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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. by errata led to ent une pelure, Fapon d h;- 1 : : 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 4 '• % . « # X^^^'-v •- ^..v- -•'-/'%>-• y* ^ .^-^ ^^^s^@^^' A Hand Book FOR Lake Memphremagog, WITH ROUTK LIST, Balance Rock, Lake Meniphrcinagog. By John Ross Dix, Aut'ior of " Pen and Ink Skctchef," &c., &c.. I t I \ J With Illuftrations by the Author. ■ | TO BE HAD AT ALL RAILWAY DEPOTS. PiucE 25 Cents. \^^%e^- '^SSl 6) I * TT A MD nooK N T J C E c Mn.e tins Book was published, the Conne.ti.u. and Ia..umpsic Rive.-. Railroad has heeu extended to New- port. tJ,e head of Lake Memphremagog. Travellers ,a„ now v.s.Mh.s charming sheet of water without ehanu,. ot Cars frotn Boston, a,.,) o„|^- o.,.. ehautre fro,,, N,.w York aiifl Burlington. A now and spacious Hotel has l,een re<.cntly crect.,1 on Uie Lake Shore, atfoniin- a fine view of the Lake fron, Its windows and piazzas. I'asseugers ste,, dire,-t fro,., the ,■«,> i„to the .ailroad depot. wh„d. is i„ the haseu.eut of hotel, tJ,„s avoidin,. tl." Muportutiities of .-oach .Irive.-s „„d the i„.-o,.vw,ieuee ot lookiu"' aftei' bajjiraae. Travelle,-s to White an.l K.-aueouia Mouotains rau leave the Moi.„tai„> in the „,ornii,n.. ,„„| ,„,„.,, ja ,.^ ■iiid Luke IMajiog at noon. The eeh'l.rated Copper Mi.ies of Canada, in,-lndino the button, Aseot, Aeton, Orfo,-d. Dndsweil, &e.. and the re <-ently dis.M.vered (ioM Mines, a.v .-enehe.l in a few hours from Newport. l^ The Route Table, on Pages 53, 54, 55 and 56 IS incorrect. See Appleton\s antl l^athfinder Railwav *h table-land about half a mile from either bank. You may notice on the depot platform, some spruce young Cadets in uniform, chatting with pale, or mcrry- visaged student-looking young men ; the former are from Norwich University, a Military Educational Es- tablishment ; the latter from Dartmouth College, (Free Bridge) at Hanover. Six miles further on is Ompompa- noosuc Station, before reaching which, we note several islands in the river. The euphonious appellation of the place is derived from the fact that formerly it abounded in wild onions — possibly it was the " Weth- ersfield" of the Indians. Thetford, famous for its Academy, is next reached ; then North Thetford, Fair- . ( I MEMPHREMAGOG. expan- as well e moun- ms and ig trees But a efficient and in en route ver, just ell is to Cross- tation is lese vil- 1 lies on er bank. spruce r mcrrj- mer are )nal Es- e, (Free apompa- i several ation of nerly it <-' Weth- for its ird, Fair- lee, Orford, and Piermont Crossing, a quarter of a mile from which, is the picturesque old bridge over the Connecticut, (for an engraving of which, see page 11,) After a ride of five miles we pass Bradford and get to the Haverhill depot ; the village on tlie New Hamp- shire side of the river is beautifully situated on a table- land, high above the stream. Far beyond, is seen Moose Hillock, 4,686 feet high, the Sugar Loaf Moun- tain and Black Hill. The river views here are remark- ably fine, and the meadows wonderfully verdant, ov/iiig to the frequent overflowing of the Connecticut, which, receding, leaves, Nile-like, a rich deposit of alluvia on the land. Newbury — perhaps the prettiest village on the river, now appears in sight — Mount Pulaski forming a mag- nificent back ground to its churches, ils well known Wesley an Academy, stores and dwelling houses. Here is one of the best hotels in the State — the Newburv House, kept by Mr. Nelson B. Stevens. If time per- mits, the tourist should by all means spend a day, at least, here, and ascend Pulaski, from whose summit he will have one of the finest views of the valley and river. Here too are the far-famed Sulphur Springs, to which in summer hundreds of invalids resort. Near Newbury is a fine bend of the river called the Great Ox-Bow, a sketch of which we give on the next page. Leaving Newbury, we see on our right, in the dis- tance, the Franconia Range, which alone hide the White Moxmtains ; and shooting along the base of In- 8 MEMPHREMAGOG. gall's hill, reach Wells River Village, where is the ter- minus of the White Mountain Railroad. Still run- ning by the river side, we next reach Mclndoes, where there is one of the finest falls on the Connecticut. A mile or two further on is Barnet, a place almost exclu- sively inhabited by Scotchmen, some '' cannie" Caledo- nians having purchased the land on which it stands, years ago, and their descendants still keeping posses- sion of it. IS B{ Great Ox-Bo\ir. MEMPHREMAGOG. 9 le ter- ruii- wlierc rt. A xclu- alcdo- taiids, losses- I .* ".'I Here tlie track leaves the banks of the Connecticut and g'oes thundering along the banks of the Passump- sic River, (a tributary of the former,) past McLerans and Passumpsic Depot, to St. Johnsbury, one of the most important places in Vermont. Here is a capital Hotel, the St. Johnsbury House, kept by Mr. Watson. Here is located the world-renowned Scale Factory of the Messrs. Fairbanks ; indeed these works and their surroundings, form a distinct village called after its founders, whose vast influence for good is owned and appreciated by all who know them. Fairbanks Village is well worthy a visit ; it is the very Eden of Manu- facturing Industry. After passing St. Johnsbury Centre, the Passumpsic becomes so very tortuous that one might fancy a gi- gantic corkscrevV had been, liquefied. Just before reaching Lyndon, there are some picturesque falls which will delight an artistic eye. The next station is West Burke, where stages arc in waiting to convey passengers to Willoughby Lake, (five miles distant ;) there Mr. Bemis keeps a first rate Hotel on the lake's bank. In a short time, after ascending a rather steep grade, the track runs along a high bank at the base of which is Bell Water Pond — a sheet of water about three miles in length, and averaging one in w^idth. It is famous for its longe. At the outlet of the pond is Barton, the present terminus of the Railroad, which, however, will soon be extended to Newport. There is little in Barton to detain the tourist. Mr. .1 I •a I 10 MEMPHREMACJOfJ. Milton D. Thompson, the very obliging and active De- pot Master, will afford strangers every facility in pro- curing stages to convey them the remaining 15 miles of their journey ; or if a stay for the niglit be preferred, there is the Barton Hotel, where Messrs. Hill & Ikick will show guests every attention. There is also a Hail- way Hotel, but stages run to and from the former house. Immediately on the arrival of the train, stages start for Newport, where we will suppose the reader to have arrived ; and now we are fairly on the banks of Lake Memphremagog, which as we descend the liill to the village, stretches away to the north, until in the far distance, it blends with the purple shadows of the sur- rounding mountains. Excellent accommodations may be found at the Memphremagog Hotel, which is famous among epicures for its fish. Pickerel, trout and longe are scarcely out of the lake, before, like St. Lawrence of old, they are broiling on a grid-iron — out of the water into the fire, may (to iis^ pleasantly vary the old adage. But we have no time for culinary raptures ; therefore let us mount the neighboring hill and get a general vicAV of the lake and landscape — 'twill well repay the trifling toil of climbing. This pedestrian feat accomplished, we hear as we descend, the bell of the Steamboat, and hurrying on Ave soon reach the wharf, at the end of which the " Mountain Maid" is (for it is 8 o'clock, A. M.) waiting for her living cargo. I i ^< 4 . i ■ ' % MEMPIlllKMAGOC!. 11 ive De- ill pro- 5 miles ferred, Ife ]]uck a Rail- former es start to have )f Lake . to the the far he sur- at the ipicures 3ely out liey are ;hc fire, But we let us view of trifling )lished, at, and end of )' clock, I Old Bridge at Piermont Crossing. If 12 M KM PH REM AGOG. I i ciiaptp:r II. Trip on the Lake — Ba?/s and Landing's — Passenger Portraits — Province Line and Istand — Whetstone Island — A Treasure Cave — The Mountain House, Here come the passengers by one's, and two's, and three's, at first, then in groups of a dozen or more — then one's and two's and three's again — and as tiie Captain cries " Let go there," — the inevitable last man, who (being of a portly and plethoric habit) comes panting and perspiring and looking daggers at the Captain, who we may here introduce to the reader as Captain Fogg, than whom we do not know a pleasanter or politer personage. In fact he is just the man for the position he occupies, and so well posted up as to the lake and everything concerning it, that had he time to answer all the questions put to him by his eager passengers, we might as well have left this Guide- b)ok unwritten. While the boat is rounding her bows to the north, we may as well give a brief, general sketch of the lake — whose name may at first be rather puzzling to tongues not quite as much accustomed to aboriginal nomeac- lature as Mr. Schoolcraft. Memphremagog is doubt- less a corruption of the Indian name, Mem plow -bou- I er, MEMPHREMACiOG. 13 'assenger Vhetstone House, w^o's, and r more — d as the last man, t) comes ps at the :eader as leasanter J man for up as to i had he n by his lis Guide- lorth, we le lake — ) tongues nomeac- is doubt- vlow-boU' 2. I lb que^ which signifios a large, beautiful expanse of water ; at least, so says Mr. Pratt, in his Gazetteer of Vermont. Its extreme length is nearly 50 miles — but only a lit- tle over 30 miles are navigable by large boats. The average breadth is about three miles. About one-third of its length is situated in Vermont — the remaining two-thirds are in Canada. Three streams empty them- selves into it at its southern extremity ; the Clyde, Barton and Black Rivers. It is also fed by some smaller tributaries and springs, and has its outlet at Magog, where it furnishes a magnificent water privi- lege. It finally empties itself into the St. Francis Riv- er, and its waters thus find their way to the St. Law- rence. We will now endeavor to describe it in detail, by pointing out as we steam along, whatever may be deemed wortliy of note or comment. We have not to go far in search of the picturesque ; it is one great and charming feature of Lake Mem- phremagog, that its shores, throughout its entire length, are indented with beautiful bays, between which, in many places, jut out bold headlands ; in fact, there is not a *' bit" of tame scenery to be met with ; and so one is spared the disagreeable necessity — inevitable in some less favored locality — of travelling ten dreary miles to see perhaps one mile of scenery worth looking at. Another object worthy of note, and it may as well be mentioned here — is the great pxirity of its wa- ters ; you never see weed or scum fringing its shores ; HI' 11!: )l! 14 MEMPHREMACOa. close to cither rocky or grassy margin, it is as pure as at its centre. At tlic first glance from the deck of the Mountain Maid, the lake appears as if it were completely land- locked by the mountains within the range of vision ; in fact, it seems almost circular, owing to a slight curv- ature, which from this point cuts off tlie prospect northward. The eastern shore is less mountainous than the western, generally ; here it gently slopes to the water, the upland being dotted with farms and pretty dwellings. Right ahead is seen a projecting point, ol' spur of land, called Indian Pointy where In- diana encamped as lately as sixty years ago — so at least we were informed by an old gentleman, a native of this region, who well remembered having seen their wig- wams, with squaws sitting in front, making or mending nets. Immediately after leaving Newport, a wooded point is passed, and Adams* Bay comes suddenly into view ; this is a semi-circular indentation of the lake, and highly picturesque. On the right, and a little to the north, the Avaters widen and form a sort of harbor, in which is a cluster of small islands, of which those called Black Island, and Tea-table Island, are the most noticeable. These islets, however, cannot be seen to advantage from the Steamboat, but a good view of them may be obtained from the high land near the road from Newport to Derby Centre, on the eastern, or from the stage road, on the western shore. Other islands are seen ahead, which we shall describe i MEMPHREMAGO(J. 15 pure as [ountain )\y laiid- ' vision ; !;lit curv- prospect iitainous lopes to ms and 'ojecting here In- 3 at least e of this leir wig- nending wooded nly into le lake, little to harbor, h those he most seen to of them ad from rom the describe as we reach them. Having passed Adams', we now come abreast of Potton Bay, (also on the western side) named after the township in which it is situated. Here the prospect is extremely grand. On our left, rises Bear Mountain, part of a continuous range which appears to terminate in distance, in the OivVs Head, which towerc above all its aspiring neighbors. Viewed from this direction, this now famous mountain has a peculiarly rounded summit, which seems riven into im- mense fissures ; this bald and craggy top is very strik- ing, rising abruptly, as it does, from among the trees that clothe the mountain from the water's edge, to with- in a few rods of its crest. But we must not, in our admiration of the landscape, omit to notice the " figures" which, artistically speak- ing, give life to our picture. We need not look far for these ; not further indeeed than the deck of the Moun- tain Maid, on which specimens of almost every de- scription of the genus tourist may be seen. Those two gentlemen dressed in suits of the true sportsman's pat- tern and cut, seated on trunks which have evidently endured much wear and tear, and yet are as servicea- ble and strong as ever — who are surrounded with fish- ing-rods, camping materials, guns and what not, are evidently a brace of English travellers, who are intent on " bar," deer, and fish, for the capture of which lat- ter, one of them rather ostentatiously exhibits a book of magnificent *' flies" spoon-hooks and lines, bought in London, and warranted to '' kill."- Near them is a I II IG MEMPHREMArjOn roii^h looking fellow, wliosc rifle and shabby fishing- rod arc strapped together ; lie looks eontemptuously at the blue a'^ ' .d haekle, and the London Hies general- ly, and feeis quite sure they wont " du." Nor will they — for that shrewd Canadian can, with a few feath- ers, some bits of silk and a hook, make, by the water- side, a '' fiy" which shall fall like a snow flake on the water, and be eagerly snapped at by some deluded member of the Fish family. That youth with a beard like those seen in Vandyke's pictures — and clad in blouse and belt, is doubtless an artist, on tlie lookout for " bits," " studies," " sky effects" and " distances." For a month or two he will wander along these shores, or on yonder mountains, and next winter we shall see in the Post, or Herald, such a notice as this. " We have just examined with mucli pleasure, a folio of magnificent views on Lake Memphremagog, drawn from nature, by our talented fellow citizen, Salvator Guido Claude Carmine Esq. They are far superior to the productions of Turner, Gainsborough, Horace Vernet, or any of the artists of the old world, and we hail them as a proof that American painters are supe- rior, even to the much vaunted old masters," &c., &c. The conceited looking young fellow who now and then pulls out a note-book and inserts a memorandum there- in, is a newspaper letter writer, who is prone to exag- gerate, and deals largely in superlatives. And the lady passengers ! There is among them a wdiole '' bevy" of beauties — about seventeen young ladies, who with MEMPHREMAGOG. 17 their Preceptress have come to see the lake ; a more charming party never danced on the deck of the Moun- tain Maid. Hut we have only time to describe one other })crsonage, and this time, do so " with a pur])Ose." Do you observe that individual with ratiier florid whiskers, Avho is strolling among the baggage and freight on the lower deck, assuming a look of uncon- cern, and yet quietly taking notice of everything? He is not one of the crew, for he does not handle a rope or lend a hand to anybody ; he is not a passenger, for he looks, without betraying any interest at the scenery, and is not in tourist costume. He seems of a misanthropical turn of mind, for he speaks to no one ; but his want of words is amply made up for by the use of his eyes. They seem to penetrate boxes, barrels, bales and baskets. Is he meditating a larceny ? Does he intend to clandestinely abstract their contents ? By no means — he is literally and strictly in the path of " duty." He is a Custom Plouse Officer. His presence tells a story. The Mountain Maid is now drawing near the boundary, or Province line of Webster and Ashburton renown, which separates the United States from Canada — after passing which, be you Monarchist or Republican, you will assuredly have to pay " duty" to Queen Victoria's Government, if you have anything on which it can be levied — and you fail to hide it from that lynx-eyed official, who, however, is polite in the performance of his duty, and gives no unnecessary trouble. 18 MEMPIIREMAGOG. n; Now just look to the land on your left, and you will observe a small farni-liouse ; that is the last dwelling in Vermont in this direction. A few rods from *t is the small iron post which marks the identical spot which the Province line traverses ; glance to the right and you .see that you are abreast of an island — through which also the line runs, and beyond this, far away, on the crest of the eastern hills, you may observe a gap through the woods, which indicates the course of the line in that direction. The iron post is quickly past, and we have exchanged the domains of Uncle Sam, for the dominions of Queen Victoria; we are in Canada ! Province Island is long, low, and covered for the rost part with trees. It contains about 40 acres of excellent arable land, which are cultivated successfully, by Mr. Bavineau, a Frenchman, who, with his family, being the sole residents of the Island, is " Monarch of all he surveys." It does not often happen, that a man by walking a dozen steps, and in the space of half a minute, can pass from the rule of a President to that of a Queen. Indeed, Farmer Bavineau can stand with one foot in the United States, and the other in the British dominions ; or at will, and at once, place him- self under the protection of the wing of the American Eagle, or the paw of the British Lion. Just beyond the " line" is Baker\s Landing- — from thence, still " hugging" the western shore, the Moun- tain Maid glides onward, while a constant succession 1 MEMrHUEMA(iOCI. 19 *t is of beauties on lake and land, charm and interest the beholder. The next landing is " Rollins'," which is situated at the foot of a remarkably steep declivity. Here the l)oat takes in wood, and not a little amuse- ment is afforded by the swarm of ragged little rascals who assist in this operation. The Mountain Maid, like all other Maidens, now be- comes somewhat capricious ; and turning her stern toward the eastern shore, crosses the lake diagonally, affording splendid opportunities of views, ** ever charm- ing, ever new." The Owl's Head Mountain now looms up grandly, clad in its garniture of living green — its craggy head, seemingly craggier than ever. The deep gorge on the summit is now seen to great advantage, and passengers begin to speculate how far it may be across. Various opinions are given — the truth is, it is about 40 rods from ridge to ridge. Farther north is Mount Elephantis, (or Sugar Loaf) and Ridge Moun- tain ; and rising abruptly from the eastern bank. Basin Mountain. But on glides the steamer, and Harveijs Landing, situated at the entrance of East Bay, is reached. This bay which runs inland in a north-east- erly direction for nearly seven miles, is a little lake in itself, and a favorite fishing ground. By means of a creek near its northern end, it communicates with another sheet of water called Fitch Bay. Near the entrance of East Bay is an island called Whetstone, or Fitcli^s Island — (the latter named after a man who once claimed to own it.) This island is re- 20 MEMPHREMAGOG. i II } markable for a quarry of Novactilite^ which may be seen like a yellow line, near the water's edge, on its western side. Of this Novaculite, capital whetstones can be made ; indeed, some years ago, the quarry was worked by a Company from Burke, who disposed of many tons of it annually. So excellent was it, that it almost drove the famous Turkey stone out of the mar- ket, and the Company were being amply remunerated, when from some cause or other, the British Govern- ment put a stop to the quarrying ; not however in or- der to monopolize the trade itself, for since the Burke Company were driven off, the Novaculite has remained undisturbed. This was, to say the least of it, a "Dog in the Manger" proceeding. A similar veto was put on mining on Owl's Head, of which more anon. Occasionally, when passengers wish to land, or em- bark there, the steamer crosses the mouth of East Bay to Magoon's Pointy a spur of land which derives its name from a farmer who resides on it. This place has of late, attracted some attention, from the fact of there being an unexplored cavern in its vicinity, in which cave, it is asserted, a considerable amount of treasure is concealed. It is said that many years ago a Roman Catholic Chapel in Canada, (we believe at a place called St.. Francis,) was plundered of its treasures, and that the robbers concealed their booty here. AVe are credibly informed that persons are now living, who saw two massive gold candlesticks which were found in or near the cave, buried in sand. Several unsuc- MEMPHREMAGOG. 21 cessful attempts have been made to explore this mys- terious place — but it is gravely declared that every daring individual who descended and penetrated but a little Avay, came back in a state of the utmost alarm, having " heard fearful noises and felt like being chok- ed," a phenomena which would be easy of explanation by any schoolboy who had but slightly studied acous- tics and chemistry — since echoes and carbonic acid gas would produce precisely similar effects. We hear that explorations on a large scale arc to be made this sum- mer, (1859,) and only hope that the laborers in this Magog " diggin" will be more fortunate than the san- guine gentlemen who sought to lay their " appropria- tion claws" on the treasures of the late gallant Cap- tain Kidd. On leaving Harvey's Landing, the Mountain Maid returns to her " old love," the western shore, and zig- zagging it in a slant direction, northwards, directs her course towards, as it would seem, the base of Owl's Head. The mountain now looks grander than ever ; dwarfing, as it does, all its surrounding brethren. We can now see the grey walls or ledges of rock which stripe it transversely ; seemingly impossible to scale, and ravines and gorges of vast magnitude. About a mile and a half off, on our left, is Round Island, to be spoken of presently. As yet, there are no signs of any " House of Entertainment" — but before long a wharf with two flag staffs, a pretty summer house, like a Kiosk — the roof of a dwcUino: — and then its 22 MEMPHREMAGOG. front, appears. In a few moments more, we have left Harvey's Landing four miles behind us, and stand on the very convenient wharf of the Mountain House, where we are welcomed by the Proprietor, Mr. A. C. Jennings, who, as former Landlord of the St. Johns- bury House, Island Fond Hotel, and other first rate Establishments, we had long and favorably known. Here let us remain for a few days, for this is the Para- disaic portion of the lake — if where all is " beautiful exceedingly," such a term can be fitly applied. On glides the Mountain Maid, which we have ungallant- ly abandoned ; but she has plenty to flirt with her in our absence, and is of so forgiving a nature, that the paltry sum of a dollar, or less, will induce her by and by, to receive us on our former (deck) footing. MEMPHREMAGOG. 23 CHAPTER III. The Mountain House — Island Scenery — The Palisades Bathing Place — Balance Rock — Skinnet'^s Cave and its Legend, 1 ; i ,3 The Owl's Head Mountain House is delightfully sit- uated on the wertern shore of the lake. It stands in a natural Amphitheatre, on a picturesque little plateau at the base of Owl's Head, very near the margin of the waters. A neat and very convenient plank path- way extends from the front of the house to the lake, and on a wharf at its further end, passengers land as easily as possible. On a rocky knoll is a picturesque summer house ; and back of this a miniature moun- tain, from whose top dxquisite views are commanded. On the south side of the house are flower gardens — rural walks, and rocky pathway^ ; and on the north, a lovely little inlet with a shingly beach called Sherman^ s Bay, in compliment to the lady Preceptress, who with her charming pupils, visited the house last summer. Between this bay and the house is a bridle path which leads to the summit of Owl's Head. Towering grand- ly above all, is the Mountain itself, a brief account of which we will give presently. i M f ' 1 n I 1 !!' 24 MEMPIIREMAGOG. Taking our post cf observation in the little summer pavilion before referred to, a glorious prospect bursts upon the eye. Immediately in front rises the Basin Mountain to a height of some 12 or 1500 feet, and en- tirely covered with foliage. Stretching grandly away, north and south, the lake is bounded by lofty moun- tains, verdant slopes, and bold headlands. From this point, also five islands are visible. Directly in front, and distant about two miles, is Skinner's Island ; a very little to the north of it is Long Island ; between Skinner's and the main land, is Minnow Island ; a mile and a half distant on our right is Round Island, and southwards. Province Island, already described. All these are Avithin a morning boat-ride of the house, and each possesses attractions peculiar to itself. Sup- pose Ave make our first boat trip to Long Island. As its name implies, its length is considerably great- er than its breadth — the former beino; about one and a half miles, the latter not half a mile. This Island is covered thickly Avith trees, and is chiefly remarkable for its bold, rocky shores. Near its northern end, on its Avestcrn side, are some perpendicular rocks named the Palisades, from their resemblance, on a small scale, to those of the same name on the River Hudson. These are avcII Avorthy a visit. Not far from these is a beautiful, safe, and sheltered natural bathing place. The shores on the eastern side are very romantic, and to a geologist, highly interesting. As for an artist, he MEMPIIREMAGOG. 25 might go into fits (of enthusiasm) on beholding the " rock studies" which abound here. But the " lion" of Long Island, is the Balance Rock. Balance Hock. On the ridge of a granite rock, which slopes towards the water, stands another huge mass of granite, weigh- ing many tons, and resting only a single point or pivot, in the same manner as does the celebrated Logan rocking stone in Cornwall, England. This one, how- ever, does not move. How it got into its present po- sition is purely a matter of conjecture. Some suppose it to have been brought on ice, which, thawing, depos- ited it there. Others imagine the waters of the lake were once higher than now, and that when receding, winds and storms washed away the earth which might have surrounded its base. We profess to hold no I !! 26 MEMPHREMAGOG. R5 \h opinion on the subject, and leave the geologist to look to it. A curious tree grows close to, and leans over the stone, giving it much the appearance, at a distance, or in the gray of the evening, of a sarcophagus, and a familiar emblem. To be sure, one has to imagine the drooping branches of the willow ; but as we all know, fancy is a very fertile artist, and can accomplish won- ders. Leaving the Balance Rock behind us, we now row to the northern end of Skinner's Island, which is not of so great extent as Long Island, but equally pic- turesque. It, too, has its " lion" in the shape of a Cave on its western side, close to its northern extrem- ity. This is a very favorite resort for visitors, and is easily reached, it being little more than a mile from the Mountain House, from wiiich it can be plainly seen. Nearly all such places as these have their le- gends, and Skinner's Cave is no exception to the al- most general rule. But before we relate it, let us say that the Cave is close to the water on the island side, is about 10 feet wide at the entrance, from 12 to 14 feet high, and extends into the rock a distance of some 80 feet, narrowing from the outside until the two walls of the cave meet at the end. Here then is the legend of Skinner's Cave, which a friend of ours has " done" into rhyme. It is neces- sary to preface it with a little plain prose, to render the verse intelligible. In the year 1812, during the last American war with England, smuggling was car- MEMPHBEMAGOG. 27 ried on to a great extent on Lake Mempliremagog. A determined attempt was made by both the belligerent parties to put the illegal traffic down, and one after another, all the smugglers were captured but a certain daring dealer in contraband articles, named Uriah Skinner. This worthy baffled the ingenuity of the Custom Officers for a long time, but was at last — stay — ^you shall hear, dear reader, all about it presently. After a rather florid description of the lake, our rhym- ing friend proceeds as follows, in his ruse, which he calls The Bold Smuggler of Magog. * In a certain part of this exquisite sheet Of water, the " States" and " East Canada" meet, Here, though you can't see it, the " boundary line" Of Webster and Ashburton passes ; in fine, One-third of the lake's in Vermont, at the least, The other two-thirds are in Canada East; The reader must fail not to understand this. Or the point of the story he'll certainly miss. K ■ 1 * rvas car- Let the reader imagine an Eden-like scene ; Mountains robed to their- summits in drapery of green, 28 MEMPHREMAGOG. With three miles of cahn and hhie water between, And then ho will jiossibly know what I mean : And the name of this lake, on whose shores neither bog Nor flat shores are seen, is this, MEMPHREMAGOG! A queer word to pronounce just at first, but it slips In a very short time smoothly over the lips ; The rhyme forced me to mention the " bo'■' i Foi .iie Geological Characteristics of the lake shores, we refer the reader to the respective reports of Profes- sor Hitchcock, and Sir William Logan. Details of such would be quite out of place in a brochure, such as this. 52 MEMPHREMAGOG. CLIMATE. No climate can be more salubrious than that on and about Lake Memphremagog. Tempests are but seldom experienced, and the air is pure and bracing. The vi- cinity of the lake always . nsures a sufficiency of mois- ture in the atmosphere. The Summers are cool, and the Winters far milder than in Boston or New York. I m9m I Principal Hotels in thj^ chief Cities, Towns and Villages on the route to or from Memphremagog. pik* m, hit: life:' m New York. — St. Nicholas, Metropolitan, Astor, Ev- erett House, Claredon, &c^, &c. Boston. — ^Revere, Tremont, American House, Park- er's, Marlboro'. Springfield. — Massasoit House, American House. Lowell. — Merrimack House, American House. Concord. — Phoenix, Eagle, Gass's American House. White River Junction. — Junction House. Newbury. — Newbury House, Spring Hotel. ^ MEMPHREMAGOG. 63 St. Johnsbury. — St. Johnsbury House. Barton. — Barton Hotel. ' ' Newport. — Memphremagog House. Quebec. — Russell's Hotel. Montreal. — St. Lawrence Hall, Ottawa House, Mon- treal House. Sherbrooke. — Sherbrooke House, Cheney's Hotel. Portland. — American House, Walnut Street House. 4 ^mtm > ROUTE TABLE. From Boston, via. Boston and Maine, Concord, Manchester, and Lawrence, Boston, Concord and Mon- treal Railroad, and Connecticut and Passumpsic Rivers Railroad to Barton. Station, Haymarket Square, Boston. From Boston, via. Boston and Lowell, Nashua and Lowell, Concord, Northern and Connecticut and Passumpsic Rivers Railroad, up the valleys of the Connecticut and Passumpsic Rivers, to Barton. Sta- tion, Causeway Street, Boston. 64 MEMPHBEMAGOG. Trains leave Boston by both routes at 7.30 A. M., 12 M., and 5 o'clock, P. M. Passengers taking 7.30 A. M. train, reach the lake the same evening ; those ,taking 12 M. train, lodge at White River Junction; those taking 5 P. M., train, lodge at Ooncord, and reach the lake the next evening. Distance from Boston to Lake Memphremagog. Eailroad, - - - - 232 Stage, 14 246Mik5. Fare $7.50. From New York, by railroad, via. New Haven, Hartford, Springfield and Biellows Falls. Station, 27th Street. Trains leave at 8 o'clock, A. M., and 4 o'clock, P. M. Passengers from New York, at 8 o'clock, A. M., can stop over night at Hartford, Springfield, or North- ampton, or any other point above Hartford, and reach the lake the nX3xt evening, at a seasonable hour. Passengers leaving New York at 4 o'clock, P. M., can stop at the same places over night, and reach the lake as soon as by leaving at 8 o'clock, A. M. Dine at White River Junction ; tea at Barton. 'iliv MEMPHEEMAGOG. 65 Distance from New York to Lake Memphremagog. Eailroad, - - - - 352 Stage, 14 366 Miles. Fare, $10.25. WHITE AND FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS TO LAKE MEMPHREMAGOG Leave the White Mountains at 6 o'clock, A« M. *' " Franconia " " 7 o'clock, A. M. By Stage, to Littleton, .thence by White Mountains Railroad to Wells River, dine at the Coossuck House, or Newbury, at which latter village are the " Sulphur Springs," and two good Hotels ; arriving at 10.30 A. M., tourists can dine, take the up train of the Con- necticut and Passumpsic Rivers Railroad, at 3. 45 P. M., sup at Barton, thence by stage to the lake the same evening. Tickets and reliable information can be had of the Agent of the Connecticut and Passumpsic Rivers Railroad at the White Mountains, and the Fran- conia Mountains. 11' 56 MEMPHREMAGOG. Fare from White Mountains, $6.63. Distance 115 miles. Fare, from Franconia Mountains, $4.80. Distance 102 miles. Tickets can also be bought at a reduced rate^ by Excur- tionists, for the round trip, from, either of the Moun- tains, to Quebec^ or Montreal^ and back, to Wells Eivcr, or AVliite River Junction. FROM LAKE MEMPHREMAGOG TO QUEBEC AND MONTKEAL n iiif Leave Newport at 7 o'clock, A. M., by Steamer Mountain Maid, Capt. Fogg, to the Outlet, (30 miles,) thence by stage, to Sherbrooke, (15 miles,) dine, take cars of the Grand Trunk Railway, and reach either of above cities same evening. Returning, leave Quebec at 5.45 A. M., Montreal at 7 o'clock, A. M., by Grand Trunk Railway ; dine at Sherbrooke, thence by stage to the Outlet, take Steam- er, touching at the " Mountain House, ^^ lodge at New- port, and thence next morning, by stage to Barton ; Connecticut and Passumpsic Rivers Railroad to the Mountains, Boston or New York, same evening, five hours quicker than by any other route.