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32 X
1 2 3
1
2
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6
A DIGEST OF VOLUMI-: I. Ol' "I'«R()M IWDDLE
^\ TO pr()pi:itt-:r."
Bv Aktiiuk AVkik, !'.. A. S(
- \
9/)/
(Kkom ihk Srii i.\i C(pMMF,kLiAi Tkam-.i
Tlie tourist tiavelliiiif tlnmiiili ( 'aiiadi
ill H Piillnifin expiL'ss or tlio isalcon of
some spieiidiil river stuamer is usually
content to take tlie journejas he linds it,
askin- out shouldered
their bales of niiu'ly pounds and threaued
the then well trodden path o\er lontort-
ed gneiss, or tiirnu'_;h the sylvan aisles.
to the ipiiet w.itei' alio' •.
Tt is, indeed, wonilerfnl to thiidc tluit,
with the very slightest engineering assist-
ance, the Freiieli. for o\or a century,
Civrried on a tralHc by no UiCius small
.I'.Ks \rMii];i< 1. 1- ■• Ihk Mi-.'vai.i>," igyj)
;IirougIiour what is now tlie Dominion of
Caii.tda, and left to the IJrirish iiut
little in the way of geographical dis-
covery. Not even the Kocky Mountains
would have arrested the adventurous
foot of the coiiriei- des hois or the jiriest.
"M.iii is sto[iped by man alone," says tlie
adage, and so it was in Canada. La-
verendrye"s grand progress in search of
:he Western sea was stopped only by the
wild tiibes he encountered. During the
entire French regime the only improve-
ment in waterways was the ill-fated
Lachine canal begun in 17<10 by Catalogue
for T)e Casson, Superior of the Seminary.
Champlain, it is true, had erected crosses
on the Ottawa in lOl.'J, but more fiu-
devotional jiurposes ths'u as land-
marks. The St. liawrenco had been
charted, as well as the Gulf, between
iT2;{ and 17.57, and a few landm.irks made
on its banks for .seagoing vessils, for
whose guidance also the first lighthouse
in C.inada w;is erected at Louisburg in
IT.'W, being extinguished only with the
glory ot France in the New World. Be-
tween tjiieliee .ind iMontreal land coin-
iiiunicati'.)!! had lieeii established as early
as ITl.'i and 17^1 and a n.ad made, pa.ss-
ing through Three Flivers, which was
open for vehicles by I7.1(i and completed
by 2 7.'>H. This road, long the only post
road in (.'aiiada, w;is with that lH;tweeii
ALontreal and I.,acliine, and one in Acadia
froiii Ciimberl.-ind to Bale Verie, the only
ones in French Canada, e.\ce))t around
the towns and at a few portages. Talon,
the wise, had conleiii[)lated a road, to
Acadia, luit this was too great an ficcoin-
plishment m-en for the man who had
opened trade with tlie West Indies and
who had essayed to establish maniifac-
luies in Canada.
When tJreat Britain secured control of
2
Canada prompt effor '\ were made to
establish communica. jti between the
various centres. The route to Acadia
was surveyed in 1701, as well as that of
historic memory to New England via the
Chaudiere and Kennebec. In 17«9 the
merchants of Quebec petitioned for a
road to Pert Halifax in New England.
The Riche'.ieu r(»ute, .316 miles from Lti-
chine to Albany, and the route by the St.
Lawrence, lake Ontario, Oswego, Onon-
daga, etc., 420 miles long, were other
routes in use.
The first roads under British rule seem
to have been to New England. By 1770
a portion from Gloucester Co., N.Y., to
Lake Champlahi, was begun by private
subscription, but it was not until 1790
that New York State opened a n-ul from
Lake George to the boundary. In the
winter of 1780 Capt. Rogers occupied 38
days in passing from New York to St.
John's, Que. The Chambly Canal ! d
been proposed by Silas Deano about
1785. His argument contains data
whereby it is found that no fewer than
2,000 waggon loads of merchandise passed
by this route annually. The proposal was
again brought forward in 1791 by Adam
Lymburner, and in 1796 hy Ira Allan .
It was not, however, until after the
union of the Canadas that the canals
were finished, although after the war of
1812 a company was ftirmed for the pur-
pose. A fine stage line for the times
was opened between Montreal and New
York by way of the Eastern Townships
in 1832, the route being through Hunt-
mgdon from Chateauguay Basin to Fort
Covington, where connection was made
with the stage for Ogdensburg.
While speaking of stage coaches, a few
words will not be out of place regarding
the stage between Montreal and Quebec,
Let us embark with Mr. J. M. LeMoine,
the genial historian and President of
Canada's Royal Society, upon one of
these coaches, red or blue, according to
the day and line, which is now drawn up
this winter dawn, say Anno Domini 1852,
before the Albion Hotel, Palace Street,
or Schleup's Hotel (now St. Louis), in
St. Louis Street, Quebec. The sleigh is
covered and has seats for four. If the
wind bites keenly as we pass the city
gates WG draw the curtains, but there is
st>mething exhilerating in the swift glide
of the runners, crisping the snow under
them, and in the jingle of the bells
which the two stout Canadian ponies
toss as they dash along on the first stage
to St. Augustin. But by the time Three
Rivers is reached, namely nine in the.
evening, we are quite ready for fire, hot
toddy and bed, and not sorry to i-eaoh
Montreal, weather permittnig, the next
night, having paid our ten dollars for the
journey and our extras for bed and
board. Next year we propose to go via
Grand Trunk, which will then be ouen.
The American revolution by compelling
British North America to depend on its
own routes, and also by sending large
numbers of Loyalists to settle Ontnrio
and New Brunswick, gave quite an im-
petus to the opening up of highways, and
the improvement of waterways. The
communication between Quebec and Hali-
fax via New York was supplimented by
one via the St. Lawrence in summer and
its south shore in winter. The route l»y
water to Kamouraska, thence inland ^o
Jake Temisquata, the Madawaska and St.
John was also followed in summer, and
a road was made at the Temisquata port-
age after the war. The couriers who
carried dispatches by this route before
the road was made received their hundred
dollars per tri]), and earned it well.
No royal authority could shorten the
weary stretch of miles between Quebec
•ind Kamouraska nor lift the chill fogs
which rolled their instantaneous curtain
along the almost uninhabited and always
perilous shores ; no " open sesame "
could procure a royal road through the
devious paths threading the wilderness,
over mountain peak, by sombre valleys,
strewn thick with fallen and decayed trees
and sown with almost impenetrable
thickets, by deep morass or barren tracts
of sand. The king's courier inspired no
awe in the wild beast whose eye fol-
lowed his solitary figure through the de-
solate forest ; and in winter hunger
dogged his footsteps, and the gaunt wolf
howled upon his track. The wind scream-
ed through the leafless boughs and the
snow lay treacherously deep, while the
only human being he was likely to meet
was the equally merciless Indian. Woe
to him if he lost his way in some blindin<,'
snowstorm, or if the breath of wiiiter
reached his marrow ; that snow would bo
liis wjudiiig sheet, the wind his only re-
quiem!
Even after the road was made, a cor-
duroy which took hills as a jumper takes
fences, wnd slid down into valleys like a
toboggp,n, the traveller had a pretty hard
time oi it, but the journey was reduced
front a month to a fortnight, and the
change was regarded as satisfactory.
It is true tliat a corduroy road is
somewhat jolty, true also that adverse
winds might detain the voyageur a few
days at Temisquata lake ; true that the
Madawaska is a stream with some impedi-
ments and that the St. Jolw, into which
it tiows, has impediments also ; it is true
tiiat it is not pleasant to float about the
Bay of Fundy in an open boat, surround-
ed by a fog and at tlie mercy of the fur-
ious tides between Fort Howe and Anna-
polis, but when Annapolis was reached
the traveller wa,^ within measurable dis-
tance of his destination and ran no risk
of losing his way since the road, though
confessedly bad, was the only ono in
Nova Scotia worthy of the name. Besides,
one always felt his scalp safe when Anna-
polis was gained, and it is a source of
discomfort to the most enthusiastic
traveller to think that he may be mur-
dered for his samples, as were poor
McNeil and his guide in 1784, about
thirty-six miles below Kamouraska.
The Kempt or Old Military road, so
called to distinguish it from the Meta-
{)ediac road was completed in 1832. It
struck across from Metis to Baie des
Chaleurs. It was neither macadamized
nor planked, and was traversed in winter
on sriowshoes or dog sleds, in which
primitive manner the mail service of tliat
[»art of Quebec was conducted for over
thirty years.
If Halifax a hundred years ago was
twice as far away as is London to-day,
how far off was Toronto, now readied in
a night from Montreal? It was in 1799 so
far away from every other part of Ontario
that the Legislature could not be con-
vened in winter. There was Yonge
Street, of course, begun in 1793, and ex-
tended to lake Huron in 1796. Dundas
Street had just been proposed by Asa.
Danforth and was to be completed in
1800. Lieut. -Gov. Hunter had been
able in 1799 to say that a "tolerable"
road had been completed to the Quebec
boundary, but it was not until 1801 that
t.te idea of a regular frequent mail be-
tween the two provinces coold be enter-
toined. In 1797 there was only one winter
express, going from Quebec and Montreal
to Detroit via Niagara.
Ther^ was, nevertheless, a large vol
ume of through trade in summer from
Montreal to the great lone land beyond
Ontario. Voyageurs of the North West
Conjpany were coming and going in their
bateaux between Montreal and Grand
Portage, at the head of Lake Superior,
sometimes by the St. Lawrence route,
but more frequently by way of the Ot-
tawa. The rapids in the St. Lawrence
were very troublesome, but those in the
Ottawa were even more so, and the
voyageurs who followed the latter route
were given double pay and the crews were
double in number. Benjamin Frobisher
said in 1785 that the <^)ttawa route was
"eminently dangerous lor the transport
of ;,'oods from the number of cataracts
and the length and rapidity of the river
not to mention the carrying places, which
from Montreal to lake Huron are up-
wards of forty in number, over which
the Canadians carry the goods and
canoes occasionally ; and it is to their
dexterity alone and the knowledge they
have of the management of canoes in
this particular branch of the inland busi-
ness, that so few accidents happen." The
(ntawa route, however, avoidid lakes
Erie and Ontario, debouching in Georg-
ian Bay, Lake Ontitrio.
The journey from Montreal to Grand
Portage lasted about two months, and
the costof transport averaged about $1,000
per batteau, the goods being worth about
$2,000 at Montreal, the charges of trans-
port from England being about fifty per
cent. also. Some ninety or ono hundred
canoes went west from Montreal each
season, and the furs brought down were
estimated to be worth £200,000 stg. or
about eight dollars per head of the popn-
lation. Four years were required to send
orders for goods to England, receive
them in Montreal, senu them west, ex-
change them for furs and sell the furs in
London.
Partly to accommodate this trade and
largely to facilitate transport of nmnitions
of war during the revolution, Capt.
Twiss, between 1779 and 1783, construct-
ed four canals at the rapids between
Lakes St. Louis and St. Francis, which
were enlarged and altered at the sugges-
tion of Col. Mann bet ween 1800 and 1»06,
and afterwards still further enlarged by
the Royal Staff Corps in 1817 to accom-
modate batteaux carrying from 80 to 1^
barrels of flour. The Beaah^irnuis CaMd,
to ovcrcoi.io the siime mpitls, whs ii..t
built until 1845. Pii„r to IHOO tlu! Loii..,^
Siiult, nt Cornwall, was aseondud hy
luoansof two small lockH. Tp i„ the
I'nion, tmvolloi's for thu WoHt ascendeil
m stoiiinl)i)ats, takMng stagos to ])ass the
vnpids, whoro othur vessels awaited
theju. The cost of frei,;,dit from ^Montreal
to Prescott before the St. Lawrence can il
• system was )?l«i i)er ton, and !«!8 ai had secured a 15 year monopoly
yntil cm the route were vessels liner than
in any other p.irt of America, althouWi
It was considered "famous" pro'^ress if
the ships made 21 miles in nine hours up
stream, with a wind astern. Thev
anchored each night, and were assisted
up St. Mary's current, by oxen. At
«r"n*''*^'^^ ''*'*" was engined the Royal
Wilham, built at Quebec, the first
vqssel to cross the Atlantic entire-
(li trnttic. A
» to Cliij)-
opoiied ill
liJvs been
rticlo, be-
lo of Ciiu-
;atioii WHS
rhwest ex-
uid ciinals
mil c.'inal
'J^aviojition
ttiwii iind
:ed iu the
I eighteen
erous was
i;ress was
i^n by tlie
rrivals at
496 tons
rrivals in
,118 tons
ilying be-
i was the
European
id it was
nail was
[Halifax.
t London
early in
; in July.
*ened 1st
I term of
Mided by
' system,
3r, made
of trans-
te many
e, as for
the lake
ements,
it of the
ints and
to navi-
snied tu
^1
merchants durin-^ the trouble of the Re-
volution and which Government would
gladly have withheld after the separation,
on the plea that private vessels would in-
dulge in smuggling. Canada's trade was
chiefly with (Jreat Britain, the North
American coast, the West Indies and
Gibraltar, and strange to say, a trade
was being developed witii China, by fast
sailing vessels fiom what is now British
Columbia.
Tiie greatness of ancient Rome de-
liended on the fact that all roads led to
the Capital. Canada early set herself the
ide.il of physical union. The Grand Trunk
and the canals united the Caiiadas, the
Interc(jlonial bound the Maritime Pro-
vinces to the Dominion, and the Cana-
dian Pacific completes the union to the
Pacific coast. Man, like the rest of
nature, follows the line of least resist-
ance, and with the improvement of our
inghways t'ne tide of immigration aug-
inented in voluiiio, new territory was
ooened, tourists came and went, and now
commerce, in ever increasing strength
unites the whole Dominiou by bonds
that neither race nor politic?^ can loosen.
The commercial traveller is not merely
under the same flag at Vimeouver and
Halifax, but 0(|uaily at home. He is the
missionary of peace, the apostle of fra-
ternity, and his mi.ssion will continue
from province t<« province until their
boundaries shall l)e merely an illusion ;
and with the harmony of commercial lawi^,'
that must inevitably come, shall come
also !v homogeneity of manners and
customs which will cement the Great
Dominion into one vast entity, instinct
with a national life, that shall owe its
being to the grand arteries of trade and
travel which place Caiifida even now iu
the forefront of the nations.
'^^ii^
I
THELyxyRyOfTRWELONOEBFeEIICIIflULE
IvVTKACT FROM MU. WKIR-s R;KTIIC0MIN(; wokk •■ K
TO I'KOI'KLLKR."
KOM fADDLI.;
VVhou B.g„Mnivellecl. ir wa„ i„ tmly
I'yHl state HHcl «H illuHtmiing M.oyl.,,,.;.
Imt was tl.nnvn ,.vm- oourtl.rog.^.HH i,
U.m(aHHco,n|m.o.l with ti.e li.mlships
of • B.got et sa C..,u-. l,y M,. Mannothe!
Ws.ant Arc nv.«t „f Ca.wuU may aci:
Mntagtv.usly |,e c..i:„.,Ito.l. It may l,o
p easant t,. do.so tl.o hist.ny of tivel
Una.ia duim^ the French re^i.ne a.ui.l
tl»e i.,.mi. ami luxury „f a hrillinnt, if
oorrupfc. court, especially as the study
will bring out several characteristics of
the people, notably their open-hamled
o«I>itHhty, which went f,..r to reu.ove
bstaclesand nntigate the tribulations
of travel along inhabited routes.
llie Sieur Franquet was com-
missioned from France in 1751
<'l,..r''''f . ^!'^' fortifications of
Caiuda and Acadia and, among other
incidents, his journal contains an account
o his journey frou, Quebec to Montreal
hadnlfo'T f 'f rfe'^^hich the Intendant
vessel of about four tons burden was
i.'') spend several months each year on
ofMcial business at Montreal, leaving
Quebec sometime in January and return"
ing in August. In 175:i tho date of de-
parture from tho cajjital had been set by
puquesne for I4th January, and Bigot
had ottered to bear him company as far
on his roau as Point-aux-Trembles, above
Quebec. Tiie otter included :i supper and
an early breakfast, aud was accepted as
gracefully as offered. Bigot's hospitality
being such as few would willingly forego.
Both governor and intendant %vere sur-
rounded with a numerous suite, the
former being accompanied by Mr. Ducli-
esnay, his captain of the guard, Mr.
MeroUe, his private secretary. Captain.s
bamt-Ours, la Martinicre, Hlorin and
Pean, and tho lieutenants de U Roche
and le Mercier. As Bigot's guests were
FraiKjuet, CaptainsSaintVincent,Dumont
and do Lanandiere, with Lieutenant do
Kepentii^ny.
But it must not bo supposed that
Bigot's court was con ituted solely of
ttie sterner sex. Although he was a
bachelor, or perhaps on that account, he
seldom moved without a galaxy of beauty
in his train, chief among which was
Madam Pean, wife of tho captain alM)ve-
mentWme.l. Scarcely behind, however
were the ladies de Lotliiniere, Morin do
Repentigny and dii Linoii, all of whom
accompanied him on this r>ccasion.
At ten in the ruing there was a
brilhant scene on the Place d'Armes of
Quebec. M.ire than thirty h..rses champ-
ed their bits and pawed the ground, their
bells jmglinjr at every impatient move-
ment. The horses were harnessed in
pans to the carioles, and at that hour
the party set out. the governor in the van.
each cariole cniiiaining (ho mystic ami
MUisfactory number, I wo. Passing through
the St. Louis (Jate, amid salvos of artil-
h'ly, the party entered the champaign
with a powdery snow blowing into their
faces uiton the southwest wind, which
augmented the intense cold of the wintry
day, and made tho arrival at Pointo-aux-
Tremblos in the afternoon a very wel-
come event.
The village was in a furore of excite-
ment. Bigot's cooks, sent on ahead,
wore working liko beavers. The chim-
neys of the .;onveiit where tho General
was to lodge, poured forth volunibs of
smoke. A military detachment, also sent
on in advance, was on the (pii vivo to re
ceiye its general and the inhabitants were
waiting in anxious expectation to add
their (juota to the welcome.
The supper sustained Bigot's reputa-
tion as a boil vivant, and the party, whose
appetites had tRien sharpened by the long,
cold drive, did full justice to it. Gaming,
for which tho century was distingnisliod!
followed, hut by ten o'clock < , . vone had
retired to his (piarters.
The Governor resumed his route at
nine the following morning, half-a-dozen
carioles having preceded him to beat the
road. Bigot and his companions remained
the day at Puinto-aux-Tremblos and re-
turned to Quebec on the KJth. leaving at
two in the afternoon and arriving at. five
o'clock, having made a slnn-t halt at Cap
Rouge to permit the ladies to warm them-
selves. The excursion was terminated
by supper and play at the house of Ma-
dam Pean.
The Intendant usually followed the
Governor to Montreal in March, liut on
tills occasion he ft)!!ow,vl in fise middle of
Felnuary. His progress was even more
s{)lendid than that of the Governor. Six
days before his departure all was bustle,
the baggage of his guests being sent for-
w.inl 111 iidvuiici,' wi,I, H,o kitchen wiuip-
!M.>iit, liiioii Hi.d .'-...lyUiinK nocosH/iry for
thecuMMueiifo of Hiyut hihI liin party
Hiul Hiu oiiloitHiiiuieiit lit Ills tdhio of
tw.'iity or tW(!iity.tiv«( yiiestH.
On thooiKhfliof FtibruHiy tl.o uuestN
of ho Intondm.t, tifto.-n in nun.hor, in-
duthng MX IndiuN, dinod at lli«ot'N mUvn
with HH niuc'i luxury und order as tlioui/h
tliey were not .il.out I .. leave the place for
"lonthH. After the meal each Kentlenian
conducted the lady aNsi^ned to Iiiin. to
then- CHiiole, and in a few inoinentN the
joyous party, Bigot in the van, were
Hpeedmy throu-h St. Valier Street
towards the roa.l to Lorette. The horses
surfeited with oats, hounded eagerly
over the tirni snow, nianes stroaniiii.' in
he wind with tossing heads, their blood
lusty with the c.l.l air of a clear winter
day, through which their l.reath drifted
in wiaithsofiuist, while the foau, from
their bits froze as it fell.
Tiii! first stop was at P(.inte-Hux-
ireiubles where they pas,sed the night.
Cards whiled away the hours before din-
ner, and two hours were devoted to
the rl3past. The cabmen were paid, and
returned to Quebec, while orders were
issued to the captain of the cote to sup-
ply Ht seven next niorning the h.uws
required to continue the journey. Re-
freshments of tea, coffee and chocolate
were served at an early hour next day,
Hiul the drive was resumed. The church
ot La|)e .Nmte was passed and the "cote
'I lai;e descended, where relays were
had and tw(. hours devoted to breakfast,
or rather luncheon as the route was not
resumed until after midday.
At four in the afternoon the steaiuinc/
horses were drawn up at Ste. Anne de la
f arade, the j)arty was billeted and the
evenuij,' again passed in eating and
«ivmn.g. Ihe next day found them has-
tening still forward. They changed
horses, but did not stop l.mg at Cap de
la Magdeleine, and drove through Three
Kivers shortly before noon, being saluted
by cannon. They halted at Yamachiche
for the night, and the next day. bein..
.Sunday, they atttmded Mass and did not
consequently set out until ten o'clock.
At Beaver Island, which they reached
about three o'clock in the afternoon,
Big..t, and hm coM.paiiioiH were agreeably
surprised by the arrival of the GovernoV
trom Montreal, welcome additions to the
card party that was already assembled
8
Tlut following day Du.piesne hhhuiiio.I the
jM.st of honor in the lend, the otlieiH fob
lowing, and the route was resumed to
lointe-aux-Trembles, .,n the island of
>Ionireal, whore they halted for the
night, and played faro,
An incident, which might have been an
nccident, omirred during the j.nirney of
that day. The horses drawing Framiuot,
who WIS alone, took fright. The driver
dismounted to stop them, when he re-
ceived a kick in the face and the team
swent across the ice towards an opening
m the river. With Fran.|uet, who found
his steeds entirely beyond control, it wax
a question of jumping out or drowning
HI the icy waters, and he chose the
tormer course.
Montreal was entered by the lieanlmr-
Hois gate next day, the l.'Jth, the journey
hHVing extended over about five days
According to Fram.uet, the cost of each
cariole between Montreal and (Juebec
was from 70 tu 75 livres, while the
vliaige for each horse was twenty sols
per league, or counting tifty-seven
leagues between the two towns the
charge for a horse vehicle amounted to
184 or 190 lures. Add to these charges
the cost of feeding the ptrty and its
mimeious retinue, and 7 livres 10 sols
per diem to the grand voyer or road sur-
veyor who i)receded the Intendant by
Home days to put the roads in proper
condition, and it will be seen that the
cost of "doing" the nip i„ regal style
was very considerable.
Furthermore, every league of the road
l)etween Montreal and Quebec was cov-
ered with a small army of habitants in
advance, who, lacking the mirth of fur-
clad exquisites and the encouragement of
bright eyes and fair faces near at hand
drove up and down, hour after hour, in
their sleighs, beating down the snow,
that the vice-regal party might urge for-
ward from stage to stage at a gallop,
without impediment. Whenever the
chiefs of the colony moved, the whole
country moved also. Exclude the court
brilliancy and the lavish expenditure,
deprive the roads of the special super-
vision of the grand voyer and the lalK)r8
of the habitant, and it is not difficult to
realize the hardships and actual danijers
vvJiich had to be faced by unofficial per-
sons whom necessity compelled to travel
on this route in inid-winter ; and neces-
sity aloue could hivve led to such a course.