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WA II ill !|lili n ^fli|P U(ra llpa 1 « r^'^ ! a I; , HAND-BOOK ' FOR THE f •" ' CITY OF MONTREAL AND ITS ENVIRONS, PREPARED FOR THE MEETING OF THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION FOR THE ADVANCEMENT OF SCIENCE, AT MONTREAL, AUGUST, 1882. BY A MEMBER OF THE LOCAL COMMITTEE. MONTREAL: PUBLISHED FOR THE LOCAL COMMITTEE. 1882. Entered according to Act of Parlifment by S. E. Dawson in the Office of the Minister of Aprl ultiire in the year 1882. PRINTED BY THE GAZETTE PRINTING COMPANY, CONTENTS. The Province of Quebec— General Sketch The City of Montreal—General Sketch Hotels Conveyances • • • Restaurants "■ • • . Reading Rooms . • • . Money Post Office * ' • . Commerce — foreign trade Lachine Canal — inland trade Railways • • • . Victoria Bridge • • • Manufactures • • . , Water Works • • • « Parks and Squares .... Public Buildings • • • Churches Benevolent Institutions Educational Institutions PAGE. 1 15 . • 25 • . 27 • • 28 . • 29 . • 29 • • 29 • • 30 • • 35 • . 38 • . 41 • • 44 • • 46 . . 46 • . 53 • • 67 • . 77 « • 86 IV. CONTENTS. Libraries Music Painting tSciENCB Amusements EXCURSIONS. Mount Royal Cemetery Catholic Cemetfry Mountain Drive Sault-au-Recollet Lachinb • • Lachine Rapids Belceil To Quebec by Bte/mer To Ottawa by Railway To Lake Memphrbmagog PAGE. 110 111 114 116 117 126 126 126 127 127 127 129 129 133 136 MAPS. Geological Map of the Vicinity of Montreal. Map of the City. THE PROVINCE OP QUEBEC. The province of Quebec is the oldest by far of all the provinces of the Confederation. It has always had for strangers a singular charm, and the history of its early days surpasses in interest that of any other colony or province in America. Many histo- rians, native and foreign, have endeavoured to do justice to the romantic incidents of those early times, and the traveller who may be curious to learn further of them would do well to consult the histories of Miles, Ferland, Gameau, and especially the glow- ing pages of Francis Parkman. Our task is upon the lower levels of geography and statistics, and we can do little more than indicate the authorities which lie ready to the hand of any inquirer. The northern boundary of the province of Quebec is the height of land which divides the waters flow- ing northwards into Hudson's Bay from those which flow into the St. Lawrence. This line continues westwards until it reaches a point forty-five miles due north of Lake Temiscaming, on the Ottawa. Thence the western boundary starts, and, proceed- ing due southwards, it passes through the lake and jj 2 BOUNDARIES OF QUEBEC. foUowb the mid-channel of the Ottawa river until it reaches the village of Point Fortune, upon the western bank. There leaving the Ottawa, the western boundary strikes through the country to the St. Lawrence, at Eiver Beaudotte. This corner, which would seem properly to bv3long to Ontario, was reserved to the ancient province of Quebec, because, when Ontario, or Upper Canada, was separated in 1791 as a distinct province, the Seigni- o?'ies of Yaudrcuil, Nouvelle Longuouil, Soulanges, and Eigaud had been erected by the King of France, and were settled by Frenchmen, whose existing laws and customs the English Government, as bound by the Act of 1Y74, respected. In the compara- tively unsettled country to the west, the province of Ontario was created under English laws, and colonized by English-speaking settlers. Upon the south, Quebec is bounded by the line of 45° north latitude, until it reaches New Hamp- shire, when, turning to the north-east, the boundary line follows a meandering course until it reaches the province of In ew Brunswick. This part of the boundary is indescribable by the pen, and the prin- ciples by which it was traced are unknown to colonists. It disfigui'es the map upon which it remains, a continual witness to the imbecility of Lord Ashburton, and the most serious of the many Imperial capitulations in North America. A glance at the map will satisfy the intelligent toui^ist as to the profound incapacity of the Imperial negotia- tors. L _.^ PHYSICAL FEATURES. 3 Upon the oast, the iHlands of Anticosti aad the Magdalen Group are within the Government of Quebec. A line drawn due north from Anse au Sablon, near the Straits of Belleisle, on tLi Labrador coast, until it intersects the northern boundary, marks the eastern limit of the province. The remaining portion of Labrador belongs to New- foundland. The physical features of Quebec which strike the tourist are those of an alluvial plain stretching upon both sides of the Eiver St. Lawrence, at varying distances, to the Laurentian Mountains on the north, and the Notre Dame, and Green Mountains, and the Adirondacks on the south. The first named range approach the shores of the Lower St. Lawrence very closely, and add a solemn and impressive grandeur to the scenery. Near Quebec they recede, and the rich and fertile valley continuously opens out, widening to the westward to the broad level country of Ontario. From the Montreal Mountain, on a clear day, these opposing ranges can be seen in the blue distance on the north and south, separated by the wide stretch of alluvial soil below. The Laurentian chain of mountains r.owhere attains to a very great height. Mont Eboulemens, on the St. Lawrence, is 2,547 feet high. Some of the rlJges farther in the interior, are stated to be 4,000 feet. Trembling Mountain, in the county of Argenteuil, is given by the officers of the Geological Survey as 2,060 feet, but generally the height does not exceed 1,500 feet. The >•• : ole of the Laurentian country, 4 PHYSICAL FEATURES. as far as the watershed of Hudson's Bay, consists geologically of early crystalline rocks. The hills are all worn into rounded forms ; for this is the most ancient part of the continent of Amei'ica. The waves of the Silurian sea washed against these hills when but two small islands represented the remaining part of the present contiiiCnt. In the crystalline limestones of this region lived the Eozoon Canadense, earliest of all known forms of animal life. In the same limestones graphite frequently occurs, and the whole Laui'cntian formation abounds in iron ores of great purity. The country is studded with innumerable lakes, tempting the sportsman with their abundance of fish. Over a thousand lakes are laid down in the published maps of this region, and these are the never-failing sources of many large rivers ; for all the largest tributaries of the St. Lawrence are from the north. In the valleys of these countless streams and lakes are tracts of fertile land, while the dense forest which covers it supplies the timber which is the chief export of Quebec. South of the St. Lawrence the Kotre Dame Moun- tains follow the shore of the river nearly as far as Father Point, whence, turning to the south-west, they at last mingle with the Green Mountains of Vermont. They attain in some places a height of 3,000 to 4,000 feet. The highest points are near the Lower St. Lawrence, and are sure to attract the attention of a stranger entering by the river. The bold bluffs of Cape Chatte and St. Anne are very RIVEES OF QUEBEC. striking objects from the deck of a steamer, for the usual course ot the mail ships is close to this most rugged shore. The geological structure of those hilLi is later than that of the Laui'entides, and has been considered, together with the country between them and the St. Lawrence, to belong to the base of the Silurian system. The Chaudidre river, in whoso stream gold is found in paying quantities, takes its rise in these hills ; and in this formation the copper mines of Quebec are chiefly found. The character of the country from the river to their base is level and fertile, but as the hills are ap- proached the scenery becomes very varied and rugged. The province of Quebec is a land abounding in large rivers. The great St. Lawrence flows through it with a breadth varying from one mile, a little above Montreal, to twenty miles at Cacouna, and forty miles near Point des ^' onts, which may be considered i\8 the entrance to the Gulf Flowing into it from xhe north, we have space to particular- ise only the larger streams. The gloomy Saguenay, from 300 to 400 miles long ; the St. Maurice, which has a still longer course j the Ottawa, nearly 600 miles, with its tributaries — the Gatineau, the Lidvre andtheEouge — all three very large streams. From the south, the Eichelieu, a large and beautif al river, bringing the waters of Lakes George and Cham- plain; the Chaudidre, and the St. Francis. Besides these there are numberless streams of minor im- portance in a river system such as this, but which b CLIMATE. would rank in volume with many of the more celebrated streams of the old world. The Assump- tion, the Loup rivers, upper and lower, the Chateau- guay, the North river, and the Etchemin, are all rivers ot importance. Quebec can boast of none of those great inland seas which are the chief features of the western provinces. Some of the lakes are, however, of considerable size. Lake St, John has an area of 360 square miles, and Lake Temiscaming 126 miles ; but in the immense number of its lakes and their great natural beauty, Quebec is insur- passed. Tourists, who arrive for the most part in the summer months, will probably be surprised to encounter an almost tropical heat in those "/ei^ square miles of snow " so carelessly ceded to the British crown by a frivolous Fi'ench monarch. A few T/ords will, therefore, be appropriate concern- ing the climate. The isothermal line of mean annual temperature at Montreal passes also through Leipzic in Saxony. The mean temperatui-e in sum- mer is the same as that of Orleans in France, and the mean winter temperature resembles that of Moscow in Eussia. The heat is sufficient in summer to bring wheat, Indian corn, tomatos, and the hardier kinds of grapes, to perfection ; and the cold in winter some- times reaches 20° below zero. Then, however, the soil is covered with a thick mantle of snow ; the frost does not penetrate deeply, and the roots of plants are secure from injury until the heats of _Mi WINTER IN QUEBEC. T spring retura with their sudden and magical power. An Englishman accustoiued to the lingering and reluctant spring of Great Britain, is astonished at the swiftness of the change. It can scarcely be said that there is a spring season in Quebec, the fields put off their white livery and don the tender green hues of early summer so quickly under the powerful sun and clear skies of our northern latitude. Vege- tation advances with great rapidity, for the melting of the frost and snow pulverises the soil and pi-epares it for the seed. One simple fact will, however, give a more certain indication of climate, and that is that maize is a regular and certain crop in nearly the whole province of Quebec, a plant which will not ripen in England, and will barely ripen in the north of France. The winters have, therefore, no detrimental effect upon vegetation, nor are they considered unpleasant by strangers visiting the country at that season. The air is dry and the skies clear. There are no fogs, no raw damp winds, so wearing to invalids. Many from the seaboard with pulmonary complaints have come to reside during the winter at Quebec or Montreal, for here, as at Minnesota in the west, the clear and steady weather is beneficial in such com- plaints. The sleighs, which make their appearance usually about the first week in December, are not put away until the following April, and the steady cold seldom relaxes during the whole season. The people still enjoy many out-door amusements, and curling, snow-shoeing, sleigh-driving, toboganning, 8 POPULATION. and skating, are the pastimes of winter. The mighty St. Lawrence is bound fast under the potent spell of frost from the lakes to below Quebec city. Eoads are everywhere made upon the ice, and the farmers bring in their teams, in long lines across the frozen waters, heavily laden with their autumn treasures of hay and corn. The ice roads are always marked out by spruce trees stuck in the snow. A visitor in winter is sure to be impressed with the weird scene in early morning or evening, when, from a sky as warm with rosy tints as in midsummer, the level beams of sunlight, glancing and brightening over the sea of g^uiet snowy fuiTows, and glittering icy crests, strike along the line of evergreens, mark- ing the ice roads, upon the train of sleighs, and light up the tinned roofs and steeples of the dis- tant city with brilliant splendour. Our province, though shorn of its ancient dimen- sions by the Act of 1*791, which constituted Upper Canada, and by the lamentable weakness of the Imperial Government in its various capitulations to the United States, still contains 210,020 square miles, and is barely exceeded by British Columbia, which, with Yancouver Island, contains 10,000 square miles more. The province of Ontario is less in area by 90,000 square miles, and the other pro- vinces are yet much smaller. In regard to population, Quebec is, however, excelled by the sister province of Ontario; the figures being 1,359,027 in Quebec, to 1,923,228 in ■■OBBI ^m THE FRENCH RACE. 9 Ontario. Of this number 1,0^3,820 are of French origin, in the province of Quebec alone. These figures showing the preponderance of the French race in Quebec lead naturally to a short sketch of the history of the province, a considera- tion of which can alone explain our present insti- tutions. Although discovered by Jacques Cartier in 1535, and visited ap^ain by him in 1536, it was not until 1608 that the in'st settlement was made. This was at the present city of Quebec. The true father of Canada was Samuel de Champlain, a man of rare practical talent, of great constancy and courage, and of lofty mol^al character. He was sent out by a company of associated noblemen of France, primarily for the purpose of opening up a trade with the Indians for peltries, and secondly for the purpose of opening up a new field for the Christian religion. It is necessary to dwell specially upon the religious side of the foundation of the colony in order to understand its history. The Eoman Catholic religion was then in the full tide of that enthusiasm which caused the counter refor- mation, and devoted men and women poured out their lives and treasure with cheerfulness in the effort to spread its doctrines upon distant shores. Hence it was that \ ar many years the colony of Finance took feeble hold upon the soil of Canada. It was more a trading and a missionary station than a plantation. The Eecollet Fathers in 1615, and the Jesuits in 1625, threw them&olves into the missionary work, encouraged by Champlain, who, I 10 EARLY SETTLEMENT. being a very earnest Catholic, concerned himself deeply in their efforts. Des Monts, Chauvin, and many of the early patrons of the colony were Huguenots ; but from the very first it was stipulated that although the Huguenots might share in the profits of trade, the conversion of the Indians was to be left entirely with the Eoman Catho- lics. Later in 1627, when the company of one hundred associates was formed, Mcntmorenci sold his rights to his nephew deLevis, due de Yen- tadour, a devout member of a monastic order. Then it was stipulated that none of the set- tlers which the associates engaged to carry out to Canada should be other than Catholic, and the religious zeal of tho devout Catholics of old Finance was more ea-nestly directed to Canada. Noblemen and ladies, 3 well as priests, threw themselves into the effort, and the foundations of institutions were laid which exist to the present day almost unchanged. Then followed in quick succession the educational establishments of the TJrsulines, of the Eecollets, of the Jesuits, of the Congregation of Ladies of Notre Dame, for the religious training of the savage tribes. The French colonists identified their fortunes with the Huron and Algonquin tribes, which they found in the country, and thus imperilled for many years their existence in a long and deadly struggle with the rising power of the Iroquois confederation. A remnant of the Huron tribe still remains at Old Lorette, near Quebec, while the Pequods, the Nar- mi RELIGIOUS ENTHUSIASM. 11 ragansetts, and other aboriginal tribes of New England have been utterly exterminated. The colony of New France then was founded upon a religious basis, in the same manner as were the colonies of New England. It is, however, a matter of pride to the Canadian that the soil c^f New France was never polluted by the footsteps of the familiars of the inquisition, who loaded with infamy the annals of New Spain. Nor have our historians ever to blush for deeds such as the fathers of New England perpetrated towards those who differed from them in religious belief While in the colony of Plymouth men and women were hung for being Quakers, while others were imprisoned and pilloried for suspicion of Anabaptism, Prelacy, or Eomanism, while the gloomy superstition of Salem witchcraft swept off its victims by dozens, the only blood, shed in Canada for the Christian faith was the blood of its martyr missionaries. They were ready to shed blood for their belief, but it was their own blood ; they were ready to pour out life, but it was their own lives. These are matters of history ; to touch on questions of religion is not the province of the writer of a guide book. In the pages of Parkman the deeds and the laith of these men are recounted with a vigour and im- partiality which does him honour, and with an eloquence worthy of his theme. If at this present time the French race manifests a vitality in Canada as mysterious *o its enemies as to the Frenchman of the France of to-day, it is because of the imperish- 12 CONQUEST OP CANADA. able power of the ecT-sacrifice and heroism of so many of those men, laymen as well as clerics, who planted the standaixl of France on the shores of the Eiver St. Lawrence. Passing, as not essential to our present pirrpc5«&, the history of the next hundred years, the struggles with the Iroquois, and the wars with the Eritish colonies to the south, in which jvere achieved many gallant enterprises and were perpetrated many cruel deeds of blood upon both sides ; passing over also the adventurous establishment of trading posts in the far west and north-west, and the bold voyages of La Salle and Hennepin, we come to the period when France and England prepared to fight the battle h Voutrance upon the shores and in the forests of the new world. The thirteen colonies then numbered three millions, backed by large bodies of troops from England. Canada barely numbered 60,000 souls, and was very fitfully sup- ported by the French monarchy, then in the last days of its decadence. Yet, great as the odds appeared to be against the Canadians, the vigour and consummi*te ability of the men who ruled were more than equal to the emergency, until the last crowning effort of the English. In 1750 the war commenced. Braddock was disgracefully beaten by a handful of men, Abercrombie was defeated by one fifth of his number, Oswego surrendered with disgrace, the horrid tragedy of Fort William Henry was enacted, and the year 1*75*7 saw the French victorious along the whole line of their border. t CONQUEST OF CANADA. 13 With 17v'8 the tide of war turned. Louisbourg on the east, and Frontenac on the west, fell into Eng- lish hands ; but although the genius of Wolfe and Amherst wielded the British power, resistance was obstinate. The btruggle was long and doubtful at Quebec. The defeat of Montcalm did not neces- sitate, however, the surrender of the city, for in a very few weeks the approaching winter would have compellea the British to re-embark. Montcalm's trusted officers, deLevis and Bougainville, were absent, and in the dismay which followed on his death Quebec was surrendered. Scarcely had the British fleet left when the English ga.Tison found itself besieged by deLevis with the troops from Montreal and new militia levies. The siege lasted all winter. lu early spring the British General Murray marched out to give deLevis battle, but was defeated at St. Foy, and confined within the walls of Quebec. The knell of French dominion had, however, been struck. The opening of navigation brought the English fleet once more, and Murray was succoured. DeLevis retired to make a last stand at Montreal, which, slowly, the three English armies under Amherst, Murray and Haviland, advanced to besiege. On September 8th, 1760, the capitulation was signed, by which Canada passed over to the British Crown. It is upon the conditions of this capitulation and of the treaty of peace which followed in 176? and upon the celebrated Quebec Act of 1774, that the laws, language, and religion of France are still established. 14 CONQUEST OF CANADA. 80 firmly in this province. It is around those bi'-il- li'^nt records of their history that the national feel- ing of the French Canadian loves to linger, and the devoted livob of the early mi«=«8ionaries still feed the flame of devotion in the Lower Canadian heart. Wo have no space to sketch even an outline of the remaining history. How for fifteen years the sceptre of universal empire paused within reach of England's grasp, and how she failed to seize it, the histories of the loyalists of New Brunswick and Ontario will abundantly relate. The stor^- of their history is full of interest, and the reader may con- sult the larger works for the details. r k l:f£ ma^smm v^ a> THE CITY OP MONTREAL. The city of Montreal, the chief city of Canada, although not the seat of Government even of its own province of Quebec, is situated upon the south- east side of a triangular island formed by the mouths of the Ottawa, where, after a course of 600 miles, it debouches into the St. Lawrence. The city is built upon the left or northern bank of the St. Lawrence. The clear blue water of that river and the more turbid stream of the Ottawa meet near Montreal at so acute an angle that their waters do not mingle, but the lino of junction may be traced for many miles below, the St. Lawrence water washing the right hand and the Ottawa the left hand bank. The population of the city is 140,^47 of whom '78,684 are of French and 28,995 of Irish origin. As to religion 103,5^9 are Roman Catholics. The last census which was taken in 1881 shows an increase of 33,522 in the preceding ten years. The total population of the Island 's 193,1*71. The estimated value of the real estate is 65,978,- 930 dollars, and the present municipal taxes amount to $7.50 per head of the population. The length of the city is three and a half miles, and its breadth is two miles. It is narrowed, however, by Mount Eoyal, which, forming its chief ornament, rises boldly in rear of the city. Suburban towns and CKOLOr.irAL MAIM)F THK HKC-ION AKOIuM) MONTHKAL Scale 12 miles to 1 inch '•<• Iwlmnt UlKCaktontrMI .rr-:^. 16 FOUNDING OP MONTREAL. villages, ^snch as St. Cunegonde, St. Jean-Baptisu, St. Henri and Hochelaga, are spreading out fast, and the mountain will shortly be surrounded by contiguous buildings. Every visitor arriving by the river must notice the Custom House, a handsome triangular building of gray stone, upon the river front, with its apex pointing eastwards, and a clock upon the east- ern tower. This marks a triangular piece of ground which, in old days, was formed by a little stream falling there into the main river. Upon this spot, on the 18th of May, 1642, Paul de Chomedey, Sieur de Maisonneuve, laid the founda- tions of Yille- Marie de Montr Sal, and here was planted that grain of mustard seed which, in the words of the enthusiastic Yimont, would soon grow and overshadow the land. The story of the found- ing of Montreal is well toid by Parkman, but we have space for only a short extract : — *' Maisonneuve sprang ashore, and fell on his knees. His followers imitated his example ; and all joined their voices in enthusiastic songs of thanks- giving. Tents, baggage, arms and stores, were landed. An altar was raised on a pleasant spot near at hand; and Mademoiselle Mance, with Madame de la Peltrie, aided by her servant Char- lotte Barre, decorated it with a taste which was the admiration of the beholders. ;N"ow all the company gathered before the shrine. Here stood Yimont in the rich vestments of his office. Here were the two ladies with their servant, Montmagny, no very willing spectator; and Maisonneuve, a warlike figui^e, erect and tall, his men clustering around Jv FOUNDING OF MONTREAL. 17 him. They kneeled in reverent silence as the Host was raised aloft ; and when the rite was over, the priest turned and addressed them — ' You are a grain of mustard seed, that shall rise and grow till its branches overshadow the earth. You are few, but your work is the work of God. His smile is on you, and your children shall fill the land.' " The main point to be remembered in connection with the early settlement of Montreal is, that it was the result of religious enthusiasm. That is shown by the name Ville- Marie , the original name of the city. It was an attempt to found in America a veritable " Kingdom of God," as understood by devout Eoman Catholics. The expedition was fit- ted out in France solely for that pui^jDOse, and the inception of the enterprise has many romantic particulars of "voices and revelations " and *' pro- vidential occurrences'* by which the zeal of its founders was bupported and stinulated. They had need for all their enthusiasm, and opportunity for its exercise against the powerful Ii'oquois tribes, who determined to extinguish the infant settlement in the blood of the settlers. The character of Mai- sonneuve was a d '^ble one. The people of Montreal have not, however, commemorated him as he de- serves. Many of their streets and squares *»,re named after obscure salr^ts and obscurer sinners; or after people whose merits will be undiscoverable by the future historian. Politicians Ie abundance are commemorated who are now in theii' graves, where it is to be hoped their works do not follow them; but there are no worthy mementos of 18 GEOLOGY OF MONTREAL. Champlain, Maisonneuve, or deTracy ; of Vimont, Lallemand, or Brebeuf ; of La Salle, of Hennepin, of Marquette ; or of hundreds of other brave and devoted men who trod the streets of the old city. We have entered into their labours, and their memcvies ought to be perpetuated in the names of oui' prominent streets and squares. The city of Montreal is built upon a series of terraces which mark the former levels of the river, or of the ancient sea which washed the bases of the Laui'entian hills to the north. The geological formation is Siluiian, the surface rock being Tren- ton limestone. In rear of the mountain the Trenton limestone comes to the surface, and it is from these beds that the grey stone is procured of which the city is chiefly built. Along the margin of the river black shales of a higher formation, the Utica, appear. The Island of Montreal exhibits no less than six different formations in the Lower Silurian. At St. Anne's, the western extremity, is the Pots- dam sandstone. In that locality those curious per- forations may be seen supposed to be worm burrows. Close to the Potsdam, near the railway station, the Oalciferous formation comes up in a good locality for fossils. At the next station, Point Claire, the Chazy has a very extensive exposure; the stone for the Victoria Bridge was quarried there. A short distance further east the Black Eiver limestone comes vp, and at Montreal the Trenton limestone and Utica shales appear. The mountain which rises up behind the city consists of trap rock, VIEW FROM MOUNT ROYAL. 19 which has forced its way through the limestone lying against it. Mount Koyal, from which the city derives its name, rises YOO feet above the river level. Fi^om its summit the whole Silm*ian plain spreads out in a panorama, broken only by the trap mountains, which suggest former volcanic disturbance. These hills lie in a line from N. W. to S. E., and mark a continuous dislocation in the rocks. Looking south- wards, upon the left is Montarville, next is the Beloeil Mountain with the ruins of a chapel upon the summit. A depression in the midst of this moun- tain is occupied by a lake of singular clearness and depth. The purity of the water has caused it to be a favourite source for the holy water in the Catholic churches, and hence its name, Lac du Saint Sacrament. Next, the Eougeraont Mountain rises from the plain almost concealing the Yamaska mountain behind it, and to the right the conical shape of Mount Johnson or Monnoir sharply breaks the level surface. Siyty years ago this prairie between the St. Lawrence and the Eichelieu was very productive wheat land, but continual crops have run it out, and it now awaits the steam plough, the high farming, and the capital, which alone can r^ draw out its capabilities. The surface only of the ground has as yet been worked ; abundant foitility \.\ still remains. At the time of the first arrival of the French, in 1535, a large Indian town existed on the site of the present city, probably near the English Cathedral. V 20 THE PREHISTORIC CITY. The skeleton of an Indian, who had been hui^ied in a sitting posture, was found recently near Mansfield street, together with various objects of Indian pottery. Jacques Car tier, who was guided then by the chief to the top of the mountain, describes the town as being fortified with palisades, and built in the form of a circle. It was surrounded by fields of grain which gave evidence of the settled character of the population and their comparative civilization. He learaed that the name of the town was Hoche- laga. The eastern suburb of the present city, where Jacques Cartier probably landed, still re- tains that name, and it has also been retained as the raine of the county. Jacques Cartier made no settlement in Canada, and Hochelaga was not again visited by Europeans until sixty years later. Champlain, the first colonizer of Canada, made an expedition up the St. Lawrence after found- ing Quebec. But the populous town described by Jacques Cartier had disappeared. Two aged Indians alone were found to conduct him to the summit of Mount Eoyal, and relate the story of the ruin of their people. Many traditions survive of the fratricidal war which broke out after Cartier'e departure. If we are to believe the historian of the Wyandotts — Peter Dooyentate Clarke — himself a descendant of the tribe—the Senecas and Wyandotts, or Hurons, lived side by side at Hochelaga, in peace and amity until, in an evil moment, a stern chief of the Senecas refused to pennit his son to marry a Seneca maiden. The indignant damsel rejected all VILLE-MARIE. 21 suitors, and promised to marry that man only who should kill the chief who had offended her. A young Hui'on fulfilled the condition and won the lady. But the Senecas adopted the cause of their chief and attacked the Hui'ons. At first tliey were unsuccess- ful, but the other ti-ibes of the Iroquois assisted them, and the Hurons were driven westward, and were eventually almost exterminated by the implacable Iroquois. This romance of Hochelaga has found no poet or novelist to embellish and immortalize it. Our dark-skinned Canadian Helen brought *' itnnum- bered woes " upon her people, but until some Homer arises to narrate the particulars, we shall never know what tragic 1 'te befell her. Some vestiges of Ilion even still survive, but Champlain saw no trace of the triple palisaded town elaborately described by his predecessor. The early history of Yille Marie is fall of romance. Champlain, very unwisely, si(?.ed with the Hurons in the bitter war which warj raging at the time of his arrival, and the Frencli for fifty years strug- gled with difficulty against the enterprises of their implacable enemies. Montreal being nearer to the Iroquois cantons chiefly felt their fury, and in 1660, the whole island up to the palisades of the town wus swept by Indian war-parties. A deed of heroism by which Dollard and IT other Frenchmen devoted themselves to death alone saved the town. In 16t)5 the Marquis deTracy arrived from France with the Carignan regiment. He defeated and punished the Iroquois and established forts at St. Therdse, Sorel 22 FORTIFICATIONS. and Chambly, to check their incnrsions. Tue two latter places still retain the names of the captains of his regiment who built the forts. Then Montreal rapidly grew into imj)ortance, and became the centre of the fur trade with the west, and of the expeditions to retaliate upon the English colonies, to the south, the atrocities which the Iroquois, the allies of the English, had inflicted upon Canada. Prom Montreal also started Joliette, Hennepin and La Salle on their adventui'ous careers of western exploration. In 1722 Montreal was regularly fortified, with a bastioned wall and ditch, after plans by deLery. The lane in rear of St. James street, now called Fortifica- tion Lane, marks the line of the old walls demolished in 1808. Upon Dalhousie Square stood the citadel. It had been the site of one of the Seigniorial windmills, and was a high hill overlooking the town. When Earl Dalhousie was Governor-General, the site was grant- ed to the city and the land levelled. The station of the Q. M. O. & O. Eailway stands upon the site of the barracks occupied until 1870 by the English troops. They were called the Quebec Gate Barracks, and there a portion of the old deLery walls remained standing until 1881, when the ground was entirely cleared to make room for the depot. Then disappeared the last vestige and visible sign in Montreal of the French military power of former years. In an angle of the wall to the north the French Governors placed the Champ-de- Mars, still used as a parade ground, much extended SURRENDER OP MONTREAL. 23 and surrounded by trees in later times. The powder magazine stood as a detached building, in St. James street ; and the Eecollet Gate in Notre Dame street, very near it, marked the western limits of the town. Wolfe's victory, on the plains of Abraham, resulted in the surrender of Quebec, but it was not until Sep- tember of the following year, 1760, that the French power in Canada was finally broken by the suiTcnder of Montreal. On the same day the army of General Amherst from the English Colonies, and of Geneml Murray from Quebec, arrived before the walls. The city was not prepared for defence and deVaudreuil had no adequate force for resistance. The long strug- gle was over, and the white flag of France went down before the fortune of the English race. It was a dear conquest for England, because the colonists, freed from all apprehension, became restive, and the English, proud of their victories, became more arrogant ; so it happened that only sixteen years later British troops were, in their turn, surrendered at Chambly and St. John. The British Governor escaped down the river to Quebec, and the Mont- realers once more suiTcndered their city, but this time to Montgomery, commanding the army of the revolted colonists. Dm*ing the winter of 1776-7 the city was occupied by the troops of the Continental Congress, and the astute and plausible Franklin practised his persuasive powers in vain to induce the Canadians to join the revolt. In the spring of 1777 the advance of the British trooja 24 FUR TElADINa nAYS. Irom Quebec compelled the invaders to evacuate Canada, and the British flag once more floated over the walls of Montreal. The history of our city from thenceforth becomes dull and uninteresting. It is the ordinary history of a mercantile town. Growing trade, extending buildings, material progress, in all directions. A slight glow of romantic adventure still clung to it during the contest for the fur trade between tho North-West and the Hudson's Bay Companies. The head-quarters of the former were at Montreal, and here the fur-kings of the North- West lived and spent their profits in generous hospitality. When the fleets of canoes went out with supplies or re- tui^ned with peltries, the narrow streets of Mie old town were crowded with adventurous voyageui's, and picturesque with savage and semi-savage cos- tumes. But all that passed away with the fusion of the two companies, and Montreal settled down tc the humdrum life of ordinary trade. Still the mingling of different creeds, languages and races at Montreal adds even yet a charm of variety to the city which none who have lived there ever forget. With this rapid sketch of old Montreal, we now pass on to the Montreal of to-day, and a weary tourist will naturally ask first for information about mi HOTELS. The Windsor Hotel, on Dominion Square is one of the finest hotels in America, whether for style of architecture, commodiousness, comfort or completeness. It is one of the chiefof those palatial hotels peculiar to America, in which under one roof every comfort and convenience of life can be found. The main entrance is from the Square and opens into the grand rotunda where are situated the hotel office, the waiting-room, the telegraph and ticket- office, the news-stand, coat-rooms. Closely con- nected by passages are the wash-rooms, the billiard room, the bar, the barber's shop, a haberdasher's shop and a chemist's shop. The rotunda has a domed roof handsomely frescoed, and is lit from the top by large sky-lights. A handsome marble staircase leads to the grand corridor 180 feet long by 30 wide, out of which opens a suite of handsome drawing rooms. On the same flat is the main dining-room, 112 feet long by 52 feet wide, marble- floored, and beautifully frescoed. A smaller dining- room, 60 feet by 40, opens out of this. The bed- rooms are all supplied with hot and cold water, and are roomy and well warmed and ventilated. The hotel is handsomely and luxuriously furnished t'jroughout, and its situation is healthy and airy. 26 HOTELS. The St. Lawrence Hall, on St. James street, ranks next to the Windsor and is the most centrally situated hotel in the city. It is opposite the post office and close to all the banks and business offices. Until the Windsor was built it was the most fashionable hotel and the one patronised by the Governors when they visited Montreal. It is now being enlarged and iinproved to meet every want of the travelling public. The Richelieu Hotel, on St. Vincent, street, la a very large hotel frequented chiefly by the French portion of the population. It is comfortable and well kept. The Albion Hotel, on McGill street, is a large and comfortable hotel frequented by country mer- chants — a good commercial hotel. Other hotels are the American, on St. Joseph street — ^very much resorted to by dealers in horses and cattle ; the Canadtj. Hotel, on St. Gabriel street, — a French Canadian hotel. Omnibuses attached to the chief hotels await the aiTival of all trains and steamers, and the visitor vould do well to take his seat at once in the omni- bus bearing the name of the hotel where he wishes to put up. Checks for baggage may safely be en- trusted to the porter who bears the badge of the hotel he represents. Cabs and carriages in great number await all arrivals of trains or boats. CONVEYANCEa Tariff of Cab Faret. One-Horse Velilcle«.— From any place to any other, (pro- vided the time occupied does not exceed twenty minutes) for one or two persons, 25 cents; three or four persons, 60 cents. From any place to any other, (provided the timo occupied does not exceed half an hour) for one or two persons, 40 cents ; three or four persons, 60 cents. Wheu the drive exceeds the time limited as aforesaid hour rates to be charged. By tbe Hoar.- For the first hour, one or two persons, 75 cents ; three or four persons, $1. For every s^ j-equent hour : one or two persons, 60 cents; three or four persons, 75 cents. Two-Horse Yeblcles. — From any place to any other, (provided the time occupied does not exceed half an hour) one or two persons, 65 cents j three or four persons, 75 cents. When the drive exceeds the time limited as aforesaid, hour rates to be charged. By tlie Hoar.— One or two persons, $1 ; three or four persons, $1.25. Fractions of hours to be charged at pro rata hour rates, but no less than one-quarter of an hour shall be charged when the time exceeds the hour. Fifty per cent, to be added to the tariff rates for rides from 12 midni&:ht to 4 a.m. The tariff by the hour shall apply to all rides extending^ beyond the city limits when the engagement is made within the city. Baggage.— For each trunk or box carried in any vehicle, 10 cents ; but no charge shall be made for travelling bags, valises, boxes or parcels, which passengers can carry by the hand. Carriaffes aro verv numerous in Montreal. For excursions, or for a drive round the mountain, or a 28 RESTAURANTS. visit to the cemetery a special bargain should bo made. The best plan is to order a carriage at the office of the hotel, and thus prevent a wrangle. Strangers should avoid drinking largely of water on their first arrival. It is apt to cause diarrhoea when copiously drank in hot weather. HortM) Cars of the Montreal City Passenger Railway run as follows : From Mile End to Dorchester Avenue, by St. Lawrence, Craig, Bleury and St. Catherine streets West, every 8 minu- tes, Irom 7 a.m. to 7 p.m., and every 16 minutes from 6.15 to 7 a.m. and 7 to 10 p.m. ; last car leaves Mile End Depot at about 9.30, and Dorchester .4 venue at abovt 10.15 p.m. Between Hochelaga and At water Avenue, Si. Cunegonde, cars every 11 minutes, from 6.10 a.m. to 9.30 p.m., by way of St. Mary, Notre-Dame and St Joseph streets. Papineau Square to the West end of St. Antoine street, every 15 minutei, from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. St. Denis Stveet Line from Craig street to Mount Royal Avenue, from 7 a.m. to 9.30 p.m., every 15 minutes. Omnibuses— Leave Post Office for Point St. Charles every 20 minutes, from 6.30 a.m. to 9.30 p.m. Fare on all Lines 5 cents. BESTAURANTS. These abound 'n the central part of the city, especially in St. James Street and Notre Dame Street. The chief are : — Freeman's, No. 231 St, James Street ; Alexander's, No. 391 Notre Dame Street; Compain's, No. 116 St. Fran(;ois-Xavier Street ; The Bodega, No. 366 Notre Dame Street ; Victor's, No. 145 St. James Street ; Walker's No. 372 Notre Dame Street. A stranger, having letters, would do well to obtain an introduction at the St. James* Club, in Dorchester MONET. 29 Street, or at the Metropolitan Club on Beaver Hall. BEADING BOOMS are at the Merchants' Exchange in St. Sacrament Street — the Mechanics* Institute in St. James* Street — the Young Men's Christian Association on Victoria Square. MONET. Aiinglish gold is a legal tender at the rate of 4.8C§ dollars to the pound, but silver money is not a legal tender, and passes under its proportionate value. United States' money is taken at par when in gold or paper, but silver coins are at a discount. There are many brokers' offices where money may be ex- changed. Weir's and Picken's, near the Post-office, are good places, but the Hotels all take foreign money at its proper value, yhc money in use in Canada consists of bank notes oi $5 and upwards, and Government notes of $1.00 and upwards, all redeemable in gold on demand. The latter are a legal tender. The Canadian coinage is silver only, consisting of pieces of 5, 10, 20, 25 and 50 cents. Fractional paper currency was at ono time issued, but it has nearly all disappeared. riT THE POST OFFICE is on St. James Street at the comer of St. Franyois Xavier Street, and almost facing the Place d'Aimes. 30 COMMEBCE. It is a large and handsome building of grey lime- stone with mansard roof. flails for England close three times a week, for the United States twice daily. Canada is a r^ember of the Postal Union, and the postage to all countries in the Union is 2^ pence stg. or 5 cents per half ounce. For all parts of Canada and the United States the rate is 3 cents. City or drop letters are one cent. Postal cards at two cents are provided for England and the Postal Union, and at one cent for Canada and the United States. Transient News- papers are one cent. All postage must be prepaid. The regulations for Book and Parcels Post and for other mailable matter as well as the hours of departure can best be learned on inquiring at the Hotel Oj^ce as they vary from time to time. CX)BiMEECE OP MONTREAL. The River St. Lawrence is 1,500 miles long and drains an area of 330,000 square miles. From Montreal to Quebec, a distance of 160 miles, its width Taries from one to two miles. From a short distance below Quebec to the Gu^" of St. Lawrence it varies from 10 to 35 miles in width. Half way between Montreal and Quebec it widens out into Lake St Peter which is 20 miles long and 9 miles \ride. At Quebec the tide rises 14 feet, but it ceases to be observed at the lower end of L^ke St. Peter. The depth of the river is so great ihAt Quebec is one THE HARBOUE. 31 of the few ports in America which the Great Eastern was able to visit. From Quebec to Montreal the depth, excepting for a distance of 30 miles, mostly in Lake St. Peter, is never less than 30 feet. The work of deepening the channel on the flats of that Lake was commenced in 1851 by the Harbour Commissioners of Montreal, and has been steadily continued so that this year a depth of 25 feet at low water will be attained. Owing to these great efforts, the largest ocean vessels are able to reach our port. In carrying on these works 8,500,000 cubic yards had to be removed. The ship channel so deepened is 300 feet wide at its narrowest point. The distance from Montreal to the Atlantic Ocean is a little under 1000 miles or to be precise, it is 986 miles from Montreal to the straits of Belleisle. The city is 250 miles above salt-water, and it is 315 miles nearer to Liverpool than is the City of New York. One third of the whole distance to Europe by way of the St. Lawrence is in comparatively smooth wa er. Westwardly the distance from Montreal to Chicago by the St. Lawrence system is 1,261 miles or 158 miles less than the distance from New York to the same city, while the canals of the St. Lawrence system aggregate only TO miles against 350 miles of artificial navigation by the Erie Canal to Buffalo. From these few facts the importance of Montreal as a cectre of commerce can be estimated. The Harboiu'.— No visitor to Montreal should fail to walk along the river front, and inspect the i 32 THE HARBOUR. wharves and quay. These were designed dui'ing the vigorous administration of Lord Sydenham. A solid revetement wall runs along the whole river front of the city, commencing at the Lachine canal, and continuing to the Current St. Mary ; a distance of .one and a half miles. As the wall forms the outer edge of the river-street, that street is open to view from the river for its whole length. The wharves at which the ships discharge are ten feet below the level, so that the pedestrian, standing upon the wall and leaning against the protecting rail, may see at a glance the whole business of the port spread out below him. Close to the canal are the basins for the Allan line of steamers from Glasgow and Liverpool ; then follow steamei's from the Maritime Provinces and different European ports, then sailing ships, then the sheds of the Lon- don line of steamers and the Dominion line from Liverpool ; then follow the splendid river boats ply- ing between Quebec and Montreal ; then succeed a crowd of smaller river steamers^ wood barges, and, finally, sailing ships and steamers as far as Hoche- laga. Here lie, at a distance of 900 miles from the ocean, vessels from all the ports of the "Tjrld, from England, with iron, dry goods, and general goods ; from France and the Mediterranean with wines and groceries j from Germany, with glass and general goods J from China, with tea — alongside of vessels loading with retm-n cargoes of grain, cattle, lumber, mineral phosphates and other productions of Canada. The wharves are not disfigui^ed by unsightly ware- 1 THE HARBOUR. 33 houses, but the river street is as clear as a Parisian quay. The Maritime importance of Montreal will per- haps best be illustrated by an enumeration of the regular lines of ocean steamships which trade to the port, they are : — Allan Mail Lin**, weekly to Liverpool. Allan Line, weekly to Glasgow. Dominion Line, weekly to Liverpool. Beaver Line, weekly to Liverpool. Donal ison Line, weekly to Glasgow. Temperley Line, fortnightly to London. Ross Line, fortnightly to London. Great Western Line, fortnightly to Bristol. Thomson Line, fortnightly to Newcastle-on-Tyne via London. Canadian and Brazilian Mail Line, monthly to West Indies and Brazil. White Cross Line, fortnightly to Antwerp. Quebec Steamship Line, fortnightly for ports on the Gulf and Prince Edward Island. Montreal and Acadian Line, fortnightly to St. John's New- foundland. Besides these, there are numerous steamers trad- ing to the port which do not belong to any regular line. The fleet of river steamers plying to the different towns on the St. Lawrence and its tribu- taries adds to the busy appearance of the harbour. The statistics of the business of the port for the year 1880, are : — Total value of exports $30,224,904 '* value of imports 37.103,869 " customs duties collected 5,232,783 " tonnage 628,271 " sea going vessels 710 Of these 354 were steamships. 9 34 THE HARBOUR. The quay or recetement wall extends down to the Cui^'ent St. ?Iaiy, but the wharves are continued much further down the river, past Hochelaga, to the Hudon Cotton Factory. The total length of wharf accommodation is 4*5*7 miles, of which two thirds is for ships drawing 25 feet of water. Th' port possesses every convenience for loading and des- patching ships, such as steam elevators for grain and applianofts for ^Clipping cattle. Of late years ship- ments of cattle and of mineral phosphates have formed a large portion of the export business. In the year 1881 were shipped 3256O2 head of cattle, and 45,175 sheep and pigs. The phosphates are shipped in the crude form of apatite of which there are enormous deposits in the Otta^va valley. In the year 1881, the export of this mineral amounted to 10,307 tons. The main items of export to Europe are wheat, corn, peas, oats, barley, flour, meal, potash, cheese, butter, lard, beef, petro- leum and meats. The trade in cheese has developed rapidly. Last year the export of this article reached 623,431 boxes. In oi*der to give greater despatch the harbour is lighted by the electric light under the Brush system, so that ships are loaded or discharged at night as zell as during the day. On a market day, that portion of the harboui* allotted to river craft assumes a very lively appear- ance. Much of this business is in the hands of the Eichelieu and Ontario Navigation Company, but there are many independent boats. That Company has a lino of magnificent steamers to Quebec, leaving LACHINE CANAL. 35 Montreal every evening upon the arrival of the daily steamer from the Lake OLtario ports. It has a direct boat for Three Eivers twice a week, a daily boat for Terrebonne, and a boat twice a week for Sorel and the Richelieu river. Thes ._ver boats, with the ferry steamers, and steam tugs^ fally occupy the wharves near the Bonsecoui's market. A railway track runs along the whole length of the river front upon the level of the wharves, and con- nects the diiferent railways with the river and ocean craft. Lachine Canal.— The St. Lawrence, upon whose abundant waters this fleet rests, becomes, a few miles west of the city, completely unnavigable owing to the Lachine rapids or Sault St. Louis. The Lachine Canal, which debouches into the harbour of Montreal, is the first of a series of magnificent works by which the trade of the west is brought to our doors. It is eight and a half miles long, and overcomes a total rise of 45 feet, its width is 120 feet and it has five locks, 200 feet long and 45 feet wide, with nine feet of water on the sills. The ori- ginal scheme comprised a branch through the pre- sent Craig Street (then a small stream) to Hoche- laga, below the Cui'rent St. Mary, thus opening up the deep and quiet bay at the foot of the current. This will, no doubt, be undertaken at some future day at a cost which now would seem fabulous. In the meantime the Government is deepening the Canal to fifteen feet, and lengthening the locks to 2*70 feet. ,.t- 36 CANALS, In the spacious basins of the Lachine Canal, gather the steamers, schooners, barges and propel- lers which carry on the traffic with the upper river and lakes. While the wharves of the harbour pro- per are shore wharves and piers, the wharves of the Canal are all inclosed basins or docks. These last afford a total wharf frontage of 3'30 miles, of which one third of a mile is for eighteen feet of water and the remainder for twelve feet, in addi- tion to the wharfage of the harbour as previously given. The total number of inland vessels which arrived in 1880 was 6,489, and the total inland ton- nage was 1,044,380. The waters of Lake Champlain drain into the St. Lawrence by the Eichelieu, but there are rapids on that river which are overcome by a canal. Lumber is exported to, and coal imported from the "United States by that route. The extetot of the commerce carried on by means of the western canals, may be seen by a glance at the map. It reaches through all the great lakes — to Duluth and Fort William on Lake Superior, Chicago and Mil- waukee on Lake Michigan, Collingwood and Gode- rich on Lake Huron, Buffalo and Cleveland on Lake Erie, Hamilton, Toronto, Kingston and Oswego on Lake Ontario. Then the Ottawa river 600 miles long flows into the St. Lawrence at Montreal and brings the trade ef all its vast valley. The rafts of timber from the Ottawa and its tributaries for shipment at Quebec, are not seen at Montreal. They always pass down behind the island by the CANALS. 3^7 RivUre-des-PrairieSj which falls into the St. Law- rence below the city. The rapids of the Sault-au. RecoUet on that branch of the Ottawa are not so formidable as the Lachine rapids or Sault St. Louis. Leaving the Lachine Canal for the upper waters are many independent steamers, besides steam tugs for the barges and returning lake craft. A weekly line of steamers runs to Duluth at the head of Lake Superior. Another weekly line runs to Chicago at the head of Lake Michigan. A daily line leaves for Hamilton at the western end of Lake Ontario, and another daily line for Ottawa on the Ottawa river. All these call at the intermediate ports. The grain exported from Montreal is for the most part tran- shipped into barges by steam elevators at Kingston. Ft arrives there from Chicago, Milwaukee, Toledo, Detroit, and other western ports in lake craft — usu- ally schooners. Some of it comes by rail from Goderich, CoUingwood, or Midland City, on Lake Huron, and this route is gaining upon the former ; but, in any case, at Kingston the grain is loaded upon canal barges, each carrying 18,000 to 20,000 bushels, which are towed down the canals by pro- pellers and put alongside the ocean ships at Mon- treal. There is an economy in the transhipment, because each kind of craft is constructed fully to comply with all the varied conditions on the long inland route, such as different depths of water. Besides, in the summer months, the handling of the grain keeps it in good condition. Tourists who wish to go westward by the ex- 38 RAILWAYS. cellent boats of the Eichelieu and Ontario Com- pany, can avoid tho delay of the canals by taking the Grand Trunk Eailway to Prescott or Brockville. They can leave six hours later and catch the steam- boats at these ports, bj this means passing through the Thousand Islands and Lake Ontario, and avoid- ing the heat and dust of the railway cars. It does not answer, however, to take the boats when close connections have to be made and time is limited. THE BAILWAYS OF MONTREAL. It is not sufficient in these days that a city should be situated at the intersection of great water ways, it is also necessary that it should be the centre of converging railways. During the past few years Montreal has made great advances in this respect, and in a very short time the city will possess the same relative position of importance in winter by railway, as it does in summer by steam- ships. The Grand Trunk Railway is of first importance. By it Montreal is connected with the western provinces, and with Chicago and the Western States. On the south it connects at Eouse's Point with the railways for New York city, for Ogdens- burg; and the whole system of roads in western and southern New York. On the east it reaches the seaboard at Portland, and at Quebec it connects with the Intercolonial Eailway, and thus with the Maritime Provinces. It passes through Sherbrooke, the chief city of the Eastern Townships. It is in RAILWAYS. 30 reality, as well as in name, the Grand Tj-unk Rail- way of Canada, for with it is now amalgamated the Great Western Railway to Detroit, and its total length is 2,200 miles. At Montreal the workshops and the head offices are located, and here the rail- way crosses the I'iver by a bridge which is one of the great engineering works of the world. A hand- some and commodious building has been erected for the chief offices of this company at Point St. Charles. The Quebec, Montreal, Ottawa, and Occidental Railway is a road which is of great importance to the city, although comparatively recently opened. It extends to Quebec along the north shore of the river, and passes through the city of Three Rivers and the oldest settlements in the country. West- ward it reaches to Ottawa, but this part of the road has recently been acquired by the Canadian Pacific Company. The terminal stations at Mon- treal are, for the present, at Hochelaga and Mile- end, but, on .Dalhousie Square, on the site of the Quebec Gate Barracks, a handsome and commodious depot will be completed this year. The approach to this from Hochelaga along the river bank is an engin- eering work of great magnitude. i»Ty The Central Vermont Railway.— This is a very favourite route, either to New York or Boston. It crosses the Richelieu river at St. Johns, and runs down on the eastern side of Lake Champlain to Troy, where it conn.ects with the Hudson River 40 RAILWAYS. Eailway. For Boston it connects at White River Junction with the New England roads. The South Eastern Bail way is another most im- portant road. By this, Montreal is connected with the whole system of New England roads, with the seaboaixi at Boston, and with many beautiful routes through the White Mountains — the Switzerland of North America. The Canadian Pacific Rail way —The head quar- ters of this gigantic undertaking are at Montreal. The company have pui-chased the Q. M. 0. & O. road to OttaAva, and from that point Montreal will be able to reach out along the upper Ottawa valley to Lake Nipissing, Lake Huron, Sault St. Marie, Manitoba, and the Pacific Ocean, and also by means of the Toronto and Ottawa railway, now in progress, it will possess an alternative route to western Ca- nada and all its railway system. Another bridge is to be built a little above the Yictoria bridge to accommodate the traffic which this road will bring, and transfer it to the system of roads o;i the south side of the j'iver. Large portions of this railway are ready, and before long the branch to the Sault St. Marie will be completed. Besides these greater systems of railway there are several minor roads from Montreal, such as that to Sorel on the Eichelieu, to Huntingdon at the south-west corner of the province, and to St. Jerome on the north. The road to Sorel forms part of a system called VICTORIA BRIDGE. 41 tho Great Eastern, intended to extend to Quebec on the east, and to Dundee on the west. At Dundee it will be connected with the Ogden?':)urg Railway, and thus open out a route to the west, south of Lake Ontario. A company has been formed to tunnel the river- bed opposite Ilochelaga, and thus connect with the south shore at the east end of the town. All the railways are connected with the shipping by a line of rails upon the wharves the whole length of the city, which is worked by the Grand Trunk Rail- way under the supervision of the Harbour Com- missioners for the convenience of ail the companies and in the interests of the trade of the port. The Victoria Bridge.— This wonderful triumph of engineering skill was completed in 1859, from the designs of Eobert Stephenson and A. M. Eoss, ably carried out by the energy of James Hodges. The bold idea of a bridge to span the St. Law- rence did not, however, originate with them, as, in fact, the Honourable John Young in 184*7, and Mr. T. C. Keefer in 1851, had, long before the English engincerp jame out, demonstrated its feasi- bility and pointed out the location which was after- wards, with slight modifications, adopted. The engineers skilfully availed themselves of a ledge of rock, which crosses the river from Point St. Charles to St. Lambert's, upon which to found their suj)er- structure. The bridge is 9,184 feet in length. There are 25 42 VICTORIA BRIDGE. tubes, which are supported by 24 piers and the two terminal abutments, or, to be more precise, there is a centre tube, and on either side six pairs of double tubes. The centre tube is detached at both ends ; and the double tubes are bolted together and to tlie piers at their inner junction, and tVee at their outer ends. These free ends rest upon rol- lers, and, as openings are left between each sel. of double tubes, the expansion and contraction caused by the extremes of Canadian climate are amply provided for. The tubes are of wrought boiler plate iron, built up with most careful calculation of varying tliicknesses of plate, and stiffened with angle-iron. They are of the uniform breadth of 16 feet, and are arranged for a single track within. Their height varies from 18 feet 6 in. at the ter- minal tubes to 22 feet for the centre tube. The centre tube is CO feet above the summer level of the river. Besides the openings for expansion, windows are placed in the tubes to afford light. All the spans ar" uniformly of 242 feet, excepting the centre, w^ > 330 feet. The are built of limestone of the same for- mation, tue Chazy, but taken fi'om two localities, one at Point Claire, on the Island of Moiitreal, and the other at Isle Lamotte, in Lake Champlain. The dimensions of the piers at the summit are 33 feet in the line of the river by 16 feet in the line of the brid.ge. They descend to a point 30 feet above summer level, very gradually increasing in size. At this point the masonry is extended hori- VICTORIA BRIDGE. 43 zontally 10 feet on the up-stream side, from wlience it descends, at an angle of 45 degrees, to a point C feet below summer level, and thence perpendicu- larly to the bed of the river. The main increase in the size of the piers is thus upon the up-stream side ; the other sides, however, increase slightly as they descend. The curi*ent runs at the bridge at the ]'ate of seven miles an hour, and the pressure of the ice when piling and shoving in the spring and fall is enormous. The horizontal gain of 10 feet in the up-stream dimension of the piers prevents the ice from reaching the shaft, and the sharp edges to which the piers are brought upon that side form saddles upon which the ice cannot rest, but must breaii asunder or glide aside. The dimensions of the piers at their foundations are 92 feet by 22J feet. The abutments are 242 feet by 34 feet at the top, and 290 feet by 02 feet at the foundation. The entrance to this wonderful structure is between high parapets of massive masonry, hewn in Egyp- tian style. Over the entr'^.nce, cut into the lintel^ is the inscription : — Erected a.d. mdccclix. ROBERT STEPHENSON AND ALEXANDER M. ROSS Engineers. Over the lintel, just in front of the first tube, is inscribed Built by James Hodges FOR SIR SAMUEL MORTON PETO, BART THOMAS BRAS3E5r AND EDWARD LADD BETTS Contractors. 44 MANUFACTURES. The iron for the superstructure was all prepared at Birkenhead and sent out, each piece so marked as to go readily into its place. The first stone was laid on July 20th, 1854, and the first passenger train crossed December 19th, 1859. The following data, from Mr. Legge's excellent little book about the bridge, are given for the bene- fit of visitors who may be fond of figures ; — Cubic feet of masonry, 3,000,000 feet ; tons of iron in tubes, 8,250 ; number of rivets, 2,500,000 ; painting on tubes, 30 acres, four coats, equal to 120 acres; force employed, 3,040 men, 142 horses, 4 locomotives. Total cost 6,300,000 dollars. Strangers desiring to visit the bridge will require to obtain a pass from the Grand Trunk Eailway office at Point St. Charles. Manufactures of Montreal.— Montreal is not only a centre of commerce, but the most important manufacturing city in the Dominion. The manu- factm-e of boots and shoes employs about 3,000 hands, and the product of the numerous factories is enormous. The largest sugar refineries in Canada arc at Montreal. The largest cotton mill in the ccantry is that of the Hudon Company, at Hoche- laga. There are two silk factories, a large rub- ber factory, many large clothing factories em- ploying in the aggregate 2,500 hands ; factories of cards, boxes, paints, soaps, cements, drugs. On the canal are saw-mills, sash factories, rolling mills, nail works, engine and machine works. WATER WORKS. 45 There are f.ve establishments for making sewing machines. The edge tools — axes, augers, &c., of Montreal make are celebrated for excellence. At the machine shops of the Grand Trunk Eailway everything connected with railway machinery is manufactured. There are carpet factories, rope factories, large binderies, large printing offices. Over 2,500 hands are employed in the tobacco factories; over 300 in the breweries. To give an account of the various manufacturing industries of the city would require more space than can be afforded in a guide book. WATER WOBKS. The water supply of the city is taken from the St. Lawrence, about one mile above the head of the Lachine rapids, at a point 37 feet above the summer level of the harbour of Montreal. One branch oi the aqueduct starts at that point, and another branch starts from a point 3,000 feet above. Both unite and form a canal, 26,200 feet long, to the "Wheel House at the west end of the city whero there is a large settling pond. The Wheel House is a substantial stone building, containing watci- wheels and steam engines, by which the water is pumped either directly into the city mains or into the large reservoir. The water from the wheels after it has done its work of pumping is carried away into the river by a tail-race 3,500 feet long. There are two reservoirs ; the larger is at t.he head of MacTavish street on the side of the mountain. 46 PARKS AND SQUARES. It is 810 feet long, 377 feet wide, and 24 feet deep. It is dug out of the solid rock, and contains 36J millions of gallons. From it the water is pumped by a steam engine to the small reservoir, 200 feet long by 80 feet wide, situated 218 feet farther up on the mountain side. This has a capacity of two millions of gallons, and supplies all the city above the level of Sherbrooke street. All the work has been constructed in the most substantial manner, and is worth the inspection of all interested in engineering matters. It cost the city six million dollars, which amount was raised by bonds secui^ed hy the water-rates. PARKS AND SQUARES. Mount Royal Park.—Kind friends from the upper provinces sometimes ask, in the conclusive manner generated by the free air of the west, " What would your town be without the mountain ? " To which the Montrealer is constrained meekly to reply, " not very much, for if the mountain were levelled our city would look as dull as any of the flat western towns." But then Montrealers have no intention of flattening cut their mountain, for although they are often reminded by strangers from the east that it is a very small mountain — nothing but a hill in fact — they are proud of it such as it is, and do not wish it to be higher. They feel that it is a great ornament to their city, and it answers their pui^^ose much better than Mont Blanc or Mount Washington would, because, being the height it is, MOUNT-ROyAL PARK. 4*7 they have been enabled to turn it into a park, which is their delight, and will be that of their children. The Mountain Park covers 430 acres. It was acquired by the city in 18Y4. It is under the control of three conimissioners, members of the City Coun- cil, who have secured the professional assistance of Mr. Frederick Law Olmstead, of New York, a gentleman of great artistic taste and wide expe- rience in landscape gardening. Under his advice the park has, for the most part, been laid out, as far as it has been laid out at all. In reality very little has been done excepting the construction of roads, for the work of laying out such a park as this is not one which can be hurried. Indeed, any '' laying out " in the strict sense of the word is ver^ earnestly to be deprecated, for the moun- tain already possesses so many natural advanta- ges that it is far easier to spoil it than to improve it by a lavish expenditure of money. In an admirable little book written by Mr. Olmstead upon the sabject of the artistic development of this property, he shows that it is only by following in the lines which nature has already laid down, and by bringing these half hidden, but characteristic beauties fully to light by the resources of art, that the most can be made of the wonderful possibilities of the place. In preparing his jolans, Mr. Olmstead has adopted names expressive of the characters of different parts of the park. He Ltills the highest part of the 48 MOUNT-ROYAL PARK. moTintain where the soil is thin and rocky, and the aspect is arctic, the Upperfcll. Lower, on the southern spur, near the spot known to natives as '' the Pines," is what he calls the Brackenfell, from the abundance of ferns found there. Opposite the Brackenfell, to the west, lies an expanse of rolling, grassy, park-like turf, this he calls the Glades. The steep declivities around which winds the ascending road he calls the Cliffs. The forest land through which this road passes is tue Underfell. The bare land towards the north, near the upper reservoir, he calls Cragsfoot. At the north end of the moun- tain is Piedmont, and the level plain which stretches out towards St. Jean Baptiste village, known vulgarly as Fletcher's Fiald, he designates Cote Placide. Following out the indications ex- pressed by these happily-chosen names, we may grasp the whole idea of the artist in designing the plan, and understand what he means by following in the lines which nature has traced. The vistas of the Glades must not be obscured, nor the Fella de- forested, nor the wildness of the Crags moderated, nor the breezy uplands of Piedmont obstinicted, nor the grassy expanse of Cote Placide cut up and dis- figured, but whatever is done must be subordinate to the genius of the place. The approaches to the park are from Bleury street and from Peel street. Description of scenery is more the province of the poet than of the writer of guide books. Those who visit it will see for themselves, and those who do not can obtain no adequate idea from a verbal des- MOUNT-ROYAL PARK. 4^ ciij)tion. One peculiar featui'e is described by Mi\ Olmstead in the following words : — *' Among properties of its class your mountain possesses one marked advantage over all others. I mean that of noble landscapes extending far beyond its borders. These ai'c of Fuch extent and so com- posed, and their foregrounds, within the propei-ty, are to be so easily adapted to increase their value ; their interest is so varied according to the direction of the outlook, and the passing elfects of clouds and atmospheric conditions, that it is not only im- possible to speak of them in adequate terms of admiration, but, trying to take a business estimate of them, and seeking standard of comparison for the purpose, it will be found that the best that other communities have been able to obtain by expendi- tures counting in millions of dollars, is really too insiguificant to be available for the purpose." The views over the surrounding country are in- deed exceedingly fine. On the south is the level prairie dotted with villages, from Laprairie, in the distant bay on the right, to Yarennes. The moun- tains rising abruptly from the plain are, commen- cing from the west, Monnoir, or Mount Johnson, Sheiford, Eougemont with the Yamaska Moun* tain behind it, Belceil and Montarville. In the remote distances are the Adirondacks in IN'ew York, and the Green Mountains in Vermont. From the east end the spectator looks down the valley of the St. Lawrence, and may see to the left the course of Eividre-des-Prairies to its junction below the island ; far off on the left are the Laui'entian Hills. But thoroughly to enjoy the beauties of 50 ST. Helen's island. the Mountain Park the tourist should follow the road across the Glades westwards and cross the Protestant Cemetery tc the Belvedere conspi- cuous on the western summit. From that point the lower valley of the Ottawa opens out. The Lake of Two Mountains, Lake St. Louis, the two northern mouths of the Ottawa, and the fertile island of Montreal are spread out as on a map, while on one hand the Protestant Cemetery, and on the other the Catholic Cemetery glisten with monuments shining through the foliage. Omnibuses leave the post office for the Mountain Park at short intervals in fine weather. Eefresh- ments can be had during the season at the res- taurant on the summit, near the Peel street steps. Pedestrians can reach the top of the mountain by steps above Peel Street or above University street. There are also many paths of easy grade. St. Helen's Island.— -This island was a few years ago opened to the public for a park. It commands an excellent view of the city, and, being beautifully wooded, is a pleasant place for a ramble. Access is obtained by the steamer Filgate, which plies regularly to it from the wharf opposite the Bon- secours market. Refreshments can be had on the island, and swings and other amusements are pro- vided for children. There is a swimming bath at the lower end. The island is named after Helen Bouill^, the wife of Champlain. She was the first SQUARES. 51 European lady who visited Canada. It belonged at one time to the Barons of Longueuil, but was sold to the British Government who used it for many years as a depot for military stores and a station for troops. The fort and barracks still remain. When the British troops were withdrawn from the country it passed to the Canadian Government. Viger Square, in St. Denis street, has been very prettily laid out with gardens and conservatory for the accommodation of the eastern part of the city. The Champ de Mars, upon Craig street, in rear of the Court House, is a fine exercise ground for troops, 240 yards long by 120 wide. It is sur- rounded by a line of Lombardy poplars. It be- longed to the Imperial Government, and in former years, when British ti^oops were stationed in Cana- da they were paraded here, and the place was a favourite resort of strangers. The City Hall and the Com*t House occupy the south side. An open square with a fountain in the centre leads to Jacques Cartier Square, which has a fine outlook upon the river. This square is ornamented by two Eussian guns, trophies from Sebastopol, and pre- sented to the city by the Imj^erial Government. A column surmounted by a statue of Lord IN'elson is placed at the head of the square. This column was erected in 1808, by the merchants of Montreal, shortly after the death of the Admiral at Trafalgar. It has recently been partially repaired, and the bas- 52 SQUARES. reliefs represent passages in the life of the hero, Nelson was on the Quebec station in command of the " Albemarle " in 1782, and had a narrow oscape of becoming a Canadian; for being violently ena moured of a fair Quebecer, he was with difficulty torn away by his fellow-officerc and prevented from marrying her. Victoria Square, at the western end of St. James* street, is uj)ou the site of the old hay-market. Upon it is a colossal statue of the Queen in bronze, by Marshall Wood, an English sculptor. Dominion Square is upon the rising ground more to the west. It is the finest square in Montreal as to site. The Wiadsor Hotel, the new Cathedral of St. Peter, St. George's Church and Eectory, and the many other churches close to it give it importance architecturally. It also commands a fine view of the mountain. Place d'Armes, which for stately buildings is worthy of attention. The Church of N'otre Dame forms one side, and the other three sides are occu- pied by fine buildings. The Bank of Montreal is con- spicuous with its Grecian front. Next is the Canada Pacific Eailway Office. Upon the eastern side. with ornamental front and mansard roof, is the Jacques Car tier Bank. The Ontario Bank is oppo- site. At the corner, in Ohio stone, is a building now occupied as the Eoyal Insurance Office. The Seminary of St. Sulpice, adjoining the Church, with PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 53 its mixtui'o of architecture, half of the present day andhalf of the Norman French stylo of two cen- turies ago, is a fit emblem of old Montreal, now fast changing into a new city. Dufiferin Square is a small square on Dorchester street, occupying the site of the old Protestant Burying Ground. The monuments and remains were removed to Mount Royal Cemetery. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. The Court House, situated in Notre Dame street, between the Champ de Mars and Jacques Cartier Square, is a handsome building of grey Montreal limestone, in the Grecian style, 300 feet long, 125 feet wide, and ^6 feet high. All the courts have their sittings here, and offices are j)rovided for all the departments of the administration of justice. The building is divided by iron sliding doors into fire-proof compartments. The Advocate:' Library, which occupies a portion of it, is very complete in the subject of old French civil law. The usual appendage to a Court House The Gaol is two miles farther east, very solid and substantial and ugly, with its surrounding wall, but not interesting. Victoria Armory, facing the Champ de Mars — an immense building, in the side chambers of which were stored all the arms and materiel of the city militia, and in the capacious hall are, or were, di'illed the city battalions. It is a building worthy 54 PUBLIC BUILDINaS. of Dotice from its carefully-planned unsnitability to its intended uBe. The windows ave low down, and unguarded by any flanking towers, and the arms would require as many men within to defend them as4here might be in an attacking crowd without. The enormous stretch of roof was erected without reference to the weight of snow it would have to sustain, and so it fell in one winter's day before it could be shovelled clear. The city saved money, however, in the first instance by adopting the cheapest plan. The state of the building speaks well for the state of the country, and gives promise of the time " when swords shall be turned into ploughshares." Bonsecours Market, on St. Paul street, near Jacques Cartier Square, is a very large and sub- stantial building, which the tourist who wishes to see the Lower Canadian peasantry would do well to visit on a Tuesday or a Friday. Under this one roof, and from the market carts and booths around, every sort of eatable can be purchased, from maple sugar to mutton and fish. Vegetables of all sorts testify to the fruitfulness of the surrounding countr}''. Ail sorts of cheap clothing, baskets, little shrines, images, and wooden shoes, are displayed to tempt the rustic purse, and restaurants of primi- tive style to tempt the rustic stomach. A poor man of simple taste finds here everything he may re- quire for horse or person. There are six other mar- kets in the city, but this is the one best worth a PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 55 vi8it. The length of this building is nearly 500 feet, and its appearance when ci'owded on a market day is very lively. The Custom House is a handsome triangulai building with a tower, situated on the I'iver-fi-ont on a lot of land formerly called Pointe-iUCalli^res, because in old French days, when the little stream^ now covered in, was visible, it separated this point from the city, and Monsieur de Callidres' house was built thei-e, outside of the walls, which then followed the line of the north side of the present street. The Examining Warehouse is further west- ward on the river-front, near the entrance to the Lachhie Canal. It is a very commodious stone building, with every appliance for storing and hand- ling goods. The City Hall.— This is a very imposing and handsome building close to the Court House. It is 485 feet in length, and is built in a adaptation of modern French style with lofty mansard roofs and central pavilion. All the municipal oflSces are in this building, including the water-works and fire- alarm offices. The Eecorder's Coui-t and Police office are in the basement. The city is goveimed by a Mayor, elected annually, and twenty-seven aldermen. Three aldermen, one of whom retires every year, are elected by each of the nine wards of the city. 66 rUBLIC BUILDINGS. The Harbour Co oamissioners' Building. — This commission consintK of members nominated partly by the ^[ontrcal Board of Trade, the Corn Ex- change and the City Council, and partly by the Dominion Government. Its duties arc to watch over the hai'boiir to keep up the standard depth of water, to keep the wharves and quays in good repair, to extend them when I'equrrcd, to allot places to incoming vessels, and generally to su- pervise all n liters connected with the commerce of the city other than the collection of custom duties. The Board has also care of the channel of the river as far as Quebec. Under its direc- tion all the operations of dredging and removing ehoals have been carried on for a long series of years, and to its enlightened views of the destiny and capabilities of the city are due the present commodiousness and efficiency of the port. The plant engaged in this work consists of eight steam dredges, two stone-lifting barges, and eight tug- boats. The commission occupies a large cut-stone build- ing adjoining the Examining Warehouse. In the basement of the building the engines for the electric ]amj)s which light the harbour will be placed. The Inland Revenue Office is a building on Cus- tom House Square and is now undergoing extension. This square was in old times the market place of the town. The present building was erected in 1836 tor a Custom House. cruRciiES. 5t The Board of Arts and Manufactures in a com- mission nominated by the (jrovornmcnt of the Provinro of Quoboc for holdiiiii: indiHtrial ex- hibitions, carrying on schools < if technical art, and generally watching over the industrial interests of thepi'ovinco. It occupies the large building at the east end of the Champ-dc-Mars, formerly occupied by the Geological Survey Museum. The Board of Agriculture is similarly consti- tuted to the preceding, and has care of all public in- tej'csts relating to agriculture. It holds exhibitions annually in conjunction with the former Board. Its offices aie in St. Gabriel street. THE CHURCHES OF MONTREAL. From what has been g'^id at page 17 concerning the early settlement of Montreal, a stranger will be prepared to find a large number of churches. Tour- ists are always struck with this peculiarity, and Mark Twain in a speech at a public dinner at the Windsor Hotel said that he '^ never wau in a city before where one could not throw a brick-bat with- out breaking a church window." The action and reaction constantly going on in ft community con- taining an unusual number of earnest men of all conceivable shades of ecclesiastical opinion natur- ally excites a corresponding amount of zeal which has cry:italised into stone and mortar. There is, however, a vast amount of tolerant feeling in reli- gious matters which quietly tides over disputes rfi 68 CHURCHES. when they threaten to be dangerous, and demon- strates alike in Protestant and Catholic the falseness of Eousseau's maxim that " it is impossible to live at peace with people whom one believes to be etern- ally lost." In the old times, just after the conquest, the Protestants used one of the Eoman churches for worship after the morning mass. For twenty yeai's after 176G the Church of England people occupied the Church of the Eecollets every Sunday afternoon. The Presbyterians used the same church before 1792^ and when the congregation moved to their first church in St. Gabriel street they pre- sented to the priests of the Eecollet church a gift of candles for the high altar and of wine for the mass, as a token of good-will and thanks for the gratuitous use of the church. These days have passed away, and every congregation now has its own church, Many of the buildings are very handsome. Commencing with the Eoman com- munion there are the Cathedral of St. Peter. — This building, which is now in course of construction, occupies one of the finest sites in the city, at the corner of Domi- nion Square and Dorchester street. It is designed to reproduce, on a smaller scale, all those features of St. Peter's at Eome which are suited to the climate. It will have the same fagade, in classic style of architecture, and be surmounted by a simi- lar dome. The ground plan is cruciform, like its prototype, and the arms of the cross are rounded CHURCHES. 5^ both at the tribune and at the ends of the transept^ It is to have a grand portico surmounted by statues^ and smaller domes are to light the side chapels and tribune. The roof will, however, be sloping in order to throw off the snow. With this alteration the church will be a reproduction of the grand Basilica. Th« dimensions are as follows : — Length of main building 300 feet, portico 30 feet, total length 330 feet; breadth at transept 225 feet;, height from pavement to ridge of roof 80 feet ; height of dome with lantern ball and cross 250 feet ;. diameter of dome upon the inside 70 feet ; width of nave 40 feet. These dimensions are as near as pos- sible one-half those of the great Roman church, and still the building will surpass all other churches in America as to size. The exterior is plain, but the^ intention is to make the interior as magnificent as possible, after the manner of Italian churches. The present humble cathedral in brick will no doubt be swept away on the completion of this. The large building in the rear, facing towards the river, is the Bishop's palace. The whole design originated with Monseigneur Bourget, the former Bishop, now Arch- bishop m ^ar^iftws, after his church and palace in St. Denis street were destroyed in the great fire of 1852. Like its great prototype it was commenced before the money to finish it was all in hand, and the work i" "topped awaiting further contributions^ which will iio doubt come in due time, 60 CHURCHES. The Parish Church of Notre-Dame, erroneously called by many the Cathedral, stands iij^on the Place d'Armes. It is built of cut limestone, in the Gothic style, and is much admired for its plain and simple stateliness. The length of the church is 255 feet, and its bi-eadth 134 feet. It will ac- commodate 10,000 people. The two principal towers arc 220 feet high, and aftbrd from their sum- mit a broad panorama of the country around. The interior has been recently decorated in a somewhat florid manner. The carved woodwork of the choir is especially fine. At high mass when crowded with worshippers, and when the choir is filled with robed ecclesiastics, officiating at the stately cere- monies of the Eoman church, the effect is very imposing. The south-west tower is opened in sum- mer, and visitors may ascend to the top on j)ayment of twenty-five cents. In ascending, the great bell, the largest in America, weighing 29,400 lbs., can be seen. There are ten bells in the towers. The name of the large one '' Le Gros Bourdon " is Jean Baptiste. He is only heard on great occasions. The two largest of the other bells are christened 3Iai*i a- Victoria and Edouard-Albert-Louis. They weigh respectively 6041 and 3633 pounds. As for the view from the summit, Mr. W. D. Howells thus describes it: " So far as the eye reaches it dwells only upon what is magnificent. All the features of that land- scape are grand. Below you S2)reads the city, which has less that is merely mean in it than any CHURCHES. 61 other city of our continent, and which is every- where eonohled by stately civic edifices, adorned by tasteful chui'ches, and skirted by full-foliaged avenues of mansions and villas. Eehind it rises the beautiful mountain, green with woods and gardens to its crest, and flanked on the east by^ an endless fertile plain, and on the west by another expan.se, through which the Ottawa rushes, turbid and dark, to its confluence with the St. Lawrence. Then those two mighty streams commingled flow past the city, lighting up the vast champaign coun- try to the south, while upon the utmost southern verge, as on the northern, rise the cloudy summits of far-otf mountains." This is a pleasing tribute, coming from the au- thor of such books of travel as '' Venetian Life "" and " Italian Journeys." Mr. Howells continues : " As our travellers gazed upon all this grandeur their hearts were humbled to the tacit admission that the colonial metropolis was not only worthy of its seat, but had traits of a solid prosperity not excelled by any of the abounding and boastful cities of the Eepublic. Long before they quitted Montreal they had rallied from this weakness, but they delighted still to honor her superb' beauty." The present church occupies almost the same site as one built in 16*72 ; it was a long low structure with a high pitched roof and stood out across Notre Dame street. It was pulled down in 1824 to make room for the present building, which is one of the largest churches on the continent. Notre Dame de Bonseeours.— Sister Maj'guerito Bourgeois founded this chui'ch in 1673. It was- <32 CHURCHES. built for the reception of a miraculous statue of the Virgin, which was entrusted to her by the Baron de Fancamp, a priest, and one of the original proprietors of the island. Sister Bourgeois' church was burned in 1754, and in 1771 the present church was erected. It is a quaint old church, in a style scarcely met with out of Normandy, and should be visited in connection with the Bonse- cours market, which stands close to it. Shops are built up against it after the manner common in old European cities. St. Patrick's Church, in Lagauchetiere street, is well worth a visit. It is built in the Gothic style, of cut stone, and is very beautifully finished and decorated in the interior. It will seat 5,000 people, It is 240 feet long and 90 feet broad. It is the church of the Irish Catholics, and the preaching there is in the English language. The Jesuit's Church. — At the conquest the British Government confiscated all the Jesuits' estates, and their revenue to this day is devoted to odacational purposes. In 1848 the Jesuits were invited by the late Bishop to settle again at Mon- treal, and in 1865 they completed the present church. It is beautifully frescoed within, and deco- rated in Eoman style. The singing at the evening service is particularly good. There is a sermon in English every Sunday evening. The church is 194 feet long and 96 feet wide j the transept is 144 CHURCHES. 63 feet ; height of nave, 75 feet. The college of St. Mary adjoins the church. Two churches deserve especial notice, as being a new departure in Canadian art. These are the churches of Notre Dame de Nazareth and Notre j Dame de Lourdes. Both of them were designed and painted in fresco by M. Napoleon Bourassa, and a school of young men under his direction. They mark the rise of a native school of art applied to church decoration, which we may well i^ope will achieve great things. In these, and more especially in the latter of the two, the attempt is made to take one subject and illustrate it thoroughly, making all the details subordinate to the expression of one idea. The church of Notre Damo de Lourdes is to Mon- treal what Santa Maria Novella was to Florence, it marks a point in the art history of the city. Although in after years many finer paintings than these ofCimabue and Ghirlandaio were produced by the Florentine school, those at Santa Maria No- vella will always be doubly interesting, not only for their intrinsic merits, but because they were the precursors of greater works. It is not that we wish to institute comparisons between the work of M. Bourassa and of Ghirlandaio, but to give him the credit of being the first in Canada, and probably in America, who has applied the art of painting to the adornment of Christian churches in the broad and thorough manner so common at one ]>eriod in central Italy. 64 CHURCHES. Notre Dame de Nazareth. — This church is in St. Catherine street, near St. Gcorcre street. It is placed between the Asylum for Blind Children and the Oi'phan Asylum. These institutions are built of brick, but the facade of the church is of limestone, and its style is Norman. The interior consists of a nave with a flat ceiling, on each sido of which is a row of columns supporting a gallery, or rather an arcade. These arcades have smaller columns in front, and were probably suggested b}' the closed galleries for women, Avhich were common in early Christian churches, and of which one specimen still remains at St. Agnese in Eome. The paintings com- memoi-ate incidents in the early life of our Lord, his birth, his flight into Egypt, hi^ poverty and labour at Nazareth. Over the altar he is painted as the Good Shepherd, and around him are the four Evangelists. The architecture of the interior is light and grace- ful, the colom'S are harmonious, and the effect is vei'y pleasing. Notre Dame de Lourdes.— This church has been built and adorned with one idea — that of expres- sing in visible form the dogma of the immaculate conception of the Virgin Mary. A dogma which was declared to be " of faith " first by Pope Pius IX in 1854, although it had been held for many hun- dred years by numbers in the Eoman church as a pious and permissable opinion. The architecture of the church is Byzantine and Eenaissance, such as may be seen at Yenice. It CHURCHES. 65 consists of a nave with narrow aisles, a transept and a choir. The choir and the transept are termi- nated by circular and domed apses, and a large central dome rises at the intersection of the tran- sept. The fagade is of white marble. The portico is surmounted by a rose window and by two galleries of round-headed arches. Projecting wings on either side are intended to be completed with domes. It is a small church, but the proportions are just and harmonious. The nave is 50 feet long, 50 feet high, and 25 feet wide. The dimensions of the transept are precisely the same. The choir is 26 feet long and 26 feet wide. The large dome is 26 feet wide and 90 feet high. The total length of the church is then 102 feet, and total length of the transept is 76 feet, including the dome. The idea of the architect and painter, M. Bourasea, includes not only the dogma of the immaculate conception proper, but the kindred mystical idea of the predestination of Mary. The first picture on the roof of the nave represents the promise of the redemption made to Adam and Eve. They are prostrated before the Lord, who addresses the serpent. The text illustrated is Gen. iii, 15, as in the Vulgate, *' She shall bruise thy head." The second panel is the sacrifice of Abraham, the text is the covenant made with Noah, Gen. ix, 11, 16. The third represents the arrival of Eebecca before Isaac, the text is the promise made to Abra- ham. The fourth, which is over the choii', is Jacob blessing his children, and uttering the 66 CHURCHES. promise that " the sceptre shall not depart from Judah until Shiloh come." On the right side of the nave are the prophets who have prophesied of the Virgin. Isaiah, the text, chapter vii, '' Behold a virgin shall conceive : Jeremiah, the text, chap- ter xxxi, ''A woman shall compass a man;" David, the text. Psalm cxl, 12, '' Thou upholdest me in my innocence." In the choir, Micah, the text, chapter v., '^ Out of thee shall come forth a ruler." On the left side are types of the Virgin, first Sarah, then Eebecca, then Eachel, and in the choir, Euth. The artist then proceeds to show the Eoman view of the realization of these promises. First, on the right transept is painted the Salutation of Eliza- beth, Luke i, 42, on the left transept the Nativity. The figures around the transept are those of doc- tors and saints who have magnified the glory of Mary, or advocated the dogma illustrated. The Greek fathers on the left, the Latin on the right. In the choir M. Bourassa portrays the four great events in the life of St. Mary. The previous pic- tures represent the '"'predestination of Mary." The choir contains the exposition of the dogma proper. The statue which is over the altar and strikes the eye immediately on entering the church is sym- bolic of the doctrine. It represents the Virgin in the attitude usually attributed to this subject by the Spanish painters — the hands crossed on the breast — but here she is altogether in white, while the gar- ment in their pictures is usually blue. She is stand- CHURCHES. 6T ing on the clouds, and the text illustrated is Rev. xii 1, ^' A woman clothed with the sun, and the moon under her feet." The light thrown down from an unseen lamp is to represent the clothing with the sun. As the Roman idea is to present St. Mary in her personal character as the purest of created beings the mystical light upon the white garment conveys it better than do Murillo's paint- ings, in which the dress is blue. On this cupola above is the Annunciation ; on the right is the Assumption, and on the left is the Coronation of the Virgin. Whatever opinion may be held by the spec- tator upon the dogma, the artist must have the credit of working out the exposition of it with force and unity. Some of the painting is exceedingly good. The decoration of the church in gold and colours, arabesque and fifteenth century ornament is very beautiful and harmonious. The lower panels of the nave are reserved blank probably for repre- sentations of the appearance at Lourdes and similar occurrences elsewhere. The sub-chapel, which is reached by stairways from the portico, contains a representation of the apparition of the Virgin in the grotto at Lourdes, and the kneeling figure is that of the peasant girl Bernadette who saw the visions. The texts are, of course, in Latin from the Vul- gate Bible, and the application of them is the one adopted by the Roman Church. We have dwelt at length upon this building because it is the only one 68 CHURCHES. of its kind in America. It is like an illuminated Missal, which to a Protestant has interest as a work of art, and to a Catholic has the superadded interest of a work of devotion. Church of St. James.— This is erected upon the site of the former Bishop's Church and Palace which were burned in the great fire of 1852. The tower is especially lofty and graceful. The interior is light and pleasing. The slender columns, pointed arches, and the triforium round the nave and tran- sept remind the visitor of some of the larger Gothic chui^ches of Europe. The pulpit is a very fine work in wood-carving. There are, of com'se, as the tourist cannot help seeing, many other Eoman Catholic churches in Montreal ; but these described are best worth a visit. PROTESTANT CHURCHES. It follows in the nature of things that Protestant churches in America cannot have the artistic in- terest which Eoman churches possess, because the former depend upon the art of architecture alone, while the latter invoke the aid of the sister arts of painting and sculpture. In exterior beauty the Protestant chm'ches surpass the Eoman Catholic. Notre Dame de Lourdes is perfect in its style, but there is no church which in perfection of propor- tion, symmetry, and adherence to the type chosen equals the Anglican Cathedral. In the Eoman CHURCHES. 69 churches of Montreal there is no stained glass worth speaking of. The Protestant churches, and especially the Cathedral, contains much good work of that kind. The Romans seem to have as great a dislike to paintings upon windows as the Angli- cans have to paintings upon walls. Christ Church Cathedral, reminding the tra- veller of the beautiful Cathedral at Salisbury, and commemorating the taste and energy of the first resident Anglican Bishop of Montreal, Dr. Fulford, whose memorial stands close by on its eastern side. This group of buildings, though in point of size not 80 imposing as some of the Eornan Catholic churches, far surpasses them in unity and beauty of architectural style and in strict correctness of pro- portion. The Fulford Memorial resembles the much-admired Martyrs' Memorial at Oxford, and was erected by public subscription in honour of a man much beloved. The church is built of Mon- treal limestone, faced with white sandstone brought from Caen in Normandy. Its dimensions are : total length 212 feet, length of transept 100 feet, height of spire 224 feet. The church is built in the form of a Latin cross in the early English style of architectiu'c. The height of the nave is 67 feet. In point of interior decoration the church is cold, but this effect is relieved by the colours in the stained windows. The western window is very beautiful, as also are those in the transept and some of those in the nave. The capitals of the columns are carved 70 CHURCHES. in imitation of different Canadian plants, and the Beats in the choir are very handsome. A passage leads to the Chapter house, an octagonal building harmonious in style, and aiding the general effect with its broken outlines. Noticeable in the church is the font, a very beautiful work presented by a parishioner. The bust of Bishop Fulford is near it. In rear of the Cathedral and facing the same way are Bishopscourt, the residence of the Bishop, and the Rectory, the residence of the Dean and Kector of the church. St. George's Church.— This chm-ch is admirably situated at the south-west corner of Dominion square, at the junction of Osborne and Windsor streets, and is one of the largest Protestant Episco- pal churches of the city. The architecture is an adaptation of thirteenth century Gothic. Its material is native limestone, with the decorative parts in sandstone from Ohio. It has a handsome stone porch, the nave is unobstructed with piers, and the roof, with its wide span, has been much ad- mired. The tower and spire which is wanted to complete the design will be shortly built, and is to be 230 feet high from ground to apex. The schools in connection with the church meet in a separate building adjoining the chm^ch, which is used for public pp.rochial schools as well as Sunduy schools. The present edifice was completed in 18*70; the CHURCHES. *Jl building in rear of tho church facing on Windsor street is tho Rectory. St. Stephen's Church.—This church at present is only pai'tly finished, and divine service is at present conducted in the basement. It stands between Chaboillez Square and the Ilay-market. It is an early English structure specially adapted to the requirements of our Canadian climate, and to the needs of a poor congregation. Thus the schoolroom, which is in the basement, is warmed by the same apparatus as the chm'ch, but is, unlike most other basements, entirely above ground, and so protected against damp. It is illuminated by the lower parts of main windows, the upper parts of which, and the clerestory, alford light to the church. The base- ment is a marvel of economy of space. The congi^e-" gation, which is the parent of that of St. James the Apostle, and has only lately moved into the present building, dates from the year 1834. Church of St. James the Apostle.— This chui'ch is pleasantly situated upon St. Catherine street west. It is a solid, but unpretending early Eng- lish structure. The tower and spire are well placed at the entrance of the church, which con- tains some good stained glass memorial windows. The stalls and reredos are of butterwood and are much admired. The pulpit is a very handsome work in Caen stone and Egyptian marble. The congregation, which is one of the latest, if not tho ^2 CHURCHES. least of our Protestant Episcopal societies, is an offshoot of the earlier St. Stephen's Church. The great attraction of the church of St. James the Apostle is the Sunday afternoon litany service, discontinued dui'ing the summer months. The musical part of the services receive special atten- tion at all times. Other Anglicar churches are St. John the Evan- gelist's, on St. TJi'bain street ; St. Martin's, on Upper St. Urbain street ; Trinity, on St. Denis street ; St. Thomas', on St. Mary street ; St. Luke's, on Dor- chester street east ; St. Jude's, on Coursol street ; Grace Church, Point St. Charles; St. Mary's, at Hocnelaga; and L'Eglise duEedempteur (French), on St. Joseph street. Presbyterian Churches.— The different Presby- terian bodies of Canada were united a few years ago into one, under the name of The Presbyterian Church of Canada The union was objected to b}' a few of the ministers of the '' Old Kirk," and one important congregation in Montreal, that of St. Andrew's, still holds out against it. Crescent Street Church.— This imposing edifice is built of Montreal li-ibstonc, and is situated on the corner of Dorchester and Crescent street. It is a Gothic church of the 13th century French style, specially adapted to the modern require- ments of congregational worship. The seats tire arranged in curves round the piilplt at the end of mrmammm CHURCHES. TS the church, and the spectator, judging from the in- terior , would pronounce the building to be circular or octagonal. It possesses a dignified front with three portals, deeply recessed and moulded. The tower and spire are of graceful design, and are toge- ther 21t feet high. At the back of the church is a spacious lecture hall and Sunday school room form- ing a two story building. This congregation was founded in 1844 after the disruption of the Church of Scotland as a Free Church. The first church was in Cottd street. The congregation removed to the present one in 18Y8. St. Paul's Church, at the corner of St. Monique street is undoubtedly one of the most striking edi- fices on Dorchester street. The tower has been added during the present year. The church is Duilt in the early English style, of Montreal lime- stone with Ohio stone dressings. The interior, which is well laid out, is spanned hy a hammer- beamed open-timbered roof. The congregation dates from 1832, and adhered to the Church of Scotlanc' until the union of all the Presbyterian bodies above referred to. The original church was in St. Helen street. The present one was opened in 1868. St. Andrew's Church is built upon a very im- posing b .e on Beaver Hall Hill, and cannot fail to arrest the attention of a stranger. It is in Gothic style, built of cut limestone. The steps and portico ?4 CHLUCHES. are especially fine, and the stained glass window adds much to the effect of the interior. The con- gregation was founded in 1804. The first church was on St. Peter street, near St. Sacrament street. In 1851 the present building was opened for wor- ship. This chai'ch did not consent to the union and belongs, not to the '^ Presbyterian Church of Canada," but to the ''Presbyterian Church of Canada in connection with the Church of Scotland." The spire is 180 feet high, and is of very graceful proportions. Erskine Church, corner of Peel and St. Cathe- rine street, is a very handsome church, built of rough limestone, faced with dressed stone. The aiflPerence of colour between the dressed and uncut, Montreal limestone, makes a very pleasing relief in buildings composed of both. The church is Gothic in style, and of good proportions. The con- gregation was originally founded in 1830 as a United Presbyterian Secession Church. Knox Church, upon Dorchester street, is also a fine church. It is an offshoot of the first Presby- terian congregation of Montreal in St. Gabriel street. Th'3 American Presbyterian Church will at- tract the attention of strangers from the United States, being planned after American models. It is built of cut limestone, and has two towers of unequal height and differing styles. The fittings ss^mmssammmi CHURCHES. 75 of the church are handsome and comfortable, and it is well laid out for hearing. The organ is the largest and most costly in the city. This church is in connection with the Presbyterian Church of the United States. The St. Gabriel Street Church. — This is the most interesting chui^ch historically of all the Protestant churches of Montreal, for it was the first one built. It was erected in 1^92, and its bell is the oldest Protestant bell in Canada. Here the Scotch regiments used to assemble for worship in the days when British troops were stationed in Canada. In outward appearance it is not beautiful, but it has a quaint appearance of antiquity which attracts attention. There are many other Presbyterian churches in Montreal, St. Matthew's, at Point St. Charles ; St. Joseph street Chui'ch; Chalmers' Church, St. Lawrence street; Church of the Saviour (French), Canning street ; St. Mark's Church, William street ; Stanley Street Church, &c., &c. T?he Methodist Church.— This is a veryinfluential body, and possesses eleven churches in Montreal. The chief are The St. James Street Church, which is very large, and will seat about 2,500 people. The inte- rior arrangements are admirable, and the fittings and stained glass are good. When this church is filled, as it often is, on some anniversary service, it m ♦76 CHURCLviS. presents a very striking appearance on account of the amphitheatre-like arrangement of the seats. The Dorchester Street Church is a handsome chmxh of Gothic style. The French Methodist Church is in Craig street. Sei'vices are conducted in the French language. Other Protestant Churches.— The First Baptist church is a handsome cut stone building at the cor- ner of St. Catherine and City Councillors' street. This body has three churches in Montreal. The Church of the Messiah is a fine church within and without. It belongs to the Unitaiian body, and is situated on Beaver Hall Hill. Emmanuel Church.— Close to Drummond street, upon the north side of St. Catherine street, stands the Congregational Church of Emmanuel, in the early English style with basement. The interior is well lighted and spacious. The Congregational body have four churches in Montreal. There are in Montreal 74 church edifices, many of them very large and costly, being more than one to every 2,000 of the total population. There are also congregations which have no church build- ing proper. Besides these mentioned above there are two synagogues, one German Protestant church, one Eeformed Ej)iscopal, one Swedenborgian, one Advent Church. There are five Protestant churches in which the services are conducted in the French language. BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS. 7T BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS. Montreal is as remarkable for the number and variety of its philanthropic institutions as it is for the number of its churches. This results naturally from the circumstances attending its foundation, and from the mixture of religions, languages, and races which followed. We have space for notice ot a very few of these institutions. There are a vast number of smaller ones which cannot even bo enumerated. Every congregation has its own con- gregational charities. Every national society has its '' home " for those of ite own nationality. The St. George's Society for English, S<:. Andrew's for Scotch, St. Patrick's for Catholic Irish, the Irish Benevolent Society for Protestant Irish, the Ger- man Society for Germans, and, strangely enough, iibe French Canadians, who might naturally be sup- posed to be at home here, have a National Society — St. John the Baptist's. Then there are many working-mens' benefit societies — French, Irish, and English. There are colonization societies. Societies for prayer and good works generally, for the refor- mation of outcast women, for the training of outcast children, for widows and orphans, &c. It would be difficult to mention any philanthropic object which is not covered by some institution. The social or- ganization of Montreal is so composite, that in order to work well many institutions require to be in triplicate at least. Eace and language divide the Fi'ench from the English and Irish, and religion *78 BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS. divides the English from the French and Irish. These last are sub-divided by religion, so that they require two separate national benevolent societies. It is this which makes variety in Montreal life and emulation in its institutions. The French and English races flow on side by side like the two great rivers opposite the city, which do not com- mingle until they reach the tide, and thus feel the influence of the great ocean into which all streams must eventually flow. Montreal General Hospital.— This building was founded in 1822 by public subscription, and has been greatly enlarged in succeeding years by the liberality ot a few wealthy citizens. There are a large number of wards for poor patients, and advice and medicine are given to a great number of out- door patients. There are private wards for those who, having means, may not have a home nor friends to attend them. Here they will receive the best medical advice and the most careful nursing. A special building is set apart for contagious diseases. The total number of in-door patients treated in the year 1880-1 was 2001. The average daily number of patients in the wards was 133. In the out-door department there were 19,540 consultations with, or prescriptions for, patients. It is estimated that 3500 was the gross number of out-door patients during the year. Protestant House of Industry and Refuge.— A large brick building on Dorchester street, BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS. 79 near Bleuiy, for a refuge for the homeless and friendless poor. During the year 1880 the number of night lodgings given were — men, 13,291, women, 1982. The average number of inmates was 117. -A soup kitchen is attached, and there k also a board of out-door relief. Such of the inmates as are able to work, earn a small revenue for the house by hiring out for light jobs and by preparing kindling wood. The institution is supported by voluntary contribu- tions, and carried on by a committee of citizens elected by the contributors annually, A country house for the accommodation of the aged and helpless inmates is in process of c ection on a farm a few miles from the city, bequeathed for that i:)urposo by the late Thomas Molson. One wing of this building will be paid for by a bequest of $16,000, left by the late President, AVilliam Workman. The main building will cost about $24,000, and is being built by the contributions of citizens. The Mackay Institution for Protestant Deaf- mutes.— The building and grounds of this useful institution were given by the late Joseph Mackay. Tlie number of pupils is twenty-three, of which thirteen are girls. It is a boarding school for the education and moral and industrial training of Protestant deaf-mutes. The rate for paying pu- pils is $120 per annum. Free admission is granted in certain cases to the children of poor Protestants residing in the province of Quebec. The building I 80 BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS. is a very handsome one, built of Montreal limestone, and is situated on the Cote St. Luc road, about two miles westward from the city. The Toung Men's Christian Association Building. — The handsome building of this institivion is situated at the corner of Craig and Radegonde streets. It is well built of rough limestone, faced with white stone, and is conspicuous by its pointed tower. A young man arriving in Montreal without friends would do well at once to visit the rooms of this association and enroll his name, if he is seeking employment. A good reading-room is opened for gratuitous use. The association does not interfere with the work of any of the churches, but seeks to aid them all by caring for friendless young men, referiing them to the pastors of the churches to which they may belong, aiding them to procure situations, and affording all information requisite to strangers. The Montreal Dispensary, founded in 1843. This is situated on St. Antoine street, No. 135. It is supported by voluntary contributions, and affords medical aid to the sick and poor of every nation- ality and religion. The attending physicians visit at their homes those who are too poor to pay and cannot go out. The total number of patients at- tended in 1881 was 7143. The Ladies Benevolent Institution, No. 31,, Berthelot street, founded in 1832 for orphans or. \ BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS. 81 fatherless childreD. The children are cared for and educated until a suitable age, when they are placed in situations where they can earn their own living. It is supported by voluntary contri- butions. A large building and extensive grounds are devoted to this charity. Protestant Inftint's Home, 'No. 508, Guy street. Founded in 18*70 as a foundling asylum and an orphan asylum. Protestant Orphan Asylum, No. 1445, St. Cathe- rine street. This institution was founded in 1822 for the care of orphan children, who arc trained and educated, and put into situations when they reach a suitable age. There are forty-one chil- dren now in the asylum. It is supported by voluntary contributions, and carried on by a com- mittf^e of ladies. The Hervey Institution, founded in 1847 under the name of the Home and School of Industry. This institution is for the training of children who have lost one or both parents. It is managed by a committee of ladies, and supported by voluntary contributions. The University Lying-in Hospital, 93, St. Urbain street, and The Women's Hospital, Dorchester street, west, are supported by voluntary contributions, and at- 6 82 BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS. tended gratis by the leading medical men of the city. Hospital of the Grey Nuns. —This great chari- ty was founded in the year 1755. The antique ana venerable pile of buildings which was at first erected on the river-side near the office of the Ocean Steam Ship Company have been pulled down to make room for warehouses, and the nuns have removed to their new hospital in Guy street, more ^^' ..^' A ># i^. '€J. Ux I/.. 1.0 I.I |50 "^ !■■ " lis III 2.2 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 i4 ^ 6" — ► m & /a % ^;. •rt '1» > A .% ¥^^ o 7 Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) G72-4S03 ;- ^ m 84 BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS. Madame de BouOlon, a Fi'ench lady of very high rank, who sent out 42,000 livres by the hands of Mons. and Madame d'Ailleboust to build a hospital at Montreal. As there was not room in the little fort for such a building, a site was chosen near at hand (now covered by a block of warehouses in St. Paul's street, called ^N'un's buildings), and a build- ing erected, which was surrounded by palisades and garripcned against the Iroquois, who prowled incessantly round the infant colony. There Made- moiselle Mance took up her abode. Obedient to a supernatural call, she had left an honoui'ed and peaceful home to serve God in this beautiful wil- derness infested by cruel savages, and, with three women, the only companions of her sex, she fear lessly commenced the work of which the results have been so great. The present buildings were completed in 1861, and are situated at the head of St. Famille street. Over 3,000 sick persons are annually received, and the number of professed sisters and novices in attendance is about eighty. This establish- ment is cairied on at an annual expenditui'o of $32,000. Convent of the Grood Shepherd, Sherbrooke street. — This is an institution for the reformation of women and children, candied on by the Sisters of Charity of the Good Shepherd. There are 59 nuns besides novices and postulants It was founded in 1844. \ BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS. 85 Eoman Catholic Orphan Asylum-1135 St. Ca- therine street. Founded in 1832. The Deaf and Dumb Instit-tion.- This was founded in 1848 for the instruction of deaf Tnd dun.b boys^ It i, carried on by the Clerks of St Vmtor, a Eoman Catholic religious order. Instruc- cires."" "'''"'^' ''"* '^''' ^'' ^^° ^"g"«h Asile de la Providence, founded in 1828, and earned on by the Sisters of Providence on St. Catherine street, for aged and infirm persons orphans, &c. These sisters number over 80 Thev have schools with 600 pupils, an asylum for deaf Sts'^f r r^''f ' " ^'«P«««^'X and they make visits of relief, and go out nursing the sick and poor. These nuns have the following institutions iider tueir care : — Dispensary, founded in 1863. fou^^ded&i f» deS J^"^"' ,*" ^*- ^"^' Street, and 215 pupils ^ ^"""^ S"'''' containing 32 nuns 39fpupiii^"^^' ^''^°°^' «*• ^^'"^ »'««*. 10 nuns..nd phSs^P'"^ ®*- '^^^'«' '•Of orphans; 4 nuns and 135 or- Btr^tftdy bote'^ ^^ ^" Providence, Mignonne St. Vincent de Paul Infent School. Visitation su-eet ; 14 nuns and 696 pupils. 86 EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. Asile du St. Enfant Jesus, Coteau St. Louis, f( - vi- siting the sick and poor ; 9 nuns and 201 pupils. Sacred Heart Infant School, Fullum street ; 6 nuns and 226 pupils. Visits are made also to the sick, and to the prisoners in the jail. Besides the precedii-sj^ institutions there are Tem- perance Societies, Eands of Hope, Odd Fellows Societies, Burial Societies, and numberless others. For the protection of dumb aninals there is a very active and etticient Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals ; office, No. 199 St. James' sireet. During the past year forty convictions were obtained by the efforts of this society. EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. The question of public instruction which so pro- foundly agitates all mixed communities has long been settled in Lower Canada. There is a Superin- tendent of Education for the whole province, assisted by a Eoman Catholic Board for Eoman Catholic schools, and a Protestant Board with a Secretary for Protestant schools. Upon the Eoman Catholic Board all the Bishops of that communion sit per- sonally or by procuration. The Protestant Board is nominated so as to represent the various Protes- tant bodies. The school law for Montreal is in some respects peculiar. An assessment of one-fifth of one per cent, is levied annually upon all the real EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. SI estate in the city, collected by the City Treasurer with the other taxes, and handed over to the two city boards of Protestant and Catholic School Com- missioners. The tax on the property of Protestants goes to the Protestant Board, and that on the pro- perty of Catholics to the Catholic Board. McGill University.— McGill University owes its origin to the wealthy and patriotic citizen of Montreal, whose name it bears ; and its subsequent progress has been due to the liberality of other citizens of Montreal who have added to the original foundation endowments of chairs and scholarships, and gifts in buildings, books, specimens and appa- I'atus. James McGill was born on the Gth October, 1744, in Glasgow, Scotland. He received his early training and education in that country, but of these little is known. He arrived in Canada before the American revolution, and appears, in the first place, to have engaged in the North-west fur trade, then one of the leading branches of business in Canada. Subsequently he settled in Montreal, and, in partnership with his brother Andrew, became one of the leading merchants in the little town of about nine thousand inhabitants which then represented our commercial metropolis. He died in 1813, leaving hi' propert}^ for the foundation of a college, to be called by his Mame, and under the management of an educational body then recently established by law, though not ac- 88 EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. ^ tually instituted, and entitled the '' Eoyal Institu- tion for the Advanccme';t of Learning." Owing to litigation as to the will, the property did not be- come immediately available, and it was not till 1821 that the institution was granted University powers by Eoyal charter. The value of the property bequeathed by Mi\ McGill w^as estimated, at the time of his death, at £30,000 : it has since become much more valuable, owing to the growth of the city. The sum was not large in comparison witL many other educational bequests ; but it would be difficult to estimate its value to Canada in general, and to Montreal in par- ticular. Gathering around it the gifts of other liberal men, it has sustained the McGill University, i and carried it on to its present point of usefulness and success as a source of literary and scientific culture. Indirectly, it has benefited the cause of common and grammar-school education, through the action of the Eoyal Institution, through the services of students and graduates as teachers, and through the McGill Normal School, which, though supported by Government, would scarcely have been established but for the influence of the col- lege. Those "who have in these ways received its educational benefits are to be found in all parts of the country, contributing by supei-ior skill and in- telligence to the common good. An endowment of this kind is, probably, of all investments of money, that which yields the richest returns. The ex- perience of older nations has shown that such en- EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 89 dowments survive changes of religion, of dynasty, of social and political systems, and go on bearing fruit from ago to age. It will, doubtless, be so hero also, and the time will come when the original en- dowment of McGill will appear but as the little germ from which a great tree has sprung — the spring which gives birth to a mighty river. Already, through Mr. McGill and those who have followed his example, as benefactors to this Univer- sity, the English of Tlontreal may boast of having created a collegiate institution, second to none in the country. At the present time the property of McGill university may be estimated at more than half a million of dollars, it has forty professors and lecturers, embracing some of the most eminent men in their departments in the Dominion, and its students may be stated in round numbers as about 500. The latest large benefaction which it has re- ceived is the Peter Eedpath Museum, which is valued at moj.e than $100,000, and is to bo opened at the approaching meeting of the American Asso- ciation. It has four Faculties — of Arts, Applied Science, Medicine, and Law. Being non-denomina- tional it has no Theological Faculty, but it offers advantageous terms of affiliation to Theological Colleges, whereby their students can have the l)enefit of its classes and degrees, and it has already foui* such colleges, representing four of the lead- ing Protestant denominations. It has also two affiliated colleges in Arts — Morrin College, Quebec, 90 EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. and St. Francis College, Eichmond. The McGill Normal School for training teachers for the Protes- tant population of the Province of Quebec is an affiliated school. Its buildings are pleasantly situated in grounds laid out in walks and ornamented with trees, at the foot of the Montreal mountain, and, though most of them are unpretending in exterior, they are substantially built of stone, and are well adap- ted for the purposes of education. The collections in geology and natural history are extensive and valuable. It has an excellent philosophical appara- tus and collections of models in mining and engineer- ing and also good chemical and physiological labora- tories. It has a V.brary of 20,000 volumes in ad- dition to its medical library, and though these libraries are not large, they include an unusually choice and valuable selection of books. Though the university has existed since 1821, and its endowment since 1813, its actual history as an important educational institution dates from the amendments of its charter and the re-organi2:ation, of its general body in 1852. It is thus a compara- tively new institution, and is perhaps to be judged rather by the indications of vitality and growth which it i^resents than by its past results. It has, however, already more than 1200 graduates, many of them occupying important public positions in Canada and elsewhere. EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 91 FACULTIES OF McGILL COLLEGE. The Faculty of Arts—The complete course of study extends over four sessions, of eight months each, and includes Classics and Mathematics, Experimental Physics, English Literature, Logic, Mental and Moral Science, Natural Science and one modern language, or Hebrew. The course of study leads to the degree of B.A., M.A., and LL. D. The Faculty of Applied Science provides a thorough professional train.'ng, extending over three or Ic - years in Civil Engineering, Mechanical Eugineering, Mining Engineer- ing and Assaying, and Practical Chemistry, leading to the degrees ofBachelor of Applied Science, Master of Engineer- ing, and Master of Applied Science. The Faculty of Medicine.— The complete course of study in medicine extends over four sessions, of six months each,^ and leads to the degree of M.D., CM. There is also a summer course, which is optional. The Faculty occupies a separate building to the north of the grounds. It is the most important Medical School in Canada and draws its students from all parts of the Domi- nion. The class tickets of the Faculty are recognised in all the great Medical Schools in England. The University Lying-in Institution and the Montreal General Hospital afford great facilities for hospital practice. The library con- tains 7,000 volumes. The Faculty of Law— The complete course in law ex- tends over three sessions, of six months each, and leads to the degrees of B.C.L., and D.C.L. 92 EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. Presbyterian College of Mv^ntreal.— This institu- tion is affiliated with McGill University on terms set forth in the calendar of the University. It is devoted entirely to the training of missionaries and ministers speaking English, Fj*ench, and Gaelic in connection with the Presbyterian Church in Oanada. It is under the control of the general as- sembly of said church. The first meeting to take steps to establish it was held on January 0th, 1864. Its charter was ob- tained in 1865, and the Rev. Dr. D. H. MacVicar was appointed Professor of Theology by the Synod in 1868, when the work of the college was com- menced in the lecture room of Erskine church. From so small a beginning the college has grown imtil it has now eighty graduates and seventy-two students, a library of over 10,000 volumes, buildings and endowments which exceed a quarter of a million dollars in value. This amount has been drawn chiefly from Montreal and the immediate neighbourhood. It offers numerous prizes for com- petition, besides twenty Scholarships of from $100 to $40 each, a gold medal, and a fellowship of $500. During the past year the college has received from Mrs. Eedpath, of TeiTace Bank, Montreal, $20,000 for the endowment of the '' John Eedpath Chair," and from Mr. Edward Mackay $40,000, and from the estate of the late Mr. Joseph Mackay a bequest of $10,000, both amounts being designated for the endowment of the " Joseph Mackay Chair." EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 93 The original college building is a stone edifice, elegant and commodious, pleasantly situated on the rising gi'ound above the city, commanding a view of the University gi'oun da, the city, and the scenery of the St. Lawi'ence. To this has been added during the present year by the large-hearted generosity of the Chairman of the CoFlege Board, Mr. David Morrice, an elegant and much more extensive series of stone buildings, designated by the Board as the Morrice Hall, including convocation hall and library, dining hall, dormitories and offices, form- ing with the original building three sides of a large quadrangle. In external equipment the college is thus inferior to no Theological institution on the continent. In addition to its halls, library, lecture rooms and offices, it contains numerous studies and dormi- tories for resident students, together with bath rooms and other modern conveniences. The rooms are comfortably furnished, and the whole building, including the individual rooms, is well ventilated, heated with hot-water pipes, and lighted with gas. Eesident students are furnished with rooms, heating and light, free of expense ; but the refec- tory and attendance of servants are in the hands of the steward, whose fee will in no case exceed $12 per month, and who is responsible to the board of management for the efficiency of his service. The Wesleyan Theological College. — This col lege was founded in 1873, and incorporated and 94 EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. affiliated to McGill University in 1879. It is de- voted to the instruction and training of ministers for the Wesleyan church. It is under the care of a Principal, who, with the other professors, gives instruction upon all the subjects required for a complete Theological course. For mental philo- sophy, ethics, logic, and the natural sciences, the .students attend lectures at McGill College. Suita- ble and commodious buildings are now being •erected on University street, at the northern en- trance to the McGill College grounds. The num- ber of students is twenty, of whom eight are Rench. The Congregational College. — This institution lias as yet no building of its own. A fund of a considerable amount is, however, in han^ and before long will be applied to the erection of a col- lege building. There ai 3 four professors and ten students. Students are trained up here for the ministry in the congregational churches of Canada- The college is affiliated to McGill University. The Anglican Diocesan College. — This is the training college of students for the ministry of the Church of England in the Diocese of Montreal. It was founded by Bishop Oxenden, and this year has been removed from the Synod building into a hand- some and commodious building opposite the Wind- c8or Hotel in Dorchester street. It is under the •care of a Principal and five professors. Number of -Students twenty. The college is affiliated to McGill EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 95 University from whence the students derive their degiees in Arts. University of Bishop's College.— The Theologi- cal and Arts Faculties of this University are at Lennoxville. The Medical Faculty is at Montreal. It occupies a large and suitable building on On- tario street, and has a staff of seventeen professors, and the number of students is tifty-five. The course of instruction is complete, and the class tickets for the various departments are accepted by the Royal College of Surgeons, the Royal College of Phy- sicians, London, and the Royal College of Phy- sicians, Edinburgh. The students iiave access to the Montreal General Hospital (220 beds), the Wes- tern Hospital (50 beds), and the Hotel Dieu Hos- pital (175 beds). The college has every facility for teaching in the way of museum and labora- tories. The physiological and histological labora- tories are very .jmplete. The McGill Normal School— situated on Belmont street, is an institution under the Government school law for training teachers for the Pro- testant schools. Thcve are nine professors and 126 students. The school is affiliated to the McGill University, and six members of the corporation of that institution assist the Su])erintendent of Educa- tion in its direction. The comjolete course of study is very thorough, extending over three years. Students are graded into three classes, those study- ing for an Elementary school diploma, for a Model 96 EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. school diploma, and for an Academy diploma. The training and instruction in the Normal school is supplemented by practice in the two Model schools which are attached. These contain 300 pupils. The education in the Normal school is gratis, but those who are admitted must sign an obligation to teach for at least three years, and must have passed an examination. The Protestant Board of School Commissioners, — This is a Board of six members, three of whom are appointed by the Quebec Government, and three by the Corporation of the city. It is consti- tuted for administering funds raised for the public city schools. The gross income of the board is $94,400, raised as follows : From the city tax of one-fifth of one per cent, on the real estate of Protestants, $64,400, from the Government of the province, $5000, from school fees, $25,000. The amount required for building school houses was raised by debentures bearing interest at six per cent., with a sinking fuud of two per cent. The amount of interest and smking fund is deducted by the City Treasurer before handing over the assess- ments. The schools under the care of the board are the following : — High School for Boys. — A classical school Isading up to the University, 18 teachers, 333 pupils. High School for Girls.— -15 teachers, 182 pupils. Senior School. — A commercial school to complete the education of those from the common schools who do net wish l/SKii^S^ap: EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 9T to go to college or be taught the classical languages, sevea teachers, 119 pupils. Point St. Charles Elementary School. . . . Mill Street Royal Arthur Ann Street Ontario Street British and Canadian Sherbrooke Street Dorchester Street Panet Street ii a It tt u (( . 100 EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. The site of these buildings is one of the most beautiful near Montreal. It is upon the slope of the little mountain, and the ground has been ter- raced and planted with trees. Every appliance for teaching, and convenience for the health and recrea- tion of pupils, has been provided out of the ample revenues of the seminary. The older portion of the building in Notre Dame street is worth a visit, if only to see what substan- tial work was done by Montreal masons two hun- dred years ago. In the very heart of the busy city one step will bring the tourist into a quiet garden surrounded by ecclesiastical buildings and pervaded by an ai:' of antiquity which is not met with in America - atoide of this Province. Laval Ui- /ersity.— What McGill University is to the English and Protestants of the Province, the University of Laval is to the Ei^ench and Eoman Catholic. The chief seat of this institution is at Quebec city, and it is under the auspices and management of the Seminary of Quebec, who pro- vided the funds for its erection. The branch col- lege at Montreal is not a separate college, but an integral part of the University, the professors of both ranking Indifferently according to seniority. The Vice-rector of the University resides at Mon- treal, and there is a resident Dean of each faculty The Faculty of Arts is not yet organised. The Faculty of Theology is held in the building of the Seminary of St, Sulpice, in Sherbrooke street. EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 101 There is a large staff of professors, and over two hundred students, most of whom are from the United States and the neighbouring provinces of the Dominion. The Faculty of Law meets in the Cabinet de Lecture opposite the Seminaiy building, in Notre Dame street. It has eighty students and a large staff of professors, among whom are the Hon. P. J. O. Chauveau, formerly Premier and Minister of Public Instruction, Hon. Mr. Chapleau, the present Premier, and Justices Jett^ and Loranger. The Dean is Mr. C. S. Cherrier, the oldest baiTister in Montreal. The Faculty of Medi- cine is in the old Government House, on Notre Dame street, where resides also the Yice-rector. There are 18 professors and 80 students in this faculty. The establishment of Laval University at Mon- treal profoundly agitated the French community. It was opposed with great vehemence and perti- nacity by the late Bishop of Montreal, now an Archbishop in partibus, and by the Bishop of Three Elvers, and supported by the Archbishop of the Province, the Bishop of Montreal, and all the other Bishops. The matter was repeatedly referred to Eome, and a Bull was finally issued by the present Pope in favour of the University. An Act was also passed by the Legislature to confirm the rights of the college, but its constitutionality is opposed before the Privy Council at Ottawa, As soon as the question is absolutely settled, land will be pur- chased and suitable buildings erected. In the 102 EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. meantimv> the discussion goes on with great viva- city. The building in which the Medical Faculty holds its sessions is one of the old landmarks of the ^it}-. It was built in the year 1704 by th"^ Chevalier de Ramesay, father of the officer who surrendered Quebec after Wolfe's victory. DeEa^nesay was Governor of Montreal, and this Chateau was in the most fashionable part of the city, close to the resi- dences of the Marquis de Yaudreuil, the Count de Contrecceur, the Count d'Eschambault, the Count de Beaujeu, and other r/)blemen of the French period. When the revolutionary army occupied Montreal General Wooster's headquarters were in this build- ing ; General Benedict Arnold afterwards occupied it, and here resided, in the winter of 1775-76, Ben- jamin Franklin, Samuel Chase, and Charles Carroll of Carrolltown, who were sent by Congress to win the Canadians over to the revolutionary side. Their errand was abortive, for the French clergy and noblesse produced some campaign documents of Congress printed for distribution in other places than Canada, and which even the ingenious Franklin was. unable to explain away. Charles Carroll's brother^ a Catholic priest, afterwards first Bishop of Balti- more, came on to assist, but without success. The British Governors continued to use the building as the Government House until Lord Elgin's time, when the seat of government was moved from Mon- treal after the Governor was stoned and the Par- liament House burned. Subsequently it was occu- EDUCATIONAL INSTIIUTION?. 103 pied by the Quebec Government for the Jacques Cartier Normal School. It is a long low building with thick walls, and very substantially built. It is as strong now as it was tIS years ago when it wat*erected. Si. Mary's College. — This institution is carried on by the Jesuit fathers. It adjoins the church of the Gesu, and occupies a very conspicuous site on Bleury street. It was founded in the year 1848, and removed to the present building in 1855. The design comprises a portico and colonnade on the southern fagade, which are still required to give com- pleteness to the architectural effect. The building is 225 feet long by 50 wide. The pupils number 340, many of whom are from the United States. The course of study is divided into two depart- ments, classical and commercial. The classical side comprises Greek, Latin, Mathematics, Philoso- phy, and such other subjects as are requisite for a profession. The commercial side is taught for the most part in English, and comprises the modern languages and literature, mathematics, book-keep- ing, and such other subjects as are required for business men. The college possesses a museum, containing a rich collection of mineral specimens mostly from British America. It possesses also a good collection of apparatus for scientific search, and a well fui'- nished laboratory for applied science. The sciences of physiology, botany and zoology are illustrated by 104 EDUCATIONAL mS'^ITUTIONS an exteDsivo collection of elaetic modols. Tiiere are three libraries connected with the college, and a good collection of coins and medals. The aca- demic hall is 'inder the church. It is built in the style of an amphitheatre, and holds 1200 people. •It is furnis^ied with p stage, scenery, and costumes, and here during the winter the students give dra- matic, literary and musical entertainments. The Jttcques-Cartier Normal School.— This is an establishment of the Provincial Government for the training of teachers for the Catholic public schools of the province. The Abbd Yerreau is the Principal, assisted by nine professors and a librarian. It is provided with model schools to afford practical training for teachers. The course of study covers three years. The school has lately removed to a very handsome and commodious new building in modern French style on Sherbrooke street east, on the locality known as Logan's farm. The building is of Montreal limestone, and the site is very commanding. Every facility for thorough teaching is pro^'ided. The number of pupils in training is seventy-six. The Eoman Catholic School Commission.— This board corresponds to the English board described on page 96. It is constituted in the same manner for carrying on the public schools for Eoman Ca- tholic children, Irish as well as French. The gross income cf the board is SSYjTOd, of which $62,906 was received from the city school tax, EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 105 f<15.i22 fromtho Government education grant, and $9766 from pupils' fees. From this the interest and sinking fund on the debentures sold to build school houses hap to bo deducted. The board has 25 schools, 144 teachers, and Y,005 pupils under it« care. It carries on also a polytechnic school, divided into four courses — Civil Engineering, Mining and Metallurgy, Machinery and working in Metals, Technology. There are seven professors, and a good laboratory and apparatus is provided. The building in which the school is held contains also accommodation for the Commercial i^cademy. It is situated in extensive grounds between 8t. Catherine and Ontario streets, and is a remarkably fine and solid edifice in handsome architectural style, and is well suited to its purpose. The following schools are carried on by the board : No. of Pupils. 1 Plateau Commercial Academy 336 Boys, 2 Montcalm School 370 do 3Champlain " 374 do 4Sarsfield " •••• 273 do 5Belmont " 375 do eOlicr " 367 do 7Plessis " 338 do SSt.Bridpret " 473 do 9 School 256 Notre Dame street 163 Oirls. 10 do Mullinsstreet 281 do 11 do St. Catherine street , 301 do 12 do corner Maisonneuve and Ontario street 704 do 13 do " Visitation and Craig " 743 do 14 do " Mignonne and St. Denis " 109 do 15 do for the blind 34 Boys and Girls. •16 do 7 St. Elizabeth street 341 do 17 do 165 " " 78 do 18 do 526St. Mary " 154 do 19 do 39St. Antoine *' 138 do 20 do corner Cadieux and Roy streets 223 Girls. 21 do 312 Lo?an street 161 Boys and Girls. 22 do 250Panet " 96 do 23 do 474 St. Catherine street 87 do 24 do 199Canuing " 267 do 25 do 624 St. Catherine " 187 do Evening School 12 Young Men* lOG EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. The Christian Brothers' Schools.— The head quar- ters in America of this celebrated teaching oixlor is at Montreal, and the chief establifshment is in Coti4 btreet. They have on the island of Montreal eleven schools, all for boys, with an average atten- dance of 4,378 pupils. Tho schools for Roman Catholic girls are chiefly carried on by religious orders. Their establish- ments ai'c very numerous. The chief are the fol- lowing : — The Sisters of the Congregation of Notre-Dame. — This body of religious ladies have a very large number of establishments for the education of girls, all of which are managed from the mother house fti St. Jean Baptisto street. This religious community was founded by Marguerite Bourgeois, a lady who, in the year 1653, gave all her property to the poor, and c.imc out to Canada with Maison- neuve oi: his second voyage, to establish an institu- tion for the education of the female children of the French settlers and of the savage nations of Canada. She was not born of a noble family, but she had in an eminent degree that nobility which no written parchments can bestow, flowing from a heart humble, and yet brave, earnestly religious, f nd yet with a gutet enthusiasm. '' To this day," says Parkman, '4n crowded schoolrooms of Montreal and Quebec, fit monuments of her unobtrusive virtue, her successors instruct the children of the poor and embalm the pleasant memory of Mar- EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. lOT guerito Bourgeois. In the martial figure of Maison- neuve and the fair form of this gentle nun wo find the two heroes of Montreal." As before stated, the mother house of this com- munity is in St. Jean Baptiste Street. The chapel is entered by an archway from Notre Dame street. It was built in 1856 and dedicated to Notro Dame de Piti^, upon the site of a church erected in 1G93. by Marguei'ite Bourgeois. The buildings around in the court and those in St. Jean Baptiste street have a yevy venerable air. From this house the move- ments of the whole community are directed. The sisters have a very large establishment at Villa Maria, formerly the residence of the Governor- General, about three miles from the city, and an- other, Mount St. Mary, in Guy street, both for boarding pupils. In the city of Montreal they have seventeen establishments and 5,117 pupils. Some idea of the extent of the operations of these ladies may be given when we say that, be- sides their establishments in Canada proper, they have houses in Nova Scotia, Cape-Breton, and Prince Edward Island ; in Connecticut, in Massa- chusetts, in Maine, in Yermont, and in Illinois.. They number 500 professed sisters and 100 novices,, and have at the present time between 1G,000 and. 1*7,000 pupils under their care. The Religious of the Sacred Heart. These ladies^ have three establishments on the island. The chief one is at Sault-au-EecoUet, upon a beautiful site on 108 EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. tho Icivi6re-do8-Prairio8, about nino miles from the city, and contains 148 ' oai*dor8. A secondary school is attached with 40 pupils. In the city they have a select school for young ladies with 75 pupils at No. 1166, St. Catherine street. The Hochelaga Convent.— This institution is car- ried on by the sisters of the Holy Names of Jesus and Mary, a religious oi-der which has thirty- four branch establishments in the United States and Canada, and teaches between eight and nine thousand children. This is the mother house of the oi-dcr. It is beautifully situated on tho river St. Lawrence about one mile below the city, and is a very large and commodious building, with a handsome cut stone fa9ade. The number of young lady boarders is over 200, from all parts of the United States and Canada. In a branch establish- ment at St. Jean Baptiste village tho sisters have 400 pupils in a parochial and select school. All branches of education are taught in English and French. Special facilities for learning French xire provided, and the departments of needle work and domestic training receive special attention. A museum with a good ornithological collection is attached to the convent. In the preceding notices, reference is made only to the chief public educational institutions. There are many excellent proprietary schools both for day- flch'^^ars and boarders to the latter of which pupils I 1 EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 101> from all parte of the Dominion and from the United States are sent. Veterinary College.-Montreal possesses a very important school of Veterinaiy Science, ander thl care of Principal McEachran. Studente from a great distance come to attend this college. It has SIX professors besides the Principal. Board of Arts Schools.~In addition to the edu- cational institutions already alluded to, the Free Evening Di-awing Classes conducted under the direction of the Council of Arts and Manufactures of the Province of Quebec, are worthy of note These classes are entirely free and are intended' chiefly for artisans and apprentices. Instruction IS given in free-han^^ and object drawing and de- signing, and also in mechanical arr^ architectui-al drawing and modelling. The classes are opea during the winter months ; they are well attended and are doing a good work, a medal and diploma having been awarded to a collection o f" drawings sent to the Paris Exhibition of 1878. 110 LIBRARIES. SCIENCE, LITERATURE AND ARTS. Libraries.— The population of Montreal is not «ufficiently homogenous to make a large general library possible. McGill College possesses 20,000 Tolumes in general literature. The best feature in this library is the English historical section, which is mainly the gift of Mr. Peter Eedpath. The Medical Faculty has a separate library of I'OOO Tolumes. In Law, the Advocates' Library in the Coui^t House has about 10,000 volumes, and is specially full in the department of French Civil Law. In Theology, the Presbyterian College has 10,000 volu- mes of well selected and useful works for the training of students and the use of the professors- The complete Patrology of the Abb^ Migne is in this collection. The Jesuits have three libraries in St Mary's College. One of 10,000 volumes is the private library of the Jesuit fathers. It con- sists of books upon biblical, theological, patristic, and classical subjects. The works of the Bollandists •can be found there. The library for the use of the studentia contains 3,000 volumes. In the hall of the Union Catholique, below the Jesuits' church, there is a public library and reading room, con- taining 20,000 volumes in French and English, and ^ selection of periodical literature. The Seminary of St. Sulpice has a large library in the old building on Notre Dame street. This ' LIBRARIES. alsocontmnsasetofthe Bollandista. At the col- lege in Sherbrooke street is the Theological library library of the Little Seminary. ^ The Mechanics' Institute has a lendin.r library of popular books. A complete set of th^ dr^wLt ana specifications of the British Patent Office mj A public library of reference is much Tyanted in andtinW H ' v*^'"* '" ^°'""° Catholic Theology and kinared subjects can find all he requires In Protestant Theology the Presbyteiian Co, Je a" fords very good material. In civil law the Advoca- the McGn7,.h ' ""'"' '"'■ ^" ^'""'^ departments the Mc&ill hbrary is pretfy full, but if any one in Sn "f " '" ''"■'•^ "' '•^^^'•'-'^- Quiring «^oiks of reference of a more general nature ht must go to some other city. There is not in Mon- treal a complete set even of the blue books of the histoi. , politics, sociology, art, or general litera. THE FINE ARTS. }^^^'~^^^. ""'''''^' ^^^ °^ Montreal has deve- loped rapidly dm-ing the past ten years, although, perhaps manifesting itself less in a public than in a private way. Numerous amateur and profes- 112 MUSIC. sional concerts of good quality and enjoyable char- acter are given every winter. The private culti- vation of the art has created it community capable of appreciating the best music, and of criticising intelligently performances of a high order, and it invariably lends its hearty support to all musical efforts worthy of encouragement. Good choirs are maintained by nearly all the churches, both Eoman Catholic and Protestant. Prominent among the former are those of Notre Dame, St. Patrick, the Gesu, and St. James, where tiie Masses of Mozart and Ilaydn may frequently be heard. In the Protestant chui^ches part? ar attention is given to music at St. James the Apos- tle's, St. John the Evangelist's, Christ Chui'ch Cathedi-al, and at the St. James street Wesleyan Methodist, the American Presbyterian, Zion, and St. Andrew's Churches. Music is also taught at the public schools, and special care is besto'\ved upon it at all the private schools and seminaries. There are several musical societies in the city, but only two, the Mendelssohn Choir and Philhar- monic Societ}^ are regularly organized, and give public performances at stated times. The former of these, although the smaller society, has prece- dence from age, it having been in existence over sixeen ^ ears. It is a private organization, com- posed entirely of amateurs, and has a membership roll of about seventy selected voices. Its perfc/rm- MUSIC. IIH ances consist chiefly of lighter choral works and unaccompanied part-songs, in which latter style of singing the choir has attained to a high degree of excellence. The Philharmonic Society was established foui" years ago. During that time it has met and over- come many difficulties (mostly financial), and is now in a position where its ultimate success can hardly be doubted. The chorus numbers 150, and three concerts are given every winter. Since its formation the society has performed in a satisfac- tory and artistic manner several of the great choral works of Handel, Haydn, and Mendelssohn, and lighter works by less noted composers. It is as- sisted by La Soci^t^ des Symphonistes, an orches- tral association ot forty pieces organized some three years since, but now disbanded, although capable of being called together at short notice when required. The church organs of Montreal are worthy of special mention, several fine instruments having been placed in different churches in the city. The best are that in the English Cathedral, built by Hill, of London, England, and those by Warren & Sons, of Toronto (formerly of this city), in the American Presbyterian church, in Ct. Andrew's, St, George's, St. James the Apostle's, Trinity, Em- manuel, Erskine, and St. Paul's. 8 114 THE ART ASSOCIATION. Painting ^nd Sculpture.— Good works in these arts are not plentiful in this city. The Board of Arts and Manufactures carry on a number of schools for Technical Art, and progress is being made in that direction, but the citizens so far have not expended much upon really first-class works for the adornment of their houses. Still there are a few fine paintings in pi'ivate hands. The paint- ings in the Eoman Catholic churches are for the most part singularly i)Oor, and the stranger will look in vain for any treasure of art corresponding to the importance of the buildings. Notre Dame de Lourdes (see page 64) is the exception to this general rule. Much more attention has of late been drawn in this direction by the efforts of The Art Association. — This institution was in- corporated in the year 1860 under the presidency of the late Bishop Fulford, who, during his lifetime, took a deep interest in its proceedings. Its opera- tions were carried on by a council of gentlemen in- terested in art matters, and for many years, under their auspices, exhibitions were held with much success. The late Mr. Benaiah Gibb, a member of the council, died in 187*7, and bequeathed to the Association the lot of land at the corner of St. Catherine street and Phillips' Square, upon which the gallery is erected, and 8,000 dollars in money. He left also his own collection of ninety paintings and some bronzes as a nucleus for a gallery. To these, some works of art have been added by the THE ART ASSOCIATION. 115 liberality of citizens. Tlie gallery is open every week day from ton until four on payment of 25 cents. Members paying an annual subscription of five dollars, and their families are admitted free. Be- aides the permanent exhibition, special exhibitions of paintings, engravings, ceramics, and other works of art are periodically held. Lectures on kindred subjects are provided, and art classes are carried on under competent teachers. An Art Eeading Eoom to form the nucleus of an art library has* been recently started in this building. The Decorative Art Society .—The rooms of this Society are on Phillips Square. They are conduct- ed on .he same principle as the well known institu- tions of the same name in New York and London. They afford a means of interchange and disposal of objects of Art in Needle-work, Ceramics, Painting on satin, and objects of vertu generally. They are conducted by a committee of ladies. The Numismatic and Antiquarian Society.— This society has a collection of coins, but no per- manent abode. It publishes a quarterly magazine, edited by a committee of the soc' y, under the title of " The Canadian Antiquarian and Numis- matic Jom^nal." Many good papers have appeared here. The magazine has reached its tenth volume. Terms, $1.50 a year. 116 SCIENCE. Science.— The scientific interest of Montreal cen- tres round two institutions — the McGill College and the Natural History Society. We have alrea- dy referred to the former under the head of Educa- tion, page 87, and can only repeat here that the Faculty of Applied Science has 10 professors and 44 students, and is well provided with laboratories and models. The degree of Bachelor of Science is granted in this Faculty. The Natural History Society occupies a build- ing of its own in University street. It dates from the year 1827, when it was first organized. The Museum was commenced in 1832 in a building in Little St. James street, and the Society removed in 1858 to its present building. The ground flat is occupied by the lectm*c room and library. On the second flat is an excellent and extensive natural history collection and a collection of interesting objects connected with Canadian history and the native races of Canada. Besides the regular meet- ings of the society, courses of lectures are given dm'ing the winter on scientific subjects. The trans- actions of the society are published in the Canadian Naturalist, a quarterly magazine established in 1852 by the late E. Billings. In it all the papers of interest which are read at the monthly meet- ings appear, and the bound volumes of back years contain a mass of interesting and valuable informa- tion relating to the natural history of Canada which cannot be found elsewhere. AMUSEMENTS. 117 Medical Science. — Of thia department of science, Montreal is the centre, in the Dominion. As has been shown on pp. 91, 95 and 101, there are in the city three important schools of medicine, and abun- dant facilities for hospital practice. The Veteri- nary College has won a very wide reputation for its thorough and complete course. There is also an excelle*-j College of Pharmacy. AMUSEMENTS. The young people of Montreal have many amu- sements, mostly of an out-door character, both in summer and winter. Middle-aged and elderly peo- ple are not amused any more in Montreal than else- where. They are occupied generally in active business cares, lively political discussions, or in carrying on the numerous churches and benevo- lent institutions previously described. Some wise ones, however, practise golf in summer and curling in winter, as distractions. Lacrosse.— This is the national game of Canada, practised by the Indians long previous to the arrival of Europeans. It was by means of a match be- ween the Sacs and Ojibways that the savages obtained possession of Fort Michilimakinac, at the outbreak of Pontiac's war in 1763, There are nine lacrosse clubs iu Montreal. No regular times are set apart for games, but the clubs usually practise early in the morning on the grounds ^f the Mon- 118 AMUSEMENTS. treal Lacrosse Club in Sherbrooke street west, or in those of the Shamrock Club on St. Catherine street west. Matches are frequently played on Sa- turday afternoons. Cricket.— The Montreal Cricket Club is the only one in the city. Its grounds are on St. Catiierine street west. Base-Ball.— The St. Lawi^ence Base-Ball Club is the only one. This game is not much played. Foot-BalL— This is a very popular game. There are three very large clubs. One of them is formed of University students. Boating.— This amusement cannot be carried on opposite the city on account of the rapidity of the cun'ent. The young men of Montreal who indulge in it resort to Lachine or Longueui^ There are several clubs — the Longueuil Boating Clubj the Lachine Boating Club, and the Grand Trunk Boating Clubj all composed of Montrealers. The Bicycle Club.— One club of about seventy members have devoted themselves to this amuse- ment, and occasionally make processions through the streets and excursions in the country. Gk)lf.— There is a very large Golf Club, which meets at the grounds and club house on Fletcher'^ field. i^MUSEMENTS. 119 Hunting.— Montreal can boast of the largest and best conducted, hunting establishment on this con- tinent. The kennels of the Montreal Hunt Club are situated on Colborne Avenue, near Sherbrooke street, and cover t^ree and a half acres of land. They well deserve a visit because they contain the very latest and most complete conveniences for the lodging, feeding, and general comfort and hap- piness of horses and hounds. The establishment consists of one huntsman, two whippers, a kennel huntsman and an earth-stopper. Stables are pro- vided for the servants' horses and for the horses of members of the club who may come to Montreal during ^he hunting season. There are forty coaples of dogs in the kennels, including the pack which the club purchased this year from the Earl of Huntingdon. Very comfortable and convenient club-rooms are erected for the use of the members, who now number over eighty, and among whom are very many of the ^lite of Montreal society. The regular hunting season commences in Septem- ber when the hounds meet on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays at 1 1 o'clock, until December. Only the wild fox is hunted by the club. Drags and bagmen have no place in its arrangements. The club is the oldest in America. The present chief huntsman has been for 2(i years in charge of the pack. The meets are attended by a brilliant assem- blage of well mounted ladies and gentlemen. The scarlet coats and trim appointments of the mem- bers on a field day, and the excitement of a burst 120 AMUSEMENTS. across the country make a ''meet" one of the sights of Montreal. Racket.— This game is carried on by a club of forty members. The Court is in St. George street, near Vitre street. Lawn Tennis is becoming very popular. There is one club of about 60 members (ladies and gentle- men) which meets in summer at the grounds of the Montreal Lacrosse Club every week day except Saturday at 3 P.M. In winter the meetings are at the Eacket Court. Racing.— A turf club, under the name of " The Province of Quebec Turf Club," has recently been organised at Montreal. At present it consists of 63 members, and has leased the race-course at Blue-bonnets for its meetings ; but the club hopes by next year to ha\e a better track and to erect suitable buildings. Upon days of meetings, the Grand Trunk Eailway trains stop at the foot of the hill near the course. Many of the members of the club are leading cit'" ns of Montreal, and they hope to improve the bre^a of horses in the country, as well as to amuse themselves, by carrying on this sport in a fair and honest way. At Lepine Park, below Hochelaga, is a course for trotting of a rougher sort. Gymnasium, on Mansfield street. This was built originally for a Gymnasium alone, but it was not AMUSEMENTS. 121 very successful. A few years ago the Mercantile Library Association, then in a moribund state, was incoi'poi'ated with the Gymnasium Association. Afterwards the Montreal Lacrosse Club, the Mont- real Snowshoe Club, and the Bicycle Club were suc- cessively absorbed into a larger body called the 'Montreal Amateur Athletic Association" which has its head-quai-ters in this building. It is an ex- celleut institution and very useful to young men. There is a good gymnasium, provided with a com- petent teacher, a bowling-alley, billard-tableii, a shooting-gallery, a library (the old one of the Mer- cantile Library), baths and a reading-room. There is no bar, nor any thing of the sort under a more euphonious name, so thai parents are quite satisfied to have their sons frequent the building. The Victoria Skating Rink.— Montreal possesses the largest and best skating rink in Europe or America. The Grand-Duke Alexis, who skated there during his visit to Canada, pronounced it better than anything of the kind in Russia. The club consists of over 2,000 members. The rink is a brick building with a roof of one semi-circular span 50 feet high at the centre. It is 260 feet long and 100 feet wide. A promenade extends around the ice, and in the front of the building are dressing and cloak rooms, and offices. Besides the music stand, there is a gallery for spectators, for here on a gala night may be seen the youth and beauty of both sexes. Fancy dress balls are held on the ice, : 122 AMUSEMENTS. and one of the most brilliant Bights wljieli the city affords is presented on such an occasion. The rink is brightly lit, a band plays in the orchestra, and the gay dresses and swift movements of the skaters combine to make a scene like a peep into fairyland. During the winter, rinks are improvised elsewhere, npon smooth places on the river or canal, and upon vacant lots throughout the city. Curling.— A very favourite amuseme/jt in winter among the middle-aged men of the city. The cli- mate of Montreal is favourable to the production of very excellent ice for this purpose, aikd the Scotch- men who settled here instituted their national game in Montreal as early as 180*7. In that year tha Montreal Curling Club was founded. The Marquis of Lome is Patron of tLiw club. The Eink is at No. 1450 St. Catherine street. Tne Thistle Club was founded in 1842. Its rink is in St. Monique street. The Caledonia Curling Club was founded in 1850, and its rink is. at the corner of St. Catherine and Mountain streets Tobogganing.— The toboggan is a long sled, with- out runners, which lies flat upon the snow. It is made of thin ash, and is usually 8 feet long by 18 inches wide, and curled up at the prow. Being- made to glide upon the surface of light snow, it was used in winter time and is still used by the Indians, for tra isporting their effects ; for a man upon snow-shoes dragging a toboggan can go across ifii AMTTSEMENT8. 125 country and take with him an astonishing quantity of stuff. Upon this primitive conveyance it is the delight of youthful Montrealers of both sexes to slide down hills. The lady sits in front and the gentleman sits or kneels behind and steers. The course is soon over, but the process of dragging the vehicle up-hill is enlivened by conversation, and is seldom tedious. There is one club devoted to this amusement. It rents a slide near the ''Priest's Farm." Another favourite sliding ground is on Fletcher's field. Bright moonlight nights are chosen for this recreation, and it is a very pretty sight to see the figures of the sliders against the white snow gliding swiftly down the hill or Bociably trudging up again, dragging their tobog- gans. Snow-shoeing.— A number of clubs are devoted to this amusement. They are distinguished by the colours of their blanket coats. Long tramps are organised during the season and a strong tura out of snow-shoers making a bee line across the country is a very pictui-esque sight. It is quite usual in Montreal for young ladies to walk on snow-'ihoes in company with friends , but they do not of course belong to clubs ; some of them can walk long dis- tances. When the former Governor-General (Lord Dufferin) was the guest of the city, a general turn- out of all the clubs was organised. About 2,000 men assembled in Sherbrooke street one fine win- ter night, and went, carrying torches, upon a tramp 124 AMUSEMENTS. over the mountain. The sight was one to be remembered, as the long procession of brilliant lights moved up the steep declivity and along the summit of the mountain. Chess.— There is one Chess club which meets at the Montreal Gymnasium in Mansfield street. The National Amateur Association. — This or- ganization consists of deputies from the different athletic cIujs for the purpose of organising matches and promoting out-door recreations. Militia.— Volunteering is a favourite occupation of the young men of the city. There are six regi- ments of infantry, one troop of cavalry, one com- pany of engineers, and one battery of horse artil- ler}' raised in the city. Theatres.—The history of the Drama in Montreal is a very chequered one. The clergy, both Catho- lic and Protestant, have at all times discounten- anced it, and the theatre-going class has also been limited by the difference of language. The first theatre was built i 1825 in St. Paul street. There are two at present, viz : The Academy of Music, on Victoria street, which is the best house in Montreal, and one where there is generally very good acting and singing. It was liere that Sara Bernhardt played when she visited Montreal. It is closed in tho summer. AMUSEMENTS. 125 Theatre Eoyal. in Cott^ Street.-This theatre is kept open in summer as well as in winter. It is a small house, but very good companies often per- form there. The Social and Dramatic CJub is a societ} of lady and gentlemen amateurs, which three or four times during the winter gives an enterta'nmont for some charitable object, usually at JSTordheimers Hall The acting is far better than amateur performances usually are. There is a French Dramatic Society also, which sometimes has entertainments at the Theatra Eoyal. The Queen's Hall is a handsome and commodious hall where concerts and lectures are frequently given. There is a fine organ in it, and on Sundays, it is used by the congregation of Zion church as a temporary place of worship. I;il EXCURSIONS. Montreal is situated within easy reach of many charming places, and to describe them all would be to write a guide- book for the Province. Around the city there are some very interesting drives. The Mount-Royal Cemetery. — A very beautiful, spot in the heart of the mountain, about two miles from the city, unsurpassed for the advantages of its situation, and adorned with many beautiful monuments. The Catholic Cemetery adjoins the preceding. It -contains many fine monuments, but the grounds are not so beautiful nor the site so advantageous as the former. The cemeteries can both be visited during the Drive around the Mountain, which is usually taken by tourists. The extensive grounds of the Board of Agricul- ture and the Exhibition building of the Board of Arts and Manufactures (see page 57) may be seen on this drive upon the right, not far from the entrance to the Protestant ceme- tery. The Grounds occupy a space of about 50 acres; a portion being in the Mount-Royal Park and connected by means of a substantial bridge with the Exhibition •Grounds proper. The stalls for cattle and horses surround the grounds and are constructed in such a manner as to •ensure the greatest comfort for the animals exhibited. Among the principal buildings on the grounds may be men- tioned the Crystal Palace, for the display of manufactured articles ; the Carriage Building ; the Root and Grain Build- ing ; the Manitoba Building, and the Machinery Hall pro- vided with a stationary engine and shafting, for the display of machinery in motion. The Agricultural Implement Building (for the display of .agricultural machinery in motion) is situated on the Park EXCURSIONS. 127 side ; it consists of four buildings with extensive connecting corridors, and is admirably adapted for the purpose intended. Taken altogether the buildings and grounds are remarkably well situated and conveniently arranged, and are inferior to but few, if any, on the continent. The Exhibitions for the past two or three years (since which time the buildings have been completed) have been remarkably successful and have attracted immense crowds. An Exhibition has now come to be regarded as an annual institution, the date fixed iH usually towards the end of September in each year. The road passes through the village of Cote-des-Neiges, and on the left upon the south west slope of the little moun- tain the Convent of Villa Maria (see page 107) is passed. Just at the turn of the road past the Convent is perhaps the most beautiful prospect around Montreal. Sault-au-RecoUet. — There is an interesting drive to what is called the «• back river," or the Riviere-des-Prairies at Sault-au-Recollet — a rapid so called after a RecoUet priest who was drowned here in early colonial days. The timber rafts for Quebec pass down this river, and here is situated the Convent of the Sacred Heart (see p. 107). Lachine. — A drive to this village, going out by the upper road and returning by the lower one, will amply repay a visitor. The scenery is beautiful, and all along the road the rapids (Sault St. Louis) are seen to great advantage. The aqueduct and wheel-house (see p. 45) can be visited en rou'e. The Lachine Rapids. — Tourists who have not come covering acres 132 TO QUEBEC BY STEAMER. I ! r r in extent, lighted up by fires, and navigated by men with bronzed faces and red shirts, whose forms, as they flit across the unearthly glare, remind one of Dante's great poem ; or perhaps he may meet some ocean steamer, her black bulk dimly discerned in the darkness, far astray in these fresh waters from her home on the blue Atlantic. The most inde- fatigable sight-seer would, however^ do well to retire to his state- lOom immediately after leaving Sorel, and rise the ear- lier in the morning. Three Rivers is the next stopping place. The traveller will surely know when he arrives by the unearthly din of the steam-whistle, and the stamping over deck and shouting which seems so utterly unnecessary to any one who does not intend to stop th( re, but is merely anxious for a little sleep. It is the third city of importance on the river, and was the second founded by the early colonists. The Kiver St. Mau- rice falls in here from the north, and, being divided at its mouth by two islands, the three channels give the town its name. The St. Maurice is one of the most important tribu- taries of the St. Lawrence; running a course of about 300 miles, and receiving many large tributaries before joining its waters with the St. Lawrence. It is a very important lum- bering sti earn because of the immense area it drains. At twenty-one miles distance from Three Rivers are the FaWs of Shawanegan. There are many falls and rapids on the lower St. Maurice, but none to compare in grandeur with Shawanegan. Here the river, suddenly bending and divided by a rocky island into two channels, falls nearjy 150 feet perpendicularly, and dashes violently against a wall of op- posing rock, where the united stream forces its way through a channel not more than thirty yards wide. There can be no more striking scene in its savage grandeur than this fall, and a visit will repay the enterprising tourist. Above the falls at Grand Piles a tug steamer runs aii far as La Tuque, an old fur-trading post. In the old French days, before Montreal TO OTTAWA BY RAILWAY. 133 was Ktrong enough to keep the Iroquois at a distance, Three Rivers was the most important post on the river for traders ; but it declined in importance as Montreal grew. There is a very large export of lumber from this point. The iron of the St. Maurice forges is made from the very large depo- sits ot bog iron ore found here ; they are not yet exhausted, although they have been worked for over 150 years. After leaving Three Rivers the steamer stops but once more before arriving at Quebec, and that is at Batiscan, a village near the mouth of a river of the same name ; then is passed, from the north, the River St. Anne. About twenty miles from St. Anne occur rapids and obstructions in the St. Lawrence, called the Richelieu Rapids. Large ships usually have to wait for high tide before passing here, as the rocks are dangerous. A few miles from these rapids the Jacques Cartier falls in, still from the north, for the St. Law- rence is a northern river, and draws its unfailing waters mostly from the north. From this '>oint the scenery loses its flatness, and the traveller will be repaid for an early morning start. The steamer swiftly passes village after village, and in the distance the mountains round Quebec can be seen, blue and dim, the sun rising behind them. On the right, as we near the city, is the mouth of the Chaudiere River, on the left is Cap Rouge, and a little farther on is Sillery, close under which is Wolfe's Cove, where the landing was effected in 1 1(59 vhich changed the destinies of Canada. Gliding on past the interminable maze of ships, and rafts, and booms, and deals, the steamer sweeps close under Cape Diamond, into the matchless basin shadowed by precipitous cliffs, from which Quebec, the Queen of the St. Lawrence, looks down in all her quaint beauty upon a scene unequalled in the new world. To Ottawa by Hallway. — The Pacific Railway has purchased the portion of the Q. M. 0. & 0. Railway between 134 TO OTTAWA BY RAILWAY. Montreal and Ottawa as the first link in the great system which will unite the St. Lawrence with the Pacific Ocean. Travellers starting from the western part of the city usually drive to the Mile-End Station. From the cab may be seen quarries and exposures of the Trenton limestone of which the city has been built. The first stop is at Sault-au-Recollet where the train crosses the Rivi^re- des-Prairies or Back River. The Convent of the Sacred Heart is on the right before passing the bridge. A fine view of the rapids may be had from both sides of the cars. The road now crosses Isle Jesus, a very fertile island 21 miles long and 6 miles wide. After passing St. Martin Station it arrives at St. Martin Junction. — Here the road to Quebec which will in future be called the North Shore Railway, diverges. The next station is Ste. Rose. — At this point the train crosses the no ^tiern- most mouth of the Ottawa river and passes on to the main land. A very beautiful view may be had from the cars up and down the river, which seems to have no special name, and is called the Riviere St. Jean, or Jesus, or Terrebonne river, and sometimes simply the Ottawa. The road now lies across a level uninteresting, plain underlaid by the Potsdam sand- stone and the Calciferous formation. At Ste. Therese, a road branches off for St. Jerome, another for St. Lin, and another for St. Eustache. A very large Roman Catholic College is placed here and may be seen from the train. The following stations are St. Augustin, St. Scholastique (which is the county town), St. Hermas and Iiachute, a lai-ge town upon the falls of Riviere du Nord containing a number of manufactories. It is the. county town of Argenteuil. The river skirts the Laurentian hills and the course of the train, after crossing it, lies between the Ottawa and the base of the range. The next station is St. i TO OTTAWA BY RAILWAY. 135 Phillippe ; then leaving all the saints behind the train strikes for the main Ottawa river which is reached at Grenville.— This is a very good point from which to examine the Laurentian country. The mountains abound in minerals such as mica, graphite and apatite, and the bands of crystalline limestone near here are favourite fields for obtain- ing specimens of the rarer minerals. At Grenville the Long Sault rapid commences which interrupts the navigation of the Ottawa ; and here is also the upper end of the Carillon and Grenville canal. At the foot of the rapid Dollard and his companions in the year IGGO saved Canada by the sacri- fice of their lives. See p. 21. " Eight days of varied horror passed ; what boots it now to tell How the pale tenants of the fort heroically fell ? Hunger, and thirst, and sleeplessness, Death's ghastly aids at length. Marred and defaced their comely forms, and quelled their giant strength. The end draws nigh — they yearn to die — one glorious rally more, For the dear sake of Ville-Mario and all will soon be o'er ; Sure of the martyrs golden Crown, they shrink not from tne Cross, Life yielded for the land they love, they scorn to reckon loss." Close to Carillon, at the foot of the canal, is this Thermo- pylaa of French Canada, and yet Dollard 's name is com- memorated in ViHe-Marie only by a contemptible little lane. After leaving Grenville the Calumet Station is passed, where refreshments are provided, and the train stops 10 minutes. Passengers for Caledonia Springs get out here. The Calumet river, a .iiall stream, is crossed next, and, a mile and a half farther on, the Biver Rouge, a turbulent stream down which a good deal of lumber is floated. The train arrives next at Montebello— the residence of the late Hon. Louis Joseph Papineau, the O'Connell of Canada, from whom the next sta- tion, Papineauville, derives its inharmonious name. The road runs through a rough and uninteresting country for the rest of the distance. To the scientific tourist, however, the f ll I li 1 II 13() TO LAKE MExMPnRE3L\aoa. grotind is classic, for it iH at C6te St. Pierre, in the Seigniory of Petite Nation, 20 miles from Montebello, where theEozoon Canadcnso is found in its least altered and most characteris- tic condition. At North Nation Mills the North Nation river, a lumbering stream, is crossed. Then follow the sta- tions of Thurso and Uockland — next follows Buckingham upon the Rivi6re aux Li6vrcs a singularly rapid and turbulent stream which rushes, rather than flows, through a good hunting country but a bad one for settling in. The river falls 70 feet in a very few a '^es, and consequently there are several large lumber establishments here. Buck- ingham is the centre of the apatite and the plumbago mining country. The next stations are L'Ango Gardien and Temple- ton, then the Gatineau river is crossed at the station of the same name. This is a very large and important lumbering river 300 miles in length, and a chief tributary of the Ottawa. The next station is Hull, opposite Ottawa. A fine view of the Parliament buildings can be had from the station. After leaving Hull the Ottawa river is crossed upon a bridge remarkable for its solid construction, for here the Ottawa flows in a wide and full stream just above the Falls of the Chaudi6re. From the train a view of the rapids may be had The river is 500 yards wide and the principal fall is 60 feet high. Tht tourist will find much to interest him in a visit to this fall. The next station is Ottawa, the Capital of the Dominion. Excursion to Iiake Memphremagog.— The South Eastern Ptailway is the Canadian name of that portion of the Montreal and Boston Air Line which extends from Montreal to Newport in Vermont. There it connects with the Pas- sumpsic Valley line, leading to Boston by a direct route through the very heart of the finest scenery of the White ii EXCURSION TO MEMPIIREMAGOa. 13t Mountains. Trains Iwave the Bona venture Station for Boston at 8.30 a.m. and 6.30 p.m. In running down to the river the Lachine Canal (p. 35) is crossed, and the tourist may ob- tain a good view of it from the cars. The train crosses the river St. Lawrence on the Victoria Bridge (see p. 41) and, at St. Lambert Station, the South Eastern track diverges. Four railways start from this point. The Central Vermont is on the right hand, for the South, via St. Johns and St. Albans ; the track of the South Eastern is the next. On the left are the main lines of the Grand Trunk for Portland, Quebec and Rouse's Point, and lact to the left is the railway to Sorel. Trains also leave for Huntingdon, but they diverge from the main line of the Grand Trunk Railway at a point a few miles further on. From the embankments on approaching or leaving the Bridge a view of the rapids of Sault St. Louis and the bay of Laprairie may bo seen on the right, and of St. Helen's Island and the city of Montreal on the left. After leaving St. Lambert the train strikes across the level country to the valley of the Richelieu which is reached at the Station of Chambly Basin. Here the Richelieu opens out into a wide and tranquil expanse after a turbulent and rapid course of 16 miles from St -^ohns, and into this basin the Chambly Canal debouches. An important trade with the United States is carried on by th* ■> canal. The Richelieu river was, before railway times, the chief route between Canada and the United States. It drains Lake Champlain and, by the canal from Whitehall at the head of the lake, the waters of the St. Lawrence are connected with the Hudson river. The Riche- lieu was called the Riviere aux Iroquois in French times, for down it used to come the canoes of the hostile Mohawks from their homes on the head waters of the Hudson. The Marquis de Tracy in 1665, seeing the importance of securing control of this river, ordered the erection of three forts. One, at the mouth ( f the river, was erected by M. de Soul, one at this point was erected by M. de Chambly, and the third — Fort St 138 EXCURSION TO MEMPHREMAGOO. :ii! iiii i;i Ther^se — a few miles further up, at the head of the portage, was erected by Colonel de Salieres the Colonel of the Car- ignan regiment in which the two former were captains. These forts were of wood, but in 1709 Captain Berthelot, Sieur de Beaucourt erected a stone fort at Chambly upon the site of Fort St. Louis, of which the luins can be seen upon the left as the train approaches the station. As the French power strengthened. Fort Chambly, or Fort St. Louis as it was then called, became lek' important, and the interest of the struggle with the English centres round Crown Point and Ticondercga ; but Chambly was always occupied by a strong French garrison. When Canada was ceded to the EngliJrh, a British garrison replaced the French troops, but the fort at St. John's was considered by far the most important on the river, and, when the revolutionary war broke out in 1775, it was the garrison at St. Johns which an'ested'for two months the advance of Montgomery into Canada. While he was thus delayed Majors Brown and Living- ston raised about 300 Canadians, and with these and 50 men of the Continental Army invested Chambly, which surrendered apparently without firing a shot. Certainly nobody was hurt on either side and the whole matter was settled in 48 hours. The garrison was commanded by Major Stopford and consisted of 83 men of the 7th Royal F usileers. Montgom^ery was running short of powder, and the capture of the military stores at Chambly contributed largely to the fall of St. John's. The prisoners were very useful as a means of securing con- sideration for Ethan Allen and his men who had been cap- tured a short time before in a quixotic attack on Montreal. The colours of the 7th Fusileers which were taken at the same time were the first trophies of the war. It was a strange garrison. There were in the fort 83 soldiers and 90 women and children. They were all sent into the revolted colonies. The commandant at St. John's permitted the batteaux to pass southward unmolested. "Their number of women and '■ill EXCURSION TO MEMPIIREMAOOG. 139 quantity of baggage " writes Montgomery " is astonishing." The whole affair is still a puzzle to the historian. The fort was a square enclosure with flanking towers unprotected by earthworks of any kind. Barracks and store houses were built round the court. The site was admirably chosen at the foot of the portage^ commanding effectually the whole breath of the river. During the succeeding period while English troops were stationed in Canada, Chambly was continuously occupied by a garrison. The fort was abandoned about the year 1838 and began to fall into decay. Large barracks and officers' quarters were built near it. The number of troops gradually decreased, but, until the evacuation of the country, detachments from Montreal used to go every summer to Chambly for target practice. After the British troops finally departed, the inhab- itants began to use the timber of the fort for fire-wood, until the river face fell down and the whole wall threatened to tumble in. TJien arose an indefetigable local antiquary, M. Dion who gave the Quebec Government n rest until the modest sum of $1000 was granted to keep the walls from fur* ther decay, and w ith this inadequate sum he is now engaged in rescuing this interesting relic of former days from utter ruin. Chambly owes also to M. Dion's enthusiasm a statue ia bronze of Col. De Salaberry, who won a victory over the Americans at Chateauguay in the war of 1812, while in com- mand of a detachment of Canadian Voltigeurs. The statue is of bronze, cast at Montreal by L. P. Hebert. It is not much above natural size, but it is a decidedly better work of art than the colossal statue of the Queen on Victoria Square in Montreal. There is a very pretty little English Church at Chambly. After leaving Chambly Basin the train next stops at Chambly Canton. Here are woollen and cotton mills and a paper mill. Several other factories cluster here on 140 EXCURSION TO MEMPHREMAGOG. W-i I n'-! WHi; the shore of the St. Louis rapids, for the water power is very extensive. From Chambly, upon the left, Montarville, Beloeil, and Rougcmont mountains are seen to groat advantage rising up out of the level and fertile country. The train now crosses the river, and, from the cars a good view of the rapids may be obtained. Then follows Marieville, which is the sta tion for Rougemont. On approaching St. Aug de, the next staUon, ^lonnoir or Mount Johnson is seen plainly on the right, and, on the left, the Yamaska Mountain emerges from the shadow of Rougcmont. The Shefford Mountain becomes clearly visible also on the lef, and, as the train proceeds, Brome and Sutton Mountains appear, after which the moun- tains around Lake Memphremagog are seen in a t ' ^tinuous chain also on the left. After St. Brigide the next station is West Farnham, an important manufacturing village upon the Yamaska river. A large cotton factory and a beet- root sugar factory are among the industries established here. The Vermont Central Railway intersects the South Eastern a,t this point. The Yamaska is a very tortuous river. It is seen intermittently upon the left, winding through the level plain. After passing through Farnden, Brigham and East Farnham the train stops at Cowansville, the county town. The neighbouring village of Sweetsburg is seen upon the rising ground. They are pretty places and at this point the scenery begins to lose its fiat character and gains rapidly in interest. The land is also very good for agricultural purposes. The river is the eouth branch of the Yamaska. After West Brome follows Sutton Junction, where the Railway from Sorel connects with the South Eastern. The Bolton Mountains round the lake are seen upon the left, the Pinnacle Mountain opens to the right. The train, after stopping at Sutton Flats and Abercorn, crosses the border and arrives at Richford in the State of Vermont, an important manufacturing town and one of the oldest in the State. The direct course of the road EXCURSION TO MEMPHREMAGOG. Ul is now barred by Jay's Peak the most northern spur of the Green Mountains, 4018 feet high. The train now follows along the valley of the Miswquoi River which it crosses, and, after stopping at East Richford, turns back into Canada, keeping the river on the left continuously visible bind- ing among the bottom meadows at the foot of the moun- tains. Glen Sutton and Mansonville the next stations are in Canada. Then the border is again crossed. North Troy by its name gives evidence of the classic culture in the United States which replaces the saintly tendencies of the Lower Canadians. The Misslquoi river is finally crossed and after passing Newport Centre, Lake Memphremagog opens out and Newport at the head of the lake is reached. Newport is a pleasant little town in the State of Ver- mont, important chiefly because it is the terminus of the Pas- sumpsic Railway and the point where travellers from Quebec and Montreal meet on the road to Boston. It is beautifully situated at the head of Lake Memphremagog, one of the most beautiful lakes in North America. The western shore of the lake is skirted by lofty mountains while the eastern shore slopes gradually down to the water. Upon the eastern shore are many beautiful villas and productive farms, while the opposite side retains all its primitive wildness. There is a continual contrast between these opposing styles of landscape beruty which adds variety to the scenery of the lake, for the eye wanders with pleasure from the quiet and fertile slopes, adorned with villas and laid out by art, to the rugged gran- deur of Orford Mountain, the Owl's Head and Mount Eleph- antis which, as the sun declines, cast their sombre shadows far over the bright sheet of water. The outlet of the lake is the Magog river which falls into the St. Francis at Sherbrooke. ft is a turbulant stream and, as it has a considerable fall in i short distance, it does much work for manufacturers before it is allowed to join the placid St. Francis. On Mondays the Steamer Lady of the Lake leaves Newport at 8 a.m. and goes k. II ji ■! Ilili 142 EXCURSION TO MEMPHREMAGOG. to the town of Magog at the outlet, a distance of 30 miles, re- turning at 4.30. On other days the steamer goes only as far as Georgeville, but makes two trips, one at 8.30 a. m. and a second at 1.30 p.m. The prettiest scenery is on the lower part of the lake, so the tourist will not miss much by turning back at Georgeville. jf'l The most remarkable peak in the chain of mountains on the western shore is the Owl's head. It rises from the very water's edge to a height of 2,743 feet. Snugly esconced at its base is the Mountain House, a capital hotel, which has recently been refitted throughout. Those who are fond of climbing can sily make the ascent of the mountain by a foot-path to its very summit. On a clear day the view is marvellously extensive. Lake Memphremagog in its whole extent — with every island and creek — is manifest at the foot of the mountain. Far off the St. Francis can be seen in its whole course to the St. Lawrence and even the white towers of Notre-Dame de Montreal can be discerned On the east is lake Massawippi — on the west is lake Champlain with the Adirondacks behind it. On the south are the White Moun- tains and the Green Mountains. The vallies of the Yamaska and the Richelieu — a level plain with isolated peaks lie spread out as on a map. It is a panorama worthy to reward the tourist for a two hours climb, because, owing to the com- paratively isolated position of the mountain, there is no in- tervening summit to obstruct the view. Let the enter- pvising traveller ascend, provided with a field glass and a good map and he will not regret his labour, if only the weather be clear. A little further down the lake is Mount Elephantis and jl on the opposite shore is Bay View Park a great resort for '' picnics. Then follow a number of handsome villas and fine farms. Halfway down the lake is Georgeville — a village with a good hotel and a pleasant summer resort. Opposite on the west side is Knowlton's Landing. Here the stage for Kuowltonj t , 1 i 'iiiil EXCURSION TO MEMPHaEMAGOQ. 143 can be taken traversing the Bolton pass through mountain scenery of Alpine wildness and beauty. At last Magog ig reached at the extreme northern end of the lake. The Ver- mont Central Railway has a branch line fron St. John's to this point which will shortly be extended to meet the Grand Trunk Railway at Sherbrooke. From Magog the steamer re- turns to Newport where the tourist may resume his journey to New York, Boston, Montreal or Quebec. 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