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.J, :f M*?t?*.;-. 
 
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In Arctic Seas 
 
 The Voyage of the " Kite " 
 
 WITH Till! 
 
 Peary Expedition 
 
 TOC.T.IHK WM„ ,, TKANSCIUM- „„ ,,,K 
 
 Log of the "Kite- 
 
 ROBERT N. KEELY. JR.. M, o 
 
 Purgeon to il,e Expediti,,,, sent In- ,. e Ac„i..„ r m 
 
 AM) 
 
 G- G. DAVIS. .. AL M. D.. M. R. C S 
 
 "lustrated by Maps. Portraits and Photographic 
 
 ylvania, etc. 
 
 Views 
 
 PHILADELPHIA 
 
 RuFus C Hartranft 
 1892 
 
 • "'•• ;. , 
 
 • • • I 
 • t • 
 
Coi'VkKillr, Ihyj, 
 
 BV KILTS C. HAKlKAN'K'r. 
 
 Am. KkiiITS KKSKKVKt. 
 
 PRESS AND niNDKRv ()^ 
 
 HISTORICAL I-miMSllINC. CO. 
 I-HII.ADKI.p,,,^ ,.,^ 
 
 * ■ t • I 
 
 •..;v.. 
 
PUBLISHKR'S PR KPACK. 
 
 
 
 The u-ork licrev/itli presented to the reader is 
 divided into two -parate bnt closely related p^rts 
 The first part, "The Voyage of the AV/r," is the 
 narrative of tlie expedition sent in 1891 to convey 
 Lient. Peary to the northwestern shore of Green- 
 land ; the second, nnder the general title of " The 
 Peary Relief Expedition," is a record of the second 
 ^•oyage of the same vessel in the present year 
 when she was sent to bring the party home again.' 
 Added tu the acconnt of the two vojvages is a 
 transcript of the log-book of Captain Pike the 
 commander of the ship on both expeditions ; a 
 number of facts relating to Mr. Verhoeff, the 
 only missing member of either party, with letters 
 irom his relatives giving the arguments in favor 
 of then- belief that he is still alive, and the cor- 
 respondence between the yonng man and Lient. 
 Peary anterior to his joining the expedition The 
 search for \^erhoefif is minutely described, and the 
 certificate respecting the same, signed by Captain 
 Pike and his chief officer, is reproduced. Besides 
 
IV 
 
 pun I. IS HER S PR It FA CE. 
 
 this, there are ehapters on tlie winter life of the 
 Peary part)' north, and on the jonrney of Lient. 
 Peary across the inland ice of Greenland. This 
 journey was in many respects the most wonder- 
 ful of all V(j3'ages of discovery in modern times. 
 It was not made across the sea as was Colum- 
 bus', nor over the land as was that of Stanley ; 
 it was made across the ice — as pathless as the 
 sea, as crowded with formidable obstacles as is the 
 heart of Africa, and was made under discouraging 
 circumstances l)y two men comparatively unused 
 to Arctic travel. 
 
 The great and startling discoveries made b}- the 
 expeditions were summarized in the report pre- 
 sented by Lieut. Peary to the Academy of Natural 
 Sciences, the substance of which is included in 
 an Appendix. The volume thus forms a com- 
 plete and authentic record of one of the most 
 successful journej'S ever made by any exploring 
 party to the frozen North. 
 
 A brief history of Arctic voyages from the 
 earliest times to the present day has been ap- 
 pended in the belief that it would be useful for 
 handy reference. 
 
 i 
 
PRHFACH 
 
 ^HI-: authors have requested nie to write a preface to 
 J- their story of tlie AV/r's voyage to the tar North. I 
 have ,<;]a(lly consented, because I not only have a full 
 knowlcd^^e of the voyage itself, but also of ihe book, tlie 
 authors of which have been my intimate friends for 
 many years. The book needs no apolotry. At a time 
 when the whole cotuitry is interested in the elforls to 
 rescue the little band of darincr explorers who have risked 
 their lives in the cause of science, everythin.,^ that relates 
 to their journey possesses -/rdue, iwrticularly when it is 
 told by one familiar with the members and with the cir- 
 cumstances surroumlin,<r their journey to the North. The 
 sentimental interest relatin.t,^ to their fate is scarcely less 
 than was felt concerninor that of Sir John Franklin. In 
 the one case it was the svmpalhv- for a devoted wife 
 which caused expedition after expedition to be sent out 
 in search of her coura.neous husband. In this case 
 another devoted wife refused to leave her husband's 
 side, but has faced the terrors of an Arctic winter with 
 him, and it is to rescue and relieve her that the sym]Kithy 
 of the people has been awakened. The relief expedi- 
 tion has the prayers of a nation that its quest ma\- be 
 successful. 
 
 (V) 
 
VI 
 
 /'/vv;/'. /(/•; 
 
 liiu llic pix'scul l)i)(ik has ail iiilcTcsi (jiiiic ils u\\ ii in 
 thai it rclalfs, in a straiL^lilt'orward \va\-, cxactK' what was 
 seen and hfard 1)\ Dr. Ki-'ily on his\o\a,m.' to the Xnrth, 
 and wdiich was ivronk'd with fidelity in a diar\- which he 
 ke])t fmni da\ to da\'. 'I'hc cxptdition, of which Dr. 
 Kccly and nusclf had the honor to hi- members, had ex- 
 ceptional ()i)])orlnnities lo see the life and cnstoms ot" the 
 natives of Xorlhern ( ireenland. Most of the expeditions 
 to the Arctic re<rioiis have been in haste to reach the 
 farthest possible north, and on their retnrn were inter- 
 ested only in reachinj^' civilization. The A7A', however, 
 steamed leisnreh- back, slopjiinjn wdiercver points of 
 interest existed, thns allowin<4 the members of the ])art\- 
 to become fairh' familiar with the natives and the desolate 
 conntry wdiich they inhabit. Those thin_i;s which were 
 of sjiccial interest were faithfully recorded in Dr. Keely's 
 diary, wdiich proved the basis of the jiresent work. 
 
 Althon<^h this was his first \'o\a!Lie to the Arctic re- 
 <;ions. Dr. Keelx' was already experienced in travel and 
 with meetiii}.;- stranj^e peojjle. He had visited not only 
 most of the conntries of Knrope, but also main' of the 
 Stales of Central and Sonlh America, and his powers of 
 observation, thns (piickened, (i^rasiK'd many interestinjr 
 thinjTS which wonld have escaped one less familiar with 
 the world and its peoi)le. 
 
 The aid wdiich he received from Dr. (iwilym (ieor<je 
 Da\is was invalnable. Not only with his pencil (for the 
 sketches wdiich illnstrale the work were made by him), 
 bnt also with his jjcii, he has devoted himself, with un- 
 tiring indnstry, to the task of making readable and \aln- 
 
 I 
 
Ill 
 
 VMS 
 
 th, 
 
 llr 
 
 )r. 
 x- 
 
 lic 
 lis 
 
 IC 
 
 r- 
 
 r, 
 f 
 y 
 
 e 
 
 I 
 f 
 
 / '/>7; /■■./( /.;. 
 
 vn 
 
 a!.K- this l,nnk ,.f Arctic- travel. Mv nw„ sl,,nv in ti.c 
 work l,;,s Iktu n.nlluol t., thr writinn ,..,t ui cvrlaiii 
 (acts and incidents „r whi.-l. I 1,;„I special knnwK.l-a' 
 ItccI that I have little claim to either cre.lil or thanks, 
 '"'^ '"" I"'""' "'" ^"1 «'l'P<"lunitv to have niv name con- 
 iK'Cte.l with a work which. 1 an, huv, will he a sonrcc 
 ol pn<le to the authors and of nselnlnos to the neneral 
 public, 
 
 !>••. KcelvandDr. Davis have aske.l n,e to thank , .ar- 
 ^•^'"'•"■'v I'rof. iJenj. Sharpan.l Prof. Jacol, 1.-. n,.it fo, t,,, 
 .^vnerons nse they have permitted ..f their photo.,, ,phs 
 "■"". winch a larne n.tmher ..fthe plates illnstrath.- this 
 volnme have been made. Thanks are also <••,, to i'n.f 
 Anoelo Meilprin for similar conrlesio, and to Jol . j" 
 McKenna, ivsc,., of Philadelphia, lor several acts of 
 K.I :d Mess. 
 
CONTJiXTs. 
 
 I-IST Ol- Il.l.'.STUVTlONS 
 
 y-I2 
 
 PART I. 
 
 TIIK VOVACiK Ol- Tin.; '•KITF- 
 
 ■ * • '5 J'S 
 
 iNTKOIirCTUiN 
 
 ' • • • ■ 15 
 
 cii.\pti:r I. 
 
 1..H Staut.-Ca,.ta.n PiKK.-OrR Ckkw.-Th,.; I.an,. u. 
 
 I-:VAN,;,.:...XH._AKK,VA,. AT SvnXKV. C..A,.,N,; KOK nu: 
 VOVACK . . 
 
 23 
 
 cii.\i'ti:r II. 
 
 CKcssiN,; ruv. Cvu- ..k St. I.AWKKNCK.-OrK FrnsT Ick.- 
 Ax .\nANi...XKi. I!..AT- IX Tmc Mn>sT cf th..; r,.,,K- 
 N':wr..rx.„.Ax„ Imsukkmkx.-okk ...k Capk I.ks....a- 
 
 TKJX . . 
 
 ■ ' ■ 3' 
 
 CII.M'TER III. 
 
 I-KST S„;„T OF (;KKKX,,AXn-ICKHKK.;s.--I.,SK., IS..AX,,. - 
 
 Ark.vai. at (ionHAVx.^-V.srr of Ksk.mos.-D.xix.; uTn. 
 
 TIIK Ck)VF;uxoK,-.\ATivi.: HtTS 
 
 42 
 
2 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAITlvR IV. 
 A Nativi-; Dan'cic. — I'oi.auis IIicnkicr — I<i:i,ic.I()N of tiih 
 Eskimos. — Modk ok (iovicuNMicxT. — MosyriToKs. — A 
 I'UJNiVH IN THK Arctic C)ci;an. — Tine N'ativic Aimmctitk . 59 
 
 ciiai>ti;r V. 
 
 FaKICWIvM, to (loDHAVN. — AUUIVAI, AT UrKKNAVIK. — XoTICK 
 
 TO Makimcus in Tiiiv Davis Straits. Till; .Si:tti,i;mi;nt 
 
 AND ITS iNIIAItlTA.NTS. — DlCK ISI.ANIiS 75 
 
 CIIAITI'U VI. 
 
 Coi,I,Al'SI\(, OI" AN ICKHIvKC, — InTHI': M III, VI 1.1,1-; \\\\ I'ACK. 
 l'l<Oi:S AND I'ANS. — lilTTIXC. THI', ICl-.. — .\RCTIC Sl'ORT. 
 
 I, HUT. I'icARV Hri:aks His I.i.c, 
 
 CII.MTIik VII. 
 
 An .\ccii)i;nt to Tiiic Sim-, .\iri'i;i) in thI'; Ici;.--r.i.AST- 
 iNc. "Wic Kii.i, A r.i:AK. — 'rAiu.i-; k'hiii.KC.s.— Cai'i-; York 
 ,Sic.iiTi;i).- Drii'Tinc. with tiii; Pack 99 
 
 CIIAr'I'I'K \III. 
 Vkv.v. OncI'! Moric. - Caim-: Takrv and W iiai.i-: Sihnk. — An 
 IvsKiMo Vii.i.Ac.i:. Till'. Nativi;s. Contrast with Tiir: 
 l'"ii;(.iANS. — Rki.ics i-R(i.\i i;s.<iMo (iRAVi;s 114 
 
 CHArTI'.K IX. 
 
 IIUKHl'.RT ISI.\NI>. I'OX TRAPS .V C.RI'.IIN Si'oT .XmoNC. Till' 
 ('.I.ACII'.KS McCoRMUK I!A\ . — C HOOSI M . \ ."^I'liT imR 
 
 I'l; xrv'sCami'. ilrii.iuNC. Tin; Ilorsi; A Ci.mi; To tiii; 
 
 ICK CAl' 127 
 
59 
 
 CONTENl^S. 3 
 
 CIIAI'TKR X. 
 A8cirour< of Whitk WiiAi.Ks.-IiiDDix,; C, xm-iiv to thi-: 
 I'i;.\i<v I'AKTv.-Ax Arctic Stokm.— CKowi.icks.-SAr.N- 
 Di'KS Isi.Axi).— SorTiiWAKi) liorxi).— Ckimson Ci.ii'is.— 
 Ri;i. Snow.— Tiiij Cai-ic Vokk Xativks.— An Ivskimcj 
 
 Taii.ok 
 
 MI 
 
 CHAI'TlvR XI. 
 Akctic Ci.()THrN(;.-A Si.kd.wmudk.-An Ini)I(;na\t Ivskimo 
 I,Aii\-.— Till-, Xati\I'; Docs.— Si,i;i)c.i;,s ,-0 
 
 CHAI'TI-R XII. 
 
 Hows AM, AI.'KOWS.- Sl>i;AkS AND H A Rl-OONS.- 1 [rNTIM ; TIIIC 
 
 Si:ai. axi, Wai.kis- Scakcitv ok Wool. --Ciiii.i.Ri.:.N's 
 Toys, — ■MiCKivv" axd His 1)oix(;s .Ciy 
 
 CIIAI'TI'R XIII. 
 
 Asci.:xi>ix(; thic Irox Moixtaixs -(^kkkxi.axi. < m.a^ ,i;rs.- 
 A.,\iN ox oik Way Homi;.— TiiKor.-,ii \Vah,\ti: Ciiax- 
 
 XIU..— A (W.ORIOIS SrXSivT. -SlCARCIIIXc; FOR CoAI, 1)1^- 
 
 1 'OS its .... 
 
 '«5 
 
 cii.\iti;r XIV. 
 
 At (;o,,nAVN ONCF Mork.-Mictforitfs.-Tiif I.VXh ,,F 
 
 DfsoI.aTIoX. -TaKIX.; on HaFLAST. — ( )N TMK OPFN 
 
 Si-\,— Xkwit ni;o:xs.-0|.F tiii^ Co\st oi' I,ai;r \n,,R.-- 
 AnM«,Ncinx.; St. Joiixs.-Ofr Ri.cfftion.-- A Ria.fw 
 
 i>i- Tin; Tru- .... 
 
 • • ■ • 19S 
 
"^ CONTENTS. 
 
 PART II. 
 
 TIIK RICLIKP OP PKAKV AM, THE LOO OP T^P 
 "KIT]'," Etc. ... 
 
 ^'9-524 
 
 iNTKonrcTroN- 
 
 Tin; 1,0,; ,,,.■ Tin; "Kiti, " 
 
 Tin; P1..VKV Rkukk 1vxi.hi.,t„,n 
 
 • 219-224 
 . 225-265 
 ■ 267-524 
 
 cir.\i'T(;R I. 
 
 '■•<'^'^'>.ST,<n.,T.ox Am.,x. ,,„.; Xokthkkx Psk.mos _ 
 
 SKKTCHKSO. TUKMKM„KKSn. THK PxPKnmox . 
 
 CIIAI'TI'R II. 
 
 Th. St.u<t.-T„k Mn<Ax,...-PK.,M H,<ooKr.vx n.llu,- 
 I'Ax.— ix A I)i;x,si-: I'oc. 
 
 267 
 
 274 
 
 ciiai'Ti.;r III. 
 IlAr.,KAx.-iTs IlnrsKs, Stkkkts, ax,. Docks. -a T.atk 
 Sprixo.-Auct.c I.:x....ukurs.-\Vm. Sa,x,.krs rx;.KK 
 
 iMKi; 
 
 -'.So 
 
 CHAI'TI'R IV. 
 
 Vu<,r rCKHKKOS.-ST JuHXS n.KoUK THK Pn<K. 
 
 "KiTi;'s" OKricia<s Axn Ckiav . 
 
 •Tin.: 
 
 2SS 
 
 CFIAI'TICR V. 
 
 I.KAvrxn St. Joiixs. 
 
 ^•'^. Tin-: N'i:ui-.iiM„.vx,, Coast. -.Sum, M,,x 
 ».('.s,s.-Tin.; Aiut.c Cnui.i: -Arkiv 
 
 A I. AT ( '.ODII \\x 
 
 J97 
 
1 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CH-VrTlvR V!. 
 OFnciAi. R-cooy.TioN or tiik Kxi-KniTioN.-AN Kskimu 
 
 ]^VY 
 
 CHAITKR VIl 
 
 The Cai>]; Y-jr!:. ani: Xr!r""MT J■'^>-r^r,,^: t-, 
 
 OF (iirT^.-MKKTix;; (^iHsoN, Dr. Cuok, am. Vkr- 
 
 307 
 
 Hoicn- 
 
 CIIAl'TKR \"in. 
 Xkws w vhk Ship's Akkivai. Tak!:x -,-,. Mrs. I'kakv- 
 KsKiM,, Sh.ns (,i- Ac;k -Attackix,; thk Icic-cAf 
 
 CIIAI'TI{R IX, 
 IX SMrni SorNn.-irAv,;s' U.nt,;k < .rAKTKRs.-T.nc Ici; 
 HARR,KR.-WA..Krs H, x,.x.;.--Thk Kta„ an,, OTHKR 
 
 KXTkl'Mi; XoKTilMRI.V vSllTTI.llMl'XTS 
 
 CH.VI'TI-.R X. 
 Cam..,x.;mx Ru,u,rts„x IUv.-T„, Ax,;hk.,k.-Thk rr,WTivK 
 Wrnc Axn I)Ar,;HTKK.- -A r<,ssn. (u.acikr 
 
 CHARTl'.R XI. 
 TUK RKr.,KF Kx,M;,.rr,nx .Uk,.:s a Rkcuxx„issaxck ok thk 
 lM..\xi) Ici;. Axi) .Miiirrs l.n 
 
 ASTRL"!> .... 
 
 3>S 
 
 329 
 
 335 
 
 350 
 
 'i;''T. 1'i:arv Axn Mr. 
 
 356 
 
 cii.\rri;R XII. 
 
 Tu:: PKAKv Rartvs U.xthk I.m.:.^ ,.av,xo ,x Storks.- 
 
 Tiii: Arctic .\ir,irr.-l'K|.:,.ARATi,,xs 
 JocRxicv.— Tin; Start 
 
 i'"R Tin; Ixi,.Kxi) 
 
 365 
 
6 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAI'TKR XIII. 
 Tjik Journky Ovkr tiik Inland leic. — Important Gko- 
 
 GRAl'IIICAI, DiSCOVIvRIlCS. — ( 'iRlUCNI.AND AN ISLANU. — 
 INDKI'KNDICNCI'; HAV. Till'; RlCTlRN 379 
 
 CIIAI'TlvR XIV 
 
 Thi'; " KiTiv" IN TRoriii.iv — Tiii': I'i'.akv I'vktv on lN{;i.i;i'ii;i,i) 
 (iri.i'. — Thiv Ki;i.iick I'autv in Camp. — .\ Muuchi.son 
 
 SolNI) CiI.ACIlCR. — IIlvWV CALIvS AND RoiCH Iv.X I'ICR I- 
 
 i;nci;h. — Mr \'i:uii()i;1'I'' Mi.s.sinc. — I'rmi'arations i'or 
 
 SlvARCH 398 
 
 CII.\PTER XV. 
 
 TiiH Si;arcii i'or Mr. Vi:riioi;i r. — How rr Wa.s CoNin ctkd. 
 
 — I'lVlv CfI.ACIICR VaM.ICV.— TraC1:S Ol' Till'. Ml.SSINC, 
 
 Man. — I'",vidi':ncks or IIi.s I)i;atii. — .\handonm1':nt ok 
 Tiiiv Si';ARcn 407 
 
 CHAl'TlvR XVI. 
 
 T.KAVINC, McCoRMICK I5a V.— SoRROWINO N ATIVK.S. — NKARLY 
 IClMiOlND. — .\. HlCAR KiM.lCD. — .VRRIVAI. AT CODIIAVN — 
 VANKICIv DOODI.Iv in (iRlCICNI.AND. — .\N AlRORA J 20 
 
 CHAPTl'R XVII. 
 
 GODTKAAU.— ThK 0I,D XoRSlOIIIX. — .\n K.SKIMO XKW.SI'AI'KR, 
 
 — Fari:\vi;i,i< to tiRi:i;Ni,AND . . 430 
 
 CHAI'TKR XVIII. 
 
 Thk " KiTK'.s" Ghost.— Thk Return to vSt. John.s.— Dkpart- 
 URK kor Philadelphia.— The Tkiumphai, Procession rp 
 THK Delaware. — Reception by the Academy of Nat- 
 ural Sciences 445 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
-"Si 
 
 
 ■^ 
 
 ^m 
 
 CONTENTS. 7 
 
 .\ri'i:Ni)ix I. 
 
 I'm: ri;AKV-\'i.un(ii.ii- CiiKui.si'oNiU'Nci., anh ()tiii;u Mat- 
 ti;ks 1\I,i. a tinc th John M. \'i,i{iiiii.ii', Tiii'; Missimv 
 Mi;Miii;i< (II' Till-; 1'i..\k%' Nmriii (',i<i:i:m..\mi I'.xi'iju- 
 
 TIKN If. I 
 
 AI'IMvNDIX II. 
 Ln:rr. I'l: \i<v's ki;i'oi<r. 'riii: Scii;ntiik- Ki;sri.Ts ni riiic 
 
 IvM'i;iilTinN —iMl'dk r\N r CoNCLrSIONS I)i:i)ici:i) IKuM 
 
 l)\i'A AM) ( )i'iSi;i<\ \ritiNs. A Kiaii.w oi' rui;\ii>is 
 
 AkCTU 1;M' 'iKATlKNS 4S2 
 
 Till-; Ri:ci:ri'i(iN at rm'. Ai:ai>i;m\' hi- Natikai, Scii^ncivS. — 
 
 Till'; iNvrn.D Ciri-.sTs 519 
 
 I.IM-I 1 NAN [• ri AKV ANII HIS CI IM PAN IONS. 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Thk "Kith- Amono tmh Rkros Fnwtispica-''' 
 
 I.iiirTHNANT l'i;.\RV AM) His Companions 
 
 Mai ok Grkicnt.axd, Showixg thk Locatiox oi.- IM:arv's 
 
 CamI-, with TIIIC ROITICS OF I'ICAKV, XORI.KXSKJOI.I, AM, 
 
 Xa\si;n ()vi;k thic Ixi.axd Ick ,2 
 
 LlIvlT. AM) Mks. I'ICAKV . . . 
 
 opp. 19 
 
 Cai'Tain Richard Pikic 
 
 Tiric Mi.;miu.;ks ok thi.; Wkst Grkkm.and Kxpkditiox . opp. 28 
 
 Ax AllAXDOXIU) ROAT 
 
 Thic .Midnicht .SfX 
 
 opp. 42 
 
 GODIIAVX . . . 
 
 45 
 
 IxsPKcToR's HorsK, GoniiAvx 
 
 Chapi;i, at Godhavx , . 
 
 52 
 
 XATivr: WoMAx Axi) Cinr.DRivx, Godhavx 
 
 VOINC. i;SKIM() GiRI.S AXD NaTIVIv IIl'T rg 
 
 SToRivHoisi.; AXD Groi,. ok Xativks, Godhavx 57 
 
 Bi.Aizv Daici. or Wixdv Vaijjcv g 
 
 I'l'ICKXAVIK 
 
 KajAK AXD I'ADDI.p; ... 
 
 80 
 
 A Kajakicr, Uim;kxavik ,, 
 
 ol 
 
 Dick Isi.axds 
 
 NiCST OK THK. KiDKR DfCK ' 
 
 A :\IlDXI(HIT SCI-.XI'. 
 
 thk"kitk' ix mki.v,u.k bay ; ; ; ; ; '^p; ^^ 
 
 Ix Arctic Attiri- . 
 
 102 
 
 Thk: Dkad Pni..\K I!i:ar . 
 
 . „ ,. 105 
 
 A GRtAT NORTHKRX Ici:i!|-Rr, 
 
 _, log 
 
 Thh Native Camp at \Vhai.k Sound ,,7 
 
 9 
 
lo //. L r 'S TRA riONS. 
 
 Kmi'ic with Ivouv Hi.adi'. ank Wooukn Ha.ndlk ii8 
 
 Ivory Tin ii8 
 
 KSKIMO KnIV1:S I20 
 
 I, AMI' MADI'; (II' SoAI'STONK 121 
 
 An Akctic Ili;i.i.|-. 122 
 
 IvSKiMo vStoM'; 1)\vi;i,i,inc.s ... ... 128 
 
 Tin: I'llAkV NdUTII (iI<|;i;NI,ANI) AM> WK.ST f iKKKNM.AM) I''.\- 
 
 I'MDITIO.NS ON A I'Lor; oj)]). I30 
 
 Lii;iT. I'l'.AUY'.s C.vMP, McCou.MK'K Hay 133 
 
 MoiNTAINS AND Ta lil.l'.I.A NI ) I5ACK Ol- I'llAKY'.S CAMI' . . . I38 
 
 s.mndiiu.'^ isi,.\n1) o])]). 146 
 
 Cai'Iv York 150 
 
 K.SKIMO HONI'. XKI'DI.K ... 153 
 
 .\ tikori' oi' Cai'IC York Ivskimos 155 
 
 i';sKi.Mo r.o\' 161 
 
 Si.i;i)('.ic 1^5 
 
 NATIVIv Drii.i 166 
 
 K.\JAK AND I'ADDl.i;, WlIAM'. SoiND 167 
 
 Row.s 16S 
 
 HoW-CASl'. AND OlIVI'.R 1 69 
 
 Arrows with lioNM Siiaits 170 
 
 Arrow.s vShowinc. rm; Splkinc, oi-- thI'; Shai'T and a Sin<'.i.k 
 
 SmAI.I. I'llATIIlCR . 170 
 
 Arrow-hi:.\d i'rom thp; Hayi;,s 1",xi'i:i)ition ov 1S60 .... 171 
 
 vSricAR OR Lancp: 171 
 
 Sri:.\R-i'oiNT.s 172 
 
 Spicar i'or Smai,i< Animals 172 
 
 Harpoon ok tup; .Most Xorthi;rn Eskimos 173 
 
 Harpoon-tips, Capic York 174 
 
 Attacking a Wai.ris opp. 174 
 
 Harpoon ok thk Disko Nativics, Showing thp: Throwing 
 
 vStick 175 
 
 Harpoon-tip, Disko 175 
 
 Air-bag 176 
 
 Toys Madk of Ivory 178 
 
 "Buzz Saw" or "Bui.i. Roari:r " 179 
 
njjrsTRATlONS. 
 
 'J'dS M.k Cl I'-AMi Hai.i, Cv.MlC 
 
 ClIAK.MS 
 
 N'\l<\VirAI. IIOKN 
 
 " AIrtKi;v" 
 
 ki:iii:u<, IN- Waicati: Ciia.\m:i 
 
 I'MI \K Ilk Wd.MA.N's r.DAT 
 
 A Hit uf ( ;i<k..:m.am. Suakuv-Disk.- M.am. 
 
 Sn.NM, Station St. J,,m.ns HAki...u . . 
 
 Kk.. Cut n.,rsK-,.,K,T. P.AkVs HKAUMr uTKks ' M.Cuk 
 
 MK'K I'.W 
 WaITINC, |.()k A 1,1. AD 
 A.SSISTANT(;..V|.;k.\.,k CAkSTK.NS, .,K D.SK.., IN 
 
 II 
 
 •79 
 
 rSo 
 
 iSi 
 
 IS: 
 
 i'<y 
 
 "I'l'' -MJ 
 
 2JI 
 2J9 
 
 TiiN 
 
 Till. "I'll,. 
 
 :Tll 
 
 '"'■; "KiTi;" AT Tin; WiiAki- in I'iiii.a 
 
 IIiMM,KKv Ic,.:--T.n.: "Kitk-s" FikTUKST i-.,int x„kt 
 1 111-: •• km; " in .McCok.MKK Hav 
 Iei;iii;kc,s in Wiiai.I'; Soi nd 
 
 " IIoMI-; .\C.AIN " — T 
 
 i>i;i.i'iiiA 
 
 \\ \TciiiNc. i-ok Si;ai, 
 
 Mitti;ns and I'lk Coi.i.Ak 
 
 •M(iTiii;k lAki;V,s CiiKKi vs ^' ' 
 
 ■ ■ ■ . 276 
 
 DITION, 
 
 \\ 
 
 27" 
 
 Tui; SKPAkATiDN Di; rin.; F1...HS-" 1',„.akis " i-n,. 
 
 '■^7-' 
 
 St. Johns llici-okr; Tin; I'ikio 
 
 Tin; I'lu.sT Ici;i!i;kc, . 
 
 \ViNTi;k IN Hic.ii I,ATiTrDi;s 
 
 W.VI.Kl-.S IIlCAI) 
 
 A f'.kori- oi- S);ai..s 
 
 SiiooTiNc, Si;.\i, 
 
 27s 
 2S9 
 201 
 
 294 
 296 
 
 o' 
 
 304 
 .-,1 16 
 
 An i;,skimo I'ii.ot 
 
 ('"ODIIAVN 
 
 Ici;-SAii,r\c, ■'" 
 
 SVAKTKN Ih-K -'"' 
 
 IvsKiMo.s AT Ri;i. Ci.iKi- llor.si.; \\ ;''"* 
 
 A WAI.kCS IIlCKI) ■^'•^' 
 
 CaTCIII.NC, AlK WITH XfT '''^^ 
 
 343 
 
^2 III USTRATIONS. 
 
 Kr\i.i;i.Nc. i.(»u W'Ai.Kis 
 
 ,, . 354 
 
 1 I.ANII.NC, A t.rini' POST ON TIIIC Ici:-CA1' ,c8 
 
 TlIM MKI.TIM; with t.,,.;, T. I'KAKV on- TKC IM VNI! Ick . ^,6l 
 
 LlIUT. I'ICAKV AM) NoKril CiRKI'NI.ANT) I'AKTV ...... ^6,8 
 
 NORTMKK.V DSKIMOS— WOMKN AM) Cl[IT,!)KKN ,69 
 
 ICsKlMO Si, lilt ... 
 
 r,?> 
 
 iMl'KIOIt O'.' AN IC.r.OO 
 
 .V5 
 
 C.VTCIIINC, I'ISH 'rilUor<,It Till' ICK 
 
 , ,. ■ ' .^// 
 
 icic li.oH ON 1n(',i,i;mi,i,i) (\v\,v .... ,«, 
 
 ,. 3'^ I 
 
 IVSKIMOS' I'OX-TKAI' . . 
 
 ,,,, 3»5 
 
 On Till.; Mu.MK Stki.;tch"-Sahjn(; Ovi:r TMK Ick-cap . 39, 
 I'Aci.; OK \ (;ui.:i;m..\m) (;i,.\cii.k .,,, 
 
 Mk. Mi;i;nA.v. am. Damki., Tin; ].:.skimo Inthri.kktkr . . . 403 
 Ici;hi:k(V oi'i.- Kohiirtson V>.\\ 
 
 Chart ok McCormick Day a.m. Si-rroundings, Ii.mstrat- 
 
 I.NC. TlIIv vSi:aRCH 1.()R VlCRlIUKKK 
 
 \ Wai.ms 
 
 421 
 
 N.\T!vi; Woman ok Codh.wn 
 
 A Troi'iiv (I'oi.AR I!i.;ar) 
 
 (lor.TIIA.Mi 
 
 , ,. 431 
 
 AN l',.SKiMo .\i;\v,si'.\n;R (I'acsimii.i.;) 
 
 IvSKlMo Col.oR I'UINTINC, (FaCSIMII.K) ,., 
 
 Tin.; I,.\,sT Ici;iii;rc. ... 
 
 .\.\(-> 
 
 IlARiioR OK .St. Johns, Tin: IIo.mk r..uT „k tiik "Km.:," . .,49 
 Dr. 1'\ a. Cook ... 
 
 455 
 
 I'.IVARII A.STRKP .... 
 
 457 
 
 Cl-.RIIKICATl-; OK SKARCir FOR Vkrh,,!.-,],-!.- 467 
 
 John M. ViCRiioi.;).-].- . . . 
 
 T , 475 
 
 Invitation Caki. to tiik; Rkcki-tion Tkndkrkd I.ikit. and 
 
 Mr.s. Pkary 
 
 521 
 
354 
 
 368 
 
 369 
 
 373 
 375 
 377 
 3«i 
 385 
 39' 
 401 
 
 403 
 411 
 
 4'3 
 
 421 
 
 423 
 425 
 43 > 
 437 
 441 
 446 
 449 
 455 
 457 
 467 
 
 475 
 521 
 
 1:1 
 
 H'-n 
 
SHOWIN 
 PEARY. ^ 
 
 Compifei 
 
 CoJth, 
 
MAP or GREENLAND 
 
 SHOWINGTH.LOCATION0.PEARYS CAMP 
 WITH THE ROUTES OP ' 
 
 PEARY. NORDENSKJOLDandNaNSEN 
 
 OVER THE 
 
 INLAND ICE. 
 
 Compiled from Official sources for 
 
 .La no' Reports'^ 
 
 C DeSOLAT/OIll 
 
 '■k^^-Ks^ 
 
 CAPE 
 rAHEWaLC 
 
iiHiMHBS&aiisaiiaiB 
 
PART I. 
 
 The Voyage of the Kite 
 
mMiUBt 
 
 ''^. 
 
nfjt tjT. \t.^.,li. . 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 IX 1886, Lieutenant Robert K. Pear\-, of the Enjj^inecr- 
 ino- Department of the United vStates Xa\->', liavin<^ 
 secured leave of absence, took i)assas;e on tlie steamer 
 l-'alcon from St. Joliu's, Newfoundland, to Disko, in 
 Greenland. The Falcon was bound on a whalinji^ trij) 
 to Lancaster vSound, at the head of P.affiu P>ay, but her 
 captain agreed to put the lieutenant ashore at Disko 
 and call for him on his return voyage in the fall. Lieu- 
 tenant Peary desired to examine the unknown interior 
 ofU.reeland, and took this means of reaching his destina- 
 tion. In due time he landed and nuide preparations for 
 his journey. With oul\' a single companion — a Danish 
 otTicer who, when the I'^skimos refused, had volunteered 
 to aecouipany him — the lieutenant scaled the steep cliffs 
 which ever\wherc separate the known from the uukuowu 
 laud in (ireenlaiul, ancl set his foot on the mysterious 
 ice cap. 
 
 .Ml (ireeuland, as iar as it has been explored, with 
 the exception of a strip bordering the coast, is one \ast 
 glacier. What are called glaciers on its shores are 
 merel\' tongues of ice pusla-d out into the ocean l)y the 
 great weight of a couliuent of ice behind it. I'rom tlie 
 extreuie north lo Cape b'arewell is one \ast sheet, the 
 
 15 
 
i6 
 
 LvrA'onccT/o.v. 
 
 product of centuries of snow-storms. This ice sheet is 
 comparatively level, the inequalities of the mountains 
 and valleys bciuj;' almost entirely obliterated by the uni- 
 form coatin!^' of ice. Only the "gradual rise of the land, 
 from the level of the sea to an altitude of about six thou- 
 sand feet in the interior, is preserved. Here and there, 
 in the interior, mountain-peaks push their way throu<;h 
 the enormous blanket of snow and ice, but except for 
 these landmarks the siu'face is an almost level plain. 
 Across this surface Lieutenant Peary made his wa>' due 
 east for about one hundred miles. The journey, thouj^h 
 made under u^reat difficulties, was without dan!.;er or 
 extraordinary fati<;ue, and served to confirm him in his 
 belief of the correctness of a theory which he had formed. 
 This theory, in brief, was that the true way to solve the 
 many problems which (ireculaud otTers to i^eo.tjraphers, 
 and at the same time to reach the most northern jioint 
 attainable b\- man, was to journey overland on its fro/en 
 surface, instead of allemptinj^ to work one's way north- 
 ward alou}^ the shores. 
 
 It was several \ears after this first exploration that an 
 opportunity offered to definitely prove his theor\-. In 
 the mean time Xansen had succeeded in crossini:;; the con- 
 tinent from east to west, althouoh at a i^oint below the 
 .■\rctic Circle. The re]X)rt of the condition of the interior 
 by this explorer a.^reed with what was fi)un(l by Peary. 
 A comparatively suu)oth ice cap covered the entire 
 breadth of Oreenlaud, at least at that point, and there 
 was every reason to su]ipose that the same condition pre- 
 vailed still farthrr north. 
 
ce sheet is 
 
 
 mountains 
 
 
 'y the nni- 
 ' the land, 
 
 
 six thon- 
 
 
 ind there, 
 
 
 ■ tlirono-Ii 
 
 !^^jM| 
 
 ^'cept for 
 
 '* 
 
 •el plain. 
 
 3 
 
 wa>- dne 
 
 -s 
 
 1 thoii^i^rh 
 ino-er (,r 
 
 f 
 
 111 in his 
 
 
 torincd. 
 
 
 olve the 
 
 
 'apliers, 
 11 point 
 
 f1 
 
 iiorth- 
 hat an 
 
 i 
 1 
 
 y. In 
 
 
 le con- 
 
 J 
 
 )w the 
 
 ? 
 
 iterior 
 
 'l 
 
 \-ary. 
 
 
 entire 
 
 
 there 
 
 
 1 l)re- 
 
 
 It is not necessary to detail the niodifieations wliich 
 were made of tile ori.i^iiial j^lan projected 1)\- Lieutenant 
 I'earw His aim was to attain the most nortlKrn point 
 yet reached by man. This was 83^ 24' north latitude, 
 and was made b\- Lockwood and Braiiiard in 1.S.S2. 
 
 To do so he required several things: I'irst, he needed 
 to be landed at a i)oint as far north as possible, from 
 which an expedition could start; then lie must winter 
 ill this locality, so as to take ad\-aiita<;e of the earliest 
 possible opportunity to start on his northward journey: 
 he had so to arrau<;e matters as to make such "caches" 
 of food and provisions in the fall of the vear as would 
 obviate the necessity of carryiuo with hini all the sup- 
 plies that ini.<;ht be necessary for the jouriie>-; fiiialK-, he 
 must provide some means of retreat to a civilized settle- 
 ment, whence he could carry back his parlv, together 
 with any records t)f discoveries that he niioht make. 
 
 To the expedition he was willing- to contribute his 
 private fortune, but more would be recpiiied. In order 
 to ])rosecute his researches he needed, besides, the i)ul)lic 
 su])port of some distin<,niislied institution and leave of 
 absence from the ,oo\eriiiiieut. 
 
 (Government aid was out of the (luestion. The sad 
 result of the (',reel\- e.\-])cditiou had been too receiuK' an- 
 nounced to warrant any ho]H' of help from that quarter. 
 The lieutenant, after several rebuffs, lectured befon- the 
 American ( ieoi^rrapliical .Societv of Xew York and the 
 Academy of Natural Sciences of Philadelphia. lie en- 
 listed the sympatlu- of and receiwd such substantial sup- 
 l)ort tVoui these bodies that the expedition was finally 
 
1 H 
 
 i8 
 
 /\VAU)/)r(//i).v 
 
 sc'iU tinder llic auspices <;t" the lasl-nained institution. 
 The desired leave of absence was obtained, and friends 
 of the lieutenant and the AcacL-niy provided the funds. 
 It would tie dinicnlt, if not altosa-ther unnecessarx', to 
 explain how the ori<;inal plan of Lieutenant I'earv to 
 reach his desired point and there deposit the supplies he 
 would need was modified. l{ventuall\' it was determined 
 to send out an exploriui^ expedition by the .\cademy of 
 Natural vScienccs. This expedition was to charter a 
 ship, carry Lieutenant Peary, his j)art\-, and such mate- 
 rial as he deemed necessary, and land them on or about 
 the shores of Whale .Sound or In<;lefield Gulf, in latitude 
 7(S'^ north, and there leave them. On the return voxage 
 the Acadeniy party, accordin.y; as time and opportunity 
 permitted, proposed to make investi.y;ations of the land 
 and its natural history, and brinjj^ back such specimens 
 and information as mi*;ht be of value to the Academy. 
 The sujiplies for the projwsed inland journex- and the 
 means of returninj^ to civilization were to be provided by 
 the Lieutenant himself. These included a su])ph- of 
 provisions sufficient to last his party, after the landin.ij 
 had been made, for at least ei<j;hteen months, exclusive 
 of the fresh meats which he mi,<j;ht obtain on the voya^^e 
 or at his camp. A portion of the ship's supjily of coal 
 was also left with him, and, besides this, buildin,i; mate- 
 rial s'.ifficient to construct a small house was carried, 
 to.i^ether xvith two lari^e whale-boats, fitted for dra<;<4inj^ 
 over the ice, ro\vin,i;, and sailini^, in which the retreat 
 of the jxirty was to be attempted in the summer of 1892. 
 He had also a full .supply of scientific instruments, snow- 
 
 ■m 
 
 1 
 
•'•^ 
 
 f' 
 
tA 
 
 > 
 
 ad 
 
 U 
 
 a 
 
 
 > 
 < 
 
 S 
 u 
 to 
 
 H 
 
 y, 
 
 O 
 
 r. 
 2: 
 
/\/A'()/>/ i //OX. 
 
 J') 
 
 
 sliofs, imjilctiK'tits fiT Iiunliii},', etc., nnd warm clotliiii};. 
 lie- had li()])i.(l to Mi])])It.iiR'iit his supijlits by llic ohlaiii- 
 iiiL; <il' ICsUimo <;;ui(k's, doj^s, and skdj^cs al (lodliaxii. 
 In this he was disnpiJoiiitcd, as were also liis expecta- 
 tions, to some extent, in the snpph- of Iresh meal. ( )thiT- 
 wise all that he desired was taken to McCormiek I'axand 
 left on its shores. 
 
 'IMie leader of what is <^a'nerally known as tlie I'eary 
 l-'.xpedition adopted the title of the Xorth (ireenland 
 Ivxpedilion of 1S91-92. Tlie Academy parly, therefore, 
 dislin,<4nished itself as the West (ireenland Ivxjieditioii 
 of iS()i. lioth expeditions were under the command of 
 I.ienlenant Peary until lie left the \essel. Later, the 
 West (ireenland Expedition was in charge of Professor 
 Anj^elo lleilprin. The personnel was as follows: 
 
 North CiKi-;i:xi.A.\i) Ivxri'.DirioN oi' iS9i-(j2. 
 
 Licntcnant R. Iv. Pearv, the commander of the Xorth 
 (ireenland Ivxpcdition, is a native of Pennsyhania, bnt 
 has lon<2^ been a resident of the .State of Maine. He is 
 abont forty years of a,i,fe, and spare bnilt bnt hardy. lie 
 occnpics in the oovernment service the position of ci\il 
 eni^inecr, l)ein<j^ attached to the Xav>' Department with 
 the rank of lieutenant. 
 
 His wife, Mrs. Josephine Diebitsch Peary, was a resi- 
 dent of Washin,y;ton, I). C, and is a mend)er of a well- 
 known fainil\- of that cil\ . She accompanied her hus- 
 band on his perilous jonrne\-, and has remaim-d over 
 winter at the northern headtpiarters. .She is probably 
 the first white woman to winter in such a hi<;h latitude. 
 
 3 
 
ao 
 
 /\/-AUi/>f\-/V().V. 
 
 I/iiij^doii dihsoii, of I'Mushiiij^, Loul; Island, is about 
 twenty-four \i-ats of aj^v, \)v'\n^ tall and nuisiMiIar. aii<l 
 acted j^eiicralK' as Litiitfiiant IVary's chief assistant. 
 
 ICivard Aslrnp is a N'orwcj^ian, and had onl\ li\fd in 
 the Ignited St;itcs for a few months when he volnnleend 
 for the cx])cdition. He is skilled in the use of the "ski," 
 as the pectdiar snow-shoes of Norway are called. 
 
 John M. N'erhoefT is a native of Lonisville, Kentucky, 
 and acts as the niineraU)<j[ist of the part\'. 
 
 Dr. I'\ .\. Cook is the snrj^^'on of the part\', and a 
 ^radnate of the Colle^a- of IMiysicians and ,Snrt;eons of 
 New York. 
 
 Matthew Ilensen, who acted as Lientenant lVar\'s 
 servant on the hitter's trip across Xicaraj^na, accom- 
 panied him to the North. He is an active, intellij^ant 
 yonn<^ colored man, and was formerh' a resident of Phila- 
 delphia. 
 
 WKST (iUKKM.AXl) Iv\I'i:i)I'ri()N. 
 
 Prof. Anj^clo Heilprin, the leader of the West (ireen- 
 land Ivxpedition, was the cxccntive cnrator of the Acad- 
 em\- of Natural Sciences. A native of Anstro-Hnn<;ar\-, 
 but lonjj^ a resident of Philadelphia, his reputation as a 
 <j;eolo<;ist is world-wide. He is the author of numerous 
 works which are acce])ted as standards on the sul)jectsof 
 <^eolo<jy and ,y;eneral natural historv. 
 
 Professor IJenjamin .Sharp ac'.:M';ipanied the expedi- 
 tion as zoolosj^ist in char^^c; Ik- is the corresponding:^ 
 secretary of the Academy, a .graduate of the Tnixersity 
 of Pennsylvania and of Wurzburg, and had made a special 
 
/.\ / /yU>/ >/■(■//< I.V. 
 
 -'I 
 
 cad- 
 ir\-, 
 IS a 
 ous 
 ^of 
 
 ii'di- 
 
 ■sily 
 ■cial 
 
 stii(l\ of iiu t rli.l)ialf zooloj^y at llu- Xaplcs Zoological 
 Slalioii. 
 
 riotVsx)!- j. 1". Unit is iIk' Professor of N'atiiial Ilis- 
 tcUA ami Ihj^iiiu' at the (V'litral Ili.uli Sfliool nl' riiiladcl- 
 pliia. lU' accoiiipaiiifc ilu- i-xpi'dilioii as its /.ooloj^isl. 
 
 I)r. William i'".. IIui^lus was tlif oriiitlittlov;ist. Ik' 
 was liktwisc' a ,i;radiiatf of tlu- riii\iisity ol' iViiiisyKa- 
 iiia, and a wc'll-kiiow ii piai-tilioiiir of im-diciiu' nf I'liila- 
 (k'll)Iiia. 
 
 Mr. lA\i \V. Mi'ii^il, till' ttil(tmolo,nist, is a ivsidi'ut 
 of Riadin^, riuii^N 1\ aiiia, and is will kiniwii as a rol- 
 kc'tnv of k'pidoplira. 
 
 I )r. William II. Iliirk, thf botanist, was a ^radnati' of 
 till.' CniwiNity of IV nns\ l\ania, and is onf of tlu' asso- 
 (.-ialr cilitors of the IMiila<l(.'l])liia /'///'//'( /.^ v/;v/-. 
 
 Mr. .Mrxandrr C. Krmaly, a son of tlu' crliliralud 
 nu'ndni- of Parlianiinl, was (k'taiUd li\ llu' .\', a' )-'//• 
 Ihiahi to ac(.'ompan\' tlii' fxpcditiou as its corrispond- 
 
 Llll. 
 
 Mr. lM-,i/.(.r .\shliurst is a nKinlur of a wrll-kuown 
 riiilack Ipliia finiily. and accompanird tlu- (.•xptdition 
 tliron..;Ii a lo\r of advriilnrc' and tra\cl. 
 
 Dr. Rolifrt X. Kicly, Jr. , tlu- suri^ron to the rxindi- 
 tion. was a i^radnati' of the Jflfrrson Midical Colk^i.' nf 
 IMiihuk'lpliia, and had liad an vxtL^nsiw fxprriiiici.' in the 
 lios])ilals of Paris. 
 
 Till' nicnibfrs of the fX]n(litiou wtiv coin])arati\cl\- 
 yonnt; nu-n, l)iil all acTuslonu-d to trawd. TIu'n- fornud 
 a most C( iimaiial coriipan\\ and lasting- friendships were 
 tornied on the lonij \-o\a''e. 
 
ftW^avirl-: 
 
 22 
 
 i.\ rk'(Uu '( //D.v. 
 
 Tlir rxi.r.liti,.,, left Ili.M.klvn, X. V. , 011 ju,u- Ml,, ,,„ 
 tlu- Arc-lie- wlialin- slc.inur AV/,, wliiili I,a,l Ihci, c|,ar- 
 U-n-,] lor llu- i.urjM.si. fn.iii r,.,\vrin.- lin.s. ..f St. lohu's, 
 Xc-wtoundlaiKl, I.v tlu- Aradcinv ..f Xatnial Srinu-cs,' 
 with a nvw (,r lHuvn men, iuc-IiuliuM d,,, captain. SIu- 
 ivtiinir.l t,. St. joliirs .,11 All-list 2,vl. Tlu- I'can i.artv 
 lia<l luvii laihK-.l at Mc-Cniiic-k Ilav, in latitude- ;; 
 ■ \y n.ntli, and llic iiuiiiIkis „r tlu- \\\st Crcniland Kx- 
 IH-diti.,n nlnnu-.l t.. I'liiladc-lpliia In wav ..f Ilaltinuuv. 
 i)nrin.- tlu- v(.va-c- tlu- rxpcditioii had ratlu-r rxcrp- 
 ti<'"al I'.ic-ilitirs InrrNauiinino ,|„. hahits and nistoins of 
 tlu- natives, csprc-iallv tlu>sci,, 1 lu- \ iciuitv of Capr N'oik. 
 Tlu-v JH-lnn- t.. a nu.si inl.-rcst in- racr, and tlu- lartsdis- 
 ruvrivd nuuvniino tj„.„i w,H .vpaid tlu- altrnlion thus 
 'K'v..tr,l. I,ai-c- nnnilK-i. ..f (-11, iusitic-s, wrapmis, dn- 
 
 •ack Ironi tni-st- 
 "1 in tlu- In]],, win:.; i>a.L;\-s 
 
 iiu-stic iitriisils, and t(.\s wen- hinii-h 
 
 distant it--i()ns. Tlu- discripti, 
 
 is, tlu-u-lo,v, ,,(.1 nu-ivl\- a naiiatiw ,,ra \ ..n a-c, l.nl in 
 
 c-IiuK-s alsn s..nu- acconnt of tlu- native-, and tlu-ir nis 
 
 Idins. 
 
 
 
f 
 
 -'I 
 
 THE vova(;h oftiiiv -kith." 
 
 CIIAI'TJ'-.R r. 
 
 TnKSTAKT. r\i-r\iM>iisi: oi k rK,:u Tin: I, an ■ i:^ \s- 
 
 -■i:>.'m: Akiuvm, \tSm,m;v. Cmjs,. ,:,,k ,11;. \u^ a,,,;. 
 
 A T ''I-. wric- <.rr In, the Airlir n-ions. ;nul locked ,,nr 
 1.1.1 0,1 Xrw Vuik li;„l..,r while, ilu. ,.,,,,,,1 ,,,.,, 
 .'hv,.vs ussciiihl.-s ,„, a wharf nii mu-I, orrasjons .^avc- 
 Ii^-.iMx- c'lurrs, .111.1 I'ounlKss skaiu-wlii^l Irs a.l.K,l -luir 
 Huisx lauwdls. The- ship dial was t.. ram us llinlur 
 w.i- Ih'. AV/,, ail Aivli.- straiii-wlialn an<l s.aln ,,|- 
 l\v.> liiiinhr.l a, 1.1 ci.^hiv t,,iis, whirli, lli.„i...li .inall, was 
 ^"'"'"••''''^ '"'"^■•1 ^""1 -i<-i..;.u-.l r.,r th..- pmpnsc-. ' Slu- 
 w.i. Urhuiralh kii.,wii as a hark, ut in.-; ihal is I., sav, 
 ''■"'■''' "l"^"'^' -''■'- "" Iht r.Mvmast, will!,, iju- uunu- 
 ^"1,1 nii//rn-ii,aMs w.av ^ ri.^.^cl I,.,.- aii.l al!'- ,,, 
 >Hio.„UT iash„,„. SIu- was a siaun.li lillK- vcss.l, ,,,i,l 
 wrsn.Mi hanu-,1 I.>a.liii,,r lur s^au.,, I liiiass a. u.H ;,s 
 '"■'• >t.vii^ili. TlK- assi.iaut cn^nuri, M,, MrKmKv. 
 ■di-w.-.l us, s.HmaHullusi;,,-! was nia.K-, l„.w lu, l„,w,' 
 '■•'■ six .„- ri^ht Kri hark Inm, t h,- p„ ,w, was a ,iiass,,|- 
 
 ^'■'i^; !i"\v lur liiiiiHi., cii, Mill. Mis r,„ ihr .i/,- ,,r ii,r 
 
 vcssd, Nvea- h..llc.l an.l kcAcl l-.^.tlu., ; |„,w Uu- ui- 
 
24 
 
 /.\' .lA'c'/vc s/:.is. 
 
 jj^iiR'S, 1]i()Ul;Ii small and coiiipacl, were fulh' C()in])ctent 
 for llic scr\icc tliL'\- wrrc to prifonn; lold us liow the 
 prdpc'lU'r ^vas of ])ull-nK-tal, bL-iii.^ dc-c-pK- suukni to 
 a\-oi(l (lan.i^vr iVoiii lloatiii.^ icr ; and (.-xiilaiiRMl oiIkt 
 points about Ikt that \vf appreciated much mure fully 
 when the attack on the ice bcpau. 
 
 cAi'iAiN i;i' II \u:' iiKi., 
 
 Of all the shiji's conipa.ny, I particularl\- admired 
 Captain Richard Tike. lie \\a^ the mo>t expeiieuced 
 ice-sailor on lioard. Ilesides haxin^ made mauv xoy- 
 
■I 
 
 'nil-: ]())\ !(,/■: oi- ////; av//-;. 
 
 I 
 
 niiii.ll 
 Iciu'c'd 
 
 a.q'cs as ri wliak-r and sralrr, 1r- liad llu- Iioiior to l)c' 
 niaslrr of llit.- /'/-('/(/is wlicn il carried ilu' nntortnnalc 
 (irc'd)- cxpL-dition lo its winlLT Iioinc al I'orl Con^c-r, 
 ill iSSr, and had also carried n]) tin.- cxiicdilioii of Ij't-n- 
 Uiian!. ( iarliii.nlon, whicli allenipUil lo ixdiexc (IrcLlv 
 in i''^'^,v ill IIk-' saiiK' \(.-ssel. 
 
 ( )n that jonrii(.-\- tlic /VvAv/.v was cnisln.(l in the ice 
 near Ca])c Sabine, July .2_^, iSS:;. 'Idle \oya.i;ers ne\er 
 tired of ha\-ini;- the old captain tell of this terrible ad\eii- 
 t'lre, nor of his really wonderful retreat to rperna\ik, 
 lra\'e!liii,n- six hundred miles, in open wliale-hoals, across 
 a sea filled with ic(.-])er.i;s and lloe ice. It wa> often 
 iiecessarx', he sai<l, to nnload the l)oat> and drai;- tluni 
 o\'er lon'4' stretches ol ron^h ice for miks to reach an- 
 other lead, then transport their pro\ision<, and lauiudi 
 the boats aL^ain in the tortuous pas.^a^e- of tlK' Mcl\ille 
 \\:\.y ]>ack. 'Idiis, of conrse, was a se\ere task, and too 
 oftLii when coiii])leted would be loiiiid of little ad.wmla^c- 
 to their proL^ress. He said that he lUA'ta' lo>t heart but 
 once. Thi^ was aft(.a' a da\' of sewie labor, wluii the boats 
 had been drawn nj" on ;m iceberg- and the\- ]ire]Mred to 
 "cinip," if cainpiiii; it could be called, fi>r a hard >toMn 
 of --leel and hail wa> ra^iiiL^, ;uid it \\a-> impossible to 
 build au\- hre. .\s tlie\- weix- about to lie down to sKep 
 on the ice lluax' w(.ae ii inn i'^iak able >i^ns ol tin- I'nllap-'e of 
 the iceber:^. The work wa> all to do owr ;iL;aiii. Tliev 
 iiiust load and laiincli the boat, and, pnll off in llie storiii\- 
 Sea for a safer restim;-i)lace. 'Idii-' tlie\ fiiiiKl at la^t on 
 an ice-lloe, ;nid tlu' UK'n, worn out 1i\ their labor, threw 
 themselves down with sc,irci.l\ .in\ preparation and went 
 
26 
 
 A\' ,lk'C/7C s/:.is. 
 
 fast ask'cp at once. lie himself, he added, was "too 
 tired to sleej)," and in utter niiser\- and tlespair sat up, 
 tliinkin^- of lionie and family, until they awoke. 
 
 On reaehin*.;^ Upernavik they were well treated by 
 the Danes, and in a few weeks were lujuieward bound 
 on the United vStates vS. .S. )'<vi/i(\ which was to have 
 accompanied the Proteus^ but had Ijeen unable to force 
 its way thronj^h Melville liay. 
 
 Captain Pike was a txpical Xewfoundlander, and 
 thoutrh nearl\' si\t\' \ears of at;e was as active in mind 
 and 1)od\- as manv men of half his \ears. His face 
 beamed with <4"eniality and i^ood nature, and though his 
 whitened hair and ru.^'^ed face showed marks of the 
 hardships he had experienced as a whaler and sealer, it 
 was yet frank, ojien, and intelligent, as a s^ood old sea- 
 captain's fice out^ht to be. All of us re])osed the utmost 
 confidence in him, his directions and advice bcini^ strict- 
 ly obe\ed and followed without (|uestiou b\- everxoue, 
 inclndinf; Lituteuaut I'eary himself. IK- was a L,'ood 
 navii^ator, and did his best to impart some of his know- 
 ledge to "his boys," as he affectionatch- called the 
 younger members of tlu- expedition. 
 
 It was, howLAcr, for his friendliness and ]x\tieuce that 
 we admired him most, .\lwa\s j.';enial and e\cn-tem- 
 l)ered, whether the shi]) was jammed in the ice in Mel- 
 ville I)a\' or tied up to the wharf at vSydney or vSt. John's, 
 wdiethcr the sea was smooth or rou^h, his manner toward 
 us ne\er chan<4ed. ( )n deck he was the ex]>erienced 
 Arctic seaman, e\er walchlul for danger, \ et e\'er scorn- 
 in;^' peril ; between decks he was a lu-arl\', whole-souled 
 
that 
 k'ln- 
 Jel- 
 |n"s, 
 anl 
 lcc-(l 
 pril- 
 led 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 51 
 
 /■///•; I'd): !(,/■: o/-' ////■: k/ii-:. 
 
 27 
 
 companion, oUk-r in }cars bnl youni^cr in >piiil than any 
 one of ns. 
 
 IvKvard Tiac\-, ihccliief mate, was an excellent na\i- 
 !Li;ator, with lart^e experience in tra\el in icy seas, lie 
 was e\cec(lin,<4l>' watchful and attentive to his duties, hut 
 nevertheless found time to instruct and entertain us. 
 Patrick Dnmphy, who acted as second mate, was a 
 stnrd\' ice-pilot, and steered the ship through the nandw 
 and tortnons passages in the ice-pack with great >kiil 
 and discretion. 
 
 We had two engineers, William Jardine and his assist- 
 ant, Alexander McKiuley. Mr. Jardine was a man of 
 superior knowledge and large experience. At lir>l he 
 was somewhat reser\e'l, hut after he had become thor- 
 oughl\- accpiainted with us showed his coiii])auiiiiia- 
 hilit\' as well as the lorce of his intellect. Ik' was an 
 (.■xcelleiit metdianic. as was :ilso his assistant, Mr. Mc- 
 Kinley, who likewise was whole-souled and g'uial. 
 Their ahilitx and .skill are shown hv llie fad thai, al- 
 though the engines of the Kilt wire niau\ \(.ars old. and 
 rcjieatedh' sulijected. in the- course nf the \ii\age, lo the 
 most sever*.- strains at hrjtf iiuervals. iVoiu full sjii'ed 
 ahead to full sp(.'ed asl(.'ni, tin- entire run of more than 
 six thousand miles was made with oul\- a single stop- 
 page for re])airs. and this oiil\- di.la\'ed us about an hour. 
 It w.is to their watcht'ul care aloue that this most satis- 
 factor\' ri-sult was due. 
 
 .\ lull list of the crew was ;is follows : Cai'tain. Rich- 
 ard I'ike; chief mate. I'.dwaid TracN'; sieoiid mate. Pat- 
 rick Dumphy: chief engineer. William Jardine; second 
 
28 
 
 /A' .lA'C'/VC s/:.is. 
 
 eii^iiicL-r, AkxandcT McKinlcN'; steward, Lawrence 
 Hacke-ll; assislanl steward, Patrick Wel.sli; conk, 
 Tlioiiias Pfellcr; scaiiR-n, 'J'imotliy 'i'ooiK'v, Tlionias 
 Collins, John Ciniiniin^, John W-rs^c; fnx'nKMi, Andrew 
 Roost, I'Mward Crook, John Cnnnin^liani. 
 
 Tlu- \()\a,L;e from liriw'klyn to Xortli Sxihu-y was nn- 
 f\eiitfnl. ( )ncc in a while sonu' one wonld remind ns 
 that the land we saw was histiK'ic or romantic, bnt we 
 were far off sIkmv, and e\en tlu' reminder of the fact that 
 we were passint; the home of I'Aan^eline, where, 
 
 " In ll'.r lian 1 iikI, ciii the sIkut of tlie liasin nf Miiias, 
 
 \)i< 1 .iilrd, still, tlu- Hull.' villa,L;\- 1)1" ( irand Tie 
 
 I.a\ ill a tVuilful vallt.-\ , " 
 
 failed to .Lrou>e entlui: i ism. 
 
 W'e wen.- compelled to enter either St. John's, Xew- 
 fonndland, or S\(lne\', on Cape lireton, to ohtain a snpiilv 
 of coal. The latter port was SL'lec-ted, lor sew-ral ri :,^ons. 
 There is a >mall anionnt on the northern side of I )i^ko 
 l>]and, ( Greenland, lint it is of |ioor ipialitx' and shaley, 
 and there are no pr<i])er nK-ans of ohlainim;- it. It was 
 of course prek'rahle to coal at as far northern a point 
 as possihk'. This we ap])recialed more fnlh' when 
 tlu' hold and e\eii the liel ween-decks of the /\'/7r 
 Were fdled, with what was by no means an exlra\aj.;ant 
 snpph'. 
 
 .\s the harbor of S\(lne\- was entered we had onr first 
 chance to exaniint' cb isel\' the shores of a strange conntry. 
 At first ll.U and dnll, the >CLner\' became more and more 
 
awivncc 
 
 cook, 
 
 Th 
 
 oiiias 
 
 Audi 
 
 e-\V 
 
 was 1111- 
 miiid lis 
 
 , 1)111 \V(J 
 
 fad thai 
 
 lin; 
 
 'le 
 
 IS, 
 
 \ 
 
 (.W' 
 
 I supiiK- 
 
 ■»- tS( Ills. 
 
 I) 
 
 i.sko 
 
 sliak'\- 
 
 It was 
 
 |i ]»oiiit 
 
 w'Ik'U 
 
 Kilr 
 
 Iwiuiaiil 
 
 |r hr.sl 
 
 liiiilr\-, 
 
 lllOlL' 
 
 K !■ ^ K * 1 \ . 
 
 Till-: m»';miu:ks di- 'n\\\ wkst «;ki*:i':ni,am) i-.xi'i-.i»ith>n. 
 
 i 
 
'MH W — 
 
////■; I \) )'.!(,/■: (>/■' I III: kite. 
 
 29 
 
 ]->icturcsf|UC as \vc sailed nji llic Iiarhor. I'olli sliorcs arc 
 liij^li, and llic hi'lts ot stralificd rocks aiv clear and dis- 
 tiiicl. SaiUislDiic, limestone, and coal alternate in Itiny, 
 nearly liorizontal la\ers on llie opposite sides, and the 
 o;rcen snnnnits are further emhellislied by prettN- little 
 clinrclies, whose s[)ires tbrnied a series of beacons on e\'er\' 
 ])rojectin.i; clilT. 
 
 The town of vS\(lney is divided 1)\- vSpanish \\a\ into 
 three distinct settlements, Xorlli vSydnev, vSonth vS\(lney, 
 and vSydney ISar. These ])laces are six or si.\en miles 
 apart, and luue distinct local <;c)\ernments and po.-'- 
 offices, but are usually classified together as S\(lne\-. 
 A little steaud)oat plies from one to another e\ery half 
 hour tlirou,i;!i the da\', so communication is easw 
 
 ()ur ship la\- at \'ictoria Piers, near .South .Sydue\-, 
 where coal is easily secured direct from the mines. Some 
 of our part\ went to vSouth .Sydney, but a majorit\- took 
 the steamboat tor Xorth vSydnex', just across the bay. 
 Disai)pointed at not t^ettiui^- mail at the post-office, we 
 wandered through the town, purchasiiu;- little items of 
 supplies which had bi'eu forgotten in Xew \'ork. A 
 vSalvation Arm\- meetiiiL;- in the stret'ts attracted us s( lUie- 
 what, but otherwise the \illa!^e was dull and uniuter- 
 estiui;-. 
 
 The next da\-, lMida\, was eiitireh- consumed in 
 fiUiii"^ the coal-bunkers, the members of the two exjiedi- 
 tions in the meantime enjoyiu^' themselves in \arions 
 directions. vSonie visited the settlements, while others 
 exi)lored the natural history in the \ icinity of \'ictoria 
 Piers. 
 
3'^ 
 
 /.\' .lA'c/vc s/:.is. 
 
 Ill tln' aflfnioon llu- water of tin.' l)ay looked so [ileas- 
 aiu and iiuitiiii^r uid the sun was sliinin.s,'- so l)ri,i,ditly 
 that six of us took a phui.^c-, hut, as iiii<;lit liavc hecu ex- 
 IKTted, the water was found to be icy ojld, and a very 
 short exi)erience satisfied our hJn<'•in'^s. 
 
 I 
 '■5 
 
 1 
 
CIIAI'Tl'.R 11. 
 
 Chmssinc. Till-: C.ti.i' til' St. I, awkiinli:. <)ii( Imrst ki". An 
 .\nANi)()Ni;ii lliiAT. In tiii', Mii ..t oi' riii'; 1m, oi; Ni.w 
 
 lOlNlU, AMI 1'"ISIII;KM1;N. ()1-1' I'OU CAI'I-; DIXiI.AIIuN. 
 
 ^T 71"< left Sydney at >>.t,o v.m., June i2tli, the nio;Iit 
 » V l)L'in_or clear and the water smooth. The sln'i) 
 had heeii heavily loaded with coal, ha\in<.,'- taken on one 
 hundred and eijj^hty tons additional, which was piled 
 e\ erywhere. The hold and hunkers were full, and llure 
 was also a lar^e anioiint on deck, alto,L;etlier making; three 
 hundred and twenty tons, sufficient, it was hoped, to lake 
 us uj) to the far Xorlh and return. 
 
 Sleaniin,^- aloui:; the east coast of Ca]ie Iheton Island, 
 Svdney harbor was left behiinl and wt.- passed into the 
 (lulfof St. Lawrence. The onl\- thinj^ we saw during 
 the day was an American fishin*;-schooner which was 
 lyiUL;- at anchor. This was the last \essel sighted un- 
 til the harbor of (lodhaxn in (ireenland was reai-lied. 
 Toward e\-enin,t^ the wind ;uid wa\es rose and the ship 
 ])itche(l and rolled hea\il\-, niakin^ man\- of the ])art\ 
 seasick and the decks wet and nnconiforl.ible. The next 
 day the weather had moderated somi'what, but the water 
 was still rou_i,di. 
 
 We had b\- this time jiassed the entrance of the Clnlf 
 of .St. Lawrence and were approachin!^' the western coast 
 
/.\- .ih\-//c s/:.is. 
 
 (»!' .\«.\vU)Uii(llaii<l. As wr iKMifd tlu' I.iml \\\v sliorc was 
 stTii to he ni.i;i;c(l and picUnvsiiiU', with patches of 
 \-fr(hti"c' coiniii",;; to lla- water's cdj^e. ^hlll\■ small land- 
 birds i-anK' ahout tliL- ship, and siAiral lij^hti'd oil it, hut 
 only tvniaiurd a short tiiiu- and tlu'U tk-w landward. 
 
 All that day wc sailed aloiii; the N'ewrontidiaiid eoast 
 with land constaiUh- in si^ht. Ni.^lit coniin.i,^ on, 
 hroii!L,dit fo}^ witli it. This was so dense that it was 
 necessar\- to keej) the Iol;- whistle l)lowiii,i; until nioriiiiij4 
 in order to warn any possible lisherinan that iiiii;ht be 
 crnisini;- in the vicinity. 
 
 In the niorniii'' the weather was stiii fo<'ij:\-, and at 
 
 about 7 o'c 
 
 lock 
 
 sexeial pieces of ice a few feet in diain- 
 
 and was stroii'-K' si 
 
 eter were seen iloaliiijij^ ])ast the ship. This caused con- 
 siderable excitement, because it was the I'lrst ice seen 
 
 •esti\e of fiitnie ic\' experiences. 
 We had hoped to pass throtiL^h the Strait of I'elle Isle and 
 into the Xorth Atlantic uniin])e(Ied by ice, because of 
 IIk' favorable reports ol)tained at vSydney as to the strait 
 beinj; well open. It had l)een re])orted as iKU'i.LjabU: 
 a conple of weeks before ; but within an hour after see- 
 ing; the ilrst small piece we ran into liea\-\- pack-ice — so 
 heav\', indeed, that we were unable to steam throu.^h it. 
 The thickness of the weather ])re\-eiUed any sii^lit ol 
 the ice beiii!^' obtained before it had barred our ])roj^ress. 
 
 Thi 
 
 s, our first \iew of what is known as lioe ice, was 
 
 ll( 
 
 hi-dil 
 
 y ini])ressi\e 
 
 It was in the form of larue masses 
 
 jammed ti<;htly to>;ether, movin,^- up and down with 
 
 the w 
 
 :ives 
 
 and 
 
 ijrindinL'" auainst ea.cli other witli a ( 
 
 ith 
 
 lull. 
 
 nimblinu', mournful sound, resemblin<' surf breakiiuj on 
 
/■///; I (>)!(,/: !>/■■ I III Kill'. 
 
 ^S 
 
 k 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 ;i l(iiul\' shoiT. Tlu- --i.^lit i>r tlii'- iiiiiiuii--i.' .minimt of 
 icr >i> Midil al'UT K;i\ iii'^ lllr i[liirl wains ut S\iliu \ I'-.lN 
 alliiiiil u> i[uiU' iiiai kidly, and ,^a\(.' us soiiu' slight (.dii- 
 c\ plioii t'l what iiii.L;lit l>r (.xptrUd. \ iVw sra-i^tllls lliw 
 aliiuU lirif and iIkii', I'oiitriUutiiii^ to llu' \\i.iiiIiu->> nt" 
 llir >f(.iir. 'I'll add ti) tlu- .^liKiui, tlurr was siiii, souu" 
 distai'ax' aluad, an ahandoiicd huat. W'lu ni'f it canir no 
 (PUf kiuw It was c\idiiilly a rislictniairs \awl wliicli 
 liad 1)1111 i-ul llin>iiL;li 1)>' tlu' ii'i' and rasl adrift. It was 
 a poDr, useless wail in a sia of di'solalion, and wt- coiild 
 not l>Mi (.-.xin iiLiicf a partly snjKTstitious Urlin^ as wi- 
 pa»td it by. Was it a symbol ol" what nii.i^lit occMir? 
 
 \ 
 
 rill \l;\\l" iM |i !;■ I \ I . 
 
 \\'f rrUK'nihrn-d {\\v dreadful talrs wi- hid all re-, id of tlu- 
 fnial out con ir of so niau\- Arctic' cxpi-'ditions. iml ihoin^hl 
 ol' iIk- nuinhcrs of laithful uku who had lo^t tln-ir ]i\rs 
 1)\' such an accident as ha<l oNcrtakcu this l)o:ii, Scnti- 
 nunt, howcwr, had hut little enduring plaix' in -~uch a 
 practical conipanw \\'(.' stcauu-d a< near as po^sihU' to 
 the castawa\-, hut, findiui:^ no e\ideniH- of life. K'ft it to 
 its fate and ai^aiu made our wax toward the opi'ii water 
 tlial skirled the ice'-tloi.-, hojiiui^ 1)\' so doin;^ to liud a 
 clear clianne'l wliiidi woidd enable us to pass tlu- strait 
 and euieri^e on the open >ea. 
 
 The whole da\- was spent searching in \ain for sucdi 
 
tuiJwm.uiiJBrBrf^'nnKg.-Kifca-.-s^T'^ 
 
 34 
 
 /.\' .lA'c/vc s/:.is. 
 
 a channel, ,t^oin,Lj ])ack\vanl and forward from one side of 
 llic strait to the otlier, bnt nothin.i; was acconiplislied ex- 
 cept the obtainin.ij;- of views of the h)nely shores of Lal)ra- 
 dorand Xewfoundland. One channel, indeed, was lonnd 
 which ajipeiired to lead to o])en water hcNond, bnt after 
 following' it a conple of miles we ftMind onrsehes a^a n 
 blocked. The ice (|nickly closed hi behind ns, and we 
 were nnalde to adxance, onr retreat was cnt iAT, and there 
 was l)nt little jjrosjx-ct of beint;- able to escape tor sexeral 
 da\s. W'e were in the narrowest part of the Strait of 
 IJelle Isle, it beinj;- here bnt nine miles wide, and at this 
 ])oint the ice comin,!:; from the north becomes jammed 
 and interferes seriouslv with na\-i,nation. Onr jonrnev 
 conld scarceh' be said to have commenced, as we wire 
 onK' in the latitnde of 52 north, while f)nr nltimate 
 destination was in the neighborhood of 7S'. In other 
 words, we had accom]dished less than one-third of the 
 distance wc had desii^ncd to i^o, and this the easiest ])or- 
 tion of the jonrney, yet we were apparently com])letel\- 
 blockaded and with no \-isible ]irospect of release. .\t 
 times the ice wonld open a little, vlun some sli!:;ht ad- 
 vance wonld be made. Small clear patches of wati'r were 
 seen here and there, and on these were r unbers of dncks. 
 The\' were so tame and nnaccirsionied to beini;- molested 
 as to allow the ship to ajiproach cpiite close. We shot 
 man\', and fonnd them a desirable addition to onr ordi- 
 nary diet. 
 
 Later in the da\- the fo^' disajipcared, and we fonnd 
 onrsehes clo.se to the Xewfonndland shore. Here, near 
 tlie ed'-e of the water, were seen several small lionses or 
 
 ■^ 
 
« 
 
 
 ■////: ro): !(,/■: o/' ////; av//;. 
 
 35 
 
 :UI- 
 
 •cre 
 -;s. 
 
 lot 
 
 li- 
 
 111(1 
 ar 
 or 
 
 liiits, (.■viik'iitK those of the nali\(.- Xrwfouiullaiul fislKi- 
 iiKii. A l)i)at ciintaKiiii!^' three iiieii put oil from sliore, 
 aiiii alter eonsiderahle exertion in working through the 
 ice siK'ceeiled ill eoiiiiii;:; alongside the A '/A. 'IMux' 
 staled that main of the people were sick, and some had 
 (lied. The disease appeared to he epideiiiie, and from 
 wliat couM he learned iVoin them we judged it to he 
 analoL^ous to that known to us as *' intlnenza.'" They 
 said no ship had reached the settlement for many months, 
 and that they were sadls' in need of assistance. After 
 lia\ ini^ a Ioiil; talk we ,<;a\e them some medicines, and tluy 
 left ver\- i^ratefnl, taking- aloiii; letters from se\-eral of 
 the part\- Lo mail home, as a ship was expected to call in 
 ahdUt tell davs. These letters were recei\ed all rii^llt 1)V 
 the parlies to whom the\' were addressed, hut only after 
 a loni; dela\ , for the strait, as we afterward U'anied, was 
 clos(.'d for maii\' W(.'eks. 
 
 After our visitors had departed we made another des- 
 perate attempt to ,L;et the ship throu.^h the ice, hut wiiv 
 ai^aiii uusnccessful. In defiult of an\thint;- hetter to do, 
 we resorted to fishing' throui^h the fissures or leads in the 
 ice, and succeeded ill catching a niimher of lari^e codfish, 
 which furnished a line mess for sujiper and sii])plie(l ns 
 with iileiit\- of ^ood f )o(l for the morrow. Captain Pike 
 a>--ui\'(l us that we would haw ]>leiit\ of ^aiiu- and fri sli 
 meat on reachiiiL; ( iicenlaiid, which of course was wvv 
 (.•nconra^iiiL;- information. The nuMl ohtaiued at .S\diu-\' 
 was liuiii,^ u]^ from the cr(»s-lrees, as the wiMther was suf- 
 ficieiuK- cold to ]ivi.'>cr\e it willioiit re(iiiirinL;- to he stored 
 in an ice-chest. 
 
;: ij^-i...^.._,.^ 
 
 36 
 
 /.\' .lA'C'/VC S7:.IS. 
 
 Ilavin.t; found it iiupossil)le to proceed onward, the 
 ship was fastened to a lars^e floe on which was a j^ood- 
 sized pinnacle, for the purpose of securin<>; enou<;li ice to 
 replenisli cnir water-tanks. The sailors were some lime 
 in cuttin^^- and slorinj;- lar^e pieces which were to be 
 melted as fresh water was required. While th<y were at 
 work our ])arty wandered over the ice, indul^inL,^ in 
 snow-ballini^ oik- another and taking- photo<j;-raphs. 
 .Several ^ood pictures were obtained of the vessel as 
 seen from the ice-floe, and on our return to the ship we 
 all enjoNed a ^ood su])per of fresh codfish and jiotatoes. 
 To the north and south ice was seen as far as the eye 
 could reach; to the east was the Xewfouudland coast, and 
 on the west were the bleak shores of Labrador. 
 
 Ni«;ht setting- in found us still fast in the ice, with the 
 weather j^etlin^- colder, and we were ^lad to seek the 
 comfortable cabin with its cheerful coal fire. The sound 
 of the ,t;rindin,L;' and .^roanim;- ice was our lullab\- that 
 niu;ht. Xone of us regarded our position as serious; in- 
 deed, the ca])taiu, who was an old sailor in Arctic seas, 
 told us that it was a usual thin.^- up this wa\-, and was 
 owiui:; to a late sumuuM". We were all satisfied with this 
 explanation, and only ea^er to escape from our imprison- 
 ment. ( )ii OIK' of the two followin;.^- da\s, while still in 
 the ice-pack, some of the part\" \isited a lart^e iceber:.;' 
 about four miles awa\- from the \essel. The\- returned 
 (piile tired and exhausted, as clinibim;- oxer the ron^h ice 
 was no eas\- task. T1k\ had remained ;iwa\' so lon^' and 
 the weather became so fo,L;i;\- that the captain yrew nu- 
 eas\- as to their abilii\- to find the wa\' back. Two of the 
 
% 
 
 ii'i 
 
 ////■; I -()): !(,/■: of ////•; a///-; 
 
 37 
 
 
 X(.'\vfi)nii(llaii(l sailors were just al)i)iil startiiis;- in search 
 of Ukiii wIku tlK\' were (H.-^cerned approaching. Had 
 ihe Uy^ been a little cjuicker in coniin!,;- up, tlie\- wonld 
 ]irubablv Iia\e found it impossible lore.^ain the ship, and 
 would ha\e had to remain on the ice all ni.^ht. This 
 illustrates one of the difficulties and dangers of Arctic 
 travelling, and served to warn the less exjterieneed of the 
 risks incurred in wanderin.i;;- loo far awa\-. Later, the 
 weather havin<; cleared, it was found possible to force 
 the ship a few miles further through the pack, and 
 by workin.i; all ni<:;ht about lhirt\- additional miles were 
 made. 
 
 At this season of the year, in these latitudes, daylij^ht 
 be<4ins at 2.30 A. M. and lasts until 9.30 p. m., so there 
 was much more time to see to uaxi.^ate the shij) than 
 when farther south. 
 
 A strong- wind afterward sprint^injj;- up from the south 
 moved the ice, and the ship with it, in the direction we 
 wished to j^o. By tliis time we were (opposite the light- 
 house on Cape Xornian, which is the north-western 
 c.\tremit\- of Newfoundland. Althou<,di surrounded b\- 
 ice, and the temjK'ratnrc at 40 de.nrees I'ahrenheit, it did 
 not seem at all cold, and we were able to be out on deck 
 in our shirt-sleeves, with no heavier clothiniL;- on than 
 when we left home. This feeling- of warmth was attrib- 
 uted to the retlection of the sun on the ice, and the ex- 
 planation was made to appear all the nuire ])lansible ])\ 
 our i^a-ttini::^ much sunburnt during tlu- time of our con- 
 liuement in the ice-floe. vSooii after the sun went down 
 the air became markedh" colder and the thermometer de- 
 
 
3« 
 
 /.V .lA'C/VC S/C.IS. 
 
 scciuled to ahout or below frcezin<^-point, inakinj; us all 
 appreciate the comfortable quarters below decks. 
 
 The ice now became more broken and loose, and at 
 daylight we a.i^aiu endeavored to force our way throui^h 
 the floe. A strong wind from the sduiIi ha\in<; come 
 to our aid, assisted us in our pro<;ress. Hy noon we had 
 reached the southern end of Belle Isle. The li,s;ht- 
 house on the bluff ran up the British flaj^, which courtesy 
 was returned. Belle Isle is situated at the northern end 
 of the strait bearinji; the same name, and is a bold, rocky 
 island one mile wide and nine miles lou_t>-. The only 
 buildinj^s on it are two li_i;hlhouses, situated one at each 
 extremity, north and south. There is also a buildinj;; 
 near the southern li.H'ht, containiuj^ supplies to be used in 
 case of shipwreck. The li<;ht on the upper end of the 
 island is the nuist luirthern one on the eastern shores of 
 the .vmerican continent, there bein,u^ none in (irecnland 
 or Labrador. The former place is only accessible in the 
 summer months, and is situated .so far ufath that durini!^ 
 that season there is continual daylirjht, and thus the 
 necessity f<». a lij^hthouse does not exist. 
 
 The keepers of the lif^ht at Belle Isle must have 
 looked upon us as the harbiut^crs of summer, as the 
 captain said that our ship was undoubtedh* the first one 
 they had seen since the previous year, navit^ation closim^ 
 ill those waters early in November. We were all anxious 
 to };() ashore to leave letters for any passim^ vessel that 
 ini^ht call and take them on their wa\- south, but were 
 unable to venture out on account of the dau<^er of 
 attempting to force a small boat thnKigh the loose and 
 
////■; I (>):!(,/■: or ////•; ay//-; 
 
 39 
 
 .■s ot 
 
 land 
 
 tlic 
 
 the 
 
 lave 
 the 
 one 
 
 ions 
 ;liat 
 \xre 
 of 
 and 
 
 dan<;cron.s ice intcrveuiiit;- between ourselves and tlie 
 sliore. This ended onr ho]x> of sendin.ii,^ an\- fnrther 
 eonnnnnieations home, nnless we happened to liave the 
 >;oo(l hick to eneonnter a sliip on its way sonth. 
 
 As soon ;is tlie strait is kin)wn to l)e open this ronte to 
 the river and (inlf of St. Lawrence is taken l)y merchant 
 and fisliin.!^ \essels, ])ecanse it is the shortest l)etween the 
 Old World and the Xew. At this season of the year it is 
 <;enerall\' avoided, bnt on onr return voxat^e we ])assed 
 several \essels bonnd to the strait for cargoes of cod- 
 fish. These are cani^^ht and dried 1)\- the fishermen, and 
 afterward shipped to points in the West Indies, Central 
 and .Sonth America, and ICnrope. Ivirly in the season it 
 is coniparati\el\' rare that ves^^els attempt to force the 
 dan|!;erons i)assagcs of the vSlrait of I'.elle Isle. 
 
 There was a ]K)ssibilit\- of onr nieetint;- vessels bonnd 
 from the far Xorth, bnt this was extremely .m])rol)able at 
 this period of the year. Ahnost the onl\- ships that trav- 
 erse what is known as the (ireeiiland .Sea are whalers 
 on their wa\- home late in the season, and, farther north, 
 a few from Denmark [o their colonies in (ireenland. 
 
 Our CDurse was set a little west of north, heading for 
 Cape Desolation, which is sonuwhat to the westward of 
 Cape I'arewell, the most sontlu-rn exlri'initN' of ( irec'ii- 
 land. The passage across (irrmland ,Sea was e\pecte(i 
 to be accomplished in from six to eii^ht (la\s, provided 
 no (k'tention was occasioiKtl 1)\ the lev. which mi^ht be 
 encountered at an\' time, and the winds wrri' fudrable. 
 TIk' water beim^ clear of Hoe ici', wi' steamed at about ei^ht 
 knots an hour, haviii!.; the wind in nur fa\or. The look- 
 
—^^"p'l^^f-*"-^- 
 
 40 
 
 /.\' .IAX//C s/:.is. 
 
 out was stationed at his post in llic bow, watchinrj for 
 icc'ber<;s. Xi.i;lit was coming' on, and as scxcral had 
 been s(.'c-n L'arlv in the day, we feaivd that there nii,ij;ht 
 be otliers in our palli. The ni.^ht, forlniialely, was clear, 
 and tlie moon .^ave plenty of lis^ht, so that ])y keepin.i;- a 
 sharp watch ahead an\- ai)proachin<; ])erL;s could be seen 
 in time to avoid a collision. 
 
 With earl\- dawn came a north-west wind wirich in- 
 creased all day, until by ni.^htfall it was blowinj^ a };ale. 
 Our heavih-laden shij) was still deep in the water, not 
 cnou<jh of the coal having- yet been used to lij^hteu it to 
 any appreciable extent. The lar<;c amount of coal on 
 deck rendered the ship more unwieldly than it otherwise 
 would have been, and it pitched and tossed fri<;htfully 
 in the lar^e waves which ever\ now and then liroke over 
 tlie sides. Kverythini^ above was cold and wet, and it 
 was almost impossible to stay on deck with any deforce 
 of comfort or even safety. Many were a<^ain taken sea- 
 sick, antl sought their bunks, not, however, to enjoy 
 much rest, the tossiny; of the little ship renderin<j tiiat 
 inipo.ssible. 
 
 The j^ale kept up all ni<;ht, and vSunday foinid it 
 more violent than ever. The cook's «i^alley, a small 
 house on deck, was nearly washed away by the sea, and 
 so damaj^ed as to re(|uire repairing; before it was possible 
 to obtain any cooked food. As many were seasick, we 
 were not •greatly ajjjitated over the accident, knowing' 
 that we would not want anything from that quarter for 
 a cla\- or two. The gale, after continuing about three 
 davs, at last began to subside. It was remarkable that 
 
 I 
 
 ^ 
 
that 
 
 lircc 
 that 
 
 
 iii-i 
 
 ////: ro). !(,/■: oi- iiii: kiii:. 
 
 41 
 
 ill these hit;h latitudes, where one would expect con- 
 tinuous cold, as loii!^ as the sun was shining the air felt 
 balmy. To he sure, the sun onl\- hid himself lor three 
 hours, and a few (la\s later we had his j)resence all nii;ht. 
 I'litil II o'clock ]'. M. one could easily read ordinary 
 ])i"int on deci<:, e\en at this early stage of the vo\age. 
 
 :-M 
 
cii.\r'ri-:R iii. 
 
 l-'insr Siciir or ( ii<i. inland Ici.iii.KCS. hisKo Isi.wn — 
 
 Al(KI\\I. AT tioIHIWN. \lSir (ir i;SKI.M(iS. I)ININ(, Willi 
 Tin: CiOVl'.KNOK. .\\T1\1. llris. 
 
 Ox jniK' i^l. toward (.xxniuin. w.' caught our first 
 si)nlit of (inrnlaiid. Tin- land was iiiaii\- miles 
 away, appt-ariiit^ as a narrow, dark cloud on llir horizon. 
 All lliron.yii the lon.^ Arctic twili.^ht wc steamed toward 
 it, the outline hecoinin^i: niorc' irre.L;ular, hut the ])eaks 
 still seeiniii.ii' as far off as e\er. What we saw were the 
 iiU)untain-to]is hack of Cape Desolation, ami at this loui^ 
 distance it seemed to (leser\e the name which it bore. 
 Rnj^iJUed ])eaks, o\ershado\vcd 1)\' a cold, dead sk\', were 
 all that we could distinguish; on ai^proachin;^- nearer, 
 howe\er, we had our first ^lim])se of how beautiful an 
 Arctic scene nii^ht be. A \ast mass of iceberi^s of 
 lanla.-tic forms, man\ of which niii^ht be compareil to 
 cnurch-spires or ruined castles covered with snow, were 
 encountered. Their varied form-^ pleaded, us, and we 
 remained on deck until late in the exinini^ admiring- 
 them; but the most beautiful si^hl was one that ])re- 
 seiiled itself later, when the moon rose and illumined 
 with her silwr li.^ht their snow-clad clilfs. As we jiassed 
 them one after another, the\- loomed up, ink\- black, 
 a;^ainst the twilight sk\, and had a weird fiscinatioii 
 
 which ke])t us (Mi deck for niaiu' hours. 
 ii; 
 
i\n. 
 
 (. Willi 
 
 ir first 
 
 iiiiks 
 )ri/,()!i. 
 oward 
 
 ]K';iks 
 IV the 
 s Inw^ 
 
 1)()IV. 
 
 \\\']X' 
 
 arrr, 
 ail 
 
 of 
 
 (1 to 
 
 .vre 
 
 wc 
 
 iiiiii^- 
 
 piv- 
 
 iiK'd 
 
 isscd 
 
 ack, 
 
 tioii 
 
 illh MUiNUaiT .-il N. 
 
''— "■ -nif 
 
 A^ 
 
////•; \())\ !(./■: *'/•■ ////■; a///;. 
 
 43 
 
 Tlu'sc ic-cbcrj^s, as CaptMii I'ikt- iufoniu'd 
 
 us, were 
 
 frai^iiK'nls of i^lacicrs on the castcni slioiv of (iii'(.iilan(l, 
 wliicli, s\vt.])t aroiui'l Caju- I^aicwcll by the octaii cur- 
 ixiits. sail sliiwh up the westeru coast uulil (klkc'l(.'(l h\- 
 Ur- iL;tcat Arctic currents, and are carried down the cast 
 coast of North America to the ()i)en Atlantic. ()nl\- the 
 lars^cst and oUlesl of these her^s sur\ive their lon^ jour- 
 iu\ ; the rest are melted and dissipated by the warm 
 water and air which they meet as they float southward. 
 Those that remain are the terror of the transatlantic 
 seamen, for they float in the direct course of tin.' shortest 
 possible route between the .L^reat points of departure 
 of the two continents. When these frnt^ments ol" the 
 
 ireat ice 
 
 ■ileet 
 
 are met wi 
 
 til, th 
 
 le mi'ditv steauur is in 
 
 i^reat j)eril, and the captain shows his sense of her dan- 
 ger by his constant watchfulness and extreme care; but 
 the AVA beinj;- of different build, Cai)tain Pike's jilacidity 
 was not even disturbed for a moment b\' the si^ht of 
 these monsters. Xotwillistandiujr the abundance of ice- 
 beri^s which la\' in our jiatli, the ship kept on her course, 
 except that the ice-pilot would occasionally throw o\ er 
 her helm to avoid what he called "kuockiiVi^ her loolh- 
 ]iick out of her mouth " — that is to sa\-, losiii,L; her Jib- 
 
 boolU. 
 
 The ji^rcat procession of berfjs continued all ui^ht, but 
 as the ship reached the desired jioiut opposite Cape Des- 
 olation, and her course v as turned northward, the\- were 
 i^radually left behind and sailed majesticalh- on their 
 juurne\-. 
 
 After passing Cape Desolation we had beautiful, warm, 
 
^11 /A' . /A'(//(' .sv;. /.S'. 
 
 siuisliim \vi.allur, ;ill(»\viii;^f lis to bf on deck all tlif linu'. 
 'JMu' (Liy> wiif \(.T\ aj^rc'LMhlf, and, liaNinL; now cro>>M.-(l 
 the Amii- Ciicli', \vi' WLTr ta\()r(.'(l with rontinnon> day- 
 Hl^Iu. This ciiahUd n> lo sff all thai wa> passinj; at an\- 
 tinir; IiMl ha\in!4 no darknrss alTccti'd lis strannfly, \nn- 
 diK'iiiL; siu'h a kilin^ of wakilnliK^s thai it was hard to 
 till W IkMI Wf oiii^ht to .i^o to slcTp. 
 
 At this tiiiK' wi.' \\v\v passing; aloiiii; iIk' wrslcrn coast 
 of ( ircT'iilaiid, which was onh twenty niilis distant, its 
 rn,n;^cd outlines hcin,^' clcaiK' Nisiblc in the hrilliant snii- 
 sliiiie, while the to])s of its snow-clad nionntains were 
 (lislinctl\- outlined against the bine sky in the distance. 
 The iniinense icebeii^^s which were constanll\- i)assin<4 al- 
 wa\ s interested ns. 'i'heir e\er-chanjnin<j; forms and beau- 
 tiful clear bine color were ne\er-ceasinj4 objects of coin- 
 nieiil, and constantl\ challenj^ed unr admiration. The 
 coiitinnoiis da\li,i;lit and radiance of the sun, together 
 with the ma^niliceiice of the ber^s and the anticipation 
 of still mole wonderful re\elations, so aroused ns that it 
 (lestro\ed all desire for sleej), and made lis fi-el as if we 
 were on a siimnur pleasure trip at home, rather than 
 steamini; amidst the ice of Arctic seas. The island of 
 Disko was sighted on June 25th, in the afternoon, .iiid 
 althon.iL^h se\enly miles distant, it was nevertheless, 
 owin,>4 to the clearness of the atmospliere, distinctly 
 visible to the unaided e\e. 
 
 (»n this island is situated (iodhavn, the principal set- 
 tlement of Xorlhern Danish (ireenlaiid. This settle- 
 ment is on the south side of the island of Disko, in lati- 
 tude ()i) \-'. It is about half a mile from the sea, and 
 
 \^\ 
 
I III. \ ov. K.i: oi' I III. hi ri: 
 
 45 
 
 IIU', 
 
 ;i\'- 
 
 \\\\ 
 
 MO- 
 
 t(. 
 
 ast 
 
 un- 
 
 •rc 
 
 ai- 
 
 lU- 
 
 lic 
 
 R-r 
 
 on 
 
 It 
 
 i<) <•(. 
 
 I 
 
 di 
 
 t a ;;(i()(l aiU'liDiaL^c' it is nrf(.'ssar\- lo tiiUr tlu- fiord 
 iKi\ 'IMir sitlUimiU i> not \i>il)lc 
 
 l)a\- for \\w^ (li>la 
 
 iVoni llu' oct-an, 
 
 htin'' !ii(l(Kii li\ llu- nmnnlains at llii- 
 
 i| 111 WN. 
 
 fiilvancf of llic fiord; iiuk-i-d, were il not tor llu' Iwu 
 >tone beacons ])lace(l to mark llie spot, one would liaN'c 
 ln'i-n liable to lia\e ])a»c(l it by nnrc-co.^ni/ed. Codliaxn 
 \\a> the fir>t ])lace at wli it'll wc- called after lea\-in^ S\(lne\-. 
 'ilie scene at the nioiiih of the harbor was trnl\- nia.L;nif- 
 icent. three lar^e iceberL;s ^eenlin^ to j^nard its entrance; 
 one, about three hnndied U'ct in len,L;th and a hundred 
 and fift\ feet ill liei<'lit, was shaiied like an imnieiise arch, 
 
tf llflllill 
 
 46 
 
 /.V .lA'CT/C s/:. IS. 
 
 with an oprniiit; lart^e cti()u<;li to pennit the ])assa<;e of 
 a vessel the size of our own with topmasts lioused. I'-fom 
 the level of the sea to the top of tlie arch was (piite sev- 
 enl\- feel, and it was as rej^ular and Ijcautifnl a semicircle 
 as ever seen in our lari^a' stone hrid.^es at home. The pale 
 blue ice, with its surface coxered with snow and frozen 
 hard enon,^;h to <;listcn in the niorniu!:^ sunlij^ht, sur- 
 passed in color and beaut)" anythin<^ that man coidd 
 form from purest marble, and was a sij^ht never to be 
 forgot 'en. 
 
 On our arrixal in fnjut of the town a wliale-])oat left 
 the shore, manned by half a dozen natives, who, com- 
 iui^ aboard, j^uided our ship to a safe anchora_^e o])]')osite 
 the (.governor's house. Some of these men spok-. a little 
 Huf^lish, which had been acquired diu'in.t;- the \isits of 
 whalers. I'.y means of iheir small stock of this lano;na,!L^e, 
 eked out with additional sit^us and gestures, they in- 
 formed us that our vessil had been si^^hled .several hours 
 before, b\ some of their companions, from the mountain 
 hei'dit adjacent to the village. 
 
 The harbor of (iodh.ivu is laud-locked, and is as sim;^' 
 and pretlx' a little hari)oras one e\-er .sets. On the north 
 side the mountains re.aclu'd o\er three thousand fri. t in 
 hei^hl, lluir lops beiuL; co\-eied with snow and ice. 
 Toward ll.i.' base ihey were greenish in color, wliich was 
 due to a scanty growth ot uu)sses and lichens. There 
 was not a tree to be seen anywhere; iiulced, we soon 
 learned th.il in (ireeuland trees as \vt- know lliem dt) not 
 exist. To the soulh the t^round was low and roekx', and 
 ni the water b.'soud a nuud)er of icebergs couh' be .seen. 
 
 « 
 
////: !() ).!(,/■: (I/- ////■: a///;. 
 
 47 
 
 irs 
 lin 
 
 
 Tlic land cniUaiiK'fl t-noui^li soil to furiiisli subsistence 
 U) a small anioinit of veyvlation, which a<l(lt.(l a |irctl\- 
 imicn to the lan(lsca]ic. 
 
 Tlu- anchof was dropped and a >aliite Inc-d, which 
 was respoiidid to 1)\- one from tlu- lan<l. and Captain I'ike 
 with Lieutenant TearN and I'roL Heilprin went ashore 
 and called on the inspector, Mr. AndiiMn. 'Idle letter 
 of intrcxlnction from the D.uiisli mini'^terat Washim^toii, 
 together with other ])a])ers r.xjilainim; our mission in 
 (Greenland, was shown to him, a.nd hv receixid the 
 visitors \er\- pleasantly, hojiin^.;- that their sla\ at < iod- 
 ha\n would he an enjo\al)le one. 
 
 .\fter their return to the ship r,i-arl\ ,dl tlu- p.irt\- 
 landed and ]>roceeded to iu\-estij.^at(. the xilla^e and sur- 
 ronndin;.^ conntr\ . Tlie few reniaiuiuL: ou hoard rec-ei\t.il 
 a \isit from the nati\'es, who came to the >hip to trade 
 and i^raiife their curiosilw TlieN- ])ro\i'd >o inttre^tinu; 
 tlial I decided to sla\ aboard al' mornin;^-. 
 
 The first si^lit of the I'',skimo is disa])pointin!^. It is 
 true that the\- are stpiat in figure a;id .swarthy, but those 
 whit-h w(.' saw al Disko w-.-w not .so reniarkabk' in f ice or 
 form as to ha\e attracted attention in .in\- port wh'.re 
 fireii^n sailors abound, rxcept lor tluir skin costnuKs. 
 ]'.\\u these coslunus would not have breii ]>articnlarl\' 
 iioliciable had it not biiii for their filthiuess. \\\- kit 
 the same disap]>ointmeitl that main o|us had rxpeririux d 
 at sciiu;,; the Wk'slcrn Indians, when, iustrad ot a noble 
 s;i', .ii^e, or (.Aeil a siinblanc*.' of the earii'aluris oiir s(.(.> of 
 the Indian in hi^h hat and nil I)lanket, wr fouiu' men 
 like oiirsehes, dressed in laiiK cixili/ed fashion, and at 
 
 '<fA 
 
 W 
 
Ktmmmr-^-yvr—.-.. 
 
 48 
 
 /.\' .lA'cV/C SA.IS. 
 
 first sijrlit not rcMiiarkable for aiiyiliiiii;. This first im- 
 ])rc-ssi()n, liowcvcr, in botli cases soon wears off. The 
 ])h\si();4n(;in\-, race cliaracteristics, and cnstoins arc seen 
 to (lifil-r widely from tliose of otlier nations, and an 
 interest all the more intense on acconnt of its ])re\ions 
 absence was felt in studying this (t(j lis) new \ariet\- of 
 mankind. 
 
 About noon a cc)nple of natives rowed inc ashore, and 
 ;ifter a few minutes spent in lookin.ij about the settlement 
 I met the ins])ector, the ,i;()\-ernor, and a p;issenL;er from 
 the oul\- ship in the har])or, a small Danish brij^i^. This 
 5;entlemau, Mr. Koch by name, had arrived a i\\v davs 
 ])rc\iously from Denmark, and was awaitin<^ an opporln- 
 nil\- to proceed southward to take charLje of one of the 
 other settlements. Tlic\- were standiuj; in front of the 
 ]L;i)\ernor"s house, talking, as I approached and introduced 
 nnself. lM)rtuuatel\- for me, they all s])()ke some I'.w^- 
 lish, and we wert' soon couxersin^' about the expeili- 
 tiou. 
 
 A delightful half hour was thus passed, after which I 
 received ;iu inxilaliou from the governor to dine with 
 him. On m\' accepting, we entered the house and were 
 ushered into the ])arlor, through the open doorwax' of 
 which, leadiu;^- to th',' diniuL^-rooni, could be st'cn the 
 ser\anls ])repariuL; the meal. The savor\ odors of the 
 food, the s])otless linen table-cloth, and home-like >ur- 
 roundiuL;s were indeed an a^reeibk' change from >hip- 
 liU'. The i>art\- at dinner, which was soon aunouui-ed, 
 con>isUd of the governor and hi-- wife, Mr. Koch with 
 his wife and child, and nnself Tlun fiHowed a most 
 
 M 
 
m 
 
 ■////■: \-()y.i(:/-: oi- ////■: kiti:. 
 
 49 
 
 Tlu 
 
 i,ni;)val)k' nual. It l)L,L;an with a soup of most (k'licious 
 ll,i\-or, iiiaik- from llic (.■iik-r-'ltick, followc'd I)\' lnoik-d 
 L-iik-r-diick breasts and potatoes, witli bread and wiiie. A 
 (kN>LrL of jell)- and ainiunds ended llie rep;i>l. Tlie 
 \jriet\' of tile \'eL;clabk's \va> neeessarih' re>trieled. lie- 
 eaii<e llie\ liad all lo be bronchi iVoin Denmark, and 
 eonimnniealion with that connlrx is only pos>ible dnrinLj 
 the summer months. 
 
 The ser\-ants seemed to be ipiile familiar with their 
 duties, and mo\ed al)OUl noisekssly in their >ot"t >kin 
 boots. .\ slii^hl look or i^esture from the host or hostess 
 \v :i> readilv understood and immedialeK obeyed. The\- 
 were I'".>kimo women, and dressed in Inr trousers with 
 laue\-colored sott leatlier boots whieh reached to the 
 knees; a short jacket made of the >k:.i of the hair seal 
 au<l a fancy handkerchief or ck)th a])out the head com- 
 pleted their attire. It was indeed a sc-nsible co-.tnuie, 
 and both becominj.; and picturesijue. 
 
 The conversation at the table, which was princijialU' 
 in the Danish lon.nue, was kindlx translated tor me, from 
 time to time, by Mr. Koch, who spoke l*ji,iL;lish with 
 cou->iderable llnency. This courtesy, and the kindnos 
 and L;erda!ity of the host, added con>i<lerably to the 
 ]>le.i>ure of the occasion. ( )n ri-'u^, at the conclusion 
 of the dinner, those ,it the table siiook hands with tlieir 
 lio>t and with one anotlier, and e.\chan.L;(,(l <_;reetin;.,^s. 
 Tlii> was an ancient Danish custom, ami is ^i-nerallv 
 pr.icti^ed anions; tlic Danes in (ireenland. Tln' i^entle- 
 nien then retired to anollur room, where coffei' and 
 ci'Mr> Were served. 
 
50 
 
 /.\' .INC/7C si:. IS. 
 
 Oil leaviiij^, soon afterward, wl- made a tour of the 
 sctlkiiiunt. It consistt'd of the inspector's house, the 
 governor's house, a store, the assistant ^n)vernor's lionsc, 
 a small chapel, a cooi)er and blacksmith shop, a store- 
 lu)U>e near tlie edt^e of the water, where the ships 
 unloaded, and al)out tliirtv or fort\' ICskinio huts. All 
 
 l\>l'H IiiK ^ llnOI , l.i'im.W N. 
 
 the 1)uildin,y;s except those of the I<!skimos were made of 
 lumber broui^ht from Denmark. They were about a 
 stor\- and a half hij^h, with steep peaked roofs covered 
 with pitch. The windows, and the panes also, were 
 ([uite small, both the windows and the doors beinj; deep- 
 Iv cased to provide against the bitter cold of winter. At 
 
-Jill: loY.n.i: oi' I hi: kin:. 
 
 51 
 
 sliips 
 AH 
 
 this scnsdii of tlic yi'ar the douhlc- wiiHhiws wtTC uniK-ccs- 
 sarv, for llic Uuipt-Talnrc was about tlif fn.x'/in<;-j)oint 
 and in the bright snnliiL^hl it was (luitc- warm. Uolli llic 
 sides and roofs of iIr' houses were covered willi eoal-tar, 
 anil tile casiu_<4S and wiudow-saslies were painted white, 
 till.- contrast of the two colors prochiciu^ a strikiuj:;- and 
 h\ no means unpleasinj^ efTect. All were scrupulously 
 clean, and presented a neat and cos\- api)earance. vSe\- 
 eral liouses were fenced in, and niceh-kcpl pebble walks 
 led up to the front door. 
 
 .\s one entered, he found a sliort hall from wdiich two 
 doors opened; one of these led into a sittin,y;-rooni, whicli 
 was also fitted uj) for the transaction of business relatin.u;' 
 to the colony. This room was <iuite cheerful and neatly 
 furnished, containinj^ a i)iano, a book-case fdled with 
 books, and other evidences of refinement. There were 
 windows on three sides of the room, which looked out 
 on the l)a\- and the j^leasant landsca])e around. The 
 other door, on the opposite side of the hall, ^ave access 
 to the li\ in,n-roonis of the faniih'. I did not see the 
 ujjper rooms, which must ha\e been small, and were 
 possibly used for storage j)urposes or for the acconimoda- 
 liou of the scrxatits. 
 
 ( )n the sheltered side of the house, under one of the 
 windows, was a ininiature garden fi\e or six feit scpiait.-. 
 It contained lettuce, peas, and one or two othe'' hardy \e,L,'- 
 etables. This i^ardeii was more a thin.^of ornament than 
 service, as the aniouul ij^idwu in it was insignificant and 
 the short season i)ie\eiited the plants from btconiiuij 
 pro])erly matured. It was inclosed by a neat and ])rett\' 
 
5'^ 
 
 /.v lA'c/vc s/:.is 
 
 IciiL'c oi wood, which rcsiinhkd ihi- toy fcncLS used lo 
 .surrouiul our Christmas trees. 
 
 The houses haw no cellars, heiii.t; Imilt on the solid 
 ruck or oil mound whicli is tVozeii perpetually tVoiii a 
 few inclies below the surface, the >un duriu^ the suninier 
 inoiiths thawin.ir the ground to the depth of oiih' half 
 a foot or more, depeiulin.n' on its situation. There were 
 hut three of these wooden dwelliii^-hdUses, the inspec 
 tor's, the !/o\enior"s, and assistant <4o\ernor's. 
 
 II \l !■ I A I 
 
 The cha])el and storehouses, hiiilt also of wood, were 
 painted Mack with white windows, similar to the 
 dwollin,ns. 
 
 The chapel was situated <ni the top of a hill in the 
 rear of the villasje. While not larLie. it was nevertheless 
 
nil- \())\ !(,/■: (U- '////■: kiii:. 
 
 53 
 
 .itlr;icti\c--l(i(ikii!;^r, and ivsrinhK'il in ^;iiKTal the small 
 I.iUluian (.■liurcln.s of Xdilluin ICuri)])(.'. It possL-ssfd a 
 ^in,L;k' iiioni with woodiii hrnclus, and was nscd lor both 
 clinirh and srlionl ])nrp()scs. In llir front was a ralhtr 
 i.laI)orati- altar, also nsid as tin.- schoolmaster's (Usk. 
 \n origan and a blackboard completed the fnrnishin,^ 
 of the interior, with the exception of a nnniber of ^aih- 
 colored reliv^ions prints on the walls. 
 
 The storehouses were nothini^ more than lar^e barn^. 
 stronL;K constructed to withstand the storms of winter. 
 
 The l'',>kiuio dwellini.rs \\(.\(.' huis built of turf, with a 
 
 rooi 
 
 made ot boards covered with the same material 
 
 The\' were about fifteen fiet sipiare, and usnallv built 
 on the slope of a hill. Ivicli house contained a siuLile 
 window with a sa>h ol ,i;Iass composed of sewral ]tanes. 
 Tlie\ were entered b\ a tuiiiul about ten fett ill leiiiL^lh 
 and two or three feel in luiL^ht, runiiinu;- out from its 
 side. r.efore entering, it is (|uile essc-ulial to call ti 
 some of the inmates, who lluu knock out two or three 
 of the iil;K -hidkini; do^s which cou^re^ate in and about 
 the opeiiin,L;s of all the liiits. .\fter this precaution one 
 i^oes down on hands and kiues and crawls ihrouiih the 
 tunnel, a small door !.;i\in^ admission to the hut. Tln' 
 interior consists of but one room, half tif which has a 
 tloor o|' wood r.iised a t'oupk' of fci-l ,d)o\-e the .ground. 
 ( )ri this the inmates spend most of their time, tatiii^, 
 sleei)in^, and working;. Tin.' rest of the room is L;i\eu 
 up to cookin;^, curin.L; of skins, .iml the siorai^^e of liuiit- 
 iiiL; and other implemeiils. The raised iloor is iieces- 
 .sar\ to utilize the heat an<l warmth kA the room, which 
 
 't ! 
 
54 
 
 /.\' .lA'c'/vc s/:.is 
 
 is j^realcr iK-aixT iIr- root". The lieij^lil inside- iIk- lint from 
 the (Trotuid to llif roof is hardly seven feet, it heinij^ ini- 
 ])ossi1)le for anN' except the smaller inmates to stand tip- 
 rij^lit when on the jjlatforni. 
 
 There is a \er\- perceptible odor of fish and .u^rease 
 abont the inside, and generally a pot of fish and blubber 
 
 
 N.MUI. WiiMW AMI (llllhUIN. linhllWN. 
 
 is boiliniLj; over a smoky fire. The fuel used is seal oil 
 and turf, the latter of which I saw them pilini^^ up out- 
 side the hut for future use. The Danish i^overnment 
 ])rovides the natives of the settlement with lar<;e cast- 
 iron stoves, and each hut contains one of these, the pi])e 
 from which jiierces the roof. The walls are nsiudly Iinn.if 
 
////■; ro). !(,/■: o/- ////■: a///-;. 
 
 .■^,1 
 
 III- 
 ip- 
 
 ISO 
 
 with Imntiii.L;' iiiiplcintiUs, clothes, occasionally sonic 
 ilica]) ininl>, and a lew other articles. ( )n the plallnrni 
 \ere the skins on which tlu' inmates slept; the\ were 
 iiiiisth those of tile reindeer and birds sewn to^^elher. 
 When not in nsc these fnrs are nsnally rolled np and 
 packed awa\- with a miscellaneous collection of nnnni>]ie(l 
 clothing;, little boxes containing; sewinj;- implements, 
 trinkets, and children's playthin,L,fs. The whole plat- 
 lonn was sometimes littered with these things, lor here 
 the work of the household was done and the little chil- 
 dren played. Many of the huts were filtln- in the i\- 
 treme, thoui,di in those of some of the better cl.i>s of 
 natives the platform was quite neat. 
 
 The floor itself was alwa\s strewn with fraj^nients of 
 skill, pieces of dirt\' blankets, and other offen>i\e mat- 
 ter, which amply accounted for the \-ile odors encoun- 
 tered on eiitcrinjL^. 
 
 The total number of inhabitants in (lodha\n was 
 about one hundred and fift\-; of these about a half dozen 
 were the Danish officials and their families, the rest beiny- 
 l"",skimos. 
 
 The inmates of the native huts numbend usualh >i\ 
 to eij^ht in each. They seemed to have a nninber of 
 children, wdio were as a rule brii^dit and intere^lini;. 
 Almost all of the nati\t'S were of tli-' coU)r of our \orlli 
 American Indians, but the face is broader and has none 
 of the fierce and stolid look of tlu American sa\ai;e. 
 The\' are much smaller in stature, tluir hair is jet black, 
 strai.i;ht, and, in the case of the men, not allowed to !^ row 
 o\'er four or live inches in length. In the women, liow- 
 
 fm 
 
 W^^ 
 
totrww^wwmiK^^ 
 
 56 
 
 /v iKcin' SI-: IS 
 
 iwT. il i> iinuli IdiiL;!.-!', ;m<l i\iiKiilly ict'i'iws (.ou^iikr- 
 ahlf :itli.iitinii, 
 
 'riu' iii.irriffl wonuii ,in' ilistiiv^ui-^lu'il Iroin lli«>-f wlin 
 ■AW >iii^K- l.\ li.i\ iiiL4 lluir liaif l\vi>tr(l in llii' Inrm ••!" .1 
 roll, iniir or f\w iiu'lir^ in luii^lil, oil tlu' lo|> ot tlii' 
 luad ami lii^ltth \\ia]']H(l willi cord. TIu- >inL;Ir u niiu u 
 (Ir-ss tlirir hair in xarmus sl\k'S as l"aiu-\ (liclati>. tin.- 
 r • i 
 
 \ ' 'I ■>.' . I -K i \i' ■ 1 .11, 1 > \ M I N \ I l\ I. nil. 
 
 k-iiiak- cliildn.!! wearing il souk liiiKs liki.' llial t)l their 
 iiiollK-r>, a> show 11 in thr ilhisiralion. 
 
 I >a\v uol a single sh)\ (.iiK-IookiiiL; woman, and it l]\v\ 
 had nol >nch an ahoniinahk- odor of ^rcasf and rank fish 
 oil ahoiit lluni ihi \ niiL;ht liaxc 1)(.-(.'U i|iiitc altraclivu. 
 Thc'V Nwrt- ahk- lo ublain iVuni the >ton.' in tlu- scttlc- 
 
 
 «\> 
 
^ 
 
 ////. I (>) i(,/ (>/ I III. Kill-:. zq 
 
 imiit f;mc\'-('i>l()r( il clotlis. 1)im(1>, id'., ami with t!iisi> 
 ;!ic\ iiiaiK' ami lUcmatiil tluif ]>i('tiirt.'s(|iu I'm i'ii>tmm.'>. 
 '''!ir nun an.- neillur so will du^^cd nm tliiiltv limk- 
 :aL;, nnnli (if lluir clothing; In in^; i-unipn-iil nf tlu c-a^l- 
 (iff ;^arnunls (if sailors. .Man\ of tlu ni wnn pantaloons of 
 
 -hiKi ||..r-l. AM. '.Kill !• ^,\ N \l l\-I ~. .,. .|iilA\N. 
 
 sial-skiii, skin hoots, aiul, at tliis season, a conihimrl hood 
 aiul sliirt (.-alk'd " milsck, '" niadi- of a ratlR-r 1um\ \ cdit'o 
 sort of matt, rial sn]i]ilit.(l h\ tlu -ow rnnu'iit. TIkn \wn- 
 • inile- anxions to traiK- an\ thin^ l]u\ had for cloth ]>anta- 
 loon>, hnt as tlK\- (ksiic-d onl\ those- which wt-ii.- in ''ood 
 
 i 
 
58 
 
 AV .lA'C/VC S/:. IS. 
 
 cond.tu.n. wc ha.l vnv few to spare. Tl,cv wislu,! t. 
 liavc then fcr two reasons: fhst, to satisfV a desire to 
 "Hitate the Kiiropean nietl.o.l of dress; and secon.l as I,e- 
 in«- a more eon.fortahle article of clothin^r for s.nniner 
 use than their own seal ganiieiits. 
 
 t,- 
 
t(» 
 
 to 
 
 A Nativi; Danci:. — I'oi, \uis IIi;m<h.'K. Ui.i.k.kin m- riii: ICs- 
 KiMus.- Miiiu; oi' (ii)\ i;i<.\.\ii;ni'. Mnsui hols. A I'mnci; 
 IN Tii:: AucTn.: ()ci;.\N. 'I'm: N.\ri\i; Ai'i'i/irn;. 
 
 OX the following (l;i\' I was fortutialc tiiouj^h to iiRtt 
 Mr. Carstfus, lla- assistant gownior. lie had \>vvu 
 biisw i>rf\iousl\ , supfiA isin.n the unloading of .sii|)])liis 
 from iIr- Danish brig in the harbor, bnt the da\' bi'iug 
 Sunday, all work in the settlement was sus]Kn(U(l, ami 
 1r- was therefore at leisuri-. Most of us went ashore 
 to see a native danee whieh took plaee in one of tlie 
 storehouses. Thi.s dance it is custoniar\- to ha\e during 
 the stay of the Danish ship in port, the pett\ offieers and 
 crew also taking part in the festivities, whieh constitute 
 one of the indiR-enR'Uts held out to them to \ i>il thesu 
 (Mit-ol'-the-way shores. I was told that the Danish go\-- 
 ernnR-nt h;ul considerable difilcnlty in getting desirable 
 erews I'or this trade, and so allows a dance and Sunday 
 a>hore to the urmi, to \-ar\ the monotony of their long and 
 dangerous \o\age to and tVom Denmark. 'I'he ships are 
 ([uite small, generalh' brigs or barks, and ;ire rarelv 
 manned 1)\- over ten nR-n ; there were about this number 
 of sailors present at the dance, and they seemed to enjoy 
 themselves hugely. l'"\er\ thing was (juite orderK , and 
 the good behavior of all was nuR'h connneuled on b\- us. 
 
6o 
 
 /.y . ih'i'i /(' s/:. IS. 
 
 ■s \ 
 
 vSrvLTal of our sailors also look pari, ^really lo tlu'ir 
 (k'li^lil, aiwl soiiic- ol tliL' nunilK-rs of our owu parU did 
 iiol rc-lVain T'oir. joiuiu;^ in iIk- niori- laniiliar dances, 
 which cousislcd ])riucipall\' ol a niixlurc ol hornpipes, 
 JIl^s, ami (jn idrillcs, c\idcntl\- U'arncd iVoni the sailor'^of 
 whaling; shi])s ihal had hccn c.dlini; lure for wars. 
 Most of the dances included tlu' t~la])pin!4 of hand> 
 and slanipani^ of led, nol unlike our Indian war-dant'cs. 
 The music was made i)\- two old I'",->kinios with fiddles, 
 
 and 
 
 i; was ^-.'rv exident that this a( vonnilishnieut 
 
 ori^inaU'd from the same ■^ourc(•. as three or font of 
 ihi.' tunes jilawd were a medle\ of Wt;ro and Iri^h lunes 
 thai were familiar at home. 1 sent to the shi]) for a 
 }4;uilar, and accompanied this " orcdu-sira '" for sonu- time. 
 Thev ])la\-eil (piite well holh a-- regards time and tune, 
 and I had not much ditricnltx in ket-pinn with them. 
 The naliws seemed (piile please. 1 with this addition t<j 
 their music, and looki'd much an<l curioush at the 
 
 <'-uitar. 
 
 It was eviilenth' the liist one e\ei si'cn in the 
 
 localitw and produced '|uitc a sensation. The n.itiws 
 were lound e\lremel\ foml of mu>ic. 
 
 Mr. Carsteus, who was so kind ;.nd courteous durin;^ 
 I'ur short ac(|uaintance, L^aw me a lar^e amount of \al- 
 uahle information ahout this peculiar and inlere^tim..; 
 ])e()i)le. Duriu'.^ his residence- of o\ i-r four \ears he had 
 actiuired considerahle knowkdiLje- of the subject, which, 
 with IIk' information he had ohlaiued from other sources, 
 made him a most charmiui^ and. interesting com]tanion. 
 
 He informed nu- that the nali\es were looked after 1 
 
 »\- 
 
 the I')anish <>()\ irnment. 'iMiev are well-beluu cd, li(.>n- 
 
•^ 
 
 ////. / (')'.!<,/■: ()/ ////•.■ A7//-; 
 
 6i 
 
 U'lr 
 
 (IKI 
 
 t'ts. 
 
 H'S, 
 
 irs. 
 
 IKis 
 
 ml siniid tluir tinu' in tlu- s|irin<^c;iU'liin^ si-.ils and 
 
 A.l 
 
 ;iii> .iiiil (ililainiii'. 
 
 ; 1 1 1 ■ 
 
 i\ III \ 
 
 mil i>il, wliuli arc 
 
 Stilt til hiimiaik. 'I'luA ir(,'vi\r tlicir |>a\ in a ^]nrial 
 k'.uil III iiimuA, l'ltll>i•^li!l;^r ol' cdiiis ;iii(i M-ii]) iiiaiK- I'nr 
 tlii> ]iurpii^f ill 1 )i.iiinai k. It is ia,.i n in pav nunt at tlif 
 
 ^tllrt.• lllf "'I'I'll 
 
 1(1 to tlu- iialu I 
 
 lii-pi't Inr AniliT-^iii pdintiil mit ti> n-- a kul al 
 
 Mill! V I'-ll- 
 
 U (11 \ raiN ol I''!.' 
 
 Iiriiiij IIk- siMi III 
 
 II 
 
 ms I iniru- 
 
 tlu 
 
 I''.->kiinn linnli.T, miilK-, ,uil ciiiii]iaiiiiiii I't" Kaiir ami 
 lia\(,-., ainl niciitiniKil mi ntu-n hv tlirui in tluir lainnii^ 
 hunks mi A ret if tia\ i;l ami liaidsliip^. Tlir \ nniiL; li llnw 
 is iKiw an III plian. ami li\(. s w itli his strji-nintlu-r. !!> 
 siiiiliii;^ t'acr ami (.■luiii'nl ilispn^iiion shuw that lu- i- 
 (.•\i(kiitl\ fiintriitiil with his lot. IIi'inJnNs ihiilistin- 
 i^iiislud naiiK' nf I'nlaiis I Knrirk, having; lucn calli-d 
 alUT tlu- rnitcd States sitMnisJiip /''A?/7v, whirh dniiviy 
 Hall's ixpfdiliuii, in llii.' yt-ar 1^72, was irii.sln.(l in tin.' 
 
 K'r 
 
 Th 
 
 r l)ii\- was inli-rt.stin<' Irmii tin- lact nl his ha\iiii 
 
 Im 11 liiini nil an ifr-tlnr al a liiin wluii tlu' /'>/ir/i^ was 
 liiiiiU Inckid in till' ict'. in latitmk- 7s ;^(i', and in iin- 
 ir.inmt dair^ir nl luiiii,; t-nislud. I'larin^ ihr lUstiiif- 
 timi III' till- \(.ss(.'l at an\ nuniu nt. sdnu- i>\ \]\v (.ii. w haii 
 (.'mainpi,il mi tin.' iix- a short distaiUH- a\va\ , wliilr tlu 
 V(.-si rrinaiiu'd mi hoaid. \ \ioUiit ,L;aif hrokr njitlu' 
 u\\ and tlu- tloi- on whitli tlu- riuainiinu nt was sitnatnl 
 
 llnalc'd aw 
 
 i\ 
 
 'riiosf wlin \\(.ir mi till' icT rmnpiisi'd 
 
 Cajitain 'Pvsmi tlu- ii'i'-]iiini, a k-w nf thi- I'li-w, and the 
 l'".skiiniis who had arcmnpanii. 
 11 
 
 II, 
 
 (.Aiii-ilitimi. 
 
 ill.- 
 
 inmii'iisf tlnr, with its li\ini:^ biinUn. drilU'd aiimit on 
 
62 
 
 /.\' .iA'(//c s/:.is. 
 
 tlir u\)vu sea for six iiKiiillis, wliin tlic stirvixors win- 
 nsctad 1)\ the- stcainsliii) />;'yv'.s.v, in laliliulc 33' _^,s', oflT 
 tlir (.-oast of Labrador, havinjn siicfussfully inack- llu- w- 
 inarkahK ilrift of nearly fifu-cn hundred miles and liwd 
 tliron^li the ri«;orsofan Aretie winter. 
 
 The reli.i^ion of the Ivskinios, as was learned from Mr. 
 Car>tens, is somewhat indefinite and uiieertain. At the 
 settlements, where the Danish missionaries liave labored 
 with the natives for many years, the\' mi_<;ht be ealled 
 theontiea] Christians. They do not aj)i)ear to be a))Ie to 
 ^rasp the idea of a Dr-ity as commonlx' nnderstood, and 
 ]ia\e even a slis^hter (M)nception of original sin. They 
 cannot be made to comjirehend how the sins of their 
 tathers for generations ean in any wa\- affect them, and it 
 is very donbtfnl if the\- have an\- exalted opinion of the 
 snperiorilx of the Cluistian Clnireh over their own vat^ue 
 ideas of a future life. A t(jtal indilTereiice is felt to the 
 exislenee of hell as a possible future dwellin<,r-plaee. 
 This may be ])arlially due tu havin,<r passed their ex- 
 istence in sneli an utterh desolate land that they cannot 
 ima.^ine an abode more miserable. Tlie sun, moon, and 
 (treat vS])irit they rci^ard as havin.y; an indefinite some- 
 thin<^- to do with their past, present, and future state. 
 .\t (ledesmunde and Jakobshavn, two settlements below 
 ( i(idha\ n, are two holes or saered caves, into which the 
 I\skimos, on passing- • ' the .-ourse of their hnntini;; 
 trips, throw l)ils ol blubbir and meat. This is al).)nt the 
 onK- sacrifice tl,'\ are known to olTer ii]) to the dreat 
 Spirit. Mr. Carslms thinks that iheir ;'p]);'.rent devotion 
 and re,i;nl,'.rity in attendance at the little chapel is due 
 
 \ 
 
"^m 
 
 11 II-: \oy.n,i-: oi- iiii: kiii:. 
 
 63 
 
 !;ir.^n-I\ to tlu'ir <^ri'at passion for music. TIkv lu-ver 
 liu' of tlir iiinsic of the small or;^ .n. and sin<^in.i; to its 
 ari'ompaninunl atlorils them tlu- j^rcattst ])lt.asurt.'. 
 
 'iMu' I-',skimos an- a ])faccfnl, luirmk-ss jK-opk- amonfj 
 llKinsthrs and toward the whites. Xo authenticated 
 e.i-'C of a whiti' man heinj; killed by an Kskimo has ever 
 luen known in (ireeuland, and hut three cases of murder 
 .inion,n>>l the natives themselves havi- occurred in the 
 ]ii>loiv of the settlement at r.odhavn. The perj>etralor 
 of , a case of infanticide, was punished with the ad- 
 Miiiiislration li\ the insi)ector of fort\ lashes on the hare 
 hack. The .secf)nd case, if it can he classed as a munkr, 
 was of iiewhat peculi.ir nature: In one of the 
 
 funilies there was a youni; juirl. who, heim,^ insane and a 
 hurdeu to her peopU\ was >entt need at a famih' concla\e 
 to d li'i. Some carbolic acid, which had been left for 
 dres>; ';, » wound by the doctor who \isited (iodliaxn 
 twice a \ear from some of the southern settlements, was 
 :.:i\en to her, but then, as the narrator said, " slu' became 
 crazier than e\er; " thereupon a secon<l dose ol a larger 
 .imount of the dru!:,^ was administered, and .she fell iusiu- 
 ->ible. Su]>posini; her dead, she was taken b\ her rela- 
 ti\es .and hurriedly burit-d beneath i pile ol nIouo. 
 Tlie\ maintained that she was realK dead w hen buried, 
 but information iuqiarled b\ ollu'rs matU' it look as 
 though this had not beiu the ca>e, and that -^he w.i> 
 .i]i\e when i'lterred. ()win^ to the doubts in the c.ise, 
 no punishment was inllii-lul in this inst.ince. 'i'lii- last 
 nini(Ur was that ]ierpetrated b\- ,1 m.in who w;is st-in. in 
 lii^ kajak, to a]i]'roach a l.iii^e skin bo.ii or "umi.ik" 
 
 4 
 
<>\ 
 
 /.\ .iA(//( s/:. IS 
 
 vmi.uiuu'^ uim- ]Hi-'ons. I h- (IrlihiralL-h- |ltiUL;ri! liis 
 isiiilc- into it, >iiikiii;^ lIi-.- Ii(),a and iliowiiiii^ llu- riiliit.' 
 ]),iil\. 'Till' nundini t'sraprd ])iiiii>liiiKiit, a-. 1 lu iiaU\fs 
 rrrii^t'd toad in the niallrr and llu- I lux 'i- I )ani^l! otiicials 
 l'a<l not tlh- roiira^i.' lo.irl lluiiistl\cs as liis cxi'dUioiurs. 
 'V\\v niiirdrRT is still oi-rasionallv sixii uvav ihc siuK-- 
 nuiil, but i> prohihitcl 1)\- tlu- j^owi'uor lioiii li\iii;j in 
 il. When asknl what lluir lionu' i^owrnnunt had Id 
 s;i\ aU.mt it. lluMr ixpl\- was, "X(ilhin<^." 'I'o <rnd llu- 
 tVllow llinr thousand niiU-s to IKnniaik tn !)(.■ vMiaitrd 
 was nonstiisi.', whiK' to niakt.' L-MTMitioniis ot tJK two 
 wliilr nun hru- Mhr ins])rtl()r ottt-n iKini; ah^tiiH would 
 !»i' an nnrriNonabU- i)r()i'fdnr(.' in \ irw ot' tin- indilllii n(.-t' 
 sh>wn in llu- inattiv 1)\ thi- natiws tlKMiistKrs. So the 
 di>rn'->ion e•l()-^(.•d 1)\ an invitation to am of our ])art\ 
 who so wislud, to add his carcass to tlR-ir I'olKction il' 
 i1k\' desired a specimen ot' that nature — an invitation 
 which, 1 need hardl\ sax, wa> not acce])led. 
 
 'I'he natives tlleniscKes are allowed to settle the dis- 
 putes and dil'licultics arisin;^ anion;^ tlu in: tlu'st' ,are hut 
 lew in uiunher and onl\ ol' a most Irixial nature, the 
 connnnnit\ heini^ .is '(uit-'t .uid orderI\- a one a> can 
 he lound an\where. The oiclinar\ disputes are tho>r 
 iirisiui^ in tlie di\ ision ot" the spoils of the i'ha>e oi some 
 tamuslic matters, and are [tuuislud 1)\ (lepri\iic.^ the 
 (il'l'ender ol' .1 part or all of his share. If the offense is 
 seriou> eUouLih. his effects ma\ i.\en he taken .iwa\ from 
 hnn and divided amongst ilu injurt'd p.irties. Souie- 
 liriies the '•t)\\rnor t.d<e> coL-nizance of an offence hv 
 
 ''\ 
 
riii: i(>).ii,/: oi- ////: a///-; 
 
 '>.s 
 
 'I'Ik' uatiws \\\\w \.\\v '^waW->\. rL->]i(,'Cl and .itU-rliMii inr 
 iIk- I).iiii>li ollicials. TIu' >liui;^lli ol llii> atlaclinu-ii; is 
 -li(i\Mi 1)\' till' Itillowiiii; orcMii'n-iK'f: Snpir \ imt^ a^i > an 
 iii^jiiTloi' and nali\'i', y>\\ :^i)iii;^ (im i' i\\v icr t(» i di^ianl 
 Mltimirnt, hrcaiiu- M'i)aratcd lu'iii iIk- >Ii()rr 1)\ llu- inr- 
 niatioii of a crai'k or m^mui. TIr- naliw was aii'u- to 
 jimip ai-ross tlic ri-><uir, hnl llu in>]n.clui-. hc-ini^ a nir.L'ii 
 lu-a\ ii.'T man and rnu^fd to ^uili kats, found it inuu.s- 
 <iI)U- to follow. '1"1k' nati\ f wa^ unwillini; to It-MW him 
 and |)voci-(.-d to the SLttlrnu;it lov a->istan(i- unk--^ llu- 
 ins]H-clor fnrni>h(.-d him with a notr -^tatinL; ilu' nature 
 of thr accidrnt, and thus r(.Iie\i- him of hlanu-. Tin- 
 ihi' inspector refused to d(>, and the nali\-e remained 
 with him, determined to ^liare his fate. I"ortnnatel\-, 
 the ne' '. da\' the ice camt.' to^^etlKr and Liial)led> hoth tf) 
 pr(X'ee«l on tluir j(»urne\ in •-afetw 
 
 Manx of the Ivskinio> in I)ani>~h (ireenland show nn- 
 
 mi^takahle sii^ns of ailmixtnre with the white rare. The 
 
 lesianhlanee of man\' of them to I'",uropean> !H)th in color 
 
 and ])h\ sioL;nom\- was (|uite marked, heim; (hie lo tlu' in- 
 
 termarriai^e of the natix'es and Danes practiced in the 
 
 ear]\ hi->tor\- of the -^ettlenunts. This was encouraged 
 
 at that time 1)\' the Dani-h ^owrumeiil, with thiL- idea oi 
 
 ci\ilizim; tlie inliabitants and im]iro\-iuL: their condition. 
 
 thu-^ making- them a more desirahle cla-^s of colonist-. 
 
 'I'he result of the e\i)eriment wa--. howe\-er. far from .saS:- 
 
 i--factor\-, and tlie\- were forced to .ih.indon it lonu .i-^o. 
 
 In>tead of the half-l)reed> beiuij helter than llu i>urt' 
 b 
 
 \ , 
 
66 
 
 /\ ./A'( //(■ s/:.is. 
 
 natives, I was inlnniR'd tliat tlK-\ Rtaimd all tlu- ohjfc- 
 lioiuihlc cliarac'l(ri>lit's of the l'",skiiii(is pins iIk- \ icc-s an<l 
 bad habits wliic-li tlu I)anc> tlicniscKis had imported. 
 Sn injnrions \ww tlu i.ri(ii> tound ti> be that, sonu tinu- 
 latir, the Danish i^oveinnunl lui^olialed tn-atiis with 
 Inirit^n nations, ha.\in,L; the t'>])eeial objei-t of piotectini; 
 the natixes b\ ])re\enlinL; all inli'ieonr.se between them 
 and \ isilors to their shores exeept nnder tlu- strietesl pre- 
 cautions and after a s])eeial permission had bi-i-n ob- 
 tained from the honu' ^owrnnunt. A eop\ of the law 
 on this snbject, now in force, wa-> hantled to ns by the 
 j^M)\ernor of I'pernaxik. its contents are L;i\ en nnder the 
 descrii)tion ol onr \isit to that ])hu'e. 
 
 It has btrn fonml almost impossible to civili/e or ele- 
 \ate the nati\e popniation to an\ marked extent. The 
 white inhabitants are too few in nnmber to exert any 
 Lire. It nujdifyinn intlneni-e. If llu\ arrive in the si'ttle- 
 nu-nt after h.i\ iiiii ;^roun to .idnlt ai;e in a more i'i\ili/.ed 
 eountrx, then, of conrse, they retain their accnstonu-d 
 m. Miners and mode ol" life ; bnl if a child is born to anv 
 of the Danish residents in (Ireenlaiid, thc\ do not dare 
 allow it to i;row to matnrii\ in the eonntr\ of its birth, 
 bnt .soon transport it to a more- ei\ ili/.r 1 1'omnuinite. It so 
 happened that Jnsl before onr List \i sit In i lodhaxii, on onr 
 wax home, one of the Danish uffu-i.ds (jf the place had 
 
 liait a Mm horn 
 
 to 1 
 
 iini. 
 
 While cxhibitinL! ureal deliijlit 
 
 at this addition to his taniilw lu- ,il the s.inie tiiiu e\- 
 press(.i1 i^real re^iri'i th.il it would be with him but a 
 short lime. He staled that llie cniMnn who wcae born 
 
 D; 
 
 inisli pare 
 
 and le.ired in (ireeiihind iiuariablv 
 
■////■; \(>)i(,r n/- ////■: a///;. 
 
 .i.'ijuiuil till iiKHu- <)|' liir ,111(1 li.ihils of the- nali\L's. 
 Tluir niiisi'S ami ])la\ iiiali's aw iu-cfssaril\- I'^kiiiins, 
 .111(1, (.Acii wIk-u >(.iU to hriini.iik .it (luitr an (.aiK aL;t.' 
 to Ik- i,iiM(l and (.(lucatrd, it is (lirfKMiit to ir.idiiMtt.' tlu' 
 trails ,u(|iiii(.'l iVoiu tlitir Ivskinio as>()c-ial(.s. Tliis is 
 iii(ki'(l a s.id Itatuii.' of tlu' lif(.-of tlu' frw wliilis in tlux.' 
 fir-aw.iv U'!4ion>. Tlir parents lia\ i' to facx- tlu- ten ihk- 
 ,ilt(.i iiatiw's of lillur >i.i.in^ tluir ('Iiildn.ii j^rowiii;^ up 
 ii;iior;int ,iiid iinriiltiin.(l at lioiiic. or ot partiiu; with 
 tlu'in in 1 slioit t'liu- and confiding tluni to tlu- can- ol 
 slran^'is in a iiioh.- t-nlii^liti tied idinniniiitv tlioiisands 
 oiniiks ,i\va\-. Tlu- Danish (iffu-ials in tlu-st- M-ttkiiunts 
 art- niltnicd, iiitt-llimiit nun, and tluir i^ixaltsl pk-.isuri- 
 is of iu-(.'tssit\- tluir dotm>ti(.- lifr. Tlu- s(.-ll-(kiiial that 
 it ri(|iiirL-s of tluni to send tluir rhiklnn a\\a\ to In- 
 raised can onK hi- appm.'iat(.(l h\ thosi- who h,i\-t- >(.-(. ii 
 and kit tlu- nttrr loiuliiu-ss that ]i(.r\a(k-s this di-sokilr 
 1,111(1. As a rcwatd oi tluir (k-\otion, Iio\vi.\-(.-r, .ilt(.r 
 sir\iiU4 ^ term of m.us in ( iniiikind tlu-\- ina\- return 
 to Denmark, ,iiid tlu-ii ni'ciNc.i nioii- dcsiraMi- posiiim; 
 in tluir coiintiA 's sir\ in- at lioiiic. 
 
 { iodli.i\ n is sitiiati-d on ,i peninsula wliich was forme r- 
 
 1\ .111 iskmd on tlu- somlurn co.ist ot" the island ot Disko. 
 
 This pcniiisul.i is joined to the mainl.ind 1)\- ,ui almost 
 
 le\(-l strc-tch of sand\ iKach. C'ro-sin;.^ this, tlu- first oh- 
 
 jtet in si^^ht is ilu- L;ra\i\,ird wlur;- tlu Chiisti.m 
 
 I'.skiinos lie liiiried. Tlu- rude w k n (•ross(-> .ni'l well- 
 
 ki pi mounds ni.ide it look like .i \ill.i^(- eiiiuleiA at 
 lioiiu . ^^lll\ ot the L;r.i\ i s h.id wieath'-of imnio'telles 
 and little olTeriii;^'. npoii 'iluiii, and all --howed the (.are 
 
■■"%! 
 
 r,s 
 
 /A' AKcrir si: is 
 
 and alli'iitiou which wa^ (K-\iilnl l)\- ihr lix-iiv^- to ihise 
 R->liiii;-]ilar(.-^ of l!u- drail. A ->ini]i'ii.' womlcii tToss 
 iiiarkrd llu- head of carh .L;ra\i\ and in lhi> foiiniix, 
 wlu'iT wniid is so \alualilf, thi-; sanilicf iTiin-sriiN a 
 \dV^v anioiinl of >(.'ll-(kiiial in ordi r to kvv\) :\\\\v tin.' 
 nunioiA of the- drad. Two ^ra\i.> inti-it'stcd n> ( Mu.- 
 was niarKi.(l 1)\' ,i ,<4ra\(.'->tonr of whili.' niai Wk- t-lahoralilv' 
 caiAid and i.\idrnll\ from I)riiniaik. It niarkid the 
 ;^ra\i' of Sophn-^ 'Idu-odoic Krarn]) Smitli. t""! i:;-.-.-! y in- 
 s]H,'t'ior of the M'tlU-nirnt. The Irllias writ- drrjiK- m- 
 '^ra\T(l in ihi' stonr and !^il(kd, ami a wreath ol native 
 llowei> han^^in^ ahont the arni> of the ero^s showed that 
 in the luarts of some at kast their lornier rnler was not 
 forL^otten. The other i^rave was eevtainh that of an 
 I-ai'^lishman ; a small eross hore the nan;e David llnme, 
 ihonL^h who he was an<l whether or not he was a mem- 
 ber of an\' Arctic exploiin^^ ]iart\' we wen.' nna.hk' to 
 ascertain. 
 
 Jnst hack t)\ the cenieter\- rose a basaltic riil'.4e form- 
 inL; a sort of retainin^-wall to the '^wai (diff which 
 towired two thonsand leet or mort- into tlu- air. It 
 ended on a lewd plateau, t'ternalK' snow-ciowneil and 
 tormina;' an inlainl ice cap exacth' similar to thai of the 
 mainland ol" ( ireenland. Sewral of the parts' ascended 
 the nionntains nnder the guidance of I.ieiitenant l'ear\-. 
 wdio had li\a-d at ( iodha\ 11 sex'eral weeks on his lornier 
 trip to (ireenland. They described the climb as ron^li, 
 but not excessively diflicnlt. and the \iews from the 
 nionnlain-top as indescribable mai^nificeiit. .\t their letl 
 lay the iieiiin.snla and town of (iodliax ii, with Disko Hay 
 
 I 
 
f ' 
 
a 
 
 ,1 
 
 '.I 
 
 f 
 
■n-^m 
 
 ////; III)'. K./: oi' I hi: ki i i: 
 
 \\v\ Ilanin Iia\- hcyoiul. I'.otli wiix- dt'ttrd with .L;;i-.il 
 .Mill litllc ii'ihcTj^s sliiiiin.i; liki.' ^il\t.■^ in tlif .suiili.L;Iil. 
 Tin icT cap was found almost as U\i.l as a llooi. 
 
 Anotlur parly explored llic \alk'\ of a ii\rr callid on 
 tin.' map iIk- k<.<l Ki\(.r, wliicli inns into I)i>ko l!a\ 
 ;il)oul .1 mill- wi>l of(i(Mllia\n. Il di ■^(.■r\l•<l its nanir, for 
 ll.r lid nuul wliicli it i-anicd down from tlu' sandstone 
 I'liffs al)o\f !L;a\(.- it a dit'idcdly n.(ldi>li linr. It ofcupicd 
 what liad ani-icntK Wvw a i^laciii's Iml, and the laanti- 
 ftd \all(.-\ (failed lilan/.y Dail, or \\'ind\- \'alle\ ) allowed 
 i\tr\ mark of foinK-r ^laeier action. I'roterted 1>\ tow- 
 
 1 1 1 
 
 U'- tdiffs, it was, at the season 
 
 we \ isited it, a perfect 
 
 lower-garden of wild pl.mts. 
 
 Veil 
 
 ow popples nodded oil 
 iiitt'. 
 
 every side, while nian\ otliei llowi-r>, hlne, red, and w 
 were found i\er\ where. Tlu- L^ioiind was carpeted with 
 nittss and a lew grasses, while the apoloL^ies for trees 
 >piiad tluir twisted limhs idose to the ground where\er 
 tlu' roots could find a foothohh .\s the \alle\ was as- 
 leiided the \ iew became niainiiiliceiit, for the liwr r.m 
 tiir()n<;li a narrow ,U()r,i;e at places more than a hiiiidrtd 
 fei t in depth, and all around were towerini.; mountains 
 from which ic\ streams r.in and dashed in foaming; cas- 
 cades o\er the cliffs into tlu- water below. I.ookiii'^ 
 backward, Disko I'>a\' was seen, studded with ici.l)ei''s, 
 
 some liii''e in si/.e, soiiu- oiih' llo;itin'' blocks ol ici 
 
 lie 
 
 air was 
 
 balmv, ami the water of the ba\' 
 
 a\ calm and 
 
 tiaiiiiiiil under the ])ri''ht sun. and all was ;is i)leas:iiit as 
 
 I spring- da\ in t)iir own conntr\ 
 
 r.iid 
 
 s and iiisrt 
 
 is II 
 
 ew 
 
 about Us; amoiin' them wire the snow bunting; and sr\eral 
 'i)retl\- little bntterllies of \ari(jus hues. .\lto''etlK i, it 
 
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 was hard to realize thai one was so dec]) in the land of 
 the niidni.i^ht sun. 
 
 W'e had another reminder of home in the sliape of 
 moscjuitoes, which llew al)out us in clouds wdienexer we 
 reached the lower levels. Thex' were hardly as venom- 
 ous as our Xew Jerse\- product, but at times were \ery 
 ])ersistent and annoNiu!:;. The only things that failed to 
 remind us of a land nearer home were the absence of np- 
 rii;hl trees and the iiresence of the icebergs. The trees, 
 so called, were mere bushes, perfecth' flattened to the 
 ground, and sending up a few shoots six or eight inches 
 liigh, but with leaxcs luio flowers exactly like those of 
 our own willows. The\- often formed convenient cush- 
 ions wIk-u we wished k rest. 
 
 After we luid returned to the ship Mr. \'erhocfT de- 
 clared that the water looked so pleasant that he would 
 swim from the ship to the shore and back again. Tliose 
 win; heard the assertion attempted to dissuade him, 
 pointing to the n unerous icebergs which floated about 
 in e\er\' direction. Even when he strii)ped we all 
 thought that a single plunge woidd serve to make liiui 
 change his mind. ^Meanwhile a crowd of curious natives 
 had gathered around, and were gazing at him in mild 
 astonishment. Finally he tt)ok the plunge, and at once 
 started swimming \igorousl\' for the .shore. Alarmed for 
 his safetx, and fearing thai a cramj) might overtake him, 
 I jumped into Mr. Carsien's little boat, which was moored 
 alongside the shi]\ and followed him, being prepared to 
 render assistance if it was needed. He reached the shore 
 in safel\ , howe\er, and. turning resoluleh- around, swam 
 
 fc 
 
■Mil HBlfF-Je g l ^' . ' .tiB '^ 
 
 rill-: ro): !(,/■: of iiif. kiie. -3 
 
 l)ack to the vessel, a dislance of about two liinulrcd 
 \ar(ls. He rccei\e(l, of course, an ovation, but was al- 
 most at once taken with a cliill whicli at one time looked 
 serious. A vigorous rubbin,^ restored his eirculation to 
 its normal condition, and a brief rest made him as well 
 as e\er. It was regarded, lio\ve\er, as a foolharcK feat, 
 and one which none were anxious to emulate. The effect 
 on the natives ol the sight of a swinnning man was most 
 curious. The\- regarded him with constantly growing 
 astonishment. In Greenland the only use- lhe\- know for 
 water is for drinking purposes. Probably nian\- of them 
 had accidentally fallen into the water, but tlie\- dread 
 and hate its effects as much as does a cat. They know 
 nothing of the art of swimming. 
 
 During the sta>- of oni ship at this place the natives 
 were constantly coming and g<'ing aboard of it, and we 
 were told that during the time a \essel is l\ing at anchor 
 in the harbor the\- sleep but little. Midnight being as 
 bright as niid-dav, and ha\ing no knowledge of time or 
 clocks, the\' did not seem to undersland that the rest of 
 us needed some repose. They a]ipeared to haw; no regular 
 time for sleep. 
 
 Xotwithstanding the freed(tm allowed the \isitors. we 
 did not miss an\-thing, and th(.\ were ])ermilted to roam 
 about at ])le;isure. 
 
 Their favorite resort was the cook's galley. Here 
 thev eagcrh' sought an\ renmins of foo(l or retnse he was 
 ]>leased to give them, and dexdured it grc-edilv. Their 
 capacity was simph' enormous. To test it the exjievi- 
 ment was made on a \-eteran who had established tor 
 
i 
 
 74 
 
 AV .lk\'77C s/-:.is. 
 
 himself a repntatioti for .nonnaiKlizint; wliicli was 
 "founded on a rock." It was said thai lu- and liis 
 wife, ]iavin<4' killed a seal at some distance- from the 
 settlement, sat down on a rock and proceeded to dcxonr 
 the animal. A lart^e projiortion was ccjusnmed, and the\- 
 ate until they were so engorged as to be unable for a (la\- 
 or two to start back to the settlement. We took this in- 
 terestinjj^ individual down into the cabin, and, after the 
 party had finished their meal, bej^an feedinj;^ him on the 
 remains. Salt beef, bread, potatoes, coffee, veo;etables, 
 and everythinij; edible disappeared down his throat with 
 startlin.ti^ rapidity. He ate, and ate, and ate, until, after 
 havinjT;- consumed more than enoui^h for four or five men, 
 and still showint; no sii^ns of bein.t,'- satisfied, he was re- 
 quested to stop and escorted up a<^ain on deck. After wit- 
 nessing- his performance none of us IkuI any doubt as to 
 the truth of the. story concerning; his gastronomic opera- 
 lions on the seal, as just detailed. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 Farkwki-i, to C.otmi.wx. Arkinai. at rniKNWiK. NoTtcn 
 Ti) Marinichs IX TiiK Davis Straits, "'riii: Si;tti.i;mi;nt 
 AND its Iniiahitants. — Dick Islands. 
 
 OX Monday, June 29tli, wc had intended lea\ino^ 
 (lodhavn early in the niornin.y:, bnt tlic weatlier 
 being thick and mist\', we could not .t^et out of the har- 
 bor until the fog lifted, which occurred about noon-time. 
 Mr. Koch, his wife, and little daughter arri\ed on the 
 ship a few minutes before .sailing-time, to sa\- good-bye. 
 Mr. Carstens also came to bid us farewell. lie came out 
 in a small skiff propelled by two paddle-wheels, one on 
 each side, which he worked by means of a crank while 
 seated in the centre of the boat. It was an ingenious 
 little craft of his own construction, and was named the 
 Fit I ton. At"ter he dejxarted we weighed anchor and ga\-e 
 a parting salute, which was answered from the shore, 
 and we then bade good-bye to the ])leasant little ]>lace. 
 We had enjoyed our stay ver\- much, and ho])ed to ha\e 
 the pleasure of repeating it on our return from the regions 
 farther north. 
 
 We were soon again on the ojteii sea, sail in,:; n(,»rth- 
 ward toward I'pernavik. 
 
 The change from the strange sights at (io(lha\n to 
 
 .jttM 
 
76 
 
 /.\' .ik\-r/c s/:.is. 
 
 i 
 
 IIk' ([uic't moiioloiu" of iIk- ocean was not nn^ralcTnl, for 
 all \\v\x- rather tired from our experience while in ])orl. 
 
 We steamed northward alon<;- the coast, in si,L;ht of the 
 land, all that (la\-, the whole of the following' t>ne, and 
 nntil four o'clock the next morning, when we sighted 
 Upcr'.iavik. This i)Iace is ahont one hnndred and ei^ht\' 
 miles north of(iodha\ii, in latitude 72 40'. The coast 
 between these two places resembled that below ( iodlunu. 
 It was of the same mountainous character, and showed 
 no jK-culiar characteristics. 
 
 In approaching- rpernavik the harbor is e\-en more dif- 
 ficult to discover than was that of (lodhavn, there beim; 
 no ]irt)niincnt landmarks in the xdcinity. Ca]itain Pike 
 had, however, been there se\'eral times before, and found 
 the entrance without difliculty. The approaches to the 
 settlement are (piite tortuous, it beini;' necessary to wind 
 in and out amonj;- several small islands l)efore the ])lace 
 is reached. On neariii!;;- tlie settlement the cnstonuirx- 
 salute was fired, which was responded to some little while 
 after. We arrived (lnrin,<^ the tiiue of the clay when 
 most of the iidia1)itants were asleej). A few nati\"es, 
 however, witnessed our arrival, hapjienin^- to be up and 
 about at the time, and they were soon, joined by the en- 
 tire population. 
 
 The governor and assistant _i;overnor came out in a 
 boat to see irs.but were not so aj^rceable as our friends at 
 Godhavn. This ma>' ha\e ])een due, in jiart, to the 
 weather, which was cold, rainy, and disagreeable, and 
 also, perhaps, to our making; them leave ihoir warm beds 
 at such an early hour. We too were not feeling \er)- 
 
////■; !'(>)'. !(,/■: (>/■' I III-. Kill-: 
 
 ■sociable, cauM.'il, 11(1 (l(nil)i, l)\- Uk' al)(>iiiinahk' wralliLT and 
 I)\- (lur lia\-iii!4 rciii.iiiuil on (Kok withoiil any <V<\\ for 
 iiiaiu hours, wailiii'' lor oiir arriwil al tin.' SL-tllrincnt:. 
 
 TIr' visit (if iIk' officials was of sliorl dnralioii and wr\' 
 formal. TIk'N' \c\\([ to ns an c-xtracl from the Danish law 
 ^ovcrnini; lhL'S(.' S(.'llk'inents, and k-ft a copN', i)rinl(.'d in 
 
78 
 
 /X ./A'(77C .VA"./.V. 
 
 Danisli and Iin<;lisli, with Cai)tain Pike. Il read as 
 follows: 
 
 No'i'ici-; To Mari\i;rs in thk Davis vStkati's. 
 The Hoard of Directors of the Royal (Greenland trade 
 make known: 
 
 1. It is aj^reed l)y treaties between the royal Danish 
 government and the United vStates of America, ( ireat 
 I'ritain, and other »States that the west coast of (ireen- 
 land, between latitude 60° ami 73°, be closed for navij^a- 
 tion of foreij^n shi])s and Danish ships, except by special 
 permission of the r()\al Danish _y;overnmeiit, b>' whom 
 the monopoly of trade with f ireenland is held. 
 
 2. Pursuant to the laws in force, any ship navi.t^ating 
 without permission on the west coast of Cireenland may 
 be seized, wherexer met with, and the ship and <;oods 
 be confiscated. vSimilar punishment ma\- be ai)plied if 
 any person or perscjus be found tradin<( with the (ireen- 
 landers or Danish colonists from a ship lying in a port of 
 (ireenland or off the coast. 
 
 3. vShipniasters compelled b\' shipwreck or othei 
 causes to seek port in (ireenland shall not remain in jiort 
 longer than necessary. ShijMnasters shall also be re- 
 sponsible for their crews nt)t remaining on shore without 
 necessity or in an\- way trading with the natives, with 
 whom all intercourse is altogether prohibited. 
 
 4. The ol)ject of prohibiting the navigation of the 
 west coast of ( ireeiiiand and of maintaining the monopoly 
 of trade is to protect the native population of (ireenland. 
 This pDpulatiou will l)c threatened with ruin if conta- 
 
/■///•; ro.K,/-: of ////■: kiiI':. 
 
 79 
 
 <^i()tis diseases he broiii^lil into the eouiUry, or if s])iril- 
 iidus licinors or other simihir artieks he imported. Tlie 
 l)()ard win, therefore, he ol)li<4ed todeinaiid that the order 
 prohihitiii}^ the na\i_i;ation (jf (Greenland in e\'er\' way he 
 respecte(h ill case tlie crew of any shij) shouhl not slrictK' 
 ahstain from all intercourse with the nati\-e population. 
 
 L'lirhNiiAci.N, May .Mli, 1S84. 
 
 .\ftera short conversation the governor and his assist- 
 ant returned to the shore. 
 
 \'iewed from the slii]i, the settlement was seen to he 
 
 smaller an 
 
 :1 not 
 
 so attractive and jiictnrcsque as 
 
 that of 
 
 (iodhavn. \'e^etation was even more scanty, and the 
 ])lace had (piite a desolate and dreary appearance. It 
 contained two dwellin.^-honscs, one for the <;overuor and 
 the other for the ass'siant oovernor ; there were also a 
 
 ipl 
 
 couple 01 s 
 
 torehouses, and a stone blnbher-h 
 
 onse w lie re 
 
 the fats and oils were rendered and prepared for slii])- 
 iiieiit. These huildin,^;s were similar in style to those 
 which we had seen at (iodha\n, hut smaller and less ])re- 
 teiitious. The Danish fla.i; floated from a flagstaff placed 
 in front of the go\ernor's house. 
 
 The native huts, about twenty-fi\e in nuniher, were 
 smaller and more dila])idated than those of the lower set- 
 tlement. The\- are situated at the foot of a mountaiu, 
 the water from the melting snow and ice of which trickled 
 down through the village, making e\er\ thing wet and 
 mudd\-. We did not jMish our in\-estigations very i'ar 
 into these hoxels. The natives, numbering about a hun- 
 dred, are a miserable, poverty-stricken looking set of 
 
V) 
 
 /.\' . \Rc I H' shi.is. 
 
 uiorlals. TIra' had iinlliiiiL; to tradt' imr {o sill l)iu a few 
 hinls' L-<'iiS. \\\- l)()U''Iil soiiK' of llusc, and touiid lluiii 
 
 <'o(iiI (.'atir. 
 
 i1k-\- wiTi- llu 
 
 ;s ol tin- wud <liu'ks lliat 
 
 rr(.-i|iK'nlt'd tin- iu-i'4hl)orlioo(l. 
 
 Wr wi'iv lold llial a wliak'-shi]) had rallvd \\\vxv a 
 few wcuks hc'loic oiir arrival, and \.\\v iialiw-^ liad lliiu 
 sol<l all ihaL \\w\ had lo disjxisc' of. It was forlinialt.' for 
 us llial \vr had o])taiiird our supplv' of fur (.doihini^ at 
 (io<lha\'n, as othrrwisr \vr would haw hucai uual)lL' lo 
 ha\"c i^ottcu an\'. W'c went ashon.', hut. ouly slayrd a 
 C{JU])lr of hours, as tlu' ])lacc' possessed liule of imer(.->l 
 and the weather was disa'-reeahle. 
 
 A dozen cjr more nali\es came out lo the ship in the 
 
 ir 
 
 kajaks. These naliw boats are made of seal-skins sew n 
 toi^I'dher and tiL^hlh' slrelched o\-er a li.^ht framework of 
 wood and bone, the seams beinj.;' sewn so carefulh' as lo 
 be waler-li,!nht. Thex art' abt)ul sixteen feel loui^-, less 
 than fifty pomids in weii^hl, and just wide enough lo 
 accommodate a sin,i;;le person, who sits in the centre, on 
 tlie bottom of the boat. They are sliarp at the extrtin- 
 ities, which cur\e sli<^htl\- upward, and are decked (j\er 
 
 witli ski 
 
 ns, 
 
 ■xce] 
 
 )t a sn 
 
 Kill 
 
 o 
 
 pe 
 
 nin<'- in the centre, i 
 
 11 
 
 3=^^-.=-=is^ 
 
 KAIAK AM) TAlini I-., 
 
 which the oceu])ant sits. This opening; is so small that 
 it rcfpiires some force and skill on the part of the kajakcr 
 
nil. \\>y.n,i: or- hie ki if.. 
 
 8i 
 
 to ])lacc liinisclfin position without rapsi/in:^; so that in 
 altfiMptin.iL;' to ^d in ilu'v nsnally sltadx- tlir l)oat witli 
 a paddU- ])nt in tlir water owr the side. AtUr hcinj^ 
 seated an a]iri>n made of skin is (h-awn aronnd iheni and 
 tied fast under tlie arms, tlm> preventing any water from 
 enterin.'H' tlie Ixiat. If, 1' )\ve\-er, it should capsize, they 
 are unable to ^et loose, and are often drowned. They 
 use a dotd)le-l)laded ])ad(lle made of wood, and ]iropel 
 their boats with j^reat wloeitx in all e<)uditions of sea 
 and weather. 
 
 I'asteued to the boat b\ means of leather tlion^js are 
 the harpoon and spears which they use in hunliui;. 
 
 A K \\ \kl ix. Ill I. SA\ IK. 
 
 While wandering- throu.y;h the \illa.^e our attenti(ni 
 was attracted by a nati\e who was e\idently ill. r)n in- 
 quirv we found that he was suffering- from an oM injury 
 
S2 
 
 /\ //>•( //' .sv; IS 
 
 In tlif rii^hl >lii)',il(li'i-. I''.\.iiiiiiiin;4 '•'"' I'lnir (.-Idsclv, .in 
 (t|n.'uin,L; \v,i> sriM r\tiiiilin- ilnwiiw.H'I two nr iliirf 
 
 illi'Iu'^ l"liMii llir ]Miiiil dl' llu' .sliouliKr. Ill lllr c-;i\ily 
 
 lluis i'\|iiis(.'il I),m- (U:iil IiiMir w.i-- x'i.^iMi-: I hi-- was ilr- 
 
 liiclud witli llu- riii''ir ami ;ciiiii\r' 
 
 atiil 
 
 hlii'ii'il to 111.' 
 
 tlu' rniiaiiis 1)1 ilir Iumii nt llu' anii-liniK 
 
 liad r\i- 
 
 (K'lith luHii willidtu irraiiiuiil, ami luust lia\r hmi 
 siirfrriii'' Inr imnith-. W'luu wr >,iw him thr WMiniij 
 
 iiaii 
 
 rrciunl im aUriilinii whatcMT. ami was mily pvi 
 
 Ircti'tl !)\' llu liir v(y.\\ whii'li lir wnii.'. 'I'lu- drail horn.' 
 lia\in^' hirii niiiowil, llir wmiml would start at oiu-i- tn 
 lira!, and ])iol)al)l\' in a sIhmI liuK- was (.■iilin.'K' chisrd, 
 ihoUL;!) llir use of his anil wnuld In- iui])airc'd. 
 
 The wrallRT hriuL: thii-k and t'oL 
 
 the ship was 
 
 detaiiu'il nulil ijo\d<Kd>:, wduii we ^ot lo sea and hade 
 i4(ii)dd)\ (.■ ti) r jienia\-ik. 'I'lie mNeruor and his assistant 
 Were the last wdiile nieil we eiie()iilil(.Teil (ill the noltll- 
 
 wai( 
 
 1 I rip. ( ' peniax'ik is in lalitude 
 
 ami IS llie 
 
 last Danish settleiiieiit, with the- exception of a still 
 smaller one called 'I'lissiacic, siiuali^'d tweiU\' or lweiil\ - 
 ti\e inile.^ further iiorlli. W'e clid not slop there, hecause 
 
 - and insiijniilcanl, and would 
 
 il was diilicull oi ac' 
 
 oiile haw ( 
 
 let, 
 
 lined US uuiiecessarih- 
 
 W 
 
 understi 
 
 that llie seUleUieiil was .ilniost al)aniloueil, no while 
 
 men luiii'' tliei'i 
 
 Ilexond this lalitude Denmark has 
 
 no jurisdielion nor re])re-enlali\-es. In the at'leruoou the 
 weather cleared up, nian\ ieeher^'S ccMuiu'' a''ain into 
 
 dii. \V 
 
 aw a iialU'e in ]ii> kajak, ;ihout ihri'e mile: 
 
 tVoiu the shi]), in llie \ icinilv' ot' several small islands. 
 He wa.> miles awa\ tVom ,m\ known sellleineiil, and we 
 
 1>^ 
 
■////' Id)' i<,7: Dr ////■: kin:. s; 
 
 fliil imt v\\\\ liim lii> Idin I\- IjiV. ( )ii .ih-,, i , iii.i^- lii-M 
 
 lllliMl^ll till- llKllilU- ,L;l.•|--^ lu' aj'lu. ;llcil tM Iir r.iinill^ 
 
 l(isvai(l u>, i»ul, M-'tiiiL; tli.il w >.■ kt'pl dii oiir \\:i\\ fiiialh' 
 tunird alxiul aiiti jiadilliMl l)ac-k to lii> island. 
 
 ]'*ar!\- Oic tol lowing iiKiniiiiL; wl' iwicl u-d I )iu'k Island^. 
 'riK->e \vl:\' well i;aiiic-(K as i1k\- IccUR-d with duck> and 
 
84 
 
 /N ARCTIC SI-:.\S. 
 
 all kind of \valcr-f(nvl. Wc shot about thiL-c hnndrcd 
 of them, and <;atheivd three barrels of e,y;,L,r.s in al)ont half 
 an lionr. We also fdled several lar<re bas-s with the 
 
 eu 
 
 ler-dt 
 
 own with wdiich 
 
 tl 
 
 le nests were 
 
 lined 
 
 Th 
 
 ese 
 
 islands were about two 
 miles in eireuniferenee, 
 rather liilh-, but not 
 
 monntainou> 
 
 and eu- 
 
 tirelv free from ice and 
 
 snow. 
 
 The nests were 
 
 M.>1 111' I 111. I ll)l'.l;-l>rc K 
 
 not concea 
 
 k'd 
 
 in crev- 
 
 ices in the rocks, ])ut 
 la\' e.\'])osed on the ground, in many ])laces but a few 
 feet a])art. They each contained from three to six lari;e 
 greenish e^ns. The ducks themselves were so tame that 
 they would reiuaiu on their nests until we were so near 
 as to almost j^rasp them. 
 
 The ship was not anchored at these islands, but 
 slcame(l slowh' around them until the small boats which 
 had taken ns ashore had returned. This procedure was 
 necessar\- in order to avoid a collision with the lari;e ice- 
 bersjs which were coutiuuallv driftin<'- ab )Ut us. 
 
CHAPTER VI, 
 
 CoM.Ai'siNd OF AX IcKiii:i<t;. — In thk Mi;i.vii.i.ic Hay 1'ack. — 
 
 l"l<(i}:S AND rANS.--lU"TTINC> TIlIv Ici;.— ARCTIC Sl'ORT. — 
 
 I-iiUTKNANT 1'i:ai{y hki.aks HIS I<i:g. 
 
 SOOX after getting under way we observed the inter- 
 esting sight of an immense iceberg collapsing and 
 falling into the sea with a noise like the londest thunder. 
 The reverberations were remarkable, and lasted (jnite 
 two minutes. .Many times before we had heard these 
 thnnderings an'i knew their cause, but this was the first 
 time that we were near enough to see the intensting 
 phenomenon. This large mass of ice falling into the sea 
 caused considerable agitation of the water, and our ship, 
 although at least one mile away, was \-ery perceptibly 
 rocked by the waves so produced. 
 
 Toward afternoon a prominent landmark catne into 
 view. This was a peculiarly shaix'd nu)untain on tlu- 
 Crreeuland coast, known as tlu- Devil's 'IMmmb. It is 
 2347 feet in height, and, towering far abo\e the sur- 
 rounding mountains, looks like a giganlic thumb ex- 
 tending upward from a hand. This marks the entrance 
 to the dreaded Melville Hay. It was not long before we 
 encountered a heavy lloe of ice, and made but little 
 ])rogress. .\fler a few hours' steaming we tbuud what 
 apjK'ared U) be a lead or opening in the ice, which was 
 
 I-: 
 
86 
 
 /\ .lAc/vc s/:.is 
 
 iiiinK-(liaU-I\ tollowc-il, hnl llu- waltT s]):n\' soon hn-aiiu- 
 iiioi\- and nioiT c'oiilrafUil and wc L^radiialK' lost lic-ad- 
 \va\'. In oiK- hour llu- icr liad iiol onl\- tdosrd in tVonl 
 of US, hnl asUrn al>o. and adwancc and irlrLat. \\\i\- alikr 
 ini])ossil)k'. So niucli coal was nsrd in our search for a 
 \va\- onl thai llu- caj)lain L;a\-c np llu- alUni])l for llu- 
 linu- l)cin.L;. \\"c liad onl\- worked our wax' ahoul fuc 
 niik-s ihron^h llu- Hoc wlu-n wc found our ])assa;;c ihns 
 blocked. 'I'o our ri^hl llu- Dcx-iPs Tlunnl) wa-- \isil)lc, 
 rdlhonL^Ii ([uilc fil"l\- miles awa\ . In fi'onl of n-- and lo 
 our k-fl llu- ice slrelclu-d as far as liu- i-w- could reaa-Ji. 
 I'",\en from ihe ma<tdu-ad no waU-r was lo ])v seen hul 
 llial to llu- south 1)\- which we had approached. The ice 
 was (piiu- lexel, except in ])laces \\-here -.oine of llu- 
 "pm-." had been j.imnu-d U]) al)o\e llu- --urfu'e or 
 wiiere lai'^e iceherL;-' were imprisoned in the ma>--. 
 
 Tlu-re was :d)oui a fool of snow on the ice, and in this 
 WL-re seui the tracks of the polar hi-ar; for '.\Ul\ille Wiv 
 i-~ known lo he- a la-v'oriu- ]ilace of re-sort for ihe-i- a.ni- 
 mals. it is llu-ir hahil lo wander o\er llu- lari^e ie'e--lloe-s 
 in S(.-arch of si-;ds, and this l)a\-, so comiuonlx' full of 
 lloatin^- ice-, lornr'> a ^^nod hnnlin^-^roiind for llu-ni. 
 Tluse-, the lirst hear-lracks thai we- had se-en. cause-d us 
 all to pre-pare- oui' ,mins in an',ied])atiou ol a sii^ht of tlii-- 
 mue'h-wi>Iu-ddor L^anu-; hul althou:;h we- ke-pt a shai']> 
 lookout for inan\- hours, our\-iL;il was unre-w.irde-d, as we- 
 failed to se-e- a single- one-. Se-\e-ral pholonra]>hs were 
 lake-n of tliis dre-arv sce-iu- at midni'.;ht. 'Idle following" 
 da\' the' ice- loosL-ue-d sonu-whal .uid we- were- a1)ie- to ad- 
 \-.uice a few miles, hut at s !'• M- we- were- aLiain sliu'k 
 
nil-: \\>y. K.i: <>/■ i in: ki'II-. 
 
 ^7 
 
 hard and fast. Afur sewral aU(.'niiil> \w .^aw n]i all 
 li(i]ic nl' making aii\' pru^ie-s that iu'l^IiI. '1'Ir- icx- \va> 
 ver\' lica\'\-, heiii'- six IdL-iL^lil. i'vvl thick, and iiiov ciiimt 
 
 in ;in\' diri-i'tKin was ini]Hiv>il)a\ a.s lu-a\ \' cakrs or heads 
 (if ice snrroiindvd ii- on all -ak^. -onu- ol tlit-^i- liian;^ 
 nian\- acre-- in rxtcait. < »iir hojn- \va> that on thr niov- 
 row a change of win.d or ti !c wor.ld \\\v \\> and ]ic-rniit 
 onr oiuvard ]ironi\.<s. 
 
 \\\' were now fiirl\ in the Melville Ha\' j-ac-k. 'l'lii> 
 ha\ is ne\'(.a' fri-i- from ice, and i^ alwa\< a dani^eroii< an<l 
 difliiMilt ]>laee lo tra\er--e. At niidniL;ht, the h'oiirlh of 
 
 1 
 
8.S 
 
 /A' .ih'CT/c sr.is. 
 
 July was iislicred in by firiii,!^ the ship's cannon and a 
 volley of musketry. \Vc then ran up the American fla,u^s 
 at the fore- and mizzen-niasts, dipped the ensiirn, and .y;ave 
 three hearty cheers. While here imprisoned some photo- 
 graphs of our ship in holiday attire were taken, and two 
 .seals were slujt and added to our larder. At noon the 
 ice .seemed to loosen somewhat, and by backing the ship 
 a couple of lengths and going ahead at full speed we 
 were able to force our wa\" through enough of the ob- 
 structing ice to gain some open water. 
 
 This butting and pounding of the ice cost us over two 
 tons of coal to move only fifty feet, which was a verv 
 serious matter to us should the neccssit\' for it often 
 arise, as we were far from au\- supply of coal and would 
 need all we carried to enable us to get back to vSt. John's. 
 We were making two or three knots an hour, which was 
 very encouraging headway through such heavy ice. 
 
 At last the lookout man from the mast-head im[)arted 
 to us the cheerful intelligence of more open water ahead. 
 I'-rom the topmast a fine view for mau\- miles around 
 could be had. this ele\ated position not being so exposed 
 and disagreeable as one would imagine. 
 
 In common with other .\rctic whalers, our ship was 
 proxided with what is known as a '"crow's nest." This 
 consists of a large barrel boiled secureK' to the top of the 
 foremast. It is juoxided with a seat and lined with furs. 
 vSurrouuding the to]> of the barrel and extending about a 
 foot from its edge is a light iron railing on which the 
 lookout rests the telescope. The entrance is tlirough a 
 trap-door in the bottom, which is closed after getting 
 
THE \\)y.\(',i: oi- rill- kiii-: 
 
 89 
 
 insidf, and thus forms a floor to tliis lofty perch. Access 
 to the crow's nest is olitained In" means of a swini^ini^ 
 ladder leadin<>- from the cross-trees to the bottom of the 
 cask. 
 
 After workin<j^ all ni^^ht we came to a fnll stop at S 
 A. ^r., and then made no jiroj^ress for some time except 
 with the drift of the ice, which seemed to be movinj^ 
 northward. vSnow and rain fell alternately thronj^h the 
 day, and kept ns below deck. vSome of the men went on 
 the ice to look for seals, bnt retnrned in a few lionrs with 
 no lary;er j;ame than an ivory .^nll {daxia .lllta), a bird 
 never met with sonth of (Greenland. This was the first 
 one we had seen, and a beantifnl bird it was, ha\in>;- the 
 color and j^loss of pnre ivor\'. We were no Ioniser in 
 si(;ht of land; whether this was due to having;- drifted too 
 far to the westward or to the thickness of the atmosphere 
 it was impossible to determine, and we were com])elled 
 to await the appearance of the snn or a clearin_i;- np of the 
 weather. The snow continned to fall nntil six (/clock 
 the next morning, and, allhon.i;h not hea\\- emtu^h to 
 remain lon,<;- on the deck, was snfficient to increase the 
 whiteness of the snrronndin,!^- ice. The da\- beini; dull 
 and misty, the j^lare was not so tryinj^ on the eyes as if 
 the sun had been shininjn'. 
 
 The jn'ospect of our lea\iny^ the ice was as bad as 
 the weather. Xo attempt was uiade to move the ship, 
 as from the crow's U' st no water could be seen. The 
 weather beiu!.;- so thick, it would have been imiiossible to 
 see the land e\en if it were no further distant than when 
 we first entered the pack. W'e had undonbtedl)- drifted 
 
 (' 
 
 hi 
 
 tsJiktA 
 
•/' 
 
 /.\' .iRciic si:.\s. 
 
 iii,iii\- iiiik-s Willi tlic ICC. 1)111 in what tlircctioii wr knew 
 iiol. Anxious as wc all were lo Ljel nuitliwanl, he-in- 
 last in tile ici- had iiol oiiIn- become iiioiKiloiioiis, hni 
 c\-c'n more serious than we had at lir.-;t ihoii'^ht. It was 
 necessar\- to use considc'rable coal, cwn if the fnrnace 
 fires had to l>c banked and oiil\- t'lioni^Ii steam kept up 
 to enable iis to move as ojiportiinitx- arose. The next 
 da\- found the ice still firm and fist about ns. Occasional 
 li.L^ht sno\v-S(iii;iIls were experienced, but about noon the 
 sun showed itsiaf loni^- enou,i^h lo allow us to take ;in 
 approxini itc obscrxation. and b\- ilm'hil;- ,i hori/ou of ice 
 the latilude was f »nnd to l)e about 75'. We were unable 
 to -et the longitude, and so could not determine the 
 distance we were off from the coast of (Irecailand. Xo 
 land had bc'eii in si-ht f )r se\-er;d dax's. The followiu-^- 
 da\- al>o was cloud\- ;iiid dull, with snow~S'|ualls in the 
 alleriKion. \\'e were appareutl_\- ;is h;ird and fist in the 
 ice as e\-cr. with no indications of beiir.; able lo iuo\-e for 
 some lime. An ob.-L'rvation sliowed that we had drifted 
 three miles in a soutiierly direction. The U-ninerature 
 a\-era!^-ed 31 I'ahrenheit, the lowest 1)ein'_;- 2S \ T!ie 
 weather was cold and cloud'.-, and the nx)st ,al)out tlie 
 s!ii]> and rii;,L;in!^ o-.ivc e\-er\tliiu- a white and ])liau(om- 
 like appearance. The little water that was visible be- 
 tween the cakes of ice and around the shij) had become 
 Iro/en, and made ice a (piarter of an inch thick. 
 
 Our position was rapidl\- assuming- a more ,L;ra\-e 
 aspect, as We had now no immediate hope of beim; able 
 to i^et out of the pack. The delaN' w:.s be.'omiii'^ still 
 more tedious and wc.irisome. W'e li.id uoiliin" to do, ,iiid 
 
 % 
 
 I' \ 
 
////. /■(')■, u.i: u/- I III: kill:. 
 
 'ji 
 
 nolliiii.i; was lo hr S(.i.ii Inil icu, icr lacia wIil-vl'. ; )iicr in 
 a wliik' a seal a|i]nai\'(l, l)nl \(.-r\- >li\' and hard tn.i]i- 
 jiroacli williiii sliootin;^ di^'.aucr. Wr niaiKii^rd In l;iI 
 tliixx' or lour ^uilkaiiols [Coiiihia /•'/vvA ) cacli da\', wliii-Ii 
 wt-rt' (|iiitL' ai'ci.])tal)k'. 'l'Ii<.-\- an.- a s])ii'ic'S of diu'k and 
 (k-licalr in llaNor, not kt-ini^ so fisliy as souu' of tin.- olhrr 
 l)irds wc had raU-u. 
 
 As if l)y nia.^ic, carl\- llic next morning; thr ice, wliicli 
 liad held as so lirnily in "k- .i^rasp, he^an to loos(.'ii, and 
 ?klr. Kcir.'aly, in looking ()\-er the side, noticed that the 
 ship was alk)at, and called attention t(_) it. The captain iin- 
 niedialely ordered steam np, and on starting ahead the ice 
 \-ie!de<l and we were ahle to steam loi-ahoiit halt" an lumr, 
 when a hea\-\- fou; so enx'eloped e\'er\ thin:,; that it was 
 useless to Droceed, as it was im])o-'>il)k' to ]iicl; nur \\a\' 
 thron,!4h the \-ast ikies which still retnainecl alie.id. This 
 sudden and rL-niark;d)le chan;^e in the ])ack, loM-jnin^; so 
 ([uickh' aftei' kein^ solid a kw niiniite> kc;kre, is nut 
 nnnsnal, thon-j.h dilUcnlt to explain. The la\'oral)le 
 cliam^e made n^ all mere Imptinl and clu'erlV.l than we 
 liad been for some time The lo^; continued deu.^e all 
 (law hnt late (hirim;' the ni-ht it he-an to lit't. \\k- 
 had \et se\"eral hundred miks to l;o hi'lore reacliini; our 
 ohji-ctix-e ])oint in the north. 
 
 The prospect of succ(.ss was not cncouraLiiu':^. lor we 
 knew that we had many mik-s of ice \ c-t to ]kiss through, 
 as open wat(.'r was known to he si'arce troni here north- 
 ward. This la>k would ha\'e to he accompli>lud and a 
 return made to a ]ioint further ^outh than MeKilie I')a\' 
 to ensure us L;eltim; home the s.mie year. The lhoti;^ht 
 
ij2 
 
 /A' .IKCT/C s/:.is. 
 
 of jKissiii.L; :i winter in this lonely clinic, with its months 
 of cold and darkness, was far fronionr wishes. ( )nr food- 
 snpply was not snfficient to cnsnrc ns cnon.i;li to eat, and 
 this, with the memory of other nnfortnnate expeditions, 
 presented si'ch a <flooniy picture that we endeavored not 
 to think of it. On the i ith of July land was sighted, 
 but so far away and indistinct that the locality was nn- 
 rccoj^nized. Allhou,t;li the temjicraturc was 22° Fahren- 
 heit, the ice continued to loosen, and we were able to 
 make about ten or fifteen miles. This was the distance 
 actnalh' steamed, but it was done in windinii,^ around 
 and between lari^e fields of ice, and at the finish did not 
 ])Ut us fiir from our startinsjj-place. 
 
 At ci.t;ht o'clock on the evenin<; of that day a dis- 
 tressing- accident happened to Lieutenant Peary. lie 
 was staiuliui;- near the rudder-chains, in the stern of 
 the ship, when a lar^e block of ice struck the rudder 
 with i^reat force, throwini;- the tiller violently to one side 
 and tearinjj; the wdieel out of the hands of the helmsman. 
 The riyht le;.;- of the lieutenant was cauj^ht between the 
 rudder-chains and the wheel-house, fracturin<^both bones 
 at the lower third. This, of course, comi)letely disabled 
 him for the rest of the vo\at;e, and, occurrinf^ as it did at 
 a time when all were nu)re or less worried b\' the un- 
 favorable prospect, exerted a very depressing- influence on 
 us. vScveral of the jxirty thouj^ht it better to abandon 
 the attempt for this \ear, but to this Lieutenant Peary 
 would not listen. He insisted that his le^- would be suf- 
 ficiently strong- by the following- spriu!^- to enable him to 
 execute his original jilans, and that his assistants could 
 
 W 
 
I III-: 10): !(,/■: (>/■' ////: a///:. 
 
 93 
 
 undertake and carr\' out for liim tlic work llial lie had 
 kiid out to do in the autmnn and winter. 
 
 rn(k'r th(.-se eireiinistances llure was nothinj^ to (\o 
 t)Ut to procceck Ik- was carried hrhiw, a l)ed prepared 
 in tile cabin, and the injured linih attended to. .Most 
 of the followiu!^' day was spi-iit in ])nshini; and ])Uttin.L( 
 tl;ron!L;li the ice, which was soniewliat looser than the 
 da\ before. The to.n' still continued, and it was ini])os- 
 sible to make much proj^ress. vSonie opc-n water, ab.'Ut 
 half a mile distant, was seen iVoin the crow's nest, and 
 to reach this was our ])rinci])al aim. ( )nce there, we 
 could wait for the fo^ to lift and ha\e a safer and more 
 fax'orable restini;-])lace for the slii]). \\'e desired, abo\e 
 all, to L^et a si,i;ht of land, in onk-r to enable us to la\- a 
 course with some i)r(.'cisioii, as our ship's compa>s was 
 \er\' slu.!4i4i>h, (,)wini^- to our i)ro.\imit\- to the niai^iulic 
 pole. We succeeded at last in reaching;- the opLii water, 
 ;iiid in a few hours the foi;- lifted, thus cuabliiii^ us to 
 make c(iusi(k-rable proi^ress ihroUj^h the now weakeui-d 
 and broken ice. 
 
 Duriii!,; the afternoon we found (piile a nnni!)(.-r of 
 leads and more open water. l'nfortunatel\' the weather 
 a.L;ain becaane thick, and as it was im])ossil)le to see far 
 ahead of the sliip, it was found useless to conlinm- our 
 eflorts. The water-course, if followed blindly, nii.L;ht 
 lead to more liea\-y and troublesome ice than an\- wdiich 
 had \(.'t been encounteri-'d, besides taking us far from our 
 destination, as much of our course had been run tiitirely 
 on dead reckonin;^'. The thermometer was as low as 20^ 
 duriiu'- most of the da\', Net it ditl not feel as cold and 
 
/A' ./A'(//f ■ s/:. IS. 
 
 (]\>a'^\\-'.a])]v as (luriii,L;- sonu' i)ir\'i<ius (la_\s willi a lii.L;]uM 
 U'liiiHaMl niv. 
 
 Allhi iu;^li llu' lliickiK->s of llu atiiid^iilicai' \va^ c-\- 
 Irniu-, tlu' (k-cks and ri,i_;L;iii.n' of tin- >Iii]i wvw coiiiiiara- 
 li\(.'lN ilr\. 'I'lir liiiniiilily of tin.' aiv luninl lo iiiiiiule 
 and (KlitMk' frosl-('r\ slals ii]>oii iwu-liiiii; llu- foldiKv^s of 
 the- sralrwl, co\t.'rin;^ llic ro])(.s witli a hi-aiiliful ami 
 fanta>lii- wliitr (.-oaliiit; llial .i;a\(.' to lltr wssfl a Wfinl, 
 c'wii L;liost-likc, a])])faraiu'(.'. Tin.- wcatlkT coiitinm'd 
 liail and iIk' icr was still Ikmn-v, the cakrs hriiiL;' lar<;ri- 
 than licfoif. More oir'Ii water was nu4 with than on 
 an\- da\- since- entc-rin^' tin.- iniim-nsr pack. After bnttinjn' 
 the ice lor an hour or two we wc-re enabled to enter o])en 
 water and steam tor a c(tn|)le of miles, and then the 
 hntlin^; and smashing a,L;ain l)eL;an, and lasted till another 
 stretch of water was reached. As th.e day wore on the 
 W(.-atlK-r l)(.'came clear and line, and was of ^reat assistance 
 in the naN-i'^ation of the ship. We were favored, that 
 afl<-rnoon. with tlie first si.^hl of kind we had had lor o\er 
 three da\"> — to ns a most a;^reeal)k- chan,i;e. It was too 
 I'ar awa\- for ns to he able to reco,L;ni/e any distinguishing- 
 landmarks, bnt we ran toward it, and expected to make 
 out our exact position tin.- tollowini; da\ . 
 
 The "' ])Uttini; "' or forcim; our wa\- throui^h the lieavx' 
 ice wa> a most interesting.^- procednre, althoni;!! at times 
 soiuewhal terrifxin^-. A ]>erson seein;^- it for the fir'-t 
 time is so imiM'esM-d that he is not likeh^ e\-er to for'^^et 
 it. We were Compelled to resort to it so often while in 
 the Mebille I'.av ]-)ack that it ceased to be a no\-elt\-, and 
 on]\- when it was so \iolent as to thiow one of us to the 
 
 / 1 
 
 
I. 
 
 "T^ 
 

 :\',)i^ ! 
 
/■///■; ro): k,/: (>/■ ////: a///; 
 
 95 
 
 (U'ck or <iut (if liis chair did it catisf coiiniiciit. "" Hutt- 
 ing," to Msc llu' tiiiu usrd 1)\- sailor> in [\\c>v seas, con- 
 sists in torciu'^ {\\v >liij) against [\\v lar;_;(,- llo(.'> or ]lan■^ ol' 
 irr, litluT to hrcak llicni into lVa,L;nit.-iil> or to foiiT tluni 
 to one side. 
 
 'Pile " pack," as the wliole «^Teat fuld of it'e i> called, 
 is made u]i of " noe>,"' sonu' hein;^ so lar^e that the iac 
 can hardly >ee their rurlher extnanitv-, and "])an>^," 
 whicli are small, ol'ten amounting; to little more than 
 ice-l)locks. The edi^is of these it'e-fudds are ot" conrse 
 \er\' irrei^ular, and hetween them, in iIk' >iimmcr-lime, 
 :ire ])assa^es or " K'ads " ot' water. ( )ften one tloe Jn-l 
 touches another !)>■ a single coiner, ami heyoiid, the le.ul 
 \vi<lens out into (|nile a chaniKl. It then becomes mces- 
 sar\- to hrtak off this corner to reach the clianmd. 'J'liis 
 is accoini)lished by backing the ship tor sex'cral ship's 
 len,^tlis and then steamiii!^- at lull .siieed ahead a.'^ainst 
 the projecliii!^'- corner. The shock, as the ]>ro\v ot' the 
 ship strikes the ice, is terrific. Sonielimes the I'oriier 
 breaks ol'f and the ship sli])s easil\- ihrom^h into the new 
 channel, while more Iretpiently, so far as the no\ ice can 
 see, no a]')precial)le effect is produced. Then tlie cno- 
 lution is re])eated ai^ain and ai^ain until tlie end is ac- 
 coniplislied or the captain sees that further efforts are use- 
 less. 
 
 It need scarceh' be said that the work reciuiro the 
 f^rcatcst skill, knowdcdj^e. and caution. If the comer is 
 l)rokcu, it ma\- cause tlie icc-fields to revohe toward 
 each other, the channel to close, and jnit the ship in 
 ,t;reat danger of being nij)pe(l and crushed b\- the heavy 
 
')'• 
 
 /.\- ./A'(7/( .VA'. IS. 
 
 1 \ 
 
 dors. AH ].()ssil)lc' (-•ircunist.UKH-s must he tahcu into 
 cniisidriMtioii I)\' tlir iix-pilot, and it ^axc us a k't'lini;' of 
 fonrKlrncc to si(.' tlirsc- liar(l\- W'wronndland sailors at- 
 tack till' ice willi snrli i)(.-rtVct assnrani-f and calm- 
 ness. 
 
 At tinus, t'wn wlu'ii tin.' (lors arc qnilc thick, the ice 
 
 is hrokrn without dit'iicult\ , while on the other hand llie 
 
 shi]) is often hioui^ht to a standstill 1)\' mere toni;ne.> or 
 
 slight projeclious wdiich seem to (U 1\' the Uivvv of sleauK 
 
 In the latter case one always has to act with ;^real can- 
 
 lioM. sinci' it shows that hea\'\' pressure is kt'e])im; the 
 
 ice firm and solid. When suidi a t()n,L;ue is broken the 
 
 []t)v- are a])t to come toL^cther at some other ])oint, not, 
 
 as wf had inia'^iiK\l. with snddennos and force, hut with 
 
 a scarcel\- perceiitihle mo\-enieut. They seemed to le- 
 
 \()l\e upon their t^uities on the release of tlu' point of 
 
 iuipat't, slowK' hut surely approaching- eacii other until 
 
 tiie\ aL;ain touched, and, crushing; their edL^es, came to 
 
 a com])lete stop when the resistance of the ^reat lloes 
 
 checked the lorce ol tilt.' currents wdiitdi mo\-ed them. 
 
 Of cour>e a \'essel caught in such a closin.i;' channcd has 
 
 .scarceh a chance ot escape. If the ice catches her amid- 
 
 shijjs, the sides are crushed as if made of cardboard, wdiile 
 
 il, b\ some fortunate a-'cidenl, slu' rises on tlu- lloi', she 
 
 nuist remain impri>oned until anotlu'r change breaks u]) 
 
 the ice-field and a^^ain allows her to lloat, should the 
 
 rou^h treatment recei\ed not ha\e made her totalh- un- 
 
 seaworlhx'. 
 
 'I'his is the cause ci most of the accidents which ucca- 
 .siou tiK' lo.->s ol \(.s>(.Is in the Arctic rcijit.Mis. It was in 
 
////■; I '(>)'. 1 1,/: ()/■ ////■ A/ //■: 
 
 '>/ 
 
 this inaiiiKT that ihv I'lulnis was wirc-lcfd whtii witliin 
 a iVw \ aids of opi'ii watrr. < )iir captain tohl us that 
 those oil the \ (.1, l)(.Mn^ uiifaiiiiHar with the ice, le- 
 fiist'd to l)elicve in tlie dani^cr, insistin.i; tliat the >Iii]) 
 couhl accomplish tlie slii^ht reinaiiiin,^- (hstaiice, and 
 would not heliew, until tlie ice actually came throuL^h 
 the ship's side, that the vessel was in such iniiiiiiient 
 ])(.ril. ()nl\- a few hours ai'ter the accident the lines 
 a.^aiii separated in the same slow, majestic manner in 
 which the\- had come to^'cther, but tlii- /'mh us sank in- 
 staiitl\- to the depths of tlie oct-aii, and what would ha\e 
 ])n;\i.il !ier homeward ])ath, witliont <liniciilt\' or daiiL;er, 
 was tra\ersed in t'.K' whale-boats by which the retreat 
 to safety was made. 
 
 In the midst of the ,L;reat ice-])acks there are fre(|neiit]\' 
 "lakes" or spaces of open water, through which the 
 slii]) can pass nii.il another icy wall stops its progress; 
 tlu-ii a new "lead" must be looked for, and the bnttiiiL; 
 rc'coinnienced. 
 
 .So the da\s sli])])ed by, sometimes findiiiL;- ^ood leads, 
 while otlu-rs were com])lctel\' blocked b\' tlu- masses of 
 ice in front. \\\- tried alwa\s to make .soiiie pro:L;re--s, 
 and ^enerall\- succeeded in finding a safe anchoraim fur 
 the \ess(.'l when it was found impossibk- to ])i<)ceed far- 
 tlu-r. The ship in these w, iters is not anchored to the 
 bottom (for this, we found b\ sonndiiiL;, was from si\ to 
 nine hnndred fathoms deep), but tn the tloes theiiiseKes, 
 and for this purpose- it was pro\ided with claw^ or i^reat 
 I'ooks of iron. When progress was barred the sailors 
 r.in out upon the ice, aii<l, cuttiiiL; a hole in the lloe, sank 
 
98 
 
 /.v .1KC77C sr:.is. 
 
 the hook deeply in the solid ice, tlius pi-eventini,^ the sliip 
 fromdriftin.o; from the favorable position which had been 
 selected until some movement of tlie pack opened up a 
 
 fresh lead. 
 
CIIAI'TI'.R \'II. 
 
 Ax Accini-AT To Tin: Siin>. Niri'i.D i\ Tin; ki:. -I!i.ast 
 INC.— Wi: Kii.i. A Hi.AK. Tai;!.!; ki:i'.i;i;(,s.— Cai'i: York 
 !^ic.nTi:i). Dkiitint, wrni nii; I'ack. 
 
 Ol'R pro.^rcss was ui' coiirsL' fxc(.-(.-(liiiL;l\' slow. ( )n 
 July 151I1 llie wrallicT cleared a link' and land was 
 seen in tlic dislance. ( )l)S(.-r\'alions showed llial we were 
 in latitude 75' i' north, and that, consecpienth-, in ele\en 
 da\s of constant strn^i^le we had adxanced only fiiiv 
 miles. Xexertheless, patches of open water were more 
 frecpiently met with than before, and this was acconnted 
 b\' the operienced sailors as a most enconrai^im^- sii;ii 
 of our release from what had ,<;rown to be an almost in- 
 tolerable imprisonment. The weather was bri!:;ht and 
 pleasant euous^h to allow one !o ,i.;o ni)on deck or on the 
 ice without sulTerin^' in the least from the cold. In these 
 hii^^h latitudes the heating;; ciTect of the sun's ra\s is like 
 that felt on a mountain-t(Ji>, and i.\en though the 
 thermometer was constanth- below the free/.in,!:j^-[)oint 
 our heavy clothin;^- often felt o])pressi\e. 
 
 In the afternoon, while steamin>; alon^ through com- 
 paratively loose ice, the rudder was struck by a heavy 
 ice-cake and a link of the rudder-chain snai)ped. This 
 was an unfortunate accident, for it invoKed a delay of 
 three lu)urs f»jr repairs, and by the time the\- were com- 
 
 i:.'. |^pi 
 
loo 
 
 /.\' .lA'C/VC S/:.IS. 
 
 ])lc'tL'(l our fa\-()ral)k' k-ad liad closed and wt- were ai^aiii 
 bruuj^lil to a coiupk'le slo;.. An (.'xaniinaliou of llif iVaL;- 
 nicnts of the chain showed tliat it's hieakini^ was (hie lo 
 tile fact that tlie iron had Ijeen cr\ stalli/.ed 1)\- the r^'pealcd 
 sliocks and blows lo which the metal had been snbjecled. 
 
 The lead c ])ened on tie following- mornini;-, and tlie 
 operation of butting' and forcing; the ice was ai^ain re- 
 sorted to. We made fair j^ro^ress, thon^h the weather 
 was thick and niist\' nnlil abont 4 p. M., wdien we hmnd 
 onrseKes in a small lake. While the o|)])osin,L; wall was 
 b(.ini4' dili,!_;entl\' searclK-d for a lead it was noticed b\- tlie 
 ca])tain that the Hoes constituting- the sides of the lake 
 were Ljradnalh' coming- t(\L;elher, and we found oursehes 
 confronted with the possibility of a " nip," that worst 
 of all Arctic accidents. A lake was oi)enini; just ahead 
 of the ship, and to it the ca])laiu delermined to tr\' and 
 work his wa\'. A narrow lead passed from one lake lo 
 the other, and into this channc-l the shi]-! was forced. 
 We had almost passed through, bul a single an^le of the 
 ice barriui^' our jiassai^e and iIk- bowsprit oxerhanniuL;; 
 ihe place we desired to reach, when we snddeid\- f )uud 
 that our progress was coni])letel\- slop])ed. TIk' shi]) re- 
 fused to ^o either ahead or astern, and it was c\-idenl 
 ih.it il was caught betwien the eili^es of the Hoes which 
 couslituted the bordvrs of the lead. We were ui])ped in 
 the ice. 
 
 Captain I'ike and hi,; crew realized, of course, the 
 peril in which we were, bnl, like true sailors, i^.ue no 
 e\i(k'nce ol il, nor did an\' ol us know of the dau:,;er uulil 
 il was safeK' passed. 'Vhv s.ulors, followed b\ man\ of 
 
 'V , 1!'} 
 
 
////•; ro): !(,/■: o/' ////: kin:. 
 
 U)\ 
 
 liK' ]iarl\\ al once junii)cil on llie icc and allcMnplLil to 
 open a ]iassa,i;c with cr()\vl)ars and wooden beams. It 
 was found, liowcwr, loo lliick lo rrnder lliis feasible, 
 and we were initialed into another Aretic de\iee: lioles 
 were (h'illed in the ice', and a bottle fdled with '^\\\\- 
 powder, attached to which was ,i fnse that had the ])o\,er 
 of biirnini^- niider water, was lied to the end of an oar; 
 the fnse beiniL;' ignited, the oar, with the bottle altachetl, 
 was sho\'ed thron,L;h the o])enin,!4- ■'"•^ down nnder the- edi;e 
 of the ice, wh.'re it exjiloded. 'Idle first alteni])l laileil 
 on acconnl of the imperfect sealim^' of the bottle, and the 
 second failed for the same reason; a '''rd bottle e\])loded, 
 bnt without effect on the ice. Two more were sininl- 
 taneonsh' exploded, and a i^real c;ike was blown from the 
 edi^e. The ship was at once pnt astern, and in a few 
 minnles it was in comparati\e safet\' in a corner of 
 what had been the larL;e lake we had left. 
 
 .So little did we realize the danger of otir silnation 
 that those of ns who were not assivtin^ the crew spent 
 the lime in ,^ambo!lin^ on the ice with the do.!.;s or in 
 l)holo!.;rapliinn- the ship and the nier endea\-orinL; to le- 
 lease her. The next da\- the captain pointed (jnl the 
 location thai the >hip had ociMi]iiL(l. It w:; . piled np 
 with irrcL^nlar blocks ol ice from thirteen to twent\ feet 
 abo\e the snrface of tlu' tloes, showing the tc-rrific fort'c 
 with which these had coinc together; yet so >low and 
 majestic is their movement that it is only aftea- >\\v\\ ,in 
 object lesson as this that one can realize the lorce behind 
 them. 
 
 This was destined to be an e\entlnl daw The \'es- 
 
 '■^'"-'^ 
 
'im^R^^ftgHis-csmiM^ii 
 
 I02 
 
 /.V . IKC7/C S/:. IS. 
 
 s<j1, soon after, lia\-in^- l)ri.u iiiaik' (:\>[ to the ice (a safe 
 liarljor lur it Ikumiil; l)een Iwund), some t)t' tlie paitN' 
 started out 14)011 the Hoes to shoot tlie ,miilIeniots which 
 
 KtL-ly. I'jiirk. K'iii:i1y. 
 
 IN AKi I ir A M lUi: 
 
 Cit.-pn. 
 
 wer<> e\erv\vliere plentit'ul, wliile tlie rest retired to the 
 sechisiou of the cabin, not relishing- the damp, cold air, 
 and aimiscd lhcmsel\"es 1)\ readiui;- and chattiiii^-. Il 
 was alxnit 10 ()"ck)ck at iiii^lil when one of tile sailors 
 oiKMied iIk; door of the cabin and, in a voice of suppressed 
 excileinent, uttered the simple word, "I'.ear." In an 
 instant all was confusion, for we were all anxious to 
 view the j^reatest .^anie of the Arctic region. Ivich one 
 made a jump for his ritle and then rushed for the door. 
 On r(\,,^1-, ',15^ the deck we looked out upon the ice and 
 .sc. \- .r. .. 11. He was about three hundred yards olT, 
 ■:.. tl'.- (. . .n.\ient liis presence occasioned was increased 
 
11 n: ro.K,/-: (>/■ ////■: kiii-:. 
 
 i'\i 
 
 \vlicn it was discoNcitd lliat lir was k'isnrcK' hut sntflx- 
 ai)pr()acliiii,L;- the sliip witli his piiailiav hnnhiaiii,^- ,^ail. 
 Ik- woiihl slop v\cx\- iVw yards, liold up his lKa(h ihtii 
 swin.t^ it sh)\vl\' iVoni siik- to side.-, aud ai^aiu ajipioarli. 
 \\\ tlic- captaiu's diixctidn Wf crouched hchiud tlic liul- 
 warks of the sliip and vested our riHe-ljarrels ou the rail. 
 It is tile habit of the pohir hear to approach au\' slrauL;e 
 ol)ject lie may see until he comes near enough to scent 
 it. His eyes are (piite small aud his \isioii poor, aad he 
 frecjueutly approaches \es>els which are out of his raiii^f 
 of scent. 
 
 It was fortunate that tlie wind was blowiiiL'' stron,!^l\- 
 from the direction in which he was comini;-, and he was 
 unable to disco\-er, by his keen sense of smell, what or 
 who we were, or to reali/.e the danger he was iiicnrriuL;. 
 
 While lie was slowly approaching^ the captain weiii 
 below to in\ite Mrs. Peary aud the rest who were in thai 
 ])art of the sliij) to come and set' the L;reat animal. \\\ 
 the time they reached the deck he was much nearer than 
 when first discoxered, and still ct)ntinued his approach, 
 though slop])iniL; more fre(pieull\' to regard the ship, and 
 then alteniateh' walking and loi)iu^ in a pla\ful man- 
 ner, evidently determined to iiu-esti^ate the curious 
 monster. This most interesting performance was cut 
 short, when he was but lift;, \ards from the ship, by the 
 sf)und of a shot fired at some birds by the i)arl\' out on 
 the Hoe, wlio, l)ein!L; in tlie opposite direction, had of 
 course no i(k'a of the situation. luslanlly the I'car 
 stopped aud reared iqion his haunches. This was too 
 luucli for one euthnsiastic watcher, and, a<;ainsl the 
 
 \ 
 
iMj /A' . //,'(•//( ■ .sy;. IS. 
 
 ;u'cvpk'(l ouk-y thai wu should all liiv I <)-<,■ 1 1 if r wlnii llic 
 si-iial was -ivni l)\ iIr. captain, he shot al ihr hear. 
 'Vhv rrpori of liis rillc- was ]ianll\- luMrd wlnii a ^■olk•y 
 was (•irc'<I anil tlu- In-ar sla--viv(l and tl-ll. Wc Mippo>c-(l, 
 ■)l coinsi', that hew, IS (lead, and jumped tVoui the side 
 ;)l the \-essel to reach and exauiim hiui. The -real 
 white' ])ear is not, however, >o easil\- killecK and hefoie 
 we could -el to hiiii he wa> on his feel once more and 
 made a sla--erin- rush for tln' water. His >]ionlder was 
 nppareulh- hrokiai, and he fell he.pieuth-, hut still .-^tum- 
 hlc'd on, wliile tliose on the ice who lia<l taken their rifles 
 with them fired shot after shot in \ain. The excitement 
 'tclore tile \-ollev was fired was ver\- ,L;rcal, but now it 
 was at l"e\er pitch, for we knew from what wc had heard 
 that il he reached the open water he was sate. 
 
 The .\rctic sailors call these heaNls tlie \valerd)ear, 
 because t]ie\- can swim with -reater speed than a boat 
 can be propelled bv oars. If the bear was not dau^er- 
 "uslv linrt, therefore, he would ocape, and if, as we found 
 alterward to be the case, he was niortallv wounded, his 
 lH)d\- would sink, and thus a-aiu we would h)sc him. 
 Theshootin- wasc()iise(pieiitl\-oftlie wildest descriiUion, 
 and probablv verv few of the bullets reached tlie tar-et. 
 vSla--eriu- fillin- and leavin- a l)road trail of l)lo(„l 
 on tile snow-covered ice, he ran for the lead some two 
 hundred \ards off, and had almost readied the ed-e of 
 the lloe when a well-directed bullet struck him in the 
 base of tlu' skull and he snceumbed: the prev was ours. 
 Maii\- willing- liauds niauued the l)oat, wliitdi was at 
 oiiee launched, a line wa> put about llie I)ear's neck, and 
 
 ,! 1 ; 
 
l-JJi 
 
riii: \()Y.\(.i: <)/■ iiii: kiii:. 
 
 lo: 
 
 1k' was 1()\V(.-<1 in Iviuiniih to llir si(K' of tlu' >liii>. Iltiv, 
 l\iii!4 at full k'li^lli (»n thr ice, he was |)li()liii^ia]ilKil and 
 nuasurtd. \\v proxcd to he a full-^rown male. In liis 
 I)()(l\- were nnnieious hnllel-lioles, showint; tlial almost 
 all the hnllels of tlie original \()lley had striiek him. 
 ( )ne had ])i(.reed his lieart, while anollur had Inoken 
 the shoulder. To lia\ e heen so active, and to ha\e 
 
 shown the \italit\' which lie did after recei\ini 
 
 >ucn 
 
 serions wounds, shows the remarkahle endurance ('f 
 these animals. lie was accounted 1)\ the sailor> to hi- a 
 lar^e s|HiMmen, and measured se\en feet one inch in 
 length, and stood three feel four inches hi,L;h at the 
 shoulders. The sole of his foot was fourteen and one- 
 half inches in length, and he weighed between six and 
 sewn hinidred iionnds, The fur was \-er\' thitd-;. louir, 
 and of a yellowish-white color, in marked contrast to the 
 l)nre whiteness of the snow. His claws and tteth were 
 \er\- larne, and his skull so thick as to be almost iiuul- 
 nerable. 
 
 .\s I.ietitenanl Peary desired the meal for jiroNisionint^ 
 his camp, the hide was removed and the risl of the car- 
 cass cut into (juarters, as is commonly done with beef. 
 Most unfortnnateh-, the two hind (juarters were lost 
 while l)ein,^- washed iM"e[)arator\- lo han,i;inj^' them in the 
 forctop for ]M'eser\-alion. A careless sailor hail lasUned 
 ihcm lo a line with a loose knot, and, slijipini; from this, 
 they sank. The rest was safel\' stored awa\', to be added 
 lo the larder of the little encampment ;il Whale Sound. 
 
 Thereafter a careful watch was ke])t for these ^reat 
 animals, but, although tracks were plentiful, we were 
 
loS 
 
 /.\' . //>'( //( s/:.is. 
 
 iKil n'waidiil will) llir >i,L;lit of ;m\ ninrr until IwndaN's 
 hilrr, uIkii a slir hrar and lirr twd iMih^ wire .sixii at a 
 ciin^idi rahlr di^lan(^,• iVuni tlir slii]>, lluir \ (.How i>li lur 
 in.d^inL; tlirni c'Uail\- di>tin,L;ni>lial)li.- aL;ainst llir ic\- 
 hackj^roiind. Thi.' \i»(.l was iK-adrd in llirir diicT'lion, 
 and, a> in [\\c case- of ihr loinur biar, tliry i'\ incid iu> 
 Irar of llu' siran^r oI)jrct. rnlorlnnaUdy, Wf wx'W i-oin- 
 lalUd lo Ljo to windward, and as soon as tin.' si'cnl icaclu'd 
 llu ni i1k\ c-oiuiiK luxd to r(.lri.'at. Tin.' niotluT l)i.ar 
 ronld inn lik'' a race -Iiorsi.', hut she .slo])])cd (.Airy onci- in 
 a wliiK- to wv'^v \u'v rnl)s to t^riMlrr speid. llfiuL; ont of 
 ran^c of our rilk'S, a ediasr was or,naniz(.<l. TIk' i)arty on 
 llu' ivv priMiiltd a ratlur Indicrons picture runniuj^ an<l 
 slnnd)lin^ owr its ron,i;li and liunnnock\- surface, wdiiU- 
 the hears progressed without the slightest difl'iculty and at 
 a far i^ '"eater rate of spc'cd. The chase was soon al)audoncd 
 and the part\' recalled, the ship itself Inaui; started in 
 jnnsuit; hut the lead was fdled with hlocks of ice wdiich 
 relarded our progress, and the hears were so thorouL^hh 
 frightened that lhe\' disappeared without a siui^^le shut 
 l)einL;- lued, and we saw iheni no more. 
 
 Alter the excitenient of the killinii; t)f the hear had 
 snh>rle(l the uiouolon\- of the x^ya^e was a^ain resniMcd. 
 ()n tile next allernoon snow fell in lari;e (|uautitit ■;- - 
 lar;4er, in fict, than at an\- lime since we had s' ir'.ed 
 north — and the <lay looked like a midwinter one al lioinc. 
 W'e sleanud ahead at the rale of lour knots an hour for 
 twent\-foin' liour^^, the water heiui; now com])arativel\' 
 open. .Much driit ice and enormous table icebergs were 
 jiassed, hut !>\' carelul steering' we avoided all collisions. 
 
 
 i)'f| 
 
////; !(')'. K./: (>/■' I III kill: 
 
 i( 11/ 
 
 It i-^ (lirficilll to c>til)l;itc tin ->i/r (if \\\c ;^rr;it In'Ij^s set 
 t"uT iViMll tllf I4l;u'i(.l- of tilr l,ir Ndllll. Till |L;iU'>sr> (i! 
 till' n(i\iri> \V(.if ai'iKin ntly ,is .ii'rtn H'- ;is tlioM' of llu' 
 iwiKt inu'id siiilois. All, Iii)\\i\ (.r, a^ind lli.it llinsr \\r 
 saw thai (la\ Mupas^i'd in ^'v/.v auv mth l)il"(iir. ( )iir 
 was iIi()1il;1iI 1>\ tin.' nl'fu'iis of ilir AV/^ to In- iiKur than 
 six niik'S in kai,i^tli, and stixli'lied its \i.rtiral walN I'nllN- 
 
 
 ../^/^P 
 ■, ^^, _ 
 
 r/^^ 
 
 
 
 
 A (.K! A I \i 'l: I III i:n hi W K'i. 
 
 three hnndii'd iVrt aboM.' llu' water. Tlu' crew's nest en 
 (inr mast-head was s(.Aeiil\' lul al)ii\i' the cKck. and at 
 this hei;_;hl it was aiiparrnt that llu- Itip snilai'e ti|' tin- 
 ^ri'al table ol' iee was still far ahoxi' it. 'Idle l)(.-r,L;s nut 
 with in this loealit\- were unite diri'ereiit iVnin tlii)-<e ]ire- 
 \-i(in>l\' encountered. 'iduA- were no longer rnL;,L;ed in 
 outline, with iiiniuudcs and \aried slia])cs, hnt, latlur, 
 linL;e blocks ot" icL, ne.irU' s(inarc and ol" iiiinien>t' si/c. 
 'riie\' had e\id,cntl\- been recentK' relea>ed iVoni the 
 
I KJ 
 
 /.V .lA-C/VC .SVi./.V. 
 
 P 
 
 j^Mval '^rlacirrs of tlie Xnrlli, and the water and air had not 
 vvi Iiad a chance to car\c thcni into llic cnrioiis spires, 
 caverns, and towers whicli liad cliaractcrized tlie icebergs 
 seen floalinj; from the ghiciers further south. 
 
 The (h'ift of tlie water in tliese seas, so far as could be 
 made out, was northward alon.^- the west coast of (jreen- 
 huid as far as ]\Iel\-ille P>ay. Here the stream is deflected 
 to the west !)>• the sontherl\- flow of the Arctic current 
 and the projection of Cape York, and, sweeping down the 
 east oast of Xorth America, emerges finally in the open 
 ocean south of Xewfoundland. C)ccasionally this icy 
 current flows down our Atlantic coast, and bathers are 
 then made to suffer from the loweied teuiperatin'c of the 
 water. 
 
 On Jul\- iStli we caught a glimpse of Cape York, but 
 the weather was cloud \- and foggy, and wc could not be 
 sure of our exact jiosition. The next day found the 
 weather still dark and gloomy. A bitterly cold wind 
 tVom the south-west was blowing, and the black, threaten- 
 ing sk\- gave the scene an appearance of midwinter. An 
 occasional snow-s(|uall added ewn more to the dreary 
 outlc)ok, and gave us a faint idea of the misery and hard- 
 shi]")s to be encomitered in legions farther north. 
 
 Xo attempt was nuule to mo\e the ship. We suiv 
 posed that we were still somewhere in the neighborhood 
 of Cape York. ^ ut as the da\' was dark and our conqiass 
 so uncertain, a..d we had had such an imperfect sight of 
 land, we did not know in which direction to proceed. 
 The ice was troublesome — so much so that we were en- 
 abled to make but a few miles in the direction in which 
 
Till'. \oy,]i'.h: or iiir. kiii-:. 
 
 1 1 1 
 
 \vc iufcrrt'd llic land to l)c. The icebergs were \ery 
 numerous, and still larger and higher than any we had 
 yet encountered. On July 20th, at 4 v. M., the fog 
 rolled away sufficiently to allow land to l)e seen to our 
 right, and Cape York, latitude 76" 2', longitude 6(S 4', 
 distant only seven miles, w-.s in jilain view. The chro- 
 nometer was found to be correct, and the jirospects of our 
 vo\age looked more encouraging. We had intended 
 landing on the cape to undertake some explorations, but 
 ice was again more abundant, and it was found impos- 
 sible to reach the shore; indeed, so hea\-\- and treacherous 
 was it that even if we had succeeded in gaining the land 
 our return to the ship might have been made impossible 
 by the breaking up of the floe. 
 
 Mr. Duniphy, the second mate, ha\-ing gone a short 
 distance away from the ship on the ice, was surprised to 
 find a small piece of board about a couple of feet long. 
 Manv were the siKxnilations and conjectures indulged in 
 as to its nuxle of getting there. We could think of no 
 more plausil)le cxi^lanation than that it ha<l been thrown 
 overboard from .some whaler which, possiblw might ha\e 
 preceded us earlier in the season. Small though the in- 
 cident was, it .served to break the monoloiu' of oiu' >la\' 
 in the ice, and gave, for the time being, a new dir ■ctit)n 
 to our thoughts. 
 
 This day was bright, warm, and sunn\-, the be>t we 
 had enjo\ed for two weeks, and a most agreeable change. 
 To the north the ice was as hea\\- and impassable as that 
 .which was between us and the shore. 
 
 ( )ur an.xietN' was increasing dail\. We were desirous 
 
112 
 
 /.v .]k'cric SR.is. 
 
 of ivacliiii!^ our (Ustiiiation as soon as possibli.', lor the 
 suiiiiiRT was ])assiii,!^ ra])i(ll\-, an<l il would soon l)i' 
 nc-c'L'Ssary U) coinnicncc- our return. Delay would in- 
 crease the (lanj^er of our heinj^' caus^ht in the ice, and ])er- 
 haps compel us to remain all winter. The following' 
 da\- was also l)ri,L;ht and clear, and the land near cnouijh 
 to allow us to L;et a j;ood idea of the country. Several 
 lar^e f;l;iciers were plainly visible, and the snow-covered 
 mountains were ^rand and iniiMJsinj;-. The ice continued 
 to bar our way, and to the northward was one solid pack 
 whose limit could not be made out from the mast-head. 
 It was the most formidable ice we had yet encountered, 
 and we feare»l it mij^ht prevent further progress. 
 
 We waited here four days, ho])ing all the while lor 
 the ice to break and permit our ]Kissagc. To tlic south we 
 still had a good chance to escape sliotdd we deem it ad- 
 \isable to beat a retreat and renounce all hope of reaching 
 Whale Sound, which was still one hundred and sixty 
 miles to the northward. Matters now a.ssumcd a rather 
 gloom\- look. It was ini])ossible to land I/ieiitenant 
 Pear>' on tiie shore at this point, even had he desired it; 
 and, could we have done so, it would ha\e been neces- 
 sary for our small party to drag all the stores, supplies, 
 and materials for his house, on ini]irovised sledges, o\er 
 the rough and treacherous ice a distance of ten miles. 
 At any time the ice-pack might have broken up an<l 
 drifted far away, leaving perhaps jtart of the lientcMiaut's 
 effects on the land and the rest on the ship, which, cau.i^lit 
 b\- the drifting ice, would lia\-e l)een miab'e to return and 
 land the remainder. \\\\ plan which inxolved the I'os- 
 
 I 
 
 w 
 
 

 :'■///•; /v) )•.//;/-; oi- mi-: kite. 
 
 113 
 
 sil)ilit\- of such a scparalioii of tin,- iKirl\' and stores would 
 imperil llu- succxss of the cnlcrprisf, brsidrs k'axiui; the 
 expedition a hundred and si.\t\ miles farther south than 
 had been anticipated, and was not tcj be thought of 
 
 Lieutenant I'eary was still confined to the cabin with 
 his broken lej^-. He was very patient and hopeful 
 tlironi>liout this tryin_i^ ordeal, and, notwithstandin,<; lia\- 
 \\v^ all the responsibility of the expedition resting- upon 
 him, remained cheerfid and sanj^uine of success. This 
 .served [^reath' to cheer us at a tinu' when we most needed 
 cnconra<;enient. On the afternoon of the fourth da\- a 
 stront;- wind from the east came up, and was rej^arded as 
 a favorable siiiu b\- our captain, who said that if it con- 
 tinued for a couple of da\ s it would separate the ice and 
 leave us a channel b\ which we nii,L,dit be able t(; work 
 our way onward. The pack seemed to be drifting; north- 
 ward, taking us alon,<;- with it. This ajipcared to be due 
 to a surface current, as the icebergs driftini^ south showed 
 the existence of a deeper current tending in that direc- 
 tion. 
 
 There was no lack of sport. Thousands of birds were 
 to be seen in everv direction, and in such llocks that 
 many could be brought down b\- a single discharge. 
 There were several varieties, but the do\kie or little 
 auk were most nnmerons, and were brought to the ship 
 by the hunters in consider.able nund)ers. Hardly a day 
 went by without a seal or tw > being obt. lined, and. with 
 the meat of the bear latel\- killed, our table was ])lenti- 
 full\' supplied with fresh meat. 
 
 I 
 
'I! , 
 
 •i ' 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 T'Ri:k onck :\Ioui;.— Cai'ic Fakky and W'iialr Sofxn,— An 
 I'SKiMo Vii.i.AC.i:.— Till-; N\Tivi:s.— Contrast with tiiic 
 1m'i;c,ians.— Ri-i.ics from ICskimo ('.ravi:s. 
 
 OX the 23d of July, at 6 o'clock in the niornin.i;, an 
 unlooked-for breakincr up and driftiu.t; of the ice- 
 pack occurred. The ice beoau to show si,y:ns of separat- 
 ing-, and within an hour or two a channel lar^e enou,^:h 
 for the ship to sail in was ready for us. vSteani was im- 
 mediately raised and a new start made for our destina- 
 tion. As we proceeded the open spaces became more 
 abundant, and in a couple of hours we were in water 
 free from packs and floes. Icebergs were still numerous, 
 but so large and far apart that we had no difficulty in 
 avoiding them. After getting out of the ice the run 
 from Saunders Island, where our release occurred, to Cape 
 Parrv, which marks the entrance to Whale vSound, was 
 nuide during the day. Cape Parry was reached at about 
 10 o'clock I'. M., after a dav of nuxst charming weather 
 aiul a stiff breeze which caused just enough swell on the 
 water to give the ship a pleasant motion and to impart 
 to us a feeling of freedom after being so long held in the 
 ice-pack. Laud was in sight all the wav up; it was high 
 and barren, and we noticed that umch less snow was 
 present here than further south. .Mtogether, the locality 
 m 
 
///A" \o)\u,j-: (>/-' ■////■: Km:. 
 
 115 
 
 was more attractive than the parts of (ireenland seen 
 before. 
 
 Cape Parry marks the entrance to Whale vSound, 
 which is a wide channel between the coast of Greenland 
 and Xorlhumberland and Herbert Islands, and serxes 
 as one of the entrances into Inglefield Gnlf. The latter 
 is a laroe bod\- of water separated from Uaffin l')a>- or 
 vSmith vSonnd by three large islands, Xorthnmberland, 
 Herbert, and Haklnyt. It was on the northern side of 
 Inglefield Gnlf that Lieutenant Peary desired to land, 
 but, finding Whale vSound tjjien, we skirted along the 
 shores of Cape Parr\-, seeking to gain an entrance to the 
 gnlf. Cape Parry is marked 1)\- a huge and almost ])er- 
 pendicular cliff of red sandst(jne and basalt, crowned, as 
 usual in Greenland, with a perjictual ice caj), and broken 
 here and there by small glaciers and deep fiords. As we 
 coasted along in the full sunlight the cliffs presented 
 a most i)icturesf|ue and beautiful ajjpearance. At times 
 we would see in a \'alley a torrent, formed from the 
 melting snow and ice al)o\'e, come dashing o\er the 
 mountain, forming beautiful cascades in its descent. 
 .After entering the sound the diip was jnit under an easy 
 head of steam and we slowh' cruised along the southern 
 shore. The ])riueipal objrcl was to find an Ivskimo \ il- 
 lagc which was known to be situated thereabouts. We 
 had alreadx' found our charts of these waters so fauU\ 
 and incomplete that, outside of prominent caj)es and 
 landmarks, we jilaced little reliance on them; cousr- 
 quentl\- the navigation of the inland waters was neces- 
 sarih' slow and daimerous. 
 
E 
 
 
 ir- 
 
 ;\\ 
 
 
 I 1 6 
 
 /,V ARCI ic si:.\s. 
 
 After steaiiiiii,^ alons; tlic land I'di- soiiU' inilcs \vc- dis- 
 covLix-d wlial ai)iK'aR'(l to !)(.■ ilnvc- or lour skin tents. 
 Tlif marine ^lass sliouxd natives and do^s and other 
 si,y;ns of life. \Vc .q^proaclied to within ahunt a mil- 
 ot the villa.^c, bnt liesitated to no nearer, as evervwhere 
 were seen lart^e bonlders and masses of rock that had 
 fallen into the water from the ]iei<,dits above. The 
 tents were seen to be located on a eomparati\el\- level 
 ]>!atean, near the entrance to a fiord, whose sir -s were 
 lined with <;laciers. Cap ' 'ike feared to enter the 
 fiord itself, bnl kept the /. .1. ar its month while the 
 villa.^e was visited by tlie ])arty. 'j'he whale-boat bein,-,'- 
 lowered, we soon arrived at hat .^ ^leared to be tlie 
 most available landing-place. This consisted of a rockv 
 slope of nearly 45°, and, as we found later, was the place 
 where the natives hauled up the carcasses of walrus, seal, 
 and other animals killed in the chase. It was bv far the 
 most desirable landing-place we could have .selected. 
 The tents were situated on a bluff at .some distance from 
 the water, and were almost impo.ssible to approach ex- 
 cept from the s])ot at which we had landed. The natives 
 were there ready to meet ns, and seemed delii^lited at (jur 
 arrival. 
 
 The villa.^^e, if sncli it could be called, was compo.sed 
 of only three rude skin tents supported on narwhal-horns, 
 and evidently was onl\- the summer home of the little 
 tribe, as a number of more permanent structures, coin- 
 ix)sed of eartli and stones, were seen near bv. While we 
 found only three tents, these stone huts numbered above 
 a dozen, indicating- that the settlement was much larger 
 
////•; I '()). !(,/■: (>/■■ ■////■: ay/a- 
 
 (luriiii^ [hv wintiT months. The small mimher o!" the 
 n;iti\c'S was jiiohabh' dtie to the absence of main- on their 
 summer huntinj^ trips. The entire population, at the 
 
 r 
 
 Till, N.\i:\i: (AMI' Al WHAI I xilM). 
 
 time of our \isit, nunihered tweKe — tour men, three 
 
 women, and fi\'e c 
 
 .•hildr 
 
 en. 
 
 Th 
 
 ese were the first ol 
 
 \\t- 
 
 so-called ".\rctic hisj^hlanders " ofCa])tain Ross that 
 had seen, and interested us greatly. The ehildnn, as 
 was the ease elsewhere in (ireenland, were prelt\ and 
 iiealth\- l()okin>4-, hut the adults were flltln and an\ tiling 
 hut attraeti\e. I was anunij; the hrst a>hore, and, extend- 
 ins;- m\- hand to the h'.skimo who appeared to ])e the- (.liirf, 
 and olTerin;,:; him a i)ieee of tobacco, was soniiwhal su.r- 
 prised to see that m\' courtes\- was not understood. lie 
 med delisjlited to see us, but had no knowled<'t- of our 
 
 set 
 
 custom of shakint; hands as a mode of salutation. 'I'he 
 lohacco which I <'a\e him he handled in a wa\ which 
 
 ikiii 
 
mgpi 
 
 I \ 
 
 \\ 
 
 iMi 
 
 ii8 
 
 AV .lA'C'/VC .v/T./.s: 
 
 showed to ine al once tliat lie was unfamiliar with the 
 article. One of the sailors, who, at the trnic, happened 
 to be sniokinj^r a J'ipe, was re^i^arded 1)\' them with the 
 g^rcalest wonder, and they were evidently puz/.led to ac- 
 count for the smoke wliich came i'rom the man's mouth. 
 We had found K.skimos who rarely, if ever, saw white 
 men. Their location, of course, would ha\e rendered 
 impo.ssible any visitation of whale-ships, which .seldom 
 <ret so far north as this latitude. I^\'en if they did, they 
 would not be likeh' to venture into such unknown waters 
 unless (ju a mission similar to ours. This first impres- 
 sion was confirmed by a \-isit to their tents and houses. 
 With the exception of a few iron tips to their harpoons, 
 a small piece of .sheet lead, the iron end of a boat- 
 hook, and a sewing-thimble, which a woman produced 
 in (j^reat triumph, nothinji^ was seen wdiich sUowed con- 
 
 KMll. Willi U.'ia 111.. Mil. AM) \\(i MH.N HANI H-L. 
 
 ■!HI >,i .»„ ' .^. 
 
 l\'iK\- I'lN, l\\<i I lllkli^ Al IIAI. SIZK. 
 
 tact with their civili/.ed brethren. It is jiossible that the 
 few natixes in this out-of-the-wa\- i)laee obtained these 
 bits of civilization throu.^h some t)f their more fortunate 
 kinsmen meetin*;- whalers or Polar expeditious during 
 their summer hunts, as they are known to journey, on 
 
1 1 IE I ■() ):!(,/■: ()/■■ 1 1 IE KiiE. 
 
 119 
 
 such trips, far from their winter (|uarters. Tlicy niaiii- 
 fested unusual (lc'li<;lit whcMi shown nccdks, kni\es, etc., 
 and for a few of these articles we were enabled to j^et all 
 the curiosities desired. A knife bou<;ht a reiudeer-skiu, 
 and for a needle we received an ivory walrus-tusk. A 
 curious piece of steel used in skinninj^ .seals, brou,nht from 
 Godluun, was e\chan(;ed for two large narwhal-horns. 
 
 Many and varied were the curios gotten by our i)art\-, 
 and I am glad to sa\- that, although the rate of exchange 
 was so much in our favor, we left them with a su])ply of 
 material that was of far more .ser\ice to them than the 
 things they jiarted with. A skin hou.se, with its interior 
 fittings complete, and a large sledge most ingeniously 
 made of drit"twoo(l, bone, and ivory, were obtained in ex- 
 change for a hatchet, a saw, and two fdes. Two or three 
 boards and an empty flour-barrel pleased them beyond 
 description, as it provided them with enough wood lo 
 make their harpoons, paddles, and sledges without the 
 months of labor which had evidenth' been expended in 
 l)inding together the numerous fragments of wood and 
 bone of which their sledges and other imi)lemeuts were 
 constructed. 
 
 During our stay we had an excellent opporlunitN' of 
 obserxing their mode of life. Their food consisted of the 
 flesh and blul)ber of the walrus, narwhal, and seal, and 
 we saw 1> iug in the neighborhood of their tents, on the 
 bare ground, the partially-consumed carcasses of several 
 of these animals, the walrus ])redoniinating. The flesh 
 was neither frozen nor decomposed, and ai)peared to have 
 been recently obtained. At irregidar intervals, according 
 
 hi! 
 
T2() 
 
 /.\' AKCI IC Shl.lS. 
 
 as llicir liun^ir iiiowd iIriii, \\\c\ would ciU lioiii a car- 
 cass, witli an old knik', a I01114 slrip ot llusli or hliibbL-r 
 so lar^c- that it would baix-K <;() into llicir nioullis. Tlii-N 
 strip was lu-ld iu thf tuctli, while-, with a sawinj; nio\ c- 
 
 
 l.-KIM'> KMVliS. 
 
 ment, a morsel was cut off so close to the mouth that 
 their noses appeared to be in imminent jieril. Thus, 
 without cookin.Li^ or other jireparation, they ate the dirty 
 uiass of fat and flesh, ai)parently with oreat relish. We 
 saw no cooked food of any description, nor any sii^n of 
 the use of ve,netable food. vSo far as wc could determine, 
 they are entirely carnivorous, the fat and oil of the blub- 
 ber takint>; the place of the ve<j;^etable food demanded by 
 our systems. The teeth of the Eskimos, as far as we ob- 
 served, showed no evidence of decay, and, instead of 
 losing them by disease, they are generally retained until 
 
iiiii lo). !(,/■: (>/■ I III: Kill: 
 
 121 
 
 (linlli, ;is was shown by ihf skulls whic-li wiir Ijvoii.s^lit 
 bark. As a nilr, i1k\ wcti' \cr\- hmkIi woiii ,i\va\. il 
 bciii<4 quiU' coiiiuujii U> sir the- til 're cnnvii ol llir lnolli 
 ;^()iiL' and the (kulinc cxposfd, sniioniukd by a naruiw 
 rim ol t-iianic'l. This wcarini; away is probabh ilut- lo 
 the chc'win*; of the t()ii<;h animal tissues on whii'h llic 
 nali\LS subsist, tlu' ri'sichu' of which, after ha\iu^ bun 
 (U-prix-fd of all nulriuK'nt, is spit out. TIk- custom llu\- 
 haw of clKwir.L; the <;armcnts in order to make ihem 
 more ]>liable also aids in acconnlin;^ Ibr this condition. 
 
 The interior of the tenls was furnished only with a 
 heaji of skins and rubbish on wdiich the occu])ants sle]>t. 
 In one (jf them a lamp was 
 found burning-. Il was 
 made of a sli;^htly hollowed 
 slab of soapstone or sonie- 
 thin<4 similar, and was filled 
 with fat squeezed from bhd)- 
 
 bcr. In it was a wick made of twisted moss; this, though 
 burnin.^ with a rather dull an<l sickly llame, seeme<l lo 
 be the onl\- means they had of t;i'ttin,^ heat and li.^lit. 
 The\- obtained their fire, apparently, by the use of Hint, 
 and tinder made from dried moss. The surronndin.Ljs u\ 
 the \illa,!^e were filthy in the extreme. Hones of animals 
 and birds and lialf-dccomposed fra,u^mcnts of rminial rei- 
 nse ku' around in every direction. Two leashes of Ivs- 
 kinio doi,^s, securely tied near the tents, re<;arded the 
 stran^Ljers with distrust. 
 
 'iMie natives themsehes were as friendl\- as possible, 
 exincinjj;- their pleasure at seein_i;- ns in {gestures and cries 
 
 1 A.NU' MAUI. Ul .-M'AI'-lnM 
 
 'I i 
 
1 22 
 
 /.\' iKiTic si:, is 
 
 aiiil fi)ll()\vinj4 us c'\c'r\ wlinv. 'Vhr cliildrcii, liowever 
 appiMU'd iVij^liti'iud, ami i>iu- or two criid pilcoitsly if wc 
 ap])r();u'lu(l tluMii. One of llir nun sieiiud to ho 
 (U'liuiikd or idiotic. lie tittcnd lioarsi- triittural cries, 
 and would walk around nK'nd)(.'rs of thi.' part\ witli a 
 curious step, occasionally shouting with sceniiuj^ <j[ratifica- 
 tiou. Wc noticed that he did not acc()tu[)any the other 
 men, hut was left with tlie woiueu and children. It was 
 of course inipossihle to understand thi'Ui except hy mo- 
 tions, hut these were readil\- interpreted. The men were 
 well formed and sli'>htl\- below the medium heisjht. 
 
 AN AKil u; r.KIl.K. 
 
 I! 
 
 I 
 
 Their coniple.xions were swarthy, and one or two had 
 small beards or mous* \ches. The women were short and 
 squatt\', with laces broad and i^ood-natured looking in 
 
Il' 
 
 ////■: i('). !(,/■: ('/■ Tin: kiii:. 
 
 123 
 
 spitr of the small and slatitiiii^- c\fs and widt- nioiitlis. 
 'riic coslunu- worn was tlu- same in both stwcs, and coii- 
 'I'd of a skill jarkc'l and hmc-lKs. SniiK' of llic 
 ..oiiKMi had (lonbK' jacki'ls, iIk- iiiiur l)(.'inj^f niadt' of hird- 
 •skitis and tlu- otitiT of seal. In this case \\\v fralluT 
 si(U' was worn lu-xt thf^kin, tht- fur hfin^on tlu' oiilsidc. 
 All of thr [R-oplr were in(kscril)al)l\ liltli\-, and had 
 c\id(.'ntl\' lU'wr had a hath in their lives. Tlu' odors 
 ahoiil their teiil^ were nanseatiiit;, and their bodies 
 seemed to !j^i\'e off the rank snudl of seal oil. 
 
 'iMie plateau on which tlie\- li\-ed was about a (juarler 
 
 of a mile broad and stretched back to the hij^li elills of 
 
 the mainland. It was covered with llowers and i^ras.ses, 
 
 m1 moss j;rew in abundance. .Mto^ether, they had 
 
 ■cted a choice spot for their cam]), which o\erlook'.(l 
 |j<jth the fiord and the waters (jf Whale Sound, and >eemed 
 to be perfectly contented with their lot. 
 
 I was greatly interested in obser\inL; the peculiar 
 habits and mode of life of these most iiorlhe; n I"",>kiinos, 
 and in contrastiiiii^ them with those (jf the nati\es ot' 
 Terra del Fue<4(). The iMicL^iaiis are the saxa^e inhabit- 
 ants of the island which is situated at the extreme end 
 of vSonth .\nierica, bein^' se])arated from it by the Strait 
 of Ma<iellan. The interior of the countr\ has iie\er been 
 e.xplored, and t]ie<jnly knowledge we liaxiof an\ inhabit- 
 ants is of those li\iu;^ on the shores borderiuL; the strait. 
 From this circumstance they are sometimes spoken of 
 a.s "the dwellers of the straits." 
 
 Three year> a_i;o, wdiile x'oyaiL^in;.^- from Philadelphia 
 to San Francisco, I passed ihrou.nh the .Strait of Ma<;el- 
 
124 
 
 /\' .lh'(77C s/:.is. 
 
 laii, and IkuI an excclk'iil opporltuiity of obscrviii;^ tlie 
 iialiws. Ti;c ])as'-a<,a' llironi^li llic stniils was a tc-dious 
 and (lifricull one, consnniinj; nearly a week's lime. This 
 was oecasioned by the peenliar character of the cnrrenls 
 and tide, wiiieli often necessitated (Mir K'in^ at anchor for 
 nian\' honrs at a time. It was during- tliese periods that 
 tile natives came to llie ship and we were enabled to 
 visit the shore. The b'skimos, altlioni^h li\inj; in a far 
 more desolate and ri'^^orons rej4;ion than the dwellers of 
 the straits, and haNini; less opportiinitx' for contact with 
 ci\ili/.ed man, \et exhibit j^reater i'ltellij^ence and abil- 
 it\- in ])ro\idin<; for their wants than do the I'iie<>;ians. 
 \Vh\- this should be it is impossible even to conjecture. 
 .\11 tra\ellers a^ree in placin.L; the Fne<^ians the lowest 
 in the scale of humanity. Inhabitin.^-, as they do, a land 
 in which rain, sleet, and snow are of ccmstant occurrence, 
 and a da\- of continuous sunshine almost unknown, they 
 are \et too i.^norant to clothe tliemselves, notwithstand- 
 ing; an a.bundauce of fur-bearinjj^ animals. The\- scarcely 
 make an\- attvmpt at protectin.u^ themselves from a cli- 
 mate that is more tr\in,i^ to the health of hunuuiitv than 
 an\- encountered beyond the .\rctic Circle. 
 
 The lMie<>ians that I have seen were absolutely with- 
 out astonishment at an\tliin,n- that was shown them, and 
 had not the slightest conception of the use, eilec., or 
 advantage of fire-arms. 
 
 The Ivskimos, on the contrar\', show considerable 
 skill and intellineiice in the construction of their stone 
 huts, weapons, kajaks, skdi^es, etc., and the tamini^' and 
 control of their do,L;s are reinarkabU'. Thev also ap- 
 
y///-; /■<))'. /r;/; oi- iiii: kiii:. 
 
 125 
 
 ]iear(.(l to express ur.icli ^loiiisliiiK'nt and woiuUr at tlic 
 sij^lit of Caucasians, and were exidciUK' awaie df llic 
 su|)cri<)rity of tlie white man. They exhibited es]ieci;;l 
 deli.^ht when slujwn our lire-arms, man\' of w liieh wrre 
 ol such a recent and improxed mechanism as to lia\c 
 rendered it impossil>le for them to haw e\er seen the 
 like l)ef()re, yet tlie uses and ad\anta^es of which they 
 readily understood and appreciated. 
 
 The Ivskimos were also excellent mimics both of 
 sound and <:;esture, and would repeat with accurac\- the 
 words and actions of the nieml)ers of our part\ . ( )u one 
 occasion Dr. Huj^hes was wanted, and the nati\es, about 
 a do/.en in number, hearini^ his name, be^au mimieino 
 and callin,i;, " Hn«,dies! Hughes! Hui;he.s!" This j.ro- 
 voked a lan^^h, in which they likewise joined, as if also 
 enjoyin,i; the joke. Other points of contrast l)etween the 
 Eskimos and I'ucj^ians suj^i^ested themselves, but these 
 were the most strikin,!;;-. 
 
 A lar<;e number of stone-piles in the \icinity of the 
 settlement havin<;- attracted our attention, we were in- 
 formed, by si<4us, of course, tliat lliey contained stores of 
 meat and blubl)er intended for winter use ; (>thers which 
 we saw contained the bodi'-s of dei)arted b'skinios buritd 
 as the\- had died, in full costume. 
 
 The i^round is continnalh' fro/en from a few inches 
 below the surface to the depth of man\- feit ; lur.ec the 
 necessity for this mode of burial. The number of l; raws 
 ol)ser\-ed was mucli larj^er than that of the inhabitants 
 of the ]>lace. 
 
 Pieing desirous of procuring; some skulls and bones to 
 
 
 
 ffl 1 
 
 n ^ 
 
 ffif 
 
 
 'wi 
 
 
 ■fRiS 
 
 
 11 
 
 I ' ii 
 
i->6 
 
 /.\' .lA'C/VC S/-:.!S. 
 
 take lioiiR' for scienlific ])urposes, we wandered leisurely 
 about these stone-piles, liavinj^ first niana.i^ed to lia\e the 
 attention of ihe natives diverted to another direetion by 
 some of our Uieii. Many of the ])0(lies were searcely 
 hidden, owinij;' to the stones havinj:^'- rolled away, and it 
 looked as thon.i,di little attention had been paid to these 
 <;raves since first the\ were made. 
 
 Our search was finallv rewarded 1)\- the discovery of a 
 bo(l\- in a partially mummified condition, which had e\i- 
 dently been buried a lon<4- time. It was enveloped in a 
 bear-skin ,ifarment, jiarts of which still adhered to the 
 bones. Hastil\' remo\in,i;- the l)od\- from its tomb, we 
 left it \ynvj; on the j^n'ound beside the i)ile of stones, for 
 we feared to excite the animosity of the Eskimos b\- thus 
 despoilint,^ the .graves of their ancestors. We found, 
 afterward, that there was not tlie slightest necessity for 
 our haviii!:; had an\- uneasiness on that score, for they 
 themselves cheerfull\- helped us to discover and carry to 
 the sliij) skulls and other fraj^inents of niortalit\'. Hav- 
 iii}^ successfull\- avoided their observation, the body was 
 (piickl)' wrapi)ed in an old coat and, thus enveloped, cou- 
 \-e\e(l on board the \'essel. Two small models of har- 
 poons and a little sledge were fi)und in the tomb, and 
 it was evident, not less from the care with which the 
 l)od\- had been buried than from the size of the bones, 
 thai the deceased was a man, and had been, in his time, 
 a person of some importance. 
 
CHAPTKR IX 
 
 IIiCRnHUT Island.— l'"')XTKArs. -A (iIu;i;n Spot amon 
 
 c, Till-: 
 
 (ir.ACII'.US. — MCCOK.MICK HaV. ClKiDSINC 
 
 I'KAUY's Camp. -Hni.niNc. tiiic Ilm si: 
 
 Si'OT I'OK 
 A L'l.lMli To TIIK 
 
 IcK Cap 
 
 o 
 
 UR invcstifratioiis fini.slicil, we returned to tlie ship, 
 which was then lieadcd u]) Wliale vSound. Iiefore 
 Herbert Island was jxassed il was evident that we could 
 not hope to reach In<,defield Crulf by that channel. The 
 ice had never started from the .i;ulf, and stretched in one 
 vast, unbroken sheet as far as the ey^ ccjuld reach. We 
 therefore altered our course and steered alon.i; the vih^e 
 of the ice to Herbert Island, and, skirtinjj;^ its shores, en- 
 tered the channel between Herbert and Xorthnniberland 
 Islands to reach Murchinson vSound, which also coninin- 
 nicates with Injj^lefield (inlf. Several slo])s were made 
 to examine the shores of Herbert Island, which seemed 
 to be more green and attracti\e than the rest of the land. 
 Quite a number of stone huts and "caches" or slone- 
 ]iiles containing blubber, stored by the Ivskimos, were 
 seen, but none of the nati\-es themseKis. There nnist 
 be a number here during the winter, as the (luanlity 
 
 of blubber, huts, sledues, etc. found w 
 
 IS comi)arali\ely 
 
 arue. 
 
 In exploring the land in the \ ieinily we ran across 
 
11 
 
 128 
 
 /N .lA'Cf/C SJC.IS. 
 
 quite a nniiihcr of fox-traps; lliesc were tlie first we had 
 seen, and interested ns _<rreatly. The\' were small rec- 
 tan.^nlar l)o\es l)nilt of stones, liavin,^- only a single 
 entranee. Over this openin-,'- is suspended or balaneed 
 
 lii 
 
 1,* ^ 
 
 l-.>KlMi) .■^lllM, UWlJ.l.INCS. 
 
 ])\ means of a leatlier thoni;, a slab of stone; to the other 
 enil of the thon^ the bait is fastened, and it is so arran,L;ed 
 that a slight ])nll \\\>n\\ it will eause the slab to fall, thus 
 elTeetualK elo^ini; the entranee. The box or ea\e is so 
 narrow that tlit- fox eannot turn around or burrow out of 
 its stouf prison. 'IMiey all showed si^ns of ha\in,L; lieen 
 reeeiitK looked ai'ter and set, wliieh was rci^arded as 
 
'/•///•; I ()):!(,/■: of '////-: kiie. 
 
 129 
 
 another evidence tliat the natives had departed only 
 recently. 
 
 In the vicinity of the hnts vci^etation floin-ishcd. 
 This was probably dne to the sheltered location and 
 j^rcat (jnantity of refnse animal matter l>injL; uvcrswhcrc 
 aronnd. \'ej;etation, alt]ion.y;h jreneralh- sparse in (irecn- 
 land, occasionally flonrishes with xi.i^or in a few well- 
 sheltered and watered spots. Some j^rasses of the 
 varieties occurring in temperate climes are occasionally 
 .seen <j;^rowin.^^ as lii«:;h and ln.\nriantl\ as at home, and 
 flowers of _^rcat delicacy both of form and color are fonnd 
 in profusion in some places. Yellow poppies and dande- 
 lions are also met with in considerable nnml)ers; even 
 the bntterfly was there, se\eral \arieties beino captured. 
 Flies which resembled very closely the connnon house- 
 fly were also seen, but were neither so tormcntin<( nor so 
 nnmerons as those fonnd in cixilized commnnities. 
 They have not the opportunity to dexote such a lar<;e 
 amount of their attention to hunianit\- as do those we 
 have at home. The mosquitoes, on the contrary-, are 
 quite numerous in (ireenland, and were a constant source 
 ofanno\ance and discomfort. ( )ur heaxN clothinsf pro- 
 tected our bodies, but the fa(X-s of nianx of us were con- 
 siderably disfignred and nndered <|uite painful by their 
 attacks. 
 
 The scenery was grand and iin]>ressi\e. Glaciers were 
 to be seen at every turn, and the breaking and falling 
 into the sea of huge icebergs was fre(iuentl\- witnessed. 
 The noise and \ibration caused b\- this breaking ice wire 
 almost theouK sounds to be heard in these lonely waters, 
 
130 
 
 /A' .lA'CY/C s/:.is. 
 
 and llic ccliocs atul ifvcibcralions aniotij;' tlie solitude of 
 inountains and <forL;vs were ]irodnctive of a feelin:^ of 
 awe wliicli was perhaps inereased l)y an a])precialion 
 of tlie dreariness of t)nr situation and the knowledge of 
 our distance from an\' ei\iiix,e(l port or assistance. The 
 slijj^htest accident nii<fht have delayed our vessel and 
 thereby rendered a return home, for that season at 
 least, impossible, and subjected us to the often told ex- 
 perience of misery and hardships in this far-away and 
 desolate res^ion. 
 
 A few weeks only remained of the summer in wh'ch 
 to navij^ate these uncertain and danjj^erons seas, and then 
 it would be necessary U) turn otu' prow southward. 
 
 All the followin<r day was sjient by the party sent out 
 from the ship in a boat in scarchin.t;; for a suitable spot 
 on which to build Peary's winter quarters. They found 
 McCorniick Bay to be an arm running- off from Murchin- 
 son Sound in a jj^eneral north-easterly direction. Its 
 U])]K'r part wassecureh locked in ice, and a <;reat _i;;lacier 
 was visible runnin<^ down at the head. The north-west 
 shore, which was the one first investigated, was reached 
 only after considerable difiicult)', on account of the field 
 of ice which stretched out from its sides far into the bay. 
 It was bleak and inhosj)itable, and no suitable landiti}^- 
 ])lace could be found. The north-east shore, on the 
 other hand, aijjx'ared in e\'er\' wa\- suitable for a camj). 
 A good beach running up to a little bluff about twent\' 
 feet high was found, which was continued by a gentle 
 but steadily increasing incline as the ground rose to the 
 rampart of cliffs that marked theedgeof the great inland 
 
 
 i>V 
 
K 
 K 
 
 ►B 
 K 
 > 
 X 
 i< 
 
 '/ 
 
 c 
 
 X 
 
 > 
 
 > 
 
 V. 
 
 V. 
 
 V. 
 
 V. 
 
 ■J. 
 
 V. 
 
'■t 
 
 
IB 
 
 '////•; J -(n: !(;/■: (^r ////■: kiir. 
 
 131 
 
 plateau, 'riic surlact' from llic- Uracil hack to the clitTs 
 was c(i\crc(l with a luxuriant i^rowth of tlowi-is. Yellow 
 poppies nodded like daisies in tlie l)ri<;ht sunli,nht, pr.r- 
 ple heaths and other (lowers ahounded, and once in a 
 while a hnttertly would la/.ily lloat alou,t; in the l)ahn\' 
 air. It was very diflicult to realize that we were less 
 than seven hundred and fifty miles from the Pole, and 
 within a short distance of the spot where the Kane expe- 
 dition had spent two miserable winters frozen in the 
 ice. 
 
 A ]iretty flower-covered knoll, risinjj;- about twentv 
 feet above high tide and some fifty feet back fror.i the 
 beach, was the site chosen for the camp, and the selec- 
 tion submitted to Lieutenant Peary for his decision. 
 The lieutenant would ha\e preferred a location on the 
 north-west shore, where better protection would ha\e 
 been afforded from severe winds, but he ac(|uiesced in the 
 juds^nient of his comrades, and the site of his future 
 quarters was formally settled. Now it was that the un- 
 fortunate accident which had befallen him was UK^st 
 severely felt, for he could not even see, except by the 
 feeble aid of a mirror held o\-er the skyli<;ht, the shores 
 on which he was to make his home. 
 
 The next four da\s were coisnuKd in hard and diffi- 
 cult labor. We were unable to anchor on account of 
 the danger from drifting floes, and were compelled to 
 steam slowdy up and down the shore opjKJsite the camp 
 while the stores of the North (ireenland part\- and 
 the material for Pear\\s house were landed by snial! 
 boats. This having been accomplished, a foundation 
 
1^2 
 
 /.V . I A'( •■/■/(• S/C.IS. 
 
 [•} \ 
 
 was pirparid in [he hard, frozfU soil, the rraiiu- st'l up, 
 and llic- hiiildiuL; (-■ivfli.'d. 
 
 The siluali(jn of tlic- liousc appeared to e\'er\' one to 
 be as favorable as could have been selected. A little 
 stream of water ran near at hand, while numerous rein- 
 deer-tracks were fcjund and se\eral deer observed at a 
 distance. Two ])airs oi' lart^e antlers were brought on 
 board, haviii);' been found amoniL^ the rocks, as well as 
 the skeleton of a reindeer which was obtained at the 
 base of a hij^h cliiT: as man\' of the bones were broken, 
 it was thou,!:iht (juite probable that the animal had met 
 its death 1)\- fallin^i; from the rocky heijjjhts above. The 
 abundant sij^n.^ of <4ame in the nei<4hborhood encour- 
 aj^ed the hoi)e of it serving in the future as a source of 
 supi)ly of fresh meat should necessity require. No at- 
 tein])t was made durin^,^ our sta\- to capture an\- of these 
 animals, because it was the wish of Lieutenant Peary 
 that they should not be disturbed, as he thought it best 
 to reserve them tor possible emergencies later on. The 
 waters abounded in seal and walrus, (juite a number be- 
 ing seen during our sta\'. 
 
 The camp, not >et named, was situated on the north- 
 east side of McCormick l>ay. This ba\- is about ten 
 miles long and fi\e miles wide, and forms a well-shel- 
 tered and desirable harbor. Its latitude is 77''" 43', but 
 the charts are so defective that it is almost inii)ossible to 
 indicate the exact position of the camp without elaborate 
 surveys. Its jireseut location is to be found by crossing 
 Whale Sound, ])assing between Herbert and North um- 
 berland Islands, thvnce across Murchinson Sound to 
 
I\ 
 
 nil'. i()):i(,f: or nn: kih-: 
 
 '.>3 
 
 McCorinick I>ay, on ilu' slioro dl which aw KiciiU'iiaut 
 iVarv's (luarltTS. 'IMu- >liikiii<4 iiil I'olor of ihc iiioiiii- 
 taiu-si(U', a iiiik- to the (.'aslward, is a ])roiiiim'iil hmd- 
 inark should an allcinpl be made to Inid this sjjot ai^ain. 
 
 l,nill:N.\M rK\KV> l AMI'. M(inK\Il(K i;\v. 
 
 The housf hc'ini:;- small, oiir inii^ht easily fail to nhserve 
 it while looking from theba\, but the red mounlaiu->ide 
 forms a sufficieiith- conspicuous object to attract alien 
 tion. The water in the bay was (juite deep, ihirleen 
 fathoms bein,!;- found w'"hin a ([uarter of a mile of the 
 shore — a circumstance that ^reath' facilitated ihe unji lad- 
 ing of the \essel. We found considerable ice ])re^ent, 
 but, the south side beiuiL^' comparati\'eI\' clear, we weie 
 enabled to stay without dans^er until the work on >liorc 
 
134 
 
 /.\- . IRil/C S/'..IS. 
 
 was iK-aiK liiii^lud and LiiuUiiant l'(.ai\ and his com- 
 panions wc'if rstahli^Iifd in (.'oniloi lahk' (|nartris. 
 
 ( )n Snnda\-, jnl\ jC)lli, I wml a^lioiL- laiiv in llK(la\' 
 to cNplori.' llic lii.i^h lalik'-laml silnalcd hat'k of llu' ucwK- 
 estal)li>lu'd canip. 'IMiis land losi' akrnpllx iVoni llic 
 Ifwl of ilic water to a lici.Ljlit of sonic two tlionsand fed. 
 I'loni the shi]) it appcarcil to l)c an ininicnsc phiin anions^' 
 the ch)iids, and was the only land ol snch an cle\-alion 
 tliat we had seen free from snow and ici'. I endeaxoied 
 to indnci' sonic of oiir party to accompany me in its as- 
 cent, hnt as none desired to niidcrlake the clinil), I was 
 forced to make it alone. The ri>e was <^radua] from the 
 water's edi^e f(jr the distance of abont a mile, when it he- 
 <jaii to i^et more difficult and daiiiL^eroiis. Loose earth and 
 rock coxeix'd the side of the moniitain, and miicli of the 
 wa\ was iiecessariK' traversed on my hands and knees. 
 The stones and fraj^nients loosened by climbing- rolled 
 beliind until they reached the bottom of the j^ort^es and 
 chasms liundreds of feet below. 'Die stillness and quiet 
 of the si-eiie wire intense, and the awesome feelin.i; pro- 
 duced as one neared the tf)p, after three hours of hard 
 and tryiii;;' work, was absolutely indescribable. The 
 view from tliis point was simply ma,y;iiificent. I was 
 standing; on the edjji'e of what a])peared to be a limitless 
 ])lain. b'or a distance of two or three miles the ground 
 was bare, free troni snow and ice, and composed of small 
 pebbles and stones with hardh' an\- earth inters])ersed. 
 ]>evt)iid this, and as far as the eye could reach, was a 
 coveriui^ of snow and ice which is known as the "ice 
 caj)," and supposed to co\er the greater part of Cireen- 
 
 V 
 
////■; {■(>)■. K,/: ()/■■ I III: ki ri: 
 
 .i."* 
 
 l.iiid. Xo spurs of uioiinlniiis or i-k'valioiis of land wur 
 iiolic'(.-al)lf: for tlic iiiaiu' iiiik'S I t-ould sec- tlir xii'W pri'- 
 
 sfiilrd oiK' ''rral mihroktii V'\v\ of icf and snow, 
 
 It \, 
 
 A\\\ iIk' land honk'rin'j; tin.' sea lliat shows tht- W''*.' 
 
 lalion and 
 
 Ihi 
 
 mimals lliat haw ahfad\' 
 
 laiion and iioin.,, ur' animals inai iiaw airfaus' Iictu 
 (k'scrihrd : hiyond ninst hi- one i^rtat solitiuk'. I rr- 
 niaint-d an honr on this \asl plain, f,ir iVoni ihc ship and 
 ni\ coni]ianions, and liad ntAt-r txjR-rii lu'cil a trrlin'^- 
 of niort- utt(.'r loneliness and nndcfinahlr kar than diirin.ij^ 
 this solitary wandering. Il was with considrrahk- rtlit-f 
 that I arrived once more aboard shi]), thoron^liK' tired 
 and read\' for bed, hnt not, howexer, without first iiiier- 
 estin.L;- all the part\' so mueh with an acH-ount of ni\' trip 
 as to cause man\ of ihem to e.\|>ress their intention of 
 accompan\-in<4- me on another visit to '" m\' plateau." 
 
 On the ensuing- day t!ie construction of Lieutenant 
 Peary's house was .^oins; on rapidl\', and as his men, with 
 part of the ship's crew, were ample for the work, the 
 services of the Academy part\- were not neede(l. 
 
 \\\ ten o'clock the mountain expedition was read\- to 
 start, and with a ,i;;ood suppl\- of lood and instrnmeiils 
 the ascent was ])ei;iin. The day was a most a.^reeable 
 one, the cloudless sk\- and i^euial sunshine making the 
 temperature seem much hii^jher than was indicated b\- the 
 'hennometer. A li.i^ht bri'eze just ruffk-d the waters of 
 the ba\- and caused a little surf to beat upon the beach. 
 Ir. KeiieaK-, Dr. llnrk, and nuself kept to^elker dtiriu!.:; 
 the trip, while Drs. .Sharp and Ilunhes, Mr. Mendel, and 
 Professor Ileilprin nir.de the ascent fnjni another point. 
 \Valkin*( .-''Mno- the shores of the bay, we arri\ed at a 
 
I/> 
 
 /A' .IA\//C S/C.IS 
 
 siiiall ravine wIktl- a siiow-lVd stivaiii came dasiiin^ down 
 the iiioiiiilaiii. I ). this ravine wc- slowly wendid onr 
 course, avuidinsj;, as well as we could, the anj^ular boul- 
 ders with which its sides were strewn. As we advanced 
 a careful watch was kept for a sl()pin<f bank by whicli we 
 nii^dit l)e enabled to escape from the little canyon the 
 stream had carved for itself, and which with every foot 
 became narrower and more precipitous. A jj^rassy slope 
 at len<^lh was reached, and with occasional ])auses we 
 mana}.,a-(l to climb without difficult)- to a hei,y;ht of about 
 one thousand feel. The <,fround up to tliis point was 
 covered with vej^etation of the sparse character .seen in 
 (ireenland. Above, all w;is .shaly rock wliich seemed to 
 rise almost perpendicularly. Carefully jiickinj.^ our wa\-, 
 now on a ridi^e of basalt, now on shaly, slippery rock, we 
 scrambled often on all-fours. The final twenty feet or so 
 of the ascent was most difficult, beinj^- made over an out- 
 cro]<piu<; of slate which cracked and splintered whenever 
 touched. It was impossible to .secure a safe foothold, 
 and every time one slipped it seemed as if uolhiuiL; but a 
 m.racle would prevent a fall to the de])ths below. Above 
 the shale was a 'hick la\er of , gravel, crossing; whic' our 
 arms were oxer the ed<;e of the table-land, and the climb 
 was liuished. 
 
 ( )ui' can haniiy describe the jieculiar siji^hl which nut 
 the I've as oiir heads rose al)ove the sm laci- < f the plain. 
 I'or over two hours we had been scrambiim; up the mcky 
 clilVs without enccuuterint; a siuj^le ledije that was lew! 
 or secure, \ et in an instant we were in full view iA' an 
 enormous plain, almost perfectly hori/outal, .nul without 
 
i )•» 
 
 '////■: ro )'.!(,/■: or ////■: a///;. 
 
 'vV 
 
 a siii^If rock or stoiif to break ils iiionoloiiy. Tlif phico 
 at wliich \vc rfaclicd tlic top was frt-c from snow or ice, 
 and, indeed, tliis was the reason it had l)een selected. 
 .\])ont a mile .hack was the toot ot' tlie threat ice cap, 
 wdiich extended, a da/./.linjj^ expanse of wliite snow, until 
 its distant l)order became merged with the sk\-. 
 
 The soil was made up of ,i;ravel and small pebbles, 
 while here and tliere our l)t)tanist found little ])lants, 
 amont^ others the poi)p>' and b\UterjU]>. Some of the 
 tltjwers of the J^oppN', tliouj^li e\identl\- of tlie same .s])ecies 
 as the \ellow ones of tile lower le\els, were here pure 
 white in color. The buttercup appeared to be of the 
 same species as our own, hut was onl\ an inch or two in 
 hei.v;ht. Its lea\es and flowers, and e\en the bulb, were 
 the same as our common crow's-foo', only re])roduce(l in 
 miniature. The pe])bles were of man\ kinds, and had 
 exideutly l)een swept \)y glacier action from rocks mau\- 
 miles awa\-. Amon^them were (puutz. jasper, and ;!.L;ate, 
 two ver\' prett\' moss-ayates also beinj^ fouml. 
 
 'I'he view from the ed^i- of the clilT, lookini^ out to tl.i.- 
 sea, was simiily ma,nnificent. DirectK beneath l.iy the 
 blue waters of the bay, with our ship, lookin,t; like a to\ , 
 near the shore; l'ear\"s camp wa'^ onl\ a little >])eck on 
 the landsca])e, and while we could haidh see the small 
 boats as the\' passed from the Mssel to tin- --bore, \et 
 when ei'^ht bells struck on the ship we heard the xMind 
 with flint distinctness. Iniuiediairh opposite' the ba\- 
 la\- Herbert Island with its countless j^laciirs; just be- 
 \ond was Xortlnunberland I>lan<l, ami still furtlu-i mit 
 to sea was the ru-'i-ed outline of Ilakluxt Island, tlu- far- 
 
i;v^ 
 
 /A' .lA'l/VC S/:. IS. 
 
 f 
 
 tliL'Sl point iKiilli rcMcluil hy liarUn in liis tanious vDva^t.' 
 of 161''). The npix-r n. aclKs of McConuick iSav wrif lilkd 
 with ice, as was also luj;' field (Inlf. .\\va\- lo llie soiilh 
 
 
 slretclied the hold front of Cape rair\-, and hexduil it the 
 open water of r.ailin I'.av . I'roin Cape Aeland to Cap.e 
 I'arr\- the view wa^ >nperi), the hhie water heinj^' dotted 
 with ieeherijs of e\er\ si/e, whieii sjjeanied in the snn- 
 
'////■; li) ).!(,/■: <)/■ ////■: a///;. 
 
 139 
 
 ]\'^h{ iikf iIk- sails of >!iii)s. 'riic sikiicc which piLX aikd 
 impressed the olliers as il had uw on ihi- piXAious ascent, 
 for no bird or animal appeared lohreak tlie niter stillness 
 of the scene. 
 
 We seated ourselves on the flat ^ronnd and ri'mained 
 some time admirinj^f the \ iew. al'ter which we tnrned in- 
 land toward the ice cap. iSefore reaehini^ it the i^ronnd 
 l)ecame moist and sprini^A from the nnnierons streams 
 fed by nieltin,!,'^ ice, bnt once npon the snow, all difficnltx' 
 in walkinj; ceased. We found it hard and compact, and 
 the ])rospects of easy travelling; in the s])rin<.; for I.ienten- 
 anl Pear\' seemed j^ood should he succeed in reaching the 
 ice cap with his stores of prox isions. 'i'he difiicult\' we 
 had found in clind)in_n the mountain was probably much 
 .greater than what he will be likeh' to encounter in the 
 earh sprinjj^, wdien the >.,dacier I'mnts, in all ])rol)al)ilit\-. 
 
 w 
 
 ill extend far out to se 
 
 m 
 
 I, and ]iro\i(le a more easy 
 cans (jf ascent than can be obtained b\- scalinj; the 
 clilTs. 
 
 The ice caj) appeared to continue down to two larL,^' 
 glaciers which reaihed to the beach. l-'roni the heail of 
 these jjjlaciers it was uid)rokcn, ai 1 extended inland with 
 a .yradlial and uniform slope Tioiissor lleil])rin, who 
 advanced on its surface farther than did tin- otlK'rs, 
 
 reached an altitude of 22011 feet. At the cd.ijc 
 
 ol the 
 
 .diir tl 
 
 le liei,i,dit was nj^o fret. 
 
 .\ short sojourn on thi' ice satisfud our i-uriosily. and 
 we returned by the same route lakiu in ,u<>iiii; up. '1 he 
 
 to such \ ioleut ex- 
 
 descent, for mn^clis unused lor wn' 
 
 ertions. was e\en more painful than had bicu the asc(. nt. 
 
140 
 
 AV .lA'cy/f s/:.is. 
 
 I t ■ I 
 
 The only si.yns of animal life which any ol' our party 
 found on llu'sc desolale hcij^dits were a reindeer-track and 
 a lew tufts of fox-hair. The sparse Nej^etation can be 
 hut little attractive to either bird or beast, and durin^i^ the 
 f^reater part of the year the entire plateau must be cov- 
 ered with snow and ice. 
 
 A few hours' rest on board the ship ]ireparcd us for 
 further aihentnre. (Vreat flock.s of o;nilli_'mots and little 
 auks were fl\in!,f constantly overhead, and the tempta- 
 tion to shoot at them was almost irresistible. Lieutenant 
 l'ear\-, however, did not wish us t(} fire in the \icinity 
 of the camj), lest the f^anie shonld be frij^htened off; but 
 in one of the ship's boats we easily reached a spot, some 
 distance awa\-, where there was no danger of the shoot- 
 ing doiii!:;- any mischief, and where jj;reat flocks of birds 
 were constantly passin<;-. ( )ur luck was only fairly j^'ood, 
 thou.ii;h occasionally three or four birds would fall at a 
 single shot. Their number was almost incalculable, 
 passing- all da\' lonj; in flocks or in continuous streams 
 o\er the ship. They flew with a steady, rapid (h.^ht, 
 and furnished excellent sport, but their j^luma.i^e was so 
 dense that nian\' which were struck b\- the shot esca])ed 
 uninjured. 
 
 Later in the cvenin.i( another party went to the en- 
 trance of .McCormick Hay, and here had excellent sport, 
 returnin_^; with lari;e numbers of the birds. The majorit\' 
 of these were little aiiks, bu' there were also man\- black 
 ^niillemots. 
 
 
CHAP TICK X 
 
 A SCIIOOI, OI- WlIITH WllAI.l.S. -lilhDINC. (lOODUN lO Till'. 
 
 l'i;\i<N- I'AKTN. Ax AiuTic Stokm. — ( iU()\vi,i:i<s. Sain- 
 DKus Island. SoiTiiwAKii i'.orNM. Ckimson Cmi'is. — 
 Ki;i> vSxdw, ^ Tin: Capi: NOkk .\ativi;s.— An IIskimo 
 
 'l'.\\\M\i. 
 
 ^T'^IIIC (lays jxisscd rapidh' in tlu-se pleasant snrnmnd- 
 
 -*- iii.^s. The naturalists inw-stij^attd tin.- adjacent 
 
 shores, and hrouij^ht back to the ship many interesting; 
 
 specimens of birds' e,L;,i;s, insects, and plants. I'rot". 
 
 Sharp dra!L^<.;ed the bay, and obtained some rather cnrions 
 
 forms of marine life, amoniL; others a small fish pro\ided 
 
 with a snckini; arrangement, e\idently for the ])nrpose 
 
 of attachiiijj; itself to other objects. The water teemed 
 
 with small red shrimjis, which constitnted the prineijial 
 
 food for the mnltitude of birds. 
 
 The work of nnloadini; the shi]) still went on, and as 
 
 e\er\lhin!:; had to be takin ashore in small boats, it was 
 
 both tedions and tronblesonie. Wednesday daw ned cold 
 
 and nnpleasant, and the snow, which fell the j^reater 
 
 jiart of the day, rendereil the decks wet and disa<;;reeable. 
 
 In the exenin.^- we were treated to the nnusnal sii^lu of a 
 
 school of white whales. '['he\' were the first we had 
 
 seen, and as the\ came (piite ni-ar the shi]\ we had 
 
 ample opportnnit\' to observe them carefulh'. They 
 
 III 
 
142 
 
 /X .IRC77C SF.. IS. 
 
 II I 
 
 rt'inaiiifd near us lor al)()Ul half an lioiir, and their play- 
 ful and sportive actions alTorded considerable amusement. 
 
 The sixth (la\ of our stay in .McCormick I>a\- was so 
 fo^<4y that only at occasional inter\als were we able to 
 see the shore, a ([uarter of a mile distant. The house 
 havin>4 been so far completed as to render a lousier sta\- 
 unnecessary, it was proposed t(j start on the homeward 
 trip that nij^ht, provided the weather cleared sufTicieiitly 
 to enable us to .see our way. The fo.l,^ however, con- 
 tinticd throuirh the ni.i^ht, but lifted at 5.30 the following; 
 mornin<j. We were all called at this hour to bid ^a)od- 
 by to Peary's jxirty. < )f the Peary e.xpedition all except 
 the lieutenant and his wife had stayed aboard, so as to 
 write letters for us U) take home for them. We had 
 become <;reatly attached to one another, havinjj; lived so 
 intimately tojjether for two months as one expedition, 
 and the partin<i^, possibly for ever, althouinh not demonstra- 
 tive, was painful to all. While some were to remain in 
 a desolate and unknown rej^ion that is only within reach 
 of civilization for a few short weeks during the \ear, the 
 others, after their severe experience in forcing a passage 
 northward, were to undergo a perhaps still more danger- 
 ous voyage to their native land. 
 
 It made us all sad and thoughtful, and after exchang- 
 ing a few souvenirs and well-wishes we bade each other 
 good-by. Three shrill blasts of the whistle and a \()lle\- 
 from our guns signalized our departun-. Ne\er had I 
 listened to a farewell salute that atfected me so .sadly, 
 showing the dilTerent elTect produced b\- the strangeness 
 of our surroundings and the peculiarity of the circnm- 
 
 T ■ I 
 
 > 
 
 
nil-: i()).i(./' OF HIE Km:. 
 
 143 
 
 staiuxs. As tlKir Ixml lowrd olT llu'\- <^a\c' lluvc clurrs, 
 
 1)111 iiol willi iIk- Iirarly riii^; thai I had hi-ard iVoni llic 
 
 saiiu ihioals hitorc'. 'IMic signal hell in llic (.•ii^iiK-idiiin 
 
 rauL; full >j)iL-d alaad, ami in a ll-w ininulLS \vc- (k-parli-d 
 
 tVoiii iIk- iiKol norllKTU whik- srUk'nu'iU on llii' hIoIji-, 
 
 k-a\ini4 our CDinpanioiis lo face lliuir chosfii diiU' in that 
 
 aliiiosl nurc'ik'ss Arctic climate. 
 
 ( )nr course south was a^aiu hv Murchiusou .Sound and 
 
 hetween I lei hcrL and Xorthnnihtrland Islands. 'IMuwind, 
 
 which had been increasing;, soon turned into a jL^ale, ami 1)\' 
 
 noon a slorui was fairly u]ion us. It ke])l ^eltinn' worse, 
 
 and, anticipatim; trouble, e\erylhim; about the \essel was 
 
 made suu^; as the barometer continued to fall, we ran the 
 
 shij) under the lee of the mainland, ho])inL; to iscape xiuie 
 
 of the fur\()f the storm. In one hour the wind ha<l ri^eu 
 
 to almost hurricane force, and the water was lashed into 
 
 such foam and s]ira\ thai it was ini])os>ible to see more 
 
 than a couple of ship-k-n^ths ahead. ( )ccasionall\'. 
 
 through a break in the mi-^l, the ice-co\-ered dills of 
 
 Ca])e I'owlel could be seen, when was lo be had a \iew 
 
 of ihe wildest ami most ma^iiificeul .grandeur. 'I'lie 
 
 fearlul ^riudini; and clashing; *if collidim;- ber^^, ihe 
 
 lumulluous sea, la>hed to il> ulnio>t fur\-, and the 
 
 screeching and roaring; of the mighty wind cond)ined 
 
 lo produce an impre>-~ion newr lo be forgotten. 
 
 Such experience^, with the siram^euess of our •^ur- 
 
 roundiii'^s, so differtiit iVoni tho>e lo wliiih wc' had bei n 
 
 accuslome(l, mt-ded but lillle more lo eon\ince us that 
 
 we weri' on another planet. .So lenific was ihe force of 
 
 the j^ale thai ihe sla\-sail was blown from ils _t;askels, ;;nd 
 lu 
 
144 
 
 AV .lA'C/Vc s/-:.is. 
 
 \ t 
 
 the (.■iii^iiics, allli()ii<;li .s^oiiiL; at lull spct-d, were not 
 always able to kvv\) the ship's head to the wind, e\en 
 with the aid of tlu' most careful luaiKeuvriut;'. Sexeral 
 times we were driven toward the lee shore, whieh was 
 known to he less than a mile awa\. The thickness of 
 the weather added much to our anxietx-. Ivverx' few 
 minutes a j^ij^antic iceheri^ would loom like a spectre 
 thron.iih the mist, sometimes ct)min,!^r within a few \ards 
 of us, and makin.i:^ as serious and horrible a situation as 
 can well be imagined. The frijL'htfnl howlini,^ and 
 screamin.y; of the winds thr()U<;h these lonel\- fiords 
 could not be conceixed b\- the most vi\id imaj^ination. 
 The deafeniui,^ roar of crashini^- ice and coUidinjj^ berets 
 added to the experiences of this frightful dav. and the 
 fras^Muenls and debris increased our consternation by 
 ponndinjj; aj^ainst the shii)'s sides. The hu.i^e fraii^ments 
 of ice became so abundant later as to have a \ery per- 
 ceptible effect in snbduiniLi;- the force of the waves, and 
 thus allowed the ship to ride more easily; but the storm 
 •continued with unabated fury, the wind still came with 
 hurricane force, and it was not until eveninn- that the 
 weather cleared snlTicientK- for us to see our dangerous 
 proximilx' to the rock\' coast of Xorthumberland Island. 
 An efTort was now made to t^a't inider the lee of Cai)e 
 Powlet, but although we were able to j^et cpiite near, the 
 force of the wind would not allow us to hold our ])osi- 
 tion, and after three liours of hard work we were drixen 
 out to sea. 
 
 The dan<;er from the ice was now <;reatly increa.scd, 
 as the .sea wa> fiUeil witli the broken fra^nients of ice- 
 
////; ro )■.!(;/■: o/- iiii: Kin:. 
 
 145 
 
 bt-r^fs, foniiiii;^' what tlif sailors know as " <4ro\vkrs." 
 ThcsL- art' lai^v, waU-i-Io^m-d inassi-s of ice, ground by 
 attrition with otlur ice and hir^s into a roni^lily s])lR-ri- 
 cal form. They rise and fall with the waxes, often dis- 
 ajipeariiii^ heneatli the snrfaci-, and constitute one of the 
 most dangerous forms of ice found in Northern seas. .\.s 
 they rise the water rushes from their sides hack into the 
 sea, ])ro(lucin<; a roaring or }.;rowlini:; sound which can 
 be heard (|nite a distance off; hence the name ".growler." 
 ( )ne rose directly in front of the vessel, but fortunately 
 struck the shi]) slantingly on her bows. Had it risen 
 beneath the hull, she would almost inevitabh' ha\e 
 foundered. At last, howe\er, the wind secMued to mod- 
 erate, and. the barometer be^innini^ to indicate better 
 weather, we were able to keep on our course to vSannders 
 Island, which now became \isible. On our way toward 
 it we passed iMtz.ii^erahrs Rock, a bell-sha])ed ])rojection 
 which had attracted our attention on the ])assa!.;e up. It 
 had bien our intention to stop on the \()yame homeward, 
 but the sea, which was rolling hij^h, and the still heav\' 
 win<l made a landint; impossible. In<k'ed, we had little 
 dc-sire to attempt it, for the dark and clond\- sk\ had cast 
 such a j^loom ovi r e\-er\lhinL^ as to dampen all ardor for 
 mw explorations. The next da\- found us .it .Saunders 
 Island, whither we had c< nie for birds and with the lio])e 
 of finding ICskimo relics. We circumua\ii;ated the 
 island, looking; for a safe landini;-]>l.u'(,-, which w.is 
 fuiallv found; but the wind, having ai;.iiu increased to 
 almost a male, made it imjjossible to yet ashore in safit\\ 
 so tilt ship was run nmler the lee of llje island, the clifls 
 
PT 
 
 14^. 
 
 /.\' .//v'( //(• s/:.i.s: 
 
 \ I 
 
 of which rose- ahniptly from the wak-r's cdt^c to tht- 
 hti^ht of many huiidR'd feet. 
 
 Myriads of birds had their nests on the face of these 
 cliffs, and a rille-ljnllet sent to these otherwise inaccessi- 
 l^le heif^hts startled so nian\- birds as to almost darken 
 the sky as the\- rose in the air and left their lofty homes 
 in flij^ht. The sides o[ the rocks were abont two miles 
 loni; and so covered with nests and birds as to j^ive to 
 them a characteristic color. It was onr hope that on the 
 morrow an opporiunity wonld be alTorded ns of .^oint^ 
 ashore and luuinj; a close view of this interestinj^- island, 
 the appearance of wdiich from the ship was verv pictnr- 
 es(ine. On its southern side a larj^e and beantifnl cas- 
 cade was seen fallin<4 from a di/,/.\- hei)^ht to the sea 
 below, and the ])atches of yreen near the fallini.;- waters 
 showed the beneliceiit intlnence of fresh water and snn- 
 li<;lu. This rich harvest of stranj^e mosses and lichens 
 wailing to be leathered made onr botanist espccialK' anx- 
 ious to ^(.1 ashore. The wind was blowin.ij^ so hard that 
 Ca])tain Pike endeavored to make the ship fast to an ice- 
 berg which was thou.nht to l)e firinh' <;ronnded; but the 
 sailors, who had taken onr hawser in a small boat, had 
 hardly reached it when it was found to be mo\in^, and 
 they were nearh' crushed between the beri:;' and the \essel. 
 It was onl\- b\ the nu)sl strenuous exertions that the 
 boat escaped and they were sa\ed. 
 
 .Xnchora.^e was fmalK found in fd'teen fathoms of 
 water, but the bottom bein^ smooth rock, the anchor did 
 not hold the ship well a;^aiusl the heav\ wind, and we 
 shifted our position se\eral times duriu!^- the ni^ht. .\n- 
 
7//A" r< >).!(,/■: (>r ////■: a///-; 
 
 147 
 
 othrr (lay was passid 1\ in.t^ Ui under tlu' lii' of Saunders 
 l>Lmd with lln.' wind slill ])lowin,!^ a ,nak', and tliis linic 
 wc' fliani^fd our localion I)nt liltk", as, with tlif aid of 
 onr anrlidis and tin.' use of siiani (luring; tlio liaiik->l 
 Mows, wc niatia^t^fd to kftp under the hiL;h cdiff^. which 
 foutinned to afford souu- slielter. The s(|ualls. whieli 
 foUowid one another in (juiek ^ueeession, were nio->t kai- 
 fnl and xiok'Ut, au'' the few nu)nients of intir\'enin<; 
 cakn seenud only yixeu to eiiahk- llie .s^ak- to iuiMtase 
 its slreu<4lh in its el'forls to o\erwliehn us. The w in(k 
 whieh liad l)k)wu with almost unahati'd fur\' for the last 
 four da\s, at last be^^au to nioikrate, and late at nis^ht, 
 !)>• steauiiui^' close under the c]iff>. we were (.uaklcil to 
 approach near enough to shore to enter coniparatix el\ 
 smooth water and make a laudin;^ in a small boat. 
 
 ( )ne end of the island was Hat. and there' it wa> that 
 we' found some sii^us of Mskinio Hie'. There were .--e\ eral 
 unoccupied stone huts, a ^led^e, the franuwork of a 
 kajak, some' old ]uece> of iron and bone tools, and a lew 
 other e\ ideuce'S of the ])lace' ha\ iiii; been \\>L-d reeeuth 
 as a e-amj) b\ natixes. 'i'here' were also some stone i^iraxts 
 coiUaiuin;^ a few scatte're'd bones, but nothiuL;' thai indi- 
 catrd that there had bi'e'U au\ recent burials. After 
 coui])letiu,i; our iuxesti^atious wi' returne'd to the' ship 
 and one'e' more starte-d on our jouruex' southward. 'IMie 
 next da\', .\u_<.just 2d, was r.iin\ and thick, much of the 
 «4raud and lofty scene r\- which characteri/eil this jiart of 
 the \-o\a:.;e beiui^ but dinds' visible through the- foL; and 
 mist— a fact i^re'ath' re'.nrelted b\' ali. ( )nr run was made' 
 close to the laud, as the sea further out w;is lilled with 
 
PF 
 
 148 
 
 /x .//v'(7/(" s/:.is. 
 
 ) • 
 
 if" vSc'N'c'tal lar!:^^ -^'lai-iiis, wliii-li had bciii siin on 
 our uortliward jntinuA only at a (li>-taiu'i\ win- imw oh- 
 stTVLcl al cloM' raii,^!'. Tlnir iiniiK'iisi- «.'\tciil r(.ailil\' 
 CNplaiiud llu' ()ri.i;iii of ihv i^ii'al iuiimIrt and size of the 
 ict'lKT^^s i'\(.'r\ whcif visihk'. 'I'Ir- famous Conical Rock, 
 iitMirions l)asallic" fovnialion dofrihi'd loiii; aijo I>\' Cap- 
 lain Koss, was pa>si(l, and \vi' wxrc soon iindtT llu> kc 
 of Capi.' York, whose "crinison clilTs" ^k\iini'il in tin.- 
 occasional bursts oi' siinlij^ht. 
 
 These crimson cliOs did not appear 1)> any means so 
 hi.i;hl\' colored as we had expected to see tliem, hut they 
 prescntt'd iiewrthelcss an aito^n-lher unique appearance, 
 as ever\\vhcre else in Xortherii (Ireenland the voek\- 
 elills. risiuiLj abrupth from the sea exhibit the familiar 
 stratified formation of sandstone rock. Instead, how- 
 ever, of bein^ of the uniform dull-brown color eonimouK' 
 seen in this latitmle, the\ were of a tawn\- reddish hue. 
 Opinions dilTered as to the cause of this peculiarity. 
 Some of the p;irt\ belie\'ed that it was due simjily to a 
 dilferenl colored sandstone, but the botanist claimed th.it 
 it was caused b\- the .^ri'at masses of an orant^e-colored 
 lichen which L^rew e\er\ where in abtmdance. 
 
 Patches of the red snow peeuH.ar to the Arctic rcfjions 
 were observed on the ^l.ieiers and in the sh.adv nooks of 
 the ice, but its color was wholh- different from th.it of 
 the curious clilTs mentioned abo\c. I.ater, we had .111 
 oj)portunit\- of ^atherin<^ and examininj:;- some of this 
 red snow, which tx'eurs in ])atehes and exists onl\- on 
 the surface: an inch below, tin- snow was ;is ])ure a white 
 as that found au\ where. The color was not nnifurni 
 
 . I 
 
■/■///■; /VM' /^/■.• rv /■/// Kin: 
 
 > P) 
 
 fvcii (111 llu" surrux', lull ociiimd in >lri;ik-^. ( )ii c'l<i>ir 
 cxaniiuiilioii il was Ibuii'l to t\i>t in tlir litllc (.r\ >ials 
 of SHOW uliic'li r()iii]i(tsf(l llu- .sMrfac'c, and k\k\\ in iIk^c 
 tlu' tinl \va> not llu' --.inu' llironj^liont, hut ladialid iVuin 
 cc'titfcs, WIk'M llu' snow was iiulti'd it tnniud a lui'^lit- 
 rcd li(|nid about llu' sliadt- ot'cdarcl pniu-li, and on .>tand- 
 iii;^r llic colorinj^ inattcT j^iadually scttlid to tlic iMittoiii 
 as a del']) ri'd scdinu'iit, which, nndcr llu- niiciost'opf. 
 j)rov(.'d to l)f coiiipostfl of a tninult'-cidli-d phint. ihr /)/>;- 
 
 fin (U (Hi >ii:n/is 
 
 vSo 
 
 olor tliat cA'iii iindiT 
 wliich cansi's a ri-d 
 
 intcnsf is 1 
 a iiowtr of four hundred diainrtcrs 
 coriMisclc of thf blood to appear almost coIorUss, it was 
 still of a brilliant red hue. 
 
 'rwclve miles below the cape siAcral skin tints iH" 
 natives were indistinctly scin thion^h tin- lo-^. Soon 
 the sound of " Ki-iiio " was hrard rcpcatidlw couiiii'^ 
 from the shore. This is the cry b\ which the I'',>kiiuos 
 jjjrcet the arrival of a ship, and in a few niiuutrs tlu- 
 natives were seen coiiiiii;^ toward us oxir tlu' ic-e, s'-uie 
 oil foot, and others with sledi^es and do;^'^. Their pe- 
 culiar attire and \arious antics cxpri'ssiiii^ delight ])re- 
 sented a most intercstiii;^ s])ectacle. The ship w is 
 made fast to the ici', which reached some i iisla uce 
 from the shore; but v\x\\ liefoie we had our ice-aiuli(.rs 
 firmh' inserted the uati\es were tliinbiu^ o\i.r the side >. 
 As soon as the ship was propi.Tl\ secured some ot" our 
 ])arty, inclndin_y; nnselt", went off on tlu- ic-e. Thi>. 
 althouj^h quite thick and hea\\, was roui^li ami much 
 broken U]), with scams of water ruuniiiL; in all directions. 
 While the ship was appiuachiii;^ the >hore the tents 
 
 .S-^^^ 
 
I so 
 
 /.\- .ih'i //c sr.is. 
 
 wliic-li \V(.' had (ksciicd lliroii^li the ro<j a.i;ain c.iiin.' iiitf) 
 \ icw. 'IMr'V well.- al llial tiiiir so far olTas to hf scarcely 
 (lisliiiL.Miisliai)I(.- iVoiii the inaii\ iicc-iiliaiiy-sliapi-d rocks 
 
 I I 
 
 
 if! 
 
 wliii-h (.■oiistilulr the iiic)Uiilaiii->i«k> in thr \i(.-iiiii\ of 
 the- (.ape; it was lowaid ihoc- teiils thai our coiir>e- was 
 (lirrc-lrd. 
 
 \\'i' liail >i'.irc\l\ Kit ihf \csm 1 whin mhiu of tlu- ua- 
 
 , ^ 
 
/■///■; i(^):i(,/-: or riii- kiii: 
 
 '51 
 
 ti\is (111 l)(i;nil iidliccd llial \vc wcif .^oiii!^ in llu- diirc- 
 lioii ot'llKii \illa:^c\ and oiif ^.M iluiii \\a-< xmii (i\i r tlu- 
 sidf and liastciiiiii^; afUT us. St-i-iii;^ llial lit.' \vi>ln.(l I > 
 acc()iii|iaiiy us, wc slopped and .iwaitid liiiu, as it was 
 C'\:d(,iil froiu his luauucr llrit lie was uuwilliu;^ tor us to 
 \ciitun' a(.'i(>--s aloiK'. \\\- wlit oulx too ^lad to lia\c' 
 liiui join us, as tra\ 'lliii'^ o\(.r tlir hvoktii ai:d ti»tir(.;i 
 iff was both diflicull aufl dau^fious. IK prowd to hr a 
 most iiicriy liltlc tVllow, and with him artiii^ as imiulc- 
 \vc were able to pro,i;rcss more rapidh- and with ^natrr 
 safcU' lliaii wc woulfl liavf been aide to do it' Kit to our- 
 selves. He would run ahead, junipinj^; iVoin oiu' eakiot" 
 iee to another with the !L,neatesl case and ai^ililw stojipiiiL; 
 onl\- when one of lis wr)uld mil a tall or a t"o<)t wet in the 
 water whieh was lying here and there in pool> on ihe 
 surtaee of the ice; then he would exince his aiiiuse- 
 meiil at our discomfiture b\- mi\ intj wav to most lie:irt\- 
 lau.L^hler. Clad as we were in lieaxv overcoats and 
 loni; boots, we must indeed ha\'e presented an awkward 
 spectacle ill our endeavors to keep up with our niuible 
 Companion; liowtAcr, under his guidance we sonn 
 reached the shore. 
 
 The iiatixe \ illa^e was loutid to be situatid about a 
 quarter of a mile iVoui the water's edj^e, up the si<U (;f 
 the mountain. There was 110 path, and we had to climb 
 o\er and .around the lar;H' rocks and bouhUrs with whieh 
 tile L^round w.is c\ i r\ wheie cii\-er<.(l. Tliis w.is i \ i u a 
 more dilTicult and laborious undertaking than (Hir pa:~>ai;e 
 over the ice. The rocks, beiuu; wet iVoiu tlie rain ,uid 
 fo;^ and i-o\ered with lichen--, were \ cry slippery, and, 
 
>«■' 
 
 152 
 
 /.\- .iA'i//( s/:.is. 
 
 ciu'uni1)fR(l as \vf wvw by lu-avy cloth iui;, oiir pn^^Mt-s'; 
 was n(.-ci'S>arilv slow. 
 
 Ani\iii,n al last al llu- \illa!;c, wc foiiiid il inucli more 
 (.xtciisivc than the oiu- already seen farther north. It 
 consistid of ahont a do/en skin or summer 1k)MS's and 
 twenty stone huts, nse<l only in. winter. The village 
 was situated on very ronj^h <;round, the tents hein^^ 
 erected where\er space enoti'^h for them conld he fi.und 
 hetwtxai the boulders. Tln'y wtae rather close to,!.4ether, 
 but the st(*ne huts, on tin.' contrary, bein;.; built wlur- 
 e\ir a favorable spot coidd be found, were more scattereil, 
 most of them bein.t^- uvav to the sea. 
 
 The place was ])ractically deserted, the inhabitants 
 ha\ iuL; ^omoff to our ship. .\ few women, children, and 
 doi^s were all that j^reeted our arrival; tlu> seemed 
 j^reatK- astoni^hed at such an une\])ecled visit, and wi re 
 cvidentK- somewhat alarmed. The xoun^er childnn 
 showc-d their fear by cryin^u; and clin^ini.; closelv to 
 their motlu r>. A lew presents ot" needles soon assured 
 the women of our friiudliuess, and at once caused peace 
 to rei^n. On hx^kiu!^ around dirt .md refuse wi're, as 
 usual, found to be e\erywhere pri>ent. The bunts ;ind 
 partlv -consumed carcassis ot w.drust's, narwhals, and 
 seals were scattiied indisi i'minatel\' about. Tlu' wattr 
 from the uielliuL; snow of tlu' mountains tri. kled throULdi 
 the xilla^e, and with llu' little snow between the rocks 
 and the omnipresent tilth matk- the w.ilkiui; liisa^reeable 
 cnou.L^h. 
 
 We separated, and wandered thioULjh the pi. ice luok- 
 iu^H into tents ami seeing what we couUl. TeepinL; into 
 
////•; I (>). !(,/■: '-/■' ////•; a///-; 
 
 ^53 
 
 oiU" of tluni, I saw a woman dili^c'tilh' ciiiplo\f(l in ciU- 
 liiij^ and scwinjj; skins. SlRwn all ahont the interior 
 
 l-KIM(i 1;i'M: MIMI, lUD- I li!:i.^ AillAl. >I/.K. 
 
 won- furs and siwinj^ iniiikiiK-iits, so it appcaivd (.n idciit 
 that I had found a tailor. .\lthou,i;h tlu- clothing of ail 
 of ns ncfik'd n.-j)airs and considirahlf patchiu^, I ^.■^- 
 pccialh' wa^. sulTc-.in.t; for a new pair of trousers. litre 
 aptn-a. 1 to be a chatiee not to l;e lost, so uei^otiatious 
 were at onee opened with the lady lor their manufacture 
 1)\ i)resentin<j; her with a ]^nife. It was not w itlioul cou- 
 s!<!' 'able dilTieully that I succeeded in convtviuL; to lur 
 ...; .p]>ro\imate idea of the st\ le of article desired, as I 
 wished them to reach to the leel instead ofouK ju>l below 
 the knee, as was "a la modi-" at Cape \'ork. 'IMiat 
 much was al last accomplished, but the aildition of 
 pockets beim^ beyond her powers ot comprehension, I 
 was compelled to forego those luxuries. 
 
 The question of sty'e haxin;..; bii u deiidid, shi- pio- 
 ceedeil to take m\ measure'. This was done in ,i ratlu r 
 novel manner. Ha\in;^ selected a seal-skin of sutiicieul 
 length and width t'rom a ]iile in one corner ol tlu tent, 
 it w.is wra|)ped around the lind) tlu' fur side bein>j 
 placed inward; tlu- sur])Ius m.itirial was ilun biui oxi-r 
 with the tinkers and tlu- skin renio\fd. 'I'lu- crease so 
 foi lied ser\ed as a ^uide for tlu- ne-\t pro(H-(lure, wliich 
 coiisisli-d in bitin;^ alou-^ the line- with tlu- ti-eth so .is to 
 cause the lold to lie llit. This beiui^ .u-eouiplislud, it 
 
K>\ 
 
 /.y .lA'iVvr s/: is. 
 
 . I ■ • 
 
 was a,L;aiii applinl to llu' iiinh am! a h\v >'ii^lit alltrat ions 
 iiiarkrd with an ailiiilioiial l)ilr licir ami tluic. Tlu' 
 >'iiai)t.' lia\iiii; l)(.'i-ii((iit liiU'd, tiir --kiu wa^ aL^ain niiiowd, 
 aiul ihf liiirs lliiis iiiarkrd hi-iii^ lullowi-d willi a nuUly- 
 iiiadf kiiilr, t 1k' oiiltiii^ of llir Iroiisrrs was fonijiKti-d. 
 
 Willi {\\c ohjc'ct of racilitatiiii^' llu' woik. 1 oflln-d ]\vv 
 tliL' nsr of a pair of scissors wdiii'li I hail hvoiiuilit with iiU' 
 fioiii thf -^hi]'. hut, luaii;^ ciitiix-K' luif iiiiiliai- with tlnir 
 n-'C, she pirrnrrc] Ikt own knik', and, sninL^- I was onl\' 
 (kda\ ini; o])t.rations, I \iiitnir<l to niakr no nioU' sul^'^cs- 
 tions. Desiring to ha■^l^•n tluir nianuf u'lnn\ 1 Ljavt' 
 luT a few additional nreilK's, Imt soon lound llia.t 
 I'.^kinio character rc-cndilcd in sonu' rc--]Hcts that exist- 
 in:^- in niori' ti^nipcrati' zonts, and that it was not alwa\s 
 1^ lod policN' to pa\- in ad\ancc. Instead of workin'^ 
 f a^tei', ni\ tailor kiLji^ed still more; indeed, so litilc proi;- 
 re>s was niadt, and so evident was it that she w.is 
 ()nl\- endea\()rini'; to (.xtort additionad pa\ from nie, that, 
 appreciating: ni\ mistake, and despairin;^ of m'ttin;^^ ]n\' 
 nmeh-needed article of clothing I'omplelcd, 1 decided on 
 taking them awa\' as lhe\ ware. 
 
 Jnst at this moment I w,is dist-ov c reil 1)\ soimnf m\' 
 couiiianions from the A '/A, anil, as the\ were ahont re- 
 turning; to the ship, I '^n[ riMiK to aceom]>,nn them 
 Taking the unfnii--hed troupers .aw,i\ from the woman, 
 who parted with them reluctanth, wi- started off Wi- 
 ll id not ;^one fir wlu n we saw that •-he wa> follnwin^ n>, 
 appeariiiL; to rcL^ret h/r unsremh lieha\ ior and wi^hiii'^ 
 to make anuaids. 'IMie ship w,i> miou reached, and, fiiid- 
 ili'i the dee'k^ lull of ll,lti\e-^, I at oner coiuracli d with 
 
 H 
 
 I 
 
"""""laMMIMMi 
 
 M 'I 
 
////•; ro): !(,/■: or ////■: a///:. 
 
 157 
 
 sonic to liaw the work conipU'tcd on l)()ar(l. vSt.\(.ral 
 wdiiR'n l)C'L;au on tluni, and as soon as in\' hack was 
 turned ni\' original tailor joined tlic ^roup. I»v the 
 kuij^htcr wliicli soon arose I was convinced tliat lht'\ aj)- 
 ])recialed the true state of alTairs and were amused at her 
 discomfiture. The trousers were soon finished, and I 
 wore tlieiu until our return south necessitated a cliau<.;e 
 to more civilized attire. 
 
 As inan\- as fifty Ivskiinos had come to \isit us, some 
 on foot, ;ind others witli d.oj^-s and sled.tjes. They hrought 
 uUmi}^ many articles to trade; indeed, they seemed to 
 ]ia\-e with them almost cverythin,^- they possessed, e\-en 
 to the Ions of their children. 
 
 Our visitors were of all a_o;cs, sizes, and conditions, 
 ineludin;.;- the hahies, who oa/.ed on the stran<^e si.^rhts 
 with wonder and interest. »Somc of them were not over 
 a month or tw(j old, beinjf carried on their mothers' 
 backs. Their cute little faces and bri.^ht black c\es 
 peering out from their odd restiiij^;-i)lace made (|uitc an 
 interestin<; picture. Many of the smaller children were 
 obsi'r\ed munchin;^ away with .^reat axidity on raw 
 birds which had been j^ixen to them by the sailors, and 
 exhibitiiis;" as much pleasure as the civilized child 
 would exjierience in e,uin<;' cakes and candy. Alter 
 consumiuij the bird the\- iiuariably rubbed the fatly 
 skin oxer their faces; this they are tauj^ht to do at an 
 earlv a^e, as the coatiuLj of grease so a])plied serxes to 
 render the exposed skin less sensitive and protects it 
 from the extreme cold of winter. Some of them pre- 
 sented, indeed, a most ludicrous appearaaice owiui;; to 
 
IvS 
 
 /.\- .iA'(//( .s/;. /.s 
 
 ) »'^ 
 
 iIk- t'calhcrs whicli iviiiaiiu-tl on tin- face alU'r ilu' i-oiii- 
 pk'lioii dT this jJiotHiluM-. 
 
 Tlif adult ])(»iliiin of our \i>il(pr> wMiukrid about llic 
 ship at their pkasuie, lookiii,^; iulo (.miv nook and 
 c'oiuer ami L'xhihiliu.L; the ulniosi curiosity. They were 
 so j^ood-natuied, harmless, ;ind ehildlike in tluir man- 
 ner that it was a pleasure to show thcni whatevir we 
 could. TIka were mueh ileliiL^htt'd in lookin;^ at iheiu- 
 seK'es in a mirror, and a ])air of hlne-jL^lass speelac-les 
 loaned to out- of them were not returui'fl until iIka had 
 keen passed from hand to hanil ami each had had a look 
 lhruu<,di them. 
 
ciiA i''ri:R XI. 
 
 AlU'lK' Cl.OTIIlNt. A Sll.lK.l KIlH A\ InHK.N \NI' I!>l<IMn 
 
 I.M'V rili: N\ll\l, l•^l(■,^, Si. I. 111. I. s. 
 
 ^T"^! 11"',I\ IC l)(.iii,L; siuli a lai^r umiiln i ol iiati\(.> on iIk- 
 
 -i- --liip, ail (.•xnllciu opiMii luiiily \va> allnKkd ii> dt" 
 
 <)l)S(.i\ iii;^ llu- ptculiar cliaiatlrr tii' lliiir cldtliiiii; and 
 
 kMiiiiii;^ how t!uy piokck'd i1iliiim.i\ l> tVoin iIil' iiL;oi-^ 
 
 (if lluii' (.'liiiiaU'. Tile iiiixli' of (l!(>> in liotli M'\f> was 
 
 iiincli alikf. and (.■oii>i>li(l (jf a j-irkfl, lIon>^c^•^, and liool>. 
 
 'IMust.' well' iiKuk' lilktr ol' llu' >kin of 'lir krar. seal, do^;, 
 
 ()V iviiKk'c r, ami ofliii a cdinhinalion ol ail. Sial i> tlio 
 
 iiio>l tic(|iuiill\ iisi'ck tin- otluis kiiiiL; k -> i-onmu)ii. 
 
 Tlir jacket (.•nvt-rs tin- l)od\ from ilic w.iisl up, and Ici- 
 
 ininalts in a liood wliicli (.'omis the lirad, kiU IcaNcs .i iiart 
 
 ol' ikc facT cxposftk This jackfl is iiiadt.- in llic fonn of 
 
 a single piece, and is put on 1)\ kiiiii; hron^kl down o\ci" 
 
 till- head; no kn'toiis or otlur fasUniiiiL^s arc iiscd cxccpl 
 
 wkcii iniltcns arc worn, which arc tied aroiind at the 
 
 wiist>. The hood fits clo>cl\ to the >i(k of ihc face, onl\- 
 
 lca\iiiL; the latter e\]>o>ed iVoiii the forcliiad to tlu- ( hiii. 
 
 The trousers reach iVoin the waist to the call ol the 
 
 Icl;, and haw two opruiip^s .1 few inclics lon;^ in the 
 
 >i(k>, which arc clo^iij k\ nie.iiis of a tord. 'I'lie hoots 
 
 ari' alwa\s niaile donhk-, tlic inner part hcini^ llu ^kin 
 
 of sonic lonL;-haired aiiiinal, snch as tin.' hiar or do^^ 
 
 with the Ini" inriRd inwartl. and tlie untci of .st,-al-skin 
 11 i.'.t 
 
iCiC) 
 
 /.V .lA'C/VC .SA". /.V 
 
 M'' 
 
 witli the hair R'liKJwd. Thcs' aw (h'awii up omt the 
 liiwti- (.'lid of thi.- trousfis and hoiitid firiiil\- about tht.- 
 calf of llic k'!^ with leather ihouj^'s, thus uiakiu.^ ihi' 
 cnsiuuie walei-lii^hl U]) to tlit- waist. I'udcrueath this 
 outii suit there was \vf)ru, 1)\- some, au undi r-jaekit. 
 likiwise e\ti'ndiu,i,f to tlie waist, hut without tile hood. 
 This was uiade of bird-skins sewn to^'ether, and worn 
 with the fiMthers next to the skin. The jaeket and 
 trousers just about met at the waist; indeed, so sli_L,ditlv 
 proti'eted was this part of the body that in bendini; over 
 the bare skin was frequently exposed. 
 
 The hands arc protected by mittens made of doj^-skin. 
 These are not very lonj.^, but sufTiciently so to _l;o up iin- 
 cKr the tnd of the sleeves of the jacket, the point of 
 nieetinj^ ])ein<^ made more secure by l)indin_v;; with .a strip 
 of skin. 
 
 The only difference in the costumes of the women and 
 UK 11 was in the jacket. In the former the hood was made 
 somewhat hij^her in order to accommodate their hair, and 
 a few i)ossesscd, in addition, a pouch on the back in which 
 the infants were placed and so carried around. Some of 
 these pouches had an opcnin,i>; cut in them, so that the 
 child could rest in contact with the bare skin of its 
 iiiother, and in that way obtain additional warmth. The 
 child, usually naked, is placed in the pouch and packed 
 around with fur and feathers. When the mother desires 
 to take the baby out, she stoops forward, bends her head 
 well down, and .i;i\es her body a shake. This starts the 
 infant from the jioucli, and the mother, raisinj; her hands 
 over her shoulder, draws it forth. 
 
////■; Kn.K./-: (>/■ ////: a///-;. 
 
 if)i 
 
 'Plu' jackit and hood, luiiij^ iiiaiK' in a sin^U- jiit'ce. 
 arc XI ; i.i^id and fit so ti,i;litly thai it is ahnost inipossihli- 
 to tnvn thr lu-ad withonl nH)\in,^^ ihi- ho(l\-. Whrii it is 
 (K'sind to look in an\ |),ii ticnlar diiiTtion, tlicy tuin 
 around with a stitV, awkward nio\i'nK'iit nntil thr ohji^cl 
 is hronj^lit within \ icw. 'i'hc fur ilotliinj;, hi'inn niadi- 
 of skin^ thai arc rathi'r han! wdun (.nn-d and not pir- 
 fccll) |)Iial)k', prc-vcnts ihi-ir nui\in.L; with llial tVii-doni 
 wliicli is possible with oilier people. This i^ixis to liu ir 
 ni()\enieuls a slifTand anlonialic eharaeter, which at tir>t 
 sijL,dU appears (|nile droll, and slron,iL,d\ reminds one ot' 
 ihe actions of the puppets seen al shows j^iven tor the 
 aninseinent of children. The small size o( ihv Iv^kinio 
 as compared to the averaj;e ICuropean al>o adds to the 
 effect and tends to en- 
 hance the resemblance. 
 
 The natives were con- 
 tinually Roini; backward 
 and forward tVom the ves- 
 sel to the shore, brint^injr 
 things for trade. It was 
 durinj; one of these trips 
 that I was enabled to en- 
 jo\- the noveltx' and jileas- 
 nre ol" a sle(lj;c-ride. Ivski- 
 nu) fashion. I'or a few 
 trinkets a nati\e placed 
 
 himself, his sledj^e, and his doiL^s al ni\- disposal. I had 
 hardlv seated nnself on the furs with which the sled<;e 
 was co\cred, and indicakd thai I was ready to start. 
 
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 when the Eskimo's wife, who had been left on the 
 ship, came out on llic ice after ns. vShc sliowed at once 
 lier dis])leasnre at our breach of etiquette in deserting 
 her, and evidently wished to go along. The ICskinio de- 
 murred, and seemed anxious to know what my wishes 
 were in the matter. Noticing the woman's determina- 
 tion, and not wishing to lose m\- ride (besides being 
 the cause of domestic difficulty), I gallantly intimated 
 bv signs my conseiU and even pleasure at the lady's com- 
 ])any. In the UK-an -i.nc, while the}- were wrangling 
 with each other, the dogs had taken advantage of the 
 delay thus caused, an;l staried a fight amongst themselves, 
 getting their harness so tangled up that it required .some 
 time to put the team in running order again. Finally, 
 Mrs. Eskimo and myself got properly seated on the 
 sledge, and the dogs were started off at a lively trot, the 
 driver running longside. He controlled and guided the 
 dogs with such skill as to keep a uniform tension on the 
 traces, and occasionally, as the team increa.sed its speed, 
 would jmnp on the back part of the sledge and ride until 
 some rough ice or a strip of water interfered with our 
 progress. 
 
 Not infrequently the dogs would jump over a crack in 
 the ice, and before the sledge could be stopped it would 
 bring up against the opposite side with such a sudden 
 jar as to throw one from the seat. On such occasions 
 the driver would lift the front of the sledge, and, with a 
 few cracks of the whip, again proceed onward. When a 
 fissure was too large to be crossed in this niauncr, he 
 would follow along its side until a narrower place was 
 
'/■///•; ro )'.!(;/■: oi' /'///■: kite. 
 
 163 
 
 le 
 
 ce 
 
 foniul, over wliicli llic sk-(l<j;(.- was pushed, one end beiiiL,'' 
 allowed to rest on the ice on each side. \\\ this means a 
 bridf>;e was formed o\er which both onrschx'S and do,^s 
 crossed in safety. The Kskimo do<^s a])pear to have a 
 threat dislike for water, and would not attempt the cross- 
 ino- of any cracks so wide as to expose them to the risk of 
 fall inn; in. 
 
 As we bcji^an to encounter nnicli loose and broken ice, 
 and the travellin_i^ was ver\- rou<,di, I requested my j^nide 
 to return to the .ship. We wer° soon speedin_q; alont^ 
 o\-er a more rej^ular surface, the smooth <;lidin_t^ homeward 
 in the cold, bracin<ij air being most exhilaratiu<>-. I)\- 
 this time Madam Eskimo had quite re<^ained her temper, 
 and assisted her husband by yellin_(>; their peculiar cr\-, 
 " Ka! ka! " at the do<^s, which seemed to incite them on 
 and kept them mo\iu,g- at a lively pace. Upon our 
 arrival at the vessel the driver at once proceeded to cut a 
 couple of holes in the ice, close toj^ethcr and meetino; at 
 the bottom; the traces were then pas.scd tlirou(>;h from 
 one to the other and tied on top. The team havin^r been 
 safely secured in this manner, we went on board; the 
 doc^s howled dismally at beint; so unceremoniously de- 
 serted, but the unheedin<»- driver and his sjjouse were soon 
 on deck min^;lin,o- with the others. 
 
 The Kskimo doLjs are about two feet in heiy;ht, and 
 resemble more the wolf than the domestic do*; of our 
 countr\'. Their hair is lont;-, coarse, and oih', and the 
 head resembles that of the Pomeranian or spitz doo;, the 
 snout beinf^ pointed and the lars erect. Their le^s are 
 quite sturdy and thick, the bod\- compact and strong-, and 
 
 \ 
 
 \■A^ 
 
 mm 
 
164 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 M"' 
 
 \\ 
 
 the busily tail is carried curled over the back. In color 
 they are priucipally reddish or yellowish brown; black 
 was exceptional, while white was more common, but 
 not so generally met with as the color first mentioned. 
 
 There seemed to be a difference in type between the 
 dogs used in the south of Cireenland and those found with 
 the wild natives of the North, these latter being smaller 
 and more wolfish looking, although possessing the same 
 general characteristics. The Eskimo dogs are wild-look- 
 ing animals, and have a cowardly, sneaking expression, 
 whicli is no doubt largeh' due to their half-starved condi- 
 tion and the indifference and harshness of their masters. 
 It is only when emplo\ed in drawing the sledges that 
 they are given food in any quantity, and the hungry crea- 
 tures about the native camps are continually howling and 
 fighting among themselves. They subsist on the blubber, 
 meat, and animal refuse given to them by the natives, 
 and at no time would they touch the salt meat, bread, or 
 biscuit thrown tliem from the ship. Their fur is much 
 used by the natives for clothing. They are harnessed to 
 the sledges by means of a leather collar to which is 
 attached a line, generally of walrus-hide, about fifteen or 
 twenty feet in length. These lines, one from each dog, 
 are fastened to a heavy thong of skin between the run- 
 ners of the sledge. Five to eight dogs usually constitute 
 a team. They travel side by side, being guided only by 
 the voice of the driver and the occasional lashings of a 
 whip which is .so long and wielded with such dexterity 
 as to make them pursue any desired course. 
 
 The .sledges are from six to eight feet in length and 
 
 i 
 
THE \-OYAC.E OF THE KITE. 
 
 1 6 = 
 
 I 
 
 about two in width, the runners being eight inches high 
 and made up of fragments of wood and l^one tightly 
 bound together with strips of skin. Wood is so scarce 
 that even the smallest pieces obtainable are utilized, thus 
 causing the sledges to look like mere patchwork, 'i'he 
 runners are .shod with pieces of walrus-tusks about a loot 
 long, which are bound to each other and to the runner 
 with thongs of hide. These thongs are passed through 
 holes in the ivory and countersunk to avoid being worn 
 out in passing through the snow. 
 
 The top of the sledge is composed of pieces of wood, 
 and occasionally of bone, passing across from one runner 
 to the other, tightly bound together. These pieces ;ire 
 not placed close to one another, but at intervals of six or 
 eight inches. At the rear end of the sledge are two 
 uprights, about two and one-half feet high, connected by 
 
 si.r.D<;K. 
 
 a cross-piece, the whole forming a handle which is used 
 to guide the sledge at times, and also to lift it o\er ob- 
 structions. Coming from beneath its front, and fastened 
 to the inner sides of the runners, about a foot from their 
 
 "•BRs-l*! 
 
 i: 
 
166 
 
 /.V .lh'C77C s/:.is. 
 
 n»i' 
 
 ends, is a i>iece of thick stron.iL,^ skin. It is to tliis tliat 
 the harness of the (l<).i;s is attached wlien travellinj^. 
 
 The whole ot' the sled,!L;e is apt to l)e so covered witli 
 dirl and _^rease as to ahnost conceal its method of con- 
 struction. Those which we saw all appea^'ed to be \-ery 
 old, and had e\-idently descended from ])re\ious i^cnera- 
 lions. Here and there, in some of the:.i, were noticc-d 
 pieces which had been inserted recently. When a sledge 
 be;;ins to show the effects of the hard nsa,L;e to which it 
 has been snbjected, it chjcs not break np all at once, bnt 
 rather ^ives out in some particular place. This spot is 
 
 then mended, either by a 
 new jiicce bein^- inserted 
 or by beiny; rebound with 
 tiionj^s, and the sledge thus 
 enters (jn a new lease of 
 life. The ease with which 
 repairs can be made obvi- 
 ates the necessity of 1)uild- 
 ini; new sledi^^es, ;ind, consequently, after one has l)ccn con- 
 structed, it lasts almost for ever. Xotwitlistandin,^- their 
 clumsy and uui^rainly appearance, they <,dide over the ice 
 quite readih-, the ivory runners ofiferin^; but little resist- 
 ance. While solidly constructed, they nevertheless pos- 
 sess sufficient "^ixe and elasticity to yield to the joltini^ 
 cxjierieuced in travelling- over roui.',h and uneven ice, 
 thus making riding in them comfortable. 
 
 NATIVK niMI.I.. 
 
 ^! 
 
 J' 
 
CHAPTKR XII. 
 
 Hows ANP ArRuVS. — Sl'I.ARS AM) 11 AR I'l K )NS. — IlrNTTXC, THE 
 
 Si;ai< and W'.vi.Rrs. — Scarcitv oi- Woon,— Chii.dri.ns 
 Toys. -MiCKRv and his Doixcs. 
 
 UXTIIy our visit to these most northern I^skinios no 
 one liad e\'er observed them to jiossess either boats 
 of an\ description or Ijows and arrows; but amonj^- the 
 natives of Whale Sound we found a couple of kajaks, and 
 also a few bows and arrows. 
 
 Thev were similar in form and construction to some 
 which we afterward saw lower down, at Cape York. 
 The kajaks were of about the same size as those of the 
 
 
 "XTsr: 
 
 KAJAK AND PAnHIK. WllAl.K MUM). 
 
 Eskimos in the neighborhood of the Danish settlements, 
 but were neither so neatl\- nor so well made, being both 
 more clumsy and hea\ier. The skins of which thev 
 were built did not appear to have been so carefully jjre- 
 pared as those used by the more southern natives, the 
 hair often being allowed to remain on them in places. 
 The seams also were neither so regular nor so nicely 
 sewn, this be'ng- probabh- due to the fact that bone 
 
 U!7 
 
HMHp 
 
 1 68 
 
 AV .lk'C77C s/-:.is. 
 
 )^M. 
 
 iu-f(llcs were used, instead of steel ones. These latter 
 must have been quite rare aniouj; them, if, indeed, they 
 ]M)ssessed any at all, altliou<;h even the nali\es of Whale 
 Sound, when we j^ave them some, apju'ared to reeo^iii/e 
 and understand their use. 
 
 The bows which were obtained from the natives arc 
 (piite ]K'culiar both as rej^ards the materials of which 
 they are made and their method of construction. The\' 
 are coni])Osed, usually, of three large and four small 
 pieces of bone, boinid firmly together with an animal 
 material resembling catgut. The large bones arc the 
 ribs of the reindeer, three being used in order to make 
 a bow of suiTicient length. These are placed end to 
 end, the adjoining surfaces being cut off square, and not 
 overlapping. The two e.\tremities of the middle piece 
 thus sinij)ly rest against the inner ends of the other two 
 bones, the ])oint of junction being strengthened l)y means 
 of a thick piece of bone, al)out two inches long, below, 
 and a thin strip, about four inches long, above. The 
 whole joint is then tightly wrapped with thongs. Run- 
 
 »kks- 
 
 m iws. 
 
 ning from one end of the bow to the other, and stretched 
 tightly over the back, are a number of thongs, which in 
 the finer bows are made of plaited strands; one of them 
 
/■///•; I ■()): !(;/■: or ////■: a///-;. 
 
 i6() 
 
 liad fifU'cn of thfsc bound to the hone willi the same 
 material at inteiAals of three or four iuehes. In the 
 commoner l)o\vs the material used for hindin^ and 
 strengthening them is mueh eoarser, and e\idenlly eon- 
 sists of strips of some kind oi' skin ; one of the number 
 had only three such cords, and e\en tlujse were thick, 
 and not plaited. Another one possessed, l)esi(les the 
 usual innubcr of pieces, three additional ones. Oui' was 
 a long', thin jiicce of bone, and the others two thin strips 
 of a soft wood resembling pine. This shows the i.^no- 
 rance of the people concerning the properties of xarious 
 kinds of wood, because the use of so soft a wood for the 
 purpose of strengthening the bow could have been of no 
 .service whatever. These bows are about two feet and a 
 half long, quite elastic, and ser\e their i)urpose fairly 
 well. 
 
 The arrows are between a foot and a half and two 
 feet in length, and composed of a shaft of white pine 
 wood with a point of iron. The shaft was rather thick 
 
 l!()W-(.\Sl: AM) i.illN'l K. 
 
 and clumsy, and not infre(iuentl\-, on account of the 
 scarcity of wood of all kinds, made of two or three se])a- 
 rate pieces of wood or bone, joined together 1)\- being 
 
 .L^ 
 
17" 
 
 /A' ./A'(//C s/:.is. 
 
 PM. 
 
 luAclkHl, (iverlaiipp(l, and wound with a rnu- animal Hhro. 
 TIr' pari of the shaft that ivcriwd the how-siring was 
 llalU lud, and against thr side of onr of thf arrows was 
 l)ound a single small ffatlR'r, which, howcAcr, i-oidd 
 
 .\KU«i\V.- \VI I II ll'iM, .s|IAI'l>, 
 
 lia\f bren of little or no service in !:;nidin,i4- its llii^ht. 
 The ])resence of this feather was the oidv indication of 
 the nati\es haxin]:; any knowledge of their use in stead\- 
 inj4 an arrow on its course, and is strongly su,L;^(.'Sti\-e 
 of the bow and arrow heini; eui])lo\ed only at short 
 raui^e. The pcunts were made of iron or ivor\' from 
 
 aac 
 
 ■mumi.-sT' 
 
 JS2 
 
 rmr 
 
 AKK('\v-> -iiiiwiNT, nil >ri.iii\i; m- rwi: sii\i-r and a ^iNiai', smam, 
 
 HA I III K. 
 
 Ill 
 
 \ 
 
 three to five inches lon^- and sha]X'd like a spear-head. 
 How, in the absence of anv suitable means of healing 
 the iron, these arrow-heads were fashioned was a m\s- 
 tery to us. 
 
 On cxaminint;- the bundle of arrows wliich were ob- 
 tained from the nati\'es at Cape York, mv attention was 
 attracted b\- one which ap]X'ared to have sonu' letters u]>on 
 
////; /vir. /^/.• i^/- 1 III-: kin:. 
 
 171 
 
 it. ( )ii snapiii^ a\s;i\ the rust and diil I was asldiiishcd 
 to Sft.' tlu' words " I )r. IIa\rs, \'\\. iS^o," ])laiid\' slaiuind 
 in llic iion. Owinsj to our inal)ilil\ to utulcrstaiul or 
 
 ANIMW III.AIM Ui)M I II IIA\I> l.M'l I U 1 li i\ i .!■ iSlKi, 1 iNi;-Ki ir I: 1 11 \M I Al. 
 
 coinnuinicatc with iIk- natives, wc could not ol)tain any 
 history of this most intcMvstiiii^ relic, nor any int'ornia- 
 tion as lo lunv it came into their possession. 'IMie care 
 with whicli the\ treasure iron can he ap|)reci;fted when 
 we reniendx'r that the\- must have had this piece for o\er 
 thirt\- \ears. It had ])rol)al)l\- been made, t)rioinally, 
 iVoni an old knife or other ship's article which had been 
 marked with the explorer's name. 
 
 Their most useful huntin>; implements are spears or 
 lances and harpoons. The former, as compared to the 
 
 Sliall. 
 
 latter, are simple in construction, consistin.^ of a wooden 
 sliaft ^vith an ivorv jioint ti])iied with in)n. The shai't, 
 on account of the scarcity of wood, is sometimes made 
 up of several short pieces spliced to.^elher with the skill 
 for which the Kskimos are noted. It is shod at its ex- 
 tremity with a little cap w block of ivory strongly secured 
 
)>^' 
 
 172 
 
 //V .ih'cr/c y/:.is 
 
 by tlionos of walrus-skin. This cap has on its upper 
 surface an oval-shaped hollow or depression in which the 
 base of the ivor\- point rests. The ivor\' point is from 
 six to eiji^hteeii inches in leut^th; at its base it is about 
 lhree-([uartcrs of an inch b\' an inch and a half in size, 
 atul tapcr.s .sli<;htly to the i)oint, which is usiudly i)ro- 
 vided with a leaf-shaped (not barbed) piece of iron. 
 The base is rounded in an oval manner with a flat ed^e, 
 and fits into tlie deprcs.siou or .socket in the ivory cap. 
 
 Sl'KAK-riilNr, Allour ONK-hlXllI A( lUAI. Sl/.K. 
 
 The Disko .spear.s, on the contrary, have the socket in 
 the base of tlie ivory point. Two strong thongs of wal- 
 rus-hide pass from the jjoint to the cap, binding them 
 firmh' together. When the spear is thrust into an ani- 
 mal, the point slips off the shaft, but still remains con- 
 nected Avith it by the two thongs of skin. In this way 
 the wooden handle is prevented from being broken by 
 an\- sudden movement the animal mav make. 
 
 m 
 
 -Sl'I.AK luR .s.MAI.I. ANIMALS, ONK-IIAI.I- ACTUAL SIZK. 
 
 The harpoon is a much more intricate weapon. It is, 
 indeed, remarkable how a race so low in the scale of 
 development as the Eskimos could have devised such an 
 ingenious implement. In many respects it is unique. 
 
'/•///•; r(>):i(./:- <>/■■ ////■: kiie 
 
 173 
 
 atul sii])nsscs in cfticiL'iicy (.'wn lliv sword-l'ishcr's irnii, 
 ^vllicll it <^rc;Ul\' ivsciublfs. In iti^ciinil\' and adajjla- 
 hility for llii.' purposes to which it is put it is, pciliaps, 
 the Ijcst tliat any savaj^t- or even senii-civili/.fd race '-.as 
 prochiccd. It ha'^ e\idcutly bctMi evolved from the spear 
 just described, l)Ut is dcsi;^ned for throwinj^, and not for 
 spearin,ij. The whole apparatus consists of several dis- 
 tinct parts, which nia\- be described se])aratel\-. The\- 
 are the luirpoou itself, the harpoon-line, and the float- 
 
 c^== 
 
 ^Jrffc U 
 
 HARPOON OK THE MOST SORTIIKKN I.sKIMUS, 
 
 bajT, corresponding to the wooden cask of the sword- 
 fisher. 
 
 The harpoon is made up of a shaft and point difTerin;:: 
 in no material respect from the spear already described. 
 The point is .somewhat rounder and attached to the 
 shaft by the means already detailed, but is blunt at its 
 extremity. To it is added an extra detachable tip, 
 almost invariably shod with iron. The iron is usually 
 a piece of knife-blade, an old hoop, or other fragment 
 which has by chance fallen into the pos.session of the 
 Eskimo. This is ground with infinite labor to a point 
 and firndy riveted in a slit in the ivory. The point of the 
 liarpoou fits into a hole in the back of the tip, the ixory 
 being cut away from one of its sides in such a manner 
 that if the shaft is bent over on one side, the tip comes 
 off, but if pressed to the opposite side, the whole ivory tip 
 can be mauipidated as a single piece. To this tip the 
 
MM 
 
 h" 
 
 174 
 
 LV .lA'C'/VC s/-:.is. 
 
 line is fastened throuj^li tlie hole in the ivnr^-, as shown 
 in ihc ilhislralion. 
 
 The line, which is very slron.q-, is aliiiost alvays a 
 single ])ieee of walrns-hide, obtained by making', with 
 orrat care, a s])iial cnt coniinencin,L,r at the neek and end- 
 
 ]IAKI'iMi\-Tl|s. C.WV. ViiKK. 
 
 iiii^ near the liind flippers. This strip, freqnenth- one 
 hundred feet in lenj^th, is then twisted and worked in 
 blubber oil until perfectly pliable. The line is neatly 
 coiled up and laid on a sort of bracket or framework 
 which is erected immediately in front of the kajaker, the 
 harpoon restinj^ in leather thon!j;^s by its side. To the 
 extremity of the line is attached a float compo.sed of the 
 entire skin of a seal dressed and worked in oil. E\-er\- 
 aperture in the hide is carefulls' closed with plu,^-s of 
 i\-ory grooved so as to hold the lijTature with which the 
 skin is bound, and made absolutely air- and water-ti*;ht. 
 One, liowever, is mereh' stopjied with a wooden plui,'^, so 
 that the baj^- may be readily inflated. This bai,'- is placed 
 in a convenient position on the deck of the kajak, and so 
 arran<i;ed that, while safe from accidental disturbance, it 
 can be released instanth'. 
 
 The shaft of the harpoon is more carefulh- eonstruc'ed 
 than that of the spear, and has nrar its cud a must i ;,i;e- 
 
 h 
 
> 
 
 •-I 
 
 > 
 
 n 
 
 

IIIE lOYACE OF IIIE KITE. 
 
 175 
 
 nions lln"o\viii<; <k'\icc. This consists of a flat or nearly 
 flat piece of wood about two feet in lenj^th, which nia\- 
 
 IIARPndN (il- •111]-, DISK" NATlVI-.s. .--IIOWINC WW. IIIK^WINC MH K. 
 
 be called a handle (ir throwinc^ piece. In the end of this 
 is a hole, into which fits a curved \)Q^^ of i\-ory on the 
 shaft of the harpoon, while tlic other end is so carved as 
 to furnish a comfortable s^rasp fc>r the hand. 
 
 In nsiuij^ this iui]ilenient on a seal the kajaker <;ras]\s 
 the harpoon finnl\- in his rit^ht hand, releases his seal- 
 skin float, and with his left hand steadies the boat b\- 
 means of the paddle ]ilaeed erossv\ise on the surfice of 
 tlie water. 'I'he throwing- ]ieee is held rirnd\- in the 
 hand, while two finders onl\- <;ras]) the shaft. Raisin^,'' 
 the arm, the weapon is hurled with remarkable accuracy 
 and to a \ery .^reat distance. The handle becomes de- 
 tached and remains ^ras])ed, while the shaft reeei\-es ihe 
 whole mouKUlu.m imparted thronL;h the i\or\' lun 1)\ 
 which it is ccMUiei'ted ; the speed attained is such that 
 
 
 II \l;iiiiiN-l II'. 
 
 \ii. 
 
 one hundred feet is not an e\tr;i(>rdinar\- dislaiKe at 
 which the l^skinu) essaws the killini; nf a seal. The line 
 instanth' uncoils, the air-b.i''- iollows, and the animal is 
 
 12 
 
176 
 
 /.\' .lA'c/vc s/-:.is. 
 
 ))»b 
 
 almost iiivarial)ly secured. I)iviii<^, it seeks to escape, 
 but its first niovemeiit dislodj^es the sliaft, wliicli, witli its 
 ivory point, floats away inihariued. The ICskimo's fust 
 object is to secure this precious portion of his worldly 
 possessions. lie afterward follows the track left by the 
 
 air-bill:;-, sure that his prev 
 cainiot escape. The seal, 
 beiu,i;- unable to drat^ the 
 ba<^ beneath the water, is 
 almost certain to be captured, 
 provided the harpoon-head 
 has been secureK' fastened, 
 thoujrh many thiusts with 
 the spear nia\ be necessar\' to 
 fiualh- desp/atch the animal. 
 .An air-ba;;' similar to the one 
 shown in the illustration is 
 then attached to the carcass, and the Eskimo proceeds to 
 liunt Coy another victim. 
 
 The circumstances are quite different in hunting- the 
 walrus, which, when attacked, is one of the fiercest of 
 animals. Instead of endea\-oriut;' to escape, it almost iu- 
 \'arial)ly turns on those who dare to molest it. A kajak- 
 er never disturbs one excejjt when it is near the ed.^v 
 of an ice-floe, for the infuriated animal would destro\- the 
 frail boat and certaiid\- kill his assailant if the latter did 
 not escape to a more stable element. Like other marine 
 animals, when struck 1)\- a harpoon the walrus "sonnds" 
 or dives to llie bottom. The kajaker takes this opportu- 
 nity to reach the llou, ^alheriuL; t)U his wa)' the harpoon- 
 
 AlU KAii. 
 
'/•///•: /7))'. /^■/•; ()/■' 1 1 II-: kin:. 
 
 ^11 
 
 ts 
 y 
 
 shaft ;inil air-l)a,<4^. Arrived on llic flof, he phuils his 
 S])'.'ar finiily in llio ice, and, winding his line about it, 
 ])roceeds to "play" the walrns exactly as a scientific 
 fisherman i)la>s a trout. The walrus must come u]) to 
 breathe, and the untutored sava.^e sees to it that it can 
 onl\- arise within strikin_y^ distance from the ice; a saxa^e 
 thrust from a s])ear sends it down a.^ain, exhausted by 
 another blecdin*^ wound and a deprixation of air. I-'inally 
 it dies, cither from loss of blood or drowniii;^, and is 
 draiLji^ed (Mit with infinite labor and all the iL^ratification 
 that a triumph of intellect o\er brute strength can alTord, 
 added to the satisfaction of the capture of a most \aluable 
 prize in a cotuitr\- where blubber, hide, ixorx', meat, .-ind 
 bones arc the only thin<;s worth lixinii;- for. 
 
 In endea\-orin,i; to obtain some of these spears and 
 harpoons the natives were willinj^' enou!:;h to let us ha\e 
 the ivor\- parts, but would not on any account part with 
 the wooden shaft unless wood was j^iveii in return. 
 Thex' jirized xvood above any other material, and the 
 value of that article xvas rendered exident by the fact 
 that manx- of the spear-shafts xvere made up of a number 
 of pieces ti_nhtlx- bound together to make a single stick 
 of sulTicient leuoth. 
 
 .Vmonq; other interesting- articles ol)tained fn.m these 
 Cape York natives xvere a bone thimble, some childrcirs 
 tovs made of ix'orx', and tokens or charms xxorn by the 
 adults. Tlie bone thimble resembled our nielal ones, 
 and had evidently been made for sexvin^ xvitli ordinary 
 steel needles xvhich had ])robabl\- been obtained from 
 .some visitiiiP' whaler. The native needle is a thin flat 
 
•'^^■■■■•Riiiaiiai 
 
 )»M^ 
 
 178 
 
 /.\- .IA\/7C s/:.is. 
 
 T()\S MADl': <)1' l\<»l<\', ACIIAI, ^l/K 
 
 si,i-.iii;i:s. 
 
 11 r MAN 1 naKKS. 
 
 /•^*w-'^*^'?^35l^^-.^^, 
 
 '^v«. 
 
 -i:.\i.. 
 
 
 lliKi 
 
 .<Jil 
 
 111 \K. 
 
'/■///•; I ■() ).!(,/■: (>r 'iiir: kin-: 
 
 i7<) 
 
 jM'fcc ofboiK' :il)()iU fotu" inches lotii; and an cijq;lilli of an 
 incli broad, with an c'\x' in llic end. In nsin:^ thcst.', of 
 conrsf, no lliiniblc is ncctssary, as tlK\- arc grasped in 
 
 i;r'/ ~ \w ' i|; •• 1:1 11 i;m \i;i k. 
 
 tlic liand and tliuist lliron_L;li llic s]<in instc'ad of hianj:; 
 pushed with the lin^fr. 
 
 'IMk- Ions \wrc small ])i(.-c<.s ol i\-or\ or hone, an inch 
 or Iwo lon;^, cut lo rcsLinl)U' a seal, licar, do^, or i\cn a 
 person. 
 
 Another lo\ w.is coni])osed ot a Hal jiieee of i\or\' 
 al)out three iiudies loni; with two holes near the centre. 
 A leather cord w.is passi.'d thron.^h 
 these lioles and the ends t^rasped 
 in each hand; on twisting the 
 cord and then ])nllinj; its ends 
 the ])iece of i\-or\ was made to 
 .s])in around rapidl\', first one wa\- 
 and tlien another, jnst as do 
 onr l)o\s witli a round hox-lid 
 and string- in tlu' iu\-enile ini- 
 ])lement comnionK known as a 
 "buzz saw." A more coni])licated 
 to\' consisted of a piece ol ivor\ 
 a1)out four inches lon'> and an inch in diameter, with a 
 
 ■|<'S' I "K I \'V \Mi|;\l.l. 
 
 (;\Mi . 
 
 \\ 
 
mmmmm 
 
 ■RIHI 
 
 I So 
 
 /x .lA'c'/vc s/:.is. 
 
 h' 
 
 cavil\- in its upper cxtrcinily. To this pit'ct- was attached, 
 1)\- a cord, a smaller one, pointed atone end and binnt at 
 the other. (iraspin<; the smaller piece in the hand, the 
 larj^er one was thrown in the air and an attempt made 
 to catch the pcjint of the pin in the hole in the top. 
 This, of course, is similar to our common cup-and-ball 
 
 M' 
 
 ill|!l? 
 
 J: 
 
 ... I 
 
 CIIAKMS. 
 
 toy, the only dilTcrencc 1)cin,<:;- in havin.ii;- the pointed pin 
 instead of a ball. 
 
 The children of the natives in Whale vSonnd, further 
 north, also had toys similar to those obtained by us at 
 
'/•///•; ro )■.!(,/■: or ////•; a///;. 
 
 iSi 
 
 Cai)c York. Soiik' of tlu' adults woiv \aii()us articles 
 madf of ])()iK' or ixory sus|)in(k'(l 1)\ a cord around the 
 neck. One of lliese was rndeh' shaped like a man; 
 others consisted of the tt eth of various animals; while one 
 of tile most elaborate was composed of a piece of ivorv 
 shaped as shown in the aicompanx int^ illustration, a 
 small stone, and three lar^e _^lass heads. These ni'ck- 
 laces were not used simph' as ornaments, hnl rather as 
 cliarnis, for their owners appeared to value them (piile 
 hi}^lil\", and only parted with them reluctanth". The 
 Cape York natives e\ idently see white men at limes, as 
 more e\idences of iron and wood were lound here than 
 further north, and the possession of an old and rnst\' .^tin, 
 stamped witli the name ol a whale-ship to which it had 
 l)elon,t;e(l, was found amon,i; their effects on shore. W'e 
 o^a\e tliem one of our .^nns and some ammunition in ex- 
 chan.y^e for a kajak, a sledge, and some narwhal-horns. 
 Needles, knives, and hits of iron were rapidly exchanned 
 for ivor\-, spears, and lesser curios. Wood for makinsj^ 
 sledsjes and the framework of their skin boats seemed 
 
 even more desired bv them than iron, and the small fra.i^- 
 mcnts of wood of which manv of their implements were 
 constructed showed how limited was their supply of this 
 necessary article. 
 
 The last tiling obtained from the natives in the way 
 of tradint^ was a vouul;- b'skimo doi;. This was exidently 
 prized very highly by them, and was only parted with 
 
IS2 
 
 /A' .IA'i//C S/:.tS. 
 
 >jM^ 
 
 I t 
 
 afUT iiiiK'li barlciiii!^. ( )iU' of llic u:ili\L'S walkrd out 
 (111 iIk' itx' to iIr' sliip, lioldiiij; llu- piipp)' in Iiis amis, 
 IIk'U, raisiiiL; il ii]>, iiidiralcd llial il was soiiU'tliiu^ \alM- 
 al)k', and waiilfd to kimw wlial wc wmild L;i\i.'. I .^ni 
 one of iIk' sailors lo nu^otiak- for it, ami al last, aftt-r rr- 
 ftisiii,!:; scwral jiicccs of iron, he was ollired a lirokeii oar 
 and iIk- lid of a soa])-l)o\; this indnccd him to part with 
 il, and lir walked off in irininph with his wooden ae(inisi- 
 lioiis, while I retained possession of the pii]). ( )n exaiii- 
 ininj4 ni\' ])rize I found him to he a dirty white, woolly 
 little animal with a blaek ])aleli on the side of his head; 
 he was ahont ten or tweKe inehes loii.n', chnl)l)\' and fat, 
 with a ])eaked nose, ereet c'ars, and bright dark eyt-s. 
 lie had sharp little teeth, and, as nearh' as we oonld 
 estimate his aue, was ahont eii^lit or ten weeks old. lie 
 was stowed below with the sailors in the forecastle, and 
 tliere (.■nlertaiiied and fed. His first diet was condensed 
 milk and oatmeal. He soon became ac(|nainted with his 
 surroniuliniLiS, and be^an excursions on his own account. 
 Directint; liis attention lo the steps leadiniL;- from the fore- 
 castle np to the deck, it was not Ioiil; before lie succeeded 
 in making;- liis way lo the less restricted and li<;litcr 
 rejj^ioiis abo\e. 
 
 Arriving' on deck, a fresh field was open for his iiu'cs- 
 ti<4,ation. The first rcsnlls were made known to ns by 
 seeing- him come ambling back toward the after ])art of 
 the ship, where se\-eral of ns were silling-, his nose covered 
 with blood and hi.s woolly bod\- fnll of feathers. A search 
 was immediately instituted to discover wdiat he had been 
 at. The cause was soon found. In the bow of the ship 
 
 I i: 
 
■Jill-, ro): !(,/■: o/- ////•; av/a', 
 
 i«3 
 
 were scon tlii' niaii^kd iciiiaiiis of SLwnil liij^hly-pri/td 
 >ln.cMiiKiis of birds ohlaiiiLcl hy rrofissor IIoll. ( )ii dis- 
 covfiiu;; his less, tlir piofissor was souii. wliat clia<4riiK'(l, 
 l)ul bore his niisfortnin-wilii i)hiloso])hic fortitudr. IIa\'- 
 
 •• Ml' M \. 
 
 in<^ oiKX- tasted hlood, Micke\- (for so tlic Ivskimo calkd 
 him. and \\v did likfwisri (.'oiuiinu'd to ]>insiK' his saii- 
 oninary wa\'; iucU'cd, liis tastes enlarged to such an t\- 
 tcut tliat he soon ate not only all the birds, ducks, and 
 other fresh animal food that he could ^et hold of, h '.l 
 also ]iotatnes, bread, biscuits, and, in fact, an\thinL;- that 
 he could swallow, 'riiinj^s that he could not worr\- down 
 he contented himself with chewini;. T'nder this list 
 came such articles as boots, shoes, clothing-, ropes, and 
 tvervthinsiclsc above decks that was notcarefulhuuarded. 
 
 ni«M tt 
 
IHi 
 
 184 
 
 Av .lA'cr/c s/:. is 
 
 )\^y 
 
 Tlie actual limit of his appt-tite, like that of the ICskinio 
 of whom wc have already spoken, was never definitely 
 ascertained. He would eat and eat nntil apparently 
 doible his ordinary size, and still appear to be as fam- 
 ished as ever. On the voyaj^e home Mickey well earned 
 his passajj^e. In the words of the famons Artemus Ward, 
 he was an " amoosin cnss. " His playfulness and good- 
 nature made him a favorite in both forecastle and cabin. 
 The ship's cat and he also became great friends, and 
 played quite amicably together. He was a true puppy 
 through and tluough, and though born and reared in a 
 region of perpetual ice and snow, was just as playful and 
 interesting as any in warmer lands. He increased rapid- 
 ly in size, intelligence, and activity, and, as the pet of 
 all, received an amount of attention that woidd certainly 
 have been lacking had he remained in his Arctic home. 
 
 !\ 
 
 • t \ 
 
V m 
 
 chai'Ticr XIII. 
 
 AscnxniNC. THK Ikon Mdintains. -( iUi;i:m,.\m> Cii.AfiKKS. — 
 Ac.AiN ON OIK WAV lIoMi;.— Tiiuorc.ii Wak-ai'i: Ciian- 
 NHi,. — A (iLOKiui'S SiNsirr.— Shakchinc. i'ok Coai, Di: 
 
 POSITS. 
 
 As time was passinjj^ rapidly, wc were anxious to start 
 - on our way south, and only awaited better weather. 
 The last day of our stop at Cape York was misty and 
 rainy. Nevertheless, Professor Heilprin determined to 
 utilize it in ascendin<j^ what are known as the Iron Moun- 
 tains. On the map they are desij^nated as mountains, 
 thou.o;h it is very doubtful whether thc\- reaeh to an alti- 
 tude of two thousand feet. They were disco\ered by 
 Ross. He found the natives in the possession of rudely- 
 fashioned iron implements, some of whieh are still i)re- 
 servcd in the Hritish Museum. From what information 
 he could ,<,'^ather from the natives Ross was convinced 
 that the\' themselves had manufactured the iron from 
 masses found in the mountains back from the coast. It 
 .seems hiji^hly improbable that tliis primitive race should 
 have discovered the art of iron-makinfj, but, so far, it has 
 been impossible to account for the iron on any other 
 theory; for there is no known communication of the 
 dwellers in the southern part of Cireenland with those 
 above Melville Hay, and the whalers had not, at the time 
 of Ross's visit, commenced to make the perilous voyaj^e 
 
MaaUiAMtiiMiUuaiUi 
 
 iS6 
 
 /.\' ARCTIC SF.AS. 
 
 >i*' 
 
 lo Lancaster Sound. In view of tlic relic of the Hayes 
 expedition already referred to, which had been preserved 
 for over thirty years, it did n.ot seem to us ini])ossible 
 that the iron iniplenients wliich Captain Ross found in 
 their possession were made from fraiL^nients of iron found 
 on wreckage which had floated to their shores and been 
 l)atlere(l inlo shape by the aborij^incs. On account of 
 this uncertainty we were anxious to disco\er whellier 
 an\' trace of iron manufacture existed, and the inter- 
 est was re(lou1)le(l wlien, in a skin tent, was found a 
 liea\"\' sloue evidenth' containing iron. While it prosed 
 to l)e ou]\- a form of iron ])\riles of very ]")0()r quality, it 
 slill srenicd to indicate the presence of the metal, and 
 the natives, when (|ueslioued as to its ori.t^in, nudonbl- 
 edly pointed to the hi.^h laucl l)ack from the coast. In 
 spile of tile cold, (lri\inL; rain and sleet-storm, it was 
 determiued to ascend the mountains. The j^eolo^ist and 
 botanist with two Ivskimos constituted the exi)loriu'j;- 
 parly, the rest preferrini;- the comfort of the shi]:)\s cabin 
 rather than face the disa^i^reeable weather outside. 
 
 Reachiu!:; the shore by crossing over the ice, the little 
 partN' rapidly ascended a small knoll which marked a 
 spur of the mountain, and bes^an to climb over irre_i,rular 
 rocks covered with a black and slippery lichen. The 
 ascent soon bec;une very difficult, j^reat boulders block- 
 'wv^ the wa\- and compellin.tj detours where the footinj^ 
 was most insecure. The s<orm soon chan.i;ed to a mix- 
 ture of snow and sleet wdiich raged with all cIk" fury of a 
 j^ale and at intervals obscured the surroundings. Occa- 
 sional ;;limpses (M' the ship, lying peacefully at anchor in 
 
 
'I I IF. ro):i(;/-: of tuf kitf. 
 
 187 
 
 the Utile cove f;ir below, served as a <;ni(le to their course, 
 and as greater heights were reached, the tops of three 
 small islands which laid about ten miles off the coast, 
 south of Cape York, came into \iew. Contrarx to the 
 experience at McCorinick I5a\-, the ascent became easier 
 as the t(jp was neared, not so much, however, from the 
 lessening of the steep grade of tlu- mountain as on ac- 
 count of the better footing. The black lichen disap- 
 peared, as did also the Uu'ge glacier-worn boulders, and 
 in their stead were hard granite rocks and liner ]K-bbles. 
 (rradually almost all \egetation disappeared, and soon 
 a comparati\'ely lex'el plain of stonc-s and small rocks 
 was reached, eas\- ])rogress iIku bring made. The 
 height indicated bv ihr aneroid barometer was about 
 se\enteeu hundred feet. Xo sign of iron or iron-brar- 
 ing rock was obscrxed. Tlie stones were of (.wry \ari- 
 et\-, from slate and sandstone to the hardc>t Hint and 
 grar.ite, and had ex'idenlly been swept to their position 
 by glacier action alone. Xear th" crest was found a 
 small cairn. It seemed to ha\e been built b\ human 
 hands, but whether cix'ili/.ed or sawige it was impossible 
 to determine. In sjtite of the storm, which now had 
 redoubled in \iolence, the two \\hite men pressed on 
 alone, for [he l'",skinu)S had refused to eoulinue up to the 
 crest, and had seemed to iudicile 1)\- their crie> ami mo- 
 tions that it was dangerous lo do so. Tlie\' ne\er \-en- 
 ture ii!i.o the interior, nor e\-en visit the ice cap, as to 
 them it is the abiding-place of e\il spirits and demons, 
 and inspires them with terror. The ice cap, which did 
 not differ in any particular, as fir as could b- seen, from 
 
"!)"<nimi«nipimpii«iimi>P)M0i 
 
 1 88 
 
 /.\' .lA'c/vc s/:. IS. 
 
 )\hi 
 
 tliat at McConnick Ray, was soon readied, and from it 
 two ,L,daciers were seen projeclinjj^ into tlie sea. 
 
 The method of the formation of the (rreenland glaciers 
 was here achnirably ilhistraled. As far as the eye could 
 reach, to tlie north, the north-east, and north-west, lay 
 an almost le\-el sheet of ice, the jiroduct of centuries of 
 winters. This covered all the natural inequalities of the 
 .ground, and ser\ed as the ,t;reat source of supply for all 
 the <;lav"iers of the coast. It is onl\- where spurs of land 
 run to the sea, similar to the one that was ascended, that 
 the underl\in<4' rock is visible, and even this is partially 
 covered by the del)ris left 1)\- the retrcatin,^- ice sheet. In 
 reality, all (rreenland ma\- be said to be one "^reat glacier, 
 and the tliousands of so-called glaciers, many of which 
 are twenty or more miles across their face, arc merely 
 ])rolongations to the water's edge of this enormous mass 
 of ice and snow. 
 
 It was useless to press onward, for the sleet obscured 
 almost all natural features, and a retreat was made down 
 what had e\identl\- been an ancient glacier-bed. but was 
 now covered with ;i heav\- growth of moss and other veg- 
 etation. Here the botanist found a rich assortment of 
 plants as a reward for his labors and the disagreeable 
 weather that had buen encountered. Large patches of 
 red snow were crossed, and hnall\- the beach was attained 
 near the s])ur, on the opposite side of which the ship was 
 anchored. Here was found an immense natural harbor, 
 the cliffs rising perpendicularly to a great height, forming 
 a natural basin with a contracted entrance. The spur of 
 land was crossed witli some difiicidt\-, and the ship reached 
 
riir: loy.ic.r. of riii-: kiii:. 
 
 189 
 
 after nearl\' four lionrs of couslanl hut interestins; toil. 
 Tlic object of llie trip, tlie discovery of irou or iron-bear- 
 iuj^- rocks, was not accomplished, hut a far more satisfac- 
 tory kno\vled<^e of the natural confi<^uration of the <;rouiul 
 was obtained tlian w(Mild ha\e been possil)le by ol^serv- 
 in.o; it from the decks of the ship; a quantity of valuable 
 material was also <;athercd. 
 
 vSoon after the return of the mountain party the ship 
 was prepared to start. The fo,t;-, which had been almost 
 constant duriuo oursta\- of ada\- and ;i half, at last li.^ht- 
 ened, and now and then, throu<;h occasional rifts in the 
 clouds, open water could be seen to the southward. The 
 few lint;erin<;- natixes were told to leave the \essel, and 
 it was only as the ice-anchors were brought aboard that 
 the last one reluctantly wended his way over the side. 
 " Sar-pook, sar-pook"' (j^ood-by, ^ood-byi, they cried, 
 as we slowly left their dreary home, nnsterious people 
 of a mysterious land. 
 
 In sharp contrast l(» the lout; struyj^le northward 
 throu<>h Melville Bay was our southern trip oxer the 
 same waters. On the northern journey we had encoun- 
 tered a \'ast and rdmost continuous .--lieel ot ice, which 
 seemed as iiermanent as the eternal hills. On the south- 
 ern trip we found open water, with only an occasional 
 iceberiL;' to remind us of iIk- threat floes and ice masses we 
 had met with a few weeks before. Constant foj^; and 
 head winds, howex'er, delaxi'd the vessel, and our prog- 
 ress was particularly sloxv. \\\- ran well out from laud, 
 but still in xiexv of the hii^her headlands. The Horse's 
 Head, a most peculiarlx- shajied jjoinl of land, and Red 
 
'^mmmm 
 
 m 
 
 190 
 
 /.v .ik'cnc s/c.is. 
 
 lii^ 
 
 Head, another conspicuous jioint, were the only ones 
 definitely recognized until Devil's Thumb was reached. 
 We had hoped to land and examine the latter curious 
 formation, but no attempt was made on account of the 
 storm incss of the weather. Upernavik was passed at 
 midni'^ht; we did not stop, but continued on our way 
 down the coast. 
 
 The next da\- found the atmosphere still thick, with 
 a heav\- sea runnin*;', and the shi]) was hove to all the 
 afternoon in the neij^hborhood of Kaui;tok Island, which 
 is west of vSwartehnk Peninsula. 'I'his ^reat and almost 
 unknown body of land lies north of Disko Island. The 
 impossibilitv of making iiroyress ai:.;aiust the hea\'>' wind 
 and sea tem]ited Ca]itain Pike to enter a fiord on the 
 vSwartehuk in search of easy anchora.ne. The fiord is un- 
 marked on the map except bv dotted linrs, and it was 
 a.^reed that we would name it " Pike h'iord " in honor of 
 our veteran commander. lis entrance is about two miles 
 wide and ])roli.'CU-d from tile sea 1)\' a small island which 
 (li\ides it into two passaL;es; tlnomjh cither of these a 
 ship can easil\- enter. Inside of this natural harbor is a 
 wide, rout^hl\- irregular bax , protected on both sides by 
 hi,nii moinitains, to whose bk-ak, dark si(Us the peninsula 
 owes its name. Here we tbund a ;^oo<l anchoraLje in 
 tweutx' fithoms of water, the bottom heim; mud mixed 
 with sand. The wind still blew fierceh', but as the ship 
 was now safe, we delermiued to remain until it moder- 
 ated. Some went ashore, and wire well repaid for the 
 rather ronL;h j)assa!L;e across tin.' l)av. A ri\'er wa-- found, 
 empt\ Iul; into the upper end of the I'lord; here a landing 
 
 ' I 
 
'1111-: ]\)yAc.E OF Till': kite 
 
 iqr 
 
 was efTccted without difficulty, and a general exploration 
 began. 
 
 Flowers ^rew on ever\- side in the greatest abundance 
 and beauty. There were evident signs of game, and 
 hunters and naturalists alike trudged off in search of 
 specimens. The land rose rather abruptly, and within 
 half a mile of the beach the river was found to be rush- 
 ing through a narrow, rugged gorge, making a series of 
 cascades of surpassing beauty as it leaped from rock to 
 rock and fell into a jiool beneath. Having seen at (lod- 
 havn some salmon-trout which had been caught 1)\- the 
 natives, one of our companions essa\ ed fly-fishing. The 
 water was icy cold, and no sign of animal or vegetable 
 life was to be seen in its depths; h()we\-er, he whip])e(l the 
 stream industriously wifh. various flies and e\en the na- 
 ti\-e mosquito, which was there a large and li\ely pest. 
 but without success. 
 
 Farther up the river again widened, and a large plain. 
 lying between the frowning mountains, apjteared. Here 
 also a rich harvest of flowers was gathered, and cwr\' 
 once in a while a beautiful ptarmigan would be slartt.(l. 
 Several of the latter were shot. They seeiut-d \er\ hold, 
 and did not hesitate to scold the hunter \ig(irousl\- for 
 intruding on their dom; lU, showing that they were sel- 
 dom if e\cr disturbed \^\ man. A diligent but uua\;iil- 
 iug search was made for iht-ir ne.t<, and a lew co\e\ s ot 
 \oung birds were seen at a distance; they werr lully 
 fledged and mueli more timid than the older birds. Two 
 of the hunters a>eeiided the mouulain. but found nothing 
 of consequence to reward their toil. .Mr. Keneal\- and my- 
 
 m 
 
'W"'WV»i.»!pi»»i)i!U'I^PIf 
 
 192 
 
 AV .Ih'i'/'/i.' S/i.lS. 
 
 \W 
 
 I < < 
 
 self went for some (lislaiici- aloii^ the sliore, fiiidins^- an 
 al)an(lone(l lint and j^cttinj; a distinet \ieNv of a <;laeier 
 whieli, as nsnal, elosed the end of the fiord. Xo si,misof 
 till' reeent \isit of Ivskinios wen.- present. A (kep i^looni 
 ]>er\-aded this nnfrt'ipiented spot, whieh neither the birds 
 nor the (lowers relie\ed. The hi^h eliffs were almost 
 hlaek in line, either from the natural eolor of the roeks 
 or the dark lieheiis, and a few j;listenin<^- white iceherins 
 served only to iiiteiisif\- the deserted appearanee of the 
 land. 
 
 Some time (InriniLC '•l'^' ni_i;ht the weather moderated, 
 and, making- our way out of Pike's iMord by the sontli- 
 ern eiitranee, our course was shaped for the Waii^ate 
 Channel, which was reached on the morning' of the Sth 
 of An^nsl. We entered this channel, instead of sailing- 
 outside, in i)rder to examine the shores for evidences of 
 coal deposits which were said to exist there. This sheet 
 of water .seixirates Disko Island from the mainland, and 
 is about .se\en miles wide. At one time it was nndonbt- 
 edly a fiord, bein^ cut thron,i;li to Disko Uixy at a later 
 jieriod by ^lacier action, therebN- forming- the largest 
 known island in (ireeiiland. To the north of the island, 
 and extending- from the mainland far into the .sea, is a 
 neck of land known as the Xoursook reninsnla. Uotli 
 sides of the Wai^ate Channel present the same geograph- 
 ical outline, lu're and there small fiords and indentations 
 characterizint; its .shores. Ili.^h monntains tower abo\e 
 the calm and jtlaeid waters, and the silence is only 
 disturbed by falling; fragments of glaciers. The ontline 
 of the monntains is much more broken and irregular 
 
 J 
 
/■///•; /())■./(;/■; o/- ////■; a///;. 
 
 'V3 
 
 :•! 
 
 \ 
 
 I 
 
 than is thai of the iiiountaiiis of inou' iiotthoni (iiwu- 
 laiul, and the peaks ami iiiiniaL-k's add j^ivallN' to its ,L;iaii- 
 dc'Ur. Tlic loft\- nionnlaii!-lo|)S, partly coNi'iid wilh 
 snow, seen in the heaulifnl, clear weather and warm Arc- 
 tic snnlij^ht, more resend)le(l Alpine scenery than is nsnal 
 in the lMi_i;id Zoni'. On all sides the many and heauti- 
 fnl iceI)er.!4S, nllectin^' the rays of the snn, seemed to \ ie 
 with the nioinitains in their <;()r!:;eons si)len;lor. 
 
 All day lonj;- the AV/r steamed slowh' thron^h this 
 enchantinj^ scener\-, hut it was only late at ni^ht that 
 the most beautiful and interestin.^ ])henomenon of all 
 presented itself to view. At this staj^a' of our \()\a,L;e 
 the sun in its declination had perceptihh' diminished the 
 lii^ht of nis^ht, and though not yet helow the horizon, 
 still descended enou.i;h to drop beh.ind the hi.nh nu)un- 
 tains of the Noursook Peninsula, thereby niakiu!:;- a most 
 glorious sunset. The briiL^ht ra\s illumined the sky be- 
 hind the mountains, forming a backj^ronnd o\ the most 
 brilliant colorings and delicate, changing tones. The 
 fading of the sunlight continued but a short time, and 
 the sim, again rising higher, o'ertopped the uu)nntains, 
 and the dawn of the next morning was upon us. The 
 gradual merging of the lo\el\' sunset with the splendor 
 of the coming morn completed this most charminjL; (^'( 
 da\s in Circcnland. 
 
 The fine weather, which continued the next da\-, 
 added to our enjoyment. We had had almost a week 
 of fog before reaching; the W'aigate, but there were few 
 regrets now for the delax-, as, had we experienced the 
 same weather inside the channel as hail fallen to our lot 
 
194 
 
 /.\' .iA'(.//c s/:.is. 
 
 iiil. 
 
 on the open sea, the ])eauly of our snrr()nn(Hnp;s would 
 liave l)een sliut out from \ir\v. The seenery of llie 
 mountains, althoni^Ii not so iniposini:; as that of the 
 previous da\-, was liei^htened by the iuereased number 
 and maj^nifieeneu of tht- ieeber^s. As the ship wt)nld 
 sh)wly wend its way throu<;li the narrow ehannels be- 
 tween them (so elose to^etlier were they), we could see 
 many miniature cascades fallini; o\er the sides. The 
 warm sun, melting- the snow on their tops, formed small 
 lakes or reservoirs, the overflow of which, tricklinj; down. 
 
 '*^j. 
 
 U'n;i:K(; in \v \ii;a ri; i iianm.i., 
 
 .1 
 
 fell into the sea. The course of the AV/r was now 
 directed close alon,t; the eastern shores of Disko Island, 
 in order that a <i"oo(l view could be had o( its rock\' sides. 
 At times, when its _^eolo_i>ieal formation indicated the 
 ])ossible presence of ct)al, one of the ship's boats would 
 take the ueolouist ashore for a closer insi)eclion; l)Ut no 
 
 : 
 
 I 
 
/•///•; I ()). !(,/■: ()/■• nil', kiif.. 
 
 195 
 
 cnrboiiiferons fossils wciv fouiKl. vSooii llu- slu)n.'-lim' 
 b(.-i;aii to assmiR' a iiioiv k\i'l aspict, and a loiij;-, slich'- 
 ini^f beach was discoxcR'd di'ad alirad. As the wakT was 
 noticed to l)c' shoalinj:;- rapidly the ship's head was Inrncd 
 out into the channel; bnt it was too late: she had hardly 
 answered her helm beU • we j^ronnded. 'I'he en.tjines 
 were at once put hard astern, bnt to no jnirpose: the k'ilr 
 was last aj^ronnd. The lead-line slu)we(l less than three 
 fathonrs of water and a bottom of hard white sand. Here 
 we were, bexond the reacli of an\' assistance, with so 
 little coal and ballast that e\en were it possible to re- 
 ino\e it, the ship wonld only ha\-e been lightened a few 
 inches. < )nr sitnation was indeed a critical one, and 
 preparations were ininiediateh- made to work the \essel 
 off. An anchor with a \o\\\^ hawser was taken in a 
 whale-boat and dropped some distance astern; the other 
 e.xtrcmity bein^- attached to the steam-winch on the ves- 
 sel, an eflbrt was made, by windint^ np the line, to ])nll 
 the ship into dee]X'r water, but after se\'eral futile at- 
 tempts this was abandoned. We were trnh' fast, and 
 our onl\- hope of escape la\' in the possibility that we 
 had grounded at low water, and the risin<4- tide would 
 float us off. 'IMie mate was sent ashore to ascertain the 
 condition of the tide, and he returned with the grateful 
 intormation that il wa> a cou]>le of feet below his^h-water 
 mark; so we waited for its risiui^ before niakinj^' an\' 
 further ctTorts. This was the Inst niislia]i that had oc- 
 curred to us on our return trip, aiul some of the nu)re 
 su]>erstitions sailors atlribtiltd it to tln' pres(.-uce of the 
 h'.skimo skulls which had been obtained further north. 
 
I1ULI11IUM*- 
 
 I ,c> 
 
 AV .IA'C7/C s/:.is. 
 
 if' 
 
 lk'> 
 
 Whik' wailiii)^'-, we oljscrwd, from ihf dfck of the ship, 
 soiiK.' siuuUc arisin.^ from a lint situated on a point of 
 land opposite to where we had j^ruunded. In a few 
 minutes several natives were seen eomin.u^ down to the 
 beach, having evidently made the smoke to attract our 
 attention and let us know of their ])resencc; lainiching 
 their kajaks and <;ettini; in, they paddled rapidK' toward 
 us, and were soon aboard. We found them to be native; 
 from the settlement of (iodiuu n who were there on a 
 linntinm' expedition. Hy sif;ns they <;ave us to under- 
 .stand that the tide would soon rise and float the sliij); 
 this aided in relievinj^- our anxiety somewhat on that 
 score. They o^reedily de\oured some food that was ,i;iven 
 them, and afterward, on beinj^ shown a ])iecc of coal, in- 
 dicated that they knew what it was and where some 
 could be found. As we had considerable time \et to 
 wait for the rising- tide, a few of us went ashore, accom- 
 panied by one of the natives who had si,ii^nified his will- 
 ingness to act as guide and show us where the dejiosit 
 was located. Professor Heilprin and the nalixe started 
 out to search for it, while the rest of us stayed along the 
 shore and awaited their return. The land at this point 
 rose gradiudly from the water's edge for a distance of 
 about three miles, the beach being composed of sand 
 and gravel. As one advanced inland the surface became 
 rougher, being covered with rocks and boulders. We 
 found .some ptarmigan which were quite tame and ran 
 slowly away as they were approached. A number of 
 foxes also were seen, but they were more sh\-, and dis- 
 appeared in the crevices and holes in the rocks as we drew 
 
////; i()):i(,/:- ()/■■ ////■: a///,-. 
 
 197 
 
 iK'ar. Ill two or three lioiirs the professor returiud. stat- 
 iii.t; that lii> iiueslioation had not l)een ver\- salistactorw 
 He li.id travelled two or three miles inland and found 
 some eoal, hut it was of so jx.or a eharaeter, in Mieli 
 small amounts, and so iuaceessihle as to render tlie de- 
 posit of little value. Ily this time we saw that the erew 
 had snceeedid in ,t;ettiii- tlie vessel off. and she was 
 steam in-- to deeper waters; so we .i^ot aboard, and the 
 A'//r once more started on her \ova<'-e. 
 
 . i 
 
 .'I 
 
>i»' 
 
 ciiArrisR xi\'. 
 
 At (i(ti)ii \VN oNcp; Mmui;. .Mi;t;:()KITi.s. 'I'm; I.anhoi' I)i:s(> 
 
 I.ATloN. -'rAKINC. (IN liAI.I.AM. I ).\ 11 1 1, Ol'ICS SlvA . Nli.ll'r 
 
 Hi'.c.iNS. <)i'i' Tin; Coast ••!■ I.Ar.KAiinK, Ai'i'itoxi. iiim; 
 St. jdiiN's. i)ru Ri;Li;i'rii)x. A Ki;\ii;\\ oi- iiii; Tkip. 
 
 STlvXMIXd aioniid iIr- south-eastern extremity of 
 Disko Island, wi- entered the fiord on whieh (iodhavii 
 is situated. As we were ncarini:^ the settlement Inspector 
 Andersen passed us in his lar^e boat, rowed by eit^ht or 
 ten natives. He was leaving (lodhavn to make his 
 annual visit to the adjacent settlements, which were under 
 liis supervision. Ik- wa\ed us a friendly farewell, hut 
 <lid not stoji, ami in the earl\- moruiu!:;- of Au.^ust loth 
 the l\il(- once more dropped anchor in the harbor of (iod- 
 ha\ii. Mr. Carsteus soon came out to the ship and 
 heartih- welcomed us. He told us that the lonjj; south- 
 west storm which we had encountered, followed by 
 hea\'>' winds, had also been e\peri<.nced at Citjdhaxu, and 
 that he and his associates had both feared that it would 
 be too much for the l\il(\ and that lhe\- would never see 
 US a,t;ain. 
 
 The natives too came aboard, but, after our experi- 
 ences with the al)ori^inal race further north, ihcv scarceh' 
 interested us, and the few tritles the\- had t) sell bronyjht 
 them but little return. 
 
1 1 
 
 I I 
 
 rill. /VM', \i.i: ('/• ////■; a///;. 
 
 'W 
 
 Tlir Kill was tnn'id to takr ou ballast at this port, lor 
 the- c'oiisiniiptioii ol I'oal and llic it.iiio\al ol llif i lllcts ot' 
 the I'laiN' i>aily had so 'iyJitiiRil lur as to riiuki luT 
 ahnost iintnaiiaj^cahk' in a laad wind and sta. A iiniii- 
 l)i.-r of the- iiati\is wltl- t.ii.L;a,m(l to i,;atlKT l)alla>l lor lis, 
 and it was I'vidt'iil, iVoiii ihr kisuiily iiianiur in whic-h 
 i1k\- sit aI)out it, that wc would ha\c' lo ii'iuaiii at Uasl 
 two da\s in ])oil, This iuas was, Iiowcait, wikonu' to 
 all, lor altiT our lout; isolation lAiii (iodhavn looked likt- 
 hoiiK', and wt.' were t'onleiil to mjoy the ]ika:-aiU (.'oni- 
 panioiishi]) oi" the offieials. Th'- naturalists were soon on 
 their collecting lours, some to the Rid I\i\er, and some 
 to the island of ("iodha\n. Professor 1 leilprin, accom- 
 panied !)}• Mr. Ashhuisl, nired a lar.^e nati\e boat or 
 
 t\ll \l< ilR \Vi 'M \N ^ lii i.\ r. 
 
 umiak, with its crew of se\in I'.skimos, and started for 
 I'xilak, a desolate piece of land some twent\-loiir miles 
 
2<)<) 
 
 /.y . I AU '.'■/(■ S/:' IS. 
 
 )i' 
 
 rmiii ( ii)(llia\n, wluTc was said lo he {hv remains of a 
 iiK-U'inik'. This s(i-(.-all(.-(l iiutcoritc consists of an a^i^ie- 
 !:^alinii 1)1" iiuiiR-ious in;is>(.> of iiearis- pure iroi; which are 
 found inih(.-dded in the hasallic rock. Thi.' larj^ot Irai;- 
 nunl was ri-nio\ad se\-eral \ears a^o hy a special expedi- 
 tion sent out fortlie pin'])ose 1)\- the Swed.ish ^<i\-ernnii.iit. 
 'riie wl)ole liad heen esliniateil lo ]ia\e wei.^Iied p>. Joo 
 pounds. vSeseral smaller fragments were known to exist, 
 and it was thotiuhl hit;hl\' desirahle to recowr >onie of 
 these if it was ])ossil)le to do so. 
 
 The jonrueN' was lon^ and tcdions, for the rndcK -con- 
 structed nmiak was slow, and, in si)ite of llie hard and 
 stead\' work of the natives, it was ei^ht hours hefore the 
 ])la'-e was reached. Here was found a lar'_^e meteoric 
 Ira^UKUl ( now in the Museum of the Academx oj" N'atural 
 Sciences), and a little searchin;^- disco\erevl s(.'\ eral suialk'r 
 stoues. The\ were all irregularly-rounded mas^i'-; ha\'- 
 iui^ marks of I'usion on their exterior, and were com])osed 
 alnu)St entircK of natiw iron. These facts seemed to 
 ])oint directl\' lo a ctdotial origin. Xewrlheless, tjic 
 ^eolo^ist found reason to think that l]ie\- were not true 
 meteorite'-, but wei'e terrestrial formations whii'li had 
 heen thrown or carried to the location in which the\' 
 were found hy N'olcanic or other pluaiouiena. In anv 
 case, the (lisco\-er\- was a mo>l important one, and the 
 specimens wire regarded as hein^ amon:^ the mo^i inter- 
 (.■stiu',; and wilnahle ol' all i;alhered in the course iif the 
 \-o\ aL;c. 
 
 The e\'iaiin^' shades wi.re hecomini^ nioi'e t\ idenl 
 now, a.; 1 we ''reeti'd with deli''hl the first star wliich 
 
4 
 1' 
 
 A Ml "1 
 
 ,,KI 1 M \M' -I 1 "^t 1-V. 
 
 M K" 11 \"-l' 
 
It" 
 
THE VOYAC.F. OF THE KITE. 
 
 203 
 
 we had seen for more than a iiioutli; it was shiiiiiis^^ over 
 the hi^h hills of Disko. The new moon also was faintly 
 visible in the elear ex'eninj,'- sky. We were glad to light 
 the lamps again in the dim little cabin, and here we 
 gathered about Mr. Carstcns while he imparted to ns his 
 knowledge of Greenland history and cnstoms. His fnnd 
 of information was very extensive, and he was able to in- 
 form ns on many points not referred to in the books. 
 Mncli of what was related has already been told in de- 
 scribing the social life and folk-lore of Greenland. He 
 added, however, many points in relation to the histor\' t)f 
 Greenland which nia\- briefly be reconnted here. 
 
 Greenland, "The Land of Desolation," as it was well 
 called by Hayes, was discovered by Ivric the Red. l-'.ric 
 was a tnrbnlent nobleman who, banished trom I)L-nmark, 
 and later from Iceland, sailed westward to the coast of 
 Crreenland, to which he gave its somewhat dece])ti\e 
 title. It is related in the old chronicles that he gave it 
 that name with the direct intention to dccei\-e and de- 
 frand, hoping that "a fair name" might tempt colonists 
 to settle. The voyagers all regretted that the exiL^encies 
 of the trip ]M-e\ented om- stopping at Friedricksliaab, 
 where the remains of old luic's bnildings are slill stand- 
 ing, after a lapse of o\er nine hnndred \ears; for the \oy- 
 age of Ivric was made abont the )car 9S6. The story of 
 the settlement l;e made has often been told. The ])oor 
 people whom he persnaded to settle in his "fair land"' 
 lived for a time jjeacifnlh and with some comtoit: but 
 there were man\- drawbacks to their welfare. They had 
 to dejiend alnio>t entirely for su])plies of certain ma- 
 
1^ 
 
 mmmmmmmmm 
 
 204 
 
 /.\' .lA'L'/vc s/:.is. 
 
 )\h 
 
 ii 
 
 U'lials, notably wood and iron, on Nfsscls which, for sev- 
 eral \cars, came from Iceland. On one occasion, one or 
 two years havin_ti^ passed without supplies Ix-ini; sent, the 
 relief vessel found only their bones. They were the first 
 victims of the ICskimos, and, as far as known, the last. 
 What had happened was luiknown, but it is supposed 
 tliat tlie .Skrallers or Howlers, as the natives were called, 
 from the horrid noise they made at night, had slaughtered 
 them after their numbers liad been reduced 1)\- famine. 
 The land, after this, la>- idle and unoccupied by white in- 
 liabitants for hundreds of years, but at last was settled 
 again, originally as a penal colony, and later, since the 
 Near 1774, as the personal property of the Crown of Den- 
 mark. This it still is, and "trespassers are forbidden." 
 We learned this after we had committed the crime of land- 
 ing on tlie northern trip, Ijut as the ofience was only a 
 \enial one, no punishment was inflicted on us. Denmark 
 claims jurisdiction over (ireenland up to the 73d parallel 
 of north latitude, .\bove that it is no man's land, and, 
 indeed, any nation might easil\- gain Denmark's consent 
 to an abdication of its rights to southern (ireenland, for 
 we were informed, on highh' trustworth\- authority, that 
 it has ceased to be a source of income, and were it not for 
 the fostering care which Denmark has exercised o\-er the 
 natives of ( 'ireenland, there is little doubt but the\- would 
 soon bec(Mne extinct. The I'<skimo po])ulation last \ear 
 numbered ten thousand and thirt\\ a decrease of seven 
 from tlie Near before; antl a steady dimiinition continues 
 in spite of the s\stematie care and support Nvhich the 
 go\ernment so genc'roush' extends to them. It is prob- 
 
'II Hi \OY.\i.i-: ()/■- 11 IE kill']. 
 
 20: 
 
 nbic that there arc but few Ivskiinos north of MeUille 
 I5ay. Captain Ross nian\- years ai;() calcuhited llieir 
 number at hut two hundrcth and the estimates of Arctic 
 voyaj^crs since liis time have not exceeded it. We saw- 
 not o\er one liun(hed at botli Whale vSoiiud and Cape 
 York, and but one other native settlement is known. 
 This is a small village called h'tali, situated on Hartstene 
 IJax', about one decree further north than Whale Sound. 
 This place we did not visit. It was here that IIa\es es- 
 tablished his winter (puirters in iSfx). It has but few iu- 
 liabitants, and c\en if the\- were added to those that we 
 saw, the total number woidd still fall far short of the es- 
 timate of Captain Ross, (ircenland is under the control 
 of a government ])oard in Denmark known as the Kones;- 
 liL;e Gronlandske Handle. It is divided into two in- 
 spectorates, north and south, divided by the parallel of 
 67° 40' north latitude. The inspector of the former re- 
 sides in (lodhavn, and the latter in (iodhaab. They are 
 responsible to the home government. The inspectorates 
 are divided into a number of districts, each having its 
 own governor and assistant goxernor, wdio are responsible 
 to the inspector in whose jurisdiction the district is situ- 
 ated. In the Xorthern Cireenland districts, besides the 
 inspector, governor, and assistant go\eruor, there are no 
 white people except a doctor who lixes at Jakobsha\ u. 
 In Southern Greenland there are two nuire physicians. 
 one living at (xodthaab, and the other at Julianshaab. 
 After five years of dul\ the\- are allowed to enter the 
 roval ser\ice in Dtiiniark as district physicians. 
 
 All this and much more Mr. Carsteus narrated to us 
 
^^immmm 
 
 206 
 
 /.V ARCriC SEAS. 
 
 |l>i 
 
 as we chatted together in the little cabin of the Kite. In 
 our turn, we told him of the abori(jinal inhabitants at 
 Cape York, whom he had never seen. We asked liim 
 whether there were an\- relics left near Disko of the 
 primeval Eskimos. He told ns of an old <jraveyard 
 situated across the ba\- from Godhavn, which was long 
 abandoned, but where he said aboriginal tombs, exactly 
 as we had described, still existed The idea of discover- 
 ing other relics immediately inspired me, and, launch- 
 ing a boat, with only Mr. Kenealy as my companion, I 
 rowed across the narrow bay in the midnight twilight 
 lo the locality which Mr. Carstens had indicated. With 
 oome little difficulty the place was at last found, and 
 tomb after tor.' -opened, with the result of unearthing 
 (piite a coUen < skulls. Xo votive offerings such as 
 we had found at Whale vSomid were discovered, though 
 earnesU}' .'.ic ^iit '")r. '''*liis was accounted for, perhaps, 
 l)v the fact tliat the tomb.; were ancient and their con- 
 tents might have decayed away. Gathering together a 
 number of skulls, we returned to the ship in the early 
 morning, just before the return of Professor Heilprin and 
 Mr. Ashhurst from their long and tiresome journey uf 
 .some sixteen hours' duration. 
 
 All liands were wear\- when, at about 3 A. M., we went 
 to bed, and it was not until late the next day that the 
 customar\' activity prevailed among us. The work of 
 loading ballast for the ship still continued, but in the 
 most leisurely fashion. A boat being .sent to the beach, 
 the natives would gather blocks of stt)ne, carrying them 
 one by one until a load was procured. These in turn 
 
 
l!l! 
 
 77//; r<u:i(,/: or ////■: a///;. 
 
 207 
 
 nt 
 he 
 (,f 
 Ihe 
 :h. 
 .'in 
 liru 
 
 were jiassfd up the shii)"s side and dropped carerulh' inlo 
 the hold. 
 
 It was onr k\st da\- at (iodhavn, and, as it tnrned ont, 
 also onr last in (Greenland, and all were anxious to make 
 the most of it. I saw no opiwrtnnity to add t(j the col- 
 lection alrea<l\' made, so a eonsiderali(jn of a more prae- 
 tical nature th.an that which inspired the others nio\ed 
 me. I had ohserxed that the breeches made tor me at 
 Cape York by the I{skimo women were not ])liabk\ like 
 those worn by m\- comrades, which had Ixl-u made at 
 Godhavn. They were stiff and nn.^aiuK-, and, when not 
 in use, like stovepijK'S in ri_^i(lit\-. .\ conversation with 
 one of the Kskimos who s])oke a little broken bhi^lish, 
 and the translation of whose inipronounceable name was 
 Raven, revealed to me the cause : they had not been 
 chewed. It appears that it is necessary to carefulh chew 
 the seal-skin to render it snfficieiith- jiliable. This was 
 nnwelcomc news, for I knew of no one who would care 
 to chew the <^arments, filled as lhe\' were with rancid oil. 
 But Mr. Raven, in consideration of a certain amount of 
 
 )lnsj' tobacco, kindh- offered to manat'e all that, ami 
 
 1 
 
 cscortinj^ me to the house, introduced Mrs. Ra\en to me, 
 
 with the brief direction to her (at least so I suppose) to 
 
 chew the garments thoronyhly. I remained to witness 
 
 the operation, which she bei^an with that clu'erful alac- 
 
 ril\" that characterizes the Kskimo woman when directed 
 
 b\- her lord, but the si^s^ht was not pleasant, and I left 
 
 the (garments to her tender care. I must confess that 
 
 she did the work in the most skilful manner, and also 
 
 added a couple of buttons, su that I was no lonji;er com- 
 
 14 
 
» 
 
 mmm 
 
 208 
 
 AV .lA'C/VC S/:. IS. 
 
 )l" 
 
 ])elle(l to tic them t()<retlR'r with thoii_[>^5-.. Mr. Raven 
 broit<.^ht iheiii back in the afternoon in a most satisfae- 
 tor\- condition, aiul I ])ai(l liim the tobacco aj^reed npon. 
 
 I sn.uj^ested that liis wife slionld have sometliinj^- to com- 
 ])ensate her, instead of payin.i; liim, bnt lie <Hd not seem 
 to understand me, and the sniyect was (hopped. 
 
 At I A. M. on An,t,Mist 12th steam was made, and we 
 left (xodhavn. All were on deck, and we took a last look 
 at the place which will always remain the most pleasant 
 in onr memories of Greenland. A solitar\- star shone 
 bri}.;htly over the villaj^e. \\\ its brilliancy we knew it 
 to be the jilanet Jnjnter, as the nii^ht was not yet dark 
 enon^h to show stars of lesser maj^nitnde. A few min- 
 utes sufficed to take us (.)nt of the harbor and place us 
 once more on the open sea. The weather continued ^ood 
 all day, and we made an excellent run. Karly the ne.xt 
 day a stront^ wind sprauy^ up, which sot)n developed into 
 
 II jj^ale. The sea ran mountains hi,u[h, and our ship was 
 to.ssed about so violently as to be ahnost unmana<^eable. 
 It sent all bnt those who w'l'c actually employed in 
 W'orkin<;- the vessel to their berths for safety. It was 
 ahnost impossible to move around without }j;^reat dan,u;-er, 
 and we all kept pretty quiet as lon*^ as the blow lasted. 
 After some hours the wind bc^an to subside, leaving- a 
 heavy swell which pitched tlie vessel about as if it were 
 a chi]). The weather was ha/.\-, with rain at intervals, 
 which, much to the relief of .all, gradually calmed the 
 sea. The chief en<rincer, ]\Ir. Jardine, reported that ouh- 
 enou.^h coal remained to take us direct to vSt. John's, so 
 we were forced to forego the pleasure of visiting several 
 
Till-: ro): !(,/■: <>/■■ ////•; a///:. 
 
 209 
 
 points in vSoutli (imnland, as had been onr (k'sirc. TIic 
 WfalliLT now btcana- clear and hriL^lil, willi a fair wind. 
 Karl\- in tlic niornini; a l)ri^ was sij^liled sailiiis; sontli, 
 al)onl ten miles to the westward of ns. All went on deck 
 to ^et a look at her. It was leniarkabk- that what in 
 other waters wonld he snch a triflinj^ ewnt, in these nn- 
 travelled seas commanded all onr attention. I'\)r nearlv 
 three months, with the exception of those at (iodliavn and 
 l'|ierna\ik, we had not seen a sliip nor any si,L;n of civil- 
 ized man. The stranger was a trim little craft, not far 
 enongli sonth to Ix-long to tlic line whicli carries crxolite 
 from Ivigtnk to Philade]])liia, and too far nortli to be in 
 the Danisli trade witli tlie Xortli drcenland settlements. 
 All these latter had left (iodha\n, on their voyage to 
 Denmark, long ])efore onr own departnre. We did not 
 f.xpect to meet an\- vessels, l)ecanse it was so h\W in the 
 season that sailing shi])s wonld liardly ventnre so far 
 north for fear of being canglit in the ice. We had our- 
 selves taken tlie kist mail from the North (irecnland set- 
 tlements, the governor bringing it oiT to ns the night we 
 left (lodhavn, and stating that it was the onl\' ojijiortn- 
 nit\' he wonld have of sending any nntil next season. 
 The brig was too far olT onr conrse to speak her, and 
 as it wonld ha\e taken too nuich of onr now \alnable 
 coal to ha\x' sailed within comnmnicating distance, .she 
 remained as mysterions as whi-n first seen, and the canse 
 of the only excitement of the day. 
 
 On vSnnda\', .Angnst i6ih, the wind was dead ahead, 
 and stormy enongh to canse considerable sea, which made 
 the distance rnn mnch less than on the previous day. 
 
\r 
 
 2IO 
 
 /.\' ./A'(7/C s/:.is. 
 
 II" 
 
 I;!!' 
 
 I: 
 
 Dai'kiK'SS al this liiiU' I)c'i;aii about 9 i'. M., ami tlu- li_L;lits 
 in our cabin and about the ship wvw now nsrd. alUr 
 nian\- weeks oi" continuous (la\ lii^ht. \\\' had had a >i,L^hl 
 of llic moon for the past three niylits, and the numerous 
 stars visil)li' in tlte hea\-ens <^;i\v the sky more- the ap- 
 ])earaiice ot' that of the 'iVanperate Zone. Tlie North 
 Star was \ery l)rij;ht, and seemed almost directlv o\er- 
 liead. The stron,^- head wind and lii-^h seas continued 
 until niorniu};, and it was necessary to i)ut the ship three 
 points offlier course to case her up. Twenty-four hours 
 later the sun was a>;ain shininj.,'-, and made exerythinij;- 
 look l)ri,t;hter. The .sea had ^onedown, and early in the 
 eveninj4' the moon, which was now full, was seen in all 
 its beauty. At 10 l*. m. we were treated to the niai^iiif- 
 icent spectacle of the aurora borealis as seen in these 
 Northern waters. Xo conception of its brilliancy can be 
 had at home, and it will lie remembered as one of the 
 man\' strau.tre sights this interestin*^ x-ovai^-e .ifforded 
 us. The next dav the weather was a,L,^ain fine, and the 
 sea as still and calm as the ])roverl)ial mill-pond. .\ 
 lii^ht favorable wind came np toward nii^^ht, when all 
 sails were set and our ship sped alonir at a more rapid 
 pace than for .some time. About S p. y\. a lar^e steamer 
 in the east was seen to be bearin*;- down u])on us. As it 
 evidently wished tosjiea.k us, the AVA wasstopjied and its 
 approach awaited. It proved to be tin.' CaiiJuhw of vScot- 
 land, and we found that they wished to know the course 
 to Indian Harbor, Labrador. This inform.ation was 
 t^ivcn them b\- Ca])tain Pike, and after e.\clian<;ini^ .sa- 
 lutes we renewed our respective courses. 
 
/•///■; ro): !(,/■; o/- riii: kiii-:. 
 
 21 I 
 
 ( )ii AiiL^usl jdtli \v(.' rcMflud I.ahradoi' and skirted tlu- 
 coast. The land was lii.L^li, rocky, and in ])kic(.'S appeared 
 j^reeii tVoiii tile preseiiei' of \-e^etation. It looked more 
 IiospitabU' than tlu' more harri'ii shores of (ireeiilaiid. 
 Iliiiidreds of fishiiij^'-lmats wire now seen ever\\vhcre, 
 and si,niis of ei\ili/ed man greeted ns (jnee more. Lar^^e 
 ii'iher^s were still floalin,t; lu're and there, the (jnly 
 reinincU'r of our 'ale trials and dingers. The steani- 
 .ship l\vitli(i\ of »St. John's, was si)okcn. This vessel 
 was interestintj;- as bein^- the one that had taken Dr. 
 Haves' expedition as far as Melville I'lay, years aj^o. It 
 had been rebnilt since then, and was ([nite a trim little 
 craft. On the nii^ht of .Xn^nst 2f)th we were al)cain of 
 Helle Isle. On the following day head winds were en- 
 coti.itered, with rain. The sliip, beinj^^ so lij^htened, was 
 no\\' (piite hard to drive lhroni;h the hea\y seas, and the 
 pitch inj^- and tossinj.^ conunenced once more. 
 
 On .Xn^nst 22(1 the snn, shinin!:;- bri<4htly, showed the 
 jjrecn and inctnrescpie shores of Xewfonndland. The 
 transi'ormation from the ic\' Xorth to a land a<;ain inhab- 
 ited by onr own kind was indeed striking;', and heart- 
 il\ ap])recialed b\- all. The sea was (piiet, and we soon 
 arrixed in si^lit of the harbor of St. John's, and were 
 safe once more. 
 
 It was on a beantifnl vSunda\- morning- that the vo\-a,s.^e 
 of the Kite came to an end. All hands were bnsy mak- 
 ing themselves ])resentable for cixilized society, and the 
 transformations that were accomjilislu'd by some of the 
 members were Irnlv astonisliini;-. Al)ont 9 o'clock we 
 came in si*;ht of the entrance to the h.irbor of vSt. John'-. 
 
'.!! 
 
 212 
 
 /A' , IA'(//(- s/:.is. 
 
 )l»' 
 
 i )iir ;ini\;il was .si^n.ilKd al oiut ft, tin the ti>[) of the 
 i^iral dill" wliicli marks oiU' sidr of [\\v tiiiraiUT. lis 
 orc'st was siiriiioinilid 1)\- a lot I and sij^nai station, and 
 tidiii it sii^iial ilai_;s \\\vr llowii in siu-c-(.s>ioii, uliicli, hrinj^ 
 intiTi)HtL'd, nuaut "A stcanirr loniiii"' in;" " I'.owrin'r 
 ItrotluTs;" " ihr A'i/i :" \vl wvw \v\)nv[vA. 'riii.'Sf sijj;'- 
 nals an.' |tlainl\' x-isihli- at St. jolin's, and the citw wi.Te 
 ()\erjo\ 1(1 that their familits wonld soon know of tiieir 
 safe return from {\\v Aretie rei^ions. 
 
 It look nearly an hour to re leli doek, for thr tntranee 
 to St. John's is narrow and tortuous. Thron^h lofty 
 cliffs the passage wemls its \va\- to a spIiMidid harbor, 
 si'eond to noni in tlu' world, and it is not until the last 
 bend is passed that one sees aii\' si^iis of a larm' eit\ or 
 e\t.'n eixilizatiou. iMually, l)nildin|,4S apprared, and in 
 a niouuait the whok' eily, with its bloeks of Iioum-s 
 ranjj^ed in terraet-s of streets, was in full \iew. Tlu' nai- 
 row ehannrl \vi(K utd to a ^reat ba\', on tln' shores 
 of which laid the town. To the rii;ht was .Sii^ual Hill, 
 from which thr notii-e of our arri\ al had Ix/en sent; to 
 the left rose another .^reat ]»rouiontory, crowned b\ the 
 arsenal and fort with whieli ]''.unland juotects this import- 
 ant ])ort ; and, immediateh' in front, the cit\- of vSt. John's, 
 with the hi^h catlu'dial towxrs dominating the town. 
 
 Our sii^nal had (.\identl\ bcrn seen, for the towns- 
 people Hocked to the wharf, and, brforc- the ship could be 
 made fast, oxerwhelmed us with incpiirivs; but, bL-insj;- 
 tired of sea-lifi.', we wrrt' anxious oul\ lor rest and a com- 
 fortable hotel. This was found without diflicu]t\- on the 
 main business street of the cil\-, after sendiu''- awa\- a 
 
 I 
 
IIS- 
 
 nn- 
 tlK- 
 a 
 
 V. 
 
 r 
 
 
 'J 
 
 C 
 
 T 
 
 I 
 

 i; I 
 
 r ■ 
 
 hH. 
 
 '{; 
 
////■; r<> ).!(,/■: or ////■: a///;. 
 
 213 
 
 few U'lcj^raiiis to assure tlic folks al lioine of our safe 
 arrival. 
 
 We were eonipelled to reinaiii at vSt. John's for five 
 <lays, as \u> steamer left until the followini^ iMidax', when 
 the .Vnrtf So-O'<r//, of the Allan Line, departecl for Balti- 
 more, The time was spent very plcasanth', however, 
 for we fonnd numerous friends amon,y; the honest Xew- 
 foundlanders. Mr. Mollo\-, the Aiiieriean eonsiil at the 
 port, entertained us with the greatest eordiality. Mrs. 
 MolloN' was efpially hospitable, and insisted on the whole 
 party bein<"- invited to their house. Xot less eourteous 
 was the Rev. Mr. Harve\-, the historian of Xewfoinid- 
 land, who v.as kind enough to ])ersonally introduce us to 
 the 5.;()vernor, vSir Terance X. ()'I)rien, at the (govern- 
 ment House. His Ivxcellency received us ])leasantly, 
 anil invited the whole parl\- to the reception which it 
 was ))roposed to !L,nve to Sir Ambrose Shea, a former 
 <.^overnor of Xewfoundland, who was expected to arri\e 
 at vSt. John's on the Xoru SoUiaii, 1 1/ ro/i/, to his new 
 post at the I'ermudas. 
 
 Besides these acts of distinj^uished courtesy, we were 
 the recipients of marked attention from other citixeiis of 
 .St. John's. .Several of us \isited the ISrilish war-ship 
 I\ni('raI(U which la\- in the harbor, and were most hos- 
 pitably receixed b\- the captain, .Sir. I'.aldwin W. Walker, 
 I'art.. aiid the other officers of the shi]). 
 
 ( )n I'ridaN- n'orniuL; wi' left .St. John's on the Xova 
 S(i>/iaii, and after an uui'xeulful \i)\ a^i saw tor a short 
 stop at Halifax, X. .S. — arrived at iiallimore-, whence we 
 ])roceeded to IMiilailelphia, wlu le \\\' arriwd on .Se])teni- 
 
^ 
 
 214 
 
 /X .lA'C/VC S7:.IS. 
 
 :i\' 
 
 li*^ 
 
 I,' 
 
 i: 
 
 l)L'r Slh, llms conipk-liiij^ our \())a<4L' in a lillk- inoru than 
 tluvc nioiitlis. 
 
 To rc\i(.\v lliL' trip: llic- ()l)jtcl wliicli moved Lifutcn- 
 aiit I\'ar\' was a most landahk' one, ami if succL'Ssful will 
 add ^rcath' to our knowkdj^i.- of a most obscure (juartcr 
 of the world; ou the pari of the reluruinj^- members of 
 the expedition, the\- brou,L;ht home, besides much \alii- 
 able information, many specimens of the flora and fauna 
 of ( ireenland. vSuch collections, wlu'ther anthropologi- 
 cal, zoological, botanical, or ^eolo<;ical, are alwa\s of 
 benefit to the world's fund of knowlediic. 
 
 This is the main aim of all explorations, and the mem- 
 bers of the expedition have no reason to be ashamed of 
 their contribution. There were more than seven tons of 
 material brou.^ht back, a larj^e proportion of which is 
 now in the Academ\- of Xalural .Sciences, ready for the 
 use of future students of the xarious features of Arc- 
 tic life. The skidls and other anlhropolo<;ical material 
 which we were fortunate enough to obtain have pro\ed a 
 nu)St useful addition to the fine collection now in the 
 Academy's museum. Not less valuable were the addi- 
 tions made in ornitholo^x, in iiucrtebrate zoology, in en- 
 lomoloi^y, and in bolan\-. I'' very separate object, whether 
 an Ivskimo child's toy or a metioric mass, has its \alue 
 in the e\es of the true scientist, who kiu)ws where each 
 belongs in the (^reat econoitu of nature. 
 
 It was not until the \()\a.L;e was nearly oN'er thai we 
 fully comprehended what we had done an<l what we had 
 aimed to do. The r(.ali/.ation of the dangers so receiitlv 
 l)assed seemed to increase as we iieaied home and had 
 
 ji; i 
 
■J I II-: \'oy.i(.i: oi- riii: kiii-:. 
 
 215 
 
 more time for rellectioii. The tales of Kane and others 
 now came hack to memory with sneli vi\'i(hiess and 
 realism that the imauination needed not to he called 
 
 upon lor scenes and places; indeed, so strange and diller- 
 eiil had heen the Arctic land and its people tliat one 
 mij^ht have asked whether it was still onr own world. 
 The inconccivahle inimensit\- of the j^laciers, the mere 
 frat^ments of which make j;i<;antic and lofty iceherj^s; the 
 midnij^ht snn, shinini; on the illimitable ice cap; the 
 stran-'e and ciirions forms of animal and \e''elal)le life ; 
 
 tl 
 
 le intense so 
 
 litnd 
 
 e, unbroken save t)\- the hea\\- nim- 
 
 blin_y; and thiiiiderinj^ of colla])siii,!4 ber<4S, which at times, 
 thon.^h many miles away, would make almost lidal- 
 wa\es b\- their sudden displacement of the water, and 
 very perceptibly cause our ship to roll and toss on the 
 troubled sea, — a.i^ain and attain i);issed in re\iew before 
 us as we sat lazih' dreamin<^ on the sunlit decks on the 
 passa<;e homeward. Tlu' lieav\' ,^ale we encountered on 
 Icavint^ Whale Sound, wh<re wc- were but a mile or two 
 from a lee shore, with crashin<^ ber^^s e\er\ where around 
 us and the weather so thick that not a sliii)'s leiioth 
 could be seen from our deck; the uroundini; ot our ship 
 in Waif^ate Channel, and our numerous escapes from 
 beiiiL; wrecked b\- the ice, — all caused us to realize how 
 close we had been to lia\in;^ met the fite of so main- 
 others who had \entu'i(l to the fro/eii Xorth. 
 
^' *»- 
 
 iii 
 
 »!' 
 
 t 
 
PART II. 
 
 The Relief of Peary 
 
 AND 
 
 THE LOG OF THE KITE, 
 
 ETC. 
 
nm 
 
 :^ 
 
 I1» 
 
 li 
 
 J 
 
INTRODrCTION, 
 
 Till': slR'fts tor "TliL- N'oyao-c of tin- AV/r," wliicli 
 forms Part I. of tin.- prcsc-nl noIuiiR', were sea rt-clx' 
 off press when it beeame exideiit that a larger edition 
 wonld be needed to snpi)ly the demand. The anlliors 
 decided, however, to await the reliu'n of the l'ear\ Re- 
 lief Expedition which had jnst been sent ont b\ llie 
 Academ\- of Xatnral Sciences, and to inchide, if possi- 
 ble, in the new edition a brief account of Lieutenant 
 I*ear\'s exjilorations and lite in the Xorth. The result 
 has fully justified theii' caution. The relief e\pe(Htion 
 was not only entirel\' successful in finding- Lieutenant 
 I'eary and his part\', but also in extending the fields of 
 explorations undertaken b\- the West (ireenland Expedi- 
 tion. vSo much material was ])laced at the disposal o{ 
 the authors by members of the relief ex])edili(iu. b\- 
 CajHain Pike and b\- Lieutenant Pear\- himself, that the 
 idea of an appendix was abandoned and it was decided 
 to issue an eutireh' new work which should be a l>rief 
 but complete storv' of the PearN" P^xpedition of iS(;i-'(j2. 
 The ])reseiit Xdluuie includes the stor\' of the West 
 (ireeidand P^xpeditioii of iSc^i, which i-scorted Pear\ 
 and ills part\- to Xurlli (ireeiilaud. It tells of their Imi:^ 
 winter sojourn in that desolaU' laiul. It (K'scribes the 
 
 ji'.i 
 
220 
 
 INTROnrCTION. 
 
 sw 
 
 k 
 
 life of Mrs. Peary in Iirr nniciiu- position ;;s tliu only 
 wliitc woiuaii who c\er wintered in the extreme North. 
 It ,!.4i\es a l)rief aeeonnl of Lientenant Pear\ 's ^rand 
 (lasli iiortliward o\erhuid, and of liis sneeessfnl retnrn. 
 It recites the eoniplete story of the relief e\])e(lition 
 from its conception to its fnlfillment with the finding- of 
 l'ear\- on the ice-cap. It contains the fnllest account 
 yet i)nl)lished of the loss of Mr. \'erhoeff, with the 
 rumors and suspicions which were excited hy that loss. 
 And it brielly describes the welcome home which the 
 explorers receixed after the most successful Arctic ex- 
 pedition of modern times. 
 
 'I'he ex]iedition was wonderfully successful. With 
 only one man missiuj^', without undue danj^er or expos- 
 ure this little baiul accomplished more in fifteen mouths 
 than had been done by all the pre\ious expeditions since 
 Kane. It succeeded in uiappin,L;- out a lariL;e extent of 
 ])re\iousl\- unknown country about In^^lefield (lUlf. It 
 explored thorou.L;hly the ,!L;reat I'etermauu fiord of which 
 onl\- the entrance was hitherto known. It i)euetrate(l 
 to the northern limit of the .^reat ice-ca]) of (ireeuland 
 and fairh- indicated the northern l)oinidar\- of that i;reat 
 island. It reached within loo miles of the furthest 
 jioint north ever reached b\- man, and m:ii)])ed the east- 
 ern coast of (ireeuland fnll\- ioo miles north of the 
 furthest point heretofore reached on that coast. 
 
 This is a i^rand record, and one of whicli Lieutenant 
 IVar\- and his ])art\ may well be ])roud. He did not 
 succeed and he did not anticipate beiui:; able to succeed in 
 
 h' 
 
 M 
 

 o 
 
 > 
 X 
 H 
 
 If. 
 
 > 
 
 \^ 
 
 I 
 
 r. 
 
 r. 
 
 c 
 
 r, 
 
 r. 
 
 ■ \ 
 
^ 
 
 
 11: 
 
 j 
 
 |i 
 
 
 I; 
 
/XT/yio/u'cnoiV. 
 
 2-V> 
 
 his short joiinuN in ]ilanliii;_; thr \iiuric;in llai; al a point 
 t'livthi-i tiorlli tliaii it had alrcail\- hix'H plaiitrd by I!raiiiar<l 
 ami I.oc'kwood, hni \\v ha> i>ro\-fU that the lattf iiiii^t 
 ha\r uachcd rilhi.r an oiitK iiii^ spur of thr ^nal < imn- 
 hind couliiK'Ul, or, as i> iiiort.- prohahk', an i>huid Iviii..; 
 ill i\\v pako-crystic sra. I Ir has shown that thi' method 
 wliich he first (.•mployi.d for (.'xphjriii.^ thr interior of 
 (irieiil.iiKl is not only perfectly feasihU'. but pro(liteti\e 
 ol the greatest results for the k'a>t exertion and daiii^er. 
 
 I le was able also to map out aeeiirately a lar^f por- 
 tion of the western coast of (Greenland which has hith- 
 erti> been only im])erfectl\' explored, and to pro\(.' by 
 the experience of his part\-, which inclnded his >omi^- 
 wife, that it is ])ossiI)le for white peo])le to live in coin- 
 parati\e comfort in an\' climate in the world. 
 
 Captain Richard Tike, the commainler of the A "/A, on 
 both the ex])editions to the Xortli, ,L;a\e the authors the 
 use of his official lo.^" of the xoya^e which is here repro- 
 duced in full. It will be seen that the rcdief ex])editioii 
 was remarkably fortunate, the /\//<- meetin,^,'- not a sin^^le 
 storm nor having- been dela\ ed 1)\- ice to aiu' considerable 
 extent ill her loni;' \-oya,iL;e to the entrance of Rensselaer 
 \k\\\ in 7S^ 23', or in her return to the Delaware Capes. 
 T/ic la/iic 0/ t/i/'s ofjiiia/ /vvvvv/ tan sur/rt/v />(■ (>:<t- 
 i'stiDialcd. l! ,i,'/rv.i' an aiitluntic lucord i^f ///(• •icJii^lr 
 
 t'Xpi(////i>l/. 
 
 Mr. William !•',. Meelian, who accompanied the relief 
 expedition as botanist, has ^raphicalh' describeil the 
 joiirnex'. His facilities for obser\-ation and his skill in 
 
m 
 
 224 
 
 IXTRODUCTION. 
 
 Uv 
 
 +1^ 
 
 |)(»rtrayin<^- tin.- iiicidculs of llic- xoya.m', luakt- his portion 
 of IIr' work of pL'fuliar iutrrt-'St. The- authors ask iiic 
 to i-xprcss thrir apprcciatiou of his kind ciidfax-ors. 
 
 The only sad iucidcMit of the entire stor\- is ihi' loss of 
 Wrhoeir. Whether he strayed away intiiitionall\ with 
 tile idea of spending; a winter aloni' in the Arelie high- 
 lands, or, whether, as Lientenant IVary heliexes, he was 
 lost in the j^laciers, is one of those' niwsteries whieh the 
 icy Xorlh holds and will in all prol)al)ility nexer be 
 nnfolded. All the information that it was possible to 
 obtain on the snbjict has been ])roenred, inelndiniL; the 
 correspondenee between Mr. Wrlioeff and Lienten.mt 
 I'eary before the (.'Npedition saiUd, and the oflii-ial 
 reeord of seareh as drawn u]) by Captain I'ike when the 
 nnfortnnale yonn^- man was found to be missing-. The 
 latter has been rc'])roduced by jihoto^^raphic ])roeess. 
 'l\ie melancholy interest in the yoini.i; man's fate is \ery 
 •^reat, and these records will ser\ e to satisfx' it as far as 
 is now i)ossil)le. 
 
 'I'he autliors ha\e asked nie to thank Mr. Mehillc 
 
 Philips and Mr. vStepheu IMeil for their assistance 
 
 in ]M-eparin,n- this record of the Peary ICxpedition of 
 
 lS9i-'ij2. 
 
 \V. H. IUkk. 
 
 I 
 
THK LOGOFTHIi "KITE." 
 
 KlCIIAkl) I'lKi;, M.\.sti;k. 
 
 ikci.MMUd V. rl.atiih l,,„„ ilir .lui, - Ion k. I.v |,.i iiuvMcii <,l Captain I'ikf.^ 
 
 
 i. 
 
 DIARY ()I- THIv I'lvARV RHIJKF KXPKDITloX 
 
 To wi-sT (;ri:i-:xlaxi). 
 
 C < ) M M i'. \ c I \ ( ; J r I. V 4 , i S 9 2 . 
 
 Moxi.AV, Jri.v 4, A. M.— liroiiis strono- h\xx-/.v In. in 
 S. \\'., wilh ihick cloudy wcallicr. S. S. A7/r (.'Wivvd 
 for the- (-■xpc'dilioii, lyiii^- at owner's wharf. 9 a. ni., llic- 
 relict part)- from {'. S. came on board, coiisi.siin.L,'- of 
 the followin,^- niemhers : Professor .Xn.^clo Ileilprin, 
 Academy of Xatnral vScicnccs, I'hiladclpliia, and com- 
 mander of the e.\])edition ; IIenr\- ( ',. P.r\ant, PliiJadel- 
 phia, second in c(jnnnand, explorer of (irand p'alls 
 of Labrador (1S91); Dr. Jack.son M. .Mills, .snrocon, 
 William K. Median, Philadelphia, assistant editor 
 of the Philadelphia /.,v/--v7-, son of Profcs.sor :\rce]ian, 
 \'ice-pre.sident .\cadem\- of Xatnral Sciences, I'hila- 
 delphia ; Albert While X^orse, exchan,<re editor of 
 Philadelphia />nss ,■ iMank W. Stokes, Philadel])]iia, 
 artist representing- .SV/v/w, /-'.v AAro/tzn/r ,■ C. V.. I lite, 
 P.iirlin-tf)n, X. J., zoological preparator ; vSanuiel J. 
 
 225 
 
 i 
 
2j6 
 
 IX ARC77C SI-: AS. 
 
 i 
 
 IW 
 
 i 
 
 ICulrikiii, W'fst Cla'sUr, I'a., lontKrh Director of tlie 
 ScliolR'ld Itulnslrial vSchools of Aikc-ii, vS. C. 1't.ople 
 (.niploN r<l taking on hoard stores sliippcd by M/raih/a 
 from W\v York. Xooii, ,L;aI(.- from S. W. litisily 
 c-n.i^a,L;i.(l prfpariui; for tlu' \-o\ ai^f. Members of the 
 ]\irt\- pill hi!:;^a,L;e on boanh and took iij) tlieir (piarters 
 first ni^ht on board tlie /\//i\ Michii^lit, hea\\' ,L;ale 
 fu)'!! vS. \\'.\ thick, ciond\- weather. 
 
 Ti'i'.ShAV, J I i,\' 3, A. M. — 'IMiis da\- l)e^ins, as \ester- 
 (hp , witli stronj.,^ .u;»l<-'- P'- !'••. hea\y rain. S a. m., 
 wind nio(k'rate and fine. I'eopk- einph)\ed i)nttin_^- on 
 board coal stoves. The ])art\' enjoyed tlieir ni^l'.t's rest 
 on board ; also partook of a iL^ood lireakfist. Xooii, 
 fiiu-. 2 p.m., first whistle to start. 2.1.S J'-iii., second 
 blows. 2.3i> ]).m., ca>t off from the wharf, all on board ; 
 backed in the harbor amid cheers from the shore, with 
 all the ^ood wishes imaginable, accompanied by Messrs. 
 IJowrin^'s steam laniich. ( )utside the narrows, 3 ]>. m., 
 parted com[)an\- with steam launch and well-wishers 
 amid a \-olle\' from re\-ol\ers, and shaped our course for 
 (ireeiiland. I'. M., parsed north end of Uaccrdieii. 
 Modirale breeze from X. \\. and few hea\' swells iiea\- 
 im; from X. V,. id p. in.. Miranda passi'd ns be, 
 bound for Little \\a\ ; exchanged three whistles and 
 ])aited compaiu'. Midnight, calm and ftic ; engines 
 .ijc \\\\^ full s])eed. 
 
 \Vi:i)Ni"..si>.\v, Jri.v 6, A. M. — Iie^ins li,<;ht breeze 
 from the ^'astward, and fine all fore and aft. Canvas 
 set S a. \\\. Some of the ]>art\ failed to be at the 
 
7//A" LOC OF TlfE KIT I-:. 227 
 
 l)ixakfa>l-lal)k\ but. iIk- fiiK- Wfatlicr tliniUL^li llic (la\ 
 Ijiou^lil. iIr'111 lint. Lai. al iiDoii, 4'^ 41' X.; loii^., 
 },2 511' W. 4 |). 111., tiiK- wtailur. Sonic of llic parl\- 
 iiijoxfd UKiiischrs al iiAdhcr ^liooiiiii^ al lar^cls 
 llu'owii from >liip. ^ p. 111., wind Inrnin^ to llir S. W. 
 Sfl all s(|uai\' >-ails. Midiii,i;Iil, nKHlcralc and fine-; 
 (.■n,L;iiK-s .i.;oin^ full speed. 
 
 TiirR.si) w. Jri.\' 7, a. m. — Ue^jins niodcrak-, bruc-zc- 
 from vS. W. and riiic. ■; .t m., Irrsli bivczc from wcsl, all 
 possible sail set. lMi:;i.Ks i;oin,n' full speed. ;dl hands 
 slio\ve(l iliemsi'lves at table al S a. in. in i^ood spirits. 
 Xoon, sun obscure. Lililude I)\- account 52' k/, 
 loiii^ilude 1)\ accoinil 5- -•'' ^V. 4 ]). 111., weallier 
 fine, water \-er\- smooth. Mr. Ilrxanl and I'hitrikin 
 succeeded in tdiiubiiiL; lo the crow's luvsl aniiil shouts 
 and laughter from the rot of the part\ . 4 ]>. 111., crew 
 emplo\ed >liifliii,i;- t-oal from the hold to the bunkers. 
 .Midni:.;lit, li.i^hl airs and fine, cii;;iiies ,L;oin,L; full speed. 
 
 1'kii>. \v. Jn.v S, A. M. — lie^ins as \est.erda\-. 4a. 111., 
 fre->h breeze- from the soitthw.ird. Set all ])ossil)le sail, 
 6 a.m., rain. s a.m., breeze fresheiiiii^, rain luld up, 
 walL'r \-er\- smootli. All the part\- on deck practisin,^- 
 
 shooliU'', readiiiLj, etc 
 
 Noon, cloU(l\, sun ohscnre. 
 
 I/ililude b\- account ^s i,^' N'-. lou^i^ilndi.' 1)\ ai'counl 
 51 55' W. 1*. .M., cri-w eiui)lo\ed shifting; t'oal to bunk- 
 ers 2 p. m., sudden cdi lui^e from \\. X. !•",., slowed 
 sipiare sails. (\ p.m., li.i^ht breeze and niurk\'. S ]).m., 
 bri^k bre.ze iVom the >oulliward. .Set sipiare sails. 
 Midni^lil, cloud\-, en,L;ines .i^oiu^ full speed. 
 
2 2S 
 
 IN ARCTIC SliAS. 
 
 h'. 
 
 .Satikd.w, ]\\.\ (;, A. M. — lic'^iiis brisk. lirci/.c 
 from llic soiilliNvanl, and cIdikK'. W'atc-r sniontli. all 
 possiblf sail si't. S a. iii., (lillo WL-alliiM'. X<i()ii, 
 cloudy, thick toi;'. Latiludr 1)\ accoiiiil 5S 6', loii^i- 
 liidc^i'^ 5S'. 4 p. 111., do. Mr. .\nisl .Stoko busily 
 cii^a.t^cd skclcliiii!^ slii])'s spars and caiuas. S ]>. ni., 
 Professor Ilcilpriu diliwrrd a lecture in the saloon on 
 (ircculand, which was wrN inlercstiuL; to the part\'. 
 Mi(hii<i;ht, li.^ht airs and xariable thick fo^. ICni^ines 
 t^oitiL;- full speed. 
 
 vSrxDAV, Jn.v 10, a. m. — lle^ins as \esterda\-. 
 Stowed S([nare sails 4 a.m., do. Clear at times and 
 fresh l)ree/.e from the southwanl. .Set sipiare s;iils, 
 water smooth, thick foi;. j p. m., met >cattered ice, 
 slowed down to half sjjeeii, hauled in patc'Ut loi;. 3 ]). m., 
 clear of ice, put out Io.l;. '> p.m.. .noin.n throu,i_;h loose 
 ice one hour and fifteen minutes, ])Ut out Iol;. Mid- 
 iii<;lit, \er\ thick fo^;, J^oiuL; half speed. 
 
 ?J()Ni»AV, Jri.N' II, A. M. — I'.e^ins as yesterda\-. 6 
 a.m., lifted little, went lull spic-d. 11 a.m., met thick 
 ice; went slow, \ei\ thick, hauled in Vv^. Xooii, ditto. 
 Xo obser\ation, !:;<>in!^ >low lhiduu;h loose ici' to the 
 easlwanl. 1 p. m., dense fo^;, ice .^.^eltiu^ liea\y and 
 thick, stopped the en,uini>, waited for lo^ to clear. 4 
 p. m.. ditto. Crew eniplo\ eil in ^hilliiiL; coal to bun- 
 kers, nlii-f part\' amu>im; them>el\es on an ice lloe. 
 7 J). 111., fo^ lifting, started followiu;.; lead> to tin.' eastward 
 towards the ('Fteenland co,i>t. MidniL;ht, ice \er\ he.i\y 
 autl close, stoppid, lou; lilted. 
 
Till-: LOG Of THE KITE. 
 
 '■-'J 
 
 Tfi.SDAV, Jri.v 12, A. M. — lU'^ius lK'av\- rain, ice 
 close, luriKil sliip's lie. 1(1 to the westward, .H'tiii.^; throiij^di 
 thick ice, slow. 5 a. 111., went li.ilf spi'cd. .Stopped 
 the enL;ines to renew air pnnij) and circnlatin^ pnnij) 
 valve. I) a. ni., slartetl, steaniin<,f slow thron^h loose 
 
 heav\' ice to the northward up the ( iri'cnland coast. 10 
 a. ni., >un came otil tor the lirst time in six d.i\>. li^lit 
 hrei/e from the nor^llea'^t and bearinn oil". Xonn, lati- 
 tnde 1>\ indilllaxnt ohsiTN .ition (1^ ^'.:'■ -' I'- "••• .^"t 
 cK'ar of tlu' ici', ^teamin^i alon^: tlu' i'oa->l in north water 
 towards! lodlhaal), fresh hrte/.e from northeast.uid cloiid\-. 
 

 \w 
 
 :-\ 
 
 ii 
 
 JJV A/^(T/C S/CAS. 
 
 6 ]). m., abn-ast of ( indlliaal). Midiii^lil, H.^lil 1)r(.'eze 
 and fine, abrrasl of l'isu^fd<. I'ji.ninc-s .^oiui^ full 
 spc'fd. 
 
 \Vi:i)M-;si)A\". ]y\.\ i,;, a. m. — Ik-^ins lii^lit brc-czc 
 Iroiii llif raslward ami fiiu-. straining- u]) llu- coast. 
 S a. HI., wind wiTcd to iIk- southward, coast shut in 
 with fo,L;, abreast <if S<.rnicrsut. Xoou, do. S p. m., 
 li.i;lil brcc/.c and wcrin^ off the land, crew cni])l()\cd 
 sliiftini;- coal to bankcr>, all possible sail set, parly en- 
 jovin.:^ an open air concert on the poop, piicliiiiL; (pioits, 
 etc. S p. ni.. oppositi' Holsicinbor^. S j). ni.. winds 
 \-eerini;- to the nortlieasl, slowed the scpiare sails and 
 altered conrsi' to northeast by east ^^ (.'ast. Midnight. 
 Hl^IiI brcc/.e and thick o\er the land, i-n^ines .^oini; full 
 speed. 
 
 'riHRSDAV, Jri.V i.[. A. M. — He^iiis li^iit breeze from 
 S. IC, thick hea\y weatlur. :; a. ni., mist clearing off 
 tlie land, saw tlu' land, also a i^reat nian\- icebergs in 
 our course. () a. ni., fnie. S ;i. m.. saw Disko Island 
 Ijuuinj;- east about fd'ty miles. steere(l for ( iodhax'u. 
 Xoon, \'er\' fine. 5.3" p. ni.. took pilot ami arrixed at 
 Lieveh'. 5.50 p.m. , drooped anchor in the middle and ])ul 
 stern line ashore. f'.,V^ p.ni.. i'rofessor I Ieil]irin ;ind some 
 of till' staff went on sliore to xi^it the (io\irnor. fired a 
 salute on entering; the port, which was answered b\ the 
 (lovernor on shore. i) p. m.. 'i;^ht breeze iVom the 
 northward and liii'-. (^ur iVicnds. tlu' mo^cinitoi'S, did 
 not lor^cl to ])a\ us .i \ i>il with their music. id p. m.. 
 all the part\' returned on board, haxiu.L; ^peciuRUs 
 
rill-, i.oc or 11 IF. Kill-:. 
 
 -.ii 
 
 ci)l!ic'ti.'(l Tor iluir (U|)arlnuiil>. .\rti-~t Slukrs l)ns\- 
 skc-tcliiiii;. Mi(lnii;lil, c-.iliii ami c-Kmv. ( )iu- D.ii'i^li 
 shi]) 1\ iiii; ill llir liailxir. 
 
 I'kih w, jri.N IS, A. M. — Uf.^iiis a> \isl(.nla\. ') a. in.. 
 slii|)"> (.'iiw lilliiiL; watii-, rlr. ni a. iii., all iIk partv- 
 k-fl llir >lii]) tor till' >li()i\\ iiitc-iidiiiL; a (la\"s liawliii!^ 
 
 AS^^isr \\ 1' r,(i\i u\<ii< c \ Ks ii-.vs, m-' disko. in tiii: m iTmn " 
 xi^itiiiL; till- iii(iuiitaiii> M\y\ colKrliii'^ >inciiiu lis nl" iiiUr- 
 (.■sl. Xddii, (111. I |i. 111., >iii.ill, r,iw, tVt>li lirct'/i.' iVoiii 
 S. W . - ]). 111., ]iarl\ caiiu- on lioaiil tiird and liiiiiL;r\, 
 l'finL;iii,i; lluir colk-climis willi lluiii. 'ldu\- no (liadil 
 did aiii|)K- jn>li('i' tt> tlirir diiiiur. Tlir ('idwriioi r.mu- 
 with tlk'in and iliiird. S. j^o ]>. m,, 1um\\ rain. Tlic 
 ( i()\ i-ninr and all of llir paiU ixliuiK-d lo llir ■-Ik.ic on 
 
Tisumtfr ' 
 
 J^^ 
 
 IN ARCTIC S/:,IS. 
 
 \W 
 
 \: 
 
 business. II ]). 111., all caiiK' on hoard and wc-u- xcry 
 jj^lad to !:;() to rest. Midnii^ht, rain, ck-aivd o(T {\\\v. 
 
 Sati-rd-W, Jn.v 16, A. M. — IWi^ins calm and fine. 
 9 a. in., part)' went on slioiv on bnsiiu'ss, onk-rs to sail 
 at noon, wratlRr pcrniittiii!^, for rprrna\ik. Li.ulit 
 hrcczf iVoiii llir wistward and fiiK'. i.^o p. in., ])arl\' 
 caiiif on hoard hrini;iii,L; seal skin cloth in.L;, t-'tc. , also an 
 Ivskinio interpreter. 1.45 p. in., sleaiiU'd ont of the 
 harbor, went lull speed toward rperna\ik. Xnnierous 
 icebergs, li^ht breeze from S. W. and li.^ht drojis of 
 rain. 7.^:^0 j). lu., put out loi:; at lUaafjeld, South I'oint, 
 brisk breeze from the southward, foi; han.^iuL; o\er the 
 niountains. 10 p. in., strou,t;- breeze, all s(piare sails set, 
 land closed in by foL;. Midnii^ht, rain lioldiu;.; up ay.d 
 clearing-, passing Hare Islaiul. 
 
 SrXDAV, Jn.v 17, .\..m. — Regius wind inoderating and 
 weather clearing. S a. in., line. Xoou, light breeze 
 and line. I'assc-d vS\arteu Huk. 4 ]). in., ])assed Kang- 
 arsiik about four luik'S olT, \er\- few icebergs, t^teady 
 breeze from the northward, etc., clear weather. i<>-3*' 
 ]). III., ])assiiig vSaudersnn's H()]X'. uuiuerous icebergs. 
 ii.V' P- 111., arri\ed at r]Hrua\ik, fired the regular 
 .salute which was answered b\- hoisting the llag on shore. 
 Anchored in ele\en fathoms of water, twenty falhoius 
 cable on the starboard anchor. Midnight, calm and line. 
 
 Mn\i)AN', Jri.\' iS, A.M. — Ilegins as \esterda\-. f)a.iu., 
 crew einploxed shifting co;il to bunkers. (^ a. iii., Pro- 
 fessor Heil])riu and ])art\' went on shore to pay the ( io\- 
 eruor a \-isit. Light breeze from the westward and fine. 
 
THE LOG OF lllli KITE. 
 
 233 
 
 II a. 111., jKirty came from the shore. 11.30 a. 111., 
 \vei>;lie(l aiiehor and steamed out of tlie liarbor. l"'ire(l 
 a farewell <;uii from the ship, as is the custom on arri\iii>>[ 
 and leaviii*;; i)ort on this coast. 2 p. m., ont>i<le the 
 island, shaped course X. 1",. hy Iv ah)iij4- the coast, fresh 
 l)ree/.e from 1{. I'ound numerous iceberijs. 5 ]>. m., 
 passed Kanj^ersuatsiak Island, wind increasinjj;-. 6 p.m., 
 stroiijj^, heavy liead wind ; makint,'^ very little headwa\-. 
 Midni.^'ht, moderatinjj;', sea t^^oiu!:;;^ down, altered sliii)'s 
 course to X. \\. 1)y \\. X. \\. for Duck Island. vShip 
 jj^()iii}4 full si)eed. 
 
 Ti'i;si)AV, Jn.v 19, a. m. — r>e,y;ins moderatin,^-, sea 
 .smooth, !L,^()in_n- full speed. 4 a. m., thick fo^. 6 a. m., 
 light bree/e, thick fo^;. vSlowed the engines to half 
 speed, 7 a. 111., distance run up for the island, 
 stojiped the enj^ine, calm with thick fo<4. <S a. m., saw 
 the island, foj^- too thick for boat to land. The ship 
 saw several \ery lari^e icebergs. Ship stoi)i)e(l, waitinji; 
 for fo}^ to clear. i ]i. m., fojL,'- cleared olT, steered for the 
 island. 2.30 ]"). 111., all the ])arty landed to shoot birds 
 and collect e,y;|L;s. vShip lyin^dlT the island, fine, clear 
 of fo<;-. 5 ]). 111., sounded whistle calls and all on board, 
 brou<j;lit with them ninet\- Ivider ducks and thn-e ^eese, 
 numerous icebergs. 5.3') p. ni., started half s])eed, 
 shaped our course X. \\. for Ca]ie \'ork, H.^ht breeze 
 from the southward. 7 p. m., li^ht fo^;. <>3<' ]>. m., 
 very thick, made a skirt of ice, stopp.ed ship for foL,'^ to 
 clear. Distance run from Duck Island is twtnl\-three 
 miles, course N. K. i\Iidiii<;ht, calm, with thick fo,t>;. 
 
■""'■"'WPP* 
 
 2.M 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 fiH- 
 
 vl/l 
 
 Wi'.DNivSDAV, Jri.v 20, A. M. — Hfj^ins calm with 
 tliick foi^s. 5. ■;() a. in., foj^ clcarud olT, went ala-ad fnll 
 speed. Jam of ice to the X. IC, steamed more to the 
 westward followiniL; the leads northward, lij^ht breeze 
 from Iv X. IC. <'). 30 a. m., fine open water, makint; 
 straij^hl course. 10.45 a.m., very lieav\' sheets, haviii.t; to 
 steam around them from X. \V. to east, but inakiii!^- ,i,'ood 
 onr course. Xoon, stopped for a (piarter hour, loosened np, 
 steaiiKd in <;-)0(l water to X. IC. 5 p.m., thick foj^, made 
 fast to a lloe. 6 p.m., clearin,!.,^ little, no water to be seen 
 north. Crew employed shiftin,^ coal to bnnki'rs. Mid- 
 ni.^lit, still 1\ in.L; to, lii^dit breeze from IC. vS Iv, thick fo^. 
 
 TiUKSDAV, Jri.v 21, A. M. — l)e,nins lij^lit breeze from 
 IC. vS. Iv., thick foL;. 1.30 a. m., fot^ clearin,^ olT, 
 steamed to X. \V. around a heavy sheet. 3 a. 111., _i,n)t 
 around the south corner, shajjed course X. Iv. Ljreat deal 
 of water to the north, .y;oin^- about six miles per hour. 
 9 a.m., \er\' thick, made a hea\"\' sheet, hove to, to await 
 a clearint;. 11 a.m., cleared a little, went ahead half 
 speed an)iind heav\ sheets. Xoon, do., distance made 
 o()od to noon a])out tliirt\-fi\e miles. 2 ]). m., weather 
 ver\- thick, ice also thick, stopped the engine. Distance 
 made in two hours about I'leveii miles. 4 j). m., clear, 
 went full speed ahead to X. Iv. I)\ Iv., lon.i; lakes u{ water. 
 S p. 111., thick fo<;, ice ver\ thick and in lan^e sheets. 
 vStopjX'd, distance made since 2 ]). 111. about twent\ - 
 .se\en iiiiles, fresh breeze from Iv. vS. Iv. Lii^lit snow. 
 II p. 111., fo<^ clearinj; u]), started lull speed. Midnight, 
 sighted Cape, bearing E. N. H. 
 
THE LOG OF rilE KITE. 
 
 -,vS 
 
 Friday, Jn.v 22, a. m. — Hci,niis brisk hat-'zc from 
 IC. vS. Iv, li^ht foj^s at tiiiK'S, stcamiii};- towards Cape 
 Vt)rk in loose ice and lakes of water. S a.m., wry thick, 
 lyinj^ clo.se to the shore. 9 a. m., stron-^ breeze. 
 .Steamed to an I'<skimo settlement. ICskinios cr\ in<r 
 kimo or Idnno, which means welcome. Made ship fast 
 to the standin};- ice, visited by the whole villaj^-e. 
 Professor Ileilprin distribnted presents sent from I'hila- 
 delphia, ^cttin.i;- all the news he conld ascertain of 
 Lientenant I'ear\- and party thront^h the interpreter 
 bronjjjht from Disko. Xoon, moderate weather, clear- 
 in_tj off, nnmerons iceber^^s in the bay between the ship 
 and Hnshman's Island. N'oon, toj) of the land covered 
 with fog. 3 p.m., started for the northward. _s p.m., 
 very thick foj;-, stopped the enj^ines to wait for a 
 clear. S p.m., foji; clearinj;- off, went ahead north ilono^ 
 the coast. 11 p. m., examined Conical Rock to see 
 if any cairn had been pnt np, conld fnid none, 
 .steamed awa\- for Wostenholme Island. Midni};ht, 
 steaminj;- alonj; by Petowik (ilacier, fresh breeze from 
 Iv. X. K. 
 
 vS.vrrKDAV, Ji'i.v 23, a. m. — r>e.y;ins fresh breeze 
 from Iv X. Iv, clear. 5-3'* -i- "i-> pjissint; the west end 
 of Wostenholme. vSawa i)ole erected on shore. .Stopped 
 ship close by, party went on shore to see if the\- conld 
 find any records. 6.30 a.m.. part\' came on board, fonnd 
 cairn with small cask containing- records, which wa.s 
 pnt on board the whaler /^sk/nios, captain Phillii)s, to 
 be landed here, if possible; took copy of captain's note 
 
F^ 
 
 2M> 
 
 IiW ARCT/CS/iAS. 
 
 Ii»» 
 
 k 
 
 and Ufl llir ca>k and a record in sanif place Xoon, 
 passed Cape l'an\ . 2.30 ]).ni., \\u\v to, olT Iuil)ln, some 
 kajaks came off from llie I'.skinio x-illaiL^c. I'lofessor 
 Hcilprin and l)art\ went on shore. Lii^ld brei/i' from 
 tlu' eaNlward ami lini', the shi]) laying off. .| p.m., pro- 
 fessor came on hoard, sent on shore sledj^es, also a lot of 
 lumber and other useful articles for the natives, also 
 jL^axe them from the ship a lot of powder and ^nn caps 
 which were greatly in demand, there were only three 
 !L;un caps in the whole X'illa^f, the population of which is 
 fort\ . 0. ^( I p.m., all business beinj^ done there we started 
 for McCorinick I>a\-. S. 30 p.m., ])assed around the west 
 Corner of Herbert Island, i 1.30 ]).m., arri\-ed at McCor- 
 uiick r.a\-, the winter ipiartirs of Lieul<.'nant Tcirx and 
 part\ . Messrs. Cibson, Cook and Wrhoeff and se\eral 
 Ivskimos came to \isit the ship coniiuL; to the .station. 
 Miduij^ht, li.<;ht airs S. \V. and fine. Xunierons ice- 
 bers^s in the ba)', too numeroirs to anchor, laid by in the 
 l):i\ . Lieutenant I'earx and .\strup not returned from 
 their travel north. Mrs. i'earx- and colored servant 
 camjK'd at the head of the ba\ . 
 
 Sixo.W, Jn.v 24, A. M. — r)e<;ins calm and fo.!j^,<;y. 
 I a. m.. Professor Ileilpriu and part\ went on shore 
 with shore part\ . 3 a. m., jirofc.ssor came on board, 
 steamed ship a little in the ice, made fast to the winter 
 standiu)^ ice. S a.m., do. \"odut\-, beinjj^ the Sabbath. 
 Noon, sent boat for the shore part\' to come on board 
 to dine. 7 p.m., ice broke off, .shifted to another berth, 
 ^lidniijht, fine. 
 
THE LOG OF run kite. 
 
 -'.^7 
 
 MnNDw, July ^5, A. M. — Ik-i^iiis (mIiu and fiiu'. 6 
 a. 111., cnw i'iii])l(»\r(l sliiftiiiL; i'i>al to liuiikcrs. i) a. iii., 
 rrnksx)]- lhil])riii Kit to ]ia\- Mrs. l\ar\ a \isil at tlif 
 luad of iIk' l)a\, Iwilw iniK'^ u]). Xonii, I'mi^lk'd 
 coaling;, lillini;- waltr, itr., rti'. Slii]) iiKiiurd to a small 
 icihrr^. .Still i-aliu. S p. ni., do. Midnight, (Vk, do. 
 
 IllMMiKKN' 111-.— Till-: "KITIC'S" l-TKTIIIIST I'oINT MiuTH. 
 
 Tii-'.sn.w, ]y\.\ -?'). .\- M- — lir^ins i-.diii, --liip >till 
 nioort'd tosniall icthirL;. 5.:^!) a. 111., tlir \valni> liuiiliiii; 
 ])art\- rrtunu'il, hioii^^lil om' n.iii(K-iT and oiK'sral. I'arty 
 luiiiu; ])r(.-lt\- Will usrd up soon wiiil to lluir hi'ds but not 
 till tlR'\- had llK-ir usual iVi'd. WvatluT (.■aim and \(.r\ 
 fine, ija.m., rrolVssor I kil]>rin rcttiniud, slipped from 
 till- ic'c'bii""': and slcaiuid a\va\ for lyittU'ton Island, li'jlil 
 
23« 
 
 IN AR'/C IC S/LIS. 
 
 \W 
 
 I!; 
 
 'il 
 
 breeze from S. W. and liiK-. 6.45 p. in., passed Cape 
 Alexander. S..J5 p.m., stopprdal Lillliton Island, strotij^ 
 bree/e from i.ist, slianud on towards I Inmboldl ( ilaeier. 
 Midnij^lil, mo(k-iatr and Inu'. Ship stopped by a solid 
 barrier of ici- reaeliinj^ aeross Smith .Sonnd from Cape 
 Sabine to Cape Inj^defuld. 
 
 \Vi;i>.\i;,si>Av, Jri.v 27, .\. m. — He^ins ealni and fine. 
 I a. m., saw sewral walrnses in the water, also some 
 on the ice. The relief part\ manned a boat and wiiit 
 awa\- after them. .\ a.m., rttnrned, havinj^ eai)tiired four. 
 Thick fo!^. Hauled them on a piece of ice and skinned 
 them. 10. 30 a.m., calm and clear, finished sk^tnlin<^^ took 
 them on board and steamed south for Littleton Island. 
 .Ml the ])art\- went on shore sliootinj^' walrus, liuiitiii<;, 
 etc., etc. 6 p.m., party all on board, brout^lil one yoiiu!:;- 
 walrus, started toxisit an iCskimo villaj^eat I'ort I'onlke, 
 Hayes's winter (luarters. Several walruses on pieces of 
 ice, boat went after them, but did not succeed in j^ettiii}^ 
 any. Killed one from the ship and <^ot it on board. 
 IT p. 111., party returned satisfied the \illa<;e had been 
 deserted. Uronii^ht a few relics from Hayes's winter 
 quarters, steamed south to call at Sontaj;- Hav. Midni.^ht, 
 rounded Cape .Mexaii'ler, bound south, calm and fine. 
 
 Tiirk.SD.w, Jii.v 2S, A. M. — IJe.nins calm and fine, 
 steaniinjj^easy. 3. 30 a. 111., arrixed olTSontaji; Hay, stoi>ped 
 the enjj^iiie, lay by, lot of loose ice alou'j;' the coast. 9 
 a.m., part\' went on shore, ship layins^f olT. Xoon, party 
 returned, found a deserted Ivskinio villa,^e, brought with 
 thcin a lot of relics from American or Ivnj^dish ships. 
 
 
Tin-: i.oc OF Tirr. kitf. 
 
 -'.V> 
 
 oiK' button was foiuKl Iia\iuj; till- K'tli IS tlu'iioii "l". S. 
 \.," also hrouj^ht a lot of ICskimo skulls from tlir j;ia\i'S. 
 4 J), in., pail) stalls for the shoii', takin«4 with tiKiii a 
 tol)()L;i;;an, and caih a small haj^jof clotlus with pioNisions, 
 to trv to j^ft up a ^laciir, intiiidin!,; to ritnrii ahont iiiid- 
 nij^ht. i() ]). in., party camt' olT to tlir shi])s, not Iia\in;^f 
 ht'i'ii ahlf to cliinl) tlu- j^lacii-r, had snppir and starti'd 
 tor till.' .short- aj^ain to tr\- it in anotlu-r din-ctitm. Mid- 
 nij^ht, c-alin and fiiu-, ship still lyiiiK ^"• 
 
 I-'kiD-W, Ji'l.v 2t;, A. M. — lU-o^Jiis as yistcrdav. S 
 a. 111., li<.,dit hrctv.f from .S. V,. and c-loiuh', i)arty not ix-- 
 tnriK-d. I 1. v a.m., party rttnriit-d, sncc-t-i-drd in e-liinh- 
 inn };lat'ic-r, and walki-d a ft-w niik-s to tin- inland ice, 
 absent from the- ship thirtc-t-n and a half hours. Startt-d 
 towards Cape Robertson at 2.^V' !'• '"•- -' ''-'X inside not 
 named on the chart, steamed in. Professor and two of the 
 party landed to exainine some deserted Ivskinio lints, 
 after laiidin<j;, found one faniih' in a lint, bron<;lit them 
 on board, <^a\e them some lumber and other serviceable 
 articles, and left at S p. ni. for M'.^Cormick Ha\-, where 
 we armed at 1 1 ]>. in. .Xnchoied in ten fathoms of 
 water, thirt\- fathoms cable, close in shore opposite 
 I'eary's winter (paarters. Mi(l:iiu;lit, cm'iii and fine, kept 
 watch as at sea, imnierons iceberi^s driftiiiji;- in the bay. 
 
 SA'rruDAN', jil.N' y<\ A. M. — Ilci^iiis as \esterday. 
 6 a. m., crew eniplo\ed shifting; coal to bunkers, ttc. 
 Xoon, ditto. 2 ]). 111., started to Rol)ertsoii \\\\\ to land 
 a part) on a (U-er-lmiuiiiL; excursion. b,V' l''iii., at the 
 point desin-d, where Mr. Hryaiit, Dr. Mills, Mr. Median 
 and Mr. Iviitrikin and ICskimo Daniel went (Jii shore, 
 
 ,.,ii< 
 
l^ 
 
 r^- BH - ^m mm m- w 
 
 24' 
 
 /A' .lA'C'/'/C s/:.is. 
 
 
 \W 
 
 H 
 
 l.ii 
 
 'I; 
 
 imvini; a wnk's prox isioiis, kit oik' dI llii- sliip's hoats 
 with llu'iii lo rc'ttini. TunKd ship ahonl and sltanK-d 
 hack to McConiiic'k \'>:\\\ wlurr \\c- arrixi-d at 7 p. 111., 
 and aufliorcd al (Uiv usual auclioriuL; phicc. W'ratlur 
 calm "iud fiiic Midni,i;lil, ditto. 
 
 SiNi>.\\, Jii.N' 31. A. M. — Hc^ins as wstirdax. 
 \\\allii.r sui |)risiu,nl\- line. Xo dul\' l(>-da\ , hcin;^ the 
 Sal)halh. We i^i't nur usual c(ini])lini'.ntary \isits iVoui 
 the h'.skinios. Three of I'eaiA "s pait\ dined ahuard. 
 Conlinued line throughout the twi'nty-four liours. 
 
 M()n:i>.\n\ Arcrs'i" i, A. m.-— IJei^ins as yeslerdas-. 
 6 a. ni. , i-onmuni'ed elearini^ ship, (.'Ic, and still at anchor. 
 Still awaiting tlu- arri\al of I.ieiitenaul l'ear\ from 
 his joiirnev. Artist on short' ])aiutini;, huntin<^ paity 
 not leturned. haid with \er\ \]uv weather. Xnnurons 
 while whales .^oiuu; up the haw 
 
 'rri;si) \\ , .Xrc.isr j, a. m. — Ik'^ins as yesterdax . 
 Calm and \er\- line. o a. ni., cool, employed on the 
 ri^,L;ini; and oilier work. I'rof. Ikilpriu and \'orse 
 went in I'.oat to coIIi-cl sLniish, hut i^ot \ery lew speei- 
 ni'.us. Xoon, ditl( weather. |.i5]).ni., hnnliuL; parl\ 
 returuid iVoni Kohertson lias ; securtd onl\ six .\rclic 
 liares. \\\at]Kr c-ouliuues \-er\ i\nv. S p. ni., all the 
 pail\ went on shore to play a ^aUR- of hasi'-hall. i i 
 p. m., all the parl\ canie on hoard and retired. 
 
 \Vi:ii\i:s;iA\\ .\rc,rs'i' ;,, a. m. — I'.e^ins as \esterda\ . 
 Calm and line. 10 a. m., parl\ wxut on shore to tujoy 
 tlieniseK-es, secMned to he notliini; particular. Crew 
 filling water, saw a line small salmon at llu' mouth of 
 the stream. W M., Eskimos went huntiu'- se.ils in their 
 
 
Tin-: i.oc, rv ////: ay//;. 
 
 241 
 
 kajaks, srcuad (Hk- lirartK-d >(.al and (nu- ><nin:^ wliiu- 
 wlialr. I if wliii'li llir iialuralisN srcuRil llii' skilrloii. 
 TIk- >it(iil was tiii(i\i(l \ir\ imuli 1)\' all. Xo si^n of 
 Liiiil. I'laiA anixiiiL;. Midiiii^lil, calm and ilm-. 
 
 'I'lMkSK.W, Ai c.rsr |, a. M.— lU',i;in> a^ \tskTda\-. 
 <) a. ni., how n]) and siraninl Im tlir lu-ad of llu- l)a\. 
 Mis. l'(.ai\ and i-i ili Hid scr\ant, Matlluw, y iinr(l ihr slii]). 
 I I . [ S a. ni. , ani'lK nid al llu- Iirad ( if \\\v bay, tin I'allii \\\\> 
 of wakr, nindd\ IxiUnni. Saw a '^wa\ (|uanlil\' of while 
 wh,di.>. I a.m.. ])arl\ landid to linnt, (-(illic-l >]>rri- 
 nuiis. rli'. ,=i.,V ' I'-iii., ,dl llu- |'arl\- p.-lnrm-tl on hoard and 
 rnnaini-d. Miilnii^hl. nioiK-r.iU- hn-r/r from llu- \. W. 
 and tViu-. 
 
 I'kliiAN, An.rsi' s. \. m. d!ri;in> nuidnaU- and 
 L-loud\ , I'ol; c"o\-i-rin;^ llu- lop of llu- laml. '> a. m., t!iit-k 
 \yy^ which conlinm-s nnlil 11 a. m. Xoon, fo^- 
 ck-avcd otV. Chief Male. .Secor.d kaii^ineer ami om- 
 S(.-.inian on shori- hnnlin;^ for L^anu , Tarlx inx-parin^ 
 si^n-po^l lo lake lo ihe ini.ind ice lo dii-ecl I\-ary on lii> 
 wa\ lo ihe ^hip. 1 ]). m.. all llu- ])art\ u fl ihe ship lo 
 carrx' oni iheir inUnlion a^ lo pnllin^ llu- ])osl>. ,S-,V' 
 p.m.. male .ii-i-i\-ed from hnnlin^, il^oI hiil few 1)ird>. 
 S.lW ihree deer .md SeNeial wild L^eese, hnl conld nol 
 i^el near llu-m. n > p. m. . dense fo^;. Calm. Midni^hl, 
 do. weallu-r. 
 
 Sa'ITi^ian, .\i(;is'1' m, \. \\. — lie^ins calm and fint'. 
 .[ a. m., heard .i^^uns Ininu; on short-, Ixi.il comim; hrin^ini.; 
 ihe relii-l" parl\, who wenl id pnl n]) siL;nal slalTs. also 
 Lieul rear\ and companion, Aslrn]», who .n-companied 
 
24: 
 
 /A' .lA'CVVi' s/:.}s. 
 
 ^i'. 
 
 liim ill his tra\i U north. \\\- lioisud >hii)'s lla^s, 
 and ihiA rrporUil i1k\ had an-oniuli^hi-d tlu- work tl;.\- 
 liad (.xpfcUd \\]]vn lhr\ slarli-d. Tlux limn^lit liw 
 doj^s iinl of >i\k-t.r. ihiy had whin ihrv slarl</d mi Uif 
 jonnii'v, ha\iiiL; I" kill llir dllur rltAtii U.v Uhh] for ilu' 
 RinainiiiL; (iiu>. I.inil. IVarv and A.-trnp in j^oixl iK-alth 
 and lo((kin,!^ wrll. Sa. in., t-alin : m' line ami all [\\v 
 parlv taking a u-sl. Ship slill 1> iii.14 al .iiichor at tlu- 
 hc-a<l (if thf 1)a\. Xoon. lVi>li hnc/i- fnnn 1-*. X. Iv 
 Paid niit cdiaiii lolhiilN falhoiiis. - p. ni., Liiiiti-naiit 
 I\'ar\- ;;>kt.(I fur >hip"s i-nw In i.;n nii ^hon- and assist 
 him to hrint^ hi> lni;^a.L;f from llir lop of iIr- (,-lilT>. which 
 \va^ \villin^l\ iloiU'. Rclitf ])arL\ too niiu'h fati^m-d to 
 };(i. ii.V'p-iii.. .nri\rd on lioavd with >ill hi> iITih-Is. 
 Midnij^ht. >lidnL: 1)I'(.i./a- and fiiu-. 
 
 SiNKW, .\rc.rsi' 7, A. M. — lU-i^ins as \tstrrda\. S 
 a.m., all \-(.-i\ (piict. \o in, -ironi^ Ihxt/a- from i-ast, !.;a\c- 
 chain to foit\ -fi\ r l"atlioni>. .2 p.m., I.irnttiiinl IVar\, 
 Pidkssor I kilprin and part\' >lartid tor I iu' shore. .\ltir 
 ont' hour rowing had ton turn, dtiiu'lu-d with water, not 
 liiinj; ahlf to rtni;in on shore. j; p. m., orikit-d sixain 
 at liand in ca • of ship driflin.L;. li'owinj,; Inaw. } 
 j). m., anchor st.irtrd, ship driftiiiL; towards sin >rr, wmt 
 (.•as\ .dR-.id, how lip tlu aiudior and stranu-d to tlu 
 wi atluT sidi' of till- 1)a\ , and la\ 1)\. M.^'p- m . -tartfd 
 moxiii;,^ down tlu l)a\ . rii^incs L;('iii;4 slow. 7 ji. m., 
 stnu'k on .1 shd.iland lod^^d. .SoinuU-d aronnd the ship 
 and found tli.it slu was oiiK caiiL;hl on llu- fon lo(;l. 
 ShitU-d a littlr iMV-'o from iorw.ird, i.nL;iius <'oinL; full 
 
SB 
 
 r. 
 r. 
 
■-•i4;.».'i.l*-i ■•: fii*^..,,*i. 
 
 
 m 
 
 ti'i 
 
 'ii: 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
Till-: I ah; ()/■' I III-: kiti-:. 
 
 -^J5 
 
 sptrd a>trni, --.iw a ])i(.i.'r i>f \.\\^\^- kicl lloal lip almi^sidi'. 
 S ]). 111., slid iiff ili( s]i()al. slii]) iiiakiu^ uo waUT, still 
 Miiwiii.H lKa\ \ , l\in!4 in iltij) wain. iii ]>. in., iiiuikr- 
 atiii.^ a litlU'. SlarUil di.w u llir l)a\ lowaitls ilu- station, 
 wlicii abuiii half \va\ down, llu- wind mttin^ i\\\\W 
 niodcralr, 1. i<l 1)\. lo ]>. in., st.irlfd down tlir !)a\', 
 cn^inrs i^oiiiL; slow. Mi<lnii;lil. hlow iiiu; lua\\. stiipind 
 'III' rii^iius and K t tin.- >liip driw down llu l)a\ loward.s 
 tlu- station. 
 
 Mii\ii\N, Aii.isrS, \. M. — iU'^iiis hlowiiiL; Ikmw 
 tVoin !•'.. \. I'"., oiii tlu- l)a\ . Ship drift iiiL; down, fia.ni.,. 
 alniast dl' tlu- station, (.losi in, lua\\ ^\\\\ on tlu- 
 hr.u'Ii, too iniu'li to land. la\ lortli .iiid h.uk w.iitin- lor 
 it to nioiU'iMU-. N'oon, no wiiitl <-K-,u sk\'. i p. in., 
 ino(k-i,ili-d .1 littk'. .Ships crt-w landrd. l.it-nl. and Mrs. 
 I'l-aiA iiisidr 1 pf Cap!.- CIi-\'t.-land .ilmiit iwo niik-s s.iutli 
 of llu- st.itioii. 1 ]>. n;., still lilowin^. | p. in., winds 
 nuiik-ra' iiiL.;. Midiii;^ht, ralni. 
 
 'l'ri-:.sli.\N , A M ,1 .s'l' I), \. M. — l'ii-L;ins i-.ilni .md i lond\ . 
 Ship K in;; l)\ in tlu hav. m .l in.. sU-.niu-d in closf to 
 tlu- station .mil .iiu'lioird t-xiit rtiii'^ tn take- on Ito.ird 
 I.ifiiti-nant I'i-.iia .iiid his rtTt-tis, Imt wi-n- L;ri,ill\ dis- 
 appointid llinlir.L; him and lii~ p,irt\ w\-ri- ,i;oin^ ,iw.i\- 
 in tlu ir l)oals nn .i htintiiu; <-Knrr-<ion "it" .i wi-ik's dnra- 
 lioii. l'rok-s-,nr I hilprin .nui -iiiuo!' his part\ dii 11.;- 
 iiiu; loi sprrinuiis ol' s^.i inserts, i i\-w cinplovid liilini.f 
 W.itil. rtr. I p. ill., stili r.ilni .ili'l t jolldv . A WW 
 MosxHiis (if siiow fill. Ik ilprin and p,nt\ l>iis\ ;;i t tin.^;; 
 ri-.id\ to ''o li\ Iiii.ii on .1 hui'.lin:: tom to Iii'-k fu Id ( riill" 
 
wr*"m 
 
 f 
 
 246 
 
 IX A/yHTIC SEAS. 
 
 \V^ 
 
 h. 
 
 '1; 
 
 or IkThL'il Island. Midni'^'ht, lij^lit l)ivc/c from vS, K.. 
 with small rain. 
 
 \Vi;i>\i;si».\\ , .Vi'c.rsT i(\ a. m. — P.e.^ins li,o;ht lircc/e 
 from .S. S. \V. , willi rain. 4 a. m., ditto weather. 
 
 6 a. ni.. lK'a\\' rain. S a. m., cleared otT a little, crew 
 cm])l()\(.(l shifting coal to bunkers, c^.^^oa. ni., ]);irt\- 
 left the ^hi|) for hunting- tour. Xoon, wind increasing- 
 with hea\\' rain. | ]>. m., hlowin.L;- hard, still rainini; 
 hea\\-. () p. ni., hea\\' Ljaie, ^a\e chain to forty fithonis. 
 
 7 p. m., anchor dro\e, steamed ahead slow whil>t hea\"- 
 in;^ np the anchor, no use to ,!L;i\e more chain, droxt- olT 
 in deep water, hea\y s(pialls off the land kept the ship 
 dodj^in^ forth and hack under the land. 9 ]). lu., 
 moderating; a little, rain holding np. Midni^lit, 
 moderati-. 
 
 'riiru.sD.w, .XrcrsT 11, a. m. — I'e.nius moderate, thick, 
 c!o;id\ weather. 4 a. m., calm. S a. m., ditto, ship 
 lyiuL; 1>\ in the l)a\\ none of tlie hunteis returned, crew 
 cmplowd at work on the ship. Xoon, ditto weather. 
 ■ 1 ]). m., iK.i\\- rain. S p. ui., ditto. I'V^v* p- m-< 
 .sudilen s(|uall from \',. S. I-".. Midnight, uiori- moderate, 
 thick, cloud\ weather. 
 
 I'lvinw, .Vrcrs'i' 12, a. w. — lU'^^i ns strong hree/c from 
 S. .S. \\'., ,uid cloudy. (a. m., li,L;ht showers. (< i. m., 
 moderate lij^ht showers of snow, steamed in clo.se to the 
 short.' and anchored in ten fithours of wat(.r. Tliirt\ 
 fathrans cable. Xoon, li.^ht \ariable winds, \-ery heavy 
 sky. 1 ]i. m., thick snow. S p. ur , ditto weather. 
 !Midni^ht, li.^ht breeze from !•',. vS. Iv, and frcshcniii'^, 
 
THE LOCr OF THE KITE. 
 
 247 
 
 still siiowiii.i,'- ;i little, none of tlu- Imutinj^^ parties 
 arrived. 
 
 vSa'itrdav, Arc.is'i' 13, a. m. — I'.e^ins freslieiiin^ 
 breeze from S. vS. IC, xcry liea\\' sky. i. v> ^i- m., Pro- 
 fessor Ileilprin and party returned in ship's boat, l)roUL;lit 
 with them as sjiecimens three walrus heads, whieh 
 the\- obtained whilst huntin.i^. 4 a. m., strong- biir/.c, 
 still snowiu";. S a. m., blowing; hea\\ , anehor holding; 
 ^^ood, i^axe a few fathoms more ehaiu. 10 a. m., niod- 
 eratinj;, sky elearini;. Xooii, line, strong; winds. .}]).m., 
 do. weather, no si^ht of Mr. Peary's party arrixin^. 
 IMidnij^ht, calm and fme. 
 
 Sr\i>A\', .Vrcr.ST i }, \. m. — P.e.^ins as yt-sti-rdaN'. 
 4 a. m., one of jjartx's l)oat> killed our reindrer and 
 one seal. S a. m., calm and wxy fuK, no dnt\ on 
 board ship, bciiiL; the Sabbath. Professor Jleilprin and 
 some of his party awa\ dredi^in^ for s]HeinK-ns of slu-ll 
 fish. SeenrLil some \ir\' fine oni>. Xoon, fini'. 1 p.m., 
 clouds'. S p.m., fresh bree/t- from tlu- southward wilh 
 rain. Alidni^ht, wimls iui're-asin^. Continue., to rain 
 hea\\-. 
 
 M()Xl>AN\ Aic.rsT 15, A. M. — P.ri;iu> blowing; hea\\- 
 from S. , vS. W. with liea\y rain. S. a. m., r;:i . huldiui; 
 up, wind incr(.a>in;^, i^aw chain to si\t\ fithom>. 
 Xoon, niocUTatiuL; a litllr, landi-d l(i-(lay. (; a. m., 
 clearin,^ up and niixK-iatin'.;, Ijut hard sipialls at iMUe . 
 Midnij^ht, do. weathir. 
 
 Tii;si).w, .\rc,; SI' if), a. M.--l!(.-ins with hard 
 stpialls fnon S. S. W. with rain. .Showers, fi a. m., 
 
i\V 
 
 24. s 
 
 //V ARC in si-:.\s. 
 
 II" 
 
 i 
 
 in<)<kT;itiii}4 and i-Kariu:^ oil" lnir. m a. 111., calm and 
 liiK', coiiiiiK'iK'i'd lakiii;^ xiiiuof I'iar\ 's >t(irt.> 011 Iioard, 
 boat not aniwd \(.l. A lar^c l(-l of itxhi-rj^s and drift 
 otilsidi.- iIr- has. Noon, lii^ihl, sariahlr airs and line 
 • I |i. ni , cIond\. IIow in slack chain to iliirl\ fathoms. 
 (\ p. m., rain, hnl still li.j^ht airs and conlinning till 
 midnij^ht. 
 
 W'l'.DM'.sn.w , Aic.rs'i" 17. .\. m. — I'.c^ins li.^hl, \ari- 
 ahli- airs, with lua\\ rain. | a. m., su<ldt.n s(|nall from 
 the southward .^a\c chain to lifl\-li\-c fathoms. it 
 a. m., still hard stpialls. S a. m., nKukratinj^, thick, 
 clond\ wiMtlur. Xooii, li,L;ht, \ariahlc winds, clcarir.L; 
 off line. IIoxc njt slack chain to thirty fathoms. 
 l'car\"s boat not arri\cd. (1 p. m., sndiU'n s(inalls from 
 ihi- sonthward, paid onl chain to liftx-liw fathoms. 
 S p. m., hiax \ i^alc. <> p. m., I'carx arri\cil iVom 
 Inj^lcficld (inlf, wind niodcralinj^. 11 p. m., moderate 
 and line. Midnight, calm. 
 
 'I'lUKSli.w, At(,rsi' iS, \. \i. — Ue^ins calm and 
 lint.-. I a. m., do. wcitlui. <; a. m., comnuiu'id tak- 
 wvj^ kieulenant l'iar\ "s thinL;^ on Imaiil. Second hoai 
 returnitl iVoni the luad of tlu- li.iv, which had heen 
 a\\a\ in si-arth o| oiu- ot iluir parl\ that went hunting; 
 and had not titnrned. (lot a search part\ lo look 
 loi' him. i.ienlenant l'ear\ and some I^skimo■^ ^oin^ to 
 tln' head of ihi- l)a\. .Ship started at .2. V' ]'• "•., with 
 lonr l'".skimos and I )r. Cook on Imaid for Rohin-^on I'.av 
 to stall in thai direclion, thinking he mi'^ht hi- tluri', as 
 two l'">kimo lamilus ie>ide there. S.^^o p. m., arrixid 
 
'////•; /.()<; ()/■ '/■///■: kiii-:. 
 
 2\y> 
 
 and wtiit (HI slinir. lie Iiad iiol hrni m.'iii. Sliauud 
 1. 1 th(.' rast sidi- of tlu- lia\ and stiil Iniir parties a\va\ in 
 ditH'irnt diurtiiins on ilu' srarcli, ship 1> inu; in tlu- l)a\' 
 wailini;. S p. ni.. calm and idondy. ii p. ni., llirci' 
 of llu- ])art\' Rtutiud lia\inL; shot two rtindirr. hrotinht 
 two skills and onr carcass of thi' nual. Mi(hii;^ht. cahn 
 and lini'. 
 
 I'kiD.w, Aici sr H), A. M. — r.i'.L;ins i-ahn and i'liU'. 
 2._V''i' '•'•- -dl the DartN utniMud, hrinj^in^; no lidinu;s 
 of thr missing; man Wrhfcff. IaI the slnp la\ to in tin.' 
 l)a\. <■) a. m., stc-anu-d ^lo\vl\■ all aionnd the hay (.wamin- 
 in^ till' sliDU' wry closrK for tlu- nii>sinn man. Xoon, 
 tnrnrd tlu- outer piiiiil toward Mc-C<irnut'k r>a\', still (.-xam- 
 inin^ tlu- coast close, u;rcat deal of scattered itx- in the 
 nucathof thel)a\. i \i. m., arri\-(.-il ni-arl\ at the head of 
 tlu- l)a\ where IV-arx's t'ani]) was pitched. Saw that all his 
 conipiiiN Wire- there. I*iofe»or Ikilprin went oii shore, 
 tlu-\ had not seen an\thin;; of the nnssim.; man. held a 
 consultation as to the ue\l mode ol" search and con- 
 clnded for all parlies to >i,irl in differc-nt directions 140- 
 in;; li\ twos and ihrees. 7.,V' p- "i., left tlu- ship lor 
 tlu- seari'h, auihori.l at the head of tlu- lia\. ten fathoms 
 of water, thirt\ fathoms of caliK- ou lari^i- anchor. 10 
 ]i. m., li,L;ht \ ariahle airs, fo'^ couiiuL; in tlu- hay. Mid- 
 niL;ht, fresh l>ree/e, thick murkv weatlu-r. 
 
 ."s \ rrUM \\ . Aii.iS'l' _'o, a.m. — Ilei^ius as \estei-da\. 
 "._^n a. m., lleilpriu's part\ returned to tlu- ship \-er\- 
 fali;.;ned. Crew emp!o\ ed shiftinL; t'oal to l)Uid-;e-rs, fdlin;.; 
 water, (.Ic. N'oou, do. weather. '> p. m., I<>.l;.u;\ on the 
 
250 
 
 /iV .-ih'i 7/1 s/-:.is. 
 
 \W 
 
 I 
 
 sliDif. atlniiKil with r.iiu. ii ]>. iii.. Iul; c-lt.ariii,L; olT. 
 l*n>rf»ur Ihil|)iiii dixickd lii> nun. siudiii^; a >(.aicli 
 ]iait\ (in laili ^iilr nf ilu l)a\. Tliirk, iloudy wiatluT. 
 Miilnii;l\l, wratlu 1 llir >auit.-. 
 
 SrM>\\, Arci sr _' I , \. \i. — I'.r.i^iu^ as yi-Urdas . ) 
 a. ni., winds noilli, li.ujlu. thick nimk\ wi'atlur. 7-.V' 
 a.m., 1 Irilprin's SI airh ]iart\ irtnins tn \\\v sliip, nul 
 tliR'i' dl" lVar\ 's siau'li ]i.itl\ hnt no liilin,L;s <>l" tlu' miss- 
 ing man. >".,V' ;i.in-. l'iar\ and tunr k'.skinms camr 
 1(1 thr ship .ifui fdilN hours' sra nil in. !4 for ihr missing 
 man \\ ihotif, l)rinj.^in]L; no lidinijs. Mali' and four nl" 
 thr iTiw siarud lV( mi llu' ship al 1^15 a. m. to s(.'arch 
 ahdiil ihr miiiin'aiiis mar ihi- ship. Xooii, IV'ar\ \k\\ 
 a.'.^ain lor Rohiiisoti l'>a\ to sl-;irl llu- sliori.' in hoat. 
 • 1 p. in., I', dm and liiu . Malr and parl\ anixi'd willi no 
 tidings. 5 p. 111., Iio\(.' up aiK'hor and slarlid for l\ol>- 
 insoii ll.iN , c'.dlin^ on llu- way to laki- on l)oard two 
 ICskiniO', also falliii!:^ at IVar\'s station to rominnnicatt.' 
 with M:s. lVar\. i 1 p. m., .mivid on tlu' wrst sidr of 
 lluhav. i'io|\ssor lUilprin W(.iil oil slion- to nati\i' 
 I^loo to tr\' to ast'iit.iin from tlu' l'",skiiiios if lluir was 
 aii\ tliiii'4 st'Lii of llu- missiii:; man. .\fl(.ra short linu- 
 i-'-turiud on ho.ird with no tidings. Movx-d ship up to 
 lu-ad ol llu- li.i\. MidiiiL^Iit, (.■aim and fiiu-, la\ iiii; 1)\-. 
 
 MiiM>.\N, ArcfS'i' jj. \. M. — iu-^iiis calm and \\\\v. 
 i.V'^iiii-. I<ii.nt(.-iiaiil l'(.-.ir\ ,111(1 lioat's (.'ii-w canu- to tlu- 
 ship to arr.mv^i.- with I'roU-ssor I h-ilpriu as to llu- (la\'s 
 si-aridi. '1 a. 111., calm and \cr\ line. <^,^|> a. m., holli 
 p.irlii-s lift for the shore, l'car\ \140i1iu; to nucl a parl\- 
 
Till': i.oc or Tin: kiti: 
 
 TSI 
 
 lli;il wivf lra\ilinj4 on llu' siaii'li iVoiu \\w luad of 
 McCormii'k r.a\ across lo tlu- luad of Rol)iii>oii Hay. 
 N'ooii, talni and \t.iy fiiu'. S p. m,, I,iinUiianl lVar\- 
 and two l\skiiiios caiiU' to llii- ship hriiii^iii}; with thciii 
 oiu' of Ihilprin's nun disahk-d witli a spraiiu-d km.*.'. 
 I I p.m., lUilpriii and all of both partiis anixi-d ha\in>4 
 foinid Iracis of llu' niissinj:; man. Saw his tracks and 
 other tracks to i-onxinci' thcni he has passed alonj;, hnt 
 no sii^n of him. Conchi(U<l to make one more search 
 to-morrow. Midnij^ht, calm and fine, 
 
 Tri-sit-W, .\rc.rsT 2^^, a. m. — I'.e^ins as yi-sti'rda\, 
 still Kinj:;- 1)\- in the hax. 10 a. ni., IVary's ])art\ left for 
 the shore for another search. Stronj^' bree/.e from the 
 southward and '[\\\k.-. Xoon, ditto weather. i p. m., Pro- 
 fessor Ileilprin and his ])art> left for the shore. Winds 
 moderating a litlli'. 4 p. m., weather the same. s.V'p-'"-- 
 IVar\'s part) retnrned <;ettin>.; no fnrllu'r tract.' of \'er- 
 hoelT. S p. m., Ileiljirin and part\' retnrned with same 
 ri'snlt. Held a consultation and a,i;reed 1)\- all parties 
 that nothing fnrther conld be done. <). i 5 J), m.. started 
 for IVary's station in McCormick Uay, lea\in!L; a cache of 
 ])ro\isions at Kern Point, near CajR' Robertson in case 
 tlu' man should turn nj) aflir the ship hail lift. i i 
 p. m., arrived at the station, anchored close to the shore, 
 twiKe fathoms of water. Midnight, calm and fine. 
 
 \Vi;ii\i;.si).w, Afc.rsi' j |, .\. m. — lie^ins as \tsterda\-. 
 K) a. m., commenced taking Pear\'s things on board. j 
 p. m., all on board. ho\-e npand started southward, bound 
 full speed, \ p. m., passed west end of Herbert 
 
IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 1.0 
 
 I.I 
 
 m 1^ III 2.5 
 
 -0 113,2 
 
 116 
 
 1= 
 
 1.8 
 
 
 1.25 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.6 
 
 
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 ► 
 
 « 
 
 J 
 
 Photograpl"iic 
 
 Sciences 
 Corporatiorx 
 
 ■^ 
 
 iV 
 
 « 
 
 :\ 
 
 \ 
 
 % 
 
 V 
 
 6^ 
 
 %^ 
 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, NY. MS80 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 
(p 
 
 .^ 
 
 
 i 
 
^^mrmmmmmmmmmmmiiKk 
 
 m 
 
 ii 
 
 252 /N ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 Island. Numerous iccbcrjj^s drifting out of Inglcficld 
 Gulf. 6 p. ni., calm and fine. Ship going full speed. 
 7.45 p. m., passed Cape Parry. Fresh breeze from \V. 
 vS. \V. vSteering for Saunders' Island. Midnight, light 
 breeze from S. W. Thick, hazy weather. 
 
 ICi: lUCRCS IN WHAI,!'. SOUND. 
 
 Thursday, ArcrsT 2^, a. m. — IJegins calm and fine. 
 1.15 a.m., passed the north end of Saunders' Island 
 going towards North Star Ikiy to Kskimo settlement. 
 3.45 a. m., olT the mouth of the ba\-, which was full of 
 ice and not able to get in. Turned ship out and steamed 
 full speed for CajK- York, loose panned ice all along the 
 south part of the bay. 3 a. m., passed Cape Atholl. 9 
 a. m., at Conical Rock. Heavy icebergs in abundance, 
 
THE LOC. OF THE KITE. 
 
 f53 
 
 also drift ice vcr\' tliick. Xoon, slroii.i;' brccv.c, luuilcd 
 sliip to the southward where ice was looser and iceherjj^s 
 not so thick. 4 p. m., stroni^ breeze from ,S. W. with 
 rain. Hauled ship to .S. W. Xo i)()ssil)ilit\' of i^ettin^ 
 to Cape York, decided to proceed to Disko. 6 ]). ui., 
 Cape York \\. 1)\' vS. about forts- miles. 7 p. ni., wind 
 south, lijT^ht snow showers, a \-erN- little ice in si^ht to 
 the ,S. \V. 10 ]). m., ice thick. Strong breeze with 
 snow .showers. I\Iidui<4ht, t^ot in ^chxI lakes of water. 
 Weather ditto. 
 
 Friday, Arc.r.s'r 26, a. m. — Iie,i;ins wind moderatin_n-. 
 Steaming through large lakes of wati'r and skirts of ice. 
 8 a. m., calm with light snow. Steaming through lakes 
 and loose ice to vS. W. following the leads as near the 
 the course as j^ossible. Noon, tliiek clonds- weather. Ice 
 thick. 2 p. m.,sawa I\)lar be;ir on an ice lloe, turned 
 the shii) towards him, and after a \i»lle\' of twenty-fi\-e 
 rifle shots, we killed him. .Steamed along-side the floe and 
 hoisted him on board. 4 p. m., shot a lioode<l seal, 
 lowered the boat and brought it on bo.ird. lioth the 
 seal and bear were skinned for specimeu> for the .\cadem\ . 
 Light breeze from the vS. \\. Ice scattered. 9.3') ]>. ni., 
 fresh breeze, got clear of ice, course vS. W. by ,S. Cloudy 
 weather. Lam]) lit in the cabin at 9.30 p. m. for the 
 first time since Juh' 12. Midnight, ditto weather, ice 
 scattered. 
 
 SaTUKD-VV, .Vrcrs'l' 27, a. m. — begins fresh breeze 
 from the southward and thick cold weather. 1.30 a. m., 
 got clear of the ice. Course S. \V. by ,S. Steaming 
 
'/;>>' .'V'" '>''''^^m!mmmfiimii§ 
 
 254 
 
 /N ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 |ih. 
 
 ' 
 
 about six knots. <S a. m., moderate weather with thick 
 fog, going full speed. Noon, calm, fog clears a little. 
 Sun .showing at times. Latitude, by indifferent observa- 
 tion, 72°. Altered course to south. 4 p. m., rain, thick 
 fog. 8 p. m., weather the same. Went dead slow. 
 Heavy rain. 11.30 p. ni., sudden squall from vS. \V. 
 Saw Kingartak Island on ])ort bow and Disko Island 
 on starboard bow. Course S. \V. Went ahead full 
 speed. Midnight, .strong wind and cloudy. 
 
 Si'XD.w, August 28, .\. m. — Regius increasing wind 
 and sea from S. W. 4 a. m., .ship laboring against a 
 heavy head, and making very little headway. Turned 
 ship's head toward Disko Island, close to the land. 
 8 a. m. , passed between the island and the main laud 
 along the coast toward Sigguk Point, going south. 
 Wind getting moderate to X. W. 11 a. m. , passed the 
 point. 11.30 a. m., pas.sed Cape Crouston. winds X. E. , 
 light, thick, cloudy weather ; numerous icebergs. 
 Shaped course S. W. by W. for Waigate Strait. 
 W^ind freshening, wind moderating and clearing up. 
 Steamed over toward Disko Island, taking the strait. 
 10 p. ni., .squally weather, with showers of sleet, snow 
 and hail, which continued mitil midnight. 
 
 ]\Io.\i)AV, .Vi'C.r.sT 29, A. M. — Begins strong breeze 
 from southward, with showers of .sleet. Close to north 
 side of Disko Island. Steering half-speed through the 
 strait. 2 a. m., more moderate and weather clearing. 
 Went full speed, heavy current setting northward 
 through the strait. 4 a. m., winds increasing to strongs 
 

 THE LOG OF THE KITE. 
 
 255 
 
 not making much headway. 6 a. m., moderating. 10 
 a. ni. , anchored in a small harbor at the south end of 
 the strait on the east .side. All the parties went on 
 shore collecting specimens. [Moderate breeze and 
 cloudy. 4.30 p. m., parties returned on board, bring a 
 large collection of fossils. 6 \). m., nothing more to 
 do. Hove up and started for Tyievely or (iodhavn. 
 Strong breeze from S. \V. from nine o'clock until 
 midnight. Midnight, blowing strong, with slu)wers of 
 snow and sleet. 
 
 TrK.SDAV, Ai'c.rsT 30, a. m. — Regius strong wiiul, 
 with showers of snow. Passed around vS. Iv. corner 
 Disko Island. 8. 30 a. m. , anchored at Lievely. vSaluted 
 the inspector b>- firing our small cannon, which was 
 answered with six from the shore. 11 a. m., fine 
 weather. Inspector, wife and daughter paid the ship a 
 visit, invited the party on shore and left. Crew busily 
 emploved shifting coal to bunkers. 4 p. m., light 
 breeze from the westward and very fine. 5 j). m., 
 finished coaling, cleared up decks and finished work for 
 the dav. ^Midnight, calm and fine. 
 
 WkdxivSDAV, ArciuST 31, .\. m. — IJegins as yester- 
 day. <S a. m., light lu'ceze from the southward. Crew 
 employed filling water. lunployed Eskimo to put 
 twenty tons l)allast on board. Noon, showers. 4 p. m., 
 snow. 6 p. m., fresh breeze from the southward. 8 
 p. m. , calm and fine. ^lidnight, same weather. 
 
 Thursday, SKPTKMnKR i, a. ^^. — Begins calm and 
 fine. 3 a. m., hove up and steamed out of Godhavn 
 
256 
 
 JN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 li'. 
 
 'I 
 
 ])()Uii(l south to Godthaal). 8 a. in., fre^li breeze from 
 X. \V. Set all fore and aft canvas. Xoon, fine ; lati- 
 tude 68° 34' X. Steaniin<; seven miles per hour. 4 
 p. m., .same weather. ]\iidni<.,dit, same weather. 
 
 Friday, Septkmbkr 2, a. m. — Beo-ins calm and 
 fine. 2 a. m., sr.w a small strins^ of ice. Hove to for 
 daylight. 4 a. m., went ahead full speed down the 
 coast. Xo ice in sight but a few bergs. 8.30 a. m., 
 took on board an Eskimo pilot and steered for the 
 harbor. 9 a. m., six more Eskimos got on board, took 
 their kajaks on deck and went full speed for the port. 
 Fresh breeze from the N. W. , and fine. 11.30 a. m., 
 anchored at Godthaab ship's haven, seven fathoms of 
 water, twenty fathoms of cable on port deck. Was 
 visited by the Governor and staff. 2 p. m. , all the party 
 went on shore. Crew employed filling bunkers, filling 
 water, etc. 10.30 p. m., all the party returned ; seemed 
 to have enjoyed their visit on shore. i\Iidnight, calm 
 and fine. 
 
 Saturday, Skptkmbkr 3, a.m. — Begins as yesterday. 
 9 a.m., all the party went ashore. Ship at anchor in 
 Ciodthaab ship's haven. ^lidnight, light airs from N. E. 
 All the party returned. 
 
 SuxDA^', Skptkmbkr 4, a. m. — Begins calm and fine. 
 9 a. m., light breeze from X. E. , all the party went on 
 shore to attend public worship, i p. m., some of the 
 party returned on board and others stayed on shore. 
 3 p. m., all went on shore and attended church, all 
 dined on shore, after which the day was finished with a 
 
THE lAX; OF THE KITE. 
 
 '-57 
 
 dance. Midnij^ht, fresh breeze from the eastward, and 
 cloudy. 
 
 Monday, vSiU'Tiaini';?- 5, a. m. — Beoins as >-e.sterday. 
 12.30 a. ni., all the party came on board dcli.^;htcd with 
 the day's doin<;s. 9 a. ni., <^ot up steam and wei<;hed 
 anchor, and steamed around opposite the inspector's 
 settlement where all the party went on shore at 10.45 
 a. m. Noon, the party returned from the shore, inspec- 
 tor, ji^overnor and minister, also their wives and friends 
 remained half hour and left for the shore with a salute 
 from our gun, was also answered on shore with cheers 
 and wavin*;^ of handkerchiefs. vSteamed out of the bay. 
 1.30 p. m. , passed Jakobsholm Island, put out patent 
 log and set course W. by S. Winds north and strong, 
 with pa.ssing clouds. vSet main topmast and middle fore 
 topmast stay sails. 3 p.m., set lower and upper top- 
 sails, pa.ssing .several icebergs. 8 p. m., fift>' miles, 
 stung breeze from north, and cloudy. Distance run 
 from 8 p. m. to midnight, thirty miles, fresh breeze and 
 cloudy. 
 
 TrK.SD.vv, SivPTKMHKR 6, A. M. — Begins strong breeze 
 from the northward, and cloudy. 4 a. m., moderate, 
 6 a. m., light breeze from N. W. Stowed the topsails. 
 Noon, light breeze from the southward. Sun obscure. 
 3 p. m., breeze up from S. K. Set the lower and upper 
 topsails, all fore and aft canvas set. 4 p. m., breeze 
 increasing, with cloudy weather. Set foretop gallant 
 sail. 8 p. m., winds increasing. Stowed top-gallant 
 sail and upper-top-gallant sail. Midnight, stowed 
 
■"^'mw^m^^mmmmmmmmmiltlli 
 
 258 
 
 /N ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 li" 
 
 W 
 
 \W 
 
 ifi 
 
 1: 
 
 gallant and maintop-gallant stay sails. Wind increasing 
 with snow showers. 
 
 WkdnKvSDAV, Shi'TKMhkr 7, A. .M. — Begins wind in- 
 creasing. Mist showers from the eastward. 4 a. m., 
 gale northerly with heavy head .sea shipping nuich 
 water, stowed npper topsails. 8 a. m., strong gale 
 from E. X. PC., with rain. Conrse S. W. by W. Xoon, 
 winds N. E. , still blowing, clearing np, altered conrse 
 to S. W. by S., making seven and one-half knots per 
 hour. 6 p. ni., moderating, sky clearing. 10 p. m., 
 moderating. Set npjKM- topsail and main top-gallant 
 stay sails. INIidnight, fine, set gaff topsail and spanker. 
 
 Thur.sday, SHPTivMr.i:R 8, A. M. — Begins steady 
 breeze and fine. Course vS. \V., making seven and a 
 half knots per hour. 2 a. m., showery. 8 a. m., sky 
 cleared very fine. Xoon, do. weather. Latitude obser- 
 vation 55° 53' X. P. M., crew employed shifting coal 
 to bunkers. 6 p. m., calm, saw the land bearing \V. , 
 which proved to be Cape Harrison, about twenty miles 
 distant. Altered course to S. by E. 8 p. m., light 
 breeze from S. b>' W. Stowed fore and aft canvas, 
 going full speed. Cloudy weather. Midnight, light 
 breeze from the eastward and cloudy. 
 
 Friday, Skptkmhkr 9, a. m. — Begins light breeze 
 from the eastward and cloudy. Set fore and aft can- 
 vas. 2.30 a. m., passed a barkentine bound north. 
 6 a. m., sky clearing. 10 a. m., fine. Xoon, do. 
 weather. Saw Woolf Islands bearing X. W. Latitude 
 observation 53° 39' X. 1.40 p. m., passed around Hill 
 
THE LOG or THE KITE. 
 
 259 
 
 Island. Set patent log conrse S. W., one-half vS. Wind 
 N. by E. Steady breeze. Saw several schooners ruiniing 
 sontli on the inside. 4.30 p. ni., Hawks Island at \V. 
 by X. ten miles. Altered conrse to S. by W. Fresh 
 breeze from the northward. S p. ni., fine. Several 
 fore and aft schooners in company bonnd sonth. Mid- 
 night, light breeze and fine. 
 
 Saturday, Skptkmhkk 10, a. m. — Begins light breeze 
 from the northward and fine weather. 2 a. m., pas.sed 
 two steamers bonnd east. 4 a. m., weather do., fresh 
 breeze. Set all possible sail. Ship making seven and 
 a half knots per honr. All onr party on deck employed 
 cleaning paint work, etc. ]\Iidnight, steady breeze and 
 fine. Altered conrse to S. S. W. 
 
 Sunday, Skptkmiskr 11, a. m. — Begins steady breeze 
 and fine. 8 a. m. , altered conrse to S. W. by W. Saw 
 Baccalien bearing S. W. by W. one-half W. 11.30 a. m., 
 passed sonth end of Baccalien. 4.30 p. m., arrived at 
 St. Johns, hanled ship to owner's wharfend. Mid- 
 night, calm and fine. Night watchman employed from 
 the shore. 
 
 Monday, September 12, a. m. — Begins moderate 
 breeze and fine. 8 a. m., do. weather. Noon, em- 
 ployed a diver to examine the ship's bottom. After a 
 carefnl examination reported nothing serions amiss. 
 Lloyd's snrveyor passed her to make a voyage to United 
 States. Midnight, fine, night watchman employed. 
 
 Tuesday, September 13, a. m. — Begins moderate 
 breeze from the westward and fine. 6 a. m., shifted 
 
 
 ■ -v - 
 % - 
 
I'' I 
 
 260 
 
 IN ARTCIC SEAS. 
 
 ,H, 
 
 
 tl; 
 
 m 
 
 around to berth for coalin<r. S a. m., j^'oplc I'liiployed 
 from the short' pntliii}^ coal on hoard. 4 p. ni., finished 
 coalinj^-. 6 p. ni., watchman cmi)lo\cd from the shore. 
 Mi(hii}4lit, moderate and fine. 
 
 WkdM'.sdav, vSin-'ri'MiiiCK 14, a. m. — IJej^ins clear. 
 Employed <;ettin_i;- ship read\- for sea. Xoon, li,<;ht 
 breeze from vS. Iv 4 \^, m., backed ont from the wharf 
 with pilot on board. Steamed down the harbor amid 
 .cheers and wavin;; of handkerchiefs from the people on 
 shore. 4.30 p. m. , passed thronj^h the Narrows. 5 p. m., 
 pas.sed Cape .Spear and shaped course S. W. ]i S. Put 
 out jxitent lo*^. Fresh brec/.e from W. S. W. 10 p. m., 
 pa.ssed l'air\land Head Li^ht. Midnight, tliick, hazy 
 weather. 
 
 Thir.sdav, SkpTK.mhhr 15, A. M. — Begins fresh 
 
 breeze from S. W. Thick, hazy weather. 2 a. m., 
 
 clear. Cai)e Race light W. X. VV. about six miles. 8 
 
 a. m., thick fog, whistle blowing at short intervals. 
 
 10 a. m., fog lifted, saw a schooner bound east, lumber 
 
 laden. Noon, passing fogs, fresh breeze from the 
 southward. Set all fore and aft canvas. Kngines full 
 
 speed. iCst. distance run from Cape Race seventy miles, 
 course \V. ij S. 4 p. m., winds increasing. 6 p. m., 
 rain showers with strong breeze. F'urled upper main- 
 top-gal laut-sta>sail and ga(T-topsail. ^lidnight, heavy 
 rain. 
 
 Friday, Skptkmbkr 16, a. m. — Begins strong breeze 
 from the southward. Heavy side sea. 2 a. m. , heavy 
 rain attended with much lightning to the southward. 
 
THE LOC. Oi- THE KITE. 
 
 261 
 
 Stowed lower iiiain-U)p-.i;allaiit-staysail and staiulin>; jib. 
 
 5 a. 111., rain ckariii!:; olT. Xooii, siuldeii chaii<;e from the 
 westward. Stowed all fore and aft canvas. Hea\\' side- 
 roll. Whole distance made from ycsterda>- noon, 141 
 miles. Ship }j;oin<;- her course W. '.• S. 2 p. 111.. fresh 
 breeze from \V. X. \V. and clear sk\-. vSea fallin<^'^ down. 
 4 p. m., .sounded twent\-one fathoms, <;ray sand and 
 shells. S ]). 111., fresh breeze from the westward. 
 Ship steeriuj^ four knots. vSouuded twenty-three 
 fathoms on south part of Ikuiquereau. Midnight, do. 
 weather. Latitude by indifTerent observation 45° i' X. 
 Engines full s])eed. 
 
 Sati'RD.w, vSi';i'Ti;.'\riiKK 17, a. m. — Ik'jjj^ius fresh breeze 
 and cloudy. 4 a. m., passed a fisherman at anchor. 
 Wind west. Xoon, fine. Whole distance run from 
 yesterday noon, 107 miles. Latitude observation 43^' 
 4.S'. Crew employed shiftinj>;coal from hold to bunkers. 
 4 p. 111., passed an American fisherman bound cast. 
 
 6 p. m., fresh breeze from west. vSmooth water, altered 
 course to west. ^liduij^ht, do. weather. Kuoincs full 
 speed. 
 
 Sunday, Si:ptkmrkr iS, a. m. — Bcj^ius stroiio; breeze 
 from the westward and fine weather. <S a. m., do. 
 weather. Xo duty, bcinjj^ the vSabbath. Xoou, stron.L; 
 breeze and fine. Latitude obs. 42^ 53' Xorth lonj^itude 
 by chronometer. 4 p.m., 62° '>y'^' West. S p. m., do. 
 weather, makiii<i[ four knots per hour. Wind incivasiuir 
 a little. Midni<j;-ht, heavy head sea inakin«^ three knots 
 per hour. Euj^ines goin,i;- full speed. 
 
 
262 
 
 IN ARCTIC SFAS. 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 t ■ 
 
 MoXDAY, SHi''n;Mi!i".i< 19, a. m. — Begins as yesterday, 
 6 a. in., stroM}^ bivf/.c, ship not niakinj^^ much way. 
 Set fore and aft canvas niakin<^ W. hy X. course. S 
 a. ni., do. weather and very fine. 10 a. ni., Allen line 
 steamer passed Kast, Harj^en in sij^ht, reachinj^ south. 
 Xoon, fresh breeze from W. vS. W. and fine. Lat. obs. 
 42° 29' N. Whole distance by patent lo<;, loi miles, 
 p. m., crew emjiloyed shiftinjj^ coal from hold to biuikers. 
 5]). m., moderating; and cloudy. vStowed fore and aft 
 canvas, j^ave coin^se W. by S. ji S. S p. m., few 
 flashes of li<;htuini; to the westward. 1 1 \). m., wind veer- 
 ing to N. E. Midni^dit, fresh breeze from X. K. with 
 .showers of rain and heavy lightnin<;. 
 
 Tuesday, Ski'TKMijkr 20, a. m. — Begins increasing 
 breeze from X. K. with heavy rain showers and heavy 
 flashes of lightning. Set main topnmst and middle 
 staysails. 4 a. m., set spanker and fore topmast stay- 
 .sails, 6 a.m., weather clearing ofT. Wind X. X. E. 
 Set lower topsail. 9 a. m., moderating and fine. Set 
 foresail, upper topsail and main-top-gallant-staysail. 
 Noon, steady breeze and clear sky. Set fore-topsail and 
 gaff-topsail. Whole distance per patent log, 156 miles. 
 Lat. obs. 41° 19' X. 4 p. m., moderating. Midnight, 
 moderate and flue. Engines going full speed. Saw a 
 New York pilot boat. 
 
 WKDXK.SDAV, Sia'TKMHHR 21, A. M. — Begins Steady 
 breeze from X. E., and clear sky. 2 p. m. , .saw two 
 steamers bound east. 8 a. m., moderate, veering around 
 to the S. E. 8 a. m., stopped the engines to renew 
 
IIOMIv AC.AIN " — TItp; "Krri:"AT Till': UIIAKI' in 1'IIII.AI)1:I.1'HIA. 
 
\h 
 
 <" """"' .i-«»'>'?M<nnpipiH|ii||||||| 
 
 1. 
 
 r, I 
 
THE LOG OF THE KITE. 
 
 263 
 
 circnlatincr pmnp valve. Delayed one hour and started 
 ao;ain. Noon, strong- light breeze from X. E., and fine. 
 Latitude obs., 39° 49' X. whole distance run for 
 the twenty-four hours, 1S4 miles. P. .M., fine, crew 
 employed shiftingr coal to bunkers. :\ri(lnight, light 
 breeze from S. E., all possible sail set. Sounded ninety- 
 one fathoms. 
 
 Thursday, Septkmrkr 22, a. M.—Hcgins light breeze 
 from the S. E., and fine. 2 a. m., cloudy. 4 a. m., 
 sounded forty-three fathoms. 6 a. m., light rain showers. 
 8 a. 111., sounded thirty-one fathoms, grey sand and 
 shells. Altered course to W. b\- S. Xoon, cloudy. 
 Whole distance run, 180 miles. r. 10 p. m., took on 
 board Philadelphia pilot, and steered for the Delaware. 
 3 p. m., passed close by Five Fathom Shoal light vessel. 
 
 [kxd ok log.] 
 
 %^ ;i' 
 
;*' 
 
 if' 
 
 ,rr 
 
 i 
 
 ■ '■ liijmmmmmmmmHHIKtKi 
 
THE PEARY RELIEF EXPEniTlON. 
 
 (For the narrative of the " Relief of Peary" we are indebted to 
 Wm. E. Meehan, Esq., Associate Editor of the Philadelphia " Public 
 Ledger," who was the botanist of the relief expedition.) 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 Thk Rei.ikf Expkdition-.— Its Coxckptkin.— Goons for Frkk 
 
 DlSTRIHUTKJN AMONG Till: XoRTHKRN IvSKIMOS. — SkI'TCMHS 
 OK THK MKMUERS of THU Kxi'EDITlON. 
 
 ^T^HK West Greenland Expedition had scarcely 
 -L returned from IMcCorniick P,a\- when nian\- people 
 be^an expressino; fears for the safet\- of the Pear\- jxirty. 
 These fears were parth- the result of a srcneral belief, 
 grounded on the various books of Arctic travel, that 
 lengthy residence in Xorth Greenland was neces- 
 sarily attended by frightful hardships, and partly 
 the effect of numerous newspaper articles which 
 took a pessimistic view of the situation. It was argued 
 by the writers of these articles that Lieut, and Mrs. Pearv 
 and their companions had not been supplied with 
 sufficient provisions and fuel to carry them through the 
 rigors of an Arctic winter ; that the accident by which 
 Lieut. Peary broke his leg in Melville Pay, on his way 
 north, would not only interfere with his proposed journey 
 in the spring over the inland ice, but actually jeopardize 
 
. imum'iJimmmmmtmmmm 
 
 268 
 
 /N ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 Ml 
 
 % 
 
 'F 
 
 '1: 
 
 the lives of the wliolc party, and lastly, that if the 
 inenibcrs of the expedition did pass throui^h the winter 
 without freezing- or starvin,"; to death, it would be impos- 
 sible for them to make a safe retreat in open boats from 
 McCormick Bay to Upernavik, a distance of more than 
 600 miles. 
 
 Those who were best acquainted with the Arctic 
 re.i(ions and with Lieut. Peary and with the careful con- 
 sideration he had given the matter of provisions and fuel 
 had no concern as to his or his companions safety duriuj^ 
 the lon.i^- winter night in Greenland. But the fears that 
 the party could not successfully make its way south- 
 wardly through the dangerous ice-packed Melville 
 Hay in ojien whale 1)oats seemed well founded to 
 almost everyone. Morever, the proposed journey seemed 
 to many to have added precariousness when it was 
 pointed out that the members of Lieut. Peary's party 
 were not accustomed to the kind of craft they would be 
 obliged to use, and that as a consequence, however 
 hardy they might be in other respects, they would uot 
 be able to stand the strain demanded of them. Among 
 those who held these view\s concerning the boat journey 
 were many members of the Academy of Natural vSciences, 
 and thev fiuallv discussed the advisabilitv of sending an 
 expedition to the relief of the explorers, and in the end 
 formallv made such a proposition at one of the winter 
 meetings. There were a few slight objections raised by 
 some at the outset, but these were over-ruled, and in 
 March, 1892, the x\cademy of Natural Sciences decided 
 
 I i 
 
THE PEARY RElJIll- EXPEDITION. 
 
 269 
 
 that a relief party should Ik- sent out under its auspices, 
 with the proviso, however, that the funds required should 
 be raised by subscription. Professor Au<;elo Heilprin, 
 who had made an efficient liead of the West Cxreenland 
 Expedition in iSc^i, was appointed leader of the one 
 now decided upon. It received the title of the Peary 
 Relief Exi)edition, and the scientific body fosterinjj;' it 
 apjx)inted a committee consistiui^ of Professor Anj^elo 
 Heilprin, chairman ; Cravin P). Hart, Uselma C. Smith, 
 Dr. Benjamin Sharp, and Dr. Dixon to assist in raisinji; 
 the funds and in makiuj^ the necessary arran,y;'enients for 
 the \-oyai>e. 
 
 Althoui^h $10,000 was the sum named as needed, that 
 amount was practically raised by June i, and the A'/A', 
 the staunch little vessel which had taken the North 
 Greenland and the West (Greenland expeditions the pre- 
 vious year, was chartered in St. Johns, and j^cniai 
 Captain Richard Pike, of Harbor (irace, Newfoundland, 
 who had proved his skill in Arctic navi<;ation on the 
 first voyao;e of the A'/A', was aj^ain secured as its master. 
 
 In the meantime Dr. Joseph T. Rothrock, of West 
 Chester, who is prominently known in Philadelphia as a 
 lecturer on botanical topics, conceived the hapj)y and 
 philanthropic idea of sendinir a quantity of wood for 
 slcd<res, kajaks and harjwous ; of iron spear heads and 
 household utensils, to be distributed as i^ifts amou.<,»- the 
 Eskimos, whose settlements are on the west coast of 
 Greenland, at Cajx' York and abo\-e. As trees are 
 unknown so far north, and as the people have no 
 
270 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 >1" 
 
 ii' 
 
 facilities for smelting what little iron the country 
 yields, these articles would be invaluable to them in their 
 struggle for existence ; besides, their good-will and 
 friendly disposition might be of incalculable service to 
 the relief party in furthering the object of their setting 
 out. It is, therefore, little wonder that Dr. Rothrock's 
 benevolent scheme met with immediate and cordial sup- 
 
 WATCHING FOR SKAI,. 
 
 port. From well-known residents of his home, in West 
 Chester, came generous contributions. In Philadelphia, 
 Professor Edwin J. Houston, head of the Department of 
 Physical Oeograpln' and Natural Philoso])hy at the 
 Central High School, was perhaps the most interested 
 in this proposed good work, and through him a large 
 
 (I, 
 
H 
 
 Tin-: PEARY RELIEF EXPEDiriON. 
 
 271 
 
 qnantit\- of articles and considt'rahlc money was contri- 
 buted. Professor Heilprin, on the part of tlie members 
 of the relief expedition, cheerfnlh' 
 promised to faithfulK- carry out the 
 wishes of the donors. Into his charjij-e 
 were _t;iven six Arctic sleds, twenty-five 
 spears made from files donated bv 
 Hoopes, Ih'other »S: ■ adinj^ton, 100 
 IT-s^^l'^^S'):^ liickor_\- spear handles, fort\'-eij;lit 
 \ ''*' spools of copper wire, 1 2(i butcher 
 
 knives, thirt\"-two poiinds of ho()]> 
 iron, loS thimbles, 1000 assorted needles, a <^reat num- 
 ber of files of various sizes and patterns, al)out two 
 
 dozen iron kettles, a dozen cleavers, two dozen saws, 
 
 many scis.sors, thimbles, hammers, braces and bit.s, 
 
 planes, and a lar^e quantity 
 of cut lumber. 
 
 The \cad mu\- of Natural 
 vScieuces, besides entrustinir 
 the leadership of the expedi- 
 tion to Professor Heilprin, 
 
 oave another proof of its confiiknce in him by leaxin^; 
 
 to his judgment the selection of those who were to 
 
 18 
 
 m 
 
^""^mimm^mmmm 
 
 ■■M 
 
 372 
 
 IN A/^CTIC SEAS. 
 
 m 
 
 
 
 % 
 
 acconipaiiN- him, and Ik- chose the roHowinj^ as his cotn- 
 panioiis : 
 
 Hfnr\- (i. r.ryaut, srcoiul in connnand. Althoui^h a 
 yoiuiL; man, he lias a j^ood record as a li\ueler, lia\in}^ 
 journeyed oxer Northern Africa and ahnost e\er\' 
 country in luirope, and ]>retty nuich the whole of the 
 United .States. His greatest achie\'enient, ho\ve\er, 
 was in 1S91, when he led a small part\- to the (ireal 
 Falls of Labrador, 350 miles into the interior of that 
 almost unknown country, and was the Hrst to ascer- 
 tain their heii^ht, 316 feet. Pre\ious to his visit, 
 hut two white men had e\ei seen this <;reat body of 
 water. 
 
 William Iv Meehau is an associate editor of the Phila- 
 delphia I'liblic lA(i<:;ii\ and was its staff correspondent on 
 the vt)\a,ne. He is a son of Professor Thonuis Meehau, 
 of (iermantowu, vice-president of the academy and a 
 .scientist of note. To him w;is entrusted the botanical 
 work of the expedition. 
 
 F. W. Stokes, the third member of the jxirtN', is an 
 artist. He was cn5>ai;ed by the publishers of Scr/hiivrs' 
 A/ai^aziin' to make sketches for them durin_^- the voya,i>e, 
 and all the time that coidd be spared fu)m his duties as 
 a member of the expedition were to be devoted to that 
 pur]K)se. 
 
 Albert White \'orse is the exchauj^e editor of the 
 Philadel])hia /'rcss. 
 
 Sanmel J. luitrikin, the photographer of the ])artN-, 
 is a native of this State. Until a \ear a,i;o he was 
 
:i:>; 
 
 THE PEARY RELIEF EXPEPl I ION 
 
 -/,•> 
 
 vSu|)(.rintc'ii(k'iit of Iiuhistrics in the vScliofitld Xonual 
 and Iiuluslrial vSc1uh)1 al Aikc'ii, vSouth Cadina. 
 
 Dr. Jackson M. ]\Iills, the sur«;von and i)h\sicMan of 
 the i)arty, is a natiw of Detroii, Mich., l)ut for tlic jjast 
 four years he has resided in Xew York. 
 
 Charles Ivlward Mite, tlie taxidermist of the exjiedi- 
 tion, was for some time assistant to Professor Dyche in 
 the State rni\ersit\ of Kansas. 
 
■■■■■■I 
 
 ciiai'TI':r II 
 
 
 TlIlC STAKT.— TlIK MiKANDA. — I'Kcm HK()0KI,VN to IIamkax — 
 
 In a Di'.NSi': l"oc,. 
 
 ALIy arraii.t;(.iiiciils for the voya(;c havitijj^ been 
 ■ completed, llie ineni])ers of tlie Peary Relief 
 Kxpedition assembled in lirooklyn on Monda>-, June 
 27, and took passas^e on the steamshij) Mirniiifa, which 
 jilies between that port and St. Johns, Newfoundland, 
 where the A'i/c was in waitin*;'. The vessel was adver- 
 tised to lea\e at four o'clock in the afternoon, and the 
 announcement that the members of the relief expedi- 
 tion were to be passengers, attracted a lart^c number of 
 people to Robinson's wharves where she was lyin^-. 
 Amon}^- them were friends and relatives of the departin,^,^ 
 voyaj^ers and of several of the members of Lieut. Peary's 
 party. When the hour set for departure came, Mr. 
 Stokes was not on hand, althout^h his ba.i^j^^aj^e, with 
 which he had ])reviously had trouble, was safeh- on 
 board. The steward of the Miranda was likewise con- 
 spicuous by his absence. For these a wait was deemed 
 desirable, althoup^h the captain walked up and down 
 the deck frcttino^ and fumin<>; at the delay. He, never- 
 theless, manajj^cd to restrain himself within reasonable 
 bounds for an hour, when, on the belated ones not 
 appearing, he declared he could .vait no longer and gave 
 
 ■.'71 
 
Tim PEA A' ) ■ REL I El- EX PEP I T/ON. 275 
 
 orders to cast olT. This had scarcch- been done, and 
 the Miiaiuia l)e,ntin Id ni()\e, when Mr. .Stokes a])peared 
 red and excited on the wharf llonrishin}^ a l)nndK' in 
 one hand, and shontinj^ londl\- to be taken on board. 
 Two of th;- members ran forward, and as the Mirandii 
 moved sU)wl\ ont of the (h)ck, seized him by tlie arms 
 and (b'aiL^j^ed ■■ini, in not the most dij^nified manner, 
 over the si'le. 
 
 Amid tile cheers of the hiri^e .t^atherinj^' of friends on 
 tile wharf, and the blowinj;' of steam wliistles from the 
 many ships in the harbor, the Miiaiuht turned sU)wI\- 
 northward and carried awa\' the party. All the mem- 
 bers were cheerful and discussed brii^ditly the jn-ospect of 
 fnuHn<^ Lient. Peary and Mrs. I'ear\- and their com- 
 panions, and of brin<4iii<;- them back safel\-, and dexonred 
 at the same time the contents of a maiLj^nificeiit basket 
 of fruit, which had been sent them by Mrs. Cook, the 
 mother of Dr. I'. A. Cook, then in McCormick I>a\'. 
 
 After leaviii!^ the wharf in P.rooklyn the M/niiK/a 
 .steamed \\\) the Ivist River, tlirou.nh Ilell (iate and into 
 Lonjj;- Island Sound, and by n'oniint;- was pitchiiiiLi- and 
 tossinji^ in the open Atlantic. Those who were unaffected 
 by this motion thoron.nhly enjoyed themsehes, notwith- 
 standin_y; the fo,^-, which obscnred all distant vision. A 
 lari^c flock of Mother Carey's chickens followed in the 
 vessel's wake, di\-in,i;, nyin<; and swimmin.t;-, ea.s^erh' 
 snapjiin.t^ up any bit of food which mi^ht be thrown 
 overboard. Hesides these the waters about the \-essel 
 seemed to be alive with jelly fish, and Mr. llitc, the 
 
276 
 
 /A' ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 W 
 
 \x\ 
 
 \ 
 
 taxidermist, was fortuiiatf cnoiij^h to notice a spcciincn 
 of tlic" rare " Portu^ufsi.' Man of War," so-called from 
 its red caplikc head. Some pretty sea-weed also lloated 
 past now and then, on which the Mother Cares's 
 chickens pounced with avidity, doid)tlcss for the 
 aninuilculic which dwell abundantly therein. 
 
 •tf-JTr-*- ^ .V 
 
 The passeno;-ers aboard were a jolly set, and, even 
 those who became seasick, were as cheerful as the 
 famous ]\Iark Tapley, and, between the periods of their 
 own devotions to the old (i^od of the sea, <j;-ood naturedlv 
 jeered those who were en!:;a_i;ed in the same worship. 
 
 When it was jj^eneralh' known on board that Captain 
 Pike was to be the commander of the Kite, loud were 
 the praises snns2^ in behalf of this <>tvat-hearted man by 
 a nmnber of Newfoundlanders amon<>- the passengers 
 and crew who seemed to know him well. 
 
 I 
 
 ,'i' i 
 
THE niiAR) Ri.i.ihj- /•'.xrEnrnox. 
 
 ^17 
 
 Aiiii)ii,i4 lliosi' who joiiu'd iiKol luattily in llu' piaist-s 
 1)1' Captain Tike' was a UKiiihir ol" tlir itiw, naiiird 
 William Saimdi'is, a iiiaL^nirK-iiii spitMiiitn of Wwfouiitl- 
 laiid inaniK )()(!. Ik- was one of tin.' crew which took 
 LicuU'uanl (iivcly to ImhI Collar on his ill-taUd i\]K<!i- 
 lioii and k-fl him lluu'. lie also was om- ol" Ihr criw 
 of the /'lo/ciis, uikKt command of Captain I'ikt', wiiich 
 was wrecked in Smith vSomid in iSS^ by beinm i-rnslied 
 in the ice, and was in charge of one of the three boats 
 which snccessfnlh' made the iamons cscai)e thronj^h the 
 (lanj^erons and dreaded Mehillc I'ay. vSannders did nf)t 
 appear to consider the feat a remarkable one, and when 
 one of the party remarked in a sympathetic tone that 
 he <;iicsse(l he nuist have had a hard time of it, replied 
 in a matter of fact wa\', "()h, no, we had nood open 
 boats, plenty of warm clothes and lots of food ; what 
 more did we need ? " ( )n Ijcin.^' asked what he called a 
 Iiard time, he re])lie(l, with emphasis, " ISein.^- lost on a 
 cake of ice, with wet clothes, in freezinj^' weather and 
 with nothinj^to eat, and V\u had that nian\- a time." 
 
 Tliis man is the second ])erson the xoya.^ers met with 
 since lcavin_y^ Phihidcljihia who has been a prominent 
 actor in notable Arctic expeditions. Jnst before the 
 Miranda sailed from Urookhii, a weather-beaten tar 
 approached Professor Heilprin and bei^f^cd to be taken 
 alon*;' as one of the officers of the k'i/c on our present 
 enterprise. He l)ased his claim for the ])ositi()n on the 
 statement ihat he was one of the crew of the famous 
 Polaris expedition, and he ai)peared much disa])pointed 
 
 iill 
 
 !,ii 
 
mmmmm 
 
 I 
 
 27S 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 ■ \ 
 
 \ 
 
 wIru Ik- was iiifornicil that his request cur.Ul not be 
 lira 11 led. He was afterward recoi'iiizetl h\ the ch.ief 
 officer of the Minvula as. tile boatswain of the Polaris, 
 and who, when in tlie antunin of 1872 tlic vessel 
 seemed in ininiinent (hui_y;er of bcinjj; crushed in tlie floes 
 in vSuiitli's Sound, with a nuui1;er of othcis took ref- 
 use on tlie ice near 1)\- ..iid camped there. Uefore the 
 
 TH1-. SIJ'AKATION Ol- TllK I'l.OKS — " i'OI.AKIS " ICXI'KniTIOX, 1^72. 
 
 next da}- the floe on which the\- were, separated from the 
 \essel and floated awa\-, taking with them the unforliniate 
 men and an b<skimo woman. I'or eij^ht months the\- 
 drifted about, and were fmalh' jiicked uj) on the Ameri- 
 can -ideof Ilallhrs liay, after enduring iintold hardsh.ips. 
 With the exception of a few brief intervals the 
 fo54 continued throuj^hout the voyaj^e, necessitatiuL; 
 
THE PEARY REI.IEE EXPEniTION. 27.) 
 frequent souiuliu-s. This proceeding- toovtlur witli the 
 condition of the atmosphere, caused a report to spread 
 throu-h tlie vessel tluit tlie captain chd not know where 
 he was. This report, it is to he reoreltcd, wasstren-th- 
 ene<l ])y tiie captain himself who answered all (picM-ies 
 as to his ])osition hv mysterious grunts and -rowls. 
 
 While the passcnocrs were discussin- this matter sonic- 
 bod>- raised the cr> of sjiarks, and a rush was made tor 
 the side of the vessel. Tliere thex were, two u,L;h- 
 brutes, one apparently about six feet Ion- an<l the other 
 seeminoly much lar.oer. When first observed iIu-n were 
 ahead, but soon dropped astern, where thev followed tV,r 
 nearly half an hour, sometimes showin- themselves and 
 s<.metimes buryin-- themselves beneath the waters. 
 
 Soon another bit of excitement was aiforded the ].as- 
 sen-ers. The too-, \vhich nionientarilv -rew lu'avier, at 
 last became so dense th:it nothin- could be seen more 
 than a boat's len.oth ahead. Then the whistle ..f a 
 steamship was heard in closer proxiniitv tlian wa> pleas- 
 ant, and a few minutes later another vessel on the ship-., 
 quarter set U]) an imearthly to..tin-, and then a third 
 whistle not farawav. I„ tlie midst ot' the up.comtort- 
 able feelino- which was sei/ino- the partv, howexer, a 
 pihn boat loomed (mt of the mist an.l a moment later 
 the h)- lit"tedas bv ma-ic, and the vessel was seei to be 
 close to land, which rose in alternate jM-ecipitous white 
 cliffs and low verdure-covered hills, just olT I lalilax, and 
 two hours later, on the mor-ino-„f Jh,„, 3,,^ ^i,,, .]//;-,,;,,/,, 
 steamed into the harbor and brou-ht uj) at the wharf 
 
U; 
 
 fiM 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 IlAi.ii'AX.— Its Il(Ksi;s, vStkkkts, and Docks.— A I,.\tk Si'kino 
 Arctic Ivxim.uricks. — Wim.iam Saindicks indhk I'ikk. 
 
 iH 
 
 \ 
 
 WHIi^N the Miranda was made fast to the wharf 
 at Halifax, it was inulerstood tliat she was to 
 reinaiu there not more than six honrs, and therefore if 
 the passen<>ers desired to see nuich of the town they 
 mnst make the most of that time. vScarcely one anionji^ 
 lliem needed a second Iiint, for all hands hnrried 
 down over the ^an^waN" to solid land, and in a few 
 minntes were scattered over the town. Professor 
 Hcilprin, Mr. I>r\ant and Mr. Meehan, of the relief 
 part)-, and one of the passcn<;ers cast their lots to^^ether, 
 and made their exploration as thoronj^h as possihle. 
 
 Halifax is the capital of Xova Scotia, and the chief 
 naval station of the British Ivmpire in the Western 
 Hemisphere. It has aliont 40,000 inhahitants, and one 
 of its chief ])rides is its water snpply, which is drawn 
 from the Chain Lakes a1)()nt twelve miles distant, and at 
 snch a hei,i;ht al)o\e the city that water is forced by its 
 own pressm'e to the tops of the highest honses. The 
 town is beantifnlly sitnated, Kini;- as it does at the base 
 of the low green hills that Ijound the picturesque bay. 
 
 280 
 
THE PEARY RELIEF EXPEDITION. 
 
 :Si 
 
 111 scarcely a feature does Halifax resemble a city in 
 the United States. In its architecture, its streets, its 
 general sleepiness, and the red-coated soldiers who 
 overrun it, Halifax stands apart from the cities of the 
 American Republic. As in most of the Dominion 
 cities, the tendency has been to the erection of frame 
 dwellings, with shingled walls in lieu of weather board- 
 ing, and these are built mainhin the American colonial 
 st\le. Indeed, many of them look as though they had 
 been constructed during the early days of Xo\a vScotia. 
 
 Here the era of improved pa\ements had not yet 
 arrived. Macadam is the onl\' paveURut used e\en in 
 the heart of the business (piarters, and this material 
 forms the sidewalks for ju-destrians as well as the 
 wagon wa\s. It must be confessed, though, that the 
 work of laying of this kind of jxivenient has been well 
 done, although the rules laid down by Mr. Macadam for 
 its construction are followed in scarcely a single ])artieu- 
 lar. In one piece of work which was seen in ]>rocess 
 of construction, the thoroughfare was exca\ated to a 
 depth of at least four feet and fdled in with stones of 
 various sizes and covered with crushed rock. This, 
 rolled and re-rolled, made a hard atul good road, which 
 did not ai)]u\u' to wear badl\'. l'-\en those which were 
 l)Ut down on streets which led up the steep hillsides 
 aj^peared to hold their own fairh' well. The com])laint, 
 however, was frecpienth- heard of their mudd\- and 
 dusty character, according to the weather, Just as we 
 hear made ay^ainst Macadam in (»ur own American cities. 
 
2r,2 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 
 
 
 % 
 
 Besides the iua.y;inficent water supply, the people of 
 Halifax are blessed in their i)ublic parks. There are 
 two of these, each entirely different in their features, and 
 ])(jth charm iii,i;-. One of them is almost in the heart of 
 the town, and is called the Public (iardens. It is a 
 tract coxerin^- some eij^hteeu acres, and is almost wholly 
 artilicial in its construction, and so skillfull)' and artisti- 
 call\- has the task been performed that it is a pit\- that 
 the municipal authorities do not remove the uirsinhtly 
 wooden fence which surrounds it, and is the only object 
 which mars its beauty. 
 
 iMj^hteen years ai^o, when the munici])al authorities 
 ])urchascd the ground as a public breathiuL;- ])la;\', the 
 site was partly an old truck garden and partly a bit;- 1)0^; 
 hole, through which a small stream ran diai^oually. 
 l'ortun;itely, the city was judicious in the selection of a 
 .superintL'udent. Mr. Richard Power, the gentleman in 
 question, is not onl\' an enthusiast in landscape i^arden- 
 inj;-, but he has the rare ficully of beinu;- able to carry 
 out his artistic ideas in a practical uianner. As a result, 
 the old truck garden and the bo^- hole have been trans- 
 formed into a floral and arboral paradise. A prett\- lake 
 occupies a portion of the ,!:;rouuds, and the little stream 
 has been transformed into a picturesque brook, with 
 charminj;- cascades ami deli,i;htful pools. Mr. Power has 
 also established here an arboretum of which even a 
 larger cit\- mi.^ht well be jnoud. 
 
 The otlicr park owned 1)\- Halif:i\ is remarkable, not 
 only for its inherent loveliness, but as illustrating the 
 
THE PEARY RELIIiF EXPEDITION. 
 
 28: 
 
 good sense of those wlio liave the propert)- in charge. 
 About five years a,^o this traet, whieh comprises oxer 
 500 acres, and is situated on Point Pleasant, a hi.^li 
 bhifT whicli projects tongue-like into tlie ocean and 
 forms one side of Halifax P)ay, was a wild woodland, 
 composed chiefly of s])ruces and pines. Tlirou.^h this 
 wilderness of trees the nninicii)al and military authori- 
 ties ha\-e j()intl\- made handsome serpentine dri\-es in 
 ever\- direction, each, however, leadin.n' to some pronion- 
 tor\- from which i^rand \-iews of the sea are offered. 
 
 On one of these i)romontories is situated an old mili- 
 to'-y t.ower, circular in form, and from tliirtv to forty 
 feet hi.^h. This tower, which is called the Prince of 
 Wales Tower, is said to he the oldest of its kind in the 
 countr\-, and from its summit, as mi^ht be readily 
 ima.Liined, splendid \-iews are obtainable. Near here 
 Scotch heather >^rows abundanth', and if the story 
 be true, from this point all .\merican ])Iants of 
 this pretty species orioriually came. It is related that a 
 little -nore than a century a.^o a vScotch emii^rant vessel 
 was wrecked on Point Pleasant, and the beds of the 
 eniig-rants washed ashore. These beds were stulTed 
 with the heather of the vScotcli hills, and sonic of the 
 seeds oerminated readily upon a soil so like its native 
 country, and nourished. This story ma\- not be true, 
 but doubtless has as much foundaticui as man\- tales that 
 are related of places and things. 
 
 In this park were fouiul soine of the most wonderful 
 evidences of ^lacial action which Professor Ileilprin 
 
"""■•■■"■■■■■I 
 
 \W 
 
 284 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 said he liad ewr seeii (nitsick' of ihc Arctic rc<;ions. 
 Allli()n,^h bcloii^iu!^- to the same period as that which 
 prcN'ailed o\er the .greater part of America, the marks 
 are still deej:) and plainl\- xisihle. 
 
 IliL;]] above the town is the citadel. lM"oni the snm- 
 mit of Citadel Hill one of the grandest of views of Hali- 
 fax and its snrroundin.i;s may he obtained. I-'rom it 
 one looks down on the terraced town, across the spark- 
 lin;.;- l)a\' to the white rocked hills, crowned with the 
 l)]ack and i^reen of the black sprnce and the pines. In 
 the midst of the ba_\- rises (leori^e Island, snrmonn.ted 
 with its frowning- fortifications. To the left the ba\- 
 rnns into a little conc in which is H. I!. Al's shipyard, 
 wliere the crniser />/akr is hin^' fresh from the docks. 
 To the ri^ht, vanishing' in the horizon, the bine ocean 
 sparkles in the snnlii^lit. 
 
 Uesides the militar\- post, Halifax is a na\al station, 
 and fonr of her Majest\"s \-esseIs were in the harbor, and 
 fixe or six more were expected in a few da\s. The 
 (jneen's wharves, before which the \essels lay, are con- 
 nected, so it is said, with the militar\- citadel by means 
 of an nnderj^ronnd passa.i^e. 
 
 At the time the I'ear\- Relief party were there Halifax 
 was enjo\in<j;- the fnllness of spring'. The lilacs were in 
 blossoiu, and these, to.i^ether with other vernal plants 
 lon<>- since over at liome, made the air hea\'\' with 
 fra<j;rance. This and the braciii!,;- air from the hills and 
 sea rendered the place so delightful that, as the hour set 
 down for departure ap[)roaclied it was with the deepest 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
THE PEARY RELIEF EXrFJyriON, 2^5 
 
 regret thai the party turned their f()()tsie])s towards tlie 
 wliari", where the MiiwuUi hi\-, and tlieir disgust fonnd 
 vent in words when, on arrivin,-^' there, the\- k'arned 
 tliat Iier iVei^i^ht was not \et loaded and tliat the time 
 ol her sailini;- was nneertain. To make the matter 
 worse, tliis nneertaintx' rendered it nnsafe to .^o to an\ 
 (h"stanee. In tliis eondition lhe_\- were kept nntil ten 
 o'eloek the n.e.xt da\-, for, after the frei,i;iit had 1)een ,i;<)t 
 on hoard and tlie l)nnker> filled with coal, it was fonnd 
 that the fonr firemen had deserted and others had to he 
 en^a,L;"ed. 
 
 It seemed to l)e the fortnne of the partv to come 
 across those wlio lia\e met witli thrilling- e\])t'riences in 
 the Arctic re.^ions. The cases of the boatswain of the 
 Polaris and of the sailor on the dl-fated I'roUiis ha\e 
 already been noted. While in Halifax (lie\- met 
 a third jierson who had hec-n prominent in Arctic 
 adventnre. This was Captain Ash, commander of 
 the Portia, the twin ship to the Miraiuia. He was 
 ice pilot on board the Puor in the snccessfnl search 
 for Lientenant (ireely, and it was Cajjtain Ash 
 who first discovered the little skin tent in which the 
 ])arty li\-ed and starved, and it was he who cnt his way 
 into the tent and ^ave them relief Captain Ash is a 
 ,^ood e.\am]ileof the Xewfonndland sailor, strong, well 
 knit and good natnred — a man in whom one instinc- 
 tively places implicit confidence. 
 
 At length, on vSatnrdax- morning, Jnl\- 2, jnst as the 
 British Hags were being fioated from e\-er\- staff in Halifax 
 
mm 
 
 2sr) 
 
 IN ARCr/C S/:.IS. 
 
 ill' 
 
 |1h. 
 
 ill honor of Dominion l)a\-, tvciytliino- licin*:^ ready, 
 tl;c' Miranda cast loose from the wharf to wliich she had 
 ])een made fast, and steamed slo\vl\- out of the harbor 
 and turned her prow toward vSt. Jolins. 
 
 ^Mention has already been made of William Saunders, 
 the rouj'-h-and-ready mariner who took in such an un- 
 concerned manner his marvelous escape in an open 
 whale boat thron.irh Melville Hay after the wreck of the 
 Proti'us. After the Miranda left Halifax, some of the 
 party trained their Eastmans on the unconscious W'il- 
 liam, who was then actinj^ as lookout, in order to 
 <;et a picture of him. In this they were aided and 
 abetted by a Mr. Fletcher, a Newfoundland ^y^entlcman, 
 with whom the members struck up a warm friend- 
 ship. After they were all through and had <>^oue awa\', 
 Saunders turned to Mr. Fletcher and with some un- 
 easiness in his voice, said, " Mr. Fletcher, what 
 were you and the .ijjentlemen doin<;-? Ve kep' sayin' 
 ' Willum, look here ' and ' Willum, look there,' and then 
 every time I heard a little snap like." "Indeed, Wil- 
 liam," replied Mr. Fletcher, " I can't exactly sa\-. It 
 was some .sort of a scientific experiment they were tr\-- 
 iii}^ on you. I think they call it a snap shot. It don't 
 hurt you none, and a picture comes from it." " A pic- 
 ture did yon say they were takin' ?" exclaimed the in- 
 nocent Saunders. " Why didn't the\- say so an' I would 
 have fixed up a bit." Then he fell to discu.ssini>- the 
 party, and expressed liis doubts as to whether they were 
 the proper sort to <;o to the North pole. " Why," said 
 
THE PEA R Y REE lEE EXPEDITION. 2^-, 
 
 lie, "most of 'cm were seasick and ain't sailors." 
 " No," said Mr. Fletcher, " but they are scientific men 
 auJ lewspaper men, and they are a hardy lot and know- 
 how to get there." "Yes," said Mr. Saunders, not 
 yet convinced, "they may hum how, but me an' yon, 
 Mr. Fletcher, ivould <g^t there, 'cause we're sailors." 
 
 ifi 
 
 i:iti, . 
 
m 
 
 W' 
 
 ^''''^•'••mmm 
 
 ■■HHiB 
 
 I*' 
 
 \w 
 
 CII.\I'TI-k i\'.^^ 
 
 I'iKsr hi;ni:Ki".s. -St. Johns I'.i:i'i)ur; 'riiiv I'lui:.— Tiir: "Kn'i;'s" 
 < )ii ui:k.s ami Ci<i;\v. 
 
 ii 
 
 i'P \v,i> Suii(la\, jul\' :^. exactly at noon, that the 
 TraiA' rrlirf parly ai^ain caiiii' in sij^lit of land, 
 a Idiil; stRlcli of low hill-., LONcrcd 1)\- a thin lia/.c, 
 known as I'airxland Head, about forty niiU'S from St. 
 Johns. This spot of L;'n)iind has a sonu'what romantic 
 historw Hereford Ilallimort' came, and was so charmed 
 with the place that he estahlished a Roman Catholic 
 colony, which he called hV'rnlaw, in honor of his countr\- 
 seat in ICni^land. This colony, howe\-er, failed, and 
 Lord Ualtiniore sailed to Maryland where Ilaltiniore 
 now is. The ruins of this old colon\- in Xewfonndland 
 are still to he seen, and though there is a xilla^c' there 
 now, it is a small one, coni]iosed chietly of fishermen. 
 Its present romantic name, " h'airx land," was ^i\-en to 
 the ])lace because it was beliexed to ha\e been a favorite 
 haunt of elfm s]-)rites, hobgoblins and other weird folk 
 from tlu' land of mist and dreams. 
 
 Almost simultaneously with tlu' si<;htiui;- of this land 
 the voya:.;ers had their fi/st \iew of an ice])er<.;-, but it 
 
 ■■■ 'I'll! lily nf St, John- w.is almiisl (.oiiiiikUly tlL".-lruy<.'<l by liii live day > after 
 the vi-il 111 llic- iiaiiy. 
 2fvS 
 
 ■ 
 
e 
 c 
 
 T 
 
 V. 
 

 'i; 
 
rill: ri'.Akv Rh.i.iF.i- lixPi.nmoN. 
 
 2^)\ 
 
 was such a u'lvtcluil, iiisij;iiit'u-aiU spii-iiiR'U thai it failed 
 to c'voki.' any (.ulhusiasin whaliArr. Two or ihux' more 
 of a simihir I'haracli r wire iluu sivii siu't-i'ssisely and 
 evoked but hllk- comnifnt, hul shorll\- aflir dinner one 
 was (»h>er\ed which (h"ew e\ iry one lo the ship's side and 
 caused much (lisciissicMi a-^ loiissi/e. It was a pyranndal- 
 shaped block, da/zHnj^f white in its settinj^of blue water 
 and sk\-, and reared its lu'ad oxer i so feit in the air. 
 
 
 As the vessel approached nearer the shore, and came 
 within si<2;-ht of Cape vS])ear, the vast spruce woods which 
 cover the hills were seen to be on fire, and j^reat clouds 
 of smoke rose skyward and floated hea\ily out to sea. 
 This smoke soon became so (K-nse that it entirely ob- 
 scured any sij^ht of land until the ca])e was doubled, 
 wlien suddenly the verdure-covered red rock bluffs re- 
 appeared to view, presentin<; a panorama of wondrous 
 
.^MsitiMsiiMiamuiei^mmi 
 
 mmmmmmum 
 
 
 ii 
 
 Jl)J 
 
 /A' ,/A'7( /( s/:.is. 
 
 If 
 
 Ih. 
 
 1: 
 
 l)(.'.nit\. 'V\\r \i>\,imrs loiiinl I luinsiKi s in ,i ■.mciI 
 si'iui-iMKMil.ir W.isin, hiniiulfil In limki'ii ;iiiil ]iUTi|iiliiiis 
 rlills III ud s.iiiilsldiir, u liii-li risr sliiri oiil ol (he 
 w.iU-i iiioir ill, 111 |(ii) Irii lii;^li, ;iiiil :i^,iiii.st tlir l>,i-.r of 
 whirli llu' \v,i\rs d.isli llu'iiist'Krs iiilo loam. Ilcrc .iiid 
 tluTi.' ^ii'.il iM\rs show ill llu' lai'i- of tlir dills, loinud 
 1>\ llu' .uiion ol llu' walris, and iVoiii llicii (U|)llis coiius 
 llir hollow roar of the si'a as it toils and rats rnitlut and 
 Imtlur into llir soil, cininhliiiiu; loi'k. 
 
 Across I his hasiii, whii-h is ralK'cl iMrshwatiT ]\a\\ 
 tlu- .]//) i!//(/ir straiiU'd towards a (K'pti'ssioii in lIu' hills, 
 which, wlun it was approaidircl (.dosvU, was toniid to hr 
 a narrow passa^'waN ol water onlv a li'W Immlu'd trrt 
 widi'. Throni^h this thr Miiniuhi stt-anu'd, and ciitnid 
 a ^niall I'iu'iilai' !)a\ , at ihr otlua sidr ol" whii-h lU'slK 1 
 St. Johns at tlu' wain's (.'d-^t', and soon slu' was niadr 
 last to one '.A llu' whaiAX's, 
 
 l.ookiiiL; n])on tin.' pictnifsciiK' littlr town and haihor 
 oiu- nuL^ht WH'll UtI with and join llu' nati\«.' pottrss in 
 tlu lu'.irliiu'ss of hrr to.ist : 
 
 ' \i) st.iUK iiiiiiiimunls aiim ii tliv rn.ist ; 
 N.> .nu'ii'ill iililu'v iMlisl tliou Imast ; 
 \\1 1 -.vill pliMlv;i' willl luait and hand 
 Tin lu'iltli foii-xiT, \i'\\ roimdlaiiii." 
 
 .\s Il.ilifax dillrrs iVoni all c-itirs in the I'nilcd vStaU'S, 
 st> doi'S vSt. j(dins dilU'i" from Halifax, hnt as Ilalilax 
 possesses toatnres distincliwK' its own, so ,St. Johns 
 oi.-i.mi]m\'s a pinnacle eciualK' nni(ine. In ihrei' partiia;- 
 lars onl\- do these two cities resenihle each other. Ivich 
 
rill: I'l-.Ah'Y h'i-:i n-i- h.srini i ion. 
 
 '(.^ 
 
 I>:l\-l'S its sheets will, M le.,, |, , ,,, , ,,,,!, 1,,,,, ..| sle,|p\, |,,i- 
 ^''.^" 'ii'- ■■">"• '''I"''! ii^es eliiell\ liinhci |,,r hiiildin... |,iir- 
 I'Mses ;iil.| se;ireel\ ,iiiv l,i lek oislmie. \\n\ H,,. -,|,,,t> 
 "' 'l''lil''l\ run. In ;i .MV;il exlelit, ,|| iJmIiI ,i ||.. i. , ui I 1| 
 '•"•'' "'•'"■'- wlllle m Si. jolllls |||e\ eillier WIIkI Hid 
 *''l'\'' III'" "IK- .illi'ther ill 111,. ni..,| I.ewildelill- l;i:-d 1 ioi; , 
 lollowill;; the enill(.lir> (if Ihe | .iel l| | ex | iir |ii|U,,ii uilKli 
 
 llie town nestles, .,!• make a 1)1, Id mil sirai.-lil up the 
 steej) incline tdwanis the siiimnil oj the lid-e. 
 
 'Idle Macadam |)a\ in- ol the main |M,iti.,n .A ihese 
 IhoK.n-lilaivs is imt nearl\ as caictnlK .Ioik a. in llali- 
 lax. 'Idle turnpikes, li<)we\er, in the eii\ii,,iis ol Si. 
 J'diiis art' excelK'iit. .\s ..iie wanders al-ui- ikein muc 
 is strii(d< with the siniilarit\- of the (diaracter of the 
 roadsidt'S to those of the Isle .,f Wi-ht. Iled-cs 
 
 <>t hawthorn line hoth sidi-s of the roads, and the solt 
 .Urteii orass-co\H'ri'(i hills are sin.-nlail\ like those of 
 that pretty isle, the pride of l'',nidand. 
 
 .\I)oiil V'.'x'o people reside in St. John-,, ami like 
 thosi' of Halifax, tlie\- sedii to ha\i' a le.iiiiii- towards 
 ancient lookin;- hiiildin-s, Imt, unlike those in Halifax, 
 who affect -.1111 1)1(1 roofs, those ol" St. joliiH ])refer the 
 plain doiihle pittdi, so steep that iiearK ,dl li,i\-e to |,e 
 provided with fixed ladders in case of (ire. In [|u- ni.itter 
 ol wati'r sii|)i)l\ llu' residents of this place are exception- 
 all\ fortunate, ami (daini that llu\ li,i\f ih, purest and 
 best water in the world. 'Idu- source is Tw eni\ -niiie 
 I'ond, a lar-f lake, ei-lit miles out ol' town, ,,ii :, hj!] 
 more than lOoo feel above the sea. Down the- steel) 
 
294 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 %K 
 
 incliuf tlie wak-r rushes, acratin,i,r itself by its own 
 vclocilx', and runs in clear cold streams ])y its own ])res- 
 sure to the tops of the tallest bnildinj^s. 
 
 .\.lthon<;h a small place, vSt. Johns does a connnercial 
 business of some importance, shippin,^- lars^ely fish, seal- 
 skins and minerals to the States, En<;land and the West 
 Indies. Hut the people move at an eas)- pace. They 
 do not seem to be able to comprehend the meaninji^ of 
 the word hurry. In their parlance to-niorrt)w is synon\-- 
 mous with to-day, and two or three hours more or less 
 a matter of no consequence. 
 
 ^:ij,,,^' ;.-7;^^.i<Tv,.^o 
 
 'i; 
 
 Picturesque as are the approaches to vSt. Johns from 
 the sea, they are rivalled by the views from the hills 
 above the town, either lookin^^ westward or towards the 
 ocean throujjjh the narrows which connect it with tl:e 
 bay. At the foot of the hill runs a wide and brawlinj;- 
 stream of water, ice cold and clear as crystal, which a 
 little distance further on expands into a broad, deej) and 
 lo\'ely lake, three-quarters of a mile lont^, to which the 
 Indian name of Onidi \'idi still clin<;s. It rests in a 
 ^rand natural amphitheatre, and here annually the 
 jieojile of St. Johns hold a fete day. ( )n this occasion, 
 the annual reir^tta is held and the hills are dotted with 
 
TIfE PEARY RELIEF EXPEP/T/ON. 
 
 -^D.S 
 
 wliitc Iciits, and tvsoinul willi the sliouls and lanL;lili.T 
 of llic !L;ail\' dressed merrymakers. 
 
 After leavinj;- the lake, the stream wliicli forms it, 
 seemin}^d\- tired o^ the ([niet which it found there, 
 he^iiis a mad course of nearl\- a mile down an incline 
 of more than 200 feet, ])lun<^in,L,f in small cascades, 
 s\virlin<^ about linj^e red boulders, and dashin_L; into 
 foam over broad riffles, and finally emptyin.i^ into the sea 
 tliroiijj^h a (leeji, narrow (L^ori,^', whicli it has made for 
 itself by ai^es of work, and to which has been iL^iveu 
 the inelegant but expressive name of Ouidi \'idi ( lUt. 
 
 Walking about the outskirts of the town on a pleasant 
 July evening, when the air is full of the fragrance of 
 flowers, young tree leaves and grass and the fresh scent 
 of the sea, it was liard to imagine that vSt. Johns could 
 ever be other than a delightful place t(» li\e in, and not 
 until one looked closely, and observed that e\er\- tree, 
 every shrub in exposed places leaned heavily towards 
 the southeast, did a suspicion dawn on one what must 
 be the severity of the northwest winds during the long 
 cold winters. vStill Xewfoundlauders love their country 
 with a love that almost ])asses belief, and the wild 
 scenery, the fierce storms which swee]) o\(.r it in winter, 
 alternating with the mild, fragrant s])ring and the 
 ])leasant summer, fits exacll\- the character of the 
 brave, strong, honest race of men who li\'e there. 
 
 It had been intended that the A'/A should sail on her 
 vowage to .\rctic waters on Jnl\' 4, but it was found 
 impo.ssible to stir u[) the sluggish men about the wharf 
 
mm 
 
 " 'i'^mmm mm^m^.- 
 
 296 
 
 IN ARCTIC s/-:,is. 
 
 
 i[l 
 
 h 
 
 sitiriciciilK- 1(1 i;L-t away hffoiv iIr- afternoon of tlie 
 fiflli. Mnrh aj^ainsl llicir wills, tlKTcfoR', tlir nicnilirrs 
 of llu' IVaiA Relief Ivxpedilion were eouipelled to 
 celebrate In<le])en(lenee l)a\' on shore. 
 
 The AV/r had heeii ,!.;reatl\' heantified and iiad only 
 come off dock the week before ; she had been ])ainte(l 
 and i^ilded throni^liont and a new carpet laid on the 
 floor of her eoz\- little saloon and the staterooms and 
 l)erths were iiewK' fitted np. All tliis ])leased e\er\ oia- 
 except two or three ^rii.zled old whalers, who shonk 
 their heads sadly and with disapjjroval at the nildin:^ and 
 *>e\vt;aws wherewith the stanncdi and 
 steady old k'/ic had l)een adorned. 
 One said that she looked more like a 
 " painted Je/.abeel than the i^ood, 
 lionest old woman slie was." 
 
 Besides Captain Pike the niend)ersof 
 the slii])'s company were Cai)tain Iv Mur]")hy, first officer; 
 P. Dumpily, second officer ; A. McKinley, chief eii<.;in- 
 eer ; John Peiiston, seond en.^iiieer ; L. Hackctt, chief 
 .steward ; I?ernard Wall, second steward ; A. Lind- 
 sa\', cook ; J. CnniiinL;ham, A. Roost and Iv Crook, 
 firemen, and 'Phomas Hayes, John I\.eas\-, R. 
 Flemmiii^- and Daniel McDonnell, seamen. < )f these 
 officers and crew all were new men except Mr. Dnni])h\-, 
 the second mate ; Mr. McKinley, who occnp>ied the jiost 
 of Mr. Jardiiie, the first engineer, last year ; and 
 Andrew Roost and Ivlward Crook, firemen. 
 
CHAl'Tl'.R V. 
 
 LiiAvrxc, St. Johns. --Tin; Xi-.\vi-oi:.M.i..\.\n Co.x.ST.— Soi.omd.n 
 r.oss.— Thi; .\uctic Cikli.:: — .Vkriv \i, ..\t Cdini.w x. 
 
 ^T^PII<: A7/r, after Ifaviii^- the harbor of St. Jolnis. <.ii 
 J- its way to McCorniick I!ay, oiiJul\ 5, kept luar 
 the coast, .t;ivin>; ample opportunity for oI),ser\ iii.^ its wihl 
 beaut)-. Clean cut, the red cliffs ro.s^ from the (K-ep 
 blue water to heights ran^-ino- from 100 to .|.oi^ feet, tluir 
 summits, which are clothed with low ve,L;etation, .sharply 
 silhouetted a.^ainst the cloudless sky. Ikre a bluff ro>e 
 abruptly from the .sea, its a.^ed face deeply seamed and 
 wrinkled into uncounted clefts and ledj^e.s. Sometimes 
 the bluffs would extend for a quarter or half a mile in a 
 straio-ht line alon,-;- the coast, then makin>,r oreat sweei)s 
 backward or forward the>- would form small fiords. 
 Aoain, instead of standinj^- out bold and ru,^.L;ed, they 
 would retreat, sometimes i^ently, sometimes abruptly, 
 disclosin.L;- rolliui^'- valleys, throu.nh the centre of whicli 
 broilino- streams tumbled seaward o\-er rocks and bould- 
 ers. Here and there, in little nooks shelt<.'red from the 
 northwest winds, nestled the ])ictures(iue t)nt rude huts 
 oi the Newfoundland fishermen. 
 
 As at St. Johns, so alou^- the coast the clilTs are 
 pierced by caverns carved out by the iiidef iti,L;able sea, 
 and the .same irresistible element lias cut throuoh the 
 
 297 
 
 I Q-' 
 
WI«|||HI»(KlI^J(.V,l».,ii<ir, ..-— 1>„. ,. 
 
 21J.S 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 h».. 
 
 iH 
 
 'i; 
 
 rocks ill countless places deep ji^ulches which are 
 soiiielinies a thousaiul feet or more wide, but oftener so 
 narrow that a man could readily sprin,^- across. 
 
 These clefts vary in depth from a hundred to three 
 or four lunidied feet, and in them the water lashes 
 itself into a white foam and emits a hollow, indescrib- 
 al)le sound, which on storm\' days nia\' be heard a lou!^^ 
 distance. vSometimes, instead of ruunin!:^ inland, they 
 run parallel with the shore, and then an island is 
 "oruied. One ol these, kiu)wn as Haccalieu Island, 
 li . between Conception and Trinity Hays. This spot 
 was the scene nine years a_y^o of one of the uiost 
 'lyste^'cMS sea tragedies known on the Newfoundland 
 coast. Klmx it was that the Lioii^ carryinj^; several 
 p isseuii^ers, parted one sunny afternoon from a com]^an- 
 ion ship and .started to 5^0 between the island and the 
 nuiin land (the water beinjj;- reputed and charted as 
 very deep) and was never heard of afterward, and no 
 tr.ices of her found except the body of a woman on the 
 shore of the mainland and the wreckaj^c of a boat be- 
 l()Uifin.i>' to the vessel. Here it was that Cabot landed in 
 1497. Here, too, the fishermen have more tales of hard- 
 ships and sufTerin«;s to tell of than anywhere else on the 
 coast of Newfoundland. Thou.sands of lives have been 
 sacrificed here in the hunt for cod and seal, and prob- 
 abh- thousands nuue will pa.ss to the " <;reat majority " 
 in the same pursuit. 
 
 It was at this point, also, that the travelers saw the 
 first of those glorious sunsets of which Newfoundlanders 
 
THE PEARY RELIEE EXPEDITION. 
 
 299 
 
 so proudly boast. The lower end of the island hid 
 the retiriu}^ luminary, but the narrow stretch of water 
 whicli separates the mainland from the island was 
 bathed in a radiance which made it a sea of j^litterinjr 
 gold, while the face of the red clifis of the mainland 
 and of the island were chanjred to a deep purple ; the 
 verdure above them had assumed a pale j^reeu hue with 
 here and there patches of black. The rocks of the 
 island in the foreground, which were in the shadow, were 
 shaded from red to dark brown and from dark brown to 
 black, while their edges appeared clear cut against the 
 sky, now all aflame. Above the island the heavens v/ere 
 cloudless, .save for a few small flecks of cirrus, now 
 altered from silvery white to shining gold, floating in a 
 sky whose azure blue was wa.shed and tinted with 
 soft yellows and delicate greens. Higher up there were 
 great masses of ragged cumulus, purple and violet, all 
 edged and flecked with crimson, so bright that the color 
 was reflected by the sea. Far off" to the horizon on either 
 hand these colors extended until dissolved in the blue 
 haze over the water. The splendor of the spectacle kept 
 all on deck unmindful of the supper bell, which, from 
 time to time, angrily called them to come below. 
 
 As the k'ih' is not a fast boat, its average speed being 
 not more than seven knots an hour, the Miranda, which 
 carried the ])arty from New York to St. Johns, caught 
 up to and passed them about nine (j' clock the same 
 night, and fireworks and steam whistle compliments 
 were exchanged between the two vessels until they were 
 
 ?!• 
 
""* * ". ' "" »' ■ " ■« ■ >Mii* MM^ .<i k.U* «. 
 
 ""*«"''«'wmB 
 
 300 
 
 /X .ih'CT/C s/-:.is. 
 
 i; 
 
 out ol si,u;lit and hryoiid luaiiuL; of each other; this 
 \va> the hist wsscl nirt till Disko was ivachcd. 
 
 Im)] till' li.-st thrcT (la\ s of the jdiiriK-y iVoni St. joliiis 
 the (la\s and (.AeiiiuiLiS were (|uitc warm, hut on the 
 fourth the teni])erature hei^an to lall until it reached 
 close to tlu' iVee/.iiiL;- point, and shortK' alter was seen 
 the " ice hlink,"" a white streak on tlu' sky aho\e the 
 liorizon, which indicates the ])rcsence of pack ice. 
 l!nt the si^ht caused no ap])reheusions, for Captain 
 rike announced that it was entirely out of the ship's 
 course. 
 
 vSoon alter coniinj; on hoard the A'/'/r tlie members of 
 the expedition learned of the existence of a mysterious 
 jiiTsonaj^e known as " vSolomoii (ioss." Just who he is 
 they were unable to lind out cxce])t that lie was a Xew- 
 touudlander -nd that lie had three ])irthda\s a week, 
 Tuesdays, ThnrsdaNs and Sundays, on wdiich da\s 
 "plum duff" was ser\e(l as dessert in his honor. Plum 
 duff is a ])eculiar kind of ])uddinL;, well and fax'orahl)' 
 known to sailors, and is made out of Hour, raisins and 
 suet. .Most of the UKMuhers of the relief ex]K'dition 
 took to " plum duff," htit there were othersof them who 
 would rather "Solomon (ioss" had not been favored with 
 more birthdaxs annualK than the rest of mankind. 
 
 ( )n vSundax', Jul\- 10. iIk' A'/'/r (.'ntered the outer limits 
 of the "Land of the Midnii^ht Sun ; " — that curious 
 .\rctic phenomenon was in\-isil)le, howe\'er, owinj^;- to the 
 Iol; which liad ])re\-ailed for two <la\s, a condition of 
 tlie weather wliich also ])revente<l them from ,t;cttiu_ii^ 
 

 
 'i 
 
 "I lit 
 
THE PEARY RELIEE EX/'EDIT/ON. 
 
 303 
 
 their t'lrsl j^limpsc of (ircculaiul until t\v<» (l.i\s latc-r, 
 and fuitluTiuorL' caused Captain Pike to run into a 
 lar>;e field of ice on the e''enin,i4 of the same da\'. 
 The |)art\- were at supper at the time, and tile first inti- 
 mation that an\thin<^r was wron,!;- was their hearing one 
 of the mates bawl, " Hard a starboard I "' at the top of 
 his voice. Runnin<; on deck the\' saw ice about them 
 on everv hand in ^reat fioes, which (ground a>;ainst eacli 
 other with a hard, ras])in<j^ sound anytliin^'- but pleasant. 
 One huf^e mass, the domes t)f which reached liij^h above 
 the 1)ulwarks as it floated by the vessel, struck and 
 knocked awav the larjj^e iron shute used to dump ashes 
 into the sea. Half an hour brou,t;ht the k'i/c throu<j[h 
 these lari;e cakes, wliich Captain Pike said, were from 
 tlie eastern shore of Greenland, carried down by the 
 current to Cape Farewell, and thence north alou,^ the 
 west coast towards INIclville Bay. 
 
 .\ftcr passiufT these masses the vessel had clear water 
 fi)r a while, and then came uj^ou a j^reat number of 
 small fras^ments which proved the precursors of another 
 larj^er and more difficult i)ack to ])ass throuj^h, and 
 which in fact she did not .i;et out of fi)r two or three (Ia\s, 
 and then only after man\- retrerits, buttiny^s and search- 
 in,i;- for leads, during- which mau(eu\res .Mr. I)umi)liy 
 and Mr. Mur]jh\- were kept l)us\- in the crow's-nest, a 
 laro-c barrel at the foremast, shouLin!; : '' vSteadw" " Star- 
 board," ''.Steady," "Port." and now and then the 
 exasperating^ order to " P»urn her down," that is stop 
 
 the engines and la\' to. 
 20 
 
304 
 
 /X ARCTIC SEAS, 
 
 
 Duriii.n oiK'of llu'se periods of " la\iii,!^ to." a imiiihfr 
 of llu' i)arly clanibi'ivd oxir llu- si(K' of llif xlsscI oil to 
 a lai'i^v cake of ici.' and fiudiii^ I he it a (|uautit\ of snow, 
 betook thcmselws to the undi.i^uified s])ort of 'ow hall- 
 in}4, until the cr\- of "seal" pnl a stop to tl _ ,a\, and 
 sent some of the l)o\s in an unsuccessful stalk for the 
 animal, which was some two miles awa\'. 
 
 The Kite f^ol out of the ice finally on Tuesda\- nioru- 
 in<^, Jul\- 12, and soon after, the fo.iL,^ lifted and those on 
 board had their first si^lit of (ireenhuid. The\- were 
 a short distance above Cape Desolation, iv^t far from the 
 same spot where the bold na\i,nator, John Davis, found 
 himself loll!:;- years a<^(). Like them, he arrix'ed in the 
 midst of a j^reat fojj^ and hearing- a i;reat roarinj;- noise, he 
 put forth in a boat. Returning he reported to his com- 
 rades that they were near a nigged shore on wdiich there 
 was no vegetation and that the rocks wdiich composed 
 
 \ 
 
 U 
 
riiE PiiARY Ri:i.ii:i- lixriniiiox. 
 
 V>5 
 
 it wiTi' coMTrd 1)\ nothing hul ict.' ami ^iiow. 'IMkti'- 
 luiv, 1k' nanud iIk' place the Land of Desolation, and 
 then.' is a ^ingnlar ai)i)ii>i)rialen(.ss in llu' name. l-'roui 
 
 this jxiint to the is 
 
 and oi' Disko, the eoast line is a 
 
 sn 
 
 eeession of eonxadsions, jaj^ged peaks, giwit erexasse; 
 
 (lonK-liue islands an( 
 
 I'jl: 
 
 leuTs. 
 
 ( )n iIk' same night Mr. Mnr])li\, thelhst mate, ealled all 
 hands on (Uek to witness sneh a snceession of pheiioniena 
 a> kept them rnnning from one side of ihe wssrl to 
 the other to see them all. There was the snn, at ele\en 
 o'eloek at night, sinking below the hori/on jnst a little 
 
 \\ 
 
 est of north — a brilliant snnset ni the sonth- 
 
 ranil)ow rnnnmu' 
 
 tl 
 
 iro 
 
 ngii tile ])ink radianee ot tins to 
 
 a gorgeous 
 th 
 
 the (.asl — a wonder: \\ mirage in tin.' north — tlu' gleam of 
 a coming smirise a little east of north — all at tlie same 
 time. IJesides this, the needle of the ship's compass 
 was ])ointing westward and the air, althongh the tlur- 
 niometer imlieatcd thirt\-fonr degrees, felt (piite warm. 
 About the ves.sel were huge icebergs, colored by the set- 
 ting snn crim.s(jn, blue and violet, sparkling like jewels. 
 < )n the following da\' the .Vrctic circle was passefl 
 and the occasion was appr()])riatel\- celebrated by songs 
 and games, and on the evening of the next da\-, Jnl\- 14, 
 the Kitr entered (iodha\n. It was a beautiful da\-, the 
 laiiest e.\i)erienced since the departure from St. Johns. 
 There was not a cloud in the sk\- and the sun shone in the 
 niorning with a mild glow which tempered the otherwise 
 cool atmosphere and made it delightfully bracing. Ivu'h' 
 in the niorning the vessel steamed past a conipanx- (jf 
 
mmmmm 
 
 |! ti 
 
 ' f 
 
 \\w 
 
 T,i.y(} 
 
 IN .lA'CV/C S/i/lS. 
 
 it'll )(.'ri;s oil tlu'ir sik-ul luarcli in siii,i;k' Ilk' towards Mtl- 
 \ilk' \Va\. 'Vhvsv l)(.'i<4S \\\vv of all si/.ts, and no two 
 alikf sa\-(.' i"or tluir wliitiiuss and (iK'ir niaiidcnr. 
 
 l'",ric till.' Ki'd, wild old iR'atlicii thai lu' was, had soiin' 
 support for his (kcfptioii, wlun a ihonsaiid yi-ars aj^^o Ik- 
 oalk'd the c-oiintr\ ( irti'iiland, for diiriii;^ ihf sniniiRr 
 the «'ival basalt cliirs arc clollitd in a iiianlk' of L-nicrald 
 
 ;! 
 
 !!• 
 
 siKLii 1)\' j^ivat patclus of bright ^ri'tii moss and i^rass, 
 and tlu' Ni'i'dnri' of rifcjuiii^ willows. About i\\v o'clock 
 till.' ))rop(.'lkr of tin. A'i/r txasi-d rrxohiri!.;, and, to tin.- 
 answL'rin.^ sii^nal of the steam whistle, a boat put ott 
 troin shore. briniL^in^ on board a hall-bni'd ]iilot, who 
 soon landed the iiieiiibeis oi' the e.xpedilion at the settle- 
 ment 1)1" <iodha\n. 
 
 I I 
 
 I 
 
c II .\ I'T ]•; \i \- 1 . 
 
 (diiciAi, l\i:c()''.Nri'i()N III' I'iii: l'',\i'i.i>rrii)\. — An ICsKnin Intik- 
 
 I'Kl.n.K. ei.l.MKIM. A (■I.AMI.K. 1 N .\I I . I. \ I 1. 1. 1'. I '. \ N . 
 
 1^ .\( )\\"i .\( I Irnill \Kl>[ cx] rricllrr ll(i\v .stlicllx liU' 
 *- I )aiiiNli i^oviiiiiiuiil ill Siiiilli ( "imiil.iinl t-iuKaN'ois 
 1(1 rnlDri-c \]\c !:i\v-^ iilaliiiL; [<> iN Ari.lu- poSM .-sioii^, 
 I'liilrs.^or Ilt-ilpiin iKtnrr lca\iu;_; riiilaiK-lplii.i lnok lIu- 
 ]iri.cautinn ot' ^rcnriiiL; iVum l)(iiinark, tlinm^Ii []]c 
 I )(.'])arliii(.'iil (if Slalf at \\'a>liiiiL;liiii, an (illicial rccuL^iii- 
 lidii of iIk- ki-lii'f I'',\j)i(lili(iii. A-> a riNuli, wlicn ilu- 
 AV/( arriwd a'l ( Hxlliaxti (Ui jnl\ i ), it \\a> ImiukI iliat 
 llu- ;^()\ (.riinr <it" lliat plan- hail iiwt <i!il\' hc-ni aii]iri>(.-(l 
 ol llu- I'liiiiiiiL; <it tlu' cwiK'ditiiiii, hiil had ri(ii\id iii- 
 stnulions to txtnid i\fr\ courtc^x and do c\(.r\ tiling; 
 ill liis ])o\vrr to rurtlui" il> iiitfi'C'Nts. It \va^ snl)>K|iu-iitly 
 a>ciTtaiii(,'d that similar ordrrs had ln-tii L^isrii toi\Ti\ 
 inspiTtoi" and ^o\irnor on the cntiif \vr>l coast <it 
 ( iinnland. 
 
 At the n.'(|m'>l ol rrori.>sor I Icilprin, thr iiuinhrrs ot^ 
 ]'''s part\- wnx' ])roiii])il\ fnrnislud with liir cloihinL; and 
 with ail inti-rprc'trr to ac'c'()in|)an\ tluni lor tlu- riinain- 
 diT ol iIk- \o\aL;i'. 
 
 Tliis iiilcrprfli-r, I)aiiiil IlrohriL^- 1)\ naiiK-, was the 
 iK'])hrw ot" the w(.'althir>t I'',>kinio in iIk- s(.llK-iiu.-nl, a 
 
'mmmt. 
 
 30S 
 
 /N ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 *!l' 
 
 
 \ 
 
 man reputed to have tlie simiu^ sum of $500 laid away in 
 the bank. Daniel was one of the five male servants of 
 the officials of Clodhavn, and the jolliest of j^ood-natnred 
 Eskimos. lie was about twenty-two years old, short of 
 stature and stout of form, and prided himself on the fact 
 that he " nnic'.i wash." 
 
 Da:iiel was t^reatly pleased to be asked to accompany 
 the part)' on their journey north, but with a wisdom 
 hij^hly commendable, born probably of j^ruesome talcs 
 related I)y his brethren of their treatment by some former 
 expeditions, before aj^reeinj^ to j^o, he insisted on several 
 coriditions. Amon<^ these were, that no one should order 
 him to do any work exci'pt accredited mend)ers of the 
 party ; that in case of his meetiuiL;- with an\- accident he 
 or his relatives should receive a substantial money in- 
 demnity ; that when his services as an interpreter weie 
 no lou<^er needed he should be returned to Godhavn, 
 and that he should recei\-e a stated sum and his focul 
 while with the jiarty. Althou.nh Daniers iMiiL^lish was 
 extremelv limited, still, as he receixed such a j^ood 
 character, which his appearance bore out, and as he 
 appeared very brij^hl ;is well as j^ood-uatured, his terms 
 were acceded to and he was eiij^a.^ed. 
 
 The settlement of these and se\eral other matters re- 
 quired a sta\' in Crodhavn of some Iwenty-four hours, 
 and the interxals were occupied by \i.sils to \arious 
 points of interest. One of these was a glacier on the 
 island of Disko, which it was asserted had ne\er but 
 once before l)eeu ascendeil. The path to this ri\er of 
 

 rilE PEA R ) ' RELIEF EXPEDl TION. ;,o9 
 
 ice was for a portion of tlic \va\- tliroui^h I'lauzx- Dai.-! or 
 Windy Valley up to a dcfj) t^or^c or crrvassc in the 
 earth whicli extends from the snnnnit of the isknid to 
 tlic Red River and is known astlie Devil's Hole. At the 
 bottom of this j^or^e an an_4r\- torrent dashed, roarin,^:;- 
 sullenly, in tunndtuous eascades over the roeks. The 
 route was roni^di and tiresome from the be.^innin.t;- and 
 grew more so as the j^laeier was approached, makinj^^ 
 frequent rests necessary. At len.^th the 'party came to 
 an innnense tenninal moraine which formed a barrier 
 more than forty feet hij^h. One end of this moraine 
 had been torn awa\- by the action of the stream, leaxing- 
 an incline composed of loose stones reaching; down to 
 the ed,!^re of the DexiTs Hole. Across this incline, where 
 a sinj^le misstep or the slidini^r of a single stone mii^ht 
 prove fatal, the ])arty were obli<;ed to pick their wa\ ; it 
 was with considerable hesitation that the\- \entnred on 
 the treacherous spot, and all breathed freer when safe on 
 the other side. 
 
 A short distance beyond, the ,y;lacier was reached, and 
 the ascent of its forty feet of wall to the lateral mo- 
 raine was snccessfulh' accomplished. iMom its >ouree, 
 the ice-cap, the ri\er of ice came down to its discharL>in<r 
 l)oint in a hn.i^e white dome, across which were- marks 
 in man\- directions like ^reat scratches upon it-- sur- 
 face. These scratches had once been cre\asses, b;it bv 
 .some freak ot ice mownunt had bei-diiK- closed. I lire 
 and there, howe\er, were cre\as>es whit'h were \ et npcn. 
 These when looked down into displawd hanL;in>; from 
 
-J3snBffliaatoftK»*i»*tt»feaptfl(^ 
 
 3i< 
 
 A\' ANcnc s/-:,is. 
 
 \\W. 
 
 tlicir liliR- si(k'> imriads of icick-s, and wIku aii\ dl" tlu-ni 
 \ww kii()c-kL-(l off lk(.'\- k'll into llir unknown (kplks with 
 a (.'kinL;(iriMi> sound likr lliu rini^in^ of kills. 
 
 As lla- sunnnil of llir i^iacicT was approaclu-d it was 
 disi-o\-crc(l to liaw a trikutarx, a -nialkr slrcani of irr, 
 wliick (.-niiilird inlo llir main kod\- willi a lorci' thai 
 al lilt.- junction had torn koili u]i wildK. Akow this 
 was tlu' cir(|U(.' or ncxc kasin into whirli the- i_;ri.-al icc- 
 ca]) ci'o\vnin,L; llu- whok- island pours its sr.])iil\' lor I he 
 ,i;Ia(d(.'r. 
 
 I'roni this ])oint a \\\\v \ii'W of iIk- surronnclini^s w;is 
 oklaincd. ( )n llir k-ft far kflow, ncsllrd on llu- rock\ 
 shores of llu' piclurcsijui.' littlr ka\' was scxai the scUk- 
 lutnl of'iodhax-n; to ihr rii;hl la\- llie kroad ocean, 
 (in whose surface floated countless icekeri^s all silenlK' 
 and niajv'slicalk' nioxiui;' in procession nortkward to 
 l\Kl\ille l'>a\-, Ik'Nond, o\-er the coast of llie mainland 
 ihe ice-ca]) ol ( k"(.".'n]aud rolled lo ihe hori/on, a pure 
 while slreak ai;;iinsl thekluesky. 
 
 ( )n anollier occasion two of the parl\\ Ike writer ke- 
 iuL; one, explored lUau/y I)ael, lliat lo\el\' \alle\ once 
 ihe ked of a glacier, kul now elollud with ^n-en moss, 
 dwarf willows and kirches, and dolled with Arctic wild 
 flowers whose pretty faces smiled defiance al ihe desu- 
 lalion near them. 
 
 k'ollowin^ the Red Riwr the two ad\-enlurers came 
 finalk into a spol of i^reat lo\-eliness. 'i'o ihe left ihe 
 valle\- lren(k'd. Close to ikem la\- a lake ])erliaps a 
 mile in leuj^lh formed ky niellin.^ snow, so clear, that 
 
c 
 
 c 
 
> 
 
 M»^ 
 
 1: 
 
 mmmmm 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 i 
 
 ^ 
 
 i 
 
THE PEARY RELIEF EXEEPrr/ON. 
 
 313 
 
 thoil!i;li (k'cp, its Ijotloin was plainly visihk-, and so still, 
 tluit the adjacent I'.ills wtix' rcncctcd on its snrface so 
 sliarply that but for tla- small frin.^c hftwcLii thcni and 
 the water's cdi^v it would have been iinpossibk- to tell 
 where the hills ended or the reflection be^an. These 
 hills on the east have abscjlulely peri)endicnlar sides sheer 
 lip to their flat tops, and stand in array one elosel\- fol- 
 k)win<;^ the other like a row of hn^e red boxes. ( )n the 
 west the hills slope towards the ice-cap, and are scarred 
 by tlic action of a lon}^-<;one <;lacier and worn by many 
 streams which flow from the ice. Several lofty water- 
 falls wdiich add to the turmoil of the Red River's run 
 to the sea, and the many i)atches of ice which lay in 
 sliady spots amonj^ the red hills to.ijethor with the 
 stretches of soft green moss from which peeped the 
 white and yellow Aictic flowers, lent the scene a sini^ular 
 beaut\- as charniini;- as it was unexpected in these hii^h 
 latitudes. 
 
 The necessary work in (iodhavn accomplishe(l, the 
 parts left that i)lace in the afternoon for rpernavik. 
 Fond fivi-wells were waxed to Daniel b\ the l'',skinio 
 belles, and the former as the settlement faded from si^lit 
 informed his new emplo\ers, with a ^dod-nalured L;riu 
 upon his red-brown face, that he felt as though lu' could 
 " much er\ . " 
 
 After kaxiuL; Oodhax'U the AV/r was kept close to 
 the coast, and as the weather was \ery fine, there were 
 excellent opportunities for seeing and enjoxiuL; the 
 scener\-, which continued to i;r(jw more \aried and 
 
,14 
 
 IN .lA'C/Vl S/'.IS. 
 
 ^\W 
 
 IM 
 
 intcresUiii; as \vc aih'aiiceil fiirllifr norlhwanl. Amon^' 
 llic iiiosl sin^^^nlar and >lrik;ni; plKaioiiK'ua art.' lliu sliari) 
 ridj^L'S of {hv iiiDiiiUaiiis at llir juiK-lioii of llir ocean and 
 a fiord. (.)\\v of llic mo-^t rrniarkahlf of lliusr is Si-'rlok 
 I'oinl on DInUo Inland, wliirli forms llic lowv^r al)ulnK'nt 
 of ( >oniiak liord \h\\\ the sloi)r ficin^ llu' fiord and 
 thai wliic-li fronts the ocean, tlion.i^h holli arc coni- 
 para.tix'cly gentle, taper to sucli a jjoint that tlie i-rest 
 of tlie mass, more than jooo feet hi^L^h, is so sharj), t!iat 
 no pkice in an\- part of its entire len;.>th from where it 
 emerges out of the- water to ils snnimit is wide enon,i:;li 
 to sui)port a man. 
 
 The A'/A' reached l'perna\ik al)out mi(hii,^ht of July 
 17, and 0.1 l!ie noon of the f)ilowiii!4' diy, the meud)er.s 
 of the exi)e(lilion haN'in,;;- i)aid their respects to Inspector 
 Andersen and Mr. r>yer>, llie m)\ernor of the settle- 
 ment, the \oya.L;e was resumed, the A'/A' 1 eirii; pushed 
 ra])idl\' toward Duck Island. 
 
 The sun shone with all its power and made the day 
 uncomfortably warm. There was also a hea\"\' sea run- 
 u'uv^ andi the \essel pitched and tossed dreadfully. 
 Towards ni.nht. however, the sea h.ad heconie more calm, 
 hut there was a thick foi;-, so that it became impossible 
 to see more than a few boat len,«;ths ahead. Throu<;h 
 this dam]-) curtain the A'/'/r slowl\- .groped her way till 
 moruiu,^, when the fo^ lifted and Dack Island appeared 
 but a few ship's lengths on the starboard. A boat 
 was lowered at once, and an eaj^er lot of hunters 
 were rowed ashore, includin;/ the Professor and our 
 
77//-; /V-;./A'}' RE 1. 1 El' EXPEDITION. 
 
 y • 5 
 
 intcrprL'tiT, Dauit-l, the lattt-r two bciil on llu' iiinR' 
 peaceful occupation of (.■•^j^'- j^atlicrin};-. Within five 
 inituitcs after landinj:;- the hunters were nierri!\ han,^- 
 in<^ away, spreadinj^ carnaj^e and death anioiiL^- the eider 
 ducks which tlew !)>■ the thousands alTrij^hted o\t.r the 
 rocky little island. At length their cartrid.i^es tiaxe out, 
 and one hy one the\- relnetanth- returned owr the 
 rocks to the boat, tired but happy, and bendini; uiuler 
 the \vei>;ht of the lars.^e and toothsome birds they had 
 slau.!nlitered. 
 
 vSoou after the Kil ' once UKnv .^ot under wa\- the foi; 
 came on a.^ain, and progress was so slow that allhoujL^h 
 under favorable conditions it is but a few hours' sail, it 
 was not until early on the foll()win<4- niornin.L; that the 
 vessel entered the dreaded Melville Uay, and was abreast 
 of Devil's Tliund). I'.etween the latter point and the 
 ship was a vast field of ice but to the left and ahead was 
 clear water. 'IMiis was a source of ^reat satisfaction to 
 Captain I'ike, ;is it was at this point the A'//r wascaui^ht 
 last year and detained three weeks by ])ack-iee. 
 
 The A'/A was not to ha\e clear sailing \"er\' lou^, 
 howe\'er, for in three hours after entering- the bay there 
 was ice about on all sides, and Mr. Duinphy v,as ke])t 
 l)us\- in the crow's nest calliu!,;, "port," ">tea(l\," 
 "starboard," "steady," until the \er\- ecb.oes ^eiuted 
 to take u])aud re]ieat the words. l'"oi-lunalely llie I'akes, 
 though uian\- of tluni were miles in extent, were rotten, 
 and when a lead iMided it wa^ eomparati\el\' an easy 
 task tor the A'/A' to butt her wa\- throU''h to tlie next 
 
3i6 
 
 JN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 fin. 
 
 lead without more (lania<j^e than llif smasliin_i,r of a few 
 pieces of loose crocker\- in llie i^allex', so tliat the tyros 
 ill Arctic iiavij^atiou bei^^an to think Melville P)a\- was 
 not the terrible place it had been described. But 
 before midnight the\ were nndecei\-ed. Shortl\ after 
 ten o'clock the\- beheld about them a vast ice-field 
 
 %\ 
 
 ICK-SAir.ING. 
 
 strctchin.u: ahead, and to the east and west, as far as the 
 eye cotild reach in one unbroken sheet, and at the 
 same time the lead behind closed up, leavin.i; the vessel 
 locked in a lake of water barel\- lar^e enou.i;h to 
 hold her. Reluctantly Captain Pike .t^ave the order to 
 ''burn her down," and made preparations to take things 
 
THE PEARY REIJEF EXrEPiriON. 
 
 .^'7 
 
 easy until a lead should open up and kl llie ship 
 throu,>;h. Towards niorninj^ tlii.' chance came, hut a few 
 hours later the vessel was tied up a.^ain, this time 
 enveloped in a dense fo*;. When at length a lead was 
 found, the foi;- still remained, liftin.^ onl\- just 1ou,l;- 
 enou,t^di for the k'ilr to avoid runniniL;- a_i^nuust two ice- 
 bert,^s which towered hi,nh al)o\e the mainmast. 
 
 One of these beri,rs is well known as tlu \ast mountain 
 of ice which has been ,L,rrounded in Melville \\\.\\ since 
 1S57, when it was observed and located 1)\- McClintock. 
 A moment later a faint outline of the .Sabine Islands 
 was seen in the distance and then the foj^^ |\.ll a,L;ain. 
 These Islands ha\-e been the scene of many Arctic trou- 
 bles. Xear them IIa\es was cauoht in 186- iu the 
 Paiillici-. In their vicinity al.st), McClintock floated about 
 all winter in the /v.r, locked fast in the ice. Here, too, 
 tlu' /'i-iiiuss ( 'haii()l((\ counnanded b\- Cajjtain Denchers, 
 was nipped and lost, j^ivin,^- the crew but ten minutes 
 lime to escape. 
 
 Xex'erthcle.ss. rei^ardless of the fo^;-, in spite of the ice, 
 the k'iti- mo\ed more or less steadiK- forward with such 
 good results that earl\- on I'rida\- niornini^, Jul\- 22, she 
 had ]xissed throu.i,di Melville Ua)- and was at Cape York, 
 with a record to her credit of the third fastest passa,^a' 
 ever made through those waters by any expedition ; the 
 first and secon<l best records, it may be remarked, were 
 also made by Captain Tike. 
 

 \i' 
 
 i; 
 
 CTTAPTKK VII. 
 
 Till'; Cai'K VdUK AM) \i:iii;i,rMii': Ivskimos. — DisTuiitrrioN ok 
 
 CflKTS — MiCiniNC, C.IDSON, I)K. CnoK AND VKKIC<)I;1'1'. 
 
 AS the AVA' approaclu'd the shores of Cape York 
 voices wc'R- heard cryiiij^ : " Ki-ino ! Ki-nu) ! " 
 and a iVw iiiinutcs hiter, as the vessel was brous^ht to, 
 the whole Irihe of wild, fnr-clad I'.skiinos, who dwell 
 there, appeared ou the shore. Some made their way to 
 the ship, over the tloe ice, piishin,i; sledj^es, while others 
 came throu,!:;li leads in iiide kajaks. .\ kajaker was the 
 first to come on board, bnt he was speedily followed by 
 the others. More than twenty of them were soon on 
 deck, chatterini^' with all their mi!^;lit and main, and 
 desiruns of tradin.i;. 
 
 Just before arrivin,^- at Cape York, Prof. Ileilprin 
 had directed that a number of the lonj;' hickor\ si)ear- 
 luuidles be brou.i^ht on deck. These the huskies 
 pre.sentl\- esjiied and bei^an to seize, and it was only 
 with the greatest diiricult\- that they could be restrained 
 from remo\inL;' them at once. They then _<;a\e free 
 vent to their curiositx" and swarmed over r\r' ^iliiug, 
 not even the eni^ine-room, the foreca- 'i-, the riL^L^in,!; 
 escai)inj; a \isit. The first efforts . Ileilprin Te 
 
 directed to the obtaining, if possi of some new ^ of 
 Lieut. Pear\ , and with the aid of Danu ., tb interpreter, 
 
Tllh PEARY Rlil.ll.I' EXriiDiriON. 
 
 ;>'9 
 
 1k' fotuid a Cajjc Voik husk if, who said that he had sfcii 
 lVar\- and his party, cnuincnitiii"; ihcin all by nainc, 
 seven jK-rsoiis and two do^s, IK' also (hi'W a chart of 
 the rt'jrion, ])iitlin<4 down with lair corni'tmss ihi' [coi- 
 tion of the tliree islands of Whak' Sound and ol" Cape 
 Cie\-eland on MeCorniiek I>ay, upon which lu' said was 
 the hut or " ij^loo " ol Tcarx-. Afterwards it was ascer- 
 tained that the man had visited the place last winter and 
 spent a month tliere. 
 
 Shortls' after all hands went on shore. The s])ot 
 where we lauded was the suunuer home of the Cai)e \'ork 
 l^skimos. Their dwelliniL^s during this season art.' tents 
 of skin, called " tupics " ; their winter (piarters, or 
 " ij^loos," were some distance further on, and just now 
 dismantled in order to allow the eltuuuts to do a little 
 cleausin,!:; of the interiors. 
 
 There were six tents or tupics in the SLttleuient, and 
 tlu'St' housed prohahh' thirt\' or tliirt\-fi\e men, wouk'U 
 and children. Jndi.;inL; from tlu' numerous caches 
 planted all around, the i^eople had l)eeu exceedingly 
 fortunate in their season's huulin^ and were la\ iui^ up 
 a m'ood store of food for wintrr use. 
 
 The uatiws of Cape \'ork si-tui to hr r.ipidly advauc- 
 inj;' in their knowledL^x- of the uses of tin.' kajak, for 
 when the I\ary parl\' and tlu- \\\st ( irerulaud expedi- 
 tion visited the place last \-ear tlie\- found hut two 
 of the rudest characltr ; ])Ut this yiar e\(.r\ man owned 
 one of the.se useful boats, and thesi' of a greatly impro\cd 
 pattern, thoni,di yet far troni bcinin as handsome in model 
 
>t, 
 
 I 
 
 320 
 
 IN ARCTIC Si:.lS. 
 
 as those of South (irt'ciiland. They h;i\-e, however, the 
 acIvantaiLie of <;reater ])eain and therefore are not lu-aily 
 so cranky. 
 
 Next to tlieir kajaks and do.i^s, it was evident that 
 the Cape York ICskinios prized a <;^un, and the three 
 weapons of this character in this settlement were jeal- 
 ously cherished. Two of these were rilles which they 
 had received from the West (Greenland party last year, 
 and were repeaters. The third j^un, ho^vcycr, was a 
 curiosity. It was an old musket barrel to which a huskie 
 had fitted a stock made out of a piece of one inch pine 
 board, and to which he had attached, very in<jenionsly, a 
 hannner and tri,L,^<;er rauufactured out of an old si.\- 
 penny nail and a piece of ivory. No wdiite man would 
 have discharjred the •^wn for any consideration, but its 
 owner had no such feelinj^ and fired off a load of powder 
 which was j^iven him, without mis«;^ivin,t^s, .scemin<;ly 
 very proud of the way it banjjjed. 
 
 At Cape York the first distribution of .tjifts sent b\' the 
 ])euevolent people of I'hiladelphia for the I^skimos was 
 made, and surely, had those who contributed the material 
 witnes.scd the .scene, they vv'ould have felt satisfied that 
 their charity was well bestowed. Tl. Ivskimos were 
 taken aboard ship v/lie/e the\' were drawn up in line and 
 each individiud >j^iven some articles useful to him 
 in his (1; ily li*"e. To the men were presented wooil fi)r 
 sled<;es and kajaks and the tools wherewith to isuike 
 them — saws, files, knives, planes, braces and ' its, also 
 some of the hickorx' spear handles and iron for h.arpoons. 
 
77//; PEARY RELIEI- KXPI:IVriOh\ 
 
 TIr- wuod, which is more precious tlian <;ol(l, was .v- 
 ceivcd with the lix'cHcst manilcslatioiis of pleasure aud 
 the wouieu nearly went wild over the thimbles, knives, 
 scissors, needles and kettles which were bestowed uihui 
 them. 
 
 When the distribution was over the recipients ran 
 around the deck liowlinj; and sin<;in,i; for \er\- joy, aud 
 of Daniel they repeatedly asked, wh\- it was the\- were 
 <^^'•en such precious thin_^-s for nothin*;-. He was 
 directed to explain, sayinjj^, afier he liad done as re- 
 quested : "I speakeni American man i^ood. They 
 savve\' me, and spcakem American man i)leuty ,<;<)od, 
 and say thank you." 
 
 After they had been cpiieted down the\' were taken 
 into the forecastle and <;iveu a hearty repast, which had 
 been ordered to l)e prepared for them b\' Captain Pike, 
 and from the way they devoured what was set before 
 them it was evident they enjoyed their meal. 
 
 At length, and after .some difficulty, the natives were 
 cleared off, and the Kite resumed her voya.^e, runniu!^'- 
 along the famous Crimson ClilTs, so-called from their 
 peculiarly bright red color, caused by the lichens and red 
 snow which covers their granite rocks. As progress was 
 made the glaciers, which hitherto had been seen (>iil\' at 
 wide intervals, now followed each otluM" in rapid sueces- 
 siou, some couiparati\el\- small in extent, others of 
 enormous dimensions. Xo two were alikt' ; they were 
 of a bewildering varietN' of forms, ad\aneiug. retreating, 
 falling, hanging, some winding through tortuous valleys, 
 
I 
 
 nwvMnmiHi 
 
 322 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 
 'I: 
 
 ullicrs swccpiiij;- strai<;lit from the threat ice-cap, which 
 rose everywhere in a threat dome l)e\()U(l the hills, while 
 still another class was almost flat like a iinr (/(■ .i,'A^v. 
 ( )iie j^^lacier was apparently smooth and withont crev- 
 asses, another cnt with fri.^htfn! seams and chasms ; 
 some terminated on he land, while others discharmd 
 their streams of ice di.ectK' into the sea. < )ne of these 
 rivers of ice, which is c; lied the I'etowik glacier, is o\er 
 seven miles across, and its face ])rojectin]4 above the sea 
 is estimated to be more than 100 feet hij^h. 
 
 Abont midnii^ht of Jnl\' 22, the A'/A arrived at Conical 
 Rock, a small cone-shapt-d island, where search was 
 made for traces t)f the l'ear\ ]Kirly, who had promised 
 to lea\e snch in case the\- made an early stiirt st.nthward 
 in open boats. l']) to this time, while llu' weather hail 
 been freiinentK' cold, it had not been nnc(fnifortabl\ so, 
 bnt here for the first time in addition to tin- low tempera- 
 Inre, which stood at V' < 'i strong wind was blowini;. 
 and for j^reater comfort the \n'^ winter nlsters wire 
 bron^ht out and ])roved none loo warm. Tlu' k'i/i' 
 steamed slowh' around the island and e\er\ point 
 was carefulh' scanned, bni without finding an\ thiui; to 
 indicate that tlie persons sou;^Iit had been there, and the 
 ship was headed for W'olstenholnie Island on a >iuiilar 
 search. This place was reachi-d four hours later. 
 
 When last winter it was determined to send an 
 expedition to the rtlief of Lieut. l'ear\' and \\\s jiartw 
 Professor Ileilpriu had sent a barril containin.14 a Utter 
 to that efi'ect to St. Johns, with a reipiest that it be 
 
 ni^ 
 
 
i m 
 
 THE PEAR Y REL lEF EX PR PI TION. 3 23 
 
 forwarded by some whaler to Wolstenliolnie Island for 
 deposit on its west side, the side most likeh' to be 
 visited by a retreatinj^ jxxrty. The l)arrel was ujiven in 
 chartre of Captain JelTrey Phillii)s, of the steamship 
 l\skimos, who faithfully performed the work entrnsted to 
 him. The barrel was readiK' fonnd ; it was j;andily 
 painted and set on a jirominent roek and fnrther indi- 
 cated by a fla<;stalT. ( )n examining; its contents, in 
 addition to the letter it contained from the Professor, 
 another was found from Captain Phillips, as follows : 
 
 vS. S. IvSKiMos, June 13, 1892. 
 To iMKt. R. E. Pcny\\ I '. .V. \. : 
 
 Sir: — This cask was delivered to me at St. Johns, to 
 be left for von at Wolstenliolnie Island. \Visliiii<r vou 
 every success in your undertakinj^r^ and with the hope 
 that this will find you all well, I am fiithfull\- yours, 
 
 Ji;i-i-ki;v Piiii.i.ips. 
 
 From the time the ship left rpernavik to lu-r arrival at 
 Wolslciiholnie Island those aljoard inr had bci'ii treated 
 to almost continuous fo^s, or to chilly and l^Ioouu- daxs ; 
 but soon after lfa\in^ this island the atniosplKiv cleared 
 as 1;' by maj^ic. The sk\- bicanie blue, the sun shone 
 out ()ri,!L,ditl\', and the temperature rose rapidh' from the 
 tVee/in^ ])oiut until it beeauie almost uueonilortabh- 
 warm. In fii't, b\ llie time C.ipe Parr\ was ueareil, and 
 at the sttlleuuut of the N'eluluuiie P'.skinios, all hands 
 were perspiriui; as iVeth' a> on a Jul\ dav at home. 
 The.se Ivskimos, who were uiiNtaken last \ear lor the 
 
I iijiiiiiviwpm»«imiMpi 
 
 ^•■"»»-m.CT>J 
 
 324 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 Ittiblus apiK-art'd, if aiu tliin.i;, nu)rc joxful at tlu- ap- 
 proacli of the ship tliaii those of Cape York, and 
 swaniied about the " ooiniakswa," as tlie\- call lari^e 
 vessels, with incessant cries of " Ki-nio ! Ki-nio ! " (wel- 
 come ! welcome!) Ivir wiUler in dress and appearance 
 than tlie natives at Cape York, they were \ et the same 
 
 SVAWTI:N Ill'K. 
 
 filth\-, i^ood-natnri'd huskies, that clambered o\er th^- 
 shi])'s side and stood upon the dick, chattering like par- 
 rots and lau,nhin>4 at iverythin:^ in si^ht, including; the 
 members' own precious ])ersons. Those of tlie part\- 
 who snlfered the most in tliis i)articular were the unfor- 
 tunates who wi're comjielled to wear glasses, and later. 
 
TIfE PEARY RELIEE EX/'EPmON. 
 
 325 
 
 on shore, tliosc who slunibk'd and IVII whik- cliinbiu}^ 
 over the rocks. ThcsL' last the huskies (Irrisivcly 
 called "pickaninnies"' (ehildreii), and anionj; those who 
 earned the title was jolly Captain Pike. 
 
 Captain I'ike, howevir, returned ^ood for evil hy 
 j;ivin}j^ them a ^ood meal, wh.ieh 11k\- dexonred with 
 that ravenous ai)])etite said, not unjustly, to be one of the 
 chief characteristics of the dwellers of the .\retic regions. 
 When their appetites had been s;itisfied, the xoyai^ers 
 went ashore to visit them at their tupics, which numbered 
 eleven, and sheltered thirt\-six men, women and eiiil- 
 dren. The settlement is deliiL^htfull) situali-d on the 
 northeast side of Uorden I>ay, where the i.;rass ^r.w 
 hi.xurianth' and other ve.L^etalion abounded. 
 
 lM)r an hour or more after landin^^ the place ])rt.-senti.(l 
 a livelv scene. Xeedles, knixes, scissors, thimbles and 
 other useful things were produced from the capaciou.s 
 pockets of the members of the expedition and exhibited 
 to the delighted Ivskinios, who ea^erlx' aecepti'd tluni in 
 exchange for lo\s, artic-les used in the hunt and house- 
 hold, so that when the barttrin^; \v;;s o\er, the .Vt-adeniy 
 of Natural vScii'iices h:id secur'.d a riidi collection of 
 West Cirei-uland ethuolo.i^ical material. In the tradin<; 
 both parties were' satisfied ; the members of the relief 
 expedition considered that tlie\- ,i^ot more than \alue 
 i^iven, whiU- the huskies firnd\ belieAcd tlu'\- h id the 
 advantaj^e of tlu- explorers. II i\im^ fiuislud tradini;, as 
 at Cape York a distribution of ^il'lswas in order, and the 
 men, women and chililren were made almost liantically 
 
IHh. 
 
 In 
 
 326 
 
 IN ARTCIC SEAS 
 
 happ>- by the abmulaucc of wood aiul materials for kajaks, 
 slcd_t;es atul harpoons. vSo excited did the\- beeoine that 
 the noses of fnlly one-half of the jieople bled profnsely 
 (said to be a pecnliarit\- of the l^skinios when dee])ly 
 moved) ; and when at lenj^th the k'/fc sailed away, she 
 was followed for more than a mile by excited kajakers, 
 yellinj^ " Tapansi, American man!" and one, to show 
 his jrratitnde, rowed close to the ship's side and threw 
 his harpoon line aboard, with the exclamation, " \Von<;a 
 pclitay ibli " (I (j^ive it to you). 
 
 At liaklnyt Island was pa.ssed a ctirions formation 
 known as Hell Rock, which excited the admiration 
 of everybody on board. The rock is a nearly circular 
 shaft of ba.salt which rises more than 600 feet above 
 the water and throui^h an innnen.se ialiis takes on the 
 exact form of a bell. It is brout>^ht out in stron<j;er 
 relief by the pure white backjj;^ronnd t)f a lari^e _i»lacier 
 and the ice-cap shininj^- as white to the ri.i^ht and left. 
 
 The AVA' was now within oidy a few hours' journes- t)f 
 iMcCormick I'ay and the excitement of the members of 
 the relief expedition rose almost to fever heat. When 
 at lenj^th the outermost ca])e of the bay came into view 
 the majrnificeut panorama of the coast was disre<;-arde(l. 
 All ex'es were ea,i;erl\' directed towards the cape with 
 the wild hope that somethins^ of I'ear\'s part\- mi^ht be 
 seen, thoni^h it was still ten miles olT to Rrd ClilT House. 
 
 iCven Captain Pike eauiL^ht the infectious excitement 
 and kept the air fdled with the booming- of the little 
 cannon and the shrill shrieks of the steam whistle. 
 
THE PEARY RELIEl- EX/'E/^/T/ON. 327 
 
 PrfSfiitK- Mr. Diiiiipliy, who was in tlic crow's-nest 
 directin.o; the A'/a'.v jkissu.ljc' tlirou«>:li tlit- icL'-sIu'cts, with 
 a yt'll aiiiioutici.-(I that he saw a nioviii<j;- speck on the 
 water at the entrance of McCorniick Hay. Telescopes 
 were ininiediateh- trained on tlie phice iiuHcated. The 
 speck was seen, ])hick a<;ainst a lni>;e while icel)ero, 
 bnt so small that nothint:^ conld be made of it, except 
 that it was niovini^^ towards tlie k'/'/c. Slowly — oh ! how 
 slowly to the anxions minds of those on hoard — the 
 object (j^rew lar^^er and finally took on the form of a 
 boat, in which were a number of persons. Then Mr. 
 Dumphy, still in his post at the to]) of the foremast, 
 sent a spasm of terror into the breasts of the partv by 
 .shontin.s;- in an excited tone: "HyCod, sir, they're all 
 huskies in that whale boat ! They've killed the Pearv 
 party," bnt he almost instantlx set all rij^^ht bv cryinj^r 
 jo\fnlly, " Xo, they're not, sir; they're wavin.t,r their 
 arms; they're all ri^lit ! " I5y this time the anxions 
 ones on board the AV/r cotdd see for themselves. There 
 were .several ])ers()ns in the boat. JSome of them were 
 wax'int^ their arms and seemed to be jumpini;^ np and 
 <lown, while the others were pnllinii,'- at the oars as for 
 their lives. Then, a few moments later, when the occu- 
 pants were rec()^ni/(.(l as a portion of the lVar\- part\- 
 who were bein^- rowed bv Ivskinios, the scene on board 
 was almost beyond descri])tion. 
 
 Sailors not on (lnt\- were in the rij^'nin^- xellin.^, the 
 .second mate still in the crow's nest shouted himself 
 hoarse, while the nuMubers of the exi)e(lition were cheer- 
 
328 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 li! 
 
 '1: 
 
 iiitj, shaking eacli other by llic- liaiids and bL-havinj^ like 
 men l)crcft of their senses. I Jut the supreme nu)nient 
 came when the boat arrived al(jnj^side and Dr. Cook, 
 Mr. (iibson and Mr. X'crlioeiT climbed tip the side of 
 the vessel and spranjj^ on deck. Every one of the mem- 
 bers of the relief exjx-dition and the officers and crew 
 of the Kitr crowded around them with e.\idtin<r 
 handshakes and almost Insterical j^rcctinji^s. The 
 three men appeared in splendid condition, niu.scular- 
 lookinjj^, deeply tanned by exposure and, with the ex- 
 ception of Mr. N'erhoeff, were dressed in full Eskimo cos- 
 tumes — reindeer coat and trousers and seal-skin boots 
 that reached almost to their knees. 
 
 After the ff recti nj^s were over, inquiries were made for 
 Ivieut. and Mrs. Peary, Mr. Astru]) and the colored ser- 
 vant Hen.son. It was then learned that Lieut. Peary's 
 leg had become sound a!^'ain and that he and Mr. 
 Astrup were on their threat journey over the inland ice, 
 but were expected back daily, and that Mrs. Peary and 
 Henson had been for the ten days previoiis campiu}^ at 
 the head of McCormick Bay awaitinj; their return. 
 
 By the time these questions had been asked and an- 
 swered the Kile had passed the entrance of INIcCormick 
 Bay and had been broujj^ht to in front of Lieut. Pear\'s 
 winter quarters. It was a few minutes after eleven 
 o'clock on the ni^ht of Juh' 23. 
 
 ( 
 
 
 
 i j ^^^H 
 
 
 '. '-IHI 
 
 
 If iHI 
 
 
 li 
 
 U 
 
 
CHAI'TICR VI I r. 
 
 N'KWS OK TlIM ;;itll''S AKKIVAI. TAKl^.N To .MkS. ri-AKV. — IvSKIMO 
 
 Sic.Ns ni- Ac.i:.— Attack INC, Tirn Rk-cai'. 
 
 A IvTiloriill it was near iiiiduight when tlic k'ile 
 -^^ slowed uj) opposite I'eary's lieadcinarters, the 
 snn slione with noonday bri^ditness, and with finslied 
 faces, to whicli tlie warmth of the weatlier contributed 
 ahont evenly with the excitement of the recent nieetinj^, 
 and tremblin.i,'- with snppressed ea<,a'rness and impatience, 
 scarce waitinj^- for the ])ro])eller to cease revolvin.i;, the 
 relief party manned the lonjj^ boat. (Jnickly lluy rowed 
 ashore toward Red ClifT Honse in which Lient. and Mrs. 
 I'eary and their companions had spent ihe winter, and 
 the I':skimos' settlement which had within the \ear of 
 their sojonrn spnni,«;- np aromid it. Wlun llu\ had 
 landed Dr. Cook detailed a luiskie to carr\- word to 
 Mrs. Teary of the arrival of the AV/r, and at tlie same 
 time take to her a i)acka,t,a- of letters from her relatives 
 ill the Tnitel Slates. The distance to Mr>. IV-ar\\s 
 camp was fifteen miles, but this notwithstanding;, and 
 althon.i^h the presence of a ship is aiiol)jc(tof alnio>t 
 irresistible attraction for the avera-e hiiskie, Ivpia, tlie 
 native selected b\- Dr. Cook, without a ninnmir made 
 preparations for his jonriie\-, and in less than half an 
 honr was paddlin^- away in his kajak on his errand. 
 
 lin .'( 
 
\t 
 
 !i ■::« 
 
 
 33 
 
 /A' .lA'C 7VC S/':.^S. 
 
 SdiiicwIkiv iboul fux' o'chjck in ihu murning Ecjua 
 arrived at the hcatl of McCorniick Bay, and almost 
 burstiniLj; with tlu- news Ik- had, rushed to the tent where 
 Mrs. l'ear\ was sleeping; ealnih , and without an\ cere- 
 nion\- ])oked his liead within and shouted that tlie 
 "oouiiakswa" was eouie. The noise lie uiade as well 
 as the intelli<;enee he brou.i^ht roused Mrs. I*ear\- to full 
 wakefulness at onee; hut, althonj^h she had alwaxs 
 looked forward to the possibility of a relief expedition 
 coniin>,S she knew somethiu}^ of the jokiuj^ habits of the 
 natives, and was inclined to disbelieve the talc Kqua 
 brou^dit. She told hiui so in <^ood Eskimos, a lan<j;ua<re 
 which has the merit of brevity as well as directness. 
 Not at all abashed or hurt at this doubt cast upon his 
 veracity, Ivpia, like the j^ood-natured huskie that he was, 
 inunediateh- pro\ed his truthfulness by producin<j[ the 
 letters and adding- tlu' information that Professor Heilprin 
 was coming; to see Ik r the ne.xt day . Havinjj^ thus vindi- 
 cated his character, Hcpia betook himself once more to his 
 kajak and paddled back with all speed to the settlement 
 to join in the festivities which he felt must be in pro- 
 gress there. 
 
 Mrs. Peary's feelini^s ou realizin.i; that a parts' had 
 come to their rescue can oul\' be ima.i^ined; she sa\s she 
 was full of jo\' and thankfulue.ss and there can be no 
 doubt of the siuceritN' of her e.\ press ions, for howe\-er 
 uiucli she and hir husband and their companions ma\ 
 ha\e beliewd in the feasibility of the jtroposed escape 
 to I'peruavik in open whale boats, the prospect of such 
 
77/ A' /V-.-./A"}' h'/-:/. //■:/■ /X/'/i/UV/chV. XM 
 
 a journey and the almost CL-rlain lianlsliips wliii-h must 
 attend it, could not liaxe hi'tii of llir nio>l ])ka>ant 
 cliaracter. 
 
 Meanwhile the first happy Imnrs of nurliuL: wire 
 
 i . !. 1 Ml l> \ 1 1< l.!i I I.I I 1 I I' H Ml,. 
 
 cnjowd 1)\- llu' rc-litf ]y.\v[v and tin- [\\\\-v u-mainin^ 
 nKMnl)cT> of llu' lV-ar\ i-xpfdilidu al thr lKadi|narli.i>. 
 TliL-x- lookc-d throuL;!! iIk eo/\ lillli- Red Clilf IIoiim- 
 — as thr Aretie mansion was ralU-d from ihr t-ol«ir oi' tlir 
 cliffs near Cape Cleveland— and tluA wandered alioiit 
 
Ill 
 
 33a 
 
 /N .IKCTIL SJiAS. 
 
 IW 
 
 I 
 
 iiiiiuiiL; llu- lii])ifs of llu- iiali\i'>, kcipiiii^ up tin- imaii- 
 wliiK' a fiiusiaiil iiiti rrliau'^i' ol' in.\v>. \\'Iui(.\ci llu'V 
 Willi liif\ wnv Idllowtd !)■ iIk' l'",>l<iiii(i>. iiKii, woimu 
 a. 1(1 (.•liililnii, 1(1 wlioiii llu' w liiti' iiuu jiisl ariiwd wvw as 
 j^iial i'urii).-«iliLS as i1k'\ llKin^iht-s wiiv to iIk' wliili.' 
 iiKii. TIk')- ciilicis(.(l llifir clotliiiij;, lluir iirIIkkI xf 
 spcakinu; was cause of surprise ; hut llial wliit'Ii sffiiK'd 
 to (.xcile the j^rcatfst aiiia/ctiR'Ht in the minds of ihesc 
 j)c'(ipk' were tlie heavy hoards which ad<>nied the faces 
 of all the part\- with one exception. As hair l)e,!:;ins to 
 j^row on the faces of the axera^^e ICskinio onh' as old 
 aj^fe a])proac!ies, the abundant hirsute j^rowth about the 
 mouths and chins of the visitors seemed to the nati\es 
 conclnsi\e proof that all were " very ancient men," and 
 the\- marveled j^reatly that such old persons should 
 have so upri_i;ht a carria,i;e and walk with such vij^or- 
 ous stei)s. In this respect also Dr. Cook had been all 
 winter a source of wonderment, for he too wore ;i 
 heav\' l)eard. 
 
 .\bout three or four o'clock in the morniu}^ the members 
 of the relief expedition returned on board the A'iic to rest. 
 
 On Monda\- mornin*i^, the day followinj^, all but three 
 of the relief expedition and Messrs. Ciibson and VerlioefF 
 with a number of Eskimos, rowed to Herbert Island .some 
 twenty miles distant on a reindeer hunt. Two others 
 of the i)art\- with Daniel, the interpreter, ascended the 
 clilTs behind Red ClifT House and made an attack 
 on the inland ice, while Professor Heilprin tramped 
 to the head of the bav on a visit to Mrs. Pearv. He 
 
'HIE rii ANY Rl.l.llil- E\ni-.l)lTIOi\. 
 
 .V^.^ 
 
 I 
 
 spent M'\<.T;il li()ur> with lin, (luring; wliie'li Ik- uri^nl tlk- 
 propiict) of luT iituniiiiiL; to tlu- Rid Clill lloiisr to 
 await tlu- (.•oiiiiii"; ot" I.iiut. I'rar\ llu'if iiistrad of in tMtnp. 
 In (li)iii<4 this I'ntlVsNor ILilpriii was lunscd h\ the i-on- 
 sitk-ratinii that li\in^^ in i-atnp in isolatinn, an<l U'ft a 
 pri'\ to htr own thonj^hts, Mrs. IV-ary would hrood onxt 
 lu-r hnsl)an<rs i-ontiinicd ahstiu-i-. To his surprise and 
 plcasiuf, liow(.\<.r, lu- found that tin.- yonnj; wife's con- 
 fidence in him was so conipUte that she had not the 
 slij^jhtest doubt of his returning in safet\' to her within 
 a few days of the time he expected. .She persisted in 
 her determination to remain and he the first to welcome 
 Lieut. IVary back from his journey over the j^reat ice- 
 cap, and when Professor Ileilpriii learned this he cca.sed 
 his efTorts to induce her to come to Red ClifT Hon.sc and 
 join the party. 
 
 In the meanwhile the party of three who liad under- 
 taken to make an attack on the ice-cap, traveled from 
 the shore back to the clifTs over a succession of ancient 
 sea beaches risinj^ one above the otl'.er like terraces, all 
 of them lieinjr thickh' strewn with shells. iHowers 
 were found there jL^rowinjj; in wild jjrofusion, and butter- 
 flies and moths and bees without stints flew >,Mil\ about. 
 Reachin}4' the cliffs the ascent was bej^nm and continued 
 laboriously to the summit, which was reached at a 
 hci<jht of about i^oo feet above sea level. Here a <;reat 
 stretch of t.d)le-land was come upon which extended 
 riiiht ar.d left and two or three miles towards the interior. 
 Tile snriace was perfect!) fiat and for the most part 
 
3.M 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 W 
 
 t" 
 
 \ 
 
 iniuldy and <^c'nerally covered with small sloiics and 
 pebbles. Muddy and stony as this jj^round was, howe\er, 
 as on the slielvin<;' beaches just traversed, flowers _t;rew 
 j)lentifully, the poppies especially beiuj; so thick that 
 the (ground seemed covered ))/ a yellow carpet. 
 
 Two or three miles inland the edge of the eternal ice- 
 cap was reached. I)e_i;innin<^ with neve or j^ranular ice, 
 coveriu}^ the j^round only a few inches deep, as the party 
 proLjressed it was found to f,M()w deeper and firmer and 
 j^radually harden into the clear blue ice which in the 
 interior of (rreenland reaches a thickness of many 
 thousand feet. This ice, however, docs not appear t)n 
 the surface. It is covered by a layer of snow var\in^- 
 from one to six or more feet in depth, frozen over with a 
 thin crust, sometimes firm enouj>;h to bear a man's 
 wei<;ht, but ofteuer just stronj;- enough to be delusi\c 
 and let the pedestrian through at the moment he fancies 
 he is the most secure from such a catastrophe. I'or hun- 
 dreds and hundreds of miles this great ice-cap rolls east 
 a'.id west and for the whole length of ( ireenland north 
 and south it extends, with a cold white glare that is mo>t 
 terrifyi'ig. Indeed no lixing bviug save a white man 
 will \euture upon it. It is sliunned l)y the Ivskiums 
 and all native animals and birds alike. 
 
 The little ixirt\ traxersed this iee-field ior a mile or 
 two and then returned to tlu' ship, and early the next 
 morning the hunters came fro!u IIerl)ert Island with 
 several reindeer as proof of their prowess. 
 
 I ' I 
 
I !: 
 
 
 CHAI'TICK IX. 
 
 I.N Smu'ii SiHMi. - II \\i s' W'intiu < m \ur! ks — 'I'll i: k i. 1'.\k- 
 i-'ii:k. — W.M.urs IltNiisc,. Tin; iviMi .\ni> oiiii.u l'..\rKi.Miv 
 Ni)UTiii:i<i.\' Si.tti,i;mi..nts, 
 
 ASCl'.RT.MNIXC. tlial I.irul.lVan was lianllx likely 
 to Rluni iVdiii till.' inland iix- hrlnvi.- ilir Imirlh or 
 fiflli of .\a:.;asl. rrotVsMir I Kilpriu, afk-r .1 (.Mn-^iillaliou 
 with his c()'.n])aiiiiiiis au'l Captain I'ikr, (I'.'ii niimd >>u 
 niak!n;.4 an rllorl ti) RMclt llu- L;i\al llnnilxiMl (ilaiaii". 
 This vast riw I" of icr, w'.iich rvUniK lVi>ni I'n- M.-\c-nl\- 
 iiinlh li) ihf ri;.;!ili(.'l]i paralU-1, i> brlii-wd li> !):.■ ihr lar,;- 
 r.-^l in th.- WMvld, ami nn nr^ani/nl aUnnjil li.i> (.Air l)i';.-u 
 made ti> (.'xpltMr it. 
 
 'I'll;' start wa- niadi nn thr ninriiin;^ of Tnixl.ix , JnK' 
 j6. ICarh in the- arinno.in tin A'//, jia^-id C.ipr .\k\- 
 aadci, mack' fanions in .\rrtic (.xpcilition ■, ,M;d i.nU;(.(l 
 .Sniitii Sonnd. I'loni this point tlu- .\iin:'ir.in --htiiv 
 ciinld ])v scxai (piitt.' pi.iinh , ami hry.iad it t!i;- ]>■.■, d-; of 
 Monnt IlDlton. ri>in;^ liiL^h ah^w- tin.' survdnmlin ; CMna- 
 try. It w.i-. a hi-Mntifal d.i\ ,uid the ■-(.•, i Ir.in:; i-nni- 
 parati\-t.d\ iVr.- from iiw tlu- A'/A \v.i> k<.])t id-i-; u, kcid 
 so that thr ronfii^nration of ilie coa^t conld tin- luttcr l)c 
 ol)scr\c'd. TIk' L;Iai-iei> all ah >n^ ai\- larm- •""' nnnu-rous, 
 and tlirs(.\ with t!ii- hold ,ind rnL;u;'--d loa^t linr. (■ond»imil 
 to a scciK r\- of sin''nlar l)(.-,uit\ and inlrit. -^t. Si inu tiinis 
 
""■ I iMiiiiipiaipnipH 
 
 336 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 1 1 
 
 H 
 
 % 
 
 for miles the clifis wt-rc almost fntirc-U bare of snow, 
 aj^aiii they were buried deep i'l the mantle of winter. 
 This was the more eurious in that the hills seemed all 
 about till- same altitude — 2(kx) feet. The rock effects, 
 too, were odd ; such, perha])s, as Clreenlaud only can 
 exhibit. The strata were broken and contorted in every 
 direction, a)id assumed nu)st remarkable and jj^rotesque 
 shapes. The colorin.i; also was e.\tremel\- be;;utiful — 
 red, brown, ji^reen, purple and white beiuj^ the pre\ ail- 
 \\\'^ hues. In stron.;- contrast to this picture was Jae 
 American side. .\"u u^- the coast line north and south 
 and inland to the horizon not a bare rock was to be seen. 
 Kverythin;^ appeared to be covered by one \-ast ice sheet 
 that gleamed cold and white in the sunli}.;ht without a 
 sparkle. Indeed from Disko all the wav up to the j)oint 
 now reached there was little to be seen on the (ireenland 
 coast to remind one of the cold and rijj^or v '" the climate. 
 The air for the most part had been balmy and sprin<rlike, 
 and insects, birds, flowers and j^rass were abundant. Hut, 
 gazinj^- at this desolate .\merici'.n shore, one realized for 
 the first time that there were within the Arctic circle 
 spots to be shunned by livin<^- beinj;s, and that there was 
 •son.e .ground for the terror which is j^enerally inspired 
 bv the suj^-.ijestion of a jtnirne\ to the far North. 
 
 Soon after doiiblin<; Cape .\lexander we saw and 
 presently pa.sscd I'oint b^oidke, one of the boundaries of 
 Hartstene Ha\ , a place made miinorable by Dr. Hayes, 
 who spent one winter lli<re. It is an ideal spot fo an 
 Arctic winter (quarters. Sheltered by clilTs, which tower 
 
I ;. 
 
 THE PEARY REIJEF RXPEnniON. 
 
 -5 -* •* 
 
 more tlian 2()(k) feci in almost sheer precipices, and coiii- 
 man(lin<4 a splendid view of the sea, one can well believe 
 the stor\' that Hayes and his part\- had what tlicN- called 
 a " n-j^nlar i)icnic"' dnrin^; the winter of iS6()-V)i. 
 
 All aronn;! now was historical iLironnd. Not far below 
 Point I'^onlke is the i)oint of land on which Captain 
 Pike spent the first ni.^ht after the wreck of the ProUus^ 
 jnst two days over nine \ears a)^o. A few miles alx)ve 
 is I/itlleton Island, at which the A'/A' arrived a few hours 
 later. Here was fonnd a (piantitN' of coal which had 
 been cached on the island for the nse of the Cireely party 
 should they reach the place. 
 
 Up to this time e\er\ tiling had j^one smoothly with 
 ns and all sij^ns i)ointed to a speedy and snccessfnl voy- 
 a.ije to the Hnnd)oldt (ilacier, if not fnrther. Pnt for 
 once fortune ceased to smih; on the e\])e<lition. About 
 ten o'clock on the nij^ht of July 25 the ice blink was 
 seen in the sky ahead, and exacth' at tweKe o'clock the 
 Kilr ran her bow into a solid (leld of ice, which extended 
 without a break from the (ireenhuxl to the .\merican 
 shores, nuikinjj;- an impassible barrier to further pro- 
 ^•ress. 
 
 Captain Pike made the \esscl fast, and announced 
 with e\ident satisfaction that \\v coiild take the Kilt- no 
 fnrther ; that we on^ht to be satisfied an\ how, as no 
 other XLSSel except the . lc/:'tiihi' and tlie /^i/iir/s had i'\er 
 j^ot so far north on the ( ireeniaud . le as this one had. 
 Captain Pike had not been hilarious at au\ timi' o\-er 
 this supplementary trip, and none of the part)' could 
 
Mi 
 
 H 
 
 ?2¥*f^'WW!!BBSHBRl 
 
 3,1^ 
 
 IN ARCTIC SliAS. 
 
 \V^ 
 
 1: 
 
 I'laiiu- liiiu, Inr iVmii tlir ^liip un-. plaiiilv \ i^illl^• tin- ^])()t 
 wIhIT IIk- ri'dli ii\ \va^ losl, ami llu- phu'c llu-irtnic- CDiild 
 uol lia\i- si'iy ])Uasaiil ass(icMalii>n> for liiiii. 
 
 It was iiiidiiiLjht, ami wilIi tlu- smi \\v^\\ in tin- Imri/on, 
 tlif sciMii- was oiii' til It.' mm inlnitd. .\li(a<l nl tin- 
 \TSM'l ua> till' .!.;!t-at luM of ici\ ti-ii fri'l or imui- thick, 
 il> siiil.n'c l)roki;i witji L^iiat doim-s and lininniocks, all 
 sliiiiiuL; ill till- luiidit siinliijil liki- uliilr iiiarlili . ( )ii 
 llu- ri^lit was tin- < "ii\Tiiiaiid coast, with il^ ]niriil(d nd 
 c'lifls adoi-i'.cil with ^rrtii :-;iass and moss ; on the Ufl the 
 Aniiiicaii slioir in its white nianllr of pcrpitual snow. 
 ( )n this last-naninl coast, jnsl sonth of U'-, \\a^ the sccm- 
 of the rioliiis disistci, and jiist al)o\e, ,;lniosi alua.n, 
 wa-' Capt- Sahinc, where ("iiciK and his ]i,n1\ ■^ntlered 
 sncli honiii>. r.e\<ind this coaM h- -een on the -..nic 
 shore-. Cape I lawks, \\'ashin;^loa l;\iii^ Island, Cane 
 Konis Napoleon, and nearKas lai north as the iiL;htielli 
 paralKl. On the ( Mciidand coa-l , wiihin half \\\ hoar's 
 journtA, was Kenssi laer i'.av, when I )r. Kan-- .uiij his 
 part\ spent the wintcr^of iS^^ and i'^',S|. 'ind snileriil, 
 and ahandoned their ship, the -ianneji .\<i\iiihi\ 
 
 While all wia'c .L^a/in^; n]ton the silciit, wild desolati. ai, 
 the scenes anioii;^ which many dariii'^ t\pIorer~> ui.di r- 
 went haid^hip-, and --oine met de.ilh, the ,L;real stiMness 
 was snddeid\ intcnnpti'd 1>\ the harkin;^ o!" a do',^ from 
 the ( iici'idand sliore. All started, lliinkiiyi; it niiy^ht In- 
 one of the.ininrds lieliMiL^inL; to Lient. I'ear. \\\\v Kih wa-- 
 I'ast loosi- iVoni the ice and lu r prow turiied I'oast- 
 ward. 
 
X 
 
 ^'■ 
 
 ■^ 
 
 %-■ 
 
 \ 
 
 . ik 
 
 ti^'A 
 
 M 
 
 '.f- 
 
 
mm 
 
 \h 
 
TIN-: rEARY RIH.IEF EXPEDITION. 
 
 34' 
 
 Shf had not gone far wlu'n ihc strange barkings were 
 heard on iver) side, and tlic ni\stcr\ was solved ; \vc 
 were in thi' midst of a \ast herd of walr.is. 
 
 The Inige animals were either 1\ ing on the tloes fast 
 asleej) or swimming, diving and barking. The longboat 
 was ])rom])tly lowered, filled with enthnsiastie hnnters, 
 who pnshed oil" in elrase. Coming upon agronpof walnis 
 do/ing n])on a eake of iee abont half a mile from the 
 ship, the\' fned into them and killed two. The others 
 dived off the iee and disappeared as thongh in flight, 
 lint if any of the hnnters in that long boat entertained 
 sneh an idea it was soon dissipated. ( )ne of them, a 
 great bull walrns, presently eaine to the snrfaee about a 
 hundred yards or s(^ from the boat and swam ra])idly 
 awav, roaring londl\' and horribly as lie did so. It 
 seemed almost as thongh lit; was ealling for assistanee to 
 wreak \iugeanee on the slaxers of two of liis eomrades. 
 lie it as it may, the water was soon fairh' alive with an 
 angry, bellowing herd, so ninnerous that Mr. Dnmphy, 
 the second mate, from his position on the deck of the 
 A'/A , exclaimed excitedly to the captain, " Ily (ieorge, 
 sir, I bc-lie\e all the walrus in (ireeulaud are there, sir ! " 
 
 With thiir (.yes burning, their tusks gleaming, without 
 a pause or sign of fear, the savage animals, bent <»ii 
 revengi', made a determined attack on the long boat, 
 rearing from the water as the\ reaclu'd it in an attempt 
 to get their tu->ks o\xr tlu' side. 
 
 Had llu\ succeedid in thi> the entire partv would have 
 been dnouud, but each member fought (k^perately. 
 
i I 
 
 •"^mmm 
 
 I 
 
 342 
 
 /x .ih'cr/i SI'. IS. 
 
 \%- 
 
 % 
 
 \ 
 
 Rillis, liatt'luls and liarpuDiis \\v\\- used willi cUadlv' 
 ofR'i-l, a:i(l caili (luslau^lil \\a^ siu'iTSsfiillN ixiKlkd, hul 
 it was iiol iiulil a lai^x- nmiil)i.r liad \)vv\\ slain that iIk' 
 fiHiii\- ac'kiKiw U(l;4i(l (k'Iral aud sulKiily rcliu'd tVuni 
 tlu- (. I lutr >t. Kaxiii;^- \\\v xictoiioiis partv to low llu- two 
 (K'ad animals \.\\v\ had lirsl >liol in triumph to tlu- >hip, 
 wlurr it \\a> rslim iltd tlKil tin.- lua\icr ol" tlu- two 
 \vc'iu;lK(l niort- than half a ton. 
 
 This i.'\ciliu^- adwntuiv only wdKllc-d iIil- appc'titc- of 
 all hands tor motr ; all of llu- axailahU' hoals wiav 
 fdk'd wila ankul sportsnuai, and llif whok- da\' km^;' 
 thr cha^e was krpt up. >kui\- niorr wiit.' slau^htcrfd 
 and niarh a do/.m ol' iIk- hn^r animals sc-curcd, and 
 it is <piilr ])ossil)k' that llu- A'/A' would \ it \k- in Smith 
 vSonnd, and llu' mi. inln-is of ihc IVarN' Rclit-f Ivxpnli- 
 lion hnulinL; walrus, had not Captain I'ikc towards cxcii- 
 in^ insisted that it was liuK' lo ht^in ihc ri'turu xoya^r 
 to McCormick liav . 
 
 At I lartsltaK- Hay a >top wa.s made and a numhrr of 
 IJR- part\ wcul ashort' to \isit the sctlkaiK'nt ot" llu' l'".lah 
 ]>kimos. Tlu- spot wa> fouud rvadily (.nou^h. the 
 ahundaul wrdnrr on tlif shore, which characterizes all 
 ]vd-;inio selllenieuls, alfordini;- a ^;;re indication of its 
 location. 'iMie place was found to be desi rted, as was 
 expected tVoni inforniatiou i^ixeu 1)\' !)r. C'.'ok, and it 
 e\identl\' had keen abandoned for a jon^- time, for tiie 
 ri\e stone igloos w(.'re, with one exception, in ruins, and 
 the pilesof bones and birdskiusand other refuse in iVont 
 of them o\er<'rown with <'rass. 
 
'I III-: rH.iKY RHLiEi' i.xi'i.niTioii. ,^,^ 
 
 Tlir I'Uali \ ilhi.m' is sii])])()-.(.'il to li;i\i' hiiii llu' most 
 iKHllurly st'llIriiK'iil III" liiiiiiaii l),iii;^s mii llic hu-i' of tlu- 
 L;lo!)f. It \v.i> iiiadr rmious l)\ Kuk'. IIayt>ati(l otlici 
 Arclii- iia\i,L;alors, ami llu- iiaiiir of llus*.' Ivskiiiio.s is 
 faiiiiliar lo llu' ivadcr of vscxy hook of polar achiiiliiir. 
 Tin.' oiR' ij^loo not (k'Sti()\ fd was lariat.', liaiidsoiii'.', sid)- 
 slaulialh' coiislnirtrd, and c-oiitaiiud two looiiis. It 
 
 
 
 lAlClIIM. All- WITH Ml'. 
 
 was so siijU'iior to all llir otlurs in i.\i.i\ rrspn-l that 
 wr fanc-ird it nii^lit lia\f hem tlu' oiir (n-rtipird oii dif- 
 kvcat occasions h\ Hoctois Kan.' and IIa\is. Il> mi- 
 pcrioritx- was till nion inarktil from the fact that the 
 rnins of ilu' itinainin;.; lints >liowcd that all had hctn of 
 more than nsnal excellence of constrnction . I",\(r\- 
 
.■^44 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 'iL 
 
 '1,1 
 
 I 
 
 sloiu- had hfcii carffnlh laid and llu- loof s<»Iidl\ hiiilt. 
 Of tlu- piopU- who once lived thtir, so far as known, 
 hilt oni- faiuiK' \il exists, and that oni- forms part of 
 the sitlknunt now ,i;ronped ahont Ktd Clitl Ilonse. 
 It is said that the settlcMnent was abandoned h\ its ])eo- 
 ])le hecanse <»f \\\\!^\ winds and continnons cold. \\\\\, 
 on this heautifnl snnny ni<fht, with scarceh' a breath to 
 cool the healed atmosphere, and with the j^^rass so thick 
 and hijfh that it reached to the knees, such a reason 
 seemed lanj^hable. 
 
 Anjonji^ the rnins and minj^led with the rubbish and 
 the remains of many former Ivskimo feasts were found 
 a larjj^e number of implements of the chase, trinkets, 
 fraj^ments of household utensils, and, stranj^est of all, 
 a domino. 
 
 .About lwent\- miles below the ICtah settlement is Sonn- 
 taj^ Ha\-, so named from a well known .\rctic explorer 
 who was with IIa\es On its shores is the abandoned 
 settKuuut of the Soofalik Ivskimos, about which little 
 has bien written, but which, jnd»^inj^ from the ijj^loos 
 remainiuj^f and the unusually jj^reat number of j^Maves, 
 must have been a very larj^e and flourishing'^ community. 
 The AV/c reached there on the morninj^ of July 2S. 
 
 rictures(|Ue as was the site of the ICtah settlement, it 
 is e\en snrpasse<l in this respect b\' that of the vSoofalik.s. 
 The j^aound was covered with luxuriant <j^reen. ( )ver 
 the sea the purple hills towered more than 2000 feet in 
 bold cliffs and ja<^fmed ])eaks. Throu.nh one of the 
 hills behind the settlement a larsjt' stream has cut a 
 
THE nUARY REI.il:!' EXrhinri'ION 
 
 .VI 5 
 
 path Iialf-was lo llii' hotldiii and tiiiiihlts llu- list of 
 till' (list. mot.' to till' (K'l'aii in a sirii's of hroilinj^ ia])i(ls and 
 cataracts, wlmsi' mar (.-oiild hr heard a loni; di>tanir 
 a\va\. 
 
 Several hours were spent roamin<; ainoiii;^ the rninsof 
 this old Soofalik settlement, hill nothini,^ of iinportaiiee 
 was discovered. The ])art\ then prepared to >piiid the 
 ni^ht on a handsoiiu' j^lacier, which empties into llu- water 
 at the head of Sonntajj; Hay. Sailors' haj^s were packed 
 with hlankets and other articles, a tol)o,;.^,<4an loaded with 
 them, and a start made. This j^lacier seemed to ha\e spe- 
 cial advantay;cs for the proposed jonnie\ 1)\ it^\er^ j^eiitle 
 slope, probably not e.\cecdin>.; more than from three to 
 five deforces, and by its nmisiial compactness, its crev- 
 asses appcnrin<^ merely ;is closed up slits. The baj^s 
 and other traps were transported without difficnltx 
 <»\er one of the lateral moraines and placed on the lo- 
 bo<;}^an immediately above the edjjje of the ice wall, 
 which rises to the heij^ht of from ei]L,dit\' to too feet 
 above the sea level. The trij) was be<,nin at 1 1.45 p. m., 
 and was pushed to the summit without an\- halts e.\cept 
 momentary ones, and the top reached in exactly five 
 hours. 
 
 I'or the first two or three miles the surface of the 
 glacier was (luite even, and composed sometimes of ice 
 and .sometimes of crisp fro/en snow, which the earl\- 
 morniiifj^ sun had not yet converted into slush. At 
 a hciijht of i^od feet hiinimock\- undulations broke 
 the surface into areas difficult to traverse. These 
 
IMAGE EVALUATION 
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 (716) 872-4503 
 
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 346 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 fin- 
 
 succeeded one another to tlie suinniit and the toboggan 
 was pushed forward only with great exertion, owing to 
 the steep slope oi' the huniniocks and tlie slipper}- ice of 
 the frozen surface. A short distance from the apex of 
 the glacier deep cre\-asses began to appear, but in most 
 cases they were easily crossed by using the toboggan as 
 a bridge. The source of the glacier was reached at an 
 elevation of 2055 feet, where it terminated in a most 
 beautiful cirque or neve basin, from whence the huge ice 
 mass discharges. At this itoint began the interminable 
 ice-cap lolliu'.; liigher and higher away into the interior. 
 
 The descent, while in a measure easier through the 
 relief of tl;. strain, was yet arduous in many ways. This 
 was made particularly so through the tendency of the 
 toboggan to rush, and the necessit\' consequently of hold- 
 ing it in tow from the rear by means of guide lines. It 
 required four hours to reach the boat, and the part\-, 
 thou--h most of them were utterly worn out, were \et 
 proud of the feat, for they had demonstrated b\- this 
 ascent the important fact that the inland ice of the north 
 can be reached by the backs of the glaciers by man car- 
 rying the impedimenta of travel ; the toboggan and load 
 used in the experiment weighing, approximately, 200 
 pounds. 
 
 vSoou after the return of the part}', the k'/'/c resumed 
 lier voNage southward and early the same afternoon 
 arrixed at Robertson Hay, a remarkabh' handsome bod>- 
 of water immediately adjoining McCormick IJay, and 
 running parallel with it. Here also were several 
 
 \ 
 
 MM 
 
 ! 
 
THE PEARY RELIEF LXPEDITION. 347 
 
 settlements, calK-d respectively Igloo Duhoiney. Kukaii, 
 Deasunna and Ikenoniey. To the first named place the 
 professor, IMr. Meehan and Mr. Mnrphy, the first mate, 
 made a visit. They fonnd six luits, all but two of which, 
 however, Vv'cre in rnins. On entering one of these the 
 three were amazed to find traces of recent occupation. 
 Furs were piled high upon the stone jilatform ni tlie 
 rear. The rack for wet " cammiks " and other articles 
 hung from the roof; a drinking cup and blubber pan 
 and .some other utensils were in their proper places. 
 Outside, in the innnediate vicinity, evidences of recent 
 occupation were even more apparent in numerous caches 
 of .seal, and in several drying lionses of stone filled with 
 the bodies of little auks. 
 
 While the\- were standing about wondering, for the 
 place was su]:»i)osed to l)e deserted, lo and l)ehold ! a 
 " mickey," or Kskimodog, showed himself with vocifer- 
 ous barking over a little hill not faraway hnniediately 
 behind him trudged an ancient huskie, attired in the 
 picturescpie but filthy garments of his race, with his 
 "cunna" (woman or scpiaw) and three pickaninnies 
 bringing up the rear. With unembarrassed mien and 
 smiling countenance this now most northern .settler on the 
 face of the globe approached the three white men, uttering 
 the familiar '' Ki-nio " in a sing-song and stuttering 
 voice. Indeed, tlie man stuttered at sueli a rate that 
 Daniel, who met him subsecpientlv, remarked: -'Me 
 no savvey, huskie; speakem too iuul-Ii lc!i, tcii, tch ; 
 his cuuna pleut\- speakem good, me sa\\e\-. " 
 
^•••■lili 
 
 348 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 tr 
 
 The professor took the family 011 board the vessel and 
 gave them wood, iron and other usefnl articles. Words 
 cannot express the delight with which these ])oor, 
 isolated bcinj^s received the <>;ifts. They howled, they 
 danced and they san.i^, and qnotinjif Daniel a^ain, " They 
 mncli cry," and their noses bled profusely from the 
 excitement. Meanwhile Mr. Meehan had been left on 
 shore to make further exploration of the place. From 
 many signs it is evident that Igloo Duhomey is one of 
 the most ancient of the settlements the party had visited. 
 One of the most marked proofs of this was the great 
 number of graves on the brow of a little hill a short dis- 
 tance away. !Most of these graves had fallen in and the 
 bones of the dead had been resolved into dust. In 
 noting these graves the difference between the method 
 of disposing of the dead in North Greenland and that 
 pursued by the Eskimos of the South was made strikingly 
 apparent. In North Greenland when a native dies two 
 walls of stone are built, running parallel and about two 
 feet and a half apart and two feet high, and between 
 them a thick layer of sand is placed, on which the body, 
 wrapped in furs, is deposited. Over this vault, if it may 
 be so called, is laid a large flat stone and both ends are 
 firmly sealed by rolling large boulders against them ; 
 over all, stones are heaped until quite a large mound is 
 made, to secure the body against the predatory visits of 
 any animal likely to come near the .spot. 
 
 When at length the Eskimos had received their gifts, 
 been fed and landed and all hands were once more on 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
THE PEAR } ' RELIEF EXPEDITION. 349 
 
 board, the Kite steamed away and two hours later was 
 anchored in front of Red CHfF House, where it was 
 learned that in consequence of the jioor physical health 
 of Matthew Henson, the colored servant, Mrs. Pearv had 
 thought best to break camp at the head of McCormick 
 Bay and return to the winter quarters. 
 
, , 
 
 UiMiMia 
 
 I II 
 
 %l 
 
 CHAPTRR X. 
 
 Campinc, ox Rohkrtson IVw.— Till', .\\(,i;k()k.— Tuk l-'fciTivR 
 
 WlFlC AND DAIT.HTI.U. — A I'oSSII, ( ". I.ACII'.K. 
 
 THE recollection of the walrus liuutiiij^- iu vSmitli 
 vSoinid was so pleasant, that the (la\- after the re- 
 turn of the A'//(' to McCorniick I5ay leave was obtained 
 by the f;reater number of the i)arty to j^o on a three days' 
 hunt for reindeer and Arctic hares. As the distance was 
 nearly fifteen miles the A'/'/r took the party to the site 
 of the proposed camp and left them, they proposinj^- to 
 row back to McCormick IJay at the expiration of their 
 leave. The party comprised Messrs. I>r\ant, Entrikin, 
 Mills, ]\Ieehan and Daniel, the interjireter, and these 
 pitched their tent on a <^rassy field near the beach, be- 
 .side a clear cold stream of water. IJehind them was a 
 lari^e valley, once occupied by a hu.^e glacier, but which 
 thron<;h climatic chan<i^es had been driven back little by 
 little, until nownothinj^ remained of it but a small body 
 of ice extendiu<^ not more than a quarter of a mile from 
 the inland ice-cap. The various periods of the retreat 
 of the glacier were plainly marked b\- huj^e terminal 
 moraines extending clear across the valle\-. 
 
 To the east of the camp beyond the stream rose a 
 loftv mountain peak, the greater part of which was 
 covered by a thick growth of vivid green moss, with 
 
THE PEARY RELIEE EXPEniTION. 
 
 ,^51 
 
 intervals of lar>^c beds of loose stones. These beds of 
 stones are a favorite resort for the little auk, a tooth- 
 some bird about the size of a robin, which con- 
 grcj^ate on all the ba\s, fiords and mountain sides of 
 (rreenlaud by the htnulreds of -inlHon. Two of the 
 party therefore took their ,i;uns and essa\ed to clamber 
 up the steep slope of the mountain over the j^reen moss 
 to shoot a number for supper. 
 
 They had climi>ed perhaps five orsi.v hundred feet up, 
 when the moss suddenly o;ave way beneath their feet, and 
 they slid downward for some distance with dizzying 
 ra])idity. When at length they could stop themselves 
 they found that beneath the luxuriant green was a solid 
 mass of hard colorless ice, and further search revealed 
 the fact that there was ice everywhere beneath this 
 cryj^togamous growth — in short, they had come upon 
 a natural icehouse, known among geologists as a fossil 
 glacier. This apparently cnricjus freak of nature is the 
 result of tlie most natural and simple causes imaginable. 
 Thousands 01 >ears ago, perhaps, when the climate of 
 Greenland was much colder, this mountain was covered 
 by a vast ice sheet of great depth. lyittle 1)\- little the 
 climate changed and became warmer, and mosses, which 
 before could oul\- grow on its edges in the more i)r(j- 
 tected nooks, pushed gradually forward o\-er the chilly 
 ice until the>' completely coxx'red the mass. 
 
 These Greenland mosses are (juite different from the 
 poor things we in our climate knowl)\- that name. The 
 growth covering this ice-mountain was in places three 
 
 •it 
 
" ^•'•^'^.•3'rti^U^'rmmt^k-xmtui^ 
 
 ■**«****•>*»*•*«** 
 
 352 
 
 nv .lA'cr/c s/-:.LS. 
 
 llM, 
 
 \ 
 
 or tour led in thickness, and, hut for an accident, the 
 partv nii<j;-ht lia\e rolled in it, trnd^ed over it and camped 
 on it for weeks withont dreaniini:,^ what was nnderneath. 
 
 In the three days' hnnlin_i,^ trip on the shores of Robert- 
 son i!a\- the party fonnd a hnskie there named Kionptdo, 
 an "an*;ekok'' or medicine man from Red CHIT Ilonse. 
 li\in,n in the hnt with Kinna, the settler of I^loo Dnho- 
 ine\-. Mis purpose at Robertson Day was to find liis wife 
 aii:l stepdan<4hter, who had rnn awa\' from him more 
 than a week l)efore, and here he wascalmh- waitin_t>- nntil 
 they shonld turn np, as he expected they wonld, at Ii>loo 
 Dnhoiuey. The Eskimo " an<i^ek()k " is a peculiar per- 
 sonajj^e. Any man or woman who can sin<2;- may la\' 
 claim to the title, and if he or she has a sufficient 
 store of animal majj^netism, can wield a powerful 
 influence over the tribe with which he or she resides. 
 
 Kioojiedo was a character. Lar<;er than most of the 
 other huskies about him, he was at the same time of 
 pleasin<>; aj)pearauce and kept himself a trifle cleaner. 
 His disposition, however, while his face wore a continu- 
 ous smile, was said to be anythinj; but pleasant, and he 
 was feared and hated. Notwithstanding, what he said or 
 coinmandcd had great weight. The wife who had run 
 awa\' from him was his third spouse and it was whispered 
 that he had killed the two previous ones in fits of anger, 
 and the one who ran away, before she did so, confided to 
 one of her sex that she feared a similar fate it she 
 remained. While we were in camp at Igloo Duhoniey 
 she and her daughter did not put in an appearance, but 
 
I i 
 
 (!?: 
 
 rilE PEARY RELIEF EXPEDITION. 
 
 >5,i 
 
 llu'\- <li(l as wc licard sul)sc'(iuc'iUl\-, nioiv than a wti'k 
 later, to fmd their lmsl)aii(l and st(.'])ratlii'r(iuic'tl\ sitting 
 Ijfforc Kiuna's i^loo. The joiiriK y of tlic woman and her 
 daii^-htcr from tlie Red Cliff House to nuhomeN- had 
 been one of almost unparalleled privation. When the\- 
 departed lhe\- took with them no food. \\\ sharp walk- 
 in^- thev reached the head of MeCormiek Hay in a few- 
 hours : here thev made the aseent of the plateau al)o\i' 
 the l)a\-, where the\- (gathered and ate a few huckleberries. 
 This was all the food they had for more than tenda>sand 
 the ;^reater portion of that period was spent in wander- 
 in;.; over the edii^e of the ice-cap, and in crossinj; three 
 wide and dan.^erous jj^laciers. When they arrived at the 
 settlement on Robertson P>ay the\- were nearl\- dead, 
 and their appearance, it is said, was .so i)itiful that even 
 the cruel heart of Kioopedo was moved and he promised 
 to treat his wife more kindly in the future. 
 
 In the many expeditions of the party the l^skimos 
 were found most useful ; <(ood-natured, willin_i( to work 
 and ever ready to accompany them and <.,nve all the 
 assistance in their power. In the hunt they were found 
 to be invaluable, their e.\:traordinar\' keenness of vision 
 enablinji^ them to see deer and other animals lonj^ before 
 the untrained eyes of the white people could do so. 
 Kiuna, who assisted in our lunit at Ijl^Ioo Duhomey, 
 was considered only an indiflerent artificer and, until 
 recently, a poor hunter, but since then he has come to 
 be looked upon with nnich respect. His new reputation 
 for prowess dates from last winter, when, just before a 
 
354 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 if 
 
 \K 
 
 terrific blix./.ard, he took Iiis faiiiiK- from one l)a\- to the 
 other oil a limit, and nothing was heard of him until 
 spiiiij;-, wlien he turned up, witli a record of lia\iu,c; 
 killed six walrus single-handed. 
 
 His safe return was the more wonderful to the super- 
 stitious natives, since diiriuj;- the hliz/.ard sluM"tl\' after 
 
 -'^'i'^i^C^&^-^ms, 
 
 »<p« 
 
 10^ 
 
 STAI.KINC. I'OK WAI.KIS. 
 
 his dcixarturc, they had heard the " Korkoya " howl. 
 The " Korkoya " is a powerful and malevolent spirit 
 who is believed b\' the huskies to inhabit the extreme 
 northern waters and the inland ice. It is his peculiarit\- 
 to howl after a meal. lie is particularly fond of a morsel 
 of human flesh, next to which he loves a ship or a kajak 
 as an article of diet, and his howliuL^ on the occasion 
 
THE rEARY RILIEI' EXEE.ni I ION. 
 
 355 
 
 refcnvd lo, a])i)(.-;uv(l an iiifailibk- iiidicatiou I'aal Kiuiia 
 liail iiK'l with a linrri'hlc dralh and had hiTii (U'xoinvd 
 1)\- the iR'nd of the ic'.' ca]). llis iiu-rrdihlf c-.c-a]>r iVoin the 
 conibiiivd U'lTors (if the l)Ii/./.ard, the- icr-L-ap and its iiioii- 
 stroas s])irit, the proof of his prowess in the shiiii 
 walrnsL'S, and liis sin.i^^in^ ([ualities, raised him at once 
 t(> lii*;h di<^nity and ;;avc him the name of beinj;' an 
 anjj^ekok. 
 
 The (la\- sneceedin.i;- tlie retnrn of the huntinj^^ party, 
 wliich was on the ni,i;ht of An,i;nst 2, the Kite, with 
 Mrs. Pearv on 1)()ar(l, was taken to the liead of MeCor- 
 mick Bay to await the retnrn of Lient. Peary, which 
 was now expected at any moment. 
 
'il>> 
 
 iji 
 
 CIIArTI'.R XI. 
 Tin; Ki,i.ii;i' l'.\i'i;i>ii'r(i\ M\ki;s a K i ruNNdissAMi: oi riii. In- 
 
 I.A.Nh kl'; AM) .AIlJTS I.IUT. I'l.AKN AMi Ml<. A.sTUI I'. 
 
 Ox llic aflcniooii (if .\u,i;ust 5, I'rolVssor Ikilpriu 
 <lir(.(.'li.(l (.NLiy iiKiiil)(.'r dI" Iiis parly Iti prcpwn.' lor .1 
 rt'coniioissaiKc of till' inland ice. .\ iiuinl)(.'r ol" polus \\■^.■r(-• 
 l)r(.•l)ar(.■(l for llic purpose of planliii.L;- lliiiii for tl'emiid- 
 aiiec of Lieiil. IVary and Mr. .Xslruj) to MrCorniick lla\ . 
 'iMie sctlin,!.;' of tlic'Se poks was considtred ad\isal)lc 1)l- 
 causL', slioiihl tlie two tra\'ekis in their rrlnrninj4 iiiareh 
 (k'\ dale in the slightest (k'l^ree to llie sotilhward or the 
 northward, tkey wouhl certainly land al the head of 
 Roberlsou ])ay or In!.;leiRdd (iulf. The eoniiii,;; ont 
 from the inland ice at either of lliese points would he nn- 
 fortunate, as from them to the Red Cliff House the way 
 is not only nian\' miles, hut also rxcessixely difficult. 
 
 The work of ^ettini;- reach' for the reconnoissance was 
 soon done, and the parly started. Landiui; on the 
 south side of the bay, near its her.d, they clambered uj) 
 the steep rocky beach to the entrance of a lar^e \alley 
 which extends nearly to In.^lefield ( iidf. I lere the\- came 
 upon the remains of Camp Tuctu, where the companions 
 of Lieut. Tear)- had made their heackiuarters earh' in 
 the season when preparing to take the supplies to the 
 summit of tlie ice-caj) for the ^reat inland jourue)-. 
 
 ■ I i 
 
rill: I'h'.ARY ia:i.ii:h /■.\i'i:n/noN. 
 
 ,VS7 
 
 Oil llu- i-asl si(K- of llir \';ilU'\- the |);irt\ fMiuKl ;i .^oli;c" 
 vxU'udiiii; tVoiii its holtmii to .i (Uip (Kprc^iuu alioiU iwo- 
 lliirds till' \va\ up llic iiiDiiiitaiii wliicli fdriiud ils ndiih 
 si<K'. \'\) this i^oi^L', wliic'Ii was also '';i' palli lakm l)y 
 IJc'il. IV'ar\' and Mr. Aslnii) wlun lliry mI (nit <»n 
 lluir daring (.'xploralioii, llir iilir! (.Nprdiliim i liinl>i.'d 
 and sluuibk'd. 'lMin)iiL;li il laii a >liHaiii nf rlcMV rold 
 waliT wliiidi l)(iiiii(U(l fiDiii niek In ruck dh its way to 
 tlir sua. Rc'acliiiii; llir depri'ssioii in llir nitnuilain tliry 
 found it to he a dcrp and picturcsiiuc dKy wliic li liad 
 hiTU duL; out of llir ^rcat tahk-land i); tlir work of a 
 lon^ extinct and nii,L;lit\- ,L;kicii Iv '(kiux- oi ilS' 
 
 treUK-ndoiis work appeared on evcr\' hand — lrai.;e 
 houldrrs with roun(kd (.•dj^vs, and kirve, ; at rocks (kcply 
 scarrc '. and riwu. To llic \cry cd.L;c of this \alk\ tlic 
 ice-cap canic, conipk'tcl\' huryin^ the land cxcciil four 
 " lunialaks " which rose .^rini and >tnrd\ ahow its 
 reach. To the side of one of thc'se " nunatak> " tlie 
 part\' ascenck'd, and presentU found lhenisel\i> on tlie 
 
 niland ice. 
 
 The rolliuij white hiiidsca])e, exteiidiu'' ii 
 
 e\'er\' (Hrectioii in (h'eadfnl niouoloiiy, fiilh' justifies the 
 terror it ins])ires in the minds of the Iv->kiinos, 
 
 I'or a mik' or two the journey was tliroui;]! ne\e or 
 _i;ranukir ice, into whicli at c\er\- step the feil sank 
 ank!c-decp. When at leuglli the ice-cap j)roper was 
 reached traveling; was, if anythin.i^', worse, for ihnni.^h 
 the action of the warm sun ils co\erin^ of snow was 
 scarcelv firm enough to l)ear tlie wei,L;lit of a man. As 
 b\' some owrsisjhl snow-shoes had 1)een left !)e]iiild, 
 
 M 1 < 
 
• ^ ■:■' •''''•iA-r'"!'i'''mK^mmmtltllflglt 
 
 II-' 
 
 \ 
 
 m 
 
 358 
 
 /JV ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 proj^ress was very slow and lal)()rioiis ; but, altliont^li 
 with every step tlie iiieinl;ers of the expedition sank 
 knee, and often waist, deep, by nine o'clock that niiL^dit 
 they had jK'netratcd inland several miles and to an 
 elevation of 331^0 feet above the sea. At the i)oint ncAV 
 
 \ 1 ' 
 
 lii 
 
 PI.AXTINr, A CT'inn POST ox THIC ICK-CAP. 
 
 reached the first of the poles was planted, and to it was 
 nailed a board bearing an index and the inscription : 
 
 «/)• 'TO Mccormick riAV. 
 
 KITI-; IN I'OKT. AlCrST ,s" 
 
 The work of setting this pole completed, it was 
 determined to place another on an eminence abont two 
 miles bevond. 
 
THE PEARY RELIEF EXPEDITION. 
 
 359 
 
 The toilsome inarcli towards this point was scarcely 
 beo^un when far away in the distance a small dark sjieck 
 appeared almost in line of vision with the very site for 
 which the relief party was makins;-. What conld it be? 
 Could it be a bear? Xo, this continental \vaste of ice is 
 shunned V)y all forms of livinjj^ matter and neither native 
 man or brute will venture upon it — and yet the thing 
 had life — it moved — "(xreat Heaven! it is waviuj^ 
 somethin.u;- in the air ! " 
 
 It was a man, no d(jubt of that now — and if so, it 
 must be a white man. Xo Eskimo was ever known 
 who would not refuse absolutely to penetrate any distance 
 into the ice-cap. Who then could it be other than the 
 man we were seekinJ^ ? Three objects were now plaiidy 
 seen. It nuist be — it could be no other than Lieut. 
 Peary, ]\Ir. Astrup and their sledj^e with its team of doj;;s. 
 
 When the almost incredible truth flashed on their 
 minds, the whole party broke out into wild cheers, and 
 when, a moment later, the report of a rifle shot came 
 to them faintly across the ice, they could scarcely con- 
 tain themselves for joy. Then one of the objects 
 detached itself from the others and started ahead, 
 disappearin<i^ behind a low ridj^e which intervened, to 
 reappear shortly on the suuunit revealed as Lieut. Pear\-. 
 The tall form of the returniu,i^ explorer, clad in heavy 
 fur garments, bareheaded, walking with a free stride 
 on his snow shoes, carr\iug a wind gauge in one h;ind 
 and a carbine in the other, ])aused for a moment on 
 the crest of the hillock, and stood there refracted to 
 
' ' ''''^''''^^""'OTMIiHIIIIHI 
 
 'fmmmmmmmmsmm 
 
 360 
 
 /N ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 ii' 
 
 ( , 
 
 \ 
 
 a <;i<;antic stature darkly silhouetted a_^-ainst the clear 
 sky. Lieut. Teary was followed closely bv Astrup 
 dnviu<;- five yelpiui^ I^^skinio dof^s attached to a heavil\' 
 laden sled<j;^e. It was an a\ve-ins])irin<^- si,i;ht, these two 
 men coming out of the great mysterious North, o\er 
 that frozen terror, whose snows had never been trodden 
 by liiunan foot, alive from that fearful solitude on whose 
 broad expanse life had never before drawn breath. 
 
 Such was the feeling inspired that the cheering died 
 away, and the silence which followed was oppressive, 
 until Lieut. Peary, coming close, himself broke the 
 spell by exclaiming, "Well, well, this is Professor Heil- 
 ])rin. I am glad yours is the first hand I take. ,So 
 this is the relief part\'. Well, gentlemen, nothing 
 could ha\-e given nie greater pleasure." Then after 
 shaking each heartily b\' the liand, he continued, "I 
 have traveled 1300 miles and made a record, and 
 neither of us has had an ache or pain since we left 
 the Red CHIT House." The appearance of the men fulh- 
 bore out his words, thc\" were evidently strong, healtlu' 
 and not the least trawl-worn. 
 
 A uu)ment later, Mr. Astrup had come along, gliding 
 easily over the fro/en snow on his Norwegian skis. 
 Turning to ^Ir. .\strup, Lieut. Peary said : " Yes, we 
 are well and happy, and I am glad to sa\- that this 
 brax'e bt)y has behaved nobly and 1 could aKva\s rely 
 upon him." All shook Mr. Astrup by the hand, who 
 respoiuled with a nuulest smile to the praises of Lieut. 
 Pear\-, and in his broken haiglish assured each of 
 
■4 
 * 
 
 
 o 
 
 K 
 
 k: 
 o 
 
 H 
 
 M 
 
 n 
 
 4-. 
 
 
 {mv 
 
 %f'- ., 
 
 ■^ 
 
 m-^' 
 
 
I' II ■"■vinipiHiipi 
 
 mm 
 
 m. ' 
 
 \\< 
 
 
TUB PEARY REIJEF EXPIiniTION. 363 
 
 tlie parl\' as iIilv were introduced to him: " It t^ivcs 
 iiic nmcli ];k'asnre." 
 
 When the .^reetinj^s were over one of the parts- 
 asked Lieut. Peary whether he was liun,i;r\-, and ])ro- 
 duced a sandwich, !)nt that .gentleman smiled and said 
 he mi.ulit perliaps be al)le to offer the interlocutor and all 
 of the i)arty a larger meal than they could i)rovide in 
 return, and pullinn- a piece of pennnican from his sledge 
 he tendered it to tlieni. Although Lieut. Peary declined 
 the sandwich, Mr. Astrnp was n.ore acconnuodatiug, and 
 devoured it with manifest relish, declaring it to he the 
 best thing he had eaten for ninety days, far sui)erior to 
 pemmican or pea soup. 
 
 The two parties then made their way slowh- towards 
 McCorniick P>ay, Lieut. Peary keeping up an almost 
 contintious fire of questions as to what had occurred in 
 the outside world during his absence. I5y four o'clock 
 the edge of the ice-cap. was reached, and an hour later a 
 portion of the relief part\- were rowing Lieut. Peary and 
 Mr. Astrnp shipward. 
 
 Before they came fairh within hailing distance of the 
 Kile the enthusiasm of those escorting the returned ex- 
 plorers could be contained no longer. \\'ild shouts and 
 \ells broke from their throats. They cheered Lieut. 
 Pear\-, Mr. Astrnp, Mrs. Pear>- and the Pear\- l{\j)edi- 
 tion, and ever\thing they could think of. .\s the boat 
 approached nearer to the KiU\ the yells and shouts and 
 cheering grew wilder, and then Lieut. Peary hinrself 
 became e.xcited and standing in the stern of the boat he 
 
 I W 
 
 .'! ! 
 
 wmi 
 
 ii 
 
364 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 ♦ 
 
 
 cliHchai<fed liis carbine repeatedly; and even Mr. Astnip, 
 quiet and retirinj^- as he usually is, was carried away by 
 the _i;eneral feelin<4- of exhilaration and joined in the 
 hubbub. 
 
 l>y this time the racket in the boat had attracted at- 
 tention on the l\iU\ and Captain Pike, with the officers 
 and crew, rushed to the ship's side, and seein<:^ whom 
 the relief party were brinji^ing', be<^an a series of hurrahs 
 which lasted until the boat touched the ship's side, 
 when Lieut. Peary, clindjinjj;- ninibl)- to the deck, made 
 a bound to the companion-way and disappeared below 
 to assxire his an.xious wife of his safe return. 
 
 'i: 
 
CHAl'TlvR XII. 
 
 TlIlC I'KAKV I'AKTVS W.NTKK I.IKK. -I^AV, N,; ,x SToKKS.-TmK 
 
 Arctic Xicht.-I'kki'aratioxs i.'or thi; I.m.am. J(,ikn,.;v._ 
 'i'liic Start. 
 
 TMMIvDI.VTlvI.V after the A7/.. left McCnnick Day 
 ^ oil July 30, iScji, work was l)cnun on Red ClifT 
 House. iMn-timately a!] of tlie joists ami niucii of the 
 otlicr lumber had been cut on the way out, so that in a 
 very few days the roof was on, and I.ieut. IVary could 
 be removed under a cover to a couch ])repare(l f..r him 
 on a pile of boxes in one corner. Xoue to.) soon, how- 
 ever, for a terrific rain .storm shortly set in which ra-ed 
 without intermission for ten days, completely lloodhi<,r 
 the surrouiidin<,r o;round, and at one time even" threateir- 
 ino- the hou.se with destruction. .\t lenoth the little struc- 
 ture liaviii<r been completed and the storm over, Lieut. 
 Peary directed .Ale.s.srs. CAhson, VerhocfT, Astrup and 
 Dr. Cook to take the FnM^ one of the wliale boats, to 
 Xortlnunberland and Hakluyt Islands on a huntiii.<,r expe- 
 dition for game to be cached as a winter supply"! :\Ir. 
 Cib.son was also commissioned to visit the Xehelumie 
 settlement, and to induce one of the Kskimo hunters of 
 that tribe to come with him to McCormick Bay, it being 
 suppcsed that in the chase for walrus and .seal the aid of an 
 experienced native hunter would prove invaluable. The 
 
 nii 
 
 im 
 
 EMl 
 
I 
 
 ;/,r, 
 
 IX ARCTIC si: AS. 
 
 boat party returned, luiviiij^ succeeded in carryin<^ out 
 tlieir instructions to the letter. They l)rouo;ht with them 
 Equa, mentioned in a previous chai)tcr, one of the 
 brij^litest of the so-called "Arctic Hij^hlanders," who 
 brou<;ht with him his " cunna " and "an imp of dark- 
 ness," their little dauj^hter. Va[\u\ took up his abode 
 near Red Cliff House and proved an expert in the hunt 
 for the animals native to those shores, besides bein*;; a 
 cheerful, companionable fellow. The various hunting 
 l)arties before winter set in bajj^t^ed no less than thirty- 
 one reindeer, birds unnumbered, besides which a j^oodly 
 sujiply of walrus and seal meat was laid by. 
 
 On the return of the boat party, the l)arrels and boxes 
 contaiuin<;- the su])plies, the boxes with the lids broken 
 off and their open end turned inward, were piled around 
 the house, at a distance of about four feet from its outer 
 walls, leavinj^ a passa.i^eway, 1)\' means whereof access 
 coidd be gained to the provisions as they were required 
 without any one beinj;' obliged to face the severe winter 
 weather. This arrangement proved most convenient. 
 Around this barrier of food was piled an outer wall 
 of stone and ttirf and all made snug for the fierce blasts 
 of the Arctic night. 
 
 Several prelimiiiar\- explorations al.so were made with 
 a view to finding the most practicable route to and over 
 the ice-cap. On vSeptcmber 7, Mr. Astrup, Mr. Gibson 
 and Mr. \'erhoefr made an attack on the inland ice in 
 the direction toward the basin of the Humboldt Glacier. 
 They had scarcely begun the joiirne\-, however, when 
 
 II \ \ 
 
 u i\ , 
 
Tlin: PEARY RIILI El' EXPEDITION. 
 
 \x\\ 
 sts 
 
 Ivcr 
 
 Ison 
 
 in 
 
 her. 
 Ibeu 
 
 fierce storms and lieavy snows be<;an to ra.m', wliich 
 compelled them ttj retin-n to the Red ClifT Honsf, com- 
 pletely baffled. They j^ot back on vSeptemi)er i 2, and 
 on the twenty-second Mr. Astrup and Mr. (libson nuule 
 another attempt. This time, althoiij^h the)- eneonntered 
 no very bad weather, the condition of the snow on the 
 inland ice was fonnd snch that an\- .i^reat pro.^ress 
 was impossible. They retnrned to h..adi|narters sl-ncii 
 days after starting. In this jonrne\' the two managed, 
 notwithstanding the difficnlt\- of the traxeling, to pene- 
 trate the interior a distance of more than thirt\- miles. 
 
 Meanwdiile, Lient. Peary's broken leg had improved 
 so rapidly that on September 27 he was al)le to throw 
 away his crntches. On the retnrn of the part>- consist- 
 ing of Astrnp and (iibson from the last mentioned 
 jonrne\-, an exploration of Inglefield (inlf was begun, but 
 before this had advanced very far the party were driven 
 back by the young ice which began rapidly to form on 
 the water. By the first of October the bays and inlets 
 were all frozen solid, putting a stop to all further boat 
 life. 
 
 The days had been growing shorter and shorter till at 
 length the sun just showed above the horizon for a few 
 brief moments daily, and at last, by November S, the 
 long Arctic night had set in. From that tinieunlil I'Vb- 
 ruary 15 it lasted before day again dawned, and during 
 these three months it was as dark as midnij-ht. The 
 time passed rapidly, nevertheless. There were many 
 things to be done. Fur skins were made up into 
 
 24 
 
36.S 
 
 /x .lA'iV/i' s/:.is. 
 
 »^ 
 
 : 
 
 j^'aniU'Mls. and wood la>liioiK'd into ^k-d'^rs for Lii'ut. 
 ]\'ar\"s ioiinuA- in llir snrin''. 
 
 1 111' ronipanion^liip ot tlir nature aakd niaUTiallx in 
 r(.lii\in,L; ihv It'dinni ol llu- uinUr. Many from llir W- 
 lulnniir >rtlk-nKiil vdww U> Ri-d ClilT I lousr ; in lat'l, llu-ir 
 \-isils wrrf almost conslanl. 'l'lu\ would briu'' lliiir br- 
 
 i.n:ri'. I'i;\rv ami Nuirrii ckiiiixi. wn I'aui'n-. 
 lon^'ini^s witli ihcni on llK-ir sk'ds, and a nnnd)(.-r of fanii- 
 lirs remained and hnill. their winter igloos tlKav, so that 
 
 fth 
 
 Ion.' lon,;^- there was unite a \-iila,i;e ol them m 
 
 horhood 
 
 the neii^h- 
 d. Prominent anion^' these were the families of 
 Koloten.ui'ua, ( )nolka, and Koko. and the " an^ekok " 
 Kioopedo, whose matrimonial infelicities are elsewhere 
 narrated. All of them became staunch and useful friends. 
 
r. 
 
 y 
 
 r. 
 
 r 
 c 
 
'1!^ 
 
 '». 
 
 !1: 
 
 
 iv 
 
rm-: riiAKv reliiu' i:xrEnirioN. 
 
 37' 
 
 T1r\ soon (U'xt'Iopfd a fondiR'ss for thf wliitt' niair.s food, 
 especially folTci- and hisciiil, and were rej^iilarly treated 
 to thesi' (klieacies. The part)-, too, applied tliein- 
 seK'es (liliM-eiitlv to ieaniiii}; llu' iCskiiiios' laujj^iiaj^a', 
 and with siieli siieeess that hefore the winter was half 
 over most of theiii wi're ahle to converse fluently in that 
 tonj^ne. 
 
 Mr. \'erlioelT had stron.u; inclinations towards nieteor- 
 olo*;y, therefore the ol)ser\ation of all nieteorolojrical 
 pluiinnuiia wa> enlrnsted to him, and he became so 
 (kTi)l\- inl(.restrd in it that when Lirnt. l'ear\- went away 
 on lii> Jtiurney owr iIr- inland icr, Mr. WrhoelT showed 
 no an\i(.l\ to accoini)any him, but remained to continne 
 his fa\-(>rile pnrsnil. 
 
 I'or (.xercisr. while the ni^hl laslt-d, at least once e\-ery 
 t we'll t\- four ]i()ur>, all ilu' male members of the party 
 tra\ek(l out to a lar^r icrbc'r^ about a mile from 
 shorr in MrKilk' Hay and cut ice for driiikin<4' purjioses. 
 The\- also took short daih' walks in which Mrs. I'^ary 
 almost iiuariably took part. 
 
 I'\asts wvre nunurons. Thf birthdaxs of (.■ach member 
 of the ]xirt\' wa> llu' occa>ion of one, and on Xew Year's 
 day Mi>. I'earx' ;^a\ c .i ixcc-ptioii which was ,:^raced with 
 the ])rescnce of the whole ]'->kiino tribe, man, woman 
 and child. 
 
 .\ltliou,i;Ii the weather was \-ery cold, the thermometer 
 fallinii on one occasion a> low as fifty-three dej.;;ress below 
 zero, the entire p,.rty was (piite comfortable, and did not 
 burn within one ton of the se\en tons of coal which had 
 
1. 
 
 ft: 
 % " 
 
 t 
 
 i : 
 
 1: 
 
 :,7 J /N ARC TIL ' SEAS. 
 
 bfcn left Ijcliiiul lor tlirir use. Xc-illier did tliey con- 
 sinnc llicir allowancf of kerosene-. 
 
 On I'\l)rnary i.}. Lieut. Pearw Mr. Astrup and Dr. 
 Cook went to see the fust sunrise, wliicli would occur on 
 the fifteenth, the next da\-. TIkn" had scarcely reached 
 the sununit ot the l)luffs behind the Red ClifT Hou.se 
 wIk'U a furious teni])est of wind and rain aro.se on the 
 coast, and of rain and snow on the ice-cap. Iu)r forty- 
 ei_i;ht hours the storm ra^ed violentl)', and almost blew 
 down the house. The ])arty was Ijuried deep under the 
 drifts and was only with difficulty extricated. 
 
 Soon after was bc^un the work of carryinjL^ provi.sion.s 
 for the i^nvat jourue\- to the head of .McCormick P>ay. 
 Camp Tuctu was established as a depot, and every 
 day or two (piantities of food were hauled thither. In 
 the meantime, Lieut. Peary, with Mrs. Peary and a 
 nati\e dri\'er, went in a sledge drawn b\' thirteen doj^s to 
 luiujlefield (iiilf and resumed the exi)loration of that 
 body of water. It will jirobably be remembered tliat 
 Lieut. Pear\' had been disappointed in his expectation 
 of securing doL;s on the wa\' up on the l\il(\ at Disko 
 and ('ther points called at. He was more fortunate in 
 the North, and accpiired a maj^nificent ])ack of that only 
 half- tamed breed of bear-do,!L;s used by the natives both 
 in the hunt and as drans^ht animals. 
 
 I)uriu<^- this journey tlie part\- slept without shelter 
 except on one occasion, wlicn a heav\' stonn l)lew up 
 and Lieut, and Mrs. Peary were compelled to take 
 refuse in an ivrloo and house with the natives wlio 
 
^.^.tunuammmmtoiii 
 
 THE PEARY REJJEE EX/'E/UTIOX. 
 
 .->! ,1 
 
 owned it. In the cxploraliou of In^k-lRld Ciiilf, cowv- 
 iiig- a circuit of more than JS" niilc-s. many enormous 
 <,daciers were discoxered, wliieli Lieut. l\.ar\- nanieil 
 respectively Leid\\ Ileilprin, Trae\\ Ivminhar, .Mehille, 
 Meehan, Sun, llrinton, Ilart, IIul)l)ard, Sliar]i and 
 Dahlj^ren. IJesides these were discovered 1)\ liini 
 -Mounts I)al\-, Adams and I'utnam, and the ma,i;nificent 
 line of naturalK- sculptured dills, which lor their 
 fancied resemblance to the ruins of the ICi^xptian temple 
 on the Nile, he named Karnak. The two e\i)lorers 
 . .., - -.."'••.■'-. remained away a week. 
 
 InnnediateK on tlu-ir re- 
 turn the linal pre])arations 
 were made for the inland 
 ice journey. < )u the last 
 da\" of A])ril, the work t)f 
 transporting;" the pro\-isions 
 and other supplies from Camp Tuctu to the ice-cap was 
 bej^'un, en,^a,^'in,i;' all of the male mend)ers of the ])art\ , 
 and all the nude Ivskimos of the settlement lendin,i4 a 
 hand. Little by little the\- were taken o\-er the >teep 
 and broken ascent which inter\-ened between the camp 
 and the edi^e of the ice, the nature of the L^round 
 necessitating^' the toilful carryin.^;' of the whole outht .)U 
 their backs. 
 
 .\t last, three (bus later, on Ma\' _^, iiSij^, came the 
 time to start. It was ei^ht o'clock in the morniuL; when 
 Hensou was sent to the ice-loot with the lar^e doi^-sled. 
 The eiu'lit da\s' rest whicli the animals had enio\ed 
 
 '■3I<flP*»s, 
 
374 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 \\% 
 
 \ t 
 
 since tlie relurii from the exploration aronnd Inj^defield 
 (inlf had pnt them in hi<;h si)irit.--, and it was all that 
 Ilenson could do, experienced whip as he had become, 
 t<i k(.(.-]) in order the fi^htin^; and snarlinj^ pack (jf 
 seuii-wolves. Lieut. l'ear\' followed in the track 
 of the sled, acconi])anied for .some distance I)\ Mrs. 
 lVar>. 
 
 ( Ml their wa\- the\' met \'erhoeff, who shook hands 
 heartih, and hade !:;ood-l)\' with man\' i^ood wi>lK-s for a 
 successful return and the fulfdnient nf the hrii^htest hopes 
 entertained (if the outcome of the journey. ( )n looking- 
 ar< 111 ud, Imwewr, fir the uali\es in order to ])id iIkmu lare- 
 wt-'ll, Udl a si^n nf them was tn he >eeu. All had ilis- 
 a])pi'ared within llieir huts. To tlu-ir >u])erstitious mimK 
 iIk' white chieflain was rushim;' to certain destruction. 
 Ilr was sureh" .i^oin^' to W- de\-ourc(l t)\- the horrid S]>irit 
 of ihe hw the awful Korko\a, and th.ev were hiding; in 
 oi'der that lhe\- and their kindred mii^ht not he included 
 in the fate certain to owrtake all who partici])at(.-d in 
 the sacrilcL^'e of iuwadiu^- his forbidden domain. 
 
 The crack of Ileuson's whip wa> heard in the distance, 
 and then as In- disappeared be\ond ,i -mall rock\- emin- 
 ence all was silence. Lieut. IV-arx and his wile were 
 alone; the moment for the p.uliuL;. which mi^^ht l)e for- 
 ever, had couiL'. 
 
 Looking; b.ick, Lieul. I'eary saw once more thv 
 nniflled fur-clad fii^uri' witli ihe fiithfnl Xewfoundland,, 
 " I'rank," besiile her — then .i turn in the shore shut 
 out the >i''ht ; the inl.iud iourne\- had bc'un. 
 
 1 
 
i 
 
 THE PEARY RELIEF EXPEDITION. 
 
 .1, n 
 
 At tlirec o'clock on the- followiiiiL,' nioniiiii; Licnl. 
 Peary, carrxiii,::'- the li,L;lil iiiland-icc-sk-d, and Hcii>()n, 
 with the do,L,^-^ and the lari^e >led, arrixed at the starting; 
 point, after a weary elinil) (i\er the rnj^ined and sl<in\- 
 j^round (jf the .^ors^e at the liead of MeCi)rniiek \\a\ . 
 Here the\' fonnd Astru]), (iibson and I )r. Cnok fist 
 asleep in their bai^s. After a sliort rest, the sk-di^es 
 and numerous baggage ot tlie exploring ])art\ wrre 
 
 
 
 r^^ — \ ^ 
 
 ii'-- 
 
 ^pTl 
 
 
 Sp ''! di^'^^' 
 
 
 JL 
 
 i^^^ 
 
 
 ♦ 
 
 / 
 
 . Aw^-i^'j^ ' il 
 
 ^^y% 
 
 
 '' 'z.,^U^^ 
 
 *,«Bfflr- g^^ w ^^v 
 
 1 ./~ 
 
 
 
 1 «'^ . 
 
 
 m 
 
 •-^iT-'* 
 
 "^^ 
 
 INTl.RIiiK 111 AN ir.I.dd. 
 
 gotten over tlu- (.-dge of tin- inland ice: the work in- 
 voK-ini; the nin^t. -irenuou'- etfort- on the ]iart dI" tlu- 
 men and the dn^- cnuibined. The >k\' presaged a 
 storm. This, howtwr. \\•a-^ l.iker. Ia tlu- k-ader of tlu- 
 ])art\' as a ^ond iinun. Twiee l^-fore, wlu-n lu- li.ui 
 made- sueee-sfnl ineur^ion^ on tlu- iet- tiehl, his M-ttin;^ 
 out had bt-c-u aeeonUKinied b\ threatening wx-ather, 
 seemingh' tlu- ])romis(.' of ,i jKirtienlarly hanl linii, . ( ):•. 
 each oeeasion. ho\v<.-\ rr, tlu iiro^no>tieation pro\ x-d fa!>'j. 
 
376 
 
 IN ARC7/C SHAS. 
 
 )V. 
 
 The final pivpai'ilioiis, llu' parkin^;- of tliu skd^t-s, 
 was the w'tii'k of no Irss llian two (la\ s ; l)nt at kn.^th 
 all was ready, and llic do.^s, which now lunnhcrL-d 
 twi'nt\- in all, wc-ix- harnessed, and the parts' .^ot nnder 
 way ; a loni^, strai^^^lin:^- i)rofession, sliding- on skis <jr 
 striding o\er the yielding- white snrface on their snow- 
 shoes ; Lient. Tears in the \an and marking; the eonrse, 
 followed closeK' I)}' (iil)Son and his team. Dr. Cook with 
 another, and Astrn]) hrin^inj;' np the rear, with the bi,^^ 
 doi;-sled and a smaller sled in tow. Henson's heel 
 (which had been frozen dnrin<4- the j^recediiiL; winter) 
 became so i)ainfrd after abont a mile of the inland ice 
 liad been traxersed, and he snffered so intensely with it, 
 that it was thought best not to let him continne fnrther, 
 and he was accord ini^ly sent back. The wild wohes, 
 miscalled doi^^s, which made np the teams were fonnd to 
 be an exceed in^ls- dilTicnlt lot to niana.^e. vSearceh- an 
 honr i)assed when t)ne or the other had not sncceeded in 
 twisting- his harness into knots or did not ^et into a 
 bloodv wrani^le with some one or other of his com- 
 panions At the rests of the ])art\-, it frecpientK- hap- 
 ])ened that the whole pack wonld break awa\-, ami then 
 ensued a time of chasing- and recai)tnrin,<;- the wild 
 animals, in which their captors were often, and sonu- 
 times se\-erel\-, bitten. 
 
 \'er\- little ])ro.!L;ress was made on May <S, the second 
 dav after the start, owini; to the violent jLjale which 
 blew from the interior drivini:;- the frozen particles of 
 the snrface ice into the faces of the ad\ancin<j column. 
 
TUI-: rr.AKY rei.iei' i:xri-:i^irioN. :.-- 
 
 To sliicld t.lR-niscI\-L'S aj.;aiii>l llir blizzard, iL;liii>s wiix' 
 coHsiniclc-d of snow, into which tin- |iarl\ rirpl lo 
 wail until \.\\v slorni shonld ha\-c' ahatrd il> st.Ai.ril\-. 
 AflL-r twenly-fonr honrs of this confmcnu-nt llic cold 
 became nnbcarablc, and notwithstanding- the >tin!^ii!^- 
 impact of the ic\- ])articlcs, Lii-nt. l'car\- and (libson, 
 who luul sluiicd one ut' the igloos, started out and at last 
 
 CATCniNC, FISH THROmiT THK ICK. 
 
 felt a .i^low oi warmth induced to their Ixxlies by the 
 exertion. 
 
 IvOokiniL;' for Dr. Cook and Astrnji, who wiie 
 encamped further on, they found them almost com- 
 ])letely buried out of si^ht. The upslanders of tluir 
 sleds, h\e feet or more luL^h, were just bareh' \isible 
 above the drift. b'or hours the explorers worked at 
 extricating^ the sledt^es. It was lound that Dr. Cook 
 and Astrup had been unable to *;et t)Ut ot their ij.;lou 
 
1; 
 
 378 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 
 because of the fri.Ljhtful drift and wind. After the sleds 
 had been (\\v^ ont the do<;s had to 1)e corraled. Tlie 
 brntes had broken away and had cliewed uj) tlieir liar- 
 ness, Ix'sides dcvonrinjj^ c\er\" ])article of food whicl'. was 
 accessible, and tlieir recapture was a task of no little 
 difficulty and required ])atience a> well as (le\lerit\'. It 
 was usually done b\' allurinjj;- them with food, rapidly seiz- 
 inj;- them and bur\ing their heads in the snow. W'lun 
 done skilfully enough one mi.i^ht expect to escape 
 with the infliction of onl\- two or three bites. Some <if 
 them, howe\-er, befjre lhe\- were sulxlued, had to be 
 la.ssoed and almost choked to death. 
 
 The ex])eriences with ii4lo(>-» had proN'ed so disagree- 
 able, thev were f)und so cold and occupied so nuich 
 time in buildim;, that on the later marches the\' were 
 entirely tlispenscd with. 
 
cH.\rTi-:R XIII. 
 
 Tin: Jdikni.v ovi.K Tin: Ini.anh Ici:. — iMruKT.wr (".hockaimih. ai. 
 I »isci)\i:kii:s. — C.ki !:ni.ani» an Isi.anh. — lM>i:rKNi'i:Nei': 1!ay. — 
 Tni-: Ri:TruN. 
 
 UXI)I\R IIksl- and similar (lisc()ura;^ciiKMils, at last, 
 on Ma\' 14, tin- true inland ice was U'achrd, and 
 not nntil the next day. May 15. did the- party make their 
 first inarch over its j^radnal and easy incline. In the 
 interim, four of the do,t;s had snccmnbed to a disease 
 ])eculiar to their hreed. l-'our of the ei.nht sled.^es with 
 which the part\- had set out had also been abandoned as 
 unserviceable. 
 
 A contri\-ance inveiited b\ Lieut. I'ear\- ma\ hert- be 
 mentioned. It consisted of a li.^ht wheel about three 
 feet in diameter, with a hollow hub, in which was ])laced 
 an odoiuetre, a simple de\-ice of clock-work. This was 
 attached to the rear of one of the sled.i^es, and b\- its 
 means not onl\- was it possible to keeji an accurate rec- 
 ord of the nuinl)er of miles tra\-eled, but this record was 
 f(jund a \-er\- useful aid and >ui)pleineiit to the results 
 obtained bv sextant, chronometer and compass in the 
 reckonings for ])o>ition. 
 
 I))- the twent\--first of Ma\- the part\' found itself 130 
 miles from Red Cliff House on the ed^e of the basin of 
 the },n-eat Humboldt (ilacier. Here a halt was made 
 
 --S 
 
 M 
 
 M 
 
■■*'W»*!l«Wl*«._ 
 
 ! I 
 
 :S(, 
 
 JN .lA'C'/VC s/-:.-is. 
 
 m 
 
 '1: 
 
 • 
 
 and a (liscussidii had as lo llu' coinpositioii of tin- |iarl\- 
 w'licli was III ad\aiicr rnrllirr iinrlliward. Lirul. iV-ars' 
 sul)iiiitU(l lo liis (.'onipaiiions llial now Ihcy liad liad a 
 fair torrlasK- of wlial woidd lia\r to !)(.■ (.■iiduu-d, and llial 
 [\\v\- \\x\\: ])rol)al)ly awarc' of ilu' fu-l tlial llu- ])id|ioS(.'d 
 jonrntA was not lo Iil- a holiday jannl ; ihal Ik- had tk-- 
 Urniintd <'n taking willi liini oii!\- a sini^k' i'oni])anion, 
 and lif c-cdk-d npon <>uv of llii.in to xdlnnUrr for this jio'-i- 
 tion. Alk Hi'. Cook fii>t, followc-il 1)\- Astrup and ( iikson, 
 ivs|)on(k-d with alacrity, (.'ach r\])n.'Ssin,L;' his c-ai^c-rnc-s.s to 
 ])rocc(.'(k so that it diAdlwd upon I^itiit. I'c-ary to (kcidc 
 bttwc-rn tlu- three-. 1 k- chost- Astru]), and se-k-ctt-d thir- 
 trrn of tin- doL;s and thrc-e of tlu- sk-d.^vs k)r his own usr. 
 Tin- otlK-rs were- sent ha.ck witk Mr. (libsoii and Dr. 
 Cook, ('.ikson was niNTn connnand of tla- re-tiirnin^ 
 partx , and Dr. Cook was (k-pntize-d to take- charL^e- of 
 the- se-ttk-nie-nt at Re-d Cliff House- until kis chie-f should 
 return. 
 
 The- ne-.\t niorniut^-, afte-r the- loads kad ke-cn re-adjuste-d 
 and tke- hiskiuL; of tke- sle-di^e-s looke-d afte-r, Dr. Cook 
 and (liksou. supplie-d witk ample- rations, and ])ro\-ide-d 
 witk one- of tke- li.L^kte-r sk-d^e-s dra.i^'^e-d k\- a te-ani of two 
 do^s, bade- tke-ir e-onipanions kuvwe-11 and se-toutou ike-ir 
 return to ^k'Corn^ie'k Haw Tke-ir re-turn trip was witk- 
 out incide-nt and eN)Uiparati\'e-ly pk-asant, and it wasuiade- 
 witk uiue'k .^re-ate-r e-ase- tkan tke- outward journe-y. Tke-y 
 arri\e-d at Rvd Cliff House- on July 3. 
 
 .\fter tke-\- had de-parte-d Die-ut. I'e-ary laid his e-onrse- 
 uorthe-asl true-, hoping- the-re-by, if the- nia])S of the- re-L;iou 
 
k 
 
 r. 
 
 t- 
 r 
 
 f 
 
 c 
 
 t- 
 t 
 
 c 
 
 r. 
 
\w 
 
li 
 
 ■/'///■; /'/•:. I A')- A'/;/.//;/- i:Xi'i:nrm^\. 
 
 K 
 
 4 
 
 wrw to 1k' tnistid, to tscapi' tlir h.isiii of I'rtnniaini 
 iMoid a> will a> of Si. (kor^i's I'iotd IhaoikI. Tlir 
 ordcT of march wliii'li \va> now adoiilrd waN krpl up 
 tlirou,L;lionl llu- jounu'V. In a(l\aiu'r stvoiU- I<iiul. 
 l\ar\\ (.ACT)- fafuU\ >lraiiK-(l to kiip his (Hirctioii, 
 Astnip, in cliari^c' of [he do^s and ihr sKd,L;r>, l)Mii.L;iii,L; 
 up ihr rear. 'iMir do.i^s soon hrranu' acc-n^touu-d lo lol- 
 low ihr Icadrr, and with an occasional nr.u;in;^ and cn- 
 conra,L;cnicnl from .\>lrnp, llicir driver, in dm- liuic 
 l)ccamc (|nilc mana,u;cal)l(. ami buckled down to iln' 
 arduous work expected of tlieni with a ri.L^ht L;ood will. 
 Owiii.L; to the nature of that limitless white wilderuos, 
 haricn of all landmarks, the task of keepin,!^ a direction 
 was most (.'xhaustini:; ; mere description will nixe no 
 idea of its fatii^ue. In e\-er\- direction, as far a> the e\ e 
 can reach, is an unbroken, white expanse, withont 
 relief, without lantlniark of an\- kind ; in fact, a> bare 
 of such as tlk' trackli-ss oci'an. An hour"> prou;re» at a 
 time, with constant reckonings and references to com- 
 pass, charts and other means of determinin.i; po>ition, 
 was all that was ])ossible, and the wear was so .L^reat as 
 to make it at times unendurable. 
 
 In his belief, howe\-er, that b\- the coursi- taken he 
 would ckar the I'eterniann I'.a.sin, Lieut. I'earx wa> mis- 
 taken. .\t the end of sewn da\s' march a detour of 
 some ten miles became necessary in order to a\oid 
 the inecjualities and cre\-asses wliich ])e,L;an to mark the 
 inland ice. This is a feature common to all ])oints where 
 there is an ()i)enin.i;- towards the >ea ; these openings 
 
ii 
 
 II; 
 
 'i 
 
 
 i( 
 
 384 
 
 /N ARcnc S/i.tS. 
 
 favoring; llu- (ktacliiiR-nt of portions tVoiii the central 
 mass and the forni.'ition of j^lacit-rs. 
 
 It was on the last day of .Ma\' that the basin of IVler- 
 niann I'iord was reached. The weather was pleasant and 
 clear ; the thennonieter re<ristered 77' in the snn at niid- 
 da\ . The explorers went into canip and remained there 
 for thirt\-si.\ honrs, availinj; themselves of the oppor- 
 tnnit\- ofTered by the clear day to thoronj^hh' dry their 
 clothes ; and Lient. Peary e\-en felt mo\e(l to enjoN' the 
 Inxury of a snow bath. I-'rom Petermann I'iord onward 
 the surface was fonnd to be almost le\el, so that the 
 hij^her peaks which marked the fiord remained in si^rht 
 a distance of nearly fort\- miles. lUit soon after this the 
 j^ronnd bej^^an to ascend. 
 
 This was a snrprise to Lient. I'eary, for, accordinj^ to the 
 charts, the next ^reat indentation, that of .Sherard ( )sborn 
 Fiord slionld be nmch fnrther to the northeast than this 
 rise indicated. vSiqiposinj^-, however, that it was (jnite 
 possible that the basin of that fiord mi«;ht extend nincli 
 fnrther inland and southward than it was heretofore be- 
 lieved, he continned on. On the eij^hth da\- of Jnne its 
 snpposed depression was in sii.dit. In order toescajje the 
 expected ineqnalities of the si.ir'ace it was decided to de- 
 flect the conrse to the eastwi'vd. As the experience of the 
 next fortnij^ht demonstraLeil, it would have been well if 
 this rcsolntion had been taken sooner, for the travelers 
 soon fonnd that they had walked ri<4ht into the southern 
 cd<;e of a j^reat .glacial depression, and were amonji^ the 
 crevasses and short slipper}- hillocks of ice whicli form 
 
 
THi-: I '/•:.'! A' ) ■ AVi'A //:/ • j-:xri:ni noN. 3S5 
 
 their iiifvitahlf ai-coiiipaiiiiiK'til. < )ii the opposite side of 
 thv jjlacial basin rose steep eliffs and iey sh)pes, which it 
 was inipos>n)le to scale with thi'ir heavilv-hiden sledj^es. 
 The weather had l)econie \er\ threateninj^; an<;r\' 
 black clouds were iLj^atherinj^s and scarcely had the ad- 
 venturers j^one into canij) for the day when the storm 
 broke loose with <,aeat violence. In)r two da\s they 
 were fast ])risoners in their little shelter, consislinin of 
 an excavation made into the snow and fnrther protected 
 
 -.-"/^''■^ 
 
 i;SKIMnS' I'llX-TRAT. 
 
 as well as nii^ht be by bankin.t; their sled_L,a'S and spread- 
 in<>^ a tarpaulin and a small sail to the windward. When 
 the storm had abated and, after obserxinii;- the lay of the 
 land, it was found that there was nolhinj^- to do l)ut to 
 turn to the south and reach the more practicable sur- 
 face of the hei,t;hts of the interior ice-cap. Two entire 
 days of most difficult and arduous clind)iu!:; were re(|uire(i, 
 many miles of the hard-earned northerly ad\-auce had to 
 be retraced, and an elevation of more than 6000 fret 
 
y.-ffjg^jiwy:^-; 
 
 
 )\h 
 
 k 
 
 386 
 
 /N ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 al)o\'(j sea k'\el R-achcd, ])clorc its unobstniclcd, c-vcii 
 coiivexit)' was a,^aiu under fool. To the eastward was 
 still seen the depression which marked the fiord. 
 
 After turninj;- the same the march was continued a 
 short distance to the north and northeast, when the 
 i^round aj^ain showe<l si^ns of unevenncss and be^nan to 
 be traversed b\' yawnint^- crevasses. To add to the diffi- 
 culties tliey were now beset by bewilderin,!;- fo,L;s, throw- 
 iiio- everythin<;-, snow, air and sky, into a miiform hazy 
 white li.^ht, making it impossible to distinguish one from 
 the other, the effect l)eing nnich the same as tlnnigh one 
 were enveloped in complete nothingness ; there was no 
 outline; all was one forndess void. I'nder these circum- 
 stances there was nothing to do l)ut to await more fa\-or- 
 able conditions. 
 
 In the excessively hard work of the da\s just described, 
 Xalegaksuk, the l<est of the whole dog team, had si)raiued 
 his foot and soon showed signs of the dog disease, and had 
 to be killed. The large sledge, too, had suffered from 
 the strain, and a whole da\- was sjK'Ut in relashing and 
 making other repairs. The intervals were filled up b\- 
 readjr.sting the loads and throwing awa>- such things as 
 ex])erieuce had iiroxeii could be spared. 
 
 It was now discoxered that the basin which had been 
 sui)p()sed to be the vSherard Osboru iMord was in realit\- 
 that of vSt. (ieorge, wliich extends much further inland 
 than was herett)fore believed. The crevasses last en- 
 countered, howe\"er, belonged to the glacier basin of 
 Sherard Osboru. 
 
TlfE PEAR } ' Rr.LIi:!- EXPRDfTION. .^S; 
 
 Drlk-ctin,-; a-ain towards tin.- icx-cai). ^'li^ last (U-jtivs- 
 siun was at last succcssfnllx- flanked. The oMirsr was 
 a,<;-aiu ii()rtl:.,M>tward. The wcallicr was clear, the sun 
 shone hriohtlx-, hut travel now was impeded bv a new 
 ditficiilt\-; the snow became x.ft and stick\-. and the 
 heat so oj)i)ressive that the voya-eis were constrained to 
 throw off all of their outer clothin- The risin- -round, 
 too, indicated that the\ were ascendni- the divide be- 
 tween vSherard Osborn and of another indentation of the 
 shore further to the northeast. These combined dis- 
 comforts affected the s])irits of botli the travelers. I'.xen 
 Astru]), always l)ri-ht and cheerfnl, was depressed, his 
 merr_\- sin-in- which had accom])anie(l the prex-ions daws 
 of smooth, easv -lidin- ha<l ceased, and with li])s com- 
 pressed and in -rim silence he was aidin-- his tu-.-ini^^ 
 team b> pnshin-- the hea\_\- sled.i;es up the steep 
 inclines. 
 
 I!y the t\vent\-si.\th of June the ei-hl\-second par- 
 allel was reached. Tlie coast-land, which dnrin-- the 
 da\s immediatel\- precedin-- had, from time to time, 
 been si-hted, and up to this ])oint was invarial)]\- seen 
 toward the nortliwest, her- suddeiih- confronted the 
 travelers on the northeast, trendin- first east, and finallv 
 southea>t. Snpposin-- he had reached \"ictoria Inlet, 
 
 Lient. I'ear\- chan-ed 
 
 his course southeast, expectin;-- he 
 
 would ])e able to >kirt it and -vt around its lu^ad, as 
 he had alreadx' turni'd that of iVtermanu and Sherard 
 Osborn. lint the coa>t, now clearlv in si-lit u\\ the left, 
 mamtauied its trend in a din-ction almost true sontlu^ast 
 
!|: 
 
 ■ U 
 
 jSS 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 Sv 
 
 m 
 
 1: 
 
 and parallel with the course a(l()])te(l, aiul several 
 glaciers were passed, all flowing; in a northeasterly 
 direction. 
 
 At lcn<i^th, on July i, land was sighted almost due 
 east. It was mountainous, free of ice or snow, and 
 throuj^h a depression between two of its hioliest knobs 
 nothin<; was seen in the sk\' beyond of the ice blink, nor 
 of that blue haze iudicatinjLj^ land. Wliat could it be 
 then but a lofty headland, and what beyond but the 
 waters of the hi,i;h Arctic ocean washing the eastern 
 coast of Greenland ? 
 
 The northern terminal iK)int of the large glacial mass 
 which covers the whole interior of (ireenland had been 
 reached — that was clear. At its foot, before the trav- 
 elers, la\- a bare, stony country- ; bexond it the higher 
 land first seen, and beyond that — what ? 
 
 Selecting a spot which seemed most favorable to a 
 descent from the ice-cap, and determined to solve with- 
 out delay the myster\' which the heights in the east con- 
 cealed, Lieut. Pear\-, leaving Astruj) in camp, proceeded 
 at once over the rough, broken, stony ground towards 
 the depression seen 1)etween the mountains. The dis- 
 tance did not seem great, ])rol)ably four or five miles, 
 and a few hours would suffice to tra\-erse it and return. 
 Hut the mountains appeared to recede as the explorer 
 advanced. Ivx'erN' hill which was clind)ed, in the belief 
 that sureh' it was the last intervening between the goal, 
 was fi)und, when its toj) had l)eeu reached, onl\- to reveal 
 another eminence beyond. The ground was e.\cessi\ely 
 
THE PEAR ) ' RELIEE EXPEDl HON. :,Hg 
 
 difficult; the sharp, hard splinters of brokfii rock, whicii 
 ccjvcrcd it in a confused hiycr, cut mercilessly throut;li 
 the foot.^ear of the traveler ; the oppressive lieat, the 
 steady ascent — all these conspired to make this one of 
 the hardest ])ieces cjf work of the entire tri]). 
 
 At first the country traversed was absolnteh' barren, 
 the stony .ground showinj^-- not even so much as the trace 
 of a lichen. What words therefore can describe tlie plea- 
 sure of the vo\-a.i;er when suddeuK" he heard a twitterins^^ 
 and a little black and white snow-buntin.Lj Hew overhead? 
 Soon another trace of life was seen, a ])atch of nn.iuid, 
 under the lea of a hu.^e boulder, fifteen or more feet 
 hij^h, covered with a luxuriant crop of orass. \\\- eau 
 ima.i^ine his feelin<4S when it is remend)ere(l that these 
 bits of rank vegetation are in all (ireeuland a sure indi- 
 cation that the sjiot was once the site of an i.^loo, and 
 how his pulse umst have quickened when it fiashed on 
 him that jiossibl)- he was in proximit\- to human beings. 
 
 Closer inspection, however, showed that the ])lace 
 was a shelter for musk-oxen, some hair and other traces 
 of the animals beinj;- found. .Musk-ox traces n..w be- 
 came numerous; a bleached skeleton of oiu- was seen 
 with the bones broken in such a wa\ as to lead Lieul. 
 IVar\- to su])])()se the animal had been killed and de- 
 X'onred b\- woK'es. 
 
 Mowers, loo, beo-au to appear, ])uri)le. while, and llie 
 e\-er-present yellow .Vrctic pop])\\ and throUL;h the air 
 snow-buntin.L,'^s fluttered hither and thither with uierrv 
 son<^ 
 
»,aH 
 
 ■^f 
 
 390 
 
 IN AKCTIC S/CAS. 
 
 \W 
 
 \: 
 
 Tile a])i)aixnt fi\X' luiks dislaiicc to llir opciiin,^- in the 
 liills had now k-n^lheiKnl into ihrici' thai nnniher, and still 
 the co\(.t(.(l siLjht heyond was not obtained, rnwillin.i^l)' 
 enon.^h, hnl eonipelk'd thereto h\' the eondition of his 
 car.nniks and the eut^ and laeeralion of his feet, he 
 returned toeani]). where he f mnd Astrnpanxionsly wait- 
 in:^-, and read\" to ser\e his eoinpanion with all three of 
 the deferred and aeennmlated meals of the day. What 
 had been ,sn]i])osed at the outset to he onl\- a short 
 exeursion of a few hours' duration had heen prolon^^ed 
 into a 1 went}- four hours" task, and the wor>t of it was 
 that its main jmrpose had bc-eu frustrated; the outlook 
 o\'er those alluring; summits l)e\dnd had not l)ei.-n obtained. 
 
 After a refreshiui;' sk'ep, therefert.-. it was resolwd b\- 
 Lieut. l'ear\' to le;i\e the sled.i.;es and take .\strU]) and 
 thedo^sand rations lor li\-e da\s and >et out a.i;ain on the 
 .same ]Kith. .Vecordin^h' an earh' start wa-^ mack' ; the 
 do^s seeutiuiL^ the laud et)u!d hardly be held in leash. 
 The torrid sun had melted i;reat lakes into the face of 
 the glacial ice, and these, l)reakini4- the banks of snow 
 which restrained them, rushed and fell tiunblinj;- in 
 roarin,i;' cascades down the slope, and formed a ri\'er at 
 the base of the ice-cap. 'I'his had to be forded, after 
 wdiich the wa\" lay tor a mile or more throni^h slush, in 
 which thepart\- ilounck'red until at length the\- readied the 
 bare conntrs' be\'on(k The route chosen was sli^hth' dit- 
 feivnt from that trawrsed by Lieut. Pearv on liis first ex- 
 cursion, and ]U"o\ed, it jiossibk', iutniitely worse. Uarreu 
 be\()ud conception, the ground was a layer of Hint-hard 
 
 1-, 
 
 
WSSSBSSsamm: 
 
 1: 
 
THE PEARY RELIEE E.\7'E/U770X. 
 
 39,1 
 
 stones, conipaclc-d into a conj^loiiRTaU' 1)\' llu' liu;;v glacial 
 weight which for ai^cs had l)oriK' down upon thfin. Thi.- 
 upturned cd<;es cut throu,L;h leather and into the feet, and 
 here and there hu-.^er stones hiy intersjxrsed, o\er which 
 the tra\elers frequently stunil)led,sustainin^- severe bruises 
 and cuts. Xo siij;u of life was \isil)le but an occasional 
 popp\-, but uiusk-o\ trails a^ain were jilentiful. The do.^s, 
 wliose number was now reduced to ei.i^ht, sullered exceed- 
 inol\- durin<^thisrou,i;hniarchin,y;. AL;ainone hill followed 
 the other in ])rovok.ini;- succession, still obstructing the 
 desired view. Tired and utterh worn out the part\- 
 encauiix'd at last for a few iionrs of much needed rest. 
 
 When the\- had refreshed Lhcmselves and had resumed 
 the ardu<Mis march, just as they were pickiu;^- their wax- 
 down the steep sides of an ancient glacier bed, two black 
 specks were seen in the distance. Se\eral experiences 
 of the same nature, when a supposed musk-ox had 
 turned out on a nearer view to be nothing but a boulder 
 amoui^- the snudler stones, had prepared the traxelers 
 for a similar disajipoiutnieut. lUit ]irescntl\- the two 
 objects were observed to ha\e chan.i^ed position. 'I'hey 
 were alive ; this time there was no mistake about it. 
 Here at last was an ojiportuuity to ba^- fresh meat and 
 chan_t»e the monotony of two months of pemmicau diet. 
 Cautioush- creeping ujion the \-ictims Lieut. Peary fired 
 and had the satisfaction of brin^in:^' down both a l)ull 
 and a cow, as well as a \earlin,i;' calf, which had been 
 concealed from \iew behind the larger animals. Aches 
 and 'pains now counted for nothin_i;- in the eai^er rush 
 
•.— .•i.,!.J(S6fc)Ji 
 
 394 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 
 
 h, 
 
 'ii 
 
 iMiwanl. AfkT rapid'-/ skiiiniii!^- llicir i^amc and culliui^ 
 mil llir sirloins and choice morsels for lluirown nsc, one 
 of the carcasses was sliotildered and carried towards the 
 doj^s. Tile latter were lyin:^- about in a dispiritc'd fashion, 
 lickini; their wonnds and bruised feet, when llie still 
 warm and reekini^ mass was tlirown amonj^st them. 
 IK're was meat, fresh, blofxly, raw meat. With a howl 
 of delii;ht the i)ack rushed ni)on it and fell to, until in 
 no \-er\' i^reat while a heaj) of bones was all that was left. 
 
 In the meantime .\strup had found a small i^rass- 
 co\-ered spot, whose bright ^reen was dotted with Arctic 
 (lowers, the e\-er-present p<>])p;.- anion^ them ; he- had 
 spread tin. skins of the musk-oxen and pnl up tin.' tar- 
 ]ianliu as a screen from tlie sun, and here upon this 
 sumptuous couch he nudted his com])anion to stretch 
 liis limbs, while 1k' ])roceeded to prepare a supper of 
 musk-ox steak. .Vlon^^side the camp a little brook 
 murnnired o\'er the stony liottom ; the twittering- snow- 
 bunting made music pleasant to tlie car ; even a bum- 
 ble-bee was obserx'ed hovcrim;- in the warm sunshine o\er 
 the nower-s])au,nled L;rass plot, and the flies around the 
 remains of the musk-oxen were gathered in th.ick black 
 swarms as numerous as in onr own climate. To attempt 
 to move with the dos^s (.^or^^ed with their recent hca\-\' 
 meal was out of the (picstiou ; to lea\e them behind 
 ecpialK' so, and a few hours' rest was therefore absolutely 
 necessary. 
 
 The march was resumed in excellent spirits by all and 
 at last the summit of the hij^h land was reached. It was 
 
Ill 
 
 THE I 'EA A' ) ' RliL //■:/■ AAV ■/•:/ '/ '/ K hV. 
 
 V)5 
 
 found to be a rallRT small plateau, it> furtlKr ed-r (kscriid- 
 iu.U^ in a cliff 4(km) feel sheer down to the sea. At the toot 
 of the eliff, llowin,!;- northward, was a Irmiendons -lacier 
 IweKe miles across and measnrin.i; at least twent\ around 
 the ])eri])hery of its dischar^in,^ point. iicNond the 
 glacier to the east the cliffs rose a^jain, as hij^h as ou the 
 hither side, and in Nonic i)laces his/her. In the norlh 
 was seen the month of a fiord reaching from the face 
 of the .i^lacier hack into the land in a westerl\ direction, 
 and jM-obably connectin,^- with \'ictoria Inlet. Looking; 
 east be\-ond the .glacier was seen a ^reat ba\- slrtlchiuL; 
 east and northeast. The land of its northern shore, as 
 well as the land beyond the tiord, was obserxed to be tree 
 from snow. The northeastern e.\tremil\- of the Green- 
 land continent had been reached. Greenland is an 
 island. 
 
 It was Jnlv 4, iS(j2, and in honor of the da\ the l)a\- 
 w;is called Independence Day ; and the ^reat glacier, 
 AcadeniN- (ilacier, in honor of the Academy of Xatund 
 Sciences. .\ cairn was built of piled-up stones ; within 
 was dejiosited a record i)\- I.ieut. l'ear\-, endorsed with 
 the usual recpiest to the finder to return the same to 
 the .Secretary of the Xavy. The ,^-old-t"rin,i;ed ,>ilkin 
 national 1)anner which had been presented to him by 
 the acadeniN' was fixed to the Ioul; baml)oo rod, which 
 the explorer carried throu.i;hont the jonrne\-, and plant- 
 inf; the same upon the cairn, it was unfurled — the tirst 
 ila<4- of an\- nation that e\er tloaled o\er tlie eastern 
 shores of (rreeniand above the seventv-seveuth parallel. 
 
!i 
 
 396 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 \ 
 
 Tlif <hiy was furllier tvlfbrali'd by ;i i)rincfly feast in 
 Nvliich a tliiiiihlcrul of l)ran(l\- for cacli of the fcastcrs and 
 musk-ox steak with veal cutlets of the same species formed 
 a lea(liti<i^ feature, and then they rolled over 011 their hacks 
 and fell asleep. 
 
 ( )n Jul\' 5 the return was heinun ; and 1)\- a sin- 
 t^ndar coincidence, on the very day that the explorers 
 turned their faces towards McCormick Iki)-, the relief ex- 
 pedition left vSt. Johns in the Kit(\ destined for the same 
 point fnMU an opposite direction. The walk over the 
 stones to the ice-cap was a repetition of the experiences 
 of the previous crossinj^, and, arrived on the ice, it was 
 found necessary to rest two da\s in order to iL;i\e the 
 doj^s an ()])portunity to recuperate from the hard usage 
 they had had. 
 
 The homeward march o\er the ice-caj) was une\-ent- 
 ful. To avoid all i)ossibility of again enctjuntering the 
 dilFicult ground at the head of the northern fiords the 
 course was shaped far inland, right o\er the hack of the 
 interior glacial mass. ]\Iuch of the tra\'eling was at the 
 high altitude of Sooo feet above sea level and through 
 the clouds, and for two weeks the party floundered in 
 deep snow drifts. As the\- approached nearer homeward 
 all superfluous baggage was abandoned and what re- 
 mained loaded on a single sled. The dog team had been 
 reduced to five, all the others having fallen \-ictims to 
 their work, and killed and fed to their fellows. A sail 
 rigged to the sled, and made of the tarpaulin covering, 
 was found u.seful ; the winds, which blow steady from the 
 
liil 
 
 THE PEARY A'E/.IEE EXPEnri lOX. 
 
 .V)7 
 
 inti'rior in ;i dirfL-lioii prrpnidicular lo llu- niasl-liiic, 
 takiiiiL,'' almost all llic strain fn>ni thu (l().i;s and at limes 
 eiitiR'l\' snillciuj; to move the sled. 
 
 At le ,'^4h familiar landmarks lioxe in si^i^ht — Dome 
 Monntain, a j^reat hammock between tlie inland ieeand 
 the head of MeCormick I>a\-, lay in the path. The 
 endea\'or to cross its coiuex back had to be !^i\'en up 
 for a time, nntil its snow snrface, softened by the sun, 
 should be frozen o\er. After a few hours' rest traxeliujj; 
 o\-er it was found ])raeticable. The crest was <jaiued, 
 and as he did so Lieut. Pear\- saw a number of dark ob- 
 jects two miles olT, moving; in the (lirection from which 
 he was coming. Thinkinj;- it was his own party, he 
 called to .Vstrup : ''There, there, the boxs are lookinj^ 
 for us," and dischartjed his carbine. The next moment 
 a cheer was heard comiui;;- faintl\- across the snow field, 
 and another look showed that the part\' numbered seven 
 or eij^ht. Realizinj^- that it nnist be a relief party from 
 .\merica, Lieut. Peary len<^thciied his strides on his 
 snow-shoes ; Astru]) was just behind, .gliding gaily on his 
 skis, with the dogs, who now needed no urging, on a dead 
 run down the slope — and soon the explorers were among 
 the partv of Prof. Heilprin, shaking hands, exchanging 
 greetiiiys and received with jo\ful congratulations. 
 
H> 
 
 ciiArriCR XIV. 
 
 'i; 
 
 Till'; "Kitk" in 'l"i<iiriii,i;.--Tiii; I'i.akn Takiv on Im.i.iu ii-.i,I) 
 Ciui.i'.— Till': Ri;i,ii;i' I'akts in Cami-.— A Mikcihson Soimi 
 
 (il.ACll'.K. — ni';AVV C.AI.IS AMI Rnl(,l| l', \ l'l';u 1 1 ;Ni:i':S. ~.M U. X'l'.K- 
 ll()i;i-l'' MlSSINC. — I'Kl.rAKATItlNS M)K Sl.AULII. 
 
 UNTIL after tin.- return of Lieut. IVary ami Mi, 
 Astrup from the inland ice the experiences of the 
 members of the relief [)art\', t!iou<,;h full of excitinj;- 
 incidents, liad yet been altoj^^ether most pleasant, and 
 accompanied b\' uniform ,l;(io(1 fortune and no suspicion 
 of actual (lauiL^er. liut on Sunda\ imniediateK- succeed- 
 inii;- that momentous e\ent, that is to say, on August 
 7, the A7/(' twice made an effort to _L;et herself into 
 serious trouble, and each time nearly succeeded. The 
 da\- t)pened ([uictly enou.^h, scarcely a rijiple disturbed 
 the waters of the ba\-, and the weather was uncomforta- 
 bh'warm. About dinnertime, however, a stroii,L;- breeze 
 came up from a glacier \alley at the head of the ba\'. 
 which soon reached the proportions of a small .^ale, and 
 caused the Kite to kick up her heels like a nouii!:;' and 
 frisky colt, and before lou.^' to start landward, dragginji^ 
 her anchor. lH)r some unexplained reason this was not 
 noticed by the crew until she was within dan<;erous 
 proximity to the rocky shore. Captain Pike, who had 
 
 398 
 
THE rEARY RELIEF EX PEP IT ION. 
 
 \m 
 
 been (iiiiftly rcadiiij.' in lii-^ cabin, wlieii ai)i)ii'^r(l of llic 
 tiouhlf, pmnipUN VdM.' lo llu- inKT^cncx', and iiiaiKeiuivd 
 to j;c t her inlit (kii) waUr. After a srwiv strnj^fj^k- he 
 succeetk'd in doinj;' so. This done, he onk-red the 
 anchor np, and dcchuxd his intention of sleainin,^ ahont 
 in the upper end of the' ha\- nntil the time canu' to 
 retnrn to the Red Cliff Ilonse. Accordinj^h , the Kile 
 wasi^ot nnck'r way, but she had scarcel\- reached the mid- 
 dle of the l>ay liefore she ran her nose two feet into a mud 
 bank, knocked off a larj^je piece of her falsi' keel, and 
 careened nntil it was almost im])ossible to keep a footinj^ 
 on deck. Inn'tunatel)- the tide was risini^, so that she 
 was not kept in this nneonifortal)!' position more than an 
 hour ; but this aunoyiuL; e\ent lollowin^ so closely on 
 the other was too much for Captain I'ike, and as soon as 
 he had clear wati'r under his keel, lie sent the vessel 
 down the ba\- at full speei'i and ne\cr stopped her nntil 
 opposite the Red Cliff Ilonse. 
 
 Two days later Ivieut. l'ear\- started with Mrs. I'eary, 
 Mr. \'erhoefr and some ICskimos for the head of lu^le- 
 field (lulf, at which place ]\Ir. \'erhoeff left them and 
 went on that prix'ate excursion to Roliertson l!a\', 
 wdiich, in the oi)inion of nearly eeer\' member of the 
 two parties, terminated in his (k'ath. The da\' followini^ 
 the Rearxs' and \'erhoclT's (k'parture all of the members 
 of the relief e\j)e(liiion, save one, proceeded to the 
 entrance of In<.;leriekl (iulf, where they camped for three 
 days, huntin<i^ _y;ame, f^atlicrinj:^ botanical specimens and 
 studying- the movements of glaciers. This trip was not 
 
 

 I 
 
 i » 
 
 llh 
 
 4fX) 
 
 LV .IRC77C SHAS. 
 
 \M 
 
 \ 
 
 as pk'asanl as it mii^Iit I'-'w l)eTii, for during' almost the 
 entire period tlie campers weie treated either to nast\ , 
 cold raii'.s or liea\-\' snow, wliieli melted as fast as it 
 fell. An exciting walrns hnnt an<l the \ie\v of a re- 
 markably handsome glacier, hii\ve\-er, wt re ample eom- 
 pensalion for aii\' personal di>eoniforls whieh were 
 suffered. 
 
 'I'his glacier was e\-identl\' one of the receding l-^pc. 
 It was about three miles wide and llowed into the \'al]e\' 
 l)i.'tweeu two hills of white sandstone, throU'^h whieh 
 basalt had thrust itself in ,L;reat s])urs, towers and ])iu- 
 u.a<, les. The entire \-alle\' shoxwd marks of i^laeial 
 action, i)ro\-in'^ that the !iii!_;iil\- ri\-er of ice ha I once 
 extended down its whole len_;lh. TIr- fice of the ^hi- 
 cier is fulK loo fei't Iul;!!, ai.d curws outward from the 
 sides in sliape like a fui, the outer boumlaries of which 
 mu-t nuMsurr fulK' eiL;ht miles. Like a hn^e wall of 
 marble it rosL' fic.m the \-alley, which it had torn up into 
 a pkice of terrible (Ksol.ition, the debris ol the shiwred 
 rock sides bearing evidence of the treuu'udi )us weight and 
 fcrci- that had ground iiiem literally to powder. Most 
 of the ici.' couiposiu!.; tin.- ^laciel" was of ,i ]iure w!iite 
 color, with striations of bliu' and ,nra\', ])Ut some parts of 
 il had wa\in;^ lines of yellow, brown ami black, jusl like 
 llie pri/ed marbles of 'renuessee. I'rom the summit aial 
 t!iroUL;h the pot holes slr(.'ams of watei' poured into a lar^e 
 water-course which lollows the iVout of the i^lacier. 
 These streams h.ixe worn the ici\ which is .dniost as h.ird 
 as rock, into ,^feal Ihimes and polished tluin into forms 
 
 Ji 
 
THE ri'.AR } ' RELIEF EXrEniTION. 401 
 
 (M\i^rt.-al 1)u;ml\- ami in color likf Mrxicaii onyx. In oik- 
 |iIk\' iIk- la'.i;*.' \vaUr-cour--i.- lia> uiiiK "ciil llu- i;laci(.T, 
 loMiiiiiL; a larm' rawni iiilo wliicli Iwo of iI-k- |)a;1\' 
 Weill tor a >liorl (lislaiict.- ; but iIk- walir ilri]>i)iii,i^ fioiii 
 ilk- roof, and llic- iVrlin^ llial tlir ina>- nii^lil fall at an\- 
 nioiiu'iit, niaiK- tin.' ])la(.\' too iin])k-a>;uil for tlimi to iv- 
 inain \-i.r\ loin'. 
 
 uul 
 
 Jim. ^ 
 
 1 Ai'l-: 111 \ 1 .Kil M, wii r.i. \(.- 1 i;k. 
 
 Tin.' caiii])iiiL; pailx irlunud to Mi(.'orniii,'k I'.av 
 sliortl\- after iiii(lniu;lit of .\n,mi>l i _>. I'.,irl\ 011 tlir fol- 
 lowiiiL: ila\ Mr. (iili-^oii (.'anK- l>a(,'k from a limit in tlu- 
 I'iw (ilaeirr \'allr\\ a drjirrN^ioii in tin.- liill> o;i the 
 north si(K of McCoiniitk Hav iirar it> luail, uliicli 
 
!fli 
 
 II' 
 
 402 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 ext(MKls ncarh' to Rolicrtson I'.ay. I-'or llic first time it 
 was now learned by the members of the relief expedi- 
 tion that Mr. \'erhoelT had separated from the party 
 of Ivieut. and Mrs. I'eary in In,<;lefield (inlf. It was 
 ascertained that, three da\s Ix-fore, Mr. \'erh(je(T had 
 appeared on the shores of McCormick Uay and informed 
 ;\Ir. (iibson that he was ^^oinj; up the valley to collect 
 minerals, and would be ^one two days. He then went 
 his wa\', but six hours later returned nne\i)ectedly 
 and told Mr. (iibson that as his absence would prob- 
 ably be four d.'As instead of two, not to wait for him, 
 but to return to the Red Cliff House, and at the expiration 
 of that time to send him a kajak and lie would come 
 home in that. .\s Mr. \'erhoeff, it was said, was not 
 very exjiert in the manayeViieiit of the nati\e bt)at, and 
 as it is not considered .safe to traverse McCormick Hay 
 in that kind of craft, instead of complyiu,^- with his wish, 
 Mr. (iibson on Tuesday, August 16, with Mr. IJryant 
 and three iCskimos, lupia, Onolka and Koko, took the 
 Faith and went after him. 
 
 That night the storm of the previous week which had 
 begun clearing away on Monday morning, and had en- 
 tirely ceased b\- Tuesda\' afternoon, returned and began 
 raging with redoubled fur\-, coutiuuing all day Wednes- 
 day. .\s Lieut, and Mrs. I'eary were aliead\- more than 
 a day overdue from Inglefield (iulf, considerable alarm 
 was felt for their safet\-, and fears were also entertained for 
 Mr.(iibson and Mr. I'rNant, the jieriod for whose return 
 liad likewise passed. l'',arl\- on the tollowing morning, 
 
^TK Miiiiw \\ii !>\\ii:i., Till-; icskimo i\ti:ki'i<i.it;k. 
 
IK. 
 
 I 
 
 t 
 
 (. 
 
 }/ 
 
 f 
 
rilE PEAR ) ' RELIEF EXPEDITION. 4(^5 
 
 liowi-Vfi-, th(>u,<;li the- oalc still coiilimud, the- two latttT 
 rctuniul without Mr. WTliocff, and late the same nij^lit, 
 Lieut, and Mrs. Peary also came hack, lia\in,^- ])eeii 
 compelled to leave their boat near Cape Cleveland and 
 to make the rest of the wa\- to the Red ClilT House 
 over the stony beach. Uoth i)arties had \i'>\v^\\ experi- 
 ences to relate, particularly that of Messrs. Cibson and 
 I5r\ant, who liad supplied themselves with but little 
 food, and had nothinj^ l)ut their l)oat to shelter them from 
 the cold rain and the fierce .^^ale, besides which thev ])rett\- 
 thoroughly exhausted themselves in their fruitles.s 
 .search for Mr. \'erhoelT. 
 
 It had been expected that, l)y Au>;ust 17, all 
 of the belonoiu<;s of Lieut. Peary and of the mem- 
 bers of the North (ireenland Ivxi)edition would be 
 on l)oard the A'/A', so that a departure from McCor- 
 mick P)ay homeward cotdd be made on the followiu.i; 
 day, but Mr. W'rhoeff's continued and mvsteriou.s. 
 absence, of course, compelled the abandonment of this 
 intention. This absence had now become so prolonged 
 that both Lieut. Pear\'s i)art\- and the relief partv became 
 seriousK alarmed for his safetx , the "lore especiall\-, 
 since it was known that he was iuMifncieiilh clad to 
 endure the bad weathei- which had been piexailiii", and 
 since Mr. Cibsoii and Mr. Ilr\ant, with the aid of the 
 three ICskinios, had not i)et,n a.ble to find aii\- traces of 
 him in the ])]ace he was supposed to be. It was there- 
 fore resoh-ed to make a systematic search for him, 
 which was accordini;ly be.^un at once and continued 
 
'■y^^rT''wvm^m'i^flll^ 
 
 i, 
 
 'i ; 
 
 ' 
 
 h I 
 
 W' 
 
 dt: 
 
 
 
 406 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 almost without intermission for sc\cn days and nij^hts. 
 In this hunt the Peary party, the relief expedition, 
 and such of the crew of the Kile as could 1)e spared, 
 participated, besides nine ICskimos, who were stinni- 
 lated to extra exertion by the offer of rifles and other 
 articles valuable to them. 
 
 ■J 
 
 ■: ilf 
 
 f 
 
 I 
 
 .;! 
 
 \ ^ \\ 
 
 
 u 
 
 1 : 
 
fc 
 
 1, 
 
 1, 
 
 l- 
 
 CHAPTKR XV. 
 
 The .Sharcii kor Mk. Vkkiiuiu'i-.— llow rr was C()Ni>rcTi;i).--I'ivK 
 Cir.AcnCR Val,m;v.— Tkaci:s ov tiiic Missinc, Man. — Iai- 
 
 DKNCKS OI' HIS DKATII. — AliANDO.NMIvNT OF THK SKARCH. 
 
 AS a beginnini>;, Lieut. Peary, ^Ir. (Mbsoii, Mr. 
 Astrup and four Kskiinos rowed to the lM\e 
 Glacier \'alley and made an exploration of it to tlie 
 north. While they did this, the AV/c was taken to 
 Robcrt.son Uay with the relief part)'. Dr. Cook and 
 five Eskimos, to search the south side and work o\er 
 towards Five Glacier Valle\-, where the first party h.id 
 been despatched. The\- first made incpiiriLS of the 
 family of Eskimos livini^- at Ii^loo I)uhome\- without 
 learnin<^ auythin;^ of Mr. W-rhoeff, and then dixided 
 into two parties, one under Dr. Cook and the oth.er 
 under Professor Heilprin. Ivich made an exploration 
 of one of tile \-alleys leadiui; towards the ice-eap on the 
 south, which was continued until earl\- the next niorn- 
 inj^-, the AVA' meanwhile steamin.t;- slowly alon,^; the 
 shores, Cajitain Pike keeping the sttam wliistk' blowin,!.; 
 at rei^idar intervals, 'i'he three partitas on shore crossi-d 
 each other before returning to iluir respectiw >>lartin:^ 
 points, and co\'ered a tract <if terrilor\ fully i'[vv miles 
 wide and ten miles lon;^, but wilhoul learning au} lliing 
 of the youu!,; mineralo,L;ist. 
 
 407 
 
 
■ t * 
 
 11 
 
 i: 
 
 .1 ! 
 
 \i 
 
 If 
 
 if: 
 
 't 
 
 40S 
 
 /A^ ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 Later in the niorninjj;, the shi])'s civw liavin<^ kept a 
 sharp lookout while the relief party took a short sleej), 
 the Kite was taken onee more to MeCorniick Wax and 
 stt)ppe(l at its head, where Lient. Peary was met with, 
 l-'roni him then were learned the circumstances under 
 which Mr. \'erhoeff went on his probably fatal journe\-. 
 It appears that while in Inj^lefield (iulf, Mr. \'crhoeff 
 asked i)ermissi()U to <^o to the Imvc Cdacier Valley for 
 minerals, sayinj;' that he would recpiire but two (bus for 
 the work. Knowin*;;' that the trip proposed was a safe 
 and very short one, and that Mr.Ciibson was there hunt- 
 inj:(, Lieut. Peary consented provided he would jjromise 
 to return at the time stated. Mr. \'erlioeff then started, 
 takin«;^ with him three pounds of iiennnican, and a 
 revolver, with fifty cartrid<4es, besides his <^eolo<^ical 
 hatchet and a bag', and a few hours later met Mr. (xibson, 
 as related in the last chapter. 
 
 F'rom Lieut. Peary, the relief ])arty learned that 
 neither he or those with him had found any traces of the 
 missing man. The anxiety for his safet>- now ])ecaine 
 greater than ever ; a general consultation was held and 
 })lans perfected for another and systematic search. In 
 conformity with the plan which was adopted, Lieut. Peary 
 once more entered the lM\e ( ilacier \'alle\-. Taking, 
 twelve Eskimos, besides his entire part\-, except Henson 
 who, with INIrs. PearN', remained at the Red Cliff House, 
 he extended them in a straight line clear across the 
 valley from side to side, and advanced with them step 
 by step along- its entire length, and over the ice-cap 
 
 ■(! 
 
Tm: PEA R } ' REL lEE EX I 'F.I V Tl( W. 
 
 4(19 
 
 and tal)k--lan(l to Robertson I5a\', t-acli man caivfnlly 
 searching' tlic i^ronnd f-ir traces of the missing ont- as 
 Ik- went. vSo minutely and thorou.^hly was this (h;ne 
 that a knife and handkercliief, lost 1)\- one of the parts 
 the year before, was found, but nothint^of Mr. WrlioelT 
 was observed. 
 
 At the same time while the lVar\- i)arty were doin^ this 
 the members of the relief i)arty made search of a lar.i^e 
 •glacier at the head of McCormick IJay on its southern 
 side. This was started in the afternoon, and was not 
 concluded initil the next !norninj;-, and while the ])art\- 
 was out the thermometer fell below freezing point and a 
 heavy snow storm bej^an, lastin,^- for nian\" horns. 
 
 The _ijlacier explored has a motion of sexeral feet a 
 and as it extends some distance into the ba\-, tli;it 
 
 ■A\ 
 
 porti 
 
 on o 
 
 f it 
 
 was 
 
 brok 
 
 en u]) into terrible cre\asses of 
 
 j^reat width and depth, and the ice comijosinj^' it ;;t 
 that j")lace hea\-e(l and jjiled up, until it resembled a 
 j^roup of white marble mountains, l-'urther up, the 
 ice was hununock\', with little lakes and streams of 
 water, but there were few crevasses, and these not of a 
 ver\' dan;^erous character. The glacier is se\en or ei^ht 
 miles loni;, and three or four bnuieh glaciers tinpt\' into 
 it, but without the usual trtuu-ndous teariui; up. the 
 upheavals i^iviniL;- the main body the a])pearance of 
 frozen sea waxes. 
 
 This <j^lacier was searched, becausL- it was thou,i,dit 
 possible that, by chance, Mr. \'erhoelT mii^ht have 
 returned to Mr. (iibson's camp, and hudin^ it 
 
 a*; 
 
I; 
 '' i 
 
 yi 
 
 410 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS 
 
 iU 
 
 i 
 
 ahaiiduiied and no boat left there for him, had decided to 
 make his way to tlie Red ClifT Mouse b\- land. If so, this 
 body of ice was in his path homeward. What made it 
 moi\' i)robable that he should have determiufd on takin<; 
 so dan.nerous a route was, that he had accomplished the 
 feat of erossiiij^ tliL' same i^lacier (lurin<4 the winter, when 
 it was co\(.red (k-ep with snow. 
 
 When the relief i)art\- returned to the ship for sleep, 
 Captain I'ike sent his fust officer, Mr. Murj)!!)-, with 
 sevend of tin.' crew to (.wplorc IIr' table-land on the east 
 of tlie glacier, as well as tin.' ^'or^e leadiuj^ to the ice- 
 cap. These remained out until e\enin,s4, when Profe.s.sor 
 Heilpriu look auollu'r ])art\ and explored the north side 
 of the same glacier tlu\' had tra\"eled oxer the ni^ht before 
 while Mr. Meehan with two uku made a close search 
 of the easterl\ shore of McCormick Day, from thence 
 towards the Red Cliff House, a distance of nine miles, 
 the remainder ha\in)L; been pre\ionsl\- co\en-d. Neither 
 ])arly returned milil the next morning, vSunday, Au<^ust 
 21. .Shortl\- after they came back, Lieut. l'ear\- too 
 returned from his (.xploration of ihe iMve ( ilacier \'allev. 
 
 I'ntil now, the fifth da\ of the search, but little 
 thou.^hl had been entertained by aii\- one of a fatal 
 accident haxiuL;- happened to Mr. Wrhoeff, but the care- 
 ful exploiatiiui of the lM\e (dacier \'alle\-, of tlie .^lacier 
 at the liL-ad of McCormick Day and its apjiroaches, as 
 well as the south shores of the ba\- to the Red Cliff 
 House, without any results, causeil the gravest couclii- 
 sious l<i be drawn, and ;i belief that he w.is dead be^an 
 
 5. 
 
 3c 
 
 I t 
 
 fit ' 
 i 
 
THE PEARY REIJI-.E EX/'E/^ITION. 
 
 411 
 
 to be c'XjJivssc-d. XiaitIIr'K'ss, the scarcli w.is |)U>1k(K if 
 anNtliin.L;, (.'vcii iiiori.' \iguR)Usly. Mr. Aslrup and Mr. 
 (lihsoii, with soiiK' of tilt' I'^skiiiios, wvw scut oiuc iiiori.' 
 tlin)U,i;li till' V'wc Cilacirr \'alk\, with (lirLctioiis to 
 traxi'l all tht- way to the shons of Rohi-rtsoii r.a\ and 
 c.xpUMV the approaches thereto thorou,L;hl\ . Lieut. 
 
 IC:,lii:KC, OFI- K()IiI-;RTS()N HAV. 
 
 Pear\-, with Dr. Cook and the remainder of the Ivski- 
 nios, took the /■'(u't/i and I'xplored the north shore of 
 McCorniick I'.ax- to Cape Robertson, and the Miuth shore 
 oi Robertson Ray to a i^ivat glacier whieh empties 
 into it at its head. Then the AV/r was once more taken 
 to the .same ba\', stopping oidy a short time at the \\ij([ 
 ClifF Mouse in order that a statement of the ill success 
 
-p- 
 
 IN ARiUC Sl.AS. 
 
 
 i: 
 
 (tf llu' >(.;inli, lluis far, iiii.i^lit he iiKi<l<- In Mi>. I'larw 
 111 R<il)i. rl>nii I'.av lanil. \\a\\ \\a> iiul ~\\\A laki n on 
 hoard, and Uuai, all liauds hriiiu; WDrn oiil fioiii iiiaiu 
 liotiis" (.■oiiliiuiou.N work, a .shoil period was laktii ;or 
 sk'i']). 
 
 l'",arl\' oil llu- tollowiu,:^ iiioiaiiiiL;, llir >i\lli da\- of 
 ihr .'-(.•ari'li, il w.i-- r(.•■^o]\■^.ll to i-Nplorc llu- .^nal ;;lai'i(.r 
 al llu- luad of Rohiilsoii Hay, I.iiiil. IVaiv'^ [larlv 
 lakiii,^; llu- South side- and I'rofissni IKilpiin tin.' iiorlli 
 si(k'. 'l'Iii> wasat ii'.,^i'. Ahoiil ilirei.' Iioiir-^ lalir tlit.' 
 Iw.i ])arti^s nut in llu' iiiiddlr of llu' i^nal ^ku-itr. and 
 Lic'il. IV'arx's > ad face piisam-d iiiiwc li-oiiic iu\v>. In 
 .1 W\\ words 111 rrlaU'd thai trai\> had hern fouial h\ 
 Mr. (iih-.oii of Mr. Wrhorff. which indie tied that iin- 
 lorliinale inan'.- alnio^l c-ertain death. The lirsl si,L;ns 
 were foolpriiiN, nndo'.ihledK Mi'. \"erlioi.'fl''>, and, aeeord- 
 in;.; to llu- nnaniiiioiis ojiinioii of the Iv-^kiinos who 
 tolioW'ed ihein up, tlie\- had hi-eil liiadi- oil or ahoill the 
 >aine (ki\- he had heeii la>l seen hy Mr. Ciiljsoii. 'riu->e 
 t'lolprinls led aloii!^ llie --oulh ^Iioie of Roherlsoii Il.ix-, 
 and wi-re soinelinies iinprinled in innd .nid soiiu-linu-s 
 on llu- foot ice. .\ li-w leel l)elow llie point where the 
 south j^ori^e l)etween ihetdifis and the ,L;kH'iL-r al the liead 
 of the l)a\- opened into the shore of llu- hax' itself, tlu-re 
 were louiid iiealK' jiiled on a rocd^ a nnnihc-r of 
 minerals wliicli hore tin.- in. irks of a hanniK-r a: 
 and tlure the hlue tVom a corned heef or ]k-' cm 
 can. I'.eside lliein were .'ilso found a small sera]) oi !ue 
 paper, ])ossil)l\- torn from the same can, and a small 
 
mi^ i^i 
 
 T> 
 
 r 
 
 (O 
 
 
 Hi ? 
 
h 
 
 I 
 
 i t! 
 
 
Till-: PEARY Ri:i.n:i- i:xrEnrnoN. 
 
 4 '5 
 
 pic'cc- of slrill,l,^ Just l)i\(.i 
 ol stor.cs, sand, imid and 
 
 id IS a slioil l)ul strip iiioiiiid 
 
 U'r. wllU'it liil tn llu 
 
 M'lLIC 
 
 al)(i\ (.■. 
 
 II 
 
 lit- a 
 
 PpauiitlN Ml. \\ iIi(K re had attiiupti-d to 
 cliiul), l)ut had slipped hacd^ to thi- hasr, N-r ihnc- wriv 
 marks in iIu- mass which indicati-d this, 'i'o ihr ri^hl 
 was aiiolhtr slo])r to thi- -<-r-i- not so dirUcnlt ot" ascxait. 
 Just ahow this Mr. WiIkhIFs loot>t(.p> wtu- a^ain 
 idcntilk-d, an 1 \\cw and thtii- out- was foiiiid Kadin- for 
 souir ih'.-^tauiv ahiu- the -or^v W-'-Av a stnaui, and 
 th(.ii up thr >i(k- of the soutli hitrral nioraim towards 
 an awlid crc\asM-. and hin- all tracts of thr inis'-iuL^ man 
 Were lost. 
 
 Ill spitr ol tlii> (K]ii\ssin.- luws, search waMontiiiiud 
 with a\idit\, Lieut. l\'ar\- and tlioM- with him cro»in.i;- 
 the tracks of the Ileilpriu part\ to the north ^idi- where 
 tlie\ madi- a loui.; and canful e\amination of the -or^e 
 niiinin,^ east and west. Tlu- otlu r parl\ picke<l their 
 way hetWL-eii and arouml nniueiou-. cre\asses to tin- 
 centre ot tile ,!^lacier and thence up to it-> iuiiclion with 
 a lar,L;e hodyof ici- which llowed into it from the uoilh. 
 where the .L;ori;es runilin- ea>t and uoilh were clo^eh 
 .i^oiie o\-er. Retreatin- from thi- place the pait\ worktd 
 their wa\ little h\- little towanl the lower part of ihe 
 south side. < )ii ai-i-ouiit ol' the increa>in- numher and 
 liad character of the cre\■asse-^ a> the di-idiar-iiiL; ]ioint 
 <tl the -lacier wa- appi-oai-hcd, thi- la-k was ,,nl\ ac- 
 i-(«ui]ili.slied atUr main hour-.' painful work. \t hii-th, 
 howe\er, till- south .L^or-e was ccitm- iipim and junction 
 made with Mr. Cihs,.!!, Mi. .\-.tnii) and Dr. Cook. 
 
^PKil 
 
 Ukt 
 
 416 
 
 AV ARCTIC SI-.AS. 
 
 Ii» 
 
 Ml 
 
 i 
 
 This L;l;u'iiT, whii'li, lioiii (.win iiidicalioii, Ii;ul 
 clainu'd a litiniaii sacrifux-, is a ri'iiiarkabK' mik- in mam- 
 ways. IniiKisin^ in its dwn body, it is snrronndril 1)\- 
 sciMUTy nnc\ani]il(.-(l in (in-t-nland for ijictnrcscpu- fra- 
 tnri-s and ,i;ran(k nr. It c-ni|>lits diixTtl) into tlu- luad 
 of Kolirrtson lia) , wlinx- tlif granite- rocks wliicdi liound 
 it, crinisonrd by liclR-ns, tower in j^rt^at peaks and pin- 
 nacles to lici.nlits of more tlian .juoo k-ct, and where 
 cliffs show nnhroken fronts for a thon>an(l or more feet 
 sheer fmn) the water's eij.^e. 
 
 The glacier is e\idently a rapidly mo\in,L; one, and 
 wl'.ere it pInn.L;(.s into the bax' shows a wall of ice nearly 
 if not (piite 100 feet hi.i^h, broken into conntless ja^^ed 
 confi<;nrations. Its total length from the iie\e basin, 
 into which the inland ice pours the sn])])h- for its 
 sustenance, is ])erhaps eii^ht miles, and its width at its 
 most ''xteuiled part fiw miles, while its dischar^iu!^ 
 ])()int is not more than three in a strai;^ht line and fixe 
 in its arc. 
 
 Into the main stream three or four ^jlaciers of more 
 than ordinar\- size empty at almost regular distances 
 ;il)art. teariui^ it. np into wild confusion for man\- hun- 
 dred yards. .\t the juncture of one of these arms and 
 the ])rincipal glacier there rises a nia.L;iiificent unnalak, 
 or mo\inlain jieak, projectiuL; abow the' eternal snow 
 and ice'. The' '(a^.x- of this nunatak is broken and 
 seamed with nunie'roi's ledges where \e'L;etation has 
 ^aine'd a foothold to a surprisin,^ e'Ntent. .\bo\e thiek 
 car[)ets of j^reen moss, dandelions, poteiitilla>, buttercups 
 
 
 V"'. 
 
IjtetusSMutaMaHW 
 
 rill-: /'/-.ih')- A' /■:/./ /■:/.- i:.\i'/:nriior. 
 
 4'7 
 
 and i.o,,i„\s ,v>u,l lik,. ,!,■,,,,> of ,.,,1,1 ,„, ,,,„.,„i,,, 
 Ann.no- tlinu uvu- nuniv ..Hkt Houvis nu.stiv nii- 
 faniiliar, l.ui tlu- Pm/uu nr wl.iulau- .^ra», aii-l tlu- 
 cliickuvc-.l M.iik-.l uilli tluir familiar Mi..\v-uliitr 1,1,..- 
 ><>nis aiiioiiM tlic Aivlir Mran-rrs. 
 
 TIk- Ik'.I ..f tlR. vallrv .,vrr uliidi the main -larirr 
 n..\vs is c-vi<lrntlv nf an tiudulaliii.t; natu.v. f,,r llirnn^I,. 
 «>ul its riuiiv k,,nth tlu- ice- is in hills an.l ri.l.^c^, R->nlt- 
 iii.^ in tiviiK-nd.,!,. cTc-vas>cs rxtui.lin- in cvctn diivc- 
 ti.m, which, as the, liM-ha,-in^p„inti> .varludJuoMiK- 
 so KtniRTous and awful that the iev .„.t l.n.kc-u stands i„ 
 •;>'i:mn.s,. o.nrs and rid-c-s, ..vct and, ani.,n,^ which n.. 
 niaa could po.ssibh- pass. 
 
 These crc\asscs 
 
 ■lie of unknown di'pth, reacliin- 
 
 l-'--''';d.Iv t,, the bottom of the . glacier a hundred or ni.,re 
 l-M,elow the surface. They are the more- treacherous 
 •■"id dan-eroirs from the unusual unnd.er of suou- I.rid-es 
 which span them. These sm.w l.rid.^es cover the tojn.f 
 an-evasse. liidin.^ it from view and, havin.^ almost the 
 same color as the al.uttin,^ ice, appear s,,Ii,l an.l safe to 
 stq.upou. It is oulv the trained eve that can distin- 
 .^tiish their ^:i.^htlv whiter tint, and a thruM < 
 alpenstock will reveal tluir dan.^c n.us character. Thc-sc 
 siKAv l.rid.^c^s mav be a foot thick or tlu•^ ma-, !,<• six 
 iVel, but thcv are all np,alh pcrihMis. So, ..er'or late- 
 tlK' <.uf.,rtunale ul,,. attempts to travcrM- then, mu.t n,. 
 tlnon.^h, and then, unles. he is ii,.,l bv ,M,.pe to ,. cm- 
 iKUiion, there- is no p.,ssible- chance ..f him cscapin,,^ a 
 lloirible de.ilh. 
 
 Ill 
 
 I 
 
t r 
 
 iSBtm 
 
 J '; 
 
 : f 
 
 4i,S 
 
 LV AKCT/C S/-:.\S. 
 
 
 i 
 
 It was to llir wiirsl ])()ssil)k' s])i)t in tlu- whole s^lacicr, 
 wluTL- llif icf SL-LiiK'd lo haw laiu mil and lorn into 
 thousands npon ihon^and^ of iVai^nKnt^, that thr foot- 
 steps of Mr. Wrhocff kil from ihi- hitcral moraine- on 
 the sonth sick, and from Ikml- no sij^irs of his haxin^ re- 
 treated were fonnd. 
 
 It was nearh nii(hii^lit on An^ust 2.;, the (hiy on 
 whieli the^e traces of Mr. \'erhoelf were fonnd, when all 
 the ])arties, inelndini; the I'',skinios, retnrned to the /\'//r 
 and took a mneh needed rest. 'l'hi> was the fnst time 
 since the search wa> !)eynn that at least one parly was 
 not eiy^ai^ed in it. Ihit not only were the mend)ers of 
 both e\pedilion> worn ont, hat the l'',^kinio- themscKes 
 showed si^ns of the strain wliich had been pnt npon 
 them. 
 
 In the morning;, afti.'r a consnltation, it was deter- 
 mined to make one more search. Mr. ('iil)son and a 
 nnnd)er of ICskinio^ wer^' sent hick to the 'glacier al the 
 head of Robertson l'>a\ ; 1 )i'. Cook, with Mr. .\strnp, to 
 a glacier on the north >ide ol" the ba\ and to the west 
 of the one Mr. (iib>on Iiad ;^oni' to, while the lelii-f 
 ])art\ di\ide(l into two sections, one nndei" l'roU's>or 
 Ileilprin to explore the approat'hes to still anotlur 
 L^lacier fnrther to {\\v west, and the other section, nnder 
 Ml. r.r\ant, to examine the coast line from this last 
 bod\ of ice and a \alle\ leading; to the It^loo l)uhomey. 
 'Phey traveled o\er the i^ionnd .i>si,L;ned to them rc'Spec- 
 ti\ely all da\-, but with no fnrlhei ie>nlt.>, and with 
 hea\\ hearts fnialK the nn. minions opinion was 
 
 
Till- I'l-ARY ri:lh:I- j:\ri:niTiux. 
 
 4 ' «> 
 
 cxprissc.i that fintluT searcli \v,i.> usclrs., and tlu- ..nKr 
 was -uxii I,, take' tlic AV/, .uht iiimr to McC-Miiiick 
 I!a\ 1(1 make prfparaliuiis fnr l'.a\iii- Amir waUrs. 
 
 'I'" l'i-<'\iiK-, li(.\vr\rr, tor tlk- s!i-!i[ rliaiUT thai Mr. 
 Wi'.inrrr iiii^lii W alivr, t!u' AV/, \va> st.^ppid al Ca]ir 
 Rm1ktIx.1i and mir vrar"-> i.invi.si..ii> carlu-.l .m a pvoaii- 
 iH'iil s|.Mt and Iitlrrs lor hini writtm aii.l -ivxu tn the 
 I>ki!ii..> ill i-asr lu- sli.iiild turn up. Tln' skip was tlu n 
 ,^•'1 uiukr \\a\. and a littk- krlmv ini.Ini-lit was aiudiMivd 
 ill iVont of ihr \<.v^\ Ciiff Ikai.sc-. 
 
 >P 
 
)Ih. 
 
 (,' II A I'T i; R X \' I 
 
 'i: 
 
 I.i;.\\i\(", MrCiiKMHK I'.w - SnKUdwiM; N \rivi s. — Ni: \ui.v Ici:- 
 HoiMi -A I'.i.vK Kii.i.i.h. - \kki\ \i. \ r Ci miiw \ N' \nki.i: 
 Dooiu.i'; IN CrKi.iAi.AM). An Ai kkua. 
 
 T' 
 
 'III'! iK'xt (lay, as soon as tlu- iiioniiiiL; iiual was 
 disposed of, all liastr \va^ iiiaiU- to imt tlu- r- 
 maiiiiiiL; traps slowi-d. a s|)(.(.(ly (U])arlUR- l)(.iui^ now 
 iin])'.Tali\c- in ordii" to a\-oiil biin^ i-an^lit in tin.' ic-r. a 
 ]iossil)ilil\ wliicli was (lail\ iK \(,'lo])inL; into a crrtaintN. 
 Tlir rrniainini^ fiw of tlu- (1ol;> whirli had ae-t-oni])anit.-d 
 I,iint. I\ar\ and Mi. .\stni]) on tluir inland lev jonnuA' 
 wrrr takrn on hoard t<i In t'on\f\ cd to tlu' I'nitc'd 
 .Stati-s, as wi 11 a^ "Jack,"" on*.- ot thr two Xiw lonndland 
 do.L^s that had act'onijianicd tlu- (.xiifilition tlu- priAions 
 war. 'I'lu- otlur do:^ of tlu- >anK- ^pvcics, " l'"rank,"" 
 was Kft l)t.diind andL;i\rn to I'".(|na, who had lakrn .i 
 fanr\ to him, a iVrlinL; whii'h tlu- animal appan-nth' 
 R-ci]>rin'atL-d. I''oi- llirrr or fonr honr> tlu.- l)oat> wm- 
 krpt pKinu; hi-twrrn tlu- >Iu>ri.- and tlu- A'//r with 
 tlu.' storrs K-ft o\Tr from tlu- pa^t winlrr .uid with tlu- 
 rich colK-t-tion^ of rthnoloi^v and natnral histoiA which 
 had lK-i.-n madr 1)\ tlu- Xorth ( in-mland I",\])(.-dition. 
 .\t Kn^lli, 1)\ onr o'clock, tlu-rc w;,-- luithinv; IcU to 
 do hnt lake U-axx- of the i;oo(i-natnrc-d, kiiul-luaitcd 
 
 natix'cs. 
 
 i.'ii 
 
 fl'li 
 ■ I, 
 
 Ml 
 
 
77/A" /'/•;. /A')' Riu.ii.i- h.xri-.nrriox. ,21 
 
 rmil this iiioiiKiil llic- t!i()iiL;]ils of (Ir]Mituri- tVoiii 
 Mi-Connick Hay on Ur' lioiiKwanl Iri]) liad liad iio ullur 
 than |ilt.-a>aiil associations, hiil now ilial llir Iioiir had 
 Conic- none coidd licl|) a feeling of rcj^rtt. 'I'liis feeling 
 was sliaii'd. as llu'ir actions brtraNcd, 1)\ tlu- nali\(.-s. 
 Instead of rnnnini^ al)ont lau;^liini^ and i-liatlcrini;, as 
 was tluir wont, tluy stood around in little i^^nuips, and 
 I'.ijna, llu- l)ri;.;lUcst and jollicst of the whole settli-imnt, 
 who had donned in honor of the occasion a dirt\ white 
 
 _ . shirt and an old 
 
 , - w.- t» 
 
 V si'. >'■'.•■'•• •■ .' ■* 
 
 coat i^uen Iiini 1)\ 
 
 .. one of the ]>arl\, 
 
 ''■5 
 
 -■"'. was forced to iiuai 
 
 , away more t han 
 
 -^^ ■ once to hide the 
 
 ■<\\ ^ 5- tears which L^iished 
 
 from his eyes in 
 
 spite <if hi-- elforts 
 
 to the eoiitraiA, 
 
 aiul he nlleled his 
 
 two I'hi'^lisli -eiitinces, "What's Av matlir wid >e," 
 
 audi " Wliat \e call him," with only ImIi" hi> u^n.il 
 
 aploiiih. 
 
 Perhaps one of the most loiichiii:,; incident-- of the 
 le,i\-e-takim; was u'.ien Ma;4ip^o, one ol the wnnieii, 
 called the onl\- married man on the relief pait\ into 
 her tiiiiic, and, with tears streamiii;,; down her face, 
 handed him t wo m iniatnii.' watei-hiickets iikkK nl seal- 
 skin, which she lironi^ht forth from under .i pile oi skins 
 

 
 422 
 
 /A' ./AV 1 1( SliAS. 
 
 'll' 
 
 ii' 
 
 i 
 
 on ilk- '^rnuiid, and iiiaiK' liiiii iiii(kr>lan(l i1k\' \\v\v for 
 liislwii ■' pickaniiinio "■ at ImiiU'. TIk- n.Uini i;it'l> <ii 
 lllillll)le> foi hiisrir and liil liltlr olio, 1io\vi.\l1-, 
 l)r iu;^Iil l)ai.'k llu- >niiK--, ami >ln.' wciil ruilli fioiii iIr- 
 lupic (.■xIiihitiiiL; lluiii lu ilu- ullur woiiKii, Ui llii.ii iii\\ 
 and i(.al(in.>\. 
 
 lU -and--l)\' a 1)oal luaxih lailii; Irfl llir >]iii) and was 
 I'liwi'd lti\vard> tlu' lidn.sr. All of llir " !!n>ki(.> " or 
 l'",>kiniii nun wxu' drawn np in liiu- nii llu' sIkhx- and 
 near !)\ >l(i(iil all tlir Wdnuii -axi- oiu — a cliild-wil'i' wlm 
 wa-> K'iiiL; ill in lu-r liqiir. WMu u llir Ixial Imu'lird ilu- 
 l.ind, .1 :^i'i.al sliiuil wi-ait ii]) fnini tlif nati\i.->, aiu' llu-ir 
 sniiiiw for onr L;iiinL; \ani>lu(l in>lanll\', Ua' luMprd np 
 in il \\\i"i.- kniiilloor piik'>, iron spt-ai' lu-ads, iron pot>, 
 spoons, sc'issor>, kniws, saw>, lialclicls, clcax'C'rs. .iiid 
 niaii\- ollu'r arlirk> lii^lik pri/A(l by llirni. Tlirir Jon- 
 was nnkoiindrd as iIkm.- tliiiii^s wviv di\-i(k-d anioiii; 
 tlKin, sliarr and ^liau- alike (.xcrjil. iIr- cliild-witV. who, 
 l)(.can>e.' slu- was sick, was llu- ixcipic-nl of nianx addi- 
 tional .uifls from iiidi\idnal nK'nil)i.rs of Uk- ]>arl\-. 
 TlKai kiriil. IVary cansrd lluir iicarK full cup of liappi- 
 nt>> to owrllow , 1)\- prL'sciiliiiL; iIk- mlirc si. llkaikiil with 
 thr Rrd Cliff Ilonst.-, on condition that lhc\- should not 
 tear il down that winter — a condition llu-\- rcadih' 
 agreed to. 
 
 At this point a shrill whistle from the Kih notified 
 the parties tm shore that the lionr for departure had 
 coiMi.', and with that nioincnt the evidences of ^rief on 
 the part of the natives were ai^aiii manifested and with 
 
1 HI: rh.AKY RIJ.IEI- l-.Xri-.ni riiW. 4j;, 
 
 rt'ildulilrd folTl.-. 'I'lu wllilr ]K()])Ic IKi Ir^^ Wi I r llK'Xul. 
 
 l\wi'\ one \v,i> >li,ils(.ii I)\ ilk- li.iiiil, ,111(1 lluii with 
 >li<iiU>(it laic- Will ilk iik!iilnr> III" tile Iv.M i Apidilimis 
 spr.ni^L; iiiti' ihr wailing; Ii<Mt aiiil wiii- rownl in llir 
 >liili. A W\\ iiiiiiuli.^ !ali.r >Ik- ^Itankd -^lowh oiu v.\ 
 ill" l>a\ with Ilk' Aimricai: tla'' llnaliii'' ai Iki iiia^llu ad 
 
 N Al'l\ I. W I iMA.N I i|- i.iiiill \\ N. 
 
 and lur wliistk- hlowiiiL; loi;dl\ and t > laliiiiion-U , and 
 siKin ilk- Kid Clilf IIdIIm- ladi-d niil nf >i,-Iil. 
 
 Jn>l al'Ur pa-sin.^; XnnliiinilKrland I>land, U ii niiU'> 
 suiilli of McCorniirk ]'.a\ , ilk IraxcK-r^ \\\n iiiadr 
 awaix- 1)\ Caplain rikr hew iln^i had he in llkii ixapr 
 lYoni brin^- compclk'd In sptiid llir wiiiUr in llir Arclic 
 rc\i;i()ii>, and tlir force of iIk' >kippi.r'> rcinaik ihal a da\ 
 
\^ 
 
 III 
 
 424 
 
 /N ARC in- SI-.AS. 
 
 »!■.. 
 
 \ 
 
 or Iwo''^ (Ula\ would lia\r luiii moii^li was painfully 
 c\ iikiit, for a i^n.il fn-ld of old irr i-i iiuiik-d toL;illn.r 
 with >oiiii^ ice- iK-arl} lliici- iiiclu-- lliick wa^ eu- 
 coiiiitt.-n(l. 
 
 ll had l)(.rii riofi-oot I K ilpiin"'- iiiliiilioii 011 Ua\iiiL', 
 MrConiiit'k r.a\ to >io|) at all llir iiali\r M'tlKninils 
 brlwnii llial ]>lacr and C.ipc' N'oik and disiriknk' the 
 j^ifts still rrnriiniiiL;, and to niakr siarch at Cajir \'ork 
 for till- iron mountain containing; llu- natiw iron which 
 the I '".^k i n los n>c to strike flic Iroui, hut ill is \ on ul; ii'c jmt 
 a (|nic-tn-- on tlu"-!.- ]ilan> and all ^pccd had tn hi' made 
 xmthward. Tlii Kih nittrcd Mclxilk- I'.a\ on the 
 afternoon of .\u^n>l J5, and in lifl\-(.'i^ht honi>> wa> 
 safel\- out of it, ha\iu^ met with uothinu; hut thin ?x\v\ 
 rotten ii.-e, throui^h which -he made her wa\ without 
 difllcnltw liefore pa'-^ini; the coid'iue^ of the l)a\, 
 howiAcr. the reliif i>art\ >ecureil what tlie nieinher-- hail 
 keen loni^ini^ tor tVom the nioUKiit the) intired Arctic 
 waters — a jiojar hiar. 
 
 When fu'sl sreii. tile aiiiiiial wa> not uiote than half a 
 mileawax, sitting on a larL;e cake of ice, lookiu'^ at tin- 
 \e»(.-k and >nch wa> the ciiriosil\' of the fooIi>h hea^t 
 that he allowed it to approach within a hnudred \ ard> 
 hefort- taking alarm ; llu-n he turned to make off. hut his 
 resolution caiiu- loo late. Ik- ran lor the water to inakt.' 
 u;(jod his esca]»e, and hail almost succeeded in reaching 
 till- cud of the cakt-, wluii tin.- ])arty fired at the word of 
 comniand, and lu- fell ]iierced h\ sc-wral bnllets. Ilis 
 vitalil) was siudi, liowiwr, that it reiiuired two or ll'.rco 
 
M 
 
 X 
 
 c 
 
 ^ 
 T 
 
' i JllLl 
 
 }W 
 
 'r 
 
riih: rEARY ri-.i //./■ h.xrr.niriox. 
 
 1-7 
 
 iiinn- sli()l> ti) t'(ii!i]ia^-^ Imn (Ualli ami s.ciiM- lui llu' 
 Acadciiiy of Xalinal ScirncL'^ a liiU' >kiii ami rmni^Ii 
 llir lal)k' 1)1' iIk- Kill willi IcmUi" biar sUaks. 
 
 lA'a\iu,L; Mflvilk- I!a\- llir A'/A ^Uaiiuil dirii'lK Ini 
 Wai^ali' Sliails, which Mi)aialrs DLskn Nlaml iVniii 
 (iri'i'iiland proper, ani\iii,L; lluri' on Au.mi^l x^). Sin- 
 sloppc-d at a place calKd Ataiukcrdlid^, wluri- a sum of 
 coal crops otil ahoul iidd Ucl al)o\c si.a li'\il which i> 
 reputed \'cr\ rich in fossils. A few hours' search scciind 
 for the expedition a nia.Ljiiificenl collection and tlu n the 
 k'ilr proceeded to ("iodha\n, wdlere sIk' arri\ ed tile next 
 niorniiiL:, Au'-ust ;ii. 
 
 The reception of the two expeditions at this pjae-e 
 
 was 
 
 as heart)- as couM he desired, and in the ewniii^ the y 
 atte'iidi'il a dance i^iveai 1)\ the ICskinios, where llu\' 
 waltzed and polkaed with the Ivskinio wonu n as 
 parlmrs. The affair took place in llu' ]arL;e \\i rkshdpuf 
 the settlement ; the sha\in:.;s, work henclus. etc., had 
 been pushed to one side to L^ive- plenl\ of space- Inr the 
 <lancers. 'I'liree tallow candles lit ii]) the- lodin faintly, 
 and Daiiie-l, tlie- f.iiilifiil iiili ; prete-r. who on ae-coiint of 
 his joiiriie-y iii.rth had becoim- .1 i^rt-at man at I)isko, was 
 
 llKlste-r ol ccrelllollles. 
 
 Wo iHldli-s .md an ,!i-coiuion 
 
 furnishe-d the- niusie', and llu- nimlile- fee-l of the- nali\e 
 wonie-n did the rest to iiifee't all with tlu- d.iiiciii;^ lliaili.;. 
 Most of the- airs p]a\e-d welc D.iiiish, lilil the- e-xploi'ers 
 were awake-iie-d to .istoiiishiiienl when \\\v\ heard the 
 familiar tiiiie- of " Money Musk," and wlu-n lau-r on the 
 l),.nd sndde!;l\ struck up " \'ankee I)o()dle"" the\ hroke 
 
Ik 
 
 H 
 
 42 
 
 2S 
 
 /.y ./A7 '//r s/-:as. 
 
 out iiilo |i;ilrii)Uc clu'i.r>. And lu-ir iIk\- wim- in ;i 
 laiul wlu-iT ni;in\- of lluir iVii'iid^ al liMiiir lnlii\i(l iIra' 
 wirr waiKU'riiiL; about in misery, lauclnjitd in fni's to 
 ki-f]) onl an nnrr^istiTablr dr^rc'r of rold, and (.■ itini; 
 hlubbrr and tallow oandK's to sustain litV, danfin^ .vitli 
 oprn windows, in tluir slp'rt-sli(.'\(.s, and with ])nit"nsi]\ 
 (KTspirin^' brows. 'I'lif coi.trasl bftwft n tlu- inia.L;inar\' 
 and lilt.' ri'al was c-\trinK-l\- hnniorous. Alkr tlir dancr 
 a dainty luncliron was >cr\rd at llu' liousi.- of tin.' in- 
 sptrtor of ( 'iodlia\ n. 
 
 ( )u Srptrnibfr I, tlir ])art\- badi- fari'.wll to tluir 
 iViiuds at ('iodlia\n, including- Daniel, who (.-anii'd out a 
 pri'viousK' (.■Npn-ssi'd intrntion "to much cr\ wlun ^!ii|) 
 ;4(>,"" and starti'd for ( iodthaab, thr capital of llu- .South- 
 ern Inspectorate of ( ireeiiland. 'I'he jourmy thither was 
 without si)i.'cial incident, saw one ; this was a splendid 
 (lispla\' of the aurora on the nij^ht of .Septeudur 2. It 
 bcf^an in the northwest and swi'i)t with mar\(.lous 
 rajiidily across the sky in a waNini;- luminon> clouil u[ 
 yellowish white, until it fornieil a ]ierfei'L arch, t'\- 
 tendin!4' tVoni horizon to horizon, and apparentK' o\ er- 
 ]iani;in,L; the ship. Imoui this arch shot out nnriad.-. of 
 white shafts, with here and tlure oni- of pink and of 
 re>l. Aft(.r a tiuK' it slowh faded awa\ , onI\ to reappear 
 in a new and e(iuall\ entdiantiui; form, when, starting 
 .li^ain in llu' northwot, ,iud t.akim; the s,mu- direction 
 as before, it assnnuil the torni of a .L;reat diaphanous 
 curtain, han,L;in;4 from the lieawns in r.ia:i\ ,u;raceful, 
 mo\iu:_; I'oIiN. Tlu' displax- lasted for hours. 
 
 i 
 
 Ifi'i, 
 
 n. 
 
::j<£Si.«„»ai 
 
 1 \l<l Wi I.I. I,, {-.Hl.isi.Wi,, 
 
 pM^I.V in tlu- n.nnnn^ tlu- AVa wa. aiK-au, .,< 
 
 ^ •^^^■'■^"^-"'-.rtlu.alni.Minnnnu.ral.K. i.Ian.U 
 "''"'"" "'^"^''^■-^^--^^"'S,.„tlK.,n(;n.n,Ian,l an.l 
 —...„, aru.,va.>c..lX...Snkkc.nnp. X.w Sukkc-n.p 
 "I I'-rtu-allv a ^l^.uUr n-ck risi,,, ,.,vn,,„..n.I v an,] 
 '''•■.o>i,K-,-puuI,VuknIv,nn,v,!,an,v.„, u,, .„,, ;,- j,,^. 
 
 --■■tsIn,h,K.ak,ui,I,sli,Iulvrn„n,K.,I...,.,,ivin..u. 
 
 stnknu:u.>cn.l.kMux.l,.aI,n^.M,.arl..ar.an.ll,.,:.H,,. , 
 Hn^uknap,,n,pnau.,u.s.„.tlu.nanu.. k..„,l, ,,,,1 .1.1- 
 '';:•" ^'" !''• — 'I-I--, it In.l.I. ,„iu. an,I.„. ,„ 
 :';'-''•• -i^i>-.lK-l in Dani.l: ..,]lnal k.n,na,c. .,f 
 I'-l^nno. ,n„n (;,..i,I,,,a!,. .X.,,- Snkknlnp i. ,,, ;,„ 
 
 '':"-^^'"' '•""'•"-■'^ ''-'■ A'vt.c navi.at,,,.. th,.„,,, „,., 
 
 ;u-tfr <.l till- (.■M.ist. 
 
 A ^•wl..Hn.kucrtlu.AyA ,,,nvc-l ..i]" , ;,.,it,,,,„,, ^ 
 l<^'iak.. p,u.„r,n.,n >In..v an,l ..„„. ah-.a,-! „, pi!,, lua 
 ''"•"".1. llK.,k.n.,cr..n..I,an,uIst,,.Iu. harhornr .f.ipV 
 
 ''--"• '"'^ '-'M inh.nnn,, lur pa»c.n^u>n,nll.K.n,iaIIv 
 ""' "'"' •"• ^'''- "'" i'-pnr,ancv wind, lu- p„,l,..h,v 
 
Ni: 
 
 430 
 
 IN ARC Ik SEAS. 
 
 sW 
 
 \: 
 
 (Ui'imd fUliii;^ llir ()^-c■a'^il'll. that Jicv voiilil iMt Ix.- 
 all.i\\(.(l to laii'l l)(.i'ati>i.- lit' till- I )aiiisli law. Tlu- liilaiit\ 
 wliit'Ii ;^Ri'li'(l \.\\\> ainioniUTiiunt (li>r(iiK'crti(l liiiii 
 not a liltif, l)iil tin- ama/(.iiK!il his farv i \1)rs>i(1 \va> 
 trul\' cmnical wlut;, mi n riiviiiL; ridlV^soi- I Kiijuiir.s 
 tTC'driitials, ihr ;^i iwrm r aail Iii> iiri\ati.' M.c-i'(.lai\ caiiu- 
 (111 hoard and wclcoiiu-d \\\v ]iarl\' in ihi- most cordial 
 iiiaii.Hr. 
 
 <iodtliaah, allhoii^li oiir of tlk- lana-st sfltlciiuaits of 
 South ( im-nlaud, is prrhaiis Ic^s known lo tlu' out^idr 
 World ;^riKraIl\ than an\ otlur placi- in the Arctic rcv.ioii>, 
 !)ciiiL; fir xmtli of the wlialiiii^ 'jrouiiils of the Xcw- 
 foundland whalers and ciitiix-ly out of lluar course. ( »i 
 the other hand it is main iiiilo aho\ e Ui^lnk, llu' oiih 
 otlur point ill (iieeiiland more or k-ss frcciueiitK x'isitcd 
 1)\ foreign \eSM.-'>, whii'li coiiie thin- for crvoliti'. 
 
 (ioilihaal) i> oiK- of the ohle^t settlements in(ii\-en- 
 laiul. Its hi>tor\ ,i;oe> hack nearl\ a thousand yi-ars. 
 when ,1 Xoi'se colon\ wa^ plauten a lew miles from the 
 |)n.'sent >ili- and tlourislK'd for a C(.'ntur\ or -d, until tlk- 
 coloiii:.t> wi're ixtei'ininated li\ a trihe of s.i\-a,L;cs. 
 '!'h<>i' sa\a;..;(.>, who are supposc-d 1)\- mam to ha\'e \wv\\ 
 the aiu-cstors of the prcM ut iiiotfeii>i\-e h'skinios, are lu- 
 lit\ed to lia\e collie owr iVoiu the American shore, which 
 llie\ prohaliK foUiiwed iiorthwar<l 'n Smith Sound, 
 where tlie\ crossed o\ cr to ( ireeiikind ; for tlu' U-Ljend is 
 that l!ie\- ciuie fioiu the North. In iheii c-.ircer they 
 killed ,dl and destroyi-il exi'ix M'sli-iof the Xorsciiun, 
 who, it is l)e!ie\-ed. Wen.- up to that liuK' the oiih 
 

 I: 
 
 
■/■///:• /vc.iA')' A7-: /.//■:/■- /■:.\7V-:/y/7V(\v 
 
 inlialiilauls of thai hltak inland coiitimiil. A U\v mil 
 
 i> 
 
 .f i! 
 
 ic .ih: 
 
 X(.i 
 
 SI- c(il()ii\, il 1^ >aiil, arc sliU slandiiii 
 
 sonu- iniU-s fn'tii 'lu' pivsciU town. 
 
 Till.' prrsc-iU Mllk'iiK-nl is ])k'asaiitl\ sitnatrd on tlu 
 
 • IL" 
 
 (.an tVoiil, and Iiarl)iiriil tVoiu iIr- lirrcx Arcli*.- >Imm 
 
 ll-^ 
 
 by llu- iiian\ i>laudN wliich skirl tin- cimm and r\Und in 
 nnuKTou^ t;rt>ni>s miuk niiks oiit iiiln llir ■^ta . Tlir 
 liarhnr i> hrliind llic ton^iU' <>[' land mi wliirli ihr lnwii 
 is siltuik-d, ill llir llord, Kiii.i; bclwiLU il and llu- main 
 
 coast. 
 It 
 
 \\a-> at this phu-' 
 
 tliat Xaii'^n 
 
 1 aiiM 111 
 
 -- (.'1 iiiijMnioiis 
 
 L'iiurL;rd iVoin the iidaiid \cv. alUr haviii:^ >n(.'n.»l"iilly 
 acct)iiil>li>h(. d the iVal, ik-\\t brlniv alkiiiptid, ol" i r<)»- 
 
 iii'" r.riTidand fniin cna^l loi-oasl, 
 
 Th 
 
 Ills was Ihi- (inl\- 
 
 itciirdi-d iiislano.' dI aii\' sxslriiialic rxpldratiiui <>! tin.- 
 U-nois iiTthr ie-i-cap iinlil ihi- pirrnniiaiicf \va> ontdniu- 
 1)\ till' siR~c't.»lnl cro-oiiiL; anil ixciossiiii; ->!" the sanu- in 
 inucli hi.^hcT hililii(k> 1)\- I.iiul. lVar\ and Mr. .\>tnij). 
 
 II; 
 
 i\iiiL; had a sliL;hl r\i)t.'rii.iKT i if ihr natiiir of ilial 
 
 whiti.- dt.M)lalion, \\c cmild \w\\ a])])T(.i'iali- thi Icilin,; of 
 R'lirf and jii\- (ksrrihrd h\ 
 
 \<iiis(.n whin \\' and hi-> 
 coiiiiianiDiis oiKX- au.iiii li-U ihr ^i>\\ l^R'i n ni()>-> ol' the 
 
 coast niukr their teet instead of the han 
 
 IroXeli 
 
 snow throu'.di whirTi tor ni.aii\- wtar\ week^ iht ■ had 
 
 )eeii tnid'-iii'. 
 
 How lhe\ rolkd in tile nins^ and 
 
 capered o\er its elastie -iirfaei like l)o\s jiist released 
 from school. It was at ( "■iHUhaah, tuo, that tlu Xaiiseii 
 
 parl\ wcr*.- olilimd to uinaiii i>\(. 
 
 r llu 
 
 winter I SS^ "Sii 
 
 h; 
 
 IVlll' 
 
 arn\e( 
 
 1 too late l< 
 
 in tile last ship t<n 
 
w 
 
 )lft. 
 
 'J; 
 
 lit 
 
 4.VJ 
 
 /N .lA'CT/C s/:,is. 
 
 Co|)(.'ulia;^rn . Al llir S'ludax "> <laiuc, wliicli llu' whole 
 jiarlv altrndid, \vr ■-aw llu- I'.^kiiuo iiiaiiUii wliosf lu-arl- 
 R'luliii}^ t'ar>.\V(.il iVdin nuv of Xau^cii's LapIaiuUrs, llu.- 
 joqiuicioiis Uallii, is so Iniiiioroiisly (k^fiihtd 1)\ that t-x- 
 plorcr. Slu' siiiiKil til lia\t.' (.iitiulN ireowivd in mi tin.- 
 (.•iTfCts of that ht'artaclu- and looked iiluiiip ami luallli\ , 
 atid Ikt lal, round and pivltx (aw was wivallifd in sniiKs. 
 
 Tlic stttk-nuiU has iiion- than 2i ») iiihahitanls, 
 all of whom, ixcrptiiiL; ihr Danish oflk-ial^, llu- vec- 
 tor ul" tin- church and tlu- diKtor. and ihiar rcs|)ccti\t.' 
 families, nw h^skinio^ or half-'irci'ds. The prcsiaicc of 
 the AVa in the little harbor hthind the town attracted 
 to the short' ])rol>al>l\ all of the ICskinios in the place, 
 and the men eanu' onl. darting alxmt hither and thither 
 in their ^racefnl kajaks, entertaining^ the voyagers with 
 exhibitions of tluir wonderfnl skill in harpoon and bird- 
 spear throwing;. 
 
 The marxclons de\terit\ of the I'.skinios of .Sonthern 
 (ireenland in the use of the kajak ii- a matter of i-oinnion 
 re])ort, bnt >ome of the feats allribnted to thiin seemed 
 so incredibk- that the j^ov i rnor. Mr. Il.inmann, was 
 api)ealed to b\ sonu- of the part\ as to the trntli of these 
 stories. ( fO\ernor lianmann .issiued tin m that tin \ were 
 not only true, but that tlieie were .inio.ii; till' ICskimos ou 
 board two of llu most skill fnl kajakerson tlu' co.ist, who 
 wotdd be i^lad to show tluir jnowess if iiu' \isiiors de- 
 sired to witness it. The otiir was L^ladly acci ])ted, md 
 the two men. t)\ direction if Mr. r.aumann, prepared for 
 action. The\ put on tluar se.ii-skin jackets .md j^loxes, 
 
 
77//-; nEARY RELIEF EXrElVTlON. 
 
 4.S5 
 
 and t\iii,n lluui in such a \va\- tlial llif\- wire watLTproof, 
 tlifv <;()l into tlu'ir Uajaks and |)a(l(llt.<l away. W'Ik'Ii 
 about a liundri'd yards from tlif ship thcx stopped and 
 OIK' of ihiiM slowly incliiK-d his body to tht- ri.^lit. As 
 Ik- did so, thf kajak rolled o\cr until it was bottom .side 
 up. I'or a second or two it rcniaiiK-d in this position, 
 and then it bc.^an slo\vl\ rollin,!^ a.^ain, and in another 
 second, with a llourish of his paddle, the kajaker had 
 rii^hted his craft and was wi])iny- the salt water from his 
 face and e\es. Meanwhile the other kajaker al>o oxer- 
 
 turned his boat and ri'-hted it, and did it nion 
 
 )\e!-, two 
 
 or three tiuK'S withotit stoppinj^, a])parentl\ , for bieath. 
 .\fter they had both repeated this performance nian\ 
 
 tun 
 
 es, o 
 
 ne of the kajakers turned his boat so that the 
 
 prow pointed towards thi' shi]), and then held it motion- 
 less. While he was doin,L; this the other backed olT a 
 few yards and then darted at the first with full s])eed. 
 An instant before he reached him he threw himself 
 slightly l)ackwar(l, raisin,!^ the bow of his boat, and it 
 sped rapidly and smoothly o\er the other and into the 
 water a^ain beyond. .\mid bursts of applause, they 
 returned to the ship, where, after diveslint; iheiusehes 
 of their water-proof garments, they were each rewarded 
 with a jack-knife, and were rei^aled, the t^oxenior per- 
 iniltiu!^, with a .^las^ of hot schnapps. 
 
 Soon after the- whole jjarty went ashore, and under the 
 (.guidance of Mr. liaumaun and Mr. Stexeiison, his yu- 
 vate secretarx , were- led o\er the rocks and marshes to 
 the little town, a mile- or more awaw Here the\- were 
 
 f 
 
4,V' 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 i' 
 
 \\ 
 
 !! 
 
 prcsc-ntfil to Iiis|K'cl()r , and after a sliort and 
 
 pleasant chat with this official, who, as well as ( ioxcr- 
 nor P.atnnann and their respective families, s])oke 
 Ivnj^lish llnently, the parly started on a tonrof the j)lace 
 nntil the honr for dinner, to which some had l)een 
 pressinj;l\' invited by the inspector and others 1)\- the 
 governor. 
 
 The most pretentions ri'sidence in the place is the 
 one in \vhich the inspector and his family dwell, and it, 
 as well as the homes of the other Danish residents, is 
 well kept, with j^rass-plols attached, and is snrronnded 
 1)\- neat fetices. At (iodthaab there is an entire ab- 
 sence of the povert\- so evident even at (iodhavn, and 
 still more so at ri)erna\ik. The one-stor\- honses of 
 the nati\es all present a neat appearance and are con- 
 strncted of frame, with the sides banked np with stones 
 and tnrf (rodthacd) also has a street, with two small 
 bnt neat l)rid_nes spanninj; streams which flow thron.^h 
 the villa.^e. .Some of the honses of ( iodthaab are 
 bnilt alon}^ this street, which, though narrow, is neatl\' 
 kept ; bnt <^a'nerall\- the bnildini^s, as in all other 
 (rreenland settlements, are scattered promiscnonsly 
 abont to the \'v^\\. and left, and are a]>proached by well- 
 worn paths running;- and crossing each other in every 
 direction. 
 
 The l^skimos of (iodthaab, nnlike their pajL^an kin- 
 dred at Cape York and beyond, profess Cliristianit\-. At 
 one end of the street jnst mentioned stands the church 
 with a tower and belfrw The chnrch has a fine toned 
 
I 
 
 M 1. 
 
 Nalinglnaraik tusanimin&sassuaik niiivk&t. 
 
 ^Oitnriri- 4. 
 
 IS3J. 
 
 I III a it : NAn«t>n-ip iUi'Jilo Nun: mo uki?ttiltutik RtigilA 
 Arncrr. — Kiniu;;*iii**i*«iirtut' oKtlu^tuat — rainAriilii>it 
 
 Ifansen-ip 
 
 ilaiulo NQngmc iikisitdl utik anga- 
 I a s.>< a r n c r e . 
 
 (•gdl; L. MCllrr.) 
 
 Siorns opornflma 1889 Atuagagdiiutit ilaisi- 
 gut Nanscn-ikiit si'mnTssiidkut ilinncti'T.it, fihir- 
 (oratko, CKirpungi Niingii)' ukisifdlniik ancala- 
 ssaraete sipitipkuiui tu^atilliiikiiuiArdlugit, Di;Ksi- 
 kilt nko sapiU.ndSjil rii.inf ukisitilutik aiipalas-ar- 
 oece oi<^iliid|jiiui:irtii.irpal>.i: 
 
 Siorn.ile Al'ia(;«u(lliiiliii(,'iit agiUiuligincKarfr- 
 pOK Naiiscn-o SvoMinip-ilD tiniiPidllutiji^siamitior- 
 mik mniatii.i\i>sinrsiinaviJliilik Au.cNB'Hip Kingua« 
 oil Numttnut piisut Orlflparip uvtluisa I'-ne. Ki- 
 ngornalo silarrlliigljrlors.sM>si)( ihj Nflnijinil iimi.il- 
 Bilmik umininigllo ui^Miuikit OrtOfarip I'J sila^'ig- 
 silcr.iiat ailsat likiupaii; taimaiie jjIc apingiiial- 
 dlarlOK . 
 
 NQngmut pigamik avalagfigssamiogaik erngi- 
 
 naK norKjiC'iliiaKaul, lvi:,'tiiiiul>ll) p1Mrlil,^i^'alua^• 
 put Fos-imiil« aiTKiiV'liutik, ukiWai'lUrnoralo pi- 
 SKMti^'alii^'O aiuiiiaiik:iri^niaiil< ukinliijl>>rpiit. Lki- 
 nialiTiarainik criiuitUK hajjnijjtitt-rput, sanileautc- 
 Karioatalo Kiiinatik ators!>JriarlOK piuinaisamiiignik 
 iiniartuinal'.'r['iit ; tupin^'naKaiiiillo sun^MiUsilcttu* 
 !iMis.°, ping.'irtuiiiik NaiiM'n ip Kajaw siiiii;iutilertor* 
 pi; tduiia erni.inar;'.'uj,ik sanilcKUl lei.ipoK. ilanc 
 Niiviiiii'aro niijarlulcra Kau^u< Asit SilarHiipiiiuna 
 Kllnrisoriijiig^irivJIiinil'), taiiiiaitnK asit Kujjrtnrtut 
 aul I:;i4.pul ; taimniiili) Ssit N,it:s.n-ip «.ijjrtortiit 
 iiialikai nnlcriii.iiilluno. L'vdIor'.iu.iK nSvlini;') or- 
 siiniinane K;iti>'r9iiairiaraiiii' a(,'iut apivos 9i;.'-^jiniil 
 at'dliit iiiAariK riildlunp; I'lniiliTsaK Kaj.uturtut ta- 
 iiuniiik tiktrariiula Nanaon-c kUiiiia tikiii;.'ilprp(iK: 
 hajirioiliit ilaisa ouanli^at uvJJuiildlugo noidlll a- 
 vaUne napisiinagaliiatdlu|.'o, kimuinaidle nivtailur* 
 viiarmiit «iin^MrloruK. TaiiiaR.iine iitarhili'rparpiit; 
 t.lrsinalctiiKit kUa iiiilaiiL'ili;!ilorpar[iil, nivlailar- 
 pal(1>JKiri;;iiial a'llillarr.^'vat'rusiigaliigo; avalntalo 
 nuoaluit ilaimt pi>Miia^>al.iaruno iljiannavi^ngiiig- 
 magil tikigtag3rlii|,'iria[iii|;it. 'l'Ar»ivi|:>lluii>I'> nit;- 
 j^ilcif'OK cnitjiiiaK niikissai,'lili'rllunp t-nlile er^siiigit- 
 sor^^'ivdluno; tami iiliii;;iiitt ilai<a tamavtihiiao i- 
 siimaluKili'KJrfiut; nOidlerout tikisoillugo tusarniar- 
 tikaluaraiiiikii taimak iichaiigilas, — 
 
 rciiliii,'iMKmal ilaisa uiDiaUslainik ujariartor'' 
 niarum^Tdlugo pikil«rput; pikivdiatik uuilauiaguar- 
 
 An I'^KlMip Nr.WM'Al'l.K - Kr.lmcd tiu ^iiiiilc ol .t iiiciiitlily |iiililii ;itiipii. ( dui .1 
 prilitril ;itlil imhli-lud in lllc l';>kiinn 1;iin;u:ini-, l)y Cliri-.tliill ll^kiiii'is at iloiit- 
 hiiali, S'liilli liiK iilaiiil. 
 
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 or.Ljau and a liaiidsoiiU' allai. Twn (Uiii)iiiiiiali(iii> wor- 
 ship luri' in lianuoin. l!u' ('iri'i'iilaiKli^Ii and llii' haiiisli. 
 'Plu' first, wliich holds siT\ict.' fntiii iiiur lo Uii o'lhuk on 
 Sunday nioruin.i^s, is alliMuk'd by ICskinios almost \vholl\ 
 and ])R'sidf(l o\ti hy a naliw priMrhir. wlm aUo dnrini; 
 ihf wiik watc'lifs caictulh o\i r iht' .s]iiiitual wrlfarr 
 of his lloi'k, and ha^ i-on>id(.ial)li' Imipoial authoiilN 
 vested in him h\ the inspfctoi. Thr Mi-ond mtx iir, 
 which is atlendid 1)\ all thr Hanish i\sidinl>, is ]iir- 
 si(K(l o\ ir 1)\ the nt'tof, and ht'i^ins an hour alli r llu- 
 first is o\».T. 
 
 Xo S(.T\ices ari' luld Snii(ki\ ia i.iiin^>, iIum' honis 
 l)i'in>j^ ^i\eii o\( r to a hall lu'ld in oiu- of llu workshops, 
 wlu'iv e\i.r\ Ivskinio man and woman, Miuni; ami old, 
 d.iiu-is to tlu' souikK of ,1 fiddlr with a luartiiuss of m- 
 joynunt whii'h is rtfrrshin.!^ to six-, and with a ^raci-- 
 fiiliK'ss and acrurai-^- iM" tinu- in tluir stt'ps whith would 
 l)f tMfditahlc in am (.-irv-li- of socic'tx' in our own cixil- 
 i/.i'd (.•onntr\. 
 
 ( lodlhaal) has also a niontliK iK'Wspaprr printid in tlu- 
 ICskinio lan<4-ua_m', thr pnhlishinij^, idilin.L; and t\pi'- 
 si'ttiuL; <pf whii'h is doiU' I)\- natiws. it is i-allid Aliia- 
 i^iixd/iii/i/ — said to imaii, " 'I'hal wliirh should hi- nad." 
 I'",ach numl)(.'r has lii^ht ]>a.!^is and is illustratid l)\ 
 wood-cuts, tlu- Work of natiw (.'nmax ers. It has a 
 widi' circulation, icaihiuL;, occasioualK , as t.ir north ,is 
 rpcrnaxik, and as fir south as Jnli.inshaal), 'fluri' is 
 also a ]>hoto!L;rai)h iLiallcry in the sittUniciit, owiu-d and 
 conducted 1)\- an Ivskinio, of whose skill an (.sample is 
 
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440 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 given in the view of Godthaab reproduced in this 
 vohune. Besides these evidences of civiHzation tliere 
 is a brewery, where a good quality of small beer is 
 brewed, a cooper shop and general store, such as is to 
 be found in all the settlements of the Danish possession. 
 
 At Godthaab the explorers saw for the first time since 
 their arrival in (ireenland some of our familiar domestic 
 animals. These were goats, chickens and pigeons. 
 The first roaniec' the hills and furnished the milk supply 
 of the settletUL-nt. and the latter have quarters assigned 
 them in sundrs cosy little barns erected for their housing 
 and for the storage of hay for the goats during the winter. 
 The Danish residents, while glad of being able to rear 
 goats successfully, yet bemoan the fact that the climate 
 is too severe and vegetation too sparse to allow them to 
 keep cows, these animals not thriving north of Julian- 
 shaab, near the southern limit of Greenland. 
 
 Within forty miles of Godthaab,on the cliffs bordering a 
 long deep fiord, where it is protected from the fierce winter 
 winds, the .Ibics orioitalis, a species of spruce, grows to 
 a height of eight or ten feet. This is its northern limit 
 in Greenland ; above this point there are no hard-wood 
 plants except dwarf-willows, dwarf-birches and a species 
 of huckleberry. As at everywhere else on the coast line, 
 however, other vegetation in the shape of mosses, grasses 
 and blooming plants abound during the summer months. 
 
 All of the white inhabitants of (lodthaab, the in- 
 spector and his family, the governor and his wife, the 
 lieutenant governor and family, the go- ernor's private 
 
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 THE PEARY RELIEE EXPEDITION. 
 
 443 
 
 secretary, besides the pastor of the Danisli cliurch 
 and liis family, and the doctor and his family, are i)e()ple 
 of the highest cnlture, speaking several languages 
 fluentl)', and each interested in some branch of science. 
 Those of the party who had been favored with an in\i- 
 tatiou to dine at the inspector's found in the person of 
 his accomplished wife a lady whose doings has been 
 chronicled in books of Arctic travel. vShe was one of 
 the two mentioned by Doctor Hayes in his book called 
 " The Land of Desolation" who accompanied that ex- 
 plorer on an alleged dangerous trip to the ice-cap on the 
 Island of Disko, near (iodhavn, where the two ladies 
 were then living. She is the mother now of .several 
 boys and a girl, the latter of whom is just budding 
 into a charming womanhood. 
 
 The evening was spent by the entire party at the hou.se 
 of the governor, where he and his wife entertained them 
 with the greatest possible cordiality. Just before her 
 guests departed Madam Raumann sang in English, and 
 with a sweet, sympathetic voice, the air of " Long, Long 
 Ago." Although the brave little woman smiled and 
 chatted merrily enough, there was something in her \oice 
 like a longing for home and the association of her kindred 
 which was touching, and when, after good nights had 
 been exchanged, the voyagers were being rowed by eight 
 sturdv Eskimos to their good ship, and they saw the 
 full moon .shedding her mild light over the silent waters 
 for the first time since leaving Xewfoundland on their 
 northward journey, many hearts echoed that slight, 
 
II'., 
 
 Vi 
 
 I ; 
 
 444 
 
 /N ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 scaicc'l\' perceptible tremor of homesickness betrayed by 
 the sinj^er. 
 
 The next day was Sunday, and many of the expedi- 
 tion attended divine services in the larj^e church. 
 IJefore its conchision the pastor made an address in 
 English and uttered thanksj^ivin<>- that the expedition 
 had passed safeh' through the perils of the far North, 
 praxed for the party's safe return to their homes in 
 America, and closed by reciting the Lord's Prayer. 
 
 The next morning, IMonday, September 5, the Kite 
 sailed away for vSt. Johns. Before leaving she was 
 taken from the snug little harbor and brought to the 
 ocean front in full view of the settlement. The houses 
 of the officials were decorated with bunting and flags 
 waved frcni every staff. Then after the departure of the 
 Danish ladies and gentlemen, who had come on board 
 to say their farewells, amid a volley of ordnance from 
 the shore, the Kite slowly started, replying vigorously to 
 the salutes with her little cannon, blowing her whistle 
 and dipping her colors, her passengers meanwhile vocif- 
 erously cheering. 
 
 The kajakers flitted about in the water and on the 
 shore the native women had assembled in their pictur- 
 esque holiday attire, and as the Kite steamed close by they 
 sang a sweet farewell song. The rich melody of this 
 air lingered in the hearts of the party long after 
 Greenland's rocky coast had faded in the distance, and it 
 touched them greatly. It was a beautiful finish to their 
 visit to the land which had been to them one long delight. 
 
 Ill 
 
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gUgigl 
 
 
 C H A P T Iv R X \' 1 1 I . 
 
 TiiK "KiTH's" r.irosT.— Thic Rktikn to St. Joir.NS. — Diu-aktikk 
 
 I-OR I'HII,AI)];i<PHI.\. — TlIIC TrUMPHAI, I'KOCKSSKiN II' THK 
 DKr.AWARK. — RKCEPTION HV Till' ACAOKMV OK NaTIRAi, 
 vSciKXCES. 
 
 A FICW hours after the Kite had bc<rtin her jotirncy 
 -^~^ to St, Johns, a j^ale arose wliich lasted for a 
 couple of days. It was not a severe one, however, and 
 only caused the revival of certain stories which some time 
 before had been in circulation amono;- the crew that the 
 Kite was haunted. The jrhost who it was claimed had 
 taken up his quarters on board ship was described as a 
 huskie, or male B!skimo, and appears to have boarded 
 the vessel some time durinir her voya<^e liack from 
 Smith Sound to ]\IcCormick Bay. He was first seen 
 by one of the sailors whose "trick "it was at the wheel, 
 and the wraith was described by the man as having 
 come gliding- aft and insisting on helping him steer. The 
 man declared that he was not afraid of the apparition, 
 which seized the spokes of the wheel like an old sailor 
 and generalh- permitted its motions to be guided bv the 
 living helmsman. Twice, however, when the latter 
 attempted to port, the ghost insisted on putting it hard 
 to starboard, and the sailor gave way. In both instances 
 it seems the sailor's acquiescence in the ghost's ai)i)arent 
 
 445 
 
B 
 
 446 
 
 /N ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 m 
 
 whim had l)ecn fortunate, for, as he soleninl\- affirmed, 
 each time had tlie lielm been ported, the Kite wouhl have 
 run into a lars^e iceberi;'. The huskie .L;host, ne\erthe- 
 less, was not al\va>s as useful as he seems to have been 
 on this occasion, but on the contrary was inclined to 
 niischievousuess, for various other members of the crew 
 declared that they had seen him dancing- in the most 
 
 THK I.AST ICKHICRG. 
 
 ridicidous and uu-Eskinio-like fashion on the casing of 
 the boiler. Often it happened, so the sailors said, that 
 boxes and barrels were thrown about the deck in the 
 greatest confusion without interference of any visible 
 natural agency, and when the sea was as smooth as a 
 mill pond, and one man swore that the ghost had once, 
 when field ice was all around the ship, clambered to the 
 
 ; 
 
 if 
 
•n 
 
 THE PEARY REIJEE EXPEPmON. 
 
 447 
 
 crow's nest, at the toj) of the foix-niast, ami signaled to 
 the man (jn watch to come down. 
 
 What re\'ived the stories of this ])iank-i)layin,^- huskie, 
 ho\ve\er, was that once, dnring' the i^ale, tlie fireman on 
 dnt\- had come on deck for a l)reath of air, leaving' the 
 furnace doors ti<,ditly shut and tlie steam at seventy 
 pounds iM'essnre. I'ive minutes later, on return in_u; to his 
 dut\-, he found one of the doors wide open and the steam 
 <;^au}^e lowered In' fifteen pounds. As the door coidd 
 only be opened by the exertion of considerable force and 
 stren,<j;th, and as no one had been near the jilace to do 
 this thin<4, the act was unanimously placed to the account 
 of til.' wraith by the whole crew. He was a .ijood, honest 
 l^host, however, and did not seriously molest anybody 
 and (generally appeared to keep "himself to himself," 
 so that after a while little or no notice was taken of him, 
 whereat, probably, the spook became disgusted and 
 deserted the ship. 
 
 On Sunday, September ii, we arrived at St. Johns. 
 It was piteous, the sight of the blackened, charred ruins 
 of that picturesque little city on the hillside. The 
 awful fire which had destroyed it had broken otit on July 
 8, three days after the sailing of the A'i/c for Arctic watens, 
 and raged until fully three-fourths of the place was laid 
 in ashes. The sight of its ruins was the first news we had 
 of the occurrence and there was deep anxiety expressed 
 by all on board for the crew, because many of them, 
 as well as some of the officers, had their homes in the 
 city. All, however, had escaped the calamit\- save two, 
 
11 
 
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 448 
 
 /.\' ARCT/C s/-:.is. 
 
 Larry Ilackc-tl, llir sttward, and Jolin Ciiiiniii.i^hain, one 
 1)1" the firt-'iiKn. Tlifsi- two fotuul i1k'\ had losl house and 
 hoiiK', their clothiii,!^- and housrhold ruriiiturc ; all they 
 I)ossessed in the world in fact, and that their families 
 had barely escajied with tlieir li\i.s. ( )n I.arry Ilaekett 
 partieularh' the blow fell hea\-ily, for not only was the 
 liouse he li\'ed in his own, but he is well ad\aneed in 
 years. 
 
 Hut the calamity which had fallen so hea\-ily on the 
 people of St. Johns did not prevent them from .nixing 
 the A'//t' and her passengers a ro\al reception. I'Mags 
 and bunting were run to the masthead of nearly e\ery 
 ship in the harbor, and the large crowds on the wharves 
 greeted her arrival with rousing cheers. Long before 
 she was brought to the wharf numbers of peoi^le had 
 come out in row-boats and boarded her. Then jolly old 
 Captain Pike learned, for the first time, the startling 
 news that he was dead, and Mr. Murpln' in command, 
 and the members of the two expeditions discovered that 
 the AVA' had been nipped in the ice and wrecked and 
 that they were having a hard time of it on the bleak 
 shores of Cireenland. The intelligence of the death 
 of Captain Pike had been brought to vSt. Johns 1)y 
 a Dundee whaler, and the other ])ieces of news came 
 from Halifax. The finding of Captain Pike still 
 in the flesh and directing the sturd\- old vessel in 
 safety homeward was therefore the occasion of great 
 joy and congratulation, for he is well beloved in St. 
 Johns. 
 
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77//-; PEARY REl.mr liXrEniTION. 
 
 45' 
 
 The lia]))))' return and disapproval i)f tlu' stories of 
 disaster prol)a1)ly heli)ed to influence the reach' con- 
 sent which the owners of the Kitr j^^ave to Professor 
 Ileilprin's request to take her to Philadelphia, and of 
 concludinj^ the voyaji^e there instead of at vSt. Jc^hns. 
 Immediately on j^aininjj;- this consent Professor Heil])rin 
 telejj^raphed the news to Mr. (iavin \V. Hart, of the 
 Peary Relief Committee of the Aoarlemy of Natural 
 Sciences and requested him to secure, if possible, free 
 wluirfaj^e. In less than four hours lliat j^aMitleman 
 wired a reply announciuj^ that Mr. Clement X. llrisccm, 
 President of the International Xavi^ai; .ti Company, 
 had j^enerously placed one of the couqjauy's wharves at 
 the disposal of the I\iU\ 
 
 By this time the news of the safe arrival of the ex- 
 peditious in St. Johns had been sent all over the United 
 States and Europe, and Professor Heilprin and I^ieut. 
 Peary, as well as every member of the two parties, were 
 flooded with telegrams of congratulation from relatives 
 and friends and people interested in the inulertakiug. 
 ^lany letters were found in St. Johns by the members of 
 the relief party which had been coming regularh- from 
 their folks at home, and these accumulations of news 
 were eagerly read by the recipients, their bright faces 
 showing the happiness their contents gave. 
 
 Two or three days were required to put on coal and 
 additional supplies for the ship before sailing, and these 
 days were fully occupied in attending the numerous in- 
 formal receptions and dinners given in honor of the 
 
ill' 
 
 452 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 i'> 
 
 
 sw 
 
 parties. It sctiiud almost as tli()U<;h tli'- jx-'oplc of St. 
 Johns liad filtered into a conspiracy to kill the re- 
 turned explorers with kindness and hospitalit)-, so that 
 it was well, perhaps, for the latter's relatives, that on 
 Wednesday afternoon, .September 14, the Kite was in 
 readiness to de]xii t. At fi>nr o'clock on that afternoon 
 the \-esscl left her wharf and was soon on the hea\-in,i;- 
 Atlantic steaminj;- at full speed for Philadelphia. I'or 
 twciity-fonr hours she made a good rnn, when a ron<j;-h 
 sea arose and she slackened her ])ace, and the next three 
 days the average was no more than fonr knots an hour, 
 which caused some of the Xewfonndland sailors to ex- 
 press the opinion that the .St. Johns girls were lu)lding 
 her back, and that the riiiladelphia girls had not 
 yet heard of her coining. IJx-and-b)-, however, the 
 sea went down and then the members of the exiieditioii 
 had their turn, and the\- jo\fnlly declared that the hearts 
 of the Philadelphia girls wt're now in their work and 
 were towing the ship with their sweethearts at right 
 good speed towards home. It is a pretty sentiment, 
 this sa\ing of the Xewfonndland sailors. 
 
 ( )n Thnrsdas' afternoon. .September 23, a pilot boat was 
 sighted and soon after, when fort\-lliree miles from the 
 Imnc P'atliom .Slioal light-ship, pilot II. \\. Church, of 
 boat Xo. 3, came- on board. ile congratulated all hands 
 on their retnrn and informed them that a rousing recep- 
 tion was being ])repared for them in I'hiladelphia. P>y 
 sixo' clock the P>reak\v.iter was leached. Ik re quarantine 
 officers came on board, and afli'r a short examination 
 
mm 
 
 mmmssssm 
 
 * I 
 
 Tim JUiARY Ri:i.Il-h- EXPI'.DITION. 4:^3 
 
 allowed lliL' xcssc'l to ])ri>cc(.(l. At this point the v()\- 
 ai^vrs had a foretaste of the .L^reetiii^- the\- were soon to 
 j^c't. As the Kile l)e^rln to nio\e ii[) the bay inion^ the 
 inan\- steam and sailin;;- craft the former he.i^ai' blowin.i;- 
 their whistles, and those on hoard the sailini:^ \-essels 
 their fo^- lu^nis, while lla.i^s were dipjjed in e\er\- direc- 
 tion. 'Pile Kill' resj)on(led rii^ht ,iL;allantly to each, and 
 it was a l)ns\- time for the men it the whistle and en- 
 si.i^n halyards for the next hour or two. 
 
 At three o'clock of the niornin,^- of the twent\-fonrth 
 tlie Kile arrived off Chester, where she la\- until da\ li,!L;ht, 
 ^vhen more quarantine officers came aboard and ,i;avc 
 permission to continue the \-o\a^e, at the same time 
 liandini^- Professor Ileilprin a telegram announcing the 
 coming- of a tu,^ to escort the returning; expedition to 
 Philadelphia. 
 
 As soon as the\- had learned that the expedition had 
 left vSt. Johns and was proceediuL; to Philadelphia the 
 members of the Academy of Natural .Sciences had be«;un 
 acti\-e preparations to accord it a proper reception. The 
 committee which had assisted Professor Ileilprin in 
 fitlin^L;- out the relief expedition secured the tn^;" l.illii' .1/. 
 (irn/iaiii, proi)osin,i;- to <;-o down the ri\er to nu'et the 
 /\'//(- innnediately upon recei\-in^' ann<inncenieut of her 
 arri\-al at tlie Iheakwater. The\- iu\ited about thirt\- 
 .quests, comprising;- the ofncer> of tlie academ\, the 
 members of the West (ireenlaud Ivxpedition, seveial of 
 the contributors to the relief fund and some of the 
 near(.>t relatues of tlie nturniuL; \'o\aL;(.rs, to accompanv 
 
0^-S5^S: 
 
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 11'^ 
 
 % 
 
 454 
 
 
 IN 
 
 ARCTIC 
 
 • SEAS 
 
 
 
 
 tliem. The police tu, 
 
 r Stok/ry 
 
 had l)een kindh 
 
 Pl 
 
 aced at 
 
 the 
 
 disposal of 
 
 the press for a 
 
 similar 
 
 purpose 
 
 by 
 
 Direc- 
 
 tor 
 
 of Public 
 
 SafetN 
 
 , Abraham ;\I. I 
 
 5eitler. 
 
 Tl 
 
 le A'ifr 
 
 was 
 
 reported 
 
 ate in 
 
 the evening of 
 
 September 
 
 23, too 
 
 late for her to 
 
 make 
 
 her landing that 
 
 night, but 
 
 shortly 
 
 after eight o'clock, on the following morning, tlr^ tugs 
 started from Walnut street wharf, and steamed down the 
 river. At twenty minutes past nine o'clock, when a short 
 distance below Lincoln I'ark, the Ki/c was seen coming 
 up the river in full holiday attire, her rigging gaily 
 trimmed with flags, and the American ensign floating 
 from the foremast, above the crow's nest. Her steam 
 whistle was keeping up an endless series of shrieks in 
 reply to the salutes from the numerous craft passing 
 down the stream to the sea. When the tugs came near 
 enough for those on board to recognize their friends a 
 cheer went up which echoed from shore to shore, and 
 then began an exchange of cries of welcome, of love and 
 joy between fathers and sons, and husbands and wives and 
 children. The Lil/ic M. (iraliaiti was brought to the 
 starboard side of the Kilv and made fast, and the first to 
 spring on board and run sobbing into the outstretched 
 arms of their father were the little daughters of the one 
 married man of the relief expedition. In a few moments 
 more the deck was covered with little groups of 
 the friends and kindred of the returned voyagers. 
 Mothers had their boys, sisters their brothers in fond 
 embrace, overflowing with thankfulness for their safe 
 retm-n. 
 
Hi 
 
 THE PEARY RELIEF EXPEDITION. 
 
 455 
 
 led 
 )ne 
 iits 
 of 
 rs. 
 lud 
 ,afe 
 
 Lieut, and Mrs. Peary and Professor Heilpriu had 
 stationed themselves aft, and the visitors crowded around 
 them with enthusiastic <;rectin}^-. 
 
 Meanwhile the police tu^i^; Stoklcy had been made fast 
 to the port side of the Kile, and thus escorted, the <iallant 
 little vessel continued her triumphant journey up the 
 
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 IiU. I', A. C'dOK. 
 
 river. Nois\' as was the welcome, the A7/<' bravely t;ave 
 back sound for sound. livery vessel that passed saluted. 
 Boat-whistles shrieked and tooted, fo.tr-horns were blown 
 and colors di])ped. On the shores locomotives and fic- 
 tory whistles joined the din, cannon boomed, sky-rockets 
 hissed and exploded, and the thousaiuls of peojile who 
 blackened the wharves tilled the air with their hurrah. 
 
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 45''' 
 
 /A^ ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 At length Pier 4/) was readied, and licre tlie excite- 
 ment which followed the nieetini^ of the tn<4-hoats below 
 Lincoln Park was renewed. A larj^e crowd of welconiin<; 
 friends who conlu not be acconnnodated on the 
 tu<;- were there waitinjr, and scarcely had the Kite been 
 made fast to the wharf when her deck was overrnn by 
 an enthnsiastic mnltitnde. Every detail of the A'itCs 
 appointments seemed of interest to them, they swarmed 
 into her little saloon, ])ee])ed into the forecastle ; her 
 sin<;nlar feature, the crow's nest, was an object of uni- 
 versal attracticMi, while Captain Pike was simply over- 
 whelmed with attentions. Then there were Arctic 
 costumes and the numerous other curiosities and 
 trophies to be inspected, and items of news to be 
 exchan<>;ed. Each member of the party had his own 
 interested audience ea<j^er to slather every po.ssible detail 
 of his late experiences, and it was not until far into the 
 afternoon that the exjilorers were able to get ashore and 
 speed away to their .several homes. 
 
 On the evening of September 28, the Academy of 
 Natural Sciences gave Lieut, and Mrs. Peary a recep- 
 tion, and included in the honor the other members of 
 the acadenn's (rreenland exploring expeditions and the 
 members of the relief expedition. 
 
 The hall was handsomely decorated with palms and 
 other plants, and here and there were trophies of the 
 numerous expeditions of the academy. In a prominent 
 position was placed the sled used by Lieut. Peary in his 
 1300-mile journey over the ice-cap to the northern 
 
 II- 
 
Kl\'AKn ASTRUP. 
 
■ ( 
 
 Ih 
 
 Mi 
 
 
 
 m 
 
THE PEARY RELIEE EX/>E/)/TION. 459 
 
 coast. At tlK' western end of tlie hall was a screen of 
 palms, with the silk Ha- carried by I.ient. Pearv to 
 Independence I5ay, planted before it. Dependinn- fn.ni 
 a pillar was the American ension carried by the k'//c 
 on the relief expedition. It bore these initials: 
 " P. R. K." 
 
 Nearly 1200 people, represcntin,!;^ every branch of 
 professional and bnsiness life, crowded into the library 
 hall, and when IJent. and Mrs. Peary reached the aca- 
 demy, they were met In- Dr. Samnel (;. Dixon, Chair- 
 man of the Sub-connnittee of the Reception Connnittce. 
 
 Dr. Dixon presented .Mrs. Pear>- with a bcantifnl 
 bnnch of American P,eaut\- roses. She was then 
 presented to General I. J. Wistar, the president of the 
 acadeniN-. Cienera! Wistar escorted .Mrs. Peary, fol- 
 lowed by Professor J. B. Hrinton and Dr. Dixon. :\Ir. 
 Cxavin W. Hart escorted Lieut. Peary, and (jther mem- 
 bers of the Reception Connnittee followed with Profes- 
 sor Heilprin and members of the Pear\- Relief Kxi)e- 
 dition. 
 
 Arrived at the end of the hall the part\- was met by 
 the lady mend)ers of the Reception Committee, with 
 Ivient. Peary's mother, and Mrs. Diebitsch and Miss 
 Diebitsch, Mrs. Pear\\s mother and sister. 
 
 Standino- beneath the fla- that had been unfurled 
 to the breezes of Independence Iia\- on Julv 4, i.Sg2, 
 Ivieut. Peary and his intrepid wife recei\ed the con- 
 gratulations which were showered upon them. Lieut. 
 Peary wore the full dress uniform of his rank, and 
 
IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 accejitfd the compliments with iK'coininjf modesty. Hut 
 Mrs. I'eary, in a gown of brocaded black satin, with 
 feather and lace trimmings, was the cynosnre for all 
 eyes. She carried the bunch of roses given her b\- Dr. 
 Dixon and was radiant with smiles, looking the pictin-e 
 of health and haiij^ness. 
 
 It was a most brilliant entertainment, a fitting close 
 to the most snccessfnl of the many exploring expedi- 
 tions into Arctic seas which have gone ont under the 
 anspices of the Academy of Xatnral Sciences. 
 
 
 ■;):: 
 
 !|i 
 
,:■ «,>l.««.-.->^-„..«.,. 
 
 APPENDIX I. 
 
 THE PEARY-VERHOEFF CORRESPONDEXCE, 
 
 and othkr mattkrs rklyatinc. to 
 John M. Vkrhoeik, thk Mishinc. Mkmhkr ok thk Pi-ary Xurth 
 
 GrEKNI.AND ICXI'KDITION. 
 
 A AIONCt the first to approach Lieut. Peary when the 
 -^~^ AV/r Iiad landed at her wharf at Philadelphia 
 was .Miss .Alattie Verhoeff, the sister of John M. \'er- 
 hoeff, the niissin<r mineralogist of the North (Greenland 
 Expedition. When Lieut. Peary saw her ai^proaching, 
 he took off his hat and bowed. In a moment IVIiss 
 Verhoeff had made her way to where the Lieutenant 
 stood, and .said : 
 
 "Lieutenant Peary, I want to ask you what has 
 become of my brother?" 
 
 "lam sorry to say," replied the Lieutenant, ''that 
 he is not on board the vessel. He did not return 
 with U.S." 
 
 " Rut where is he ?" asked the yomig lad)-. She was 
 very much excited and spoke in a dramatic manner. 
 Her relatives made an effort to soothe her, but .Miss 
 Verhoeff was determined to pursue her inquirv. The 
 Lieutenant gravely expressed his sorrow at the young 
 man's absence. 
 
 461 
 
 j 1 
 
IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 \l 
 
 !,l 
 
 
 '3 
 
 " Is that all yon can say to nic?" inquired Miss Ver- 
 hoelT, her voice qniverinjj^. 
 
 At this point her relatives spoke to her, assnrin>>; her 
 that evervthinj^ that conld l^e had been done for her 
 brother's safety, and snjj^jTcsted that a private interview 
 niiy^ht be ninch more satisfactory to her. After some 
 moments Miss Verhoeff was cpiieted, and consented to 
 arran.y;e for a later interview with Lient. Peary that 
 afternoon. 
 
 The re_y;ret over the probable loss of the yoinip^ man 
 — the only distrcssinj^ feature of the entire expedition, 
 from its settin<^ out in 1891 to its triumphant return — is 
 profound and universal, as is only natural, and it is 
 hei,ijhtened by the expressed belief of some of the 
 returning explorers of the possibility that he is still 
 amont>- the livinj^. Tlie opinion has even been ex- 
 pressed that the missinj^ man had purposely absented 
 himself when the time came for the departure of his com- 
 panions. The basis for this belief is very sliji^ht, but 
 in view of the j^eneral interest in the case, it has been 
 considered advisable to state it as far as can be. 
 
 It has indeed been hinted, on what foundation of fact 
 may not be known, that ]\Ir. Verhoeff was di.ssatisfied 
 with the part assio^ned to him in the expedition. The 
 fact of his not having been invited to accompany Lieut. 
 Peary on his overland journey is said to have been a sore 
 disappointment to him. It is alleged that he had de- 
 termined to remain behind and carry on an exploration 
 on his own account, and fearing that he would be forced 
 
TIIR PEARY RELIEF EXPEDITION. 
 
 463 
 
 to accompany the expedition homeward, and his ])nr- 
 pose thus be frustrated, he kept himself in concealment 
 until it had sailed. These are, however, mere matters 
 of rumor and conjecture.* 
 
 All that can be su)>stantiated is that Mr. \'er- 
 lioefF did inquire of one (.r more of the party whether 
 it was likely that Lieut. Peary would permit any of the 
 members of the expedition to stay if they chose to do 
 so, and had received the reply that under no circum- 
 stances would the conunander consent to such a pro- 
 posal. It seems also that Mr. VerhoefT was constantly 
 practicinjj^ to inure himself to the rigorous climate of 
 North Greenland. In the first part of this volume the 
 story is related how he swam from the vessel to the shore 
 throu<j^h icy water. When tlie Kite met the whaleboat 
 containinjj^ Dr. Cook and Messrs. (iibson and VerhoefT at 
 the entrance to McCormick Ray, the latter was the only 
 one of the three who was not dressed in the seal- and 
 reindeer-skin clothin<;;^ supposed to be indispensable in 
 the hii^h Arctic reji^ions. Readers of this volume will 
 also recall his feat of successfully crossin<2^ the danger- 
 ous glacier at the head of McCormick Bay in midwinter. 
 It is also recounted by his companions that he sought to 
 accustom himself to Eskimo ways of living, and that 
 he was the only member of the expedition who suc- 
 ceeded in overcoming a white man's repugnance against 
 Arctic diet. 
 
 *Mr. VerhoefT. from all accounts, seeiucil pei (ectly content and niiicli interested 
 in his work as mineralogist and inttioroIoKist, and manifested no anxiety to be one 
 of the party on the trip across the inland ice. 
 
IN ARCTIC SILIS. 
 
 \[ 
 
 r, 
 
 I 
 
 UIIkt instances of liis (ktirinincd ciicrj^y and ;i rhar- 
 actcristic tciiacitv of purpose- in ovcrconiinj^^ obstacles 
 are cited 1)\- .i <4entleinan who was his intimate at N'ale 
 Collej^a'. 
 
 "John M. N'erhoefT," sa\s this informant, "was the 
 most determined chap I ever saw. Ilis nature woiUd 
 brook no obstacle in the wa\- of anythiuji^ he nuule up 
 his mind to do. I'hysicalh' he was splendidly e(|nip])ed 
 for any hardshi]). He was one of the stroui^est fellows 
 who ever attended Yale, juid was in jicrfect traininj;- all 
 the time. At rumiinjf, jiunpiu'^, wrestlinj^-, boxing, or 
 any jMirsuit which involved <^reat strenjjjth of body and 
 pluck he was amonjj; the first. 
 
 "Mentally, too, he was a j^enius. He was always 
 busyinj^ himself with .some difficult i)roblem, and the 
 boys at collc<^e all thonj^ht he was beyond the ordinary 
 in intelli.i,a'nce. He was popular, althon<,di \er>- peculiar 
 and in some respects eccentric. 
 
 " I will ,u;ive you a few instances which show how 
 determined he was, and how he would do what he .set 
 out to do, no matter what happened to ju'event. On one 
 occasion he started from New London to ride to Louis- 
 ville on his bicvcle. He was one of the best lonu-dis- 
 tance riders this country ever turned out. Xo one 
 heard of him for a month. Then his uncle in Louis- 
 ville received a letter from him dated froni^ .some hamlet 
 in Viro;inia. vSub.sequent inquiries developed that he 
 was set upon by a hutj^e bulldo<j while leaninj>- over a 
 ptnup in the yard of a farm-hou.se and torn up by the 
 
riih: ri'iARY rei.ii.i' r.xni-.nri ion. 
 
 •if'.S 
 
 Ihow 
 
 set 
 
 one 
 
 )uis- 
 
 •dis- 
 
 OllC 
 
 ;mis- 
 Imlet 
 |t lie 
 K-r a 
 the 
 
 aniiiKil in tt-rribk' fashion, lli' had lain down iheiv for 
 two weeks unahle In write. When hi- wasahle to lra\el 
 he finished the joniney. 
 
 " ( )ne of ihi' htsl instances of WiIkhIT's detennin- 
 alitin was one winter while he was at eollej^e. He was 
 one of a nnmherof hoys thai li\ed in a \\'\\^\ lhree-slor\- 
 house near a enl in the railroad. Dnrinj^ the hli/./anl 
 in >hireh, iSSS, the snow had drifted in this cnl niilil it 
 
 was as 
 
 liiuh as the roof of the honse. V'erhoelT made 
 
 IS 
 
 \va,^er that he co'.dd jninp into the drift and make h 
 wa\ onl alone. Il was accepted, and he i)lnnL;ed out of 
 si.y;ht in the soft snow. lie was nnder so Itm^ that llie' 
 l)o\s thon.ii.^ht he must he smothered, and, allei' hard 
 work, the\- (hiiu hini ont. WrhoelT was the nmsl hijL;hI\ 
 enra.i^ed man when rescued you e\er saw. He ^aid \w 
 could ha\e aecom])lished what he tried lo do if he had 
 been let alone. I le was determined to ])erforui llu.' feat, 
 hut his com])anions would not allow il. !')>• tlie next 
 da\- the snow had blown out of the cut, and \'erh 
 
 oe: 
 
 d th 
 
 f 
 
 )lish 
 
 was denied tiie pleasure oi accomi)iisinn]H' nis danni^ 
 e.\])loit." 
 
 Xo attempt is made in this ])lace to draw any conclu- 
 si(jns or do more than state the facts known and 
 oi)inions expressed which may lielj) explain the feelin*^ 
 
 )f tl 
 
 lose wlio hellexe 
 
 tl 
 
 le Nonn<'- man 
 
 to be still ali\e. 
 
 The story of the search for the niissiuj^^ mend)er of the 
 part\' is related fnll\- in its a]-)propriate chapter in the 
 body of this volume. After the search was «j;iven ni), a 
 certificate was drawn up and sijj^ned by Cai)tain Pike and 
 
 30 
 
 v 
 
M' 
 
 f 1 
 
 I' 
 
 llu' lirst oiliriT of tlir A'/A , wliit'li has lain U'prodiU'i'd 
 and is L^i\(.n Iicrrwilli. 
 
 At tlir coiK'lnsioii (if lur iiikr\ii\v with Kinil. Peary, 
 «)ii which ()(-casi(in the xmhiim ]:u]\ was at'coiiipaiiiid 1)\' 
 luriiiudt', ihr l\i'\. A. \\". KtiL^wiii, Miss Wrhdi If assiirrd 
 Liiail. I\ar\ thai shr was sati-.tU'il that tArrythin^ had 
 Iktii doiu' that was in ihrii' ])(iwri-, Ixitli h\- liis own 
 I)art\' and llu' partNof \'vt>l. I Iiil]iriii, Id tiiid hir iiiissiiiL;- 
 1)n>thri-. 'I'hr saiiir asMiraiUT was L;i\rii h\ hrr uiick-. 
 
 liiilh n\ iIk'iu, howt'xrr, prrsist in tlicir lirliff that 
 \'(.'rh(H'l"r is still ali\r, and if^ard llu' prdofs of his drath 
 as inroiudusiw. 
 
 TIr' Ki.\-. Mr. Kti ',win, wlun .s])()krn to on thr snl)- 
 jt'Ct slioilK- atU'V llu' nu'i-tin^, .said : 
 
 " I was wry nmch inipiissrd with nu inlcrvifw with 
 Lieut. lVar\-, and am t'on\ ini-fd that hr did all that was 
 in hnnian power to lind Wrhoitf; and while he 1)(.'lie\ed 
 tlial he was lost. \et Ik inL^ aware that there were nieni- 
 bcrs of the parl\' who thoui;ht otlurwisi.', he i^ave the 
 case the hiaietit of the donht, and left ani])le provisions 
 for his subsistence for eighteen months. 
 
 " .\s he e\])resseil it, ' there was one chance in a thou- 
 sand that, lu' niinht l)e alixi-,' and he acted as if that one 
 chance mi^ht fall to Wrhoeff 
 
 " Lieut. I'eary said that Mr. WrhoelT was one of the 
 most conscientious men he had ewr known, and, kuow- 
 iii<.j hiui as such, thon^^ht that if it liad l)een his inten- 
 tion to liaxe remained hehind in the Arctic regions he 
 would liave told him or some of the iiart\-, and tlius 
 
 'hi 
 
as 
 
 •^••©TincAiE^r^cARai roRVcRnGErC'<- 
 
 
 
 
 iccc^ 
 
 
 
 ^v^' 
 

 ¥ 
 
iienaitiam 
 
 TffE PEA R Y RELIEF EXPEDITION. 469 
 
 spared tlicin tlie trouble of the searcli. lie acknowl- 
 edo-ed that several members of the ])art\- had told liiiu 
 that Verhoeff had inquired the probability of Peary allow- 
 in,^- any of the party who wished to to remain in (Green- 
 land. Every one of them told Verhoeff that they thonght 
 that Peary wonld under no consideration permit it. 
 
 '' He asserted that Verhoeff was the only member of 
 the jxartN- who was capable of niakin.^- nieteorolo<;ical 
 investi.o;ations at Red Cliff House in a scientific and satis- 
 factory manner, and that he had left him behind when 
 he had oone on the northern expedition on that account." 
 
 The followino- interestin.": letter was sent b\- Mr. \'er- 
 hoeff's uncle to the author at the moment of L^oin*>- to 
 jiress : 
 I)K. R. X. Khki.v, Jr. 
 
 Ihar Sir : — luiclosed please find all the letters that 
 we have of Verhoeff, with a letter to you personalh- from 
 .Aliss V. 
 
 Verhoeff was not " ra-1. " or " foolhardy." He care- 
 fulh- worked himself up to points that would be to others 
 rash to undertake. P)Ut he had a very larye amount of 
 caution, and lurcr J'aihit because he knew jx'rfectly well 
 what he could accomplish and what to lea\e. 
 
 I suppose \-ouwill sa\- sometliino- about his remaining- 
 in (rreenland. We do not ask you to take our view, but 
 we ask you to consider our reasons for holdin,";- it, and 
 then state \our own, l)ased on a fair consideration.* 
 
 * Tlif aiitlicir (loi's iiDl feil i'.-|IU(l Miimi to ilisfiiss this i|iu-tii)ii. It siiiii-. ,|inle 
 siifiicitiil to liiiii to i)ristiit tlu- viiw- 1,1 Mi Wiliocirs rt iMtivts. ;i> Kiviii iii tlie 
 al)ovi' cli';ir , -11111 loictrul kllii . k. N. K.. Jr. 
 
4? 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 It ina\' involve a .qrcat deal to \'. wlictlKi" he is 
 believed dead or alive : 
 
 First. — We do not wish the public to think that he 
 played an unmanly trick in hidin_i;- out. It would not 
 be fair to the part\" if he had done so without o\er- 
 
 I 
 
 .Stcoiid. — It nia\' be necessary to send an (.'xpedition for 
 hini. ( )f course we could not do so alone, and the belief 
 that heisdcad would stand in the wa>- of secnriu.^' funds. 
 
 Iliini. — I am confident that if his life is spared, he will 
 settle fore\er tlie Arctic ])rol)leni, and I do not want his 
 report invalidated by an\- wrou^ impressions of his 
 character. He was ne\er known to tell a falsehood 
 from earliest childhood. He was ver\' conscientious. 
 lie was fair in all his dealin,t;s. He had two eccentricities 
 (the only two I know of ). He would never accept a fax'or. 
 He would visit nowhere, because he alwa\s wanted to 
 ixi\- his wa\-, and pa\' for exerythin^- he recei\ed. 
 
 I-oiir/fi. — He ne\er seemed to think that it made an\- 
 dilTerence to an\' one where he was. He would ^o and 
 come without informing;- any one of his uioxenients. 
 Knowiii}; him, as we do, we know that this was due to 
 a self-depreciation and modesty that was uatixe to his 
 character. He never boasted of any achievi.'ment, and 
 ne\-er seemed to care whether any one praised or blamed 
 him. He rareh' sjioke of himself. 
 
 Now for the reasons jiro and con for belicvint;' him 
 dead. The only reason in favor oi this belief is he was 
 not found. 
 
 \ 
 
 
k 
 
 i 
 
 
 i 
 
 THE PEAR Y RELIEF EX/'E/UT/ON. 471 
 
 1. TIr' footsteps seen were tar tVoiii any (lan.^erons 
 point, and cannot be considered ; besides llie ex'ident baste 
 of tlie leader of tbe rebef cxjiecHtion to return wonld 
 disconnt any sucli e\-idence. Xow pnt a<;ainst tbis 
 Verbocff's lifc-lon<^ desire to .^o as far nortli as possible ; 
 bis years of preparation and bis bein,!;- left in camp wben 
 Lient. Pear\- went nortb. 
 
 2. His efforts from tbe first to adapt bis life to tbe 
 customs of tbe nati\es. 
 
 3. His askinj^' if any one would 1)e allowed to remain 
 wben tbe ])arty returned. 
 
 4. His ori,i(inal '.KJtificatiou to Lieut. Pear\-. tbat be 
 would <^et Lv-/ (ireenland if be bad to _<;i) on a v.-baler. 
 
 5. His apparent indifference about i^oin.i; nortb with 
 tlic ioiiniiaiidcr of tbe expedition. Xo one of tbe party 
 beard bini complain tbat be w;is left bebiud. 
 
 6. His returninji;- after fue bours' absence to (piiet 
 Gib.son's apprebensions, m case be tailed to return for 
 four or five da\s. 
 
 7. His leaviu!^- bis trunk unlocked wben be went on 
 tbe expediti- ii to In.^lcfield (lulf witb Lieut. I'ear\-. 
 
 8. His kee])in,o- witb bini (probabh- secretin,;;- near tbe 
 Red Cliff cam]i) e\-er\- nuinoraudum book, all orii^iual 
 memoranda of obser\"ations of temperatures, tides, etc.; 
 all bis instruments tbat were in ^ockI condition, and 
 leavin<2^ only tbosc broken ar dauia_^;e(l. 
 
 9. His leaving- in bis room at Red ClifTonh- tbe clotb- 
 inj; tbat was absolutely wortbless, and liidiuL; out se\end 
 suits tbat were ^'ood, togetber witb all bis underwear. 
 

 472 
 
 LY ARCTIC SKAS. 
 
 \ 
 
 These reasons, taken in connection witli liis thoron.^h 
 atliletic traininj^ and his character already mentioned 
 (which makes him an ideal explorer, thoron<;hly 
 indilTerent to hardship, and, if Non please, indiiTerent 
 as to the time of his absence), make iIk- proha- 
 bilit\- of his beinj^- alive at the time the A'/Vr saik'd 
 overwhelminii^ ; cAcn make it a certainty. 
 
 There will be a difference of opinion, of course, as to 
 vvliether he was justified in his condnct. One tiling'- 
 nnist be considered. lie did his work well and faitli- 
 fidly to the day when the exi)edition closed its explora- 
 tions. He certainly was excusable if he declined to 
 grace the trinmphal procession on its retnrn. He made 
 no contract to retnrn with the part\". It is only a ])re- 
 snmi)tion that a)i\' oiw icould :ris/i to return. /A' did 
 )i >/ wish to, and, as a free man, had a ri.t^ht to remain. 
 Four members of the party j^-ave their opinion that the 
 leader would o)i)/p</ 'a\\ the members to retnrn with him. 
 \'. disputed his rij^ht to do so and took the onl\- way to 
 prevent an arbitrary act by hidin*^ out. I think e\ery 
 intellijL^ent and high-minded American will justify him 
 
 in what he did. 
 
 Respectfully Nours, 
 
 U'iiiiiiii,ot<ui, n,/.. (h/. 6, /Sgj. A. X. Kiucwrx. 
 
 Wir.MixoTox, I)i:i.. , Oct. 12, '92. 
 Dr. Kkki.y. 
 
 Dear Sir : — Your recjuest for photo<i^raph was received 
 per mail. Yesterday the onl\- copy in our possession 
 
 ,' i 
 
 : 
 i 
 
iMM 
 
 TlfE PEARY RELIEF EXPEnrnON. 
 
 47;^ 
 
 [ 
 
 was forwarded to you. It is the c()])\ tuuiid in Wrliocd's 
 trunk when it caini.' 1)ack to ns from ( nvcnland, and \w 
 prize it very \\v^\\\\ on that aeeonnt. Unt we eould not 
 have sent one, if we liad not taken tliis, witliout j^^reat 
 dekiy, as other eopies would liave to eonie from Xew 
 Haven or Louisville. .Ma\- I ask that it he eared for 
 and returned when sou are tln-ou,^]! with it. 
 
 Yours respectful])-, 
 
 A. X. Ki'icwix. 
 
 TH1<: VERHOKFK-IM<:.\R V C( )RRk:SP( )XI)k: XCIC. 
 
 434 (ioi.Di'.N (;.\Ti-, .\\i.;., 
 S.w I'RAxci.sco, Cm.., March 16, 1S91. 
 LiKfT. Roi'.'T I<:. Pkarv, Philadeljihia, Pa. 
 
 /har .SV/- .•— Vesterda.N- I read in tlic Taconia IWcklv 
 Xc'a's the announcement of your proposed attempt to 
 reacli the Pole. Would like to accomixin\- you, fullv 
 realizing that the chances may be nine out of ten that I 
 would never return. 
 
 Am unmarried, twenty-five years of a,-;e, and no one 
 dependent on me for .support. If you decide not to have 
 me with you, do not take the troul)le to answer, hut 
 treat this letter as confidential, thou.s^h you may have 
 received many others similar. 
 
 However, if you think favoral)l\- you can take the 
 time to read the remainder of the letter, which treats of 
 my qualifications. 
 
 Yours respectfully, 
 
 (Si.i,nied) Jxo. M. N'krhoi-.i.f. 
 
 i| 
 

 474 
 
 IN ARCTIC SKAS. 
 
 % 
 
 434 {i()i.i)i:\ (iATM Avi':., 
 ,Sa.\ I'rancisco, Cai.., A])iil 13, 'qt. 
 Lii'TT. Roii'T \\. l*i;Akv, r. S. Xavv Yard, 
 Phihuk-lphia, Pa. 
 
 Dear Sir : — Your letU-i of tlu' fourth * jnsl rc- 
 cci\ccl. 
 
 Would cxjiL'ct no R'tuni cxccjit llic- kuowkd'^i- and cx- 
 ]K'ric'UC(.' wliicli I would ."^^ain and for which J haw Kjus^ 
 had a (k'sirc. 
 
 IIa\'f for SOUR- liuic thou.^ht of t;oiu,^- in a whaler to 
 the northern rei^^ious as a ])re]xiration, thou,iL;h I ha\-e 
 not as yet done so. 
 
 Can j:,a) several days without nourishnient and can en- 
 dure as severe cold as an average man. As an instance, 
 December i, 1890, at Portland, ()r., I swam across the 
 Willamette River and back in sixteen and a half minutes, 
 the temperature of the w.iter beint^- 7^ C. or 44 ' ... V. 
 Have usualK' had <;()od habits and can abstain fnun the 
 use of licjuors and tobacco. 
 
 vSpent several \'ears at an eastern university, and 
 think I could be of material assistance to \-ou in xour 
 trii^ononietrical calculations and determination of mine- 
 rals by blowpipe anahsis. 
 
 Can walk fort\- miles per day on an a\-era<4^e road, and 
 have walked sixty; find no trouble sleepinj^- out of doors. 
 Can do as nnich nuunial labor as an avera,L;e man, but 
 m\- heij^ht, five feet four inches, and youthful a])pear- 
 ance usual h' belie me. 
 
 *Mr. VirluKlT's rclMtivcs li:ivi- tlnis liir liccn iiiial>le In discovrr llu'- kltir. 
 
 f 
 
 %. l\\:\ 
 
I 
 
 JOHN M. \ I.KIKM-.l-l-, 
 
']( 
 
 '♦' 
 
 ii 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 f 
 
THE I'EAR ) ' REIJEF EXPEDJ TJON. 177 
 
 If yoii arc willinj^ that I shoulil i^o, would (.'xpti't lo 
 
 occupy the position of a subordinate to a sn[K'ri()r ofTiccr. 
 
 If, as the i)a]H'r sa\s, you start in May, there will l)c 
 
 little time to settle business matters and prepare, so if 
 
 you decide favorably please tele<;raj)li at my expense. 
 
 RespectfulK', 
 (Si.t^nied) Jxn. M. \'i:i<ii( )i:i-i'. 
 
 
 
 434 (ioi.Di'.N (lATr; A\i;. 
 Sax 1m-:ancisc(), Cai.., April 14, iS()i. 
 Iji;rT. Koh't IC. Pi;akv, I'.vS. Xav>' Yard, 
 Philadelphia, Pa. 
 /)((V Sir: — Your letter of the sexeuth ■ reeeixed. 
 Would sa\- that I should anticijiate no nluru exeejtt 
 the experience which I would .^aiu, and for which I 
 Ikivc louj^- had a desire, as staled in m\- fnst klUr. 
 
 The sum I offered to hel]) defray the ex-peuses of the 
 tri]> will, I think, show m\- desire for an opporlunil\- of 
 reachiu!^ the northern coast of (ireenland and ni\ ^ood 
 faith, and would defrax' the extra expenses of the 
 su])plies. 
 
 The nione\- was not offered simjily for the ]U'ivile,ne 
 of beinj^ a member of your ])arty, ihoui^h I ha\e that 
 desire, and I would retract the offer and would not wi^h 
 to t^o if it was used for an\' other jjurposc. 
 
 RespectfulK', 
 (Sit,nie(l) J'Mix M. \'i:rii()i:1'1'. 
 
 ♦This litkr is iilsn iiussiiiL; fnun tlic i-ni ri-piiiKliiui' ;ni(l iciulil 11..I In- f.nnil. 
 
47« 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 W 
 
 'IMu' iK\i two followiii.n ate copies of iclt'jfrains rc- 
 cfivfd hy Wiiioiff from I.icul. l'car\ : 
 
 [Daliil I.LMj^iK' Islainl N:i\y N'.inl. ] 
 /HI >r T* . April 2(), I Sen. 
 
 4,Vt<''. <'■ A\(.'., vSan I"raiicisco, Cal. 
 
 If Noujoin pally ami coiilrihiiU' Iwo tliousaiul dollars, 
 
 can rliarkT special wsscl to W'liaK' Soiiiid. I-'ulI cridil 
 
 will hr ^i\cu your assislaucr. If .salisfai'lor\ , wire 
 
 Ivusterii rtlVrc'iices. 
 
 (Si-iK(l) R. IC. Pi;.\uv. 
 
 \ 
 
 [Datnl .W'W r.cdfnnl. Mass.] 
 To J.\(i. M. N'l'UlK )i:i'l\ 7(.) Seeond .Si., I.ouisville, Ky. 
 I'Apedilioii sails from N\w York about June 5. I 
 shall he in New York after May 3. 
 
 (Sii^ued) R. v.. l'i;.\kv. 
 
 \ 
 
 I' 
 
 I'iiii..\. Ac.\i>i:.Mv oi" X.x'iTRAi, Scii;nci;.s, 
 
 Loc.w vSor.vKi', Ma_\- 3, iScji. 
 Jxo. M. \'i:i^ii()i;i>i". 
 
 DiivSir: — \'onr letters and lelou^rams are all safely 
 to hand, and I think (.•\erylhin.L;- is .satisfactory, if one 
 point is clearl\- understood by you, namelx,, that \dnr 
 contrilnition, generous as it is, cannot entitle you to an\- 
 sliare in the niana.i^i'Uirnt o; control of the e.\])edition. 
 This must, in the \erv n-.ture of the case, rest ab.so- 
 lutel\- with nie. 
 
 As I wired you, your assistance will receive all credit, 
 and 1 shall endeavor to make things pleasant for you. 
 
7 ///: /'/•;./ A' ) ■ Ri:i. II-: I- F.xri-ii v iion. 179 
 
 If. as I ,L;allKr from Miiir Kutrs, your si)ri'iall\- is 
 niiiit.Talo.n\-, I shall assJMii iln' sliuK of thai luancli, ami 
 ptihaps .L^xolo.i^y, lo you. 
 
 Thi' uicinhcTs of thr partv will all br \(.un- liki- 
 \-oursclf, -auk'iUs and (.•uthusia>l> ; and not our, uiih 
 Ilk' exception of ni\- coloud man, that 1 would lusilaU' 
 to accept as a I'ouipauiou in v\vx\ scusi- ol" ilu- woid. 
 
 I iK) not know liow familiar you ma\- he with the 
 details of the project, hut the enclosed elippiu-s will 
 post \-ou. 
 
 I think \-ou need anticipate little or no pirxuial ri>k, 
 hnt \()U can look forward to au\- amount of hard work. 
 1 do not think of an\' sjjccial ]iriparatious that nou neid 
 to make hefore coming' Ivisl. 
 
 1 would su,^,t;est xour blowpipe outfit, and siudi items 
 ol traveler's outfit as you may desirt' to pro\ide for 
 xonrself. Tersoiial outfit will cost nou xiuu' SS" ; this 
 yon can obtain here. All other outfit will be furnished, 
 includin.n- i'''l<^'' liniitin,^- knife, oilskins, rubber blankets, 
 sleepinj^- ])a}4S, etc., etc. 
 
 'J'he expedition will start about the first of June. .\ 
 Week will l)e ample time for \our jireparatious here, 
 unless you wish to .see .something- of this part of the 
 country. 
 
 I will ask >-ou to .send me, at >-onr earliest con\-enii-nce 
 (as a part of the records of the party), a cabinet->i/e 
 bust photo of yourself, that you would not object to be 
 published; a physician's certificate as to >our phxsic.d 
 soundness, and two or three first-cla.ss references. 
 
48o 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS 
 
 i'^ 
 
 When you coiiu' Ivist, I woiiUl su.i;,l;vsI cither the- 
 Astor House, New \'ork, (ir the Lafayelle Hotel, IMiila- 
 (leljihia, as a point of arri\al. 
 
 If \<)U wire nie when nou will arri\e at either one, I 
 will meet \()U there. 
 
 \'ery trul\, 
 (Si-nu(l) K. I-:. 1'i;akv, V. .S. X. 
 
 I , 
 
 k 
 
 Ol- I' 1 C I A I. OR I)1-:RS. 
 
 North Ok::i:\i..\.\"i> I-'xi'iiditiox ni' iS()i-'92. 
 k. 1",. 1'i:akv, r. S. Navy. 
 
 Ri;i) Ci.ii'i' Horsi',, 
 
 XoK'rn ('.Ki:i;\i..\Ni), August ii, 1S91. 
 
 Si)- : — Von arc herel)\- (IesiL;nale(l as .Mineraloj^isl and 
 
 Meteorologist of the North (ireenland l'!\])(.'(lition of 
 
 iS()i-"(;2. and in this eai)aeil\- nou will make e\-erv 
 
 effort to obtain all the specimens and strata neccssar\- to 
 
 make your work of lasting scientific \alue. 
 
 Von will report to me monthly in wriliui^ the results 
 
 of \()nr work. 
 
 \'ery rcsixctfulh , 
 
 (vSioned) R. \\. 1*i:ai<V, 
 
 ( 'oiiniiiiiuliii^ I'. \ N'ditio)t. 
 
 J.\i). M. \'i:kii()i:i1'. 
 
 Ri;i) Ci.ii'i' Hoi'si';, 
 Xok'ni (iKi',i;\i.Axi>, Ani^ust 12, iS(ji. 
 Sir: — Duriu!:;- the absence of the boat c.\])editi()n nou 
 will make as complete a miucraloj^ical and to])o^ra])liical 
 
o 
 
 TflE PEARY REI.IEI- EXPEDITIOX. 4S1 
 
 cxaiuiiialidii of localiliLS vi>itc(l as ])t)ssil)k' and, w licn- 
 c'VcT praclicahlc, (il)taiii with compass and aniToid a care- 
 ful vertical cross .section normal to the shore exlendini;- 
 iVom the water lex'el to the crest of the cliffs. 
 
 Von will also keep a general record of the weather 
 and on your leturn submit the same to me, together 
 with your cross sections and a written report of \()ur 
 
 work. 
 
 \'er\- respectful] >•, 
 
 (Si.nned) R. \\. i'i:.\Kv, 
 
 I 'oiiniiaiiiliiiii- -^ ■ (•'ricnhrin! F.a pcditio)!. 
 
 J\(). M. \'i;kiu)i:i'i'. 
 
 15 
 
 :il 
 
1l' 
 
 11. 
 
 APPENDIX II 
 
 %l 
 
 LIKUT. PKARV'S REPORT. 
 
 Till'; SciicNTiFic Rksi'IXS ok Tuic IvxrEDiTiON. — Important Cox- 
 ci.isioNS I)i:i)i;ci:i) i'rom Data anm) OusiiKVATioNS. — A Re- 
 viicw OK I'RKvious Arctic Ivxi'i.oration'. 
 
 Ar the rej^iilar mcctinjj of tlic Academy of Natural 
 vScieiices on Tuesday cveiiin*(, November i, 1892, 
 Lieut. Peary presented his official report upon the North 
 Greenland Kxpedition of i89i-'92. 
 
 After the preliminary business of the meetinj;- had been 
 transacted, Lieut. Peary was announced and j^reeted with 
 applause as he arose. 
 
 He bei^an with a iirief restnne of the incidents of the 
 voya<;e of the AVA' from Ihooklyn, whence she sailed on 
 June C), 1 89 1, tmtil Jul)- 29, when she steamed away 
 from McCormick l>a>'. 
 
 " rufortuuately/' said the explorer, " I broke my lei;, 
 reuderinj; it useless for a lous.;- time. Thus helpless, I 
 was carried ashore at MeCormick Ikiy on July 27, 1891. 
 Strapped to a ])lauk I was taken Jo a ])()int where I could 
 suiurintend the construction of winter (puu'ters. These 
 were in native fashion, of course, with snow founda- 
 tion and a single entrance for door, window and e\er\' 
 outlet. 
 
 > 
 
 ! I 
 
 i 
 
"■ '• ■ r'r "ffurif-i irmUMiiitMiaa 
 
 77^5- PEAR Y RELIEF EXPEDITION. 4S3 
 
 "P.y Au.irnst 12, tlie house whicli was to slielter tlie 
 party was about completed. From tliis time until Octo- 
 ber 26, when the loujr winter nis;ht be.i,-au, several short 
 expeditious were made by various members of the jxa'ty 
 in order to obtain provisions and other supplies. One 
 of these, led by (libsou, was to the " looueries " of Hak- 
 luyt Island, where a large number of birds were secured. 
 He was al.so conuni,s.sioned to vi.sit the Nehelumie .settle- 
 ment and induce one of the natives to return with him 
 to McCormick Bay, it beinor .suppo.sed that the a.s.si.stance 
 of an Eskimo hunter would be invaluable in the chase 
 of the game peculiar to this region. 
 
 "There were also seal, deer and walrus hunts and 
 reconnois.sances of the neighborhood. A total of thirt\-- 
 one deer were secured before the siui disappeared." 
 
 The futile attempts of Astrup, Crilxson and WrhoefT to 
 establish an autnnni advance depot of supplies at the 
 southeast angle of Humboldt (rlacier, which were pre- 
 vented by the condition of the snow, received brief 
 notice. 
 
 "Red CHIT House," said Lieut. Peary, "was at a 
 jioint within half a degree, or thirty miles, of the latitude 
 where \.\\q Jccoiiii'tlr foundered and sank. 
 
 " Our situation there during that long and dark winter 
 was comfortable ; in fact, very euj<)\al)Ie. When I 
 arose in the morning the first thing tliat reached ni\- 
 ears was a laugh. The last thing heard in the exening 
 when all lay down to slee]-), except the watcher whose 
 duty it was to guard us, was a laugh. ( )ur amusements 
 
IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 
 \ 
 
 were not incivh- such as coiivfrsalion and crude recrea- 
 tion could supplw The nati\es \-isited us, and we learned 
 instructive and aniusin<;- thin!;;s without end as to their 
 way of life and pursuit. Thanks.nivin.y^ and Christmas 
 were properly ol)served, so that the time passed i)leas- 
 antly and (piickly. 
 
 "Ahout the middle of I'ehrnarN- the sun returned, 
 acconi])anied by a storm of wind and rain. Iluntini; 
 parties were a.t;ain or!:;ani/.ed in INhuch, and ten more 
 deer obtained. .\.n e])ideniic of the t;rippe attacked the 
 part\- durinj.;; this month, and several of the natives 
 sufTcred also. 
 
 "On .\pril iS we started for a round of visits amon^; 
 our neii^hbors. I can say that e\ery mend)er of the 
 tribes up there is a personal friend and acijuaintance of 
 mir.e. The hap]n- disposition of the ])eo])le, their frank- 
 ness and L^ood nature, and the hap]">\' incidents connected 
 with the \-isits we paid them, ke])t us in constant miod 
 humor. 
 
 " In this itinerary, in which Mrs. Peary acconi]ianied 
 me, we explored the recesses of In^lefield (lulf. ( >\er 
 thirls- .glaciers, ten of them of the first tnas^nitude, were 
 discovered and named." 
 
 In comnientin,!^ on this, the rejiort says that it is 
 doubtful whether an\' other known re,L,'-ion sho.vs .glacial 
 ])henomena in such nias^nitnde and varietw 
 
 The report recounts the difTiculty of transportiujL;- the 
 supplies for the proposed journey northward to the edije 
 of the true inland ice, fifteen miles awa\-. W'rhoelT, the 
 
 fi 
 
m 
 
 Tim PEARY REIJF.F EX PI-: PIT ION. 4S5 
 
 report said, was left at Red ClilT House to cuntiniie 
 his iiR'teoroIo.^ical and tidal observations, in wliieli lie 
 had become very nuieh interested. The true inland ice 
 was not reached until May 14, and the actna: start on 
 the same northward was not made until Max- i ,s- 
 
 The course and the events of the journey were then 
 brieflv described. The return jonrne\- over the inland 
 ice was resumed on Jul\- S. I'or two weeks its direction 
 lav over the oreat central ice plateau, at an avera,i;e ele- 
 vation of about 8000 feet, cloud-capi)ed and deep with 
 snow. 
 
 "At last, on An.^ust 5," continued Lieut. I'earv, "in 
 coniin.i; over the profde of a towerin,L;- snow mound, I 
 can->e ui)on I'rofessor lleilprin and the relief ])art\. T(> 
 this ,lav it remains a m\ster>- to me how he and they 
 were able to ,t;et as far as they did un])ro\ ided with the 
 snow-shoes and implements we possessed." 
 
 The report then continued : 
 
 "The scientific results of the expedition nia\- be 
 brieflv snmmari/.ed as follows :— .\mon,<; the i^fo^raphi- 
 c;d results mav be mentioned the delineation of the 
 unknown shores of Iiij^lefield (lulf and the iniperfectlv 
 known shores of Whale vSound, the delineation of the 
 northern extension of the ,L,n-eat Greenland ice-caj) and 
 the determination of the northern limit of the main 
 (ireenland mass ; the existence of detaclKd ice-free land- 
 masses of less extent to the northward ; the rajiid coii- 
 ver<;ence of the (ireenland shores above the seventv- 
 ei<,dith parallel ; the determination of the relief of an 
 
4.S6 
 
 IN ARl tic Sh'.AS. 
 
 h 
 
 t 
 
 exceptionally larjj;-c area of the inland ici', and the discov- 
 ery of a larjj;-e nnmber of <;laciers of the first niaj^nitnde. 
 
 ''The j;eolo<^ical results are comprised in the addition 
 to onr kno\vled.L;;e of the inland ice, fnrnishin^i;- \alnable 
 data to oiu' nnderstandinj^ of the .t;reat ice a,<;e, and the 
 lari,a' series of \-ie\vs . lu.winj;- the physical characteristics 
 of the ice-free land Ijotli in the north and abont Whale 
 Sound and In.nlefield Cnilf, which will be placed in the 
 hands of the acadein\-. 
 
 '' The results of the ethnological, niineralo.i;ical, bo- 
 tanical. oriiitho!o;^icaI an ^ meteorological inxeslii^atious 
 ;<AU ■ . obser\'ati(-)ns are also connnriided lo ihc 
 ac, (i>. iw;. 
 
 "'IN) Wrhoeff, the intrepid \(nin<;' man wlio con- 
 tribute': ) li...-i.dl\- of his means to the financial success 
 of the expedition, is due an inistiuted measure of praise, 
 not onl\' for his generous financial assistance to the 
 enterprise, but for his absor])iu,i;- interest and ])ains- 
 takiuL; work in the field of nieleorolo^icai and tidal 
 ol)Ser\'ations entrusted to him. 
 
 "The meteorolo,L;ical and lidal obserx'ations taken by 
 Wrhoeff are anioiit;- the most complete ewr taken in the 
 Arctic regions, and transcend, I am persuaded, in result 
 and real \alue the record of an\' ])re\-ious work in this 
 line. Von are all familiar with some of the circum- 
 stances connected with his taking; off < )n the \er\ 
 morniii!.;- of his disapi^earance wc' stt out on his track. 
 The scientific si)eciniens he had gathered in his walk 
 were found l)\ us, and he was traced 1)\ his foolstips to 
 
THE PEAR Y RELIEF EXPEIV TION. ^87 
 
 tlic fdnv t)f ;i ck'ft in a lowcTino- j^'-lacirr. 'riuu he was 
 oivcu lip afUT careful searcli in cvi.r> diuctiou mack- 
 fu'rlhcr cfiurt futile. 
 
 " Referrino- to the (.■tlinolo^ical ivsulls, Dr. Cook has 
 secured a complete census of the Smith vSonnd Ivskinios, 
 with important data and pholo,nrai)hs of seventx -fi\e of 
 them. Tliis material will, I feel, contribute .^reatK to 
 answeriuo-, and perha])s answer, the (juestion, ^Whence 
 came this pet)i)le?' The man\- and \alual)le tni])hies 
 he collected will, in due time, lorm part of tlie acadeni\- 
 collection. 
 
 "To Astru]), my (()m])anion on the inland jouniex-, is 
 due a special debt of t^ratitude. A bo\- in a])])earance 
 and hardh- more than a l)o\- in >ears. he showed the ^rit 
 and had the endurance of a man, and his Iiapp\- disposi- 
 tion and cheerful alacrity were a jiexer failin- comfort 
 on the loui;, tedious march aeri>>s the ice. 
 
 •'('ribson, our ornitlioloMi.st, and \\\\ U'.-m l)o\ Matt 
 had the connnission to see that tlu' parl\- had euou-h to 
 eat. This they accomplished with -reat endit to ihem- 
 seh'es. In this couneelion pailindar ac-knouled^nient 
 is due to C.ibsou, who was indeed the Xinirdd ot us all. 
 vSlronn- and active, notliin-- daunted liim. and with t'cpial 
 coura.^e 1k' faced ]iri\-alion and personal lisk. 
 
 " M\- boy Malt, wlio prowd almost as exptrl in the 
 use of the .^un, merits liit^h i-ommendation when it is 
 remend)ered that he belongs to a race sup])osed to be ill 
 adapte<l lor the eiulurance ol exti-enie cold, and that when 
 he went north with us Ik left behind a nouu" bride. 
 
4S.S 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 Ii» 
 
 I'.. 
 
 n 1 
 
 k 
 
 ''As <;c-iR-ral conclusiDUS of llir work of the- c-.\])L'(li- 
 tioii, I frc'l justiric'd in slaliiiL; lliat iIr- inland ice- of 
 (irccnland, l)ct\wcii the ,sr\cnty-c'i^lith and fi,t;hl\-- 
 sccond parallels, i'^ identical in characteristics with the 
 inland ice nnder the seventieth parallel, east of Disko 
 Iiay ; that the j^real .glaciers of the northern and north- 
 western fiords ha\e all the external featnres indicatin,i;- 
 resistless force and liiiL^h \elocit\- common to the .glaciers 
 of Disko I>av and Oinenak .Sonnd, as well as those of 
 Injrleficld (inlf ; that under normal conditions the wind 
 of the ,i;reat ice-cap is al\va\s blowin,^ from the interior 
 outward and downward perpendicular to the t;eneral 
 trend of the coast ; that the a<;enc\- of tlie wind, cease- 
 lessl\' hurrviu<;- the snow from the interior to the 
 coast land ribbon, wdiere it can melt, nmst now be 
 placed on a par with the a.^ency of s^lacial e\'aporation 
 and sub-!:;lacial licinefaction in all discussions as to 
 the causes which tend to balance the animal precii)ita- 
 tiou and pre\-ent the rapid increase of the interior 
 ice-cap. 
 
 " In re>;ard to the methods, equipments and other 
 questions bearing- upon future Arctic work, in m\- 
 opinion the North (ireenland Ivxpedition has slu)wn 
 that an itinerar\- of a journe\- upon the inland ice ma\- 
 l)e followed with nearly the ]>recision with which frei<;ht 
 trains are run on railroads, and Professor Heilprin's 
 \-ova!L;e shows that the leuj^tli of the trip from here 
 to Whale Sound can be calculated almost to a day. 
 Further, it has been demonstrated that two or three 
 
 !!■ 
 
 II 
 
tmti^t iumtmn>iiinfp>* 
 
 ,.J..U!l,-X- i JJiJ ! 
 
 If 
 
 ■ ;. 
 
 T///- rE.iA')' Ri-:i.ii:i- /■:.\/'/-/)/77(hv. 4s., 
 
 Wt.'ll-(.'quii)])i'(l iiK'ii can roiniiiaiKl aii\ pail of llir coast 
 of r,rcc-nlaii(l from the inliTior. "' 
 
 A Ri-:\ii;w (II- pRiAiors Akci'k: Ivxi'i'.Drnoxs. 
 
 Of the value and iniiiortancc of polar exploration, 
 
 there can now he ncj (|Ueslion, althon^h the i)o]inlar 
 
 notion that its ohjcct should be the atlainin^- of the 
 
 hi<;hest possible point, or e\-en of the- Xorth I'olc itself, 
 
 is wide of the mark. Its trne objects are scientific, the 
 
 obser\ations of nieteoroloj^ical and niai^netic phenomena, 
 
 and !^eo^ra]ihical, h\-dro,^rai)hic, .^eolo.y^ical and etlnuj- 
 
 lo.^ical studies. The ascertaiuinj^- of the exact location 
 
 and the period and rani^a- of oscillation of the nia<.,nietic 
 
 Pole is a matter of sujierlative importance ; the (^a'o.^raph- 
 
 ical Xorth Pole has, R)r science, no greater si^niificauce 
 
 than any other point on the earth's surface. The 
 
 chimera of an open Polar vSea beyond the ice-barrier has 
 
 lon.o- since lost the few believers in it which it ever had, 
 
 and the audition to reach this mythical .sea, and the 
 
 pure spirit of adventure which has made "a dash upon 
 
 the Pole" its ultimate object, have lon.i; ceased to be the 
 
 moti\-es of the undertakers of explorations into Arctic 
 
 regions. 
 
 Indeed, these motives, which have played so important 
 a part in the polar enterprises of the ])rescnt centurv, 
 were alto.gether forei.gn to and unknown to the earlier 
 explorers. 
 
 PassinsT the abortive attempts in the tenth centurv of 
 our era, of that turl)tdent barbarian, I{ric the Red. at 
 establishino; colonies in (ireenland, without eularoin*' 
 
49" 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 m'-^ 
 
 'h^ 
 
 \ 
 
 1/ 
 
 upon iIk' half-niytliical \'o\-a>fL'S of lla- XorsLiiRU from 
 Iceland lo the coasts of Xorth America, ox the >lill 
 deeper nnslcry of the \-oya_;j^e in the fourteenth century 
 of Xiccolo Zeno, a \'enetian noljleman, into the north 
 seas, tlie first authentic Arctic explorations were l)orn of 
 the connnercial needs of tliL' northern maritime nations 
 — the Dutch, the Danes, and alxne all, (jf the I'<n_i;iisli. 
 The voya<4CS of the earlier disco\erers of the sixtt-cntli 
 and seventeenth centuries, of Travis, (jf Hudson, of 
 PjafTni, and man)' others, were all undertaken primarily 
 in the interest of commerce. 
 
 Wlu-n it was found that thr American continent lay 
 stretcned, an unbroken l)arrier, in the wa\- of a west- 
 eriui; course to the co\'eted Indies, and the two .^atLwax'S 
 thither, the one around the Cape of (lood Hope and 
 the other throui^h the .Strait of Ma.^ellan, were l)arred 
 and jealoush' guarded by the I'ortti.miese on the one 
 hand and the vS])a'iiar(ls on the otiier, it became a matter 
 of the highest moment to the other commercial powers 
 of ICurope to find a wa\ amnnd tin.' obstrnctint; conti- 
 nent of America which minht !)(.■ used free of Sjxinish 
 or Portujj^cse interference. To seek such a one in a 
 northwesterl)' direction was the most obvious solution. 
 
 The vo\a,!nes of iM'obisher in I57r)and 157S established 
 the fact that there were two or more wide openiui^s on the 
 American coast, leadin,i; westward, between latitudes 
 60° and 63", but what he supj^osed to h.ave been a part 
 ol' the " Ivngronelant," or (ireenland, of the map of 
 Xiccolo Zeno, and what he called " Meta Inco,i;nita," 
 
 I 
 
Till- PEAR Y RELIEF EXPE/U770N. 491 
 
 was ivally a part of ihf western shore of iIr- W.rih 
 Aniericaii continent. Greenland he certainly never saw. 
 Jolm Davis, wlio made the next attempt to (h'scov-T 
 a northwi'sterl)- passa-e, was one of the most scientific 
 seal. ..'n of his time. He made tliree vo>a-es in three 
 snccessive \ ears, aided and fitted ont hy William San- 
 derson and other merchants. Sailin-- from Dartniontl: 
 the seventh of June, i^S^, he was the first to visit the 
 west coast of (Greenland snhseqnent to the abandonment 
 of the Xorse colonics. He called it the •• Land <;f 
 Desolation." He discovered (nlltert's Sonnd (where now 
 stands the Danish settlement of ( '.odthaal.), and then 
 crossin,-,^ the strait which hears his name he traced a 
 portion of .\merica's western shore. In his second 
 voya-e Davis noted what he calls -a fnrions overfall,"' 
 which was tile tide Ih.win.L;- into Hiidsoirs .Sirail ; and 
 ill Iiis third voya-e, in i^sS;, he advanced farnphisown 
 strait and reached a loft\- oraniic island in ;_> p' 
 X., which he named Sanderson's Hope. He considered 
 th.it there was no -ood hope of ad\-aiiciii- farther, and 
 ivjiorted "no ice towards the north, hut a oiv;it sea, 
 live, lar-e, ver\- salt and blue, and of an iiii>eai\-lial)!e 
 depth." He found it impossible to reconcile his dis- 
 coveries witii tIiere])orts(,f I'robislier and the Zeiio map, 
 ar.d in 1^95 he piiblis'ied a tract, entitled '> The World's 
 IIy<lro-Taphical Description," in which Ik- ably states 
 the arL;-niiieiit in favor of a iiortlnvest p-: .aae. 
 
 The Iviin-lish enterprises were continued b\- the Mus- 
 covy Company and by associations of i)atri.jtic merchants 
 
492 
 
 /N ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 m 
 
 '»!•!. 
 
 
 i)f London, and nndcr the- auspices of llu' fonnrr notable 
 work in polar discowry was done 1)_\- IIc'nr\- Ilndson. 
 On his i'ir>l \dya,L;r, in I'^x)-, lie discoveu'd the until 
 recently most nortlnTn known point of tlu' east eoast of 
 <ireenland in 73^ X., named "Mold with Hope," a 
 examined the edi^c- of the ice between the latter eoast ai... 
 Spit/.berj^en, reachin;^ a latitude of So" 23' \., and ou 
 his wa\' home he (lisco\ered the island now known as Jan 
 ]\Ia)en. In his seeond v()\;i;;e, undertaken in lOoS, he 
 made further examinations of the ed,^e of the ice between 
 Si)itzber!^en and Xo\a Zcmbla. In his third xoyaj^e, in 
 the employ of the Dutch Ivist India Compaii\\ he dis- 
 covered the Hudson River, and in 1610 discoxered Hud- 
 son's vStrait and the orc-u ba\- which bears his name. 
 
 At about the same period the Danish kings began to 
 send exi)editions for the re-disco\-ery of the lost Gref^ 
 land colony. Christian I\'. in 1605 sent three si 
 under the l-aiglishnien, Cunningham and Hall, and a 
 Dane named Lin(leno\-, which reached tlu western coast 
 of (rrecnlaud and had much intercourse with the Eski- 
 mos. Other \essels followed in 1606- 1607. 
 
 After several expeditions of minor importance, one of 
 which, despatched under .Sir Thomas Ihitton in com- 
 mand of the l\rsnlittii)ii and the D'scorcrw in 161 2 win- 
 tered on the west shores of Hudson Ua)-, Robert Bylot 
 as master, with William Baffin as pilot and navigator, 
 set out in 1616 in the Dixivz'ciy. Sailing np Davis' 
 Strait they pas.sed that navigator's farthest point at vSau- 
 dersou's Hope, and .sailed round the great channel, with 
 
 i 
 
 it; 
 
to 
 
 
 '/•///•; ri-.ARY i<i-:i.ii:F i-.xri-i^n i( w. ,,,, 
 
 smalKr cliauiuls iLadiii:^- out of it, which has hirii 
 kiKiwn f\cr siiux' as HatrmV l'.a\. I'.alliii iiaimd ihc 
 iiKisl iiorthiTii opiiiin^- Siuilh Soiiml, atkr ihi- Inst 
 (iowniiir of th(.' Ivisl India C<iniiiaii\ and iinmiluiiit 
 proinottr of ilif (.xpt-diiioti. Sir Thomas Smith. I[r 
 disro\(.ri.(l and rliar'.rd W'o.sttnhohm.' SiHind. and 
 Ilakluyt Island in the ri'^ions mar ami al)o\c' Capr 
 York, and the Car\ Islands and Lanc-a>lir Sound aad 
 joncs So'ind, k-adin;^- westward onl of liaffin's \\a\ . U 
 ma\- !)(.' mentioned as an illnstration of tlu' \alnc of 
 tlR'Sc early xoya^rs to inodiin science thai i'ldfcssor 
 Ilanslc-cn, of Christiana, made n>c of Haffiu's oI)>cr\a- 
 tions ill the compilation of his maL^iielic maps. 
 
 I'or a ))eriod of two eiaitnries, with the exception of 
 the estahlishmeiit of the m -lern Danish seltlenient> in 
 \\''est and South ('.reeiilaiid. there was no enterprise of 
 importance into these waters. 'J'his was dne mainl\ to 
 the fact that the decadence of vSpaiu and l'ortm_;al, and 
 the increasin.^- iia\-al slreii,L;tli ni' the Hntch, and later of 
 the lin.^lish, sliorth' broiij^ht about the opening; of the 
 routes by wa\- of the .Strait of Mai^ellan and the Cape 
 of Cjood Hope to the commerce of the world, .url made 
 the seekiii.i;- after a northwest passa<;e a matter of minor 
 importance. A ^reat deal was accomplished in a 
 northeasterly direction, howe\er, espeeialK' b\ the 
 Dutch, and between 1725 and 1711, b\' the command 
 of Peter the (ireat, ICmperor of Rus>ia, Ca]>laiii \'itns 
 Berin*;', a Dane, made sexeral x-oya^c-s, sailing ont of 
 Okhotsk, in Xortheasteni .Siberia, in which he dis- 
 
t 
 
 494 
 
 /A' .lA'CT/C S/i.^S. 
 
 1: 
 
 covnvd iIk' SCI and strait wliicli has ever since bonic 
 his iiauK-. 
 
 It was not till after the jx-ace of 1S15 that north 
 polar rt'scaroh ai^ain Inund a i)()\vcrrnl and indcfati- 
 jjjabk' advocate in Sir John Harrow. 'rhron,i;h his in- 
 fluence a law was enacted in iSiS hy the Hritish Par- 
 liament, by wdiieh a reward of ,/,\2<>,()()() was odered for 
 making the northwest passage, an<l of /,"5()(K) for reach in.;^ 
 89 X., while the Commissioners of Lon^itnde were 
 cmjiowered to award jiroportionate snnis to those who 
 nii.t>ht achiew certain portions of snch disco\eries. In 
 iSi- the .\ictic .Sea had been reported by Cai)tain 
 Scoresb\ nnnsnall) free from ice, and this cansed the 
 despatchin.t; of two expeditions the following year, the one 
 b\- wa\' of vSpitzbernen, and the other by Ilaffm's Uay. 
 To the lirst, in command of Captain Daxid linchanan, 
 vSir John I'ranklin, then oid\ I.ientenant iManklin. was 
 attached. The two vessels of this expedition we're 
 .se\erel\ nijiped and wereoblim'd to relnrii. 
 
 The other expediti. n, also e(inip])ed with two vessels, 
 the' hitlh-lla and the' .\l(\iiiiiiii\ nnder Captain John 
 Ross and I/.entenant r.irr\-, followed in the wake of 
 Hairin's voxai^e of i^uh, and is important mainh in that 
 it conhrnu'd the (lisco\eries of that ancient marini'r. 
 Cai>lain Ross thon^ht the inlets reported b\- r.aflln as 
 le.idin,!:^ ont of his i^reat ba\- were merel\- smaller inden- 
 tations in the- coa-^t ; his se'e-ond in coniman<l, howexer, 
 was con\ince'd that I.ancaste'r .Sonnd led to a wider 
 openini; to the' westward. 
 
 i 
 
 5. 
 
 
 3, 
 
 !l! 
 

 7V/L- PEARY RHl.lEr KXri-iniTION. 495 
 
 Parry was acoordinnly sok-cU'd to coiniiiand a new (■x- 
 pcditi.m the followiiio- yt'ai. I'ushino- westward throuuli 
 Lancaster Sound and its con.tiniiation— which he nanud 
 I'.arrow Strait— with an archipda-o on liis starboard 
 side, since known as I'arrv Ishmds, he observed a wide 
 openin- to the nortii, which he nanie.l Wellington 
 Channel, and sailed on for 300 miles to Mehille Island. 
 Here he was stopped by that impenetrable polar pack 
 <)l .threat thickness which seems to snrronnd the archi- 
 jK'laoo to the north of the American continent. The 
 e.\-])edition wintered on the sonth shore of .Melville 
 Island and retnrned in October, iSio. ( )n Ma\- S. iS_m, 
 anotlier expedition nnder his command went out with 
 the Ifrcia and the l-ury. This company passed their 
 fn>t winter on the newlv-discovered Melville I'eninsnla, 
 and still persevering, they passed a second winter a.mon.t; 
 the I-skimos at I-loolik in 6./^ 20' X., discovered a 
 channel leadino westward from the head of Ilndson's 
 Bay, whicli Parry named I-nry and Ilecla Strait, and re- 
 tnrned in the antnmn of i,S23. 
 
 Meanwhile I'ranklin had been t'mployed in ellbrts to 
 explore the northern coast of .\merica. hitherto almost 
 a Inra iiuoonita. I„ iSi.j Ir. went ont accompanied 
 bv Pr. Richardson, (kor.oe Pack and Hood, landin- at 
 ^■'>rk I'aclor\, whence the\- i)rocei>ded to Civat Sla\-e 
 Lake. In .\n,<^ust the following- \ear llie\ started f.,- 
 the Coppermine rivi^r, and tmbarkin- on it the\ reached 
 its month ..n jnlv iS, iSji. Over ,s<'" miles of c.,a.t 
 line we;e explored, as far as Cape Tnnia-ain. On it.^ 
 
UVi sH 
 
 496 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 
 'i 
 
 rcliiru jouriKv, llic ])arl\ (.iiduivd llic most frij^litful 
 sdlferin^ iVoiii culd and slarxation. hut f\L-iituall\ iM-ank- 
 liu, Ric-liardsuu and Hack ankx-d salL-lx' at I'ort Cliip- 
 ])L'\vyan. 
 
 In 1S24 tliR't.- conibiiK'd alli'inpts wlii.' ori^ani/ed. 
 I'arry attain ciitcTiui;- Lan.ca>li.r Suiiud was to push down 
 an oprninj4 he liad seen, and called I'rince Re.^ent's 
 Inlet ; hut he was iinsueeessful. I!eeehe\' entered liehr- 
 ini; Strait in the //A'.v\,v//, and extended our knowledge 
 of the north coast of the c-ontinent as far as Point 
 Ilairow. iManklin descended the Mackenzie I\i\er to 
 its month, and explored the c-iast to the westward for 
 j^74 miles ; wdiile Dr. Richardson discoxered the shore 
 between the Mackenzie eastward to the month of the 
 Coppernune and sighted land to the northward, which 
 he named W'ollaston Land, and called the di\idin:.;- 
 chanui'l I'nion and I)ol])hin .Strait, They returned in 
 the- anlnnni of i SjT). 
 
 I'arrx's attempt to reach the I'ole in 1S27 from Spitz- 
 ])er^en, 1)\ means of sled!.;e-l)oats, was useful oul\ in 
 proxiu!.; that notliim; could he done in the wa\" of Arctic 
 disco\er\- 1)\- leaxini.^- the land and trusting- to the driftiu.n 
 ] Kicks. 
 
 The tracini^- of the polar shores of Xortli .\merica 
 was continued 1)\ Captain John Ross, who, accompanied 
 1)N his neplu-w, James Ross, sailed in iS2<; in the 
 liitorv; the\- ])assed three succcssi\-e winters in the 
 reiiions around tlu- (luH ot Iloothia, so named 1)\ them 
 alter I'\lix Iloolh, a wealthy distiller who hnnished the 
 
THE PEAR Y REI.IEE EX PEP I TION. 497 
 
 funds lor the- (.•.\pc{liti(jii. TlK'ir winter (inartcrs was on 
 tlic eastern side of the land, whicli they named liootliia 
 l^'lix. In the course of excursions chirin.L; the summer 
 months, lliey crossed llie hind and discovered llie posi- 
 tion of the North ma-iietic Pole on the western side of 
 it, on Jnne i, 1S31. The Rosses conld never -el liieir 
 little \essel out of its winter (|uarters, and were ohli-ed 
 to fall back on their stores on iMiry I'.each, wliere they 
 si)ent a fourth winter, and were eventuallv picked u]. hy 
 a whaler in liarrow Strait. The servants of the Hud- 
 son's liay Com])any finally completed the surve\ s of the 
 northern coast of America. 
 
 lu 1S4S, a fresh atteni])t was made hy Sir jnlui 
 lM-aid<lin, in the J-.irhiis and the l\rr<n\ to lorce a 
 passa-e from Lancaster Sound to I'.ehrin- Strait, with 
 its well-known tra-ic endin- Of the stow ,,r this 
 untoward event, and the numerous expeditions <.f searcli 
 u-hich it called forth, onlv the briefest outline of its 
 uiost important points can ])e -iven. A tew -eo-raphi- 
 cal delads are necessar\- in order to under.stiind clearly 
 the nature of the obstacles which finall\- stepped the 
 l)ro-ress of the uuhaj-pv ex])lorer, and which also pre- 
 vented Sir Ivlward I'arry from i)roceedin- further on his 
 first vova-e. Westward of Melville and \Vxx\\v^ Islands, 
 northward of the western part of the American cast, and 
 northward of Keunedv Channel, there is a vast unknown 
 s]\ice, the ice which encund)ers it uex'er iiavin- been 
 traversed bv ;uiv ship. The Hoes with which it i> packed 
 are descnbed bv all navi-alor> ^vlio have skirted its ^.,1.^^ 
 
49« 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 
 'ji 
 
 as \)C\\\'^ of stupeiulons thickness and luassixc ])r()])()r-- 
 tious. 
 
 This accuiiiuhuidii of ice, to which Sir Crcori^c Xaics 
 has ^i veil the name of a " Paleocr\>lic Sea.' arises from 
 the absence of direct coniinnnication hetween this por- 
 tion of the Arctic ( )cean and the warmer waters of the 
 AtUuitic and Pacific. IJehrinjj;- Strait is the only vent in 
 a S(nith westerly direction, and that channel is so shallow 
 that the ice ,L,n-()niids ontside of it. In other directions 
 the channels leadiiii:;- to IJaffin's Hay are narrow and 
 tortiions. The lieav\' ])olar ice flows southeast between 
 Melville and I>ariii,y; Islands, down what is now called 
 McClintock Channel, and impiiii^vs on the lujrthwest 
 coast of Kin*; William's Land, discovered by James 
 Ross. It was this last named branch of the paleocrystic 
 sea which fiiialh' stopped the pro.^ress of the Franklin 
 e.xpediticni. 
 
 On leaviii}.; his winter quarters at Heechey Island in 
 1846, F'ranklin found a channel leading .south, now 
 called Peel Sonnd, ninninu;- aloiiij;- the western shore of 
 the land of North Somerset, discovered by Parry in 1819. 
 If he could reach the channel on the American coast, 
 he knew that he wonld be able to make his way alonjj^ it 
 to Behriiiji^ Strait. lie sailed sonth throut^h Peel Sound 
 towards Kin<j William's Land, with land on both sides. 
 lint directly he passed the southern point of the western 
 laiul, and was no loiii^^er shielded by it, the <^reat ])aleo- 
 cr\stic stream from Melville Island was fallen in with, 
 pressino- oil Kiiii;' William's Land. It was impassable. 
 
 i 
 
THE PEA R } ' REL lEE EXPEDl HON. 4 , ,9 
 
 The only possibility of proi^rcss would ha\e been b\- 
 rotin(liii,i;- thf eastern side of Kiun- WilliaiiTs Laud, now- 
 known to be an island, ])ut whose insularitv was then 
 unknown. 
 
 When, in i S4S, iM-anklin had still failed to return, 
 anxiety bej^an to be felt for the exjiedition, and James 
 Ross \vas despatched to Lancaster Sound with two 
 ships. He returned in the following; >ear without au\- 
 tidinj^s. The alarm ft)r the safet\- of the part\- now 
 became <>;eneral, and in May, iS^o, Captain Austin was 
 sent, in command of the . /.vv/,vA?//(V and the R,s,)//i/,\ 
 with two steam tenders, to renew the search b\- wa\- of 
 Harrow vStrait. Two lM-i_t;s, the /.diiy l-'rankliii and 
 Sophia, under tlie command of IVniu, an able whaliu;^ 
 captain, were .sent l)y the same route. The\- were 
 oblinred to remain over winter, and nuide an exhanstixe 
 .search, discoverin,^- PVanklin's winter cpiarters on 
 Beecliey Island, ])i't there was no record of an\- kind to. 
 indicate the direction taken b\- the ships. 
 
 In Januar\-, iS^o, an expedition, under Colliuson and 
 McChire, in the I-liittrpiisc and the /i/rcs/ioa/or, had 
 sailed from iMi.t^dand to attempt to succor the niissini; 
 explorers by way of Ik'hrin,^- vStrait. The ships 
 accidentalh' parted com])an\-, and each contiinied what 
 pro\-ed to be most remarkable \()\a,^es. ( )n Ma\ (), 
 KS51, the l-liiUrpi is(\ with Colliuson on board, passt'd 
 the strait, and rounded I'oint liarrow on the 25th. 
 Colliuson then made his wa\' U]) the narrow Prince of 
 Wales Strait, betwei'U JKiriu'' and Prince .Mbert Islands 
 
'■I 
 
 ?! 
 
 
 li^ 
 
 5c« 
 
 LV ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 ami reached Princess Royal Islaiuls, where McChire had 
 been the previous year. Returniu}^'- southward, the 
 luitcrprisr wintered in a sound in Prince Albert Island. 
 Traveliu}^ parties were despatched in the sprinjj;- of 1S52, 
 one of them reachin.y; Melville Island. In vSeptend)er, 
 i(S52, the ship was free, and Collinson jiressed eastward 
 alonjj^ the northeast of America, reachin<;' Camhridi^e 
 Ha\-, where a s.'cond winter was passed. In the spring- 
 he examined the shores of \'ietoria Land, ;ind came to 
 within a few miles of Point \'ietor\-, where the fate of 
 Kranklin would ha\-e been ascertained. The I'.iitdprisc 
 a.t^ain put to sea on .\u,i4;ust 5, I'^^.S^. ^md returned west- 
 ward alons^- the northern coast of America until she was 
 stopped by ice, and obliged to pass a third winter at 
 Camden P>a\'. In iS^j. this most remarkable vo\"a,!4e was 
 completed, and Captain Collinso-.i brou.^ht the 1-liiUr- 
 prisc back to ICnj^land. 
 
 Meanwhile McClure in the Iii:< sli'^ator had ])asscd 
 the winter iS^o-'si at the Princess I 
 
 \o\ al 
 
 islands, oni\ 
 
 thirt\- miles from Parrow Strait. In ( )clob(.r McClure 
 ascended a hill whence he could see the frozen surface of 
 Piarrow vStrait navigated by Parr\' in iSiq. It was imjios- 
 sible to reach it, for the same branch of the ])aleocr\stic 
 sea which stopped P'ranklin off Kin^; William's 
 Land was athwart their nortluv.ird course. So as soon 
 as he was free, in iS^d, McClure turned southward 
 around the southern extreme of lining Island, and com- 
 menced to force a passage to the northward betwet'U the 
 western shon-of that land and the eiMiniou^ fuMs of ice 
 
 I' 
 
Till-: pi'.ARY ri-:lii:i-' Kxni'iniTioN. 
 
 =ifH 
 
 which pR'ssL-d ni^on it. The cliffs rose up like walls on 
 one side, while on the other the stupendons ice of the 
 paleocrvstic sea rose from the water to a 1 .-xel with the 
 Iiivcslij^alori^ lower yards. Alter many hair-hreadth 
 escapes McClnre took refn,<;e in a l)a\- on the northern 
 shore of Hanks' Land, which he n.amed "The IJay of 
 (iod's Mercy." There the ///rvvZ/Vv/Av remained, never 
 to nunc aoain. After the winter of iSsi-\s-3 McCliire 
 made a jotirne\- across the ice to Melville Island, and left 
 a record at Parry's winter harbor. Abundant snp-])lies 
 of nnisk-oxen were fortnnately fonnd, bnt another winter 
 had to be faced. In the sprini^' of iS^:^ McClure was 
 Iireparin.t,^ to abandon the shiji with all hands, and 
 attempt, like iMMnklin's crews, to re.ich the northern 
 coast of America. Ihit snccor providentialK- arrived in 
 time. 
 
 In 1S32 the Piritish ^oxernment resohed to send 
 another expedition to jiroceed by Lancaster vSonnd. 
 Anstin's \-essi-ls, the . lss/s/ij//<r and /\r.u)////i\ and their 
 steam tenders, the /Voz/rr/- :uid ////rr/^/,/, were recom- 
 missioned, and the .\'<>r//i S/ar sent ont as a dep(;t 
 ship. Sir Kdward r)elden commanded the . Issisfaiicc 
 and the I'ioi/tcr was nnder vSherard Osborn. These two 
 proceded np Wellin.nton Channel to Xorthnmberland 
 Bay, where the\- wintered. A second winter was passed 
 hx them lower down in Wellin.^ton Channel, and then, 
 aba>.idonin<;- their ships, they retnrned home in 1-^54. 
 
 Captain Kellett connnanded the other \-essel, the Rcso- 
 luti\ with McClintock in the steam tender Iiilrcpid. 
 
mar-r' 
 
 ySSSSSS9imimtsm 
 
 Hii. 
 
 
 iii 
 
 I 
 
 502 
 
 /N ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 Aiiiuiii; Kl-UcII's officers were the best of Auslin's 
 filcdj^e-travelers, McClintock, .Mecluuii and W'slv Ham- 
 ilton ; (ieori^e Xares, the future leader of the expedition 
 of I ''^74-75, was also on board the Rrsoliiti. Kellett 
 passed onward to the westward and passed the winter of 
 iS52-'53 ;it Melville Island. Dnrin*,'- the autumn 
 Mecham <lisco\ered McClnre's record at I'arrx's winter 
 harbor, and the position of the /iircs/i^a/or was thus 
 ascertained and the safety of her crew was assured ; for 
 it was only necessary to send a message across the strait 
 between two fixed ])ositions. 
 
 This service was performed by Lieut. I'im earh' in the 
 following; spring. The officers and crew of the /luus/i- 
 i;(i/i>i\ led b\' McClure, arrixed safely on board the A't so- 
 ////(■ on June 17, 1S53, and the\- reached iMiinland in the 
 followini:^ Near. The\' had not onl\- disco\"ered but 
 tra\'ersed a northwest passrij^e, thoui^h not in the same 
 ship, and ])artl\' b\- traveling'- over the ice. 
 
 I'p to this time the nustery of the fate of the 
 I-'ranklin i)art\- was luisolved. .\t last in i''^54. Dr. 
 Rae, relurnini; from a journey u]) to Kin.^' WillianTs 
 Land, in which he established it to be an island, 
 broujL^ht home tidin>4S and relics of iM-anklin which 
 he had ,L,r;itli(_-red from the Eskimos. This led to the 
 expedition of McClintock in the /'ox. 
 
 At the time the .ifovernmcnt of (ireat IJritain was 
 wholly taken ujiwith Ivastern affairs, and when the war 
 was over, it was deemed useless to spend more mone\- and 
 risk more lives in what was re<;arded as a hopeless cpiest. 
 
 i(6 
 
Tin: PHAR ) ' A'AV. //;■/•■ J:.\PFJ)/ WON. 303 
 
 P.tit L;ul\- iM-ankliu's pious (k\(iti(.u to tlu- iikiuoin of 
 liLT nohU- Iiiishaiid ]>n);ui)l(.(l lur to make oik- last effort 
 to ascertain his fate ; to this object slic dedicated all her 
 available means, aided, as she had been before, b\ the 
 subscriptions of sympathizing- friends. The little \ aclit 
 /vM- was purchased and fitted out, rnid under the com- 
 mand of the \eteran Arctic \-oya,!4er, Leo])old McCliu- 
 tock, she sailed from Aberdet-n, Juh', 1N57. 
 
 Tile first winter was passed drifting- around liairm's 
 IJay, locked fast in the floes, and it was not until the 
 autumn of iS^S that the /-'oi- was i^ot into winter quar- 
 ters at Port Is.enned\-, on Ikdlot .Strait, between P.ooihia 
 I'Vlix and Xorth vSonier^et. In the sjjrin^' of 1 S59 
 sled.i^ini;- i)arties went out to search the coasts of 
 Kiu!^- WilliauTs Island and the west coast of lioothia. 
 The search was successful so far as ascertaininj^ the fate 
 of the expedition is concerned. Prom the iCskimos in 
 P)()othia many relics were obtained, and reports as to the 
 fate of the ships and the men. All alonii;- the west and 
 south coasts of Kinjr William's Island remains of articles 
 belon.u^intj: to the sliips were discovered, and skeletons 
 that told a terrible tale of disaster. Abo\e all. in a 
 cairn at Point \'ictory ii record was ilisco\-ere(l b\- Lieut. 
 Ilobson that brielh- told the histor>- of the expedition up 
 io A\n\] 2,s. 1S4S. lu iS45-'4r) ii had wintered at 
 PecchcN- Island, on the southwest co.i^t of Xorth I)e\-on, 
 after having- ascended \Vellin,i,ft<>n Channel to latitude 
 77^^, and returned b\- the west side of Cornwallis Island. 
 The success of the first \ear's work, thus l)riefl\- stated. 
 
 / 
 
 I 
 
I 
 
 n\> 
 
 III 
 
 
 5'M 
 
 /N ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 was j^iLulir tliaii any ever attained within a sin<,de sea- 
 son (if Arctic service. 
 
 Tlie record was written on one of the forms supplied 
 by tile admiralty to snrveyin_L;' \essels to he thrown o\-er- 
 board after the recpiired data had been filled in. I'nt upon 
 the mar<2[in and around the printed form was an adden- 
 dum dated April 25, 1S4S, after all hope of a successful 
 termination of the enterprise was j^iveii ii]). It was in 
 these words: " .\])ril 25, 1S4S, H. M. vS. Ttiror and 
 /i/</'/ts wvw deserted on 22 April, five leajj^ues X. X. \V, 
 of this, liavin<f been beset since 12th vSeptember, 1S46. 
 The officers and crews, consistiiiir of 105 sonls, under 
 the comniand of Captain V. R. M. Cro/.ier, landed here 
 in lat. (nf 37' 42" X., Ion--. 98= 41' \V. Sir Jolm 
 Franklin died on the iitli June, i''^47 ; and the total 
 loss ])y death of the expedition has been up to this date 
 9 officers and 15 men." It was in the l)andwritin»^ of 
 Cai)taiii iMtzjames, to whose sij^nature is ajipeiided that 
 of Captain Cro/.ier, who also adds the words of momen- 
 tous si<j^iiificance : " vStart on to-morrow, 26tli April, 
 184.S, for P.ack's I<ish River." 
 
 A briefer record never Lold a more tra<,nc stt)ry. All 
 of the party had ])robably overrated their strength and 
 their ability to reach the northern shores of the continent 
 of America. Reduced by want of suilicient food 
 and the effect o{ their winter's confinement in these 
 rc<i^ions, they had attempted to dra_y; with them two 
 boats, besides heavily-laden sled*;cs, and doubtless were 
 soon compelled to abandon a {greater part of their burden. 
 
 » 
 
 f 
 
 Ml 
 
Till: PEAK ) ■ RE 1. 1 El- I: \l 'El V I' I ON. 5. .5 
 
 Oil'.- of the boats was found 1)\- McCliiUock ikmi llu- 
 iniddlc of the wcsl coast of Kinj;- Willianrs Island. It 
 contained two skeletons. I'roni the I'',skinios it was 
 learned that the men dropped down as lhe\- walked, and 
 were iVecinently left unhuried. There was no snsi)icion 
 of foul ])la\, althou.nh many relics of the retreatini^ 
 jxirtN were found in the possession of the M>kimos. 
 I'"rom all that coidd be .nathercd it seems that one of the 
 vessels was crushed in the ice, and the other stranded on 
 the shores of Kin,!..;- WilliauTs Island, where it lav for 
 years a mine of wealth to the wild tribesmen. \o trace 
 of the vessels was found. This is all that is known of 
 the fate of I-ranklin and his <^allant men. I-ranklin is 
 certainlv entitled to the credit of havinj.;- discovered the 
 northwest passa<;e, the point reached by him bein,^ within 
 a few miles of that reached by earlier explorers from 
 the westward. 
 
 The catastrophe of vSir John iMMuklin's e.\]H'dition 
 led to the discovers' of jooo miles of coast line and to the 
 c.\i)loration of a vast extent of unknown countr\ . It 
 also afforded a warniuL; which would render an\- similar 
 disaster (piite inexcusal)le. If arrani^emeuts are alwaxs 
 circfullv made for a retreat, if a depot shi]) is alwa\s 
 left in reach of the advancin;^ expedition on the one hand 
 as well as of the outer world on the other, and if tlu re 
 is annual connnunicatiou with positive rules lor deposil- 
 inj; records, no such catastrophe can ever happen a-ani. 
 
 The American nation was hrst led to lake an interest 
 in polar enterprise throui^h a very noble and j^H-nerous 
 
 I 
 
I 
 
 5' '''> 
 
 /N .-lA'i /'/( .S/t./.V. 
 
 W" 
 
 li 
 
 syiiipiitliN- n.r iM'ankliii and hi> Uravc c<)ni])aiii()n>. Mr. 
 ( irinuc'll, of Xcw \'(>rk, ;^a\(.- practical c\piv>.sii)n to this 
 ficliii^; I)\ till' iipiipmciit, ill iSs". "f two ncsscIs, tlic 
 .lt/r(i//(r and tlii' /\i.u/i(\ commanded 1)\ I^ic-utcnants 
 DcIIaxcii and ( irillitli, to aid in llic search. Dr. Kane, 
 of I'liilaiklpliia. accompanied tlu' (.■\pedition a.s .snrLjeon 
 and iialnialist, and wrote tlu' narrati\e of tlie >aiiu-, 
 published in ■■'^i.si, uiidir the title "The ('. .S. ('rriniull 
 l"",\peditioii in Search of 1 ):■. l-ranklin.'" 'IMie e.\i)editioii 
 reac-hed iMankliiTs wintc'r (piarters on lieechey Island, 
 hut reluriK-d thi- >anK- \ ear without wintering; there. 
 Kail'' w.is deti'rmined not to ,^i\e up the search, and 
 all .i^dxerninenlal aid hein^ refused, in spite of feehic 
 lualth, he Irax'eled throii^li the .States lecturin,^ in 
 order to obtain funds, and j.;a\e up his pay for twent\' 
 nu)nlhs. 
 
 iMuallx' Mr. (irimiell a^ain came to the rescue with 
 the brit;- . h/rtf/zic, which was etpiipped with the help of 
 Mr. Teabody and the . Academy of Xatural .Sciences, 
 and in i''"^.^^ the expedition sailed with the purj^osc of 
 exploriu*^ the unknown country borderiuiL,^ on .Smith 
 .Sound, the uortherh' outlet of liaffin's Way, and l)e\()nd. 
 The .h/:(i//<(' reached .Smith .Sound in .\u5rust, 1S33, 
 an<l went into winter (piarters on Rensselaer ]\a\ . In- 
 teresting- work was done in the following' s]iriim. i lu 
 i^Meatest of all .glaciers, HumboldK ilacier. Mtrface 
 
 exteudiui^ over sixt\" miles, was discovers .d M()rtt)n, 
 one of the ])arty, crossed its foot with a sled .tml a leaui 
 of doi^s, and attained a point beyond, near Cape 
 
 
THF. rEARY REI.lh.l- l-XruniTlON. 
 
 5<'7 
 
 Coiistilulioii, ill lalilU(k' Si 22' X. wluiicx' lu' .saw lo 
 the iiorlhward opfu water. 
 
 This (liscovcTx, which was prohahlv iKithiii-; iiii.i\ ihaii 
 a ))art of the sea bexoiul Kennedy Chaniul, ami ])().s>il)lv 
 what is now known as Ilall iJasin, ti.ni]>(iiaiil\ (.'Uar of 
 iee, was the orij^in of tlie ni\thofan " ( )j)en I'olar.Sea." 
 The expedition was liarassed by sickness and waul ^A 
 means, and after a second winter, (hirin,^ which mmman' 
 attacked the whole party, notwithstanding tlu' l'".>kinios, 
 who pro\ed trne friends, furnished iheni wi:h Iresli nuat, 
 till' Advance was abandoned Ma\ 17, 1S55, and the 
 parly reached Tpernavik on Ani^iisl ^. IJmt. IIart>lene, 
 who liad been sent ont to search lor Kane, reaclu-d \'an 
 Rensselaer I5a\' after he had .^one, but lotik the reinat- 
 in^- crew on l)()ard on liis return \-o\aiL;e. 
 
 Kane reached home in ( )ctober and at once set about 
 writinfj the narrative of his voya;..,^', which was published 
 in 1S56. He died in Havana, l'\bruary iC), 1^57. onlv 
 thirt>-seven years of a^ij^c, ha\'in,L,'' certainh' accomplished 
 a prodif^ions amount of work in his short and restless life. 
 
 On Jn]\- 10, iS6(), an expedition left I'.oston, under the 
 command of Dr. Hayes, in the schooner I'liitui Stales, 
 for vSmitli Sound, with the object of I'ollowin^ up the 
 line of research be<;un by Dr. Kane. Dr. Ilaxes had 
 been one of tlie com]>anions of the former e\])(.(lition. 
 He wintered at Port Fonlke, and in the followiuL; sjirinj.^ 
 crossed the sound to the American sliore in do;;' sled^a-s, 
 explorin_t^ the coast, without makini:;- an\- momentous di.s- 
 coveries, however. 
 
hi} 
 
 I 
 
 508 
 
 /N ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 % 
 
 •% 
 
 Tliu st<)r\- of Charles Hall as an Arctic explorer, like 
 that of many others, is most pathetic. A deep interest 
 with the fate of jSir John iManklin first led him into the 
 northern seas. In the fnst jonrne)', iS6()-Y)2, he dis- 
 covered the remains of a stone house which iM'obisher 
 had built on the Coinitess of Warwick Island in 157'S. 
 In his .second e.\])edition, iS64-Y)9, Hall, by dint of the 
 most nnwearied ])erseverance, at len.t^th reached tin 'ine 
 of retreat of the l-'ranklin survivors, at Todd's Islanc ....d 
 Pepper River, on the south coast of Kini; William's 
 Island. He heard the stor\ of the wreck of one of the 
 sliips from the I'vskimos. He was told that seven bodies 
 were bnried at Todd Isla.id, and he bronj^ht home some 
 bones which are believed to be those of I^ient. Le \'er- 
 comte, of the l-j-<hiis. 
 
 ( )n July .^, i^i/i, he startcvl from Xew London with 
 the ill-starred expedition in the Polaris. Hall's own 
 plans inclnded a steamer, with a sailing' vessel as snj)- 
 port, and the means of maintainin.i;' occasional comninni- 
 cation between himself and the civili/ed world wherever 
 he mi_<;ht be. The necessit\" of keepin<^ o])en commnni- 
 cation in order to insure ;- retreat or make a rescne 
 tolerably cert;. in had l)een shown a^ain and a.i;;un, and 
 was rclnctantK' abandoned wlien he found that ('on<4ress 
 would ,ui\<-' him but one \esse] and only <5(),()()f). 
 
 In respect, tot , of 'he region selected for exjiloration 
 his plans wert- com;ietel\' modified. It had ])cen intended 
 b>' him to sail westward out of liatrin's Uay up Jon :> 
 Sound, but the opinions of his friends, the ICskimos, aiui 
 
I 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 THE PEAR ) ' RELIEF E.\/>E/)l7IOU. .so., 
 
 the ^Mvat interest attacliiiiu- to Kane's exiKiiiiuvs, in- 
 dnced him to chanj^^ehis ])nri)osean(l to follow nptlic lat- 
 ter exj)l()rer's discoveries on Sniitli vSouiul. ( )ii the after- 
 noon of Aii,i,nist 27 the J\>laris was opposite- Capt' AKx- 
 ander and entered the sonnd. She was pn>hnl forward 
 rapidl)-, favored hy eoni])aratively open water, and on 
 the evenin.i;- followin.t;- entered the narrow ehannel i x- 
 tendin.i; north in eontinnation of vSniitlTs Sonnd, and 
 sinee e.dled Kennedy Channel On the twentv-ninth 
 they fonnd tiieniselves in a part of the ehanntl just tr.ix- 
 erse(h where it widened into a basin of some fort\ miles 
 in extreme hrea(Uh, now ealled Had Ilasin, and he\oad 
 this found a strait trending northeast. 
 
 Thisslrail. whieh is;d)onl lwent\- to twenl\ -fi\ x' miles 
 in wi(hh, is honkred 1)\- hi^h nionntaiiions land, l-Mken 
 here and there I)\ ra\ines, hut in i^encnd ]ire>eMlin- a 
 perpendienlar line of elifl>. Durin- the riinaiii<U i <.f the 
 ni-^lil, and for sewral lionr> of llie (.arlv pari (.f the thir- 
 tieth, the ship was kept mo\in^- toward t!ie ndrlli ; im- 
 mense iet-fields were pa>sed, iaerca>in,^ in si/.e and nnm- 
 ber. Al ^ a. m. the hi-lu.i pnim v.vas reatdud. 'J'lie ii'e 
 then became so eompaet thai il w.is impo-sibh- to loree 
 tile \fssel throu-h. \.. open water was steii fiiillai 
 north. Tl-." Eolnri.s h;id Raelml the limit (,;' lu ;■ \(»\a,m'. 
 " We saw firm ice from one v<.k\A to ti)e (.ilur," >a\> llu' 
 onl\- ret'ord that li.is been preM-rved. b'o-s had |ire- 
 \-ented obser\:it;ii:is bein- takiai. so that the latiliidi.' 
 reached conld not be recorded with exacthiss. bm fi,„n 
 c.'irelnl caUailatiou based on .ill ihe records pr(»enrablc', 
 

 510 
 
 ny ARCTIC SHAS. 
 
 % 
 
 
 the Hydr(),u;ra])hic Office published as a result of their 
 revisiou that the hij^hcst point reached by the Po/nris 
 was 82° 11', a point far beyond all previous navij^ation 
 towards the Pole. The strait in which she found her- 
 :>elf was called Robeson Strait, after the Secretar>- of 
 the Xavy, and the ice-bound ocean beyond was named 
 Liiicoln Sea. 
 
 The expedition went into winter quarters in Thank 
 God Harbor, September i, 1871, but the death of 
 Captain Hall virtually put an end to its work. The 
 ship was locked in its liarbor l)y Providence Hero;, 
 a huge iceberjj^, to which .she had been fastened durinj^^ 
 the winter, and from which .she was not released until 
 July, 1 87 2. vShe cruised anioui; the floes and bergs of 
 Kennedy Channel and Smith Sound during August and 
 September, 1872, vainly trying to force her wa>- south- 
 ward. Karh' in October, fearing her destruction by a nip, 
 stores were got on the floes. On the second of the month 
 the floes parted, and a jiortion of the exjiedition, nineteen 
 in number, were cast adrift, spending the winter on their 
 ice-raft, and were finalh' ])ieked up by the British sealer 
 /y^'/v'.v.v on .\i)ril 30, 1873, o(T the coast of Labrador. 
 The part\' remaining with the ship was at last compelled 
 to abandon her, and was rescued by the vScotcli whaler 
 A'trrr/zu/tf/'x in June, 1873. 
 
 Inspired thereto b\- Dr. Petermann, of (iotha, his 
 (lerman countrymen were moved to take their share in 
 the work of polar diseoviTN'. .\n expedition was organ- 
 ized in iSf)S under the counnand of Captain Koldewey, 
 
 ( 
 
 ; 
 
w 
 
 THE PEARY RELIEE EXPEDl I lu\ ^u 
 
 and provisionc-d for two years. It consisted of tiie f,rr. 
 niniiia, a screw steamer. )f 170 tons, and the hri- Uansa, 
 commanded l)y Captain Hejremann. The ship left P.ro- 
 mcn on Jnne 15, 1869, destined for the east coast of 
 Greenland. The Ifansa -ot separated from her consort 
 in httitnde 70° 46' X., and was crnslied in tlie ice. 
 Her crew escaped, takin- refn<.re ,,n a lar-e floe. Here 
 they imiuovised a Init ])uilt of patent fnel, in wliich 
 strange refnge they spent and celebrated Christmas. Hy 
 the following May they had drifted iioo miles on their 
 ice-floe, and at last, on Jnne 14, 1870, they arrived safely 
 at the Moravian mission station of Friedriksthal, west of 
 Cape Farewell. The Gmnaiiia sailed np the east coast 
 of Greenland .s high as 75° 35' X., and eventually win- 
 tered at the Pendulnm Islands in 74° 30' X. In March 
 1870, traveling parties .set ont nnder Koldewe\- and 
 Payer, the fntnre discover of Franz Josefs Land ; the\ 
 reached a point 100 miles to the northward of the ship, 
 when they were compelled to return for want of pro- 
 visions. A grim cape, named after Bismarck, marked 
 the northern limit of their discoveries. In latitude - j° 
 15 X. a deep branching fiord was di.sco\ered stretching 
 a long dij'.mce into the interior of (keeidand. Along its 
 .shores arc peaks 7000 and 14.000 feet high. The j)arty 
 enconntercd nnmcrons herds and shot main niiisk-oxen. 
 Lient. Payer was resolved to continne in the path of 
 polar di.scovcry, and as a preliniinar\-, he and an olhcer 
 of the An.stro-Hnngarian Xav\- freighted a Xorwegian 
 .schooner, the Ishfdni, and in the snmnier of 18-1 
 
Hi: 
 
 »"■ 
 
 'I: 
 
 5>2 
 
 IN ARCTIC S J-:. IS. 
 
 examined tlic c(l<;e of the ice belweeu vSpit/her>;eii and 
 Xova Zcinbla. Uu July 14, 1^72, the two explorers 
 
 left T 
 
 tlu 
 
 ■it) 
 
 Willi lee 
 
 roniso in the steamer IVi^clliDjJ duriii 
 season 
 siimm 
 
 ti(3nall\- severe 
 
 aiu 
 
 1 tl 
 
 an exeep- 
 
 iL' vessel was soon beset 
 
 Tlu 
 
 of 1S73 found her still a close 
 
 V J 
 
 jjrisoiier near Cape Nassau at the northern end of Xova 
 Zenibla, but on Auj^just 31, a mountainous country was 
 sij^hted, and in October the \essel had drifted to within 
 three miles of an island in latitude 79° 54'. There a 
 
 second winter was spen 
 
 t. I 
 
 iears were \'er\' numerous 
 
 and 
 effect 
 
 sixt\-seven were killed, their meat provini,^ an 
 
 ive rcmed\' against scur\\', 
 
 Tl 
 
 le newlv (liscoxcivd 
 
 country was found to equal Spil/.bert^cii in extent, to 
 be di\idcd into two or more masses, and to extend to 
 latitude Si*"" X. The mountains all. lined a height of 
 2()0') or 3000 feel, the (lei)ressions between them beiui; 
 coNered by glaciers and the interior surniounled b\ an 
 ice-ca|). The country was named after ihe Iv.nperor of 
 Austria, iMan/ Josef 's Land. The i)arly wasoblii^ed to 
 aban;li>:i llieir sliip and allempt a retreat in open boats, 
 and were al last picked u]> by a Russian schooner and 
 arrived al X'anh'i September 3, 1S7 4. 
 
 In ( )vlol)er, 1S74. spurred to action b\- the gallant 
 enterprise of other countries, the then ])rime miui>t<.r 
 ()'.' iCni^laud announcid that an LXjiedition would be 
 started out in the followin;^- > ear to renew polar ex])lo- 
 raliou. The route by Smith Sound was selected, and 
 two ])owerful steamers, the .\hit and l^isco:'ir\\ were 
 commissioned. Captain Xares was placed in command. 
 
 % 
 
nil- PHARY RELIEF EXPED/T/OX. 5,3 
 
 The expedition left Portsniuuth on May 2y, iS;^, and 
 entered Smith Sound towards the end of July. After 
 lierculean difficulties with the driftin<,r packs Lady Frank- 
 lin Hay, in latitude 81° 44', was reached, where the Ihsror. 
 cry was established in winter quarters. The .Unl 
 pressed on and reached the ed-e of the paleocrxstic .sea, 
 the ice llcK-s bein- from 80 to 100 feet in thickne.s.s. 
 I.eavino- Robeson Strait the vessel made pro-re.ss 
 between the land and the .<,m)unded ice ]neces"and 
 pas.sed the winter off the open coast, and facin- the -reat 
 polar pack in 82° 27' X.,at a point 16' fnrther north 
 than the hio-hcst reached by the Pn/'ans. On April ^, 
 1876, sled-in,<r parties started from both ve.s.sels. Captain 
 Markham and Lieut. Parr advanced over almost insur- 
 mountable difficulties over the p.,lar pack to a hi-her 
 latitude than was ever before attained, S^^' 20' 26" N. 
 The coast line to the westward, facino- the fn./.en ocean, 
 was explored, as well as over 3,,,) miles of new cast 
 line alon- the northern coast of (ireenland. the difficidty 
 of the work beinjr increased a hundred-fold ])y the party 
 bcin- attacked ])y .scurvy. .\ .series of niaouetic, me- 
 teorological and tidal observations completed the usefid 
 work, and the expedition returned to ICii-land in 
 October, 1S76. 
 
 In 1879, a party, consisting of Lieut. .Sdiwatka, V. 
 S. A., and three others, .set out overland with llicbject 
 of throwin- fm-ther linht „„ the sad histor>- of tl,,. 
 retreat of Sir John PVanklin's expedition, by cvaminiu- 
 the west coast of Kino William's I.slaud in the summer 
 
V. 
 
 5'4 
 
 nV ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 ))•». 
 
 wlieii the jj^romul would be free of snow. Thc\- wintered 
 near Chesterfield Inlet, on Hudson's Wax. ( )u Aiiril r. 
 1879, the\' set out for the estnar\- of the C.reat 1m>1i 
 River, takin,i;- onl\' very little provisions and assisli-d 1)\ 
 Kskinios and dojjjs. Their reliance was niainls on 
 ji;anie, in wiiicli they were favored by fortnne. killing 
 no less than 522 reindeer on the trip. The ei)ld of the 
 winter in this rej^ion is intense, the therni()n\t.ti.-r fallin,i; 
 as low as 70° below zero, so that the retnrn jouriRA-, 
 which was be«;nn in Xox'eniber, was most remarkable. 
 Little was left to be done with rej^ard to the search after 
 McClintock and Hall, bnt some <jraves were ft)nnd, as well 
 asa medal belonjj^in<:^ to Lient. Irvmq;, of the /'vvv^r, and 
 some bones believed to be his were broni^ht home and 
 interred at Ivlinbnr<;li. 
 
 In iS7(j James (rordon IJemiett, of the New York 
 I/i'in/d, decided to fit out an explorinj;- expedition into 
 Arctic waters, to ]iroceed by way of I)ehrin<; vStrait wisl- 
 ward. Tlu' yacht Pandora, in which vSir Allen Vo'.m.i; 
 had in 1.S75 so nearh' sncceeded in penetratin.i,^ Peel 
 Soiuid and the northwest ])assa,i;;e n]) to the i)oint 
 reached by I'ranklin, was bon.^ht and rechristened the 
 Jcanitittc. She was provisioned for three years, and the 
 nndertakinjj^ havinj^ been made a national one by special 
 act of Conjjress, the expedition sailed from vSan I-'rancisco 
 on Jnly S, 1S79, nnder the command of Lieut. De I-on^, 
 of the United .States Xa\y. The vessel was last siL,dited 
 on vSeptember 3 steaminj;- towards \Vran,i;cll Land. Xo 
 tidin_y;s havinjj^ come from \\\k: Jiaiiiiillt\ in iSSi two 
 
THE J'HAR ) ' RELIEF EXPEP/7/OA. 515 
 
 steamers wxTc sent in search. One of ilani, tlic A'od- 
 ,i:rr.s\ reached Wranj^ell Land, on tlic sonlh side of 
 which she ancliored in a <,n)od harbor. The land was 
 explored and di.scovered to l)c an island ahoiit scvent>- 
 miles ]ouir, with a ridjrc of hills traversinjj^ it cast and 
 west. The Rodx^ns then penetrated to the north of it 
 and examined the ed<;e of the polar ice, rcachinj^^ lati- 
 tude 'jT,° 44' X., th.e highest ever attained on the Hehrino 
 Strait meridian. Xo news was obtained of the missin.t,^ 
 expedition, bnt soon after the melancholy tidings came 
 from Siberia that the Jcaniuih., after having been beset 
 in the heavy packs for twenty-two months, was crnshed 
 in the ice and snnk on Jmie 12, iSSi, in latitude 77° 
 15' X., longitude 155° IC. The crew dragged three 
 boats over the ice, reaching an island, which thev called 
 liennett Island, on July 29. The\- reached the Xew 
 Siberia I.slands on September 10, and on the twelfth set 
 out for the mouth of the Lena. The boats were .sepa- 
 rated in a gale on the same e\ening. One of the boats 
 was lost, but the one under hhigineer Melville made the 
 land of the Lena delta, and he ultimately reached Irkutsk, 
 where, getting assistance, he started out in search of 
 De Long, who had also landed. ICventually Melville di.s- 
 covered the dead bodies of De Long and two of his crew on 
 March 23, 1.SS3. They had died of hunger and exhau.stion. 
 At an international polar convention held in Hamburg, 
 1879, followed by another in vSt. Petersburg in iSSo, it 
 was resolved 1)\- the representatives of the nations of 
 Europe and .Vnierica to establish a nund:)cr of .stations, 
 
3'6 
 
 IN AFWrn SEAS. 
 
 \Vs 
 
 one or more by each nation, where s\nchronons observa- 
 tions shonhl l)e taken, bL'(^innin<,f Anj^nst, 18S2. AuRTica 
 sent two expeditions, one to Point ISarrow, oii the north- 
 ern sliores of Ahiska, under Lient. Ray, U. .S. A., and 
 one to Lady Franklin I>a\-, in hititnde Si" 44' X., 
 wliere the Dison-cyy had been in winter cjnarters in 
 i.S75-'76. On An^^nst 11, 1S81, the steamer /'lo/nis^ 
 after an nnnsnally snccessfnl trip, reached Lady iMank- 
 lin liay with a part\- consistin.s^ of Lient. (ireely and two 
 other lieutenants and twenty ser<;eants and privates of ihc 
 United States Army, accompanied 1)\ Dr. I'av\-. The 
 series of meteorolo<;ical and ma,t^netie observations aj^reed 
 \\\)o\\ were at once commenced and the winter passt-d wilh- 
 ont accident. In the snnnner of the followinjL,^ year sext-ral 
 detached parties were sent ont on cxplorin*^ expeditions, 
 one of them consi.stin*^ of Lient. Lockwood and vSerj^t. 
 Hrainard, travelinj;- alon.i; the northern coast of (rreen- 
 land and beyond nntil they reached a small island north 
 of this coast in latitude 83° 44' X., longitude 44" 5' \V., 
 the hij^hest north ever attained. The interior of (irin- 
 nell Land wa.s al.so explored, and a fiord discovered enter- 
 ing the land from the west. 
 
 A rescning parly failing to arrive, althongh expedi- 
 tions had been sent in 1SS2 and in 1SS3, both of which 
 failed to reach them, a retreat in boats was begun on 
 Angnst 9 of the latter year, with the expectation of fnul- 
 ing a relieving ves.scl in Smith vSonnd. They reached 
 Cape Sabine, where they were obliged to encamp for the 
 winter, on October 21, 1^83. Here the remnant of the 
 
THE PEARY REl.II'.E EXPEDITION. 
 
 5'7 
 
 
 party was rcscufd in the lullowiiiiL; \i-ar hy tlii.' .stcaiiuTS 
 'rihlis and tlu- Pcnr. They had ioiiud a cachi- dI" pro- 
 visions left at Capi- Sabine hy Xari-s in 1S-3, bnt wlicn 
 that was fxhanstcd a jK-riod of indc'scril)ahk' horror 
 ensncd. Licnts. (irccly and DancnhowL-r and fivt- others 
 were discovered in a tent jnst l)arel\- alive, and the 
 snrronndinj^ {graves a\id nnhnried dead told a j^hasth' 
 and frij^htfnl tale. 
 
 These two disasters followint^ so (|nickly one npon the 
 other promised to pnt an elTectnal stop to all far northern 
 exploration ; and from the time of the rescne of the snr- 
 vivors of the (ireely j)arty none of an\- importance was 
 undertaken nntil that of Lient. Peary, excepting'- only 
 that of Xansen, in iSSS. With four companions, st;:rt- 
 im^ from Kii)}^e I>ay, on the east coast of (ireenland. the 
 latter accomplished snccessfnlly aiul ])ro\ed the j)racti- 
 cability of the crossinj^ of and travelin*;;- npon the interior 
 ice-cap. They had no dran,i;ht animals, and draj.^»^.L;ed 
 all of their snpplies on sledges, and finally landed on the 
 west coast near (rodthaab. 
 
 The interest aronsed 1)y the success of Lient. Peary's 
 nndertakin.t,'- is world-wide. Xo less than three exi)edi- 
 tions are in project to depart next year, and it ma\ be 
 said, withont exaj^j^eration, that he has ansjncionsh- 
 opened a new era of polar enterprises. 
 

 III 
 
 ii 
 
 ji 
 
 'i 
 
T 11 1-: R i-:c !•: pt i <> \ 
 
 At tiiiv AiAKi'.MY III' Natikai, Si iI'.nc ks. -ThI'; 1nviti;i) 
 
 (fll'.STS. 
 
 ^y^IIIC followiiiji; distitij^uishfd people win- inviUfl to 
 -*- and iK';ul\- all attfiidc-d the icct-ptioii j^ixeu al its 
 hall (Loj;ati Squaii), oil September i S, i.S</2, 1)\ the 
 Acadetiu' of Xatural .Seii-uees to Lieut, and Mrs. I'earx' 
 and the meinhers of the Relief ICxpeditioii and ol" the 
 other Arctic expeditions of the .\eadeni\- : 
 
 AriiiiM. Cr.iwfdfd, 
 Ari'lialllbaiill. \'. 1'., 
 ArchamliauUA'. I"., Jr. 
 .\slihursi, Dr. Jdhii, 
 .Vshhurst, Rirh.ird I„, 
 .Vusliu, R. 1... 
 Haily, J.rI J., 
 Mainl. Henry Carey, 
 RaiKs. Col. Chas. II., 
 Maii^'li. Daiiitl, 
 liau^'li. .Saimicl, 
 Hay;ir<l. Hon. Tlios. 1"., 
 Meaver, Cii'ii. J. A., 
 Jkiller, A. M., Dir. of 
 
 rut.. ."^alVly. 
 liensdii, Ivdwiii N., 
 Ik-lts. Chas .M., 
 lU-lz, J. I-., 
 liiddlf, .Mex., 
 Middle, Arthur, 
 liiihllc, Heury \V., 
 HininKs,J<)hnS.,M I)., 
 
 r. S A. 
 liis])hain, Creorj.^e T., 
 Bladen, Mrs. !•;. .S., 
 lUaiikenlniri.;, Rudolph, 
 
 riii.irdnian. Rev. (i. !>., 
 I! m/ano, Maximilian 
 
 I"., 
 Horie, lU'auveau, 
 Bosl)y>hell, ( iliver C, 
 Hownian, Col. W. 1'., 
 Hoyir, Hon. H. K., 
 Brown, .Mexjiiider, 
 Brown, J. .\., Jr., 
 
 iirouil, Moses, 
 
 Brown, T. Wistar, 
 Bnekle\ , Ivlw. S., Jr. 
 Bnllill, J. C, 
 Burnliani, (leo., 
 Burnhain, (ieo., Jr. 
 Cadualader, Kiehard 
 
 MeCall, 
 Cainphell, J. J)., 
 Canii)l.ell. Miss M. A., 
 Carson, II. I.., 
 C.irtledj;e, Miss l\l'\/.n- 
 
 lielh, 
 
 C.issalt, .\Uxander J., 
 Caslner, Samuel Jr., 
 Chanitiers, Dr. J. I'., 
 Chandler, Th. 1'., 
 
 Chaunccy, e'harles, 
 ChihK, Cfor^e \V,, 
 Clauhorn, J R.i\ nioiid, 
 CI. irk, C ilo\\,'ird, 
 CI. irk, I'.dward S., 
 CUem.in, i.uilovii' C, 
 Cleemaii. Dr. R. A.. 
 Co.iics, I'idwanl H., 
 Coates. Ilenrv '1'., 
 Coehr.iii. Tr.ivis, 
 Cochran. T., 
 ColTiii. Lemuel, 
 Coll-,, I'Mw.ird, 
 Collins, I'red., 
 Coine.i,'y>, B. B., 
 Converse. J. II., 
 
 Cook, Joi'l. 
 Cooper, Col. C 
 Cooper, Hon. 'I'll. \'., 
 Copi-, .Mired, 
 Cope. Miss C, 
 Co]K.', .Miss C. Iv. 
 Corson, Rohirt K., 
 Coxe, BrinloM. 
 Coxe, I'iekley B.. 
 Coxe, i;. Rohert, 
 
 t 
 

 520 
 
 IN ARCT/C SHAS. 
 
 h' 
 
 I 
 
 CrissKii, < icorm- v., 
 Crilly, CkI. I'r.imis J., 
 Ciilliiiiin, Ciil. U. I"., 
 C'liiiMiii.uli.iiii, I'rtcr I'"., 
 CiiyUr, r. :K' Wilt, 
 I).il'..sla, Dr. J. M., 
 Dallam, it.iviil luii^- 
 
 lish, 
 Dallas, I Inn. (ii'ini,'!' 
 
 M.. 
 Dana, Clias. IC, 
 Darli\, iMamis T. 
 
 Siiliy, 
 Darrach, Dr. Jatiu'^, 
 Davis, I,. Cl.iikf. 
 Daviss(ii), I II. .\., 
 DicluTl, C.L'ii. KdlKii 
 
 1'., 
 Dv-vi'iiii\', Cli.is. I"., 
 Dioksoii, 1,. 'l.i\li>r, 
 Dickson, Saniiul, 
 DisKtoii, Hamilton, 
 Dni.m, Thomas, 
 Drcxfl, A. J., 
 Dro])sii', Mosi's .\., 
 Dntton, William Dal- 
 
 lil.a, 
 Klkins, Willi, im I,., 
 HI Hot, .\. r,., 
 I-Uis, J. It., 
 Ivrrin:.;!-!', J. \,., 
 Kverhart, I?. M., 
 I'VhiniT, Charles C, 
 1-Vll, J. R., 
 
 I'VtiiToir, .v. II., 
 
 I'iild, Hon. J. T., 
 l-illiiMt. Dt.I.uilwiKS., 
 Fitk-r, Hon. Iv. S., 
 IMick, Kawrcnii', .M.I) 
 Toss, Rev C. I) , 
 l-oulki-, J. Rohfrls, 
 I'raley, I'Vi-d., 
 I'nrness, H. H., 
 (;oo(kll, Dr. Wm 
 Goodell, Dr Wm. C 
 
 (inndwin. William, 
 ( ".raham, I Ion. ( li'o.S , 
 ('.Mj^ory, Dr. H. D., 
 ( '■riscom, Cli'nu'nl II., 
 II.ukiT, CharK-s, 
 Ilaikir, Willi. ini, 
 Ilanus, C. W., 
 Ilaiiu-^, Mrs. Jane R., 
 IIallowi-11, Mrs.S.C.I'., 
 Ilallowi'll, Miss J. I'., 
 Il.inioik, (".. C, 
 Il.irl.m, Dr. ('.. C. 
 I I.irdin;,', ( 1., 
 Harris, J. S. , 
 Harrison, (J. C, 
 Hart, ISyirly, 
 ll.irl, Thomas, Jr., 
 Harlsliorni', Chark's, 
 Harviy, .\. I'., 
 HaslinLjs, (kn. I). II,, 
 Hays, i. Minis, .M. D. 
 Ila/khnrst, H , 
 Hi-ad, Mrs. Ivli/.. 
 H(.-a<l, Mrs. Harriet, 
 IK'aly. Dr. J. J , 
 lU'i'lmir, Charles, 
 IKiiry, C. W , 
 Henry, J. H., 
 Henry, M. I'., 
 Hersty, Ivl., Jr. 
 Hewitt, CV. W , 
 Hewitt, W. I)., 
 Ilollinj^sworth, S. ('.., 
 Ilolme.s, Miss M.S., 
 Honston, W C , Jr. 
 Howe, Dr. II., 
 Howell, /.ojihar I,an- 
 
 niiiK, 
 Hunt, Dr. William, 
 Hnllmrt, Rev. Dr 
 
 Merritt, 
 Hntlon, .\fldison, 
 Ingham, Dr. James V.. 
 In,L;ham, Willi.ini A., 
 Injfham, Wm. H., 
 
 ln;jersoll, CliarKs I'.d- 
 
 w.inl, 
 j.mies, I'r,,f. 1;. J., 
 |, unison, It. R., 
 J.islrow, Rev. M., 
 Jayne.I lenry I.i'lt.irn-, 
 J.iyiie, Dr. Hoiae.', 
 Jenkins, Tlieodori' 1'., 
 Johnson, John ( ■., 
 Jones, Charles Henry, 
 Jones, Joseph I,., 
 Joyep, William H., 
 Judsoii, Dr. <). .\., 
 Jusliee, Willi, im W., 
 Kiefe, Jos. I., 
 Keen, Dr. Charles, 
 Keim, (k'orj^e Dilt., 
 Keller, Dr Ida A., 
 Kern, William II., 
 Kernan, I'eter 1' , 
 Kromcr, Miss I,., 
 Krmnhhaar. C. H., 
 I.amlxlin, Dr. Alfred 
 
 C, 
 Lambert, John, 
 kaiidell, Ijlwin .\., 
 I.andrclh, liurnetl, 
 l.ankenan J. 1), 
 kal'lace. Dr. Iv, 
 Latla, (k-n. W. J., 
 Lea, Henry C, 
 I.eamiii).^, Thomas, 
 I.eiily, Dr. Jos., Jr. 
 Lewis, Knoch, 
 Lewis, (ieorj^e T , 
 Le WIS, Miss Ciraoeanna, 
 Lewis, I'erey M., 
 Lewis, Robert M.. 
 Lihhey, Wm., Jr , 
 Lil)l)iiu'ott, Crai>{, 
 Lippineott, J. H., 
 Lloyd, M.ik-olm, 
 Loekwood, Wm. K., 
 Lon.Hslreth. Dr. M., 
 Loj.-an, A, S , 
 
 I 
 
 Ji 
 
i 
 
 I 
 
 1^ 
 
 ,^ 
 
 ?l 
 
 ^ 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 \. 
 
 >S 
 
 ^^ % ,o 
 ^ i 1^ ^. 
 
 N 
 
 :~v 
 
 >t^ 
 
m 
 
 III"' 
 
 I 
 
Tllli PI'. ANY RELIEF EXPEDITION 
 
 523 
 
 f I 
 
 I.dj^aii, I Inn. J. A 
 
 Morris, ICfrni^hain H., Rlioails, Miss lUiilah, 
 
 k 
 
 rl-, c. r. 
 
 I,i)ii),'hliii,Ktv. Jas. I"., Morris, Harrison S., RiUr, Hon. I". M. 
 I.yiidall, Miss Iv. M., Morris, I. \V., 
 MiAKer, Hon. Wui., Morris, Dr, J.C. 
 'leCldhin, Dr. C. 
 McClurf, Col. A K. 
 
 Rolierls, Israil, 
 -Morion, Dr. Tli. S. K., Roi^irs, CliarKs R.. 
 
 Muckk', Col. M. R., 
 
 R( 
 
 Col. J. I. 
 
 McConni.ll, Rev 
 
 S.D. Mnhr, Simon, 
 
 MiDononKli, M 1" 
 
 Mvlik-rl/, I". 1" 
 
 Mi-Ivlwxll, Chit r V.w- New 
 
 l.ol.l, CUnKiil n. 
 
 j^int-er J.i'k'- 
 McKf.in, 'I'll., 
 .Ml I.on^lili 
 
 Noiris, I)r Is.iac, 
 Norris, Dr. Wni. 1" 
 
 I.ilwanl ollriin. 
 
 A. H, 
 
 Roth, I'rof. I". , 
 Rsan.Ri.L^ht Rrv J.l'., 
 Rvfrss, Roln-rt W., 
 .SailiM', I. I'., 
 .S.innul, jolin D , 
 Sarl.iiii, Miss I'.niils- I. 
 
 (iHara, I ir. Michail, Scliinii.f, jac-o 
 
 McMasti r, I'rof. Janus I'a-'k.inl, I )i . Ji 
 
 Scott, Hon. y 
 
 liaclu 
 
 !' 
 
 l'.,'C 
 
 S. i)avi- 
 
 Si 
 
 •a, i.iw. 
 
 McMicliacl, W.iltcr, I'arrisli. Joscj)!!, 
 
 Richanl I'arsons, James, 
 
 H. 
 
 Mc.Mnrlric, 
 
 :m 
 
 I'alttrsoii, Hon. R , 
 h^ Hon. I'.iltcrson, C. Smart, 
 
 W, 
 
 ratlisoii, Hon, 
 
 R. l' 
 
 M( A'ic 
 .McWadc, R 
 
 Rev 
 
 \v. .v. 
 
 I'.itll, 
 
 W., 
 
 Scolt, Willi: 
 Scull, Davi.l, 
 S'iss, C. I'tw. 
 S( iss, R, V J. .\, 
 Sellers, Coll iii.in, 
 Sellers, Colcin iii, 
 
 Jr. 
 
 I'aal, J.inus \V., Jr. Sellers, I; 
 
 W, 
 
 Mai 
 Maittaii 
 
 Malone 
 M.ilki le 
 
 ■IiUosli, Ri\. I. S, 1". ml, John Roiiinan, Seller- 
 
 W 
 
 I, Miss \'ir 
 
 Martin, 
 
 Sheltoll, i 1 1\ 
 
 I'eiirosi, C. I'.., M D. Shfii ,iril. 1 iirinaii. 
 
 Ci 11. John, 
 M.irsh.iU, Hr. J., 
 Martin, Dr. i'dwaril 
 
 I'ellli 
 \\-Y\v 
 
 . Dr. K A. I- 
 i)r Williini 
 
 SlllI.l'V, 
 
 >,iii,m 
 
 R. 
 
 Martin 
 
 Dr 
 
 Martin, Smioii 
 
 .M 
 
 i\ 
 
 R 
 
 y 
 
 Meade, Col. < '.eori 
 
 INle.uar; 
 Mei-s, 
 
 ■IJ 
 
 Di 
 
 l'e]i]ier, William I'l 
 I'eioi, I'. .Morris, 
 
 I'hiUels, ( -.lo., 
 
 riiillijis, H., Jr, 
 I'iiisol, Dr (', A., 
 i'lalt, I'llarles, 
 I'orler, Dr Win. C, 
 I'otis, Willi. im J., 
 
 SI; 
 
 Mioilnil 
 
 .Mi" M. !•: 
 
 N. r 
 
 sir. 
 
 olm I 
 
 Sinuerh. Win M., 
 
 Siiikl. : IM- W., 
 Slo,iii, I'loi. W .M. 
 
 Smith. 
 Sniitli. 
 
 .Million. 
 
 Merrick, J. V , 
 Milclull J. K 
 
 .M. 
 
 Smith. R 
 
 Milhr, 
 Mitch. 
 Mont'' 
 
 i'v..r. 1,. w , 
 
 11, Dr S Wiir. 
 
 rn-sion, t ; R., 
 I'n \"sl, Siithi il.iiiil Smith. W <• 
 Sniilli. I .ell 
 
 M 
 
 I'l ill 
 
 Th 
 
 I, 
 
 'rimtnas C 
 Charles !v 
 
 W M, I" 
 
 Snowclell, < a II. I • R. 
 
 .Ml 
 
 lit; 
 
 imi I v . 'Idionris K 
 
 S]>ellis\ 
 Sl-ell 
 
 Dr. Jos .M. 
 
 ls\ . 
 
 1! 
 
 Mor.iis, R 
 
 Morn 
 
 11, !•; de V 
 
 \< 
 
 ,h W. 1.1 
 
 \e~ I'l. ml 
 ij.li.r Mis. 
 
 Sjii ncer. 
 
 11 . 
 
 Im T, 
 
 .\ui 
 
 UIH- 
 
 iMorris, Dr Caspei, 
 
 Rhawii, Willi. im H. 
 
 SteailK . I \. 
 Steele. 1mI\..iI 
 Sti< le, H .M , 
 
J 
 
 5^4 
 
 IN ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 i 
 
 sum. S. A., 
 StLnvanlson, Jdliii, 
 vSUwanlsijii, 'I'liuiiias, 
 Stewart, Hoii.Wiii. I"., 
 Stillc, Prof. Cli.J.. 
 Stihiiij^, Ivlm., 
 St.Hldart, J. M , 
 .StoiK', I'n'dftick I)., 
 St< )t<.st )ii ry . I 'M \va ri I'l". , 
 Strawl)riil!.a',J(iNliis C, 
 Stuart, IIou.I'Mwiii ,S., 
 Sullivan, JtriMiiiah J., 
 Sullivan, JdIiii, 
 Sul/,l)t--riier, .M., 
 S\vti,L;aril, J. A , 
 Tatliani, William I' , 
 Thayir, lion. M. R., 
 'I'hayiT, ( '.LU K\issi.'ll, 
 Thomas, Dr. C. H., 
 Thomas, Dr. Chas. M , 
 Thomas, I'r.ink, 
 Thom.is, CivorKc, 
 Thom]psi)ii. I'K.'". Rol)- 
 
 crl I'.Uis, 
 Thomson, Dr. Win., 
 Til,t;liinan, Ik-nj. C , 
 Tili;hman,Rii.'lianl A., 
 
 Tol.inil, Ivlwanl D., 
 Towur, CharlcinaiLjni', 
 
 TownsiMid, Joseph H., 
 Trotter, C. W., 
 Troulnian, CV. M , 
 Tryon, >Tiss A. S., 
 Tyson, Iv'A'.inl T. 
 \'au\, J. \\ ., 
 Walk, Dr. J W., 
 Wallvr, Miss Ivur.na, 
 Walton, J. S , 
 War!)urt<>n, Col. C 1'., 
 WaTcn, (iin. I,. II , 
 Warwick, CharKs 1"., 
 Watson, Janus \'., 
 Wfij^htman, William, 
 Wii-htman, Mrs. Wil- 
 liam, Jr., 
 Wiil, I'Mwanl 11., 
 Wilsh, I'd ward I,., 
 Wilsh, Htrlicrl, 
 Wt-'slcryaard. Lars, 
 Wttherill, Chark's, 
 VVey^andt, C. M,, 
 White, II., 
 While, Richard I'., 
 
 Widenir, r. A. B., 
 Wiidersheini, 'i'hco- 
 
 dore K., 
 Williams, Talcott, 
 Williams, Miss I, I,.. 
 Willson, Hon. Rol>ert 
 
 N., 
 Wilson, J( iseph M ., 
 Willhank, W. W., 
 Windsor, J. D., 
 Winsor, William D., 
 Wistar, I'dward M., 
 Wistar, Dr. Thorn, is, 
 Wisier, Mrs. A C, 
 Wisler, Roclman, 
 Wi>ter. W. Kotch. 
 Wister, W Wyun.-, 
 Worniely, Dr. Tlu-o. 
 
 (■.., 
 Wood, R. I'rancis, 
 Wood, ( leo. , 
 Wood, Richard, 
 Wood, Wdliam iv, 
 Wright, C. H., 
 Wright, Wni. H., 
 Wnrts. (■ S., 
 Yarnell, ICUis, 
 
 f