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Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuv3nt dtre film^s d des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre leproduit en un seul clichd, il est filmd d partir de Tangle sup^rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n6cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 "V SOUVENIR OF A TOUR IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA AND CANADA. ^smmmmmmi^immmmm ! ill J«s*ipwaiww5^^w«linwp >, ^-^ -,^e&M- ^ IHI r .SOUVi:\IR OF A TOUR IN rill. UNITHl) STATES Ol" AMERICA AND CANADA * III the Autiiniii of iS7 2. Ilv JOIIX \\.\ TSOX, <»l- .\ll.i..s|..\M). / ,///,/•., .) ,im,n/:; y,<:, f,,{-in' //.'A>'." - liru \- (II.ASCOW I'K I XTl'.lJ I- I) R 1-K I V A r |-. I I k C L LAT ION. CIIRISIMAS iS-2. m _ .JX4 /f- FE ij l«rf"'-v*l I'KIMKU I'.V SIIIKI.KV AN I) IIAKKNKSS, 111 LSI I. K. SIKllVI. l-DINDlkCM. PRIiIMTORV NOTi:. T^III-: following' Diary -f a brief tour in America was urilten -I fc.lcly for the perufal ..f my ,,v.n family. As f^m home it was. t<. a -reat extent, a Cnnple cin-oiiicle of ,ny ,,ui. iHrf.-nal movements.' u'ith fuch notes, defcriptive-.f the places an■ SOUVENIR OK A TOUR IN Sept. I. Ihip, a young gentleman from Dcrry — the form of fervice being that of the Englilh Church. During this forenoon all the paffengers were talking of the dreadful gale. Had a chat with the old flewardefs, Mrs Nelfon, who iecolle6led having feen me fome years ago at Liver- pool feeing Mrs Orr (Mrs Watfon's fifter) away to America in the " Perfia." The old lady told me that (he had never before experienced fuch a rough paffage during the month of Augufl, nor fcarcely at any period of the year — " This is like a voyage in the worfl: month of win- ter, fir." To-day is exceedingly fine, with the fim fliining brightly, but there is a heavy fwell on the water, which caufes the Ihip to roll very much. All are now wifliing for calm weather, if only for the fake of variety, feeing that we are within three days' fail of New York. Mrs Arthur has migrated to the fore faloon, and while I am writing flie is reclining on one of the couches, her fon fitting near her. She bears out my idea that this faloon is greatly more comfortable than the other. Collefled fome fubfcriptions to-day, in addition to a few I had colle(5led before leaving home, for Widow Ruffel of Chicago, and her children, and I now feel pretty certain of being able to hand her over fully t\^ cnty pounds fterl ng, which will be of great fervice in her prefent aft1i6lion, flic having lufl: her luifband, dwelling-houfe, and houfehold furniture in the difaftrous fire which burned down a lar^re portion of Chicago. Knowing fome relations of her deccafed hufljand refident in Motherwell, as refpeflable and induflrious perfuns, who had probably affifted their unfortunate relations in Chicago as far as their means permitted, I originated a fubfcription among my own friends, with the refult juft ftated. A noteworthy incident of to-day's voyage was that a heavy fea broke in upon our fliip, fweeping the lower deck, where a great many paffengers were feated, from end to end with great force. You may be furc it very fpccdil)- fcattcred the whole party, and fpoiled the valuable clothe.s of many of them, much to the anuifement of thofe who were looking down from the faloon deck, although it was rather wicked of them to rejoice at the misfortunes of their neighbours. The weather moderated after this, and, along with fome others, I waited on deck to fee the going down of the fun on the wide wafle of waters, which was a beautiful and, in fome refpefls, a folemn fight. Diftance accomplillicd to-day, 322 miles. 1 TIIK UMTKI) STATKS AND CANADA. I was jufl about to write tliat this morniii^f I was " up with the lark," but foon rccollefled that no larks fin^ on the mij^hty At- lantic Ocean, fo, putting down tlie plain truth, let me fay that after an excellent niijht's reft I made my appearance on deck a little after feven o'clock, determined to have an hour's airinj,' before break- fafl:. The weather has at length changed for the better, and to-day almofl the whole of the paffengcrs ha>-e fliewn up. Many whom I had not feen hitherto came on decK this morning for the firfl: time, and it is the general opinion on board that the remainder of our paffage will be pleafant and fmooth. The monotony of the voyage was broken to-day by one of the " fights at fea :" about noon we met the " Spain," a large four-maftcd veffel with two funnels, belonging to the National Steam Shipping Co., and bound from New York to London. This interefled us all very much, as did a barque in the diftance, fuppofed to be making for the Weft Indies. It may be mentioned here that ever fince leaving Oueenftown the "Ruffia" has encountered flrong head winds, and thefe have, of courfe, greatly retarded our progrefs. It is amufmg to note the expedients reforted to on board in order to " kill time," as it is called, and the efforts to do this would amufe a deeper fludent of human chara6ler than I can pretend to be. An immenfc deal of card-playing and betting goes on in certain circles. Every day a number of bets arc made or a fwecpftakes entered into as regards the number of miles the fliip has failed during the preceding twenty-four hours. The diftancc made from day to day is announced in a bulletin iffued by the Captain, generally about half-pafl twelve o'clock, and not till then is it known who is the winner. To-day, for the firft time, I joined one of thefe fwecpftakes, and pocketed half-a- fovereign as my winnings. The fweepflake was got up as to the number of miles the fliip had failed up till twelve o'clock ; my guefs was 284, other gentlemen had gueffed from 286 to 305, but the diflance a6lually run turned out to be 275 miles, and my guefs being the neareft, I won the fweepftake. You have no idea of the intereft fuch a trifling affair as this creates on board fliip, where all are naturally anxious to find fome caufe of excitement. Jufl: at prefent (fay fix o'clock r.M.) other two large fwecpftakes are being organized as to the number of the pilot boat which fhall firft reach our fliip with pilot on board to Sept. 2. 8 sorvr.Nik ok a roru in Sept. 2. ffuidc her fafcly into New \'ork. It appears there arc t\VL'nt)'-ft)ur of thcfe pilot boats, fo twenty-four i;entlenien havinj^ each placed a pound in the pool, the holder of the lucky number wdl pocket twenty- three fovereiL,Mis. I have joined one of the pools or fweeps. Turned in about ei-rht o'clock. Sept. 3. Qot up this morning about feven o'clock, after a capital nif^ht's reft. Had my ufual hour's walk on deck before breakfaft was ferved, and enjoyed that meal very much. Would you like to know what I had for breakfail to-day ? Well, I bej^an, as at home, with fomc porridge and milk, followed by a cuj) of tea and a chop, and wound up by partaking of a fmall portion of a favourite American difli called " hominy." This e.xcellent condiment is compofed of the fneet Indian corn ground like oatmeal, which, after being thoroughly boiled, is fried in fmall cakes, and may be eaten either with fugar or fait and butter, according to tafle. At breakfaft we have all kinds of bread, hot rolls, potatoes, &c. While I am bufy porting up my Diary (at half-part ten o'clock), the gentlemen intererted in the fweeprtakes, which I have already defcribed, are keeping a rtiarp look-out for the pilot boats. One of them (No. 14) has been feen in the dirtancc ; but being too far off to make up to us, the gentleman holding that number may be faid to be quite " out of the hunt." Three o'clock. — The fweeprtakes are at length decided, and " No. i " has carried the day, a pilot boat bearing that number having juft come " right (lap down upon us," as an American lad faid. General Buttcrfield is the lucky holder of number one in our fwcep, fo he places £2^ to his credit by the tranfa6lion. I may juft mention tliat the moment the boat came alongfide, the Captain ordered the fteam to be fliut off, in order that the pilot might be able to board us. Dined, as ufual, at four o'clock ; and an hour and a half afterwards, whilft walking on deck — the weather being fine although rather cold — another pilot boat, No 19, approached and falutcd our good fliip, the " Ruffia." About fix o'clock we were all intererted by the cry of "land ho!" Long Ifland having come into fight on our right. As it feems we fhall not reach our place of anchorage until about :welve o'clock to- nipfht, I refolve, as it is very cold, to "turn in," making the good iiiL-; L'NirKi) siAri.s and c anada. rcfulution, before doiiitj fo, to be up an hour earlier than ufual in the Sept. y lllorlli^J^^ the quarantine tloclor beinj; expefled on board about feven o'clock A.M., to certify a.s to our ^eiu'ral health, after which every- body will hallen to gt) on lliore. Turned out thi.s morning about fix o'clock, and found that we had call anchor near Staten I.shuul. After breakfal!:, at fcvcn o'clock, the "RuHla" weij^hed anchor, ar.J beamed to the Cunard Wharf at Jerfey Cit}'. After a very lon;^ delay in Lj(;ttin^ out the I'l^j^afjc we at len<^th left the fteanier, and proceedinLj to a carria^i^e belon^Mnjj to the I''ifth Avenue Hotel, we drove direct to that palatial edifice. My firfl a<5l after arriving was to telegraph home to Mrs Watfon, in a cipher form previoufly agreed upon: I fimply fent the word.s "Ac- knowledge — Receipt — Important," each word having, of courfc, its own meaning. Soi.1.4. THE UNITED STATES: NEW YORK. The fcnfation of once again being on dry land was exceedingly St-pt. 4. plcafant, although it was fomc time before I could feel I was not " hcezing " up and down in the fliip. After fecuring a bedroom and taking a hot bath, which was a great luxury, I dreffed for din- ner ; in the meantime we had a vifitor in Mr R. Rennie, 152 Cham- bers Street, a friend of my friends the Ilendries. After dinner I llroUed with the Meffrs Hendrie along Broadway, one of the fincfl: ftrects in New York, as far as the South Ferry oppofite to Brooklyn, a diftance of about three miles. Returning to our hotel by omnibus, we took tea, after which I wrote my Diary, and about ten minutes after nine o'clock was fnug in bed. Met Mr Arthur of liarfliaw while walking along Broadway, and had a minute's chat with him. From the flight glance of New York which I obtained lafl night, it Sept. 5. began to dawn upon me this morning that I had reached a land of C lO St)UVENiK UK A ToL'k l\ .Sept. 5. wonders, and that I was dwcllinj; in a city of ^rcat fplcndour, where, as in all other nii|,Mity con^re^Mtions of men, there was alfo poverty of the molt appallin;^f kind. Thcfe were the thouj;hts which occurred to me as I was dreninj^f for breakfall, of v hich meal we p.irtook at nine o'clock. At about ten o'clock we had a call from Mr William Rcnnie, fon of Mr Robert Rennie, who kindly came to aift as our .t;;uide, and to (liew us the riij;hts of New York. Hired an open carriaj^^e and pair off the llreet in order to drive throus^h the city. The char^'e will allonilh you — it was at the rate of two dollars an hour — a dollar, as you are aware, beiiiLj about four lhillin}.;s in Hritilh money. We had a hard day's work in fij^ht-feeini;. I Ihall briefly run over what we faw, and then I will ^Mve j-ou an idea of my impreffions of the " ICmpire Cit)'," as the Americans call New York. Firlll)', we proceeded to the Supreme Courts, then to the City Hall, in Broadway, and next to the offices of the lu[uitable Affurance Com- pany, in the fame ^reat thorou<^difare, which are faid to be the fuiell in the world. We afcendtxl by a lift to the top of the eltablifliment, in order to obtain a better view of New York than we could obtain from driving about in a carriai^e. It is always advifable to view a city from fome hi^h place, as it helps one to underhand its geography better than any number of drives, and we were awarded an excellent view of New York City, New Jerfey City, and Brooklyn. We next went to the Affay Office, a place where they melt down both new and old gold and fdver, and from the Affay Office to the Stock l^xchange and Court Houfes in Wall Street was a natural fequence. The next place of interefl: which we vifited in the city was "The Tombs," or City Prifon of New York, and in one of the cells of this melancholy place we faw and heard a man named Stocks (the perlbn who murdered the notorious Fifl-:) converfing with a friend who had called to fee him. They fpoke to each other through a grating, which, I believe, is the cultom in all prifons. The time occupied in feeing the places I have mentioned was about three hours. After leaving the prifon of " The Tombs," wc drove to the Central PtHc, a place of recreation for the people of New York, which refemblcs, in fome degree, the Bois de Boulogne in the environs of Paris, and is very large, containing at leaft eight hundred acres of pleafure-ground, in walks, graffy plots, lakes, Till; IMIKl) SIAIKS AM) CANADA. I I fiou'cr-j^farclciis, zoolo^M'cal C()llc6lions, &c. \Vc fpcnt an lioiir or two in this place very cnjoyably, aiul afurwanls drove aloiiLj with Mr WiHiaiii Rciinie to liis chib, where we dined. As the tluh (the Lnion Lea;4iie Chib) was nearl\' oppolile our hotel in the I'^iflh Aveiuie, we felt (piite at home. .^M'tcr dinner we adjourned to the iMl'lh Avenue Theatre, where we fpeiit the eveiiini;, and came home to " roult " about half-pall ten o'clock. The chief theatres in .W-w York, if I ma>' juil,L;e from the one we vidted, are exceeilinj^ly comfortable, and in man>- ref- pecfls fu|)eri()r to thofe at home: the comfort of the audience bein^ efpecially lludied. Sept. 5. lireakfarted about the ufual hour — viz., nine o'clock — when Mr William Rcnnie again kindly called, offering to f[)eiul tiie ilay with us. I preferred, however, to be left to m>- own devices this da)-, as it was my wifli to vifit f(jme friends, particularly my old fchool-fellow, Mr John Baird, and the Turki.igtons. iMrlt of all, I called at Mr Uaird's house, 324 Lexington Avenue ; the eldelt daughter only was at Home, the other members of the family being away at the coall, aiul her father away at his office in the city. Went then to 15J Chambers Street for a telegram which I cxiiected from home. Called next at ]\Ir liaird's office, 29 William Street, and happily found him there. We vifited Delmonico's, a celebrated reilaurant, and partook of refreHunents, and had a very long chat. Afterwards I went acrofs, via Fulton's Ferry, and called upon Mr and Mrs Turkington, with whom I remained till nearly ciark, when I left for my hotel that I might fuiidi the writing of this Diary, which, along with a letter, I am anxious to fend home to my wife and children at 10.45, the hour at which the box clofes for Eng- land. St|it. 6. The weather this morning is very hot. Vifitors came to-day at breakfaft time, and we had alfo the pleafure of feeing fome acquaint- ances: Mr William Robertfon, mining engineer, Glafgow, and Mr Baird, formerly manager to Meffrs Colin Dunlop & Co., of Quarter Iron Works, fat down oppofite to us at the breakfaft table, having juft arrived from Port Wafhington Iron Works. Mr William Turkington called about ten, and I afked him to fpcnd the day with us in fight- Sept. 7. 12 SOUVENIR OK A TOUR IN' I •Sept. 7. feeing, to which propofition lie kindly agreed. My firll: bufinefs was to call at the bank of Taylors lirothers, Wall Street, to procure fomc of what is vulgarly called " the needful." I difcounted with them a twenty pounds National Bank of Scotland Circular Note at the rate of five dollars and forty cents per pound flerling, or a total of one hundred and eight dollars. My next vifit was to the City of the Dead (or " God's Acre," as a graveyard is fometimes calleu in England) at the beautiful cemetery of Greenwood, at Brooklyn. In order to econo- mife time, and fee the place to advantage, we hired a carriage for an hour's drive thrv^ugh the cemetery grounds, which arc v ry extenfive, covering a fpace of over fix hundred acres. The monuments are much more expenfive than any we have in Glafgow Necropolis, fome of them having coft from ten to fifteen thoufand pounds ! The hearfes here are very light and elegant, being built chiefly of plate glafs, which admits of the coffin infide being feen. After infpe6ling the cemetery, we pro- ceeded, partly on foot and partly by aid of the cars, to vifit Profpeft Park. This is alfo a very large park, but not fo large as the Central on the other fide of the river, called the Ea(^ River ; the Hudfon, at New Jerfey, where we landed from the " Ruffia," being known as the North River. Enjoyed the vifit to Profpe6l Park exceedingly, and remained fully an hour promenading up and down among a vafl: number of other gentlemen, many of them accompanied by ladies, liftening to the mufic difcourfed by a capital inftrumental band. Arrived at our hotel about fix o'clock, and dined at the table d'hote — the dinner of my friend corting me two dollars, which is about eight fliillings fler- ling : this fact is noted fimply to give you an idea of American prices. Having finiflied dinner, we adjourned, along with Mr Rv bert- fon and Mr Baird, to a concert-room, in Twenty-third Street, where we heard fomc finging fimilar to that of the Chrifly Minftrels at St James' Hall, London. After a very brief flay we left, and proceeded to a garden concert, where we remained but a fliort hour, and then came home to our hotel. Sept. 8. You will have read at home by this time of the great heat experi- enced thi ; feafon in New York. I can corroborate, from perfonal experience, all that has been faid. To-day it is fo exceffively hot that THE I'NITKD STATES AND CANADA. 13 few pcrfoi\s are to be feen on the ftrcct ; my friends and myfelf have in confequcnce determined not to go out of doors. I am therefore bufy writing in my bedroom, with as hght a burden in the way of clothes as I can poffibly fuftain ; and my friends are in their bedrooms in a fimilar condition. Mr Turkington was to have called this forenoon to inform us whether the celebrated Rev. Henry Ward Beecher was to preach to-day in his church at Brooklyn, as we are all very anxious to hear him, but up to the prefcnt time, 1.30 I'.M., he has not made his appearance. Since our arrival the weather has been, fpeaking generally, very fine — neither too hot nor too cold ; bril- liant funfliine during the day, greatly tempc d by a flight breeze. To-day, however, it is all too hot for our Scottifli taftcs. Yeflcr- day I called on Mr T. Denniftoun, at No. 10 Twentieth Stret^t, near this hotel, but, unluckily, he had gone out. You will remember of his being at Glencairn, along with Mr Baird, two years ago. He had called upon me at the hotel here on Thurfday evening, but I was out at the time, and did not fee him. His brother, however, whom I did fee, was very cordial and hofpitable, and offered us the ufe of his car- riage and pair for a drive in the Central Park, or anywhere clfe we plcafed. I promifed to call again, if time would permit, to fee his brother, but found that I could not manage to do fo. While we were in our refpe6live bedrooms fliunning the heat, Turkington, it feems, was in the reading-room of the hotel waiting for us. We dined at three o'clock, and continued refting and chatting within doors, on account of the ftill intenfe heat, for a couple of hours after dinner. The thermometer, I may tell you, ftood at 97° in the fliade, and we heard of fix cafes of funftroke having taken place. As Robertfon and Baird were on the point of ftarting for Canada, we wiflied them a hearty fare- well, and then fallied out for a walk, proceeding down to Third Avenue, to obtain a flreet railway car to convey us to the ferry at " Hell Gate," as it is ca'lod. This ferry is conveniently placed in order to enable any one to fee and infpe6l the Government operations for improving the navigation of Eaft River — an improvement which, if accompliflied, will enable veffels from Europe to reach New York by the other end of Long Ifland, and thus favc pretty nearly a day's failing. The village of Aftoria is clofe by the works where the great under- Sept. 8. 14 SOUVENIR OK A TOUR IN Sept. 8. water blafting operations, which we went to infpedl, are being carried on. It is thought, if the opening of the river for large fliips proves fucccfsful, that this Httlc village may yet become a large town. Mr Turkington told nic that he had afl\ed his father to purchafe property there ; and it might turn out a very good fpeculation to do fo. We returned to our hotel by the fame route as we went, and reached it about nine o'clock, infpecling on our way the large fuite of ftables belonging to the Tramway Company, which can accommodate 1500 horfes, with houfe room in addition for 250 of the large ftreet cars which are now an inftitution in American cities. All claffes ufe them, and they are to be found on the chief ftreets of New York, Broadway excepted, where only omnibufes of the ufual kind are allowed to ply. Thefe are exceedingly plentiful, and are much ufed. There is no condu6lor, as on our 'bufes : you go into them without ceremony, the coachman opening and clofing the doors by means of a pulley, and you hand your fare to that funflionary through a hole in the roof of the vehicle. No perfon rides on the roof of a 'bus here, becaufe in fummer the heat is fo exceffive and in winter the cold is fo feverc. As you will have gathered from what has been detailed to you, I have been rather induftrious in feeing all that could be feen, and I fliall now flatc briefly my general impreffions of New York, which con- tains a population of one million fouls. The "Empire City" is juft like all other great feats of population : it contains the ufual mixture of good and bad. There are all around evidences of great wealth and of dire poverty. Palaces for the wealthy, which have coft, in their ere6lion and decoration, fabulous fums of money ; and hovels for the poor, which have been run up for the price of an old fong. Take, for inftance, the private dwelling-houfe of Mr A. T. Stewart in Fifth Avenue ; it is built wholly of fine white marble, and is fuperbly fitted up. Some of the fliops and many of the offices in Broadway are alfo built of marble or granite, others being conflru6led of iron work, com- mon ftone, brick, and other material. Many of the New York fliops or " ftores," as they arc called, are decorated with great fplendour, and contain goods of the fineft qualities, fome kinds of which are far more if i l*.2 THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. 15 expenfive than the fame goods are at home. The hotels are moftly all buildings of vafl fize— cfpccially cre6led for the purpofe of being ufed as hotels — as are the theatres and newfpaper offices. The rcltaurants and o> iler faloons are numerous, and fome of them, fuch as Delmonico's, arc fitted up at very great coft. In many of the cafes the cuflomcrs are ferved by joung women gaily dreffed for the purpofe of pleafmg the eye. Of courfe there are markets of vaft fize teeming with fifli, meat, fruit, game. Sec, in wonderful variety, and it muft take an enormous quantity of provifions of all kinds to feed fuch a large population, augmented as it is daily by an inceffant influx of ftrangers from every part of America, and, indeed, from all parts of the world. Every perfon one fees feems bent on bufinefs ; perfons do not linger over their meals, but rife from table at once, and ftart off to their " ftorcs," or to follow fome purfuit or another. Great ufe is made here of fleam power and the electric telegraph, the latter power being in conftant ufe by all claffes of the people, and the forefts of fleamboat funnels one obferves at the various harbours and quays afford convincing proof of the American fondnefs for loco- motion. Everywhere, too, there is a defire to pulh bufinefs : even the lobbies of the hotels being crowded with perfons having newfpapers, books of light literature, and other things for fale. As may be fup- pofed, amid fuch a bufy and competitive population, there is a conftant demand for news, and the newfpapers here feem to fell in tens of thou- fands. I may mention, too, that there is an abfence of much of the ufelefs ceremony and etiquette which oppreffes us a good deal in the old country. As an example of what I mean, I may juft fay that neither clergymen nor lawyers here wear a dirtinftive drefs — the advocate has no wig, and the minifter may be preaching to you in a fliooting coat and tweed troufers ! There is much lefs confumption of tobacco than I had expe6led to find in New York, and the general fobriety of the people is commendable. Of courfe there are drunkards, as in all other communities, but the drunkennefs of New York did not appear to me to be at all ftriking. At dinner very little wine is con- fumed, either in hotels or private houfes — indeed, the popping of a cork makes quite a noife ! Iced water is the chief drink of all claffes here ; and while ice is abundant and cheap — nearly every family ufing a Sept. 8. i6 SOUVENIR OF A TOUR IN Sept. 8. few pounds of it daily — water is plentiful, the people being juftly proud of their water-works. The water fupply of New York is brought from a diftance of 40 miles over hill and dale, and the chief refervoir contains a fupply equal to five hundred millions of gallons : a refervoir nearer the place of confumption holds about one hundred and fifty millions of gallons, and is thirty-five acres in extent. I fuf- pe6l Glafgow and Loch Katrine muft play fecond fiddle to the Croton Water-works of New York. FROM NEW YORK TO ALBANY AND SARATOGA. Sept. 9, Having made up our minds to move onward, we took breakfaft early to-day, and by nine o'clock were on our way for Albany on board of the " Daniel Drew," the weather being ftill very warm, but tempered a little by a breeze off the water. Our fteamboat is in all refpe6ls a magnificent fliip, and far furpaffes in almoft every appoint- ment our far-famed Clyde " lona," which fomewhat refembles the American river fteamcrs. We enjoyed the fcenery on both fides of t'.o Hudfon very much — it wa.s a complete feaft to the eyes ; whilfi: the Icene on the water was occafionally enlivened by the appearance of a fteam- tug drawing fome twenty or thirty merchant veffels loaded with goods of various kinds, many of them well flowed with building materials, fuch as cut wood, bricks, flones, &c. ; others were filled with grain, and all were bound for New York. The River Hudfon is greatly a pleafure fliream for the people of New York, who largely avail them- fclves of the iuxurioufly fitted up paffengcr veffels which fail upon it for the purpofe of viewing the fine highland fcenery to which it gives accefs — indeed, "the Highlands" of the Hudfon are 'ihought by fome tourifts who have feen both to furpafs in many rcfpe6ls the fcenery of the Rhine itfelf It was on the Hudfon, too, that Robert Fulton, the inventor, tried his fleamboat in 1807. two hundred years after the dif- covery of the river by Hendrick Hudfon, the Dutch navigator. Our 4 i THE UMTKIJ STATK.S AXl) CANADA. •7 vcffel, the "Daniel Drew," made a friendly call at various points to let out or take in paffengcrs. Among other places at which we flopped were Yonkcrs (where Walliington wooed his flrft love, Mary Philips), Weft Point (where is fituated the United States Military Academy),' Cornwall, Newburg, Poughkeepfie, and Rhinebeck, where there is an a6live iron work with two blaft furnaces in operation. I cannot in the limits of a Diary particularize all the places we paff-d or the fights I faw, but many of them were of confiderable hiftorical intcreft. We alfo ftopped at Catfldll and Iludfon, and ultimately reached Albany ^bout fix o'clock, having ftcamed in all a diftance of nearly 150 miles. The River Hudfon is not navigable farther up than Troy: all along its courfe I noticed that a confiderable number of the houfes were built of wood, and I fancied them to be very comfortable dwell- ing places. We walked direft from the boat to a hotel called the "Dclavan Houfe," where we were made exceedingly comfortable. We haa previoufly dined on board the fteamboat about three o'clock, when we partook of an excellent and well-ferved meal, the fteward and all his fubordinates being coloured perfons, chiefly from the Southern States of Georgia and Carolina, but thefe negroes make excellent waiters. The American river fteamcrs are neither more nor lefs than floating palaces, replete with all the comforts which a traveller can defire. Lavatories, dreffmg-rooms, clofets, fhaving fliops, book and newfpaper ftands, fruit fliops, and fo on. Moft of the fteamboats have likewifc bridal chambers fitted up moft luxurioufly for newly-married couples, who do not fluui publicity during the honeymoon as our modeft Scot- tifli maidens do ; in fact, it is a blemifli in the American charader that the home life is not thought fo effential to domeftic happinefs as with us in the dear old " land of the mountain and the flood." I have encountered whole families here— papa, mamma, and a colony of fons and daughters— who know no other home than the public rooms of the hotel in which they contra6l for board and lodging ! Sept, 9. After a hearty breakfaft we proceeded on foot to fee the fights of Albany, the chief town— indeed, the capital— of the State of New York. In turn we vifited the Agricultural State Hail, the City Hall, the Supreme Court Houfe, and the Capitcl, in which various public D Sept, 10. ^- I8 SOUVENIR OF A TOUR IN 1 Sept. 10. officers have accommodation. A new Capitol is being built at an eftimatcd expcnfe of ten million dollars! This, when completed, ought to be a fine building, confidering what it will cofl ; and I have no doubt it will, judging from the model which one of the fore- men exhibited to my friends and myfelf We next proceeded to exa- mine the great bridge acrofs the Hudfon, and walked along to the other end of it, where there is a fmall town. This bridge is likewife ufcd for railway purpofes, efpecially for trains to Bofton and other towns in that direftion ; and there is a portion of it which opens in the centre fo that veffels may pafs up and down the river. This part of the flruflure, which is about one hundred yards long, is moved by fleam power, and works very eafily. Whilfl we were on the bridge we faw it fwung round, and fo I am able to fpeak about it from obfervation. Afterwards we made a little excurfion in a flreet tramway car, driv- ing about three miles into the country in the dire6lion of Troy, a town fix miles from Albany ; and returning about three o'clock to our hotel, we fat down to dinner, being waited upon, as in the fleam- boat, by coloured fervants. Before quitting Albany, I may flate that it is populous with " inflitutions " of all kinds — civil, criminal, and reli- gious. There is, for inflance, the State Library, which contains Co,ooo volumes ; the Albany Inftitutc for Scientific Advancement, containing a library of 9000 volumes ; the Young Men's Affociation and the Apprentice's Library, which contain 17,000 volumes between them ; there is alfo a very fine model prifon or penitentiary. Albany alfo contains a large number of churches, one of which, the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, contains fittings for 4000 perfons. An obfervatory, well furniflied and richly endowed, enables the fludy of aftronomy to be carried on with advantage. Nor is the art of war neglefled or forgotten, a great gloomy building being devoted to the purpofes of a State Arfenal. At half-paft four o'clock we left by train for Saratoga, the fafliionable watering place of America, where we arrived at feven o'clock. We walked through a portion of the town to the Clarendon Hotel, where we obtained bedrooms, our baggage reaching us about half-an-hour afterwards. Travellers in this country have very little trouble with their luggage, and do not require to worry themfelves looking after it upon the road as they have to do in England THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. an ted, d I are- xa- hcr for in itre the am aw 3n. iv- a to Tl- at li- 30 le Df n )f :r o Y e 19 and on the Continent. It is given in charge to a pcrfon at the begin- ning of the journey, who delivers up a "token" for each package, and you never need to take any trouble about it till you arrive at your deflination, when you mention to which hotel you are going, and your traps are duly forwarded. The weather being delightful to-day, we enjoyed the run by rail from Albany very much. During the progrefs of our journey we took note of all that was going on, efpecially obferving that numerous fields of Indian corn were being cut down : in all fliapes and forms this cereal is in great demand in the United States. Orchards of fine fruit were alfo noticeable during the journey on each fide of the river, and the railway as well. A large trade in timber is carried on at Albany— the canal, beginning at Lake Erie, about 300 miles in the interior of the country, affording excellent facilities for tranfit. In the evening we ftrolled through the interefling city of Saratoga, tafting the water at two of the mineral fprings which have brought fuch fame to the place. The firfi: fpring yields a liquid very much refembling feltzer water. It is fituated in the garden attached to our hotel (the Clarendon) ; the other fpring which I vifited is the property of another hotel called the Columbian, but we did not like the flavour of it fo well. Saratoga may be defcribcd as a mixture of Harrogate and Scarborough in Yorkfliire. It is the gay place of refort in the feafon of numerous American families, attra6led by the fame of its fprings, and a dcfire to mix in the moft fafliionable fociety of the United States'. Living at Saratoga in the height of the feafon is very expenfive, the charge at fome of the hotels being as high as five dollars for each perfon per day ; and the fuites of dreffes required by thofe ladies who defire to fliinc at the balLs, pic-nics, &c., are very expenfive indeed. The cofl: of yifiting the place of late years has become fo high, that many families, infl:ead of going to drink the mineral waters, prefer taking a voyage to Europe and back, feeing the Highlands of Scotland, the mountains of Switzerland, and the hiftoric fights and fcencs of Italy before they return. As I have indicated, there are many different waters, but the fpring moft fought after is the Congrefs Spring, difcovered in 1792, the waters of which are fent all over the world. Dreffing, Sept. 10. 20 SOUVENIR OV A TOUR IN Sept. lo. dancing, and water-drink'ng, are the chief occupations of thofo who vifit Saratoga ; and, in July and Auguft, I was told that there are about 30,000 people conftantly coming and going ; the refident popu- lation, however, js not more than Sooo inhabitants. Beyond its being the refort of gay fociety, there is nothing particular about the fcenery or furroundings of Saratoga ; but two or three of the hotels are remarkable for their fize and elegance, and hotels are a great inftitu- tion all over America, do plenty of bufinefs, are well organifed, and very profitable. Moft of them are of vafl .Ize : many contain 1000 apartments ! There are, as might be expefled from its being fo crowded with vifitors, a number of hotels ia Saratoga, as alfo feveral boarding houfes of a fuperior kind. One of the houfes there, the Union HaU Hotel, can accommodate as many as iSooguefts, and another, the Congrcfs Hall Hotel, can put up 1500 perfons — quite a. population of itfclf ! It may be alfo mentioned that attached to the Union Hall Hotel there is a large theatre or opera-houfe, and at all the hotels there are bands of mufic. It may intereft you to know that the Union contains twelve acres of carpeting and one acre of marble tiling, and that a vertical railway, or afccnding chamber, ren- ders the whole fix floreys of the houfe of eafy accefs to the ladies and gentlemen who temporarily refide in it. Within the hotel grounds, I may alfo flate, there arc numerous elegant cottages, which are much fought after by vifitors. Sept. 11. Arofe rather earlier than ufual this morning to take a fliort ftroll in the city of fprings before breakfaft time. I drank at three of the wells in order to tafte the water. After breakfaft, my friends and I engaged a carriage for a three hours' drive in the neighbourhood, and with a view particularly to fee Saratoga Lake, about fix miles diftant from our hotel. On our way to this flieet of water, we vifited a num- ber of mineral fprings, kept open for vifitors at a trifling charge ; but we were contented with a mere tafte of the waters, not being inclined to exceed in our potations. While driving along we left our carriage once or twice to gather a few delicious apples which grow on trees planted by the wayfide, and which the coachman told us were/rc bono publico. Apples, peaches, grapes, &c., are cultivated exten- THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. 21 fively and in great variety throughout the States, all in the open air, no Sq.t. 1 1. hothoufe being required for either grapes or peaches ; and being an ex- ceedingly plentiful crop this feafon, apple- are confequently very cheap. Excepting apples, however, I do not think the flavour of American fruits equal to that of thofe grown at home. We had alfo an oppor- tunity during our ride of vifiting a harvefl: field, where we examined the Indian corn as it was being gathered in, and alfo the large yellow pumpkins which grow along with the corn, and are ufed in the fame way as turnips, being boiled for the feeding of cattle. THROUGH CANADA TO THE FALLS OF NIAGARA. After dinner we took the train at 3.15 for Glens Falls Station, on our way to Lake George; and we arrived at Caldwell, a fmall town at the end of the lake, after a pleafant ride, about fix o'clock, having come a part of the way by ftage coach. During this journey we enjoyed quite a change of fcenery, the landfcape being wild and rugged inftead of paftoral and quiet. Here we had wild woods and rufliing waters, reminding me of our own Highlands and other fcenes that I had formerly vifited. I may notice, before going farther, that we all obferved how bad the roads are here, both in town and country. They ftand in great need of being macadamifed ! The road from Glens Falls to Caldwell is laid with wooden planks the whole way fo as to fill half its breadth ; the other half, as may be expeaed, is mud in winter and fine duft in fummer, which renders travelling upon It very difagreeable. We were fo fortunate as to obtain apartments at a very fplendid and large houfe, with windows looking down upon the end of the lake, called Fort William Henry Hotel. There are feveral fmaller hotels in Caldwell, the place being very much frequented on account of its perfe6l feclufion and remotenefs from the bufy hum of the city or the found of the railway whiftle Our hotel had been quite full all fummer. but as "the feafon" at the •Sept. II. time of our vifit was drawing to a clofe, the guefts were becoming 22 SOUVENIR OK A TOUR IN • ;t » I Sept. II. Icfs numerous. After our arrival at Caldwell, and before taking tea, we enjoyed a ftroU through the grounds of the hotel, and alfo went as far as the village. It appears that during the winter feafon at Cald- well the h(;tels and larger portion of the houfes are fluit up, fimilar to the pra6lice at Chamounix and one or two places in Switzerland. After enjoying a refrefliing cup of tea, we promenaded the balcony of our hotel, liflcning to the ftrains of a band of mufic playing at the edge of the lake. A lighted fteaniboat was approaching, which attracted great attention ; it was crowded with paffengers, many of whom landed here, and a cannon was fired in order that we might all hear the fplendid echo, which, to ufe a homely phrafe, is one of the " ferlies " of the place. After a while the band adjourned to the large drawing-room of the houfe, again for an hour or two to dif- courfe eloquent mufic. I waited for fome time in the expe6lation that the younger members of the company would organize a fet of quadrilles or a waltz or two. Rut no ! high propriety was the order of the night ; fo I proceeded to my bedroom, and finifhed my Diary up to this date. The weather fince we left New York has been mofl enjoyable. Sept. 12. Breakfafled fo early as feven o'clock this morning, in order to be in time for the "Minnichaha" fteaniboat to Ticonderoga. The following little incident may be mentioned here, by way of giving variety to thefe notes. From the careleffnefs of the porters engaged in conveying our baggage to the fteamboat, my hat-box fell off the cart and was crudied under a wheel, completely deftroying my black hat. Going back at once to the hotel, I related what had occur- red, and demanded damages for the lofs, to which I thought myfelf quite entitled, feeing that I was charged a quarter of a dollar for the conveyance of each article to the boat. Five dollars were afked by me, and after a few minutes fpent in arguing the cafe, I was paid, and managed to reach the fteamboat in time. Lake George is a very pretty flieet of clear water, and by fome writers has been favourably compared with the lakes of Switzerland ; it is dotted with lovely little wooded iflands, there being as many as 300 altogether, and for the angler it contains fine trout and well-flavoured bafs. I may men- THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. 23 tion, that in failing down Lake George two or three fmall places are Sept. 12. vifitcd in order to land and receive paffengers. The fail down Lake Cham[)lain from wlvjrc we joined the fteamboat " United States," which had come from Whitehall (about 28 miles farther up the lake) to our dellination at Rouffe's Point, is very enjoyable, although the fcencry is not equal to that of Lake George. The towns touched at on Lake Champlain are of confiderable importance : of thefe I may note Crown Point, Port Henry, Burlington, and Plattlbury. After a fail of about 30 miles, we landed at our dcflination, or rather at a place diftant about four miles from it. '..c were conveyed to Ticon- dcroga proper in carriages, each of which was drawn by four horfes. Of courfc there is again a large hotel, where we find dinner ready for the paffengers. The road from the place at which we debarked to the hotel is fomething awful — the worfl: I have yet experienced ; fo bad that I am quite aftoniflied none of the vehicles have broken down. The proprie^^or of the carriage?, who happened to be along with us, faid he was willing to bet that it was the worft road in the whole United States : " If any one will tell me, fir, where there is a worfe road, I will go a darned long way to fee it, I will," faid he. About a quarter paft one o'clock, after an early dinner, we left Ticonderoga for Rouffe's Point, a diftance of 100 miles, where we are to get the railway train for Montreal, a farther diftance of 45 miles. We arrived at Rouffe's Point about nine o'clock, and, this being the boundary between the United States and Canada, we had to fubmit to an examination of our luggage by the Revenue officers. After the fuffy ceremony of looking over our baggage had ter- minated we flarted by train on the Grand Trunk Railway of Canada for Montreal, where we arrived at midnight. We paffed, of courfe, over the River St Lawrence by means of the celebrated Vi6loria Railway Bridge. Having obtained our baggage, we drove off at once to the St Lawrence Hall Hotel, where w^ fecured rooms. On looking over the " Arrival Lift " — a book kept at every hotel, and where every new guefl: fo foon as he arrives is required to wntr his name — we found that nearly all the ladies and gentlemen from Glaf- •n J4 SUUVEXIK OK A TUUK IN Sept. 12. gow who came over in the "Riiffia" were cither at prefent in the hotel or had been within the hilt two days. Sept. 13. I lad a call from Mr Allan G. Sheriff (fon of Mr George Sheriff of Glafgow), offering his fervices to (hew me the notable places of the city of Montreal. After converfing with him for fome time, and thanking him for his kind offer, which I found I could not accept, I went to the bank here to exchange two of my circular notes, receiving for my ^40 llerling lyi dollars "/"j cents. Afterwards I called on Meffrs S. W. Beard & Co., when Mr Ik-ard kindly came out along with me and flicw^d me the Montreal Docks and a canal running up alongfide the River St Lawrence, which enables fteamboats, barges, and " lumber" {i.e., timber) boats to avoid the rapids m failing up to or coming down from the fmooth waters of the river. Afterwards drove out with Mr Beard in his buggy (a carriage fo called) to his dwelling- houfe, fituated on the viouutain beliind Montreal, and had the pleafure of being introduced to Mrs Beard. The mountain, it may be ex- plained, is a local name for the high grounds on which moft of the upper claffcs here have their houfes. Walked over Mr Beard's grounds, about eleven acres in extent, and drank a glafs of champagne, alfo ate fome fruit, the nc6larines and peaches being grown in his own garden. Before leaving, Mrs Beard prefented me with a fine bouquet of flowers, which upon my arrival at the hotel I fent up to Mrs Arthur's room with compliments. After dinner, which was ferved at half-paft five o'clock, I walked down with my travelling companions to the Merchants' Exchange to read the ncwfpapers, but that eftablifliment was unfortunately fliut. I had, however, been there myfelf during the day, and read the firft Scotch newfpa; ers I had feen fincc leaving home — namely, the Scotfman and North BritiJJi Daily Mail of dates 30th and 3 1 ft Auguft. Immediately after dinner, I had the gratifica- tion of receiving a letter from Mrs Watfon ; it was dated 29th Auguft, and conveyed the plcafing intelligence that all were well at home. As the poft box was to clofe in a fliort time, I at once wrote home, acknowledging my wife's epiftle. At nine o'clock I finifli writing this, and am off to bed. N.B. — This is the firft wet day we have encountered fince leaving New York. TKK I'NITl I) SIAI IS .\NI» CANADA. 25 Jumped out of bed this inorniiifjf at fix ')'clock, took a cup of coffee, Sept. 14. then off to the railway flation per oninihu.s, where we booked ourfelves for a vina.i,'e named La Chine, about nine mile.s above Montreal, on the ed^fe of the river, our object beini; to l;o on board a ftean;boat to fail down the rapid.s of the St Lawrence. 'I'hefe rai)ids, which you have no doubt read about, are tlie niol^ turbulent of all the rapid.s on that river, and moll expert llcerin^^ is recjuired to avoiil the rifk of beinLj bumped on the rocks, or probablj- (hipwrecked. " Shootin^f the rapids" is quite a plcafurable excitement, and is per- formed under chartjje of an expert pilot, who ^niides the llear.ier with marvellous dexterity throut.,di the intricate channels, keepini; cool and collected all the time, doubtlefs (pu'te aware of the terrible refponfi- bility with which he is inverted : one falfe move, and the llcamer mi<;ht be daflied to pieces in a few brief moments! Three or four men arc always required at the wheel to keep the \effel ftead)-. I need not fay that wc were fo fortunate as to " flioot the rapids " in fafety. and, paffin.c,^ under the Victoria Tubular J5rid^L,^e, arrived once a.i;ain at Montreal to brcakfaft, after which we hired a carria^^e to drive up the mountain, and take us alfo to the other fii^hts of Montreal. In the courfo of our little tour wc paffed a number of fine private dwelling houfes, among others two belonging to the Brothers Allan, principal owners of the line of fteamlliips which fail between Liver- pool, Glafgow, and Montreal. Vifited, among other places, the Kpifcopal Church, which contains feats for one thoufand pcrfons, alfo the Jefuit Cathedral, Notre Dame, and the Water Works. I may ftate that the view from the mountain of the city of Montreal, the river and its huge bridge, and the fccnery beyond, is varied and pi6lurefque, embracing a vaft extent of country— from the city at its foot, with its buildings and fpires, the ifland of St Helen briftling with cannon, to the far diftant green hills of Vermont. Northward ftretches the Ottawa, and in the eaft and weft flows the mighty St Lawrence. I may jufl: note here, as a fample of how bufinefs is done now-a-days, that before going away for our drive, I had occafion to telegraph to my office in Glafgow the following meffage— " With Beard, wants coal immediately— advife Glencairn ;" and for telegraphing thefe feven words I paid twelve dol- lars, or £2, 8s. fterling. • 26 '50UVENIR OF A TOUR IN Sept. 14. Montreal is a very fine city, containing many fplendid buildings both public and private, and thcfc, fpeaking generally, are built of a native limeftone which very much rcfembles granite. There are only one or two very good ftreets, in which the principal fliops are fituated — viz., St James Street and Notre Dame Street ; my hotel is in the former. The population of the city is now about 130,000 fouls. Montreal is built upon an ifland near the junction of the Rivers Ottawa and St Lawrence, and is conne6led with the mainland by the Vi6loria Bridge, which is a monument of engineering enterprife. Except as regards the timber trade, ?.Iontreal is the chief port through wliich the Dominion maintains its relations with the Old Country. Hav- ing previoufly determined to flart for Quebec after dinner, going by river and rail, and procured tickets " there and back," at feven o'clock we went on board the fteamboat " Montreal," and our fleeping berths being allotted to us, we ftarted on our voyage, the diftance from the one city to the other being 1 50 miles. The fail down the St Lawrence was exceedingly pi6lurefque, the moon being nearly full and the weather fine and bracing. Supper being included in the cofl of our fare, we enjoyed that meal at half-pafl: nine o'clock, and in an hour afterwards we were fnug in our berths. ■xi Sept. 15. We arrived at Quebec — the oldefb and, after Montreal, the moft populous city in Britifli North America — about half-paft feven o'clock in the morning, and at once drove by omnibus to the St Louis Hotel, but that houfe being full of vifitors, we were obliged to fleep at another hotel belonging to the fame proprietor (Mr Ruffell), called the Clarendon ; we took our meals, however, in the St Louis. After a brief ftroU through a portion of the town, we attended public wor- fhip, and hea.d a fermon from the Rev. Dr Cook of the Scotch Pres- byter'-^n Church. About one o'clock we ftarted upon a four hours' drive to Montmorencie and other places of interefl to flrangers, vifiting by the way the Citadel, which has been called the Gib- raltar of the New World. One of the foldiers, about 200 of whom ara in garrifon, conducted us round the forts, from which we obtained a fine view of both the upper and the lower town of Quebec, the River St Lawrence, the Ifle of Orleans, aad the country as far as Mont- THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. 27 morcncie. We had here the pleafure of feeing the Governor General of Canada, Lord Dufiferin, and his lady, walking about for an airing quite fans ccrcmonic. Driving over the Plains of Abraham, we faw the fpot where General Wolfe fell. Outfide the walls— for Quebec is a walled city, and to ftudents full of hiftoric intereft— are the fuburbs of St Roche and St John, which extend along the river St Charles to the Plains of Abraham. On our way to the celebrated falls we paffed through the town of Beauport, wholly— a family or two excepted— occupied by French Canadians ; and I may jufl flate in this place that a large number of the inhabitants of the city of Quebec, as well as many of the people in the neighbouring diftrias, fpeak the French language, although it is more than a century now fince the pro.ince was taken from the French, to whom it formerly belonged, and with whom it was a pet colony. On arriving at Montmorencie we were conduced by a boy, through pleafant and pifturefque grounds, to fee the celebrated falls, at a charge of a quarter dollar each. We were greatly pleafed with the figiit : the water of the River St Charles being in pretty full volume, the water- fall, which is of great height— not lefs than 250 feet— was well worth feeing, the ftream falling in an unbroken mafs of great breadth till halfway down, when it daflies againft an enormous rock and fpa.-kles into foam. In winter the water freezes and the fcene changes : the fall tl en forms a huge cone of ice 100 feet high, which is annually the fcene of great merriment, as tho .fands of people, bent on holi- day fports, flock to fee the wondrous fight. The River St Charles falls into the St Lawrence at this place. On our way back from Montmorencie we came through the lower part of Quebec, which very much refembles the town of Dieppe and other French towns. Many of the buildings are old world like, and feemed to be in a tumble-down fort of condition ; while not a L\v of them have piazzas and walks round them, which, when firft erefted, would doubtlefs remind their proprietors of fome fweet fpot in their native land which they might never fee again. In the lower part of Quebec are fituated the chief private commercial eftcibliihments, as alfo the .Sept. 15, 28 SOUVENIR OF A TOUR IN Sept. 15. Banks, Exchange, and Poft-Office. On reaching our hotel we took dinner, and about half-pad fix o'clock I called for Mr Andrew Wcbflcr at his dwelling-houfc, but found that, along with his eldeft fon, he had gone to church. I faw Mrs Webfter, however, and one or two members of her family. She has nine children living, the youngefl: two being twins, a boy and a girl named Lome and Louife : after a pleafant chat of twenty minutes duration I came away, hav- ing arranged to meet Mr Webfter at the St Louis Hotel to-morrow morning. Hearing many people fpeak highly of the fervice of the Englifli Church, I went there in the evening and heard an excellent fermon, then home to bed. Weather fine, but cold. Sept. 16, ]\Ir Webfter called after breakfaft, and we went out along with him to view the city, firil vifiting the French Cathedral, where a funeral fervice was being condu6led : the fifter of one of the Members of Parliament for Quebec being about to be buried. Afterwards called at an extcnfive fliop along with Mr Webfter and purcliafcd a large and handfome dark-brown bear-flvin, fuitable for a carriage rug, the price of which was 40 dollars, equal to £8 fterling of Britifli money. Afterwards walked down to the lower part of the town by way of "Break-neck Scair," and infpe6led a houfe that had fallen on Satur- day, but fortunately without caufing any lofs of life. We then called at Mr Webfler's place of bufinefs, or " ftore," as fuch places are ufually called in America and Canada, and were introduced to his partner, Mr Dinning, who was very glad to fee us, and rccolle6led being at Glencairn about eight years ago, along with Mr Robert Webfter : being myfelf away from home at the time, he faw Mrs Wat- fon. Mr Dinning condu6led us to the wharves and ftorehoufes which his firm (Dinning & Webfter) have rented from the Town Commis- fioners : the firm, I am glad to think, appears to be a thriving one, doing a large bufinefs. At twelve o'clock we fat down to a champagne luncheon provided by our friends, and at one o'clock we croffed by a ferry boat to Point Levi, where we took the train to Montreal. On our way there we halted at various ftations : Methott's Mills, Artha- balka, Danville, Richmond (where we partook of tea), St Lambert, and others. We reached IMontreal about ten o'clock in the evening, )l THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. 29 and of courfc went again to the St Lawrence Hall Hotel, where I Sept. i6. received a cable telegram from IVIr McLurc, my calhier in Glafgow, which had been forwarded to me from New York. Up this morning at fix o'clock, and drove to the railway flation, Sept. 17. where we took ticket.s by rail and lleamboat for Ottawa. At La Chine, about nine miles from Montreal, where we had been on Saturday, we went on board the "Prince of Wales" Ik-amboat, which conveyed us up the St Lawrence and River Ottawa as far as Carillon, where we again took the train, thus avoiding the fliallows and rapids of the River Ottawa. At the terminus of the railway, at a place called Grenville, we again boarded a fteam- veffel, the "Viaoria," which takes us right on to Ottaw^i, where we expea to arrive to-night at about half-pait fix o'clock. We break- fafted this morning on board the " Prince of Wales," and (four o'clock I'.M.) we have juft finiflied dinner on board the " Vifloria." We are enjoying this day's fail very much, the weather being delightful— neither too hot nor too cold. ]\Iet on board Air David Campbell, late of Glafgow, whofe father was at one time cafiiier to Mr Dixon, of Gova". Iron Works. He was accompanied by his wife and nephew, and the party were going on a pleafure cxcurfion to Ottawa. There were alfo on board two Members of the Canadian Parliament— the Hon. John Hamilton and the Hon. Mr Cameron— likewife Mr Ogilvie, of Mont- real, a friend of Mr Hendrie's, along with his fon, who were going to their fliooting quarters. All along our route, both from Oueb^ec to INIontreal and from that city as far as we hr.>e yet come, large trads of plantation had been on fire ; fuch fires, it feems. are frequent in tlie Canadian forefts, and as they cannot eafily be cxtinguiflied, many thoufands of acres of trees are confequently burned down. Young trees, however, foon feed thcmfelves, and replace thofe which are cont fumed. The accommodation on board the fteamboats by which I have been travelling has been throughout excellent. A gentleman on board informs me that it will be nearly eight o'clock to^'-night Jre we arrive at Ottawa, as our fleamboat has been lofing time. On our arrival at Ottawa laft night, about eight o'clock, we drove Sept. 18. 30 SOUVENIR OF A TOUR IN Sept. i8. by omnibus to the principal hotel, called the " Ruffell Houfe," where we obtained apartments. After partaking of breakfafl in the morn- ing, we took a flroll through a portion of the city, the two principal thoroughfares of which are called Sparks and Rideau Streets. We vifited the two Houfes of Parliament : the Upper Houfe is compofed of about fcventy members, and the Lower Houfe of two hundred members. The public departments of the Dominion have their offices in thefe buildings, which are built in three feparate ranges overlooking the Ottawa River, and have a commanding appearance : they are juft being finiflied, and are all built of (lone and marble, the latter material being obtained from quarries in the neighbourhood. We next vifited the Falls of the Ottawa at Chaudiere. Thefe falls are very fine, but not equal in refpe6l of height to thofe we faw at Montmorencie, although the volume of water is greater, as nearly the whole of the river, which is much larger than the St Charles, flows over the pre- cipice. A portion of the flream a little way above the falls is dam- med, fo as to fupply various large faw-mills, two or three of which we vifited : that belonging to Meffrs Parley & Parry is one of the fineft faw-mills in Ottawa, the chief feat of the lumber trade in Canada. All dealers in wood or timber in this country are defignated lumber merchants. The faw-mills, which are ere6led on each fide of the river, are wholly driven by water, a power which is greatly utilized in America and Canada. Thefe mills fupply all parts of the country with wood ready cut up for houfe-building purpofes, &c., befides exporting to other countries, via Montreal and Quebec, large quantities of cut timber. The city of Ottawa is yet in a very primi- tive ft:ate ; but, having been made the capital city of the Canadian Dominion, it will in all probability improve both in fize and appear- ance in the courfe of a very few years. Rapidity of progrefs is the order of the day in the New World ; indeed, towns feem to fpring up and rife into importance with magical celerity. Such is the fpirit of enterprife abroad in this country, that the hamlet of to-day becomes the town of to-morrow, and the city of a year later ! The annual Agricultural Show being open at the time of our vifit, we went to fee it. The exhibition was intercfling, although, when compared to fuch fliows at home, not very grand ; but it is improving and extending THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. 31 Sept. 18. year by year. All kinds of agricultural material both for cultivation and amenity were exhibited— horfes, cattle, flieep, pigs, dog.s, and poultry, as well as carriages, fewing machines, and various agricul- tural implements. Several Scotchmen who had "exhibits" on the ground were very glad to fee us, and fliewed us every attention. We found that fome of the Glafgow friends who came over with us in the "Ruffia" had been here three days ago— viz., Meffrs Moffat, M'Kwen, Galbraith, and the two Kidftons ; and to-day Mr and Mrs Arthur and Mr Stott have arrived at this hotel. Off to bed at nine P.M., as we require to be up to-morrow morning at fix o'clock. After taking an early brcakfaft, we ftarted at 7.30 for Prefcott, Sept. 19. intending to take the fteamboat there at half-paft nine o'clock to Kingfton, for the purpofe of failing through the thoufand ifles of the St Lawrence, and at Kingfton we propofed taking the train to Toronto, which would be paffing about one o'clock to-morrow morning (Fri- day). Upon our arrival at Prefcott we found that the fteamboat, which had to come from Montreal, was likely to be three or four hours behind time, and, as the day was rather wet, we fixed upon taking a train direft from Prefcott to Toronto, which we did about half-paft one o'clock. On our way from Prefcott we faw the St Lawrence on our left, and near Kingfton we obferved feveral of the piaurcfque ifles which form the great group fo much admired by travellers. We touched at various towns, among others Brookville, Landfdowne, Kingfton, Belleville, Cobourg, Port Hope, and Whitby. The country along the north fliore of Lake Ontario from Prefcott to Toronto is very fertile, and generally well cleared of the original plantations. The houfes along the routes we have been travelling, it is noticeable, are nearly all built of wood, and both in the villages and in the interior of the country this material, fo ufeful and fo near at hand, is conftantly utilized, not only to ereft the log hut of the newly-arrived emigrant, but alfo the more elegant frame houfe of the well-to-do fettler who' having overcome his early difficulties, is now branching into the luxury of a more elegant home. Having, on our arrival at Toronto this morning, taken apartments Sept. 20. f 32 •'""''''■■^■"<"I-AT„UK,.V "-city 1; t'°"«^- «"--t. uLicI , ".i T^'"'"' '" *-" along '"•o o'cio ;:,;;"'" ",-■ '°u „, a„ci , ,^^ : ^>' "-■ "">™ >vo wont - :;:*:: :^:t, ^^'^ "--tit:^ r;:; y^- ^^;:i;2 Toronto Ti; *"""'"' "f 'he valu ""'"-■'-^'-■'' P"" "f ">o Groat Wo^n L T "^' '°-"P-"''-^~^l'' uTr TT"'"' way of r,,„ , ' "'' Toronto, Grov ft n ^'^"'' Trunk, andMr^n '^°""n'on for raihvav . "'° "'"^1 b"ild.n-of « ' " ci°:rCiV''^'-^'" "-"^a ."r rn,ei™"-^ "■^'^*" 'fe Quoon'. How and"^'"'" ''''"'■ A. four ovL, r™" "'''■""' "-e proprietor of til ,,""^; "'^ ''^^'^ »-'^riTllf r/T"'"'' '° f"-- a couple of r, ' '"^^ "'"> «hom „„ 1»J^ '*"" °''*' Quoon's Pari- H f '" ""= """try vVo ""^"""^ '° ''"^'^ -■"■ 'roe A ;7f' "'>-'. ".ore a^e f v^alTf' ''" '° "- *<= Toronto „ ""■' <^™'re of the „ro!^n i ^ '' '"'"''' "'aded of fr- fcrvcd, or, as they are called throughout America, " cann'd " fruits of all kinds, is increafing amazingly. At Tonananda Station wc croffed the Erie Canal, wliich I had formerly feen at Albany and Troy. This canal extends from Albany to Buffalo at the caftern end of Lake Erie, a diftance of upwards of three hundred miles, and the chief traffic upon it during the navigation feafon (it is, of courfe, frozen over in the winter) is in grain, lumber, and other produce brought from the Wefi:- ern States to the Atlantic fcaboard by way of the Hudfon River from Albany to New York. There are two dire6l lines of railway from Buffalo to New York— viz., the Erie and the New York Central, and yet a third is now in progrefs to run along the north fliorc of the Hudfon River, but it is thought that even when this new railway is completed, the three lines will not be fufficient to convey the rapidly increafing produce of the weft. On our arrival at Buffalo we proceeded on foot along Main Street, making one or two purchafes by the way, to the Tifft Houfe Hotel. Buffalo is a large and populous city, being the third town in point of fize in the State of New York, and contains 118,000 inhabitants. It is fituated at the mouth of Buff'alo Creek, at the head of the Niagara River, at the eaftern end of Lake Erie. The harbour is a fine one, and the city has a water frontage extending five miles in length, partly on the river and partly on the lake. It is a very bufy city Buffalo, as its fituation enables it to do a Sept. 23. "^-^J"l" 3^ SOL'VKNIR nl' A TorR IN Sept. 23. large trade in the lake-borne commerce, nearly three-fourths of which mud: pafs through in going between the ICalT: and the great North Weft. The buildings in the city arc well proportioned ; the ftreets wide and ftraight, and, as ufual in nioft American cities, they are laid out at right angles. There are numerous public buildings and libraries in Buffalo, and more than feventy churches. When I ftate that the popu- lation of the city was increafed in the ten years from i860 to 1.S70 by 37,000 perfons, it will give you feme idea of the vaft rate at which the United States of America are progrcffing. As dinner was not ferved till one o'clock, we ftroUed out again to look about us. At two o'clock we took a carriage for an hour's drive, paffing along Delaware Avenue, where we faw many ftylifli private houfes, built chiefly of brick or ftone ; returning by the eaftern end of Main Street and along Swan Street, we reached the railway depot at 3 P.M., going by way of Sufpenfion Bridge (Niagara Falls), per Great Weftern Railway of Canada, to St Cathe- rine's, where I write this, in the Welland Houfe Hotel. In croffmg the Sufpenfion Bridge we were gratified with another fine but diftant view of all the falls. As the train paffes over the river very flowly, one has time to enjoy the fcenery from the platform at the end of the car. Seeing the great falls above and the boiling rapids below the bridge, is certainly a wonderfully impreffivc fight. At Thorald Station, nine miles below Sufpenfion Bridge, we croffed the Welland Canal, which forms another link between the weftern great lakes, via Lake Ontario, by which the ever increafing produce of the weftern United States is alfo tranfported, by Canadian waters, to Quebec. The weftern great lakes referred to are Lake Superior, Lake Michigan, and Lake Huron, which is conne6led with Lake Michigan by a canal called Sault-fte- Marie. Lake Huron empties into Lake St Clair, the latter into the Detroit River flowing into Lake Erie, the latter again, as has been explained, by the Niagara River over the falls into Lake Ontario. Shortly after arriving at the hotel here, I had a nice tepid fait water bath — the fait water being fupplied by a natural fpring 270 feet under the furface. I was attended by a nigger called Henry, alias the " Do6lor," thoroughly up to his bufinefs, and who "kneaded" me and bathed me to perfe6lion. He faid I was altogether in fine condition, only I would perhaps be all the better of taking a ftave out of Till' VNITKI) STATKS ANM) CANADA. n my bicker! Who could have cxpcacd to hear a Scotch fayinj,' like Sept. 23. that from a nit^^ger? We were all very much pleafecl with the day's cxcurfion, the pleafures of which were j;reatly enhanced by fine weather. Retired to bed about nine o'clock. FROM HAMILTON TO LONDON. Ik'fore leaving St Cathcrinc'.s, I mufl pay it the compliment of faying that it is a very pretty town — not large, but with fine drives around it, in a nicely wooded countrj-. Miffed feeing Vlx and Mrs Arthur: they had been here during the day, but had left before our arrival. Left St Catherine's at half-pall {c\c\\ for Hamilton, where I arrived about nine o'clock. We halted at Grimfhy by the way, where I had a few minutes' chat with Mr Orr's father, who is ftation agent there : and at Hamilton Mr W. Orr parted with us to proceed to Toronto. Met Mr William K. Muir, general fuperintend- ent of the Great Weftern Railway of Canada, vdio aflced Mrs Orr, her two children, and myfelf to meet him at his houfe at one o'clock, as Mrs Muir was expeaing us to dine and fpend the day. Proceeded to the Royal Hotel, in James Street, where I fecured apartments for the night : but this was only accomplifhed after fomc difficulty, the town being crowded with people from all parts of the country, who had come in to fee an exhibition of horfes, cattle, pigs, poultry, fruit, and agricultural implements, as well as all kinds of cloths, furs, few- ing machines, &c. Dined with Mrs Muir, and after dinner drove along fome of the principal flreets, fuch as King Street and James Street, in the firft of which are fituated all the principal fiiops. We afterwards proceeded to the Exhibition grounds, where what is called the " Cryftal Palace " is fituated, in the centre of a large park. This Exhibition or Agricultural Show is open to the whole province of Ontario, and is held "time about" in four towns— namely, Hamil- ton, London, Ottawa, and Montreal ; but I may mention that thefe towns have an annual fhow of their own in addition. The Cryftal Sept. 24. ■-.4 3« SOUVENIR ol' A ruL'K IN Sept. 24 I'alacc is not a lartjc cilificc, but it is very fubrtantiall)- built, and on tliis occafion contained tiie fnieft fliow of fruit that I ever remember to have feen either in Great liritain or on the Continent. It confirted cliiefly of apples, pears, peaches, oi)en-air Ljrown melons, and other fruits. The exhibition of fewinj; machines, workmen's tools, manufactures of \arious kinds in leather, cloth, and other fabrics, was alfo very ^ood. I paid fome attention to the cjuick-trotting horfes which were exhibited in pairs in a light machine, and driven round a large circular fpacc about 250 yards in diameter, the fpeed of fome of the animals being remarkable. The fliow of .^Vyrfliire cows was alfo very good ; indeed, confidering that that particular breed has been imported, it was remarkable. There was an immenfe fliow of pigs, far furpaffing any fliow of the kind I ever witneffed before, but, having feen this I-^xhi- bition, I can eafdy underftand where the long trains of live pigs, fent to the r^aft. New York, 8cc., come from. The farmers here prefer to feed pigs on Indian corn and other grain, becaufe they make moft profit by doing fo. I may mention that we faw the Hon. Ifaac Buchanan, and his wife, a filter of Mr Jarvic of Glafgow, in the fhow grounds. Drove back to Mrs Muir's, and drank tea along with Mr Muir and their children. Spent the evening with them until about nine o'clock, after which home to our hotel to bed. isept. 2^. A wet morning ! We therefore were not in a hurry to leave our hotel, where we had a call from Mr Muir and Mr Steele, a fliipbuilder of Ayr, who has come to Canada on a vifit to fome of his relatives. Parted with them, and then called on Mr Stanbury, whom I found (land- ing at the door of his warehoufe. Next called on Mr Leggat, of Wood & Leggat, who have an ironmongery ftore, and condu6l a very large bufinefs. Mr Leggat shewed me through the premifcs, and mentioned that their flock of ironmongery, tools, fteel, and ftores of various kinds, was worth, at Icaft, ;C6o,ooo sterling. Their trade is chiefly wholefale — the retail trade being of little importance. Called on Mr George Martin, an old clerk of mine, who is now bookkeeper in the dry goods ftore of M'Lellan & Co., 53 King Street, Weft. At the bank to-day I was charged 8 per cent, for difcounting my circular notes — viz., four dol- lars for each .;£^20 caflied. After making another call on Mrs Muir to fay rill': UMTKI) STATES AND ( ANADA. 39 good-bye, and to tliank her for iiuich attention and kindnefs, we came Sept. 23. back to our liotel, fettled our bill, and departed to the railway depot. I am much pleafed with Hamilton ; it is a very nice town indeed : the llreets are wide, althouj^h not well kept in the centre, and, as ufual in all the Canadian towns I have vifited, the fideways are laid with wooden planks, fometimes laid acrofs, and at other times lengthways, which mull add to the general danger in the cafe of large fires. It may be mentioned that a principal feature in fome of the Itreets is the appear- ance of fingle and in fome inllances double rows of trees on each Ikle. We were detained at the depot a couple of hours, owing to an accident to a train, caufed by the breaking of an axle, but at length, all being made right, I parted with Mrs Orr and her children, who were going home, and then mounted the cars of my own train, which was to carry me to London. Having felected a parlour car, I found that dinner might be obtained in tlir hotel car adjoining, and, accordingly, I made one of the party of about a dozen who were to dine, and a moft excellent meal we had, confifting of fine tender chickens, juicy chops, and potato chips, finilhed ofif with a cup of coffee, the charge for all I had being l dollar 15 cents, which is equal to 4s. lod. of ICnglilh money. Being thus able to fecure a hot dinner, cooked in a railway train going at the rate of 30 miles an hour, was a novelty to me and fome of the other travellers. When may we expect to have fuch a novelty in the ride betvveen Hamilton and London in Britr.in as I experienced between Hamilton and London in America .' On our way we paffed various towns, and, among others, a very picSlurefquc one called Dundas, Harrifburg, where there is a jun6lion for trains proceeding to South- ampton on Lake Huron, Paris, and Woodftock. From Hamilton to London the country is pretty well cultivated, the old plantations moftly cleared away, and, generally fpeaking, as far as the eye can reach, the appearance of the land, as feen from the train, is very much like the "Old Country," as England and Scotland are ufually called here. There arc fine orchards near Dundas and Paris, and the general fcene looks attra6live to the fettler, and for fettlers (immigrants) of all kinds there is abundance of fpace in the Dominion of Canada, where thou- fands and thoufands of acres afford room for the induftrious hufband- man and mechanic. The train arrived at London about half-paft [il 40 SOUVENIR UV A TOUR IX Sept 25. eight o'clock, and I was received by Mr John Walker, who had been .vaiting for me, and who infifled on carrying me off to his own houfe, and not allowing me to proceed lo the Tccumflie Hotel, as was my intention. I met at his houfe Sheriff Munro and another young gentleman, a German ; remained chatting with Mrs Walker, who had been to a dinner party, and the others till about eleven o'clock, when I went to bed. Sept. 26. Up betimes this morning in order to finifli and fend off a letter to my wife and the dear ones at home, this being the day for the defpatch of the mail via Quebec. Having finiflied my letter and enclofed in it a portion of my Diary, I went to breakfaft, wh'ch was arranged for nine o'clock. Afterwards I drove with Mr Walker, in his open machine with pair of horfes, to explore the town and neighbourhood, as alfo to vifit his oil works, which are very extenfive, producing 2400 barrels of refined oil weekly — a quantity which is equal to fully 100,000 gallons. Sulphuric acid is alfo produced at thefe works, likewife vitriol and fuperphofphate from bones, as well as a mineral called "appatite." After driving through the principal ftrcets of the town, Richmond Street and North Street, and feeing two building lots Mr Walker had recently bought, one of 115 acres and the other of 72 acres, I took the train at one o'clock for Detroit. London is a very nice town, v/ith the ufual double and fingle rows of trees along each fide of the refidcntial ftrcets, the population being about 20,000. TO CHICAGO BY WAY OF DETROIT. Left at one o'clock by train for Detroit, and on the way we paffed feveral towns, among others Appin, Glencoc, and Bothwell. Saw Lake St Clair on the right, witli a few fliips moving about on its waters. This lake is not nearly fo large as fome of the others I have mentioned, and empties, by means of Detroit River, into Lake Erie. A»"rived at THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. 41 Windfor, a town oppofite to Detroit, and feparated from it by the river, and as Detroit (Michigan) is a portion of the United States, our bag- gage required to be fubmitted to the examination of the authorities. Having croffed the river by a ftcam ferry boat to Detroit, on arrival there I hired a carriage fo as to view the place, and have a drive through the principal ftreets and avenues of the town— the Wooded Avenue, Fourth Street, is:c. Detroit is a fplcndid town, and, I think, not even excepting Montreal, the fincft I have yet feen on this continent — New York, of courfe, excepted. Detroit has been fancifully named " The City of the Straits," and is one of the oldeft towns in America, having been founded by the French as a miffionary ftation in 1670. It is interefting to know that Detroit has been planned in a peculiar way, having been laid out originahy as a circle, with avenues radiating from a common centre ; and there are a number of little triangular parks which are very ornamental to th(; city, which is laid out along- fide the river for a length of about three miles, and looked to me to be more a refidential city than a buiinefs place. The town has a great many fine fchools, and an admirable fyllcm of education. The City Hall is a fplendid fi:ru6lurc, being built in the centre of a very large fpace of gro"- ', not exa£lly a fquare, into which feveral ftreets, feven in all, I thin.;, uebourh. In this block of ground a monument has been ere6led in commemoration of the late war, and on the top of the ftruc- ture, which is about 50 feet high, a ftatue of Liberty has been placed, and underneath, at equal diflanccs round the monument, are other four allegorical figures. The population of Detroit is upwards of 100,000 perfons. Vifited an hotel and partook of fupper, and, having a couple of hours to fpnrc, brought up this Diary while waiting for the train due at 9.40 I'M. to Chicago, a city which I am anxious to fee, and at which I expe6l to arrive at eight o'clock to- morrow morning. I have engaged a berth in a fleeping car, and hope to have a trial of that way of travelling to-night. It appears that the train from the eaft is about an hour late, fo, writing in the waiting- room, I may add a line or two to this record. Two fleeping draw- ing-room cars having been put on at Detroit Station for Chicago, I got the berth I had afl CAN' \I».\. 53 FROM ST LOUIS TO THE MAMMOTH CAVE OK KENTUCKY. Left Eafl St Louis at 4.30, and after touchinff at various ftations, <'ct. t,. fuch as BcllvillL', Aflilcy, and Wabadi, we arrived at lu-aiifville, a town of 34,000 inhabitants, at midnight, and proceeded dire6l to the St Cloud Hotel. The country extending from St Louis to Evanfville is highly cultivated ; fplendid crops of Indian corn and wheat were noticeable on the route, alAj patches of tobacco and vineyards. I obferved as well feveral fmall coal pits by the fide of the railway, and heavy mules at work all along, and alfo noted at feveral places that large numbers of fwinc were allowed to run about untended, a(5ling as fcavengers, and all marked in fome way to enable their owners to know them. Notwithftanding the advanced period of the feafon, the mofquitoes arc flill exceedingly troublefome, and are the caufe of all the beds being furrounded with prote6ling curtains. I have nothing very particular to fay about Evanfville, except that it contains fomc fine iron buildings, and, of courfe, the ufual ftrect cars arc conllantly running to and fro. It is 188 miles diftant from Cairo, a port on the Miffiffippi, and 200 miles from Weft Port, a town in Kentucky up the river on the way to Cincinnati, Pittlburg, and other places. We left Evanfville to-day about half-paft two o'clock by fleam- Oct. 4. boat on the River Ohio for Owenfburg, a town fituated about fifty miles un the river. We enjoyed this fail exceedingly, the day being hot, but pleafant enough on the water and under fliadc. At Evans- ville to-day the thermometer at five o'clock in the morning and in the (hade marked 65°, at twelve noon it was 79°, and for feveral days part: the readings have been very fimilar. We paffed the towns and river landings of Newburg, Scuffleton, and Enterprizc, after which we reached Owenfburg. The navigation of the Ohio is alfo very difficult, on ac- count of the (liallownefs of the water. Our fhcamer was a very fmall boat of 200 tons burthen, driven by a pair of 12-inch cylinder engines, drawing only 16 inches of water, and had only one paddle-wheel, placed at the ftern of the boat, which dipped about 12 inches into the i J 54 SOUVENIR OF A TOUR IN Oct. •. river ! A conftant " heaving of the lead " is kept up in thcfe fteam- boats, and every nov and then may be heard the monotonous cry of " three feet fcant " or " three feet large," according to the depth of the water. The River Ohio divides the States of Indiana and Kentucky along the part.s \vc were failing. About nine o'clock we arrived at our dcflination, and found accommodation at the Planters' Hotel. We remained for one night at Owenfburg, which contains a population of 10,000 perfons. There is fome fine land in the neighbourhood. Oct. 5. We left by train this forenoon at 1 1.20 for Stroud City, proceeding by Owenfljurg and Ruffelville Railway, and from thence (it is a junc- tion), per Paducah and Elizabethtown Railway, to Rockport Station, at which we arrived about two o'clock P.M. On our way from Owens- burg to Stroud City we croffed Green River (a navigable ftream) feeing by the way a great many tobacco plantations and tobacco drying-houfes, as alfo large fields of corn. This branch line of railway having been only lately "built," as the Americans and Canadians term it, the trees cut down in the large plantations (the country being nearly all in tim- ber) arc Iving ufclefs on both fides of the line, and appear not to be of ufe, even for firewood ; it does not pay, in fa6l, to cut them up, as in this difl:ri6l 100 cubic feet of fawn wood can be purchafed for a dolla ! Dined at Rockport at an hotel near the Green River, where the railway croffes on a fwing bridge, admitting boats to pafs when needful. While here, heard at a public meeting an animated difcuffion by two orators on the all-abforbing topic of the forthcoming Prefiden- tial cle6lion : one fpeaker was in favour of Horace Greeley, whilft the other advocated the claims of General Grant. As may be cx- pe6led, at prefent there is much talk in political circles about the two candidates. At five o'clock we left Rockport in an open waggon drawn by two mules to vifit Mr Alexander Hendrie's farm, which is about fevcn miles diftant ; the road was very rough and the ride unpleafant, being through an immenfe forell:, and occupying fully three hours, during two of which we were in total darknefs, and how we ever managed to get through, twilling along a rough fort of track, I cannot yet underfland. At length we arrived at Mr Hendrie's about half-pafl: eight o'clock, where we experienced a mofl: hearty \ 'h THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. 55 welcome, and, after having flipped, wont to bed, very tired and fore in our bones from the fliaking we had to endure during our rough ride. Oct. 5. After brcakfaft went out, along with Mr Hendrie and two of his fons, to infpe(5l his farm, which is of confiderable extent. He has a fine crop of corn yet to cut. A fmall portion of a field of fugar cane had within the laft two days been cruflied and boiled by his Tons, yielding three barrels of fyrup or molaffes, which we tafted and fiiund excellent : the families here all ufe molaffes at their various meals. 1 examined two or three fmall plots of the tobacco plant growing on the farm, and alfo vifited our friend's tobacco drying-houfc, where the leaves, after being pulled, are dried and prepared for the market. In this trade there are dealers who vifit the various farms and purchafe the tobacco leaves. Saw a fmall quantity of cotton growing on this farm ; but this diftridl, I muft remark, is not a cotton-growing one generally. On the farm there are many fine trees growing — hickory, poplars, fycamore, elms, maple, fugar maple, walnut, black gum, fweet gum, oak, fafparus, and others. During our travels in the courfe of the laft two days we faw fome fine trees ftanding quite dead, and ready to be cut down for ufe as firewood ; this is done by cutting the bark off round the trunk, about three feet from the ground, and generally in one or two years the tree dies ; it is allowed, however, to ftand till convenient to remove it, greatly disfiguring the appearance of the lands. As ufual on all American farms, we found here a large number of pigs, which roam at large through the neighbouring forefts feeding on acorns and other kinds of nuts and plants. Mr Hendrie alfo rears a large flock of geefe, which are regularly plucked every feven weeks to obtain their feather.s, which are ufed for bedding. After being thus plucked, the feathers of the poor birds quickly grow again, thus afibrd- ing another "crop," if I may ufe the word ; and that is the reafon fo many flock.s of geefe are kept throughout Canada and the States. Mr Hendrie has likewife a few fliecp, fome cows, a pair of working bullocks, two or three mules, and a few pairs of horfes. In the garden we faw growing, in the open air, grapes, peaches, apples, and pears, alfo tomatoes and other kitchen vegetables. The farm dwelling-houfe and Oct. 6. 56 SOUVENIR Ot A TOUR IN Oct. 6. outhoufcs arc built of wood, and covered with thin boards cut from the Cyprus tree. Returned after my interefling infpc6lion to the houfe about one o'clock, when we fat down to dinner, about which time it commenced to rain, caufing us to remain in the houfe during the remainder of the day, reading and converfmg under the verandah, which in this hot climate is a neceffary adjun6l of all dwcUing-houfes. During the afternoon one of the neighbouring farmers, a Mr Devenport, called ; in the courfe of converfaticn, which was chiefly about farming, he told us he had fully twenty acres of tobacco growing this feafon. Oct. 7. After brcakfafl:, four horfes and mules being faddled, I fet off, along with the three brothers Hendrie, to vifit a village called " Paradifc," three or four miles diflant, where fome coal and ironftonc mines and blaft furnaces are fituated, the works being called " Airdrie," and belong- ing to a Mr Alexander, proprietor of the eftate of Airdrie Houfe, near the town of Airdrie, in Scotland. They are Handing idle at prefent, and have been fo for ten or eleven years paft. They are fituated alongfide Green River, and are leafed by General Beull, who was a General in the Northern Army during the late war. We called upon him at his houfe in the neighbourhood, and enjoyed a long chat. Returned in the evening, when I was prefented, by Mr A. Hendrie, with fpccimens of various plants growing on his farm, fuch as corn (Indian), cotton, tobacco, caftor oil plant, sugar cane feed, butter beans, pumpkin seed, hickory nuts, and acorn nuts, as alfo a variety of gourds. Oct. 8. Took breakfaft, and, along with our luggage, placed in an open cart drawn by a pair of bullocks (myfelf and one of the Hendries being on horfeback), left for Rockport to catch the two o'clock train for a place called Glafgow Jun6lion, on our way to the Mammoth Cave of Kentucky. After a three hours' ride through the foreft wc came to Rockport, where, having learned that we would have to wait for fully an hour for the train, we dined. Left, by the Elizabethtown and Paducah Railway, at three o'clock. On our way we paffed the village of Hamilton, where there is a fmall colliery working, alfo Beaver- down, Horfe-Hranch, Spring Lake, and Milnwood. Arrived at 7.30 THE UXITKD STATK^> AND CANADA, 57 at Elizabcthtown, where there is a junflion, and remained for three hours, taking tea in the village, and about half-pafl ten o'clock we took train, per Louifville, Nafhvillc, and Great Southern Railway, to Glafgow, wiiere we arrived at 12.30, and engaged apartments at Major Proftur's Hotel, adjoining the ftation. Oct. 8. Breakfaftcd this morning at half-pafl fix, and at feven o'clock left by a itage or fpring waggon for the Mammoth Cave, at which, after a rough ride over a very ftony road, we arrived in the courfe of two hours. The country between Glafgow Jun6lion and the Mammoth Cave is the worft we have yet feen ; very bare where there is a clear- ance, and where there are trees they are fbunted and fmall, lots of fcrubwood abounding. After our arrival we drove at once to the hotel, and procuring tickets, as alfo a fuit of over-alls, and a coloured guide to condu6l us, we proceeded to the Mammoth Cave by the fliort route, as it is called, and penetrating into the underground caverns for a diftance of about two miles, we infpe6led the various parts named, fuch as the Cliffs of Kentucky Riv^er, the Chu-ch, Sulphur Vats, Gothic Gallery, Gothic Avenue, Pod Oak Pillar, Regifter- room, Star Chamber, Gothic Chapel, Grand Arch, Water Clock, Coin's Dome, Grand Coffin, which is 40 feet long, and compofed of one block of flone. As you will readily believe, my vifit to thefe caves was a very hurried one, having only a few hours in v/hich to view natural wonders that would require two or three days to fee. I have merely enumerated the names of fome of the fights which I faw, as it would ta a volume to defcribe thern at length. There is the Church, for inflance, a wonderful piece of natural architc6lure ; it is one immenfe apartment, 100 feet in diameter, with a feamlcfs rocky roof 63 feet over head. Then there is a grand pulpit or plat- form, as alfo a fpace for an organ. Divine fervice, I was told, has been more than once performed in this fo-called church. To give you an idea of the fize of the place, I may jufl: note down that the Gothic Avenue is two miles long, that the Audubon Avenue, fo named in honour, I prefume, of the great naturalifl, is one mile in length ; and it is faid that vifitors may, if they choofe, travel for a diflancc of 200 miles in the various avenues and walks of the Manunoth Cave of Kentucky, 1 Oct. 9. Oct. 9. Oct. 10. 5S SOUVr.XTR OF A TOUR IN which is certainly one of the mofl: flriking wonders of the New World. After returning to the Mammoth Cave Hotel, where we dined at three o'clock, we left immediately for Glafgow Junction, taking the train, by Louifville, Nafliville, and Great Southern Railway, for Loui.s- ville, 90 miles diflant, at which place we arrived at twelve o'clock I'.M. FROM LOUISVILLE TO CINCINNATI. On arriving laffc night we went to the Gait Houfe, but found we could not be accommodated, owing to the arrival of an excurfion party of about 500 gentlemen from Alabama, who had been invited by the Railway Company to vifit Louifville and affift at the opening of a new line of railway nv^ning from thence to Montgomery and other towns in Alabama. We thc;refore took apartments at another houfe called "Walker's h^xchange." After breakfaft we went to fee the Louis- ville Expofition, which is held in a large new building ; we infpe6led various kinds of machinery in motion, manufa6lures and goods of every defcription, and tafbcd a portion of a gigantic cheefc weighing 3300 lbs., whi ,ii was being fold on the fpot at the rate of one dollar for each 3 lbs. ] made a note of the dimenfions of this cheefe, and found it to be fix feet in diameter, by two feet eight inches deep. Saw fome good ftatuary, and a very pretty fountain, alfo a fine rockery with furround- ing water. The excurfion party took luncheon at one o'clock, mufic playing all the time. After leaving the Expofition we walked down to view the Ohio River, and to look at a railway bridge 800 feet in length. The navigation of the river is interrupted by what are' called the Ohio Falls, oppofite Louifville. Ships avoid tliefe by ufing a canal having three locks, through which they pafs in going up or down. Louifville is the Chief city of Kentucky, and is moft agreeably fituated as to its topography. The city extends river- wards for about two miles, the courfe of the leading ftrcets following TIIK UMTRl) STATKS AND CAXADA. 59 the great water-way : fomc of thcfc thoroufrhfarcs are excellent, hcing^ wide and well paved, and, for the moft part, fliaded with trees. There are a number of excellent public buildings and ereftions in Louifville, fuch as an Afylum for the Blind, male and female High Schools, a Univer- fity and Medical College, a Mafonic Temple, and other inftitutions. The Hiftorical Society has a good colic '■tion of books, illuftrative of the early hiflory of the State, and there is alfo a mercantile library, con- taining 7000 volumes. As an example of American enterprife, I may juft mention that the little canal— it is only two and a half miles long — which I have alluded to, coft in its conftru6lion about a million dollars. The tobacco warehoufes of this city are quite a fight, Kentucky being, in the produ6lion of this article of commerce, only fecond to Virginia, and in the produce of Indian corn it takes rank as the third beft State. This day, although funny, was very cold in the fliade. Oct. 10. Left Louifville this morning at fix o'clock, per train on the Louis- ville, Cincinnati, and Lexington Railway, for Spring Station. The morning was very cold and frofty, which aftoniflied us not a little. The railway, it is worth mentioning, runs through one of the ftreets of Louifville for about half a mile. On our way we paffcd the ftations of Anchorage, Pewce Valley, Lagrange (which is a jun6lion flation), Jericho, Eminence, Chriflianfborg, and Bagdad, arriving at Frankfort, the capital of the State of Kentucky, and the feat of its Govern- ment, at 9.30. Stopping for a fliort time, we had a view of the State Houfe and Arfenal, alfo of the River Kentucky, on both fides of which the town is built. After leaving Frankfort we only paffed one flation — Deckers — before we arrived, about ten o'clock, at Spring Station. The country from Louifville to this place is well culti- vated ; from the train we faw numerous fine crops of corn. Walked from Spring Station to Mr A. J. Alexander's eflate of Woodburn, in Woodford County, Kentucky, a farm of 3600 acres. Mr Alexander's houfe is about one mile from the ftation ; and finding both him and Mrs Alexander at home, we received a hearty welcome, and drove out in a waggonette to fee his various horfe and cattle breeding eftablifh- ments ; his prefent flock is large, and confifts of — ■ Oct. II. I > Go S(iUVF,xik ti]- A Tour ix Oct. II. 8 1 thoroughbred marcs. 52 trotting do. 5 thoroughbred ftallions. 4 trotting do. 12 2-ycar old colts and fillies. 14 I do. do. 27 trotting foals. 37 thoroughbred foals. 40 ponies with their foals, fome of them of the Shetland breed. 6 odd mares. 30 farm horfes and mules. 308 altogether. Mr Alexander has alfo a fine herd of fliorthorn cattle (60 or 70 in number). He grows excellent crops of corn, wheat, barley, oats, and flax, and has fine accommodation, in the matter of ftables and flieds, for the horfes, at various places on the farm, each under the charge of a zvhitc forcvian, all the other men employed, numbering above feventy, being coloured, nearly the whole of whom had been Mr Alexander's flaves previous to the late war, after which they received their freedom. Mr Alexander and his brothers at one time owned 130 flaves, their value being eflimated at one hundred thoufand dollars. Thefe men, who are now quite free, receive, on an average, from 15 to 18 dollars per month as wages, in addition to their board ; a few coloured women are likewife employed at Woodburn as cooks and houfe fervant.s. The horfes, when in the fields pafluring, are fed on corn given them whole in the cob or pod. After an infpe6lion of the flock and various ftables, we returned to the manfion houfe and dined with Mr and Mrs Alex- ander ; a Mr and Mrs Walker and their daughter, from Chicago, were of the company (Mrs Walker is Mr Alexander's fifter). We were waited upon by coloured fervants, one of whom, with a large broom or loofe brufli, kept off the flies while we were dining. We each received from Mr Alexander three catalogues of his flocks of thoroughbreds, trotting horfes, and cattle, and we were much aftoniflied at the very high prices which he told us he obtained for both horfes and cattle. Before leaving riiF. I'Niri.n states a\d caxada. 61 this intcrcfting place, we examined a machine at work for rafping or thrafliing Indian corn, and made another infpc6lion of fomc live flock in the fields. Our train for Lexington was timed for 6.40, but after our arrival at Spring Station we had to wait till half-pafl ten o'clock before the train came forward, when we got aboard — " All aboard ! all aboard !" being fhouted out in America by the conduflor, inflead of, as with us, " Fake your feats !" and then the train moves off. The rail- way fyftem in fome parts of America, cfpecially in remote and new places, is exceedingly primitive. The lines of rail are generally all finglc lines, and the trains are far from being pun6lual. In fome other rc- fpe£ls the carriages are fuperior to thofe of Great Britain, as in the American railway cars one has room to move about, and there is ufually a platform between the cars where the frefli air and ever-changing fcenery can be enjoyed. There is, generally fpcaking, only one clafs and one price on all American lines of railway ; but, of courfe. when the luxuries of fleeping berths and palace dining cars are required, they have to be paid for as " an extra." In all American and Canadian trains there are ftoves in cold weather, lavatories, and other conveni- ences, fo that ladies and children travel with greater comfort here than they can do in the Old Country. Reached Lexington at twelve o'clock P.M. Oct. U. On our arrival at Lexington lafl night we put up at the Phoenix Hotel, and at half-pafh five o'clock this morning we were roufed for breakfafl, that we might be in time for the train leaving by the Kentucky Central Railway for a 99-miles journey to Cincinnati, a city v/hich is defignated the " Queen City of the Weft," on our way to which the towns and ftations of Paris, Cynthiana, Falmouth, and Benton are paffed. Arrived at Covington, a town and ftation on the oppofite bank of the Ohio River from Cincinnati, where we pro- cured an omnibus to take us acrofs the water, by ferry boat, to the European Hotel. The country on the way from Lexington is finely wooded, the lands being hilly and undulating, but cultivated to the top, and well cleared of che original woods or forefts. We noted every here and there good crops of corn, with orchards occafionally. After reaching Cincinnati, and refrefliing ourfelves with a good wafh, we Oct. 12. 62 SoUVF.XIR or A TOUR IN" Oct. 12. dined, and tlicn hired a carriagje to drive us through the town, when we vifited Clifton I lill and Lincohi Park, where there is a very fine arti- ficial lake, with plenty of fwans and ducks upon it. Davidfon's Water Fountain in bronze is the largcft bronze fountain I can recolle6l of havinf,^ feen ; it is placed in a fquarc in the town. Croffed the river on a fplendid fufpenfion iron bridge belonging to the Ohio and Miffiffippi Railway Conipany : this ftruflurc is cxtenfivc, one of its fpans mcafuring 418 feet clear ; the bridge, a fingle railway track with a carriage drive and footpaths on either fide, flands 100 feet above high water mark. Cincinnati contains a population numbering 250,000. There are large iron works in full fwing, as well as numerous other indus- tries, including great houfes for the curing of pork. I faw many fieam vcffels, barges, and other boats, all fat-bottomed on account of the fliallowncfs of the river. The fteamboats have only one broad paddle, placed at the ftern ; fomc of thcfe run to Pittfi^urg, up the river, and alfo go down the river to Louifville and as far as Cairo, on the Miffiffippi. The city is yearly extending ; at prefent the river fhore is fully three miles long. There are fomc fine ftreets in Cincinnati ; among others, Third, Fourth, Fifth, Sixth, and Seventh Streets, all running parallel to the river, may be particularifed. Off thefe flrects, at right angles, run Vine, Apple, Pear, Plum, Cherry, Walnut, and various others, named after trees and fruits. Cincinnati, although called " the Queen City of the Wefl," is rather a fmoky city, from there being fo many public works in it, and does not therefore appear a defirable place to live in : the water is alfo very inferior ; what was offered us at the hotel was fo muddy that we preferred to drink Baff's London beer at 40 cents per pint (equal to is. 8d. of our money). There are numerous buildings and places worth feeing in Cincinnati. The Merchants' Exchange is a very handfome edifice, and among its other contents has a library of 23,000 volumes. A large obferva*"ory is alfo a feature of the Queen City ; it is in poffeffion of a moft vau;- able telefcope, made at Munich, which coft 10,000 dollars. Wine grapes ufed to be grown largely in the vineyards near the town, but of late, defpite the attention of the patient German cultivatos, the crops have often failed ; there is one great wine ftore in the city, with ftowage for a million bottles of wine, but the proprietor has THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. ^i given up the cultivation of his own vines. Tlic pork curing and packing houfcs arc well worth a vifit from thofe who are curious about fuch induftries. Having neceffarily lived, during my progrefs through Canada and the United States, in a number of hotels of varied powers of accommodation, from the Fifth Avenue at New York down to provincial houfes with not a tenth part of the accom- modation of that palatial fl:ru6lure, I may claim now to be fomc- what of an authority on the hotel life of the New World. As already indicated, the chief American hotels are of large fize, and are conduced on a fyftematic plan of management. As a rule, no one ever thinks of afl-lph''., I need !)< fay more about it at prefent. We arrived at Wafhin^tri. rlv f><;,!,'..ical capital of America, about half-paft five o'clock A.M., obtaining ariartments at the Arlington Hotel, where we were glad to go to bed for about four hours. We breakfafted about v.en o'clock, and afterwards walked out to fee the city. Entering a flreet car, we were taken to the Capitol, a building which is ufed for the fame purpofes as our Britifh Houfes of Parliament. We made the tour of the principal ai.i«irtments, which are the Rotunda, the Senate Chambers, the Old Hall of Reprefentatives, the Supreme Court Room, the Prefident's Room, the Speaker's Room, the Senate Lobby, and the Oct. 15 ;, lU 68 SOUVENIR OF A TOUR IN Oct. 15. Congreffional Library, and were much pleafed with what we faw. The walls, and generally the pillars, of thefe chambers are of polifned marble. The two large wings of the main ftru6lure are wholly built of white marble, and the entire building being white, has a fine efifedl: when fcen from a diftance. We afccndcd, by a fpiral ftairway, to the top of the dome, a height of 241 feet above the main building, from which we obtained a fplendid view of the city and furrounding country. The two main doors of the centre building and caft wing arc of folid bronze, and have pi6lurcs or fcenes in " alto relievo," fimilar to the doors of the Maufoleum at Hamilton Palace. The Rogers bronze door is faid to be the fincft in the world ; it weighs 20,000 lbs., and contains eight panels, each rcprefenting a different fcene. The Crawford bronze door is alfo very fine ; one half of the door, in four panels, rcprcfcnts " War," and the other half rcprcfcnts " Peace." In the Speaker's Room there is an cxquifitc marble figure of a female rcprefenting " the Well." There are a great many other works of art in the Capitol, including fome fplendid piflures in the large circular area under the dome. After leaving the Capitol, which is open to the public, without charge of any kind, from ten to three o'clock every day — an example that might We'll be followed at home — wg proceeded by ftrect car to the Navy Yard, and, having procured an order at the office, were con- duced through feme portions of the yard where the workfliops are fituated, and into fome of which we entered, to gain an idea of what was going on. We then got into a fmall boat on the River Potomac, and were ferried acrofs by one of the failors to fome of the ves- fels ufed during the late war ; we firft boarded the war monitor named " Montank," which is fitted with a revolving turret, and carries two large guns, the turret being built all round with eleven plates of iron, each of which is fully an inch thick. The fliip is propelled by fcrews worked by fteam-engincs placed apart from each other, and the outfide cafing of this vcffel is compofed of five iron plates, each being an inch thick, the whole backed up with three feet of folid oak beams. When loaded, the " Montank " is only about two feet above water. We were afterwards taken on board a torpedo vcffel named the " Hero," and went down and examined the engines. This veffel is built after the plan of the " Monitor," but has no turrets ; it is THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. 69 likcwifc covered over with iron, and not more than two feet above the water when loaded. On both veffels we obferved the effefls of cannon balls fired at Charlcfton by the Confederates during the late war. The materials in the Navy Yard are removed, when required, by carriages or waggons drawn by bullocks. After breakfaft had a call from a Scotchman named Imric, who has b;cn eighteen years in Wafliington, and to whom one of my travelling companions had a letter of introdu6lion. He accompanied us throu.^h the city flievvit> Alfo another race rather flower than the above, viz. : ifl; heat, 2 minutes 341^ feconds for one mile. 2nd „ 2 „ 32^ 3rd „ 2 „ 2>6 » After leaving the race grounds, drove into Brooklyn, and called on Mr and Mrs Turkington, where we remained for fome time and partook of refrefliments. As I gave you a little general fl^etch of this great city upon my arrival in it, I fliall not recur to its main features more than to fay that the fi:ir and buflle is fomething extraordinary, and the defire to pufh bufinefs exceffive. One particular I may note, and that is the extraordinary number of publications, both in the fhape of daily morning and evening newfpapers as well as weekly journals and periodicals of all kinds ; but this feature is not confined to New IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 7 /. ^ii. I/. ^ ^ 1.0 S-ia I I.I lU ■10 2.5 2.2 IL25 r 1.4 I 2.0 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. I45S0 (716) 87r4S03 m A^ iV ^\ V 4 9) IE fi f/j ■ 8o SOUVENIR OF A TOUR IN Oct. 21. York — even the comparatively finall towns throughout the States have their one or two daily papers and weekly journals as well, and thefe are wx'll filled with advertifements ; everybody feems to advertife, and all forts of plans are adopted to gain publicity. Time-tables for rail- ways, omnibufes, and fleamboats, are given away gratuitoufly, the expenfe being largely recouped by means of the advertifements printed upon them. The circulation of fome of the New York newfpapers is extraordinary — a quarter of a million copies on certain occafions not being thought a wonderful fale. One curiofity of New York, which I forgot to mention on my arrival, may be here alluded to — I mean the "over-head" railway. In London (I-lurope) there is an under- ground line of rails, but here we fee railway trains flying along at the level of the drawing-room windows ! — the ftreet traffic in fome of the thoroughfares being enormous, the over-head railway is one of the devices reforted to to relieve it. An underground railway, promoted by Mr Vanderbilt, from the Grand Union Depot to the City Ilall, is now in courfe of conft:ru(5tion, and will doubtlcfs be of great utility. Oct. 22. Had a call this morning from Mr J. Denniftoun, who had, by letter the night before, offered me the ufe of his carriage and pair. After arranging to meet him a. Mr John liaird's office, I called upon Mr Rennie, fenior, whom I faw, and thanked for his attention in forward- ing my letters fo as to reach me in fafety at the various places where I fojourned. Afterwards I proceeded to Courtlandt Street, and faw Mr Charles Miner, a brother-in-law of Mr Turkington. Mr Turkington then went along with me to Mr Baird's, who, unluckily, was from home, being away in Canada ; but we were introduced to Mr Novaro, his partner, by Mr Denniftoun, with whom I remained a fliort time, afterwards going to Delmonico's rcrtaurant to take fome refrefliment. I concluded the day going about with Mr Turkington making various purchafes of whips, toys, Saratoga fans, and other little fouvenirs for my young folks. Afterwards my friend dined with me at the Fifth Avenue Hotel, when I obtained his affillance in packing my trunk, and about ten o'clock retired to bed. TlIK L'Nrii:i) STATUS AND e AN ADA. 8i THE VOYAGE IIOMi:. Having brcakfaftcd abuut fcvcn o'clock \vc left by ftagc coach belonging to the hotel at eight o'clock for the Ciinard Wharf, New Jerfey City, the charge for conveying each perfon, including baggage, being two dollars. As foon as we got on board, I arranged as to my berth and feat in faloon, which is kept for mc during the voyage, it not being etiquette to take any other feat than the one appointed. Turkington and his brother-in-law, Charlt.s Miner, were at the pier to' fay good-bye and fee us off, and we failed moft promptly at ten o'clock, the hour advertifed— the weather beautiful, fimilar indeed to that we hud enjoyed for a long time pafl. In failing down New York Bay, we had a fine view of Brooklyn on the left, and on the right New Jerfey City, with part of the State, alfo Statcn Ifland and Sandy Hook, which is eighteen miles from New York. After the veffel had left the latter place and proceeded to fea a confiderable diftanco, luncheon was ferved. We fat down to dinner at four o'clock, and took our tea about half-pafl: fcven. as ufual in the Cunard learners. The morning rather foggy, light wind, blowing N.N.E. Out of bed about half-pafl feven o'clock, and had an hour's walk previous to taking breakfiift. I found three of thofe who came acrofs by the " Kuffia" on board the " Cuba." There are 130 paffengers, fo that the fliip is not fo crowded as the " RulTia " was. Met on board a Mr Wm. Brown, from Craigie, near Perth, with whom wc had made acquaint- ance when croffing over Lake Ontario to Niagara. Sailed up till twelve o'clock to-day 312 miles from Sandy Hook ; add eighteen miles from New York to Sandy Hook, making 330 miles in all. To-day was rather cold, there having been very little funHiine. About four o'clock P.M. the wind veered round to N.E. Paffcd the day lounging, reading, and writing ; no fickncfs on board, fo far as I have heard, although fome of the paffengers did not appear at dinner. Came on deck about half-paft fevcn, and found the morning beauti- ful " The fun flionc bright and clear," the wind being due eafl, and, M (ki. 23. Oct. 24. Oct. 25. «: SOUVKNIR OF A TOUR IN I Oct. 2$. therefore, right ahead. Found the failors taking the fliip's reckoning, when it was announced that the fteanicr was going at the rate of I2ji( knots an hour ; up till twelve o'clock we had run 275 miles. Till fi.x o'clock P.M. the wind continued from the eafl:, but it was not by any means chilly, the eaft wind on the open ocean not being fo cold as on land. Nothing of any particular interefl: falls to be recorded to-day. Oct. 26. On decV, as ufual, about half-part feven o'clock, and found the morning very funny and beautiful. Almofl no wind, what there is being from the N.W. The fails, although partly fet, are not helping us much, as they are flapijing a good deal — the log, I am told, indi- cates that we are making thirteen knots an hour. 3.30 P.M. — All on deck lounging, walking, or reading ; almofl; a calm ; diflancc run up till twelve o'clock, 303 miles. A great many fea birds were Hying afl^ern of our fliip all day long, and that is the only notable fa6l I can men- tion. In the evening the ivind had veered round to due weft, and was therefore quite favourable, being right aflern of us. Oct. 27. A fine funny morning when I came aloft about eight o'clock. Wind right aftcrn or due weft, but not blowing at a fpecd quicker than that of our fliip, and the fmoke from the funnel was therefore afcending perpendicularly. After breakfaft, and while I was on deck, we paffed within about three miles of a fteamboat bound from Bremen to New York ; the veffcls falutcd each other by raifing a flag. We alfo paffed a fmall boat floating in the ocean, bottom upwards ; it was thought by fome of us that the Captain ftiould have afcertained its name or have brought it on board, as it might have belonged to fome fhip- wrecked veffel, and fo told us a tale. At 10.15 A.M. we affembled in the faloon for worfliip ; after prayer and the finging of a Pfalm, the mufic being led by the Captain of the " Cuba," we liftened to an exce. ent difcourfe from Pfalms xxxiv. 8 10, by a clergyman, who is a paffenger — the Rev. Mr. Ryan of London — and were all very much plcafcd with the fervice, which lafted fully an hour. Speed of our fliip to-day about 13 knots an hour, the diftance failed being 309 miles. THE UMTKl) STATI.S AND CANADA. 83 Much difturbcd during the nij^ht by the bo.itfwain pipinf^, and by the noife of the failors (InijinLj and "chorufinj;" while arran^^nng the fails — a fliiiht s^ale from ti\c north-well having; fprung up. I came on deck about eight o'clock, and found a ftiff breeze blowing from the weft, right aftern, thereby pulhing our fliip along — the log indicating a fpeed of 14^;^ knots an hour. Hefore going down to breakfall I witneffed the gambols of a large (hoalof porpoifes, which accompanied the fliip for a few minutes ; it was a fine fight to fee them jumping from the top of a large wave right out of the water into the trough of the fea below. Very few at the breakfaft table. About ten o'clock we paffed a fteamfhip faid to be the "Minia," bound from London to New York. She was only about one mile dirtant from us, but except the top of her funnel and mafts, wa.s frequently quite out of fight, although we were flanding on the upper or faloon deck — the difappear- ance, of courfe, being caufed by the immenfe waves rolling between the tvvo fliips. To-day we faw feveral birds called "Stormy I'etrels" or " Mother Carey's Chickens." Log indicates I i)^ knots an hour; dis- tance failed to-day, 328 miles. (tct. 28. Came on deck before breakfafl:, not having had much flccp (neither, indeed, had any of the paffengers) on account of the rolling of the fliip. Heard that a great many of the lady paffengers were fick. The wind changed to N.E. ; the log indicating 13 knots an hour as our fpeed. About noon we faw a large fteamfliip bound for New York, belonging to the National Steam Shipping Company. The diftance failed to-day is 320 miles. During the day wc faw the mafts of another vcffel about nine or ten miles diftant, that being nearly the extreme diflancc one can fee around from on board a fl.ip at fea. The weather was rather cold to-day, but otherwife pleafant enough. Oct. 29. Made my dt'but on deck to-day pretty early. A really fplendid funny morning; wind from N.W. ; fliip failing 13^ knots an hour. There is a confiderable fwell on the ocean, and our fliip ftill rolls very much. The diflance failed to-day is 298 miles. We were on the outlook all day to fee fomc fliip or other, but none hove in fight. I lay lounging on the faloon deck along with other gentlemen — Mr Oct. 30. ^«!Pi»^iiP'iiiuii nil ipMip^annM 84 Sorvr.NIR OF A TOUR IN I Oct. 30. Cameron from Hamilton, Canada, Mr lirown, and others — for two or three hours this afternoon, enjoyin.; the funfliinc and light breeze. Nothing of any moment to put in my Diary to-day ; indeed, one day at fea is jufl: a repetition of the day before, and the precurfor of that which is to follow. Wind favourable all day, chiefly from N.W. Oct 31. Strong funfliine this morning, with a fliarp breeze direfl from the weft. Sails all fquare fet, and fliip failing 14 knots an hour, the diftance failed to-day being 328 miles, and, from c.lculations made, we are about 340 miles from Oueenftown. After dinner we were all greatly amufed by the legerdemain tricks of Mr Maddicks, proprietor of the Cohrt Journal, London. He had amufrd fome of the young folks after dinner during the laft two or three days, but to-day he gave a fpecial entertainment, for both the old and young, which was very kind of him. Nov. I. Contrary to my ufual cuftom, I did not enjoy my ufual walk on deck before breakfaft this morning, on account of the ftormy weather. About breakfaft time (8.30) the coafl; of Ireland appeared in fight, and fliortly afterwards we paffed the Faftnett Lighthoufe, 60 miles diftant from Queenftown ; wind blowing hard from the fouth, and the (liip failing at the rate of 1 3 knots an hour. Mounted to the faloon deck, where, along with feven or eight other gentlemen, partially flieltered by a piece of canvas placed along the upright rails, I remained during a very fevere ftorm of wind, rain, and hail, which laftcd for about two hours, the wind being S.W. During the continuance of the ftorm three or four of us, notwithftanding the height of the faloon deck, were waflied right off our feet and fwept along the floor, much to the amufement of thofe who were fortunately enabled to retain their upright pofition. I have met on board during the trip feveral moft- agreeable gentlemen — Mr M'Donald, of Green & Sons, of Montreal ; Mr Cameron, of Hamilton, Canada Weft ; Mr William Brown, of Craigie, Perth ; Mr M'Naughton, of M'Naughton & Deans, Leith ; Hon. Mr Dorion, Member of the Canadian Legiflature ; Mr Finlay, a Scotchman fettled in New Vork ; Mcffrs A. V. and S. J. Kelly, of Chicago, lumber merchants, and their wives and families, who are THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. 85 proceeding to Nice to fpcnd the winter. We arrived at Queenftown about half-paft two o'clock. A number of the paffcngers— the Kellys, &c.— left us here per tugboat for Cork. Juft as the tug was ftarting I received a letter from Glafgow, to which I had not time to reply. We left the Cove of Cork, alias Queenftown, about half-pafl three o'clock, the weather being rather ftormy. Diftance failed till twelve noon to- day, 318 miles. As we fliall land to-morrow at Liverpool, if all goes well, I nuifl take the prefent opportunity of faying how much we are all delighted with the Cunard ftcamers. As you are aware, I went out in the " Ruffia," a magnificent veffel, with engines of 600 horfe- power, ably officered and carrying a furgeon ; and I came home in the " Cuba," an equally fplendid veffel, commanded by Captain Moodie. All the fleaming and failing appliances of thefe veffels are on a grand fcale, and the difcipline of the Cunard fliips 's equal to that of Her Majefty's navy. A moft liberal table is laid out four times a-day, and there is quite a little army of waiters or ftewards to attend on the paffengers, and I mufl: fay they perform their part to the general fatisfa6lion of all who patronife the Cunard line. Arofe and breakfafled an hour earlier than ufual this morning ; the weather, I may record, was rather wet, although not fo ftormy as yefterday. Every one feems to be engaged in labelling luggage and exchanging cards or addrcffes with newly formed friends or acquaint- ances. Early this morning a pilot came on board to condufl our fliip to Liverpool. Diftance from Qucenftown to Liverpool, 240 miles, but add difl:ancc failed from twelve noon yeflerday to Qucenftown, 22 miles, making the total 262 miles. Arrived in the Merfey at Liverpool about eleven o'clock; at which hour the "Ruffia," by which I failed to New York on 24th Augufl:, paffed us, with, appa- rently, a full complement of paffengers. After a delay of nearly two hours, fpcnt partly in getting our luggage examined by the Cuftom- houfc officers, and partly in getting hauled into dock, we landed about one o'clock, and, having procured a cab, drove dire6l to the London and North Weflern Hotel, Lime Street, where, as we were dis- appointed in our luggage not being forward in time, we had to wait for the 4.20 train to Glafgow. I arrived at Buchanan Street Station Nov. I. Nov. 2. 86 SOUVF.NIR ()V A TOUR IN Nov. 2. fliortly after midnight, where, to my j^reat joy, I found my wife and three eldell children waiting to bid me welcome home. NOTK OF DISTANCES TRAVICLLKD HY LAND AND WATKR IN THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA l''R()M SEIT. 4111 TILL OCTOBER 331), A PERIOD OF SEVEN WEEKS. On Railways. On Water. New York to Albany — 152 Albany to Saratoga 35 Saratoga to Caldwell at Lake George 3c On Lake George from Caldwell t(j Tynadogra — 35 F'rom Lake George to Lake ( hamplain 4 Lake Champlain to Roufe's Point — 106 Roufe's Point to Montreal 50 Montreal to Quebec — 150 Quebec to Montreal 172 Montreal to La Chine 8 La Chine to Montreal, down the Rapids — 8 Montreal to Ottawa 20 148 Ottawa to Prcfcott 3;; Prcfcott to Toronto 239 Toronto to Niagara Falls 7 35 Niagara to liuffalo and back 50 Do. to St. Catherine's 11 St. Catherine's to Grimfljy Station 16 Grimfljy to Hamilton 16 Hamilton to London y6 London to Detroit iii Carryforward 880 634 THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. < 'n Railways Brought forward 880 Detroit to Chicago 284 Chicago to Quincy 263 Quincy to Saint Louis (per Miffifllppi River)... — Saint Louis to Evanfville i6i Evanfville to Owenfljurg (per Ohio River) — Owenfburg to Rockport 59 Rockport to Hcndric's Farm and back 14 Rockport to Elizabethtown T] Elizabcthtown to Glafgow Jun6lion 49 Glafgow Junction to Mammoth Cave (per ftage and back) 24 Glafgow Jun6lion to Louifvillc 91 Louifvillc to Lexington 94 Lexington to Cincinnati via Conington 112 Cincinnati to Pittfburg 313 Pittfburg to Baltimore via Harrifburg 333 Baltimore to VVafliington 40 Wafliington to Richmond 1 30 Richmond to Philadelphia 268 Philadelphia to New York 90 3282 miles. ABSTRACT OF MILES. By railway and partly fliagc 3282 By water on lakes or rivers 844 4126 Add from Liverpool to New York and back 6200 87 On Water 634 160 50 844 niilcs. To which add diftanccs drive places we vifited. 10,326 fight-fccing at the various cities and 88 SOUVKNIK <)l A TOUR IN RIVERS. UNITED .STATES VIS Hudfon. State of New York. St Lawrence. I\Iichij;an. Ottawa. „ Illinois. Niagara. „ Miffouri. Mirfirfippi. Kentucky. Miffouri. „ Indiana. Ohio. Ohio. Green River. „ Tennfylvania. Kentucky River. Maryland. Potomac. „ New Jerfey. Delaware. Virginia. James River. Diftria of Columbia— 12 Schuylkill. Sufquehanna--i4. LAKES. Lake George. Champlain. Ontario. Erie. Michigan. St Clair— 6. THE UNITED STATES AND l ANADA. 89 CONCLUSION. The brief Prefatory Note at the cununencement of this Diary- explains how it comes to be printed ; but I vvifli to be allowed to fay. by way of "conclufion" to my travels, that it had lon^j been a cheriflied intention of mine to vifit Canada and the United States of America. At any time during the laft ten years I was anxious to flart, but from one caufe or other, generally fome unexpeaed bufinefs arrangement of my own, or the failure to find a fuitable travelling companion ready to ftart at the fame time as myfelf, my intention could not be carried out till the autumn of the prefent year. As I have carefully entered every day's progrefs in the foregoing pages, I need not go over ground already well trodden. Of courfe thofe who receive the prefent " Souvenir " will fpeedily be aware that, fpeaking comparatively, I have vifitcd only a fmall portion of the New World. It was a fubjedl of regret to me that limited time would not permit me to crofs over from Chicago to California to fee the Pacific Ocean and the various fights by the way, fuch as the great Salt Lake, the city of Utah, the home of Mormonifui, and the Rocky Mountains, which lend fo much intereft to American travel. I claim to have been very induftrious during the feven weeks of my fojourn in the New Worid ; it only requires a perufal of the figures which I have gathered into a focus in the preceding two pages, as denoting the ground gone over, to fliow that. Now that I have been prevailed upon to print, I regret exceedingly that I did not take fuller notes during my progrefs, but, as ftated in another place, my Diary was originally intended for the perufal of my own family, and although it now appears in print, it is printed fubflantially in the fame form as it was fent home. America, as all readers know, is a country of great magnitude, many of its States occupying areas equal in extent to the kingdoms N 90 SOL'VKNIK OK A T(JUk IN wc have at home, or on the Continent of luirope. Thus, three of the States which I vifited (Virginia, Ohio, and Illinois), comprife a furface upwards of 34,000 fcjuare miles larger than the united area of Great Ikitain and Ireland. The State of Virginia, for example, is confiderably greater than ICngland, and nearly as large as Scotland and Ireland put together, and the territory embraced in the State of Indiana is greater by far than Belgium and Holland combined, whilfl; the State of Ohio is bigger than the Kingdom of Portugal ! The Lakes and Rivers of the New World are, as might be expelled, of cor- refponding magnitude. Lake Superior being 400 miles in length, and averaging 80 miles in breadth, whilfl: the mighty MilTifTippi, " father of waters," runs, as I have elfewhere detailed, thoufands of miles before it finds a home in the deep bofom of the ocean. The United States, being fo large, embrace at one and the fame time the extremes of climatic variation : iuthe frigid north, while the fnow is fteadily falling, the vivifying fun in the fouth may be wakening the rofe into life, and transforming the fcencs around into gardens of tropical beauty and luxuriance! Is it to be wondered at, then, that the inhabitants of this mighty country are both proud and ambitious, or that they lay out cities vaft; in extent, and abounding in ftreets and buildii.gs outvie- ing in length and fize thofe of any other nation .' The country is rich in educational inftitutions of all kinds — churches, fchools, and literary affociations, being exceedingly numerous throughout America. The fyftem of national education in the United States has been mofl fuccefsful ; children are trained in knowledge and induftry, and I have feen few idle people either in Canada 01 the States, nor, fo far as I can charge my memory, was I ever folicited by a beggar for alms. As a home for the emigrant, the United States of America and the Dominion of Canada will afford room for a million or two of mecha- nics and labourers from other countries, there being in the rifing towns and rapidly extending villages work and wages for all, whilft in the far interior of thcfe countries there is land fufficient for many thoufand farms. It will be obfervcd that I have confined myfelf in my Diary chiefly to the topography and induftrial features of the States vifited by THK UNITED STATES ANU CANADA. 91 myfclf and friends, not having taken time to pen difquifitions on the characfler of the American people. I mi^