%^4 So^. *,^> ^.% IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) / /. // &?- y 5^ /^, 1.0 I.I 1.25 'riia |M 2.2 1^ Itf III 2.0 U III 1.6 V. <^ //, ^h e. CA. o1k -'N /A (jf *5 '•^ '/ Photographic Sciences Corporation ^^ iV '# ^\^ \ \ .^ A" 6^ <<^ V " oi- Alaska ' Reproduced from photograph by perniissioii of II. c - Reproduced from photograph by perniissioii of Arth ' l!y perniissioii of Miner Driice. vw.v. ■ 44;^ • 445 • 447 • 449 451 453 INTAIN ' 455 45'S 459 461 463 46S 4:'j 473 />/ pocket Ilarlev. ir D. Spiess TWO WOMEN IN THE KLONDIKE r 'I .1. I iSSiiBS TWO WOMEN IN THE KLONDIKE CHAPTER I HO rOR THE LAND OK GOLD.' OUR luagnificent Great Danes, Queen and Ivan, met us near the wharf, which was crowded with such a mass of people that it was no easy task for our coachman to guide his horses to the gangplank of the steamer which was about to make her maiden trip to St. Michaels. Although it was still early, her decks were thronged. We slowly worked our way to our cabins, where we found that our maid, who had preceded us, had carefully arranged such articles as she thought necessary for so adventurous a journey. We were sorry to leave her behind us, but the responsibility of taking a young and pretty girl into such regions as we had plaimed to explore would have been too great. In San Francisco our outfitting kept us in one mad rush, so that, during the last week, our rule was twenty hours for work and four for sleep ; but the work had been so interest- ing, the various projects so exciting, that the four hours were passed in planning, rather than sleeping, as our brains continued to act, and would not be stilled. At half-past five writing and making up accounts began ; then we hurriedly took a cup of coffee while dressing ; rushed to reach the shops as soon as opened, had no time for luncheon, and the stores I Two Women in the Klondike were closing before we were aware that it was t'lne ; then dinner, with only half an hour to spare for it, ai d a hasty comparison of notes before starting to listen to "reords " for our graphophone, and music for our " criterion "to learn to prepare the beautiful acetylene light with which we in- tended to illuminate our tent. We were taking extreme pleasure also in outfitting a protdge, whose stories of life in Dawson, and whoae many schemes for making a fortune had greatly interested us. Preparations for the trij> were often retarded by dear, kind friends who wrote : " Cannot under- stand your silence " ; or, " This is my fourth letter. i)Ut not a line have you deigned in reply " ; or, " It is hard to believe that j'ou have so changed and have no longer a thought for me." The last night was spent in reassuring those who could not understand. Thanks be to the Lord ! It is all over now and we have before us at least a fortnight of blissful repose — even sea- sickness will have no terrors. We are just passing out of the beautiful Golden Gate. As we were leaving the dock, Mr. W appeared with his machine for taking moving pictures, shouted a request for us to stand in the bow of the steamer and wave our handkerchiefs. From his smile of satisfactioti we judged that the resemljlance would be striking and that we should soon be oi h'idnicc at some of the vaudeville shows, where " The Departure of the St. Paul for the Klon- dike " might ])e ainiounced in loud tones. Such is fame ! This longing of ours to see one of the few countries lui- known to us had created such astonishment among our friends and acquaintances that we were considered quite mad — fit subjects for an insane asylum. The remarks we heard on all sides were also far from flattering or con- soling. At each stage of our journey from New York to San Francisco, reporters by the dozen came to interview us. Such questions as the.se were asked us : "Do you mean to say that you really intend to give up all the luxu- ries and comforts of home life to camp out and endure such privations and hardships as we read of ? Have you ever climbed mountains ? Tramped through swamps ? Stumbled Ho for the Land of Gokl I 3 over rocky precipices ? I^ivcd atnonj? roup;h miners ? Do ^ive it Tip — you have tio idea of all the perils that are in store for you." In Colorado Springs we were charmingly entertained, hut not one of our friends there !)elieved tiiat we really would carry out our plans. In Denver a party of us went to visit a famous mine in Georgetown ; we were shown every atten- tion and courtesy, and deep interest was expressed in the success of our plans. " She ought n't to have any future," growled an old miner standing near ; " any lady wot leaves a fine home an' fine friends and luxuries to take up with hardships wot 's hard enough for strong men to bear ought to be locked up in an insane asylum." The others did not hear. I smiled and thought of the friend who wrote me : " vSo you are actually going to Dawson and nothing we can .say or write will prevent it. Well, wil- ful woman nuist have her way ; so I hope you won't regret it." All the.se thoughts arose in my mind as E and I stood on the deck of the steamer, not watching the disappear- ing land, but looking eagerly, hopefully forward to that which was to come. It had not been our intention to sail on an Alaska Cotn- mercial Company's steamer, as a friend had .so highly recom- mended those of the limpire Line that we engaged passage on the Ohio at once, never having .seen her. We were, there- fore, filled with annoyance upon receiving a notification that the owners could not keep to the contract made with us, as the Government had chartered the steamer; but when we found that it was to be sent with reinforcements to our hero Dewey, we readily accepted the situation and made our plans to go by the Indiana, belonging to the same company. Again the Govennnent stepped in, and we were obliged to look about for other means of transportation. Upon inquiry, we found that the reputation of the Alaska Conunercial Company was .so high, their ships so well matnied, and their contracts so carefully carried out, that we went to the office to ascertain how soon one of their steamers would l)e leaving for the desired land. We were informed that the St. Paul 3 4 Two Women in the Klondike had just been finished ; was fitted with all modern con- veniences ; that a reception on board was to be given that very evening, and were nrged not only to attend but to bring our friends. We did so, were received by one of the courteous owners most charmingly, treated with distin- guished consideration, and told to select whichever cabins we pleased, as, although all were etigaged, the passengers, being composed mostly of men, would " willingly change in favour of ladies." We were next taken to the dining-room for a champagne supper; after ta.sting the chef's bouillon and one or two other di.shes, we immediately decided that the watits of the inner man would be well cared for and booked our pas.sage at once, .so charmed were we with the equipments and many advantages of the .SV. Paul, to say nothing of the extreme courtesy of her officers. And now begins a most truthful account of incidents just as they happened, copied from the journal of daily events, in order to show women who feel inclined to make the trip exactly what they may expect. M CIIAPTKR II "with mamck Towards nonk " Stkami:r " St. rAii.," Thursday, June i6tli. WAKENED early. Opened the blind, and was sitting lip in bed rapidly jotting down a dream-inspired article, when the cnrtains parted, the head of a man api)earcd, and a big, hearty voice called out : " IluUoa ! how are you this morning ? Why don't you yet up? I 'm up ! Have a piece of orange ? I 've been seasick for four days. This is my first day out of my cabin. Have been awfully gener- ous. Gave the captain the ocean, and the purser all the land we 've left behintl. Did n't think I .should ever want either of them again ; but, say — why don'/ you get up ? " " Be- cause it is so much more comfortable resting here than walk- ing on a wet deck, and .so much ea.sier to write." " Writing — do you have to write ? What yer writing about ? Write a letter to me ; I 'm your next-door neighbour. Suppose you don't mind my looking in your room and trying to jolly you up ? " "As for the ' looking in,' one grows accustomed to that on this ship where the cabins open on the promenade deck and kind neighbours feel it a duty to cheer up those who are supposed to be ill, and Miss V and I intend to ' rough it,' and to live and do just as the people of the coun- try do." " That 's right, and we '11 look after you well. I never expected to go l)ack, but have half a dozen claims at Rampart City, and my partner 's just written for me to come as they 're turnijig out fine. You don't want to buy any claims, I suppose ? You ought to get off at Rampart — nmch better than Daw.son. House lots selling there for a thousand J Two Women in the Klondike dollars apiece. Excuse me a minute." . . . Later — same voice : " <" le o' your dogs is loose What yer going to do with them when you get to the first landing-place ? I '11 help you look out for 'em and get 'em ashore, while you carry your revolver, as the other dogs will all pounce on 'em and it won't be a fair fight — twenty against two. What ! you don't know how to use a revolver ? That don't matter. Just fire in the air, and the dogs '11 run. Why, women shoot better than men, anyhow. I did n't know my wife could shoot until I offered her a pair of gloves for each time she hit the bull's-eye. She did it twice before I was sure it was not an accident, and then I cried quits. So-long ; I '11 come and jolly you again by and by." Second face at the window: "Good-morning; how are you feeling?" "Good-morning, Mr. Purser." "Well, are you going to get up to-da}' ? It 's perfectly fine out. Anything I can do for you ? Just call on me in case you want anything." Third face appears : " I 've got, some very bad news for you, Madam." " Not the dogs ? " I cried in alarm. " No, Madam." " Nor the parrot ? " " No, Madam, but one of the canaries is dead. I did all I could for him, and left him two hours ago bright and lively, but returned to find the other mourning his mate, who was lying cold in the bottom of the cage. I 'm very sorry, but as the two dozen pigeons are in perfect health, you must see that I have given great attention to j'our birds and animals." Face number one again : " Say ! I 've thought of a >-plendid scheme for 5-ou. There 's plenty of old canvas on board. Why don't you hire one of the sailors to sew a tent for your dogs out of it ? On the quiet, of course. You can do any- thing on the quiet. I '11 get one for you. Here, Bo's'n, this lady wants a tent for her dogs. Look in this window an' you fix it with her, an' she '11 fix it with you afterwards — that 's all right. Say ! what was your friend [E ] kicking about this morning ? She looked thundering black at me while she was talking in your window to you. Oh ! she did n't like our talking outside her door ! Wanted to I "With Malice towards None" 7 sleep later ! Well, why the deuce did n't she say so ? You can bet your lift; we would n't 'a' done it if she 'd 'a' said slie did n't like it. Well ! so-long ! I '11 come back and jollj' you some more if you don't get out soon. I 'm feeling fine! Your mandolin disturb me last evening ? No! bless your soul ! if I 'd known you had a mandolin I 'd 'a' been in. Next time you play it you can count on me as a sure enough vi-sitor." June 17th. I am not enjoying much of the rest to which I so longingly looked forward. Letters home must be written, and my pen is also kept busy in trying to depict in my journal the many novel characters on board, and to write of the warm het^rts which show so plainlj- beneath the rough exterior. I hur- ried through dinner and went to my cabin for a quiet hour's practice of zither and mandolin. With closed door and spirit far away in the realms of music, I was brought back by hear- ing : " Ain't that the sweetest music you ever listened to ? " " Egnd! I could stop here forever if she 'd never stop play- ing." " I say, Mi.ssus, do j-ou mind letting us open your cabin door, for we ain't heard no such music as that never ; you won't be too cold, will you ? " and the door was slowl\' opened even as the appeal was made. Those who had here- tofore been able to promenade in single file before the cabins waited, as the pa.ssageway was blocked. " No use trying to pass here, old man," someone cried, as a short fellow with a gray i)eard partially covering a soiled white shirt-front wrig- gk'd, finally, to a position from which he could obtain a sight of the instrument, and was chaflFed unmercifully. " You '11 get there, Colonel." " Push ahead, ole man." " Get in der front, now, Nanny-Goat." " What 's she playin' ?" " Why, a zither," and the informant, bolder than the others, worked his way inside of the tiny cabin and seated himself on the wash-.stand. Atiother dropped into the corner of the sofa, while still another seated himself on the door-sill. The old man stood before me, listening intently, with beaming fyes and a smile which never disappeared until the tears T 8 Two Women in the Klondike rolled down his face as I concluded with the touching^ strains of IIonu\ Sweet Home. " Wh}-, that 's as fine as nr fiddle," said he. " Do you play the fiddle?" I asked, rising (in order to disperse the crowd) and returning the zither to its case. His eyes sparkled as he eagerly replied, " Yes ; you want to hear it ? Somebody borrowed it, but I '11 find it " ; and, as he hastil; disappeared, one of the passengers called out : " O\\y\ou don't want to hear him ! You '11 ask him for an opera, an' he '11 play Yankee Doodle. You ask for some- COLONEL B- AND HIS FIDDLE. thing sad — same old thing again ; ask for something hvely — same old thing — always just the one tune." Shouts of " A whale ! a whale ! " sent the entire party for'ard, and music and the old man were forgotten as we watched the sport of several monsters of the deep. June iStb. " Thought you' d like a flower," a voice shouted early this morning, as the curtains were pushed aside and a rose fell on my bed, stopping my hurr>'ing pencil. " Bet you don't know where I got it from, but I was sure you 'd appre- ciate it. Still writing ? I say ! you work hard, don't you ? "With Malice towards None" Why don't you come out and enjoy yourself like the rest of the people ? " and the man who had offered to look out for the dogs at the first landing-place disappeared, as E entered to give me the morning news. " Do you know who your friend is, the one who gave you the rose ? ' ' she laughed ; " his name is J , and he keeps a saloon in San Francisco." " Saloon or no saloon," replied I, " he is much more polite and considerate than your friend, who, representative of an enormously wealthy syndicate though he be, bows to a lady without seeming to remember that he has a hat to touch." " Oh, he 's absent-minded," said E ; "I 've already spoken to him about it, though. He and the Judge are wild to know why we are taking such an enormous tent to Daw- son. Thej'^ have spent the entire week in trying to discover for what purpo.se it is intended, and say that it is the first time that they have ever found a woman who could keep a secret ; so they are waiting to see if they can't prevail upon you to divulge the great mystery." " Let them continue to guess," said I ; " their questions may give us some sugges- tions of value." Upon leaving the dinner-table early in order to indulge in music before all the world and his wife should start upon the evening promenade, a refined-looking yoiuig man, with deli- cately cut features, approached, saying : " It 's verj- dull on board, and I enjoy your music .so much that I thought by coming early you might allow me to listen, and may I bring my mandolin and try some duets with you ? " The request was willingly granted, but only for a short time were we per- mitted to indulge uninterruptedly in practice. The crowd soon discovered us ; the gangway was blocked, while those on the outside suggested that we could give nuich pleasure by moving into larger quarters — Social Hall, for instance ; but the performers being modest and of retiring natures, the concert came to an end after some of the listeners had man- aged not only to gain entrance to the cabin, but to ask if I minded smoking. Accustomed to the odour of a good cigar, I made no objection, but oh ! the pipes and vile tobacco ! I had not counted upon them, so laughingly told my unex- lO Two Women in the Klondike pticted guests that the canary was objecting seriouslj-, put aside the music, and we all went out into the delicious pure air. Had a delightful chat with two modest Italian priests. The}' had expected to be sent to Dawson, and had made all their plans to that effect, but orders had been changed and they were going to an unknown region. No conunent did they make — no unkind criticism at this unexpected news : they were in the Master's service, their only thought to do good and to lead souls luito Him. Maj' they reap a rich reward. A steward approached, saying, " Madam, would you mind lending your mandolin for a little while ? " As mj- mandolin is a Vinaccia, and one especially .selected for me by nij' Nea- politan teacher (who, by the waj-, is instructor to her Majesty, the beautiful and well-beloved Queen of Italy), I felt some reluctance, but a.sked him to see that it was treated with the greatest care. " Oh, that '11 be all right, Madam," was the response ; " I 'm going to play it my.self." We adjourned to the stern of the steamer, where we found about fifty of the pa.ssengers gathered — they standing, the waiters all seated ; but those who had appreciated my nuisic rushed to find a chair for me, saying : " You kin bet your bottom dollar we 're a-goin' to look out for you." There were two mando- lins, two guitars, and a banjo, but the centre of the group was the old fiddler. Colonel B , who.se eyes .sparkled and whose expression was one of the keene.st delight at having so large an audience. We li.stened to sweet, pathetic .songs, then came a jig from the Colonel's fiddle, and this was fol- lowed by several .solos to the accompaniment of the guitar and banjo. Fa.ster and faster played the old man, his excite- ment so great that he stopped to remove his hat ; he rose, from side to side he swayed, holding the audience spell- bound ; the banjoi.st dropped his banjo, the notes of the guitar were .stilled ; finally a burst of applause rang on the air as the Colonel dropped into his seat, saying, " I knowed I could play 'em all down." Our evening entertainment on the Sf. Pa i(/ ended with .l/y Country, '/ is of Thee, after which a collection was taken for the stewards who had so well helped With Malice towards None 1 1 us to pass an hour, the generous captain heading the contri- bution. As I was being escorted to the cabin by half a dozen musical acquaintances, my attention was attracted by something to me quite novel : it looked like a search-light coming from the bottom of the ship. On questioning, I was told that in.stead of irritating the nerves of passengers by the old-fashioned method of hoisting and throwing overboard cinders or ashes, they were washed out in a stream of water. That explained the unusual qniet, so different from the noise endured on my last long voyage. i n I KNOWED I COULD PLAY 'EM ALL DOWN. CHAPTKR III LAND IN SIGHT ! Juue igtb. A COLD, clamp, dark day. and, what with wet decks out- /~\ side, vSocial Hall crowded with its usual complement of passengers, some playing cards, some reading, others in a reclining position, thus occupying space intended for three, I felt not inclined towards its stuffy, hermetically sealed quarters, so concluded that the inducement to rise was not sufficiently great, and that reading and writing could be done to much greater advantage in the privacy of my own comfortable cabin amidst the luxury of an abundance of cushions. Air, pure and invigorating, could be obtained through the open window even with drawn curtains. How- ever, interruptions came often from the well-meaning pas- sengers who ventured on deck, and stopped to inqufre for my health, as they could not understand any one who failed to care for " three full meals a day." When the Captain made his regular inspection, my hand was aching from hours of steady writing. " Hulloa," said he, " in bed, still ? I guess you must be lazy. Want anything ? Just let me know if you don't get all you want." Towards evening there was a great commotion on board. A head appeared at the window and a voice said : " Pardon me, but land 's in sight, and we shall reach Unalaska before midnight." What a delightful announcement! Scarcely had the head disappeared ere I was dressing rapidly and .soon joined the excited passengers. "Hulloa," was the greeting on all sides, "so the sight ot land lias ac- compli.shed what no one on board could manage and has 12 I UA.. k/Ji-.*' y^x^- % t < z 3 \ Ks'^i/i. v-^r^mmywrn^i ; ■ . H Two Women in the Klondike brought vou among us once more ! " Oh ! the grandeur of the scene before us ! A long chain of mountains on either side. Snow everywhere, and above the snow the most beau- tiful blue clouds, not with silver lining, but golden. As we approached the entrance, three islands lying on the left seemed to be surrounded by fishing-boats, and we gazed eagerly ; but, upon drawing near, they proved to be only rocks. Sea-birds flew before the S/. Paul as though care- fully guiding the good ship on her first voyage ; smaller birds flitted to and fro across the bow, while sea-fowl skinuned the water in search of prey. The icy wind was so penetrating that my companions soon .sought the warmth of Social Hall, but the inspiring scene chained me to the deck, and my soul was filled with gratitude towards Him who in His infinite mercy had brought us safely across the ocean. " We shall not make it to-night," I heard at length, so reluctantly sought my cabin. Some natives who were re- turning to their Alaskan homes came out from Social Hall. " Oh the Priest, the Priest, we have passed the Priest," they cried, pointing to an enormous rock. " We shall soon be there." Shortly after, we were at anchor, and all was quiet. June 2oth. At seven a.m. I sprang from the bunk, threw back the shutter, and started with surprise and admiration. It was as though our grand Palisades of the Hudson were looking down upon us. Not, however, until one gazed upon the mountain-tops, covered everywhere with snow, could one reali.se to what a different clime the good ship had brought us. As she swung at her moorings, my first view was of a range of low hills covered with beautiful green grass, a few tents scattered here and there, a partially built river steamer on the ways, a large, two-storied, brick building with high- windowed roof, and in the water before it something that looked like the covered house-boat of Japan. Beyond the row of tents stood a wide, two-storied brick building with five windows, in front of which rode at anchor one of the Alaska Commercial Company's steamers. Then came a Land in Sight ! '5 range of low buildings, a white edifice with two cupolas or spires, and that was all that could be seen from my cabin window. The whistle of a tugboat next attracts attention, as she conies alongside with a lighter. Two sturdy sailors are rowing three men to the S/. Paul. A sailboat also is approaching, its several occupants taking as much apparent interest in us as our passengers are showing in them. Rvcnine;. — Such an exciting day on shore ! A large party of us pushed off in the steam launch, and after all were com- fortably placed I took a seat in the doorway to be sheltered and also to enjoy the beautiful view. A young woman, find- ing it too cold outside, asked if there were room for one more in the cabin. I willingly moved aside to allow her to enter, instead of which she coolly took my place and allowed me to remain .standing. We passed a rock completely covered with gulls, which reminded me, I scarcely know why, of a certain rock in China which was pointed out to me as the one on which superfluous girl babies were placed to be dis- posed of by the birds of the air. On reaching the wharf, great was our dismay at finding it towering high aijove our heads, necessitating a perpendicular climb on slats which shook under the feet of lighter weights than ours. As we were thinking sadly of turning back, E had a happj' in- spiration, A rowboat was near, and its occupant hailed. He quickly came to our rescue. We had but to transfer ourselves to his boat, and presto I we were landed safely on the beach. Several women who had followed our lead dashed on with never so much as a " thank you " to our assistant. We stopped to offer him remuneration but he assured us so cordially of his pleasure in having been able to oblige us, that we thanked him profusely and de- cided that we were going to like Alaskans. At the verj' end of the town we came to a collection of tents. At the entrance was a sign which read, " Laundry by the Lake." W^e inquired if we might enter and inspect the " Laundry," and the request was readily granted. After peeping fir.st into one tent and then another E at last said to the good-looking young woman in charge : " But where is i6 Two Women in the Klondike the lauiulry ? " " Here," said she, pointing to the tub in which licr arm was innnersed. " Are you getting rich ? " " Oh, no I Madam ; I did not come for that. The laundrj' is only to keep me from feeHng lonely while the men are away, as the days would otherwise be too long." " May I take a picture of your laundry ? " said I. " With jileasure. Madam: but may I have the time to put on my red shawl and my cap?" "By all means, and call some of your EXTINCT VOLCANO IN UNALASKA. friends to join in the group." A shout brought a number of men, who entered into the .spirit of the thing and posed to make an interesting picture. One threw a bag over his shoulder, another caught up a grip-sack, a third pretended to prepare a mess of porridge in a pail ; while a fourth looked hesitatingly as though to inquire whether he were reallj' wanted. " Come along," cried E , " we are waiting for Land in Sight ! i 7 you ; the picture would never do without so hatidsome a fellow," and the others lauj^hed at his enil)arrassnient and ])leasure. The laundress, who had been searching unsuccess- fully for her cap, was obliged to pose without it. After a short chat we asked for an address to which we might send one of the photographs. " Oh, we 're only tenting here," they replied; " we '11 meet you in Daw.son, and get it then." One of the men explained that they had bought their tickets to Daw.son, with the distinct under.standing that the com- pany had river boats waiting for them, .so that they .should l)e carried .safely and speedily up the Yukon, without delay; THE CEMETERY. tipon reaching Unala.ska, however, they were landed on the beach to make their way as be.st they could to their destina- tion, and many others had suffered a similar fate. This goes to prove that it is far wiser to travel by a first-class line, even though the cost of transportation be greater. Our next visit was to the cemetery, which we reached after climbing a .short hill. Many mounds were unmarked ; others had a wooden cross, but no name. There was one with a marble .slab and the inscription, " Sheltered at last," and three with pretentious iron railings which looked incon- gruous. As we wandered back towards the little town, we i8 Two WoiiiL'ii in the Klondike stopped to gather many beautiful wild-flowers atid violets, that seemed so out of place under the snow-capped jjcaks. I stopped at the "Jesse Lee Home," to make intiuiries in regard to this mission, feeling that the information would be grateful to those who could hear but seldom. On sending in my card I was ushered into a sitting-room, and while waiting I was pleasantly entertained by an interesting young couple who had been boarding at the " Home " for a fort- night. They were waiting for the Yukon to be iree from ice that they might continue their journey, and were enjoying their stay immen.sely. " There is always .something going on," said they. " The officers of the Hear have entertained us extensivel)', and many little festivities have been given in our honour." One of the teachers then entered, and, telling me that she was in the midst of great preparations for an exhibition to be given in the evening, asked if I would accompany her to the " Village store and Post-office," thus allowing her to kill two birds with one stone, and talk to me while at the same time accomplishing her errands. She spoke of her love for the work of helping and educating In- dian girls, but said, that the innnorality in the village was so great that it was often most discouraging, for instead of having the assistance of the mothers, they seemed rather to encourage their daughters to intimacy with the white men. She also .stated, that the Ru.ssian priest, disapproving of their sectarian teachings, tried to undermine their influence, and to wrest from them their charges. Here we reached the Post-office, and our ways parted. I was cordially invited to the evening entertainment, also to pay another visit on the morrow. I left, sad and pensive, to think that here among those dedicated to the .service of the Lord, instead of love and brotherly aid, there should be dissension, .strife, and bitter- ne.ss ! Why, if both were equally earnest, could they not work in unison ? " Seattle P. I. " \_Post Intclliffcuecr'] was called by a news- vendor, and I made my first purchase of an ordinary daily journal of Jinie 13th which had the mark " five-cents," in the corner. It was sold to me for twenty-five. " You will soon Land in Sii;ht ! 19 amass a fortune at that rate." " Oli, no ! I have been Rettinji; one dollar for thcni ; these are cheap," the man rei)liecr's VVetkly, and, to my great de- light, a two-gallon demijohn of delicious sparkling water. Mr. O caught sight of the demijohn through the open door, and shouced, " Hulloa ! where did you get that whiskey? Looks good! Sampled it yet?" — "No, but you may." An eager hand was outstretched for the demi- john, and the crowd that had gathered at O 's loud tones laughed with delight at the surprised air of the victim when he reali.sed his mistake. After luncheon we had visits from Lieutenants C and A of the IV/ied/uQ-. Cap- tain S also came i.o bid us good-liye, as the Wheelitii^ was to sail on the morrow, and we wondered in what part of the world we shoidd meet next. We were much interested in a Mrs. C , from Dawson, who modestly showed us the nuggets from her several bags. They were of all sizes and she had panned them herself, or taken them " from the dump " she said. One alone was worth two hundred and fifty dollars. VVc Meet Old I-ricnds 47 Diimer is ovc-r, and wo arc still on hoard, although the har^e worknic-ii arc- allowed scarcely a moment for sleep I hose waiting f<,r our rooms are very patient and nncom- I'hiiinnjr, which is rather unusual in so large a party as they had lully anticipated heing given our comfortal.le lieds to-iuKht. The harbour is crowded ; several barges have been lost while being towed from Unalaska here, and if the owners of the S/. Paul were inclined to be grasping they could send us up the river three in a cabin ; but we have been treated most handsomely, as though to atone for the keiMi disappointment which this unexpected delav is causing us, and the .SV. Paul is seemingly kq.t here for our comfort although long overdue in San Francisco. Ill ai CHAPTER VII w 111 f ii 4 TRANSFERRED AT LAST Tuesday, July 5th. STILL on board, waiting to be transferred. A man-of- war's boat has just left the side, having brought us a few extra luxuries for our voyage, and letters wishing us a successful expedition, and we are once more indebted to the kind officers of the W/icc/ifiQ-. We watch the boat as she skims over the water carrj-ing our note of thanks, watch the sailors as they haul her up; all is ready, and the ir/nr/injr steams slowly out of harl^our while we wave a last adieu. I had almost forgotten a little incident in connection with her when she first came into port. Many of our passengers were desirous of visiting her, but were ignorant of the ways and means. One of them approached E , saying, " May I have the pleasure o' takin' you on board that there American nian- o'-war?" "Thank you, no," said E politely. Mr. Boastful drew himself up, and in loud tones said, " Well, you 'd much better go with me than any o' the other fel- lows on board o' this 'ere ship, coz I bet you they don't know a liviu' soul on board the W'/wc/hiq; , an' as for me, why the bos'n 's a pertikler friend o' mine — known him all my life — an' you 're niakin' a big mistake if you think yer kin git anyone else to show yer round half as well." At II A.M., not having received any orders, we decided to go on shore for the mail. Scarcely liafl we boarded the tug, when the gong was sounded and we heard the shout, " Passengers from the Sf. Paul return and take over their luggage to barge." As we rejoiced loudly that the sum- 48 tur oiil W tha ace her off twt Transferred at Last 49 1 i^ iiions had come at last, a returned Dawsonite exclaimed, " You would n't be so happy if you could realise where you are going." We had some difficulty in getting our pets off. The dogs were crowded into the iMlot-house, leaving room only for the man at the wheel ; the parrot was scolding at being dis- THE WHEELING. turbed ; the pigeons were frightened and fighting each other ; only the canary was contented and continued to sing merrily. We had heard such exaggerated .stories about the river l)oats that we were pleasantly surprised at the reality, but preferred acconunodations on the barge, as the cabins had but two berths, while tho.se on the .steamer Lia/i had three — one ju.st off the floor, one very near the ceiling, and one between the two. Neither IC- .•een nor I felt ec^ual to the gymnastic per- I '■■ MA ill! .1, .1- i' 50 Two Women in the Klondike formance required to " turn in " and " out " and were de- cidedly averse to sleeping where we could not sit up without bumping our heads and bending our backs double. The cabins on the barge, although very primitive and constructed in the cheapest possible fashion, were new and clean, with comfortable mattressL-s ; the beds, table linen, and blankets were also all new, and the basins, carafes, and toilet articles of enamelled agate. We could nowhere see prospective dis- comforts such as we had read of, so started out determined to enjoy all that was pleasant, and to close our eyes to any- thing which must be endured because it could not be cured. A table of pine ran through the centre of the barge, i)ut as the galley was not quite complete, all barge passengers were to have their meals on the steamer Leah, which was to take lis in tow. Her dining-room was far too small for so large a number, consequently it was first come, first served, and the stools at the table made one feel as though at a lunch counter. There was a rush for rooms, but, as Mr. S had dis- tinctly told us that in case there should be a .sufficient \\\\\\\- ber of cabins E and I should each have one, we made no effort to " scramble " with the others, but went on shore to give the dogs their first run since leaving San Franci.sco. We had been many times warned that the native dogs would attack them in a body, .so we kept as near to headquarters and the miners as pos.sible, knowing that the latter would be ready to help us keep our beauties from a fight ; but we liad neither the attack from the native dog.s, nor the enjoyment of seeing Ivan and Queen da.shing in mad joy and rolling on the turf. They walked sedately by our sides as though they had never been weeks from .shore, while the enemy skulked in the rear, waiting for a chance to bite and run, and were so cowardly that they disappeared if we but raised our hands in a threatening manner. A very unexpected thing did happen though. The few cows of the place, that had never been known to seem aware of the existence of other dogs, immediately gave chase to ours, and in .such a determined manner that the men had to stand in front of us and pelt them with stones, shouting to us to seek cover. i Transferred at Last 51 After the danger was over, the cows followed down a side street, in a manner which we should not have believed pos- sible had we not been eye-witnesses, hiding behind the small houses to dodge the men and stones, but peeping around tlie corners as though to watch a chance to break through tlie ranks. The Collector of the Port took the greatest interest in Ivan. An old man stopped to ask many questions about his pedi- gree, saying that he had owned a descendant of one of Bis- marck's dogs. All whom we met were very talkative ; one poor fellow said he was coming " out " after a five years' stay in Dawson, thoroughly l)roken up with malaria. On our return to the barge, we were informed that there were at least two in each cabin, so that K and I made no com- plaint at being at last obliged to room together. " Tliere is some advantage in being unpopular, " said one of the pas- sengers; " everyone on board has absolutely refused to share X 's room ; consequently he is triumphantlj' telling that he is the only one lucky enough to have a cabin to himself, all unconscious of the reason for his solitude." About a year ago, while sojourning at Point-a-Pic, my imagination was greatly excited by articles about the founder of Dawson, with which the newspapers were filled. The more I read, and the more I heard of the Klondike, the more necessary it seemed tome to meet this wonderful man, if one would gain information as to where to prospect, where to stake claims, where to locate, and how to gain untold mill- ions. Dreams developed into plans, arrangements were made for the trip to the promised land, and J L 's hand held the key which was to unlock the golden chests. Suddenly appeared a notice in the New York Herald: " J L will sail from San Francisco June for the Klon- dike." " That is to be my steamer," cried I ; but to m^- great disappointment, on reaching California, it was oidy to learn that L had already sailed, and was " going in " over the Pass. So I read with avidity all articles in regard to the promised land, in order to gather the information which I had hoped to obtain from him. 52 Two Women in the Klondike i'l. 4 \i And now (after this prelude), to go back to our first eve- ning on the barge, as I sat talking to one of the passengers, a tall, fine-looking man came on board, and stopped a mo- ment to greet my companion, who, after he had passed, said to me, " That 's J L, ; did you ever hear of him ? " — " Hear of him ? More than of any other man of this part of the world." — " Do j'ou want to meet him ? I '11 go and get him," but, after a few moments, he returned, saying, " I'm very sorry, but he 's so surrounded I could n't get near him. I '11 introduce him, however, before night." After dinner his promise was fulfilled, and a most interesting chat we had. The information which he gave us was most valuable, and when we asked what chance there was of getting a house in Dawson, he immediately said, "I '11 give you one rent-free." " For how long ? " said I. " For a year," he replied. " Is there a stove in it ? " inquired practical E . " You can buy all the stoves you want in Dawson," said L, . " It must be a curious sensation to go alone to a place, and watch its development, as you have done," I remarked. " Oh, yes ; but if I had it to do over again, I 'd do differently," said L . " I 'd have a cinch on everything, and that 's what I did n't do in the first place. But do let me give you ladies a bit of advice. Don't go to Dawson ; people are dying there like sheep, and they will probai)ly have an epidemic this summer," and off he went to watch the trial trip of his new steam-launch. It seems strange to have no ligiit and no heat on board, and not to feel the need of either in this Arctic Circle, but we had no difficulty in undressing by the dying rays of the sun. Wednesday, July 6th. A long, enjoyable tramp on shore, with an Engli.shman. We finally went to the Alaska Company's stores, which were crowded. The men kindly offered to make way for me, on account of nn sex, but, their time being as valuable as mine, I followed the example of other women, and sat on the counter until my turn came. How we laughed at each new experience ! My purchases consisted of a pair of Ij Transferred at Last 53 nuick-a-lucks, four dollars, which they say are worth three times that in Dawson ; a small tin of ginger wafers, fifty cents ; and a bottle of lime juice, seventy-five cents. Not such extravagant prices as we had been led to expect. A nasty, rainy afternoon. Nothing to do but to sit on deck, talk with returned miners, and listen to the fascinating stories of Klondike life. Some of them so alarmed E about the many dangers in store for the dogs, that she sud- denly decided to send Queen back to San Francisco on the steamer SL Paul in charge of the porter who had cared for her when outward bound. Such tales never affect me, as I have learned from long experience that they are generally greatly exaggerated, so Ivan remained. After dinner, an- other most agreeable visit from L , who brought' his agent with him, instructing him that should our stores not reach Dawson in time we were to be allowed to help our- selves to his. If i !' CHAPTER VIII f- I'i ■■\ I ' WE HKAR THE SIGNAL Thursday, July 7tb. AFTER this morning's shopping experience, will retract all written yesterdaj' about prices. Ordinary single blanket for Ivan, the cheapest made, seven dollars ; a very ».ominon skirt-braid, two small pieces, twenty-five cents ; writing-pads, twenty-five cents each ; ink, twenty-five cents for a five-cent (retail) bottle, and the slimsiest kind of calico, twenty-five cents a yard — all to be carried home by the pur- chaser. A short walk with Mr. S , another interesting Englishman, and after stopping to inspect the cannon we re- turned to the Leah, to find that the early birds were being served with luncheon, and that it remained for us to stand in line until the others had finished and departed, a method certainly not calculated to aid their digestion. At two o'clock came the long-waited-for .signal — three whistles — and we rush to the barge, watching the last pas- sengers come on board. During the half-hour of suspense before starting, tales were told of a terrible ga'. outside, and of barges that had gone to pieces between here and the entrance to the river, until women were not the only ones who were in a wild state of alarm. At three we were off, and the last stage of the journey had begun. vSide bj' side went the Leah and the imrge, then the Leah went ahead, and we were taken in tow, quite a distance behind. As we fell back our former messmates shouted : " So sorry to leave you. ' ' " We '11 meet in Y^'Awsqw, perhaps.'' J , who celebrates everything, rushed for his flag, and headed a procession on top of the barge. No lack of enthusiasm could he charge 54 £ttL W'c Hear the Signal .").-^ apiaiiist the men this time. He was followed up the ladder by doctors, dentists, barkeepers, millionaires, an ex-senator, hotel-keepers, and two Kn;^lishmen. On they marched, backwards and forwards, in serpentine fashion, all singing or shouting atiything and everything, whistles screeching from steamers and tugboats, hats and handkerchiefs wav- ing, parting words, pathetic and amusing, called out and almost drowned in the distance. A photographer was on the wharf, taking pictures of the party. Retiring to my cal)in to indulge in the usual pastime of writing, a face at the window startled me. One of the passengers, walking on the extremely narrow ledge which surrounded the borge, was on a tour of investigation, cling- ing to each window as he passed ; said windows having no shutters, curtains, or mosquito nettings, the investigator was regretting his temeritj', as an attack was being made upon him by my next-door neighi)our with an umbrella, which he captured and passed into my room, begging me to take charge of it as confiscated property. At that moment K opened the door and exclaimed, " Romeo and Juliet! " then asked me to go with her to .see the first egg in the pigeon-coop, which was attracting general attention. " May n't I come through the window ? " begged Romeo. " This ledge is so narrow, and the people on this row are so unfriendly that I 'm in danger of being thrown overboard." " Yes, if j'ou '11 solemnly promise that it shall be your last offence," said E . " I never should have tried it at all had I realised the enormity of my sin," pleaded the culprit, as he finally ex- tricated himself and accompanied us to the bow of the barge. " Did you see the new pa.ssenger ? Does n't she look like Mrs. \V ?" said Y . "Which Mrs. W ?" queried K . " Why, the wife of Mr. W , to whom you have just bidden farewell at St. Michaels." "Oh! he has no wife ! he 's a widower," .said K . " You remein- ber his sad story " (nodding at me). The crowd smiled. Some even dared to laugh, while one, bolder than the others, haw-hawed, " A widower ! well, that 's pretty good ' How did he get the news ? I had a few words with his \ \:i\\ ''U '.1 1. (mi 1 '! 56 Two Women in the Klondike Ji I" i\ '• \ j j i I '1 ^^ * 1 I' } ffl ' ! i myself when she catne down to see him off, so she was all right at San Francisco!" "Oh, that was n't his wife," said E ; "you are mistaken. He told me all about /icr. She is the sister of his most intimate friend, and came to explain why her brother could not get away." "Well, if that '.s not a good joke! And you believed him?" said Y . " Certainly — why should I suppose him to be telling me so useless a lie? " W , whom we had met on the Sf. Paid, was a fine- looking man, but without much education, and K , thinking it a pity that he should .speak so ungrammatically, had taken him in hand, and he had proved \ willing pupil. Later on he confided to her a most pathetic story of the death of his beautiful wife, and of his intense grief which had caused him to eschew .society for many years. Imagine, then, with what astonishment E learned that her pupil had not only been deceiving her, but that nearly half of the passengers of the St. Paul were either acquainted with or had seen Mrs. W very often during the eight years which (according to her hu.sband's .story) she had pa.s.sed underground. E was justly indignant. Now the tables are being prepared for the first meal on the barge ; .small cliques are being formed. E tells me that we have had three invitations — first, to join Mr. O 's party ; second, the party of Mr. P ; lastly, to be seated with four others near the head of the table, but, in order not to sow the seeds of discord, .she decided that it would be bet- ter to follow the plan of the majority, who insisted upon having chairs in front of their cabin doors. Mr. P was asserting that he was tired of the crowd with whom he had been associated on the St. Paul ; while members of that crowd confided to us that they had made up their clique carefully in order to exclude Mr. P . Mr. O said we had better come to his table as he was going to boss things. Finally, as it was impracticable to keep to our de- cision, we accepted an invitation given by our former host of St. Michaels and the two Englishmen, and so congenial was the .society, so delightful the stories with which they W.H\ 1 \Vc Hear the Signal 57 entertained us, that we did not mind the " tinned " food set before us three times daily, and concluded that " roughing it " had not yet begun. As we were enjoying our first meal, a German woman came late to dimier. The steward motioned her to a vacant seat, but she stood immovable. " Here is your place. Madam," he called. " No, that is not mein place," she stoutly main- tained ; " mein place is before mein door, und before mein door will I sit, wenu this frau will get fromitaus." " Tliis frau " continued to dine quite undisturbed by the discussion. The one from Deutschland remained until mince-pie was lirought, then weakened, and finally accepted the chair which she had so scornfully declined. When we found that our napkins were to do service a second time each one went in search of a bit of ribbon, seeking a favourite colour ; besides that, the men wrote the number of our chairs in big letters on the damask. After dinner a breeze sprang up, and great excitement was caused by the breaking of the barge rudder. Manj* of the passengers declared that it was defective when we started and, on investigation, it was discovered that the tools required for making repairs had been left on the dock. Another story was circulated that the barge was leaking ; one of the men declared that he had been down below, that the pumps were being used and the cargo ruined. I finally appealed to the purser, telling him that our outfit was of some value, after which he assured me that he had made a thorough investigation and that the story of a leak was absolutely false. We were next informed that the rud- der of the steamer was showing signs of weakness, and as we had .sixty miles through Bering Sea to make before reaching " the bar," the passengers were very much frightened, and declared their intention of remaining dressed and ready for emergencies should any arise. The barge was then placed ill front of the steamer and pushed instead of towed. The floor of the barge vibrated with a serpentine motion as though each wave would prove fatal, and, recalling the accidents that liad taken place so recently, many of the passengers crossed ivdii ''1. 11, ;,.| \ HI 58 Two Women in the Klondike / '• if. t lit i|.'" 1 '. ' 1', I ' V !■ Pi! 11 to the steaniL-r and runiained on deck until 3 a.m. ; the men, .seemingly, were more alarmed than the women, as we were told that some of them slept in life-preservers. Plans were made as to our actions in case of di.saster. One of the Kngli.shmen said that if I would pronii.se to keep cool and only re.st my hands on his shoulder he could easily save me by swinnning to shore. Heated di.scussions ensued among the passengers at things having been so rushed — the same passengers who had protested vigorously against the long delay. At 3 a.m. we c ime to anchor and, on retiring to our cabins the light of the coming day was so .strong that we were obliged to hang our wraps before the window. Friday. Still waiting outside the bar ! No one could tell why, .so I inquired of the captain, who replied, " Barge rudder broken, shy on the steamer rudder, and the tools to repair them were left on the dock." There is a carpenter here, but be is wanted everywhere at once, consequentlj' the .skylight is not yet finished, and the opening is covered with canvas, excluding light, but admitting rain, to the great discomfort of the passengers, .some of whom are now shifting their quarters to the Leah. This leaves a few vacant rooms, and \\ at once informed the purser and the .steward of Mr. S 's promi.se. The former said, " Have you got it in writing ? " the latter," His words don't go here," and we were obliged to accept the inevitable, as we saw that others were taking advantage of what had been given to us conditionally. Moral, be sure and have everything in writing before you start ! Indians came with .salmon and plover for .sale. They wanted whi.skej' in exchange, but that, being too rare and precious, could not be given, — not from conscientious scru- ples, however, — so they took tea instead. After dinner, .some of the pas.sengers amused themselves by telling stories. They declared that the following " took the cake " : " Last year, when I went ' out ' from Daw.son, thought I 'd go and see what kind of a feller that little sister o' mine had married. She deserved the best that 's goin', coz she was as i Wc Hear the Si<\ '.'■ u ('■ ' ' 'A I » .: 1 ■ i ■ ii 'f HI I? f M 66 Two Women in the Klondike as they failed to run away at my shout of " Moosh ! ' which only evoked peals of laughter from the Indians, ti e poor beast, who was (piite read^ to whiji every dog there, nad ta be sent on board without his exercise, as I did not wish the winner of twenty-two prizes to be debarred from further honours by disfigurement. vSalmon was hung out to dry before every house, and all along the banks. A small boy of not more than three years of age was .smoking a pipe. As I turned the Kodak in his direction he took the pipe from his mouth to refill it from the contents of the bag which he held in his hand. I motioned to the father that the pipe should be replaced in the child's mouth ; he mider.stood the gesture, and an interesting group was taken, as the father Jl, had a tiny papoose in his arms. Mr. A kindly escorted me to the Russian church, but service was over, and we had not the time to photograph the interior. We climbed to the graveyard, but the mosquitoes were so ravenous and attacked us in such swarms, that we beat a hasty retreat, only stop- \. ping to gather a few flowers. At eleven we returned to the ship and as my English friend said we had been visiting "the most .swagger place on the Yukon," I immediately read the following in regard to it from the pamphlet hereto- fore quoted: " Ikogimut, or the Russian Mission, as it is generally called. This mission has been established manj' years and is the principal station of the Greek Church in the northern I \l portion of Alaska. The church itself is a picturesque struct- ure, and its .services most interesting. This is a favourite place for picking up curios and small furs. The water in the river at this point has l)een sounded to a depth of four ^ 'i hundred and eighty feet, indicating that it flows through an ancient crater. Here, too, the birch-bark canoe of the up- river Indian begins to be seen in competition with the .skin tjf I'l ^\ kayak of the ICskimo, for Paimut, about five hours' run up the stream from the Russian Mission, marks the dividing line between the Innuits and Ingaliks. The Eskimo and the Indians of the interior were, in former years, frequently at war, but it has been many years since any great battles l! W'c Hear the Sis^nal 6/ were fonp;lit. Still, the}' occasional! j' shoot on sight, when hunting-parties chance to meet on the ranges." 4 P.M. Met two rowboats coining from Dawson. Their occupants .shouted : " Turn back," — " Go the other way," — "Thousands waiting to get 'out.'" A river .steamer approached heavily laden. ICveryone rushed to her cabin, hoping to be ai)le to mail letters already prepared, but only friendly greetings were exchanged from a di.stance. Tue.sday, July I2th. Pandemonium let loose! Last night after a sun.set so glorious that it surpassed all others, we retired as usual at eleven. At 2 a.m. we anchored, or rather tied up to the bank at Ko.serefsky. As we had read in the .same pam- phlet, this " Holy Cross Mi.ssion is maintained l)y the Sisters of Saint Amie and the Jesuit Fathers. Here the voyager will be greatly interested in the gardening, which shows what may be done in the wr.y of raising the hardier vegetables whenever an increa.sing population .shall put Alaska to the test of its capacity for supporting life. Tur- nips, radi.shes, lettuce, potatoes, cabbages, and celery are grown with more or less success, and continuous experi- ments are made with different seeds. The work among the Indian children .shows their wonderful capacity for receiving a certain measure of in.struction, although as yet the moral results have not been all that the devoted mi.ssionaries have hoped for." We had been anticipating with great pleasure a visit to the church and the wonderful gardens, but, un- fortunately, the hour of arrival was not propitious, and we again .sought repose in .sleep. Alas ! that was impo.ssible, for, liaving no officer on tlie l)arge at night, the Indians were allowed to board her, and roam at will, not only on the nar- row ledge outside our windows, but to congregate in groups l)efore our doors, or tramp through the hall, chattering like magpies. Then came the whi.stle from an approaching steamer, and we were soon aware tliat the long-expected Alice, from Dawson, was l)eing secured to the barge. In a few moments many of her two hundred passengers ^^1 in -" 68 Two Women in the Klondike •■ I t-'.i \ 5,r \U I u I, i;' had landed on our decks, and were loudly calling for those whom they liojied to find on board. One or two of the most popular men were surrounded, and their conversation would have been of great interest at any other time. The same advice was reiterated on all sides — " Turn back. Don't go to Dawson. People are dying there like rats in a trap." Only one man was affected sufficiently to Ibllow this counsel, and his companions said that he was dreadfully homesick, and only too glad of an excuse. It was nearly 4 a.m. when the .l/ia' left and broad daylight, but we settled down to sleep, when the howling of the pack of dogs belonging to the purser reached our ears ; then came the opening of the pantry, preparations for breakfast, and another day had be- gun. On deck, the heat of the .sun was intense, but I dis- covered a shad}' nook, and was quieth' reading an Italian romance, when a voice said, " Wa'al, you do want to be ex- clusive, but I 'm goin' to stay, coz I kin git rid o' them pesky mosquitoes here ; they 're a-ljleedin' me to death, an' I kin truh' say that I fought an' bled my waj' to Dawson." 'T was the old fiddler. Then came other voices. " Mo.squitoes ! Well, I should say ! they 've bitten me till I don't need no collar-button, for there 's plenty o' bumps in the right place, and as for K , why he has buttons all over his face. Never dreamed anything living could want ter tech him." After luncheon we stopped at another .small village, the name of which it was impo.ssible to learn, and there remained until five, leaving stores on .shore. Mr. A escorted Ivan and me for a short walk, but the sun and mosquitoes soon drove us back ; we watched, with great concern and anxiety the purser bargaining for more dogs, and groaned as first one and then another was purchased and sent on board, where the howling and crying make such an agonising con- cert that the passengers would gladly have clubbed together and paid the higher price demanded farther up the river, rather than suffer night and day. Many of our passengers decided that the hot sun was conducive to laundry work. Kven the dignified and pompous Q found a tub, and no laundress could have put more energy into the work, but his We Hear the Signal 69 I '. I indignation was great when lie found that the Doctor had secured a fine picture of him at his novel employment. My English neiglil)our saitl that someone had offered to teach him how to wash his linen, that he had taken great interest in tlie lessons, but never succeeded in learning until the work was quite finished. The tramping on the roof of the barge has caused great annoyance to all those who were anxicnis to sleep before midnight, Init we had made no complaint, and were not aware that the ladder had been taken away, until we were asked to sign a petition that it should ije replaced, upon condition that all tramping overhead should cease at 10 P.M. wShortly after, the roof was again covered with promenaders. Late this evening the Leah sounded a whistle which told us we were to stop ; so hasty preparations were made ibr a w;dk on shore, l)Ut no plank was put out, only a man got off to inquire if the husl)and of Mrs. , one of our pas- sengers, was there. The story quickh' went the rounds that, while .she was on her way to meet him in Dawson, he, learning of her intention, had " skipped," and was " hurry- ing out." She had traced him to this little settlement, where lie had evaded her by three hour.s. As we wended our way to our cabins, we found them with great difficulty, the night l)eing unusually dark. I/unps have l)een hung in the mess- hall, but the stewards say that the oil was forgotten, as well as .soap and many other articles usually supplied ; we are thankful, however, at being .safely carried thus far on our trip, but there are plenty of "kickers" who complain at getting so little for three hundred dollars. '■ I i ' ^:i fj-f^' . CIIAPTI'R IX it f I I,' •1' li:; 11' 'nil'; vrivox Wednesday, July I3tli. DFRIXd breakfast we stopped at another small seltle- ineiit for wood, and again at lunch-time, when we had an opportunity to take a very short walk and to get a iew photographs. The sc^uaws all covered their heads at sight of a camera. We thought them l)a.shful, but a young Indian girl exi)lained: " They want you to pay them for being allowed to take their pictures." At four, another .stoji, long enough for .some of the pas.sengers to have a swim in the Yukon, and for the camera fiends to obtain some good views; a delightful chat and tramp on sliore with a new passenger, Mr. , who gave me most intere.sting information al)OUt Dawson. While reading after dinner, who .should approach l)Ut Colonel I) , saying, " Do yer mind if I take one o' your nice easy cheers ? It looks so comfertable an' there ain't no one a-usin' it. My wife .she 's got a nice rockin'-cheer in her cal)in, made .special for her; yer .see she 's .so fat an' so heavy she can't .sit in no ordinary cheer. vShe weighs nigh onto three hundred pounds. You 'd oughter seen her when we was married, tho', — the .slinnne.st thing yer ever .sot eyes on." Thursday, July I4lh. At two o'clock this morning, we tied up at Nulaco, where we remained cleaning lioilers, .so we were told, until eleven. Before going on .shore we read the following from the pam- phlet which has .so often l^een referred to : " At Xulato, to which the Koyukuk River pays tribute, will be found another ancient Ru.ssian post, and a well-estabiished Catholic Mis- 70 f L'p the \'uk()n I sioii. Ill 1.S3S, one Malakhof ascciuled the Yukon to Nu- lato, and tliure i)uilt a small hluckliouse. He was forced to return to vSt. Michaels fur supplies, however, and while he was K'one. the Indians burned his post. In 1IS42, Lieutenant Za^txskin built a new fort at Nulalo, and established relations with the Indians. Zai.;()skin was aided in his work by Derz- havin, one of the intre])id i)athnnders who had set out with (ila/.anof, in i.S_^3, to jjcnetrate the frozen wilds. He it was who was in conunand in 1.S51, when the since famous ma.s- sacre by the Kr.ynkan Indians occurred — famous l)ecause in it Lieutenant Ikirnard of the Ivn^lish Navy, who was there with a ])arty searching? for the lost vSir John Franklin, was butchered with the rest. The Koyukuk River, whence the.se fierce Indians came, has ])roduced .some ^oU\, and the tales of the richness of its bars have spread far and wide amon.L; the Alaskan miners. The river is navigable for a long dis- tance, but the fact that the diggings are .so far from its mouth has prevented their develojimeiit on account of the difiiculty in getting siip[)lies to them. This will soon be obviated, and the Koyukuk will offer comparatively virgin ground for the prospector. The Ala.ska Commercial Comjiany maintains a post at Nulato, and will l)e prepared to provide the necessary service on the Koyukuk." We started for a tramp with Ivan, but the native dogs, which dared not face him, set upon him in a pack when his back was turned, causing him to be ignominiously .sent on board. A large rowboat from the Koyukuk, containing two men and a woman wearing a sunbonnet, interesicd tis greatly, and still more, when the latter told us that just around the bend, in a boat with a tent, was a Mr. N , partner of one of the men whom we have " grub-staked " and whose stories of his life on the Koyukuk were so thrilling that we were strongly tempted towards that river rather than to make the trip to Dawson. His nuggets were so large and .so valuable, his jilans so wonderful, that had it not been for tear of the Indians who we were told were very savage, we .should have joinecl our man and his family on the .small yacht which was being prepared in San Franci.sco. We had a .short inter- "t ' I' if 72 Two Women in the Klondike f M •^. I view with the partner, met a ^reat nuinher of men who had " gone in " with onr man the previous year, and heard his story and learned of his (hiily life and what he had accom- plished up to the last moment of his departure for home to sell his mines. After dinner, we were cc)mforta])ly ensconced in our easy chairs in the bow of the barge, admiring the scenery, which II ■ ':- 1 '' M "I I i v.i scow ON THE YUKON. was still wonderfully beautiful, the air balmj' and soft as that of springtime at Lenox, when someone wished aloud for an ice. K- said, " Your wish can easily be granted, if j-ou can get our freezer from down below." Uj) jumped J and two other men, and in a few moments the Iree/er was on deck, taketi to the steward, who supplied the sugar, cream (tinned, of course), and extract, and half an hour later we indulged in the first ice-cream, according to all accounts, that had ever been served on the Yukon. r 1" ' T Up the Yukon 73 Many boats have passed xis to-day, contain injj; from two to L-JKlit niiiiers retnrnint^ lionie. Ivvcryone shouts the same (luestion, " II(j\v far aliead is the other steamer Z " hiieaning the one ])elonj;ing to the Columbia Navi^Mtion Comjiany, which started two days l)efi)re us.) Latest information is, that we are separated only hy four hours, consequently we are wild to overtake her, and most impatient at any >^. w. F^y.. ^^; IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V // {/ [ed with the Alaska Commercial Company. He has reminiscences of the day when the yearh- trip was made to St. Michaels to meet the lone vessel of the Russian American Company, of the feasts of that holiday time, and of the struggle against famine during many winters. There has been .some prospecting in the streams about Novikakat, but the results are as yet indefinite." On .shore we went, Init failed to find Korkorin at his po.st. E stopped at an Indian tent, where she had just con- cluded the purchase of a lot of marten skins at four dollars each, when one of our passengers entered, and, being a half- breed, engaged in a fluent conversation with the proprietor in the native tongue, which K , consequentlj-, was un- able to understand, so was filled with astoni.shment when informed that the .skins were not for sale. .Shortly after- wards a relative of the Indian maiden came on board, with the skins of which IC had been deprived. My time on shore was .spent in gathering wild pink roses, with which to decorate the dinner-tal)le, and quantities of a flower the colour of heather, i)ut with very long stems. I have omitted to .say that at the preceding stopping-place we found ground.sel growing wild, and many were the offerings to the only canary on board, who appreciated it immen.sely. We sat in our easy chairs in the bow of the boat enjoying the marvellous scenery, and the freedom from gnats and mos- quitoes which here are replaced by enormous horse-flies. Tales were being related of the different pas.sengers who were anxious to be grub-staked, and Mr. R said, " Wo- men are certainly incomprehensible. Let a man go to them as a gentleman, and offer them fine claims ! Do you think they will listen to him ? No ! they .suspect a .swindle every time ; but he has only to pose as a rough miner to be at once believed, and to fill their souls with confidence." Towards evening, the Mari^arct, belonging to the Alaska ■'Pf ill TT- Up the Yukon /D Commercial Compatiy, was seen comiiis^ toward us, and ex- citenunt was rife as she tied up alongside. The usual rush was made lor letters to send home. In.stead of asking us for war news, her passengers told us that papers of the 29th had already reached Dawson from " over the Pa.ss," bring- ing tidings that although we had captured Havana, Hobson and his brave men had been shot, and two of our .ships lost. -'■"•^.-. ^ RAFT ON THE YUKON. Thej' also warned us to turn liack, as had all those in the .small boats passed during the day ; but such advice only creates laughter, as the constant repetition seems ridiculous to those who have more than half finished .so long a journey. We lost but one of our pas.sengers. The Indian maiden who had interrupted K ^'s purchase of furs, being on her way to Dawson to meet her .si.ster, found that she was on the Maioiurt, " going out," sober grip.sack was quickly packed, and she departed. The Margaret was crowded to that de- 76 Two Women in the Klondike m gree that men were sleeping on tables, under tables, and even on the cords of wood on deck, and they informed us that, as there are still thousands waiting to " go out, " there was little chance for newcomers to secure transportation down the Yukon. Before reaching the Margaret we had a pilot who had landed us on sand-bars twice during the day, so we speedily exchanged him for the one who had brought this craft safely down the river. Saturday, July i6th. If the scenery yesterday was grand, what can be said of that through which we have been passing to-daj- ? Mount- ains, and relays of mountains, narrow gorges, rapids, all that is most wild and picturesque ! We had been too rapt in ad- miration even to read, but, as there nmst be ever a slight blot on all that is beautiful, so this scene was partially marred by the gradual approach of a heavy fog, as we thought it, until the air became laden with .smoke, and, as night came on, we saw that the mountains on all .sides were on fire. Truly a gorgeous sight, which would have been still more brilliant had it not been for the ball of fire that hung in the west, making all else in.significant by compar- ison. All daj- we had steamed without stopping. At la.st in the distance we beheld great .stacks of wood piled high on the shore, so all made preparations for a short tramp, until the captain shouted, " How much for the wood ? " " Fifteen dollars a cord, " was the reply. " Keep it," — and on we went. Just beyond, another lot was plainly visible, but for that seventeen dollars a cord was asked ; at the third place, twenty, which caused the passengers to discuss the likeli- hood of being called on to fell trees, in order that the Alaska Commercial Company should not be obliged to pay such ex- orbitant prices. At last. Fort Adams was in sight, and as we had read of the " Kpiscopal church and Mission," where the :hildren of the .school were " particularly proficient," and that there was also " a trading post and something in the way of gardening," we were looking forward to an interesting half- hour, only to be disappointed, as no one was allowed to land. Up the Yukon f- We also passed in the night, without seeing, " Tanana or Niikhikyets — an important trading post, for here there conies into the Yukon, from one side, the trade of the Tozikakat River, and from the other, that of the great Tanana. The Tanana drains the country lying between the Copper River and the Yukon, as far south as the White River. It is ex- pected that the country about the head waters will prove one of the richest in all the land, when once it has been prospected. Little is known, however, of the river, and the Indians who guard its treasures are inclined to be hostile. However, at Tanana, there is an interesting store and an enormous turnip patch, which latter indicates that could all men live after the famous reconnnendation of Colonel Sellers on ' turnips and water,' there need be no starvation in the land. The store is operated for the Ala.ska Commercial Company by A M -, once a circus man, but who has been in Alaska for thirty years. Here, the Indians, from as far as the sources of the Tanana, come to exchange their fish and furs for powder, lead, and some of the edible comforts of civilisation." After dinner there was a concert in the raess-hall of the barge — music-box, graphophone, violins, etc., — but although we heard at intervals the clapping of many hands, the grand- eur of the .scenery kept us spellbound to the deck. " I 'd just like to catch him at it," growled a voice near us. " Me too ! I would n't give him time to say his prayers ! Why, that 's the lowest kind o' stealing, to take our champagne when it 's all we 've got and no more to be had for love or money. How do you s'pose he managed to smuggle them out o' tiie cabin ? " — " Oh, did it when everybody else was on shore." — " Yes, but where has he hid the stuflf? I move we have a general search made." — " How many bottles did he take ? " — " Why, eight ; we had four the other night be- tween us, out o' the dozen. Pity we had n't drunk 'em all; and now here 's R had six pairs o' muck-a-lucks stolen right out of his bag, atid no trace of them or of the thief. If you leave a paper or magazine on the talile you may bet your life you '11 never see it again, but what 's the use o' 78 Two Women in the Klondike V I. complainin' ? nobod}' pays the least attention to it." This recalled to nie that IC 's fountain-pen had been taken from her cabin, and that the thief must have had abundance of time, as he had stopped to fill it ; while my bag, which was in the mess-hall with three locked straps on it, had been cut dowji the side and the articles extracted therefrom. I had sent the purser a note calling his attention to the fact, but not a word did he condescend to give in reply, although my cabin-boy had orders to wait for an answer. We remained on deck until eleven, hoping to catch a glimpse of Rampart City, but found that we were not to make -hat settlement until 2 a.m. We might just as well have remained up, for when we did get there sleep was im- possible. One of the passengers had brought out .some whiskey, and was treating the crowd in the hall before our door. Such a babel of voices ! And we were told the fol- lowing day that the .supply of whiskey in Rampart having given out, her citizens were offering our passengers nine dollars a bottle. W^e breathed a sigh of relief as the whistle blew, the men rushed for shore, and we slowly steamed awaj' ; then came the howling and yelping of the dogs, which lasted until drowned by the clattering of dishes and preparations for breakfast. Sunday, July 17th. Women in the dining-room sewing ; men on deck with rifles, waiting for something at which to shoot ! At ten, we .stopped at a bank where there was a coal sign. The usual question was asked, and as this fuel co.^t only ten dollars a ton we took on board a goodl}' quantity of stuff which looked like black dust. We were told that this condition was due to the coal's having been frozen, so that it could not be ex- tracted in large bits. Poor Ivan was let loose ftom the ter- rible heat of the engine-room and the howling of the other dogs, which is so racking to the nerves that we now fear his good habits may be spoiled and his training prove non- effective by association with these " Siwash " mongrels. To think that sixty dollars was the price paid for .such quarters and companionship just from St. Michaels to Daw- '■!.! up the Yukon son, and we supply the dog's food ! How we longed for Sunday peace and quiet after such a night, but it was not to be. Scarcely were we again on our way when our ears were pierced by the rasping noise of a badly played violin, which had to be endured until the bell rang for luncheon. Later in the day, the sky grew dark, then leaden coloured. A storm was brewing. Nervous women, terrified at the thought of a thunder-storm amidst the mountains, flocked into the dining-room like a herd of sheep — only to be to- gether. The scene soon became one of most imposing grand- eur, in which I revelled, seated alone in the bow of the boat, well protected by cap and mackintosh, as the rain came down iti torrents. I was roused by hearing in coarse tones, — " Wa'al, I 've often heern tell on people what did n't know enuff to come in when it rained, but I never seen one afore, an' detarmined to sit out in such a downpour. Why. she '11 have rheumatiz sure as fate." Another approached, say- ing, " Mrs. H , if you don't come in from that there rain, we '11 have to kerry you in, cheer an' all," and so were my thoughts brought down from the sublime and magnificent. Shortly after, the Doctor came to ask if I would not like to meet and talk with the famous Hank S , saying, " You don't want me to bring him out here in the rain, so let us all sit inside." Following the Doctor, I soon came face to face with the new passenger, one of the noted miners of this part of the world, who, having passed eight years in Alaska, had left Dawson only eight days previously, consequently, his conversation was of intense interest ; but he gave us the same advice as we have heretofore received from all others : " Better turn back, even at this late day, for typhoid fever and malaria are raging. Even those on the hill are not free from what may soon become an epidemic, and there are not steamers enough to transport those waiting to leave. Unless this exorbitant Canadian royalty be soon repealed, there will be no more mines worked, as even the richest claim-owners are unwilling to pay ten per cent, to such extortionists." Mr. vS then showed us the beautiful big nugget he had w 80 Two Women in the Klondike /ll: i h; ' I I M first panned out, a ring made from gold taken from one of his claims, and told of the man who had first grub-staked him, to whom he was able to send twelve thousand dollars in ninety days. But grub-stakitig is rarely so profitable, for many tales do we hear of these meti who, after striking it rich, forget those who have assisted them in time of need, sell their claims, carrying the result where it cannot he reached by the rightful owner, who, according to miners' laws and agreements, is entitled to one-half. " Have you seen Rampart ? " he asked. " No ; what does the pamphlet say about it ? " E inquired, and I read the following : ' ' Then come the Lower Ramparts, where the water goes furiously between great walls rivalling in picturesqueness the famed Palisades of the Hudson. During the highest freshets, the current is said to attain a speed of eleven knots in the rapids. But the ingoing miner will be most interested in Rampart City, near the mouth of Big Minook Creek, be- cause this new city is the commercial centre of the Minook Mining District, where will be found the first definite mining as yet encountered on the journey. Here is a bustling town grown up around the big new store and warehou.se of the Alaska Commercial Companj'. From this, the miners carry their supplies in all directions to the claims on Little Mi- nook, Hunter, Alder, and the many ether gold-bearing creeks in the neighbourhood. They are alwajs certain of a plentiful food supplj', there being none of the bars to navigation below Minook which make the later trips so uncertain on the upper river. On account of the numbers who have settled at Rampart City, the entire country round about will undoubtedly be thoroughly prospected. Expeditions across the Divide, into the Koyukuk head waters have been planned, and it is quite probable that Rampart City will become the point of supply for Koyukuk mines." What a pity that we were unable to vi.sit so thriv- ing a place, but we '11 do it on our return trip. At each point we rounded, we gazed longingly for Fort Hamlin, of which we hid been reading from the same au- thority: "It is the next important post. Here are large u up the Yukon 8i warehouses of the Alaska Commercial Company. These are i?etierally filled with stores, waiting to be forwarded to the different mining-camps. ' ' Towards ten o'clock a turn in the river showed Fort Hamlin directly before us, and a small steamer tied to a tree. We prepared for the anticipated tramp, but to our keen disappointment there was no wood to be had, so on we went, after having " slowed up " long enough to talk with the captain of the Vidoria. The ru- mour was that .she had come to assist in towing our barge over the Yukon Flats, but we went on without her. i» I ! • I j't CHAPTER X ^ I r Hi. i I; f!i i/ Is 1 1 DISCOMFORT OK BARGK LIFE Mondiiy, July iSth. LAST night on reaching my cabin, mattress and pillow were wet with the rain that ha 1 leaked in, but having learned the lesson that " kickers " are treated with contempt and disconrtesy, the only thing to be done was to i)ear it un- complainingly, and roll up in Ijlankets with a life-preserver for a pillow. Wakened at 5 a.m. by the I'idona bumping against the barge, men running along the ledge before the windows, and directions being shouted to make fa.st along- side ; then followed the awful howling of the dogs ; then preparations for breakfast, and no chance to sleep for another eighteen hours at least. From overhead we heard .shouts of " Moose " and " Bear." Men called excitedly to others to get their rifles, as the animals were .swinuning acro.ss the river, but nothing came within reach. After breakfast we looked for the Victoria, which was nowhere in sight. One of the passengers informed us that her captain had let go the bow-line instead of the stern, when the current cauglit her, threw her against our ropes and broke her paddle-wheel, so that she had been obliged to lay up for repairs. In tying up at the next wood-pile, our barge was detached from the Lcali, many of who.se passengers were visiting us ; a plank was thrown across but it was so narrow that they did not dare to cro.ss, and so were prisoners for luncheon. At our next stopping-place we were met by two men from Halifax, who had spent eight days in Dawson, had had enough, and were on their return trip. Thej' managed to 82 w. Mil •f n ^ z o ie 3 >- Ul I h- O z s CO q: O X I. 39 Hi 11 nk lot ■\mv. ,>,« ->.>■ Ul if ik to ' ' ft'f I 84 Two Women in the Klondike r 'f t' '' 1 ■ « i y •'i live by chopping wood for river steamers wherever they hap- pened to camp for the night and received from our purser fifteen dollars a cord. A general " kick " was inaugurated when the steward announced dinner at half-past four this afternoon, the men saying that the hour had been constantly advanced since leaving vSt. Michaels, until now, by having the last meal so early, they are forced into paying for sup- pers and feeing the boys for extra work. Another wrong was also righted after a fashion, this evening. During the entire trip, men have been complaining from time to time that their cargo was being ruined. Notwithstanding this, matters were left without investigation, until one of the captain's favourites went down to procure some articles from her trunk. She returned most unhappy over its condition and must have gone at once to him, for scarcely had we finished dinner, when he accompanied her to the hatchway, had it opened, sent some of his men down and had all trunks brought on deck. Up they came, covered with mould, then wet mattresses, and small tents mildewed ; the passengers on all sides looked on, groaning, "What a shame!" " D d outrage ! " " Our goods packed where they can be ruined and the Company's goods nicely stored in high, dry space on the steamer!" However, we are lucky to have our boxes up, even though our stores are still in the dampness ; and we are told that our beautiful new tent is not fit to be seen. Tuesday, July 19th. A very quiet day ! Scarcely anything to record except stopping at 10 a.m. to take on six cords of wood, where, un- fortunately, the banks were so steep and the woods so filled with mosquitoes, that few of us were able to land, and were thankful to get away from the heat, for there is always a pleasant breeze wliile travelling on the Yukon, no matter how intense the rays of the sun. At 4 p.m. another hour at a wood-pile, but the drift-wood was so thick along the banks, that one walked with difficulty, as it cracked and broke under the feet at each step. The protest against early ditnier has had its effect, and the bell was not rung until after five. iT ;:';f Discomfort of Barge Life 85 The niphts are deliciously cool. Hardly do we finish dinner, before an icy breath passes thronj^h the air and robes and wraps are iti demand. Not a .star has been visible in the heavens since we left St. Michaels, and to- night as we .sat in our little corner of the barge peacefully discussing that and other astronomical subjects, we were startled l)y an unu.sual invasion of mosquitoes, which at- tacked so ferociously that even our .shields afforded little pro- tection, and we were driven to our cabins, there to wage war until 5 A.M., when the attack suddenly ceased. We fell into a delicious sleep, which lasted about fifteen minutes, then chairs were draq^ji^ed from under the tables, and the stewards, who were sweeping the dining-room, engaged in loud con- versation. Groans were heard on all sides, and when the bell rang calling passengers to breakfast they would gladly have had quiet and sleep in preference to all the delicacies of the season. Wednesday, July 20th. We are all indignant this morning. The Sovcrciffu passed us at six o'clock and here we are three hours later, tied up again to the bank, and have been for the last hour and no- body knows the reason why, although questions have been freely asked. We are chafing under the detention. 9.30. The Victoria, having repaired damages, has now overtaken us and is alongside ready to assist in towing. Predictions are rife that she will bring us bad luck. We are now in the Yukon Flats, of which our guide-book .says : " The.se extend from Fort Hamlin clear to Circle City, a distance of about four hundred miles. The river widens and the water flows in many channels, between number- less islands ; undoubtedly there was once a great lake in the basin, larger than any lake of to-day. At the Ram- parts there probably was a fall greater than Niagara, be- fore the water cut its way through the mountains, and drained the lake into the sea. After the waters subsided the flats became the home of the mastodon, the fo.ssil remains and ivory tusks of this great animal being found here in profusion, especially on Mammoth Island, which seems to ^w , I "\\ 86 Two Women in the Klondike !( .i: i'-| !:■; Hi m & 1) *il! M IB m have been a bnrying-place for them. Indian stories come driftinj; along occasionally to the effect that some of these monsttrs are still alive in the comparatively unexplored territory around the head waters of Copper River, but the yarns are probal)ly as apocryphal as that about Alexander Badlam's side-hill bear which had the legs on one side of the body ' longer than they really ought to be.' " Into the Yukon Flats empty the Porcupine River.'Birch Creek and other streams, and in its course through them the Yukon touches its most northern point, an elbow sticking up into the confines of the Arctic Circle. Here, just at the poiiit of the elbow is Fort Yukon, and there Russian domin- ance gave way in the early days to English sway. Old Fort Yukon was established by the Hudson Bay Company, its agents coming over from the Mackenzie by way of the Porcupine, and establishing their post near the point where the northern river entered the Yukon. A few traces of the old fort remain a short distance from the newer settlement. Here the English Company introduced its ' huskies ' in place of the wolf-dog of the Eskimo and carried on an ex- tensive fur trade until it was found that the English had no right to the country. All supplies came in, and all ship- ments went out by the Porcupine, the Mackenzie, and the great Canadian lakes. In this way Fort Yukon became one of the most remote outposts of the white man. At present, there is comparatively little business transacted there, though there is an Episcopal mission and school, and quite a settlement of Fort Yukon Indians. At Fort Yukon, the traveller is well within the land of the midnight sun, for here at midnight a photograph was taken of great game, killed by the light of the same luiquenching orb. Here, too, in dead of winter, the aurora borealis makes its most gorgeous displays when ' the northern lights c ne down o' nights to dance with the houseless snow.' " Thursday, July 2ist. After having read and copied the foregoing in regard to Fort Yukon, we passed without running in, but congratu- /S, Discomfort of Barge Life 87 lated ourselves, as we saw the Sovereign not far ahead, that plans were being made to overtake her. To our great dis- gust, however, we were soon tied up to another wood-pile where we remained until midnight, groaning and suffering under attacks of myriads and myriads of ravenous mosquitoes and vicious gnats. Some of the passengers assisted in pre- parations for arranging two new rudders, without which the captain dared go no farther into the Flats. A short walk on shore through tiie driftwood and dead branches resulted in a torn skirt and defaced shoes, only compensated for by a few new photographs. After dinner E and I were joined on deck bj' a pleasant parly. " What was all the noise last night ? " said R . "Is it possible that anybody on board could have slept through it ? " replied D . " Why, the Mdoria overtook us, and as she has no cage to protect us from the cinders, they fell in a shower over the top of the barge and set fire to it several times, so that some of the boys had to stay up there with buckets of water. Poor Mrs. H lost her beau- tiful new hammock-chair, which went up in a blaze, P and several other fellows had their coats burned, and I guess it is going to do some damage to us now," said he, springing up as the wind changed and a shower of cinders covered us. The gale became stronger, the sky so black that it seemed as though a terrible typhoon was approaching. We sought refuge in the dining-hall where manj' of the pas.sengers were playing whist, cribbage, and muggins. The stewards, cabin-boys, and cook were seated familiarly at the same table, and, notwithstanding the signs of " No smoking," which are po.sted in different parts of the mess-room, cigars, cigarettes, and pipes were being freely used, the odour of bad tobacco fdling this, the only sitting-room, and penetrat- ing through the lattice-work into the cabins on either side. Friday, July 22nd. Awakened this morning by the Victoria' sh€\\\% changed and tied up outside of our cabin window, shutting off light and air, and we were obliged to make it still darker by 1 \\>\ I I! f , % I ?; ll tit: ^i\\' I 'i m! '4 88 Two Women in the Klondike drawing the curtains, as there were men on her decks, con- versing in loud tones. To the usual slamming of chairs and dishes, loud whistling was added, until the noise became deafening. From eleven till two we were tied up to the banks. At noon, to the anger and disgust of all the passengers, the /o/m C. Barr, of the North American Trans- portation Company, passed us, those on board waving hand- kerchiefs and hats, hurrahing, hurling shouts of derision,' calling that they would wait for us in Dawson, etc. Then the " kicking " from our passengers began, and these ex- pressions were heard: " What did they tell us in San Fran- cisco ? That we should be the first ones to arrive ! that no other company would be able to keep such a promise. Oh, no ! and here w^ are, sent on a steamer towing a heavy barge, crawling at a snail's pace, so as to carry in the Com- pany's freight. Last night we was within thirty-five miles of Circle City and here we are, nearly eighteen hours after, tied up at a wood-pile, with still ten miles to make and everything on the river passin' us. Oh ! we 're in luck, we are ! The Sovereign, the Monarch, and the Darr all ahead of us, their passengers to get the good claims, the best cabins, the best of everything, while we who paid extra for just such luck are left here to kick our heels on the bank ! ' ' Such an unhappy lot ! We had half an hour's tramp on shore, where we were surprised at being able to gather mulberries, currants, and raspberries, which grew wilu. We had an interview with Rip Van Winkle's double, who has lived here some years raising turnips, radishes, lettuce, and carrying them over the trail to Circle City. He was doing well until the river rose and carried away his entire garden. What a delicious luncheon we had I — fresh radishes and sweet potatoes, which never before had we properly appreciatP"^. At 4.30 p.m. we reached Circle City, and were delighted lO see Xhajo/m Barr tied to the banks, but alas ! she pushed off even as we ar- rived and her passengers .shouted, " We will deliver our own messages in Dawson, thank you, and will not trouble you, who have tarried so long by the way, to give them." The L^»\ Discomfort of Barge Life 89 I !■ plank was soon out, and here some half-dozen passengers left us to tempt fortune in a strange land. The French girl who had informed us that she was to be married on arrival, as her fiance had sent for her, had basely deceived us if a newcomer was to be believed, who said that she had been sent for to be their cook at one hundred dollars a month. We were greatly astonished at the size of Circle City. We went first to the post-office, simply to see it, expecting nothing and receiving nothing. We concluded afterwards to post our letters home from there, although told that they would go more quickly via Dawson and the Pass ; still, we wanted the Circle City stamp on the envelope, for who can tell how much longer the town may exist. The Doctor overtook us, and presented the famous pioneer, Mr. M , who has been thirty-five years in Alaska, and has a hand- some Indian wife. He informed us that, although Dawson has a population of from ten to forty thousand. Circle City contains more houses, and is much healthier, as the former is in a frightful sanitary condition. We peeped into the dance-hall, and were told of an entertainment that had taken place the previous night which, in the words of our in- formant, " even the nicest people from the other steamer attended, and they did n't put on no airs, but followed the rule of the mining-camp, and danced with every fellow what asked 'em. They don't ask nothing to go in, but you have to order a drink fer each girl you dance with, and every drink costs a dollar." We also peeped into a couple of restaurants, saw fine-looking bread at twenty-five cents a loaf, pies fiftj' cents each, clam-chowder fifty cents, and the tables covered with dainty white linen. In the midst of in- vestigations which we were highly enjoying the dinner-bell called us back to the barge. There was the usual grum- bling, — " Why could n't they have postponed it a little while ? " etc. We were stopped by Mr. P , who intro- duced to us a man of about thirty years of age. " Have you been here long ? " I questioned. " Why, I 'm the Mayor," he replied ; " and this is my fourth year at Circle." A second ringing of the bell reminded us that we were keep- II i I'l / T 'I 90 Two Women in the Klondike ill ^''1 1 jng the stewards waiting, and that it was already after five, so we joined the crowd who were all going on board under protest. After dinner we were grieved at being obliged to say farewell to Mr. S , one of the most popular of our passe ng'js. May good luck attend him ! His hand was shaken again and again by those who were sad indeed to leave him behind, and his loss will be mourned by more than one. We had two new and entertaining arrivals who contradicted many of the stories we had heard of Dawson. In fact, all stories in this part of the world seem to be told but to be contradicted. According to the newcomers, Dawson is exceedingly healthy, prices are very low — bacon only twenty cents a pound, whereas we are paying fifteen cents a pound freight, while this, added to original price and dut3' to be paid, would prove it wiser to start empty- handed and purchase provisions at the journey's end. An- other new passenger who has a dozen claims in Circle as well as in Dawson, said: " I 've concluded to let others work 'em, while I take a job on a steamer at five dollars a day. I kin save money bj- it, for when I 'm on shore I kin never let whiskey alone ; why I spend as high as a hundred dollars a day for it." Our pigeons have attracted great attention, and we have received many fine offers for them, but prefer ' ' squabs on toast." The man who wants the ice-cream freezer has gradually increased his bid, which now stands at eighty dol- lars, as he has heard he can get ten dollars a glass for ice- cream ! I IS ' 'I ■ / ■IMla itfia I !■ CHAPTER XI NEARING OUR DESTINATION Saturday, July 23rcl. OUR guide-book tells us that " the camp called Circle City was founded in the autumn of 1894. Up to the time of the discoveries on the Klondike, this was the wonder city of the north. The mines on Birch Creek and its tribut- aries proved to be so easily worked that two thousand peo- ple from all over the world flocked to the new camp. Four miles of cabins soon extended along the river, in the centre of which line of habitations was the Alaska Conmiercial Company's commodious post. In this new settlement ' the games never closed.' Here were theatres, restaurants, stores, saloons, — in short, a city. The miners made and executed their own laws. Theft, nuirder, and outrages upon the per- son were practically luiknown. Fortunes in gold could be left for a year in an unlocked cabin, and none would come to break in and steal. The success of this miners' govern- ment at Circle City is one of the most notable examples fur- nished by history of the ability of the people to govern themselves. Though the rush to Dawson in 1S96-97 almost depopulated Circle, much gold is known to remain in the Birch Creek diggings, which are some fifty-two miles away, but reached bj' a good horse trail. The camp will undoubt- edly make a large output of gold for years to come." Bush- rod Washington James says of it in 1897 : " Circle City is a considerable town of about two thousand inhabitants when they are at home, but subject to variation of population. Many fine placer mines surround this really important city, but the rage for the Klondike gold-fields has for the time 91 III ( '■ 1 92 Two Women in the Klondike }} li -k V almost depopulated the comfortaV)le log houses of which the town is built." How thankful we were to leave behind n? the I'idona which had caused loss to so many of our paEsengers! For the first time we were able to sleep soundly from midnight until 6 A.M.. when awakened as usual by the stewards. The tables are never lifted, but always dragged across the wooden floor to the accompaniment of loud conversation. No plate is ever laid on the table, l)ut dropped as though to see from how great a height it may be done without breaking, and some are either growing to be very expert at the game, or else the dishes are of unusual strength. While writing this morning it suddenly grew very dark, and E said, " A rain-.storm, probably," but as she glanced out of the window exclaimed that the darkness was caused by the immense height of the mountains, that seemed almost near enough to touch. The scenery is growing more wild and attractive. Someone has been, and still is, dancing a hornpipe over head with such force that the boards above bend with each emphatic kick, which causes me to regret having signed the petition requesting that the confiscated ladder might be re- placed ; but, thank the Lord, Dawson is only three hundred miles distant, and this tedious fight against the seven-miles an-hour current of the Yukon will soon be ended. If we had only dared cross the Pass " going in," taking this means of leaving the country, we should have had this tremendous current aiding us the entire way. The day has been passed in silent admiration of the grandeur of the mountainous scenery — chain upon chain of rocks crowned with trees, which seem to be growing from the solid stone, and down the sides to the water's edge, with never a sign of earth to support the roots. Smoke on all sides fills the air, as camp-fires are built and not extinguished, and the flames slowly climb the mountain-side, destroying the much-needed wood, and spoiling the picture otherwise so beautiful. Sunday, July 24th. So chilly to-day that shirt-waists have been discarded for .11 i; Ncarinir our Destination 93 ,f thicker garments and wraps, and few can remain out of doors. The mess-hall is filled with card-players. The mi.s.sionaries and tho.se devoutly inclined .shut them.seh'es in their cabin.s, but that does not prevent them from hearing all that takes place in the universal sitting-room. Before luncheon a great shout went up, followed by .shrieks, hur- rah.s, cat-calls, " We '11 meet you in Dawson." Looking through the cabin-window, I saw the /(?//« /A///- replenishing with wood, and the cheers of our passengers meant that we were slowly but surely leaving her behind. " Don't you be so cocky," they called ; " wait until you need wood again, and then our turn will come." 4.30. The shrieks are recommencing, which announce to those below that the / clean, table covered with damask, and even napkins (.something unusual in this part of the world) at each place. The menu, begin- \h ^i I \i< z o < ill < UJ I- 03 q: u > a z s o o _i UJ ||1| ', I \ i- r rr^ lo: Tuc) Women in the Klondike it ,1 I! ,1 ning with " oyster cocktails," caused us to open our eyes wide with astonishniuiit, after all that the papers have told us of the starvation aljout Dawson. We next visited the kitchen adjoining, where there \vas a stove that would have gladdened the heart of any cook at home. The chef was said to be from Marchand's, of San Francisco. The pro- prietress explained to us that she had sent for chairs, which had arrived without legs, they having been left on the dock at St. Michaels, one of the inconveniences that one has to bear through the negligence of transportation companies, so she had carpenters at fifteen dollars a day manufacturing new legs. On the second floor, a long, narrow hall separated rooms that were al)out double the size of an ordinary cabin on ship- board. Each room contained a primitive wooden bedstead, but there was no space for wardrobe, closet, or dressing- table. Kvidently the pride of the hostess's heart was cen- tred in Brussels carpets and lace curtain.s, to which she called our attention as having been introduced into Daw.son for the fi:,->t time. The price of one of these tiny rooms was six dollars and a half a day, food five dollars extra, or two dollars a meal. On the third floor the carpenters were bu.sy preparing for the evening dance, after which the large hall was to be partitioned off into small rooms, at five dollars a day each, providing that the .sojourn of the guest .should be at least of one month's duration, otherwi.se terms to be increased accordingly. We were cordially invited to return for the dinner at iop.m., and also for the dance. Noticing that there were no panes of glass in the windows, which were simj^ly covered with cheese-cloth, we asked what happened in case of rain, and were told that it very rarely rained, but that when it did there would probably not be sufficient to do any damage. Glass also had been ordered, but, as usual, it was impos.sible to tell when or by what steamer it would arrive. From the hotel we continued our walk as far as the banks of the famous Klondike River. But of it and its at- tractions later — in case we have the courage and good fortune to tramp in that direction to pan out gold on a claim of our I04 Two Women in the Klondike tr < < fll, ';f It' own. Then to the other end of town, to a small cabin 12 x iS on the hillside, it being the one upon which we had an option for two thousand dollars. As it was crowded in by tents on all sides, with the sun beatin.c; down upon it, and as we were exhausted b\' the long tramp after a six-weeks' voyage, we were finally persuaded to row across tlie Yukon to West Dawson, which was described to us as being on high ground, healthy and cool, and just the place for our tent. Our guide invited the Doctor to accompany us in his canoe. Going over is very easy, as the current carries the boat at the rate of at least five miles an hour, if not more, but the return trip requires strong oars and stout arms. We landed at the foot of a picturescjue bank, which was already in its favour, as compared with the marshy swamp on the opposite side. Plentj' of room tliere was for an ordin- ary tent, but it was difficult to find space sufficient for our 40x70. Finally, we came to a bit of ground belonging to Mr. , who told us that, as he was leaving the following day, he would gladly give up to us his rights of po.ssession, before starting on a prospecting trip. Tlie miners from all the tents in that vicinity were sitting outside, enjoying their evening meal, from which they rose to give us cordial wel- come, and to tell us that in case we were prevented from turn- ing up on time they would allow no one else to "jump " the site. They al.so begged us not to hire men to pitch the tent, as they .should like the pleasure of doing it for us. Although thej- were clad in rough miners' costumes, their gentle and kindly manners showed that at home they occupied positions of no slight prominence. At 9 r..Ai. the sun was .still light- ing us on our way, and we decided that with three .steamers in port, it would be a fine occasion for " doing the town " as it is called iiere. We were first escorted to the dance-hall of the place, and slipped through a private entrance into a l)ox that was curtained, so that we were free from observation while able to .see all that took place. Nothing could have been more highly proper than the dancing, which consisted of waltzes, polkas, and military schottisches, inlerspenstd with occa.sional ^ Tn o < o H UJ 111 a: H O a: u a: H < UJ X I- ir < o u I- z o s i* I iijlL ,,l I I .' ,1 ' T7T i ' t» »! io6 Two Women in the Klondike .v5 i; .1 •' t ■ I ,1] square dances, which seetned more hke Caledonians than lancers or (jnadrilles. The "girls," as they were called, seemed to be between twenty-five and thirty years of age. A lot of Dawson " society" men were dancing with them, the handsomest being " Nigger Jim," whom we watched admiringly from our peep-hole as he " trod the mazy " with a sombrero hat on the back of his head, a cigar in his mouth, and the most debonair air imaginable. According to the rule of the house, drinks at one dollar each must be ordered after every dance. In case the " girl " does not care to drink, her partner gives her a check which she is allowed to " cash in " later, receiving twenty-five cents from the pro- prietor of the dance-hall. She is also paid twenty-five dollars a week for dancing, or at least so we were informed. In the rear of the hall was a stage and there were ensconced five men who composed the orchestra, and very good music they produced. We heard one or two songs from the O Sisters, and then adjourned to the Monte Carlo Tlieatre, where we witnessed a thoroughly respectable variety show, which came to an end a little before midnight, after which we were escorted safely back to our barge through crowded streets, where law and order are wonderfully well maintained. The first visit that E- Thursday, July aSth. - and I paid this morning was to the post-office, to inquire for the large batch of mail which we supposed had been sent in to us over the Pass. To our great astonishment there was but one letter. We sent for the postmaster, who listened most courteously as we told him of the books, magazines, and papers which we had ordered to be forwarded long before our departure. He politely ex- plained that a very small mail had been sent in over the Pass, but that the greater quantity would come by the Alliance according to contract made by our Government. First disappointment. The Alaska Commercial Company is very generous in allowing jiassengers to remain on the boats until they have found comfortable accommodations. On returning to lunch- The Promised Land 107 eon we were greatly interested in the different plans. Tlie old fiddler said : " There ain't nothin' here for nie. The whiskey business is overdone— saloon on every corner, an' a dozen thrown in i)etween ; restaurants everywhere ; houses with only one room, the clieapest on 'em a hundred dollars a month ; me an' my wife 's goin' back on this same steamer." One of the mo.st energetic passengers was a Ger- man, who, with her daughter and two .sons, had already visited every available site in town, had purchased a con- trolling interest in the .swinnning-bath, and was planning to partition from it one side, which she intended to run as a laundry ; the other for her daughter to serve ice-cream, cakes, and " .soft drinks." The Colonel's wife was mo.st indiappy, as the German had engaged the two " servant-girls which I 've raised and brought up here," said she, " and now they won't go back with me." Before leaving San Francisco, we had supplied ourselves with certificates of deposit on the Bank of California, worth iift}^ dollars each, which we were told were not only " as good as gold," but " comma:'. 1 a premium of from ten to fifteen per cent, in Dawson." Imagine, then, our surprise at being obliged to pay two dollars and a half a hundred for the privilege of exchange. Another surprise was when, after luncheon E and I started on a shopping expedition, she was greeted by a man who had travelled through Kgypt in her party in '95. After dinner we were asked to accom- pany a few friends on an exploring expedition, but, feeling exhausted, preferred sitting in our easy chairs on top of the barge, from which point we commanded the entire town. Our first visitor was Mrs. , a former pa.ssenger, whose hus- band is a Dawson phy.sician. He accompanied her, and we were greatly amused by the experiences which they related. " Our cabin, although large for Dawson," .said she, " is too small to contain trunks, furniture, and a stove, so we do with- out the latter and take our meals at restaurants, but oh, how I hate to .see four dollars passed out three times a day just for our food! As for the Doctor, he is so -^customed to receiv- ing seventeen dollars for a visit that h' does n't mind." j^^^u 5P 1 08 Two Women in the Klondike M :,! I : If Good Father R joined our party and told me that one of the Sisters at the hospital here had been in the hospital at St. Josephs, Victoria, during niy stay there, and that she was anxious to see nie. How delightful it will l)e to meet her again in this far-away corner of the world! Mr. L then presented the correspondent of the New York Herald and a Mr. J , who we were informed was the rightful CANADIAN BANK OF COMMERCE, DAWSON. 'I f owner of the land which we have been inspecting in West Dawson. He told me that he and his partner had staked out one hundred and sixty (or perhaps many more — have forgotten the number) acres. Thej^ had paid the commis- sioner a deposit of fifty dollars on the land, which he had accepted. They had spent many thou.sands in clearing it and in starting a fine garden. Just as radishes, and manj' other delicacies (for that part of the world) were spring- ing into life, the squatters came, and, as the Government m The Promised Land 109 had failed to protect his rights, this garden had been aban- doned, and he would be delighted to have us as neigh- bours. Some miners were here introduced, among them one of the " Klondike Kings." I begged for a story, whereupon he said that one of the nio.st amusing things that had hap- pened to him was the receipt of the following letter, which he kindly allowed me to copy : " Dear : Doubtle.ss you will be .surpri.sed to receive a letter from your native land in far-off America, but seeing your picture in the paper with details of your sojourn in the Gold Regions, and pleased with your courage and Perse- verance thought I would like to make the acquaintance of one that has .spent 8 loiii^ years in the Yukon after so many reverses becomeing the Mineing King How true if you don't succeed at first trj' try again and you surely have been rewarded for your trials and hardships endured which I suppose was manj^ and hard at the time. Yet wherever we are, there are more or less hardships to bear. Though my younger days were spent with nnic/i Happiness haveing everything that Heart could wish. Then I married one of the best men of the world and my life was a plea.sant Dream of loir, initil he died leaving me alone in this cold, cold world. Not haveing children, I have spent most of my time with relatives here and in the West. I am very fond of travelling, and have been fortunate in that respect. The paper .speaks of j-our Wandersome disposition. True, that is very well when we are young. My experience is that there is no place like a Pleasant Home, with a loveing and devoted husband and it seems to me that a bachelor ol your age, would conclude that life was not worth liveiuq;, without a dear little Wife to look after your Happiness in sickness and Health with plenty of this world' <» q; cods, to make every- thinq; comfortable / have always been 7isc to plentj' and have an income that keeps me very comfortable, but the Loneliness of this life. I have been of a drij^ hi and Lively disposition and enjoyed Life untill the passed 3 years but now every thing seems faded and life not worth liveing. I cannot enjoy anny thing without some one to share that )m I. i M •. ' If V ■ k 'H: no Two Women in the Klondike Happiness I am rather tall, brown hair, and blue eyes, fond of music and i\\Q /ine Arts ; have studdied both. Now that you have a!i>iost finished readin.i:^ \\\\ letter, I hope you will iijlcd and think kindly of me, and answer this poorly composed and written letter through Friendship and that some day, sonic where we may meet and not be sorry that this letter was written. I can jj^ive the htsl of Referrence VIEW ON THE SHORE OF THE YUKON. and of course expect the same. Thinking you would be pleased to see your picture in the paper, I enclose the same then you can tell me in return if it is really you. I ivish you would send me a Photo — then I will return the compliment. Since July, I have constantly been with my Invalid Mother who has been verrj- ill most of the time and not expected to Live long, as she is 75 years old and one of the vSweete.st in this world and I feel that when her Spirrit leaves that poor ILikv I- z Ui 2 u X z o X 0> z" o 0> < o • I ,/ 'I I' 1 1 Two WoniLii in the Klondike I i\ H old Ihnlv that it will get to that Land of Rest where all i.s Piece and Happiness. If you are pleased with this letter and wish to ansue) I will promise a IJetter one in return Respectfully your true and unknown I-'riend " Mrs. ." Friday, July 29th. As the Leah and the liarge were about to pull out of the harbour this morning, carrying many of our former pas- sengers, J (who had concluded to try Dawson rather than Rampart) said, " Mrs. II , if you 're going to live across the river you '11 want a boat and there 's a man ' going out ' on the I.eah who will sell one for ten dollars." "But I know nothing of boats ; let me wait and consult M ." " You can't," said J , " he 's off mw." The owner then sung out, " You may have it for five," and with a woman's love for a bargain, after a ha.sty glance at the boat, I handed out the money and was very proud to be told afterwards that in this part of the country the lumber alone is worth between twenty and thirty-five dollars, and still more proud that the Joseph was able to hold all our house- hold goods and provisions, weighing over a thousand pounds. We spent the morning at the Custom House, paying about one hundred dollars in duties. Our tent had already been taken across and was being prepared for our reception, but as it weighed over four hundred pounds, we engaged men to put it up carefully, unwilling to impose upon the good nature of our neighbours. Finally everything was cleared, and a kindly, helpful crowd escorted us and our boxes to the Joseph. il , 1 < W ■a. CHAPTER XIII \VK mccoMic S(2Uatti:rs AND now we are squatters on the land staked out by Mr. J and his partner. Our tent attracts the greatest amount of attent'on from each side of the river. Tents, as a general thing, run from eight to perhaps twenty feet — but one this size ! ! ! The h'/oiidikr A'uiixtt wrote of it : " West Dawson is taking metropolitan strides. From this side of the river can be seen a large numi)er of cabins going up, and within a few days has been erected the largest tent in the ■ I. 1.1 o o a o < 0. :i ■;l rn ii8 Two Women in the Klondike 1,^ t '■I » t ' f 1 HI i. ,.j ^ , 'f li f*^'' ' •V ' 1 1''' ' i, >iti!i a M are given in such a way that we cannot offer to pay for them without fear of offencHng tliese kind souls. One of the " boys " tells us that in a tent near by lives an Kn<^lish phy- sician who had the pleasure of meeting K in Yokohama, when her father was consul-general to Japan ; that he wishes to call on her, but has no " boiled shirt " ready, nor ' ' store clothes. ' ' To this we exclaim, ' ' But our visitors must not stand upon ceremony. We find that we must keep to jerseys and short skirts while here, and the men must make no changes i; their costume on our account. We are all roughing it and camping out, some for one purpose and some for another, and we desire to be treated as are others in West Daw.son." In a very .short time the Doctor made his appearance, handsome in his jersey, and and needing no " .store clothes " to .show him to better advantage. How we did enjoy talking over the Orient and those we had known in China and Japan! Thus occupied, the afternoon sped by rapidly. Towards 5 p.m. the tent grows delightfully cool. M appeared with delicious salmon steaks for dinner and we could hardly wait for him to fill the coal-oil stove, .so famished were we. It did not take long to light the fire and to heat some of Van Camp's delicious tomato .soup. This is one of the articles of food we brought in which more than equals our expectations. K also cooked the salmon and heated a tin of corn, all of which we enjoyed more than any feast. E was then allowed a well-de.served re.st, while M and I washed and wiped our aluminum dishes and hung them up on the high weeds. Poor ]\I had been scouring the town all day for a cook but the .search was in vain. " The boys" came and sat in the tent door after dinner, while we had some of our best Criterion music, and it was delightful to see how they enjoyed Lohcni^rin and Tannhauscr, as well as Italian opera and Sou.sa's compositions. All parties break up liere at eleven. vSo at that hour our tent flap was closed, and we followed the directions given to us bj' our neighbours and had a fine night's rest. We put rugs under the hanunocks this time, so that the dampness from the 1 \Vc Become Squatters "9 grouiul slioulcl not rise ; then we made a bag of one pair of Itlankets, stepped into it, and rolled into the other instead of getting into a carefully made bed, and, although the night was quite as cool as the previous one, we slept as warmly and comfortably as if at home. One amusing thing occurred. The fur robe was under IC— — 's hammock, while under mine was placed the jiair of blankets purchased for Ivan, but which we were told he ought not to be allowed to use so early in the season. Hardly had we fallen asleep before the dog 1 1 ! I ill I II :f (. r ; A SLEEPING BAG. recognised his blankets and tried to crawl under my ham- mock in order to take possession of them. As he pushed under on one side, the hammock tipped over on the other and sent me rolling out on the grass, which caused me quite as much merriment as it did E , whose laughter was soon hushed, lest our neighbours should be disturbed. Sunday, July 31st. Another glorious day ! Temperature delightful. While E lighted the fire and heated .some of our tinned stores, I '. i 'ii T 1 20 Two Women in the Klondike I; i -'■ ^'1 I fed and watered the jiifj^eons, parrot, canary, and dog. By the time we had finished breakfast and our few chores, it was too late for church. Some of our neighbours came to invite us to row across in Peterboro canoes, which are considered the safest boats to use against the tremendous current, but we have a deadly fear of anything bearing the name of canoe, so had private services at home. L,uncli hour, and still no cook, although the " boys " are scouring the town in search of one. We cooked a bit of salmon which was brought us from Dawson, heated some titnied vegetables, and, with our appetites, it was a feast. As we were sitting resting and reading at our tent door, who should appear l^ut our shipmates, Mr. R and Dr. D , bringing with them a very handsome fellow named A , who has been in this part of the world .so long that he thinks it would be difficult to live at home again. Hardly had they seated themselves, or rather thrown themselves on the rugs (for we have l)Ut three chairs), when Mr. M and Mr. R joined the party. They had all rowed acro.ss and were hot and thirsty. We remembered a powder which had been prepared for us by our San Francisco chemist, so we mixed it with the cool spring-water, making a delicious cider. As our guests had come to spend the afternoon in the country, we treated them without ceremou}-, and opened a box containing the latest periodicals of all kinds, which they h ' not yet been able to obtain, so that they could enjoy the illustrations as well as conversation. M .spied my man- dolin, atid told me how charmingly R played, and he was right. He drew from it more exquisite nuisic than I had ever heard, even in Italy. Such a restful, peaceful sab- bath ! We also heard the songs of the Salvation Army, as the airs floated across the Yukon to us. We were sorry to tell our guests an rcvoir, but could not feel lonely, as one neighbour after another stopped to see if we needed anything. Mr. O , who is three tents away from us, came to ask if he could row one of us over in the morning. K gladly accepted, as she is to do the shop- ping. O said there were two great causes of excitement ;svt ' ' We Become Sc[iiatters I 21 ' ? ill Dawson, from which town he had just returned. One was the preparations for the departure of the lulla ; the other, the arrival of two of our pigeons, which were (juietly seated on the roof of a low l)uildin<;;, with an admirini:^ crowd about them, as mail}' had not seen pi,>;eons for years, and were reve]lin q: u a. < a. oj u V, I '^i,1^N ',:; .!i • I ,1 1 ' r^ *' 136 Two Women in the Klondike ' i u 1 . II the work to Mr. S . Here I really did have courage to enter a protest, which fortunatelj' was graciously accepted. Visitor number three, Mr. T , who, finding us busy in the depths of yawning trunks, said that he would not disturb us, seated himself in an easy chair at the tent door, and en- joyed the magazines and papers, while we continued our work behind the screen. " Here 's your latest paper," we heard a couple of newsboys crying, as they went from tent to tent, causing quite a little excitement. California daily five- cent papers were freely purchased at one dollar each. We also bought the Dawson Klondike Nugget for fifty cents, for which the small news-vendors told us that they received twenty-five cents connnissi '' on the sale of each paper, showing that even here, the middleman reaps a larger benefit than the pro- ducer, whose expen.ses must be deducted. At noon M— — arrived, bringing with him some veal for luncheon, which he remained to share with us ; we had also some delicious potato balls, made from desiccated potatoes, and macaroni and cheese, in which we were indulging with ravenous appetites when Mrs. B appeared, bringing with her Dr. D , a Presbyterian clergyman. She left him seated with us at table, but not partaking of our food, while she went to prepare the luncheon for which she had in- vited him. The result of this visit was that we promised our tent for religious services next Sunday morning, at eleven o'clock, granting permission for notices to be posted both here and in Dawson proper. In the midst of an inter- esting conversation we heard a voice outside calling, " Din- ner is now ready in the Pullman car," and in this manner Mrs. B informed the clergj'nian that his time was up. " Is it the third and last call ? " we shouted, and upon hear- ing a reply in the affirmative Dr. D bade us an rcvoir. After luncheon we were informed bj^ Isaacs that the pigeon- cote was ready to be lifted to the top of the four poles which he had embedded in the ground before the tent. " Now we '11 see," said he, " how many of your neighbours who 's been a-hoflfering to do heverythink for you will 'elp me up with this 'eavy box. I expect they will all be deaf, dumb, Mi; ii ■!'! Our First Dinner in Dausun 137 and blind when I calls upon them," but he soon discovered his mistake, and the cote was soon high in air near the river bank, giving the Dawsonites and the West Dawsonites an- other novelty to admire. Two good hours it took to drive the pigeons out of the tent, after which the flap had to be closed, as we discovered for the first time how like cats they are in their love for home. Tliis work fnu.shed, it was (juite time to dress for our first dinner in Dawson. We had seen so nuich of showy silk gowns and draggled feathers on the other .side of the river, that we preferred the quiet elegance of a well-made " tailor suit" with " boiled collar " and silk tie. Just before starting, O came to in- form me that the " sick boy " would like to have a little of our Van Camp's soup, so over to his tent I went with it ; found him in good spirits and with a ravenous appetite. He expressed himself as delighted that we were " going to dine with such nice people, and to see something of the better class of life." Just starting again, when Mrs. B came to tell us that she also had an invalid on her hands, who thought he could relish the same soup, a tin of which we gladly gave her. She said, " In this country, one must always take something in return for such a gift ; what shall it be ? " but we were speedily out of .sight and hearing, as we stepped into the boat with Isaacs in the role of boatman, and a powerful one he proved to be, easily rowing it against the tremendous current. Scarcely had we landed when such a 'tremendous shower came down that we ru.shed for protection to the vestibnle of the store of the North American Transportation Companj-, where we found many others seeking shelter. All eyes were on our tent, which we were facing, and the conunents were most amusing, as they wondered whether it belonged to the Salvation Army, a nierrj'-go-round, or circus company, but as a gust of wind sprang up, some one shouted, " Oh, it 's a balloon ! they 're inflating it." As we anxioush' watched it rising and falling with the wind, .someone overhearing our remarks on the subject said, " Does it belong to you two ladies ? Why would n't one half that size 'a' done yer ? Is 1^1 ^i fi f (1 '.i\ ii'J r ill li, 11 ■'if J f' 13^ Two Women in the Klontlikc 1 it vSalvation Army ? " — " No ; hut there are to he services there next vSuiiday morning." — " Free to all ? " — " Most certainly." — " Well, then, we 're a-goin', an' many a hoy who never goes to church '11 come, too, an' plenty o" others who want to see the inside o' that there tent." Just then our host, Mr. M , and his chum R dis- covered our retreat; the rain .stopped, and we were e.scorted to their one-roomed cabin. " I thought you 'd like dining in here, and seeing ju.st how we live, ])etter than going to a restaurant, and so here we are," said M , as we took a high step into the room, gorgeous with a magnificent fnr- rol)e in one corner, a library in the other, in the third an oil- stove and a few kitchen utensils, while facing that was the dining corner used for nuUtifarious purposes. We were at once .seated on empty grocery boxes for chairs at a pine tal)le without a cover, according to the custom of the country. On tin plates liefore us were caviare and sardines on toa.st, which our host had previouslj' prepared. There were two other gue.sts, one of whom handed me an envelope containing a letter of introduction from a son of Judge B , who wrote : " It is a matter of much regret to me, that I am leav- ing here before your arrival, for I had looked forward to the pleasure of meeting you, and thought, moreover, that I might be of some assistance to j-ou. However, I am sure I cannot do better than by introducing my friends of New York. Anything they can do for you and Mi.ss V I am sure they will be most glad to. WMth best wislies for a pleasant sojourn, I am sincerely yours." We were .soon well acquainted, as F and C were college mates of E 's brother, and .she had already heard much of them through him. While we were chatting aiid enjoying the finst course, our host was putting a spoonful of soup stock into each of six tin cups filled with hot water ; he then pa.ssed them to us, say- ing, " Your medicine is now ready to be taken," and very good medicine it was, too. Our host then reached ov^er to a frying-pan on the small stove, stirring with one hand a mess of oysters and cheese, while in the other he held his soup- r 1 m t- O O o z o < Q t-" UI UJ a: t- tn < :i! V^ I'll 4. 1 ! jM: It I fid , ''i n-i ^\ I II l'1 n 140 Two Women in the KU^ndike cup, from which he took an occasional sip. The pan was then lifted from the stove, and its contents distributee! on our tin platters, and provinj,^ to be a most palatable con- coction. M ate with us, heating macaroni and toma- toes at the .same time; and how we enjoyed it all ! After carefully cleaning our plates, we received upon them a bit of mince pie (a great luxury j, which had been nicely divided into six portions, with a tiny .scrap left over, so that no one should l)e rude enough to take the la.st piece, .said M . How we laughed over this novel entertaimnent, and wished for photo- graphs of such an unusual .spectacle as that of college-l)red youths in rough miners' costumes enjoying this repa.st with more pleasure than the finest entertaimnent they could be given at home. We wondered what the different members of our families would liave .said could thej' have had but a. momentary glimpse of the scene. Certainly, no one dining with all the luxury known to civilisation could have enjoyed delicacies of the best market with more appreciation, or had a more delightful feast of reason and flow of soul, than had we in our primitive surroundings, talking .so rapidly that one scarce could wait for the other to finish a sentence. The dinner ended, our host suggested that we must " do the town," adding that there could never be a more auspicious moment than the present, when we had lour such splendid big protectors. So off we started. I was soon hailed bj' a fellow-passenger of the Si. Paul, Mr. J , who called out, " Oh, Mrs. H , do come in a moment and see Mr. P ." — " No, thanks, I 'm standing on ceremony and sha'n't be able to, as Mr. P has not called on me." — " But he 's ill, poor fellow, and has been on his back for a fortnight at least." Down I rushed, and into one of the most luxurious cabins yet visited, where poor P was lying on a couch covered with the usual fur robe. One has such deep sympathy for these ' ' boys ' ' so far away from home, but not from friends, for such evidences of kindness on all sides could scarcely be equalled elsewhere. P seemed reallj' glad to see me, but I could not remain long on account of the friends waiting outside. He promised to let me know u\k vm . Our First Dinner in Dawson 141 if he required anythinj^ that could uot be purchased in town. J tlien called out, " Do take a peep into my cabin oppo- site and see how comfortable it is. Look out for your head ' ' ; but low as that poor head was betit, it was not .sufficiently so for the entrance. J had a mo.st beautiful air-mattress, which he wished to .sell for thirty-five dollars — very cheap for Dawson — but Jv and I have had all we want of such un.satisfactory couches, which are like bicycle tires, liable to be punctured at any time, or to let the air escape and leave one with aching bones in the morning. Again we .started, and again we were stopped by another passenger, Mr. V of \'irginia, and as we were anxious to learn his plans for invading the Koyukuk district there was another delay. We finally reached Main Street, which was as crowded and as light at ten o'clock as any fashionable promenade woidd have been at that hour in the daytime. At each corner we were stopped by greetings from former fellow- passengers, and, finally, by one of the men we had grub- staked, who said: " I 've been trying all day to reach West Dawson to see you on important business, but could get no boat. There is a big stampede to Creek. I 've been out there and located claims for you two ladies, and have done enough work to be certain that the ground is rich, so I 've come in to pack a lot o' grub back, and want all your orders in ca.se you should leave before I git through pro- spectin'. Anyway, when j-ou come back next year you may look for big returns from these mines, even if I don't get to .stake another." The party waited patiently while we listened to these glowing accounts and then rejoined our escorts, quite excited over the brilliant prospect. Our host then proposed that as our beverage at dinner had been water, we should stop at the Hoffman House, which he was anxious to show us, for a liqueur. We were told that this hou.se belonged to " Nigger Jim," who had established it in Daw.son because he had not been able to purchase the hostelry of the same name in New York, which had delighted him more than anything he had seen during his travels. Filled with curiosity, we entered, joined by Mr. M 's ^ I? t i iWii ^''m >■ < ft 1 1 1 IF^ 142 Two Women in the Klondike 'I ' 7'/i>- brother, " as he calls him, to distinguish him from seven other fellows who bear the same relationship. We entered what would seem at home a small room, but which, here, is of unusuall}' good size ; at the end was a stage where five nmsicians played Cavallcn'a Rusticana, as well as I have ever heard it, the violinist being particularly good. At a large table iu the centre sat ' ' Nigger Jim ' ' (whom I have pre- ) ' ii r I I , 11 A DAWSON HOTEL. viously described, and who has the reputation of being " as clean and honest a white man as ever came into this camp"). He was surrounded b\' a dozen of his satellites, men and women, and was entertaining them in the grandest stjde known to Dawson. E and I being the "Chee Charkers " (otherwise known as strangers or people to be preyed upon bj' sharks with wildcat scheme..) attracted general attention. We remained long enough to hear two songs from a man with an exceed- 'l'i« Our First Dinner in Dawson 14: iiigly fine voice, and then were invited to the Combination Company Theatre. Our party had grown to eight, so we felt sufficiently well protected to follow the custom of the country and enter the parquet through the barroom — a pro- ceeding so common here (in fact one has to wade through deep mud to reach the side entrance) that it caused no re- mark. We were then shown up a pair of stairs and told to take our choice of the iinoccupied private boxes ; onlj- four of our escorts could be comfortably acconnnodated, .so we had two boxes, and the men continually changed places with one another. We could see and not be seen, protected as we were by the curtains. We looked down upon a sea of som- breros, not a woman in all the audience, as the boxes are re- served for them and their escorts. We were the only ones who sat with drawn curtains, consequently curiosity was rife. We were more amused bj' watching the occupants of the boxes than with the performance on the stage, which was of the usual variety order, not very refined, with plenty of coarse jokes, but nothing absolutely vulgar. The young lady from the first box left her escort and descended to the stage, and entertained us with a song of a poor little country maid on a visit to town, where the young men made to her man}'- suggestions, to each one of which she sang, " Will it do me any harm ? " in the most innocent way. This so pleased the ' ' boys ' ' in the audience, that they threw an abundance of chips and nuggets on the stage, all of which .she carefullj' picked up, and stowed away — in her stocking. A jealous actress in the next box said in a stage-whisper, " She 'd never get so much money for her voice; it 's all be- cause the ' boys ' like to watch her trick o' stowin' it away." Never before have we seen so many drinks served. Each man in a box is expected to order one each for the entire party ; one dollar apiece is the price, whether lemonade, or something stronger. In a short time E and I had had six glasses of lemonade carried away luitasted. We heard M giving the waiter an order which he seemed reluctant to obey, but finally did as he was told and handed us chips. "What is this for?" said we. "For entertaining the i. ."1 5 , » , ' , '1:1 ■ 1; ^v:i\ I 144 Two Women in the Klondike gentlemen in the boxes," laughed our host, and then with a merry peal of laughter he explained that in thisuew theatre, also, the rule prevailed that if men ordered drinks the lady who inspired the order got a chip which she could afterwards " cash in." The waiter, having formerly been in the employ of our host, whispered to him, " What shall I do with the chips ? "— " Give them to the ladies."—" Oh, Mr. M , I would never dare to offer them to such ladies." Nor could he be persuaded to do so initil M in.sisted upon our carrying away such .souvenirs of the occa.sion. Shortly after, Mr. R and Dr. D appeared and in- sisted upon our gracing their box, to which request our ho.st acceded. We were soon in a loge facing the stage, with two kero.sene lamps between it and our view. After a short .stay there, we were invited into another box, where " Nigger Jim " was introduced. On one thing he prides himself, that of never wearing a coat. He had on a beautiful silk London- made shirt, but a vest covered the greater part of it. As he leaned back against the wall, the " big l)rother " exclaimed, " Don't you .spoil that shirt ; you promised to lend it to me for the i)all to-morrow night." " Why did they give you that name ? " said I, as he seated himself on a three-cornered wooden .stool at my side. " Just listen when he talks," said the " big brother," " and it won't take you long to dis- cover." He entertained me with a bit of his life in London, where, he .said, all the men were bachelors, which saying of his is quoted all over Dawson. He was as courteous and as interesting as any man one could meet. On parting, he asked if he might come to church in the big tent on Sundaj', and when I replied, " Shall be happy to see you then, if not before," he was .so pleased that he forgot his society man- ners, and clapped me on the back, .saying. " Good for you ! I 'm a-coining." The men all looked startled and anxious, as though they expected me to make a scene, but recognis- ing that the man had intended no rudeness, and had .simply forgotten himself, I bade him good-evening, and lett .some of our friends to explain to him that he must be less forget- ful in future. Mi z o 03 < O I-" u 111 □: h- 03 O ■■ 'f ■J y ' It I ' 146 Two Women in the Klondike : t / \% We did not get away just then, as tliijre were others who requested a visit, so we entered another box, where we re- ceived a heart}- welcome, the seats of honour, and, of course, drinks. We listened to the mandolin-playing of one of the prettiest girls I have seen for an age. The men said : " Vou sliould encourage .such a person as that ; beautiful as .she is, .she is about the only virtuous girl in Daw.son ; let us .send for her, that you may speak a few kindly words, which she will greatly appreciate. Besides, you won't have seen this show nor be able to write it up unless you have an interview with Adele." Adele was sent for, and talked and behaved most modestly ; but when the drinks arrived she made a dash for the chips before they could be handed to us, besides stealing some extra ones from the waiter, who begged her to return them .so that he would not be obliged to make them good ; but this thrifty young person had them tightl}' tied up in her handkerchief and no amount of persuasion or argument could induce her to return one. The men excused her by saying, " She knows that you only want to .show them as souv^enirs in New York, and one is sufficient for that, while to her they represent so much cash." The .show over, the benches were quickly taken out and the hall cleared for a dance. We remained to look down upon a waltz and a quadrille, which were eminently proper in ever}' respect. The men told us that this would last until five or six in the morning and that, notwithstanding the drinks which would follow each dance, it would be no more noisy at the termination than in the l)eginning of the even- ing. We had instructed Isaacs to wait for us at the Alaska Connnercial Company's wharf, but .saw him among the dancers. Ju.st as we were pointing him out, so that one of our escorts might go and fetch him, " Nigger Jim " appeared and said, " What ! you don't mean to .say that 's your cook ! Why, he 's the grave-robber," and then told us such blood- curdling stories of incidents in his career that we were filled with dread, and glad when we reached the landing-place to find that he had not materialised, al.so delig'ated to accept the offer of M and R to row us across in a Peterboro' ll^^A *, Our First Dinner in Dawson 147 canoe, although I had solemnly sworn never on any account to put foot in a canoe. vSeated, however, in the very l)ottoni of it on the coats of the men who rowed us, all alarm faded away, even when we were in the midst of the powerful current. We found our tent almost collapsed from wind and rain, but it is always easy to find a dry place, owing to its enor- mous .size ; .still, it is aggravating in the extreme to look at the Catholic church tent opposite, tight as a drum and beau- tifully put up, and compare it with the one put up by a so- called fir.st-class workman at fifteen dollars a day. The tent-maker had written most elaborate and detailed in- structions, so that even in the Yukon he might be proud of his work, and begged us to have it so well arranged as to do him credit. But here it stands waving, swaying, swelling, dropping with the different light winds which take it in charge, looking a most slovenly affair, and criticised by people on both sides of the river. We have been in it a whole week now, and the man who put it up, though sent for many times, has not had pride enough, or a sufficientlj^ keen sense of honour to come to our rescue ; so we emptied again the jelly-bags of water and " turned in." Just as we had fallen asleep, we heard a voice outside the tent saying, " I 've come to explain." — " All right, Isaacs, you may ex- plain in the morning." — " But I was at the wharf on time only to find that someone had borrowed our boat and have been searching for it ever since." — " Very well, good-night ; you may go to your tent, and need not come early in the morning, as it is now very late." — " All right, mum, good- night." There were .so many .slack places in tlie canvas around and above us that the air came in on all .sides and we nearly froze to death, although we were covered with as many wraps as we could bear the weight of. The extremes are very great. An icy coldness during the night and in- tense heat about the noon hour, so powerful are the rays of the sun, and yet we are told that one never takes cold here. ,r M I : I I' ', I 148 Two Women in the Klondike I ' ,1! I' I /I ( ii M, '"'■■III U Thursday, August 4tli. Nine o'clock and no Isaacs ; ten, ditto ; at half-past ten he made his appearance and when he found us already at break- fast said, " Why, I thought you ladies wanted to sleep late, and so I did n't dare to come before." Scarcely had we finished when Mrs. B and Mr. T came to spend the morning, and laughed most heartily over our experiences of the previous evening. Mrs. B said, " That is just such a trip as I ought to take for my newspaper work, but, being alone, never have had the courage to do so ; j-ou nuist let me go with you should you ever do the town again." We faith- fully promised, although not expecting to repeat the expedi- tion ; at least, not more than once before our departure, and not even then, unless there should be something new and particularly worthy of record. When we told triumphantly about the checks we had received our guests looked at each other and Mr. T said, " I see you ladies do not recog- nise the meaning of manj^ things, and treat all experiences in this part of the world as a huge joke ; be careful that this be not misinterpreted, as tho.se you meet may not understand you as we do." While deeply appreciating this kindly ad- vice, we felt, however, quite certain that no action of ours could be misinterpreted. As Isaacs left the tent on an errand, Mr. T observed, " You did not get your man Friday very early this morning, and might have had him an hour later still, had it not been for the fact that when I heard him .shout from his tent (which adjoins mine), at eight o'clock to know the time, again at nine, and again at ten, each time rolling over for another vSnooze, I called out to one of my neighbours, " I hear the ladies in the big tent are looking for another cook." There was a great scrambling, and, instantly after, the head of your major-domo appeared, saying, ' What 's that about the big tent?' ' Oh, nothing,' I carelessly replied; but the effect was that desired." After luncheon ]\I appeared. " Well, I heard about you last night," said he. " What ? " — " Oh, that yott were invited to occupy every box in the Combination Company." Shortly after came another :i 111 'II X J- '^^^, \ 1 ' ' 'i 1 1 m\ ■ 1 ISO Two Women in the Klondike guest, saying, " What a sensation you two ladies made last night; can't helji it if you were hehiii.l curtains all the time. ]'!• Then came from across the river T)r. D- ', I I ' LmI:'* I m ' M )' / 1 i 1 II I !■ -, to tell us that he was soon to leave for the Koyukuk ; of his brilliant pro- spects ; the congenial society in the party, and to beg us to call on his wife on our return, and give her details which no letter can supply. Another visit from Mrs. B , who ex- pressed nuich astonishment that we .should have been in- ho.spital)le to .so good a member of the tribe as the Indian who had recently honoured us. vShe told us of the country ai)out the Tanana, for which she is .soon to depart, where there are .said to be cannibals, and that there is a reward of forty thousand dollars for anyone who penetrates the region, as some of our worst criminals are in hiding there. She has been oflTered the a.ssistance and escort of the mar.shal or police representatives, but considers that would be but an impedi- ment, as .she can do much better work alone. The only thing she dreads is l)eing deserted in an unknown country by her guides, but she added, " I can feel instinctivelj- when they are afraid to go farther, and when there is no doubt of their intention, if I can get the drop on them first, I shonld not hesitate to kill them and feed them to my dogs." We requested her to tell the Doctor of her trip through the rapids, when her guide shouted to her, " Paddle for your life; there 's only a sixteenth of an inch between us and h ." At two o'clock Mrs. B took us over to Dawson to pur- chase a miner's certificate. Mr. T very kindly placed him.self and boat at our disposal, and we called upon Isaacs to help paddle and carr}- our parcels. A Peterl)oro' canoe, which I had vowed never to enter, now seems most enjoy- able, although I do not dare to u.se the .seats, feeling nuich safer in the bottom of the boat. Dr. C met us at the landing and accompanied us to interview the man who put up the tent. He .seemed horrified to know of all the trouble and anxiety we had undergone, and said that no message had ever i)een given him until the previous day, when he had inunediately promised to rectify the matter ; would leave his work then and there, find his partner, and attend to it, even should it take all night. From there we Wc Become " Free Miners " OJ went to the other ciul of town, where we took out a tinner's certificate at ten dollars, which read as follows : Dak of issue. Dominion ok Canada, Free Miner's Certificate Place of issue Dawson. Non-transferable. Valid for one year only. This is to C}';rtii'y that Mivy /:. Hilchcoek of Dawson has paid me this day the sum of ten dollars and is entitled to all the rights and privileges of a Free Miner under any Mining Regulations of the Government of Canada for one year from the 5th day of August, iSg.S. This certificate shall also grant to the holder thereof the privilege of Fishing and vShooting, suiyect to the provisions of any Act which has been passed or which may hereafter be passed for the pro- tection of game and fish ; also the privilege of cutting Timber for actual necessities, for building houses, ])oats, and for gen- eral mining operations ; such timber, however, to be for the exclusive use of the miner himself, but such permission shall not extend to timber which may have been heretofore, or which may hereafter be granted to other persons or corpor- ations. Countersigned, Thomas Fawcett. To be countersigned by the Gold Commissioner, Mining Recorder, or by an Officer or Agent of the Department of the Interior. J AS. A. Smart, Deputy of the Minister of the Interior. While waiting for the certificate the following notice pasted on the wall attracted our attention : •V I !5 TT 'I A I lir III 154 Two Women in the Klondike I / ilH MININO RIvCORDIvR'S OmCK, Da'ii'son, Jnuc if. — ijS NOTICK Know all mens by this present. ... I am interested in one half of the claim No. 3:3 thirty-two below low clis- co\'ery on Dominion. I do not accept, no bargain, no compromission of my half undivided interest. Josic Darole. Mrs. B introduced us to the two young ladies in the office of the connni.ssioners, who told us how nuich we had missed by not attending the church festival of the pre- vious evening. Mr. F , who was holding court, left long enough to come down-stairs and l)e presented to us as the widow of Admiral ( ! ) H and the grandniece of Presi- dent Van B , The interview was pleasant, though exceed- ing short, as the court was waiting. From there we went to the office of Mr. W , the Crown Timber Agent, as Mrs. B thought it ver}' important that we should know and be properly introduced to the officials before starting on our claim hunting. Our next visit was to our Consul, on official bu.siness. There we were joined by Mr. R and Dr. D , and the Consul opened a bottle of " sherry," which we had to drink from tin cups. As he offered me water for the " sherry," my suspicions were aroused and I tasted it warily, only to find it was old Bourbon, which I politely but firmly declined. We did a little shoi)ping at the Alaska Commercial Com- pany's warehouse, which is headquarters for everyone in town, where we chatted with a dozen or more acquaintances. On going out we saw the utter collapse of our tent. Dr. C at once offered to row K across the Yukon, Lsaacs assisting, while I went on with Mrs. B to keep an ap- pointment with one of the Si.sters at the hospital, stopping to inquire for the mail, which arrived yesterday, (Thursday), but which will not be readj- for distribution before Monday ! The reception-room of the ho.spital is the most comfortable, I \ Wc laconic " l-rcc Miners .■^.■> lioinclike spot yet visited, with its stovi.', carpet, curtains, desk, and yvr^/ chairs. Father j^reeted us most cordially, and sunt for .Sister . who had been at St. Josephs, in \'ictoria, H. C, and who i^ave nie pleasant news from the dear .Sisters there. A t the wharf we found I.saacs, i)nt no boat ; someone had bor- rowed it, and there was none for ns to hire. After aiiplying to a youn^ man in a fine- looking I'eterboro' and bein*; courteously but decidedly refu.sed on the <;rouud that the bt)at belon<^ed to an oflicial, Mrs. U asked as one having Masonic rights, and before we had time to breathe the boat was ours. On reaching the other side, what a sight met our gaze ! I felt as one who had been evicted for n o n - pa y m e n t of rent. Our tent was flat on the ground, our furniture and house- hold goods, books, magazines, nuisic, even my beloved diarj', were .scattered all over the ground, while the tww car- penters, aided bj' our kindly ueighbours, were pulling at the tent, ropes, and tackle with all their force. Plaviug break- fasted at ten or later, we had gone to town without luncheon, con.sequently were in a starving condition. Our neighljours invited us to partake of their hospitality, but as each one has a limited supply of provisions, we felt some delicacy INDIAN WOMAN OF THE KLONDIKE. ^ 156 Two Women in the Klondike >r ; ' H A'k .'J.; ! about accepting, and .said tli.it our tent would be ready in a few moments. Mrs. B^ — proposed that while waiting we .should walk over to vSheep Camp to have a look at some fur robes which were offered ibr sale, — one at one hundred dol- lars, the other at eighty-five dollars, — as the man who had them was " going out," and had never used them. Tlii.s nece.s.sitated a tramp to a point farther than I had ever ex- plored on our " island," along the edge of the water. We passed dozens of tents from which we received kind'y salu- tations, reached the small chicken farm, and beyond that a place where cattle had been killed ; making a detour we ap- proached a good-sized pen filled with sheep. Still on, pas.s- ing an occa.sional cabin, until we entered a clearing in which were comfortable quarters. In the open aii, at a rough table, partaking of their even- ing meal, sat three men in .shirt-.sleeves. They ro.se as we approached and cordially welcomed l\Irs. B , who intro- duced me as the owner of the big tent, a globe-trotter who had been many times around the world, and was now in search of new experiences. " I hardly suppose so grand a lady would condescend to take supper with rough butchers," said the spoke.sman ; " but it would be a great pleasure." " Condescend ! why, I 'in .simply starving ; my tent 'sdown, .so I can get nothing to eat for an hour at least, and if you had not invited me, I should have asked myself, or have stolen .something that smells so good." This little -^eech so pleased the miners, that they gave me the best .seat v. . che bench. One helped me to salmon, another to bread, and the third to fried potatoes filled with onions, and though the latter have always been avoided by me they were now eaten with hearty relish, and never A"as a meal more thoroughly enjoj-ed. The men apologised again and again for having no l)Utter, and offered to cook us a bit of moose-steak ; they could hardly understand that we preferred fimiing them and their meal just as we did. We a.sked for a leg of mutton and .some brains, which latter cost one dollar apiece, but they were not able to fill our order until ne.xt week. They in- siiL id, however, on our .aking as a small souvenir a package 'i^? We Become "Free Miners" 157 of slieep's tongues and a couple of l)rains each. Then we asked to see the fur robes, but the lowest price for me was two hundred and fift}- dollars for the two, a l)eautiful lynx rol^e and a wolf robe. " Win* should j-ou ask Mrs. V> one hundred and eighty-five dollars and me two hundred and fifty dollars ? ' ' queried I. " We told Mrs. B that we paid one hundred dollars for one and eighty-five dollars for the other, and she did not add to that freight at twelve cents a pound, and the profit that one naturally expects from such an investment," said the honest butcher. " I can sell the l3'nx to-morrow for two hundred dollars, and in the winter it will bring three hundred dollars, but I don't care to keep and bother with them, as I 'm ' going out.' ' After much argument, as he was unwilling to deduct one iota from his price, he agreed to bring them over for E 's inspection, which would give me an opportunity for consulting the fur experts who were raising our tent. On our return our friends carefully examined the robes, thought one particu- larly fine, but advised us to see first what we could do in town, so my friend: the butchers offered to leave them with us until we had tried them and examined others. Now I know why they are so highly recommended for use here, as never have I had anything ,so perfect in which to sleep ; no shivering, no icy, penetrating wind, no fear of rheumatic pains. To roll up in a lynxskin makes the couch soft and downy, and keeps one so warm and " comfy," that it seems, like being once more among home luxuries. 10 P.M., and everyone is .still working at this mammoth tent. Our neighbour, Mrs. T , insisted upon K 's sharing her supper with her, and invited me also so cordially that to accept a bit of nice hot buttered toast was the least I could do, while Mrs. B exclaimed, " I 'm jealous, as you refu.sed to dine with me." The pigeons are causin-;; t!ie greatest amount of trouble. Al- though the cote is filled witii .seed, the bag of grain and water on top of their boxes, and everything arranged to tempt them, nothing will induce them to leave the tent ; they were driven out of it only to rerppear on the top, and * ' ' 1 > , 1' I I III ' li if i,i\ I ■^■j <■'( iti ^Tfl V. 158 Two Women in the Klondike \i : I f M there they sat cHngiiis to the ridge, refusing to fly. As the tent was lifted and lowered, they were off one moment to he back the next, and, finally, as it was graduallj' tightened into place, and someone stood at the door to keep them away while the furniture was being brought in, down they came through the small hole through which the poles pass, light- ing on everything— beds, blankets, music-box, even on the stove. A few were caught and held prisoners in the cote by a curtain which was tacked up, but the others fought hard to remain, and remain they did, nnich to our disgust, as they are now so tame that they light on the bed in the morning to beg for food. Such a scene of destruction I — the shelves down, kitchen utensils on the ground, ribbons, ties, toilet-articles, no end of small things trampled under foot, and our beautiful tent badly torn in two places ! To say that we were discouraged puts it very mildly, particularly after being told that to make the tent perfect, and so that it would not leak, we should be obliged to purchase, or have made, tackle and rings, and have the entire thing dropped again with the same moving out of furniture. As we expect to " go out "in about three weeks, we decided to accept the situation and get along as best we can. Some of our hard-working assistants remained to par- take of a little beef-soup, a bit of salmon, some potatoes, and cake. Satunlny, Au<;ust 6th. Trying to make order out of havoc is an unpleasant task with the mercury at 8o\ but we close tightly our tent llap, so that those whom we should otherwise be glad to see may think us still in the arms of Morpheus, and work with a will. Isaacs, busily engaged in once more putting up kitchen shelves and utensils, looks for newspapers with which to cover them. Holiliug out one he asks, " 'Ave you read this, mum?" and then exclaims, " 'Oly Mo.ses, May 30th 1 'ave you been on the road ever since then ? Well " (sympatheti- cally), " I should think you 7^v///(/ be tired." " May we come in ? " said the voice of John Jones, " I want to make you acquainted with Mr. M ," and one of the great men « J ' .' I' i'n Hi 1 ij f ' ' , ' : I 1 ). -1 ■ •■ if / j'll H I I i6o Two Women in the Klondike of the Klondike entered, was made welcome, and remained for an hour or more, telling stories so interesting that we deeply regretted when it was time for him to take his de- parture. John Jones said, " I was tellin' Mr. M as how j'ou ladies was .so very kind to me whiles I was ill, and as how you wanted to .see a ' clean-up,' and pan .some gold your- self ; so he is going Monday to one of his mines and has come to invite you to go with him." — " Just what we 've longed to do, but \\e never expected to have so fine an opportunity. Please explain the road, however, so that we may judge whether we are capable of such an undertaking. ' ' " My plan is to .start Monday between noon and four o'clock," .said 'SI , " go over the trail two miles to the ferry, cross the Klondike River, and land at the mouth of Bonanza ; there Miss V may take a horse, and if you can walk three miles an hour that will be a sufficiently rapid gait ; after twelve miles we reach the Grand Forks Hotel, Bonanza. You will find it very rough ; the men are only screened off from the ladies, but you can re.st assured that every man would defend you with his life in case of need." " Oh, I intend to take my tent along for the ladies," said John, " it 's ju.st big enough for the two of them and they '11 be nuich more comfortable than shut in with us men." " The next morning," contiiuied M , " we '11 take a .short walk before breakfast down to .some mines verj' near there and see a clean-up, and you can pan out your first gold ; later in the day we '11 go to B 's clean-up, from there to my claim at El Dorado, only three miles ; then to another claim of mine at El Dorado, which yields prett)- good-sized nuggets. You know ten claims make a mile, so you can easily tell how nutcli you will have to walk there ; there are some bench claims near that have not been located, so that you and Miss V — — can stake them (now that you have your miner's licence), and return to the Forks that night, unless you care to go on and stake on Dominion and Sulphur." We were filled with delight and excitement at the pro.spect, particu- larly as the rain had prevented us from going on the first stampede, not that we minded the rain, but it made the !1 ! ■•'' i ill- t 'Mil We Become "Free Miners" i6i ground in such a condition that. told us his horse sank to its neck in mud. On IC 's return from Dawson she said that someone liad told her he had seen many letters for us, but that it would be impossible to get them for several days, as we nuist wait until everything had been sorted. Mr. T made us a short visit to inquire if our tent were in a satisfactory condition ; then came Mr. J — — , bringing us a wood-stove, saying that we really ought to have it, even if we were obliged to cut a hole in the tent for a stove-pipe. '' Well, how 's the tent to-day ? " called out the man who was doing his best to make a ])ad job good. " Me and my partner came over to give it another stretch." " Why, I saw you going over the Rapids," said Mrs. B to the partner ; " how soon did you get over? " " Oh, I had a hard time and many experiences," replied he. " The first night, as I was tramping an' it was kinder dark, a man riz up from behind a pile o' logs and had the drop on me, but, after he 'd talked with me and found out how honest I was, he put down his gun and tole me he was a-layin' for ■? man what had broken into three different caches and stole a lot o' stuff, an' says he, ' I 'd give twenty-five dollars to get the stuff back, an' another twenty-five on top o' that to get a licence to shoot him, an' as I can't get it I 'm goin' to .shoot him anyhow.' Yes, inarm, I 'ma Canadian, an' I ain't proud of it when I sees the taxes for every durned thing they 're a-puttin' on poor miners what works for a livin' in a country very few of the officials would go to, and risk git- tin' frozen feet, legs, and arms, or being frozen to death ; then I tell you, marm, I 'm ashamed o' bein' a Canadian, but I must get on with my job. Ladies, we 're a-goin' to keep this tent tight if we have to stretch it every night in the week, an' it sha'n't cost you a penny besides the original price agreed upon, cause we want it right, an' it would 'a' "been right if that there secretary, or whatever he is, of yours had given us the instructions an' told us to go by them, just as you wanted us to do ; but now he 's lost the instructions and we 've got to do the best we can." ,; I ,' 1 i » I \- 162 Two Women in the Klondike I ' 'M ' (' ]'^}i i';'i- m ..I ' , I , 1 I. Ivan and I went for a short walk on " our island " after a nine o'clock dinner. The first thing which attracted ni}' attention was a notice tacked on the dove-cote that had been placed there by the Rev. Dr. D — — : " Presbyterian Church. " Sunday .service in the large tent at 11 a.m. " Kveryone cordiallj- invited." Our walk was a .short one. As we reached the spring, whicli prevented nie from crossing, and whicli is the bound- ary line, Mr. T — • — called out, " Were j'ou looking for me ? This is my tent, the first one on this side of the spring. All riglit, if I can be of no service to you I '11 go in and cook my supper." Two miners hailed me from another tent with, " Excuse me, marm, l)ut nmst we dress up to come to church to morrow ? If .so, we shall not l)e ai)le to at- tend service, cause our dress suits are in our other trunk." We all laughed at the joke, as few have trunks, and they seemed relieved to hear, " We are all to attend in our jer.seys — no boiled shirts or collars." Mrs. T then came to the door of her tent saying, " I hear you are going with M and Jones to locate claims and see some clean-ups ; they took Mrs. H and me last time ; it is the most wonderful experience imaginable, and we enjoyed it .so nuich that I 'm wild to go again. People at home could never understand the wonders of it." Just then we were joined by Mr. O , who presented a Mr. H , and another Klondike millionaire .stood before us, with a dazzling diamond on his shirt-front, and another of enormous size on his finger. After a few moments' chat, Jklrs. B called out that .she was coming to pay us another visit, and so I returned. " It 's a pity to bore you .so often," said .she, " but I feel so lonely and homesick to-day that I can't stay bj- myself, and thought perhaps you 'd give me a little nuisic. Seeing you and talking of home has quite un- nep'ed me. I don't mind when I 'm among the Apaches — then I enjoy their wild life, and forget homesickness." im.':i Wc Become Free Miners 163 " May we come in ? " said Mr. O , entering with Mr. H , the Dane. " Yon are just in time to help us select the airs to he played for church service to-morrow. It is too dark to read this fine writini?, so we must try them all. The committee listened, selectin<^ The I^ost Chord, Nearer My God to Thee, and Portuo;uese Hymn, hut Mr. H was ruled out as he pleaded for Strauss's lilne Danube. He told us that he left Denmark many years ago and never has had a home- •sick day ; but he expects to "go out" this year. After they left, Mrs. B remained until midnight, and as the moon's rays came througli the open door of the tent and we listened to her thrilling experiences, time was forgotten, also the cold chills of night, as we wondered at the daring courage of one lone woman. I forgot to say that early in the evening one of my butcher friends arrived bringing me a small leg of mutton, for which he asked the modest .sum of eight dollars. This is prolxibly not very high for Klondike prices. On .seeing a mirror he exclaimed, " Oh, do let me look in that. I have n't .seen one for years." After a long glance, he said with a .sigh, " As ugly as ever ! My own wife would n't know me with this beard." Sunday, Aujjust jtb. When Isaacs arrived this morning, he brought us the news that many of the " boys " wanted to come to service but did not dare — lest they should meet some of our " city friends " in store clothes, .so we instructed him to make the rounds and say that all had been recjuested to wear jerseys, women as well as men. Shortly after we heard, to our horror, the loud ringing of a cow-bell, and a voice crying " Church, church — no collection and no drcss-up. Mind and don't be late ; service in half an hour. No collection." It was too late to stop our zealous a.ssi.stant, who returned with the bell behind his back and slipped in the back door. We threw our shawls and robes on the gra.ss, and placed the three steamer-chairs, .some empty boxes, and a few benches made by our Jack-of-all-trades. The British and American flags \ ' A \ n ;i,f iij. [A y>. 1.0 I.I 1.25 LS 112.5 lllitt |||||22 142 12.0 LA. ill 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 \ ^^ l\ \ ^9) .V 6^ ^■^"l^.^ % V 11 W MP \ w- ^ L\ ^ i68 Two Women in the Klondike fS, ■»', :■;!' it; • ) I if paring anything else for this hexcursion ; it '11 give me pleasure if you '11 just sit down and go on with your writin' an' leave everything to me, an' not look up for 'alf an hour, an' then you '11 be surprised to find out what an 'andy fellow Isaacs is, an' Isaacs won't interrupt you again, be- cause 'e knows you don't like to 'ear conversation when you 're a-writin'." Five minutes later. " I often thinks, that there 's a great deal in inheritance," continued the irrepressible. " Now me mother was very tasty, an' me father was an R.A., that means member o' the Royal Hacademy, an' as for me, why I just rose from shop-boj' to window-dresser because I had so much taste," and Isaacs, fastened a picture here and put a decoration there on the screens about the tent. " Yer like to lost me yesterday. Missus ; 5'er see, while I was on the other side, in Dawson, I sees an Indian in 'is birch canoe, so says I to myself, ' Now Isaacs, 'ere 's your chaiice ; yer likely to get in a tight place some o' these days, when yer 'U want ter knew 'ow to manage a birch-bark canoe ; because it 's like riding a bicycle, yer know, marni, it do take a long while to learn how to balance yourself, so I got the Hindian to let me try it, and, by Jove! I did it without any trouble or helse you would n't 'a' 'ad the good fortune to 'a' got your Hisaacs back.'" We lunched hurriedly, after which the neighbours came to inquire what they could do for our pets during our ab- sence. Mrs. T kindly offered to care for them, and to take charge of the tent. Jones had a boat in waiting at the foot of the bank. Isaacs carried the pack, consisting of fur robes, blankets, flannel wrappers, and toilet articles. We were soon across the Yukon, where we were met by " Big A ." E went to purchase a cowboy hat for the trip, and Isaacs a harness for his back, so we appointed the usual place of rendezvous, the Alaska Commercial Com- pany's stores, from which point we were to be ready for the start in half an hour. Many of our friends were there to help E on tc the horse and to see the start. " No horse for me," .said I; "walking is far more enjoyable." So i < ?' m ' n / o Q < O o \\ \ >11 I i ' , V I t n ' i I u 1 P I TF I/O Two Women in the Klondike '3 K rode alotie in her glory, while M , Jones, and I tramped by the side of the horse when the road was suffi- ciently wide, or single file, with Isaacs in harness bringing up the rear. At first, it was a gradual ascent on a good road ; we were soon high on the hills back of Dawson, and were astonished to see so many log houses, while many more were being built. After a long tramp, we reached a bridge :iBl I'l A { 1/6 Two Women in the Klondike and a board on the oilier. It was wide enough to bunk four men. Our man Friday had thrown E "s blankets acro.ss the boughs for us to sleep on, and my fur robe to cover us. Fortunately we had brought our down cushions which .served as pillows. I was awakened some time during the night by hearing E say, " What is the cause of this intrusion ? " and there at the tent door with his face clearly showing in the moon- light, stood the startling apparition of a man. Had I caught sight of him first, my shrieks would probably have aroused the people on either side of the river, but, hearing E 's low, firm voice, I listened quietly as the stranger replied : " This is my tent ; I have just come in from the trail and was not aware that it was occupied ; but now that I am here should like my blankets, and will leave you u.nlisturbed if you will kindly throw them out." " They were taken to M 's," said E , " where they told me there was a bunk for you should you return." " Which M ? " said the intruder, Init we could give him no further information, and left him to discover for himself. i^:^ W;' I I :i\' I i i|.>( Wednesday, August loth. This morning my poor blistered heel was so inflamed and bleeding that I dared not put on a boot, so slipped into a wrapper, made my toilet, and decided, to my intense disap- pointment, that there was nothing for it but to give that foot at least a day's rest. So E went alone to M 's, where we had been a.sked to breakfast. No sooner had the news of my crippled state reached them than our host and Mr. Jones immediately appeared at the door and agreed that it woidd be folly for me to move. M had already visited one of his claims and had a bag of gold on his shoulder a'most too heavy for even so large a man as he to stagger under. He was about to go back on business to the Forks when he met his men coming in seach of him. Jones and E went on to see a " clean-up" at No. — , and were then going to No. — , where the gold ran from two to three hundred dollars to the pan. This is so marvellous LA \ul^ Visiting Mines with a Klondike King 177 that they did not wish us to take it on faith, Imt to see for ourselves. How I groaned as they started off without me, and felt itidij^nant that so small a thing as a pebble in the boot could have worked such damage. Isaacs soon made his appearance to get orders for the day, but before they could be given his glib tongue began its usual monologue. " Well, marm, I 'm glad you 've seen '1 11 ONE PAN IN A RICH MINE. me as I am, and not as a galley-slave. Everyone knows me all along the road, and heven M 'as n't got more friends. Did you just see them a-callin' of me on all sides, mum ? One made me take off my old wet shoes and put on this fine pair of rubber boots ; another stopped me to give me a cup o' coffee ; an' right there at that place where you saw the 'oss tied up, you might 'a' wondered whatever 'ad become o' me, but Isaacs 's always all right ; a friend 'ad stopped me to give me such a good dinner as I 've not 'ad the likes o' for I 17^ Two Women in the Klondike ^ .1 .' i,:-ii/ ■ I t •'I many :i diy ! We 'ad fresh meat, iiiarni, /// who 's only 'ad a flapjack for 'is breakfast. You see yester- day I lent a 'elpin' 'and so often to the missus that she could n't 'elp haskin me to dinner ; carried water for her, chopped wood, and made myself as useful as a man can to a. woman, an' that beef she gave me — well, I ain't sayin' any- think, but that 's the fi'.'^st I 've tasted for a long time, an' I 'm goin to fix some just like it for you two ladies as soon as we get back." Our first stopping-place, after bidding farewell to the hospitable M s and inviting them to visit us in West Dawson, was at the B s' comfortalile calkin with its car- pet, rocking-chairs and homelike appearance. We were welcomed by Mr. and Mrs. B and Mrs. B 's sister. Mrs. B showed us a tin box filled with hundreds of nuggets from their mine. She was able to tell them all apart, their weight, and when and where found. Her sister also had a fine collection, but said that patniing was such hard work that she did not do it very often, even though it meant extra nuggets. We next went on to Bonanza No. — , where Mr. M told us we might have all the gold we could pan out ; but as they had just had a clean-up and my first efforts were not successful, M finished his business with the overseer and said, "Let us go over to Skookum Gulch and there we '11 find some nuggets." So, leaving E and Jones dig- ging, surrounded by the honest miners who were helping them in their search, we went over sluice-boxes and crossed narrow ledges down into Skookum Gulch, No. — , where F welcomed us and said, " Had you only come yesterday I could have helped you to find .some beauties." However, we crawled under the sluice-boxes, and on hands and knees *ill I Visiting Mines with a Klondike King 185 we chipped away until two big nuggets fell into nij- hands ; then we filled a pan, took it over to the water-box, and the excitement began as the stones and gravel washed out and the colours began to show. More shaking of the pan, and the colours became clearer, until at length the small stones fell out and only nuggets remained. These were dropped into my handkerchief in accordance with the custom here, that the best the mine affords is scarcely sufficient to do honour to woman, so highly is she appreciated where she so rarely appears. E and Jones soon joined us and E washed out a pan, after which, as M was obliged to re- turn to the Forks and visit the clean-ups from his other mines, we parted company, thanking him again and again for his kindness and for the wonderful experiences he had given us. He recommended us to the care of honest John Jones, and well did he fulfil the charge. We had sent Isaacs ahead with the horse and pack, telling him to meet us at the Half-way House, but, as that was eight miles distant and E had not much confidence in her ability to walk it, Isaacs was told to li.sten for our j'odel and not to keep too far ahead of us, on the horse trail opposite. How the trail changed ! Sometimes the ground was hard and dry, then suddenly would appear a marsh in which our feet would sink beyond the ankle, and so extensive that, peer as we would, not a sign could be seen of the trail be- yond ; we would wade through the marsh, carefully picking our steps for fear of disappearing entirely from view ; then we would suddenlj' come upon one of tho.se beautiful mossy, spongy carpets of such glorious colours of pale grey, green, and red that it looked as though prepared for a dance of the fairies. How we longed to get an adequate photograph of such exquisite beauty that no pen can picture ! On we tramped over this most delicate of carpets, on which the foot rests but leaves no impress, and, just as we were in despair at the thought of having lost the trail, it would loom plainly and clearly before us again, well trodden and unmistakable. About 8 P.M. we reached the junction of the two roads and gladly seated ourselves on the bench under the tent 'i 1 86 Two Women in the Klondike for supper. Two men stopped to have lemonade, and were charged fifty cents a glass. Before starting again Isaacs took off H 's muck-a-lucks and filled them once more with fresh straw to protect the soles of her feet fioui being cut hj* the sharp stones which we sometimes encoun- tered. E was still doubtful as to whether she could make the Half-way House, so Isaacs went on with the same instructions to listen for the yodel, which would mean that he must pitch the tent for the night. We were both anxious not to give up, as it would have meant that the men must spend the night in the open air without blankets, although men in this part of the world are not unaccustomed to that hardship, as evidenced by the many sound sleepers over whom we almost stumbled, so near to the trail were they lying. Finally, it became almost too dark to see the way, as, at this time of year, one has really a few hours without sun or moon. Now came the bridges ; not wide ones with a railing, but a log of wood, which sometimes rolled over as we stepped upon it, laid across a dashing torrent without any support. Poor John Jones was obliged to cross it first with E , then return for me, and how we did cling to his hand! At last we were really oif the trail, and, search as we would, no trace of it could be discovered. We were almost ready to weep with fatigue, but knew that we must keep up our spirits and not depress or discourage the man who, although so ill and faint himself that he could scarcely walk, still bravely led on. Finally we sat down to rest while honest John went on a voyage of discovery, but when he returned he had found ii; no sign of a trail. Suddenly we heard a sound in the dis- tance and walked towards it until we reached a mine where men were still working. They told us that we must either '. retrace our steps for a mile, or try the perilous task of climb- , ing the rocks and stones that had been thrown up from the J mine, leaving the deep cavern beneath. We decided upon ' ' the latter counse, rather than go back. In fear and trembling • - we began to crawl over the pointed mass of rolling stones, ! carefully testing each step before daring to trust to it. Slip- ! Visiting Mines with a Klondike King 187 ping, sliding, clutchingfor Jones's ever-ready hand, it seemed hours before we reached the bridge and tried the dashing water with our sticks to probe the Jep':h before we dared put foot upon the log. During the entire trip we had said to each obstacle, " So long as we do not sink above the knee it does n't matter," but here, although Jones did all in his power to steady us, the log rolled and the water rushed into our boots as we went up to our hips and were pulled out on shore. Poor John was in great distress at the accident, but we as.sured him that it had cooled our burning feet deliciously, and that, as no one ever takes cold in this country, theie was no harm done. But still he worried, feeling himself to blame, and all we could say did not restore his spirits. Then came a long stretch of woods and bog, and as there was nothing to light us on our way, I began to sing. Lead Kindly Light, lead lliou me on. Just then we stumbled over a sleeping man. As he sat up I began to apologise, whereupon he said, " Don't make no excuses, lady ; I 'd be willing to be woke up every night to hear Lead Ki^idly Light sung b}' a lady." We next passed a cabin, and a voice called out, " What time is it? How good it is to hear a lady sing " ; but E said she was so weary that song made her nervous, and so we continued our tramp in silence. Soon we saw bright lights ahead and rejoiced that the hotel was so near. With quickened step we approached, only to find an enormous bonfire around which were seated about twenty men. At home we should have thought of tramps, and have made an enormous detour, at sight of the big slouch hats and unknown faces at so late an hour; but, being in Alaska among men whose hearts seem to rejoice at sight of a woman, we merely passed the time of night and inquired " How far to the Half-way House ? " " Only a mile," they replied, and E groaned, saying that her feet felt as though they had been bastinadoed, and that each step was agon\-. Another mile of marsh brought us, thoroughly exhausted, to the small hotel. All were sleeping, but "mine host" was soon aroused. There was acconunodation for Jones in an eight- bunk hall. The proprietor placed his room at our disposal, ,: il ; 1 ■1 . t 1 { , k\ in 1 88 Two Women in the Klontlike while Isaacs had to put up the tent and sleep outside. We quickh' turned in to beds almost as narrow as coffins, but we were thankful enough even for such accommodations. Friday, August I2th, In the morning Isaacs brought us big tubs of hot water and with it towels which we did not care to use. This re- minds me to add the caution, that one should always travel with one's own linen, no matter what else has to be left behind. He also Drought us the news that the horse for which we are paying from ten to fifteen dollars a day had strayed away during the night and wandered several miles on the homeward trail. He was told to go at once in search of it, but said he could not do so without his breakfast. Several hours later he tried to overtake the beast, but re- turned saying that it was not to be found. So Isaacs had to pack on his back the sixty or seventy pounds, and was told to start on ♦:he horse trail, transfer the pack to the horse's back and lead him into town, meeting us at the stores of the Alaska Commercial Companj-. We took a few pictures and then started off, E having changed muck-a-lucks with the cook, and I wearing one India-rubber boot and one nuick-a-luck. We started on the last stage of our journey at three sharp, and having been told that by climl)ing the mountain we could cut off two miles, we took that route, intending to do the eight miles leisurely — eight miles, possibly, as the crow flies, but, with all the circuitous windings of the trail, how many could it have been ? The climb was one steady pull up — up — the mountain growing steeper and steeper. We rested many times, as E 's feet were almost too sore to touch the ground, while mine felt as though there were mustard plasters on each sole. Up— up — and steeper and more steep became the mountain, until it was almost perpen- dicular. Had we seen a map or picture of it before starting, never should wehave attempted the climb, but with patient Jones ready to tender assistance at any moment in spite of being still pale, ill, and faint, we were shamed into a courage y l ■!,■ ^1 mv Visiting Mines with a Klondike King 189 we were far from feeling. Many men passed us on the trail ; many we passed as they rested by the wayside, and from each one came pleasant greetings and compliments at our pluck and courage, praise which I little deserved, being such a coward at heart. At last we reached the sunnnit, and the magnificent view was well worthy of the exertion. There was our tent in the distance ; before us the Klondike River ; r I I , I I ■» RETURNING FROM A CLEAN-UP. on the right a beautiful island, and, just beyond, Dawson. We seated ourselves on the mossy carpet, and feasted our eyes while resting our weary limbs. Then came four miles down hill, through woods, then a marsh where the trail was lost again and again, but as there were so many passing in each direction, it was easily refound. Our way next led us through a town whose name I do not like to mention — " Louse-town." When Jones said we must pass through it, I strongly objected, but he replied, " Why, there ain't none , iQo Two Women in the Klondike of 'eiu there ; that 's only the name they give it, 'cause it was bought from the Indians, an' they 're always lousy." We hastened through, nevertheless, and then found ourselves at the head of a perpendicular descent; after walking, sliding, and rolling down a long hill, which seemed so dangerous that we should have taken a picture of it had there Ijeeu light enough, to enable us afterwards to realise our own bravery. Never should I have dared it had there been any other way of reaching home. Although the bank uf the river was lined with boats and the place filled with men, it took nearly an hour to find one to row us, or rather to float with the strong current to West Dawson, not a mile distant. The first man wanted ten dollars, the second three, wliich we willinglj' gave, as, had we walked across the bridge, it would have cost one dollar each, and then we should have had the Main Street of Dawson to traverse before reaching the Alaska Commercial Company to take a boat. As we drifted down stream, we yodelled to Isaacs, and shortly after he appeared with his pack. Bad news greeted us on our arrival. The neighbours' dogs had come into the tent during our absence and killed quite a number of the pigeons. It was eight o'clock and [I '. Isaacs, though exhausted, managed to prepare us a nice little supper. Dr. II came to see if we required his services, and then such a night's rest as we should have enjoyed had it not been for the incessant barking of the dogs just outside the tent ; a noise which their owners do not seem at all to mind, but which awakened us again and again. Saturday, Au.tjust 13th. We must get rid of the pigeons! They have become .so tame that they not only fly all about the tent, but even light upon the bed ; at half-after five this morning I was up de- coying them out by offering them food and drink outside the tent door, and then Poll had to be fed in order to quiet her scolding. The .silence then was such an inducement that I began to write, and have been at it ever since. The pigeons, however, have come back through the air-holes in the top VisitinjT Mines with a Klondike King 191 l:i of the tetit, and are so saucy that they are sitting on the bench at my side, on the table at whicli I am writing, perch- ing on cups and making them fall with a crash, dipping into our drinking-water bucket, which our nian-of-all-work was too weary to cover before going home last night, and even going into the barrel, which makes me feel like covering it up so that they may never come out. Moral — never open a pigeon-box, after a voyage, in a place where you do not wish them to remain, for, fight them as you will, it is impossible to drive them out afterwards. Our first visitor was Mrs. T , to ask how we had en- joyed our trip, to inquire if she might be of S'.Tvice, and to insi.st upon making us coffee, as it was after ten, Isaacs had not j-et appeared, and our feet were too swollen to permit of our taking the least liberty in using them. K , however, made some of her delicious biscuit, which the cook, saunter- ing in before eleven, enjoyed with great gusto. Then E , who now takes charge, kindly relieving me from all care, had her first unplea.sant experience with Klondike house- keeping. The storm had been brewing for some time, and she felt it necessary to " have it out." M had arranged with his unfortunate friend to come to us as cook, carpenter, boatman, etc., for one hundred and fifty dollars a month and his "grub." He had worked well, cooked well, made us tables, shelves, and stools from boxes, etc., was willing and obliging, and at first we were well pleased. Then he found our " grub " too dainty for a strong man, so we got M to order just what miners used, and advanced him money to purchase a tent, blankets, and other necessary articles. His tent was pitched very near ours, and he was allowed the time to go back and forth for his meals. But this took so long that when we were in a hurry he remained, par- taking of our food. Next came a demand for fresh meat, and, as the regular price is one dollar a pound, and we found on inquirj' that very few men got it, we refused this modest request. We also objected to his coming in and out of the front door be- fore our guests with pipe in mouth, or to carrying in big ^ il !(!' 192 Two Women in tlic Klondike boxes wlitMi the back door was (juite as convenient. We had recjuested hin> to take his " grub " with him on the trail, but after tlie second day he ijifonned us that he had lost it, and when his friends no longer lined the route, two dollars and fifty cents a meal was the price paid. We then asked him to bring his " grub " over to our tent, and u.se our stove, rather than spend .so nuich time in making extra fires. There were also many other .small causes of complaint, of which he could not be made to see the impropriety, but when Iv said, " I am not in the habit of having my servants" — .she got no further. " Servant, madam ! ' ' .shouted I.saacs, snatch- ing up his hat. " How dare you call me a servant! Do you know who I am?" From his tone it seemed as though Iv 's end might be very near, and I prepared to go to her a.ssistance, when suddeidy his voice changed and he said, " 'Ave a glass of water, madam, a glass of cold spring water? I begs your pardon, marm, for anything I 've said or done that 's not right, but it 's hard for me to l)e menial, an' I 'm always 'ot about it when anyone calls me so." Such a scene can only be done justice to on the .stage. Mr. Jones and Mr. O soon came to inquire if they could do anything in town for us, aiid next Mrs. B , to tell us of a miners' meeting, at which everyone expressed resentment at the conduct of the Canadian officials, and con- cluded to protest and to bring pressure to bear for a change. " May I come in ? " said a new voice. " I 'm the only man in town who has n't called on you two ladies. My name is Q , and I 've heard so much that 's nice about you, that, although I never pay visits, I could n't .stay away any longer." He was .shortlj* joined by J and Jones, who brought us the latest news from town, and entertained lis until the arrival of Mr. and Mrs. U , who said they had called the night of our departure and spent an hour and a half in the tent waiting for the return of their boatman. Mrs. U declared that she is charmed with life here, in spite of having given up a fine residence at home with plenty of servants, and now living in a one-roomed cabin, doing her own housework, cooking, etc. ,.1! CHAPTER XVIII OUR MAN FRIDAY w Sunday, August I4tli. K were up early — I to drive the pigeons out and feed the pets, I{ to make biscuit, as Isaacs had (lipped into our bread, which we had bought for Sunday's diinier. He had gone off without washing the dishes or making the bread, leaving everything in the kitchen in the utmost disorder. We were so discouraged that it then de- volved upon me to lecture. So, when Isaacs came in about 9 A.M., I said, " You must listen to a few words from me, as you have paid no attention to Miss V , who is house- keeper." After a talk of half an hour, the sky was cleared, fine promises made, and Isaacs was working like a trooper. Soon from the different tents came the shouts of " Going to church ? " — "Goingtowear your overalls or trousers ?" — " I say, Jim, have you got my shaving soap? I want to shave before going to that big tent." — "Oh, those ladies said we might come just as we are." — " So they did, but we can shave, at least " — and so the preparations went on all about us. Dr. D , unable to appear, sent a .substitute. At eleven o'clock only three persons were present. I.saacs said they were all ready, but were waiting for the bell, so he was allowed to toll it. Then they came trooping in, sitting on rugs, boxes, and benches. I remained behind the screen for the music, the clergyman asking to have it alternate with songs of praise. The services passed off well, and at the close the clergyman said he should like to make the acquaint- ance of the different members of the congregation ; so we all 1 93 1! M 194 Two Women in the Klondike 4\ il I i '\ »» . had a pleasant chat, and became greatlj- interested in one another's phms and prospects. Mr. K , a nei<;hbonr, was glad to hear news of friends from Baltimore, 1 .r Har- bour, and New York. Mr. \V and son, of Colorado, came after luncheon to ask for a " lay " on one of the many claims we had .staked during the week, but to which I have not referred specifically, as the "tips" where to stake were given us by "Big A- ." The results will be seen after the .spring " clean- up." The next visitor was Jones, who begged to hear the zither, offering to unpack it upon learning that it was in the bottom of a big box. So the zither was brought out and en- joyed until it was time to prepare the dinner, to which we had invited " Big A ." He arrived at .six o'clock instead of seven, which we accepted as a pleasant coniplimert. Isaacs not only cooked, but served the meal as well as any one at home could have done. Our menu consisted of our last tin of mock-turtle soup, which was so greatly appreciated that we were fully repaid for having used it ; lobster ^ la Nevvburg — the name of which Jones asked many times ; E , who prepared it, was flattered b}- having each one ask for it twice, even though it was made of tinned lobster and California cooking sherry. Next came the leg of mutton which had been purchased the previous week, and had been hung so long that it was as sweet and tender as lamb, potato balls, made from dessicated potatoes, E 's famous escal- loped tomatoes, my asparagus salad, my peach ice-cream and E 's black coffee, with Cresta Bianca during the dinner, " topping off" with a glass of curagoa. While we were still at table our Consul arrived with a Mrs. B , and they joined us in ice-cream, cake, coffee, and wine. Mr. K also called, saying, " Here are some luig- gets for you." So you may imagine that we expressed our disgust when, instead of beautiful yellow souvenirs which are freely distril)uted in this country b)' the lucky owners of mines to their less fortunate friends, K handed us some newspapers called Klondike Niioirct. ' ' Well, by Josh ! ' ' said M , " I 'm not a-going to see you disappointed like that," i' Wk: A'. \'*< \ ■ . . >t I'll (■ ) I 196 Two Women in the Klondike and he fished down deep in his pocket and handed me first a souvenir from " Hunker " and then one from " Dominion," and added, ' ' When you go again on the trail you may pan out as much as you please from the mines on Hunker." " I Hke that," said E . " You never let me pan out a thing either on El Dorado or Dominion, and you saw me carefully put back the handfuls of nuggets I had dug out from behind the stones. " " Well you never asked me, ' ' said M . ' ' Now if she 'd been along, she would have laughed and said, ' xVm I to keep all I pan out,' and of course I 'd 'a' said yes. Now was n't it a pity that she was n't able to come, 'cause you could both 'a' helped yourselves for the askin', as the clean-up was over a hundred thousand on each mine. " You 'd better come to my claims and help your- selves, by Josh, for a syndicate has paid twenty-five thousand dollars and is to give me one million, four hundred and fiftj- thousand dollars for them, and I to take out all the gold I can between now and October ist, and should they change their minds I keep the twenty-five thousand dollars. I 'm also to get over a million for another claim which will be very rich next year, but which I have n't the time to develop, as I want some cash in order to enjoy myself in New York and London. I shall have plenty of claims left, and the clean-up next year will be greater than ever before." Could this be modest M ? But he had just returned from the mines with horses laden with bags of gold, and who could have helped feeling triumphant and intoxicated with such success. And he deserves it all, after years of patient, steady, hard work. No man living is more "square" or more filled with kindliness aiid generosity to others than honest A IM . He questioned me about travels in Europe and Japan, and of the great world outside, of which he knows so little. Jones went behind the screen to get E a glass of water and there found Isaacs rubbing his stomach, drawing in his breath with exclamations of delight, and saying, " By gollj^ that lobster k la Newburg was good. I 'ave n't 'ad hauy- ^m Our Man Friday 197 think so fine in hall me life." Poor E was unhappy, as she had made an extra dish for luncheon, but Isaacs had added it to his dinner of bacon and greens with prunes. He tried to atone for it, however, by coming and whispering to nie, " I 've 'ad all the hice-cream I could heat marm and hi 've packed down the rest, thinkin' as 'o\v pr'aps you and Miss V might like some for to-morrow." Only oc- casionally did Isaacs drop his h's and pick them up at the wrong time, and we have not yet discovered the cause. Monday, August 15th. Cold, drizzling rain! and, although we have on heavy win- ter flannels and our warme.st clothing, there is an icy chill in the air which makes us long for a nice warm room with a fire inside of this enormous tent. Our air mattresses have been worse than useless, heavy, and, although carefully cared for, the air escapes apparently through a .seam. E told Isaacs that, by taking them down to the river bank and blowing them up in the water, bubbles would .show the punc- ture, to which this irrepressible replied, " Yes'm, they 're only seven feet bj' six, .so I '11 take one under each harm, put 'em on the Yukon, float down to Circle City, an' then you '11 'ave lo.st your Isaacs." During our tramp to the mines he .said to us, "Oh, I say! won't you two ladies be stiff' and laid up : When you gets back, you '11 just .stay in bed a week, an' 'Zekiel '11 make the most delicious piquante, recherche luncheons you 've ever seen. Now, don't you never go to 'a-calling me Isaacs no more, "cause when I strikes my luck people will remember as how I 've been a cook for 3'ou, but call me 'Zekiel, as there 's plenty o' Zekes in the world, and no one will ever know anythink about it." M told us that, seeing Isaacs waiting with his pack, he had asked about the ladies, and was told in reply: " IMy dusky queens are now coming down the Louse-town trail, but if I strikes my pile, I would n't mind marrying Mi.ss V myself. She 's a fine one, but as for Mrs. H , why I 've got no use for her. She puts on too many airs and never ) \ n 198 Two Women in the Klondike '' .-'. '. i!! lets a fellow talk when he wants to. Why, would you be- lieve it ? I went and sat on a bench 1)eside her to tell her a funny joke I 'd just 'eard, and what did she do but say, ' Isaacs, I 'm busy writing, and don't want to be disturbed.' Great Julius Cccsar ! catch nie trying to entertain her any more, an' me a-doin' me best." On our return, in bringing me hot water, he .said, " Well, if you '11 permit me to make a remark, madam, you 're just the cleanest woman as I 've ever met. Why even up 'ere, where one can never keep clean, you 're a-vvashin' and a-wa.shin' o' yourself all the time. Cleanliness is next to Godliness, an' if I thought I could stand next to God I 'd take a bath once't a month. While I was getting you those nice big buckets o' hot water on the trnil, I had otdy a couple o' gold pans to wash in, one in which for to put each foot ; none o' the gold stuck to them but a good deal rolled off o' my feet after that tramp. I once did have enough gold and that was at the Keeley cure. Me at the Keeley cure! Madam, how dare you ? Why, I 've never taken enough liquor in all me life to make a flea drunk. Talk about that dinner last uight ! Why, no such dinner was ever given on the Yukon. How I did enjoy it in the little corner to which you 've relegated me behind the screen ! And when you told me to clear the table I just looked at your glass an' says to myself, ' Mrs. H never forgets Zeke,' and there it was almost a full glass o' champagne. I tell you, it made me feel just good to watch the sparkle of it, an' I held it as a miser does his gold and could n't make up my mind to drink it. Great Julius Caesar, but was n't it good, though ! I could n't get to .sleep until after one o'clock just a-thinkin' about it." Mr. Jones was our first caller this morning. He had just returned from spending the night with M in Dawson, and although we told him the tent was not yet in order, he in.sisted that as he was one of the " outskirts of the family " we ought not to mind him. Isaacs's tongue had been un- loosened and nothing could stop it. His head appeared over the .screen and he called out. " I say, John, how did you and M enjoy our dinner last night ? Pretty good, Ji, .^ Our Man Friday IQ9 was n't it ? Thought so myself. I 'm getting a fine repu- tation as a chef, eh ? I say, I 've been investigating, this morning, and I 've found all sorts of things in these glasses," said he, as his forefinger went from mouth to liqueur glass. " 'Ere 's somethink new— don't know what it tastes like — oranges, I guess. I say, did you ever taste it before these two ladies gave it to you ? I tell you, it 's good," and Zeke commenced rubbing his .stomach and giving forth exclama- tions of delight. Jones said to E , " M has done nothing but talk about that dinner and say he 'd never had anything so delicious in all his life, but he said he did n't say so to you ladies, as he did n't know whether it was ' society ' to do so. You don't put on no airs and you make him feel just like he was one o' your set, and never seem to notice no mistakes in his conversation. He 's sure he must make a lot, 'cause he ain't had no more schoolin' 'n me ; has been all his life in mines, an' says you 're real ladies to treat him so nice. Oh, I say, Mrs. H . I'm a lay in' for you ; you treated me real mean last night. You just see how I 'm goin' to pay you back." "Why, were you here last night ? " said I, laughing. " Now just look at her, Miss V . What can you do with a lady like that ? She 's always a-joshin' you, an' I can't never get the best o' her. Just wait till she wants me to help her over a bridge or down the side of a mountain, or thinks she sees a bear, an' then she '11 be a-callin' for John, but just now she feels so .safe in this here tent that she ain't got no use for him." This reminds me that M told last night of a man who had been found dead on the trail to Sulphur, with a bear full of shot lying by his side, but still breathing. M said that if he had n't shot at the bear he probablj' would not have been attacked ; that the only way was to pay no attention to it, and one would stand a good chance of escape, but E— — and I then and there decided th t no amount of panning or bags of nuggets would ever tempt us to go on the Sulphur trail. Mr. T came next and brought us a magnificent fresh salmon which we told him he must share with us later. He m ~ 200 Two Women in the Klondike then unfolded the following scheme : his friend B had purchased No. — bench claim, adjoining B 's on El Dorado for three hundred dollars at auction, but, on finding that it was seventy feet to bed-rock, had concluded not to keep it, and would let it go (to a friend) for same price as paid, " Of course everj'one is for No. — ," said T , " and my proposition is that you ladies buy it and give me 'y^'f' .'E;<-!i »u- I- ' '. '" * tZ /^ ^ i i" A^ ^ ^ - - • ■ A VEGETABLE GARDEN IN THE KLONDIKE. half." " You to do the assessment work ? " said I. " Afy s/iafr," replied he. He had another plan also ; said that his intention was to get a lot of claims together, pool them, go home, form a syndicate, and get money to work them. " Be- ing in with you two ladies will be so much the better, as you have been here and know just what there is in them and people will believe you where they might not believe a man." Then came Dr. H , who carefully dressed and bandaged '), .1 Our Man Friday 20 1 our feet. Someone asked M- - if the ladies in the bi<^ tetit had returned, to which he repHed, " Oh yes, but they 're in so many poultices and bandages that it 's hard to get near them." Isaacs called out from behind the screen, " I say, 'ave you 'eard the latest ? The people in Dawson want to know if you two ladies are missionaries, as they see as 'ow you have services hevery Sunday, an' I told 'em indeed you was, and one man said, ' By Jove, an' I told them a .story about throwin' Christ onto' the window. I '11 never dare to go near them no more.' Another spoke up and .said, ' Why they :"y as 'ow they 'ave the finest dinners as 'ave hever been known in the Klondike before, and they travels with their own chef,' but I did n't let on as I was the chef. Then some other fellows said they 'd never been in the tent, there was too much style over there for 'em, but they believed they 'ad a lot o' little tents in which to play progressive euchre, and give ice-cream free to everyone who called 'ot an' tired from the other side. Then somebody said as I was a-waitin' on you, and thej' arsked me some questions, but I did n't let on a thing, ju.st told 'em you were two princesses from India wanting to see the world." 2 P.M. While at luncheon the irrepressible came in say- ing, " Now that you two ladies are at table and neither readin' nor writin', I 've got a think or two I 'd like to .say ; have I your permission ? " looking first at one and then the other, as he drew up an empty box and placed it at table between us. " You see," he wdiispered, with a mysterious air, " I 've been a-digging about here and have found every symptom of quartz. Now what 's the matter with looking nearer 'onie for someone to put you on to a good thing in stead o' listening to your Mr. T and all the other fellows who tries to do the 'owlin' swells in your heasy chairs, while I, as is worth twenty of them, slaves awaj' be'ind that there screen. Now if you ladies will just fit me out all right with grub and money, and start me hoff on the trail, you '11 see that Zeke can do even better for you there thon in the kitchen. Bring a glass o' water ? Yes, that 's always the way, whenever I get in the midst of an h teresting con- 202 Two Women in the Klondike '1 1 .8 versatioii. Now 'ere 's Miss V ; it seems to nie she would eujoj' listening to me sometimes, but when she sees you, madam " (and here he bowed low), " a raisin' of your eyebrows with tliat grand air, why, then, she 'as somehow to stop a listenin' ; but I 'm not a-satisfyin' you because my heart 's set on the trail, an' I can't give my mind to my work, an' as you two ladies don't like to 'ave me sit 'ere an' entertain you, why I thinks as 'ow, if we can square up ac- counts, we 'd better give one more o' those big dinners" (rubbing his stomach again) "and Zeke will do as you asked 'im to, — make room for another. 'Kre 's my ac- count, marm, of what you 've advanced me : " Tent fixinf.'s |32.(X) Fry pan and cofTeepot 2.50 Tools 2.00 Shoes 2. CO Tobacco 1.50 " Great Julius Ccrsar! 'ave n't had any for the past week an it grates on a man's nerves. " Socks I0.30 " 'Ad to 'ave one pair. " Pencils $0.50 Medicine i .00 " I 've been 'ere fifteen days at five dollars a day and there 's over thirty dollars a-coniin' to me, but I '11 stay another week to get a little more ahead before starting. " Then I 've bought for you two ladies " Knife I1.50 Bread (2 loaves) 50 Fish i.oo Pan 1.00 Ice 2.00 " Is that correct ? A foot-stool ? Yer want it I presume because Zeke's a-talkin' too much.— All right, I '11 have the pleasure of giving it to you, madam, in two shakes of a lamb's tail." Next came Mr. Jones with the account ot our expenses during the mine visiting, which he was very reluctant to submit to us, only doing so after repeated requests : Our Man Friday Roomat Half-way House.. $ 5.00 iMenls la.ao Room at Forks lo.cw Room at Coffee House.. I'erry Boat 203 $5 -no 2.5" 1. 00 Thu hill for Isaacs' .s meals and for the horse .still to come ! As it was pay-day, M next submitted his account : Oars |6.oo Oar-locks 2.00 Salmon i .00 Salmon 75 Veal I .CX5 Bread i .00 Two water buckets 4.00 Bread 50 Dishes 1.50 6 towels 3.75 Rope 6.75 2 assistants $ 5.00 Help in pulling tent 8.50 Extra help 2.00 10 pounds rice 2.50 Tackle 4.00 Poles for tent 7.25 Marketing 5.00 Isaac's grub for month. . . 28.10 Assistant 2.50 Nails 1.50 Gallon coal oil 2.50 While we were examining: accounts, Isaacs had di.sappeared entirely. We sent out search parties for him in vain, and finally saw him rowing back from Dawson. After .sectiring the l)oat, he ran up the bank and towards the tent, shouting:, " I 've been to .see the Louise, and I tell sow ladies she 's a beatity. Yes, I know there 's lots to be done before niji;ht, but I went in my lunch hour," said he, as he prepared him- self a more elaborate luncheon than we had had time for. Dr. C had kindly brought us over a 12 x 14 tent to erect inside of ours, in which to sleep and dre.ss, that we might not only suffer less from the cold, but have more privacy than screens and curtains permitted. " Come in here, John, and help me get up this tent," called Isaacs from behind the screen to Jones who was paying us a visit, but who imniedi- atel}' obeyed the summons and worked like a trooper until the nice comfortable quarters were prepared. The ground inside was covered with evergreen boughs, while a mound of them was made in each corner, on which our hammocks, niattres.ses, and rugs were placed. Mrs. B came for an hour and told us of many anuising incidents occurring in town, but as she writes them to her paper I reluctantly re- frain from writing them down. 7\ \ !l 204 Two Women in the Klondike r- 1' At 7.15 we sat clown to tliiiner. Our table faces the water, and before we had finished we saw M , R , Von M , and D stepping out of their boats and com- ing up the bank to our tent. Then followed Dr. H , to introduce Mr. h , then Mr. F (apologising for the non-appearance of Mr. C , who was ill with laryngitis). Such a jolly crowd ! We had airs from the music-box, R played the mandolin, and then they called for the zither. Finally, the graphophone was a.sked for, but as it had been put out of order the first night, E said it could not be used, and would not allow the " boys " to try and re- pair it ; but they coaxed with such good effect, that they finally managed to gain her con.sent and shortly after we were listening to the J^nvmi^s of John McCiiUough, until our blood curdled and we shivered as we called for a xylophone solo and some lively quartettes. Judge and Mrs. B -, of Santa Clara, had sent by us a bag of clothing and goodies to be delivered to their two sons in Dawson, but although they had left before our arrival, we were told that F and C were their heirs. We jokingly told the former that we had no written instructions to that effect, but would take his word for it, and the pre- sentation was made with great ceremony. No sooner had the " boys " heard that there were three boxes of Maskey's chocolates in the l)ag, than they fell upon F and forced him to open it. He immediately presented one box to me, but as we were soon to "go out" I preferred that it should be enjoyed by those who had another two years to remain. The chocolates were seized without further cere- mony, and disappeared so rapidly that F thought it necessary to sit on the bag for the remainder of the evening. . s CHAPTER XIX ISAACS, THE IRREPRESSIBLE Tuesday, Aujjust i6th. UCH a night's rest in the little tent ! My head kept sliding down hill, until I dreamed that H was dying and my every energy was l)eiiig expended on trying in vain to get to her. The air is now so cold and chill that we liave on our sealskin wraps besides being heavily clad in winter flannels. Never before have we so longed for t)ie in- tense rays of the sun. The heat from the stove on which our breakfast is being cooked makes no impression even on a corner of this immense tent. The irrepressible performs his morning tasks to a rutniing accompaniment. " Parrot ! you 'd better get rid o' her — get .someone to buy her, she re- quires too nuich care and attention. You 'd better not pre- sent her to Miss E ; she 'd have an apoplectic fit." Here he breaks into song, " I can't believe her faithless, those ej'es of tender blue." Working at the stove-pipe. " Now would n't that cook j'ou, working away at this the 'ole bloomin' morning and then finding it 's no go? 'Ow did you sleep last night ? Oh, if you 've got no more sense than to put yer 'ead where the 'eels ought to 'a' been, o' course yer ought to expect the puni.shment. Now that there Cap- tain E , did you ever hear tell as 'ow 'e staked hout the 'ole water-front, a callin' it placer-claims ? " Ma used to .say that a little elbow grease and a scrubbin' o' the corners worked wonders. ' Scrub the corners o' the pans, Zeke,' says she, ' an' the middle '11 take care o' itself.' She was a great philosopher was ma. Yes 'm, hot water in 205 ■r' • r m 1 I '■ 206 Two Women in the Klondike l1^ a 'andful o' seconds. Oh, by gosh ! I 'm so sorry you did n't SL'e one o' those pigeons hist niglit. I had a 'ot fire, a l)akin' o' bread, when I '11 be durned if 'e did n't light on the top o' the stove and stand there for two or three seconds, and then 'e 'eld hup one foot and looked at it and then the other before 'e concluded that there was somethink wrong an' flew awaj'. Whoa, Pat ! My goodness ! 'ere I 've drove this 'ere stake down four feet an now I 've got to take it out again, coz the pigeons '11 roost right over it ; everythink ought ter be covered up until those there pigeons are either killed or sold." " Isaacs, c/o try and keep the butter covered ; here it is open again with all the dust and dirt falling into it, and you 've been requested so many times to cover it." — " See here, I wish you ladies would find something com- plimentary to say once in a while." — " You nuist not be impertinent." — "I 'm not impertinent, I 'm only just speakin' the truth ; it 's rather painful sometimes. Heave ho ! Here 's the .stake down. Sally 's in our alley. Sup- pose I 'm getting a roast now," said he, as I took up pen and paper. " Here goes, — here's your rope to hang your dresses on ; why don't you turn them ? This is the way mother used to do it. All right, I '11 do your way; it 's just as well to learn new ways ; my wife won't do a thing to me when she .sees what I 've learned. Say, why don't you have your clothes made reversible ? Then it would save freight and people would think you 'ad a pile o' clothes when you 'ad n't. Say, is n 't it surprisin' 'ow many times you can go to sleep an' wake up in the night— in one night ? " E had put some macaroni to soak, but when she looked for the large cheese it had disappeared. After a long search, it finally became evident that it was not in the tent. " Now, Isaacs," said E — , " you know j'ou said you loved cheese, and if ever you stole anything it would be that." " Guess the dog must 'a' taken it, marm," said Isaacs; "that macaroni 's awful good, but just think 'ow good it would 'a' been with cheese. Mrs. H , there 's only one favour I 'd ever ask of you, and that is, to send me a copy o' that book i 111 t^i, m}^ 'W^v .. >'1 Ui z did n't you tell me I 'd need a scow for your mail," said he, as he handed sixty letters to me and almost as many to E. Scarcely had we begun to read them when Mr. O came with a friend from Dawson whom he wished to present. The former intended to have a grand opening of his new liquor saloon and begged us to sell to him our British and Aiuerican flags, but we could not npare them. However, we allowed him to have .some small pictures of Dewey, Sampson, Sigsbee, and General Lee. Everyone is now anxious for tl i picture of the new hero, Schley, but, unfortunately, it was not ready when we left San Francisco. Mr. O next admired a beautiful calendar which E had given me for a Christmas gift and which was tied to the .screen with blue ribbons. As E and I have both decided to " go out " light, that is, to take nothing u'.iuecessary back with us over the trail, she nodded her asse.it to this di.sposition of the calendar, which O carried off triumphantly. Just then two of our fellow- passengers from San Francisco entered — the mother and I ,'i ll '\ Isaacs, the Irrepressible >09 daughter who had been so enterprising in buj-ing out laundry, swinnning-baths. and shop under one roof. Thej- agreed to take our linen for two dollars a dozen, which was exceedingly reasonable compared with the six dollars asked in Dawson. They had been farther than we on the trail, had staked out some claims, and, in two months, intended to give up their establishment and begin working their mines. During dinner Isaacs approached, drew up an empty box on which he seated himself, and said, " Now that I have a few moments to spare, an' a few things to say, I '11 try and fix the graphophone for you. As you 've 'ad such a big mail an' been readin' letters to each other from dukes and duchesses, an mar/(wjes and princes, it must seem funny to you to stop an' talk to a fellow like me, but it takes all kinds to make a world, an' you can't tell what I '11 be three years from now. I 've never been a menial before, and no one can be a good servant unless 'e 's brought up to it, and edu- cated for it. Now some 'ow or bother hit hirritates me just the very way in which Mrs. H says ' Isaacs.' Yer see some people yer can work for an' do everything for, an' it 's all right, an 'a pleasure, coz yer can sit down afterwards and talk things over like one o' the family, but if once I takes a seat like the other in a lieasy chair, an' try to be sociable, well Mrs. H , she seems to think I 'm out o' place, an' I 'm no hypocrite, and won't pretend to like peo- ple, and like things, even if I could make a fortune by it. You 're all right. Miss V , 'cause you don't mind sittin' down and talkin' to me. Now, I say, how would this little scheme strike you ? What do you say to givin' Zeke — say a hundred dollars— sort of a grub-.stake, and I give you my word you 'd never lose nothink by it — say fiftj' dollars apiece. Every man about here is coming to you with some proposition, — but what 's the matter with lookin' nearer home ? Any one with 'arf an eye can see you ladies are not going to be taken in, but I laughs to myself when they thinks you are because you 've got millions ; but you knows how to take care o' younselves if ever anybody did, and in staking Isaacs you 'd be sure to make something bout of hit." 14 F R'.i '« 2IO Two Women in the Klondike This grand scheme was interrupted 1j\- a miner who, with five of his partners, was willing to give us half of each of their mines, in case we would advance them the monej- to get them recorded, and give them their grub while working them. Just then " Big A " was announced, most oppor- tunel\- for us, and we consulted him as to the claims offered us by these six men. He was kind enough to go careful!)' over the maps with us, explaining clearly the geological formation as he had found it, and describing much that he had learned through years of toil and hard experience. When our guests took their leave the rain came down in tor- rents and the night was so dark that we insisted upon pro- viding them with lanterns and umbrellas, as without the light of the former they could never have found their way through the boats that lined the banks of the Yukon. Wechiesday, August I7tli. " Isaacs, you left the fire burning last niglit in the oil- stove and we almost had an explosion, to say nothing of losing the entire gallon of oil." — " Holy Moses ! I 'm always doing somethink. I say, did it rain in this tent la.st night ? Golly, how it rained through mine ! " 'i We had requested our " help " to come at eight o'clock '• and have breakfast ready at nine, but it was after nine be- ^ , fore he came sauntering in, and we two frightened women dared say nothing. On the previous day, when .spoken tO' concerning a similar offence, he confided to the parrot in a stage whisper that " just because a fellow's watch was wrong, 'e must be jumped on for it." E told him what to pre- pare for luncheon, but he seemed to take great pleasure in acting contrary to her orders, and continued his arrange- ments as though she had not spoken. Finally I thought it necessary to interfere, .saying, " I cannot allow you to dis- obey Miss V . Did you not hear her forbid you to dO' what you are now doing ? " " Oh, I 'card a'l right enough, ' ' said he, continuing to disobey ; " but some'ow or bother borders hirritates me, an Hi 'd rather take the conse- quences than be bossed. Yer gives a fellow 'is grub, just / '!. Isaacs, the Irrepressible 21 I such as 'e uses when 'e 's a working at the mines, and then you 'as all the delicacies of the season and just lets a fellow smell 'em. Why Zeke 'd be han hidjit, nunn, to confine himself to miner's grub when 'e can 'ave such luxuries, and 'e 's a-going to take 'em rn' take the consequences hevery time." " Then," said I, gathering courage, " the quicker you pack up and leave the better." " Yes 'm," said he, smihng sardonically, " but I '11 'ave one good breakfast first." With that he seated himself, neglecting his own bacon, beans, and customary food, and helped himself to some of the few delicacies which we had brought to tide us over until the arrival of our stores. Before leaving San Francisco, finding that we were allowed but a thousand pounds freight on the Alaska Commercial Company's steamer, and that our boxes weighed very nearly that, to say nothing of the tent, music-bux and other heavy articles, we decided to send our supplies, which we purchased for the winter in case of being accidentally frozen in, b}- an- other line. From one companj- to the other we went, but no one would guarantee sending freight up the river by the first ste::i..:er except the Johnson-L,ocke Company, of which M wrote us that it was tJioroughly reliable. The repre- sentative in their office assured us that not only should the goods start on the same day as we — June i ith — but also that they should go up the Yukon at once, with no detention at St. Michaels, adding that they would probably arrive in Dawson before us. Upon this we purchased so large a cargo that the freight alone cost us very nearly five hundred dollars, and took with us only enough delicacies and solid provisions to last a few weeks. We had also been informed that the Johnson-Locke Company and the Jo.seph Ladue Company were identical. The contract, however, has not yet been fulfilled, and we are impatiently awaiting the arrival of the much needed stores. After Isaacs had finished his breakfast, his soliloquies re- commenced. " Now I '11 clean up heverythink, Polly, and let them see how nice heverythink looks when Isaacs goes away ; Hi 've 'ad enough o' being bossed by women, an' I •\ 'I, M 1^ 2 I 2 Two Women in the Klondike V..h 1 [ ^ J 1 1 i 'i 1,1 i 't: •'' if n> don't want any more of it." He smiled a smile of childlike innocence as he deliberately poured out the hot water which he had l)een told to prepare for my manicuring, and the smile broadened as he saw me search for a tin pan of cold water to be used in its place. He called K to go over the list and see that all was correct, making sarcastic little remarks as he did so. Finally, as we were seated in the re- ception room part of the tent, he approached, and seating himself on an empty box, said, " Now, ladies (I suppo.se you call j'ourself ladies after bossing a poor fellow who 's down on his luck and trying to make Mm do your way instead o' 'is), I 've a few words to say. I 've never been a menial be- fore and don't like it, an' I 'm not going to be bossed any longer and never allowed to come an' sit 'ere with you." E said something about servants, but before she could get any further he thundered, " Servant ! servant I great Julius Caesar ! 'ow dare you call me a servant ? 'Ave n't I told you a 'undred times that I 'm not a servant ? I just — '" " Isaacs, I cannot allow you to be impertinent to Miss V ," said I, gathering courage to interfere, and walking to the tent door to let him see that, although we were only two lone women, there were plent\' of neighbours on whom to call for assistance. " I don't call it impertinent ; you 've 'ad your say, and, by golly, I 'm goin' to 'ave mine. Why, d n it, d' yer think a man can't speak out and that you 're a-goin' to 'u.sh 'im hup an' not let 'im free 'is mind ? Well, I just guess not." Fortunately, the voice of Mr. Q was heard at this point calling to know if we had any commis- sions for town ; then came Jones and J and Dr. H . Isaacs was paid off, and left without .so much as saying good- bye, after cutting a little wood and bringing water in accord- ance with E 's request. At I P.M., while Mrs. T was calling and asking for contributions for the new hospital, which we mo.st willingly promised, Jones kindly rowed me over to the Recorder's office, where I went to record a bench claim on El Dorado and one on Bear Creek. Being a woman, I was at once ad- mitted into the private office ahead of the long line of men, .i \ ! .1 tl -:W I s K uJ I- < l^f 2 14 Two Women in the Klondike r. \ t and, although I felt sorry for tliLMii, my feet were not yet in condition to stand and wait my turn, so I resolved to delay the line as short a time as possible. I then went to the Alaska Connnercial Company and followed the Dawson habit of sitting on the counter and swinging my feet while giving orders. I was immediatelj'^ joined bj- M , Dr. C , Captain F and others who wanted to know how a citified woman had managed to get up on the counter and identify herself so soon with the Dawsonites. " After that long tramp over the mountains, marshes, and rolling stones, any gymnastic feat is easy," said I, " and then the miners give me valuable bits of information here which they never would dream of doing if I did not make myself one of them. ' ' The men promised to scour the town again in search of a cook for us. I next went to the Consul's to deliver E 's letters that were to go in the official mail ; had a chat with my old fellow-passenger, Mr. \V , who said that he arrived in Dawson while we were out on the trail. Asked the price of an acetylene bicycle lamp ; such as we had pur- chased in San Francisco, with fifteen pou.ids of calcium car- bide for four dollars, the merchant wanted forty dollars — the best investment yet discovered ii: case they are really salable. At last, all commissions finished, I crawled under wharves, over ropes, and through mud to reach good Jones's boat, which had been at in by the Ora, and the peaceful row across the river was most grateful after the noise and bustle of the town. On reaching the tent, I found Von M playing my zither most beautifully. Dr. C , Captain F , and J , who had all come to offer their services to get wood, or water, or anything else we might need. Then came the Rev. Dr. D , with Mr. H to inquire if he might hold religious services on Sunday next. He had been to El Dorado to superintend the funeral services of a man who had been smothered in a mine, leaving a widow and nine children. At 6 p.:\r. the faithful Jones rowed E and me over to the Fairview Hotel, where M had invited us to dine, and the dinner made our poor attempts seem almost ludi- Isaacs, the Irrepressible 215 crous. M was awaiting us, and had a table in the corner of a goodly-sized dining-room. He had ordered a mando- linist, a guitarist, and a banjoist, and the proprietor, the proprietress, and manager came often to the table to inquire how we were pleased. The menu will prol)aidy be of inter- est to those who think of starvation and hardships at mention of the Klondike : Kastern oysters on ice ; tomato soup in cups ; salmon, sauce Hollandaise ; sweetbreads and musli- rooms ; green peas, chops and mushrooms ; chicken en casserole ; lettuce salad ; preserved pears, cheese, biscuit, nuts, raisins, cafe noir — washed down with German wine ; even bon-bons were passed. After dinner we walked down to the Ora to view the accom- Tiiodations in case we should decide to go out by her. Deck so narrow that one had to cling to the side to keep from fall- ing overboard. Tliere was one room with twelve bunks, one with two, one on either side with one. No linen or blankets were provided, and everything was filthy. We almost de- cided at once to return down the Yukon the same way by which we came. After travelling such a distance, however, it seems a great pity to miss the grandeur of the .scenery over the Pass, and by thinking of Turkish and Ru.ssian Baths and shampoo parlors to be fovuul at the end of tlie journey, and an entire new outfit, we shall probably screw up our courage and take the plunge. A magnificent new steamer of the North American Transportation Company with electric lights and all the luxuries hitherto unknown in these regions, was lying at the dock and attracting general attention by throwing her search-light in all directions. We were next escorted to the private entrance of the theatre, where in a box from behind drawn curtains we watched the play, Stillwater Willie, and heard some wretched singing from girls who were applauued to the echo ])y their admirers in the audience. A sign in the box read, " Gentlemen in private boxes are expected to order refreshments," so our enter- tainers sent for my usual beverage, lemonade, while the others enjoyed crcmc dc ineuthc. No checks were given us, as M — — was not present to " jolly " the waiter into doing 2l6 Two Women in the Klondike 1m SO, and he did not dare offer them to " the grand ladies," as we are now known, owing to the size of onr tent and the supposed deptli and richness of our purses. M told me that Isaacs had been to him for employment that afternoon, but that as he did not understand the situation he had put him off. We begged him to give him something to do at once, and as far away from Dawson as possible, as we feared that, his money once spent, we should have him hanging about. " Well, that 's what I '11 do, by gosh," said M . " I '11 give him something the first thing in the morning, so that ye ladies will have nothing further to bother ye." Be- fore going into the theatre we were joined by Consul M who told us of a grievance he had against the Collector of Customs, who was in the same building, but refused to serve where the American flag was allowed to fly. The papers were full of the case, and boys were crying in the street^ " Full account of the row in the American Consul's office." At II P.M. M and Jones escorted us to the small boat where the former bade us good-night and the latter rowed us across. Thursday, August i8th. A visit from Isaacs this morning, who came to return a candlestick, and to tell us that if we wanted to give our regu- lar dinner he would be happy to come and cook it for us. He asked if we had said anything against him to M , as he was hoping to get work from him, having known him man}' j-ears, and if we blocked him, he 'd hate to do it, but — here he stopped as he caught my severe glance, and E said, " On the contrary, when M spoke to Mrs. li ■ last night about you, she begged him by all means to give 30U work, and he said you should certainly have it the first thing this morning, so I advise you to go at once." " I 've brought you a Jap cook," called the cheery voice of John Jones, from outside the tent, after the departure of Isaacs, and in he came, followed by " Frank," who surveyed the big tent with much pleasure, saying, " Very nice, very nice; very fine ice-cream freezer." After hearing what duties he was expected to perform, he decided to go back at Isaacs, the Irrepressible 217 once, bring his household goods to this side, and put them in the tent which Mr. Jones kindly offered to loan him. Poor John was then called upon to row him back and help him over with his stores as soon as possible. We i)rotested against taking .such advantage of so much kindness, but John silenced us by .saying, " Why, I never enjoyed my.self so much in my life as I)y being allowed to help wait on you ladies. I 've got nothing to do until I go out to my mines, and might just as well be doing this as anything else ; be- sides, it keeps John out o' mi.schief." i p.m. no cook ; 2 p.m. no cook. At 2.30 Mr. Jones returned, saying that the Jap weakened on his return to Dawson at the thought of having to cross the river each time he wanted to meet his compatriots, and decided that it would be too lonely for him, so our kind neighbour had brought us back bread and cake in order to tide us over while another cook was being .searched for. He lit the fire for us, went to the spring for a bucket of water, and did any number of chores besides. The bill came for the hor.se which E had ordered to ride to El Dorado — sixty dollars, which meant thirtj' dollars from 4 P.M. Monday to midnight Tuesday, and ten dollars a day until the horse roamed into town of his own free will and accord, and we never yet have learned how he crossed the ferry. " I 've just had a talk with Isaacs," said kindly Jones, " and have told him not to bother you ladies no more, not to come here, and not to ask questions as to whether you were talkin' about him, as you had n't the time and had too much to do to condesceiid to the likes o' that, so you won't never see him no more. As soon as I tie this tent down a little tighter, 'cause there 's a gale a-comin' up, I '11 go across and get your bag o' mail, as they say tliere 's plenty of it a-waitin' for you at the post-office ; " so off he went, and down came the rain, wliicli we are now receiving almost daily, though luckily in April showers only. Hardly had he disappeared when we heard at the tent door, " Well I 've got me lay. A 's just given me the best thing," and in rushed Isaacs, his face radiant ; " it '11 bring me in perhaps thirty or forty thousand dollars ; going I > i8 Two Women in the Klondike <> I ll I .< i I to send lue up to Sulphur ; cabin 's already built, all royal- ties paid, no expenses, and me lo 'ave charge of all the men. Could n't 'a' 'oeen better I I tell you, he 's treated me fine. Yer see I was j^^oin' up to the Rockies, but '11 ^ive it up now. 'E wants me to <;o to-day, but I 've ^ot hall me washin' to .soak and so 've ^ot to wait till to-morrow ni.t:;ht. Could n't yer let me 'ave some o' me grub ? You '11 never be able to use all the Hour and other things you 've got on hand, an' I '11 pay yer somethink on it. Well, ladies, me fortune 's made, an' if you comes up next sunnner pr'aps Zeke '11 be one o' the Bonanza Kings, and be able to have the pleasure o' eiitertainin' you." Andoff went the irrepressible. Never again, in any part of the world, will it be possible to discover another character .so unique and combining .so queer a mix- ture ot drollery, uncon.scious impertinence, and kindline.ss. " I say, I 've just come back to arsk if you 'ad n't some papers, books, or magazines to .spare ? or could you let me 'ave .some candles ? but if you can't spare the candles I can save me bacon grease and manage some kind o' a light out o' that. Zeke 's handy, and you ladies will happreciate it when you finds another man to wait on vou. Well, Hi 'm hoff."" We managed a cold dinner, E as usual insisting upon doing more than her share of the work, .saying that she loved camping out, and the culinarj' department in particular. John Jones, who had returned empty-handed from the post- office, as it was closed when he reached there, said, " Yes, if you did n't do the cooking and I did n't bring the water and even fill her glass for her, Mrs. H would die of .starvation and thirst, as she never seems to have time to do nawthin' but write, write, write." This shows me up as a very lazy member of the party, who only reconciled that qualitj' to her con.science l)y E 's apparent enjoyment in making cer- tain dainty dishes, and her pleasure in the appreciation which was manifested. Scarcely had we finished dinner when Mr. M , Mr. R , and Mr. W , the handsome blond Englishman. and Judge appeared. M brought a big bag of ice ,1 A Isaacs, the Irrepressible 219 to make ice-cream, so one of the " hoys " got the tin of con- deiised cream and opened it, another whipped it, another got tlie sngar, anotlier i'ound the lin of peaches we liad sent for, winch j)roved to be a tin of pears, so we had to snlxstiliUe .strawberry jam. After thoronghly mixing and pouring this preparation in the can, the boys stood in line to turn the crnnk, the lazy ones being relieved from duty sooner than OUR HELPFUL NEIGHBOURS. the bashful ones, who waited for volunteer relief which failed to materiali.se. Such con.stant opening and tasting ! We first discovered that it tasted too much of the cream, so added water, as condensed milk made it worse ; then it was too weak, and Kirschwasser was found to be ju.st the thing for it. At last it was ready, and I said jokingly, " Now, boys, pack it down for our luncheon and dinner to-morrow." *' No, madam," replied M , " women have special privi- ^; r{ ■I! 220 Two Women in the Klondike leges ill this country and are always waited upon and treated with most distinguished consideration, hut when it 's a ques- tion of gruh, the man is l)ound to have it every time, and with that off came the lid of the can. There was a scrainl)Ie between two of the boys for the jiaddle which they called the wish-bone, as they wanted to show us how clean it could be licked by a " Siwash," as they called themselves for the mo- ment. Each fellow provided himself with a tin cup, M with a tin plate ; the one supposed to have the keenest sense of justice was deputised to ladle it out, and the spoonfuls were carefully counted so that no one should get a feather's weight more than another. Then came the groans and grunts of satisfaction, as some of the boys said " the first I 've tasted since leaving home. Would n't 'a' missed it for the world. Ah, it 's necessary to come to this country to enjoy everything ! " Then each fellow was told to hold on to his cup while we had some music. R played the mandolin, and the Judge the guitar better than I have ever heard, and we listened with keenest en- joyment as they rendered Cavallcria Rusticana, Abcndstcrn, Traviata, Lucia, and many other airs. A second round of ice-cream and cake was next in order, and M was accused of getting more on his plate than anyone else could put in a cup, against which assertion he protested in his ludicrous way, saying, "I '11 bet I 've lifted down less than any other fellow here." It began to get so cold that we put on our sealskins while M and R rolled themselves up in fur robes and looked like bears. Our illumination consisted of three candles and a lantern. At half-past ten it was still colder, so the boys bade us good-night and started for their canoes which speedily took them to Dawson and their warm little cabins. Then came the voice of Jones saying, " I waited up until your guests had left, to see if I could n't fetch you some water or do something for you. Well, if you don't want nothing, I '11 be saying good night." How we congratulated ourselves that Dr. C had loaned us the nice little tent into which we l; Isaacs, the Irrepressible 221 crawk'd to our heds, oiilj' to find that Ivan, also feeling the cold, had snuggled himself in among the rugs on m\- air- mattress from which the air had entirely escaped, owing to the crack in the seam and his weight combined. We shivered and shook as we luidressed and wrapped ourselves in our fur robes, and thought of the comforts of the homes we had left behind us, Ijut never once did we dream of re- gretting having taken the trip, of which each new experience added to its interest. We also felt that upon returning to luxurious civilisation it would seem hard to breathe the stifling air of a city. ( u n \S^ I a (I i ■I I ••I 'i ' I II M CHAPTER XX OUR HELPFUL NEIGHBOURS Friday, Auffust 19th. AT 9 A.M. Jones came bringing us a bucket of fresh water from the spring ; then offered to cut some wood, and light our fire for us, and also to do our shopping in Dawson, objecting to our going, on account of the typhoid fever. So off the good fellow went with our list of commissions, saying in answer to my protests, " It 's no use ; I shall never be able to do enough for you after your kindnes.'^ to me, when you 'd onl}' heard of me as the ' sick boy.' " Next came Mr. Q , who also said, " If there are any connnissions for town this morning, you nuist give them to me and not show your faces on the other side of the river ; two thousand are down with typhoid fever, and I saw a poor girl carried in a chair to the hospital yesterda\'. It 's a lucky thing you 're on this side of the Yukon. The ' old girl ' wants to be rowed over, and asked me to take her, but she 's not yet ready." " Who is it you call the ' old girl ' ? " said I. " Oh, that woman who always goes al)out in men's clothing. She went to the post-office and walked into the ladies' entrance, when they called out to her, ' The other door, sir, the other door ; can't you hear ? That door is only for ladies.' ' But I am a lady,' she answered. ' Well, j'ou don't look it,' was the reply." We laughed at Q 's story, but declared that it must have been manufactured on the spur of the moment, as the Canadian officials are noted for their kindness and courte.S}' to those of our sex. This conversation was interrupted by the arrival of Isaacs, 222 ■m\ ft!!; n o < o a. Q lj I- z o H CO ul X \- a. o 1 (' u 11 i, 224 Two Women in the Klondike ^r-' I »'■) ) . i ! il 1 '1 t ; '/, ^ whose face has been beaming with smiles since the appoint- ment lade bj- M . " Just came to see if I could bring water or wood for you ladies."' — " No, thank you, Isaacs, we have been well cared for." — " Good-morning, then, but call upon Zeke for anythink you likes, an' 'e '11 'ave a chance of hentertaining you yet, .uid in fine style, too." For lunch- eon, we opened a tin of tomato soup, and had warmed-over fish with evaporated potatoes, followed by prunes. Von M came with a bucket of fresh water. K brought us a large bag of kindling chips, but there was no sign of Jones, who had promised to row me to town at two o'clock to record my claim. At seven he made his appearance with Mr. A , of Chicago, whom we had met on the trail. The latter had returned only the previous night, and, after having thoroughly prospected many creeks, had struck it enormously rich and had come back not only to record, but to tell us where to stake. While E was having a private business conversation with the partner of M , who has left for his claims on Quartz, Jones had time to apologise for not having turned up at two o'clock to row me over to the Record Office. Someone had stolen his boat, or rather " borrowed " it, and he had spent the entire afternoon with one of the mounted police .searching for it, only to see, towards evening, " two kids " leisurely rowing home in it. "I tell you I was hot with rage," said Jones, " and would 'a' had them arrested right then ai.a there, onh' I found that their mother was a poor lady keepin' a restaurant for a livin', .so I could n't do it ; but I just .says to her, ' Mebbe you think I ain't hot 'cause I talks .so perlite to a lady, but I had an engagement at two o'clock that I wouldn't 'a' broken for the world, and I don't know what them ladies '11 think o' me. Now you 've either got to promise to give them kids o' yours a good talk- in' to, or I '11 have to take them in hand. Why, they could 'a' drifted right down to Circle.' " Later we heard a great shouting and ordering, as though a regiment were being drilled, and rushed to the tent door to catch our fir.st glimpse of a real dog team at work hauling logs. The sun was in ^ '1 li a z < -I o z o I 05 OC UJ > Ul I H O z o t/5 < T! 1 • ■ iM, ''(I > i i : I , Id ii :|W K:^! 126 Two Women in the Klondike such a position that no picture couhl be taken at the time, but it was a most interesting sight, as tlie clogs appeared to work with a will. Ivan seemed to understand, and disap- peared lest he should be enrolled in service, just as my cabin- boy on the barge did as we approached a wood-pile on the river, after calling out to one of liis chums, " Wood to be cut ! those who don't want to work had better make them- selves scarce." J , K , Dr. H , and Jones spent the evening, K — — said he had just been making a batch of bread, and E exclaimed, " Oh, do show me how you make it up here, and I '11 do some myself, for goodness knows whether we Ml ever get another cook. The men are all so wild to go on the trail that they turn up their noses at five dollars a daj' and grub ; besides, I love to cook, and Mrs. H is most appreciative and never finds fault if things don't come out right." " That 's the way we all have to be up here," said J . " We can only say in the most polite manner possible, ' This bread is awfully good, but don't you think it would be better for a little more .salt ? But it 's delicious all the same ! ' or ' This pie is as heavy as lead, but I could n't begin to make anything so nice myself ; and then we must find lots to praise aljout it or straightway the messmate throws up the job and one has to cook for himself, and you know there are some lazy fellows who hate to do anj-thing." " That 's easily cured iti France," said the Doctor. " Da you know how they fix the fellows in jail who won't work ? They put them in a cell and let in the water, but give them a pump, and if ever they stop pumping they drown, .so they dare not stop. So you 're going over to town to-morrow, Mrs. H , to record claims. Well, don't touch a drop of water while you 're there, because the water even from the creek flows first over the bones of a tribe of dead Indians." — " What a yarn ! " — " No, it 's an honest fact. Don't you see that i-teep embankment over there ? That was formed by a slide which buried an entire Indian village." — " How long ago ? " — " Oh, about a hundred years or .so." " I saw two bears on top of that embankment yesterday." ■li Our Helpful Ncii^dibours I -1 y — " Now, Mrs. II , that 's a yarn ! You mean horses, although I don't see how tliey could have climbed there." "No, they were n't horses," I stoutly protested; "they were bears, real, live bears, on the very steepest part, and I watched them from this side for some time." As the in- credulous ones laughed, good John came to my rescue, saj'- ing, " Yes, I seen 'em, too, and would 'a' gone for 'em if I 'd ^^''..^.m^M^r^p'^ r \ ^^Hn^|Hp- .jin! II, ,|j,||wujpp- „ S^mL ''^_„W^ i ^KK^^^-'m^-. Jk ^^^fflr^ '^^ -.^---^ ^PjT^f^H •>w^^'-'2~'<|M| ii / ^^mii^^^^r**m . ^. t _ ,^^H^| k ^HTn^iH 1/ 'SHI '^^^ Hk^' '^ ^'^S^- V ' ^m\ i LEARNING TO CHOP WOOD. 'a' had my rifle." Then the little company really became excited and begged me to call them the very next time these animals made their appearance, promising me some of the finest bear-meat ever tasted. " Now, little one, what can I do for you next before .saying good-night, for I 'm off to my tent?" I ga.sped in astonishment at the new appellation, but dared not quarrel with so kind a friend and a.ssistant, so begged him to go to the spring and get us some fresh v- If I'; Hi '^i'.i 1 \ , II 1 i ) 1 il t H 1 i m , 1 1 1 'i ! « i |ii m '• I' ir ,t i' i; I 'J.I > ii hiv: i.ii. tf * i, 228 Two Women in the Klondike water. In passing, he whispered to me, " I seen them little fists o' yours clench when I said ' little one.' They could n't hurt a flea, an' I ain't afraid o' them, an' don't you be afraid o' John, 'cause he would n't touch a hair o' your head, Init somehow or other I have a kind o' weakne.ss lor you what makes me always want to speak kinder tender-like to you, but it don't mean nothin' for you to take ofience at. You just tell me what you don't want me to saj' and don't you never be afraid o' John. Good-night ! " Saturday, August 2otli. ' ' Good-morning, ' ' .said the Doctor. ' ' Anybody up yet ? ' ' Mr. Jones's voice was next heard, asking what he could do for us. He got us water, chopped wood, and made himself generally useful. " Here 's your bread-board. jMay I l)ring it in ? " .said Mr. K . " I think you 're going to have a fine batch ! Can I help you ? Well, then, I must go back and wash my di.shes." Then came Von I\I , with his offer to help. " That bread will not be ready in time for luncheon, j-ou 'd better let me lend you a loaf of mine. I 've just finished it, and I make better bread than anyone el.se in West Dawson," .so off he ran, and, as he returned with it, we heard him say to K , " Now you just come in and turn green with envy as you hear he praise I '11 get for this bread." Forewarned in time, we appreciated it to the fullest extent, while K s:iid, " Yes, but just look how it sinks in the middle." " Never mind, young man, wait until you can .show us something better." " What are you going to do with all your papers, magazines, and hooks when you leave?" asked Q , entering. "Divide them among our kindly, helpful neighbours ; but our papers are so old now," said I. " That cuts no figure — you just try being shut in here this winter with nothing to read and see how nice even the oldest papers will seem." — " Well, you 'd bet- ter take your portion now," and they rapidly gathered them up, not taking the time even to pick or clioo.se. " How 's the bread getting on ? X and I have come back to help you knead it, and to finish up all the small n I 1 Our Helpful Neighbours 229 chores, now that our housework is done, ' ' and they set to work with such a will that the tent soon looked cleaner than ever since the day of arrival. " Von may have lunch for that," said K ; " which do you prefer, tomato soup, minced clams, or macaroni and cheese ? " — " Oh, can't we have some of each ? " — " Not a bit of it. We can't afford to open any more tins than necessary before the arrival of our stores." DOQS HAULING LOGS. " They all sound so good it 's hard to choose," wailed K . The menu was soon decided upon. I prepared the table, Von M opened the tins, K cut the loaf of bread, brought the butter, filled the tin cups with water, and we sat down with such appetites that we soon finished two tins of macaroni and cheese. We used the same plates for our bean salad, and then indulged in the luxury of clean tin plates for Bartlett pears. K and E washed the di.shes while Von M and I cleared the table and put the things f' 230 Two Women in the Klondike f,.j I' away, atid tlien practised the zither, Von M playitip^ ex- quisitely. How straiij^e it seems to find so much talent and so many college graduates in this part of the world, and how they laugh over their cooking and housekeeping cares, and what a huge joke it seems ! Yet it all combines to make up the curious life of which so many at home read with intense interest, never knowing the details that form the character of a Klondike King, or are the cause of the return of disap- pointed, broken-hearted miners. " Is this Mrs. H ? " and a head appeared at the tent door. " Kxcu.se me, but someone said j'ou wanted to take a picture o' my dog tean' an' if you really do they 're haul- ing a log for me now and i '11 fix them any way you want them to stand." Out we rushed, Von M armed with camera, I with Kodak, and took views not only of the dog team, but also of some of our neighijours' tents and cabins. " What a magnificent dog! " called out a passer-by; " he 'd draw as much as a whole team together." " Have you ladies any .sweetened milk?" said a strange voice. " My partner 's ill, and needs .some, an' the folks say you have everything. Thank you so much ! shall I pay for it now, or retur.i it to you later ? What ! give it to me ? But I don't like to take it. Well, if you insist ; but it 's mighty good of you. No, I can't think of nothin' else. It 's hard to make him eat." Finally, as the last of our visitors disap- peared, our good neighbour Jones arrived, saying, " I knowed yer 'd be a-needin' me for to git yer up a fire for to cook yer dinner and so I just rowed across from Daw.son. Don't 3'ou want me to make yer up .some nice biscuit?" The dishes were soon prepared and cooked. We seated our- selves at table and ate with the usual hearty appetite, insist- ing upon Jones remaining to share our modest fare. " Let me ' bust ' j-our biscuit for you," said he, as I took one from the plate which E passed me. " Them little fins o' yourn ain't strong enough for that. I can't help it. Miss V ," said he, glancing at E . " It just .seems as though .she 'd orter be waited on all the time. She 's got some 1 ind o' electricity that makes nie feel like talkin' ^ Our Helpful Nci'^hbours 2.^,1 tender-like to her. Now you sit still and lemnie wash the dishes, coz she can't do it, an' you 'vc worked hard all day." But here I protested, put on an apron, heated the water, and worked witli a will. In the niiilst of it, while Jones was wiping the tin plates and cups, and I, with sleeves rolled up, was deep in dish- water, E called out, " Do come in here ; Mr. \V is approachitii^ tlie tent with a strange man." The handsome youth introduced his friend Mr. M to E , then said, *' May n't I come behind the .screen and shake hands with you ? Besides, I 'm awfully good at washing dishes ; do let me help you " ; so, with two assistants, the kitchen was soon in apple-pie order, and we were seated in steamer-chairs, while the men threw themselves on rugs, or on the gra.ss in the reception-room. Jones in.sisted upon going over to town to do our commi.ssions and returned with steak, coal-oil, and the graphophone, which had been again repaired for us. I'lveryone wanted to hear it, and l^etween the 7\\u- IT a. UJ '■*l ■ :i .1 I H r 234 Two Women in the Klondike Rev. Dr. D- m I \ ■ arrived with two friends from Dawson. T tolled the hell, and the little congre^^ation soon assembled. Service over, we had a little chat with Mrs. \V , the lady who had been told to go to the other door of the po.st-oflice. She also was anxious to meet Mr. M , and wanted us to introduce him. We said that he h.ad invited us to go on the trail to Sulphur the following morning, but that we should not be able to, and she quickl}- replied that she would be very glad to act as sulistitute. The last member had gone, the tent flap was drawn down, when M and R— — called out, " Open the door, we 've come to church. What ! over already ! We heard you ladies needed a cook, so we 've come to get up a nice dinner for you. You show us what you 've got and we '11 do the rest, but we must start the music-box first and work to .slow mu.sic. Oh I by Jingo! is n't it nice to come to a place where a fellow feels as he would at home ! If you only knew what an un- usual thing it is out here." While talking they rolled up their sleeves and went to work. M made the most de- licious lingli.sh muffins I ever tasted. R chopped wood and heated the tomato soup ; IC broiled a beefsteak, fried potatoes, and heated some corn. I prepared the table ; the easiest lot always falls to me as, luckily, no one will have me " fussing round in the kitchen." We finally .seated our selves, K and R on one bench, M and I opposite. Such funny stories, such laughter, such Klondike expres- sions, as, " Please give me another throw at the potatoes," etc. — " I .say, are you going to have ice-cream to-night ? I thought so, for the boys are all hunting up their fur coats to wear. Now you ladies .sit perfectly still, as we 're going to clear the table and wipe the dishes." We took them at their Die an laved word and played ladies while they hustled about until M came back and .said, " Please, ma'am, the work 's all finisned. May we have an afternoon off, as we 're invited to get a din- ner for another party at five? " — and off they rushed full of animal life and spirits, enjoying every moment of their slay in the Klondike, and helping others to do the same. Isaacs's head next appeared. ' ' I thought as 'ow you ladies a } a Our Helpful Ncii;lil)ours 235 might have no further use for that 'aniess you bought for me to carry your pack to Ivl Dorado, and p'r'aps you inight not mind giving it to me." " Yes," said !•< , " for a consideration, as we should he ol)hged to purchase another to have our goods taken over the ' Pass.' " He fnially got it, however, and went off contented — for the moment. Dr. V arrived from Dawson, l)riiiging with him a Mr. A who had a note of introduction to IC . We were inter- rupted by the arrival of our fellow-pas.seuger ii, , who had left us at Circle. He was accompanied by another pas- senger, P , who was out for the first time after quite an attack of illness. They were (juickly followed by \'ou M , R , D , K , and K . vS had brouglit an immen.se lot of ice for the ice-cream ; some of the " boys " stole radishes and young turnips from J 's garden, hold- ing him until the deed was done ; others cut bread, others spread it with l)utter, and between us we made sardine .sand- wiches, ice-cream, and had some of IC 's delicious cake. There was a scramble for the paddle, as usual, as it was taken ircm the freezer before the ice-cream was packed. Von M was the lucky man, but was not allowed to lick it in peace, for he was chased by several of the " boys," who in- sisted that their hard work entitled them to the honour of cleaning the paddle. " I say," said one, " have you heard that peace has been declared?" " Oh, yes," said Von IM . " America 's suing for peace, and Spain has been rather noble in granting most advantageous terms." So they cliaffed ; and here, on the 22d of Augu.st it is quite impossil)le for us to tell whether our dear ones are still in the thick of the fight or at home once more. We were also told of the death of Bismarck, but it is as likely as not to be untrue. After the ' ' boys ' ' had washed the dishes and put everything in order, and two of them had gone to get us buckets of water, the " sour dough " bringing his from the .spring, the " Chee Charker " his from the Yukon River, and l)eing heartily laughed at for his pains, we all gathered around on the benches, with our ell)ows on the table ; someone called, " Douse the glim," in response to which ele- IT ^ i V¥\ w ■ ■ i ■1 ■ ( It 136 Two Women in the Klondike i] I ' '( : .f ,H I > V i Sniit language the candles were blown out, the lanterns turned down, and many stories were told. K . who had slipped away during tlie 1 itter part of a ghost story, out of sight but not out of hearing, appeared with a shovelful of fire on which he had put salt, alcohol, and other ingredients, which cast such a ghastly glow over each member of the party that we shouted for the lights to be turned up, and were so nervous that as we said good-night we longed for Mr. Jones to stand guard again. " Well, all your grand visitors gone?" we heard a mo- ment afterwards. " I knowud they were tellin' ghost stories by the glims being dousjd, an' thinks I to myself, they '11 be .scared to death and want Jones to look out for them to- night, so I don't mind roUin' up in my fur robe an' .sleepin' on the outside." This offer was most eagerly and gratefuUj- accepted. " Win- did n't you come in before ? "— " Oh, coz yer did n't want John, and he can't stand them ' Bah Jove ', dudes, Now as for you ladies, you never puts on no airs, an' you makes a fellow feel like you did n't notice his mis- takes, an' they ain't nothing in the world he would n't do for you. M wanted me to row him over to see you, but he would n't come nothcr, 'coz he did n't want to meet no dudes. You didn't think about John anyway, little one," said he confidentially. " I just sat down in the tent and listened to your laughter all the afternoon an' it did me good ; coz if I was n't enjoyin' myself, I knowed you was, and I like to .see you happy. Mrs. T went over to town for the day, so I went to slc-p in her tent to the music of your laugh. vSaved me some ice-cream! Well, j'er did think o' John after all, an' me a-thinkin' you 'd forgot him an' was only listenin' to the dudes ! Well, good night, Miss V ; good night, little one, and don't you be .skeered ; just re- member John 's outside here and one call from you would fix any ghost that ever walked." Monday, August 22(1. The sun wakened us liright and early, and our chatter and preparations for breakfa.st roused the guard outside in Q 111 h- Z < -i m\ ill -1 I § li K 238 Two Women in the Klondike ), .,1 ■t ■fit l.i \ i ■ Mil' the big tent, who was soon ready to get wood and water for his two adopted children, as he now calls us. As we sat down to l)reakfast, he said : " Talk about j'our ghost stories ! win-, I could tell you some as is ghost stories, that has happened to me ; some as would make your hair start right up on end. Why, I was cabin-boy when I was only seven years old, and then I made long trips bj' rail ' hoboing it ' (I never did no swingin' under), met plenty of the boys laying their scraunches down and taking gappings, when thej'- come home awful tired — that 's what they call restin'. Well, I ain't a-goin' to eat no more o' j-our grub," said he, as he finished breakfast and helped wash di.shes ; " 't ain't right ; if I can't wait on you two ladies without taking your grub, I 'd oughter be ashamed o' myself — fact. Gimme your list now. I 'm going over to do commissions," and off he went for coal-oil and other articles. ' ' Why did n't you come to church yesterday, Dr. H ? ' ' said we, as he apjieared at the door. " Oh, I 'm awfully bus}' now ; had all my washing to do yesterday, and then I 've bought out half-interest in the brewery. Studied tliat for tliree months before going to Japan. Awfully paying thing ; pays much better than medicine. Plenty of illness in Dawson, but the patients are all too poor to pay any- thing. Most of them get ill because they 've not enough money to pay for food. One does n't come out here for philanthropy, nor for one's health, and one can't get more than five dollars a visit at the hospital. Surprising one can make such good beer out of rice ! We just put it in Ijottles and let it ferment for a day or two. I 'm going to make my fortune now, and give up medicine for a while. If there 's nothing I can do for you, I '11 go home and wash dishes. J says you gave them a fine ice-cream supper last night ; wish you had asked me. Let me know when you give an- other, won't j-ou ? " 5 P.M. Jones has just returned from Dawson carrying a big five-gallon can of coal-oil, and sundrj' other necessaries. He presented the following itemized bill covering his purchases : 1 1 Our Helpful Neighbours Coal-oil $10.00 I can peaches 75 5 pomuls pilot bread 1.25 I Yz pounds cheese i .oo $13.00 239 "1 m I Dawson prices are dropping, as is shown by the above bill, on account of so many steamers comini; \\\ daily — all but the Ladue steamer. Some Indians pas.sed and peeped in at the door. A tramp looked in at the front door and disap- peared. I went behind the screen and into the kitchen and found him at the entrance of the back door, but he beat a retreat with never a word. Truly the place is changing ! Even the miners acknowledge that they can no longer leave their gold-dust out in tomato-cans. Things disappear mys- teriously. The boats are bringing in too many " Chee Charkers " and there is talk of a miners' meeting. If we were to air one or two grievances over mi.ssing articles the vStorm might burst, and we be allowed to see a lifeless body dangling from a tree, or a solitary man put on a raft and set afloat down-.stream with tlie .swift current to carry him to an unknown destination to begin life once more. 8 P.M. Jones helped get dinner and remained under pro- test to partake, saying that he was " eatin' too much o' your grub anyhow." W came over in time to join us, after which Jones insisted upon washing dishes and assi.sting \\ while W and I went for a tramp around our island. On our return Jones begged me to go for a " boat-ride" to see a raft of which E and I could build a house, as we could get the land for nothing, and the raft would be sold clieap. I was expecting Von M to teach me to develop photographs, so gave E a policeman's whistle with which to call me when he came, carrying one myself to an.swer her call. The night was perfect, the stars shining, and had it not l)een for the strong current a daily boat-ride would have been blis.sful, but contending against a current of six or seven miles an hour made the exertion of rowing so great that accepting an invitation seemed too much of an imposition. ¥/t I 1)1 -w ;,il < ! 1 u ■! III. 11 li 1 240 Two Women in the Klondike Scarcely had we reached the raft when tlie whistle sounded and we floated down-stream to the landing, where Mr. W- was waiting to assist me in scrambling up the steep embankment. This gymnastic performance would l)e more easily accomplished were it not for the impediment of skirts. Society is not educated up to it, nor is the writer, but really the only way of getting about in this part of the world, sensiijly and without accident, is garbed in bloomers. We developed no jihotographs nor did we make the attempt, as we became wildly excited over the pos.sibilities of a business scheme. 1 .' 1 'I' H ■'II! -v^ i CHAPTER XXI A NEW SCHEME ON the previous day, we had mentioned before Von M and a number of the " boys " that, in accord- ance with a request from M , we had brought a bowling alley and an aniraatoscope with which he declared he could make his fortune and our own within six months, as neither had 3'et been seen in Dawson. It was distinctly understood, however, that they were not to be placed in liis hands until after certain inquiries had been made at the end of our jour- ney. For reasons not necessary to state here, we had de- cided not to turn over to him the many articles purchased, but to make some other disposition of them. Immediately, several of the " boys " had expressed a strong desire to take the matter in hand, and we agreed to consider their proposi- tions. Von M had been to town early in the morning, had visited the few halls there, and had numerous plans to lay before us. " We 're not any of us up here for our health," said he, " and there are several who would be glad to go into this thing, and push it, on a business-like basis." W also became intensely interested as we looked over the magic- lantern slides, and made out the list of moving pictures which all pronounced wonderfully good. Von M was to be manager, W to take tickets and weigh the gold-dust. " Let us get M to do the ' talkee-talkee ' because he 's so jolly," said they. " Who shall we have to manage the lights ? " " Oh, hurry and start it," said E , " because >6 241 24: Two Women in the Klondike S) 1MI Mrs. H has promised to leave for home early in Sep- tember, and I want to see the show before we go." August 23(1. Von M was on hand before 10 a.m. and helped us prepare breakfast. After giving Von IM the address of a man who had been for eight years engaged in a bowling alley, and that of another who has charge of an acetylene plant, he left, and I went to Dawson with kindly Jones as boatman. I went directly to Mr. W , the head of the lumber department, to ask if we might have a permit to build a cabin in We.st Dawson, and where. " Just wherever you please," he replied. " But they tell me that there are men waiting to build even where our tent stands and that courtesy alone keeps them from asking for the land upon which we have squatted," said I. " You just build your cabin wher- ever you plense, my dear madam. There 's no record of anything of that kind ; and I shall see that you are not dis- turbed." "How about building on this side?" said I. " Well, this lot, for only this small cabin, cost thirty thou- sand dollars, but I might be able to secure you one for three hundred dollars, as you won't care to be on the principal street. I '11 look about for a fine location, and let you know what can be done," .said he. On leaving his office I was joined by the dentist who had given me a " straight tip " on the trail, and he asked if I had .staked tho.se claims, but I told him that I was just about to record something better. He reminded me of his request to be introduced to M , and was di.sappointed to know that the latter had started off to Sulphur. I next met W , who accompanied me to the Alaska Connnercial Company, which was just closing its door for the noon luncheon, so we sat outside on the board walk until the sound of an incoming steamer roused the crowd and we all walked towards the wharf. Four steamers are in together. The harbour is becoming very gay, and the " Chee Charkers " numerous. We went to the office of the Johnson-Locke Company to .see if we li ' l\' If^'^ A New Scheme !43 could get news of the Tillamook and our stores. Tlie\' knew nothing of the Tillamook, but said that the Rideoiii, the Company's river-boat, was reported at Circle City three days ago, and was likely to be here in forty-eight hours. Our hopes are now liigli that we will soon be oflf short rations and living in luxury. " What day for the big dinner?" asked M and R as we met them and told them the good news. Mr. L, S then joined us ; he had been " in " for ten days, and advised us not to remain later tlian the middle of September if we did not wish to be frozen in. He opened a fine illustrated paper, Klondike lidition, with pictures of the Bonanza Kings, and as we looked over his shoulders and criticised, a crowd soon formed in a .semicircle close l)ehind us, for the sheet cost one dollar, and manj- had not that amount to pay. One o'clock, and time for the Record Office to open, so W accompanied me there. Being a woman, I had the privilege of entering the little side door into the small ante- room, where my escort and I seated ourselves on a bench, and waited for the window to open. One of the officials .said in a gruff voice to W , " You must go to the other door and wait at the end of the line," to which he replied court- eously, " I beg your pardon, but I have no claim to record ; I 've only come to accompany Mrs. H ." The official grunted, and whispered to one of the women at the desk that no one else .should be allowed to enter except on payment of twenty dollars. My companion and I stole a glance at each other, and he whispered, " I feel like one in an intelligence office, waiting for a job, and wondering what is going to happen to me, doti't you?" — "Worse than that. I 'm afraid of not being mild and .servile enough." Just then a nice young boy who had been particularly courteous to me on a previous vi.sit, came in my direction and I said to him, " Why can't jw^ record my claim for me ? " — " Becau.se the fellow who does that is bigger than I and might put me out. You just go right in and tell him wliat you want. Don't be afraid. He 's ill, but he 's all right." So I sununoned my courage and timidly approached his desk, saying meekly. 244 Two Women in the Klondike !(i " Won't you please record my claim ? " " I 'm not readj' for business yet," he replied, not gruffly, but in such a tired manner that I felt sorry for him at once, and said, " When you are, please let me know. I shall be sitting on the bench back of you." A few minutes later he opened the window, and began taking papers from the men outside, apparently oblivious of my presence. My escort glanced at me as though we were two naughty school children being punished for too much presumption, and whispered, " Why don't you go? Don't you dare ? ' ' The young woman at the desk motioned " Now 's your chance " ; the nice young boy beckoned, but still I was afraid, and said, " He told me he would let me know when business was about to begin." — " You '11 have to wait all day, if you don't stand right up to him," so with a mighty effort I once more approached the great man, who did look so ill, writing with one hand and supporting his head by the other ; I felt that I might be contrary, too, shut up in that office with a throbbing head. " Well," said he, turn- ing to me as he finished with Number One on the line. " I want to record No. — , Quartz Creek, Indian River Dis- trict, please." " There are four contestants for that claim already," said he, referring to his book, " four Swedes." — " But if they have not had it recorded, why can't I?" " How can I do it for you, if I can't for them ? " snapped he. " It 's got to be resurveyed. You 'd only lose your fifteen dollars, as well as your rights in that district." — " Oh, I 'm not going to fight four poor miners, so let it go, and record No. — , Bear Creek." — "Which side? Upper or lower? Next Gulch ? " Having answered all these questions sat- isfactorily I was just congratulating myself that at last I was to receive the bit of paper entitling me to another claim in the Klondike, when he said, " Where 's your miner's cer- tificate ? " "It is No. — ," said I, pleasantly. "But where is it ? " — " Why, I did n't bring it with me ; I got it only a few weeks ago from the young man at that window ; he can tell you that it 's all right." " But I nm.st have it to record this deed." Then in despair I cried out, " How . 1 Vi A New Scheme 245 i can I tell all that you want in this office ? You should piii)- lish a set of rules and regulations. I took the trouble to come all the way from West Dawson last week and after losing a whole afternoon and answering a thousand and one (juestions, because I could n't tell you on which tier I had staked, you sent me back to get my lesson over again, and now you want me to go all the way back to get my certifi- cate, when I bought it right here in this very office from that young man, who can tell you so." This outburst completely astonished his royal highness, and evidently fearing that I was about to bur.st into tears, he said quickly, " All right, all right ; here 's your paper, and you can send j-our certificate to-morrow." I breathed a sigh of relief, clutched the .slip, presented my fifteen dollars, and was about to walk out in triumph when a stern voice said, " Go to the next desk and hand in your paper." This official, however, was so kind that I felt restored to peace with the world again, and was most grateful to him for the pleasant words addressed to me, but became despondent as he finished and said, " Next desk, please." I rai.sed my eyes, caught a ])leasant glance, and all was .smooth sailing until the question, " On what date did you stake these claims ?"—" Why, I don't remember." "Can't you tell me approximately?" he asked. His encouraging .smile helped me so that I was able to say, " We started on the trail on Monday the fifteenth, and got back late Friday night."—- " It nuist have been about Wednesday, then, was it not ? " And, this .stumbling-block removed, I heard him repeating (as he wrote) something of which I onlj' caught, " Best of my knowledge and belief," " Signs of gold," and as he wrote the last word he held up a book of which I did not see the name and said, " Touch it." I only remember saying, "That 's all right," .signing my name, handing over the fifteen dollars which had been burning a hole in my pocket, saying " good morning," and then rushing out to my escort with a " Tliank the Lord it 's all over, and now I 'm a mil- lionaire claim-owner, i)ut poor Miss V will have to go through with this ordeal to-morrow." " Well, by Jove ! I '11 I- 1 m (y/r Hi H \ iff' V t ' I ), .. ' i ' i f ■1 " ' \ JJL il i!.,H-< 246 Two Women in the Klondike never stake a claim if I "vl- got to stand in line and he tr^iated like that," said \V . " It makes one's l)lood hoil, and I 'm not going to he fleeced ont of twenty dolhirs for private admission, citlier." As we walked down Dawson's Main vStreet, we were joined hy F and C- , and had a pleasant little chat, the latter heing ont for the first time after qnite an illness. They l)oth expressed a desire to i)ay ns a visit, bnt as they owned no boat it was rather a difficult thing to do. We stopped at a butcher's and bought kidneys at one dollar a pound, then went to the laundry to inquire why our linen had not licen returned. ,Same old reason — no boat. We met a lot of the " boys," who said, " Mr. Jones has been hunting all over Dawson for you, and thinks you 've gone back." " Let me row you over," said the Doctor." " No, I a.sked first," interrupted J ; but as they were discus.sing the question Jones appeared, and whispered, " Whenever yer gits through with yer dude friends, John 's ready to take yer back." So they e.scorted me down the embankment to the boat. Hardly were we out of hearing when my good boatman said, " I knowed yer had a date with that there red necktie (W ). I never give anybody as many boat-rides as I give you, an' yer .shakes me ez .soon ez yer gits on the other side." We found }\ being entertained by Mr. T , whom .she left to prepare luncheon for the wi-ary tramps from town. Hardly were we seated ere Mr. H arrived, followed b}- Dr. C and W , who all remained to prepare dimier for us. Each one had a special dish to cook, while I, as usual, prepared the table. Our />n-a' dc resistance was kidneys stewed with bherr}', over which great satisfaction was expressed. After our guests had wa.shed the dishes and put the kitchen in fine order we .settled in .steamer chairs and on boxes, warmly wrapped, to relate .startling tales. Just then Von M ap- peared, .saying, " I 've got lots to tell you, but I 'm starving and nuist first go and get supper ; just thought I 'd .stop at your tent to say I 'm coming back." " Nonsense !" we cried; " we 've finished dinner and there 's nothing left but some bread and butter ; how would sardines and a cup of coffee go T ^ If.'V.' f ." i A New Scheme 247 with that ? " " Fine ! what luck I you are sure you don't mind ? " " vSit down and stop talkinj; aud you '11 have all you call eat in a jiffy! " ,So he was handed a tin of sardines with half a dozen slices of bread and butter. K then came in, saying, " Do you mind lendinjj^ me my bread-board for a little while ? My l)re:id 's all ready for it." We asked him to .sit down, but he refused, feariu'^ that his bread PREPARINQ DINNER would spoil, and off he went, thanking us " for the loan " of his own board. lie .soon brought it back, however, and we gathered around Von M to hear his experiences. " I 've been to everj- hall in town. I 've talked to everj' proprietor, and have just finished a conversation of two hours with . I asked him how much he would pa)' me to bring such an attraction to his theatre ; he .said he would furni.sh hall and lights, and expect fifty per cent, of the net proceeds. f 248 Two Women in the Klondike r J ■ 1 '■i 1 h i We can jjet tlie Pioticer Hall for fifty dollars a iiif^ht and probal)ly for less if we take if for any k-nj^^th of time, hut that 's off the Main Street. It wonkl be l)etter to pay twice as much on the principal street where crowds congregate. We can have Pioneer Hall from 2 I'.M. to 2 a.m., whereas the man who wants half-profits can let lis have the theatre only from 2 to 6 r.M." " Oh, that 's absurd," we cried ; " we to bring out the most expen.sive outfit to be had in San Fran- ci.sco, to have all the trouble of selecting, learning to run it, learning to prepare lime-light, paying freight, duty, etc., and he to have fifty per cent. Should n't dream of it for an in- stant," and so we discussed the matter and looked over the magic-lantern slides. "What shall we call our company?" .said one. "It must have a grand name, .seeing that it is to be run by ari.s- tocrats of America and Kngland," said W . " What a lark it will be ! What would our people at home say ? " — " They all know we 're not here for our health, and if this is better than a gold mine, why should we have any false pride about it ? " " False pride, ridiculous ! " I cried; " I .shall be a thousand times more proud of going back with an inex- haustible sack of gold earned by my own efforts than if the winter had been passed in idleness in New York, Pari.s, or London. I 'm ready to work in such good company, and I 'm proud of it. Besides, the poor fellows who are shut up here and have had no chance to see and scarcely to read anything of the war, ought to be able to see the processions of soldiers on the way to Manila, the funeral of the Mai)ie victims, the pictures of our heroes — and it will be a great pleasure to .show an animato.scope to them." " I want to work, too," said E— — . " I just want to show my family that I know how to do something and it would be a proud moment for me to carry home a bag of my own earnings — and I want it all in gold dust, too." As we talked and dis< cussed, the time passed so rapidly that midnight came before we were aware, and there was a general stampede to boats by those who lived in Dawson, and to cabins by their fashion- able occupants in West Dawson. li" A New Scheme >49 Wednesday, August 24th. Breakfast finished, our kind neighbour Jones rowed IC — to Dawson at ten o'clock to record her claims and attend to comniissions. As they left. Miner C — — appeared, sayinjf, " I 've been down to look at the claims belonging to you ladies near Bonanza, and have come to see about working them for you. I 'm going out prospecting to-morrow, and if I find anything good shall let you know before anyone else gets a chance to stake." Jones soon returned, saying, " I left one of my children over in Dawson and cum back for to get lunch for the other, CO/. I knew she 'd starve to death or die o' thirst before she 'd lift her hands to git anything for herself," and so the kind fellow made a fire, prepared a nice luncheon, and laid the table, while I tried to continue my oft-interrupted journal. "Are you thirsty?" said he. " Awfully," and down he rushed to the spring with a bucket and on return filled me a tin cup of the delicious beverage. Luncheon fini.shed, Mr. T arrived with a Mr. B , who was anxious to have our bowling alley and animatoscope, and wanted to know what terms we would make. I said we were not making terms, but were willing to consider all bids placed before us during the week, with the intention of accepting the most advantageous. Mr. B requested permission to be allowed to put in his bid, and towards evening it came in the follow- ing form : " Dawson, August 23d, 1898. " lyAniKS — I have the honour to submit the following bid, viz. : For some time past I have been meditating upon the feasibility of taking charge of your bowling alley and kineto- scope. I have canvassed the town thoroughly for a suitable location and find I can secure one in a most desirable part for one thousand dollars a month, but, as a security for mov- ing in, will have to pay three months in advance. I have also figured very closely upon the expenses of running such an enterprise, which are no small matter. There will be a large expense fitting up, etc., and the most fair proposition I ■ s \ (J ('( _ 1 '.C-i';/! ■(-■I .i ■ ft' frr. it i ■ k I 1' ^ ,1 , ( \ (" I 1 J/ H . , 'f ^il; 250 Tw(3 Women in the Klondike can place l)efore you, is to take full charge of your business, pay all expenses, give you a suitable bond to cover the vaHie of the appurtenances, etc., and also give you sixty-five per cent, of tlie net receipts. If you find it necessarj' that you should leave this winter, your profits and .share can l)e turned over to your agent or any bank daily — vouchers at- tached. If at any time you wished to be realised, you will have the privilege by giving ine ten days' notice. If others can make a more sincere offer I am at a loss to know how it can be done. " Most re.spectfully submitted, " R. B." What do vou think of it, Mrs. II- - ? " said K -. " I think it is a matter not to be decided upon before the end of the week. What do you say, U ?" — "Quite agree with you. We '11 wait for all the propositions, which are to be submitted to us this week." " They can't be bet- ter than B 's," snid K , " as he expects to turn in to you at least from c'ght thousand to twelve thousand dollars a mouth, and you '11 not have a penny of expense." " We cannot decide before Saturday," we replied, and so the inter- view ended. It was after four when K returned. She had recorded her first claim, had been invited to luncheon at the Regina Cafe by Dr. C , had held a reception all along Main vStreet, being stopped at every corner, and was glad to get back to our easy chairs and to the quiet of our tent. Our next visitors were J and L , the latter having just arrived from Circle City for a day or two in Daw.son. Ivan welcomed him gladl)-, and we were ^ lea.sed to .see the fellow-passenger who had given us oar first oni.iges and lemons and loaned us a fur robe, which he said again he sliouid not need or want us to return until we wei . quite ready to depart. He tried to persuade us to move to tlie American side and settle in Circle or at Kagle City, promis- ing that we should be well looked out for ; but our interests are growi'\g here, in many d'rections, and to leave at all will be difficult. 'i( , j i :" >\ « A New vSchcnic 2=; I " A new cook has come to ^et your supper for you." shouted a cheer\' voice at the door, and jolh' M made liis appearance. " Tliere ain't nohody goiu.u: to cook supper for tliese hidies while John 's here for to do it," said Jones, CROSSIN3 THE YUKON. " .so you can ju.st sit do'.v'u and talk while ?>iiss V tells me what .she wants done. As for that little one, .slie don't know how to cook nolhiu', nohow, an' if she ain't writin' all the time .she talks .so fast that nobody kin stop her, an' il 's better for you to listen to her than /is to be bot'iered with her,'' added Jones, casting side glance;; to see that I thoroughly m wm M.I >. 1 Mi '^. «, i i**fi rfn 252 Two Women in the Klondike understood that he was "joshing," as he calls it. "I 've brought nij' sewing with nie," said M , as he com- menced to cut the cords from his " parquis," and asked for strong thread with which to sew on new ones, " so you go on with your writing while I sew." " Just the time for you to dictate that story to me, then, of the experience you had with the thieves," so I wrote down the following true tale of M 's personal experience : Lynching at Sheep Camp, as Told by a Miner " This is not a ' yarn,' but merely a true outline of Sheep Camp in January, i8g8. Sheep Camp was so called because no one, unless he had the brains of a sheep, would think of staying there, so when our little caravan pulled out of the narrow caiion into the broader valley, which drew all the wind in creation down its funnel-like length, our first thought was for shelter, which offered itself in the shape of a new cabin alongside of which we pitched our tent. What a nasty place that was, menaced by a great blue glacier that hung high on the mountain above us ! Pinched by the cold and beaten by the wind, we dragged out several weeks, tugging our stuff to the summit. At that time of the year, few were sturdy enough in heart to attempt that work which has broken many spirits ere now. When one had staggered to the top and flung down his fifty pounds, he felt that he had at least earned his bread. And what a great lump it was to swallow, after taking his last load to the ' divide,' to find that someone had been before him, and stolen everything ! One would sink in the snow to curse his Maker, while an- other woidd pray. Many a time had it happened, and never a trace of the thieves. The wind blew fair and cold from the north on the 26th, when we reached the sunnnit, and found a friend of the trail, an old man of sixty-five at least, kneeling in the snow, by a trampled, soiled spot, where his provisions had once been. He could not believe that his entire outfit had been taken. The poor old man aeemed dazed with his cruel misfortune, and determined to remain where he was and end his misery by freezing to death. A New Scheme 253 " I^az}', sleepy Sheep Camp rose in a bodj' of indignation, to avenge this last outrage. J , a young Swede of about twenty j-ears of age, one of those thin, pink-skinned, fair- haired and white-eyebrowed chaps, was caught early next morning, drawing a sled, which was identified as the property of a man named P . " During the autumn, P had tried to cross the Lakes before they were frozen, but on finding that it was too late he cached his outfit below Sheep Camp, leaving his partner and a hired man to freight it to the summit, while he re- turned to Juneau on business. The following month, the weather proved so bad and sledding so uncertain, that his partner dismissed the hired man and started in business for himself. Several months later, on going to the cache to get some needed articles, he discovered that a thief had taken the 'whole cheese.' He wrote a 'harum-scarum' letter to P , stating the turn matters had taken, and added that he suspected a man who had just gone over the sunnnit, and whom he intended to track. Of course P thought that his partner had robbed him, not believing the story told, and left the country in disgust. When C (the partner) re- turned after a fruitless search for the thief, he was most in- dignant at the way P had talked about him, and swore to clear himself and find the culprit, even if it were ' the last act of a misspent life.' Months went by without any further developments, until this poor old man was robbed, and then it was that C , in great excitement, stuck his head in the flap of our tent, and with many gesticulations told us all his troubles. " I was then and there deputed with three other men, to go up the trail, and arrest J 's two partners, W W and a man named G . It was perfectly asinine, now that I look back upon it — we four, moseying up unarmed to arrest two men of whom we knew nothing, but neverthe- less in we marched. Their little tent, almost hidden beneath the snow, was shipshape and plainly bespoke the sailor. They were so deuced polite, and so sorry that any mistake had been made, that I felt quite ashamed of my errand, and 1 f B • i i .■}[ II' '54 Two Women in the Klondike i\^h !■ *ii r-i I apologised so profusely that I quite forgot to see whether thuy were armed. All the way into camp I walked beside W , chatting pleasantly, my anger of the morning having entirely passed away, and the sight of a crowd of men iid women awaiting our return took me by surprise. In a mo- ment we were being borne along by the mob, and were crowded into the ' Tent Saloon.' The queer structure con- sisted of a wooden frame and board sides, with a huge tent drawn over it. Already the sun had sunk low, and but little of the twilight filtered through the grimy canvas. Crouched in a corner .sat J , looking so meek and innocent that the presence of judge and jurors, sitting in the gathering gloom, seemed almo.st a farce. Before the prisoners had time even to exchange a glance, the judge appointed guards for each, and sent two of them in different directions, leaving the third (J ) to be tried alone. I can see him now, as he .sat on the bar, above the crowd, surrounded by bottles filled from the same keg, but labelled differently, unwa.shed glasses, and a background of soiled white paper. Then the great kerosene lamp was lit, casting its harsh light straight at the accused. All this left a vivid and never-to-be-forgotten im- pre.ssion upon my mind. " J stated that he and his partner had bought the out- fit in Skaguay and had brought it over in a small boat to Dyea, where they had met G , who had been shipmate with them on the O/rno?/, and, although he had no outfit, they had taken him in on partnership. G was the next to be questioned, and, uidike J , the poor devil was frightened to death. His story came in a jerky, truthful way, and although it did not jibe with J 's, it was hard to believe that either fellow was lying. He had joined them at Dyea, where they were in camp, and having no outfit they suggested that theirs was so large that they might divide ; so, bright and early, the worst da}- in the past month, they all three had moved the entire cache about a mile. He de- scril)ed the place where he first found the cache, which was identical with the one where the stolen goods had been. Further than that he knew nothing, save that they did not H! A New Scheme ■:):> go to the cache for two months and that his partners had i cidentallj- told him that they had bought their outfit in S. aguay. The plot thickened ; and there was quite a nntr- muf of excitement when W ■ was brought to the l)ar — ' bar ' in more senses than one. \V 's story varied little from the first one, save in details of where the transaction had taken place, and the manner of Ijringing it from one town to the other. G was again brought in and asked .some leading questions Ijcfore W . Their eyes met for an in- stant, and then G said in a faltering way that he had told the whole truth, and nothing but the truth. \V— — • wa.s led from the saloon, and as he went, he whispered to his guard, ' We 've l)een shipmates, me an' G , an" he done me a good turn once, .so I want to say, that no matter what they do to J and me, G joined us after the supposed crooked work happened.' " In the street, there was a motley crowd, all ' rubber- necking ' to see the accused, and murnuiriug like the Roman mob in Caesar, or as at a woman's tea. It was clear, and colder than before, with every star shining bright. The little gorge or valley .seemed like a deep crease in a nurse's white apron, and the glowworm-like tents mingled their light with the stars' from their burrows in the snow. As W passed through the crowd, he caught sight of a man holding a rope in his hand, .standing in a corner with a lantern. ' It looks pretty d d bad,' he .said, and walked on half a block without a word. Suddenly, without the slightest warning, he whipped out a pi.stol, fired at his attendant, and fled down the trail. He had evidently mi.s.sed his mark, for there was tlie patter of moccasined feet close behind him, and he fired again over his shoulder. The pursuer fell headlong into the soft snow at the side of the trail. Another shot rang sharply on the air, a flash of light which showed the criminal, .standing for an instant, then .swaying, then came the .sound of a heavy, limp body as it fell in the half-frozen pathway. He had shot himself in the head, the ball entering between the eyebrows. When his guard had tripped and fallen, he had evidently thought that he had killed him, and .seeing riM T^r 'i^ I U,,'. 1' Ml ft :f- fi'^ i I, V 256 Two Women in the Klondike how hopeless his attempt at escape would be, had etided the matter, that is, as far as he could. " Notwithstanding the fact that J had been turned back from the Dj-ea and Skaguaj- trials the previous year for larceny, sympathj- was aroused in his favour and there were tho n-hoeven dared talk against lynching. The jury returned w .ih the verdict, ' J guilty,' and reconnnended a near-by tree. G was ' not guilty,' and therefore to go scot-free. The tent was ' cram-jam to popping,' but each word came as di.stinctly as though it had been spoken in an empty room. Then again, that murmur of conflicting opin- ions. At lea.st a dozen different punishments were sug- gested without approval. A clergyman held up his hand and gave a so-called humane speech — reconunending ' flog- ging.' One life had been taken that night, and it seemed to have awed the assembled nuiltitude, so, after .'^ome discus- sion, it was decided that at noon, next day, fifty strokes should be given with a lash on the bare shoulders. " It was almost light again and the last candle had gone out in that ' glowworm village.' Down at the foot of a hill, two men were building a coffin ; another was lettering a head-board : W W Age 27. But the interest was beyond, where, in a log-cabin, lay the new victim, in appearance absolutely iniconcerned. The room was dark and close. Men shuffled in and .shuffled out. A woman was moving some tin dishes about in a great pan at the end of the room, while in another corner sat a man busily engaged in binding a doul^le rope to a stout club. Noon came and went, and there was some talk of weakening. Half an hour later, however, J was led out, placed be- fore a tall post, and ordered to strip to the waist. I never .saw .so many .shirts in my life. They kept coming off", one after another, like the shells on a Japanese puzzle. I love to be in a fight, and don't mind a black eye, or a few teeth shy, but I did n't like the idea of a man not having an even show, so I ' mushed ' (disappeared). There was a horrible fascina- f n^ A New Scheme '■57 tioii about it, however, and the man was hardlj- lashed to tlie pole before I was skirting the crowd, trying to peer over their heads. PVoni the top of a lumber pile, I saw the first blow descend, and J si)rang up tlie j^ole, like the monkey on the stick. Two great purple stripes showed against the clear white .skin, leaving each twi.st and thread like a print. My chicken heart failed me, and I turned mj- back. I heard the rope wind itself about the fine-cut shoulders once or twice, without any other sound, then came a cry like that of .some wild beast in agou}-. I drove my fingers in my ears, but nothing has ever shut out that one inhuman shriek that echoed down the valley and was repeated .several times. At the tenth .stroke I could .stand it no longer, and without much trouble pushed through the crowd, yelling, ' Knough I enough ! ' like a schoolboy. There was some excitement as I told a friend what I thought on the subject, then a doctor interfered, and said that J had had about as much as he could endure. After enjoying a huge meal, J .strolled down the trail bearing a large .sign, ' Pass me along, I am a thief.' And so is justice admini.stered by miners. An hour later, through the fast-falling snow, a thin, .scrawny bay hor.se passed, drawing a sled with a pine box on it. Less than a dozen men followed it to the .spot where it was de- po.sited in the frozen ground. When the coffin had been lowered, a young man standing at the end of the grave knelt for an in.stant. As he rose he made a short address. Xo one knew the rca/ name of the man who had just been buried or where his poor mother lived. Perhaps it was just as well." li, ;ili« As M ended his pathetic tale, Jones, di.sh-towel in one hand and pan in the other, .shouted, " That 's right, that 's just the way it happened, coz I wuz there, an' I got a piece o' the rope wot they lashed him with, an' I '11 give a bit of it to you two ladies if you want to take it out with j-er, coz it never brought me no luck nohow." Supper was soon on the table, consisting of beef soup, chops and desiccated potatoes, rice cakes, macaroni and hI' m i I ;8 Two Women in the Klondike ^. ) t ) ■ i ', ^'' '\\ I. t, ^ " .1^'' y. i 11 k I 1, 1' cheese, and prunes. \'ou M came in and we settled down to business and talked over the l)ii;' scheme which we expect to coin money for us. We asked \'on M — • — to read over B 's proposition and advise us iVoni an unprejudiced standpoint, but he was square and honest and said, " I can't do it, don't you see, because I want it so much myself, and have such a nice staff of assistants selected : we are not only intending to work for ourselves, but to advance your interests, .so that it seons to nie that no one else could make so much of a success of it. Although I 've never done any- thing of this kind in my life, I shall devote every moment to it, and feel that no one else could do more." The fellow had .shown so much energy, and spent so much time over it, that we felt he really deserved the position. He had secured the option on the O Sisters' Theatre from 2 to 6 wsi. daily for ten dollars a day, and was to find out about getting it after the play in the evening. He had seen many others and placed the proposition before them, and was expecting answers from all sides. He had also seen the men who owned the raft and found that lumber could be purchast-d at one dollar a log, and that the boys were all willing to give us a " building bee," so that it now looks as though we should soon be able to move from this enormous tent with it.s damp ground to a house of our own. Tlmrsday, Augu.st 25tli. Our neighbour Jones did not arrive this a.m. until ten, consequently we were obliged to use the oil-stove, and had no water to drink. He had attended a ball in town, and was not in the humour for house-building, but said he might be after a few hours' .sleep, which he went home to enjoj', after having filled two water buckets for us. Next came Von M to find out what we would contribute towards the hall in case he engaged it. He received the following list ; 1 Animatoscope, gas-bags, and all appurtenances. 2 dozen films of various subjects, ranging from the Maine funeral procession to the Corbett fight. A New Scheme '■59 ■a I Magic lantern, with views of naval heroes, battle scenes, etc. After Inncheon onr visitors were Dr. M , of tlie army, Mr. II , and John Jones. The former said he was very sorry to trouI)le ns, hnt if we no loni;er needed tlie oars that M had borrowed for ns, he should he very glad to have them. " What oars ? " said li ; " we have but one pair, and those we purcha.sed from M , giving him six dollars for them." " Are you not mistaken ? " said the Doctor ; " he came to me, saitl you wanted them onlj' for a .short time, and would .soon return them." K inuuediately searched for and found the l)ill, to the Doctor's great astoni.shment. H was very anxious to have us accept B 's proposi- tion for the animato.scope and l)owling-alle\-, but we would give no answer until Saturday night. Jones was going lo town, and wanted either to give us a " boat-ride acrost," or " do conunis.sions " for us. Of the latter, he was charged with half a do/en at least. After tlieir departure, we had our first uninterrupted hour, and my first letter home since arrival was written ; events crowd each other so in this small place that it has been almost an impossibility to record the half of them. The letter written, there was half an hour before diiuier, of which I took advantage to pay a .short visit to Mrs. B , who has not been at all well. She was as entertaining as usual, however, telling me many .stories of the claims she is accumulating here ; she ought to " go out " a very wealthy woman. I was frightened away by a small mouse which was so tame that it insisted upon playing near my feet. Mrs. B laughed at my fears, and said that it often jumped on her bed. In telling E about it on my return, K and Jones said it was only a " field mouse," and that there were plenty of them, which made me decide to keep Ivan in thi little tent in future, as long as we are only raised from the ground by a few pine boughs. After ditnier Jones had planned to take me down to the raft to select the lumber for our cabin, but the poor fellow had such an attack of rheumatic pains (which I wonder that any one escapes, on account of sleeping so near the damp a i: 260 Two Women in the Klondike ground) that wc sent liim honit; early, licfore leaving he said, " Now that you ladies knows nie so well, and wliat a good disposition I have, why can't you bring me a wife when you come l)ack next sununer ? " " Well, I like that," cried I^ ; ' ' here he passes right over our heads as though we were not good enough, and asks us to bring in someone else." "Now, Miss V , ain't you ashamed o' yourself to josh a poor fellow like that? O' course neither o' you ladies has never seen me dressed up in store clothes, and you don't know how different I looks, but even if I was got up in the finest togs of London, I think you 'd both be too grand to want to know poor John ' on the outside ' ; but, anyhow, this has been a lucky year for me to meet two such beautiful ladies as you, even if you do only want to know nie up here." K helped Iv make her bread, and then said he had to go back and wash dishes before rowing to Dawson for Von M , who had been there all day on our business. CHAPTI'R XXII TIIIv " RIDICCJUT " AT LAST Friday, August 26th. A COLD, sunless lllorIli^l,^ When I ^vt up at seven, in order to have a (juiet hour for writin.i;, the thermometer generally registers fiftj-, and gradually under tlie powerful rays of the sun goes up to seventy by the noon hour, hut now it is below fifty, and this tent is so enormous it is like writing in the open air. The hundreds of dogs that have been bark- ing all night at the sound of each passing footstep are now enjoying a well-earned rest, as are others who have been kept awake by their combined howls which make a veritnble pandemonium. The only sound to l)e heard is that of the saw which an industrious neighbour is using in building his log calkin. About a dozen cabins have been put up dur- ing the few weeks we have been here, and the only place left on which to erect a house is just in front of this tent, and on the space which it covers. We are anxious to commence, as we may not be able to hold the place much longer ; al- though our neighbours are most kind, and glad to protect our rights, still the new-comers are innnerous, and must have land on which to l)uild, so we are hoping that the " boys " will be able to start work to-day. We find to o\ir sorrow that the ground we have staked will encroach on land upon which a man dug a foundation some time ago be- fore going " up the creek." We are sorry to "jump it," but the law allows us 50 x 100 feet and the neighbours say that his four logs laid along his excavation " cut no figure," 261 ■♦ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 i- iiii^ 2.5 IM 1112.2 m Hi US 1.4 2.0 1.8 1.6 ^m y # :t^;i The "Ridcout" at Last 26s as tliouj^^h it wns a good joke." J joined the party, and was iininediatcly consulted as to the site for our new cabin, for although the presL-nt Dawson officials disallow his claim, he has one attorney here, and another in Ottawa, fii^htin.L; the case and may yet come into possession. We much prefer a house on the water-front, but J wishes to keep it for a .street, and loudly proclaims that he will use a shotj^un on I'.r A STREET SCENE IN DAWSON. anyone who puts up a house there ; .so, although the " Crown Timber Agent " says, " Go ahead and build where you like," we respect J 's wishes and avoid his shotgun. Von M arrived full of enthusiasm, for several have offered him space for the bowling-alley, and many are mak- ing fine l)ids for the animatoscope. lie expects to start business at once, now that the Riihout is here with all the outfit necessary for lime-light and other things wdiich are required. ^^■ '' I • i ;' ' t I • i 1 ) 'il II , 1 f 1 266 Two Women in the Klondike Jones rowed IC- Satiirdav, August 27l!i. -over to Dawson to attend to the market- iiii^, leavin<^ nie to prepare Itills and invoices for cnstoni- liouse, assort papers, and have a general cleau-iip. Now that onr goods have arrived, I can keep my promise and leave early in vSeptember for home, for we are told that onr honse can be built in a week or less, and our cargo can be safely stored therein for next sunnuer's use. The owner of the raft came to inquire if the logs were to be delivered before Monday morning. He was sent at once to lloat them down-stream and tie them up to the l)ank, so that the men might begin work earlj' Monday morning. Two men called to ask if we were the ladies about to i)uild a hou.se. If .so, they desired to be engaged as assistants. II called again to .see if we had decided to let his capital- ist B have bowling-alley and animatoscope, but Von M is so hard at work, so nearly ready to begin, and we have such a high opinion of his honour and integrity, that, although H raised his offer from .si.xty-five to .seventy per cent, of the net receipts, we decided to allow the property in question to remain in the hands of Von M . Jones assisted in preparing dinner, which consisted only of beans, nuiffins, and stewed apricots, as our rations have about come to an end. II tells us, however, that we are not likely to get our cargo for some time, as the Johnson- lyocke Company have had .some trouble, and the company here refuses to deliver the freight, except upon repayment of charges. It now .seems that of all the firms we could have selected, it would have been impossible to have .sent our gootls by one which would have given us so much trouble and caused us so much loss and delay. Having already paid them $488.85 for freight from San Francisco " to be lauded in Dawson," it is cheerful to be told that we are likely to have it all .sent back to St. ^lichaels, unless we also pay the Company here. One of our reasons for having faith in them, was the following letter from M : " T telegraphed you this afternoon concerning the John.son- lyocke Company. They are very responsiijle people, well ! ^ ft \ The "Rideout" at Last 267 known ill San Francisco, have gone to great expense to se- cure llie l)LSt trade in the Alaska business. Some of their river-l)oats are already in the Heriiig vSea, at Dutch Harbour, and they can absolutely be relied upon to land freight at Dawson, which is one of the main things outside of your per- sonal comfort on the trip. They only ask two hundred dollars, first class, from here, which will of course mean 'Frisco, and one hundred dollars per ton from vSeattle, and I don't doul)t but wliat you could make same rate from city. Mr. J L , one of the oldest pioneers in the Yukon, is llie organiser of the steamship company, and if any company can l)e relied upon, his certainly can." After dinner I went for a short walk with Ivan. Mr. K .stood outside of his tent lilacking his boots, and I cried, " Oh! for a Kodak, that your people might .sue .some- tliing of the diiai/s of life on the Yukon." He laughed, say- ing, " I was just dressing up for a visit to the ' i)ig tent." " " It 's freezing there," said I, " .so that mo.st of our friends have deserted us, while tho.se who do come run the risk of ]Mieumonia or rheunmtism." " Yes, it 's the coldest place in Alaska," replied K . " Von M and I were talking about it, and we propose to double up and give you our lillle tent with a stove '1 it, for he can move into mine, until your cabin is ready." — " Not for the world would we incon- venience you, so don't insist, and remember that we are as grateful as though we could accept." He and Jones spent the evening, carrying our steamer chairs into the kitchen for us, where we sat vith heavy wraps close to the stove which the latter had .so kindly lent us, while our guests were constantly engaged in filling it with wood. " I was hoping to start the animato.scope this evening — everybody in town is waiting to see it," said Von M , entering; "but it is no u.se, — impossible to get anything from the Ridciynl ,• and such a lot of fellows I know are going home soon, ai;d would buy tickets before leaving if I could only start this show. It 's too bad ! Just think what it would have meant if the Rideout had come in on time a IJ III m ll >4. H H' / fill \ A ! r' ■> >"l ll* 268 Two Women in the Klondike • 1 i 1 '''Nli V month ago ! Why, \vc couhl have hcLMi coining money for fonr weeks, and now ! Why, from five to ten thousand peojile have left." Sunday, August 28th. We held our last church service this morning, as it is not only too cold, l)nt the l)uilding of the house will l)lock the entrance to the tent. After service an inibrmal, friendly meeting was heUl, when the parson (suljstitute sent by Dr. D ), who had come into Dawson to seek his fortune as a photographer, bemoaned his fate, saying that he was now almost too poverty-stricken to leave, although very anxious to do so. "How can that be," we queried, " with prices at one dollar each for developing photographs ? " " That 's all well enough," .said he, " until one runs out of materi;il ; it is then that the expen.se and difficulty Ijegin. Never in all my life have I required so nuich patience and faith as during my stay on the Yukon." So we came to the conclu- •sion that his stores had also been .sent through the company we had chosen, and that he had l)een obliged to purchase at Dawson prices as had we. One of our neighbours came to the tent door saying, " Won't you ladies accept a pair of ducks? My partner and I have just come in from Ottawa, and have shot so much game during the trip that we have more than we want," and so the beauties were turned over to us, and we congratulated ourselves that such generous neighl)ours were about to .set up a cabin next door but one. W then arrived, too late for church, i)ut in time to help prepare luncheon. He had been pro.specting, and had spent .several days on the trail, which accounted for his non-appearance. After luncheon he accompanied me for a .short walk around our .so-called i.sland, and armed with Kodak we took pictures of .several of our neighbours. Mrs. H (who dresses in trouserloons) and her two sons — they are building one cabin and have staked oiT land for two others, — and Q and his partner, to whom I .said, " Have you ever been told of your great re- semblance to Captain Sigsljee, the late conunander of the U^. _ ■^T The " Rideout " at Last 269 jMaiiic .^" " I thank you heartily for the coinphinent," was tlie rjply. At one of the tents we passed the time of day with a man who said that his partner was (piite ill. I immediately en- tered to see what could he done for him. The poor fellow lay stretched on pine boughs about one foot from the pjround, covered with a fur robe. He was fullv dress^-'d in thick '\V A GROUP OF PROSPECTORS. clothine^ and the fire in the tent made the atmosphere so hot and heavN' as to be slifling. I said to him, " You need fresh air. Of course, with your trouble, you nuist keep as quiet as possible, but it is as easy to do that outside the tent as here. Let me help to move you out for a sun-bath." The invalid was not at all enthusiastic at the prospect. It oc- curred to me that .sitting out.side on a box would not be any too comfortable, so I hurried to the tent and, with W "s I' i:. 2;o Two Women in the Klondike J assistance, was about to carry to him my steamer chair, when his partner, liaviug learned of the phin, appeared to reheve us of that troulile. We saw the invalid properly installed, and, on the way back, passed the tent of the men who had sent us the ducks. They had a dozen friends from the other side of the Yukon lunching with them in the opc-n air, so I stopped to take a group or two of the future Klondike mil- i !i 'n .[.I ] I hi m % If lit i OUR NEIGHBOURS WHO ELECTED ME MAYOR. lionaires, telling them of my pleasure in having such good neighbours, a feeling which they reciprocated to such a de- gree that they offered me the position of " lady maj-or," say- ing that I should be voted in by acclamation, and promising dire vengeance on anyone who should dare oppose their decision. Quite elated at the prospect, I confided the plan to E , who inunediately dashed my hopes by saying, " How can an American hold office in Canadian territory ? " Very practical is E , and very clever, too. It is a fort- 1? li'^ll IS The "Ridcout" at Last 271 uiiate thing that she is here to be consulted or else I should rush into every tempting business pr()])ositi()n that offers itself, Init which, after she has dissected it, shows clearly the glaring flaws within the diamond. A number of neighbours came in during the afternoon to discuss going on the trail again. One of them told us that he had the bench claim adjoining ours on Bear Creek ; that he had sunk only two feet and had never taken out less than fifty cents to the pan. We were most exultant at such good news, and still more .so as he said that our prospect looked exceedingly fine, and promised to bring us l)ack .some jian- nings on his return. \V went l)ack to town to get ice for us, promising to return in time fur dinner, which he and Jones assisted in preparing. There was a big wedding in Dawson, which kept all our Sunday-night friends on the other side. Von M and K joined us, one bringing a loaf of bread, the other some maple sugar, and as we were gathered about the stove, Jones, who had disappeared for a short time, came in, .saying to me, " Here 's a chance for you, who are always so good to .sick boys. A M came over to see you, but was taken suddetdy ill, and is in Mrs. T 's tent. She 's in D: w.son, and there 's nobody to give him any medicine or to look out for him." H and I immediately answered this call of distress from our kindly guide, and found him with raging headache and light fever. Fortunately, I had the remedies at hand, and as the others went to fetch them, M said, " Here 's a pretty nugget I brought you back from Bonanza. Don't say nothing, coz I 've only got one which I brought for ye, coz I thought of ye while I was there." My famous headache or neuralgia cure acted as marvellously as it is wont to do, and in a short time the Klondike King had relief, and was listening to a sketch of his life as it appeared in the latest paper, which I read to the great interest not only of " big-hearted A , " but of the others in the little audience. We left him early, as he had decided to .spend the night on this quiet, peaceful side of the Yukon with Jones, in the tent which Mrs. T had loaned him, and where he could not be disturbed b3' It 272 Two Women in the Klondike ,1 t 1 h . it' the luuulrccls of Initlonliok-rs and sclieiiiLrs wlio <;ivL' him no ])uacL'. \V accepted the oiTer of Jones to spend the night in his tent and the party soon broke np. Jones and W- Moiulay, Auf>ust jgtli. ■ tnrned up before 9 a.m. to join us at lireakfast, which they helped jirepare. At ten, Von M came to row me acro.ss the Yukon in his canoe. Jones rowed Ivan over, as I would not allow the handsome do<^ to ^o in the same boat with me, fearini^ his restlessness or some accident whicli miyht overturn the canoe in the stronj; current. We stopped first at the Alaska Conunercial Company's stores, where we found poor M , who ap- proached us holdint; his head with both liands, sayini,^ " Too nuich wedding ! oh, how the champaj^ne did flow I " Stopped to ch;it with at least a dozen friends, who were all ready to accompany me and assist in the shopjiing expedi- tion, but \V had the list of conunissions to be executed, and had promised IC to .see that they were promptly attended to, .so off we started. We went on l)oard the .steamer Ridcout, where H was checking off freight, but got someone else to take his place while he accompanied us to the Pavilion to show the rooms on which he and B had the option — only fifty feet long, and the bowling-alley is ju.st that length, and requires at least .seventy, " Oh, we '11 manage."—" But how ? There 's not another foot of ground to be obtained here." — " We can fix it somehow." V>\\\. it was quite u.seless we found, as we examined ; so we left for another consultation with K , and H with his l)acker. We then paid a visit to Mr. W , the lumber commi.ssioner, to ask what tax we must pay on our logs for building. " Sixteen dollars on one hun- dred logs," said he. " But the men who own the raft say they 've already cleared it." " They 've not," he replied, " and you must keep out the sixteen dollars from the price agreed for payment, and tell them it 's by my orders." From there to the land conunissioner's, where we saw hand- some Captain B , and asked to have explained to us the The " Riclcout " at Last / o rights and privileges of a squalter. " Voit are entitled to 50 X 60 feet," said he. " Hut all our neighl)Ours have taken 50 X 100 feet ; why should not we do the same? " — " All right, if you can hold it. Land on that side has not yet been surveyed or decided upon, but on this side 50x60 feet is the rule." — " Is there any inexpensive ground for a winter residence?" " Just one lot at two hundred dollars," said lAHES^mUW '41. P^' \ *: t'm: 'j;«' • i 1 1 1 1 *• i»li .1:1 liV, LADUE'8 STORE. he, pointing it 'out on the map. W took the directions and promised to have a look at it. I then thanked the Cap- tain, telling him that if the erection of the summer residence did not leave me penniless, I should probabh' return for the bit of ground. " Atid then it will be gone," said he. Our next visit was to Ladue's warehouse stores. His agent said it would be impossible to tell whether we would be called upon to pay again for our freight before receipt of it ; said he could not even get Ladue's cargo out, things were 18 1 Vi \, ; 1. / n H lb. 274 Two Women in the Klondike ill such a muddle. Von M- and C- -, who had joined us, all tried to extract wh^-s and wherefores, but the agent j^rofessed entire ignorance. Back to the warehouse we went ; Ladue not to be seen, but his attorney poured oil on the troubled waters by telling us that all complications had been disenlr.ngled and that goods were being landed as rapidly as po.ssible, Init we had better interview the pur.ser. So to the Ridcout I went with my four handsome escorts, who cleared the waj- for me as though I had been a member of the royal family. On our way to the purser's office we were met b\- II , who said that as he had charge of checking up and putting Ladue's goods in warehouse, if we would leave the matter in his hands there would be no further trouble. Next to the office of the Klondike N'lii^ffct to in- quire why we are not receiving that spicy little sheet, then to the office of the Canadian customs official to ask if he would allow us to copy our bills which he had retained. He asked for the bills of Ridcout cargo, and kindly offered assistance in getting our goods without repaying freight, not having heard that the difficulties in the Johnson-Locke Company had been settled. At last, the commi.ssions finished, we started for the boat, oidy to find that Dr. C , wdio had borrowed it at eleven o'clock to pay an hour's visit to K , had failed to return, .so we all seated ourselves on the platform outside the Alaska Commercial Companj-, and waited and watched the shore near the big tent to see when the Doctor should push offi We were joined by Mr. L, , who said that if K and I would only give up Dawson for Circle, we should have .some splendid claims there and that the " boys " would build us a fine house. Then came M to explain about the mine on Bear Creek, and with so large a party of the college boys to keep me company I was in no hurry for the appearance ot Dr. C and the canoe. Finally A M arrived, and they all made way for this mode.st Klondike King, " John said you wanted me to go over and take lunch with 3'ez," said he. " We 'd be glad to have you, but we know that this is your busiest hour, and it seems such a pity for The ••Ridcout" at Last 2/5 you to be obliged to liiirry right back that perhaps you would ratlier come to dinner at six." " True for ye/," ex- claimed A , his face lighting up ; " that 's what ! I '11 be here at six o'clock an' yez kin tell John to come and row me over," and the man of millions started off with long strides, onlj' to find men waiting to waylay him on all sides. Jones appeared at last ready to take Ivan and me home. I begged passage also for \V and Von M . W who was carrying under his arm our four loaves of bread, which we had purchased for a dollar, let one of them slip from the paper to the ground. ' ' Bread is too precious to be thrown away for a little thing like that," cried the " boys," and im- mediately conunenced giving it a thorough dusting. On reaching the " big tent " we were met by half a dozen men who had heard of our strike on Bear Creek, and were ready to start out staking in case we would give tlieni a few details. " There are five of us," said they, " and we '11 all give you an interest." "Ah ! in case your claims turn out well I .shall expect a million from each one," and so saying, I spread the map out before F , explaining to him carefully the entire ground, but without exacting the usual bargain of half-inter- est in each claim. Off they all started with heavy packs on their backs, and a strange sight it seemed ! These society men, who are dined and wined in New York, who lead cotil- lions and attend teas, cheerfully making beasts of burden of themselves, by strapping anywhere from thirty to eighty pounds on the back, bending under the burden, tramping miles daily, with perspiration rolling from the brow, yet making no complaint. Von M went to his cabin for luncheon. \V and I opened a tin of .sardines and had .some delicious hot .soda-bi.scuit which K had left in the oven for us, after which we washed the dishes and prepared to draw up the papers in regard to some claims. At 5.30 Jones rowed over for ISI . Poor John had been feeling sore and ugly all day, and before starting .said, " You 'd oughter 'a'seen Mrs. H in Daw.son to-day. She did n't have no use for John at all, just nothing but dudes all day long. She went everywhere with that there ; wl 5'i ' J' I' 'i if ir 276 Two Women in the Klondike fh 'I I red-necktie fellow." " I'lit he is to have charge of our affairs," interrupted IC , "and he went to attend to the business part of it." " All right ! you just keep on with them there dudes and you '11 see how you '11 come out ; if you 'd trusted everything to John you would n't be hriving all this trouble now. Why, I 'd just like to see these ' Bah Jove ' Englishmen a-tryin' to run your animatoscope. Just the way they 'd talk would make all the fellows give 'c-m the laugh ; they don't know nothing about such things. Why, that there dog Ivan — a man kim up to me and .said he 'd give a thousand dollars down for him an' call him cheap, but I ain't goin' to do no business for you folks when yer has a lot of dudes a-hangin' round. I "11 be durned if Mrs. II did n't ask a lot of 'em over to dinner to-night. Me and A don't want no dinner with the likes o' them, an' I tell you he ain't comin' no more when he knows she lets such fellers as them hang around." He sulked about until time to row across. Seven o'clock cnme and no diinier guests ; eight, ditto, so we sat down with W and Von M , enjoyed our stewed clams, delicious roast of beef, po- tatoes, scalloped tomatoes, asparagus salad, etc., which they had a.ssisted in preparing, and discussed whether we should waste a bottle of champagne UDon these two " boys." They overruled us by saying that once it had been iced it had to be used, .so the contents of the Ijottle were carefully divided into four parts. We drank success to the animalo.scope, and the fellows were congratulating themselves upon their luck in having had A 'sgood dinner. At 9 p.m. in he walked with Jones. We thought, of cour.se, that they had dined, but .soon discovered our mi.stake. Our two English dudes transformed themselves into the most perfect of cooks and butlers. Tinned goods are quickly heated, and E went behind the .screen to give directions. W served each cour.se with a grand flourish and bow. Von M , as cook, came in to see if the di.shes were satisfactory, and was promptly ordered back into the kitchen. Upon opening a bottle of champagne, he remained in an expectant position, but instead of being asked to partake he was promptly The " Ridcout " at Last 2/7 ordered to place the bottle on the table and retire, much to the delight of Jones and the hut^e glee of A , who was indeed surprised to see himself waited upon in such style by two young noblemen. I made a feint of eating and drink- ing ; the others had most hearty appetites and seemed to enjuy everything. The tent door was wide open, and the table was lighted by the soft rays of the moon. A KLONDIKE TEAM. After dinner a man came to see about moving the logs for our cabin. All our neighbours pay twenty dollars a day for horse and man, but for the big tent twenty-five dollars is the lowest price. So " Big A " and I walked along the river bank to a place where we were told we should fiiul a man who owned a very strong horse. We found him, and tried to strike a bargain, but the horse's master recognised the owner of the " big tent " as well as the Klondike King, .so bargain- ing was more than useless, and, finally, ten hours' work was ; II m y.>' I It I' '. H ! 11 i S' l^ iiy 278 Two Women in the Klondike arranged for on the morrow, to begin at 8 a.m. We seated ourselves on a log, where the moonlight shone softlj' over the Yukon and the mountains back of Daw.son, and there M told me the history of his life. Although he had started with only three dollars and a half, he had always been so sure of success that his dreams were ever of how to invest the coming millions. He told of his plans for " going out," for visiting Seattle, San Francisco, Colorado, where he had worked for years. New York, and even London, and kindly offered to escort us over the Pass, and help us in the difficult places which we should be sure to encounter, as well as to show us the famous Alaska-Treadwell mines. He also promised that in case of our return to Dawson, he would take us to virgin ground and tell us where to stake, and a promise of that kind from A M is worth more than a promise of millions from anyone else. The next afternoon an Indian came to the tent and, in a most imperious manner, asked if we wished to purchase fish. As we had a roast of beef on hand, and W and I sat plucking feathers from ducks, a first experience for each of us and one which amused us hugely, we thought we had too much fresh food, but when he said only " four bits each " the temptation was too great, and we accompanied him down to the boat to select our salmon. We told him to bring it to the tent and receive the pa\'; this he declined to do in a most stately manner, handing the fish to W , who accepted it as naturally as he carries bread and washes dishes, with never a thought as to what the members of the crack regiment to which he so latel}' belonged would saj\ Such men deserve success. The Indian followed us with great dignity, holding the hand of a small child of three years of age. After receiv- ing payment, he stood calmly surveying the decorations. I started the music-box, to which the child listened with awe ; then took her hand to show her the parrot. The father ob- jected, however, saying, " got no time." But the child had caught sight of the strange bird and was .so eager to make its acquaintance that it was some time before he succeeded in leading her away. I asked if they would like their pictures ' : ? The "Ricleout" at Last 279 taken to which he replied, " Got no good clothes." It seems strange that pjople of difTurent nations fail to realise the picturesqueness of their native costume, and onlj- feel pleased with themselves when garbed in foreign attire which com- pletel}' spoils their appearance. The picture taken, however, the Indian said with an air of command, " Picture finish very quick and then you give me." " What a haughty manner! " said I, as he disappeared from view. " No wonder ; that 's the chief of the tribe, and the kid is a prince.ss," said one of my neighbours. i'.r \m ' >i. h ,' r w I* I* I yi CHAPTER XXIII .< ■*. I ■ iM' 1 !l '■ ••■ !' 1 hx 1^' TRIALS OP BUILDING Tuesday, August 30th. AT 9 A.M. Jones came with a man to dig the foundation. At ten the man with the horse appeared, but after viewing the heavj' logs said he must have an assistant, so he went off and finally secured one at eight dollars a day. Work commenced after ten, nearer eleven. I got out tape- measure and gave it to Jones to stake oflF ground, after the return of which he disappeared. Dr. H sent in his bill yesterday. He had paid me one professional visit, in which he had bandaged my feet and given me medicine. On his second visit I had announced myself as completely cured. Bill, forty-three dollars. As for E , he had visited her once or twice, and massaged her feet twice. Bill, fifty-three dollars. " Big tent" again making for us its unfortunate impression. Before leaving. Colonel Q said, " Now that you are not to have service here again, don't make any engagement for next Sunda}-, as I 'm to have a steam yacht (?) at mj^ disposal, and am going to give a picnic only to members of thij " four hundred." So I want you two ladies as leaders of it. Then there is to be the daughter of Senator . I tell you I 'm going to be in the very choicest society on that day." " Is ' Windy' going?" said one of the " boys."-" Not much." " Who is ' Windy ? ' " we asked. " Oh, she 's the lady that comes to all our tents and talks .so much." " Not very kind of you to speak in that disrespectful manner, and you a Virginia gentleman." " Yes, I know ; but I just 280 ki.^^ r W\<' Trials of Building 281 can t help it I like ladies as is ladies, like you two that all your nei!;hbours are proud of, and not a woman who 's always pokiu' her nose in your cabin and talkin' you almost blind. Now if we boys want to see you, we know we 've got to come over to your tent, and call, just as we would at home, and although you 're kind enough to say that we can come in shirt-sleeves and jerseys when it 's too hot to Ije comfort- able otherwise, still, we always feel that we must si)ruce up for you, and we like to do it, and feel better for the visit. It 's a fine thing for us to have .such ladies around, and it keeps us from getting demoralised ; but how can we have the same respect for women who dress like men, and live like men, and talk like men, and act Hke men ? Besides, you 're interested in all we say and all we do, 'cause it 's a new ex- perience for you, and so we feel that you like to hear us talk. There 's a big dilTerence, I tell you, which we feel even if we can't explain it to you, and you 're bein' here makes bet- ter men of us." Now to return to our house-building. While the owner of the horse and his assistant were hauling up logs from the raft, I superintended them, K overseeing the man wlio was digging the foundation. From nine to twelve he dug the south and east sides, then saying, " I think I can work better for a little luncheon," left for the other side of the river. Work being stopped also on the log-hauling, more as a joke than anything el.se, I said, " See how much I can dig while the men are at luncheon," and immediately began overturning the earth on the north side. A neighbour en- gaged in finishing his cabin said, " Don't you think your New York friends would give fifty cents admi.ssion to see you using a shovel?" "They 'd never believe it," said E , " even were we both to swear to it," .so she .seized the Kodak and caught me in the act, with the perspiration rolling down my brow. " Let me show you how to hold a shovel, if you won't allow me to dig for you," called an- other neighbour. " I hate to .see a woman working, but th.en you can't make much impression ; it 's only play for you." This put me on mj^ mettle, and caused me to work Vi( \m 'I f 28: Two Women in the Klondike !.« t ^ • 'fei 1 \ \ ' I n with such determiiiatioii that I had soon dug the entire thirty feet necessary to hold the first U)g, but as different ones came in and refused to i)eheve it tlie work of my hands, I reahsed more and more that those at home would i)e equally incredulous. Down to the raft a5:fain, while E continued the house- work, which to me is most obnoxious. The two men had done so little that I began to fear their task would not be finished by night, so questioned them. They could not tell ! Thirty-three dollars a day and only half a dozen logs hauled up. At that rate they might spin out their job indefinitely. Neighbour K came and kindh' brought us a bucket of water. We consulted him and others, but although they knew we were paying steep prices, they saw no waj' of our getting better terms, for, asoneof the" boys" said," They've all heard that you 're very wealthy, and there are only three horses on this side." As I returned from one of mj- many visits to the raft, " Who do you think is back ? " said E . " You 'd never guess — Isaacs," and just then his face appeared in the door- way. " Well, I got out o' grub, and 'as come back to see what I could do."—" How 's your lay ? "— " Oh, me lay 's all right enough, but a feller has to have grub, an' plenty of it. 'Ave your things come in yet from the Ridcont f " — " Yes, they 've arrived, but we can't get them yet, so that we 're buying food ourselves at Dawson prices." " How 's the parrot — got her yet?" said the irrepressible. "Oh, yes, I see she 's as cross as ever," as he seated himself by the parrot's cage. Then, seeing Neighbour J pass, he called out, " I say, J , how about greens from j'our garden ? Could n't you manage to spare me a few?" " Very few left," said J , but relented, adding, " you can help your- st^lf, " which Isaacs did with a generous hand. The hours passed and the man who had dug only twice as nuich as I had, never again put in an appearance. J 's partner, the Frenchman, told us that as the back of our building site was so much higher than the front, there should have been no digging there whatever, as it would cause so great a depth \m\\i Trials of Building 283 behind that ice (which is only a few feet below the surface) would be quickly struck. At 2 P.M. Jones reappeared, and .started at once for the raft, but could not hurry the work, the men sayinj; that the loj;s were unusually heavy. After dinner, jiot .seeing any " dudes " around, Jones, who was beginning to recover from his fit of the sulks, invited me for a boat-ride, which it seemed most politic to accept. As he rowed he became more and more cheerful, told me of the terrible fate of women who flirted, and said, " That 's why me and M don't like women, an' never have nothin' to do with 'em. Yer see A , he 's never knowed no women anj'waj-; he 's.so bash- ful, that he 's afraid of even Miss , who 's been running after him so long, an' she ain't grand like you. I tell you I never could 'a' got him near you, but it was just your being .so kind to me when I wuz .sick that did it, and he wanted to do .something for you ; so when I told him you two ladies was a-dyin' to go and stake out claims for your- selves, then .says he, ' By go.sh! John! they '11 do it, and you see if I don't help 'em, that 's what.' Now honest ; do you mean being nice to him like you are? coz, by George! if I thought you wuz just a-flirtiiig I 'd put you down in the middle of this river jess as quick as look at yer, coz never mind how good you 've been to me, an' the likes o' that, A 's been good to me .since I wuz a kid, an' I ain't never had no father nor mother to do nothin' for me nor the likes o' that." As he talked, honest John had rowed steadily Daw.son- ward, where he had a commission to attend to. I asked to remain in the boat, but this request was most finnly refused. " It ain't for the likes o' you to 1)e a-sittin' down here 'mongst all the.se rafts. I '11 just take you to the Alaska Commercial Company, where it 's always respectable, and come back for you as soon as possible " ; .so down the principal street we walked. All the .shows were in full force, bands playing, crowds l)efore the saloons and gambling-places, and yet, even had I been absolutely alone and unprotected, I .should have felt no fear. Aj^ f 284 Two Women in the Klondike \ re H While we had been waiting for our stores from the Ridcouf another aniniatoscope had arrived in town, and had fore- stalled us, and this was their opening night. Crowds were hanging aliout the door awaiting admission. W'e were told that as the " lightning express" appeared, dashed on, and disappeared, the miners howled with delight, and that one of them .stood up and .shouted, " Run her through again ! run her through again ! I ain't .seen a locomotive for nigh on ten jears." To think w'hat we have lost by the detention of our cargo ! Our " lightning expre.ss" will be old when it is finally turned over to us. On reaching the Alaska Connnercial Company's platform, we found the Salvation Army holding its meeting, sur- rounded by miners and idle men. Jones found me a vacant .seat, which I took, attracting no attention, and told him to hurry off on his errand. One or two dogs came to be petted, then a young man approached, raised his hat, saying, " Is this Mrs. H ? I am Mr. , and learning that you brought in a great many novels, magazines, and illustrated weeklies for winter reading, which you are not to remain and enjoy, thought that you might be willing to di.spose of them. If so, I should be very glad to take the lot," he added, with the air of a millionaire, " and I won't be greedy about the price, am willing to make just a small percent- age." " Do you purchase for cash ? " said I. " Well, no," he rckictantly admitted ; " I 'm sorry to say I have no cash whatever, and thought perhaps you 'd just let me take them on commission, as I 'm very much in need of money." Just then Von M appeared, and said, " The O Sisters are so excited by the success of the other aniniatoscope that they w'ant to have ours, and are willing to give the building rent-free from two to six, and have benches made for the crowd which they expect. We must try and get the machine and appurtenances from the Rideout at once, as every day that the other show exhibits takes so much from our pockets and puts it into theirs, when we really should have been first in the field." Jones .soon came to row me back to West Dawson. He and Von M spent the even- - — "tY^ Trials of Building 285 ing filling the little stove with wood until it became a flam- ing sheet of red iron, and still we were not warm. Wednesday, August 31st. vSuch a downpour of rain ! It starts the canary singing at the lop of his voice, as he hears the patter on the tent-top. How grateful we are to Dr. C for his little tent within the big one ; it at least keeps us dry and away from the rivulets and rills which are beginning to form in various directions. At 8 A.M. the man with the horse and his assist- ant appeared. An overseer was absolutely necessary, as some neighbours had told us that they could spin out the job for any length of time otherwise ; .so, buckled into rubber boots, bloomers, and a jersey, with the mercury at fifty degrees, I went out into the rain and down to the river-front to count how many logs had been hauled up after a thirty-three- dollar day's work. Only fifteen ! So it seemed better to strike a contract even at so late a time. The best they would li.sten to was ninety-eight dollars. As a man had told me that he and his partners could work faster without a horse than our employees with one, I went to them (my eight-dol- lar.s-aday man having struck for ten) ; to my surprise they demanded one hundred and fifty dollars to carrj' the eighty- five remaining logs a distance of not more than one or two hundred feet. Back to the first men I went, knowing that my only protection was a contract, which was finally settled at eightj'-five dollars; this relieved me from duty as overseer. Then came a man who revealed to us another expense. We must have someone to shingle the logs. Two men at ten dollars a day for five days ! Forty more logs still remained to be brought down from the raft ; no rope to do it with, so, as there was no place to purchase, we were forced to borrow. All our neighbours still in bed. I went to the tent of the invalid, as his partner had told us to call on him, and found both up and dressed, but the invalid was so weak that his partner and I both begged him to go to the hospital. The partner has been a kind, tender, and willing nurse, but has just heard of a big strike on Bonanza, to which he can go if l^V 'H 1 if jli 1 1 4 1^ /• i< W i ,1! fr 286 Two Women in the Klondike L t \ ' '1 1 relieved of this case and earn enouj^h for two men, which is now quite necessarj-, as their funds arc getting very h)W. After having olTered any assistance in my power, I explained that my errand was only a borrowing one, and was at once given the desired rope. 1 then returned to the big tent, whore E , most patient of cooks and housekeeiKTS, insisted upon my partaking of the breakfast she had kupt warm for me. vShe had placed all the buckets outside of the tent in order to catch the rain- drops, as our kind neighbours, who generally keep us sup- plied from the spring, and with wood, had not yet opened their doors and seemed to be sleeping the sleep of the just. 2 v.M. Our first visitor was the partner of the invalid, bringing his physician from Dawson, who wished to meet us. He had been but three weeks in this part of the coun- try, and brought much news from the "outside world." Neighbour IC came out. " I 'm trying to catch a few rain-drops," said E , " as we are V)oth afraid to go down to the spring for fear of slipping." — " Give me your pail ; why did n't you call on me ? I 've only been lying down reading a novel. Just whistle the next time you want any- thing." While he was gone Jones arrived from Daw.son with the " boss carpenter " whom he had engaged to hew and fit the logs, preparatory to the construction of the cabin. Ten dollars a daj' for ten hours' work of hewing. lie promised to begin on the following morning at seven, Jones saying that he might live on this side and sleep in his tent. After they left, I went out to gather chips and small bits of wood to keep the fire going. The man who was hauling the logs called out, " Well, you '11 do to live in this country ; you work too hard to freeze." A messenger from W brought the following note, ad- dressed. " Mrs. H , The Big Tent: " " I sawtheanimato- scope last night ; it was a very poor show, but evoked great applause. We must get ours started af ofire before people tire of it, as it would be, af the present movient, a great suc- cess, for the other show has not the funeral of the Maine victims nor many other processions which the ' boys ' are \\v Trials of Buikling 2S7 anxious to see. Von M has done all in his power, Iml it is impossible to obtain from the Ridioiil your car^o which was promised yon a month a<;(). vSonieboily ought to make the loss good." Shortly after, \V himself arrived, and said, " I 've oidy five minutes to spare, l)Ut could n't resist the tempta- tion of running over to tell you aljout the .show la.st nigiit. They had n't the funeral of the Maine victims, nor tiie troops and patriotic scenes which we have, but the audience howled all the same, so it appears to me that we shall .simply coin money, once we can get hold of that cargo." \'on M soon cinie also, quite enthusiastic for him. "Well! I 've got permission to .show it on vSunday, as I promised to give twenty-five per cent, of the receipts to the hospitals, which need money very l)adly. As there is nothing in the world for the people to do on that day, everything in town buing closed, we ought to have tile hall packed. As you took .some le.ssons in San Francisco in order to teach your protege how to run it, Mrs. H , you 'd better come over to-morrow ; we '11 go with you to get the cargo, and then you can teach us how to run the machine, and make the lime-light, and we '11 start ahead at once." — " Oh, dear ! suppose I .should have forgotten how to do it ! I had but two lessons, and that was last June ; and then fancy my go- ing into a hall to .show you how to run a show. What would our mothers say?" This is our xisnal war-cry, but Von M , not knowing this, said, " Ju.st fancy what viy people would say at the thought of mj' really running a show. Would n't they be horrified ! " " That 's nawthin' ! " said Jones ; " it 's that there red necktie what they calls a noble- man, an' he such a dude, an' the likes o' that, goin' into it. What 'ud his swell friends in London say ? " — " What does it matter ? Everything goes in the Klondike, and we 've all got to go back with a pile. We 'd be ashamed to go other- wise, for everyone seems to think that j'ou 've only got to reach the dock of Dawson to return home with a million or more." "What part am I to have in the .show?" said E) . " Oh, you can make out the list of views, and the 1 1 1 ,((: 1 J 'Mi* I W I '11 i r 288 Two Women in the Klondike ! *> ' . '^ \i U[ \ . ) ' •! : k ^liP' list of music to be plaj'ed in accoinpaiiitnent, and then j-ou can l)e present on tiie opening night and make it fashion- able. " li insisted, however, she wanted to do .some of the rca/ work, as it would be such a lark. ' ' Well, Mrs. H , will you be ready to go over and instruct us early in the morning ? " — " Must I go in at the general entrance ? Is n't there a side door?" — "Oh, j-es ! we '11 snmggle you in throi'gh the .stage door, though what do you care with such a splendid lot of escorts to protect you even from stray glances? besides, no one is awake in Daw.son before noon." Next visitor, the man with bill for one hundred sixteen- foot logs — one hundred and twenty-five dollars. " I have the money with which to pay you," said I ; " but Mr. \V , tlie lumber agent, tells me that you have not cleared them as you said, and that you nuist either pay him sixteen dollars taxes, and sliow me the receipt, or I nuist deduct it from your bill and give it to him." — " Then you 'd better deduct it, as I can't go over to town at once." On his de- pTture we returned to the all-absori)ing topic. We objected to a Sunday performance, but were overruled by our staflf, who argued, " You 've done a lot of good with your church services here ; now why should n't you take the people from the .streets and temptation ? — for you know how true it is that Satan finds mischief for idle hands, and you '11 be keeping them out of mischief while they 're looking at our naval heroes, and learning what the\' have done during the war; and then think of the big sum that will go towards the hospi- tal : and last, but not least, of how we shall coin money ! " " That 's wliat we want to do," .said K . " Think wliat a lot of good one can do in New York with it." " As for me," I interrupted, " ever since I saw that man from Daw- son board our steamer, with bologna .sausages of gold dust thrown ' cnrele.ss-like ' around his neck, I 've been dying to imitate him. Fancy landing in San Francisco like that ! " — " Everyone would feel certain that j'ou had brought back millions, and then the nuishrooms would a.sk how you made your money, and other nmshrooms would l^e delighted to } Trials of Buildincr 189 whisper behind their fans that you made it rutniin,<^ a show ill Dawson, just as they said tliat Mrs. , or her mother, w.is at one time a laundress." — " What 's the difference, as lon;j; as you get the millions, and get them honestly ? And tlien, Mrs. H , you '11 he able to enjoy the two objects for which you are longing — your yacht, and establishing re- lief stations for the unemployed." r J '1' . ■■■I- V)'"*5^" •""?'<>■*."» fi PBfciillpW FIRST AND ONLY FIRE ENGINE. "Have you heard the news?" called out one of the "boys" at the tent door after dinner. We thought from his tone that our arm^- or navy had again been successful, and eagerly questioned him. " Why, there 's been an ex- plo.sion at the the-9 ■i \ . I 11;. 1- -f I '1 ' fci t < f 1 ■