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 JEN MONTHS 
 
 \M(»\(i 
 
 THE TENTS OF THE TUSKI, 
 
 WTTH rNCIDENTS OF AN 
 
 CO 
 
 13 
 
 arctic; boat expedition in search of 
 
 SIJi JOHN FRANKLIN, 
 
 X 
 
 I— 
 
 AS FAR AP THE .MACKENZIE RIVER, AISD CAPE BATHURST. 
 
 o 
 
 IS) 
 
 I— 
 z: 
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 h- 
 
 u 
 
 BY LIEUT W. II HOOPER, R.N. 
 
 
 WITH A MAP AND IU-U8TRATI0NS. 
 
 LONDON. 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET, 
 
 1853. 
 
y\''j6 
 
 238/2d 
 
 ^^^^e, u) 
 
 j+i 
 
 LONDON ; 
 mtAKMllRV AND EVANS, I'HIN I'KIU. WKH l.FKIAH-t 
 
>'5 
 t 
 
 TO 
 
 JOHN BARROW, Esq. F.R.hV 
 
 At'. &c. Ac 
 AUMIKAL'IT 
 
 My DEAR FllIKNi), 
 
 When engaged in the first Arctic expedition 
 (11. M.S. Plover, with my esteemed friend Captain 
 Moore) despatched from England in search of 
 li.M. Discovery Ships Eiebus and Terror, (under 
 command of the gallant Sir John Franklin,) in the 
 equipment of which your honoured and lamented 
 father bore so prominent a part, I wrote letters to 
 my friends relating my first impressions of scenes 
 and incidents encountered in a remote corner of the 
 globe, during a long residence amongst an almost 
 hitherto unknown race of people. You saw some of 
 these letters, (expressed approval of and interest in 
 
n 
 
 l)KT)T( ATION. 
 
 thoni, ttud suggt'stetl their being throvs i together and 
 siibnn'tted to a wider circle I'oj' periisai. Hence the 
 following piiges, by illness long dtiferred. 
 
 Not alone the strong tie of friendship induced me 
 to crave your [)erinisHion to dedicate this l)ook to 
 you, but also the knowledge that you have ever stood 
 foremost among those who, verl)fdly antl practically, 
 have evinced their conviction that it would be cruel 
 and Avould l)e a lasting disgrace to this country to 
 relinc|uish tlie search for the missing voyagers until 
 definitive iniorinatiou respecting tlicni shall be 
 obtained, or the lapse of time render an assertion 
 of their being no longer in existence no mere 
 hypothesis. 
 
 On another pk^a also J ask yon to stand sponsor 
 to my literary babe (and herein I feel assured I speak 
 for many of those who, like m\self, have wantlered 
 amid the stern and eliilliiig regi(»ns of the North). 
 There can be few " Arctic men " who will not unit(> 
 Avith me iii earnest neknowledgment of yonr ever 
 willing aid (not the less energeti<' because unob- 
 
 .i 
 
I 
 
 UI-JJK ATION. 
 
 vu 
 
 trnsivdy (exerted) towards tlu'ir pMi'ticidar wflfMre, as 
 u'oU ns lo the iwoTc general turf ho ranee ot' the 
 sehcnies of humanity in winch they were engaged, 
 and tlie gn^ai exertuws you have gone through, 
 
 You are well aware that J have always entertained 
 the most sanguine views with regard to the discovery 
 ships; and that, notwithstanding nearly eight years 
 liave elapstul since tidings were received, I still see 
 no reason to despair. A mass of evidence is before 
 us* to show that the Polar regions abound in animal 
 life : the eases of four Russian sailors who spent six 
 years on Sjutzbergen^ 1748-1), and that of Sir rlohn 
 Ross and i)arty, who were four years icr-bonnd, 
 aftord j)recedcnts for the existence of tJie party now 
 sought tor ; and when we consider moreover that 
 only the mere portals have yet hci'i? passed, and 
 scaiccily the threshohi (;ntered uooii of that vast 
 unknown region, in fo//j part of whu h it is possible 
 tht^ missing voyagers may b(^ detained, wv may relieve 
 ourselves from fear of a charge of unreasonableness 
 or ol)stinacy in the persistence of earnest /fojjf> that 
 
 * Wrangell, Anjou, Puny, Uiciiiu-dson, eetoriiiaiui, &(;. 
 
 -I 
 
^y UEUKATION. 
 
 tluiir t'HiiuliC8 — whosi; sjid susjh'Uhc hII iiiusl deeply 
 coinmisinilo— their native country, and tlie entire 
 civilised world, will yet welcome with triuisports of 
 delight the return of at Uiu.^t ii portion of the veteran 
 wanderers. 
 
 With sincerest regard and estet^ni, 
 
 I am yours faithfully, 
 
 W*' irULME HOOPEK 
 
 London, Miv/ 1, ISriS. 
 
 \ 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 ■«. — 
 
 (JIIAPTEK 1 
 
 Long iibsoncti of tlic "Erebus" ami '' Terror."— Oonsideratiou of 
 (^ontingt'iicies, and PIsuih for Relief.— H.M.S. " i .vor." Com- 
 
 uiandor Mooro Suik for BohringM Slraita— Arrive nt Saudwich 
 
 FBlandb. Domjription of Honolulu.— Its (nhabitants. - Hcaiitiful 
 Night Snene.- Departure— Passage to Behriiig's Straits.- Aleutian 
 Islands. -liussiau Discoveries. — St. Lawrouco Island. —Adverse 
 Winds and Currents.- -Tchutskoi Nosa - The Tchiitaki 
 
 I'ilRC 
 
 ClIAPTEK II. 
 
 Notices of Visits to Tohutski.-Cook and Billings, &c. - Wniiigiill'H 
 
 Laments. — Paucity of Information. First Coinmuuication with 
 
 Tchutski.- iiudicroua Mistake rospecting Sex. —Attempts at Con- 
 versation.— \ iwit the Shore. - Seo real Women. Delectable Repast. 
 —First Theft.— Council of Officers.— Curious Hut— Thermometer 
 .lack. -Gale.- Detention of Natives. — Their Feast. —Tohutaki 
 Honour. Move into Winter (iuartorn. -First Visit to Natives.— 
 An interestiir^' Infant. — Funny Fiddler.— The Shocp,— The House,. 
 First Irapressions.— The Ma.squcrade.~Tho Missionary.— The 
 Drama 
 
 la 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Tueki not Tchutski.-- Tuski, Proper and Alien : their Differeuce.— 
 Language. Description.— Rosomblancn to Chinese.— Conjectiu-es 
 — Difficulty of Discrimination. - A Trip. - Sledges. - Dogs.- Huts. 
 —Furniture.— Utensil* 3,3 
 
fdNTRNTfi. 
 
 CHAl'TKIl IV. 
 
 Putfll 
 
 KuyKwnii. A Timkl Hoiwo. - Riitlur too Warm. — A Holii-f. A 
 
 Dt'lunii)!!. ■ Mugio luiil Mii.-tic ' ' --Miiow Stonn. — Twn j^ootl Kiiciiilr., 
 
 - I'mt Kininii. -liititimcy with Niitiven. Ti>k. '\\\nV.\ Skill unci 
 
 Iiij^emiity. - The would lio Pricnt. - (JonHtitutioii »t litink. — A 
 
 tlevt'r Fellow 4H 
 
 t'HAl'TKIl V. 
 
 Wolcomo little StiwiKor. — A iiifciry ('IiristiiiOH. — A fhristciiing. — 
 A Visit from llio AriBtocnicy. Ati anci<'iit, Two. —A ciiiiuy 
 lad, Kiioch. ■ Mit<H Propriety, Monco. Miyo l:i IV'tito. Tho 
 Diplouiutp, AkouU. liclcontii tlio (.'k'\or.-— A t'luld of Fortiiiu-, 
 Motni tho Slow. - Ueiudeor, a Talileau.- A I'litriarch, MouKJcoyali. 
 - Yaiiodigiili the (Jood. — Tho Fiioiul, Ahinolt'cn. -Tho Vvt, Kii 
 ooiip-uh. ■ A <|U<;or follow, (Jimlooyah. -■ Attah tho Knovviiii;; . 
 
 (12 
 
 CHAI'TER VI. 
 
 Friends. — PresentB.— Tuski PrefereneoH. — A Ld-loi'ii). - Tho Tuski 
 Diiudy. — A Stato Visit. — Cnrioua DancOH. — Tho OMost Inhabitant. 
 — The Iicad. - Now Ideiw - Wouiair. — Aiipearantft* of the Ccumtry. 
 -A Chief's Varaug.— Tho Sen ..... 80 
 
 rHAPTEH VII. 
 
 Mooldonyah'a Hospitality, - Poly^.^amy.— The *,)iK'cn of tho ^'arnng. — 
 itcpudiation. — Tiie Contrast.-- Ronidnor and their I'^lesh — Mool 
 dooyah'8 Music- Return to tho " Plover." -Oon(.;-wy sac. Dintor 
 tioD of I'iwt Kvont.s. -Perplexity and i'ersevenince. — Tidings.-— 
 Return to tho isliip . . . .... 
 
 l"8 
 
 CHA1'TEJ{ VIII. 
 
 .fourncy towanlrt F.nst Cape. — Arrangement of Villages. NotOBsary to 
 
 travel with Dogs.- J'reparation.s. • Deceit. Cc>.stiiinB for Travelling. 
 
 • Had Wcathei . f^'hango Court-e. Noowook,- A new T.j^to of 
 
 Fish. Tiliayteheen.- Modes of killing Seals.- The Snow Storm. 
 
 --The Polka .... .... Ill 
 
CONTKNTM. 
 
 XI 
 
 (HAI'TMH in: 
 
 I'.KO 
 
 Woiniiu'M (,'nro. The itiixitiii* (JuiiioH, A soK.inii (.Vroinony. — Pro 
 loiiK«>l Minerj aijil > now DiHUHtor 'I'l.c ImU inirm, ■ A Cruel 
 Uoee|>tioii. Tlio lii-i Ni^lit. A (JtlmioiiH Dino.dMTy.- ilo{>«' uiil 
 Dolivoraiinc. -Hun>,'or ol I •>)>,'» itH ('ounocmericei. TliirKU— Kind 
 HeocpfK.ii. Thr Tu-ikl tiiiiTiek.- Tim Hoi Si-riiig.— Now Cookery 127 
 
 CHAl'TKU X. 
 
 Way to niunago Nntivo».—Tlu: Mamcnl Magnet -(/iiit OonRwyjjac — 
 Tln> 1 ii'.si.Mf.t)<l. A i'oiiHiiH May-t'lii'i'- ■iiiiu.---'I'ii»ki Cnim-H. - Tht> 
 trial of Spp.il. Tho Wrostlctfl. A inrgo lloar-skiii. Tuaki 
 Bravery.— (JouibuU ami Murky. -Tho (Iruck CVosm.— A WiuKJon'r'H 
 Fato.-A ] UsngrofuhU) Cliefk. IUdIohs Iu«tiMi(!tioti. - A (neoo of 
 Oood lAick. -VuiitluiKiih.- Ah-mo-lotiii, A TuKk) (K«iitluTniiij -A 
 TuBki Villn.— HoHpitality .112 
 
 CHAl'TKIt \l. 
 
 S'laatrous I>oiontion.- Attoiuptt nt Instruction. -Tuetki Dplifiicy.— 
 Kniinty Kxpluiiiod.— Tho Coat, <.<( Mail -Yaiulun«ah - "Noouah- 
 jiioim. — Startling luformiitioii.- Farewell tv AhmoJueii.- -TrttBi( 
 Tidiugd. — licturii to the '• I'l.iver" , .... 15l» 
 
 CllAl'TEh Ml. 
 
 Tii.^ki l""ciist.~A TiiMki Snioki . TJio Ladifs' Privilege -Tlio 
 DiaughU Tlu' T'Ltki I'lat-'u.-. -A Siicrt'il C».roiiiotiy Tin. .Shani.iM. 
 — Deacriptiou of Uoats, Koim', Ac.-Emliroidory, Ctuviiig, \c. — 
 Firo-ihrtkiiiii? , , . . 17(i 
 
 CHAPTER xm 
 
 Mutri(ude, a Deed of Ifonor. - -Tho Brido's Departure. A Novel 
 Pnni.-liinont Snow Ulmilin-ss. Cniupanioiwhip. - Kefraction. - 
 
 (l.uiiop. Tlu! Crippliv AmuKOinentu of '"liildnja. Cutting Out, 
 
 -Cayiugliohe thoUratoful. -Tho Ungratolul atraiigor. ^iumu),iry 1S8 
 
(;()NTh;nts. 
 
 PART II 
 
 BOAT EXPEDITION. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV 
 
 Arrive in Kytzehuo Sound. — Mosquitos. — First View of Esqiiiniaux, — 
 Joined by "Jlerald' and "Nancy Dawsun." — Midnight Sun — 
 Start on :> Boat Expedition. — Visit of Esiiuiinaux. — Moor to Ire 
 Hunmiock, — F^squiuiaux Muaicand Dancing, — Threatening Attitude 
 of Natives. — Burynig Ground. — Anchor p.t Point Barrow. -Lan 
 g\iage of Signs, - -Magnetic Observations. — Description of Natives. 
 — Concert. — Oomiak. — Bury Intelligence. — Whalebone Hengo. — 
 Part from " Nancy Dawson." — Mr. Shedden 
 
 Tago 
 
 212 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Take to Whale-boats and Oomiak. — Return of Mr. Martin and larger 
 Boats tc the Ship.--Dog Sledgea — Smith's Bay. — Hoitvy Sea. — 
 Hun *''ir Shore. — Repair Damages. -Birds lu Numboiu— Colvillo 
 Shoals. — Critical position.— Throw over Provisions. — Point Borons. 
 — Amber.-- Shovel .Fack. -Attitude of Natives. — Mirage.- -JonesV 
 (slaudb. — K8([uimaux Chief fires a Musket.— Native Boats crowd 
 us. — Point Beechy.- -Visited l-y Esquimaux. — Prudential Prejiara 
 tions,- -Shovel Jack again. — Treacherous Dcmousti'ations. - Re- 
 embark Natives follow. — Return Reef -Fijo with Ball. -Con 
 struct Stockade. — Marine charges with Bayonet. — Close of the 
 
 three days' Demonstrations. Natives depart.- -Breakfast on the 
 
 Ico. -Natives reappear. — Discharge their Arrows. — Rea,sous for 
 Forbearance . . ....... 
 
 2ai 
 
 
COXTKNTsi. 
 
 xiu 
 
 OHAPTKU XVI. 
 
 PlUfe 
 
 liioii Reef. — SbuIh. — Mountains. — Ducks and Divore. — Daily Itoutine. 
 — Flaxmanw Island. — Ico. — I.argn Diil't Wood. — Bury Penunican, 
 — Dog seen,-- Native Hnt;?, — I'resents. — Ethnogniphic Distinc- 
 tions. — European Knife. — St!nd up Rockets. — Native Wonder. — 
 Oomiaks' raimic Maufpuvres. — Esquimaux Family. — Whales. — 
 Herschol Island. — Wind shifts Suddenly. — Difficulties. — Calton 
 Point. — Esquimaux biiug Vinh. — Tracking.- -Paradoxical Barrows, 
 — Land neai Sabiao Point.- Huts and Women. — Buy a Frock from 
 a Lady. — Thefts. — Compasses affected. —Api-i-oach to Mackenzie. 
 — Tracking up Eiver. — Change in Vegetation. -Bear and Deer 
 Tracks. — Erect a Cros.4. — Indian Visitor.— Peel River,— Mr. Har- 
 disty visits us. — Proceed to Fort M'Pher.'Son. — Changed Phase of 
 Existence. — Departure of Mr. inillon. — Annual Desiwtch. — Indian 
 P;unt and Decoration. — Loucheui or Quarreller.s, — liat Indians. — 
 Gluttony. — Indian Betrothals. — Forty Skins for Oni". — Indian 
 (.^ui'roacy. — Eaquirnanx and Indian Feuds . 2£ 
 
 CHAPTER XV ii. 
 
 ilorrible Esquimaux Attack.— Massacre of J^oucheux. — Indwu Bmvery. 
 — Anatomical Research, — Five Commoners make ona Chief.— 
 Mr. Peei-s' unsuccessful Mediation. — Indian instincts of Revenge, — 
 Indian Supplies.- -Leave for Fort Norman, — Indiim Guides.— - 
 Followers dog us. — Enemy captures our Stores,- Enter Mac- 
 kenzi",— Guides quit us,-- Dogs again. — Flncarnp. — Our Hut takes 
 Fire. — Pine Forests. — Ice-master frost -Intten. — Roach Fort Good 
 Hope. — Mr. Mc Beatli; liis kind Attentions. — Cent Soas Rapid. 
 — Bear River. — Burning Banks. — Reach Fort Norman. — Mr. 
 McKenzie; his Hospitality. — Salteaux' Legend of the Deluge. — 
 WolfBrothers&Co 
 
 274 
 
 CHAPTER XV I IT 
 
 Gastronomy — River Ice. — Trapping. — Start for Groat Bear Lake. — 
 Cross the Mackenzie on the Ice. — Felling Trees to encamp. — 
 Raising the Wind.- -Penetrate dense Forests. — Cross Ijakes. — 
 Cranberries, &c. — Indian Hut. — Salmon Trout, — Summary Eject- 
 nmnt. — Slave Indiana, — Indian Divorce. — Selling Wives. — Cannibal 
 Acquaintance. — Sir J. Franklin's Hut. — Dreadful Starvation. — 
 Eating an Orkney man. — Oui' Hut. — An airy Situatioa — Occasional 
 House-waijning. — Lots of Tin. — Fish and Fish with it. — Swamp 
 Tea.— -Aurora. — Literary Destitution. — Novel burial of a Brother- 
 in-law -iftii 
 
xlv 
 
 CONTKNTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX 
 
 (Jhristmaa Fe8ti%'itieH. — Parhelia. — ludiaii Exag^'eratiou. — A Regular 
 Clipper. — Sledging to Foi-t Nonnan. Starving Indians. — Indian 
 
 Theology. — Medicinu Men. Vapuur Hath, — Heating Watt^r. — A 
 
 Drone. — Diiniautiou of Tnfnnticide.— Making Med cine. ■ I'ulliag 
 a-head. — Sjiring Rets in. — Woodpeckers. — An Indian Death. — 
 Return to Now Fort Franklin. — Ravenous Petty Larceny. - Primi- 
 tive Notioui^.- -Flood.s. — Doctor Iliie. — Start for Fort Sim]iHon. — 
 Hydrodynamic J-'orenw. — Beara. — Indian Dance.-- -A Tale of Horror 
 
 P.igc 
 
 313 
 
 :'^i 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Leave Fort Simpson. — A.scont of Mackenzie. — .Receive Admiralty 
 Despatchci?. — Mr. Pullen Promoted. — Return to Fort Simjison. — 
 The "Logiin" and "Try Again." — Departure for the Sea CoaKt. — 
 Point Separation, — Tiny Tonnentora.— A diiuinutivc (loiu'mand. 
 — Re-enter the Arctic Ocean. — Garry Island. — Ice BHuk. — Pelly 
 Island. — A Change of Climate. — Discover new Islands, — An 
 E«piiinaiix Hamlet. — Vex.,»tious Impediments. — Scheme of \Kyage. 
 — Heavy Ice. — An Esquimaux Nurse.-— Capo Bathurst, meeting 
 with Ea(|uiinaux.----Th( Bear Hunt, — Progress checked by Ice.-- 
 Frieudly l>emeanour and pilfering Tendencies of E.'squimaux.— - 
 Lose Indians.- -(^ujectures. — FndianR return .... 337 
 
 m 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 ' 
 
 CHAPTER XXI 
 
 Return Voyage --Farewell to .Fsijuimaux. —A Native Swell Mobsman. 
 — -Reaufort, Pullen, and Hooper Islands. — *'Loo.\pj" Farewell.— 
 F'ort M'Phcrson.— Honihle Massacre of Esquiniau.t. -■Retlections 
 upon its prohaMo Con.soquencoe. -Ascent of Mackenzie. —Corro 
 borative CoiifeBsion of Manuel Hobert. - Arrival at Foil Simpson. — 
 Iteniarks on the late Expedition. - Airangornents for Wintering. 
 — EH'ect of Cold upon Metal. —Luxurious Diet -Ice " Sots Fast." 
 -A Narrow Escape --r>ogged Prejudices . . . 3()"J 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 New Year's Day Festival. — Cyclical Fluctuation in the Breed of 
 Rabbits. — Conj^'ctured (Causes, and Indian Su))«rstitiou thereon. 
 — Conseiiueut ElVeot upon fur-bearing Auimala, - New Mode of 
 catching Foxes. — Severity '>f Season. — Mercury metamorphosed. — 
 
0, 
 
 THE 
 
 TENTS OF THE TUSKL 
 
 CUAPTEi^ I 
 
 Long absence of the "Erctvun" aiul "Texrov." — Cou.'sitlijnitiou of Condu- 
 goncieH, and F'huis for Koliet'. — H.M.S " f'lover," Cviminau<ler Moore.- 
 
 Sails fill Uoliring's Straits. -Arrive ut S.iudwk'li JsLsiul-?. — Df^criptioQ 
 
 ofHi^uoIulu. — Its Iuhal>itai)ts.-- lUiautitul Nii3;ht fioonf. - -Deptn-ture. — 
 Pn.-sage to Uehrings Sti-aiu. - Aleiitmu .(slau'lH, — Ru.-^Kian Diacoveriesi. 
 — St, liftwreuco IslaiKl.— Adverse VViiidfl uvd Curronts. — Tchatakoi 
 No.i3,--TheT(;hut^ki. 
 
 The ntt(3ntion of the AdniiraJty liavmg been drawn 
 to tli(^ protructt;*! abstTice oi tbo two Arctic Discovery 
 Ships, "Erebus" and "Terror," which sailed from 
 I'^ngland, under the command of Sir -John ['rankUn, in 
 the s|>ring of 1845, and of which no tidings bad been 
 received, it was d(!termined in the autunni; of l'^t7, 
 after mature consideration of the opinions of those 
 most experienced in Arctic atFau-s, to despatch tiu-ee 
 cxpetUtions as early as possible in 1S4S to ilitferent 
 quarters of the frozen sea, for the piu'pose of seeking, 
 and, if necessaiy. relieving the missing voyagers. 
 
1*1, OVER S VOYAGE, 
 
 Had tiie expedition beeonie eliecked in its earlier 
 career, Sir James Ross proceeding up Davis' Straits 
 might expect to fall in with the party. Were it stopped 
 between the eastern and western chanuels leading to 
 tlie T'ohir Sea, some of Frankhn's people in that case 
 would probably be despatcliefl to the northern conti- 
 nent of America ; it was necessary, therefore, to send 
 an expedition thither; thi.s was undei-taken by Sir 
 John Richardson. A third locality remained, which 
 it would have been imprudent to neglect. Conjecturing 
 the entrance and meduim passage to the v estward to 
 have been accomplished, exit had yet to be made by 
 a region Uttle visited, of which the great opening from 
 the Nortli Pacific into the Arctic Ocean, known as 
 Belu-ing's Strait, claimed paramount attention. 
 
 For the last-named quarter H. M. S. "Plover," under 
 Commander T. E. L. Moore (an officer peculiarly fitted 
 for this charge by his previous experience in Arctic 
 and Antarctic travel), set sail from Plymouth on the 
 30th January, 1848. 
 
 I do not desire to enter here upon a recital of 
 either the fitting out or our voyage through regions 
 interesting indeed, but already well known. Suffice 
 it to say that after touching at Madeira and the 
 Falklands, rounding Cape Horn and visiting Callao, 
 we arrived at Honolulu, the capital of Woahu, 
 
SANDWICH ISLANDS. 
 
 8 
 
 the chief of the Sandwich Islands, on the 23rd of 
 August, 1848, the voyage havhig been greatly pro- 
 tracted by cahns and contrary winds, and the very 
 indifferent sailing quahties of our vessel. This 
 town presents from the outer anchorage the most 
 pictures(]ue type of a tropical village in all its loveli- 
 ness. It extends along the sea-shore for about tvro 
 miles; the houses are grouped in small clusters, 
 surrounded by luxuriant plantations of sugar-cane, 
 banana, and otlier fructiferants of torrid climes, 
 surmounted by the lofty palm. 
 
 With the exception of the pubhc edifices and a few 
 of the better class of houses, which are built of brick, 
 stone, or even slabs of coral, the habitations are loi liie 
 most part only rude huts, yet neat and cleanly-looking 
 from a distance : fiom their sombre hue, they present a 
 fine contrast to the varied tints of tree and herbage here 
 exhibited. I thought it a perfect paradise. The sweet 
 tale of Paul and Virginia, with the description of their 
 home, came across my memory, and I pictured their 
 land to be such an one as this. 
 
 In the bay were numerous diminutive fishing-boats, 
 
 each with an outrigger to prevent it from overturning, 
 
 so narrow and frail are they. This curious balance is 
 
 composed of a branch of considerable thickness, with 
 
 a straight stem about five feet in length, terminating 
 
 b2 
 

 4 
 
 SANDWrCir ISLANDS NATIVES, 
 
 in a flatttinod fork, which ovor and again, as the wee 
 shell rocks to and fro, dips in the water and steadies 
 her motion ; and in tliis way u ith paddle or sail, or 
 both, they skim along over the waves. 
 
 The residents at llonohihiare princif)ally Americans, 
 who engross raueh of the trade ; th(!re are also a few 
 Chinese shops, where this antirpiated people may be 
 seen in their national dres.- and surrounded by their 
 nati\e pnjduets — JapaiuKnl-ware, cra|>es, silks, ivory 
 carved-work, &e., for wliich they lim* a ready sale. 
 TluM'e are several eh iureh(.'S and meeting-houses ; also 
 one or tAvo large inamifactories and warehtaises, conspi- 
 enoMs from their size conijiared witli the surrounding 
 buildings. On the right of tlu^ town is tlie harbour, 
 in which were many vessels ; among others, sc\eral 
 American whalers refitting lortlieir return home; and 
 the old "Hasilisk" lies here dismantled and deserted. J 
 vegardcd her witli great inti^rest, remembering themany 
 important matters in which she look her part, more 
 particularly in tli(! French aft'air with Queen Poniare. 
 
 Honolulu cannot certainly be lauded for cleanliness 
 nor tlic regularity of its construction : dirt abundantly 
 displays itscilf, and in the streets we were enveloped 
 in clouds of dust. The natives appear finely-limbed, 
 muscular, and of good stature, Th<; young peoph^ have 
 handsome and somewhat intellectual countenances, with 
 
FJSIIINO HI NIGHT. 
 
 8j)K!iKlid eyt!s, Jnrge and sparkling, having the fire and 
 (lark hue of the Indian ; their complexions are of the 
 richest d(;e[) hrown, some approaching copper colour;, 
 and the skin so clear, that the l)iood can be seen 
 mantling in their cheeks. Old age seems to fcrausmute 
 all their charms into ugliness, tor the few aged persons 
 I saw were mostly hideous. At night we wire 
 delighted in viewing the natives fishing l<y torch- 
 light: ni the frail canoes I have l)efore noticed brands 
 composed of the fibrous husk of the (!Ocoa-nut emitted 
 a lurid g\nre, and btung in grt>at numbers and constant 
 motion imparted a Salvator-Rosa-like ett'ect to the 
 sc(;ne; the softeiu'd gleam upon the shore was very 
 beautiful, throwing up the njore prtmrinent objects, 
 whose broad shadows, rendered dee})er and more 
 perl'ei't by the l)laze, mingled with and were lost in the 
 gloom of the background. 
 
 It was intended that in accordance with our instruc- 
 tions we should have met U. M. S. "Herald," which 
 was to co-operate with us, at Panama, but the plan of 
 our route having been changed we had not visited that 
 port, and hoj)ed to have found her here ; in this 
 expectation we were, however, disappointed ; anrl after 
 obtainnig a plentiful supply of tropical fruits and 
 vegetables, pioceeded alone on the i25th, trusting 
 to fail m with her in Kotzebue Souml. 
 
DKl'AimRE FftOM SAM)\VICH ISLANDS. 
 
 f 
 
 Having now quitted our last touching point, all our 
 attontiou was directod to prf'})aring I'or our winter 
 sojourn. W'urni clolliing was distributtjd ; cloaks 
 and socks oj" the fur-seal skin nnade nj), and ice gear 
 titled and inspected, in anticipation of boat expe- 
 ditions crews were appointed, and their several 
 supplies apportioned, strong hopes beuig entertained 
 of doing sonietlung before being frozen in. 
 
 iconic, line meteors were seen early in September, 
 and l)la( k giul aiul whale birds observ ed n\ eonsulerable 
 numbt^rs : a |)lover flew on board, a goodly omen, and 
 dolphins gathered round the vessel. On the Uth we 
 saw stormy j)etrels and svn swallows , and the former, 
 true to their poj)ular reputation, proved hai'biugers 
 of a heavy gali' T\u weather moderathig, the 
 nautilus was seen outspreading liis tiny sail. 
 
 Towards tjic end of the mouth the preisence of 
 numerous birds, as well as (puuitities ol sea weed, 
 indicated the proxhuity of laiul ; on the 27th, at no 
 great distance from Madeuoior CoppcT Island, — with 
 the exception of Hehring's Island, the westernmost of 
 the group,-- v\e passed b(3tween the Aleutian or Fox 
 Islands, and the main-land of Kamtchatka. 
 
 As tliese islands were among the tirst-fruits of the 
 <liscovery from tlje west of the western coast of the 
 North Ameri('an continent, it may not be inappropriate 
 
 
BEHRINGS KXrLDrVlO.N. 
 
 7 
 
 to introduce here some slight account of their history 
 and native inha])itants. 
 
 The sagacious mind of Peter the Great having been 
 stinndated by accounts collected from Kamtchadals, 
 and transmitted to St. Petersburgli, concerning the 
 vicinity of the north-eastern point of Asia to the 
 north-western angle of America, devised an expe- 
 dition to ascertain theu* correctness ; this, however, 
 was delayed, by his death ; but the Empress 
 Catharine, in accordance with his written instructions, 
 immediately on ascending the throne, despatched 
 Vitus Beering, or, as he is more commonly called, 
 Behring, a native of Denmark in the Russian service, 
 to obtain information on this point. On the 14th of 
 July, 1728, he left the river Kamtchatka in the 
 " Fortune," with two lieutenants and forty men ; and 
 having coasted the Kamtchadal, Koriak, and Tchutskoi 
 countries as far as 67" IS' north, returned,, liaving 
 unawares passed but a very few miles through the 
 Straits which now bear his name. This unconsciousness 
 is rather curious, as he had some intercoiu-se with people 
 in their boats, who would seem to have been Tchutski, 
 who inhabit a country on the coast of Asia, within 
 thirty miles of the American continent; they, however, 
 informed him that their nation, although travelling 
 with rcin-dcer as far as the Kovynia, or Kolyma, 
 
ALEUTIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 ' ' H 
 
 
 In 
 hi 
 
 which runs into the Northern Ocean, had never 
 atteinpti'd any passage by sea. IJe therefore returned 
 home disappointed in the object of his search. 
 
 llv again nnide the attempt in 1721), but failed 
 from adverse winds. No furthiT effort was made 
 till 1741, when Behring again sailed with Tschirikof 
 on theii' notable cnter[)rise in their two vessels, the 
 "St. Peter" and "St. Paul;" and steering to the E.S.E., 
 aiul S.E. by E., reached the continent of America 
 CMi the loth of July, 'rhi; precise positioh of the 
 spot has been mucli (jontested, hut there is good 
 reason to suppose he landed in the immediate n(;igh- 
 bourhood of Kayes Island, lat. (50° N., long. 144° 'MY 
 W. It again seems strange that Behring should thus 
 have proceeded so far to the east witlimit reaching land, 
 as the whole range of Aleutian or Fox Islands, with 
 the promontory of Alaska, lay directly in the course 
 between the points of his departure from Asia and 
 arrival in America, extending in a scattered line from 
 America to within ten degrees of the Kamtchatkan 
 coast. In the beginning of September, on thcur return 
 voyage, the expedition ♦ell in with the chain of the 
 Fox Islands, and on the Cth of November landed on 
 Behring's Island, at first supposing it to be the main- 
 land of Avjitcha; here they sutFered great misery and 
 sickness, and on the 8th of November Behring died. 
 
ALEITIAN ISLANIIEKS. 
 t 
 
 The iminmsr (jiuuitity of iinimiil life \vhi(;h then 
 t'xislo«l on those islimds, nmy \)v guilicrcd iVom tho 
 fact thai on one short <'\|)nlition in I 750, tl»<' 'iirg*-' 
 nunihers of 1 7"^ I sea otters, 7 20 hlue I'oxes, and 
 840 young soa bears were taken, and thi'ir furs and 
 skins carried back by one vessel to the Uussian 
 territoi'ies. 
 
 The inhabitants are described by tlie admirable 
 and sagacious StelK-r, who acconipanietl Ik'luing, as 
 mostly young or Juiddie-agtMl, of moderate stature, 
 but tol(.i'ably welb|)ro[)orti()ned ; tlieir anus and logs 
 very Heshy, their hair straight and of a glossy 
 blackiKfss, tlui nose Hat l)ut not liroad or large, the 
 eyes black, the lips thick and turned upward ; necks 
 short, shoulders broad, and liodies thick but not 
 corpulent. They wore shijts made of the intestines 
 of whales ; boots and breeches of seal-skin, stained a 
 brown red with alder l)ark ; and had long iron knives, 
 apparently tlair own manufacture (though he throws 
 some doubt on this point later in his narrati\ej. They 
 made hats of bark which were coloured red and green, 
 and ornamented with feathers and grass , and bored 
 holes in various parts of the face, in which they 
 instrted bones and stones. They had little or no 
 beard. 
 
 They seemccl to migrate from island to island, 
 
I 
 
 'f^i! 
 
 ) 
 
 10 A1,KITIAN IHI.ANDKIIS. 
 
 niul mmiy to tin; inmnluml of Auirrk'H, am\ were 
 ac'custoiiM'J to tuttoo tlicir taces vvilb ,i red-hot 
 rR'i'fllc. 
 
 Otclicrediii, wlio nt'ulc a Itiigtlu'iu'd visit in J 770, 
 descnlHS the Fox Lslmidis as gciKMiill)' rocky, but 
 destitute oC wood, and aboundinjx with rivulets and 
 liilvtN uhicli coritnni \ery Httle fish , the [)opuIation, 
 free and innnerous ; Uving prinripally in holes 
 dn<^ ni fliP earth, and subsisting on aoa animals and 
 small sliell-tish, with the wild lily-nxtt as their 
 greatest luxury 
 
 Dr. Ijatliam. in Ins " Varieties of Man," asserts that 
 the inlmbiiants ol these islands, including Behring's, 
 Copper, Kat, /Vndreanowsky, and Prebiilowiini, are 
 all of r'st|uunau\ origin • this he principally infers 
 from the radical constiuctiou of the language. 
 
 To Captain Cook, our own enterprising navigator, 
 belongs the merit of the true diseoveiT of the Straits 
 between the two ctmtinents, although, with his usual 
 good taste and modesty, he gave to them the name 
 of Behring, in honour of, as he supposed, the first 
 European who ever navigated those seas. There is now, 
 however, little ground for reasonable doubt, although 
 the fact long remained involved in obscurity, t.ha' to 
 Simeon Deshnew, or Deshnef, may be attributed tlie 
 first passage of them by civilised man. Iseai Ignatiew, 
 
 5k 
 
 i# 
 
 1 il 
 |!i 
 
VISITS TO BEHKINQS STKAITH. 
 
 II 
 
 who i.s \\\v Hrst |n!rson rtrordrd to luuc attoinpted 
 tlic iiu\i^at:()ii oC the I' dnv Ocean, sailed from 
 Kolymsk. east of Kolyma, in 1(1 K» , but only reaiclied 
 Tt'lmim Hav. lie obtained some walru.s teeth by 
 barter with the 'IVhutski dwelling there, and described 
 them as a warlike people. His jiccounts induced the 
 Fedot Ale\iew, agJMit to a Moscow merchant, to make 
 an expedition in June, KM-?, from the Kolymu, 
 designing to reach the Anadyr. Attached to his 
 mission was the Cossack Simeon Deshncw, or Deshncf, 
 as govenuuent representative. DitHculties obliged 
 them to return; ami in 104S a second expedition was 
 commenced, consistuig of seven vessels, of which four 
 were probal'ly lost, as further accounts have reached 
 us of only three. Deshnew seems to have liad a 
 favourable season , anci, passing Chelagskoi Noss, made 
 his way (eastward and to tlie south, until he reached 
 the Gulf of Anadyr lie does not appear, however, 
 to have had any knowledge of the j)roximity of the 
 coast of America. With these few remarks k^t us 
 now resume our own voyage. 
 
 We steered north-west for the island of St. 
 LiiAvrence, which lies in the fair way to the entrance 
 of Behriug's Straits ; and struck soundings on the 
 r)tl» of October in 150 fathoms; on the same date 
 we tirsl experienced snow. A large nmnl)(!r of 
 
12 
 
 I' ROC E ED NO RT H W A Rl ) 
 
 gccs(' wore seen flying to the southward, a notable 
 token of the winter setting in. 
 
 Headwinds and strong currents noAv much impeded 
 our progicss, and we only sighted the island of St. 
 liavvTcnce early in the morning of l.:ith October: 
 dnrnig the night of the 15th, we drifted so far to 
 }he north-west, that at three a.m., in the morning, 
 the coast of Asia, near the Tchutskoi Noss, was dis- 
 covered, witli huts and signs of life visible on the 
 shoi'c. Here was a deep indentation, witli tlie 
 appearance of a river, which boats vAcn- despatclied 
 to examine. Meanwhile, the natives wvvv evi(knitly 
 not uncouseious of oiu' presence , nmch bustle wasi 
 obserxable among them, and after considerable 
 running to and fro, they launched four boats, oiul 
 pulled t«jwards us, with signs of trepidation. Their 
 diitidence being at length overcome, they i)a(ldled 
 alongside, and climbed on board. 
 
 This was our lirst interview with th( Tdiutski, a 
 people of whom less is knoMii than any on the face 
 of the hidjitabU; glolu; (if we except, perhfips, some 
 of the trjl)es m tiie interior of Africa; ; and whose 
 manners and appearance are so singulfu' as to deserve 
 a more jiarticular nolici^ hereafter. 
 
 'M 
 
 m 
 
 
 
%^ 
 
 C'HArTKxf? 11. 
 
 :f 
 
 Notices of ^'li'it! to Tcbvitski.--f;ook and Billings, &c. — WmngfiU's 
 Lnmonts. — f'aticity of mforniation. — Pirefc conimiinicntion with 
 Tclnttrtki. - Liu1it'i'oU(<Mititiiko rcpixirting Sex. • Attciiijits at ("onvor.ia- 
 titMi.-- Visit the Shore. --See real VV,.irncn.- Delectable Keua^t.- First 
 Tlioft— ("ouncil of Officei-s.- Oiirioiia Hut. — Thcrmometor ffack.— 
 dale Dcttfiition of Natives --Tlieir Feast.— Tchutski Houonr. ■ Move 
 into Winlfi (^uurtorb.-- First V'i.sit to Natives. — An interesting Infant. 
 — I"\inny Fiddler. -The Sheep.- -The House. —First ImpressiouH. — 
 The Ma8<|uorade.-~Tho MisBiojiaiy. — The Drama. 
 
 A ( oMHiN'ATioN ot' untowarti rirrumstaiices hnd 
 (li'iNcn iii^ 071 a coast aii<i funoiig a people rarely 
 visited. Cook, ranking only secoml to Coliinibiis 
 among navigators, was the first who toneliccl npoii 
 tins shore, in 1 77S ; liis was ))ut a %ing visit, as he 
 merely landed for about a couple of lioiu's near the 
 'rchut^ikoi Noss, and then rc-cndjarked nevcu- to 
 return, although doubtless his interiiion vA^as to have 
 niade further ac([uaintance with m> interest nig a coutitry 
 Helning, in 1 728, conimunieated with the peo])le of 
 this coast, in latitude 04'^ :W north, near the 
 Tcluitskoi N«»ss. The eight natives who vi.sited hiiu 
 in a baidar, stated that the coast trcncK-d to the 
 
14 
 
 VISITS OF TOOK, ETC., TO TCHlTSkl. 
 
 westward, and spoke of an island not far distant, which 
 ho discover(,'d two days after, and called St. LawnMice j 
 bnt neither he nor Lieutenant Synd, avIio hi 1767 
 visited this island, and was close to the main, 
 seeni to liave thought it worth while to land or 
 mnkv further inquiry respecting this isolated nation. 
 Billings, an officer in the Russian service, who had 
 been with Cook in his \oyage to tlie North Pacitic, 
 anchored in the Bay of St. Lawrence (not St. Lawrence 
 Island) on the 4th August, 1700; he does not appear 
 to have made any lengthened sojourn, nor to have 
 endeavoured to learn much respecting the people , 
 l>ut proceeded at once to the River Kolyma, a journey 
 which occupied six months, and thence to St. Peters- 
 burgh. We hav(^ lt;arned little concerning the Tchutski 
 by his experience. Simeon Novikof and Ivan Baccof, 
 proceeding in 1740 from Anadyrsk to Kamtchatka 
 by sea, saw a few Tcluitski U])on the heights of their 
 coast on the gulf. 
 
 These notices appear to comprehend n(!arly all 
 that is known of ^\m people, until the expedition 
 of Wrangell, in i^'21, when Matiuschin gained 
 sufficii^nt casual experience of them at the fair 
 of C>stronowie and elsewhere, to create in his own 
 mind and that oi Baron Wrangell an intense desire to 
 extend their knowledge of that extraordinarj race. 
 
 liii 
 
 I 
 
LrUlCROLS ERBORS AND CONVERSATION. 
 
 15 
 
 The ))ages of tlie latter are fiill of lament at his not 
 liaviiig sucTeeded ni his atteinpts to visit them. 
 Since liis joiimcy no new acconnt has been received ; 
 and the further information which 1 was able to 
 collect will, therefore, not b. unacceptable. Our 
 ac([iiaii)tance with the Tchutski during our stay on 
 tlieir shores was so interwoven w ith our own existence 
 and its occupations, that it would he matter of great 
 dilhciilty to describe minutely, apart from some 
 account oi ourselves, such of their manners and habits 
 as came under our notice. 
 
 We hud at Hrst considerable doubts as to the sex 
 of our visitants ; all were clad in loose hooded over- 
 shirts of skin, to keep them dry ; and, being destitute 
 of Ix'ards, might well be mistaken for tlie tender sex ; 
 but we concluded that the party was of a mixed 
 nature, this opinion having its foundation, probably, 
 in the fact that some had theii" heads partially shaved. 
 Many endeavours wore nuide to establish verbal inter- 
 course. Parry's vocabul'vy, and the few words 
 mentioned by Wrangell, were essayed, but all to no 
 purpose ; they continually repeated " tam," after- 
 wards found to mean "no;" and our expressions of 
 vexation at the ill success of our eftbrts sounded, in 
 many instances, like their word of dissent. So we 
 had recourse to signs, and succeeded adnurably, and 
 
i '^ 
 
 10 
 
 VISIT THE SHORE. 
 
 I I 
 
 
 speedily got on a very good footing. The tiddlo was 
 produced for tlieir aniiisement, and in n^turn Ave were 
 regaled by tito monotonous beatnig of a species of 
 drum, whieh they had lirought with tliem. 
 
 Two of their numbei , who seemed more intelligent 
 tlian the rest, and took the most promment share in 
 their doings, and were, therefore, conjectured to be 
 chiefs, informed us, by signs, of a convenient harbour 
 close to our])osition, and of tlieir desire that we should 
 enter it. To asceitain the accuracy of their report, 
 Captain Moore sent me on shore to examine, the two 
 natives before alluded to accompanying me in tlie boat 
 without the slightest trepidation. By their direction, 
 1 landed on the beach near their huts, and, surmount- 
 ing the shingly bank which liad been formed by the 
 ice forcing up the shoj'e, b<.'came in an instant the 
 centre of attraction to a varied group of men, women, 
 f'hildren, and dogs. It was now easy to discover that 
 wc had as yet seen only men, the women were readily 
 distingnished by the ditfertsnce of their costume and 
 other details. Having made tlie necessary ol)servations, 
 1 tools leave of my companions, and returned (o the 
 shij). 
 
 On the morrow natives agam visittul us , and one 
 of those whom ue hail yesterday suppo.sed to be 
 chiefs, and who informed us that his name was Akoull, 
 
 ^^f 
 
 VA 
 
 III I 
 
 IIM 
 
 ■ t; 
 
 :i 
 
 a 
 
 I 
 
rriK TKKAT 
 
 17 
 
 Jissistt'd in piloting US' into llic imrl'our befort' 
 indirjitcd, in the entrance to wincli we ancliored 
 under the lee of a spit projeetuiti in u eurve nearly 
 half a mile from the ?hore. The temperature bcTanie 
 very nuieh reduced durhig the rnght. and iee formed 
 around the ship sufiieient to <nit through a lead line 
 which hung from the "chains." 
 
 On the 1 Stli the hru'ljour was covered with a crust, 
 of ice uhjch only nu'lted away in the noon-day huh. 
 We w(;re again visited hv the natives, among whom 
 were now some women ; and on their makiug signs 
 ior scanething to eat. one of the liidies was pi-esentcd, 
 as a jest, with n small tallow candle, called a purser's 
 ili)). It was, notwithstanding, a very pleasant joke to 
 the damsel ; who delihertitt^ly munched it up uith 
 evident relish, and finally drew the wick between her 
 set tetith to clciU' oil anv remahiing morsels of fnt. 
 This wns rathei'too niiich tor some of ns, unaccustomed 
 to such sights , but )t was a mere trifle to scenes 
 often afterwards witnessed. 
 
 At night the Jirst a[)pearance oi Aurora Bort^ahs 
 was presented at N.VV, bv W., with ra\s con- 
 verging to the /emth. \VV were engaged on the 
 iVHh in a search for water, but tlu' livulets were 
 already fro/eu up . W(' weri' consequently ohiigeil to 
 Hll our tanks with ice The natives bemg. as usual, ou 
 
 
 
18 
 
 roNSlII.TATION THE rillFK. 
 
 iMi 
 
 !)oar(!, ojio of tlu'iuniiy thermometers was missed, and 
 lijid evidently been purloined by one of onr visitors. 
 
 '[%' s;tronLr sul verse winds liaving eontiiiiied 
 liitherti); on tfie 2(M.li the Captain called a eoimeii of 
 ottieers. who, after much deliberation, reconmiended 
 thfit, nnkiss a favouriible change of cireiinistaiicos slionld 
 oeeiu' siiflieicnt to warrant the expectation of reaching 
 Kotzebne Sound by the :?f.)th, the " Plover" should 
 wi]it(U'in the commodious hai'bonr Avhere she then was. 
 
 The natives were informed of the loss of the tlwiruKv. 
 iiicter, and on whom oiu* suspicions rested Parties 
 Avere sent on sliore at the sj)it to take observations, 
 and to cut turf wherewith to el«' out the winter's 
 fuel. Here, ])esides fragments of bones of Avliales, we 
 discovered a winter hut or vourt, niucli dila])idated, 
 and aj)])arently long abandoned ; it was constructed 
 partly by excavation ; the upper part appi ared to be of 
 nuid and shiugli' ; around the interior, v inch formed 
 an irregular ellipse, seats had been cut m the sod. 
 
 ()n the 2;^nd (Sumhiy) IJiviue Service was per- 
 formed The natives were allowed to come on 
 board, but biu'termg was proliibited, and they were 
 made to nnderstand, as well as might be, that one 
 day in seven was set asi<le foi" rest and relaxation. 
 Tliis they seemed to comprehmd, but were, neverthe- 
 less, greatly astonished. The thermouieter was 
 
 i I 
 
 i i 
 
•rtho 
 
 'M 
 
 WMS 
 
 NATIVFS REMAIN OX BOARD THKIR FK AST, 10 
 
 restored to-day by the wife of the reputed Uiief, who 
 thereiijion i-eceived from our witty tars the cogTiouien 
 of " Therinouicter Jack." Duriiij? the niglit the 
 wind increased to a gale, Avhich, however, did not 
 deter the natives from their accustomed visit. They 
 brought aeeounts that the upper harbour w\'is freezing 
 over. In the afternoon the wind and sea became so 
 boisterous, that our visitors wcra unable to return to 
 shore ; their boats were lioisted up, and pre])arations 
 made for tlieir accommodation during the night. 
 
 It was of (!ours(! necessary to provide them with food ; 
 and as tliey did not lik(^ our usual diet, culinary in- 
 vention was brought to bear upon the subject most 
 successfidly. We had on board a large pitch-kettle 
 Avhich fortunately had not yet been in use ; in this 
 were boiled together oatmeal, biscuit, and fat, which 
 h\tter the episode of the tallow candle convinced us 
 would be appreciated. The mixture vvas distributed to 
 groups and individuals in all the; vessels we could 
 muster, and was devoiu'cd with manifest appreciation, 
 the diligence of the partakers only lessening upon an 
 approach to satiety. Immediately upon the conclusion 
 of the meal, pij)es were universally produced and filled, 
 fire struck with flint and stt^el, and a smoke taken by 
 each, after which the demand for tm-tin-mee-mil 
 (fresh water) btcame ginieval, which we had great 
 
 c 2 
 
iiO 
 
 NATIVK Ml H\V. 
 
 t 
 
 if 
 
 (litliciiliy ill lull)' stitisfying, lor I'iich person took such 
 iiii cnoniious (Iniuglit, th>it uv, wliicli we were now 
 iisiim, eoiild not he nieltecl suffieieiitly fast VVr 
 had HO \i\v^v i\ iiuri)l)('V of visitunts on 1)oac(l tliul it 
 wonlfl 'uive been inconvenient, as well as imprudent, 
 t(» lia\e pt^nnitted tliein to remain l)elow during the 
 night, wliieli, moreover, was not necessaiy to people 
 of such liardy halfit^ ; the greater number enwrapped 
 themselves in the spare sails brought on deek for that 
 puipt)se, and a few stowisd tlninselves in the lianmiock- 
 nettings, wliiel) were capacious, and pn^ectetl by cloths 
 of tarpaulin, ujaking a very snug restiug-place. Our 
 arms were of course kept in readiness, and the pistols 
 loaded . but these |.recautions, with nidailijig vigilance 
 on the part of the watch, were all that was considered 
 necessary 
 
 1'Ire our guests disposed thenjselves to rest, 
 much bartermg was carrier I on, besides nuitual 
 endeavours at amusement; the fiddle, again put 
 in n-ipusition, was a prolific source of delight; oiu^ 
 or two of the strangers evinced souie slight prac- 
 tical knowledge of its use, but uniformly produced 
 only a monotonous succession of souuds. Vocal 
 disphiys of a similar description were also offered ; these 
 were given in a low crooning tone, the compass being 
 generally very limited, though occasional notes showed 
 
 i i ; 
 
 llli 
 
 f 
 
ITIU'TSKI IIONOtJH, 
 
 21 
 
 
 i\i\ ability \'\,i- greater mngc. Wo were nuu'li uttvacted 
 and amused by their expressions of ttstoiiislm»ei»t at any 
 new wonder. Kah — ksth — kuh — was the uinv^ersal 
 ejacidation of surprise ; and kee — kee — kCk kCk kee, 
 rapidly uttered, informed us that an unfortunate lady 
 had burnt her fingers with her hot pannikin of food. 
 
 T made an essay this night u[)on the honesty 
 (»f our fi'ien<ls ; a tine youiig man natiunl Ahnioleen, 
 l)elonging t m a family which pleased me more than any 
 of the rest, sold nie his outer-coat of reindeer skin ; 
 hut fearfid that ho would feel the loss of his garment 
 during the night, I restored it to him, making signs 
 that it vv^as to be retumed on the morrow. Busy next 
 day with my duties 1 did not heed the approaching 
 de))arture of my favourites, and am delighted to record 
 that my friend, as 1 am proud, from after experience, 
 to call him, sought me out and delivered up tlie 
 i)orrowed dress with many signs of aeknowledgnunit 
 for the favour. This fixed him in my esteem, nor had I 
 ever afterwards cause; to alter my opinion of his pro})ity. 
 
 On the 25th, all hope of making further progress 
 this season benig abandoned, the ship was moved 
 further up the harbour, opposite to the small 
 village of which we supposed Akoull to be the chief. 
 At night the sky, though cloudy, was curiously 
 illumined, supposed to be caused by the Aurora. 
 

 
 MOVK INTO HKIITII AM> IKilfSI', IN. 
 
 ■, ^ 
 
 I : ;f 
 
 On tlin C>»tli, the slii]) was tinally plucecl in licr 
 intended winter's position, luid the work oi'"stri|)ping" 
 conununrcd. Warping into l)L'rtli was a severe fore- 
 taste of winter's incleniency ; the ttiinperatun; was 
 at + 2."^' ; the water froze on tl c hawsers as tliey came 
 in, nor was the boat-work necessary in hiying ont the 
 'Uicliors more jileasant, as the wind bknv freshly, and 
 spray drenched those engaged. 
 
 Navi<^ation and seamanship were now to be 
 dis})ensed with for awliik^ ; we had before ns a 
 long and severe whiter to be ptissed in an icc-bonnd 
 shij), and we prepared accordingly to rendcv onr 
 residence as comfortable and little irksome as might 
 be. The sails were " unbent," dried, and stowed 
 away, yards and lesser spars got on deck, leaving only 
 the lower masts standing, the lower rigging being 
 secured aroinid them to be clear of \'2 housing, which 
 shortly enclosed the uj)per deck. Parties were sent on 
 shore to build a small house and cut turf. Desirous 
 of early and detinitely establishing among our new 
 friends a wholesome know ledge of onr power, \\ ithont 
 displaying a hostile or precautionary intention, the 
 pistols Avere discharged at a mark, and the I2-pounder 
 howitzer, which was mounted on the forecastle, loaded 
 with grape, and fired jit a mnnber of seals which lay 
 on the land ice at the head of the harbour. 
 
 I 
 
FIRST V181I' TO N.VTIVF.S. 
 
 Oil tlic 1st of Novcmlu!!*, the Hrst visit was iiintlc III 
 tlu; native luihitations. A party of oflicers went to 
 Woorei, tlu! village where Akoull resided; tliey repaired 
 to his, and then to other Inits, and were rcseeived with 
 joyful hospitnlity, being nearly roasted, as with the 
 Tehutski the inervuse of heat is the inerease- of hojiour ; 
 on their de|)arture they were presented with reindeer 
 skins and meat, and bade farewell to their hosts with 
 mutual good will. Next day, uceording to fashionable 
 usage, the return visit was made by a rather numerous 
 party, two of whom were hivited into the gun-room and 
 partook of our dinner. They were by no means 
 awkward in their usi; of the knife and fork, and handled 
 their s[)oons to perfection — salt food, pickles, pepper, 
 or any other naturally hot comestible, they rejected 
 with extreme dislike ; but sweets of any kind were 
 consumed wi'Ji an aridity that proved how agreeable 
 such delicacies were to their tastes, A boat-full of 
 natives, w hom we had not before seen, came on board 
 to-day : their arrival reduced the monopoly of native 
 productions, and the bartering was " done at a lower 
 figure." Among them w^as a young man with light 
 brown hair and fair complexion ; he would easily 
 have passed for an Euro])ean, the flat nose of the 
 tribe being scarcely distinguishable in him. The 
 cliief's (Akoull's) youngest child, about two years old, 
 
84 
 
 AN INTI',HKNTIN(i rNFANT. 
 
 \vm> also brought on board !>> Ins iiiotlici, and siiiius(3(l 
 us iimcli Uy his ludicrous apjumrance aiul pnrocioiis 
 manner, lit' was roniplt'tuly enveloped in reindeer 
 skins, dn^sed willi tlu hair on, n hirge ( nshion (►!' th«' 
 same niattirial was plaeed at the back of his head as a 
 protection and snjjport, and as he was withal 
 exeeednigly fat, and had a mouth like a cocked hal, 
 we laughed at every new glimpse of the young 
 monster. Laugliing was not howevt^r a practice with 
 this imp of saturnine tempenuieiit, who desj)i.scd 
 moreover the usual amusements of children, and 
 scrutinised all objects with an immovable countenance, 
 as if (piite accustomed to their contemplatiou ; yet 
 this child, altluuigh eating blubber, meat, or anything 
 else that was ottered to him, was not vveaned, taking 
 the breast, not only from his mother, but IVom any 
 other dame who would accommodate him. Tlie 
 other two sons of Akoull were res[)ectively about 
 nineteen and thirteen years old, both very in- 
 telligent and lively. The eldest had been for sonu! 
 time married, and was already a father, his wife was 
 a very nice looking girl : they both played on the 
 fiddle, but their instrument hud oiilv two strums 
 made of deei-giit or sinew — 1 also saw one of silk — 
 and the bow was much shorter ami thinner than ours. 
 Sev(Tal of the young men had a notion of ()laying, 
 
DKATII OK l»(»)H JACK, 
 
 25 
 
 Imf I lininl unlv oiu- imu', wliuli in time niiil (itluT 
 IVatuivs much rcsi'iiiKlnl a liij^liland coroimt'li. 'i'lu' 
 tiiii^t'iiiig uiis good, but howuij^ vxccraMf, tlu' action 
 lu'inji; from tin; slioiiMcr, with which as a ccntic anil 
 stificncd arm ami hand as a rachus, tlicy made a scries 
 of HVVccj)H {greater or less as rcrjuiivd hy the time and 
 string touched . tliey placed jireat weight upon the 
 how, produchijj; hideous screeching notes , slurring or 
 sto|)N they had evidently no iiK-a of I have little 
 doulil that their slight knowledge of the violin has 
 lu^eu (h;riv(Hl from the Kussiaiis. 
 
 The "housing over" was compleied about this time, 
 aiul \\v. looked cosy enough. From mast tt) mast, at the 
 luight of sev* nteeii feet from th' deck, the; lowt'r )ards 
 ami topmasts were secured as n roof-tree; on these, 
 sloping to the gunwales, the smaller spars were sup- 
 [)orte(l at i'cpiiil distances . across these again, poles and 
 staves were placed, h>rming a species of lattu'e-work, 
 overwhu.'ha thick covenng of felt was stretched, with 
 skylights here and tlunv, and a sallyport on the poop. 
 
 Here let im mourn the death of poor Jack. This 
 was I sheep which had long survived liis comrades 
 with whom la had Itecu brought on board at 
 Plymouth, niid had been n^served for Sir Johu 
 bVanklin lu case of falling in with him; he had now 
 travelled over :*l),0(M) miles with us, and was u general 
 
 
 ^tK 
 
9Ji 
 
 irilST SUNDAY [N TCIIUTSKI LAND. 
 
 !!i 
 
 |)('t. Jack had leanicd many tricks, would cal 
 hisciiils, almoiuls, and niorstls of tobacco, and 
 drank grog in the most creditable manner, and when 
 in Avant of food or water wo\dd go to the liatcliway 
 ami bleat loudly for his attendant, often even 
 tieseending the ladder, which was steej) and awkward. 
 Latterly, probably from exposure to cold, and want 
 of sintable food, he had become emaciated and v(!rv 
 weak ; and, after wcathei'ing so many storms and 
 chanijes with us, was found one morning innh-r the 
 forecastle m a hel|)less and dyhig state. A pig which 
 Ave had on board, subsecjuently surnanied the Cannibal, 
 had alreadv connncMiced to devour him, tearing 
 away the skin on the shoulder ; of course he was at 
 once put out of his misery. 
 
 Akoidl, with some other of the isatives, attenck^l 
 Divine worship) on the Sabbath, and behaved with 
 [)erfect pi-o])rieTy ; they evidently comj)rehended 
 that it was a rehgious cere»uony of some kind, 
 although ignorant of its object. (.)ur friendly inter- 
 course with these people was now firmly t^stal)lished ; 
 a very few days hful sutHced to show them that we 
 had no hostile hitentions ; ami they now canic and 
 went freely, without the slightest hesitation ; although, 
 ah we afterwai'ds learned, they were greatly alarmed 
 ui)on our lir.st a|)pearance, and many had retired with 
 
HUILJXNG A H0U8E. 
 
 27 
 
 tlicir reindeer from tlieir dwellings to secrete tluMii- 
 selvcs among the fastnesses of their hills. They had 
 already found out the grndations in rank, and made 
 selection of their favourites, and never visited us 
 without bringing as presents, or for barter, articles of 
 dress or ornament, reiudeer, walrus, seal, and even 
 whales' flesh. On the Captain's paying a visit to 
 Woorel, which, as nearest to the ship (at about 
 four miles distance), was at tirst exclusively visited, a 
 token of kindly consideration was evinced by Akoull, 
 who sent up a reindeer skin as a present to one of the 
 officei's wlio was not of the party. 
 
 The house on shore, intended for bread-baking, 
 washing, and other j)nrposes, was a rare proof of what 
 may be ))erfo]med with slight means by ingenuity and 
 perseverance. Its walls were composed of large stones, 
 dug with great labour from the stony soil, and of 
 gravelly shingle from the l)each, where it existed in 
 considei'able quantities : the sloping roof was a com- 
 bination of rafters, turf, tarpaulin, and a sheet of whale- 
 gut, obtained from the natives. Its extent was twenty 
 feet by twelve; and a door aiul window looked to 
 the southward. Perhaps the most remarkable feature 
 of the afiair was the fire-])lace or stove. vVn iron 
 tar-cask, cylindrical in form, was given to our 
 ingenious blacksmith, who cut two folding-doors in it, 
 
zs 
 
 FIRST IMI'HKSSIONS, 
 
 and converted it into an oven , it was then placed in 
 one corner of the house, from tlie roof of which the 
 funnel projected, surmounted by an old bottomless iron 
 pot. In front was placed a flag-staft", on which a Union 
 .lack Oicasionall}^ enlivened the desolation around. 
 
 The tem[)erature, which had lately varied from 
 + 17' to -I- 23", rose above the freezing point on the 
 ()th November, and a general thaw (the most dis- 
 agreeable thing that can happen hi severe winter) 
 occurred. Seals and geese were numerous on the 
 land ice ; the latter, none of which we had seen for a 
 long time, being tempted to alight in this mild 
 weather. We endeavoured to kill some, but they 
 were far too wary. 
 
 I find in m;y private note-book, under date '^th 
 November, the following remarks, which 1 insert as an 
 instance of first impressions of these people, and interest- 
 ing as a comparison w^ith my views upon a more mature 
 acquaintance • — " Among those who visited us to-day, 
 came 'Thermometer Jack,' emboldened, 1 suppose, by 
 the civility tlie rest meet with, as he has not mach) his 
 appearance since the act which gained him his 
 ,soHhriquet. Really we are l)econiing (piite »lomes- 
 ticated with these people ; thev visit our mess-room, 
 and go from cabin to cabin, eat with us, drink 
 with ns, and are exceedingly good friends. Whether 
 
 
 m 
 
 ul 
 
A POLAR NIG FIT. 
 
 89 
 
 0:. 
 
 Mh'so ju-i' tlu; Ncritable Tt'liutski i^Avhicli I am inclined 
 somcwliiit to (loul)t), or auotlier race, I cannot 
 pretend to decide ; hnt certainly their nianncj's are as 
 niueli unlik< those chronicled by geographers as can 
 l)e. Quiet and peaceful, having no idea of aggression, 
 and doing all they can to make us liappy and conduce 
 to our comfort ; exceedingly cleanly also in their 
 persons and iood, for altliongh they consume fat and 
 all khul;i of (to us) no-sty stuti', they do not take it 
 when dirty, and generally cook everything. I am now 
 speakmg only from very slight personal experience." 
 
 I nuist also make anotho' short (piotation, as its 
 cause made a great impression upon me at the time 
 " This evtMiing tlie fem])enitu!'e has again fallen, and 
 a perfect calm ensued ; tlie hajhoiu" is freezing over 
 fast, Avhh the water as smooth as glass : a bright 
 moon and cloudless starlit sky rendei' the scene one 
 of the most perfect for' tran([uil beauty 1 can 
 remend)er ever to have witnessed; yet her{;_ are no 
 trees, no woods, no tV» iage to enliven the vit;w ; — all 
 is snow-dad ; mountains and rugginl hills frowning in 
 their maiesty where thrown into deep shade, aiul 
 assuming with the headlaiuls an(1 slopes strange 
 fantastic shadows, juttuig out in bold relief on the 
 silent water. So, after all, there may be other tluui 
 tropic nights charmnig." 
 
30 
 
 THE MASQUKRADR. 
 
 m 
 
 IN 
 
 In liigli Ifititiuk's tlie clearness of atnios])lu'r«.' 
 in winter gc^nerally precedes an increase of cold ; 
 and on tnc Dtli we found the temperature consider- 
 ably decreased, one of the men iiaving his fingers 
 sliglitly frost-nipped wliile scrubbing liannnocl^s. 
 A seal was brought on board to-day, vvhi(;h, 
 although small, yielded about four inches thickness 
 of blubber next the skin. 
 
 Our lirst mas(|uerade occurred on the 17th 
 November, and was, as a novelty, sufficiently anuising. 
 We had managed to make uj) a baiul, which, on extra- 
 ordinary occasions, reached the number of eight ; the 
 instruments for music were fiddles and a flute, while 
 those added to give efl'ect, which they did most noisily, 
 were a gong and small military drum ; and at a later 
 season, a chime of l)ells made from those supplied to 
 the ship, and a Tuski drum. One of our men 
 who had not always been a sailor, and amoiiii 
 other phases of his varied life, had once itinerated 
 with an organ and a lamburine girl, manufactured a 
 tainburine, which he handled in an arti *,i(; manner, 
 doing the thumb-roll to perfection ; and also tried his 
 hand at a tin-flute, which made a good Arctic sub- 
 stitute for a piccolo. European and nativt; uifiterials 
 were alike employed for costume, the hybrid aj)pear- 
 ances creating much luirth Among the most jn'oini- 
 
 « 
 
mi 
 
 lUi: MISSfONARY. 
 
 ;il 
 
 m 
 
 iiciit characters may bo noticed Messrs. Jim Crow and 
 Panl Pry, a sweep, a dustman, and a gentleman's valet, 
 and tlie master of tiie band in the sergeant's scarlet 
 coat, gold epaulettes, and cocked-hat and feather, with 
 a black fac(;. There were also two hidies, aharle([uin, 
 and a Grecik gentleman, w^hose costume was most 
 correct ; a huge bear worried the performers, who 
 were forced to mak(3 frequent visits to an inimital)le 
 Tom-and-Jerry shop, whose rotund host, our worthy 
 cook, Avas a fit type of Boniface. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 18th, the harbour was, after 
 many disruptions, |)ermanently frozen over, and next 
 morning the natives came to the ships over the ice with 
 dogs and sledg(^s ; but the crew were not perinitted to 
 run about unrestrainedly until another night liad made 
 security indisputable ; after which foot-ball, lcaj)-frog, 
 and other athletic exercises, were frequently enioyed. 
 On the 28th, a severe gale from the north-north-west 
 occuri'ed, which unroofed the house on shore, and 
 flragged the stream-anchor, used to secure the cover- 
 ing, and weighing five cwt, and a (piarter, fifteen 
 yards. The snow-drift this day must have proved fatal 
 to any parties caught in it, its velocity was estimati^l 
 at thii'ty miles an hour, and iL compli^ttrly obscured 
 objects a few yards distant. 
 
 Nov(imber concluded with the visit of a native 
 
32 
 
 TlIK TIII'.A'HH, 
 
 ; 
 
 missionary, who prodiic^'d baptismal cortiticntrs and 
 was a gentleman of speoeli-rambling propensities. 
 I fear his spiritual mission was of htth.' })en(!fit to the 
 sa\age flock, as we fiftorwards found him sorely 
 wanting in the tw(/ great laws of Christianity. 
 
 We were now rcgulai'ly piu'suing the occupations 
 and anuis(Mnents of an Arctic winter, A survey of the 
 harbour \Aas commenced, and parties were employed 
 boilmg out oil from })liibber winch was plentifully 
 supplied, fetching wat(M on a large sledge from a 
 spring discovered near the ship — which k(;pi open 
 all the winter — cutting the edges of the ice round the 
 ship to prevent her bemg forced up. and removing 
 accumulations of snow from the housing and otherwise, 
 as necessary. A school was regularly established for 
 tlie men, masquerades occiure.d every sveek, and on 
 the 4th of I^cciember the Royal Asiatic Theatre 
 open(>d, with tlic l)iirles(pu; (»f " Bombastes Eurioso," 
 when this prologiie vvas delivered — 
 
 " Sure licre'!? tlio g- catest wonder of the Ago, 
 In Tchutaki Lau 1 aii European Stage ! I ! 
 SteiTi Winter's ( .lilliug frowns we hold for nought, 
 And Mirth Daii Frolic cherish m we ought. 
 Mid Frost and inow to keep King Kiin alive. 
 This evening w< an ancieutje.it revive. 
 Our eiTorts wefw 7 monu'ntH to hegiiile 
 Kindly reward v. ith an approving smile. 
 

 1 
 I 
 
 CHAPTEIi [II 
 
 'I'liski Hot 'I'lliiitski. 'I'liMki, I'roper iiii' Alun thinr iliffiTPiioe. — 
 l.iiiiixu!i>{i'. I >osiri|iti())i Kosoi;il'I;iiii (• t(^ i 'liUH'^c. ( 'oiiifctiii'fs. — 
 I 'itliciilty of l)i^i riiiiimtt.ioii, A Tni>. — Slcltje!* — Doys. — Huts. — 
 Furniture.— U tonsils. 
 
 In all our (loiii|T;s, wliothiM-of iiuhistrv or rcin.xation, 
 tin- niihv<^s took ail active pari, hchaviiiir almost 
 umtorriily Mitli port'oct ^ood nature, and evuieing a 
 most obli}j;injij disposition to^A'ards us. Of eiwrse avc 
 soon began to imderstand ea( h other , l)nt tbey did 
 not learn Kuglish near!} so (pnekly as many of us 
 ac(|uired their tongue, 'I^he otliceis were iVoni this 
 time luitil May seldom all ou board together, expedi- 
 tions being constantly afoot to seek tidings of 
 Franklin, and to gain information respecting the 
 country and iuhabitants, of whom, having been con- 
 stantly among thiMU, I had the good fortune to learn 
 nmch, aru^ will h(>re endeavour to describe their 
 appearance and other characteristics. 
 
 I have first to make a remark respecting the correct 
 designation of this people, which 1 think all-important 
 towards the decision of a long-dis))uted(|uestion, beside 
 
 D 
 
 
 J 
 
34 
 
 THSKl 
 
 
 i i- 
 i • 
 
 'I i 
 
 i .' 
 
 being n iciiiuikjiblo feature in eharactei'. Tclioiiski, 
 Tt'lmktfhe, Tcliutski, Tchekto. and o1 her similar ajtpel- 
 latioMs, 1 helicAo to have ail arisen iVoni tlie word 
 Tnski, meaning a eonfVderation or brotherhood, vvhieh 
 exists among tlieni, and is endowed with some extra- 
 onhnary enstoms, of wiiieli one or two are perhaps 
 uni(pie in practice. We sought assiduously tor the siiif- 
 distinguishing name of this people ; and it was eon- 
 jectnn'd, on on<' occasion, that they called themselves 
 " Nootiisken Callowole," Initthis was afterwards fouml 
 to mean simply, " p(u)ple of a country," or, in fact, 
 "natives;" thus "Gumneen Nootusken," and " din- 
 neen NootiiskiMi," incfin severally " my coiuitry." and 
 " your country/' The mention of the nmnerous appel- 
 lations given to tliem bv strangers- , with incpiiry as to 
 their correctness, invariably produced a negative 
 reply, with the use of the word '''nski, and n. full 
 explanation of its particnlai- meaning, whence they 
 call themselves " Tuski Callowole," or people of the 
 Tuski brotherhood. 
 
 Lengthened intercourse and observation led to the 
 ophiion, in jnyself a confirmed one, that vv(i had two 
 distinct races, or at least branches, before us, ditfering 
 in language, appearance, and many details of dress an<l 
 occi.pation, but livuig close to and holding friendly 
 intercourse with each other Th(! Hemdeer TuhM, ov, 
 
 -ti 
 
 % 
 
 ■ V 
 
TUF, Tl'SKl I'llOI'F.R. 
 
 35 
 
 iis I shall mil tlicin, Tiiski Proper, evidently the original 
 j>ro])ri«'t,ors or ()eeii|mnts of (Ik; soil, having their 
 hamlets situate with a regard to pasture tor their 
 large herds of tan" reinde(>r, rnthei' than to tho con- 
 \enienees of fishing, whieh is purse.ed h\ them 
 np]»arentlyinore as an .anmsenienl than a necessity, 
 dressing neatly and with taste ni the well^'in-ed skins 
 of the (leer slaughteied f(H' food, of whieh the meat 
 is (\'itcn fresh, or smoked, or converted into deli- 
 
 A 
 
 cious pemnncan ; and the tlshing, or Alien Tuski, 
 speaking a dialect evidently first corrupted from the 
 Esc|uirnan\ and now fnrthei disguised by adoption 
 of manv words of the i^eindeer trd)t\ These of neces- 
 sity have their hutv close upon the sea-shore, being 
 dependent ufon the j)roduce of the sea, dresshig in 
 s.^al-skins ; aiul with much less care than their neigh- 
 bours, filthy in their pei'sons, and frequently revolt- 
 ing in their food, <'ating almost exclusively fish, 
 wh.'ile, seal, and walrus ; less athletic, and, indeed^ to 
 my view, infinitely infrrior both in moral and physical 
 condition to their neiglibours. Tlie Tuski Propci- 
 exchange skins of tlie reinck'cr, and a small portion 
 of the meat, for seal-skins, whale, walrus, and seals' 
 flesli, tusks, sinews, &c., all of which are much less 
 valuabkr than their own commodities, Seal-skins 
 they need for mai'ine ein])loyinents, as those of the 
 
 d2 
 
 J^ 
 
r 
 
 36 
 
 CIIARACTKRISTH N OK TllK Tl'SKI 
 
 
 tl 
 
 
 rciiKlccr arc (lt'stroy<'(l l)y siilf water , tlu; Mlicns 
 iv(|iiir(' (Iccv-skins tor liiit f'urnitiifc. 
 
 Tilt! Tiiski l*r()|)<.'r art* niostly cmIIkm' tall or st unfed 
 HI th(ar «xi'*»\vtli, lew jutsohs appear! iil' o)' a iiiuldle 
 stature. I estiihate the aviTa^e height of the tall 
 men to be about 5 ft. lO in., while tlie more [)uuy 
 would jirobahly net (!\eeed 5 ft. 5 in. This ditt'er- 
 enee does ni>t hold good as regards tiieir l)uil(l , all 
 are large lind)ed. l>roail shouldered, and of a robust 
 full habit, ])ossessing great strength, powers of 
 ruduraiiee, activity, and (K^xterity in their emph>y- 
 uients The Avoiueii do not yarv so juneh in stature, 
 and are tall in ju'oportic.ii to the meu , they also are 
 stout and strong, and (lis])lay a notable pcrfonnaiiee 
 of their numerous duties, 
 
 The east of skull and countenanee are, as far as 
 my very limited knowledge^ of the subject exteiuls, 
 pure iMongdlian , faces bntad, round and Hat ; liigh 
 cheek-bones; nose broad, flat and almost bridgeless, 
 in many instances so deeply sunken in the fat face, 
 that a rulci- Avould nearly lie across the chcj^ks 
 without touching it ; eyes placed in a slightly o])li(jue 
 position ; lips large; and heavy, displaying much of 
 the animal , ears small and delicate; liands and feet 
 also very small but nither thick ; hair jet black, 
 coarse and straight; whiskers or beard but seldom 
 
 1 I 
 
 hf*^"' 
 
I 
 
 TIIF.IFJ 1>RKSS 
 
 87 
 
 ■' 
 
 t'Mstiiip, uikI llu'ii "iiily III a tew strag^liii*;- linirs wliicli 
 lire plucked out with n kiiifc ; tlic wliolc cxiin^.ssioii 
 of couiiti'Miiiici is iilinoHt uk'iitical witli ('liiiiosc — a 
 point which for<;il)ly sfnick iiic at first sif^ht. Tlicir 
 limbs arc of splendid 'imsciilar deveJopnieiit ; w rists 
 and alleles vi-ry fine, but neck {^eiieralK sliftrt and 
 fau'k ; coniph vions varying from a lijj;ht olive to a 
 deeper Ime, but very dark tints only occasionally seen. 
 The men gcncralJy (;lip the hair on the ero\vn of the 
 head, leaving only a circlet about thr»'( inches broad 
 around it ; the women let the hair grf)w with the 
 t!Xcej)tion of that on the foreliead whicli is cut and 
 cundjcd down to the eyebrows. The faces of the 
 women arc tattooed on the chin in diverging lines ; 
 men only make a permanent mark on the fact^ for un 
 act of prowi'ss or success, such as killing a l)ear, 
 capturing a whale, &c , and possibly also, in wartime, 
 for the death of an enemy 
 
 I'he dress is with the wealthier sort composed 
 almost entir(;ly of deer, fawn and dogskin, beau- 
 tifully dressed, by the women, with the hair on : the 
 poorer peo])le, who are apparently nuich dependent 
 on and ol)edient to a few rich, often substitute shoes 
 and l)reech{!s of sealskin. The usual dress consists 
 for the men of iiii inner shirt or frock of fawn 
 skni, frequently ante-parturital, worn with the hair 
 
 41 
 
SB 
 
 DKKSrt UK TIIK IISKI 
 
 1' ( 
 
 •I ' 1 
 
 ■11 
 
 ii ' 
 
 ! ; 
 
 lii . j 
 
 inward!"., niul n Iiiigt frock nf tl('(;r-skin rt'acluii;^ 
 iH'uily to tho kiRH.'8, t\\v liair luMiig oiitwaids. 'llir 
 breeches arc rarely iloubli! ; tliiv arc secured over file 
 hips by a drawing string, and reach to the ancle, going 
 insi(h!the mocassins, which are made (4' tlie skin from 
 the legs of reindeir, with soles of seal oi walrus hide, 
 and ornamented with variegated pieces hi. in at the 
 sides with great taste and neatness. Mittens em- 
 l)r()idered with deer-hair, an outer and inner cap, 
 and a beh often handsomely ornamented, complete the 
 ordinary costume, to which in bad w«'ather, i.e., during 
 wind and snow, are added the okonch, to ktsep the 
 snow from their garments, and also a piece of reindeer 
 skin aluait eight inches stjiiare, which, suspended by a 
 string IVoni the neck, doses the t)[)ening hi front of 
 the frock, and catches any drops Avhich may fall 
 whiU' the weaier is drinking, &c. The dress of the 
 females is materially diiferent ; a frock with a vvide 
 hood, edged with wolf or dog-skin, is in one picu'e 
 with wide buskins, reaching onlv to the knee, where 
 they are met by handsome mocassins or l)oots ; the 
 costume is exceedingly picturescpie, and has been 
 adopted with a view eipially to convenience and 
 appearance, as will j)resently lie shown. 
 
 T will here notice, bctoiv going into further details, 
 the few points of diH'ercnce which I r)bserved betw(;en 
 
 f 
 
TI>KI \I.IKN. 
 
 'M) 
 
 rliusf uhoin I coiisidiT I'roptT. iiiul those nvIk»iu 1 
 rousidtT Alu'ii iMiiny of thoHf (l<>ini( ilcd nii tlir sea 
 Hliorc |)n'M(M»ti'(l n iimrktMl contnist «ii" coimliiiiKin' to 
 i\\v. " Ui'iudct'i-H ; " tlic f'oicliciid wus lu^dicr and more 
 narrow, the lace lonj^ci and less l)road, the Iraturcs 
 niori! distinctly dctiuod, particidarly tlic nose, the tint 
 darker, and 1 also think the person, although as 
 rnnseular. hy no means so ll(!shy ; hut this may 
 hav{! arisen from the diHerenco of food, notwiiii- 
 standiiifr | am of oj)mion that their oily diet 
 was, of the two, more conducive to condition. 'J'hc 
 laiJfijuugcM, as T have before remarked, nre essentially 
 diderent,* thoujxh now much commingled , and I 
 consider even the (h.'livery and intonation different, 
 the AliiMis dealmg much more in guttural sounds, 
 'i'lieir dress is almost exclusively of seal and dog- 
 skin ; only n few of the j)rinci[)al ,»ersons wear good 
 reindeer clothes, which would indeed be <[uiekly 
 spoded by the nature of their occupations. Their 
 huts nre neither so large, so clean, nor so well 
 furnished as tlu»se of the 7\iski Proper, .'Uid 
 il seems to nu! that they are generally pretty 
 w»;U content to accept tht; inferior and se(;oiid-hand 
 skins and gainu>nts of their wealthy companions. 
 
 * Tliia may be t<oen in Kl«]irotli'8 "Asia Polyglotta" and " SpracliatluH," 
 t'.ii which information nml much kind asKistauce, I am indobted to my 
 iVitiul Or, U. (! Latham. 
 
40 
 
 C'ONJKCTUKIiS. 
 
 I' I 
 
 i ! 
 
 I must lieie rtniiark that the distinctions I have 
 just dnuA'n, as so d(;cicledly existing between 
 the two races, (hd not, at first view, present 
 themselves in sueli force, probably because the line 
 of separation is not rigidly followed ; but I have 
 nevertheh.'ss no doubt of their correctness, 1 am 
 indeed inclined to believe that greater or less 
 amalgamation occurs. I cannot speak positively as 
 to miirriage, but I know that natives of St. Lawrence 
 Island who bear the type of the sea-coast tribes, and 
 have become prisoners by the chances of war or ship- 
 wreck, liave passed fiom one owner to another in the 
 capacity of slaves, and, by concubinage, increasetl the 
 ditficulty of discriminating between the races. Never- 
 theless, a recurrence of reflection upon this subject 
 lias convinced me that, as before said, there wei-e two 
 races present liere, one indigenous to the continent, if 
 not to the immefliate soil, tlu; other, voluntary or 
 accidental inunigrants from the adjacent land of 
 America. 
 
 1 will not, nideed, exclude the view^ that |)ossibly, 
 at a period of great anti(juity, the Esquimaux on 
 the American coast, west of the Mackenzie river, 
 mav themselves have emigi'ated from the Asiatic 
 (•ontmen\, since there is an evident dissimilitude, 
 in many respects, hetvveen Ihetu and those to the 
 
FKATUUES OF THE COINTHV. 
 
 41 
 
 '^r,^ 
 
 ■VI 
 
 eastward of that I'iver , l)iit siitii an event, if it occurred 
 at all, must have been at a verv oarly penud, and 
 the return was caused probably bv the inability to 
 extend their footing oi) the American shore. I deem 
 it, therefore, the pref<^rabl(; course to treat of the two 
 tribes as one, excepting where peculiar distinctions 
 occur. 
 
 I shall make but slight n)ention of the country, 
 since it is almost vain to seek in this ti'uly desolate 
 region any more than tlu^ least fruitful indications 
 of an elsewhere bountiful Nature. The Flora is 
 especially meagre ; mosi^ " and lichens, with a very 
 few stunted twigs of the Andromeda class, are all that 
 are to be found. Ranges of hills cross and recross 
 eacli other wiii little of variety in their general shape, 
 all betokeui.ig a volcanic (nigin ; and in many, old 
 craters are clearly visible , but I know, by report, 
 only of one mountain now burning. 
 
 One of the iirst visits, in their own style, paid to 
 the nativt!s, 1 had the good fortune to share in ; and 
 in describing it, 1 sht.ll take . ic o])[)ortuiuty of m(*n- 
 tioning many interesting points, Miihkatzan, to whose 
 hut we were to repiiir, liad bi-ought ovej- sledges and 
 dogs for the journey. Mr. Martin and myself luul 
 therefore only to make arrangemenis for our own com- 
 fort, and to provide a lew trifles for our hosts. 'Che 
 
IZ 
 
 TUSK] SLE?JOES. 
 
 m 
 
 
 Hi 
 
 It 'i; 
 
 u ■ I 
 
 •M ) 
 
 Tiiski tiuviillinjj; slodgc — ior tlierc* are two other kinds 
 — is coiistriu'tcd principally for speed, benig exceed- 
 ingly liglit, and of an el(^gant form. Six or nine arches 
 of wood, let into Hat rimers, support a seat about five 
 feet long and foui'toen niches broatl, connected at the 
 head with the runnci's by thin springy ciu'ves ; a sort 
 of basket is formed at the back of the sledge, and 
 broad strips of wlialebone are secured under the 
 wooden ruimers, wliich render friction scarcely 
 observable Braces and uprights further bind the 
 parts together, and all is fastened witli whalebone in 
 a manner [u-rfectly neat and secure. A suigle thong of 
 seal-hide from the under part of tlu^ seat serves to attach 
 he dogs, w^hich vajy from two to as many as ten ; as 
 far as eight thc^y all run abreast, the single traces of 
 their harness ratliathig from the main thong, to 
 Avhich they are securtid by loops of ivory. The dogs 
 are generally small, long-haired, and wiry, with 
 poijitid ears and bushy tail; they have many points 
 resembling both the wolf and the fox, the l)ark 
 especially being a very melancholy whine. A 
 favoured few of the Tuski were [)ossessors of a tall 
 and strong mongrel brt-ed — probably by communi- 
 cation with the Russians — wnth short hair, and 
 something of the pointer look. One train of dogs we 
 saw resembled the staghound, and were capable of 
 
 
 'it 
 
 i'-l 
 
 I ,' 
 
 Ifc ..#•'■■ 
 
TDSKI DOGS. 
 
 43 
 
 iinniense speed and eudiirfiiu't' of fatigue ; hut tlie 
 native (logs will outlive cold and hunger, vv[ii(;li the 
 foreign breed would early succumb to, tlie feet of the 
 strangers being especially tender. 
 
 We started from the ship on a splendid morning, 
 with the temperature at 20° below zero, nearly calm. 
 1 had the honour of conductijig tlie really pn^tty wife 
 of Mahkatzan, who seated iierself astride behind 
 me on the sledge ! whih^ my companion was plf»ced 
 will) ovir vvo]'thy host. I was of course desirous of 
 acqidtting myself creditably as Ji Juhu ; but the first 
 essay in dog-di'i\ing will scarcely be a successful one. 
 lleius then; are none ; tlur animals are to be guided 
 almost entir(.dy by the \^'lup, particularly with 
 strangers, then' masters alone l.iaving power by the 
 vt)ice ; and herein great managcnneut and watchfulness 
 are lujcessary, and an unpractised ha'id will l)e (piite 
 unabh' to run the dogs off a beaten track, or prevent 
 their r<:turning to their homes. Fortunately for my 
 escape from t(jtaldiscouihture Mahkatzan led the >vav, 
 and oiir canine steeds werc^ goiug homeward, so we 
 dashed along without any more than an occasional 
 ovej'lurn, my fair companion holding me in a 
 vigorous grasp in any such case of danger; consequently 
 a d(nible effort of clinging to our sledge was of 
 course necessary on my part. After a rapid drive of 
 
44 
 
 TUSKI HUTS: 
 
 ! I 
 
 four hours, duriii<5 vvliich my comimiiioii had his 
 face shghtly frost-uipped, ^ve arrived at Kaygwun, 
 \vhere our conductor resided, and were scarcely 
 permitted to look round, so eager was he to press 
 upon us the hospitable slu^lter of his roof. Kaygwan 
 is a very small place ; 1 cannot even (-all it a hamlet, 
 since it consisted only, if my memory serve me 
 right, of five huts, of which that of our entertainer, 
 though greatly larger than the others, was not of 
 extraordinary dimensions. 
 
 As the huts of the Tuski are all of similar form 
 and materials, and ditf'er only ui size, cleanliness and 
 convenience, I shall liere describe them generally, 
 nothig peculiarities in tlieir proper places Around, 
 and resting upon one or two pro[)s, are ranged at 
 e([ual distances ribs of the whale, their mmiber and 
 the area of the hut or tent, which is mostly circular 
 or oblong spheroidal in shape, depending n])on ^lic 
 dimensions. Over these, tightly stretched and neatly 
 sewn, is di'awn a covering of wtdrus skin, so beau- 
 tifully cur(!d and prepared as to retain its elasticity, 
 and to be semilucent ; soujc of these skins are of 
 an enormous size , 1 saw one in the roof of Metra's 
 tent at Wootair, which could not have contamed 
 less than Ixitwetui seventy and eighty s(|uare feet, and 
 the whole clear as parchmenl. 8o much light being 
 
 m 
 
 i i;!li 
 
 M 
 
THFIH EXTFlirOH AM) INTKRTOR, 
 
 45 
 
 iulrnittcd b> tlic roof, no windows arc necesanry ; 
 nu ajRirturo on the most sheltered m\v serves as 
 a door, over whicli, when not in use, u screen of 
 walrus skui is drawn , snow is heaped tc» the height 
 of about eigliteen inches round 'h( tent, to keep 
 wind or drift from penetrating l)eneath, and the 
 outer shell is conn>lete, witli tiic addition of cords of 
 jiide sometimes passiid over iind across the roof to 
 secure the skin. 
 
 'rix; yaranga (plural of yarang), "s these huts are 
 called, a;-e constructed of a rounded form, to prevtMit 
 snowdrift from collecting at the gables, aiul to oppose 
 few points to the fiei'ce winds whicyii sweep vemorst'- 
 le.^sly over these treeless regions the sjime rule is not 
 observed w'ith regard to the interior. As the 
 varanira vary so juncli in size, some benn? '>nlv ten 
 o)' a dozen feet in riiameter, while the largest measure 
 from thirty to ii»rty, the internal arrangements also 
 (litter much In the smallei', a single a])artment — 
 fre(|neiitly scarce large enough for two pcM'sons — runs 
 across the hut opposite to the door, while in the 
 habitations of chiefs, who have generally three or four 
 generations li\ing under their roofs, the sleeping places 
 extend m a front and ttvo sides nearly round the 
 walls of the dwelling These extraordinary chand)ers 
 are formed by posts let into the soil at a distance from 
 
 1 •■ 
 
10 
 
 ITKN81I.S. 
 
 i 
 
 1 h 
 
 ! If .' 
 i 
 
 each other, aiid from six to eight feet from the 
 exterior walls, on which, fit heights varying from three 
 to tiv(; feet, a roof of skins and hitha is sii]>povte(l ; 
 tliuk layers oj dried grass are placed over all to exehide 
 tlie cold; deerskin*- dressed with the hair on and 
 closely sewn together hang frr.ni the v(\^e of this 
 roof on th(! inside, and can lie drawn asid(? or closed 
 at will ; when dnit they entirely exclndc! the external 
 air. On the gronnd ai'<^ stretched more well-cnred 
 w alms' skins, over which, when -repose is taken, 
 those of the reindeer and Siberian sheej), beantifidly 
 prepared, are laid , above, close under the roof, 
 against the sides of the hnt, small lattice shelves 
 are shuig, on whieli mocassins, fnr socks, ami the 
 dri((l grass which the more prudent place in the 
 soles (»f their boots to absorb moisture, are |)ut 
 to dry. A species of ilish, oval and shallow, mami- 
 factnred, as 1 understood, by themselves, of a j)lastic 
 material and afterwards hardened, but from its 
 appearanc'.' possibly cut om of stone, serves as a 
 lamp , against a ridge, runnmg along \\w middle, and 
 nearly an inch high, fibres of wect-o-wcet, or moss, 
 m"e iKjatly arranged, only their point?- showing above 
 the stone edge -. the dish is rilled with train oil, often 
 haul frozen, and a light of peculiar Inauty i)ro(luced, 
 giving enf>rmous heat, without, when well trimmed. 
 
 
 ii4 
 
 11 
 
KAY(J\VAN, 
 
 17 
 
 II- 
 
 cither ssiiokc or smell, n\n\ ('ortainly one of the 
 softest lights I t;ver saw, not the slightest glare 
 
 ■ Jill 
 
 (li^tr ss ng the eyes ; around the outer wall are 
 ranged any triHing artieles of onianient whieli may 
 be possessed. Woodiiu vessels scooped from drift- 
 >v()od are [)laced in the comers; they contain ice anti 
 .>rio\v, of which rhe Tuski consume vast (|uantities ; 
 indeed, snow-untnching appears to c»ccnpy the priueipal 
 part of their time l)etween th<? important periods of 
 food and rej)ose, Tlie area of t fie yarang nut occupied 
 by the salons is used (piite as an autechamber or 
 lia^l of (intraiu'c : here food k deposited previons to 
 prep.n'atiou for cooking, much of which is also don(^ 
 hcrt! over larger Uunps than thosc^ inside. 1 lere ar<^ 
 unloaded sledges, and the porters of ice and snow; 
 the former bcuig afterwards placed on tlie roof of the 
 sleeping dpartmcnt. IL're too th(; dogs feed and 
 sleep, the taithful creatures t^ver seekhig to lie close 
 to their masters at the edge of the inner rooms, and 
 even thrustnig their noses hito the heated atnjosphere. 
 Now let ns go into the air again, and thiiu, with 
 my host Mahkatzan, enter his iiabitation, and note its 
 novel features. 
 
 d, 
 
 M 
 
CUAi^Tiai IV 
 
 V: 
 
 .1 . 
 
 
 Kn.vgwan. A Tuski Hrinso.- lliithor too warm. - A HiilKtf,-— A licltisiun — 
 Magi<: :iii'l Music! .Snow Storiii. -Twm i^oml l-'ticiicls. I'i>rt, Kiuiiin 
 — ]iitiiii;ic> witli Niitives. -'rok. — Tiwki Skill .anil Insnnuity. - 'I'lic 
 would-be J'licHt, ('ouistitution of Rank.— A clever Follow. 
 
 Kavuwan lind lit'Oi douhtJcss ciioscu as a rcsi- 
 (l(Mi(!(' for Its ('onvcincnce 'is a risliiiig station ; in nil 
 i'hv it was (lc(Mil('(il)' uiulesirahlo, being placed upon 
 the brow ol' a sjij;>-ht enunence overlook injj: the sea, 
 and but httle siieltered In the hills sontli and west 
 ol' it. before Mahkatzan's hut, as tre(|iiently in 
 other places, stood a slight scaftblding, npon which 
 w(!re j)luecd sledges, harness, frozen tish, and other 
 matters, which it was neeessarv to keep from the 
 dogs Against and upon the hut were poh'S and 
 coils of line of walrus oi' seal hide, seal and walrus- 
 skins hut lately removed from the animals, all thrown 
 carelessly up; while m the outer hall of the yarang, 
 scraps and fiagnients of fish and blnbbei'. scattered 
 straws and lines of snow-drift, gave but smrll promise 
 of neat o.' cleanly airMiigemeiits. Jjifting the heavy 
 
 m: 
 
MAMKXTZAN S 111?!'. 
 
 49 
 
 a 
 
 ^i 
 
 V 
 
 m* 
 
 skins uliK'li hung Ix'fore the iniicr chaiiilHT, 
 Miilikal/iiM iislicrod us in with ofHcious /(;al ; h« re 
 wo found, Ijt'sh'rs his wife, wlio ha<l alrnuly slipped 
 (iff the upper piui ol" her dress, a uujuber of gu'ls 
 and boys, sonn^ (piite luiked, others only jmrtly so. 
 Tlie heat vaus |)ainfully oppressive after the pure cohl 
 afniosphtTe outside ; hut this (hd not ut all distress 
 our host, who dehl)erate!y divested himself of his 
 garments, whieh were however disposed about his 
 pjrsoj) with perfeet propriety. 'J'he heat reaching 
 at hist loo I'ahrenhcit, we wore glad to follow 
 his example, in part, removing our heavy f»uter 
 hal)ih'ments, and resigning ouisc^lves to the now 
 more toh;rable inflietion, in shirt and trousers. 
 
 The iinaecustomed scene in all its variety had so 
 pow'(>rful an effeet upon us that we were unable to 
 do more than look at the viands oiFered for our 
 acceptance ; indeed, on entering th(3 Init, ap])etite had 
 been quite banished by the sight of a walrus which, 
 although now frozen, was (evidently far gone in 
 putrefaction . 
 
 We were glad to get a cup of tea, of which we 
 had brought a small stock, and hoped soon to 
 forget all our troubles in repose. Fallacious idefi ! 
 deluded victims ' Hvery instant from that of ouv 
 entrance, the screens were in constant agitation, the 
 
5(> 
 
 A i>Ki,rsioN, 
 
 cli!iii/(!n» of th(! Iminlot, who I verily hclicvr were 
 inatjieiilly multiplied thnl niglit for our toriueui, 
 tlinifitnig in tlieir wondiTiii^r \ isjiycs lo get sifj;ht of 
 the " Ahvokeii ('nllowole," or " Hitf hoiits' people." 
 These riiniiirestMtious of wonck'r were to be tohrated, 
 as they really did friendly service. U'ttiujjj in «ouie of 
 the (hljeiims eol.i air wluch was ol,\erwise denied us ; 
 but alas, an ordeal we had little reekoned on was yet 
 to ronie, dread Shairiani:«ni ni nil its terrors, .lust 
 uhen we (Ui^erly anti(;ij)ate(l the signal for r<*])oso. the 
 tent \VHS Mivad«'d Ijy a liost of both sexes, aniong 
 whom t\\(> iiti-n of a villainous aspect ;to us at thai 
 moment particularly so), carried large drums oi- 
 tand)ournies ; and a noeturi al serenade inmiediateiy 
 eoninienred. which for sc •cechiMg and deafening 
 uproar c<pialled uuisic of the Inh-rnos I'he jKMforni' 
 anccs were conuneiiced by the two drnni-l)eating 
 Shamans, who sang j^ionotonously while tapping in a 
 slow measured time , and these were soon joined ()\ 
 the whole body ii) chorus, with violent shouts and 
 gesticulatii)us, increasing in rapidity and velu^mence. 
 This soit oi thhig continued for nearly half an hour, 
 by which time Marthi and I were almost beAvildered, 
 and victims of racking headaches. Aftei" these rather 
 forcible demonstrations of rejoicing, foi' such our liost 
 interpreted them to be, we were still further entertained 
 
 I ii 
 
riiF, rKsrrvAi.. 
 
 si'; 
 ■V 
 
 5^ 
 
 ''S 
 
 l)y gyiuiinstir cvolutKMis or (HUitorfioiis of vnrious 
 performers, who at tin; same tiiiic clinnnted. acc(.\ii- 
 ])ani('(l hy tin dnmis and cliorus. The first were 
 youn^f fi;irls, Hien y»»iuij< iiKiii, and histly, ns if to wind 
 iij) and provoke tan' mirth at any rate, an atjed woman 
 with siu'ivelled inuhs, and hideous^ puekered visage, 
 essayed a feeble itxinbition, crooning ont also iti n. 
 thin and shaking tone, and eonrluding her deed of 
 might with a grin (»f horror. It was so inexju'cssibly 
 hulicrons, that notwithstanding grc^at disgust and. pity 
 for the poor old en^atiu'C!, our uncontrollable emotions 
 were not to l)e. suppressed, and we Inughcd loudly 
 and long, at winch the dumc seemed great!}' Hattcred, 
 and eaelsled to herself in high glee. 
 
 The Tuski drum is composed of the peritoneum or 
 external membrane of the stomach of the deer, seal, or 
 walrus, stretched across a slight hollow frame of an 
 oblong round, with a short handle to keep clear of the 
 skin. This membrane is not geiierally beaten ; alight 
 wand of di-ift tir is held by the middle and struck 
 against the edges of the M'ooden frame, sound being 
 produced by concussion : sometime^• two very light 
 rods oi whalebone with small knobs an; used; these 
 are gently tap])ed on the skin itself, and tlie sound 
 then IS more shrill. The evolutions practised to-night 
 brought only the upper part of the perfornu^rs' body 
 
 K 2 
 
bi 
 
 \ SNOU-STOHM. 
 
 into piny. tli(>ir Ic^s Imiiij^ loNNid uiulcr fhnii , llioiv 
 wan liHio worthy of note nxri'pt flic inccisinii with 
 which iiiMsic mid iiiovcincnts arroinpiitiicd cnch otluiv. 
 
 'i'Jicrc is ;i tcrrniiiaticn to uil hiiiMiiii events; we 
 were at last released t'roin this inhiimiin persecutioji, 
 |)e?f()rrnors and gazers departid, and our, lilerallv. 
 sliake-ihmns were i»rc[)arcd Miihkat/an and his 
 wife hini«; a curtain of skuis from tlie roof of the 
 a])artnient, laid down others for conches and coverlets ; 
 then, pointing out to us the places we were to occupy, 
 extingnislied the lani[) and all lay down to sleep; nor 
 were we disturbed vuitil grey dawn appeart^d, an<l with 
 it a heavy gale and terrible snow-drifl, vvhich threatentnl 
 at first to prevent our return to the sliip, Mahkat/ati 
 refusing to guide us thither. On our eviiu'ing, how- 
 ever, a determination l,o <lepart, even if alone, he 
 reluctantly harnessed the dogs and set fortii "with us. 
 
 Those who have never witnessed a heavy snow- 
 storm can have Init slight idea of the ditliciilty of 
 travelling in it, esjuvially over a barren country where 
 then' is little shelter, and no check lo the furious rush 
 of drift. Martin and I were; choking and blinded 
 before we had gone haif-a-dozeu yards, and began to 
 think our guide was right in his objections ; however 
 
 we persi 
 
 ^ted 
 
 in trvjiiir it vet aw 
 
 hile 
 
 an( 
 
 I wl 
 
 len we 
 
 had gone -(ome distance, thouuh the weather becanur 
 
 * 
 
m 
 
 nKSCIUI'Tlnv (»F rilK ()KMN< II. 
 
 6$ 
 
 Worst', tlioiij^'lif if lu'tfiT tn jhocimI tliiiii fnni \nu'k. 
 Miiii> tracts and Inki-s, which wlicn we came «»vcr luul 
 lu'cii hi(hhii hy snow, mm lay perfectly bare, only a 
 lew hardened rid|^'es here and there near stones sJiow- 
 ing the resistance f>rtered. On the lakes, which were 
 fro/en sniootlily a.s glass, friction was so entirely lost 
 that sledges, dugs, and men, v\ere carried along i»y 
 the wnid without the slightest power of control ; 
 contact v\ilh hanlened waves of snow or fragments 
 of rough ice on the borders alone stopped us, tlie 
 sledges then overturning and tliritwing ii , ofl' with 
 violence; We took just double the time t > make the 
 return jouruey that we had betore occu|)ied, aud 
 arrived at the ship well nigh frozen and ui jatly 
 fatigued 
 
 The covering to protect the dress, us Avell as the 
 sipiaro [)iece worn ovt;r tiie opening in the frock, 
 prov(ul on tins occasion their great value. The 
 okonch, okoiu'ho, or okr»nce, is made of the intestines 
 of whales, aiul othi;r marine annuals, slit open and 
 sewn very neatly together on a double edge ; those of 
 th(^ men ha\e a narrow hood and sleeves, and arc 
 generall} |)lain, of whale gi! 'ho women have them 
 mostU of seal gut, which is nnich tliimier ami less 
 oWy : these ha\e broad hoods to receive their hair and 
 th(* large iViiiged hoods of their frocks ; the sleeves also 
 
' V : 
 
 54 
 
 are very 
 
 wide 
 
 PORT EMMA. 
 
 some are ornamented with featliers 
 
 from the bill of the cider duek plaeed apart in rows ; 
 others have thin strips of seal skirt and hair "dging 
 the sleeves and bottom, and indeed there are various 
 modes of ornament : the strips are sewn together 
 horizontally or verticrally at the caprice of the maker. 
 Tliis species of shirt is when good quite impervious to 
 \\ater and exceedingly light, weighing only a few 
 ovmces : it is manifest what a boon such a protection 
 nnist be in snow, particularly heavy drift, th<^ line 
 pm'ticles of which will penetrate into the smaUest 
 crevice, and so completely ^ill the liai)' of the dress 
 that its weight becomes unbearable. The httle squan? 
 [)atch is also a trusty friend ; wlien clogged it is easily 
 ttiken ofl', beaten, anrl ^.]>laced. 
 
 J'>equent visits were; now made to the neighbouring 
 hamlets, those immediately proximate; to oiu* |)osition 
 being of course most often repaired to. Of these, 
 Woorcl, the nt;ai'est, w^as about four miles, nearly south, 
 from the ship, in a smnll bay of the harbour which 
 hud l)een cln'istened Port Enniia by Captum Moore , 
 it r-ontained ten or ch'ven luits, and about scviuity 
 inhabitants. 
 
 Highly interesting as our communication with this 
 new people natiii-ally was, it must not l)e supposed 
 that we depended entirely upon tliem li.tr means of 
 
BAllTER. 
 
 55 
 
 oc('U|)ati()ii or {»misemcnt: iiovortheless tliev 
 III most cases so inf( rniiiiffled with our em 
 
 were 
 [iloyn vents 
 
 that these ucqiaiHMl a new zest thereby. Naturally 
 of an inquisitive, ciuious (lis|)osition, hiereased 
 doubtiess by the profusion of uiKJxplained and novel 
 wojiders each day exhibited, our friends beset us 
 ever on all sules with countless (juestions, whether 
 ve Aver(3 engaged in uniking sci(;ntitic observations, 
 reading a book, or mixhig a glass of grog as an 
 interlude. All was new; all must, be made clear 
 suid eonunon-plaee to their coniprelieiif-ion. 'J'heu 
 there were litth^ transactions of " tok, " or l)arter, t,o 
 l>e trone into ; but her(nn I (M-rtamly believe; that our 
 friends were more aufait than ourselves ; they speedily 
 caught at the tastes of each of us and met our desires, 
 often ])efore expressed, almost by intuilioti. But it 
 must not be imagined that these etforts were made 
 without liop(! of fee or reward, aUhough some instances 
 of pure disniterestedness, I believe, 1 can venture- 
 by and by to record, On the* side of the natives 
 were produced frocks and l)reeclies of reindeer, fawn, 
 seal and dog-skin, also of ('ider duck, okoiiclu^s or 
 over shirts tor snow, caps, mocassuis, mitts ami such 
 hkc, in all of wliieh the inventive genius dI' Ihe 
 untuloi'cd savage was cmploy(.'d ; and so extensive 
 was the demand for their productions, that great 
 
56 
 
 MANUFA(:TL'KIN(i SKH.L 
 
 improvoiiK'nt bcrninc speedily manifested, and even 
 new brandies for profit o^jened. 
 
 TJicse j)e(^ple embroider very prdtily, and ioa j^reat 
 extent, with the liair of the nsindecr and pieces of 
 leatlier cut o\it ui tlie required form and Hewn on ; 
 they also jowi many jnirty-colonred [)ieces of skin 
 togetlier, wJiicIi \vd\c. I'retjuently a very pretty effect. 
 It is curious to notice how Avith them, as in nion; 
 civilised conjnumities, certain persons were famed for 
 then skill in [)arlicnlar branches of manufacture. 
 Some women were remarkabk" for (.Iressing skins in a, 
 superior manner; others were noted for enij)loyini>; 
 l»etter dves than usual At Wootair dwelt a cuiming 
 artist, a very Tuski Cellini, ^vhos(.! skill in scul[)- 
 tnring ivory was tlu^ theme of praise tliroughout 
 the count!y. One man made whip handles well ; 
 another produced the best (hongs, and so in all 
 things we saw; as I I relieve must inevitably be; 
 chmiti'iiii a sou iiuHh'T. These enjoy a monoj)oly in 
 tit(!ir peculiar pursuits; and although, i believe, thev 
 do not exact more than an etpiitable eonsidei'ation for 
 their |)roductions among themselves, put the screw 
 on pretty tightly with strangers, uhoin a fortunate 
 j'haiici' hafi tin-own upon their shores , and as, of 
 course, curiosities and spix'imens of the [irogress of 
 the arts and sciences were m great re(|iK\st, a tine 
 
 
 
INDLSTRfAl- ARTS. 
 
 67 
 
 m 
 
 harvest was reaped by tlie more ingenious. In 
 addition to the artieles of clothinp;, Ix'forc s])oken 
 of, as brought for barter, many retilly interesting niek- 
 nacks were produced. Models of sledges, and of house- 
 hold furniture, pipes and toys of ivory, among which 
 were ducks, seals, dogs, &c., made for tlieir children, 
 and evidencing great taste and variety, fishing-lines 
 of whalebone, with hooks and sinkers of ivory, 
 seal-skin l)ags, large and small, coils of rope of 
 walrus or seal hide, cut without a join for full f^fty 
 fathoms, and of all thicknesses ; dogs, sledges and 
 harness ; and, in fact, any and everything they could 
 think of witiiin their resources ; even the tiniest 
 children endi'avoiinng to bring something into the 
 »narket . hid( t'd, their contributions were not the 
 least interestiu},'^ or sought for. Reindeer, or portions 
 of a eaj'case, were occasionally brought for sale oi' 
 gift, also blubber of the Avhak; and seal for oil, and 
 walrus flesh for the dogs, of vvliich we had in c(jiu"se 
 of time a large numbei' for the sledges. Walrus 
 tusks also brought a good price, and were at tirst 
 8U})plicd in profusion. 
 
 The exchanges f»n our side consisted of large and 
 small knives, beads, tiles, saws, tobacco, trade-cloth, 
 needles, thhnbles, looking-glasses, and any little odds 
 and ends which we Isappened to possess. Preserved 
 
58 
 
 TVh MfSSIONAllY. 
 
 meat tins were a great acfiuis-'ition to th(? meagre 
 furntiire of the Tuaki, wlio were delighted t j replace 
 their scanty and cimi1)voii> wooden vessels, scooped 
 with great pains out of drift wood, or others madr 
 of thill pieces, bent and hooped, which, although 
 ligliter, leaked pk;rpetually, by the canisters, winch 
 they scraped b" -^l. and })ut neat handles to. Indeed, 
 there was gn^at ingeiimty disj)jayed in the a})pU- 
 eation of everytlnng transferred fi'oiu uf* to them, 
 nor \A as the smallest scrap refused ; a tiny bit of 
 wood was accepted with the same cdacrity as would 
 oe shown upon the oflVr of a knife or a necklace and 
 although we might not be abk^ to conceive the use it 
 would be put to, some future occasion would dis[)lay 
 its applicatioii. 
 
 1 have ])(;fore spoken of a self-called, and I 
 rather think, self-constitulerl missionary, v\ho visited 
 the sliiji in Noveud)er; we were favoin-ed by his 
 presence on more than one occasion sul)sequently ; 
 aiid when we came to understand him bettej", w«.'re 
 Hiformed, I believe with ujiu'h evaggeration, that la; 
 had been regularly ordaiiied at Kolyma by the Cireek 
 priests, and commissioned to convey (jiosj)el tidings to 
 his countrymen, llis code of ethics was, however, 
 greatly at variance with that of our great Master. 
 lie iiommumcated Ids ijitentioj'. of proceeding shortly 
 
 if; 
 
AM ATEUll Til EATRICAl-S. 
 
 r)9 
 
 on a joiiriK V to s^oiuc phico wliicli wus cnidciitly 
 Russian ; and by the time to be ocfupied in the 
 voyatio (Uvo months), and din^tion pointed out, I 
 liave little doubt that the 'tort on the Aiiadyi- was 
 indicated. With a vi(nv to senchng inti!lit|,iiice of our 
 whereabouts to England, a despat(di was prepared for 
 tlic secretary of the Achidralty, witJi n rerpicst, in 
 Freiicli an<l German, to any (Mie whr> iTUglit receive n, 
 to have it forwarded without delay. 
 
 Our fj'iends Boon became accustomed to masr]iie- 
 rades. ibotball, and otlier games, and took a lively 
 part in all ; but |)lays were a little more mysterious ; 
 mill when, on the I f)th of December, the farce of 
 "The VVav to Settle Accounts with }om' Lauiulrcss " 
 wns enacted, the reversei' dummy in the water-butt, 
 iniiUijinary victim of suicide, w^as considered to be an 
 iicme of conjuring, and is, I believe, au une\planied 
 wonder to this day. 
 
 It wa:> long before we v.TTe at all able to obtain 
 anytliiiig like n. detinitc idea of the nature of their social 
 Itulder ; th(!re were evid(?ntly some of our friends who 
 were treated vvith superior consideration, and who, 
 when they visited us, always came attended l>y a 
 folloM ing, but they seldom attempted anything like 
 dictation to their suite. 1 am even now by no 
 means Ksure as to the actual conditions of rank ; but 
 
 
60 
 
 fiRAUATlONS OV HANK. 
 
 am tlis|)osc(1 to <'oiisi(ltT thoni as threefold, — princi- 
 pali} pati'iarcluii . partly liciicditary, and pfirtly pricsstly. 
 Tlieru is, at tlic same time, no doubt that only 
 eertaiii individtuils wore I'ecogiiised as f)t' a highci' 
 eonditioii, and tl-oaa were much disposed to 'Icny — at 
 any rate. l'> us — tlu; pretensions oC their ri'll(jv\>v while 
 they enku'ged upi n their own . and in this, those ^\ho 
 l)v serfdom or iiicJination o\Mied iheir individual 
 iinportanci;, suj)jM)rted their statements. 
 
 Of nil ^viiose po..vi:ion it {j,a\<! us the jT^reales? 
 troidile to determine, Akoull was ce' Uutily prcejuhui^t, 
 an-.i li i'!'i-t he -'onfessed that as a diplomatist he 
 far oi;t trapped his comrades. Und!)ubtedly he was 
 a viti'\ clever Allow 1 believe that even upon his 
 first visit to the ship, while we were vet in the bay, 
 his line of conduct was decided upon. With the 
 comprehensive glaiu^e and intuitive apj)r- cintion of a 
 politicinii, he instantly divined, from the nature of our 
 society, the Reference ])aid to oiu' chiefs, and the 
 desii'c displayed to discove)' the leaders of his own 
 party, the great beneht winch must accrue to the 
 seemhig oj' actual possession of rank ; and so with 
 etjual assuiimce and Jistuteness he at once [)laced 
 himself foremosr amon^ them; and, alth(jugh sub- 
 sequent circuiastances Uh\ us to d(ml)t the correctness 
 of his ju'esumption^, he had so adroilly succKided 
 
AKOULI,, 
 
 61 
 
 ill nnulcnug Imnscll' ol sorvico to us, and really by 
 Ins cinmiiig ext3rtt'(l such great inHucnce over his 
 conipiuiions, that we on all f)ccasions treated him with 
 the consideration due to rank I Ijelieve, indeed, that 
 his fortinuis had formerly been more prosperous than 
 now ; and tliat this, witli the profession of Shama- 
 nism, which he undoubtedly practised, caused him 
 to be of some eminence in liis tribe. His son was 
 married to the dimghter of Metra, who was certaiidy 
 the \vealthief:-t, and, but for his very quiet dis])osition, 
 would have been the ahnost undisputed chief of the 
 Tuski Proper in our innnediato vicinity. 
 
 ': 1 1 
 
CIIAPTET^ V 
 
 Welcome little Stranger. — A merry ('lirintinaa. — A CliriKteuing. - A Visit 
 from the Ari.stocracy. — An ancient, Teo. — A ciiuny la<l, fiiiocli. -Miss 
 Propriety, Mcoco. -Miyo, la Petite. — The Diplomato, Akonll. - Bel- 
 conta the Clever. — A Child of Fortnne, IVIotra the Slow. — Reindeer, a 
 Tableau, — A Patriarch, Mooldoyrth. — Yaneengali tho Good. — The 
 Friend, Ahmoleen.-- TJio Pet, Ka-oong-ah. — A quoor fellow, Oui- 
 dooyah. — Attah the Knowing. 
 
 On the 20th Dcccmhcr the tirst bii-th since our 
 arrual occurrctl ; wud on this account, niul also 
 because tlie Uttic stranger was granddaujjjliter to 
 V)oth Mctra ami Akoull, its advent was eek'l)rated by 
 a salute of tAventy-one guns, and an (!xtra nias(|uerade 
 in the f veninji:. 
 
 (hristujas-day was observed with due torni and 
 merriment. Our cri'W thned all togelhrr upon deck, 
 and the fiire would have done no discre<bt to a more 
 genial dime and productive shuatii-n. A reindeer 
 roasted whole graced the centre ot I lie l)oard in a 
 dish made for the occasion ; while the carcase of 
 " Poor Jack," the sheep, at one end, was faced by 
 goodly rounds of sj)iced beef at the other, JVumerons 
 
 il } 
 
CIIUISTMAS 
 
 (V.\ 
 
 cntrcmpfH of prcs^orvrcl nu\'it<*, with a pinitiful supply 
 • if vc;r('t,!il)l('s 1111(1 pickh's, coni]>l(!t('(l tin; tirst rourso, 
 uliichwiis tollinvod l)y enormous piuJ(liM<j:s of pliuu, — 
 
 <U(li as ail Eii^lislmian's soul lo\eth, 
 
 -an 
 
 (i tai'ts of 
 
 (•raul)fni('8, and other preserved fruits. An unliniited 
 supply of the sailor's hcvrTage assisted the consumption 
 of the edibl<is ; and our hoys enjoyed a <j;lorious ve])ast, 
 assisted hy a select f(!\v of their Tuski friends, 
 espeeiallv invited on tin* (occasion. Tlu; liilaritv was 
 great and nndisluvhed, and good feeling reached such 
 a })iteh (U'e midnight, that the officers were succ(;s. 
 sivel} carried round the ship with chet^rs and shouts 
 of njoicing, which proceedmg seemed to astoinsh our 
 native friends ania/iufflv. 
 
 Next night a Christinas ]iantojnm\e, con\])osed on 
 boaj'd, was })erfornied in a niannt'r highly creditable 
 to all concerm^l in its pre])aration, and brought 
 down thund(>rs of applause from pit and boxes. 
 
 On \\\v. ;2Sth, Captain Moore, v ith two or three of 
 our nunii)er, went down to Woorel to christen the 
 child of Heiconta, born on the 20th instant. 
 Koekets were Sent u]) in celebration of the event ; 
 and we were highly diverted to see a nati\e run 
 after one of these, which, misplaced in firing, darted 
 along the ground instead of mounting aloft For- 
 tunal«'ly for him, he did not succeed in catclnng it. 
 
I 
 
 61 
 
 \MIJSK,\I I'ATS \NI) l<;\('l |{!SU>\N 
 
 As jnuus< iiirnts wfic at this time \\u- order n\' tin; 
 (Inv, M }rn asv |)"l«' uns erected mjkmi tlic iee, siir- 
 nioiiiited l>v Ji lioHle of niiii- a eliallciige to nil 
 (•(•nicrs — and tine fiui it ereatfd ; nor was it untd 
 lat( ill the day that one o( onr ni(;n bore oft' the 
 prize in triuni|)l». We ended IS|S l)V rin<j;ing out 
 ins venerable niaje-^ly, and ushered in the iufunt heir 
 with a j'>yous peal 
 
 One or two e\(nirsions had heen undertaken during 
 I)eeend)ei'; but it was nut tdl lSH)liad eoniiiu^ieed 
 tliat they assumed a [ilaee in oiu- regular |)ursuit8. 
 It took some tiuie lo establish ourselves Hnidy with 
 our new frii'iids?, and to enable ns to fe(;l quite secure 
 ain(>ng tdeni when removed from the protection of 
 our ship and her resources Hitherto, also, our 
 imperteet ae(|niiintanee with the language formed an 
 inijHMliinent . but hoav that the way to a more 
 extended and less gunrdod intercourse was opened, 
 nuuiy very mdicstmg trips were made. The ones I 
 was jnyself (iigai^^ed upon ( shall mention in their . 
 order, ami thes(^ com t, with little intermission, the 
 ))eriod from Jamiary niiiil May. 
 
 On tin ^lli of January, whether b\ accident or 
 design, I eniniot sa\, we were in\'aded by an influx of 
 (listinguislnd visitors. The first who arrived was the 
 ('lii(.'f ol Oonguysac, Teo, his daughters Meeco and 
 
 It 
 
 ii*'' 
 
J>I«TINOI)ISlIRn VISITORS 
 
 65 
 
 Mi-yo, fiiifl liis two sons. Ti.i Imd already sicii 
 many sunuiKTs, .md wa'^ infirm , lie was. inort'dxrr, 
 ipiifr luiiic, having rccfivrd a tliNalihiii^ wound in 
 li\j<onr vt'nrs from MooMoovah. wlm m somt! 
 (juurrrl liad lulten him (k'sjicrfitciv in tin Icj; and 
 <'n|>j>lt'd Inm tor lilc Tcowas dral' and taciturn, and. 
 Avjim lie «ij»ok(', artu idatt'd with licsitrttion and 
 dillicnity, licni^ apparently alMiclcd with palsy or 
 paralysis Ih was, notwuhslandinj,', a ver\ pleasant 
 and uell-di.sposcd old jj:»>ntl(!inan , a liltir <'nisty at 
 times, perhaps. ImiI very well m all I Ic hronj^ht sonw 
 liaudsome pi't'sents tor the (aptain — anioiii;: others, a 
 sealskin tanned ami hieaehed prrjrctlv vshiti', orna- 
 mented all over ni j)amtin<i und staininj^ witJi tip;ures 
 of men, boats, ammals, and delineations of vvhalo 
 fishin{T;, &e , — a xiilnahle enriosity. 
 
 Enoch, his .son,, was in many rrspects a type of his 
 fath«T , hnt (pialities which in the elder might pass 
 tVa" wisdom and deliberatuai were in th*- son hnt 
 a])parcnt indications of a sordid nature , and such I 
 believe was tlie case. No athletic exercises for Enoch, 
 no employuients ami amusem'nrs, such as the yj'i'ig 
 men of his own ago |)ra( tiscd, — thes wore rarely his 
 occu|)ations. Rather would he sit the livelong day in 
 his com|;in1im.nt of his father's yarang, fingering and 
 fussing ovi-r his queer little two-strmged tiddle, or 
 
m\ 
 
 P.NOCII AND MKF.CO. 
 
 some otluT ruiialK ini.uiit artu'lc ; or ""/h Iviidc ol' 
 tiny fii/<' kikI crookcil liludc, scoop out M,mv l^y <>' 
 iiiuilrl t'loiii lVat!;iii('ut ol wood or ivory, to liu disposed 
 of (o (In \t\voit.H Ciillovvolr upon tlic first uppoi- 
 tiinitv niid most rnvoiiridih' tcrnis ; lor I'lnoili w.-is no 
 spciidllitif' Tool U) dissipate m Iniillrss ^ifts tht' 
 rrsiilts of his nidnstrv mid mirumiity. hotli of wliicli 
 lu possessed III plt'iity. Kiioeli Wii.-s sniidi, and 
 lieitlker ^o well .shajied nor <«o vi<);or<»us a> liis eouii- 
 trymeii i^fncrally indeed, if I n eolK-et ri<;lil, lie had 
 in youth rceeixed a s])iiial iii|nrv, from wliieh he 
 still siitlcred , lii^ fa»( Ixtie tlif sallow tm<jre of 
 delif'ate In alth, and his hair, whi<*h he avoiv lon^;, wjis 
 of a hirliler line lliaii was ^eiierilly sci'ii, It would 
 not nideed l>» nnroasonalih' to conjeetiire luiii to hi' of 
 niivcd d( seiait hi nil his eoii!iiiiiiiirali<)ii> u illi us, 
 and they v^^rc li'e(pieiil, Enoch's manner was sxihdued 
 fiTiil '>l)lio;iiiir ; he cvideiiflv av<aded jars or breaches 
 of u:ood tei'lin;^, alike wilji u> and his own eom- 
 
 paiiioi 
 
 IS. 
 
 Teo's eldest dauijjhtei', Meeco, was a strajjpiiii:? lass, 
 who rondiiett'd ;ill ;iriariijejncnts with pertect self- 
 posscssKai and u;ood-hninour. and attended f(t hei 
 decrepit fallal with e\emplary attention l\«itlier 
 
 h( r h^atnres, inien. iioi manners, with 
 
 MMne s 
 
 cxct 
 
 ptioi 
 
 I, would iia\c disgraced a more cm 
 
 li-hl 
 ilised 
 
\K(il II rill DII'l.oM \ 11'. 
 
 ft? 
 
 I^^', 
 
 iUT 
 
 1 
 
 lirr 
 
 , til 
 
 i 
 
 '.', 1 1 1 
 
 ■| 
 
 ^( «l 
 
 1 
 
 iH'^iou Wo iil'fcnvn, Is m\\ nnirh of licr rind 
 vlictluM' nliromi or iiistiillrMl ns mistress of lu r liitlur s 
 l.'irijjc viuiiM^'. \\ liirli she iiiiiiia^'cil without roiitrol or 
 iiitfrtorriicc, M('(M'(i wns I'ropridlvs sell' 
 
 iMi-\o. the sccoiid ilaiij^'lilcr, vvmn iiiucli voini|j;('r 
 mul siiijilli-r ilijiii her sister, ;i (|iiitl, prettv liMle 
 girl, who sjiiil htile iiiid siiillcd iiiiirh Hulh thr 
 sisters ph'iised ii> much l>\ their looks of ,>ii|K'rioi 
 elejinliiie->^ Akoiill Jind nelcniiiji soon arrived It 
 W)is evident ly part ot the former > ai r}mu:ement that 
 we shonid never l)e |teniiilteil to eommmiieate with 
 slriiiifiTis oi men of mlluenee witlioui his pveseiiee and 
 ns.>istanee li jtossildi- , or, a( any inle, his immediate 
 eolinisaiiee of llie e\enl l)\ menus of one ol his manv 
 spies : assuredly friend /Vkoiill liad n keen iinder- 
 stnndiiiL', ami a readv lund of assm'anee which stood 
 
 ■mil III iTood s 
 
 tend 
 
 {)U man\ oimiTiiis oeen^ioiis, and 
 
 would have condiieted hiin to wealth and distinction 
 
 III oilier lands where lhe\ arc sharpened hy rompeti- 
 
 tion, and more speedily appreeiateil than among these 
 
 ])i'(tph^ of simple mind Akoull was n just emhodi- 
 
 meiil of ir,> uioi;d i|nalities. small, shi-iAelled. and 
 
 yellow, )e) of nervous and active de\('lopment and 
 
 hahils ; of speech low -toned, fluent, nnd insiiuiiitm«i, 
 
 with small (piiek ey«'> sparkling and resth^ss. stealthy 
 
 step and tieferential address, lu lo*tked himself — 
 
 f2 
 
68 
 
 Bl l-f'ONTA. 
 
 I 
 
 a wily, calciilatinj,; sclu.mcr Ffis sou, Helconta,, was 
 one of the most ijitelJigent among the triUe, and if he 
 possessed like cunning to liis father's, took care to con- 
 ceal it ; h(^ e.seelletl in those evercises which call for 
 (dfoits of mental ()o\ver, being, for instance, a skilfid 
 chariot rer and unrivalled traini,;r of dogs ; he displayed 
 a greater eapabihly than the rest for ac(iumng 
 information, and speedily learned many of our words 
 !U)d ivcri seJiiences ; lie was a particular favoiu'ite 
 v\ith some, ami upon the whole was generally liked by 
 ')nr party ; nor was he e\er incliuled hi the suspicions 
 of double dealing winch were nu»re than once raised 
 againsi hi.s parent. 
 
 Heleonta wa.s of '^mall stature, light and well- 
 proportioned, with cleanly-euf feMturc; , good expres- 
 sio)i, and i'\v;\Y complexion ; his general aspect was 
 |)rep()ssessing. and this was certainly reipm-ed hi the 
 family as a stt.-oft' agaiii'^1 that of his f.ither, which 
 was (!(•( idcdly sinister I If played tlw fiddle, was 
 a constant visiT;»r al the -hip, and took an animaled 
 part in our diversions, ever showing a disposition t«^ 
 oblige. 
 
 On the return ol Messrs. Martin and Simpson from 
 V\ odtair, whither tlicv had b(^en on a visit, they were 
 accompanied b\ Metra, ol vvluan I have already 
 spoken, jind some of his lannly Metra will tignre 
 
 if ■'! 
 
 !,l 
 
METRA, 
 
 69 
 
 much in my narrative, and was a person of great 
 wealtJi and importance ; but I fear that in attempting 
 to present his picture it will i»e difficult to delineate 
 any remarkable points ; he was, in fact, a very 
 uninteresting individual, and but for l»is position 
 must have remained nnnc'ticed among the common 
 herd. How often do adventitious (Hi-cumstances 
 ren 'er men, possessing in themselves no points of 
 prominence, oltjects of imjjoi'fancc and celel)rity 
 Metra was no hmger young; his hair had already 
 begur o silver, and a few crows'-feet marked the 
 progress of timCj ])uf he had doubtless -worn well, 
 being oppressed proliably by few cares, and [promised 
 to enjf^y [i green old nge ; his form had lost little of 
 its r(;undness and muscular develojunent, and he 
 could sliovv, when he pleased — which was, however, 
 seldom — well-nigh as great activity as the youngsters, 
 but his ordinary movements were rather snail-like and 
 he was evidently not accustomed either to hurry or to 
 put himself at all out of the way for any one ; inde(Ml, 
 1 siiould sav, if such a thing ever occurs among the 
 Tuslsl, that JNIetra hail been a petted child for whom all 
 services were perfornn;d by obsecjuious attendants, the 
 natural indolence of his (character alone |>n;serving it 
 from material deterioration. Like Teo, Metra wa?« 
 not n man of manv words ; he had a creat partialitv 
 
 : I 
 
JO 
 
 V SLCJU COACMl. 
 
 for the Russian word Toroirm, n^eaiiing, I liolicvf, 
 vvclconu;, and tins he brought in on all occasions, not 
 alw/ivs tiiitiihly, but it was of httlc coiise((iience ; he 
 had not, F venture to conchuk^ iuany ideas in play at 
 one period, iind as tliey circulated hut slowly in the 
 caverns of his drain, Toronia came in, [ ftincy, very 
 convenientiv Ji^ *> stop-pij) lo eonversation wlnle he 
 had time to re])lace one thought hy the next , occa- 
 sionally, however, Metra displnved latent powers of 
 mind scarcely to be expected , dry, (|uann, and often 
 even caustic humour, showed that there was still 
 soniethhui; better than dross beneath the siu'face ; and 
 ns he was a very shnwcl old gentliMuan at a bargam, 
 I do not think we ought to ilisiniss him from <nu' 
 sketch as altogether a sunpleton, but rather alibrd hinj 
 ihe designation of ,v/c;?r. 
 
 All these visitors had nrrived in their sledges, drawn 
 i)y dogs, of which Metra and Jkleonta possessed ihe 
 H nest teams in the country , but a new ami delightful 
 spect;icU; was afforded us later m the afternoon, I >} the 
 arrival of Mooidooyah, his wife, son, and friend, ea(;h 
 driving two reindeiM' harnessi'd to his sledge, [cannot 
 descrili(,' the emotions we experienced at Jus sight, 
 so novel and so interesting ; no other incident, since 
 the hi'sl view of the natives m (heir atwoits in the 
 l>a\, pnnluced so \i\i(| a reniemhrance ol the distance 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
REVIEW OF Ol'H F-OSf'flON. 
 
 7! 
 
 
 h 
 
 % 
 
 which lay botweeii us and oiiu homes, aiul of the 
 strange })eoj)lo «\t' \v<t<; now iinioiig. 
 
 In oui lirst interview witli the Tnski, after the 
 inuuefhate surprise und )io\ehy hfid [>aHsed, we wei'e 
 too mucli eniploved with our own atlairs to pay {)arti- 
 cuJar attention ro '-aeh peculiaril>' npon its pnniary 
 exhiliirion, nnd thus !iiany [)oiiirs of strikmi? interest 
 had l)eeonie fanniinr, while we negleeted to notice 
 fhem with dia; atteJitioji Ihit this ineideul recalled 
 all th<' strangeness of -vur position to mind: one 
 view ul' the tableau presented renewed the fresh- 
 ness -nul niterest of this pliase of onr lives. Lofty 
 rugg<Hl mountains, niajestie and snoAv- be wrapped, 
 surrounded the ice-buiuid harbour, now chid in a 
 smootli, almost unbroken nianth- of da/,i'Jni<}; white; 
 the Atwoit resting upon its bosom jiki a bu'd u|)on 
 the water, iniw long located in her icy home, and 
 with snow upon the roof and masts, mul a ridge 
 (jf broken ice iuound her. adj'cd to the strangeness 
 of the scene, while the crev\ , clad \\\ all varieties 
 of costunu', from the stam-mihtary to a close |)roxi- 
 nnly with the dresses c'i our friends, mingling with 
 the Tuski m their cuiaous lijibiliineuts. now also 
 beginning to evidenc(,' their intercourse with us by 
 scraps of l^iroptan maimfaeture, intermixed with 
 their own (h'csses — nearly a hundred dog^, with 
 
 m 
 
12 
 
 CARE OF AMMAliS. 
 
 # 
 
 nujiierctvis ^sle<^gt's — and, to crown all, tlumew arrivuls, 
 with their reindeer, filled uj) the j^icture which 
 nee<led notlnng uiore to eomphte its picUiresqii.! and 
 peculiar Itenutv. Tliesc Iniintitu] ainnials, attached 
 only by li^ht iraers to the sledges, and with long reins 
 of careCully diessed and rounded iiid* , fastened t«tbeir 
 horns, their long lo(js('. eoiits smooth and glossy — for 
 the Tusl<i pay great attention ti) then' tana." draught 
 inunials — hranehmg mitlers, soft, lustrous (yes, pen- 
 dam d»n\ la[)s, and sh^nder springing fetlocks, looked 
 models of doeilitv, endurnnctv a)id speed. 
 
 Mooldooyjih, })atejianuh!is and le.'uler oj tin,' party, 
 was ii luau of enonuous tutaild and striking jippear- 
 ance. I5v fai the largest (»! hi> tribe, he stood 
 • •onsideiahlv al»<iv(' *<i\ Icrt in (kigiit, with Innbs 
 and ligrui ol nias:>i\e de\e(,i ncnt, uu'reased by 
 ati inchnatiim to ubesitv, whiv^U ias laature years 
 had begui) to jlisphiy His face, now large, round, 
 and heaW; had. I .-^hoidd imagine, oiici' lK:eii haml- 
 sonie, Ix'uig red(^rmed from the onhmiry Hal forie 
 of his fehows by a sti'aiglit siroug nose and well- 
 marked brows, Ills loivhead was broad mid low, 
 mouth and ehm heavy and sensual, liiketlu' majority 
 of gigantic men. Mooldoovah s temptianieni was of a 
 phlegmatic turn, and this was a fortunate condition 
 oj his evistence ; for, when rouM/d, which rarely 
 
^1 
 
 MOOLDOOYAH. 
 
 78 
 
 occurred, Mooldcx tyah was terrihle in his angci". 
 Ordinarily he was stolid, inactive, and good-tein[)er('d, 
 took a!J things with exeuipUiry patience, k?t every 
 one, particularly his vvijc, of whom he was justly 
 very fond, do as they })leased, antl sIiowcmI a great 
 dislik* to standing ; ad(h'd to this, he cat and drank 
 in proportion to his vast bidk, atid stnoked as often 
 as he could afford it, which, after I knew him, was 
 very nearly all day long. 
 
 Taneenga, the vvif(^ of Mooldooyah, was, in my 
 estimation, without ;ui equ.nl of her sex in the tribe, 
 when all points ol comparison wcri; Cdnsidered , true, 
 Mi-yo, the charming yW/Vc sister of Meeco, the anu'ahle 
 wife of Yap])o, and the iVni- dame of Mahkatzan, 
 niij^ht each dispntc wiih lur the pahn of beauty, 
 but these were still quite young, while Yaneefiga's 
 charms had liicrged into the fuller figiir<' of iht 
 matron : but who, like Ynneenga, bore so unvaried 
 a countenance of good -humour ? — who, like her, was 
 always amiabh', always tlntiightfid for the wants or 
 comforts of those arouml lu-r P Of th(^ tallest among her 
 sex, large and robust, y't of rouiuU'd aiul well-formod 
 figure, with an easy, digtnlied carriage;, which was 
 never ungraceful, a coujitenance originally very 
 hamlsonir, though now full and slightly coarse, ryes 
 of lu[uid jet, ever spaikliug and beamuig with good 
 
74 
 
 AHMOI-EEN. 
 
 i 
 
 huinoiir, tVnturos gt;iurally good, but wliost; utlcct 
 was iiuicli liijun.'d l)y tiu; lips, which, enclosing hirgi; 
 strong regular toetli of pearly whileiiess, were too 
 full and heavy for a delicate Mste, neat and vvell- 
 niade garments put on with judgment, small feet 
 and hands, and an ojH.'n engaging manner, marked 
 my [liend Yaneenga as one of ihe Ix'st and wortiiiest 
 specimens of her tribe. I shall have much more to 
 S!iy of her and hec husband pres(.'ntly, so will now pass 
 to their son, Ah-mo-leen, of whom T I'ecorded a ti'ait 
 hononralile lo Ins character, on the occasion of pur- 
 chasing his coat ill an early stage of oui' ace |! sain tance 
 Ahmoleen, now the eldest son, was only inferior 
 to his father in stature and si/e and bring nmch 
 younger was less unwieldy m tignre ; m other respects 
 he greatly resembled M/tohlooyah, was a little more 
 lively, and of course much more active?; l)ut his good 
 temper and forbeaiing disposition wert eipiaily con- 
 spicuous nor did he ever take iindiii; advantage of 
 his grrat superiority of physical strength. 1 believe, 
 iKjtwithstanding hi> inactivity, that Mooldooyah was 
 c\en now much more powerful than his son; but 
 next to hiib AlaeoieiMi \va>s chief in size and strength. 
 Mooldooyah oftm lamentcr' to me. in moving terms, 
 the death ol an elder son, who so greatly surpassed 
 Ahmoleen m physical develo[)nieiii that, ;is he 
 
•VST- 
 
 ■1 
 
i i 
 
 KA-OONO-AH AND OMDOOYAH. 
 
 75 
 
 (•x]>ro8se(] it to lue, lie coidd linvc takcni Aliniolcen b^ 
 \\w middle and ditshod him down upon the earth. 
 
 Ka-ooiig-idi, the httle dauglitiu- of Yancenga, almost 
 the realisation of one's idea of what she herself must 
 have heen as a eliild, concludes my present dtitail of 
 this party ; she was lithe of Umb, prattling, rosy, and 
 merry as a bird, a most ingenious little sempstress, 
 
 nM( 
 
 I ilelighti'd to nuike all sorts of (;ueer little bags 
 
 nnd gloves and dolls for me, whose especial favourite 
 slu? was, and whom it u^is li(!r delight to plague. 
 
 In addition to these p«?rsonages we were favoured 
 by the presence of Mahkatzan, black, oily, and 
 grasping; Omdooyah, and his wife. Attah. Now, 
 Oni(lo(^\nh, although not a chief, was such a very 
 (puTT fellow, that 1 cannot refrain from noticing some 
 of his peculiarities ; aiul Attah was so unceasing and 
 troublesome, but at ttie same time so very useful a 
 visitor, that she likewise deserves a moment's atten- 
 tion. Omdooyah was an original of the first water, 
 iuid a veiy biuny one to boot. First as to permnnel : 
 he was unlike everybody else ; his frame was large and 
 somewhat heavy, and in this he slightly resembled 
 our friend Mooldooyah, but here all comparison 
 ended. His frame was broad ami srpiare, but loose 
 and iingaudv, with lind)S which constantly disputed 
 their mutual allinity, and ever i)layed at hide and 
 
 •» * 
 
n 
 
 A QCEKR KEl-LOVV, 
 
 seek witli encli other ; ii (leiueiiiioiir generull\ impas- 
 
 siblr, but upon tlie successtul roliclusion ot Wn- 
 
 frequent jokes lighting up in an inexpressibly liuli»Tous 
 
 manner ; a lace round and flat a.s tho lull moon, with 
 
 a dab for a nose, and a gash for a niontli, around 
 
 which, and the sauci^r-like eyes uicliniug at an angle 
 
 to the nose, ^ly mirth and mischief-loving wrinkles 
 
 lay crowduig together: Omdooyah was absolutely 
 
 overflovvhig with fun , everything served him for a 
 
 joke, enjoyment of which was height* iicd b) the (piiet 
 
 yet ii'resistibly dfoll way in which it was perpetrated, 
 
 and a sort of half-unconscious, lialf-cpiizzing evpression 
 
 which used to excitt; us to screams of laughter. No 
 
 matter whether for or against himself, the fun nuist 
 
 be had, and he nuist do it. The (piint<'ssence of 
 
 goo^I uaiun; too, was ()mdoo)ali, the personification 
 
 of s:'Jod will to his fellows We often, to our shame 
 
 lie it recorded, tried to i)ut hiui into a passion by some 
 
 practical joke, for we loved fuji as \kv[\ in that snf)wy 
 
 clnue as in more gonial regions ; but it was of no avail ; 
 
 the only result was a grin which niailc lu^ mouth look 
 
 hke the Tower moat, and a sly return of the jest 
 
 presently. 1 dare say he tliought it was too nuich trouble 
 
 to get in a rage ; besidc^s there w^as no fun in that, so 
 
 it was too dull uoik Onulooyah was one? of our 
 
 especial fasourites, and this entirely from iiis own 
 
ATT.VIf. 
 
 77 
 
 ai/)inl»ili(y , lu- \\>u\ uiin'stiaiiKjd ingn'ss to tin; slup, 
 to our iijrsM, uiid to our oibins, rmd was never a 
 })uv(\rn f)('f'jins( he \uu\ vvitlud sui-li iriFiaU' good sense, 
 I niav even 8a_y ilclicaey mI (xixh ption, I hat we were 
 never uiide?- tear of his intrusion when pieocrupieil, 
 nor of inl( rf« rence in our r<»n)niunication.> uith fda-rs; 
 if he found or Oionglit liimself f/i' trop, Jie would 
 eitht r tjuietlj '*eek )thcr locality, or sent himself, 
 
 like a hah'-|>ay \v .i? in the waiting-room tit the 
 
 A(hanalt\. to aw; oisin'o ot those he sought, 
 
 stu< lying the (»b)eet • around, whieh were nhi-ady as 
 familiar to lum as tlir fi;rnitnre ol the aforesaid 
 waiting-room is to myself, with a degree of interest 
 and attention only justiHt'd by his want of occupation. 
 Now lor his worthy spouse. Alt ah was what is 
 very generally CiiJlod " exceedingl) |)laMi, which 
 means, I suppose, plamly ngl) ; an\ jiueiiiie charms, 
 any diniploci boauticjs which might have graced her 
 visage m more favourable seasons, had lied for owr : 
 wrinkles and puckers held des|)otic sway there, now- 
 rendered less inviting by long acciiinulations of dirt, 
 tor Attah was regardless of the greatest of human 
 comforts, and was ever in a. sad condition of untidi- 
 ness and tilth. Attah's (vwn definition of herself 
 would probably litive led one to imagine that her 
 disposition was of the most obliging nature, that her 
 
IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 <if. 
 
 
 1.0 
 
 Ui»2^ |2.5 
 
 2.0 
 
 1.1 I'^i 
 
 11.25 ■ 1.4 
 
 1= 
 1.6 
 
 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 Corporation 
 
 4!^^t 
 
 ^. 
 
 as WIST MAIN STIIIT 
 
 WnSTIR.N.Y. MSSO 
 
 (716) •72-4S03 
 
 «^ 
 
 
 4. 
 
78 
 
 ATT AH. 
 
 il 
 
 sole delight was tn be useful to those aroui^d her ; and 
 so indcHjd it might appenr to acasual observer, i^lut 1 
 must be less charitable and more just to hisr elifU'acter, 
 having had iiTefragabk; proofs of n, totally different 
 leaning. Tliiiik not it was the perfornianc c of a service 
 which delighted the dame , true, she wjis ever ready, 
 ever oitieiously \olunteei'ing to be of use but far other 
 was the aim of lier reiiibness, of hei activity, than 
 the promptings of n benevolent nature ; olas ! we miist 
 admit \\ith regret that the chief (»i»ject of Attah, in all 
 her doings, was the remuneration whic'. shcndd follow 
 their completion Yes, for " tok/' which, though 
 strictly meamng barter, is also used for payment or gift, 
 she would do anything. lacing always at hand, very 
 quick in h(M' motions, having ever a smiling face, and 
 chattering away in great style, slu' was at first con- 
 sidered a kind, willing cveatnre, whom it was a 
 j)lcasure 1o em'ploy ajid ivward , l»ut she pj'esuni(>d 
 ujion the favour sho\^ n her, displayed jealoiisy nn<l 
 sulks when other ladies were engaged to j)erform any 
 slight service with the needle, and became, moreover, 
 sj> exacting in her demands, and so det(uniinately 
 importunate for gifts, that slie was at la.st unanimously 
 voted a bore, and fell into com))leto disfavour. \ Ct a 
 funnv creature was Attah, and <!;enerally a inerrv one: 
 her antics were inimitably ridiculous and grotcscpic, 
 
 \\ 
 
ATTAH. 
 
 mi 1 ac('oni]){mieil by grimaces whid 
 
 l)y sjnipatliy at th(> unnatural distortion of l'( 
 
 she posscsstnl a tiu'n tr)r coinedy and 
 
 and this was often cxcrci8i!d fo»' 
 
 — iier profit. 
 
 79 
 
 I gave one pain 
 
 at lire 
 
 niinne (hsplays, 
 
 our amusement and 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Friends.- I'resfMits. TiiKki Preferences. — A LA-lo6p. — The Tiiski Ifancly. 
 
 -A State Virtit. — Curious Dances.— The OldeHt Inhabitant. The 
 Dead. New ! ''fw. — Wootair. Appearance of the Conutry. - A 
 Cliiefs Yarang. Tho Sea. 
 
 Si'cn an iiiiex])ectccl influx of distinguished visitors 
 obliircd us to use exertion lor tlieir enttn'tainiuent 
 and reee|)tion Tlie sledges were carefully disposed 
 upon the roof aud iee-plank, and the dogs secured in 
 tlicir rcs])ectivi' bauds, on the forecastle or roimd tlu; 
 ship ; the reuideer ccadd not very well he hrouglit on 
 board, and moreover reqiured their .sup|)ers, Avhich 
 our store of blubber and half-putrid walrus flesh, 
 kept for our dogs, and now borrowed trom to feed 
 those of our guests, would not ^ve to supply ; they 
 were therefore driven oft' for tl; ight to one of the 
 neighlxHiring valleys, whi-re moss abounded. My 
 aetjuaintance with Moo'dooyah aud his family had by 
 this time, by mutual likmg, warmed into a sincere 
 and durable frieiulship, 1 had early be<;u mipressed 
 with a favo)U'al)Ie opinion of their kind and generous 
 
 ii 
 
FlilENDs AM) TIIKIK I'RKSKNTS 
 
 81 
 
 natures, first created probably by my tran-iartion with 
 the son con('ernin;j: the coat. Subs((|uent. nitereonrsc 
 eonfirnieci jnc in my regard for them ; J found strong 
 afieetion arid a self-denying dis))osition existing]; with 
 thera towards eaelt other and was deUpjhted to be a 
 sharer in Wwiv rejjards Brstween them and myself 
 the usual lmsin(iss oJ bart<^r was never eniplovc^d , {<ifts 
 w^t;re interehan}j;t!(! without tlioup;ht of a bargain , 
 whatever I needed had l)ut to he whispered to be 
 immediately supplied ; while ])resents of all kinds, 
 some of them really valufd)le, poured u\ nj)on me in 
 a inanner (juite embarrassing, I do not mean to 
 assume that all this was done without i!\peclation of 
 a return, but I am (piiti^ sure that m\ gifts, espcxnally 
 at first, weri' inadecpiate to the worth of theirs. 
 Yaneeuga had now brought me tiie entire earease of 
 a reindeer, u pair of mitts, stockings, and bri'eehes, 
 all v>f fawn skin, of suf)erior beauty and dressing, 
 and her joy was infinitely greater at giving than my 
 really very great delight at receiving so handsome a 
 present . The deer was by the locid regulations yielded 
 up for the use of th(^ ship's coui])a7iy m common, but 
 tlie other articles were carri(ul to my cabin and neatly 
 fl'spos*Ml in th«; drawiTs by Yaneenga, who was well 
 nigh as much plea.^ed at performing tins act of 
 confidential service; as in the bestowal »>f her gifts. 
 
f 
 
 S2 
 
 FOOT) 
 
 ■ ■ ^! 
 
 ^^'lli(•h, althoufyh presoiitod by her iiulividmiUy, were 
 of (Y)ursc understood X(\ be from her husband and 
 son also. 
 
 Our friends were distributed between the cabin and 
 gun-room, and supplied Avith refreshment ; but only 
 a few of our edibles were relislusd by them, the 
 preserved meats in particular boinj? held in very liglit 
 estimation generally, a few natives only, who per- 
 severed m eating then), gaining an accpiired taste for 
 their flavom*. I think that the spices em])loyed in their 
 preparation were especially disagreeable to the native 
 palate. ')n one ftccusion, 1 remember a inimber of 
 young m(jn, '' just arrived from the country," n^jecting 
 with disgust a large tin of delicious beef, which had 
 not been bestowed U])on them without nnirmurn of 
 dissatisfaction, and only because there was an absolute 
 necessity to provide tliem with food. As they would 
 not eat this, \\(' had nothing left but sonu^ blubber 
 which had been purchased for the dogs and for oil ; 
 this Avas oftcvred tlieni as a (termor ro-sorf, but our 
 fears toi its favourahle reception might have been 
 spared ; it was d(!voure(l \\'\i\\ the greatest avidity. 
 Oi all our stores those most preferred were biscuit, 
 sugar, raisins, or indeed anything sweet, and also 
 almonds of winch w(! had a quantity in our private 
 stock. Tiie passion lor sugar was general . gnat and 
 
THE L\-LfM)P. 
 
 S8 
 
 small begged for it in |)refc'reiict' to fill ahv, and 
 u morsel for u " hi-Nxip " would make* its possessor 
 lifippy for the day. What ou earth is a hi-l<)o|)P ) 
 hear the reader ask. Know, then, that this soiiree of 
 thjiiglit eonsisted of n fragmejit of h^af lolxieeo which 
 etiveloped the scrap of sugar before-mentiontid, and 
 was placed carefully in the cheek, where it remained 
 undisturltedly dispensing its li(|uid medley of sweet 
 and hitter to the iuHnit*^ content of its consumer. 
 Many a brow of cloudy aspect have 1 smoothed and 
 remlered smiling and serene by a well-timed application 
 of this little luxury 
 
 In the evening a mas(]uernde was arranged for the 
 amusement of om- visitors, some of whom, become 
 familiar with the fun, took an active share in the 
 festivities; of these were Omdoo\ah and his dame, 
 hiopincha, thi; lady who munched the candle, and 
 another person vvhosci leal name I (jintc forg(.'t, for 
 we never called him by it ; we knew^ him only as the 
 Tchouski daruly, 
 
 I sup))oso it is an mevitable j)roMsi(>u of all 
 societies that some few among their coiiiponi-nts are 
 doomiMl to act the popinjav, and seek to be estivuu'd 
 by their outward show. The votaiy of Bond-street, 
 the ])etit-maitre of th<! Bonh'vards, were h'M-e fitly 
 represented by oiu' Tuski friend , his (lres.s was 
 
 r, '1 
 
.S4 
 
 A DANDY. 
 
 /.: 
 
 cut mul (lonru'cl in a innrmor cutircly dittiji'lng 
 from the mode ndoptod l)y his Ibllows , pciuhuit 
 tags of h'lithor, imvh strip having a bead, and srraj)s 
 of dycil I'ur aptly ininiickijd tlie frogH and hraids 
 of Ins more advanced f)i'ollM;r ui fashion, nor was 
 he lilind to the indispensal)Ie (puilifications of the 
 fop ; his c(ip and nioeassina were as carefully s( iected 
 as hat and boots elsewliere. Thus bedecked and 
 l)edizened, he strutttid on the scene with an air of 
 self-satisfaction and of admiration, which, while it 
 provoked a smile, incited ratlier mt^lancholy retloctions 
 on the likeness of man here and elsewhere. Our 
 guests weri^ as nuich diverted as we could desire, 
 and night was far encroaclied upon nv they were 
 all dis[)osed in shnnber. 
 
 On the ir)th of January, tht; day b(;ing very fine 
 aiul clear, I' .ptain Moore determined to go in state to 
 \Vo(»i('l, to make a formal presentation of christening 
 gifts to the child baptised on the 2Htlj of l)ecend)er. 
 Attended by a numerous train, his sltMlgc tastefully 
 arranged and surmounted by the Union Jack, he 
 de|)art('d on his errant!, and a short tinu^ sufficed 
 to bring th(i party to tln'ir d(!stination, when; 
 e])aukttes were donned, and tiie ])resents displayed. 
 They consisted of {i black fur dress lined with wliite 
 fo\.skin, liracelets and ?>ecklace of beads, the latter 
 
('HinsTKMN(i PHr.SKNTti. 
 
 85 
 
 iimilc ill the lonii oi" n cross, aiul somr mIIht artii^ics 
 of dress and onmiiiniit, ninkiii«j; :i very tolerable show. 
 After eousiderul>le delay the •hild was hroiiplit out 
 for the nispeetioTi of its sponsors, and a poor little 
 wretch it looked ; dirty, shivering, and blind from 
 aecuiniilation of serous matt«:r, tin; result of neglected 
 ophthalmia. It was very s(ion withdrawn nito the 
 recesses of its paternal dwelling, aliki,' to its own and 
 our rtilief, and the ceremony wound up by an 
 interchange of go<Ml wishes, and the distribution of 
 some of our treasures t»l' provision to the leading 
 niend)ers of the village, and a scrand)l(? of raisins to 
 the children, which put them in high glee 
 
 The fiddle had been brought to aid in tin; fun, and 
 was soon in recpiisition to aceomjiatiy the motions of 
 a troop of nu!rr\ girls, who, hand in hand, crowded 
 full of glee round the performer, urging a speedy 
 commencement of his music, by mimicry and pan- 
 tomimic gibe. When he struck rp a tune they 
 receded in a half moon with niineing step and 
 fantastic evolutions of the head and arms ; the centre 
 then approached, and wings receded ; then all 
 alternately approached and retired <>i) hia^^xo, as if to 
 tenipt their musician to follow, who soon willingly 
 Immouii^d their bent ami imitated lluir motions. 
 This continued t\)r a while, when the dancers broke 
 
b«} 
 
 \ rlJKIOlS DANi'K, 
 
 flh'ir line ;iii(l (lispciscd, u-|ornK(| unci- «»i tvvirr, 
 lirliiiid tlh' |)l;ivcr, iiiiil iidvaiurd upon him uiiiivvivros , 
 Hiid liiuillv \icl(h(l ii|) tluir pliurs to tliroi; filim^ 
 liltit' ciciitiirrs. whose |MM'lormjuu'(;s jihsohitily (^on- 
 viilst'd ns witli hiughf* r , the dunct! thuy practised 
 
 IS vi'iy CO 
 
 tiiDioM )iitioii<r tlic chiidrcii hut W(! ut 
 
 )W 
 
 saw it tor the first tunc, niid considiucd it a truly 
 rcniarkjililc .s[)cctMclc. The dresses of the teiuiih-s arc 
 nmde very full niid haiij^ in I'ohK ; in children tiny 
 niaki' the Hiriire look jMHliiy and s(|iial,and so the 
 
 three actresses appeared as they taretl us in a row, 
 with their toes turned ni ami their lumds tucked 
 nito opposite slee\es. 'I'he attitude hetort! commencmj^' 
 was luirth-provokiTitj, but how shall I succeed in 
 conveying a just afij>rcciation of theu' sid)se(pient 
 moveiueiits? It is I fear impossihle : no art cotdd 
 projujly j)Ourtray the scene, th»' ininiitalde gesturiis 
 
 or the uurivalle<l archness of the whole atlair. Sw 
 
 ay. 
 
 ing bodily, with a sliglit jtaup to either side, the 
 outside ones laced or turned tlujiuselves from the 
 i'entrt! child by turns, she appearitig alternately to 
 court and repel their advjuices , thus they eoutimied, 
 U'hiie re[)C'ating in a nieasiued chant *' Call — -po — 
 moiiif/'n, mdnlah, noinyaty at the end of which 
 all suddenly junipcMl cjuite rour»d,and saying, am — am 
 
 — /////, with ii sort of satisfied enunciation, 
 
 tin 
 
 ew 
 
AND ITS KXl'LA NATION. 
 
 M7 
 
 into their IxkIu-h tlinr oi" tlu* most cxtnvordimiry 
 contortions I ivor bclicld. No one could resist tiie 
 last mmucuviv . wc all sci'tamcil with hnightcr, which 
 hrouglit tears into our eyes ; indeed 1 never witnessed 
 this most ridiculous dance, without a return of my 
 present mirtli. I have nevcjr hem able to translate 
 to my satisfaction tlu- words thcv used on these 
 occasions; hut as they almost invanahly derive their 
 amusements tVctm natural models, and as 1 knew 
 moiuf/ru to he a uiouse or an cwwww, molvta/i, a rahhit 
 or lian-, and iioin(/)'n to mean tail, T venture, from a 
 cousuJeration \^^ tlu' [)automimic motions displayed, 
 to render the sentence thus -- 
 
 Ciitoh 
 
 eniiiiU' 
 
 tllt'lotllll 
 
 tiomgoii, 
 tail. 
 
 or, ermine catch rahhit l>y the tail ; the Knal expres- 
 sions, Urn — mti — uin, uiight sifrnify that the chase was 
 successfully accom])lished, and their accompanying 
 wriggles ])ersonate the struggles of the victim — for 
 ermine do catch rabhits, though 1 never heard of 
 their choosing the tail as the best spot for a grif), 
 their aim ])cing, I believe, invariably the back of 
 the neck. 
 
 Lk'fore we departed from tht5 village, its " oldest 
 ivdial)itant " was brought out to satisfy her eiu'iosity 
 r«;specting the strangers ; but she, poor soul, was 
 
 J 
 
 ! i 
 
88 
 
 THE " OLDKST INII.MilTANT 
 
 i; 
 
 ( I 
 
 sfoiio bliiicJ, so could only fnl our clotlirs and farcH, 
 liiigrriiig m surpiisf upon our luards, \\\\iv\\ wvw \)y 
 this time of a wry rcsjMU'tahli: Icu^jtlt : she sccuicd 
 ninth gratified when Cuptmn Mo«in' sptikc to Iwv and 
 ^nvi' her a littlf tobacco. Wvv aj^r was guessed at 
 hazard to he aljout eiglity, hut with t!ie exception ol 
 sight iioiu; of her senses seemed to he inipauHul, and 
 her hhnduess appeared rather the result of tliscase 
 tlian of age, her eyes heiug hU'iired and sort-, and 
 ruiniing with rheum Indeed ophthahnia is more or 
 less very prevaif'ut here, principally induced I should 
 think hy snou hiindness and neglect. 
 
 We were nin(;h shocked to see U(!ur the village 
 stages erected, upon which the dead were lanl, and 
 ('xposed alike to tlu^ attacks of the elements and of 
 the numerous crows, or rather ravens of immense si/c. 
 which ahoMud in great mnnhers, and aiv literally the 
 scavengers of the coiuitry. These birds have wonderful 
 power of heak ; with a single blow I have known one 
 of them pierce tlie side of a dead and hard frozen 
 dog, penetrating right through to the entrails. 
 
 An earnest endeavour was made on this occasion 
 to show Oindoovah and Attah, who lived Ihtc, how 
 shocking w{js this j)ractice of ex[)osuig the dead ; 
 hul although they appt;ared to understand the ajipeal, 
 it made I fear little impression on then" cold natures, 
 
TltfP TO wnOTAIR. 
 
 80 
 
 l4«ii^ acrnstiuiM'ii t(j tilts iri^littiil iiiilui It u:is tilsu 
 attempted to (>\|iluiii to rlicin tliMt ii(itli«i iiiomk 
 nor stnrs jirc tii'o, as (hcv stippoM-d, Ittii. v\nil<ls, 
 pi'ol)iil)ly iiiliiil>it*'(| likr, out own this sctittcd lo 
 he nstotiii(liti<>; iiitoriiiatioii, and tlx kali, k.ili, kalis, 
 VMirc tVe(|m!iit. Altali was I'cutlily nuuU; tu uiidcr- 
 staiKl the ditfer».'iifr of tivatmrnt attnulitig tla^ jjfiictict' 
 ol" ^ood and evil ; that if tailiii{< to (hi will, >.lic would 
 In- subject to Hfo for u loiij; long tiiin; , ami if (ioin^ 
 right 1), would ascriid to tln> skies ami lie liappy. Her 
 signs of eoiiiprelieiisiini on this occasion were tuiuli 
 ingly snnplu ; she pointed lo the lips of hi instructor, 
 and to her own ears, then laying one hand upon hcr 
 heart, with the otiier she took his hand, and [nessed 
 it uilectionuteiy, 
 
 On th(^ 2Jird of January a tnp was taken to 
 VVootair, the villag<' in which Metra and Mooldooyah 
 resided. I'lie |)aity ciiiiHisted of ('iipttiin Moore, Mr. 
 liindsay, and myself, with sonic of the natives, 
 j'roceeding down I'linina's harboui, and tor a con- 
 siderable distance up the western arm of the bay, 
 we struck right jicross country to tlic westward 
 Soon after (putting the iw, our road wound up a 
 most trenunidous ascent of between two and tlin^e 
 miles ill hingtii ; all were here obliged to dismount, 
 and even assist the d(»gs in their labour, and we had 
 
 
 i \ 
 
90 
 
 ASPKCT OP THE L'OIJNTKV. 
 
 1 1 
 
 I 1 
 
 Ml 
 
 I ;[ 
 
 f)fteii to stop to brejvthe, both dogs and men, so steep 
 and laborious was the acclivity. Wo were quite 
 delighted when the sun becnnie once more visible over 
 the ridge us we attaine<] the summit, whore a lengthened 
 halt was made while th(3 party partook of refreshment 
 with a keen relish We were now upon a large and 
 level plam, which from its a])pt!arancc and advantag(Hms 
 situation for ii-rigution from the surrounding hills, 
 shoidd afford in temperatt^ seasons most excellent 
 pasture. It c(miprisetl Jin area of seven or eight 
 s(|uai'e miles, encompassed by lulls, snow-clad fr<mi 
 summit to base, excepting only where abrupt over- 
 hanging ledges of rock formed an obstruction to the 
 deposit of drift, or where enormous blocks and gigantic 
 |»nmacles of the same material apparently red granite, 
 were numerous, frequently assmning extraordinarily 
 fantastic shapes, as m an instance pointed out by 
 Captain Moore, where a perpendicular ])iece pre- 
 sented an exact Tf.send)lance to an old man widi a 
 pi])e in his mouth. 
 
 We had hen^ a verv excellciit view of three- 
 distinct chains of hills, all of similar config\iration, 
 and evidently, as vvell as the adjacent eminences, 
 and indeed lh(; whole of the movmtains hi this part 
 of the country, of volcanic Ibrmation, mostly in an 
 advunciiig stage, but m many, extinct craters might 
 
 il 
 
ASPKCT OP THE COtJNTUY 
 
 91 
 
 bt! tracetl. The vviiitl from tho S.W. was strong, 
 and hoi'c. swept, down over tho hills in cMldics, 
 raising a heavy snow-drift, wiiich niacU^ us all look 
 lik(! uiillers, rj)on the opposite sidt; of the plain 
 we had to dcseend a long hill, which was not nearly 
 so steep as that by which we niount(3d . At its 
 foot lay a frozen sheet of watei', in which, we were 
 nilonned, was i>lentv of fish : this was either a lake 
 oi- th(? estuary of a small river which we ])rescntly 
 crossed : no tidal marks couhl be sought for, as its 
 edges weie covered with snow. Our road now lay 
 through a long and narrow valley, ar the eiul of which 
 another, but slujrt hill, had to be ascended ; indeed 
 w'c were running across the spurs of a nioinitain-range, 
 and traversed hill and vale until we nniched the shore 
 of a very large lak(^ call(;d Yeeuj-too-oon, four or I'.ve 
 rniles broad, and from twelve to tifteen in length. 
 This affords ])lenty of tisii, and we saw upon it a 
 number of persons engaged in tishing or seal watching. 
 This li'ike was crossed, ami we had now another 
 loilsomc ascent to encounter ; arrived at the summit 
 of Avhich, a coinpreluMisive view of Wootair was 
 presented, spreading over a large extent of land. 
 The huts belonging to Mooldooyah and his family 
 were live in nund)cr, situatt^d upon an abrupt hill 
 overlooking those, twenty m all, which lay in the i)lain 
 
 i' '\ 
 
wgm 
 
 9Z 
 
 DANflEROrS TRAVEl/LING. 
 
 \l\ 
 
 i i 
 
 below where Metra's yarang was. Mooldooyah, with 
 liis wife and son, who acconipanit d us on the journey 
 as guides, now branched off to their own habitation ; 
 the rest of the party contiruiing the journey ov(':r a 
 rough descent, Avhich soon became most precipitous, 
 and indeed dangerous to in(ixpcrieneed drivers. The 
 sledges flew down this at a frightful pace, fre<iuently 
 miming over the dogs ; and lu^re strong nerves were 
 very useful, as a smgle false turn would have; ])recipi- 
 tated us down a slielf, seventy or eighty feet high, 
 upon the ice. Reachmg the bottom in safety, wc 
 made a shoit detour over a frozen inlet, and then up 
 the opposite bank to that just fpiitted, whicli l)rought 
 us directl) in front of Metra's ynnmg, to uhich we 
 immediately repau'ed. This yarang was very nmch 
 larger than any we had before visited, the compai't- 
 ments higher and broader, ami infinitely cleaner than 
 the disg^l^uIlgly dirty habitations we had hitherio seen 
 at Woorel . nor were vile odours |)erceptible, such as 
 there assailed our nostrils. We entered the part of 
 the dwelling ajipropriated to Metra and his wife, 
 which was ke])t in beautiful order — a credit to thi; 
 untiring diligence of the matron. Caymgliche, Metra's 
 wife, suffered 1 think greatly from ill health, and seldom 
 left her yarang, preferring also, I believe, the charms 
 of her household <luties to the rather doubtful 
 
 h t 
 
DOMKSTK KCONOMY. 
 
 '.•;'. 
 
 Cf ymoiit of uhiit is snnu'tiiiu'Si cnlltul " gadiling 
 about." At any rate .she gciVierjiHy ><tru(l at home, and 
 was a hard-work injj;, i)ustlii)(r, tidy soul as one wouM 
 desire to see, a little shrewish perluijis, seolding some- 
 what occasionally,, but then tlioso uum were sf) 
 careless ! and gave so much trouble ' her asperity 
 must not be wondered at And really the place Mas 
 \vr\ neat, the walrus hides od the jrround were briirhl 
 ami clear, not a speck to be seen upon them ; not a 
 stray hair, whieli come out of the reindeer skins in 
 plenty, was ever pi'rmitted to reniain after the nighl- 
 covo'ings were removed ; tin- wooden vessels were 
 bright as dairv pails, and the oil in the lam))s whs 
 always carefully puritieil, ainl the weet-o-weet |moss) 
 wicks arranged with scrupulous regularity. Hy the 
 by, there is consuleralilc skill re((uired in the manage- 
 ment of these lamps . the moss, W'hi(;h has been care- 
 fully cleansed, dried, and picked, is jmt into the dish 
 by hnnd, but after that it is only touched with a small 
 flat stick, used in the most dexterous maimer — a touch 
 here and a flick there — to replace tmy stray morsel; 
 then a rapid pass from one end of the ridge to the 
 (ther, which knocks off the siuitt'y portions and clears 
 the whole line of flame , and lo ! the lamp burnsbrightiy 
 again Tla; women dir very jealous of thes(^ ; no man 
 ever flunks of touclung them, and il was the greatest 
 
 J 
 
94 
 
 \ TOOL RECEPTION. 
 
 trial we ronld nmkt* (»f the Imlies' gooil humo\ir to take 
 up till; tihnniir or stick and coinuierice to trim the 
 li{i,ht, Mhich J may as well iiuuition we nev(;r learned 
 to do properly, and even Yaneenga, in vvliose yai'ang I 
 eonld do jnst as I liked, thongh she never (jrevented 
 m(>, yet was nhv ay sin a tidgrt until I eeasid meddling 
 with the lamp; oin> ninst })e earcfnl too in this 
 operation ; or else the well-nigh I toiling oil spatttu's 
 over faee and hiiiuls most nnpleasanily. 
 
 Prom some eanse nnex])lained, Metra did not 
 a])peai to <'\inee great [)leasin'e at onr visit; he 
 seemed <y>o1. and his nnmner constrained ; and 
 this was the more to be wondered at, as Messrs. 
 Hnnpson ami M.-irtin. who h;ul paid a visit here some 
 days l)(;t'orc, gave a most flattermg aceoniit of their 
 t)'eatnu!nt. T did not, indeed, <;xpect Metrfi, wliose 
 mannei' was always so very deliberate, to display 
 ajiy tVanlie demonstrations of deligtil , but 1 was 
 obliged to coincide with the view that the agrcc^ability 
 of oyw visit wris more than (jucstionable, which was 
 surprising, as this honour mms rarely paid by onr 
 chiti We lia(.l not, howcser, come so long a distance 
 to sit down in di^plejisure and discomfort, and 
 accord I nglv niiule all necessary arrangt:m(;nts for the 
 night's soj(Mn'ii. ilie first consideration being to nuikc 
 some tea and take sn]>per 'io onr own provision 
 
 
 ^ 'il 
 
 J 
 
AML'SKMENTS. 
 
 95 
 
 was added some venison boihsd in the establishment ; 
 of which, however, from the delectable flavour of 
 oil, &c., w^hich pervaded it, a very sUgiit taste sufficed, 
 and we finished from oui' own stores. Supper over, 
 the presents were displayed and distributed by 
 (;a})tain Moore : they comprised a saw, knives, beads, 
 needles, and tobacco, and gave the recipients great 
 delight. After this, determined to keep our spirits 
 up, ahhough the place was fearfully hot — 90' of 
 Fahrenheit — various efforts at amusement were tried : 
 the power of the magnet was shown ; and the sight 
 of some needles, which were made by means of it to 
 (huH'e to music, threw the natives into amazement at 
 ovu' superior mode of conjuring. Next wc had some 
 songs, with tlie fiddle accompaniment, I suppose 
 pretty W(>ll two-thirds of the inhabitants of the village 
 were crowded intti the hut , the curtain of the apart- 
 ment in which we sal was rais(;d, and the space tilletl 
 up with duskv hcjids, wedged into a compact mass; 
 uild shouts and tones of woiuler testified their delight 
 and nstonishnient at (»iu- doings. When we C(!ased, 
 a native dancer, or conjuror, appeared, and, seating 
 himself in the space before us, performed a numl>er of 
 fantastic ( ontortions of face and figm-e, all in a sitting 
 posture, and accompanied by a ccmtinued beating of his 
 lai'ize drum, the noise of which was in that confined 
 
96 
 
 VVOOTAIIl. 
 
 space (luite deafening ll(?ceiving a small present of 
 tobacco, he gave place to two young girls, who, 
 stanclhig, rehearsed a vai'iety of children's* dances — 
 if that coidd be called dancing where the feet were 
 never lifted ; they were rather mimic displays of some 
 subject unknown to us. After these and some other 
 actors had concluded their p<!rforinances, we signified 
 our desire to repose ; the numerous gazers were tluni 
 dismissed, curtains let down, skins of the deer and 
 sheep arranged for bedclothes, and all cokl air care- 
 fully excluded by tucking the bottoms of the pendent 
 walls closely under the inner skins. The lights were 
 then extinguished, one only being reserved in the outer 
 area, where the dogs lay ; and we passed the night 
 very pleasantly, the apartment being warm, without 
 being oppressive. 
 
 Wootair lies upon the shore of a shallow bay, 
 indenting northwards ; a small shallow rive»*, which 
 we crossed in coming, runs into it. The coast as far 
 as this runs nearly west, but from a bold headland 
 projecting from the western extremity of the bay, it 
 trends to the northward. We were told that tlit; 
 river was not more than knee-dt;ep, and only afforded 
 fish about the size of sprats ; its outlet could not well 
 be defined, snow-di"ift so completely disguising the 
 correct formation of the land. Exposed to the whole 
 
(ii;i-F OF ANAPYH. 
 
 07 
 
 drift of tli(' (iiilf of Anadyr, the sea here is rnrely 
 frozen o\ev, and then insecurely : it was now qnite 
 open, a speck on the horizon, evidently the land 
 floe blown off by the vvnid, now strong and cold from 
 the northward, being the only ice visil>lo. This open 
 water is very favourable to the natives, who have thus 
 a chance of catching whales and walrns during the 
 winttii" season ; the mattc^r is of no conset'uence as 
 regards seals, as they will bite through the ice to 
 reach the surface, where they love to lie, alone or in 
 numbers, frequently lor hours. 
 
 \ \ 
 
■jUlni" 
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 
 :>) 
 
 :|| .:f 
 
 Mooldociyiih's Hospitality — Polygamy. -—The Quceii c»r the Yaran^t- — Rejiu 
 diatiou. — The Contrast. — Roiudeer and their Flesh. — Mooldooyuh's 
 Music liotiirn to the "Plover." -OoDg-wyHao. — Distortion of Piwt 
 Events. — Peiplcxity and Persevenuioe. — Tidings, — lleturn to the 
 ship. 
 
 0( R intention (»f remaining here awhile; was aUereti 
 in eonsequence of tlu; \md weather, which [)revented 
 the acquisition of otlier than very cursory iiifonnatioii 
 respecting the position and configuration of the coast, 
 and w^(} therefore prepared to shift our quarters to the 
 Ivibitation of Mooldooyah, not to visit whom wouhl 
 have a[)peared invidious and slighting. The indi- 
 cations of oiu" removal were veiy distasti.'ful to Metra 
 and his wife, who endeavoured to persuade us to stay ; 
 but they had really annoyed us so much by their 
 demeanour, that this had no etftict. C-aptJtin Moore 
 walked up to Mooldooyah's hut in advance of Lindsay 
 and myself, who waited for the sledges and baggage ; 
 but tViend Metra was very sulky, and would not 
 deign to assist us in catching the dogs, which we 
 were reaUy incompetent to d6 ; and it was only after 
 
 'ii"ii( 
 
V 
 
 T 
 
 i I 
 
en 
 
 -i' i 
 
roi.yoAMY, 
 
 09 
 
 frequent appeal ami Home reproach that assistanco 
 was alfordcd. Tht- hags winch contained our instru- 
 ments, stores, and j)n'sent8, wore left hi the tent until 
 we were ready to start ; and on fetching them, 
 liindsay ohservod (^aymgliche inspecting the interior of 
 one, hurriedly closing it upon his entrance. True, 
 nothing was missed, and (;uriosity might have been 
 the motive, but this M-as a broach of the duties of 
 hospitality sufticiently blameable. 
 
 T have briefly noticed the size of Mctrji's 
 ytu-ang, l)ut shoidd mention also the cause of so 
 much space being rec^uired, and its distribution. 
 
 I have not before spoken of the practice of polygamy, 
 which almost universally prevails among the Tuski, 
 and this custom is more than usually remarkable 
 from the singular circumstances attending it. As a 
 general ])rinciple, I believe 1 may assert that only one 
 wife is considered as the head of the yarang ; she shares 
 and regulates the compartment set aside for its master ; 
 and, although seldom interfering with the hiternal 
 arrangements of the other portions, has gem""al 
 superintendence and control over the entire estab- 
 lishment. She it is who, upon the arrivjd of fish or 
 meat, directs their division into the several shares 
 for men and dogs ; to her the husband looks for the 
 correct conduct and performance of the duties of the 
 
 b2 
 
mil 
 
 lOVDITloN «)»• TlIK, WOMKN, 
 
 coiimnmity ; she delivers to tin* HcvernI ft'iiinle 
 iiniOitc'S flicir portions t)f skins to })t' cKmimciI or 
 drt'ssi'd, and other snch work .is luny 1k' jvquircd 
 I tun ot' course, in this »\temh'd view of'her tluties, 
 considering only the condition of the wcHlthier 
 personages, uho generally show greut order and 
 nentness m their unangejnt^nts Many men have 
 only one wife, and h.'W iuor<' than two If th<5 
 chief or favonriti; wife has any r;hildren, they 
 occupy the same ajjartiuent with lierself and lord ; 
 hut the families of other wivcis reside with tln'ir 
 motliers in se[)arate places, which are allotted for 
 their sole use ; and it is, J iningino, g(Miei'iilly con- 
 sidered the duty of the man to afford a liome and 
 sustenance to those wives who have been put aside for 
 some new favourifi", as well as to the children by 
 them : but rejmdiation is ])erfectly recognised ; and 
 in instances of misconduct, and sometimes of dislike. 
 [)ut ill force wit hoi. r scruple or censure. In these 
 cases the niected wife returns to her father's or 
 brother's lodge, and, unless a very bad character, 
 does not generally wait long for another husband ; 
 very often, however, retiiriiing to her original spouse — 
 to be perhai)s again discarded. Each man has as 
 many wives as he can afford to kc^ep, the question of 
 fed l)eing the greatest consideration One wealthy 
 
 i ■ I 
 
POPULATION, 
 
 101 
 
 ill lierds of rcmdeer nmy very fro((iiently iiuliilgr Iws 
 t'diicy tor ' new spoiim*, who of course 8U|t(r.S(!(K'.s tlu; 
 lust us li<;a(l matron, unless, usi Hoinctimcs occurs, she 
 is eonsi(h'red too yoiiiifj; niul inexperienced for the 
 unerons duties of the ottice , in which ciise the two 
 hulies occupy th(^ same iipurtiMcnt with their Imsband, 
 and, strange to say. no signs of jeaJoiisy are ever dis- 
 played, nor is harmony disturlted ; huig custom, no 
 (loul)t, reconciles the females to theses and other as 
 curious arrangemi.iits. It will thus be seeii that very 
 large 'arangs are required to ail'ord shelter to so many 
 persons; besides which a home is often provided for 
 the mother of the master, and possibi} also such of 
 his father's wives as may survive ui widowhood. 
 Metra's yaraug contained twenty-six individuals on 
 one occasion when I sought to ascertain the number of 
 its iuniatos ; but I will not V(;nture to assert tliat these 
 were all residents, altliough such is my belief, as 1 visited 
 the several places at evening, when the outer door was 
 closed, and all inside were certainly going to remain. 
 But some may have been visitors. 
 
 From some attempts at a census which 1 made at 
 ditfercnt periods, 1 consider ten souls to be about the 
 average number of annates in a hut ; as, altliough a few 
 may contain only a poor old couple, or ev en a solitary 
 creature, di-aggmg out the miserable reinanider of 
 
 1 i I 
 
102 
 
 HOSPITALITY. 
 
 :1;f 
 
 their existence, many were very large, and five or 
 six children might pretty generally be reckoned upon 
 to each woman. Thus Wootair could not upon my 
 estimate contain less than two hundred persons, and 
 I am disposed to think it exceeded that nund)er. 
 
 Upon reaching Mooldooyah's habitation, we found 
 Captain Moore histallcd at his ease, with every pro- 
 vision made for comfort and convenience. Water 
 and venison were sus{)end('d over the lamps in prepa- 
 ration for dinner ; skins nic<^ly Jirranged fi^i* couches, 
 and the hangings raised to admit the cool air ; our 
 baggage was bestowed around us with f;are aTid 
 in quiet, and we were free to take our own way 
 of enjoying such unobtrusive hospitaUty, without a 
 crowd of eager gazers watching us like lions at feed ; 
 nor w^ere we troubled by importunate begging, stu^h 
 as detracted from the dignity of Metra's station, which 
 was undoubtedly high in the tribe. Indeed, the 
 entire deportment of our host and his wife, who 
 seemed to have an innate perception of propriety, was 
 in marked contrast to that of him whose appar(!ntly 
 unwelcome guests Ave had so lately been. 
 
 We enjoyed much interestmg conversation with 
 our friends here, any hiatus in speech being supplied 
 by signs, wliicli answered very well. 
 
 This part of tlic country was, we were uiformed, 
 
THE REINDEEH. 
 
 103 
 
 called Ka?iil)tchepoen. I rio not know how large a 
 districi it conipreheiulod, but Wootair was stated to 
 be only a siiiall part 
 
 Neither of the large floeks of reindeer said to be 
 possessed Iw Me,tr;i and Mooldooyah were now hen^ ; 
 the sudden thaw nnd as speedy fall of tt-niperature, that 
 had lately oocurre 1, had formed a crust of i(^e upfjn 
 the snow, whieh prevented the deer from feeding, 
 and they had lluirefore been sent off to a distance 
 where pasture '-ouhl be obtained. There appears to be 
 some dirtienlty in tindinp: good an<1 sntficient food 
 for these animals during the winter, for they were 
 miserably thin at this season, and we saw meat 
 killed in the antunm, which had (pute three inches 
 thick DISS of tat u]>on it. The flavour of the 
 mcHt varies wonderfully Mith the comlition of the 
 animal. I never ate anything snjierior to a [)ieee 
 of cold boiled fat v(?nison, vA-hich Vhmoleeu jirovided 
 for me as a rare treat, for in general the fat meat 
 is set aside for jjemmican, 
 
 During the evt;nmg the amusements of the })revious 
 night were re|»t'ated, a conj\jror ap]>earing and per- 
 formhig many gestures, which we were told wen in 
 unitation of Pnyairkcts, as thev designate the F.srpu- 
 maux on tlu; op])osite shore of America. Occasionally 
 also the inhabitants of Iworien, the island of St 
 
 •■I i 
 
10 J. 
 
 MORE MlJStC. 
 
 Ijawreiicu, v\ ere represented, and the derisive mimicry 
 of tln^ir actions was greatly applauded and encouraged, 
 bcjHg evidently mockery of their enemies. Tlu; distinc- 
 tion between the two people was marked by the 
 American Escpiimaux being represented to wear a 
 bead as a labret on both sides of th<; mouth, and those 
 of St Lawrence but one. The drum beat peri)etua]ly 
 throughout ; the one used on this occasion was of 
 vc]-y large size, more than two feet (hjnueter, and 
 was used by Mooldooyah, who gently tapped it with 
 t\\o very fine united rods of whalebone. 'The sound 
 thus produced Mas ditterent to the ordinary noise ; 
 it was very deep and resonant, but at the sam(> time 
 soft and nnisical , the delivery tf the strokes was 
 unvari(?d, a pause occurnng after two, of the same 
 length wirli ea(;h, but the time, at lirst very slow, 
 mcreased after awhile, and ended in great ra|)idity 
 and >iok'nce, the noise then being quite overpowering. 
 
 On the morrow, alter a coinfortable night's rest, 
 we set ofl' homewards, accompanied by our host and 
 his family, who again acted as guides (^ur route 
 uas different to that bv which we had come, but 
 we re-passed the lake Y»Hnii-too-oon, and a rougli 
 sketch was made of its sliores. 
 
 \\\' saw a fine saimou-trout caught In're through 
 a hole HI the m c. of winch there wei'c .several, with 
 
RETT i RN TO 1' H K " P LOVE K . 
 
 105 
 
 fishers beside thein. On rejicliing the shore of the bay, 
 eonsiderably lower than the spot where we landed 
 on the outward trij), a sudden halt occurred, and wc 
 sow with astouishnient t'lC frozen surface of the bay 
 broken np into heaps and masses, and apparently inter- 
 posing an effectual bai'rier to our progress. But 
 Mooldooyah led the way to a spot his sagacity 
 approved, and darted riglit off into the confusion, 
 followed by the rest as they could ; he guided us 
 across to the ship in safety, but the ice was broken 
 up and cracked all over, with deep lissures runnhig 
 hither and thither. 
 
 We reached the old " Plover," in the afternoon of 
 the 2r)th, having much enjoyed the excursion, and of 
 course now reciprocated their hospitahty to our 
 kiiul friends. 
 
 Several natives about this time spoke of vessels 
 having been seen in the Straits , and although these 
 reports were of a very contradictory natur<;, both 
 as to description and ])eri()ds, it was probable that 
 thev had some foundation m truth which it woidd 
 be advantageous to discover. In this hope, smd 
 likewise with a view to an examination of the coast 
 to the eastward, which by the tleiinciations of the 
 natives was full of inlets and I'cmarkable points, a 
 new excursion was planned to proceed along (he 
 
 ; ■( 
 
 ; 
 
ion 
 
 TEO 8 VILLAGE. 
 
 ii 
 
 ( ! 
 
 T t 
 
 - i 
 
 coast of the Straits as far as Oong- wy-sac, the village 
 of Teo, the lame old gentleman. 
 
 On the morning of the 27th of January, the party, 
 consisting of Captain Moore, Messrs. Simpson, 
 Martin, and Lindsay, myself, and sevca'al of the 
 natives, started in nine sledges iu gay style, ami 
 proceeded by short cuts across country to the penin- 
 sula, or rather long point, on which the village stands. 
 This was the Point Tchaplin of our maps, and derives 
 its name from " Oonghee," a point. The village was 
 very large, consistiug of thirty-three yaraugs, some 
 of which weiv of good size ; and the number of 
 inhabitants was between three and four hundred. 
 This was entirely a fishing station ; nor could a more 
 convenient one have been chosen ; for, stretching out 
 far beyond the line of coast, it conmianded an extensive 
 view of the sea east and west. It was, however, now 
 frozen up ; and the good folks had httle else to do 
 than watch for seals upon the ice, fish iu lakes near, 
 and put their boats and fisliing gear in order for the 
 first occasion. 
 
 We were welcomed with great dehght by Teo 
 and his daughters, as well as the rest of the comnui- 
 nity, many of whom Ave knew, and were speedily 
 ensconced in the large varans; of the former with 
 siicli comfort as they couhl provide. Our wants were 
 
PEllPLEXlNCi CONVERSATION. 
 
 107 
 
 quickly attended to, and tlier*^ was an evident desire 
 to fraj(5rnise in IIk? most cordial style with the 
 bearded strangers, wJiich of course we were not back- 
 ward in respondnig to. It was from this place 
 principally that account> had been derived respecting 
 vessels having been seen ; and all set to work with 
 diligence to unravel as much as pos'^ible of the tangled 
 web, which all people, wliose connnunications and 
 records are purely oral, are siu'e to weave round 
 simple facts, between the occnrnmcc and recital of 
 which any interval of time has intervened. 
 
 Our efforts on this head would have been amusing 
 (Miough to a speculator, but were really rather tiresoiue 
 to ourselves, though many ludicrous misc(mce])tions 
 of the ideas intended to be conveyed were productive 
 I )f uncontrollable mirth. For Teo was \ery d(;af, and 
 not more than commonly intelligent , and thus it 
 was not surprising that wv turned in preference to 
 /a helle Meeco for assistance in surmounting the 
 many difticultu^s occurring, but the old gentleman 
 could not rest contented when not engaged in the 
 dialogue, and would frecpumtly, just ptuhaps as the 
 long-attempted solution of a question hung upon the 
 turn of an instant's consideration, break m upon the 
 confab with some remark perfectly foreign to the 
 subject, lie was veallv very vevatious sometimes. 
 
 II 
 
108 RFl'ORTS OK VESSELS HAVING BEEN SEEN. 
 
 I ( i 
 
 tliat old fellow ; and withal so utterly unconscious of 
 the troublesome nature of his interference, tli!>l he 
 was the more provoking, 
 
 It can scarcely be imjigined how miu^li time, 
 ingenuity, and perseveranct.' were required to obtain 
 anything hke definite informal ion , j«.nd although the 
 employment could not be oiherwiso than interesting 
 and instructive, one felt al its elose wcarv bevond 
 belief. flow many schemes were resorted to in 
 order to gain our i nds ' The whole army of signs 
 brought into the field, with reinforcements oi' sketches, 
 models, and every possibh aid by ev[)ressioji of 
 countenance and inflection of vcuce. Such great and 
 long-continued endeavours could not be wholly 
 unfruitful; and I. thmk, mdeed, \ve had very good 
 reason to be satistied with the inlorniation acquired, 
 as it set at rest anv doubts which had been raised 
 respecting the fa't of ships having been seen. 
 
 We eheited unmistakeablv that four vessels had 
 been observed in the Straits lately, all going south- 
 ward , two of these were ?-epresenled to havo had 
 three masts, and the otiiers only two. One; had 
 ])ee!i se<n sl\ months ; two, live ; and one, four 
 months ag(j ; but from their descrijitions none 
 answered at all to either the " Erebus, ' " Terror," or 
 " Herald There can nou, however, be little doubt 
 
OVn HETTHN. 
 
 109 
 
 that tlie latter ship was seoTi both in going to aiul 
 retiiniiiig from K<)t'/,cbu(; Soimrl in September and 
 October, 1848, to wlijch the dates corresponded ; and 
 one vessel was, moreover, said to have been at 
 Iworien, whieli sidisequcnt infornuition sii(»\ved to 
 agree with the " ITerald's" doings. At the time we 
 were pretty confident that mme of these had anytiiing 
 to do with us ; and, after gaining every scrap possible 
 on the subject, with probably not a few additions to 
 the actual facts, turned to other subjects. We were 
 told that for the n(.'\t two months the sea would 
 remain fros^en, that then lanes and patclies oi water 
 would occnr, and the Straits woidd be <'lear of ice 
 in four months' time. 
 
 The appearance of the ice was very curious here, the 
 sea having frecpiently frozen over on calm nights and 
 broken up with the wind ; the sludge, as it is called, 
 thus formed being driven up with masses of drift ice, 
 had frozen irregidarly into liunps and rough surfaces : 
 mu'.'h of this was soon smoothed over by the deposit 
 of snow, whi(;h was rather decc^ptive to unwary 
 pedestrians. The feet sometimes suftered severely 
 from the sliarj) upturned points of ice. 
 
 AVe spent two pleasant days here, \isitiug the 
 different \arangs and )bjects of interest. Ca[)tain 
 Moore and myself departed on the 29th to retiu'u by 
 
 ■L[ 
 
 
 --> I 
 ' 1 
 
 t 
 
no 
 
 RAD WEATHER. 
 
 the coast line to inspect its configuration. This 
 intention was very nearly fruitless ; snow and wind 
 prevented our observations, and, with the exception 
 of c is(.*oveiing a magnificent land-locked harbour, 
 remarking the highly volcanic nature of the moun- 
 tains, upon some of which snow would not lie, and 
 finding a rivulet proceeding from a hot spring, which 
 at the distance of tliree or four miles from the source 
 showed a temperatm-e of 30" Fahreidieit, we liad little 
 SUCCCL-.S to boast of. Ihe bad weather prev(!nted our 
 reaching the ship this day, and we remained for the 
 night in Malikatzan's yarang — a measure of disagree- 
 able necessity; lor we had only brougb^ '"'ovisions 
 for the day, and Mahkatzan had luui' It \> .].'okily 
 little to givT us. A scrap of walrus fit. 'i v- g made 
 into a sort of soup ; but even hunger could not over- 
 come its disagreeable flavom* ; and wc went nearly 
 supperless to bed, and were glad enough to depart 
 next morning, notwithstanding it l)lew a gale, w ith 
 fearfid snow drift, and a low temperature. We halted 
 for a short time at Woorel, and reached the ship in 
 the evening with great delight. 
 
 - ; 
 
 i Mi 
 
CIIAPTKR Vlll. 
 
 .Idiirney towards Eiwt Capo.— Armngonieiit of VillageB, — Mocosanry to 
 travel with DogM.- -f*iP|iaratioiis. --noceit.— OoHtumo for Tiiivoilnig. - 
 Biul Woatlior. -- Cliftiigti covirso •- Nuowook- -A n«w Tfiate of Kish.- 
 Tchaytcheen.— Modes ot killing Seiiis. — The Snow .Mtorrn. -The Polka. 
 
 I HAVK now arruetl at the relation of a jonrney 
 Avhk'li by fur exceeded in duration, interest, and extent, 
 any other nndertaken dnring our stay liere, and shall 
 give the events of each day in detail, as from thein 
 I. hope it will be fonnd that niueii and important 
 information resp(.;eting the Tuski and their country 
 was gained. 
 
 We continued to receive various conflicting reports 
 of vess(;ls seen, among others, that one was, or 
 had been, on tlie American shore ; several rude 
 charts hail been drawn by the natives, and lliere 
 was evidently so nmcli of important matter to be 
 gained, and so nuuh inti;lligenee to be iiKjuired 
 into, that (laplain Moon; decided on d«5spatchmg 
 a itaity towards East Cape, for the decision of 
 all these points. My friends, Mooldooyah and 
 
 ; ' ( 
 
 I ^ ■ ! 
 
W'Z 
 
 \ n.F.ACEs oi' THE rrsKr 
 
 n 
 
 ! I 
 
 YMiK'fiigii, ii('C)'j>t(;(l iUv (>lti(r (>(' }^iii(J<;s, 1)ciiij^ t'aiiiiliai 
 
 aiu 
 
 1 rl 
 
 U'Vii 
 
 vvitli tik' const. Mini position ot the villaf^os 
 otfircrs had tli«' lioiioiir ol a|»j»oiritin«'nt to this 
 iiiij)ortaiit duty, tliesci were Messrs. 11. Martin, 
 VA' U. Moore, ami myselt It will he mrcssary now 
 to offer a te\s remarks, that flu; reader may the more? 
 clearly eomprtliend the niode in which this and all 
 
 other jouriievs were pevlormed dining our stay 
 
 I di 
 
 The villatri'^ of the 'I'liski an; placed at irreytular 
 
 (list! 
 
 V 
 
 mces iilon'j I lie lim^ ol' coast ; none are ev''i' situated 
 
 inland, as liNlnng is consulereil a great resouive even l)y 
 those who ar«' the pONse>sors of deer, ami u lio iherelon; 
 select tin; localities for their (hvelliiiKs wiih a fwo-t'old 
 
 Mew 
 
 There was ii(»t a tree or even shrub t.(> 1 
 
 )e 
 
 d lor a loni; disti 
 
 (1 althouirh 
 
 lonmi tor a long distance troni nie sea , and aiinougn 
 we miglu have carried spirit hunps tor i'uel and 
 warmth, and fenls jor shelter, these would have 
 inlinitcly increased t hi' hurd<>iis, and were unnecessary, 
 as we (h^sired to proceed by the coast line, to learn 
 its conlignration, and visit each hamlet for niforination, 
 and ill these accommodation for repose could easily 
 be found Added to this, the heavy falls of snow and 
 the astonishing drift which swet;ps over the unshel- 
 tered face uf the country in high winds, so <'onij)letelv 
 alter its ap]»earance. filling uj) the bods of rivers and 
 even whole \ alleys, that it would be rash to advt^nture 
 
 ! I 
 
1 
 
 oriJ STOIU'.S AM. K(il ri'MKNT. 118 
 
 into tlie interior, unless with frnidi's to whom ovcrv 
 fentnrc of the hills wiis fiiiniliar ;is the pnirea of hiis 
 hivviurv to nii '.nvniite , and rvt-n under the most 
 favonrable eireunistanees I should d«>i>ni it at :dl times 
 ha/ardons 
 
 None of our nnndu r had rvcr praetiscd Aretin 
 travellmg , we knew little or nothing of the use of 
 sno^v-^h()es, and it was vain to think of ioju'nevmiz 
 on foot without those appendages . besides wdiieh, it 
 would have been slow and labonous work lo have 
 earrird our stores of |)rovisions, insinuuents, and 
 presents RcuuhHjr would have been deliglitful 
 steeds, fleet n> the wind — and then so ntmantie ; but 
 we knew nothing aboiit <1riving them, nor was 
 then" food to be always easily obtained ; thus wcj 
 eamo to the only easy and eonvcnient mode of 
 travelling, Jianuly, by sle<lges ami dogs, whieh were 
 thert'fon' universally emj)loyed. 
 
 We were provi(h'd witli provisions for twelve days, 
 4 number of tools, trinkets, &e., for the natives, and 
 the iH'eessar) instruments for taking ()bservations, 
 such us the dipping-needir and thermometers, 
 sextants and artitieial hori/(ni, poeket ehronoineters, 
 &c. We also earried a eo|>per fiihUe, madi> on board 
 by our clever armourer, whieli had already visited 
 niori' than one eommnnitv to enliven its mendiers 
 
114 
 
 STAUT von VVOOIIKI,. 
 
 W'v had somo dilti(Milty in obtaininp; as many flogs 
 au wore rofjiur d tor so long a period, as the natives 
 had seldom mon; than one set or " train," and 
 re<|niiid tlu-se for ilaily use : we were (lierelorc ohligiul 
 to taive tlie eaptain's liani until it could he replnced. 
 
 Oti the nionnug of the bth of I'Vhrium , a clear 
 and heautifnl ilay, with the tenij)eratur(^ ranging from 
 ilO' to .'.V hclow zero, out iitth' party started from the 
 ship under cIuhms from our comrade .s, and took tlie 
 direction of Woorcl, wIutc we expected to tiiul 
 reinforcements of our canine steeds. On our arrival, 
 however, we found ourselves wofully deceived, the 
 promises to that eilect weri; ingeniously evaded by 
 the contractors — Attah mvented a ])lausiljle talc, 
 which was, to persuade us that her animals wen; 
 lame, and moreover adrift, and not to he caught 
 without difticulty ; while Anitin had effectually 
 disappointed ns by betaking himself, sledge, dogs 
 and all, to a distance on the sea-ice, for the dvowed 
 purpose of seal-hunting. Hovvever, we were not to 
 be thus checked at tlie outset, and, sending Ahnioleen, 
 who was to accompany us for a short timc^ back to 
 the ship to mention onr ill-success, and bring on the 
 I'luon-Jack which we liad left behind, the journey was 
 continued to Muhkatzan s, where we intended to 
 remain the night. 
 
 m i^ 
 
 1 11 
 'ii 
 
8N()\V-HITK 
 
 11.') 
 
 '11, 
 
 to 
 
 [.he 
 
 as 
 
 to 
 
 On flic roiul thither, we fduiul the cold odiisitlcr- 
 iihlt' ; our ))i|M'8 oottsed to smoke, from tho moistmv 
 t'i)iig('nhng hi them, and two imtivt's, whom we met, 
 pointed oni that Mnrtin's cheek and noae were 
 hegmnins; to t'eel th(! irost, showing iwo white spots, 
 wliich, however, as tliey gave no pain, lie liad been 
 (|uite uncoihsciouH of, and we wlio wen. in line, 
 either in advance of or liehind him, did not see; 
 but rul)hiniJ: his face, sniurtlv vvith snow 8(»oii restored 
 the circulation. 
 
 We reached Mahkat/an's m the afternoon, and 
 unhanies.s. (I for the night • Aiinioleen arrived soon 
 after, havmg traveled fast witli a hght sledge, lie 
 brought the Union-.Iack, and a note directing us to 
 cut out an iii.scription upon wood, stating the par- 
 ticulnrs of our visit, and to put it up at Laureune, 
 whitht 1 \vc were bound. I fear Mahkatzan was but 
 a mggarti, or else his resources must have been 
 scaiity , only a few small fish were placed before us, 
 both frozen and boiled. We did not feel greatly 
 inclmed to make havoc among the first, but discussed 
 the other vvith a better grace ; and with srmie slight 
 addition from our own stt)res we made a tolerable 
 i(.'j)ast, and then retired to rest. 
 
 It may not be uninteresting to describe our 
 ordinary ciuiprnent on this tn[), which I have since 
 
 I 2 
 
 i I 
 
 ii 
 
116 
 
 OUR (MiOTITTNri 
 
 '■ 4!i 
 
 I'! 1 
 
 leajncd to ccuisuJcr too cumbrous, though well suited 
 to rej)!'! cokl , iigainst whicli, however, activity is tlie 
 best iiiitidotc, Oni dress eonsisted of under-gariueiits 
 oi tlauncl. or tleec(?s and bneii, trowsers of ho\-rloth, 
 or breeehes of reindeer or seal-skin, heavy snow-i>oots, 
 which were foinid to be dreadfully inconvenient, liuge 
 frocks or shirts of reindeer skin, uUii the hair ont- 
 wards, over which, in snowy weather, Avas droANU the 
 invaluable okoricho, a welsh wig or woollen rap, covered 
 by a hngc outside one, vvith a long-liaired border 
 (nunc was made of white bear-skin, provided, as was 
 nearly all my excelleni f(|uipinent, by the fon^sighi 
 of Yaneenga") worsted gloves, within large gauntlets 
 
 or mitts, com 
 
 pleted 
 
 01 u' costiuiies, w 
 
 Inch 
 
 increased our 
 
 bulk to double its ordin.irv dimensions, and made m 
 
 )k f 
 
 ook lunns enou 
 
 gh. 
 
 The *Jth was so unfavourable, that we were com- 
 pelled to dela-v ''ur jonrnov. and were sntficientlv oceu- 
 
 pied in taking magnetic observations, revising our 
 wardrobes, and re-arranging the ladings of the sledg(>s, 
 a.s considered advisable, the journey hither hovmg 
 
 sua 
 
 S^ 
 
 ^ted 
 
 ^onie 
 
 fe 
 
 w alterations m 
 
 that 
 
 respect 
 
 ^aneenga, uh(» seemed to consider U8 as her esT)ecial 
 
 es]) 
 
 charges, busied herself m making a pair of deer-skin 
 moeassiiis for Martin, that ho might discard his snow- 
 boots, which were mii effectual preventive to exercise. 
 
OBSTACLES VllOM THl'; WEATHER. 
 
 117 
 
 Tlu' inoniiiig of the IDtli presented an aspect litth; 
 more favoiiralile than that of titc previous day ; it blew 
 liard with a bhndhig snow-drift, but we disliked to 
 remain idle, and set otf at about S a.m. Mahkatzjin 
 iuid consented, npon the consideration of eertani 
 rcAvards, to lend his train of dogs, and our eipiipages 
 were now pretty wcill furnislied. Mooldooyali had 
 four, Yaneenga three, and each of ourselves five. 
 
 Knowing tins innuediate part of the coast suffi- 
 ciently wvW already, it was not intended to go right 
 round it, but to cut a«'ross to a village at some 
 distance to the eastward , and we proceeded with 
 this view for a tinu in very great discomfoit, the line 
 fiercely driven snow blowing directly in our faces 
 and nearly blinding us : just when about to hranch 
 oif to the westward of a range of hills near ihe sea, 
 Mooldooyah, who had several times shown signs of 
 dismcluuition to proceed, stopped suddindy, and 
 ac(|uainted us with his opinion, that it was folly to 
 persevere m I'ac^e of such obstacles , and that he could 
 by no miians feel assured that we should not miss the 
 right (brectioii lo our destination, which was far off, 
 and that in this cast tlu^ dogs, and even ourselves, 
 might perish. 
 
 There was no refuting such argunuiiits ; he knew 
 all about the matter — we nothing ; so, of couise, we 
 
 !1 
 
 ■i i , 
 
 I :i| 1 
 
 ■t 'l 
 
■iii jgtmj 
 
 ]1S 
 
 ARRIVAL AT NOOWOOK. 
 
 acceded to his desire of making for Tchaytcheen, 
 whence, he said we might next day contin\ie to 
 the yarangas before-mentioned. He ac(M)rdingly led 
 the way in a new direction ; but the weather became 
 much worse, and a man and woman who passeit us 
 on their sledge gave up their trip and returned on 
 our track : these indications were not wasted u[)on 
 our faithful and prudent guide, who wouhl not 
 permit us to come to any harm foi* want of caution 
 on his part. He again halted, represented that even 
 Tchaytcheen was still distant, and that the desperate 
 condition of the weather would render our journey 
 tliitlu^r a matter of doubtful success and safety ; and 
 ended by recommending that we should not proceed 
 beyond Noowook, a small hamlet now in sight. 
 The councils of our mentor wire not to be held in 
 contempt, and we submitted to his suggestions with- 
 out dissent, although murmuring at the ill luck which 
 thus checked us in the first stages of our trip. 
 Speedily reaching Noowook, which was a mist^ral)le 
 fisliing station, consisting only of six small nnd dirty 
 huts, we took up our quarters tirst in the habitation 
 of Tclii-gwa. 
 
 Nf^ matter at what tirm; of «Uiy a visitor 
 arrives, food is instantly set before him, generally 
 frozen fish or cold bluMur. to keep him occupied 
 
 I 
 
 
DIFFERKNOES OF TASTF. 
 
 119 
 
 until other viands are got ready, Such was oiu- lot 
 in this instance ; a number of small fish, about foiu 
 inches long, raw and hard frozen, were pla('ed before us, 
 our hosts and guides setting ttie example in disposhig 
 of them. TJnwilling to odeiid their prejudices, we 
 endeavoured to manage a little execution hi this line, 
 but found it rather contrary to our tastes, although 
 fortunately entire congelation disguised st>me of the 
 unpleasant properties attendant on uncooked and 
 uncleaned fish. Sonu; blubber was then brought on 
 and done justice to by all but. ourselves, to whom the 
 simple idea was (piite enough for a meal. 
 
 Tins yarang was very much confined ; ail the smallei- 
 huts have barely sitting height and stretciung length, 
 so that one is cramped foi'room ; and as I was desirous 
 of makhig magnetic observations, ray comrades wrre so 
 kind as to take u]) their (]|ua]*ters in another tent, for 
 the night. The sea was at this time covered with 
 broken ])at(;hes o* ice, a few spots of water, but no 
 distinct " lanes " visible, and it woidd of course have 
 been unsafe to adventure on it. Although striving 
 as much as possd)le to gain and impart information, 
 I found my host so stupid, or so ai)athetic, that the 
 eftbrts werc^ painfully one-sided , even tlie detail of 
 preparations and performance with tiie chpping-needle, 
 generally an object of so much curn»sity and wonder, 
 
 i 1 
 
 I 1 
 
uo 
 
 I'l'llCHAHE A DOG. 
 
 wen- nearly unhecdt-d by hitii. A littk' tobacco 
 rewarded liiin iitnj)ly for ihv sliglit trouble of our 
 visit, and I lay down to sletvp with an earnest hope 
 for a ftivourahle niorroAv. 
 
 The nioniing of the j Ith showed niiieh less wind 
 and drift, but was very misty with (ln//,1ing snow : this 
 was, however, so great an improvement on the last 
 two days that we were glad enough to hasten our 
 departure. We snatched a hurried breakfiist while 
 our steeds were being harnessed, and had the vexation 
 to discover that one of the dogs, lately lent by Mah- 
 k'ttzan, had, with canine fidelity, departed to seek 
 his master. 
 
 Bidding farewell lo tlie meagre dt;nizens of the 
 village, we followed our guide eu nj««?/c for Tchay tcheen, 
 and were so tbrtunate as to overtake a gentlt;man of 
 that township who was driving leisurely homewards in 
 his two-dog sleigh, and who upon arriving at Tehayt- 
 che(!n, which we did in company, consented, for tlu; 
 consideration of about six ounces of obacco, (which 
 in the leaf looks a large quantity, and indeed is so 
 to them,) to replace our lost dog vvith one of his 
 own — a circiimst.'uice highly fortunate for us. In all 
 such t.raiisiuitioiis jis this I left th*; entire management 
 to Mooldooyah having implicit reliance upon his 
 judgment and probity ; nor had we ever any reason 
 
 ■#» 
 
HARBOUR 01' TCHAYTCllEEN. 
 
 131 
 
 to ho (iissaiistietl with liis iUTftngcmonts, in which 
 it must be luejitioned tiro voice of Yauoeiiga hiul 
 much though (juiet iiiiiucuce. VVcll were it always 
 so with wives. 
 
 Tchaytcheen consisted or five small huts, situated 
 under a range of hills, a'ld upon the borders of Tchayt- 
 cheen harbour, which is of a magnilicent character. 
 Tlu! yarangas were mean antl dirty, and the only [)oint 
 of interest it possessed apart from others was the 
 arrang(nnent of perliaps eighteen or twenty heads of 
 whales dis])osi;d in |)airs to rest boats on. I think it 
 not improbable t hat it was usual to keep a number of 
 boats hert; fully provided for fishing, r< ady to be 
 launched at an instants notice, when whales were 
 reported. We desired much to have hngered awhile 
 on the harbour wliich we now crossed, to liiake a few 
 observations for fixing its position ; but our intended 
 halting-place was far distant, and even without delay 
 we could not hope to reach it imtil after dusk, 
 'l^he man who replaced our lost dog accompanied 
 us some tlistance across the harbour, being bound on 
 a sealing excursion. 
 
 The mode of entrapping these animals is ingc;- 
 uious and th-serving of notice. As 1 ! 'fore 
 remarked, the seals make holes in the ice, either 
 piercing it when the crust is light, and keeping the 
 
 i 
 
'TFW- 
 
 ]£2 
 
 SEAL-CATCHINi;. 
 
 i 
 
 place open diiy by day, or ])iting right up throvigh as 
 much as throe or four feet of sohd ice. Through these 
 holes tluy get on to tlie ice, and f^^caierally lie close to 
 the edge of the aperture, but if not rendered shy by 
 frequent disturbance will wander off to some distance. 
 It has always been a matter of wonder to me how 
 they maiiag(; (particularly small ones) to climb up the 
 wall sides of their holes with so little appar(Mit 
 holding powers, Imt they certainly do so with 
 perfect ease. 
 
 The natives, accomplished in all primitive arts 
 of obtaining their prey, y)roceed to their task of 
 capture with perfect self-confidence and d(*hl)eration . 
 two modes are followed, one a simple question 
 of patience, the other requiring much skill and 
 strategy. Tn the first a mound of snow or ice is 
 raised at some distance from the seal hole, l)ehind 
 which, before his prey emerges from the water, the 
 huntec ensconces himself, and where he must wait 
 motionless and silent for the seal to appear, which 
 often does not occur for a long period , great skill is 
 then necessary to seciu'e his victim, as, unless killed 
 instantaneously whsn struck, it is almost sure to 
 escape into its hole. I believe bears have the same 
 mode of catching theni. In the other mode, the hunter, 
 leaving his sledge and dogs at a distance, approaches 
 
SEAL-CATf lIINfG 
 
 12;i 
 
 i 
 
 '.vit.li slow niul sti.'ultliy step until tho seal, which is « 
 particularly waiy creatiiro, iiianitosts signs of piMocption 
 and alann ; when the hunter, watcJitul as his quarry, 
 sinks by almost imperceptible degiees flown upon the 
 ice, and remains there motionless until surprise has 
 subsided, and the sea! once more disposes itself to 
 sleep, but he nuisfc now no longer remain erect and 
 undisguised, nor may his procession be contmuous. 
 Crouching low upon tlu snow, he iniitate« with 
 amazing fidelity the actions of the seal itself, and 
 drags ]iims(^lf by slow and t«)rtuous advaiices towards 
 the hole : his vigilance must now be unwearied and 
 imerring ; the slightest falst? movement, an instant's 
 motion when the seal is looking, and j)lunge goes his 
 prry into the water, rendering all his oare and labour 
 iruitless, for tliere is no chance of a reappeiu'ance that 
 day ; and when one seal goes in a hurry, the rest never 
 wait long behind, shuffling and scurrying along the ice 
 in the most ludicrous manner ; so that iill chance of 
 s])ort is lost. Of this catastrophe the danger of course 
 increases as the distance lessens, and the wariness of 
 skilful hunters is then truly wonderful. The grand 
 aim is to get between the seal and its hole, in which 
 case capture may be considered pretty certaiii, but if 
 this cannot be accom])lished, the chasseur must 
 endeavour to crawl right up to the animal unawares 
 
 ,1 
 
124 
 
 ANOTIIKII SNOW -SroMM. 
 
 1' ! 
 
 mikI striko it dead n\ n l»luw Success l)t;iug attaiiKMJ, 
 till' Imnter now ••oes jovt'iillv oil lor his sledy-c, on 
 \vlii( li he |»l!ires ilie entire oirrMsc of his victim, tV>r 
 file Tiiski lia.'' no toolisji prejnilict's resjx'etiiig oft'al , 
 all |iarts ot the aniinai are useful, and tlieskm is taken 
 otr viMi very ^reaf care and skill, heing eut only tit 
 the lad and Hi|>|UTS, Some of thes«,' annuals are ver\ 
 iarp-e ; u splendid skiu witli tiger spots prciseiited lo 
 me. Ity one of the Tuski chii'l's, is more than five feet 
 long, exchisive of the head and tail wiiich are cut oti', 
 nor was this the larjuest we saw. 
 
 U])on reaching th(^ o[)posite shore of the iiarl)our, 
 we struck of!" to th(^ westward of a ridgi' of hills, 
 leaving t.'ie sea Jind the road to Oongwvsac on 
 lair right ■ this ami other ranges ran in almost 
 regular and parallel lines, in a N.W. dir(!etioii, /iiul 
 dul not vary greatly m altitude, being all ahout lour 
 or live hundred feet iugh. We now halted for a 
 munch, for winch Yaneenga displayed from among 
 lier hidden stores a small <piantity of dr\ ponnded 
 venison ; this was of a vt-ry agreeable Ihivnur, 
 slifrhtly resembling our own peuimican, but posscssuig 
 more tlavour and freshness 
 
 The day had been misty throughout, and while 
 we thus tarried for a sj)ace, fine snow commenced 
 to fall thickly, and obscure our path , increasing 
 
 ! ! 
 
TIIK I'OI.KA UNOKK lUFh'KM'l.TlF.S. 
 
 125 
 
 ( 
 
 licDvily 5's vvc coiitimu'tl on our wny All svirroujidiiiG: 
 ('OM.iiti'} w MOW ('onij)l('((;ly liiddi'u I'lOMi view ; 
 if was ovi'M (litHciiIt for inyscli', wiio always bcouirht 
 U|) the rear, to (listin<j;uisli with clcanicss tho form 
 of oiir ^iii<l('. Mooldooyali wlio notwithstaiiding 
 piirsuud liLs way iiiilu'situtiiifjiy until the Lricf day- 
 light began to decrease, when he showiid oniiiioiis 
 signs of wavcM'ing and donbt, stopp.ing at times to 
 eonsnU with his wife, and peering a)ixionsly into 
 the fast thi(.kei\ing gloom. At last, after descending 
 a liill, and proceeding for a short time ah)ng a l<;vel 
 snrfacr, Mooldooyali came to a <let<M'mined halt, and 
 realised onr fears of his hrving In en misled by telling 
 ns that vve were now on salt-wattT ice, ])rol)ably only 
 nn hilet of the sea, hut he ii'n\ not know what or 
 where — in fact, that he had h»st his way in th(i snow- 
 fall and darkness, and that we must wait nntil moon- 
 rise for light and gni(huice. This wonld not happen 
 for four ()• live hoiu's, set we sat oiu'selves dowai 
 contentcilly to wait for the advent of the (pu^en of 
 night to n'lieve us from our diflicnlties. We proposed 
 indeed to show^ the dinM-tioii of the haul by compass ; 
 bnt Mooldooyali rejected the offer as of little ii?e, as 
 even then \iv would ))e unable to find the road. 
 Fortunately the fall of snow had brought a moderation 
 of the cold, from which therefon we sntfcred little ; 
 
 .. f 
 
 !■ 
 
 \:.^f 
 
 i 
 
I 
 
 "} 
 
 126 
 
 SM()K1N(}. 
 
 and so slightly did tliv condition of affairs doi)rcs9 our 
 Hi)irirs, that several favourite sojigs were sung in 
 chorus, and Martin and myself had a dance in the 
 snow, which deserves the name of the Tuski Polka. It 
 was however rather too laborious an amusement to be 
 lone: continued, as we were heavily encumbered with 
 our clothes, and the snow was three feet deep: 
 recourse was then had to smoking, and sure I am 
 that the severest condenmers of this practice would 
 witliliold their strictures in oiu- case, wliere its 
 indulgence was so grerc a solace. 
 
ciiAPTiai rx. 
 
 Woman's Cure. — Tlio anxious Ouidea.- -A solptnii Ceroniony.— l'r<>l()iij,'ed 
 Misery and a uew IJiHiiBter.— Tlio l)ileimuu. — A Cruel T)oi!0|itioii. — 
 Tlio laHt Ni(,'ht. — A glui-ioua FuMi-ovory -l|(\po and Delivovauoo, — 
 
 Hunger of DogB : itsi Cousequonct*. - -Thirat. Kind Ucooption. — The 
 
 Tuaki Grtrri(^k.- -Tlie Hot. Hpring - New Cookery. 
 
 The I'ising of the nioon brcaiglit ho alteration to 
 our coiulitiou ; so thickly tell the heavy snow-flakes, 
 we could barely tell, by a faint gliuuuering, in which 
 (hrectioii she lay, and we were perforce induced to 
 arrange our sledges for re])ose, following in this the 
 niovenients of Mooldooyah, and aided by the sugges- 
 tions and touch of \aneenga, who was ever watchful 
 of our <'onif()rt ; not more anxious perliaps than the 
 good man, but more alive to our wants, — and — theicj, 
 I need not talk any more to show that woman always 
 is worth a dozen of the other sex for tender care and 
 attention. 
 
 Mooldooyah and his wife \\ere evidently in a 
 state of terrible anxiety for ouj safety ; for them- 
 selves they could have little fear, inured as they were 
 
 (' • 
 
lix 
 
 SHAMANISM 
 
 :'(i' ■' 
 
 » I 
 
 \^> tlif ni^oui of tll( cliiiiMtr, ultlioiigh CVirU tlu' IllltlVCS 
 (K'jjisioiijillv sulliT (Ircjultiil, nnd v\n\ fiitiil mjiitirs l)\ 
 
 such JICCK 
 
 lent 
 
 s as 
 
 til 
 
 |)i 
 
 C'scut. Hut tin nisr wns 
 
 (lillciint as coiu'crucid ilic struu^crs. \v lioso pcvvrtr 
 to resist tin ('Did tlicx were uii!ic(|umiilr(l v>itli 
 hi tins oxtrciuity, Krctiirsc was had 1(» lliv powers, 
 dread Sliaiuanisin ! and whatever peo])le luay think (»f 
 it. I freely confess, thai although l»y no meatis a man of 
 w<'Mk nerves, the maimer of eondiietin;^ the- cert'iiiony, 
 notuilhstaiidmg the simplieity of its details, struck 
 mc with a sensation of awe, and tirst opened tu) e)os 
 to the reid danger \\c were in Qiiittin«; their sledge 
 will) slow and measuntl "^tt'p, the pair removed to a 
 dislunee from us. where Vaneenpja prostrated hers(;lf 
 in the snow, liei hantls upraised above her huried 
 face ; the iiuiu turning first to the west, then to the 
 north and south, omitting — 1 know not why, i)erhaps 
 aceidcmally- -the fourth point, bowed Inmsclf to each 
 reptiatedly . like Vaiieeiiga's, his hands and arms were 
 upraised abov<' his head, and he gave forth a sue<'ossion 
 of cries, which still sound in my ears as I write 
 of them — long wailina shouts, lond, unearthly and 
 despairing, each rxhausluig the Inngs in their tmiissioii, 
 hke a thunder r()|| at first, and sinking by degrees to 
 a melancholy faint iiess In all my UK; I never heard 
 any sounds tu erpial these for liorrible impi'essiveness ; 
 
 ! ! 
 
i)\N(ii:ii(trs I'osiTloN li>9 
 
 tli('<l(iirli\vuil of the Irish, tli(!.slioiit .rtlu- [\vi\ liuliiiii, 
 l)i)fli of wliich I lijivo hcnnl iii fom-. tall fur sln>r( of 
 .Mool<loo\ all's a|i|M>al to Ins fatt-s. 'I'licy picsi-ntly 
 rcliinnMl to rlicir sledge, wlu-ri' I joiiicul flioiii, and 
 loniid Vanccn^a wci-ping profusely Iriit (jiiiclly, 
 wImIc her liiisltaiid sat in inoody siicnn' inid n^plied 
 onl> lirit'rty to my ipicstioiKs. Kn; long 1 refrained 
 my (wn sledpjc and reelined against it until morning, 
 hnt sleep came tardily, and tlien (»iily in broken, fitful 
 
 por 
 
 lions. 
 
 (dumnering d}i\ light on the lj.'tlj brought no 
 prospeel of relief; the suow still thickly falling in 
 enormous flakes, eireunuscribed the vi«>'W at a few 
 yards' extent, and iVIinddooyah eoidd not venture to 
 proceed in any, as the right, direction, nor even show 
 the May oil' the salt-water ice. this, however, the 
 compass enabled us to do, and gaining the shore wo 
 travelled on until noon in great uneertauity, Being 
 still utterly ignorant of our posit ioti, we then once 
 niorc^ halted, obtaining shelter to leeward of a hill, 
 for the wind had risen ami the tempcratuj'e fallen 
 considerably , l)oth these <»ceurrences gave good cause 
 lb)- dread of their fatal efrccts in our exposed and 
 unprepared condition. 
 
 It was dearly uscU^ss to move, sine<! we should 
 wander we knew not whither , patience and hope 
 
 ti. i 
 
K ' ' ""Vr^ — ^ ' " "it W.R,.,^ 
 
 130 
 
 ILLNESh OP MR. MOORK. 
 
 h I 
 
 .[, - ! 
 
 1 1 
 
 were our only trusts, and we remained liere all day 
 without change, once only getting a gliinps(? of the 
 surrounding country, which proved to be table-land, 
 at a considerable height, encircled by hills. Our 
 sledges were so fully and heavily laden that they 
 were of little service as couches; we made holes in 
 the snow and lay in a crouching position, exposing 
 our heads only ; thus a little, very little, niistirable 
 slumber was occasionally obtained, although two 
 days' weariness courted rejiose, A new disaster to 
 one of om* party soon robbed the reniainiler of 
 even this taste of luxury. Our comrade, Mr. 
 Moore, became afflicted with diarrhoea so violeiitly 
 that we were much alarmed on his a(?count, 
 and had, moreover, Init scanty means of assuaging 
 his distress. A small (juantity of spirits re- 
 lieved him somewhat, but he renuiined faint and 
 prostrated. 
 
 This was a miserable night ; darknes.s surroinided 
 us without relief, for we had n(3ither fuel nor means 
 of obtaining light ; the snow, ])enetrating our outer 
 garments, thawed upon the under (clothing ; gauntlets 
 and caps, frequer.tly dropped or mislayed, were full 
 of snow when ivcovered, and little round crystal balls 
 fringhig our inner caps and hair, greatly increased 
 our discomfort. It may thus be imagined how truly 
 
 Mi 
 
MOIIK niSASTK.KS. 
 
 .31 
 
 wretched was our situation, that of our poor niess- 
 nmte particularly, aggravated as it v\ as i)y iilness and 
 extra exposure, 
 
 Auotliev day dawned, but brought no comfort to 
 our now chilled souls as well as bodies. Thiik, dear 
 friends, of the utter desolation and dreariness of 
 uninterrupted snow ; tlie livelong day, th(! weary 
 night, snow, only snow, now falling perpendicularly 
 in broad and massive flakes, now driven by the 
 freezing blast in sluhting sheets which sought each 
 nook and craimy for a restiug-placo In scones of 
 stirring excitement there is nuich to blind one to 
 possible contingencies, or at least they are congenial 
 to the spirit, but thi . our miserabh; condition, deso- 
 late and monoto?ious, called for all the quicksilver 
 in one's veins. 
 
 A partial clearance towards noon stimulated 
 Mooldooyah to a new effort, but no success attended 
 his endeavours, which only created fresh trouUes. 
 \n descending a steep hill, my sledge broke down, 
 and we had only just agani started, after a long delay 
 to repair it, when, at the steepest part of the descent, 
 Martin's equipage turned over and threw him and a 
 large case of peminican out upon the snow. 1 tried 
 to stop his dogs, but they ran, sledge and all, over 
 me and escapetl to the bottom of tlu; hill, where they 
 
 k2 
 
 t ■; 
 1 
 
 t 'i J - \ 
 
If ' ■" ^^"pty n f 
 
 132 
 
 DESCEN'I' OF A IlILI,- 
 
 7 ,1 
 
 were seized aiuJ ht^ld hy Yanecnga, vvlju vvitli tlu; 
 others had arrived thi;re. 
 
 Martin and 1 were now iji a condition of |)er[>lexity. 
 Tlie snow reaehe<l to oiu- hips ; it was tlieret'oi-e usekss 
 to attempt carrying the burden down the hill; we 
 tried to roll it, bnt raised a continually increasnig 
 mass before, and kissed the snow ourselves. One of 
 us now, embracing the case aliectionatily, endeavoured 
 to roll down with it, but soon desisted, lialf choked, 
 and a new experiment was essayed, by riding doul)le 
 on my shidge , l»ut as we rolled off alternately, this 
 scheme silso was abandoned. VV^(; did that at last 
 which reason would at first have suggested; tlic 
 p*nmiican was iulihd in my load, anrl poor Martin 
 had to trudge down the hill by slow and laV)0]ious 
 steps. 
 
 Mooldooyah had now another long lask, two of the 
 sledges being miu h injured. The repairs being con- 
 cliuhd, we moved on again, though witliout kiiuwuig 
 any more of our position tlian before. 
 
 The snowfall decreased shghtly towards evening, 
 ;uul this trifling improvement favoured an illusion, 
 whos<> (liss'oation was a cruel disa})pohitment to us in 
 our jaded and (lispnited state. We were, uncon- 
 sciously, again aj)proachmg the sea, and suddenly 
 Jiailed With transj)orts ol delight what \\e took to be 
 
l !! 
 
 JNTKNSK COLD. 
 
 133 
 
 a collection of yura)i<2;as Strange to sny, the dogs 
 manifested efiually joyous syniptonis of recognition, 
 and need»3d little persuasion to make them quicken 
 their spc^'d towjird.s the so wel(X)nie ohjeets. Alas, 
 wc might have spared our glad hurrahs -, the fancied 
 yarangas were but the l)Ui'e abrupt faces of the sea 
 clitfs, and, as we neared them, seemed to grin derisively 
 at our bitter delusions 
 
 So great a fall of snow liad render(>d travelling 
 exceedingly difficult, particUi.arly with sucli lieavily 
 laden sledges ; the dogs could scarcely flounder along, 
 and we were constantly obliged to lift one or the 
 other runiuir from its d(?e}) I'urrow. These continued 
 efforts were, in our exhfiusted plight, jjainfully 
 laborious ; and the entire iielplt^ssness of Mr. Moore, 
 vvlio still suii'ered from his complaint, added greatly 
 to our fatigue. 
 
 We stopped at lasl, from sheer inability to pro- 
 ceed, in the mouth (»f a small inlet, l)or(lered by 
 steep banks, and passi.'d a night of misery and sus- 
 ))(!nse, far worse than any of the preceding The 
 wind, sweeping remorselessly through the gorge, 
 covered us with sn')W-drift, and sought to freeze the 
 V(r;y marrow m our bones, the temperature having 
 ajjain fallen cousiderablv. 
 
 I ' ! 
 
 i I 
 
 1 I 
 
 ^J'hal 
 
 night 
 
 is imprinted uulelibly upon my 
 
134 
 
 AllIMVE AT OUK DESTINATION. 
 
 11' 
 
 i ': ■ 
 1 'V. 
 
 > 1 ; 
 
 luemoiy -. never do I recall its tardily passing 
 moments without shuddering at the thought of what 
 might have been our state next morning. That we 
 were not all frozen to death will ever he a matter of 
 wonder to me, fci' our under garments had been 
 completely saturated with melted snow, and our 
 outer dresses were rigid as boards. The morning of 
 the 1 4th presented little to justify more than a faint 
 hope of relief. A heavy mist hung around, obscuring 
 the scene as much as ever; and although we 
 jom*neyed on, it was in a circle, for we crossed our 
 old track. Between nine and ten, however, the mist 
 cleared off, and gave us a considerable view, by which 
 fortunate chance both Martin and Mooklooyah recog- 
 nised a headland afar, and tiien knew that we were 
 in Oong-wy-sac Coy-ee-mak, or Oongwysac iMubour, 
 and conse([uently could reacli the village of OongA\ysac 
 ere night. We directly took bearings, in case the 
 weather should again thicken, but it cleannl as the 
 day wore on ; and using all the very moderate 
 dispat( h we could cxerl, Oongwysac was reached after 
 n laborious travel of ten hours. We arrived at the 
 yarangas in a condition of complete exhaustion ; and 
 here c ir first cry was for wat(.;r. For water ! with 
 snow in such ])r<)fusion around ! Even so, good 
 friends. Tiii»st was one of our greatest sutferings, 
 
w\\ 
 
 SUFl'KRINOS FROAI TlllUST. 
 
 135 
 
 which eating snow only inci'eased, from its inthumntt- 
 tory effect. Our poor dogs were ah ost famished. 
 Mooldooyah would never allow us to giv(; them our 
 own provisions, both because wc rniglit not bo able 
 to spare them, and also that, as he stated, they could 
 go without food for three or four days, in cases of 
 necessity : the small quantities we nevertheless per- 
 sisted in giving them once or twice, were by far 
 inudequate to their wants, and the conseciuence was, 
 that when we halted at nights, the dogs, burying them- 
 selves in the snow as usual, quietly gnawed away at 
 their harness, which was of scfd-liide ; and hi the 
 morning, when attcmpthig to depart, a solitary dog, 
 re])resenting tlie team, would possibly emerge from 
 its lair, the rest having entirely detached themselves 
 from the sledges ; they had then to be sought for, 
 and harnessed with whatever coidd be found. 
 
 My companions and myself repaired to the yarang 
 of Teo, our guides taking up their abode in another 
 belonging to a friend cf theirs, Yappo by name. The 
 united, barking of the wliole assembly of dogs, 
 including our own, scon caused the yarangas, closed 
 at dusk, to re-open, and we were welcomed with 
 eagerness, which, upon a knowledge of our sorry 
 plight, w^as changed into bustling assistance and 
 yxclamatious of sympathy. Scarcely were we 
 
 '■ 1 
 
■ Il l . 'I ' ' ..:-X.- 
 
 m; 
 
 ( ) \ 11 ST A V I N I' V.t. ) S Y A K A N ( i . 
 
 
 permittee' to retain free motion. Moore, who uas 
 crreatlv exliaiisted, was tended like a dying man, and 
 wo were speedily relieved iron: idl 1 roubles save 
 tlie prostration vvliieh ensued on this long and 
 painful trial. 
 
 Wariiitlt and repose soon restored MartJJi and 
 myself to the powei- of renewed exertion, hut 
 Mr. Moore remained in a xc.vy ft^eble statu, and 1 
 wrote to Captain Moore ne^t day, detailinj^ (jur 
 misliaj)S, and communieated our opinion that he had 
 better return at once to the "I'lover." 
 
 It was resolved tliat we shoidd liiiuain liere until 
 our strength should be recruited, when, if the answer 
 from Captain Moore should be favourahle, Martin 
 and myself would endeavour to renew the fultilment 
 of tlic objects of our excursion, thus disastrously 
 imi)e(UMl, The interval of repose was broken only by 
 scientific and other (»bservatious, and visiting the 
 various yar[ingas around us Desiring to communi- 
 cate with our guides, I sought them in the hut, to 
 wliicli they had overnight repaired , they had already 
 gone forth, and I wivs directcil to a very large ynrang, 
 whither they had goiKi. On entering, 1. found my 
 friends, and had also the good fortune to witness a 
 national jjerformance' cf a purely theatrical nature, 
 which was curious as unexpected. In this large tent^ 
 
 ■?! 
 
NATIVK MIMICHY 
 
 1 .'17 
 
 ii iptXMitly ci-ccU'd for and devoted to ))iiMi(; pur- 
 poses (possibly as a coimcil-rooiu as well as theatre, 
 tor in plaee of the usual inner apart ineuts, only a 
 species of beneh, of raised earth, ran around 
 it), vvei'e seated uuuierous spec'tators. Yaneeuga 
 made rooru for me beside her, and I liad a 
 plain view- of the solitary actor, who sustained his 
 part with extraordinary skill, activity, and ejidii- 
 ranee : tiiis jX'rforuianee was a rej)res(vntation of the 
 j)raet«;x'S of the Pa-erks (i. e., Es(|uiuian\ ou the 
 upposite shore of thf straits :) I had before seen 
 this slightly attempted, hut the present was evidently 
 a stat(^ occasion, and all details were carefully 
 ))resented. lie inutated with extravagant action — 
 padi'Iiug, eating, and drinkhig, looking for an enemy, 
 lighting, and hunting the whale, in which the eilbrts of 
 the men and the struggles of the animals were gro- 
 tesquely depicted, and he gc^stieulated throughout with 
 furi(ms energy. Two nuisicians seateil Uj)on the earth 
 heat mcessjuitly u])on their drums ; their i)erfornninc(^s 
 seeming to bt- an nulispensably necessary addition 
 to the sport. 'J'he spectators a))plauded votii- 
 ferously, in a mamier scarcely less interesting than 
 the scene they [)raised, any incident more striking 
 than the rest eliciting interjections of kah ! kah ' 
 kah ! " da capo diminuendo," and a low running 
 
 I . i 
 
 1 i 
 
188 
 
 THE FArrLTY Ob IMITAI'ION. 
 
 1 '•; 
 
 gur|;,le of appro i/al with ii continuoris tUougli sub- 
 dued current of conversation, occasionally breaking 
 out with the elders in short notes, to their feUows 
 or the actor, of satisfaction at his efforts. By the 
 very general interest displayed, I have Httle doubt 
 that he was the Garrick of his tribe ; indeed, 1 
 never saw any other anu)ng them so expert as 
 himself by numy shades : the poor fellow deserved 
 applause if only for the labour of his petfornumce. 
 It may briefly be noticed, that he was clad to 
 resend)le those he mimicked, having among other 
 peculiarities, only one mitten on — a famihar tj-ait 
 of Es(|uimaux — and threw into his action, tones 
 ami e\})ression, a character so entirely foieign to 
 his own that one would, unwarned, fail to recog- 
 nise him as of the Tuski. T was nuich im|)resse(l 
 with the view of this spectacle. Here, on the 
 extreme of a sf^-rjjje and desolate waste, on whose 
 edge only a \y-\\ uncivilised persons are scattered, 
 the imitative faculty of man hi\d l)urst forth without 
 exam[)le, his untaught and unaided ingenuity develop- 
 ing itself in a thousand instances. The contem])lative 
 mhid cannot but find in all these things indications of 
 the nnivt;rsal superiority of man over the brute — ample 
 f(joil for reflection u[)on the mightiness of the Power who 
 bestowed reason to direct and capability to perform. 
 
 ti 
 

 KXCUHSION T(» A ll(»T.j^^Ml[\o. 
 
 Ud 
 
 The fiu" of tlio country was m coiiiplctuly liidilcn 
 (lurinfij tlio winter, thai \\r wt;iv uuiiblo to remark 
 upon its features anil coiistitution ; [ioeuk;ut revealed 
 tlie information timt black -lead ore exists on this 
 coast, particularly upon the |)oint on which we now 
 were; two species of ochri; are also found, but more 
 rarely, and are e\clian;j;ed at high ])ri(.'es with the 
 denizens of distant villa<i;es, bein;^ held in gr(!at 
 estimaticm as dyes, aiul tor panitiug ii])oii s;khis, 
 paddles, &e., for which i)lack-lead is also extensively 
 used. We obtaini'd some; frish venison here from 
 one of the natives, who had lately purf;hasf;d it, and 
 found it welcome alike as a change and to the saving 
 of our provisions, 
 
 While awaiting the return of our messengrr to the 
 ship, 1 made an excursion to a hot-sprinj3% not far 
 distant, in company with a Mr. No-tak-en, whose 
 interminable garrulitv was su[)|)( rtul»le only on such 
 an occasion when one di'sired to accpiire all the 
 information possible ; but he was very obliging, 
 thinking no trouble too great in the service of a 
 friend, and this was a savmg clause m his disposition. 
 (le took care to ])rovide mocassins of seal-skin, to 
 be assumed npon arrival at the stream ; a number of 
 small raw fish, and one or two blue beads ; but what 
 he was going to do with either of these 1 had no idea, 
 
 I ; 
 
i 
 
 1 
 
 (I) 
 
 MOT SI'MINU. 
 
 I "' 
 
 i !' 
 
 I *' 
 
 I:! 
 
 and Irl't tlir issue to the I'ulure. A plciisaiil run ol 
 two hours — Cor having i'lnptv sh-rl^os our (lo*rs s|)(HMl('d 
 iMnrrily ulou^^ — hrou<^lil us to a line of lu<i;h sti'cp 
 l»anks, un(h'r a range of rounded ]»[n"reii hills, all now 
 envelopo<l iii snow. l<"iig tie vm reached the sprinjj;;, 
 clouds of vapour hanging ahove, and the stre-ani 
 proceeding from it, showed where it lay, at the foot 
 of ii high hank, ovciliung ni a very curious maimer 
 l)v a cano]\y of snow Drift luul, I eonjeetiiri!, fust 
 formed in a mass abo\i', vvliich the action of the 
 vapour had hollout-d out insi(h' until a sort of cjive 
 of eonsidciabh' height was foruwil ; the melting snow 
 and lieated vapour had encrusted the inner surface 
 with u snu)oth and glassy coating of ici', in whieh 
 numerous ajtertures, in beauli'u] eiystallisation, per- 
 mitied the vapour t(j escape in vohmu'S ; (k'pending 
 icicles, like fragments of felspar, addiid to tho 
 
 a|)i)earance of tliis curious cave 
 
 rn. 
 
 pictui'csque ap] 
 sjuing was not .it this time boiling at the surface, tlio 
 thermomi'ter shovvmg only 1 oO of Fahrenheit; the 
 water was strongly impregnated with salt and oiher 
 sul)stances, having a mingled taste of iron and topper, 
 and liittir as gall In the cauldron or basin of the 
 spring I found a blue bead, which, however, 
 No-tak-en carefully ri'jtiaced, at the sjiine time adding 
 two or three of those he had brought, and telling 
 
 
 I *' 
 
iu:ti HN riu>.\r oiu rxci it^iov 
 
 111 
 
 MIC to do likewise. Uy Ins signs and replies to my 
 • pieHtioiis I was led to helieve that these were phired 
 there ais an ott'erinj^ to the spirit of the sprinj,', Init 
 I uifiy have erred as to his meaning, i'ossihiv the 
 real intention was to ehaiigi; their eolour by the 
 elieiideal action of the water. 
 
 Fnmi the bed of tlie stream 1 obtained 
 
 "iome fraLT- 
 
 ments of fossil wood, which wonld lead one; to impute 
 a petrifying prop<>rty to the spring. The lish whieii 
 No-tak-c)i had brought he placed in the stream for 
 aliout hall an hour, tlien presentid them ( 
 
 to nie as 
 
 cooked ; for curiosity's sake 1 tasted them, and foumi 
 tl):it tliey had become ii» a measure stewed, but, at 
 tli<^ same tin.e, had so ihorotighly ind)ibed the 
 ingredients of the water as to be quite unfit to eat. 
 Two s])len<li(l al|)ine hares, with coats of long and 
 spotless fur, trotted leisurely off as we arrived, and 
 renifiined up(»n the ])r(nv of the hill watching us : we 
 liad unfortunately brought neither gun nor bow, 
 so that they were safe from injiuy. After liaving 
 examined the spring ami stream w^ith great interest, 
 1 retJirncMl with my (xunpanion to Oongwysac much 
 pleas(>d with the excursion. 
 
 i^W 
 
 ■I ! 
 
 § 
 
(3IIAPTFJI X. 
 
 
 I r 
 
 I 
 ■ )' I 
 I 
 
 , ! 
 
 
 Way to manapro Natives. — Tho Mni.'iciil M;ignot.- Quit OonRwyRac. - Tlio 
 DoBertod. -ACoiirtus. Muy-tciniooiuiii. Tunki Ghiiioh. - 'I'lio trial o{ 
 Hpoed. — Tlio Wri'Htloi's.- A largo bour-Hkiu.— Tuski bmvory.— Combata 
 and Marks.- -Tho Orcek C'i'o«h.-A AVaiuIi>ror'n fate— A ilina^jrueablo 
 dirck. — I Moless itiKtructlDn. A \<'u'viy \t( y^ood luck. — Vun<laiigali 
 — Ah-nio-lenu. — A Tuski gmitloman, — A Tuaki villa. — HoBpitality. 
 
 DuuiNu our stay licrc, ns upon nil ])iiicti(.'fibl(^ 
 occasions, wc used strenuous endeavours to obtain 
 and'iinpurt information; we had sometimes slight, hut 
 very often gratifying results. Wlien l)eeome a little 
 experieneed in the art of eonanuniealing with 
 primitive people, 1 found my best chanees of success 
 to lie in first imjmissing tliem with feelings of respect 
 hy our apj)arent snj)eriority and performance of 
 mysterious o])eiations, and then to engage their 
 attention by exphination of these seeming effects of 
 magic. 
 
 01 all things least open to their comprehension, 
 the powers of the magnet were principal. I found it 
 quite useless to attempt a solution of the mystery, 
 and was necessarily content to leave it enshrouded in 
 
 
 
WONPFH \T T!ll M\(JNKT 
 
 u.-^ 
 
 darkness. Tlml it could lilt won mid steel, make 
 needles dance, and irnpnrt its wonderful powers to 
 otlaT portions ol' inelal, wen; pheiioniena wiiicii were 
 ascril)cd rather to our wizard (pialities than to its 
 own merits; and tlie natives continued to rr^ard 
 all operations in this n^speet with u nnxture of Tear 
 and wond<u'. 
 
 The niessongcr who had been (h>spatehi'd to fho 
 sliip returned to Oongwysae \vith frcs'i histructions, 
 and a further su])ply of provisions foi us, pc^riuission 
 deing aeconh'd for the resumption of the jounu'y 
 by Mr. Martin a)id myself; Mr. Moore, «;. course, 
 returning to the " J^lover." 
 
 The morning of the IDth — for we had been four 
 days detained at Oongwysnc — saw us once more astir 
 upon our journey, refreshed ami. ri'-invigorated : the 
 day was clear and sunny, and wc sped along the 
 hardened snow without a halt, taking to tiie sea-ice, 
 aftiT passing the ])oint we had (h'.scried with so much 
 joy on the morning of the i Uh. 
 
 We j»assed the island of Tchavlook, which rises 
 rocky and a])rupt from the water to th<> height, 
 perhaps, of ~()() feet, and continued, alternately 
 traversing strips of land and arms of the straits, until 
 considerably past nightfall. Oiu* guides were again 
 slightly at fault on this oci*asion, as the huts were 
 
 >; 
 
-^•wiwnppj;;: ■ 
 
 lU 
 
 Al'KOHA HOHKAMS 
 
 iipoij tlu; slu)i'(! of H sinall island oi' fK'iiinsiila (wc. 
 could not, from the mass of suowdrili, tell wliich), 
 and mist lay low down mxvn tlic liori/on. Aftorsonio 
 tlclay, howiner, we turned of! to tlu: cast\Nard, and 
 soon disi'ovcjvd tliem. The am'oia boivalis was dis- 
 played this iiij^lit in great beauty; it lay like a fringe 
 on a dark bank of elonds which bounded the? horizon : 
 the effect was almost funereal. Having arrived here 
 at a late hour, we delayed repose only to take refresh- 
 ment ; and set oft' again early next morning, after 
 presenting our host with some tobacco and his wife 
 with a few beads. We halted at noon on the sea- 
 ice to obtain the latitude , but our guides speedily 
 tired of vraitiui^ and set olV before us to a village on a 
 hill in sight, at some distance, Avliere they were to 
 await our arrival. Martin and T> having concluded 
 onr obser\ations and a sketch, icpacked the instru- 
 ments u])on the sledges ; and hv then mounted, and 
 .set off' a little before I reached my carriage : my dogs 
 were up and off' m an instant after his sledge, and 
 both teams, gaining sight of the huts in the distance, 
 raced towards them at full speed. Martin could 
 not stop his dogs ; it was hopeless to expect mine 
 
 to halt, and away they all siampered, leaving me 
 to tret <jver about two miles of distance a- J best 
 
 
 nuj 
 
 dit 
 
 i 
 
\ FISHTNC Ml, LACK. 
 
 145 
 
 I was fully dad in riding oostmnc, tor die tempe- 
 rature was very low at this time, and the snow-crust, 
 only sufliciently thick to bear dogs and sledges, broke 
 ni and let me through as far as my knees at each 
 footstej). The holes thus made were only just the size 
 of my feet, and I was therefore obliged to lift my legs 
 pcrpendicularl} each time. My toil may be imagined ; 
 but a third of tu.^ distfince was accomplished with 
 dreadful fatigue, when Mooldooyah, seeing and a])pre- 
 ciating my difficulties, despatched one of the villagers 
 on my sledge to my deliverance. After a brief ludt, 
 ne contimu^d on until ev(!ning, when another village 
 was reached, wluire we obtained lodging for the niglit. 
 A spring of delicious water was passed to-day it 
 showed a temperature of 41. 
 
 At Nootehoome, thrcmgli which we passed during 
 the t!lat, we stopped for a short time, mon^ to satisfy 
 lh<^ curiosity of the inhabitants than foi- our own 
 convenience. It was a fishing \illiige of eight huts ; 
 aiul 1 obtained, with considerable pains, a rough 
 statement of the population ; but, although considering 
 it near the truth, will not vouch for its correctness: 
 these huts were all very small, and did not, therefore, 
 reach the general average of number. The inmates 
 of each hut were gi'en as follows : — 
 
 f ! 
 
 I 
 
 
f 1 
 
 o - .~t . 
 
 '■' I 
 
 'I- 
 i 
 
 \U 
 
 
 
 A OKNssUS. 
 
 
 MBK. 
 
 WuMKN 
 
 (1) 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 (2) 
 
 ;} 
 
 2 
 
 («) 
 
 i» 
 
 I 
 
 (4) 
 
 15 
 
 3 
 
 (<->) 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 («) 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 (7) 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 («) 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 }) 
 
 i.;iiii,I)Ki:n 
 O 
 
 5 
 2 
 2 
 1 
 4 
 1 
 2 
 
 19 
 
 Total 
 
 U j»ev80iis. 
 
 N 
 
 Tliis gives fill avoragr of iivc persons to ciieli 
 habitation, whieli, for the size of i\w. yarangas, iviay 
 be considered greater than usual. 
 
 Bestowing a trifle upon our informant and a few 
 others, we pursued our way without matter of great 
 interest until reaching May-tehoo-emin, a vilhige 
 situated on tlie border of a harbour of considerablt! 
 capacity and convenience, called in the charts, the 
 Bay of Mechigine We remained here for the night, 
 and found sufficient amusement and interest in infoi-- 
 niation gained, and a further exhibition of native 
 customs, which was, I believe, ])erformed for our 
 edification. 
 
 A shed or covered stage, erected for the protection of 
 boats and fishing-gear during the wmter, stood in the 
 centre of a level plain fronting the huts, A number of 
 the young men, starting at a given signal, comm(;ru'(>d 
 to rvm round and round this shed, always keepmg at 
 
 ' 
 
(CRIOUS THIM, Oi' SI'KFA'CiTIl 
 
 147 
 
 r-,..^ 
 
 !3 
 
 a ccilaiu <listanr(* from it. Tiicv contmiuul tor a 
 very considerable time in motion, at last one bv 
 one dropped off from exhaustion, initil two only 
 remained, between whom the struggle was piotracted 
 and severe. The objeet of this trial behig td ascer- 
 tain superiority of endnranci-, rathei' than of sp(!ed. the 
 
 )aee was no 
 
 t ra| 
 
 lid, 
 
 \)\\\ it was. nevertheless nn 
 
 perative on the foremost runner to retain his advance, 
 and this law caused some hard struu-gles for place. 
 
 I was confirmed in my view of the nature of tins 
 speci(>s of match by observing that The competitors 
 were not allovAcd to divt.'St themselves of clothmg, 
 biit raced in compi(Ue costume, and that they wer«' 
 j)ermitte(l to provide themselves with tlu' ])ecnliar 
 stick which i.^ used bv them in travelling on snow or 
 
 ice 
 
 'IMus is a lonjiT thin staff of drift-wood, shod 
 
 it the foot with pointed ivory 
 
 ted 
 
 or seals' tooth, and 
 
 furnished with a circular frame. ^en(>rally of whale 
 
 )OI 
 
 le, sometimes si\ or eight mclies in dametei 
 
 atta(;lu'd to it three or four inches above the shod, 
 tins frame is covered with a net-work of hiiUscord, 
 and its use is intended to prevent the staff going 
 
 del 
 
 ) in 
 
 ll 
 
 le snow, 
 
 md so trip])ing him whose 
 
 support it should be ; it is a valuable acipiisition, 
 particularly with snow shoes. 
 
 When this game was concluded, and our plaudits, 
 
148 
 
 WHKSTLINO MATCH. 
 
 i! 
 
 Ml 
 
 with more substantial tokens of : pprobation, had 
 been bestowed upon the winners, two gladiators 
 entered the arena, nude to the waist, and aft* rolling 
 in the snow to refresh and render tlieir bodies moist 
 and slip()ery, like those (jf ancient Rome with oil, 
 they cr-ym iiced to wrestle m a })e('uliar and rather 
 violent manner ; the prinripaJ aim was to seize the 
 arm, but they also took hold of each other's hair, 
 and some rather obstinate contests took place, 
 hea\y falls and cnsangnin* d visages showing the 
 severity of the mimic strife The muscular develop- 
 ment of all the coml)atants was generally very fine ; 
 small and large men alike showed compact, solid 
 frames with both power and activity. It was 
 amusing enough to see them rub their bo(hes briskly 
 with snow, and return to the encounter with renewed 
 vigour and spirit - 
 
 We learned positively that a vessel (ap})arently a 
 brig) had entered May-tchoo-ninin haibour, and 
 remained th(;re for a consider!! ble time, that she came 
 fi'oin tln^ •' Paerks " land, and vvent towards 
 Iwor-i-en, when there was no ice, but our informa- 
 tion beyond this point was I'ather too vague for 
 rrluuHH'. \Vlien she liad been here, and how long, 
 or of what country she was, wer<; poifits which only 
 a future \isit can determine. 
 
 i.l: 
 
f l\ 
 

 
 //_. 
 
 ! I 
 
 '\-re//0:-^ 
 
 " 'Nr.L_ ._ 
 
 
 > — 
 
 ""ma 
 
 tna 
 ft a I 
 
 MKMKNTO MORT. 
 
 
 riiKi'i.ii. 
 
KNORWors BKAH-SKIN. 
 
 1 li) 
 
 We were in the habit ol' hurterijig for skins of the 
 fox, sahio, and others as tlicy ottbied, and had 
 purchased a few at difterent viihiges hs wc passed. 
 Uj)()ji the sJicd or stage J have ahove noticed was a 
 niagmticeiit white bear-skin of an enormous size ; on 
 my requiring to see it, four men lifted it otf the 
 scaffold with difficulty and placed it upon tJie snow , 
 true the skull and paws hnd been retained, and the 
 skin WLS what is technically ti'rnjcd "green," that is, 
 moist as when taken ofl' the carcase, and il was also 
 hard frozen ; but an idea of its great si/e may 
 nevertheless be formed from its wciirht. I endea- 
 voured to purchase it, but thought 1 saw n disposition 
 to extortion, which 1 would not encoiu-age, and 
 therefore refused the price demanded. Such skins 
 are valuable to these peo[)le, as these animals vnivly 
 appear so low down on the coast of the Frozen Sea. 
 They arc attacked without hesitation, fre([uently by 
 single individuals, and sanguinary contests are the 
 resuli. We met one man who was said to luive 
 encountered a huge and savage beai' with only a 
 species of larg(; dagger-laiife, and to have succeeded 
 in despatching it. He was frightfully injiu'cd in tlie 
 contest on Ins breast ; five luige scars caused by the 
 claws of his adversary ^^ ere visible , a terrible seam 
 appeared on one side of his face, and he was, more- 
 
150 
 
 TATTOOINC. 
 
 ' • ! 
 
 i i 
 
 over, crippled for lifV. roitions of the skin of Ins 
 antagonist, wliich hung in his yarauga, were |)ointi'(l 
 out by hhu with griiit satisfaction, and he proudly 
 displayed the tattooed marks on his chest, won hv ti»is 
 dearly-bought victory Subjoined arc fac-similes of 
 othei such marks copied by myself from another 
 num's breast on which they were })ricked. 
 
 
 The ingredients for tattooing an^ tzow-gwit-/o\\, 
 red ochre ; toong-e-rillery, black-lead, ami some kind of 
 blue like indigo ; but this last I never saw, and do not 
 know whethiT it is an indigenous or acfpiired article. 
 
 Some of the '* Plover's" men were, as is common 
 among sailors, very much tattooed about the arms 
 and breast, and the natives having once discovered 
 these barbaric tokens never tired of inspecting them: 
 the curious and in many n^stances uni(;ne devices dis- 
 played, greatly excited their wonder and admiration ; 
 those of lis who had not availed oursdves of this 
 peculiar branch of art wen; subjected to many (pieries 
 as to I he reasons for the omission. 
 
 We were now within a short distance of the village 
 called Loremie, to which oin- uist ructions had delini' 
 ti\el\ pointed as ihc probable goal of oui etibrls, for 
 
\ SAII-OIIS (JRAVK. 
 
 151 
 
 lit I III' t'lUH' iUosv DidiTs wvvi] wntl(!n it vviis conjcc- 
 tiiird (Imt tliiis was East C^ajX' , luit botli Mnrtiii 
 Mild iiiyselt' were now of (k^'itlod opinion that a 
 ('onsidt'm!)l(5 distanc-o yet lay l)t;tA\C('n ns and that 
 promontory, wJnch, however, we wer(! determined il' 
 possible to reach or get siglit of. 
 
 The morning of the 2:lni\ saw ns on the road to 
 Loreiine, wliose principal man, Bcleonta by name, 
 met lis about lialfwav, and relnrned with ns to his 
 village. At the distance of abont six miles from 
 Loreime, we came to a rude ei'oss of wood which, as 
 may well be iinagnied, engrossed all onr attention 
 for the time. Halting, we t viimined it with scrn|)ii- 
 lons care, and I think I know nearly every turn of 
 the grain. I made a careful sketch of it, copying the 
 Hussian inscriptimi with particular attention, and 
 now present it to my readers i/i forma vcrKas. 
 Inquiry elicited that a man lay buried beneath this 
 simple monunuMit, one of the crew of u ship which 
 hati visited herv^ ; the tigures, 18C1, on the wood 
 told when his clay returned to its kindred dust, and 
 this was all we knew of the poor departed — an instance 
 of the sailor's wayward lot and fre(pient sad and 
 solitary fate. 
 
 1 cut upon the cross, in two places, '11. M.S. 
 Plover," with the dale, as evidence of our visit, and 
 
 . 1 
 
:,i 
 
 l-ORKNNE NOT TIIK KAST ( A»»l' 
 
 
 I ' 
 
 ii: 
 
 vvt' iIr'H ivsiiiiuxl our joiinioy. On espying Loifiine 
 vvc also saw tvvo other clusters ol" huts, abo>it two 
 miles (listanec lyinj,' Ix-tneeii each. At Loreiuie, the 
 toreiiiost of tlie three villaji^es, we found Yamrnga's 
 brother living, and our guides desired theref( i i to 
 i-eMiain witli him To this we eoidd not object, but 
 as the day wns yet young, we wejit on ni ehaige of 
 Helcojitn to the furthest range of seven huts, where 
 he held his dwelling. 
 
 The necessity of constant watchfulness in driving 
 was impressed upon nie to day, by a rather forcible 
 lesson. Without heedhig the road, I permitted my 
 sledge to overrun one of my dogs, which accident 
 will ofd'ii lume them, and in trying to disentangle its 
 harness, I was bitten in the haiul by the })oor beasi, 
 which in its pain uiflicted a severe wound. 
 
 Verv sliirht observation continued our former view 
 respecting the erroneous idcntitication of Loretnie with 
 Kast (^ape , that (piestiou was soon settled, and we 
 became very w \ious to reach the next [)ohit, which, 
 Jis we could see iiothhig beyoiui it, might ])ossibly be 
 
 tl 
 
 le iiuu 
 
 h-d 
 
 CSU'CC 
 
 I posit 
 
 ion 
 
 ti 
 
 us, we wt^'c 
 
 told. 
 
 was 
 
 called Vandangah, with a ko-ee-inak (harbour) 
 contigiKtus , and the continuous trending of the 
 coast to the eastward h'd us to entertain sanguine 
 expectation that it would pro\e the hxed termination 
 
(UK (iiiuKs Ki;ri sr, to i'kocekk 
 
 I r)3 
 
 •i 
 
 of oiir adviim'c ; we ((mid iiiit'ortim;ihlv\ pliuc no 
 settled rcliiiiu'e upon our ohscnntions, tVoiii various 
 ciftiscs, ani'Mig wliicli tlu t'rc(|iK'nt stuppinf? of the 
 chrotioiiu'tcr from cold was pciliups the greatest 
 iiieonveiiieiiee. 
 
 To our expressions of de.>ue to proeecu! to Vandaugali, 
 Mooldooyah and his wife to our surprise, returned 
 only replies iiuiieative of relu(;tunei' and even refnsal. 
 " 'riie people at Vandangah," sani lie, " were unfriemlly 
 to liini, aud he would inevitahlv he 'v hl-da,' 
 (knifed) if ho appeared among them." Heleonta was 
 e(|ually unwilling, and so all others to whom wo 
 applied; <>ven promises of extra reward could not 
 induee any one to take the place of guide. Whether 
 the cause of objjiction was real or imagined I could 
 not tell ; it was, at any rate, w«>ll snstainetl, and our 
 chances of going to Vandangah seemed \cry small, 
 unless we went by onrsi^lves, which would hn\c been 
 not oidy rash, but also a great hifraction of f>ur 
 instructions both in letter aud spuit, and of course 
 one or the other of these nuist always be observed. 
 However we awaited patieti'rly the uchent ol the 
 morrow, and meanwhili' made ourselves as condbrtablc 
 as might be. Helcontas tent was of contracted 
 duneusions, the iimer apartrncnr benig only nua^ feet 
 by live feet six inches, but we were becoming used to 
 
 '^' I. 
 
 ,1 i 
 
151 
 
 KI:TIM', J'.ri'OltTS \t instihttion. 
 
 i b 
 
 hcimty spacr lor lodj^in^s The old gciUlt'iimn pioMilt'd 
 ii!s with some nice fresh venison, uhicli iijireeahl)' 
 assisted m eeoiioiuisinjr our provisions, and in return 
 lor all liis attention we pres(^nted him with a l)uteher's 
 and a saddler's knile, and some tohaeeo , his wife >vas 
 made happy ))y the aecpiisition of a looking-j^dass, a 
 strnjg of heads and some needles. What treasure*^, 
 were tluvsc ! the jevvellod ensket of tho bride has not 
 mow charms for her delighted ga/e than these simple 
 ))resents to this primitivi! peo|)le. I assure you, dear 
 leader, it was a sweet Jind unalloyed pleasuri' to 
 witness the joyous transports of onr simple-mindcMl 
 friends upon the a(([uisition of sueh gifts. We tried 
 to instrnet them too, to lead them to some idea of 
 worlds other than tlieir own, of ])(M>ple aboimding in 
 perfeetiiai of art and skill , Religion's taper was lighted, 
 hut the llame expired in its tirst breath, and our 
 labour of love was vain After all these efibrts, and 
 they were longrontinued, I had nieourse to my faithful 
 eoj>p<M- fiddle, wliieh, although now sorely bruised and 
 haltered hv its many trying peregrinations, lu'ver 
 refused to add lis s(|ueaking item to the general 
 amus(?ment. 
 
 The dialeet spoken here was identieal with that at 
 Oongwysae and Kay-gwan, being a distmet idiom to 
 that iiKtre f?enerallv employed. 
 
 
 
 I 
 
1 
 
 IIAI.r AT (O-CDNl.;, 
 
 .).) 
 
 VVc ivmaiiicd lien; duiiiijr the iiiu'ht, and wm- 
 delighted m;.\t inorniiig l)y the visit of ii mi'ii ulio 
 sit^nitied that he l>{'loiijj;cd to Ah-iuo-lecn of Vaiidaiigali, 
 vhit'h vvf had hoard was (he iianu' of the chid' 
 
 rcsK 
 
 Wuii tl 
 
 uiv 
 
 ittl 
 
 cry little pcrsiinsion induced him to 
 
 undertake to eoiuhict us to tlial. place on tlie morrow, 
 and having ma«le satisfactory arrangements, Martin 
 and 1 set otf for Lorenne to see Moolduoyah, and to 
 watcJi tor opportunities for hiuars, cVc. 
 
 We found the yarangas here preferal)l(' to tliose we 
 had hitely left ; they wen; eh'aner and more eommo- 
 (hons, botli of wliidi wen^ ai)])reeiable advantages. 
 As we (hd not intend to uuike any lengthened journey, 
 the heavier lading of the sledges was left umler care 
 of MooUh)oyah, wlio was to await our return, liidding 
 him and Ysmeenga farewdl, we starteil on the morning 
 of th(; 24tli escorted by Pch)wyo, tlie man who had 
 agreed to guide us, and anotlier native. This was one 
 of the finest days and most ])leasant travel we had 
 seen throughout, and having lightened sledges we 
 were h'ss tied to attention to our e<|uipages than 
 hitherto. 
 
 A run of a couple of leagues brought us to Co-cone, 
 (ujiisistiug of seven huts of tolerable size ; we only 
 stopped there a moment to obtain a draught of water, 
 then speeded on. passing a ri\er and two fresh-water 
 
 \ I, 
 
 t I 
 
J 50 
 
 THE TUSKI GENTLEMAN. 
 
 il .s. 
 
 lakes, besides occasional siiiuU bays of the sea, in our 
 transit. A steep declivity of frozen snow, on which, 
 while at a i'a[)id pace, my dogs overturned, and much 
 scratched nie, was the finish to our day's run ; at its 
 foot wc found three yarangas, from the largest of 
 which, ere we had well dismounted, sprang a young 
 man, shouting, — " Torouiah ! Toroiiiah ! " in accents 
 of joyous w^elcome. Shaking us eagerly by the hand, 
 hi^ rather dragged than led us hito his conunodious 
 and well-furnish(>d habitation, and as he was a 
 likely sprightly young fellow, whose countenance 
 beamed with good-humour and satisfaction, we 
 esteemed ourselves fortunate in falling into such 
 good hands. 
 
 I have in a preceding page described a Tnski 
 dandy : here let nu; do justice to the Tuski gentle- 
 man, of \ horn the most perfect (^xempliHcation Avas 
 inidoul)tAdly our new friend, Ahmoleen, the second, as 
 I nrust cidl him, in tlistinction to the son of Mooldoo- 
 vah, niv tirst and fast friend. 
 
 Ahmoleen's arrangements were in n style (piite 
 novel to us amo x this people. Mis hous(^, dress, 
 sledges, dogs, [ippointments, and e(|uipments, were 
 all of the first ordei*, and conspicuous for their sur- 
 passiiig neatness and pro])riety ; his manners were 
 quite a relief to the ordinary conduct of the natives, 
 
« 0:\| FOUT A FM/K qV A UTKUs. 
 
 ir,7 
 
 uiul an iiir of self-rei^pcct visihlo in every fiction, 
 Itetokenctl not only his superiority, l)iit also liis 
 know letlfjje of it. 
 
 Unterin}^ the yarang with oiir host, we were 
 ceremoniously presented to his neat and pretty little 
 wife, who s on showed that sh(> had been well (-hosen 
 for her industrious liabits. A canopy of while sacking, 
 variegated with printed cottojis, was quickly spread 
 over head, and deer-skins of jjeautyand tine eondition 
 I <l down for our repose All was bright and clean ; 
 
 ..ot a speck was obs<'rvahle on the walnis-skni noor, nor 
 a stray luur lotlged upon one's dress, Kvery pr(>pa- 
 ration that a hrarty welcome could suggest vvjis put 
 force for oiu* comfort ; we were divested of our 
 
 ui 
 
 heavy dresses, and reclined at ease in ;i moderate 
 temperature, for Ahmoleen savv at once our disti'ess 
 in great heat, and instantly nduced it. In a scry 
 brief space of time a delightful, l)ecause clean, meal 
 (.f boiled \('nisou was served, u])on wiiicli oiu' liost 
 wouUI have had us surfeit oiuselves lb' seemed 
 
 rcmam some tune wi 
 
 th 
 
 vi'ry desirous that w" shouhl 
 him, counting live upon his lingers, lo denote the 
 davs he would have w stay, and seeunnu; great I v 
 disannomted when we uitinmled om* niabilitv to 
 
 iiccept his kind invitation W'v smoked our pi|)es i 
 
 n 
 
 oiuet eou\(Msation. a 
 
 ftei 
 
 w 
 
 Inch 
 
 our 
 
 host. 
 
 wirn 
 
 th 
 
'"— HH;^ :^-- 
 
 15S 
 
 COAIFOHTAHLK (.^T AUTHHS, 
 
 » "v 
 
 drliciilA' |)ei'(V|)tiou, seeing thai we were fatigued 
 w'itli our journey and the cold air, whicli is mightily 
 euuthieive to sleep, forbore to weary us more with 
 many interrogatories, whieh h(^ must liave been eager 
 to satisfy, and haxing our couches arranged, left us 
 to repose. 
 
 tdK 
 
 TUMKl MAJC. 
 
*^ 
 
 1 
 
 ( !*■ 
 
 CHAPTlvH XI. 
 
 Vexatiou,-, dotoution.- Altemptfi at instruction. -Tuski delicacy.— Enmity 
 oxpiained. Tho ooat of uinil - Van(langiil..-.Nooun,linioiic •Startling 
 
 infonnation, Farewell t*. Ahiuoleon.- Tragic tidingH - Koti.ni to tlic 
 
 " Plover." 
 
 Wk were greatly niiiioyod to Hiul the :2r)tli the 
 i-('\crsc of its ))i'edecess()r , the wind l)le\v fiercely, 
 fiiul sriou fell heavily, quite iiiarriiig all hope?; of 
 msix'ctioii and advaiiee, Thus disa|)j)oiiited in our 
 desiivs, we souglit oecupatiou in-doors, first by 
 making oljservations with the magnet, and afterwards 
 becoming sufficiently engaged in the society of om- 
 hosl, He was full of (Malversation, and never ceased 
 to ply us with f(iirsti<»i:s n specting our visit, our 
 country, and our possessions, displaying great 
 shrewdness m his .jneries, and, generally, a ready 
 perception of our explanations On the subject of 
 religion alone his ideas were almost entirelv at 
 fault ; dou])tless we were not the most aj)t t(^aehers, 
 although endeavouring to coniinuiucate only the 
 primitive principles, and tliose in the simplest 
 
ion 
 
 OKNRHOrs H()Sl'fTAI,[TV. 
 
 1J 
 
 \i 
 
 h f 
 
 Dianiicr, Two hroad stntciiicnts \v(!re, liowever, 
 clearly compi'c^hended, and assented to, but wlietliei' 
 believo(l, lie- alone knows : thest; wen;, tliat tliose 
 wearing tlie cross should do good, which would 
 insure their future elevation; wliile contrary 
 behaviour would infaUibly lead to very disagreeabh^ 
 torment by fire. 
 
 The generous fellow w^ould not allow us to touch 
 our own provisions while staying with him 
 abundnnce of venison, prej)ared in many way^i, was 
 always in readiness to meet our re(juirements ; noi- 
 would Ahmoleen receive fmy present, imagining that 
 th(!y were tendered in j)ayment of his iiospitidity. 
 from which his nniive prid.- revolted ; and it wfis 
 only n])on full and r::.).;ated assurance that thesf* 
 were designed for gifts to our frioids, and had been 
 sent by our own chief for that jmrpose, tliat h<' 
 consented to receive anything. 
 
 Ahmoleen had made many visits to the Unssinn 
 settlement on the Kolyma, and had become nuich 
 softened in his address by even this slight intercourse. 
 He possessed much furniture, and other propei-ty, of 
 immense value here, obtained by barter at th(> !mmi;il 
 fair. Wealthy was he, too, in reinde(;r and other 
 Tuski goods, and nmch looked u|) to by the people 
 of ^andangah, which was between two and three 
 
\ "SIl'VIAl, COAT. 
 
 161 
 
 iiin(is (listaiif froiii iVhndljrcn. I he iijiinf irivoii hy 
 Ahiuoleoii to his vai'Hiigjis. 1 nm of opmioii, indc'd, 
 lliHt he put this sliglit (listiiiwc betwoeii himself and t\\v 
 Yurulangahnites, with a view to partial isolation, and 
 if this was really the case, his taste must he admired, 
 for a dii'tier set than the ti.'nizens of that village it 
 was seldom luy lot to see, even amon;j; the Tiiski. 
 The mystery of the dithculty in obtaining guides to 
 IVhoolgen was elucidated Uy Ahmoleen. who stated 
 
 that he was at enmity with thos» of Loivn 
 
 nc 
 
 I 
 
 fancy, howevi'i', that the hostility wjis of ii very 
 passive nature, and would only Ix' dif<play(d upon 
 accidental collision , and Ahmoleen assured us that 
 finy guide who might have accompanied us to his 
 hfd>itation would have been safe a- ourselv(>«« 
 
 Ourmg o\n' tiecpient comcrsations a dilHculty 
 presented itself, which was only solved after much 
 explanation Ahmoleen repeatedly e\|)ressed a desire 
 for a Pilligwmten Eran, which puz/led nic bexond 
 measure I had by this time accpnred an extensive 
 \ocabularv, and really fancied few thiim's could bother 
 me ; but here I was completely mystified. I*illig- 
 winteti certainly meant metal, and Kran meant coat, 
 or, as he pointed to it, waistcoat , but, good gracious! 
 what did the man want of a metal coat? this was a 
 poser , and I becanu^ so ulterly lost in the mazes of 
 
 i!5 IM 
 
 1 I 
 
ii 
 
 ](]'Z 
 
 
 NATIVE MAP 
 
 speculation 
 
 us 
 
 to this pjraiiil 
 
 
 occurred to 
 
 me 
 
 that it was truh 
 
 vn 
 
 r'stcry, that it never 
 metal (^oat, or rath(>i- 
 a coat of mail, that my friend desired to possess. 
 
 One, of a certain sort, he luid indeed ahvady, and 
 brought it forth for my ins[)eetion, as I will, reader, 
 for yours. It consisted of back and breast-plates of 
 walrns-hid(>, at least a (piarter of an inch thick, and 
 in some places double, a very l)oard for touji;lniess, 
 havmg been dried gradually in the sun. Tpon these 
 were fastened flat and thin iron plates overia])ping each 
 other. They were certainly of very little use in 
 fortifying the hide, through which no arrow would Ur 
 likely to j)ass, and were therefore only an additional 
 incnnd)runc<j to an aheady very clumsy article, which 
 was in fact, as Ahmoleen expljiined, too heavy to be 
 
 I. II 
 
 ence 
 
 worn in combats where activity was requiret 
 his desire tor one of lighter make, lie seemed in 
 some way to have heard of chain mail, as he described 
 it by locking Ins crooked tingers into one another. 
 
 Ahmoleen constructed a sort of map of the villages 
 alony; the coast, together with the islands in the strahs 
 
 and 
 
 opp 
 
 osite shoi'c, which led us to conclude that 
 
 Yj^:-* Ca ,v' would be near the villaii;e ot l^o-orte 
 The ensuing day is in the early part as little fav 
 
 our- 
 
 abli 
 
 o 
 
 bti 
 
 e as hetore, and we were ainiosf m despan ot 
 utunj; observa(i«»ns ; late m I lie evemui' however 
 
 K%<£4£'&;M^ 
 
All.Miil.KKN S \IAI> mK HRHKI!fa"s STUAnN. 
 
 I'agp I'!-;. 
 
JOTRNFY TO V\Nl)AN(i\H. 
 
 lt;:{ 
 
 we vvtMV ('iial)K'<l to take lininr distances with .lupitt'V, 
 l)j whidi till* resulting longitmlc led us to frcl 
 pretty well assured timt we were not yet so near 
 East Cape as we had supposed. 
 
 The 28th saw us still eaptive at Lorenne, and 
 although we were singularly fortunate in our place of 
 detention the delay was a serious luisfortune ; hut 
 clear weather was indispensahle to the due jjerfonnanee 
 of oui duties, and snow fell incessantly. 
 
 So we set to work to exchange snore inl'o; .at ion, 
 a]ul ri'eeived much cnlightennu'nt u|)on the mean- 
 ing of the word Tuski, which was of great import- 
 ance in inrtuencing my views respectuig the tribe, 
 although my present conclusions have come only 
 tardilv and after nuieh rcHection. 
 
 Tlu! opening day of March enabled us to set foith 
 once more, now for the ))ur])osc of vicwmg Yaiulangah. 
 Alter bordering the coast for about three ami a half 
 miles, sve obsened the settlement spread over a large 
 extent of uneven ground. It consisted of twenty- 
 six huts hitermingled with nninerous boats, and a very 
 great number of whale-bones placed in all positions, 
 and s(uittered in all directions The weather was 
 unfavourable, turning out snowy, but this did not 
 deter us from getting sonu^ infornuition of, if real, 
 great nnportance. 
 
 M -i 
 
\(ii 
 
 REirJKN TO I.OIU'.MNK. 
 
 - ) 
 
 i' 
 
 iudt'Hiiite coimimnicatioiis vvciv iiiiuir llutt tlif!s**M'n 
 part of a vessel hnil been ihiDVvn ii[) on the " Pat-rk " 
 short', and tl)at tho iiativeH of that ooast had oVjtaiued 
 knivrs, pots, and guns, from the wreck. 'Hirsi news 
 were said to have oouk" froiu Po-ortt-n, \vliitlu;r tlicy 
 were hrought from H-mah-leeii, the eliuf of the 
 islaiuls near I'ast Cape, al)()Ul eight mouths .siiuv. 
 We passed the night in a small hut very prettily plae^ d 
 on the elitf, about thirty feet al)ov»' the scji, hut the 
 pietures([ne exterior little atoned for the discomfort 
 inside; hut, host, and all rise, were models of tilth. 
 Thi! people were m -reover brutish and rude, and 
 l)egged ini})ortunatcly for everything we dis))laye(l. 
 
 Before continnnig the journey towards East Ca]U', 
 which was clearly v(!t far distant, we resolved to 
 return to lA)renue for a fresh sup])ly of provisions 
 and t(» eonnininieate with Mooldooyah, who might 
 become alarmed at our protracted al>sence. 
 
 Ac<'(>rdingly on the Jird, ih*spite heavy snow and 
 bituig wind, we started nnder the care of two 
 attentive and able guides reached the village of 
 Co-cone after dark, anil remained there tliat mght, 
 renewing our join'ney next morning in a lull, for the 
 weather was very bad. 
 
 VVc i-eached Loremic at an early horn*, and were 
 received with delight by our faithful friends, of whon» 
 
M(M)|,|)0(»Y.\ll AMI II In WIKK. 
 
 Ifi5 
 
 we were sorry to tiiul Yiiikcii«^!\ siiffV-riiig nrn>atlv from 
 8onu' iitt'crtioti oi the back and clusl, prohal)!) m(luc<"d 
 by I lie long rxposurf t«> cttld and \\v\ lately rxperi- 
 I'li'-ed. Mooldooyah was int'ornu'd ol' mir drsin- to 
 procet'd to Noouuluiionc, and coiist'tircd with great 
 rehu'taiK'c, declining to go liiniseir, jiartly in cmse- 
 quence of Yaiieeixxa's illness, and also that lie would 
 not consider ! ' ' ^atc in that (Hiarter. lint, as h 
 
 ol)served, the vvoiild scarcely dare to risk 
 
 condign pmiisl - unt Ij\ injnring any of the " A.twoits 
 ('al]<iwolc,'' with whom, moreover, they could have no 
 cause of enmity. 
 
 As our absence would now be of uncc.'rtain length, 
 it wiis arranged that Mooldooyah and his wife should 
 return to their home at VVootair, visiting the " Plover " 
 on the way to report progress He fuiiushed us 
 with some of his dogs, and obtained a trustworthy 
 guide lor us, whose name was At-tchoo-re-gcn. On 
 t\w ()th we set otf towards Noonahmone, touched at 
 Co-coiic, and reached Tchoolgeniii the afternoon. We 
 remained there all night to the great delight of our 
 fruiul Ahmoleen, who next morning accompanied us 
 to Noonahmone. Wc crossed Vandanguh harboiu", 
 called in tluMjharts " Bay of St. Lawrence," (a splendid 
 haven, in which were twt) tine islands) and reached 
 Noonahmone about four in the afternoon ; from this a 
 
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 VIEW OV THE EASTERN CAI>K OE ASIA. 
 
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 I' I 
 
 i 
 
 headland to the eastward arrested our attention, and 
 Ijiaking towards it we observed therefrom the three 
 islands in the straits and land still trending to 
 the eastward ; then returning to Noonahnione we 
 remained at that place for the night. 
 
 The information gained here respecting a wreck 
 was nmch the saiiie as that given at Yandangah, but 
 our communicant was so stupid as to damp our 
 ardent search for further particulars. 
 
 On the 8th we started for Cheengeen, and while 
 driving round a bay to its eastern extreme, mounted 
 a tall hummock of rough ice on the sea, whence we 
 saw with great distinctness the three islands in the 
 middle of the straits and the loom of the opposite 
 shore. We took a sketch and observations at this 
 point, after whicli we went on to Cheengeen. Prom 
 this position, which was high, we had at last the 
 great satisfaction of viewing, witliout a shadow of 
 doubt, the Eastern Cape of Asia, rising to a con- 
 siderable height above the sea, and crowned with 
 rough points and a large and populous village, 
 
 Kespecting the wreck, about which we naturally 
 made in(juiries on every possible opportunity, we 
 Avere here told that only fragments of a hull and stern 
 frame had been thrown up, from which, in |)lace of 
 pot.s or kjuvps, only nails had been drawn. The 
 
rilO.IKCTKl) VISIT TO TlIK K.\ST CAl'l-;. 
 
 ir.7 
 
 
 news had hevu ctniiiiiuiucatcd l>y boats, a[)paieiitly 
 seven or eight months ago, but any nion^ tluin tliis 
 Ave could not learn with eertnintv. 
 
 We were now all agog to proceed to Po-oiten, the 
 village u}H)n the Cape, but our desires were inipera- 
 tiv(!ly checked by the refusal of any one to acconipauy 
 us, and the positive^ assurance of the great risk we 
 Hlionid incur by j)ersisting hi tlie attempt, A 
 dift'erent language was said to be spoken there, and 
 the natives represented to be at fend with their 
 neighbours, and of a fierce intractable disposition. 
 Thus urgently warned, we did not consider ourselves 
 justified in proceeding, particularly without guides, 
 and relincpiished the ardent lioj)e with deep regret, 
 which has never smce duninished in my mind. 
 We therefore made pn^parations for return to the 
 " Plover ; " {o(»k sketches of the surrounding land and 
 islands, made such observations as were possd)le, 
 obtauied specinu'us of black-lead ore and colouring 
 stone, and distributed a few presents, our stock of 
 which was by this time getting low. On the 0th we 
 took a last look at East Cape, .uid (putting Cheengecn 
 commenced our honuiwai'd joiuney. 
 
 Noonahmone was passed without delay, and we 
 reached Tchoolgen at seven in theevemng, passing one 
 more night hi the yarang of our obliging and agreeable 
 
 i I 
 
 i * 
 
 -I 
 
 f 1 
 
 1:1,1 
 
r 
 
 leb 
 
 DEATH Ot ONE 01' Ol}& MEN. 
 
 frifjiul Almioleeu, who had escorted us on the late 
 journey, tuid was now full of tjibulation at our final 
 sepai'ation. 
 
 On the loth we ran through Co-cone to Loreiine, 
 at which place, from a sledge breaking down, we did 
 not arrive until late at night. Our instructions had 
 indicated Lorenne as a place of great importance ; vve 
 desired therefore to make observations conclusive of 
 its position, and having been directed to ])ut up an 
 inscription, set about preparing it, carving upon a 
 piece of board the " Plover's " name with j)lace and 
 date of whiteiing. 
 
 Bad weathei' setting in detained us hei'e until the 
 I oth, very much to our annoyance, for several reasons, 
 of whi('h the ])rmci])al mft-sf by aud by be touched 
 upon, as without it my narrative would be incomplete. 
 On the 15th then wc dei)ai'ted, and on the road to 
 Maytchooemin met a native of Wootair, wlio informed 
 us of the death of onf^ of our men. We receiveil 
 these tidings with sadn. ather than surprise, having 
 long feared that one po(M fellow approached his end, 
 and making little doubt that this was he of whom the 
 native spoke. 
 
 Our return was accomphshed with much less of 
 incident and delay than had marked our outward 
 journey j most c»f the desuTd information was already 
 
 I i 
 
KETUUN i\> THE "I'LOVEU. 
 
 Jf.0 
 
 obtained, and, except in very bad vveatlier, we seldom 
 delayed for any length of time. We leaehed the 
 *' riover" at even on the :20th of March, sufficiently 
 rejoiceil to be once more among our companions, by 
 whom we were pleasantly welcomed, and again to 
 know the comforts of cleanliness and the luxury of a 
 bed. 
 
 W^fe'A^^te 
 
 1 
 
 WOMAN ANT) CHII,I>. 
 
ClIAPTKU Xll. 
 
 A TiiMki Feast.— A Tuoki Smoke. — Tlio Ladit-s' I'livilnge. — The dimij^ht.- • 
 Tlie Tiwki I'lague. - A saiii'od ceromouj.- -Tho ShuMiiiu. — Doscriptiou 
 of boats, ropo, &c. — Embroidery, carving, &c. — Fire-iuakiug, 
 
 1 HAVE forborne tliroughoui my narrative to 
 enter into more than occasional notice of tlie food ol 
 the Tuski, and their modes of preparing it, thinking 
 it better to present at one pictuie the numei'ous 
 varieties, whieli indeed are all provided at feasts 
 giv(;n by tlie wealthy, but in part only at moiv 
 moderate entertainments. 
 
 1 propose now to set before you in detail the 
 history of a Tuski repast of the most sumptuous 
 nature, as myself and companions partook of it, and 
 trust you may find it as much to your taste as they 
 do to theirs. It is, 1 believe, with nearly all people 
 ill a primitive condition, the first and {)aramount 
 duty of hospitality to provide the visitor with food 
 innnediateiy on his entrance, and such was the rule 
 in Tuski customs, h'irst was brought in on a huge 
 wooden tiiiv, a number of small tish, uncooked, but 
 
A TUSKI FLAST 
 
 171 
 
 iiiU'iist'ly tVozi'ii. At thcsj' nW tlu; natives set to 
 work, and we essayed, soiuewliat ruefully, it must he 
 confessed, to follow their example, l»ut, being all 
 unused to sueli gastroiiomw! proeess, found our- 
 selves, as might l)e expeeted, rather at a loss how to 
 eominence. From this dilemma, however, our host 
 speedily extricated us, by prnetical dt'monstr.ation of 
 the correct mode of action, and under his certainly 
 very able tuition we shortly Itccamc more expert. But 
 alas ! a new difiiculty was soon presented , our native 
 companions, we presume, either ma(k' a hasty bolt of 
 each morsel, or had perha])s a rehsh for the flavour of 
 the viands now under consideration. Not sooursi.'lves ; 
 it was sjidly rej)Ugnant to our palates, for, aidvd by 
 the newly-ac(juir(Hl knowledge that the fish were in 
 the same condition as when taken from the Avatei", 
 ujicleaned and unembowelled, we speedily discovered 
 that we could neither bolt nor retain the fragments 
 which, by the primitive aid of teeth and nails, we 
 had rashly detached from om' piscatorial share. 
 
 It was to no purpose that our host pressed us to 
 "fall to;" we could not manage the consumption of 
 tins favourite [)rej)aration (or rather lack thereof), 
 and succeeded with dithculty in evading his earnest 
 solicitations. 
 
 The next course was a »ness of green stuti', looknig 
 
 1 ] 
 
 i 
 
 1 I 
 
 U.-ii, 
 
72 
 
 A TINKI I'KAST. 
 
 u.s if cari't'iilly cIiojjixhI up, and tliis was also hard 
 frozen. To it was added a lump of blubber, which 
 ihe lady presiding, who did all the carving, dexte- 
 rously cut into sliees, with a knife, like a eheese- 
 nionger's, and apportioned out, at different (juarters 
 of the huge tray before mentioned, which was used 
 throughout the meal, together with a modieuni of 
 the grass-liki- stuff', to the company , the onlv 
 distinction in favour of the strangers and guests of 
 liigh degree ]>eing that theii' sliees were cut much 
 thinner than for the rest. We tasted this cojn])ound, 
 
 and we didn't like it ; at this no one will 
 
 wonder ; the Wubber speaks for itself, and the other 
 stuff, which really was not very unpalatable, we 
 tliscoNcred in after-times to be tin- inwannuati'il faod 
 of mndevr which had been slaughtered ; at Itsast, so 
 we were told, but I am not quite clear on this point. 
 Our dislike to the dish liad no olfensive effect upon 
 our host, wlio only seemed to be astonished at our 
 strange want of taste, and with the rest of the guests, 
 soon cleared the board, the managing dame putting 
 the finishing stroke f)y a rapid sweep of her not too 
 scrupulously clean fingers over the dish, by way of 
 clearing off the fragments, to prej:)are for the 
 reception of the next delicacy. After this interesting 
 operation she con\eyefl her digits to her mouth, and. 
 
A T18KI PFAST. 
 
 173 
 
 (Migultiiig them for ii Uv'wi' period, witlidrcw tliciii 
 quite in apple-pie order once more. 
 
 The hoard wiis now again rephnislied, this time 
 with viands less repellent to our unnuitured tastes. 
 Boiled seal and walrus flesh ajjpeared, and our 
 hospitable friends were greatly relieved when they 
 beheld ns assist in the consum[)tion of these; items, 
 which, being utterly devoid of flavour, were dis- 
 tasteful only from their extreme toughness and mode 
 of presentation, but we did not, of course, desire to 
 appear too singidar or squeamish. Next came a 
 poiliou of whale's flesh, or, rather, whale's skin ; this 
 was perfect ebony in Inu;, and w(! discovered somi^ 
 apprehensions resju'cting its fitness as an article of 
 food ; but our fears were groundless. It was cut and 
 recnt crosswise into diminutive cubes , venturing 
 upon cme of which we were agreeably surprised to 
 find it possessing a cocoa-mit Havoiu', like which also 
 it ate, "very short;" indeed s, ; inch ast(mished were 
 we on this occasion that we had consuuKul a very 
 considerable number of these cubes, 'ind with great 
 relish too, Ijcfore w(; recovtivd from our wonder. 
 This dish was ever afterwards a favourite with me. On 
 its disa}»pcarance a very limited ((uantity of boiled 
 reindeer meat, fresh and fat, was served up, to which 
 we did ample justice ; then came portions 'f the gum 
 
 I ! 
 
 s; ' 
 
 4' 
 
 ! ii 
 
174 
 
 SMOKINd 
 
 of the wlifih', ill wliicli tlic cuds of the Ixnu' lay still 
 C!inl)CMltlc(l, and I do not liositatv to doclarc that this 
 was perfectly dolicious, its flavour being, as ntjurly us 
 I can find n parallel, like that of erearn elieesc!. This, 
 which the Tuski call th(Mr snjtjar, was the wind-up to 
 the repast and ourselves, and we were fain to admit 
 that, after the rather unpleasant auspices with which 
 our feast (;ounnenced, the tinale was l)y no nieaus to 
 be contennied. 
 
 Each of those who had borne a ])art in tin 
 proceedings of the evening now threw himself luick 
 in an evident condition of co!U[)laceucy ; ourselves 
 only, unused to such a lahle <riiut(', experienced 
 symptoms of slight oppression. 
 
 A new medium of luxury was now put in r(H)ui- 
 sition — 1 mean the practice of smoking — which 
 demands a special notic(j Before our visit to tliis 
 people all the tobacco they used was obtained from 
 the Russians by barter, |)rinci|>ally at the settlement 
 of Kolyma, but also, I conjectur(\ at the fort on the 
 Anadyr. It is of course very spra'ingly supplied, 
 and having been brought so great a distance, is nuich 
 valued. In order to eke out the scanty quantity 
 as far as compatible wiiJi its enjoyment, it is bntken 
 nj) into mimite fragments, and mixed with wood, 
 similarly small, but di/lVrcntly manufnctiwed, and 
 
K<'ONo>n IN TIM IM ttl Tt»HA(((i 
 
 17; 
 
 3)1 
 (I, 
 
 I 
 
 showing in ii rrnuirkal>lc di'ii^rcc liow tin savjigi!, 
 whose sliarc of hfc's supplies is limited, eoonoiiiiscs 
 nnd turns to nrronnt every seni]) wiiieji lulls in iiis 
 way. The tVngiuonts of d rift- wood thrown hut rarely 
 on this shore ur(! considertid with the j^reiitest atten- 
 tion iis to the best use to wjneh thev niuv be devoted, 
 and to which tliey are then adai)ted with infinite 
 patiem^e and cure A small knih' with a Ixnt blade 
 and a handle generally made of the tij) i»f a deer's 
 horn, is ni great use among them, and employed to a 
 surprising extent ; with it they thin down stieks to 
 the recpiiied si/e for whip-handles or walking-staves, 
 and it is this operation which provides wood to mix 
 with the tobacco. No chips are hacked oH", that 
 would be nseless waste, With tln^ fore Hnger on 
 the l)ack of his rpieer little knife, tlie operator runs 
 from one extreme to the r)ther of the stick, hi a 
 rapid succession of strokes, detaching each time a 
 gossamer twisted shred, of the same unbroken length 
 ns the stick. It is wonderful to see the r(;gularity 
 with which stiing after string of woody iibre is 
 separated, and the skill and paticmce — well nigh ecpnd 
 to that of the Chinese, who rubs down a nail to nnike a 
 needh; — employed to rednce the wand to its required 
 proportions. When finished, it leaves the hand of 
 the operator as smoothly rounded ami nicely tajuMcd 
 
 
 > )l 
 
 I;' 
 
i 
 
 17*5 
 
 M»»IM <H SMOKIV*;, 
 
 IIS it' protliiriMl li\ the liitlic 'rile slircds iiro rol- 
 |pct('(l in a l)im(lii', cut nnd iwut acrosis nrul across, 
 until sufficiently fine, wlu'ii they arc mixed with the 
 tobacco in proportions varying with the «piMiitily of 
 the latter in stock, but f^rnerally, I believe, about 
 one-third part of wood is usi<d. 'I'he mixture is then 
 put carefully away in a well-made bajr. of dressed 
 seal-skin, from whicli the siiiall pouch hanfj^iup; to 
 the girdle, with picker, st«'.'l, and tinder-bap;, is 
 replenished. 
 
 The Tuski use |)ipe.s of utKul and ivory, i^ther 
 divided along the middle into two parts, for con- 
 venience of cleaning, or with a large trap-door in tli(> 
 under part, which allows a few pieces of dry grass to 
 be laid inside, to absorb the moisture, Mud when 
 closed, is covered with a stri[) of leather, which 
 etlectuallv keeps it air-tiifht. When about to smoke. 
 
 a pinch of hnir is j)lucked from the deerskin frock 
 and pushed with the pricker down the very small 
 hole in the bowl of I he pijx' this is to prevent the 
 tobacco from draw ing through ; from tlu? pouch jit 
 the girdle a minute quantity of the mixturc, not mon; 
 than half a thimbleful, is then put upon this, and the 
 smoker then strikers fire with steel and fragment of 
 pebble, generally a tiny morsel of cornelian oi* agate, 
 into the smallest imaginable [)iece of a kind of fungus, 
 
 1 
 
 
A TUSKI SMOKK. 
 
 177 
 
 
 .; 
 
 niseiiihling (iiTiiimi tiiuln, uliicli is (nidcntly very 
 srarcf, iiiul na(!(l win) tin; {^n-atcst ccoiioiny. \\n\ oih' 
 iiulruuglit of siiioki' is taken, a long, dw\) inspiration, 
 tlic entiro volnint; passing into tlie lungs; in a 
 second or two it is expelled, in a similar manner, with 
 a long, loud aspiration, sounding betwixt a groan and 
 a sigh . this stertorous kind of breathing is re|)eat(>(I 
 several times, heavily, and as if from pain, the j)erson 
 closing the mouth each time, as if ga>ping ft)r l)reath. 
 These operations appear to aflbrd intense enjoymeTit, 
 and arc? possibly of use m elearing the lungs. The 
 j)roeess of pipe-eleaning is intrusted to tlie Avomen, 
 who re])lenish the dry grass u\ the body of the pipe ; 
 the refuse deposit is their penpiisite, an<l devoured 
 with great gusto, the essential oil of the tobaeeo 
 forming apparently a pleasant exeitant to their i>il-be- 
 elogged palati.'S The smoke quite eoneludud, the 
 natives betake themselves to tlu; vessels eontaining 
 water ; and we were perf'-etly amazed at their 
 capacity hi this respect,- 1 should think each person 
 would swallow at least half a gallon at a draught. 
 No doubt .so much fluid is necessary to dissolve the 
 quantities of oleaginous food consumed. The draught 
 is a finishing stroke : all immediately lie down to 
 sleep, unless, as was to our annoyance most fre- 
 quently the cas(!, on occasions of our visits, religioiia 
 

 17S 
 
 THK TUSKI PLAGUE. 
 
 t] ' \ 
 
 .> IV 
 
 li 
 
 or rejoicing corenionies are to be practised, when in 
 come those horrid drums, and keep one in misery for a 
 couple ofhoui's ; and heartily glad were we ever when, 
 drums and yells hushed, skin walls let down, and 
 lamps extinguished, we were permi ted to lie down 
 and dream of "marble halls," or more genial regions 
 than those into which we had adventured. 
 
 I have said that the principal reason for disincli- 
 nation to remain in tlie native huts longer than was 
 dictated by absolute necessity, nnist imperatively be 
 noticed ; and I now do so with as light a touch as 
 will convey an idea of the absolutely dreadful nature 
 of this objection. 
 
 The ])ersons, clothes, ) .d even dogs of 
 
 the Tuski, were covered with vernim, not in a slight 
 degree, but absolutely swarming ; and it is doubtless 
 from this cause that they clip the hair on the head. 
 The first days of our journey brought the horrible 
 conviction that it was hopeless to avoid the plague 
 while in contact with the pco])le. In vahi our clothes 
 were changed and washed repeatedly ; in vain \\v 
 attempted to isolate ourselves as much as possible ; 
 the evil incnuised each day ; and at last our condition 
 became insupportably tormenting ; those of excitable 
 temperament being denied sleep or rest by the 
 constant irritation, and reaching a state bordering 
 
"t ; 
 
 A SACRKD CKRKMONV. 
 
 170 
 
 r^ 
 
 1)11 
 
 Ic 
 lie 
 
 u])oii madnes8. It was particularly when npt^se was 
 courted that our torment was greatest. When 
 travelling out of doors the cold checked the attacks 
 of the foe, which only resumed tli(^ir onslaught with 
 new vigour when reanimated by the great heat of the 
 yarangas. This was the most fearful infliction 
 experienced during our stay in Tuski hmd, and far 
 surpassed anything 1 ever sufl:ercd ; producing hi me 
 an agitation of (he nerves, like St. Vitus' dance. 
 
 A few days' rest prepared us for renewcid efforts. 
 On the 24th of March 1 was dispatched to Wootair, 
 for the pui'poae of obtaining magnetic and other 
 observations ; thest^ W(;re delayed by the occurrence; 
 of bad weather ; and 1 returned to the ship only on 
 the 1st of April. During my stay at VVoorel i was 
 witness to a ceremony of a liighly cuiious and 
 peculiar natiu'e ; but 1 was unable to form from it, 
 and others of a like description, more than a very 
 faint ifle.n of the structure of their rehgion. 
 
 My friend Ahmoleen had been so fortunate as to 
 kill a small whale, which was a rircumstanci! to be 
 celebrated with feasting and rejoicing. Upon the 
 bank above the sea was lit a fire, into whi(;li were 
 thrown the entrails of a puppy, just strangled ; its 
 carcase was then cast into the wave. Fish, venison, 
 blubber, anil some other sorts of food were boiled 
 
 N 2 
 
180 
 
 THE SHAMAN. 
 
 ^ 
 
 over this fire, smd minced very fine ; t\\v. head, fins, 
 and tail of the whale, wort; disposed near, and upon 
 them wer<^ laid small portions of tlie cooked food, a 
 few beads, some tobacco, and mites of several other 
 of their most valaal>le articles. The food, vvlien 
 cooked, was handt^d round in separat(i platters to 
 the assembled crowd, each of whom was also 
 presented with a small strip of tobacco ; nor was I 
 omitted in this attention, although the latter article 
 had been obtanied from me for tlu; j)urpose. Aftt^r 
 all had been served, and some time allowed to 
 elapse, the otFerings upon the fish, together with 
 pieces cut from its head, tail and fins were consumed 
 in the fire. All was conducted in almost unbroken 
 silence , even the queries, which with ill judgment 1 
 presumed upon my friendship to put to Ahmoletui, 
 who was the person principally otficiating, were 
 resp(,'nded to ni an under tone ; and the comj)any, 
 comprising th(; greater pju't of the villagtu's, seemed 
 impressed with a sense of the sacred natun; of the 
 ceremonies. Inside his yarang, Mooldooyah, Alnno- 
 leeii's father, whom I have before said I believed to be 
 a shaman, or priest, b<'at inc<'ssantly upon the largt.'st 
 drum 1 ever saw among the peo))l(>, chanting mo- 
 notonously in a succession of (juivering notes, and 
 drawling out the words to a great length. The 
 
 % 
 
 
r 
 
 kl 
 
 i 
 
 TUSKl SONC; ()!• KEJOr<'IN(;. 
 
 isl 
 
 burden of his ditty, vvliicli might ciisily have been 
 taken for a dirge ratluir than a song of rojoi(nng, ran 
 
 very much in this way : — " All h mo o 
 
 le en, K . . a . i)oo ok ah h, VVald 
 
 dah ; Ma a /i ii kah, Ma 
 
 /i n . kah, Ka a poo k all, Ka 
 
 poo kah ;"* and so on, ad libitum, with an 
 
 oceasional cliangc into "Ah h li ah 
 
 ah," as his lircjatli denied utterance to the 
 
 words. There Avas much to strike one as extraordi- 
 nary in tlie appearance of this minister of a ru(h3 
 religion. Seated crosslegged in his tent, nude from 
 the waist upwards, his body swaying to and fro with 
 the intonations of his chant, perspiration 'streaming 
 from every pore of his vast bidk, the huge tandiouruie 
 tilling the entire space with its reverberations, and, 
 above all, the expression of conviction impressed 
 upon his lineaments of the sacred impcu'tance of his 
 duty, Mooldooyah acquired a new and imposing 
 character, far (liferent to his ordinary nature. 
 
 This ceremony, and the one we witnessed with so 
 much ettect when lost in the snow, together with the 
 slighter indications of religious i)ractices disj)layed at 
 dirt'erent times, lead one, in somi" degree, to draw a 
 parallel between them and the ancient observances, 
 
 ' Ahmoleeu a whale has killed good, good, tho whnle, the wliale, xlc. 
 
 
 1 f 
 
182 
 
 N All VI', BOATS. 
 
 botli Jewisli and Roman ; one cannot fail especiully 
 to be struck with the resemblance of the lately related 
 ceremonies to the proceedings of the heathen Augurs 
 and the burnt and meat offerings of the .lews. 
 
 Mooldooyah and his wif(!, Yaneengah, had both 
 been baptistjd by Russian priests, upon a visit to 
 Kolyma -. he received the name of Pctroko, or Peter ; 
 she was christened Anna ; but these titles, together 
 with the bare recollection of the ceremony, a small 
 (jrreek cross, and what I conjectured to be certificates 
 of baptism, were all that remained of the sacred rite. 
 
 I had a good opportunity here of examining the 
 very curious boats of the natives, which serve alike 
 to transport great (|U!intities of goods, or for tiie 
 purposes of the chase. They are light but very 
 tough, being compos(?d of walrus-skins, which, as 1 
 have before noticed, are beautifully prepared, sewn 
 over ji light frame of wood. Thi^y are fiat-bottomed, 
 and nearly wall-sided : about fortv inches in breadth 
 at the widest part of th ; gunwales, and a foot or 
 fourteen inches less below, decreasing in width to 
 either end, which is just wide; enough to admit a 
 man's body. The edges of the gunwale are neatly 
 worked over with thin hide or stri[)s of whalebone. 
 They ai'e proj>elled with great speed l)y paddles, 
 which ar<' also used in bow and stern to direct theii 
 
N/VTIVE MANl 1'A(TI;rk.s. 
 
 183 
 
 course. Tht} STiiooth surfnco oi' the wnlnis-skiii oftevs 
 little reifiistanco Id their pussage tlinmgli the Avater, 
 and they are canjfiilly ])n^v(Mir(fl IVoni lu'eoming 
 sodden or incnisted, 1)eing carried on shore tlie instant 
 they are done witli, turned over and i)eat('n with stout 
 sticks, to drive off' the moist lU'e, and keep the skin in 
 shape, as it would otherwise be liable to bag. 
 
 The weapons used for whale hunting are lances and 
 harpoons, both tipped with ivory barlis, but I do not 
 know whether lines are used, although 1 think it 
 probable from the great (juantity manulaetured and 
 its excellence, the lines of wsilrus-liide particularly, 
 wliich are hnnieusely tough. These are made by 
 cutting round and round a skin without ft break until 
 it is all used; the ro[)e is soaked in watei until 
 tiiute soft, then rolled and stretched reneatedly , by 
 Hiese operations it becomes beautifully round without 
 any edges visible, and ol' an uniform thickness 
 throughout. 
 
 The Tuski understand the art of tanning, and are 
 able to produce very fair specimens, but practise it 
 priiu'ipally with sealskin, which is dressed in all 
 colours; the white is very delicate and much prized. 
 Deerskins are dressed with ammonia, red-ochre, and 
 other materials, they an' rendered very soft and 
 pliable, but th<^ mo(U' of curing gives them an 
 
 i 1 
 
184 
 
 EMBKOIDKRY, CARVlN(i, KTC 
 
 h I 
 
 exceedingly iuii)leasant odour, which is only iujper- 
 ceptible in coh] weather. 
 
 Embroidery is murh practised, principally with the 
 long white hair from the belly of the reindeer ; strips 
 and figures of differently colomed leather, dyed fur 
 and feathers of the eider-duck are also employed for 
 ornament ; besides, as I have before mentioned, 
 designs in black lead or ochre, and a species of parti- 
 colom'cd patchwork or "uisertion." 
 
 Much ingenuity is displayed in carving articles fi'oni 
 ivory, in which employment one of the tribe at this 
 village was a [jrolicient. lie made ducks, geese, seals, 
 canoes, and many other curious toys and models, and 
 was alsc) very fond of carving figures ; a pipe of ivory, 
 which he made for me in about six hours, had on 
 the bowl a face in front and on either side, the back 
 was filled up by a figvu'e less than an inch high seated 
 upon a block, having one leg crossed upon thekniseof 
 the other. This was a very handsome and well- 
 linisluid ])iece of sculpture. Another man here was 
 in great request as a maker and ornamenter of wooden 
 pipes, particularly for inlaying them with lead or solder, 
 which after our arrival was practised to a imich greater 
 extent than previously. 
 
 The snow-shoes in use among this peoj)le are 
 generally ahout two feet ni length, broad and fiat, the 
 
TLSKl MKDKAJ. TUI.ATMKNT, 
 
 185 
 
 fore part dglit inclies iii widtli, tapering to n point 
 behind, where, to prevent sinking in the snow, a piece 
 of whalebone four inches broad imd eighteen long, is 
 attached; the nettings are of seal or walrus-hide. 
 For sniootli ice or snow, shods of carved ivory, having 
 s(!rrated edges, are fastened under the moccasin, and 
 prove of great service. 
 
 I am surprised that we nevcsr saw imy kind of 
 spectacles or protection from the blinding glare; of the 
 snow in spring time, for the people suffer dreadfully 
 from snow-blindness and opthalmia. These ailments 
 an<l lieadache they relieve greatly by perforatirg the 
 skill on the temples, forming a sort of seton, and 
 frequent apph(.'ation was made to our o})liging surgeon 
 for the performance of this opeiation, I did not learn 
 anything respecting any other remedies tliey (;mploy 
 in illness, «'xcepting scarification. In <he spring, 
 nature reheves tlu system by copious vicarious 
 bleeding, which they do not check. 
 
 Th(; journey to Kolyma occupies, w\^ were told, a 
 period of six months ; that to the other place they 
 visit, conjectured to be the Fort on the Anadyr, takes 
 foiu'. While Ave were on the coa^l: no one departed, 
 or we should have noticed their preparations with care, 
 but sonie men had been sc^veral times, although 
 certainly not, as Wrangell supposes, passing their lives 
 
 ! 1 
 
1«« 
 
 NATIVE TIIADK. 
 
 in sucli journeys. Mooldooyah, the miscalled Mis- 
 sionary, and Amtin, were of the number who had 
 thus travelled, and tlie latter knew more on the subject 
 than any one except Ahmoleen of Yandangah, who 
 described, and even named, two or thret? of the 
 Russian traders, jimoiig whom he spoke of one Sin.on, 
 a man of very o})ese proportions, which it was fine 
 fun to my friend to mimic, for, as 1 have; before 
 noticed, this talent they possess in a considerable degree. 
 The journeys to Kolyma are undertaken with rein- 
 deer and large covered sledges ; furs and ivory are taken 
 to be exchanged for tobacco in the leaf, of a very 
 inferior nature ; common rough beads, generally of a 
 dull opaque blue ; knives ; printed cottons, of which 
 loose flowing dresses are made to go over the fin- 
 clothes in ])lace of the okonch ; probably also a little 
 sugar, and I rather think very small tpiantities of 
 spirits, as "kamisse," or more properly " ay-ke-mish," 
 doubtless a (^orru])tion of ayak-memil, (tire-water) 
 was by no means unknown to them and eagerly sought 
 for. To obtain it no sdcrifice was considered too 
 great, and the most sacred ties were loos<;d with 
 indifference in its pursuit. We were much puzzled 
 for a long time to tell how fire was produced each 
 morning in the huts, — the husband evidently gave no 
 assistance in the way of steel and tinder, hut at last we 
 
 i 1 
 ( . 
 
 t 
 t 
 
iii>u I'o LHiiir A riui-;. 
 
 187 
 
 Ibuml out all about it. ,V piece of flat hoard has a 
 uuniher of suiall lioles imxdo in it, into one of whu^h 
 one end of a |)oint(!(l stick is idaeed, the otiier 
 extremity Httinjj; into a sort of breast-plate, put on by 
 the woman otliciatin^, wiio vvitii a bow wovka tho 
 stick to and fro rapidly, just ;is in drilling'; a hoK-, in 
 about ten niiitutes, under favoui-nble eireunistanees, 
 she succeeds in detaching l)nrning fibres of the wood : 
 these are hastily j)ut into a haiulful of dried grass, 
 which envelopes them, and by rapid niotinn tlirough 
 the air kindles into tlanic. This is a most laborious 
 operation, and tht^ poor women were loud in their 
 expressions of joy when we struck tire with lucifers 
 for them ; a solitary act of the kind was a great boon, 
 but a present of half a dozen matches brought down 
 blessings on one's head. 
 
 (d 
 l-h 
 
 ko 
 
 
 Ti'sKi yyvKf. 
 
I 
 
 '. i' 
 
 (UIAPTER XIll. 
 
 Matficide, a deed of horror. — The Hrido't* dopartuie. — A novel piininhment, 
 - SiiowUlinduees. — (JuiapaniouBhip. -- Uefnvction. - (Jiinion. Tho 
 l!ripp!e.--Amxifiernont8 of children. — Cutting out. — I'nynigliohe thw 
 gnitofid. -The ungiatoful Htrangor. — Suuiinary. 
 
 A ( aaroM exists with this people which imist sliock 
 the least dehcate HeiisibiUties of civilisiitioii, so utteil}' 
 repugnant is it to all laws human or divine. Tidiiif^s 
 were one morning brought to the ship that one of the 
 elder women of Woorcl had di(jd on the })revious 
 night. Encjuiring into tlie circumstances of her 
 decease, w(3 were informed witii the most perfect 
 inditferencc of mariner, that she liad been " Wah-let- 
 tah " (stabbed) by ! - r son We could not at first 
 conceive this horrib.le statement to bt; true, but unmis- 
 takeable signs put it beyond a doubt, nor did our 
 remarks on the friglitful nature of the act elicit the 
 slightest token of reciprocal feeling. Why should 
 not tlir' old woman <lie? aged and feeble, weary of life, 
 and a bui'den to herself and others, she no longer 
 desu'ed to cumber the earth, and claimed of him who 
 
MATiMcini;. 
 
 iHi) 
 
 i 
 
 owned nenrost n^latiouship, the friendly stroke wliich 
 slioidd lei out her seiinty remnant ol" cMstcnee. Jler 
 desire vviis obeyed with an apathy only to be aecounted 
 for by the enshnnidin^' veil of ensloni, and her life 
 was ended by him to whom she had given if, and 
 whose first throbbings she had cherished. What more! 
 ghastly, more unnatural than this ! To take life hi 
 any way is ftiarfnl ; infant ieide revolts the stiiises ; but 
 for u man t(» proceed with the utmost deliberation t<» 
 cut the fast diminishing thrcail of existence of his 
 moth(!r, of her who gav(^ him birtli and nursed his 
 fcel)le ray of existence into strength, is a (U'vaI of winch 
 tlie idea curdles the warm blood in one's veins, and 
 creates dark feelings of horror and disnn\y. 
 
 Retunring on the first of April to the shij), I 
 rcc<!ived instructions the same evening to depart on 
 the morrow with a large party of tlui natives to a 
 place called En-niil-lane, situated at a considerable 
 distance along the coast to the westward. The l)arty 
 1 joint:d was evidently conducting a bride to her new 
 home, together with her dowry, with which six or 
 seven sledges were heavily laden. It consisted of 
 large bladders of very l)eautiful pennuican, venison 
 fat, reindeer skhis and clothes, some few trinkets 
 obtained from ourselves, and other matters, but the 
 provision greatly preponderated. The bridegroom, 
 
 |. 
 
lull 
 
 .\ liKiDAf. I'Mcrr. 
 
 who «'S(!ort,(!(l the damsel, wtus much younger thjuj liis 
 bride, mid treateil witli vciry litth^ distinction hy herseU 
 mid the rest of the party. I shouhl think thiic is no 
 Wfiste of tendre amour in this cliim; ; the |)re.sent 
 occasion ioolved very l)usiness-hke inch'cd. We passi'd 
 four or five days on the journey, liahing each niglit at 
 some one of the httle villages, which were very com- 
 fcH'tless, and I was ghid when we readied I'^nniillane, 
 a lm*ge and popidous vilhigc^ near ('apt! Atchen, from 
 which a sweeping view of great extent may l)e 
 obtained of tlic coast, both to the south-east and 
 north-west. I liad now reached the farthest point 
 attained by any of our company to tlie westward, fis 
 Mr. Martin and myself Imd (hme to the eastward on 
 the former protracted journey. The wlioUr (Ustan(r 
 in a bee-hne from our faitliest to the east and west, or 
 more properly north-east and north-west from ilw shij>, 
 were not perhaps more than a hundred and twenty, and 
 sixty miles respectively, but many hundreds of miles 
 were passed over in their accomplishment, from the 
 iiTegularity of the coa.st-line and frequent occasions of 
 return. 
 
 On this last journey I had no civilised companion ; 
 for eleven days Tuski were my sole comrades, nor 
 had I the slightest uneasiness among them, although 
 now visiting a quarter cpiite new to us, and of whose 
 
 f; 
 
MY TRAVELI.IXi (UM IAN IONS. 
 
 191 
 
 |M'()])1'' many had never hvvu tbr Atwoi or its 
 (!ii!)owolt!. Sfcurc ill tln' iVinuliy aiiiiniis lu-arly 
 nlwuys (lis|)layt!(l and now spcukiiif^ the hnigna}<t.' 
 with Honir tacihiv, f jo^'izcd alnnrr \\lrli ,,iy savaj^o 
 friends (piite coinplaaMilly, and never was allowed to 
 lag Inhind or need assistanee ; an extra dog would bo 
 speedily aHorded if my own team lacked s[)eed to 
 keep pace with the rest, and on all necasions of 
 Imlting, unharnessing, &e., many wdling hands 
 superseded my (»wn efi'orts 
 
 We were singularly uufortnnate during this trip 
 ill the weatlier, and in eonseciuence I made vcny few 
 observations for position, tlie <ii|)ping-iieedle aeeoni- 
 panied me as usual (together with the eopper tiddh;, 
 we three vvi.'re inseparable), and I obtaiiaul a few 
 results of the magnetic declination and intensity, l)ut 
 otherwise littUi of importances was achieved beyond 
 gaining additional knowledge of the manners and 
 customs of this veiy pccnliar people. Some curious 
 but cruel modes of punishing the dogs were witnessed, 
 whi(;h one could scarcely suppose would (!veu lie 
 invented as a cliastisenient. The dogs turn very 
 sulky and obstinate sometimes ; 1 have frecpiently 
 seen them stop short in a most determined nui.aier, 
 either offended with their fellows, tlu: road, or the 
 driver, and scarcely any amount of punishmenl, in 
 
 » ^ 1 
 
192 
 
 TREATMENT OF DOGS. 
 
 )' , 
 
 1 ' ! ■ 
 
 the regular way, will then induce them to budge. If 
 the whip is applied, they throw themselves down in 
 the snow, howl vigorously at first, their cries gradually 
 subsiding into a short moan at each blow ; occa- 
 sionally a good whipping has the desired effect, and 
 the dog resumes its labour, but the struggle for 
 supremacy between Tuaster and beast is often [)r()- 
 tracted and severe. I have seen men, who knew the 
 temper of the dog they vv(;re about to punish, 
 deliberately dispose themselves to the task, j)lace oni; 
 foot upon their sledge, and, throwing back their arms 
 to clear their dress, rain down blow after blow upon 
 the wretched creature, sometimes for t(!n minutes or 
 a quarter of an hoiu' continuously ; it is seldom this 
 treatment fails of success, and the beast, if subdued, 
 becomes tractable enough fo)' a long time : but on 
 one occasion, Amtm, a man of a particularly cold- 
 blooded and savage natun?, being disph^ased with the 
 conduct of one of his dogs, (juietly drew his knife, 
 stal)b<^d the animal in two places, unhai-nessed it, 
 wiptnl the blade of Ins weapon on its coat, and 
 proceeded on his visit to tht^ ship witliout the least 
 ccmcern. 
 
 When ordinary modes of chastisement have failed, 
 the proceedings then instituted are very curions 
 inde(.d. Tiie driver gets o1f his sledge, seizes the 
 
A NOVEL PDNISHMKNT. 
 
 193 
 
 the (log whicli has iiiisroiuluck'd itsrlf, aiid niukcs a 
 nice litt](3 hole in tlie snow, in whicli lie arranges the 
 nntbrtunatt; wretch's nose with the greatest cart; and 
 attention to its suitable position ; having thns nuule 
 due preparation, he pounds away at the snout of his 
 victim with the butt-end of his whij>, which is geuc- 
 rally a piece of heavy flat ivory, in the most 
 reuKU'seless manner. I used, particularly on Rrst 
 viewing tins novel punishment, to be under great 
 fears that the noses of the poor beasts must inevitably 
 be broken or crushed, but no such consequence 
 ensued, nor had our remonstrances any effect ; 
 punishment had been determined on, and it was 
 certainly administered without wavering. If the 
 snow was too soft foj' the purpose, the man's foot 
 was often phiced as a sujiport for the victim's 
 nose. This punishment must be dreadful ; the dogs 
 know pcrf(!ctly well wliat is coming the instant their 
 masters touch tlu^m, and treml)l{; in every limb they 
 do not attempt to howl loudly, nnd wh( n released only 
 make an occasional short yell as they run ; the most 
 stubborn tem])ers are subdued in this way ; no more 
 troul»le will he. given in the day's drive one may be 
 ipiite assured ; it is a most summary way of iiulucing 
 snbmission. 
 
 liiunillane received the solitaiy stranger with tokens 
 
 :|. 
 
194 
 
 NATIVE HOSI'ITALITY 
 
 of great satisfaction, the place of honour by the lamp 
 and at tin.' l)oar(l were awarded hin>, and no means 
 spared to prove that he was welcome. Wviu^ 
 informed by Belkonta, who was of the party, how 
 little the ordmajy food was to the taste of the 
 strangers, only preparations of venison were offered, 
 and J feasted Uke an ahhi'man. IS'othing eqnalkul 
 the pcmmican for flavour or snbstance ; it AA-as 
 manufactured of the hnest fresh meat, boiled and 
 mixed with hard fat, put into bladders and allowed 
 to freeze, in which state it was delicious, and pai- 
 ticulai'ly refreshing in the heated yarangas Hy the 
 way, I cannot undirrstand how the natives can 
 endure these great extn.-mes of heat and cold ; 1 have 
 quitted an outward ti-mperature of — 20" to enter 
 yarangns where th(> thermometer registered + 100'; 
 a change of a hundred and twenty degrees in one day 
 seems almost cnnugh to kill one, but this is t;xpe- 
 rienced i)y the Tuski pretty well during their entire 
 hves, and they ar(> certamly hardy and robust 
 enough. 
 
 On our return tlu' spring had fairly set in, and 
 the noond.'i) power of t,he sun sol'tmuid the surface 
 of ihv snow, which speedily fro/i' again, on tiie 
 withdrawal of his beams The face of the country 
 Itccame one \a>t slieet (»f shining >parkim^ white 
 
SVOW-HLINDNKSSS. 
 
 \\Ki 
 
 Avliirh rortccted the sun's niys iuid uiflirn-d givjit 
 iii(joiivciii(.'iK.'<^ and m some cas(,s nmcl> pnin in tho 
 eyes. The sensations attending !sno\v-l)lindness, whieli 
 I partially experienced, are a^ luipli.'asaut us may 
 well be nnagined ; one feels as it' nunierons pricking- 
 morsels hadentej-cid llieeyes, tlie lids wijik nicess.antly, 
 and streams of water are I'Nnded tliis was the 
 extent of my suil'crings, but iu aggra^ated cases the 
 niHainmation increases, lla- lids Ix'come ivlaxed, 
 and the patient loses the i)()vvt;i* of vision entnely for 
 a time, and siitTers mtense pain iquai ex[)osnre to a 
 strong light ; darkness and coohng lotions, such jis 
 sugar of lead, diluted spirits, .md laudanum, are now 
 tsiiential to relief and recovery ; but I believf that those 
 who have once been atfiieted with tins \er\ jxiinful 
 disorder, can never again expose themselves to th(* 
 spring snow for any period without experiencing a 
 return, and no doidjt the e}esight is much weakened 
 bv it. At tliis time also the dogs' feet sutler iiiiich 
 from the tuiiiiile crystals on the hard crast oi tin! 
 snow ; they become vjM'v sore, and sometimes bleed. 
 The natives have in conse(pience little socks of leathei' 
 which tie on the paws, .uid are u great protection. 
 The speed with uhich oiu' tnivels is however mnch 
 increased fi'om the diminution of friction, and when 
 there is it inick the dogs keep along it m a, 
 
 o 2 
 
 
 V 
 
 i. 
 
 
 '-^' 
 
 i.i ': 
 
 
 . •'* ■ 
 
 i ^i. 
 
>:i 
 
 19G 
 
 TRAVELLING CONVIVIALITIES. 
 
 continuous trot, re([uiriiig very little attention. A.t such 
 times the usual watchfulness is relaxed, the sledges 
 are allowed to run side by side, or the riders seat 
 themselves sideways on their carriages, and convcise 
 agreeably, or eat a bit of lunch together, combining 
 their stores, on om* part )• few pieces of biscuit, and, 
 as n great favour, a wee taste of ay-ke-misch, on the 
 other side a store <»f pemmican, or dried fish, 
 pounded fine, which is by no means a disagreeable 
 condiment, having much ^he flavour (51 caviare. 
 
 A j)resent of homu:*oi)athic quantities of sugar 
 and leaf tobacco to my companion would now put 
 him in possession of a la-lo()p, and an inunense fund 
 of good-humour ; a fumigation on my part niade 
 me equally content ; thus we jogged along trnu- 
 quilly at peace with the world and each otjun 
 Somt>times we struck up a song, alternately or 
 togtitlier, Relkontri, who acted as my guide on 
 this excursion, and was veiy intelligent, (piickly 
 following lead, and endeavouring, with some success, 
 to repeat the words ; but of all sounds, and I tried 
 all I knew Cor e\|K'rinient, none suited iiini so we^ll 
 as (ierma]i, which he n'peated after me with nmch 
 facility, and learned s(!vei'al words of a favourite song 
 of mine. At this season " mirage "' displays its 
 wonders of distoi'tion to a great extent, it j)roduces 
 
'! } . 
 
 NATIVE ATHLETIC GAMES. 
 
 197 
 
 I i 
 
 many curious cfFects which are often very deceptive. 
 I was much diverted by the a])pearanco of some 
 natives on th(; sunnnit of a lull about two miles 
 distant from us ; they were much magnified, and 
 their forms perverted by the haze ; tluiir waddlinpf 
 gait was increased to a roll whieli was irn^sistibly 
 ludicrous. We halted for a night at Wootair, on 
 our return, and I was made partaker in anuisements 
 and exercises, some of which were luiw to me. 
 
 Two men seated theniselves feet to (eet on the 
 Hoor of the yarang, and each strove to j)ull tlie other 
 towards him, which was the auu of the struggle. 
 In another game they contended in a similar manner, 
 but squatting upon hams and knees, with their legs 
 bent under them. In a third trial, a circular band 
 was passed over the necks of the pair, each of whom, 
 leaning back, exerted his best endeavoui's to prove 
 himself the most headstrong — a complete satire upon 
 matrimony. Several oiher kinds of gynmastics \\ere 
 practised, all calling for great museidar efibrt ; the 
 natives jumped fair distances, but c(ndd not e(|ual 
 us in a jump of height, yet they have a very curious 
 spring, which we \verc not at all able to match them 
 ill ; this was leaping right off the ground, kicking, 
 while in the air, a bar or rope fre(|uentlv breast high. 
 In the yarangas they sinng themsc.'lves by one or 
 
198 
 
 AMUSEMENTS. 
 
 other liml), nnd performed some jmzzliiig but not 
 otherwise diifieult contortions. 
 
 In nil sneh exercises we always took a part, b»n 
 were careful to avoid the sUglitest approach to anger 
 or aimoyance ; wrestling was tlie only pastime at all 
 hazardous in this respect, as our laws were different 
 to theirs, and the custom of one side might not he 
 considered fair on the other, it was thenifore rarelv 
 practised. Ever willing to ])romote amusement, 1 
 introduced many of our own gtnncs; some were compre- 
 liended and fairly imitated. Two rather undignihed 
 feats I was very fond of performing, as a challenge 
 to my friends, whose invariably unsuccessful atten]])ts 
 to do Hkewise never failed to create stifling merri- 
 ment among the spectators ; the lirst was, standing 
 on my head, which they did not all understand 
 how to manage, the other was throwing somers(!ts 
 baekwjirds from a recumbent ])osture ; this mameuvre 
 all were unable to accomplish, from the ill-ajiaiiged 
 balance of their figures, only ore person ever 
 following me, and he was much more expert than I 
 for a very good reason ; tin; poor fellow had no legs, 
 or iit least only short stumps remaining, so had no 
 leverage to overcome; the history of his misfortune, 
 told to me in his j)re.senee, showed that even men 
 so hardy nuist sometimes succumb to the rigour of 
 
1 
 
 THE CRIPPI.K. 
 
 199 
 
 i 
 
 tlieir (Innnte, and rocallod with lively rocol lection tluj 
 period of privation (experienced hy iiiy cojrijjiinions 
 and niyseif on a late occasion, nnd (ronjured np 
 painful images of the horrihlf fiit(.' avc niigliL have 
 met. On an occasion when it was necessary to drive 
 the reindeer to a distance iiihuid lui pasture, this 
 uian, with another, had j)erfornie(l the task, and 
 wliile cjigaged in tending I hem, v)r perhaps on the 
 return joui'iiey, were sun'ouiidiul hy a snow storm, 
 lost their way, and v\ere two days and nights 
 exposed to the? lowest temperatiire, TIkj end of 
 this peiiod t'oiind his comrade a i-igid corpse, and 
 himself a hopeless cripple, his legs being frtr/en quite 
 through nearly to the thighs , how he reached liojue 
 1 do not know, nor how lie recovered from siicli a 
 horrible conditiou ; most ])rol)ab1y he was sought 
 for, or perhaps dragged himself to the nearest, hamlet, 
 and vigour of constitution uiust iiave Naved lum 
 from sinking under the tetUous and trviug i)erioil 
 of recovery; here; he was at any rate stumping along 
 upon the two remnants of legs, each of which ha 1 
 a broad flatt(nied ])ad beneath, to serve as a sort 
 of foot, vMthout which he would sink nito the snow. 
 
 I do not know any sight more calculated to excite 
 Iv'elings of connuiseration and melancholv retlection, 
 than that of a strong man, full of powej- and activity, 
 
•iOO 
 
 ACK OF NATIVKM. 
 
 ' t. 
 
 I I 
 
 struck down in an instant- to n inutilut<Hl ivml Imlplcss 
 condition : lie who bt;forc, perhaps, towered uhove liis 
 fellows, now inov(!s below the smallest, he who was 
 the ready protector of the weak, now blesses a fragile 
 woman for assistance. Only blindness cqn '1s so 
 sad a condition — that is hel))lessness indeed. » he 
 man whose sad story I have just related, was among 
 the finest of the natives, he hud evidently been very 
 tall, had a handsome, rather intellectual face, and 
 was still quite young, perhaps not more than thirty. 
 
 It M'as quite ini])08sible to arrive at any conclusion 
 ri;specting the ages of tlu^se people, or their average 
 tenn of existence; the age to which they might 
 arrive it is of course (pnte useless to seek, as the 
 thread is cut short in so reckless a manner, but I 
 have no do\d)t that they reach an advanced j)eriod 
 of life, and that a hundred years would not be too 
 extended n limit to assign them. An old woman 
 at Wt)otai)' had lost every particle of hair, was utterly 
 blind, nearly toothless, and u very atotny for 
 emaciation , this poor old creatun?, shrivt^lled and 
 sightless, umst have been very agttd, a'ld the only 
 wondi^r is tliat she had been so long permitted to 
 live, for ullhongh we were only made ac(|Uiunted 
 with one instance of matricide, the niter apathy with 
 which the (lee<l was done and the. tidings commui\[- 
 
it 
 
 CIlIIiDRKN S AMUSKMENTS. 
 
 201 
 
 catcd, proved it to Ijt; an event of (V<M|iiont, indeed 
 habitual (xicurrenee. VVo vcr hear 1 i){ any 
 instance of infanticide, so can make no eonnnent 
 
 upon 
 
 tlje information nreived l)y Wran<?ell, that all 
 ornie( 
 
 weakl}' and deformed children are destroyed ; wlietlier 
 tliis is the case or otlierwise, I can only remark, that 
 1 never saw the parent's love for their offspring more 
 strongly exemplified than here ; the nativ(^s absolutely 
 doat upon their children, partieidarly in their earher 
 years, expend much time, ingenuity, and expense 
 upon their clothes, and cram them with all sorts of 
 (|i;licacies ; but it is probable Wrangell's information 
 was correct, as I never renKnnber to have seen a 
 deformity nor childrtm of sickly constitution. 
 
 It is very curious to observe how in all lands the 
 anmsements of the children follow in miniatui-e the 
 occupations of their elders. Few countries are there 
 where dolls are not a gieat resource ; the Tuski 
 children have theirs ; make and clothe them with the 
 minutest attention to details ; every article of dress is 
 provided, imd everything puts on and off in the })ro|)er 
 manner ; the boys have miniature sledges, boats, and 
 bows and arrows, the girls tlieir dolls, and also 
 cmbroitlery, which they early begin to practise as a 
 pastime, and soon become ex[)ert in. 
 
 I returned to the "Plover" on the l.Cth of April, 
 
 
 r If 
 
mH 
 
 VISIT I'llOM A HKAll. 
 
 1' 
 
 and wns iinn\uiliut»;ly (K'S])ntrli(Hl to Hurvoy tlio main 
 hraiich of till' liai*l)oiir, in tbo lessor fork of vvhicli wo 
 wore located ; the tracks of bears, probably the griz/ly, 
 were now b(!coniing numerous, and I caiuiot but 
 consider that myself and companion, one of the crew, 
 had u very narrow escape from death by one of tluise 
 aninuds. As I was about to go on with work at sonu; 
 distance from tlie ship, we took, one morning, the 
 tent and several other articles, intending to remain 
 out a night or two, but heavy mist ami drizzling snow 
 coming on, 1 resolved to return that day and resume; 
 on the nlorrow^ Accordingly :ve dug to some depth 
 in tlu^ snow and buried the tent, and with it, among 
 other things, a pair of snow-boots, which I had brought 
 for a change in case of need. Next day on returning 
 to the spot we found the track (jf a veiy large l)eur 
 leading to it, and discovered that tlu^ brute had 
 exhumed our buried goods, and finding nothing to its 
 taste, had bitten my snow-boots all to pieces, through 
 an incii of ct)rk and wooilen pins, which nuist have 
 sadly lorn its mouth. ; it had scattered everything 
 about as if in mischief or rage, and j)ulled down our 
 marking staves, which were bitten all to pieces. As 
 these brutes arc! very ferocious, particuliu'ly when 
 hungry, 1 think we were fortunate in our absence, nor 
 did we after this think it wise to risk a night's stay 
 
THE 
 
 I'LoVfct 
 
 V K I .( » V I 
 
 203 
 
 oiil, iiiul iilvvnys currii'd lin'-nrmN. \\\ ihr fi i<© thii» 
 liisk was concluded \vr lind Ix'^un to cdi i. .f oiiv 
 icy prison, ii work wliicli lidly miploycd oui mhjiII 
 crew for tlic umjor pint ol' n miohiIi Tlu! distance 
 IVoni the slnp to tho cd^c oi' the ici' was about a 
 mile and a (|uartcr, and tlie ice avcra^vd (juitc five 
 Icct, in tliickno88. TIuh work avus conlunied throU|jdj 
 some very sev(Mc weatlier, uitliuut other than una- 
 voidable cessation, and we Mere heartily <>;hid on the 
 
 aiie ot Ufiler reiielnim* to 
 
 I.Jrh of .Inne to see a clear I 
 
 the long imprisoned " IMovei, ' which so(>ii (|in!l.e(l her 
 
 icy 
 
 cradle " and lay once more frei- tm the bosian ol 
 
 tl 
 
 U' wav 
 
 e This event well iiiirh 
 
 eoju 
 
 hided 
 
 our 
 
 communications wilh the 'liiski We anchored m;ai 
 Woorel and were invaded bv an almost unbroken 
 stream of atwoits, which wi-re crowded with iiativ»;s, 
 who came to take a hist farewell of the friends ko hitely 
 made to be so soon separated. The j^realei number 
 of our visitants were women, the men bi'iiijj; diliij;eiirly 
 eniriiL'ed m iiiakiii'' the most of (heir brief season of 
 summer: they caim laden with presents, uild-fuwl, 
 which had tiow arrived in immbers , eggs , boots, 
 bells, and {gloves all finely tinbroith'red, and vvhalever 
 else they thought would l)e appreciated I ha\emneh 
 satisfaction in recording an in^tan(•e of giatefnl feeling 
 which occurred at this tiiiu, a lively proof of the 
 
 I 
 
2(14 
 
 TIIK DKSIIIKI* <)l .\l,l, KYKH. 
 
 M 
 
 11 
 
 t'xistriu't' iiin<)ii{^ I his pi'opK' of the best emotions ol 
 tl>.c lu^art liiui no other hcoii aH'onhul. 
 
 or nil till' jirticU's of dn-ss [Mtsscsscd by onr friends, 
 none was more coveted than a [)air of l>reeehes made 
 l»y Cavmj^liche for her hn^band Metra . some one 
 among iis had si^en tliem wlien on a visit to Wootair, 
 (laymgliehe displa3'ing them with lionest pride, and 
 the encomiums on that occasion ndhuned the rest witli 
 a desire to \iew ajul to possess these wondrous 
 ine\[)ressil)les, wliieli wen? indeed very handsome, 
 beinjjf spl(>ndidly dressed dogskin, with long glossy 
 and perfectly jet bhick hair. They created ipiite a 
 furore, but Cavmtfliche was deaf to all mo(h'rate or 
 even good otfers, and placed u prohibitory price 
 upon them, notwithstaiuling which hopes were still 
 entertained of their b( ing yieldeil at a lower price 
 by an<l bv. 
 
 .l)iiiing one of the mriny visits T made to Wootuir, 
 C'aymgliche was snttcring greatly from violent headache 
 and low fever, which, as there was no one present better 
 (pialiiied, 1 endeavoured to rehini!; bandaged her 
 head with handkerchiefs di|)pcd in cooUng lotions, 
 prepared some savoury broth, and in fact did a good 
 d(!al in tlu' nursing way, which would have made me 
 a subject for mirth among my coin|)aiiioiis, and I dare 
 say with many of my fan' rca<lers toi^ 'J'ln' laugh 
 
1 
 
 ('AYM(il,l(HK THK (iKMIIMI, 
 
 :>(>:» 
 
 mny pnss, 1 vvuh rcwardud hy s('«'in<jj my piiticnt 
 (•(Hivjilrscciit uiid very tliiiiikrnl lor iii\ little can', nud 
 n'tuniinf^ to the slii[» I soon lost sij^'lit of the 
 o(riirn'UC'«! Not so ('nyinj,'li( lie, lui- <rnititu<lc hud 
 iviiuiiiHHl ii) lull forcf, and wit li a delicacy of seiitiiiienl 
 one woiilil hardly suppose to exist ui a iinnd so untu- 
 tored, she determined to display, l»y an unnnstakeahle 
 token, her recoj^nition of my sli^rht service; accord- 
 ingly, when with Yaneenga and others she came on 
 board on the hist visit, I was surprised that in additi- • 
 to the oft'erings of iliy friend Mooldooyah's wl.'e, 
 Caymgliche also hud her tribute toliesiow, and amo^ 
 the treasures of her donation were the nnicli coveti-d 
 name-lhem-nots. This was aneiiign'a I could not 
 for an instant suppose; that Cnyingliclie, who with her 
 husband had the cliaracter of " screws," could mean 
 otherwise than " tok," and rpiickly asked her ])rice, but 
 the poo? creature vvitli eagerness and delight made me 
 nnderstaiid that my acceptance was all she desired, and 
 with Yanerngu explained the reason for h( !• conduct. 
 . CayingUche had I trust no rejison to npenl her 
 
 K' 
 
 nerous determination. 1 turn from this act which 
 
 calls for so nmch admiration to one which was eipially 
 culpable us the other was praiseworthy, and which 1, 
 for nw shame is now to be recorded, have never. 
 
 ri( 
 
 licid( 
 
 )us as it may seem, ceased to reij;ret N 
 
 o 
 
20«1 
 
 TTIK imOKEN I'ROT.irSP, 
 
 IM 
 
 
 1. r / 
 
 articles m oin possesbion wciv more rovctcd than 
 combs, mid as we luul only a Hnp])ly for onr ttwii iis(j, 
 the natives wcjrc not very succcssfni in the f'nltillMicnt 
 of their desires on tliis head. My faithfnl friend 
 Yaneenga, who had ever striven witli sncli e\ein|)lary 
 attention to ])rovide me with whatever she tlionglit 
 vvonki l)e prized, begged but foi' one token, which wouhl 
 l)e alike valuable for tise and as a memorial : this 
 desired object was a comb, but as I i)n1y posscssi-d 
 one, and in the peculiar circumstances of our sojourn 
 dared not risk its deprivation, i promised to give hi>r 
 one moiety thereof, I'etainmg tlu^ other. With l)lame- 
 able negligence I omitted to do this until too late; 
 occupied with many duties I did not notice the 
 departure of tlu^ boats, and I fear Yaneenga uj)braids 
 to this day the ungrateful stranger who could be ho 
 unmindful of her parting wish as to neglect to give her 
 what, to him a tritle, was to her so ardentl) coveted a 
 treasure ; if ever 1 see her again, or can send, sIk; 
 shall have a gross. 
 
 I have now little more to say of the Tuski, wc had 
 imly tritling further coumiunication with them in our 
 passage up Behriiig's Straits, and a Itrief summary 
 will conclude your ae(juaintanc(! with them We 
 sailed from l']nuna s llurbour at the end of June, and 
 proceech'd u[> Heluing's Straits, aiichonng several 
 
 r ,( 
 
fl 
 
 FAREWELL TO TH K Tl'SKl. 
 
 J07 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 times near i\\v Asiatic sliorc, on vvliidi occasions 
 junitics of our friends visited the sliip. Tlie lasst i)oiiit 
 of contact was tin; Bay of St. Liinrcncc, on whoso 
 shoi-e stjinds N )onalini()ne, and near wliich Alinioleeii, 
 of Yandangah, resided; lie soon caiiie on lioard, ami 
 kindly supplied us with several reindee.r for fresh 
 ])rovision. Preparations weve uiade at thi- time to 
 despatch boats to th(^ coast of Aiueriea, to proceed 
 along it to the eastward, iis lij^lit wind.s crc-ated fears 
 of the delay of the shi]), but a fair bnx'ze spri)igin<T 
 u|), the order for their departure was countenuanded, 
 and bidding farewell to Asia, and the j)eople among 
 whom we had so long tarriiul, we steered for Kotzebue 
 Sound, on the American coast, and anchored near 
 Chaniisso [sltuid on the I 1th of -lidy ; much lee^, 
 several American whalers, and nudtitudes of whales, 
 seals, ualrus, and wild-fowl, luumg been seen on the 
 passage from oiu' wintermg-place. 
 
 We had now taken leave of a race, whose 
 characttu' and attributes, as thev were preseuted to 
 oui- view, 1 cann(»t on the whoh- regard in other than a 
 favourable light. Previous slight accpiaintance has 
 represented tliein as fien;e, warlike, and intractable ; 
 there is undoubtedly a s])irit of independence, nnited 
 with mdomitable courage, which would had them 
 as reported ol lIu'U' coiiduci when mvaded, t(» ivsist 
 
;J08 
 
 CHAIlArTKU OF NATIVES. 
 
 
 I .1 
 
 all endeavours at subjujj^atiou with coiistuncy and 
 rtrinness ; but of this, wc whose intentions and rcla- 
 tioTia W(;rc avowedly and undeviatingl}' pacific^ hjul 
 110 active proof. My evpi'i'ienocs lead nie tn 
 eharaeterise them as phlegmatic, deliberate in speech 
 and action ; naturally hidolent, perhaps, but obUgiu) 
 by the scanty resources of their land to 1)( stir them- 
 selves in |)roviding subsistence and the very few 
 comforts they possess; Avorthy of confidence, althougli 
 shrewd at a bargain, and in occasional instances 
 displaying a j)ilfering tendency ; (which, however, 1 
 believe; was exercised only upon the pro[)ei ty of the 
 strang(!r) and e\en this sonu; I am sure scorned to 
 participate in .; hospitable in the extreme, and 
 exceedingly fond of company. Of tlie structure of 
 their rehgion I know very little. Magic and e\il 
 spirits are certahily constituents ; how far the former 
 is extended I am ignorant, as also whethi^r they 
 worshij) or simjily deprecate the displcnisure of 
 the latter in their c(;remomes. T have no means of 
 judging of their belief in a bonign spirit, but incline 
 to the view that the sun is importantly count. cted 
 with their notions, and that they assign to each of 
 the •>Ienients, .iid even perhaps the different winds 
 and other natural objcjts, a controllhig and disjiensing 
 spirit. 
 
 
 i' 
 
 I! J 
 
AMOK I'ATUI.K. 
 
 'H)\) 
 
 Of their social roiulitioii iiiv iiiirrative offers nearly 
 !i sutHcieiit picture ; they are in a rneasni-c; sociahsts, 
 and divided into distinct snmll brotherhoods of a 
 very peculiar nature, fioni which, as I understand, 
 their designation of Tuski is dei'ivcd. They afford 
 an additional proof of the love of home alike in 
 j)eo})le of savage as luxurious climes ; questions as 
 to whether they would leave their country and go 
 with us to see new wonders, and obtain riches in 
 profusion, elicited, notwithstanding the dazzling 
 prospect, only decided refusal. 
 
 As regards matrinior y, it may briefly be remarked, 
 that polygamy is a matter of choice, and repudiatitm 
 a recognised, although not a frecjuent, j)ractice. 
 Betrothals take place at an early age, and often 
 without regard to ecpiality of the pair in that respect ; 
 a dowry is certainly bestowed with the wife. In 
 the arts ami sciences tlu.-ir advance has necessarily 
 been limitcul, but ingenuity, patience, and skill, are 
 disphiyed m no ct)mmon degree m all their perform- 
 ances. Boats, sledges, dresses. im])lements, and toys, 
 all bear the stani]) of careful and suitable adaptation 
 to their several uses. 
 
 Regarding their trade and (^onnnerce, tlie system 
 ['< entirely one of " tok," or barter : th 'v connnunicate 
 with the Russians at Kolyma, and >u I he Anadvr. 
 
 ■\' 
 
 
210 
 
 NATURAL IMIODUCTIONS OF Tl SKI-LAND. 
 
 ' :! 
 
 and indirectly with the F^squiiuaux of Ainerica, by 
 the people of the Diomede Ishinds, in the sti-aits. 
 There is also some slight cominiinicatioii with the 
 island of St. Lawrence, but cnmitv exists between its 
 natives and themselves, and nioi'c than one proof was 
 afforded that tliey redneed to hoiuhige anv of 
 those people wdio, on fishing or other excursions, 
 were driven iiprn their coast ; a snffieiently nngene- 
 rous proceeding, and one at variance with thrir 
 general hospitality, but practised probably by way of 
 reprisal. 
 
 I have already remarked upon the scantiness of 
 vegetation, from which they hav(? but slight aid 
 except in the subsistence of their reindeer, besides 
 some few roots and a long dry grass, which they plait 
 into hats and baskets of clos(! texture, nearly 
 impervious to water. The only wild animals with 
 which we were accpiairited, were bears, wr)lves, foxes, 
 sable, otters, eru'ine, hares, the big horn or great 
 sheep of Siberia, ,iiid perhaps rtjindeer ; the tame ones 
 w'ere reindeer and dogs ; the latter aiv generally 
 small and shaggy, tlieir l)ark, or rather yell, is most 
 melancholy, and when n number join in chorus, the 
 wail, particularly at night, is startling, and almost 
 unearthly. 
 
 In concluding this portion of my book, I beg to 
 
PORTRAIT OF Al'TIJOR. 
 
 211 
 
 present to my readers a spceinnn of Tnski diavving, 
 being in faet my likfnkss, diavvn l)y lliun'h, tlie 
 ( •anny lud. Like most portraits, it, is too ftattej-ing. 
 
 AIY rollTItAJT. 
 
 r 2 
 
PAKJ' 11, 
 
 BOAT EXPKDri'lON 
 
 — ♦- • 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Arrive in Kotzelme Souik). — Mosqiiitos, First viev of E.-iquimaux. — 
 Joiueil liy '• Henild'' and " Nancy .D-'.wson. - -Midiiigbt Sun. Start on 
 (I, Hoat expedition.- -Visit uf Ks(iiiiui.^iix. - Moor to Ice lln- iniock.-- 
 E8i|uimaux Music .'ind OiincJDg.— Tlireateninp attitude of Natives.-- 
 Burying Circund, Anchor at I'oint Hiinow. — LauguaL'e of Sitiuti. 
 — Magnetic (M.sorvatious, — Doscnptinn of Natives. C'uucort. - 
 Ooruiak. — Bury Intelligence. — \\'lmlobone H.>nge.- Part from " Niuicy 
 Daw8on."— Mr. Shedden. 
 
 The t'tlort to (les|)atch the party for seaj'ch along 
 the coast, was i-cpcattid the moi'iiiiig after reaching 
 Kotzebue Soinid. Lieutenant Lee, with myself and 
 crews m (jinnace and gig, staiced at an efirly hour 
 on the L^)*.n (July), and we had nearly lost sight of 
 the parert " Ph:)ver," when a glimpse of H. M 3 
 " Herald " and guns from our own vessel, cjdling us 
 to return, the rc^smuption of the trip was delaytul for 
 a time The Herald" had heen despatched to 
 replenish om supplies, and otherwise aid ui forwarding 
 the objects of our mission, and both ships' crews 
 
 
 i I 
 
h'lHST VIEW OF liSlil'IMAl'X 
 
 213 
 
 wvrc tlicrc'foro iinniedifttcly set to work to transfer 
 stores {111(1 ])rovisioiis. [.ioatenant riilleii, who lield 
 the origiiinl ap,y)iiitiiu'iit to the " IMomm-," iiiut liad 
 now arriv(ul in the "ilerald," exrhaMg(;d |)laces with 
 Lieutenant Lee, the lattcu' otfiecr going into the 
 " Herald" to join his own sliip, the '* Asia." 
 
 Observation? were taken on Clianiisso L^land, those 
 engaged snlfernig nrneh IVoui the attaeks of njiis- 
 (|uitos of elephantine proportions. A cask of floiw 
 whieh Captain Beechy, of 11. M. S. "IMossoni," huried 
 in 1820, was exhnnied, and found to hv very little 
 detcriorat(,'d. 
 
 Our tirst view of Esipiiniaux was obtained here ; 
 between twenty and tliirty men in two banhus (the 
 term now generally used for this species of boat), 
 visiting us on several occasions ; they were (juite 
 friendly, though at first rather shy. I believe 
 Lieutenant CoopcT and others of the "'Ilerahl" rernein- 
 bered some of them, and were recognised with delight 
 in their turn, having met them when the " Ibivild" 
 sought the ''Plover" h<;reat this time last year. They 
 siole nothing, but 1 am not charitable enough to 
 ac(|nit them of the desire to do so ; subsc.MpuMit expe- 
 rience forbids so favourable a construction of their 
 intemions. 
 
 On the 18th, the "]I(>rald" and "Plovcu'" weighed 
 
iilL 
 
 THE MIUNKUIT SIN. 
 
 at an early hour, and ran out of the anc'horaf3;e ; they 
 were shortly joined by the yaelit " Naney Dawson," 
 owned and connnanded hy a nol)le-lieurtLd man, 
 named Shedden, of whom I Mhall presently have 
 occasion to speak, in language, alas ! of mourning 
 as well as of admiration. The three v(!ssels pro- 
 ceeded in company to the northward, along tlv 
 American shore, until the 2bih, when the ancliors 
 were dropped off Waiuwright Inlet, which it was 
 hoped might be found suitable for the " riov ;r " to 
 winter in. Ordy two incnlents occujring on our 
 j)iissage hither, will find record in my pages , a view 
 of the midnight sun, which, w^hen seen for the first 
 time, cannot fail to excite new emotions and refltic- 
 tions in the observtuit mind ; and the profusion of 
 life in the waters through which we [)ass(M! ; a mid- 
 night w'at(.'h in a nearly calm nig^it made me a 
 sharer with subdued t'lijoyment in a scene strange as 
 imposing. Whales near and afar throwing u|) 
 mighty volumes of water, v ith a urtise like the sobs 
 of a huge steam-engine ; walruses and seals innumer- 
 able, the tbrmer growling and gruntmg in a peculiar 
 manner, the latter barking nmch like; do;<f; ; eider 
 and other ducks almost in myiiads, rising on our 
 approach in chmds from the S(>a. All (his was new 
 and imj)ressive enough. 
 
START ON HOAT KXIM.DlTroN , 
 
 JilT) 
 
 - 
 
 The two com 
 
 iiiiiud 
 
 (M'S. 
 
 aWvU nml M 
 
 oovc 
 
 IliUl 
 
 ivsolvcd to nuikc this the start iiig jx.int tor (Ik olt- 
 tped expedition ulonjj; tlu,' coast, and busy prcpanitions 
 were iimiiediat(!ly iii; titiited to that end. 
 
 Aiiorher pen than mine must record the cvenls in 
 the remainder of the '' IMover's " tli,i;lit ; I lia\e to tell 
 of the doings of her l)anthn;j:s, from whirh she now 
 8epari:ted, and of wliieh eiiuuo;li of interest and 
 adventure may be rehded. 
 
 F«)ur l)oats wi.Te selected for the coni(MU])latcil 
 service : two of tliesc were hu'i^c, aiul capahh' of 
 containing much provision am! stores, and ntTording 
 great comfort and protection to theii' crews . l)ut 
 with these 1 siiall have little to do. 'Die other two 
 were whale boats, twenty-seven feet in leimlh and 
 nearly five in breadth, open from bou to l)ackl)oard, 
 
 pi 
 T 
 
 ovidiiiir 
 
 tlieref 
 
 orc^ no shelter Iroiu the weather, 
 
 wenty-five persons were com])rised m the crews of 
 all these boats, Lieutiinant Pulleii having command, 
 supported by Mr. Martin and myself. As much 
 provisions as could be carried were stowed jiway, 
 amounting to more than seventy days' allowance lor 
 th(! whole party, l)esides twenty eases of jx'mmican, 
 to be buiied along the coast, as dipot? for any parties 
 of the missing voyagers wlio might chance nj)on these 
 shores. 
 
 t h 
 
;>i() 
 
 wvr, Ill's, — wii.K rowi.. 
 
 i;, I 
 
 At iinirlv midiii^Mif, tlircc licurtv cliccrs I'roiii the 
 crews ot" tilt vcss(>Is, who iiiiimu'd iUv, ri}^<^ings to 
 SCO us away, sounded farewell to 01:1 little baud. 
 We retiii'iied their shouts vvith energy, and thus, 
 amid waving hands and re-(!ehoing adieus, we pro- 
 ceeded on our mission. The vi's.sels weighed also, 
 ami aocoiupanied us lor awhile, l)ul a dense log 
 gathering around, siton hid tliem from our view, mul 
 we were I'airlv alone to rely upon <.>uvselves. Few 
 points of interest mwd presented during the tirst 
 two oi' thrc:e days, walrus were plentiful, diuns with 
 a singlf young 'r..e, never more, the old laditvs lot)king 
 grave and sedate as a matron nee<l, the juveniles 
 frolicking ahout them as only young things can, 
 while here and there an old bull reared liis massive 
 Imt unsiglitly hciid, garnished by a pair ol tusks of 
 threatening dimensions. 
 
 The midnight sun on the 20th glow(;d like u hall 
 of tire through the hiuu, and promised little for 
 gcmial warmtli on liis rising, and I'irge Hocks of wild 
 fowl, principally geese, passed us from tiin^; to time, 
 generally going seaward. Karl} in the morning of 
 the 2!)th, we observed, on a point near Cape Sniythe, 
 seven Escpuinaux tents of seal-skin ; the inmates 
 were not observaljle, and vve thought tliem probably 
 ashx'p or iiucoiiseious of our vicinity ; not so, however , 
 
 ■^ 
 
1 
 
 K 
 
 VISIT n|.' KSt^l IM.W X. 
 
 217 
 
 01 
 
 Ix'forr U'c Imd |)ro('(M-(l(Ml linlf n i,iil(> they crowded 
 tin; Im'UcIi, (Hiickly Imiiik.'IkhI tlicir luMits, tollovvcd and 
 
 ciinio n[) with iis. llicy wvw very anxious to barter, 
 and dclif^litcd to rxrliangc aiiows, hoots of seal-skin, 
 oniaiK.'iits of ivory, tfce., for scraps of tobacco ov n 
 few heads; hut thev covcHcd more than all tise, ai 
 
 'y 
 
 tliiiif? of iron, gnzing npon il with lonj^^injj; eyes, and 
 we detected an old man cn(lcuvonrin<^ to appropriate 
 one of the chain-])latcs of the larger hoat (which, ior 
 the nifornuition of my non-nanlical friends, is a heavy 
 
 pii 
 
 'ce of iron bolted to tl.e side of the vessel, to scciu'e 
 
 the shrouds) ; he seemed rinich astonished that il 
 resisted his efforts. 
 
 VVIiile running hitherward. we had espied a vessel 
 standing in for the hnul, and speedily recognised the 
 " Nancy Dawson." Wv. wvnl on in (oinpany with her 
 until the afternoon, making, however, but slow pro- 
 gress, as the ice lay thi(^kly in cur path, and the boats 
 were tinallv secured to a heavv Innnmock of ice 
 which lay aground, and aUbrded good siielter, the 
 yacht anchoring a little below us. Mr. Slu;dden had 
 been some distance along the ice-barrier, but found 
 no break nor opemng of any knul, so soon returned. 
 
 It blew strongly next day, and the whid being 
 contrary, detained us in our position, which was not 
 far from Point Harjow. We were fortunate in 
 
 J 
 
218 
 
 MOOR TO 1( r.-IIUMMOCK 
 
 I ■ 
 
 possoHsiiig 80 good shelter, for the sen whs eovered 
 with drifting iee, .iiostly heuvy, and havi'ig some 
 dangerous hummocks amongst it: aiul the small herg 
 to which we were secured, had to withstaiul coutimiid 
 pressure and heavy sliocks Irom the wind and curreut- 
 (h'iven masses. 
 
 The " Nancy's " position was less enviable than 
 ours ; she was anchored in the full force of the stream, 
 and we inon^ tlian once feared for her safety, par- 
 ticularly on on(; occasion, when a small field of ici- 
 getting athwart her hawse, thrijatened to break her 
 from her anchors. Eventually she was warped up to 
 the same shelter as ourselves, and then h\y snug 
 enough. From the condition and appearance of llu 
 ice, JNIr. l*ullen canm to the conclusion that it would 
 probably be necessary to proceed with the smaller 
 boats oidy ; these were, therefore, loaded with seventy 
 days provisions for fourteen pc^rsons, in readiness for ,1 
 favourable op])ortinnty- Our friendly shelter jjroved 
 treacherous at last ; perhaps we taxed its powers too 
 far by the addition of the " Nancy: " it broke fairly 
 in halves, one part remaining aground, the othei' 
 Hoating off with us. We had, therefore, to get ni 
 shore as (piickly as |)0ssible, where such another small 
 bej'g aft'orded j)r<)lection, and W(' remained here until tin- 
 eveuijig, when the weather began to moderatt;, and the 
 
I'lMKO li\.N.\o». 
 
 210 
 
 mall 
 llu' 
 the 
 
 boats pnslii'd oil onrc inorc I'iissinjj; close to tlir 
 slioiT, vvf nttnicti'd tht' notice oi about fifty Ks(|uimuiix, 
 lo whom lu'loiiucfl h)ur ttiits near ; these shouted to 
 MS aM we rail by, vvnviii^ their anus ami (laiiciMg to a 
 drum ui a May which toicibly recalled ihe iiuitatiou of 
 their luaiiiuirs by certain amon^ the 'lu^ki, and J saw 
 that no actiiij? could bo Truer ; they accompauied us 
 ahaig the banks I'or (i considerabh- distance, but did 
 not come ofl' in their l)oats. 
 
 VV^e now began to find the channel murli obstnicteil 
 by ice, and on reachiiifi; th(r souIIutii part oj' a Uin\i 
 narrow pronjontory, whose iiorlheru extreme is Point 
 Harrow, found our propjress checked by a larjjje Hcte, 
 which disj)uti'd tia; ri<j;l)t of \va\ and constrained us 
 to tarry a whikv The l)oats v\ei'e secun-d to the 
 shore-ice and our men lay ilovvn to sleep. Two or 
 tiiree Ks(|uimaux cpiickly gathered near with bows in 
 readiness for (h'fcnce, we alM) ke[)t oui' arms at hand, 
 though concealed, and the \isitors suing that no evil 
 was intended discoiitiniied further pri'paration or 
 precaution, and came uiihout hesitalion lo receive 
 trifling presents or to Imrter their furs 
 
 Little was done on the 1st of August, short 
 distances were accomplislieil vMlh ditlieiiliy, sometimes 
 by sailing, at others tracking or towing, in which tlie 
 l';S(|Uimau-\ nadily assisted us, aiitl often wi had to 
 
 l\ 
 
 1 
 
220 
 
 THF liAND-FLOE. 
 
 If \i 
 
 
 i I 
 
 get out vii)on tlic ice and force the boats tlirougli in 
 various ways, but all was of little use ; we got over 
 perhaps thice miles by tlicise means, but at last came 
 to the land-floe, which had nevtir moved, and through 
 which, in its present state, there was no hope of 
 passing. 1 1 was, however, very nnich honeycombed, 
 and a great deal of water from the nu^lted snow hiy 
 upon it, whiel) gave us good j)rospe<'t8 of its sj)ee(!v 
 disiuption. We again secured to the shore, and were 
 visited by the people of twelve tents, which were on 
 tlie bank a (juarter of a mile distant ; great nmnbers 
 assendiled around us, noisy and wondering enough, 
 but (juite pacific ; their visit was returned by an 
 inspection of tlnnr tents, which gave them great 
 dehght ; dancing and drumming were practised as 
 usual, and they were made (piite happy by tht^ dis- 
 tribution of presents, the scene ending with a scramble, 
 which w'as highly diverting. Towards night the floe 
 began to bioak up and drift away; the channel, to 
 our joy, clearing fast. 
 
 The boonung of a distant camion announcing the 
 approach of a vessel from the southward, xMr. I'ullen 
 started to mt'ct her, and soon after we saw the spai's 
 of the " !Saucy " peeping over the southern [)oint. 
 
 During Ihe absence of our commander 1 went on 
 diore i,(» examine the sea to the eastward In Elson 
 
 5 1> ! 
 
t 
 
 NATIVK BUHYINO-(;iU)UNU 
 
 221 
 
 'i 
 
 I 
 
 Bay there was iniich ])ack, an occiisional piece of 
 sailing ire might be seen, as also the barrier to seaward, 
 but otherwise all was free. Several small inlets were 
 visible along the point, and one or two lagoons. In 
 my w.uk T eamc upon a sort of buryin^-ground ; 
 numerous heaps and sods of earth lay about with a 
 stick or two placed ni them. I counted six human 
 skulls upon them, but saw no other bones, and from 
 the smallness of the mounds and undisturbed appear- 
 ance of the surrounding soil, conjectured that the 
 corpses had been buried in an upright jwsition, with 
 their heads at or above the surface. The Esijuimaux 
 did not offer me the slightest molestation, and after 
 gathering a few plants and flowers, and pickmg up a 
 piece of coal, which was prob.ably sea-borne from Ca})e 
 Beaufort, where it exists in plenty, I returned to the 
 boats. 
 
 At four on the morning of the :2nd. Mr. PuUen 
 cajne on board accompanied by Mr. Shedden, wlioso 
 vessel had bee .\e surroumicd by the pack. The 
 channel had cleared for us beautifully, the wind was 
 alike fsivouruble, having veered to the soiuhward, and 
 we vvtue therefore happy enough to hurry on to the 
 iiortlKi-rn extreme of Point Barrow, which is also the 
 honhenmiost point ol' America, llei'c wc anchored 
 For (vsaniination and observjition. and Mr. I'ullen and 
 
 rl. 
 
222 
 
 LANGUAGE Ol' SIGNS. 
 
 r 
 
 myself started in searcli of any marks which might 
 have been left by the " Blossom's " boat. We pulled 
 to tlie sonthward, and landed to examine a 'urge ])ost, 
 whicii we had l)efore observed. Tt was, however, oiilv 
 a piece of driftwood, set up by the natives, many 
 similar to it being about, generally upright. These, 
 as 1 understood irou) the Esquimaux, were used as 
 hmd-nmrks for their fishing boats. 1 bclie\e, indeed, 
 that the " Blossom's " boat did not land hei-e, nor 
 leave any mark of their \isit. There was eertanily 
 none such to be seen. We eai'(^fully examined every 
 sus])ieious ol.ijeet, and dug under several of the posts 
 to a considerable depfli. 
 
 Our interpreter did not understand the ti'ibe, aiu! 
 again recourse was had to the universal language ol' 
 signs. We made a rude model of a vessel, and 
 performed sundry antics to signify wUni \\e weie in 
 search of, but could elicit no information, and ^o s( t 
 to work at obtaining observations. Wv concluded that 
 these people must have l)een entirely misiuiderstood. 
 Far from evidencing any disposition to assail or molest 
 us, they were most docile and well-behaved, agi'ceahly 
 disappointing us in their conduct. When we arj-ived 
 on the hillock, all big and little, sat down around n^. 
 and I umiis((l myself by filling tlitir pipes, becoiimig 
 a great favomite nnincdiately in ionse(|uence 
 
MACJNRTIC OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 2;i:i 
 
 .;) 
 
 (' in 
 I) set 
 lat 
 (ood. 
 lolcsl 
 •iihly 
 ri\t;(i 
 
 111 UN. 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 They had uiiiGiif; tliein a groat many kniv(3s, wjiirli 
 we feared would iufiucnce l\w ina<j;iid., Mr. ?n\k\\ 
 therefore kindly drew the (-rowd off to ;• distance, 
 distributing among them tobaeco, beads, simff, &c. -. 
 aiul luueh to tiieir e red it be it ..id, the; re was neitlier 
 eonfusio)) nor contention, each taking his allotted 
 portion, aiul seeming deUglited with his good fortune. 
 Thev took rare not to eoiue near tiu' mstrnmenta. 
 tindnig that we did not hke their approach , one or 
 TWO iiuh'ed eame towards us, V)iit r<'(ir(?d instantly 
 when laughingly moticmed l)aek, and this slu.uld be 
 considered as a display of great forbearance, iiiasmue.h 
 as their curiosity must have been highlv excited. 
 When the observations were conchided they were 
 allowed to ins))ect the objects uf tlicu' wonder ; then 
 fast and thickly to utterance Hew their expressions of 
 astonishment at the — to them — novel and splendid 
 instruments. The trough of (pucksilver, lii[ui(l and 
 restles.^. especially attracted them, ])lcasure and woiuler 
 were e^ ident at the simple view, but \^ill•n one or two 
 had permission to take some from the disli, and found 
 u ever elude the grasp, their astonishment knew no 
 bounds. 
 
 'Hie men generally were taller tlian the aveiage of 
 Europeans, strongly built and well formeil : some had 
 well-marked features, but all expression was ctunpletely 
 
 I, 
 
Ui> 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF NATIVES. 
 
 V i 
 
 (lesti'oytul by tliose odious labrets, of whicli some wore 
 but one, others one on each side of the month ; th(>v 
 were of beafls or stone, and it is incomprehensible how 
 thciie people can consent to make unsightly gashes in 
 their faces for such a ])urpose. 1 estimate them to bo 
 of great strength and activity, indeed of the latter 
 sufficient j)roof was afforded. The women wcmc 
 generally short, the visages of the younger ones 
 tolerably good, bnt trnth compels me to add, that the 
 very reverse was the case with the dames of more 
 advanc(Hl age. Their figures indincid to the squat, 
 their mien and expression promised nitelligence and 
 good nature. Although both sexes had in most 
 instances the round flat face of the Montrolian cast, a 
 few individuals possessed well-defined, thongh petite 
 fcfitures, and all h;id tine eyes. The women, unlike 
 oiu' ladv friends on the Asiatic coast, wore closely 
 rtttinK breeches of sealskin, and as these alvvavs looked 
 old and worn, 1 have little doubt that thev were the 
 castings of Their husbands' wardrobes ; their figures 
 were, thtsrcfore. not displayed to advantage, particulai'y 
 as they turned in their toes and walked with a wjuldle. 
 All were horribly filthy in person and habits , a 
 perceptible odour of train-oil pervaded tiie asst*rnblv, 
 and efl'ectually banished on our side any lingering 
 j)enchant for their caresses, which were liowever fnH'l\ 
 
 
 
TOILKT OF TI'E NATIVKS. 
 
 225 
 
 ; (11 ul 
 most 
 
 last, a 
 K'titc 
 nilikc 
 osely 
 keel 
 tlm 
 inures 
 uluvlv 
 
 uldlo. 
 s . a 
 inblv, 
 
 tVct'lv 
 
 1 
 
 feiidered, particularly the noso-riihhing saliitntion 
 wliich w'v liacJ some difficulty to avoid without otfciiding. 
 The men only appear to wear the lahret, ami where a 
 single one is borne it is generally on tile left side of 
 the mouth. I observed soukj >uen with bare crowns 
 in priestly fashion, but the major part left the hair 
 untouched ; the reason for the practice of cli})j)ing 
 may be better guessed than alluded to. I saw no 
 tattooed marks on the men: in the women all discernible 
 were lines, generally -n pair's, drawn from the lower 
 lip to the chin ; they were of a dark hue and dee[)ly 
 punctured; indeed, in some instances the flesh had risen 
 up in ridges, The women's hair was cut in frf)nt 
 level with the eyebrow s ; behind, it grew long, and was 
 gathered into tw^o " rat tails," such as young ladies 
 sometimes w^ear in England, but l)eing very thick and 
 bound tightly round with strips of stiff hide, they 
 stuck out on each side like small cable ends, which 
 indeed they much resembled. Having concluded the 
 obsei'vations, and erected a pole on the spot where they 
 were taken, we went off to the boats to dine. 'J'he 
 Escpiimaux assembled on th(! beacii ojijjosite to us, 
 and onmiencpd a festival concert, smging, dancing, 
 and gesticulating, to the sound of two large native 
 drums or tambourines, verv like those of the Tuski : 
 the burthen of their song was ever — Hi, Yangah 
 
220 
 
 \VK nUHY INTELLKJENCE. 
 
 yangah ; lui lui, yaiif^uli : with variety only iii the 
 inflection of voice. 
 
 We ])ui'chase(l an oomiak — woman's, or family boal 
 — made of two walrus skins, sewn togetlier, and 
 stretched tightly over a light wooden frame: with 
 paddles complete its price was a large butcher's 
 knife, a looking-glass, and a (]uantity of tobacco and 
 beads. She differed much in shape from thosij of the 
 Tuski, which are little wider at top than bottom ; this 
 one measm-ed seventecni inches at the gi-eatest breadlli 
 of floor, and forty-three where widest between tlic 
 gunwales ; a species of keel was formed by carrying 
 the woodwork to an edge below. Workmanship M'as 
 displayed in the manufacture of her frame which 
 would not have disgraced a skilful carj)enter ; it was 
 particularly neat and well litted, which made it luiich 
 stronger than its lightness would lead one; to sup])t)sc. 
 
 In the afternoon we went on shore to bniy nn 
 account of our past and intended future proceedings ; 
 these wen; placed near the pcjle, which was about 
 twenty feet long, with a cross-piece near the top, on 
 which was inscribed — 
 
 n.oVKlfS BOATS 
 
 AUGUST :?, 1849 
 
 IN'TKI.I.KJKNCK. Id FKKT, N K 
 
 i\lr. Sheddeis siu'prised us at this tnue by appeaniig 
 
NATIVK WINTKK DW i;|,J,I N(iS. 
 
 '29.1 
 
 on the liill near, wishing to taken last look ot' iis, niid 
 learn if we wanted ajiy I'nrtber assist iin('(^ ; foi- the^e 
 ]mrposes he had walked a e()nsi(U'ru!)le di.«!tnnee from 
 his Acssel, whteli wjis still iccilorkcd fii the evening 
 I went on shore to obtain sonn' rojn' of seal or walrns 
 hide, whieh I knew would he valuable for to\vini> the 
 boats. I was perfeetly inianned and had some distanre 
 to walk to the village, l»ut met only with the most 
 friendly demonsti-ations. 1 took a good visual survey 
 of the plaee, whieh a])peared to be n eonsiderable nnd 
 important settlement. The winter dwellings w^ere 
 about thirty in number, and appai'<mtly partly made 
 by e.\cnvation in the soil, some sijiian or oblong in 
 shape with flattish roofs, others round and arehed ; 
 they averaged about five feet from the ground I eould 
 not help thinking that these nuist be v\ hat Simjison in 
 his narrative mistook for " numerous mounds of earth, 
 forced up by the pressure of the kv, whieh look, at a 
 distance, like gigantic boulders." They have nmch 
 of that appearance, and I coincided vvith his belief, 
 until 1 had a tolerably near mspecticm, which made 
 me j)retty contident that such mounds do not exist, 
 and these dwellings seem too far tiistant from the sea to 
 be in danger from ice. The summer tents ^vere about 
 as nutnerous as the huts, and pitched near and [d)out 
 them either singly i)r in small clusters ; they were 
 
228 
 
 Wll \r,K,-UlllS (>V POINT HARKOW. 
 
 M 
 
 ■' J 
 
 I 
 
 ■k i. 
 
 \ i 
 
 of seal-Hkiii, sewn togothtr, witli tlio luiir outwards, 
 lu'll-slmped, and siipporUid !)y pok;8 Ono, wliicli I 
 entered, was entirtily destitute of any kind of furni- 
 ture ; its inmates sat on the k)Ose earth, but had of 
 (rourse skins to sk'ep on. 
 
 The most re,rnarkal)k' necidiarity of Point IJnrrow 
 IS the numerous poles and ribs of wliah^s whieli aic 
 ere(tted <.m it, a])out the setthinient. 1 trit^d to 
 eount tlieni, but beeame utterly eonfused in the 
 ealcukitioii before njaeliing Ji tithe of the nund)er 
 I should thuik there must be upwards of a thousand 
 Some were plaecnl so as to form a sort of sealfold, 
 others in rows, ami a few isolated , their use vvmn 
 evident, althouiih I faneied there were inlinitely 
 more tlian reouired. On those arranged tos^ethci 
 were j)ku'ed oomiaks and kiaks (tla^ lattc^r very like 
 our Munnies," or wager boats, but of hide, and 
 covered all over with a hooped aperture for the single 
 oecupant), skins, dresses, entrails of whales and 
 seals, &e,, and between the solitary ribs were stretched 
 ({uantities of hide roj)e in different stages of curing, 
 I imagined that each member of the community had 
 h's own f)rivate lot or manufactory, for on signifying 
 my desire to bt>come a piircliaser, I was seized by 
 one of the merchants and conducted right through 
 the village to its outskirts, where his j)ropertv mid 
 
KSlil IMAl X MASK 
 
 229 
 
 lilvr 
 iiiul 
 
 had 
 
 1 by 
 
 iiiid 
 
 wiiittT dwelling wurt; situati'd, his summer tent bein^^ 
 more eentridly' deposite*!. 
 
 The soil is peaty and l)o«(gy in some parts, marshy 
 ill others, and nil was now saturated with moisture ; 
 the beaeh was sh(?lviiig, eomposed of sand ami shmgle; 
 few shells were to be found, and tliose all scraps and 
 fiagments. 
 
 In addition to tlie hide rope, 1 [)urchas»'d a wooden 
 mask, which was a ludierous imitation of the 
 ' human i'aee divine," in the bisunimaux variety. 
 During the day we had bartered for many other 
 curious trifles, skin dresses of all kiutls, from the 
 nicely trimmed frock of fawn to h^ss inviting breeks 
 of seal-skin, iabrets and other oriu nieiits, bones and 
 sucli like of walrus ivory. 
 
 At nearly midnight on the 3rd, our kind friend 
 Shedden bade us adieu, as we started from Point 
 Barrow. We gave him three iiearty cheers, and 
 parted with feelings of regi*ct, which wonld have been 
 much increased had we known that this was our last 
 farewell. This generous man, vho with no])le self- 
 disregard had adventured thus far into these dreary 
 regions to seek the gallant Franklin and his band, 
 with no otluM' ho])e of rcnvard than the a|,])roval of 
 his own conscience, and who, tinding thai he could 
 not expeet to proceed much further, placed all lus 
 
230 
 
 VAT I', <)l' SHED DEN. 
 
 [ i^: 
 
 I ■ 
 
 \ 
 J. 
 
 iiK-ans ut our disposal, for, as \w tolii mo, " lu; would 
 tako his mainnuist out if it would do us auy «^'ood ;" 
 tliis noble fellow, Jifter striving for awhile longer 
 amid great ditlieultii's, perished hel'ure lu »'onld 
 teturn to his native land. We niourn for thee, gallaiil 
 SI'.edden, as nu'n sh nUd mourn for a true juitriol ' 
 
 
i 
 
 CIIAPTKll W 
 
 Take to Wliiilo lioiit'* iiikI Ooijiiiik. llotiiin of Mr. Martin luul liunoi UohI^ 
 to tlio Ship. — Don ."HcilgeM. - Smith's Pay. Hoiiv> Se, . — Hiiu for 
 Slioii'. — Ko[)Jiir lUiinrtgiitJ.— Hii'.Ih iti liuailjeiB — Colvillo .'.honls. - 
 Critical position. Throw over Provisioii.s. — I'oiiit Rerens. —Amber. — 
 Shovel Jiu-k.- .A-ttitiiflu of Niitive.s. Mirage, .loius's l.^linclh. - Esqui- 
 ihaii.N Chief firoH a MuHkct.- Xaiivt; Hoatn tM-owd n.s. I'oiiit Bt <.'fli(jy. 
 — Visitod by K.i(|uiinaux. -i'mfltiiitiH) rri'pmatioiis.— Shovel .fack 
 iiK-iii''— 'f''"*'!'*'^'*""""" vleiuonwtrntions.-Iii'i'iiii.iirk Niitives follow 
 —Return Reof. — Firo with ijill. (Sni^trui;t Stinkad.-. ■ Murine 
 chui'ges with IJayimet.- -(.'loso of tho threo day.' di-riioiLHtratious.-- 
 NativBS dejiart Broakfast on tho U:o. Nafivoa ioappi>nr.~ Uischargo 
 th'»ir AnowM. - ■HeiuHiiia for l'orboiirua<;i'. 
 
 We ran on until the nftcnioon of tli(> -Wd, wlieii 
 wo stopped near Fatigue Poijit, in liititudc 71 ()' N., 
 I()nj>;itiide -Z-^iV -H' VV., and u^inlc itrcparations to 
 divide the party, Mr. Pulleii havuig detinitively 
 (•(UU'luded to [jroeeinl with the whale liunl.s a"d 
 ooiniak, and send the two \iu-^^c ones Iniek. lie 
 nanx'd one of our little craft " Louisa;" 1 had the 
 iiuich esteenuid privilege of bestowing un the other 
 the title of " Logan," and the skin canoe was aptly 
 christened " Supj>ly." She relieved the other l>oats 
 nnu'h stowing a large quantity l»oilt in weight and 
 
 1 
 
i 
 
 i • 
 
 iiH 
 
 HOAI' KXI'KDITION 
 
 Imlk, twenty cnscsor pcinink'an, oi^ht liimtlnil pduiids 
 i>t' lusciiil, II (|i.iinitil} of pi't-'.-nTMil Tiuats, and oilur 
 inisccllancdiis niatU'Ts, I lit' vvliolt' amount iiijj; to 
 U[)\var(ls (»(' liali' a tun wt'iglit, wiili wliicli Wv trun- 
 \\nU'< \y*'\v still riglit inches* above the water. 
 Twelve nun were selected to aeeoinpany Mr. I'nilen 
 and niyselt, and it may well be imagined tliat four- 
 teen men with tluir arms. luigguL^e — the latt<'r need 
 jiol he too highly estimated — instrnna'nts, and 
 provisions tor nearly a Inuulred ihiys, were not a 
 light lading for our tiny vessels, \m- were iiuh-ed 
 very " dee[».' but consoled oiir.M'lves with the 
 retlection that each day wTaild duunuHh the weight 
 
 At midnight of the 4th, the word to di'jiart u.is 
 given, the chosen ])arty hade farewell to their less 
 
 tortmaitc comrades, and our adieux \yv\v made with 
 mutual regret. My dear friend Mr. Martm we 
 particularly >iym[)athised with : he had s(» nmch 
 hojX'd to have pushed on, and was greatly chagrined 
 at the <li.sa|)poiiitnient As we ran along the shore, 
 great (piantities of <lrift-wood were observable, and 
 on a point above high-water mark were several 
 cluinsy dog->ledges of the EscpnmaiiN, some [lerfed 
 others mucli miiired , they had apparently been hit 
 
 ,h( 
 
 en^ l)y Iravi'lhng parties in thi spring when the 
 «now had become loo soft to employ them, and 
 
 i ■ ■> ■ 
 
TIIK " NlJFl']*^ IN IJANC.I.U. 
 
 I'M 
 
 4 
 
 would |)roltiil»l) hv rtrlaimod for i^cxt uiutii's use. 
 A roiigli hut of drift wood Imd als(» lucn thrown up 
 mar. 
 
 (jietting into Smith's liny, we found liic water very 
 sliallow, and the beach imuhly ; and after tracking 
 for a time with difficulty, started to go right a(;ross 
 the hay. Tlie huukvS here were of solid ico, ten or 
 tifteeu feet liigh, with a crust, of decayed vcgitai)lc 
 uuitter, changed ])el()W into tine lilack mould We 
 had not gone far in our run, wlien the wiuil, 
 previously strong, increased greatly : the si>a becanu' 
 hoislcrous, and our hoatb shippi * nuuli water ; the 
 " Supply," ii» |)articular, heiu;; witliui an ace of 
 sinking. Part of her la-ie;;!; was trau - rrcd to the 
 otlier boats; but they could ill lu-ar the additio'ial 
 weight ; and to prcvi'ut more disastrous conse- 
 (piences, we were obliged to run lor the slu re. 
 landing in a horrid nuxture of black stuH', mto which 
 we sunk to the knees, the surf breaking over the 
 boats. With nuich hd)our they were cleared of 
 their contents, and hauled up, but not before every- 
 thing, inchu'.'iq ourselves, vva> well drenched. 
 Particularly cold and miserable we were ; for, in the 
 lirst placCi then' was grt;at ditliculty in pitching the 
 tents, as the pegs, when through the spongy surface, 
 vvliich was not more than four or live- mclu"^ deep. 
 
2:iJ. 
 
 KVI'KIUKNTS >,N A PREDK'AMKNT. 
 
 ! t 
 
 ■ i 
 
 f 
 
 I 
 
 icfiisof] to cntor the icy tbundatioii , next, the fire- 
 wood being wet and rotten, would not he j.ersuuded 
 to burn for a long time ; and jstly, our very scanty 
 wardrobes being as Avell soaked as the clotlies we liad 
 on, recjuired a Httle draining before we could enjoy 
 the luxury of a change. Next dav all our attention 
 was required in repairing, as far as |iossible, the 
 evils of the preceding. Nearly all oui" biscuit was in 
 a pap-like state of saturation, and we constructed u 
 rude oven with anchors, rods, and plates of tin from 
 tl)(; preserved potato-cases, in which to dry it , but 
 this expedient was only very partially successful ; tlic 
 effects of the salt water were not easily removed ; 
 and our bakery, it must be confessed, was not of th(^ 
 most artistic description. Our camp j)resented a 
 strange spcctacli; : the tents all askew, near them 
 a large j)ile of rotten wood, intended for a fire, l)nt 
 boasting more of pungent smoke ; on one side the 
 primitive ov(?n ; around, preserved meat-tins, piled 
 like shot , casks, oars, masts, juid other gear ; and 
 suspended upon lines, dripping habiliments waved in 
 the breeze. Crownuig all, were the fantastic garbs 
 of the party; some had donned Es(|ninjaux frocks, 
 breeches or caj)S , the rest of their dress being of 
 a more civilised cast , others, with some misappro- 
 priated garmeiU thrown loosely iver them, were 
 
MLLTITDUKS OK 'UKOs, 
 
 liu 
 
 rcc 
 
 iI}U"l)lS 
 
 riX'Ks, 
 
 liir <>i 
 
 IM 
 
 )ro- 
 
 awaiting, iu patience, until the sulky lij-t- should di-y 
 their clothes ; and one or two, of nn 
 
 tin 
 
 were 
 
 an nigenious turn, 
 assumed the position of a roast, revolving slowly 
 Ijefore the logs ; they certainly got well smoked, if 
 heat were wanting. \Vt^ could not afford to spend 
 more time in repairing our losses, and resumed the 
 \oyage on the 7th, at noon. There was a good deal 
 of " sailing" iee in our eoursi', and we got one or 
 two lu:"d rubs in eonse(juenoe. I(;e which has mu'^'h 
 wasted is very deceptive; ; long tongues run out 
 under the water, and art- dangerous, because unseen. 
 Near Point Pitt were seven Es(|aimaux tents, and 
 wc landed, to conmiunicate with the nniiates, but 
 gamed no intelligence . they (!ould hardly have ever 
 si'cui whites before, as more tluui common astonish- 
 ment was displayed at sight of us. We obtained 
 some fish from them, and experienced great annoy- 
 ance from the oft-repeated salutation of uose- 
 iiibbing, which made us glad enough to depart. 
 The shores h(;re were low. the groiuul chiefly flat 
 and swampy. Ducks, geese, and gidls, were 
 observed in gn-at i.!nid)ers, and multitudes of small 
 birds kept up a coutiiuud twitter. Landing to 
 rxamiiie a \erv small .sandv island near Point 
 I'lllice, v/e were joined by two oonuaks, and recog- 
 nised m their crens some of the persons we had 
 
aac 
 
 BOATS ,\(aU)UND. 
 
 i 
 
 lately left. Endeavours were uiade to purchase one 
 of their boats, but without success. Near Poiut 
 Camerou, where we eucamped at night, thousands 
 of loons and diving-ducks were assembled, but were 
 very shy ; and an enormous white owl, whicii I 
 eu(l(!avoured to get a shot at, was far too Mary \m my 
 success. The best way to catch these birds is to 
 trail souie suiall object like a mouse at a loug distance 
 behind by a string. Lauding ou Cape Malkctt on 
 the morning of the 9th, it was resolved, as the day 
 was calm, to push for the opposite ])oiut of Harrison's 
 Bay, and avc started accoi'dingly. We had inucli 
 difliculty in tlm.'ading onr v/ay through the fllouting 
 and grounded ice, but were assisted in our ad\ unc» 
 by a strong easterly current J^ate in the aft(>rnoon 
 a brei'ze came up from tht; south-west, to whieli we 
 hoisted sail. Wind and sea gradually increased to 
 violence; the boats grounded on shoals at the nmuth 
 of the Colville River, and were with dilllcidty got 
 into deeper water, where their condition was eijually 
 unfortunate : tlie poor little craft were in great 
 danger of swamping, being too deeply laden to 'ise 
 with sufficient buovancv to the waves Much wvter 
 was shipped, particularly by the "Snpj)ly," which being 
 in tow embarrassed us considerably Our sitiiatioti 
 became critical and the boats were of necessitv 
 
SACRIFTrF. <)1" l'K()\ ISIONS. 
 
 •2,37 
 
 irot 
 
 rise 
 witcr 
 
 atioTi 
 •ssitv 
 
 lightent*(l by throwing ovorlxuird sonic of the pro- 
 visions , this ndioved tlieni ; and the beach near 
 Point Berens was reached with great satisfaction soon 
 after, when the work of cleaving tiie boats had to ])e 
 repeated, everything being again quite saturated. 
 The " Supply " wus much injured, and we liad 
 thrown oveiboard about tlnee luuidred pounds of 
 biscnit, and nearly two hundred poiuids of preserved 
 [)otatoes, all of which had been vvetU'd on the 
 foi njer occasion ; a ten gallon cask of water iiiid 
 also heen sacrificcnl. VVjdking along tlie beach, I 
 picked up a i)iece of amber, which, although very 
 small, was treasured a^ a curiosity from being found 
 here On the 11th, having somewhat jefitted, we 
 pulled up to Pouit Berens, on which were thirteen 
 ten'.s, containing, as 1 calculated, about one hundred 
 persons hi all. Pennnican was to be deposited 
 here, and a pole with four arms, which our car- 
 pi'uter had already prepared, was erected. To conceal 
 our doings, a visit was made to the tents, which lay 
 at a distance ; and the attention of tht; natives beins: 
 thus diverted, three cases and a bottle of intellig(MU'e 
 were buried, we ho[)ed, without observation, and fires 
 made at difl'erent places around, to mislead as to the 
 position of the depot. Our arrangements concluded, 
 we were pre])aring to depart, when the shovel was 
 
 I ' , ! 
 
238 
 
 hKTKUM INKl) MKASli:<KS. 
 
 I 
 
 missed; a native gciitloinan liad cleverly sluiUled it m 
 an instant under the sand v itli liiR feet ; and liad Ik^ not 
 been by chance observed, would undoubtedly have 
 appropriated it as a waif. We c >nld not spare th • 
 implement, so dislodged the thiel from his position 
 over it, and recovered the article ; but our friend was 
 ii;>t satisfied with his de|)m'ation, and seized the 
 prow of the boat to prevent our departure, while his 
 companions seemed nuich inclined to make a rush 
 upon us. One nuist be ever watchful and prompt m 
 conmnmication witli uncivilised ])eople : a couple ol 
 guns Avere levelled at the man in an instant, and their 
 aspect (piickly changed his views ; he let go of the 
 boat an<i retreat(^d hastily, We hoisted sail and ran 
 along shore, until a mark was observed, which \vv 
 landed to examine, antl while so engaged, wnv 
 visited by an oomiak, containing twenty-four men, 
 and only one woman. As they came from Point 
 Bercns we distrusted their honesty, and a line was 
 therefore drawn on the sand between the parties, as 
 a Rubicon to tach. 
 
 A curious instance of the deceptive vi^vd of nnrag<' 
 occurred to-day we thought we saw a small vesst^l 
 or boat ruiuiing in for the laiul, and chased it for ji 
 time, but after all, found it to be onl> a mass of ice, 
 and continued our wav with considei'abh* vexation 
 
 .1 
 
1^1 
 
 A (iRKAT A« HIKVKMl'NT. 
 
 2.*i9 
 
 I we 
 Wdl'O 
 
 men, 
 Point 
 was 
 
 U'S, MS 
 
 vessel 
 lor ii 
 )1' ice, 
 at ion 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 1 
 
 ' 
 
 i i 
 
 The oomiak followed us for some time at w distiiuce, 
 but wo lost sight of ii before linidmi;' ou the enstiirn- 
 most of Joues's Islands, Aviirre we supped, and I he 
 num lay down for a time, as we intended to p- u'ced 
 dnring the night. A part) of nativ(!s visited us hen; ; 
 tlu^y seemed very friendly, and pleased to see us 
 Among them was a tall spare man, who, l)y his 
 usurping the prin(;Ji)a] share in the conversation, and 
 t)ther tokens, appeai'ed t,{) be a ehief. He had a long 
 gun, of I'higlish manidaeture -. the name on th(- loek 
 was Barnet : it was very shaky ; but, notvvitlistnud- 
 ing, evidently highly prized* He obtained a little 
 powder upon solicitation, and a few presents, of 
 which taw'aeah (tobacco) was most vvelconu:;, were as 
 usual distributed to the r(;st of the party. ITe was 
 permitted to fire one of the fowling-pieces, for we 
 w-anted to see how far his knowledge of the use of 
 firearms extended ; and hi? proceeding caused much 
 anmsenuint : he kneeled down in the sand, shut his 
 eyes, and compressed his lips firndy ; and after a 
 slight pause, during which he was doubtless resolving 
 upon the performance of the great ac^hievemeut, 
 pulled tlu; trigger, and receiv(xl a smart tap, having 
 held the gun loosely fron» the shoulder. Mightily 
 
 " Wo h:ivo Biuce been informecl tluit Uiia gui> wass lust from Sir U. Rack's 
 boats in 182t}. 
 
210 
 
 l'OLI,()\Vi;i) IJY OO.MIAKS. 
 
 was lie relieved when the exploit was eoiieiuded, and 
 with his coiiipaiiiniis, breathed tVeely once iiiore ; tor 
 they, like liini, had been ni all-eiig:rossiiig suspense 
 until the deed was done Our nsiial einleavours to 
 obtain uitelligenee were eniploved , a "ude model of 
 a vessel again coustruebid, \.'d A\ith "t'l.u* signs put 
 in requisition; bur thesn ett'of(3 wv.ic usi'. wardetl ])y 
 snecess. This oer!i])ati(.)i was int(U'rupted by tiie 
 apps'oach nf n. number more of the natives, Avhieh 
 warned us that our positiim on this narrow stiij) of 
 sand was easdy assai^ibie, i!i ca; of treachery. VVe 
 re-embarked, therefore, at tht.ty nunutos past eleven, 
 I'M., and pulled to rh,e eastwaril, for the wind had 
 disaj)pointed oui' e\pectations, and instead of 
 becoming fair, threatened to blow strongly from 
 the north-cast. VVe .-^iiecdilv observed four lar^e 
 oomiaks, filled with natives, who had a])})aiently 
 come from two goodly lollections of tents, one on 
 the point of the nminland abreast of us, the other, 
 nnd larger, a litth' to the eastward. Tlu^ live oomiaks 
 crowded upon us nuich nearer than was agre(?able, 
 for they contamed (piite five times our nundier. 
 Mr. Pullen counted twenty-one men and two wonu-n 
 in on(!, and {>stimated that none of the rest licld Irss 
 than sixteen persons. Our three boats were kej)t 
 close together, and the advances of the strangers 
 
 i I 
 
 -' r. 
 
 
VISIT V\U)M KSC^I ni \| \, 
 
 211 
 
 liirgc 
 
 IfSS 
 
 Ko|.l 
 
 iiovrs 
 
 disconmged . they did not, si-om to roiDpivheiid nor 
 to rclisli our reserve. Wlicii tlicv t'oiuid that wo 
 would not stop for tlicni. nor accept their very 
 pressing invitations to land at the iaiger encampment, 
 on passing it. they gave nj) convoying iis, and 
 returned to tlieir tents, it l)eing now long past mid- 
 night. The wiinl had, as we feari'd, increased 
 greatly, raising the sea also ; and m) little progi-ess 
 was made, that the ])0[»ts' heads were turned to shore;, 
 and W'c landed at nearly thi-ee, am., on the 12th, 
 n(.'ar Point Heeeliy. Half of the jiai'ty lay down to 
 slecj); the rest re-loaded the tire-arms, which had 
 nearly all beeome w(!tt<Hl from the (piatitity of water 
 shipped , for it must he J'ememljered that onr boats 
 were so yui.iil, and moreover, so heavily laden, that 
 they were quite nnprotected from the most tiiflijig 
 sea 01- spray, and wen; unsaA; in a breeze. \\v. had 
 not been here long when a large nund)er of the 
 natives came along the bank from tluir camp, which was 
 about two nnle^i distant from our |)osition. Although 
 they liad apparently no weapons, we thought it 
 necessary to be on onr guard, and as on a former 
 occasion, drew a line along the sand, across vvliich 
 they w'vrr not pei'mitted to ])ass. We were, indeed, 
 soon rendered still more cautious by observing among 
 the crowd the man wlio liad given lis some trouble at 
 
Ui 
 
 SHOVEL JACK. 
 
 , «- 
 
 Ji 
 
 Point Berens, and whom, in reference to tlic oljjoet 
 of liis desire on tlmt oeeasion, our men had ciuMh^tcned 
 " Sliovel .)aek." ll(! evidently wislied to remain 
 incognito, sitting very quietly among a group of men, 
 and being disguised by a pair of snow speetaeleis, 
 whieli were mach) of wood, ami had a narrow slit 
 hMigthwise for vision. But we recognised iiim, not- 
 withstanding, and suspected mischief accordingly 
 Foremost in the crowd was the tall man wlio visited 
 us on the preceding night : his gun, which his wile 
 now carried, was the only weapon visible. For a time 
 the natives rtvinaincd quiet, and seated themselves 
 contentedly aroutul ; but the tall man at last became 
 impatient of the restraint nnj)os(!d l)y us, and crossed 
 the boundary line ; he was speedily re-conducted to 
 his own side of the border with the nu>st scrupu- 
 lous politeness, which was unfortunately not 
 sufficiently appreciated by the native noble ; he 
 re-crossed the line, and commenced to importune 
 for powder. A little tobacco was given to him, but, 
 this was not satisfactory, and lie walked off a\ ith a 
 number of his men, ap])arently in dudgeon, I thought 
 for good, but, as we soon found, for no good. A 
 preconcerted scheme became immediately manifest ; 
 in a few seconds they were armed with bows and 
 arrows, which they had liidden near, and advanced 
 
TIIRKATEMNO ASIM'CT o| \VTIVKS 
 
 iV.i 
 
 (M 
 
 1 K 
 
 .'VU1)U- 
 
 not 
 
 , he 
 
 i-tune 
 
 hilt, 
 
 wit) I n 
 
 umglit 
 
 il. A 
 
 nift'st ; 
 
 Ivs and 
 
 lVaiKH!( 
 
 upon lis. the rest of the l'lsi|niniaii\ iI<»hi<j: ilu- sjsmc. 
 Tlu' seem; was now Ix'coMiiunr sliolnlv rxcitm^;, aiitl 
 preparations were inslitntcd tor (mr depart are, Init 
 with HP. little appearance of liun y as possil)lt!. When 
 all was really, we retired slowly to the bunts, and 
 ejubarking, puslu^d off as (iniekly as miglit he. We 
 were V(Ty nearly exehanging missiles, liowever ; for 
 instantly that we (patted the heaeli the Ksquiinanv 
 mounted on the bank above and prepariwl to shoot ; 
 but as we did likewise, they hesitated |>robal)ly, to 
 reconsider the j)n)priely of an attack. One young 
 man, in j)artieular, lookiMJ very fierce, and with liis 
 bent ])0W and fitted arrow was |ilninly taknig aim at 
 our leader, whose life just tlieii m ould have <'ost a 
 heavy ])reininm for insiinniee . but the and)itions 
 warrior was (juiekly "covered" by five bairels. wbieli 
 cooled his ardour in an lustant, and he dro|)ped d(3wn 
 under shelter of the bank. "Jack of the shovel" 
 was particularly singled out f(»r oiu" of ilie first victims 
 of the expected skirmish : many fingeis itched to 
 draw trigger upon him ; and this is not to be won- 
 dered at, for this man had evidently followed on our 
 trail, and by a description of our liilu-s, and the 
 smallness of our number, incited the rest to attempt 
 to plunder, and |)rol>ably to kill us. 
 
 I counted eighty-four or eighty-tive men on the 
 
 *|. 
 
 ! ! ! 
 
 R 2 
 
 V J 
 
244 
 
 IIOSTILK IH'l'ORTMKN'l OF NM'IVP.S. 
 
 i • 
 
 hnnk ; (lie woiiicii, of ulioiti, imlccd, tlu-rc linil ;u»| 
 IxTii iiwiny piTM'ut. and tlioso j)n)l)a))lv only us a 
 l)lin(l, lad (|iii('kly withdrawn, wlicii niatti-rs liicauM 
 serious. Our ;j!;r«'at ditlicnlly in jjaininti tlio Imats 
 A\as cansi'd l)v tlir slinlli»wiit'ss nl' tht wjitcr, inid we 
 lost our ancliors partly in t'onso((UtMicc of this, as 
 tinn' was not spared to hani n|» to Ihciu. Tlir 
 stronf;- hroo/c still contiiniing, \V( ic^ai'icd the Kitnrii 
 KtH'C, landed, ami Inu'led thrci' r-ises of iK'niniican ; 
 wo had l)arcl\ coneludod, when thrcr l)()ats full ot 
 
 natives having crosst'ii from the \illa^e, hnided aKo 
 about half a mile o^\ and eame down towards n.s 
 ke(|>ing to windward, that their arrows mi^ht tjv 
 truly N^ididnol, however, ^'i\e opportunity lor ii 
 display (•! iheir skill, Inil re-( nd)arked, and pulled 
 awa\ . tirsl lirin^i; a shot over their heads The whisilniu 
 hall made them winee and hesUate a little, hut they 
 became eniholdeued by pereeising that U had done 
 no damaue 
 
 ']'l 
 
 us maudeuvre is perhaps iiioiv in 
 
 lus than benetieial in its ett'eet u))0!i sava^as 
 
 as 
 
 juri( 
 
 they ascribe its harmless result rather to want ot 
 skill or ability tlmii to an intimation of the possession 
 of uieans of aifijressioji or {U'fenci 
 
 Ls soon as we 
 
 had embarked, the Kscpiimaux re<i;ained, and lauiielied 
 
 theii- 
 
 oomiaks 
 
 k; 
 
 w 
 
 ith their litfht boats if was no 
 
 difficult matter to keej) up with oiii deeply-iumuTsed 
 
HOSTILE DKI'OKTMKNT <)l' NATIVES. 
 
 UO 
 
 inift, and tlicy Iiiir.fr iipdii our skirls, jilwnys krcpinjj; 
 l(» vviiidujinl, and srrkiiij; a cliain't' to attack. 
 
 An hour's severe labour showed the \aiiity of coii- 
 lendiuj? apiiiist a sfj-onn; l>re(>zc, hi'a\} sea, and loose 
 paek, and the resohitioi, was ina<hi to rt'tni'ii to the 
 Keel"; and shouhl thi' Ks(|i(imiMi\ persist in inolosting 
 us. no longer to uithohl tlieir chastismn'iil. 'rurning 
 about aeeordingly, uc wimc not long ni reaching the 
 shore, and landing on the seaward .-ide. hauled the 
 l)oat8 up. Quantities ol <lrit't-\vo(»d lay ar.iund ; of 
 this a stockade was '•onstruetcd, Dehind which half 
 the party lay dovvn to .sleep, — for rt'|)o.se was sadly 
 iu'«'de(l — the remainder being on watch. 'Ihe Ksipii- 
 inau\ landed, also, and threv up a breastwork, at 
 about tive hundred yards tlistance, from' behind 
 which thev inttMitlv wutched our proceed inyrs, but 
 did not dare to advance in fact^ of the fiiv-arnis. 
 'Hiey made treacherous signals of amity, and erected 
 a skin frock on a pole, as !ui invitation lo barter 
 and fraternise, but we were not to be so easily 
 deluded 
 
 By and ))y two natives ventured to apj)roacli, 
 making all sorts of friendly gestures, but timid 
 enough under the mask ; for when about two hundred 
 yards distant, they were sent to the right-about in ,in 
 mstant by Sullock, the sentinel-maiine, who charged 
 
21ft 
 
 THE SIKOE RAISED. 
 
 tln-m with lixcil Imyouct, <« >. 'licy si'mHjxiVil htak in 
 liiisfo to tlu'ir ilcft'iurs Jind coiiipaT.ioiis. 
 
 In four lioiirs tlic l)csi('<jtMs wiuiriod of watchiit^, 
 micl fearing to try our position hy assault, raised I lie 
 l)lockade, and took to their boats, very mneli to our 
 satisfaction. Two oomiaks went over to the villM|i;e 
 opposite, tlie third, winch doid)tless contained tiic 
 redoubtable and never snftieiently t«) b(^ execrated 
 "Shovel Jack," and his associates, pulHn<j: away lo 
 the westward. When pretty well rc^jmsed, Mr. Pulltn 
 and 1 walked down to the spot where the pemniiraii 
 was buried, and found it untouched. As we ne.ired 
 the encampment on return, some of the scaintMi canic 
 running towards us, exchiiming liastily that a sail was 
 in sight, aiul pointujg to seaward, where, mdeed, 
 something much resendjUng a vessel appean'd, and 
 the "Nancy Dawson" was suggested, but a few 
 seconds suiiiced to undeceive us ; th(! object shifted 
 its position, anil presenting a new phase, show(;d us 
 that it was but a tali hummock of ice, of peculiar 
 form. 
 
 The morning of the l:Jth was favoural)le for our 
 d(^parturc from our fortress imobscrved ; a thick haze 
 overspread the «ea, under cover of which, we em- 
 barked at two, A.M., and pulled to windward out to 
 the pack. Passing .M)me very lieavy and extensive 
 
 ' ! ■ 
 
J 
 
 i 
 
 LAND ON UKILKN KKEK. 
 
 217 
 
 I 
 
 4 
 
 i 
 
 floes, wo latKlvil ii|)ori one whicli luy fifrrouiid, tnoorcul 
 t!u! bouts witli tli«' pifkaxf, tlio only siil»stif\if(i lor nu 
 anchor W(^ posscsstd, and look^Ml break last witli 
 spirits ot wine. Well drcnrlicd with M|)ruy, cxposod 
 to tlu! biting blast, with the ti'mpuratiu't; below 
 frci'/iug, and our only t()otin<< ice, it will not be 
 doubted that, as a simple (|mstit»i) ot iiiconvcnueuco, 
 our discoinl'ort this !nornin«j; was ver} great , and, to 
 increase the wretchedness of our londition, a larj^e 
 submerged tongue of ice broke otl" Irom the tloe, and 
 rising up under the ])oats, well-nigh capsi/t;d them, 
 and nuich wetted \is. After driidung our cocoa, 
 which, in our beiuiudjcd state, was perfect nectar, wo 
 embarked the pickaxe and ourselves, and resuintid tho 
 oars, until the wind becanii^ lavourable enough to 
 [KMniit of hoisting sail. Among the pack some largo 
 and high luunmocks were observable ; flie haze 
 renderetl their outlines undetiiUHl, and some curious 
 a[)pearances were presented : one mass, m particular, 
 looked like a huge pile of gothic ai'ehiteeturc. 
 
 Soon after noon we lauded on the Return Kiief, 
 near its eastern extreme, lo tline and dry our clothes; 
 the spray and drizzle havnig drenched all thoroughly. 
 Plenty of driftwooil lay around, and we speedily 
 raised a huge tire, cooked and dispatched diimer, and 
 with reinMgorated spirits, were j)re})aring to proceed, 
 
i 
 
 24S 
 
 ATTACK Ol' liStiUlJVlALX. 
 
 r I 
 
 I I 
 
 i'l; ; ! 
 
 wlien we saw two ooniiaks, coiitainjiig lietween forty 
 and fifty iiicn, ])u]liiig in to the beadi. These landed 
 as we pushed off, and lan along the strund towards 
 our resting-place, preparing their hows as tliey came, 
 and discluo'ging tlieir anows with grent riipidity at 
 the steiMiniost boat •. only one arrow fell uliead of tli(> 
 boat tile rest dropped short, but were Ix-antifully 
 ainuid. We firi'd llie fowhng-])ieces with ball, tirst 
 over, and then at them, foi' the annovancc; had now 
 been so long continued, that we were vexed: but 
 I do not think anv one was hit They cut some 
 ludicrous cai)crs on llic occasion dancing and jump- 
 ing al)out, to divert our aim, and tiropping, like dead 
 men, the instant thev observed the Hash. Ila\inir 
 got beyond the range oi' their arrows, sad was made 
 u]K)n the boats, and we had a fine run until past mid- 
 night, passing Points Chandos and Anxiety, and 
 landing to encamp about two miles to the eastward of 
 Foggy Island, seeing no wv throughout. 
 
 \\C were not agan\ molested l)y the Escpiimaux, 
 and 1 think it bui right to conclude my relation of 
 tlieir hostile pi(»ceedings with two .a three remarks 
 on conduct in coMunumeation witli uneivihsed peopk 
 The reasons lor desiring to avoid collision, and the 
 great foj'bearance displayed on our part during the 
 late attacks, particularly di'serve notice, JSelhim' 
 
 
 
 h 1 
 
>l!^l 
 
 TREATMENT Ol:' NATIVES. 
 
 240 
 
 aside the iitt«;r uselessncss of lisking injury or dcfith 
 to either side, it must be obvious that i\ sanguinary 
 result could only have evcitc'd vindictive feelings, 
 which, hi case any of Franklin's or otiier pnrty should 
 aftii'wards be thrown on the coast, prohably in a 
 reduced condition, avouUI surely find vent in their 
 destruction. But it must, on the otlier hand, be 
 contVssed that the usual moderation of th(^ whit(3s has 
 inspired the Es(iuimau\ with conteiupt for their 
 coin'iij^v, rather than a correct estimation of their 
 motives. It is most unAvise iumecv;ssarily to expose 
 to their view tnnkets and implements, which have in 
 
 tl 
 
 leir t 
 
 ;ye5 
 
 an almost inestiniuble \alue, and cannot 
 
 fail to excite their cupidity, Hnd our posst^ssiohs 
 been more <j:uard(Mlly veiled at I'oint liereus, I feel 
 persuaded we should never have hern ^^ubjected to 
 the late annoyance. Kirnim^ss and uuhiiliug vigilance 
 are indispensable to security : ncv<>r should the 
 slightest Avavering from an original resolution be 
 displayed, uor should distnU'it ever be apparent, 
 though it must also be })articularly noticed that 
 tn^achery lurks in every act of the l''s(|niinaiix, they 
 are not to be confitled in for an instant -, and it should 
 always be iememl>ere(l that the lulage, " too much 
 familiarity breeds contempt," is peculinrlv appropriate 
 as regards communication with unenlighteiii'il tribes. 
 
250 
 
 ESQUIMAUX ENCAMPMENT. 
 
 The more they have reason to respect visible powers, 
 the greater will be the mist of awe thrown aroujid 
 uncomprehenclcd properties. 
 
 We passed a most relVeshing night of rep(^se after 
 the late luirassing jx'riod of two days, and arose 
 reinvigorated for new toil. 
 
 Going in search of water, and to examine a mark 
 on a hillock near, we discovert'd a s})ot where Mscjui- 
 maiix liad lately encamped; the remains of a <^ve and 
 debris of a feast on reindeer and wildtoi .- were 
 visible, and fom- or ti\e very small thret;-leggiul 
 stools, to which we never again saw anything simiinr 
 
 L-^-J^*liSlS^JJ 
 
CHAPrER XVI. 
 
 liion Rfof- -Seals, — Mount.ains — Ducks and Divers.— Daily routitio. — 
 Fhixuiaii's Islaiul. — It>. Large Drij't Wond. — Burj' ['(>mrni( ;ii>. — Dog 
 Seen. — Native Huts. — Presents.- P-tlinographic distinctions. — Euro- 
 jicai) Knife. — Send n\< Rockets. — Nutivii wonder.-— OouiiakH' niimic 
 manoeuvres. — Esquimaux Faniily. — Wliale.? — Hcrscliei Island. — 
 Wind shifts .suddenly. — Diftioulties.— Calton Point. — Es-iu'i'ifi"''- 
 bring Fish. — Tracking. — Paradoxical Uarrovrs. - Land near SaMno 
 Point. —Huts and Women. — Buy a JVoek froin a Lady,- —Thefts.- • 
 Compasses affected. -Appr'iach to Mackenzie. — Tracking up River. — 
 Change in Vegetation. -Bear and Deer Tracks. — Erect a Cross. — 
 Indian visitor.- Peel ilivur. —Mr. Hardisty visit.-; us. - Proceed to Fort 
 M'Pherson. — Changed phase of exi.-itenco. — Departure of Mr, Pullen. 
 — Annual Despatch.— Indian Pami and Decoi-aiion. — l.i)\icheux or 
 Quarrel! ers.-- Rat (ndians. -Qluttony. - Indian Betrothals. — Forty 
 skins lor one. —India -i (arreucy,— E»ciuimans. and Indian I'euds. 
 
 On the Lion Reef, win re we sle])t on tlie ni<i;ht of 
 the Mtli, 11 multitude of ;>ealf* were collected, so 
 j)erfeetly still, tho m the dusk wr; at first mistook 
 them for driftwood , but tlieir tumultuous rush into 
 the water ott our approach, enH<rhtened us as to their 
 vitality. Wf observet! the Ronianzotf Mountains 
 from this place, Avhich is islnnd and reef combined ; 
 they are ap[)a.rently about thu'ty miles from the sea, 
 their spurs extending fiU- into the ptams (uound. 
 A rise and fall of tide amoiinting lo eighteen inches, 
 

 DAILY HODTINK. 
 
 occunid ill the iiiglit, the ('iin'cnt setting stroii-ily lo 
 the westwiird, a\ itii the avukI t'n^sli from north-east ; uiul 
 niiw here reinnrk, " en passant," that owv e\])( riencc 
 
 alonu; tliis coas 
 
 t led 
 
 ns to eonsiih-r the cniTeiils 
 
 as 
 
 nianily <T;overned l)v tht; wind. I do not recolleri ;i 
 single " wrather tide," 
 
 between tins island and the niani land ue ui-ii' 
 nnahle to find a passa<i;e. and were obliged to pass 
 outside, where a good deal of heavy sailing ice was 
 in iii()ti<tn. The nmnber ol' diieks and divingd)inls 
 s(*en for the last (wo or tlnee days trnlv astonished 
 
 lis. 
 
 but t 
 
 lev w» 
 
 IT so wild, *^hat we eoiild kill hut 
 
 few, Immense quantities of driftwood lay along tin 
 
 si 
 
 shores, mueh oi it ol larice si/e, ano nearh a 
 
 vei'v 
 
 straisrht, 
 
 'I'll 
 
 •oa-^l line w hei'e not ver\ 
 
 low, was 
 
 generally eonij.jsed of h;tnks of mud and ice, \\\\\< a 
 snrfaee of ab')at eighteen .iiehes or two feet >A pealy 
 
 4urt' 
 
 elastic and spongy 
 
 The rouime of one day's work on this eoasMiig trip 
 \\as very nmeli a sample of the rest; sonufimes we 
 pulled separateh, i/i in line tacked on to each oilur, 
 
 sai 
 
 l(-d 
 
 when We eon 
 
 Id, of 
 
 eoiirse. never I'l'iiiov muf far 
 
 ti'oiii tlie siiore. ill set 
 
 areely 
 
 aiiv instanee beyond two 
 
 tl 
 
 nr tnree nnles 
 
 and 
 
 landiiiu, '••enerallv 
 
 to tal 
 
 ke meals. 
 
 and as mneh oftener as nnnierous iiiark-s upon ilu: 
 shore called lor exuuiimilion. Tlie most tinial siuns 
 
1 
 
 TLAXMAN S IS[,ANn. 
 
 258 
 
 were smipnloiisly rcgardcfl , and hud nriv strange 
 ])arty hctii o,i tliis cou.-t \v(> fouM not liavc tailed to 
 disf'over tluin Witii riuly one or two <'\(;eptions, we 
 always «l('j)t on liorc, for it nia)' Ix; cusily giiessod 
 that our })oat8 ati'or(h:d little '^pace oi' roiivenieiice for 
 repose; and as urirjl Hie niiddh; of August we had 
 constant davliirht, that durinc/ the i)ifi:ht-hoiirs heing 
 very much like the gloom of !>moky old London iii a 
 mist, it would \u)i have been lasy for us to have 
 passed any i-munate ohjeets unohserved or unob- 
 servant. 
 
 Flaxman's Islaiid, which was reaf.-lu'd on the 10th, 
 ,ippi'ars, when a[)|)roaclie(l from ilie westward, high 
 and l)oM ; but this is the chaiiicter <4' tiio eastern 
 |)art oidy , its western <'xtreme is jjttle higher than the 
 " Lion." and encompassed by small spits and shoals. 
 We landed in the afternoon on a mvv gra\elly beach 
 
 at the eastern end, where clifls about forty feet high 
 rise abruptly from it, and i>n the summit of which 
 
 The 
 th 
 
 Avas found a human skull, and other bone 
 
 |)ac 
 
 k, which was heav\ . biv close down upon the 
 northern sliore of the island, the channel Ix'tween 
 which and the main was Jilso much crow ded with drift 
 ice. CamdiMi Hay, as Aiewed b'om the tup of the clitf, 
 a|)peare(l b) be ci>mj)letely blocked up with ice, and 
 we were somewhat apprehensive of .i stoppage, but 
 
254 
 
 NICIIIT ()N THE rCK. 
 
 V ;:• 
 
 1 h 
 
 ■*.' 
 
 r^ I 
 
 I t 
 
 considerable labour in pulling and pushing thi'ougli 
 the ice, brought us to a rlear though narrow lurn; of 
 water, close to the beach. We sa^v here, 1 thiuk, 
 more ice than at any other peiiod during our joumey ; 
 as far as the eye could range to seaward, nouglil, c^ise 
 was visible, and all varieties were presented — tlie l)nis]i. 
 or broken-up ice ; the floe, smooth unil flat, and often 
 many acres in extent ; and the tall ragged Inuinnoeks, 
 of pictin'es(jue outline, bergs n» nuiiiaturc. l'ViH{uent 
 loud reports br(jke upon the stillness, and startled the 
 ear, as masses rent asunder ; the sounds, with their 
 reverberating echoes, resembling the i'umbling of ftn- 
 off* thunder, or booming of distant cannon. 
 
 We were unable to reach the beach this eveniiiu, 
 owing to the shallowness of the water, and secured to 
 a grounded floe with the faithful pickaxe, which 
 liad desor\edly received promotion to an acting-drder 
 as anchor, liaving hauled the boats close togethei-, 
 the sails were s])read above, the kitchen was estab- 
 lished u])on the ice, and we repi)sed with sufticieiu 
 comfort until rud<'ly disturbed bv an under-tonu-uc oi' 
 ice; wliich breaking away, iloated up uuiler ilu- 
 boats, lifted them out of the water, nnd thnjw tluii\ 
 on their broadsides. \Vith some; diflicults we got rid 
 of tlu^ unwelcome intruder, and soon snoozed iguni. 
 It cost little trouble to raise cam}) next P'.orniiig, uiul 
 
BURY PEMMICAN. 
 
 255 
 
 we pushed on to Boulder Island to breakfast, tlie iee 
 liiiving happily drifted off sliore durinjx the niglit. 
 Here, amongst quniititiCN of drift tiudier, was u 
 straight trunk, full eighty feet in lenoih, and ten in 
 circumference at its base. Proeeednip- onwards, 
 eigiit tents, and a hut of driftwood, were espied 
 uj)(>n the shore, but, strange, to say, no natives 
 appeared: we did n(jl halt to examine them, but 
 pushed on with a liglit bree/e, and reaehhig Barter 
 tslanil late at night, landed .md i-neamped, 
 
 1 should think that Barter Ishuid is in the whiter 
 time nuieh overlaid by iee ; its shelving, shingly shore 
 ^\•ouid yield to the enormous pressiu'e of u gale- 
 driven ])ack. 
 
 Three eases of pennniean were buried on tiie 18th, 
 on a small island near Manning Point, and a cross 
 erected, with directions to search at ten feet distance, 
 north-east, where inlorniation was dep(jsited. Ne:ir 
 Humphrey's Point, on th(; nioriung of the 20th, 
 four tents were seen, froui which a eoupk- of dozen 
 natives came forth to gaze ; l)Ut Iteing under sail, we 
 could not linger here. We landed near ley Reef in 
 the afternoon to dine, and obs(Tved several huts, 
 loosely constructed of rods and driftwood, except 
 one or two, which were more eompactlv bidlt, and 
 had possibly served as winter dwellings. In one of 
 
256 
 
 NATIVK UTTS. 
 
 I| 
 
 i / ; 
 
 t 
 
 these I luiiiul -i (|unntity of kiiile-sliMviugs, some 
 sriiall WD'Mleii lisli lor deeoys and iiouts, and tli(! still 
 live emliers (»t a lire, we had also stieii a dot; on 
 landing, and this, in coniieetion with the Hrc, mdi.. 
 eati'd that naii\<'s could uol l)c far oiT, if, indeed, oiu 
 a|»[)earaner had not |)iit iheni to tliglit, These eon- 
 jeetures were correct in a short time ue saw a 
 innul)er of Esijuiniaiix in two (M.mialvs, and ni.idr 
 si;j;ns to thi ni to j'eUirn; hut lliey were evidently too 
 timid to a))[)roach. 
 
 As thev had seen us enter tlu huts, I judged il 
 probable that they uouhl venture thither to seek tin 
 result of our visit, so drc« ri lueroglyphic episllc 
 n|Km a piece of l)oard, and placed it, w'llji u lew 
 beads and scra[is ol tobacco, i)isi(h', then (h'j)avlc(I 
 to a tlist;nie( , where our men were preparmj^ dinner. 
 I'resentiv wf saw one or two creepniji; stcaithiU 
 t.e)wards thc' huts, and soon afterwards th(,!\ came |( 
 us Mithout distrust, doubtless assured of om ^('(^d 
 intentions by the discovery of the tritiin<i dcposil- 
 we had Ici't, aiul whu'h liicy now broiijjjht wiiji 
 them. The " eiitcntc- cordiale" was perlectetl In a 
 distribiiti(.n of prc>ents, jind we engaged in a wry 
 annnated, l)ul unproductive conversation resjiccting 
 the objects of our seareii, which they had cieuriy 
 seen notlniiL;; of. 
 
I'KHsoN.W, \l l'KAir\N( K. 
 
 i'ol 
 
 1- ( 
 
 The w'oiiicu of tills pnrty '.ore tlu-ir liuir iii u 
 iriotlo v(iiit« (lifren'iit U) tliat wv hnil Ix^foro seen ; 
 it was (lis(»()8efl jit tlie linck of tlie head in two 
 immense bows, which >ve found to eontain u qiinntity 
 
 o 
 
 f loo^e hair, t<> ineieuse tlieir size: nor can. I s; 
 
 ay 
 
 that either these or their dusky owners were of prc- 
 
 ssnig apjiearanee 
 
 Tl 
 
 u men were of sh^rht 
 
 er 
 
 figure than those about Point liarrow, t-nt evicU-ntly 
 possessed great aetivily and endnranr' of fatigue: 
 they wore their liair long and flowing far over 
 their shonhhrs. One of tlieni liad a broad and 
 short <ionble-edged kinfe, on whieli the naim^s of 
 "I. and IT. Sorby" were inij)riiit(!d thi.-^ must have 
 bren obtained by barter from the Indians, ah it was 
 of the kind ealled dagnes, suj)j)hcd l)y the Iluuson's 
 Bay Company to tho>e ])eople. We (piitted our new 
 Iriends after dinner, but eoidd only icaeh the northern 
 end of tlie reef that night, nrineipally in eonsequence 
 of a dense fog oceurnng Our eneanqmient was very 
 soon surrounded by a crowd of Esquimaux, of the 
 same app(mran<.!e as our visitors of tlie morning ; they 
 were, however, probably from their mnnbers, less 
 timorous, and, indeed, troubled ns nuicli, being 
 evidently not disinclined to appropriate' any stray 
 article. The " Supply," at tirst, creattid great sus- 
 picion of our integrity, as it was intimated that we 
 
SJ5H 
 
 8lIRK()UNI)l-.l) ,iV KfSC^lJIM.M'.'';. 
 
 ■} 
 
 ', I 
 
 hail probably obtiiinod Iut I»\ imdiu mul, |M)ssilj|\, 
 violent lucaiKs ; tlii^s doubt was, however speedily 
 eleured up by our •*i;;ris and repn seritaJions, nnd. 
 more tlum ail, the display aud disiribuiioD of brads, 
 tobaeco, and knives, with vvhi^li also we purchased 
 lisli, whicli they hud in plenty. Our visilaiits 
 gradually increased to a considerable nuiuher ; uud as 
 they encroached upon the defincul boundaries ot oni 
 camp, two rock(^ts were sent U|), ostensibly t(^ diNcit, 
 but re'dly in the hope ot iVightenuig the uativ<>s oti' id 
 a less dangerous proxinuty, 11 uj^ely astonished and 
 delighT((l they were ; and expressed their sensations 
 in a rapid How of speech, grimace, and gesticidation , 
 but they did not draw otl' to a distance, notuitli- 
 staiiding ; and unwilling to display tlie natural 
 anxiety attendant on the eneircling of oui slender 
 band by so large a iiumlici of strangers, wliost; 
 intentions we were quite ignorant of, the precaution 
 was taken, instead, of doubling the sentinels, Mud 
 impressing u|)on them the necessity of great vigilance . 
 These Es(piimanx made some signs which, coupled 
 with the fre<pient use of the word "mah-no-lah" 
 (white man), led us to conjecture that they saw the 
 expedition of Dease and Simpson, but of this we 
 could not be confident 
 
 The ]n-:\i morning (:21st) we proceedeil on oui 
 
KI8II.f^l'i;\UIN(» 
 
 'il)\) 
 
 joiiniev. '{%' }<<)0(l folks rollccfcd lodinl tnc nwU 
 near inir rcstiiig.|)liict , win* li l)rloii<r(>(l »<» some of 
 tlioiii, to bid us t'jiivudi , .iinl l\\v nii'ii Innncding 
 their tiny and I Hjjiiifi I'll] kifics, nrrotnjtauit'd iis for a 
 wliilo, the lijrlil. vohS(;|s. propelled by a doubli-bladed 
 paddle, dancing over the ripphii^ wjives li/cHf rn a 
 
 g08 
 
 oltl. 
 
 ase(' 
 
 sa' 
 
 uxl keeping pure with u> unji lini-.. ; 'use, 
 «' were fav'onreil Ity ii ii;i;lit liiueze, and 
 and sail Two of these men contniued 
 
 (S 
 
 w 
 
 (r 
 
 itli 'IS foi a considerable li 
 
 nie 
 
 and aiiiiised us 
 
 really by their proceedings. They frefiueiitly darted 
 their tisli-speiirs, or harpoons, at irnaginurj prey, to 
 demonstrate the mode ot using them, these spear?* 
 were about a yard long, of thin drift -A\ood, with 
 double or triple barbs ol' ivory ; Mh y wen; thrown 
 from a hand-board, uito whah they luted m n socket, 
 and had a bladder attat bed \o keep them afloat iu 
 th<? water, the huntcn" picking tli.iit up with gvejil ease 
 
 as 
 
 he 
 
 passed ra 
 
 pidly 
 
 onwards ni hi> ctinoc. 
 
 \Y 
 
 landed to dine at about noon, and were shortly joined 
 
 by the family of me of our trieiuls, wh<» liad haihxi 
 
 his spouse when passing the spot v In re liis tent was 
 
 pitched. In a very shoi't tune tlu^y Itad struck tlie 
 
 tent: this, with themselves and household gods, now 
 
 filled their ooiniak, which was laden to the gunwale. 
 
 Soon a number more of the natives arrived m single 
 
 « 2 
 
 V. 
 
 a 
 
%, 
 
 # 
 
 ^>. 
 
 ^ 
 
 .0^. %% 
 
 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 4 
 
 
 1.0 
 
 1.1 
 
 11.25 
 
 UilM 12.5 
 
 |5o i"^" MIHB 
 
 iiy& 
 
 1.4 il.6 
 
 I 
 
 
 '-^r 
 
 
 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Corporation 
 
 ¥f^ 
 
 4^ 
 
 \ 
 
 .!k 
 
 iS. WrS 
 
 23 WIST MAIN STtin 
 
 WIBSTM.N.Y. 145M 
 
 (716)«73-4S03 
 
 
260 
 
 MIGRA'IORV HABITS. 
 
 j'i } 
 
 and family boats, tlui latter all laden likt- thf first 
 oorniak, the party being a{)])arenlly about to change 
 theii" loealily ; for in sunirner th(dr existence is 
 entirely nomadic ; they migrate fiom place to place 
 as caprice or convenience suggests. A little bartering 
 was carrii d on between us, but we only remained on 
 shore loiig enough to cook dimier, then ])ushi'(l olV 
 from the land, and drifted slowly onward under 
 reduced sail, to eat our nn^al in petu't* ; nevertluiless, 
 this was not altogeth-r permitted ; the l*iS(|uini!ni\ 
 embarked at the same time ; the women and ehlldrcii 
 gomg up in-shore in the oomiaks, the men in tlioii 
 kiaks, to tin; number of a dozen (»r more, keej)in^ 
 company vvith ourscilves, eiuising round a/id id>ont us, 
 and displaying, as before, mimicry of chase juid 
 combat. They quitted us only when the freshening 
 breeze imj)elled our cnitt more lapidly than tin 
 pace of the deeply-laden oomiaks, whii^h they then 
 rejoined Two shales were seen during the after- 
 noon, and later, a goo<lly collection of tents, with 
 nbout two iiundred natives, assemblcfl near : these 
 shouted lustily, antl danced and sung with enei'i^y, 
 hoping, by these and other artifices, to induce us to 
 land, ol which, however, time dul not admit. 'Ihe 
 wind froHi west became strong towards evenmg, aful, 
 as was always the case, the sen (pn'ckly rose, upoji it^ 
 
DKSASTKOl S SHin' OF WIND. 
 
 261 
 
 !l 
 
 hf first 
 chill ige 
 eiice is 
 to jjlace 
 lartermg 
 lined oil 
 shi'd olV 
 il uiulci 
 n'tiu'Jess, 
 (|iuui!m\ 
 childvcti 
 ill ijioir 
 keeping 
 al>oiit tis, 
 hiisc juul 
 i'esheiiinf< 
 tliaii tlu; 
 hey thcu 
 .lie aft(n-- 
 iits, with 
 ar : tliese 
 1 eiiei'?;y, 
 
 ICC lis t(» 
 
 nit. The 
 img, and. 
 , upon it^ 
 
 increase. To obtain a few bearings of llerschel 
 Islaiul, and objects on tlie mainland, we ran under 
 the lee of the pack, which was very solid, consisting 
 of floe-pieces, two or three square miles in area, and 
 ten or twelve feet thick. Two reefs were now taken 
 iu the sails, a reduction the force of wind liad 
 rendered necessary ; hut the sea "followed" so fast, 
 that we ran some danger of swamping, and shortly 
 encamped for the night under the lee of a long spit, 
 which formed part of one of the small islands between 
 that of llerschel and the continent. The small tent 
 only was pitched for Mr. Pidlen and myself, the sea- 
 men taking up their quarters in a deserted Esqui- 
 maux hut. The ice met with to-day was heavier 
 than a]iv before encountered ; it lay close into and 
 upon the north-western shores of Ili^rschel Island, 
 with large floes and loose masses driving rapidly to 
 the eastward. I]arly on the 22nd a new disaster 
 occurred ; the wind shifted suddenly to the south- 
 w-est, to which (quarter only our position was 
 exposed. The hoats were driven broadside on to 
 the beach, and instantly filled. This misfortune did 
 more injury than any of the previous, as the iustru» 
 ments, and our only luxuries, consisting of a few 
 small stores, were completely immersed, and became 
 considerably diminished ; salt, pepper, mustard, sago» 
 
 f ! 
 
 ] 
 
 •\:i\.\i v-.w-^. -v ' 
 
^02 
 
 C ALTON POINT. 
 
 ' I 
 
 !M^ 
 
 h 
 
 and arrowroot, were in solution ; and the contents 
 of the medicine-chest wouhl have required careful 
 analysation to determine their respective quantities. 
 With much labour, and many duckings, the boats 
 were cleared, and all but irretrievable damages 
 repaired; and by seven, v/c had launched and re- 
 loaded the boats. The wind was still very strong 
 when we embarked, requiring double-reefed sails, 
 with which we proceeded until eleven, when, to 
 secure the safety of the "Supply," we ran under 
 Herschel Island, and took an early dinner; for the 
 periods of our meals were at all times subjert to 
 the convenience of the moment. The afternoon's 
 fortune was little propitious : the three boats all ))ro- 
 ceeded under sail, the " Supply" being closely waited 
 upon by the others, which was indeed a necessary 
 measure of precaution, for she shipped a good deal oC 
 water, and obliged us to come to an early hjdt under 
 the lee of a gravelly island spit, near to and south- 
 east of CaltoL nt. Long large fires of drift-wood 
 were nit-'le, on each side of which the damaged 
 biscuit \ms spread, and in this way considerably 
 dried ; but one evil was repaired only by the infljictirm 
 of another ; for in addition to its previous mouldiness 
 and gall-like flavour, it was, now plentifully inter- 
 mixed with sand and grit, which fought lierce battles 
 
CL'HIOLIS MOUNDS. 
 
 5>63 
 
 oC 
 
 
 ; 
 
 with our haplesM molars. Kay's J'oiiit was rounded 
 in the afternoon of th<^. 2.'.U'd, diiruig the morning of 
 whicli we were visited by a small party of Esqui- 
 maux, and our night's sojourn was niiide a few niucs 
 to tlie eastward, where ,vere several deserted huts of 
 drift-wood, of which latter great quantities lay upon 
 the beach, proving its exposed position. 
 
 The banks were liigh and steep, and covered with 
 grass and flowers in luxuriance, among which wc 
 chased three red foxes. A single Esquimaux visited 
 our bivouac, with (vw signs of fear ; and after re- 
 ceiving some small presents, d(}j)arted to fetch us 
 some lish. Durhjg this and the previous night n 
 heavy dew was first observed. Our \isitor returned 
 m a few hours, bringing the promised lish ; and had 
 be(.*ome so well assured of our amicable disposition, 
 that his wife and children now accompanied him. 
 We tracked along shore during the morning, which 
 was the most favourabhi mode of proceeding. 
 Mr. Pullen and myself roamed fre<juently along and 
 above the high banks in search of plants and flowers, 
 which we never failed to collect ; and while so 
 engaged I came upon a very extraordinary spot : four 
 or five immense mounds, like the ancient barrows so 
 frcHjuently met with in England and elsewhere, stood 
 upon a nearly level space, in a break in the high 
 
^(,i I 
 
 KISQllMAlX WfNTKU HA.M1,ET 
 
 t 'i 
 
 ' i 
 
 bunkis, hetw('<'n King and ^^ubine I\»iiits Tliev \vv\t 
 fr<ini twenty to forty f<;«'f liigb. and then- sunimits ;»t 
 It'iist a hundR(] abovd the sen, conieal in form, and 
 piereod with innumerable swallow .holes. Flaccd 
 where they could be of no use to any |K'0])le, too fjir 
 removed from the sea, and too re}?ular ni form to 
 have been recently shaped by its aetictn, they were a 
 complete paradox ; and I eould coneeive no c.'iiise, 
 natural or iU-tiHcial, for their existenee in this spot, 
 nnless, as their substance was mud and verv tine 
 black mould, they were formed l»y deposit from sikn 
 cessive laud-slips, m sueceedinf«: sj)rino; seasrtns, u[>on 
 the melting of the snows. I had not, imfortunately, 
 tune for minute notice of these remarkal)le objects, as 
 tlu' boats and my comrades were already tar in 
 advance, and I was forced to follow in haste. 
 
 We landed in the evening near Sabine Point, nn>l 
 found here im Esquimaux wiuter hamlet, built ot 
 drift-wood and sods. It was at jiresent only tenanu d 
 bv femalt's of all ages and very young boys, the men 
 being all abseiit on tishmg and hunting excursions. 
 The younger ladies, some of whom were prettily- 
 featured and of toliTable figure, lent their assistance to 
 haul the boats ujjon the beach ; nor was tlieirs trifling 
 aid, for, reared in unremitting oil, they are strong 
 and hardy enough ; nor does their vigour appear to 
 
1 
 
 STK\l,lNf;. 
 
 ZC't) 
 
 a 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 decline early; for although nearly all the old women 
 we saw were, candidly to speak, almost hideous, their 
 strength did not seem io have forsukeii them 
 greatly. We obtained by barter some very fine fish, 
 among which were beautiful salmon, also various 
 articles of dress and curiosity. From one damsel I 
 purchased the frock she wore ; and although we of a 
 rnihier clime fomid the night sensibly cold, \\iv loss 
 of the garment did not seeni to be at all inconvenient ; 
 it wa ! decorated with a mmiber of small white beads, 
 but these were particularly exempted in tlui bargain, 
 and the girls were all most anxious to obtain this 
 kind. A few faint streaks of Aurora were observed 
 to night, the first seen during the st;ason. I think it 
 worth while to notice tlu^ abstraction of two articles 
 at this place, taken probably Mdiile the boats were 
 partly unloaded : one was a l)ottle, containing lemon 
 syrup ; the other a handsome clasp-knife, of Spanish 
 manufacture, about ten inches long, having the 
 handle of ivory, with etching in compartments ; its 
 recognition by any future expedition may be 
 [)roductive of interest. 
 
 A strong current running to the westward, of 
 fresh and yellow water, evidenc(\d on the 25th 
 proximity to the efflux of the Mackenzie, our delight 
 at which may well be imagined. We landed in the 
 
260 
 
 \\h AriMU)A('ll OUK GOAL. 
 
 i i 
 
 moniitig on Escape Ucof, to examine tlie compasses, 
 wliich had become unaccountably sluggish, and 
 indeed useless ; and passing bijtween tliis a!id the 
 mainland, gromuU'd in th(> afternoon in Shualuatei 
 Hay, and hmded for the night on 'lent Island, which 
 is aptly named, for several curious very slight frames 
 of wood, which were evidenily for tents, stood near 
 where we pitched our canvas houses. Tins was ii 
 beautiful sj)ot, verdant an<l level, and intersected hy 
 long lakes of pellucid water. During the day two 
 Esquimaux men — the last we saw on the voyage; — 
 came out to us in their kiaks, and accompanied us 
 for a considerable distance : they were full of talk, 
 but we could only make out thai a large river wu.s 
 near, with wliite men on its banks. In our jnogress 
 on the 20th, we began to observe low scrub along 
 the shore ; the n\ ater also was greatly discoloured, 
 turbid, and perfectly fre.sh ; all evidencing i\ear 
 approach to the goal of our ardent wislu's. 
 
 We WTre engjiged durhig the 27th in making 
 observations and examining sundry labyrmlhinc 
 j)assages ; and in the afternoon entered a narrow, but 
 de(;p and ra[)id cliannel, which we ascended for 
 about two miles, where we landed on tlu; left bank, 
 and hailed with satisfaction om* entrance into 
 the Mackenzie River, and the probal)le speedy 
 
 ; .-i-^ 
 
H 
 
 ASCI'.NT OK TIIL M ACKP'A'ZI !■ ItlVKH. 
 
 267 
 
 mipassi's, 
 isli, aiul 
 uiitl the 
 tioalwHk'r 
 d, which 
 ht frniues 
 ootl near 
 lis was a 
 
 (lay tvv(» 
 vovaK<i — 
 )aiiie(l us 
 
 of talk, 
 I'lvi'f was 
 
 ])iogres8 
 lib along 
 coloured, 
 mg i\i'ar 
 
 inakiu}^ 
 yniilhinc 
 
 ITOW, but 
 xloci for 
 eft Ijuiik, 
 ICC into 
 • speedy 
 
 tcrniumtiou of this arduous umi most comfortless 
 voyag(!. 
 
 A clttuae in Mr. Pullcri's iiistruotioiks directed, if 
 possible, a visit to Whale island ; this he attempted 
 with one boat's crew next day, l)ut returned in the 
 evening of the iiOtJi, without having accomplished 
 his object, the weather having bt^en very iuhniral 
 to success. 
 
 'I'he ascent of the river was accomplished princi- 
 pally by tracking, which, alvays labt^rioiis, was here 
 a very great task for our j)ooi' fellows, who were 
 almost new to its deUghts, Mini had fre(|viently to 
 wade knee-deep in water or mud, with a temperature 
 coiisideral)ly lielow freezing. The banks were covered 
 near the sea witli low willow send) ; l)Ut as we 
 proceeiled, this grew liigher : a few stunt(;d spruce 
 tirs aj)pearcd, and gradually am rigorous characttjr of 
 the vegetation ciianged to a nulder asjiect. Tiie 
 tracks of l)ears, rno< and reindeer, were frequent ; 
 occasionally, also, prn ts of the mocassins of some 
 solitary hunter gave sign of human hfe. Tlu* banks 
 displayed the effects of the enormous lt»r(!e excited l)y 
 the Sj)riug-flushes, with tbeir cargoes of icf •, being, 
 m the bends of the channel, un termincd to v\ ithin a 
 few feet of the surface, and in some places a succes- 
 sion of terraces had been formed by the same agents. 
 
 I I. 
 
 hi 
 
208 
 
 FORT MVCI'IlKRStjN. 
 
 1: ' 
 
 '•i 
 
 Oil flu' Uh oi St'|)f«Mii1)«'f, nWvv riiiiiirkiii<^ tin* 
 
 colli iiniiillv incrcjiHiiijj: liixuriimrc ot vcgcialioii an<l 
 
 growth ottlu' ti'crs, and passing n cliunnrl wlii( li vvt; 
 
 took to \k) the mouth ol the IN'cl llivcr, wi; n'ach<'fl u 
 
 ()Osifion at tirsi conjt'cturcil lo In? IN)int Separation, 
 
 whu'h ohservations placeil iis four miles to tlie south 
 
 of. Mr. Fiillen hihI nivself kt'f our cncampniriit with 
 
 one hoat to evaniiue thi' liatiks, luiry informal ion, 
 
 ami ereet a cross ; am! on return hiarneil that an 
 
 Indian luul visited the party, and given thi iniii lu 
 
 understand l»v signs that a settlement of whites was 
 
 not far distant, to which Mr. I'lilh-n detenmiicd to 
 
 proctvd, ttiongh now pretty conlident tluti Uf h.-iit 
 
 us(.'eii(h'<l tlie I'eel 1)\ mistake, and v, fre near tii.' tort 
 
 of the Hiidsoirs Huv (.'ompaiiv, estabhsficd on ii> 
 
 hank This opiiii<jii was «;orrect ; we were nut ,iii 
 
 the morning of the otli liy Mr. Wm. iiUeas Ihudi.srv, 
 
 the g(nith'man in chaige ol the post, who had heeii 
 
 informed of our approach by the Indian who visited 
 
 tht! tents lust evening ; and lu; now escorted us to 
 
 the estahlishmeiit, which was stAle*! Tort jMa('pltersoii. 
 
 I enter now upon tjio relation of a period uliich 
 
 has little in common with the foregoing parts ol mv 
 
 narrative : an entirely new phase of existence has to 
 
 he presented — new habits, new companions, almost a 
 
 new nature. No longer nimates of a ship, no longd' 
 
 1 
 
I 
 
 I'KOCKF.I) ID I'OHT fiOOI* IKM'K. 
 
 JlM> 
 
 ti'in|)tiii{i;, «'!» )' iMini'M iiiiil tVo/cn cuust, tlir ft-iirrul 
 (•onsotjiiciicc's <;ontiiiif(Mil. in (mr mi|uo\itlt'(l condition, 
 n]K)n tlir dcstrnclion of our tVinl bniks, or irn[ic<lini('tit 
 to onr |»r<)p;rrss, I liiivc Itt spt-ak nl" '.liiMiv vvintfir h 
 icsidrncc in almost clut'.loss solitude, amul dense 
 t'on-sls iind universal snow. 
 
 Our aseeiu ol' the Mmken/ie had Ixeu uud(;rtJiken 
 for the purpose of reaehinj;!; Fort (Jood Hope, where, 
 or at this place, it was iiitei»ded wf slumld winter; 
 the report of the n-sourccs ol tins station induet;d 
 Mr. I'ullen to leave a jiwrtion ol" liis part} here, an<l 
 j)roceed witii the remainder to Fort (Jood II opt; ; the 
 e\peditioti to unite iti the spriii}]!' to ]»roeeed to 
 Kn^land. He u('eordin«»:ly gave u>e oniers to remain 
 with five men , the greater ))orti(»n of tli(; stores 
 with one boat, were also left , and on tlie (ith of 
 September Mr. Pullen with seven men departed in 
 the " liOgnn" for Fori (io(jd Hope, which is the 
 most northerly ])ost of the Hudson's Ba}' Company on 
 the Mackenzie Hiver, and tor wln(;h phu^e he v\'aa 
 furnished Mith a miide. 
 
 There were several Indians at I'ort Maepherson, 
 
 who awaited tl ■ return of a boat which is yearly 
 
 disjjnlched up the Ma(?ken/,ie to Fort vSimpson, the 
 
 head -quarters of the district, for suppliers to barter 
 
 in exchange for the furs and provisions furnished by 
 
5i70 
 
 rill-; i.ouuiKrx indiann. 
 
 
 them. Tluy wore now |in'|)n;in«^ tor a ^rimd iliuic*' 
 upon her urrivul, wliich i.s alvvjiys u must iiiijionant 
 event and scnson of rejoicing to tlicni. lj|ii)ij n 
 line on the strnnd linti^ several oagle-skins, witli the 
 feathers of which they wouhl ornniiient theiasrlvcs on 
 the festal occasion. Tla-y were to-day painted in 
 ditterent ways and varieties of colour; some with 
 broad patches across the tm\; , others with siripcs, 
 and having one cheek; or ey(>hrow of a ditterent line 
 to its op])osite. i observed one or two aviiIi 
 "wainpinn"fa kind of long liollow shell), throtitrh 
 the se])tuTu of the nose; Init nnderstood tlmt tins 
 appendage is gradunlly falling nito disus(^ since ihc 
 settlement of whites in this (jiuirttT. The Indians wr 
 were among belonged it* the large tribe of Lou(lu;n\. 
 or Quarrellers, and wtre particularly distinguished l)v 
 the title of " Fond du Lac li(nicheux," that being the 
 name of an enlargement in this, tiie Peel River, tivt 
 days* jouniey (about ii hundred miles) above the tuit, 
 where these Indians congregate in great numbers lo 
 fish. Another tribe called " Hats" come across the 
 mountains from the Hat river with meat and fms to 
 barter. The two tribes speak the same language, but 
 have a somewhat dilferent pronunciation of it. T(i< 
 very obliging connnuiiications of Mr. Ilardisty gave 
 them a character for great indolence and improvi- 
 
 ! 
 
n Kioijw M \Ti«iM<isi M, (T's'nni. 
 
 271 
 
 
 J 
 
 «l«!ii(Hi ; tin; '■ l''oii(l <lii LiKs" itiorc so jx rlinji; tliaii 
 tlur Knt Ind'iuis. Tlicy iwv holh gioit •ronimiMli^iiTH, 
 and will ilcvoiir solid (at, or cviii drink gnrisc. to 
 surffiliiig. U'Ihmi ni provisiwn thcv puss their lime 
 in rontinual feasting, and aro of coiuse ofti n in the 
 opposite cxtienie, but do not hear slarvation with so 
 great ])atien(;o as the " Dogrilis," Hare, or Slave- 
 Indian!^. 
 
 A nirious custoi'i niatriuioiiin! is said to e' ist 
 among them, wlueh Mr. Ilardihty tlniN related to iie. 
 When a feniaie ehild becomes two or time years old, a 
 bargain is mnd(^ with the pannts, in which the mother is 
 most mterested, by some yontli of the trdte, that she 
 is to become his wife wlien tiiiii'ria<;e;ilile the settle- 
 ment is deferred until that period, but the contract is 
 always binding : and shtaild another lovi^r step in, 
 and by any means succeed m obtaimng tl»e damsel, 
 she is n(;t considered to be his vvife until he itas made 
 satisfactory comptnsntion to the ci-devuxt britle- 
 grooin. Polygamy in practised, genernllv in proportion 
 to tlui rank and wealth of the man, a young wife 
 being added to the; •slock nu haml, m hen one becomes 
 too old for the laborious em])loyuients uuposed upon 
 the females ; the new^ ac(piisition becoming, of course, 
 the favourite sultana. 1 saw while here a IjOiujIicux 
 Indian, wiio, some five years since, killed one of the 
 
272 
 
 INDIAN rCRHENCY. 
 
 i I 
 
 " Rats," with whom his tribe were then at einiiity. 
 and lii:^ Ufe vvus sought in return Tlie C()nij)anv, 
 however, redeemed his lite by payment of a fine, imd 
 the tribt^s are now on a fvicnidiy footing ; the thie 
 paid was forty ■■^kim, to explain which term I nnist 
 notice that the Indian currency, or that set up by tlic 
 Hudson's Bay CV)mpany in their exchanges with tht- 
 Indians, is (conducted by means of [>roportionate 
 vaUies t(> a single standard. This stamhu'd is a hu'ge 
 beaver-skiii, and called a skin : thus the prii c |iaid 
 to ledecni this man's life was not really lorty beaver- 
 skins, but articles of value equivalent tu their amount, 
 as follows : — 
 
 A guu .... 
 
 equa 
 
 Uo 
 
 20 
 
 Hkin.s 
 
 A hlanktit 
 
 X 
 
 
 10 
 
 '» 
 
 >Si.s iiieasni-os of powiJiT . 
 
 ♦t 
 
 
 () 
 
 „ 
 
 Thirty-Bix bullets . 
 
 M 
 
 
 2 
 
 M 
 
 A large worsted belt 
 
 l» 
 
 
 2 
 
 ;t 
 
 Totiil valuo received 
 
 40 
 
 By this species of exchang*^ qv value nil .'ulicles 
 on either side are rated, the company hfiviui; an 
 establi.shed tariff for caeli district, vvhicli may not, 
 on any acc(nni.t, Ix^ deviated from, unless by revision 
 at he;id-([uarters. 
 
 The Indians and Esquimaux are still as great 
 enemies as when Dease and Simpson made their 
 excursions upon the coast, despite the stremioii.- 
 
t enmity, 
 couipaiiv, 
 fine, iiiul 
 
 the tine 
 1 1 in\ist, 
 ip hy tlio 
 
 with tile 
 )orti')n«te 
 is a liiffn' 
 iriee paid 
 
 I" amount, 
 
 II articles 
 
 fivuij; an 
 
 may not, 
 ^' revision 
 
 n.H great 
 dc their 
 <trennon> 
 
 1 I 
 
 INDIAN C^f AKHKI.S, 
 
 273 
 
 endeavours of offieers of the Company to establish 
 friendly intercounse. J^iey are nnitiially afraid ; but 
 the Esfjuimaiix are tiow non})ln88ed by tlie guns of 
 their adversaries They say that they only (iutin'tain 
 hatred against the Loueheii\ of T'ond iln Lae, and 
 constantly meel and (lonveisf with those of the 
 Macken/n% although with an mtervenhig distance, 
 each proba])ly stantlnig tn sns])icious fear of the 
 othei ; but M'ith the Indians of ihe Peel Kivcr the 
 case IS very (ht^'erent. "War to the knife'' exists 
 between them and the Es<iiiimaux. There is a 
 tradition accounting tor this, whieli, although vague, 
 I thhik wotthv ofnu-ntion. 
 
 Many wintej's ago, liow far hack is uncertnm, tlie 
 two races weiv friends, and \\:>v,d to hunt together. 
 On one of these occasions., wlu n a large party was 
 assembled, a few of the Indians, who, with a immber 
 of the EstiuJniaux, had been detached from the main 
 body, did not return with ihetii. The Es(piimaux 
 said that they had txcome separated , bnt tliis was 
 not (Mcdited by the friends of the missing who 
 believed them to have been treacherously murdered. 
 Dissembhng their intentions, they parted from the 
 others, and r<'turjung b\ night, atfacketl and killed 
 many of them • the feud has since that period been 
 constantly kepi alive by Hlternate outrages 
 
 T 
 
 I ! 
 

 ClIAPTEK XVTl 
 
 I Ufe ) ■■] 
 
 i n ■ 
 
 V 
 
 Horrible Esquimaux attack. — MuHsacre of Loiichetix.- iDdiaii bravorj'.— 
 Auatomiual research.- Five ('oinmonei's make ouc Oiiof. — Mr. J'cih's 
 uuijuccoissful mediation, -ludjumustiactsoi'revengo. — [udiau su))i)lii-H. 
 Ltiiivo for Fort Norniati — Tti'iian Guides. —Fullowi'va do;; us. — Enemy 
 captures our storoa-- loiter Mackenzie.— CJuides quit us.--Dog« again, 
 — Eucamp. — Our hut tako.s fire. fine Fme.sts. - Tce-niasti'r frost- 
 bitten.— Reach Fort Good Hope.- Mr. McBeath; lufi kind atleiitidas. 
 — Cent .Sous Rapid.-- Rear River. --Burninc; liaiik;-. — Reu( h Forfc 
 Norrnau.--Mr McKenzio: his hospitfdity. — Salteaux' Legend of tiio 
 Deluge. "Wolf Tjrotlicrs & Co. 
 
 Four or five years ago a party of fiftct'ii or t\v(M»lv 
 Esquimaii-c ascoiidod the Macken/ie, and ciitiTcd the 
 Peel river, where, just at it>* mouth, were eurinnprd 
 a party of Fond du Lac Louehenx, coiisistui^ of 
 tliree men, tlieir wives, and Ave chil(h'en. Tiie.st 
 they came upon secretly at niglit, and surrounding 
 the h)dge wherein thtiy sh*|)tj gave a tearful \rll, 
 which awakened the innuites, who, rushing out in 
 attVidit, w«'rc successively struck down l»v tlic arrows 
 of then* mercdess foes ; only one cs(a[R'd, a little boy. 
 of nine years old, who ma<le his way tluougli tin' 
 wood^, up to the Company's f(»rt, tu the surprise both 
 of fri(?nds ami cnennes, who never expected hnn to 
 
AN INDIAN IIF.HO. 
 
 275 
 
 live througli the journey, if rvoii nhk to find his wny 
 up to the Fort thronn-l) the tau}^-|(,<l maze,, wliicli had 
 sheltered hirn. Aftei- tins Icroeious exploit the 
 Esquiiiuuix party continued their ascent of the 
 "Peel/" and at a eouple of nu]<s distiniee below the 
 present Fort cneountered au Indian, suic*^ niek- 
 named Ikmrreau, or the hanginnn, hut \\ liose proper 
 appellation was V'ajd-sieli-teliah (tlu; deer's ])rolhcr). 
 The chief and three others crossed a snuill erci^k, 
 behind which the rest of tlie party lay in andmsh ; 
 and counterfeiting friend.shi|), cominenced to pai-ley 
 with Le Bourreau., who, however, k!io\\iug his com- 
 puny, was not lightly deceived ; and so(ni observing 
 significant winks interchanged, and arrows siily pre- 
 paring, instantly anticipated his foes l)y taking rhe 
 initiative. lie felled the chief witii his gun, and 
 discharged it at another, who was also kdled ; the 
 other two gauied theu* canoes hi haste; hut otk; of 
 them, received a shot, and falling over, capsized his 
 fjaii Ijark ; the other man tried to iiglu his boat, but 
 uas at last obliged to lefive him to his fate, having 
 himself been hred at, but without efl'ect. Those in 
 ambush also thd ; and Lo Bomreau commenced a 
 post-mortem evamination of the chief, merely, as he 
 expressed himself, to see if h« A\a> ht. lie made 
 incisions lengtliwise aiul crosswise hi the; carcase, 
 
 !' 
 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ,?• 
 
 1 
 
 
 %■ 
 
 * 
 
 - I 
 ■ i I 
 
 ■Xr, i 
 
 T 2 
 
S>70 
 
 ESQUIMAUX ANIMOSJTV, 
 
 ', I 
 
 I . I 
 
 i . ) H ' i 
 
 \ t 
 
 vf! 
 
 f *i I 
 
 1 1 
 
 pullfd out tlu' mlciKH' an'iiugf'iueiits, pssibl}, like 
 heathen priests, to consult their mifjuries, aud ciittiiiij; 
 the cheek->»oties out, brought theru uf) to the ibrt, 
 and offered to present them as a troj)h) to Mr. Prudeii, 
 then in eliargi' of the post. 
 
 Since that period no afli'ray luid occurred heiween 
 tlie hostile parties, nor liad l']stjniinau\ been st;en m 
 the l\'el ; but thr Rat Indians were informed l)v n 
 party of E^(jniniau\, who hve soinewliere near the 
 Colville, and are friendly, that those near the month 
 of the MackiMi/ic declartul that thev nnist have tivc 
 lives of Louciieux for that of the clii«>f who wa.s killrd 
 
 Mr. Peers, one of tin* Conii)anyV officers. txymU- jin 
 endeaxour, not long hrl'ore the period of oiw visit, to 
 conciliate the Es(|uiniauA. lie sent vmhous [)n'st iii> 
 to them with niessagts of friendly import; Itnt lluy 
 repli''d that he desired only to entrap them, atul tliMt 
 the whites su))plied the Louchfux with guns f<>i t\\rw 
 destruction 
 
 These excellcMit and praiseworthy cndeavrnirs wctv 
 thus rendered abortive ; nor would it l)e an easy \;\<.\s 
 to reconcile the races, since even the Lo\ichcux. when 
 offered re\\ar<ls to abstain from iiostditics, would nitt 
 accept them, saviuif. that tht;v sluadd onlv break faith 
 with their friends the whites, as they could not restrain 
 themselves at sight of an Ks(juiinau\, Inil must ha\e at 
 
l), like 
 cnttinij; 
 he fort, 
 Pnuleii, 
 
 iichvocii 
 seen in 
 led l)y H 
 I oar the 
 L" niMUtli 
 ii\e fiv<' 
 l^ki!l.•,l 
 rnfidc ill) 
 visit, to 
 prctst'iiiN 
 »Mt they 
 atid tli.-il 
 oi their 
 
 irs ucfc 
 Hsy tri>jk 
 IX, uh<'ii 
 >nl(i Unt 
 ak iiiirli 
 )•( strani 
 t ha\r 111 
 
 I 
 
 INDIAN SIPPLIES. 
 
 277 
 
 him This wus at iiiiy rate an ingenuous and honest 
 (•«)nl"ession, however niueh it displayed the revengeful 
 tendency of their savage natures. 
 
 An Indian who, \vith two others, arriv(;d at the Fort 
 with meat, had been Aery sueeessfnl m his sumnu^r's 
 lumt. lie had kiMed sinee -luly nearly a liundred 
 reindeer and one tuoose, the dried sidt^s of which had 
 been put in " caches " in the luotnitains, vvlienee upon 
 the snowfidl, they would be brought hither by dogs 
 and sledges. 
 
 The l^tli of September brought the long-expected 
 boats from Kort Sim]»son, and with tliem came 
 Mr. .FVers, who resuiucd charge of the station. 
 Myself and party were very disagreeably surprised by 
 a conununication fiom that gentleman that we could 
 not l)e retained la-'ri' durhig the winter, instifiieiency 
 of provisi(ms bemg assigned as the reason. Mr. Peers 
 had seen Lieutenant Pidlen near Fort (iood Mope, 
 but no conunimication had occurred tm the subject, 
 and a short note from my cotumander had no reference 
 to it 
 
 1 was recomnu'iided to proceed immediately to Fort 
 Nonnan, an intermtHhate post on the Mackenzie, 
 whei'e 1 should tind '' ample maintenance " for myself 
 and party. There was no help f'^>»' it , go we must, 
 and at noon next dav we batle farewell to our kind 
 
 li 
 
 
 5 1 
 
278 
 
 LEAVE FORT MAC PHEHSON. 
 
 friend Mr. Ilardisty, whose most obliging dispoMition 
 I \wi\) pay tribute to ; also to Mr. and Mrs. Peers, that 
 gentleman liavnig been accompanied by his bride, and 
 depiirted on a journey which we regretted had nol 
 been undertaken a fortnight earlier ; for, as may well 
 be gu(sst.'d, the advance of the season did not 
 increase the niihbiess of temperature. We were 
 obliged to leave foui' hundred pounds of jireserved 
 meats and vegetables behind, our hoat — which hnd 
 been suugly haiiled up on tlie heach in expectation of 
 the winter's sojourn — being too deeply huien to larrj/ 
 thcni. 
 
 Two Indians accompanied us, to point out the 
 nearest cut into the ISbiekcnzie, after which we were to 
 find onj" own way as we best might to b'ort Good 
 ]Io])e. AA'e did not encamp untd a late lionr, aiul 
 wew. greatly anmsed by the antics of our guides, 
 who vMve continually pee))ing and ])eering iibont 
 among the hushes, and into th<' shadows, evidently in 
 an agony of suspense lest Es(|uiniau\ should he 
 lurking in tlie vicinity. 'I'lic Indians were ecrtainly 
 greatly ab'aid of their sen-coast neighbours, who, 
 since the iiccpiisition of tirt'arms, also stand nnu'h in 
 awe of those ])osseMsing tlaim. We were greatly 
 annoyed, ^oou after departing from Fort Mac Pherson. 
 to see nearly a dozen dogs belonging to the establish- 
 
ENTER MACKENZIE HIVEB. 
 
 279 
 
 f '# 
 
 iiient following its nloriy; the rivcr'si hank, and 
 endeavoured to drive tlieni bark; Imt vvitlwiut per- 
 manent success, as at'ter cncampnij.'; at a late honr, 
 we were vexed at theij* ruijniu<.'; in amongst ns ; nor 
 \\m Iheii' journey bootless During the niglit the 
 rascals made a deteinuned attack upon the boat, and 
 ate up about thirty j)0unds of fresh veinson, v hich we 
 had brought for inriuediate consumption. They must 
 have had cunning and ))erseveranee enough, jis it 
 was stovx^ed in the bottom of the hout, and well 
 covered np. 
 
 On entering the Mackenzie early novt morning the 
 Indians ((uitted us, and we pursued our way alone. 
 The great breadth and swift (;unen1 of the river 
 presented a remai'kable (;ontrant to th(> narrow 
 sluggish strean' we had just left, and my wonder 
 was great however we coidd havc^ entered the Peel 
 by mistake ; but the mystery was easily explained. 
 The ]Vlackenzi(\ at Fohil Separation, divules mto two 
 branches, which are again suliilivided in their descent 
 into a ])erfeet labyrhith of narrow channels. 
 
 Those horrid dogs folhnved us until hilc. in the 
 afternoon, although we i:ro^sed th(^ river several times 
 for convenience of tracking, which is the universal 
 mode of ascending these rapid rivers, unless a strong 
 fair breeze makes sails of uee. Passing Point 
 
 n 
 
^so 
 
 (OMI'MMs OK III I \()YA(i!r, 
 
 ! I 
 
 . 1 
 
 5 1 
 
 i , 
 
 1 I 
 
 SejmiaMoii, tlic lieM.I ol llir (Icltii we (.'iioiHitjX'd lute 
 
 in tlu' cvt'iiinjj;. if tlial iiuiy he <'mII(mI ('ii<"!un|)ing •■''hif;h 
 
 was simplv hjz;l)hii[^' a lire uiul S(|ii!t1ting rmiiul n, 
 
 with no otiii'f slitllt'i' tliaii our sjiil- -<» vccy siuuil 
 
 afiair--to prott-d six pcoj)!*. Soon at'tt r landing ono 
 
 of tlic t:xv\Y iiifonncd iii<' lu' liad M'l-.n an Est|iiinian\ 
 
 ooinial\ pnllinp; up in-sliorc al dnsk ; bnt r.ot having 
 
 hccii rcrtain, would not iiicntioii it at, the tina-. 
 
 Ik'sirin|j; iiim ncNrr opnn lo licsitatc in ^ucii a cast , 
 
 I set a WMtili diinng- the ni^iit. and hud the ann^- in 
 
 readiness. Itnl we sau no sign of )h( ItnuKeav, and I 
 
 do not donht hv was mistaken I had pioenrod 
 
 a lihinkel (or each nam at. J eel s liivi'j-; this conilori. 
 
 abk^ provisioi) modified, in a tneasniv, the seventv oi 
 
 our jonvney Inn at tins late period of the season \\r 
 
 snflered sulticKMitlv from its inch.'menev, as frost and 
 
 snow had ^et m. At that ])eii()d I was so Uttle expe~ 
 
 rienci<i in this mode of travelliiifa;, as to be nnahh to 
 
 avail myself of many now well-known expoilieiits for 
 
 additional comfort. .\or had the gentlemen al I'ort 
 
 Mae Pherson thoiiiirlit of .•nlighiening my igiionniee, 
 
 being so much acenstomed to this piiniitivc^ life as to 
 
 detiin it i)robabl> a matter (A course thai we should 
 
 know ;dl about it. In our ascent of the river we had 
 
 varied fortune : an (;eeasional tine dav, but juore 
 
 geuj'rally snow ami sleet, with bitnig winds. Many 
 
IM\K FDUKSTS. 
 
 ^81 
 
 t I 
 
 i]xnl lute 
 ng which 
 rouiid It. 
 ^^ry sinull 
 
 iniii^ DUO 
 
 ot liaving 
 the time. 
 
 v\\ a CilSr. 
 
 '. anii^ ill 
 
 ;;ai', and 1 
 
 ])n>nirc(l 
 
 i Cl'Dilnil 
 
 ic verity -ti 
 
 reason \V(.' 
 
 rost and 
 
 ttle cxpc- 
 
 ! liable to 
 
 heiits for 
 
 I ai Tort 
 
 giitaaiiee, 
 
 ile us to 
 
 shoiihl 
 
 r \ve had 
 
 )ut jiiore 
 
 Manv 
 
 I. 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 hirrls wore seen . swans, goese, ducks, liawks, crows, 
 a tew gulls, and others ; also tVeqiient tracks of moose 
 and reindeer ()n(^ night we took nj) our (juarters in 
 a deserted Indian lodge, a most weleonio shelter, of 
 winch however we were nearly deprived ; for having 
 lit a tire inside, a spark caught the dry material of the 
 hiiv, wliieh was constnicted of logs and pine-brnsli, 
 and roofed Avith bark, and s])e(~di]y set it in u blaze, 
 which we had some ditJicnlty in (jnenehing. 
 
 One is much struck on first ae(|naintanee with tlie 
 dense forests, principally of j)ine, whic'li cover the face 
 of this country, at observing large tracts overrun 
 with fire, which withers and scatlies trees and lesser 
 vegetation alike. VVc saAv many such fires and their 
 effects, A spark from an Indian's [npe, or the unex- 
 tinguished fire of a bivouac, ignites the grass and 
 moss, and witli {i breeze very soon overspreads large 
 spaces. These fires will 'Veqnently smoulder through- 
 oat the Slimmer amongst the moss and underwoud, 
 ceasing omy when ijuenchc d by the M'inter's snows. 
 
 Th(^ ice-master, svho was of the party, was iinfor- 
 tunitel) frost-bitten in the toes on the night of the 
 2kh. The injury was much aggravated by exposure 
 to the fire before circidation was restored ; and he 
 suffered long and severely. 
 
 We reached Fort Good Hope in tlie evening of 
 
 i 
 
282 
 
 INDIAN ournKs. 
 
 the :3()tli, mid wore kiiully wolcomod by Air, Ailiiiii 
 Mac Boath, tlio gcntlonmii in rluirgo of that stntion, 
 who paid every nttention to our eoiufort, nii«l imdci'- 
 took the treatinoiit of the injiired feet, wliicli, imtil 
 striiifj;, he would not hehevi' wen" trost-l)itt(ii He 
 applieil a ])oultice math' of the iuiicr hark ol tlio 
 hirch tir, which was a great n-hef, VVi; rttuaiiicd 
 two days here to rey)ose the crew, and exporu iiicd 
 inneh kindness and liospitahty from Mr. Mar Ucaih 
 and liis aniiahh^ lady, lie fnniislicd me with lun 
 Indians as gni(h's, and to assist in ascendinj.'- thi 
 river to Fori Nonnan, had moeassnis mach' foi' the 
 party, and lent me liis tent, wliieh pnwed of <rrr;if 
 vjdue in our hitherto unprovitU'd eomhtion. '[%) 
 remainthr of the journey to Fort iNocman was 
 aeeom])lished with much more ease and comfort than 
 the foregoing. The two Indian hids W(vre of givai 
 assistance in tracking, thougli, as guides, httic dc- 
 pendent could be placed in them A small lapid 
 was surmo\mted soon aft(T (putting ¥ort (Jood Hope; 
 and on the 1st October a larger one, called ('( nt 
 Sous," after an Indian of that name, who w;is, I 
 lu'lieve, drowned there in his canoe. Mr Pnlloi lind 
 at Fort Good Ho[)e exclianged the 'Logan" ('m a 
 lai'ger boat, in which to continue his journey ; and I 
 had the woe unutterable of seeing my god-child and 
 
.ti 
 
 HKAH lUVKR. 
 
 283 
 
 I'avourilc loaded to tlu gunwale willi lish, which 
 (!\hak'd any otlier tlian ph-asing odoui's, being, in 
 tact, tish very much out of water. 
 
 Th(! month of Hear llivei, whieli is tlie outlet to 
 Ijenr Lake, and whose (jrystal waters contrasted 
 strongly with the turhid stream of tlit Mackenzie, 
 was passed on the nth ; also, an hour or two later, 
 some remarkable burning banks, which sent up 
 numerous columns of smoke, but at ])resent emitted 
 no flame. The morning of the (ith was biitt-i'ly cold ; 
 ji piercing wind dulled us throughout, and frost 
 gathered on our hair and beards. We reached Fort 
 
 eceived by 
 
 N 
 
 ab 
 
 kindb 
 
 noon, and we 
 Mr. 11. I'., Mac Kenzie, the geutleniau in cliarge ot 
 the post, to whom I made known the reasons of our 
 visit. From him I learned that Mr. Pnlleu had safely 
 arriv(ul here about a iVjrtiiight since, and proceeded 
 onwards with his party to Fort Simpson, tluj head- 
 (piarters of the district, where \\v would be accom- 
 modated for the winter. 
 
 Two days after oiu* arrival here, tin guides who 
 ha»l escorted Mr. Pullcn to Fort Simpson, tou'^hed on 
 their return ; and I learnt that he had remained there 
 with two men only, the rest of his |)arty being 
 despatched to a tishing-statio-i, on Great Sla\'e Lake, 
 whert! they would winter. Although it was not correct 
 
!S.l 
 
 roKT NOIIMAN, 
 
 I. 
 
 that then' uns iuiipl< niiiiiifiMmii»r lor '• v paily nt 
 l''urt Ndriiiaii (luriiij^ (lie xkintci-, I (l<'('i(li(l, tor vari«Mis 
 reasons, of nliicli tlio lah lU'ss nt' the scnsoii wa.s the 
 most proiiiiiu'iif, on proceeding no t'ai*tln;r miiIiI tin 
 sjning, a I round llial Ucar l^akc would utlord oiv 
 piU'ty tilt' sanir sid»sist(MU'<' as tlu y would liavr on 
 tlic ^Jivat 8lavr Liiki' On Icanuii;,^ my rvsoUc, 
 Mr Miic ktii/ir kindlv assish-d to I lie ho.sl ot' lu*^ 
 power I!) rcndcriiifx om* sojoni'i ns conirort.iMr as 
 mi^dil Itf. \M- wen' supplied with .idditional hlaukets, 
 wliicli had now become. Iii^hly fiece.ssary. and sundry 
 other articles of vveurinL' aj)parel, of w hich all stood 
 nnuh in need My condition w;is as litilc en\ialilf 
 as tliat of the otju-rs, as I (piitted the ' I'l(»\ei'' ni 
 the cxpirtation of Ijcin^j; absent al)oiit m luontli eiiily, 
 and liad not, llaretore, provided a varied wardiuhc 
 nor many other conNtMiicnct's, 
 
 iJuring more than a moiulis stay at I'Wt Xorniiiii, 
 Hindered necessary by the state of the ici', wincli 
 prevented the joiirnoy to Hear Lake, not much ol 
 incident oci-urred. The seamen, nnacciistonied to tht 
 peculiar fu'e >>{' tliis re^non, jiiade many wrv faces 
 when i)resi'nted. a-! a treat, with the carcase of Ji 
 beaver. One e\j)ressed his very strong con\ietion 
 that a I'at would be prel"era])le, and various oilier 
 facetious remarks were made. These olijections were 
 
 I 
 
"V parly iii 
 
 tor \'iiri(Mis 
 ;ori na.i tin- 
 ;r until ih, 
 
 illlord my 
 Id him 1)11 
 
 iiy I'ooUc^ 
 
 l)0,St of ills 
 
 il'ort.ililc iis 
 111 Maiikots. 
 aiuJ siiiulry 
 li all stood 
 l<' ('iiviiil)i(' 
 I'lovc," ,„ 
 iKmth only, 
 i wardiuhi- 
 
 I'f Norman, 
 
 ici', vviiicli 
 
 1 nincli (i| 
 
 mu'd to I In 
 
 uiv fai't's 
 ircasc of ;i 
 
 conMction 
 rioiis other 
 .'tious were 
 
 ; 
 
 IIDSIMTAl.lTY OK MU. M \( K KN'/I K. 
 
 sJH5 
 
 rmT'v TfitlHT imrrnsoTinldt', fur iMiivor nicjit is ((morully 
 csh'tMned II delicacy, tlionj^di posscssiiifr a peculiar 
 flav<Mir. i, at any rate, allowed myself tio such foolish 
 jjnuliiis. rousidermg it prefenilile lo my repasts of seal 
 and wlialc-flcsli aiiiou^ tlie Tiiski. 
 
 I'Vost liad nou set, ill nerinaiieiiflv, niid ice com- 
 nicne<'d to drift in tUr Mackeii/u^ loMards the end of 
 the iiiontli, increasing day by dav, and luhMc tiic 1st 
 of Novemlier all hut the inani channel had fro/en up. 
 \V»' had little now to amuse or enliven, unless ii was 
 creattjd 1»\ ourselves. Fortnualel) a jj;ieat trcn-airc 
 was ours in tin- ainusctmcni afl'ordt^d by a very good 
 violin iM'longing to Mr, Mac Kcnzic ; and we were 
 thus eiiuhled to have many a merry dance. N'or were 
 the pleasures of couversation altogether unprotitahjc. 
 I never ined of askmg (juestions res})ectmg the 
 comitry and tribes we had newly ('Uteicd upon, and 
 gained miwh inforniiitiou from the intelligiMit g<'ulle- 
 nian with whom I was located, Rich was he ni stoie 
 of Indian legends., and no niggard m imparting Ins 
 knowledge. 
 
 'I'he following is one among the nuuiy tales vvith 
 which he whded away the wi'ar\ moments I have 
 made a few slight alterations from ins r<'\t. which was 
 given as narrated l)y the Salteaii.\ tribe of Indians, in 
 communication with whom Mr. Mae Ken/ie passed 
 
 i 
 
28fi 
 
 INDIAN LE(iENI) 
 
 
 I 
 
 ' 1 i 
 
 i i 
 
 
 i ^ 
 
 I J ^}i 
 
 much of his early life. The vague veil of legencbu y 
 lore has Itoeu thrown over stories of this kind, ,)nd 
 much allovi'.'mce should be made for tlie siujpk' nauire 
 of tiio Indiau, who does not believe all implicitlv; bm 
 apparently likes to have a reason for everything ; and 
 where hi.s knovvledgc ends, calls ui the marvellous tu 
 his aid. 
 
 THE INDIAN I-EOEND OF TITE DELUJE AND SUliSRcillRNT 
 REI'IIOUIJCTION OF THE flNIVERSE. 
 
 Onee upon a time lived Indians, among nhoiu 
 dwelt Wis-kay-tchaeh, a great medicine man. With 
 them were also a AVolf and his two sons, who, ni the 
 early state of nature supposed to he iilhuhid to, Men 
 on a footing of iniimaey with innnau bipi.'ds. liulct'd, 
 Wis-kay-tchaeh called the old wolf his broihei", und 
 tlu^ young ones his nephews ; for he rei^otrniscil ,ill 
 animals as his relations. In the winter riincilii whole 
 party began to starve ; and, for the purpose of seekjiio' 
 food, tlv parent wolf announced his inleiition * I' 
 separating from the band with his chihhvn, njxiji 
 which Wis volnntcered his company. Off' they sti 
 accordingly, and shortly came upon the hack "I a 
 moose. " J lore let you and 1 halt and smoki," siiys 
 the old Wolf, " while my sons jxirsiu^ and cat( i) tlic 
 moose." After a thiie, the young ones not returmn^^ 
 
OF THE DELUGE. 
 
 287 
 
 I'M 
 
 >f legendary 
 is kind, find 
 iiij])U' nauiro 
 ipliciliv; l>u! 
 ytliing ; and 
 iiarvolloLis to 
 
 E. 
 
 mong ulioui 
 man. With 
 
 who, Hi tlir 
 \cd to, MCIV 
 Is. Jtidct.'d, 
 broilu'i', ;in(! 
 icognisfil all 
 nc iht uht)|c 
 se of scckiiio- 
 iulcution (t 
 ihlfcn, iiiHDi 
 )ff' tliey si'i 
 ■ (rack •'!' a 
 iinokc," ,sa}.> 
 d cat* b the 
 jt roturnuig, 
 
 f 
 
 Wis and Wolf set off after them, and presently 
 found blood U])on the snow, by which they knew that 
 the moose was killed. Soon th(>y reaehed tlic \oinig 
 Avolves; l)ut no moo'^e was to be seen, the cubs lying 
 jmntnig foj- breath with distended stomachs, for they 
 had eaten uj) the Avliole moose. 
 
 They told Wis to make a fire, but be wanted 
 to know why he shoidd ilo this, as thcjy had eaten all. 
 "Never mind," said tliey ; "make a tire," which he 
 at last proceeded t( do ; and, on returning to tlieni, 
 found the whole of th(^ moose restored, and already 
 quartered and cut up. The young fellows divuled 
 tlie spoil into four portions , i>ut one retaim;d the 
 tongue, and (he other the inoutHe,* wlncdiare the chief 
 delicacies of the animal. Wis was not pleased at 
 this, and grumble<i greatl\ . und when they had W(?ll 
 teased hiuj, whicli. was why ihey withheld thest;; parts, 
 they gave them n(> to tlu- gouj-mand. Befon' long, 
 the provision was exhausted, njjon ^\ Inch one ot the 
 voung wolves said he was goinp,- to make marrow-fat, 
 whicl) is (h)ne by l>reaking up the bones w^ry small, 
 and boiling tluMu for a consideiable time, wluu they 
 yield a very pure and rich fat, pinifcrable \o any other, 
 lie told the rest to lie clown, and not to kjok at his 
 
 * Tlie iippov lip, or moufBe of this auiraal ii? elongated and cartilri^nous ; 
 it will boil dowu iuto a perfect jilly, and is dceervudly much prized as a 
 delicaoy. 
 
 11 
 
 n 
 
288 
 
 INDIAN i;K(iE\l> 
 
 ,1 .■ :; 
 
 
 i i 
 
 
 ■\ . :^r 
 
 . I 
 
 proceedings, lest a boiie slun\ld fly in tlieir eyes. 
 They (lid so ; l>ut Wis presently g<'ts curions, 
 lakes a sly look, and sees the extractor of faf 
 chuniping \\\> the hones in his teeth, aii'', as fore- 
 warned, a fragaKMit fiies out and strikes him in 
 the eve, which makes him roar lustily. " Servr voii 
 
 (■ fc' t' 
 
 right ! " says the Wolf, " Von were looking." Wis 
 protested against tlie accusation ; but was ncvvi-. 
 theless obliged to j)nt- »i|» with his luisforruiie. 
 When tlu' other had tii/ished, Wis says it is liis tin-ii . 
 and, as V)efove, warns the others not to look if,- 
 ponnds away vigoronsly at the l)ones, and picsciiiK 
 throws one at the yonng wolf which had [iiniislicd 
 him. " Aha ! " savs he : " you were loolang. " ' Nd," 
 Navis the hrotht!!' fub ; "it was I who was lookmo;. 
 and saw yon throw the bone at my brother: " \\\)u\\ 
 which they all langhed heartily ai Wis, who was cau^nit 
 ont in his tricks. This n'source heing exhansttd. thry 
 again began to starve, and agreed to scparale : liw 
 old VN'olf going oti' with f»ne of his sons, leavuii> \Vi,>^ 
 and nie otlier to hunt together, as they wonM hv ilus 
 arrangement have more chance h)r game. 
 
 We now lose sight of th(> old \\ olf, ;nid eontHiiic 
 with Wis and his nephew The latter kill.-; ,i lew (ircr, 
 un«! hnngs them home m his stomach. disii;nigiiiy 
 them as before npoi) arrival, but at last infoiiti> lii> 
 
! 
 
 • 
 
 OF TflU UV.hVGE. 
 
 289 
 
 uncle lliat he cannot catch nny more, whereupon 
 Wis sits up all night making niedicincj or conjuring. 
 In the morjiing ho tells liis »ioi)1icav to go a-hunting ; 
 but t ' be careful that at every valley, or the least 
 liuiJow plac(; he has to pass, he must throw a stick 
 over before jumping it himself, or else some evil will 
 certjunly beta! Iiim. Away goes the hunter ,, espies 
 and pursues u deer, taking care to ft)|]ow his ancle'? 
 dire(;tions. JJnt, alas ! when just up with his prey, a 
 small hollow intervcnies, which h( thinks he can jump 
 easily; and, attempting it \utliom tho usual pre- 
 caution, goes plump into a river, tmd is thei'e killed 
 and devimred by water-lynxes,* After long waiting for 
 his nephew, Wis set off in search of him, and coming 
 fo the spot whence he had jumped, guessed that he 
 had neglected his warm'ng, and fallen mto the stream, 
 Tie observed, on a tree n(;ar, a kmg-tisher staring 
 fixxnlly into the water, and asked him what he was 
 lookhig at so ejunestly. The; king-fisher re[)lies that 
 he is looking at the skin of Wis-kay-tchach's m^pliew, 
 wlach serves as a door-mat to the dwelhng of the water- 
 lynxes, those animals having devoured him. Wis 
 calls the bird to him, and l)egins t() cond> its head, 
 and put a ruif about its neck to make a (jueuc; for it ; 
 
 ^ My inforixiant did nut kjiow what animals vrcvc. tueiinl by these 
 " wiilDr-lynvea," but conjectured them to be of tabled origin, created by 
 tlio mention of Hfiais, which few of tlio Indians evor see 
 
 u 
 
21M) 
 
 INDIAN LFCKNii 
 
 r ( 
 
 !i : , 
 
 1 ! 
 
 (l I 
 
 l)tit the bird fli;w away before this wns tinislicd, /n/tic/i 
 ac'OvntH for khii/ -fuckers noti:: havlny onh/ a portidr/ of it 
 at th(.' back of their heads. The bird wotihl luit retiifii, 
 but tells him that tlie water-lynxes ol'tt:ii go 01:1 shoru 
 to lie on the sand ; and tluit to be reviiiiged, lie, must 
 make himselt' into a stiiin{) near, but take vnvv tluii 
 lie is not ]nilled down by frogs and snnkes, vvliieh tiic 
 lynxes will Ix; sure to send to t)y and dislodge him. 
 Upon this infornialioii lie returns to his caMi[), ;md 
 "makes big niediciiic ; " and providvs all things 
 whieli will be needed, of whieh a lan/f I'duoc, to liuM 
 all the animals that eanjiot swim, is the |)riii(M]>al. 
 
 Before daylight, having eomj)leted his i))'epaiatJons, 
 and en (barked all the before-mention-Hl passengers, 
 ho proeeeds to the neighbourhood of the lynxes, and 
 seeares his boat behhid a point of land lluii 
 transforms himself into a stump, and awan.> I heir 
 apj)earane(; i^resen.ly the blaek one eomes out ami 
 lies down npoii the sand, then tlie grey, and histly, 
 the white one which had killed the young wolf, pops 
 its hend out of the water; but esjnes the stump, und 
 cries out to his brethren that he ' n^ver >a\v ili;it 
 i)elbre." They carelessly replied that it miisi jilwfiys 
 have been there ; but \\\v v^ry one still dislrusleil, 
 and sent frogs and snakes to tr\ and pull it Inwn. 
 \\ is had a M'vere struggle to keep himself upright , 
 
i ; t 
 
 or THE DELKiE. 
 
 2J)1 
 
 hnt fiurvivcd the trml, aiirl the wliit,' jynx. Itoiiig tiovv 
 satisfied, Inys itselt down upon flic snnd to reposo. Wis 
 waits fi short time ; tlieii, tosiiiiiing his nutiiral shape, 
 takes his spear and creeps softly up to tlic wlnU'. 
 lynx. We had been wavntd hy hi?, featJiertvl monitor 
 to strike at the shadow of the annual, o» he would 
 assuredly fail m liis aim . hnl his eagerness makes 
 Inm forget, this injmietion, and he strikes full at 
 the animal and misses him, Tlif er.'atures rush, to 
 the woter ; but Wis has yet another ehanee, and 
 aiming again, and now nt the sliadovv, desperately 
 womids the beast, wliich, howevei', e.«>eapes with the 
 rest into the river. Instantly riie water biggins to boii 
 and rise, and Wis makes for his boat as fast as he 
 can. The wa^er continued Howmg, flowing, until 
 land., triHis, and hills wen^ all covered. Wis having 
 befoie taken care of all creatures which could not 
 swim at all, now busied himself j)icking up those 
 whir'h were able to swim for a short time 
 
 On Ins conjuring night everything had betMi pre- 
 pared for the reproduction nf the enrth, with one all- 
 im]iortant exception ; it was necessary to have a small 
 portion of earth to t'orm, as it vvi re, a nucleus for the 
 new land , and this he set about obtaining. Tying a 
 string to th(! leg of a loon, lu; ordered it to try for 
 soumlings, and to persev«.-re in its descent, even if it 
 
 u 2 
 
202 
 
 INDIAM I,K<!KN1) 
 
 i: I' ■, \'; 
 
 I i 
 
 •I,: 
 
 • ' 
 
 should die, tor tlint was of no couscMjUtiice. as Uv 
 could soon restore it to 'Jle. J.)owii goes tlie diver, 
 and prosoutly the slrinj^ was not jerked any iiiorti ; s(. 
 Wis pulls up antl linds tlie bird dead: he hhjws Ujxn. 
 and brings it l)ack to liic, and is told tliat tlie hottoni 
 was not reached Next he sends an otter, whu h i« 
 drawn up ni the same Jjliglit, and similarly revivi d, 
 and whose success is no better than that of the lonn. 
 Now he sends a l)eav<T, which, upon l>enig rciiiis- 
 citated, reports tluit it saw the toj)s of the tr(;ev',, hut, 
 could not suik any dc^eper. Last of all, Wi?, ti"s a 
 largo stone to a nnisipiash, and i)uts them over ; down 
 goes the rat, and presently the string is slaekene-l , 
 Wis hauls up, and hods the little ereainre dead, hut 
 holding a small (juaiitily of earth in its tmy paws. 
 He revives the messenger and s|)reads the earth oiii i(, 
 dry, after which lie blows upon it until it swells and 
 s[m;ads imtil it is \cry big. When he thought it laiyc 
 enough, a wolf was sent out to try its extent , Imt lit; 
 soon retiu'iu'd, >a\ ing that the woi'ld was not large, 
 whereupon Wis blew a^ay agam for a long linn' , 
 then despatched a crow, and as the bird did not 
 rcturn^ Wis eonelnded that the world was now hum; 
 enough for itil, and with the animals, (piits the cini'X'. 
 All disperse, and Wis in his travels nu'(>ts a toad, 
 which smgs as it go(\s, " Nce-sliay-woo-shin " (or 
 
M 
 
 OF THE 1)E1.U(JE. 
 
 2'J3 
 
 \ . 
 
 ce, as In- 
 the (liver, 
 more ; s(. 
 luvv's upon 
 lie bottom 
 , mIik h ij( 
 y rcvivnl 
 tho lomi. 
 
 trech, but 
 
 ^\'\>, ti-'s a 
 
 X'l" . (IfiAVti 
 
 dackened ; 
 (k'lul, i)nt 
 iny piiws, 
 irtli oiii t(^ 
 'Wells ;ukI 
 lit it larg(? 
 t , l.iU hti 
 not lai'iJ^e, 
 )iiu tiim- , 
 (i (IkI not 
 now Ifiriio 
 the cimoe. 
 (s a to.'ul, 
 sliii) ' (or 
 
 - 
 
 "I rattle"). "AVhat is that you suig?" asks 
 Wis-kay-tt'liach. " I sing that I rattle," answers tlie 
 toad. *' And what do you sing tor?" returns Wis. 
 " You must know," repHes the toad, " that T am a 
 Great Medicine, and am now going to extract the 
 l)arb with which that had man, Wis-kay-tchach, 
 wounded my grandson, the water -lynx." Wis knocks 
 the C.ireat Medicine on th(! heful, and skinning him, 
 assumes the disguise; then trots otV to the dweUing 
 of the water-lynxes, where he is cordially welcomed by 
 the two unwouuded brothers, and conducted to liis 
 victim. He sends the others out of the sick chamber, 
 as he must " make very strong medicine," which 
 their presence will distur!) ; th(^y accordingly depart, 
 and W^is proceeds to push the spear-heail farther hito, 
 instead of drawing it out of the wound. Having 
 thus killed liis patient, he retii'cs, and tells the 
 lu'others that they must on no account disturb their 
 sick relation, as the medicine must have power until 
 the morrow, and so lie departs, throwing off the 
 disguise when out of sight. 
 
 Not long after this period Wis-kay-tchaeh meets an 
 old woman, who is peeling willows (to make nets with 
 the bark), and crying desperately. He asks wh she 
 laments, and the ancient dame replies that she mourns 
 for her son the water-lynx, which that cruel wretch 
 
'Z\il 
 
 INDIAN LEOKNU 
 
 I. !■ 
 
 I . 
 
 Wis-kuy-tcluicli lias murdered ; and rluit tliey arc 
 about to bury hiiu near, and tlieii ahandou tlie [Amw 
 Wis serv(;s the old lady as lit! did the toad, 
 of " bi«^ medicine " profession, assuuK's her ilress 
 and occujjation of collecting 'villo* ai'k, and howls 
 away far lou(U;r and more dismally than she did, and 
 in this way i"(?tiu'ns to the lodge, where, with the 
 brothers' aid, tlie corpse was placed upon a stage 
 prepared for it; and the tictitious mother tells thr, 
 rest to proceed on their journey, as she must remain 
 to weep, but will presently follow them. So soon as 
 tliev are out of sight V\ is sets to work to "make 
 grease " from the carcase ; but the sons become tu'ed 
 of waiting, and send l)ack snakes (wliicli a[)pear Xo 
 have been theii' slav(;s) to look for their mother. 
 When they reach Wis he gives them some of the 
 grease Avhich he has made, and bids them return with 
 it to ihe brothers, who thereupon see that they have 
 l)een tricked by Wis-kjty-tchach, and return to eatcli 
 and punish him. Being hard pressed, and meeting 
 with a bjjdger, he entreats it to dig a hole in the 
 ground by vJiich he may escape; and promises to 
 gi\e one of tiic bladders of grease with which he is 
 now laden as a reward. The badger digs accordingly ; 
 and they come up through the ground at a distance 
 horn their ])ursuers ; but when the annual claims its 
 
 r ■ 
 
 
OF TUli, DFI.dfJE. 
 
 
 • ! ! 
 
 tliey arc 
 
 the pluco. 
 
 the tojul, 
 
 her thvss 
 
 and howls 
 
 e dill, iiiul 
 
 , \vitli the 
 
 )n }i stjigc 
 
 r lulls the, 
 
 list remain 
 
 Jo soon as 
 
 to " make 
 
 coiiH' tn-ud 
 
 appear to 
 
 ir mot her. 
 
 mi; of the 
 
 eturn with 
 
 tiiey iuive 
 
 '11 to eateli 
 
 d nKX'tinnr 
 
 ole in the 
 
 •omises to 
 
 iiieh he is 
 
 cordingly ; 
 
 a distance 
 
 claims its 
 
 lee, Wis says ii may Msid'-r itseU' very lucky that lie 
 did noi kill il while j)assnig underground. All the 
 bladders are now emptied into a hollow, and lonn a 
 large lake, in vshicliAVis invites all the annuals to 
 romc and sA\ua, that they may gather fat . tlu rahhit 
 and partridgr, coiuplain, alter their unctuous bath, 
 that they liavt.' gathered too rnich fat, so Wis cleans 
 it from them by running his hand over thcni , f/nri 
 tills /.\ l/ir: rt'OMon irlif/ (lie ratj/tif km xo Idlh: fnt iipnu 
 flic H/iiit'ldcry anii hr imrtrhlij< a .^mall iinanl'ilij nhoul 
 (he (ail 
 
 Although the ftjregoing and otlier legends are so 
 childish, they should. i'evertheU>s be presented, as 
 indications ol." the sini[)le nature and primitive icJeas of 
 the Indian racfv Sucli stories are recounted in a 
 monotonous sing-song t(» the assembled members of a 
 lodge, and their rejx'tition never tires. The Tndiau 
 s(^!dom or never laugiis boistei'ously, appreciation of 
 the passages considered the most aimising is mark(;;d 
 by a low grunt of approval ; and this is particularly 
 the case wliere the hero of their tales, which 
 Mr. Wis-kay-tcha(;h most frecp^ently repre.seuts, has 
 [iractised or suffered from some act ot duphcitv ; these 
 apjiear to tickle the listeners mightily. 
 
f J 
 
 ciiArTi-:!? will 
 
 (jnHti-ouoiiiy.— Ilivor Im. — T^•u|lp^ll^;.- Stiit for Oioiit Bear l,ako.— Crohs 
 tliH M.ickoii/in on tho Ice. Fcillii-')^ troec to cnoanip. - lliilsiug tbo 
 Wind. Fi'iictri<t(! ilouMo Furwto. - Cnm,-' Liikcn ■■ -(Vanhonii-s, .^c.- 
 Indian Hut. ■Suluioii Trout —Siiniiiiary fji^ctniciit. — Slavo ludiaiw 
 
 --(udiiii! hivurco- Suliiu'i; "SVivtih. Ciumibnl Ht.(|iuuiitaiict> ■ ^'n ', 
 
 Friukliii'a Hut. -l)ioa(ifu! Wfarvatioii. - Kaliiig an Orkucj iiiiin nm 
 Uiit. — An iiiry nituation. -Ofcapioii.il Honsr unrDuai!;. --L'ts of 'in • 
 Fish an'l (isli wuli It. -.Swunc 'J'ca— Aurora. — i.inerary lUslitution •■- 
 Novel bnrial oJ'a hrotborin-law. 
 
 Oi'K diet, siuco rc.'jcluiig tJic, Mackci)/u\ \va.-> iii 
 strrmjje «;uiitrast to Eiij;lisli fare, or that, |)riii('i|)allv of 
 pi't;i?f;rve(l n » its, tovvhicli wt had licen accusloiiit'd m 
 the "IMovcr.'' Drii'd ivindoor or tlk-dcsh, \vlih;i» 
 required vi<:;orous iiiast.i(;atJ(M», and made the j.iw- 
 ache upuce ; iresh j^oat, lujar, and l»(a\(r-iiieat oi.cu- 
 sionally ; ami (hiring the latter part of our '^tay ai 
 Fort 'Norman, meat eoidd only be fiiniished two da)>. 
 lit the week, with iish tlic otiier five; and as the 
 latter was (.'a])turrd at liear Lake in the suinnier and 
 fa]], and remanied di,seiubo\\ellt;d and mtaet until 
 used, it WIS ill various staj.^es of cvd'Heiice,, varyinii^ 
 from the ^liglitiy-lauited to the absolutely .>iinkni<i. 
 
Lake— Cr'iKH 
 
 unii's, .<H'.- 
 avo liuliiui,^ 
 
 IIICU ■ '^U ', 
 
 J lidiii- tiiji 
 ,'>t8 of 'in.- 
 :tst,ittition.— 
 
 l|Hlllv 1)1 
 iti<lJiC«l III 
 
 1, nliicli 
 
 he |;IM -; 
 
 fat 0(,(:u- 
 
 r stay at 
 (Wo (liiys 
 
 (I us tin' 
 IJIHT illKi 
 
 ict. imtil 
 , varyuig 
 .^iiiikiiiu 
 
 UASI'ROS* ^^ 
 
 Hilt fis tluTO WHS notliing cIko, vvl- inn io\\ to , f it; 
 
 :iii(l afkir all wort' no uoiv ofV than i. u'liu, who 
 
 c'stociiK'd asutbtida n (h licucy when mixed with their 
 tuod, except tliat tlioy fared thus from mchiiatioii, 
 we from necessily ; and this is the, ease at many of 
 the posts ill tlic JIikIsod'h Hay territory, where meat 
 is not ahiindaiit. b'kiiir, bread, and siieh hke, seem 
 to be considered matters of extreme luxury ; a ))ag of 
 flour is the entire allowauee to some of the olheers j 
 but this proceeds mainly, i imagine, from tlie ditlicidly 
 of tj'anspoit throngh so wild a couutr\ and great 
 distance. I lived with Mr. Mac Ivenzie wiiile lure, 
 and fared as lie did. We had two meals a dav ; one 
 between nine and ten, the other about six, Our l)ill 
 of fare vA'as tolerably unvaryino;. dry meat boiled, v>\' 
 fish roasl(H.I with the scales on, which, from want of 
 custom J suppose, -1 found disagreeable when tliey 
 got in my mouth \ tea, either black or green, as the 
 packet might luippen to be ; sugar, and occasionally u 
 water })ancake or fritter ; — but these were " like 
 angels' visits," and appreciated accordingly. At first, 
 [ sadly missed a bit of bread ; but habit reconciles oiu,' 
 to eviyrything. For all this, there were occ.isional 
 delicacies. Reindeers" tongues we often tasted ; I 
 iu!ed not remark upon their excellence ; also bea\'er 
 and bear's meat, which are fat, — tlie tail of the former 
 
 
 :» 
 
 i 
 
298 
 
 IIIVER-I('F„ 
 
 cntiivly so, and, on tirsl acnuaintmicc, ratlu'r too luli 
 tor (ligt'stion. 
 
 When tlio ice; luu! so rmicli increased in tlie river 
 as to l)ep;iij to erowd upon the shores, alon<^- wiiich 
 ran a solid ed{j;e, we, who wero luuieenstomed to the, 
 sight, had inneh interest in watching its conrse. Tlic 
 current was very strong, and the sludge was turned 
 up ItetwcuMi the moving and fixed cdgt's, precisely as 
 a furrow is turned Uy the plough, while a kind ^^{ 
 hissing roar, c(nitinuous and sidxlued, proved the, 
 resistance exerted. When the increasing drift rv- 
 tarded the current, the water rose considerably, and a 
 second crust of ice formed on the shore ledges, and 
 deceived the unwary when venturuig upon it, liiiiig 
 too weak to bear the feet, although snow-shoes, 
 whi(;h end trace a larger surface, will sonieiinies 
 enable one to pass on it. As these station^ of the 
 Hudson's Hay Com])any fire estabhshed for the sole 
 pur|)ose of obtaining furs, — witness its motto, "Pro 
 pelle cntein," — no means to that end are neglected. 
 Mr. Mac Ken/ie had three or four traps set, which I 
 often used to visit, and will tell my fortiuie on one 
 of these occasions. Finding the trap had gone from 
 its place, 1 had little trouble in discovering tlie 
 dir<!ction of its migi'atiou the trail was too well 
 marked to permit of error, for frozen gouts of blood 
 
I' too ru'li 
 
 I tlic i'i\cr 
 n\^ wliicli 
 mI to Ihr- 
 rse. Tlu: 
 us turned 
 roL'isi'ly as 
 a kind of 
 irovcd tlu! 
 5 (Iril'l ri'- 
 lI)Iv, and a 
 cdirus, and 
 1 It, licnig 
 low-shots, 
 sonu'iuncs 
 UL> ol' the 
 r the solt> 
 )ttt), " Pro 
 ncglerU'd. 
 A, wlucli I 
 n(? on oiu' 
 ^ont; Iron I 
 'eriiig the 
 too well 
 s of blood 
 
 TH.Vl'lMNO 
 
 iiOO 
 
 and zigzapf linos maih^ by the sharj> edjros of the iroji, 
 stdhed the snow. The track led ri^d»t aentss tht! 
 frozen branch of the river; arrivmj; on the o|)])osit(! 
 I)ank of \A\ich 1 found a fo\ eaiij,dit bv (lie paw in 
 tlu; trap, wliieli was now entaii<;U:d in the un<.U'r\voo(b 
 Tlu; poor little creature's eyes glared with its nj:?ony ; 
 it was biting: at the branches around, and stm^'triing 
 <les])erately ; iiuleed, it wonUl jjiobably have so ai 
 escaped with the h)S8 of its foot, which held oi'l . 
 
 sinew, the bone behig broken, aufl all ehn' cut liirri ■ 
 by the slujr]) edges of the vice-like trii]), nnic' 
 rat-trap or gin, Init without teetli, which u luid 
 dragged, as 1 estimated, about a quarter of a mile. 
 The sight was sickening, and I hastened to put it out 
 of its misery, but broke my first stick, ami had to get 
 one heavier to accomplish the task ; sure am 1 that 
 few foir ones who now wear muff and tijipot coidd 
 resvuue them without a pang, had they witnessed the 
 torture of this poor aninud. 
 
 The ice hi the Mackenzie " set ftist " permanently 
 on the 12th of November, and two days afterwards, 
 four men of my party — the ice-master being left 
 behind on account of his frost-l)itten feet — three of 
 the Company's, two Indians, and myself, started for 
 our intended quarters on Great Uear Lake. The men 
 of the Company hail eacli charge of a sledge and 
 
',: ! 
 
 800 
 
 TllK CAMP. 
 
 i i 
 
 i Tm 
 
 11 
 
 1^ } 
 
 ' «i 
 
 H 
 
 I i 
 
 three dogs, laden with 200 pounds of stores and 
 provisions ; the Indians led the way on snow-shoes, 
 and my party — who had not those convenient 
 ap])endages — ^l)rought up the rear. Our road lay 
 first across the frozen river, which required nnicli (;are 
 and toil, for the ice was jumbled up in chaotic 
 confusion, presenting sharp points and edges which 
 hiuii the feet, and many irregular masses projecting 
 twelve or fifteen feet from the surface. After crossing 
 the river, and ascending the steep banks upon the 
 op})Osite side, we entered upon dense woods, and 
 continued until sunset, when a halt was niade foi" the 
 night, and all set about preparing the en(;anipment, 
 A spot was chosen where dead trees abounded, wliich 
 some proceeded to ft;ll, others cleared th<^ snow from 
 a space, using theii* snow-shoes as shovels ; some cut 
 doAvn small pines, of which the brush was laid down 
 to serve as the floor of th(? canijj, and the stems wijrc 
 arranged for shelter at the back and sides ; with our 
 large party, two compartments were necessary, a heap 
 of blazing logs lying between them ; and when all 
 was completed, a very snug, but of course airy, 
 resting-place invited us to repose, which after a hearty 
 supper of pemmican was responded to by all. So 
 long as the big fire blazed away merrily, the cold did 
 not touch one greatly, but by-and-by, when ail were 
 
RMSING TllK WIND. 
 
 301 
 
 ores and 
 )w -shoes, 
 )nvenient 
 road lay 
 uicli care 
 I chaotic 
 ;es which 
 )rojecting 
 r crossing 
 ipon the 
 ods, and 
 k foi" the 
 impment, 
 xl, whici) 
 low from 
 some cut 
 lid down 
 ems were 
 with our 
 y, n Jieap 
 when all 
 irsc airy, 
 r a hearty 
 all So 
 cold did 
 ail were 
 
 wrapped in slnniber, the Hanios gradually decreased, 
 and when 1 awoke be!iundH:d all ou-r, and rnv feet, 
 oil ! so cold ! nought was in the pJaci^ of the red pile 
 1 last looked upon but a few (;alr;ined log ends and a 
 heap of snionldering ashes , so to work I set with a 
 will, carried more logs to Iheir d<;st ruction, collected 
 the burnt ends, r.-ikeil the ashes together, and blew 
 right earnestly nntil a r.iddy blaze I'.ppt-ared , then 
 hea])ing on more logs, lud becoming thoroughly 
 wanned, I once more lay down to sleej), niv com- 
 panions dozing, snoring, growling, and starting, hi 
 liajipy unconsciousness of my proceedings. 
 
 We were up and aloot each diiv about daylight, 
 and encamped, as described, at sunset; our fare was 
 ])emmican uncooked, and although not very enticing 
 in flavour, it is in my opmion the finest and most 
 convenient sustenance one can carry : \\c consumed 
 u])on tlie average about two pounds p(;r day, hiivim'' 
 ■iiMhliip else but ii little cocoa in the morning, jind wo 
 never felt hungry or weak. Oar road lay tlirough 
 dense forests, across numerous iaki-s and one or two 
 small rivers, all now Irozen over and covered with 
 snow , the path is marked \\\ woods l)y " blazing " 
 large trees and bi-eakhig down small ones, and when 
 about to cross lakes, travellers carry branches and 
 tops of small trees and stick them in the snow at 
 
 
 I 
 
302 
 
 SLAVE INDIANS, 
 
 
 i! 
 
 intervals. Wc saw numerous tracks of rahhits, 
 martens, foxes, and otfiiirs, but fe^^ of deer, which do 
 not abound here as oJse\vher(\ J3y digging \mdri t Iit» 
 snow, cranberries wcyv obtained ; and on l)ush('s grew 
 berries of a sharp acid, vvliich were liard frozen, and 
 melted away in the nioutli, contrasting pleasantly witli 
 the seeds of the wild rose, which were sweetness 
 itself. 
 
 This journey occupied six days ; in the evening uj 
 the; 19th we reached om* d«?stnied habitation, wherein 
 were now conifoj'tnbly located an Indian witli lu< 
 wife and family, little expecting, good souls ! such 
 unseasonable intrusion. We supped oti' some delicious 
 salmon-trout caught hi Bear Lake, and were glad ro 
 go to re})ose after our fatiguing trip, 
 
 A few^ days sufficed to settle us into a regular 
 mode of life : two of the (Company's men retm-ned to 
 Fort Norman; the other, with the old Indian, set 
 nets and liooks under the ice in Bear Lake ; our rude 
 hut was thoroughly cleansed, and put to rjght> , and 
 arrangements made for the due performance ot such 
 slight duties as were necessary. Wo(;d had to lu^ 
 cut regularly for fuel ; a hole made, and kcjit open in 
 the ice of the lake for water ; and, more thnn all, the 
 grand duties of the kitchen required nuuih consichirii- 
 tion, for the unity of material needed an exercise of 
 
rahhlts, 
 ?hich do 
 udtr tlic 
 ivh grew 
 /-en. ill It! 
 itly vvitl) 
 
 'cniiig 1)1 
 \v herein 
 vvitli his 
 Is ! siieh 
 delirioiih 
 e gliid to 
 
 rogulni 
 iirned tu 
 lUiin, set 
 our rudf' 
 it> , and 
 
 ot such 
 id to he 
 
 o{)eu III 
 1 fill. Jhe 
 )iisi(h!r:i- 
 ercise of 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 SELLING A WIFK. 
 
 303 
 
 great ingemvity to obtiiin some vnviety. Th.- Indians 
 whom we had lately so iincercruonioiis!v dis|)ossesse(.l 
 of their lialntation, speedily ctni^struetcd a good wintxH- 
 iodii'e at a short distance, and departed thitlirr |»;i" 
 and baggage. It M-as painfid to see the l(jad tin: 
 women were made to earry ; hut it is the cojnmon 
 praetiee, and said to he the reason why the trfhc we 
 were now among are calhid "Slave Indians.' A\ ith 
 them, if a man desire to despoil his neighhonr of his 
 wife, u trial of strength, of a eurions nature, tiisues : 
 they seize each other by the liair, which is woiii long 
 and flowing, and thus stri\(^ for the luastcry, until 
 one or another cries "])eceavi." Should the victor be 
 the envious man, he lias to pay a certain nundiei of 
 skins for the hushand-ehanguig woman, who has 
 h(?rself no voice in the matter, hut is handed over like 
 any othc'r piei.'C of goods, and generally Avith ilie t,ame 
 unconcern. There's a pretty story for you, ladies! 
 How would you like such arrungenients in our land 
 of a queen? The old liulian who assisteil tiio li!«,hiM'- 
 maii Mas too remarkable a character i«i pjiss un- 
 mentioiied. During periods of gi'ueral starvation, 
 which are unfortunately but too IVetjUent in this 
 I'cgion, he had devoured eleven or thin ecu |)erL;ons, 
 among whom (charity begins at home) were, I believe, 
 his parents, one wife, and the chUdi'en of two He 
 
 ! 
 
 ■' 
 
 % 
 
 1 
 
 \ 
 
 ■i ,. 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 ' s ; 
 
 V\\ 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
I ' 
 
 304 
 
 DREADFUL STATK OF STARVATION. 
 
 |J H J' ^ 
 
 had DOW only ono sod loft, a very fino boy, named 
 Rctshi, of AvhoDJ he was doatingly t'otid, find certainly 
 wouhl not l)t' hkely to make a meal of him until all 
 other relations and friends were disposed of. This 
 old fellow was one of Sir J. TVaDklin's Imnters, wfien 
 he wintered here in J 826. I visiti?d the site of his 
 dvi^elling, ainiosi within a stone's throw of our own 
 rude hut ; but a shapeless mass of rvdibish, and a few 
 stones still remainuig of someot the ehinineys, were all 
 to be seen of his resting-place ; and I could not liclp 
 thinking how busy Time had been with both. T'his 
 building must have been large ; the traces of eleven 
 chimneys mark its extent : it was tenanted by about 
 forty i)ersons, ineludmg tlu* people of the North-wesl 
 Fur-trading Clompany. Dr., now Sir John, Richardson, 
 was at first here with Sir ,John Franklin ; but the 
 (j\umtity of fish caught hemg insufficieiit for the 
 maintenaJU'c of all, lie removed with a pfii'ty to a 
 distance ai<;)ng the lake. Theiv resting-point has <wer 
 shicc beiii called Richardis n's Fishery. 
 
 The nuT)d)er of victims to starvation in this country 
 has been vt.^ry great. In 1845 (?) the Company's 
 people at Fort Good Hope were without subsistence, 
 and thi; Indians <lying in crowds. The gentleman in 
 charge of the station at that time heard one night the 
 bh)\vs of the axe m the lodges near the Fort, bv which 
 
 f i 
 
 i ! 
 
lamctl 
 rtaiuly 
 ltd all 
 This 
 , when 
 of lii« 
 ur own 
 d a few 
 were all 
 lot help 
 
 f eleven 
 jy about 
 trth-vvest 
 bard son, 
 )\it the 
 for the 
 y to a 
 uis e.ver 
 
 country 
 OT\}>aTiy's 
 )sisteiice, 
 
 email m 
 night the 
 bv which 
 
 ( ANSdJ ALISM. 
 
 305 
 
 tlie weaker were killed, to he devoured The 
 Expresi^-men, ont; Scotch, the other a native of 
 Orkney, who were proceeding' with lettcu-s l;o the 
 post on the Peel River, wciie met by a party of 
 starving Indians, who stol(> upon them at nigh*, 
 nuirdered and ate them and their provisions, and, as 
 report goes, were in their turn sltmghtered and 
 devoured. 
 
 Tlic commodious residence ir. which \\q were 
 locnted (hiserves description, if only as a new- 
 proof that 
 
 " Man wants but ILttlo horc below." 
 
 It consisted of a solitary apLrtment, twenty by 
 eighteen feet ; was constructed of roughly-hewn pine- 
 logs of large dimensions, the ii'terstices being 
 plastered with mud, which I must renauk, by the 
 by, was the universal substitute for mortar in the 
 iMacken/ie River and adjacent districts. The two 
 casements were formed by tightly--strtffhed sheets of 
 semihicent parchment, which, where imperfect, were 
 repaired with scraps (jf foolscai) ; t]i(> light adniil,v(l 
 thereby was well suited for weak eyes ; the door had 
 been ma(h; of green wood, and its parts had shrunk 
 widely asunder; the openings thus formed were 
 stuH'ed with lynx-skin, which gave it a \»My motlev 
 appearance Th(> roof was Hat, of stii'k.-< mid moss, in 
 
 r ' 
 
 r 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 ' 
 
 ! ^1 ! 
 
 i ' 
 
 u 
 
 i ■ 
 
 l 
 
300 
 
 OUK DOMF.STK \ IU<AN(iKM KM'SS. 
 
 layers , these being very dry, eatight hre three ov loin 
 limes (luring our stnv, Jii\(l caused niueli ironhle, iuid 
 danger of losing our dwelling, which, rough though il 
 was, we should sadly have missed at this season. 
 
 !^ih'^ 
 
 i . . 
 
 |. 
 
 NKW l"Kr H!AM<t.lV 
 
 Nopimpered luxury was evidenced in the natun and 
 arrangement ot the lurnitm'<' one treble, two 
 doubl \ and on<^ single bedstead, of worknuiuslnii 
 curious as elegant, being all the unaided product ol' 
 the axe, st<K)ls of massive condition, each formed 
 from M sinorlc block, and a table, which ever 
 
(iOOD.S \\|l < II \i'|'I.,|,N. 
 
 '.m 
 
 <»i' Ion I 
 
 )lr, ;uul 
 
 louuli it 
 
 season 
 
 
 lUllK Mini 
 l)l(\ two 
 
 knmuslii|i 
 )ro(1in't ot" 
 li forniei! 
 
 perversely (lecliiU'd to ivpose upon nioi-c than two k'r^ 
 ftt a time, and nliose wrinkled old thoe displuyed a 
 ptTpetuul ^lin as il" in mockery at our rfloi'ts. eon.- 
 stituted the major part ol the propertv , the rest of 
 the chattels were fisliiug-nets and lines, hlankets, 
 ancient garments, and a most unique eolleetion of 
 cooking utensils; four tin plates, one tin drinkin" 
 cup, a bonilli tin for the same purpose, a fork, and 
 two spoons of silver, and two of native horn, one of 
 which fi'om its anti(piity might liii\c hehmo-ed to 
 Nebnehaduezzar, two kettles for tish, a eclfei'-pot foj' 
 tea, and two pemniican tnis for piteheis close the 
 catalogue , a tin sjiw, an iiuger, and suiidry aves 
 complete the tah' of our riches and to us uu|)ortuni 
 thev were. 
 
 Of food the variety was not great so far as kind 
 was concerned, ])ut then we made amends for this in 
 the modes of pre|)aration. Tims, althongh we had 
 onlv a species of salmon-trout occasionally, and a kind 
 of lu-rrmg always, we liad l)oiled lish ami roasted tish, 
 dried Hsh and split hsh, snioked fish and cured tish, 
 fish soups, tish cakes, and iisli, iish, Hsh, in every 
 phase we covdd invent, one only excepted, of which 
 \M' had a sutKciency while at Fort > orman, 
 
 Mr. Mac Ivenzie had, froinhi.s scanty ston , presented 
 me with two pounds of tea, and twelve of sugar , these 
 
 \ 2 
 
(; \sri<<»\(>M V. 
 
 su 
 
 PI 
 
 )li(Ml IIS witli a tivat for ti few Sniulays, bui on 
 
 'I 
 
 ':? 
 
 
 their ox|Hn(liturt; we lifxl to Mini to tlic limi)iil wutri's 
 ol' Ik'jii l;ak( to <jiien('li thirst ; and tlioiijjcli tlioy wci'c 
 pure as serapli's tears, and bright as the eyes ot 
 loveliness, we had fair experience of tlie truthful 
 adage, " too much of a good thing," <.Vc. As inav Ix 
 supposed tish and water did not materially condue*' 
 to an increase of health or endurance; our complexions 
 became colourless and transparent, and the t aie ol 
 the digestive organs weakened; one or two of \is 
 were frecjuently at or dnvetly after a meal seized willi 
 an involuntarv nausea, the stomach peremptorily 
 rejecting the offered aliment. There was only one, 
 even distant, substitute for the beverages wo had 
 ever been accustomed to; this was made ])y boiling 
 the plant called Swami) tea. which grows plentifully 
 thronghout North America- -leaves, stalks, and all — 
 in water, and drinking the iitfnsion ; it has a strong 
 hitter taste, liked by few, but it is, I believe, a (ine 
 tonic, and 1 tried to fancy I liked it, possibly because 
 there was nothing i^lse. 
 
 I have purposely avoided m my n:o*racive all 
 scientihc <letails ; and have, therefore, hitherto lett 
 unnoticed the fretpient occurrence of the Anioi;! 
 Rorealis, the most gorgeous as well as mo.<t wonderhil 
 of noitliern, and j)erhaps of any other phenoiuena ; 
 
\L'l<OH\ HOHl'.AMs 
 
 '.m) 
 
 n 
 
 t nic oi 
 
 of lis 
 
 let It not lie iiiiii}j,im(l, m-vcrthcK's.s, (hut llicsc 
 s|>l(!ii(ii(l spcctarlfs were disiv-nrdid , im\ jouniiil 
 ....nniiiuii^iv records their jippcfirimcc, \m\ I shull 
 here only introduce one extract jis it i\jk. oi the. 
 rest ; — 
 
 "On the !)th of Deeeniher> at about .seveji, with 
 a cloudless sky, Aurora appeared. — hrst foruiinu iu 
 au arch froui N.xV.G. to N N,\V.,— bm lutiu-. a!)out 
 nine, dispersed iiuo broken vertical rays, rcn'uscatiu^ 
 towards the zenitii. Eleven v.\i. I have just come iu 
 troni viewing the Aurora, vvluch now presents a 
 gorgeous spectacle , it has shifU'd tVorn its first 
 iwsitions, and now covers the southern half of tlu^ 
 heavens. 
 
 ''Orion ])ears about S.S.W., and on each side of that 
 eoust<>llation to about forty-live degrees, rays are con- 
 verging nearly to the zenith; they are pt-rft^ctly regular 
 iu form and distance, and remind me of the lines of 
 longitu<le upon a globe, like which also they are cut 
 just below the zenith. Around and about them are 
 ,> wreaths and scrolls, lines and curves, masses and 
 skirmishers of the luminous fluid, never still for au 
 instant, but waving, rolling, advancing and retiring, 
 folding ami unfolding, last ami changeful as thought 
 can lly , never twice" the same, but like the fickle 
 kaleulosco])e, ever [nvsentuig sonic new appearanc(\, 
 
.'HO 
 
 Al IIOHA HOUlVI.ls. 
 
 1 > ( . 
 
 I'M 
 
 1 )■ 
 
 l)('!iiitirul Jiucl wondrous as those already socn ami 
 vaiiislicd." 
 
 As the heavy curtain ')f a thoativ is drawn iii) or 
 let down, ao arr; soriio of tlio flying lines expaiuhng 
 and conrractin<>; ineessantly ; others, again, seem 
 mighty breakers, enrling and turning under aiid 
 abonl. There; Avas on(! large mass, a |)evfe('t hiazc of 
 Uoht, whieh -ieemed to be not twenty fc'et above me ; 
 others witli h*ss body appearing far, far avvav On 
 tliis occasion I fancied tliat I hvard the Aurora, and 
 so much was j/dgmcnt niish'd by imagination, tiiat 
 I tliought 1 saw the masses vibrating after contact, 
 when, in fact, the noise I lieai'c] was nuUil)itably 
 produced by the cracking of thii ice on tlie lake, as 1 
 afterwards became assured of. 
 
 (Jn some occasions all the colours of the rainbow 
 were displayed by turns, each visible but for an 
 instant, then succeeded by {mother luie ; vast, 
 irrcgnlar evor-chnngnig fringe-like lines, — at one 
 nKMiient of an exquisite violet, the m^xt of a grass- 
 green tint, — engaged and delighted the eye those 
 above-named were the predominating colours, but all 
 others, in every variety of shade and brilliancy, 
 were evolved. A scene of sublime and awful 
 magnilicence. 
 
 We had little durmg out weary sojourn in (Ins 
 
 \\ ! 
 
f 
 
 WANT (II \MI ^1 Ml SI'S 
 
 :UI 
 
 iiiiH'fnl)!*' lotr-linl, whicli \\;ts ,|,,\\ (.ni lionic, lo 
 i'iili\«'n ni Ixn-iiilc its Icdiiiiii Willi sciiiitv (Invliglit, 
 and iioitluT oil nor raiMlK', the (.iily li^lit uc iiad for 
 lli(> gr atcr portion ol nwh I uciit3.t(>ur hours was 
 that of the lop: lirv uliicli hurncd in inn; corner ol' 
 I lie liovcl \o hooks, not even a ii(\\s|)a)i(M', to read 
 and rc-spcll ovi't. \nd i inanajicd to ohtaiii ink. |iciis, 
 an<l paper, and in aiidition to kc* pmg a \oliinunons 
 joiirnal of all, (o the most tritlinp;, ofcnrrenccs, 
 mstitntcd a school for the seamen, one oi two of 
 whom improved eonsideral)l\ , thoujjfJi latrs was 
 iiti-rallv tile j)iirsuit of lvnowledo;c under diirienlties 
 The prepaiatioii of our meagre fare, cuttinj; and 
 fu'inirniji liom(> fuel, and fetching water from the 
 lake, (I'd not till up a third part of t|i«' tune ; hirds 
 or othef game th(;re were none, with the exception of 
 aii occasional white partridge or ptarmigan tliis 
 period was fherefore, from its lack of occupation, 
 a most dismal one, and any new idea for emjiloyment 
 or amuseincjit wus hailed with delight Tlie old 
 Indian who assist<'d the lishenimn, and was with his 
 
 son domiciled in the 
 
 hut, 
 
 made occHsionaJ trips n\ 
 
 searcli of deer and beaver and to set traps to 
 
 martens, foxes, aiu 
 
 d wol 
 
 vermes 
 
 but I 
 
 us succ(;ss was 
 
 almost uegativi' ; a few martens, a beaver, and one or 
 two rabbits were his onl\ pri/es, 'liougli he was 
 
au 
 
 SI',VK('IT\ (tl lOtil). 
 
 IVt (|iu:iitly s<3Vrrul (Ifi)s jilisfnt with ntilv a sciuity 
 supply ot tboti, and on one otrusion tlKMc wnscpiit- n 
 ilividcMl lioiisi: on the (ptuhtiun whcthrr \iv had killed 
 and t'c'ustfd on Uu; Indian w ho ut'tompanuid him, us 
 hv was acciiHtonu'd to sucli p)oc(.'i;ding>» TJic rtshtr- 
 man t(>Id uu- tlial In: had ouvc \ isitt'd Vort Norinan, 
 at it jHTiod ol starvation, to ^solicit lood , and had, ;if 
 tli(! sanii' time, ilii" hands of his bTOtiier-indaw in Ins 
 •iamc-haji:, havinj^ alroady ftherivise cntomhcd the 
 iiMii nnlcr of his rosptrtcd relation. 
 
 i i 
 
a sciiiitv 
 is(|uit' II 
 \>\ killed 
 I liiiu, us 
 lie tislitr- 
 iNonnmi, 
 (I had, ;if 
 w in his 
 d>cd the 
 
 1 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 C'liriHtinaH fcwtivitiuH.-- Tiirliolid.-— Iiidinn «)X!iggi;ratii)ii.— A vo(;;nliii ilifipcr. 
 -Slfiljjing t.> Foi-t Nortimii. -Starving IiidianK.— Indian Tlicology.— 
 Modiiiue Men.— Vapour IMh. -Heating wator.— A Drone— -iMiniuu- 
 *Aon of iiifiuitifido.— Making; Medinno.- Piillinu a-lioiid. .Sja-iii^' Hft« 
 iu. — VVoodiieolvcrs — Au Indian death.- lUaurn to New V\,vt Franklin. 
 — UavcuouH jjutty larceny.- Primitivo notions.- -Floods. Doit'T llac. 
 
 — Start for I'ort SinipBon • -HydrodynBinin forocH. — lienrB. Iiiflian 
 
 r>auco. — A Talc of Hon'(,)r, 
 
 C'liitiST.MAs [irrivcd, Jind althougli prisoiu-is in so 
 liarbnrous a ])lacc at this season of rejoi(in«r, we did 
 not let it pass over witliout notice. I liaii reserved a 
 few pounds of preserved meats, with one or two otlier 
 relics of hixiiry, and we thenilbre, in coni|)iui.s()n — by 
 which woes and di'lights are ever measured — feasted 
 royally, fjireen ti'a and pemmiean, soup, pjirsnips 
 and beef; belioJd a repast for princes. Ours was 
 (piite a ])icnic — the rugged floor of the den served at 
 once for table and chairs, the place of soup-plates was 
 sup|)licd by preserved-nieat tins, spoons by their tops, 
 whose jagged edges wei"e an exciting novelty, and we 
 were nien-y enough, l)y comparison, again. 
 
;}1 
 
 rAHHUI.IA. 
 
 ■^ 'i 
 
 i I 
 
 I- ! 
 
 1.^' 
 
 I ' 
 
 M-: 
 
 M 
 
 1 ( 
 
 r f 
 
 '11 
 
 Tlie cold was at times very sev(;re ; our l)rcatli, 
 congealing as it passeil the ear, became audible in a 
 sharp whirr, like a small escape of steam, and flannel 
 froze so rigidly that it could be broken asunder like a 
 brittle stick : the inside of our dwelling, particularly 
 at the windows, was encrusted with a thick coatiui: 
 of rime, formed by the congelation of breath and oilier 
 vapour. 
 
 Februaiy was mild even to occasional thaws, and 
 this period was prolific in psirhelia, haloes, &c 
 We saw one such very curious "child of mist " 
 which 1 think worthy of mention. Around the 
 moon was a \ertical halo, slightly flattened on 
 the upper part, of about forty degrees diameter 
 On each side of the moon at the outer edges of 
 the ring was a mock or false moon, tolerably w^(>ll 
 detined, and throwing a ray of light to the eastward. 
 From these (extended a continuous and horizontjil 
 halo at about thirty-five degrees elevation, in parts 
 very bright ; and at W. by S. another mcf-k-moon 
 was |)resentcd in it, also throwing a light to the east- 
 ward, but downwards. The sky was nuich brightened 
 umler the vertical ring; above it was misty, the 
 horizon dear and the w^ind gentle from west. 
 Our old Indian (the man-eater) prognosticated 
 greal eold and strong winds from this appcai'ani'c. 
 
■-i 
 
 INDIAN l',X,\v.OKI< ATION. 
 
 lur. 
 
 I' i)i'catli, 
 lihle in a 
 id flannel 
 ler like a 
 rticularl}' 
 k coatinj^ 
 and otluM- 
 
 laws, and 
 oes, &c 
 of nnst " 
 jund the 
 ened on 
 diameter, 
 edges of 
 ablv well 
 eastward, 
 horizontal 
 , in parts 
 c^'k-nioon 
 ) the east- 
 irightencnl 
 iiisty, the 
 mi west, 
 nostieated 
 ranee. 
 
 There are sevtjnd " artieles of Ix-lief in nioteor- 
 ologieal signs among the Inchans and whites wlui 
 have sojonrnefl long in these regions. For instanee, 
 if Jan; vry be line or cold, IMai'eh may ho looked for 
 as the reverse, and vice versa; if. in dis[)lay of 
 parhelia, the mock-snn is seen to tlie westward of 
 the tnuN or, shonld there he one on (;aeh side, 
 if the western snn hv lasf to fade, l)ail weathei' is 
 sure to ensue 
 
 The Indians have a sad ehiU'aeter IVtr exaggera- 
 tion. Some who pasj:ed onr (piarters on retui'n 
 from Fort Norman brought dolefnl news of death 
 and starvation. — " An Indian man and woman had 
 been frozen to death near Fort Norman ; many were 
 dying of Liarvation, and the i'ort wns full of peoiilu 
 
 dy 
 
 in a like condition. 
 
 peop 
 Fortunately Mr MaeKen/i(; 
 
 had writti'n a note by tlumi which 1 ree(n\ed next 
 day, and found that a few had reaehid Fort Norman 
 without food , :i woman had died fron> extreme old 
 age and two l)oys from sickness, upon which ionnda- 
 tion then" tale had been buih up Thcrr was liltlr 
 danger of starvation either to us or the Indians, wlnle 
 the supply of lish remainetl so plennful, VVe had 
 used four small nets from the end (»f N«>v('mb(!r, 
 and found at I he end of February, rhat nc had 
 eighteen hundretl h.>h ''en cAch"' om- rousuniption. 
 
 n 
 
 |i 
 
 I 
 
 i i 
 
ai(i 
 
 A UKUl'LAH rLlFl'KH. 
 
 I'll' 
 
 h^ 
 
 I 
 
 I : ! 
 
 I I 
 
 I'oj- (h^H and iil] int-lucU'l, Imviiig been about Hfty a day. 
 Two nu;u arriving from Fort Norman for a supply of 
 fr<"sh 'isli, tlioso in store having l)C{'oni : leally t<'f> 
 gamy, 1 rcsolvotl to nTurn with tlieni, being desirous 
 to hear from ]\lr. PuUen to whom i had written by 
 the winter express. With a latent yearning aft<'r 
 dandyism whieh was, it must l)e owned, I'atiui' out 
 of place, I desired to have my hair eut, nud this 
 operation was })erft)rmed by means of a knife and u 
 board, for seiKssors wiM'e wanting ; the result exceediMJ 
 that of parish l)arbers, who elip the eiowns oi 
 eharitv eiuldreii bv eontraet and tiie hundred. On 
 the 2 1st of February, at sunrise, the two men of 
 the Foj-t and myself started t>om "New Fort Franklin' 
 (the title by \a hieh our palatial residence was digni- 
 fied) each driving a dog-sledge laden in all with 
 upwards of si.x hundred tish. After erossuig Heiu- 
 Lake and following the trail into the woods on the 
 op})osite shore, we iiirounlered two Indians who snid 
 that they wen^ starving; we gave a fish to eaeh as 
 a .^tay until they shoidd reach the lake. An hour 
 later we met another whose tale and supply wen- 
 as l)et\»i('. Four or five hours after, we found two 
 women with eacii a couple of children, tiicannxd hy 
 the way^idt ', they al.NO clamorously assaikd \\h lor 
 relief and ivccjved .^oiue lish. 
 
 i^ 
 
:i^' 
 
 IN1>I\N 1!F,1.K;1(>\ 
 
 Ml 
 
 rtyadiiy, 
 ii])ply of 
 
 desirous 
 •ittcu l)v 
 iii^ iift<'i- 
 [itluT out 
 mid thir, 
 fe and ;i 
 cxct'cded 
 rawns oi 
 ^xl. On 
 
 > llU'll of 
 
 Vaiikliii" 
 as iliii'iu- 
 all witli 
 iig Hi>ar 
 Is on the 
 who Siiid 
 ~> each a.s 
 An lionr 
 [)ly wvw 
 )und two 
 in|)i(l l)V 
 (I ii!5 for 
 
 : I'' 
 t 
 
 1 
 
 Great is tlu- aid of snow-slioos : the jonrney whieh 
 in Novend)er oern])ied my j^arty six rlnys was 
 now aeeoruplished easily ni three. I renuuned with 
 Mr MaeKenzie nntd tiie arrive, of the ret nni express 
 men from Fort Simpson, wlio bronght h'tters from 
 Mr. Pnllen and the g<'nt!tnian of the station, hy wliic h 
 we learned all were \v(>ll. My eompaiiion again 
 enhvened me witli nmch interesting eonversation 
 respecting the Indians, and I pnt much reliance in 
 his information as-' his ae(|uaintaneo with thcni was 
 very extensive and familiar. They liave an idea 
 of a supreme l)ein!i but do not worslnp him, 
 and have an evil spirit, bur it is doubtful whether 
 they maint'iined tliis view until the advent of the 
 whites. Tht^re art also numerous idefil pei'sonages 
 who are supposed eithei" to have pei'fornuHl supm-- 
 hnman works (as Wiskayteliacli and his re[)roduetion 
 of the world after tlu' flood), or who liad or have 
 some intlnential jK»wer o\ei' them But although 
 they pnt great faith m the legendary lore, the 
 heroes ai'c regarded with little reverence or awe. 
 The medicine-men or eonjui'ors have immense ))Ower 
 innong th(\se dwellcTs m moral ilaikne.ss ; they arc 
 considered almost infallible, and if their predictions 
 fail the non-success is attributed to some defect in 
 the medicine, either that it was not strong (aiongli, 
 
 f 11 l!^ 
 
 '-■f ; 
 
 ' .r 
 
 ■I I 
 
^ 
 
 818 
 
 >5Eni('[NF,-.Mb;N. 
 
 I' I 
 
 ! t 
 
 : 1 
 
 . 1 H- 
 
 or that some form was omitli'd in its |)rc|)ai'atii)ii 
 The otticc seems to be dniidical in its tendeney ; 
 much has to hv, gone tlii"oii<xh by the neo[)hyte 
 before he can be initiated into its mysteries, wliieh 
 are conducted witli mvich secresy. It is certainly an 
 important and valuable oiiice , none Imt the pri\i- 
 leged can **niake medicine or venture to predict;" 
 ridicule and failiuv would he sure to follow ^iucli 
 attempt, Tliese are the doctors oi the tribes; Ihey 
 are acqnanted with main herbal and nuneral reme- 
 dies, among Mhicli are emetics, and (.'ures foi 
 s])asms, also plants for staunching blood, and of 
 healing properties. A favourite jtrescription is the use ol 
 the vapour-bath, and fiom my s'iglU knowledge of then- 
 hal its, T should tluidv that many of their disordeis 
 may b(^ removed by a(|ueous visitation 
 
 The patient is placed iu a tightly closed unt. 
 whei'ein are heated stones n])on which water is 
 thrown after ri 'uainiag n\ tjie bath foi- aw liile \\ 
 
 is not unnsnal lo dash right into the 
 
 iee-eoi.' 
 
 streams; noi does this seem to do any harm 
 Singmg IS much practised, but it is, thongh varied, 
 of a very hunulrum nature. I hci'rd a good deal 
 of this by our old friend at Hear Lak<' , — some- 
 limes \\v sang or droned for singmg's sake: at others 
 his lay was in a tone of lament for the du.sky 
 
 i f 
 

 I'l' ( • |{ K. \ S |., OK INI' \\T|(;||»|.; 
 
 .'H!) 
 
 tlamc's and Hieir liltlr (ji 
 
 W's, whose unfiiiu'lv Tate 
 
 liinist'lt' had liaslcjiod. and then I 
 
 le succ(H'( 
 
 led 
 
 m 
 
 being very dismal. VVh.-n he feasted wvll or l)ad 
 been t'ortnmite in his trrpjHng losults, he sanu in 
 ni)tes of rejoieiiifi-, and that his good hick might 
 be repeated, and soinethiies he eertainJy sani; de- 
 votionally, but to what jx.wcj' I am (pate in the 
 (hirk. Talknig of the <hn'k, that was jiis favourite 
 tnne for this soil of devotioujil exercise : I have 
 often been awakened ni the dead hour, iiy the 
 not very nnisical einanation> of llie old i^etitlenuui. 
 
 1. 
 
 he 
 
 wtio When liis solo was eonehu 
 
 led, 
 
 general) 
 
 V retse 
 
 and took an eNtensive smoke, besides alleviatiiij 
 an unfortunate uTitation of the skui wliiel 
 
 1 occurs 
 
 among IncUans. nearly as nuich as with the 'i'uski, 
 and from the same cimxax. 
 
 Infanticide, which was at no distant period 
 
 uni- 
 
 versally preval(Mi1 as regarded tlu> female children 
 
 anuears 
 
 'PI 
 
 tol 
 
 lave much dimuusheil 
 
 SI 
 
 ives 
 
 ia\e 
 
 ;he worst character for this crime, vvlueh n i.s to 
 be hoped will soon cease entirely 
 
 The m^'dicuie-meii must be tolerabi\ clever 
 fellows if ilieir aptitude reach the ])itch fa whicli 
 they have credit. When one is about to conjure, 
 a tent is constructed of j)oles, mclining to ( aeli 
 other at ihe top, which are eticirca-d by hoop> at 
 
 i \ 
 
 
 ^^>, 
 
3^>0 
 
 ' M \KTNO MKDICfNK " 
 
 
 
 I I 
 
 ( " ; 
 
 , ) 
 
 m 
 
 ( J. 
 
 (litferour hcifijlits, ;in«l tlic whole is tlien covojvd 
 Avitli Icutlur, Avlu'ii it pn^scnts n sliape lik(! tho 
 fi'iisltiiii t)t' a siifrai-lopf Tilt; T0]> is open, and to 
 tlh' upper hoop is stitelied a hlankot, vvluch fulls 
 down as a funnel . this is (ft admit the spirits 
 >vhicli are evoked, 'ut I could not learn wlint were 
 tiieu' attributes, except that there is one wiiich 
 seems to have j)ovv(^r over tlie rest, is an evil 
 beuig, and puts an end to the proreediugs by 
 appeju'iug without summons and driving oil" the 
 other (Meatnres of air. TIk^ mediciiu'-mau goes into 
 the tent before the skin covering is finally sewn on. 
 and begins to sing away at a great riitc, the house 
 at the same tune shaking with violence, so nuich 
 so as son M;f lines to fall down ; this, it is supposed, is 
 doiif by the spirits, and certainly the conjurors must 
 be very expert . nt some nistanccs they have per- 
 mitted themselves to be bound hand and foot, 
 wra[»pedin a lu.'t and thus thrown mto the tent, which 
 has immediately began to shake, and in a very brief 
 space till' net and bonds were tyected from the tent 
 without a knot havmg been nntied. For their (Miemies 
 they are said to j)ossess terribk^ medicines, the ejfect 
 of one bt!ing to distort the features to one side — 
 probably paralysis by ])oison — of another, to remhr the 
 skill perfectly blue, like, the result of nitrale of silver. 
 
T'lF, WARHIOK s OHUKAF,. 
 
 3-21 
 
 Of war tuid its praoti^o^ I did not licai* a great 
 deal, but lenrned tlmt tht; oi'd'id previous to ad- 
 mission as a warrior in sonic trib»?s still rules , 
 the young \}wn of tlu; J)alicotah or Sioux tribes must 
 be able to bear torture without fliueluui; before they 
 ran be alloAved to serve. One trial consists in diair 
 ging a buft'alo's \wi\d round the ramp liy a eoi'd thrust 
 t.hrot'gh the muscles at the hips. 
 
 April brought the iirst signs of >.pring, and a 
 warm south wind occasionally, and speedjly dinunished 
 the snow, which was aboul four feet deep , the birds 
 appeared from the woods, into whose recess(^s the} 
 had retired for shelter during the extreme cold, and 
 shrubs b(?came pliant during noonday, some even 
 showing signs of vegetation. Early in the month 
 two Indian boys came from B(?a^' Lake bringing me 
 intelligence that some of the seamen were attacked 
 with illness, and that one of tlie Indian wotnen, whom 
 we had relieved with fish on our journey hither; had 
 died from the eftects of exposure and famine. Of 
 course I hastened to visit the party, iuid found the 
 trip to Bear Lake full o. interest in the comparisons 
 to be drawn bt'twixt winter and dawning spring. 
 The snow had fallen from the trees, and left many 
 pointed sm'faces of i"(»ck or earth unc<ivered ; nund>ers 
 of wood-peckers maintained a continual tapping, for 
 
 rl 
 
 *' t 
 
•M-Z 
 
 AN Ar< IDKNT. 
 
 1^ 
 
 I i 
 i' ) 
 
 I I 
 
 
 I I) 
 p. 
 
 muK'i' tlic l):ii'k »(t' tlccayt'd \)\u<< tlu-y liiul iibimdjuuM' 
 t)f worms : s()iu(> trees W(T(5 cunouslv nuwktd hv flicir 
 bills, scarcely an inch of their surfaces being left 
 uutoiiclied. During tlie cnrly part of tlie day wv 
 walked without snow-shoes, a good crust liaving 
 formed on the ice, but tiu' noonchiy sim in softening 
 the track eompelled their adopiior.. I had the 
 misfortune to cut n\y foit wvuely with un axe the 
 morning after wc started, and only iv)ntinued the 
 jomniey as a les>er evil than tliose of di'layhig mv 
 companions by their return with me, or retracing my 
 steps alone, \vliich, ni case of great loss ot l)lood or 
 other accident, nnght be of fatal consecpience. So wc 
 bandaged up the wound, and 1 donned my mocassin, 
 determined to make light of the disaster, altliongh 
 blood welled from the gash, and, penetrating through 
 blanket-socks and mocassins, congealed upon the 
 snow-shoe. I suffered long and severely by this 
 accident, the considerable walking (above a hundred 
 miles) irritated the wound, and on the return journev 
 to lort Nornuni the. snow had so muc}» melted that 
 we had frequently to march ankle or even knee deep 
 ill i(e v.ater; this of course was very bad, and for 
 some time nothing would excite the hurt to sensation. 
 On arrival at New Fort Franklin, I found several of 
 the ])arty very unwell, and all pale and delicate- 
 
"1 m I 
 
 innng my 
 
 '.y2:\ 
 
 TI?K INDIW Woman's KKAI'M 
 
 looking, — MO douht, iii coiisi'tniciico ot tlitjir umfonii 
 diet of fish, to vvliicJi I had now li 
 
 owovor l)roiiy;ht a 
 
 most vvclromo ('liiiiir/o iii [lie shjipi of a large case of 
 pemmican. Tliu talc we liful luard of the Indi 
 
 an 
 
 'y 
 
 woman was true. After piirtmg witli us on the di 
 when ^^•o lind given her and others some Mi, she had 
 arrived on the shore of lh\'ir Lnkc, alKmr, four miles 
 from the hut, and euesimped tiiei-e with several other 
 Indians for ahout three weeks . <lm-iii<>- this time she 
 became very ill, and, hciiig uuable to accompany her 
 frioKh, was disserted by th(;)ii — her fnther and brothers 
 among the rest, the latter telling her that they left 
 her th(!n^ to die. Souic of tiio wrmien who liad beeu 
 encamped with \w.\\ had U^vw .>mploycd to net snow- 
 shoes for my party, and the Iiuli an ])(ty going over to 
 fetch some Avhich had been K-ft, foimd tlu 
 creatnre, with h<'r two little on(!s, alone, witlioui either 
 
 )oor 
 
 tire 
 
 > /.»• 
 
 iv«./Vl. 
 
 liC Canard, alias the Cannibid, 
 
 was 
 
 immediately despatched ro help her over to the hut, 
 and was obliged to drag iier across the lake on liis 
 snow-shoes, as she was ptn-feetly helpless. 1Mie party 
 tiien Suilt iier a small iodg<'. aud did all in their 
 power to help her; tliey cat wood for her hre and 
 prepared her food, using a case of concentrated grav}- 
 soiip Avhich I liad always reserved foi' an occasion of 
 illness of any oi' the party. Their cares, however, 
 
'6'H 
 
 IlKTUHN ro PORT \ GUM AN 
 
 f ■ I 
 
 
 , 1 
 
 ( 1 
 
 :i 
 
 : i 
 
 were unavailing , in ten <lays slif diorl, iif<<i- rre«jncntly 
 asking- for" P(!-cali-(l!v-aii/t'e," or tlie "little MastiM\" 
 UK'uning niyf^t'ir, vvlioin she vv( II recolhictcd, Tiic 
 InJians who were near, deserted tin' locality innnc- 
 dii'tely (ju her chu'rast . and the men, headed l)y Taylor 
 the fishernuni, a good-heartcfd and drv s[)eeinien of 
 tlu; Orkney Islands, wlio liad been fonrteen vwu's in 
 
 t. I.' 
 
 the conntry, proceeded »o make a " cache " on the 
 brow oj tin- hill behind the hnt, wherein they 
 deposited tin emaciated corpse, and, as customary, 
 the few articles sh<' possessed. The worthy fellows 
 now took the cinldren under their care , the poor little 
 creatures had been frightfully burtn-d, hav'ng several 
 timtis fallen into the tire, ;ind from th«;ir tender age 
 been unable to extricate themselves; but (hey were 
 
 I.' 
 
 with attention restored, and the little girl was 
 consigned to an Indian family, tli(> boy reinaining 
 with the men until their de})arturt .* After a stay oi' 
 two davs, I started on return to Fort Norman, the 
 journey occupying this time (mly two and a half days 
 w)th loaded sledges. We had hidden some dried 
 meat in the snow on our journey to the lake, but tjie 
 ravens had discovered and aj)propriated it : they are 
 
 * F liavp biiice learned with great rfigrei that ttu-se eliiirlrpn perished in 
 the winh^i t,f 1851'2, during a Hoarcity of provmion. This .Siwi oociu'reuce 
 was proguo.Mticttt.efl at tho time of my visit tiy I-e Cjiinird, who certainly 
 WiiH npjl qiialitipd t(> giv? an opinion on thiti siihiei't. 
 
 rf 
 
i'(jiieinly 
 Vlrtstur," 
 (I The 
 V innnc- 
 ly Taylor 
 ciiiieii of 
 years in 
 on tin; 
 fill they 
 LstoinarV: 
 iy fellows 
 )oor little 
 ig si;vci'hI 
 •luU'i ag«' 
 \\i'\ were 
 girl was 
 vmaiiiiiii»" 
 a stay o\' 
 niiui, the 
 half (lays 
 me (lrie<l 
 , hut t,he 
 they are 
 
 perished m 
 d oociirreuce 
 ivho certainly 
 
 HK.I()IM';i> m Till', HKAK l,.KI', IVMM'V 
 
 ;j^:j 
 
 most «laring ami cKver pilfenTs My ('(imjiaiiioiis 
 were two men of Fort Norman, hoth half east(^s : f)ne 
 of them helonged to tlu,' Colony fontidid l>v Lord 
 Selkirk on the Hefl River, aiid Ins ideas of hitjhlv 
 eivilisrd life were ratlmr i)rinntive, venderiiijj; our 
 ronversalions sutheienlly amusinu' (o mr in eons«'- 
 (|Men('e ; amoiiji; otiier (|nestioiis j)ro|>oundrd were 
 wlunlier our gracious Queen e\er \isili'd poor people, 
 and if all the i^ohUer.s lived in ihe palaee with her 
 Majesty. 
 
 Snow-birds were seen on the :Mth of April, the 
 lirst and (jar'y arrivals of niigrating hirds : .some which 
 were shot were vtTy fat ; their condition is eoiisidered 
 a eriterion of that of the wild-fowl. Dueks arrived 
 on the -Ith of May, geese and suans later: they 
 were all ni very fair condition, and a truly welcome 
 addition to our nu-agre fare. 
 
 The party which had ivnuiiued at Hear Lake 
 rijfiined me on the Sth t)f May, by which time the 
 snow had greatly decreased, and much water apjieared 
 upon the river-ice ; and on the ['MM the iee com- 
 menced to break up and pass down : there were, 
 however, many stojipages by whicli the current was 
 impeded to such an extent that the ri\er rose about 
 Hve and twenty feet, and Hooihtl the country , the 
 fort was snrr()unded witli water, mid we brought oni 
 
'.m 
 
 VISIT IJIDM I)U. .MMIN UAK 
 
 i, I. ' ' 
 
 f'i 
 
 ■I- 1 
 
 t/ i 
 
 ' 'r 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 ! i 
 
 boat into the coiirt-ynrd ^o thr dodrsof the (lw( llnigs ; 
 ill! tho feticcs ftiifl riiufli fuel wen: cnriicd olV, mikI Ijuj^c 
 iiiasscis of ice tloatcd around, sour; of whic li rcnumicd 
 >\ lien the ( Instruction of the ehnnnel vvns removed luid 
 the river hnd free ])assnge a^ain ; had thi- water eon- 
 tinued to rise tniK'h longer the fort vvouM [))(>f)al)ly 
 have been earried otiV* On tin- '2:hu\, hocr^r 
 John ]lae. thi- vvrll-known Arrtie voyager, at that 
 time in eharge (tf the Mackenzie River District, 
 cauic down from h>r1 Simpson on liis way to Fort 
 (lood iJope, which is visited evi.ry year, (Hi tlie 
 breaking uj) of the ice, hy the Head of the District. 
 I cannot forbear to otter a tribute to his (U)urteoiis 
 and dehcatc attention; further a(«|uaiiitance engend- 
 ered sentiments of great esteem for liis manv evcelleiit 
 (|ualities. On the :21th, my party started for Fort 
 Simpson, and we rejoined Mr. FuHen at that jjlaci- 
 on the 1st of June 
 
 We noted on the iournev tlie enormous force 
 exerted l)y the river when obstructed m its passage 
 on the disruption of the ice ; it had m many phices 
 risen to a great h<'iglit, and here enormous masses and 
 great (piantities of ice ha«l lieen dejmsited along tiic 
 banks Where abrupt [joints occurretl it was piled to 
 
 * Tliis rittnally hrtppened iioxt jeiir, ]8;'»1, luai-ly cvciytliing luuiig hwiji' 
 n\>av Hnd the station is p.ow icmovfJ to tlif bunk "f }<eHr Jtivrr. 
 
i 
 
 i 
 
 llANt'K (*l rill. >l, W I. IMM \NN 
 
 387 
 
 i 
 
 tlir ht ij^lit tit'(|in'iilly ot'lorty or lilly IVit VVc c>[)K.'(I 
 oiu! or two Ix'iirs, l»ul did not. kill any, a \rrv mcr 
 cliiiiicc was lost It) my lriidm}i '<" Indian in\ dniiUlc- 
 harivl tn^o in chaHO . he got withiii shot of Mr. Hinin, 
 :Mid pnlk'd tl»c trigjjfcr, 1ml tin- trnii was at hall'-t'ock 
 only, and I'l' i'iiIkm i'carrd or did not know liou to fock 
 It, and «anK' l)ack with a very hjank visag*', whose 
 as[)i.vt was not impro\ed b) our nuTnuicul at his* 
 
 stnpidity. 
 
 \\v wcfc vory gladtonach this place whoic t'or 
 the iirst time snno sepaiating Iroin Mr I'nilen yii 
 period often moiitlis), we «'njo d tile Inxury of a 
 eonil'ortahle bed, having sear. '-ly ever during that 
 nine taken oil' our elotli -s i' )•• nightly a pose I saw 
 here a daiiec^ of the Sir e Indian.', a most uiiii'tcMJst- 
 ing spectaele although there were man) peiibriners. 
 Tilt daneers moved round, and round in a eiieh , liieir 
 feet shullling ahaig in the '* take close oixhsr " styh^ ; 
 sonic moved their feel only, others ,svva\ed then bodies 
 and arms to and fro, and one or two waved eagl<'s' 
 wings above - itcir heads ; several women were among 
 t lie performers ; they were, if possible, less animated 
 than the mm All kt;pt up a monotonous chant <»f the 
 most dioinal tindeney— "he he, he, he; ha tui . he he; 
 ho ho, hollo; he, he, he," \ e . wliieli was their only 
 iiuisa- and the wltole pnteeeding was so very ' slow, " 
 
 '^ii 
 
 : '4 
 
 it 
 
r 
 
 
 •Mb 
 
 PKLLY BANKfS STATION. 
 
 I' I 
 
 n 
 
 !!■'" ' 
 
 
 1 i 
 
 fli -^r^ 
 
 ■ -' ■ , ? 
 
 - /I 
 
 • 
 
 - i 
 
 1 
 
 • ■ 1 
 
 - ! 
 ! 
 
 
 that it suuM «-xiuiUHt('(l uiy small stock t>l' pHtieuce, ami 
 1 ileparted, but uuderstood tliiu the fjtyiiisement was 
 cotitiriued for s(!V(;ral hours, probably for the sjikc oi 
 exercise, 
 
 On tlic btjj of June, three ge))tiemeii of the company 
 arrived fi'orn the postt* on the \V» •^,t Ilvaneh or Liard 
 River, ivliicli falls into the Maeken/ie just above 
 Fort Simpson. One ol these, a Mr. T , had sutfeved 
 almost incredible privations during the pa^t winter, 
 the two mcji avIio were with hun havii^' died IVotu 
 starvation The details are heartrending, iiorrible, 
 and e;ven revoltnig. 
 
 Pelly Banks station, whtre the catastrophe occurred, 
 is situated u])ou tlir Pclly river, about lODO miles 
 distant from l'V>rt Siiuj)son. The Felly |oms the 
 Lewis at Fort H«,'lkirk, S\i) miles from Pelly Banks, 
 the mut(Hl stream forming tlu* river Youeoii. In the 
 spring of Isl^, Mr. P. was ordered to this j)Oot, and 
 remained at th;it or the Francis Lake ;>tiitioii close t,o ii 
 during the s\nnmer with two men when they ol'teii 
 had a scarcity offo()d, but emlured no severe privation 
 Mr, O'Hrien arrived at frunci^s Lake iibout tlie nuddie 
 of October, I S51, having been obliged to send thirteen 
 men in a l>oat, out of eighteen men and two boats, bai-k 
 to head-(juarte?'s in conse(pieTue of the lateness of the 
 season and state of the waters, The.e w ere now se^ en 
 
■^ 
 
 
 i 
 
 \ 
 
 i 
 
 "i 
 
 SllOHT COiMMON.-;. 
 
 ;i;21) 
 
 men and two otticoj's at the post, with scarcely any food 
 coming in, and tliey wer«; reduced to eating moose, 
 rein-deer, bear, and l)eaver skins ; half a moose skin 
 being tiie allowance for six men for ont; day. It may 
 be considenxl how little food they liad, from the fact 
 that Mr, O'Brien started in the spring of 1811) for 
 Fort Halkeii, 410 miles distant, with live men and 
 only fo;'v days' provision, ekhig out tlie remaindei- of 
 their subsistenc(^ by their gnns. During the following 
 snnnner Mr. P., with two white men and an 
 engaged Indian, managed to live tolerably on the 
 |)roduce of their guns and nets ; but at the latter end 
 of August food again began to be scaj'c^e, and they 
 anxiously looked forward lo the arrival of the annutd 
 boats from Fort Simpson with stores, ammunition, i&c. 
 for the Indian trade, To their deep disappointment 
 none arrived. Having, therefore, no means of barter, 
 and this intclhgence (piickly spreading amongst the 
 Indians, nothing in the shape of ju'ovisions was 
 brought hi by the Indians, with the exception of six- 
 teen pounds of meat and six iiuirmots. To add to 
 their misery, the Fort took fire late in TSovember, and 
 was burned down : thus nearly all remaining resomces 
 in store, including most of the furs, were destroy<'d, 
 a little powder and some furs only being saved, 
 llavmg eaten up everything to the ver\ pack or 
 
 I'': 
 
:i;i() 
 
 1>KATH KUOAI STARVATION 
 
 i ' * I 
 
 1 .» ' 
 
 f :•; 
 
 1 ! 
 
 il ^ 
 
 halc-corils niiulc of grc(Mi hide, leatlici", and <<v(m> 
 tlioir mocassins, they bejjjan in tlic middle of l)i;t*cni- 
 ber to singe and eat the remaining furs. Th(3 Indian 
 v'ith his wife, his young brotlier, and two httle girls, 
 went to encamp m the woods, where they dragged on 
 a miseraWe t;xistence with the aid of rabbits and 
 esculent roots, Mr. P. hnvnig, perhaps, more eonti- 
 dence in iiis own powers than in those of his men, 
 gave them up the furs, telling tlieui io try and make 
 them last out untd spring, while he himself went 
 oif hi the beginning of .lamiary to a lake to try and 
 catch fisli. Here is his diet-table for 57 days : — 
 
 20 fish. 
 18 rabbita. 
 8 [)artriilg(;s. 
 10 squirrels, 
 
 1 fox. 
 
 1 crow or ravon 
 
 I owl. 
 
 On his return, on the 13th of March, he Inuiid lo 
 his horror but one man , and, asking for the otlu r, 
 was informed that he had died eight days since from 
 sheer inanition : for,alth()Ugh tlie furs were by no means 
 exhausted, (hey (hd not contain nnitter suflieient for 
 the ci'cation of blood ; and thus, though often eating 
 to surfeitmg, he sank grachially until his last feihic 
 breath was drawn Mr, I', asked the remaining man 
 where the body was, he rephed that lu; had cached il 
 inside, l»nt thai tli*' wolves had drau'ued il awav 
 
 ^t 
 
A IIOKKIK I)IS(1,(>81KV:. 
 
 iiU 
 
 \U' went out, but (h)iiI(I iliscovcr wo tract ol it -, uiul, 
 (.•omiug iH, sat down by the tive, which was composed 
 of the boards of the house, the poor fellow bcinp; too 
 weak to cut up woo(i. lie observijd some hones m 
 the fireplace, and nionientai'v suspicions of a frightful 
 uatim' crossed his nvJnd, but these were s])ee(iily 
 dissipated by the reniai'k made by the man, that these 
 were the: bon(;;s of deer, &c., which had, in |)ast tunc, 
 fallen throiigli the chinks of the boards, and liiid lieen 
 picked up when the flooring was taken for firewood. 
 Aftei' cutting wood and fetching water enough to last 
 until he should return, Mr. P. w^ent off, determining 
 again to seek his food rather thim di^prive his 
 conij)anion of the remairiiug furs, and hoping that he 
 ii;.ght perchance get through the season on them. 1 fe 
 rt'paireil to the hxlge of the Indian, \\ ho had iieen to tlie 
 Kort since the death of tlie other man, and on Mr. P. 
 expressing liis wonder tliat tlie body was not to be 
 found, the Indian repUed, •' Is it p')ssible, my fatlier, 
 that you do not know wb.at has become of it ? did 
 vou not see the bones in the tire|:»lace ? " Mr. P. 
 rephed, that the sui^ivor had told hini that those 
 were bones picked from under the floor. " My 
 father," was the answer, " 1 am an Indian, yet 1 know 
 that the live man has eaten the iiea<l. Deers' boiu> 
 I know, and the bone> of all other beasts 1 know, 
 
 ;';| 
 
 r 
 
 1 jl 
 
 
 i 
 ,1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 I 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 u 
 
 s. 
 
 ! I 
 
.•}3j2 
 
 UrN(iER 8 K\ IHEMKh. 
 
 
 
 '; 
 
 I I 
 
 ■ - ) 
 
 '■ .1 
 
 l<'l 
 
 I 1 , * 
 
 .i . 1- 
 
 >.' - I 
 
 ■:1 
 
 Those wcAv Moue such : tliey veiv the liojics of m 
 huniai; being ; for wlien 1 went to the house 1 iilso 
 saw those boiuN in the ashes, .kI received a lii<e 
 jHiswer to yoiU's, hut, talking a pu'ee of skin .mkI 
 putting it to roast at the fire, 1 let it fol) as if by 
 accidentj then i-aking among the ashes witli a sriek, 
 1 turned the bones over, and saw that they \\erc 
 certainly those of a hiunnn being. My father, I am im 
 Indian ; yet, trust wliat 1 say, one has eaten the other." 
 In five iluys, according ty promise, Mi' P. n^turne'd 
 to the Fort, having existed meanwiiilo on an occa- 
 sional partridge oi rabbit. On (;ulering the liouse in* 
 found tlie poor tellow lying before the lire., totail)' 
 \inable to help himself, smd now told him tliat, yiiu-e 
 he found luui so weak, henceforward, " live or die, he 
 would leave him no more." Ife managed Uj shoot a 
 raven for him soid went to feK.'h wood and w.iter, 
 and to try tor some g;tn)e. Keturnnig sooium- than 
 was expected, and opening the door (piiekly and .vide, 
 as had lately bev.n his custom, he saw the ketth; on 
 the tire, and on m([ujry, was answered that it 
 contained merely water ; but. ot)ing to the pot, he saw 
 that it held somethhig more — and, searching the inside 
 of the kettle, horrible to t<'ll, drew out a whole livei. 
 Paralyzed by this dreadfu' sight, he could not speak, 
 while the poor .starving wretch, now discovered m the 
 
 . .ilA-- ..— .... I^WJ^Hkfi'.-.. 
 
■ MflU 
 
 fBSW 
 
 ■awk 
 
 C'OXPF.SSION' VNl) KKUOKSK. 
 
 383 
 
 1:i 
 
 DUCS of il 
 
 ise I also 
 ?e(l a like 
 
 skin imd 
 11 HS if by 
 [t]\ a svick, 
 tlu'y M'ei'o 
 ■r, I aui i\v. 
 the. other/' 
 :'. n'turiujd 
 I an occa- 
 te house he 
 ire, totally 
 
 that, since 
 e or die, he 
 I to shoot a 
 and AvaU-r, 
 lOor.iM* thai^ 
 y iind wide, 
 he kettle on 
 ed that it 
 ', pot, he saw 
 \<r the inside 
 
 whole hvev. 
 1 not speak, 
 veicd ni the 
 
 I 
 
 coininissioii of the horrid deed, (owered down on the 
 hearth, and dared not lift his eyes to meet those of Ins 
 fellow sufi'erer. Of him amazement, grief, loo+hing, 
 yet withal pity, took [)oisession alternately ; poor 
 felioAV ! not etpially Ioav with his ( ompanion, probably 
 beeause less desponding and more robust in eonsti- 
 tntion, weak, and starving as ho was. the revolting 
 ^ight overcame him, and he rushed into the open air 
 for relief. Compassion for the })oor wretch led him 
 again to re-enter the house, but, luiable to speak, he 
 eommeiiced hewing a log. His uiifortunate com- 
 panion asked him, however, what was the matter — why 
 (hd he rush so wildly out? " Will you now contx^ss," 
 said Mr. "., " that you have been eating poor Dubois?" 
 The mis(;rable being slowly and fearfully acknowledged 
 that such was the case, and pleaded that not alone the 
 love of life (and oh ! when life is fleeting, then is the 
 love for it the strongest) — not the love of life alone 
 incited him to the deed, but that he wislsfd to 
 live — aye ! — mark it well -that his aged motlier 
 might not be de|)rived of hei- sole support, her only 
 
 stav. 
 
 Mr. P. now procured wood and water sufficient for 
 two days — but he could no kmger bear to remain : 
 the thought of this deed haunted him like a fate, and 
 he departed, promising to r(>turn in two flays '['he 
 
 i*s- 
 
^.•Jl. 
 
 IJKATH PKOM SI «n;ri'. 
 
 :' I i 
 
 f ; 
 
 ;^! 
 
 if 
 
 • ! 
 
 f ,• 
 
 1:. r IJI 
 
 5 J. 
 
 rl 
 
 .if 
 
 ^ '11 
 
 ' r, 
 
 I 1 
 
 Hkcluton hufori: liiiii prayrd ami t'litivnttfl liiin not to go, 
 not again to leave him all lone and solitary. But he 
 could not stay, poison vvjis u\ the v« ry atinos|>}ii're for 
 !iiui. lie Avent, and in iwo <!ays lotunied again,, and 
 throwing tV' door opeti (iui< )-''y as usii;;i — " what a 
 ,-ight preset^led its* It"! " The man, or what had once 
 ham a man, ' ty dead upon the hearth, stift' and eoul, n 
 skin-covered tVavue of bones. The fire ha 1 burnt out 
 for iuck of fuel, Jind beside the eorp,so vius the kettle, 
 whose contents !..id m> [f\u]y eouarmcd his frightful 
 fiuspieions. It was now perfectly empty — tlesli, 
 broth — all utterly i<>uRumcd. 
 
 The wretched being had met his final death-stroke 
 in a surfeit of the hoirible repast. 
 
 Mr. P. took the body outside the Fort and laid it 
 " en cache ;" then writing two letters, one for White.^, 
 the other for Indians, he took himself to a distance 
 and there (encamped. For iiearly three weeks he 
 dragged on a poor existence with skins and sonu; 
 little game, and was reduced to the former extremity, 
 when the brother of the engaged Indian arrived \\ith 
 some meat for him, hoping haply to find hiin still 
 alive. On meeting, they both shed tears of joy 
 " My father, my father," said tlu; red man, "is it 
 possible that yon are still alive? oh ! what delight for 
 us to be able to save you." lie said he was not 
 
 J 
 
Il 
 
 STFiATAfiF.Ms To OUI'MV |u(»|» 
 
 335 
 
 
 siirpviso'l to liiul that the otIuM' man was dead, having 
 estimated at the last meeting that he would not hve 
 I en days longer. 
 
 "There was little rest for the kettle that night," 
 and next morning the Indian started off to retuin lo 
 his brother, and stop him frctm drying the meat he 
 had. On the t()lJowing morning Mr. P. (h;})arted also 
 tor the einnp, and when arrived soon reeovered w 
 little strength. ./Vfter a fortnight's stay he I'cturned 
 to the Fort and encamped o]iposite to it, as he hail 
 now some meat to live upon ; but an old woman, whom 
 he had suceonred on the road, arrived shortly after and 
 remained at the camp., so that there was not a 
 lame shaie for each. Seven davs after his arrival, 
 Mr. S, with three men came in; two of these being 
 Indians, returned to Fort Selkirk, the others with 
 Mr. P. starting next day for Fort Ilalkett : having 
 only forty pounds of pemmican for the jonriu^y, 
 they had therefore to depend mainly upon their guns ; 
 they were fortunately all good shots, and wild fowl 
 were in abnndance. 
 
 Some of Mr. P.'s stratagems to obtain food daring 
 the winter were snflliciently ingenious, for he had very 
 little shot, although powder enough. ..\.t on*^- time 
 he looped a partridge with a long pok; and a snare 
 (these birds are very tame; in extreme cold) ; on 
 
 
i I 
 
 ;i3n 
 
 >IUN{)F.R TUV MOTHKIl OF INVENTION . 
 
 another occasion ho shot a 9t|uirrel with a })iece ot 
 aroen sitick, and, the hammer of his gun being broken, 
 fired with a piece of birch fungus, used as tinder, 
 having first tried a hghted stick, which diverted 
 ]iis aim. 
 
 i^i- 1 
 
CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Leave Port Simpsou. — Arictnt of Mackenzie. — Receive Admiralty 
 DoHpatciies. — Mr. I'ullon promoted.— Return to Vovx. Simpson. — The 
 "Logan'' and "Tj'j Again." — Doparturo forthoSeaCoaist. — r'nut Sepa- 
 ration. — Tiny Torniontors.— A ditniuutivo OonrmaMd. -Ro-onter the 
 
 Arctic Ooe.'iu. — Garry Island. —Ice Blink. — Pully Island. A change 
 
 of (Jliuiato. --.Dii.-icovor New Islands. — An E.<inidmaux Hamlet.— 
 VoxatiouB Inipodimeuts. -• Scheme of Voyage. — Heavy Ice. —An 
 
 EHciiiimau.t Nurse. — Cape Bathuitit, Mooting with EsquirnauT. Tho 
 
 Bear Hunt. — ProgrcsH checked by Ice. - Friendly demoanoui' and 
 Pilfering tendencies of Esquimaux, — Lone IndianB. — Coujectiu'ee. — 
 Indiana return. 
 
 Dr. Rae returned from the lower j)osts on the 
 10th ol' June, urul on the 20th, half of the " Mac- 
 kenzie River Brigade," consisting of four large boats 
 laden with fiu-s, started from Port Simpson, en route 
 for Methy Portage, the other half having departed 
 some da/s before. The "Plover's" boat ex})edition 
 accompanied this brigade, expecting to n;turn to 
 England, by way of Hudson's Bay. We continued 
 the ascent of the Mackenzie, — principally, as usual, by 
 tracking, starting generally at two or three in the 
 morning ana encamping at nine, for at this season 
 there is constant daylight. On the 25th of June, 
 
 h 
 
y^s 
 
 HEf'F.IV K l»r^l',\T<'URS 
 
 1 r I 
 
 wJien near Clival Slave l^ak*;, we were iii<t l>y tu(j 
 liulians ii\ a cauoc who jm»v(>»l to In Im trri's (•{ ar) 
 •' extraordiiuiry express from J])iglan(l, which con- 
 tained IVIr. Puilen's coiumissioii ns < ornmaniler ind 
 the sanction of the Admiralty to ronevvii) prosrciition 
 ftf the search for Sir John Franklin's parly, if Captain 
 Piillen should con.^idcr it practicalile. V(>ry little 
 ( onsideration was necessary on the suhject, and after 
 consult at ion with Dr. Uae, the decision wiw speedily 
 arrived at, to return to the sca-eoast. We roaelied 
 the fishing-station called Hig Island, at the entiance 
 of Great Slave Lake, Ashere some of our ])arty had 
 wintered, next day, and attempted to reach Fori 
 Rcsohition to obtain a sn|)ply of peinmican, hut llu- 
 ice in tlie lake cheeked our progress, and ('a])tain 
 Pullcn decided on returning at once to Fort Simpson, 
 to prepare lor the second trip, C)n the '2Uth, accord- 
 ingly, we bade farewell to Dr. Kae and his brigade, 
 and retraced our way to Fort Si)n])Son, which was 
 readied on the 3rd of July. 
 
 Tiie boats which we had brought from tlie "Plover' 
 were so much damaged that only one, the " Logan, ' 
 (repaired from the other"! could be made uvaiiabie, 
 and we were furnished by the company with a lai'ge 
 new boat, whose dimensions wcie in strong contrast 
 to our own diminutive craft ; she measured thutv 
 
 '• t 
 
I.KAVK lOHT MMPSOH. 
 
 S39 
 
 I by two 
 rr-rs ot an 
 liicli am- 
 \m\vx iViul 
 
 (I'OSiiCHtlDll 
 
 it* Captain 
 VtTV littl*' 
 
 t, JUld flftlT 
 
 'dfi spei'dily 
 Ye reaclietl 
 lie entvnnf'i' 
 ■ party \vA^ 
 
 reach Fort 
 can, but tlu- 
 and Captitin 
 ort Simpson. 
 20th, a(;('or(1- 
 
 his briga(U\ 
 I, whirh was 
 
 the ''Plover" 
 he " Lopran," 
 .ade available, 
 f with a large 
 trong contrast 
 easnred thirty 
 
 t't'ci on tliL i^ccl. lortv " ovor 
 
 mil vsas nnii' }'<•( i, 
 
 broad. She was ( hristciicd • '\\y ,\«raiu,' in cfc'ri'ncf 
 to onr new attenij)! ni pivpurations for \vhi<"h we were 
 busy enougli for several days On the 1 Ith we 
 quitted Fort Sinipsion, and liulting tur a in^di' at 
 Fort Norman, whavv niv old fncnd and tisluiinan. 
 Taylor, was m charge, reaeju-d j'Ort (iood Hope on 
 the 10th, and were knidly welcomed hy .Mr Miieatli, 
 ho was greatly surf)nsed at our a[)))earance \V(^ 
 
 vv 
 
 (i( 
 
 th 
 
 day 
 
 resumed our descent ol tlie river next aay, re-crossed 
 the Arctic circle during tlu night, and hallitl on the 
 morrow at Point Separation tor (observations, and to 
 take up the pemmican left here by Sir John Richardson 
 in IS4S. On the previous ihiy we had met a party of 
 LoiK^heux who informed us wirh much bt)asting that 
 they had met Fsquimaux near Point Scpjiration a 
 short timo suicc, and had a l)att]e witli them : the 
 true particulars of this dastai'dly atVair were on'y 
 made known to us on oiir rctni'U. and will be 
 mentioned by and by. Moscpiitos and " bull-dogs" 
 (i. e., gad"tlies,) liad long been troublesome, but 
 h<;re they were pjvUcularly harassing ; th(3 lattei* 
 were in such numbers tliat they literally V)lackened 
 the mainsail of the "Try Again.' hoisted to shelter 
 us from the blazing noon-day sun which huschI the 
 thermometer to nearly lOlT, the tem})erature being 
 
 :h 
 
 z 2 
 

 ',m 
 
 TinoHq\'7')». 
 
 :\\ 
 
 H'j." in the shade. Aj»iirt from tlir ^rcat nruioyiinco 
 of \\u'. nK)s<(uif<)s, it wius ciirioiiM to iiotic*' our of 
 th(*s(! httic toi'MU'iits sctth' upon one's skm, iiiul liuw 
 its shriink carnisc disttmclcd to ((uadruplr its origiiiul 
 81/0 us it gorji«'d itself vvifh l>l(»od, tlic (crimson Hiiid 
 Hhowiii^ |)iainlv f)cnoath, until at last it hi'eauie 
 ahiiost iiu'apable of tli^lit. Each om of thoe tiny 
 creutuivs will extract a largo drop of liluod, so that 
 where they nvv. numerouH one may siiit'er eonsider- 
 ably by tlieir hoiii(ef)patirK' pidebotomy as well as by 
 the distressing irritation tbey prod nee. 
 
 After (piitting Point Separation on the 20th, wo 
 followed the easternmost ehannel of the delta,and found 
 tlie nioscpiitos ten tiuK^s worsts than ever. We un- 
 fortunately lainled near a swamp in the liopeof lindmj^ 
 n moose, and took myriads more of our perseeutors 
 into the boats on re-embaiking ; a smoky lire had no 
 effect in persuading them to (piit tlicir well-relislied 
 sanguineous fare, and they were so thick tliat our 
 joking tars declared they cliecked the boat's progn^ss 
 down the stream : ])ut the reality was no joke ; little 
 8le(!p was ol)tainal)le, for to enfold one's self in blankets 
 w^as to be tormented with heat, and in remaining 
 uncovered one received a thousand tiny stings until 
 the nerves became almost insupportably excited. 
 
 On the morning of the .22nd, the Arctic ocean was 
 

 VKLLV IHI,ANI>, 
 
 Ml 
 
 displayed onc(- iuori; lo our view, with ii strong ytllow 
 ice-blink on tin; horizon which did not promise nincli 
 for u clear sea. We hiiided on ( larry Fslaiul to dine, 
 and had a fine view from its liighcst part. To the 
 north and west a n«'arly nnbrokni line of ice a[)peai'eil, 
 and tt strong blink gave token of iri^ to the S. W. ; 
 N. E. only was clear of ice ami dottetl with ninnerous 
 islands and sandy patches. 
 
 The abruptness of the change in tempeintun; upon 
 (putting tlie Mack(!n/J(! was truly surprising , instantly 
 on our emerging from the cIkuuicI the almost tropical 
 heat we had j)reviously experienci-d was replaccul by 
 cutting fog and a chilling atmosj»here, and wc jumped 
 from light clothing into heavy winter habiliments. 
 
 Pelly Island was reached in the evening, and wo 
 encamped on its northern shores, having found tho 
 water shallow on the western side. At midnight, 
 when the sun, though near to, did not disappear 
 below the horizon, the pack was about three miles 
 off, di'iving to the southward ; amongst it were 
 some large hummocks and heavy floes. In some 
 small lakes on the island our two Indian hunters — 
 who, with other additions and some exchanges, in- 
 creased our party to seventeen persons — found a great 
 number of geese with their young : the old ones 
 were moulting and fell an easy ])rey U\ the guns : 
 
 i I 
 
842 
 
 DIHCUVEH NEW ISLANDS. 
 
 li i; 
 
 ^t ! 
 
 
 ; 
 
 I I. ■ , 
 
 r 
 
 t ' 
 
 (ibout forty were (captured, and made — although vt;ry 
 thill — an acceptable addition to our ordniary meagie 
 tare, and as we eould catch no tish they were donbly 
 acceptabKi. The western face of the island is t()rijied 
 of liigli banks, ])roken down and overhanging ; ul 
 its northern extreme are steep mud cliffs, apparently 
 from thirty to forty feet high, and cut by ice vvitliiii 
 five feet of the top. 'lo the eastward it terminates 
 in a long gravel sj)it. 
 
 On the 2J3rd some new ishmds were discovered, 
 but we had not then leisure to tix their positions with 
 acciuacy, and a few bearings sufticed. Kendall Island 
 was our resting place this night, and here our hunters 
 managed to bring down a deer which we esthnated 
 to weigh about 100 pounds clear of offal. 'i'lu? 
 higher parts of nil these islands resemble arable 
 land lying fallow, so much are they cracked and 
 riven by the intense cold. Flowers are in some 
 spots muuerous and of considerable variety, but all 
 very diminutive; no trees or shrubs imv to be met 
 with, a s[H'cu>s of cotton creeper, whose stem i,s 
 not larger than one's little finger, being the largest 
 production. There were innumerable nuvrmot holes; 
 the men were chasing these little animals throughout 
 the night A few ptarnngan were also seen upon 
 the hills. The soil is ail tine black mould, v.ith 
 
jiSQLiM.Mx n\MLj;r. 
 
 343 
 
 :, 
 f 
 
 i 
 
 , 
 
 J 
 
 iieillief stones nor .■sluUs. I'lMcing a tide-stick jvt 
 niglu wc fbuiicl iui\i niorniiiir a nt,e uu.i fall l' 
 about a foot. Wo eiieainpc'l on Richard l^lund 
 0!i tlic 21tli. tind iicTe killed anollki deer ^vUich 
 afforded luxvrious teustiiig. In tlit e\emng of the 
 25th, lauding for a short time near JVIer P*)iut, 
 we t'ouud a uvinbcr of Esoumuniv winter dwellings; 
 thev were built of dnftwood aiul sods of tiM'f or 
 nuid : on a gronnd-plau tti» v forivied three aides of a 
 cross, the roofs wtvre uearly orauefe-sliaped but i;ilhei' 
 more peaked, Avith a liok ni tiie o.itre to let out 
 the sniokc , the apartments wore aised abont four 
 feet from the ground, the eutrance being %ni bellow 
 through a sort of trajt-hateh Neai iLc 'Mti-~ were 
 several covered }»its containiiig whale and seal bhid- 
 ders of oil, and upon liglit seatfolds aroiuul were 
 disposed several articles of uativ- inaunfacture. At 
 iirst we thought tlic village was entirely deserted, 
 but a tiny foot} rint freshly niailo in llie saud re- 
 futed tlie supposition \Vo hung a knife, scissors, 
 some beads and tobacco to one of the stages, to- 
 gether with a rude hieroglyphic scratched npon a 
 board, to assure the Esfjuiiuanx ^.t' our friendly 
 intentions, then re-e\nl)ark( (i and continued our 
 joui-ncv. Becoming entangled in tin; |)ii.ck, "c gained 
 the Itcacli ni llutclini>;on's Hm\ ^vitli liilhcultv, and 
 
 M 
 
 ; t ■ 
 
 i 
 
844 
 
 VEXATIOTJS IMPEDIMENTS. 
 
 \ ' 
 
 
 were here detained for tln<« days of very great 
 discoiTifort, liuviTig landed on a low, marshy syMtl. 
 with no other shelter tlian sieve-hke tents front 
 melting snow and heavy lains, and with rotten wood 
 only for firt-s. We got away on the 20th, but the 
 day wa8 expended in toilsome endeaA ours to force a 
 passage tiirough the iec, which lay in llat pieces 
 or fields, sevet'al acres in extent, and seven or «'igl>t 
 feet thick, or rose m masses twenty or thirty fc-et 
 high, like so many houses in ruins. 
 
 It IS (lifficnli for inex))erience to conceive how 
 greatly chilled the wmd becomes m its passage over 
 ice. Here, in tJie month of -July, a south Ineeze, which 
 should hnve been the. softest and warmcsi exhahitiou 
 of ./Eolus, stagnated the blood by its frost-becharged 
 })reatli. In tlie ntorning we had forced throng.'i tlm 
 pack which belttul the shore, hoping to find an opm 
 sea, and at night succeeded only with great toil and 
 sonic danger in. regaining the land whicli was right 
 welcome after our disagreeable dav. iNearlv sixteen 
 hours in ojjen ))oats, Avitii thickly driving fogs which 
 wetted as badly as rain, and encrusted the ma^ts 
 and rigging with ice, while toes and noses com- 
 plained sadly, made us duly a|)))reciate our mnlniglit 
 bivouac. VVe had now reached I'oint M'Kinley, 
 uiion which was another I'isfpiiinaux village, but 
 
^ 
 
 .1 
 
 NARROW ESCAPE Of A SEAL. 
 
 (iK)st of the huts were falling to ruins, and apparently, 
 long desolate. Wnnciering about the settlement, we 
 obser\'ed the frame.-, of one or two ooniiaks and kiaks, 
 some harpoons liaving stone lieads ])0Uiid on vviih 
 sinews of the seal, paddles double and single bladed, 
 wooden scoops and hidles, pits for blubber, pieces of 
 w 1)0(1 drilled for producing tire, and tfie bones of 
 some small whales. There was also the earease of a 
 \volf, wlii(;h had, .ipiKUcintly', died from stanatiou. 
 A trifling circumstance occurred here which gave us 
 a hearty laugh ; a young seal j,rot entanghid in the nets 
 which we had laid out, and the fisiu.rmau- -a Canadian, 
 who had nt^vcr visited the sea before — imagiaed he 
 saw some horrible monster, anci let i) go in affright. 
 We were detained for two days at tliis place ; the ice 
 suriounded the j^ioint and entirely checked our ad- 
 vance. We had hoped to be at C'iipe Batlmrst by 
 the end of July, the 1st ot. August only savs us de- 
 parting fi'ont t: ■ spot 
 
 The plan upon which the present trip to the sea 
 had been undertaken may be briefly sketciied as 
 follows . — it was hoped that the season being favour- 
 able, the expedition, descending tjie Mackenzie, would 
 reach the sea about the ;23rd of July, and gain Capo 
 Bathurst in a few days. Thence it was intended to 
 strike right across iV)r BaJiks' La) id, a distance of 
 
 1 
 
 V * 
 
316 
 
 f'AIM". OAI-HOUSIK. 
 
 1 1 
 
 ijitlicr mojv than ;iOO iiiiles this accouipUshetl, lulurt; 
 operations wouUi liave t(t depend npon the contih- 
 gencies then arising. 
 
 It was not our good t'ortunc to achieve this gran<i 
 undiTtaking . the season vvas, as reganled ourselvjs, 
 most unfortunate : a succession of nortlierly winds 
 drove the ier dowji upon the sliores,, along wliieli 
 vs{! had to ])ass, and our days were frittered away 
 in vexatious detentions or useless toil amongst rugged 
 ice masses and shallow waters. 
 
 .Near Cape .Dalhousio, on tlu. ^rd of August, we 
 eneouutered the largest ice we had yet seen, aiirl 
 mounted to the top of one of the hunmioeks, fifty <>r 
 sixty feet high to look round ; as from the boats our 
 view was vivry <„ ,utraeted, and the ice being so closely 
 packed that but few " lanes " were visilde. In the 
 evening we Jiad to break through the pack to regain 
 
 the sh<»re, an occupation of three hours .evertist 
 labour, tluxigh the neck through whi<:h ">.'e strove 
 to pas.s was not more than tivf; hundred yitrds l)roa(l 
 but the ice was in large fields, or jointed together and 
 under-longued, and being all in motion reqmrctl 
 great niaiiagtnnent We remained at Cape Dalhousie. 
 which is on an island, fluring the 4th, and reached 
 Nicholson's Jsjand n<>.\t evening, having in the run 
 observ«Ml some grampuses, a few seals, and (piantUie^ 
 
' ill 
 
 u(i, fatun; 
 he contiii- 
 
 this grain i 
 ourselv<?vS, 
 crly wituls 
 lung wlik'h 
 tererl away 
 :i«r8t I'uggvrd 
 
 August, we 
 t seen, and 
 »rks,, tifty «»r 
 he boats our 
 iig so cliistJy 
 hie. lu tlic 
 ack to regaui 
 urs .'.everest 
 i;h "'ve strove 
 Vi^rds })roii(l 
 together and 
 ioi) requii'cd 
 i\)C Dalliousie, 
 and reached 
 <; in the run 
 lud (juantilies 
 
 tsgi l.MAl \ Wo.MKN, 
 
 m 
 
 of (lueks, whjeh hitter made a great uproar and 
 eonunotion. Ni'iholson's lj<land i.s liudi m some 
 
 pill- 
 
 ts, I sliould thhik loll {u -.iOU feet above the 
 
 sea. Partridges were in great uunihcrs but very 
 wild; besuh^s the-se tliere was ntjtliing to be found 
 except nnishrfjoms, vvhieli were very plentiful and 
 exeeiieut. Tlie c^ cnnig of ilu (Jth saw us at 
 
 Maitland Island , lie-re 
 
 VV( 
 
 found b 
 
 Esquimaux 
 
 women, an old and a voung one, the first of the 
 tribe seen on the trip. 'i'hey were (headhdly fright- 
 ened, ail I chattered away nneeasmgly Jimking signs 
 for us <o dt^jjart. ('aieiliatory gestures, liowever, 
 soon enina^d tlieir fears, antd the elder daine speedily 
 
 bticanie very frieiuJly perha|)^. uideed, u little too 
 
 fainilinr a."^ they werr liorrd)]y <hrtv both in person 
 and (h'css. There wns a httK' ditrerenee in their 
 (ostnme to those we liiid svi'v to tU« westward of 
 the Macken/ie , the younge)- woman had her hair 
 bound up in iiunieiise bows at the back of the he.'id ; 
 she wore a frock of .seal-skin, with f)ointed ends, 
 tight brci'ches, and l)oots of the same tnateiial. She 
 had an infan' which she nhvays cnrried v'lth her : 
 its wardrobe was very scanty indeed, but a large stock 
 of cloihes was. appan^ntly, unnecessary, as it was 
 genernlly snugly ensconced inside of its mother's 
 frock next to her skni, and secured from shpping 
 
 1 
 
 ) 
 
( -• 
 if 
 
 348 
 
 ESQUIMAUX NURSING. 
 
 
 
 ^ ,1 
 
 
 down by uneuns of a greasy leather cord wliich slie 
 wore as a girdle. The lullaby of an Fsquimaux niu's<> 
 is u performance curious as original. Having dis- 
 posed of h(U' infant in the manner just descrioed, 
 the mother goes about her other avocations, whicu 
 are always calling for performance, and while so 
 engaged, should the diminutive burden lindmg its 
 position trouT)lesome, or perhaps slightly ()p])rcssive, 
 presume to utter tries of discontent, it is very 
 summarilv huslied into silence. The mother moves 
 from cue foot to the other, at the same time striking 
 the poor infant with <.'ither hand aUernatelV; and 
 drnM Urig monotonously the umversRl TIi Yangali chant 
 of the Esipihuaux, thuii which few things could be 
 invented less devoid of au'mation or interest. No 
 wonder the hapless babe ceases its puerile lamenta- 
 tions on the instant. Our Tadians (who had never 
 before seen Esquimaux) did noi at all comprehend the 
 specimens before them, pHrticularly on the question of 
 sex, nor can this be a matter of surprise ; their as}>ects 
 were decidedly unfeminine, and so were their — it 
 must out — pantaloons. Quitting Point Mnitlanil on 
 the mor' ':r>g of the 8tli, we crossed Harrowby Iky, 
 and in the afternoon, when approachui^ ^'*'P'' 
 Rathurst, obsent'd twelve Kscpumaux tents, some of 
 large >ize, su rouiuied by crowds of natives. Neuily 
 
 b ; 
 
 ^1L4 
 
 
which slic 
 :iaux mu'sc 
 aving dis- 
 
 (lescriiHul, 
 [)iis, whicii 
 . while vso 
 tinduig its 
 oppressive, 
 it is very 
 thev moves 
 me striking 
 rmtely, aixl 
 angah chant 
 y& couhl be 
 iterest. No 
 ile hnnf-nta- 
 1 had never 
 rpreheiid the 
 e question of 
 ihv'iY aspects 
 jre their — it 
 
 Mciitland on 
 rrowby Bay, 
 vchin^ C'ape 
 outs, some of 
 ives. Ne^uly 
 
 ^'' 
 
 •fl 
 
 ;i| 
 
i. ;: 
 
 ■I ; 
 
 
 • }■ 
 
 1 ' ' 
 
 1 \ 
 
 ' 
 
 i'^ 
 
 ■u 
 
 
 i 
 
 i 1 , 
 
 ■j' i 
 
 \\ ' 
 
 X 
 < 
 
 ~i 
 
 o 
 en 
 
 X 
 
 i 
 
 o 
 
 I- 
 
 UJ 
 
 S 
 
 to 
 cc 
 a 
 
 X 
 
 < 
 
 CO 
 
 u 
 
 0. 
 
 < 
 
 '>i* i 
 
^ 
 
 7/ 
 
 AMICABLE DISPOSITION OV NATIVES, 
 
 349 
 
 ^ 
 
 M. 
 
 A. ■ 
 
 o 
 en 
 
 2 
 
 S 
 
 H 
 W 
 cc 
 
 3 
 X 
 
 I— 
 
 < 
 
 a::i 
 
 < 
 
 twenty kiaks and several ooniiaks pushed off from the 
 shore, the Avomen, with wliich ttie latter were crowded, 
 shouting and vociferating in high glee Their dis- 
 orderly nierrhnent knew no bounds, and although 
 they appeared to entertain only friendly sentiments, it 
 was necessary to repress a too great faniihaiity. We 
 were quite overwhelmed by their amicable demonstra- 
 tions ; the single boats Inuig upon the gunwales of 
 our craft, the oomiaks got athwart our bows., and the 
 crews of each threw in pell mell n % fish, skins, 
 dresses, or whatever else they possessed. These were, 
 however, aU rejected; we consented to receive only 
 upon barter, but even on this point had some 
 embarrassment, one of the dames being about to 
 despatch her husband to us with her nifant, either as 
 a present, or in exchange for some coveted commodity. 
 We landed to dine in a small l)ay at some distance 
 from the camp ; the men only acciompanied us hither, 
 the women and children in their oomiaks having 
 returned to their tents. The very friendly demeanour 
 of our new ac(]uaintances seemed to render all pre- 
 caution urmecessary ; but we had learned a grave 
 lesson on our first trip, ami were always very guarded 
 in our intercourse with Esquimaux. Here, while we 
 dined, a boundary line was drawn according to our 
 custom upon the sand, but it was too far from our 
 
:m\ 
 
 TIIK BOD N I) A I, V I, INK. 
 
 ■ *» li 
 
 ^ t. > 
 
 ':| 
 
 
 i . 
 
 ,4 
 
 position to please our frit nds , tlujy «ijew iiiiotlier 
 nearer, to wliicli tlu'y tlieii advaiu'ed, but not n foot 
 passed beyond it, and uli united in a song, oiiu of 
 them leading, beating time vvitli lii.s knife and spoon 
 in place of a drum, and moving his feet also to tjie 
 measure. 1 now for the tirst time heard word.s m the 
 song, and these were apparently not imj)roviseil, as 
 th<^ whole j)arty took up the same word at every 
 panse, but the refrain wjis tiiC old original, Hi Yangali, 
 yah, rah. 
 
 By the time that we iuid lonelnded our meal and 
 embarked the oomiaks had rejoined us, now bearing 
 ti nts and all possessions, for it does not take an 
 Esquuuaux family long to remove their sunnuer 
 mansion and change their residence. Wt^ encampe-d 
 in the evcjiing upon the larger of the Raillie Islands, 
 and were \evy sorry to find heavy ice crowding its 
 shores, and, by the reports of the Ks(junnaux, of 
 whom about ten men remamed with us, it would 
 ^;ntirely impede our passage to the i-astward. During 
 this day wo saw two black whales, the first seen on 
 the trip. 
 
 These Esquimaux were very intelligent: vivacious 
 curiosity replaced the apathetic air which I liad 
 generally noticed in others of the tribe ; each and every 
 of our proceedings was investigated with a view to its 
 
 r . > 
 
 n r 
 
CHAHV. \KTKR " HIU'IN. 
 
 851 
 
 I ! 
 
 V illlOtllCV 
 
 iot 11 tool 
 n^, one of 
 tiiul spoon 
 Iso t,o tlio 
 )ids m tlit> 
 irovisi'il, us 
 (I at evi ry 
 1i Yiui'i;ali, 
 
 ir iiiuul and 
 ou I tearing 
 u)t take ))H 
 cir sununcr 
 e cncauij)e(l 
 illie Islands, 
 froAvding its 
 iiiuinianx, of 
 lis, it would 
 ird, Dunng 
 Krst seen on 
 
 lit: vivacious 
 
 A'hii'li I liad 
 
 acli ami every 
 
 a view to its 
 
 coniprelieiision, and a ready talent for mimicry was 
 displayed VViifing puzzled our friends wonderfullv, 
 a number of them sat in our tent watcinng me as I 
 wrote, looking alternatciv at the ehiiraeiers, mv pen, 
 fingers, jind face, as if to seek tlie clue to the mystery 
 by their connection. We p\isiied on along the shore 
 of the island for some time on the !»th, l.-.i ; ,v. ;'e 
 • Minnbered by tin; heavy lee, iv i JiDaiir 
 
 inu 
 
 bec( ' »mi)letely chec-ked by it, latuhid, and 
 
 cncti ipetl anfiw. On n( aring the shore we saw a 
 huge bear trot off from the beueh ; our hunters went 
 in chase, but without seeing hi,n, and we gave up 
 all hope of Bruin's reappearance. A number of the 
 Es(|uimanx, of both sexes, joined us here, and were 
 friendly as ever • they had predicted that we should 
 not be able to proceed anv further at present, and a 
 view of the sea to the north and east loo truly con- 
 firmed their statement. Ice rugged, mnssive and 
 compact, lay like a forest of crystal pinnacles close 
 down upon, and around the islands, e\ten(hng to 
 seaward, far as tlu; vision ranged. In the afternoon 
 an Esquimaux woman joined us who had seen the 
 bear on the top of the island, and in her fright had 
 taken to the soft mud banks, through which she had 
 trudged middle deep She was in a pretty pickle ; 
 but we ungallantly paid less attention to her condition 
 
 ^1: 
 
 I 
 
IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 1.0 
 
 I.I 
 
 1^128 |2.5 
 
 m 
 
 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 Corporation 
 
 4^ A^I^ 
 
 lb 
 
 y.i^ 
 
 /a 
 
 
 1-25 U ||.6 
 
 
 < 
 
 6" ■ 
 
 ► 
 
 4^ 
 
 4. 
 
 ;-f 
 
 \ 
 
 <^ 
 
 ^\ Wr^ 
 
 M 
 
 "^^l^/^ 
 
 ^.V^ 
 
 33 WIST MAIN STREIT 
 
 WIBSTER.N.Y. 14S80 
 
 (716) •73-4S03 
 
 '^ 
 

 i 
 
 
mmm 
 
 86» 
 
 BEAR-HUN'f. 
 
 :{• i 
 
 1; I 
 
 in 
 
 than to the information she brought, and the united 
 forces of Esquimaux and Whites turned out in pursuit 
 of the hirsute quadruped. 
 
 The brute was discovered on a huge mass of ice, 
 which, with others, had grounded at some distance from 
 the beach ; one party started in the " Logan " to cut 
 off his retreat by sea ; another, which I joined, made 
 for the summit of the bank, which we hoped he would 
 endeavour to ascend. First blood was drawn by our 
 party ; a ball from my fowling-^ liece struck him in the 
 shoulder, and he fell for an instant on the ice and 
 began to suck his paw, which made us think it was 
 there he had been wounded. Speedily rising, he ran 
 on along the hummock, taking to the water and 
 chmbing the sides of the masses of ice with the 
 utmost indifference and ease. Our hunters (Indians 
 are always excellent marksmen) now paid him some 
 attention ; they hit him several times, but did not 
 succeed in turning him : he attempted at last to swim 
 to seaward, and would doubtless have succeeded, but 
 for a new opponent. One of the Esquimaux, 
 launching his kiak, followed the bear, and at close 
 proximity discharged arrow after arrow into his body. 
 This was the most exciting part of the hunt. Each 
 time that an arrow pierced its body the poor animal 
 seized the missile, if within reach, in its teeth, and 
 
KILLING A 13KAK 
 
 853 
 
 strove to wrench it from the wound, generally however 
 breaking it short : then would it turn fiercely on its 
 persecutor, who, skilfully manoeuvring his hght boat, 
 hung at two or three yards' distance only on his rear ; 
 so close were they indeed that the man deliberately 
 sj)la8hed water with his double-bladed paddle into 
 poor Bruin's face, just backing gently to be clear of 
 his paws, a single stroke from which would quite have 
 reversed the fortune of the combat : when, after a 
 hunt, which lasted about foiu* hours, the animal 
 received its final death stroke by a ball through the 
 brain from the " Logan ; " he was stm;k all over with 
 arrows, and looked like a barbecued pig. By the 
 laws of savage venery, first blood always decides the 
 captor, and the Esqiumaux readily recognised the rule 
 in the present instance, indicating that the prize 
 belonged to the Kabloonnn. Of course the carcase 
 was divided, but I stipulated for, and obtained, the 
 skin, which 1 still possess as a trophy. An hour 
 afterwards 1 ate a bear steak. The Es(juimaux who 
 had so importantly cjiitvibuted to the cupture was 
 rewarded with a large broad dagger (a very awkward 
 weapon in his hands) and srJonie other trifling presents, 
 and was delighted with his good fortune. This little 
 episode served to while away part of the time of our 
 vexatious delay ; the Escpiimaux were constantly with 
 
 r,! 
 
 
 U 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 ■\ 
 
 
 1 '. 
 
 
 i i 
 
 i 
 
 : 1- 
 
 t 
 
 ', 
 
 Mi' 
 
354 
 
 PICKPOCKETS. 
 
 US, and never showed the shghtest signs of unfriend- 
 Hness. They were, however, most expert thieves, and 
 we had many a laugh at their efforts to victimise us 
 in this way. One fellow put a silver spoon up his 
 sleeve, another buried the frying-|)an (ah, cruel 
 attempt), and a third joker was detected endeavouring 
 to smuggle away about his person one of the fishing 
 nets (only 40 fathoms long). Our pockets were as 
 much the property of our friends as of ourselves, but 
 the most extraordinary circumstance of all was that 
 when upon missing any article we inquired for it 
 among our friends, it was immediately restored. 1 
 suppose they oidy desired to tfike care of our goods 
 for us. . 
 
 On the loth we quitted the island and encamped 
 on the main land a few milt^s from the Cape. Time 
 was a tent here containing an Esquimaux man and 
 four women ; they approached us with some slight 
 hesitation, but become reassured by our conciliatory 
 words and gestui' and by the distribution of 
 presents. W(: had brought some vermilion with 
 ns. knowing tiie partiality evinced for this material, 
 and 1 nf,>w bedaubed the faces of our friends in 
 artistic style. 
 
 After dinner we endeavoured to beat up for (Ja])e 
 JBathurst, and f»n passing abreast of the K[ist and 
 
irE-BOtmi). 
 
 355 
 
 unfriend- 
 ievcs, and 
 ctirnise us 
 m up his 
 ah, cruel 
 leavouring 
 he fishing 
 s were as 
 selves, but 
 I was that 
 red for it 
 ■stored. 1 
 our goods 
 
 encamped 
 )e. Tliere 
 : man and 
 ;ome slight 
 conciliatory 
 ribution of 
 nilion witli 
 lis material, 
 
 friends in 
 
 up for Ca])e 
 le Kast and 
 
 i 
 
 smaller Baillie Islands, observed upon it twenty tents, 
 surrounded by Esquimaux, who took to their boats 
 and surrounded us in crowds, with shouts and screams 
 of delight. Indeed our visit appeared to cause quite 
 a festival. The elders of the party warned us that 
 we should find no passage, but they nevertheless lent 
 their aid in gvuding us towards the Cape, leading 
 the way in their kiaks, and soimding with tlieir 
 paddles to indicate the channel, for here shoals 
 ran out a long distanc(! from the mainland towards 
 the islands. Gaining with difficulty, by tortuous 
 winding through heavy masses of rugged ice, a 
 position on the northern side of the spit lying imder 
 the Cape, we had a full view of the impossibility 
 of a present advance, — 
 
 " The ice was hei'o, the ice was there, 
 Thf> ice vrm all nrnuml." 
 
 Pressing down upon the shore of the island, upon the 
 spit, the Cape, and into Franklin Bay, it spread thence 
 to seaward in masses heai)ed tumultuously, sparkUng 
 and shimmering in the sunshine^ each crystallised point 
 evolving hues of the prism, Not a, lane, not a 
 breach appeare<l ; a barrier as of stone lay between us 
 and our desired route. We remained in the neigh- 
 bourhood for several days, watching if perhaps a 
 
 :1 
 
 f 5 
 
 \i i 
 
 A'AA 
 
S56 
 
 OUIl COMPl'I.SORY RETURN. 
 
 ■ I 
 
 favourable turn of wind or current might drive 
 the ice ofii shore and afford a passage for advance. 
 But such good fortune was not ours, and it was at 
 length resolved to turn our boats' heads once more 
 towards the Mackenzie. Those who have fixed theii 
 ardent hopes on the attainment of some distant goal, 
 who in the pursuit have unheedingly encountered toil, 
 privation, weariness, and countless inconveniences, 
 and who have finally been forced to relinquish their 
 desires, will be able to enter into the sentiments of 
 chagrin and disappointment which jwssessed our souls 
 when " to return " was spoken. 
 
 During our sojourn here the Esquimaux were 
 constantly with us, and accepted without hesitation 
 our friendly professions. No lingering distriist was 
 ever apparent ; if the men were absent in the chase 
 by sea or land, the women and children were around 
 and about us in unrestrained communication, and 
 affording us all the assistance in their power. Their 
 curiosity ;iiul pilfering propensities were the only 
 annoyances to which we w(!re subjected ; of the latter 
 I have already s{)oken ; to satisfy the former we had 
 much ado -. oiu" clothes, beards, and possessions, were 
 all unsparingly handled, and the Esfjuimaux ladies 
 don't ahvays have clean hands. Oii« of the young 
 men of the tribe had a wound in Ins juni which he 
 
UOSTILITV BETWEEN KSt^l IMALX AN J) INDIANS 357 
 
 ht drive 
 advance. 
 t was at 
 nee more 
 ixed tlieir 
 tant goal, 
 tered toil, 
 veniences, 
 [uisli their 
 iments of 
 i our souls 
 
 aux were 
 hesitation 
 
 strust was 
 the chase 
 re around 
 
 ation, and 
 
 er. Their 
 the only 
 
 )f the latter 
 
 ner we had 
 sions, were 
 
 liaux ladies 
 the young 
 
 iu which he 
 
 displayed to me, with a r((|uest that I would hlow on 
 it. As it was unclean and festering, [ opened il with 
 the lancet, washed and dressed it, and dismissed my 
 patient with assurance of the speedy improvement of 
 th? hurt. This did not suffice however ; the wounded 
 limb was again extended, and I was entreated to blow 
 upon it, which as it was considered so indispensable 
 to recovery I of course proceeded to do ; the man 
 immediately fetched an arrow, which he tendt;red for 
 my acceptance in return for my fritindly offices, and 
 seemed to doubt the efficacy of the charm he had 
 insisted upon my performing when I gently refused 
 his gift. 
 
 From causes not clearly ex])lained, our Indian 
 hunters were in perpetual feai- of our Esqunnaux 
 friends. No doubt the hostility long existing between 
 the races influenced them greatly, and I rather think 
 they had been truly uiformed respectmg the collision 
 which had lately occurred near I'oint Separation, and 
 of which some Indians had told us on our descent of 
 the Mackenzie : but, as we subse(piently learnt, with 
 details and exaggeration which had completely per- 
 verted the aspect of the atJ'air : if this was the case, 
 I do not wonder at theu alarm lest the treacherous 
 conduct of their own people should be visited u})on 
 them. From whatever cause it 0(;eurr'd, the fact is 
 
358 
 
 DISAPPEARANCE OF TWO IIINTERS, 
 
 I i 
 
 
 ' i 
 
 I' n 
 
 ccTtiuii, that our forest brethren were ever in 
 fear and agitation, during our sojouni among the 
 sea-coast race. They used to go off to hunt, but 
 always togetlier, and never strayed far, so that we 
 were nnicli surprised on the morning of tlie 13th, to 
 learn that Kurias and Louison had been al>8ent all 
 night, having departed on the pre \ ions evening in 
 the hope of finding a deer. Greatly puzzled were 
 all to account for their mysterious absence, particularly 
 as the day wore on, and tliey did not return. Three 
 conjectu I es divided tlic opinions of the party: — First, 
 that they had possibly fallen upon tiie track of deer, 
 and in the ardour of piirsnit been carried fartlier tliun 
 they intended, or lost the right direction in which to 
 return; but this view was imperatively negatived by 
 some, who urged, and truly, that in their native 
 forests an Indian never by any chance misses his 
 way ; they forgot that here the case was widely dif- 
 ferent , that of the many tokens which, by irstinctive 
 and educational observj<tion, guide these children of 
 ujiture in traversing their own woods, here they luul 
 few or none. 
 
 The next supposition was, that irresistibly inciti^d 
 l)y their tears of the Ksrpiimaux, to which we were 
 no strangers, they had suddenly deserted the party 
 with the intention of gaining the banks of the 
 
AND t.l'EC'ULATlUNS ON TilE CAUSE. 
 
 350 
 
 3 ever m 
 mong the 
 hunt, but 
 o that we 
 e 13th, to 
 al>8ent all 
 evening in 
 zzled were 
 purtieulnrly 
 n. Three 
 ty •.—First, 
 jk of (leer, 
 artlier lliun 
 n which to 
 ^gatived by 
 heir native 
 misses iiis 
 widely (lit- 
 / ii'stinctivc 
 ! ehildren of 
 ire they had 
 
 tibly ineitiid 
 ich we were 
 !d the party 
 jnks of the 
 
 "Inconnu" River, resj)eeting whose distance and 
 direction from our position they had, strange to say, 
 more than once intjuired, and which stream one of 
 them had frequently hunted upon and knew very 
 well. There were many arguments both for and 
 against this view : their evident fears — their sudden 
 departure, and their having full honis of powder on 
 the one side : on the other, the improbability of their 
 quitting us in an unknown position, and the facts, 
 still more significant, that they had taken with them 
 neither extra mocassins nor a large store of tobacco, 
 and an Indian never likes to undertake a journey 
 unprovided in these respects. 
 
 Another conjecture was started, but we could not 
 bear to entertain it long. It was, that the poor 
 fellows had been followed by some among the Esqui- 
 maux, waylaid and assassinated; but, independently 
 of tlie distressing nature of this idea, it did not bear 
 the stamp of probability, as the Esquimaux had never 
 swei'ved from their ;tndly demonstrations to all, 
 jior evinced the slightest dislike to the Indians espe- 
 cially ; indeed, I nnieh doubt whether they were 
 acqaainted, except by vague rumour, with the enmity 
 existing between the Indians and those of their own 
 tribe frequenting the mouth of the Ma(;kenzie, and 
 probably did not ev<ni know that our wanderers 
 
 
 m 
 
uo 
 
 UKTl'RN OF PHK WANDKRKRH. 
 
 hi 
 
 l)t!loiigt!(l to tliiit lociility. So \ui hoped tliia thought 
 ru5urlv awiiy. 1 was dcsputched with two men, inland, 
 to sock for trat^os of tlu; missing, >)ut found none ; 
 tlicv did not return during tlie 13th, and we became 
 very grr'atly alarmed. A longer trip was taken next 
 morning to look for thc^m, but unavailingly as beft)rt', 
 and we ha<i begun to consider of the best course 
 to be adopted towards tlunr discovery, wlion late 
 in the afternoon the wanderers woie descried in 
 the distance, and soon regained tlie camp, shoeless, 
 foot-sore, faint, and famishing. As we had waited 
 only for the return of the Indians to break up our 
 camp and de{)art, the orders to do so were speedily 
 given, and biddinjr farewell to the Escpiimaux, we 
 embarked and, turning our backs upon (Jape Bathurst, 
 set out on return to the Mackenzie. 
 
 When interrogated as to the reasons for their 
 ])rotracted absence, our Indians informed us that 
 they had fired at and broken the leg of a deer, and 
 in the heat of pursuit followed it right across to 
 the shore of Franklin's Bay, when* only they dis. 
 covered that they had taken th(; wrong direction, 
 and were, in fact, on the opposite side of the point 
 to our position. 
 
 We told them how mxtn 
 
 iband 
 
 oiunt 
 
 rowly they ha 
 nt ; that It had been deter 
 
 nuiu 
 
 (iapei 
 d f 
 
 o 
 
CATHK VV OIU SKl';VK\TM»\ 
 
 'M} 
 
 «lt'|mrt iirxt morning il they «lid not n^tuni, mid 
 we asked thorn wlmt tlioy slioiilil luivc done in such 
 a cma. 
 
 "We should have (hijjj a holi-, lain down and dird," 
 sai(i they. 
 
li 
 
 il 
 
 I 
 I, 
 I 
 
 CHAPTER XXT. 
 
 lleturn Voynge.— Farewell to Eaquiinaux.- A NHtiN»> Hwoll Mnbaman. - 
 Beaufort, I'ullen. uihI Hooimr IhIuikU. — " Lovi.vN " Kmewel! Pert 
 MThors'iii. Horviblt^ MiiMmicio o* 'Isiniiiuimx. Uetlortioim n]im its 
 jifiibaulo i'on'*C(iuiiui!»'« — AHCt'iit ()< Mackeii/.in I'onol.ioriitivi. (,'()ii 
 fetsioii I'f MiUiiiol Udlioit.- Arrival at Fork Siiupson - Uoiiiwks on 
 tlw late F.x)n>ilitu.ii. ArningoiuDUtH for wiuloring.- I'MJtiol of ooM 
 upon Metal. - I^iiiuriou.-i Diet.- loo "notK fa«t." -A uairow Emajic— 
 DtJUgeJ I'tojutUoc'S. 
 
 \Vk uncainpiMl in the i?v<'iiiii}jj ttcar the spot wlu-re 
 our first imtctiiig with tliis larj^i- hand <tf .KHcjuimaux 
 had (tcciirrcd, niid wt'rt' joined some time after arrival 
 by a sjnall party vhich, inore attaclied to us tluui 
 the rest, or possibly (luielmntablii thouglit), in tin; 
 hope of gaining furth«T |)resents, had followed to see 
 the last of us, Tliey reniain<;d with us diu'ing the 
 night, to tlie very great diseonifitiu'e of the Indiujis, 
 whose fears were so nuieh excited by tit ir ])res(Mice, 
 that, notwithstanding the intcns*; fatigue they had 
 lately undergone, oiu; of them, more nervous than his 
 eom])anion, refused to lie down to sleej), but kept 
 wateh b»;side (jur camp-fire. Th<^ farewells interehangecl 
 betw*. 'Ji oiu'selves and the few Es(pnmaux who had 
 
 
II Mobsman. - 
 ''t\i«\veli. ■ ('%•!'♦ 
 ntioiiB vtpoii its 
 olioriitivo Ton 
 ,. - IlBinwkfl ou 
 ICtWl of toM 
 irow Em'ttpe.-- 
 
 hpot wluTC 
 
 Ks([\unmu\ 
 it'tcr arrival 
 to us tlmn 
 r\\\), in tin- 
 owed to stv 
 iluring tl\i' 
 III' liuliuns, 
 ir presence, 
 e thev Imil 
 Dus tlmii his 
 p, Init ]\v\){ 
 intevehiiii<2;e(l 
 \ix vvlio had 
 
 
 t 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 FAHEWjiLh TO KHl^IJIMAl X. 
 
 SOS 
 
 O 
 
 iullovted to witnoHS our tiuul ilepjirture on tiic jnorning 
 of the )r)th, ver»' interest ill^ and indicative of th«^ 
 two rfiees and their relati\o positions, l^resents were 
 appointed to each of the natives, and we exphuned 
 to tiieni, as well as we could, our ^vatification ut the 
 reception we had met with, and the good nature 
 and amicable b<'aring they had displayed. A long 
 ration, gesticiilatory emphatic, wils delivered in reply 
 )iy one of the wouien : it was clearly valedictory, i%» 
 well as eulogistic of the (U-parting Kabloouan, wliose 
 general ih'signation (igiired largely in the discourse, 
 logt'ther with frecpuMit allusion to particular indivi- 
 duals of both parties, and to the sun, skies, sea, 
 whales, and other objects. They asked us when we 
 should return, and we named ten moons as the period 
 which must ela))se ere a new visit could be made. 
 
 It would be waste of time to ent(!r upon the details 
 of our rt;turn-j«Mirncy, which, like the outward trip, 
 was a series of discomfort and toil. Gales, rain, snow, 
 shallow water, heavy ice, u freezing temperature and 
 wretched food — these tell our talc i^omprehensively. 
 
 A few small whales were seen (1 never saw large 
 ones nor met with their bones upon the coast) and near 
 Point M'Kinley we found an Esfpiimaux family, of 
 which the father was as exy)ert in theft as one of our 
 own dear swell-mol) : he abstracted a knife, inch by 
 
 f ■■ 
 
 
364 
 
 ('l,JiVEK THJEVINU. 
 
 'i 
 
 \rh 
 
 ' if< 
 
 inch, from tluj belt of one of our men with celerity 
 and skill which deserved the liighest credit, and 
 disposed of his booty up his sleeve with tlie most 
 unconcerned iiir. I had w^atciied his proceedings 
 throughout in great annisemeiit, and our friend was 
 greatly disconcerted when his arm was grasped, and 
 the retention of the blade in the act revealed me a 
 witness to his cul}){fbility. At I'oker l\)int, vvhen? 
 we had laiuled on the 25th of .Inly, and deposited 
 sonic trijikets and a hieroglyphic despatch, the dwell- 
 ings were now surrounded by natives, who had 
 evidently discovered and compreliended our tokens, 
 and were eager for us to halt and visit them. 
 
 They shouted to us, and waved clothes from the 
 tops of their dwellings, hut we had a tine lair bree/e 
 and could not delay. On this evening, two l"is(pii- 
 maux approa(.'h«!d oiu' encampment, near Refuge Cove, 
 but displayed unaccountable signs <^f tr»'piilation ami 
 alarm, and needed considerable coaxing and [iromises 
 of ])resents to induce thein to enter the camp; thc^y 
 remained near us ail night. Itut it must ha\(' been 
 in great doubt of our intentions, for they threw up 
 a shght breastwork of driftwood, behind which th«> 
 lay, and, on our preparing to ilepart next morning, 
 scampered off to a distance [ind resumed their bows 
 and arrows, whi« h, it seems, thcv had concealed nii 
 
 i:. 
 
WE ABANDON THE " LOGAN." 
 
 305 
 
 I 
 
 7-:-?' 
 
 3 
 
 their first approach On tlie 2;ird we passed the 
 easternmost channel of. the Mackenzie, and gained 
 one of the islands wt^ had before discovered. It 
 wo?, called after the good Sir Francis Bean fort,* hydro- 
 grapher of the navy, a name universally honoured 
 throughout Europe Next day we lauded on another 
 of our discoveries, a large island, whose summit was 
 upwards of a hundred feet from the sea: this will 
 henceforth be known as ]loo])ei" Island. To the north- 
 ward we observed, but did not land upon, another 
 island, which was called "Pidlen," after our com- 
 mander. On the ^fitli we proceeded to the westward, 
 and passing Pelly Island, landed on Garry Island 
 for the night. Next day we steered to the southward 
 and sought for a ciia,nnel, whereby to ascend the 
 Mjickenzie, failing in which we proceeded to the; 
 westward, and after nu)re than one disa[»pointment 
 and difficulty, finally <'iitered the river on the 31st, 
 ]>y the channel we bad discovered last year, and hahed 
 near the spot which had before received us. 
 
 Here was the " Logan ' doomed. Two seasons of 
 employiru^nt and severe trial had left her \u a sad 
 plight ; she had become sorely shattered and ice-torn : 
 it was therefore resolved to abandon her here, as 
 otherwise she would only uselessly delay oiu" ascent of 
 
 * All" I siiico named Rae Iwhiod. ' 
 
 ill 
 
 I 'il 
 
ASCENT OF THE MACKENZIE. 
 
 vri' 
 
 
 the stream: but in return for faithful service in 
 arduous undertakings — in cominenioration of many 
 scenes of toil and privation through which she and 
 our little band had passed — she was deposited with 
 care and ceremony in her last resting-place. 
 
 On the left bank of the Mackenzie in latitude 
 68° 44' 25" N„ longitude 13."/ 44' 42" W., was 
 upreaied the " Logan," overlooking that element 
 whose bosom she had so often pressed in storm 
 and in tranquilhty ; resting upon ice, to whose rude 
 shocks she was no stranger, and supported in her 
 upright position by shores of drift-timber, such as 
 had marked, tor many a mile, the coast along which 
 she had passed. 1 planted a few flowers in the 
 mould which had been placed in the end which wsis 
 embedded in the ground ; may each succeeding 
 spring behold them blossom anew. 
 
 Our ascent of the Mackenzie varied little from 
 the same journey last year, and, strange to say, we 
 again entered the Peel River unintentionally, although 
 endeavouring to iivoid it, but the numerous chaimels 
 below Point Separation are provocative of error. On 
 the 7th of September Fort M'Pherson v^as reached, 
 and we were welcomed by Mr. Akxaudej- M'Kenzie, 
 the officer of the Hudson's Bay Company, in tem- 
 porary chtarge of the post. Here I received, from the 
 
lervice in 
 
 of many 
 
 L she and 
 
 ;ited with 
 
 I latitude 
 W., was 
 ; element 
 in storm 
 hosc! rude 
 ,ed in her 
 ?, such as 
 ong whicli 
 ;rs in the 
 which was 
 succeeding 
 
 httle fi'om 
 ,0 say, w^e 
 y, althoujjjh 
 IS chaimels 
 error. On 
 as reached, 
 M'Kenzie, 
 »y, in tem- 
 i, from the 
 
 r' 
 
 ' 
 
 
 : 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 MASSACRE OP ESQUIMAUX. 
 
 367 
 
 Hps of a witness (in part concerned in the affair), a do- 
 tailed account of tlie occm-rence which had been vaguely 
 communicated to us by some Indians, during our 
 descent of the Mackenzie in July last, and which 
 was now proved to have been an atrocious and 
 treacherous massa<3re of a party of unoffending Esqui- 
 maux by some of the Loucheux, aidtd — I blusli to 
 say — by one bearing a white skin, vvhicji was eternally 
 dishonou)'ed in his peison. On the breaking up of 
 the ice in the spring of 1850, a boat coniuining four 
 white men — Manuel, steersman ^Fiench Canadian), 
 M'Kay, Sanderson, and Brown i (Orkney men); and two 
 Indians, left Tort Good Hope, on the Mackenzie, to 
 proceed to Fort M'Fhcrson, the station on Hie Peel 
 River. They were detained by the stoppage of the 
 ice, which tretpiently becomes checked in its descent 
 after breaking up, and were in some distiess lor 
 food, but fortunately shot son^e g(x;se, which migrate 
 hitherward in the spring. At Point Separation they 
 landed for a sliort time, some of the party being 
 desirous of inspecting the carZ/e of provisions wliich 
 had been placetl there by Sir John Richardson. 
 Point Separation is nearly the highest spot to which 
 the Esquimaux ever now^ ascend, and it oceiu'ted that 
 just at the time the j)arty beached ihe'ii boat among 
 the masses of ice which lined the shore, they espied 
 
 ii 
 
 II 
 
 ■■■I 
 
 ■: it 
 
 l\ 
 
 i I 
 
 . 1 ; 
 
W ! 
 
 iV I I 
 
 sea 
 
 MASSACRE OP ESQUIMAUX. 
 
 an Esquimaux approaching in his canofj, threa '.inghis 
 wjiy through the lanes left by the ice ; others followed 
 him until ten persons were coimted. Manuel, either 
 from fright or wjmtontiess — most probably the former 
 — desired to fire upon this party, but was more than 
 once ])revented by M'Kay, who turned aside the 
 nuizzlu of his gim, and entreated hun to forbear, 
 until they should display a hostile intention. Manuel 
 consented to reserve his tire for awhile, until M'Kay 
 should run back for a short distance to st^e if a 
 band of Loucheux approached, as they knew they 
 could not be far off. At a short distance behind, 
 M'Kay found the Indians who ware paddling leisurely 
 along, but who, on receipt of the intelligence, could 
 not, as my informant said, come fast enough, but 
 lightly hauling their bark canoes on shore, ran along 
 the beach to the sj)ot. The Loucheux were fourteen 
 in luimber ; each man carried his gun, and three more 
 fiie-arms were in the possession of the Fort Good 
 Hoj)e party ; the Esquimaux had only their bows and 
 arrows. Upon the commencement of a parley, and 
 >vhen invited to approach, the chief, or eldest of the 
 Es([uimaux, desired the Indians to put their guns 
 aside, and his request being complied with, he paddled 
 in to within a few yards of tlie beach and hred all 
 hi.s arrows into the ground in a circle, then held up 
 
reo Ung bis 
 rs followed 
 uel, either 
 the former 
 more than 
 aside the 
 ^,0 forbear, 
 . Manuel 
 itil M'Kay 
 ) see if ji 
 knew they 
 ce behind, 
 ig leisurely 
 ence, could 
 lOugh, but 
 , ran along 
 re fourteen 
 three more 
 Fort Good 
 r bows and 
 )arley, and 
 lest of the 
 their guns 
 ht? paddled 
 d iired all 
 len held up 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 I J 
 
 ; 
 
 INDIAN BAI«TR«. 
 
 369 
 
 his bow and empty (juiver to show that he had no 
 more. His example was followed !)y the otliers in 
 succession, aiid tra(h? was . hen instituted between the 
 parties ; buttons, knives, &e., heiug bartered by the 
 Indians in exchange for trinkets of ho\w and ivory, 
 furs, &('. When tlie stock of the Esciuimaux was 
 nearly exhausted, and business liegan to sL'tcken, two 
 of the Ks(|iiimaux departed to brn>t>' up tUv larger 
 boat (i.e. oomiak) which contained the women, and 
 more furs, &c. As these did not return (juickly, two 
 more of the ))arty departed to hasten their aiTival, 
 leaving only six Es(piiniaux l'lu> Loucheux being 
 apparently apprehensive thai the remaiiuler of the 
 band would also go away, inviterl them to go on shore, 
 while waiting for their boat, and have a dance; to 
 this they acceded, l)nt hmded on the ojiposite side of 
 a small crtn^^k. whicli divided the l)snik at this spot. 
 The old chief was the first \xho stepptnl on shore, 
 and as he did so, he pulled otV his tVock, and appear- 
 ing only in breeches and mocassins, held U]j his arms 
 and slayjped his body to sjiou that he carried no 
 weapons : his companions did the same, and Loucheux 
 and Esqujmanv then began to dance on opposite sides 
 of the creek, (lood feeling appenred to he tirmly 
 pstabhshed, but presently, I\['Kay, vvho with Manuel 
 was looking on, observed one of the Ijoucheux 
 
 li « 
 
 ' i 
 
 < ■ 
 
 '^1 
 
 n 
 
 I 
 
 i- i 
 
!r \ t 
 
 ■\' 
 
 ' 1 
 
 '. ; 
 
 \ 1. 
 
 %n 
 
 FNDIAN MASSACRE. 
 
 skulking rourul the ice, trailing liis gun after liini, at 
 full cock. He made him take his gun back, and 
 " gave him a good scolding," but on going to the 
 guns which were placed at a distance on the bank he 
 found them all at full cock, and shortly saw more of 
 the Indians stealing round under cover of the willows 
 to endeavour to get behind the Es(juimaux ; he 
 stopped these, but observed that, notwithstanding, half 
 only of the Indians were dancing to engage the 
 attention of the Esquimaux, while the rest were 
 seeking to fall upon them in the rear. He called on 
 Manuel to aul him in preventing the accomplishment 
 of this treacherous design, but Manuel replied that if 
 they wanted to kill them he should not stop them, 
 but would rather push them on; that it was no business 
 of theirs, &c. Failing to interest his own comrade in 
 averting the catastrophe, M'Kay addressed himself to 
 one of the chiefs of the Indians and threatened him 
 with the anger of the Company's officer at the neigh- 
 bouring post if this act were perpetrated : the Indian 
 promised that they would not fire at them, and M'Kay 
 hoped he had succeeded in stopping the murderous 
 deed. The weather was at this time chilly, and as 
 M'Kay had slipped into the water on landing, he ran 
 off to a fire which the other two men of his [)arty had 
 made at a little distance, as he was now quite satisfied 
 
 if 
 
TVDIAN' MASSACRK. 
 
 .371 
 
 that no evil was iiitiMidf^d. Tic liiul not ivarlicd his 
 companions when Jie heard a shot, .succeeded imniedi- 
 fttely by others, and before he could return to the 
 spot he had so lat('ly left ' the placi' was all one 
 smoke," and four of the poor deceived Esquimaux lay 
 stretched upon the sand ; the other two ran to their 
 canoes and escajjed before the second vollev was tired, 
 though both were wounrlcd l>y the first dif>cluuge. 
 The Loncheux no\v tiied arro\vs into those who 
 remained , one of these had got ijtito the \vater after 
 Vicing woiuided, and ncnv stro\e to shelter himself 
 behind a piece of drift wood, diving under it. as the 
 arrows flew at liim ; this jwoi fellow tliey finished with 
 their guns and lie sank, but the otlnTs they gashed 
 and nuitilated, cutting the sinews under the arms and 
 laying those hmbs over their heads. When, shortly 
 afterwards, the party of Wliites and Indians leached 
 Fort M'Phersoii, and the account of this most 
 dastardly massacre was related to tiif" Indians who 
 were about the establishiaent, they sided withal Kay 
 in condemning the perpetrators, who on their part 
 now expressed regret that thev' had not taken M 'Kay's 
 advice, which, said they, they would have done but 
 that they were " pushed on l)y jVfanuel," who was said 
 to have confessed having fired with the Loueheux, but 
 denied that lus shot had done ron execntion. 
 
 
 I T 
 
 - J, 
 
 ^ i.! 
 
 li II 
 
I 
 
 h' 
 
 I!;r 
 
 .'}72 
 
 I ON a V.qV KNCKS A NTl CI1» ATF.D . 
 
 I I 
 
 Mr. Peers on ascending the Mackenzie in the Fall saw 
 the bodiei^ still lying on the shore, bnt they were 
 shortly aft(;r bnried or earned away hy the Esquimaux. 
 
 Alas the day that so foul and bloody an act of 
 treachery (!ould be perpetrated ! and alas, shame and 
 degradation that a white man could be foimd worse 
 fiend than the untutored savage ! — to whose religion 
 revenge is a duty, as it is sweet to his nature. We 
 might perchance seek to palliate the commission of 
 this deed in the Red Indian who has some real or 
 fancied injury to retaliate, but even the shadow of an 
 excuse, or of any other motive than innate wantonness 
 and reckless bloodthu'stiness, was w^anting to the 
 fiendish miscreant who shared their hellish plot. 
 
 The ill consequences of this very melancholy affair, 
 will, it is to be feared, be extensive and irremediable, 
 and it must be a soiu-ce of deep regret to consider 
 how much good might have been accomplished had a 
 different line of conduct been pursued. . 
 
 The opportviiity long and eagerly sought for to con- 
 ciliate the Esquimaux, and to place them on a friendly 
 footing with the Whites and the Loucheux, with 
 which latter they had been so long at feud, was most 
 recklessly thrown away. With a display of confidence 
 never before met with in them, these Es(}uimaux 
 had voluntarily yielded up then* arms, and trustingly 
 
 li 
 
BUHl I'EMMK.aN, 
 
 8TS 
 
 placed theniselves in close pioximity to tluiir hereditary 
 enemies, regarding, ! have little doubt, the presence 
 0*' the Whit<'s as an assurance against treachery. 
 Probably very little persuasion would have prevailed 
 on tlieni to proceed to the Fort, vvhei'e a tew presents 
 and judicious treatment would havt.' gone very tar to 
 establish a friendly intercoiu-se tor the future. But, 
 mark the disastrous reverse : henceforth the Whiteman 
 will be included in the undying vengeance of the 
 injured Esquimaux, who will seek — ran we say un- 
 reasonably? — opportunities for clearing off the score 
 of revenge. Woe be to detachetl parties, or solitary 
 stragglers, who may fall in their way ; a short shrift 
 will be their lot, and we warned the scanty garrison 
 of Peel River to have a care, lest, unarmed and un- 
 prepared, they should some day be surprised by a 
 retaliating band. 
 
 We quitted Fort M'Pherson on the S)t\\, and in the 
 aftenioon reached the spot near Point Separation, 
 where the massacre, just related, had oc<!urred. The 
 kiaks of the poor victims were still here, much hacked 
 and broken ; nuiiKUOus foot -prints arouiul were the 
 only additional relics of the event. At Point Separation 
 peminican was biuied in lieu of that we had rcmov(!d 
 hi the summer, and a notice was deposited with it 
 for any futiue expedition. On the 1 4th of the month, 
 
 ,' t 
 
 
 U* 
 
 
 
 M 
 
 i f 
 i 
 
;i7i 
 
 AKKFbi Itm Ml HUKH. 
 
 H I 
 
 
 wv (;ii('ounJ«'iv<l tlic boat coiititming Mr. IVrrH, and 
 tlu! I'ecl UivtM (Mitlit i'or tlio f«.us(ui. W il)i liim (us 
 Hterrsmun) aviis (1r lumi Mumih'I, who, at tlu; desiiv 
 of Ca[)tai]\ Pulltii, ^ave his version of tho hite shock- 
 ing afthir. His story (litTortd vtT} littlo from that of 
 M' Kay's ; hd adiriittod having yif/vv/ ////v'(? /'/>«fc'.v at 
 the Esquiiiiaux, and thut h<> had rt'phfd to M'Kay's 
 entreaty for his intcrfcivncf with th(; Loiu'hcn\, to 
 let thi'ni (\o as tliey pleased, " hiisse li.'s faire." 
 Mr. Prers was apparently, and I tliink witli very 
 good reason, not without fears of an attack at some 
 fntnre tin\e fron» tlie iribc so ci nelly wronged ; at 
 his request the rnnski^ts and anunnnition of our ])aity 
 were snppHed to him,— it is to be hoped they will 
 have no occasion to use them. 
 
 I may la re take occasion to remark, that I believe 
 thi! dastardly Manuel IJebert was sent down to 
 Canada \o lake In^ trial for murder ; this (U'monslrji 
 tion may. at an, latr, <lo good in tlcterring others 
 from sucli cold-bUxuled conduct in similar instances, 
 even if, as I very much fear, the brute will e.>ca[)e 
 punishment tor want (»f vvi♦nessc^, 
 
 Fort (iood Hope was gained on tin; 17th. and W(; 
 received a new and lu-arty greeting from oiir kind 
 friend Mr M' Heath and his anuablr spouse. A 
 supjdy of pemimran, flora-, and clothing awaited 
 
 \h 
 
Hfciiiohi'ttr 
 
 &lb 
 
 U8 ; ri 
 
 ght 
 
 weUoinr was the i 
 
 uUiit 
 
 ion o 
 
 r t\ 
 
 w comes- 
 
 tibles to our liilliirlo villtmoiis diiit. On \\\v -Jotli, 
 l^U't Nornmii aiui my old iVicml 'riiylor, giivt; us 
 shelter, luul wo were rejoieed by the si^dit of Fort 
 Snupson, and the termination of this most disagreeable 
 trip, on tlu- fjth of Oetober, by whieli time notable 
 tokens of winter were disj)layed ; and we had suf- 
 fered much from the. ine-lenieney of the si'uson, tiie 
 thermometer having more than ono' falh-n within a 
 few degr«;es of zero, — whieli, 1 need not remark, is 
 ([uite eold enough for boat travelling. 
 
 This lust expedition must be considered well-nigli 
 nugatory in every respect, with the almost unimportant 
 (ixeeption of the addition of two oi- three islands 
 to those already known about the Maeken/ii;. From 
 the tokens in the early part of tin; sunuiu-r previous 
 to our arrival in tlu' Airtie Sea, we had ho[)ed for a 
 
 tine and 
 
 open 
 
 seus( 
 
 >n ; tl 
 
 use expectations were 
 
 entirely void ; worse weather a\jd a i.K.tre (,'ueund>ered 
 sea it would liuve been ditlieult (o have cn«'(»untered ; 
 and, as before remarked, no noteworthy conseijuences 
 resulted frtnu the undertaking Neither Hanks' Laud, 
 the arand aim of tlu? vovaire, uv)r VVollaston Land, 
 
 D^' 
 
 was reaelicd ; uor did we examme the eouisc of that 
 river which lies between the Mackcn/i«' ami the 
 ('oppeinuMC — its cttiux being in J(iv(M'pool Hi\.jind 
 
 HJ 
 
 
 J! " 
 
 \ . 
 
 M 
 
 ill- 
 
 ! i 
 
I 
 
 I' >' 1 ! 
 
 I ( 
 
 1; 
 
 «7rt 
 
 rU()<;H\MMK luK riiK uiniiu montmh 
 
 of which iKtIhiiig is knouii l)iil hy th<; rt-port^ dl" 
 liwlmns, vvh(» mil it "Soon ill)i\ tcss, ' or the "known 
 not nviT ; " hy \s\\\v.\\ title, unh'^d, l.'hiconnfi. it is 
 distingnlslu'd in tin; country. 
 
 C'ii|>tiun I'nilon, niysi'lt'. nnd tin- two nuu'UHs. wtiv 
 to ronnmi at Fort Snnpson duiinjj; tlu! uiiilcr; the 
 rcniuindcr of onr party wore di'^patfluMJ to the li>*lu;ry 
 on (iriiat Sluvi' Lake, whore umny ot tin- Company s 
 servants wonld also be assejiihleil 
 
 Anotiier lonj? winter had now to W passed, w 
 tonnidable prospeet t(» those who have lew means of 
 o(:enj)iitioh, and Jess eond'orts at tiieir disjiosiil Ihit 
 we had here, .it any rnte, nutre companions and a 
 nearer approach to civilised lite than had been tht 
 lot of some of us last .season, and had no intention 
 of })ernnlting black ennui to engross eitjht or ttin 
 long mouths of our lives. Tluie was a small hbrary 
 at the i\ut, ^hieli the gentlemen of the di>>tnct had 
 ereated to while away weariness at their respc(.'tive 
 posts . of this we were kindly permitted to avail our- 
 selves, iunl found it a great .solace. Meteorological 
 and astronomiral observati{jns oicupied much of our 
 time. The dipping-needle, whith had been my 
 faithful companion ihrougJiont our wanderings, was 
 placed in a bastion of the hort, and also received its 
 share of attention each day. 
 
1 
 
 HrKKCTS OK KXTKKMl (01,1). 
 
 877 
 
 cport- «»»■ 
 
 " known 
 
 nuft. it «« 
 
 iiilor; llu' 
 Lhi" li^icry 
 'oinjiivny s 
 
 |)iissetl, 11 
 ,v uu'uus (<!' 
 losiil, But 
 ions ami >\ 
 d lu'on ll'« 
 () iutt;nti(ni 
 irlit or t»;n 
 nail lilnary 
 (lislnoi had 
 I irspi't't ivr 
 
 avail ovir- 
 ti;ort)logu'al 
 
 nucli of our 
 
 1 Ik'CU iny 
 rriugs, was 
 
 n'lTivt'il i<^ 
 
 I 
 
 W i 
 
 4 
 
 One innst be cautions in luin<lhng instnunents or 
 other artirltis of in(!tul ni cxtreint; cold, as the hare 
 skin i« apt to stick to them on contact, and the 
 soisations then experienced are identical with those 
 of burning very frequently when incautiously drink- 
 ing from a tin-cup which we carrii^l on our journeys, 
 one's lips were for un instant ghied to its edge ; and ni 
 a very low temperature ice when ])ut into our nioutlis 
 would cleave for a second to the tongue. The most 
 curious instance 1 ever e\()eriinced of the effects of 
 cold was one whose relation has been received with less 
 credibility than any other I have made : this was the 
 existence of ice in the nostrils, and, sinmgo to say, 
 it was neither painful noi' troublesome. I had heard 
 the fact mentioned at an early ])eriod of our arrival, 
 and must confess that 1 was inyscilf susj)icious of an 
 attcujpt to impose upon my credulity, but experiince 
 proved its truth in my own person. 
 
 Our fare at Fort Simpson — Englishmen always think 
 feeding an important item of existence — was no 
 doubt luxurious, compared to that which myself and 
 ct)mpanions at Bear Lake had suljsisted on the 
 preceding winter, yet it favoured neither gout nor 
 bilious tendency. Generally, as is customary in 
 the country during the winter, two meals a day 
 were provided . the tirst occ\U'red at about lO, mul 
 
 !! f 
 
 ;:lli 
 
 ■; [ 
 
 1 
 
 
 nil 
 

 ,'J7a 
 
 FARE AT FORT SlMl'SON. 
 
 consisted of tish (either roasted, or boiled and mixed 
 with potatoes, forming u kind of " twice laid,") tea, 
 and homoeopathic allowances of bread. This was called 
 breakfast. Supper took place between 4 to 6 accord- 
 ing to the season, and was the grand affair of the 
 day : dried or fresh rein-deer or moose-meat, rabbits 
 sometimes, and now and then beaver, bear, or goat's 
 flesh ; tea, bread, and an unfreqmmt pudding, or 
 pancake, these comprised nearly all the varieties of 
 the repast. A small quantity of wine and spirits had 
 been forwarded from the Red River colony for our 
 use ; it was, of course, reserved for high days and 
 holidays, when each heart recalled its absent ones — 
 loved and loving. 
 
 The Mackenzie " set fast " on the 1st of December ; 
 had the ice continued nmch longer in motion, I might 
 possibly have had a tragic tale to ulate li;;re. Foin- 
 Indians had arrived on the opposite bank on the 18th, 
 and an endeavour was made to get a boat through the 
 ice to fetch then», but the attempt was necessarily 
 relinquished, and they were told a.s well as the 
 distance would alk>w, to make for the '' j'apid fishery," 
 about five days' journey fnmi the Fort, wliert; a supplv 
 of tish was stored. Two days before the ice stopped, 
 two WhiiemiMi ami two Indians arrived from Tort 
 Coniich'nce, where |)r .John Uacwjis wintering ])ri'vi()ii.s 
 
 ' 
 
 i: )' 
 
1 
 
 i 
 
 DR. KAE S EXPEDITION. 
 
 :J70 
 
 id mixed 
 id,") tea, 
 vas called 
 6 accovd- 
 ar of the 
 t, rabbits 
 or goat's 
 dding, or 
 irieties of 
 pirits had 
 y for our 
 days and 
 lit ones — 
 
 )eceiuber ; 
 u, I might 
 ;re. Four 
 i the 1 8th, 
 irough tlic 
 necessarily 
 i\\ as the 
 d tisliery," 
 re a supply 
 ;e stopj)ed, 
 from Fort 
 ig])revious 
 
 i 
 
 to proceeding on another Arctic expedition (which has 
 since resulted hi his reaching Wollaston Land, and 
 other valuable consequences, for which partly the 
 Gold Council Medal of the Royal Geograpliical 
 Society was awarded him). These men had been 
 twenty-six days upon the journey, and had exhausted 
 their provisions ; they were obliged to kill one of 
 their dogs next day, but the Indians, although starving, 
 would not touch its flesh, their superstition holding 
 that ciie dog is their brother. Only two of the Indians 
 who first had arrived had departed for the fishery on 
 the rapid ; the others had remained opposite to the 
 Fort, and were now in a very low state, being unable 
 from weakness to cro<s the river immediately upon 
 Its setting fast. 
 
 :l|f 
 
 » , [ 
 
n 
 
 m I f 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 New Year's Day Festival. — Cyclical fluctuation in the breed of Kabbits.— 
 Conjectured causes, and Indian superstition thereon. — OouBecpieut 
 effect upon fur-bearing animals, — New mode of catching Foxes.- 
 Severity of Season, --Mercury uietamorphost^d.— Aurora Horeiilis.— 
 Disruption of the Ice. — A strange piOi)hecy. — Melancholy effects ot 
 Buperstitiou -— An Indian Marriage. — The Fight of the Females. — 
 Farewell to Fort Simpson. — Fort Resolution. — Manufacture of Pern 
 mican. — •Slave River. — Muddled Moments. — The Hudson's Bay 
 Company of Merchant Adventurers. — The Hardy Voyageur. — The 
 Adventures of a Pack.— Anival at the Noyd. — A beiuitiful Cascade.— 
 Making a Portage.- Burn the Boats, —Fort Chipewyan. — The Chipe 
 wyauB and Crees, their Language and Llioayucrnsy. — An Indian's 
 Remorse. — Mr Geero's Predilections. --The Lake of the Hills.-- 
 Natural Pitch. — Clear Water River. — Methy Portage. — Mermaid's 
 Hair. 
 
 Nkw Year's day is the principal festival at tlie jnists 
 of the Hudson's Bay Company ; that wliich usliered 
 in 1850 was ('(U'emoniously observed at Fort Simpson. 
 The men assembled at an early hour m front of the 
 main dwelliiifi-house, and fired a feu-de-joie in com- 
 [)liment to their otHeers and the occasion. AH then 
 entered tlic hall, which is very large for the recej)- 
 tion f)f Indians, and were welcomed by their Bourgeois 
 (Mr. Rell), the title always given to the head of the 
 district, and the other gentlemen of the establishment. 
 
 i :i 
 
NEW TEAK S DAY IN THli NORTIF. 
 
 ;isi 
 
 1 of Rabbits.— 
 — Oouae(iuent 
 hing Foxes. — 
 ira Korealia.— 
 bioly eifeeta of 
 be Females. — 
 cture of Peiu 
 Hudson's Bay 
 oyageur. — The 
 iful Cascade.— 
 u.— Tbe Cbipe 
 . — An Indian's 
 f the Hills, 
 ge. — Mermaid's 
 
 lit tlie jiosts 
 
 cli ushered 
 
 t Simpson. 
 
 •out of the 
 
 310 m coui- 
 
 Ml then 
 
 tlic recop- 
 
 r Bourgeois 
 
 lead of thi: 
 
 id)lishmeiil 
 
 who shook hands with each in turn, addressing to 
 him at the same time a few eomphmentary phrases. 
 The guests then seated themselves upon benches 
 ranged round the walls of tli(^ ai)artm<!nt, and one 
 of their number assuming the office of Ganymede (ye 
 (jods. what a satire on the cujvbearer of Jove!), 
 administered to each a portion of the sonl-rt^joieing 
 fluids provided by the Bourg«^ois, who is yearly 
 allowed a small quantity oi wine, spirits, and shrub. 
 Healths and good wishes were interchanged ; pipes, 
 with their attendant weed produced, — and smoke 
 cind talk now flowed apace. In about an hour the 
 visitors, ha\ing more than once repeated their libations 
 to Bacchus, rose to withdi*aw, addn^ssing thankful 
 aeknowKxlgments to the provider of the treat, and 
 accepting joyfully an invitation to devote the coming 
 evening to tlie wor.ship of Terpsichore, and partake 
 of a feast to be presently prepared. In the afternoon 
 the company re-assembled m the liiv.l, where a — to 
 them — .:am])tuons repasi was spread, of which, to 
 enumerate some of its delicacies, a roasted swan, 
 deer's tongues, potatoes, turnips, and a huge pluni- 
 pmlding, ^vere items. Dinner having succeeded 
 drink, was followed by dancing, which was kept up 
 untlaggingly until after mulnight, refreshments being 
 again provided in the shape of suj)i)er. Thus ended 
 
 1:! 
 
 i^ 
 
 ;■ h ^ 
 
 ? ti 
 
382 
 
 INCREASE AND DECREASE OP RAHUITS. 
 
 M 
 
 ' ' t ! 
 
 New Year's day in tlie far north of the Hudson's 
 Buy Company's territories. 
 
 It is a very remarkable and well established 
 circumstance that the rabbits in the north of America 
 are subject to pei'iodical conditions of increase and 
 reduction in their nunjbers They experience cycles 
 of progress and <1ecay, comprising a!)0iit eight or 
 nine years, and so certain is this laAV of revolution 
 that Whites and Imbans alike make their calculations 
 with a view to its occirrrence. Overrunning the land 
 in astonishing quantities one yeai, these ajiimals 
 gradually lessen their niunbers annually, ujitil very 
 few can be caught ; having arrived at their minimum, 
 they then gradually increase, until again reaching 
 their maximum advance. 
 
 This remarkable ebb and flow of bfe is ascribed 
 to more than on(^ cause. It is said that the ral)bits 
 migrat<^ at regular intervals to avoid the merciless 
 persecutions of their many enemies, lynx, wolf, fo.v, 
 marten, ermine, and even ravcms ; but another and 
 more probable cause assigned is their visitation by an 
 epidemic which is fatal to myriads. The Indians 
 have, 1 was told, an idea that when rabbits are 
 not to be foimd near, they have gone up into the 
 clouds, and that they frequently iiear them crying 
 there. 
 
PS. 
 
 Hudson's 
 
 stablished 
 >f America 
 •reasc aiul 
 3U('C cycles 
 t eight or 
 
 revolution 
 •alculations 
 ig tlie land 
 sc ajumals 
 
 imtil very 
 • miniiimiu, 
 li reaching 
 
 is Hscril K'd 
 the rabbits 
 e merciless 
 wolf, fox, 
 \other and 
 at ion by an 
 he Indians 
 labbits are 
 \y into the 
 hem crying 
 
 ; 
 
 FISHING FOR A VnX. 
 
 J^8H 
 
 Whatever may l)e the canse of this variation it 
 very importantly atlects tii<? fnr trade in this region. 
 The year succeeding that when raliliits are most 
 plentiful is generally the most prolific in the supply 
 of those animals before-meutiontHl whdse j)nncipal 
 food thev are ; and iii tlie same niannec the season 
 
 « 
 
 following that of their almost entire altsenci: irs wofully 
 deficient in its tribute of fur-bcarnig creatures 
 Possibly the epi(h-inic which visits the victims may 
 iilso uftect the ravenous tjraiiih, whose prey tt'<\y 
 become •, but independently of thi.s conjectnre then- 
 is no doubt that in the luiies of scan-iiy the lesser 
 beasts of prey are reduced to great hunger, and feed 
 U})on each other. I have several tmies seen martens 
 vrhich had been trapped devoured by lynxes. At 
 i'ort Simpson, on one occasion an Indian vsdio was 
 about to set a hook and line in the rivei tor fish 
 observed a fox near him, which had been imperiled 
 bv starvation to approach the habitalion of man in 
 search of food. He threw the baited lnjok towards 
 the animal, it greedily swallowed ilic dceeittul prize 
 whosi? acfpiisition was its ca|)tiire and its death. 
 
 We experienced severe cold at I'ort Simpson, 
 registering more than once 50 below zero ; but this 
 was mild compared to the temperature al Bear Lake, 
 where my last winter was passed lb'. Rac m rote 
 
 ;!;■! 
 
 , ; 51 
 
 i i 
 
 ! J 
 
 ! I 
 
 'i > 
 
I! 
 
 38i 
 
 AUKOBA BORRALIS. 
 
 to say that the tlierniomet( r had been below — 70 iit 
 Fort Contidence. 
 
 It is very ciu-ious to witness the congelation of 
 mercury, which takes plncc about — 40 : when 
 l)rought into the atmosphere from a considerably higher 
 temperature the process is necessarily very gradual ; 
 the quicksilver slowly contrac^ts itself, a dull film 
 overspreads the mass, and, immediately previous to 
 complete congelation, u thin bright fluid appears on 
 the surface ; the sabstance is then of a doughlike 
 consistence, and may be indented with a pointed 
 instrument ; but speedily the final change occurs ; 
 KuiLf Frost asserts his sway, and the usuallv restless 
 metal, which whilom played fast and loose with 
 finger and dish in its frohcsome gambols, is reduced 
 to an inert, indurated solid, presenting the appearance 
 of frosted silver 
 
 Yew nights passed without a greater or less display 
 of the Aurora BoreaUs, that wondrous phenomenon 
 whose existence after more than half a century of 
 resean^h, is yet unaccounted for satisfactorily. Lan- 
 guage is vain in tlie attempt to describe its ever- 
 varying aiid gorgeous phas(!s ; no pen nor pencil can 
 pourtray its fickle hues, its radiance, and its grandeur. 
 1 insert the following notice of a display which 
 occur nnl on the 22nd of February, iMol, more as an 
 
 I* 
 
1 
 
 AlKonx H(>RK\r.lS. 
 
 HS: 
 
 —70 fit. 
 
 atio" of 
 : when 
 \y higlier 
 gradual ; 
 dull tUin 
 cvious ti") 
 ppc.ars on 
 doughlike 
 :\ pointed 
 e occurs ; 
 II V restless 
 oose with 
 8 reduced 
 ippen ranee 
 
 ss display 
 lenomenon 
 century oi 
 ■ilv. Lau- 
 e its ever- 
 
 pencil can 
 ? grandeur, 
 play which 
 
 niore as an 
 
 I 
 
 instance of the wojiderfiil variety of tlie phenomenon 
 tlian in the hope of (•(•nvcying anytlnng like an 
 adequate idea of its heaiity, — thai I feel to be 
 inipossi])le. 
 
 "At lOT)!) I'M, Aurora appeared in a hroad 
 transverse band of dull ditfuscd hghi, extending from 
 R. hy S. to W.N.W., passing tlirr)agli tiie tail of the 
 Great; Ikiur: two narrow bands of faint light t'rom 
 the same points passed through the zenith, as 
 perfectly and regularly defined as if two nliands 
 were stretched afhwait the sky; the s])ace bi'tuvon 
 them, of equal breadth with themselves, ajjpeared 
 veiy dark, either materially so or by contrast. 
 
 '*To the northward a famt ditf\!sed light a|>peared 
 over (lurk hazt or clouds rm the horizon ; through 
 this haze stars were not perceptible. 
 
 "At 11, Aurora was tiirther displayed in an 
 inunense n\ass or bush, which, occupying the space 
 between E.N. R. and E.S.E,, and covering the entire 
 constellation of Ursa Major, gradually narrowed after 
 passnig the zenith, and thetice ccmtinued in a ser 
 ptmtine band of moderate Ineadth to the west, passing 
 in its route a little to the northward of the PLiades 
 The eastern extremity was of ' scroll ' or ' c\nlain * 
 character, Avith considerable motion (easterly), and 
 in it prismatic colours were finely developed, red and 
 
 
 <; c 
 
I ! 
 
 ; I 
 
 i 
 ( I 
 
 ): 
 
 iWi 
 
 VVINTER-MPE AT FORT SIMPSON. 
 
 violet \i\utH predoiiiinnting ; the entire dis])lay was of a 
 luight greenish goklen colour or jiglit. To the north- 
 ward a few Hght and faint vertical patches were visible. 
 " At midnight a serpentine arch (»r band — composed 
 of series of vertical hiu^s in contiinial niotioii longh 
 out its length — extended iVoni E S.E., cousiileraf)ly 
 to the southward of th(^ zenitli, to W., its \(>rtex 
 sinking slowly towards the 8.W. horizon ; in this 
 also colours were finely tliough transitorily dispiaycid, 
 the main body l)eing of the same hue as before. 
 
 " Five minutes after nndnight this arch suddenly 
 dispersed itself over nil th(! sky to the northward, and 
 paruy also to the southwiu'd, of the zenith hi beauis, 
 rays, streamers, and every iuii)gina)»le disposition 
 of lines, the most rennirkable being innumerable 
 vertical patches, with which the sky Avas as it were 
 povvder(!(l, all bright and all in motion , a narrow, 
 but brilliatit serpentine band — a ()erfecr fringe of 
 blazing light — rose at east, and ran at a small distance 
 above the horizon, through north to west, 
 
 " The weather was clear and calm, but I am 
 disposed to conjt/dire that tlat instantaneous dis- 
 persion of one ])ort.on, which occurred witli lightning- 
 like celerity, and the unceasing motion of the whole 
 display, were caused by conflicting ctUTents of air in 
 the higher regions of the atmosphere." 
 
WftS of u 
 lie north- 
 re visible, 
 composed 
 rough- 
 isidorHhly 
 its vertex 
 ; ill this 
 displayed, 
 [ore. 
 
 1 suddenly 
 )\>{U'd, mid 
 in beams, 
 disposition 
 mumerable 
 as it Avere, 
 a narrow, 
 fringe of 
 all distance 
 
 but I am 
 
 meoiis dis- 
 I ii^litning- 
 the whole 
 It!? of air in 
 
 OI'KNIN'i OK sn{|\(, 
 
 3H7 
 
 • The monotony wliici: haraeterisr^ n winter in 
 the north was hut, sehlom broken m upon duiing our 
 condition of ve<>;(latH»ii ;it Tori Simpson, and we 
 gladly hailed th.- first signs (»t spring, and the 
 pros|)ect of f>peedy ih'liveran<f troin our '• diUMiKH* 
 vile/' A wild finck, Imilntiger of a inoie genial 
 season, was killed on tiie lirst of May, a goos(> was 
 shot nexi day, and tiie migrating birds now began 
 to fioek ni On tlie Ith the long icedionnd river 
 Imrst its bonds md. rising eonsiderabl\, carried otf 
 huge trees, and masses of drift-wood fj-oni lh<' banks, 
 to add to the vast profusion whicli we had observeiJ 
 on the short's of tlu^ oe»Min, to the w«'stward (»f the 
 Maekenzie's month 
 
 Our party had iveeived an mej'ease diu'ing tin; 
 winter by the arrival of Mr W l.ane, who was to 
 take charge ol Fort de l.iard in the s[)rmg. Upon 
 the bn'akmg up of the icc this gentleman prepared 
 to de))nrt I'oi his post, and I had the good fortune t*^ 
 share his journey, as I eonld ('(Jturn with ihe party 
 which would brmg down tla^ furs eollcctiMl dnrins 
 the past season. 
 
 Mr, Jiane had been many years a rt;sident in the 
 Hudson i?ay ('oin])any's tcrntc'ries, and enlivened 
 our tri|) with many a jileasant joke and anecdote. 
 One i-)t these was tnilv remarkable, and w(nild 
 
 1 I 
 
 Mr I 
 
 1 h • ' 
 If* 
 
 A-rms'^K^V!. 'ff 
 
Ill 
 
 sss 
 
 INDfAN rnoiMlKlT. 
 
 .1. I ! 
 
 sonrrt'ly Ix' lirld ms crctliMc luul we not tlie testi- 
 mony (»t" nn jK'tujil witiM'ss. 
 
 I>m'ing tlic time that Mr. Lam' was stationed in 
 New ( al«Ml()nifi lie nrcivod a visit IVom an aged 
 Indian, of the CiuinT trilu', who Ikad lurn witli Sir 
 Alexander Maeken/ie in one of liis tri^s of discovery 
 to the sea eoast, and liad th*i re|)ntation of being a 
 gr(!at niedi(;ine-njan. As lie hud not ])uid u visit to 
 the fort for several years his appearance excited sonie 
 surprise, and he was asked why h«' came. He 
 replied that he had coine to look at the fort and 
 its inniat«\s for the last time. " Did yon ever/' said 
 the old man, "hear tlnuider in the winter thne?" 
 Mr. Lane ••eplied in the negative. "Then," rejoined 
 tlie Indian, 'when in two nionns' time you hear 
 a clap of thnnder. send to my lodge an«l yon will 
 tiiul me (lend " 
 
 Within fifteen days of the appointed time Mr. Lane 
 did indeed hear a solitary hurst of thunder ; the 
 nephew of the old Indian, who was the fort int.er- 
 pret(U', started ofll' directly to his tnicle's lodge, and 
 on arrival found that he had just expired. The 
 realisation of this pro})hecy did not in the least 
 surpris«> the rest of the Indians, who had expressed 
 their entire convii'tion of its fultilment. 
 
 The superstition of the Indians is a wonderful 
 
 !: I' 
 
he tcsti- 
 
 tioMod ill 
 an iiged 
 
 \ with Sir 
 (liHcovevv 
 
 ft' 
 
 )t' bring ti 
 a visit to 
 'itoil some 
 nine.. He 
 3 fort iuul 
 ever,' snid 
 er time?" 
 ' rejoini'tl 
 yoii hear 
 1 you will 
 
 L^ Mr. liune 
 mder ; the 
 tort inter- 
 loilge, and 
 ired. The 
 the least 
 expressed 
 
 wonderful 
 
 tNDlAN WKDDISU 
 
 xh4) 
 
 feature t)f their eharaeter, and they h. .jMeuflv "my 
 severely for their credulous simplicity. Not luuuy 
 yeur.s ago a rejiort was prevalent amongst those of 
 the Shivc Lake ipiartcr, that their dead had heen 
 restored to life, imd had tstahlishfd a fort in the 
 interior, where foot! and supplies of all kuuls were 
 to ))e ohtaiiH'd in profusion. So strong was the 
 beli«'f, that great numliers made pilgrimages to the 
 spot designated, and many dud of famme and 
 privation in conse(|ueuce. 
 
 We had not actual csperiv'uce of the tribes in 
 what is called the Southern l)'|tartment, of which 
 the head-<|uarters arc i-stablislud at Moose I'aetory 
 in James's Hay, but I was favoined with one or two 
 interesting anecdotes of that locality by a gentleman 
 who had lately left the district of the south. Here, 
 for instance, is an Intlian weilding, as it now exists. 
 The maidens do not marry mitil they have reached 
 that age Mhiirh with tlu^n as with us is called sweet 
 sixteen. The ceremony performed at Moose was 
 thus described •. — the coujilc go into the store where 
 goods are dispensed in b:irt«M', and nnh receives a 
 pieet^ of gingerbread, the man a ilraiu of spirits, the 
 woman a printed gown-piec*-, or .souu' oth(>r trifle. 
 The bridegroom then declares m picseiicc of witnesses 
 that Ik will on no account sepiiratc from his wife, 
 
 '.I ', 
 
 !i ^ 
 
 M 
 
 I f\ 
 
 
I I 
 
 niio 
 
 WVJ.VH OK HAITI.K. 
 
 ii|)un vvhos< Hii|4<'i !i riiif is put h) the inlt rpirtei''. 
 tin; tvi'i'moii) is tlicii <'oiM)>lt't»', niul is lu>l(l ujj 
 indissuliiMi'. SqMimtion seldom (mi;mi's uiiI(>ss tlir 
 wite lu'CoiuoH n'('kKs,">l\ tilmiuloiicd, wliicli im ,1 rare 
 «inMmishni('(> ; the imn nvv \(iv jeuioiiH, nin\ iwv 
 hahle to rctaliiitt! r(\(ii<jjcliillv iinoM their (•(Keiuhns.^ 
 hi'others. Weddings geiieially tiiivC (>laee in the 
 I'idl "1" tlie yviW idi( ut I he tim<' ot iroo'^e-hiinlinu;, and 
 the hiippy eonph^ iiumediatelv i»piiir (u the miinshv-s 
 to spend the liotK-s moon. Tlie hn-^lxind geiienillv 
 receives 11 present of anuiuuiilion and iiastens fo pro- 
 cure a sioek oi' geese \n ith wlueli lie le;isis his IVieiids. 
 Two voimg Indian n'f)nien were ohstM'vrd some 
 years aji'o in violent eontliet ; iliey wei*' parted, hul 
 intreated lo be [xnnilled It* (K'cide (ho eontt>l as 
 they uould liieti be tVieiuU apun , this ie(jii<'st, 
 Jtppearuifi; reasonable, wast aeeeded to, (he bystanders 
 tukinj^ e/ire that Hievc should l>e fan* ])lay. Aftiu- 
 a lenf^^lieiied and ch'terniiiied st ru'.',j;ie the Aveakesi 
 succtiiubiHi to IIk supeiior prowess of her tbrtuiiato 
 ad\ersary. h: ajipr^ired that these girls wore in lovt^ 
 with the same man,, and had solt'-m.^til mod this mode 
 of deriding their elaims. No wmuK'r the\ iouglU 
 like wild eats, '.rhe det'eatod damsel was so mueh 
 omaged at her di.>appoinlment that she soon ntter- 
 wards shot her rival dead. 
 
 |J 
 
FORT KKHOLITIOV. 
 
 301 
 
 hv\d .i> 
 1 1 less tlir 
 is ft Ywro 
 
 ami iii't 
 
 [* 111 IIh- 
 tini^. mid 
 • miirshos 
 ^oiUTiilly 
 lis to [)10- 
 
 rtcil, l)iil 
 
 oiiit >1 lis 
 
 ir(jiu;st, 
 
 >vst;iiulcvs 
 
 V. At'tir 
 
 weakest 
 
 t'orlunati; 
 
 •(• 11! lovt" 
 
 lii^ moilc 
 
 \ t'ought 
 
 so IIUIcll 
 
 )oi» nltcr- 
 
 On my return to Fort Simpson piipunitions \V(;ri; 
 already instituted for our di'j)nrturc, JisOaptuin I'nlliMi 
 intended to proceeil sonic time in advimn' ul' tin- 
 yearly bri}j;ade. Hiddinf; fiirewell to tlir eonipanions 
 of u lon^ and dreary vinter, we (putted Tori 
 Simpson on the .Jtli of June, and ascended the 
 Maekenzic by easy stages. 
 
 Werenelied Hi^^ Islaiid '>ntiie 1 Mth, reuiaiii'-d there 
 tliree days, and ^anied Fort Kcsohitiun on the " ' ' 
 
 This was tlie neatest and eleane.st ('stal)!<si)( ,. . < 
 wc had yei seen ; mueli etire v\ as evident i 
 departinent. The houses were Imilt of wti! ^^plit 
 and S(piared lo^s ])hieed i;dp' to cdgi , and closely 
 tittinjj;, aiul the l)uil(hngs were enelosed l)y })i('ke1s of 
 regular heigiit and make. 
 
 Peinniican had so i)ften been our fotxi duruig the 
 long sojourn in this land of eternal snow and hard 
 meat, that 1 was desirous of earrying A^'ith nie a 
 specimen of t!ie native material, for the insptetion of 
 
 the 
 
 onrious ni 
 
 <ueh matters ; 1 was furnislied witii 
 
 n small quantity made after the most a})proved fashion, 
 and brought it home all safe, but a*? I fear 1 cannot 
 hand it to each of my readers for exammation, 1 will 
 briefly describe the proeess of pn^jiaring th<^ article, 
 fo)' the benefit of those who are not already acquainted 
 with it. U[)on the slaughter of a nnndeer or huflaloj 
 
 : i 
 
 )f 
 
 ! « 
 
 u 
 
 1 I • 
 
 i ' « 
 
 i 1 ' » 
 
i ! 
 
 ! :(■ 
 
 i 
 
 39:^ MKTUOl) (H' I'KESKRVING VJKAT. 
 
 the ImnUr Iwis to ('oiiisicler three modes oV disposing 
 of tht.' eavcuse, When near a -station he gencrully 
 |)ut8 the animal " en eaehe," snrroiuuiiag it with logs 
 and heaping snow over all to keep the wihl beasts 
 tioni it, a precaution nol HlvAays sue(M>,ssfnl , the 
 uolveriue, or ghUton, being a most determined 
 marauder, Inteihgence is ilien sent to the Fort, 
 whence sledges are despatc^licil to bring home tln^ 
 ]MT/e In tliis ease the meat is fresh ajid will of 
 course reniain so, while frozen, for any length of 
 time, Tile other t\A<i mode?' of preparing the flesh 
 are siiailar to each other dili'ermg only aceordiiig to 
 th<' caprice of the eurer or the distaiu'e which 
 intervenes between the ^pot wliere tlie animal falls 
 and tht' destination 'A the carcase ; in either ease the 
 flesli is cut into layers and the bones removed, the 
 meat is tlum phieed upon stages and snbjected to the 
 action and smoke of slow Hrcs and the sun's rays ; 
 bv thi.-i iirtKcss It uradnallv becomes desiccated, the 
 watery particles evaporate, leaving only the fibre and 
 sinew, It is according' to the completeness of this 
 process iliai "dried" ui "half-dried meat" are 
 obtained. 1 in'cd not say much about their excellence ; 
 neither of them is very nice, and we can only give 
 them (h(^ (h'grees of • Mni|>an'>on, bad and worse, but 
 their prcpaiation is rendcicd neees^ary by the great 
 
disposing 
 generally 
 with logs 
 ild beasts 
 sful , tlu; 
 f'teriuined 
 the Fort, 
 home the 
 lul will of 
 length of 
 the flesh 
 L'ording to 
 ice vvliieh 
 111 Rial falls 
 r case thti 
 lOved, the 
 
 tv(l (u tho 
 la '^ m\s ; 
 cated, the 
 
 lihro ajid 
 ss of this 
 I eat ' are 
 xeeHencc ; 
 
 Kuly give 
 vorse, hill 
 
 tiu' gr<'at 
 
 PKMM KAN — MU(S(i»' ITOES. 
 
 393 
 
 distances which occur between the liunthig-grounds 
 and the forts, and also by the fact that much of the 
 meat is killed in the saninxT, and could not therefore 
 otherwise be kept sound. Dry meat is the principal 
 component of pemmieau. It is pounded fine, 
 almost to powder, often indeed ])eing i)assed through 
 a sieve to intercept tlie large fragments, and then 
 placed in a trough wliere nu^ltcd fat is poiu-ed u])oii 
 and well mixed with it. The composition is placed in 
 a parchment bag, rannncd (h)\\n, and pressed ; when 
 cool it is like a mass of lead. iMfty-five pounds of 
 the powdered meat mixed with thirty-five of fat make 
 a " piece " of penunican, which the Canadians 
 facetiously designate "un taureau,'' in allnsion to 
 the buflfalo, from which a great part is made. 
 
 We remained eight days at Fort Kesohition, and 
 were nuich indebted to Mr, W. M' Murray for his 
 considtuate attention to our comfort, which was, not- 
 withstanding, sadly marred by the unfailing attacks of 
 myriads of mos(iuitoes. Munh-rous crusades, and 
 uimunerable niventions for wholesale slaughter by 
 tire, smoke, water, gunpowder, &c., were of little avail 
 against these pests ; it seemed, as was remarked by 
 one of the seanu^n, that a thousand insects flocked to 
 the funeral of each one killed, and it was the 
 best way after all to resign oneself to I lie plague. 
 
 t 'I 
 
 r\ I si 
 
I i 
 
 394 
 
 SALT RIVER SETTLEMENT. 
 
 
 Mr. M'Murray and I sou<.^ht relief from our nii^eries 
 ill milk and cranberries, and retilly I am afraid vveliad 
 more relish than judgment in the discussion of this 
 reireshing medley. > . 
 
 On the last day of June we bade farewell to 
 Mr. M'Miu'ray and the other denizen.s of I'ort 
 Resohition, and resumed our ioiirnev homewards 
 The ascent of Shive Kiv(>r, which we entered a couple 
 of honi's after departure, had little of novelty io 
 hiterest wandert;rs whose thoughts w(}re directed with 
 eager liope towards hoint? and its relations. On the 
 7th, Salt River, a small tributary of the ^la\e liivcr, 
 was reached. It would I)C unnoticeable but for the 
 existence of a half-easti' family, v\ho have formed a 
 tiny colony on its banks, and arc (Content to live on 
 from }e{'r to \ear in this isolated locality. Their 
 possessions consisted of several buildings, some cows, 
 horses and dogs, and two or three stnall plots of 
 cuiti\ated groiuui, in whuh were potatoes, turnips* 
 and onions 'J'lie good folks su])i)lied us witli toj)s of 
 the latter \egetid)les, but dechned to pull up the roots, 
 which, they said, always remained in the grouuvl. 
 My reminiscences of the spot include thoNt of a 
 tritlhig .'incident, wliiijj there occurred to me. Being 
 about t<» batlhi, as was our daily custom, 1 juni])ed 
 headlong into thestreaJii, and <\[):'nenced the reward 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
HUDSON S B\Y COMPANY. 
 
 3i>5 
 
 miseries 
 i we had 
 1 of this 
 
 •ewell to 
 
 of I'ort 
 
 iiowfircls. 
 
 )veltv Lo 
 
 V 
 
 :-ted with 
 On the 
 AC Kivir, 
 lit for tlie 
 foruK'd a 
 1 live oil 
 Th.-ir 
 >iuc cows,, 
 plots < >f 
 , tiiriiipi^ 
 h toj)s (»f 
 tlic roots, 
 grouihl. 
 lo^c of a. 
 '. Being 
 I jiuupc*! 
 i< rewiird 
 
 J 
 
 of ijiy incauti(>n, by binding myseU' over head and 
 liands in soft mud, the water being unexpectedly 
 shallow : I was fortunate in escaping suffocation. 
 
 There can scarcely be found a more wonderful 
 instance of the combination of ingenuity, perseverance 
 and endurance, in the search after commercial 
 prosperity, than is aftbrded by the Hudson's Bay Fur 
 I'rading Company, instituted so early as the reign of 
 Charles II. In the eai-lier stages of Its existence, 
 only a few positions were established on the shores of 
 Hudson's Ba}', but the rajige of operations was 
 gradually widely extended, and in North iViuenca 
 alone they now hunt over an innnensc territory, and 
 give occupation to numerous j)ei'sons, — Whites, 
 Indians, and half-<-astes. From the shores of Hudson's 
 Bay in the Atlantic, to Vancouver's Island and the 
 Columbia River Disti'ict on tlu> Pacific, and from the 
 borders of Canada to the dreary Arctic circle, 
 isohiifd stations of the Company arc established, often 
 amid dtmse forests, and cheerless solitudes. In many 
 of these, not more than from two to six men pass 
 long winters of monotonou-i orcupation to cut wood 
 and l)ring home provisions on sledg'^s are their 
 priticipal avocations, ami their diet is in many 
 instances hsh, uninterruptedl) , or varied by dried meat, 
 wliose r.rc.ellcncc 1 have alniady remarked upon The 
 
hi 'I 
 
 89d 
 
 PAvSSAGK OF PKI.T1MKS To KMiLANI), 
 
 transport of goods and pt^ltries U> and from the 
 
 nmiitn'ous stations must impress oiio with a ftuling of 
 
 admiration at the indomitalilc t?nciti;y and hdjonons 
 
 p(^rs(nerancc which overcomes every ditliculty and 
 
 braves so many dangers to attain Jts ends. Mountain 
 
 and forest, torrent and sliaihiw, extremes of cold, heat 
 
 and privatioi , are encountered and set at defiance by 
 
 the enterprising " voyageur ; " wlierc force avails not, 
 
 patitmcc am) stj-atagem art: successfully resorted to, 
 
 disaster only seejns to create a new spur, and point out 
 
 some new method for the next entei'prise. Furs Avdicli 
 
 arc brouglit from some of tlie most distai»l; parts in 
 
 the Northern Department — of Avhich York Factory in 
 
 Hu«ison's Bay is the hfiad-fjuarters — traverse Ijctween 
 
 a,000 and 4,000 miles eiv they roacli that post, 
 
 whence they are sliippe(J for EnglatuI, and occupy 
 
 nearly a year in their transit, in whicli they undergo 
 
 extraordinary umtations of travel The furs are made 
 
 up int(.> parcels or '• packs ' weighing eighty-four to 
 
 nhiety pounds, and pies, jd hy wedges (ir screws uito 
 
 the smalk st j)ossible compass ; the body of the pack 
 
 is generally cotn[)ose(l of tl)e smaller and tirier skins, 
 
 such as jnuskrat, martens, and ott<Ts, of which from 
 
 ;i()0 to O'Mi are recpiired , these are enclosttd by 
 
 skins of the l)ear. wolf and reindeer. The packs are 
 
 all made .>f a cerlam size ami slmpe. and sc(.'nrel\ 
 
 .1 1 
 
VASSAdK OF TRI,TR1»-^S T<» KNflLAXT). 
 
 897 
 
 I'roiu 'lie 
 feeling of 
 hibonons 
 (•ulty and 
 Mountain 
 colli, liciit 
 kirtiuice by 
 uvjiils not,, 
 esoited to, 
 i point out 
 Furs wliicli 
 j\t parts in 
 l^'actorv in 
 se Itelwecn 
 till it post, 
 nil oi'CUi»y 
 y undergti 
 s fire niatle 
 litv-foiu- U) 
 serews Uito 
 I the paek 
 tivier skins, 
 winelk tVom 
 ulosed l<y 
 e paeks are 
 id sienreK 
 
 bound with 8to\it thongs of hide, called pack-rord, 
 which in the not imfveipient periods of distress for 
 food is generally the tirst vnbstitiite for more legitimate 
 alui^ent, as by long boiling it acquires a jelly-like 
 consistence. 
 
 Diu-ing the winter they are transj)orted on sleJges — 
 a service of a severe nature — to the nearest post from 
 which water carriage can be made available ; and on 
 the breaking up of the ice in the spring are placed in 
 large boats, of precisely the same make as that (the 
 " Try Again") which we had on onr second trip to the 
 Arctic sea, and which will carry as many as 110 
 "pieces" or "•packs," nearly ten thousand pounds 
 weight, but their general load, where the travel is 
 bad, IS, I believe, from seventy to eighty pieces. 
 Thi^se boats are mtumiHl with nine, seven, or even 
 five men, and it will presently be seen that tlic 
 poor fellows work like horses; indeiid I unhesitatingly 
 jissert that I never saw toil to equal, for endurance 
 and severity, that of the Hudson's Bay (company's 
 servants during tlu; summer season. From iwo in 
 the morning nnili inght or nine, and often later, at 
 night thov are engaged in the most fatiguing labour, 
 only halting for a short time to bi\ akfast, and supping 
 when they land at night, taking a snaek of pemmican 
 us they can catch it during the progress of the boat. 
 
 ! il 
 ' 'i 
 
f 
 
 
 I 
 
 3i»8 
 
 PlPFICMLTIKft OF TRANSIT, 
 
 r i i 
 
 Among the principal of the difficulties whici 
 impede inland navigation and transport in North - 
 West America, the numerous rapids nnist be con- 
 sidered chief : where these are trifling Ihey arc 
 mounted or descended with fully laden boats and 
 slight inconvenience or delay ; but in passing ])ad 
 rapids great care, preparation, and skill, becouie 
 necessary, and most generally ** portages" have to 
 be made at a great expense of time and labour. 
 The boats are brought to tlio foot of the rapid, and 
 there imloaded, every article being transported on 
 the men's backs through the woods to a point of 
 the stream above the embarrassed locality ; the boats 
 are then dragged " light " up the rapid, or where 
 it is very bad, are themselves earned across the 
 portage, after which they are again speedily laden, 
 and the party hastens onwards. In the voyage 
 between Fort Simpson and York Factory, nearly 
 ninety places of greater or less ditficiUty occur , some 
 are of little notice, others dangerous in the extreme, 
 and these, I need scarcely observe, require very 
 great >kill and practice in their j)assage. We of the 
 boat e::pedition, who might not unreasonably advance 
 a claim to some credit for knowledge of boats and 
 their management, were quite incompetent to act in 
 these positions : there is nearly as much difference 
 
 i 
 
ASCKNT OF A RAIMl). 
 
 899 
 
 ies which 
 in North- 
 it be con- 
 
 Ihey arc 
 boats and 
 issing bad 
 ll, become 
 have to 
 id labour, 
 rapid, and 
 ported on 
 1 point of 
 
 the boats 
 
 or where 
 Kcross the 
 Jily hiden, 
 he voyage 
 ry, nearly 
 cnr , some 
 le extreme, 
 ^uire very 
 kVe of the 
 ly advance 
 boats and 
 : to act in 
 
 difference 
 
 3 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 1 ■. 
 
 between a "voyageur " and a sailor, as between the 
 latter and a 'andsman, and none but an unreasonable 
 man would fail to recognise the distinction. 
 
 The Noye Rapid — so uamed from having caused a 
 death by drowning — at which we arrived on the 9th, 
 was formed by a ridge of granite, irregular and 
 disconnected, lying right across the n\'er, and of 
 course greatly obstructing the regular course of the 
 stream. It was necessary to nuike a portage of the 
 goods here ; our boat was unladen accordingly, and 
 the contents carried across a forest point which 
 borders the river ; this portage I conjectured to be 
 about a quarter of a mile in length. Next morning, 
 the 10th, the first brigade of the Mackenzie River 
 district, in charge of Mr. O'Brien, reached our 
 encampment, and the boats were successively taken 
 up the rapid by a steersman of great experience 
 and skill. In the ascent they were partly rowed, 
 partly tracked up with a stout rope, manned by two 
 crews united ; the steersman stood in the stem 
 handling the huge sweep, more than twenty feet 
 long, which senses in place of a rudder, and one 
 or two men were stationed in the forepart of the 
 boat to keep her from striking the rocks ; about 
 two and a half hours were' expended in the passage 
 of this rapid, including unloading and loading. We 
 

 M 
 
 ' 1 ■ I • 
 
 f 
 1 1 
 
 P ! i 
 
 i 
 
 , 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 t 
 1 
 
 too 
 
 FMULATU>N OK VOYAUF.UKS. 
 
 l)renkfaate(l nt the head of tlu^ rapid, and wWxU". 
 so engagod W(^re joined by Messrs. Bell and Rasa, 
 who had brought np the second brigade. 
 
 The flotilla was divided into two brigades or bands 
 
 for convenience, as the whole number would delay 
 
 each other's progress up tlie rapids, and enibar»"\ss 
 
 the portages in the conveyance of goods ; for tnis 
 
 reason it is customary for one division to leave head- 
 
 (piarters some days in advance of the otlic , but the 
 
 emulation of the men is such that the hii]idmo^,f. 
 
 party make the most strenuous exertions to reach 
 
 the vanguard, and in this they frecpu'ntly succeed, 
 
 as they are generally the stronger and more active. 
 
 At a short distance from the Noye we encountered the 
 
 Pelican Rapid ; here the craft were entirely cleared 
 
 and dragged over a ridge of rocks ; the rest of the 
 
 rapid was accomplished with great laboiu* and some 
 
 risk, the bows of the boats being fre(|uently high 
 
 upraised and the water rushing in at the stern ; at 
 
 one part of this rapid a " batteau " was lost last 
 
 year. Next came the Mountain, and this beinj^ a 
 
 regular fall of about ten feet the boats ^oald not of 
 
 course ascend it, but were dragged over a steep and 
 
 rugged ledge of rocks at an angle of 45" with the 
 
 horizon. Hence we proceeded to the BrM^, and 
 
 having carried the goods across the portage encampeci 
 
I»ICTUH KSQUK WATKR-FALLS. 
 
 401 
 
 iiul wliil« 
 [Uid Hoss, 
 
 n or bands 
 mid delay 
 enibai'^'^ss 
 ; tor tu'xA 
 Mvo liend- 
 !• , but the 
 hii)dmof.t 
 . to reach 
 r succeed, 
 )re active, 
 ntered the 
 iy cleared 
 jst of the 
 aud some 
 iitly high 
 stem ; at 
 lost last 
 i beiu'T a 
 
 O 
 
 ild not of 
 steep and 
 with the 
 r^l^, and 
 encamped 
 
 for the night, as here it was necessary to transport 
 the beats also by land, a distance of about four 
 hundred yards. This was accomplished next morning, 
 and our journey was continued to the Embarras, so 
 called from the great quantities- of drift wood which 
 obstnict the stream and render a portage of every- 
 th.'ng necessary. The island rapid was narrow and 
 swift, but we were enabled to ascend it with half- 
 laden craft. The " Cassette," our next difficidty, and 
 the last i-apid in Slave River, Avas of picturesque 
 beauty : it was composed of several falls in succession, 
 one of which, viewed from below, was quite a gem 
 among Nature's bountiful productions : the water fell 
 in dense b-oken volumes between two portals of 
 abrupt black rock, steep and massive ; spaikling 
 silvery spray, diamond-like in the brilliance of its 
 hues, becapped the mass, dancing and glistening in 
 the bright sunlight as if in gladness at its freedom ; 
 a back ground of hilly foliage, varied in light and 
 colour, perfected this exquisite combination of still 
 and animated scenery. 
 
 This rapid being impassable we had to renevr the 
 
 ^ labour of a portage, " carrying " over bare rock 
 for about 400 yards' distance, over which also the 
 boats were dragged. A new operation had now 
 
 1^ to be performed ; the numerous portages over rock 
 
 DD 
 
Ill i ; 
 
 I. 
 
 
 
 , 1 
 
 !■ 
 
 1^ 
 
 V \ 
 
 102 " nriiNiNo ont vkssel. 
 
 and ro!' ,Ii grouiul liad •greatly jaggixl tlu; sirles 
 and k(.'('ls of onr vr!<s(>ls, which therefore required 
 " burning." 
 
 Tlio rnfjfged splinters are cut away, and tlic wood 
 sniootlnul off us well as may ])e with the crooiied 
 knite — an implement in universal use in the country, 
 having, as its name implies, a bent blade and handle, 
 and greatly resembling those used by l)1acksmiths in 
 shoeing horses. Large pieces of birch bark, burning 
 with a fierce and lurid thime, are ignited under the 
 boat, and fs''*'i»**t' is rubbed over the l)ottom to 
 decrease resistance in passing through the water; 
 soft n^sin is also nppli^ul to cracks or holes m thi 
 planks. - 
 
 In the evening of the twelfth a partial eclipse of 
 the nu)on occnirred, and we also obscTved a most 
 splendid meteor, which bore a train like a bursting 
 rocket, and so nnich resend)letl a comet, remainhig 
 stationary for a considerable time, that vvc sought for 
 it next evening, but had no recurrence of the 
 phenon»enon, and ('oncluded that it nuist have been 
 a meteor oi* fire-ball. The weather at this pei'iod 
 was in strong contrast to that, of our winter'vS 
 sojourn ; during the liottest days we registered 83" 
 of Fahrenheit in shade, 104' ni the sun, and by 
 concentrating the rays of that body upon a black 
 
 
 e-, 
 
 ( 
 
lh(! sides 
 1 required 
 
 the wood 
 c crooked 
 
 IC COIIlltl), 
 
 nd hfuullu, 
 ksiiiitlis in 
 k, biiniiiig 
 utuler the 
 bottom to 
 tlie water ; 
 oies in the 
 
 eeli[)se ot" 
 
 :^d u niosi 
 
 a burstinix 
 
 rcTnainmg 
 
 songiit for 
 
 ce of tlie 
 
 have been 
 
 this period 
 
 ir winter's 
 
 ;isterc(l 83" 
 
 n, and by 
 
 ;)n a l)laek 
 
 1 
 
 » 
 
 l,AN(;r V(iK ol' Tni', '. nil'KWYANs. 
 
 4oa 
 
 sulistanre ol)tain(Ml as high as II'.'". On the I Ith 
 we entered the Riviere dr l{(»eher, tljenei^ passed into 
 t' e Athubusca Lake, and in the evening landed at 
 Fort Chip<'wyan. which was once the hea<i-fjuarters, 
 (in this side Methy Portage, ol' the Xortli-Weat 
 Company, once the rival of the llndsons' Bay 
 Company, with which however a coalition was formed, 
 I beh(^ve nboiit the year lS;i7. We were politely 
 received by Mr 'Todd, and at supper vvere introduced 
 to the P'^'re IMiarotix, a French missionary of the 
 Roman (-alholic religion, with whom I enjoyed the 
 privilege of much interesting conversation, Mons. 
 Pliaroux had apparently devoted eonsidi-ndile time 
 to the stml}' of the Indians iu this locality, who 
 consist chietly of Chi))ewyaiis, nr " jMountains," and 
 Crees. The men w<'re mostly tall, well made, 
 and moderately stout ; the females were generally 
 tall, slight, and wcll-featuUMl. With vefercnce to the 
 language of the Chiptnvyans, Mons. Pharoiix observed 
 that their grammatical rules are distiuctlv defined, 
 though eccentric, and of almost iuiiniti- variety, cert.iin 
 terminatitms or pretives being applied to words in 
 chisscs, or according to the sense in which they vvere 
 to be \ised ; ns, for instance, tl ings animate or 
 inanimate, nr.tural or artiiicial, wTre distinguished by 
 certain terms e\]>ressing tlu' quality • and here again 
 
 u r 2 
 
 II 
 
 4' 
 
i '. 
 
 I, 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 104 
 
 l)fSTIN<il'IMIIlN<l (MIARACTKKISTK.'S. 
 
 another division, if it may so l)o cailcd, of duss, 
 occuinMl, for .ti spi-aking of a liousc abstractedly one 
 term would l)e used, but when s|)eaking of it in 
 connection witli anything in or about it n new 
 expression became necessary. • -' 
 
 Moiis Pharoux drew a broad line of (U'niiircatioii 
 between the cliaructers of the two races. '• Tho 
 Crocs," said he, " are (juick in comprelunision, seizing 
 an idea with readiness, but, like a mirror, they retaiu 
 the impression so long oidy as the matter is before 
 them, and the conse(iuenre is it has in a short time 
 to be entirely re-explained. The Chipewyans, on the 
 contrary, are very slow (not dull) of comprehension, 
 and pi'eserve a greater impassibdity of expression ; so 
 that oft<!n, after exj)lahiing a point of ditKculty, ono 
 would dismiss them with the idea that they could 
 not understiiiul it, but would find, on (luestioning 
 them afterwards, even at six months' distance of time, 
 that they had either understood the subject at once 
 or had pondered over it until })erfect comprehension 
 was arrived at, and that the impression of the matter 
 was, moreover, a lasting one." 
 
 1 was told here of an Indian of the Beaver tribe, 
 who, after having experienced with many others the 
 horrors of starvation in 1 840, visited in the spring of 
 the following year the fort at Dunvegen. Tho 
 
if rlnss, 
 viWy one 
 oC it in 
 n new 
 
 ijircafion 
 
 1, si;i/,ing 
 
 ey rttiiin 
 
 is l)('t'ore 
 
 lort tinio 
 
 IS, on tlio 
 
 lu'nsion, 
 
 ssion ; so 
 
 'ulty, ono 
 
 lev could 
 
 lestioning 
 
 B of tinie, 
 
 - ut once 
 
 rehension 
 
 tie iimttcr 
 
 ver tribe, 
 thers the 
 sprijig of 
 n. 'Iho 
 
 *^ 
 
 >1 
 
 CANNlllAI.ISM. 
 
 405 
 
 gentlomnn in chnrgo of tlic l*ost otKuvd liini l>is linnd 
 in greeting, but it vvns declined, as were also the 
 salutatiouH of other Indians present. When asked 
 the reason of his strange demeanour, \\v. re|)lie(l, "I 
 am not worthy to shake hands with men ; I am no 
 longer a man, for I have eaten man's flesh. It is 
 true 1 was starving, was dying of hunger ; but I 
 cannot forgive myself; the thought of the act is 
 killing me, and 1 shall die soon, and with content- 
 ment, for although I still exist 1 cannot any longer 
 consider myself a human being." Ibi had, as I 
 understood, since died. I 
 
 This is very different from the conduct of the 
 Slaves and Dogribs, who seem to have little regret 
 for the commission of such acts, although the rest 
 of the tribtis regard them with abhorrence (or fear ?) 
 and will seldom intermarry with them. 
 
 This reminds me of an old Indian at Fort Simpson 
 named Geero, who had, it was said, assisted in the 
 consumption of eighteen hidividuals during periods 
 of stfirvation, and was reported to prefer human flesh 
 to any other. While we were wintering at that fort 
 I was very desirous of going off for u few days into 
 the woods to try and find reindeer or moose under 
 the guidance of an Indian, but it so ha})j)ened that 
 only Geero was at the fort when my wish was 
 
406 
 
 SPRINGS OF NATURAL PITCH. 
 
 i! 
 
 iim'^^ 
 
 i I. 
 
 cxjjressed, and th^t gentleman refused to be my 
 convoy : after much solicitation and pressing for iiis 
 reason, he told the interpreter that the truth of the 
 matter was he did not dare to trust himself with any 
 one alone in the woods, as he might be tempted to 
 treat himself to a repast of his much-esteemed fare. • 
 On the 16th we quitted Fort Chipewyan, and 
 speedily got out of the " Lake of the Hills," as that 
 of Athabasca is frequently called, entering the 
 "Embarras" — a narrow sluggish stream, apparently 
 an arm of the Athabasca Rivoi', into which we 
 emtirged next day. We encountin'cd on the Ibth 
 some springs of natural j)itcli, which oozes out of 
 tlie ground in a half liquid condition, and hardens 
 at the surface ; it is used extensively for the boats 
 which are made in the country. 
 
 We now l)egan to iind b( rries tolerably ripe, and 
 re\elled in their refreshing delights , tlun-e were many 
 knuls, but the most plentiful and the most pleasant 
 were raspbt^rries, gooseberrit>s imd currants, of which 
 latter two kinds of black preponderated. 
 
 Till 21st found us at the junction of the Great 
 and Little Atlial)asca Rivers ; the latter is generally 
 called the " Cleai' Water," and its title is well 
 (h.'sei'ved ; we turned ofl' into it, and continued to 
 ascend until the Cascade was reached - -a small shallow 
 
 k 
 
 I 
 
 I i 
 
be my 
 
 for his 
 h of the 
 with any 
 npted to 
 led fare. 
 Ill, uiul 
 " as that 
 •iiig tlie 
 iparently 
 iiich vvi' 
 ^he Ibth 
 s out of 
 hardens 
 he boats 
 
 ripe, and 
 
 ere many 
 
 pleasant 
 
 of wliieJi 
 
 le Great 
 ,'enerally 
 is well 
 nued to 
 i shnilow 
 
 7TINERAKY 
 
 407 
 
 rapid where it was necessary to unload the boats, 
 arid make a portage of nearly half a mile in length. 
 After this came the Boime, of which the portage is 
 q dte a mile long, bnt here were encamped numerous 
 Indians with horses, and the men were spared the 
 labour of " can-yiiig." .Next morning the Bigstonc 
 and Pine Rapids were successively passed with slight 
 delay, and wt; reached the Terre Blanche in the 
 afternoon ; this was a succession of short steep falls, 
 and both goods and boats had to be transported across 
 the I'ouage. 
 
 On the 20th we arrived at Methy Portage, and 
 had now no longer to ascend, but Avonld henceforth 
 continually go dow^n ciu-rent, luiless in lakes, to the 
 sea. This portage is across a height of land, and as 
 it is nhie or ten miles long, the goods only are 
 transported on horscliack, boats l)chig stationed at 
 either eml, and exchanging their cargoes. 
 
 W(; commenced our desct'nt toA\ards York Factory 
 on the tiOth, poled out of the tiny meandering Loclie, 
 entered the jVIetliy Lake, and thence passed int(.^ the 
 river of the same name — a very narrow and shallow 
 stream. Buffalo Lake was traversed on the 31st, 
 and the Ist of August carried us into Deep River, 
 and Isle a la Crosse Lake ; tlu; fort of this name was 
 reached in the afternoon. Atliahasca Lake has a 
 
408 
 
 CUHIOUS VHENOMKNON. 
 
 (.1 :; 
 
 1 1 
 
 It > & 
 
 m 
 
 i 
 
 remiaikable charactenstic ; the water is ])eifec'tl\ 
 crowded with green particles Hkc short pieces oii 
 hair ; they are apparently separated from vegetatiort 
 at the bottom by the agitation of the water, as 1 
 understood that in winter, when frozen over, the lake 
 is quite clear. The conceit struck me that this was 
 the hair-cutting saloon of the mermaids and mermen, 
 and these capillary particles the refuse of their 
 verdant locks. . . > , 
 
 It would needlessly occupy the time of my readers 
 did 1 detail every circumstance of our rapid downward 
 route ; I shall therefore content myself with mention- 
 hig only the more remarkable points of this very 
 interesting journey. Running a rapid is one of the 
 most exhilarating incidents one can experience ; the 
 excitement and risk lend enchantment to ihe occasion, 
 and one's spirits rise to the boiling point. We were 
 under the guidance of the first rapid pilot in the 
 country, who had had charge, for more than twenty 
 years, of the boats which each season carry su])plies 
 to Methy Portage for the Mackenzie River District, 
 and convey the furs of that brigade to York 
 Factory, but even L'Esperance, whose skill and 
 . iperiencc were undoulotediv very great, could not 
 avoid "breaking" a boat sometimes. 
 
i 
 
 
 })eifcctly 
 'pieces of 
 egetaticd 
 ter, as 1 
 the lake 
 this was 
 mermen, 
 of their 
 
 y readers 
 ownward 
 mention- 
 his very 
 ne of the 
 nee ; the 
 occasion, 
 iVe were 
 t in the 
 n twenty 
 supplies 
 District, 
 o York 
 kill and 
 ould not 
 
 CHAPTER XXIll. 
 
 Kuuuing a Rapid. — A Riipiil Catalogue. — Portago Jn Diablo. — A f;«tiii 
 disaster.- Tales by tin; way. — Riviero Mtiligne. — The ' PaB." — Norvvay 
 House.— Lert Poites d'Eufer. — Return liouie. 
 
 We have jnst arrived at the head of a bad rapid, 
 and are preparing to " run " it : will yon take a, seat 
 with us in the l)oat, reader, and share the striking 
 episode? Come then. 
 
 See, our old steersman, vvho has held the sweep 
 during ordinary progress, now relinquishes it to 
 ]j'E.sperance, who will here trust only to his own well- 
 tried experience and sagacity; the steersman and 
 bow^men plant themselves in the bows with long poles 
 to push off from rocks or stones, and assist the guide 
 in altering the direction of the vessel's progress. 
 Hitherto 'we have been quietly gliding down a 
 moderate cm'rent, but now — " otcs-voiis pret ? — 
 tePiiZ !" we enter the race, and in an instant are whirled 
 into the midst of the boiling rapid, and rush headlong 
 onwards with lightning speed, the water bubbling 
 and foaming and roaring aronnd u.^. spray dashing 
 
 ^■1 
 
410 
 
 A DANGEROUS UAIMI). 
 
 into our faces, and the crew straining at their oars as 
 if for bare life — now all together, now on one side only, 
 and now all suddenly backing water at a shout from 
 the guido, who sees that huge stone right hi our 
 course. Round with the sweep ! push off with those 
 poles ! backwater, good oarsmen, or we must strike, 
 and shall iai'ailibly smash to pii'ces ! IJa ! a long 
 breatli of suspense — hurra ! there we go safely past 
 the rc>ck ; but heavens ! there is another we cannot 
 escap>? ; pull men, pull ! kee]) her bow off, boys, 
 push, hard ! Ila ! there's a shock, we've struck the 
 stone, and for an instant hang upon it ; the seething 
 waters rushing past, and in tlu'ir frantic endeavours to 
 bear us onward straining every plank and thuber, 
 winch crack loudly. " Ah bonDieu ! Ah Seigneur ! 
 Brise en inorceaux ! " such ara the impassioned 
 exclaniations which display th(5 alarm and anxiety of 
 our giude, who redoubles his efforts notwithstanding, 
 and, actively seconded by the crew — who vie with 
 liiin in exertions and noise — he succeeds in releasiu^ 
 the craft, and, whirUng round for an instant in a 
 bid)bling eddy, we rush on again like a steam-engine. 
 Do you see that black abrupt point of rocks, against 
 which the torrent hurls itself in impotent fiu*y, 
 dashing high hi snowy masses and sparkling foam, 
 and those surging rollers passing ovtu' rocky olistruc- 
 
 t 
 
THE TRIAL PASSED. 
 
 411 
 
 1* oars as 
 iidt; only, 
 )ut from 
 ; ill our 
 itli those 
 st strike, 
 a long 
 ift'ly past 
 m cannot 
 )ff, boys, 
 truck the 
 seething 
 avours to 
 i timber, 
 Seigneur ! 
 passioned 
 iinxiety of 
 istanding, 
 vie witli 
 releasiii:? 
 tant in a 
 ni-engine. 
 LS, ag{iinst 
 ent furv, 
 ling foam, 
 ^ olistruc- 
 
 »n 
 
 tions, beyond whicli the angry stream hangs for a 
 moment in gurgling gyrations- tlK;n speeds on agam 
 in wild career? At that spot there is a dangerous 
 turn of the stream, and a riglit difUeult task shall 
 we have to guide our frail bark in safety beyond 
 that frowning extremity, and through those lurking 
 obstacles, Steady, lads, steady : mind your oars and 
 watch mc well, — pall easy for a moment, —now pull ! 
 j)ull ! /jo/i ! easy now, easy ; now pull hard the 
 larboard, backwater the starboard oars ! — Oh Ciel 1 ! 
 nous soinmes crevc; sur le roclie ! push oflf' with the 
 ()oles — pull ' larboard oars push, push ! backwater, 
 stai'board, back — push, push ! there, she tm-ns 1 push, 
 pull ! — we rush frantically onwards at fui'ious speed — a 
 moment of intense excitement and uncertainty, then, 
 Ah, grand Dieu, merci ! relaxed speed and smoother 
 water tc^ll that the dithculty is ])assed. Our own trial 
 is ended ; let us turn to watch the fortunes of our 
 companion boats. See, tlie foremost nears the crooked 
 channel, the crew pulling lightly and quietly in 
 preparation for the ap))roaching struggle ; now the 
 stt'ersnian shouts lustily to his crcAv, and vigorously 
 plies tiie long sweep to swing his boat ; the rowers 
 labour at their oars like tigers ; the bowmen shift 
 their poles from spot to spot, as each emergency 
 needs, and our comrade hurrie.s towards I in- narrow 
 
i i 
 
 m !i 
 
 !i Ji 
 
 - I 
 
 L 
 
 41 ;i 
 
 NARROW fiSCAl'E, 
 
 bend ; but see, see ! they will strike, they will he 
 smashed to atoms. They are lost ! Pusli oti", good 
 bowmen ! — push, l)rave fellows ! There 1 ! No — tliey 
 are safe ! That pole \eld its footing well ; and, just 
 brushing the rock, the boat swings lightly off, and is 
 vii a moment reposing quietly by our side. The next 
 bai'ge approaches the dangerous point; she also 
 seems to be running into the very jaAvs of destruction, 
 but her bilge strikes one of the hiddcjn stones. She 
 hangs for a moment, is swung round by the resistless 
 current, and now, heading right down the channel, 
 releases herself from the stone, and gains the tranquil 
 space below the rapid. But look, look ! her crew 
 are pulling in haste for the shore, and shouting loudly 
 for aid : the l)oat is stove, imd rapidly filling. We 
 hasten t-j her side ; and in a ft^w seconds eighty 
 packs of furs are transferred from her to our craft, 
 and we all hurry to shore, and drag her u[) on the 
 beach, where she is speedily repaired. 
 
 Such are some of the incidents which attend the 
 descent of djuigerous rapids, which I neetl scai-cely 
 observe are formed by obstruction of the course of 
 tlu; stream, or by a sudden and irregular inchne in 
 its bed. Few scenes can be more stirrmg ; the 
 rushing waters, full of whirlpools, hidden rocks, aiui 
 counter-currents. h»amirig, bubhlin*::, roaring, and 
 
ITINRRAKV 
 
 413 
 
 ^ will be 
 oli", good 
 Vo — they 
 
 and, just 
 )ft', and is 
 The Tiext 
 
 shi.' also 
 istruction, 
 lies. She 
 
 resistless 
 e channel, 
 iC tranquil 
 
 her erew 
 ing loudly 
 f. We 
 ds eighty 
 our craft, 
 i|) on the 
 
 ittend the 
 I sctiix^ely 
 course of 
 incline in 
 rnig ; the 
 ocks, and 
 iiig, and 
 
 madly bounding onwards — the consciousness of risk 
 to be incurred by a single error or accident, and the 
 mingled cries of the boatmen, half French-Canadian, 
 half English, present as wild a scene as could lie 
 witnessed. 
 
 The Puise, Crooked, Middle, and Knee rapids, 
 Knee and Sandy lakes, the Ser})ent Ra))id, the 
 Scpent and Moose lakes, the I'in, Birchwood, 
 and Canot Tourne rapids, were successively passed on 
 the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th ; then proceeded we through 
 the Lake of the Bear islets, this having, although called 
 a lake, a strong current running through, and several 
 rapids in it,' of which I pause only to mention the 
 Rapide qui ne parle pas, so called from its silent, 
 though swift course, and the Cardinal, whose ways 
 were very crooked. Next, passing the Willow 
 Portage, w^e entered Trout Lake, and the Trout and 
 Ecore rapids, pulled through the jjake des Ecoires, 
 and descended the Bigstone river, in which were 
 several rapids ; then came the Lakes des Cotes and 
 du Diable, followed by a rapid and a portage also 
 assigned to his Satani" Majesty. W'c now reached 
 the other rapid, sejoarating the smaller Diable from 
 the Otter Lake. It was very deep, although turbulent, 
 and little hazard was incurred in runiiing it, but its 
 ascent is not so safe. I was told that Sir John 
 
 1 1^1 
 
 V* ,11 
 
 ^l> 
 
414 
 
 ANOTHER DANGEROUS RAPID. 
 
 '■ I n 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 Fmnklhi's canoe capsized here in 1822, on his first 
 expedition to the Mackenzie, and one of the crew 
 was drowned. Tn running tlie Mountain iiapid one 
 of the boats was badly " stove," but such accidents 
 occiuTed so frequently, that they were disregarded, 
 except for the delay occasioned by the necessary 
 repairs. Almost every Hudson's Bay man is a rough 
 carpenter, and a hole is speedily patched ii[) with a 
 piece of plank, some resin, and a Tew nails. On 
 the 7th we met the Athabasca [brigade, and shortly 
 afterwards encountered a brigade of boats under 
 Mr. Anderson, of which three were laden with peni- 
 inican and flom-, for the use of any })ortion of the 
 sought or searching expeditions which might ascend 
 the Mackenzie. 
 
 Tiie grand Rapid du P'ort de Traite re(|uired great 
 judgment in its descent, having three successive 
 stages of ])assage. Here five or six years ago an 
 English half-caste lost his life ; having missed his 
 footing in the boat of which he was bowman, he 
 pitched headlong into the seething torrent, and was 
 drowned : his term of sei-vice had just expired, and 
 he was retunung to the Red River colony, accom- 
 panied by his wife and family, who at the time 
 of the disaster were (juietly seated at the foot of 
 the rapid, awaiting the descent of the boats, and 
 
 • 
 
1 
 
 Ills first 
 
 the cnw 
 
 iiipid one 
 
 iiecidciits 
 
 regarded, 
 
 nceessary 
 
 rt riHigli 
 
 up with a 
 
 ails. On 
 
 d shortly 
 
 its unchir 
 
 k'ith peni- 
 
 ^11 of the 
 
 ;ht ascend 
 
 ired great 
 suecessivc 
 rs ago an 
 iiisscul his 
 wmari, lie 
 
 and was 
 )ire(l and 
 y, aeeom- 
 
 the time 
 le foot of 
 oats, and 
 
 I 
 
 k 
 
 
 ^., 
 
 A WHOLE DAY Sl'fc^NT IN FOLINO 
 
 415 
 
 Uttle 
 
 ■tin 
 
 ff. poor 
 
 til 
 
 ings 
 
 ! tl 
 
 u;ir s 
 
 ad 
 
 and suddiMi 
 
 expeeL...^^, 
 bereavement. 
 
 This r(/ut(; lias l)(>eu ti'avelled ovov for so many 
 years, that there was a tale for almost every day's 
 joiirney. Here a man was drowned; there one was 
 buried ; at this spot stooil a fori in the time of the 
 two companies ; in that direction a (]uari-el occm'red 
 between their servants ; and hmumerable trilling 
 incidents, or olher points of interest, Hll uj) the uiter- 
 meiliate distances ; nor is superstition absent herein. 
 In the case of the poor ftUow whose death I have 
 above noticed, there were legends of corj)s(? candles 
 and other omens having been seen, the mght before 
 he met his fate, by two perscuis at a distcnce from 
 each other. 
 
 At the Portag(! du lioul-au the empty boats were 
 lowered tk)wn the rapid with ropes, the stream being 
 siieivmg, swift, and shallow. In the 'Accursed" 
 Rivei" an entire day was |)assed in poling, or dragging 
 ov(!r stones and rocks, rough and sharp, and in many 
 places scarcely covered by the stream, whose velocit}' 
 was, notwithstanding, very considerable ; and the 
 boats were all much injured. Cumberland Lake and 
 House were reached on the 13th. and the ''Pas," 
 a missionary station presided over by the Rev. 
 Mr. Hunter, next morning. A very neat church luul 
 
MO 
 
 MISSIONARY STATION. 
 
 \ 
 
 ,': 
 
 hccu built here, and great progress has, I believe, 
 beini made in the eonversiou of the Indiana in this 
 locality. We were indebted to Mr. Hunter for sup- 
 plies of eggs, bread, and vegtstables ; thiise were 
 grpiid luxuries to us in those days. The (iirand 
 Rapid at the (jntrance to Lake Winnipeg is one of 
 the longest in the country : it is swift and turbulent; 
 but biing very deep, may be passed hi safety with 
 moderate caution. We were twenty -five minutes 
 running it, and then entered Luke Winnipeg ; and on 
 the 18th reached Norway House, one of tlu; most 
 im])ortant of the inland stations ; it is extensive, and 
 in fine order, having a large garden in full caltivation, 
 for which it did not seem ungrateful, producing flowers 
 and vegetables in profusion. Chief Factors Ross 
 and Barnston, with the;r families, were here, the 
 former being about to resign the charge of the post, 
 which he had held for many years, to the latter 
 gentleman : I feel bound to acknowledge, with 
 j)leasure, their kind and courteous attentions. 
 
 On the 21st, two very bad rapids, called Les 
 Fortes d'Enfer, had to be run ; and notwithstanding 
 the great experience and exertions of our guide and 
 steersmen, not a single boat escaped injury. 
 
 Oxford House, in Oxford Lake, was touched at on 
 the 23rd ; during the thrcic following days we 
 
 i 
 
^ .th.HitHttmt 
 
 Xnmf4t»' 'iff Mttf'ffh \'X , 
 
 1 ■}-\ 
 
 
 ■ ''X ~ 
 
 l/V 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 '^ 
 
 /..o«''' 
 
 ■)l«l " 
 
 
 -'f 
 
 ^M 
 
 V 
 
 
 / 
 
tm< 
 
 >n. 
 
 ^rtd 
 
 I to 
 
 i«|i> 
 
 lt>> 
 
 l4o llo 
 
 Ml M* k4 U< »« IM •« »•« Vm 
 
 Tunkl titiliir'4 
 
 ; Ointrhw^f^ f //itrhaur 
 h, •>.»,.„ 
 
 /T '"..-*'/»»« 
 
 ttrr /!'*'■' ftftt**r.t 
 
 V:^ ; <> f ' \ T 11 Y () V T 1^ * 
 
 »OAr i:.V|»K»lTH 
 
I^'» l4o llo iln \\i* Irt^, 
 
 <><•-•• M M« M t>« »■ iM »« ,n« VM «M k4 W* M »« •• h* — » !*• » A mm JlJk. Wft.^.^ "^w- 
 
 illoxlliiiiiii; 
 
 
 
 ,.^^' 
 
 ^^^i/^,^ 
 ^w...^--. 
 
 \ ^.. ./' \? j/r-^^^ 
 
 •«'' '••^ A. 
 
 f'lJWJ. ifitl Lilttr/ h'Ki-ria.ui". i »"ii*i;^ : • 
 
( 
 
 ]cscoi\t\et| 
 liicU is 
 
 \\ 
 
 tlic 37tU 
 acUeA 
 
 re 
 
 desired ' 
 I in boats 
 The l\ 
 
 Wales," 
 supplies, 
 roads, ai 
 as lior l£ 
 tlic Fact 
 enougli 
 On t^ 
 passeng 
 the 9t1 
 three v 
 nearly 
 more 
 

 VT IIOMK. 
 
 417 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 (Icsnoiuled tlio I Till and Steol livors, the former of 
 M liicli is full of bad rapids, entered the Hay River on 
 the 27th, and early in the morning of the 28th, 
 reached York Factory in Hudson's Bay, the long- 
 desired end of a wearying though interesting journey, 
 in boats, of nearly three months. 
 
 The Pludson's Bay Company's ship, " Prince of 
 Wales," which annually visits York Factory with 
 supplies, and bears back a freight of furs, lay hi the 
 roads, and by her we were to return to England ; but 
 as her lading was not yet complete, we remained at 
 the Factoiy for ten days, which were passed pleasantly 
 enough i'l the agreeable society of its inmates. 
 
 On tlie 7tli of September we embarked, with other 
 passengers, on board the " Prince of Wales," sailed on 
 the 9tli, and, having had a very rapid passage of 
 three weeks, reached Old England after an absence of 
 nearly four years, half frantic with delight to be once 
 more 
 
 AT HOME. 
 
 K K 
 
I.ONDOW : 
 llliAinit'llY ANI( KVAVS, I'KIN-TKRK, Will ILfRCAll-S. 
 
Al.ItK.MARLK SrnKKT, 
 
 June, 18.'i;<. 
 
 MR MURRAY'S - 
 LIST OF NEW WORKS. 
 
 t»4 
 
 SIR HUDSON LOWE'S LETTERS AND JOT'RNALS. 
 
 giving for the first time the HISTORY OF THK CAPTIVITY Or 
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 Portrait. 3 vols. 8vo. 
 
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 MARQUIS OF LONDONDERRY. 4 vols. 8vo. 5rt.x. 
 
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 REV. DR. HOOK'S DISCOURSES BEARIVO ON TTIE 
 
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 MR. GROTES HISTORY OF GREECE. Continued from 
 
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 {Tlie Twelfth Voluntf will complete tin' wnrJc.) 
 
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 CRIME: ITS Amount, Causes, and llEMiiDiEs. By FREDERICK 
 
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 MY NINE YEARS' HOME IN TASMANIA. Bv Mrs. 
 
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 LIVES OF THE EARLS OF ESSEX, in the Reigns of 
 
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 and DocuiueiitH. By Hon, Capt. DEVEREUX, R.N. 2 vols. 8vo, 30*. 
 
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 Popiditf Edition. Vols. I. to III. PoHt Svn, (!«, each. 
 
 ^1 C 
 
 ^3 
 ?5 4 
 
ATTVE 
 
 Mil] I ami 
 
 )NTHS 
 in Search 
 
 Govern- 
 ;ii)ns, By 
 0. !')«• 
 
 Govern - 
 
 ' ' Modern 
 
 ivo of U- 
 .IID, M.P. 
 
 :is. 
 
 I Sec^ond 
 a Nineveh. 
 
 I A AND 
 
 jodcutrt, '2 
 
 DERICK 
 
 By Mrs. 
 18«. 
 
 Heigns of 
 
 inily Li'ttorn 
 ,8. 8vo. 30«. 
 
 . HOOK. 
 
 Itukcjit to 
 ;. ,V('U' and