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6
-* — I ■ ■ ■ I' v ^fw^ ^r
Kutr.
Thf .Viimbtn irtW.rrtJ /.> *<> tawtu,
ihew iht iiitaiuf rtvm Albany.
{antiichivu
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A ;« s A r H r s E T T J!
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:'-■;*.
NOB
NORTHERN TOUR.
>.^'t '
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■sssesji^jggJSSK
NORTHERN TOUR
KKIifO
A GUIDE
TO
I SARATOGA, LAKK GEORGE, NIAGARA,
CANADA, BOSTON, &c. &c.
TURocau
irHB STATES OF PKNNSYIiVANIA, WEW-JER9ET,
NEW-YORK, VKBMUNT, NKW-HAMPSIUBE,
MASSACHUSETTS, IlHOnE-ISLANll*
AND CONNECTICUT J
EMBRICINS AN ACCOCST OF THK
j Cimal.1, Collegen, Public Iiutiluihns, Natural CuriotitieM,
and interciting ObjecJn thtrein
PHIIADELPHM.
II. C. CAREY & I. LEA.
1835.
^3S:^*>P-
A ^
f!6h
•^^
RASTEBN DISTRICT OF PENNSYLVANIA, to wit!
BK IT RKMKMBKHKD TJ,.^-m .he^h;j^^e«^ ^ay^of
..A Northern Tour: being . ""•J^'».«Ct!rnVnn.y"v';^X: N "v5S^r!
,„ e„nror,„Uy to the A.t of *« Cpngr.- of th.. Un. J^^^^^^
"All Alt for till- riiCTitrtir'nint ilL' "".S5V„.pri.t«»t of luch oooIm.
m«l.-, cl.»rt.,an.l hook., •" ''^ »» I;«"XVW"h.Tct, .i.litl. -1. ''An
duAnK the tim... Ihenm '"^ '""'Iv,,*' a„ At" lor the ^ncour.Kement
Act «r.pi.lem.iitaiy to .n Act, 7"';'" ' ."^J,,, ,, ,„d booki, to the au-
orUiin.'.K, l-y ?-'""»jF ^VS,d.rinKthr ml. therein mentioned,'
ra^rt'lSr" eSr.;'t.\h;P'';n.l .-rt. or d.,lgninK. -.gravn.,,
.iidetuhiughTHturiiftl and "ther print,.
M ^
"l.ydU H^Miiile>^.Fi;'JLt'j:-
t .j» «,*wH<»
*»*«iB4s«^8!^K^^R-^
,^.s^'d
LVANIA, lowlt!
. T»i»t on the thlrtiilli .n»l., College?, PubUo
interetting ObjecU therein.
eu of the United Statei, intituled,
riling, by ircuring the .'" gp .'
J\
•y ADVEBTISEKEM.
In passing throuRh the state of New-York, a traveller w^U
find a vast mass of information in the works of Mr. Spaflor.l,
a gentleman who has collected, with extraordinary diligence
and accuracy, an immense number of useful facts, relative at
once to its history, antiquities, institutions, geography, and I
cori-nerce. The travels of Mr. Darby tln-ougl» the sam. .
state abound, like his other works, with a great deal of valu-
able informaf.on and many ingenious specuUt.ons. Mr. S.I-
liman'9 Tour from Hartford to Quebec is in the hanas of.
every one, equally delightful from its profound science. lU
riowing dercriptions, and its liberal sentiments. All that is
interesting with regard to New-England, is combined m the |
volumes of Dr. Dwight. a scholar and a poet, who has de-!
scribed her history with the elegance and research of the
one. and deUneated her native beauties with the ardent per-
ceptions and expressive language of the other.
To these vriters we have been indebted for much valu-
able matter, and to them we would refer such travellers asl
seek for more extended information than the size and charuc
ter of this little volume would permit us to hitroducr-
PMladelphia, June 1, 1825.
RorTE n
r f . j j»w» !b i j JiW^-T*;
"""■^m
J\
EM-.
New-York, a traveller will I
the works of Mr. Spafl'ord,
ith extraordinary diligence
r of useful facts, relative at
istitations, geography, and
Darby tlu-ougli the same [
3, with a great deal of valu-
ious speculations. Mr. Sil- 1
auebec is in the hands ofj
im its profound science, its
ral sentiments. All that is I
ingland, is combined in the j
ar and a poet, who has de-
egance and research of the
eauties with the ardent per-
e of the other,
en indebted for much valu-
ould refer such travellers as
tion than the size and charuc
ermit us to hitroducft.
CONTENTS.
RorTE FROM Philadbiphia to Nkw-Yohk . . .
New-Yobk to Sabatooa - - - -
Excursion to Olenn'n Folk, and
Lake George
Albany to ths Falls of Niaoaba
Falls of Niaoaba to Qcbbsc - -
MONTBBAL to AlBANT . . - - -
BrBLisroToK to Bostok . . . -
Albany to Boston
Excursion to Nahant - - - -
VusTON to New-Yohk
14
67
79
162
212
236
246
262
264
i'-V
M , .
i^KSSsp;-
, r>viff! t' J: W ! '''>! Mf^ S!P*''V"-^''W^^^^9^^
INtl
it has
Ihe citi
tumnal
Union,
ropean
ment, I
Atlanti
our CO
mannei
It is
which
amid i
glory t
succesi
custon
post a
times-
which
to the
man n;
whole
ren wi
I prospe
^andi
word,
field, i
X"»g*r*ba«»*9fe?*'--
(WiW^^"^
f*WF!^?5IS!^^
NORTHERN TOUR.
IN the gratification of a reasonable and uRcfiil curiosity,
It has of late years become a custom with a large portion of
Ihe citiEcns of the United Stites, to pass the summer and au-
tumnal months in a tour througli the northern section of the
Union. The idea which so long prevailed, of making Eu-
ropean countries the only field for observation and amuse-
ment, has passed away ; and while a few ai-e led across the
Atlantic by a more ardent curiosity, the gieat majority of
our countrymen are content to gratify it amid congenial
manners and mstitutions in their native land.
It is true, the nations of Europe present scenes and objects
which are unknown to us ; tUncy may there indulge itself
' amid mouldering niins, dignified by all that age and classic
1 glory can impart ? philosophy may view the varied effects of
' successive revolutions, in eveiy age and in every climate— of
1 customs, which have bleuded the mdeness and ignorance ot
past ages with the splendour and refinement ot modem
times— of govei-nments, in ever>' form except th.it alone
which we have learned to prize— <)f civilization, here earned
to the highest point of luxury, there depressed as low as hu-
man nature can endure— of commerce, iu one age enriching
wliole nations, which in another are httle better than a bar-
ren waste— of ambition and national pride, destroying the
prosperity of extended regions, fi-om the mere desire of ag-
nandizement, or the support of unfounded pretensions j in a
word, the European traveller beholds around him a vast
field, in wliich improvement has graaually worked its way;
Uritfni <..«arism blended with tl,e tyranny which .8 not yet
SS^tur^lrrhLdin, down, ""S*^ Va^uJoUrse m^
&r& vSwtoVpmling'ufe delusions of a false am-
*'£tlTo\hemTo7 cL s Xr^-e'^rthy of their n-.
pomt out to "^"^.V; "'"" .-,,„.ri„ns on which it is useful and
^Ci::^toZX'ir^^^^^r.. at once a memo.ndu.n |
jaidsguide. • * ,
,:**^*?*»S!iKfe/-;^f^.'*,-
ovn.
avks of ancient ignorante,
itoms, and the remnants of
e tjTanny which is not yet
nt9 a fairer and a nobler
ndulge in brighter visions,
with more justice and de-
ll and the wilderness start-
'.ation i smiling villages ris-
issing into rich and lordly
manly and intelligent race,
red, trom their earliest fore-
institutions, which they ni
ininjurcd, to the countless
1 them. Nature here seems
dinary energies, and to have
scale— eveiy region teems
TicuUure — commerce smiles j
•and conscious and proud ot
lerica offers to other nations
aggi-andizc herself by inter-
r tlie delusions of a false am-
our investigation, and that
travellers who will not pre-
1 such it is the object of this
some of their excursions, to
which ai-e worthy of their no-
ms on which it is useful and
them at once a memorandum
noVTB FROM PHItADSLPIlIA TO NIV-TORK.
PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YOUK.
Birsct Route.
M. M,
Philadeiphia.
Cross Frankford Creek to Frankford - - 5 5
Holmcsbm-g 5 10
Cross Pennepack Creek
Poquasin Creek 2 12
Nesliaminey Creek * 16
Bristol - 4 20
MorrisvlUe l" 30
Cross Delaware River to Trenton - - - 1 31
jAwrenceville --6 3/
Princeton '^,
Kingston, on Millstone River 2 43
New-Brunswick 14 57
Cross Raritan River
Rahway on Rahway River 12 69
Elizabethtown 5 74
Newark - . - .- ^ ^"
Cross Passaic River
Hackensack River 484
Jersey City (PaulusHook) 5 89
Cross Hudson River to
Nbw-Vobk 2 91
Deviations.
1. Phihdelphia to Trenton by water.
Burlington, N. J. 1^
Bristol, P. 1 19
Bordentown, N. J. 9 28
Trenton, N. J * 33
m -^^'''''
■t^**!"<*i»5%V-;-^
BOtJTB JHOM PHlLADItPHIA TO RIW-tOBK
2. Sordentown to New-York.
M. M.
Cranberry ,V^
Spotteswood Q ""-J
Soutli Aniboy ° i"*
Cross to North Amboy jt -ii
New-Ywk (by steam-boat) ^x! ar
3. iVeM»-5ru»wu)^■cfr, % Staten Island, to New-York.
Woodbridgc , .
Staten Island Sound, New Ferry ' • ' [i ^^
Castleton It 22
Lazaretto *""""'''"'' eoy
iVeic-rwA; (by steam-boat) » '^'
4. By Elizabethtown Point to New-York.
Elizabethtown to
Elizabetlitown Point - •
New-York (by steam-boat)
10
2
12
PuuADEtPHiA to Tbbhtok, by Water, 33 miles.
Since the establishment of steam boats, this has become
the usual route, and the road is not often selected by tra>el.
lers esnecially in sunmicr. I'he passage by water .s indeed
SdXieeablei the views are more beautiful, and the river
Senti^a finer prospect above Philadelphia than it does
Fewer mn, Soon after leavingtl.e city, the shores pdually
coXcHnd offer bolder features than tl.e flat banks which
pS 'themselves to the eye of the U-avellcr on cnt ^-Je.
fn liis passage from Baltimore. The shores, but espec.aUy that
of Pennsylvania, are adorned by many snuhng villages, and
the country-seatL of gentlemen .^f Philadelphia At e.gl|teen
miles from that citp is Burlington, on the Jersey shore,
which, i
porate r
which g
houses,
reputati
in the n
On tl
distance
est cour
one thoi
and thoi
tlieir gn
shrubs,
ceeding
characti
whole SI
pie, an(]
tions, a
llissus,
taste.
Leavi
still mo
thickly
sent in 1
resquc (
sliore, ii
ble forei
sloops V
ton and
Durham
tlie sho;
eiideavo
by their
uninten
ness of 1
.ind silo:
esting.
Nine
on the J
ly from
it for a 1
York. '
Jfv^lf^
lA TO RIW-tOHH.
oint to New-York.
n, by water, 33 miles.
jam boats, this has become
not often selected by travel-
' passage bv water is indeed
more beautiful, and tlie river
e Philadelphia than it does
tlie citv, the shores gradually
es than tlie flat banks which
rtheU-avellcr, on either side,
•he shores, but esiiecially that
y many smiling villages, and
>f Philadelphia. At eighteen
igton, on the Jersey shore,
vmm
BHISTOt— BOnDENTOWN. 5
which, if its size and population are not adequate to its cor-
porate rank — that of a city, may, from its fine green bank,
wliich gradually declines to tlie margin of the nver, its neat
houses, its smiling aspect, and salubrious air, well merit the
reputation it enjoys, as one of the most charming retreats
in the neighbourhood of Philadelphia.
On the opposite bank of the Delaware, and at about the
distance of a mile from Burlington, \h Bristol, one of the pretti-
est country towns in America. Its population does not exceed
one thousand inhabitants; but the houses are in general good,
and those fronting on tlie river are built with great taste j
tlieir green lawns descencUng to its very margin, decked witli
shrub.s, weeping willows and other ornamental trees, are ex-
ceedingly picturesque ; and the house of Mr. Craig gives a
character of Attic beauty and exquisite simplicity to the
whole scene. It is formed oi\ the model of a Grecian tem-
ple, and is indeed, though with some variation in the propor-
tions, a copy of the beautiful temple of tlie Muses on the
llis.sus, one of the most enchanting remnants of Atlienian
taste.
Leaving Bristol, the passage up the. river becomes perhaps
I still more interesting. Though tlie banks are no longer so
thickly gemmed with couiitr)'-seats, yet they begin to pre-
sent in themselves something of a stronger and more pictu-
resque ciuu"acter, occasionally rising, especially on the Jersey
sliore, into abrupt cliffs, many of wliich are adorned with no-
ble forest trees. A liveliness is imparted to the scene by tlie
sloops which are constantly met, on tlicir way between Tren-
ton and Pliiladelphia, anil the inteiniediate villages. The
Durham boats too are seen stealing slowly and silently along
the shores ; tlic men enguged in poling them occasionally
endeavouring to relieve tlie tcdiousness of tlieir employment
by their songs, whose monotony would usually render them
uninteresting, but which, hannoniising with the placid still-
I ness of the water over which they are passing, and their slow
I .iiid silent progress along the shore, makes them not uninter-
I esting.
I Nine miles above Bristol, we reach Bordenioum, a village
Ion the Jersey shore. It is built on a lofty cliff, rising abrupt-
lly from the river, and an excellent road has been cut tlirough
lit for a new line of stages, estabUshed on this route to New-
I York. The road from Uordentown to South Amboy is » new
*2
i i.',i '.
iii
tmw^
* BOBDEXTOWK.
one, una presents little variety; it has, however, tl.c advantniie
"fbeinir 'lie shortest aistancc by land between New-York and
Philudclpliia. Dordcntown h a very pretty v.llajre, contiim-
inff about one hunched dwcUinj? houses, in ^ncral very well
built; and. like Hurhngton and Bristol, is a tavounte retreat
of the Philadelphians in summer. There is a circumstance,
however, connected with its history, which will render it
neculiurly interestinff to the travcliei— it was the residence
Sf theatre Fmncis Hopkinson, a name dear to the scholar as
C as wit and humour shall charm, and still dearer o the
mt?iot, as long as ardent devotion to his countr);'s good shal
E i.is adniiration and love. An anecdote is mentioned
with reir-ml to him, which it is believed, has never yet been
nubUshed. and which sliows that his merits were not known
To his ow,; countrymen alone. DuriiiK the ''evo utionary w.u-
a party of Hessians invaded Bordcntown so suddenly, th.it M.
Hopkmson's family had barely time to escape, ^c«^;>ng '
house and all it contained a pvcy to the invaders. Attei tin,
ret eat of the Uritish from Phila\'"l':J
beh nd him at his lidgings ; it was a i,ook that had belonged
to s librai-y at Hordentown, and on the blank page the
officer lad written in German, that he bad taken the volume
from tie library of Mr. Hopkinson, who wa-s a violent and
n^mSo sing rebel ; but' that, from the books and the phi-
^Sll'l^Sue' :;S^":;.s formeny the abode of one who
hJl so nobly distinguished himself in the defence .ml ser-
S of our country, must ever impart to t a charm in the eye
rfa traveller; yet perhaps, his sensibilities will not be less
awakened, when he beholds it now the residence of one who
hrSht its peaceful retirement after having been driven
fron t e palaceiof Europe-wlien he reflects that the brother
of a mighty Emperor, who nded nearly the whole of bu-
rope a^d himselV the sovereign of a g'-«='\"''^''"' '« ""^^^
humble citizen of New-Jersey, known perhaps more by h^
cSes^ and the benevolence of his heart, than by Uie high
'^SSXiif'thrltidence of the Count de Survilliers
tiosel Buonaparte,) is a fine estate of about five hundred
SS, exleS ^ols CrossAvick's creek, a stream which
inters the
out with ^
of a Rurc
present, c
thing to b
both resp
a few yea
hud the 1
nieiits ai'i
I splendid (
treasure t
will afl'or(
From 1
vcller to '
tlie termi
I'l
Leaviii
I village ii
As this s
I pliia, it h
turnpike
Frankfor
street, al
of .stone,
jfardens i
I with tre
I Frankfoi
in the n
1 in the v
I houses ;
1 numeroi
I ance.
From
I rection I
I creek.
J graduall
I the rive
^:>?» j^^ll^ffi** .
, however, tlie advantage
I between New-York und
y ])retty village, cont«ii\-
ises, ii\ Rcncral very well
istol, is a favourite retreat
There is a circumstance,
py, which will render it
lei- — it was the residence
me dear to the scliolar as
m, and still dearer to the
to his country's good shall
M anecdote is mentioned
icved, has never yet been
lis merits were not known
ing the revohitionaiy war,
town so suddenly, that Mr.
le to escape, leaving their
the Invaders. Alter the
phia in 1778, a volume w as
1 a Hessian officer had left
I a i)ook tliat had belonged
cl on the blank page the
t he had taken the volume
n, who was a violent and
rom the books and the phi-
, ho was certainly a man of
lerly the abode of one, who
clf'in the defence and ser-
part to it a charm in tlie eye
iens'.ljilitits will not be less
)w the residence of one who
It after having beci\ driven
n he reflects that the brother
d nearly the whole of Eu-
of a great nation, is now an
mown perhaps more by his
f his heart, than by tlie high
of the Count de Survilliers
;state of about five hundred
ck's creek, a stream which
tlUSHroHD— HOlMESBl'no.
inters the Delaware at nordentown. The grounds arc laid
out with great taste, and afi'ord in some degree a specimen
of a European park. The mansion of the Covuit docs not
present, cither In iU situation or exterior appearance, any
thing to he greatly admired, and is ceilainly fai- inferior in
botii respects to the old house, which was burned down
a few years since ; and wluch, placed ilirectly on the Point,
had the advantage of a noble view. The ii\terior arrange-
ments are, however, exceciUngly commodious i and tlu
splendid collection of paintings which adorns tiie rooms, is a
1 treasure that no other jnirt of the continent can boast, and
will artoid a traveller of taste the highest gi-atification.
From nordentown, a passage of hve miles brings the tra-
veller to Trmlun, the capital of the state of New-.ler8ey, and
the termination of steam-boat navigation on tlie Delaware.
I'HiLAnEtPHiA to Tbestox, % hiul, 31 milex.
Leaving Philadelphia by the great eastern road, the first
I village is that of Fraukford, about five miles from the city.
As this stage may be considered as an environ of Philatlel-
nliia, it has all the character belonging to it; the road is a fin6
turnpike, and the countiy is level, with gentle undulations.
Fiankford is a very pretty village, consisting ot one main
street, about a third of a mile in length ; the houses are built
of stone, or board, neatly painted, and suiTounded with little
trardens ; and the road being wide, is planted on each side
with trees in front of the houses. The country around
Fmnkfonl is agi-eeable, and foi-ms from the numerous villas
in the neighbourhood, one of the most cheerful residences
in the vicinity of the city. It contains about one hundred
houses ! and, though it has no staple manufacture, yet the
1 numerous shops, stores and taverns, give it a busy appear-
From Frankford, tlie road proceeds in a north-eastern di-
rection five miles to Ilolmesburg, a village on the Pmnepack
I creek. On tlve right, as tlic country recedes from the eye, it
gradually becomes more and more level for about a mile to
the river Delaware, along whose margin it descends into mea-
nnisTot— MonmivH.".— TiiENTOx.
3
wcxrIs villas and occas onal g;liini>HCH of the n\cr, lhoii(fli in.
nmd in notlufficiently elevated to afford any very extennne
''^r"t'K Holmclrg the road cn,sse.the Po,u.W.
ere k. fo r milcH further the W,««««ey, and ... four mo.^e
we reach Bristol o., th" Delaware. The so.l » ... h'cne.~al
h,anlv mixed with pavel, a.id a Hubstrutum of soft „..caceo,.,
JSr he aspect of the co...,t.y is plv^sinB. the reach of
™ect often extensive, and prescthiff goml farms, the
^ r, ne.a a..d freq..e..tly eleg.!..t. a.id the whole bespeak-
r^ character of cLfort ami wealth in the ow..o.;s, ...deed
Zv are ™ny either respectable eo„nt.y KCtlernen, or
SlLns wh have retiredfrom Phila.lclphiatohecomefarn.ers.
pSB'^tol. the road proceeds for a few m.les along
the shore of the r ver, which it the., leaves, a..d takes a d.-
ectcouM toMun-;..///., t....miU:s from Br.sto , and s.t..ate
on the bn..k of the I)elawa.-e opposite « Irento... llns
^,wn tikes its nan.e from Mr. Hobe.l Mon.s, a..d exhibits an
rrtunate scheme of a .na,. whose min.l was perhaps as
L,Sr"sthat of a..y one of his ag. , but whose .Ics.gi.s proved
^ til e ly too vast for that age to rcali/e. Tak.ng adva..tap
of the rapids in the Delawa.'e, Mr. ^'''.f"* *="" f" ?^^lnt o
eec foiof most extensive ma...ifactunng establishmen s, to
acco.n.nod..te which this tow., was laid out, but the u..de.-tak.
W wa^not suited to the existh.K state o the count.y, %Na
MOO. neldected, a.,d evenU.ally tun.bled i..to r...... One o
le ho. ses, a lumdsome buildi..g h.tc.ded for the residence o
Mr.SSwHsafte.wanlsocc,.piedbylheceleh.-ated
^.M^eral Moreaa. From Morrisvi\le the road c-osses the Dela-
Ce on a substantial wooden bridge, erected ... the year
1805, to Trenim.
Tbknton to Nb-w-Yobe, 60 miles.
T,P«tnn the capital of New-Jersey, is a neat country town,
co.Sn? about ?our tho..sand inhabitants, though .ncorpo-
Xd^as a city. The situation of the town .s open and plea-
* T,u\ t^ elevation above tlie river affords a pleasmg
Spe^uiVwSsclosedhyhighh^^
Hne colmtiy of Pennsylvania on the western shore.
Uiit
I al Wft
II n eve
best p
the sin
(ii'spon
ik'spait
had be
the Dri
as they
vasion
ever w
sive nif
in. parti
way to
of me s
fortune
lidl of
rnemy
nclled
battle \
self vc
brggc^
(langfer,
tions oj
01. the
" Gentl
Leav
of a lig
settlecf
where 1
approai
iigh a.i
and eatj
(icea.i, i
vesink
north, t
iKites ir
prospec
txccpt
a few g
along t
jeautifiilly varicffftted with
Kcsofthe river, lli(ni(fh tin-
) uflbrd any very extensive
e road crosses the Poqwain
humhiey, and in four more
re. The soil is in h'eneral
ubstrutum of soft micaceous
y is pleasing, the reach of
>rc8cnling goinl farms, the
nt, and tlie whole bespeak-
/calth in the owiui-Si indeeit resource,
as they were, couKl oppose no obstacle to the successful in-
vasion of the middle states. The genius of Washington how-
ever was equal to the occasion, and by the acts of one deci-
sive night, he robbed them of the fruits of a whole campaign,
imparted new bope and vigour to our cause, and opened the
way to eventual triuniph. Taking advantajfe of the festivity
of the season, when tlie British were carousmg over the fallen
fortunes of their adversaries, he crossed the Delaware, though
full of ice, in the middle of a stormy night, attacked the
f nemy early in the morning, and after a severe conflict com-
pelled them to surrender at discretion. It is said, that as the
battle was about to commence, the General had placed him-
self very fai- in advance; observing this, his aidesnle-camp
begged him to retire where he would be less exposed to
I (langper, and equally able to superintend and direct the mo-
tiona of his troops; but appearing to have staked every thing
on the event of this conflict, he calmly replied to them,
" Gentlemen, from this point I only go forward."
Leaving Trenton, the road continues through a countiy
I of a light sandy soil, and not very fertile; though it is well
I settled with good farms. At six miles we reach Laujrencevitie,
I where the soil changes to a dark earth oi' light texture. As we
I approach Frinceton, four miles farther, the country becomes
I high and open, aflbrding many noble prospects; to the south
land east, it stretclies in aflat sandy plain to the shores of the
Idcean, along which are seen rising the highlands of the Ne-
Ivesink hills, giving a rich termination to the view. To the
Inorth, the countiy becomes more and more hilly, till it termi-
liiutes in a distant blue ridge. Princeton itself commands a fine:
Iprospect, but has little besides the college to reconmiend it;
li'xcept this, the town consists chiefly of taverns, stores, and
la few good dwelling-houses, straggling for neaily half a mile
Jjlong the road side. 'I'he College is a large plain stone build-
.\«
10
rniscKTO!*— i»KW-Bnr5iwi(K.
i„t.,al...Mt
cHtahlislc." it Princeton until 1757. The number o» .tu.Ui.tH
SIS one Imnclr.-., and it in --rtcl to mjt o.Uy by „
men from NewJrrsey, but from most ol the othci Htati*.
U 1 aHVlan2.n,e libmy and muxeum, with u ».>h^ collection
of ohilomn hical instruments, and within its walls have been
elCtcdiol the mo.tdiHtinp.ishea ci^'-';- J'^ -[ -
trv. The battle of I'rinceton was fought in the to^ n on tit
Sof Junuarv. 1777. It wasacm.tinuutionof the p an ^^^^^^^^^^
General WaihinKtcm Ud so nobly commenced at renUn,,
w'd was attended with e.iual success, lie is reported on tlus
o ia^on'o have exerted limself with ^rcat peminal bra^^^^^^
and to have been several times exposed to the most immi
"'?vSs from Princeton brinf,, the t^veller to J^^^^^^^^^^^
n V 1 aire on the MilM„ne river, and fourteen miles larthci, to
VewTnZclk. For the first few miles, the sod is barrcn;|nd
rtonv . b t as we proceed it improves, and on approaching
S'ter place thJ^countiy prese'nts a more agreeable aspect,
and is settled with numerous farm-houses.
Ntw.Bnm.noick is a p ca-sant town, or rather c'ty, tor it iias
thaVcornmX "^nk, situated on the banks of the Uantan, a
river wh^rLnavi^Aible for vessels of eighty tons, and whu;
rhe.^ nasied by a fine bridge of twelve arches, and foil
ilti^ mrfortv feet lonfff It contains a population ot
;S;^uSc^d Si^ons^ There are rr^-^^^^^,
esncciallv on the main street, which is broad, and s the res
Zee o/a number of genteel families. The town is very ol.l.
Jn was oriSly founded by the nutch. whose descendants
s^ comn. se a large proportion of its inhabitants. I he c.,1-
w JouK by tL Wut'ch clergy, though now no more tluin
.. .mLmmar school, is a handsome and spacious edihce.
•^"ng he bridge from New-llrunswick. the prospjc
on t le Uaritan. both above and below, is very beaut, ul, tka
a ov^ embmdng an extensive sweep, with elevated banks.
nred w?th i. and crowned by « «-»y.-£f t^ie
try The view down the river is not so estcnsne, but t lie
nmitiiMu '.ii aawB iMiw'W iaBBKgg"''
J
lii'iglit I
(jxerhan
l''or a
soil pre
I lew on
Karitan
hoy, siti
Kurituii.
buds of
At //.
the rive
ut AV/tH
rising a
iiihabita
by snial
:ire quil
tuun in
The s
tluough
liumlsoii
ilic pasa
Prom
miles, tl
ind mo»
seven tl
the Fm
cmirse t
To a tra
one of
tremely
' lended
lieme n
into the
wide, u
well-bui
lorned
Iniildin^
tensive.
Ontl
Ihe celc
passes (
freat in
y foot loiiK, tifty-f<>»>i' •It'Pp'
Mililiiiy urcliitiitinal mna-
lowcvir, NuKHttU-llull lioliN
; tliOHC of llii- llnilecvcn thousand iniiabitants, is situated on the west bank of
the Fastaic. river, six or seven miles above its mouth bj- the
cmirse of the river, though only two or three in a direct line.
I'o a traveller from the South, this town, which is certainly
one of tlie prettiest in the United States, will appear ex-
tremely interesting, as it is the first instance of tliat beauty,
' lended witii attention to public convenience, and to ex-
lieme neatness, wliich becomes more common as he advances
into the eastern slates. The main street is two hundred feet
wide, and forms a noble esplanade, along which are many
well-built houses ; there are five churches, some of them
lomed with handsome spires, and seveiul other public
buildings ; and tlic trade of the place is flourisliing and ex-
tensive.
On the Passaic river, fourteen miles north of Newark, are
Ihe celebrated fulls, and the village of Patterson. The road
passes over a redcUsh sandy soil, and presents a scene of
^eat interest and beauty. Three miles above Newark is the
'|i f
^\
i 'I
III !■
•HH I
- ^^■^ivs^mvpji^ss^i^i^iip'filu'iihit^^i^^
iBetM.'if*9fH*W*'-W
12
PATTEHSON.
wmmm
mmmm
'^""r-.nto ?rJeTit^ from^ft i hillB, which,
''^f rf f^SacSsNew Jefsey to the Hudson, appears to
cession to the ""'^;. ^,^,f l.^^X trlv el'er to the rock
the eastern bank o^themer^^^^^^^^^
r^H "^KSiy ' See? The hills around rise into lo ty
IftrdepthotsevCTtyiwoi ^^^^^^ ^^ ^.^^^^.
chffs <='™f^^^'*,\°^^^^^^^^^^ the dark hue
rushing o^erthe precipic. anu b j.^^, ^^^^ ,,^.
of tlie rocks continually *^f ^ ^'P *P^''y'i, contrasted with the
T "^f 'r TtSeXa^ ^r a &; a^stelow. and the
SarJ^oi'S^Sof tl^e woV/c-}Wf.
J4
BorTF. r»0M
NEW-YOUK TO SAUATOGA.
. Nbw-Yohk to AiBANT, by umler.
M. M-
New.Yobk to New-Jersey State line - - ^^ g
Stony Point 12 51
West Point '■ 359
Ncwburg - ! .' 14 73
Poiighkeepsie . . 15 88
Kingslo" 1 '. '. . 21 109
Catskill ..3112
Hudson . 28 X40
AUiimy
New-
Nkw-Yobk to AiBANT, along the Eastern. Bank of llu
Hudxon Iliver.
New-Yobr to Kingsbridge }■
PhiHii)sburg, on Sawmill river, ' ' [ '.J^ ^9
TaiTytown 6 35
Singsing - - '.'.'. 3 38
Cross Croton river ^ ^ 1 39
Croton '544
Verplank's Point " " ^ ^g
Peekskill - " " ' ' on fifi
Fishkill, on Fishkill creek, "71
Cross Napping creek, ^ g^j
Poughkeepsie ' - gg
Hyde Paik _ ^ yj
Staatsburg ' " 5 97
Bhinebeck '. '. 13 110
Clennont '" j^ jj^j
Jauseas creek *12 123
Columbian'ville, on Kinderhook creek, - 6 129
. ^,^J*^ii^4^^it^f^f^K&f^
AUATOGA
!»T, hy water.
M. M-
tute line - - 21
18 39
12 51
.... 8 59
14 73
15 88
21 109
.... 3 112
.... 28 UO
HKW-TOBK TO SAHATOr.A.
M.
Kiiulevhook Landing 5
s formed at first by the
citvUselTihln by Ss environs, V'!"!^"/ becoming less and
S compact, till they are succeeded by the villas, country-
seats, and small farms, which usually surround a >arge c t> .
Thrift is formed by the Jersey shore, on wh.ch are «c«"er.
ed the houses of the city of Jersey and Hoboken. the banks
RTadually becoming bolder as we Proceed , and about three
Siles above Pauhis Hook, the attention o the traveller « at-
tracted to the spot where General Ham. Ion was kdled by
KuitV on tlie 11th July. 1804. At Fort Lee, s.x mi ks
farther, the western shore becomes still more abrupt, and the
pSce higher, on the opposite bank, but about a mile
lho"I\^ F^t Uishin^ton- md though the hills are bold,
tCwe less perpendicular, and slope more gtadually to tl e
r£ Than those of New-Jersey. The nver is here upwa^
of a mUe in width. The same character conUnues until we
pLst^esmaH creek which leads to Kir,gsbridge. the bound-
s' of Uie city and county of New-York. The name givv
to this creek by the Dutch was Spyten puyml KM, or Sp -
tbg Devil ci-eefe ; a name probabfy confened on it by sonic
w ortliy
he enc
After t
cjuereil
miles u
Froii
bold i
liigh, e
teen ir
forms t
are kn
seem t
p'lisses
width I
tentio'i
face w
(lark c(
their ai
line wl
strikes
north tt
The
in widi
three i
Dutch
cautioi
plored
passug'
teresti]
its bea
ing pe
a class!
descrij
«Nc
across
cd she
bold I
ing in
up fi-o
upland
rocky
Now '
rwmnmff^r
— rniLUFSBURC.
by Waterford.
M.
Af.
y
2
u
15
26
3 29
8 37
1 with a description of the
rk ; one sufficiently minutft
n oiir little volume, and it
regular guide-books of the
it once, we shall endeavoiir
•ist, the objects which will
I the steam-boat along the
lit is formed at first by the
rradually becoming less and
2ded by the villas, country-
iually surround a large city,
shore, on which are scatter-
ley and Hoboken, the banks
e proceed ; and about three
tcntion of the traveller is iit-
ral Hamilton was killed by
14. At Fort Lee, six miles
^es still more abrupt, and the
site bank, but about a mile
i though the hills are bold,
1 slope more gradually to the
The river is here upwards
character continues until we
Is to Kivgsbridge, the bound-
few-York. The name givoii
9 Spyten Ihtyoil Kill, or Spi-
lably conferred on it by sonic
TAPPAN SEA.
17
w orthy burgomaster of yore, fi-om the tiwiblcs and dangers
he encountered, in exploring its almost endless windings.
After this the country is more tame, thoiigli beautifully che-
cjuered with wood and cultivation, as far i\»l'hillipsburg, five
miles above Kingsbridge.
From Fort Lee the Jcrsc;y shore becomes more and more
bold i its precipices, some of which are three hundred feet
high, extend in a regular and continued line for about four-
teen miles, where a large bay, running in to the westward,
forms the entnince of the Tappan Sea. These cliffs, which
are known by the name of the Palisades, are basaltic, and
seem to form a part of the fii-st great ridge of hills which
passes along the eastern side of the continent : they vaiy in
width from half a mile to two miles, and will attract the at-
tention of every traveller, from tlie lofty and perpendicular
face which they present. The rock is hard, fine, and of a
dark colour ; it was used in fonner ages by the Indians, for
their arrow-points. About twehe miles above Fort Lee, the
line which divides the states of New- York and New-Jei-sey
strikes the west bank of the Hudson ; and from that point
northward, both sides of the river belong to New-York.
The Hudson, which below had seldom exceeded a mile
in width, now spreads into an expanse of water not less than
three miles broad, which was denominated, by_ the ancient
J)utch navigators, the TappaanZee; and where, it is said, the
cautious Myiihcci-s always pnidentjy shortened siul, and im-
plored the protection of St. Niehohis, ere they crossed. The
passage, of eight miles, through tliis lake, is exceedingly in-
teresting, and might demand at our hands some delineation of
its beai'des ; but this has been already done by the enchant-
ing pen of the venerable historian of New-York, who imparts
a classic feeling to eveiy scene he has described, and whose
description the U-aveller will thank us for inserting.
« Now did the vessel of the gallant Peter, career it gayly
across the va.st expanse of Tappan Bay, whose wide extend-
ed shores present a variety of delectable scenery — here the
bold promontory, crowned witli embowering trees, advanc-
ing into the bay— there the long woodland slope, sweeping
up fi-om the shore in rich luxiuiance, and terminating in the
upland precipice — while at a distance a long waving line of
rocky heights, tlirew tlieir gigantic shades across the water.
Now wovud they paas where some little modest intervalj
b2
1 1
I
ill >'
,1' I
18
TAPPAH ifi\.
oDcnlnff amonir these stupendous scenes, yet retreating m
it were for protection into the embraces of the neighbouring
mountains, 'displayed a rund naradise, fraught with sweet
and pastoral beauties, the velvet tutted lawn-the bushy
copse-the tinkling rivulet, stealing through the frerfi and
vivid verdure— on virhose banks Aras situated some little In-
dian village, or peradventure, the rude cabin of some solitary
""•The different periods of the revolving day, seemed each
with cunning magic, to diffuse a different chai-m over the
scene. Now would the jovial sun break gloriously from the
east, blazine from the summits of the lulls, and sparkling the
landscape with a thousand dewy gems ; while along tlie bor-
ders of till' river were seen heavy masses of mist, which like
midniglit caitiffs, disturbe.l at his approach, made a sluggish
retreat, rolling in suUun reluctmce up the mountains. At
such times all was brightness and life and gayely— the atmo-
sphere seemed of an indescribable pureiiess and transparen.
cv_tlie birds broke forth in wanton madrigals, and Uie
freshening breezes wafted the vessel merrily on her course.
But when the sun sunk amid a flood of glory in the west,
mantling the heavens and the earth with a thousand gorge-
otis dyes— then all was calm, silent and magnihcent. The
late swelling sail hung lifelessly against the must-the sea-
man with folded arms leaned against the slirouds, lost in that
invohmtaiy musing which the sober grandeur of natwe com-
nands in the rudest of her children. Tiie vast bosom of the
Hudson was Uke an unruffled minor, retiecting the golden
splendour of the heavens, excepting that now and then a
bark canoe would steal across its surface, filled witli painted
savages, whose gay feathers glared brightly, as perchance a
lingering ray of the setting sun gleamed upon them trom
tlie western mountains."* c ^^
Near the little village of Tappan, and three or four miles
from the western shore, is the tomb of Major Andrf, Uie
amiable and interesting young EngUsh officer, who, in Uie
year 1780, fell a victim to the schemes of the treacherous
Arnold and his own impmdence. At that period, his fete
was by many considered unjust, by all was lamented— but
time, which jJways corrects tlie transitory, and often incon-
■ Knickerbocker, II. 103.
nKtemti
Americ
of war
amiabh
» taste
been g
study,
him a;
formed
deliver
of cant
expert
ed. A
river, i
turn to
but wl
though
ed by t
scoutir
offered
if they
tare pi
New-V
leljvei
whocc
high St
of Joh
captor
ceive,
thatth
a silve
I this in
motto
I chief 1
I Congr
dered
ed to '
letter
by tak
ing fin
beau,
partici
HAJOR ANOHC.
19
I scenes, yet retreating m
>race8 of the neighbouring
idise, fraught with sweet
t tufted lawn— the bushy
ng through the fresh and
iras situated some little In-
rude cabin of some solitary
evolving day, seemed each
k different charni over the
» break gloriously from the
the hills, and sparkling the
,'ems ; while along the bor-
n\asscs of mist, which like
approacli, made a sluggish
ice up the mountains. At
life and gayety — the atmo-
Ic pureiiess and transpareu-
vanton madrigals, and tlie
essel merrily on her course.
Hood of glory in the west,
rth with a tliousand gorge-
lent and magnificent. The
against the mast— the sea-
Li nst the slirouds, lost in that
bcT grandeur of nature com-
•en. Tlie vast bosom of the
linor, reflecting the golden
;pting that now and then a
I surface, filled witli painted
red brightly, as perchance a
\ gleamed upon them from
aan, and three or four miles
tomb of Major Andr<, tl>e
Enghsh officer, who, in the
schemes of the treacherous
ie. At that period, his fate
t, by all was lamented — but
s transitory, and often incon-
Kt, IL 103.
Htlerate, opinions of the dry, has justified the decision of the
American general, as consonant to the principles of morality,
of warlike intercourse and of honour. It is siiid he was
amiable and accomplished, and nature had bestowed on him
a taste for elegant literature and the fine arts, which had
been greatly improved by a goml education, and attentive
study. His fidelity, with his situation and character, made
him a good agent in tl>e conduct of the plot, which had been
formed by sir Henry Clinton and the mfamous Arnold, for
ilelivering up West Point to the British ; but his high ideas
of candour, and his abhorrence of duplicity, made him in-
expert in practising those arts of deception which it recjuir-
ed. After having secretly met Arnold on the beach of the
river, and formed the necessary plans, he attempted to re-
turn to New-York, assuming a feigned name and a disguise ;
but when he had advanced sonic distance in security, and
thought himself out of danger, he was stopped and discover-
ed by three of the New-York militia, who were, with others,
scouting between the outposts of the two armies. Andr£
offered his ciptore a purse of gold, and a new valuable watch,
if they would let him piiss; and permanent provision, and fu-
ture promotion, if they would convey and accompany him to
New- York. They nobly disdained the profi'ered bribe, and
delivered him, a prisoner, to Lieutenant-Colonel Jemison,
who commanded the scouting parties. In testimony of the
high sense entertained of the virtuous and patriotic conduct
of John Paulding, David Williams, and Isaac Van-Wert, the
captors of Andr^, Congress resolved, "that each of them re-
ceive, annually, two hundred dollars in specie, during life ;
that the board of war be directed to procure for each of them
a silver medal, on one side of which should be a shield, witli
this inscription, « Fidelity,' and on the other the following
motto • Vincit Amor Patrix ;' and that the commander in
\ chief be requested to present the same, with the thanks of
I Congress, for Uieir fidehty, and the eminent service they ren-
dered their country." Lieutenant Colonel Jemison forward-
ed to Washington aU the papers found upon Andri, with a
letter giving an account of the whole affau- ; but the express,
by taking a different route from the general, who was return-
ing fW)m a conference at Hartford, with count de Rocham-
beau, missed him. The same packet, which detailed the
particulars of Andre's capture, brought a letter from him, in
mM'^^
»ii*|,iii,l Iftii !"!l
20
MAJOB ANDIIt-
^hirh l.e avuwcl his name and character, ami cndeaNonrea
to show that he did not conic under the descnpt.on of a Hpy.
The "etter las expressed in tcnns of dignity, without .nso-
?ence and oTapology. withov.t meanness. He stated therem.
th-^ he ail heKl a CO respondence with a person, under the
Ser^ oft s Kcnc™l , thit his attention went no lurUier than
meet^>E at^p"«on on neutral groand, for the purpose of
hitSnce and that, agiiinst his^tipulation, h.s mtention,
Ind Sout Is knovk^K'e beforehand, he was brought
Siint^^ American postst and had to concert lus escape
from them. King taken on his return, he was betrayed in-
K. vi le r,, dition of an e.,emy in disguise, ll.s pnnc.pal
recues Is, t at " whatever hfs fiUe might '«, a decency
of treatment n.ight be obs.M-ved, which would mark, that,
is St"nu.e. be was brande.l wi.i> n<>thmp that was
dish(—«i?<(iitu«'i— «■••"''» "••"!«■«'•
A» we enter the Tapjmn Seu, the wostem shore beeo.m.
« rich una «.u'lv cuUi/aUd e.mntry. risin^r K^ntly frum t^,c
K of the aajucent country, from the inveterate propens -
y of the huiumls to linger about the vU^ V^arT^lt "
m«r . I (lavs And its neiglibourhood is now fainihar to tliL
S^; k-rT^ the s^enc from^h.ch the hanlcs. Ichabod ( mm,
Tas drt'e^by the haughty frowns of the ,cau eous but urn -
e^ried KitnLvanT^s/el, the bh.stenng nva^^ of «™
Bones, and the more than mortal vengeance of the lUadlcM
three miles farther. tl,e.rr«/o«rH.arv.^..chcnler^^^^^^
,t the northern extremity ot tlie I appan ^J *• 'J^'"f.„;,,^
«^, Point on the east, we now enter nuvernhfiwUtiy, anouior
fx;S:f tt rive;, in whichare a numberol ..^^^^^^
ed islands: near ts northen temunation. on tUt w<^«'"^
!horr"HS ««V Point, asteipronnd hill, nsmg perhaps s.xtv
tTaboTe'rriver.'having'abold -ckybore;, -^ u.u .
to the main land by a niinow .sthmns. The "^" »^'" ^'J',,^
fort are still distinct, and wil be ■■^•<=°»"=«=^"^,*^.*'^':„*^i5th of
Cieueral Wayne's pliant exploit on the "'K'^t°»J^ ";';",
Jiilv 1779. when Tie took it by storm irom the ""t'""' *'"'
in v'three hundred men. It is thirty-nine miles above New-
viCand thCas well as the opposite point, .s composed
n( a hard calcareous stone. , ._ .r ,
° Oppo^itTto Stony Point, and on the eastern ^hore. -» ^ ^^
pla^s P,,;,,/, a beautiful penins"l'VP''"J^'=»'"e;"3f,X;
,va-\t kv the British friirate. to receive «;eneral Arnold. alter
i! tea1^.^V at West pSTnt.' Two miles above at the boUom
of H deep bAy. running into the river, and eight F.F.KHKII.L^THr. HIfilll.A1(^ Rcntly from tlic
II ttrniiiwtmg in ni(?h iw^^-
A s(i ft-itilo, beinK K<'"'=';»''y
oiiLR; t\ie upni:ar.ince ot llic
ifvil, and the intermixture tit
ts, fine forcstjt and cuUivat-
'S presents many an int(-r.
VhlllipHbiirg is Tnrrylowii,
h New-York. The name wm
ler (lays, l>y the Kood house-
i-om the inveterate propensi-
about the village tavern, on
irliood is now familiar to the
;h the hapless Ichabod V.mK
ns of the beauteous but haixl-
i; bhistering rivalry of Uroni
il vengeance of the Headless
the village ot Sinssingi wl
wer, which enter* the H"'^""
5 Tappan Sea. Passing /««-
nter Huverntrnw Bay, another
are a number of it)cky, wood-
termination, on the west<-m
Muul hill, rising perhaps sixtv
l)old rocky shore, and united
sthinuH. The remains of the.
he recollected as the scene ot
it on the night of Uie I5th ot
f storm from the British, witli
tliirty-nine miles above New-
; opposite point, is composed
il on the eastern shore, is Ver-
isula, projecting into the nver.
) receive «ieneral Arnold, atter
Pwo miles above, at the bottom
e river, and eight miles above
shill, very prettily situated at
ok, II. asJ-
(lie foot of the flif(hlaiiil.i, and carrying on a con.iiderable
trade witli New-York. In its neiglilxiurliood arc the ruins of
•-rverul forts, iit.'.H liy tiie Ann-nc:iiiH, in tlie revolutionary
war, to protect tliis iiiiportant passi but liiesc remains are
now scarcely to be timiul, even by the in(|iiisitive traveller,
and each successive year renders yet nioiv indistinct these
traces of that interesting periwl.
Wc now enter upon a scene, which iius lung been cele-
brated as one of unrivalled beauty and niugiiitieenee — the
passage of tlie Hudson through the Hijfhltin(/K, or Kishkill
Mountains. This runi-e of liiils, wliich was known to the
Indians as the Matteuwan Mountains, appears to be an
extension of the second great cliuiii, or lllue Uidge, pro-
ceeding from the south-west. Its geological formatum is
decidedly primitive, and is i)riiicipally composed of granite
and gneiss, imbedding oceasionally oii s of iron. From the
circumstance of its so directly cit)s.siiig the Hudfon, and th<5
appearance so strikingly presented, of tliat river having forced
a passage through it, geologists liave looked upon this ridge
as the great soutlieni bouiulary of a \ii.st lake, which at some
ttjrmer period spread its waters fur and wide over the more
northern districts, and extended as far as the high lands on
llie borders of Massacliusetts aiKl(:oiinectiritt,and the inoun-
taias in the neigblxiuriiood of Saratoga. Wlietlierthis outlet
was forme cit-vation of' ..ine hundred an.l th.rty-five tec.
Kv/^at the rairuculou. account wa» received irom
i;m^e.'no wortliy of implicit belief, luul he not owcrted «
~. tn,e a* any thing in hi« book—n u«ert.on wluch fully
'"^'r^«m rrA to tell . fact." «.y. the venerable histo-
viun. "Which I doSbt much my reader. w.U he«t»t^ to »,-
i- K,.t if il.fv
rtr^mpe "r wu. of u very lu«ty «.o. ntnUUng boldly »^^^^^^
his countenuncc hke u niounUiin o» Oolcoiida » beintf «unip
tiouBvLdeckcdwill. rubies and other precious . tone.--
! itu,. « llui of a kii.ir of good fellows, which jolly Bac
. .n^->'"t''^^»» who b't.use'^ heartily at the Augon No«
thuH it happened, that bright and early ... the mormng. U..
i od AntKoiiy. having washed his burly viwge. wa. leannn-
o e thc-uui r.nnli.ig of the galley. co..ten.plaUng .t m U
^ assy wan- below. Just at ih.s n.o.nent, the '""fj""' *" '
b eaki-Tgin all his Hplc.dour from behind one ot the Ik
luWrof the lligblumls, did tUrt one of hi» most pote i
leans till upon t..e rcfulgct nose of the sounder ot bra>-
_u\e reHecu'^n of which shot straightway down, hissing ho .
into the water, and killed a mighty stuigeon that was spm
inio lilt w» . ^ monster, being with mti
'"? lZ,tf hoisted on boanl. furnished a luxurious repast f.
ale crew, bdng accounted of excellent flavour, excepti.ip
a out the wound, where it smacked a itUe of bnmstone
S tl s! on my veracity, wa* the first Ume that ever stm-
econ w^ eaten in these part» by Christian people.
^ " VVlien this astonishing m.raclc came to be inade known
to Peter atuyvesant, and Svat he tasted of the uiiknown hi,
Le, Smfy we" be^upposed. marvelted exceedingly , «u^
La monument thereot', he gave tl.e najne ot f "<*f«jr» Ato
to a stout promontory in the neighbourhood, and .t has con
tTnued to be called Anthony's Nose ever since that bme.
Tftcr tmiung this point, the river h» a dmsct course oJ
lllOIlt I
pI pri»(
:i half c:
Mri'ply
and llu
loftier
iiig hai
piMsed
ing aid
As we
more i
ill nlg^
excel)!
( verj I
(liaiigi
VclIlT,
uiid th
now Cfl
Kevolii
to seen
statfii,
(li'spir
tio mill
sidered
iiUcnip
the not
fate of
The
in the
en, thut the no»e of Anthoii)
ty »w, »ln>tting boldly trom
ill of GolcoiiJa» beintf sump
and other precious atones—
lod fellows, which jolly Bac
; heartily at the flagon. Now
lid early in the morning, U.'
Ilia burly viaagc, was leaning
irallcy, contemplating it in Uu
ia moment, the illustrious sun.
from behind one of the liiKi
tlart one of his most pottn
nose of the sounder at bri>-
straightway down, hissing hot.
ighty sturgeon that was spor
huge monster, being with iiili
furnished a luxurious repast tr.
of excellent flavour, exceptiiip
smacked a little of brimstone
s tlie hrst time that ever stuj
by Christian people.
,raclc came to be made known
he tasted of the unknown fisli,
1, marvelled exceedingly 5 and,
ive tlie name of Antkony'B JSm
neighbouihood, and it has con-
i Nose ever since that time.'
he river has a direct coarse «
iliout ninf miles to U'nt Point. Imlcod, from \U rr(fulurily,
it prcHcntH tJK' upiK'iiraiK'c of'u f^nd ruiiiil, anil is lint ulioiM
a half or three <|iiurt('rH of 11 mile in width. TIk' ImiikH risr
steeply for nhout one hundred or one hiiruh'i'tl and fifty feet,
and tlic'ii form a flat areUi which set'mM tri he \.\\v base of tlir
loftier hills that rise; uimvc in stupeiuloiH (i^raiulcur. Look-
ing hark, the scene is closed by the iiiimntaiim wc have;
piiMsed ( ami Inokinff lorwartl, the same high chains, stn-lch-
iiig along on either hand, appear to unite in the diHt;::ici'.
.\s we uppi-oach West I'oint, the scene increiues more and
more in nictiiresqiie j^niiideur — the hunks on each side riso
ill iiijcged majesty, and present a uniform covering of wood,
excc]»t where interrupted by projecting rocks, which assume
I \er\- hue as the sun shines upon them, and reflect an evcr-
( liaiigiiig picture on the placid mirror at their feet.
\\ cxI I'oint is an object of no common interest to the
v( Her, both from the recollections of niist times and evints,
:iii*h con-
sidered it, and that, despairing of reducing it by force, they
attempted to ga\n it by corrupting the commanding otticet',
the notorious Arnold. The ill success of his scheme, and the
fute of his coadjutor Andr<-, have been already alluded to.
The military college of the United States was founded here
in the y(;ar 1801 ; find its first organization was devolved by
tjongress upon the late Genenil Williams, whose talents antl
unremitting industry did honour to himself and his country
which employed him. Its discipline, however, was brought
to its present perfect state in the year 1817, when the super-
intendent who now presides over it. Colonel Thayer, was
placed at its head; a gentleman who unites to a distinguished
Ruik and reputation in his profession, a vu-st fund oi know-
ledge acquired in similar establishments in Kurope.
I'hc number of cadets all >wed by (/'oneress is two hun-
dred and sixty, of whom about sixty are admitted annually.
The age of admission is from fourteen to twenty. At the
lirst examination, at which many candidates arc always diii-
C
I'tii
(i
'i 'b ,1:
.■i...l.:
!^f
.«pu*«J,!,ai »!'■»»"
26 WBST POIirr— MIUTABT colikok.
in French, mathematics, '*'=• *"^. j without ffood
SSSi Ihey ^e'Sdt'2'drawforit us an en-
Ph'iSh Wuch, both OS a likeness and a picture, does
irreat credit to that accomphshed artist.
^ThP bMTacks of the cadets are spacious and weU built.
TiLe Sii^aloom, to which is attached -other roon.
solitary <=''«fi"^™«If " ^^^etT^ discipUr a, there is no-
instituuon, and Xf^Xra ti^veUer wiS be more struck,
•^^ITcCn^i'dL^^^htlLtTi; sounded, the studeiitsn.,
roifu^iheirbei'clean their amis, appourtments. and rooms,
*tKotK'eve%tul2'.^stli^tosubjoinU.efo^^^^^^
i«gSleithe -le affoniing a.H,ewotthe n«nner .nwh.ch
thi employmcnte of the day are distributed , the oUier, a m
of the studies which «re pursued:—
UlSTi
Hcveill
— Po
—Ins
Class 1
2
4
Rreakii
Class 1
— 2
— 3
— 4
Cilass 1
Class 1
'^if
_^,,,|
PABT COLIKOB.
led in the elementary stii-
jcl to what is called a Btite
to a severe course of study
kfter six months, there is a
,ot be passed without good
n. Those who are successttil
(lete their four years' course
proper conduct, which how-
et is allowed by the govern-
, besides two rations a day,
tionth. The sixteen dollars,
clothing, stationary, candles
niished to them, and placed
ny surplus on the balancing
wed to draw for it as an en-
1 is one of the finest in the
ntific v/orks, both of our own
iig the ornaments it contains,
efferson, painted by Sully ol
likeness and a picture, does
ed artist,
are spacious and well built,
ich is attached another room,
leir arms, &c. The plan ot
emselves, what has been pre-
out at lectures, is found to be
e cadets assembled in one hall,
to the room of another durnig
jeing appointed to prevent all
shment for insubordination is
fvants are alLved about the
b itsdiscipUra, there is no-
traveller will 'ae more struck,
ess which prevsul throughout
It. , ^ .
: is sounded ; the students nse,
arms, appointments, and rooms,
' the day. . . . . „
iteresting to subjoin the touow-
• a view of the manner in which
Ire distributed; the oUier, a list
iued:—
WSST MIST — TnUtJint COLUttK.
27
Distribution o? Stijdh!s, awd Empiotment of Time
DUniNO THE DaT.
From dawn of day to sunrise.
Heveilld at dawn of day — Roll-call immediately after reveille
— ^Police of rooms— <; leaning of arms, accoutrements, 8ic.
—Inspection of rooms, thirty minues after roll-call.
Prom sun-rise to seven o'doek.
Glass 1. Study of engineering and the military art.
2. Study of natural and experimental philosiophy.
3. Study of mathematics.
4. Study of mathematics.
From seven to eight o'clock.
nreakfast at seven o'clock — Guard mounting at half past
seven — Class parade at eight.
From eight to eleven o'clock.
Class 1. Recitations and diawing relative to engineering and
the military art.
2. Recitations in natural and experimental philosophy.
3. Recitations in mathematics.
4. Recitations in mathematics.
From eleven to twelve o'clocl:
Lectures on cngi.ieering and the military art.
Lectures on natuial and experimental philosophy.
Study of mathematics.
Study of mathemiitics.
From twilve to one o'clock.
Montlay, Wednesday, and Friday, lectures on chy-
mistry as applied to the arts, or on mineralogy and
geology. — Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday,
study of the same subjects.
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, lectures on
chymistry. — Monday, Wednesday, and Friday,
study of the same subject.
3. Recitations in French.
4. Study and recitations of French. ., .^-t
Cilasa 1.
3.
4.
Class 1.
2.
i| : '
«piiwn«i«J«i|)W. •'!'''
28
VEST POIHT— MIUTART COLIBOB.
Fmm one to two o'clock.
Dinner at one o'clock— Recreation from dinner to tVfo
o'clock.
From two to four o'clock.
Class 1. Study and rccitatioiw of geography, liistory, ethics,
and national law.
2. Di-awing of landscape and topography.
3 Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, drawing of the
humln figure-Tuesday and Thursday, sUidy ot
French.
4, Study and recitations of French.
From four to sunset.
Military exercises-Dress parade and rolUall at sunset.
From stmset. to half hour past.
Supper immediately after parade-Signal to retire to quar-
' ^ ters immeiatcly afler supper.
From half hour pari sunset to half past nine o'cMc.
Class 1. Study of engineering and the militanr art.
__ 2. Study of natural and experimental philosophy.
3, study of mathematics.
4, Study of mathematics.
From Italfpast nine to ten o'clock.
Tattoo at half past nine o'clock-Roll-call immediately aftf.r
tatt^— -Signal to extinguish ligi.ts, and mspect.on of
rooms, at ten o'clock.
o
II iiiiiiiiiiil ,,,rr
•xnx couEoe.
'.wo o'clock.
ition from dinner to t*»(>
c.
mr o'clock.
f geography, liistory, ethics
Mid topography.
ind Friday, drawing ot the
sday and Thursday, study ot
>f French.
\o sunset.
»de and roU-call at sunset.
ittlf hour past.
de— Signal to retire to quar-
r after supper.
to half past nine o'clock.
and the military art.
experimental philosophy.
i.
S.
ine to ten o'clock.
k— Roll-call immediately after
lish lights, and inspection of
WEST POINT— MIim«¥ COLtCOS.
29
■^
§ i
Hi
« ?^ a
i II
Si fS
|a tig
.s-g
■£•§ a
.ion
i.a 1
S t 2 3 a
.Jii
SfO-g
•|3i:£5
4 6^'
o
H
9.4
o
z
u
§■§
■§..1*
EC ^
III
111
^ « U
X 2
S
S
I
Hi
H
X
w
CO 3
fgS
S 3 s
■s.S- 3
SI I
1*1
U
u
<
•«4n«j *,*H< ¥Wn»J-SS'K7J .Utf/J
C2
I I
? 3' if'
ffr i o
0.&= 3
H
'I
■MMoj fcn'x p^nz
-ssyi3 ai{033s
^00
FAHT COUECH.
ETX
111
mu-ssris u-mnoj
HPHUMia
vrtn poim^— MiLiTiBT couses.
On the south side of the point, is a snot which no traveller
will pass unnoticed— on which no traveller will tread, without
dropping a tear to one of the most gallant and noble 8ol(Uer%
who came to fight for freedom in a distant land, and one who
would have fought for her as bravely and successfully in his
own, could he have controlled the destiiiv of nations. A
narrow and very steep path, in which large fragments o( rock
have been laid to form steps, conducts us down to a small
platform, enclosed on three sides by steep rocks, while on
the fourth a perpendicular precipice of near a hundred fee%
hangs over the nver.
Here dwelt Kosciusko, — here,
" Where once the garden smiled.
And still where many a garden flower grows wild*
Where now a few torn shrubs the place disclose."
The young men of the College, in a spirit that does them
honour, have subscribed fifteen hundred dollars to build here
a monument, which, when finished, will be seen at a conn-
derable distance. " How woidd the hero have rejoiced,"
says an English traveller, " if he could have known that his
memory would have been thus venerated by the vouth of a
foreign land ! A monument to the champion of Freedom
will stand well in the land of Liberty ; and by none could it
be more properly erected, than by tiie defenders of the rights
of man."
To the north of the point, and at about a quarter of a mile
from the college, is a small flat piece of ground, in a little
nook, between the foot of the mountain and the river. On
this spot, which has been lately converted into a garden,
stands t small wooden house, which General Washington
niade his head-quarters during the revolutionary war. On a
very steep projecting point of rock, immediately above this^
is the burial-ground of tlie college, where a handsome column
of white marble, surmounted with some appi
And guarded their home 'mid the batUe s herce roar
. see .n Excumon through thsUnited Sutc, by an EnglWi Gentle-
msn— Londoni 1824.
Th
An
\
Tb
1
Wl
I
Aft
into p
stupe
toth(
a pro
si^re.
ruae.
craga
hei^b
their
neatl
limit]
High
moui
eleva
recec
whic
W
tily s
bumi
New
eigh
New
was
the
port!
vessi
crea:
villai
anai
is VI
aret
!
liT hjtsam.
HT or
WOOD,
; rBUM roaT bhik,
hit Friind and Comii-nder,
t BROWN.
I the artillery of the college,
on of dlftercnt si/.eB. besides
Among Uie cannon are two
h were brought to the United
evolutionary war ; they arc
m is inscribed, UUima ratio
-ign traveller, "at which aU
swhat amused."*
bove the fortress, the inquim-
M of old Fw/ /•«'»««"». «'?f«=
riass, but now lulent and dilR-
ils spot, that a gentlemen ot
en the following hnes:—
>s that surroimd thee,
the ci-ags of the wild,
rightly around thee,
of our Liberty smiled.
ly walls ai-e forsaken,
I ramparts are low;
annon awaken,
he valleys below.
c i-uins among^
fe, and the war-drum beat loud,
let, slow gliding along,
\ the mists of the cloud.
vhose home once was here,
mny peopled our shore —
aid to Freedom so dear,
. 'mid the batde's fierce roar'
United Sutc, by an English Gentle-
NGW-WI)fn«Oll— RBWBUIia.
33
They sleep in yon vale, their rude forti-ess below.
Where darkly the shade of the cedar is spread <
And hoarse thruugli the valley the mountijn winds blow*
Where lowly they rest in the sleep of the dead.
The flowera of the forest have brighten'd that spot.
The wild i-ose has scatter'd its bloom o'er that g^und.
Where lonelv they lie — now forgetting — forgot —
Unwak'd by the mountain-storin thuiid'ring around.
After passing West Point, the river widens on the right
into a considerable bay; and the shores are still crowned oy
stupendous mountains, which give a majestic foreground
to the scene. The river then turns to the left, and opens
a prospect which perhaps exceeds every other on the pas-
8!^. The mountains, which have become more lofty and
rude, tumble at once into the river, and form on each shore
craggy precipices, some of them perhaps a thousand feet in
height: their sides are formed of large massy rocks and trees{
their lofty elevation throws a dark shade over the river be>
neath, and impresses the whole scene with unrivalled sub«
iimity and grandeur. In front is seen the termination of the
Highlands { and as we look through the lofty vista of the
mountains, we behold a wide expanse of beautiful and gently
elevated cou - bursting on the eye. The hills soon after
recede on ea^ .-.ide, and take a direction across the countiy,
which spreads far and wide into a rich and fertile vale.
We now pass the village of New- Whidtor on the left, pret-
tily situated' on the biuik of the river, and carrving on some
business witil New-York. Two miles and a half bring us to
Newhwg, a villa^ also on the west shore of the Hudsoiv
eight miles north of West Point, sixty-one mUes north of
New-York, and one hundred south of Albany. The town
was built, little more than i;wenty years ago, for receiving
the pnMluce of the western counties of tiie state, and trans-
porting it to New- York ! in consequence,- it has about fifty
vessels constantly employed in this trade, and is rapidly in-
creasing in wealth and population. It is incorporated as a
village, and contiuns about five hundred houses, four churche%
an academy, a bank, and one hundred stores and shops. It
is very prettily laid out ; and the courts for Orange county
are alternately held here and at Goshen. Th* academy is a
m
F^m NewbuTK the view down the river .9 a8to»,shm(fly
gJSSriSgXcUy to west point tUr.K.gh the |.^^^^^^^
thTnJomitun*^ of them finely softened off by the d.»
*"iS!L,i« nnnonte to Newburff, on the eastern bank of the
river^BES.?«nKn^We«^thetwoloftiestmoun.
Srf^^nKnds. The former i» fourteen hundred and
S^n^Sfe ftSSve the river, and the -"jH to the fla^^^
SSr on its summit is so easy, that cairiages have f«9""'*'y
SSne up. The New Beacon, or Grand Sachem .sshfl more
E ito elevation reaching to sixteen hundred and e'Rh^*^°
ffiSvethetide. The£wfrom^U —
r>».*. nf West Point itlitterinK in the sun ? Anthony s Nose
SJV^Tbeyo^dSthe^anpan Sea spre^^^^^
"Se. TO the north, the Huison « seen fov more than
fiftTmiles • while the eye wanders around over a fertile ana
avc^Stivatod region, chequered with every thing, that
SfSntewrt Ta Scape so Jich, extensive ?nd.d.vers.fied
^On a S creek, opposite to Newburg, .s '"tu»tf ^^e
vilSgeofXw.«Z^A. w called ♦<> "^i'\S
Fmm itself, a town on t^e same stream, but five mdes f^^m
the shore of the Hudson, and twenty m.les a W
Vrom the northern term nation of the Highlamls, tiie coiui
try on bo hs^^ is composed of the fine valWe^endmg
Keen the first and second great ndges. that .s, the Blae
SoSn and the AUeghany, thus a<=<=°"'Pl"y'"e.,V»^'?, ^
thHouA-west through the United States Th.s vaUey is of
Ir^ileeiewlly rich, abounding in limestone, and diversified
by"Ss3e7ridges of hilll which ar^
;♦ some of them the spurs, or offsets, of the higher moun
Sinr«theSTpparenilv deUched from them. Ijme Joi^e
is als<^ found in ietached strata, lower down the Hudson, as
at W
ure se
toNc
As
Thei
headl
odom
andtl
tivati(
tains,
maivi
lamCi
riedo
andtl
shore
cover
Pliny
variel
laruni
time I
be lo
pagni
Iti
of th
appit
Whei
the St
head,
thus
obje<
Ah
come
with
ety o
divei
whic
tliis I
rathe
ther
Fc
abou
kUl,
le library of nearly a tl>ou
collection of maps maihc-
ratUH, 8cc. The principal
i well iupplied wiUi excel-
the town, on a small stream
e fourteen milU of vanous
powder mills on an exten-
illing mills, 8ic.
,i the river is astonishmgly
Point through the pass of
ily softened off by the dis-
, on the eastern bank of the
Sachent, the two loftiest moun-
tner is fourteen hundred and
.5 and the ascent to the flac-
lat carriages have frequently
Grand Sachem, is stiU more
xteen hundred and eighty-five
im its summit is one of bound-
We see at our feet the Hud-
Kh the Highlands » the white
-in the sun , Anthony's Njwe
Tappan Sea spreading m the
Hud8«m is seen foi more than
ders around over a fertile and
lucred virith every thing that
rich, extensive and diversified,
to Ncwburg, is situated the
) called to distinguish it from
me stream, but five miles from
twenty miles above PeekskiU.
ion of the Higlilands, Uie coun-
d of the fine valley extending
great ridges, that is, the Blue
i thus accompanying them to
nited Statef) This vaUey is of
ig in limestone, and diversified
Is, which are tlispersed through
r offsets, of the higher moun-
»ched from them. Limestone
a, lower down the Hudson, a«
povnnECKrsii. ^5
at West Pomt and Verplank's Point t an^ numerous kilns
are seen along the sliorcs, where it is burned and transported
to New-York.
As we pass along, the scene becomes higlily interesting.
The shore, especially the western one, juts out in fine bold
headlands, with beautiful bays between them; the country is
adorned with gei.tlemen's country-seats, and farm houses 1
and there is all around a delightful mixture of wood and cul-
tivation, while the hills, though they do not rise into moun>
tains, yet are bold enough to diversify the prospect. The
maivin of tlie river displays a succession of busy villages and
lan(£ng^ aU engufed m the trade which is successfiuly car-
ried OHt through tueir medium, between the mland counties
and the city of New-York. As the traveller passes along the
shore, beholding villas, farms and towns thus spread upon it,
covering it with animation, wealth and beauty; the words of
Pliny will perhaps arise in his recollection — ^'*Littusomant
varietate gratissima, nunc continua, nunc intermissa tecta vil-
lanun, qux prxstant multarum urbium faciem." Will the
time ever arrive, when these gay banks of tlie Hudson will
be lonely and abandoned, as are now the plains of tlie Cam-
pagna'
It is unfortunate for the description of this river, that so few
of the mountains and particular headlands have distinct and
appropriate names, by which we could designate tliem.
When a fine promontory presents itself, you apply in vain to
the sailor for its name : all be can tell you is, that it is some
head, point or hook, an old Dutch name for a cape ; and it is
thus impossible to point out exactly to another traveller the
objects that have attracted our notice.
About ten miles above Newburg, the western shore be-
comes steep and precipitous, formed of rock, and covered
with trees i>nd shrubs: the eastern side is broken into a vari-
ety of little hills and valleys blending with each other, and
diversified with woods, meadows and cultivated land, over
which are scattered farm houses and gentlemen's seats. In
this manner they continue till we ap)>c(>ach Poughkteprie, or
rather the landing, for the town itself is about a mile from
the river.
Poughkeepine is a neat and flourishing town, contaimng
about twenty-five hundred inhabitants, ten miles above Fish-
kill, and the same distance from Ncwburg by the river.
ifitt
36 ■")■ f*lK— KWiJI— «TAATi«U««.
It WM •etUed by the Dutch, m teng .jjo «• ^^^S. •n-li* the
. V«Kinh *hP New-York convention me«, m 1788, ami
2^ vmcnSle Dr. Bard, wlioM Memoirs, oublmhecl » le v
SLlS'^rrr a delightful picture of £;^^[^« «")';;.:
i^ZSrxTL rirer, for the convenience ot U,c nc.gh-
fiSe^orS riul in h.x inilo» farther we arrive at yM.m-
S or mthw at the landing, for tl,e town itnelf m two m. e.
J^ Denver. It contain, about fit^y house. , »" J « P -
JanUy seated in the midst of a plain called tl.; Hhu.tbeck
Tlats which is fertile and well improved.
T\l^VatMll Mou.aaim, which \u»ve been for some t.m.
ririncupontheview, now present a bold mnl imposmg front
Sc whole view is indeed a fine one-the wc-^"". i""^,^'
the Hudson is broken into steep and rujrgcd chtU ; on tb.
e JteSc. U.e road up to the town wmas along the steens
«5Sd™r««nent. of rock ami pines, ce.Uu^ and stunted oaks
SmT» precarious hold in the crevices , while the back
2S?sXinated by the Catskdl mountams, nsmg w.tl.
Cwue tops and sloping sides tar off m the "i'-tan^;^
On the western shore of the Hudson, nearly oppwrte to
BMMbeck. but three miles from U.e nyer, is the town rf
K^Sw a romantic vdlage, in the midst ot the beaut^fiil
JSffinTtJd v'le of Eso,,us.» This little, but interesbng
SJn re«S. to mind some memorable events ^ the revolu-
^miy war. Its inhabitanto were amongst the hrst and most
• See I>arbj'i Tnwel*, p- 2*
/.caloi
New-
the I
tion.
was t
squall
landci
morel
Thei
apprc
multu
their
ascen
rage •
— « r
To fe
resen
the d
long I
ed: t
trace
their I
tumii
after
the e
this (I
of ve
and
Sarat
morti
Til
if an;
an ail
stone
the o
Some
mod(
cqua
Ki)
betw
view
supp
nir uro M 17.15, and is Uif
«venSon im», in 1788, ami
I. It cairics on, like mimi
Hudwn, a brisk trade Willi
tV the aeat of a number of
the first considerable village
*, six mill* above, on uik
t is beautil'ully situated on ii
imxluctive and wcU-culUvat-
lood are the housca of aeveral
;nutation. On a noble emi-
town, is tlie fine acat of the
c Meinoire, published a few
oicture of aft tliat is amiab e
id a man. Opposite to Hyde
or New Pallz, a landing on
le convenience of tlic ncigli-
ff/eW improved,
hove Hv«^« /^ ^f,?.„a ^,, uf which the inter-
from an exan.inat.on «' ^j^f^.^'^'JliS" 'tlm he dittcrence
vening road winds, we arc »«^ ^" .'i^'''^; " T,„„,..h »lxtecn
nulet dintaat, the K.m»km "'"^" ' ^r\..„^ion an uniicur-
-T s ,%rtrs^iK^rUnd j-Lch
:bovcthe>aceoi-HudK«y.m^ United State., no
In making the tour »♦. f"* I'^^Jl' t,,isvUluKet and every
tovdler o«K'';,|^Xrd S rnoFt beauty Si itn .cenery.
SK^^tlL^ition' :.;? wiU. the nuin. but u«uble man.
ners of its inl>ab.tant». gVretcbes along the caat-
A l^rge t^ract o ^-^J^'tirtlS Manor of L^.vinptc...
cm shore ot tlie »"""?">'"•}. jtentkmen ot this 7„ccompanicd such a lord-
usual privileges ^;>f 'j » .f '^£,''e.UoTnrtitute a Court
ihitl'
llllH t
Dutc
covel
of it!
tiling
jUHt (
with
alnu)
tive 1
ous y
vilh(
'!"(
twer
whic
the
and
beet
gratl
ridg
rocV
grai
Rid|
doei
pkki
It is
the
cou
gre
Blu
tain
Ne'
I
cor
thd
sail
at
un*
tW(
ill
flUIITOM.
formed by the ancW-iit (rtfttr
boiiring strcamii. 'I'lu' w"'
1 well cultivuted t the mtu-
, ami exctllcnt. U i»."»l
A till- clevtttioii of the KinK-
wutcr in the Hudson » hut
ind, ulonB which the inter-
believe, Umt the .hfkrcnce
Ired feet. Though ulxteen
tains, from their eleviition,
ive to Kingston an uppeur-
ling upon ground so niucU
^' of the United StHte», no
iHiting this vUlttge, and every
ic soft beauty of its scenery,
U» the plain, but alluble niun-
liere stretches along; the cast-
lis tlie Manor of Livuigstoii.
I many gentlemen of this a-
r, us we pass along ; and tlie
d in a bay, nearly opposite to
B estate was originallv graiiteu
the latter pwt of tiic seven-
Livingstone, II member ot the
fti-y of the government at !• ort
. grant were annexed all the
tlay accompanied such a lord-
honzcd to constitute a Court
icers ; and U.e Manor tenants
er to the Legislative Assembly
their votes in tl>e county elec-
, exercised MM the revolution
a century, was very P«wfnul,
rtv. and partly from Ujb distm-
itions of many of its member ;
amilv has declined of late years,
e st'iU ranked among the tusi
med by Columbia County, one
, in the slate. Jts iniprovement
CAT»KIt.t »IOP!«TA!l»i. ''i*
\vM been extremely rapid of late years, and mark* one of the
( hit f sources of tliut wealth which the state of New-Yorlc
has so quickly actpiired. It was originaUy settled by the
Dutch ( and at a very early pcri'Kl, their descentlants luul
covered all this country, and having exiiaustcd the nchnesa
of its natural soil by an ignoi-ant and improvident mode oT
tillage, they liad sunk into a sort of barbarism, and rawed,
juHt enough to support tliemsclves, while their intereourte
with tlicir neighbours, and with other parts of the sUte, wan
almost entirely neglected. But since the revolution, an ac-
tive spirit has si»rung up among the people » a">d the numefc
ous schools, the excellent highways, the ncli fields, and neat
villages, show that Columbia is now a most Houruhing county.
To tlie west of the river, and at about the disUnce ol
twenty-five miles, are seen the Catskill mountains, through
which the Hudson makes its way, in a manner different firom
the passes of the otlier mountains. There, it is by narrow
and precipitous gaps, through which a course seems to have
been made for it by some violent convulsion ot nature, or the
frratlual abi-asion of the waters— but here, it passes the great
ridge through an extended vaUey or plain, unobstructed by
rocks. The CaUkill mountains are a continuation of tha
grand chain of the Alleghany, as the Highlands are of the Blue
Ridge i and by some it has been conjectured, that this chiua
does not cross the Hudson, but gradually terminates in Oio
plr.ins on its western shore. This, however, is erroneous; for
It is easy to perceive, that the hills in the neighbourhood of
the city of Hudson are part of the same chain, resummg its
course again, and maintaining tlie general direction of the
great ridge over into Massachusetts, where, uniting with the
Blue, or more southern ridge, they form the Green moun-
tains, whish extend to the northward, through Vermont and
New-Hampshire, to the St. Lawrence.
In some parts, this range is very lofty. Round Top, ac-
cording to captain Partridge, rises to the height of three
thousand one hundred and five, and High Peak three thou-
sand and nineteen feet above the tide of tlie Hudson j and
a turnpike road, which crosses near these summits, winds up
until it reaches the astonishing altitude of two thousand
two hundred and seventy-three feet : it is the highest road
in the United States, and from it the view is wexpwMibly
;n!il
40.
KATEnSKIlI. FAtt.
«and. «' In this Alpine region," we are told/ " exists al»o
C of the most interesting catamcts in North America , no
from l.e mass of water, but from the perper,d,cular descent
of the stream, and peculiar ftnicture of the adjacent countr)
Sis acuSy but little known beyond the neighbourhood
K^ it exist^, though within - -ry short d.ta.Ke^^^^^^^^
mountain road already noticed. The high fall of ^f ««« "
"about half a mile Lm this road, near me summit of Uie
mountain, and twelve miles from Catskill.
Tlie stream takes ts rise from two small lakes, scarcely a
niile aparLl^n whose borders the cranberry (««''='""'"' ";^^:
rcu*)^pw8 profusely. It then runs gently a^nftor abou
two miles, when it reaches the ridge of '^k. over wh^d. it
b precipitated in a cataract of unrivalled f ^^^^'l^"^',!!™'^
whole height is not less tlmn three hundred and ten teet.
Era lo loco, ove a scender la riva
Yenimmo, alpestro, e per quel ch' iv et anco,
Tal ch' ogni vista ne sarebbe schiva—
Qual' e quella mina, ehe nel fianco
Di qua da Trento 1' Adice percosse,
O per tremuoto o per sostegno manco j
Che da cima del monte, onde si mosse,
Al piano e si la roccia discoscesa,
Ch' alcuna via dai-ebbe a c.lu su fosse.
On the edge of the precipice is seen the house of the guide,
who is always ready to conduct visitoi-s to the spot to point
It to them its beauties, and to assist them in ctambermg to
the situations from which they may best be v^ewed. We
should Kive the traveller some account of tins majestic
ficeno: but the old hunter, who fonns the most interestmg
charac^ r of a favourite romance, has poiti-ayed wit.i so much
energy the wild features of the spot, the boundless view
n".ru vlie summit of the cUffs, and the rude and peculiar man-
,ur in ^^ hich the stream daslics from rock to rock, and horn
precipL to precipice,-that we fear to attempt any other
"^'"^Kr know the CatskiUs, lad!' said Leatherstocking,
for you must have seen them on yom' left, as you loUowed
,, >j !.«,?> • Duvby's Travels, I). 33,
-i'?*fe-^?""E ikia'-'>.
vearetolJ,* «' exists also
3 in North America ; not
lie perpendicular descent
2 of the adjacent countr)-.
yond the neighbourhood
cry sliort distance of the
'he high fall of Katerskill
1, near the summit of tlie
atskill."
xo small lakes, scarcely a
cranberry (vaccininm oxtj-
Lins gently along for about
re of rock, over which it
irivalled grandeur, whose
e hundred and ten feet.
iva
luel ch' iv' et' anco,
)e schiva—
fianco
percosse,
gno manco ;
: si mosse,
oscesa,
iusu fosse."
een the house of the guide,
sitore to the spot, to point
ssist them in clambering to
lay best be viewed. ^ We
account of tliis majestic
foiTOs the most interesting
has poitrayed witii so much
spot, the" boundless view
the rvide and peculiar nian-
rom rock to rock, and from
fear to attempt any Other
id!' said Leatherstocking ;
1 youi' left, as you followed
ils, p. 33,
CAT8KIU MOrNT^S.
the river up from York, looking as blue as a piece of blue
sky, and holding the clouds on their tops, as the smoke curlt
over the head of an Indian chief at a council fire. Well,
there's the High Peak and the Hound Top, wWch lay back,
like a father and motlier among their children, seeing they
are far above all the other hills. But the place I mean is next
to the river, where one of the ric^^es juts out a little from the
rest, and where tlie rocks fall for the best part of a thousand
feet, so much up and down, that a man standing on their
edges is fool enough to tliink he can jump fram top to bot-
tom.*
• What see you, when you get there?' asked Edwards.
•Creation!' said Natty, dropping tlie end of his ram-rod
into the water, and sweeping one hand around him in a cir-
cle—* all creation, lad. I was on that hill when Vauglian
burnt 'Sopus, in the last wai-, and I seen t!ie vessels come
out of the Highlands as plain as I can see that lime-scow row-
ing into the Susquehanna, though one of them was twenty
times further from me than the other. The river was in sight
for seventy miles under my feet, looking like a curled shaving,
though it was eight long miles to its banks. I saw the hiUs
in the Hiin-pshire Grants, the highlands of the river, and all
that God had done or man could do, as fai- as eye could reach
—You know that the Indians named me for my si^ht, lad—
and from the flat on top of that mountain, I have otten found
the place where Albany stands : and as for 'Sopus ! the day
the royal troops burnt the towi , the smoke seemed so nigh,
tliat I tliought I could hear tbe screeches of the women.*
• It must have been worth the toil, to meet with such a
glorious view!'
« If being the best part of a mile in the air, and havmg
men's farms and housen at your feet, with rivers looking like
ribands, and mountains bigger than tlie Vision, secmuig to
be haystacks of green grass under you, gives any satisfaction
to a man, 1 can recommend the spot. When I first come
into the woods to live, I used to have weak spells, and I felt
lonesome; and then I would go into the Catskills, and spend
a few days on that hill, to look at the ways of man ; but it's
new many a year since I felt any such longings, and I'm get-
ting too old for tliera rugged rocks— but there's a place, a
short two luUes back sf that very biU* that in lato times I
i '
mm
liiii'" ■■'''
nfifUfmivm
43 CtMfilth MOUSTAISS.
relished belter than the mountain, for it was more kivered
"'^Ar^h^'w^Stf inquired Edwards, wh<.ccurU
osity was strongly excited by the simple descnption of the
•"""why. there's a faU in the hills, where the water of^^^J
littie po^ds that lie near each other bi-eaks out of the^
bounds, and runs pver the «'«V,"}**'^^3 ?«• InJSl
is mav be such a one as would turn a mill, it «> "^j^" *
IS may oe sucu » w «,ii.lerncss. But tlie hand that
thing was wanted in the wiiuerncss. "";^^"
-d!?^iSr-nu"n?rm:^^^^^^
Sa iX^could swim in it, and then starting and run-
rSne iusThke a ci-eater tl.at wanted to make a «"!■ "P""^.
tillftS to where the mountain divides hke the cle t hoo^
of a deer" leaving a deep hollow for the brook to tumble into
The SSh^s nigh two hundred feet, and the water look,
hke flS of iWven snow, afore it touM'c .e bottom , and
here tstrl-am gathers itself togetJ.e,». ^f-,";^^^
and may be flatters over fifty feet of flr. Z^^S.
^^•^fAe:^'«Srbtkfnm?nf^^^^^^^^
. an I how sTo^d a man who has lived in towns and schools
know anv tliiuK about the wonders of the woods No, no,
W there has that little stream of water been plavmg among
;tL hills ^nce He made the world, and not a dozen white
ihem hiUs .« "<=^ "^ T'^'Lu ^^^ sVeepslike mason-work,
than so many rabbits. To my judgment. If ' '* « In what diiecUon does it
run > Is it tributary of the Delaware ?'
'An;
♦Do
•No
time i1
on the
the bu
would
wiWen
ing in
Youcs
of the
of acr
andal(
I'ainbo
ing of
The
abling
ill thei
is, on t
feet a1
sive h
gentle
cool,
spot.
cage
is at a
Noi
ably fi
wishe
lengtl
fine p
glanc
wide
the ni
sachu
Th
ingir
the n
with
whol
At
villag
AIHS.
For it was more kivercd
i Edwards, whose curl-
dmple description of the
where the water of two
her breaks out of their
o the valley. The stream
im a mill, if so useless a
CSS. But tlie hand that
mill! There the water
e the rocks, first so slow
id then starting and run-
ed to make a fair spring,
livides like the cleft hoof
r the brook to tumble into,
ifeet, and the water lookn
;tou'.;H \e bottom? and
ethei ai- f.r- new start,
of fl»' ' are it falls
)s aboil <• H ;lf to shelf,
uming -...-v»ay, striving
ally comes to the pliun.'
ot before !' exclaimed Ed-
; books.'
ife,* said Leathei-stocking,
lived in towns and schools
ers of the woods ? No, no,
• water been playing among
»rld, and not a dozen white
:k sweeps like mason-work,
he fall, and shelves over the
;n 1 have been sitting at the
»unds have run into the ca-
r, they've looked no bigger
udgment, lad, it's the best
he woods ; and none know
en in a wilderness, but them
r> In what ^ecUon does it
ware?*
'Anan!' said Natty.
« Does the water run into the Delaware ?'
« No, no, its a drop for the old Hudson ; and a merry
time it has till it gets down off the mountain. I have sat
on the shelving rock many a long hour, boy, and watched
the bubbles as they shot by me, and thought how long it
would be before that very water, which seemed made for the
wilderness, would be under tlie bottom of a vessel, and toss-
ing in the salt sea. It is a spot to make a man solemnize.
You can see right down into the valley that lies to the ea.st
of the high Peak, where, in the fall of the year, thousands
of acres of woods are before your eyes, in die deep hollow
and along the side of the mountwn, paintet? like ten thousand
i-ainbows, by no hand of man, though not without the order-
ing of God's providence.' " _
The moimtains around are inhabited to their summits, en-
abling the traveller who visits them to find accommodation
ill their most elevated valleys. But in addition to this, there
is, on the top of the mountain, and no less than three thousand
feet above the level of the Hudson, an excellent and exten-
.sive house of entertiinment. It was built by a company of
gentlemen, anxious to enjoy, during the heat of summer, the
cool, refreshing and invigorating breezes of so elevated a
spot. On approaching the house, it has tiie appearance of a
cage hung out on a cliff of the precipice, and the traveller
is at a loss to imagine how it is ever to be reached.
Nowhere can a few weeks of the summer be more agree-
ably spent. The house affords every comfort that can be
wished ; the buildings are one himdred and forty feet in
lengtli 5 there is a ball-room, of very large dimensions, and
fine piazzas extend along the walls, fiom which the eye may
glance over hill and dale, cities and farms and forests, to tiie
wide circuit of a hundred miles, — and embrace in the circle
the neighbouring "tates of Vermont, New-Hampshire, Mas-
sachusetts, and Co.inecticut.
The Hudson, covered with the mist of morning, or glitter-
ing in the clear brightness of mid-day, winds beneatii, among
tiie mountwnsj and from these heights the sun is seen to rise
with such unequalled splendour, as fully to repay any one
who has courage to leave his bed a little sooner than usual.
At the foot of these fairy hills is stud to be the little ancient
village, where Rip Van Winkle passed his days, patiently
M
44
HCBSOir.
played '^t^W.^.i" "hat rolls over the lofty peak , on a
shoes ; and the thunder tnatroi traveller, that the
^ninf the river, twenty-six miles above Rhinebeck, and
east bank ot the m er, '^*''"^' , vew-York. Just below,
one hundred and seventeen above New Y^K^^^^^ ^^^
on the ePP";'*/,Ai^'^'Theri^ of Hudson was perhaps as
above, that of f *«»*•. J,''^.,t"*tnth"united States. It was
f^'iTil^^IyelAm, ffi^SS'jYnkins. aQuakerf,x,m
founded in ^^%y.**L\' , ' j p,irchased what was then a farm,
Providence in Rhode »*'f ""' Pl";^ getUement. It was soon
H onSe sTaW, whose business being nmired by the
P .!1p here and brought with them thcu- spint ol
peace, .'='«"^Xnlaririn naviL^^^ From that time, tiie
enterprise, P»^!"'?^'/*" Tf^ now a population of about
place increased raP'%' ^^ itTs incomorated as a city, and
Anthony's N«'e
Bear Mountain
Crow's Nest -
New Beacon ■■
Fort Putnam •
Hound Top •
Sugur toBf -
Bull Hill
HigMandi.
03) fet-t I
1350 I
1418 I
1535 I
598 I
CattkiU Mountains.
3105 1 High Peak
866 feet
^,„ 1484
Breakneck - - IJ"
West Voint Plain 188
. 3019
Belov) Sevi-rork
Nevesink Heights - 282
HainvstcadHarboUt HiU 319
St'aten bland - 307
(Ifeviiwg fefi'tfo' Index.)
water c
of wlii
about t
tliough
some y
are nut
and in
many t
New-V
The
sentinj;
swelliii
countr
shores,
village
mills ai
landinf
derhoo
is a net
acaden
childre
ber of
lived
landing
stream
the Hi
Ilobert
Froi
village
and Gi
and CO
were t
and st:
pcaraii
The
and th
racter
I fonnat:
IIIXSSCS
cci-tuiii
the coi
river a
of his dame, or reposing
, with the august Nicholas
Van Bummel. It was in
ort square-built ghosts of
nd his companions, as tliey
tockings and high>--i\ed
over the lofty peak . on a
e passing traveller, that the
:ir unearthly pme.*
a county, is situated on the
niles above Rhinebeck, and
e New-York. Just below,
own of CaUkill, and just
[)f Hudson was perhaps as
the United States. It was
Mr. Jenkins, a Quaker from
based what was then a farm,
a settlement. It was soon
iicket, and the neighbouring
siness being injured by the
t with them their spint ol
tion. From that time, tlie
} now a population of about
s incorporated as a city, and
,oration. Many of the houses
;veral distiUenes, and exten-
its. Two weekly papers arc
n a respectable footing. The
iiiiiM of mountains on tin- Hudson
rtdge, and are dctmed cornet.
ids.
Suear Loaf - • 860 feet
Bull Hill - - - If*
Breakneck - .- IJ"
West Voint Plain 188
mntalns.
HigliPeak -
n-Tork,
Stated laland
3019
307
COlCMBU^KIIfninHOOK — 6Hr.r.TTBV9H.
45
(Kewburg Political Index.]
tt ater obtained from the wells is not very good, in consequence
of which it is brought by an aqueduct from a fine sining,
about two miles distant. A number of ships are built here,
ttiough this trade is not pushed so extensively now as it was
some years since: the vessels, however, that are owned here,
are numerous, and are engaged in the wliale and seal fislierics,
and in European and West Indian trade : besides wliich,
many that are owned here are employed on freigiit from
New-York.
Tlie passage up the river now becomes veiy beautiful, pre-
senting on each side a finely cultivated countiy, occasionally
swelling into rounded prominences, and interspersed with
country-seats and busy landings spread every where along the
shores. Six miles above Hudson, on the eastern shore, is the
village of Columbia, containing about fifty houses, and several
mills and factories. Five miles farther bring us to Kinderhook
landing, on the same side. It is the port of the village of Kin-
derhook, which is itself situated about five miles inland, and
is a neat little place, of twenty or thirty houses, with a church,
academy, &c. Its name is of curious origin, and signifies
children's corner, or point ; and was so called from the num-
ber of children belonging to a Swedish family that anciently
lived on a point of land, about half a mile above the present
landing. The creek of tiie same name is celebrated as a mill
stream ; and upon the promontoi-y between its mouth and
the Hudson river, is situated the fine farm and seat of Mr.
Robert Livingston.
From here to Albany, a distance of twenty miles, the only
villages on either side, of any note, are Baltimore on the west,
and Greenbttsh on the east. The latter is very flourishing,
and contains about one hundred houses. Extensive barracks
were erected near it, during the late war; and being white,
and stancUng on elevated gi'ound, they have a pleasing ap-
pearance.
The western shore is formed by the cotmty of Albany,
and the eastern by th.it of Rensselaer. Tlie geological clia-
racter of Albany county is that of transition, and secondary
formations ; the substratum is evidentiy argillite, and though
Inixsses of primitive rock are occasionally found, they have
certainly been formed elsewhere. The soil and surface of
the country are much diveraified; along the shore of the
Iriver are some extensive alluvial flats, but in general, the
rl
III
^»f--Ss^gsr^-
46 MANOB or VAN nENMELAtn.
district •« not one on which agvlcultur.- can be vc^r profitable,
without great expense and V''^';r'J,*!Xn formation, and
Wvck, or the Manor of Van KenssciaLi, a .
S?d ol. both sides of the H;iS'Jr;"|,e iSo"^^^^^^^^^
the centre. Two b-^J^f 'i^ "^^'^^.^^Je ftn-tvinc in Holland,
present famdy, were genUemcn o uit,
who came over to th.s country »b"«t ^^e yc ^^^^^^^
brought with them a """^^er of the r country ^^^^^ ^^
and Obtained extensive (?™'f^"™'Sow" '" «»«= "*'^''
lordships, or large proprieUryesUte8.uniin ^^ i„^„y
colonies, than as s'/^Pl^^ff^^^ .ame from Holland and
subdivided among the ^^"lei-s, who came torn _^^j
^ other parts by eases. ^^'"^ •"' ^A-^^c ' rnoderate rent,
Hf me in fee. with the '•?^^'^f;°" " ^J^ToZetor hasb^^
so that a regular succession of tenant an proP ^^„,,,i,et
The good conduct of the »»''' Vf P;,"„„i„,^^ fove ot
amount to one hundred «»°» «"^ Xd in tl.e cause of sci-
on the
hiU'd t
(lesccn
aiTival
toxicat
tic, be
I,enap
distant
transfe
Manila
may h
and ])i
wliicli
know!
Uutoii
"A
with a
fishinf!
water.
wlio ti
pheiio
suppo
hig-iic
l:ind.
cut dl
lliat t
their
siglit,
tliem,
Jiousc
visit t
))rehe
worsi
ill wh
gotre
tiie b
order
in ad(
Amcri
tur<- can be vciy profitable,
TIC labour. .
of tranailion foTinittion, ant
alluvial flats, \^ liich uttonl
re, however, lai-ge tracts of
:k, pine, and stunted oaks,
■rnent to the farmer.
my, commences Ucnsselaer
isclacr, an extensive body <«
„, having Albany nearly m
9 name, the ancestoi-s ot the
of Uu'ire fortvuic m Holland,
bout the year 1640. They
their countrymen as setUcrs.
■ land, n\ore in the nature ot
states, unknown in the other
>es. These were onguially
Arho came from Holland and
,r years, some for lives, and
9nof a very moderate rent;
■nant and proprietor has been
riod, andMr.VanUensselact
ntrv peopled by his tenants,
,er man in the United States,
ivereiffnties in Europe,
^ily has presei-ved their estate
acquired the universal love of
• Vatroon* is always given to
al courtesy and respect, where
rheir political course has been
p immense wealth, said now t(.
sand dollars u year, has been
ily applied in the cause ot sc-
happiness ; and the kind uikI
■nt represenutive of the family
ilustrious rejjutation of his race,
d purity and goodness.
2 below Albany, is a long island
it is at the upper part of this,
,r Hemlrick Hudson is said to
iraire up the North river, and to
• witti tlie IntUans of these pwts.
AHRIVAL OP THE DUTCH.
47
on the 19lh of September, 1609. The Iroquois then inha-
bited this country ; and tradition has preserved among their
descendants, now scattered far to the west, an account of the
aiTival of the white m(!n on their shores, and a scene of in-
toxication that occuiTed. This tradition is the more authen-
tic, because it prevails among the descendants of the Lennt
I,enape, at that time a neighbouring tribe ; though, in their
distant wanderings, and the long lapse of years, they havr
transfened the scene and the occun-cnce to the island of
Manhattan, or New-York. In whichever spot the incident
may have happened, the reader will be interested with it,
and ])erhaps not less amused with the excellent account to
which the Dutcli relators of it have turned their classical
knowledge, by transfening the Carthaginian cunning of
Uiuen Dido to the wilds of the western hemisphere.
" A long while ago," says our tradition,'' " before u man
with a white skin had yet been seen, as some Indians were
fishing, thev saw at a distance a large object moving on the
water. They hurried ashore, and collected their neighbours,
who together returned, and viewed intensely this astonishing
phenomenon. What it could be, baftied all conjecture: some
supposed it a lai-ge fish or animal ; others, that it was a veiy
l)ig house, floating on the sea. Perceivnig it moving towards
l;ii\d, the spectators thought proper to send runners in differ-
ent directions, to ciUTy the news to their scattered chiefs,_
that they might send off for the immediate attend.^nce of
their warriow. These arriving in numbers to behold the
sight, and perceiving- that it was actually moving towards
them, conjectured that it must be a remarkably large
Jiouse, in which the Manitto (Great Spirit) was coming tw
visit them. Thev were much afraid, and yet under no ap-
))rehensioii that the Great Spirit would injure them : they
worshipped him. The chiefs now assembled, and consulted
in what manner they should receive tlieir Manitto. Meat w.^
got ready for a sacrifice; tlie women were directed to prepare
the best victuals ; idols cr images were examined, and put in
order. A gnuid dance tliey thought would be pleasing, and
in addition to the sacrifice, might appease him if angry. The
I
• See Heckcwelder's Narrative, in the Historical Transactions of thr
American Philosophical Society, Vol. I. ; and Yates tt Moulton'4 History
of NcwYork, Vol. I. p. i!4.
48
AnniTAL or the nrTcn.
rrn cr«~td*lin looked «P ;«■ * - -
rtroyed. He then took the glass, smelltd 't. aj*'" »"^
S bidding adieu, und drank the contents. AUeyes were
now
cried
The)
oslee
perc(
decli
and
Aftei
the \
red c
stocli
signs
now
agaii
couli
5imd
brotl
■whei
whit
oma
pott(
cut*
shov
a g<
ignu
siicli
dail)
proi
land
ore
akr
to a
ther
fom
wer
wit!
livci
com
reac
the
beU
eve
; DUTCn.
i determine what this vlu
tlie resvilt would be. To
looked up for advice and
it to do, and distracted al-
\a confusion a grand dance
inners ai-rived, declaring il
ours, and full of living crea-
that it was tlieir Manitto,
1 of game. Others arriving
r people, of different coloiir
one m particular appeared
o the Manitto. They were
affine what the vessel was,
portended. They are now
lage they could not under-
or yell, m their way. The
render it) stops. A smaUcr
red man in it— some stay by
J and w ise men form a circle,
o attendants approach. He
tenance, and they return the
y are amazed at theff colour
who, glittering in red, wore
luttons) they could not com-
it Manitto, they thought, but
in > A large elegant hock-
anter,) is brought by one ot
J, from which a substance is
s, and handed to the Manitto.
led, and handed to the chief
it, and passes it to tlie next,
m this manner is passed round
retmned to the red-cloUied
It warrior, harangiies them on
the cup unemptied. It was
he Manitto, to diink out ot as
e would please him— to reject
■ and if no one else was bold
self, let what would follow, for
ie than a whole nation to be de-
ws, smelledit, ajain addressed
ik the contents. AU eyes were
AKBITAL OF TRE OCTCH.
41
now fixed '>n him. He soon began to stagger. The women
cried, supposing him to be in fits. He rolled on the ground.
They bemoaned his fate : they thought him dying. He fell
asleep. They at first thought he had expired, but soon
perceived he still breathed. He awoke, jumped up, and
declared he never felt more happy. He asked for more,
and the whole assembly imitating him, became intoxicated.
After tliis intoxication ceased, (they say, that while it lasted,
the whites confined themselves to their vessel) the man with
red clotlies returned, and distributed beads, axes, hoes and
stockings. They soon became familiar, and conversed by
signs. The whites made them understand that they would
now return home, but the next year they would visit them
again with presents, and stay with them a vhile » but as they
could not live without eating, they shoukl then want a little
Ssmd to sow seeds, in order to raise herbs to put into their
brotii. Accordingly a vessel arrived the season following,
when they were much rejoiced to see each otlier ; but the
whites laughed when they saw the axes and hoes hanging aa
ornaments to their breasts, and the stockings used aa tobacco-
pouches. The whites now put handles in the former, and
cut down trees before their eyes, and dug the ground, and
showed them the use of the stockings. Here, they say,
a general laughter ensued, to thiut they had remained
ignorant of the use of these Ihings, and had borne so long
such heavy metal suspended round their necks. Familiarity
daily increasing between them and the whites, the latter now
proposed to stay wth them, asking them only for so much
land as the hide of a bullock spread before tliem would cover
or encompass. They granted the request. The whites took
a knife, and beginning on one place on this hide, cut it up
to a rope not thicker than the finger of a little child. They
then took the rope, and drew it gently along in a circular
form, and took in a large piece of ground. The Indians
were surprised at die superior wit, but they did not contend
with them for a little ground, as they had enough. They
lived contentedly together for a long time ; but the new
comers from time to time asked for more land, which was
readily obtained ; and thus they gradually proceeded along
the Mahicanni-huck (Hudson river) until they began to
believe they would want all their country, which proved
cventUAlly the case."
E
so
AtBATtT.
JlLar,y is « very old town. o"K'"""y;-nS;,'' «?"!l '
infhc year 1614. >*»''^^".'*/'^;" f^^.S CTnamc w.s
conquest of the P^-^l"""" .^J J-;\\ f ^1 uke of York ami
dmngcJ in honour ot K.nR J=''' ,? ;;*';'^,t'C^,p„rtttnt in lUe
Albunv. l'»"»r""i'U. USrTwJd perhaps b«
United suae. t»'7b''' 'y " , 'rtf> on an .aiuvial H t alonR
thought unpleanan . J^^'^^thUery abruptly to the hcKht
the river shore, anU tnen nxiiis "^ 7 .....Zen and rrcirular.
of twohundrcdleet. ''* ««'^"^'l '^^^^^ ^C",;^^^ and
But situated as it .b. near »>';. ^^^J "♦ fP ^^J ^,,,lu of
vet with .ufticient water at U whl^v^Hj^j; . .^^^^^,^,,,,^^ ,
roads extending from .t .n every ^^J^^j^''" '^ " l^.;,,^ the
populauon, .n 1820. ^;^^^^yj; ' ,,,,ch ascends rapidly h-om
main street is culled 8*f,'^ ^'.r.'j^'^r', ' \",., .^,^ closely and well
the river to the Capitol. ,.\^',"^";^'^;„V^nd commodious.
/rent, facing State street, is nncly t«>-
eight }-cet in length. Tills bull is fifly-eigli feet bug, forty
feet in width, and sixteen in heiglH, the ceiling o» which l*
Bupported by J double row of reeded columns ; the door*
arc finished wi'li pilastera and .men pcdimentjt , the floor »
vaulted, and laid with squares of rtalian marble, d'aK""»l'y.
chequered with white and gi-ay. From U.ts hall, the hrst
tloor on the right hand opens to the (Jominonf ounci cham-
ber of the corponition of Albany : opposite this, on the lett,
is a room for the Kxecutive and Council of Revision. On
the rijrht, at the west end of the hall, you enter the Assembly
chamber, which is fifty-six feet long, fifty wide, and twen y-
eiKht in heiirht. The speaker's seat is m the centre ot the
longest sidt" and the seats and tables for the members are
arranged in front of it, in a semicircular torm. It has a
eallcry opposite the speaker's seat, supported by eiifiit
fluted Ionic columns. The frieze, cornice and ccil.ng-pieco
(eiirhtecn feet in diameter) arc richly ornamented in stucco.
Frwn this hall, on the left, you are conducted to the Senate
chamber, fifty feet long, twenty-eight wide, and twenty-eight
hijrh, finished much in the same style as the Assembly chani-
ber. In the furniture of these rooms, with that of the Councd
of Revision, there is a liberal display of pubhc munificence «
and thp American eagle assumes an impen»l splendour.
There lire two other rooms on this floor, adjoining those hrst
mentioned, which are occupied as lobbies to accommotlate
the members of the Legislature.
Fttim the west end, in the centre of the hall, you ascend
» st^rcase that turns to the right and left, leading to the ci-
leries of the Senate and Assembly chambers, and also to the
Supreme Court rf)om, which is immediately over the halK
Itsdiniemions are fifty feet in length, forty in breadth, and
twenty-two in height. This room is handsomely ornamented
h stucco. An cntresole, or mc/zazine story, on each side
of the court-room contains four rooms lor jurors and the uses
of the courts. c
The attic story contains a mayor's court-room, a ronm «of
the Society of Arts, for the State Library, and the State
Board of Agriculture. The basement story contains the
county clerk's office, cellars and vaults for storage, and dweU-
5ng rooms for the marshal of the city.
V
III
IIM
In the Common Council room. Uure ar* pofnjt* f j;)™*
autintniished Amoricww , in the AsmMtibly chumber, the.e
t:SiSe% length port«it of Wa^un^o^^»;y A-^
of Albanv; and in the Senate chamber, one ot George «^ii"
to,Cu.^ivye a fine buildmg, though yet mcom
„Wc noSrtanding an expenditure of upwarf. of nme y
S'olKXr A\.e«,S of Natural A,t^ ha. lately
been Mtabli.hed ; and Uie exten.ivc and valuable coUection
Sfl' tmS.. &c. belonging to it. which «« fPj « ^
in iU coS.modiou. apartment, at the Acaden^. wdl wdl re-
ward the attention of a wiientihc viaitor. The ^ycciim nas
S commenced the publication of .t, P«>«=«f'f.' ''"^'
with'^the able a«.i.tance of Dr. Beck, wdl ""l^lX ^m^I Ihe
rary an.l scientific character of the place, l.he •*'»«"«^ "le
3L-//0U.., the Lanca^tman School, and «"«»» °J?" '"g*;
tution^ wiU be obsened by the traveUer, «nd jq^^^ '"8^^
for the liberality and public "Pirit of tin. nsmg c. y- But
the weat nublic work of the place is the Canal Baain. The
IwoShalg united about e.ght mile, above Albany,
fl^rSthc western .bore of the Hu.Uon, until they reach
Kpef part of the city. The canal then enters the nver
fhroug a Lin four thousand feet in length, and fi;om eighty
to three hundred feet in width, with ten feet water. Th«
maSc^ 't work is formed by a mole eighty feet wide, and
Seen tWi high, and is a terminaUon worthy, from it. mag-
niuEi.! utlliiy, of the stupendous line of inland nav.gaUon
which is conducted to it. . _ ,• v„ j
Albany is the resi «cf many of
the most interesting evente of the '^^^l"*' -'nHSnunile!^
remembered as the wene of an honourable and boundlew
bospitttlity. Though no longer in the posseswon of the Ue-
poyr
him 1
or nc
tien(
iihrii
Ol
eitlu
iiect
west
of o
T
the
.ettl
the
ing
fron
twc
five
rive
but
Btre
dcr(
ofte
opt
sevi
ado
J
vill
ful
anc
cul
me
chs
cn(
cat
ani
ale
eo
WA»HI!fOTOII--!ri»«*Tr»l.
19
^e are poHrtiti of ««nie
(Hcitibly chvimbcr, there
f Wasliington, by Artipv
jer, one of George Cliif
lexcelled in execution,
ol, is a prospect of ex-
id, the nch meadow* ot
producU of a pro»pcrouH
ous surface of the country
inct, till the inountain« of
\e iicere. ,
ding, though yet incom-
Aire of upwardi of ninety
fatural Hilton hn« lately
vc and valuable collection
to it, which are deposited
le Academy, will well re-
irisitor. The Lyceum has
of its proceedings i and,
:, will add much to the lite-
e place. The ArBenal, the
wl, and various other insti-
caveller, and speak highly
t of this rising city. But
! is the Canal Basin. The
eight miles above Albany,
le Hudson, until they reach
canal then enters the river,
t in length, and from eighty
with ten feet water. Thii
mole eighty feet wide, and
mtion worthy, from its mag-
ms line of inland navigation
ly gentlemen distinguished
d their high character ( and
ing objects of association in
General Schuyler, situated
city. It will recall many of
he revolution, and will be
honourable and boundless
in the possession of the de-
scendants of him who so well performed tlie dutici of itj*
owner, it will still be recollected as the soot where Uie gene-
rous Schuyler received and entertained the unlortuiiatc Hur-
poyne, burying in oblivion the injuries he had sustained Irom
liim by hi* wanton devsHtatiou at Saratoga. At the opposite
or northern extremity of Albany is the house ol the patrooii,
tieneral Stephen Van Kcnsselacr, embowered in groves and
" On 'leaving Albany for Saratoga, the traveller may select
either of two routes:— that to the iiortli-west through Sche-
nectady, a distance of thirty-nine n^'ks i or that along th'..
western shore of the Hudson through Watcrford, a distance
of only thirty-seven miles. ,., . _r t .u.*
The chief advantages of the route i y Wutrrfonl, arr _ that
the road passes through a much more pleasant and t»uclcly
Bettle«l country, and that we have an opportv, ,'»y of • iKjting
the Cohoes Falls, on the Mohawk. Inimedwlely attc- leay-
inir the city, indeed in iU suburbs, the ^rand cam ascemli
from the Hudson, and continues along the namiw mace be-
tween it and the road, as far as the village of minhm^on,
five miles. Us co.iwe is along the meadows or flats ot t s
river, and in these pails the land is fertile and well culUvatet
but to the left it becomes more barren. The n> if"' "»»«'•*
stream, as we pass along, appeiu-s sometimes j' oiv. :y bor-
dered with groves of acacia, elm, sycamore an ' otUe 'rees,
often thickly covered with vines t at other jn.es, tht scene
opens, and the river is seen gliding along, chequered witll
several islands, while the opposite banks rise more steeply,
adorned with wood, cultivation and neat houses.
About three miles to the westwanl of Waslungt.n is tlie
villaire of Nishtyutut, a settlement of the iihakerti a peace-
ful and happy community, gratlually increasing in numbers
and in wealth. They are distinguished not on ,. i y the pe-
c«aiaritics in their mode of worship, but by theur skill in the
mechanic»l <«rts, their industry, excellent tarming and hberal
charities : and though we may be disposed to smile at the
cntlmsiasm which displays rchgion in so strange a hght, we
cannot but admire ti»e effects it has produced on theu- social,
and apparently their moral state. , ^. . . ,,
Leaving Washington, we cross the canal, which now wtntU
alone onourlet\, and arrive in one mUe sX GthbonsmUe, a
aounsWng UtUe village, cent, n • ■ about filty houses, and
■-A'P^,?
S'.
54 OIBBOSBTUW-BSITEU STATUS' AttSF.KAl.
.re ot B™'X SRte ■» Ito tW"* *""• •»"<»"'■■ J
incvewte. Near this place i» i" . j
„, of building. P-ejentmR a I'S. »f "XJ^iaid
t=rf?et'i^T;^^™sr%A.j».;s
painted, and in ^^^ ««= "^^ ^^'^^J^^^^of UrAm^ca,,
walks thi-ongb the depot, f ^^««*^„; f/j,^' ""^re all well sup-
order. l"e public P™!"^"'™,, •'^ , * eniovs such com-
.„d the «"P?°f i -^■^^"♦jtS r„7reS^b!lild,ngs. over
T^'**^Xidef T^le taSmeut was commenced m
mf unLr £ direcUon of colonel BomforcK of the ord-
1814, unuer uic ui ,„„ ,,,.„,, for some years under the
nance department. « J^*!^,f J<^ J"! oPthe same department,
direction of major Dall.K an omcuotine v ^^ ^^^
who has matured .tsde^dsntoa^^^^^ .^
Seared L^bn^n^ll^f Stdnance department, subo.
^^rm^^lSety opposite to Gibbon^^^^^^
S^^sf rdeZcrtorcomtat no distant day. a great
» Spafford'i Gazetteer, p. *«•
manu
of gr
river,
flecti
jacen
and c
of st(
Troy
build
are n
able
guisl
by hi
Tl
andi
in Tl
salut
by e
thosi
instr
the!
Tlie
song
and
phili
nom
1)
lecti
a8tr<
surv
Dur
exai
as tl
histi
I
ing
ofli
con
latii
culi
li
tior
ATts' ARSESAI..
trade. It has a bell and
town clocks, sm-veyors'
ilh a good chui-ch, and
s here on the canal, and
into the Hudson, which
doubt occasion its rapid
Jnited States' Arsenal I a
front on tlie river, and
,'.iive by one hundred and
if buildinRS for quarterg,
on the most extensiVR
e principal military depot
ion • It has also a dock
;ral small offices and out-
yle of architecture, neatly
rhere are pleasant gravel
by rows of tlie Amencati
rhe shops are all well sup-
:, and the stores of eveiy
t state of preser>ation and
probably little short of a
i depot enjoys such com-
,\ical position, that it will
s line, and be extended to
e to the national resources,
:e prepai-ation. The canal
It and rear buildings, over
limeut was commenced iii
loncl BomforcK of the ord-
for some years under the
cur of the same department,
an excellent system of eco-
l States' arsenal at Rome iB
rdnance department, suboi'-
onsville, on the eastern side
u, which, though it suffered
of June 1820, still ranks as
i, from its situation and re-
., at no distant day, a great
!tt««r, p. ««•
TROT.
AS
manuliicturing place. It is situated on a low and level piece
,.f CTOund, at the head of the tide, scarcely raised above tlie
river, and is formed by one main street, bending with its in-
flections, and crossed by others miming eastward to the ad-
iacent hills. The view is extensive; but the quantity ot pines
and cedars, spread over the face of the country, gives an air
of sterility and dreariness to the scene. The popu ation ot
Troy is about seven thousand. There are several public
buildings, and tlie schools and houses of reh^ous worship
are numerous. Its Lyceum has already risen into consider-
able celebrity ; and Professor Eaton, one of the most distm-
guished scientific gentlemen of the country, has enriched it
by his labours. , ^ • • v • „
The Patroon, whose life seems to be spent in judicious
and munificent acts of beneficence, has recently estabhshed
in Troy an institution which cannot fail to produce the niost
salutary consequences to society, and is worthy of imitation
by eveiy m.^n of large means, and a soul proporUoned to
those mei'iis. This institution is a school for the purpose ot
instructing persons who may choose to apply themselves, in
the application of science to the common pm-poses of lite.
Tlie principal object is to qualify teachers, lor instructing the
sons and daughters of farmers and mechanics, by lectiires
and otherwise, in the a,)plicatiGn of experunentol chymistry,
philosophy and natural histoiy, to agriculture, domestic eco-
nomy, the arts and manufactures.
During the summer term, Vhe students attend courses of
lectures on chymistry, on experimental philosophy, includmg
astronomy, on so much mathematics as is necesswy for land
surveying, on geology, mineralogy, Jjotany and zoology.
During these le!tures each student has the opportunity to
examine specimens, and operate with >"* o*"^"'^' f° ^
as to become familiar with every important subject of natural
histoiy, and eveiy manipulation. , j •„ „;„
DurinK the winter term, each student is employed in giy-
me experimental and demonstrative lectures, on the subjects
of his iimmer coui^e of instruction. He also hears an enUre
couwe of lectures on each subject-also on the laws rcgu-
lating town officers and jurors, and on the social duties pe-
culiar to farmers and mechanics. . J u _-
In the summer term, tiie students are exercised by sec-
tions, under the direction of the teachers, in the art of mo-
m
V't
56
TBOT.
5b —
*nd hvyei-s. pnining- ^f «' ^"3"^ood, scantling and boartls,
and distances, "'f «f '"?,Se- S^g casksT taking mea-
at the workshop in th« school buadmg^m«« ^^^
toqualify them for makmgtep««an^^^^^ o^^ ^^^^^.^
when a professional art«t IS Jtamnd^^^ y^^^^ ^^^^^
in the work-shop, it .s "^"Xe mechanical arts ; but for
qualified for exercismg »"y*>**S~di8tant mechanic.
Avoiding the delay »"d «S £S-equire a set of took
to accomi^hsh a P^T^f',^^"*^^^ ^d'r t is well known, that
E?H^;r»OTS?rp^
correct views on such subject. f ^y,g
most estnnable citizen wiw n^ i j. ,. ^ from that por-
institutioP, »^«^-,^''*^«'",f J^clietV ^H^''^ '" "*"^
tion of the wealthy ^la** «[^«"f y-J^^^^i ^nd selfish views ,
appears to be the P'?'""^°"t£Ps™^^^
^thout recoUectmg ^^^^^ the tone use o^r^' ?^ ^^^,^ ^^
even to fame, to ^-^P^^^^^^'j^*" *S^^^^ their wealth to
which they are aiming, « .^%*P^''^Xm the eyes of their
9uch objects as these, J!^,"4°c?s of v^nei-ation andlove.
feUowHjilizensandnviketl unobjtw^^^^ .^ ^^^
At Old Bank Place, m ^«"&P^o„ to Grem Island,
dam, from the eastern »»»°'t I nS,Kecii^^ of hydra.dic
and the celebrated sloop ffj? ^ "^le^n hSed felt long.
""J'^^'^Tet iS. t^d di: iXS isTarge enough for
and nme f^et li g^» , and ^^ic ^ . ^^ ^^ ^^^ Watcrlord,
the sloops employ ea ncre •»"" »'■ *^ fourteen feet long nsule,
pouriu
a seen
pictun
An
Troy,
lation
stance
Doncl
"H
the wi
river
dance
swam
turnet
Thee
from 1
withsl
it a la
wards
somet
the al
ceivei
conlii
ascen
miles
cxce]
shoali
Fn
isab(
brant
three
menc
nearl
a mil
widtl
Islan
strea
calle
the8<
throi
HOUtl
ler.l
'JVHALE ISUSU— MOHAWK XITEtt.
57
planting by roots, cuttings
' fanns, calculating heights
'cod, scantling and boards,
auging casks, taking mea-
ty and pressure of rivers,
collecting and preserving
ther laborious exercises as
chool.
i are exercised by sections,
lilding, in the use of tools,
, and performir £,• small jobs,
thand. By such exercises
led that students shaU be
te mechanical arts ; but for
f caUing a distant mechanic,
DBS not require a set of tools
ides, it is well known, that
)n, young persons acquire a
hich will ever after inspire
Ls to close the career of the
planned and endowed this
lis feelings be from that por-
»tv, whose sole object in lite
F personal and selhsh views;
le use of riches, the true road
that standing in the world at
ipplication of their wealth to
an on tlicm the eyes of their
ibiects of venei-ation and love,
ipper part of the city, is the
the Hudson to Green Islam,
I noble specimen of hydraulic
ut eleven hundred feet long,
ck, which is large enough for
It Laiisingburg and Watcrtord,
I and fourteen feet long inside,
,d nine feet lift. The cost of
inety thousand dollars,
sist of Troy is a fine cascade,
Ida falls. It is formed by the
^she3 from the liigh lantl*. «»"
pouiing down through wild ravines and woody dells, affords
a scene which will attract the admiration of the lovers ol the
picturesque.
An island in the Hudson, opposite to tbts upper part ot
Troy, is known by the name of Wliale Isla-id. This appel-
lation is probably derived from the following ".urious circum-
stance, thus mentioned by the old Dutch hiswjrian Vander
Donck, in his entertaining description of the 'NoordtRivier.
" Here I cannot oinit to relate, although something out of
the way, tliat in the spring of 1647, when the water m the
river was fresh almost to the bay, occasioned by the abun-
dance of water coming down, two whales of a reasonable size
swam up the river more than forty (Dutch) miles; and one re-
turned, and stranded about ten or twelve miles from the shore.
The otlier remfuned stranded on an island or bank, not far
from the great Cahoe's falls. The fish was very fat ; for not-
withstancfing that the inliabitants of Rensselaer-wyck boiled of
it a large quantity of train oil, the river for three weeks after-
wards continued' very oily, and covered with grease. Ye:^
sometimes, while the fish was decaying, the stench infected
the air so much, that to the leeward it might have been per-
ceived to the distance of two miles. I cannot say, (wgely
continues the historian,) what could have induced this fish to
ascend the river so high, being at that time upwards of forty
miles from all salt or brack water, and out of his usual course,
except it might be, tiia' he was allured by the numerous
shoals of fishes which he met with."
From Gibbonsville to the bridge over the nver Mohawk,
is about three miles. This river enters tlie Hudson in four
branches, or sprouts as they -■? termed, and thus forms
three conaderable islands. Tiw first, Grten Island, com-
mences just above Gibbonsville, and extends up the river
nearly two miles, and sometimes spreads to the width of half
a mile ; the next. Van Sckai/^s Island, is about tiie same
width, but not quite so long, and is sometimes called Cohoes
Island; the third, which is directly opposite the main
stream of the Mohawk, and much smaller than the others, is
called Haver Island. The American anny was stationed on
these islands, in August 1777; and many of tiie brea-stworks
thrown up by them are still to be seen. It was the most
southern point to which they retreated, under General Schuy-
ler, before the then victorious Burgoyne ; and here they in--
58
lANSlWOBCBO— C0B0E9 FAttS.
heir
tended to mate adespe-te s^ml in the Js^^^
fortune was n.ore prop.t.ous. At^^^* *V^^^ aispelka tfiei
marched northward, »"^ a brilhant victory P
apprehensions, aiid »^'»1^'\* ,^ T^e^^^^ Hudson, is Lan-
i)n the opposite or e^^tcn-iis^me o the ^ ^
dn^hurg, three mi es above J'oy' »" population of about
.ov^ ofconsiderabU. '•" '^^^^^^^^^^ XZ several places
E KtnKr^ ^^rn:Arpre-eminence which it
seems likely to retain. , . unfortunately so con-
The bridge ''•^'•"^^^^e Mohawk 9 ^ntort y^^ ^^
Btructed as to prevent t'^'=,^W,'?'l" erossinR it. From this
of the scene wWh VJ^'^""^ '^^^\yTS„hZfhlls are seen, in
.pot, us we look up the f^^^'^\\,''^^^TZ period of
aTl their '^'^K'^fi'^rthrl usSy vl tXth^ streSn is not
the year m which they ""^^"""Se fenced by the whole
fuU. and instead of «"« ««'J^^^Sy cCred. and several
of the river, the rock is ""Xl'^^^Ji^f-i^umstakce.
sepai^te water-falls are fo'm'^.d- Th« ^"^^™Xrk ied hue of
p^duces a feature of &''=^*.J^f*"'?^f finely contrasted with
{he rocks which are ti»«,t "^i^^f^^u^aK a<^ros8 them,
the silvery whiteness of the »bi^a^^^^^ ^^^
The rock from side to side « =* »^* ™ on each bank the
the heiglit of the faU IS sad J^^e^e e,ny ^^ ^^^ ^^^^
cliffs nse to a consideiable c evauo • i ,„ ^jnter.
dark red stone, and cro^^n^d w^J^ ^^^^"^^^ j^^^awk, then
tlie scene is one of much •T'0'!^^^V"^ „ ^^^^ and not
tiful. becomes truly '^^"^""Vthe co" rocks,
SheirsCir:oSro^\:tc^^^
^ said, that when the -yy^-J^J^f ,S SiSVni
dians, they were !" ^^^'^'trk c3 dowfi the Mohawk,
articles of trade in ^^f 'J, ^,t'Vir they carried tlieir boats
'^^ ErriplSroi- S circumst^nce. old
Vand
that I
__,^,„ t .*j— "*->*'-■'*"' "V*,".
lOEB FALLS.
(1, in the last resort. But
er a short delay, they again
ant victory dispelled Uieir
erty of their countrjr.
,ve of the Hudson, is Lan-
r, and nine from Albany, a
I with a population of about
ilemy, a bank, several places
of extensive manufactories;
up to it in certain sUtes ot
la pre-eminence which it
rk is unfortunately so con-
ment by the traveller of any
If on crossing it. From tlus
the Cokoes Falls are seen, in
y. In summer, the period ot
illv visited, the stream is not
ascade formed by the whole
irtially covered, and several
This circumstance, however,
mty; for the dark red hue ot
,3ed, is finely contrasted with
Team breaking across them,
bout seven hundred feet, ana
,e seventy. On each bank the
nation, composed of the same
with forest trees. In winter,
Ki-andeur: the Mohawk, then
I an immense stream, and not
, as to form one vast and entire
of the river below, twenty or
e scene, which is always beau-
.ent and sublime— while the
anks, the colour of the rocks,
woods, increase ite picturesque
luitry was inhabited by the In-
of transporting the skins and
■k canoes down the Mohawk,
> falls, they carried tlieb boats
ng of this ckcumstance, oia
WATERVOUD — BALLSTOW SPniNOS.
S9
VanderDonck relates the following anecdote:— "It chanced
that an Indian, with whom I myself was well acquainted,
accompanied by his wife and child, with about sixty beaver
skins, was descending the river in the spring, wlien tiie
stream is most rapid, intending to trade witli the Nether-
landers. Not being careful to come to in time, not re-
garding the current enough, and relying too much upon
his own powers, before he was awaie, he was carried down
by the stream, and notwithstanding he exerted himself to
the utmost when it was too late, the rapids precii)itated him,
with his bark canoe, his wife and child, his beaver skins, and
other packages which lie had with him, from tlu; top to the
bottom of the falls. His wife and child were killed, most of
liis goo^ lost, and his canoe dashed to pieces ; but lie saved
his hfe, and I have frequently conversed with him since, and
heard hun relate the story."
From the bridge across the Mohawk, one mile brings us
to the village of Waterford. It stands on an alluvial flat,
forming the point between the Hudson and Mohawk, is well
laid out, and has about nine hundred inhabitant, with two
churches, a public school-house, and other buildings. It is
a place of considerable business ; and great expectations ai-e
founded, and no doubt with propriety, on the benefit it must
derive from the improvements in the navigation of the Hud-
son, and the passage of the Champlain canal through it.
From Waterford, the road continues along the west shore
of the Hudson, the alluvial Wats of which are principally a
stiff ai-gUlaceous loam; and the river hills have the same kind
of soil, mixed with sand and giavel. The country is in places
well cultivated ; the canal winds along on the left, while
frequent openings present views of the river, occasionally
diversified with islands. There is nothing, however, whicli
will excite the particular interest or attention of the traveller,
during the stage of nine miles from Waterford, which brin^
hiirt to a village called tlie Borough, just above which is
.ttUhony'a KilZ an excellent miU-sUeam, and the northern
boundary of the township.
The road to the Springs here leaves the Hudson ; and
striking off directly to the left, passes for fifteen miles through
the centre of Saratoga county to BaUston Springs.
The country, as we approach BaUston, becomes an open
champaign, agreeably UHdulat«d with sw«lU of a moderate
-■■nfw f ii' . ' W l J't 'W tSH^ ' J ^y
60
BALLSXOIC 8»KIH6f.
dactive. '^"* *^f " f^mer, and it is never dif-
them open to the visitors in Uiesumme^^ ^^
ficult to obtain •"^—'J^^J^^^etw™ principal boarding-
rP^^rjLE on the west side of tL vUlWe. and neav
houses— ^Wr«rfg« «. ?" "'f.V. ,• _ ^uj, every convemencc,
the old Spa, t/P*'='°':^,i^,'TKc^ndW».°^^
anda garden of unm^led exgence-^^^^^
gouth-west, which IS large, comtomoie aiiu ^^,
chief establishment, ^of ve^/<>; «f j^^^^^Hie Sam_
strangers, as weUj^tJat of the i^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^ f
Souei, which is dehghttully »'V7„Yl:"tv feet lone, exclusive
theviUa^e. « is one hundred and^.x^^ J U^^^^
plan
estal
Tl
One
the<
beer
publ
land
stiff
or si
runs
chai
80UI
the
ciUt
peri
air-l
and
pos
on i
A
Stat
can
wh:
of;
wh
cor
yes
de]
ves
pri
of
ma
wl
we
de
do
tit
iisei.
strong gravelly loam, wUl«
I some parts, the gravelly
le whole, the land is pro-
is; for apple orchai-da It i»
• the best quality for cider,
owth, and embrace a very
amy lands have deciduous
k, maple, beech, birch and
iscriminate mixture, as a all
same spot 5 pine is pnnci-
is, or the marshes, though it
deciduous trees. Some ol
se with a gentle ascent, and
ate elevation, an eiK^nt and
quailed. The farms, farni
intermediate plains and lulls,
I a lively interest to the per-
ilkton Springs were, y\^ovt
le and generally attended ot
.nent , but the greatei- variety
ily the superiority of the Con-
! given to the neighbouring
preference. .
which has arisen entirely trom
s of about a hundred houses,
1 laid out. They are most ot
e summer, and it is never dit-
,8, on terms to siut every de-
are two principal boarding-
St side of the vdlage, and near
ling, with every convemencc,
iccllence-and Coretf's, on t he
ifortable and convenient, mo
p for the accommodation ot
he roost foshion, is the Sam
tuated, on the eastern edge ot
i and sixty feet long, excrusive
lich are each one hundred ana
mmodation to a hundred and
(gether tlian any hotel either at
-land, though much on the same
VAIXSTOR SrBIVOt.
61
plan ( and is said to have cost Mr. I.owe, t-ie gentleman who
established it, from thirty to forty thousand doUars.
There are only two springs in general use at Ballston.
One of them (that which was first discovered) « situated 111
Uie centre of the town, and is caUed the Public WeU, havuig
been reserved for the benevolent purpose of serving the
public, by Sir William Johnston, in tlie original grant ot the
land to private individuals. This spring issues from a bed ot
stiffi' lie clay and gravel, which lies near a stratum ot schist
or shale, newly on a level with the brook or nvulet which
runs through the town, the course of which has been
changed by a dyke or canal, in order to divert it trom the
source of the springs. The well is five or six feet deep, and
the water rises up in such abundance, that it would be diHi-
ciUt to ascertjun the quantity which it pours out in a given
pericfl of time. Immense quantities of gas, in Uie torn ot
air-bubbles, break with a sort of explosion on the suiface ;
and whenever the water continues at rest for any time, ex-
posed to tlie atmosphere, a slight irridescent peUicle appears
on its surface. „ . .^ »
A circular vessel of wood forms the well in its present
state, uito tlie side of which a trough is introduced, which
carries oft' the redundimt water. The sides of the vessel m
which the water is confined are covered with an incrustation
of a light brown colour, and the whole channel through
which It flows contains such a quantity of this suipstonce,
constantly depositing, that it is necessaiy to remove it every
year, in order to give a free passage to the waters of the weU.
This deposition is erroneously supposed to be the n-on
depofflted from the water. But this is not the case : it efler-
vesces, and nearly dissolves in acids, a proof that it consists
principally of earthy carbonates, coloured by oxyde ot uwn.
The next well is situated about two hundred yards west
of the public one. It lies very low in the valley, and not
many feet above the level of the rivulet. The soil froni
which the water rises is much the same as tliat ot the public
weU, but close to tiie spring is a peat morass, several teet
deep, which is annuaUy accumulating, and wdl continue to
do so till it is drained. .„ .. - .^ l • _
This spring, which is called Lowes WeU, from its being
touated on the private property of that genUeman, presents
iiuiiiLllJl'il'liMnT
63
■ AlHTOIf SPBIBIOi-
IH^i
exactly the same appearance aB the public well just df
"^Se mineral waters on which the wMe^^^^^
fountains, the thouKlitless '''"BX, V* "^*^'^^^^^ others have
„„ „, of d«.»t, of tanehl " »f"W„ . ^j, „i, for
'"iISaS rf,r™u„d, toft .. B.««oo ^ S«.t^
s^j;r. 'js;r;».'f.*So»v.» «.o»ve «o«d ^
imp
obs
CXf
.ihii
■/oil
or(
hej
J
wh
roc
*
nla<
aw
mi
lit.
fos
tir
ru
it
its
th
(T
c!
of
m
ef
C!
w
ir
t(
t(
a
I SOS.
the public well just df-
the whole celebrity, and
ce of the place depends,
ot very unpleasant to the
y differ from the Seltzer
salt, with some iron, mag-
L-d wr, that renders them,
and bright as Champaign,
in gout, rheumatism, and
>rt to tl»em seems more for
sinal view they are indiscn-
s who think they have any
cting, tliat the very quality
benehcial wliere properly
her case as higlnly injurious,
y and the sane, the prudent
ttely around die fashionable
.r of heaUh is oftener heard
drink because others have
:he draught be one of plca-
•f iujuiy- , ., f„„
asses over a sandy soil tor
nerally level, except an oc-
Dt fertile, is well settled and
icipally composed of two or
ary formation, but these are
of sand, that it is difficult to
t can only be done by an
rulets, which w some places
oth at Ballston and Saratoga,
masses of stone, commonly
large blocks of quaitz, and
Lve rocks. These scattered
litted from the neighbounng
'lied to the rocks in situ, and
n; Uiey are found »n «veiy
•tion of an extensive flood at
of Ballston, an excellent op-
iig the situation of the strata.
BAW.STON SPBIKOS.
6?
K small rivulet nms through it, which has laid bare an entire
vS.o{ fl"» "'".^.'' "'«"=,^'^/
n,ark.ble tWt than finding seams «' "'^"^'^^l^^ ^u s<^m
terin a stratum that is purely calcareous. «"< * "V^^/.':^™
to streiiirthen the opin on of those who conceive that lime
l°,d fli t are convertible into each other bv natxind processes^
The ingenious and intelligent Dr. Meade, to whom we are
•nSy hfdebted in tliis part of our litUc volume, and whose
64
RAIAT004 tFRinOI.
tmy on the mine,. « water, of Balbton and f;;';**^* ^"^^^^^
brfn the hand of every Uavellcr, WiW "«!' ccd to subpLct.
Ltamonrthc other mineral treasures of tlu» d.str.ct coal
™K,h? he Und thoujfh an yet no trace of it hiw been d sco-
T£ on SelfS theLrth. No -talhe -,„, o ore
have been discovered in the neighbourhood i yet, froniUe
Sure of the soil, and its geological formaUon. it would seem
*"?o^SSifirtrv-eUer. however the.. « yet open jj
Uiis district a large and unexplored field, which wdl nchly
rcwaTthe labour of exami.iation , and its plants and mme-
J^ would not affortl him less delight than the gaver v:i.tor
of tljese scenes finds amid objects more ammated, but not
"Thi"Se'?f Saratoga Springs is situated on a sandy
nliin w^t a Kcntle descent to the south. It is handsomely
fid oul and contain, upwards of one hundred hov.ses, many
of wWeh arc taverns anil boarding-houses for the accommo-
SLtionofX summer visitors. The three pnnc.pal hotels
are Concrm H8 appearance as to attract
pSuKti e."lt''£rin a ..ttirvalley or -adow. be-
[ween two steep banks, and rises m a/^'-^lr^J^f '^ °„7,
formation This cone s about five feet high, hoUow, ant
Sa hole at the top, about nine inches wide. fronj^vl^J'
the water can be seen in a state of agitation, as if boding,
formation admits of wi easy cxpLumUou. This, as weU a3
hgi
0(.
iton nml 9arato(f« should
WiW induced to suspect,
urcs of tluH district, coal
race of it tias been disco-
No metiiUic veins of ore
ibourhood i yet, from tlie
I formation, it would seem
ver, there is yet open in
id field, which will richly
1 and its plants and mine-
ght than the gayer vii'tor
more animated, but not
M is situated on a sandy
; south. It is handsomely
me hundred houses, many
f-houses for the accommo-
1»e three principal hotels
md Union Hall, aU build-
) with much elepance and
oom, a circulating librwy,
neans of amui^ement, which
tuii that always must attend
•iug-place.
round Saratoga differs but
pt tlittt tlie hills are not so
eiisive. It is in this valley
imerous, and do not greatly
vhich has been longer used
ch is known by the name ot
^8 appearance as to attract
l.ttle valley or meadow, be-
i in a conical rock of its own
five feet hifjh, hollow, and
line inches wide, from which
;e of agitation, as if boding,
ch rises to the surface. An
I cone, four or five inches
je of the ground, gives an
The whole of this curious
tplunatiou. This, as weU «3
■iRiToaA flrmifa*.
6J
all the sprinM, contains a large portion of lime hekl in solii-
Son by the excess of carbonic acid with which they abound.
When exposi-d to th« atmosphere, the carbonic aci.l flics oH.
JJdt t^lm" is precipitated !n the form of a stalactite, <.rcalc
?ufo At the first appea«"ance of this water, on the curiae .
th s process took place at the edges and sides ot the uell,
and at kngth. in tire progress of time, the whole of this cone.
consUtngol- carbonate oT lime, was formed, tlie well always
S^ it was enclosed, and continuing to flow or hnd t^
ownlevcl at the top , till either from accident or < csign an
on^n ne wiL made at the bottom of the cone, which now
Xes an exi? to the water, requiring nothing more to restore
ftlo its former situation than carefully to cTose the open.nK
at the bottom, when Uic water, as before, would rise to meet
'"Fomerly'this was the only spring in use , but since the
nbce has been so much resorted to, a luimbi^ "f.™*
Kive » Tn usea.i. in every desert,
;.::ta thij at lea^ tor the p--^ j|- 'rsiS:;
of the western hemUpherc ; and t rom June to "eP"/""^!'
M part, of the eountri pour f'"^')' «|f '' J^'^I^;;;"^^^^^^^^^^
orimaire of faahion, or perhaps of hcaJth. I ne actnc, or
S^e li^ng acZ who animate it. are for ever movnK m
cndle«"ucce«ion, eaeh day bring, new facejj, jnd eaeh .by
urcwnU .ome character to laugh at or ««•""«• J7?";,,
meiVin their n»l iral attitude, and true colour., and in aU
S varietj VVe may laujh at the conceited. adm.r« the
Seat ami »WW«*'th&e Md--.ee the vulgar and the
SeelumblFd together wiU»out d^tmct^n-mjrurtm rf
clE atTcMt for a .hort time, extract some pleasure from
t«^«f S^towl"like aU other fashionable watering places,
:ndt?Se^must either vi«t it »nd>XtSto"-
or take a description of it in the wortls of Mastci Simkin.
Of all the gay places the world can afford,
«v centle and simple for pastime adored, .
?fnf baUs and fine'^singing. fine buildings and fvprir^S
Fine rides, and fine views, and a thousand line tlungH.
(Not to mention the sweet situation and a"")
What place with Uiese Sprmgs can ever compare t
Tirst in manners, in dress, and in fashion to sUinc,
Saratoga, tlie glory murt ever be Uuiic '•
KOI.
id the heaVmff virtues of
principal objects wliir.li
.0 annually Hoclc thither.
! an <>a«i» •« every desert,
lent, the Spa or Buxton
from June to September,
tlieir children, on the pil-
health. The acene, or
are for ever moving, in
1 new faces, and each day
I at or admire. Wc ace
. true colours, and in all
he conceited, admire the
1 — sec the vul(?ar and the
; distinction — ministers of
philosophers, wiU, poets,
jns. There are few who
street some pleasure from
I too, for occupying time
08» to find those whc wdl
Billiards and cards «lr'nk-
corge, or the field of Bur-
r; and in the evening there
ke principal hotels. In a
shionable watering places ;
and judge for themselves,
wortls of Master Simkin:—
i can afford,
ne adored,
i buildings and springs,
a tltousand fine things,
atlon and air)
( can ever compare »
in fashion to shine,
be Uiiiie '■
aitsn's fAtu.
EXCURSION TO GI.KNN'S IWl.I.S, WD l.;VKB
OEOUOE.
Fiw persons leave Saratoga Springs, wllhout making an
excursion to these two plar.M , and tlu; fatigue of the jour-
ney will be amply compensated by the pleasure a traveller
receives in visitmg them. , #., i; _„
It is eighteen miios from the Springs to Clenn i talh, on
the Hudson. The whole journey \» over r. dreary barren,
covered with pines, occasionally mtermirgled with a few
other troesi and the road is through a c.ecp sand, tul ot
small hills, often stony, and intersected by jad bvulges nidely
thrown across the streams and swamps, whicli trequentiy
occur. The distance of the housis from each other, and
the numerous cross roads, nearly as largj as tlie mam otie,
which pass in every direction, sometinr.es occtision a littJa
embarrassment, but this difficulty is fu it disappearing with
the improvement of the country. Tlu Hudson «'-«>«=«
by a bridge, and about one hun(lred yard.i from it, on a higU
bank, is the village of Oknn's Fulls- ,
Tliis cataract is one of the most mtercitii.g objects which
the traveller will meet with in his whole tour. It is inrleea
hiKhly grand and bcautifidj and though it is not in any af f ,? '3 Eel's"o bl'L d^
of the fall m about ^^^^y ^c ' ubstan^^^^^^^ bottom of the
of the limestone *« ^^^^'J«' "^^'^"'^two great cascades are
river appears perfectly flat, l ne "^" b . ^ ^^ich
divided in the middle by ^ '»!f ^^PXep"|lenbetween it
extends down the stream. »"* '\^^*/the wate« precipitate
irXruTrpt^and-fSfc'^^ctof wUd and ro-
"Sov'eX^Wavery strong a- d^^^^^^^^^^
so as to turn the water jnto ^^r^^^^'^^^S and fixed
convey it to several j?'"^*^ T^tc,„ ^^ th^^^^ seem almost to
just on the edge of the Fccip'ces, in^tx y ^^^ ^^^^^
iang in the air, and t^'^^BM; ft much diversity. A feed-
beauty of the scenery they f^^„'^Xm the Vdson, two
er itself a navi^bU- canal e^^^^^^ jy
rules above »jlenn s tans, """"s. . e^ers at K ngsbury,
"•"' ^^*'r a^ShTvXi of Fort eSS. It I aW
two miles above tne y.uab ^^e Hudson,
seven tAiles ong, and 'f^J^ 7„-\j^„dred and seventy feet
twelve tect n» height, »"f , *^^^" "^there are to be thirteen
long, where It h=^%*£f ^S^iS wSor the main canal
locks near the east end, «"Pl»y'"f jA.„Uc works. In the
navigation and v^l^irnme rock cttS^^^^^^ below the
xvor;h a little attention fem toims s. ^^^^^ ^^^.
The basis ot the country here «^ "'^^.^^^ ^„a inter-
pact, but presenting spots ta^^
spersed, here and there, witii "»« "^S , ^he strata
entombed, in ages past, '" V^^ "'^''^^oi^^ ^ith tlie ut-
are pertecUy fiat^^anc^pJed ^^^^^^^
Pte^tfSt r'Sact^^SeK of hewn stones m a
building.*
. .. ,, ._ ,.„r....n h.>. pxtemlvr vciM, principliUy
• Satin spar is louim m t"'"».'*,""-,;j„erallv. it i* -fa brilliant wiint,
in th" fall. 11 rocks bi-lcw the budge , g™«^»"Ji'^„ ;„ ftbroiis structure.
wasc
neigl
pppe
Tl
BOUtl
small
of mi
from
servs
Tl
Fart
eard
of tl
the(
still
whit
peat
seer
Fi-ei
and
witl
rop<
grei
has
on
tot
ii Lif i ^.lj i .uHIW^Nl "l| ,l"l lif l l "
any others. The height
lat seems to be the depth
ice, as the bottom of the
two great cascades are
projecting rock, which
es a deepglen between it
ese tlie waters precipitate
ill in a direct course, the
thcr, have rent the rocks
a cataract of wild and ro-
im of logs is thrown across,
JUS troughs or races, which
are so scattered, and fixed
3, that they seem almost to
y cannot add to the nafave
It much diversity. A feed-
ids from the Hudson, two
ffh tlus village and Sundy
ich it enters at Kingsbury,
Fort Edward. It is about
■ a dam across the Hudson,
11 hundred and seventy feet
and there are to be thirteen
ing water for the main canal
c hydraulic works. In the
ck, on the island below the
cavations, water-worn, weU
pists. „
e is a black limestone, corn-
it are ci-ystalized, and inter-
e orffanic reniains of animals,
his raausoleiun. The strata
ion one another with tlie ut-
,n, perpendicular to the strato,
igement of hewn stones m a
„„ h..t pxtemiv^ veiM, principijUy
■eenerallv, it i> -fa brtlUam wiiiw,
!tm r't ?iniim Its ftbroiw .iructurc.
T»UTy 144.
tAKE GEOnGE. O*
From Glenn's Falls to Lake George, a stage of nine miles,
the road passes through the same kind of dreaiy forest as that
before we reach the falls. The first part of the way is a very
deep sand, with small hills, and the country not very tluckly
settled ; the latter part is hilly and stony, as it crosses a
spur of those mountains which iiave beeu for some time visi-
ble on the west, and which, crossing the Hudson above, here
wind round and encompass the Takes. About two miles
before we reach Lake George, there is a fine view ol it from
the top of a hill. Descending this, the road passes through
a beautiful little plain, which bounds the head of the lake,
and extends on the left for a mile or two along it. This plwn
was cleared many years ago by the English, being in the
neighboui-hood of Uieir forts, and presents a finely cultivated
"^The^oad to the village of Caldmll, now leads along the
southern extremity of the lake, and close beside it, on a
small eminence, stands Fort George,- a small square fortress
of masonry, whose nuns are yet distinctly visible, and wuich,
from the importance of iU situation, would seem '.vorth pre-
servation and repair. . ^. • r
Turning to the left, the road passes through the ruins ol
FM WiUiam Henry, a considerable work, constructed ot
earth, by the British and colonists, to prevent the approach
of tiie French, so early as 1755. The walls, the gate and
the outworks, may yet be distinctly traced; the ditches are
still deep, and water may even now be drawn from the well,
which once suppUed tiie garrison. Though now silent,
peaceful and almost unnoticed, in former days it was the
scene of many a gallant and bloody conflict, where the
Fiench and English soldiers brought into a distant countiy
and an unknown forest, the bravery and hereditary hatted
with which they have met for centuries on the fields ot Eu-
rope. But the tumult of war has long since passed awayj
CTeen and fertile fields now cover theu- bones, and the time
has already come, when the ploughman looks with smpHse
on the mouldering implements of war, which he chances
to turn up in the furrow.
Scilicet et tempus veiilev, cuiu Snibus u.;s
Agricola, incurvo terram molitus aratro,
Exesa inveniet scabra rubigine pila:
mmntf^*
ig^ii^i^'
70
FOKT VllLIAM HEirnr.
Aut pravibus nistris galc|t, pvlsabit inanM.
The •..n,e"« »"•
The events of this dreadful dry caused the "^mediate
erection of Fort William Henry , but they were not the last
events of the same nature, of which this spot wa.s to be the
scene. As soon as the fortress was erected, the F vencli be-
eame sensible of the necessity of reducing or destroying it.
Accordingly, three attempts were made to ta.ke it; but they
aU proved unsuccessful. In the year 1757, ''"wevcr^about
two years after its erection, the Marquis de Montcalm, who
tlien commanded the French army, ^«te"n.ned to besiege it
in form. In August of that year, he landed ten tlioui«ind
men on the shor! of the lake, and summoned the torti-css to
r^der, the place where he landed is. still pomted ou^
and the remains of his batteries are yet visible. He mu *
powerfal train of artillery, and altliough the tort wid worto
72 MJIT VH-I-l*" HEJ»Rt-rO»T OXOEGE.
1 w-,n, three thousand men, and were most
were eM'r^^""^'^;^'*^,' ^Srcomm^^^^^^ Colonel Monroe, A
munition, and above all, the ™^ °' j.^rt Edward with
vice, and butchered them ' ' "i^^;^,*';^^^^^^^^ j^tUe children
without distinction, »"^\,ritt 1^^^^^^^ ^he
with ^''^<=«"^«t;?"f " °y;fo "JtiS. thro,.gh the defile of
massacre continued all -^'""S "?';'"';, ' mUemble prisoners,
the mountains and for_many m c . them^cmDK-i
especially fos..n\ ^^^^^:^^^':^i^r>,lo.ly ,Mle,
down m cold blood. U "^'S'" ;\\" ,, ^ of the battles
for it was the ««'^e gf"""^ijf Ti aiS^t eftort. w.re
"'YL°Sren h ' Sthl barbarians, but they were
madebyUiel-rencnioies ^^^ gamson
„ot restitunedi and the "J'^";'^".™,,^,^^^ by ti>e liu^^
with difficulty reached l^^'V^f^^^i P;[^!^opJ » i passed
although escorted by a ^^l^l^^^t^;'':^:\^c\. tiis tra-
all tw^ender it interesting to tlie traveller. The vie^ -rom
vt up"the lake, is exceedingly beauulul. On dw u^M^ the
» sUliman'a Travels, 163.
-FORT OXOmSE.
sand men, and were most
ander Colonel Monroe, it
e most honourable terms
;, in consideration of his
'eat guns, the want of am-
lure of Gentral Webb to
' idle at Fort Edward with
les of this catastrophe.
, most shamefully broken,
m's army, while the troops
the fort, diagged the men
Indians in Uie English ser-
L blood i they plundered all
•1 women and little children
iKKravated barbarity. The
> road, through the defile ot
cs, the miserable prisoners,
nK tomahawked and hewn
.11 be called the bloody dejilc,
was the scene of the battles
It is said, that eft'orts were
l,c barbarians, but they were
ble remnant of the garrison
kard, pursued by tlie Indians,
• French troops. " 1 passed
unaii, " upon which this tra-
nieii of the country still rc-
iifaniy."
elled to the ground by Mont-
It. Fort George was built .is
mmanding site, and dthough
of subsequent wai-s, was not
jlc event.*
;s of the army of General Bur-
iiiquibhed his connection wiUi
;o push his fr-*unes, without
j in the rear,
ctions, whici. this spotrcwes,
the traveller. The view from
beauiilui. Oil Uie nslit* ^^
Travels, i63.
LAKE oeougb. "
mountain comer immediately down to the water, leaving
scarcely room for a few neat settlements, which stand prettily
at its foot. On the left, the hills mount immediately Irom the
plain, at the distance of about half a mile from the lake, but
soon winding around, project into it in a bold promontoiy :
they are covered with a thick forest, which at the toot is
formed of deciduous trees, intermixed with evergreens ; but
as they rise, pine, hemlock, spruce and fir, assuirs then- pre-
rogative, and clothe the summits with perpetual verdure. In
front, a number of beautiful wooded islands are seen ; and
beyond them, the mountains, interlocking for a great distance
in a variety of sliades. . . , „.
We now enter Caldwell, the capital of Warren county, a
flourishing town, containing about sixty houses, a printing
office, a neat church, and the public buildings of the county.
The hotel is large, commodious and well furnished, so that
travellers who visit the lake will not suflier for want ot ac-
commodation. It is named after .lames Caldwell, a gentle-
man to whose liberality and public spirit it owes its existence,
and who has conferred on the whole district inestimable be-
nefits by his individual enterprise.
After reposing at night from the fatigues of a rough and
uncomfortable journey from Saratoga, tlie Uaveller should
arise with the dawn of day, to behold the beautiful sceneiy
of the lake, and sail for ..- hour on its placid bosom. It is
hardly necessary for us to describe the enjoyment of such an
excuKion; but the description which has been given by a
traveller, who seems to unite with a profound and accurate
knowledge of the works of nature, a glowing perception ot
her beauties, and a peculiar felicity in depicting them, is so
graphically correct, that we shall take tlie liberty ot msert-
'" "\n the first gray of the morning," says Mr. Siliiman,
««I was in the balcony of the inn, tidminng the fine outline
of the mountains by which Lake George is environed, and
the masses of pure snowy vapour, which, unrutHed by tlie
slightest breeze, slumbered on its ciystid bosom. During
all the preceding days of the tour, there had not been a
clear morning ; but now, not u cloud spotted the expanse of
the heavens, and the skv and the lake conspired to exalt
men' feature of this unriviiUed landsr-ape.
G
74
LAKK (IKORCIB.
doBcd, Mnd "*^'' *'"^;y .,,'„ ^..tii-ct . while tlie r reversed
^.as '-■'dere/ f;*ffllSd fromihe m^ exquisite of all
images, P^'-^^*;^ y/i^Sns7endent in U.e deep, and ad-
STbrthlXeTto~ 'which at the aan^e moment
v.-aa anxious to enjoy, tiotn *»"« P °J''"°"V„ ^n,e we had
clivity, wlnle the tw m bwTici o ^^^^.^^
shade, ^'"f JV^^"/;,. surface perfecUy distinct, began to
^"^'''Ttse'i^inTo Jinlow^ "ami clouds and cstles. and to re-
^T fnl the wate^l. if conscious that its donumon must
cede liom the y^*'!?,^ . , f ^he vapoui- formed a very
„owbeves.gned Thcieticato tne p ^^^^^^^^
beaviUlul part ^f/'^^^^^^ ' the bosom of the lake, soon
. This poHibly .s ,n '^^f^ZlX'^^''^^^^' ^^ 7
Iwd I Ww ao otUtr word lh«t d)d.
lAKT. Monr.r.-
n
rapid progress -, but the
g, that form the eastern
lingering shadows ot the
dawn was now fully dis-
■ast with their dark sides,
ti while their rcvewed
the most exqxiisite of all
ident in tlie deep, and ad-
lich at the same moment
le evening before, and we
and hastened to old Fort
)ne, still twenty feet high,
, rise upon a lull, about
hem shore of the lake. I
iropitious spot, the advaiic-
lich, by the time we had
T upon the mountain tops,
augmented by notliing but
g of day.
s, those that form the west-
(lated down their entire dc-
the eastern shore, except
ladow. The va])ouv, which
Itcned blending of light and
only in spots, and Iclt its
perfectly distinct, began to
louds and castles, and to re-
cious that its dominion must
of the vapoui- formed a very
it was the moveable light
the bosom of the lake, soon
»s of the mountains. At the
miles, the lake turns to the
rhlands i to the left is North-
visible from the foit. The
oint of juncture between tlie
d, meaning the rows of hay that are
«ic hay fs thrown into heaps. U
jptared in »omf places on the lake,
lake and the bay, ri>^os into lofty peaks und ndges, and fonns
in appearance the norllicin tK •..m.ty ol the lake. Up these
mountains, which arc even more grand and lofty than those
along the margin, the vapour, accumulated by a very dlignt
movement of the- utnio.phevc from the south, rolled m un-
mense masses, every moment chutignig their torni ; now
obscuring the mount;v.Ms almost entuely, and now veilmg
tiieir sides, but permitting their tops to emerge, m uncloud-
"" ••"Anxioils to witness, from the surface of the lake, the
first appearance of the sun's orb, we returned to our boat,
and in a few moments reached the desired position. Oppo-
site to u.i, in the direction -wards the nsing sun, was a place
or notch, lower than the general ridge of the mountains, and
formed by the intersecting curves of two dechvitaes.
" Precisely through this place, were poured iipon us the
first rays, which darted dcwn, in lines of burnished gold,
divermng and distinct, as if in a diagram. The ndge ot the
eastern mountains was fringed with Sre, for a mile rhe
numerous islands, so elegantly spnnkled tluwugh th. Ufce,
and which recently appeared and d.sappeared throu« the
rolling clouds of mist, now received the threct rays of tht sun,
and formed so many gilded gardens At i hill
orb was disclosed, as if he looked down with oompUicency,
into one of the most beautiful spots in this lower world, and,
as if gloriously representing his great Creator, he pronounced
it ' all very good.' I ccilainly never before saw the sun nse
with so much majesty. I have "ot exaggerated the effect ;
and, without doubt, it arises pnncipally from the fact, that
Lake George is so completely environed by a barrier oi high
mountains, that it is in deep shade, while the world^«)und
is in Ught; and the sun, already risen for some Ome, does not
dart a single ray on this imprisoned lake, tdl, having gamed
considerable elevation, he bursts, all at once, over the fiery
ridge of the eastern mountains, and pours, not a honzontaj,
but a descending flood of light, which instantly pi«^'':'"g the
deep shadows ^at rest on the water, and on the western
side of the eastern ban-icr, produces the finest possible effects
of contra.st. When Uic sun had attained a LtUe height nbose
76
I.1K.B sEonat.'
♦i,» mAuMttin we observed a cmioxis effect : a perfect cmic
veacLed the western » >"J^,; »"** ^''^^•/effect i^^pjosite to
represented a gjded sa-epje. ^ *« «»ect ^JP^^^^y^
rpc^oVsZe^^^cStfe^T^ shipe of the su.^.ts
of the mountains at this place. ,„,.._, _f t .ke Georcc
its shores seem to be composed of P"™*rL'*f„d insoluble
rStbslIl^erq tte wave, find nothin^^^^^^^ tbTu -
ru"n5te^szt:?ortsrS^^^^^^^^
and renders them turbid, f f"^!^. Xi'^^Y'the finest kind ;
Ti.p late abounds in fish, and those oi inc u»t •
there was a man in th>» vicinity, wl^o had U.e »^"^^^^^^^
rrXrt2'e"X';~ SiilnT'^^^^^^^ "V*"- Heu,«ltoacca-
plac
and.
thii
rng
nic
hai
mv
de
ne
tw
wl
by
toi
nil
al
aw
bil
IS effect : a perfect cone
sun, lav upon the water,
thich reached hulf across
ine of parallel rays, which
lie whole very perfectly
this effect i» opposite to
Iffence, it must probably
the shape of the summits
he waters of Lake George
, of the people who reside
it has no bottom ; but this
t inland sheet of water, ot
shows that it has probably
Iff longer than the lines ot
s remarkable, and no tem-
y be distinctly seen biUng
I the surface. The cause
if these waters is obvious,
ities of transition limestone,
f primitive rocks, made up
r very firm and insoluble
1 the lake is fed flow over
s find nothing to dissolve,
ed Clay, which abounds
mti^uous lake (Champlain)
; exists here.
d those of the finest kind ;
rred, and the salmon trout
which are elsewhere found;
I frequently weigh from ten
nd the lake arc steep and
uraUst a fine field for obser-
all primitive, covered with
and mhabited only by deer,
the last of which are very
ned by the rocks, m some
:. Sillimnn, " that a few ye«" ""j^^f
ad the singular power and the stiu
undsd by thcni. He ustd to »cca-
t.AKF. nroME. ■•
«l9rr« are remarkably elistinct , and their wild projections,
ffiutting p'-TontorL, present a scene of be»uty, lor ever
varvinir with the light, but always grand.
The lake is crowded with little islands, which appear, co-
vered with trees, to have risen as if by magic from the water,
on whkh they seem t„ flo.at. The one which is chiefly visrt-
ed. though perhaps it is imt the most pictm-esquc, ,^ Diamond
hlund!^5oolt four miles from Caldwell, where the quartz
crystals are found. . , _ _„„_..
This small island, scarcely covermg the area of a conmion
kitc£Sen, is inhabited by a famUy. who occupy a snmll
but comfortable house, and constantly explore the rocks for
mstol™ These are found lining the caviUes, and fonning
Ss in the limestone. These cavities are often bnlhantly
Sed with them , and doubtless it arose from thcu: falling
out? by the disinte^tion of the rock, that the crystals were
foimerly found on the shores of the island, and in the water.
\t^freLnt thev arc scarcely obtained at aU, except by
breaS the i4C The imWiate matrix of the crystal,
seems to be a mixture of fine granular quartz with liie hme-
stoTe : it is impressible by steel, but someUmes does not
iSe^e with acids, though ffenerally .t does «td feeWy
scratches glass. The crystals of this locality are ot the
commonfo?-m, verylimpii and often contain a dark coloured
^trUtgl^trnd^f^m Caldwell northw^^
thirtytix miiel to the celebrated pass where iW Ticmde-
St built, olie of the most important posts in the cominu-
Son between the United States and Canada, and which
hM been the scene of frequent contests. There the com-
munication is reduced to a small strait, which has a mp.d
TsSent of two hundred feet in one mile, round which it is
ne^tsarv to pass by land carriage. The strait continuea
twewTmu"sCc«iL« Point, anV' ifTP"-^"^ f"'"^^^''
where it empties into Lake Champlam, whence the passage
by waterTuninterruptcd into the St. Lawrence. Tte navi-
E of Lake Geoi^e is by means of rafts and Bat boats of
four or five tons burthen.
mulatc numbers of them in thi. manner, for ?""";*? .fi^Vu'tattJll l\X
^„,i^.fjisrsr.ara"sic'rh^.r.ts;«v"Sk^
bitten, and died."
iwsie(itfc»»Bh»*>* !•
7»
liKt dCOIIOI.
In roturninir from I.ake GeorRe to Saratoga, or Albany,
volume.
WfHlil|-Jl«li
ROVTS TO rklU OF MAOAU.
ALBANY TO THE FALL3 OF NIAGATIA.
M. M.
AtBATCT to Schencctftdy !•»
Cross Mohawk Hivcr ^i
Haveley's Tavern „ „g
Groat's Tavern - - - ; * ' "
Cross Chuctenunda Creek to _ . 4 33
Amsterilam ^f
Tripe's Hill- - - - ^ ^g
Caughnawaga - • 1 43
.Johnson's Creek * To
ConnoUy's Tavern " '
Palatine Lower Bridge ° ^
Palatine Upper Village * "i
Palatine Church - - - " " ■ • " - -.
Oppenheim, on East Canada Creek ■ ' I i.\
Little FalU Village 7 «
West Canada Creek ^ |^
Herkimer .'.'.'. 6 93
Schuyler
Cross Mohawk River to ... 8 101
Utica 4 105
Hartford '. " . 13 118
Vernon ^ jgS
Oneida Creek • -. ■ • ' " . " " * ,, i^j,
Canesaraga, on Canesaraga Creek - ■ 11 "*
Chitteningo River ■ • "^^ ^^
Manlius ^'1''"* « 14.0
JamesvUle, on Butternut Creek ■ - - 6 14»
Onondaga HoUow. on Onondaga Creek 4 153
l"'Su^ ■ : '. ■- ■ ■ ■ ■- - - 9 il*
Keateless, outlet of Skeneateless Lake 6 169
Auburn, outlet of Owasco Lake - - ■ ° "'
East Cayuga ,'•.■' % ia«
Cayuga Bndge, across Cayuga Lake - 1 l»^
Seneca Falls 4 193
Waterloo fi 199
Cteneva
«>tM.iswi«<0 jB.»(»*»Si
, i^p^>isi>iii<,-?i**A««*fcWs*«i*»'-*-*
80 BOUTl TO »AtU 01 IIUOAIA— TO BW*10.
M. M.
Crosi C»n*nd«igua outlet to i* 01 «
Cuimndaipia - - l %a
Bloom«icW Church fi ^^
Honeoye Creek "^ ,. ^^j
Lima _ y .^.^^
Avon ■ - • ' ^ 1 r,^ J,
t.enesee River _ 249
Caledonia
CroM Allen's Ore ;k to . 5 254
I'C Hoy - ■ 5 259
Black Creek 7 266
Batavia ■-•■"'■■■' 4 270
Tonncwanta Creek . . - - -
Murder Creek \0 iW
Cross ElUcott's Creek to
WilliamBviUe * " 19 306
Buffalo ' 2 308
Black Rock ' a -jifi
Tonnewanta Creek ' 6 322
Cayuga Creek - " _ „„-
.Faim o» Niaoaba '^ '*^'
Albakt to . . . „ 1 o
Junction of Erie and ChamplainCanaU »
lx.wer Aqueduct over the Mohawk ■ - 4 1^
WatHoixUap ^ J-
Fort*» Ferry , ,g
ViBcher'8 Ferry - • - - ' •' ' t i*
Upper Aqueduct over the Mohawk * " ^ gg
Schenectady „q
pUttekiU Aqueduct - ' -^^
Chuctenunda Aqueduct --,■•" *1 ^
Schoharie Creek and Guard-Lock ' ' * ^"
Voorhees's, LockNo.36 - - - * " * *?
Anthony's Nose and MitoheU'8 Cave - 6 61
Canaioharie , " ' " " i ta
CSwrd-Look, OtsquadB Creek - - - - ^ /«
Cby the Canal. J
nplain Canal* 8
Mohawk - - 4 12
3 15
2 17
2 19
; Mohawk - - 5 24
4 28
5 33
13 46
rd-Lock - • * *2
5 55
iheU'sCave • 6 61
6 67
reek . - - • 3 7'»
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
1.0
I.I
11.25
Jria iiM
•S IM ||||22
1.4 11.6
6"
Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580
(716) 872-4503
Vj
CIHM/ICMH
Microfiche
Series.
CIHM/ICMH
Collection de
microfiches.
Canadian Institute
for Historical Microreproductions / Institut canadien de microreproductions historiques
KocTK TO rnvrtAto.
M. M.
Nowadaga Creek 11 l\
Little Falls % ™
German FlaU " ' , * " t la.
Steel's Creek, Aqueduct and Feeder - 8 »o
Myers's Creek ^ ^
Long Level commences I uvi
Ferguson's Creek, Aqueduct - - - - « J"'
Clark's Creek, Aqueduct I um
TJtica .-----•'•""*
Sadaquada Aqueduct ? 119
Whitesborough o iic
Oriskany ^ "*
Mansion-House, Rome i^i
Wood Creek ' j ti^
Smith's Verona * ?^"
Oneida Creek c lii
Canastota i iao
New Boston I leS
Chitteningo Creek t ifift
Manlius Landing 2 i««
End of Long Level 1 ifiQ
Syracuse * J_,
Geddes ^ "J
Otisco Aqueduct « las
Canton « 100
Jordan ^ f°^
Weed's Basin ^ \aa
BucksvUle -^5^°
Montezuma ,; 01 «
Clyde "215
Lyons a 910
Newark ^ 230
Palmyra - ■ - - ^ tZ
Mud Creek, Aqueduct ,0 o«"
FuUam's Basin o -I
Hartwell's Basin - - - - - - ' 'i 5«
Great Embankment over Irondequot Creek i ^ao
pittsfo^- ■ - - - - ; ; ; : : I 2S
Rochester t or?
King's Basin " ' • " 6 ^7*
tt
.i i»'
8'^-
ts
XOVTS TO imAlO— BIVIATIOK.
M. M.
3 277
Webber's Basin 3 280
Spencer's Basin „ „„»
Bates ViUage ^ ^~
Brockport -■■■:::::: e 293
'Holley - 6 299
Smith's Basm o ino
Sandy Creek Embankment - - - • J J^
Newport - I 1 304
Gaines's Basin , „«-
Otter Creek Embankment « w
Clark's Brook * ^"^
ArchRoad-Way % 1.'^
Oak Orchard Aqueduct 5 317
ftfiddlepOrt , ngn
Boyalton Embankment 9 331
I^ockport ; - 33g
Sulphur Springs „ „,g
Pendleton «' T ' ' "
Entrance of Tonnewanta Creek
Leave Tonnewanta Creek q «b
BUck Rock Harbour 4 362
BnrrALO --•
An
being
merly
but a
to th(
brokt
The
princ
iar aa
DEVIATION.
By Cakahdaioca, Rochsstbb, and Liwistowh.
Cajtaitoaiota to jj
Mendon .--- ^ gg
Pittsford ^" g 3Q
RoCHBSTBa
Greece - ^j
Parma ~ ^g
Clarkson L «
Sandy Creek ^ g^
Gaines -- - »q
Oak Orchard ' ii aj,
Hartland '. ' '. U 95
Cambria «. j»n
Lkwisxows xj **«
BtTIATtOV.
ek
M.
3
3
3
4
6
6
3
1
1
1
2
3
2
5
5
9
5
2
M.
277
280
283
287
293
299
302
303
304
305
307
310
312
317
322
331
336
338
12 350
8 358
4 362
ON.
BH, Onrf LlWISTOWH.
.... 15
, . . . . 7 22
. . . - . 8 30
, , . . - 5 35
6 41
7 48
7 55
8 63
7 70
14 84
11 95
15 110
SCRIHSCTAOr.
Aldast to the Faih op Niaoaiia.
83
\FTBm leaving Albany, the first stage is sixteen miles to
Schetudady. It is one of the most dreary rides in the world,
beinir a deep sandy soil, covered with gloomv forests. For-
merly, the road was very bad, from the depth of the sand j
but a jrood turnpike is now formed, which does great honour
to the enterprise of the country. The ground is in general
broken and sandy, and in ite natural state extremely baiten.
The white pine, blended in places with the cedar, is the
principal timber of the district, and spreads on either hand
far as the eye can reach over these broad plains—
Undlque solers,
Arva coronantem nutrire Favencia pinum—
but on the margins of the streams, it is mixed with some
white oak, black oak, and white bu«h, and with a few trees
of red flowering maple. The water courses which cross the
road flow north-east towards tlie Mohawk, and have some
fine extensive farms upon their alluvial bottoms.
Before reaching Schenectady, from a hul the traveller lias
a full view of tlie adjacent country. The town itself, stand-
inff on the fertile meadows of the Mohawk, presents a nch
and lively picture, which is strongly contrasted with the
ban-en scene we have just passed.
In a geological point of view, according to Professor Eaton,
the whole of this district belongs to the transition and se-
condar>' foi-mations: tlie argilUte (or common slate) evidently
underlays the whole. The graywacke overlays the arpUite,
and conceals it, in most of the middle and western parts ot
the county. No well-characterized red sandstone (fireestone)
or breccia, was found in place. Fragments however of the
latter have been observed in the south part of the county, at-
tached to large blocks of graywacke slate. The graywacke
is often covered with shell Umestone, which last is frequently
overlayed by secondary sandstone, or rather, calcareous sand-
stone. Large blocks of primitive rock are frequently found
reposing on the soil, yet the above enumemted rocks are
aU that are found in place. These blocks were evidently
''■S
n
4
' »tl
84 ■CKIJIUCTABT— lir»IA» MAM^CBE.
wir u,hrh is here about one hundred and htty yaras wicie.
togirwhich the M..huwk spreads, norUe '*« "Jabvtonte
beTn backward in pursuing these advantages, but appear to
.tXnyfu SS te.To1 into the citizens, they determ.ned,
S iinSimtion and despair, to abandon the,r {.omes and^
tiif s;
otl't'iv
•■xcrl
" this
lieai't
Our (
nist 1
by M
ai Ihi
tlon,
iniriii
tlic :
affof
Tl
a po
and
the 1
towr
[Tore
I'ul i
slruc
S(
sani(
siiry
noui
a re:
took
in it
in tl
(Jon
csta
and
vidi
laisi
one
truii
groi
con
cd
con
('i)U
tl'V.
-England, or some other
inre shall not attempt t(»
d at the foot of tlie hills,
he south side of the Mo-
Ired and fifty yards wide,
than most of the towns
settlement of New-York,
;ee thousand inhabitants,
aensive and elegant; and
isure to it the benefits ot
li and prosperous country
3; nor have its inhabitants
ivantages, but appear to
and increasing trade,
old town, which owes its
country from the inroads
wn recalls many facts ot
February 1690, as we ai-e
abitants alUiough histor)_
ling party of French and
;fore daybglit in the mom-
beds by tlie explosion of
"their savage enemies, an
rhe mother and the babe,
er and sister shared the
Imost naked, tlwough frost
. tidings to Albany.
i one of the most tragical
that liave occmTed, witli
>ents, for upwards of two
ntier still presents us, from
1 of ferocious warfare ; but
Uy approaching, when the
I, and the red and the white
I brothers.
L Schenectady was known
! citizens? they determined,
bandon their homes and all
Bn remwn exposed to the
mber of Mohawk chieftains
(, immediately on learning'
SCHESECTADT — USIOIT COllEOE.
85
the sad event, hastened to console and animate them. They
otlt-rod tliein their iiid; thi'y incited them to honourable
exertion. " 1)0 not puck up and go away," they c-xclaimedi
" this will give comiigc to your diistardly enemy ! Take
lieart ; we are resolute, as to 'our parts, to continue the war.
Our chain is a strong cliain; it is a silver chain; it can neither
nist nor be broken!" The whole speech has been preserved
by Mr. Colden, in liis History of tlie Five Nations; and even
ai this distant period, it is impossible to read it witliout emo-
tion, without respecting its aff'ectionale synipiitiiy, and ad-
miring its magnanimous spirit, and witliout ranking it among
tlie most respectable models of eloquence wliicli liistory
affords. _/.,•■
The Mohawks however, then tlie most powerful tribe ot
a powerful nation, have now disappeared from ilie world ;
and all that yet remains to attest tlieir former existence, is
the name of tlie beautiful stream upon whicli is situated tlie
town of Schenectady. Its current, once stuiued with human
gore, now flows, gentle, pure and steady, tlirougli llie peaee-
iul settlements of the people whom they saved from de-
struction.
Sclienectady is the scat of justice for the county of the
same name, and as sucli contains .:.- ■■>'al buildings neces-
sary for courts of justice and prisons. It is also more ho-
nourably remarkable, as having within its limits Union < ;olleso,
a respectable litenirv institution, iiicorpor.iud in 1794, which
took its name from" tlie union of several religioiis societies
in its formation. In 1785, a small acudemy, the first building
in this city devoted to literary ])urj)Oscs, was erected by the
Consistory of the Keformed Dutcli Clmrch, which, after the
establishment of Union College, was presented to its trustees,
and used as a grammar-school. I,il>er;d donations from indi-
viduals, amounting to upwards oi' tliiity thousand dollars,
raised a suite of edifices in the heart of the city, the i)rincipal
one of which is now used as a court-houiie. In 18M, the
trustees disposed of these, and purciiuscd a site on the rising
grounds, a little east of the populous part of the city, and
commenced the erection of a vol) extensive set of well-adapt-
cd buildings. The situation is extremely well chosen, on a
conunanding eminence of gentle acclivity, embracing every
convenience, and an extensive view of the surrounding coun-
tiv. Two only of the college cd'tices are yet erected, each
H
If *
1 j
?!
i:M
i/ia
86
MIB CAWAt.
stucc -cd W. im.tut.on f ^'"''^f ^"''^- J,"tJt\,e whole set.
six hu,.drcd feet as.inden f"^>/,° ^S tWs institution
there a^c yet want.ng s,x "^^er bu.ld. .gs. i^^
s,.stains its high celebnty, and has no v m he d^« ^^
of tlus work between f^^^"*^ Jf^^^^ ^^'^^i^^y" ^ so much
interesting, and, ndeed tic l.^.sahc^ro,n^^^^ .^
more agreeable than tue "«^ "''^' , . eligible route,
be recommended to travellers •*«^^^^,^.,"'"?'^ bt f,,ur locks
The canal after leavn^ J- ^„" ' ^ ^f ^o' S along the
thii-ty-two feet, and pasbLs '"'•;,.■. the enic liters ot
south shore of the Mohawk, ^^^t '.^ l'° '\\;^J' Verf, felt dis-
mayed at the d.fhculti< s iiity "-'"'• i,„n(issible ; rocky
and abutments oi stone. A te, p^«su t ^„t^.,
/Wife is seen on th^^'*. |^^ '^ ;*"",\\;'^ „ia,. ..atural
U,e Celebrated gap «.* ;,'^e ^amc n.unc. U^as fe ^^^ ^^_
ravine, varying .n width fiom ^'^.\V" '^^''^,'^^f ^ere .t would
foiKling a re...arkab le pa suge o. ^- --^ -' „„,. ,, ■ ,
have been impossible «"i/" J" "; . r ,s one of the
scene of wild and romantic ^.'^^''^>' .^'';^™ ^i.e AVat
n.ost interesting Matures Clothe .1 ok ^P^^^^^^^^^^ ^.^ ^„,
thirty
risiiiR
the u
canal
as till
feet 1
feet I
fecdc
hund
city (
CToss
strec
Lc
W00(
lengi
tect.
entit
ed ii
in 01
insti
fron'
eaci:
heb
des(
pier
sup
grei
cei>
thai
star
mei
at t
I
ton
pa.4
not
pre
a v
an(
eoi
sar
■•^^^■^^^^"~" "f^ » i^(
TH
■ niDBr. OVLH TUT. MOHAWK.
ir
ries in height, of brick,
-. They stand in a hnc,
otnpkte the whole set,
dings. This institution
w in tliediff ''rent classes
ts. It has a library ol
jid a very excellent phi-
Hcsides the President,
;r, two tutors and a re-
the town. The section
and the Cohoes is very
from All)any is so !""<=''
he barrens, that it may
the most eligible route.
Vails, rises by four locfcn
out two milts along the
is point, the engineers ot
ing as tlicy were, felt dis-
j encounter. To continue
r, was impossible ; rocky
c whole length, and after
able pass could be disco-
vossing the Moh.awk was
is selected for the eastern
liere carried over the Mo-
duct, eleven hundred and
jrted by twenty-six piera,
ssing the river, Wat Hoix
about two miles we enter
uc. 11 is a singular natural
jcii to eighty ieet, and at-
the canal, where it would
have formed one. It's*
Xy, and fomis one of the
A-liole passage. Tiie AVat
a in tlie Mohawk, are not
i,ere called by the Indians,
Two miles tWther, the old
crosses the canal. At the
,, the canal passes through
Ic line: it is not less Ihiiii
tliirtv-two feel, and the soil is a transition argiltitc. After
r s5 by two locks of seven feet each, four miles bring us to
the upper aqueduct across the Mohawk, where the hne of
c la raga^ changed to the southern bank : .t is not so long
as the lower one, bL-ing but seven hundred and forty-eight
feet in cngth , it is supported by sixteen piers, twenty-Ave
feet Lbove the water. Tiiere is here also a guard-lock and
feeder of half a mile from the river, and a high i,ank of one
hundred and thirty feet. In four miles more, wc reach the
c Jof SchenecJly, thrmigh which the canal vasses and
CTosaes diagonally In its course not less than eight of the
'Teaving Schenectady, we cross the Mohawk on a fine
wooden bridge of nine hundred and ninety-seven feet in
kngth bi^U by Theodore Burr, a celebrated bnd^e arclu-
tect ItsformaUon, the principles of which are said to be
e'Srely new.^ on (he following plan : four piers were erec -
cd in tL rWer, on Uie top of wTiich the roadway passes, but
fn onler toTu tain this fntermediately between the piers
iMtead of adopting the usual course of throwing an arch
S one to thi oth^er, the a«=hitect has «^i«ed on the U.p^of
each a hiirh frame-work 5 between every two of these tr.imes
he hi^ Si an inverted arch, the lowest point of which
Sescrnrfo the roadway, at the middle P""Jt between the
piers. From this inverted arch the platfonn f the road .3
supported by braces hanging perpendicular to it. The
e eatchsadvantage of such a briAge will be instantly per-
!eived-its weakness at the centre of the arch , and indeed
th^ fault hL occurred to a great degree m this very in-
stance for it has become necessary to carry up an inter-
rSate piei across the whole river, to support the bridge
Teach point where the arch descends to the platform.
ImmeSely after crossing the Mohawk, the ro,«l to Balls-
ton suSc3 to the righ^ while the great western road
SLes along the rich meadows or f^v.-, which bound the
Sern sifeof the river. These ,.•. it has with great
probability been conjectured, were '.!,... the bottom o
a v^t lake ; and the rich aUuvion of Uk. sod forms a broad
Ldtrtt valley, tluough the midst of wh,f .^^e M^^^^^^^^^
courses along, while its edges are bounded y the sttnde
sand-hUls that are seen both on the north and south.
I
i
^w^i..
gg IMSTKHnAJI— TBirv's DUt.
mil's n"or.- I.rlnfj us to «rr«.7'... l-hc country over winch u c
pu s ".■.,. .-H l.rok.-n, ami Uss f.Ttil. than thut below. On
fhis ,hore of the Mohuwk, imlcd. the banks often vm- ah-
runt V • ml p.vcipitouslv ; but on the south, th.y slope mou-
XI f o n tlR. stream/and present flourishinK farms. thronRh
wh ch the J -at western canal winds alonp, scatterinj? new
riches at every point, and rewar.lin^ the enterprise that et-
rctecl it. bj'continued proofs of the T.enefits and advantages
! ha bestlwe,! On \he hills, the pine tree st.ll re.Rns
Oiouirh the birch and oak are sotnetnnes seen ris.nff tr) con■
S t Us s way ; he chesnut, the walnut, the lucko.-y and tub p
tree spread their more cheerful sha.le over the valleys Phe
rveTs about two hun.lre.l and fil\y yards w.de. and hlled
wUh iands, which follow each other in rapul succession
Sand and rounded pel)bles form the superstratum, but
Sstose limestone appears projecting fmm the banks ma
horizontal position, marking a secondar>' ''eg'" •
A country of similar features contmues lor lour miles lar
ther, to th7village of Amsterdam, though the horizontal or
slatv limestone begins more generally to prevail.
Imxierdam is a' romantic village ^'"^"'"'"S.i" ,,«2
houses and placed on the western shore of the ( luctenwidn
creek 'a s'erm which rises in Saratoga countv. ""^^ ;;-'-';;
netuouslv over a ridge of hmestone. one hundred and twenty
Etb eight into tl^'-- >»o»"^^^l^' "J"'"" """^^ }','•!' ^Tul
U in ts<^f an object of great beauty, but, in add. ion to its
t^bctn appearance, it attbnls in reality a site ot peculiar
evcellcnce for the erection of mills. There are now in
nm'nti n wTthinthe distance of a hundred rods, a scythe
nluimfrctorv. a clothier's works, and an excellent grist-mill
'"iorS's from Amrterdam, we arrive at Tripe's /J//.
oneTf the most singulav and difficult passes on the Mohawk.
The liU rises abrupth,, is higli, sandy, and extremely pamh.l
in the ascent. The're'i: no niode to avoid this incofivenience
„ th?. lv.nk of the river is an elevated ledge of rock, on the
?,o.tl ide The tabVe-land is a sandy plain', and the descent
ftom above is but little less than the ascent from below
From the highest part of the hill, the mouth and vallev ot
fhe Sc/lA«n«^a.-e in full view. The bottom o. the MohusNk
>~h(
SiIk
from
ferti:
theij
whc
Fi
mtut
and
ape
the
trib(
One
eelt
Th«
giv.
rofi
or i
the
iiv(
J
low
one
coil
fict
lua
tab
the
rin
pni
to I
of
bi-
hn{
by
thi
910
mil
vis
sio
Ml
by
i
■^
a DILI.-
weti/'n Tiwern, unci cluli*
country over wliicli wc
Ic than tliat below. On
he banks often rinc al)-
- south, they slope move
ourish'uiK farms, throup,!)
(Is ttlonp, scattcrini? new
Iff tile enteri)risc that ct-
bcncfits and atlvantaRcs
,c pine tree still reipns,
rtiines seen rising to con-
ut, the hirkoi-y and tulip
(le over the valleys. Tiie
;\y yards wide, and filled
Lher in rajiid succession.
the superstratum, hut
;ting from the banks in a
ndan' region,
ntinues for four miles far-
thouj^ii the horizontal or
illv to prevail.
\; containing about fifty
shore of the Chuclennndii
nga county, and rushes im-
, one luni'dred and twenty
The caUuact thus formed
uty; but, in addition to its
reality a site of peculiar
niUs. 'There are now in
a hundred rods, a scythe
and an excellent grist-mill
we arrive at Tripe\i FllH,
;ult passes on the Mohawk,
ndv, and extremely painful
o avoid this incwivcnience,
,ated ledge of rock, on the
mdy plain, and the descent
m the a.scent from below,
ill, the mouth and valley ot
I'he bottom of the Mohuw k
fA%Ar(iHV»Af.A— JOMHSTOW.t. W
I. here extenbivc, bnt extremely flat (m the south side ; the
Schoharie is seen meandering over thi- plain, in its course
from the hills to the river. The bottoms anpear extremely
fertile, but are subject to ocr^isional iniindtttion, and Ironi
their undeviating level, the crops must suffer great injury
when these accidents occur. ., ^ ,
Five mile* from Tripe's Hill is the village of Caughnawuna,
situated near the junction of the CayaduUa with tiie Mohawk,
and containing about forty houses, a Dutch Reformed church,
a po»tM>ffice and school-house. It was the principal town o
the Mohawk Indians, one of the most warlike aii.l powerful
tribes of the aborigines. Uniting with the Omidas, the
Onondagas, Uie Cayugas and the Senecas, they h.rimul the
.-.•kbratcd confederacy of the Irnqmts, or Fim Nations.
The name signifies 'a coffin,' and it is said to have been
given to the place from a large black stone, shaped ike a
coffin, and still seen, at low water, in the bed of the Mohawk;
or it m.iy be, from the perils to which the l.giit barcpies of
the Indians were here exposed, in their passage down the
river * • r »
About four miles to the north of Caughnawaga is Mm-
town, the capital of Montgomery county. It contains about
one thousand inhabitants, is well laid out, and, besides the
county buildings, has several churches and other public ecU-
fices. The soil of the county is generally a stift argillaceous
loam, or brownish grit mould, variously combined with vege-
table remains, and in some parts runmng into black muck ;
there are tracts also of sandy alluvion.
About three quarters of a mile from Johnstown, and beau-
* " Of thi« name, as of many others of Imliaii oriprin, it may tie hire
rimarklii; hat U^i- orthography, »l.ich «c.-n., to come the i.iuie.t to the
i,3nich.t oil, according tu the ear or fancyof one person, may not do,,.
foTi a of an" heT 1 h«e i» no «iich thing as a rule apulicab e to ca.e,
of lJ."s kind only to simplify the word, and modern. jeU. solar as may
he eomonim with a due preservation of . t^ niolog) . I here are fe» , per-
haprindiarsounds or words, which difl'erent jktwii. woiild represent
b7the laiic Enclish i. turs. The dilHcuity is »iio farther nicna.ed by
the sviumynm of rule dialects. In that of the .Mohawks, the same expres-
JKS for coffin, death, d«truction, ^c, and they have trad. .on. of
mMivliv« being lost on this rock, now not .n the mam channel, an.l only
"i^rje at low wSter. In like ...anner, they use one a..d the sai.ie exp.-e.-
r^onf«?v.mth. morning, spring, east, &c. to my ear. hear.ng a., old
S..wk V^ak' cLhnawVvhi. exp,r.^on «e.m .0^^
by these letters than by adding ug.'-SpaffiirU » (.uxetteer, iin.
■I f
i
gf) rilF. Kt.lPH?..
tifullv siu.uh .1 ni> a r.nr vmnK ^rouivl, rommandinp; a clmim
i viw of tlu- surro.u,,r.nK .:ou..trv. is I he //«// erect.-, l.y
Sir W'.Hiam .l..lm.t..n in 1773, un.f .. Nvlu.h h.; rcHi.U.l o
Ue Umo on>i.s.katl.. lU was th.. pmpnctor .>t he su •
rmuu "k district, and a nmn of Rr.at energy and enUr,, •. < .
lZ S-rou»c, the gaol, and the Kpisc..,.alchurch n, whuh
hilbones St 1 repose, were b.iilt hy him. hy means of un an-
rssmc."revU.d on the district to furni.h a certain qiiantUy (.
s^no a tax paid without difficulty. It wan here that rolonel
Wdlet. on the 25th October. 1781. with four hundred und.s-
dplined mimia and sixty In.lian^. defeated a body of British
and Indians amountinR to six hundred mea
To the lortluwest of CaughnawaRa. a h.gh "dge or h .
e^U cd the Klip.ie, extends across the countiy >" « ""V"'-
weHtcrly direct^...", as f.ir as the M..huwk. Its nan« .s a
mtch word, signifying a rock, or rocky ledge , and . .s
fSdot-silicious and calcareous san. stone, w, h bare s,d .
Xntimes singidarly precipito.is. As it approaches the rvei ,
H slope" down to it. fmm an elevation of probably hvc hun-
W 1 Wt and is in its shape no ba.l imitation of a gigantic
tt Vom Sch i^ 1^ ec eived its nam., oi Mthmy'. Nose.
ThTs'mZtain . nee rosse.1 the present channel of the river
Jt' isplacX in the bed of whicl, may He feed the^ bar.
mrk runuinir oblquely from shore to shore. It is merely
hfe'astern mnt ofl loftv rami.art of hills and mountains, or
an clevaTed plain from which hills and mo.intains rise, sprea.l-
W wertwarh beyond the Little Kails, and extending from
K county, a spur of the CatskiU mountains, across a
SorSome.7 and Herkimer counties, and farnortli-
iTvd At h•^s spot may be seen indubitable ^■y"l«nce of th..
S P<.wer of water, and that the stream which now flows
ZSyhLZ some former titr,e burst through this immense
«Av ai-rier. and worn it down to what it now appears. M
iS/XCjuHt below, there is an alluvia plain of one mile
in itShTand half a mile wide, composed at the upper eiul
of c;;;" ""',^»
more at the viUage of Opptuhd,n, at the mouth ot hast C a-
, ada creek. The appearaiic.' of the countiy does not greatly
vaS, tite valley or flat land now spreads out on the m.rtherij
sh^r;. but precipitous clifls are fre<,uentlv seen. The soil
is everywhere fertile , that along the river .,:.nk, a ncl alK^-
vion— that of the adjacent uplands, an argillaceous loam,
rather heaw, but vei^ productive. Quartz, calcareous spar.
wuJ a daik 'brown hornstoue, are found , and about Palatine.
1
93
orrr.siisiM— iiTTLB falls.
anthracite, and quartz crystals containing it, have been olv
presents, lik-^ them, fi-om its rapid descent, many excellent
situations for the establishment of mills. , ... ^^■
Vmm Onnenhcim, seven miles brmg us to Uie vuiagc m
/i/fr^J/r The vale of the Mohawk again deserts us. and
we «asso;er high hills, while the southern shore slopes
Sd^J^^ylway. chequered with farms and forests, amid
-'SL^n^^LS^nSi-^^PJ-^ntai^^
upwards of a hundred houses, stores, s'^P". &c^. ^^id a
cC and school-house. It t:'??,;*^ "'e'ller C yet bS
S S;; with rboTder cataract of the Cohoes, but not ^ss
fnteresting, from their scenery, and natural Pl'^""'^'^"^;^,^^
cannot introduce them to tlic traveller in bettei .language
than that of Mr. Clinton, a gentleman whose capacious mmd
Jm li^ces at once the depths of moral and political science,
TpaSc -bur in the^ui.uit of every thing which caii
ucld to the domestic interests ol his «=»«n7' , t"; J/J"°*
ledge of the wonderful works of nature, umted with a strong
P^:^Kme^i'::rrMoliawkriver,';,ays,«..C^^
in his introductory discourse. " "VC™"<:<=^«» ^'^J ^'l^y'^a
rounding country, exhibit a very interesting aspect. As you
InpS the falls. U.e river becomes narrow and deep, and
%S pxs thi-ough'immense rocks, principally of S^^^'"^-
tewne^d wiU. limestone. In various places, you obsei-ve
PC excavations in the rocks made by the ^'tation °
Lbbles in tlie fissures, and in some places the nv" 's "ot
more thaii twenty y aids wide. As you approach the western
ining it, have been ob-
5 little worthy of remark,
efore the revolution, by
wn in their native land ;
iinding country, expMcd
revolutionary war. Eaut
ed, is the boundary be-
jounties. It rises in the
e tablelands, from which
e Hudson also flow, and
descent, many excellent
nills.
•ring tis to the vdlagc ot
iwk again deserts us, and
le southern shore slopes
farms and forests, amid
JUS. . .
urishing place, contaimng
tores, shops, &c., and a
■es its name from one ot
the traveller has yet be-
lawk, called little, in com-
■ the Cohoes, but not less
I natural phenomena. We
veller in better language
nan whose capacious mmd
lond and pohtical science,
of every thing which can
Ills country, and a know-
lature, united with a strong
k k river," says Mr. Clinton,
n connection with the sur-
lutcreoting aspect. As you
mes narrow and deep, and
, principally of granite, in-
anous places, you observe
s, made by the agiuaion ot
>ine places the river is not
3 you approach the western
IITTI.E fAltS.
91
cxlremitv oftlic liills, you find them alxMU half a mile distiuit
iVom summit to summit, and at least thire hundred fi-tt high.
The rooks arc romposcd of granite, and many ot them are
tliiitv or forty fi'et tliick : and the wliole mountain extends
at h'iist lialf a mile from cast to west. You see tlicm piled
nil each olli< r like Ossa on I'elion, and in other places, huge
tiairments s( ultcied about, indicating a violent mixture ot
t be waters thiougli this place, as if they had been formerly
(lammed up, and had formed a passage; and in all directions
vou behold great rocks, exhibiting rotundities, points anrt
cavities, as if worn by the violence of tlie waves, or hurled
from their ancient positions. „ . ,. , i.
" The general anpearance of the Little Falls indica.tes the
former existence ofa great lake above, connected with the
Oneida lake ; and as tlie waters here forced a passage and
receded, the flats above were formed, and composed several
thousand acres of the richest land. Home being the highest
point on the lake, the passage of the waters on the east side
loft it bare ; the Oneida lake gradually receded on the west
Hide, and formed the gieat marsh or swamp now surrounding
the waters of Wood creek. Tiie physiognomy ot the coun-
try, from the commencement of Wood creek to its termina-
tion in the Oneida lake, confirms this hypothesis. The west-
erly and north-westerly winds continually drive the sand ot
the lake towards the creek, and you can distinctly perceive
tlie alluvion increasing eastwardly by the accumulation ot
sand, and the formation of new ground. Near the lake you
ob'. vc sand without trees, then to the east a few scattering
trees; and as you proceed in that direction, the woods thick-
en The whole countrv. from the commencement to the
termination of Wood creek, looks like made gi-ound. In
diffffing the cana'. in Wood creek, pine trees were toiiml
twelve feet deep. An old boatman, several ) ears ago, said
that he had been fiftv vears in that occuiiation, and that tlie
Oneida lake had receded half a mile within his memory.
William Colbreath, one of the first settlers at Uome, m dig-
.riiiK a well, found a lai-ge tree at the depth ot twelve teet.
This great lake, breaking down in the first place the barriers
which opposed the iirogress of its w.^tcrs to the cast, and
then gi-adually receding to the west, is a subject well Ue-
serving of minute investigation."
94
IITTIB FALLS.
^ithetX. of fifty feet, would^ise the^wate^,«- aU ^e
countiy. as.f^rasthe 0"e.d* ^^^^ T»^4^"^„^^ ^^ either
^e! 'X^^'TJTr £Xe Vty feet arc distinctly
"'Se Little Falls present a ctirious geological fact, which
Thich coWo»e tl'-Veat prim-^^ve ^^gX^^ST^^f f^w
«»-♦ nftv,*. staff- • a simUar spur crosses the Monawit ociu».
recent variey?^and often contains but little felspar or m.ca.
r.mp rock these blocks or boulders almost hide tne tace oi
IrfieldTbut ^uy arc concealed by the deep aUuvon, m
*'B.r»S miials arc found in these gneiss rocks^ Iron
pvfites. petSx. and scales of plumbago, were observed
h'y Mr. E:*ton, in his accui-atc siuvej'.
a se^
thirt;
dasli
by >'
and
high
no ii
O
the
oftei
tot!
thes
alon
on i
herl;
beni
mor
thoi
■re once ttic eastern bai -
■ the levels which have
d. It has been ascertain-
h side, is seven hundred
:he tide, and that a dam
e the water over all the
That such a dam did
ks which rise on either
e fifty feet are distinctly
LIS geological fact, which
The country, all the way
n formation? but at this
down from the mountains
region in the north-west
)s8es the Mohawk below,
s only deviations from the
we have just mentioned,
of gneiss rock, whose lay-
;al, being rarely much ni-
F-aveland calls "the more
i but little felspar or mica,
pure quartzose sandstone,
into silicious limestone.
I while passing the Noses
ind orange tinge. This is
ron pyrites on the exposed
iulphate of iron. A fresh
)t the natural colour of the
insist of large square and
neat extent. Slaty layers
tr, which have the appew;-
'se blocks are broken ott,
jining countrj-. Near Pala-
re.id over the metalliferous
ci-s almost hide the face of
jd by the deep alluvion, in
n these gneiss rocks. Iron
plumbago, were observed
vej-.
ITTTIE TAllS—ERIE CANAt. V>
Before leaving the Little Falls, we must turn our attention,
for a moment, to the scenery of tlie spot, the beauties ot
nature, and the beauties of art. The native scenery is wild
and striking: the river, pent in by rugged and huitastic
rocks, seems to have formed for itself a trench tiirough tlicni.
Huge and misshapen fragments of gi-anite are heaped upon
each other, overgrown and interspersed with ma|)le, elm,
hemlock and pine; the water foams, and roars over amid the
interstices, while above them it flows silently and placidly
along; still beyond, and stretching to the west, are seen the.
German Flats, rich in forest, in farms, and in every varied
scene of fertile culture. , „,. - •
Of late years, art has added her attractions. The F' course,
since we left it at the Little Falls, has contmued to v^ma
Xng Uie southern maigln of the Mohawk. In about nme
S from that place, it rises by five locks iorty-one teet, a
soon after passes two creeks, Fulmer-s and Steel s, ouJt^M
amieducts. It then ascends in two miles twentv-tour teet
moie and at the viUage of Frankford the Long Level com-
Tnces This noble stretch of canal is seventy miles in
Sh extatding westward, through Utica, Whites ow,,
Rome &c nearly to Syracuse. About two miles before it
S UtU U I car^d across Clark's creek, on an aque-
duct of four arches.
• Vic*s of Society in America, p. 17«-
In
kvitli
to en
detec
tic lo
cham
canal
and i
large
into 1
tills t
gates
and
they
atth
\V
boat,
gate,
from
it. 1
asce:
tentl
the
fron
grad
Si
boat
feet
of t1
i)l)ta
r.lu('
«th<
disp
the
arra
wit!
"^^^^e ^^^'Xect^^n of
deen to ncrmit an examinatum ol it. trom tne ^i^""" "
St^tnrn it beine almost horizontal, or a very gradually
chiefly "P°^°^«7^,J'^'°fi^,;ifbeU of graywacke will ave-
i'ofa ;£rt distancf a^x-und Utica. the same appearance ot
• Gfologiual Smvey. p. «'.
f'.trtil
it ftv
soon
bch(
fore!
distt
the
hert
thei
we 1
setti
oft
F
Hm
tun
abl(
sev'
a s(
nic!
mai
are
fuc
ma
ab(
inj
bai
in
ei^
mi
on
mi
of
fo:
sh
d<
th
«e
re
Is
(?Kisi9^sass»S'J««'
lEOlOOT.
scly f gen tk u,-
XdaUons and improving farms. A tew miles to the letl. is
Hm^UUM Colleee. a flourishing literary institution, placed on
a . obKn iS. from whicl? it looks down on the villages
and farms spread over the valleys below, t is a budding of
Xnefiftv feet by ninety-six, four stories high, each divided
uoeigffsmtaie rooms. twohalls,andsixteenlodging.room^^
ite corne?.stone was laid ^y Buvon St.uben one of the
noble and generous foreigners who embarked life and fortune
n the caitfe of our youthful freedom, and whom the succes-
^U go'^e^lions that shall roceive the ^^fvantages o educa-
ton in this institution, will continue to honour through dis-
tant aires Iron ore abounds in this district, and is exten-
sWelv worked into iron. Strata of silicious and calcareous
s ones ar° found, and easily quanied, and Mr. Silhman men-
S sulphuret of lead and zinc, among the minerals of the
•"■&erf^»er is V^on, a village confining about o^
hundred houses, two churches, a post^fficc, and several
ZSlring establishments, and presentmgtheappea^^^^
of a busy, thriving town. Among the minerals contained in
SecSet of the Albany Institute, are specimens of lenticu-
lai- argillaceous oxyde of iron, obtained at ♦h^ place.
F /e miles beyond Vernon, we reach Oneida Creek, tha
bouncUiry between the county of the same name and Madi-
son The geological features of the former, through which
T'road h J pas^d ever since we left Utica, will be int^^^^ "
■Z to Uie scientific traveller, and the researches of .he intd-
Sent Professor Eaton enable us accurately todescr.be them,
/dl the hills of this district, inch.ding that on which Hamdton
Hollegc stands, a.* made up chiefly of ferriferous sand-rock,
andihe valuable iron mines in Westmoreland, Pans, &a arc
mostly embraced in it. In some of the nunes, the u:on ore
uUcri
irrcg
placi
who!
Allt
liculi
Mr. 1
land,
and
ore
the :
able
issue
of tt
salift
slate
west
gas
ties.
froiti
cipa
ovei
at tl
mini
whi(
fron
com
due
oft!
cole
due
has
pre!
simi
Thi
by I
but
the
pro
soft
fere
>^«a^^g^ssfe^:
a5Bt>«w>E«««*"i''s*ck here ; though the ferriferous strata
overlay it in the hilU. Tlie gas issues through gravelly soil
at the foot of a iiill, at the rate of about one gallon in a
minute It is precisely the same carburetted hydrogen gas,
which is pnxluccd in most coal mines. To save the men
from the explosions produced by igniting this gas when
combined witli atmospheric air, Davy's safety-lamp was intro-
duced. It burns with a flame which is not so white as that
of the artificial coal gas ; neither does it partake of that blue
colour, which is exhibited in burning tlie light carburet pro-
duced by decaying vegetables. The productaon of this gas
has ffcnerally been considered as a stioiig indication ot the
presence of coal. Dr. Hays, of Cananda.gua, analyzed a
similar gas, similarly situated, six miles from that viUage.
This iTM may be produced by the decomposition of water
by coal, at a great distance from the place where it issues ;
but it would follow a natural cleavage between two layers ot
the rock from which it issues. By disintegration, this rock
produces a gravelly and sandy soil. When mixed witii the
soft aluminous graywacke slate beneath it, or the soft fem.
ferous slate above it, a productive soil is made.
\H'
IM
nilLIDA mKKK— •«>•'•'*»•''■
J.idirinK from tlio »in»a of th.- rxsiern c-^/'.'f ")• '''^
eleven Ivu.iiv.l ' *%' *!;t„,l,iM,,,n .heiv IcroiioUH u.ue,-
tors. Nvl.o '^""■l'';;';;;' , " ni "m int.. Uu- hoavts of their
own rac.-, ';.'"' ;"^*'"i;{. J',- ^.J; "several of ll.cn, h»v,. be
more pniCti»o,l =''"' ™' ''' ' ..in^nnt mocl.inics, placo,!
un,onK tl... ''^ J ^^^^'^ .'th, In.han won,.,, an; bec.m.ing
V:^^::. ^a ;,;;nnr ;i.uU. the instnu-tion of U.e bencvole..
^'="itM:^t'-.sS-:£iunhcv. on the fY--«:
«nd rapidity ""* *f"'" Xt clothes the forests, and the
•kv.-
Kk'.l
the I
oak-
!•
hge
j,op
Yat.
chii
wall
voh
rxti
hen
«■>!'
S
con
son
run
Hoi
.1
:uu
harm-
iinjf their I'croeioUB amcs-
^hhonvinK nations of their
ror into the hearts of their
Scvenil of them have he-
Jlerent ineclianics, placed
rli as blacksmiths, wh<;el.
(hall wonun are bertmiing
i^triu'lion of llie bencvolenf
I farther, on the Cuiiaiiirngii
k itsimme, but it has lately
ntains abim* forty lionse-f
road passes, is rich in mme-
i of (fyi)suiii are foumi in it,
, what has proved of mva-
receiit enterprises, tli' hy-
rhe soil is warm and fertiU ,
yth of grain ; and its surface
Xions, crowned with forestb,
As the traveller passes over
on of the year, he is struck
I, throughout all thm region,
jursting forth witli a richness
; southern climates,— in the
clothes the forests, and the
ns the tields with boundless
the pure aaure of a cloudless
nllTTlllXtO — «t ( »MfS — JAMIHTIILC.
105
.,l{v,_;,n,l III :,iinimii, the ncmnn at wliu '' perhaps he is most
l,k--»'"''
JM OSOSDAfiA CASTLE-THK IllO''*^tended from the Che-
rrak^'aS^rrrnSh^^ and eas^^^^^^
Naiv
tinbc
the
over
T
pris(
ovei
grea
tern
or ri
tine
Cha
vani
bou
and
The
cdl
con
Am
Uni
tiori
mil(
an !
Iak(
and
sun
wat
abo
Thi
froi
due
and
Th
exj
tO!
ovt
the
In
be
wa
De
iBoatois.
ch, in four miles, Oiwn-
om it, and looking in a
)f the Oneida Lake may
' the forests and between
in this little town, which
of which the inhabitants
miles to the south, there
lotice of a traveller, that
f a remnant of an Indian
mfortimately, yet with a
ire, to the soil of its fore-
id every disadvantage,
times, inhabited by the
tion ! and as the traveller
; existence of this once
J a few moments, with a
md its present extinction,
rendered the task easy to
. to do, than to follow him
ent investigrations. .
the United States, that is,
xico, and from the Ocean
to have been inhabited by
ho formed themselves into
hese, the Powliatans, the
)ctawp, and other nations,
est of the Potomac; while
lat liver and the Ohio, was
es, those of the Lenni-Len-
: Europeans, the Delawares,
-fire on the banks of that
ingoes, as tliey styled thein-
French as the Iroquois, and
IS. It is cUfficult to fix the
,ns, varying as they forever
f bordering tribes, or the
confederacy to another. It
Delaware nation was com-
ho extended from the Che-
i and eastward, between the
lands and the Hudson, on
n the other ; embvacmg Uie
THE IROHVOIS- lot
Nairticokes, and otlier nations of Maryland, the Delaware
tiibe, properly so called, of Pennsylvania and Jei-sey, and
the Mohegans, with all their subsidiary tribes, who spread
over New-England.
The Iroquois were a race of much more valour and enter-
prise than their neiglibours, and extended their conquests
over their country, and even carried their arms beyond the
great northern lakes ; they seem indeed to have been the
terrx domiiumtis alumni of former ages, and to have subdued
or rendered tributary the most powerful Indians of the con-
tinent. Their territory appears to have extended from Lake
Champlain and the Hudson, across New-York and Pennsyl-
vania, and the western states, as far as the Mississippi,—
bounded to the north by the great Lakes, and on the south
and east by tlie Alleghany mountains and the river Ohio.
The dwelling lands of this confederacy were admirably adapt-
ed for convenience, for subsistence, and for conquest. Thev
comprised the greatest body of the most fertile land m North
America; and they are the most elevated grounds m the
United States, from whence the v/atere flow in every direc-
tion. Five great inland seas reach upwiu-ds of two thousand
miles through a considerable part of this territory, and afford
an almost unintenupted navigation to tliat extent. By these
lakes and rivers, the confederates were enalilcd, at all tmies,
and in all directions, to carry war and dcsti-uction among the
surrounding and the most distant nations. The numerous
waters were stored witii fish of various kinds, and the forests
abounded with an incredible number and vaiiety of game.
The situation of tlie inhabitants was rendered veiy eligible,
from these sources of subsistence, connected witli a pro-
ductive soil; for they had passed over the pastoral state,
and followed agriculture, as well as fishing and hunting.
The selection of this country for a habitation, was the wisest
expedient that could have been adopted by a military nation,
to satiate their thirst for glory, and to extend their conquests
over tlie continent ; and if they prefencd the arts of peace,
there was none better calculated for this important purpose.
In a few days, their forces could be s<-i:n, their power could
be felt, at the mouth of the Ohio ii the Missouri, on the
waters of the Hudson or the St. Lawrence, or in the bays of
Delaware and Chesapeake.
i I
THK inodvois.
The co^ccvate. h.a i^-^^^tSrir Sii:':;
tncnt ol- u] '^S"';'-* " '"•^'„ M-'t b. > heir nuti,..>s, and the.r
*'-{.'ricv''bu X5 t o?J;!vl„ccd b.,ond the first
couicdcrac) . bin ^'''-\ ,' . ...^..^, destitute of an executive
.tage ^.^';^^^^^J:g:^ii:L>^ou of thei.- councils
and jiKiiCKuy, to execute ui „ j advisory, and
and then K''ve™me"t ^"^ ^''^'^J"'^^ ■' .,, ^hlch wi ^id
^vlthout « -^^.^-'^^P, ■J'='i;.^;erariuu.n'^thut attached to dis-
to U»cu: chiefs, f' \,^',';^ »'.'-" -^^^s „f their legislatures, for a
?^S ^'£:foi"a.'^:^ch validity as .t^.ey had been
enforced by an executive anin. nations— tlje Mo-
Senecas. 1" 17U, the > "^'^''"^ ' , ,. ^j ^ deep and
«ted on or n*=^. f'^^^^'^s^sd the confluence of the Scho-
Thc position o the hist s a-s it i u. ^_^j^^^
harie creek and Mohawk r.vir, and "ic ouinr. »
IrondequotUay. 'f^'* "^V^^^^^^^ and each village was
'''T:ur:T^i^^^^^--^ -^^ ^hiJ national a^en.bly.
rS cS^2 of a.c great questions of ^ar and peace,
an(
fan
rat
sa)
tio
lor
cv
ill!
att
ne
ra(
Sc
Al
Fi
TBS IBOarOIA.
109
. fav Ijcyonil llic fivsl i-U-
nibiiuitiou into famiVus ;
thtir nations, and their
vanccd beyond the first
cstilute of an executive
(linatu)n of their councils;
lie ineiely advisory, aiid
• respect whlcli was paid
ium that attached to dis-
of their legislatures, for a
lidity as .! tliey had been
ito five nations — Cic »lo-
[.b, tlie Cayugas, and the
s, who lived in the back
had foraicd a deep and
> the w lutes, were diiveii
jpted l>y the Iroquois as a
iween the Oniidas and the
the fornu r.
and one small village, situ-
of the river of that name.
|,u confluence of the Scho-
iiul the olliers were farther
heir propintiuity to the set-
ir niarljal renown, and mih-
ciiueiitlx given their name
1 is often denominated tlic
Uivs.
pal seat on the soutli ot the
•M- tlie Onondaga, und the
the principal village of the
\ cr, about twenty miles from
lis divided into Uuee tribes,
Wolf; and each village was
ccrns were managed by its
r relations, general interests,
icted and superintended by
lally in Onondaga, tlie central
of each republic; and eighty
ned at this national assembly.
, questions of war and peace,
of the affairs of the tributary nations, and their negotiation,
with the ITench and Englisl. colon es. All their proceed-
ings were conducted witli great deUberation, and were dia-
Ungu'shed for order, deconim and solemmty. In eloquence,
in diimity, and in all the characteristics of profound pohcy.
ihey W«^«i »n assembly of feudal barons, and were per-
hap^s not far inferior to the great Amphyctionic Councd of
The conquests of the Iroquois, previously to the discovcty
of America! are only known to us through the imperfect
cLSof tradition i but it is well authentcated^ that since
that memorable era, they exterminated the nation of the
Eries or Erigas, on the south side of Lake Ene, which has
given name to that lake. They nearly extupated ge An-
dastez, and the Chouanons , they conquered the Hurons.
n drove them and their allies, the Ottawas, among the
Sioux, on the head waters of the Mississippi, where they
sS^ted themselves into bands, and proclaimed, wherever
?lieywent, the teiTor of the Iroquois. They also subdued
^Illinois. UieMiamies. the Algonquins. the Delaware^ the
Shawanese, and several tribes of the Abenaquis. After Uie
Iroquois had defeated the Huroi.s, in a dreadful battle fought
near Quebec, the Neperceneans, who lived upon tlie St.
iTwrence, fled to Hudson's Bay to avoid their fury. In 1649,
they destiiyed two Huron villages, and dispersed the nabon,
and afterwards, they destroyed anotlier v. luge of six hundred
femilies: two villages presented themselves to tlie confede-
raS and lived with tLw. " The dread of the Iroquois."
ays the historian,' " had such an effect upon all other n*.
tions. that the borders of the river Ontaouis, which were
ong thickly peopled, became almost deserted, without ite
eve? being known what became of the Skater pw* of the
Xbitante." The Illinois fled to the westward, after being
attTked by the confederates, and did not return until a ge-
S pe»^e i and were permitted, in 1760. by the confeSe-
rates, to setUe in the countiy between tlie Wabash and the
Scioto rivers. The bunks of Lake Superior .were ined wrth
AZnquins, who sought an asylum from the incursions of the
fS^i^s They also haiissed aUthe northern Indians,
• Herriot, j>. TO.
no
TBI IBOHDOW.
a, for as HudsonS Bay ? and they even attacked tlie nations
''"iSrlSKtith Indians alone, that these gallant warriors
contended for nearly a century.and a half, .th^y «"?«» cm.
a Wa^ Sst the French possessions in Louis.ana and Cana-
SiJ^rtimes alone, and sometimes ■"/"^"^t'^J^rvrfJeu
W«h colonists. During ^^.s eventful pen«^. they rtte.
maintained a proud supenonty, always anhopo^^^'^.^Vtv
^e, wd no vicissituke of fortune, or visitation of catam^j.
Se"r compel them to descend from the elevated g^und
which d!ey occupied in their own estimation, and in U.e
"^Se^.'^M.DeraUrre. the govemor-genend of Canada
«JvJeeded w^th an army againit the cantons. He landed
Sm Osweg^. but finding h^m.elf incomnetcnt to meet the
enemv he^nstituted a negotiation, and demanded a coiifer-
*ncr'0n th« occasion, liarangida, an Onondap chief, at-
^nded in behalf of his country, and made h.s celebrated
1^ to M Delabarr*. The French retired from the coun-
^l^^ digS.ce The second general exped wLd have conquered the whole of Canada, .f
K had understood the art of attacking fortified places.
Thf. Dcace was soon disturiied by the artifices of Kondia-
3S,^aXo^^hief , md the IroqioU made an irrupuon oa
thei
dest
T
rate)
thei
Can
mar
villa
to <
tak<
was
Fre
witl
hea
sior
kni
au(
bav
lUe
rep
pn
fall
ke
tac
Er
we
fro
mi
snr
ho
th
on
th
th
ra
m
tc
d
b
ti
mi! iRoacois.
Ill
iren attacked the nations
»t these gallant warriors
d a half, they carried oi>
8 in Louisiana and Cana-
i in conjunction with tlie
:ntful period, they often
ays an honourable resist-
, or visitation of calamity,
from the elevated ground
n estimation, and in tlie
:emor-general of Canada,
the cantons. He landed
incompetent to meet the
I, and demanded a confcr-
la, an Onondap chief, at-
and made his celebrated
nch retired from the coun-
eueral expeintry, and were
tlie cannon of Niagara,
ir pacification with Great
trace the history of the
heir constant diminution,
gradual. Their present
lesson to human pride,
y on record, that nations,
■ovidence to destruction,
luntry, wherever we turn
red, the same unaccount-
the term, is to be seen,
ho has made these events
lose war-cry made
the glade*
ttled side by side,
y waters glide?
who stood
; western flood ?
which lit the shore
Shenandoah ?
swells the gale,
f thy quiet vale ;
song of war,
murmur more.
oquois aU that now remain
lida, Onondaga and Seneca
oned their country, during
yugas have also since done
I'uscaroras reside on three
;er, on lands pven to them
and Company. The Oneida
e than ten thousand acres?
•. The 8enec?8 have theu-
■ceki their reservations are
extensive and valuable, containing more than one hundred
and sixty thousand acres ? and they possess upwards of one
hundre(i thousand dollars in the stock of the late bank of the
United States.
The Six Nations have lost their high character and elevated
standing. They are, in general, addicted to idleness and
drunkenness ) the remnant of their eloquence ard military
spirit, as well as national strength, is to be found only among
the Senecas. Their ancient men, who have witnessed the
former glory and prosperity of their country, and who have
heard from the mouths of their ancestors the heroic achieve-
ments of their countrymen, weep like infants, when they
speak of the fallen condition of the nation. They;, however,
derive some consolation from a prophecy of ancient origin,
and universal currency among them, that the man of America
will, at some future time, regain his ancient ascendency, and
expel the man of Europe from this western hemisphere.
This flattering and consolatory persuasion has restrained,
in some degree, their vicious propensities ; has enabled the
Seneca and Shawanese proplkets to arrest, in some tribes,
the use of intoxicating liquors ; and has given birth, at dif-
ferent periods, to certain movements towitfds a general con-
federacy of the savages of North America. That they con-
sider the white man as an enemy and an intruder, who has
driven them from their country, is most certain ; and they
cherish this antipathy with so much rancour, that when they
abandon their settlements, they make it a rule never to dis-
close to him any mineral substances or springs, which may
redound to his convenience or advanta^.
There is another feature in the aboriginal history of this
country, which will strike the traveller peculiarly alter pass-
ing Onondaga. Over the vast extent of country spreadinj^
to the west of this place, and even beyond the Mississippi,
are seen the remMns of fortifications, or rude camps, which
would seem to be the work of nations advanced in civilization,
far beyond the In
Id
ba
oil
al
in
re
th
ei
w
Ski
ia
TIOJIS.
kcs, there are sever*! ;
ler. Near the village of
word, tliey are scattered
Sng, erected on the most
r breastworks are earth ;
the works. On some of
seen, which, from the
have been standing one
sixty, and three hundred
:ation8, not only tliat they
of those works, but tliat
h. The trenches are in
ithcrs narrow and shallow;
:ude from three to eight
sometimes two entrances,
g no ditch at those places.
>y a deep nivinc, or a large
seen. The uveas of these
and in some of them, frag-
rized substances, supposed
nes, have been found.
;em entirely unacquamted,
liese extraordinary works;
litional knowledge, its utter
the contradictory accounts
ility to any mode of warfare
Lness for any of their domes-
I in vain even to conjecture;
them, that of Mr. CUnlon,
I in some instances by seve-
nost consideration, and sup-
d science. Mr. Clinton be-
> ancient Goths of the cml-
ption of the barbarians from
•rth, over Fmnce, Italy and
1)8 of a scene which was act-
of America; tliat this conti-
powerful in arts and arms,
d with the use of metals, and
It as Siberia and Russia were
ic, so the vast regions in the
Ascmrr poutificatioih— wmt HtLt.
11.1
nortli of Asia, overteeming with population, supplied the
hordes which sought new homes in another continent ; that
the people of America, compelled to defend themselves from
their ruthless invaders, constructed numerous works for their
protection, and long and vigorously resisted their hardy aii-
teironists ; but, like the degenerated Romans, worn down by
successive inroads, and perhaps enervated by peace and
civilization, they were conquered by theu- barbarous and in-
numerable foes— while in these rude and decaying monu-
ments, we behold all that is left of the ancient and extenm-
nated race. "This is perhaps," concludes Mr. y a subterranean pahiage. It .» cer-
Shat uTe Sn. rf the OU«:o, for a short distance below
SesI .jA^g^ po«e» ^rong petrifi«:tive quaht.es. not ob-
"xhe'rJlS'now p««e. through a flourishing countr,^ well
cUtivatXand containing many inanufactunn| estobWi-
ments A. we approach Skeneateless. Uie lake is seen
M Snir its glaST^ace several miles to the south, and
irsfi S^mm^with HtUe villus risinprnid woods and
sT.' U. Thevillage of Skeneateleu is six miles from Marcellus,
!^;iSin.rciT«b«^.^^^
r:Ch"it*f^i«li «^^d^abr^^^ to the
SJuth Ind v^e" in >^dth from half a mile to a m>le ""d *
onTSr^s with many handsome private mansions. The
coit S Sxo3 offices are here , and thestote pn«>n
"^oL»eo Lake is about eleven mUes in length, and from one
toSty tw^e. in width. Its outlet. Owasco cr^k. on
wWA^Unds the vaiage of Auburn, dischwgesiwrUith^ug^
AuieUus and Mente to Seneca nver, about fifteen miles.
Swi^^inS i" a «naU stream that ~n» i"»?;5«»;f„^ ^
Owasco lake. OwaKJO, in the languageof the ^»o)m, is
.. bSre? and iu lake took it. name ^^^.^'^'^^
bridpVf drift-wood, ancienOy formed acroM it, near the
""fcoiwing Auburn, the country » much more open and
impS^eSTTi^-fiinushed houses «id thrivmg villsge. are
;■■— AUBCKlf.
out eighty hou«e», rtores
reach the village of Mar-
containing a church, a
es. In the 0 Creek
h it is supposed are fed
»nean passage. It is cer-
br a short distance below
ftictive qualities, not ob-
flourishing country, well
manufacturing establisli-
teless, U»e lake is seen
1 miles to the south, and
», rising amid woods and
i six miles from Marcellus,
d appears to carry on !i
same name, at the outlet
bout fifteen miles to the
ilf a mile to a mile and a
gs, and is always late iii
I • long,' in the ^'.^^>^ant
I nip I
Si
cup
Stan
ill >
buil
wa
thj'
11..
»ng, »nd receiving in their
jB, OWMCO, HkencateleiiiS
;r laket, till they meet the
! Hirer Foint . the united
if the Oiwe/fo river, wyl
0. It is » ninifulw fact in
only twenty-tour niile» in
! Burplui Wtttcm aiuchwgeil
rion,' in the weitem part
ward to Caiumdwgun lake,
stream*, many of them ol
ydraulic works. lt« width
urging a powerful stream,
ven thouwnd square roiks,
lurishing region,
nd a quarter broad, is cross-
it two miles above its north-
harming view is presented
Ues of lU shores, the farm
•d with cattle, or rich with
mediately on the western
tea, a village setUed in the
I Colonel John Htunes, who
ke. It may contjun about
•ountry well settled, chiefly
tes, for three miles, when we
ontwns about forty dweUing
rsonage, two large merchant
saw-mill, turnery, distiller)-,
)ut two hundred inliabitante.
[ynderse, a gentleman of en-
L in 1795, where ai-e annually
, bushels of wheat ; and the
dit to that genUeman and to
f iVaterloo, on the north bank
s west of Seneca Falls, seven
id eighty-seven west ol Alba-
id jail, a number of manufac-
1, with stores, Uverns, about
ind six hundred inbabiUnto.
utof this village were m Islo.
eixir*— siFicA I \K(.
U»
M iu name will show: since that period, hotv rapid has been
its Increase ! But a few years since, the hunter might have
pursued his chase uninterrupted, where now he niids the
busy haunts of man ! One misfortune, however, hai attended
it — want of healthiness < it is severely visited by the ague ,
but as in many other instances, this may pass away, with in-
crensing civilization, the diminution of the forests, and the
improvement of the low groiuids,
Six miles bcj onil Waterloo, we arrive at 0«i««, a flourish-
ing town, situated on the north-western extremity of the
Si-ncca litke, one hiiiulred and ninetv-iiinc miles from Albany,
one hiindrod und eight from Buffalu, thirty from .V/(/u.i Uit/^
on Lake Ontario, twelve miles south of the Erie oaiial, and
fiCiy-eight from Elntiru, on the Tioga brancli of the Susque-
hanna. It contsiins about three iiundreJ dwelling houses, a
number of «hops, two printiiig-ofliccii, a bank, a land oflicc,
ai'd a libraiy. There ure three liandjiome churches, for Epin-
cupulians, Methodistii and Presbyteriu■)^i; and a largo und suh-
ktantiul stone edifice has lately been erectctl us uii acudciny,
in which are already nearly one hundred students. Thi>
building, it is expected, will in a short time axiiumc the !«r :>M miles
wuiU of the village i and much of the capital uwiu" iiere is
actively employed in various works and sectinns os tlie sur-
rounding country. The trade of the village Is estimated at
half a million of dollars per annum. Stage coaches pass daily
between this place and Albany, Utica and Uiifl'ulo ! three
times a week, communicate with Albany, by Cherry Vall"yj
and with Newburg, Owego, Ithaca and Ovid ; twice a week
with Vienna, Lyons, Palmyra, llochester. Sodas and Pultc-
ncyville. The navigation through the Seneca nvcr to the
Kne canal is pretty good, and (ieneva seems yet likely to
retain its present business, and to increase in population.
The situation of the village is elevated, commanding an ex-
tensive view of the lake and the adjacent coiuitiy, and few
places have more busines.s, or more of tlie means or enjoy-
ments of active industry and enteiprise.
The Seneca Lake is onu of the most beautiful sheets of
water in our country. It extends to the south for about
thirty-five miles, vjuyinj in width from two to four nules,
:i
ip.!'
;„d is very deep "j* "-"/^tte ptf.Stt
springs, and by the "."^^iff'Ji*^^ caught in great plenty,
ttoutfand 'n««X*«"5*''^?/iui'fo^l and game. The banks
and its shores ''bound w^ wddfow and^g^^ .^, ^^^.
of the lake ^?^„^* S^^i,,rbo d decUvities.^ut gene-
times descending *» ,"*^ J'^'j? blending themselves almost
rally '»lopi'?K,B«^A 2cid^»^^" The following beau-
SrarJ-CwrwriSy^Mr. Percival. on vis...g tl«s
enchanting spot:—
On thv fair bosom, silver Lake .
** The wild swan spreads lus snowy t^.
And round his breast tlie npples break.
As^own he bears before the gale.
On thy fair bosom, waveless stream !
The dipping paddle echoes far,
A,^ curl ai'ound the dashing oar,
As bte the boatman hies him home.
How sweet, at set of sun, to \-ieW
Thr^lden mirttjr, spreading wide.
And see the mist of mantling blue
Float round the distant mountain side !
-A-^^aSr^pSi^-^r"'
-s^S£s:&t^a?^"^-"o-
On thv fair bosom, silver Lake !
O- I could ever sweep the oar.
When early birds at mormng wake.
And evening teUs us, toil « o'er.
. ^ ♦!.» mad nassep '"'^r sixteen mUes over a
Leaving Geneva, the w*^ Pas*e ^^ ^^^
country ^autifiilly dive^ified^wiU^^^^ ^. ^^ ^^ „f
of Camndazgm, f"f^fS°of Ontario county, one of
Z Sr^e ;ii^:,^»Kxt to that of New.York. the
„Tii»ll»l5'»i.i,','.'l "W!
HOAIOVA.
d by ice, being fed by
)kedlake. Pike, salmon,
E caught in great plenty,
rl and game. The banks
r, asweswlupiti Bome-
,ld declivities, but gene-
ending themselves almost
PS The following beau-
Percival, on visitmg tlus
!rs.
ike !
Is snowy tail,
pples break,
; the gale.
» stream !
oes far,
fht gleam,
polar star.
ily
„, shore,
1, heave their foam,
ingoar,
g him home.
to \new
coding wide,
ling blue
mountain side !
es the moon.
Is below,
ghest noon,
aths of purest snow.
Lake !
) the oar,
ning wake,
;oili8 0'er.
igse« -^-^T sixteen miles over a
dtl. ..ul and dale, to tlie town
northern end of the lake of
tal of Ontario county, one o»
:xt to that of New-York, the
tt.TiKimM.iovi. 121
largest in population. The surface is agreeably diversified,
waving in gentle swells and vales of ample area, with tracts
of champam, and the southern part more or less hilly. The
soil partakes of a connderable variety, but a warm and rich
mould forms the greater proportion, while along the borders
of Lake Ontario, there are tracts of argillaceous loam, but
with a slight adnuxture of mould. The whole, however,
may be pronounced a very excellent country, for the varioua
products of agriculture. Few counties of this state, or in the
Uiuted States, enjoy more of the abundance of nature, or
possess the blessings of social life, in a richer variety. The
climate is temperate, and for persons inured to it, perfectly
healthy ; nor as a fruit count^, for the apple, pear, plutn,
cherry, melon and the grape, is it excelled in the state.
Canandugua is built on an inclined plane, risinsrirom the
lower extremity of the lake. It conwsts principafly of a fine
broad street, with an open area in the centre of the village,
comoianding a beautiful view, at less than half a mile distant
from the bie. This street is about a mile in length, rising
by an easy acclivity from the water, and, at the end of the
borough, or village, attains a commanding elevation. In
point of beauty and elegance of position, as well as in the
style of its buildings, Canandauguais excelled by no place of
the same extent in the United States. It contains about four
hundred houses and stores, and between two and three tlwu-
sand inhabiUnte. Among its public buildings, are the court-
house, jiul, fire-proof office of the court, three churches, a
state arsenal, an academy, five school-houses, a masonic hall,
two banks, and two land offices. There are three or four print-
ing offices and three gazettes, forty stores, several of which
are very extensive, and a large book-shop. The county prison
is a large stone building, enclosed on the north and west sidea
by a thick stone wall, and cost the county thirty thousand dol-
lars. In 1790, this spot contained but a single human habita-
tion ; and when the Duke de Liancourt tiwelled through it,
some years after, the inn at which he passed the night had hot
one chamber, which was also used as a corn-loft, in which all
the guests, of whatever sex, nmk or i^, were obliged to sleep.
It was in the midst of tluck forests, inhabited by Indians; and
the road to Niagara was but a foot or horse track, traced «-itli
great difficulty thnragh the woods. In the year 1818, aa
Mr. Darby was ttaveXm^ tumigh thia country, be accident-
L
122*
CAXiSKAlcrA.
„«pttlv» ,™^c by »«B... . v,lk|^rf whom
S'Sr^rE^.'^nr' S'.g r-^»s o«.Sd. Wen
SL .MS ctCJ.. wi* to «>•"= «««/■-■• »™8 '" "" "*">
overlookiiMt this Und of encUntineiit. . ^ „..iri
tha
to
mc
Iti
mc
Ra
art
thi
Eli
ne
an
&
sti
re
cc
of
It
w
P;
81
al
d
ti
8
a
^mm^^^T'^'^^^
rxITTOU 8P11I50*.
133
om tie ontcred the town,
ofthe lake," he observes
meadows near the town
Imiration at the stote ol
My fellow traveller re-
ame to this outlet; and at
anil was here to be seen,
illage of whom eadsted on
end ofthe now flourishing
doubt his information,—
2 shortness of the period,
f human labour under my
of magic!" The ground
jperiortothstofanyoUier
n part of this state. The
lals are extensive and ele-
, gardens, and combining
^aiice and taste. The pnn-
men uvea, in the centre, of
onveniert and ornamental,
opted, in populous country
Teat propriety the observa-
c intelligent English lady,
, few years since, and pub-
Is, the interesting View of
" The villages at the heails
res, " arc all thriving, cheer-
Cttiiandaigua, I think, bears
been disposed of in lots ot
ireachh, running in lines di-
lain road. The houses are
[lows, with gi-een Venitian
ne young trees, or standing
• little lawns, as green and
ling girdens, orcliards laden
ms, peaches, &c. and fields
ehind each of these lovely
e atceple, rising in the midst,
tinent.
, the encroachment of culto-
rth of settlements, and their
Krowth into towns, surpass belief, tdl one has been an eye-
Witness of the miracle, or conversed on the spot with those
who have been so. It is wonderfully cheering to And yo""
self in a country which tells only of improvement What
other land is there, that points not the imagination back to
better days, contrasting present decay with departed strengtn,
or that even in its struggles to hold a forwai-d career, is not
checked at every step by some physical or political hin-
"I think it was one of the sons of Constantine, I am sure
that it was one of his successors, who, returning from a visit
to Rome, said that he had learned one thing there, that
men died in that Queen of Cities, as they did elsewhere.
It might requu* more, perhaps, to remind a stranger of the
mortality of his species in these states, than it did in old
E. AU here wears so n.uch the gloss of novelty-jdl
around you breathes so much ofthe life and energy of youth,
that a wanderer from the antique habitations of time-wom
Europe might look around, and deem that man here held a
new ?hartef of existence , that Time had folded his wmgs,
and the Sisters Uirown away the shears,"
About ten miles north-east of Canandaigua, are some sul-
phur springs, which have attracted considerable notice, and
DI oEtaiSed the name of ClifUm Springs. The waters are
strongly impregnated with sulphur, at first Perfectly transpa-
rent, bicoiiing opaque, and changing to a yeUowish cream
cdour, as the precipitates form, which consist of carboi«te
of lime, and of^sulpW, in the state of bnms^one. In dus
state, they emit great quantiUes of sulphuretted hydrogen,
which diffuses the scent to very considerable distances. Yet
plants grow in these springs, though covered with the depo-
Stio:i (§■ sulphurous and calcareous matter, as are the stones
also, and every other body resting m the water ? and catUe
drink from tliem very freely, witliout injury, or any p rcep-
tible effects. Where one of the spnngs rises, is ? spot erf
five or six rods in diameter, completely covered with these
mineral precipitates, principally sulphur, *»J'<=h « fo»nd to
be in some plices nearly six feet deep , and cart-loads of it
may be collected in a few minutes, though mixed with eveiy
substance which chance has thrown into the mass : and yet,
abundant as it is. no attempts seem to have been made to
cleaiue or manufacture any of it for use. These spnngs have
-i., .iiniij iy j. « i I tmmm'm'fW'
134
BoiuiiRA •rai««-
become places of conriderable resort, especaUy by perbons
afflicted with scrofiiloiu affections, in which the u»e of ttie
waters has been found highly beneficial. The Chiton Hotel
luw a smaU libraiy, with good accommodations for visitors.
About rane miles south-west of Canandaigua, m the town-
shin of Britlol, there is another remarkable fountain, known
bythenameofthe2»ttming^««. The fbllowing account
3 a visit to it is given by an intelUgent traveller:—
•• We entered a smaU but thick wood of pine and n»ple,
enclosed within a narrow ravine, the 8t«ep«des rf wta^
composed of dark cUy sUte, rise to the height of about torqr
feet Down thU glen, whose width at its entrance maybe
about Mxty yards, trickles a scanty streamlet, wandenng mm
side to side, as scattered rocks or Men trees afford or demr
it a passage. We had advanced on ito course ^out fifty
yard! when, close under the rocks of the right bank, we
Mrceived a bright f«d flame, bunung briskhr on ita watars.
Pieces of lighted wood being apphed to dxffaeiA adiacent
■pots, a space of several yaids was immediateljrin a btae.
Being iiSrmed by our guide, that a repetition of this pli^
nomenon might be seen higher up the g^en, we scrwnbled
on for about a hundred yards, and, directed in some degree
by a strong smeU of sulphur, apphed a match to severU
pkces. wl& the same effect. The rocky banks here «>-
proach so closely, as to leave litUe more than a coune to the
irtream, whose stony channel formed our path : sulphur, m
some places, ooied from them abundantly. We advanced
about seventy yards further, when we found the glen termi-
nate in a perpendicular rock, about thirty feet high, over-
irpown with moss, and encumbered with Men pine trees,
through which Uie drops, at this dry period of the s.^som
scarcely trickle. These fires, we were told, ccnunue bmm-
ing unceasingly, unless extinguished by accident The phe.
nomenon was discovered by the casiuil roUinjf of some hgjit-
ed embers from the top of the bank, while it was clearing
for cultivation. In the intensity and duration of the flame,
it probably exceeds any thing of the kmd yet discovered.
We could however find no traces of a spnng on its whole
course : the water on which the first fire was !>»"«»« ™«
indeed a stagnant appearance, and probably was so. from ttM
failure of the current j but it had no pecuhar taste or smoti,
was of the ordinary temperature, and but a few mches deepj
afc'
thro
dry
«irc
let
bel(
of a
the
1
not
not!
sou
Pet
— a
%vei
AU
1
ter,
Kid
of
latt
»w
th(
he
ap
im
su
Y(
fe
T
th
oj
th
fr
P
ni
vi
el
ii
8
auLraon »rBii»«B— «a«t BLOOnnjir.
125
It, especially by persons
in which the u»e of the
icial. The Clifton Hotel
amodations for visitors.
anandaiguB, in the town-
larkable fountiun, known
. The following account
ent travellers-
wood of pine and maple,
the steep udes of wuch,
the height of about fatty
t at iu entrance m aybe
itreamlet, wandering nam
lUen trees- afford or deny
on its course about fifqr
U of the right bank» w»
dng briskhr on its waters,
tlied to different a4|«:ent
ta immediately in a bUze.
t a repetition of tiiis phe-
ip the glen, we scrambled
I, directed in some dagrte
tphed a match to several
■he rocky banks here ap-
! more than a coune to the
led our path : sulphur, in
sundantly. We advanced
r» we found the glen temu-
jout thirty feet high, over-
ed with fallen pine trees,
cby period of ok season,
I were told, ccnunue bum-
led by uccident Thephe*
»8iul rolling of some h(^t-
ank, while it was clearing
and duration of the flame,
r the kind yet discovered.
» of a spring on its whole
first fire was bunung had
d probably was so, fWm» the
1 no pecuUar taste or smell,
and but a few inches deepi
a few bubbles indicated the passage of the mflammable air
throueh it, on applying a match to the adjacent parts of the
dry rwik, a momentary flame played along it also. 1 hese
circumstances induced u» to consider the bed of the sta«am-
let as accidentally affording an outlet to the inflammable au-
below, and the water as in some degree performing the part
ot a candle-wick, by preventing its immediate dispersion mto
the atmosphere." . . • -i
There are also considerable sulphur springs, mne miles
north-west of Canandaigua 5 and it may perhaps be worth
noticing, that a line drawn through both would strike, in a
south-west direction, the warm spring near Huntingdon, in
Pennsylvaniar— the Berkley medicinal waters, on the Potomac
—and thence, foUowing the course of the mountains soiiUr-
west, tlie hot springs of Bath, and the sulphur springs m the
R^m'cananchugua, a stage is freqiienUy taken to Roches-
ter, and thence to tJie Falls of Niagara; passmg along the
Kidire road, and through Lewistown and MaKchester, instead
of Buffalo. Continuing however the usual route by the
latter place, we pass through a flat and m some places
wampy coimtry. The soil, however, is exuberantly fertile ;
the timber is fine, and the maple, the hickory, the elm, wh,
hemlock and oak, adorn the forests; the farms have a fine
appearance, and the whole countiy seems in a state (rt rapid
improvement. The frequency with wliich the pubho housM
succeed each other, evinces tlie great travelling on tbos road.
Much pains have been taken, in the western parU of New-
York, to open and render convenient the highways; ^t in
few countries is the construction of good roads more difficult.
The rich fertility of the soU, and its depth of vegetable mould,
thouirh so very desirable in an agricultural point of view,
oppose very serious obstacles to the formaUon of roads. In
the winter season, unless when the surface is completely
frozen, traveUing must in this quarter be very difficult and
**"as we approach E» Hon«we Or^ 1^^^
awMll lake of the same name, and of Caneadea •nd^^«»*
iLkeT Passinir through the villages of Lima and Jhm, the
onLthreV^^e other twelve rnifes
wT reach the Ge««a River. This stream, mini on the
UbleS in the western part of ^-^^^'^ r'JTi^
Ohio and Susquehanna have their sources, and even inter-
kcWnff with the head waters of those mighty nvers. flows
,'rrSerly direction thi-ough the western part of New-
YoAU. whole coui-se in that state is about one hjmdred
aiTtWenty-five miles, and is in general a direct one, lU smaH
S^ are however nume«.us, and embrace "'"'y »»«=^
TricTsnd productive lowland. Thei-e are a number of
»„rra,^caL«lesonthis.tream.duringitsp«sageth^^
the Btote. Near its mouth, at Carthage, are tal s of one hun-
Z^ four feet , at Uochester. just above ot ninHy-seven
«nda half feet, and some rapids, tor two miles further, from
JSiS of which Uie fe^er leads into the Erie canal.
S^Sle below the lower fall, at Carthage, it has a doop
IgJrilpition, and haibour, to Lake OnUn«s sbout four miles.
FiSrSie head of the rapids above Rochester, it is nav.wble
Kh water to the falls; ninety miles by w'^'.^y If l^i^J'
and ft low water, seventy miles, though by l^d only Uurty-
five through a very rich and productive country. In tlie
[own Snda, at 3ie north eni of Allephany county, there
M* two other falls, near each other, of sixty and mnety feet.
Xivl which it ba^in aduggish »tre«n,>ut qu.tcsmaU,
and at Angelica, Ktde more *an a good sised mill-«rtream.
Th««i«vf™a WU amount to four hundred and seventy*^
feercMUgh to show that the river flows through a country
Slifty^llmtion. Mr. Spafford. a genUemen of peat mw
teUigehce and ob«:rvation, to whom the irtate of New^Tork
iaXedinfly indebted. » weU for *« •Sr^tTS
new of hi.Tnve«tigat«M», «• f« the rahiable w«»« »>«»*»
pubKsbed upon hir hirtory, •t»ti»«ici, toMp.phy, gecrtogyv
Ki^of option. *•* fi>w»«>»l '" »» ^ *~»* " ** '^°"
inn BiTii.
other and to the Seneca,
limestone, extremely fi»-
)ver!»yed by tand, round-
f Wed Bkr-nfitUt wher«
of housea and ahopa. A
leoye Cteek, the outlet of
of Caneadea and Hemlock
es of Lima and Jvon, the
;s beyond Honeoye creek,
his stream, rinng on the
Pennsylvania, where the
gourcca, and even inter-
hose mighty rivers, flows
he western part of New-
ale is about one hundred
neral a direct one; its email
and embrace many tracts
There arc a number of
during its passage through
tha||:e, are falls of one hun-
just above, of ninety-seven
for two miles further, from
leads into the Erie canal,
at Carthage, it has a sloop
Ontario, about four miles,
e Rochester, it is navigable
nilcs by water, by land fifty,
though by Umd only thirty-
roductive country. In tl>e
of Alleghany county, there
lev, of sixty and ninety feet,
ish streant, but quite small,
1 a good sized mill-stream.
)ur hundred and seventy-six
ver flows through a country
I, a gentlemen of great in-
hom the stote of New^York
for the extent and mimite-
the vmHiable works he has
istics, topogwphy, gto\offy,
m to be found in the region
«»!»K«Ki»— aio-TBaa tbact.
1«
around the head water, of this stream. The laine, he teUs
uTsignifie^ in the original language of the country, 'a plea-
** A l£rt Lance above Avon, on the aUuvial *«« of the
river, i. Geneno. a township ce1ebratedj«rthe f«J^^
soil, and itaextenwve and luxuriant farms. About twelve
hundred acres, situated in a turn of ttie nver, ^^}^^^^
the name of the Big^ree Trad, not fronithe B.ae of.the torn- .
ber. aa we might at first suppo«!. but from an Indian chief
named Big-trle, who with hVs litUe tribe inhabited tbu bend
Vvhen this region was first setOed by *e Engh*. It «
now howeve? the farm of Mr. Wadsworth, weU known
Thi^^ghout the United States foj .!»« .^^^^^y ."'^ P"^^
but aSove aU for the celebrity of iU live "tock. *fr. W*d^
worth is a gentleman of New-EnK»»nd, who, «bout^e«^
of the last centiuy. aocompamed by his t'other, pierced the
wilderness, then inhabited «">y by t^e savage and hM prey.
They selected the level country ^^f^^'^^^.^^'^^^
seated tliemselves down among Indians ""d wild uncultured
forests, and contended for years with hardships, "i^ng^" "J
sicknS*. Their choice and judgment, however^ faiveno^
misled them : from the portico ».♦,»»«• house. Mr. W^JsWot^
may now look down over a wide chamnain country, nch
w7h S^ksandheixls. or bending beneaU. lu^nanth^^esU^
^ nd his mansion, the gentle declmt.es are "domed wrth
( U1.S and groves of young acacias, but m the d>»tanf •««
■ve dwells o^orests. in which a few poor I"-!""* ^^S^f^'
id «,ek a precarious subsutencc by h^t'-J.^J^'^^'lj'^
mals, ere they have entirely disappeared before the rertlew
Krteps of enterprise. To tl.e r\ght is <;«? " *«jf^ °J
QefU>M, the hirg^st in the county, contaimng Ae pubhc
Suildirjs, andTlitUe chapel, whose SP"**;* behold «sm|
from itJ bosom, an emblem as ^V^T'f .ST ThL whSe
blessings which have been Uvished around, ^n* *»»*«
is a scene which makes us love «»' ??«»^', "? !^"'SS
the enterpriring man who has created it. « »e^J»* "^
gination to waSder back to Aose tunes, ^henH»me cwJW
Snd her noblest citizens at the plough , «* '^^ ^^^
to our memory the many simihr «:enes which we maywe^^
where behold a. we pass along, H awaken. «» ' -« »«^*^
enthosiann, it force, from our Hps the glowmg hngwge. «
Si
}38
•aVUBB ttAT*— »*T*VI«.
the Honum poet, .nd teU. u. th.t we n«^y without v«»tj
apply it to a diitont country and another age.
Sed neque Medonim sylv*. «!'»•*»••"* .'^"^W.^,,
Nee piSchcr Ganges, atque a«J« ^"''''''"f. ""T!*
LaiuUbu. Italijt certcnt , nee Bactm neque Indi-
HfciCBivid* fruges, olexque, armentaquc Uta;
Ste 5S .«iduul ataue alienis men»'bus *rtas.
Adde tot egregias urbes opcnimqiic laborein,
Tot congert* manu pnemptis oppida saxis;
FluminMUC antique* wbtcriabt- ntia mtiros.
sK mgna pa«ns frugum, Saturma tellus!
Magna virumf
If we have not yet the unnumbered cities rising an« J every
on* to Dlains teemuig w th luxuriant harvests, and f^«
2^ aSnU«S»;»pringingup almost spontaneously from
Sr^wiSbr L oU, t? the ti---"-2r':^u«d
spends the decaying year, of h.s life "« ru^J.^^ '^^""^
f^Sv whwL soil is grcaUy inferior to that on the eastern
*ri^'Ke*S weU cut tL farnu. become ^^ f-^-^
and the oak forms the prevaihng tunber of the region. Vu».
C through the Uttie villages of Caledoma and U^ wd
c^^Alkn's and Black Creek», we arrive at BaUwM, the
S^of fusUce of Genesee county. It is plea^tly seatedon
^e nXm shore of Tonnetcanta Creek,^^dconU^j^
good houses. Besides the court-house and i'^^Jl^J^^
Kc buUdings, the Holland Land Company's office, some
Slea»nt Privatemanaions, and numerous stores, shops, hoteb
!Kven 8 A«eat many roads centre in this viWk. on
S^ 5 wSch. abof^milc north-west from the court-W,
SSLS rUinal belonging to the stote, in which are depo-
sited
mun
floui
sum
has I
neig
med
whi(
the I
we may without vaiwtj
>tber age.
dssima terra,
ro turt>idu» Hermu",
tactra neque Indi—
innentaquc l«ta;
'^mensibus xstas.
mqiie laboreiii!
jppida 8axi«;
lentia muros.
Saturniu tellua!
■ed cities rising amid every
yet glide beneath walln
on every side an innocent
the true road to greatness
lat the world has yet be-
ower, when asked by the
and ruins, to point for tl>e
•iaut harvests and snuling
almost spontaneously from
the time-worn vetemn, who
life ui rural cares, sooUicd
hiscountiy!
I substantial wooden bridge,
a plain caUed the Gtnetee.
. Leaving these, we enter
ferior to that on the eastern
farms become less frequent,
timber of the region. Pas^
Caledonia and Le Boi/, and
», we arrive at Batama, the
■. It is pleasantly seated on
to Creek, and contjuns many
house and jail, it has several
uid Company's office, some
imerous stores, shops, hotels
ids centre in this village, on
j-west from the courtAouse,
ibe state, in wbicb ve depo-
■ATATH— BCTPlW. ^^
•sited ai-ras to a considerable amount, and various kindii of
munitions of war and military stores. This appears to be a
flourishing town, and to carry on an active trade with the
surrounding country : but the completion of the Bne canal
has not had a favourable effect on the business of thia or the
neiglibmuing villages ; the towns wluch have sprung up im-
mediately on iU banks have absorbed much of the commerce
which they formerly enjoyed, and they have cauw to envy
the good fortune of their younger neighbour*—
Mantua vae ! misers nimium vidua Cremonx.
Leaving Batavia, the road follows for some distance the
valley of the muddy and sluggish Tonne^wita nver, which
is crossed at four miles from that place. The soil, of which
the basu is sclustose limestone, overlayed by sMjd, iwuhI
pebbles and vegetable earth, is eiceUent, thougta too Jtat
for heahh, or very benefleaal cultivation. Ten miles fwttaer,
we reach Jfiinfcr Oreefc, beyond which the road rises mto a
hilly broken country, where, however, some extendve llatt
occur. This part of the country is rendered mwt worthy oT
remark, by the numerous masses of schistose fissured blue
limestone. Many pUces sre seen, where this rock covers
large spaces, and has every appearance of havmg once foroi-
cd the^ed of a body of water. The timber m the neij*-
bourhood consists cWefly of pine, elm and sugar-maple » the
soil U fertile, though agriculture must in many places be in-
commoded by the large bodies of naked or ahghtly covered
limestone, which we have mentioned.
The next village is IViUiamivilk, on EUuotl's Creek, a busjr
litUe place, having a postK)ffice, a ^at many miUs, a toll-
bridge upwards of two hundred feet in length, and a number
of lundsome shops, inns and stores. From this village, the
next stage brings us to Buffalo. That borough is seated on
the fine though rather low plain, wluch forms the ewtem
shore of Lake Erie. The soil is a moist gravelly or clayey
loam, with gentle slopes towards the waters of the lake.
Uke most other new towns, Buffalo is composed in a gr^t
part by one street, following the course of the road towwto
the eastward, though the town itself Ues very neariy in a north-
ern and southern direction. A few others cross the main steeet,
but are" litae improved. Very little remains of the destruc-
tive rage of an enemy 5 most of the houses are rebuUt, but
■■ii«i"iwi hne
it
il
ai
St
di
ai
o]
H
vi
ai
It
o
K mocK.
le fury of invawon. Many
egant dwelling* and utore-
:hc termination of the l«»t
and many decent taverns,
traveller. The number ot
lake at this place, i» form-
dca, and Caaenovia creeks,
uth-eaat, approach Buffalo
wever, nubaidea before the
rhe harbour formed by thia
gafe from all winds ; but
its mouth, will only admit
draught. A light-houae is
s lake and the creek, and m
Bse who navigate the lake.
from the first forks above
it is interrupted by falls.
5 anchored out in the lake,
^ the mouth of Niagara river,
rent oppowte the mouth of
y gentle, gradually and im-
Mut contracts, until opposite
volume ' less than a mile
d cannot i e less tlian five or
m depth of from twenty to
f Niagara, we proceed north-
igwa river, and in two miles
er part of the distance is a
half mile, rising into a ridge
;er, has doubtless been pro-
ilashing aff^nst the ■l»o'* ("^
lably &ly increasing. Bwd
pass along, is nothing more
ove the surface of the water;
irbour, in which the veasels
shelter agwnst eveiy wind,
jurishing village, on the mar-
is here about two-thirds of a
l>y a gentle acclivity firOm the
>eing cultivated, afford a fine
oiAnn istAitn— FORT scHtossn.
131
prospect, though from iu having been »<>''«"<«"'«''• ^
Canada sliorc is much more improved than tliat of Ne'v-Yorli.
The bottom of the river is composed of smooth rock, over
which the water glides with a rapitlity which m astonishing j
if the stream flowed over broken masses of stone, it would
be impassable. .. , , m i. » .u
In the Niagara river, about three miles below Black RocK,
is situated Grand Inland. It is twelve miles long, and from
two to seven broad, and contains about eighteen thousand
acres of land. The soil is strong, rich, and well adapted to
cultivation, and much of it is covered with fine timber. 1 he
Indian tiUe to this and other islands in the Niagara was ceded
to the state of New-York, by a treaty made at Hufta o on the
12th September 1815, between Governor Tompkins and
others, commissioners on tlie part of the state, and U.e chiefs
of the Seneca nation. The state paid one thouMml dollars
down, and secured an annuity of five hundred dollars. 1 tiis
island will probably, at no distant period, become very popu-
lous and highly cultivated. ..,,», m^„^
Nearly opposite the middle of Grand Island, the -«««"*■
wrmla and meott'a Creek enter the eastern channel of the
Niairara. Extensive marshes skirt the foi-mer, from its mouth
a long distance inland, and it is navigable for boaU upwards
of twenty miles. Soon alter passing these streams the mep
turns almost direcUy west, its rapid cuiTent has however
become tranquil, and we sec noUung that would lead us to
anticipate the awful scene we are approaching.
At the lower extremity of Grand Island, and divided from
it by a narrow strait, is Navy Inland. Nearly opposrte w
thi Scklosser, an old stockade at the mouth of UiU Vrtek,
and Uie upper landing for the portage round the falls. I^arge
store-houses have been erected hei-e, where all the merchan-
dise intended for the south-western country is deposited,
and for>varded thence in boats to Black Rock. Its site la
opposite tlie north end of Navy Island. This post was sur-
rendered to the United States in 1796, agreeably to the pro-
visions of Jay's treaty. It was noUiing more than a stockade,
and is now only known as a fort by retaining lU former name.
It was built by the British, soon alter they gained poMCsson
of this country, in the old French war. A mile and a half
more bring us to the litUe village of Manchester, situated on
the bank of the river, close to the Falls.
1J3
■BIB CAWAt— ■•"■—*■•»"*»-
Havinr now r«Bched Uk. Erie, the ''^^rnUrmnMA^
of the GM C«w4 it U proper, before P'«««f*»»"K»™^''
tb»t we thould mention to the rc«ier eome of the "»* "^
inv ferture. which occur in that irrert *«> •J**' «* P^T
UficB, where it wiU be recoBecteS Uie ro«l cro«eB mmI dl-
**Sli leBTtnc Uticfc iu coutm it noith-weH, Biid pMefjV
SKUquulB^eck on an iqueduct, it re«:hee in four mUw
two ehuicbSi and upwwdt of o»» »!««»'«V5«^„ I^
piMW WBB ftrrt Bettled by Mr. White, » genUemwi Rom
V^.^SL«i, in the yew 1784, who li»ed to the edruiced
STof iSSlwyeBr^ when he beheld what he »«» found
a»«utmo5*er^of civilixation, chaywl '"«»;« P"**!!^
of a rich and populou. counlnr, ^retching for <«*«*'«*•
PaMinr bv Orukanv viilnirc, about fifteen milca from UUca,
K5,?n^rK, Sy half an-ile to t».c r«rth. -jj
•ituated on the bank of the <«>«».,««»» ««^""*y«.,'\?!j
Cruk with the Mohawk. It i. built ort U.c .ite ^ ^*^
SUmwix, a pwt erected by the British m 1738, at the enor-
moua expeiwe of two hundred and sixty thoiwand dollar*,
and fiom a heap of ruiiw rebuilt and enlarged in tlie revo-
lutionary war, under the name of /brt AkAuMfcr / ita ruint are
now SGUcely visible. Rome U incorporated aa a vUlage, ex-
tends wett from the Mohawk, in a haml«>me •<««»« "«;5
than a half mile in length, and has one hundred hou.es and
BtoKS, one church and tlic county buildinM.^ A~"*Jf'',; *
nile west of this viltagc. on the old ""»'• » "*"»*~^J'"
UnUtd Stated Antnal, on the road from Rome to Backett «
Harbour, and three hundi-e.l yanJs north of the Enc canal.
Thitettablishment was liK»ted in 1813, and built mlBlJ
and 1816. It atamla on the Rome summit, the highest laiia
between the Hudson and Lake Ontario, and was dcwgned
as a subordinate branch depot, under the ordnance depart-
ment The buikUiigs consist of an arsenal, forty by mnety-
iiB feet, three and a half stories high, with Btroiig stone walliii
• magazine, nineteen by siny-fivc ttct, one tXon, wrrouml-
«d^ a stone wall fifteen feet high, two hundred aiul seven-
ty f^ perimeter , a brick house for officer.' quartew, thirty-
MTcn 6y fortv4ive feet, two and a half rtone. "hove the
^awmrat. buHtand finished in good rtyle, a bnck office,
twowMden .tore houws, each one hundred by twenty feet.
B, th« wcium Uniun»tj«n
before proceedinff f»ither,
Icr tome oT the moit itrik-
gmt work, •fter h pMeu
d Uie road cro«n and dl-
• noith-weit, and |MMing
it, it reKhee in four nwe*
ins • eouit-houae and jwl,
«e hundred hwuea. thw
White, a genUeman ftom
who lived to the advanced
lehekt what he had found
chanRvd into the outokirtu
■tretching fcx to the wert.
Hit fifteen miles from Utica,
f a mile to the north, and
Id canal connecting Wood
built on tlie lite of old Fmi
British in 1738, at the enor-
aitd sixty thousand dollars.
It and enlarged in the revo-
f fbrt ISehuyUr i iu ruins are
ncorporateil as a village, ex-
I) a handsome street of mope
|)S8 one humlred houses and
nty buildings. About half a
le old c»n»l," b situated the
wad from Rome to Sackett's
anls north ol' the Eric canal.
I in 1813, and built in IB15
ne summit, the highest land
! Ontario, and was designed
under the ordnance depart-
if an arsenal, forty by ninety-
high, with irtrong stone walln:
ivc feet, one story, wirround-
ligh, two hundred and scven-
le for officers' quarters, tWrty.
Mid a half stories above the
n good sUrle \ a brick office,
I one hundred by twenty feet.
1rn% riRAi— cMmin««« cIuik.
133
two mechanics* shops, each seventy by nineteen feet, two
hiNises fur mechanics' quarters, each nhieteen by forty-eight
feett besides a labontof)', wood4imise, stable, ru'!r^ue paluttrcB
-ted aycamore tree,
i hodow in the incide. It ia
preached by a nuaMonary, to
i that fifteen more could have
ima, we reach lock No. 63,
its rise to Lake Erie, with-
ision. Five milea farther, is
on the bank of a river, now
haa a poat-office, some nulla,
Wt now for a short time course
lydt Biver, or Mud Crtdt aa >t
«ni then makes a bend to the
airain till we awive at Lyom,
lotCamndaigua Lake. Lyons,
>oaaeases in Mtuation, is becom-
le importance; ito population la
le ia already prosperous and ex-
l twenty-fijur miles fifom Albwiy.
tward oif it, the canal is earned
■tone aqueduct of three arches,
IHII CAVAI — monSSftVOT CREtK.
137
each of whicfc is thirty feet on the chord. Keeping now to
the southward of that stream, and of the turnpike road, it
rises in the next fourteen miles twenty-four feet, and reaches
the village of Pahnura. This is a place of verv considerable
business, the third in rank in the county, and increasing ra-
pidly. Several large stores and store-houses, for the canal
trade, are erected and erecting; and a regular line of two
canal packett has been running between Pittsford in Monroe
county, this place, and Utica. It has one Presbyterian, one
Methodist, and one Baptist chureh, an academy, two or three
school-houses, a number of excellent shops and stores, seve-
ral inns, and two tanneries, one of which is so extensive
as to employ fifty hands, with a number of other mechanical
esiablishments. It has three c; pacious basms on the canal,
one of wliich has a diy dock. Mud creek inins eastward, forty
rods north of Uie nuun street, which is one mile in length ;
and the Erie canal is between this street and the creek, ex-
cept that near the eastern border of the village it crosses this
street; at the western extremity, the canal comes within two
rods of it. There are many mUls closely bordering on, and
some within the village, which now contains a printing-office,
post-office, and about one thousand inhabitante. Palmyra is
thirteen miles north of Canandaigua, to which there is a
regulai- daily sU^e, and one also to the Sulphur Spnngt.
A mile and a quarter beyond Palmyra, the canal is again
carried across Mud creek on an aqueduct, when it strikes off
rather to the north-west, leaving entirely the valley of tlua
stream, and entering that of Thomaa Creek.- proceedmg
down this a short distance, it makes a remarkable bend, al-
most at right angles, to the south, in order to keep up the ievel
in passing Irondequot or Teoronio Creek. The embankment
constructed to carry the canal over this valley, is one of the
noblest and boldest specimens of engineering on the whole
extent of the work. It is raised to the immense height of
seventy-two feet above the creek, and that in a place where
the soil is composed of gravel and sand, very little adapted
to retain water : it was indeed necessary, for a great length
of time after its formation, to liave a watch regularly staUon.
ed, to give the first notice of any breach that might occur;
none however took place, and the work has now become
thoroughly consoUdated. The Irondequot is puied under-
H 3
n
il
loeka «^un the n»ee of a mile «« a T?2
half beyond, Ae feeder from
ength, enter* the main trunk.
, the nottfi, tin it reachea the
tmi«cto»«!dbythecelebwt.
remarkable and striking fe»r
)laced on a rift of aoiid rock,
the great fell, and i» seven
sneth. It conrista of eleven
,nte of circles, the crowns of
chord of the arch, and fifteen
the two exterior arches have
under them water^wiraes for
nine are fifty feet wide. The
r a circubff form, and terminate
hape of a half^ome, thus giv-
■hways : above theVater-table,
mice, which supports the tow-
.neatnuUng. Eve^onewho
be struck at once with its ex-
its excellence as an hydraulic
in the selection of Its site. ^
jtn by whom it was designed,
1 everywhere astiie ^strngtwh-
de and Erector in the construc-
fll better known, by those who
ed with Wm, as a man whoso
ive talent and the wisdom an*
Biodesty, the candour and the
.. that, unid all the dehcate and
^ profesnonal sUtion has ptaced
d wnfidence, and hu ever been
a as he must be of adatiwtwn.
mis CAiTAi — nocHisTia.
lal
RodMttr, which we now enter, is one of the most Awn**
•,„gto«ms .n the state, and contains the co„jjtybuild^
The popuUtion is about four thousand, and »»»«* "? »?^
many nSlls and manufwrtories. c«ny»nK.<»" » P^^^'Ji
ness; In the year 1812, this pUce contained but two or *»^
^d th^ veV ordinary, felling houses, and AouAwj
must admit thit its growth h» ^^en mpjdalmMt be^^^^
example even in our own country, of all others *«»"»"?•
plied Vith such cxamnles, yet, on « «'™^,?"'™™Sa2
L-at natural and artificial advantages, it wUl be 'n«n«f ™*
HMliester has by no means reached its maximum. . .W^nyof
EdSnp a4 veiy good, considering the »p,h^Mri*
which they were buflt, and the place Tius all the bustle of
business, that characterizes commercial towns.
Among the minerals discovered "/^ ^his place, in excMj
vati.; th% canrfs. may be noticed the jnowy gyp^ «J
fluate of lime, beautifiil specimens of which have been pro-
"""rfe distance from Rochester to Lockport, by the ««*
is sixty-tiiree mUes. to Buffalo n«"ety-«;'«"'. ^^ YSf!riZ
huKandfifty^^ven. to Albany **» hunnn though gpradual descent;
!e is said to be a jpood soil,
ilu^-ial origin. This remark-
as if intended by nature for
;ation. It is in fiwt a stupen-
ig gently on each side, and
le labour is requisite to make
ates. When the forests be-
cleared, the prospects and
o a traveller on this route to
irpass all others in sublimity
r. There is every reason to
Ige was the ancient boundary
with which it is covered was
( and the stones everywhere
asion and agitation produced
borders of the western rivers
mds or heaps of gravel, of a
ih for the protection of their
in a state that cannot be mis-
on the side towards the lake;
e been discovered. All rivers
ke from the south have their
peculiar way, from the preva-
-westerly winds. The points
iigh this ridge, correspond ex-
ntrance of the streams into the
'Oiul doubt, that Lake Ontario
sand years ago, receded from
KA» CAKAt— llWeKMHT.
Ht
this elevated ground ; and the cause of this relreat must be
ascribed to its haniig enlarged its former ouUet, or to ito
imprisoned waters, aided perhaps by an earthquake, loi-c.ng
a passage down the present bed of the St Lawrence ; as the
Hudson did at the Highlands, and the Mohawk at the Little
FaUs. On the south side of this ridge, in its vicinity, and in
aU directions through the country, the reraams of nuincrou*
ancient forts are to be seen, but on the north side, that ij,
on the side towards the lake, not a single one has been d*
covered, although the whole ground ha. been carejullv ex-
plored/ Considering the distance to »>«. "y •«y«"5,'?l*'^* ™
length, and eight in breadth, and that thebordcr of the lake
TtSe very p\L that would be «=lected for habitatoon. and
consequehtTy for work, of defence, on »'f^^^^'£'^
tie. it would afford for subrirtence, for safety, for aU domc^
tic accommodation, and mihtary purpoM. t and that on the
south «de of Lake Brie these ancient fortress, exist in
SS.er, there can be no doubt but that A'^/o*.
%mt erected when thi«^<^ ^«' **»« T**""? ^^ul
Lake Ontario, and consequentiy that theur ongm murt be
sought in a very remote age. c«*««-»«
TVelve milei beyond Rochester, on the canal, i. Spenaa^»
Bonn, to the right of which, ''^ont \.^om\t>,^a ^fil^
village of Parm^ on the Bidge «»d. Three "jJ" beyond,
i. dla, a little place which has sprung up with the canal ,
andfiWmile.fJiier,iJr«:Apor|N whero Jhe pa^^^*^"" *^
minated from the autumn of 1823 to that of 1824;. On tte
nidge road, • mile and a half to the right, >« Cfar*«« or
Mtt^Hllage, with a portH)ffice and about fifty htmse^ It
iVeSteenKby the turnpike fromRoche.ter,an^^
the lod i. generally of an exceUent quahty, "»d in a rap^
sUte of improve""**-, ^here are a great "«"*« of^
springs, but the manufiicture of sah has not yet been earned
toany considemble extent or nerfection, bemg sUH n it.
infancy, though pursued in a few caws to comudcrable ad-
""iff mde. west of Brockport i. BWfey. where the ctod
is carried over the east branch of Sandy Creek, on an em-
bankment «5venty-threefeet lii^h, a. it is by«nother em-
bankment across the west branch, nine miles farther on. In
thisneiglibourhood salt springs have b«?n discovered, «^
some ol' superior richness were opened m cutUng the calttl
m
w
143
cms CAHAl— lOCKrOBT.
where it crosses Sandy creek. A very krffe tooth, weighing
two pounds two ounces, was dug up from the bedol uiis
creek, said to measure thirteen inches m cu^umference.
The tooth is in a sound st-^te, and appears to have been one
of the molares or grinders of some very large quadruped,
perhaps a mammoth or elephant.
A mile beyond is the little village of Newport; and two
and a half miles to the right, on the Ridge road, the town ol
Oaina, where there are a post^ffice, several storey and a
number of houses, with considerable trade. Otter Creek, a
Btrcam rising in the high land to the south, and entering Oak
Orchard creek a UtUe dls ince above its mouth, is passed by
an embankment of fifty-five feet , and Clarfi^s Brnok, a mile
and a half beyond, by a long one, though of only fitteenfect
At Fish creek, three miles farther, there is anotlier embank-
ment, and a road aqueduct : indeed, tlu» level la a complete
■accession of these works, for the numerous streams which
ante in the high ridge or bluff to the south, aU force their
way through the alluvial elevation which we have mentaoned,
leaving deep but narrow ravines, ofR- which the canal must
be earned. Oak Orchard Creek, across which it no\v passe^
u one of the hu^est. rising forty miles in the interior, and
near this spot it falls thirty feet? Sidgway is seated on A,
four miles below. Where the canal passes its western branch,
ia the little village of Middleport, which has sprung up with
its and after crossing Johnson's and Etghtem-miU Lreeiu,
we reach Loekport, sixty-three miles from Rochester.
At present, this is the wertem limit of navigation of the
canal. Its course here bends to the south, an
si
e(
tl
b
ai
SI
iCKrOXT.
eery large tooth, v.'cia[hing
f up from the bed oT this
inches in circumference.
appears to have been one
me very large quadruped,
tage of Newport ; and two
le Ridge road, the town of
ffice, several stores, and a
able trade. Olttr Creek, a
he south, and entering Oak
ove its mouth, is passed by
) and Clart^t Brook, a mile
though of only fifteen feet,
r, there is another embank-
ied, this level is a complete
\e numerous streams which
to the south, all force their
I which we have mentioned,
, ow which the canal mart
across which it now passes,
f miles in the interior, and
t ? Sidgway is seated on it,
lal passes its western branch,
, wnich has sprung up with
r and Eighteen-mUe Creeki,
nilcs from Rochester,
m limit of navigation of the
I the south, and, riang wxty-
ridge, along which it jjasses^
nta creek. The elevation of
the most interesting features
of the first magnitude, and
in the world. Seated on the
ipice seventy-six feet high,
I basin, with banks on each
a hundred feet, are five dou-
most perfect manner. These
)ne line of boata may be de-
g, at the same time 5 and it is
nesee level, extending east-
sixty-five miles in length ; or
XKIt cm*!— T07I1»1WA«TA.
143
the two levels united at Lockport embrace an extent of
ninetv-six miles, f'om Lake Erie to the east of Genesee nver.
Thcri was another object, however, in the peculiar constnic-
tion of this system ot*^ locks : it was important to feed the
Genesee level entirely from above, without usmgf the water
of that river, as this could not be done but at the risk of great
iniury to the numerous mills and hydraulic works at Uochcs-
ter. To accomplish this object, the constnjction ot tiiese
double combined locks was resorted to; and while thefacUity
of passage is greatly improved, they wiU be found, when
(udedby a fi.ll of an inch per mile m the level, fully to an-
swer the great purpose of supply, and nreservc the water-
power of the Genesee entirely 'miniured. _^
The village of Loehport itself should not be passed alto-
ffether without remark. In May, 1831, it contamed but two
buildings; and it has now six hundred, with a post-office, a
printing-office, a weekly ncws-paper, and two churches. It
will doubtiess be tiie seat of extensive manufacturing esta-
blishments, for which it has great advantages; and tins, add-
ed to its situation on the canal at so impoitant a point, must
render its future increase, if possible, even more rapid than
it has already been.
The seven miles from Lockport to the Tonnewanta, is one
of the most difficult passer, of the canal: it is through the
mountain ridge, a deep cutting, averagmg twenty teet in
depth, and nearly three miles of it are through tiie solid
rock; it is yet incomplete, but the work has been pursued
with vigour, and it is expected that it wdl be finished duniig
*' Entering tlTronnewania Creek, its channel forms the canal
for twelve miles, and along its margin a towing-path has been
constructed, it is Uue that tiie universal experience of fo-
reijrn countries is decidedly against usin^ the channels of
nat-iral streams, as any part of the route ot canal navigation ;
and the numerous attempts which have been made, and are
even in a few instances still making, to convert nvers into
slack-water navigation, have in our own country been attend-
ed witii such signal disadvantage, expense, and even ruin,
that tiie correctness of those opinions has been fully corro-
borated. But tiie peculiar fitness of tiiis stream makes «t
an exception to these rules. Its waters are not liable to
sudden nses bv freshets its fall is but one mch m a mile, and
m<:
14*
iBii cxukv—ntACK ioe«.
the dam erected .cto- iu mouth givei to that part of it which
U u2d muchmore the cha«cter of a long nairow bay. or
rSfiSii water^ou«e. than a natx«^- •f '"^^ J«£
.kioK at the ooint where iU watera are firat uaea lor xne
SS^'aU ^\^ZL freriieU and tLoo^ nuy be turned
dnvntheOakOr. ird creek into Uke Ontario. .
ThtlSlaL l.e Tonnewant. >. four feet .« mche
K!^ nSied Jnrtbt ow the mouth of Ellicott'i creek , and
SSii&k%ichcolect.withNia««rWeratthi.pU^^^
1?,^ here the canal is a» yet unfiniahed, it \» however under
JXcrA^woik ra^ly «lvanc|ng lU courj* «.k,ng
toe .ho?e of the Niagara iSver, for eight mdea, <« tj« !«^<^^
on Lake Erie, whicfi i. now conatructing near the vd^ «
Black Roek. The whole of thi» work la not yet fin»bed ;
hu? it hi hTiuch a state of forwardne«h aa to render it. com-
Son bJXe iJme of finishing the other works, certain.
S-heTlooi-lock in nearly done, and the dam connecting
lie mSoTe with SgJw bla^d i. «iaed sufficicnUy above
£ea"rfwe of the wat^o prevent it from pa>».i.gover. The
•mbankment on Squaw Island wa. finished a ye«- »E«J !"«
lijhtfe" high, tSe breadth at its baac ia more than thirty
'•'^S5.oi^,7wtcKe canal may be properly aaid to
termiMte^a connected with Buflalo ci-eek byaa^ortcut.
SkhTne«ty completed. A violent controversy haa amen
between the inhabitants of Black Hock and U.one o« Buffalo.
tSZe Uie location of the harbour. The leaaona which
S^SKmmSer. have assigned for the aelecUon tliey
t"a^ drbdess strong, and it would be J>«=«»";P*"~
Ho^k hke this to appe^ for one '«»'»«"» ^"'Zt Buffi
ritv Many will probably continue to thiidi that Buttalo
would have aHbnled a better situation , but when we con-
loder witii how much skill the rest of the work has been
SSgn^ and ^mpleted. we should not doubt that Uus part
of it waa determined on with equal prudence.
° Such is the course ami the termination ot tlu. great w^,
» noble monument of the time, m ^.^«^hwe hve. In that
fature history, which glancing over the "f «™ f ^^tT*
tion when the views of partial pohcy shaU be forgotten,
Sd'the object^ of temporiry aggrandiwment have become
?^_!-c— „. r.*rh.fta the Daamre of the Sunplon and the
^^"S'^wrt'^^Wthe two nobL work, of
JICK ROCK.
gives to that part of it whicli
er of • long nurow bay, or
• mtund stream ( beBdes
patera are first used for the
;U and floods may be turned
to Lake Ontario. .
ranto is four feet six mches
uth of Ellicott's creek « and
ith Niagara river at this place,
tfinishedt it is however under
dvancing. ItM course is along
X eight miles, to the harbour
nstructing near the vdlasre ot
lis work IS not yet finished;
ardness, as to render ito com-
ng the other works, certain,
e; and the dam connecting
md is raised sufficicnUy above
'ent it from passing over. The
was finished a year ago ; it w
It its base is more than thirty
:anal may be properly said to
Buflalo ci-eek by a short cut,
. violent conUovcrsy has arisen
ick Rock and tliose o«" Buffalo,
hiirbour. The reasons whicU
assigned for the selection tliey
d it would be presumptuous in
one moment from such autlio-
ontinue to think that Buffalo
• situation ! but when wc con-
Llie rest of the work has been
should not doubt that this part
equal prudence,
termination of tliis great work,
ics in which we live. In that
g over the actions of every na-
■Bal policy shall be forgotten,
r aggrandisement have become
mage of the Simpton and the
I as the two nobust works of
■OCIISSTIH TO tlWlSTOWH. »*•
?*^ ;»fim < I'i.e one. while we confess its uUlity, while
ot nations, guioeu uy iiy rnuntrvs anx ous to com*
to promote the prospenty of the^c^m^^^ _^.^^^
municate Uie blessings which » J^™^ *i"'. .^ ^^ e^ery
lutions.
Buffalo is at present a P'*'^^^ •^.^Vu^^V^e we^e to recom-
erting, visiting "* ^^'T^^^^ water themselves, and
146
TVICAKOIU I!IDUM« — ItWIiTOWIT.
■ill
in fine nrognccU. From Bochcrtcr to Lcwiitown w u di*
tance of ci|flity milei, which in punted in one day, the rood
leadinir through Pitrma, Clarknon, Gaines, Hartknd, uid
several other village*.
About two and a half mile* before we reach Lewwtown,
u a iettlement of the TuMxtrora Indians, on a tract of land
given them by the Senecan many yean since, wliich ii Uiree
mile* long and one mile hnvkd. Thi* tribe cime from North
Carolina, about the year 1712, and joined thi; confederacy of
the Five Nation^ theniBelvea making the aixth. They iitill
have an interest in a very large tract of land in North < iiroUna,
which will not be extinct before the year 1911. 'I' hold
iJto, in thia »tate, four thousand three hundred and iity-
eight »ct«i of land, ceded to them by the Holland Land
Company. As a nation or tribe, they arc rich, und many of
them as mdividual*. They liave among them a Prcsbyttrian
clergyman, and a young woman who keeps an English school.
They had a meetmg-housc, which was burnt during the late
war, December 19, 1813, but it is now rebuilt
This tribe, like all the otlur Indian settlements in the xtate,
is divided into two parties, the Christian and tlie Pagan ; thi;
former submit in a great degree to the usages and many of
the customs of the whites, but the latter stdl glory in nre-
serving the habiU and nmni\ers of their ancestors. When
tliey wisli to sell any of their land, a deputation of the chicts
visits tlie governor, a kind of council is held, tlie belU of
wnmpum arc given, and the orators of the party make their
speeches. They affect to despise those who employ tlicir
time in making basketti, and support themselves, though thi*
is now almost impracticable, by hunting, where any wild
beasto yet linger in tlie forests, not entirely driven awav by
tlic encroachments of civilization. The Pagan party of tlie
'I'uscaroras has within a few years left this village, removed
to the shores of Grand river in Upper Canada, and settled
among the Moliawks.
Lewutown itself is eligibly situated at the foot of the moun-
tainridge,on the east bank of the Niagara River, twenty nwvea
and a half miles below Buffalo, (twenty-nine and a half, by
the Falls), seven north of Fort Niagara, twenty west of Lock-
port, and three hundred and fourteen nearly west from Al-
bany. This villi^e sUnds nearly opposite to ftueenston in
Canada, at the head of navigation of Magara river, and at tlie
— LKWHTOWIf.
iter to Lcwiitown in u di!>
i.iwc(l ii> one day, the road
til, Gaines, Hartland, uid
fore we reach Lewwtown,
Indlaru, on a tiiwt of land
yean »ince, wliich it tliree
riiis tribe came from Nortli
d joined the confederacy of
iking the sixth. They »till
ct of land in North r arolina,
the year 1911. 'I'! hold
three hundred ami nty-
hem by the Holland Land
they are rich, und many of
among them a Presbyterian
rho keeps an li'ngliiih school,
h was burnt during the laic
is now rebuilt.
dian settlements in the state,
hristiun and tlie Pagan : the
to the usages and many uf
the latter stdl glory in nre-
I of their ancestors. When
id, a deputation of the chiefs
:ouncil is held, tlie belts of
tors of the party make their
lise those who employ tJieir
port themselves, though thi*
y hunting, where any wild
not entirely driven away by
n. The Pagan party of tlie
urs left this village, removed
I Upper Canada, and settled
latcd at the foot of the moun-
: Niagara Hiver, twenty-seven
, (twenty-nine and a half, by
liagara, twenty west of Lock-
lurtcen nearly west from Ai-
rly oppoMte to Queenston in
m of Niagara river, and at die
tktt* Of iHAo*m*.
mr
,„otof the portage around the Pulls. " C""?'*** "f '''°"*
hSawe^UnSs, b.V,des stores. .h..ps. a ch.u-eh. »"'»»*«
Htl »*one Siool-house. It is a place of bu..ne«. "« tho
cuZm-house for the Nlugura ^'"M ^rttriport 5f
P-'TheTaU; irs^n mill, above Lewistown. from which
yoTpr^^e^l «p t^'V-^Th'Twtn'a^w^Xt^fco^tin^S
tion, look forward to tKe peno.' *>'e" the; ^^t rc^K^ oarr
which unreads across the mouth of l^ke ^^rje snau "=
iU mishtytee, •h'f™"' "'"'J^T S e™; li»tJ«
m
148
FAILS UF NIlGAnA.
Lo ! where it conieg like an eternity,
As if to sweep down all thinfifs in its track!
Charming the eye witli cU^ad— a matchles:* cuUiract ,
Horribly beautiful ! but on the verge.
From Mde to side, beneath the glittering morn.
An iris sits, amidst the infernal surge.
Like Hope upon a death-bed, and unworn
Its steady dyes, while all aroimd is torn
By the distracted waters, bears serene
Its brilliant hues, with all their beams unshoni.
Resembling, 'mid the torture of the scene,
Love watching Mbdness with unalterable mien.
A scene like this is not to be described— it is only to be
feH. As it stands alone in the history of nature, with nothmg
to equal or resemble it, so, while we rest upon its verge,
will the breast glow with sensations before unknown, and
swell with emotions before unfelt. We gaze with mute
wonder on the scene before us, and forgfet, in the contem-
plation of nature's mi^fhty works, the world that is around
us, and die busy insignificance of man.
The cataract of Nugara is twenty-two miles below Lake
Erie, and fourteen miles above Lake Ontario. It is formed
by a body of limestone, which crosses the river in an irregu-
lar shape, about fourteen hundred yards in length. This
ridge is divided into three parts :— the American fall, three
hundred and eighty yards long; Goat Island, three hundred
and thirty yards across 5 and the Horse-Shoe fall, seven hun-
dred yards. The perpendicular height of the American fall
is one hundred and sixty-four feet ; tliat of the Horsc-Shoe,
one hundred and fifty-one. The Table Rock is a_ platform
of considerable extent, on the western shore: it projecte over
the cavern below the cataract, and runs up to the side of
the precipice, to which you can approach so new as to wash
your hands in the water a few feet above it. 11 is nearly on
a level with the top of the mass of water, immediately above
♦i»e great pitch. It is supposed to be a part of the very ledge
over which the water is precipitated, but which is worn down
a number nffeet below its original level.
The Table Rock is chequered witli a variety of seams and
fisiuKi) some of them wide enough to admit a man's hand.
hi
w
w
ol
is
U
liGABA.
ternity,
s in its track!
— a matchless cutiiraci j
le verge,
e glittering morn,
i\ surge,
, and unworn
ind is torn
iTs serene
ir beams unshorn,
of the scene,
unalterable mien.
e described— it b only to be
istory of nature, with nothing
lile we rest upon its verge,
lations before unknown, and
ifelt. We gaze with mute
i, and forged in the contem-
rks, the world that is around
of man.
wenty-two miles below Lake
Lake Ontario. It is formed
crosses the river in an irregu-
dred yards in length. This
ts : — the American fall, three
; Goat Island, three hundred
e Horse-Shoe fall, seven hun-
w height of the American fall
eet ; tliat of the Horse-Shoe,
he Table Rock is a platform
western shore; it projecte over
, and runs up to tlie side of
n approach so near as to wash
feet above it. It is nearly on
IS of water, immediately above
to be a part of the very ledge
tated, but wliich is worn down
;inal level.
ed with a variety of seams and
lough to admit a man's hand.
FAILS Of KIAOXBA.
149
innumerable names and initials of visitors are inscribed on it,
™ITorthen; with the dates of their visits : two were to be
iti edee. it has been ascertamed to be one nuntlrea ana
event^ wo feet high. It requii-es some courage to venture
to the marein. and look down into the abyss beneath.
%S GoSnd also, it is seen ♦« .^f /Jvan^ge Th«
beautiful little islet, placed in the m.dst of the toirent, rtw
Sctured, was i^nt from the American side by some no-
?ent coSion of nature , as the strata of the rocks, the soil
and AeT^wSi of timber, correspond with those upon toe
Sn Unf^ Alittie island is separated from its eastern «de.
by * sS channel of water pacing through. ''"* forming M
it were a distinct cascade. This Tias been called Monttno-
ir.^ Fall in allusion to the celebrated cataract near Quebec.
Thl m'Jn boS of ^at«' « ^««* "^ *l?" island, where the
edie hl^ been worn i.ito an in-egular shape by the force rf
thf later, from which circumstance it has acquired the name
"e:^y\"ir« 'affirm th^itw";^ ^""S = ^^SSth^
'^^ Vir^ ^ri:5^^rsj^T;™t"d?e^
tS^tteheet 5 witer^^ling over it is supposed to be at
Kt ten feet dicker than the%ther fall. Mr. Forsyth, who
least t«." '^^^ ""„ tj. - -_ot for more than forty years, says,
St'Sin hTsCcoUecfithe centre of tMs ftfi L^ceded
tJr ♦!„ V« fifti.i»n Yards s and, as some mteUigent travellcM
^"^ w^^31ufewto^e stones in front of the hote^
nf vewThow much this centre recedes annually.
^K^«ortion of the cataract which lies east of the island.
is3K?lmVriSn^XsiAto.«rfaU. Tlielastn^e
b dSved from » KtOement on tbe «Mtom store, which.
npiwii II 11.11^1 ij
ISO IkLhi OF SUBAIU
though never much fortified, has long been known as Fort
Tlie chasm below the falls is two hundred feet deep, and
not half a mile wide; further down, it becomes still narrower.
The sound of the fall is audible at v-arious distances, accord-
ing to the direction of the wind, and state of tlie atmosphere;
it IS frequently heard at York, fifty miles distant, and the
cloud of vapour has been seen as far as seventy miles. The
quantity of water discharged in an hour has been computed
at one hundred andtwomUUons, ninety-three thousand, seven
hundred and fifty tons.
Great diversity of opinion has existed as to the proper way
of accenting and pronouncing the word Niagara; and custom
at length seems to have established it in a manner different
from Siat adopted by the aborigines. " I have been some-
times asked," says Cohmel Timothy Pickering, "what was
the Indian pronunciation. By the eastern tnhes, it was
M-av-gau^aw, or rattier Ne-og-au-roh ,• the second syllable
was short, with the accent upon it ; the sound of the last syl-
lable was indefinite, much as we pronounre the last •»yllable
of the woi-d America. I account for tho sound of i as e in Nia-
gara, and the broad sound of a, firom its having been vmtten
by the Low Dutch of Albany and the French in Canada. In
\mting the Indian names in my treaty of 1794, I took some
puns to get their Indian sounds, and to express these by
Such a combination of letters as would have been given to
them had the names been EngUsh : Kon-on-dai-gua, for in-
stance, the place where the treaty was held ; the accent be-
ing on the syllable dai. The Scnecas called the falls or river,
vat Ne-og-au-roh, but Ne-mh-gaw/ the second syllable auh
gutturalfy, with the accent upon it, and the last syllable long."
The grandeur of the cataract seems to have imparted to it
a. sanctity among the Indian nations, which is the more sur-
prising, as their religious rites were so httle marked by this
lynd of superstition. They were in the habit of offering
aftcrifices to it »b a god, until the CathoUc priests visited their
country.
Though of course the Falls are the great object of interest
to a traveller, visiting Niagara, there are yet otiier scenes ui
the neighbourhood, which will claim and receive much ot
Ml attention. The shores of the river, especially the eastern
ope, were the theatre erf mwy gallaat exploiti in tne tart
TORT CRISi
1»
s long been known as Fort
;wo hundred feet deep, and
'n, it becomes still narrower,
at \-ariou8 distances, accord-
and state of tlie atmosphere;
fifty miles distant, and the
IS far as seventy miles. The
an hour has been computed
ninety-three thousand, seven
existed as to the proper way
ie word Niagara; and custom
ihed it in a manner different
fines. " I have been some-
iiothy Pickering, "what was
r the eastern tribes, it was
•ttu-roh s the second syllable
I it ; the sound of the last syl-
■e pronounce the last -"vllable
t for tho sound of t as e in Nia-
from its having been written
nd the French in Canada. In
r treaty of 1794, I took some
ids, and to express these by
18 would have been given to
llish: J^n-on-dai-gtm, for in-
:aty was held ; the accent be-
enecas called the falls or river,
fflW; the second syllable mth
n it, and the last syllable long."
t seems to have imparted to it
itions, which is the more sur-
were so httle marked by this
were in the habit of offering
ke CaUiolic priests visited their
are the great object of interest
there are yet other scenes in
II claim and receive much of
he river, especially the eastern
ny gaUaat explmts in the last
V ir between the United States and Great Britain ; and Eric,
IvrreTes^ffi^ the^ in«>»d8 of ferocious warfare ? Who
U^t^monthe silent walls of the fortresses around, and
TeU ^ tElort atSrhas passed, since the thunder of
dStion was heard upon their rampar^ and each emb^-
sure Doured out U\e torrent of war ? Tne place nas aireao)
bTcZecS^-l; we a»-dv seek out withanx.e^ the ^^^^^
riutino-uished bv some mcident of more than oroinary gai
fjnt™^ we muse upon the different events, as on scenes
SS h^ve lonJpXd away, on which history has set her
er aSeel Khere is a nameless and indescribable plea-
sure in Sg aU that story or tradition has preserved ot the
""XIX" t S't'LTtS'in Upper Canada, twenty-one miles
ubf^ tfe Fa^L. Tthe pointTf land formed.by tfie termma-
?inn of Lake Erie ana its junction with Niagara nver. It
standi ol^ound elevated about fifteen feet above the water,
l^for to the war, it was but a sUght fmlificaUon, and m
rhTflnchMtinff projcress of it, it was alternately possessed by
hotlfSBW.1813. ^r the capture of Fort George,
KasXndonedby the British, and occupied by a corps
deSd for that purpose from General Dearborn's army.
bS the close of 5»e^me campaign, it was «-o«=cup.ed by
the Sh. On the ■'d of July. 1814, it surrendered without
SucS Stanch to ». lend Brown's army, as soon ahnost as
reftoded from the other shore, some of them «bove and
others below the fort. General Drummond. who then com-
mSedSritish forces in this district, aware of its impor-
manaea tne nriv possession, and commenced a
Sar'^lgT On Srm^ht ^f the 15th of A«gust,^h^
rSSe effort to car^ it by storm, but was g8U«nt»y «-
mS He had dividedliis foke into ^'^J^^^'^!.^}^}^
LlV^ to attack the fortress at the same instant, in different
SoiS*?thSt lid byColonel Fischer, the centre by Co-
Ce?D.2^«S. and tL left by Colonel Scott. The mght
w« dSkS "««v. but the Am?nc«i sentmeb were «tert
152
FOBT XUI*
and on the watch. With stenlthy pace, the ^virion under
pther Svanced to the battery on the H^ht. t^^' ^j-'X
ladder, prepared, their bayonets fi«* »"*\„»"^" Vh^n S
hopes «* immediate success, but. 't *« jno^^^t ^j*^
seemed most probable, with cool and dehbenite courage, our
b^e t.^ps.\eaded'by the I?"*"* ^ood. opene^upw^
them a 8U^^}Z^i^£^
nel Fischer amun led Ws troops to the onset ; ««««.*'?'* *V2^
to get poUession of the battery, and feehng the dea^y effccts
of the incessant showers of grape^ot which wet« thrown
unon hi^ hTdetermined asU next effort to pass the point
"FXe Ztdi by wading breastnleep into the Ue, to which
Se works^reopen. In this attempt he was abo unsuc-
ceS neariy two hundred of hi. men being e.Uier kdled
or drowned, and the remainder precip Utely fidhng b*ck.
I^WM in vain to continue the dertructive and unwccessfid
roXt^^ Without waiting to know with what resuh hi. cd-
Sr. on the centre «.3 left had nade their W^^'^r^
taAu he retreated precipitotely to hi. camp, with the small
I^SSort onhTcolumn he'^had 1^ on. but a few hour, bcfiw,
ill all the confidence of victory. _„..v-»m.
In the meiuiwhUe. a brilliant fire of cannon and musketry
ligSedu?tfre«^.*on the right, but Colonels Drummond
"fd Scott were not more fortunate than their compamon.
TwiM did they lead up their troops to the a88aul^ and m
oft^^w^ thJy driveS back. At length, luviny moved
S^clitci; covered by the darkn«is of the mght, and
SThW cloud of «noke w'hich ~>»«^.ft«» ^i,*^" v*^
mMkedy. and envetoped the wrrounduig objerts, they re-
wXdAe chanre. re^acended the ladders, and, wiA theur
SS^b wiS^?^ "pears. feU upon our gallant artillenst^
S^5r^t.rfCrp^WilliiP«KlIieuten«*.M'^
nwurh and Watmough, with their biave men, were foratime
S^£^ mmTofthem having received "evere ami mortal
wS oTtastion was lost, md lieutenant M^Donough.
kSn^everelv wounded, demanded quarter, which was re-
£f 5 cSUDrumSond himself.^ The lieutenant, then
Sg a »Swl»pilw, nobly drfendcd binudf, until 1>« was
w
an.
thy pace, the Vision under
r on the ritfht, their scaling-
> fixed, and sangwne in the
ut, at the moment when it
>1 and deliberate couraee, our
nllantWood, opened upon
fire. For a short time, they
ut it was only for a ahoit tinw;
wn into corauaion, and forced
• re-organized hi» force, Colo-
to the onset ; again were ftey
er. Convinced of his inabihty
and feeling the deadly effecU
ape-shot which were dirown
s next effort to pass the pmnt
t-deep into the lake, to which
attempt he was also unsuc-
• his men being either killed
er precipiUtely falling back.
i destructive and unsucceasnu
mow with wluit result his col-
had made their respective at-
sly to his camp, with the small
led on, but a tew hours before,
t fire of cannon and musketry
^t; but Colonels Drummond
rtunate than their companion,
troops to the assault, and as
t. At length, having moved
the darkness of the night, and
ich rolled firom our cannon and
aunoun^g objects, they re-
ed the laddm, and, with their
eD upon our gallant artillerists.
I^illiams and ueutenants M'Do-
heir brave men, were for a time
ing received severe and mortal
It, and lieutenant ITDonou^
manded quarter, which was re-
himself. The lieutenant, then
iefended binudf* until be was
Ip»T Mil. ***
iUt down with a pistol by the monster who had rcfoscd him
luarter. and who often reiterated the order. Give the
, amed Yankees no quarter!" This officer. who«> ^^very.
, • iThad been tempered with mercy, would Ivave entiUed ^m
the admi«tion if every «,ldier-this h-'fened murde^r
soon met his fate. He was shot tlirough the breast, while
repeating the order to " give no quarter!
The battle now raged with increased fury , after a dcsne-
rate conflict, the bastion was at last recovered, .^.ul both Uie
ronimanding officers having fallen, the Bntish fouml that it
w^rvainfonger to contend, drewoff their forces from the
assault, and retSsated to their camp. Two hundred and twcn-
tTtwo men were left dead upon the field, and two hundred
moriT suppwied to have%een kiUed in the woods, or
yXuownX Niagara. The whole lo^ of «,e BM. J. by
their own account, exceeded nine hundred? while that of our
txoops was only eiglityfour. ^„_„
DUppointed in his design of taking Fort Ene by storm.
Generjd Drummond continued to prosecute the sieee with
more caution. In a month, he ha.1 completed an advanced
line of batteries, entrenchments and block-houscs, reaching
frmtheNiapark round to the lake, «» the distance rf five
hundred yarS. from the fort. His camp was two miles in the
rear of these works, so that his reser^-e w^.^"* »*^*'=,'»"8S
of the fire from tlie fort, while the batteries thus pUnted
could play upon it with effect, and a new one was just ready
'°To Jrevent this. General Brown, who had now taken com-
mand of the post, performed one of the most gallant exploits
wSadorno^aiSials. About two o'clock in the aft«^oon
of the mil of September, the troops were led out from the
fort in two divisions, and after a severe conflict, 'n which the
Kallant ColoneU Wood and Gibson feU fighting at the head
of their columns, they succeeded in stormir« three of the
1 enemy's batteries, two block-houses, ai.d the >nterven.ng
' line of entrenchments, spiked the cannon, and blew up one
majraaine. The object of the sortie being accomplished, the
whole body returned to the fort, brineingf with Uiem three
hundred aVid eighty prisoners, and Wing de?t?»y'=d the
fruits of forty-seven days' labour. From tiie spirited resist-
ance of the enemy, the loss «istoined by the assa.lai>ts wx^
' as may be supposed, severe. The official report of the British
!^>A'AL'.'J8 '
154
cBirnwA.
commander acknowledged the loss of six hundred and nine
men, one hundred andfifteen of whom were killed, one hundred
and seventy-eight wounded, and three hundred and sixteen
prisoners. The enemy claimed a victory i but their retreat,
which took place a few days afterwards, palpably contodict-
ed this pretension. At the close of the campaign, the tort
>va8 dismantled ; Genei-al Brown crossed the nver, and went
into winter quarters. .. , , j »u«
The village at Fort Erie is a pleasant httle place, and tne
harbour is a good one. During the war, of course much
property was destroyed in and around it. The march of an
army, even of defenders, and much more of invaders, is ge-
nemlly tracked with desolation? and amidst the mvasions and
retreats, the marches and countermarches, the encampments,
sieares and battle^ which diversified the war on the Niagiu*
frontier, it wm scarcely possible that the inhabitonts should
not suffer in their habitations and property. Of these sutter-
ings, the village of Fort Erie had its share.
From Fort Erie, the road courses along the shore ot the
Niauara ; and just before we reach the Falls, Chippewa
Cretk crosses our path. The country over which we pass
is level, and the road is nearly straight, running along the
bank, wWch is agreeably but not loftily elevated above the
water : the view is delightful. The Chippewa, having pass-
ed over a plain of forty miles, and through a number ot
swamps and strata of discolouring earth, is a sluggish dariK
water, not very fit for culinary purposes, or even for washing;
and as it meeU the clear rapid stream of the Niagara, instead
of intermixing with it, it passes along near the shore, forming
a ve*y visible contrast. It can be traced all the way down
to the Falls. . . . ^». -j r n -
The village of Chippewa is situated on both sides of tie
creek, close to iU entrance into the river. The iaT^d rai-nage
from Queenston ends at this place, and goods are transported
hence in boats to Fort Erie. Here are a tort and barracks
tor the troops. In the course of the late war, it vi^ alter-
natcly the place of encampment of both armies. The plain
south of the creek was also the ground of the celebrated
battle fought Jidy 5th, 1814, between Genera! Riall's army
and the American forces commanded by General Brown, who
was assisted by Generab Scott, Uipley and Porter.
JCCtl
ateli
eve
the
up
tha
my
the
An
gai
for
wl
an
.fHllllliljyJllll'l
i i i i»| i m) ! ii ii i| w lil ! ,liH. ' .M.^
loss of SIX hundred and nine
vhom were killed, one hundred
id three hundred and sixteen
1 a victory i but their retreat,
terwards, palpably contradict-
ose of the camjiaigpi, the fort
rn crossed the river, and went
I pleasant little place, and the
ing the war, of course much
I around it. The march of an
nuch more of invaders, is ge-
i; and amidst the invaaonsand
itermaiches, the encampments,
rsified the war on the Niagwa
Ijle that the inhabitants should
Bind property. Of these suflTer-
had its share.
courses along the shore of the
e reach the Falls, Chippewa
e country over which we pass
fly straight, running along the
t not loftily elevated above the
The Chippewa, having pass-
es, and through a number of
uring earth, is a sluggish dark
: purposes, or even for waslung;
d stream of the Niagara, instead
es along near the shore, forming
*n be traced all the way down
is situated on both mdes of tV.e
nto the river. The iuT^d rsi-riage
alace, and goods are transported
!. Here are a fort and barracks
se of the late war, it was alter-
lent of both armies. The plwn
» the ground of the calebrated
, between General Riall's army
imanded by General Brown, who
ott, liipley and Porter.
caippiwA. iSS
In this battle, the forces on ca n side were equal. The
iittack was commenced by a division of tlie Mritish, led on
by General Uiall. General Porter, with a column of the
American army, met, attacked and after a short but severe
contest, drove the enemy's right before him. His route to
Chippewa was intercepted by the whole British column ar-
rayed In order of battle, and a^nst tliis powerful force the
voluntecre desperately maintained their pfround, until they
were overpowered by tlie superiority of discipline and num-
bers.
As soon as the firing became regulai and heavy, between
tlie volunteei-s and the enemy. General Brown, rightly coii-
iccturing that all the British regulars were engaged, immedi-
ately ordered Scott's brigade and Towson's artillerjr, to ad-
vance and draw them into action on the plains of Chippewa.
General Scott had no sooner crossed tiie bridge over Sti-eet's
cinek, than he encountered, and gave battie to the enemy.
Captain Tlwsou commenced his fire before the infant'.y bat-
talions wei-e in battle array, and upon tlieir being formed,
took post on the river, with three pieces, in front of tiie ex-
treme right, and thence> played upon the British batteries.
The conflict now raged with extreme violence, and great
gallantry was displayed on both sides; but the ardour with
which tiie American troops, especially tlie brigade under
General Scott, pressed forward, was resistless ; repulsed at
every point, thwarted in every effort, the enemy began at
length gi-adually to retire, until they reached die sloping
ground in the vicinity of Chippewa, where, being hard press-
ed by tiie victors, their retreat was changed into a rapid and
disorderly flight. The advance of the Americans waa how-
ever checked by the batteries at Chippewa, behind which
the British troops had rallied. General Brown now ordered
up the ailillciy, with a view to force tiie works ; but finding
that the day was nearly spent, and the batteries of tiie ene-
my strongly fortified, he witiidrew his forces, and retired to
the cainp. This victory established the reputation of the
American troops, and the character of the commanders en-
gaged ; raised the confidence of the nation in its capacity
for defence ; and taught tiie enemy a useful lesson, from
which we cannot doubt they subsequently profited.
Proceeding along the western shore of the river, we reach
another battle-ground, that of Bri<^ew^ ^e**
in the evennig, when 2!"l!!L.!tive decided to storm the
enemy's artillery *«,"»«»* *^!^^*JtoSia. was ordered
battenr. Colonel Miller, the hero « ^a*^?^ ^^„„on with
on tl.U enterprise , he »PP™«f '»«i Sn a l^w pace, of the
. quick rt*p. and deUver<^ »».» J^^ ^^^^ '^^^^ P,^„dH. and
enemy's Une , who, '^t«yf„Xblttom «<"«»« '""' ""'^ "''*"■
^vigorous charge, retired totheb^mo^t. ^^. ^^^^
doned his cannon. Only one p.e«e was bro g^ ^^^ ^
«^'^' ?' rr\h V wT« foiTowerE^^
rSJibaro^o^mj- -Pl°?«^ - '•^'^"""^ ^'
iriso^^rs J bringing ori' the w««d^d. ^^^,^„^„,.Generul
^ The cessation ho^^'f" J^*°2l "th a reinforcement.
Drummond «"ved 't Ji«jnten^U w,tn^ ^ ^^,^ ^j
The enemy renewed the i«Uon,wnue^ wiunded, but
busily employed m <='«'»^K.**^ftu*'!Sy. and after a close
the gallant Americans fo™*=° *'VifSV were repulsed.
engS^ment of ^/-J ^iX remJlS TZ^^f n«t^aU the
The army now effected ^"^ J^"^' , it beintr nearly twelve
rs*'i»^^^ "^^ •^■■' "*•' "" *■""
- *
nnw
mipniaiiflii j u
ATK«>
This action commenced »
ening of the 25th July W}*.
nder General Scott, and the
J Drummond. Tlie enemy
cir force in the district, and
which had been detached
L just landed firom Kingston,
nefi were within twenty yard,
termingled, that often an ofti-
atoon< „ . ,.i,„^v
ir contested until nine o'clock
1 Brown, perceiving that xjie
tructive, decided to storm the
lero of Magagua, was ordered
shed the enemy's cannon witli
g fire within a few paces ot tlic
iving two or three roundH, and
hel^ttomofthehilUndaban-
e piece was brought ott the
5 enemy now gave way and re-
ared for some distance, though
iraa employed in securing the
le wounded. ^ ,
» short, as Lieutenant-General
interval with a reinforcement,
ion, while our troops were thus
the ground of wounded, but
1 with alacrity, and after a close
tte. the enemy were repulsed,
removal of nearly if not aU the
,e JUuud.it being nearly. twelve
cd to their encampment m eood
r to the want of horees, and the
fon themselves, our t^oP". ''^[f
d the artillery which thev had so
the more to be regretted, as the
iich they also assumed in other
when their defeat was apparent
rilUant dUpUy of the courage and
wps. and one which wiU not be
of Uie enemy embraced severaJ
SCBNIHO smiHO— WBintPOOt.
lar
hnnlinT^Xknown before the mill was erected, and now
Sf vfcw It "m^t. a vapour of some bituminous or cpm-
bSk q^lity" A r'^'^Wy.ed near the wjerc^^^^^
aflame which buniso^^^^^^^^
perceptible mjie 'l«y»^^«' *^j ^y those who have made
rvtrimems Si wUl produ« sucJi a degree of heat a. to
«S^ wSplaceSoverFt in a suitable vessel, to emit steam.
""J^^eejTng" along the shore of the Niagara Iliver, to
oSston fevcn miles below, we find it walled on each
ridlby SSserSular cliffs, nearly or quite PX^ft^
:.^hl?Su^^^^J=teS/9^^^^^^
ne?c=«S"aJ^;^^'^^^^^ on the westem
Jt, £ S f ^er. fai we -^^herjdge from the
upper to the lov...couny. tiie fo^;^be.ng^n^ l^v^^
?T. mentioned^ P-^. TrwSrrand'Sking^he
Ontario, through the '•'?^/ "\ C^* "V doubtless broke
JW it'^rrrfar ^St £;. fS tSe pen^endicular
SfhJch nrU the shorei. Nor ^--ffi ^Z^
runs westward, and T"'*"-,™""'^ ^nf fh. rWeJ'^rcaUedti^
and a sweU of it. twelve miles west ot the "^?'' '* ^^^ " "
IhoA Hills, where a BP-^%Ve*;|,^^rsSnds tt\X
'^^"oS^s^^TweSheTi^'SJe^t'naVuna parter.cs or
plains of Lakes Erie and Ontaiw.
O
■ -i(ai^jj8e! ^iaMitei i yate« aia:-
I ^P' "
"T"r"
158
tHDUX UXAIIfl — ar"H»T05.
At Mount Dorchester, an elevated part of the high landu,
and nea. the house of Sir I'. Mnitland, U an object of curio-
sity well worth some notice. A few ycai* ago, a large oak
tree, measuring at the base five feet in diameter, was blown
down, and in the opening made in the soil bv the roots of
the tree which were torn up, a large quantity of human bones
WW discovered. A further excavation presented to view an
immense collection, regularly disposed, an«l forniing perfect
skeletons ; among them were found armlets pipes, beads,
heads of tomahawks, and other Indian articles. Several large
conch-shells, too, were discovered, some of them bored so
as to be used as a rude kind of musical instrument : it is said
that these shells are of a species to be found only in the
islands of the Pacific, or on the western shores of America,
and tljey certainly resemble that upon the dress of the king
of Owhyhee, which is preserved in the museum at New-York;
a circumstance that may throw some light upon tht investi-
gations of philosophers, relative to the ancient inhabitants ot
this continent. «. , . v »
The spot where these remains have been tound is about
seven miles from Lake Ontario, to which the ground slop.s
away, and is thus similar in its situation to the ancient works
we have spoken of as existing in the state of New-York.
L'ke them it bears every appearance of a military work ;
and It IS said, that when the ground is freed fixim the leaves
of trees which are now strewed over it to a conwderable
depth, holes resembling the marks of piqucta may be seen
surrou; ling the space of several acres. From the side of the
hill springs a fountain of the clearest water, in quantity suffi-
cient to turn a mill: this circumstance too is worthy of notice,
as it is found invariably wherever these tumuli are seen on
the eastern continen;— in Hritaiii, Scuntlinavia and Asia.
Quemston Htighia . e a commanding n .iitary station, now
defended by intrenchmtits and batteries. In llie early period
of the late war, it was slightly lortified. On the 13d» Octo-
ber, 1812, General Van Henssclaer, commanding the United
States' forces on tlie Niagara frontier, formed an expedition
against it. In the morning, a party of militia embarked in
boata at Lewistown, and, in the face of a most deadly fire,
notwithstanding the embarrassment caused by the eddies ot
the river, effected a landing. Colonel Van Rensselaer, to
whom the command of the expedition was asaigned, received
e
r
aniiiicTOir.
uted part of the high lands,
itland, is iin object of curio-
few yiai* ago, u large oak
feet ill diameter, was blown
e in the soil by the roots of
rge quantity of human bone*
ivation presented to view an
sposed, and forming perfect
lund armlets, pipes, beads,
idian articles. Several large
ed, some of them bored so
nusical instrument : it is said
es to be found only in the
western shores of America,
I upon the dress of the king
in the museum at New-Vork;
some light upon tht investi-
to the ancient inhabitants of
IS have been found is about
to which the ground 8lop<»
itutttion to the ancient works
f in the state of New-York,
iearance of a military work ;
jund is freed fi-oni the leaves
ed over it to a considerable
wks of piquets may be seen
1 acres. From the side of the
larest waH-T, in quantity »iiffi-
itancc too is worthy of notice,
■cr these tumuli are seen on
in, Scimdinavia and Asia,
inanding n Hilary station, now
batteries. In llic early period
fortified. On the 13tli Octo-
laer, commanding the United
ontier, formed un expedition
party of militia embarked in
le face of a most deadly fire,
ment caused by the eddies of
Colonel Van Rensselaer, to
edition was assigned, received
HVEtssros iir.ioHTS.
Iff
. .r.l stvere wounds, in a few minutes after he had gainj'd
aforcement by the .urival <^ ^^^^VfoTJ^ K S
Rensselaer to about «5^^^^. hundred and tw^^^^^^^
this the attack on the British '>"«»*f*J,"„uted. and Brock,
ofthe bayonet. the enemy 7«7,?°'"P'f,*lVZ^^^ '"
a gallant and distinguished soldier, «»• ™"™7L ^"^^^^ ^as
advanced to the atUcK, """ JT"'' ". reinforcements em-
ral Van Ren.selaer, now fin«*'"F the ouro^e of accelerating
ha,.kingbutslowly.re^rossedrorthepu^
their movements. To his »"^'J'jrP'":,wi. who had here-
however, he found that this part of the "^>Wia^^n°
lofore evinced so much eagerness to '"^^^'f .^"j '{.'^ver-
f Jtered. at the moment theu: «7;f "S, ^'^^th tte pa-
i„« their p^i}''''"^'^' »!,7,t?L^s C^H^"e
racter and cause of *''«=;.'! .^•'"^'T""^ ^^^It who made use
ought to consign to indehble contempt uiose wu«
i .id. ol .h. riv=r, ~';'"~iX'i^SpeKd to r.l«lt
160
tUKHMtTUN— ruRT MKIimo..
and the enemy puihing Iwrd upon their rear, they were at
liut ohiiirod to miiTendcr. ^ au
The villttge of QuutiMon is in the »outhern part ol tne
townithip of Nia«ua. It is the lower landing for the port-
are round the fulli. Amidnt the iurrounding desolations ot
war thi» place was preserved from destruction, and is now in
» flourishing state, having added to iU former bushiess a
portion of what used to centre at Newark. The portage
Soro Queenston to Chippewa, is ten milcsi but the receiving
and forwaitling merchant, generally transports merchan«li8e
the whole distance up to Vort Erie, part of tlie way in wa-
Konk and the rest in boats. Queenston and Lewislown are
malt \i\ commerce. Both of them have good harbours.
Indeed the whole river, for seven miles, down to its mouth,
may be considered as one continued harbour. The shore m
boM. requiring only a short wharfage for vessels to load and
unload, and though the current is swift in the channel, an
eddy near each shore aids vessels and boatH passing up. This
is the head of navigation, whence vessels sail to any port, on
the lake, and down the St. Lawrence to Ogdeiisburg and
Pre scot
Six miles below Queenston, on the shore, is Fort George,
a position of great importance. On this account it became
an object with the Americans to obtain poHsession of it dur-
ing the last war, and a combined attack was made upon it
on the 27th May, 1813, by the land forces under General
Dearborn, and the lake fleet commanded by Commwlore
Chaunccy. The squadron anchored within musket-shot ol
the shore } and a heavy fire commenced, by which the enc
my's batteries were silenced in ten minutes. The troops
proceeded to the beach in three bripdes, the advance being
commanded by Colonel Scott, who landed under a heavy hie
from the British forces. The first, second, and third bri-
gades having reached the shore in their order, the enemy soon
fave way, and retreated with precipitotion to the fort « ""»•
owever, having become untenable from the fire of the
American battenes, they abandoned, and, on the approach
of the advance of General Boyd's brigade, ^ersed m van-
ous directions. . ,
During the rest of the campaign, Fort George remained
under ^e American flag, till in December it was finaUy
abandoned.
im ji w ,i^ miny
on their rear, they were »l
n the southern part of the
owcr landing for the port-
lurrounding' desolation* of
m destruction, and is now in
>d to its former bushieu ft
at Newark. The portage
ten miles i but the receiving
■ally transports merchandise
Erie, p»rt of the way in wa-
leenston and Lewistown are
them have good harbours,
in miles, down to its mouth,
lued harbour. The shore iH
krfage for vessels to load and
: is swift in the channel, an
a and boatH passing up. This
e vessels suil to any port, on
iwrence to Ugdensburg and
)n the shore, is f br< Oeorge,
On this account it became
» obtiun possession of it dur-
eJ attack was made upon it
5 land forces under General
commanded by Commospect The ^^^^^^^^^^^^
it riirht angles. It had been the seat of the P^'^'J^'" .f°^
crnment M.d was the place of the courts ot iust.ce for Niaga-
^ W tr ct The court-house and jail had l^^^n Jemohshed
Ty hot.shot from the other shore, on the day of the batUe of
Qaceiwton.
" I r Tii'tfi lilt l^"i ft Iftfc li" '
■'.SSA*'*"
162
BOVTE TO ftUEBKC.
FAU.S OF NIAGARA TO QUEBEC.
M. M.
FaLIS op NIAOA.RA to
Whirlpool - _
Lcwistown ^ - .
Fort Niagara - - ■ ;
Entrance of Lake Ontario
Genesee River ^t iot
Great Sodus Bay tl \%t
Oswego Kiver 50 m
Stony Point \r, \i>\
Sackett's Harbour ■■■■•-' ii i\'\
Entrance of St. Lawicnce River - - - .^0 ^l>
Cape Vincent --------- ^ ^^^
Kingston (U. C.) opposite
Alexandria o^ or'-
Morristown A Zrt
Ogdensburij r 9R2
Gallop Rapids in 29^
Hamilton ," „(^
Longue Sault Island in ^iq
Grass River .' /„ ' ' e oil
St. Regis, boundarj' of the United States 5 324
Grand Island and Rapids, end of Lake St.
Francis 7 nfil
Cedai- Rapids --;-,-•".** C «««
Cascades, entrance of Lake St. Louis - 5 066
La Chine, end of Lake St. Louis - - 16 382
MosTBEAi ; 20 409
St. SiUpice fi Tm.
Three Rivers 5? Inr
St. Maria - ■ ^ M9
Point au Tremble 20 539
Quebec
Si'llil
.'>
.UEBEC.
A TO aUEBEC.
4
3 7
7 14
74 88
35 123
28 151
30 181
12 IW
River . - - 20 213
2 215
25 240
23 263
13 276
6 282
10 292
17 309
10 319
! United States 5 324
end of Lake St. .
30 354
7 361
keSt. Loius - 5 366
t. Louis - - 16 382
7 389
, 20 409
, 55 464
, 23 487
32 519
20 539
noCTE TO atJMIC.
1«3
DEVIATIONS.
FAIiS 01 NiABABA tO KiNGSTOH, by YOBK, U. C.
M. M.
Faiw of Niagara to .
Whirlpool '3 7
Queenston » j^
Newark
Cross Lake Ontario to ^^ ^g
1°^}- ■.:''.'. '. 55 104
Port Hope - - • ' , on i-ia
Pre8qu'l8le,orNewca.stle. ... - 30 IJ*
South point of Pnnce Edward ■ - - M 10*
False Duck Island 15 204
Ernest Town .15 219
KinosTOS ....
MoNTBEAi. to Quebec, Ch *»"•'•-'
MoSTRBAt to
Port au Tremble
Cross River des Prairies to
St. SiUpice - - ; " "
Cross St. John's River
LaNowge - - - ;
Cross La Chatoupe River
Berthier ", ^ t *
Cross Rivers Maskenong and Du Loup
Three Rivers ..--■-•'
Cross Maurice River ^
Champlun ••''''.'.'''
Cross Rivers Baliscan and St. Ann
St. Marie „,
Cape Saute ..----»-■••*•»
Cross River Port Neut
Cross River Jacques ^
Point au Tremble ^*
QtJIjBO
10
27
40
50
96
111
125
148
160
180
164
LAKB ONTABIO— lOEK.
FAI.L9 OF NiAOABA tO QCEBEC.
o, leaving Ni.g»a '<•'."»"«•' "A?r''&*Mbh
"\ftirwerr"e.W>ty of the P-insula are the P^^^^^
* Leg^Se CoSil sat in one of the,n. -/ the Hou^^ ^s"
JresenUtives in the other. . »«'"« ^'^"^'^^LSto bSs
their waits have been repaired, and converted into bairacKs
c^nsidei-able fleet, but the shore » not boW. «md no v^har^e^
west of tlie Garrison U the mouth of the Hun^ber, wnneriy
S=d tie Toronto, a name which was also apph^ to the
bay. Both of these rivers afford couyemcnt injli-«e»t9.
Di
and 1
dcsti
Fr
extei
Simt
agoi
a dis
Lak<
Fi
port
way
is all
into
cien
but
plaii
Pre!
diffi
vvim
IS
tak<
A'rfi
Qui
St.
nor
Tr,
whi
a c(
din
J
anc
thii
Fr<
in
1
sh<
th(
by
801
th(
en
I— TOBK.
. to QCEBEC.
LAKE ONTAniO — mtSdU ISI.K.
165
real and Quebec, either of
y be taken. The English
nK over to York, and then
mouth of the St. Lawrence;
II reach the same point by
e of New-York, and viating
seated on the margin,
wns and the seat of govern-
•d near the bottom of a small
ke Ontario, about thirtjr-fiye
andnanow peninsula, distin-
hraltar Point, forms and em-
from the storms of the lake,
t'.er around the coasts of this
the peninsula, are the public
the highest ground, near the
venty feet elevation is erect-
e the point, is the Garrison,
governor's residence. Two
d of the harbour, were two
, the msan edifice not being
f brick, one story high. The
f them, and the House of Re-
ng burned by the Americans,
and converted into barracks,
rvening space between that
rbour in front is well secured,
ciently capacious to contain a
•e is not bold, and no wharves
:h ia an appendage of the new
insequently lie off at anchor.
The entrance into the har-
te ; but the Ught-house is de-
^ The Don empties its waters
:ast of the town; and two miles
mth of the Humber, formerly
which was also applied to the
>id couyenicnt inill-«e»t9.
During the war, York was twice visited by the Americans,
and the military stores and other public property sewed anU
*From York, there is a military road, called Ymge Street,
extending in a direction neaii> north tliirty-two miles to Uifce
Slmcoe, whence there is an easy passage into GlmeesUtr Bay,
a cood harbour on Lake Huron ; by this short road, saving
a distance of five hundred miles in the ordinary route through
Lakes Erie and St. Clair. ^u c ♦
Pursuing our passage along the Canada shore, the first
nort of any consequence is Presqu' hk, or Neweoitk, halt-
wav from York to Kingston. It is protected from winds, and
is sdmost enciitiled by a peninsula, which projecte m a curve
into the lake. The basin of water thus embayed is of sufti-
cient depth, and the shore is convenient for a landing place;
but the entrance into the harbour, not bemg very (iirect and
plMn. requires considerable care. The navigation from
Presqu' Isle eastward along the shore, is attended with some
difficulty and tlarger, by reason of bays and pomts, and the
winds to which the coast is peculiarly exposed.
Nine miles after passing Presqu' Isle, the shore of tiie lake
takes a south-easterly direction along the peninsula of i'nnce
Edward county. This peninsula is formed by the bay of
Uuinte, which extends from Maryborough, ^t tfie head ot the
St. Lawrence, westward, in a vei7 irregular form. At the
north-west angle of the bay, it receives, through the river
Trent, after a cu-cuitous route, the w-ters of Mice UiHe,
which Ues forty mUes to tha west, and with which there w
a communication from a '..i«n of lakes m a north-westerly
direction, towards Lake Simcoe. r, j • i i
At the north-east point of the bay, between Fredencksburg
and Rielirmnd, tlie Jippanee river faUs in from the east. On
this river, amidst a flourishing little village, m the rear ot
Fredericksburg, are valuable flour-miUs, said to be the best
'"passfng the southern promontory of Prince Edward, the
shore of the lake strikes to the northward ; and just beyond
the mouth of the bay of Quinte, two passages are formed
by Amherst Island, which lies in the St. Lawrence>-the
south, keeping outside of the island, Erectly to Kingston ;
the other, through the sound between the island ai^ north-
ern shore. In this sound is the harbour of Ernest Tbwn, in
BWO Ii K i l i lill i ' i i i 'irr'"' "'' '*'" ' "'"'" '
165 lAK'- OSTARIO— lOliT JfUOAHA-
a broad open bay, of sufficient depth, a ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^,
goo ^.^olonel Murray, with
evacuation of Fort George, Lieutenant i^.o . ^^^
a body of British troops, <='°f '^ ^^^^er mh, 1813. sur-
at four o'clock in the monung ol D"^^"'^"^'^. t remained
prised the garrison, and t""^*' X],e ^e"der of the war,
Tn possession of the enemy ^ ^'^°"f ^'^'^.^^^that time a large
down the bank. , ^ ^ pg j^ port Gc-
The first place at ^^,^-J ^^i;^/'^;"^^^^^ miles from
nescc, at the mouth of that iiM-r, seAj j^ „ties of Nia-
Fort Niagai-a. The shore .s ^o-W byjh. counti^ .^^^ ^^^^^^
Kara, Genesee and Monroe ; ^^ '";'!" 'L -nountain ridge.
piuaUyslopingdowntotJewatn f^^^
It is tnie, that the clunate alonp ^ '?V '^ ^,^ but still
by tlie exhalations ^^^"^h anse . om it m simme ,^ ^^^^^
BKT NIA6ABA.
\& west from London. It is
Icnth. a smooth bottom, aiid
iccesstoitisfreefromsand-
e shore is even and gravelly,
larf of from fifty to one hun-
to he alongside of It m safety,
iisidcrable prokcUons of land
ivy swells is riso broken, and
,r.^s weakened, hy ^rnM
'e Tonti, which lies m tront.
ingston is easy and toect.
7southem or American shore
«, on the point between the
object worthy of nobce. It
rsi. and taken from them by
At the "lose of the revolu-
,y the British i and though, by
terminated tliat contest, it fell
ot deUvered into their posses-
r soon -after General M'Clure's
eutenant-Colonel Murray, with
sed the river in the mght, and
fof December 19tb, 1813, sur-
the fort by storm. It remained
rouKh the remainder of the war,
sion. Since that time a large
along the lake side, to prevent
tcr, and preserve some of the
p^ecautiin. would have fidlen
,e steam-boat stops is Port 'ic-
river, seventy-four '""e* from
foi-med by the counties otN^-
a fertile body of alluvial land,
e watr- from the mountain ridgc
onp 'K lake is sensibly affected
rise iiom it in summer ; but still
V. It is not exactly such a roun-
, immediately on leaving a uUy,
;amsmoverapidly,.andtSe clouds
or swept by the winds along the
lAKE OirrABIO — PORT OENESEE. 167
natiral hollows of hill-bound valleys. Hut these remarks
apply equally to the neiglibouring counties, long since thick-
ly settled, and far from being sickly. Tlie climate is mild
and temperate, mure so than the comitiy about Albany,
which is farther south and less elevated. Fruit trees put
forth their blossoms sooner, and grain and grass are earUer
in the spring by some days, often one or two weeks.
Port Geneiee is seven miles below Rochester ; it is the
shipping place of that town, and indeed of all the surround-
ing country, and contains from thirty to forty houses. Mr.
Spufibrd states, that the exports from it amounted, in 1818,
1819, 1820, ai'd 1821, to between three hundred and seventy
and three bundled and eighty thousand dollars. In 1820,
they consisted of sixty-seven thousand four hundred and six-
t)-eight barrels of flour, equal to three hundred and thirty-
seven thousand three hundred and forty bushels of wheat ;
live thousand three hundred and ten ban-els of potashes ;
Uvo thousand six hundred and forty-three barrels of beef and
pork; seven hundi-ed and nine barreb of whiskey; one hun-
dred and seventy-five thousand staves ; sundries, as butter,
lard, corn, cider, lumber, cheese, hams, oil, fruit, &c. amount-
ing to the value often thousand five hundred and twenty-four
dollars. In 1822, the collector estimated the flour alone at
one hundred thousand ban'els, and tliat the value of that and
all other articles of produce of the country, exported both
down the canal and the St. Lawrence, say in nearly equal
quantities, will probably amount to five hundred thousand
dollars.
Leaving Port < ienesee, we coast along the south shore of
the lake, passing the mouth of Irondequot Bay, PuUneyviUe,
a iiretty little village, pleasantly seated on the water's ed^e,
i »iid carrying on a considerable trade, and reach in thirty-five
' miles tireat Sodus Buy. This bay forms a safe and commo-
dious harbour, and has from six to eight feet of water on the
: bar at the entiance. It has three islands, of considerable size,
undei- cultivation ; and the whole circumference of the bay.
with il.s coves and points, is about fifteen miles. Ita water.i
are deep and clear, abound v.-'H: fish and fowl, and its shores
have a great many fiwe sites for buildings, commanding ex-
tensive and highly picturesque views. Port Glasgow, at the
j head of navigation on tlie bay, has a pleasant situation and
I a good harbciui-; and from tlus place to the village of Clyde,:
■■ ■ .■j«i«tf »») !ia M J.'-»J'— '" " -' ' ^ —
jgg lAKB OKTAniO— OSWEOO.
•„, Galen, on the Eri-n^. th«e^« V^J^tTo'peK
tage of ten miles and three ?!"*"«"•* . ^^ the canal at
Waterloo. Auburn, Oswego, Ut.o^ ^«'-,i^^^^iXbourhood,
springs have both ^een ch^overed m tj^e n ^^^^^ ^^^.^^
high. ar.d everywhere yielding to th^abramo ^^^
of the lake. One dense »"d ^^°"*Xms The country is
fr;ne"SrttS.1SlSe «^^^^^^^^ — ^«
bay. and the 8»'> «,"'=^"t"*;h„,e nresents a number of in-
go river is twenty^ightmiks beyond Sodus^, J
Tthe port of Om>ego, with the ^i^ »f^ °*f^^^^^ it is
Over the bar at the entrance are ten teet oi waicr, i
Sered as one of t^f be^^it^A-^Xvtthe vfliage.
lake vessels can only navigate n^* * ™'^;^V ^ ,ye miles,
the Rift, thence a boat navigation toM^wel^^
where there is a P°rta.Kf »' \^^^ is a buttonwood tree of
west from Oswe^ ''''u^^'JmeUred, ayear ortwosince,
enormous dimensions. It ^^ "'^^''^^J („ cii-cumference,
and found to be th.rty-five f^f * "^^^^"^ffii^^^ ^nd appears |
two feet from the ground J h«^^'-e ^^» l]^/; .^^^ .^U on :
rsXrftSdlittrod:.from a|u^^^
S VSe^e of woodland, and -f ' ^^'-f^i^'f/^^^, ^^^ to the 1
Beyond Oswego river.^hej^ore ot^he ^ke bcna ^^^^^^
southwarf. and then turning a^^^^^^^^
bay. After passing h s theie are sevem '^ J^^ ^„j |
to which is the large mlet f*""!"!*^ l>aysot ^ ^ ^
,_.08WEOO.
re is a good road over a poi
tew. A road is now opemng
of Port bay, to the canal at
re numerous roads, communi-
hester, Canandaigua, Geneva,
Jtica.&c. I«>".°Ft '"vJs
vered in the neighbourhood,
for their manufacture, which
erity of the place,
.both east and west of Sodus.
if earth, twenty or thirty feet
rtothe'abrasionofthewatm
Continuous forest covers the
,y new farms. The county »s
■ie and variegated, around the
shore presents a number of in-
,th narrow entrances and capa-
robability, when the populauou
„g ports. The mouth of .08we•
s beyond Sodus , just withm it
thevUlageofthesamename^
are ten feet of water, and it is
;st harbours on the lake. 1 he
» half a mile above the village, to
gation to the falls twelve miles,
a mile. About one mile south-
there is a buttonwood tree oi
« measured, a year or two since,
■eet six inches ui cii-cumfcrence,
This tree is living, and appears 1
hollow, with only a thm shell on
fifty rods from a pubhc highway,
■well merits notice.
,e shore of the lake bends to the
r again norUi, forms a considerable
Ui^are several islands, opposite
arming the bays of Chaumontj^ni
^r^parated from each other oy a
or^ ThetownofSackett'sHBi-
westsideofthebay. inlatitvide
ngitudc 76° fifom London, or i
lAKE OSTABIO— SACKETT's BAMOtrB— BUCK BIVEH.
16&
east of Washington city. The bay and harbour are both
wen s tuat^d forshelter and defence. It is in some measure
lln -locked by two large and some smaller islands, standing
Ki mouth oVthe b^:^ eight miles distant to the west from
the village. Chaumont bay is an embranchment of the same
sheet of water which forms the harbour below the mouth of
Black river : it does not however contain as good anchorage,
Sr does the position of its shores i-cnder it «> favourable a
site eitiier as a naval, miUtary or commercial depot, as the
lyn'w known as Suckett's Harbour Jhe latter « perhaps
one of the best situations in the world for ship-buildmg. A
Zv and narrow crescent of land extends from the lower ex-
?lity of the village, and forms an inner and outer 1 arbou. .
The latter, within two fathoms of the shore, has a depUi oi
! ate Ifficrent to Boat the largest ship of the Ime that can
ufformed : the vessels can be framed on nearly a level with
the water, and launched with the greatest ease. The depth
o"r continues to the mouUi of Block ^^'^^^f"^^
anoUicr very excellent posiUon presents '^self for the con
struction of ships either of war or ««'?'^«';f'=-. jMfJj
those places of ship architecture, now lies the hu o a fet-
r ite man-of-war. One of them, covered by a good bu Idmg,
Is 'aid tote the laigest ship of war that -er was bu.lt , a^ui
what is even more astonishing, she was advanced to hei pic-
sent state of for^vardness in thnty duvs, in ^I'c depth of w n
ter Several other vessels of war arc here laid up. Tlic
Madison ba?«ck8, situated about four hu.idre.l yards nortl i-
e^^. wanlly from the borough, on the bay shore were erected
h 181G-17. are of blue schistose limestone, and enclose three
"i^es of a parallelogram of about three acres, the sKie
the bav being open. They are a solid range oi buildmgs,
and add not a little to the appeai^nce of the place
Dunne the war, Sackett's Harbour was once the scene ot
miErivente Wliile the works aiound tlie harbour were
SKnTmperfect state, it was attacked by Sir George P.^-
v^t who. Imne the favourable opportunity of the absence
orGenei:! DeaiL^orn with his ai-my, and Commodore^Cha"^^^
cey with his fleet, on their expedition to Nia^ra, embarked
his Uwps, and sailed from K^^f *»"' °" **^tf \^'\t, Jerse
the very day of the capture of Fort George. By «|verse
S^K^ier circuniLnces, the atUck w- 5,-^^^! £
the morning of the 29th, when, under cover of the ships Aiia
Ti teattAc i jTO** '^ !' '' '"' " ' * ■ "" ' ' ' ^* '
170 tk%.t oktawo— TiHCsrfr'n mint.
gan-boats. about a thousand men l^^d^on a pemnsulla c^^
enemy, who were compelled to ■"etire so rau.# as to le.vc
moat of tlieh- wounded and some pnsoners behina.
i leSff Sackett's Harbour, the adjacent »»'"7 /. J^^
main =«d hL of the islands are low, and composed of J.^t.
l^estone. admixed with an mal e''«}V'*- ,\'J^„J"'£ tZ
■ ""= rf r'jor^ourte "^Sr1s\tTn u^V^
X^ rfthetele cSsS of rounded pebbles of limestone,
'.^irave^few fragment. of someotherfandso^^^^^^^
timber is the sugar-maple, pme, hnden, elm, "^k «• «fv«-r"
secies. thouKh it is not very abundant, birch and bcccli: the
^iT rextreniely fertile. When at some distance from the
Sre the hSh l^^ "ear the source of Black „ver. and be-
Sfe>^&ss;.Si;Ti:^S^
Grand or Long Isle.
Havine now made the cii^of Lake Ontario, it may be
BrSbcfor^ leaving it, to mention a few genci-al c.rcum-
Kes relative to it. The form of Lake Ontario is elhpfcal.
and a central Mne fi-om one extremity to the other measures
:Sout oneTumdred and ninety miles, its g^ate^w.ds
fifty-five miles, and its medmm may be about W'^ "'^e
The St Lawi-cnce issues from the north-east end ot this lake,
which receWes the Niagara river towards its western extre-
mS and from the e.rtrance of this river to the eastern
SinTtion of the lake, its centre »o™«Jhe 'jn^^^^^^^
tween the United States and Canada, nearly h^'^'^"^*?'* '
of Lake Ontario, is within the state of New-York. It is *
vervdeep lake, with sufficient water in every V'fr^if
h^ve^lood haibours, it is never enfu;ely closed w. h .«.
a^ is computed from some soundings to be five hundred
feet deepThe level of Lake Ontario is tluee hundred and
IfCSltT'il MINT.
I landed on a peninsula call-
est of the harbour. After a
■al Brown, with a vciy small
itia collected in great haste
succeeded in repulsing the
retire so rapidly as to leave
e prisoners behind.
•, the adjacent shores of the
E low, and composed of Hertz
exuviae. The border ot the
e elevated above the water
rhe debris thrown up by the
lunded pebbles of limestone,
me other kinds of stone. The
e, linden, elm, oak of several
lundant, birch and beccli; the
-u at some distance from the
jurce of Black river, and bc-
leen far inland.
fith little interruption, all ine
utrance of the St. Lawrence,
•9 Harbour. Directly opposite
1 the river, here twelve miles
nels by a large island, called
it of Lake Ontario, it may be
nention a few general circum-
moiLake Ontario is elliptical,
tremity to the other measures
ty miles, its greatest width is
im may be about forty miles,
the north-east end of this lake,
ver towards its western extie-
i of this river to the eastern
:entre foi-ms the boundarj' be-
Canadai nearly half, therefore,
le state of New-York. It is a
snt water in every pai-t, and it
I never entirely closed with ice,
soundings to be five hundred
:e Ontario is tluee hundred and
lAKB ONTAmO— -KLVOSTON.
in
thlrtv-fourfeet below tliat of Lake Erie, t^entv-one mile.
El! in the nearest place and ^^- ^-^^.^i^^'^'^'y-^''''
fci^t above the tide water ot the Hudson at Aioany.
The aoncaronce of the shores exhibits great diversity: to-
wa S tr nTrth-east part they a., low^ -^^^l^^^^.
places, to the north and nordi-west thev '«f'"»^» '""^ ' *
tanict Of Niaipira pouw, stretches »W8y to "»«.*=^"'™ ■ ."' ,
eminence, to«ennf Aove tl» ctano^ ^■i^'J'^^.
;srisrurto"sriiuJt^--"s «^
20tl.i of June.
Kingston is the British naval depot on lake Onterio and
being inferior only to Montreal and Quel. cc. IJ,« ^^^"^"^^
nvidrtveet The harbour is on the east side, and is toi mea
bTa Cf eTcW noHhw^^^^
meeting the waters of » f^^^. °" '^^'^'^''^estem shore of the
_!i^,a^isifk
If2 »T. tAWimrcE— OASAWOdnt.
already as many as ten or twelve, where vewels of any bunlen
iTiay lie in sufety, and lowl and unload with convenience and
ease. Eastward of the bay, the land proiecU southwardly
a considerable distance to a point callnd Fmnt Frederick, or
iVativ Point, beyond which is Haldemand Cave, a deep basin
of water, sheltered by this point on the west, and Point Ilcnry
on the east, and guarded against souUi winds by fVolfe Utand
in front. In this cove the king's shipping lies, and on lU
western margin aie the royal dock-yard, wharf, stores, &c.t
the entrance into the cove is sale. The town harboiu- has
shoals, but vessels entering or departing may steer either to
the right or left, and avoid them. The principal fortres* is
at Point Henry, which commands both the town and harbour.
Snake Island, situated near the outlet into the open lake, is
fortified, and made a telegraphic station, to commumcate
with a telegraph at Fort Henry.
The first place on the Canada shore, of any note, alter
leaving Kingston, is Oananoqui, eighteen miles below, at the
mouth of the river of the same name. It is supphcd from a
lake also of that name, and another small one further north,
and discharges its waters into the St. Lawrence, m Leed^ the
second township below Kingston. At its mouth there is an
excellent harbour, the channel being from twelve to htteen
feet deep, and the current very slow. Above the rapids, it
is navigable by boats. Its waters accommodate some valu-
able nulls, and a furnace for the manufacture of iron. At an
early period of the wav between the United States and Great
Britam, Gananoqui was visited by a party of volunteers horn
the southern shore, under the orders of Captain Forsyth,
who routed the guard, took a number of prisoners and arms,
and burnt the barracks and public stores.
The whole bed of the St. Lawrence, for fifty miles, « now
stud-led with islands, which are covered with the most luxu-
riant foliage, wherever their rocky surface aflbrds any place
for trees to fix themselves. These, from being exceedmgly
numerous, have been called "the Thousand Islands;" but
their exact number was not known, until the commissionera
for determining the boundaiy between the United States and
Canada, ascert^ned that there were sixteen hundred and
ninety-two, reckoning as an island every rock on which there
vvas a tree. The scenery of the river is here exceedingly
irapregBivc. A savage wildncss prevails along its shores, ex-
m^i
AHAMOftUI.
vherc vessels of any bunlun
kloitd witli convenience anil
land projects southwardly
t called Foinl Frederick, or
Idemand Cave, a deep basin
It the west, and Point Henry
ouUi winds by Wolfe Aland
'» shipping lies, and on iti
ck-yard, whaif, stores, liic. j
fe. The town harbour has
•parting may steer cither to
1. The principal fortress is
1 both the town and harbour,
lutlet into the open lake, is
lie station, to commuiucate
[la shore, of any note, after
eighteen miles below, at the
name. It is suppUcd from a
ber small one mrther north,
I St. Lawrence, in Leeds, the
1. At its mouth there is an
being from twelve to fifteen
slow. Above the rapids, it
;rs accommodate some valu-
manufacture of iron. At an
I the United States and Great
by a party of volunteers from
: orders of Captain Forsyth,
umber of prisoners and arms,
)lic stores.
wrence, for fifty miles, <8 now
covered with the most luxu-
:ky surface affords any place
lese, from being exceedingly
the Thousand Islands;" but
Dwn, until the commissioners
etween the United States and
s were sixteen hundred and
nd every rock on which there
be river is here exceedingly
I prevails along its shores, ex-
»T. tAWH«iroi— AWXAJromiA— nonwsToww.
173
cent here and there a speck of cultivation, where the settler's
hut is seen, or a little village breaks upon the view. Somc-
Ses Ton meet a solitary Indian. K^efUl ly »t»nd."g m the
Knw and windinir his canoe around the islands, or engaged
t fi^hiS The flack cedars, which line the shores or crown
h. Sislands, hickly scaTtered over the immense «urface
of U^ riverwW by their savage monotony to the mdenessot
^L scene The islands appiar so close together, that tn-.-
nuentlv till you approach quite near, no opening can be per-
rve&hen sudleV youV "^''-^''^Thrbls'Srit
i.„ » .hort tack, into an open expanse. The basis oi vncse
isLnds^U gSnit'e \ clJn of pnV.tive mountain, leaves the
elevated c^nl h-west of Lake George, and proceed-
elevatea couH .Krouirh the state of New-Vork. crosses
Z 'st Law e„. . between Kingston and Brockville. The
nassaee ZfllcSt. Lawrence over this chain, forms the Thou-
Lnd fslnds Every part of this stream present phenomena
rdemonsirate that this ridge was once unbroken, and that
n Kt some point, existed a cataract, above w»»ch the *a.
"rl of Lake Ontario were elevated much h'ffher than therf
itrs o» '^"^ " . ,v,g_,ntion or eradual wear of this mass
KTkVTe ase^tL'^rp?^^^^^^^^^
iJy below, and then perl^ps was formed the cataract of Ni-
"*Twenty.five miles below Kingston is -^^^^^f^'^^^oi
"'S;Si"e 'S below Alexandria is the viUa.e of
3w"mn, and opposite to it. on the Canada fore, tfiat of
Hiwlcville where the Thousand Islands terminate. The for-
St sIS'on the north side of MjJ creek -m J f -^:
with a large mouth, that here enters tiie St. Lawrence, nuK
ngasmafharbourforcanoes. " '««»e pace where Ge„em^
Wilkinson embarked his army, in the autumn of 181J. On
EoppTit^Tde of the river.' which is here about one mUe
and a quarter wide, but a Uttle above it. is Brockvdle.
The^erv. which, during the whole passage down the
St lIiSe?^^remXbly fine, is here worthy of particdar
noti^l^hc l^d rises by a gentle and almost unperceptible
c2
17*
■T. IAW«1HC»— BROCKTIttS.
ncclivity from the water, and prcsenU a lan ich rwe from
hinbodoin crowned with tufted fc ■ ■.. j)re*."'(f nothing
but dark and craggy n)ck» to the i,..^ ... .; wave; u w gliding
nionir with wlcnt majesty, and bearinff r.^mwu: .u»ly the
Blender bark of the Indian, and the rteam !. )M. th- maatcr-
niece of civilized art) while its Hbores foi-iii u cou itry that
ore lonir shall •fiem with aU the luxuriance of iigriculture, and
where we now see peeping from among primeval forests
many a cheerful settlement, and towns destined to be Uie
scats of extensive trad.;. Those who have never beheld the
St. Lawrence can fwii. bit a faint idea of tliis Missouri ot
the North : it presenU * icuture in the country, at once beau-
tiful and grand. We n.viy here apply the lines which were
written by a poet, while sai''")? on its waters;—
See ! in his bark, the paif.\.::i;; Indian glide,
Down the white rapids of 'he ; iidly tide,
Through m xssy wdods, thr»'.;,',u iileU flowering fair.
Through aliades ol bloom, wl». p the first sinful pair
For consolation might have weeping trod,
V sn banished from the garden of their God.
But see ! the tinges of the west decline,
And night sinks dewy on these banks of pine :
Among the reeds, in which our idle boat
Is rock'd to rest, the wind's complaining note,
Dies, like a half-breathed whispering oi flutes-
See ! on the wave the gleaming porpoise shoots.
Amid the rippling current's silvery Gght,
Where wave and rapids sparkle through the night;
Here, as along the snadowy bank we stray.
And the smooth glass-snake, gliding o'er our way.
Shows the dim moonlight through his scaly form.
Fancy, with all the scene's enclMntment warm.
Hears, in the murmurs of the nightlv breeze,
The song of spirits, warbled thiwigh the trees.
The to wn of BroekmUt is a new settlement, pleasantly situ -
ated, with a custom-house and some well buik hoiues. Be-
tween it and Prescot, thirteen miles below, commences a
seconiUiy region, concistiuB in a great Pa^ of sclustose s»nd-
anocKVitis.
■enU A lancUcapc of mirpass
ling in iu bed the collected
i.it«>i of a thouwnd itreaim i
"e.y "hndii, > ' ich ri«efrom
< ' ' 1, !.,■ j)re».i>i ''(f nothing
. ji;<..r .; wave; 11.. w gliding
bearinjj rcmunu lUiily the
the steam ).)M . th' nuMter-
Hhoret (aci.i ii cou.itry that
ixurianceofiij^culture, and
om among primeval forests
towns cfcstincd to be tlie
who have never beheld the
Taint idea of tliis Missouri of
in the country, at once beau-
apply the lines which were
: on its watem:—
lod; 1 iidian ^lidc,
ihf* i(u\lly tide,
wjf,h islets flowering fair,
will 1 ' the first sinful pair
! weeping trod,
nrden of their God.
le west decline,
hese banks of pine:
1 our idle boat
's complaining note,
vhispcring of flutes—
ming porpoise shoots,
's silvery ught,
arkle through the night j
y bank we stray,
e, gUding o'er our way,
through bis scaly form,
I encluntment warm,
:he nightlv breeze,
;d thitnigh the trees.
!W settleinent, pleasantly situ -
■ome weU built houses. Bc-
I miles below, commences a
a gtwt part of scluatose sand-
,•«>.
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Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580
(716) 872-4503
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p-!lM"JW?.l-iiWfHi^P"'.' *"!*y"I
ST. lAWRENCE — PUERCOT — OOBEWBBUnO.
1/5
Stone, tipon wliich often rests an alluvial deposit. Immediatc-
iv below Brockville, the Canadian shore is formed by a high
and perpendicular ledge of the latter formation. Below this
place, the river is without islands for fifteen or sixteen miles,
and extends to the width of a mile and a half, with shores ns-
ing by a gentle acclivity from the water, and, where cultivat-
ed, inexpressibly beautiful. The soil is exuberantly nch, and
covered with a growth of timber, indicative of extraordinary
foi-tility, such as white birch, red maple, sugar tree, elm, Ln-
den, hemlock, and white pine.
Prescot is a settlement begun before the late war, at a
point well situated for a commercial establishment, and al-
though yet in its infancy, considerable arrangeiMnts have
been formed for establishing and supporting it, a^Rrtand for
forwarding the business of the Canadian side of the lake and
river. In the progress of the war, Prescot was fortified.
The fortification has received the name of Fort Wellington.
It has a gan-ison of regular troops, and !!■■ an important nub-
tarj' post, commanding tho river and the opposite town ot
Ogdensburg. .
Osdmshtirg, on the American shore, is a much more popu-
lous and flourishing place. It is the capital of St. Lawrence
rounty, and situated on a beautiful plain, immediately north
of the mouth of the Oswegatchie River. It is regularly laid
o\it, and contains about one hundred houses and stores, the
»»^"^r"h*^^
Tnthe ice. near the shore. -"^X" P^J^tfj^ran riuU.
^.arenUy for the same purpo e^^Jut prepared tor.^^^
His progi-ess towards OS^^"*^"55 p„ »nd pushing for the
until he was marchmg on a 1"^,'^^**^?,:^^en. formed them
tomed boats. . .. Ugiow Ogdensbiirg,
The rapids comm-^nce go«J^«»« ^^^ bouSm of the
with what are called the t'*^ ^"'^'^^^^^ j^^es a consider-
channel of the St. Lawrence makes mmai^pi^^^ ^.^^^
able slope, do^^'*'' ThtetteneSy o-^lX " ^e'T ««»»
.surprising velocity. There is generou, , ^
pf.°\4t?rci^kSra5dto^^ereW^^^ - *^
piloted with mucn sKiii »''J!^ , ,. jf jijetrue course were
Urst part, called "the LostCh*.meU ^^^^ ^„ -^^^^^
once missed, they would be <«*»^^J^P „ ^^ery part of the
The water, which ^^ ";"^t,SlSe "pTe^^Le of the
^p,ds,a»«mes in ^^^^^£^"^"5 different lengths. The
cr'^ed^iJK^^s^-^^^^^^^^
thei
whe'
tmu
the
Th<
„-^.^-, — <— f.*?W)K^I^'; ^9^
jursc, the batteries at Prcs-
-ovev their landing. When
liver, General Brown, who
ened his battery upon them
Two or three of the boats
imcdtoPrescot. This was
eer in which success so urn-
through the war.
utenant-Colonel M'Donnell,
>scot, planned and executed
, he had exercised his troops
sain paraded them there, ap-
lut prepared for an assault,
urg was not noticed there,
ck step and pushing for the
allied his men, formed them
nee i but being unprepared
, driven from his position and
lonnell took possession of the
rescot the cannon and stores
not again occupied as a roUi-
eed any further down the St.
interrupted at intervals by the
t made in batteaux or flat-bot-
t six miles below Ogdensburg,
pliapids. The bottom of the
ikes in many places a consider-
lole body of water rushes with
I KeneraUy only a veiy small
ts can pass 5 and they must be
coolness, especially as m the
lannel," if tlie true course were
dashed to pieces in an instant.
;h agitoted in every part of the
Channel the appearance of the
8 are of (Afferent lengths. The
lult, continues for nine mUes.
velocity the trees on the banks
ou descend the rapids 5 indeed
ST. lAWHEHCE — lOWG BkVVT — WIMIlMSBURa. 177
the whole voyage affords a great deal of amusement, though
when going down some of tlie most difficult passes, astonish-
ment and fear usurp the place of all other feelings.
Sixteen miles below Ogdensburg, on the southern shore,
is the village of fVaddinglon, containing nearly one hundred
houses, an academy, a number of mills, and some elegant
scats belonging to the proprietors of the town.
The mills are owned by these proprietors, and stand on a
branch of the St. Lawrence, separated from the main stream
by Ogden bland. The dam extends to the island, and cost
more than tlwee thousand dollars. A bridge is also tluwwn
across tliis channel, here about two hundred yards broad.
Immediately opposite this village, is the rapid called Le Petil
Sault, which materially injures the navigation of the SU
The rapid called the Long Sault, is a little farther down
the river, with the Long Sault islands. The noise, the con-
tinual motion, and magnitude of its conten^ng waves, render
the Long Sault at once tlie object of terror and delight.
They burst upon each other, and tossing aloft their broken
spray, cover the stream with a white and troubled surface, (^
far as the eye can extend. From a point of land, on the north
shore, formed by the sinuosities of the stream, much gran-
deur is displayed. The bank is here about fifty feet high,
and commands a view of the principal branch of the nver,
for a distance of two or three miles ; in which the effulgence
of the impetuous current is beautifully contrasted with the
bordering shades of the woods. Towards the south shore,
which is separated by islands from the branch now described,
the stream is much less broken, and its depth precludes the
use of poles. The length of the Long SaiUt is estimated at
nine miles ; and a boat usually descends it in about twenty
minutes, which is at the rate of twenty-seven miles an hour.
Seven miles below Waddington, on the northern bank of
the St. Lawrence, is tVilliatmburg, beautifully situated, but
consisting of little more than a few poor wooden buildings.
Some celebrity however is attached to it, from the battle ot
Chrystler's farm, which was fought in the neighboitthood on
the 11th November, 1813. The American army, under Gene-
ral Wilkinson, were proceeding down the St. Lawrence to at-
tack Montreal: the commander in chief, with the greater
proportion of th^ troops, were in the boatg, but a consider.
Lie force, the advance of which wa. under tje -mmand^J
Snetl B«,wn aftd the -^^1:^" Colonel Morrison.
Bovd marched along the Canat«e 3"9" j^ ^^^^ their
Sts of the war, claimed this v^to^r. b ^^^^^ ^,,^
own statements, tliey S^'^ed no^J'"^ "y^ffect his passage
object of the American generaWa^o,,^
down the 8t. Lawrence. «'»* o* /"«' "; -« was prosecuted
watered by a rivulet '^in'"B. M"^X Long Sault. It is the
coSkUoJis bay "J^VJ^^S Ll^^ct. li a very res^ec -
seat of the c?«f *"r ^'^'^/^tS and vectoiy. and consider-
able Uterory insUtution, a cnuru
able trade. . „ „ . ^^e point where the nonn-
fence
belor
sion I
(lescc
the c
Reg]
Tl
ands,
miles
rour;
cessa
wliic
rcsis
tliei
wlilc
this I
■ ■| in)i) ii n,iM » iymyw".4i i yr
va« under the command of
ird under that of General
shore, colonel Mon-.son.
pursued and h^f *?'\,^*^^
Lquence of which Gene^l
red against the enemy ? he
rge«?.mapartyofthem.
,hort9kirmisli,werednven
was advantageously drawn
Sinte,-sectedthepla.n.
pon the right of the enemy.
fculey assailed his left flank,
Kving driven back, with
Jpoedto^•.m. Thecon..st
J th.. line • but the unfortu-
U^a tiled while gallant-
:r^°e,^andthewantofammu.
iUVne'herJK, the whole
^Undre-occupied the ground
n oriKinally driven, while the
ion afterwards, the Amencju^
2^ the flotilla, whJetiied«.
eSed by land to the foot °f the
X i.istice as in several other
nothing by the event. Uie
.«1WM to effect his passage
Se British to retard or defeat
• the nassage was prosecuted
f^m thcSrther descent be-
.SS^fcolumn on shore, nor
;Kr mouth of Gr«..«.--.
rclma//, a flourishing tow'^
jtlm,«ghit,andsituatedona
below the Long Sault. It i» mt
KHtrict.hasave|^-«P^^^^^
arch and rectoiy. and consider
,«\ the point where the norths
fi?^dKs«!^kestheSt.Law-
ST. lAWBKXCr. — CT.DAnS — rA8CADT.R.
179
rence ; beyond this point, therefore, both sides of the river
belong to Caiiatla. Passing this, we soon enter a wide expan-
sion of tlie river, known by the name of Lake St. Francis,
descend the Kapids called the Cedars and Cascades, and reach
the entrance of Lake St. Louis, forty-seven miles from St.
Regis.
tlie rapids of the Cedars are formed by a cluster of isl-
ands, in the midst of the river ; for almost one and a half
miles above, it has assumed a sudden declivity and winding
course. An awful and solemn efl'ect is produced by the in-
cessant sound, and rapid motion of the ever-swelling waves,
whicli, covered with effulgent whiteness, drive along with ir-
rtslstible fury. In descending, tlie batteaux are steered near
the western shore, to avoid tlie tremendous and brokei. swell,
which in some places is interspersed with rocks. Although
tliis conree is not unaccompanied by danger, the Canadians
i.re in general so experienced and skilful, that an accident
ulmost never occui-s.
About three miles below are the Caseadegt they are about
two miles in length, and flow among three different islands.
The rapidity and force of the stream, arising from the great
declivity of its bed, and the number of rocks and cavities
which it contains, causes it to break into masses of white foam,
moving in a direction the reverse of that of waves produced
in a troubled ocean, by the agency of storms. They curl their
resplendent tops towai-ds the quarter from whence they are
impelled. The mind of a stranger is filled with admiration, on
bKholding, in the calmest and finest weather, all the noise,
effect and agitation, which the most violent conflict between
the v,inds and waters is capable of exiiibjting.
The boundary line between Upper and Lower Canada
(.Hikes the St. Lawrence about the middle of Lake St. Fran-
cis near Foint-uu-Bodet. From this place it is formed by an
1 imaginary line, taking a northcriy course till it reaches tho
I great river Ottawa, wliich then becomes the division as far
as, its source. , , , ■ e
Immediately at the foot of the Cascades, the last series ot
the rapids, opens Lake St. Lrmis, which is formed by an ex-
pansion of the St. lAwrence at the mouth of the Ottawa nver.
This large stream rises in the country of the Timmiskamaing«i,
on the MHie high land on which tlie Abbitibbee and other
1 waters that flow into Hudson's bay have their swiice : it is
J80 .T.IA-WBBSCr,— IACB»'«E.
the great Channel by Which thcjc^^^^^^^^
Ire conveyed. «"f jJ~A2erSve to transnort thejr
interrupted by ™P'^*' ^^^^Xv" its junction with the St.
panoes around them. J"«*!^°[\ tel'n.ed the Lake of the
Lawrence, jt .»P'^^„»f'"ower pail of this lake, or rather be-
Sn'^ratd'u.'^t^K oflL^uis. spread three .slands.
Jesus, Perrot aid Mo"tre^. ^ Montreal, the
At La Chine, a little village on «J^ "'""j^ conveyed in a
passage by water -"^''.ff.^tUurgeTs the place' whence
JaUc^e or stage to t»'^ "^y- 47J" upper Canada are em-
»U tlie merchandise and »to^^* '"%, 4^. Lawrence. Dur-
Stfkedinbatteaux,toproceeduptlicSt L^ ^^
inff tlie summer season, they ^^ 37i,g,,4da. The set-
tJeen tliis place and Kingston n "PPI"- J^^\ pi,„ ^hich
tl^ment of La Chine f,^^«^/^^ ySgh the continent of
SsThaving embarked at this spot ,^,,.
^Trom La Chine '*l«%*'i«^,X''Tak?tt?r dep^ure. Of all
West Company in the fur trade, ta^^l^^^F 1^^, burdens
Se numerous cont"^,«""* 1°'£X most extraordinar)^
bv water, these vessels are perhaps ^"V , uate,fi-om the
scWly any «««? <=''" 'LTctfoT to thrpSose to whicH
dightnLs of tlicir con^tm^^^^^^^^^ to^«'e P^^ P ,,„„„« tov-
they are apphed, an4*",^'f"!,gt be passed in tiie course o»
rentof tl.e many ^P'^^^^^^^^xceed ^""^y feet in length, and
the voyage. They s?'«"V;„f f "f' ^^J^ point at each end,
^ inVeadth./iminishmB to a sh^^^^ .^ ^^^^^^,^i
without distinction of head »» jf^^^ , . .t jg then covered
JsmaU pieces «/ «r^i;7Xcrint; convenient slips,
with the bark of *^. J'^J^^^i^y ^ of an inch in thickness ;
that are rarely more than ^he eignii ^^^ ^,^^ ^^ ^^d
These are «ewed together w,ththr^ads^^^^^ ^^^„
fibres of therootso? ^P'^^^f^h^^^e materials apphed on
necessary by narrow W. °L^t „^„iung are made water-
Sie inside , the joints '«} *« /"^f^^^-S o^^^^ that adheres
tight by being covered *'* » ^P^^^'^,^^.^ No iron work of
i ,i ip .By j l l imB i iw i wfiJ u y ji. ■ » |^ ■ w »..J,» "
■IK CHINE.
skins from U.c north-wesl
laviiration is in many places
,e its junction W't'\."*^.7h
art ofthis lake, or rather be-
Louis, spread three islands,
n the island of Montreal, the
c traveller is conveyed m a
,,8 viUaee is the place whence
for Uppe^ Canada arc em-
up the St. Lawrence. Dur-
aie constantly passing be-
, Supper Canada. The set-
'ts name fi-om a plan which
itintr through the continent ct
Sis cnligcd in the enter-
^r 'employed by the North,
e take their departure. Ot all
,rt!-a™-ti"&'"='''y^"^''"'
erhaps^emostextraordma^'^
ceived, so inadequate from the
ion. to the puipose to whicii
nd against the \mpetuouB tor-
must be passed in tiie course o»
sceedthUy feet in length, and
Toashai-ppointatcachend,
,rHtcm:t]^elrame is composed
b^ht wood, it is then covered
tree, cut into convenient shps,
. eightli of an inch in thickness ;
th breads made from the twisted
.artrec, and strengthened when
rf the s^me materials applied on
fragile planing are made water-
,;Tfpedes of gV that adheres
lerfectiv hard. No iron work of
mS. enter into the construction
Sch, when complete, weigh orfy
each. On being prepared tor tbc
ST. lAWnBNCK— rCII TWADB— VOTAOKUBS.
181
vovatce, they receive their lading, which, for the convenience
of carrying across the portages, is made up m packages ot
about three quarter ol a hundred weigiit each, and amounts
. Zethcr to five tons, or a little more, including provisions
"and other necessaries for tlie men, of whom eight or ten are
employed to each canoe. . r - .. *u^
They proceed up the Grand or Ottawa river, as far as the
80uth.west branch, by wliich, and a <=hamot small lakeMhey
reach Lake Nipmiug; through it, and down the French
River into L(£r Huron ! along its northern coast, up the
narrows of St. Mary, into Lake Superior, and then by it»
northern side to the Grand Portage-a distance of ..bout
eleven hundred miles from the place ot 'i«=P""-'""=.- ' ^C
difficulties encountered in Jhis voyage Me not eas.lyc^^^^^
ceived; the great number of iiipids m t!ie rivers, the ditter-
ent portagesLm lake to lake, which vary from a few y^
to therefor four miles in length, where the canoes rnust be
unladen, and with their contents earned to tlie n«t water,
occasion a succession of exertions and fat.gucs, of which but
nitle idea can be forme.l, by judging it fl-o.n the ordinary
occupations of other labouring classes.
The men employed in this aiduous service vie called voy-
..Keurt; tTey ai-e ?ob«st, hardy and resolute, capable of en-
Sg great extremes of fatigue and privation for a long tame.
SSfeiice almost inexhaustible, l.i the large lakes.
Zv are freauentlv daring enough to cross the deep bays,
: J„ a diSc^Tsevei^r leagvl in their canoe^X^^
lenirtheninK the route by coasting them. Yet, notwithstai^-
S thefuks and ha.^ships attending their employmen^
Zy pretL it to every other, and are very seldon. mduced
to i^l^iquish it in favour of a more ««*^^t.3br so m^ny
few dolUrs thev receive as the compensauon for so many
prlSrand dangers, are .generally 'h-pated With » moj
Leless indifference to their future ^^^^f ' »"?„£'* "Jjt^^
end, they contentedly renew the sama»ene« of tods to obtwft
" The nTliom La Chine .o Montreal is one of the moj*
beau ifil^^Uiarcan b« imagined, the country on either Im4
™ ts a» the erobeUishment of a numerous population,
Sir. and g^ cultivation. About five miles from he
I.Ctheror;KaU>ngaridse for more^^^^^^
commanding a be»«tittU view over the add* Wd me»aow«
,,.^.^
182
MOTTTIIIAl.
beneath, with the St. Lawrenr.c, studded with islands, wair
deritiR amonp tlieiii. " It i» a plcttsant relief to the eye, tsred
with i\u- contemplation of dieury foifHta and w.de watery
wantcs, when the fair sciffnioi-y ol Montreal suddenly opens
before you. Uich and undulating lands, spnnklcd with villas,
and bomulcd on out hand by woodutl heights, and on the
othci by the gray city, its tin roofs and sphtis blazing in the
setting 8U1M the vast river, chafed by hidden rocks into
Hounding and foaming pupids, and anon spreading his water*
into a broad sheet of molten gold, speckled with islands,
battoimx, and shipping ; the distant shore, with its dark Ime
of forest, and fur off, two solitary mountains, raising their
blue heads in the vcnnil glories of the horizon, like sapphires
chased in rubies. Along the road, French faces, with all tlie
harshness of feature ixnd good humour of expression peculiar
to the national physiognomy, look and gossip from door and
window, orchard and meadows a passing salutation easily
winning a smile and courteous obeisance."*
The island of Montreal forms the seigniory of the same
name, and also the county of Montreal. The greatest part
of it was granted, in 1640, to Messrs. Cliemer and Lc Royer;
but whether disposed of by them, or fcrfcited to tlie crown,
docs not appear from any official record tliat has been pre-
served : it is at present wholly the property of the seminary
of St. Sidpice at Montreal.
The island is divided into the following nine parishes.—
St Ann, St. Genevieve, Point Claire, La Chine, Saultau He-
CoUet, St. Laurent, Riviere des Prairies, Point an Tremble,
And Longue Point. The soil of tlie whole, if a few insigiuh-
cant tracts be overlooked, is scai-cely excelled in any coun-
try, and is highly productive in grain of every species, vege-
tiiles and fiuits of various kinds ; consequently there is
hardly any part of it that is not in the most flourishing state
of cultivation, and it may justly claim the pre-eminence over
any part of Lower Canada. ....
The city of Montreal, in latitude 45° 3.V north, longitude
73° 37' west from London, is placed on the south side of the
island, whose banks are here from ten to fifteen feet high
ttam the level of the water. It is built in the form of a pa-
rallclognun, extending from north to south. A deep and
* Viewi of Soeiety in Amcriw, p< S75t
■WW
i.tg^'.;>^,...
xoxTntii. — runuc ■uiLDiNao.
11$
studded with islandx, \«'uii
aant relief to the eye, tired
foreHtji itnd wide watery
Mtiiitrcitl suddenly opens
lands, sprinkled wiui villas,
)oded lieig^hts, and un the
fs and sphtis blazing in the
fed by hidden rocks into
1 unon sjireading his wutern
Id, speckled with islands.
Mil shore, with its dark line
ry mountains, raising their
:' the horizon, like sappliircN
I, French faces, with uU the
nour of expression peculiar
k and gossip from door and
a passing salutation easily
>ei»ance."*
the seigniory of the same
ontreal. The greatest part
uirs. Cherticr and Lc Royer;
n, or tprfeited to tlie crown,
d record tliat has been pre-
tie property of tlie seminary
e following nine parishes.- —
laire. La Chine, Sault au Re-
Prairies, Point au Tremble,
the whole, if a few insignift-
jxiely excelled in any coun-
jrain of every species, vege-
nds ; consequently there is
in the most flourishing state
:lttijn the pre-eminence over
ide 45° 3:i' north, longitude
iced on the south side of the
om ten to fifteen feet high
is built in the form of a pa-
irth to south. A deep and
Amcriu, F> 27{.
rapid cuirent flows between 'he shore and the island of St.
Helen t a strong north-east ^.ind is therefore necessary to
carr)' vessels up to the townt and when that is wanting, they
remain at anchor at the lower end of the stream. This in-
convenience might have been obviated, had the city been
huilt about a mile below its present site, at a place csJled
the Crujm.
The population of Montreal is about twenty-five thousand.
It is divided into the Ui)pcr and Lower Towns ; one, how-
ever, is but little elevated above the other. The streets are
fur the most part laid out in a regular manner, generally
rather narrow, but the new ones are of convenient width.
The houses are mostly built of grayish stone, and the roofa
are covered with sheet iron or tin ; many of them are larg^,
handsome, and in a modern style, seldom however exceed-
ing two stories in height.
In the lower town is the Hotel Dieti, founded by Madame
de Houillon, in 1644. It has a superior and thirty ntms, whose
principal occupation consists in administering relief to the
sick, who are received into that hospital. A largfe room in
the upper part of the building, is appropriated as a ward for
female, and one immediately under it for male patients. As
the institution was intended for public benefit, the medicines
were, during the French government, supplied at the ex-
Eense of the crown. The fund by which it was supported,
eing vested in Paris, was lost in consequence of the revolu-
tion. Its present slender resoui-ces are chiefly derived from
some property in land.
The Genernl Hmnpltal stands on the banks of the river,
and is separated from the town by a small rivulet. It owes
its establishment, which was in \75ii, to a widow hidy named
Youville. It contains a superior, and nineteen nuns.
The upper town contains the cathedral, the English church,
the convent of Recolletu, that of the sisters of NoU-c Dame, '
the seminary, the government -house, and the courts of law.
Tlie Cathedral church is a very spacious building, contain-
ing five altars, all of which are very richly decorated. Almost
all the christenings, mairiagcs and burials of the Roman
Catholic inhabitants, are performed in this church, on which
occasions, as well as before and during tlic masses, they
ring the bells, which arc five in number, to the annoyance of
those who are not fond of discordant sounds. The funerals
.,l lllpllllll)^
.i.iiiii|if«aii|
IM
noiir»tkv-*^ lAWiincB-
carrying wax-liKhti. . ^ „ ,he river, at the
The BarraeAd are »Brefaniy »iiua»cn " .. |
;„d calculated to conta.n »b™^„'X J l^^and some
>valU around the town "« « J^^e LTe a c quite perfect.
of them ar. .n '"'"f • »i\''°"aKe E^
The walls were erected as » f f^""^^,*;" „ the year 1736.
they have been f"""^ TSo^e *" «'«»»^°" °»^'^'= '"*"
They aho served a good P"'P<^V indAans from all parts
f«>s held in Montreal, to which »^: '"S,„r^e e thus
'.^sorted with their furs , because ^^J^^^^^^'^^^^^^^^ have
enabled to shut them out »* ™Kf^\'/Ji"tStion, to which
attended their remaning, .n a stite« ^„.; ^^j.^„^^^
they are much '^^^icted. Notwrthstan K ^^^^ ^^ ^_
however, Montreal ^^ ^cjn^* > an e >.^j^^^^^^
,^Ur troops. The greater —pr ^^^ ^^.^^^^
Msta of persons of French fXtracuon, n
;;erch«nu and the P^^'^'P'^^P'^P^^deL^n^^^^ ^»'<»»
tally EngUsh ScotcV im>^.o the^ descencw .^,,,^i^„i..
indicrimmately pass for ^nR '«"*""" . „^^nmn and cua-
The French retain, .n a great '7«?"'^J/,,'^';^, ^nd present
changes and improves. gt. lJ»wrence. the
From Montreal to Quebec, «°^" "., .j., navigation
distance is »"« hundred and e^htvmdes^l he "K^^^^
admiration. The different seigniories. »" '" "'^ "'^' ^^ ^x-
SCfrovement that the «Sric"lt4^j/4''= "i^he "^.ews Trc
5Jayfe":!:ndXX^^^^^^^^
»m» ' " '*
ItAWItnCE.
[ny, «he corpse beiiiR alway.^
liunibcr of priests cliaiiting
[■hite robeH and bluck caps,
ituatcd npar the river, at the
! surroiindrd by a lofty wall,
t three hundred men. 'I'he
leraliy mouldering, and some
1 the gates arc quite perfect.
ence against the Indiana; and
ven so late as the year 1736.
oae, on occasion ot the large
h th- Indians from all parts
se the inhabitants were thus
•ht, when danger might have
state of intoxication, to which
otwithstanding this defence,
ilways an easy conquest to rc-
imber of the inhabitants con-
xaction, though the eminent
eople of the town, arc gene-
their descendants, all of whom
sh with the French inhabitant*.
measure, the manners and cus-
of their ancestors, and present
itants of the United States, and
led, the degree to which they
and manners of France is truly
where every thing so rapidly
down the St. Lawrence, the
eighty miles. The navigation
in it had above; it is conducted
»nd the impediments in ascend-
1 may be overcome with much
nt that their cargoes should be
to transporting them in small
•ivcr, the prospect is worthy of
jniories. all in the highest state
culture of the country will ail-
and industry. The views arc
utiful, although tlie component
ST. tAWKIIfCI— POKT kV TRtMltl— iOBtl.
18S
parts of them do not possess that degree of grandeur which
IS perceivable below Quebec. Numerous villages, built
amiind a hitiidsonie stone church, constantly invite the tra-
veller's attention ; while single houses and farms, at short
(listikuces, appear to keep up a regular chain of communi-
cation. In tlkct, whoever piisscH from one city to the other,
whether by water or by land, cannot fail to be highly grati-
fied, and to meet with many objects worthy both of observa-
tion and reflection.
If the traveller should not be inclined to pursue his journey
farther along the tit. Lawrence, he may nere return south-
ward by a reguhir line of conveyance to Platttburg, which
\i distant but sixty-six miles.
Continuing his course toward Quebec, the first place which
he passes is /'ort mi Tremble, ten miles below Montreal j a
neat village, coiituining about fifty houses, a church, chapel,
and parsonage-house. The in.im road to Quebec passes
through this place, which always brings to it a constant suc-
cession of truNcllers, for who.se reception there are some
inns, where accommodation, in all the principal requisites, is
to be obtained.
Ten miles farther bring- us to the town of St. Slulpiee, on
the northern shore ? and ni twenty-five more, we reach fVil-
liam-lknnj, or ^iorel, built at the niuutli of tlie IU«er Hichlim.
This is the point of cominunicttion bevwecn Lake Champlain
and the St. Lawrence, and is of course a station very impor-
tant to the countries on these great waters. The fort was
intended as a defence against the incursions of the Indians, and
received its name of Sorel from a captain of eng^inccrs who
superintended its construction. The present town was begun
in 1/85, by some loyalists and disbanded soldiers; and it
continues to be the residence of many old military pension-
ers. Although the plan of the town occupies about one
hundred and twenty acres, the number of houses does not
much exceed one hundred and fifty, exclusive of stores^
barracks, and government buildings, The form is regular,
and the streets intersect each other at right angles, leaving
a central scjuare, of more tlian five hundred feet on a side.
The town is built entirely of wood, and the aspect of many
of the buildings is more like that of an Anglo-American town
tlian any yet seen in Lower Canada. The populktion is abiMlt
fti^Mn hundred. The chuiches are of stone.
185 LAKt ST.PETEH Tlllir.I. RlVinS — HlCBtllC BAUDS.
The River Sorel, or liiMieu, is two hundred and fifty yards
broad, opposite to the town; but it presents the singular ex-
ample of a river much nurrower at its embouchure than at
its oriKin. It is more than four tnnes as wide at St. John 8
as at SoreJ, and contintics to widen all the way up the stream
to Lake Champlain. From St. John's, tliere is also a ship
navigation into the lake , but from the town of Sorel, vessels
of one hundred and fifty tons ascend only twolve or fourteen
Ju&t below Sorel, the St. Lawrence spreads into Lake St.
Peter, another basin, and the last in its progress towards the
sea. Like most of the others, this has a group ot islands,
covering about nine miles of the western part; between them,
two distinct channels are formed: the one to the south being
the deepest and clearest, is consequently the best for ships.
The banks on eacli side are very low, with shoals stretching
f-om them to a considerable distance, so that only a narrow
passage, whose genera) depth is from twelve to eighteen
feet, IS left unobstructed. . , r.u j- . • <. r tk«
The town of Three Rivers, the capital of the district of the
same name, is a large place, being the third in point of size
in the province. It is eighty miles below Montreal ; at the
head of the tide of tlie. St. Lawrence, and at the entrance
of St. Maurice river into it. It contains about three huiwlred
and twenty houses, and two thousand five liimdrcd inhabit-
ants : it extends about one tliousand three hundred yards
alone the river, and was founded in 1618. , _p ^.
There is but little variation in the general aspect of the
river, until wc reacli the Uieldieu liapids, about fifty-two
miles below. The bed of the stream is here so much con-
tracted or obstracted by huge masses of rock, as to leave
but a very n.tnow channel, wlierein at ebb tide there is so
KTcat a descent, tliat much caution, and a proper tune of the
ebb, are necessary to pass through it. At the end ot the
tapids, tliere is good anchorage, where vesselsxan wait for
» convenient opportunity to pass them. From Montreal thus
fer. the b^ks are of a very moderate elevation^ and unitorm-
Iv k»Nd'V hut here they become much higher, and gradually
,bc^^ in their approach to Guebcc, until they attain the
WMtfhtof Cape Diamond, upon which the city is built.
^Stetee, the capital of Upper Canada, and one of theoldest
titimm the westtm continent, contaius a population of about
1.
lulfla'iiini'ltiiniiiiiiifWTliiiiiii "'i ""'
AS — niCHLISU RAriD8.
ivo hundred and fifty yards
t presents the singular ex-
it its embouchure than at
incs as wide at St. John's
1 all the way up the stream
)hn's, tliere is also a ship
1 the town of Sorel, vessels
nd only twalve or fourteen
2nce spreads into Lake St.
in its progress towards the
lis has a group of islands,
estern part; between them,
the one to the south being
:q\iently the best for ships,
low, with shoals stretching
nee, so that only a narrow
is from twelve to eighteen
capital of the district of the
ig the third in point of size
les below Montreal ; at the
i-ience, and at the entrance
)ntains about three hundred
usaiiJ five hundred inhabit-
usand three hundred yards
I in 1618.
in the general aspect of the
llm liupids, about fifty-two
tream is here so much con-
nasses of rock, as to leave
erein at ebb tide there is so
on, and a proper time of the
iigh it. At the end of the
;, where vessels can wait for
s them. From Montreal thus
erate elevationj and uniform-
; much higher, and gradually
Quebec, until they attain the
I which the city is built.
Canada, and one of the oldest
contaius a population of about
aUEBEC— THB CHATEAU.
187
twenty thousand. It is built on a promontory formed by the
entrance of the river St. Charles mto the St. Lawrence,
w"uch is the termination of a ridge of land. generaUy from
nne to two miles wide, that runs from west to east. On
the north side, it has the bold promontory of Cape Diamond,
riJng almost perpendicularly three hundred and fortv-five
fcrtlbove the water, and across it. at the north-ea^ or lower
end. the city is built. The fortifications, extending across
the peninsuli shut in the ground on which the "ty stands,
the circuit of which is about two and a half miles. It is di-
SdedTnTo two parts, the upper and lower. The upper town
is situated on the side of Cape Diamond, which slopes to the
north, towards the river St. Charles. It is separated from
Sower town by a Une of steep rocks, which run from the
cane towards the west. The lower town is situated imme-
Ztely under Cape Diamond, on ground that may be termed
Sal, as formerly at flood tide the water of the nver used
Twa^ the very fcit of the rock. The "tweets mn from the
■inner side of Cape D amond, down to the St. Charles, a
ZancSabouthalfamile:theyareofconsidei-ablebreadtli.
"he houses large and commodious, those next the nver
have attached to thim very extensive warehouses, and vessels
come c^9e to the wharves to discharge the.r cargoes. The
communication between the upper -d 1«;^" ">*;"« '« »>y
a winding street, at the top of which is a fortified gate.
The upper town is the seat of the government, and the
principal residence of the military. The pecuhar situation
occasions great uregularity and unevenness in the streete.
?Many oithem aie narrow. U most of them are weU paved:
he breadth of the principal ones is thirty -two feet, others
onlyStwenty-foilr to twenty-seven feet.. The houses are
generaUy built of stone, of veiy unequal height, with sloping
roofs, but great improvement has of late years taken p^ace
in the modlof builAng, and many of the houses are modera
n their appearance, and very handsome. There are a number
of public edifices in Quebec, though none of themo remark^
uble elegance. The Ciutk, or ChaieaudeS- Lmts, is the
reskiencrof the governor. It is a plain buildmg, of common
stone,Ttid i^ an open space, "'ejiouses around whjch
form three sides of an oblong square. It consists of two parts,
the old and the new, which are -^Pf^J^d from each other by
a spacious court. The former sUnds just on the verge of an
I
188
aVIBEC — THE CHATEAU.
inaccessible partoftherock: behind .t, on the outeu^e, there
™a long gallery, from which if a pebble were dropped, rt
would fall perpendicularly for a great distance. Thw old part
rchiefly token up with the public offices, and all the apart-
me\us in it are siAall and ill contrived , but in the new part,
wWch stands in front of the other, facing the square, they
we spacious and tolerably weU finished, thoueh none of them
cin be called elegant. This part is inhabite which a few
3 guns fre planted, commanding a part of the ower
town. Every evening during summer, when the weather is
fine, one of tfie regiments of the garrison parades m the open
place before the Chateau, and the band plays for an hour or
two at which time the place becomes the resort of numbers
of the most genteel people, and has a very p»y appearance.
The interior of the castle is shown to visitors with great
readiness ; but there is nothing worthy of veiy pwticular ob-
servation. Some of the rooms are lawe and handsome, but
they are inferior in elegance to those oT manv private houses.
The furniture, with a few exceptions, is far from being splen-
did: some articles are rich, but many are hard y wortliy of
S»e distinguished place they occupy. Among 'ts cunosities
is a famous rouncf table, with a f^ff" ?•*",«="* '"*^
middle. Tins, it seems, is occupied by the host, when he
drinks wine with his friends, who are arranged round hira ,
that there may be no impediment to conviviality, nor even
the usual trouble of circulating the bottle, there is an mge-
irious machine, made of brass, and shaped «>m7^t Jl^^ »;
sextant, which can at pleasure be attached to the table, or
Te removed. The c^tre embraces a pivot, or. which it
movXand the periphery of the cii«le sustains tiie botUe :
Se m^hine revolves in the plane of a homontol circle, in
XVwords. on the circular table , this is effected merely by
touching a spring. The contrivance is certainly as important
" FrlLTh^gilety of the casUe. there is a magnificent view
V of the river md the surrounding country. The foundaUon
rfSe casUe is two hundred f«et above the nverj and though
ing
hur
star
I .m-Linr i rtr i hitiii'" r- ' ■ '^ ■-' -'-""'»^"<»"»«i" > ■ «« *> """ ■ '»" ■
IHATEAV.
nd it, on the outside, there
a pebble were dropped, it
•eat distance. Th.is old part
ic offices, and all the apart-
fived ; but in the new part,
r, facing the square, they
ished, though none of them
is inhabited by the govern-
ilt without any regularipr of
lew part liaving an uniform
th, as commonly represent-
t, is merely a parapet wall,
embrasures, in which a few
mding a part of the lower
mmer, when the weather is
jarrison parades in the open
le band plays for an hour or
lomes the resort of numbers
has a very gay api)earance.
ihown to visitors with great
vorthy of very particular ob-
re large and handsome, but
Ivose of many private houses,
tions, is far from being splen-
t many are hardly worthy of
:upy. Among its curiosities
a circular place cut in the
upied by the host, when he
tio are arranged round him ;
ent to conviviality, nor even
the bottle, there is an inge-
md shaped somewhat like a
be attached to the table, op
braces a pivot, on which it
le circle sustains the bottle ;
me of a horizontal circle, in
le 5 this is effected merely by
ance is certunly as important
B, there is a magnificent view
ing country. The foundation
t above the river; and though
IIVEBEC — PtJBlIC BnilBIICOS.
189
thi^ elevation renders it a cool and refreshing spot in tlie
heats of summer, it must make it bleak and cheerless in
'''"rhe Catholic Cathedral is a long, elevated, and plain hwU-
\ne of stone, with the spire on one side ot its front. I he
interior is neat and spacious ; and it is capable of containing
four tiiousand persons, being two hundred and sixteen feet
lonir, and one hundred and eight broad. Its appearance is
ancient and venerable, and its walls are adorned with pictures
"\\^Koiestant Cathedral is the handsomest modem buUd-
ine in the city. It is of stone, and its dimensions ai-e one
hundred and thirty-six feet long by seventy-five broad. It
stands on ground neai-ly as high as any in the place, and is
seen at a great distance. „ „ i j _„ „♦„„„
Near this church is the Cmtrt-TIouse, a handsome stone
bmlding, one hundred and thirty-six feet long and forty-four
wide. These two buddings are constructed on the site for-
merly occupied by the church and garden of tiie Recollets,
or Franciscan friars, which were destroyed by fire about
thirty years since. Considered as ornamental to the city ot
Quebec, it is to be regretted that separate situations have not
been allotted to them; and tliat in a country where pubhc
buildings, capable of attracting notice, '"'e rarely to be met
with, two edifices of such consequence should have been
placed so near to each other. . ^„*„„t
The Hotel Dieu, with its gardens, occupies a lai^ extent
of OTound. It was founded in 1638, by the Dutchess d Ai-
KuiUon, who sent from the Hospital at Dieppe, three nuns, for
the purpose of commencing this charitable and useful institu-
tion. It consiste of a superior, and twenty-seven sisters, whose
principal occupation is to assist, and to administer medjcmes
and food to invalids of both sexes, who may be sent to the
hospital, and who are lodged in wards, where great regard
is paid to cleanliness. The principal building is t^iree huii-
died and eighty-three feet long by fifty broad, and the whole
institution is conducted with a humanity, benevolence, com-
fort and eood arrangement, which do infinite credit to llie
city, and to the charitable sisterhood who preside over it.
The Convent of the Ursulinea is a square, whose sre n
one hundred and twelve feet , the institution wm foumied in
1G39. bv Madame de la Peltrie, a young widow of good family
mi
190
^rEBSC — PVBUC BVILMROB'
in France. It is possessed by a superior and tlnrty-six nuns,
wh-) ai-e chiefly engaged in the instruction of young women.
The Biskm's Palace stands near tlie grand battery, in a
very commanding situation •, it has been for several yews oc
cupied for public offices and for a library ; an annuity being
paid to the Catholic bishop. Its chapel is converted into a
hall, in which the provincial parliament holds its sessions.
The monastery, or CoUege of the Jesuits, now used for bar-
racks, is tlirce stories high, and forms a parallelogram two
hundred and twenty-four feet long by two hundred feet wide.
It was originally founded in 1635; the society of Jesiuts m
Canada at that time formed a numerous body, and their col-
lege was considered as the first institution on the continent
of North America, for the instruction of young men. The
advantages derived from it were not hmited to the better
classes of Canadians, but were extended to all whose mcLna-
tion led them to participate in them; and many students came
thither from the West Indies. From the period of tlie expul-
sion of the Jesuits from the states of Europe, and the con-
sequent abolition of their order on that continent, this estab-
lishment, although protected by the British government, be-
T^M to decline. The test member of that fraternity
di^d about twenty yea« since, and the buildings, as well as
lands, which form an extensive domain, devolved to the crown.
The landbd property was designed by the sovereign as a
recompense L the services of the late lord Amherst, who
commanded the troops in North America, at the time of the
conquest of Canada, and who completed «'e 'eduction of that
produce, under the British government. The claim to these
estates has however been relinquislied by his successor, for
a pension. The revenue arising from them, has been appro-
piSated by the Legislature of Lower Canada, to the purpose
If establishing in Qie different parishes, schools for tl»e edu-
cation of chi&ren. The Jesuite' coUege is now converted
into a commodious barrack for the troops.
The Seminary, a building of some extent, forming three
sides of a square, open towards the north-west, contains a
variety of Vpartments, suited for the accommocktion of a
certHin number of ecclesiastics, and of youn^ students, who
are of the Roman Catholic religion. Thw uistitution owes its
foundation to M. de Petre, who, in 1663, obtomed from tlve
king of France letters patent for that purpose. Tythes were
in i MiiMii i iigaii ii >aaimi i «> i iiiii. i w *
BviutiiroB.
luperior and thirty-six nuns,
nstniction of young women,
ear the grand battery, in a
ts been for several years oc-
a library 5 an annuity being
a chapel is converted into a
lament holds its sessions.
he Jesuits, now used for bar-
forms a parallelogram two
ig by two hundred feet wide.
55 ; the society of Jesuits in
imerous body, and their col-
institution on the continent
iction of young men. The
re not limited to the better
xtended to all whose inclina-
em; and many students came
rom the period of tlie expul-
tes of Europe, and the con-
on that continent, this estab-
' the British government, be-
ist member of that fraternity
and the buildings, as well as
omain, devolved to the crown,
gned by the sovereign as a
the late lord Amherst, who
1 America, at the time of the
impleted the reduction of that
remment. The claim to these
iquished by his successor, for
g from them, has been appro-
.ower Canada, to the purpose
parishes, schools for tlie edu-
its' college is now converted
the troops.
f some extent, forming three
Is the north-west, contiuns a
for tile accommodation of a
I, and of young students, who
rion. This institution owes its
o, in 1663, obuined from the
ar that purpose. Tytheswere
aUEBtC— PWDllC BCILDINGS— FOBTIFICATIONS. 101
enjoined to be paid by the inhabitants, to the directors of the
seminary, for its support; and a thirteenth in addition to what
was already the riglit of the church was levied. This regula-
tion being found too oppressive, was altered to a twenty--sixth
part of the produce, to be paid in grain ; from which tax,
newly cleared lands were exempted for a space of five yeai-s.
The members of this seminary are composed f a superior,
thrc directors and six or seven masters, who ars appointed
to instruct young men in the different branches of education
professed by each. Since the decline and extinction of Uie
order of Jesuits, the seminary, which was at first exclusively
designed for tiie education of priests, and, excepting tlie coJ-
lege of Montreal, is the dhly public establishment of the kind
ill the province, has been opened to all young men of the
Cutliolic faith, although they may not be destined for the
sacerdotal ftinctioii. The north-east aspect ot this building
is agreeable in summer, having under it a spacious garden,
which extends nearly to the precipice on tiie east, and over-
looks the lowewjiiwn. It is built of stone, forming three
sides of a square, two bundled and nineteen feet long and
one hundred and twenty broad.
The New Juil is a handsome structure of stone, standing
on very elevated ground ; it is one bundled and sixty feet
long by sixty-eight broad, and tliree stories high ; the cost ot
il exceeded fifteen thousand pounds.
The Artillery Barracks were liuilt by tlie French m 17a0.
They extend five hundred and twenty-seven feet by fort),
and contain accommodations for tlie artiller>' troops of the
garrison, work-shops, store-houses, &c. and evcr>' variety ot
small arms for twenty Uiousand men, which are always kept
fit for immediate use, and are fancifully arranged.
Next to the public buildings of Quebec, the most mteresl-
ing featui-e is its Fwtifieatiom. The lower town of course
is not included in these ; its situation is such as to render ils
defence impracticable, and thei-e is no militaiy work wiUuu
it except a small battery. But the upper town presents to a
traveller, unused to military works, a scene which he can
scaicely conceive ; seated on the summit of tlie rock, its
precipice on the south and east woidd seem to make caution
almost useless, but art has superadded her defences, and ren-
dered it impregnable. A complete wall of the heaviest hewn
stone, constructed with elegance, as well as strength, com-
192
J92 anSBEC— l<>IITinCATIO!.«.
oletely encircles the town, and is furm^hed with strong nmsy
to render escalade ve«y d'^cu^^ ano a o Abraham,
less, in ^»»«=,^t"CWftT£?tSckrand equally high
they appear to be torty »•'"">•.. 'k are surmounted
Even the >ofty,precip.ceB of naked rocKM^^^^^^^
^Ith a stone l^-^^^tTS^ctZZe. ^n genen>l.
are crowned with towers ana musketry, and pro-
the curtanis of the wall »« ;^°P., towards the assailants,
iecting bastions present their artillifyto^ ^^^ ^.^^^^^^
in every direction, and of ^'^'"^f'^^'Z^, .. says Mr. Silli-
.. Wfien we visited the plains of Abr« g^^^^^ ^,,
man, » we drove out and '"J^y.J.l'^and nearly as high ; this
wall appeared to be fifty feet Uiick, ana ne^^ 6^^ ^^^
was the>dgment we formed.^^^^^^ ^„^ ^
say, without n;«^?«;«r"f;Jtr waS, and another ditch, both
there is an extenor, b«t low" w«^ ^^^ ^^
of which must be ^^aled. before the ma ^^ ^^^
proached. A s™"^ Pa^y * J%he M^ to the gate
Uile mounting this extenor w Jl. ^^;^,\„j ^^kes severJ
is bounded on both sides by ah^ghj"^. .^^ ^-,,^^^1 ^t
turns in zigzag. At eveiy turn, ^^^«^ P ^it^h. and in
the approaches, and g«"™A°°^ik can L approached, ,
evei7 possible direcuon, Wiethe waus |^, highest |
great guns are ready to c«t ^?*" J^""' ^j ^ is a mould artih-
Jartof the citadel " B""^'^:,^ S' le, and mounted with
?ially raised, h gher th»^eve^ thm^ ^.e, ^^^^ ^^ ,
cannon, nointing ^o^'S^ f%C fell at Queenston during
named ahcr G^n^"^! ^rocje^J^^^^^^
the late war, about the t^^n^ J*" J'"" jhig commands every
Generals Wilkinson and lUmp^^^^ ^
part of the works on that «f ^'.*"V to operate, in the
&s the general «bjecte of de^ce t p^^^^^ ^
last resort, on an ^^^-^y 'J^oSSmck with the formida-
« We were ho^^::? V ^I ."^ 1 ^des to render an attack
ble preparations, which seem on an «dte» to ^^^ ^^,^
rnJi:r£^^^a»S?{^^^^
,fi
IFICATIOSIS'
, furnished with strong massy
ditches. . . . . ,
h, in different parts, in height
wever, they are high enough
, and a breach almost hope-
•xt to tlie plwns of Abraham,
feet tliick, and equally high,
naked rock are surmounted
inon; and the highest points
istinct batteries. In general,
oped for musketry, and pro-
rtillary towards the assailwits,
r8e8oastorakethcdit(^>es.
,8 of Abraham," says Mr. S.lh-
the gate St. Louis, where die
hick, and nearly as lugh ; this
, without inquiry-t need no
deep ditch succeeds, and then
• w^l, and another ditch, both
fore the main wall can be ap-
would be dreadfully exposed,
wall. The avenue to the gate
a high wall, and makes severi^
urn, cannon P"'"). '»''^«=*^y, f^
illy, down even- ditch, and in
re the walls can be approached,
awn the assailants. The highest
batteiy, which is a mould artih-
%iing else, and mounted with
7e plams of Abraham. I w^
, who fell at Queenston during
aiat Montreal was tlireatened by
mpton. This commands every
?andisintended, I presume,
, of defence, to operate, in the
o may scale aU the other walK
forcibly sU-uck with the fonn.^-
n on all sides to render an attack
^e^terprise. Within tliew^l
rumished with every implement
oXpi^ •«»•"«» tMCb
*nnon.bails «« everywhere to be
dCEBEC — FOKTIFICATIOSS — ENVIB0W8.
193
seen, and I presume there are some hundreds of heavy
cannon mounted on the walls, and in Uie various defences.
About forty acres of ground, within Cape Diamond, are re-
served for military works. Beyond the walls, on the plains
of Abraham, are the four Martello towers; they are solidly con-
structed of stone, and appear to be forty feet high, and at the
base have probably a diameter not much inferior; as they have
cannon on their tops, they of course sweep the whole plain,
and effectually command it ; the particular object of the con-
struction was to prevent an enemy from occupying the high
ground on the plains of Abraham. These towers are very
strong on the side most remote from the town, and weaker
on the side next to it, that they may be battered from it, should
an enemy obtaun possession of them.
" On the whole, as long as the river is in possession of those
who defend the town, and as long as the latter is suiBciently
furnished with men, and other means necessary to render its
fortifications efficient, there appears little hope <* ^KinS '*
at all, and certainly not without such an expense of blood, as
it is very painful to contemplate. An officer of the garrison
informed us, that it took him one hour and a half, merely to
visit all the sentinels on duty, upon the various stations on
the walls; this appears to evince, that tlie walls cannot be
much less than tiiree miles in circuit ; and the same military
man gave it as his opinion, that it would require at least
ten thotisand men for a complete gamson."
The environs of Quebec include many objects which are
worthy of a travellei-'s notice ; and from the summit of the
citadel, a circuit of ten miles will embrace places which are
interesting from historical associations and natural curiosities.
To the north we see at our feet the River St. Charles, spread-
ing widely as it enters the St. Lawrence; along its shores are
wharves and warehouses, and the lower town is fast encroach-
ing upon it ; after winding along for some distance to the
westward, it turns to the north, its banks well cultivated, and
here and there adorned with villages, till it finds its source in
the same highlands from which the larger nver of Jacquea
Cartier also flows. . t u
Among these villages, the principal one is Jeune larette,
nine miles north-west of Quebec, commanding, by its elevat-
ed position, an extensive view of the river St. Lawrence, ot
Quebec and the intermediate countiy, of the southern coast,
R
mi
\*,
194 JK""" 10H«TTE— CHABtBlOtJRO.
States. The vUkpe. which conta^^up^^^^^^^ ^^
inhabitants, '^'^''^'''^ fy^~J!;\^^e,,r^ncc. The chapel
wood and stone, »»«! ,'^*« * P'^!,^^,^^^* to a consider-
i» small but neat? and as tlie parish *^"^ f"^.i,_ o^^-atest
rbHsUnce around, the Canadians, who fom. the preat^^^^^
to ""PH"; "^.■'•"S'l'^'.f owle. K.11. O.CT „ strap »rd ii-
the rushing waters, ine ^*V'"J . -^^ g oomy
extensive prospect. „„rfu -„cf Hie northern shore of
CRARLSBOORO.
rate Canada from the Unite.)
aina upwards of two hundred
fifty houses, constructed ot
tty appearance. The chapel
.arish extends to a consider-
tdians, who form the greatest
rocurcd a church to be erect.
)out a e r,ver bk.^^ ^^^. ^^ ,jg,,^
Buspended in the air in a <»n«e^ "' - i beauty, only re-
r«y. like the thin veil "»""!£ J^h surface irf the tor-
vU with more '«ft""'"*!'^h wffin S P«»ents for ever
rent, and the ,'*'"*'°''' "'^J^it aw^Vg»ori«""«'«"^-
on the fleecv cloudy >w *»»«y "X, ndrc< feet. The basin ii
The bre«ltA of *e M » «"^^"7 J^^^^^^ ,ute. lying
bounded by steep cliffs, '^'^^^J\^lest sides are sub-
in incUned strata. >«'»»'^^/". ^^.f.'S fSpninf?, with the hori-
divided ■^^'<>^::^Z^''^t^^::^J^Ltmn« between
s.Sf'rwS?.-''^-^"^^^^^^^^^
nVSrrToVnorth.^Wo^^^^^^^
venerable rviinsoi CA"''-" ^' J^^'^^^nciscan monastery,
ing fiom the St. ^^^^^^J^^^xfl encamped on the east-
wfien the armv uiulcr General WoUe encamp ^^.^ .^
«m bank of t6e Montmorenc • As the mon* ^^ ^
fluence among, the '"hab|^n^ '» *^^;',*'^?^^^ ^^^^^^ „e.
•upply <»f P^'^X^a detSSenttomke them prisoners,
cessary to send thither » **«**"'""7";.,u;_ their mansion, that
xlJ^had »ofortified.thenMelves w'U^m -heir^ ^^^
field pieces were required tocom^emem ^^^.^^ ^^
house was destroyed by fi^. .^f Jif»„ adjoining tower,
cept a part of the waUs. »«* t^emins « an J ^_6^ ^^^^^
By an rnKsription »bove the door, it app^ .^ j^^j
bilt upwai^ of a century ago. The pam^^^ ^v^ ^\
on a bank immediately behmd the cnaie, ^^^^ ^^^
mire.. The «iene *»»I^»' *^\f .^ ^ •<• « »t once the
bWd together, is one «'f.f!f,,^renks clothed with foli-
wins of 5ie monastery, ^f.^.'^V'^^'S white cottages, over
•^^••r?»f?^mElnJ«^J chll^" mountai.^ whose
SJiSit^WerwH^
JrSXXuTa^nr.; erdirectlyatthefo.]
— «RATEAtl miCB«».
■e received into the boiUng,
:brate.l Fall of Mmtm^ntci,
i in magnificence. The effect
ver, like a white ribbon, seems
et of biUowy foam s the Ught
1 the form of beauty, only re-
iirht smooth surface of the tflf-
jlthin arch, presents for ever
loat away, its glorious coloun.
e hundred feet. The »>asm »
Hjsed of grey lime slate, ly^ng
Ke east and west sides are sub.
layers, forming, with the hon-
g^Cand containing between
^e a la calumet. MouUennK
xposure to the air, and to the ^
ace for vcgeUUon remains upon ^
it, beyond Montmorenci, are ^e
.Wseated on a rocky chff m-
It was a Franciscan monastery,
J Wolfe encamped on the east-
" As the mon\cs used their in.
^ti in their vicinity, to impede a
English army, itwas deemed ne-
,chmcnttomake.thempnsone«
selves within their mansion, that
, compel them to surrender. 1 he
. . and nothing now remains, ex- i
1 the ruins of an adjoining tower,
e door, it appears to have been
«o. The pirfsh church is placed
rndtheCliateau,andhastwo
hU objects present, when con.
rreat beauty ; we n.-e at once the
Church, banks clothed with fob-
iedwith white cottages ove
id the chain of mountains whose
r with exalted majesty. .
view, as we turn more to the south.
S, appears directly at the fool I
POIKT ttVl — CHADDIBBB FAtlS.
i9r
ot Cane Diamond, and as we look down it, the beauuful is e
of oTans spreatlH in its centre. Iti.lng from the mer. in
"ome parts w"th steep and womly banks, in others with more
I"c^Uc^^ent, it presents to the eye an agreeable object. It.
^earcstToint is sU miles north-east of Quebec. The Jail of
Montmorenci discloses itself from this island, amidst a rich
,„T eiXnting combination of features. The central part
Sotlledwithtrees,andtheground.slopesfromi^^^^^^^
side, while few eminences occur to mterrupt the view. At
?„.owcr extremity of the island, there are situa ions no le«
boU than picturesque. The northern shore is mterspersed
^" h mmcnsc masJes of detached limestone rock, and the
.0 thXis clothed with u.ctothe borders of the great
S from either are seen Cape 'lou-ment, and the isles and
mmii tains named ks KbouknmU<, which pierce the clouds
wh their pointed summits. The soil of the '"•and » in ge.
nrral fertile, aflbrding more produce Uian is necessary lor
the consumption of its iTihabitantJi. „ .v. s» i aw
Counting round to the south, and crossing the St Law-
rpnce the first object that attracts our notice is the bold
nmm^ntmy of PoiU Uvi, rising from the river direcUy op-
^ostHolTcauport, and about a mile . due east from Cape
Cond. It s veiy lofty, but not quite so high as the for-
t^^srand wL the spot on wl.icl. General VVoUe had directed
batti-ries to be placed during the siege.
Proceeding up the south shore of th« river, opposite to
the city, we piss the small stream of Echfmin, at whose
mouth we several mills , and about eight miles above, reach
the Chaudiere, a large river flowing trom the south. On it,
four inUes above its entrance into the St Lawrence, are the
S; which are well worth a visit: their breadth at he
summit is about one hundred and twenty yard.s and in the
sS7of the year the waters flow abundantly, swoln by
the ncrease which tliey receive from the dissolving snows
In ecountry ti^ugl/whichthey run. and from tributary
stream^ which at this season arc likewise augmented by
?he same causes. The waters descend from a height of one
hundred and twenty feet, and being separated by rocks.
foZthree distinct cataracts, the largest of which is on the
v^tem side, and they unite in Uie basin beneath, their broken
Td agitated waves.' The wUd diversity displayed on the
bmk^of the rtrwm, and the foliage of the overhangmg
b3
IM
r*fl IIOCOB— »iM.k«i— ^"f '» •■'""^'
woodi. the brilliancy of coloun richly contnutcd, the rapKiit \-
of motion, the effulgent briBhtne»H of the cataractn, the
andwleinn iound which they emit, and the variouii cascade*
further down the river, unite in rendering thw aucli a plcus-
itw exhibition of natural objccU as few icencs can mirpass.
CroMinK the St. Lawrence, we find, nearly op|io«ite, on
iU northern shore, the promontory of" Crt^jefloii*''. eiffht mile,
^ove Cape Dia-.nond. It is a very loftj; bank, sudden jr de-
clininir to a valley, through which a small riv
IT,
cuninir w avauuy, luivvntu "•...-.. - -...—- , ^
a lake situated among the mountam» on the north, runs in o
the 8t Lawrence. K ilate-.tonc, of a reddish colour, easily
mouldering into thin »traU, is found at the .urtace, on the
summit of the bank. , „ ■ . ,„ ,.„„u
Proceeding down the river towanls Qucl.ei;, wo reach
Silkry, three miles above it, where are the rui.w ot a irehgi-
ous institution, established in 1637 for the conversion and
instruction of natives of the country. ii the viciiiity, Uio
Algonquins once had a village. Several of their tumuli or
burvini places are still discoverable in the woods ( and hie-
rogWhics, cut on the trees, remain in some situations yet
A mile below SiUery is Wolfe's Cove, the spot where that
celebrated ireneral disembarked his army, previous to the
batUe on the plains above. The bank ot the nver » here
extremely abrupt and precipitous, rising to the elevation ol
two hundred feet ; and on its summit is a fine level surtacc,
forming the Heights of Abraham, rising nearly to the same
hciirht as Cape Diamond, and forming the only point from
which the fortress could be attacked with any prospect ol
success. .I, , 11 L
Before leaving Quebec, we may gratify the traveUer by a
few historical reminiscences. Neariy a century had elapsed
from the period at which Jacques Cartier explored the St.
Lawrence, before any other intercourse witli Canada was
c« ed on, than that of the hunters and traders who visited
it to obtain furs. In the beginning of the seventeenth nm-
tun-, however, Samuel de Champlain, geographer to tne
kinsr of France, a man of enterprise and talent, actuated by
liberal sentiments, and by patnoUc more Uian bjr intereited
wews, after having sm-veyed the borders of the nvcr lor tne
choice of a situation presenting the greatest conremences
for » settlement, gave the preference to an elevated pKHnon.
— woi,ri» rori:.
chly contrMted, the Mpuiit\-
:im of the catftTOctn, the deop
lit, and the varioiw cascwlr*
rendering this »uch a plcus-
as few icenes can mirpats.
ve find, nearly op|io«ite, on
J of Cape Ewifff, eiffht milc-t
ery lofty bank, sudaenly dc
h a small river, the outlet of
tain* on the north, runs into
;, of a reddish colour, easily
bund at the surface, on the
towanls Quol)ei;, wc reach
lere are the ruins of a ireli|i^-
1637 for the conversion and
Buntry. In the vicinity, tlio
, Several of their tumuli or
rablc in the woods \ and hie-
inain in some situations yet
Ys Cove, the spot where that
!d his army, previous to the
he bank of the river is here
lus, rising to the elevation of
mmmit is a fine level surface,
tm, rising nearly to the gam's
1 forming the only point from
ttackcd with any prospect of
may pfratify the traveller by a
Nearly a century had elapsed
lues Cartier tixplored the St.
intercourse with Canada was
inters and traders who visited
ming of the seventeenth «en-
hamplain, geographer to the
irprise and talent, actuated by
;notic more tlian by intereited
he borders of the river for the
ng the greatest coaTemencea
ference to an elevated pnKnoa'
ItrClIC— ■ISTOHf'
m
forv between the St. Lawrence and the smaU river St.Charlei.
nV>«Hrrted,that some of hi. attcndanU havmg pronounced.
0.S view of this point of land the words " Uuel bee,"
ihuniiilain bestowed that name on his projected town, fly
others it has been said, that the place .(enved lU name from
"iuebeio," an Indian word. ^llJ"'[y "K- '." i^e l«ngu;g« of
tl.. Algonquins, 'narrow.' . ere being just at Uuebec a
* ';'ralt:rhe'3d"o7 July. 1608, ttot Champhin founded
..iitown on the site of an Indian v Hag., -die' HUjco"**
■ind it rcnuuned undisturbed a« » French colon, until lt>/\f,
then it >^takei by the English, by whom however it wa.
Ir^dThree years after In im. it . .« nuule a royal go-
v^rnment,^»d became a r.„. ,lar and importal.t colony. In
rGW.8"r William Phipp*. with a great armament from Do^
oTattocked, cannoniled, and a.Ml.d an army bc^^^^^^^^
wa repulsed with great »<>«»"'» ^»K!-t««'? I.^ij, Sir Ho-
uttempt was again made by an Ei.g hsh fleet u«l" 9^"°
vcnden Walker, who was wrecked in the Ht. Lawrence,
o^nr.eVen.rf hi. largest ships and three thousand men,
S Genel^ Nicholson, who was anproaching with an army
bv the way of Montreal, was obliged to retreat.
^n 1759 it WM airain attacked by the English , and in tlus
aitempt ?hey wer^Cre successful. It was taken, but at a
de!r cost-tL hfc of the gallant Wolfe. The llriUsh gxivern-
menu^vinrcarried on tL war with France, on the Amen-
TancoSnenVfoTa longtime without any decisive success.
leSSed at length to adopt a plan n'o%«^f"'l*l »g
viirorous. It waa concerted to attack the French at their
ud stronghold, at once , tlat General Wolfe, who had
J?eTnently Sisti..gtiijhed h™*lf at the sjege of L«„«.
bourg, should proceed up the viver 8*. !;*««»««. r^™^»
hodvof eiriit thoiuand men. and a stout fleet from England,
aSbesieSthedwof Quebec , that Genend Amherst, com-
S^der in chief rf the British force, in North Amenca.
ZSd wto .n army of twelve ^"^ rhllJ^Siidn and^ P~-
derogaand Cxiwn Pomt. cros. Lake C»»^y^»""' •" rf^^e
ceSSur bv the way of Richlieu river to the bank, of the
St iMKeioin General Wolfe in hiv attempt upon
ti S rfCawSir^ dut Brigadiei-Geaeral Pndeaui^
lith^ffilm^rrdnforced by a^body of pmmcials and
200
«,VE&£C — HlSTOm.
friendly Indians under Sir WilU.m Johnston, .hould inve.t
the important fo^rew ofN-aga^ p^j^^
In pursuance of *« pl*". Ticonderoga aji
ed the island of 0'-»«»"^' ^^"^."i^Ss for the security
northern bank of the St. Lawrence, " ^ ^ ^j^ i^tter.
Charies and Montmorcnc,. ^^e"" f * exten*n|j ^^
They had also some art.Uenr ^^^^^^J^^^l"^ Monkton
the opposite, shove, from «:*»'''» »Xve them He passed
was sent with four battahons^odr^c th^em^^ ^^^^
the river on the n'S^t of the 2m ^na >«*' ^, troops
day to the Point, whence '^«-,*%V"oct onthisocca-
to^retire, and possessed ^'^If «f ^'"^^ Pf ^^i^i^hes with
sion. the =^vanced parties had two or thees^^^^^
the Canadians and Indians, *>"' '"Y^ Quebec, with sis-
The French soon ^ft^^PJ^T^eTwlZnton, bit fell into
teen hundred men, to a"ack Genetal MonKto , ^^
confusion, fi^^ on one ^ t^^^^^^^
^te"^:^";?oirdet£:dV£g^^^^^
sures. and to attack J'^.^^X^irXtdtt^e where
position of great strength. ""J/VS^'^^t ^^ Jouth of the
the attack should be "»«!«' w?"*=^*^")^ers^^
Montmorenci. thirteen com^s^
'■- . . . ^i j »ta8ft»;ig . «!gft- --
■BISTOKT.
ilUam Johnston, should invest
T^nderoga and Crown Point
erst, and aftera battle under
riairara in triumph. The wma-
saUcd up the river St Law-
any interruption, or perceiving
penis, with which it had been
was attended. Having reach-
leneral Wolfe landed his forces
rected works for the security
The Fren'li were encampeU,
A men, under the Marquis de
erienced commander, along the
wrence, between the "vers °t.
heir left extencUng to the latter.
y and a force at Po'"* J;*'*'' ""
lich Brigadier-General Monkton
jns to i&ive them. He passed
tie 29th, and marched the next
he obliged the enemy's troops
nseif of that post : on this occa-
dad two or three skirmishes with
. with little loss on either side.
Ud over from ft"«bec, with sa-
k General Monkton, but fell into
ther, and retreated bac^^ V»5
rerely cannonaded and bombardea
but although his fire was quite
town, and very injurious to the
made no serious impression on us
•e nearly as tenable as ever,
led at length to adopt bolder mea-
lemy, stationed as they were m a
Having selected the place where
le, which was at the mouth of the
npanies of m-enadiers were landed
oY July, under Generals Townsend
rders. Immediately on caching the
on the beach? but insteaa of doing
1, from the noise and hvjry of thetf
BATTU or WOHTMOBBKCI.
201
landinir. or from an incautious ardour, they rushed impetu-
oS tow"'i» *e enemy's intrenchments in the utmost di^
SSLonfusion, without waitingfor the comswhichi^re
towstsun them and join in the attack. In this state, they
le^ met by a severi and steady fire from the enemy's m-
rrirchmenS by which they we're thrown into still greater
coSn, and which obliged them at length to shelter them.
Sbehind a redoubt, Qiat the French had abandoned on
SaSSThisrepulse destroyed the plan which Gene-
S w5Fe^ formed , and m night was coming: on, and Ae
Se beginnmg to make, he had no alternative but to retire
to his camp across the river. , „.t.:„K i»o
ThiuTnded the batUe of Montmorency one wtodihw
slway* been considered as rash, and which the .gaUw't^hitf
Elf excuaed. only on the ground of a desire to act in
Sraiity tothe intention, of his eovenunent, «¥"»<«
Ae coSe of his troops. The result, however, caused hm
exti^^X^cation : his soul was sensitive as it was brave:
he weTtaewtite capricious character of his nation, clamor,
ous^ven to persecudon against those who miscarried m their
u^S?gJ^out Sding whether that -n^cwnage
"rwe from Mcident or fault, while success was app]wded
w^tTwUdestenthusiasm, and witi. as htUe reason. Among
rtiose who shared his confidence, he was often observed to
S- he was often heard to complain, and evei^ m the tma-
^rte of Ws chairrin. he declared, that he would never return
So^^ccT^ be exp^ as other unfortunate com-
manders had been, to the censure and reproach of an igno-
wS ^trfS populace. This tumuH of mind, a^ded
rthTbyfetigue L had undergone, pioduced.a fever
^nddvsS-.&which for some time he was t,otelly disabled.
iSKcS^ess, however, his daring and mtrepid jmnd
supMrted to him a plan, the seeming nnpossibihty of whidi
SpTexcited m^ strongly his &termined valour :-thig
SS at^ck the enemy on ?he Pl'i'" ^f J)^ "S^s
ciW. The rituation of that place, and ^e abrupt P««'P'«««
bv which it is guarded, we have already described, and »
K Wea ha^ tK^tious Montcalm that ™ch a spot could
ever become the scene of conflict, that he had orJy a lew
JZfa stationed there. Breaking up the camp at Montm^
S.ncL the besiceinjr army were conveyed up the nver, ana
Encamped on tSI Sfuthe^ shore, some distance above ftue-
t
Art
mz
«,V£BBC — HI8T0BT.
bee. General Montcalm despatched a corps of obscnation
after them, consisting of one thousand five hundrwl men,
undfer General Bougainville, biit still maintained his staUon
with the main army at Bcauport. „• j„;„t.» pp
On the 12th of September, one hour after midnight, ge-
neral Wolfe, with his army, leaving the ships, embarked in
boats, and silently dropped down with the cuiTent, intending
to land a league above Cape Diamond, and thus gain the
heights of Abraham. As they passed along, an unexpected
obstacle had nearly defeated'all their plans. The l->ench
had posted sentinels along the shore, to challenge boata and
vessels, and give the alarm when necessaiy. A» *hp <««* ^oat
passed, one of them accordingly cried out, "Qui vit>" (Who
Soes ttiere?) It fortunately happened that there was in it
rSiptain who had served in Holland, and was famihar with
the French language and military customs-he P«"nptly re-,
Sied in the prop« word. "La France!" The next quesUon
^as much mor^ embarrassing, for the sentinel demanded,
"A quel regiment'" (To what regiment?) The captain,
who happened to know the name of one of the regiments
which was up the river with BougalnviUe, promptly rejoin-
ed, "DelaReine." (The Qucen^s.) The soldier immedi-
ately repUed, " Passe." for he concluded at once, t^* ^*
was a French convoy of provisions, which, as the English
had learned, was expected to pass down «ie nverto Quebec.
The other sentinels were deceived in a similar manner ; but
one. less credulous than the rest, running down to the water s
edge, called out, " Pourquoi est ce que vous ne parlez plus
hiwt>» (Why don't you speak louder?) The same captain,
wiU. perfect self-command, replied, " Tai to., nous serons
entendues!" (Hush, we shall be overheai-d and discovered!)
The sentrv', satisfied with this caution, retired.
A little farther on. they made another hair-breadth escape.
In the early part of the evening, two French deserters were
carried on board a ship of war. commanded by Captain Smith,
and lying at anchor near the northern shore. They told him
that Uie gaiTison of Quebec expected that night to receive a
convoy of provisions, to be sent down the nver m boats from
the detachment above, commanded by M. de Bougainville.
These deserters, standing on deck, and perceivnng the Eng-
lish boftts with the troops gliding down the nver in the dark,
began to shout and make a noise, declaring that they were
iVBMtf' .IjJ ^
ISTOBT.
DIATH or WOHE.
203
tched a corps of obscnation
housand five hundrwl men,
It still maintained his station
t.
»nc hour after midnight, Ge-
ving the ships, embarked in
n with the cuiTcnt, intending
)iamond, and thus gain the
passed along, an unexpected
11 their plans. The French
shore, to challenge boats and
n necessary. As the first boat
yr cried out, « Qui vit?" (Who
mpened that there was in it
loUand, and was familiar wth
iry customs — he promptly re-,
France!" The next question
; for the sentinel demanded,
rt regiment ?) The captain,
ame of one of the regiments
ougainville, promptly rejoin-
;en's.) The soldier immedi-
B concluded at once, that this
isions, which, as the English
)ass down the river to Quebec,
ived in a similar manner ; but
it, running down to the water's
:st ce que vous ne parlez plus
louder>) The same captwn,
'eplied, " Tai toi, nous serons
je overheai-d and discovered!)
caution, retired.
e another hair-breadth escape.
»g, two French deserters were
commanded by Captain Smitli,
orthern shore. They told him
cpected that night to receive a
it down the river in boats from
anded by M. de Bougainville,
ieck, and perceiving the Eng-
mg down the river in the dark,
oise, declaring that they were
navt of the expected convoy. Captwn Smi*. who was ig-
K of GeneWl Wolfe's design, bel^vmg the.r f^^^^
had actually given orders to point the guns at the British
t^p^i wlJn^he general, percemng « c»'«™«f «XK
rowed alongside in person, and prevented tlie «;«:|^»^««'
which would have alirmed the town, and entirely frustrated
*''HS''f«rt«n»tely escaped these difficulties, the boat^
rfided cenUy along , but, owing to the rapidity of the tide
KeCLss of the night. tLy P-- ^^^Se b'eSw
had been fixed on, and the troops were landed a little below,
J^e spot wiSch as we have motioned, still bears the naine
of Wolfe's Cove. The gallant gene.*l immediately sprang
onshore, and was followed in <'l'^"<=«/y fi a3;esTSd
runred precipices, full of projccUons of rocks, and * eesana
Ss (Sowing everywhere among the cl.l s into which the
S wrbrof en, presented a most fo^'^«l^"?^^PP^»;^^^
nnd General Wolfe, tamiliarly speaking to an otticer « « 9to<^
near him. stud, "I don't believe ^''^^ « j'^^.P^^^.J^^^
Retting up, l>ut you must do .your endeavo.u-. There was
f^ty a^naS;>w patb, Icadinir obliquely up the h. . «nd f.«n
this^vasintren4ed,anddcti.ndedbyac«ptuln•sguard. These
difficulties did not abate the hopes o» the geneml, or Uie ar-
dour of tiie troops. Tl.c light infantry under Colonel Howe.
a^"nghold ofsluM.ps and bougli. of Uc.s, P"ll<--d themselves
uoTlodscdthe guards, and cleared the path. 1 he rest of
Z soE sunnouuling cve.y difficulty, gained the top of
the hilt and as fast >*. thoy a:«;endcd, formed tl.cmselves, so
tliat thev were all in order of battle at day-break.
Monlcalm, when he heard that the Eughsh l';f »»penJ«J
the hill, and were fovn.cd on the lugl. gi-ound f the ^ack of
the town, seal celv credited the intelligence, and still beheved
i a feint to induce him to abandon that strong P»*t. **"«^
hud been the object of all the real attem{>t. that Jad beea
made since the beginning of tht campaign. But he was
""o^and fataUy for\ini, undeceived. He saw cleariyti.^
the English fleet and army were in such a situation, that the
upper 5nd lower towuo might be attacked m conceit, and
"hauio^ng but a battle could prevent it. Accordingly, he
determined to emfuge hi- enemy without delay, ="'d H»^t«.^
Ueauport, crossed liie river St. Charles, andfurinea his Uoopt
oppoite to those of General Wolfe. .
204
^VKBCC— 'IIIITORr.
Led on by such coimnanders, the battle, « it was etidcr^
it nf^t be, w« contested on both sides with unepmp ed
b»vS and skill. About nine o'clock in the mommg, the
i3^vanced to the charge, with &^»t order and mac.^
ty, though their fire was irregular and 'neffcrtual. On the
contrary: the British forces reserved their shot until the
^eSad approached within forty yards ot their line: they
tt[en poured ^n a terrible discharge, and continued the fire
wTth Lch deliberation and spirit, as couW not fail to pro-
dTe a very considemble tffect. General Wolfe wa. station,
ed on th^right, at the head of his favounte regiment and
a cZs of S«««liers, .There the attack was mort warm.
^Tst^ wnspicuJus in the front of the Une, he had been
^ed at by the enemy's marksmen, and received a shot m
tiie wrist, ^hich however, did not oblige him to quit the
field Havinir wrapped a handkerchief round his hand, he
continuK^inThl^orders without the lei«temoUon, and
Svanced afthe^ead of t^e. grenadiers, with thjrbayoneU
fixed, when another ball pierced the breast of the young
hero. It was not till that moment, that he 9«»"n'««d to ^^
carried into the rear of the line , he was no longer able to
S, and ?eined his head upon the shoulder of a heutenan^
Tho Lt down for the purpose , when, bemg «««"«d by the
distant sound of"theyfly,they fly!'' he eagerly Mke4"^^^^^^
fly ?" and being told it was the French, he "=?»««!, "then I
die happy." He asked to be sustained on his feet, that he
might Snce more behold the field, but his eyes were akeady
TwEng in death, his vision was gone, and he expured on
^'Tmde stone marks the place where the hero drew W.
last breath • and every wandering ttiiveller is anxious to bear
atay^lSt^ent! J?>ich may remind him of the emotions
tliat^filled his breast, as he lingered p.. tlus scene of long pasl
Clory. The phUanthropist and phdosopher may pity or de-
spis; the feelings which arc excited wh^" we contempla e
the death of a gallant warrior, on the field of battle, and in
tJe moment of%icto,y. but t»»ey are feedings imptented^n
our nature, whichcannot be repressed; the memory of his
^loitsbfondly dwelt on, long '^ter the soWier has mod-
de^ into dust 'and perhaps every manly bowm has knowi
the moment when it swelled with the;"'"" •!j*'\«£;XM^f
ham, that, to press some well fought and hard won field of
RIITOKT.
I, the battle, a« it was eridcnl
both sides with unexampled
le o'clock in the monung, the
e, with great older and vivaci-
jular and ineflTectual. On the
reserved thew shot until the
\ forty yards of their line: they
charge, and continued the fire
pint, a» couW not fwl to pro-
it. General Wolfe was station-
l of his favourite regiment and
; the attack was most warm,
e front of the line, he had been
ksmen, and received a shot in
id not oblige him to quit the
ndkerchief round his hand, he
ivithout the least emotion ; and
rrenadiers, with their bayonets
erced the breast of the young
>ment, that he submitted to be
line ! he was no longer able to
jon the shoulder of a lieutenant,
e ; when, being aroused by the
ey fly ! " he eagerly asked, ** who
he French, he replied, "then, I
be sustained on his feet, that he
field, but his eyes were abeady
n was gone, and he expired on
place where the hero drew Wi*
ering traveller is anxious to bear
ay remind him of the emotions
ngered on tlijs scene of long past
and plillosopher may pity or de-
e excited when we contemplate
or, on the field of battle, and in
t tl»ey are feelings implanted in
le repressed? the memory of his
long after the soldier has moul-
ts every manly bosom has known
I with the wish of the gallant Gr«-
rell fought and hard won field of
DKiTH OF MOSTCALM.
305
i.attle. and to die with the shout of victory in our ears, would
be worth dying for— would be worth having lived for.
In the plaudiU of the victorious hero, let us not forget Ins
noble antagonist. Montcalm was mortally wounded »t the
head of his troops. He survived long enough to wiite a let-
ter, with hii own hand, to the Englisli general, recommend-
ing the French prisonere to his humanity ; and, when in-
formed that his wound was moital, he exprcMcd great satis-
faction that he should ntk live to see the fidl of Quebec.
.Montcalm's second in command. General Scnezcrgus, also
died of his wounds. , . ,. i _ r
The victory was of course followed by the surrender ot
Quebec, and soon after by the subjugation of the entnc pro-
vince : it thus becomes an important feature m the history ot
America ; as it terminated a long course of bloody wars, aiul
even contributed, in no small degree, to the general pacifi-
caUon of Europe. In the following spnng. Monsieur Lev.,
with a considerable army, leaving his encampment at Mont-
real, proceeded down to Quebec, in order to attempt its re-
covenr from the English. General Murray, who comnwnded
ill the city, on his approach marched out to meet hrni? anU
on the 28th of April, 1760. a bloody batt e occurred, three
miles above Quebec, at Sillety ; the English army, very much
inferior in numbers to the French, was severely defeated,
with the loss of one thousand men ; and the I rench, it is said,
suffered still more. The EnitUsh retreated into the town , ui^-
on which the French immediately invested it, and very possi-
hlv would have reduced it, but for the arrival of an bnglish
squadron, with reinforcements, when they abandoned the
sieee, and retired up the river. ,^ , r
NoUiine interesting occurred in the history of Quebec, from
this peri^, until the time of oui- revolutionary war, when
we tave again to record the death of a hero beneath its walls.
In the latter p^irt of the year 1775, the provincial Congress
determined no longer to act on the defensive against Uic
British, but to cany the war into the Canadas. 1 here were
many circumstances which pointed out tiie propnety ot such
a course. Geneial Carleton, a man of great energy and en-
terprise, had been sent out with extraordinary powers, such
as no Kovemor before hiin had ever been mtnisted with. It
was iMOwn that he was exerting aU his efforts to excite the
Canadians and Indians, and stimulate them to arms against
S
206 *BIB1C — HI»TOB».
the colonies. The dispositions of the people of Canada were
well known sUU to be French at heart, and even somewhat
Se U was known, besides, that they cherished a sullen
dts^ontcnt on account of the Quebec Act, J«*t passed by
tl^BS Parliament, which, though favourable to the.r
reLion replaced them in their ancient dependence towards
Jhe nobles! whom they detested. In addition to these advan-
taees, which the moment offered, the province of Canudu
wL^iXmished with troops of the line: they having all
bein S to Boston. And above all. Congress had been
hiformed that, in the following spring, the government was
to S a erind effort from this quarter, that numerous
forcM, armsfand munitions, would be poured into it, in
oXr to auapkthe colonies intheback: «7P«»^^' ^J^J'
if not seasonably prevented, m.gh produce fe*^ «=»"^^
auences. In addition to this, Ticonderoga and Crown Point
were bo* in Uie possession of the Americans, and the EngUsh
^prshuTup in Boston, and occupied wth their own de-
S, were in no situation to carry succours into a part so re-
mote from the provinces of the confederation.
AUThese favourable circumstances co-operating, it was
defern^iied to sen,' an army into Canada, and Genemls Mont-
SSS Schuyler, with three thousand men, were direct-
Id to proceed on the enterprise. The latter, however, owing
to £K was detained aj Albany , ''f „t'-^-"^- ^""^^"hl
of the expedition devolved on General Montgomenr. The
first obioct of attack was St. John, on the river Sorel. which
w"sSrmoned by two regiment^ and well suppbed with
rmmEn. stores and arWlery. After a siege of hve weeks
Te place st^endered at discretion to the Americans. They
luoCk ChambU, a small fort in the "«'& '^ouriiood, and
mashed on to Montreal, of which, being ""^f "f.f/.f «^'
eomeiy took possession, without resistance. In aU his miU-
SrSeratio^ however, in all that he wrote and spoke.
S in all his^tions, this noble officer behaved w.Ui an ur-
banity and nobleness of spirit, which captivated the affections
of foes as well as friends. At Montreal, a place tliat could
demnd of rig^^^^^^ he published a voluntary mam-
• festo in whic^ he declared, that the Continental army hav-
£g ; Jenerous disdain of every act of 0PP'^<=«««« »»i ^"^
knee, and liaving come for the express purpose of giving
Ky Ind securV, he tlierefore pledged his honour, to
IISTOBr.
of the people of Canada werf
it heart, and even somewhat
that they cherished a sullen
Quebec Act, just passed by
1, though favourable to their
r ancient dependence towards
1. In addition to these advan-
red, the province of Canada
of the line : they having all
above all. Congress had been
g spring, the government was
this quarter ; that numerous
would be poured into it, in
the back: an operation, which,
might produce fatal conse-
Ticonderoga and Crown Point
the Americans; and the English
I occupied with their own de-
jarry succours into a part so re-
B confederation,
mstances co-operating, it was
to Canada; and Generals Mont-
ree thousand men, were direct-
»e. The latter, however, owing
ilbany ; and the entire conduct
m General Montgomeiy. The
John, on the river Sorel, which
nents, and well supplied with
ry. After a siege of five weeks
rction to the Americans. They
urt in the neighbourhood, and
hich, being undefended, Mont-
lout resistance. In all his miU-
all that he wrote and spoke,
ble officer behaved witli an ur-
, which captivated the aftections
it Montreal, a place tliat could
he published a voluntary mam-
that the Continental army hav-
ivery act of oppression and vio-
the express purpose of giving
:refore pledged his honour, to
STFSOITIOH OV MOSTOOMIRT.
mainfciin in the pe.iceable possession of their property of
every kind, the individuals and religious communities of the
c.tv He cnKaeed to secure to all the mhabitanU the free
tmc of tTielr religion ; hoped that the cml and religious
riX of all the Canadians would be estabbshed upon the
most permanent footing by a provincial ""]?"*> *"^P'^'
mWd that courts of justice should be speedily established.
IJZtlie most libcra'l plan, confomwbly to the British con-
'^T Montreal, Montgomery- was enabled to supply hU
troops with clothing and militaiy stoi-es , but sUll far from
uTeir homes, and in an enemy's country and a severe climate,
they murmured at their hardships, and even in many instan-
ces became anxious to return ; by these means, the wmy, al-
readv small, and greatly reduced by the garrisons left in the
dSrenTtowns, w^as diminished to four hundred men, wrth
which the dauntless general determined to pursue his course
to Quebec. His elastic genius arose the stronger with each
successive obstacle, and he seems in a degree to have im-
Darted it to his litUe army. Their march *" '» ^'nt"-
through bad roads and a severe climate ! beneath the fall of
the fi«t snows, and therefore made under great hardships;
these, however, they encountered with undaunted resolu-
tion, and arrived witli incredible expedition at Quebec
In the meantime, the American government had deter™":
ed to support Montgomery from another quwter. Colonel
Arnold, who successfully conducted this bold undertaking,
acquired from it the name of the American Hannibal He
was detached, with a thousand men, from Cambr.dffc, to
Jeneti^te into Canada, by ascending the mer Kennebeck.
and descending by the Clumdiere, to the nyer St. Lawrence.
Great were thf difeeulties these t..,ops had to encounter in
marchinr by an unexplored route, three hundred mdes,
UirSh^n ^uninhabited country. They were often com-
pelled. by cataracts or other impediments, to land, and to
haul thei/batteaux «P«Pid streams and over Wis of m^«^
Nor was their march V land more ehgible than this pas^ge
bv water. They had deep swamps, thick woods, difficult
mSns, anKragey Ap'<^t ^''^''^'^fy ^fJ^^
At some places they had to cut their way, for miles together,
throws, & so Aick, that their progress was only tour o^
fi»r.SiiesTday. The consUnt fatigue caused many to fall
208
((UIBSC— BISTORT.
Il>
«ck. Oncthird of the number which set out. was, from
want of necessaries, obUged to return; while the rest pro-
ceeded wUh Sated fo%tude and constancy. ^ Prov.»«om
™w at Su so scarce, that some of the men eat their dogs,
fl^ouKScVbrecches, and shoes. Ha^-ing spent thirty-
^f„. ^ t^veHdni a hideous wilderness, without ever
L"ein?KhSrrhi'*ey *t length reached the inhabit-
Td yy SaSniiere'they were weU recejyed, and
Jjery? JKuie 3d of December eflfectedajuncuon with i
h;orh\?rvrbdb« -the town, the Americ«» gene«J ]
wi«te a letter to the British governor, recommending an
Kei'tet^nder. to preveSTthe dre«lful con»equ^ce,
rf" stomt but the firmness of the governor could notbe
J T;»A« hv threats or danffers- The Americans soon i
eijrht hundred were miUtia, and four hundred and fifty sea-
min bdowrinir to the king's frigates or merchant ships in the
a^ xKst wereWii^s. regulars^ ""'itXht
^miwants The American army consisted of about eight
huXd men i some having been left at Montreal, and new
i^Sof Coirdeuchrtent, as has been related, having
'^r^S^n^SK^oprogn^.w.sn^emth^^, Uiei
i^lhiTKcearinSa'S^e'^S^^^^^^
th«e who wew attacked with it should wear a spngof hem-
' ^W-g' ?P
BISTOKT.
ler which set out, was, from
[o return ; while the rest pro-
le and constancy. Provisions
lome of the men eat their dogs,
I shoes. Having spent thirty-
eoua wilderness, without ever
r at length reached the inhabit-
they were well received, and
cessary for their comfort. The
mazement, when they saw this
le wilderness. It had never en-
t was possible for human beings
ds. Having reached tlie shore
1 awaited the arrival of Mont- ^
cember effected a junction with |
\e town, the American general
\i governor, recommending an
vent the dreadful consequences
I 6[ the governor could not be
dangers. The Americans soon !
dment, with five small mortars,
In a few days, General Mont-
battery, at the dwtance of seven j
Is } but his metal was too bght to
garrison of Quebec, at this time, ;
indred and twenty men, ot which
, and four hundred and fifty sea.
s frigates or merchant ships m the
uffines, regulars, or newly raised
t army consisted of about eight
g been left at Montreal, and neat
Aent, as has been reUted, having j
jgress was made in the siege ; the
»ld to incredible hardships ; the
y, incumbered the earth 5 and the \
that it was bevond human nature
eld. To rende'r their position sUU
ox broke out in tiie <»mp : *•'
the solders. It waa ordered, that
wth it should wear a spng of hem
ATTACK OV MOSTOOMEBT.
309
lock upon their hats, that the others misfht know and avoid
th^em These circumstances persuaded Montgomery, that
wiTout a bold and immediate effort, he must "-enounce the
Tdeaof satisfving public expectation, and witness the eclipse
of Wsown gfory Accordingly, having determined to attempt
S^eWult, he convoked a council of war, and acquainted
Se,n^?h his project. Without denying tiiat it was of diffi-
ciSrexecution, he maintained that it was pos«b c. and that
vXur and pn^dence would triumph over all obstacles. A^l
lere in favour of his proposition. His plan was to mak*^ fo«
pohus of attack ; two feinU against the waUs of the "pper
Cn. one at St. John's gate, and the oUier near tiie Citadel;
and two real assaults, each from the lower town, but on op-
Site sides. One of these attacks was to be led by himself.
Snde? Cape Diamond, Uie other by Colonel Arnold, around
bv the river St. Charles. .„i„„i,
% ebstdayoftheyear 1775. between four and five o clock
in the moniing, in the midst of a heavy stonn of «"«*• t^e
four columns put themselves in motion, in the best order, each
Ss Ihe Joint assigned. It is said tijat Captam Fn«er.
of the Irish emigrants, in going his round, Perceived the fu-
gees which the Americans fired to frive tlie signal j and that
immediately, without waiting for further commands, he orfer-
^^hfdrun; to beat, and roused the F«-n»°" .t° «™f- ^J^
columns assigned to execute the feint^ impeded by snow and
otiier obstacles, were not in time to effect tiieir purpo^- But
Montgomery, at tiie head of his party, composed chiefly of
NewTork men, advanced upon the bank of the nver. march-
ing by the way denominateS Anse de Mer, under Cape Dia-
mond^ Here he encountered a first barrier, at » pl*cc caUed
Polasse, which was defended by a battery ot a few P'^ces of
cannon , further on, at the distance of two hundred paces
irom this, stood a redoubt, furnished with a auffic.ent guard.
The soldiers that composed it, being tiie greater part Cana-
dians, on seeing the enemy approac\ were seized with ter-
roMhrew do«^ tiieir arms and fled. The battery itself was
abandoned , and if tiie Americans could have advanced with
sufficient expedition, they would certoin^y J^e been mastew
of it: but iJi turning Cape Diamond, Ae f«»t °f^^»L^
batiied by tiie waters of tfce river, tiiey found tiie road "ter-
mpted by enormous masses of snow. Montgomery, witii his
own hands, ende»vour«d to open a patii for his troops, who
s2
810
ftUSBBC— HMTOIir.
could only Mow him man by man: and he wu .compelled to
w,at wWle they aU asMmbled. At length, havnig collected
Zut two hunkd. whom he encoura,ted w«th !»« vo^ce and
example, he moved courageously and ~P><"X *?*■"» J^^
bS In the meantime, a cannonier who had retreated
ft^ (he battery, on weing the enemy hJt. returned to lus
no.(L aS UkinK a match, which happened to be rtiU bum-
C fiS aSSLn dwrSsd with gmpe^ot, the American
we?eSJ^^Sp«c«rThi. «ngte and almort accidental
Tj^fo^wXlKxtinguiahed the hope, they had conceived.
Stwmenr?M weU iScaptaini Macphcrwn and Cheeaman,
bShfoun?™" of ringulSr merit, and dear to the general,
"^WI^fieL" ?;enr;ere occurin, at thi. poin^ Colonel
ArToUL at tkw head of about three hundred and fifty men,
™d thrcSjh sTRoaue*. and approached on h«sjf e nea
iiw^ jrun bStteiy, without being discovered. Thii he at-
tacWnd. thoirfi it was weU defended. ««?ed it , birt
S^nridlJrable U In the attack, however, he ^ceived
a wound which made it necesMuy to cany him off the hcia
of tatUe. lU.p«tyneverthelc«r continued the aawult. «id
nuaWM on made tliemselve. maiter. of a «5cond barrier: hei«
?£ K^ «utained the force of the whole garrison,
forthwc holTbut finding them^slves hemmed in and w. J-
S^thrpea either of «icc^ reUef. Z'f'^VtSi^^m-
to numW and the advantageoua situation of their adversa-
"*The sDot on which Montgomery feU U still pointed out,
aJS^ |1^ arid noblenli.of spirit ar« ^«me^^^^^
While in his own coun Jy the intelligence of his death was
^'i^eJTwiih fedini,- '%that of W any o^er num
could have excited, K was his remarkable lot to wce're at
Steime moment fhnn itaenemio. th^:f•r2f'*,*"^°S.X
« ThVmnrt Doweifu\ sneakers in the British Parbament, dis-
pSrd'S/^l^^c'ffpnusing hU virtde. «d Umie^^
Kk fate A mk orator, and veteran feUow^ldier ot hia in
SL S^n^ir" shedabundwice of tears. w^J^he ^
^ on their past friendship, and participation « J^^f
SXt sLon o/eTterpriae and renown. anJ even the minis-
tet extidled his glories."
Sunt hlcetiam sua praenualauct
lunt lacrym* reruffl, et mcntem mortaba Ungunt.
■UTOBT.
nan: and he was compelled to
At length, having collected
>ncouraKed with hia voice and
uHly and rapidly towards the
cannonier who had retreated
e enemy hah, returned to his
jh happened to be atill bum-
th gmpe^ot 1 the Americans
I single and almost accidental
the hopes they had conceived.
ns Macpherson and Chcesman,
lent, and dear to the general,
ceuring at this point. Colonel
three hundred and fifty men,
id approached on his ride near
eing discovered. Thij he at-
irell defended, carried it; but
I attack, however, he received
gsary to cany him off the field
iless continued the assault, and
nasters of a second barrier : here
le force of the whole garrison,
emselves hemmed in, and with-
elief, or retreat, yielded at last
;eous situation of their adversa-
omery feU U still pointed out,
ss of spirit are still remembered,
e intelligence of his death was
that of scarcely any other man
s remarkable lot to receive at
lemies tiie warmest eulopums.
» in the British Parliament, dis-
uung his virtdes and lamentmg
i veteran fellow-solder of his m
ndance of tears, whilst he expa-
ip, and participation of service
nd renowoj and even the nuiua-
iia praenua laucU
mcntem mottaSa tangunt.
nczBtc— aisToar.
Sit
Since this fatal conflict, Quebec has not been visited by
an opposing army, and may the ilay be long distant, when
such heroes as Montgomery and Wolfe shaU agam expire be-
n(>ath its walls !
t
■•»l»"¥"»"ff^p"
n.!
IIOtTB muM MOtmtJH TCI lliAHT.
i
MONTREAL TO ALBANY.
M. M.
MoHTIIKlt to g
LaVrairic ' g j^
Half.Way House . g 22
9t. Jol'"'" '.'.". 10 32
ItrP-^ranaente-rt^c united State. 11 43
plattsbiiitc . . 18 88
DurJinpftcin I ... 14 102
Kssex . . 10 112
North-West Hay ] . . 10 122
j'rown Point .15 137
Ticonderoga ! ". 23 160
AVhitehall . 12 172
Tort Anne - - » 4 176
KiniTHbury '.'.'.'.- 5 181
Sandy Hill " " •, *
Cross Northern Canal ^ 193
Fort Edward 3 186
Cross Moss Kill ^ 3 189
Fort Miller \ jqq
Cross Hudson River 4 194
Fish Creek ' j 195
Saratoffa - - '.'.'.. 6 201
Bemiss* Heights - - ■ - ^ .^^j^
Stillwater - ■--•;'.•.:: 4 209
Anthony's Kill - - ■ • g 317
Waterford g 219
Lansiiigburg 4 223
Troy '.'.'.'. 6 229
AtBAJTT
mm
irntjn TCI ii*k»t.
»T. t*l»«MtI— fBAMitl— «T.
joas ••
m
From M»NTB»Ai to Albart.
OS leaving Montiial for St. John'ii, we may croM over
nthcr to La Prairie, wliich is the most umial, or to Lrni^unl,
tile »horti >» paasagc. Hy l.ntli romU, ti.e journey i» an iriter-
estinir one of about twinty miles, tlu-ouKli a perfectly level
country, fertile, well cultivated, coMSKlcrably populoun, and
« ui d with very neat and comfortaUlc white houuci, con-
II v;tpd in ircneral of hi;wn lojjx. The hams, frfijuently ol
a larire «i»c, arc usually built in the same manner ; but the
want ot |,c.od frame-work i» veiy obvious in their IrequenUy
Ji»turt«-'' ippearancc. . , • o — i »4.
On 1 road from J>onpieil, wc reach the nver Sorcl, at
the low,, of St. Jo»eph, or ChamhU, where it spreacU .nto a
considerable basin, adorned with Htveral i.!cU, and rusbci
over a rocky bottom, so as to form a pretty though not im-
petuous rapid. These rocks are a tlat secondary limestone,
covered by slate. Just above the village, is an interesung;
remnant of the old French dominion. It is a snuare (ort ot ,
stone, probably forty feet hiRh, and two hundred fceton the
(rroiind, alonir each side : it ha.s square towers, projecting
from each of ita angles, so that every approach to it couia
be completely enfiladed by three tiers oi cannon.
The French militiiry works in these provinces are liighly
respectable, considerin)? the immaturity of the countiy when
they were erected, and the length uf time tliat has elabi^d
since most of them were constmcted. The [0^, "f. F«=''''*P'
it miirht be more properly termed the castle, ot Chamwe,
has tTie date of 1711. cut in the stone near Uie P«rtcu'™-
This fortress was taken, as we have mentioned, m I77a, oy
General Montgomery, on his march to Quebec.
Leaving Chambl^, we pass on the nght, the ground virhcre
the lance encampment was formed during the Uwt war, tnw
being a great militaiy station. The road then courses alon?
the shore of the river for twelve miles, to St. John a. ine
country is beautiful and fertile, the population numerouj,
and the whole ride interesting. The cottages appear nea^
comfortable and warm ; almost every moment, you meet
cheerful looking peasants, driving their htUe carts f cAo--
^'tttsj drawn by horses of«UminuUvc size, the men generally
i!U WW AIJX NOIX— BOIISS'8 POIST— PUTrsBuao.
stondinjrup in the cart, with their lighted pipes in their
Shsf »nd red or blue sashes, and Ug corneal wooUen
•=Tt i jSS the"':;eUer Ukes the steam-boat. in which
he Dro^eds up the river. In ten miles, he reaches Afe ««
Sroirriow i"Ld of about ninety acres, interesting only as
Egimpoi^t in time of war/ The l«'ge barracks^ the
nuXro? officers the imposing appearance "f '•^'"P*^ "'.^^
camwn and the bustle of militarj' acUvity, are strangely
coSed witl. the dark and gloomy forests wh.ch are spread
"°Eletn miles above Isle aux Noix ^ng us to ^'
Point, the confluence of the river Sorel ^v.th L«fte CW
plain' md the boundary between Canada and the United
States. On this promontory is a Urge and beautrful fort,
fSted bTour Jemment,\nd designed to conunand^e
communication between the nver and lake. The c°n>m*
Bto^^who were appointed to ascertain the boundary line
bX^n the United States and Canada (setUed by t^aty U>
run in latitude 45°. from the rtate of Maine to «»« 9t;Law.
rence) J»ve found, by an astronomical survey, that this fort
was a few poles on the British side of the bne.
^i^Z^ is now up the lake, for twenty-seven mdes, to
PlattebSrrOur right i formed by the shore of New-Yor^
nmcS little els? than wUd mountams, clothed with native
ES- on Ae left, we occasionaDy see the shores of Ver.
S? Md aV^er times, it is bounded by the larp isknds
Sh dusterTthe noiSiem part of the lake, the isle o
ISX^^orth Hero ^X^d the South Hero. P"«i"S«^^
Cumberland Head, a bold P™«»''nt»5y. ^"•"P"^,^"!?!""*'
of secondary limestone, we enter the bay of Platteburg.
PWiZi, the capital of Clinton county, « «'t»«ted at tfic
mwaST^.nac rfver, in north latitude **" f'/J^^ ^f.
"^longitude from the city of New-York , one hundred and
Xiinfmilea north of Albany , ninety north of Wh«
one hundred and twenty east of Ogdensburg, by «»« joa^
and ninety-Beven in a rfght line , and thirteen north of Port
KVnt Itisanincorpoilted post village, and contains up-
7^ of three hundred houses, a bank. ««« «^bu^»'' ♦'l^^
courtJiouse and jail, an academy, and a number of store*
and manu&ctories.
rMii i ^mt t. m .'f t ». > . ! i» -.. '.iii» i« » 'n* '
--•■ >;^ riji wfWi ' ! i !j.») i »J^i%'W' ' W f' 'W'' ' ' '
POIST — PLlTTSBUae.
their lighted pipes in their
es, and long conical woollen
»kes the steam-boat, in which
ten miles, he reaches /«« ««*
nety acres, interesting only as
ir. The large barracks, the
ig appearance of i-amparts and
lilitai^' activity, are strangely
loomy forests which are spread
ux Noix bring us to Bmas't
river Sorel with Lake Cham-
ween Canada and the United
is a large and beautiful fort,
and designed to command the
river and lake. The commis-
asccrtsun the boundary line
d Canada (settled by treaty to
rtate of Mwne to the St. Law-
ronomic4d survey, that this foit
1 fflde of the line.
lake, for twenty-seven miles, to
led by the shore of New-York,
I mountains, clothed with native
uuonally see the shores of Ver-
IS bounded by the large islands
1 part of the lake, the isle of
:ie South Hem. Passing round
m'^ntory, composed of flat Strata
mer the bay of Plattsburg.
Minton county, is situated at the
north latitude 44° 4^, and 35^
[)f New-York; one hundred and
my; ninety north of Whitehall;
It of Ogdensburg, by the roads,
ine ; and thirteen north of Port
post village, and contains up-
uses, a bank, one church, the
ademy, and a number of stores
PI.ATti«VRO.
215
Ihis littie town, and its pleasant bay, present a scene
which must ever be viewed by an American with the rtrong-
Mt feelings of delight-that <* a double conflict, m which a
bSveaTwell-appointed enemy was defeated at the same
moment on land and water, by a small force, undisc'plui^i,
unprepared, and hastily collected. In 1814. the Bnt«h de-
tcrmined to invade the countiy, on the same plan by which
BuiKoyne had attemptedit about forty years before. Sir
Geofge Prevost. with a large force, was to march along the-
shore and seize Plattsburg, while a flotiUa, ^under the com-
mand of Captain Downie, consisting of several vessels, mount-
Lninety-Ave guns, and having on board upwards of one
thousand men, sailed up the kke to coH>nerate with him.
When it w^ known at the vUlage tW the enemy had
crossed the frontier, tiie place was almost without defence.
The scattered mUitia of the vicinity were iinmediately sum-
moned, and all hastened to throw up fortifacations, and to
pS a fleet to engage U.at of the enemy.. The exertions
male during this anxious period are almost incredible, night
and day, the axe and the hammer were at work, and every
one threw aside all business but that of preparing to receive
the enemy. As soon as the report of the invasion spread
tlirough the countiy, the peasantry, with their «««» of^jf
implements, poured down from the mountains and forerts.
Sr to joik the little band of soldiers who had already ^1-
kctcd at the town-every employment v/»b deserted, every
age was disregarded— the moment demanded exertion, and
it wxs not wanting.
From the gray sire, whose trembling hand
Could scarcely buckle on his brand.
To the riiw boy, whose shaft and bow
Were yet scarce terror to the crow,
Each valley, each seqiicster'd glen,
Muster'd its little horde of men.
That met, as torrents from the height
In highland dale theur streams unite;
Still gathering, as they pour along,
A voice more loud, a tide more strong.
The fleet was equipped with equal rapidity, and moored
inlhne^ro-llAaJrready to i^ceive .the enemy It coj^
sistodof afew vessels, mounting only eighty.«ix guns, and
316
BATTlt 0» MATTSBrmO.
Hi
innned bv ewht hundred men, with the gJknt M'Donough
KSSd * Such was the harte of P«P»«J«>\*** °^
^ AevSi which then entered into action had been built
a^tatSwed in *e space of a fortnight: eirfiteen day.
«»viX to the engagement, the timber of Wbich it w«
TnlZrtS Si beSr^ctualiy growing in the foreirt upon
*^ xSt'J'ct^i^n the momihg of the Uth September
nine eniraired our flotiJla at anchor m the bay «« the town.
fiX wSS^nt of an easy triumph, but the g«l^t ^^
Sh; in the short spac/ of two hours, compelled the large
vSto ^ke their coloui-8, whilst the galleys saved tliem-
S?bY Eht This glorious achievement was in full view
STe workl «>at had'ieen hastily thrown up on the sho«
fy fhe ZScan forces, who had Urns the sat,s aeUon ofj.t
«.«:«» the victorv The British army was also so posted
SnThfs^ffiheighU. that it co,jld not but behold t^
interwtinK Btruggle for domuuon on the lake. At the same
hoSn«Mffi^e fleets engaged, the en«ny opened the.
bSes on our forts, throwing^mndreds of "helU balls an
rodMt.; and attempted at the same time to cross the Saramc
Stiteel Cerent pWt^ to assault the works : at the upper
fciA^evwere met by the militia and wlunteers. and a^t«
JSaSd^S^wei; driven back with conside«ble loB
SBtd. wounded and prisoners. The enemy's fee w«
MtSned with eflect from the American batteries , and b
SS!ti»ey h«l silenced seven which had been erected by
SeBrititf., and saw th«r columns reUnng to then- camp^
bLvond^ reach of their juna. Thus beaten by land and
SS^rthTgwenior^enenS witlidrew his artillery. «id raiKd
SS«! "^t nine^dock at night, he -cntofr h« hean
Wg^. and under cover of the darkness retreated with h»
wSU Mmy towards Canada. »«"mg h.s wmindcd on the
field, together with a vast quantity of bread, flow and bee^
!&Thad not time to dUoy, besides bomb^elK shrt,
flSuI; and ammunition of aU lands, which remained at tht
batteries, and ky concealed m the ponda and rivers.
FSTpUttsbiry we cros. the lake, in a «outh.east d««.
tion. eighteen milea, to Buriingt«m,m Vermont. In tte
^aUie^ve leave on the right the littie iriands of St. Mtckl
SSTmoMT, »nd on the left CoUhtsltr PntU, a long penin- 1
u!y;-/",i " i
P1*TT»BCB0.
;n, with the gallant M'Donough
haste of preparation, that ont
tered into acUon had been built
of a fortnight : eighteen dajri
It, the timber of wnicb it wm
dly growing in the foreat upon
noming of the 11th September,
issed Cumberland Head, and at
anchor in the bay off the town,
Tiumph, but the gallant M Do-
P two hours, compelled the large
i-s, whdst the galleys saved tliem-
ous achievement was in full view
n hastily thrown up on the shore
lo had tluis the satisfaction of wit-
British army was also so posted
I, that it coiUd not but behold the
minion on the lake. At the same
ugaged, the enemy opened then
wing hundreds of shells, balls and
the same time to cross the Saranac
assault tlie works : at the upper
le militia ami wlunteers, and ajtet
riven back with considerable loss
prisoners. The enemy's fire wm
n the American batteries 5 and by
seven which had been erected by
r columns retiring to their camps,
: guns. Thus beaten by land and
nd witiidrew his artillery, and raised
ck at night, he sent off his hean
r of the darkness retreated with to
nada, leaving his wounded on the
t quantity of bread, flour and beef,
» destroy, berides bomb^ells, shot,
)f all lunds, which remwned at the
led in the ponds and rivers.
stoM the lake, in a south-east d^^c^
1 Burlington, in Vermont In the
; right the littte islands of St. MtOel ]
e left Cbfcfterfer Point, a long penin-
BonwireTON— vsMonT cmTimsiT*— to^-
b? a chapel, seven rooms for public uses, and »«{*»»'
rtudente^ It is finely situated, on the east of the village, one
S dlnKm Jke ChampUin, on «« "l^'^XIwi
inv to raotain Partridge, of two hundred and forty-hve teet
about Uiirty Uiousand acre., cX which only about six thousand
four hundred are as yet leased. ^_^
From BurlinKton, it is fourteen miles to i[,«wr, a viM«e
onTSeTshire of the lake, coning .^oat^«J^
houses, and pleaswitly seated «» *« ""f*'" 2eiSl,^KS»
TlieTounty Jf the same name, which hat ^'<»»J^
the wester;i:.shoj.. is celeb^jed .^^^^^^
TvSllur of itlunSS Stothe^Seightof twelr.
T
,, i ijuM ii m i iw r'"wgB>wp
iJl8 iFlIT BOCK— CBOWW POIICT.
hundred feet ; but the flat and smooth champains along Uie
lake, and its deep valleys, give it an iiapcct of mixed scenery,
wild, grand, and sublimely pictuiesque. The forest trees
are (^a lofty growth, embracing white and black oak, white
and yellow pine, maple, beecli, walnut, butternut, birch,
ash, elm, basswood, cherry, fir, spruce, hemlock, &c. The
woods afford a great \-ariety of wild game, and the waters
are richly stored with fish. The country is abundantly sup-
plied with springs and .ivulets of pure and wholesome water,
n generally very healthy, and has also a large number of
mill-streams, falls, rapids, and natural sites for hydraulic
works. The iron ores of this region are of uncommon ricJi-
ness, yielding iron of the very best quality, though hitherto
wrought under many disadvantages, incident to small busi-
ness m a country comparatively new, and wanting capital.
Asbestos is found in the township of Moriah, and supposed
indications of mineral coal, while an ore has been discoverfd
in the northern part, yielding a little copper. Emery and
tabular spar are wud to have been also discovered in tbib
county.
There is a ferry from Essex across the lake to Charlottt
villi^, in Vermont. Soon after leaving it, we pass the cele-
brated S^lii JRtiek, course along through the Narrout, and
in twenty miles reach Croum Point.
This celebrated fortress is seated on the northern extremi-
ty of a long peninsuL., formed by a bay nmning up on the
western shore of tlie lake, above which it is elevated about
fifty feet. It was first erected by the Itench in 1731, and
etUed Fort St. Frederick, and afterwards, with T^condevogp^
became the theatre of many military exploits. The wall*
were of wood and earth, twenty-two feet thick, and sixteen
hi^. It was about uxteen hundred yards square, and sur-
rounded by a deep and broad ditch, cut in a solid granite
rock, with immense labour. On tlie north is a double row
of strong stone barracks, still standing, though somewhat
in decay, and large cnougtito contiun two thousand troops.
On the nortliem side, are a gate, a strong drawbridge, and a
covered way to the water of the lake. The whole are now
in ruins ; and the outworks, which were extensive, are little
else than heaps of rubbish, barely sufficient to revive remem-
bnince.
Fr
miles
next
Ame
wall!
of tl
built
the
It is
said,
der-t
the!
of g
it is
occi
f.oir
nin<
IM
is si
it; II
witi
tani
ires
tori
to(
cla
pat
tur
wh
del
Fr
dri
dit
of
de
ed
de
Al
sa
m
rw POINT.
looth champaina along Uie
n iispcct of mixed »cenejy,
lesque. The forest trees
hite and black oak, white
walnut, butternut, birch,
ivuce, hemlock, &c. The
iM game, and the waters
country is abundantly sup-
(ure and wholesome water,
a also a large number of
latural sites for hydraulic
un are of uncommon ricli-
rt quaUty, though hitherto
es, incident to small busi-
new, and wanting capital,
of Moriah, and supposed
m ore has been discovered
little copper. Emery and
en also discovered in this
ross the lake to Charlotte
s.iving it, we pass the cele-
through the Narrou-a, and
•a.
d on the northern extremi-
I a bay nmning up on tlie
which it is elevated about
y the IVench in 1731, and
erwards, with Ticondevoga,
litaty exploits. The walls
■two feet thick, and sixteen
red yards square, and sur-
tch, cut in a solid granite
1 tltc north is a double row
jtnding, though somewhat
mtain two thousand troops,
a strong drawbridge, and a
lake. The whole are now
ih were extensive, are little
r suflicient to revive temem-
TIC05UKBUUii.
319
From Crown Point to Tieonderoga, is a distance of twelve
miles, through a very narrow sti:.ii. This, once pemaP*
next to quebcc the most celebi-atcd fortified post m North
America, is now onlv a mass of rums, though many of the
walls are sufficiently enti.-e to exhibit proofs of the excellence
of their constniction, and of the plan of the worfa. It WM
built by the French, in 1755, on a po.nt ot land formed by
the junction of Lake Geoi-ge outlet with Luke Champtam.
It isabove tide-water one iwndred and nmety^ix feet. It is
Slid, that its name is derived from the Indian word Che^-
deZea, signifying noisy, probably in allusion to the water:
S^Tenchfhowever, c Jle^«nd.
Mo«nt Defiance, immediately on the outlet of Lake George,
is six hundred feet above Uie fort, and completely commands
it; and Mount Independence, often mentioned m connection
«^th it, is on tiie east side of the lake, about two miles dis-
^'"as we pass by the mouldering ruins of the numerous for-
xresses which are scattered over iliis distnct a thoiisand hi!^
torical recollections break in upon our thought^ and combine
to fix our attention upon spots that have already become the
classic antiquities of our country. They ^^ ^^ ff *^«. "^^
part erected by the French, in the c^rly part of U.e last cen-
tun-, and from them issued those ferocious incursions, in
wSch, joining with the savage Indians, they attacked the
defenceiss border settlements of the Bnt.sh provinces,
i^m these causes, it became an object of vital 'nterejrt to
,Wve the French from these stn.i.Kl'oW*; »™1 ''f '^^ «*P^:
ditions were planned or un.levtHkcn with that object. I hat
of Sir William Johnston, in 1755, tliou(th the enemy were
defei'Jand the commumlerin chief kil'ed, was not attend-
ed, as' will be recollected, with success in its '"am object.
in 1758, another cNpcdition was undertaken against Ticon-
deroga and Ci-own Point. On the 5th of Jidy, Genenjl
Abererombie embarked on Lake George with sixteen ihoa-
sand troops, landed at its foot without opposition, and com.
mcnccd fcs march towards the fortress. As the countiy
n
220
TICONPSKOOA.
through which their march lay is tUfficalt and woody, an.I
the guides who conducted them were extremely unskilhi ,
(he teoops became bewildered, the columns broke, and fell
in upon one another. In this situation they were attjickcd
by the French, and a party was defeated, with the loss ot
ttoee hundred killed, and one hundred and fifty prisoners.
At the first fire. Lord Howe, tlie pride and hope of the
army, fell mortally wounded. The first to encounter dm-
*er, to endure hunger, to support fatimie; rigid in his
diacipUne, but easy m bis manners, his officers and soldiers
readUy obeyed the commander, because they loved the
niaiK and now, at the moment when such abUities and
mch an example wfre most wanted, was fatally lost a We
which wa» long enough for his honour, but not for his
Nc^ithitanding this loss however. General Abercrombie
proceeded and took l>ost near Ticonderoga. Under the
impieinon of false intelligence, an assault was resolved upon,
and took place on the 8th of July 5 but the French were so
well covered by an abattis, and a breastwork eight feet higli,
that the British troops were unable to carry the works. After
an unavailing contest of four hours, and the loss of one thou-
antd eight hundt«d of the awiwUnts, a retreat was ordered.
Abeicivmbie teUnquished for the present all designs against
Ticonderoga, and on the evening of the following day re-
turned to his camp at the southern end of Lake George.
Such is the uncertainty of miUtary operations ! Four days
beibre, the finest army that had then been assembled in
America embarked on Lake George, with all the fplendour
of military parade: the morning had been remarkablv bright
and beautiful, and the fleet moved witli exact regulanty to
the Bound of maitial music—the ensigns waved and glittered
in the sun-beams, and the anticipation of expected tnuiimh
shone in evety eye. They now returned, defeated and dis-
heartened— the noblest of then- leaders killed in a petty
skirmiah, the object of their hopes unaccomplished, and all
the visions of anticipated gloi-y> which liad ammated so many
breasts, destroyed perhaps for ever.
The campaign of the succeeding year, though not com-
menced with the sanguine prospects of the last, was attend-
ed with more success. In the plan for the operations of 1759,
«6 we have before mentioned, it was determined that General
OBi.
is tlifficaU and woody, and
1 were extremely unskilfiil,
;he columns broke, and fell
ituation they were attacked
s defeated, with tlie loss of
hundred and fifty prisoners,
tlie pride and hope of the
The first to encounter daii-
pport fatigjie ; rigid in his
lers, his officers and soldiers
r, because they loved the
it when such abilities and
inted, was fatally lost a life
lis honour, but not for his
vever. General Abercrombie
p Ticonderoga. Under the
an assault was resolved upon,
ily i but the French were so
a breastwork eight feet higli,
ble to carry the works. After
lu^ and the loss of one thou-
lants, a retreat was ordered,
le present all designs t^iist
ling of the following day re-
oithem end of Lake George.
Btary operations ! Four days
lad then been assembled m
eorge, with all the splendour
f had been remarkably bright
oved witli exact regularity to
; ensigns waved and glittered
:ipation of expected triumph
ft returned, defeated and dis-
xr leaders killed in a petty
>pes unaccomplished, and all
which lud animated so many
;ver.
:ding year, though not ccm-
ipects of the last, was attend-
lan for the operations of 1759,
t was determined that General
TICORSIIIOGl. 221
Amherst should march from the provinces, and attack these
fortresses. He proceeded accordingly, but, contrary to what
might have been expected, he found that the French had
■ibandoned Ticonderoga and Crown Point, and retreated into
Canada. He immediately took possession of them ; and at
the treaty of peace, they were, with the rest of the French
possessions in this part of America, finally ceded to Great
Britain. • u r _*
Nearly twenty years had passed away, and the tortresscs
of Ticonderoga and Crown Point were ahnost forgotten,
when a conflict of a different kind arose, and made them the
scenes of new exploits. They were the first posts which
were carried by the continental arms, in tlie war of indepen-
dence. On the 10th of May, 1775, Colonel Ethan Allen, at
the head of a small troop of volunteers, whom he had col-
lected chiefly among the mountains of Vermont, and not
much exceeding two hundred in number, surprised the garri-
son of Ticonderoga in the dead of night, and summoned it
to surrender. " In whose name ?" asked the astonished and
inuated commander I "In the name of Uie great Jehovah
and the Continental Congress!" repUed the inUepid patriot.
The captui-e of Crown I'oint soon followed ; and without the
loss of a man, our gallant countrymen obt^ned possession of
these keys of the north. They found in the forU upwards
of two hundred pieces of cannon, besides some mortars, how-
lUei's, and a quantity of various stores, wliich were to them
liiffhly valuable. They also captured two vessels, which
irave them the command of Lake ChampLun, and materials
inepaied at Ticonderoga for building and eqiupping othMS.
The Americans retained possession of these posts till July,
\777, when they were evacuated on llie approach ot General
Burgoyne mth tlie BriUsh army. . . . '
At M early period of the revolution, the British ministers
had formed the plan of opening a way to New-York, by
means of an army which should descend from the lakes to
the banks of the Hudson, and uiute in tlie vicuuty of Albany,
with the whole or a part of that commanded by General
Howe. All intercourse would thus have been cut ott b^
tween the eastern and western provinces, and it was beUeved
that the triumph of the Britisl -ms from that moment could
no longer be doubtful.
* t2
323
■ tROOTXB's BXFSDITION.
An army amounting to about ten thousand men was ar.
coidingiy assembled at the river Bouquet, on the west side
of LaJce Champlain, the command of wliich was intnisted to
Ljeutenant-General Burgoyne, an officer whose ability w»s
unquestioned, and whosr spirit of enterprise, and thirst for
inibtary glory, however rivalled, could not possibly be ex-
ceeded. He was assisted by Brigadier-Generals Frazer, Pow-
el and Hamilton, all distinguished oflliccni, with the Brunt-
wkk Major-General Baron Reidesel and Bri^pdier-General
Specht. The army was in every respect in uie best condi-
tion that could possibly be expected or wished, the troops
being in the highest spirits, admirably disciplined, and un-
commonly healthy. The general published a proclamation,
in which he denounced in the severest terms the rebellions
coloiuats; invoked upon tijem all the harshest cruelties of In-
^n warfare; displayed, in full, lofty and expressive language,
the force of that great power which was now spread by sea
and land, to embrace or to crush every part of America; and
denounced, arrayed in their most tenihc forms, all the cala-
mities of war against those who persevered in tlieir hostility.
Having completed his preliminary arrangcmenta, (General
Burgoyne commenced bis march. At Crown Point, which had
been evacuated, he stoppcil u short time, for the establisii-
ment of magazines, an hospital, and other nccessaij' services,
and then priKeeded witli all his troops to invest Ticon-
deroga. The right wing took the western shore, the left
advanced upon the eastern, and the centre was embarked
upon the lake itaetf. The reduction of this post, without
wnicb it was impossible for the invading army to advance a
■tep beyond it, was of course the first object of its operations.
The Americans reposed great hopes in this fortress, consi-
dering it as the banier against invasion from the north. Its
defence was intrusted to General St. Clair, with a gan-ison ot'
thiee thousand men, one-thirtl of whom were militia from
the northern provinces : but they were badly equipped, and
WOTM armed, particularly in the article of bavoneta, a weapon
ao eMuntial to the defence of the lines, not having one to ten
of their number. On the 2d of July, the foit was invested
by the British ; and they were not long in observing the im-
^octanoe of erecting a battery on Mount Defiance : with ii^-
nits labour, therefore, cannon were draMed to ita summit,
and on the 5th every thing waa prepared Tor a general aaiault.
ixriDiTioir.
ut ten thousand men was ar
er Bouquet, on the west side
and of which was intnisted to
an officer whose abiKty was
It of enterprise, and thirst for
d, could not possibly be ex-
iffadier-GenenJs Fnuter, Pow-
shed officers, with the Hnms-
eidesel and Brigadier-General
ery respect in 9»e best condi-
ipected or wished, the troops
idmirably disciplined, and un-
eral published a proclamation,
! severest terms the rcbellioiw
all the harshest cruelties of In-
, lofty and expressive knmiage,
which was now spread by sea
ish every part of America; and
nost terrihc forms, all the cala-
10 persevered in their hostility,
iminary arrangement^ General
•ch. At Crown Point, which had
u short time, for the establisli-
li, and other necessary services,
11 his troops to invest Ticon-
sk the western shore, the left
md the centre was embarked
reduction of this post, without
he invadinff army to advance u
the first object of its operations,
at hopes in this fortress, consi-
it invasion from the north. Its
eral St. Clair, with a ^irison ot'
rd of whom were militia from
they were badly equipped, and
he article of bftvoneti, a weapon
' the lines, not having one to ten
d of July, the fort was invested
re not long in observing the im-
^ on Mount Defiance : with infi-
m were dragged to its summit,
13 preparediOT a general aaiault.
avtccATiOM or Tieoii»«KO«*.
r^
Under these circumstances, a hasty consuhation was held by
the American officers : it wa. represented that their whole
effective number was not sufficient to man one-half ot the
works, that the enemy's batteries were ready to open, and
that nothing could save the garrison but an immediate eva-
cuation of the post. This aetermination was unammpudy
amed to by Ae councU, and the place waa accorAngly
deserted on that night The baggage, arUUenr and ijores,
were embarked with a strong detachment on board of two
iwmlred batteaux, and despatched, under convoy of five
armed Kalleys, up the South nvcr, on their way to Skenes.
borough. The main army took iU route by CasUetown, to
reach the same place by land. .^„ . _/. »k »™-
As soon as the British discovered the retreat of the Ame-
ricans. they commenced the pursuit. General Frazer, at the
head of a strong body of grenadiers and light troops, fol-
lowed them with great rapidity by land, upon the nght
bank of Wood creek. General Keidcsel, behind him, eager-
Iv advanced with his Bninswickers, cither to support the
Knirlish, or to act separately, as occasion might require.
fieneral Burgoyne determined to pursue them by water.
Uv tliree o'clock in the afternoon, the vaa of the BnUsh
«|ua.lron, composed of gun-boats, came up wiA and attack-
cd the American gaUeys, near Skenesborough fidls. I wo of
iliem 8urrendere«lt spirit and finmie«, but the Engbjhd*
played equal obstinacy. At this cntacai moment, Graciil
:t
334
BATTtB Of m;il*«B«TO!r— WHlTlBAlt.
Reidescl arrived »t the head of hi« column, compo«ed of some
light tioopt »nd grenadiers, and immediately took part in
the action. The Americans, overpowered by numbers, fled
on all sides, leaving their brave commander, with many other
officers, and upwards of two hundred soldiers, dead on the
Held. General 8t Clair, upon intelligence of thisoat can scarcely put about in it, and there seems
hardly room for the passage of the little sloops, which are
frequently met coming from Whitehall. At the very head
of this natural canal, lie the wrecks of the flotiUas of M'Do-
nough and Downie, now, by the catastrophe of battle, united
into one. . . , . .•. . . ,
The most interesting object on the paange, is the double
barrier of mountains extending along on either hand. It seems
as if the lake had been poured into the onljr natural basin, of
any magnitude, which exists in this mountainous region, and
as if itsboundaries were irrevocably fixed, by the impassable
barriera of rocks and Alpine land. The mountains, par-
ticularly on the eastern side, presenting to the eye their na-
ked precipitous cliffs, composed of the edges ol" the strata,
are gneiss at Whitehall and limestone toward* Ticonderoga.
From LAke George to Lake Champlain, they are primitive.
At Whitehall, the rocks have a very beautifiil stratification -,
the hilla appear as if cracked in two, and one part being re-
moved, we have a fine vertical section « both their horizontal
and perpendicular diviaon^ resemble a regular piece of ma-
soiiry, and this is the prevwling fiwt all along the lake.
The village of VvhUduM contains about one hundred
houKs ; it is situated on a low piece of ground, at the head
VOHT AlfMt— BAEBIl'* lALU.
su
IITOH— WRiniAlt.
Ilis column, compowd of acme
tnd immediately took put in
verpowercd by number*, fled
! commander, with many other
undred loldien, dead on the
ntelligence of thii diKomftture
eaborough, which wasbrou({ht
officer of one of the gallevi.
le interrupted if he proceeded
the fugitives and marched to
; with General Schuyler,
meaborough or Whitehall is
er part of the wxy, indeed, the
UTow dUKglish river, without
rocky and mountainous ridges,
lake, there is generally a con-
marshy ground, of a roost un-
r purpose but to produce fever
for miles, so narrow, that the
about in it, and there seems
of the little sloops, which are
Whitehall. At the very head
rrecks of the flotiUas of M'Do-
lie catastrophe of battle, united
± on the passage, is the double
ridong on either hand. Itseero.s
1 into the onljr natural basin, of
m this mountainous region, and
ocably fixed, by the impassable
: land. The mountains, par-
presenting to the eye their na-
med of the edges of the strata,
imestone towamls Ticonderoga.
Champlain, they are primitive,
s a veiy beautiful stratification ;
. in two, and one part being re-
il section ; both their horizontal
«semble a regular piece of ma-
ng fitct all along the lake.
I contuns about one hundred
ft piece of ground, at the head
of the navigation of Lake Champlain. Steam navigation on
tills lake, and the opening of the Northern canal, have given
it a «i>id increase of business. Many good biiiWings are
erected, and it seems likely to become a trading place of no
mean importance. The canal enters the lake at the village.
From Whitehall to Fort Anne, twelve miles, the roail pass-
e, in a south-west direction, with the Champlain canal on
the left hand all the way i for the last seven miles it is formed
along the bed of iVood Creek. The rocks which are seen
on the road are immense strata of gneiss, often so full ot
garnets, tliat at a distoncc the ledges appear spotted with
red and brown. „ ,
Just before we enter the village of Fhrt Anne, is a narrow
pass between some high rocks and Wood creek, where, on
the 8th of July 1777, the ninth British regiment, belonging to
General Burgoyne's army, sustained a heavy los^ by a con-
flict with the Americans under Colonel Long. Afler the sur-
render of Ticonderoga, General Burgoyne endeavoured to
keep up the alarm, by spreading his parties over the coun-
try. With this view. Colonel Hill, at the head of the ninth
reitiment, was despatched after Colonel Long, who, with four
or five hundred men, principally the invalids and convalcs-
cents of the army, had taken post at Fort Anne, and was di-
rected by General Schuyler to defend it. Colonel Long, with
bis party, did not wait an atuck ftom the enemy, but boldly
advanced to meet them. For two hours they continued the
attack, with great gallantry, when at length the Bntisli hav-
ing received a reinforcement of Indians, and our ammuraUon
beinff expended. Colonel Long was forced to retreat.
From Fort Anne to Sandy Hill, the next stage, is nine
miles, passing through the litUe village of Kingaburu. Sandy
Witfisa vill^ containing about four hundred mhabitairts,
seated on the margin of the Hudson, immediateljr above Jfa.
kef's fhlb, on a high precipitous bank, and enjo>'9 a pure
air, with a delightful prospect of variegated sceneiy. The
head of these Mh commences just at the great bend of tho
river, where it turns souUi, and the whole descent is scveii-
ty-six feet, within sixty rods. There is no perpendicular
cataroct, but the water winds in various uregular serpentine
courses, evidently worn in the rock, and descends with vast
ranidity. Here, as also at Glenn's Falls, are mills erected,
wliich give fe pleasing variety to the whole .scenery. Iho
22t
»0«T 1BW4»»— MIM M'cniA.
tiaiuition and tccoiKUiy fonrntioni are «''»»«*^» JX
iion at thi. p\Mce. 8Uty rocki compowi the wnUof the
river, and are^M^en Wing beneath the water, ""d wh« jj*
of white calcarcoiu apar, which, in (preat munbens '"tv"^
the black aUte rocka. and give them *}^'^^^fV^^:
rendered more brilliant by the ref«ctive effect "f "•«*?»»''
through which they are Ken. 8e«ral ?«"«>«».»«/« ^«*"
Sitated over tfee fall^ and met with inaunt death. Two
Sien were in a boat, above the «« "^."^Llw 3..
litUc too far, were drawn irretrievably int.. the »P««»r»«^
•a the boat passed over the dam. one of the men caugftt upon
it, and irtood braced, tUl a pUi.k. tecured by a rope. ^"
floated down to him, and he waa thua estncated from iw
dangerous aituation i but hi» companion went ovf j^^^^*"^
and wa. lost. Another ma... in a In^t, waa imneUed into tte
current, and finding hia caae hopeleaa, cJmly shipped hu
oars, and submitted to his fate. u..j^„ „4
At 8andy Hill, the traveUer may cwM the Hudson and
proceed by a direct route to Saratoga Spnngt, and tbence to
Albany. The usual road however conunues along toe ewt-
em shore of the river, and in two mUes bnngs tM to'"!*' ''f
t.^4 i vdlage with ibout two hundred antTftfty mhab.tanto
and considerable trade. ,. ,
Not far from the /.Uage, the traveller will see a little
spring, which flows limpTi and coo from a bank near th«
road*de, wliile above it rises an old tree, whose branch*.
have
years.
neariy all been torn away by the tempesU of many
years. On iU bark he wiU see the words '• J*h« M Cbm
1777"— and he will not pass it without drouping a tear »»
he contempUte. the un&mefy fate «f y«>:jt»»fid »»*«»'""''t
Her trairic tale is short and simple. The daughter «* * «;
spectabTe man who resided in ^e neighbourhood, she had
unfortunately yielded her affectiona to an officer in the Bn^
ish army. As fienend Burgoyne pursued hu jn««h f^™ «™
north, the Americans retreated before it and left Fort VAwuA.
With the imprudence of her sex and ajje, increased perhapi
by the hope of thus more easily meetin^r her over, "he bn-
jret«d behind her countrymen, and «"»"«»«* at the fort. In
Sie meantime, the young soldier, anxious to behold his d«.
tined bride, but probably unable to leave »"» ««P» »»Jf *
moment, despatched, and it waa «n act of unpardonable rash- 1
to
jirc
Ice
tha
fe«
by
fil
I hi
— mil M*cmBA.
AtioM »rc iaid to fonn a June
k» compote the b»nk« of the
eath the water t ami when the
sight is preaented by the veira
ch, in KTcat munbera, interaect
c them a tcMelated appcarmnce,
e refractire effect of the water,
I. Several peraona have been
d met with intUnt death. Two
the miU-dam, and ventuiing*
trievably intw the rapid water* i
im, one of the men caught upon
plank, secured by a rope, wu
i; waa thus extricated from hn
companion went over the dam,
in a boat, waa impelled Into the
« bopeleai, calmly shipped his
■te. , .
Her may crosa the Hudson and
Saratoga Springs, and thence to
jwcver commues along the ewt-
I two miles brings us to Fort Ed-
wo hundred and fifty inhabitanto
!, the traveller will see a litUe
and cool from a bank near the
ises an old tree, whose branches
away by the tempetU of many
II see the words "Jaii« M'Caa*
AS it without dropping a tear st
nely fate of youthful loveliness.
1 ample. The daughter of * »«;
d in tne neighbourhood, she had I
tffections to an officer in the Bnt' 1
royne pursued his march from the |
!ted before it and left Fort Edward. I
er sex and age, ii.creased perhapi
ea«ly meeting her lover, she ton-
ncn, and remained at the fort In
soklier, anxioua to behold hia de»-
unable to leave his corps at the
it was an act of unpardonable rash-
Mist m'crbi. 92T
ncu, a party of Indians, in whom he belieml implicit reli-
ance might be placed, to bear her to the British camp. Why
he (lid not go fur her himself, or whv at least he did not tc-
conipany his savagr emissaries, is unknown i tlie fatal event
too sadly proved now vainly he had reposed his confidence.
Sorelv against the wishes and remonstrances of her friends,
did the unthinking girl commit herself to the care of these
fiends, and mounting hor horiM.-, nhe rode by their side until
they arrived at this little Hpring, where they halted for a mo-
ment to drink. As they were resting here, another party of
Indians arrived. Diflcrcnt accounts are given of their object;
by some it is said, timt they were despatched by tlie impa-
tient lover to hasten the former party, with whom they im-
mediately quarrelled for the office uf conducting the maiden
to tlie camp i by others, and perhaps with more probability,
we are tola, that they were a band of ferocious savages, who
had been overrunning the surrounding country, and deter-
mined to seize the prev which now oncred, for tliemsclves.
Whichever may have been the case, scarcely had they met
u'licn a bloody conflict arose, the innocent girl perished bv
the tomahawk of one of these inhuman monsters { and, with
the very acm^ of horror, when the expecting lover nished
to meet the expected object of liis afllction, the murdcrew
presented him with her scalp. He survived but to indulge
Icclings tliat no time could assiiage, and at length died bc-
iieatli their influence. The recital of this deed of atrocity filled
every breast, as well in Europe as America, with horror, and
j lias stimped a lasting infamy upon those who called to their
I aid these uncivilized barbarians, and who affected to believe
that the laws of their couiiti^ prohibited their punishment.
1 About a mile and a half above the village of Fort E-.ampa^
He village* of Fish Creek, %mUoga and Bemm' Heighh,
»"«een S to SliUwaier. There is noth.ng to require par-
stiEned in .Las an.l nfen, was advancing to meet l«m,
O^Ihe 18th thefronts of tlie two armies were almost m co»-
Sct^nriiiSe sE-mishing ensued, but witi»out causmg .
^*Onlrf!Cgly. about twelve o'clock, the f«;st ba«ie
^^I^TTE called IWeman'i, tWin, a short d.s-
Tcrbdoi the*>?£e of Bemi.. "eights ,tUespo^^^^^^^^^ I
nointed out. about two miles to the %vest of the nver. A ^ut
Sart of the gZml is covered by lofty forest t'f«^ P""«'P»
Stne. with a few cleared fields scattered about , manv ol the
their sombre foliage sUU murmurs with the br.eze. »luca
G
txnnrtios.
y, after several weeks of severe
B mentioned at Fort Anne. In
ler, in consequence o» General
iree weeks at Skenesborough,
adable obstnictions in his way.
in Wood creek, and across the
wlished bridges, and by every
impeded his march, that th«
1 Fort Edward, on U»e Hudson,
Fort Miller, the road leads us
mffh Saratoga county, and pasi-
r, Saratoga and Bemiss' Hetghit,
There is nothing to re<^uire par-
arical reminiscences which arise,
flats are principally a stiffargi •
hills have the same kind ot sou,
1 or mavel. The timber on these
imit, &c. 5 on the loamy pjams,
uttemut; and on the sandy loam,
September, General Burgoyne
1 a bridge of boats, not tar from
without any material opposition,
till, on Uie irth, his advanced
s of the American army, whicli,
IRC gained at Bennington, and
ifen, was advancing to meet him.
le two armies were almost in con-
; ensued, but without causing a |
>ut twelve o'clock, the firet battle I
led Fremati'n Farm, a short dis-
Bemiss' Heights, the spot is std
s to the west of the river. A great
■d by lofty forest trees, pnncipall)
Ids scattered about, many of the
- scenes of former days, tliey still
their trunks and branches, by t ue
ies , their roots still penetrate tlie
I by the blood of the brave, and
murmurs with the br.eze. which
BATTLK AT FBBBMAh's FAEM.
229
once bore along tlie sighs of departing spirits. The ac-
tion was continued with great bravery, on both sides, unUl
night i when each army returned to its respective camp, and
retained the same position it held before the commencement
of the battle. This circumstance however was almost as in-
jurious to the British as a defeat , cut off from all sources of
supply, it had become absolutely necessary that they should
force their march to the south at all hazards. For several
days, each army kept its ground with great anxiety , it was
evident that tlie crisis was arrived, when the fate of this cam-
paign must be decided. " Not a night passed," says General
Burgoyne, " without firing, and sometimes concerted attacks
upon our pickets, no foraging party could be made, without
great detachments to cover it. By being habituated to fire,
our soldiers became indifferent to it, and were capable of
eating or sleeping when it was very near them j but I do not
believe that eitlier officer or soldier ever slept, during that
interval, without his clothes, or that any general officer, or
commander of a re^ment, passed a single night without be-
iiig upon his legs occasionally, at different houis, and con-
i,iantly an hour before day light."
At length the British commander determined to attempt
a decisive stroke. On the 7th of October he put himself at
the head of a detachment of fifteen hundred rejjular troops,
with two twelve-poundere, two howitzers, and six six-pound-
crs. He was seconded by Generals Phillips, Heidesel, and
Frazer, all officers distinguished for their zeal and ability. As
soon as the advance of the British was poreeivu.l, Gcneiul
Gates lost no time in leading out liis troops, who advanced to
the charge with great impetuosity. Tlie battle continued
through the day, and both parties suffered under a severe
fire , General Fni^er fell, mortally wounded, at tlie head of
his division, and Colonel Brcyiiiaii wasi killed while leading
on the German troops; this corps was nearly cut to pieces,
and forced to retreat in the most precipitate manner, leaving
the British encampment on the right entirely uiiprotected,
and liable to be assailed the next morning. All the British
officers bear testimony to the valour and obstinacy ot the
attack of the Americans. The fact was, the Bntish were sore-
ly defeated, routed and vigorously pui-sued to their hnes,
wliich, it seems probable, would have been entirelycamed
by assault, had not daikness, as in the battle of the 19th, put
U
230
BrBOOTSts'a BXPEftlTIOH.
an end to the sanguinary contest. It is obvious, fifom Genewl
BuSoyne's own Iccount, and from the tesUmony of h« offi-
cewT iLt this was a severe defeat , and such a one as has
S been experienced by a British army , the titwps wej^
reduced by it to the greatest distress, and nothing but mght
oavrA them from destruction. . - . ,
Amonrth^many prisoners taken on this fatal day. were
Sir Sis Clarke.'fi«t aid-de-camp of Genera^ T^^^Z'
Sljorickland, commander of grenadiers , RIajor Wdhams.
commander of artUlerj', and many other disUnguished officers.
g3 WilkiBson, wlio was present during tiiis campaign,
Sid eSaged in the different battles, has recorded, m his own
memo&any interesting anecdotes relative to it. Among
ShTrhe mentions several passages of the last momenta of
lb mncis Clarke, who discussed with General Gates, as he
Z moS wounded in hi. house, the merits of tiie revdu.
iion and awaited his fate with munly composure, it was
SrTwilkinson's good fortune also, to save the life of the
Sunt AYkland, at tlfe moment when a soldier had aimed h«
Set at him, as he lay against a fence wounded m both
^T^rm houses are dispersed here and there, over the field
of b^e. and the people often find, even now, gun-barrels
^d bly«"e^ <=*""°" ^^'^ grape;*^hot, bullets and human
b^nes Such are the memorials suU exisung, ot these great
S^y events , great, not so much on account of the nun.-
£ oTthlTctors. as frem the momentous interests at stake,
and from tiie magnanimous efforts to which they gave origin.
The night of tL 7th of October was a most cr.ical one to
♦he roval annv« in the courae of it they abandoned thetf
iamrcha^^d their whole position, and retreated to diejr
w^ks upmfthe heights, contiguous to tiie river, and imme-
diately behind the hospital. .
On Uie 8tli tiie British were employed m buiyin? their
dead. Genei-al Frazer, when dying, had sent, witii ' i.t- . a-
est expression of his affection tor General Burgoy.'c
quest tiiat he might be carried without parade, by the -
of his corps, to Uie great redoubt, anA buned there. h,
bodv. attended by the commander m chiet and the t,,..
ScipTofficei.s of Uie ain.y, who could not resist the im-
pulie to join the procession, moved, winding slowly up the
wi'
th(
tia
th<
sei
wl
on
lie
m
U
m
w
m
d(
ce
St
9t
n<
in
H
k
EXVEblTIOS'.
est. It is obvious, from General
. from the testimony of his offi-
iefeat 5 and such a one as has
British army ; the troops were
distress, and nothing but mglrt
s taken on this fatal day, were
le-camp of General Bui^yne ;
jf grenadiers 5 Major Wdliams,
any other distinguished officers,
present during this campaign,
battles, has recorded, in his own
necdotes relative to it. Among
passages of the last moments of
iissed with General Gates, as he
house, the merits of tlie revolu-
vith manly composure, it was
rtune also, to save the life of the
ent when a soldier had aimed his
f^nst a fence wounded in both
1 here and there, over the field
ften find, even now, gun-barrels
grapc-sliot, bullets and human
rials still existing, of these great
,0 much on account of the num-
le momentous interests at stake,
eftbrts to which they gave origin,
ctober was a most critical one for
irse of it they abandoned their
position, and retreated to their
ntiguous to tlie river, and imrae-
yreie employed in burylnp- their
ri dying, had sent, with ' ne ^ a.-
ion for General Burgoy.c
sd without parade, by the -
edoubt, and buried there,
umander in chief and the i; .. • -
iiy, who could not resist the im-
[1, moved, winding slowly up the
FUXEHAX. OF OEREBAl FRAZEB-
231
hill, within view of the gi-eater part of both armies, while an
incessant cannonade from the Americans, wlio observed a
collection of people, without knowing the occasion, covered
tlie procession with dust. The clergyman, the Kev. »Ir.
Brudenel, went through the funeral service with perfect
composure and propriety, notwithstanding the cannonade,
and thus the last honours were paid to one of the chiets ot the
British army. Tlie Baroness tteidesel, who was a spectator,
says that the funeral service was rendered unusually solemn
and awful, from its being accompanied by constant peals from
the enemy's artillery ; " many cannon balls," she adds, " flew
ckwe by me, but 1 had my eyes du«cted to the mountain,
where my husband was, standing amidst the fire of the enemy,
and of course I could not think of my own danger." Genei^
Bunroyne's eloquent delineation of the same scene, although
often quoted before by others, is too interesting to be omit-
ted in a work like this. " The incessant cannonade, during
the solemnity ; the steady attitude and unaltered voice with
which the clergyman officiated, though frequently covered
with dust, whidi the shot threw up on all sides around him ;
the mute but expressive mixture of sensibility and indigna-
tion upon every countenance ; these objects will remain, to
the last of life, upon the mind of eveiy man who was pre-
sent. The growing duskiness added to tlie scenery, and the
whole marked a characterof that juncture, that would make
one of the finest subjects for the pencil of a master, that the
field ever exhibited. To the canvass, and to the page of a
more important historian, gallant friend! I consign thy memo-
ry. There may thy talents, thy manly virtues, their progress,
and their period, find due distinction, and long may they sur .
rive; long after the frwl record of my pen shall be forgotten.
About nine o'clock this evening the British army com-
menced a retreat, pursuing the river road through the mea-
dows. It moved aU night ; but tlie succeeding day was ex-
cesrively rainy, and the roads so bad, that they did not reach
Saratoga, a distance of only six miles, tUl the evemng o» the
9th. The nuns had so swelled tiie FishkiU, that they did
not pass that rivulet till the morning of the 10th, when, find-
ing their enemies already in possession of the fords o' f'e
Hudson, they took up a strong position, which proved their
final one.
232
BunooTHs'ii EzvBniTiox.
At this period, an anecdote 'w recorded by General Wil-
kinson, which presents so beautiful a picture of foititude,
resignation and affection, that it must not be omitted. Lady
Harriet Ackland had accompanied her husband throughaU
the dangers and hartlships of this campai^ ; separated from
him at length by his capture, she obtamed from General
Burgoync, permission to seek the American camp, and win
the pnsoner. About ten o'clock in the evening, a sentinel on
the shore of the river saw a boat approaching ; and fanding
that it contained this noble woman, who had brought a letter
from General Burgoyne to General Gates, she was received
with every attention; during the night, she reposed in the
cabin of one of the officers, and early in the morning wm
conveyed to the head quarters of the army. " General Gates,
says Colonel WilkinMin, " stood ready to receive her, wrtb au
the tenderness and respect to which her r»nk and condition
gave her a cUum : indeed the feminine figure, the bemgn as<
pect, and polished manners of this charming woman, were
alone sufficient to attract the i^ipathy of the most obdurate;
but if another motive could have been wanting to inspire re-
spect, it was fumUhed by the pecuUar circumstances of Lady
Harriet, then in that most delicate situation, which cannot
faU to interest the aolicitudea of every being posMssing the
form and feelings of a man. Every kindness and attentiwi
was paid to her, and she was safely conveyed to her husband,
who had grone to Albany." , _ . • ^
Six days more of anxiety, fatigue and suffering, remained
for the British army. They had lost part of the batteaux that
carried their supplies, when they abandoned the hospital, and
the rest being exposed to imminent danger, the small stock
of provisions remaining was landed under a heavy fire, and
hauled up the heights. The account which the Baroneu
Beidcsel gives of their sufferings is indeed dreadful. This no-
ble woman, Uke Lady Ackbnd, had accomparaed her hus-
band through the campaign, and General Wilkinson has pre-
served the journal in which she recorded its gloomy history.
« The constant danger my husband was in," she writes " kept
me in a state of wretchedness, and I asked myself if it was
possible I should be the only happy one, and have my hus-
band spared to me unhurt, exposed as he was to so n»ny
perils. He never entered his tent, but Isud down whole
lip
ki
EXVEDITIOX.
e is recorded by General Wil-
;autiful a picture of fortitude,
it must not be omitted. Ladv
mied her husband througph all
this can>paiffn ; separated from
e, she obtained from General
: the American camp, and Join
ck in the evening, a sentinel on
boat approaching ; and finding
)man, who had brought a letter
eneral Gates, she was received
; the night, she reposed in the
and early in the morning was
3 of the army. " General Gates,"
od ready to receive her, witii all
} which her rank and condition
I feminine figure, the bemgn as-
of this charming woman, were
sympathy of the most obdurate;
lave been wanting to inspire re.
: peculiar circumstances of Lady
lelicatc situation, which cannot
) of every being possessing the
Every Idndness and attention
safely conveyed to her husband,
fatigue and suffering, remMned
»ad lost part of the batteaux that
they abandoned the hospital, and
(nminent danger, the small stock
I knded under a heavy fire, and
he account which the Baroness
ings is indeed dreadful. This no-
land, had accompanied her hus-
, and General WUkinson has pre-
she recorded its gloomy history,
isband was in," she writes, " kept
ess, and I asked myself if it was
ly happy one, and have my hus-
, exposed as he was to so many
his tent, but Isdd down whole
■ABOStSS BtlSKSU's KASBATITI.
333
nights by the watch-fires = this alone was enough to have
killed him, the cold was so intense. The want of water dis-
tressed us much 5 at length we found a soldier's wife, who
had courage enough to fetch us some from the nver, an of-
hce no one else would undertake, as the Americans shot at
every person who approached it, but out of respect for her
sex they never molested her. One day General Phillips ac-
companied my husband, at the risk of their lives, on a visit to
us, and after having witnessed our situation, said to him, •!
would not for ten thousand guineas come again to this place,
my heart is almost broken.' In this horrid Mtuation we re,
mained six daysi a cessation of hostilities was now spoken of,
and eventually took place; a convention was afterwards
agreed upon, but one day a message was sent to my husband,
who had visited me and was reposing in my bed, to attend a
council of war, where it was proposed to break the conven.
tion i but to my great joy, the majority was for adhering to it.
Cnthe 17th of October, the convention was completed, and
General Burgoyne and the other generals waited on the
American commander in chief. My husband sent a message
to me to come over to him with my children. When I drew
nea' ' e tents, a handsome man approached and met me,
too. my children fi-om the calash, and hugged and kissed
them, which affected me almost to tears. • You tremble,' said
he, addressing himself to me, ' but do not be al'raid.* • No,' I
answered, 'you seem so kind and tender to my children, it
inspires me with courage.' He tlien led me to the tent of
General Gates, where I found Generals Burgoj^ne and Phil-
lips, who were on a friendly footing with the former. Bur-
goyne said to me ' never mind, your sorrows have now an
end.' I answered him that I should be reprehensible to have
any cares, as he had none ; and 1 was pleased to see him on
such friendly terms with General Gates. AU the generals
remained to dine with him. The same gentleman who re-
ceived me so kindly, now came and siud to me, • you will be
very much embarrassed to eat with all these gentlemen j come
with your children to my tent, where I will prepare for you
afrural dinner, and give it with free will.' I said, 'you are
certainly a husband and a father, you have shown me so much
kindness.' I now found that he was General Schuyler.
Some days i^r thia we anived at Albany, where we had so
im
234
BomeoTRk's bxpeditioh.
often wished ourselves; but we did not enter >»«• ^e expect,
cd we should— M victors ! We were received by the good
General Schuyler, his wife anddaughters, not m enemies, but
kind friends ; and they treated us with the most marked U.
tention and politeness, as they did General Burpovne, who
had caused General Schuyler's beautiful h«juae to be burnt;
in fact they behaved like persons of exalted minds, who de-
termined to bury all recollections of theu- own injuries m the
contemplation of our misfortunes. General Burgoyne was
struck with General Schuyler's generosity, and said to him,
•you show me great kindness, although I have done you
niuch injury.' ' That was the fate of war,' replied the brave
man, 'let us say no more about it!'" , , .. „. uwii
On the 17th of October 1777, on Uie banks of the Fishkdl,
General Burgoyne and his army surrendered to GenenJ
Gates; deKvering up their artillery, arms and storey and
Dledeinir themselves not to serve again in America during
&ie war. General Wilkinson, who was present, ttius descnbes
the scene.—" Early in tht morning of the 17th, I visited |
General Burgoyne m his camp, and accompanied him tothe
ground, where his army was to lay down their ams, from
whence we lode to the bank of the Hudson nver, which he
surveyed with attention, and asked me whether it wa« not
fordable. • Certainty, sir,' but do you observe the peojrfe on
the opposite shore >• 'Yes,' replied he, 'I have seen them
too lonff.' He then proposed to be introduced to Gener^
Gates, and we crossed the FishkiU, and proceeded to head |
quarters. General Burgoyne in front, with 1«» Adjutant-Gene-
?al Kingston and his aids^le^mp Lord Petersham and Lieo-
tenant Wilfoid behind him; then foUowed Majo^General
Phillips the Baron Reidesel, and the other generd officen
and their suites, accor^ng to rank. QcnMaK^a, ■dvwd
of Buntoyne's approach, met him at the head of h« camp ;
Buigc^e in a ricfe royal uniform, and Gates in a pl«n Wue
frock; when they had approached nearly within sword s- 1
lenjrtb. they reined up, and halted; I there named the gen-
tlemen, and General B awoyne, raimng his hat most gi««™;
ly. said, « The fortune of war, General Gates, hM made me
vour priwner;' to which the conqueror returned a cowtly
Sutefand prompUy replied, ' I »»»^ »|'™y»^e '«»^yto betf
testimony, &at it h» wKt been tbroogh MV *«*" y«" ***
I IxrEPITIOK.
?e did not enter it as we expect.
(Ve were received by the good
d daughters, not as enemies, but
ed us with the most marked at-
ley did General Burpoyne, who
r's beautiful house to be burnt;
reons of exalted minds, who de-
tions of their own injuries in the
rtunes. General Burjfoyne was
ir's generosity, and said to lum,
less, although I have done you
e fate of war,' replied the brave
)outit!"'
77, on the banks of the Fishkill,
1 army surrendered to General
artiileiy, arms and stores, and
» serve agun in America during
1, who was present, thus describes
: morning of the 17th, I vimted
mp, and accompanied him to the
as to lay down their aims, firom
k of the Hudson river, which he
id asked me whether it was not
>ut do you observe the people on
,• replied he, M have seen them
>ged to be introduced to Genenl
Fishkill, and proceeded to head
B in front, with his Adjutant-Gene-
e-camp Lord Petersham and Ijet-
m ; then followed Majo(r«eneral
lel, and the other general officers
to rank. General Gates, adwaed
net him at the head of his camp i
imform, and Gates in a phin Wue
jproached nearly within swords-
id halted I I there named the g«n'
oyne, raiang his hat most gracefiji-
war, General Gates, has made me
the conqueror returned a courtly
ed, •! shall always be ready to bear
been tbraogb wy finik of yow ex-
sumBKXDn.
335
ccUency.' Major-General Phillips then advance^ and he and
Sei^lGates^ saluted, and ''»'OO^h»?d« ^'* ^^i^/'^S'^i
dr old acquaintances. The Baron Reidesel, and the other of-
ficers, were introdviced in their turn. ^.^.^
From Stillwater, the road P^^e^s J^?"«f .*? ,!^'^'?
rfiore of the Hudson, through Anthony's Kdl and Waterfwd,
M we have before described it, twenty-four miles to Albany.
• Fttge 13-59.
236 llOtTTE moM BDRLUrOTOH TO BOgTOH.
BURLINGTON TO BOSTON.
M.
BcmiwoTOH to
Williston
Bolton °
Wateibury °
Montpelier J^
Williamstown 12
Brookfield °
Randolph °
Royalton --- ^
Barnard °
Woodstock °
Hartland ^
Windsor °
Cross Connecticut River by Cornish Bndge
Cornish ^
Claremont °
Sugar River ^
Newport ^
Goshen 4
Washington 1^
Hillsborough lO
Contocook River 3
Francistown -.11
Mount Vernon '^
jlmheral •- ^
Dunstable 14
Cross Nashua River
New-Hampshire State line 5
Tynesborough 8
Chelmsford *
Bellerica 8
Cross Middlesex Car"&. «**»«'" A"*"."'^?*'^
jects, the range of the Green Mountains, wrth its toun ^
lofty summits, commencing in the south, as far as the eye
a?reTh, declines away northward, until «* ^ec^mes^ppa-
rently blended with the common surface Amo^S the Gret
Mountains, there are two which rise with l^^ l^^^"* «J°7.
all the rest , one of them named the Camels ^'Tf • ™^^-
mel's Back or the Camel, the other ^\^T'^^i<^'^^:
JkU. The latter of these was proved, by ti»f foUcwing e%.
Sent, some years since, to be h^her f »" ^^e fomer. ^
Lnter. who h'ad ascended to its highest point, Duti^^^
piece a small ball, and pointing it at the apex of the Camel,
n^tSforof Burlington, the road strike. ^^^^^^
the valley of Onion River, along which 'tj^"""!!' ^eSf r
thirty-eight miles. A smaU part of _^^»^5/',J^^ P,^_
through forests, most of which are rendered parUcularly plea-
338
WAxmnim— MeHTHum.
sant and shady by the multit- dc of beautiful and lofty white
pines of which they are composed. A great part of the tract
through which our journey lies, is however thinly settled,
and wears every mark of a late colonization, such as houses
and fences built r* logs, girdled trees, stumps, and fieldi
imperfectly i-.leared. The river is a pretty stream, perfectly
clear, always winding beautifully along, cheerful in its cur.
rent, and awakening the most hvely impressions of sweetneM
and salubrity. Its borders also are lined with mtervals, re-
markably handsome and fertile.
The verdure of the numerous and rich meadows which
border the road, is extremely luxuriant. The forest trees are
thriving and noble. The hills presenting many handsome
accLvitics, show us flourishing farms, advancing rapidly
towards a thorough cultivation. Often behind them, and
often rising immediately from the road, objects invested with
awfy grandeur, are finely contrasted with this smiling scene-
ry. On the north side, partictilarly, a lonp succession of naked
rocks and stupendous precipices, principally schistose, fomi
wild, nigged and magnificent counterparts to the rwde moun-
tuns on the eastern continent, as exhibit' d in plates and de-
scriptions. On the southern side of the . '•r, the mountains
are universally covered with forests: even i e Camel's Back,
which at little intervals is visible all along this road, and looks
down on the regions below with proud sublimity, is covered
with evergreens to its summit.
At Waterbury, Onion river has worn a stupendous passage
through two mountainous promontories of slate, between
six hundred and a thousand feet in length. The precipices
on both Mdes are lofty , the perpendicular height of that on
the south is not less than one hundred and fifty feet. A col-
lection of huge misshapen rocks has here been tumbled into
the river t, and, when it is at its usual height, completely co-
vers its bed. The gloominess of this passage, the pile of
ruins beneath which the river ruas, the noise of the torrent,
and the solemn grandeur of the precipices, form a combina-
tion of scenery which a Welsh or Highland bard would
describe with raptiurc.
Manipelier is a town situated in a valley at the confluence
of the two head waters of Onion river. It has about eig^t
hundred inhabitants. It is the capital of the state of Ver-
mont, and contains the state-house, prison, and other public
bui
I— MeHTnuM'
t- dc of beautiful and loflv white
iposed. A great part of the tract
lies, if however thinly »cttled,
late colonization, «uch as houses
;irdled trees, stumps, and fields
iver is a pretty stream, perfectly i
tifully along, cheerful in its cur.
stlively impressions of sweetness I
also are lined with intervals, re.
tile.
lerous and rich meadows which
ly luxuriant. The forest trees are
hiUs presenting many handsome
shing farms, advancing rapidly
ition. Often behind them, and
m the road, objects invested with
;ontrasted with this smiling scene-
:ularly, a long succession of naked
ipices, principally schistose, fomi
nt counterparts to the rude moun-
snt, as exhibit- d in plates and de.
n side of the . 'r, the mountains
h forests: even i e Camel's Back,
sible all along this road, and looks
with proud sublimity, is covered
mtt.
er has worn a stupendous passage
promontories of slate, between
1 feet in length. The precipices
le perpendicular heigfht of that on
ne hundred and fifty feet. A col-
rocks has here been tumbled into
It its usual height, completely co-
iness of this passage, the pile of
ver runs, the noise of the torrent,
f the precipices, form a combina-
Welsh or Highland bard would
lated in a valley at the confluence
Onion river. It has about eig^t
is the capital of the state of Ver-
ite-house, prison, and other public
»««ti!r-~wiu.i*nsTOWir— BBooKfuin.
339
buil^ngt. This place is so secluded, that it seems as if the
1 government had sought retirement more than publicity, m
filing itself here. It is probable, however, that the choice
proceeded from a regard to a central position, as this place
IS only ten mUes from the middle of the state.
The road now passes for sixty -four miles to Windsor, on
the Connecticut river. Berlin, the first township through
which we travel, is situated on very high ground, about twen-
ty miles eastward of the Camel's Back. The surface is *
succession of gradual slopes and open vallevs. The soil ia
I good grazing land, and the township is distributed into farmi
1 recenfly setUed. The inhabitants have built a church, on an
eminence about half a mile westwardly from the road.
I Williamstoum lies on an elevation, little if at all beneath
that of Berlin. That part of the township through which we
I travel, is however much more pleasant. The settlemento we
I fiirther advanced) the soil is rich) and the inhabitants, by the
appearance of their farms and ' uildings, are in prosperous cir-
1 cumstances. From the highest ground on this road, there m
I a most magnificent view over the Tonnecticut vaUey; termi-
1 nated eastward by Moose-hillock, -t the distance of between
I thirty and forty miles j and nortli-eastward, at the distance of
I about sixty or seventy, by the White Mountiuns.
1 Brookfield lies on the declension of tlie same hills, and is
generally of the same appeanince. The soil on our road is
however less fertile, and tlie face of the country less plea-
Isant Soon after entering this township, we come upon
lone of the head waters of the Wliit* river j and descending
I very rapidly, soon arrive at the foot of the mountains. Here
I we enter a narrow, flat valley, presenting a succession of
I verdant intervals, bordering a clear, praUlmg stream. The
IhiUs by which it is limited, are iiowcver iicitlier tertile
[nor pleasant. Ki Randolph, which we reach in six miles,
I there is a small village built along thm brook, here swollen
I into a miU-stream. It contains about thirty buildings, houses,
I stores, mechanics' shops, and, what is always very welcome
I to a traveller, a good inn. , -^ u
I The village of Homllon consists of about thirty houses,
I surrounding a well-built academy. Few objects are more
I cheerful than this little cluster. Just before reaching u, we
lare presented also witli a beautiful expansion, tormed by tJie
Ijunction of two branches of the White river.
340
WOODltTOCK— AlCIVTMtr.
There in u rcMul which here iitriket off to the left, Iwent)
■even miles, to Darlmoulh CoUtge. Puwuing however tlie
regular route, we reach in fifteen niilc* from Hoyalton tlie
town of Woodttoek, built at the junction of the two branches
of the tyalerii over whidi we have been past-
pie and grand. About seven milet I
ive country begins i and the fixed
ledges itorth-eaut and suuth-wetl,
:lmed in their position, and with
, are mica slate, gneiss, clay slate,
Inte is fur the most abundant. In I
Ics, hornblende prevails; but there
tranite, however, in loose rolled
i^liing many tons, prevails for the
lough to buiki several cities : it ii
giain, the feldspar is white, the
lack, and it is used along the road
I it appears certain that there are
in this region. These masses of
ince of having been brought down
IS i for they are observed in deep
in the beds of water-courses, on
ligh up on tile aides of the moun-
WI!llc(l and rounded i most uf them ap-
prosoh the globular funii, and all have their angles and edges
woni away.
fVitultor is a flourishing town, the capital of the cmmty of
Windsor, and evidently siiperior to any other in the state of
Vermont, on the eastern side of the Ureen Mountains. The
gn-at body of the town, however, consists of a single street,
purallel with the river, not far from two miles in length, and
iyin)( on the plain at the foot of the hills. The houses in
Windsor arc generally good, and several of tlieni are built
in a handsome style. Very few inland towns in New-Rng-
land appear to equal advantage. The court-house, whiuit
stands on the norUi-eastem corner of the upper part of tlio
plain, is an oixlinary building : the church, situated on its
declivity, is large and has a good appearance. On tlio
pliiin, the Legisluturc have stationed their state prison. It
i> a lar■ i. a
group of iiiKi'usthig objects, on which no eye, cipabtt of
being delighted witli the beauties of nature, can fail to redt
witli peculiar pleasure.
Sixteen miles above Windsor, on the oppiisitc b.iuk of the
river, is Dartmouth College, a liteRiry institution of cunsidt. •
able celebrity. It derived its name from William, earl of
Dartmouth, one of its most considerable benefactors; and was
founded, in the year 1769, by the vigilant and persevering
ind\istry of the Hev. Dr. Eleazer Wheelock, formerly a minis-
ter of Lebanon in Connecticut, Here this gentleman had be-
fore set up an academy, intended particularly for misnon-
aries, who were to spread the gospel among the western In-
dians ; and in this school several of the Aborigines were fit-
ted to enter upon a coUegiate education. Several of them.
X
342
DARTMOrTH COHBOE— CliaiMOST.
were placed in colleges, and receircd «'f ."«"f\'l'=5^„'; ^'•
most all of them however renounced, ultimutely, tijie advwi-
tages which they had acquired; and returned to the gross-
The principal collegiate buUding, which is of wood, i» one
hundred and fifty feet by fifly, and three stones high ; it is
painted white. Besides thirty-four private rooms lor the stu-
Sents, it contains all the public rooms, except those for the
medical lectures and the cliapel. At a small distance from
the college, southward, stands a chapel, the arched ceiling
of which, ascending from the four sides, produces the same
effect as the whispering gallery m the dome of St. Pauls.
A Whisper, uttered in one of the angles with so low a sound
as not to be audible six feet from the speaker, is verv distmct-
ly heard in the opposite angle. The hbrary contains about
four thousand volumes. The apparatus of this insUtuUon is
not very extensive, but is competent to the most importan
purposes of insUuction. There are two hbrancs, of about
two thousand volumes each, belonging to pr.v-ate societies
among the students. There is a separate building for com-
moiis, but ut present none are mwntamed; the students board
in the village, and many of them occupy apartments in it.
From M'lntlsor we cross the Connecticut nver into New-
Hampshire, on a bridge of two arches, each of which is one
hundred and forty-four feet span. The ro«l leads us through
the township of Cornkh to Ckremont, a village situated on
Sugar Rivers the country is fine and undulating, covered
with a rich, gi-avelly loam, converted into the best meatlows
and pastures? The hilUt are sloping acclivities, crowned with
elegant summits. The township is chiefly distributed into
plantations. The houses in many instances are good, ami the
indications of prosperity abundant. Claremont is one o» the
wealtiuest districts in this county! rjid in its soil inferior to very
few on the river. The country around was, in former timei^
freeuentiy tile scene of bloody conflicts witii the Indians and
Canadians \ a short disUnce below, a kind of fort had been
erected, where now stands the village of Chark»U/wnt and
this was the object of frequent assaults.
In the year 1747, Captain Stevens, a partisan ofticer ot
meat mdlantry, finding this Uttie fortress in a sUte wluch ad-
Siitted of its being defended, determined to garrison it. Sooa
after, it was atucked by a large body of Canadians and »av»
\z
tlBOE— CliaiMOHT.
received the usual degrees. Al-
enounced, ultimately, the advan-
red } and returned to the gross-
)uilding, which is of wood, iii one
ifty, and three stories high; it is
ty-four private rooms for the stu-
iblic rooms, except those for the
lapel. At a small distance from
nds a chapel, the arched ceihng
he four sides, produces the same
lUery in the dome of St. Paul's,
jf the angles with so low a sound
from the speaker, is very distinct-
igle. The library conUuns about
he apparatus of this institution is
:ompetent to the most iraportent
rhere are two libraries, of about
b, belonging to private societies
re is a separate building for com-
ire mauntwned} the students board
' them occupy apartments in it.
) the Connecticut river into New-
two arches, each of which is one
tspan. The road leads us through
Ctaremont, a village situated on
r is fine and undulating, covered
, converted into the best meailows
J sloping acclivities, cro*ned with
(wnship is chiefly distributed into
1 many instances are good, and the
ibundant. Claremont is one of the
ounty ; rjid in its soil inferior to very
luntiy around was, in former time*,
oody conflicts with the Indians and
ce below, a kind of fort had been
Is tlie village of Charlatown ,- and
juent assaiuts.
tain Stevens, a partisan oflicer ol
lis little fortress in a state wliich ad-
ed, determined to garrison it. Sooa
i Itfge body < *??•"
a handsome obiect Its foundation is >'t?!»"y « '~*^/" '* "
erected not only upon the precipices which form the »«««,
but upon tlie very ledges which interrupt Ae course of Ac
river, and rise ciml^ out of the turbulent ««jje J^hat ««•
rounds them. This u said to have been the jarhert br^
erected over the Connecticut, and the view of the foOsJnm
it is veiy interesting. The water, which ft • «""« J^^"
above comes rushing over and among very tugged w>cltM»-
rives in an extremely agitated sUte at the bridge, under
which is the grand pass, for the stream is here narrowed in-
to the widtii of apparently twenty or thirty &«*• ."^ ™*«
through with great rapiity. It i. all foam, and both mv
mediately above and below the bridge, resembles the mw^
violent breaking of the waves of tiie ocean, when dashed up.
on the rocks by a furious tempest.
Pursuing however our direct course across tte swe a
New Hampshire, we pass through the vUk^ of flifl»6orow*
and Ptmuulown, across a ridge of very high land, rad in fif
S,.ux nules reach Jlmherst, seated on a plain, through which I
ows the river SouhKon .■ it is a very pretty ptoce, contsm-l
ing a church, court-house, jwl and pnntmg^ffice, and tie I
township has a population of about ewhteen hundred.
From Amherst, the road leads us in fourteen mdes to /fan
ttabk, on the shore of tlie Merrimac river. Along the v^
of this stream, we travel for seventeen m"!" to V*'^T:)I
A short distance below this village, the ifuWfe^ Cawlj
leaves tiie Merrimac, and courses along on the nde of toe rwtf
for twentyJ-jur miles, to Medfird, on^yihcRtver. The «•
ter in the'canal is tiiirty feet wide at its wrface. twenty fe^
at its bottom, and three feet deep. The Concord or Sudbutj
river crosses the line of the canal on the summit-level, hvtl
miles from the junction of the canal with the Memmac, and
wholly supplies it with water for locking down each way troin
the sJmimt-level From tide water to the sumnut-leve is an
ascent of one hundred and four feet, and from thence to the
re
be
th
Oi
b(
tit
of
th
th
ei
in
in
d
CraUSH CAXXU
he intereiting nature of iu mi.
river ii, »t th» place, very much
of roclu, and for nearly a quarter
ith va«t rapidity and tumult and
» fifty feet before it becomes tern
stands immediately over the falls,
8 to say, at the narrowest place, u
ndation is literally a rock, for it u
precipices which form the banks,
rhich interrupt the course of the
of the turbulent scene that sur.
to have been the earliest bridge
:ut, and the view of the falls from |
! water, which ft * some distance
»nd among very rugged rocks, ar
tated sUte at the bnd(^, under
ir the stream is here narrowed in-
twenty or thirty feet, and rushes
^y. It is all foam i and both im-
(V the bridge, resembles the most |
ves of the ocean, when dashed up-
lempest, _^^ ji
cUrect course acroaa the state « |
hrou^ the villages ofHiMorouA
ridge of very high hmd, and in fif-
, seated on a plain, through wnicb
r it is a very pretty ptece, contwn-
e, jail and printing-office, and the
I of about eighteen hundred.
1 leads us in fourteen miles to DutA
Merrimac river. Along the v^j
for seventeen miles to Chelnunrd.
this village, the Middktex Cm\\
bourses along on the ride of the ro»il |
^Mfard,onMyBticmvtr. Thew-
Feet wide at its surface, twenty feet
eetdeep. The Concord or Sudbui^
the canal on tlie summit-level, five
if the canal with the Merrimac, md
Iter fat locking down each way vm
tide water to the summit-level is m
id four feet, and from thence to the |
XIBDUSBX CAHAIf
345
Merrimac a descent of thirty-two feet. There are in all twen-
ty locks, of different lifts, of which the highest is twelve feet.
These locks are seventy-five feet long in the clear, ten ieet
wide at tiie bottom, and eleven feet at the top. Above Med-
t'ord is an aqueduct across the Mystic river, of which the
abutments are one hundred feet apart, and between them
are tlttee stone niers, each eight feet thick, for supporting
the aqueduct. T le tide flows up the Mystic river above
this place, f^'- surface of the water in the aqueduct, is ten
feet above the surface of the water in tlie river below, at high
water. The aqueduct consists of a kind of trougli, made of
timber and plank, which has stoo' j a number of years, but is
now beginning to decay. Over Sym's river is an aqueduct,
of which the 3)utments are a hvndred and twenty feet apart,
with three intervening piers. The water in the aqueduct is
thirty feet higher than the water in the stream below. The
aqueduct over the Shawshine river is, between the abut-
ments, one hundred and forty feet. The water in it b thir-
ty-five feet higher than the surface of the river below. This
aqueduct has been built twenty years \ it is, like the others
on this canal, made of wood, and is so much decayed as to
require temporary props to support it. There are three piers
between the abutments; and, between the outside pier and
the abutment on each side, there is a kind of wooden pier.
On the interior or river side, of both the abutments, and on
both sides of the piers, at suiUble distances, large horizonUl
timbers are imbedded, which serve to support the lower ends
of the aqueduct braces; when these timbers become rotten,
the stone work will probably fell down. From each end of
this aqueduct, to the distance of five hundred feet, is an
embankment nearly tlurty-five feet high.
The receipts of the company, from the canal, are rapidly
increasing. The income in 1808 was seven thousand dollars,
in 1809, nine thousand doHars, in 1810, fourteen thousand
doUars, in 1811, seventeen thousand dollars, in 1816, twenty-
five thousaitii dollars. ....
From Mcdford, the next stage, of sui raUes, bnngs us to
Boston.
x3
'2*6
nOCTK noU AtBAHT TO BOBTOW.
ALBANY TO BOSTON.
M.
Albawt
Cross Hudson Itiver to
Greenbush ^„
Uraon ^g
Stephentown _
Canaan ' «
Ltbanm Springs '
New-York 8tate line J
Hancock - -
Pittsfield g
Dalton g
Peru • a
Wortlungton °
Chesterfield ^„
Northampton - - *"*
Cross Connecticut Biver
Hadley " *
Belchertown *X
Ware \
Brookfield . - - - °
Spencer - ,
Leicester _
Warcater i.
Shrewsbury °
Southborough *"
Framingham
Cross Concord Biver
Natick '
Cross Charles Itiver
Needham
Be-CTOss Charles Biver
BrooUine ---- *
Roxbury ^
BosTon
M.
1
H do
13
1 '^
19
■ l.a
26
1 0'
28
■ pl
29
■
?o
■ <"
35
K
41
b
47
ti
55
a,
61
tt
73
e
a
74
h
84
n
93
a
101
a
108
b
113
c
120
s
126
t
136
I ;
141
■ '
148
153
^fXrimt^JttiM,L.
.i|l|JWI|il«i|
"lllWKHilN
IBAHT TO BOBTOir
TO BOSTON.
>
M.
12
6
7
2
i
1
5
6
6
8
6
12
1
10
9
8
7
5
7
6
10
5
7
5
■ 6
. 3
. 3
M.
1
1,^
19
. . . - -
26
28
29
10
M
41
47
55
61
73
ret
74
84
93
101
108
113
120
126
136
141
148
153
tx
159
16d
....
165
OHIKVBUSH — VVVtV — H«W WBAWOK.
247
From AtBANT to Bostow.
Akotheh route which a traveller may select, is to conttaue
down the Hudson as far as Albany, and then to strike off to
Snastward. through Massachusetts, and this «>ute jspCT-
haps Ae more prefemble. as he will not ^^^J^^.^^^X^
of vbiting the fnteresting country at the head of Lake Cham-
nlain. and in the neighbourhood of Saratoga,
^crossing the Hudi)n to the village of Gremhmh, the road
nsMes in a south-eastern direction, through the county of
&aer. twelve mUes, to Union village. Around Green-
busMlie country is beautiful and fertile, and is divided mto
fine farms, interspersed with houses and outbuildings, whose
SJeZce sufficicnay indicates the e-^y «"««X^«» «J
Seir nroprietors. From this plain, we ascend the elevated
giWy which it U bonlered and ^0", *e acclivrty
?re presented with a fine view of the city of Albany, the
luKhUds north of it. the handsome co"ntn;:««''**^."? *«
neUbourhood, the river, and the fine flats by which for
r^at extent it i» bordered on both sides. The sod w
a SUof sand and clay, replenished everywhere witti
bhck, friable slate; and the surface « covered with oak.
chesnurpine, &c. This tract is tolerably fertile, and wefl
sS to the grow* «f wl*"^- »" ^^l" '"' "'l-,?"^" ^^i!"
he rive^ the country becomes gradua ly more hdly. and Ae
cUv bee ns to be mixed with loam and gravel. Granite and
Umertone are found in considerable quantities, and the fo-
rests become chiefly oak and chesnut. . „, . , ,
The next stage oV fifteen miles, through W«»Aen/oiw. and
C«w^ biSL to Lebanon Springs. The Uutrfiil httle
,^o{N^ Lebanon is forme'd chiefly of houses erected
forT accommodation of those who frequent the mineral
sMin^tpMtof it is in the vale, the rest on the steep ascent
wWcf foW the first step of the mountain that bounds it
Befoe rThe valley spreads away, extending for several
maelfin^lv cultivated, with meadow, wood and farm houses
Sed SS/and its area smrounded on every side by
KuT^ose sides are themselves finely chequered wdi
c(iergH.W>.««l fields WTcred witb the frcAest ver-
I
243
LEBAROS HPniSUS.
dure. At a distance, tufted with wood, is seen the neat vil
laM of the Shakers. . , , r .u . .i 1 1
As the sprini,' is not very remarkable for the strength nf
its mineral quality, nor for great heat, the prmcipaJ advan- 1
taffes of Lebanon seem to arise less from the water, than from
the sol\ne8» and purity of the air, the repose and beauty ot
the place, and the exercise which those who visit it nre dis-
posed to take, from the invitation and resource 't offers i
the scenery and prospects invite m to ramble over its hilb;
and all ai-ound, the country affords pleasant ndes, especially
on horseback. This spring, however, is less the resort of
company than Saratoga and Ballston: those who are the yic
tims of disease, find ui their watei-s more powerful remedies;
whUe fa»liiu J'ji^ tJ^e de'
spring, at the distance of two miles and a half, «P«" '^^-
Svitv of the mountain, and near its base, is the Shaker's
Se w ich. with its green fields and neat houses, is r.
JleSgo^j^cUn^heoutliSTof the picture. The Shakersa^
. ^.rious sect, who have established themselves here, up-
?So«ntTnd weak tninded, those who marry, howeveiv
.r^ Mediately excluded. On the whole, there seems to
b"bu"S*Snc" amid the fi-dom of ^he P-ent^e;
.nd in this country, wh. ;« every circumstance invites ratner
tt!anSiscou^ersJ>cial intercourse, ihat their numbers will
'"Thefr^aie, or collection of buildings, is arranged along
a streei of a mile in length. All of them are comfortable.
aTaclIlierable po/on of then, -e ' ^ :^heyj«e^^^^^
most without an exception painted y^"°*' ."^^ f^^^
nlain make a handsome appearance. The utmost neatness
&sSous?nOieirfiel&«lens.cou^^^^^^^
and even in the road , not a weed, not a spot ot hWh, nor
anviSice. issufferedtoexist. Their wood. scut and piled
iSmorexacTorder, Uieir fences are perfect , even their
stone waHs we constructed with great regtilarity, a"d of ma-
Ss^o ma^y and so well arranged,, that "" ess overthrown
by force, they may stand fbr centunes: instead of wooden
I
I
230 Tnt iHAxem*.
posts for their gales, they have pillars of stone, of one solid
piecei and every thingf bears the impress of labour, rijrilance
and skill, with such a share of taste as is consistent with tlic I
austerities of their sect. Their orchards are beautiful, ami
probably no part of our country presents finer examples ot
•g^iculttiral excellence. They are said to possess nearly I
t&ee thousand acres of land, in this vicinity.
Besides agriculture, the Shakers occupy themselves with I
mechanictl employments. The prod that those who followed her should
have their uns forgiven. ' About the year 1781, she began a
progress through various parts of the counuy, particularly of
New-England, which lasted, we are told, about two years
and four months. The following year, " having finished the
work wliich was given her to do, she was taken out of the
sight of the believers, in the ordinary way of all living, at
WatervUet, on the eighth day of the ninth month," — in ho-
nest English, she died. Since the death of tlie mother, the
nfiairs oi the suciefy have liecn under the manui^emciit of
lave pillars of stone, of one solid I
rs the impress of labour, vijjilance
! of ttkste ns is consistent with the
'heir orchards are beautiful, ami
intry presents finer examples of I
rhey are said to possess nearly I
d, ill this vicinity.
Shakers occupy themselves with I
The projluctions of their industry
boxes, f ^Is, and other domestic
!Xposed for sale, and are distin-
orkmanship. Their garden seeds
I, and find a ready market. Their
[omestic manufactures and house
is fed and clothed principally by
church, a plain but neat building,
g to it, which is a remarkably
Two paths lead to it from a
>aved with marble slabs: by these,
if the church, and the women &t
lis sect, it is rather difficult to ob-
it is stud to have been founded
Inn Lee, the wife of an EngUsh
ed to be inspired, called herself
istituted a new mode of worship,
ancing." Being prosecuted for
her followers were tlirown into
caused their emigration. They
and settled in the state of New-
irds removed to the state of New-
prophecy, declaring that she wa.H
It those who followed her should
About the year 1781, she began a
arts of the cmtnuy, particularly of
id, we are told, about two years
owing year, " having finished the
• to do,' she was taken out of the
the ordinary way of all living, at
day of the ninth month," — in ho-
ince the death of the mother, the
Ijecn under the management of
THC SBlRinS.
251
1 several successive persons, on whom the leading gift in the
I visible administration has descended.
They have derived their name from their peculiar mode
I "irship, which consists in the most violent dancing. At
I c. .itsh, the females are drawn up in ranges on one side, and
Itlie men on the other. Two singers, from each sex, then
I take their stands at the head of their respective columns. A
I signal being given, the singers commence, and the columns
I pet into motion. They gently advance and recede for some
I minutes, when, on a sudden, they reverse fronts, quicken
I tiieir motions, and dance in a familiar manner; suddenly tliey
I wheel to their foi-mer positions increasing in the violence ot
I their actions, as they become warmer' by the spirit and ani-
j mated by the singing. By one impulse they now break the
I onler in'which they stand, and, each column whirling withm
I its own limits, they throw their heads, hsnds and legs, in wild
I disorder, occasionally leaping up, and uttering a loiid en-.
I During this time, each individual has chimed m with the
I singers, who have themselves fallen into their columns, and
I are all singing with stunning noise ; till, by their violence,
land by the incessant fuiy of their dancing, the worshippers
|»re exhausted. Some sink on the floor, whilst others are
I scai-cely able to gfet to their seats. There is not, however, the
I same violence at all times; on some days the scene is con-
Isidcwbly less animated, and of course much more agreeable
I to a visitor. ,
The principal tc.iet of the religion of these people is a total
I non-intercourse between the sexes : consequently, husband
I and wife are cUsuiiitcd as soon as they enter into the society.
I All their domestic arrangements arc made with a rigid re-
I gard to this object, l-lach family house is divided into small
I rooms, large enough for two beds, and each has a wardrobe
I attached to it. There is one kitchen and tlining room, com-
I iiion to the house; the latter has two doors on one side, lead-
I ing from the common passage. The house is divided in eve-
I ry story, by a wide entry ; one side of the house, through
I each story, is occupied by the females, the opposite by the
I males ; there are also two pair of stjurs, leading to the apart-
Iments on opposite sides or the house ; and the whole is neat-
I ly finished. The tenants of each live as one family ; the wo-
I men cook, wash, make and mend. The men attend to all the
I farmmg, mechanical and ouMoor labour. Unless on sonw do-
2$^ TH« OTAKKm.
mertic nccewiity, the niulen and fV niaU-» are never uccn in tl.c
oppoiite »i«[. A youth of one of the Bhaker settlements, ofi
cheerful, happy spirit, was once asked whether he had his
liberty, and could do as he pleast-d. 'Certainly,' said the]
youth, (repealing, doubtless, \.'»at all are taught to believe,)
we do whatsoever we have a gift to! On being asked, there.
fore, what he would tlo, if he wanted on a fine w inter's morn-
ing to go down ami skate on the pond, he replied, ' I sliould
ten tlie elder, that I had a gift to go down and skate.* Being
further asked, w hether the elder would permit him j he »ti- 1
swered, • certainly, unless he hud a gift that 1 should not go.'
But if you still told the eklcr that you had a gift to go down
and skate, and you niu.st ? • Why, then the ekler would tell
me that I had a lying gift, and that he ha
once asked whether he had his
ic pleastd. 'Certainly,' said the
i», \. hat all are taught to believe,) |
a git\ to! On being asked, then;.
Hi wanted on a fine winter's morn-
.. the pond, he replied, ' I sliotild
ipft to go down and skate.' Being
; elder would permit him « he »n-
he hud a gift that I should not go.'
Icr tltat you had a gift to go down
« Why, then the ekier would tell
and that he had a gift to beat me,
ork directly.'
Lebanon, the road leads up tlw
itain, which forms the first ridge
•nt which run in a coui-se of north I
1 the lakes of Canada, to the Sound
:: road itself is a fine turnpike, sur-
ti-ees, and abounding in delightful
KC have left, and the distant hili»
whole ascent is more or less culti- 1
ing a fine limestone.
I, we have a ride over a hi|h coun-
'or three miles, until we begin to
f the rljge, into the beautifuTplui)
; is however moderate, and by no
:nt, this pktin appearing to be con-
it > f Lebanon. About two miles
PtTT!«riELI) — OHSC!! MOCKTAlilS.
25:.
iiiiiii; iM into the village, which is a very beautiful one, and
i liiis the general cliaracter of the New-England towns, among
wliicli we liave now entered. The road, everywhere broad,
perhaps sixty to one huntlred feet, in passing tlirough the vil-
hge-i is widened to two or three hundred feet, often more; this
generally composes a fine green area or s(iuare, over which
tlie track of the road is carried, and the houses extend on
each aide, usually white frame houses, with a distance be-
tween each I the houses are always neat, and often eleg[ant,_
us the cheapness of timber in this country, and the habit of
working, admits of giving them much architectural beauty
at a small expense. Not only the houses therefore, but the
barns, stables and offices, are often quite pretty, and min-
I (cltd as they gfenendly are with a few trees, they give to these
UiUages a singularly pleasing appearance. A handsome
I church and school-house are tne appendages of them all, and
ihe first have invariably fine spires, which mark the approach
I to tiiem from a distance, and are exceedingly pretty.
Fitti field, seated on the shore of the Housatonic, is K
V try pleasant, handsome and Hourishing town, and has con-
I slderable trade and manufiictures. It contains three houses
lor public worship, two for Congreffationalists, and one for
McthotlistSi a bank, a town house, a female academy, a print-
inj-office, from which is issued a weekly newspaper, and
several prosperous manufactories. I^rge numbers ot chaises,
coaches, and wagons are made here. Good marble is found
In tliis and several of tlie neighbouring townships. The Uni-
I ted S tates have barracks here, sufficient to accommodate two
iliuusand men, and an hospital.
After passing the plain of Pitt.sficld, which is about three
miles in extent, we begin to ascend a ridge of hills; the coun-
I iiy loses ill a great degree its neat appearance, and the soil
is not so fertile, the limestone having changed to rough gra-
nite or moor stone : the cultivation is not good, and the
kouses are less neat, being chiefly without paint, which
(fives a dreary appeaituice to wooden building^. In this dis-
trict, very little corn is raised, but, abou.iding in grass, vast
quantities of cattle are bred and sent to New-York and Phi-
ladelphia, where they are sold and fattened.
We are now properly among the Green IVooda at Mr^tn-
tains, the general name given to the whole extent of tltis
ridge ; a name no doubt derived from its appearance ; as we
Y
;.^^',i«f*:;E-'^.
■J5i amiif »ioc!«TAi!i»— fiirnTKBruiti— Ki)«Tn*iirr(.N
c»n dinci-rn it from 'hi- i-miiuncis we crow, cxtendiiiK li
ami wide, a nulc in.cmuiiK'"'l ^^'•'■.f of hill*, cluntered aiic
interlocking- In ■♦her, with llu' wo'■ uniMincr more dinrrTniblc, from tk»
low in - teiy whore panii, bciiirf almort bum* up/
while aniKi „ tiitee hilU, the vcKftutioii liiw the appeftr»nc<|
of being reircshcd by pef actual showtw. No doiibt, howl
ever, much of their gtccn hue \» derived from the ml
numbers of lir, hemloclk, elm and other evergreen*, whicW
form a great part of their timber s but even these havcil
far fresher appearance than in the valcii below. As we pi»l
through the forest, the road ai\d all around us is a thickl
and almost impenetrable »rc.h of foliage, formed by trecial
the finest size that the forest can aflbrtl, and «o close aJ
often to give a dampness to the air. The principal tmiher iJ
the mountain fir, the hemlock, the spruce, chesnut, bcecliJ
and ouks of variouH kinds i and the underwood or »""'"» «•" I
laurel, shumuc, and a variciy too great to explain i the htir.l
lock is a beautiful tree , the lengthened slender ranuficatiosi
or extension of its brancli.-s, gives to the scenery all thil
wildness which is so remarkable in the pictures of 8alv»tc
Descending the Green Mountains, we reach the village ttl
Chetterfeld, on llioir lusttrn ridge, twenty-six miles froir.!
Pittsfield. The channel of the river Jugawam, yinicU nml
a short tlistance from it, may be regarded as a curiosity. I)ut I
ing a long sutcension of agcp, it nas been worn down m>|
solid boc appcftTMCi
r ictual showtrs. No doubt, howl
tn hue is derived from the vw
elm uiul other evergreen*, whitll
ir timber; liut even these hsivcil
II ill the valcii below. As we pisil
loud niul ull around us is a thickl
urch of foliairw, formed by trecial
t'orent can afToKl, and »o close ».[
to the nir. The principal timber i>|
nlock, the spruce, chesnut, bceclil
( and the underwood or slmibs ar.l
cly too p-eat to explain i the htii I
he lenffthencd slender ramificatioil
\\r», gives to the scenery all thtl
larkable in the pictures ot 8alv»tci
Mountains, we reach the village h
stern ridge, twenty-six miles froir.
of the river Jugawam, which nm
iiuy be remirded as a curiosity. Hut
H^Lf, it na» been worn down iin|
eliasin is on both sides nearly pei
from six to thirty feet in diflcreni
like a vast trench, dug by human
loniewhat winding, but approachc
,c, lliat it may be traced from tht|
' diHtance.
'Ill/ of the Connecticut, and in twelve
;i,' on iU shore. This is tjie lareec
setts, and in;iy contain four hundreJ
le number of them are ordinary,
t a small proportion arc handsoDir
altered in the diftkrcnt stieets, as ''
sion on the eve tJian even inftrii
'>IOnTllAMPTOJ(--IIAfiI.r.T. Mf
luiMinRs in many otlu-r pl;.c.•^ whcrr they are prMcntfd at
■ :i «inirlc view. None of tlic piihlic building* are handsome.
ItIk- Htor.M and shops built on the si.le of an irregular Hmiare
I in the centre, givo the trnveller a lively impression of the
|lmMntMwhichi»hiTe.;irric'don. .. ,.
I Ihere is no part of New-Kngland more distinguished tor
I the f xccllence of it« habits niui principles than this ; a gene
I ral love of or-lcr prevails ; a general siibniission to th(| law*
Vmd magistrates 1 a general regularity of life, a general har-
niony and good nrighbourhoodi a sober indiiHtiy and frugal-
itv i a general hospitality and charity. W hem vt r a person
I has had the misfortune to have his house or Imni luirned, it
I may be considered as having been a stinding cuHtom in tint
I nciirhboiirhood, for the inhabitants to raise, and in most in-
litanccs to ttnish, a new house or bam for him. 'I'his cimtom
I still substantially prevails, and exists extensively in other
1 parts of New-Englaml.*
Several men have lived here, who were persons of much
I ilistinction. The Uev. Solomon Sto» thirty years. Here
he was regarded with a reverence which will soiircely be
rendered to anv other man. The very sio'^iges are said to
have felt towards him a pccviliw awe. One-, when he was
riding from Northampton to Hatfield, uiid iji-.s-sing a place
oaUed Dewey's Hole, an ambush of savaK"-^ bned tl,.: road.
It is said that a Kreiifhnian, dir.'cling \w gun lowanls lum,
wail 'varned bv one of the lu.liaiu, wlio soar- time before
had been among tlie F.nglish, not to lire, b.inause "that
m.iii was Knglinhman's (iod." A simihir adventure is said
to have befallen him, while m>.'dit:.ting, m an orchard imme-
I Jiatelv behind the church in Deerlield, a sermon whicli he
was about to preach. .... ^ u j
Crossinir the Connecticut, a short ride brings ua to Hmt-
Im. The river, immediately above the town, leaving its
' L'encral counie, turn* nortli-west, then, after winding to the
South again, turns directly cast , and thus, having wandered
five .iiUes, encloses, except on the east, a beautiful 'nteryal,
conUinhig between two and three thousand acres. On the
irthmus of this peninsula Ues the principal street, the hand-
• Dwif^lit'i Travels, I. 295.
:2oG
H4DL£y — laoiAir imvasiom.
snnest bv nature in New-Kn^land. It is a mile lit lengtli,
running directly north and south; is sixteen rods in breadth;]
i« nearly a perfect level ; is covered, durinjp the fine season, I
with rich verdure ; extends at either end to tlie river, and I
presents eveiywhere a delig'htful prospect. The modem I
houses on this street are ^nerally good : a considerable I
number however ai-e ancient, and, having been better built I
than a g^at part of those, which were erected throughout I
New-England in early periods, have been prudently pre-
served.
In this town resided, for fifteen or sixteen years, the celc- 1
brated regicides, Goffe and VVhalley. They came hither in [
the year 1654, and lived in the hotise of the Kev. Mr. Russel, I
khe minister. Whalley died in his house. After his decease, I
Oofle quitted Hadley, went into Connecticut, and afterwards, I
acc&unt Holyoke, on the southern side of this town-
I ship, at the distance of three miles from the church, is seen
I the richest prospect in New-England, and not improbably in
(the United States. The mountain is about one thousand one
1 hundred feet above the surface of the river. From this spot,
I the eye is presented with a vast expansion to the south,
I comprehending the southern part of the county of Hamp-
I shire and a portion of the state of Connecticut. The Middle-
Itowii Mountains, the Blue Mountains at .Southington, both
I at the disUnce of sixty miles, and the whole extent of the
I Connecticut valley to Middletown, together with the long
I ranges by which it is bordered, appear m full view. To the
I south-west. Mount Tom, a narrow range running in a direct
1 line with Mount Holyoke, with its various summits, intercepts
tlie prospect, and furnishes a fine substitute for more dis' ant
I objects. But the most exquisite scenery of the whole la id-
1 scape is formed bv the river, and its extended margm. It
turns four times to the east and three times to the west, witli-
iu twelve miles, and in tliat distance its course is twenty-four.
It is generally a quarter of a mile wide i and its banks ai-e beau-
tifuUy alternated, with a fringe of shrul-s, green lawns, and
lofty trees. When the eye traces this majestic stream, mean-
denng with a single coui-se through these dehghtful fields,
wandering in one plftce five miles to gain one, and in another
four to gain seventy yards; enclosing, almost immediately be-
neath, an island of twenty acres, exquisite in its form and ver-
dure, and adorned on the northern end with a beautiiul grove;
when it marks the sprightly towns which rise upon its bunks,
and the numerous churches which gem the whole landscape
i in ite neighbourhood ; when it explores th? lotly forests,
wildly contrasted with the rich scene of cultivation ; when
it ascends higher, and observes the perpetually varying and
i2
25 tt
BEOOKFIELD— WORrK«T£II.
undulating arches of the hills, and the Green Mountains ic-.
ceding northward beyond the reach of the eye 5 when, luii
of all, it rests upon the Monadnoc in the north-east, and in
the north-west upon Saddle Mountain, each ascending, at
the distance of fifty miles, in dim and misty grandeur, fat
above all the other objects in view: it will be difficult not to
say, that all that is giimd or beautiful in landscape is spread
before us. .
From Hadley, the road leads us through Bekhertoum and
Ware, twenty-scven miles, to Brookfield. The countiy, after
leaving the Connecticut valley, is not very fertile, and the
houses in general are not very neat or large; as we approach
Brookfield, however, we descend into a more agreeable dis-
trict. The road passes on tlirough Spencer and Leimler,
nineteen miles, to Worcester, over an undulating country, and
is of course very uneven, though it is well made. Almost all |
the hills in the southern half of New-England run from noith
to south i the roads, therefore, which have an eastern and
western direction, are very far from being level. From seve-
ral of these lulls, there are extensive though not any vei^
pleasant views : beauty of prospect demands not only ampli-
tude, but variety. A continued succession of hills and val-
leys, scarcely distinguishable from each other in appearance,
though less wearisome tlian the u-.-.ifnrmity of a spacious
plain, is still remote from that exquisite scenery which con-
stitutes the fine landscape— the eye instinctively demands
something more.
Around iVofcegter, the surface of the countiy is handsome;
the hills slope moi-e gradually, and are moulded into a great-
er variety and beauty of form ; the valleys, too, are more
open, extended and elegant, than in tiie preceding pai-ts of
tliia county. The soil also appears to bi; richer, and better
fiitted for a variety of vegetation. The forest growth of this
and all the preceding townsliips, is oak,chesnut, hickoi-y, &c.
interspersed with white and yellow pine. The town is prin-
cipally buUt on a angle street, extending from east to west,
about a mile and a half on the road. U is situated in a valleys
and contains aoout one hundred and fifty houses, generally
well built, sun-canded by neat fences, out-houses and gar-
dens! frequently handsome, and very rarely small, old or
• irepaired. Few towns in New-England exhibit so uniform
an appearance of neatness and taste, or contain so great a
be
D— WORtK«T£n.
Is, and the Green Mountains re-
he reach of the eye 5 when, lasi
ladnoc in the north-east, and in
e Mountain, each ascending, at
m dim and misty jjrandeur, fat
n view: it will be difficult not to
beautiful in landscape is spread
;ads us through Bekhertown and
to Broolcfield. The country, after
lley, is not very fertile, and the
;ry neat or large; as we approach
:scend into a more agreeable dis-
1 tlirough Spencer and Leicester,
r, over an undulating country, and
lough it is well made. Almost all
r of New-England run from noith
)ve, which have an eastern and
far from being level. From seve-
! extensive though not any vei'y |
)rospect demands not only ampli-
nued succession of hills and val-
le from each other in appearance,
sin the u'.-.iformity of a spacious
hat exquisite scenery which con- 1
— ^the eye instinctively demands
irface of the countiy is handsome;
lly, and are moulded into a great-
'orm ; the valleys, too, are more
it, than in tiie preceding pai-ts of
appears to hi; richer, and better
tation. The forest growth of this
ships, is oalc,chesnut, hickoi-y, &c.
d yellow pine. The town is prin-
eet, extending from east to west, |
the road. It is situated in a valleys
mdred and fifty houses, generally
neat fences, out-houses tind gar-
e, and very rarely small, old or
I New-England exhibit so uniform
J and taste, or contain so great a
CAMBniDOE — HAnrinn totnat.
259
I proportion of good buildings, as AVorcester. There is pro-
bably more wealth in it than in any other which does not
exceed it in dimensions and population. Its trade, consider-
ing its inland position, is extensive and profitable. The
number of pubuc officers, professional men, merchants and
mechanics, is proportionably great, and produces a very Ifve-
ly appearance of s. ;tivity and business.
From Worcester, passing over a fine grazing country, six
miles bring us to Skrewibury. We pass on the 1 oad a beau-
tifiil lake, called Quituigammd { about one acre of which is
comprised within the bounds of Worcester, and the remain-
I der m those of Shrewsburj'. This lake is about four miles
long, and from one hundred rods to a mile broad, and is the
largest and handsomest piece of water seen fVom tlie great
roiid in this county. Its form is a crescent. From the high
ground near Shrewsbuiy, it furnishes a fine feature of the
I landscape, and exhibits to the eye the appearance of a noble
section of a majestic river.
From Shrewsbury, the road leads us in fifteen nules to
Framingham, through a country very similar to that wo have
i already passed. The soil is rich grazing land, of the first
! quality, rewarding abundantly the toil of the owners, and
presenting to the eye of the traveller a continued succession
of the deepest verdure. Great numbers of cattle, of the
largest size and best quality, are fed on these rich pastures ;
and the large well-buih bams, and good farmers' houaes, are
decisive indications of prosperity.
The next stage, from Framingham to Watertown, is through
a country more hilly and rough, with a road often stony, and
i the culture generally grass ; but the buildings are neat, and
bear the marks of approach to a large city, by the superior-
ity of the houses, wnich now change fi:om mere farm houses
to country-seats.
From Watertown, three miles bring us to Cambridge, a
town formerly noted for nothing but the University, and the
villas of the gentlemen of Boston ; now, however, it has
become a place of considerable business, and has a large
population exclusive of that institution.
Harvard College, the firet erected in British America, was
begun in the year 1636, by an apr.opriation of four hundred
pounds sterling, made for the purpose by the ge.ietal court
of the colony. In 1638, the Reverend John Ilarrard, of
> ;*^&*fe3?vT-
260
BiBVAED COLUOE.
Charlestown, gave to it one-half of hi» property, amount,
ine to seven hundred and seventy-nine pounds, seventeen
shillings, and t-yo pence sterling. F'"'" «»« ™«' '^ 'l''*"!^
its first name of a pubUc school to that of a coUege. In 1650.
the first charter was granted by the general court, which
constituted a corporation. consisUng of the P^s'^f "*• ««
feUciWB, and the treasurer, by the title of president .nd fel- 1
lows of Harvard College. Beside other important powcN,
this body has the superintendence of aU the collegiate pre
nertv. The executive officers are, the president, protessow,
tutora, and librarian. The professorships of divinity, and of
mathematics and natural philosophy, were fo^nd^^ Jjy Mr.
Thomas HoUis, a merchant of London ; the former in 17^^
the latter in 1726. The professorship of Hebrew, and other
oriental Unffuages, was founded by Mr. Thomas Hancock,
an eminent^rchant of Boston, in 1765. The professor
read lectures to all the students assembled, and give pri-
vats instruction to the respective classes. Medical lectum
are also read here by professors, Jvho are respec able phy-
Lvians resident in the vicinity. ^Partial foundations have
been laid for professorships of anatomy and surgery, and tor
a professorship of the theory and practice of physic, by the
late Dr. Ezekiel Hersey, his relict, Mrs. Sarah Hersey, and
his brother, Mr. Abner Hersey, of Barnstoble , and a profts.
sorshlp of chymistry and materia medica, by the late Majo
William Erving. These professorships are called by the
names of the respective founders. As xhe funds are insuft.
cient to support the lectures, the students who attend them
are taxed m moderate sums. . „ „ „ vc « „f I
The buildings consist of University Hall, a fine edihce ot
granite, one hundred and forty feet by fifty, and forty-two m
heiKht, contsuning a chapel, six lecture-rooms, roie8sorship of Hebrew, and other
bunded by Mr. Thomas Hancock,
Boston, in 1765. The professors
students assembled, and give pri-
ipective classes. Medical lectures
ofessors, Jvho are respectable phy.
icinity. Partial foundations have
ips of anatomy and surgeiy, and for
;ory and practice of physic, by the
his relict, Mrs. Sarah Hersey, and
ersey, of Barnstable ; and a profes-
materia medica, by the late Major
professorships are called by the
founders. As che funds are insufti-
ires, the students who attend them
af University Hall, a fine edihce ot
I forty feet by fifty, and forty-two in
pel, six lecture-rooms, dining-halls,
ick edifice, one hundred and eight
the libi-ary, philosophical apparatus,
et ; four other brick edifices, called
;oughton, and Holwoi-thy Halls, each
jng rooms for the accommodation of
;1, containing the anatomical muse-
and lecture-rooms? and three college
d by students. The library is one of
I States, and contwns about twenty-
The philosophical apparatus also
HARVARD GOILIOE— BOSTON.
261
probably not surpassed by any in the country. The chy-
Imical laboratory, anatomical museum, and cabinet of mine-
rals, are all valuable. The botanic garden comprises st ven
I acres, laid out in an ornamental style, and is furnished with
Ian interesting collection of trees, shrubs and plants, both
Inative and foreign. .
I The first printing-office in New-England was set up m this
I town, at the expense of the Rev. Joseph Glover, a clergy-
Iman who died on his passage to America. A Mr. Day was
Ithe first poss«!8Sor of the press. The first thing printed in
iNew-England was the Freeman's Oath; the second, Pearce's
iNcw-England Almanac; the third, the New-England Version
lof the Psalms. ■ «r _i
I From Cambridge, a ride of three mues, and crossmg west
hoston Bridge, brings us to the city.
'■jgftmww^*'**"''
J62 LIHir— SAHANT.
EXCURSION TO NAHANT.
Or late years, Nahant has become a bathing place of great
fasluon; ana a traveller should not leave Boston without visit.
ing it. 1
The road to it passes through Ckarkstotm, and in six miles I
reaches the village of Chelsea. From that place to Lynn, we [
pass for seven miles over a very noble road, made in a direct I
course from Boston, in the most firm and solid manner, the I
hills being cut through, and a causeway carried over larK |
bodies of marshy ground, which indeed compose the chietl
part of the distance. I
The town of Lynn lies principally stretched forsevenll
miles along Lynn bay, exhibiting a village of small farms,!
Each house has near it a small shop, which is detached, and!
about ten or twelve feet square: these are occupied by shoe- 1
makers, which is the general occuoation of the inhabitants, I
and is carried on to such an extent, that as many as a million I
pairs of shoea, chiefly women's, have been exported hence I
in one year; indeed, the middle and southern states are sup- 1
plied in a great measure from this place. A large proportion!
of the Lynn people are Quakers, who have a large meeting!
house. There are, besides the shoemakin^ business, manul
iactures of I'-atlier, both of the common kind and morocco I
for making shoes. Froru these manufactoiiea, the people of!
Lynn are generally very thriving, and live with great neat- f
'ness and comfort. _ I
Opposite to i,ynn, a naiTOW beach or isthmus, not more I
than one hundred yards wide, extends directly into the sea, I
for two miles, at the end of which is a high rocky island;
and then a second beach, of about one-fourth of a mile, to
another similar island, larger in its dimensions. They are I
called the Great and Less Nahant. The two contain about
six hundred acres of land, a gfreat part of which is high,
barren rock; the rest is a good soil, more or less culti-
vated with Indian corn, but chiefly in grass, affording excel-
lent sheep pasture. The shores of both islands consist ol |
high, rocky promontories, with fine sandy beaches between j
them, and the sea breaks around with a tremendous siul I
' 4-,"'
KADART.
263
f— SABANT.
)N TO NAHANT.
as become a bathing place of great
)uld not leave Boston without visit-
rough Charlestoum, and in six miles I
bea. From that place to Lynn, we I
I very noble road, made in a direct I
e most firm and solid manner, tiie I
uid a causeway carried over lar|e I
which indeed compose the chief I
s principally atretched for several
xhibiting a village of small farms,
small shop, which is detached, and
quare: these are occupied by shoe-
eral occuoation of the inhabitant!,
ui extent, that as many as a milliot
(men's, have been exported hence
middle and southern states are sup-
Tom this place. A large proportion.
Quakers, who have a large meeting-
es the shoemakin^ business, manu-
of the common kind and morocco
these manufactoriea, the people of
thriving, and live with great ncai-
saiTOW beach or isthmus, not more I
wide, extends directly into the sea,
I of which is a high rocky island i
», of about one-fourth of a mile, to
•rger in its dimensions. They are!
18 Nahant. The two contain about
id, a gfreat part of which is high,
s a good soil, more or less culti
)ut chiefly in grass, affording excel-
,e shores of both islands consist of |
s, with fine sandy beaches between
a around with a tremendous .suil
h he ride over the beach, from Lynn to thi '.slands, is one ot
I the most delightful imaginable ; when the tide is out being
I as hard as marble, the surf washing the carriage-wheels and
I feet of the horses, and the sea-breeie at all times blowmg
I with uncommon freshness. The traveller will indeed find
I his ride truly refreshing; and the island itself is one of the
I pleasantest places he has visited, from the fine ait, and no
less beautiful prospect around him, consisting of a vast area
I of bay and ocean, with a number of islands, rocks and pro-
I montories stretching into it. . . •
I On the southern side of the Great Nahant, there is a cun-
I oua grotto or cavern, called the Swallow House; the entrance
I of which is about ten feet wide, five high, and seventy long,
I increasing after a few steps to fourteen feet in breadth and
I ciirhtecn or twenty in height. Great numbers of swaUows
I inhabit this cave, and hatch their young here 5 and it is a
common opirJon, that they repose here through the winter,
iii a torpid state. At the east end, at low tide, in the pools
I among the large rocks, is found the animal flower, or rose
I ii,h, adhering to small stones, in water four or five feet deep.
I Oil the north shore is a chasm, thirty feet m depth, called
the Spouting Horn, into which, at about halt tide, the wate;-
1 nislies with great violence and a tremendous sound.
■i ij> l n i imju i li ii u l ulljl ," lj .wH« i ;»»H II M»HHW> '
264
KOUTB FROM BOSTOH TO >BW-tOBk
BOSTON TO NEW-YORK,
(^hy Steam-Boat. J
BosToir to ^
Roxbury
Cross Neponset River
Dedham 8 10
Walpole 11 21
Foxborough « 23
Attleborough 7 30
Pawtuckct River and Falls .... 8 38
PrOTII)E5CB ■* *2
Trip 2 44
Johnson - - - ° ^"
Cross Patuxent River
Scituate, (R.I.) 7 57
Connecticut State line 7 64
Sterling * ^^
Vlsdnficld 4 72
Jewitt'sCity - - 7 79
Cross Quinnebaug Hiver
(>ross Sketucket lliver 5 84
Norwich 3 87
Quinnebaug River 2 89
Poquetanuck River - • 4 93
Nbw-Loxdom -- 8 101
'I'hames Itiver 4 105
Connecticut River 13 113
Faulkner's Islands 16 134
New-Haven Light-House 13 147
Nbw-Havbw 5 152
Stratford Point 16 168
Opposite Norwalk 15 183
(ireenwich Point H 18*4
Entrance of Long Island Sound - - • 16 210
HellGate - - 9 219
New-York 7 226
OSTON TO MSW-TOBK
TO NEW-YORK,
^team-Boat. J
nOtTB FROM BOBTOJI TO HtV-HATM.
DEVIATIONS.
BosTOR to Nkw-Hateit,
("by Springfield emd Hartford. J
M.
BoiTOir to
Roxbury „
Brookline ^
Needham ^
Natick ^
Framingham '
Southborough *
Shrewsbury ^^
Worcester ^
Leicester '
Spencer ^
Brookfield '
Cros-s Chickapee River
Western °
Palmer ^
East Springfield "
Cross Connecticut River
West Spaisoristn *
Massachusetts State line *
Suffield 'f.
Windsor *"
o'ross Windsor River
IIautfobd ,j!
BerUn ^"
Meriden '
Cross Quinnipiack River
WalUngford |
Nbw-H*vk»
265
M.
2
5
11
16
23
28
38
44
51
56
63
69
76
93
94
99
104
114
121
131
138
143
155
266
I'V»VTK FROJI ironWICH TO siw-Tonic.
NouwicB to N»;w-Yo«if,
fby ltmd.J
M. M.
Norwich to
New-LoiiJoii , **
Itivcrlvead ' 21
Lyme 9 30
Cross <.)nut,rticiit Itiver 2 3^
Suybniok 2 34
KiUiagwottlt 9 *^
Hammohagsett lUvcr 3 4"
Giiildtbrd 6 52
Biaiulford 8 60
Nkw-Havkx 7 67
Millord 10 77
Cross Housatonic Kiver
SU-atlord * °\
HridKeport * 85
Fairfield * 89
Sugatucic 5 94
Norwalk 3 97
Stamford ^ * ,
Greenwich 5 111
Cross IJyram River, and enter State of New-
York
Bye 5 116
New-Uochelle 8 124
Cross llronx Creek
West Farms 7 131
Cross Haerletn Creek
llaerlem * ^H
Nkw-Yobk 8 143
I'noM
accordii
sue his
Albany,
Northar
Connec
route to
to New
Thame!
an intei
Boston,
ford. ;
but pel
md vai
Leav
the mai
we hav
side, in
two mi
like th(
The
in the I
in rock
cum ai
ubundi
tliey ai
compo
beddei
called
hilly, s
mingU
have f
its har
Cro
from I
elever
tiiehc
CB TO yt\t-jonK-
HOXBUHT— DBOniM.
m
NtW-YoRK,
nd.J
M. M.
i-le
7 21
9 30
2 32
2 34
9 43
3 46
6 52
8 60
7 67
10 77
4 81
4 85
4 89
5 94
3 97
9 106
5 111
inter State of New-
5 116
8 124
7 131
i- . . - . 4 135
8 143
From DoiiTOH to Nsw-YonK.
1 noM Hoston to New-York, variow* routes iriay be chosen,
according to the taste of the traveller. He may either pur-
sue his journey aloiiff the road wliich we liave passed from
Albany, through the centre of the state of Massachusetts, to
Northampton, and thence follow the beautiful valley of the
Connecticut river to New-Haven. He may take the regular
route to Providence, and thence either go all the way by water
to New-York, or continue as far as Norwich, on the river
Thames, and then join the steam-boat line. Or he may select
an intermediate road, taking a south-western direction from
Boston, and pass through the middle of Connecticut, to Hart-
ford. Either of these routes will afford a beautiful journey ;
but perhaps tliat by Norwich unites the greatest expedition
■uid variety. * •* *
Leaving Boston, we pass the neck which connects it to
the main land \ this neck has bden originally, nearly such as
we have described Nahaiit, only that it has flat bays on each
side, instead of the ocean. At the end of the neck, about
two miles from the centre of Bostoiij is the town of Roxbury,
lilic the rest in the country, built of neat white houses.
The country soon assumes the character almost universal
in the state of Massachusetts, of a hard stony soil, !iI>oundin§f
in rocks, and yielding little but grass, pasturag. Indian
corn and rye, but scarcely any wheat. The ue very
abundant, but assume raUier a different charucv. ..as here
tlicy are in large round lumps or masses, not stratified, but
composed altogether of every species and size of pebbles,
bedded in a hard compact stone, forming what is generally
called pudding stone. All this country being broken and
iiilly, abounding with wood and pasturage, is thickly inter-
mingled with toe villas of the Boston gentry, some of which
have fine views over the country below, extending to Boston,
its harbour, islands, and a considerable expanse of sea.
Crossing the Ntponset river, we enter Ikdham, ten miles
from Boston. It is a neat town, situated pleasantly on a plain,
eleven miles south-west of tlie capital. It is compactly built,
tlie houses are generally good, and several of them are hanU-
>ai
court-! jc and a jail. lU aspect ia ftat of »pri(jhtlinc»» and
prosperity. Several productive interval*, fomting the marpn
of the river, add not a little to iu beauty. In Uedham lived
Fither Ainea, several yean a member of tlie American Con.
greM. This {gentleman wa» bom here, April 9th 1758, of r«.
tpectable parents, and was educated at Harvard College, ( t
wher« he took the degree of A. B. in 1774. He then com.
menced the study of the law, and soon after he began the
practice was regarded as an advocate of distinguished talenti.
In 1787, he was chosen a delegate to the convention, sum-
moned for the purpose of ratifying the federal :onstitution,
•nd a member of the house of representatives in the sUte
legislature the same year. The following year ho waa elect-
ed a repreaentative from the district of Sunblk, to the nation-
al legislature, and waa regularly re-elected during the pre*,
dency of General Washington. In all these situations, ,;) .''•
cularlv the last, he distinguished himself by jMund witni >'i
most impreaaive eloquence, immovable intepity, and exa.; .
patriotism. After lus speech on the necessity of making »p
propriations for carrying into effect the treaty with Grettm a
Britain, delivered April 28th, 1796, oneof hisantagoni»taob-« ^
jected to taking the vote which was to decide the question,^ ■
at that time, becauae the house was borne away by the power I
of hia eloquence. His moral cliaracter waa still more estims- 1
ble. His integrity appeared to be direct, without effort, and I
even without deliberationi it seemed to b» siy exact, but I
delicate and exquisite. His patriotism was glowing. •
From Dedham to kVaipok, the country is chiefly a I :!.«»t,
dull in its appearance and in some places rough and stotn
The soil is poor, and the road indiffer :i>t. There is noUriw;-
particulai'ly worthy of notice, in the cxitntry ovf.r which v.- j
now pass ; the villages of Foxborau^h and MlU'x/rough havs I
nothing to distinguisli them, and in eight miles from tlie latter I
we reach Paivtmket, a celebrated manufacUu-ing village. It it I
well built, and wears a flourishing aspect The river is a I
hrge mill-stream, and just Imlow becomes navigable for hotta. I
Directly under the brid,fc commences a ronnantic foil, which, I
»l I
I— rAWTOGKKT.
"the county i)f Norfolk, »nd con
ree Con|rrc(f»tioniil church*-?!, a I
Bpect is Uiat of uprif^htlincgN and I
ve interval*, forming the marpnl
to ito brauty. In Uedham lived I
I member of tlie American Con- 1
bom here, April 9th 1758, of re-
educated at Harvard College, I
; A. B. in 1774. He then com- 1
w, and aoon after he began the I
tdvocate of diitinguiihed tidenti/
elegate to Uie convention, lum-
atifying the federal :anititiition,|
e of representatives in the state I
rhe following year he was elect- 1
district of Suifolk, to the nation- 1
arly re-elected during the preii-l
jn. In all these situations, ir-''-l
ished himself by w)und wiwi "i
immovable intepity, and exa.;
h on the necessity of making »p
tto effect the treaty with Greitj
1, 1796, one of his antagonists ob- 1
liich was to decide the question, I
use was bt me away by the power I
1 clutfacter waa still more estimS'l
1 to be direct, without effort, and I
it seemed to ht 8I« sense of I
personal, was not o I'y exact, but \
9 patriotism was glowing. I
fe, the country is chiefly a Ibrf-t,
in some places rough and »tp.
ofti
:at
on 1
.b-
glei
•n,
Uk
er
hou
la-
a p
id
boa
>e
inci
se
how
of
injf
ut
mei
imr
*,
1
y-
bui
>g
anc
it
tyl
ve
fee
et
ing
.is
Ai
la
wi1
ts.
stu
A,
th(
. a
nd
;in
ed
)n-
fe-
^
he
ts.
n-
m,
te
:t-
n-
si"
■ti-
^
ed
.p.
:at
•b-
in,
er
la-
id
se
se
of
ut
It,
y-
«
re
ire
et
.is
I a
ts.
A,
PHOVIOEJJCE— BHOWH rJIIVEBSITt. 2o»
extending obliquely down the river, furnishes a number of
cicellent mill-seats. Of this advantage the mhab.tants have
avaUed themselves. There is probably no spot in New-Eng-
land, of the same extent, in wliich the same quantity or va-
riety of manufacturing business is carried on. 1 he whole de-
scent of the river is said to be fifty feet. The pnncipal f^ is
»bout thirty. The mass of rocks by which it is produced, is
thrown together in the wildest contusion.
The road from Pawtucket to Providence, four miles, is
bad. being a deep sand, very heavy, and often stony.
Providence is buUt on the western side of Pawtucket nvcr,
in two divisions; one on the eastern and the other on the
western wde of a cove, which is an arm ot that nyer. The
site of the western division is a slope, gradually rwmg trwn
the cove ; that of the eastern, the naiTow base and the side
of a lofty hiU, which runs between the cove and the nver to
the point of their junction. The two principal sheets, on the
eastern side, pass, one at the bottom, and the other at a litUe
distance, along the side of this hill, until they termmate at
the river. The principal street on die wef^rn side is a part
of the great road towards New-London and Harttord. i nose
on the east are crossed by several others nearly at nght an-
gles. In point of population, it is tlie first town in Rhode-
Island, and the third m New-England. It contains a court-
house, a jail, a market-house, a custom-house, a universit;^,
a public hbrary, of about two thousand volumes, a Fnend 8
boarding-school, an academy, five public schools, seven banks,
including a branch of the United SUtes bank, and twelve
houses for public worship; and several oUier public build-
inra. Two of the Congregational, and one of the Baptist
meeting houses, and the Episcopal chureli, are among the
handsomest edifices of the kind in the United States.
The College stands on tlie summit of the hiU: and is a bncK
building of four stories, one hundred and fifty feet in length,
and fortv-six in breadth. A projection in the centre, of twen-
ty feet on each side, enlarges tiie breadtii here to eighty^ix
feet, and contains the pubUc rooms. The rest of the build-
ing consists of rooms and studies deMgned for the students.
A second edifice, of nearly the same size, has been erected
within a few years, to accommodate an additional number oi
students. They overlook every part of the town; the cove,
the river, and the country bejond it on both sides ; together
z2
yro
8TIBLIII0 — PtAISFIBin.
1^^
• ^ r^!f.,!rfi2elt8 lesal name is now Broiwi WMWS-wiy:
^en U m ^oSS^ o/SicharBrown esquire, who h« been
^, most libeml benefactor. This seminary possesses a bbmy
of £t Sthousand volumes, a philosoph ical appara^
and a museum containing a number of natural and arUficml
curiosities. Both its internal and external concerns are con-
"'Sd^nrwCe^^edin the year 1636. ltw»|..P«^
ed by Roger Williams, and by him and '>^''^f/}^!^V^
tKl<«ta^onwasbegun. In 1640 they adoptedafomofg^
''"FromProvidence. a fourney of twenty miles bring, us to
%^r^?s wiihin the Connecticut line b SterUng, ^ ne»t
IWti ^e Son a hill, trom which there is a plea«i>g
S%S^- r*pe<'* r\ '''' rt SitS: S
baug, one of the most fertile and beautiful tracte in «cw
^Tc^'iniles farther bring us to ^-^.^^^ I
extending along one street JJjXciX a ^^S ^^
and in seven miles reaches J«««'»l'»»».. a 'r|~I, «,««. '
few bmL on the eastern bank of the ft«»w»«»«^'T
W ^^eam. we pass for three miles to the ShdudtttJt-
Z SSiS^'e'to^p of Lisbon. wWch b« e«dg
ot4 ; the SOU being here, as in most of ^^e re«on ttfQ^
^^K^nir the led^ loam, before mentioned, but lefc mr
ed^S d^y SSuS?it is suited, to eve^ P"^^- ^
tife cUmate fbut it i. «dd. for «.me tune past, to hate been
lets favourable to wheat than fonneny.
O
shin
wbit
Ore
d.ffi
«ho
Htdi
vatc
-PUIHFIELO.
north and east. The piwpeci
lired by the sterilitjr of the so'il
is not a little deficient in fine
name is now Brmon Univeniiy!
s Brown esquire, who has been
'his seminary possesses a Bbrary
imes, a philosophical apparatus,
number of natural and artificial
and external concerns are con-
the year 1636. It was pu«hM-
l>y him and several of his friends
1 1640 they adopted a form of go-
the number of men, able to hew
d- They lived in peace with the
(vith the Narrhagansetts, in 1676,
I the town, and burnt about thirty
18 to have been the only instanc*
flered materially from Indian in-
•ney of twenty miles brinjys us to ]
States of Khode-Island and Con-
iccession of hills and vallevs, nm-
e hills are of considerable heigM,
lleys are also, with a multitude of
onnecticut line is Sterling, a nest
II, from which there is a pleasing
,er the rich valley of the Qmwwk- '
rtile and beautiful tiacU in New-
K us to Plmnfitli, a neat vUlag*,
t! The road U»en turns southwMd
es Jtwite$ CUy, a wrflection of »
bank of the Cliunnebaug. Crotj-
or three mUes to the ShtludMiA-
J of Lisbon, wWch is an exceUent
.as in most of the re«m of Qum-
i, before mentioned, but lesn no-
it is suited to every production ot
, for some time part, to hate been
ban formerly.
MORWICH— MOHSftAN IMBIAHS.
271
Our journey now lies along the eastern border of Ujis town-
dii,. Here it presents a succession of hills and valleys, on
which are intersVersed fine groves of tall »nd beautrf^ trees.
Sre of these eih^ences, ^^^BundvmU,,»^cieMy
dfficult to make a humane traveller feel for hi* horses. The
*hole region between Plainfield and Norwich, except the
Bttle village mentioned above, is a coUection of farms, culU-
vated by inhabitants generally in easy circumstances. Crow-
h« tiie Shetucket. the road leads us through a country uifc-
nor both in fertility and beauty to that on kU northern shore,
three miles to Norwich. , .u - _
Na^lh is at the head of the navigation on the nver
Tlumea, and has a population of three thousand, l^cm^ «
t1,?2rp5rt8,Chelsek Landing. theTown and Bean
sea Landing b situated on the point of land between tiie She-
^keT^ndYantic which here unite to form, the Thamw.
The site is on the declivity of a h U, high, nrej^r, and
rocky It contains upwards of one hundred and % dweU-
inir houses, four houses of pubUc worship, a post^ffice, and
upwards of thirty stores. The Town, two n"l«» "-^'"T^*'
isMtuSted in a pleasant vale, partiaUy surrounded by lofty
Wlls. It contains a handsome square, a court-house, a port-
office, meeting house, and about two hundred hous^
stores. Bean Hill is a pleasant settiement, on the Hartford
itiad, in the western part, chiefly in one street.
Norwich is a pleasint town, and has considerable trade and
manufactures. It is favourably situated at the head of naviffa-
™rand has an extensive lick country. The commercial
buriness is much less than it formerly was, •bout twdve ves-
»ds are owned here, employed chiefly in tlie coasUng t»de to
IJrw^oTrd elsewhe^. The falls of the riv« a Jord se.t3
for various mills and manufactunng estabUshments- The
courts for the county are held alternately at tiua city and
^Tt nS^Si, we embark in the steam-boat, and sail down
the Thames fourteen inUes to New-London. On the western
bsnk. in the township of dhntville, is the reservation of the
Mahegm MHant, of whom a small remnant is yet left. Thev
ieThTdMcendanU of those tribes who formerly owed al-
legiance to the celebrated chief Uncas. The -POt where
thu chieftwn Uved i> yet shown, and no place «»«»" haw
been pitched on with more feUdty. Itu » high pomtof land,
JJlH I 'lHtTfT' ''•"••"" •"""
m
IBDIAHS— UHCAi.
commanding a noble and extensive view of tiie Thames, here
a laree river, and of the country on both sides. It was there-
fore well fitted for preparation against an enemy's approach,
and furnished every convenience to hostile excursions. At
the same time it bordered on a never-failing supply of pro-
visions, furnished by the scale and sheU fish, with which both
the river and the neighbouring ocean have ever been nchly
* Uncas waa originally a petty sachem ; a Pequod by birth i
a subject and a tributary to Sassucus. When the English
made wa/ on the Pequods, Uncas was unfriendly to this chief,
tain, and would have quarrelled with him, had he not been
kept in awe by the talents and prowess of so forrmdable j
warrior. Upon the death of Sassucus, Uncas became the sa-
chem of the remwning Pequods, as well as of the Moh^am.
In this character he churned, perhaps nghtfuUy enough, m
there was no other acknowledged heir, all the temtory whicH
had been possessed by that tribe ; and had a sufficient shatt
of cunning to support his claims with very plausible reasons;
they were therefore generally allowed. From this Ume he
be«im« one of the most formidable, and altogether the most
prosperous Indian chief in the southern parts of New-Eng.
land: To his enenues he was scarcely less formidable than
Sassucus had been before him. At the head of four or
five hundred men, he met Miantonomoh, a brave and sam.
cious chief of the Narrhagansetts, coming to attack him with
twice tlie number; and after having in vain challenged him
to single combat, defeated his army, took him prisoner, and
put him to deatli. On this occasion he cut a piece of flesh
hom his shoulder, roasted, and ate it ; and with the true spi-
rit of a savage, declared, that it was the sweetest meat which
he had ever tasted in his life. Uncas died at an advanced age,
in his own house ; and left his power and his property to bis
A few years since, a man descended from Uncas came from
North Carolina, or Tennessee, where he was settled, and Cb-
tuned permission of the Connecticut le^slature to sell b»
patrimonial share in tliis tract. This man had received a mill- 1
toiy commission from the British government! and it is said,
was well dressed, well informed, senwhle, and gentlemanly
in his deportment. He is probably the only respectable de- '
•cendwrt (rfUncM now living. n--. i^^v - '
LKS— UHCAi.
xtengjve view of the Thames, here
luiitry on both sides. It was there-
tion against an enemy's approach,
snience to hostile excursions. At
1 on a never-failing supply of pw-
;ale and shell fish, with which both
iring ocean have ever been richly
)etty sachem i a Pequod by birth;
to Sassucus. When the Bnrli«ti
Uncas was unfriendly to this chief-
n-elled with him, had he not been
ts and prowess of so formidable >
of Sassucus, Uncas became the aa-
;quods, as well as of the Mohegam.
led, perhaps rightfully enouf^, »
hedged heir, allthe territory which
lat tribe ; and had a sufficient shan
claims with very plausible reasons;
BittUy allowed. From this time he
brmidable, and altogether the most
n the southern parts of New-Eng.
le was scarcely less formidable thu
ire him. At the head of four or
et Miantonomoh, a brave and aa^
gansetts, coming to attack him with
after having in vsun challenged bin
d his army, took him prisoner, and
his occasion he cut a piece of flesh
d, and ate it ; and with the true spi-
that it was the sweetest meat which
life. Uncas died at an advanced age,
ft his power and his property to hi«
in descended from Uncas came from
>8see, where he was settled, and oh-
: Connecticut legislature to sell hii
tract. This man had received a mill-
e British government i and it is said,
iiitormcd, senuble, and gentlemanly
is probably the only respectable de-
living;.
MEW-tOSBOK— IO»T THUMBDll.
2r3
Sew-Londm is situated on a decUnty, upon the western
side of the Thames. This river a about two-thirds of a mUe
wide, and forms a harbour of great capacity and depUi. Ves-
sels of ahnort any size find in It sufficient water «nd go°d an-
chorinir (cround. It is also perfectly safe. The centre of the
town"fa^t three mUe. &om its mouth. The site is plea-
lant; but would be handsomer if less encumbered with rocks.
The principal streeta are parallel with the nver, and are
JWd bySera nearly at right angles, but w.Ujout «iy
regularity, either in their iUstances or theur direcUon. lU
population is about thirty-five hundred. n^„.^u nn
Proceeding down the Thames, we pass Fbrt GrunvoUon
the eastern. Sid Fart TrumbuU on the western shore of tihe
rim, both celebrated for one of the most disgaceful wU
which 18 lecoided in the annals of ""^dwn w"**^" J" ??
year 1781. a body of British troops embarked at Long W-
S under the command of General Arnold, on themght
i preceding the 6th of September; and having crossed Um
Sound, ^ed at ten o'clock the next monung, in two d«.
i SntTon the two shores of the Thames «ear it. mouA.
The detachment which hinded on the Groton shore was com-
manded by Colonel Eyre j the other by Arnold himsetf. F^
i TrumbuU. a small and imperfect work, was evacuated at the
approach of the British, the litUe garrison stationed ui it
croasingtherivertoFortGrisWold. Colonel Eyre at the same
time led on his corps to attack Fort Gnswold. defended at
that time by about one hundred and fifty mUiUa. hastily col-
lected (some of Uiem without arms) for this P»fn>Mf • A* ttte
British drew near die fort, a firing commenced with g«« »«■
wlution. and was maintained with the utmost 'P""^ "";?"*«
command of the gallant Colonel Leydard, for a considerab e
time. Eyre was soon wounded, and Major Montgomery, Uie
second in command, killed. Major B««J>^«\d.Ae officer
next in rank, conducted the remainder of the «»*? H^nw- T^^
British were severely handled, and though greaUy superior m
numbers, and in every mUitiuy advantage except bravery, m
' said to have doubted for a time whetKer to eontmue or re-
linquish the assault The fort, originally imperfec^ had been
neglected, and had materiaUv gone to dewy. Stdl the iu>
tion lasted forty minutes, when the assadanto c«nied Uie
works by the ba/onet The resistance instimtiy terminated.
Tha British leader, upon entering the fort, asked who com-
oirt iiji »iiiM » iWrti i i<( i *i ii W' '» *»°* * * ''* * ' ' '
. „ ,.....„#
374
TOmT emiiWOlB— •ATBMOK.
maiuled. The brave Leydard, who, by his defence, had
uieriteU the highest respect from every mihtary, and particu-
larlv from eveiy generous man, answered, "1 did comniaml,
sir , but you do now." As he uttered these words he pre-
sented the hilt of his sword to the British commander, and
was instantly run through the body. The Americans had lost
but five or six men when the British entered the fort. A
causeless and furious carnage commenced immediately on me
death of Leydardi and between sixty and seventy Amcncanii
were killed on the spot, after they had surrendered tiieir
arms, and ceased from every kind of hostdity.
Three miles below, we reach Long Island Sound, passing
on the right a promontory on which there is a hght-house.
Our cour^ is now along the southern shore of Connecticut,
which is indented with numerous bays, runmng up between
the projecting headlands. At six miles we pass Bladt i'oiitf,
and five niUes titfther Griswold's Point, at the mouth of the
Connecticut river. On the opposite or western promontory a
the town of Saybrook, which derives its name from i^ords hay
and Brooke, who were the first proprietors of it. It is seat- 1
ed on a beautiful plain, at the foot of the hills, and its prmci-
pal street is about one mile in length, lying nearly parallel
with the Sound. Seveial of the houses «* "«»* ' Vfhfh-S;
able number are ancient and ordinary. The soil of the Mb
and valleys is generally good; and that of the plain excellenU
easUy cultivated, and productive of all the grams and fruits
of the climate. ■j„...jl
iiaybrook has been commonly, but erroneously, considered
as the most ancient settiement in Connecticut. The nwt M-
ronean house in the state was built at Hai-ttord, by the Dutc^
in ltSS3. and called the Hirse of Good Hope. The second w«
built a few weeks afterwaixls in Windsor, by William HoUnet
of Plymoutii. On the 29th of October, 1635, a colony ftom
Dorchester, in Massachusetts, planted themselves in Wmdwr.
Two other colonies, about the same time, began the setue-
mfnt of Hartford and Weathersfield. About the midth of October, 1635, a colony from
etts, planted themHelves in Wmdsor.
ut the Hume time, began the settle-
eathersfield. About the middle of
p, a company sent by John M'in-
ther necessaries, came to Sa^brook,
rorks, and mounted two pieces of
maiy war, a fort of the same dimen-
same spot, to prevent British priva-
:iver. For this purpose it was pe^
.W f 1 1
•1
SACRCm's BBAD— VEW-HATCir.
275
frctly fitted ; u the channel lies almost under the mouths of
its cannon. Since the peace of 1783, these works have been
suffered to decay- A part of the wall of the ancient fort is
stiU visible, as are also the ruins of a well, dug within, to fur-
nish water for the garrison.
Passing Cornfield Point, Duek Island, and HammohamtU
Ikad, we reach m sixteen miles Faulkner's Island, where thet-e
it a light-house, and opposite to which, on the main land., is
Sathtm'i Head. This is a ship harbour, and received this de-
nomination in the year 1637, from the following fact. Two
Pequod sachems, after the defeat of that tribe by Captain
Mason, were taken by the troops under Captain Stone, and
had their lives spared upon promising to discover the place
to which their countrymen had fled. The English brought
them to this place, and finding that they obstinately refused
to give the stipulated information, beheaded them.
In thirteen miles, passing the Thimble Islands, we reach
New-Haven light-house, and proceeding up the bay five
miles, that city itself.
The site of New-Haven is a plain at the head of this bay,
l^ing between two ranges of hills on the east anA west ; and
hmited, partly, on the northern side, by two mountains, call-
ed die East and West Rock, a spiu- from the latter, named
Pine Rock, and another from the former, named Mill Rock,
which descends in the form of a handsome hill to the north-
em skirt of the city. The harbour is well defended from
winds, but is shallow, and gradually filling up with mud. It
has about seven feet on the bar at low water, and the com-
mon tides rise six, and the spring tides sei'en or eight feet.
The long wharf is three thousand nine hundred and forty-
three feet in length, the longest in the United States. In
1765, it was only twenty rods long, yet there is less water at
its termination now, than there was at that period. The
maritime commerce of New-Haven, is greater tlian that of
an^ other town in Connecticut. The shipping belonging to
this y-r^ \n 1821, amounted to ten thousand two hun(&ed
and 1 1 .' f.ve tons. The population of New-Haven is about
seven ti;<..jsand five hunmred, but the area it occupies is
probably ^.s large as that which usually contains a city of six
times the number of inhabitants in Europe. A considerable
proportion of the houses have court-yards in front, and gar-
dens in the rear. The former are ornamented with trees
■t p. WJM i ' P 'l W t ' ^l'- ^ '| F
576
KiwuTKir—iAn C0tlltt«.
^•'SewH^^n U one of the mo.t agreeable to«m. in thel
Dn?t^8Uter The streeto are sandy, but are kcptdeinl
SKho^lS; moidyof wood, two rtories high, not «p«».l
The "*»••*■ J^."""' „et havine an appearance of ncatnail
"L%omf^ SK hSa^^endy erected, are «=vc.|
^taSSSe £c^of brick^ «°"^- '^'''PJ'^Jfh'n
2d tKrindpal 'treets are finely ornamented with ^^1
JS a «SrSof the houses have gardens m ^erew.filWl
nMMtico The bimal-irround, in the nortn-wen pan oi »«
E^^in ohlertof particuUr intereiit. It is laid out i.l
SJCami ~Mi& h»to family buying places; jj
SSe SSTented with rows of trees. The monumenUj
n^lv aU of mwblc. Great taste is manifesUd in the wnoui
«U^TSf«Kht different buildings, founded and erected!
SlsSlSt tiSS but all incor^ted "f « *«£H
!. -iTTrf' ««The President and Fellows of Vale College, j
Kn^Jie J\L.Kri&y from 6<»v«*n<»f ^f^^' *•"» "A
JXn^SJKi^T^dfn honour of whom it w«i^^^
SieS^Tder this name w^oriP^^^y f?:^!;^^^
at KinSrth. whence itwasre«noyedm IWto 8^^^^^
jtu-T--. ♦« Moor.HAven in 1716. The first DUiloing w»i|
Sr^ wSh S^ tiU 1782. when it was taken W
idC«iSttt^Sje^bttiltonitssit«. ThecoUegeUbn
L
IK— tA» COLLIOI.
luxuriantly filled with fruit tree,
eUbles. The beauty utd healthful.
need no explanation. The central
ted to public uaea, and if one of tht
ited States. On and around it ut
ings, consisting of a state-house, u
rick, the college edifices, and foui
I, two for Congregationalists, veij
or EpiscopaUans, a beau^ul gothic
for Methodists. Besides these, the
ms-house, a custom-house, an aa.
n hundred volumes, a museum, two
ffices, six printing-ofllces, firom foui
are issued, and two other periodiol
r the most agreeable towns in the
eets are sandy, but are kept clesn.
r wood, two stories high, not expeii'
et having an appearance of neatncK
le houses recently erected, are sevc
brick and stone. The public squiR
ts are finely ornamented with treo,
touses have gardens in the rear, filled
g the city a rural and delightful sp.
^und, in the north-west part of the
t part
laid
articular interest. It is laid out ir
ded into family buiying places ; thi
rows of tree*. The monumenU uc
■rest taste is manifested in the whole
uice is solemn and impresiive.
is Yale College, one ot the most cele
)ns in the United SUtes. It consiiti,
erent buildings, founded and erected
all incorporated under the genera)
ent and Fellows of Yale College."
inidty from Governor Yale, who wi
and m honour of whom it was named
name was oiiipnally founded in 1700
e it was removed in 1709 to Saybrook,
ren in 1716. The first building w»>
Bd till 1782, when it was Uken down
:c built on its stt«. Th« college libra
■ " l i ii um
TALt COLLIOI— rAiariiiD.
27/
w»
fvconUins about seven thousand volumes and three librarieii
belonging to societies contain tojfethcr two thousand fivi*
hundred volumes. The philosophical and the chemical ap-
paratus are very excellent. A cabinet of minerals was dcpo-
sited here in 1811 by Geoivc Gibbs, E»^., the original cost
of which was fo»ir thousand pounds stcrimg i the number of
specimens, ten thousand. The college has another cabinet,
containing about four thousand specimens. The number of
\mdergniduates in 1821 was three hundred and twenty-five,
medical students seventy-eight, total four hundred and three*
total number educated, to IS'20, three thousand four hunchtsd
and seventy-eight ; number living, one thousand eight hun-
dred and eighty-four.
Leaving New-ilavcn, and proceeding up the Sound, the
tirst prominent object that strikes us is Straifurd Point, and
;ix miles beyond, on a little bay, is the town of fltirjirlt/.
This place, like New-London, was, in the revolutionary war,
the scene of a di^rraceful invasion by a party of the British.
On the 7th of July, 1776, a body of troops, chiefly tories,
under General Tryon, formerly (governor of New-York, land-
ed near Fairfield. The women and children, on the alarm,
generally fled, with such few articles as they could carry
with them i the men, who were mostly in arms, retired to a
distance, being uiuiblc to- make any effectual resistance.
The invaders then pillaged the town of what they could
conveniently carry away, robbed the inhabitants of their
watches, money, and other things, and set fire to every house
in the place, to the number of sixty, with the church, meet-
mg-housc, school-house, and other public buildings. Se-
veral women had remained to secure their property, some
of whom had protections from officers of the British forces,
who had been prisoners and lodged with them ; others were
notorious for their affection to the British cause : but they
were all treated alike with brutal insult, and their pro-
perty consumed with the rest. The old people make this
event the constant theme of their stories, and say that the
town has never recovered its losses. However, it is now re-
built, >*-ith as many or more houses than it originally con-
tained. The inhabitants consist of storekeepers, mnkeepers,
some lawyers, and a few farmers who are independent enough
to live in U»e town, or whose farms closely adjoin it The
loss sustuned by the burning of Fairfield, ww eKtiatatcd »t one
A A
I
..lU.fiifcft.i-i'jrv-
E
(iKkCNWIOl WWT— •AlH HLAWBi.
hundred and thirty ^ix thouMnd doUut. Dunng the Mine
expedition of Oovemor Tryon, the towni of Norwilk, uro-
ton, Mid icveral vilUret, were »Uo burnt, mnd New-Hwen
ravaged and Uid ui»der contribution. In 1T81, the city ot
New-I^ndon, iui we h»ve Mentioned, wm burnt by General
Arnold, although it wwi hia natire place— «ich waa the wn.
dictive apirit ihown by thia man againat hia own countrymen.
Tl;e whole amount of theae loaaea, aa aacertamed by the Us.
iriidature of Connecticut, waa aiz hundred and lorty-aeven
thoutand doUant and in conaideration of the kiaaea of the
private aufTertrs, the atate granted them fire hundred thou,
aand acrea of land on the aouth aide of Lake Erie.
Seventeen nulea beyond Fairfield, ia Oremwuh Pottd, and
a little diatance further the boundary line between ConnecU-
cut and New-York atrikei the Sound. In our paaaagfe, this
line expanse of water now becomes narrower < the lalands
are more numerous, and the shores on each side are more
distinctly seen. Of these, notliing can exceed the beauty.
The vanoua points succeawvely stretchinjf into the bowmi ot
the water, with the inwervening indentation* j the village*,
which aucceed each other at moderate distances, with their
white spires, seen over the tops of the trees, or mmg in the
open view; the rich fieUa, which everywhere form the mar-
gin « the hills, gradually ascending as the eye advances into
the interior, covered with farms and crowned with groves;
and the multitude of vessels, skimming tlie surface in every
dtfection— combine altogether as many varieties of beauty,
serenity and cheeifuhiess, as can easily be united within the
same limits. The Sound is replenished wiUi a great vancty
of very fine fish. Am-wg the finny tribes may be reckonid
the cod, the striped and sea baaa, the black fisli, the sheep s
head, the blue fish, the frost fiah, the white perch, tiie plaice,
the flounder, and many others t of shell-fish, there are l«b
sters, crabs, oysters, cUuns, muscles, &c.
Beyond Thngmorton't Paint, the Sound becomes narrow,
very suddenly. Thence to New-York, a succession of hand-
some villas is seen at little disUnces, on both shores. We
can hardly imagine a more pleasing series of objects, when
viewed in connection with their appendages.
About right miles before we reach the city. Great and
Litfle Bam Aland*, witii aevend oUiers, occupy nearly the
whole breadth of the Sound, leaving but narrow channels
r
■ brtwec
I llaerlei
torn of
which
positioi
uiul th(
river,
formed
fxagP
found I
floods
to its a
l)ut lit)
xnd a I
uut th
be thr
Froi
lie m
he wl
ihe vil
be cit
:u N«'
—■AM ISLAVDl*
d doUara. During the nme
the towni of Nomrtlk, Gro.
aUo burnt, and New-Haren
bution. In 1781, th« city of
ioined, wm burnt by General
tive pUce — luch wu the vin-
I againtt hU own countrvmen,
IM*, u aecertained by the le^
nz hundred and forty-Mven
ideration of the kMiea of the
nted them fire hundred thou-
It tide of Lake Erie,
ffield, ii ChrtmwUh Point, and
indary line between Connecti>
Sound. In our paaiag^e, this
icomet narrower! the iilands
ihores on euch side are more
J»ing can exceed the beauty.
y Htretching into the hoeom oi'
ig indentations; the villages,
noderate distances, with their
18 of the trees, or lisinff in the
lich everywhere form the mar-
ding as the eye advances into
ns and crowned with groves ;
ikimming U»e surface in every
r as many varieties of beauty,
Ml easily be united within the
iplenished with a great variety
finny tribes may be reckonid
us, the block fisli, the sheep's
ih, the white perch, the plaice,
Bt of shell-fish, there are lob
iisclcs, &c,
U, the Sound becomes narrow,
:w-York, a succession of hand-
istances, on both shores. We
leasing series of objects, when
iir appendages.
we reach the city, Great and
end others, occupy nearly the
, leaving but narrow channels
mtt BATIl— ■■OOKtItr— 1HW.T«»«.
879
between them. Immediately to the north of these islands,
ilaerltm Hiver dischurgcs itself into the East river i the bot-
tom of which is formed by lanrc blocks of granite, some of
which are visible. Owing to tins pecidiarity of situation, the
position of the rocks, the sudden contraction of the Sound,
and the influx and efflux of the tide into and fi»oin Haeriem
river, a remarkable wliirlpool, called A