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A 3 12X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 8 6 tn i r i. i •s^ 25lh CoNGRKsa, 2d Session. [ SENATE. 1 [470] IN SENATE OP" THE UNITED STATES. June 6, 1833. Submitted, and ordered to be printed. CZ'^^^^l Mr. laNN submitted ihe following REPORT : [To accompany Senate Bill No. 206.] The Si'lcci Cnmmiltco, to which was referred a bill to authorize the Pres- ident of he United States to occupy the Oregon Tfrritory^ submit to the consideration of the Senate the following report: The attention of the Government has been, on several occasions, called to this important subject by bills and resolutions, througlj able and eiabo* rate reports from committees of Concjress, and in various Executive commu- nications. We will not ascend higher in the liCgislalive history of this Ter- ritory than the last annual message of President Monroe, in which he says: "In looking to the interests which the United States have on the Pacific ocean, and on the western coast of this continent, the propriety of establishing a military post at the mouth of the Coliunbia river, or at some other point in that quarter, within our acknowledged limi's, is submitted to the considera- tion of Congress. Our commerce and fisheries on that sea and along that coast have much increased, and are increasing. It is thought that a mili- tary post, to which our sliips of war might resort, would afford protection to every interest, and have a tendency to conciliate the tribes of the north- west, with whom our trade is extensive. It is thought, also, that, by the es- tablishment of such a post, the intercourse between our western Slates and Territories and the Pacific, and our trade with the tribes residing in the intcriorj on each side of the Rocky mountains, would be essentially pro- moted. To carry this object into effect, the appropriation of an adequate sum to authorize the employment of a frigate, with an officer of the corps of engineers, tn explore the mouth of the Columbia river, and the coast contiguous thereto, to enable the Executive to make such establishment^ nt the most suitable point, is recommended to Congress." Such were the views of an enlightened statesman and patriot. The ad- ministration which succeeded took up this matter, and it became the sub- ject of a negotiation between the Government of Great IMtain and the United States, in which nothing was done definitively to settle the claims of the parties. This correspondence was marked by great ability. The lapse of time, and the progress of events in thiit quarter of the con- tinent which are unfriendly (o the interests of the United States, require, io BUirdTliives, primers. •♦o « ,i.i [4-0] 2 the opinion of your comiiiiltoc. action on the part of this Govornmonf, ns prompt and dwidcd as nuy i)o consislcMit with llio peace and jjood nnder- standing which now exists, and we sincerely hope will ever continue to ex- ist, between England and the United States, who Iiave so many reasons to wish its continuance. President Jackson, aware of the importance of this country to our best interests, employed a special agent to proceed to the territory in ques- tion, who was charged with the duty of examining into its political, pliysi- cal, and geographical condition. But the committee will quote the words of the rnstructions. The Secretary of State writes to Mr. Slacum as fol- lows, in his note of November 11, 1835 : "Sir: Ilavinar understood that you arc about to visit tlie Pacific ocean, the President has determined to avail himself of the opportunity thus af- forded to obtain some specific and authentic information in regard to the inhabitants of the country in the neighborhood of the Oregon or Colum- bia river. In the belief that you will willingly lend your services in the prosecntion of this object, I now give you, by the President's direction, such general instructions as may be necessary for your guidance in the exe- cution of the proposed commission. " Upon your arrival at the northwest coast of America, you will embrace the earliest opportunity to proceed to and up the river Oregon, by such con- veyances as may be thought to offer tiie greatest facilities for attaining the ends in view. You will, fioin lime to time, as they occur in your progress, stop at the different settlements of whites on the coast of the United States, and on the banks of the river, and also at the various Indian villages on the banks, or in the immediate neighborhood of that river ; ascertain, as nearly as possible, the population of each ; the relative number of whites (distin- guishing the nation to which they belong) and aborigines; the jurisdiction the whites acknowledge ; the sentiments entertained by all in respect to the United States, and to the two European powers having pos.sessions in that region ; and, generally, endeavor to obtain all such information, political, physical, statistical, and geoffraj)hical, as may prove useful or interesting to this Government. For this purpose, it is recommended that you should, whilst employed on this service, keep a journal, in which to note down whatever may strike you as worthy of observation, and by the aid ot which you will be enabled, when the journo^y is completed, to make a fnll and accurate report to this depaitmtnt of all the information you may have collected in regard to the conntry and its inhabitants. " Your necessary and reasonable travelling expenses will be paid, from the beginningof your journey from the coast of the Pacific to the Colum- bia river, and till your return to this city. Vouchers, in all cases where it mpy be practicable to got them, will be required in the settlement of your account ai the Treasury Department. " I am, sir, your obedient servant, "JOHN FORSYTH." On the tst of June, 183G, Mr. Slacum proceeded to comply with these I ,, instructions; and the results of his examinations are mostly contained in a "* ^ . memorial addressed to Congress on the 18lh of Deceuibcr last. From this memorial we will make copious extracts, it being replete with recent and authentic information. [470] iciif, ns iiiulcr- :ie to ex- asons to our best ill ques- I, pfiysi- le words HI as fol- ic ocean, thus uf- rd to the Col u in- :;s ill the iirection, I the exc- embrace sUch con- ning the progress, ed Stales, res on the as nearly 'S (dislin- risdiclion pectto the lis in that politicif.l, Testing to ^ Li should, ote down the aid of lake a full may liave )aid, from le Colum- ses where i iUt of your | I JYTH." mih these ? allied ill a I From this recent and : DeO)ro proceeding further, thc! committee? will devote a few rnonicits !o the ([uestioii of right to the Oreiron Territory. Thi« question lias i^oen so ably argued by the late Governor Floyd, who was the (irst to urije on Congress the use and occupation of the Oregon Territory, by Mr. F. liayliess, in two reports to the House of Representa- tives, and in the diplomatic correspondence of our Government with Great Britain, and in various other public documents, as to make it unnecessary for us to go at large into this subject. The validity of the title of the United States to the territory on the north- west coast, between the latitude of 42° to 49°, is not questioned by any power except Great Britain. The 3d article of the treaty of Washington, of22d of February, 1810, between the United States and Spain, established their mutual boundary line on the parallel of 42°; and, from the Rocky mountains to the Pacific ocean, Spain made a formal and full relinquish- ment of all claim north of that line. The southernmost point to which Russia claims on that coast was fixed by her treaty with Great Britain of February, 1825, at 54° 40'. By the provisions of these two treaties the space between the Spanish boundary north, at 42°, and the Russian boun- dary south, at 51° 40', is enilrc.ly unclaimed, except by the United States and Great Britain. The respective claims of these two powers have been, from time to time, the subject of negotiation and provisional arrangement by treaty ; having in view the /em/>orrt/7/ protection of the interests of the parties, while the final adjustment of their rights is left open to future ar- rangements. These temporary arrangements, by the convention of 1825, are r//?//«a//;y obligatory, until eiiher of the parties who may desire a change shall have given to the other one year's notice. The treaty of Ghent contains no specific allusion to the possessions of the United States on the northwest coast ; but under the claim of the treaty, article 1st, which provides that all territory, places, and possessions, what- ever, taken by cither party from the other during the war, (k.c., shall be re- stored without delijy, the United States' settlement at the mouth of the Columbia river, called Astoria, was included, and subsequently formally restored to an authorized agent of the United States ; by which act the Oregon Territory for the first time became the subject of negotiation be- tween the two Governments. By the convention with Great Britain of 1818, it was stipulated that, oast oftlie Stony mountains and west of the lakes, the northern boundary of the United States and the southern boundary of Great Britain should be the 49th parallel of latitude ; but in regard to the territory west of the Stony- mountains, and on the northwest coasr, it was stipulated that any country which may be claimed by either party shall, with its harbors, bays, rivers, h\rke following,' np the discovery of the Colnmbiu river, by Captain Gray, is in itself an important circnmstance in onr tide. It was notice to the world of claim, and that tolernii act of possession was followed np by a settlement and occnpation,made by that enterprisinj; and intelligent merchant, John Jacob Astor, nnder the countenance and patronage of this Government. This settlement and occupation continued to the late war with Great Britain, and by the treaty of Ghent was restored to us formally, after its conquest from the United States during that war. Thus it will be seen that our title has the requisites prescribed by Great Britain herself. With this is combined the concurrent title of Spain, which was derived also from discovery, settlement, tfcc, and which, by the treaty of 1819, was transferred to the United States. The extent of the territory on the northwest coast, which is properly embraced within a)ur limits, is to be ascertained by the application of the two recognised principles to the established fiicts of the case. 1st. That the discovery and occupation of the month of a river gives title to the region watered by it and its tributaries, as in the case of the Hudson, James, Mississippi rivers. &c. 2d. That the discovery and settlement of a new country by a civilized power, gives title half-way to the settlement of the nearest civi- lized power. The boundary between them is a medium line. Either of these principles will carry our line as far as 40". Its occupation by our Government would secure a vast Indian and fur trade; its forests of gigantic timber ; extended plains; rich alluvions, where animals an ' stables assume their brightest forms; would open a direct trade with ^rnia, China, Japan, and the Sandwich and Oriental islands generally ; it would secure its prodigious fisheries of sturgeon, anchovies, and salmon ;lor Lewis and Clarke say " that the multitudes of salmon in the Oregon are inconceivable, and they ascend to its very sources, to the very ridge of the dividing mountains ; the water is so clear tliat they, may be seen at the depths of fifteen or twenty feet ; at certain seasons of the year they float in such quantities down the stream and are drifted ashore, that the Indians have only to collect, split them open, and dry then)." It would doubtless secure, beyond the danger of interruption, constant nitercourse. and trade between the valley of the Mississippi and the Oregon. But, to wave these advantages, the importance to the United Stnte.gniscd CO very I'attred sissippi y by a St civi- thcr of md fnr , wfiere direct islands hovies, 1 in the le very may bo le year hat the would course. Sfnt(\<', !h\vest Wiircls n the sca- o refit uiids; ed in ch ol ) give such 3 fi tie pabli; Jliiifi- uitrd - 7 [ 470 ] jotwrcn tliis point and the inontli of the rolnmhia rirrr. the roast pre- sents i'U ahnost unifoiin straig)it line, in which fi'W liendhmds or indnita- lipis appear. ]\lr. Siacuni says : " Frorn the map of the coinitry, which I ispill bo al)le to j)ropnr(', yon will discover thereon three or four rivers which [fall into the Pacific Ocean between latitude dl^ 33' and the Cohnnbia; 'thve of them within Pelican bay, in latitude 42^ 4' nortfi, are within tlic Huils of the States, but are not laid down on any published chart of the diy : '' Klamet river, 41" 33' north latitude, 123° 51' west longitude. "West Rogues river, 42^ 26' north latitude, 124° 14' west longitude. " West Cowis river, 43° 31' north latitude, 124° 4' west longitude. " West Umpcpia, 43° 50' north latitude, 123° 50' west longitude. '= liast year the .schooner Cadboiough enierod two of these with 8 feet of Witer. ' Pelican bay' is a good harbor. From the inlbrniation of Mr. loung and other trappers. I am told thut the Umpqua is nearly the same sze as the Wilhamit. The lauds are equally good and well timbered. The Tver called 'Rogues,' or, sometimes, Smith's river, abounds in the finest tmber west of the Rocky mount.iins ; and it may be fairly estimated that tie valleys of these rivers, certainly within the jurisdiction of i!ie Ignited ftati^s, contain at least l'l,(!()0,t)l:0 acres of land, of first quality, equal to tie best lands of Missouri and Illinois. In cniering the Columbia river 30U find a bar extending across tlie channel (two miles in width) from the lorlh to the south shoals. The shoalest water on the bar is 4X fathoms, hit the prevailing winds in winter are from the westward, aiTd the en- trance lies exposed to the swell of the Pacific ocean. The bar breaks with I wind of any force, if from the west of north or south and west of east. \t present, vessels are often kept several days waiting for clear weather to 'un in, having neither beacons, buoys, or lights to guide them when near he shoal. This delay woidd be obviated in a great measure if the coast vas surveyed and properly lighted." Mr. Baylies, in his report, says: " It has been very justly said, 'that it is a question, at first somewhat difHcnlt of solution, why Great Britain should have been so extretnely anxious to wrest from the United Stiites a territory comparatively of limited extent, and, considering tjje vastdomnins in Asia, Africa, Australia, and Amcricn, wiiich she has yet to populate and reclaim, comparatively of little value;' yet a little reflection will suggest the answer. " Groat Britain -adopts no plans of policy from caprice or vanity ; her am!)itio!i is developed in a system of wise andsag.tcious projects, to check, to influence, and to control all nations by means of her navy and her com- merce. In prosperity and in adversity, in peace and in war. she has pur- sued this grand desisfn, with an enera:y and perseverance which does infi- nite credit to her politicalfagacity and foresight." The day is not far distant when, by the openingof a direct communica- tion between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans across the Is'dimns of Dari- cn, the whole trade of t!ic eastern hemisphere will be changed. Tho pol- icy of Great Hritain is, therefore, to possess the strongest points of control on this grand thoroughfare of co;nmorce, as well as over every other com- mercial thoroughfare of the world. One of these points she already pos- sesses in Jamaica, and the Sandwich islands is tol)e, nay, is, tjie other point of her grasping ambition. These islands lie on that par:d!el of latitude which vessels si-ek in the pasMige to China, Manilla, and B.itavia, from the west coast of America, in order to get the force of the trade-winds, whicli [470] 8 are strongest between 18° and 24° of north latitude. They lie as directly in the route to China as the Cape of Good Hope for ships from lh« east- ward. They would, therefore, become of immense value as a commercial depot, and in time of war they would, in a military point of view, be as important as the Mauritius in the Indian ocean. It maybe assumed, then, that these islands will fall in»o the hnnds of the British Government; for when has she neglected her foreign policy '/ Ldok at her possessions in ilie East — Mulia, Gibraltar, the key to (he commerce of the Mediterranean, St. Helena, Ascension, Cape of Good Hope, the Mauritius, Singapore, (which effectually commands the straits of Malacca,) the Benin tslands. lying off the coast of Japan ; and she only lacks the Sandwich islands and the brau- tiful river Columbia, and the territory watered by its numerous trihntaries, to command, by her mighty means, the commerce of the whole world. Independent of the importance, in a commercial point of view, of this territory to the United States, it assumes va^t importance when we con;3 to consider the influence it is to have, in the hands of the British, over the fierce and warlike tribes of Indians on the nor'h, and from our western frontier to tlie Pacific ocean. On this point, we hope to be pardoned for the long extract from Mr. Slacum's memoir. "When speaking of the Hud- son Bay (Jomp.uiy — " I shall endeavor," lie says, ''to point out the enterprise of this company, and the inflneiicc they excrci.se over the Indian tribes within our acknow- ledged lines of territory, and their unauthorized introduction of large quantities of Briti.sh goods within the territorial limits of the United States, Fort Vancouver, the principal depot of the Hudson Bay Company west of the Rocky mountain?, stands on a gentle acclivity, four hundred yards from the shore, on the north bank of the Columbia, or Oregon river, about 100 miles from its mouth. The principal buildings are enclosed by a picket forming an area of 750 by 4.50 li^et. Within the pickets there are thirty- four buildings of all descriptions, including oflicers' dwelling houses, work- shops for carpenters, blacksmiths, wheelwrights, coopers, tinners, &c., all of wood, except the magazine for powder, wliich is of brick. Outside, and very near the fort, there are forty-nine cabins for laborers and mechanics, a large and commodious barn, and seven buildings attached thereto; a hos- pital and large bnat-house on the shore, six miles above the fort. On the north bank the Hudson Bay Company have erected a sawmill on a never- failing stream of water that falls into the Columbia; cuts 2,000 to 2,400 feet of lumber daily; employs twenty-eight men, chiefly Sandwich Islanders. and ten yoke of oxen ; depih of water four fathoms at the mill, where the largest ships of the company take in their cargoes for the Sandwich Lslands' market. " The farm at Vancouver contains, at this time, about 3,000 acres of land, fenced and under cultivation, employing, generally, one hundred men, chiefly Canadians and half-breed Iroquois". The mechanics are l<:uropean. These, with the factors, traders, clerks, and domestics, may be estimated at thirty. The laborers and mechanics live outside the fort in good log cabins; two or three fjiinilies generally under one roof; and as nearly every man has a wife, or lives with an Indian or half breed woman, and as each family has from two to five slaves, the whole number of persons about Vancouver may be estimated at 750 to 800 souls. The police of tho estab- lishment is as strict as in the best regulated military garrisai The men are engaged for the term of five years, at the rate of ,i:i7 lo .C'5 per 'v f lie as dircclly ; Irom llio east- I a commercial of view, be as assumed, then, vern merit; for rsessionsiti the iterranean, St. rapore, (which ands, lying otl' ? and tlie bi'au- 011 s tributaries, loie world, f view, of this •hen wo con; 3 le British, over m our western pardoned for g of the liud- f this company, n our acknow- clion of large : United States. Company west hundred yards on river, about ised by a picket here are thirly- ; houses, worlc- ncrs, &c., all of Outside, and nd mechanics, thereto; a hos- 3 fort. On the nill on a never- 1 2,000 to 2,400 wich Islanders, mill, where the idwich Islands' )U acres of land, hundred men, i are I'juropeaii. be estimated at ood log cabins; i\rly every man n, and ns each persons about ce of I''** eslab- arris u The JJIT io.;C;?5per 3rS; Izens of the ITnlted Slates witliin our acknowledged lines'of 7erri"t"ory ^t year they met a powerful opponent, in the agent of this foreiga T ^ Bncareti O/^ \ Forrestfis /W" "\ ^^ «'"''''■ "^pso^^^^ 125' 120' BabioAl't . ^ N La n (Id ra J^?^'^^ a 31. c e ! /'.?, /^c- d^nL v^ soil I/; '^§l'i>rf J-ssiiifitoit Uawkfsbiiiy I. XlMl L Stuarts I '^luzecnoi. c A X E D o :n^ I A '•^ti/.t/u'/itiiis '^ms^/*^ .V//. "^a M Ft. George :,o" ir/ frgil til Moos I'm tiin-rr S'j ,'ii. \ 'OW„,, .Chikottuft.fcL. 'j(a.u(iis ra. B UfFI Calxa'lsi. ■Smith's liili't ^7" -^antjuil •■^' .>i '"'''/. M'a Qua Ara i^ VjUli^kf^'S I. ^^ \uotka J O •^^ r.'/vwi'M ■^^ . Di'siniclion I or ?>■ J't'ssi'Mioii Sit. # "'«"'i^ s aiLAip of the '.'"■SX L i'/. Jl/?lrtilllt|^^«^■ hiuksdlUl >m 'Mill - , ^v O"^ 0'" ' / , ^^^ 120" 115" no lo:. I Lessex Slave fort 1, A K E Ala (Yoss F^ ^ K.lat la iPi'iJ' ^> fseavf ' . 4> ■] /^ Ft. ASSUlfiDOllM / si .nif" ..vjio.< ■ 1>« ll^ ^r .„v^^- Gforge y-"*^. \1!/A- Cm ■m0^ .,^ Q"'^.,."; Moose L ibenv M ''111, f J> lEon ~ -^aiuiuil Sod """'^j ,((,>^' ,# Mend '^riirriel. Poi "UM nt kOretMi L.&Ft. ^Pftican L. ^^t^ Stinking L. \ ^'^^asptns ot Rocky Mf So. i Ui'iin's Uo. ManitoL. Beaver U 4V Minehester ii'He I.. X s iockv in»*> BiiWi i{ «rt< Jim ► Ft. Pitt 'W CniltoiJ H ^.Branili Boat Encamp { Snow Ml) <^oinmQieey i 3oulj ^^iii^^\Jti Uooker [rprpau 1 1:>. 700 , ■^nffaloe L. T J/i'f/n' S ^. mL m torn, nil-. McQtasl. \ llj.an Ja rn ^' ,= n. otaui liollv fiuckland [)n'//.» ivse S K AT C ^I A W A N /Vy. 1 ^l-aK/JOWw/,^ l/V/**'!*' fav j-r fi- ^-t;*. Jsiioush waal^. i5»ii/',,' r/jtiMi l^ >• :X ,i?^ <9 ifrppci' Jmnr L. Flat Bow L. ?%; . -.i. ••- ^ ■"/„>■'■' ^ sv* y^s ' jToimccoPl'>\ >m/r:. ^«p* w^// Vi. O O ^■'^ i?. #■ .^^ .#'% f # I hijups on's RiipiiLi. Mil ^0 'tf^\A$ I'olconit '>y (Itvnt '■■■■ f ^Rsi il T O 'riests leap ( n^ -ff ^\Kiit/cs/>elnif, ■4-. ' N ■i)'"^ :%v ^i^U p^/, % '■■'■!ik. -?t^^ • i»>T:" Mediiine h. Ct. <' K-^. ,v^^':^'"^' WXJ{. '.*o. # V ''^'3'^^5^'^^^' % ~^J:'licnu V vv^^^i^^^ ^"^iJrL'm-n,,,. ' ViH' or 1% Mu/ ^'■'^''i/rtix N"*' .-5.. "^. — ^ 1^ 4W « .1 10" MAIP of tlie WIVITJMJD ^TAIHES TERRITORY OF OREGON West of tlie Rocky ^lountaius , Exhibiling the vaiioiis Trading Depots or Forts occupied by tlie British Hudson Bay Company, con - -nected with tlie Western and northwestern }\ir Ihide. ('. Di^iiiiiu'iu tnii'iLm COluiiamlJI ., riMimm '-.a C.LooktHL m 0^ ^f. Foul 'onio H. Coiiipiicii in the Bureau of Topogmpliival lUujineers.from tlie latci^t autlwriaes, under the diredion of Col. J.J.Abert. by Wash: Hood. 1838. JLII.Stunsluur del. 7? J ( . PerfL-OflM Sri /.s7A''.fseeJ)oc.l9i>.20*f*Cotuj.J.sessJio:orJi.)Yoit are then authoriseif to propo.se the auiiultiientofthe thud artide of the Conirntion tU'JHJS, niui the extension of the line on the parallel of lihthim theea.itern .side of the StonyMonntain.t, ul.ere it note" '■rnunates. to ttie /'aeiticthean as (he pennanent houndtiry" 'httveen the territories of the two powers in that ijiuuier.'jhis is ' ouruhiniatnm and so you may announce it ' 0^^\ Th-I'osts oftheJIritishHiulson'sMay Company are nuiiked f/ais 125" tpiu'iittiiii'Um Liiiid)iit, K^ , i'l.AtHmi -^a j? i^' - S'''''' 'r'' illinunLi ^ r^SL-Siy^l ,j)^V., cv«i.S'« >, '""■"^^ s..'""- k-'-v ^'fMau/ ^ ^'^Z i ^'tiaico Qjf ^V. >>■> <'/-j: ■Oz. "ch no 10 :'i) '■'• — ,i-..-r--TT-ii n'.rr rl SOAI.KS . i..„,,..,, . .,,„.„..^..,-„„.... - — " ■^-■1—1. — f. — T — I, CiUiViipliii Mill's 10 ,10 10 - ^ T! 1"- TTiLa— 00 ,. ,, , nasi SliUllIC Miles 10 r> •* [l arptJ in th warn depc imp< that whe East Hole effec thee tiful toco In territ to C( Ihefi front the Ic son \: "I and i ledge, quanl Fort of tU( from ■ 100 1) formi four t shops wood, very i a larg; pilal £ nortli failing feet ol and tq lartjesl ma rise fen cod chieily Those thirty. two or has a family Vaiicoi Ushi»idw. men arc I «•>«« Wt.klVI' UM AH iriii^ ijoob ifj ( ; fl>,;^^^ ^ ';;; ^.u ,, fncturo,) they transport^ their g:oocls "^^"^' J;,'^'';,Xd lines of territory, citizens of the United Slates withui our ''f ^^;"7.^^^^';^^^^^^^^^ ^ is foreiga 1 ast year they met a powerful oi.poncnt, m the agent oi :?■ m CiEi:A;i:ni' or THE COLUMBIA RIVER I'or 9 Jiiiles froiiiits iVLoiitli. nimin I'lvm si'vcrul smveys in the possession of W. A . S L AC r M r. s.x. by M.i'.Kwiiui ('hi/ Kmiinccr. (on'illc Hi ye I ln^ltl Miiiiiii ('i>nin ^*itwj m. 1 -i ' ' X,.. '^'^yy^iitf,, ,/f,y. dilH' nisapimnimail X.XKOv roiujxiss ilisminc lomili's .1 ■'> w .)./'■. .>.. • ]{). :.S: ,. I' . :, .\ VER out li . SSI Oil of i/it: Hi ye I Vm-\ Viincouvn (ri"f^ff//f of /'"' .1/11 11'^ o^v v^^ /// * 'Villi /fS w &mL '■■''*iiiii;)/',M{,v,iJ; 1 J^HBIA '" (vJf/'o/,'////*' /Vj//// *• ... ■ ::^.^.m^t. Sc.ilc 1)1' Milivs I c.i la I ,-j I I - I. J. . I . I . 1 '' '-if'^^-rr^sop ''O'^"'' ADAMS ■• -• j_||jj>iii'V ti '111''' '™'''iiiiMii,„^^|.|^^|.j^^^^^,iiiL;;:^.^,^^^^.. larges markf " T fenced chieflj Those thirty, two or has a family Vaiicoi hshinem men are a no oinui, ns iii in« fmsi ifj^infiteu miiiffiry gvirris'nn. liic onyagod for the term of live years, at the rate 'ot ^[7 lo j^J^ p^' [470] ■^-ou. M no to ii 1 5 per niinnm; but as tfie exchange is reduced to currency at the rate of five shiniiijL;s to the dollar, (he pound sterling is valued at $1 ; hence the price of liibor is ^o GC§ to $G C6§ per month. " Tradc^ i^r. — A larres, canvoss, cordiige, paints, oils, chains and chain cables, anchors, &c., to relit the company's ships t!i;>t remnia on the coast. These are the ship ^'ercide, the brijr IJuma, the schooner Cadborough, and sloop Brougli- ton ; the steamboat Beaver, of 150 tons, two engines of thirty-horse power Cifch, bnilt in London last year. These vessels are all well armed and manned ; the crews are engaged in PiUgland, to serve five years, at £2 per juonth for seamen. The London ship, with the annual supply, usually arrives in the Columbia in early spriuir, discharges, and takes a cargo of lumber to the Sandwich Islands; returns in August to receive the furs that ire brought to the depot (Port Vancouver) once a year from the interior, fia the (;olumI)ia river, from the Snake country, and from the American leiidezvous west of the Rocky mountains, and from as far south as St. Fran- cisco, in California. Whilst one of the company's vessels brings in the collec lions of furs and peltries made at the dilTerent depots along the coast of the ^iiorth, (see map.) the steamboat is now IrAng employed in navigating those inrigniticent straits from .Tuan dc Fuca to Stickcrn. Immense quantities. Of furs, sea otter, beaver, martin, and sable, can be collected alonsf the shores df these bavs and inlets. The chief traders at Narquallah, in 47° 30', Fort Eanuley, in 49° .^0', Fort McLaughlin, in 52° 10', Fort Simpson, in 54° 40' north, purchase nil the furs and peltries from the Indians in the vicinity and as far as New Caledonia, in the interior, and supply them with guns, pow- der, load, tobacco, beads, itc. ; all of which supplies are taken from the jirincipal depot at Fort Vancouver. "An express, as it is called, goes out in March, annually, from Vancouver, and ascends the Columbia 900 miles in batleaus. '^'. ?. of the chief factors, or chief traders, takes charge of the property, and conveys to York factory, on Hudson bay, the annual returns ot the business conducted by the Hudson Hay Company west of the Rocky mountains, in the Cohuvbia district. This party, likewise, conveys to the diilerent forts along the route, (see map,) goods suitable to the Indian trade. Other parties take up supplies, as they may l)e required, to Wallawallah, 250 miles above Van- couver ; to Colville, (iOO miles above ; to the fort, at the junction of Lewis's river, 700 miles above; and to (he south, (o the Fort McRoys, on the river Umpqua. in latitude 4:3° 50' north ; and la.-.i year, chief-trader MctiOod took up to the American rendezvous, in about latitude 43° north, a large supply of iJrilish manufactures. This assemblage of American trappers and hun- ters takes place annually on the western side of the Rocky mountains, fenerally in (he month of .Tuly, and amounts to from 450 to 5U0 men, who ring the result of their yen's labor to sell to the American fnr-traderS; ■•IThese persons purchase their supplies for the trappers at St. I.iOnis; (houglf, ifter beiny subject to the duties on these arficLvs. (chiefly of British inanu- Vlnre,) they (riuisport their goods abou: 1,400 miles by land, lo sell to Citizens of tlie United States within our acknowledged lines of territory. Eiftst year (hey met a powerful o[tponcnt, in the agent of this foreign [470] 10 monopoly, cliioftradcr McLood, who conkl woll afford !o iiiidorscll tlio AnioricfUi fur-trader on his aim ground; fir^t, ly haviu^: llic ;;(jvnfi- taiio of waicr n;tiHiiuiiiicalii)ii on the Coluiiihia and Lewis's rivers ior a distance of 7(10 to 81)1) Iniles; and, secondly, hy in(r(dnciiiL,r the uy Com- pany exercises ovei the Indians, by supplying);- tliein with arms and annnu- nitioti, which may prove, at some tutnre period, highly dangerous to our frontier settlements," * * * "A council annually assembljs at Yorlv factory, wluire reports trom the different 'districts' east and west of the KocKy mountains are read and recorded, and their j)roceedings forwarded to f.iOndon, to the Hudson Hay house. Chief factors and chief traders hold a seat at this council hoard, and Governor Simpson presides. It is liere that every new enterprise is canvassed, expense and pVoliahle profits carefidly inrpiired into, as each momher feels a personal interest in every nieasurii adop.ted. If it is ascer- tained that in certain 'districts' the qnaiuity of beaver diminisln's, the trappers are immr"';„,ely ordered !o desist for a few years, that tlie animals may increase, as the wealth of the country consists in its ("urs ; and so strict are llie laws among many of tiie northern Indian triles, that to ki!l a beaver out of season (/. c. in (he spring or sinmner) is a crime punishi;d with death. The enforcement of tins law is strongly encouraged by the Hudson Hay Company. Not so careful, however, are the company of tha territory not t'ieir own : on the contrary, they have established a fort and trading-house called ■ Mclloy's Fort,' on the river Uinpqun, in 43° 50'. This fine stream falls into the Pacific, (but is not laid down in any printed map;) fen thou- sand beaver skins are collected here, and double this amount brought out of the country adjacent, within our lines; and the Indians are encouraged to ^Irap the streams^ at all seasons. From Wallawallah, Lewis's river, and the Snake couniry, all lying between 42° and 4ti' north latitude, 50,000 skins are collected. The price of a beaver skin in the ' Columbia district,' is ten shillings, ^2, payable in goods at 50 per cent, on tlie invoice cost. I'lach skin averages one and a Jialf pound, and is worth in New Yorlc or London .^5 per pound ; value of $7 50. Tlr beaver skin is the circrdating medium of the country." Again, he says : •'■ I beg to ca'l your atteiuion to Pu*itt's sound, and urge, in the most earnest manner, that this point shall never be abandoned. If the United States claim, and I hope they ever will, as far north at least as the 49' of lalitude, rinming due west from tlic Lake of tlie Woods, on the above jjarallel, we sliall take in Piigiti's sound. In a inUilunj point of view it is of the hig!>est imporlanee to the United States. If it were in the hands of any Ibn.'ign power, cspi-iaUi/ Croat Britain, wiili theintln ;nce she could command, through the Hudson Bay Ompaiiy, over the Iik' ans ;it the north, on those ma^•nificent straits of .Inaii de Fuca, a force oi twenty thousand men could be brought by water in large canoes to the Sound of Puoiti's, in a k\v days ; from tlience to Columbia, the distance is but two days' march, via the Cowilety." Your com nittee, d.vply improssiid with the importance of counteracting it)iv.ij:n inlluTUce over the In Jian trib,;s within oar jurisdiction, will p'arsue the subject still further. At first sight it would bi-; reas nable to suppose that the rugged and stern Rocky mountains, whosa summits are covered with snow, aTid ascend far beyond the region of |)erpetual couiielation, would constitute an everlasting barrier to the passage of liostile armies between the valley of the Mississippi ige id T Il^ar (nt pal II [470] tind (iiat of tlio Columbia; for all tlio journals and narratives of the rarlj' cx- '|Vi()i(i'.3 of this gloomy rc^-inn are re|;l(!te with the siiHrriiigs and privations ot thosu who made the passa^re. The aceounts given us l)y Lewis and Ciarkf, Andrew Ilenry, Wilson P. Hunt, Ranis.iy Crooks, and many others, peenjcd to have placed this heyond the possibility of a doul)t. Uut of this ive shall see. One of its loftiest peaks has been mounted by a travi^ller after Incessant toil. The prospect pr(,'senlina; itself, and the feelings of the be- holder, are given in the gorgeous language of Mr. Irving: J '-Here a scene burst upon the view of < aptain nonnevillc that for a time istonished and overwhelmed him with its inmiensity. lie stood in fact upon hat dividing ridge which Indians reo-ard as the crest of the world ; and on !ach side of which the landscape declines to the two cardinal oceans of the vorld. Whichever way he turned his eye he was confused l)y the vastness md variety of ol'Jects. lleneath iiini the Rocky mountains seemed to open ,11 their secret recesses; deep solemn valleys, treasured lakes, dreary passes, ugged d(!files, and foaming torrents ; while bei/oitd their savage precincts, he eye was lost in an almost innncasurable huidscape, stretching on every ide into dim and liazy distance, like the expansL! ofa summer sea. Which- ver v.'ay he looked he beheld vast plains glimmering with reflected sun- "line ; mighty streams wandering on their shilling course toward either cean ; and snowy nioiuitains, chain bci/nnd chain, and p-eak if/yo/zr/peak, ley inelled like clouds into the horizon. For a time the [ndian fable s(^emed .1 be realized, lie had obtained that height from which the Black Foot arrior, after death, catches a view of the land of souls, and beholds the vppy hunting grounds spread out below him, brightening with the abodes f the iree and generous spirits." This line of continuous mountains, when lie wed at a distance, every where seems impassable: the mind shrinks or coils from such frowning and forbidding obstacles. But within ten or fif- cn years passes of such gentle ascent have been discovered that loaded agons easily traverse them. From the valley of the River Platte, General Ashley passed to the op- site valleys of waters that fall into the Great Bear lake. The waters of t'lis great internal sea are much more brackish than at of the ocean. He descended in canoes one of the rivers that dis- ibogue into it, whicli was 15!) miles in length ; and on coasting the lake, found it 11)0 miles long, and from 60 to 80 wide. Since then, the pas- ge of l!ie Rocky mountains has become an affair of ordinary occurrence, d even p^'rforined by delicate females. The notice of this is extracted from a journal of Mr. Spalding, who is lieved to be a missionary: I '• ]Mr. and Mrs. Spalding, and their associates, Mr. and Mrs. Whitman aiid r. Gray, left the frontiers of Missouri about the first of ]\hiy, 183(3, in mpany with a gentleman engaged in t!io fur trade. Their route gene- lly lay near the Missouri river, until they reached the Platfe ; thence along- tljat river to its fork ; thence along the north fork by the Black Hills, to ij^'dY Us source ; '-hence to the Green river, one of*the branches of the West- ern Colorado; thence to the waters of Bear river, which empties itself into "e Great Salt lake ; and thence to the head waters of Lewis's river, the iithern branch of the Columbia river, on which, or on the streams which n into ir, they ))nrsued their course to Fort Wallawalla, one of the priii- )al posts of the Hudson Bay Company, about 30!) miles from the ocean." ^Mis, Spalding and Jlrs. Wliitman are lielieved to be the fust white wo- [470] 12 mon who htivc traversed these mountains. Thus has vanished the groat obstacle lo a direct and facile con.nuuiication between Mississippi valley and the Pacific ocean. 13iit your committee Vvill nol disi^ni>^o their fears that, if the Ignited States permits this territory to fail into the l'.and.> of Etiglaiid, yhe would, in time of war. he enabled from liiat ([uarfcr lo send a.:;;aiust tins cotmtry an im- mense power. With a well-appointed force mounted on the il'et steeds of the val!i!y of the Cv)hmibia, that lorce, wit'i tlie necessary niuniiions of war and provisions, could ascend t!ie .southern branches of the Columbia river to v.'here thi'y almost interlock wiiii tlu; Platte and other streams v>-hich full into the MiL^souri river ; and after surmounting the slight difficulties whicli have he^n shown to exist, tiiey would soon make their way to the LH'eat plains of the west. Over tlu.'Sj boimd!e;.s prairies roam numerous In- di:m tribes, who wander reirularly from north to south, and from south to north, hangino- on the flanks and rear of the coui'tless herds of bufTaloe that perform their periodical migrations over this great American desert. "Some portion of the v/ilderness along the rivers may partially be subdued by agriculUire ; others may firm vast pastoral tracts, like those of the east ; but it is to be feared that a great part of it will form a lawless inUrval between the abodes of civilized man, like the waters of t!ie ocean or the deserts of Arabia, ai.d like them be sulject to the depredations of the marauder. Here may spring up new and mongrel races, like new forma- tions in geology; the amalgaujation ot the 'debris' and 'abrasions' of l()rnita races, civilized and savage ; the remains of broken and almost extinguished tribes ; the descendants of wandering hunters and trappers • of higitives from tiie Sj)anish and An;ericiui frontiers; of adventurers p desperadoes of evnry class and country, yearly ejected from the bos of society into the wilderness. AVc are centriburing, incessantly, to swell tills singular and heterogeni ous cloud of wild population thtit is to hang about our frontier, by the transfer of whole tribes of savages from the east of the Mississippi to the great wastes of tiie far west ; many of these bear the smar! of real or fancied injuries; many consider themselves as expa- triated beings, wrongfully exiled from their hereditary homes, and the sepulchres of tlieir lathers, and cherish a deep and abiding animosity against the race that has dispossessed them. Some may gradually become pastoral hordes, like those rude and migratory people, half shepherd, half warrior, who, with their flocks and herds, roam the plains of upper Asia; but others, it is lo be ai»prehended, will become predatory bands, mounted on the fleet steeds of the prairies, with the open plains for their marauding ground, and the mountains for their retreats and lurking places.'"* Such is a faithful picture of the nature and character of these lavage and miscel- laneous hordes who roam the plains or inhabit the borders ol' this Sahara ; and who, through the influence of money, presents artfully distributed, combined with some show of military force, could be collected,' if necessary, into one formidable array, and precipitated along the wliole line of the western frontier, overwhelming it with death and destruction. Will Great Britain fail to secure, by every appliance, tiie friendship, trade, and aid, in a war with us. of the numerous and fierce tribes scatU'red along our extended frontiers? Her conduct during the war of the revolu- tion, when she employed them against us; her conduct in exciting them to constant acts of hostility during tlu; period she held possession, in de- fiance of a solemn treaty, of the northwest posts ; the massacre of St. ♦Astoria, 13 [470] roat lley ntcs inie ini- of war i V or ich Hies the Iii- . to loe Clair's army; of the 'iver Raisin; of Diidlny's corps; and a host of hkc niehuicholy instances, will furnish an answer. And, in continnance of this uniform poHcy, she is now dispensing firearms and presents from the St. Lawrence to liie moutli of the Cohitnbia river. Even the Indians of the deep glens and valleys of the Itocky mountains are in- fluenced by this pervadiui^ policy. It has been shown with what facility the Rocky mountains can be traversed. It will now be shown how easy it is to reach them from the west. Colonel Dodge left Leavenworth on the 29th of May, 1835, with three companies of the 2d regiment of dragoons. He took with the com- mand two pieces of artillery, two wagon loads of flour, and twenty-five head of beef cattle, to furnish food, should the chase fail. Ascending the left bank of the Missouri, to the river Platte, which they traversed, they then followed the left of the Platte to its south fork, which they pur- sued, when, for the first time, on the 15th of June, after the clouds had passed away that lowered over the earth, was unveiled to their view a magnificent prospect of the Rocky mountains peering above the horizon. These mountains resembled white conical clouds Ij/ing along the verge of the earth. The rays of a gorgeou.-s setting sun shone upon their snow- capt summits, now at the distance of one hundred miles, giving them a beautiful and splendid appearance. They continued to approach these grand land-marks, when, on the 24th, the Platte was seen emerging from the third and loftiest tier of mountains, pouring its enormous mass of waters over a precipice several hundred f<'et high, furnishing one of the most sublime spectacles in nature. After spending a month in this elevated and delightful region, and forming treaties of peace with several tribes of Indians, they p;issed the dividing ridge which separates the Platte from the Arkansas. They then descended the last named river to the main road, leading from the Sfate of Missouri to Santa Fe, and the inter- nal provinces of Mexico. After a march of 1,600 miles, the corps ai rived at Fort Leavenworth on the 16th of September, in good health, having lost but one man on the route. One of the beef cattle was brought back in a better condition than when it started on the journey. Colonel Dodge is decidedly of the opinion that an army could march with ease from our western confines to the Pacific ocean, taking with it all its artillery, munitions of war, and provisions. A vast chain of mountains comr.iences at the southern extremity of the American continent, which range along the borders of the Pacific ocean, and after threading the Isthmus of Darien, pass, with various altitudes, through Guatamala, Mexico, and its provinces, California, Territory of Ore- gon, and finally disappear in the Arctic region. The northern portion is called the Rocky or Stony mountains, which rise in abrupt ruggedness on the side of the great North American plains, and apparently formed, at a remote period in the history of the world, on its eastern face, the walls to a vast internal sea, the bed of which was the valley of the Mississippi; whilst from its western flanks the descent is in regular terraces to the ocean. The northern extremity of this great spine "of the world, gives origin to some of the noblest rivers of the globe, the Missouri, Saskatchawine, Peace, Columbia, &c. The following extract from the Encyclopedia of Geography, it is under- stood, presents much the most correct and scientific account of these moun- tains yet given to the world, and will not, perhaps, prove uninteresting here ; [ 4'0 ] 14 ii! " The Rocky mountains consist, as far as they liavo bcon cxaminod, of primary Ibniiatioiis, und ihfir rastc^rn chain, the Bhick hil's, of gneiss and mica slute, green .stone, amy^rdaloid, and other igneuns rocks. Chains of primary mountains, snparotjd by sandy plains and volcanic tracts, consti- tute the country between the Rocky rnoinitains and tlie Pacific ; bnv to the cast of that range are several nearly liorizontal formations, of the Umits or the rehitive age of which httle is known. " The country, from the falls of the Platte to the mountains, and from the Missouri to the Arkansas and the Rio Colorado, as well as the plains in- cluded withiij the Rocky mountains, is composed of a 'cd saliferous sand- stone, containing beds of clay ; ?.nd it is supposed that the same formation extends into Mexico, and that the red sand-stone described by Humboldt as occurring extensively in the southern parts of the continent, may belong to it. The general color of the sandstone is red, but it is sometimes grey or white. The saline contents are principally muriate of soda, but other salts, of bitter and cathartic properti rs, likewise abound. Brine springs are of general occurrence, and rock salt is found in large beds west of the Rocky moun- tains, as well as on the Rio Colorado, and sonlh of the great Salt liake. The surface of the ground, especially of the banks of the ravines, is often, also, thickly incrnsted with saline matter. Gypsum is likewise found in many parts of the country, and fossils are 5i;id to abound in the sandstone on the river Platte. In the neighborhood of the Rocky mountains, the for- mation is covered with a deposi'e of gravel and boulders, apparently derived from the adjacent hills; but at a distance from them it is overlaid by a bed of loose barren sand, the drifting of which, the author conceives, may partially conceal the existence of other formations, especially of that green sand v/hich occurs fo extensively on the Missouri above the river Platte. " At the eastern base of the Rocky mountains, and for a short distance up iheir declivity, are various conglomerates, and grey and red sandstones, dipping at high angles ; but these deposites are not considered to belong to the great sandstone foiiuaiion, as they contain no salt. " In ascending the Missouri from iis confluence with tlie Mississippi, the banks are, in many cases, composed of limestone cliffs, 200 and 300 feet iiigh, containing producta;, terebratula^, and encrini : iiills of this limestone occur also near the Chariton, and in (he same district is good bituminous coal. " Above the junction of the Platte with the l\lissouri arc beds of sand- stoiic and dark blue shale, and a little higher, adjacent to the An Jaeque, arc hiiih perpendicular bluffs, of a formation considered to l)e true chall . This deposile extends for several miles up the Missouri, and it occurs fur- ther down the river, about the mouth of the Omawliaw, but its lateral extent is not known. INo flints iiave yet been noticed in ttif.i/, but pebbles and nodules of flints, similar to those so abundant in the valley of the Thames, arc numerous lower down the river, even as low as the Missis- sippi. )3elemuites have been picked up in the same district. •'From below the B\^ Rend to the Rocky moinuains, both on lii« Missouri and the Yellow-stone river, is a vast format ion, said to be very rich in fos- sils, indicating an upper secondary group, and the matrix in which the shells are imbedded rc^sembles, very closely, some of the green sand beds of Europe. The fossils mentioned in the pap-r are a llamite, a Ciry()h!na, considered to be the (injplKiM Coliunbd, and llilvmnilcs ro /njii'fj'isns. Thif foriutttiou has uol been traced conlinuoujsly over the whole area alluded ■n 15 [470] d, of ciiid IS of 3 the ts or to, but the same fossils Iinvo been brmigbt from (ho bcd.^ of thn ?.li?sonri and Yellow Stone rivers, and froni their sprini^s in the Rocky mountains; die/ have likewise hoeii /bund west of tliat range. '• Abive the Iji^r Bjnd occurs, also, an extensive rancro of horizontal beds of liijnite, sandstone, shale, and clay, forming hlufD 200 and 300 feet high, and continuous for several days' journey. Lignite is also found on tho Ciicrry river, and along the whole of the country watered by the Powder river, in beds from 3 to 9 feet thick. This formation is conceived to be more recent than that which contains the fossils, as the hitter has a shght westerly (hp, and therefore may underlie it. "Silicified trunks of trees arc stated to have been noticed on the banks of the streams, and are considered by the traders to have fallen from the bluffs. «• No recent volcanic production appears to have yet been brought from the country east of the Kocky mountains, with tho exception of the pumice which annually descends the Missouri ; but nothing is yet known of the quarter whence it is d^'rivod. West of the mountains, however, from the Salmon river to b^^yond Louis's river, and for a considerable distance around the insulated mountains called the Butts, the comitry is said to be composed of lava, traversed by a multitude of deep, extensive fissures, having a general direction from northwest to southeast, and nearly parallel to that of the nioimtains. '•Volcanic mounds, cracked at the top and surrounded by fissures, are numerous over the wliole region, but no lava appears to have flown from them, and we may conjecture that they were formed by the action of elastic or g.iseous matter. In many places, deep circular funnels, a few yards in diameter, jiciuUrate the surface. For more tlian '10 mik's the Columbia runs between perpendicular cliffs of lava and obsidian, from 200 to 300 feet hitrh. winch are traversed by great fissures, and present all the phenomena of dikes in the most striking m.inner. The Malador branch of the Colum- bia flows throncrb a similnr gorge. " We t ike tins occasion to correct the accounts pniviously given of the Great Salt L^ukc^, which has latelybeen journeyed round, and ascertained to have no ontli.i, though it receives two considerable strei-uns of fresh water. The length of the lake is estimated to bo 150 miles, and its breadth 40 or 50. " Thermal springs abound along the base on each side of the Rocky nioiinliiins, and in the volcanic district I'hey are stated to vary in tem- perature from blood heal to (he boiling point ; and to (brm, from their earth.y contents, large mounds, sometimes of a pu'e white, hard, siliceous na- ture, and, at others, of a substance which, on drying, becomes pulverulent. In the volcanic district sonn; of the springs are said to l)e sour; and many sidphnrons spriuiis occur both in nnd west of (he mountains, liaslly, pure sulphur has been occasionally se(Mi ahovo the (jlreat Salt liake, and at the ca^Mcrn base of the mountains, but none in the volcanic district." Navigators, early as well as recent, portray the country in glowing lan- guage, and dwell with delight on the lovely variety of hill and dale, lertili- ty of soil, noble torests, amenity of hmdscape, pure limpid streau/s flowing throiiirh the liuid ; biU, above all, they dwell, with the greatest satisfaction, on the soft climate of this delightful coast. Cook, Dixon, Portlock, Van- couver, Langsdorf, Kotzebne, and many others, unite in the same opinion as to the IxMiigniiy of the climate, which vari(\s witie from that on the opposite cuustuf iIk! Allaniic ocean, whore, in the winter and spring seasons, in the [470] 16 snmn parallels of latitude, storm, and tempest, hail, snow, and sleet hold sul- len sway. When Lewis and Clarke took their departnre from the coast of the Pacific ocean in the month of March, the surface of the earth was dressed in flowers; the enihryo hnds had expanded into leaves, whilst the grass in the river bottoms was 12 or IS inches high. The following statement of the weather, during the winter and spring they spent there, will not, perhaps, prove uninteresting to the Senate. The temperature changed as they approached the mountains, the highest peaks of which were covered with everlasting snows. January 7. The loss of the thermometer sincerely regretted. The par- ties confident that the climate is much warmer than in the .same parallel of latitude in the Atlantic ocean. There has been one slight while Irost since the 7th of November. Wo have seen no ice, and the weather is so warm that we are obliged to cure our moat with smoke and fire to save il, January 12. The wind from any quarter off the land, or along the northwest coast, causes the air to become cooler. .January 14. Weather perfectly temperate ; never experienced so warm a winter as the present. January 25. It is now perceptibly colder than it has been tliis winter. January 23. Pretty keen frost ; tlie coldest night of tlic season. February. Fair 0, rain 1(3, cloudy 5, snow I day. February S. The feeling of the air indicated tiiat rigor of the winter had passed. February 24. Quite warm. March. Fair 8, rain 16, cloudy 7. So warm that fire was nnnccessary. March 13. Plants began to appear above the giound. March 15. Plants put forth their leaves. March 25. Gooseberry bushes in leaf. March 20. Mumming birds appear. March 30. Grass sixteen inches high in river bottoms. Mr. Prevost says that "the climate to (he southward of 53'^ assurncs a mildness unknown in the same latitude on the eastern side of the corwinent. Without digressing to speculate upon the cause, I will merely state that such is particularly the fiict in 4()° KV, the site of Fort Gregory. The mercury, during (he winter, seldom descends below the freezing point ; when it does so, it is rarely s(ationary (or any number of days, and the severity of (ho season is more determined by the quantity of water than by its congelation. The rains usually commence with November, and continue to fall partially until the latter end of March or the beginning of April. A benign spring succeeds, and when the summer heats obtain, they are so tempered with showers as seldom to suspend vegetation. 1 found it luxuriant on my ar- rival, (October 1, 1818,) and during a fortnight's stay, experienced no change of weather to retard its course." Mr. Irving, in his Astoria, says : " A remarkable characteristic of the country west of the Rocky momitains, is the mildness and equability of the climate. That great mountain barrier seems to divide the continent into dilTerent climates even in the same degree of latitude. The rigorous winters and sultry summers, and all the capricious inequalities of temper- ature prevalent on the Atlantic side of the niouiitains, arc but little fell on their western declivities. The country between them and the Pacific is i i 17 [470] Id sul- ;cd in iss in =!pring The peaks warm \ blessed with milder and steadier temperature, resemblin(r the climate of parallel latitudes in Kurope. In the plains and valleys, but little snow falls throughout the winter, and usually melu while falling. It rarely lies on the ground more than two days at a time, except on the summit of the mountains. The winters are rainy rather than cold. The rains for four months, from the middle of October to the middle of March, are almost in- cessant, and often accompanied by tremendous thunder and lightning. The winds prevalent at this season are from the south and southeast," which usually bring rain. Those from the north to the southwest are the har- bingers of fair weather and a clear sky. The residue of thcv year, from the middle of March to the middle of October, an interval of seven months, is sbrene and delightful. There is scarcely any raia throughout this time, yet the face of the country is kept fresh and verdant by nightly dews, and, occasionally, by humid fogs in the mornings. These are not considered prejudicial to health, since both the natives and the whites sleep in the open air with perfect impunity. While this equable and bland temperature prevails throughout the lower country, the peaks and ridges of the vast mountains by which it is dominated, are covered with perpetual snow. This renders them disceriiable at a great distance, shining, at times, like bright summer clouds; at other times, assuming the most aerial tints, and always forming brilliant and striking features in the vast landscape. The mild temperature prevalent throughout the country is attributed, by some, to the succession of winds from the Pacific ocean, extending from latitude 20° to at least 50° north. These temper the heat of summer, so in the shade no one is incommoded by perspiration. They also soften the rigors of winter, and produce such a moderation in climate that the inhabitants can wear the same dress throughout the year." The following extract is from a recently published journal of Mr. Spal- ding, who lately passed Irom the valley of the Mississippi to the mouth of the Columbin, with his wife: "We left Wallawalla the Gth of Septcn ' r, in a boat propelled by six oarsmen. The usual time of a passage douii is five days. We were de- tained by head winds, and did not arrive till the 12th. Here we were met by the warmest expressions of friendship by Doctor McLaughlin, who con- ducted us immediately to his house. After a brief inter^iow. hec( iductcd us to his gardens, and, be assured, wc were not a little surprised to see west of the Rocky mountains, where we expected to meet scarcely the first lid- dings of civilization, such perfection in horticulture. About five acres are laid out in order, and stored with almost every species of veg« ibles, fruits, and flowers ; and among them figs and citrons, oranges, lemons, pomepan- ates, cotton plants, and all common fruits in the United States. T-iVery thing produces well. For some days our time was divided between visits on the farm, to the mills, the herds, the dairy, the stores, the ship> jjort, the school, ^st coast of America, and associated with \\'m\ for that purpose the following namiid persons, and in the following propor- tions, to wit : SauHiel Brown, o;ie:eventh part; John Derby, one seventh ; Crowc'll Hatch, one sevMutli; .Tonn M. IMntard, one-seventh; and the depo- nent, ouoseveuth. reserving to himself two sevenths ol the concern. That, for the purpose of this voyage, t!ie ship Columbia, under the command of John K''ndriek, and the slooj) Washington, cornmaudnd l)y Robert Gray, were equipped, provided with .suitable cargoes for traflie with the natives of the northwest coast. That so reinarkai)le was the t'X[)i'diiiou considered, it being th • first atte.npt from the Umted States to circutnuavigale thi! glol^e, that medals were slruck, both in silver and copper, bearing on one side the [470] 20 \i M representation of the two vessels, rind on the other the names of the owners. Very particular sailing ordtrs were agreed to, and signed l^y IVlr. Barrell, as agent for the owners, and by the captains, officers, and seamen of both vessels, in which the course of the voyage and the traffic with tlie natives were pointed out ; and it was specially provided that all transactions of business should he on the sole account of the owners. Mr. J. Howell, a very intelligent Englishman, went as clerk to Captain Kendrick. These vessels left Boston in the autumn of 1787. After long delay, they reached Noolka sound, and proceeded to traffic with the natives for furs ; and when a sufficient quantity had been collected. Captain Kendrick put Captain Gray in command ot' the ship Columbia, to proceed with the cargo of furs for Canton, while he remained on the coast, with the sloop Washington, to make further collections of furs. Captain Gray proceeded to Canton, made sale of his furs, and purchased a cargo of teas, with which he returned to Boston. The result of the voyage disappointed the expectations of its projectors, the proceeds of the teas not being equal to the cost of outfit and the unforeseen expenses in Canton and elsewhere ; so that Messrs. Derby and Pintard would not pursue the enterprise further, but sold their shares in the vessels to Messrs. Barrell and Brown. They, with the other owners, determined to send Captain Gray, in command of the Columbia, to the coast for the furs which, it was supposed, Captain Kendrick had been col- lecting. In this ship, Mr. John Hoskins, a young man who had been in Mr. Barren's counting room, and who was in his confidence, was sent as captain's clerk, with the design of attending to sales and purchases. Captain Gray proceeded to the northwest coast, and on the 7th of May, 1792. came in sight of land, in latitude 4G° 58', and anchored in, what lie named. Bui- finch's harbor. On the 11th, he entered the mouth of a large river,aiid on the 14th, sailed up the same about fifteen milfs. This river he named Lohnnbia, after the name of his ship; the north side of the entrance, Ca])e Hancnckj and the soulh side, 7^0?/// Jlrf«w7.9. Captain Gray remained in this river until the morning of the 21st May. The knowledge of these facts was obtained as follows: After Captain Gray had made a second voyage to Canton, he returned to Boston with a cargo of teas. It was determine d by the owners to prosecute the voyage no further with the ship, In i to leave Captain Kendrick, in the sloop Washington, to attend to their interests on the coast. Intelligence was obtained from Captain Gray of the discovery of Columbia river; but nothing was done in consequence of it until 1816, when Samuel Brown, FiSq., the principal livnig owner, after the death of Joseph Barrell, Esq., requested the deponent to inake inquiry after Captain Gray's papers, and to take correct copies of all proceedings relative thereto; and this was done in consequence of President Madison's application to Iiim for information. The deponent accordingly applied to the friends of the widow of Captain Gray; and, after some lime spent in the search, obtained from Mr. Silas Atkins, a brother of the widow Gray, the oriirinal log-book of the ship Columbia, while u»)der the command of Captain Gray, from which he made the following: extract: From the Log-Book of the ship Colmiibia, Robert Cray, tnastcr, 1792. May 7, 1792, A. i\i.— Btiing within six miles of the land, saw ni tranc"'. in tlu^.same, which had a very good appearance of a harbor ; lower- ed away the jolly boat, and went in search of an anchoring place, the ship \ 21 [4-0] 'iiers. lei I, as both Jtivrs >ris of HI, a lifise [iched Iwlien ipfnin Airs I, to Inrinde led to |of its ii and >erby flares nera, to ihe n col- Ion, standing to and fro, with a very strong "feather current. At 1 p. m., the boat returned, having found no place whe. ■ the ship could anchor with safety ; made sail on the ship — stood in fo. the sliore. We soon saw, from our mast head, a passage in between the sand bars. At half past 3, bore away, and run in northeast by east, having from four to eight fathoms, sandy bottom ; and, as we drew in nearer between the bars, had from ten to thirteen fathoms, havin^ a very strong tide of ebb to stem. Many ca- noes came alongside. At 5 p.m., came to in five fathoms water, sandy bot- tom, in a safe harbor, well sheltered from the sea by long sand bars and spits. Oiir latitude observed, this day, was 46° .58' north. May 10. — Fresh breezes, and pleasant weather ; many natives along side ; at noon, all the canoes left us. At 1 p. m., began to unmoor, took up the best bower anchor, and hove short on the small bower anchor. At half past 4, being high water, hove up the anchor, and came to sail and a beating down the harbor. May 11. — At half-past 7, we were out clear of the bars, and directed our course to the southward, along shore. At 8 p. m., the entrance of Bulfinch's harbor bore north, distance four miles, the southern extremity of the land bore south southeast half east, and the northern north-northwest — sent up the maintop gallant-yfird and set all sail. At 4 a. m., saw the entrance of our desired port bearing east-southeast, distance six leagues ; in steering sails, and hauled our wind in shore. At 8 a. m., being a little to windward of the entrance of the harbor, bore away, and run in east northeast, be- tween the breakers, having from live to seven fathoms of water. When we were over the bar, we found this to be a large rivv . o{ fresh water, up which we steered. Many canoes came along side. At 1 p. m., came to with the small bower, in ten fathoms, black and white sand ; the entrance between the bars bore west southwest, distant ten miles. The north side of the river, a half mile distant from the ship; the south side of the same two and a half miles distance ; a village on the north side of the river west by north, distant three quarters of a mile. Vast numbers of natives came along side — people employed in pumping the salt water ont of our water ca.^lis, in order to fill with fresh, while the ship floated in. So ends. May 12. — Many natives along side ; noon, fresh wind ; let go the best bower anchor and veered out on both cables. Sent down the maintop gal- lant-yard, filled up all the water casks in the hold. The latter part, heavy gales, and rainy, dirty weather. May \3. — Fresh winds, and rainy w^eather, many natives along side. Hove up the best bower anchor. Seamen and tradesmen at their various departments. A'lttt/ 14. — Fresh gales and cloudy; many natives along side; at noon, weighed and came to sail, standing up the river liOrlheast by east ; we found the channel very narrow. At 4 p. m., we had sailed upwards of twelve or fifteen miles, when the channel was so very narrow that it was almost im- possible to keep in it, having from three to eighteen fathoms water, sandy bottom ; at half past four, the ship took ground : but she did not stny long before she canie ofT", without any assistance. We backed liercfT, stern fore- most, into three f.itlionis, and let go the small bower, and moored ship with kcdge t\m] hawser. The jolly boat was sent to sound the chaimel ont, but found it not navigiible any further up; so, of course, we must have taken the wrong channel. So ends, with rainy weather, many natives along side. \l [470] 32 Tuesday, May 15. — Light airs and pleasant weather ; many natives from difF.3rent tribes came alongside. At 10 a. m., unmoored and dropped down with the tide to a better anchoring place. Smiths and other trades- men constantly employed. In the afternoon, Captain Gray and Mr. Hos- kins, in the jolly boat, went on shore to take a short view of the country. May 16. — Light airs and cloudy; at 4 a. m., hove up the anchor and t6wed down about three miles, with the last of the ebb tide ; ca.iie into six fathoms, sandy bottom, the jolly boat sounding the chanuel. At 10 a. m., a fresh breeze came up river. With the first of the ebb tide we got under way and beat down river. At 1, from its being very squally, we came to, about two miles from the village, Chinou/c, which bore west-southwest. Many natives alongside ; fresh gales and squally. May 17. — Fresh winds and squally ; many canoes alongside. Caulkers caulking the pinnace; seamen paying the ship's sides with tar; painter painting ship ; smiths and carpenters at their departments. May 18. — Pleasant weather ; at 4 in the morning began to heave ahead ; at ^ past came to sail, standing down river with the ebb tide ; at 7, being slack water and the wind fluttering, we came to in 5 fathoms, sandy bot- tom ; the entrance between the bars bore southwest by west, distance three miles. The north point of the harbor bore northwest, distant two miles; the south bore southeast, distant three and a half miles. At 9, a breeze sprang up from the eastward ; took up the anchor and came to sail, but the wind soon came fluttering again. Came to with tlie kedge and haw- ser, veered out fifty fathoms. Noon pleasant. Latitude observed 46" 17' north. At 1, came to sail with the first of the ebb tide, and drifted down broadside, with light airs and strong tide ; at three-quarters past,'^ a fresh wind came fronj the northward ; wore ship and stood into the river again. At 4 came to in six fathoms ; good holding ground, about six or seven miles up ; many canoes along side. May 19. — Fresh wind and clear weather. Early a ' ruber of canoes came alongside ; seamen and tradesmen employed in their various depart- ments. Captain Gray gave this river the name of Columhin.s river, and the north side of the entrance Cupe Hancock ; the south, Adaniti's point. May 20. — Gentle breezes and pleasant weather. At 1 p. m., being full sea, took up the anchor and made sail, standing down river. At 2, ttie wind left us, we being on the bar with a very strong tide, which set on the breakers; it was now not possible to get out without a breeze to shoot her across the tide ; so we were obliged to bring up in 3^ fathoms, the tide running 5 knots. At three-quarters past 2, afresh wind came in from seaboard ;^we immediately came to sail arid beat over the bar, having from 6 to 7 fathoms water in the channel. At 5 i>. m., we were out, clear of all the bars, and in 20 fathoms water. A breezv^ came from the south- ward ; we bore away to the northward ; set all sail to the best advantage. At 8, Cape Hancock bore southeast, distant three leagues ; the north ex- tremity of the land in sight bore north by west. At 9, in steering and top gallant sails. Midnight, light airs. May 21.— At 6 a. m., the nearest land in sight bore east-southeast, dis- tant eight leagues. At 7, set top gallant sails and litrht stay s;\ils. At 1 1, set steering sails fore and aft. iNoon, pleasant agreeable weaiher. Tiie entrance oi BulfmdCs harbjr boro southeast by east half east, dislaut five leagues. 23 t 4T0 ] Ikers Inter bad ; The deponent hereby certifies that the above extract contains every thing relating to the discovery of Columbia river, which was contained in the log book kept by Captain Gray, on board the ship Cohtmbia. And the deponent further certifies, that in the month oi September, in the past year, 1837, he was applied to by Slaciun, Esq., of Alex- andria, in the District of Colnmbia, for rny infornriaiion which he might possess on this subject ; that he exhibited to Mr. Slacum such pt;pers and documents relating to the subject as were in his possession, and referred him to the widow of Captain Gray, or to her descendants, for the original log-book before mentioned ; that in consequence jf this, Mr. Slacnm em- ployed Thomas Bnlfinch, a son of the deponent, to make inquiry and search for said original log book ; that said Thomas Bulfinch accordingly made such inquiry, and found that Capt. Silas Atkins and Mrs. Gray, widow of Captain Robert Gray, had both departed this life several years since ; that there were no surviving immediate descendants of Captain Gray, but that Mrs. Nash, a niece of Mrs. Gray, was probably possessed of all the papers that related to his command of the Columbia. Thomas Bulfinch then applied to Mrs. Nash, who very readily handed to him one log-book of the ship Columbia, containing minutes of her voyage from Boston to the straights of Johnde F'uca, in 1791, but stated that another log-book, which contained the proceedings at Columbia river in 1792, had been used as waste paper, and was entirely destroyed. Upon hearing this, the depo- nent determined to draw up a statement, in jyerpetnam rd mevwriam^ of all the evidence now to be obtained of the discovery of said Columbia river, he being the only survivor of the original undertakers of the enter- prise, and having outlived, at the age of 75, all who, as officers or seamen, were engaged in the operations of the Columbia and Washington ; which statement may. in future, be important in determining the right of the Uni- ted States to the honor of discovering the river, and, consequently, to the right of jurisdiction over the country adjacent. CHARLES BULFINCH. United States, ) Massachusells District. ) Then Charles Bulfinch, Esq., of the city of Boston, personally appeared and made oath to the truth of the within declaration, (by him written and subscribed,) so far as relates to particulars stated as within his own know- ledge, and in regard to all other facts and circumstances therein expressed, that he believes the same to be true. Before me, JOHN DAVIS, Judge of U, S. District Courts Mass. District. Boston, ilpn/ 21, 1838.