A^ %^ _ **^ ^ ^ <^> IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) // €:< ^. z. ^ ^ !.0 ^^ Ki itt Ui ao? 1-25 |U. 11.6 I HiotDgraphic ^Sciences Corporation ^^^ V'^ 33 WnT MAIN $TIHT WMSTM.NY. MSM (7U) •7a-4S03 '^ 5 CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Inttituta for Historical IMicroraproductions / inttitut Canadian da microraproductions hiatoriquaa Tachnical and Bibliographic Notaa/Notaa tachniquaa at bibliographiquaa Tha instituta haa attamptad to obtain tha baat originai copy avaiiabia for filming. Faaturaa of thia copy whicli may t>a bibliographically uniqua, which may altar any of tha imagaa in tha raproduction, or which may aigniflcantly changa tha.uaual mathod of filming, ara chackad balow. D D D D D Colourad covara/ Couvartura da couiaur I I Covara damagad/ Couvartura andommagAa Covara raatorad and/or laminatad/ Couvartura raataurAa at/ou palliculAa Covar titia miaaing/ La titra da couvartura manqua Colourad mapa/ Cartaa giographiquaa an couiaur Colourad inic (i.a. othar than blua or blacic)/ Encra da couiaur (i.a. autra qua blaua ou noira) rri Colourad plataa and/or iiluatrationa/ Planchaa at/ou iiluatrationa un couiaur Bound with othar matarial/ Rail* avac d'autraa documanta Tight binding may cauaa ahadowa or diatortion along Intarlor margin/ La r« liura sarrAa paut cauaar da I'ombra ou da la diatortion la long da la marga intiriaura Blanic laavaa addad during raatoration may appaar within tha taxt. Whanavar poaaibia, thaaa hava baan omittad from filming/ II aa paut qua cartainaa pagaa bianchaa ajouttaa iora d'una raatauration apparaiaaant dana la taxta. maia, ioraqua cala 4tait poaaibia, caa pagaa n'ont paa 4t« filmiaa. Addltioi: t 1 A >^-^ ■^/> ^ »]:' %Mr^^ '•) £f/lftr •J'*- XFM* VORK . /* lift/ 1 shiui hv /'](/ Htt I PREFACE The contents of the present volume, from the pen of the celebrated Missionary of the Rocky Mountains, will be found, by the reader, to be fraught with extraordinary interest. The manners and customs of the North American Indians — their traditions, their superstitions, their docility in admitting the maxims of the gospel, and the edifying Hves of thousands who have received the grace of baptism and instruction, are described with a freshness of coloring, and an exactness of detail, that will render them invaluable not only to our own times, but, especially, to posterity. He travels through those vast and unexplored deseits, not merely as a mis- sionary, filled with the zeal which characterized the apostles of the primitive Society to which he belongs, but with the eye of a poet, and an imagination glowing with a bright yet calm enthusiasm. Hence the exqui- site descriptions of scenery, of incidents, of events; descriptions which breathe the spirit of a mind imbued with the loftiest conceptions of nature, and chastened with the sacred influences of faith. xu. PREFACE. The reverend author having, before his recent de- parture for his native land, left the supervision of this work to my care, I feel bound, in justice to his modesty, to state, that the Introduction, taken from the Catholic Almanac, is not from his pen ; and he is not, therefore, accountable for the epithets of praise (so eminently de- served, and yet so repugnant to his humility,) which, through it, arc occasionally coupled with his name. The lithographic sketches that accompany this Vo- lume, are copied from the original drawings of the Keverend Father Point, S. J. ; drawings of such ex- quisite perfection, that they would do honor to any master : and the more admirable, from the circumstance of their having been executed with the pen, in the midst of the privations and difficulties of his remote and arduous missions. In conclusion, I cannot but express the pleasure, instruction, and edification, I have derived from the careful perusal of these beautiful letters : and I feel convinced that they will prove, to all who read them, a source of interest and delight which few volumes of the same dimensions can open to the intellectual and Christian reader. • '• C. C. P. New-York, August 1st, 1847. ^ pJMl-.-^y recent de- ion of tins is modesty, le Catholic ,, therefore, inently de- ty,) which, lame. y this Vo- 3gs of the f such ex- aor to any ircumstance n the midst remote and I le pleasure, d from the and I feel read them, volumes of llectual and C. C. P. I .nA3 ! ig'*iv.. i nil mm f m^ ^ f r j caii^ 12." ^"t 2 s OREGON MISSIONS. AN OUTLINE SKETCH OF OREGON TERRITORY AND ITS MISSIONS. The political discussion, Avliich has been going on for years between the British j^overnment and that of the United States, in regard to the boundary which defines their respective por- tions of the Oregon territory, has turned upon this distant region a large share of public atten- tion, and has won for it an interest which will increase in proportion to the advances of civil- ization and commerce within its borders. But it becomes an object of nuich deeper interest in th(* eyes of the philanthropist and Christian, when we look to the efforts which have b(-en made, and which are still continued, in order to diffuse the blessings of religious truth among ;t 14 OREGON MISSIONS. its benighted inhabitants. To the Catholic, especially, does this remote country present the most pleasing scenes lor contemplation, and by this reason we have been induced to lay before the reader, a brief account of its discovery and settlement, and of the missions undertaken for the spiritual welfare of its inhabitants. Oregon territory is that important part of North America which extends from the 42d to the 50th degree of N. latitude, and from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean. It is bounded on the north by the Russian posses- sions, and on the south by California ; forming a kind of parallelogram, about seven hundred and fifty miles in length and five hundred in breadth, and containing 375,000 square miles. There appears no reason to doubt of the Spaniards having been the first to visit this country. The documents we possess, and the tradition of the natives, concur to render this opinion incontestible. According to them a vessel made its appearance south of the Colum- bia river before 1792, and there is still living among them a woman whose father was one of the crew attached to the vessel, and whose mother belonged to the tribe of the Kilamukes. When we add to this that crucifixes have been OREGON MISSIONS. 15 'atholic, sent the , and by y before i^ery and iken for part of LO 42d to from the ^n. It is [1 posses- O" formin hundred mdred in 3 miles. 3t of the visit this , and the jnder this ) them a iie Cohim- 5till living vas one of Lnd whose Lilamukes. have been found in iheir hands transmitted to them from their ancestors, that the island of Vancouver still exhibits the ruins of colonial habitations, that the strait which separates it from the mainland bears the name of Jumi Fuca^ and that the country itself is contiguous to Cali- fornia, where the Spanish missionaries had penetrated nearly two hundred years before, we cannot but look upon the Spaniards as the dis- coverers of Oregon. After the voyage of Captain Cook in 1790, by which it was ascertained that the sea along the N. W. coast of America abounded in otters, this region was visited by vessels from almost every part of the world. The people of the United States were not behind others in enterprise ; in 1792, Captain Gray sailed up an unknown river of that country, to the distance of eighteen miles, and the stream has since retained the name of Columbia^ from the ship which he com- manded. In leaving the river. Captain Gray passed the vessel of Captain Vancouver, who also navigated the Columbia river about one hundred miles, to the point which bears his name. In 1793 the country was visited by Sir Alexander McKenzie, after discovering the river which retains his name. In 1804, Messrs 16 OREGON MISSIONS f lii Lewis and Clark were commissioned by the United States to explore the sources of the Columbia, and they descended the river as far as Gray's Bay. A few years after, in 1810, Mr. Astor fitted out two expeditions to Oregon, for the purpose of securing the interest of the fur- trade in those parts. The party that had em- barked by water arrived first, and erected a fort called Astoria, about nine miles from the mouth of the Columbia. The company of the North- West (English) also considered the fur-trade of Oregon as well worthy of attention, and they immediately despatched an agent by land for the purpose of securing it ; but he arrived at Astoria several months after the first expedi- tions from the United States. During the war of 1812, a British vessel sailed to the Columbia, in order to take possses- sion of Astoria and its treasure ; but the captain was cruelly disappointed in discovering that the place was already held by an agent of the North- West Company, who had purchased it in anticipation of the future war with the United States. The Canadians who had settled there under its original owners, were employed by the new proprietors, and their numbers increas* ed in proportion as the Company extended its f OREGON MISSIONS. 17 by the of the r as far no, Mr. ;5on, for the fur- lad em- id a fort c mouth 3 North- trade of nd they land for rived at expedi- ti vessel possses- captain that the of the Lsed it in e United ed there loyed by increas* inded its t operations. In this way tho country was visit- ed in every direction, and many of the Indian tribes heard from them of liic Catholic religion and th(^. worship of the true God. In 18*^1, the North-West and Hudson Bay Companies united their interests, and gave a new impulse to the lur-trade. Mr. John McLaughlin, who went to Oregon in 1824, was chiefly instrumental in promoting the prosperity of the country. He added to the business posts, and gave employ- ment to a greater number of Canadians and Iroquois. They commenced at the same time the cultivation of wheat. One of the settlers having undertaken, in 1829. to till the soil in the valley of Willamette, his example was soon fol- lowed by others, and the colony became so numerous that in 1834 an application was made to Dr. Provencher, Vicar Apostolic of Hudson Bay, to procure a clergyman for the service of the people. The colonists, however, did not succeed in obtaining a favorable answer to their petition, until the following year, when two clergymen were appointed for the mission ; but, owing to the arrival of a Methodist preach- er and of an Episcopalian minister in Oregon, the former in 1834, and the latter in 1837, the departure of the Catholic clergymen was con- 18 OREGON MISSIONS. u siderably delayed. Rev. Mr. Demers went as far as the Red River in 1837, and arrangements having been made for himself and fellow-la- borer to pass into Oregon the following year, Rev. F. N. Blanchet lel't Canada at the appoint- ed time, and joined his companion at Red River, whence they both started on the 10th of July, and after a perilous journey of between four and live thousand miles, and the loss of twelve of their fellow-travellers in the rapids of Colum- bia River, they arrived at Fort Vancouver, the 24th of November, of the same year. On their route the two missionaries were treated with the utmost courtesy by the traders whom they met, and at Vancouver they were received with every demonstration of respect by James Doug- lass, Esq., who commanded that post during the absence of Mr. McLaughlin in England. On seeing the missionaries at length among them, the Canadians wept for joy, and the savages as- sembled from a distance of one hundred miles, to behold the blftck ^afnis of whom so much had been said. Before we follow the minis! (m*s of God in their apostolic laboi-s, w(^ shall allude as bricHy as possible to {\w Jispeet of th(^ country, to the dilliculties and dangers it presents to the mis- OREGON MISSIONS. 19 kVcnt as (cmcnts llo\v-la- ig year, ippoint- d River, [)!' July, 311 four ' twelve Colum- ver, the 3ii their [h\ with mi they ed with s Doug- •ing the id. On ;• them, iges as- d miles, ich had God in ; hrielly , to the lie luis- sionarv, and to its commercial and agricultural resources. We shall observe, in the first place, that the Columbia River stretches from its mouth about '2i)() miles to the east, as far as Fort Walla Walla; it then takes a northerly direction 150 miles, to Fort Okanagan ; thence it extends 170 miles easlerlv to Colville. Fort Vancouver, the l)rincipal post in Oregon, is situated in 45° JJO' N. latitude, about one hundred miles from the mouth of the Columbia, and on its western bank, in ascending the river. The Willamette is a tributarv of the Columbia, falling into it lour mih^s below Vancouver on the opposite sid(\ Twenty miles up the stream is a cascad(i of about twentv-live feet, and thirty miles fur- there is a Canadian establisbment, which in lH',iS luunbenMl twenty-six Catholic lamilies, besides the S(M tiers trom the Fnited States. The resi- dencM' of the ]\b'lh()dist minister was ten miles higlK'r up. The River Cowlitz falls into the Columbia tliirtv miles below A'ancouver, on the same side*. Foi'tv-live miles from its mouth is « seen the establishment which bears its name. Vowv Catholics lamilies resided here on the arrival of the missionaries. From this ])Iae(^ to 20 OREGON IMISSIONS. 'U i\os(|iiMly at the southern oxtnMiiity of PiiiJ^ct Sound, the dislanrc is noarly seventy miles, and it is e(]UMlly far I'roni tlie latter point to the island of Wliilbv. Two davs' journey i'urther north will brinic vou to th(^ ilivcn* l-'razer, on whiidi Fort Lani;lev is siluatiMl. Tiiis river falls into lVi«2:et Sound or the Gull' of Geors from A'aiicouver. The reader may form some idea of tlu^ almost insurmountable dillicul- ties to be encountered by our two missionaries, in visiting their various posts, so widely distant from eaeh other, espeeially in a country overrun in every direction by lofty mountains. These mountains ^(MKM'ally extend from north to south. From the Valley of Willamette are seen three elevated pcniks, which have the form of a cone, and are covered with p(Mj»ctual snow; hence cjdled Suoin/ Mountains. One of \\\vu\ Mt. St. Helena, stands opposite Cowlitz to th(^ east, and lor some years past has been noted for its vol- OREGON MISSIONS. 21 lies, Jind ; to the lurtlicr tzcr, on is river orji^ia. le Flfit- ille, to- liuiidred 5tant to } yet, is lumdred ly Ibrrn dillicul- oiifiries, distant overrun These south, n three a cone, ; lience Mt. St. ist, and its vol- oanie eruptions.* Besides the rivers we have mentioned, there Jire several otliers, the princi- pal ol' Avliich ;ire the Clamet, Umpqua, and the Chikeeles. Tlie Colund)ia is navigable as far .IS th«^ cascade, fifty- lour miles above Van- COIlVfM'. Th(^ immense v.alleys in Oregon Territory, covered with extensive and fertile prairies, fol- low the course of the mountains from north to soullf, and are crossed in different directions by rivulets bordered with trees. They easily yield to ttie j)lontrh, and though the first crop is not very €'i!)undant. the second is generally sufficient to rej)ay the labor of tillag<\ The soil is for the most i)art fertile, particularly in the south. Every kind of grain is successfully cultivated near Cowlitz, A'ancouver, in the Willamette \'ulley, and further south. The same may be said of th(.' neighborhood of Fort Walla Walla, Colville ; the mission of St. Mary's ; the mission ol* the Sa(;red Heart, of St. Ignatius, and St. Francis iiorgia, among the Pend-d'oreilles ; of St. Francis Jiegis, in the valley to Colville; of tlie Assumption and the Holy Heart of Mary, • Mt. St. Helena was meoflnred by Captaiu Wilkes, and was made 9,550 feet. 22 OREGON M [ S S I O N' h'. , fl i'l'l' m I among the Skalsi. Other districts that are not tillable, afford an excellent pasture lor cattle. As to the climate of Oregon, it is not so severe as might be supposed from its elevated latitude. The snow never falls to a gTcater depth than three or four inches in the lower portions of the territory, and seldom remains long on the ground. When the snows, after having accumulated on the mountains and their vicinity in consequence of extreme cold, begin to melt, and the heavy rains supervene, the plains around are covered with water, and sometimes considerable damage is caused by the inunda- tion. The rains commence in October, anci continue until March with little interruption. The very cold weather lasts only for a few weeks. In the month of June the Columbia always overflows its banks, from the thaw which takes place on the mountains, and every four or five vears its waters rise to an extraor- dinary height, and do much injury in the vicin- ity of Vancouver. Until the year 1830, the Territory of Oregon was thickly s U iU; () N M I ri S I <) N s. ire not It lie. not so levatcd "Tcater lower emainsj ;, after id their egin to plains letimes nunda- r, and uption. a few umbia thaw : every xtraor- vicin- )regon )es of ) order- la tal rds of the inhabitants. It showed itself in the form of an infectious fever, which threw the individual into a state of tremor, and produced such a burning heat tliroughoui the body, that the ])atient would sometimes cast hims(df into the water to obtain relief. The population of en- tire villages was cut off by this terrible pesti- lence. Olher villages were burnt in order to arrest the infection which would have arisen from the ])ile of dead bodies that were left im- buried. During this fearful visitation, which attacked the colonists as well as the natives, Dr. McLaughlin displayed the most heroic phi- lanthrophy, in his laborious attention to the sick and the dying. The Indians superstitiously attributed this scourge to a quarrel between some ajj:ents of the Hudson Bay Company and an American captain, which led the latter to throw a species of charm into the river by way of revenge. The fever, however, made its ap- jM^arance annually, though in a less malignant form ; and the inhabil.'ints have discovered both its j)nnentive and its remedy. TIk^ smallpox is the principnl disease that alarms the natives; tliey are in continual dread of it, and imagining that they have a short time to live, they no longer build the large and convenient cabins to I 24 OREGON MISSIONS. I'M- ! V PP It Mi' which they were formerly accustomed. Not- withstanding the ravages above-mentioned, the population of Oregon amounts to nearly 110,000 souls, residing chiefly in the north. This part of the country, fortunately, escaped the diseases which decimated the inhabitants of Willamette and the Columbia, and still rages from time to time in the south. The tribes of this territory dilTer much in character and personal appearance. The sav- figes who frequent the coast, especially towards the north, are of a much more barbarous and ferocious temperament than those of the in- terior ; nor are they less dissimilar in their manners, customs, language, and external fea- tures. The tribes and languages are almost as numerous as the localities. From twenty-five to thirty difl'erent idioms have been distinguish- ed among them, a circumstance which increases in no small degree the hibors of the missionary. In the inteiior of the country, the natives are of a mild and soeial)le disposition, though proud and vindictive ; intelligent though inclined to indolence. Their belief in the innnoi'lality of the soul consists in admitting a future existciice, happy or unhappy, that is, a state of plenty or want, according to the merits or demerits of * OREGON MISSIONS. . Not- lod, the 110,000 is part iiseases amcttc ime to uch in lie. sav- wards us and ihe in- 1 their al Ica- lost as ity-fivc iguish- roases lonary. iwc. of proud uod to ility of StLiiUO, »nty or rits of cvrry individual. The morals of tliis sava<:;e race can scarcely be termed corrupt, consider- ing!^ their very limited means of " cnhghtcnmnit,'" Tiiey have distinct id(\as of rir I f7 some feast dwcllin*j;s. Formerly, tlii^y cl< .lied llienisci 'S A cry comfortably and iieat'y, \vith the lurs Avliich they possessed, but sinc(^ the trade in skins has become so extensive, the natives ol' Ore«i:on are much worse provided I'or in this respect, and the poor can scarcely protect them- selves ajrainst the severity of the seaHle t.vi- ^e. lission- ludson twelve ^ch of Cana- dition milies 5 easy I been 5 they •y ex- , and )t in- from form- ed two establishments, one in the Willamette, whore they had a school, and another about fifty miles from the cascade. An Anglican minister, who resided at Vancouver two years, left it be- fore the arrival of the Catholic clergy. The Presbyterians had a missionary post at Walla Walla, and among the Nez-perces, and in 1830 tliev established a third station on the river Spokane, a few days' journey south of Colville, In 1810, the Rev. Mr. Lee brought with him fellow-laborers for the vineyard, with their wives and children, and a number of husband- men and mechanics. It was a real colony. The preachers stationed themselves at the most important posts, as at Willamette Falls, the Clatsops below fort George, and Nisqualy, and thence visited the other settlements : they even penetrated as far as Whitby. Nothing short of the most arduous toil and constant vigilance on the part of the Catholic clergymen, could have withdrawn so many individuals from the danger of spiritual seduction. Our two missionaries were indefatigable in their exertions, almost always journeying from one post to another, to begin or to consolidate the good work they had in view. S!li' 30 ORKGON MISSIONS. |i« I 1 ill I' Vancouver was tlio first place that experi- enced tlie liappy inliuence of tlicir apostolical zeal. Many of the settlers had lost sijj^lit of the relij^ious principles they had imhihed in their youth, and their wives were either paij^ans in belief, or, if baptized, but superficially ac(iuaint- ed with the nature of that holy rite. In this state of things, which had given rise to many disorders, the missionaries found it necessary to spend several months at Vancouver, and to labor with united energies in instructing the people, baptizing children, performing mar- riages, and inspiring a greater respect for the Christian virtues. With this view they re- mained at Vancouver until the month of Janu- ary, 1839, when Mr. Blanchet visited the Cana- dians at Willamette. It would be difficult to describe the joy which his arrival awakened among them. They had already erected a chapel seventy feet in length, which was dedi- cated by the missionary under the invocation of St. Paul. His ministry at this place was at- tended with the most signal success. Men, women and children, all seemed to appreciate the presence of one who had come, as a mes- senger from Heaven, to diffuse among them the OREGON MISSION!^, 31 cxprri- >stolical t of the n tlicir jans ill ([uaint- Iii this o many isaiy to and to ng tlic mar- for the ley re- f Janu- ' C ana- cult to akcncd cted a s dedi- Ltion of /as at- Men, rcciate a mes- em the consolations of rcli^j^ion. ]]e('or(^ his dc^p.'ii'ture, Mr. ])laiH'liot rehabilitated a ^ood nundxT of marria2:('S, and baptized sfiventy-four j)ers()ns. In April he started ibr Cowlitz, where lie re- mained until tlie latter end of June. Here also his eilbrts were most sueeessl'ul. lie; had the happiness of instructing^ twelve savaf tiliihcr uiul J Imvo much r speaking of tlio Catholic k1 morals and /ate the Roil, res, iu which baptized, and two tribes, who w^ere at war with each otlier, were reconciled. The Catholic h/d- dcr was passed from one nation to another, and all j)rayed to be instructed still more fully in the truths of salvation. After baptizing one hundred and four persons, the missionaries re- turned to Vancouver, and thence repaired to their respective stations during the winter sea- son. A wide field was here opened to their zeal, not only among the catechumens who solicited baptism, but among the settlers, who were anxious to repair by their fervor the nc^jjlect of former years. In the summer of IHIO the Columbia was visited by Captain Jkdcher, from England, for the purpose of sur- veying the river. In the spring of 18 U, Mr. Demers, after giving the usual mission at Vancouver, went to Niscpialy, and with the aid of Indian guides jx'netrated as far as Fort Langley on the river Fraser. Hen; he was surrounded by an im- mense number of savages, to whom he an- nounced without delay the tidings of salvation. His appeal was not in vain, all permitting their children to be baptized, and soliciting the resi- dence" of a priest among them. Seven hundred children received, on this occasion, the sacra- J 36 OREGON MISSIONS. A ' w ment of roji^cnoration. While Mr. Dcmers was thus occupied in gathering the first I'ruits of tlic mission at Puget sound, Mr. Bianchot was equally engaged at Willamette, Vancouver, Cowlitz and the Cascades. At the last men- tioned place several children were baptized, and a number of adults instructed in the faith. During the year 1841, Oregon Terill^ory was visited by two expeditions, one from England under Sir George Simpson, and the other from the U. States, under the command of Captain Wilkes.* f 1 I i- * " Wo stopped for a few hours at tho Catholic mission," says Capt. Wilkes, "to call upon tho Rev. Mr. IJachelot (Hlanchct), to whom I had a note of introduction from Dr. McLauj^hlin ; ho received mo with great kindness. Mr. IJ. is hero settled among his flock, and is doing great good to tho settlers in ministering to their temporal as well as spiritual wants. . . . Mr. Drayton, Michael, and myself, dined with Mr. B. on oatmeal porridge, venison, strawherrics and cream. His hospitality was tendered with good and kind feelings, and with a gentlemanly deportment that spoko much in his favor, and made us regret to leave his company so soon." Mr. Wilkes represents the missions hero and tho farms of tho Canadians, in a thriving state. IIo has incor- rectly given tho name liachrlct to Mr. IJIanchet, superior of tho Oregon mission, who was recently consecrated vicar-apostolic of that country. — Explor. LV/k, vol. 4, p. .'J.'iO. Of tho Methodist mission at Willamette, ]Mr. Wilkes says * <* About all tlio promises of this mission there was an evident OREGON MISSIONS. 37 mors was its of the :hot was ancouvcr, ast men- baptized, lie faith, if^ory was England ther from f Captain Faithful to liis word, Father De Smet return- ed amonj? the Flatheads in the autumn of the same year, accompanied by th(^ liev. Fathers Point and Mei)y:arini, and tliree lay brothers. The mission of St. Mary's was at once estab- lislied, and tiie most abundant harvest collected, (s(^e liuhan sketches). About the same time Messrs. Blnncliet and Demers retired to their usual winter stations, where they had the plea- sure of learning tliat two other missionari(\s, Messrs. John B. Bolduc and Ant. Lanjflois had iission, says t (IJluuchct), jauj^hliii ; lio ?ttlctl ainon;r uiuistcrinpf to Mr. Drayton, cal porrulgo, was teiulcrod y tloportnicnt to leave hirt ions hero and luiH incor- ipcrior of tho r-apostolic of ^VilUcH Rays * .4 an ovidcnt want of t!)o attention reciuirrd to keep tliinfjs in repair, and an ahsenec of neatness th.it I refjretted niucli to witness. We had the expectation of }rettin{r u siglit of tho Indians on whom they wore inrulcatin}r jjood habits, and tcacliing tijo word of (Jod: bnt with tlio exception of four Indian servantH, wo saw none since leavinjr the Catholic mission." — Ihid. p. 351,2. At this latter juissioji ho numbers four or five hundred natives. Tho Method- ists had a school of twenty pupils at some distance. Near Port Orchard the chapel of tho Catholic mission is 172 feet \oun regard- er and to : received ;, they set ued their latitude i the cap- he mouth known to Though ^.spatched liries con- cerning the mode of entering the Columbia ; but he did not return with the required informa- tion, and the captain, being thrown upon his own resources, at once made preparations for entering the river, and proceeded from east to west through a channel altogether unknown to him. It w^as the 31st of July, feast of St. Ignatius of Loyola. As he advanced, by the soundings, he found that the vessel was in very shallow water, having only two and a half feet under her keel, although at a considerable dis- tance from the mainland. At this moment, the safety of the vessel and crew seemed hopeless ; but w; ile shipwreck was staring them in the face, they fell unexpectedly into deeper sound- ings ; the bar was crossed, and two hours after, the vessel anchored off Fort George or Astoria* * On tho bar of the Columbia River occurred the wreck of the Peacock, one of tho vessels attached to the Exploring Expedition. A thrilling account of this event is given in Capt. Wilkes' Narra- tive. Of the bar itself he says : " Mere description can give little idea of the terrors of tho bar of the Columbia ; all who have Been it have spoken of the wildness of the scene, and the inces- sant roar of tho waters, representing it as one of tho most fearful sights that can possibly meet the eye of the sailor. The difficulty of its channel, the distance of the leading sailing marks, their un- certainty to one unacquainted with them, the want of knowledge of the strength and direction of the currents, with the necessity of ^ 44 OREGON MISSIONS. ■ . '(1*1' t Mr. Blanchct and the people of Willamette no sooner heard of Mr. De Smet's arrival at Van couver than they hastened to meet him. The good father and the colony that accompanied him, were received with every demonstration of civility by Dr. McLaughlin and Mr. Douglas, who also tendered one of the company's boats to convey the missionary band to Willamette. Their journey to this place was a real triumph, such was the joy and excitement produced among the inhabitants by the accession of these new laborers to the vineyard. The sisters Notre Dame soon occupied the building which had been undertaken for their purposes, and in the month of December it was opened as a board- ing academy for girls. Father De Smet, about the same time, directed his course towards the Flatheads, Father Devos having come to supply his place in the south. The labors of the Jesuits among the tribes of the north have been crowned with the most abundant success. In 1842, a new mission, the Sacred Heart of Jesus, was founded about eight days' journey south of St. Mary's. In addition to the increased re- approaching close to unseen dangers, the transition from clear to turbid water, all cause doubt and mistrust. Under such feelings, I must confess that I felt myself laboring." — Vol. iv., p. 293. OREGON IVI I S S I O N S . 45 otte no it Van I. The ipanied Ltion of ouglas, 3 boats imette. iumph, oduced •f these 5 Notre ch had in the board- , about 'ds the supply )f the e been ^s. In Jesus, uth of !d re- clear to feelings, 193. sources wliicli the mission received in 1814, \ve must monlion also the arrival of two other Jesuit Fathers and one lav brother, who w^ent to OrcfTon, by the way of the Rocky Mountains. Such was the state of the country, and such the progress of religion among the natives and colonists, when Mr. Blanchet received letters iVom Canada in November last, informing him that., upon the application of the Fifth Provincial Council of Baltimore, he had been appointed A'icar Apostolic of Oregon Territory, and that bulls to that effect, dated the 1st December, 1843, had been despatched to him. He was imme- diately solicited by his fellow-laborers to accept the charge, and at first determined to go to Cali- fornia for the ceremony of consecration. But desirous of obtaining a further reinforcement for his extensive mission, he concluded to visit Europe. Having appointed Rev. Mr. Demers his Vicar Gcncrctl and administrator of the A'icariate during his absence, he left Vancouver towards the end of November, arrived on the 22d of May at London, and thence embarking for this country the 4th of June, in the Cunard line of steamers, he reached Canada on the 24th of the same month, after a journey of more than 22,000 miles. Mr. Blanchet recently re- ^i»i- 46 OREGON MISSIONS. 1 .. .i| ceivcd the opiscopal consecration in Montreal, and lias gone to Europe on business connected with his mission. Six thousand savages brought within the fold of the Christian church, form, indeed, but a small number among the 100,000 who inhabit that immense region ; but this success, achieved in a few years, by a mis- sionary force so limited, and compelled to grap- ple with so many difficulties, is a bright and consoling evidence of what can and will be taccomplished by those who have been com- missioned to " go and teach all nations." On the 1st of December, 1843, his Holiness, Gregory XVI, erected Oregon Territory into an Apostolic Vicariate, and the Rev. Francis N. Blanchet, was appointed to the episcopal charge of this extensive mission. His consecration took place in Montreal, C. E., about the middle of the year 1844. He immediately repaired to Europe, with a view to increase the resources of his mission, and to devise means for pro- moting the interests of religion in Oregon. At his request, and by a recent act of the Holy See, the Territory of Orc^gon, from the 4'id to the 54th degree of N. Latitude, has been divided into eight diocesses, viz : Oregon City, Nes- qualy, Vancouver's Island, and Princess Char- 1, OREGON MISSIONS. 47 ontreal, nnected savages church, ong the on ; but y a mis- to grap- ?ht and will be n com- oliness, into an ncis N. charge aeration middle lircd to sources or pro- ill. At e Holy 4^d to divided ', Nes- I Char- lotte, on the coast, and Walla Walla, Fort Hall, Colville, and New Caledonia, in the interior. These diocesses form an ecclesiastical province, oi' which Oregon City is the Metropolitan See. For the present, only three bi.^hops are appoint- ed for the province, viz : those of Oregon City, Walla Walla, and Vancouver's Island, who will have a provisional jurisdiction over the other diocesses. The episcopal districts of Vancou- twrs Island, Princess Charlotte, and New Cale- floniff, are not included within the territory be- longing to the United States. The Rt. Rev. Modest Dcmers, one of the missionaries that visited Oregon in 1838, has been charged with the See of Vancouver's Island, and the adminis- tration of the two other districts in the British portion of the territory. The region within the limits of the United States embraces the five other diocesses above-mentioned. ARCHDIOCESS OF OREGON CITY. This district is under the jurisdiction of the Rt. Rev. F. \. Blanchet, who has also the ad- ministration of Nesqualy. DI0CE3S OF WALLA WALLA. This diocess is under the charge of the Rt. 48 OREGON MISSIONS. Rev. Magloire Blanchet, who was consecrated in Montreal, on the 27th of September, 1846. He has also the present administration of Fort Hall and Colville. nil iT« r i ir i i The following clergymen are engaged in the missions of Oregon : — Rev. Accolti, Michael, De Smet, Peter J., De Vos, Peter, Hoecken, Adrian. Toset, Joseph, Mcngarini, Gregory, Nobili, John, Point, Nicholas, Ravalli, Anthony, Vercruysse, Aloysius, Langlois, Anthony, Bolduc, John Baptist, Who are all, with the exception of the last two, members of the Society of Jesus. Archbishop Blanchet lately embarked from Europe, on his way to Oregon, with ten secular priests and two regulars, three lay brothers of the Society of Jesus, and seven female relig- ious, lor the wants of the mission. The total number of clergymen is twenty-six. u u n u it u u it «« (( OREGON MISSIONS. 49 ) last from cular ;rs of •elig- total Our information is not sufficiently detailed, to allow us to present the religious statistics of the different diocesses into which Oregon has been divided. We can only state in general, that since the year 1845, several new stations have ])ccn formed, new churches erected, and a large number of the aborigines of various tribes converted to the true faith. The state of religion is as follows: there are eighteen chapels, viz. : five in the Willamette Valley ; 8t. Paul's Cathedral ; St. Mary's at the Convent of the Sisters ; St. Francis Xaverius' Chap"! *h"i new church in the Prairie; St. John's >! ^/ch in Oregon City; one at Van- couver ; one at Cowlitz ; one at Whitby ; four in New Caledonia, to wit : at Stuart's Lake, at Fort Alexandria, at the Rapids, and at the Upper Lake ; St. Mary's Church among the Flatheads; the Church of the Sacred Heart among the Pointed-llearts ; the Church of St. Ignatius among the Pend-d'oreilles ofthe Bay; the Cliapcd of St. PpuI among the Kettle-Fall Tribe near Colville. Tin; Ibllowing are stations of 181(», where chapels are to be erected, to wit : St. Francis Borgia among the Upper Kalispels ; St. Francis Begis in Colvilh^ Valley; St. Peter's at the great Lakes of the Columbia; the As- Si 50 OREGON MISSIONS. sumption among the Flatbow Indians ; the Holy Heart of Mary among the Koetenais. The institutions that have been commenced in Oregon, consist : 1st, of the school of St. Mary's among the Flatheads ; 2d, of a college at St. Paul's, Willamette ; and 3d, of an acad- emy for girls at the same place, under the charge of six sisters of Notre Dame. Other establishments are soon to be commenced. The total number of Indians in the territory is about 110,000, of whom upwards of 6,000 have been converted to the true faith. The number of Catholics among the Canadians and settlers amounts to about 1,500. OREGON MISSIONS, le Holy menced of St. college ti acad- ler the Other i. ^rritory f 6,000 I. The ,ns and No. I. LETTER OF MR. BOLDUC, APOSTOLICAL MISSIONARY. To Mr. Cayenne. Cowlitz, 15th Feb., 1844. Sir, — Nearly a year has elapsed since I had the satisfaction of addressing you. During that period, I have made many new excursions, of which I now intend giving you an account. From the observations made by the first Enj2:lish navigators who visited the coasts of America towards the north of the Columbia River, it appears that the territory bearing the same name, was formerly discovered and peo- pled by Spaniards. Even at the present day, we lind ruins of birch edifices, constructed for lh(^ |)urpose of drawing the savage nations to lli(^ kiio\vl(Mlge of the gospel. Among the iiMlives, relics have ham found attesting this fact ; a certain tribe has possessed for ages a brazen crucifix, bearing the appearance of great antiquity, when, how, and by whom it was brought thither, none can tell. It is probable it ■i . 11 ' 1 ,i ' 'ii . 1 * 1 i ' i 52 OREGON MISSIONS. may have been introduced at that period, when the Spaniards seized on California, and formed a settlement on Vancouver's Island, separated from Terra Firma by the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Gray di.^covered the Columbia River; Vancouver ascended it to the point whereon is built the fort that bears his name, and took possession of the surrounding country. The vast territory extending between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific Ocean is di- vided into two zones, differing in their climate, soil and productions. The line of separation runs parallel to the coasts of the South Sea, from which it is distant about 200 miles. Less woody than the regions of the West, the eastern part rises into table-land, which forms the basis of the Mounts Hood, St. Helena, Reignier, and Baker. The summits of these mountains rise to the height of 15 or 10,000 feet, and are crowned with eternal snow. Last year. Mounts St. Helena and Baker became volcanoes. The latter, within the last few months, has under- gone considerable changes on the side where the crater was formed. In the oriental zone the climate is dry and salubrious ; in winter as well as summer, rain is very rare. Snow never covers the earth I —**> OREGON MISSIONS. 53 J, when formed paratcd nan de River ; reon is id took en the n is di- limate, iration h Sea, Less astern ; basis r, and s rise d are tounts The nder- vhere i and rain arth more than a foot deep ; no marshy land is to be found ; and the air beinw give ter not to go alone on the island ; no priest had as yet trodden the soil, and the savages were little familiarized with the whites. Happily, the Hon. Hudson Bay Company was about con- structing a fort at the southern extremity of the island. Mr. Douglas, the director of this expe- dition, generously invited me to take my pas- sage on board his vessel. Most willingly did I accept the kind oifer, and quitted Cowlitz 7th of March, for Shwally. The Steamboat Beaver awaited us some days ; for, having several prepa- rations to make, we did not get on board before the morning of the 13tli. After having pursued our course during the day, towards evening we cast anchor in still water, at a place named Pointe Perdrix, formed by a projection of the Isle Whitby. Fishing lines wers soon pre- pared, and we had the satisfaction of procuring an excellent dinner for the next dav. We caught a quantity of beautiful fish, not unlike the cod of Canada, some of them were four feet in length. The waters of Puget Bay are richly stocked ; salmon abound, and form one of the principal resources of the natives. In July, August and ►September, more are taken than can be con- sumed. A small fish, peculiar to the north- f 7.-T- t ' 11 II ■■ ''1 1 •;. i :\ i \ i tiU 'H 56 OREGON MISSIONS. western coast is here found ; it comes up the rivers in spring, and contains such a quantity of oil, that when dried and lit by the tail it burns like a candle. From this fish the savages ex- tract excellent oil, which they use for seasoning their food. Early on the 14th we raised anchor and directed our course towards Jaan de Fuca Strait. We landed, and after having visited a small camp of savages, belonging to the Tribe of Klalanes, we bore away for the southern point of Vancouver's Island, whither we arrived about 4 o'clock in the afternoon. At first, only two canoes were perceived ; but, after a dis- charge of cannon, we saw the natives issuing from their haunts and surrounding the steam- boat. Next morning, the pirogues (Indian boats) came from every side. I went on shore with the commander of the expedition and the captain of the vessel ; having received unequi- vocal proofs of the good-will of the Indians, I visited their village situated six miles from the port, at the extremity of the bay. Like the surrounding tribes, this one possess- ed a little fortress, formed by stakes enclosing about 150 square feet. The inhabitants en- deavor to secure themselves in this manner from the incursions of the Toungletats, a power- \X OREGON MISSIONS. 57 ful find warlike tribe ; one part of which en- camps on Vancouver's Island, the other on the continent, north of Frazer's River. These ferocious enemies enter the villa;[^es by night, massacre all the men, and carry off the women and children whom they reduce to slavery. On my arrival, all the tril)e, men, women and children, assembled to shake hands with me ; a ceremony which these savages never omit. They repaired to the great lodge belonging to tlieir chief, where I spoke to them concerning the existence of a God, the Creator of all things ; of the recompense promised to good actions, and the eternal chastisements which await the commission of crime. My instructions were often interrupted by the harangues of my audi- tors. The following one may prove interesting : " Chief, listen to my words ; ten years ago, I heard that there was a jNIaster above, who hated evil ; and that among the French, men were to be found who taught the knowledge of this Master. I also heard that men of this description would come to our home. Since that time, my heart, which was formerly very wicked, has become good ; I no longer do evil ; and since you are come, all hearts are filled with joy." 58 OREGON MISSIONS. f» 1^1 »|! 1-1 f il ii Another day, whilst I was speaking of bap- tism, and recountinj^ to them that several nations had caused their children to be baptized, a man arose and said : " Thy \yords are good, but we have been told that all who were bap- tized among the Kwaitlens, and the Kawitskins (near Frazer River), died immediately ; how- ever, since thou sayest it is a good thing, we believe thee. It the sacred water will cause us to see the Great Master after death, baptize all our camp ; perform this charity, for they nearly all die." I promised, I would return the following Sunday, and confer the sacrament. My arrival being noised abroad, several neighboring nations came hither in crowds. Saturday, the 18th, was employed in construct- ing a kind of repository, whereon to celebrate mass the ensuing morn. Mr. Douglas gave me several of his men to aid in the work. Branches of fir-trees formed the sides of this rustic chapel ; and the awning of the boat, its canopy. Early Sunday morning, more than twelve hun- dred savages, belonging to the three great tribes, Kawitskins, Klalams, and Isanisks, were assembled in this modest sanctuary. Our com- mander neglected nothing that could render the ceremony imposing ; he gave me liberty to OREGON MISSIONS. 59 choose on board, all that could serve for its deco- ration. He assisted at the mass with some Canadians, with two Catholic ladies. It was in the midst of this numerous assembly, that, for the first time, the sacred mysteries were cele- brated ; may the blood of the Spotless Lamb, fertilize this barren land, and cause it to pro- duce an abundant harvest. This being the day fixed for the baptism of the children, I repaired to the principal village accompanied by ail who had assisted at the divine service. On arriv ng, I was again compelled to present my hand to about GOO persons. The children were an r,^- ed along the sea-coast ; I distributed to ( vch a small piece of paper with a name written there- on ; and immediately commenced the ceremony It was about ten o'clock in the morning, and I did not finish before night, the new Christians numbered 102. Though much exhausted, I was obliged to walk two leagues to rejoin the steamboat. According to the plan traced out for our voyage, we were to reinair, lierc but a few days ; and then continue our course from fort to fort, until we arrived at the Russian establish- ment at Sitka, but the little vessel bearing the provisions, came not. This delay grieved me CO O R i: G O N MISSIONS 1 1 ■J niiK^b, for llio *2jrnn(l viciir li.ul conimuiiicatod to mo his iiit(Milioii of <'sla])lishini^ at \\iv ])o^in- niiij;* of suinincr, a mission in Whitby Ish^, and also of cMn|)U)yin«»; mo in this work of zeal. Fcariniz; T would not nMtirn in timo if I delayed my depart ur(% T resolved immediately to retrace my ste|)s. I ])iirchased a caiKK% and enga<^ed the chief of the Isaiiisks and icn of his men to conduct me direct to AVhithy Isle. 1 ([uitted V^aiicouver the 'Jlth of March, bearing with me the most lively sentiments of «i:ratitud(^ towards the coinmaiider of the exi)e(lition and Cai)tain IJrotchie, for all their kind and delicate atten- tions. The sea was calm, but the atmosphere clouded ; luckily, 1 took with me a compass, oth(M-wise 1 should have strayed iVom mv coiu'se, liavin*^ twenty-sev(Mi mil(\s to traverse. The iirst day we reached a little island between the extremity of \\'incoiiver and the continent where we passed the night. My Indians, having shot a sea-wolf, made a grmpass, course, The 11 the where sliot woiiUl can ous ill v(M*al iti^j^Lie. 'sterly coast, 'ei ascended a hill to ascertain if the sea was much ap^itated in the midcHe of the strait; they were some time bcdorci they could decide the point; at last i hey declared, that with the aid of a sail, we mi'j^ht brave the danger. A mast was prepared, a blanket affixed to it, and thus e(|ui[)ped we con(id«'d ourselves to the mercy of the waves. Towards three o'clock w<^ landed at the isle of Wliitby; not, however, without ex[)eii(Micing some danger. A great number of savage Klalams and Skadjjits came to meet us ; I knew, by reputa- tion, the chief ol'the vSkadjats, and asked to see him. They replied thiit he had left two days pn^vlously, to meet me at Vancouver's island. His two sons ])resented themselves; one of them, ])ressing my hand, said, "My father, Netlan, is not her<% he is gone to llamoon (this is the name* of the southern point of Vancou- ver's island) ; when he learns thou art here he will soon return, lie will be delighted if thou wilt remain Jimong us, for he is tired saying *Mass^ every Sunday, and preaching to these people." Later, I was informed that his Mass consisted in explaining to the savages of his tribe the chronological history of religion (traccnl on a ma])), in teaching them to make i-*- 62 OREGON MISSIONS. r I;' I SI; i numberless signs of the cross, and singing a few canticles with the Kyrie Eleison. I pitched my tent near the cross planted by Mr. Blanchet when he first landed in the island, in 1840. The next morning all the camp of the Skadjats surrounded me to hear the word of God. You may form some idea of the popula- tion of this tribe when I tell you, that I gave my hand to a file of 650 persons, besides 150 others who had passed the night near my tent not included in this number : and nearly all the old men and women, besides the children, had remained in their huts. After the instruction, several canticles were chanted in such full chorus that the sound was deafening. Several parents had begged me to baptize their children. I repaired to the village and re- quested to see all the children, under seven, who had not received the grace of regeneration. Not one was forgotten ; there were 1 50 present. The ceremony took place in a little meadow, surrounded by lofty and antique fir-trees. It was not 12 o'clock when I began the adminis- tration of the sacrament, and I did not finish before sun-set. The day was most beautiful, but the ardent rays of the sun, joined to the want of a substantial breakfast, caused me to OREGON MISSIONS. 63 a few aptize and re- seven, ration. >resent. eadow, les. It Iminis- finish utiful, to the me to suffer much by a violent headache. The 27th, the chief of the 8ivi( Ijats deckired to me that I ought not to be lodged in a cotton house (under a tent) ; " for this reason," added he, " to-mor- row thou must tell me in what place we shall construct thee an abode, and thou wilt see how powerful is the effect of my words when I speak to my people." Beholding the good-will of the chief, I pointed out a little eminence. Immedi- ately al'terward I saw two hundred workmen, some having hatchets to fell the trees, others preparing to remove them ; four of the most skilful undertook the arrangement of the edi- fice. In two days all was terminated, and I found myself installed in a house 28 feet long by 25 in width. The wood was rough, the roof covered with cedar-bark, and the interior over- laid willi rush mats. During the week I gave them several instructions, and tau^'ht them some canticles — for without singing, t); ^ best things are of little value ; noise is essential to their eniovment. I had terminated the exercises of the mission, Avhen several savages arrived from the conti- nent ; as soon as they perceived me, they cast themselves on their knees, exclaiming, "Pries., priest, during four days we have travelled to 64 OREGON MISSIONS. }1 '1 i k tfei' behold thee, we have walked night and day, and have scarcely tasted any food ; now that we see thee our hearts are joyful, take pity on us ; we have learned that there is a Master on high, but we know not how to speak to him. Come with us, thou wilt baptize our children as thou didst those of the Skadjats." I was moved by these words, and would willingly have iol • lowed them to their forests, but it was impos- sible to do so, my intended arrival having been announced at Skwally. I quitted these good Indians the 3d April ; during my abode among them I experienced nothing but consolations which surpassed all my expectations. By this relation you will perceive, sir, that the savages of Puget Bay show much zeal for religion, yet they do not understand the full ex- tent of the term. If to be a Christian it were but necessary to know some prayers, and sing canticles, there is not one among them who would not adopt the title ; but a capital point still to be ga: • ' is, a reformation of morals. As soon as we touch this chord, their ardor is changed into indifference. In vain the chief- tains harangue their inferiors ; how can they expect to make any impression where they are themselves the more guilty ! OREGON MISSIONS. 65 1 do not mistrust Divine Providence, but I may say, without exposing myself to illusion, that our best hopes are centred in the tribes in- habiting the coasts of the ocean, or which are settled at the mouth of the numerous tribu- taries. Sir, I have the honor to remain, Your very humble and obedient servant in Jesus Christ, J. B. Z. BOLDUC, Apostolical Missionary, 'itr' 66 OREGON MISSIONS. f « : "f 1 kf ^ No. II. A. M. D. G. Sainto Marie dii Willamette, ' 9th October, 1844. My Dear Brother, — On the 28th July, after a tedious navigation of nearly ei^ht months, we came in sight of the Oregon Territory. Oh ! with what transports of delight we hailed these long-desired shores. What heartfelt thanks- givings burst from every tongue. All, with one accord, entoned that magnificent hymn of praise, the " Te Deum." But these moments of happi- ness were not of long duration ; they were suc- ceeded by others, of deep anxiety, as the remem- brance of the perils yet to be encountered flashed upon our minds. We were approaching the " Columbia." The entrance into this river is difficult and dangerous, even for seamen pro- vided with good charts ; and our captain, unable to procure any, was, we know, entirely unac- quainted with the rocks and breakers, which, at this season, render it almost impracticable. We soon perceived Cape Disappointment, which seems to point out to travellers the course i'-i OREGON MISSIONS. at they are to pursue. It was growing late, and the captain resolved to steer out into the open sea, to avoid the danger of running aground during the night. As the vessel moved slowly onward, leaving the shore in the distance, we stood upon deck, contemplating from afar the high mountains and vast forests of Oregon. Here and there we could distinguish the clouds of smoke curling upwards from the huts of our poor Indians. This aspect filled my very soul with indescribable emotions. It would be ne- cessary to be placed in the same positio^i, to understand fully what were then our feelings. Our hearts palpitated with joy as we gazed on those boundless regions, over which were scat- tered so many abandoned souls — the young, the aged — dying in the shades of infidelity, for want of missionaries ; an evil which we were about to alleviate, if not for all, at least for a great number. The 29th all the fathers celebrated the Holy Sacrifice, wishing to ofifer a last violence to heaven, and force, as it were, a benediction on our mission. The morning was dark and gloomy : so were our spirits. About 10 o'clock the sky cleared, and allowed us to approach, with caution, the vast and fearful mouth of the ilS 68 O R EGON MISSIONS. ). >(t It Columbia. We soon discovered immense break- ers, several miles in extent — the infallible sign of a sand bank. The shoals crossed the river, and seemed to oppose an invincible barrier to our entrance. This sight filled us w^ith conster- nation. We felt that to attempt a passage would be exposing ourselves to an almost cer- tain death. What was to be done ? What be- come of us ? How extricate ourselves from so perilous a situation ? On the 30th our captain, from the topmast, caught the glimpse of a vessel, slowly rounding the Cape, on its way out of the river. This cheering sight was in a moment snatched from our eager view by an intervening rock, under the shade of which it cast anchor, to await a favourable wind. Its appearance, however, led us to conclude that the passage of the river was yet practicable, and we hoped to be direct- ed by its course. About 3 o'clock the captain sent the lieutenant, with three sailors, to sound the breakers, and seek a favorable opening for our entrance on the morrow, which happened to be the 31st July, feast of the great " Loyola." This auspicious coincidence re-animated our hopes, and roused our drooping courage. Full of confidence in the powerful protection of our OREGON MISSIONS. 69 glorious founder, we prostrated ourselves, and fervently implored him not to abandon us in our extreme need. This duty accomplished, we hastened on deck, to await the return of the shallop. It was not until 11 o'clock that their little vessel came alongside the " Indefatigable." No one dared interrogate the sailors, for their dejected countenances foreboded discouraging tidings. However, the lieutenant assured the captain that he had found no obstacle, and that he had passed the bar the preceding night, at 11 o'clock, with five fathoms (30 feet) of water. Immediately were the sails unfurled, and the " Indefatigable " slowly resumed her majestic course, under the favor of a rising breeze. The sky was serene, the sun shone with unwonted brilliancy. For a long time we had not beheld so lovely a day ; nothing but the safe entrance into the river was wanting, to render this the most beautiful day of our voyage. As we ap- proached, we re-doubled our prayers. All ap- peared recollected, and prepared for every event. Presently our wary captain gave orders to sound. A hardy sailor fastened himself to the side of the vessel, and lowered the plummet. Soon was head the cry, " Seven fathoms." At intervals the cry was repeated : " Six fathoms," 4* 70 OREGON MISSIONS. I i ■ t ■ p ' ^> i i ■ n " Five fathoms." It may bo imaj^ined how our hearts i)al])itated at each reiteration. But when we heard the thrilling cry of " Three fathoms " all hope vanished. At one moment it was thought the vessel would be dashed against the reefs. The lieutenant said to the captain, " We are be- tween life and death ; but we must advance." The Lord had not resolved on our destruction, but He wished to test the faith of his servants. In a few moments the tidings of four fathoms roused our sinking spirits : we breathed once more, but the danger yet impended over us ; we had still to sail two miles amidst these fearful breakers. A second time is heard the chilling cry of " Three fathoms ! " " We have mistaken our route," ex- claimed the lieutenant. "Bah !" exclaimed the captain, " do you not see that the Indefatigable passes over every thing ? Keep on." Heaven was for us ; otherwise, neither the skill of our captain, nor the sailors' activity, could have res- cued us from inevitable death. We were amidst the southern channel, which no vessel had ever crossed. A few moments after we learned that our escape had been miraculous." Our vessel had, at first, taken the right course for entering the river, but, not far from its mouth, the Columbia divides into two branches, OREGON MISSIONS. 71 forming, as it were, two channels. The north- ern, near Cape Disappointment, is the one we should have followed ; the southern is not fre- quented, owing to the tremendous breakers that obstruct its entrance, over which we had passed, the first, and probably the last. We also learn- ed, that the deputy of Fort Astoria, having de- scried our vessel two days before, hastened, with some savages, to the extremity of the cape, and endeavored, by means of large fires, hoisted flags, and the firing of guns, to warn us of danger. We had, indeed, perceived these sig- nals, but without suspecting they were intended for us. God, no doubt, wished to show us that he is sufficiently powerful to expose us to peril, and to withdraw us from it unharmed. Glory to His holy name ! glory, also, to St. Ignatius, who so visibly protected his children on this, his festal day. About 4i, a canoe approached us : it contain- ed Clatsop Indians, commanded by an American resident of the coast. The whoop of these w^ild men of the forest much astonished our fathers, and the sisters of Notre Dame. The only word we could distinguish was " Catche," which they vociferated countless times. Our captain made them a sign to approach, and permitted them to f if i r '!> 72 OREGON MISSIONS. come on board. The American immediately ac- costed me, and spoke of our perilous situation, saying, that he would have come to our aid, but his Indians refused to brave the danger. The Indians, on their side, endeavored by signs to make us comprehend how great had been their terror, for, at every moment, they expected to see our vessel dashed into a thousand pieces. They had wept for us, convinced, that without the intervention of the " Great Spirit," we could never have escaped the dangers. Verily, these brave savages were not mistaken. All who know the history of our passage affirm the same ; they cease not to congratulate us on so miracu- lous an escape. The second visit we received, was from some Tchinouks, a small tribe, inhabiting the immense forests of the northern shore. The Clatsops, whose number amounts to not more than one hundred and fifty men, occupy the southern shore. The Tchinouks inhabit three villages beyond the forest. The men wrap themselves in blankets when they appear before the " whites," and are excessively vain of their col- lars and ear-rings. Their disposition is extreme- ly sociable, and we found it necessary to be on the reserve, to prevent their too great familiari- OREGON MISSIONS. 73 ty. They are content, provided they be not driven away, and they require no further atten- tion paid them. They are of a peaceable tem- per, and, as their wants are easily supplied, they lead an inactive and indolent life. Fishing and the chase form their sole occupation. Game abounds in their forests, and their rivers are teeming with salmon. After providing for their daily wants, they spend entire hours motionless, basking in the sun ; it is needless to add, they live in the most profound ignorance of religion. These are the Indians who have the custom of flattening their children's heads. The following morning we perceived a small skis' making its way towards us. It belonged to Mr. Burney, the gentleman who, in our recent danger, had acted so friendly a part. He ac- costed us with the utmost kindness, and invited us to return with him to Fort Astoria, of which he is the Superintendant, that his wife and children might have the pleasure of seeing us. Persuaded, that after so tedious a voyage, the visit would be agreeable to all parties, I readily consented. Whilst this hospitable family were preparing dinner we made a little excursion into the neighboring forest. We were in admi- ration of the immense height and prodigious 74 OREGON MISSIONS. if. Il- bulk of the fir trees, many of which were two hundred feet high, and four and a half in diameter. We beheld one which measured forty-two feet in circumference. After a ramble of two hours, Mr. Burney re- conducted us to the fort. ^'^ In a second promenade several of our compa- ny greatly admired the tombs of the savage* The deceased is placed in a sort of canoe, or hollow trunk of a tree ; the body is then cover- ed with mats or skins ; and the savtige entomb- ing consists in thus suspending the corpse to the branches of trees, or exposing it on the banks of the river. In one place we saw about twelve of these sepulchres ; they are ordinarily found in places of difficult access, the better to secure them from the rapine of wild beasts. Not far from this cemetery one of our fathers, more curious than the others, wandered a little dis- tance into the woods ; he speedily hastened back, apparently in a panic, saying that he had seen the muzzle of a bear, which did not look very tame. I set out for Fort Vancouver the 2d August, wishing to reach there before my companions, that I might inform the Rev. Mr. Blanchet of our happy arrival. As to our fathers, the re- *' I OREGON MISSIONS. 75 re- mainder of their voyage may be summed up in few words. On the 3d and 4th their vessel was almost stationary, for want of a favorable wind. At a glance, their three days' voyage might be measured. Towards evening a gentle breeze sprung up, and thus permitted them to pursue their course. In a few hours they passed the rocks, extending the distance of six leagues. They were then enabled to keep the centre of the river, where the numerous windings of the stream compelled them to make continual mancpuvres. In this place the river is most magnificent : the smooth polished surface of the waters — the rapid current, almost concealed from view by the contraction of its rocky bed — the sullen roaring of tlie waterfalls and cascades — produce upon the mind an eifect of sublimity and grandeur not to be described. One is never wearv adniirinc: the ricliness, beauty, and vane- ty of these solitary regions. 'J'he shores on either side arc bordered by lofty forests, and crowned with thickly- wooded forests. It is more especially in the forest that the grand, the picturesfjue, the sublime, the beautil'ul, form the most sin'j:ul;ir and iUntastic combinat ions. From the loftiest giants of the forest down to the hum- I l\ l> 7G OREGON MISSIONS. in-. r» :i! Ml ; i! »# " blest shrubs, all excite the spectator's astonish- ment. The parasites form a characteristic fea- ture of these woodlands. They cling to the tree, climb it to a certain height, and then, letting their tops fall to the earth, again take root — again shoot up — push from branch to branch — from tree to tree, in every direction — until tangled, twisted, and knotted in every possi- ble form, they festoon the whole forest with dra- pery in which a ground- work of the richest ver- dure is diversified with garlands of the most va- ried and many-colored flowers. In ascending the Columbia we meet, from time to time, with bays of considerable extent, interspersed with hand- some little islands, which, thrown, as it were, like groups of flowers and verdure, present a charming spectacle. Here the painter should go to study his art — here would he find the love- liest scenery, the most varied and brilliant color- ing. At every step the scene becomes more ravishing; the perspective more noble and ma- jestic. In no other part of the world is nature so great a cof/ucUe as here. At length, on the 5th August, the vessel ar- rived at Fort Vancouver, about 7 o'clock i r», the evening. The governor, an excellent and truly pious man, together with his lady, and the most I OREGON MISSIONS. 77 respectable personages of the place, were as- sembled on the shore to receive us. As soon as the ship had cast anchor we landed, and hasten- ed to the fort, where we were received and treated with all possible cordiality. Here we were obliged to tarry eight days, for the Rev. Mr. Blanchet, who did not arrive till the 12th, not having recei\'ed my letter, informing him of our arrival. No sooner was he aware of it than he hastened to join us, bringing with him a con- siderable number of parishi-mers. lie had travelled the entire night and day, and we were delighted to meet this indefatigable clergyman. Though so comfortably situated at the fort, yet we were anxious to arrive as soon as possible at the place destined us by Divine Providence. The pious religious likewise sighed after their con- vent home of Willamette. Monsieur Blanchet accordingly made the necessary arrangement for our departure, and we left Fort Vancouver on the 14lh. An aflVeting adieu awaited us. Our worthy captain stood upon the shore. The emotion was sensibly felt by each one of us. For eight months we had shanul tlie same dangers, and so often stood togtilier, gazing in the very face of death : could we then restrain the parting i i 78 OREGON MISSIONS. .1' 1 tear, which seemed to gush from the fountain of the heart, as we remembered his kindness. Our little squadron consisted of four canoes, manned by the parishioners of Mr. Blanchet, and our own sloop. We sailed up the river, and soon entered the Willamette, whose waters flow into the Columbia. As night approached we moored our vessels and encamped upon the shore. There, grouped around the fire, we partook of our evening meal. The night was calm and serene — all nature was h;.^hed in profound silence — all invited us to repose ; but the swarms of musqueto«^s with which these woods abound, prevented our slum- ber. The religious, to whom we had yielded the tent, suffered equally with those who had nothing but the star-spangled canopy of heaven above them. You will not, consequently, be surprised, thnt the night appeared somewhat long, and that the morning's dawn (bund us on foot. It was thv^ festival of the glorious As- sumption of the Mother of God, which, in these regions, is usually solemnized on the following Sunday. Aided by the religious, J erected a small altar. Mr. Blanchet offered the Holy Sacrifice, at which all communicated. Finally, the 17th, about 11 o'clock, we came OREGON MISSIONS. 79 in sight of our dear mission of Willamette. Mr. Blancliet charged himself with the trans- portation of our baggage. A cart was pro- cured to conduct the religious to their dwelling, which is about five miles from the river. In two hours we were all assembled in the chapel of Willamette, to adore and thank our Divine Saviour, by the solemn chanting of the Te Deum, in which all aearts and lips joined with lively emotion. Early in the morning of Sunday, the 18th, the day on which the Assumption is celebrated here, we saw the Canadian cavaliers arriving in crowds with their wives and children, whom they had brought from great distances, to assist at the solemn services of the church. At 9 o'clock all were arranged in perfect order in the church ; the men on one side, the women on the other. The K* v. Mr. Blanchet celebrate;! the Auuust Sac-iflce, assisted by twenty acol^ tes. Tlie piety of his parishioners contributed much to our edification. On arriving at the mission of St. Paul, of Wilhimette, we proc(MHled at once to the resi- dence of the A^eiy Rev. Mr. IJlanchet, who re- ceived u« with the greatest kindness, and im- mediately placed at our disposal e . erything on f; ) ■■, V , il . "'M 80 OREGON MISSIONS. the place. My first care was, to seek some convenient locality where, according to the plan of our Very Rev. Father General, a mother mis- sion could be established. For this purpose I made several unsuccessful excursions into the adjacent country. The most eligible situations were already occupied. The Methodists, in- deed, offered to sell me their Academy, which is a sulTiciently large and handsome house, but entirely destitute of wood and arable laud. In tl is perplexity Mr. Blanchet relieved me, by a g.nerous and disinterested oflcr. He proposed tr> examine the property belonging to the mis- ■-lon, and take such portions of it as I should judge most proper for oar projected establish- ment. We accordingly set out on this new ex- cursion ; but we hnd scarcely proceeded two miles when we came to a point uniting every desirable advantage. Picture to yourself an immense plain extending as far .as the eye can r'^ach ; on one side the snow y crests of the gigantio Hood, Jefferson, and St. Helena (the three highest peal s of Oregon), towering ma- jestically upwards, f;nd losing ^hvnnselves in the clouds; on the east a long range of distant hills, their blue-tinged sunnnits melting, as it were, into the deep azure of the sky ; on the west the -,.i.*. OREGON MISSIONS. m i 1 eye >t' the (the i limpid waters of two small lakes, on whose beautiful shores the beaver, the otter, and the musk-rat, sport in careless security, heedless of our presence. The elevation on which we were standing, gradually sloping downward, and forming a charming amphitheatre, extended to the borders of one of the lakes. I hesitated not a moment in selecting this spot for the mother mission. The sweet recollections of our first establishment on the Missouri returned to my mind ; and the remembrance of the rapid pro- gress of the Mission of St. Stanislaus, near St. Ferdinand, whose branches now extend over the greater part of Missouri, Ohio, Louisiana, reaching even the Rocky Mountains, and pene- trating to the eastern boundary of America, led me to breathe a fervent prayer, that here, also, might be formed a station, whence the torch of faith would dilfuse its cheering light among the benighted tribes of this immense Territory. We have also a line view of the \Viilan:ette River, which, in this pUice, makes a sadden bend, continuing its course amidst dense forests, which promise an almost inexhaustible supply of materials for the construction of our mission house. In no part of tliis region have I met with a more luxuriant growth of pine, fir, elm, 1i If t t_ ■ ;i| ■ f ■'If > i-s! . «. ■; . i i i 1 • i 82 OREGON MISSIONS. oak, buttonbaU, and yew trees. The inter- vening country is beautifully diversified with shadowy groves and smiling plains, whose rich soil yields abundant harvests, sufficient for the maintenance of a large establishment. Besides these advantages, there are a number of springs, on one side of the hill, one of which is not more than 100 feet from the house, and it will proba- bly be of great use hereafter. Having now made choice of the locality, we commenced without delay the erection of tiie buildings* The first thing to be done was to clear the ground by cutting away the under-brush and isolated trees, after which, with the aid of the inhabitants, we constructed three wooden build- ings, covered by a single roof of 90 feet ; these were to serve as workshops for the brother blacksmith, carpenter, etc. Besides these, a house, 45 by 35 feet, is now under way. It is to be two stories, and will be the dwelling-house of the missionaries. We arrived in the Oregon Territory dunng the prevalence of a disease (bloody flux) which was considered contagious. Though tlie physi- cians attributed it to the unwholesome proper- ties of the river-water. Numbers of savages fell victims to it, especially among the Tchi- 1 I -4.^ OREGON MISSIONS. 83 nter- with i rich r the isides rings, more iroba- now enced dings* ,r the ti and of the build- these rother s now d will |[luring I which Iphysi- ^roper- Lvages Tchi- nouks, and the Indians of the Cascades, large parties of whom encamped along the banks of the river, on their way to Vancouver, to obtain the aid of a physician. Those who could not proceed were abandoned by their friends ; and it was truly painful to see these poor creatures stretched out, and expiring on the sand. The greater part of our sailors, and three of the sisters, were attacked by the pestilence ; the Rev. Father Accolti also experienced its terrible effects ; for myself, I was obliged to keep my bed during 15 long days, and to observe a rigo- rous diet. But the captain of our vessel was the greatest sufferer. The disease attacked him so violently, that I seriously fear he will never again return to the cherished family — the affectionate wife and children of whom he used daily to speak with so much tenderness. He was a worthy man — an experienced and skilfu] navigator ; I esteemed him highly, although I could not forbear blaming him for the little courage he had shown in repressing the profane language of one of the passengers, who, i'rom the time of his embarkation until we landed him at Fort Vancouver, had never ceased to offend our ears by his horrid oaths. The Almighty has denounced his curse against the blasphemer ' 1 i' f . r 84 OREGON MISSIONS. iff i and sooner or later it will fall upon him. Poor " Indefatigable," I tremble for thy fate. The winter was rapidly approaching, and, notwithstanding my weak state, I could i^ot re- sist my pressing desire to visit, once more, my dear Indians of the mountains, who, on their side, await my return with the greatest impa- tience, as I was informed by the Rev. F. Men- garini, who had come to meet me. To-day I shall have the happiness to set out for the Rocky Mountains. I am, &:c., P. J. DE SMET. P. S. — On. the 9th September the good sis- ters commenced instructing the women and childien, who were preparing for their first com- munion. As their house was not yet habitable, they were obliged to give their instructions in the open air. In three days' time they had al- ready 19 pupils, from 16 to 60 years of age, all of whom came from a distance, bringing with them provisions for several days, and sleeping in the woods, exposed to all the inclemencies of the weather. It is easy to conceive by this how eager these poor people are for instruction. Each day the sisters devote six hours to teach" Poor g, and, uot re- )re, my m their t impa- \ Men- 'o-day I B Rocky GT. ood sis- len and rst com- ibitable, tions in had al- age, all ng with sleeping encies of this how truction. o teach^ OREGON MISSIONS. 85 ing them the usual prayers, and manner of making the sign of the cross. On one occasion, it was discovered that a woman had remained two days without food ; the dogs had devoured her little provision, and, lest she should miss the instruction, she was unwilling to go home for another supply. 24th. — The convent having as yet neither doors nor sashes, owing to t!'<^ scarcity of me- chanics, some of these goou .^jisters were seen endeavoring to handle the plane, others glazing, painting the windows and doors, &c. They were the more ardently desirous for the comple- tion of their new habitation, as already thirty Canadian pupils had been offered them ; and thus would they be enabled to procure the means of giving a gratuitous support and pro- tection to the hapless orphans of the forests. These poor children, rescued from their desti- tute condition, and placed under the benign care of the kind Sisters, would enjoy the blessings of a Christian education, and become, one day, co- operators in the mission. But, to eflect this, and to realize the cheering hopes it holds forth, funds must be raised to provide the necessary clothing for the orphans, as the profits arising from the school will not be more than sufficient to defray **> ^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 4^ 4^ 4^ 1.0 I.I I £ Ifi 110 L25 iu IE ^ ^ ^^ /a Sciences Corporation 4^ ^ N? V ^<^ ^, '^ ^. as WIST MAIN STRUT VyitSTIR.N.Y. 14SM (71*)a7a-4S03 \ " 'i I 86 OREGON MISSIONS. u f(*' i ^'^l ir. I 1 the expenses of their board. I here give you the brilliant prospectus of their Academy. Per quar- ter, lOOlbs flour, 25lbs pork, or 36 of beef, 1 sack of potatoes, 4lbs hogs' lard, 3 gallons peas, 3 doz. eggs, 1 gallon salt, 4lbs candles, lib tea, 4lbs rice. The Sisters took possession of their convent in the month of October ; a few days after, their chapel was solemnly consecrated by the Rev. Mr. Blanchet ; and they have since enjoyed the happiness of assisting every day at the Holy Sacrifice of the Mass, ofliered up at their simple altar by one of the missionaries, stationed at St. Francis Xavier. They have also twice had the consolation of presenting at the table of the Lord the little band of fervent neophytes, whom they had prepared with so much care, for this solemn action. This success, in so short a time, has induced us to conceive the project of found- ing another house of this order in the village of Cuhutc. Monsieur Blanchet and Father De Vos think, that the departure of the Protestant ministers, on account of their fruitless labors, renders this an auspicious moment for the es- tablishment of a religious house. The station of Willamette would furnish occupation sufli- cient for twelve Sisters, but unfortunately they are but six in number. II OREGON MISSIONS. 87 We le.arn with pleasure that it is the inten- tion of Monseigneur Blanchet to visit Europe immediately after his consecration, in order to obtain, if possible, twelve more of these zeiilous and devoted religious, for the mission. God grant he may succeed ; and that the want of pecuniary means may not oppose an insur- mountable obstacle to the generous sacrifice, which, we are all well-assured, the pious Sisters of the Congregation of Notre Dame are disposed to make again in our behalf. 88 OREGON MISSIONS. No. III. A. M. D. G. V ' •J V'' I 1 \^' At the Foot of the Great (lluciere, one of the Upper Sources of the Athabasca lliver, May, Gth, 184G. MoNSEiGXEUR, — I aiu lato, but not forgetlul of my duty and promisrs, Ibr I will remem])rr the many obligations I have contracted, and the happy hours 1 passed, when travelling in your paternity's company. I now come to redeem them, by troubling you with a dozen Rocky Mountain letters, including a narrative of my last year's excursions and missions among seve- ral Indian tribes ; of what I have seen and heard ; and of what happened, as I was travelling along. I hope my letters m.ay be consoling to you, and serve as a proof that the work of God is progressing among the long-benighted chil- dren of the Oregon d(^sert, and among the lone- ly tribes on the northern waters of the great Mackenzie River. Four priests from Red River will soon find ample employment in the dreary regions of the Hudson Ray Territory. How lamentable it is, that the great western desert alone, extending from the States to the eastern O R E r. C) N MISSIONS. 89 base of tlie Rocky Mountains, and south to the Mexican lines, should be lyinji^ waste. This ^vould, indeed, present an extensive field to the zeal of Catholic missionaries ; and, iVoin my personal observations, and those of all the priests who have passed this d(»sert, their efforts would be crowned with the greatest success. Indi.'ins are, in general, carelessly judged and little known in the civilized world ; people will form their opinions from what they see among the Indians on the frontiers, where the " lire w^ater," and all the degrading vices of the whites have caused the greatest havoc. The farther one penetrates into the desert the better he linds the aborigines ; and, in general, 1 found them most willing and anxious to n^ceive re- ligious instruction, and to hear the good tidings of salvation. A bishop, and two or three priests, who would make it their business to visit the difler- ent tribes of this vast land, remaining among each of the trib(»s a reasonable and sulficit^nt time to instruct the Indians, would most certain- ly meet with the most abundant harvest ; the ^5calping-knife might thus soon be laid aside, and where the Indian war-whoop has for cen- turies resounded, might be h<*ard in its stead, *^: li i »■ .5 V f' ) h'P 90 OREGON MISSKJNS. the canticles and praises of the true and only living God. The idea of collecting and settling these wandering nations, would, in my humble opinion, be impossible, or, at least, a very slow work. The Indians might be made good Chris- tians, and still continue, at the same time, to lead a hunter's life, as long as buffalo and deer will supply their wants. Nothing, but the interest I feel for these poor people, and the assurance I have that they will find a patron and friend in your paternity, make me bold enough to make an appeal to you in their favor, so that a speedy remedy may be applied to the existing and most distressing want of this Large district of the United States. Thousands of whites are well cared for and are straying from the true path — th(^ Indians have likewise souls to be saved, redeemed by the Saviour's precious blood, and thousands of these bereft children are most anxious to enjoy the salutary blessings with which their white breth- ren are favored. I remain, with the greatest esteem and re- spect, recommending myself at the same time to your holy sacrifices and prayers. Your very humble and obedient servJint in Christ. P. I. DE SMET, S. J. * ■!.;* OREGON MISSIONS. 01 No. IV. A. M. D. G. St. Francis Xavier, Willamette, June 20th, 1845. Right Rev. Bishop, Sir, — In the beginning of February, I set out to visit our different settlements and stations, and to form new ones among the neighboring tribes of our reductions. The entire surfece of this region was then covered with snow, five feet deep ; and I was compelled to go from the Bay of Pends-d'oreilles to the Horse Plain, in a bark canoe, a distance of 250 miles. I was among my dear Flatheads and Pends- d'oreilles (ear-rings) of the mountains, during the Paschal time, and had the great consolation of finding them replete with zeal and fervor in fulfilling the duties of true children of prayer. The solemn feast of Easter, all the Flatheads at St. Mary's devoutly approached the most bless- ed sacrament during my mass ; and about three hundred Pends-d'oreilles ^ (the greater number adults), belonging to the station of St. Francis .-'. •^ ■■'i 92 OREGON MISSIONS. if ^ il \ Borgia, presented themselves at the baptismal font. Five chiefs were among the number ; the most distinguished are SlietticdloodshOf or chief- tain of the Tribe Valiant ; Sclpisto^ the head chieftain, and Chalax^ that is to say the White Rohe, surnamed the Juggler or great medicine man. The word medicine man, in their language, is synonymous with juggler. How consoling it is to pour the regenerating waters of baptism on the furrowed and scarified brows of these desert warriors, — to behold these children of the plains and forests emerg- ing from that profound ignorance and supersti- tion in which they have been for so many ages deeply and darkly enveloped ; to see them em- brace the faith and all its sacred practices, with an eagerness, an attention, a zeal, worthy the pristine Christians. Were I to give you the history of these chiefs, I should greatly exceed the limits I have pro- posed. Suffice it to say, that these heroes of the Rocky Mountains have been for years the terror of their enemies. Chalax had acquired great celebrity as a juggler, and in predicting future events ; if we may credit the Kalispels and the whites who have travelled in company with him, these prophecies have been verified. nal the ief- ead kite ;ine ige, ing fied lold jrg- •sti- ges em- nth the efs, 3ro- s of the ired ting pels any led. Iff " I ft II ■■o p ■ H -J C/5 -y3 o Pi- r— I c ,1 I'l^ OREGON MISSIONS. 03 ■V en O 2: r— ' c IIo indicated tho day, the place, and the numher of Bldchfcct who would attack their camp. Having interrogated him relative to this all'air, he, with great simplicity and candor, replied : " I am called the Great Doctor, yet, never have I given myself up to the practices of Juggling, nor condescended to exercise its deceptions. I derive all my strength from prayer ; when in a hostile country, I address myself to the Master of life, and offer Him my heart and soul, en- treating him to protect us against our enemies. A voice had ah'eady warned me of coming danger ; I then recommend prudence and vigilance throughout the camp ; for the moni- tory voice has never dec(uved me. I have now a favor to request: the mysterious voice calls me hy the name of Chah(x\ and, if you will permit, I desire to bear that name until my death." I willingly consented, Jind then ex- plained to him the ceremony of the White Gar- vient he was about to receive, in the holy sacra- ment of baptism. To the name of Chalax I afiixed that of the Prince of the Apostles. This is the same chief, who on my first visit to the mountains, aided by only sixty men, sustained during live days, an obstinate struggle against 200 lodges of Blachfcct, >■;* I- •• ?■ Oi OREGON MISSIONS. i I leaving on the p^round eighty men, whilst among the Flathcads only one man was wound- ed, lie died three months after. With regret I parted from these good Indians, and my beloved brothers in .Tesus Christ, the Rev. Fathers Mengarini, Zerbinati, and four coadjutor brothers ; who are laboring with in- defatigable zeal in this portion of our Lord's vineyard. As the snow was fast disappearing, the Kalis- pels of the bay were awaiting my arrival. I re-entered my fragile canoe, guided by two Indians, and made all possible haste to descend Clarke's River. You may judge of its impetu- osity when I inform you, that we were sixteen days ascending the river, and but four in de- scending the same. On returning to the bay, accompanied by Rev. Father Ilocken and seve- ral chiefs, my first care was to examine the lands belonging to this portion of the Tribe of Kalispels, and select a fit site for erecting the new establishment of St. Ignatius. We found a vast and beautiful prairie, three miles in ex- tent, surrounded by cedar and pine, in the neighborhood of the cavern of New Manrese, and its quarries, and a fall of water more than two hundred feet, presenting every advantage OREGON MISSIONS. 95 for the erection of mills. I felled the first tree, and after having taken all necessary measures to expedite the work, 1 departed for Walla Walla, where I embarked in a small boat and descended the Columbia, as far as Fort Van- couver. The melting of the snow had occa- sioned a considerable freshet, and our descent was very rapid. The place was indicated to me where a few months previously, four travel- lers from the United States had miserably per- ished, victims of their own temerity and pre- sumption. When advised to pvovide themselves with a guide, they answered they had no need of any ; and when warned that the river was dangerous and deceptive, the pilot, with a scoff- ing boast, replied, " I am capable of guiding my barge, were it even across the infernal gulf." The monitor wished them a fortunate voyage, but at the same time trembled for their fate, saying : " This pilot is not a native Indian, he is not an Iroquois, nor even a Canadian." The turbulent stream soon engulfed its presumptuous and daring victims. They steered out into the midst of the river, and in an instant the canoe was borne along with the rapidity of lightning, leaving in its train a thick foam, caused by the violent plying of oars. Approaching the rapids, Si'l 96 OREGON MISSIONS. '^f 4 I i III they fearlessly hurried onward — alas, their fate was soon to be decided. Drawn by the eddy into the centre of a whirlpool, vainly they struggled to extricate themselves — they beheld the dread abyss yawning to receive its prey ! Yet, an instant, the ill-fated barge twirled upon the surface, and then sank, amidst the despair- ing shrieks of the helpless crew, which the roaring waves rendered the more appalling, whilst the dismal sounds re-echoing from shore to shore, proclaimed the new disaster of the "Columbia." Soon the waters resumed their wonted course, and* left no trace of the sad catastrophe. This fatal spot might appropriately be designated, Presumptive's R«apids ; doubtless, it will be a lesson to future boasters, not to venture, without pilot or guide, upon this for- midable tributary of the western ocean. After a prosperous voyage of five days, I de- barked at Vancouver, where I had the happiness of meeting Father Nobili, who, during eight months, had applied himself to study the Indian language, while he exercised his sacred min- istry among the Catholics of the fort and the Indians of the neighborhood. More than a tenth of the latter had been swept off by a mortal disease ; happily, they all had the con- OREGON MISSIONS. 97 solation of receiving baptism before they ex- pired. Father Nobili accompanied me in a Tchi- nouk canoe, up the beautiful River of Multono- mah or Willamette, a distance of about sixty miles, as far as the village of Champois, three miles from our residence of St. Francis Xavier. On our arrival all the fathers came to meet us, and great was our delight in being .again re- united after a long winter season. The Italian fathers had Jipplied themselves chiefly to the study of languages. Father Ravalli, being skilled in medicine, rendered considerable ser- vices to the inhabitants of St. Paul's Mission ; for every dwelling contained several sick. Fa- ther Vercruysse, at the request of Right. Rev. Bishop Blanchet, opened a mission among the Canadians who were distant from St. PauFs, and he succeeded in causing them to contribute to the erection of a new church, in a central location. Father De Vos is the only one of our fathers of Willamette who speaks Finglish. He devotes his whole attention to the Americans, whose number already exceeds 4,000. There are several Catholic families, and our dissenting bre- thren seem well disposed ; many among them are eager to be instructed in the Catholic faith. t,: I' I ^^^ 98 I i - ;, f i\ III OREGON MISSIONS. Nowhere does religion make greater progress, or present brighter prospects for the future, than in Oregon Territory. The Very Rev. Mr. De- mers, Vicar General and Administrator of the diocess in the absence of the bishop, is prepar- ing to build a brick cathedral. There is now being built, under his superintendence, a fine church at the Falls of Willamette, where, three years ago, was commenced the first town of Oregon. This rising village numbers more than 100 houses. Several lots have been selected for a convent and two schools. A Catholic church has been erected at Vancouver. The Convent of the Sisters of Notre Dame is fast progressing, and it will be the finest build- ing of Willamette. The church is eighty feet long, and proportionably wide ; it is under the invocation of the Blessed Virgin. The religious have already fifty boarders. The Bishop's Col- lege, under the management of the Very Rev. Mr. Bolduc, is very prosperous. The number of pupils has augmented ; forty young men, chiefly Metisy are receiving a Christian educa- tion. Some years ago, a church was erected at Cowlitz, and the inhabitants are now preparing to construct a convent under the direction of Rev. Mr. Langlois. k OREGON MISSIONS. 90 Our residence of St. Francis Xavier is com- pleted ; it will hereafter serve for a novitiate and seminary, to prepare young men for the missions. Measures, which I trust will be realized, have been taken by our fathers for visiting, during this year, the numerous tribes inhabiting the Pacific coast north and south of the Columbia ; where, already, the visits of the bishop and his grand vicar have been so productive of favor- able results. The 17th Feb., 1842, Bishop Blanchet thus wrote to the Bishop of Quebec : " God has deigned to bless our labors, and to fructify the divine word. The adorable name of Jesus has been announced to new nations of the north. Mr. Demers bent his steps to Fort Langley on Frazer's River, in which place he adminislrred baptism to upwards of 700 chil- dren. Many of them already enjoy the pre- cious fruits of reg«'ncrating grace. In my preceding letters, I gave you the details of our missions among the mountains of the higher Oregon ; of the conversion of two tribes, the Flaf/uffds and the Cnurs- * \ :: V ' \f '■ I : £ • 1 l| WJ t. P N 1 ( f I- 100 OREGON MISSIONS. 1839, when the mission was established, to July, 1845, the reverend Canadian missionaries bap- tized 3,000 persons. The number of Catholics residing at the different stations of the Hon. Hudson Bay Co. in Oregon, together with the colonists of the same nation, amounts to seve- ral hundreds. By adding to these 2857 bap- tized since 1841 in the different mountain missions, it gives us a total of more than 6,000 Catholics in Oregon. The diminutive grain of mustard is fast extending far and wide its branches, over this once sterile and neglected region. In the month of June, Father Nobili, accompanied by a brother novice, left Willa- mette to visit the tribes of New Caledonia. The Very Rev. Mr. Demcrs saw the following named tribes : Kameloupsj the Atnans or Shou- wapcmotf the Portcurs or Ltavten, which names vary according to the different places where the tents are pitched. They aflix the word ten which signifies people, i. e., Stclaotcti, Nashko' tcrif Tchilkotcn, Nazetcotcn. Rev. Mr. Demers had the consolation of baptizing 486 children among these tribes. Such has since been the fervor and zeal of these poor Indians ; who. though deprived of a priest, have built three churches, hoping that a OREGON RIISSIONS. 101 nepapayattok, or father would settle anion vr th em. Many Catholics reside in the diflerent forts of this country. The honorable gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Co., although Protestants, were strongly interested in favor of these savages, and did all in their power to facilitate the intro- duction of a clergyman into this portion of their jurisdiction. I have the honor to be, with the most pro- found respect and esteem, Monseigneur, your most humble and obedient servant in Jesus Christ. P. J. DE SMET, S. J. 102 OREGON MISSIONS, No. V. A. M. D. G. 7 •■ Kalispel Bay, Aug. 7th, 1845. MoNSEiGNEUR, — A fcw days after the departure of Father Nobili, who obtained a place in a barge belonging to the Hon. Hudson Bay Co., I started from St. Francis Xavier's with eleven horses laden with ploughs, spades, pickaxes, scythes, and carpenters' implements. My com- panions were the good Brother McGil, and two metis or mongrels. We encountered many obstacles and difficulties among the mountains, owing to the cascades formed by the water, which, at this season, descends on every side in torrents, and with irresistible fury upon the rocks, over which we were compelled to cross. In the narrow valleys between these mountains, the rhododendron displays all its strength and beauty ; it rises to the height of fifteen or twenty feet. Entire groves are formed by thousands of these shrubs, whose clustering branches entwine themselves in beautiful green OREGON MISSIONS. 103 arches, adorned with innumerable bouquets of splendid flowers, varying their hues from the pure white, to the deepened tint of the crimson- ed rose. Our path was strewed with the whitened bones of horses and oxen, melancholy testimo- nies of the miseries endured by other travellers through these regions. We passed the foot of Mt. Hood, the most elevated of this stupendous chain. It is covered with snow, and rises 16.000 feet above the level of the sea. Capt. Wyeth, on beholding this ridge from the summit of the Blue Mountains, thus speaks of it in his journal : — " The traveller on advancing wester- ly, even at the distance of IGO miles, beholds the peaks of the Cascade Mountains. Several of them rise 10,000 feet above the level of the sea. Every other natural wonder seems to dwindle, as it were, into insignificance when compared to this." From one single spot I con- templated seven of these majestic summits ex- tending from north to south, whose dazzling white and conic form resemble a sugar loaf. We were twenty days going from Willamette to Walla Walla, across desert and undulating lands, abounding in absinthium or wormwood, cactus, tufted grass, and several species of such i'! ..■■ 104 OREGON MISSIONS. plants and herbs as are chiefly found in a sterile and sand \y soil. Game is scarce in these latitudes ; however, we found large partridges and pheasants,, aquatic fowls, small birds of various kinds, hares and rabbits. Salamanders swarm in sandy places, and armadilloes are not rare in the vicinity of the great Dalles. Fort Walla Walla is situated in latitude 4G° 2', and longi- tude 119° 30'. The sandy neighborhood of this settlement likens it to a little Arabia. The River Walla Walla pours its waters a mile dis- tant from the fort. The lowlands, when water- ed, are tolerably fertile, and produce maize, wheat, potatoes, and pulse of every kind. Cows and hogs are easily raised, and horses abound in this part of the country. Having already spoken to you of the desert Nez-Perce and Spokane, I have nothing further to add relative to this dreary region. On ad- vancing easterly towards the Blue Mountains, we find beautiful and fertile plains, interspersed with limpid and wholesome streams. The val- leys are picturesque, covered with luxuriant prairies, and forests of pine and fir. The NeZ' Perc6 Kayuses inhabit these delightful pastures. They are the most wealthy tribes in Oregon ; 4 OREGON MISSIONS, 105 :erile ever, sants,. cinds, m in Lre in Valla longi- f this The ie dis- vater- naize, kind, lorses desert rther 1 ad- tains, versed val- ariant Nez- tures. egon; even some private families possess 1500 horses. The savages successfully cultivate potatoes, pease, corn, and several kinds of vegetables and fruits. No situation affords finer grazing for cattle ; even in winter they find an abundance, nor do they need shelter from the inclemency of the weather. Snow is never seen, and the rains are neither destructive nor superabundant. About the middle of July, I arrived safely with all my effects, at the Bay of Kalispels. In my absence the number of neophytes had con- siderably increased. On the feast of the Ascen- sion, Father Hocken had the happiness of bap- tizing more than one hundred adults. Since my departure in the spring, our little colony has built four houses, prepared materials for con- structing a small church, and enclosed a field of 300 acres. More than four hundred Kalispels^ computing adults and children have been bap- tized. They are all animated with fervor and zeal ; they make use of the hatchet and plough, being resolved to abandon an itinerant life for a permanent abode. The beautiful falls of the Columbia, called the Chaudieres, in the vicinity of Fort Colville, are distant two days' journey from our new residence of St. Ignatius. From eight to nine hundred savages were I I m L'j ( Mi :i ill: 106 OREGON MISSIONS. there assembled for the salmon fishery. I re- paired thither in time to spend with them the nine days preceding the feast of our holy founder. Within the last four years, consider- able numbers of these Indians were visited by the " black-gowns," who administered the sacra- ment of baptism. I was received by my dear Indians with filial joy and tenderness. I caused my little chapel of boughs to be placed on an eminence in the midst of the Indians' huts, where it might not inaptly be compared to the pelican of the wilderness surrounded by her young, seeking wdth avidity the divine word, and shel- tering themselves under the protection of their fostering mother. I gave three instructions daily ; the Indians assisted at them with great assiduity and attention. Last year, the feast of St. Ignatius proved for me a day of danger, trial, and uneasiness. I love to recall it to my mind, for it terminated joyfully, and so gloriously, that I know my com- panions can never forget it, and they will return lasting thanks to the Almighty, for the display of His mercy. Without a chart or any knowledge of the mouth of the Columbia, we traversed, as if borne on angels' wings, this formidable river. This year, I passed the feast OREG ON MISSIONS. 107 I re- ;m the holy isider- ted by sacra- ^ dear caused on an where )elican young, d shel- if their actions L great proved ess. I linated y com- y will -br the or any )ia, we s, this e feast of St. Ignatius amidst many occupations, but they were of such a nature as to console the missionary's heart, and repay him a hundred- fold, for the trifling privations, pains, and fa- tigues he endures. More than one hundred children were pre- sented for baptism, and eleven old men borne to me on skins, seemed only awaiting the regen- erating waters, to depart home and repose in the bosom of their divine Saviour. The eldest among them, apparently about one hundred, and blind, addressed me in the following pathetic words : — My life has been long on earth, and my tears have not ceased to flow ; even now I daily weep, for I have beheld all my children and early associates disappear. I find myself isolated among my own nation, as if I were in a stranger land, thoughts of the past alone occupy me, and they are of a mournful and bitter nature. Sometimes I find consola- tion in remembering that I have avoided the company of the wicked. Never have I shared in their thefts, battles or murders. This blessed day, joy has penetrated the inmost recesses of my soul ; the Great Spirit has taken pity on me, 1, I return him thanks ■ M recei bapti for this favor, and offer him my heart and life. 1 108 OREGON MIHSIOKS, m \i ■ ■ i ! 'i 1 ' , • ! • 1 ^^ ^ A solemn mass was celebrated, during which the Indians chanted canticles in praise of God. The ceremonies of baptism followed, and all terminated in the most perfect order, to the great delight and gratification of the savages. It was indeed a most imposing spectacle, all around contributed to heighten the effect. The noble, and gigantic rock, the distant roar of the cataracts breaking in on the religious silence of that solitude, situated on an eminence overlook- ing the powerful Oregon River, and on the spot where the impetuous waters freeing themselves from their limits, rush in fury, and dash over a pile of rocks, casting upwards a thousand j6ts d'eau, whose transparent columns reflect, in varied colors, the rays of the dazzling sun. There were besides the Shuyelphi or Chau- diere Indians, the Sinpoils the Zingomenes and several Kalispds, accompanied me in the capacity of singers and catechists. I gave the name of St. Paul to the Shuyelphi nation, and placed under the care of St. Peter the tribe inhabiting the shores of the great Columbia lakes, whither Father Hocken is about to repair, to continue instructing and baptizing their adults. My presence among the Indians did not interrupt their fine and abun- OREGON MISSIONS. 109 kvhich ' God. id all ;o the vages. le, all The of the ince of 3rlook- le spot iselves over a nd j6ts ect, in in. Chau- les and in the kuyelphi it. Peter great cken is Lng and long the d abun- dant fishery. An enormous basket was fastened to a projecting rock, and the finest fish of the Columbia, as if l)y fascination, cast themselves by dozens into the snare. Seven or eight times during the day, these baskets were examined, and each time were found to contain about 250 salmon. The Indians, meanwhile, were seen on every projecting rock, piercing the fish with the greatest dexterity. They who know not this territory may accuse me of exaggeration, when I affirm, that it would be as easy to count the pebbles so profusely scattered on the shores, as to sum up the number of difierent kinds of fish, which this western river furnishes for man\s support ; as the buffalo of the north, and deer from north to east of the mountains, furnish daily food for the in- habitants of those regions, so do these fish supply the wants of the western tribes. One may form some idea of the quantity of salmon and other fish, by remarking, that at the time they ascend the rivers, all the tribes inhabiting the shores, choose a favorable location, and not only do they find abundant nutriment during the season, but, if diligent, they dry, and also pulverize and mix with oil a sufficient quantity for the rest of the year. Incalculable shoals of I' I' «» k ^■'1 .s. r ■ it ' ii^......fl 110 OREGON MISSIONS. salmon ascend to the river*s source, and there die in shallow water. Great quantities of trout and carp follow them, and regale themselves on the spawn deposited by the salmon in holes and still water. The following spring the young salmon descend towards the sea, and I have been told, (I cannot vouch for the authenticity,) that they never return until the fourth year. Six different species are found in the Columbia River. I left Chaudiere or Kettle Falls, August 4th, accompanied by several of the nation of the Crees to examine the lands they have selected for the site of a village. The ground is rich and well suited for all agricultural purposes. Several buildings were commenced ; I gave the name of St. Francis Regis to this new station, "where a great number of the mixed race and beaver hunters have resolved to settle, with their families. The 6th I traversed the high mountains of the Kalispels^ and towards evening reached the establishment of St. Ignatius. The Rev. Fathers Hocken and Ravalli, with two lay brothers, superintend this interesting little settle- ment. These fathers likewise visit the different neighboring tribes, such as the ZingomeneSr Sinpoils, Okinaganes, the stations of St. Francis OREGON MISSIONS. Ill Regis, of St. Peter, and that of St. Paul, the Flathows, and the Koetenays, I purpose visiting these two tribes, who have never j^et had the consolation of beholding a "black gown" among them. All these tribes comprehend, on an average, about five hundred souls. I am, with profound respect and esteem. Your lordship's most obedient servant, P. J. DE SMET, S. J. ^s high i 112 OREG ON MI SSIONS, .■J . * I ■i-V ■ ! No. VI. A. M. D. G. Stationof the Assumption, Arcs-a-plats, August 17th, 1845. MoNSEiGNEUR, — The 9th of August I continued my route towards the country of the Arcs-a- plats, The roads were still inundated by the great freshet. I preferred ascending the Clark or Flathead River, in my bark canoe, and sent my horses across the forests bordering the river, to await me at the great lake of the Kalispcls, I had here a very agreeable and unexpected in- terview ; as we approached the forests, several horsemen issued forth in. tattered garments. The foremost gentleman saluted me by name, with all the familiarity of an old acquaintance. I returned the gracious salutation, desiring to know whom I had the honor of addressing. A small river separated us, and, with a smile, he said, "Wait until 1 reach the opposite shore, and then you will recognise mc." He is not a 1 « OREGON MISSIONS. 113 beaver hunter, said I to myself; yet under this tattered garb and slouched hat, I could not easily descry one of the principal members of the Hon. Hudson Bay Co., the worthy and respect- able Mr. Ogden. I had the honor and good fortune of making a voyage with him, and in his own barge, from Colville to Fort Vancouver, in 1842 ; and no one could desire more agreeable society. It would be necessary for you to tra- verse the desert, to feel yourself insulated, remote from brethren, friends, to conceive the consolation and joy of such an rencounter. Mr. Ogden left England in the month of April last, accompanied by two distinguished officers. It was a source of great pleasure to receive recent news from Europe. The Oregon cpiestion appeared to me somewhat alarming. It Avas neither curiosity nor pleasure that in- duced these two oflicers to cross so many deso- late regions, and hasten their course towards ihe mouth of the Columbia. They were invest- ed with orders from their government to take possession of "Cape Disappointment," to hoist the English standard, and (M*ect a fortress for the purpose of securing the entrance of the river, in case of war. In the Oregon question, " John Bull," without much talk, attains his 114 OREGON MISSIONS. ^Ivh It'-^ I I * 1: i^l' end, and secures the most important part of the country; whereas "Uncle Sam," displodes a volley of words, inveighs and storms ! Many years have been passed in debates and useless contention, without one single practical effort to secure his real or pretended rights. The poor Indians of Oregon, who alone have a right to the country, are not consulted. Their future destiny will be, undoubtedly, like that of so many other unfortunate tribes, who, after hav- ing lived peaceably by hunting and fishing, during several generations, will finally disap- pear, victims of vice and malady, under the rapacious influence of modern civilization. The route from the great Kalispcl lake to the Arcs-a-plafSf or Flatbow country, is across dense forests, and much obstructed by fallen trees, morasses, frightful sloughs, from which the poor horses with much difiiculty extricate them- selves ; but, having finally surmounted all these obstacles, we contemplate from an emi- nence a smiling and accessible valley, whose mellow and abundant verdure is nourished by two lovely lakes, where the graceful river of the Arcs-a-plats or McGilvray, winds in such fan- tastic beauty, that it serves to make the weary traveller not only forget his past dangers, but OREGON MISSIONS. 115 amply compensates him for the fatigues of a long and tiresome journey. This section of the valley of Arcs-a-plats greatly resembles the two valleys of the Pointed Hearts; same fertility of soil, lakes, pastures, willow and pine groves ; elevated mountains covered to the very summit with dense forests of trees, low lands, in which the towering cedar displays all its majesty and splendid foliage ; and, as Racine says : — " Elevent aux cieux Leurs fronts audacieux ! " The river is, in this place, deep and tranquil ; moving along with a tardy pace until aroused from its inertness by the universal thaw ; it then descends with such astounding impetuosity that it destroys the banks, and in its furious course, uproots and bears along trees, fragments of rocks, &c., which vainly oppose its passage. In a few days the entire valley is overflowed, and it presents to view immense lakes and mo- rasses, separated by borders of trees. Thus does the kind providence of God, assist his poor creatures who inhabit these regions, by the liberality ,with which he ministers to their wants. w ■'■■*, V - I^Hl! 'H (. ■ ^■ l'" hh'\:' 1' -• yj 118 OREGON MISSIONS. It is sometimes made into loaves of various di- mensions. It is excellent, especially when boil- ed with meat ; if kept dry, it can be preserved a long time. As soon as their provisions are exhausted the Indians scour the plains, forests, and mountains, in quest of game. If they are unsuccessful in the chase, their hunger becomes so extreme, that they are reduced to subsist on moss, vvhich is more abundant than the camash. It is a parasite of the pine, a tree common in these latitudes, and hangs from its boughs in great quantities ; it appears more suitable for mat- tresses, than for the sustenance of human life. When they have procured a great quantity, they pick out all heterogeneous substance, and prepare it as they do the camash ; it becomes compact, and is, in m}^ opinion, a most miserable food, which, in a brief space, reduces those who live on it to a pitiable state of emaciation. Such are the Arcs-a-plats. They know neither industry, art, nor science ; the words mine and thine are scarcely known among them. They enjoy, in common, the means of existence spontaneously granted them by Nature ; and as they are strangely improvident, they often pass from the greatest abundance to extreme scarci- liU Ei < ^ li I'i r H^IH^ i' '■■■ ^^HHi ■ ■ ■( ■ ■ J . ( i^^lH ;-■ tlpp ^ LO O 3c is- 5 X OREGON MISSION 119 rll '-0 =5 EH <-, 3D r-1 ty. They feast well one day, and the follow- ing is passed in total abstinence. The two extremes are equally pernicious. Their cadav- erous figure sufficiently demonstrates what I here advance. 1 arrived among the Arcs-a- plats in time to witness the grand fi^h festival which is yearly celebrated ; the men only have the privilege of assisting thereat. Around a fire fifty feet long, partially overlaid with stones of the size of a turkey's eg^, eighty men range themselves ; each man is provided with an osier vessel, cemented with gum and filled with water and fish. The hall where this extraordi- nary feast is celebrated is constructed of rush mats, and has three apertures, one at either ex- tremity for the entrance of guests ; the middle one serves for transporting the fish. All prepa- rations being completed, and each man at his post, the chief, after a short harangue of en- couragement to his people, finishes by a prayer of supplication to the " Great Spirit," of whom he demands an abundant draught. He gives the signal to commence, and each one armed with two sticks flattened at the extremity, makes use of them instead of tongs, to draw the stones from the embers, and put them in his kettle. This process is twice renewed, and in ;«, ■•'n. At rather 3ass in r their rapids, le this s and vhen I me. I jngeful » lakes form an immense tomb, for they there die in such numbers as frequently to infect the whole surrounding atmosphere. In the absence of man, the grey and black bear, the wolf, the eagle, and vulture assemble in crowds, at this season of the year. They fish their prey on the banks of the river, and at the entrance of the lakes ; — claws, teeth and bills serving them instead of hooks and darts. From thence, when the snow begins to fall, the bears, plump and fat, resume the road back to their dens in the thick of the forests, and hollows of rocks, there to pass the four sad wintry months in complete indolence, with no other pastime or occupation, than that of sucking their four paws. If we may credit the Indians, each paw oc- cupies the bear for one moon, (a months) and the task accomplished, he turns on the other side, and begins to suck the second, and so on with the rest. I will here mention, en passant, all the hunters and Indians remark that it is a very uncommon incident for a female bear to be killed when with young, and, notwithstanding, they are killed in all seasons of the year. Where they go — what becomes of them during the period '■? ■ f i li-i --}^.- 1 m ' ■; ■' .; 132 OREGON MISSIONS. ft. I Is " they carry their young — is a problem yet to be solved by our mountain hunters. When emigration, accompanied by industry, the arts and sciences, shall have penetrated into the numberless valleys of the Rocky Mountains, the source of the Columbia vs^ill prove a very im- portant point. The climate is delightful ; the extremes of heat and cold are seldom knov^^n. The snow disappears as fast as it falls ; the laborious hand that would till these valleys, would be repaid a hundred fold. Innumerable herds could graze throughout the year in these meadows, where the sources and streams nur- ture a perpetual freshness and abundance. The hillocks and declivities of the mountains are generally studded with inexhaustible forests, in which the larch tr^^e, pine of different species, cedar and cypress abound. In the plain betwaen the two lakes, are beau- tiful bprings, whose waters have re-united and formed a massive rock of soft sandy stone, which has the appearance of an immense congealed or petrified cascade. Their waters are soft and pellucid ; and of the same temperature as the milk just drawn from the cow. The description given by Chandler of the famous fountain of Pambouk Kalesi, on the ancient Hieropolis of ; M \ 111 (i it f ll' » I ii OREGON MISSIO NS. 133 t to be idustry, ;ed into intains, ery im- iil ; the known. Is ; the valleys, nerable n these US nur- ;e. The ns are ■ests, in species, e beau- ted and ;, which ;aled or oft and as the cription itain of polls of Asia Minor, in the valley of Meander, and of which Malte Brun makes mention, might be literally applied to the warm springs at the source of the Columbia. The prospect unfolded to our view was so wonderful, that an attempt to give even a faint idea of it, would savor of romance, without going beyond the limits of fact. We contemplated with an admiring gaze, this vast slope, which, from a distance, had the ap- pearance of chalk, and when nearer, extends like an immense concreted cascade, its undulat- ing surface resembling a body of water sud- denly checked or indurated in its rapid course. The first lake of the Columbia is two miles and a half distant from the River des Arcs-a- plats, and receives a portion of its waters during the great spring freshet. They are separated by a bottom land. The advantages Nature seems to have bestowed on the source of the Columbia, will render its geographical position very im- portant at some future day. The magic hand of civilized man would transform it into a ter- restial paradise. The Canadian ! Into what part of the desert has he not penetrated ? The monarch who rules at the source of the Columbia is an honest emi« 7 • .. «! «;» ' m- k ■ ii- M 134 OREGON MISSIONS. grant from St. Martin, in the district of Mon- treal, who has resided for twenty-six years in this dqsert. The skins of the rein and moose deer are the njaterials of which his portable palace is composed ; and to use his own expres- sions, he EMBARKS on horseback with his wife and seven children, and lands wherever he pleases. Here, no one disputes his right, and Polk and Peel, who are now contending for the possession of his dominions, are as unknown to our carbineer, as the two greatest powers of the moon. His sceptre is a beaver trap — his law SL carbine — the one on his back, the other on his 'arm, he reviews his numerous furry subjects the beaver, otter, muskrat, marten, fox, bear, wolf, sheep, and white goat of the mountains, the black-tailed roe-buck, as well as its red- tailed relative, the stag, the rein and moose deer; some of which respect his sceptre — others submit to his law. He exacts and receives from them the tribute of flesh and skins. Encircled by so much grandeur, undisturbed proprietor of all the sky-ward palaces, the strong holds, the very last refuge which Nature has reared to preserve alive liberty in the earth — solitary lord of these majestic mountains, that elevate their icy sum- mits even to the clouds, — Morigeau (our Can- OREGON MISSIONS. 135 adian) does not forget his duty as a Christian. Each day, morning and evening, he may be seen devoutly reciting his prayers, midst his little family. Many years had Morigeau ardently desired to see a priest ; and when he learned that I was about to visit the source of the Columbia, he repaired thither in all haste to procure for his wife and children the signal grace of baptism. The feast of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin, this favor was conferred on them, and also on the children of three Indian families, who ac- company him in his migrations. This was a solemn day for the desert ! The august sacrifice of Mass was offered ; Morigeau devoutly ap- proached the Holy Table ; — at the foot of the humble altar he received the nuptial benedic- tion ; and the mother, surrounded by her chil- dren and six little Indians, was regenerated in the holy waters of baptism. In memory of so many benefits, a large cross was erected in the plain, which, from that time, is called the Plain of the Nativity. I cannot leave my good Canadian without making an honorable mention of his royal CUISINE A LA SAUVAGE. The first dish he presented me contained two paws of a bear. In Africa, m - ■*« ■■ .4 /i ■ ■fry '■■»,'. ,11 I 136 OREGON MIS SIONS. this ragout might have given some alarm ; in effect, it bears a striking resemblance to the feet of a certain race. A roast porcupine next made its appearance, accompanied by a moose's muzzle ; the latter I found delicious. Finally, the great kettle containing a sort of hotch-potch, or salmagundi, was placed in the midst of the guests, and each one helped himself according to his taste. Some remains of beef, buffalo, venison, bea- vers' tails, hare, partridges, &c., made an agree- able, substantial, famous soup. I am, monseigneur, your most humble and obedient i^ervant in Jesus Christ, P. J. DE SMET, S. J. :;^f_ I OREGON MISSIONS. 137 rm; m he feet t made noose's inally, ■potch, ; of the cording m, bea- agree- ile and S.J. No. IX. A. M. D. G. Foot of the Cross of Peace, September 15th, 1845. -Hero Poplars and birch trees ever quivering played, And nodding cedars formed a vagrant shade ; On whose high branches, waving with the storm. The birds of broadest wings their mansion form ; The jay, the magpie, the loquacious crow. And soar alofl and skim the deeps below. Here limpid fountains from the clefts distil, And every fountain forms a noisy rill. In mazy windings wandering down the hill." MoNSEiGNEUR, — We bade adieu to the Morigeau family on the 9th, and to their companions of the chase, the Siotishwaps, We quitted the upper valley of the Columbia by a small footpath, which soon conducted us to a narrow mountain defile, where the light of day vanished from view, amidst the huge, bold barriers of colossal rocks. The grand, the sublime, the beautiful, here form the most singular and fan- 138 OREGON MISSIONS. IP '^■- J .^ I . \ -' . . t r . ^ hi. •. I 1. tastic combinations. Though gray is the pre- vailing color, we find an immense rock of porphy- ry, or white-veined granite. Here and there, from the fissures of the rock, or wherever there is a handful of dust, the heavy and immortal pine enroots itself, adding its gloomy verdure to the variegated hues of the torpid rocks. These circuitous paths often present the most ravish- ing and picturesque vistas ; surrounded by colos- sal walls, the greatest diversity and most beau- tiful scenery in nature is spread out before the eye, where the plush and cedar rise majesti- cally in these venerable woods, the graceful poplar waves on high its emerald plumes, and fights its battles with the howling storm, whilst over the precipitous and jagged rocks, the scarcely- waving pine fills the brown shade with religious awe. The birch springs from an earth carpetted with moss, and shines like magnificent silver columns, supporting diadems of golden autumnal leaves, amidst the redolent purple- berried juniper and azure turpentines, of these humid dells and forests. After a day's journey through these primeval scenes, we reached the banks of the river Arcs- fi-plats, where innumerable torrents rush head- long, with a thousand mazes from the moun- m t OREGON MISSIONS. 139 le pre- orphy- there, ' there mortal lure to These •avish- T colos- beau- before lajesti- raccful BS, and whilst vs, the le with n earth lificent golden purple- f these imeval r Arcs- li head- moun- tain's brow, and in their union form this noble river. From afar is heard the deafening and continuous sound of its own dashes, as it tra- verses a rocky bed with extraordinary rapidity. We crossed the river in order to attempt the passage of another defile, still more wonderful, where the waters of the Vermillion have forced an opening. Here, everything strikes the eye ; all is wild sublimity, in this profound but tur- bulent solitude. Projecting mountains rise like holy towers where man might commune with the sky; — terrible precipices hang in fragments overhead — the astounding noise of the deep- tongued waves, in their unconfined flow, resem- bles that of the angry tempest, sweeping wild and free, like the spirit of liberty. Now the break- ing waves play low upon the rock-ribbed beach, and madly plunge into an abyss — anon it re- turns foaming to its sedgy bed, apparently sporting with the sedges for diversion — falling from slope to slope, from cascade to cascade, passing in its course a long train of rapids — now concealing itself under the tufted foliage of cedar and pine — again pouring its brilliant and crystalline waters into a capacious basin, as if to take breath before quitting the ravine, and B '<.' liMr ' . \ 140 OREGON MISSIONS. i-f :i::a i « Rl finally precipitating its wandering course with renovated vigor. From this almost impenetrable forest issues a harmonious sound. 'T is the whistling or lowing of the noble stag, calling its companion. The moose, the most vigilant of animals, gives the signal of alarm. He has heard the cracking branch — he has inhaled the hunter's deadly- breath ; a confused noise is heard from the mountain ; the sportsman raises his eager eye to its summit, and scans a flock of rein-deer perched upon the snow ; they are started at the approach of man ; in a instant they are lost among the inaccessible pinnacles, the " Palaces where Nature thrones Sublimity in icy halls." We often catch a glimpse of the graceful forms and nimble feats of the roe-bucks, as they caper and gallop, or tarry an instant to look around, with their lancet ears distended to catch every sound ; these wild, forest stragglers resume their course, and finally penetrate into the sombre forest. Flocks of wild goats gambol carelessly and tranquilly beside herds of moun- tain sheep above overhanging precipices and peaked rocks, chequered by patches of snow, far beyond the reach of human footsteps. OREGON MISSIONS. 141 A monstrous animal, the grey bear, which replaces on our mountains the African lion, is not content with growling and menacing the intrepid venturer, who dares infringe on his cavernous dominions, but grinds his teeth, ex- pressive of his rage. Suddenly, a well-aimed gun-shot forces him to make a lowly reference ; the formidable beast rolls in the dust, biting the sand saturated with his blood, and expires. The ordinary music of the desert is, the shrill cry of the panther, and the howling of the wolf. The diminutive mountain hare, six inches high, and whose biography has not yet found a place in natural history, amuses itseU' amidst the stony rubbish, and exhibits wonderful ac- tivity; whilst his neighbor, the lubberly por- cupine, clambers up, seats himself upon a branching cypress and gnaws the bark. He views the eager huntsman with a careless and indifferent air, unconscious that his tender flesh is regarded as a most delicious morsel. The in- dustrious beaver, like a wary sentinel, warns his family of man's approach by striking the water with his tail. The muskrat, or musquash, plunges immediately into the water. The otter quits his sports and slides upon his belly among the reeds — the timid squirrel leaps from bough to 7* ■ji' ■ I , . ,,.^ 4 J l.l 1 1 a; J 142 UREGON MI8S10NS. bough, until it reaches the topmost shade of the cypress ; the marten jumps from tree to tree, and buries itself in the foliage — the whistler and weasel repair to their respective domicils : — a precipitous flight alone saves the fox his rich silvery pelisse — the badger, or the ground-hog, too remote from his dwelling, digs the sandy soil, and buries himself alive, to avoid pursuit — his magnificent skin is destined to adorn the loins of an Indian — it requires the joint efforts of two men to force him from his hiding place, and to kill him. The evening previous to our egression from the blind mazes of this tangled wood, our eyes were recreated by a ravishing scene. When it presents itself after a disastrous combat, the spectacle consoles the afflicted heart of the sa- vage warrior. From the mountain's top we cdntemplated the "dance of the manitous or spirits, and the glorious entrance of departed champions into the country of souls." Vast columns of light varying in splendor, appeared to divert and balance themselves in the heavens: — some of perpendicular form ; others resem- bling undultatory waves ; now concealing, now exhibiting themselves under diversified aspects until the entire hemisphere seemed brilliantly OREGON MISSIONS. 143 )i illuminated. All these masses united at the zenith, and then separated under a variety of forms. Mysterious, solemn, cold and clear, Their steps majestic rise, Like barriers round this earthly sphere, Like gates of Paradise. Well may imaginatic it Before your sacred blaze, And bafHed science fail to paint The source of heaven-lit rays. The aurora borealis, is a phenomenon which I always contemplate with mingled admiration and pleasure. All that is seen, all that is heard in this unfathomable solitude, is both agreeable and instructive. It strikes, captivates, and ele- vates the mind towards the Author of nature. Mirahilia opera Domini ! After much fatigue, labor, and admiration, on the 15th we traversed the high lands separating the waters of Oregon from those of the south branch of the Sascatshawin, or the ancient Bourbon river, so called before the Canadian conquest by the British. It is the largest tribu- tary of the Winnepeg, which flows into Hudson's Bay by the River Nelson, 58 deg. north lati- tude. 144 OREGON MISSIONS. ^i^^ ! I &~ ^': t- ■ hi ' The Christian's standard, the crosSf has been reared at the source of these two rivers : may it be a sign of salvation and peace to all the scat- tered and itinerant tribes east and west of these gigantic and lurid mountains. On the cypress which serves for constructing the cross, the eagle, emblem of the Indian warrior, perches himself. The huntsman aims — the noble bird lies prostrate, and even in his fall, seems to retain his kingly pride. It so for- cibly recalls to memory the beautiful lines of the illustrious Campbell, that I quote them in full:— Fallen as he is, the king of birds still seems Like royalty in ruins. Though his eyes Are shut, that looked undazzled on the sun, He was the sultan of the sky, and earth Paid tribute to his eyrie. It was perched Higher than human conqueror ever built His bannered fort. * * * * * * He cloved the adverse storm And cufTed it with his wings. He stopped his flight As easily as the Arab reins his steed. And stood at pleasure 'neath heaven's zenith, like A lamp suspended from its azure dome ; Whilst underneath him the world's mountains lay Like mole-hills, and her streams like lucid threads. We breakfasted on the bank of a limpid lake at the base of the " Cross of Peace," from whence OREGON MISSIONS. 145 3een ay it jcat- bese ting dian lims his for- s of a in 1 have the honor of dating my letter, and of giving you the renewed assurance of my pro- found respect and veneration ; recommending to your fervent prayers, in a special manner, this vast desert, which contains so many precious souls still buried in the shades of death. Monseigneur, your very humble and devoted servant in Jesus Christ, P. J. DE SMET, S. J. lake mce i'^ t<, \\ » \' ! )• 146 OREGON MISSIONS. No. X. A. M. D. G. m -1 -. ,!* ■■ Camp of theAssiniboins, Sept. 26th, 1845. " Here bloomy meads with vivid greens are crown'd, And glowing violets throw sweet odors round." MoNSEiGNEUR, — By a steep declivity we entered a rich valley, agreeably diversified by enamelled meads, magnificent forests, and lakes — in wrhich the salmon-trout so abound, that in a few minutes we procured sufficient for an excellent repast. The valley is bounded on either side by a succession of picturesque rocks, whose lofl:y summits, rising in the form of pyramids, lose themselves in the clouds. The far-famed Egyp- tian monuments of Cheops and Cephren dwindle into nought, before this gigantic architectural cliflf of nature. The natural pyramids of the Rocky mountains seem to deride the artificial skill of man ; they serve as a resting place for the clouds that come hither to seek repose, and to encircle their giant brows. The Lord's omni« -i" OREGON MISSIONS. 147 : 45. ered aied hich few [lent eby ofty lose ?yp- tidle ural the cial for and fini- potent hand has laid the foundations — he has permitted the elements to form them, and in every age they proclaim His power and glory ! We emerged from this delightful valley, on the 18th of September, after a three days* ex- cursion, and recommenced our mountainous peregrination, which presented nothing but ob- stacles and contusions, both to men and horses. For the space of six hours we were compelled to trace our route across fragments of broken rocks, through an extensive and parched forest, and where millions of half-consumed trees lay extended in every direction. Not a trace of vegetation remained, and never had I contem- plated so dismal and destructive a conflagra- tion ! We reached the River des Arcs or Askow, in the evening, and pitched our solitary tent upon the shore. Here we discovered some vestiges of a savage party. Five days previous, nine lodges of Indians had encamped upon the very spot. We made a careful search, and my guides imagined they were the formidable Black-feet ! We, the same day, saw two smokes at the extremity of the plain over which these barbarians had travelled. My companions seemed to hesitate, as we drew near the vicinity 148 OREGON MISSIONS. Vi. 1-'' In ■' hi W' - ■ m f ''.i'' 1 r^-'-';' ■ 1 Wi I'i' ' 1 ^'S :• I • ■-■• p. ', if '^' |i ■ -'v El. .L h of these fearful Black-feet. They recounted to me their inauspicious dreams, and wished to deter me from proceeding. One said : **/ saw myself devoured by a wild bear ; " another, "/ saw ravens and vultures, (ill-omened birds,) hovering over the head of our father ; " a third saw a bloody spectacle. I gave them, in my turn, the history of one of my sentries, the ar- chetype of vigilance, courage and simplicity. " Midst the dark horrors of the sable night (No idle dream I tell nor fancy's strain) Thrice rose the red man's shade upon my sight, Thrice vanished into dusky air again. With courage high my panting bosom swells, Onward I rushed upon the threatening foe, When, hark ! Horrific rise the spectre's yells He points the steel and aims the fatal blow ; Guard, sentinel ! to arms ! to arms ! to arms ! Indians ! Indians ! my voice swelled loud and deep : The camp is roused at dread of my alarms, They wake and find — that I am sound asleep ! They were greatly amused at the recital of his imaginary fancies, and seemed to under- stand how little import I attached to such visions. ** Happen what may," said they, " we shall never quit our father until we seen him in a place of safety." This was precisely what I desired. I could not, however, deceive myself. ft to to iiw OREGON MISSIONS. 149 I had finally entered a land, the theatre of so many sanguinary scenes. I was now on the very confines of these barbarous people, from which, possibly, I should never return ! It not unfrequently happens, that, in their unbridled fury when they hear some relative has been killed, the Black-feet despatch the first stranger they meet, scalp him- -and then abandon to the wolves and dogs, the palpitating limbs of the unfortunate victim of their vengeance, hatred, and superstition. I declare ^.o j'^ou, I was beset by a thousand disquietudes concenang the fate that awaited me. Poor na^ ir', ! this tir id and fragile mens homo is soit" times terrified. He would wish to look back and listen to dreams. My longing desires repeated incessantly — Ad- vance ! I placed my whole confidence in God — the prayers of so many fervent souls encouraged and re-animate'd me ; I resolved not to be de- terred by an uncertain danger. The Lord can, when he pleases, ru' llify these pitiless and fero- cious hearts. The salvation of souls is at stake, and tl e preservation of the mission of St. Mary's depends on my proceeding ; for there, the incur jions of the Black-feet are very frequent. What consideration could deter me from a pro- i 150 OREGON MISSIONS. '* J1 m >> > t'S . , \tj >*51 V, 1;]' I ject which my heart had cherished, since my first visit among the mountains ? The 19th and 20th, we followed the tracks of our unknown predecessors, and they ap- peared more and more recent. I despatched my two guides to reconnoitre, and ascertain whom we were ao closely pursuing. — One of them returned the same evening, with the iicwa that he had found a small camp of Assiniboins of the forest ; that they had been well received ; that a disease reigned in the camp, orwhich two had lately died, and that they expressed great desire to see the Black-gown, The following morning we joined them, and journeyed several days in companj^ The Assiniboins of the forest do not amount to more than fifty lodges or families, divided into several bands. They are seldom seen in the plains ; the forest is their element, and they are renowned huntsmen and warriors. They travel over the mountains and through the woods, over the difierent forks and branches of the sources of the Sascatshawin and Athabaska. Agricul- ture is unknown to this tribe ; they subsist ex- clusively on small animals, such as big-horns, goats, bucks ; but especially on the porcupine, which swarms in his region. When pressed by OREGON MISSIONS. 151 hunger, they have recourse to roots, seeds, and the inner bark of the cypress tree. They own few horses, and perform all their journeys on foot. Their hunters set out early in the morning, kill all the game they meet, and suspend it to the trees, as they pass along, — their poor wives, or rather their slaves, often bearing two children on their backs, and drrgging several more after them, tardily follow their husbands, and collect what game the latter have killed. They had a long file of famished dogs, loaded with their little provisions, etc. Every family has a band of six to twelve of these animals, and each dog carries fronl 30 to 35 lbs. weight. They are the most wretched animals in existence ; from their tender-hearted masters and mistresses they re- ceive more bastinados than morsels, consequent- ly they are the most adroit and incorrigible rogues to be found in the forest. Every evening we find it necessary to hang all our property upon the trees, beyond the reach of these vora- cious dogs. We arc even compelled to barri- cade ourselves within our tents at night, and surround them with boughs of trees ; for, what- ever is of leather, or whatever has pertained to a living being, these cratly rogues bear away, and devour. You will say 1 have little charity ^%V- ;* «■■; 152 OREGON MISSIONS. \i > . 'i for these poor brutes — but be not astonished. One fine evening, having neglected the ordinary precaution of blocking up the entrance of my tent, I next morning found myself without shoes — with a collarless cassock — and minus one leg to my culottes de peau ! ! ! One of the chiefs of this little camp recounted to me, that last winter, one of his nation, having been reduced to extreme famine, (and such cases are not rare,) had eaten successively, his wife and four chil- dren. The monster then fled into the desert, and he has never been heard of since. The Oregon missionary. Rev. Mr. Bolduc, re- lated in his journal, that at Akena, one of the Gambia Isles, he saw an old dame, who, having had eight husbands, had eaten three of them, during a time of famine ! ! I add this last fact to give you a reverse to the abo\ • horrible picture. The Assiniboins have the reputation of being irascible, jealous, and fond of babbling; in con- sequence of these bad qualities, battles and murders ire not unfrequent among them, and of course continual divisions. Every evening I gave them instruction, by means of an inter- preter. They appeared docile, though somewhat timorous : for they had frequently been visited 4ib OREGON MISSIONS, 153 by p'^rsons who defamed both priests and re- ligion. I rendered all the little services in my power to their invalids, baptized six children and an old man who expired two days after, he was interred with all the funeral ceremonies and prayers of the church. Cleanliness is a virtue which has no place in the Indian catalogue of domestic or personal duties. The Assiniboins are filthy beyond con- ception ; they surpass all their neigbours in this unenvied qualification. They are de- voured by vermin, which they, in turn, consume. A .savage, whom I playfully reprehended for his cruelty to these little invertebral insects, answered me : " He bit me the first, I have a a right to be revenged." Through complacency, I overcame natural disgust, and assisted at their porcupine feast. I beheld the Indians carve the meat on their leat'^'^rn shirts, highly polish- ed with grease — filthy, and swarming with vermin, they had disrobed themselves, for the purpose of providing a table-cloth ! — They dried their hands in their hair — this is their only towel — and as the porcupine has naturally a strong and offensive odor, one can hardly endure the fragrance of those who ftasn upon its flesh and besmear themselves with ics oil. t i: r* '. 54 OREGON MISSIONS. I*. ' I'! •' (.I-- 7 - ?1 ^1 Oil i 11 A good old woman, whose face was anointed with blood, (the Indians' mourning weeds,) pre- sented me a wooden platter filled with soup ; the horn spoon destined for my use was dirty and covered with grease ; she had the complai- sance to apply it to the broad side of her tongue, before putting it into my unsavory broth. If a bit of dried meat, or any other provision is in need of being cleansed, the dainty cook fills her mouth with water and spirts it with her whole force upon the fated object. A certain dish, which is considered a prime delicacy among the Indians, is prepared in a most singular manner, and they are entitled to a patent for the happy faculty of invention. The whole process belongs exclusively to the female department. They commence by rubbing their hands with grease, and collecting in them the blood of the animal, which they boil with water; finally, they fill the kettle with fat and hashed meat. But — HASHED WITH THE TEETH ! Often half a dozen old woi.icn are occupied in this mincing operation during hours ; mouthful after mouthful is masti- cated, and thus passes from the mouth into the cauldron, to compose the choice ragout of the Rocky mountains. Add to this, by way of an exquisite desert, an immense dish of crusts, OREGON MISSIONS. 155 composed of pulverized ants, grass-hoppers and locusts, that had been dried in the sun, and you may then be able to form some idea of Indian luxury. The American porcupine, the Hystrix dorsata^ is called by modern Zoologists, the Prickly Bea- ver, In fact there is great similarity between the two species in size and form, and both in- habit the same region. The porcupine, like the beaver, has a double peltry or fur ; the first is long and soft ; the second, is still softer, and greatly resembles down or felt. They both have two long sharp, strong tusks, at the ex- tremity of the jaw-bone. The Flat-heads affirm that the porcupine and beaver are brothers, and relate that anciently they abode together ; but that, having frequently been dis- covered by their enemies, through the indolence, idleness and extreme aversion of the porcupines for the water, the beavers met in council and unanimously agreed upon a separation. The latter availed themselves of a fine day and in- vited their spiny brethren ;.o accompany them in a long rjumble, among the cypress and juniper of the forest. The indolent and heedless porcu- pines, having copiously regaled themselves with the savory buds of the one, and the tender rind at '% 156 OREGON MISSIONS. hi it' I i\ |t ^ ■ hi ' (Ij-., w ■ I; l^ ; If .^1 .V.'-. »','^ of the Other, extended their weary limbs upon the verdant moss, and were soon lost in profound sleep. This was the anticipated moment for the wily beavers to bid a final adieu to their porcupine relatives. The Assiniboins inhabiting the plains are far more numerous than their mountain brethren. They number about six hundred lodges ; they own a greater number of horses, and the men, in general, are more robust, and of a command- ing stature. They are more expert in thieving, are greater topers, and are perpetually at war. They hunt the buffalo in the great plains bet- tween the Sascatshawin, the Red river, Missouri, and Yellow Stone. The Crows, Black-feet, Arikaras and Sioux are their most inveterate enemies. — They speak nearly the same language as the Sioux, and have the same origin. I have the honor to be, with the most pro- found respect and veneration, monseigneur, your very humble and very obedient servant in Christ Jesus, P. J, DE SMET, S. J. I i OREGON MISSIONS, 157 i No. XI. A. M. D. G. Fort of the Mountains, October 5, 1845. MoNSEiGNEUR, — The last few days we journeyed with the little Assiniboin camp, the aspect of the country offered nothing ver} interesting. We passed from valley to valley between two high chains of adamantine mountains, whose slopes are, here and there, ornamented with mounds of perpetual snow. A beautiful crys- talline fountain issues from the centre of a per- pendicular rock about five hundred feet high, and then pours its waters over the plain in foam and mist. The 29th we separated from the Assiniboins ; the path conducted us through a thick forest of cypress ; I am told this is the last — Deo Gratias ! These belts of tall firs are very numerous, and form great obstacles and barriers to land com- munications between the east and west of the mountains. I have a little word of advice to 8 31 .',■,,.• '&0 H I- t ^ r 158 OREGON MISSIONS. give all who wish to visit these latitudes. At the entrance of each thick forest, one should render himself as slender, as short, and as con- tracted as possible, imitating the different evo- lutions in all encounters of an intoxicated cava- lier, but with skill and presence of mind. I mean to say, he should know how to balance himself — cling to the saddle in every form, to avoid the numerous branches that intercept his passage, ever ready to tear him into pieces, and flay his face and hands. Notwithstanding these precautions, it is rare to escape without paying tribute in some manner to the ungra- cious forest. I one day found myself in a singular and critical position: in attempting to pass under a tree that inclined across the path, I perceived a small branch in form of a hook, which threatened me. The first impulse was to extend myself upon the neck of my horse. Unavailing precaution ! It caught me by the collar of my surtout, the horse still continuing his pace. — Behold me suspended in the air — struggling like a fish at the end of a hook. Several respectable pieces of my coat floated, in all probability, a long time in the forest, as an undeniable proof of my having paid toll in passing through it, A crushed and torn hat — ! i .1 >• It I OREGON MISSIO NS. 159 \ ft an eye black and blue — two deep scratches on the cheek, would, in a civilized country, have given me the appearance rather of a bully is- suing from thp Blnrh Vorrst^ than a mission- ary. To render a bad forest superlatively so, a great fall of snow is necessary. This special favor was lavished upon us in this last pas- sage. Wo to the first pedestrians ! The branches groan under the burden of their wintry shroud, and seem to present the motto : "i 1 S ti I U N 8 . 171 roke they to sct- s of rted )edi- th a the fold, case of success, the heroine was destined to become the bride of the most valiant. According to the Oracle, none but the great chief himself had the privilege of shoeing or unshoeing her. This concluded, they began their march, in- toxicated with confidence and presumption, fol- lowing this extraordinary guide over hills and valleys, ravines, marshes, and swamps. One day she would direct her steps towards the north, the next to the south or west — the point of the compass mattered naught — the Manitou of war was supposed to guide her, and day after day the infatuated Crees continued to follow the steps of the blindfolded Indian. They had al- ready penetrated far into the plain, when they were discovered by a party of seven Black-Feet. The latter might easily have escaped under favor of the night, but the Partisan, or Black- Foot Chieftain, a man of undaunted courage, de- termined to oppose this formidable force. With the aid of their poniards they made themselves a hollow, in which they took shelter. The following morning, at day-break, the eight hundred champions surrounded their feeble prey. The first who pressed forward to dislodge them were driven back several times, with the loss of seven men and tiileen wounded. The failure of (*■■ 172 OREGON MISSIONS. IS I ' i-: 'H; \ !! in ammunition at length put the Black-Feet at the mercy of the Crees, by whom they were cut into pieces. The first engagement threw the victorious party into consternation, for they too, numbered seven killed and fifteen wounded. They removed the bandage from the young heroine's eyes, and the Manitous whom they had thought so propitious, being now judged un- favorable to their warlike projects, the warriors hastily dispersed, taking the nearest road back to their respective homes. The Crees have a rather singular custom among them, and one contrary to the practice of other nations. They stain the faces of the warriors who fall in combat, clothe them in their richest ornaments, and thus expose them in places conspicuous to their enemies. They place near them their guns, bows and arrows, to show that in their death there was no cause for compassion ; and this they do purposely that they may be cut into pieces — an opportunity which an enemy never sutTers to escape, and which a Cree warrior regards as the height of his wishes. Other nations, on the contrary, carry off and conceal their dead, to save them from the rapacity and insults of their enemies, and to be out into pieces, even after death, is O R E (.; C) i\ M I rt S I (J iN s . \l',i t the 5 cut r the too, ided. oung f had I un- rriors back istom a-ctice )f the im in them They rows, cause y that unity and :ht of trary, them jmies, ith, is considered a great dishonor among- tht^in. — The Crees and Sauteux are allies, and considerably intermixed by reciprocal marriages. The latter form the most numerous and widelv-difTused nation of these parts. — They are to be met with from the confines of Lower Canada even to the foot of the Rocky Mountains. This is also the nation of medicine, par excels lence : — for all pretend to be jugglers, and sell their medicines and quackery at a high price. In consequence of this attachment to their old, superstitious practices, and the great profits they derive from them, the seeds of the Divine Word has hitherto fallen upon an unprofitable soil. An adroit impostor who has been baptized, and who is, moreover, a great medicine man among them, has contributed not a little to keep his nation in an obstinate ignorance, which makes them prefer the shades of paganism to the beneficial light of the gospel. Falling one day into a species of lethargy, it was thought that he had expired — but recovering after a shoi'": time, he assembled his band, atid told them the following story : "Immediately after my death I repaired lo the heaven of the white men, or Christians, where the Great Spirit and Jesus Christ dwell, ;.■ «' IH-. 174 OREGON MISSIONS. 1 I 111 I t i but they refused to admit me on account of my red skin. I then went to the country where the souls of my ancestors are, u,nd there, too, I was refused admittance on account of my baptism. I am, therefore, come back to this earth, to re- nounce the promises I made in baptism and resume my medicine bag, hoping to expiate my former error by my sincere attachment to jugglery, and thus render myself once more worthy of the beautiful and spacious plains of that happy and delightful abode, where reigns everlasting spring, and numberless flocks and herds afford an abundant and everlasting sub- sistence to all the inhabitants of the Indian Elysium." This extravagant report which has been cir- culated throughout the whole tribe and among the neighboring people, has greatly contributed to attach them to their old customs and super- stitions, — and make them turn a deaf ear to the instructions of their worthy missionary. The Rev. Mr. Belcour^ has, notwithstanding, succeeded in converting a considerable number, whom he has persuaded to renounce the illu- sions of their brethren, and united in a village at St. Paul des Sauteux, where they persevere fervently in all the practices of religion. The iiit!!!: (JREGON MISSIONS, 175 >t'my •e the [ was sm. I to re- L and cpiate 3nt to more ins of reigns :s and 5 sub- [ndian m cir- imong bated super- to the nding, Lmber, e iliu- illage levere The number of faithful, in this spot, increases every year. At length, on the 25th October, thirteen Black- Feet arrived at the Fort. They saluted me with a politeness truly a la sauvage^ rough and cor- dial, at the same time. The old chief embraced mo quite tenderly when he learned the object ofmyjournr He was distinguished from his companions uy his dress — being decorated from head to foot with eagles' plumes, and wearing a large breast-plate in form of medallion,^^Mre(/ with hlucy as a mark of distinction. He was profuse in attention to me, making me sit beside him whenever I went to visit them in their apartment — shaking me affectionately by the hand and amicably rubbing my cheeks with his scarlet-painted nose. He cordially invited me to his country, offering to be my guide and to introduce me to his people. The difference of physiognomy existing between the Indians in- hcbiting the plains east of the mountains and those near the upper waters of the Columbia, is as great as the stupendous rocks that sepa- rate them. The latter are remarkable for their mildness, serenity and affability, while cruelty, craft — the word blood, in fine, may be read in every feature of the Black-Foot Indian. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // {./ ^ A , Sg '^^ ^^% / 1.0 I.I | »o ^^ >■■ ■^ Uii 122 2.0 lU ■ 40 IL25 i 1.4 I 1.6 «^ -^ ^^ '^ '/ Hiotogrd{M: _Sciences Corporation 33 WIST MAIN STMIT WIMTIR.N.Y USM (7U) •73-4303 4\ JiAmmaimmmUmmiMMmtB^tKmtm l^^ i A: %■ 170 UKEiiON MISfcilONH. r#..' Scarcely could an innocent hand be found in the whole nation. The Lord, however, is all powerful — " from stones he can raise up chil- dren unto Abraham," and, full of confidence in the treasures of His holy grace and mercies, I purpose to visit them. The essential point and my greatest perplexity is, to find a good and faithful interpreter ; the only one now at the Fort is a suspicious and dangerous man: all his employers speak ill of him — he makes fine promises. In the alternative of either renounc- ing my project or being of some utility to those poor, unfortunate Indians, I accept his services. May he be faithful to his engagement ! I have the honor to be, monseigneur, your very humble and very obedient servant in Jesus Chriat, P. J. DE SMET, S. J. V i *• 4 OREGON MISSIONS. 177 No. Xlll. A. M. D. G. J. Fort of the Mountains, October 30th, 1845. The year 1845 will be a memorable epoch in the sad annals of the Black-Feet nation. It has been a year of disasters. In two skirmishes with the Black-Feet and Kalispcls, they lost twenty- one warriors. The Crees have carried off a great number of their horses, and twenty-seven scalps. The Crows have struck them a mortal blow — fifty families, the entire band of the petite RobCf were lately massacred, and one hundred and sixty women and children have been led into captivity. What a dreadful state for these unfortunate beings. In the first excitement, numbers of the captives were sacrificed by the Crow squaws to the manes of their husbands, brothers, fathers, or children. The survivors were condemned to slavery. The smallpox shortly after made its appearance in the conquerors' camp, and spread w t [1 their . while iconso- li dead of de- esola- , bar- every future Indian isiting Those to be whose •oduce I encamped on the banks of two lakes to the east of the Rocky Mountains, which the Black- Feet call the lake of men and the lake of women. According to their traditions, from the first of these issued a band of young men, handsome and vigorous, but poor and naked. From the second an equal number of ingenious and in- dustrious young women, who constructed and made themselves clothing. They lived a long time separate and unknown to each other, until the great Manitou Wizakeschak, or the old man, (still invoked by the Black-Feet), visited them ; he taught them to slay animals in the chase, but they were yet ignorant of the art of dress- ing skins. Wizakeschak conducted them to the dwelling o^ the young women, who received their guests with dances and cries of joy. Shoes, leggins, shirts, and robes, garnished with por- cupine quills, were presented them. Each young woman selected her guest, and presented him with a dish of seeds and roots ; the men, desiring to contribute to the entertainment, sought the chase, and returned loaded with game. The women liked the meat, and admired the strength, skill, and bravery of the hunters. The men were equally delighted with the beauty of their trappings, and admired the industry of the wo- \ ^1 mi^' . n ri ,; 180 O R K (; O N MISSIONS. men. Both parties began to think they were necessary to each other, and Wizakeschak pre- sided at the solemn compact in which it was agreed that the men should become the protec- tors of the women, and provide all necessaries for their support : whilst all other family cares would devolve upon the women. The Black-Feet .squaws often bitterly com- plain of the astonishing folly of their mothers in accepting such a proposition ; declaring, if the compact were yet to be made, they would arrange it in a very different manner. The Black-Foot heaven is a country com- posed of sandy hillsy which they call Espatchekie, whither the soul goes after death, and where they will find again all the animals thry have killed, and all the horses they have stolen. The buffalo, hind, and stag, abound there. In speak- ing of the departed, a Black-Foot never says, such a one is dead, but Espatchekie etape — to the Sand hills he is gone ! Fort Augusto, on the Sascatshawin, December 31st, 1846. MoNSEiGNEUR, — I arranged with the thirteen Black-Feet of whom I spoke in my last, that I OREGON MISSIONS. 181 were I pre- it was trotec- isaries cares Y com- lothers •ing, if would r com- tchekie, where y have I. The speak- r says, ipe — to .1* \ 1846. Ihirteen St, that ihey should precede me among their people, to pave the way, as it were, and prepare their minds to receive me. — Everything seemed pro- pitious, and accordingly, on the 31st of October, I took leave of the friendly Mr. Harriot. I was accompanied by my interpreter, and a young Metif of the Cree nation, who had charge of the horses. Notwithstanding his good resolu- tions, my interpreter did not long leave me in doubt of his true character. The wolf cannot remain concealed beneath the sheep's clothing. He became sullen and peevish, always choos- ing to halt in those places where the poor beasts of burden could find nothing to eat, after their long da/s journey. The farther we penetrated into the desert, the more and more sulky he became. It was impossible to draw from him a single pleasant word, and his incoherent mut- terings and allusions became subjects of serious apprehension. Thus passed ten sorrowful days ; my last two nights had been nights of anxiety and watching ; when fortunately, I encountered a Canadian, on whom I prevailed to remain with me some time. The following day my interpreter disappeared. Although my situa- tion was extremely precarious in this danger- ous desert without interpreter, without guide, 182 OREGON MISSIONS. i!i .H i - .11 > tC'u . ' Ft . . * t |v' !>^ yet I could not but feel relieved of a heavy bur- den by the departure of this sullen and gloomy fellow. Had it not been for my opportune meet- ing with the Canadian, it is probable I should not have escaped his deep laid scheme against me. Friends and travellers in the desert, beware of choosing for your guide, or placing your de- pendence on a morose Metif, especially if he has been for some time a resident among the savages ; for such men usually possess all the faults of the white man joined to the cunning of the Indian. I determined to continue my route in search of a Canadian interpreter, whom we understood was some distance in advance of us on the same road. For eight successive days we wandered on in that labyrinth of val- leys, but in vain ; although in the heart of their territory, neither the Canadian nor the Black- Feet were to be found. Large marauding par- ties of the Crees were beating the country at that time, and it appeared evident from the tracks, that they had carried everything before them. It snowed without intermission during four days ;— our poor horses were nearly exhaust- ed — my wallet contained nothing but crumbs —the passage from the east to the western OREGON MISSIONS. 183 side of the mountains was become impractica- ble, and I had no alternative, but to repair to one of the forts of the Hudson Bay Company, and beg hospitality during the inclement season. The entire region in the vicinity of the first eastern chain of the Rocky Mountains, serving as their base for thirty or sixty miles, is ex- tremely fertile, abounding in forests, plains, prairies, lakes, streams, and mineral springs. The rivers and streams are innumerable, and on every side offer situations favorable for the construction of mills. The northern and south- ern branches of the Sascatshawin water the district I have traversed, for a distance of about three hundred miles. Forests of pine, cypress, thorn, poplar and aspen trees, as well as others of different kinds, occupy a large portion of it, covering the declivities of the moantains, and banks of the rivers. These, ordinarily, take their rise in the highest chains, whence they issue in every di- rection like so many veins. The beds and sides of these rivers are pebbly, and their courses rapid, but as they recede from the mountains they widen, and the currents lose something of their impetuosity. Their waters are usually very clear. In this climate wens are not unfrequent. MMMMWi f 1 if f ! '■ ' #■; • r. * '*•• 184 OREGON MISSIONS. The country would be capable of supporting a large population, and the soil is favorable for the produce of barley, corn, potatoes, and beans, which grow here as well as in the more south- ern countries. Are these vast and innumerable fields of hay forever destined to be consumed by fire, or perish in the autumnal snows? How long shall these superb forests be the haunts of wild beasts ? And these inexhaustible quarries, these abundant mines of coal, lead, sulphur, iron, cop- per, and saltpetre — can it be that they are doomed to remain for ever inactive ? Not so — the day will come when some laboring hand will give them value : a strong, active, and enterprising people are destined to fill this spa- cious void. — The wild beasts will, ere long, give place to our domestic animals ; flocks and herds will graze in the beautiful meadows that border the numberless mountains, hills, valleys, and plains of this extensive region. A large portion of the surface of the country is covered with artificial lakes, formed by the beavers. On our way, we had frequently occasion to remark, with wonder and admiration, the extent and height of their ingeniously constructed dams and solid lodges. These are remains of the ad- I CAEOON MISSIONS. 185 J for ;ans, )Uth- 'hay 3, or shall wild these , cop- ' are ; so — hand and spa- , give herds )order and ortion with Pn our mark, t and dams le ad- \ mirable little republics, concerning which so many wonders have justly been recorded. Not more than half a century ago, such was the number of beavers in this region, that a good hunter could kill a hundred in a month's space. I reached Fort Augustus or Edmondton to- wards the close of the year. Its respectable Commandant, the worthy Mr. Rowan, received me with all the tenderness of a father, and together with his inestimable family, showed me every kindness and attention. Never shall I have it in my power to cancel the debt of gratitude I owe them. — May heaven protect and repay them with its choice blessings ; such is the most sincere prayer of a poor priest, who will ever remember them. * I must await a more favorable moment for visiting the Black-Feet. The skirmishing par- ties appear to be still scouring the country. The tidings which reach us concerning them tell only of pli:nder and bloodshed. Meanwhile, I have the honor of being, with profound respect and esteem, Monseigneur, your very humble and obedient servant in Jesus Christ, P. J. SMET. S. J. 186 OREGON MISSION H. No. XIV. A. M. D. G. ;.», i. '♦•■ Fort Jasper, April 16th, 1846. MoNSEiGNEUR, — Fort Edmondton or Auguste is the great emporium of the Hudson Bay Com- pany in the districts of Upper Sascatshawin and Athabasca : Forts Jasper, Assiniboine, Little Slave l^Jiko. on the river Athabasca, Forts des Montagues, Pitt, Carrollton, Cumberland, on the Sascatshawin, depend on it. The respectable and worthy Mr. Rowan, Governor of this im- mense district, unites, to all the amiable and polite qualities of a perfect gentleman, those of a sincere and hospitable friend ; his goodness and paternal tenderness render him a true pa- triarch amidst his charming and numerous fami- ly. He is esteemed and venerated by all the surrounding tribes, and though advanced in age, he possesses extraordinary activity. The number of servants at Edmondton, in- cluding children, is about eighty. They form a \ OREGON MISSIONS. 187 16. guste Com- n and Little ts des on the ctable is inl- and ose of jdness le pa- fami- ,11 the n age, )n, in- brm a well-regulated family. Besides a large garden, a field of potatoes and wheat, belonging to the establishment, the lakes, forests, and plains of the neighborhood furnish provisions in abund- ance. On my arrival at the Fort, the ice-house contained thirty thousand white fish, each weighing four pounds, and five hundred bufla- loes, the ordinary amount of the winter pro- visions. Such is the quantity of aquatic birds in the season, that sportmen often send to the Fort carts full of fowls. Eggs are picked up by thousands in the straw and reeds of the marshes. The greater number of those employed being Catholics, I found suflicient occupation. Every morning I catechized the children, and gave an instruction ; in the evening, after the labors of the day, I recited the prayers for the honorable Commander and his servants. I must acknow- ledge, to the credit of the inhabitants of Edmond- ton, that their assiduity knd attention to reli- gious duties, and the kindness and respectful re- gard evinced fjr me, were a source of great consolation during my sojourn of two months among them. May God, who has granted them so liberally and plentifully the dews of the earth, enrich them likewise with those of Heaven ; n ;■ 1; h,- ^:f. ■ •r4!- , .ft- if '*■ 4 .*■■ i V' ' ' k 1 ■ -■ '>2t« 188 OREGON MISSIONS. such is the most sincere wish and prayer of a friend who will never forget them. I visited Lake St. Anne, the ordinary resid- ence of Messrs. Thibault and Bourassa ; the latter gentleman was absent. The distance from the fort to the lake is about fifty miles. I mentioned this interesting mission in my pre- ceding letters, and I will row say a word rela- tive to the country. — The surface of this region is flat for the most part, undulating in some places — diversified with forests and meadows, and lakes teeming with fish. In Lake St. Anne alone were caught, last autumn, more than seventy thousand white fish, the most delicious of the kind ; they are taken with the line at every season of the year. Notwithstanding the rigor and duration of the winter in this northern region, the earth in general appears fertile ; vegetation is so for- ward in the spring and summer, that potatoes, wheat and barley, together with other vegeta- bles of Canada, come to maturity. Lake Saint Anne forms one of a chain of lakes ; I counted eleven of them, which flow into the Sascatsha- win by the small river Esturgeons, or Sturgeon, Innumerable republics of beavers formerly ex- isted there ; each lake, each march, each river. OREGON MISSIONS. 189 of a :esid- ; the tance niles. rpre- rela- egion some dows, Anne than icious ne at on of rth in for- atoes, geta- Saint unted tsha- 'geon. ex- river, bears, even to this day, proofs of their labors. What I here say of beavers is applicable to almost all the Hudson territory. When the reindeer, buffalo, and moose abounded, the Crees were then peaceful possessors ; — animals have disappeared, and with them the ancient lords of the country. Scarcely do we meet with a solitary hut — but now and then the tracks of some large animal. Seventeen families of Metifs, descendants of English Canadians and savages, have assembled and settled around their missionaries. The Crees have gained the buffalo plains, and they contend for them with the Black-Feet, whose mortal foes they have become. In proportion as the rigors of winter began to give place to the cheering dawn of spring, simul- taneously did my pulse beat to approach near the mountain, there to await a favorable oppor- tunity to cross it, so that I might arrive as early as possible at the mission of St. Ignatius. The 12th of March, I bade farewell to the respectable Rowan family, and to all the ser- vants of the Fort. I was accompanied by three brave Metifs, whom Mr. Thibault was so kind as to procure me. At this season, the whole country lies buried in snow, and voyages are 9* 100 OREGON MISSIONS. 4 » ■ ip % If,;;' i \ I,' If . It ' I ' ' if i ( made in sledges drawn by dogs. Our provi- sions and baggage were conveyed in two of these sledges ; the third, drawn by four dogs, was reserved for me. I found this mode of travelling quite a novelty ; and on the glittering ice of the rivers and lakes, it was particularly convenient and agreeable. The third day we encamped near Lake de TAigle Noir, which abounds in white fish ; on the sixth, we arrived at Fort Assiniboine, built in a meadow on the river Athabasca, where it is two hundred and thirty-three fathoms broad, which breadth it seems to preserve more or less until it leaves the Rocky Mountains, its current is extremely rapid. In the spring it can be descended in three days from Fort Jasper to Fort Assiniboine a distance of more than three hundred miles. With our sledges we were nine days accom- plishing the journey. The bed of the river is studded with islands, which, by their various positions and features, render the prospect very agreeable. Its shores are covered with thick forests of pine intersecting rocks and high hills which embellish and give a touch of the pictur- esque to the general monotony of the desert. The principal branches are the Pembina, which measures four hundred and sixty-four OREGON MISSIONS. 191 provi- wo of dogs, >de of tering ularly ly we which rrived )n the d and dth it leaves emely tied in iboine miles. 1,0 com- ver is arious t very thick hills )ictur- ert. ibina, y-four I k feet across — the river des Avirons, one hundred and twenty-eight feet ; the river Des Gens Li- bres, the branch McCloud, and river Baptist Ber- land, are about eighty fathoms wide at their mouth. The rivers Du Vieux, du Milieu, des Prairies, and des Roches, form beautiful cur- rents. Lake Jasper, eight miles in length, is situated at the base of the first great mountain chain. The fort of the same name, and the se- cond lake, are twenty miles higher, and in the heart of the mountains. The rivers Violin and Medicine on the southern side, and the Assini- boine on the northern, must be crossed to arrive there, and to reach the height of land at the du Committees Punch BowU we cross the rivers Maline, Gens de Colets, Miette and Trou, which we ascended to its source. The river Medicine mmgles its waters with those of the Sascatshawin ; the Assiniboine and Gents de Colets with those of the Boucane, a tributary of a la Paix. The waters of the Miette, have their source at the same height, with some branches of the river Frazer, which crosses New Cale- donia. Some years since, the valleys and high forests of Athabasca were exclusively appropriated to the chase by the Assiniboincs of the forests ; 192 OREGON M ISSIO NS. ti^i the scarcity of game forced them to quit their land — since their departure the animals have increased in an astonishing manner. In various places on the river, we saw ravages of the beavers which I should have taken for recent encamp- ments of savages, so great a quantity of felled trees was there. Many wandering families of the carrier tribe and Achiganes or Sock Indians of New Caledonia, compelled by hunger, have quitted their country, traversed the east of the mountains, and now cross the valleys of this region in quest of food. They nourish them- selves with roots, and whatever they can catch, many of them have their teeth worn to the gums by the earth and sand they swallow with their nourishment. In winter they fare well : for then the moose, elk and reindeer are plenti- ful. The reindeer feed on a kind of white moss, and the paunch is considered delicious when the food is half digested. By way of a dainty morsel, the Indians pluck out the eyes of fish with the end of the fingers and swallow them raw, likewise the tripes with their whole con- tents, without further ceremony than placing them an instant on the coals, from thence into the omnibus or general reservoir, without even undergoing the operation of the jaws. s r 1i 11 I :heir have rious ivers amp- felled ies of dians have ►f the f this :hem- catch, o the with well : )lenti- moss, when lainty )f fish them |e con- acing into even i s a tf3 a: X IM ■4'*'*^ Hi ■ • V'i 1 » * '. > ' , >■ \ ■ * • 1 iil m OREGON MIS 8I0NS. 193 The Montagnees Indians inhabit the lower part of Athabasca, also the great lake of this name. The elk is very common, and the rein- deer are found in large bands ; the chase of the latter is both easy and singular. They regularly bend their course northward in autumn, and re- turn towards the south in the spring. The In- dians know their usual crossing-places over the lakes and rivers — and when the herd (often many hundreds in number) are in the water, and approach the opposite shore, the huntsmen leave their concealment, jump into their light canoes, and yell with all their strength to make them return to the centre ; there they harass them, continually driving them from the shore, until the poor animals become exhausted ; then begins the work of carnage ; they are killed without difficulty by daggers and darts, and it rarely happens that one effects his escape. They cover their huts and dress themselves with the skins of the reindeer. Lakes and marshes being so numerous in this country, swans, geese, bus- tards, and ducks of various species, come hither in thousands during the spring and autumn. The savages travel over these marshy places in Rackets in quest of eggs, on which they mostly subsist during this season. Often squares of w 104 OREGON MISSIONS. § several acres are found covered with nests. White fish, carp, trout, and unknown fish, abound in all these lakes and rivers. Two missionaries, a Father of the order of Ob- lats of Marseilles and a Canadian priest, are on the way, with the intention of penetrating into the interior of the country. The reception gi- ven to Mr. Thibault last summer by the Mon- tagnees, leaves little doubt of the happy results of this praiseworthy and holy enterprise. On the banks of the Jasper, we met an old Iroquois called Louis Kwaragkwante, or the travelling sun, accompanied by his family, thirty-six in number. He has been forty years absent from his country, during which he has never seen a priest — ^has dwelt in the forest of Athabasca on Peace river and subsisted by hunting and fish- ing. The good old man was overwhelmed with joy, and the children experienced a similar feel- ing with their father. I will give you the old man's words in English, on learning that I was a priest : " How glad I am to have come here, for I have not seen a priest for many years. To- day I behold a priest, as I did in my own coun- try — my heart rejoices — wherever you go I shall follow you with my children — all will hear the word of prayer— all will have the happiness OREGON MISSIONS. 195 4 to receive baptism. — Therefore my heart rejoi- ces and is happy." The little Iroquois camp immediately set out to follow me to Fort Jasper. Most of them know their prayers in Iroquois. I remained fifteen days at the Fort, instructing them in the duties of religion — after Mass, on Sunday, all were regenerated in the waters of baptism, and seven marriages renewed and blessed. The number of baptized amounted to forty-four ; among whom was the lady of Mr. Frazer, (Superintendent of the Fort), and four of his children and two servants. I have the honor to be, with the most profound respect and high regard, Monseigneur, your very humble and obedient servant in Jesus Christ, P. J. DE SMET, S. J. 'i 196 OREGON MtSSIONB. If V' II I '•4 If; m » * i ! liif No, XV. A. M. D. G. I !. Foot of the Great Glacierei at the Mouth of the Athabasca, May 6th, 1845. MoNSEiGNEUR — Provisions becoming scarce at the Fort, at the moment when we had with us a considerable number of Iroquois from the surrounding country, who were resolved to re- main until my departure, in order to assist at the instructions, we should have found our- selves in an embarrassing situation had not Mr. Frazer come to our relief, by proposing that we should leave the Fort and accompany himself and family to the Lake of Islands, where we could subsist partly on fish. As the distance was not great, we accepted this invitation, and set out to the number of fifty-four persons, and twenty dogs. I count the latter, because we were as much obliged to provide for them, as for ourselves. A little note of the game killed by our hunters during the twenty-six days of ii! OREGON MISSIONS. 197 >a8cai 145. ce at ith us n the to re- sist at [ our- ot Mr. at we imself re we tance 1, and 3, and se we m, as killed 3tys of our abode at this place, will perhaps afford you some interest ; at least, it will make you ac- quainted with the animals of the country, and prove that the mountaineers of Athabasca are blessed with good appetites. Animals killed — twelve moose deer, two reindeer, thirty large mountain sheep or big horn, two porcupines, two hundred and ten hares, one beaver, two muskrats, twenty-four bustards, one hundred and fifteen ducks, twenty-one pheasants, one snipe, one eagle, one owl ; add to this from thirty to fifty fine white fish every day and twenty trout, and then judge whether or not our people had reason to complain ; yet we heard them constantly saying ; " How hard liv- ing is here ? The country is miserably poor — we are obliged to fast." As the time approached at which I was to leave my new children in Christ, they earnestly begged leave to honor me, before my departure, with a little ceremony to prove their attach- ment, and that their children might always remember him who had first put them in the way of life. Each one discharged his musket in the direction of the highest mountain, a large rock jutting out in the form of a sugar loaf, and with three loud hurrahs gave it my name. ■^■'■' 1: .' I^•: :■'■ t f If . 1 ■ 1 i "• ;• ; , , ■ y f\ 1 ' f f ■ 1 T^ 1 i: : ' h i-1 t : ) ' |i1^v. 1 '^' I'i L ". f ; (!»'••■;. 1 ■^■';- ' K^^ tw^'^' ff } * /* * I U i-^ ■ *. ti-' <■ 15.' 'f i;\ ■ ji: ^j^ •- "" 1 ' '!';^ ■' 5 |**i^* f ■>'•* t 1 !^ ' ;'■ . 1 Iv''- ^■ l-:'^ 1 108 OREGON MISSIONS. !. ! i ; » a , ' Y^ t ^^^^^^B^k>_. f'Jik This mountain is more than 14,000 feet high, and is covered with perpetual snow. On the 25th April, I bade farewell to my kind friend Mr. Frazer, and his amiable children, who had treated me with every mark of atten- tion and kindness. All the men in the camp insisted on honoring me with an escort, and accompanied me a dis- tance of ten miles. Here we separated, each one affectionately pressed my hand — mutual good wishes were exchanged — tears flowed on both sides — and I was left with my companions in one of those wild ravines where nothing meets the eye, but ranges of gloomy mountains rising on all sides, like so many impassable barriers. Upper Athabasca is, unquestionably, the most elevated part of North America. All its mountains are prodigious, and their rocky and snow-capt summits seem to lose themselves in the clouds. At this season, immense masses of snow often become loosened and roll down the mountains' sides with a terrific noise, that re- sounds throughout these quiet solitudes like distant thunder — so irresistible is the velocity of their descent, that they frequently carry with them enormous fragments of rock, and force a 1 OREGON MISSIONS. 190 et high, ny kind hildren, f atten- )noring e a dis- d, each mutual wed on ^anions nothing untains xssable y, the A.1I its :y and ves in 5ses of tvn the at re- like 3locity y with )rce a s passage throujrh the dense forests which cover the base of the mountain. At each hour, the noise of ten avalanches descending at once, breaks upon thf^ ear ; on every side we see them precipitated with a frightful rapidity. From these mountains, the majestic river of the north, the upper branch of the Sascatshawin, the two great forks of the McKenzie, the Atha- basca and Peace rivers, the Columbia, and Frazer at the west, derive the greater part of their waters. In the neighborhood of the Miette river, we fell in with one of those poor families of Por- teurs or " Itoaten," of New Caledonia, of whom I spoke to you in a former letter ; they saw us from the summit of the mountain that over- looks the valley through which we were pass- ing, and perceiving we were whites, hastened down to meet us. They appeared overjoyed at seeing us, particularly when they discovered that I was a Black-gown ; they crowded around me, and begged me to baptize them with an earnestness that affected me to tears, though I was able to grant this favor to only two of their smallest children, the others required instruction, but there was no interpreter. I exhorted them to return soon to their own country, where they .> . I, )\ 200 OREGON MISSIONS. would find a Black-gown (Father Nobili) who would instruct them. They made the sign of the cross, recited some prayers in their own language, and sang several hymns with great apparent devotion. The condition of these people seemed very wretched; they had no clothes but a few rags and some pieces of skins, and yet, notwithstanding their extreme poverty, they laid at my feet the mountain sheep they had just killed. The history of a poor young woman, one of their number, deserves to be recorded, as it affords a lively picture of the dangers and afflic- tions to which these unfortunate people are often exposed. When she was about fifteen years of age, her father, mother, and brothers, together with another family of her nation, were surprised in the wood by a party of Assiniboine warriors, and massacred without mercy. At the time of this horrid scene, the young girl was in another part of the forest with her two sisters, both younger than herself; they suc- ceeded in concealing themselves, and thus es- caped falling into the bands of the assassins. The hapless orphan wandered about the desert for two years, without meeting any human being, subsisting on roots, wild fruits, and porcu- I u • *) r ' ^. M - OREGON MISSIONS. 201 ili) who sign of nr own h great f these bad no >f skins, )overty, jp they one of , as it 1 afflic- ►le are fifteen others, 1, were liboine y. At g girl r two y suc- us es- issins. desert uman porcu- I pines. In winter she sheltered herself in the abandoned den of a bear. The sisters left her at the end of the first year, since which they have never been heard of. At length, after three years, she was fortunately found by a good Canadian, who took her home, provided her with comfortable food and clothing, and six months after restored her to her tribe. We resumed our journey the following day, and arrived about nightfall on the banks of the Athabaska, at the spot called the " Great Crossing." Here we deviated from the course of that river, and entered the valley de la Fourche du Trou. As we approached the highlands the snow became much deeper. On the 1st of May, we reached the great Bature, which has all the appearance of a lake just drained of its waters. Here we pitched our tent to await the arrival of the people from Columbia, who always pass by this route on the way to Canada and York Factory. Not far from the place of our en- campment, we found a new object of surprise and admiration. An immense mountain of pure ice, 1,500 feet high, enclosed between two enormous rocks. So great is the transparency of this beautiful ice, that we can easily distin- > »' r' ). '. »^ V ' 1 i. 11 I f * : i t^ 11 i E • i ( 1 1 I^M p- ' f i« ' ^ 202 OREGON MISSIONS. guish objects in it to the depth of more than six feet. One would say, by its appear- ance, that in some sudden and extraordinary swell of the river, immense icebergs had been forced between these rocks, and had there piled themselves on one another, so as to form this magnificent glacier. What gives some color of probability to this conjecture is, that on the other side of the glacier, there is a large lake of considerable elevation. From the base of this gigantic iceberg, the river Trou takes its rise. The people of Columbia have just arrived. I must therefore take this present opportunity, the only one I shall have for a long time, of sending you my letters, and before closing this, permit me again to recommend myself and all my missions to your holy sacrifices and fervent prayers. Meantime, I have the honor to be, with the most sincere respect and esteem, Monseigneur, your very humble and obedient servant in Jesus Christ, P. J. DE SMET, S. J. H . ., I i^f^V OREGON MISSIONS. 203 >re than appear- ►rdinary id been ire piled »rm this le color k on the pge lake base of akes its arrived. )rtunity, time, of g this, and all fervent riih the igneur, n Jesus No. XVI. A. M. D. G. Boat Encampment on the Columbia, ) May 10th, 1846. J Very Rev. and Dear Father Provincial : — By my last letter to the distinguished Prelate of New- York, in w^hich I gave my different mis- sionary excursions during 1845-46 among several tribes of the Rocky Mountains, you have learned that I had arrived at the base of the Great Glacier, the source of the river du TroUf w^hich is a tributary of the Athabaska, or Elk river. I will now give to your reverence the continuation of my arduous and difficult journey across the main chain of the Rocky Mountains, and down the Columbia, on my re- turn to my dear brethren in Oregon. Towards the evening of the 6th of May, we discovered, at the distance of about three miles, the approach of two men in snow shoes, who soon joined us. They proved to be the fore- fi- '^'i*>* -P 1 ^ 1 •' 1 : t' i Vi - n mi I It l\ 204 OREGON MISSIONS. runners of the English Company which, in the spring of each year, go from Fort Vancouver to York Factory, situated at the mouth of the river Nelson, near the fifty-eighth degree north latitude. In the morning my little train was early ready ; we proceeded, and after a march of eight miles we fell in with the gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Company. The time of our reunion was short, but interesting and joyful. The great melting of the snow had already begun, and we were obliged to be on the alert to cross in due time, the now swelling rapids and rivers. The news between travellers, who meet in the mountains is quickly conveyed to one another. The leaders of the company were my old friends, Mr. Ermatinger, of the Honorable Hudson Bay Company, and two distinguished officers of the English army. Captains Ward and Vavasseur, whom I had the honor of entertain- ing last year at the Great Kalispel lake. Capt. Ward is the gentleman who had the kindness to take charge of my letters for the States and for Europe. Fifteen Indians of the Kettle-Fall tribe ac- companied him. Many of them had scaled the mountains with one hundred and fifty pounds leir backs. The wort Lght upon •thy Capt. ^ OREGON MISSIONS. 205 in the ncouver L of the ;e north in was march ^men of of our joyful, already le alert rapids rs, who eyed to ly were norable guished ard and tertain- Capt. ness to and for ibe ac- led the )ounds Capt. f^ Ward spoke many things in praise of them. He admired their honesty and civility, and above all, their sincere piety and great regularity in their religious duties ; every morning and even- ing, they were seen retiring a short distance from the camp, to sing one or two hymns, and join in common prayer. " I hope," added the Captain, "I shall never forget the example, which these poor, but good savages, have given me. During the time that they were with me, I was much struck by their becoming deport- ment, and I have never seen more sincere piety than they exhibited. " The gentlemen of the English Company were now at the end of their chief difficulties and troubles. They gladly threw away their snow shoes to take horses for four days ; at Fort Jas- per they were to enter skiffs, to go to Fort Assiniboine, on the river Athabasca. For my- self, I had to try the snow shoes for the first time in my life ; by means of them, I had to as- cend those frightful ramparts, the barriers of snow, which separate the Atlantic world from the Pacific Ocean. I have, in my previous letters, already told you, that this is probably the most elevated point of the Rocky Mountains, where five great rivers derive their sources, 10 !!■: t m.'' r S ■! I* rri' J >i ^! 1 !l f )« |iij 4t * -I . il ii 206 OREGON MISSIONS. viz. : the north-branch of the Sascatshawin, flowing into Lake Winnepeg, the Athabasca and Peace rivers, uniting and flowing into Great Slave Lake, which is discharged into the North- ern Ocean, by the Mackenzie, the most solitary of rivers. From the bosom of these mountains the Columbia and Frazer rivers derive water from a thousand fountains and streams. We had now seventy miles to travel in snow shoes, in order to reach the boat encampment on the banks of the Columbia. We proposed to accomplish this in two days and a half. The most worthy and excellent Messrs. Rowan and Harriot, whose kindness at the Rocky Mountain House and Fort Augustus I shall ever acknow- ledge, were of opinion, that it was absolutely impossible for me to accomplish the journey, on account of my heavy mould, and they wished to dissuade me from attempting it. However, I thought I could remedy the inconvenience of my surplus stock, by a vigorous fast of thirty days, which I cheerfully underwent. I found myself much lighter indeed, and started off somewhat encouraged, over snow sixteen feet deep. We went in single file — alterni4,!.eiy as- cending and descending — sometimes across plains piled up with avalanches — sometime 1"^ T v^ OREGON MISSIONS. 207 ihawin, labasca o Great North- solitary untains 5 water in snow mpment roposed If. The ran and ountain icknow- solutely 'ney, on ished to irever, I ence of f thirty I found ted off en feet L'jiy as- across netime over lakes and rapids buried deeply under the snow — now, on the side of a deep mountain — then across a forest of cypress trees, of which we could only see the tops. I cannot tell you the number of my summersets. I continually found myself embarrassed by my snow shoes, or entangled in some branch of a tree. When falling, I spread my arms before me, as one naturally would do, to break the violence of the fall ; and upon deep snow the danger is not great, — though I was often half buried, when I required the assistance of my companions, which was always tendered with great kindness and good humor. We made thirty miles the first day, and then made preparations to encamp. Some pine trees were cut down and stripped of their branches, and these being laid on the snow, furnished us with a bed, whilst a fire was lighted on a floor of green logs. To sleep thus — under the beau- tiful canopy of the starry heavens — in the midst of lofty and steep mountains — among sweet murmuring rills and roaring torrents — may appear strange to you, and to all lovers of rooms, rendered comfortable by stoves and feathers; but you may think differently after having come and breathed the pure air of the '%:.. %h I i V 1 it*' : t i » > i , < I l-:u n li . '1 ■■i ™" 1 ■«' i 208 OREGON MISSIONS. mountains, where in return, coughs and colds are unknown. Come and make the trial, and you will say that it is easy to forget the fatigues of a long march, and find contentment and joy even upon the spread branches of pines, on which, after the Indian fashion, we extended ourselves and slept, wrapped up in buffalo robes. The next morning we commenced the dr scent of what is called the Great Western Slope. This took us five hours. The whole slope is covered with gigantic cedars, and with pine trees of different species. Wo to the man, who happens to have a heavy body, or to make a false step. I say this from experience ; for many times I found myself twenty or thirty feet from the point of my departure — happy indeed if, in the fall, I did not violently strike my head against the trunk of some great tree. At the foot of the mountain an obstacle of a new kind presented itself. All the barriers of snow, the innumerable banks, which had stopped the water of the streams, lakes, and torrents, were broken up during the night, and swelled considerably the Great Portage river. It meanders so remarkably in this straight valley, down which we travelled for a day and a half, ^ OREGON MISSIONS. 209 I colds Lnd you 'ues of nd joy les, on [tended buffalo the dr 1 Slope, lope is th pine e man, o make f^e ; for •ty feet indeed ly head ile of a •iers of |h had ;s, and [ht, and river. I valley, a half. that we were compelled to cross the said river not less than forty tim^^.?, with the ater fre- quently up to our s^ oulders. So great is its impetuosity, that we were obliged mutualhr to support ourselves, to prevent being carried away by the current. We marched in our wet clothes during the rest of our sad route. The long soaking, joined to my great fatigue, swelled my limbs. All the nails of my feet came off, and the blood stained my moccasins or Indian shoes. Four times I found my strength gone, and I should certainly have perished in that frightful region, if the courage and strength of my companions had not roused and aided me in my distress. We saw May-poles all along the old encamp- ments of the Portage. Each traveller who passes there for the first time, selects his own. A young Canadian, with much kindness, dedicat- ed one to me, which was at least one hundred and twenty feet in height, and which reared its lofty hoad above all the neighboring trees. Did I deserve it ? He stripped it of all its branches, only leaving at the top a little crown ; at the bottom my name and the date of the transit were written. Moose, reindeer, and mountain goats are frequently found in this region. • h ' tk ■>■■ .1 - .'i;. I m 4 i' HP! v- ii^ 210 OREGON MISSIONS. We next passed through a thick and moun- tainous forest, where hoary pines lay pros- trate by thousands — and where many a giant tree, in its full vigor, had been levelled to the ground by the raging tempest. On issuing from the forest, an extensive march presented itself, through which we had to plod, up to the knees in mud and water ; this trouble was trifling com- pared to the past, and we were still more en- couraged at the sight of a beautiful and verdant plain, where four reindeer were seen carousing, bouncing, and jumping in the midst of plenty. No doubt they, as well as ourselves, had issued forth from the snowy and icy cliffs, and felt light-hearted and joyful at the delightful pros- pect of mountain and plain at ^iiis season of the year. On approaching, a dozen guns were at once levelled against the innocent and timid creatures. I was pleased to observe, by the wonderful rapidity with which they used their legs, that no one had injured their noble and beautiful frames. Towards the middle of the day we arrived at the Boat Encampment, on the bank of the Co- lumbia, at the mouth of the Portage river. Those who have passed the Rocky Mountains ree degrees of north latitude, during ^x#. t fifty z^- OREGON MISSIONS. 211 1 moun- ly pros- a giant d to the ing from d itself, le knees ing com- lore en- verdant roasing, ' plenty. ,d issued ind felt ul pros- ason of as were id timid by the ed their ble and rived at the Co- e river, luntains during i t the great melting of the snows, know whethrr or not we merit the title of good travellers. It required all my strength to accomplish it, aid I confess that I would not dare undertake it again. After so many labors and dangers, we deserv- ed a repast. Happily, we found at the encamp- ment all the ingredients that were necessary for a feast — a bag of flour, a large ham, part of a reindeer, cheese, sugar, and tea in abundance, which the gentlemen of the English Company had charitably left behind. While some were employed refitting the barge, others prepared the dinner ; and in about an hour we found oui*- selves snugly seated and stretched out around the kettles and roasts, laughing and joking about the summersets on the mountains, and the accidents on the Portage. I need not tell you, that they described me as the most clii][nsy and awkward traveller in the bani ' Three beautiful rivers unite at this place: the Columbia, coming from the south-east— the Portage river, from the north-east, and the Canoe river from the north-west. We were surrounded by a great number of magnificent mountains, covered with perpetual snow, and rising from twelve to sixteen thousand feet II :iElv ,r?i •r: ^^ "ji . 212 OREGON MISSIONS. fi above the level of the ocean. The Hooker and the Brown are the highest, the latter measuring sixteen thousand feet. Very Rev. and dear Father Provincial, your humble brother in Jesus Christ, P. J. DE SMET, S. J. 1^. OREGON MISSIONS. 213 cer and isuring 1, your S.J. No. XVll. A. M. D. G. St. Paul's Station, near Colville, > May, 29th, 1846. J Very Rev. and Dear Father Provincial — The Columbia at the Boat Encampment is 3,600 fet t above the level of the sea. Having finished our meal, we launched the barge and rapidly de- scended the river, which was now swollen many feet above its usual level. Did not more serious avocations call him away, an admirer of Nature would willingly linger in a region like this. The volcanic and basaltic islands — the range of picturesque mountains, whose bases came to bathe in the river, whilst their summits seemed to be struggling, in the giant efforts of the avalanche, to throw off the winding-sheet of winter, in order to give place to the new and beautiful verdure ot the month of May, with its smiling and varied flowers — the thousand fountains which we could at one view behold, 10* •^^.. 214 OREGON MISSIONS. r^ w ■ f 1 I : (I- i ■>' ' MH ii'? If t.- 1, 1 i } 4 ' n ' ir HI 1 M I / leaping out with soothing music from the shelves of perpendicular rocks bordering the river — all lent their aid to increase the beauty of the scenery of Nature, w^hich, in this region of the Columbia, seems to have put forth all her energy to display her grandeur and magnificence. After some hours of descent we came to Martin's rapid, where a Canadian, so called, together with his son, found a watery grave. Its roar is deafening, and the agitation of the water resembles that of a raging sea-storm. The whole bed of the river is here strewed with immense fragments of rocks. Guided by an expert Iroquois pilot, and aided with ten oars, the boat darted over its boisterous surface, dancing-like and leaping from wave to . wave , with the rapidity of lightning. At sunset we were at the Dalle of the Dead. (Dalle is an old French word, meaning a trough, and the name is given by the Canadian voya- geurs to all contracted running waters, hemmed in by walls of rocks.) Here, in 1838, twelve unfortunate travellers were buried in the river. The waters are compressed betv/een a range of perpendicular rocks, presenting innumerable crags, fissures and cliffs, through which the Columbia leaps with irrestible impetuosity, OREGON MISSIONS. 215 le shelves river — all ty of the on of the er energy ice. came to called, y grave, n of the 3a-storm. ived with 1 by an ten oars, surface, o , wave , he Dead, a trough, in voya- hemmed , twelve le river, range of merable lich the etuosity, «:f| ^' forming, as it dashes along, frightful whirl- pools, where every passing object is swallowed and disappears. By means of two long ropes we dropped down our boat through the Dalle, and encamped for the night at its outlet. On the 11th we continued our route at early dawn — the mountain scenery was hidden from our view wrapped up in dense mist and fog, which were seen ascending in dense pillars, adding to the forming clouds above, till the whole sky was overcast. Occasionally, as if to break upon the unusual monotony, would a fallow or reindeer be observed on the margin of the stream, or peeping with uplifted ears from a thicket, as the strange sound of oars, or the Canadian song, came stealing louder and louder upon them in their quiet abode: — off they bounded, affrighted at the sight of men, so hate- ful, it appears, to the wild and timid creatures of the forest. In the evening we encamped at the entrance of the Upper Lake. This beautiful sheet of crystalline water, whilst the rising sun was tinting the tops of a thousand hills around, came most refreshing to the eye. It is about thirty miles long, by four or five wide. Its borders are embellished by overhanging precipices and majestic peaks, h iia I* J' " • * I' ! 1 Ulif !lii Ml iH; 1 Mi 216 OREGON MISSIONS. which, rearing their white heads above the clouds, look down like venerable monarchs of the desert upon the great forests of pines and cedar surrounding the lake. The two highest peaks are called St. Peter and St. Paul. Twenty Indian families, belonging to the station of St. Peter, were found encamped on the borders of the lake. I gladly accepted their invitation to visit them. It was the meeting of a father with his children, after ten months of absence and dangers. I dare say the joy was mutually sincere. The greater part of the tribe had been converted during the past year, at Kettle Falls. These families were absent at that time. I passed, therefore, several days among them, to instruct them in the duties and practices of religion. They then received bap- tism, with all the marks of sincere piety and gratitude. Gregory, the name of their chief, who had not ceased to exhort his people by word and example, had the happiness to receive baptism in 1838, from the hands of the Rev. Mr., now Archbishop, Blanchet. The worthy and respectable chief was now at the hjlght of his joy, in seeing at last all his children brought under the standard of Jesus Christ. The tribe of these lake Indians are a part of the Kettle *'W'' 1 OREGON MISSIONS. 217 ve the rchs of les and highest to the ^ ped on 3d their 3ting of nths of *n oy was le tribe ear, at sent at l1 days ies and ^ r d bap- - ty and chief, pie by eceive e Rev. worthy ght of rought tribe Kettle •t *, f Fall nation. Ihey are very poor, and subsist principally on fish and wild roots. As soon as we shall have more means at our disposal, we will supply them with implements of husbandry and with various seeds and roots, which I have no doubt, will thrive well in their country ; this will be a great assistance to these destitute people. The second lake is about six miles distant from the first. It is of about the same * length, but less wide. We passed under a per- pendicular rock, where we beheld an innumera- ble number of arrows sticking out of the fis- sures. The Indians, when they ascend the lake, have a custom of lodging each an arrow into these crevices. The origin and cause of the custom is unknown to me. t ' The mouth of the river McGilvray or Flat- Bow, is near the outlet of the Lower Lake. It presents a beautiful situation for the establish- ment of a future Reduction or Mission, and I have already marked out a site for the construc- tion of a church. About twenty miles lower, we passed the Flat-Head or Clark's river, which contril^tes largely to the Columbia. These two beautiful rivers derive a great portion of their waters from the same chain of the Rocky Mountains, from which a great number of the 218 OREGON MISSIONS. il!i! HI m\ forks of the south branch of the Sascatshawin and of the Missouri are supplied. For a dis- tance of about thirty miles from their junction with the Columbia, are they obstructed by in- surmountable falls and rapids. Among the many lakes connected with the Flat-Head river, three are very conspicuous, and measure from thirty to forty miles in length, and from four to six in width. The Flat- Head lake receives a broad and beautiful stream, extending upwards of a hundred miles in a north-western direction, through a most delightful valley, and is sup- plied by considerable torrents, coming from a great cluster of mountains, connected imme- diately with the main chain, in which a great number of lakes lie imbedded. Clark's fork passed through Lake Kalispel. Lake Roothaan is situated in the Pend-d*oreille and Flat-Bow mountains, and discharges itself by the Black- gown river into the Clark, twenty miles below the Kalispel Lake. The St. Mary's, or Bitter- root river, from the south-east, is the greatest tributary of Clark's fork, and the chief residence of the Flat-Heads. All these waters tontain an abundance of fish, especially trout. The geography of the head of Clark's Fork, is little known, as appears from the maps, the south- I ,t I OREGON MISSIONS. 219 shawin r a dis- unction I by in- ng the id river, pe from four to eives a ipwards Lrection, is sup- from a imme- a great {*s fork oothaan lat-Bow Black- s below • Bitter- greatest sidence iontain t. The is little south- 4 east branch on the Saint Mary's river being only a small tributary compared to the main stream, coming from the north-west, and passing threiugh the great Flat-Head lake. Our barge was in great danger in the Dalle, some miles above Colville. I had left it, to go on foot, to avoid the dangerous passage. The young boatmen, notwithstanding my remon- strances, thought they could pass in safety. A whirlpool suddenly arrested their course, and threatened to bury them beneath its angry waters. Their redoubled efforts proved in- effectual — I saw them borne on with an irre- sistible force to the engulfing centre — the bow of the boat descended already into the abyss and filled ! I was on my knees upon the rock which overhung this frightful spectacle, sur- rounded by several Indians — we implored the aid of Heaven in favor of our poor comrades — they seemed to be evidently lost — when the whirlpool filled, and threw them from its bosom, as if reluctantly yielding up the prey which it had so tenaciously held. We all gave heartfelt thanks to Almighty God for having delivered them from a danger so imminent. From the outlet of the Lower Lake of the Columbia to Fort Colville, the aspect of the •11' IB t" 1 "I I"" f 1 } ' fl!lj i;P •■ ! ill I ! ||: 220 OREGON MISSIONS. country is highly picturesque and interesting. The whole section, on both sides of the river, is well supplied with rivulets and streams. The soil is rather light, but it affords fine graz- ing; the mountains are not high — the forests are open — the bottom lands present here and there beautiful groves — the surface of the soil yields an abundant and luxuriant grass. Towards the end of the month of May I ar- rived at Fort Colville. I found the nation of Shuyelphi or Kettle Fall already baptized by the Rev. Father Hoecken, who had continued to instruct them after my departure in the month of August of last year. They had built, to my great surprise, a small frame church, so much the more beautiful and agreeable to my eyes, as being their first attempt at architecture, and the exclusive work of the Indians. With a laudable pride they conducted me, as in triumph, to the humble and new temple of the Lord, and in favor of that good people, and for their perseverance in the faith, I there offered the august Sacrifice of the Altar. The arrival of the good Father Nobili at Colville filled us with great joy and consolation. He had made missionary excursions over the greatest portion of New Caledonia. Every- OREGON MISSIONS. 221 ?sting. river, reams. ! graz- forests e and tie soil jr I ar- tion of by the aed to month to my much y eyes, e, and ith a iumph, Lord, r their red the )ili at )lation. rev the Every- ;;■ where the Indian tribes received him with open arms, and took great care to bring their little children to be baptized. I add to this an ex- tract from his letter, which will give you an outline of his journey and the number of bap- tisms he performed. Having made a retreat of eight days in the Reduction of St. Ignatius, and after a month of repose and preparation for a second expedition, he returned with renewed zeal and fervor to his dear Caledonians, accom- panied by several laborers, and supplied with a dozen horses, loaded with implements of agri- culture and carpentry. As a token of my sincere gratitude, and to let you know that we have friends and bene- factors in Oregon, I must here state to your Reverence, that Father Nobili and myself were most hospitably entertained during our stay at Fort Colville. The kindness of the Honorable Mr. Lewes and family I shall never forget. The attention shown Father Nobili, in the trading posts of New Caledonia is beyond all praise. Tru- ly and deservedly has Commodore Wilkes stated, "That the liberality and hospitality of all the gentlemen of the Honorable Hudson Bay Com- pany are proverbial." Indeed, we experience this and participate of it on all occasions. *• \i 222 OREGON MISSIONS. I remain, with profound respect and esteem, Very Rev. and dear Father, your humble and obedient servant, P. J. DE SMET, S. J. W4 lil s-i H I ;|. >t lifk- OREGON MISSIONS. 223 id esteem, mble and r, s. J. No. XVIII. A. M. D. G. EXTRACT FROM FATHER NOBILl's LETTER. Fort Colville, June Ist, 1846. Rev. Father, — While I remained at Fort Van- couver, I baptized upwards of sixty persons, during a dangerous sickness which raged in the country. The majority of those who received baptism, died with all the marks of sincere conversion. On the 27th of July, I baptized nine children at Fort Okinagane — ^the children of the chief of the Sioushwaps were of the number. He appeared full of joy at seeing a Black-gown direct his course towards their country. On the 29th I left Okinagane, and followed the company. Every night I prayed with the whites and Indians. On the road three old men came to me| and earnestly begged me to " take pity on them, and prepare them far heaven /" Having instructed them in the duties and principles of religion, and the necessity of baptism, I administered to them, and to forty- i {i?- ;». > ^p 224 OREGON MISSIONS. k i i i i ) t I six children of the same tribe, what seemed to be the height of their desires, the holy Sacra- ment of regeneration. On the 11th of August, a tribe of Indians, residing about the Upper Lake on Thompson's River, came to meet me. They exhibited to- wards me all the marks of sincere and filial attachment. They followed me several days to hear my instructions, and only departed after having exacted a promise that I would return in the course of the following autumn or winter, and make known to them the glad tidings of salvation. At the Fort of the Sioushwaps, I received a visit from all the chiefs, who congratulated me on my happy arrival amongst them. They raised a great cabin to serv**. as a church, and as a place to teach them during my stay. I baptized twelve of their chilaren. I was obliged, when the Salmon fishing commenced, to sepa- rate for some months from these dear Indians, and continue my route to New Caledonia. I arrived at Fort Alexandria on the 25th. All the tribes I met manifested towards me the same emotions of joy and friendship. To my surprise I found at the Fort a frame church. I returned in the fall and remained there a month, OREGON MISSIONS. 22i ;emed to y Sacra- Indians, lompson's ibited to- and filial i[ days to rted after lid return or winter, tidings of eceived a iilated me tn. They urcli, and y stay. I as obliged, , to sepa- ir Indians, mia. the 25th. ds me the >. To my church. I e a month, engaged in all the exercises of our holy minis- try. The Canadians performed their religious duties — I joined several in marriage, and ad- ministered to many the Holy Communion/ Twenty- four children and forty-seven adults received baptism. On the 2d of September, I ascended the river Frazer, and after a dangerous trip, arrived, on the 12th, at Fort George ; where the same joy and affection on the part of the Indians attended me. Fifty Indians had come down from the Rocky Mountains, and patiently awaited my arrival for nineteen days, in order to have the consolation of witnessing the ceremony of bap- tism. I baptized twelve of their children, and twenty-seven others, of whom six were adults advanced in age. I performed there the cere- monies of the planting of the Cross. On the 14th, the Feast of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross, I ascended the river Nesqually, and on the 24th, arrived at the Fort of Lake Stuart. I spent eleven days in giving instruc- tions to the Indians, and had the happiness of abolishing the custom of burning the dead, and that of inflicting torments upon the bodies of the surviving wives or husbands. They so- lemnly renounced all their juggling and idola- >^ ^^ • f Is ,* ! I 1 I J( ;;■:! ii t--' ! n .* ! _ "ii J 226 OREGON MISSIONS. tries. Their great medicine-hall, where they used to practise their superstitious rites, was changed into a church. It was blessed and dedi- cated to God under the patronage of St. Francis Xavier. The planting of the Cross was solemnly performed with all the ceremonies proper to such occasions. Sixteen children and five old men received baptism. The 24th Oct., I visited the village of the Chilcotins. This mission lasted twelve days, during which time I baptized eighteen children and twenty-four adults, and performed eight mar- riages. I blessed here the first cemetery, and buried, with all the ceremonies of the ritual, an Indian woman, the first converted to Christianity. I next visited two other villages of the same tribe — in the first I baptized twenty persons, of whom three were adults. In the second, two chiefs with thirty of their nation received baptism, and two were united in matrimony. Poligamy prevailed everywhere, and everywhere I succeeded in abolishing it. In a neighboring tribe I bap- tized fifly-seven persons, of whom thirty-one were adults. I also celebrated nine marriages. After my return to the Sioushwaps, I bap- tized forty-one persons, of whom eleven were adults. I visited h\e more villages among the 1 N I,' OREGON MISSIONS. 227 here they rites, was . and dedi- 5t. Francis ross was eremonies ildren and ige of the elve days, in children eight mar- letery, and 3 ritual, an hristianity. same tribe s, of whom chiefs with n, and two r prevailed seeded in 3e I bap- thirty-one narriages. ps, I bap- even were imong the neighboring tribes, amongst whom I baptized about two hundred persons. I performed the ceremony of the planting of the Cross, in eight different places, and founded four frame churches which were constructed by the savages. On an average, each village or tribe consists of about two hundred so.uls. ^ In the neighborhood of Fort Alexandria the number of souls amounts to 1255 About Fort George, 343 In the neighborhood of Frazer's Lake, 258 Stuart's Lake, 211 McLeod's Lake, 80 FortRabine, 1190 Bear Lake, 801 it «( <( it «« M (« « Total number of souls, 4138 Population on Thompson's river, or on the land of the Sioushwaps or Atnass. The number of Sioushwaps, so called, is 583 " of Okinaganes, 685 Population on the North Branch, 525 on Lake Superior, 322 at the Fountain of Frazer Lake, 1 127 Number of Knife Indians, 1530 a t( Total number of souls, 4772 I remain, reverend Father, yours, &c., J. NOBILI, S. J. ■1^,' .''Ofti u \r 'f.'^l » r, in 1)1 I ii. 228 OREGON MISSIONS, ^--m^V No. XIX. A. M. D. G. Fort Walla-Walla, ) July 18th, 1846. J Very Rev. and Dear Father Provincial, — I accepted the kind offer of Mr. Lewes, and took my seat in one of the barges of the Hudson Bay Company, on its way to Fort Vancouver. We stopped at Fort Okinagane, where I adminis- tered baptism to forty-three persons, chiefly chil- dren. Our passage was very pleasant and agreeable. I have little to add to what I have already stated in my preceding letters of last year, respecting our residence at Saint Francis Xavier*s, and the other Catholic establishments in the Willamette Valley and vicinity. St. James' Church at Vancouver, St. John's in Oregon City, St. Mary's at the Convent, and St. Francis Xavier's chapel have all been opened for divine service. The new church among the Cana- dians, and the Cathedral, were fast progressing. The number of children in the Sisters* school OREGON MISSIONS. 229 ''alia, 3th, 1846 .1 ►VINCIAL, — ^I IS, and took ludson Bay uver. We I adminis- hiefly chil- asant and hat I have ters of last iiit Francis blishments St. James* in Oregon St. Francis for divine the Cana- rogressing. ters* school had greatly increased, and a change for the bet- ter already taken place among the little metis girls confided to their care. Sister Loyola, the Superior, appeared delighted with their present conduct. Two Protestant families, among the most respectable in Oregon, Dr. Long and lady and Judge Burnet and family, were received into the bosom of the Catholic Church, in Oregon City. Archbishop Blanchet and companions were anxiously expected ; may the Lord speed them, and grant them a happy passage on the boisterous ocean — a route which, it appears, they have selected in order to reach their des- tined new homes. O, how large is the vine- yard ! — the Island of Vancouver alone contains upwards of twenty thousand Indians, ready to receive our missionaries — and an extensive field awaits the laborers, among the numerous nations of the north-west coast. The visits paid to these various tribes, by the Black-gowns^ and the affection and kindness with which they are received by the Indians, leave little doubt of the ultimate success of their holy enterprise. In order to return to the upper Missions, I started in the beginning of July, from Fort Vancouver, two days after the brigade of the Hudson Bay Company had left it. An acci- 11 fi •t- n ■'..'J I ii ! f I n 280 OREGON MISSIONS. dent by the way, fortunately not attended with more serious consequences, here occurred to me. A powder-horn exploded near me accidentally, scorching me severely, and completely stripping the skin from my nose, cheeks and lips — leav- ing me to all appearance, after all my travels, a raw-faced mountaineer. I procured an In- • dian canoe, well-mounted, and soon found my- self during a thunder storm, in the great gap of the Cascade Mountains, through which the mighty Columbia winds its way. The sublime and the romantic appear to have made a grand effort for a magnificent display in this spot. On both sides of the stream perpendicular walls of rock rise in majestic boldness — small rills and rivulets, innumerable crystalline streams pursue their way ; murmuring down on the steep de- clivities, they rush and leap from cascade to cascade, after a thousand gambols, adding, at last, their foaming tribute to the turbulent and powerful stream. The imposing mass of waters has here forced its way between a chain of volcanic, towering mountains, advancing head- long with an irresistible impetuosity, over rocky reefs, and prostrate ruins, for a distance of about four miles ; forming the dangerous, and indeed the last remarkable obstruction — the OREGON MISSIONS. 231 ided with red to me. jidentally, r stripping ips — leav- ly travels, •ed an In- • found my- great gap which the he sublime de a grand Ls spot. On ar walls of i\\ rills and ams pursue steep de- cascade to adding, at •bulent and |s of waters a chain of cing head- over rocky istance of ;erous, and ction — the « great cascades of the Columbia. There is an interesting, and very plausible Indian account of the formation of these far-famed cascades, on which so much has been said and written, so many conjectures rop^arding earth-slides, sinks, or swells, caused by subterraneous volcanic agents. *' Our grandfathers," said an Indian to me, "remember the time when the waters passed here quietly, and without obstruction, under a long range of towering and projecting rocks, which, unable to bear their weight any longer, crumbled down, thus stopping up and raising the bed of the river ; here it overflowed r great forests of cedar and pine, which are still to be seen above the cascades." Indeed, the traveller beholds with astonishment, a great number of huge trunks of trees, still standing upright in water about twenty feet deep. No person, in my opinion, can from a just idea of the cause that produced these remarkable changes, without admitting the Indian nar- rative. My baggage was soon conveyed to the up- per end of the portage. The distance from the cascades to the dalles is about forty-five miles, and is without any obstacle. The moun- tain scenery on both sides of the river, with its 'IS' ■^ '.'in ' I. '-■ - *t I :!l 232 OREGON MISSIONS. clusters of shrubs, cedars, and pines, is truly delightful, heightened occasionally by the sight of the snow-capped Mounts Hood and St. Helena. A favorable breeze made us unfurl two blankets for the want of sails, and as we were gliding rapidly up the stream, we observed several islands of volcanic formation, where the Indians deposit their dead on scaffolds, or in little huts made of pieces of split cedar, frequently covered with mats and boards ; great care is taken to hinder birds of prey, or the rapacious wolves, with their hyena stomachs and plun- dering propensities, from breaking in upon the abode of the dead. The third day we arrived at the great dalles. Indians flock thither from different quarters of the interior, to attend, at this season of the year, to the salmon fisheries. This is their glorious time for rejoicing, gambling, and feasting ; the long lent is passed ; they have at last assembled in the midst of abundance — all that the eye can see, or the nose smell, is fish, and nothing but fish. Piles of them are lying everywhere on the rocks, the Indian huts abound with them, and the dogs are dragging and fighting ovei the offal in all directions. Not less than eight hundred Indians were present on this occasion. OREGON MISSIONS. 2SS is truly [le sight and St. 5 unfurl I as we )bserved here the r in little equently care is apacious ,nd plun- upon the at dalles, arters of the year, glorious ing ; the ssembled eye can hing but here on th them, ovei the n eight ccasiqn, One who has seen them five years ago, poor and almost naked, and who beholds then now, dis- covers with a peculiar feeling of humor and delight, the entire change in their external ap- pearance, a complete metamorphosis, as Ovid would say. Their dresses are of the most gro- tesque character, regardless alike of their ap- propriateness to sex or condition of life. A masquerade character, as we understand it, will at least exhibit unity of design ; but this Indian masquerade sets all unities at defiance. A stout, swarthy Indian, steps proudly by you, ap- parently conscious of the dignity conferred on him by his new acquisitions — a roundabout much too small for him, a pair of tights with straps, with an intervening space showing the absence of linen, form his body dress, while an old fashioned lady's night-cap with large frills, and if he be rich enough, a sailor's glazed cap carefully balanced above it, constitute his head dress ; a pair, and sometimes half a pair of brogans, complete the ludicrous appearance of this Indian dandy. Some appear parading thro' the camp in the full dress of a wagoner, others in a mixture composed of the sailor's, the wag- oner s, and the lawyer's, arranged according to fancy ; but the favorite article of ornamental ^,^?. n \ ■■''' ^; v;, I H r>-,i '♦> '; if-^ !:' i '!') i •^34 O R E < ; (J iV MISSIONS. dress appears to be the night-cap with its large frills ; some again with only one article of dress. I have seen an old Indian showing off a pair of boots to the best advantage, as they formed the only article of his wardrobe then on his person. Indian squaws are seen attired in long calico gowns, little improved by the copious addition of fish oil, with which the taste or negligence of the present owners besmeared them ; occasionally, if they can afford it, to this is superadded a vest, a flannel or great-coat. The dalles at present, form a kind of masquerading thoroughfare, where emigrants and Indians meet, it appears, for the purpose of affording mutual aid. When the Oregon emigrants arrive here, they are general- ly in want of provisions, horses, canoes, and guides — these wants the Indians supply, receiv- ing in exchange the old travelling clothes of the doctors, lawyers, farmers, Germans, Frenchmen, Spaniards, &c., that pass through the dalles on their westward route. Hence the motley col- lection of pants, coats, boots, of every form and size, comforters, caps and hats of every fashion. Here I overtook Messrs. Lewes and Manson, who kindly offered me a place in one of the barges of the Company, which I gladly accepted — the transportation of their boats and goods OREGON MISSIONS. 235 ts large of dress. , pair of med the 5 person. ^ calico Idition of ce of the Lsionally, ;d a vest, t present, re, where s, for the Ihen the gene r al- locs, and f, receiv- les of the nchmen, alles on tley col- form and fashion. Manson, e of the accepted nd goods had taken up a whole day. From the great dalles to the upper sources of the Columbia, great care and attention are to be had in its navi- gation, for it presents a constant succession of rapids, falls, cascades, and dalles. Men of great experience are here employed as pilots, and notwithstanding their skill and precaution, no river probably on the globe, li^quented as much, could tell of more disastrous accidents. At the dalles you enter a barren region where drift wood is brought into every en- campment by the Indians, for which they gladly receive a piece of tobacco in return. In the absence of the savages, the tombs of the dead are sometimes shamefully pil- laged by civilized Christian travellers, taking away the very boards that cover the dead bodies, and thus leave them the prey of vultures and crows. Indians linger on the Columbia as long as a salmon can be caught. Unconscious of the approaching winter, they do not lay in sufRcient stock of provisions, and till late in the fall they may be seen picking up the dead and dying fishes which float in great numbers on the surface. In the immediate neighborhood of a camp the air is infected with the scent of 236 OREGON MISSIONS. >**> ' i'v ■?Ia m'--\, i rKi':""^',': '«!>■•; *^^ill salmon in a state of putrefaction ; they are sus- pended on trees, or on scaffolds, and to this un- wholesome and detestable food has the impro- vident Indian recourse, when the days of his long lent commence. You can scarcely form an idea of the deplor- able condition of the poor petty tribes, scattered along the banks of the Columbia, of which the numbers visibly diminish from year to year. Imagine their dwellings, a few poor huts, con- structed of rush, baik, bushes, or of pine branches, sometimes covered with skins or rags — around these miserable habitations lie scattered in profusion the bones of animals, and the offal of fishes of every tribe, amidst accumulated filth of every description. In the interior, you find roots piled up in a corner, skins hanging from cross poles, and fish boiling over the fire, a few dying embers ; an axe to cut wood being seldom found among them. The whole stock of kitchen utensils, drinking vessels, dishes, etc., are comprised in something like a fish-kettle, made of osier, and besmeared with gum — to boil this kettle stones are heated red hot and thrown into it. But the mess cooked in this way, can you guess what it is ? No, not in twenty trials — it is impossible to divine what fe OREGON M 1 C5 JS 1 O N J5 . •.>37 ire sus- this un- impro- j of his 5 deplor- cattered hich the to year, uts, con- of pine skins or itions lie animals, , amidst In the corner, ^h boiling ,n axe to lem. The g vessels, g like a ,red with ated red iS cooked No, not ^ine what I the ingredients are that compose this outlandish soup ! But to pass from the material to the personal ; what strange figures ! faces thickly covered with grease and dirt — heads that have never felt a comb — hands ! but such hands ! a verit- able pair of "jack of all trades," fulfilling in rapid succession, the varied functions of the comb, the pocket-handkerckief, the knife, fork, and spoon — while eating, the process is loudly indicated by the crackling and discordant sounds that issue from the nose, mouth, throat, etc., a sight, the bare recollection of which is enough to sicken any person. Thus you can form some idea of their personal miseries — mis- eries, alas ! that faintly image another species infinitely more saddening ; for what shall I say in attempting to describe their moral condition ? There prevails among the greater part of them, a kind of superstitious idolatry, (called medicine or juggling), that pays homage to the vilest animals ; a degeneracy of morals which knows no stronger tie in conjugal obligations, than the caprice of the moment — a vehement, inordinate passion for gambling, that is prolonged to the time of repose — a laziness which nothing can induce them to shake oflf but the love of play, 11* ' .-'??i 23S OREGON MlStJlONS. h.t n ^ ; !| ' or the pressing claim of hunger — they are in fine, addicted to the vilest habits of gluttony, dissimulation, etc. Such is the wretched con- dition of the poor savage tribes along the Co- lumbia. But amidst all this misery, there is fortunately one redeeming feature, a constant desire to discover some power superior to man ; this disposition renders them attentive to the least word that seems to convey the slightest knowledge of a Supreme Being, and hence the facility with which they believe anything that at all resembles the Word of God. Very reverend and dear Father, your humble and obedient servant, P. J. DE SMET, S. J. -.:« OREGON MISSIONS. 239 No. XX A. M. D. G. St. Ignatius, near the Kalispel Bay, > July 26th, 1846. ] Very Rev. and Dear Father Provincial, — The eighth day after my departure from Fort Van- couver, I landed safely at Walla Walla, with the goods destined for the different missions. In a few days all was ready, and having thanked the good and kind-hearted Mr. McBride, the Superintendent of the Fort, who had rendered me every assistance in his power, we soon found ourselves on the way to the mountains leading a band of pack mules and horses over a sandy dry plain, covered with bunch grass and worm- wood. We made about sixteen miles and en- camped for the night, in a beautiful little mea- dow, watered by the Walla Walla river, where we found abundance of grass for our animals — these were soon unloaded and left free to graze ^^^ 240 OREGON MISSIONS. Ir n il :J li at leisure ; we next made a fire, put on the camp-kettle, stretched the bed, consisting of a buffalo-robe, and smoked together the friendly Indian pipe, whilst supper was preparing. We found ourselves at home and perfectly at ease in less than a quarter of an hour. The evening was clear and beautiful — not a cloud — our sleep, sound ard refreshing, prepared us for an early start at dawn of day. We had a day's march, with pack animals, over an undulating plain, before we could reach the crossing of the Nez-perce or Lewis fork, whose source is in the angle of the Rocky and Snowy Moun- tains, between the 42d and 44th degrees, near the sources of the western Rio Colorado, the Platte, the Yellow Stone, and the Missouri rivers : its western course till it reaches the Blue Mountains, and hence its northern direc- tion till it joins the Columbia, together with its principal tributaries, are sufficiently known to you, and have been amply described already. We found about a dozen Indian lodges called the Palooses, a portion of the Sapetan or Nez- perce tribe. We procured from the Indians here some fresh salmon, for which we made them ample return in powder and lead. But as the grass was withered and scanty, and the -I URIiGON MiaSIUiN^. •141 311 the g of a riendly r. We at ease jvening id — our for an a day's lulating ;sing of source r Moun- es, near ado, the Missouri ;hes the n direc- with its nown to jready. is called or Nez- Indians e made But as and the pilfering dispositions of these Indians rather doubtfu). we resolved on proceeding eight or ten miles farther, and encamped late in the evening on the Pavilion river. The Nez-perce and Spokane plain is at least a thousand feet elevated above the bed of the river. It is dry, stony, undulating, covered with bunch and nutri- tious grass, with prickly pear and wormwood. The basaltic and volcanic foi mat ions which ex- tend through the whole of this region are really wonderful. We frequently passed ponrls and small lakes embedded between walls ol basaltic rocks — immense ranges of dark si itdng pillarji*, as if forced from the bosom of the plain, extend for some miles, resembling, not unfrequently, forts and ancient ruined cities and castles. We encamped several times near small but beautiful lakes, where ducks and geese, with their young broods, were swimming in great numbers. The Indians frequent these regions in search of the bitter and camash roots, very abundant here. In every one of their old encampments we ob- served great quantities of prairie-turtle shells, a proof of their being numerous and serving as food for the savages. Pheasants or quails were very abundant — we daily killed what we wanted for our meals. lf'*''T' "',^, ■I'"' ' t' 1 ■' :.-^ t ■,t . 1 i i t rv I;!! ! J ii: Bl ' ■" ' , , "11 ml' ' ' 1 , 1 ■ !; ^ ^\\ H:r \i lit': b i Y • 1 ! 1 f i :i ■;: ' '!» i i 4! III .|9| ! ;: ! iui! 1 K i \ ^^^H u Oil i '' ^^H ' m t-^HR ! ^''fi, i^' i^Hf i j ' . 1^' !- ' Sm 1 ;'" 1 1 W ir-r ' Mk ! ■ , 1*! 1 si'' ■ I'-''''' ■ l-^^' 1 '-'r ^^^H ' » 1 ip;';; H 1' W •!' ' ^ ' ^^H ^' J^H ''S^. « ill 1 If' 1 1 ^11 '*! ::^' ■ ^ ' f i ' lit) • » ! I V ! ' » f 1 242 OREGON MISSIONS. On the fifth day of our departure from Walla Walla, we reached the Spokane river, and found a good fording for our animals. You will see with pleasure the chart I have made of the head waters of this river, which, though beauti- ful and interesting, is yet, like all the other rivers in Oregon, almost an unbroken succession of rapids, falls, and cascades, and of course ill- adapted in its present condition to the purposes of navigation. The two upper valleys of the CcBur d'Alene are beautiful, and of a rich mould ; they are watered by two deep forks, running into the CoBur d'Alene lake, a fine sheet of water, of about thirty miles in length by four or five broad, from which the river Spokane de- rives its source. I called the two upper forks the St. Joseph's and the St. Ignatius. They are formed by innumerable torrents, descending from the Pointed-Heart mountains, a chain of the Rocky Mountains. The two upper valleys are about sixty or eighty miles long, and four or eight miles broad. I counted upwards of forty little lakes in them. The whole neighborhood of the Spokane river afibrds very abundant graz- ing, and in many sections is tolerably well tim- bered with pines of different species. ii|f the eauti- other ;ession rse ill- irposes of the a rich > forks, e sheet by four ane de- r forks |hey are lending ihain of valleys four or |of forty orhood |nt graz- iell tim- On leaving the river we ascended by a steep Indian path. A few miles' ride across a pine forest brings you to a beautiful valley, leading to Colville, agreeably diversified by plains and forests, hemmed in by high wooded mountains, and by huge picturesque rocks towering their lofty heads over all the rest. Fountains and rivulets are here very nurierous. After about thirty miles, we arrived at the foot of the Kalispel Mountain, in the neighborhood of St. Francis Regis, where already about seventy metis or half-breeds have collected to settle permanently. Several of them accompanied me across the mountain, the height of which is about five thousand feet above the level of the plain. Its access is very easy on the western side ; on the eastern, the narrow path winds its snake-like course through a steep and dense forest.— After a march of about eight hours we arrived at the beautiful Kalispel Bay, on the margin of lake De Boey, almost in sight of the Reduction of St. Ignatius. — My letter to Mrs. P., which I insert here will make you acquainted with the whole history of that mission. I remain, with the profoundest respect and t i24V I , I ■ J . .iV '«- , : ff ■ I .! iJ:,ji|' 4 i-f .' ^''i 244 UREGON MISSIONS. esteem, Very Rev. Father Provincial, your humble and obedient servant, P. J. DE SMET, S. J. A. M. D. G. St. Ignatius, July 25th, 1846. Madam, — I am, indeed, ashamed at not having been able sooner to answer the letters which you had the kindness to write xiie on the 2d of September and the 7th of Deceniber, 1844. They reached the Rocky Mountaino only the year after, while I was engaged in a distant mission among the Indians, so that I received them only in the month of July, 1846. If it had been in my power to forward you an answer before aiis moment, my heart assures me that I would have done it without delay, for I must tell you here, that the debt of gratitude which my poor In- dians and myself owe you is very great; and I felt impatient to inform you, that we have al- ready begun to pray for you, for your dear and amiable children, and for your intentions. I have given oirections to the Indians of these different tribes, viz., the Flat-Heads, the Pends OREGON MISSIONS. 24^ d'Oreilles, and the Coeur d'Aleues, to recite, every week, the Rosary for one of their great benefactresses^, meaning yourself. Now, you cannot but be aware, that, among the Indians, the beads are recited in each family, so that I am already assured, and I have the consolation of saying to you, that many thousand pairs of beads have already been offered up to God and his august mother for you. Those good Indians — those children of the forest — so dear to my heart, will continue to display their gratitude till I tell them to cease, and that will not be very soon. What confi- dence have I not in the prayers of those Indians, whose merit is known only to God ! Oh ! if it is true that the prayer of him who possesses the innocence, the simplicity, and the faith of a child, pierces the clouds — is all-powerful, and is certainly heard— then beassi.ed that in these new missions, in which the finger of God has been so visibly manifested, these virtues reign pre-eminently, and that the prayer of the Indian will also be heard in your behalf! How happy should I be, my dear, excellent Madam, could I give you to understand how great, i.ov>^ sweet, how enrapturing is their devotion to the august mother of (}od ! The name of Mary, which ■ji5T.";i' f. ■'£'". 'ififfifrnf!" #■* iillii! 1-1 i I! •ii , :j ■>i' ill "I ■ ■^i!! t|l 246 OREGON IVllSSIONS. pronounced in the Indian language, is something so sweet and endearing, delights and charms them. The hearts of these good children of the forest melt, and seem to overflow when they sing the praises of her whom they, as well as we, call their mother. Oh ! I feel confident, knowing, as I do, their dispositions, that they have a distinguished place in the heart of that Holy Virgin ; and that, through the intercession of Mary, invoked by so many fervent souls, you will obtain from God whatever you ask ; for I am too well acquainted with your piety to think that you would ask anything that was not cal- culated to promote the glory of God, the sancti- fication of your own soul, and that of your chil- dren. Permit me, now, to say a few words concern- ing the Indians and myself, since the time I had the honor of conversing with you in B , in the spring of 1843. On the 6th of November of the following vear, the Rev. Father A. Hoecken came to meet me, accompanied by several Indians of the tribe of Pends d'Oreiiles of the Bay, among whom I had determined, two years before, to open a mission. They displayed every mark of friendship and joy at my return among them ; they conducted me in triumph to their camp, ■; f: OREGON MliiiiluSii, 247 ething jharms of the n they well as nfident, it they of that •cession uls, you c; for 1 to think not cal- B sancti- Dur chil- concern- ne I had — , in the er of the en came idians of y, among efore, to r mark of g thom ; ir camp, :1 and received me there amidst volleys of mus- ketry and the sounding of trumpets. It would be impossible to describe the feelings of my heart at thus meeting with the first band of my dear neophytes and children in God, and to re- present to you the real joy which animated them on this occasion. How much had we not to communicate to each other ! I gave them some little and to them interesting details of the vast countries through which I had tra- velled in order to promote the interest and wel- fare of the Indians, since I bade them farewell, that is, within fifteen months. I had crossed the great American desert, and passed through so many warlike, nomadical nations, extending from the Pacific Ocean to the frontier of the the State of Missouri. I had travelled over the United States from New Orleans to Boston — crossed the Atlantic — seen a great part of Ireland and England — the whole of Belgium, Holland and France. From Marseilles I had passed by Genoa, the city of palaces, Leghorn, and Civitta Vecchia, to visit the Capital of the Christian world. From Rome I had gone to Anvers, and then, sailing round Cape Horn, touching at Chili and Peru, and having twice crossed the Equator, I had at length disembark- ^rflf'JBHHIHB .44! if- :t; \:\ ,|iit|i iliiili :i it .11 fii;: ^48 OREGON MliJSlONiS. ed at Fort Vancouver, on the Columbia, and had the happiness to embrace, on the 6th of November, my dear neophytes, who had prayed so fervently for me, that, durino* all these long voyages, by sea and land, parsing through so many different climates, and ar. all seasons of the year, I had not been troubleJ either by sick- ness or any untoward accident. Glory to God for so special a protection, and a thousand thanks to the good Indians who, from the moment of my departure until my return, had not ceased to invoke, morning and evening, the blessing and assistance of Heaven on its un- worthy servant. The details which the yonng missionary gave me respecting their ^resent disposi- tions, are too interesting to be here omitted ; and I give them in proof of the divine grace over the hearts of this well-disposed people. All that I had recommended to them in the visits I paid them in 1841-42, had been strictly complied with. "The first thing," says Father Adrien Hoecken in a letter home. " which struck me on my arrival among them, was a truly brotherly love and perfect union, which ani- mated the whole tribe, and seemed to make ORi^GON MISSIONS. 249 la, and 6th of prayed 36 long [)ugh so sons of ay sick- to God lousand om the irn, had ling, the its un- ssionary disposi- mitted ; e grace people, in the strictly Father 1 struck a truly ich ani- o make I I them but one family. They manifest great love, obedience and respect for their chiefs, and what is still more admirable, they all, as the chiefs themselves declare, speak and desire but one and the same thing. These chiefs are as much the real fathers of their people as is a good Superior the father of a religious com- munity. The chiefs among the Kalispels speak calmly, but never in vain ; the instant they inti- mate their wish to one of their followers, he sets to work to accomplish it. Is any one involved in difficulties — is he in want or sickness, —or does he wish to undertake a journej, whether long or short — he consults his chief, and shapes his conduct in accordance with the advice he receives. Even with regard to marriage, the Indians consult their chiefs, who sanction, or postpone it, or disapprove of it, according as they deem it conducive, or otherwise, to the happiness of the parties. The chief, in quality of father, endeavors to provide for the support of his people. It is he, consequently, who regu- lates hunting, fishing, and the gathering of roots and fruit. All ihe game and fish are brought to his lodge, and divided into as many shares as there are families. The distribution is made with rigid impartiality. The old, the infirm, the f » 1 ■ ♦ .5 .. '■■'■;" I h: # mm i M i iiiij ;-i-,-; ;- t 1 s 1 !'■■■ ii -■■* i ■' i/!Mi m^^ iu if:;i ll 250 OREGON MISSIONS. widow, all receive their share equally with the hunter. Is not this something like the return of the golden age — those happy times when every thing was held in common, and all had, as the apostle informs us, but one heart and one soul ? Complaints, murmurings and backbiting are here unknown ; blasphemy has never been uttered by an Indian : there are not even words in his language to express it." On the arrival of the Blacli'gown, the great chiefs explained to him, with patriarchal simplicity, their manner of life. " We are ignorant," he added, " but now that we have the happiness to have a Black- gown among us, we will listen to his voice and obey it ; whatever changes he may deem neces- sary to make, we will cheerfully submit." The Black-gQwn confirmed and approved all the good practices and customs he found estab- lished in this little corner of the world, where, notwithstanding their poverty, the Indians all seemed contented and happy. It is really affecting to hear them speak of the darkness in which they had been buried ; and to see them now exulting in the light of the gospel, and the knowledge of the Christian virtues, which they cherish, and by which their hearts seem to be inflamed. Their whole ambition consists in listen- OREGON MISSIONS. 251 ing with docility to the word of God, and in being able thoroughly to understand and recite their prayers. Piety is what a young man seeks in her who is to be his future wife — and what a young woman desires to find in him who is to become her husband. In their leisure hours they surround, and, if I may be allowed the ex- pression, besiege their missionary. To the day they would add the night, if he could bear the fatigue, in speaking of heavenly things. Pride and human respect, are absolutely unknown to them. How often have we not seen gray-head- ed old men and even chiefs, sit down by the side of children ten or eleven years old, who would teach them their prayers, and explain to them the figures of the Catholic Ladder, with all the gravity becoming a teacher; and give tp the explanation, for one or two hours, all the attention of obedient pupils. In seasons of scarcity, when the fishing or hunting has failed, or in other misfortunes, they manifest no signs of impatience. They are quiet and resigned re- ceiving them as punishments for their sins; while their success they attribute to the bounty of God, and render to Him all the glory of it. The usual place of residence of the Kalispels — that in which the Reduction of St. Ignatius is I, 'i J* ' 11 ■f: w. A iiiil iip! 252 OREGON MISSIONS now established — is an extensive prairie, called the Bay of the Kalispels, thirty or forty miles above the mouth of Clark or Flat-Head River. A beautiful grotto exists in the neighborhood of the mission, which I have named the grotto of Manresa, in honor of our Holy Founder. It is very large, and might, at a small expense, be fitted up for a church. May the Indians gather in crowds into this new Manresa, and after the example of their patron, St. Ignatius, be pene- trated with a feeling sense of heavenly things, and inflamed with the love of God ! I shall always remember with pleasure the winter of 1844-45, which I had the happinecs of spending among these good Indians. The place for wintering was well chosen, picturesque, agreeable, and convenient. The camp was placed near a beautiful waterfall, caused by Clark river's being blocked up by an immense rock, through which the waters, forcing narrow passages, precipitate themselves. A dense and interminable forest protected us from the north winds, and a countless number of dead trees standing on all sides, furnished us with abun- dant fuel for our fires during the inclement sea- son. We were encircled by ranges of lofty mountains, whose snow-clad summits reflected OREGON MISSIONS. 253 , called J miles River, hood of rotto of •. It is ;nse, be 3 gather ifter the ►e pene- r things, jure the jiness of le place uresque, np was used by mense narrow tnse and e north ,d trees abun- nt sea- f lofty fleeted in the sun, their brightness on all the surround- ing country. The place for wintering being determined, the first care of the Indians was to erect the house of prayer. While the men cut down saplings, the women brought bark and mats to cover them. In two days this humble house of the Lord was completed — humble and poor indeed, but truly the house of prayer, to which pure, simple, innocent souls repaired, to offer to the Great Spirit their vows, and the tribute of their affections. Here the missionaries continued with care and diligence, their instructions preparatory to baptism. How consoling was it to see our- selves surrounded by this fervent band, who had renounced the chase of the buffalo — a pleasure so attracting to an Indian — and had come from various parts of the country to place themselves under our direction, in the well- founded hope of being speedily regenerated in the saving waters of baptism. They had al- ready learned their prayers, and all those things which it was necessary they should practise. They applied with ardor to become acquainted with the nature and obligations of the Sacra- ment of regeneration, and the dispositions re- quired for its worthy reception. 12 1 v! if \fi }■ Hi t I'l'^^ ■'I F r'* f, 'I . , ! '. 1 .1 f ^ 1 ; ; ■'' ' ii -^ i i i t i 254 OREGON MISSIONS. The great festival of Christmas, ll** dajr on which the little band was to be ad ; 1 lo the number of the true children of God, will never be effaced from the memory of our good Indians. The manner in which we celebrated midnight mass, may give you an idea of our festival. The signal for rising, which was to be given a few minutes before midnight, was the firing of a pistol, announcing to the Indians that the house of prayer would soon be open. This was followed by a general discharge of guns, in honor of the 'birth of the Infant Saviour, and three hundred voices rose spontaneously from the midst of the forest, and entoned in the lan- guage of the Pends d'Oreilles, the beautiful canticle : " Du Dieu puissant tout annonce la gloire," — " The Almighty's glory all things pro- claim." In a moment a multitude of adorers were seen wending their way to the humble temple of the Lord — resembling indeed, the manger in which the Messiah was born. On that night, which all at once became bright as day, they experienced, I know not what, that which made them exclaim aloud, "Oh God ! I give Thee my heart." Oh! I trust that the happy impression which this unwonted spectacle made upon their hearts, will never be effaced. Of OREGON MISSIONS. 255 day on lo ibe I never [ndians. lidnigbt festival, given a [iring of that the rhis was guns, in our, and isly from the Ian- beautiful monce let lings pro- adorers humble eed, the |)orn. On bright as rhat, that od ! I give he happy =tcle made aced. Of what was our little church of the wilderness constructed? I have already told you — of posts fresh cut in the woods, covered over with mats and bark ; these were its only materials. On the eve, the church was embellished with garlands and wreaths of green boughs ; forming, as it were, a frame for the images which repre- sent the affecting mysteries of Christmas night. The interior was ornamented with pine bran- ches. The altar was neatly decorated, be- spangled with stars of various brightness, and covered with a profusion of ribbons — things ex- ceedingly attractive to the eye of an Indian. At midnight I celebrated a solemn Mass, the In- dians sang several canticles suitable to the occasion. That peace announced in the first verse of the Angelic hymn — "The Gloria^ — Peace on earth to men of good will," was, I venture to say, literally fulfilled to the Indians of the forest. A grand banquet, according to Indian custom, followed the first Mass. Some choice pieces of the animals slain in the chase had been set apart for the occasion. I ordered half a sack of flour, and a large boiler of sweet- ened coffee to be added. The union, the con- tentment, the joj^ and charity, which pervaded . 1 •< ,«* lilt'' ■^ I ^Hm, \ ^^^K f :. H''-. ;:>■ . ;■' '' B ^^' ;• ' 1 ■ 1 ^H'' v j ■ i \{ R^P ^;fc * Bit ' V^f ^^p Y W ' ' ^H ' 1'^ .'r .' • ,<<■ f 1 ' in I . v'M : i f * 1 • 1 ' 1 ■' 'I l! 256 OREGON MISSIONS. the whole assembly, might well be compared to the agape of the primitive Christians. After the second High Mass, all the aduU"; with the chiefs at their head, presented them- selves in the church to receive baptism, the fulfilment of their longing desires. The old man and woman whom I baptized two years before, were sponsors for all. The meii xVere placed on the one side, according to the custom of Paraguay, and the women on the other. I was assisted during the ceremony, by Father Hoecken, their worthy and zealous missionary. Everything was done in order and with pro- priety. Permit me to repeat here that I should be delighted could I but communicate to the zealous and fervent, those pleasurable feelings — that overflowing of the heart, which one ex- periences on such occasions. Here, indeed, the Indian missionary enjoys his greatest consola- tions : here he obtains his strength, his courage, his zeal to labor to bring men to the knowledge of the true God, in spite of the poverty, the pri- vations of every description, and the dangers with which he has to contend. Yes, surely, even in this life is the promise of the Saviour fulfilled with regard to him, " Ye shall rc- ■i OREGON MISSIONS. 257 Ted to aduU , them- m, the he old > years ,: xvere custom ither. I Father jsionary. rith pro- 1 should e to the feelings one ex- eed, the consola- courage, owledge , the pri- dangers surely, Saviour shall re- ceive a hundred fold." The triflinj? things of the world he abandons, are nothing to be compared with the blessings he finds in the wilderness. The priest does not address in vain to the Indians, those beautiful words of the Roman ritual ; " Receive this white garment, etc.," " Receive this burning taper, etc." He may be certain that the greater number of his catechumens will wear that spotless garment — will preserve their baptismal innocence, to the hour of their death. When I have afterwards asked them, if they have not offended God ? if their conscience does not reproach them with some fault ? how often have I received this touching and consoling answer : " Oh, Father ! in baptism I renounced sin, I try to avoid sin, the very thought of offending God, frightens me ! " The ceremonies of baptism were closed by a second instruc- tion, and by the distribution of beads which the Indians are accustomed to say every evening in public. About 3 o'clock in the afternoon, the solemn bened ction of the blessed sacrament was given for the first time, immediately after which, up- wards of fifty couples, many of whom were eighty years old, came forward to rencnv be tore the Church, their marriage promises. 1 could not .■q^^afsfVw '''J',^i^?^f1^fi>-f'':'^'^'^^ 'A'--*^-?^ tit .^ if - ■ -•^i * ■tr ti i ^1* ; ^1 238 OREGON MISSIONS. help shedding tears of joy at witnessing this truly primitive simplicity, and the love and affection with which they pledged again their faith to each other. The last instruction was then given, and thanks were returned to God for all the blessings he had vouchsafed to shower upon them, on this ever-memor able day. The recitation of prayers and the chanting of hymns were heard in all the lodges of the camp, till the night was far advanced. Fathers Mengarir^i and Serbinati, (the last- mentioned Father has since died), had the con- solation to see the whole tribe of the Flat-Heads, among whom they had been laboring, approach the Holy Table on this day. Twelve young Indians, taught by Father Mengarini, performed with accuracy, several pieces of music during the midnight Mass. Fathers Point and Joset had, also, the consolation of admitting for the first time, nearly the entire tribe of the CoBur d'Alenes, on this auspicious day, to the Holy Communion. Father Point has given the par- ticulars of this fir?t communion in a letter, which has been published, and which you have, no doubt, read with pleasure. Th? Christmas of 1844 was, therefore, a great and glorious day in the Rocky Mountains. r this } and their n was lod for ihower The hymns ap, till le last- tie con- -Heads, pproach young •formed during d Joset for the e Coeur e Holy he par- letter, •u have, iristmas ous day pf? t' ' ■ i - 1 V err : 1 D _3 tA C/2 g I OR£»OM MlBdlOMt. 269 £ I will close this already lengthy letter with a few words more concerning tlie Pends d'Oreilles of the Bay. Early in t\v.^ spring of 1845, they began to build upon the spot selected for the Reduction of St. Ignatius, and to open fields. On Ascension day of the same vear, Father Hoecken administered baptism to upwards of a hundred adults. At my last visit, which I paid them in July last, they had already put up fourteen log houses, besides a large barn, had the timber prepared for a church, and had up- wards of three hundred acres in grain, enclosed by a substantial fence. The whole village, men, women, and children, had worked most cheer- fully. I counted thirty head of horned cattle — the squaws had learned to mill: thv cows and to churn; they had a lew hogs and some domes- tic fowls. The numbf>r of Christians had dou- bled since Christmas, 1844. A flour and saw mill, a few more ploughs, with other agricultural implements, and carpen- ter's tools, were much wanted in the village of St. Ignatius. All is to be commenced among these poor, good Indians, and to us they loo\' for means and supplies, which we readily gu .. as far as we are able. Already was an appeal made *;o the generous and charitable »■•■ » ' .1 k '« I I -i ■■ I ,1 260 OREGON MISSIONS. Christians, and it is consoling for me to say, that appeal found an echo in the hearts of the friends of the Indians, which enabled us to en- large our missionary operations, and I may add, that the grateful prayer of the Indians is daily ascending to the throne of the Almighty, to im- plore the blessings of Heaven on their benefac- tors. In 1845 and '46, several stations were formed, and the extensive mission of New Cale- donia was commenced. I remain, with profound respect and esteem, madam, your very humble and obedient servant, R J. DE SMET, S. J. OREGON MISSIONS. 261 No. XXI. A. M. D. G. Valley of St. Mary's, Aug. 10, 1846. Very Rev. and Dear Father Provincial, — On the 27th July, I bade farewell to Father Hoecken and his interesting little flock, consisting of about five hundred Indians. I was accom- panied by two Kalispels, and some of the CoBur d'Alenes, who came to meet me. We had beautiful weather, and a path remarkably free from those obstructions so annoying to travel- lers in the mountains. Towards the middle of our day's journey, we reached a beautiful lake surrounded by hills, and a thick forest of larch. I have named it the Lake de Nef, as a token of gratitude towards one of the greatest benefac- tors of the mission. It discharges itself through a narrow passage, forming a beautiful rapid, called the Tournhout-torrent, at the termination 12* ps'- 1 !■' p.'-- i' Iv,;, 11 •', ; ■ \ ■h ' ■■X'. i ii ■ f »; ^ III I.I liilM 125 lu U2 12.2 12.0 ul 1 i^ m U4 < 6" ► 4^ 4^ v: > # '^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WIST MAIN STRUT WWSTIR.N.Y. MSIO (7U)l7a-4503 ih.i' fi Liii t'i 266 OREGON MISSIONS. '1^ t' could obtain possession of these, and pay them divine honors, their nation would never afterwards be visited by that dreadful scourge ; and their winter hunts be rendered success- ful by an abundant fall of snow. They ac- cordingly offered him in exchange for these, several of their best horses. The bargain was eagerly closed by the white man. The spotted shirt and the white coverlet became thencefor- ward, objects of great veneration for many years. On grand solemnities, the two manitous were carried in procession to a lofty eminence, usually consecrated to the performance of their superstitious rites. They were then respectfully spread on the grass : the great medicine-pipe oflered to them, with as much veneration, as is customary with the Indians, in presenting it to the sun, the fire, the earth, and the water. The whole band of jugglers, or medicine-men, then entoned canticles of adorcation to them. The service was generally terminated with a grand dance, in which the performers exhibited the most hideous contortions and extravagant gestures, accompanied with a most unearthly howling. The term medicine is commonly employed by the whites, to express whatever regards the i '■•;■-> ', \l »'•: :^-^'''"4. III * I r.i!i I 1^^ i 270 ORUGON MISSIONS. owl could have selected a more fitting abode, certainly none so majestic or mysterious. The death-like silence of this glen, broken only by the passing breeze, the occasional visit of some wild animal, or the constant murmuring of the rills from the rocky banks, impress the beholder with feelings of a most unearthly yet pleasing nature. With much difficulty and fatigue we forced a passage through this dense mass of forest, stooping half the time upon the neck of the horse, to avoid the low thorny branches, so thickly crossed together, that one is inclined at first sight, to abandon all hope of wedging his way through them. Its termination brought us to the foot of the great chain of mountains. It occupied us nearly another day to ascend this by a narrow winding path, which is shaded by one of finest forests in Oregon. Towards sun- set we reached the top, \/here we pitched our camp, within a few paces of one of those im- mense snow masses, that perpetually shroud this lofty chain. Here we enjoyed a most magnificent view — the horizon for some hundred miles around presented a spectacle of surpass- ing granileur : as far as the eye could reach, a long succession of mountains, towering cliff's. ^M OREGON 1 SUION S. 271 [g abode, us. The 1 only by t of some ig of the beholder pleasing forced a f forest, jk of the nches, so clined at iging his ought us tains. It ;end this laded by irds sun- ^hed our lose im- shroud a most hundred surpass- reach, a ig cliffs, and lofty pinnacles, exhibited their dazzling snow- capped summits to our astonished vision. The very silence of this vast wilderness strikes the beholder with feelings of deep sublimity ; n ot even a breeze stirred to break the charm of this enchanting view. I shall never forget the splendor of the scene we witnessed, as the last rays of the setting sun were throwing their full lustre upon the myriads of pinnacles that ranged far away towards the distant horizon. The descent on the eastern side of this moun- tain is less abrupt, presenting slopes of rich verdure, adorned with a great variety of plants and flowers. This descent also occupied us an entire day. We next arrived at a forest, a twin-sister, if I may be allowed the expression, of the one I have just described. Here the river St. Francis Regis meanders through in- numerable hoary cedars, pine trees, and an im- penetrable thicket of bushes of every species. With the happiest recollections, we finally en- camped on the banks of the St. Mary's river, in the Flat-Head valley — the nursery of our first missionary operations in the Far West. In my next, I propose giving you some de- tails of the present condition of our first chil- dren in God, the good and deserving Flat- N'iin 272 OREO ON MISSIONS. Heads. I recommend myself to God in your prayers. I remain, with profound respect and esteem , reverend and dear Father, your very humble servant, and brother in Christ, P. J. DE SMET, S. J. 1 ,s -3 >¥ 1 k ^od in your md esteem, Jry humble ST, S. J. m '1 m m I {^ ' ft i W^ I t/ ii 4 't f»^ .tt' INSULA on KKI) h'KATMKH. OWa/ fV//f/'a/u/ /j/zTr/ uft/orti/ f/i( Flat -/isae/jf . i OREGON MISSIONS. 273 No. XXII. LETTER OF THE REV. FATHER POINT, S. J. LtsV MISSIONARY IN OREGON. « e H. Village of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, , 1845. I LEARN by letters from Europe, that you take a lively interest in our dear missions. FVom this, I conclude that you will be very glad to learn some of those things which are passing amongst us. I take the more pleasure, because I can detail what my own eyes have witnessed, and because I can give a new proof of a truth, which you love to extend, viz., that it is to their devotion to the Sacred Heart of Jesus, that the pastors of souls are indebted for the consola- tions they enjoy : this will explain the wonders of mercy of which they are witnesses. You know already the history of the Flat- Heads ; truly their conversion is the result of a wonderful outflowing of the riches of grace ; but T do not hesitate to sav, that the conversion %-'\ 1. W i ■■' i - 274 OREGON MI8SION8. - .J, •» t I Si U f. ■ '-!! of the Pointed-Hearts is a still more striking indication of God's love to man. What were these savfiges less than a quarter of a century ago ? They had hearts so hard, that if their first visiters have undertaken to give a true description of them, they could not find an ex- pression more just, than is the singular name which they bear to this day. Their knowledge was so limited, that, giving themselves up to the worship of animals they had no idea of the true God nor of their soul, much less of a future life ; finally they were a race of men, so degene- rate that they had barely two or three notions of the whole natural law, and almost all were strangers to it in practice. What a different aspect they now present ! I will not say that they are perfect : that would be an exaggeration even in the eyes of persons little versed in the knowledge of the human heart. Everybody knows, that people who are converted, always retain something of their primitive character, and that the defects of education are not corrected except by a long course of years ; but I say to the glory of Him, who can change the hardest rocks into children of Abraham, that, at this dsiy fOur Pointed-Hearts are true believers. ivit »> OREGON MISSIONS. 275 c striking Vhat were ' a century at if their ive a true Snd an ex- ular name knowledge 3lves up to idea of the of a future so degene- iree notions st all were present ! 1 hat would of persons he human le who are of their defects of by a long Iry of Him, Ito children ied'Hearts M It is only two years since the cross was planted on their soil, and all, with a very few excep- tions have made their first communion. About fifteen years ago, several missic naries begged to be employed among the savages. A new doctrine was soon spread among the Pointed-IIearts, telling them that there is but one God, who has, beyond the earth we see, two things which we do not see : — a place for the good, and a place for the bad ; that the Son of God, in all respects like his Father, seeing all men running in the bad road, came down from Heaven to put them in the right way ; but that in order to efl^t'ct this, it was necessary for him to die upon a cross. One evening, all the fami- lies, who were dispersed in difi'erent directions, for fishing, for hunting, and gathering roots, as- sembled upon the ground of an old chief called Ignatius, to see the author of this news. Re- gardless of fatigue, they prolonged their sitting to the silence of the night, and listened to all the details of the glorious message. God is great — Jesus Christ is good : — two truths the admission of which seemed to be the result of the first sitting : was this, indeed, the ease ? Not so much, perhaps, as would have been desirable : for before the families separat- F'i^»« I — .^ I 276 OREGON MISSIONS. (! 6 '"» ( ■a'''- ■ (^ ed, Heaven sent a scourge, which struck with death a great number of them. At the moment it raged with the greatest violence, one of the dying — since named Stephen — heard a voice from above, which said : " Cast down thy idols ; adore Jesus Christ, and thou shalt be cured." The dying man believed the word, and was cured. He went about the camp and related what had taken place : all the sick who heard him imitated his example, and recovered their health. I have this fact from the mouth of the savage who heard the voice from heaven, and the same has been confirmed by eye-witnesses, who could say, " I, myself, have been the object of that wonder, and my eyes have seen the mountain at the foot of which the idols were cast down." The savage takes little notice of an event which does not strike him in a sensible man- ner; but what I have related was marked by two such peculiar characters, that it left traces in the memory of all. However, neither con- stancy nor reflection is to be found in the sa- vage. After some years of fidelity to the impres- sions received, the greater part returned to their former idolatry. This retrograde movement was accelerated by the medicine-men — a kind OREGON MISSIONS. 277 uck with 3 moment ne of the [ a voice thy idols; be cured." and was nd related vho heard ered their ►uth of the iaveii, and -witnesses, the object ! seen the idols were an event sible man- marked by left traces either con- in the sji- he impres- ned to their movement en — a kind of charlatans, who set themselves up for physi- cians and prophets, and pretend to perform wonderful things, especially, to cure the sick by their skill and supernatural power. At the word of one of the chiefs, who, probably, had not ceased to be an idolater, the men convoked an assembly of those who wen; called believers, in which it was resolved to return to their an- cient practices ; and, from that moment, the animals of the country, now become again disine, re-entered into possession of their an- cient honors. The mass of the tribe, had, indeed, no conlidence in th<'m ; but, either through fear of the medicine-men, or by natural curiosity, they took part, at least by their pre- sence, in the sacrilegious worship paid to them. Happily, choice souls were always among them to intercede with Heaven for their diduded brethren ; I know many, who, from the time in which God was pleased to manifest himself among them, have not the least faults upon their consciences, with which to reproach them* selves, Such was pretty nearly the condition of the people when Providence sent among them the llev. Father De Smet, His visit, the circum- stances of which have been related elsewhere, 13 i n. r-, ... . • I! I l-WI ■ • 278 OREGON MISSIONS. disposed them so much in favor of the Black- govms, that it was determined I should be sent to their aid. Three months after, that is, at the close of the hunting expeditions of the autumn of 1842, I left St. Mary's to place the new con- verts under the protection of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. The same day I entered their territory, the first Friday of November, I made with three chiefs who came to seek me, the promised consecration, and on the first Friday of Decem- ber, in the midst of chants and prayers, the cross was raised on the borders of a lake, where the poor savages had united for fishing. Thanks be to God, we can say, that the miracu- lous draught of St. Peter was spiritually re- newed. For they spoke no more of their as- semblies of impostors, their diabolical visions, nor superstitious ceremonies, which had before been so common ; and most important of all, gambling, which had always occupied a great portion of their time, was two weeks after- wards, abandoned ; the conjugal bond, which for centuries, perhaps, had known among them neither unity nor indissolubility, was brought back to its primitive character. A beautilul sigh' was presented by the medicine-men them- % %mi OREGON MISSIONS. 279 B Black- he sent Is, at the autumn lew con- ed Heart tory, the ith three promised )f Decem- lyers, the f a lake, or fishing, le miracu- itually re- their as- \1 visions, lad before ant of all, d a great eks after- nd, which ong them s brought beautiful men them- selves, who with their own hands, did justice to the wretched instruments hell had used to deceive them. During the long nights of that period, it will not be necessary to tell how many sacri- fices were made of feathers, wolves* tails, stags' feet, deer's hoofs, wooden images, &c. Scarcely was the bad tree cut down and thrown into the fire, than a blessing on their temporal affairs was united to that of their spiritual. In one day three hundred deer be- came the prey of the hunters. The first days of spring, the reunion of the people at the place agreed on for the construc- tion of a village was more numerous than the first. It was formed upon the ancient plans in Paraguay, and each one, according to his strength and industry, contributed towards its construction. Trees were felled, roads opened, a church erected, and the public fields were sown ; and, thanks to the piety of our savages, Holy Week, Easter, Asr! .*!*' ;!«»-'' 280 OREGON MISSIONS. I-" » ,) H ■ struction, the storm only resulted in purifying the atmosphere. Towards the end of October, 1844, one hun- red families of the Pointed-Hearts reunited in one village. The sight of their little lodges around the house of God, brought to mind the touching idea of the pelican in the desert. Young and old united to make their first com- munion, or renew it. Many had already ac- quired a certain degree of instruction, but the greater portion, especially of the old, were far from being sufficiently instructed ; and the time the Black-gown had to prepare them before the great winter chase, was November and December, for the chase could not be put off, it is essential to the life of a savage. It was necessary, then, to hasten, and choose the shortest method of instructing them. Everybody knows the savage has the eye of a lynx, and never forgets what he has once seen ; therefore when he attaches any idea to a sensible sign, he can always recall it as soon as he sees the sign under his eyes ; thus thry have a wonderful facility in speaking by signs, and a great inclination to render their thoughts by images: upon this faculty I based my system of instruction. I made images, repre- 1 lurifying one hun- inited in e lodges to mind le desert, first com- eady ac- i, but the were far 1 the time ;m before mber and put off, it It was hoose the the eye of ; has once ny idea to it as soon thus they g by signs, ir thoughts based my ges, repre- OREGON MISSIONS. 5^81 senting what they ought to believe. Some of these represented the faults and vices they ought to shun, others the virtues they should practise. After this, with a little stick in my hand, I explained my representations, and tried to adapt myself to the understanding of all. The success of this method surpassed my ex- pectation : for, having made the most intelligent repeat what I had said, I had the pleasure to see that they lost nothing of what was essential, and immediately I formed classes for repetition. The first repetition was made immediately after the instruction ; the second in their lodges, the third by the chiefs in their harangues, and the fourth at the beginning of the next instruction. The plan was insisted upon, and rapid pro- gress made, not only in their instruction, but also in their morals. Those who exhorted joined to their exhortations the force of private example, so that the mass of the people seemed to be led on, by attraction. From the 9th of September to the time in which I write — a period of six months not one single fault, which can be called serious, so far as my knowledge extends, has been committed in the village of the Sacred Heart of Jesus ; and a great many, who reproached themselves wf ¥ f v" ♦ 0': 28'-i OREUON MISSIONS ^ ^•t/l; w*; \ a^ , [t:- -i- ■I'' with light failings, cease not to make public confession in terms of grief, which it would be desirable to see the greater culprits exhibit at the tribunal of penance. I h ive seen husbands come after their wives, and mothers after their daughters, not to excuse the accusations which they had made, but to acknowledge that their want of patience and humility were the cause of the failings of the others. It is worthy of remark that all the adults, who had not yet received baptism, and all who united to prepare for their first communion, not one was judged unworthy to receive the sacra- ments. Their simplicity, piety, charity, and especially their faith, were admirable. And truly all these virtues were necessary for these good old men, who, for the sake of learning their prayers, had to become the scholars of their children, and for the children to enable them to do violence to their natural vivacity, while they slowly communicated to their old parents and grand-parents, a part of what they had learned ; and the chiefs would rise at the dawn of the day, and sometimes in the middle of the night, to exhort their people to weep over their sins. I have spoken of their faith. How pure and OREGON MISSIONS. 283 public ould be hibit at usbands ter their IS which lat their be cause e adults, [all who nion, not he sacra- rity, and le. And for these learning jholars of to enable vivacity, their old vhat they se at the he middle weep over pure and above all, how confiding it was ! The first idea, neccessary to impress on their minds was, that the goodness of God is not less great than his power, and they were so convinced of it, that they begged God to perform miracles, as they would beg their daily bread. They were told, that the sacrament of extreme unction had the power not only to purify the soul, but to restore health to the body ; it did not occur to them to doubt of the one more than of the other. They have great faith in the sign of the cross. They are accustomed to make it at the begin- ning of their prayers, and of all their principal actions. Not satisfied with making it them- selves, their children can scarcely pronounce a word, before they teach them to articulate the words of the sign of the cross. I saw a father and mother bending over the cradle of an only son, who was about to die. They made their best efibrts to suggest to him fc make the sign of the cross, and the child having raised his little hand to his forehead, made the consoling sign and immediately expired. A woman, sitting near the grave of her only daughter, was conversing with her little boy, whom she had that day presented at the bap- tismal font. " See," said she, " my child, how ^f> fV 't-v 'I 284 OREGON MIHSIONS. happy it is to die after being baptized ! If you should die to-day, you would see again our little dementia." And the pious mother ex- hibited such a calmness in her tone of voice and countenance, that she seemed to have a foretaste of the happy abode of which she spoke. Our infant church presented the picture of the purest virtues, when the happy period' for which she sighed was approaching. The week preceding the celebration of the Immaculate Conception of the blessed Virgin Mary, was devoted to prepare the people for the reception of holy communion. The time, of course, did not admit of frequent instructions, long prayers and general confessions. The good Father Joset gave instructions. Their prayers were fervent, and experience had already taught them the necessity of true sorrow for past sins, which they exhibited in a lively manner at the con- fessional. I used all the exertions I could to prepare those whose understandings appeared more limited than the others; and their piety, calmness and perseverance, have put to flight all the fears which rested on my mind. The church was small ; it measured in length fifty feet, and in breadth twenty-four. It was indeed, I OREGON MISSIONS. 285 If you ain our her ex- of voice have a lich she icture of eriod* for he week maculate ary, was reception mrse, did g prayers Father ers were [ght them |ns, which the con- could to appeared ieir piety, It to flight Ld. The ngth fifty [as indeed, poor, but from every part of the wall and ceil- ing, were suspended rich festoons of leaves. While the stars were still shining in the firma- ment, the chant, Lauda Siorif was heard. But who sung that divine canticle ? The savages, who lately addressed their prayers only to the animals of their mountains. Go to the foot of the altar and see the new adorers, bowing their heads before the Eternal One. The representa- tion of the Sacred Heart of Jesus and of the Cross on which he expired, raised their thoughts to the abode of glory, and caused them to centre there all their affections. They approached the altar to receive holy communion with the greatest order and devotion. It was Father Joset who had happiness to distribute to them the bread of life, — a happiness, so much the more felt, as he had just arrived among them. Before they approached the holy table, he ad- dressed them a few words ; but the tender piety apparent in all at the moment of communicat- ing, made him fear to spoil the work of God by adding more words of his own, and he left them to their own devotion. We recited the usual prayers for the inten- tions of the Church, and closed the morning ser- 13* .:«r' • . ~f ^11 Wr j-'O ' s t. ■Hi ir, b »« /. .f 286 OREGON MISSIONS. vices by chanting again the Lauda Sion, The high mass was celebrated at ten o'clock. In the evening took place the renovation of the promises of baptism. The church was illuminated, at least as well as our poverty would permit. The sacrament of baptism was conferred on twelve adults. After a prepara- tory instruction, instead of the ordinary formu- las, which were a little difficult to be trans- lated into the Indian language, all of them, to show their constant fidelity, recited three acts of love to God. In hearing them, we remarked, that like the prince of the Apostles, they replied to the threefold enquiry of their Saviour. The holy sacrament was exposed. To the ex- pression of unanimous and forcible love, their looks of piety directed towards the altar, seemed to add: O beauty! always ancient, always new ! too late have we loved thee ; but we will love thee forever ! The benediction of the blessed sacrament followed, and closed that great and beautiful day, which had been so rich in every kind of spiritual gifts. It was with difficulty that these good souls left the place, which had, that day, been the witness of their prayers and promises. The Pointed-Hearts exhibited by their prayers, their canticles, and OR£U^N IMIUaiONS. 287 u The ition of ch was poverty sm was prepara- y formu- )e trans- them, to iree acts emarked, ly replied MT. The the ex- >ve, their tr, seemed , always ; but we on of the osed that been so It was s left the ivitness of ;ed-Hearts icles, and their holy conversations, a foretaste of heavenly joys. They often came to visit the Black- gowns. Some days, I was surrounded by these visitors. They all waited in profound silence, till I had finished my office. One of them then chanted the first verse of Lauda Sion, in which all the voices joined. Thus, it is a con- soling truth, that, at the extremities of the heathen world, as well as in the centre of civi- lization, the church puts forth a united effort for the conversion and salvation of mankind. I am, devotedly yours, in Christ, N. POINT. W^' 288 OREGOIf MISSIONS No. XXIII. A. M. D. G. \f Flat-Head Camp, Yellowstone River, September 6th, 1846. Rev. and Dear Father Provincial, — After an absence of about eighteen months, employed in visiting the various distant tribes, and extend- ing among them the kingdom of Christ, I re- turned to the nursery, so to speak, of our Apos- tolic labors in the Rocky Mountains. Judge of the delight I experienced, when I found the little log church, we built five years ago, about to be replaced by another which will bear com- parison with those in civilized countries, mate- rials, everything ready to commence erecting it, the moment they can procure some ropes to place the heavy timbers on the foundation. An- other agreeable surprise, however, yet awaited me ; a mill had been constructed, destined to contribute largely to the increasing wants of the surrounding country. It is contrived to dis- I' = (tone River, , 1846. A.fter an jloyed in i extend- ist, I re- )ur Apos- Judge of bund the go, about )ear com- ies, mate- recting it, ropes to ttion. An- it awaited estined to wants of ved to dis- ^ -jf-r ¥■ i I I. \ . i t I- r OREGON MISSIONS. 289 ^ chari^e the two-fold charitable object of feeding the hungry and sheltering the houseless. The flour mill grinds ten or twelve bushels in a day ; and the saw mill furnishes an abundant supply of plank, posts, etc., for the public and private building of the nation settled here. Indeed, the location stood much in need of so useful a con- cern. The soil yields abundant crops of wheat, oats and potatos — the rich prairie here is capable of supporting thousands of cattle. Two large rivulets, now almost useless, can, with a little labor, be made to irrigate the fields, gar- dens, and orchards of the village. The stock at present on this farm, consists of about forty head of cattle, a fast-increasing herd of hogs and a prolific progeny of domestic fowl. In addition to the mill, twelve log houses, of regu- lar construction, have been put up. Hence, you can form some idea of the temporal advan- tages enjoyed by the Flat-heads of St. Mary's village. St. Mary's, or Bitter-Root valley, is one of the finest in the mountains, presenting, throughout its whole extent of about two hundred miles, numerous grazing:, but few arable tracts of land. Irrigation, either by natural or artificial means, is absolutely necessary to the cultivation 290 OREG ON MISSIONS of the soil, in consequence of the long summer drought that prevails in this region, commenc- ing in April and ending only in October. This difficulty, however, if the country should be ever thickly settled, can be easily obviated, as the whole region is well supplied with numer- ous streams and rivulets. These remarks apply to the valleys contiguous to St. Mary's, the general aspect of them differing perhaps but slightly in regard to the heights of the moun- tains, the colossal dimensions of the rocks, or the vast extent of the plains. After what has been said in my former letters in relation to religion, little now remains that has a direct reference to it ; but you will learn with much pleasure, that the improvements made in the Flat-head village, afford the mis- sionary stationed there great facilities for prose- cuting successfully the grand object of his de- sires, viz., the eternal happiness of the poor benighted Indian tribes, placed beyond the reach of his immediate influence. The village is now the centre of attraction to all the neigh- boring, and many of the distant tribes. The missionary always avails himself of these occa- sional visits, to convey to them the glad tidings of salvation. Among the recent visitors were, g summer commenc- ber. This should be >viated, as ith numer- arks apply [ary's, the 5rhaps but the moun- i rocks, or mer letters mains that L will learn provements •d the mis- s for prose- : of his de- f the poor ^eyond the rhe village [ the neigh- ribes. The these occa- ^lad tidings iitors were, ... 'i.fei-::.r ir ■-X ■i » ') , t ' I \'. . ff i 1 \ . 'ill 1 II' % 1 :- ( * 1 ' ! • -2"J OREGON MISSIONS. 201 »^ti the great chief of the Snake Indians with his band of warriors ; the Banax and Nez-Perces, conducted by several of their chiefs, — even seve- ral bands of Black-Feet ; besides these, there were also, on their return from the great hunt, almost the whole tribe of the Pends-d'Oreilles, belonging to the station of St. Francis Borgia. These last in particular, the greater part of whom I baptized last year, may be said to rival the zeal of the Flat-Heads in the practice of their religious duties. After the festival of Easter, the abundant supply of provisions, in the granaries and cel- lars of the village, enabled the minister to invite all the visitors present to a feast, consisting of potatos, parsnips, turnips, beets, beans, peas, and a great variety of meats, of which the greater portion of the guests had never before tasted. Among the industrial products which are mainly owing to the skill and assiduity of their present pastor, Father Mengarini, I must not forget to mention a kind of sugar, extracted from the potato. Let us next turn to the improved condition of the people themselves. Polygamy — or rather a connection, if possible, still more loose — is now, thank God, entirely abolished among our newly- if ■■'( t' f<' '' w%> J' r>- o ^1.; » t- i' 292 OREGON MISSIONS. converted Indians; there is, consequently, an evident increase of population. The reckless abandonment of the helpless infant — ^the capri- cious discarding of wife and children — the wan- ton effusion of human blood — are no longer known amongst them. Our feelings are not outraged by the brutal practice, heretofore so commonly witnessed, of a father considering a horse a fair exchange for his daughter ; the justice of allowing the young Indian maiden to choose her future partner for life is now uni- versally allowed ; — the requisite care of their offspring is regarded in its proper light, as a Christian duty ; — attention is paid to the wants of the sick ; — changes of treatment, with the remedies administered according to our advice, have probably been the means, under Provi- dence, of rescuing many from premature death. The long-cherished vindictive feelings which so frequently led to depopulating wars, are now sup- planted by a Christian sense of justice, which, if unfortunately compelled to take up arms, does so only to repel unjust aggression or defend their inherent rights, but always with the fullest con- fidence in the protecting arm of Heaven. Indeed their unbounded confidence in the God of battle, is well rewarded ; a truth which the l OREGON MISSIONS. 293 tly, an eckless ; capri- le wan- longer aire not [)fore so lering a er; the aiden to ow uni- of their ;ht, as a le wants with the r advice, T Provi- re death, which so ow sup- which, if ms, does 'end their lest con- 5n. the God [hich the >. i enemies of the Flat-Heads invariably acknow- ledge. " The medicine of the Black-gowns," (an expression synonymous with the true religion,) " is," say they, " the strongest of all." Did time permit, I could adduce almost innumerable in- stances to confirm the belief universally enter- tained here, that Almighty God visibly protects them in the wars they are compelled to wage with the hostile tribes. A few of these, for the authenticity of which I can vouch, may suffice for the present. In 1840, when threatened by a formidable band of Black-Feet, amounting to nearly eight hundred warriors, the Flat-Heads and Pends- d'Oreilles, scarcely numbering sixty, betook themselves to prayer, imploring the aid of Hea- ven, which alone could save them in the un- equal contest. Confident of success, they rose from their knees in the presence of their ene- emies, and engaged the overwhelming odds against them. The battle lasted five days. The Black-Feet were defeated, leaving eighty warriors dead upon the field ; while the Flat- Heads and Pends-d' Oreilles sustained a loss of only one man ; who, however, survived the battle four months, and had the happiness of receiving baptism the day before his death. , I'', m ^ m. Ik I ■' i :■ t >• Mil 294 UREUON MISSIONS. In 1842, four Pends-d'Oreilles and a Pointed Heart were met and immediately attacked by a party of Black-Feet. At the first onset, the Black-Feet had to deplore the loss of their chief. Aroused by the noise of the musketry, the camp of the Pends-d'Oreilles rushed to the assistance of their companions, and without los- ing a single man, completely routed the enemy. Their escape is the more remarkable, as rush- ing into the entrenchments of the Black-Feet, they received a volley of shot pou jd in upon them by the enemy. The Flat-Heads were again attacked, during the winter hunt of 1845, by a party of the Banax, which, though outnumbering them nearly three times, they soon put to flight, with the loss of three of the Banax party. The Flat-Heads ac- knowledge that the Banax are the bravest of their enemies ; yet this did not deter them, though but seven in number, from fighting a whole village of the latter, that had rashly vio- lated the rights of hospitality. During the summer hunt of the same year, the united camp of Flat-Heads and Pends-d'O- reilles, when theatened, hesitated not a moment to engage with a band of Black-Feet four times their number. The latter, fearing the " medi- jf if' OREGON MISSIONS. 295 ^ointed edbya let, the if their dsketry, d to the lOUt los- 5 enemy, as rush- ,ck-Feet, in upon d, during lc Banax, trly three e loss of leads ac- ravest of ;er them, ghting a ,shly vio- \me year, fends-d'O- moment four times le ** medi- cine of the Black-gowns," skulked around their enemies, avoiding an open fight. The former perceiving this, pretended flight 'n order to draw the Black-Feet ' ito the open plain: the snare succeeded; a ,d the Flat-Heads and Pends-d'O- reilles suddenly wheeling, attacked and repulsed them with considerable loss, driving the enemy before them in hot pursuit, as they would a herd of buffaloes. Twenty-three Black-Feet war- riors lay dead on the field, after the engage- ment, while the Pends-d'Oreilles lost but three, and the Flat-Heads only one. I shall close these sketches of Indian warfare, so remarkably evincing, as they do, the special protection of Heaven, with an account of an en- gagement which, as it was the occasion of my first interview with the Black-Feet, and by its consequences contributed much towards my fa- vourable reception among them, will not I trust, prove entirely devoid of interest, if given a little more in detail. In 1846, while engaged in one of these hunt- ing excursions, the camp of the Flat-Heads was reinforced by thirty lodges of the Nez-perces, and a dozen lodges of the Black-Feet at their own .solicitation. The Flat-Heads encamped in the neighbourhood of the Crows, purposely to renew If! m 4-'::-r'-' 4 ill ■V ■ ^■^^^9 296 OREGON MISSIONS. the terms of peace, if the latter felt so disposed. The Crows, perceiving in the united camp, the Nez-Perces and Black-Feet, with whom they were at war, and knowing their own superior- ity both in numbers and bodily strength, (they are the most robust of the Indian tribes) rushed into it like a torrent, evidently more anxious to provoke a contest than to make overtures of peace. The calm remonstrances of the Flat- Heads, and the wise admonitions of their own chief, were lost upon the now almost infuriated mutinous band of the Crows. If the threatened outbreak had occurred at that moment, it is probable that the whole united camp would have been massacred in the hand-fight, for which evidently the Crows came prepared, with loaded guns and other destruc- tive weapons, \ hile the Flat-Heads and the c hers were totally unprovided. At this critical juncture, fortunately, indeed I may say pro- videntially, my interpreter Gabriel, and a Pend- d'Oreille named Charles, forced their way breath- less into the disordered camp, and announced the arrival of the Black-gown who had visited them four years ago. The alarming scene they witnessed was indeed what they had expected for as we travelled to overtake the Flat-Head OREGON M 19 t I Oh. a. 297 sposed. mp, the n they aperior- h, (they ) rushed xious to tures of he Flat- leir own ifuriated curred at le whole •ed in the >ws came destruc- and the is critical say pro- d a Pend- ,y breath- ■nnounced id visited cene they expected 'lat-Head <*\v cks camp at the place designed )r thei inter with the Crows, we perceived from thr of their daily encampments, that some 1 ick Feet and Pends-d'Oreilles were with the Fhit- Heads ; we accordingly feared a collision would result from the interview. I therefore despatch- ed with all possible speed, Gabriel and Charles, to announce my arrival. Well did they execute the commission — they rode almost at full gallop during a whole day and night, performing in this short period a journey which occupied the camp fourteen days. This intelligence roused the Crow chiefs to an energetic exercise of their authority. They now seized the first missiles at hand, and enforced the weight of their argu- ments upon their mutinous subjects, as long as there was left in the united camp the back of a Crow on which to inflict punishment. This forced separation, though it may have checked the present ebullition, could not be of long du- ration. It needed but a spark to rekindle their hostile dispositions into open war. The next day, as if to provoke a rupture, the disaff'ected Crows stole thirty horses from the Flat-Heads. Two innocent persons were unfortunately charged with the crime, and punished. The mis- take being discovered, the amende honorable was -»? I: kh ",■■ eft V 298 OREGON MISS IONS made, but to no purpose. The Flat-Heads, aware of their dangerous position, employed the interval in fortifying their camp, stationing their women and children in a place of safety, and arming themselves for the contest. An im- mense cloud of dust in the neighborhood of the Crow camp at ten o'clock, announced the expected attack. On they came, with the im- petuosity of an avalanche, until within musket shot of the advanced guard of the allied camp, who had just risen to their feet to listen to a few words addressed them by their chief, Stiet- tietlotso, and to meet the foe. "My friends," said Moses, ( the name I gave him in baptism ) " if it be the will of God, we shall conquer — if it be not his will, let us humbly submit to what- ever it shall please his goodness to send us. Some of us must expect to fall in this contest : if there be any one here unprepared to die, let him retire ; in the meanwhile let us constantly keep Him in mind." He had scarcely finished speaking, when the fire of the enemy was re- turned by his band, with such terrible effect as to make them shift their mode of attack into another, extremely fatiguing to their horses. After the battle had raged for some time in this way, Victor, the grand chief of the Flat-Heads, I OREGON MISSIONS. 299 -Heads, )yed the ng their ety, and An im- d of the ced the the im- . musket 3d camp, ;ten to a lef, Stiet- friends," baptism ) kquer — if to what- send us. contest : o die, let onstantly f finished T was re- de effect tack into r horses, le in this at-Heads, perceiving the embarrassed position of the ene- my, cried out: " Now, my men, mount your best horses, and charge them," The manoeuvre was successful. The Crows fled in great disorder, the Flat-Heads abandoning the pursuit only at sun-down, when they had driven the enemy two miles from their camp. Fourteen warriors of the Crows fell in the engagement, and nine were severely wounded, as we subsequently learned from three Black- Feet prisoners, who availed themselves of their capturers' defeat to recover their liberty. On the part of the allied camp, only one was killed, the son of a Nez-Perce chief, who fell by the hand of a Crow chief, in so cowardly a manner, that the indignation of the allied camp was at once raised into immediate action — it was in fact, the first shot fired and the first blood drawn on either side ; the boy was yet quite a child. Besides this loss, though the engage- ment lasted for several hours, only three were wounded, two of them so slightly that by appli- cation of the remedies I brought with me, they recovered in a short time ; the third died a few days after my arrival in the camp. This defeat was the more mortifying to the Crows, as they had been continually boasting Hf ^ , wv- -'^ mr? ' -^ V ' ' <■ l ' ■ k ■■ •'■ V • \ i ,'« ... , r t s 1* 300 OREGON MISSIONS. of their superior prowess in war, and taunting their enemies with the most insulting, opprobri- ous epithets. They had besides, forcibly and most unjustly drawn on the engagement. Indeed, I look upon the miraculous escape of our Christian warriors, in this fierce contest, as further evidence of the peculiar protection of Heaven ; especially when I consider the numer- ous instances of individual bravery, perhaps I should say reckless daring, displayed on the part of the allied camp. The son of a Flat- Head chief named Raphael, quite a youth, burn- ing to engage in the contest, requested his fa- ther to let him have his best horse. To this the father reluctantly consented, as the boy had been rather weak from sickness. When mount- ed, off he bounded like an arrow from the bow, and the superior mettle of his steed soon brought him close upon the heels of a large Crow chief, who, turning his head round to notice his pur- suer, pulled up his horse to punish the temerity of the boy, at the same time bending to escape the arrow then levelled at him. The boy must have shot the arrow with enormous force, for it entered under the lower left rib, the barb pass- ing out under the right shoulder, leaving noth- ing but the feathers to be seen where it entered. 1 OREGON MISSIONS. 301 taunting )pprobri- ;ibly and It. iscape of } contest, tection of le numer- perhaps I d on the ►f a Flat- »uth, burn- ed his fa- ^0 this the 5 boy had len mount- n the bow, n brought row chief, e his pur- e temerity to escape boy must brce, for it |barb pass- ving noth- it entered. The chief fell dead. In an instant a volley was poured in upon the boy — his horse fell perfectly riddled, with the rider under him. — He was stunned by the fall, and lay to all appearance dead. According to the custom of the Indians, of inflicting a heavy blow upon the dead body of their enemy, he received while in this posi- tion, a severe stroke from each individual of the several bands of Crows that passed him. — He was taken up half dead, by his own tribe, when they passed in pursuit of the enemy. The ardour and impetuosity of the young men be- longing to the Flat-Head camp amazed the old- est warriors present, and formed the theme of universal admiration, as well as the dread of their enemies. Even the women of the Flat- Heads mingled in the fray. One, the mother of seven children, conducted her own sons into the battle-field. Having perceived that the horse of her eldest son was breaking down in a single combat with a Crow, she threw herself between the combatants, and with a knife put the Crow to flight. Another, a young woman perceiving that the quivers of her party were nearly exhausted, coolly collected, amidst a shower of arrows, those that lay scattered around her, and brought them to replenish the 14 p ' • 302 OREGON MISSIONS. I n 1'^ ■If' s nearly exhausted store. The celebrated Mary Quille, already distinguished in numerous bat- tles, pursued, with axe in hand, a Crow, and having failed to come up with him, returned, saying: "I thought that these great talkers were men. I was mistaken: it is not worth while even for women to attempt to chase them." The little party of Black-Feet, animated by a spirit of revenge, for the loss of half their tribe, massacred the preceding year by the Crows, and probably influenced by a feeling of their safety while they fought in company with the Flat-Head Christians, did signal service in the combat. In the meantime, Gabriel and Charles, fearing the threatened outbreak, immediately started back to meet me and hasten my arrival, my presence being considered necessary to prevent the effusion of blood. I arrived at the Flat- Head camp the day after the battle. I found everything ready to repel a second attack, should that be attempted. I immediately sent an ex- press to the Crows, to announce my arrival, and at the same time, to convey to them the great desire I had to see them, especially for the pur- pose of effecting a reconciliation between the OREGON MISSIONS. 303 . Mary as bat- rw, and turned, talkers worth ) chase ed by a ir tribe, Crows, of their vith the e in the , fearing started ival, my prevent be Flat- I found c, should an ex- ival, and he great the pur- veen the > contending parties. But it appeared that after having buried their dead, they retreated precip- itately ; so that no account of their destination could b« had. My express told me that there must have been excessive grief in the camp of the Crows, as the usual marks of it could be traced in every direction, such as the dissevered joints of fingers, and the numerous stains of blood, caused by the wounds which the parents of the deceased inflict upon themselves on such occasions. Shortly after my arrival, the Black-Feet came in a body to my lodge, to express in a manner truly eloquent, their admiration of the Flat- Heads, with whom in future they desired to live on terms of the closest friendship. "To their prayers," said they, ** must this extraordinary vic- tory be attributed. While the battle lasted, we saw their old men, their women, and children, on their knees, imploring the aid of Heaven ; the Flat-Heads did not lose a single man — one only fell, a young Nez-Perce, and another mor- tally wounded. But the Nez-Perces did not pray. We prayed morning and evening with the Flat-Heads, and heard the instructions of the chiefs." They then begged of me in their own affecting way, to take pity on them and be *>, v I" 'fL .■ "M 304 OREGON MISSIONS. charitable to them: they now determined to hear the words of the Great Manitou of the whites, and to follow the course which the Re- deemer had marked out on earth. Having ad- dressed them on the nature of the life they had proposed to adopt, they all without excep- tion presented their children for baptism, to the number of eighty. The day after this sacred ceremony, they call- ed on me, requesting to be allowed to express in their own way, the excess of joy which they felt on account of this two-fold victory. On return- ing from the late field of battle, the warriors, at the head of whom was a young chief, chanted songs of triumph, accompanied with the beating of drums ; at each beat, they sent forth a wild and piercing shout ; then followed the song, and so on alternately ; — wild as the music was, it was not without harmony. It continued thus, during almost the whole of our route. We marched along the right bjink of the Yellow- Stone River, having on our left a chain of mountains resembling those old portals to which history has given the name of " ancient chiv- alry." We had scarcely arrived at the encamp- ment, when the Black-Feet commenced, under the shade of a beautiful cluster of pines, their r1 4 ■ 'x OREGON MISSIONS. 305 ned to of the he Re- ing ad- fe they excep- , to the ey call- press in hey felt return- riors, at chanted beating a wild ng, and was, it id thus, e. We if^ellow- lain of ) which it chiv- ncamp- , under s, their arrangements for a dance, insisting, at the same time, upon showing the Black-gowns how high- ly they valued their presence among them, and how gratified they would be to have them wit- ness this display. There was, indeed, nothing in it that could give occasion to offended modesty to turn aside and blush. I need not tell you it was not the polka, the waltz, or any thing resembling the dances of modern civilized life. The women alone figure in it, old and young ; from the youngest child capable of walking, to the oldest matron present. Among them I have seen several old women upwards of eighty years, whose feeble limbs required the aid of a staflT in their movements through the dance. Almost all appeared in the best costume of the warriors, which, however, was worn over their own dress, a sort of tunic they al- ways wear, and which contributed also not a little to the modesty of their appearance. Some carried the arms that had done most execu- tion in battle, but the greater part held a green bough in the hand. In proportion as the dresses increase in singularity, the colors in variety, and the jingling of the bells in sound, in the same degree is the effect upon the rude spectator heightened. The whole figure is surmounted by N. ^ li, J* 306 OREGON MISSIONS. a casket of plumes, which by the regular move- ments of the individual is made to harmonize with the song, and seems to add much graceful- ness to the whole scene. To lose nothing of so grand a spectacle, the Indians mount their horses, or climb the neighboring trees. The dance itself consists of a little jump, more or less lively, according to the beat of the drum. This is beaten only by the men, and all unite in the song. To break the monotony, or lend some new interest to the scene, occasionally a sudden, piercing scream is added. If the dance lan- guishes, haranguers and those most skilful in grimaces, come to its aid. As in jumping the dancers tend towards a common centre, it often happens that the ranks become too close, then they fall back in good order to form a large circle, and commence anew in better style. After the dance, followed the presentation of the calumet. It is borne by the wife of the chief, accompanied by two other women, on the breast of one of whom rests the head of the pipe, and upon that of the other, the stem hand- somely adorned with feathers. The most dis- tinguished personage of the nation precedes the calumet bearers, and conducts them around the circle of dancers. The object, probably of the «i r OREGON MISSIONS. 307 last part of the ceremony, the termination of the rejoicings, is to indicate, that the best fruit of the victory they celebrate is the peace which follows. To establish this peace upon a better foundation, is a thought constantly uppermost in my mind. May God grant that our efforts to plant the crop of peace among these wild children of the forest, be not unavailing; I earnestly recommend these poor souls to the prayers of the faithful. Having thus, more fully perhaps than the limits of a single letter would seem to justify, redeemed the promise given in my last, of re- counting some of the advantages, spiritual and temporal, which the Flat-Heads enjoy, it may now be proper to resume the course of events up to the present date. On the 16th of August, we left St. Mary's by a mountain gap, called the ** Devil's gate," a name which it has probably received from the fact of its forming the prin- cipal entrance of the marauding parties of the Black-Feet. We encamped the first night, at the foot of the Black-Foot forks. Innumerable rivulets, and several beautiful lakes contribute largely to this river. Towards its head, to the north-east, there is an easy pass for cars and wagons. The valley we ascended, is watered m ■I »! ^ ;.i 309 OREGON MISSIONS. M by a beautiful stream called the Cart River. It was through this valley we wound our way in former days, with all our baggage, to the spot where St. Mary's now stands. We cross- ed the mountains in the vicinity of the Arrow- stone fork, another easy pass, and descended a tributary of the Jefferson as far as its outlet, through rather a wild, broken, and mountainous country, with here and there an extensive, open plain, the ordinary resort of innumer- able herds of buffalo. The seventh day found Qs encamped in the immense plain through which the forks of the Missouri diverge, ascend- ing to the source at the very top of the main chain of the Rocky Mountains. In travelling through these wilds, great care is to be had in order to avoid the sudden attack of some of those straggling war-parties that infest this neighborhood purposely to search for scalps, plunder, and the fame of some daring exploit. We halted every evening for a few hours, to take a bite, as the trapper would say, and to give some food and rest to our animals. When it was quite dark, we would kindle a brisk fire as if to last until morning ; then under cover of the night, proceed on our journey for about ten miles, to some unsuspected place, thus eluding i i , * ^'\* ' OREGON MISSIONS. 309 er. It vay in ;o the cross- Vrrow- sended outlet, ainous ensive, lumer- r found brougb iscend- 3 main veiling had ill )me of this scalps, xploit. urs, to and to When sk fire )ver of ut ten luding our enemies, should any have followed in our track, or be lurking in the neighborhood, await- ing the midnight hour to execute their murder- ous designs. From the three forks we went easterly, crossing by an easy pass the mountain chain which separates the head waters of the Missouri from the Yellow-Stone River, a dis- tance of about forty miles. We followed in the track of the Flat-Head camp for several days, when I sent Gabriel, my interpreter, with a Pend-d'Oreille Indian in advance to discover what direction the camp had taken, and to bring back Speedy news regarding their movements ; and also to learn the dispositions of the Crows, whom I designed to visit. Four days later I was met by a few Flat-Heads on their way to find me, when I was apprised of the treachery of the Crows, and the severe chastisement they had so deservedly received. I travelled the whole of that night, and arrived next day in the allied camp, as I have already informed you. Having failed to obtain the desired interview with the Crows, our attention will be now turn- ed towards the Black-Feet, with whose favor- able disposition to receive the gospel you are already acquainted. The result of this deter- mination will form the subject of my next 14* 1> ■a l,^mrr' ^, n .} ft Mr' I 14. m^^^ 310 OREGON MISSIONS. letter. I recommend myself to God in your prayers. I remain, with sentiments of profound respect and esteem, reverend, dear father, your very humble servant and brother in Christ. P. J. DE SMET, S.J. Ml * mi m4 l!itf r? is '■' v: t.' ..f i'.''^' ?*\".. OREGON MISSIONS. 311 No. XXIV. A. M. D. G. St. Louis Uuiversity, January Ist, 1847. Very Rev. and Dear Father Provincial, — You are already acquainted with our determination to accompany the Black-Feet in returning to their country. In the sequel of this letter you will learn, with pleasure, how far Almighty God has blessed our humble efforts in carrying this resolution into effect. After the battle, described in my letter from the Yellow-Stone camp, the Crows, it appears, fled to the Wind River Mountains, determined, however, to avenge themselves on the Black-Feet, whom they now designed to follow into their own country. The latter, probably through fear of this assault, resolved to remain with the Flat- Head camp, until it reached the head waters of the Muscle-shell River. In leaving the Yellow- Stone our direction lay towards the north. M ■r^' El Vi 312 OREGON MISSIONS. ,^ rr', • 1* i through a broken and undulating, dry and woodless country, destitute of any water fit to drink — stagnant pools of brackish water being the only kind found here to satiate the thirst. Only a few straggling bulls were seen or killed, scarcely sufficient, indeed, to supply the wants of our numerous camp. The gretit variety of matter incidental to this journey with the united Indian camp, will appear, perhaps, more satis^ factory if given in the same order in which it was entered in my diary ; I therefore present you with an extract from it : — 8th Sept., 1846. The elements of discord ex- isting between the Nez-Perces and Black-Feet, there is every appearance of an open rupture. The Nez-Perces being evidently in the wrong, the Flat-Heads, following our example, en- deavor to convince them of the impropriety of their conduct ; but to no purpose, ihe principal men among them refusing, for the second time, Lo smoke the calumet of peace. 9th. Towards night a touching incident oc- curred in our lodge. A Nez-Perce chief, who declares himself our friend, entered, accompa- nied by three Black-Feet, a warrior, an inter- preter, and a young man about twenty years of age. This youth, when about one year old, lost ,4. I .■t OREGON MISSIONS. 313 ^ and fit to being thirst. killed, wants iety of united sati&- lich it ►resent )rd ex- i-Feet, ipture. wrong, en- iety of ncipal I time, jnt oc- f, who jompa- L inter- ears of Id, lost both his parents ; his mother, a captive among the Black-Feet, died the first days of her cap- tivity ; his father, whose country is far distant from the Black-Feet, is altogether lost to him. The poor orphan became the adopted child of a Black-Foot woman, who brought him up as she would her own offspring. The adopted son grew up, imbibing all the notions and customs of his new friends, knowing no other relations than those around him. To-day, the woman whom he believed to be his real Mother, de- clared to him that she was not ; and that his father, whom he had not seen since he was one year old, was now sitting beside him, " Who is my father ? " he anxiously enquired. " Thers," said the woman, pointing to the Nez-Perce chief, who entered the lodge with him. The doubts of the father were soon removed, as he hastily stripped the youth's garments from his back, and there discovered the mark of a burn received in the parental lodge while yet an infant. The sudden burst of feeling elicited from these chil- dren of nature at this unexpected meeting, can be better imagined than described. The chief has no grown children, he is therefore the more eloquent in endeavoring to persuade his son to return to his native country, presenting him, at .? • ■ X I, if ■ • J ■ 314 OREGON MISSIONS. the same time, with one of the best and most beautiful of his steeds. I joined to the entrea- ties of the father, the strongest motives I could urge. The son, whose heart is divided between nature and grace, begged to be allowed to bid farewell to the companions and friends of his youth, who were now absent-^— he could not, he declared, thus abruptly leave her who, with motherly care and anxiety, had watched over him so many years, and whom he had always so tenderly loved, and looked upon as his mother. " Now that the Black-gowns are with us," he said, " I desire to be of the happy number of those who are about to introduce them to my friends, and to listen to the words of the Great Spirit, whom they have come to announce. After that, but not before, shall I follow my father." 10th. The Nez-Perc6s announce their deter- mination of leaving the united camp. The Flat- Heads, who dread more the presence of a friend capable of injuring their souls, than that of an enemy who can only hurt the body, are exces- sively rejoiced at this announcement. The Black-Feet also are highly pleased to see them go. The separation took place about 8 o'clock ; but they had gone only a short distance from the OREGON MISSIONS. 315 camp, when, fearing an attack from the Crows, they rejoined the main body, determined to re- main as long as the great hunt shall last. To avoid the outbreak, evidently threatened by the ill-will of the Nez-Perces, the Black-Feet-have resolved to leave the camp on the morrow. This day I baptized a Nez-Perces, who had been shot in the late battle with the Crows — he can- not survive much longer. 11th. Farewell to the Flat-Heads. All came to shake hands with us, the grief of their hearts was depicted in their countenances ; we all per- ceived how deeply they felt the separation. A great number of their cavaliers accompany us for a considerable distance ; six go as far as our encampment, not less than twenty-five miles. Our course lay through an extensive level plain, at the very base of the Muscle-shell moun- tains. These rise abruptly from the plain around, resembling broken, elevated islands in the midst of the ocean, and their tops tufted with a heavy growth of cedar and pine. While admiring the singular appearance of the scenery, my attention is called off to a very distressing accident. An old Indian is seen falling from his horse, receiving in the fall a severe wound be- tween his eyes ; he remains senseless, all efforts 316 OREGON MISSIONS. VU Wl^. if .^ S to revive him are fruitless. It was the old Black-Foot chief, Nicholas, whom I baptized five years ago ; he acted, ever since, the part of a most effective missioiiary, in preparing the way for the introduction of the gospel among his tribe. To-day he entered what he called his own country, chanting hymns of praise and thanksgiving in the happy anticipation of soon presenting us to his brethren. He dies! not even a sigh escapes him. Oh, how profound are the designs of God. Happily he leaves a son worthy of so excellent a sire. His attach- ment to religion equals that of his father. Having resided several years &.mong the Flat- Heads, he has acquired a perfect knowledge of their language — acting in the capacity of inter- preter, he has already rendered me considerable assistance. Notwithstanding his great grief, he performs the last sad offices near the tomb of his father with the composure and firmness of a Christian. It is customary among the Black- Feet to express their grief by wailings and lacerations of the body^ calculated only to af- flict those around, though intended b^'^them as a mark of respect towards the lamented dead. The son of Nicholas, himself a chief and a great brave, knowing the Christian practice, V was the old i I baptized e, the part of peparing the >spel among he called his praise and ition of soon [e dies ! not w profound be leaves a His attach- his father, ig the Flat- lowledge of ity of inter- onsiderable !at grief, he he tomb of mness of a the Black- ilings and only to af- )y*them as ited dead, ef and a practice, im'' •/f'ii *v ■ ' r « i ■' : / ^ • :■ . ,r ' • lA •■\ li> 1 '4 r. y. OREGON MISSIONS. 317 fc •J. passes the night in prayer, with his wife and children, near the funeral couch of his father. His friends and brother, Pegans (pagan in name and in fact), would now and then gather around him, and kneeling beside the mourner, pour forth, Christian-like, many a pious ejaculation on behalf of their deceased chieftain. The re- mains of the venerable chief were placed in the grave by the hands of his own son, and over his tomb the emblem of salvation was raised — the cross of the Saviour, whose words were now for the first time announced to the lonely tribes of this long-benighted wilderness. At the very moment the last prayers of the funeral service were uttered, " May he rest in peace," a busy stir breaks the death-like silence of the surround- ing crowd of Indians. A Flat-Head approached in full gallop, announcing the pleasing intelli- gence that two Black-Feet had reached their camp, and informed them that the tribe of Nicholas was within two days march of us. 12th. The very evening of the day on which Nicholas was interred, immense herds of buflalo are seen in the neighborhood of the camp. All are preparing for the chase — hunters throwing the lasso over their buffalo horses, already prancing and capering for a race — all ready to '■S"^' 15 ■' 318 OREGON MISSIONS. ►.a ttfJ start ; but before they separate, they halt for a moment, and, in imitation of the Flat-Heads, all are seen on their knees to beg of Almighty God their daily bread ; when again mounted, off they bound at full speed, each for one, two, or three fat cows, according to the strength of his favor- ite steed. The supper was abundant in every lodge, regiments of steaks were paraded before all the fires. My fire was encircled with tongues, or other dainty dishes reserved for the Black- gown ; and all who visited our lodge were of course invited to partake of the superabundant supply. Among my visitors, one in particular distinguished himself by his originality and good sense — his words were accompanied with ex- pressive signs, which rendered his conversation very agreeable ; he related to me what he ob- served while in the Flat-Head camp : — " When we first arrived," said he, " we had abundance of provisions with us, while the Flat-Heads and Nez-Perc6s were fasting ; we were visited, and all partook of what we had. The Flat-Head differed from the Nez-Perces ; the former prayed before he ate, the latter did not. On the Lord's- day, the Flat-Heads remained quiet in the lodges, they frequently prayed, and spoke to us words of the Great Spirit to make us good ; but r halt for a -Heads, all nighty God ;ed, off they ro, or three >f his favor- mt in every aded before ith tongues, the Black- dge were of perabundant in particular lity and good ed with ex- 3onversation what he ob- p : — i'' When abundance it-Heads and visited, and 5 Flat-Head irmer prayed n the Lord's- uiet in the spoke to us us good ; but ?5 r a CO 0C *M OREGON MISSIONS. 319 the Nez-Perc6s, painted, and proud of their feathers, were seen going here and there, more for evil than good, without reserve, before our young people. But then came the battle with the Crows, and the Nez-Perces, though the least brave of us all, and the least exposed, have had to weep over the loss of one pf their men, and another is dying of his wounds. This made me believe the words I had heard the Flat-Head say, * that the Great Spirit is good to the good, but that he can find the wicked at pleasure to punish them as they may deserve.* " The wonderful success of the Flat-Heads in the different wars they have been compelled to wage, has confirmed their enemies in the per- suasion entertained for some years, that the medicine of the Black-gowns is stronger than their own. Two Indians of the Pegan camp have just arrived, apprising us of their approach. 13th. Sunday. — Wr are obliged to move camp ; — every dry stick had been burned where we passed the night, and the rain has rendered the only other substitute for fuel, buffalo dung, unfit for use ; — the rain which was falling as we travelled, changed into sleet and hail. After a long day's march we encamp for the night, in a beautiful cotton grove, on the margin of the Judith river. 320 OREGON MISSIONS. '-.J >■»! !V f. The bad weather prevented the re-union of the two camps ; it will be so much the more re- markable, as to-morrow will be the feast of the Exaltation of the Cross. The chief enquires, if it would please us to see the Black-Feet mani- fest their joy in their own way, that is, by paint- ing, singing and dancing ; the answer was : " Do the best you can to show your friends that you are pleased." We learn by an express, just arrived, that the Big Lake, the great chief of the Pegans, harangued his people, exhorting them to behave orderly, and to listen with attention to all that the Fathers would say to them. He is accompanied by the great Tail-Bearer, a kind of orator, or aid-de-camp to the chief. His tail, composed of buffalo and horse-hair, is about seven or eight feet long, and instead of wearing it behind, according to the usual fashion, it is fastened above his forehead, and there formed into a spiral coil, resembling a rhinoceros' horn. Such a tail, among the Black-Feet, is a mark of great distinction and bravery — in all probability, the longer the tail, the braver the person. 14th. An agreeable disappointment. The Flat-Head camp, from which we separated four days ago, is only about ten miles from us. They sent an invitation to the Big Lake, desiring, at the same time, to trade with him on friendly :• L OREGON MISSIONS. 321 s-union of J more re- ast of the Qquires, if 'eet mani- , by paint- ver was : Lends that press, just lief of the ting them ttention to n. He is •, a kind of His tail, is about f wearing ihion, it is re formed ;ros* horn, a mark of •obability, $on. nt. The rated four lis. They siring, at 1 friendly terms. Opinions are divided among the people of the Big Lake. The chief is for postponing the trade until the meeting with the Black- gowns takes place ; the Tail-Bearer gives the preference to trade. The chief's voice prevails. An Indian from the camp arrives about ten o'clock, to herald their approach ; all the horses are immediately saddled, and the two Black- gowns, at the head of a numerous band of cavaliers, forming one extensive line, in single file, proceed through a beautiful open plain, the air resounding with songs of triumphal joy. We are soon in sight of each other — a loud dis- charge from all the guns was the signal to dis- mount, when the Big-Lake and Tail-Bearer, fol- lowed by the whole tribe, walked up to give us a warm and affectionate shake of the hand. Smoking came next ; and after the friendly pipe had passed from mouth to mouth, and had made several rounds, they communicate to each other the news since parting. I made to them my preparatory address, to dispose their minds and hearts to listen with attention to the word of God. To this appeal they responded with a loud and cheerful expression of the satisfaction they felt in listening to the Black-gown. We had scarcely introduced our new friends into the >U I 'i. i >-■■ ^ r-?J v^''- I'u' ( « 1 ■4 ! ■■t ♦ t j; 4! ■^s ••ft! - ?| ~i; J' ~4 ' " " 322 OREGON MISSIONS. camp, before the Flat-Heads and Nez-Perc6s were seen approaching. Their meeting was still more joyful and cordial than the one we had just witnessed among the people of the Big- Lake. This is not astonishing, when you know them ; the savage is naturally reserved towards men he does not know. The candid, open ways of acting which distinguish our neophytes soon communicate themselves to the Black-Feet, and before the sun went down, Black-Feet, Flat- Heads, young and old, all show equal pleasure to find us, on such an occasion, in the midst of them. ^ After evening prayers were said in the Black- Foot and Flat-Head languages, I addressed to them a short discourse on the happy re-union and peaceful disposition that now existed be- tween the two nations. What a pleasing sight ! What a consoling triumph for religion, to behold those warriors, whose deep-scarred faces told of the many bloody battles they had had together, — who could never meet before but with feelings of deadly enmity, thirsting for each other's blood, — now bending the knee before 1 heir com- mon Father in prayer, as with one heart, and listening with delight to the words of the peace- ful Redeemer. The chiefs and tlie principal i M- tt^y OREGON MISS IONS . 323 ^ez-Perc6s eting was le one we Df the Big- you know jd towards open ways lytes soon :-Feet, and Peet, Flat- il pleasure e midst of the Black- dressed to y re-union ixisted be- dng sight ! [, to behold ces told of ogether, — ;h feelings ih other's lieir com- leart, and he peace- principal men of both nations passed the evening in my lodge. Victor, the great Flat-Head chief, gains the good- will of all — charms everybody by the suavity and dignified simplicity of his manners. He relates some of his exploits, not indeed to appear conspicuous, as is evident from the modest aiid simple way in which he speaks, but to make them fully sensible of the protection which the Great Spirit extends to those who are devoted to His holy cause. The Black-Feet who were engaged in the late b ittle with the Crows, confirm the statements ol Victc ; , and re- count many edifying circumstances w iich they had witnessed in the Flat-H-.;d camp, rhe making of the sign of the cro i- ili; al bands of Indians, and kindly received. We proceeded, and encamped for the night near Knife river ; but our fire discovered our encamp- ment to a band of Indians. The discovery would have been fatal to us, had I not been fortunately recognized by them ; for they came armed for destruction, and took us by surprise. As soon as the two leaders knew who I was, they em- braced me affectionately ; our alarm was soon quieted, and we passed the evening very agree- ably in their company ; a good smoke, a cup of well sweetened coffee, a few humps and buffalo tongues, put them in a very good humour. Taey made me a solemn promise, that they would, iii future, never molest a white man. They were Arikaras. The next day we breakfasted at Fort Madison, with the good and kind-hearted Mr. Des Autel. Shortly after leaving this Fort, we pass- ed under a scalp attached to the end of a long pole, which projected over the river. This was probably an offering to th^ sun, to obtain either fresh scalps or a good hunt. We were hailed by a large village of Arikaras, encamped and fortified on a point of land well timbered. They treated us with great kindness, earnestly press- ing me to accept invitations to several buffalo feasts ; and as time did not admit of such delay. OREGON MISSIONS. 33& ived. We light near ir encamp- i^ery would brtunately armed for As soon 1, they em- was soon ery agree- , a cup of nd buffalo )ur. Taey would, iu rhey were ed at Fort 3d Mr. Des t, we pass- of a long This was ain either Te hailed tiped and d. They itly press- tl buffalo ch delay, their liberality fell little short of sinking the skiff, with the most dainty pieces of the hunt. Though late, we proceeded on our journey, principally, indeed, to avoid passing the night in feasting. Having had very favorable weather during the five following days, we reached, on the 26th, the encampment of Mr. Goule, an agent in the service of the American Fur Com- pany. I baptized several half-breed children at this place. Availing ourselves of the favorable weather the four following days, we kept on the river, drifting down every night, so that early on the 30th, we arrived at Fort Pierre. Mr. Picotte, of St. Louis, received us with the utmost cordi- ality and politeness. He forced me to remain three days under his hospitable roof. This de- lay enabled me to see a great number of Sioux, and baptize fifty-four children. Meanwhile Mr. Picotte ordered a large and conveniei. •. skiff to be mp'le, and stored it with ail sorts of provisions. In all my travels, I have never met one to surpass, perhaps to ec^ual, the overflow- ing kindness with which this gentleman confers a favor. I cannot sufRciently express my grati- tude to him. May God bless and reward him. And, indeed, I must here add, us a token of my m%^\M,. ■ *'■ U'l: J'- I \ 1 m;-'| ,.- •11 340 OREGON MISSIONS. sincere grotitude, that in all the forts of the American Fur Company, the charitable liberal- ity and kindness of the gentlemen were un- bounded. Late on the 3d November we renewed our journey, but had not proceeded far when we found it necessary to refit our skiff, which, being quite new, leaks considerably. We landed at a large farm belonging to the company on Fleury's Island. We freely used the permission given to us, and committed great havoc among the poultry. On the 5th we breakfasted at Mr. Rouis' Fort, where I baptized thirteen half-breed children — the day was beautiful and we made the whole of the Grande Detour. We arrived at Fort Look-Out, of which I found Mr. Camp- bell in charge. I baptized here sixteen half- breed children. I was kindly received by a a great number of Sioux. We encamped nine miles lower down at a trading post held by two Canadians, where I baptized four children. On the 10th we p.assed the entrance of Running- water river, a fine stream with a strong current. Two miles above its moutli were encamped one hundred families of the unhappy and much- abused Mormons — mot several Sioux about Great Island, where we encamped. A favora- J5 R EG (YS M IS S I O N S . 341 rts of the >le liberal- were un- lewed our when we ich, being landed at npany on )ermission oc among cd at Mr. lalf-breed we made e arrived r. Camp- t-en half- v^ed by a iped nine held by children. Running- ^ current, nped one d much- X about favora- ble wind enabled us to reach Fort Vermilion on the 13th, four hundred miles below Fort Pierre. I baptized seven half-breed children. Mr. Hamilton liberally supplied us with provi- sions. On the 14th we saw a Mormon along the beach, who fled at our approach. We met two Canadians who had shot a fine turkey, which they gave me : in return I presented them with some coffee and sugar, rare articles in that country. A fine breeze brought us in sight of the old Council Bluffs on the 18th. The river has made considerable changes since my former visit to this place ; entirely new beds have been formed. For several hundred miles, all the forests along the south side of the river were filled with cattle belonging to the Mor- mons. On the 18th we passed the ancient tra- ding post, Lisel de Cabanne's — a few mih^s ])e- low is the new temporary settlement of the Mormons, about ten thousand in number. I wns presented to their president, Mr. Young, a kind and polite gentleman. ITe pressed me very earnestly to remain a fe\»/ dnys, an invita- tion which my limited time did not permit me to accept. The persecutions and sufferings en- dured by this unhappy people, will one day probably form a prominent part of the history i *;':'■ ^ 1^ ^' if «l «' ^42^ ORE iyJTH BO S B I O NST of the Far- west. At sun-set we encamped at Mr. Sarpy's trading post, among the upper Potawotomies, where I met several of my old Indian friends, and among them Potogqjecs, one of their chiefs, whose Indian legend of their re- ligious traditions will form the subject of my next letter. 20th. A beautiful day — we visited our old friends in Bellevuc, the good Mr. Papin and others. We passed the Papillion, the Mosquito, and the Platte rivers, and encamped near Table Creek. On the 23d we arrived at St. Joseph's, the fiighest town in Missouri. It is now in a most thrivina^ and prosperous condition ; much im- proved indeed since I last saw it. 28th. We arrived at West-Port, from which I proceeded by stage to St. Louis, the termination of a trip which occupied just two months. I re- commend myself to your prayers. I remain, with sentiments of profound respect and esteem, your obedient servant and brother in Christ. P. J. DE SMET, S. J. 1 OREGON MISSIONS. 343 camped at the upper of my old gojecs, one )f their re- ject of my d our old Papin and ; Mosquito, fiped near )seph's, the in a most much im- n which I rmination ths. I re- nd respect id brother I 1 , o. J. No. XXV. A. M. D. G. LEGEND OF THE POTAVVOTOMIE INDIANS. St. Louis University, January 10, 1847. Very FiEV. and Dear Father Provincial, — Agreeably to my promise, I send you the ac- count given by the Potawotomies, residing at Council Bluffs, respecting their own origin, and the causes which gave rise to their " great medicine," and juggling, considered by them as of the highest antiquity. Such superstitions, indeed, are found to exist among all the tribes of the American continent, dilfcring only in the form and the accompanying ceremonies. The Nanaboojoo oC the Potawotomies, the Wieska of the Objibbeways. the Wizakeshak of tin Crees, the Sauteux aju^ the Black-Feet, the Etalapasse of the Tchinouks on the coast of the Pacific, can, among these different tribes, be traced up to the same personage. r ^ m '# £ i IP •I ''''ii |:|^ :; ■ffe^l^i^ I i 344 OREGON MISSIONS. I send it verhatimy as it was communicated to me by Potogojecs, one of the most intelligent chiefs of the Potawotomie nation. Though fabu- lous, it is not entirely devoid of interest ; it should excite us to offer up our prayers the more fervently to the Great Father of Light, for these poor benighted children of the forest, and beg of Him to send good and worthy laborers into this vast vineyard. Having enquired of this chief what he thought of the Great Spirit, of the Creator, and of the origin of his religion, or great medicine, he replied as follows : " I will give you a faith iVil account of what my tribe believes in these matters. We have not, like you, books to transmit our traditions to our children ; it is the duly of the old men of the nation to instruct the young people in whatever relates to their belief, and their happiness. " Many among us believe, that there are two Great Spirits who govern the universe, but who are constantly at war with each other. One is called ihe Kclicmnito^ that is, the Great Spirit, the other Mchcmnito, or the Wicked Spirit. The first is goodness itself, and his beneficent infiuence is felt everywhere ; but the second is wi.^i'.ed ii'ss personilied, and does nothing but eviL Some ^K'lievc that they are equally .A- OREO ON MISSIONS. 345 nunicated to 5t intelligent rhough fabu- interest ; it prayers the of Light, for e forest, and thy laborers enquired of Great Spirit, his religion, follows : " I of what my Ne have not, litions to our men of the in whatever piness. ere are two se, but who i(3r. One is p'at Spirit, ked Spirit. beneficent <' second is lothing but re equally I powerful, and, through fear of the Wicked Spirit, offer to him their homage and adoration. Others, again, are doubtful which of *' "m should be considered the more powerful, and accordingly endeavor to propitiate both, by offering to each an appropriate worship. The greater part, however, believe as I do, that Kchemnito is the first principle, the first great cause, and consequently ought to be all-power- ful, and to whom alone is due all worship and adoration ; and that Mchemnito ought to be despised and rejected ! " Kchemnito at first created a world, which he filled with a race of beings having nothing but the appearance of men — perverse, ungrate- ful, wicked dogs — that never raised their eyes to heaven to implore the assistance of the Great Spirit. Such ingratitude aroused him to anger, and he plunged the world in a great lake, where they were all drowned. His anger thus ap- peased, he withdrew it from the waters, and created anew a beautiful young man, who, however, appeared very sad, and being dissatis- fied with his solitary condition, grew weary of life. Kchemnito took pity on him, and gave him, during sleep, a sister, as a companion to cheer his loneliness. "When he awoke and saw fc'^'':m: :k. 346 OREGON MISSIONS. his sister he rejoiced exceedingly — his melan- choly instantly disappeared. They spent their time in agreeable conversation and amusement, living for many years together in a state of innocence and perfect harmony, without the slighest incident to mar the happiness of their peaceful solitude. " The young man had a dream, for the first time, which he communicated to his sister, *Five young men,' said he, * will come this night, and rap at the door of the lodge — the Great Spirit forbids you to laugh, to look at them, or give an answer to any of the first four, but laugh, look, and speak, when the fifth presents himself She acted according to his advice. When she heard the voice of the fifth, she opened the door to him, laughing at the same time very heartily ; he entered immediate- ly, and became her husband. The first of the Rve strangers, called Sama, (tobacco.) having received no answer, died of grief; the three others, Wapekone, (pumpkin,) Eshketamok, (water-melon,) and Kojees, (the bean.) shared the fate of their companion. Taaman, (maize,) the bridegroom, buried his four companions, and from their graves there sprung up, shortly after, pumpkins, water-melons, beans, and tobacco- ...^tSSSS^ — his melan- '■ spent their amusement, 1 a state of without the less of their for the first ) his sister, 1 come this 1 lodge — the , to look at of the first hen the fifth rding to his of the fifth, hing at the immediate- irst of the CO.) having the three shketamok, an,) shared m, (maize,) anions, and ortly after, id tobacco- r^ OREGON MISSIONS. 347 plants in sufficient abundance to supply their wants during the whole year, and enable them to smoke to the manitous, and in the council. From this union are descended the American Indian nations. " A great manitou came on earth, and chose a wife from among the children of men. He had four sons at a birth ; the first born was called Nanaboojoo, the friend of the human race, the mediator between man and the Great Spirit; the second was named Chipiapoos, the man of the dead, who presides over the country of the souls ; the third, Wabosso, as soon as he saw the light, fled towards the north, where he was changed into a white rabbit, and under that name is considered there as a great manitou ; the fourth was Chakekenapok, the man of flint, or fire-stone. In coming into th^ world he caus- ed the death of his mother. " Nanaboojoo, having arrived at the age of manhood, resolved to avenge the death of his mother, (for among us revenge is considered honorable) ; he pursued Chakekenapok all over the globe. Whenever he could come within reach of his brother, he fractured some member of his bou^ , and after several renconters, finally destroyed him by tearing out his entrails. All "4i fi '•f 348 OREGON MISSIONS. bf" ^ tiiii H 5 * fragments broken from the body of this man of stone then grew up into large rocks ; his entrails were changed into vines of every species, and took deep root in all the forests ; the flint-stones scattered around the earth indicate where the different combats took place. Before fire was introduced among us, Nanaboojoo taught our ancestors how to form hatchets, lances, and the points of arrows, in order to assist us in killing our enemies in war, and animals for our food. Nanaboojoo and his brother, Chipiapoos, lived together retired from the rest of mankind, and were distinguished from all other beings by their superior qualities of body and mind. The manitous that dwell in the air, as well as those who inhabit the earth and the waters, envied the power of these brothers, and conspired to destroy them. Nanaboojoo discovered and eluded their snares, and warned Chipiapoos not to separate himself from him a single moment. Notwithstanding this admonition, Chipiapoos ventured alone one day upon Lake Michigan ; the manitous broke the ice, and he sank to the bottom, where they hid the body. Nanaboojoo became inconsolable when he missed his brother from his lodge ; he sought him everywhere in vain, he waged war against all the manitous, r s. OREGON MISSIONS. 341) of this man of ks ; his entrails •y species, and the flint-stones ;ate where the Before fire was joo taught our lances, and the St us in killing [s for our food. ipiapoos, lived mankind, and her beings by id mind. The s well as those waters, envied i conspired to scovered and hipiapoos not ngle moment. n, Chipiapoos ie Michigan ; e sank to the Nanaboojoo ed his brother verywhere in he manitous, and precipitated an infinite number of them into the deepest abyss. He then wept, disfigured his person, and covered his head, as a sign of his grief, during six years, pronouncing from time to time, in sad and mournful tones, the name of the unhappy Chipiapoos. "While this truce continued, the manitous consulted upon the means best calculated to ap- pease the anger of Nanaboojoo, without, ho^v■« ever, coming to any conclusion ; when four of the oldest and wi >l, who had had no hand in the death of Chipiapoos, ofi'ered to accomplish the difficult task. They built a lodge close to that of Nanaboojoo, prepared an excellent re- past, and filled a calumet with the most exqui- site tobacco. They journeyed in silence to- wards their redoubted enemy, each carrying under his arm a bag, formed of the entire skin of some animal, an otter, a lynx, or a beaver, well provided with the most precious medicines, (to which, in their superstitious practices, they attach a supernatural power). With many kind expressions, they begged that he would condescend to accompany them. He arose im- mediately, uncovered his head, washed himself, and followed them. When arrived at their lodge, they oftered him a cup containing a dose 16 S ^ w. ^^ .^^^ %%i %^" > IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 I.I UilM |£5 1.25 1 2.0 HA Hiotographic ^Sciences Corporation 1 ^/ v- ^0 -^ ^ ^ ^ =1 # ¥(5^ 23 WIST MAIN STINT WIKTIR.N.Y. I4SM (71*) •7a-4S03 ;\ .*'.^ ^^^ ^ ^1- i •' : ■»' "\, i ■?• : h 1 * 350 OREGON MISSIONS. of their medicine, preparatory to his initiation. Nanaboojoo swallowed the contents at a single draught, and found himself completely restored. They then commenced their dances and their songs ; they also applied their medicine bags, which, after gently blowing them at him, they would then cast on the ground ; at each fall of the medicine bag, Nanaboojoo perceived that his melancholy, sadness, hatred, and anger dis- appeared, and affections of an opposite nature took possession of his soul. They all joined in the dance and song — they ate and smoked to- gether. Nanaboojoo thanked them for having initiated him in the mysteries of their grand medicine. " The manitous brought back the lost Chipia- poos, but it was forbidden him to enter the lodge; he received, through a chink, a burning coal, and was ordered to go and preside over the region of souls, and there, for the happiness of his uncles and aunts, that is, lor all men and women, who should repair thither, kindle wilh this coal a fire which should never be extin- guished. "Nanaboojoo then re-descended upon earth, and, by order of the Great Spirit, initiated all his family in the mysteries of the grand medi- OREGON MISSiONS. 351 I cine. lie procured for each of them a bag well furnished with mediciiu's, giving them strict orders to perpetuate these ceremonies among their descendants, adding at the same time, that these practices, religiously observed, would cure their maladies, procure them abundance in the chase, and give them complete victory over their enemies. (All their religion consists in these superstitious practices, dances and songs ; they have the most implicit faith in these strange reveries.) " Nanaboqjoo is our principal intercessor with the Great Spirit ; he it was that obtained for us the creation of animals forour food and raiment. He has caused to grow those roots and herbs which arc endowed with the virtue of curing our maladies, and of enabling us, in time of famine, to kill the wild animals. lie has left the care of them to Mesakkummikokwi, the great-grandmother of the human race, and in order that we should never invoke her in vain, it has been strictly enjoined on the old woman never to quit the dwelling. Hence, when an Indian makes the collection of roots and herbs which arc to serve him as medicines, he de- posits, at the same time, on the earth, a small '}. t. •■n • 'if* 352 OREGON MISSIONS. ■(■■■ :4l :j ■ fiV: '.), 1 . « 1:^. 4 1 , * .1'. 1. '• 1 ' a Hi f ^li J ^ * offering to Mcsakkummikokwi. During his different excursions over the surface of the earth, Nanaboojoo killed all such animals as were hurtful to us, as the mastodon, the mammoth, etc. He has placed four beneficial spirits at the four cardinal points of the earth, for the purpose of contributing to the happiness of the human race. That of the north procures for us ice and snow, in order to aid us in discovering and following the wild animals. That of the south gives us that which occasions the growth of our pumpkins, melons, maizes and tobacco. The spirit placed at the west gives us rain, and that of the efist gives us light, and commands the sun to make his daily walks around the globe. The thunder we hear is the voice of spirits, having the form of large birds, which Nana- boojoo has placed in the clouds. When they cry very loud we burn some tobacco in our cabins, to make them a smoke-offering and ap- pease them. " Nanaboojoo yet lives, resting himself after his labors, upon an immense flake of ice, in the Great Lake, (the North Sea). We fear that the whites will one day discover his retreat, and drive him off, then the end of the world is at ORE GOV MISSIONS. 353 During? his )i' the eartli, Is as were mammoth, pirits at the the purpose the human lor us ice jveriiij;^ and )!' the south owlhofour icco. The in, and that amands the d the iii \i »^ 354 OR EGON MISSIONS. deluge, of the creation of the universe, of Adam and Eve ; even some traces of the incarnation are found in the birth of Nanaboojoo, he was descended of parents, one of whom only, his mother, was of the human race ; he is, moreover, the intercessor between God and man. I recommend myself to your prayers. I remain, with sentiments of profound respect and esteem, your obedient humble J^ervant and brother in Christ. P. J. DE SMET, S, J. I OREGON MISSIONS. 355 No. XXVI. A. M. D. G. Philadelphia, April 6th, 1847. Mr. J. D. Bryant, Dear Sir, — The nation of the Pawnees is di- vided into four great tribes, which act in concert as one people. They liave their villages upon the river Platte, or Nebrasca, and its tributaries, about 150 miles west of the Missouri river. They are the same true children of the desert as they have been these many ages. — They dress in the skins of animals killed in the chase. They cultivate inaize and squashes, using the shoulder-blade of the buffalo as a substitute for the plough and hoe. In the season of the chase, a whole village, men, women, and children, abandon tlnMr settlements and go in pursuit of the animals whose flesh supplies them with food. Their huts, which they call akkaros, are circu- lar, and about 140 feet in circumference. They are ingeniously fcrmed by planting young trees 356 OREGON MISSIONS. at suitable distancos apart, then bonding and joining thrir tops to a nuirdxT of pillars or posts fixed circularly in the centre of the enclosure. The trees are then covered with bark, over which is thrown a layer of earth, nearly a foot in thickness, and finally, a solid mass of green turf completes the structure. These dwellings, thus eoini)leted, resemble hillocks. A large aperture in the top serves to admit the light and also to emit the smoke. They are very warm in winter, and cool, but oftentimes very damp, in summer. They arc large enough to contain ten or a dozen families. If, in the long journeys which they undertake in search of game, any should be impeded, either by age or sickness, their children or rela- tions make a small hut of dried grass to shelter them from the heat of the sun or from the weather, leaving as much provision as they are able to spare, and thus abjuidon them to their des iny. Nothing is more touching than this constrained separation, caused by absolute ne- cessity — the tears find cries of the children on the one hand, and the calm resignation of the ajfed father or mother on the other. They often enr'ourage their children not to expose their own lives in order to i)rolong their short rem- OREGON MISSIONS. 357 nant of time. Thry arc anxious to depart on their lon^ Journey, and to Join their ancestors in the huntinjj-jyrounds of tlie Great Spirit. If, some days after, thev are successful in the chase, they return as quickly .as possible to ren- der assistance and consolation. These practices are common to all the nomadic tribes of the mountains. The Pawnees have nearly the same ideas concerning; the universal delui^e as those which I have given of the Potawotomies. In relation to the soul, they say, that th(«r(* is a resemblance in the body which does not die, but detaches it- self when the body expires. If a man has been good during this life, kind to his parents, a good hunter, a good warrior, his soul (sa rr.v.vrm- hlaticc) is transported into a land of delights, abundance, an-v pleasun^s. If, on the contrary, a man has been vicked, hard-hearted, cruel and indolent, his soul passes through narrow straits, diflicult and dangerous, into a country where all is confusion, contrariety and unhappiness. In their religious ceremonies, they dance, sing and pray before a bird stuffed with all kinds of roots and herbs used in their superstition. They have a fabulous tradition, which teaches them that the morning star sent this bird to their an- ♦»■: r- I' I, ■ i •- |»lf 1 ii 358 OREGON MISSIONS. ccstors, as its representative, with orders to in- voke it on all important occasions and to exhibit it in times of sacrifice. Before the invocation, they fill the calumet with the sacred herb con- tained in the bird. They then puff out the smoke towards the star, offer the prayers and make their demands, dancing and singing, and celebrating in verses the great power of the bird. They implore its assistance and its favor, whether to obtain success in hunting or in war, or to demand snow in order to make the buffalo descend from the mountains, or to appease the Great Spirit when a public calamity befalls the nation, or a family, or even a single person. The Pawnees are one of the few aboriginal tribes, which, descending from the ancient Mexicans, are guilty of offering human sacrifices. In order to justify this barbarous practice, they say that the morning star taught them by means of the bird, that such sacrifices were agreeable to it, and would bring down upon the nation the favor of the great Deliberator* of the universe. They are firmly persuaded that human sacrifices are most agreeable to the Great Spirit. Hence, when the Pawnee takes a prisoner and wishes p:m^m * A name which they give to the Groat Spirit. r i OREGON MISSIONS. 359 orders to in- nd to exhibit (' invocation, nd herb con- pufT out the prayers and singing, and ower of the md its favor, ig or in war, c the buflalo appease the y befalls the person. The ginal tribes, it Mexicans, es. In order hey say that leans of the ieable to it, nation the he universe, an sacrifices rit. Hence, and wishes Spirit. to render himself acceptable to Heaven, he de- votes it to the morning star. At the time of sacrifice, he delivers the prisoner over into the hands of the jugglers ; soon after which, com- mence the ceremonies preparatory to the offer- ing. I was in the neighborhood when one of these bloody sacrifices took place, and the par- ticulars, which I am about to relate, were re- ported to me by worthy eye-witnesses. The victim in this horrid transaction was a young 8ioux girl,namcd Dakotha, aged 15 years, who had been taken prisoner by the Pawnees about six months previous to her immolation. During the months of her captivity, Dakotha received from the Pawnees every mark of re- gard which savages are capable of bestowing. She was an honored guc^st at all the fetes and festivities of the village ; and everywhere was treated, in appearance at least, rather as a fond friend than as a prisoner. It is the custom thus to prepare the victim, in order to conceal their infernal design. The month of April being the season for planting, is on that account selected for the offering of their abominable sacrifices. To this end, four of the principal savages of the tribe assemble in the largest and most beautiful *, I ,.ii- i >» M 4 ,7j> , { 'k/t' i ► tM'y - I r^'\ ; ^i-H ' * w: r" , ' • t,' * 300 O R E C ( ) N MISSIONS. akkaro or hut, to dclihcrate withTirawaat, or tho grrat Doliborator of the universe, concerning the sacrifice of the victim. According to their belief, a liuman oU'eiing is rewarded by him with an almnd.ant harvest, he fills the hunting- grounds convenient to their villages with im- mense herds of buffaloes, deer and antelopes, thus enabling them to kill their prey with more facility and with less risk of coming in contact with other warlike and hostile nations. The oldest savage of the tribe presides at the feast given on the occasion. Ten of the best singers and musicians, each with his peculiar instrument, squat in the middle of the akkaio. Four of them have dried calabashes in their hands, from which the seeds have been extract- ed and small pebbles placed in their stead, which being shaken by the muscular arms of these gigantic savages, produce a sound like falling hail. Four others beat their tekapiroutche — this is a kind of drum of a most mournful and deafening sound ; it is made from the trunk of a tree and is about three feet long and one-and- a-half broad, covered at both ends with deer skin. The remaining two have a kind of flute made of reeds, about two feet long and one inch in diameter, instruments, such as were used by O B E r. O N MISSIONS. :m the ancirnt shrphcrds, and wiiich jjivc forth sounds that may bo hrard at tlic distance of ha.'f a mile. They fasten to each instrument a little tewaara, or mfMlicine bajr, lilh^l with roots and other materials, to which, in their supersti- tious rites, they attach a supernatural power, that renders their od'erinj? more a' •i'fi •1! i! -I ■ »- < 1' ■ ■":, H ^'1' if -V . '^'mt im > f,' ► ■'•» . '.ki ;:!''-■' " S' .'': ,H » 362 OREGON MISSIONS. the confused commingling of the colors with which they are smeared — now they crowd to- gether pell-mell, then separate, some to the right, some to the left, one upon one foot, another upon two, while others go on all-fours without order, and although without the appearance of mea- sure, yet, in perfect harmony with their drums, their calabashes and their flutes. Near the centre of the hut, at about four feet from the fire-place, are placed four large buffalo heads, dissected, in order that they may take the augury. The presiding juggler, the musicians and the dancers have their heads covered with the down of the swan, which sticks to them by means of honey, with which they smear their hair — a practice common to all the tribes of North America in their superstitious rites. The president or presiding juggler alone is painted with red, the musicians, one half red find the other half black, while all the others are daubed with all colors, and in the most fantastic figures. Each time that the music, the songs and the dances are performed, the spectators observe the most profound silence, and during the space of thirty minutes that the extraordinary charivari continues, nothing is heard but the chants, the cries, the bowlings and the music. When all OREGO N MIS SIONS. 363 have fij^ured in the dance, the presiding juggler gives the signal to stop, crying out with all the force of his lungs. Immediately all cease, each one takes his place, and the auditory responds : "Neva ! Neva! Nova!" it is well, it is well, it is well ! The dancers then fill the ancient naw- ishkaro, or religious calumet, which is used only upon occasions the most important. They offer it to the president, who, striking with both his hands the long pipe, adorned with pearls and worked with different figures, goes and squats himself down by the lire-place. One of the guards places a coal upon the mysterious calu- met. Having lighted it, he rises and gives a puff to each of the musicians without once slacking his hold from the pipe. He then turns towards the centre, and raising his eyes towards heaven, he offers the calumet to the Master of life, resting for a moment in majestic silence : then, offering three puffs to h(»aven, he speaks these words: "O, Tirawaat ! Thou who be- holdest all things, s'l^oke with thy children, and take pity on us." He then offers the calumet to the buffalo heads, their great manitous, salutes each of them with two pulfs, and i\wn goes to empty the bowl of the pipe in a wooden dish, prepared for that purpose, that the sacred ashes *.?•• -; .■ '■:k: 3t>4 OREGON MISSIONS. may be aftt^rvvards gathered and preserved in a deer-skin pouch.* After the dance, the master of ceremonies serves up the repast to the guests, seated in a circle. The food consists of dried buffalo meat and boiled maize, served in wooden plates, filled to the brim. Each one is bound to empty his plate, even should he expose himself to the danger of death from indigestion. The presi- dent offers a portion of the meat and maize to the Great Spirit, and places it accordingly upon the ground, and he then makes a similar offer- ing to one of the buffalo heads, which is sup- posed to be a party to the feast. At length, while each one occupies himself with doing honor to his plate, one of the chiefs of the band rises up and announces to all the guesis that the Master of life dances with him, and that he accepts the calumet and the feasting. All the band reply: "Neva! N6va ! Neva!" This is the first condemnation. r'» f m .t * TluH method of smokitifr is in frroai ropiito amonjr nil tho Bavajjos of tho WchI. It is of tho samo importunco and c(inally uh binding as an oath amon^ civilized nations. If two savafrps, ready to kill each other, can ho indnced to accept the cahinict, the dispute ceases, and the hond of their friendship bccoines stronger thon over. served in a ceremonies seated in a lufTalo meat plates, filled > empty his iself to the The presi- tid maize to dingly upon imilar ofTer- hich is sup- At length, with doing of the band guesis that and that he Ing. All the . ! " This is OREGUN MISSIONS. mr* Tlie repast ended, they again dance, nfter which the calumet is lighted the second time; and, as' in the former instance, is offered to the Master of life and to the butfalo heads, upon which, the lodge again resounds with the triple crv, " Neva ! " This last dance condemns, without appeal, th(^ unfortunate victim whose immolation is invoked. After all their grotesque dances, their cries, tlieir chants and their vociferations, the savages, preceded by the musicians, go out of the lodge, to present the sacred calumet to th(^ bulfalo heads placed on the tops of the lodges of the village, each of which is ornamented with from two to eight heads, preserved as the trophies of their skill in the chase. At each puff the multi- tude raise a furious crv, for now the whole \\\- Inge joins in the extraordinary procession. They stop before the lodge of the Sioux girl, and make the jiii- n'Mumd with the horrible imj)re- cations against th(Mr enemirs and against the unfortunate and innocent victim, who n presents \ nmonjT nil tho CO undc{iimlly iih If two snvajrPH. 4 mome whose ipt tho caliiinct, snsM'f' ■A ' jccomcs stronger I fe icrili( th<'m on tlie present occasion. Fr om tl us nt she is guarded by two old satellites, office it is to Ix^giiih^ her from the least on that she is the viclini for tin* coming jc ; and whose duty it also is to entertain i'- i '■ sl> •i-' /•■,■ 'll) •', W:- ki * , ' ^"' ■'■ ■\ , ■ . '^- i * ^ * j ft'*' \ ,f » *«■ \4 ' 1'' J-, t J • >. "f ■•■ -, ■"t t* ': '- " . - i \] \ ■'i • 4 .;> ! - / '■' - 'i; J. k 1 1 ^ J li : 366 OREGON MISISIUNS. her upon the great feast, they prepare on the occasion in her honor, and that she may be well fed in order to appear more beautiful and fat, and thereby more agreeable to the Master of life. This ends the first day of the ceremonies. On the second day, two old female savages, with dishevelled hair, their faces wrinkled and daubed with black and red paint, their naked arms and legs tattooed, barefooted, and with no other dress than a deer-skin petticoat, extend- ing down to the knee — in a word, two miser- able-looking beldams, capable of striking terror in any beholder, — issue from their huts with pipes in their hands, ornamented with the scalps which their husbands have taken from their unhappy enemies. Passing through the village, they dance around each akkaro, so- lemnly announcing, " that the Sioux girl has been given to the Master of life by wise and just men, that the offering is acceptable to him, and that each one should prepare to celebrate the day with festivity and mirth." At this announcement, the idlers and children of the village move about and shout with joy. They then, still dancing, re-conduct the two old squaws to their huts, before which they place their pikes as trophies, and enter. — All then s. OREGON MISSIONS. S67 re pare on the B may be well utiful and fat, the Master of le ceremonies, male savages, wrinkled and I, their naked I, and with no icoat, extend- d, two miser- itriking terror eir huts with ed with the e taken from through the I akkaro, so- oux girl has by wise and table to him, to celebrate Ih." At this Idren of the 1 joy. They the two old h they place r. — All then returr to their own lodge, to partake of the feasts of their relatives. About ten o'clock in the morning of the third day, all the young women and girls of the vil- lage, armed with hatchets, repair to the lodgf of their young and unhappy captive, and invite her to go into the forest with them to cut wood. — The simple-hearted, confiding child, accepts their malicious invitation with eagerness and joy, happy to breathe once more the pure air. — They then give her a hatchet, and the female troop advance towards the place marked out in the dance, making the forest resound with shouts of joy. Atipaat, an old squaw who con- ducted them, designates, by a blow of the hatchet, the tree which is to be cut down. Each then gives it one blow, after which the victim approaches to complete the work. As soon as she commences what seems to her but pastime, the whole crowd of young furies sur- round her, howling and dancing. Unconscious that the tree is to supply the wood for her own sacrifice, the poor child pursues her work as if a great honor had been reserved for her. — Atipaat, the old woman, then fastens to her the a?hki* with which to draw the wood. * The ashki is a cord, made of horae-huir or of the hark of the elm, which they prepare by boiling it in cold water. It m « t? ■■.! '!, i W 7 ' I ,1 308 OREGON MISSIONS. The troop then lead the way towards the vil- lage, dancing as they pass along, but giving the hapless victim almost no assistance in dragging her load. An innumerable multitude attend them to the place of sacrifice, and receive them with loud acclamations. They there relieve her of her burden and again place her in the hands of the guards, who, with voices harsh and quivering, chant the great deeds of their younger days and re-conduct her to her lodge. In the meantime the whole band assist to ar- range the wood between two trees, after which they immediately disperse. On the morning of the fourth day, before sun- rise, a savage visits all the lodges to announce to each family, in the name of the Master of life, that they must furnish two billets of wood about three feet long for the sacrifice. Then thirty warriors issue from their lodges, decked in all sorts of accoutrements ; their heads adorned with deer and buffalo horns, with the tails of horses and the plumes of the varies from twcnty-fivo to sixty feet in lenjjth, and, althongh it is but about one incb in tbickness, it is strong enongb to bind the most powerl'iil man. Tbis tbey adorn witb tbe quills of tbo por- cupine, and witb littlo bells. Tbo bolls, besides for tbe sake of ornament, nro intended to give notice in case tbe victim makes any ettbrts to escape. vards the vil- >ut crivin": the 2 in dragging titude attend receive them here relieve e her in the voices harsh eeds of their to her lodge. assist to ar- ^, after which y, before sun- to announce he Master of llets of wood ice. their lodges, nents ; their uflalo horns, umes of the md, although it is noiigh to bind tho quills of tho por- CH for the flake of the victim makes OREGON MISSIONS. 80!) eagle and heron, interwoven with their scalp- locks, while the tails of wolves and wild eats stream from various parts behind, as the wings of Mercury are represented, with pendants hanging from their noses and ears, so elongated by the weight of the ornaments suspended to them, that they float about and strike against their shoulders. — Glass beads, or necklaces of brass or steel adorn their necks, while highly- ornamented deer-skin leggins and curiously- painted buflJ'alo-skins, negligently thrown over their shouldeis, complete their grotest^ue hal)ili- ments. Thus accoutred they present them- selves at the hut of their captive, who is al- ready adorned with the most beautiful dress their fancy can device, or the materials at their command produce. Her head-dress is composed of the feathers of the eagle and swan, and de- scends behind in gracefully waving curves, even to the ground. Her person is properly painted with red and black lines. A frock of deer-skin descends to the knee, while a beautiful pair of leggins extend from thence to the ankle. A pair of moccasins garnished with porcupine quills, pearl and glass beads, are on her feet. Pend- ants hang from her ears and nos(*, a necklace ornaments her neck, and bracelets her arms ; ^•.',:f r-v J .'■■■>•< ■fW ^ ill t '-..t . II We 370 OREGON MISSIONS. nothing was spared that could add to her beauty. Tranquillity and joy distinguishes her as she approaches the grand feast, which she has been made to believe her kind guardians have pre- pared to honor her. At the first cry of the war- riors, the poor child comes out of the hut and walks at the head of her executioners, who fol- low in single file. As they pass along they en- ter into all the huts, where the most profound silence and the utmost propriety reign. The Sioux girl walks around the fire-place, her fol- lowers do the same, and, just as she leaves the lodge, the principal squaw gives her two billets of wood, which the unconscious victim gives in her turn to each of the savages. In this man- ner, when she has been made collect all the wood to serve for her immolation, she takes her place in the rear of the band, joyous and con- tent that she has had the happiness to contri- bute to the pleasure of her executioners; after which they again restore her to her two guards, to be presented with her last repast, which con- sists of a large plate of maize. All now wait in anxious expectation to wit- ness the last scene of the bloody drama. The whole village is in commotion. Everywhere OREGON MISSIONS. 371 add to her s her as she she has been ,ns have pre- •y of the war- " the hut and ners, who fol- long they en- nost profound T reign. The place, her fol- she leaves the ler two billets ictim gives in In this man- jollect all the , she takes her yous and con- less to contri- itioners; after er two guards, ist, which con- ctation to wit- drama. The Everywhere the warriors, old and young, may be seen pre- paring their murderous arrow, as upon the eve of a battle. Some practice shooting at a mark ; the more barbarous, thirsting for the blood of their enemies, encourage and instruct their chil- dren in the use of the bow and arrow, and what part of the body they ought to strike. — The young women and girls devote themselves to clearing away the bushes and preparing the place of sacrifice, after the accomplishment of which, they employ themselves during the rest of that day and night in polishing their neck- laces, pendants and bracelets, and all the other ornaments in which they wish to appear at the ^Teat feast. On the fifth day, an aid-de-camp of Lechar- tetewarouchte, or the chief of sacrifice, ran through the village to announce, in the name of his master, the necessity of preparing the red and black paint, which is to serve for the grand ceremony. It is vain to attempt to give you, my dear sir, an adequate description of this personage, either as regards his costume, his figure, or his manner ; it is every thing that a savage can invent of the fantastic, the ridicu- lous and the frightful, united in one person. The collector of colors himself scarcely yields 372 OREGON MISSIONS. (i ( ;■ < M to his comrade in monstrosity. lie has the ap- pearance of one, truly, just escaped I'rom the infernal regions. His body is painted black, which, contrasted with the whiteness of his teeth and of his huge eyes, and with his hair besmeared with white clay, and bristling like the mane of a lion, gives him an aspect terrible and ferocious in the extreme. At each heel is fastened the tail of a wolf, and on his feet a pair of moccasins made of buffalo skin, with the long shaggy hair on the outside. He passes through the whole village with a measured step, holding a wooden plate in each hand. He enters the huts successively, and, as he ap- proaches the lire-place, he cries aloud : " The Master of life sends me here." Immediatelv, a woman comes and empties into one of his plates either some red or some black paint, which she had prepared. Upon the reception of which, he raises his eyes to heaven, and with a loud voice says : " Regard the love of thy children, O Tirawaat ! However poor, all that they pos- sess is thine, and they give it to thee. Grant us an abundant harvest. Fill our hunting- grounds with buffaloes, deer, stags and ante- lopes. Make us powerful against our enemies, so that we may again renew this great sacri- s. le has the ap- xped i'rom iho )ainted black, iteness of his with his hair [ bristling like aspect terrible \.t each heel is on his feet a ) skin, with the e. He passes li a measured in each hand, and, as he ap- 5 aloud: "The Immediately, a ne of his plates [lint, which she tion of which, ,nd with a loud )f thy children, that they pos- thee. Grant our hunting- ags and antc- st our enemies, lis great sacri- ORKGON MIIIIONI. 37» fice." Each one replies by the usual exclama- tion: "Neva! Neva! Neva!" After the return of the collector of colors, and before sunrise, the last scene commences. Men and women, boys and girls, daub them- selves in all the colors and forms imaginable. They deck themselves in whatever they possess which in their estimation is either beautiful or precious — pearls, beads, porcelain collars, the claws of the white bear, ( this is in their view the most costly and valuable decoration ) brace- lets and pendants; nothing is forgotten on this occasion. They ornament their hair with the feathers of the heron, and of the gray eagle, a bird superstitiously venerated by them. Thus equipped for their sortie, they listen attentively for the first signal to the sacrifice. While these preparations are in progress, the Tewaarouchte, a religious band of distinguished warriors, known in the procession by the down of swans upon their hair or upon the tops of their heads, and by their naked bodies painted in red and black lines, follow the braves of the nation armed with their bows and arrows, which are sedulously concealed beneath their buffalo robes. Thus they approach the lodge where the unconscious victim awaits, as she thinks, 17 > t : t m ■fl. .■.'H ;:■. .ii ' ^!:^= • ■ < ' :< r u ■ ,;. .■ •■ ■'*: . >^'. , ■ ,1 I'.. •!5'f '':V J?. * 1 i < .4 •' !( « . 374 OREGON MISSIONS. the happy moment for the festivities given in her honor, to commence. She is now deliver- ed into the hands of her executioners, dressed in the beautiful costume of the previous day, with the addition of a cord tied to each ankle. The poor child is all interest and in a kind of impatience to participate in the grand festivi- ties. She smiles as she looks round upon the most cruel and the most revengeful enemies of her race. Not the slightest agitation, fear, or suspicion, is visible in her manner. She walks with joy and confidence in the midst of her exe- cutioners. Arrived at the fatal spot, a fright- ful presentiment flashes across her mind. There is no one of her own sex present. In vain do her eyes wander from place to place, in order to find the evidences of a feast. Why that solitary fire ? And those three posts, which she herself drew from the forest, and which she saw fastened between two trees, and those swar- thy figures of the warriors, what can they mean ? All, all indicate some dreadful project. They order her to mount the three posts. She hesitates, she trembles as an innocent lamb prepared for the slaughter. She weeps most bitterly and with a voice the most touching, such as must have broken any other hearts than those of these ^l OREGON MISSIONS. 375 savajro men, she implores them not to kill her. With a jxTsujisive tone they endeavor to con- vince her that their intention is not to injure her, but that the ceremonies in which she par- ticipates arc indispensable before the grand least. One of the most active of the savages unrolls the cords tied to her wrists and assists her to mount the post. He passes the cords over the branches of the two trees, between which the sacrifice is to be made. These are rendered firm by the powerful arms of the other savages, and her feet imme- diately fastened to the topmost of the three posts, which she had unconsciously cut and drawn to the fatal spot. On the instant all doubt of their intentions vanishes from her mind. The savages no longer conceal from her their frightful project. She cries aloud, she weeps, she prays ; but her supplications, her tears and her prayers are alike drowned in the melee, and cry of their horrible imprecations against her nation. Upon her innocent and dtn'oted head they concentrate the full measure of their vengeance, of all the cruelties, of all the crimes, of all the injustice and cruelty of the Sioux, which may have taken place in their most cruel and pro- nt F^^ 370 OREGON MISSIONS. 1^ 5 ! Pt II* 'W; » i tracted wars, and which from time immemorial had been transmitted from father to son, as a precious heritage of vengeance and resentment. In a manner the most furious and most triumph- ant they exult with leaping and howling, like wild beasts, around their trembling victim. They then despoil her of all her ornaments and of her dress, when the chief of the sacrifice ap- proaches and paints one-half of her body black and the other half red, the colours of their vic- tims. He then scorches her armpits and sides with a pine-knot torch. After these preparatory rites, he gives the signal to the whole tribe, who make the air resound with the terrible war-cry of the Sassaskwi. At this piercing cry, which freezes the heart with terror, which paralyzes the timid and rouses the ardor of the brave, which confounds the buffalo in his course, and fills the bear with such fear as to take from him all the power of resisting or fleeing from his enemies, the savages, impatient and greedy for blood, issue from their dark lodges. Like a ter- riffic hurricane they rush headlong to the fatal spot. Their cries, mingled with the noise of their feet, resemble the roar of thundt^r, increas- ing as the storm approaches. As a swarm of bees surround their queen, these Pawnee savages jN. OREGON MISSIONS. 377 i. i immemorial to son, as a (1 resentment, most triumph- howling, like bling victim, rnaments and ? sacrifice ap- er body black i of their vic- )its and sides le preparatory ole tribe, who rrible war-cry ng cry, which ich paralyzes 3f the brave, is course, and take from him eing from his md greedy for }. Like a ter- ^ to the fatal the noise of mder, increas- s a swarm of iwnee savages encompass the Sioux child — their trembling victim. In the twinkling of an eye, their bows are bent and their arrows adjusted to the cords. The arrow of Lecharitetewarouchte, or chief of the sacrifice, is the only one which is barbed with iron. With this, it is his province to pierce the heart of the innocent Dakotha. A profound silence reigns for an instant among the fero- cious band. No sound breaks the awful still- ness save the sobs and piteous moans of the victim, who hangs trembling in the air, while the chief of the sacrifice makes a last ofTering of her to the Master of the universe. At that moment he transfixes her through the heart — upon the instant a thousand murderous arrows quiver in the body of the poor child. Her whole body is one shapeless mass, riddled with arrows as numerous as are the quills upon the back of the porcupine. While the howling and the dancing continue, the great chief of the nation, mounting the three posts in triumph, plucks the arrows from the dead body and casts them into the fire. The iron- barbed arrow being the only one preserved for future sacrifices. He then squeezes the blood from the mangled flesh, upon the maize and other seeds, which stand around in baskets readv 378 OREG ON MISSIONS. '<\mi-^. :\ ^J?V»,::/ ■,ii to be planted ; and then, as the last act of this cruel and bloody sacrifice, he plucks the still palpitating heart from the body, and, heaping the fiercest imprecations upon the enemies of his race, devours it amidst the shouts and screams of his people. The rite is finished. The haughty and satisfied savages move away from the scene of their awful tragedy ; they pass the remainder of the day in feasts and merriment. The murdered and deformed body hangs where it was immolated, a prey to wolves and carnivo- rous birds. I will end this painful tragedy, by giving you an extract of a former letter. " Such horrid cruelties could not but bring down the wrath of Heaven upon their nation. As soon as the report of the sacrifice reached the Sioux, they burned with ihe desire to avenge their honor, and bound themselves by oaths that they would not rest until they had killed as mjiny Pawnees as their innocent victim liad bones or joints in her body. More than a hun- dred Pawnees have at length fallen under their tomahawks, and their oaths have since been still more amply fulfilled in the massacre of their wives and children. " In view of so much cruelty, who could mis- take the agency of the arch enemy of mankind, OREGON MISSIONS, 379 5t act of this icks the still md, heapinj^ nemies of his and screams ished. The e away from hey pass the 1 merriment, hangs where and carnivo- [ tragedy, by etter. )t l)ut bring ^heir nation. ! reached the 3 to avenge )y oaths that id killed as victim had than a hun- i under their since been nassacrc of and who would refuse to exert himself to bring these benighted nations to the knowledge of the One only true Mediator between God and man, and of the only true sacrifice without which it is impossible to appease the Divine justice ? " With sentiments of respect and esteem, I remain, my dear sir, yours, r OREGON MISSIONS. 381 ^ -^.1 ('--i>^ li>^^- -i' 0- A •/. ■N I s ^ § poor widow Camilla, one of the Sinpoil tribe. The ball had passed through her throat, and she expired without a groan ! Happily, her soul was ripe for Heaven. From the period of her first communion, she had never passed a Sunday without approaching the holy table, nor was her bapt smrl robe sullied by the slightest stain. The funeral obsequies were performed on the banks of Yellow-Rock River, because that spot was better suited than any other to conceal her sepulchre from the avaricious Black-Foot assas- sin. All things work together for good to them that love God ; this death, terrible, indeed, in the sight of men, but precious in the eyes of the Lord, became the source of a good work. The murdered woman left two daughters, both very young ; had her life been spared, she would not, perhaps, have been able to shield their inno- cence from the dangers to which it would have been exposed ; but, now, they were immediately adopted by Ambrose, chief of the Flat-Heads, and father of a numerous family ; in his noble heart, charity, piety, and confidence in God, go hand-in-hand with his courage. At the distance of a few gun-shots from Yel- low-Rock, the huti'aloes made their appearance. 17* 2= *rj 9 t\ »' .' 'V- if' , y ^* V; • >./ • • 1 ■' ■ |/' •_ (-.: *■,'■,• ' % " V^ V-' ' 4 '» , .* .>. ' i * ■; 382 OREGON MIS SIGNS. One of them plunged into the river to avoid the death which threatened him, swam rapidly down the current, then suddenly tacked about to escape his pursuers ; and, finally, exhausted by his efforts, and unable longer to contend with his fate, came out of the river, and stretched himself upon the turf at the entrance of our camp, where his presence caused no other mis- chief than that of exciting the mirth of the women and children. Farther on, two bears were seen making their way through the bushes. The young people, who were the first to perceive them, announced their discovery by loud yells. Im- mediately, a Black-Foot, a friend of the Flat- Heads, sprang forward with the intention of giving the first blow to the common enemy ; but the sagacious animal, anticipating his de- sign, rushed from his lair, and fastened his enormous claws on the uplifted arm of the young Indian, whose situation would have been desperate, had not .i Flat-Head come to his assistance. A few days after, another converted Black-Foot, finding himself in the same circum- stances, and wishing to show that he knew better than his comrade how to kill bears, went OREGON MISSIONS. 383 er to avoid am rapidly eked about exhausted intend with d stretched nee of our > other mis- rth of the 3n making rhe young 3ive them, yells. Im- r the Flat- itention of )n enemy ; ing his de- stened his 'm of the have been Tie to his • converted le circum- he knew 3ars, went about it in the sam manner, and shared the sar e fate ; a punishment which his temerity richly deserved. Whilst we were encamped in this place, several chiefs of the Corbeaux tribe came to visit the Flat-Heads, accompanied by the flower of their young warriors. They spoke with en- thusiasm of the visit their nation had received from a Black-gown in 1842, and expressed great desire for the time to come when they, like the Flat-Heads, would enjoy the privilege of having Black-gowns always with them, to instruct them in heavenly things. They still observe the superstitious practices of the calumet. To render the odor of the pacific incense agreeable to their gods, it is necessary that the tobacco and the herb (skwiltz), the usual ingredients, should be mixed with a small quantity of buffalo's dung, and that the great pipe, after having gone round the lodge, should re-com- mence the circuit as soon as it arrives at the opening, without which ceremony they imagine it would be useless to smoke with their brethren, or incense, as they do, the heavens, earth, four cardinal points, and medals of Washington and Jackson. Nothing but misfortunes could await them. ,'^-i M 1 A.f .,4-. m :' * ; |^ * :1 • 384 OREGON MIHSIONSI. Whilst they remained with us, we buried a Pend-d'Oreille Indian, who had died shortly after baptism, strengthened by all the sacra- ments of the church. This ceremony, which was performed with more than ordinary pomp in honor of the visitors, was concluded by the solemn erection of the cross on the grave of the deceased. May the remembrance of these last duties paid to a departed child of the church, increase in the hearts of the Corbeaux the desire of knowing Him, without the knowledge of whom there is no salvation. The following day they returned to their own camp. \^/ The Pierced-Noses were now on their way id their own country ; the Flat-Heads, on the con- trary, were still in pursuit of game ; for, al- though the season was far advanced, they had not yet commenced to lay in their winter pro- visions. Early the following morning, we struck our tents and resumed our march. We had not proceeded far, when our attention was attracted by a herd of buffaloes quietly feeding in the beautiful valley at our feet. They were so numerous, that each of the hunters killed several. The slaughter of these animals was but the preluJe of that which was to take place on the following days. Our hunters brought in OREGON MIS.IOM^ 3N.-J e buried a iied shortly the sacra- , which was ry pomp in ded by the le grave of Qce of these f the church, ►rbeaux the ; knowledge le following ). \ ^ ;heir way t6 on the con- ne ; for, al- ed, they had winter pro- orning, we larch. We tention was etly feeding They were nters killed nimals was ► take place i brought in game in abundance. On one (K'r sion, t^ ^y re- turned laden with the spoils of A\ fat cows. We encamped in the very heart of the Black- Foot territory, yet the howling of wolves and tears, calling one another to their nocturnal repast, was the only sound that disturbed our repose. The hunting season is a time of rest for the missionary, of intimate union with his God, of renovation for his soul ! It was in this spirit I received, wit'i humble gratitude, the short but severe illness with which I was visited at this period. I regarded it, likewise, as sent me in punishment for the too natural pleasure I felt in contemplating the strange and varied scenes by which I was surrounded. During our encampment in this spot, I had the consolation of baptizing ten adults. An unexpected fall of snow warned us that it was time to think of our return. The chief accordingly gave orders for all to be in readi- ness to set out the following day. The weather was clear, but intensely cold ; and, suffering as I still was, from the effects of my recent illness, I had great difHculty in supporting its severity. We were, however, soon cheered by milder days, and warmer sunshine. Our young hunters were, once more, all animation. The pleasures tv. *J. '^^ 'J ., I- m 386 O R EG ON MISSIONS. of the chase were resumed as far as the good order necessary for the homeward march would permit. Even the children caught the general spirit, and bounded off in pursuit of some smaller animal, which the elated winner of the race never failed to bring back on his shoulder. We were now entering the defile where we had before met with such brilliant success. At almost every step we fell in with some straggler. At one time, an old decrepit buffalo ; at another, a fat cow, and sometimes a playful calf, whose dam had already fallen a victim. These ani- mals were an easy prey, and their capture was a new source of sport for the boys. On the 28th I retired to the summit of a neighboring mountain, to read the vespers of St. Michael. The atmosphere was unusually serene ; not a sound disturbed the silence of nature. I gazed on the quiet beauty of the scene, hushed, as it were, in the presence of God, and my heart dilated at the thought of the thousands of unconverted Indians, buried in the darkness of idolatry. Full of these thoughts, I raised my eyes, and, excited as my imagination was, it seemed to me that I beheld the arch- angel, Michael, standing on the opposite moun- tain, exclaiming, " Deluded nations ! Who is OREGON MISSIONS 387 as the good narch would the general ome smaller of the race oulder. e where we iuccess. At le straggler, at another, calf, whose These ani- !apture was immit of a vespers of 5 unusually silence of luty of the )resence of ught of the iried in the thoughts, I nagination the arch- •site moun- ! Who is like unto God ? " The voice resounded throus^h the forests — it was echoed by the deep ravines. I fancied it was heard and understood by the wild children of the woods ; their responding shouts rung in my ear. Yielding to the enthusiasm of my feelings, I hastily quitted my elevated position, and erected a wooden cross on the summit of a neighboring eminence. Some days after, a hunter discovered, near the half-con- sumed embers of an extinguished fire, a similar cross, to which a banner was attached. My first thought was, that it had been planted there by some Catholic, who had lost his way in the forest, and been devoured by the wolves. The Flat-Heads, however, well acquainted with the practices of their ancient foes, the Black-Feet, informed me that it was a custom among them to erect these crosses to the moon, in order to render her favorable to the robbery or chase, in which they were about to engage. This infor- mation dispelled the pleasing fancies in which I had indulged ; and painfully reminded me that the God-Saviour is yet far from being adored in these wild abodes. May we not hope that the time will yet come, when the banner of the true cross will wave triumphant o'er this benighted land ! it.- X V f M I IMfr II 388 UREOON MlSmONH. The obstacles which have hitherto prevented the missionaries from penetrating into the Black- Feet territory are now beginning to disappear, and there is every prospect of our soon being able to commence the glorious work of their conversion. The next day we entered a mountain pass, where the foot of man had seldom trodden, as was proved by the fact, that fifteen beavers were taken in one night by three hunters. Af- ter following for some time the circuitous wind- ings of the ravine, we came to an ascent so slippery, that at every instant I was in anticipa- tion of some sad catastrophe. Presently a sumpter-horse missed his footing and fell, roll- ing down the precipice. Who, that had seen him fall from rock to rock, would ever have thought, that in a few minutes he would be journeying on, laden as before ! Without utter- ing a single word, the guide made her way through the deep snow to the spot where the poor animal lay, unloaded him, raised him from the ground, replaced his burden, and brought him back to the rear of the troop. We continued our route until sunset, along the mountain's summit ; at length, after c forced march of ten hours, we pitched our tents on a H. OREGON MISSIONS. 38i) jrto prevented nto the Black- to disappear, nr soon being work of their lountain pass, m trodden, as ^teen beavers hunters. Af- cuitous wind- an ascent so IS in anticipa- Presently a and fell, roll- hat had seen lid ever have he w^ould be iVithout utter- lade her way ►ot where the ised him from and brought sunset, along after a forced ar tents on a beautiful island, where we enjoyed both securi- ty and repose. Surrounded by the waters of the Missouri, and abounding in rich pastures, this charming spot seems, as it were, destined by nature as a place of rest for the wearied traveller. It would have been impossible to contemplate without admiring the loveliness of the land- scape. From the southern coast of the river arose a ridge of mountain >, whose varied colors of blue, red, green, and yellow, gave them a striking appearanc » ; the effect of which was heightened by a small stream, leaping from rock to rock, in the form of a cascade, cooling the parched ground, insinuating itself into the crevices of the rocks, and giving birth to an in- finite variety of creeping plants, and flowering shrubs. — The island tself is beautiful beyond description. The scenery is diversifled by groups of t e majestic button-ball, which, in this country, is the giant of the vegetable kingdom. It was under the shades of one of these noble trees that our hunters prepared o c« h'brate the feast of the Maternity. The sun's last rays had long disappeared beneath the horizon, err all was n*a(ly for \\iv evt'iiing prayer. After which, not- withstanding the fatiguts of the day, a largo 5f 4 H ', 390 OREGON MISSIONS. ;^ ''I' fire was kindled before my tent, and the greater part of the night consecrated by these fervent children of the woods, to the reconciliation of their souls with God. The following day the Holy Sacrifice was celebrated with as much solemnity as the circumstances would permit. Of the ninety persons who then approached the table of the Lord, there was not one, who, since the departure from St. Mary's, had not commu- nicated every month. Several had enjoyed that happiness each week. During the evening of- fice nothing particular occurred. The eve of my departure the mothers brought their young children to receive my blessing ; and the chiefs erected a cross in token of their gratitude for the favors received during the hunting season. To this latter circumstance the island is indebt- ed for the beautiful name of St. Croix. The following day I bade farewell to my dear neophytes ; and, after joining in prayer with them for the last time, I set out on my return to St. Mary's. N. POINT, S. J. OREGON MISSIONS 391 I the greater hese fervent nciliation of ing day the th as much ould permit. )roached the 3, who, since not commu- enjoyed that evening of- The eve of their young id the chiefs gratitude for iting season, nd is indebt- 3ix. 1 to my dear prayer with my return to NT, S. J. No. XXVIIT. " Henceforward the Prayer op the Flat-Heads shall be ours." BY REV. P. N. POINT. We shall see what gave occasion to these re- markable words uttered by thirty-seven Black- Feet, who had fallen into the hands of the Flat- Heads. It is rare, at present, to find any Black-Feet, even among the most vicious tribes, who are not convinced that the Black-gowns desire their happiness. The following observations clearly prove my proposition: 1, the kind reception they gave the Black Robe, who was taken by sixty of their warriors : 2, the attention with which they listened to the Rev. Mr. Thibault, a Canadian priest, who fell in with a large company of them at Fort Augusta, on the River Sascatshawin : 3, sending back to St. Mary's, a horse belong- ing to a Flat-Head missionary ; a circumstance 1^ F-*/ ,^> .' 392 OREGON MISSIONS. I* - f .% 'J. f iN' I if •■ H ;J-. "« 'i: ,,'1 • ' i 4- ^- m In ^j 5, 'I i ^•; hitherto unheard of, in the relations of the Black-Fee^ with the Flat-Heads; 4, the confi- dence which several have manifested in the missionaries, on many remarkable occasions ; 5, the smoking of the calumet in the plain of the Great Valley, with a small number of Flat- Heads whom they might have killed without difficulty ; 6, the amicable visits they have paid the Flat-Heads by the persuasion of the hoary chief IVicholas, (baptized,) and the habitual residence of ^ everal of the tribe at the village of St. Mary's ; 7, the plunder of horses is incomparably more rare than during the pre- ceding years ; 8, the four years' cessation of any serious attack; though, formerly, not a hunting party passed witho ir, a sanguinary battle with the Flat-Heads. In proof of this, remember the sixty-five battles of old Paulin. If we add to all this, the providential and ad- mirable circumstance which occurred during the chase, and wliich we purpose relating, sure- ly, it may be permitted to form the brightest prospects relative to t'le religious conquest of this numerous tribe ; and I sincerely hope that an occurrence, which lately took place at St. Mary's, will contribute much to realize my desires. I OREGON MISSIONS. S9ii itions of the 4, the confi- fcvsted in the le occasions ; the plain of Tiber ofFIat- dlled without s they have uasion of the d,) and the e tribe at the der of horses iring the pre- cessation of merly, not a I sanguinary proof of this, f old Paul in. ;ntial and ad- urred during elating, sure- the brightest s conquest of »ly hope that place at St. • realize mv The 2d or 3d February, during the night, the dogs barked — a pistol-shot was heard — a mourn- ful silence ensues ! A thief, doubtless, had been wounded. The following morning, marks of blood could be traced as far as the river, which led to the conclusion that the robber had perish- ed in the waves ; but, three days since, George Sapime, whilst duck-shoo'ing, fcund the suffer- ing being among some bushes, so exhausted by loss of blood that he could scarcely stand. George might easily have despatched him on the spot, according to the savage custom; but he thought it better to return to the village and take counsel as to what seemed most expedient to be done with the hapless desperado. At this intelligence, numbers of Indians mount their horses and gallop off*, full armed, to the spot in- dicated. Whilst this was being transacted, the incident was related to Father Mengarini. Pel- chimo and Ambrose, two really brave Flat- Heads, who communicated the intelligence, thought it base to kill a dying man. The zeal- ous missionary conceived an ardent desire to secure the salvation of the culprit, by pouring on his soul the saving waters of regeneration. Pelchimo, seconding the good design, flies to the place, and arrives at the very instant when the K:' If . t 808 OREGON MISSIONS. i i , 4 ■'( 4, to St. Raphael, the guide of travellers ; 5, to St. Hubert, the patron of hunters ; 6, to St. Francis Xavier, for the conversion of idolaters. We shall see, that these pious aspirations were not addressed to Heaven in vain. The eve preceding the anniversary of St. Francis Xavier's canonization, the missionary administered baptism to a Black-Foot, whose example induced many others to solicit the like favor. The reception of the holy sacraments of penance and eucharist, w^as very frequent. There were 430 confessions, (children included), 350 communions, 103 of which took place the last Sunday. Only one person was left, in the camp ; he having recently made his first com- munion, did not renew it during the chase ; wherea , his companions approached two or three times, and some, even more frequently. The pious practice of saying the Angelus, re- citing the Rosary, and singing canticles, was maintained throughout the camp. The chiefs displayed their zeal for every species of good ; an unalterable patience was the distinguishing virtue of all, and this is saying much, if we con- sider the trials attending the hunting season. Their resignation to the Divine will, was strongly manifested. Curing twenty-four days they had I - OREGON MISSIONS. 399 Hers ; 5, to ; 6, to St. f idolaters, ations were 5ary of St. missionary Poot, whose icit the like craments of •y frequent, n included), ok place the \ left, in the is first com- the chase ; lied two or frequently. Angelus, re- mticles, was The chiefs es of good ; stinguishing :h, if we con- iting season, was strongly ays they had been toiling onwards, undergoing much suffering from a rigorous abstinence, when the news was spread that a herd of buffaloes had been seen in the environs. The Indians repaired thither, but it was to encounter a keen disappointment. Thus, the poor Flat-IIcads found themselves constrained either to fast or seek food in the country of the Black-Feet. As their horses were in a better condition than those of the other tribes, they resolved to risk the dangerous expedient. Four days they traversed heights and floods: the weather was cold and snow lay on the ground ; no animals were to be seen. At last, on Wednesday in Ember- week, the mission- ary Avarned his little flock that the moment was propitious for addressing Heaven to implore the goods of earth ; but, he added : " if you wish the Divine bounty to shed on you His gifts, you must promise not to abuse them." His words were attended to with deep emotion, and each savage, according to the Indian expression, " Arranged his heart and began to pray." The next morning, (Thursday), herds of cattle were seen in the neighborhood ; and on Friday and Saturday so many were killed that their great number encumbered the lodges. Already was the camp on its homeward 1 if r f V I » ; . ' ■ > • ■ \ * .1 ^i Hi 400 OREGON MISSIONS. march, when, 12th March, the chief, reaching the top of a mountain which commanded an ex- tensive view of the plain, suddenly stopped — and after gazing fixedly for some time, discover- ed moving objects at the verge of the horizon. At first, those around him imagined they saw buffaloes ; next, they fancied they could discover a herd of deer ; the final conclusion was, that an armed party of Black-Feet rapidly approach- ed them. What was to be done ? Victor, the chief, lost nothing of his usual presence of mind. He calmly quitted the head of the camp, mounted his horse, and making the animal perform a few evolutions, he was instantly surrounded by the bravest of his band. Isaac proposed prayer. — Victor exclaimed : " Let us wait until the Black-Feet show themselves yonder." Saying these words, he pointed out a second mountain which concealed us. Never had any position offered more advantages. The Black-Feet were climbing the opposite side — they were already fatigued. Between the mountain and the chain which crowned the horizon extended an im- mense plain, without either tree, ravine or river that could offer them the least rampart. They were but thirty-seven in number, newly exer- cised in arms, and on foot. The Flat-Heads, on OREGON MISSIONS. 401 the contrary, were on horseback, numbered fifty, in the flower of age, all well armed and con- ducted by chieftains whose shadow would put to flight more enemies than were now approach- ing. Besides, Victor was at their head ; he who had never been conquered, and what is more, not even wounded, though six different times he had been encompassed by the Black-Feet. The marked protection of Heaven had thus manifest- ed itself in his favor ! The enemy, then, could not escape them. All eyes were strained towards the spot indi- cated by the chief, expecting the approach of the foe. Victor judges that there is " periculum in mora ; " he casts a smiling look on the mission- ary, raises his fire-arms, utters a yell, urges on his steed, and flies to the combat, followed by the bravest of the land. Perceiving their ap- proach, the Black-Feet took to flight, casting away all that embarrassed them ; but beholding themselves hemmed in on all sides, they endeav- oured to rally ; the Flat-Heads hasten towards them ; Victor's horse having been lately wound- ed, Fidele, Ambrose, Isaac, Ferdinand, and Emanuel, passed their chief, and arrived first in front of the enemy. Fidele spoke not ; but his warrior name, signifying Thunderbolt, sufficient- 18* L^<1 Hm wr h J f ■ •' rM \i •'A % '5*' t^- .1 ^^ i '♦,•• r^, ' ■' 1^ : . ■ T'- f il-V'^'-" ^ 402 OREGON MISSIONS. ly declared his courage. Ambrose announced him by that title, which causes the Black-Feet to turn pale, and added, in a terrible voice : "Fire not! If you fire you are dead men!" God spoke by his lips. Instead of firing, one of the Black-Feet threw down his gun, whilst seve- ral others extended their arms, in a supplicating attitude. The brave Ambrose refused not the pardon his enemies solicited ; for true courage will never bathe itself in the blood of a con- quered foe, who appeals for mercy, and whose conversion has been begged of Heaven. The generous warrior willingly extends his hand to the foe ; and allj imitating his example, show that clemency has conquered. At this happy moment, when such Christian sentiments per- vaded every heart, the BlacJf-^own advanced, find the conquered foes ofl>;red him their hands, and, spreading a bufllilo-skin on the snow, in- vited him to seat himself, and receive the honors of the calumet. Whilst the smoke of peace as- cended towards heaven, presents were offered, and received, on both sides. The oldest of the Black-Feet band, seated on the left of the mis- sionary, presented him a pair of Indian mocca- sins, and, strange to say, they were embroider- ed, with a blue cross standing out conspicuous- OREGON MISSIONS. 403 announced Black-Feet ible voice : ead men ! " ring, one of whilst seve- 5upplicating sed not the •ue courage d of a con- and whose aven. The his hand to mple, show this happy iments per- 1 advanced, their hands, e snow, in- e the honors >f peace as- ere offered, >ldest of the of the mis- Uan mocca- embroider- :onspicuous- ly from the surrounding work. The poor idoki- ter ! did he, at that moment, think of the "quam speciosi pades ? " Most probably not ; but, it is certain, he remarked the pleasure caused by his present, and felt an assurance, from the manner in which it was received, that, hence- forward, all hearts would be united. The Flat-Head camp set out on their return. The thirty-seven Black-Feet followed them. The thawing of the snow rendered the roads ex- ceedingly bad, and the kind-hearted Flat-Heads, compassionating the fate of their new friends, did all they could to help them on their journey. Before separating, Victor conducted the princi- pal Black-Feet into the missionary's lodge, that he might witness their parting good friends ; and, during half an hour, every thing was said that could strengthen the new-formed friendship between the tribes. The Black-Feet told us, that for some time past they had been expect- ing a Black-gown, and that, when he should come among them, he would be well received ; that, henceforth, they and the Flat-Heads would live like brothers ; " that the prayer of the Flat- Heads should be theirs." And, although the sun had set, they assisted at prayers ; after which, 404 OREGON MISSIONS. 1? i < * w -^ I ' a . they exchanged some tokens of friendship, and left, declaring that they were going to persuade their village to act as they had done. The 19th March, feast of St. Joseph, seven days after the pardon so generously granted the Black-Feet, Heaven bestowed on us the fruit of our forbearance in the amicable visit of the grand chief of the " Petite Robe, Itchetles Mel- akas — or the three crows." All the chiefs smoked with him under the missionary's tent. Ambrose explained to him the Catholic Tree ; Victor invited him to pass the night in his lodge. Such attention completely gi; ^H his heart; and the next morning the Bla i ' oot communicated to the missionary the resolution he had formed of soliciting the admission of his twenty-eight lodges among the Flat-Head tribe ; and that he would repair to the village of St. Mary's for that purpose, towards the decline of the present moon. During the night of the 19th some Black-Feet, belonging to a distant tribe, stole into the camp of the Flat-Heads and carried off five horses ; but one of the robbers fell, pierced with balls, and two strokes of the knife. It would be diffi- cult to describe the horrors of that night ! the OREGON MISSIONS. 405 idship, and to persuade seph, seven granted the the fruit of ^isit of the hetles Mel- the chiefs nary's tent, holic Tree ; ight in his g'ii; ""d his Bla ! ' oot 3 resolution ission of his Head tribe ; llage of St. e decline of Black-Feet, o the camp ive horses ; with balls, uld be difR- ; night ! the savage yells, mingled with the sound of thunder, and report of musketry. The miserable des- perado, by the lightning's glare, could be per- ceived on the ground, streaiaing torrents of blood from his wounds, and his unhappy soul about to quit the agonizing body, to find in eter- nity the chastisement due to its crimes. What else could the minister of God do, in such a cir- cumstance, but pray the Father of Mercy to perform a miracle of grace in favor of the crimi- nal. The Flat-Heads have abolished the barbarous custom of reeking their vengeance on the mu- tilated body of their enemy. They even carry their generosity so far, as to give sepulture to all who die among them. The robber owed his grave to the bravest of the Flat-Heads, the chief of a numerous family, and the adopted father of two children, whom the Black-Feet have rendered orphans. The following day offered nothing remarka- ble, if I except the many proofs of solid virtue displayed by the camp. To afford them plea- sure, the missionary amused himself in his leisure hours tracing with a pen several histori- cal facts, drawn from their annals, and suited to 1 if ; I, : ^i .1 j I ■ :•? .Y, 406 OREGON AIISSIONS. their tastes ; such as, march of the camp, divers occupations, labors of the chase, feats of arms, singular tragic scenes, religious ceremonies, &c., &c. It would be difficult to relate the pleasure this little collection gave them ; and, what is still better, it contributed powerfully to raise the authority of the chieftains in the estimation of the young men, and to excite in them a noble emulation in the practice of good ; for expe- rience has clearly proved, both in civilized and uncivilized society, that this quality is not only a stimulus to noble actions, but a greater pre- ventive of evil, than all chastisements united. Human ingenuity is useful, but it can do little towards the salvation of souls, if it be not joined to fervent prayer. Every missionary should be convinced of this truth. Our pious neophytes have experienced the efficacy of frequent re- course to Heaven. Each day they had invoked the Sacred Heart of Jesus, and the Holy Heart of Mary ; and the first Friday and Saturday of March proved the most successful hunting days. We had invoked the patron of hunters, and our chase was relatively fortunate. We had im- plored the protection of the glorious St. Michael, and never did our chiefs display greater valor OREGON MISSIONS. 407 mp, divers s of arms, lonies, &c., e pleasure d, what is o raise the imation of m a noble for expe- dlized and is not only reater pre- j united, an do little not joined should be neophytes 'equent re- ad invoked loly Heart Saturday of nting days. Ts, and our '^e had im- >t. Michael, eater valor in tl e presence of the enemy. We had entreat- ed the Apostle of the Indies to obtain the con- version of the Indians, and one party of Black- Feet falls under our power, whilst the other amicably visits us, and departs, exclaiming, " The prayer of the Flat-Heads shall be ours." In fine, we had taken St. Raphael as our guide ; our journey was long, fatiguing, and perilous, nevertheless, no serious accident occurred, though we often fell on the ice and rocks. Not a hunter in our camp was there who did not re- mark this manifest protection ; and nearly all testified their gratitude to God by a fervent communion. On Passion Sunday one hundred and three approached the holy table. The evening of so happy a day was crowned by the erection of a cross, to which they gave the name of Eugene, because the previous evening a quiver of that excellent Flat-Head, and a letter written on a piece of skin, after the Indian fashion, apprised us that he had been massacred in the neighbor- hood by a party of Banax. We then remem- bered, with consolation, that, on Ash Wednes- day, a few days before his death, he came to see us, and during his stay received th(^ holy commu- il;l '^ i i M A' Iw^ i •I 1 :r 408 OREGON MISSIONS. nicn. Thus, all seemed to concur, even this death, in causing us to bless the Divine Bounty which ever watches with paternal care, to sup- ply the necessities of his confiding children. m ml ^1 5f# I AD MAJOREM DEI 6L0RIAM. 1 , even this ine Bounty are, to sup- lildren. OUR FATHER, IN THE Siat'^cab anb Penb-b^^reille Conguagc. THE SIGN OF + THE CROSS. Skwest kylc-e-oii, Onls kezees, Ouls Saint Pacnagt. In the nuine u( the Father, and of the iSon, anil ot'tholluly Chost. Komiectzfgail. May it be so. Kyle-c-nu Itchi' .'neinask, ask west kowukshamcnsheiu, a-i-lctzcmilkou Our Father of heaven, moy thy name be respected every where ye-elskyloog. Entziczie telletzia spoe-oez. Assintaiis ye-clstoloog etzagcei on the earth. May thou be master of all hearts. Mny thy will be done oa earth as it is Itchitchemabk. Koogwitzclt yettilgwa Inkaitsiapetzincin. in heaven. Give us this day nil our wants. Kowaeksmecmillem klotaiyc kloistskwcn etzageel kaitskolgwclem Forgive us the evil we have done as we forgivo klotaye kloistskwen klieLskyloeg koayalokshilem takack.skwcnteia the evil done unto us by others. Grunt us thy hel|) to avoid klotaye kowaeksgweeltcm klotaye. Komietitzcgail. evil but deliver us from evil. JSluy il be siu. OUR FATHER, IN THE FLATBOVV AND KOETENAY LANGUAGE. Akikliai Stailoe, Akaltes, Saint Kilkiltlui. In the name of the Father, and of the iSon, and of the Holy Ghost. Schacykiakakaaike. May It be so. Katitoe naitle naite, akiklinais zcdabitskinne wilkane. Otir Father, who iirt in heaven, may thy name be grfat and honoured. Ninshalinne oshcmake kapaik akaitlainam. Re thou the muster of all hpurts. Inshazctluit^ younoatnake yckakackinaittc May thy will be done on earth as it is in heuven. Komnakaikc logenie nic-genawaishne naiosaem miaiteke (irnnt us this day all our wants. Kekepaimc nekoetjekoetleaitlc ixzcai, I'orjE^ive us all the evil we linve done lyakiakakaaike iyazcaikinawash kokakipaimcnaitlc. ns we forgive all the evil done unto us. Amatikezaw^s itchkestshimmokakkow^llc akatak/cn. Strengthen us against all evil, and deliver us fiom it. Shaeykiakakaaike. May It be so. f J' H^}0. v- ki\ OUR FATHER, IN THE ASSINIBOIN LANGUAGE. Tnchiachttoobe machpiachta yaeoenshi ba-eninshi Our Father heftven who art there let it nabishi nietshalzilzi, Nitanwiadezi, cktyyaegnizi, be great, thy nurne, thy kingdom come, yetsihueszizi aittshaiszi lenmachkoetzizi aseettshaiszi machtpiachta thy will be done on eiirtli as it is in heaven, Tnkocm nangaak uezuezandie innimbechain, give us this day the means of life, ezieyakink taniozeni etchoengoebezie sinkimbishnitsfaaa ektaes look over our evil doings as we look over those who do etchoengoebezie. evil unto us. Youoechtontjen tanniaesni ctchoem goebishniet tchain, Guide us that we not full into evil, napeen giettshioenn ingninnaege. Eetchees. and drive olf all evil from us. Amen. m V- f ' 1 tffV ■I |< OUR FATHER. IN THE CREE LANGUAGE. Eokosisit mina, ewiotawit raina, emiosit manito, owigowionik. Him who bus a Son, him who bus a Father, him who is the beautiful Spirit, in his name. Pitone Ekeesiikik. May it be so. Notanan kits! kijikok epian pitone mewaitsikatek kiwigo\rin, pitone Our Father in the great heaven being seated, may it be honoured thy name, may it otitamomakad kitibcitsikewin, ispits enatota kawigan kitsi kisikok, arrive thy kingdom (reign) likotlice being followed in the great heaven, pitone ekusi iji waskitaskamik. Anots kakijikak miinanipakweji may it be the same on earth. Now in this day give us our ganiminan mina latwaw kigigake. Canisi kaiji kasenamawayakik bread and in every day. As we have remitted to tliose ka ki matsitota koyankik ekusi iji kasinamawinan eki who to us have done evil so likewise remit unto us what we matsitotamank. Pisiskeiminan kitsi eka matsi mamitoueitamank have done evil. Be merciful to us that we fall not into evil, iekatenamawinan kamayatok. Pitone Ekeesiikik. keep away from us all what is evil. May it be ao. JAGE, zi machtpiachta in heaven, tsfaaa ektaes who do am. OUR FATHER, IN THE BLACK-FOOT LANGUAGE. Kikan&lzeniekasin ochkoeye tokakisint Of the Father in his name, of the Son, of the Holy Ppirit. Kamoemanigtoep. May it be so. Kinana spoeests tzittapigpi, kitzinnekazen kagkakomimokzin. Our Father in heaven who art, thy name, may it be holy. Nagkitapiwatog neto kinyokizip. Thy reign may it arrive. Kitzizigtaen nejakapestoeta tzagkom, nietziewae spoegsfs. Thy will, may it be done on earth as it is in heaven. Jkogkiowa ennoch raatogkwitapi. i All we need, this day unto us grnnt. Istapikistomnkit nagzikarao^t koroonetziewae nistowa Forgive the evil we have done as we pardon the wrong we have received, Nagkezis tapi kestemo6g. Help us against sin. Speininu6k mat^akoziep makapi. Kamoemanigtoep. From all what is evil deliver us. May it be so. igowionik. e beautiful Spirit, '■ Ekeesiikik. be so. wigowin, pitone anoured thy name, n kitsi kisikok, the great heaven, iinanipakweji ve us our tiamawayakik >1 to those ki hat we itoueitamank ivil, Ekeesiikik. le lo. OUR FATHER, IN THE POTAVVOTOMIE LANGUAGE, j + TcHlBiATlKONiKKWiN— sign of the Cross. Olinosowinig Weosimit, ipi Wekwissimit, ipi menojuwepisit Mennito. In the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Spirit. Ape iw nomikug. Amen. Noeiitan — our Father. Nosinan Wakwik ebiyin ape kitchitwa kitchilwa wenitamag kitinosowin, enakosiyin ape piyak kitewetako tipu wakwig, ape tepwetakon chote kig. Ngom ekijikiwog michinag mamitchiyak ponigetedwichinag kego kachi kichiinakineyi ponigclcdwoiket woye kego kachi kichiimidgin, kinamochinag wapatadiyak. Cbitchiikwan nenimochinag meyanek waotichkakoyakin. Ape iw nomikug. VOCABULARY. I ' ft .1 J** ' 1 1 r.|.' * Hair Forehead Nose Mouth Teeth Tongue Cheeks Ears Chin Neck i\rms Elbow Shoulder Hand Fingers Belly Back-bone Thighs Knees Legs Feet L'ps Eyes FLAT-HEAD BLACK-FOOT. CREE. CREE. Komike Notaknne Nistika-& 1 P6ak Tchilchemaiche Nonissi Miskutek 2 Nizo Spezaeks Nopisis Niakiwen 3 Nisto Spelimetzim Naoji Tapisker 4 Neou Gataig NogpikiSt Nepita Dn'iii 5 Nianen Taigoetzetze Naelzintii 6 Koutonazek Shilkzemoos Nozip )inuin Nnnawai 7 Tepeko Ciiine Nogtokie Nigtawake 8 Eimneo Koiaipaits Nogpiskinny GwaeskonSou 9 'J'egametata 1'cliesspin Nogkokinne Nikwayu JO Mitatat Stitchewagen Notezi'.e Nespiton Zintchen|)(>»kn Nogk'iinetsis Dossken ASSINIBOIN. Lintcheniilkoy Nogktt/.ikkie Digtiman 1 Katcheet Tchails Nogkiziiiiks Tzigtsliie 2 Num StBgtig Tommakiotketzis Neinezittzi- 3 Yamine Olin Nokoen schan 4 Toiiza Zintshametcliin Nogtazistkin 5 Znpita Zintzemoostche Noketokezinnen C Sliagape Tcoeininekaisne Noketokeziss 7 Shayoen Titchemuekshen Nieziekzinnen 8 SImgnoge Tzotchin Nietzigzip 9Nuintchoeank Speliemetzin Notoinish Ndon 10 Wi-ink Stitcliekoetkoltloest Nowaaps Niskisick Cheniine in- r f>i * PLANTS OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS Of tohich the botanical names follow . 1. Helenium 2. Sabbatia Angularis 3. Spigelia Marylandica 4. Geum Geniculatum 5. Rudbeckia Comentosa 6. Euchroma Coccinea 7. Astet Coccinnus. 8. Ilex Ligustrifolia 9. Convallaria Stellata 10. Chrysanthunum Arcticum 11. Aronia Amifolia 12. Polymnia Uvedelia 13. Frasera Caroliniensis 14. Ophrys, Malaxis 7 15. Sedum Stenopetalum 16. Prunus Duerinckii 17. Cantua Aggregata 18. Rudbeckia Purpurea 19. Actinomeris Squarrosa 20. Cardamine Bellidifolia 21. Houstonia Longiflora 22. Melanthium Monoicum 23. Liatris Brachystachya 24. Rhexia Mariana 25. Claytonia Spathulata 26. Aquilegia Formosa 27. Campanula Dirarica Cn.EE. I Peak 2Nizo 3 Nisto 4 Neou 5 Nianen 6 Koutunazek 7 Tei)eko J 8 Enaneo §ou 9 'i'egametata JO Mitatat A8SINIB0IN. 1 Katcheet 2 Num 3 Yamine 4Toiiza 5 Znpita G Sliagnpe 7 Sluiyoen 8 Sli(i<;iioge 9 Naiiitchoeank 10 Wi-ink Cliemino 1- opetalum rinckii regata 'urpurea Squarrosa iellidifolia ongiflora Monoicum ijstachya iana tathulata )rmosa )irarica