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"^ i 
 
 1, lioilt'rick Kiiiliiyrtoii, mow (1801) of Victoria, Vhii- 
 eouv(>r Ksliiiul, was Immmi in tlm year iSlS, in Ross shire, 
 North I'rifain, and tMliicatiMl there, tlic son (»f a sheep ami 
 other stock fanner in tlie same county. 
 
 ShIUmI from Ghisjrow for New York in a nassenm-r sail- 
 inj^ shi|», in 'Inly, I8i{7, reached New York after a tediiuis 
 passaj^e of forty (hiys, early in Septemher. New York was 
 th(Mi not much hirfr(>r than Victoria is now, imsiness 
 depressed, money scarce, the principal currency hein^ small 
 pa|R'r notes from a ([uarter (d' a dollar U[)war<Is, which could 
 not he exchantred for coin excej)t at a heavy tliscount. 
 
 At New York 1 accidentally met a kind relative, l>y 
 whose intlnence I received an appointment in the service of 
 the lluilsoii's liay Company, as apprentice clerk, and pro- 
 ceeded to my destimition to the head otlice of the Company 
 in (/anada, tt)ok passao;e in a steamer up the Hudson liiver 
 t(» Alhany, thence hy stajre to White-Hall, thence hy boat, on 
 a canal, drawn hy horses to liake Champlain, where I took 
 passage hy steamer to 8t. .lohn. and thence hy the tirst rail- 
 way then in the Dominion to J^aprairie, where I crossed the 
 Kt. Lawrence hy ferry to Montreal, from Montreal I took a 
 caleche to Lachine on the St. Lawrence, the head ofttce of 
 the (^ompnny, my (h^stinatiun. 1 was there employed at the 
 desk for sometime, when a vacancy took place at a station on 
 tlu^ Ottawa Iliver named Fort Coulonm' and was directed to 
 proceed thither in a lurch hark caiu)e, with thr»'e men. passed 
 the town of Hy-Town on my way, now tlie City of )ttawa, 
 wliich was then but a small plac^>, consisting of a . .iw-mill 
 
 229690 
 
\ 
 
 witli rtevtiral small \o^ eahiiis around (K*cu(»it'<l Ity the men 
 employed. Hoth hanks of the Ottawa Jtiver wt^re then 
 thickly wooded, with clearanceH in some plat'ess formed hy 
 the early settlers thus hewint; farms for thenjselves out of 
 the thiek forest. Ilt^ached my destinatimi safely after hard 
 work paddlin gour canoe up stream, I was placed in a store 
 to trade with the natives and lumher men there on the river 
 and thus initiated into the mode of trade carried on l)y tlie 
 Company. 
 
 1 remaintMl at tliis station (Kort Coulon^e) during the 
 winter of 1887-8 and the country l»ein^ then in a state of 
 rebellion with lawless people roamintr altoiit the country. I 
 was appointed in the summer of iHliH to the charge of Kort 
 William, another station l»elon«i;in«r to the (company, farther 
 np the Ottawa, with twelve men. There I was one day 
 attacked hy one of these hrifrunds, when (lefending myself 
 against him attempting to break into the store. I got badly 
 Iiurt in the encounter but managed to keep him and others 
 who joined him at bay until my men came to the rescue 
 when the robbers escaped into the woods. After this until 
 the end of the rebellion the nwn at the (^ouipany's station 
 had to be drilled into the use of tire-arms, and kept on M'atch 
 regularly iiight an(i day. 
 
 In tlie spring of IH^V,) I was directed by the Govenor to 
 hold myself in readiness at f»nir hours notice to join a brigade 
 of four large bark canoes on the way up from I^achine, the 
 liead otHce, with otHcers and men, appointed to })rocxrd to 
 the Columbia District on the west of the liocky Mountains, 
 in order to take possession of part of the Russian Territory 
 
.1 the North Pacific for TratU' piirpoHns, that was leased 
 from the RuHsian American Fur Co., hy the IlndHon Bay 
 Co. in London. I tlien had to h^ave Fort William with 
 much regret, to u successor appointed, and joined the party 
 for tlie West. We proceeded up the (Ottawa with four large 
 birch hark canoes, the party consisting of forty men and 
 officers, to Lake Nipising, thence down the French River to 
 Lake Iliiron, up Lake Huron to Lake Superior, aU)ng the 
 north shore of which \\v paddled our way to what is now 
 Port Arthur, changed our canoes here for smaller ones ajid 
 pursued our way up the Kaministiquia Kiver to the lieight 
 of land, where the canoes and l"ggage had to he carried by 
 the men until we reached the water leading into The Lake of 
 the Woods, paddled our canoes through the lake to the river 
 Rainy River) that falls into Lake W^innipeg, paddled along 
 thip north shore of Lake Winnipeg to Norway House, 
 another station of tlie Company's, on the north of the lake, 
 where we remained about a M'eek. There we met a large 
 numl)er of officers and men from the Ijiterior, with their 
 annual collection of furs, bound for York Factory, tliere to 
 deliver their furs and receive their annual outfits for tlie next 
 year. From Norway Uouse we continued our way down the 
 rivtM- (Nelson) which leads to York Factory on Hudson's 
 l>ay, the head ilepot there which we reached ia due time and 
 whce We remained about a fortnight, rejjlenishing our stock 
 of provisions, etc., for the westward jo\irney. Here I had a 
 first view of the sea since leavint; Xew York. 
 
 Having received our equipment for the wostorn journey 
 at this place we j)arted with our friends at the Factory and 
 
 .L 
 
6 
 
 \ 
 
 left iiiuliT the cominand of Dr. John MoLo«ijffhli'ii t\w\\ tlu< 
 Chief Factor in charge of the Cohi'ubiM DiHtriet, with many 
 hearty cheers from onr friends at the Kaet()ry, and proeeeiK'd 
 up the Nelsini Uiver to Norway House attain, here we 
 excluini'ed our hireii hark eanoes for hatteaux for navijratiuir 
 Lake WinnijM'jf and the Saskatelu'wan Uiver, from Norway 
 House we eoasted ah>ni; the northwest end of the hike to the 
 mouth of tlie Saskatchewan Uiver up whicli wt^ proceeded, 
 calling at the stations of Fort Oarh'ton, Fort Pitt aiul 
 Edmonton, on the river. .\t tiu' last place, the Chief 
 Station of the Saskatchewan District, we left our hatteaux 
 and took hors<'s acro.ss the plains to the .Vthahii^cii Uiver, to 
 Fort Assinihoims where we a}^;iiu took hirch h.irk eanoea and 
 j)addled uj) tlu' Athaliaska Uiver to .faspi'r's House, in the 
 Kocky Mountains, from this place we u<^ain took horses and 
 crossed the Uocky Mountains to the head waters of fhe 
 Columhia Uiver whert^ we found hatteaux amiin waitiuii for 
 us, and passed down the Columhia Uiver callinjrat Fort Col- 
 ville, Okanairau, Walk Walla, stations Itelonoinjr to the 
 Comj)any, and rt^ac.hed Fort V^aiicouver on the Columhia, tlie 
 head station of the ('oinpuny in the Cohimhia District, which 
 we reached about the nuddU' of NovemI)er, heiui; si.v months 
 sine* I left Fort Williat i on the Ottawa. Shortly after my 
 arrival here I was placed in char<]re of a saw and trrist mill, 
 ahout five tnih^s above the Fort, on the river, where I had a 
 gaiif^ of twenty-four men to look after at both mills and 
 8hip[)ing lumber and spars in ships to the Sandwich Islands, 
 Fort Vancouver being situated at the head of miviuation for 
 large ships coming up the river from sea. 
 
In the RpriiijT of 1840 the party to which I heh)iifre<l 
 U'ft nirain in boats down tlic CohuMitiu to tht« Cowlitz Uiver, 
 up wliich we as(HMnle<l to a farm on tlio (-owlitz Plain wliere 
 we took hornCK to Niwj.ially, a fort at tlie lioad of I'li^et 
 Sound kept there for the fur tra(h' and sheep farming. At 
 this place we found the steamer "Beaver" waitino; for us, on 
 hoard of which wt^ took our Massac J alonp; the Coast, passing 
 Vancouver Ishuul on our h^ft, the mountains of wliich 
 appared plain to the westward. T little thought then when 
 looking at the islaml that it woidd ultinuitely he my home. 
 On the way north, in the " Heaver," we called at P'ort Lang- 
 ley, Fort McLaughlin, Fort Simpson, stations l»elongi!ig to 
 the Company, the last (in 54', the boundary betwei n British 
 and Russian Territory. From Fort Simpson we proceeded 
 to Fort Stickeeu, one of the Russian Forts on the coast, 
 which was numned by thirty-two men and a gun brig for 
 defence. According to agreement we took possession of 
 Fort Stickeeu, which the Russians evacuated and left us, iin 
 oiticer with eighteen men, in charge, to carry on the trade 
 and defend themselves against the wild natives then on the 
 coast. It was not my lot to remain here then, after settling 
 matters at Fort Stickeeu the rest of the party under command 
 of C'hief Factor Douglas, proceeded in the "IJeaver" to Sitka, 
 the head station of the Russian Amerian Company on the 
 the coast. Here matters were settled between Mr. Douglas 
 and the Russian Governor at Sitka, we were received most 
 cordially by the Russian officers, had a salute of !> guns tired 
 in our honor by the ships of war in the harbor, which was 
 returned from the ''Beaver" guns in gran«l style. After 
 remaining about ten days at Sitka, settling various nuitters 
 
1 1P» 
 
 ( 
 
 8 
 
 \ 
 
 roliitivo to oiir fiitiiro trndc with the Kiipsiiiii (-oinpany, tho 
 party loft in thi» '* Mchvit " (having/ hem sahittMl as hcfore 
 and -eturiuMl from tlie " Hcuvt«r ") to the Gulf of Taco and 
 River, f(»r the jinrjMme of i'Htahlirthin<r u fort there for trad- 
 in«4 piUMosort, we artct'n<I'(i the river in hoats for about ;{() 
 miles lo(»kinir for a pl.'ice to hniht hut found none <»n the 
 river and «eleeted a plaeu ahout 50 miles, in a land loeked 
 liarhor, when- we huilt a fort on tie usual jdaii, called it 
 Fort Durham in honor of the (tovornor (teiieral of ('amida. 
 It took sonut time to hiiild this fort ami make it defensible 
 against the warlike Indians in the vicinity. When it was 
 considered in a projH'r state for (hffence, with bastions 
 erected at the anjrles of the stockadt^, a party was left to take 
 possession consisting <d' eighteen men and two otlicers, of 
 whom I was one, sticond in command. Mr. Douglas then 
 left for th(* south in the " IJeaver," when wo were left to our 
 own resources to make tho Itest of our circumstances. It 
 was now lat'j in October and the fort built on Taco harbor 
 surrounded with high mountains as dismal a place as could 
 ptssiiily l»e imagined, the rain pouring down in torrents 
 a<lding to onr other discomforts. The journal kept at this 
 place showed rain and snow for nine months out of the 
 twelve. We openud trade with the natives, a wild turbulent 
 race so that we only allowed a few of them at a time to enter 
 the fort gate for trade. A few years bef(u*e this an American 
 vessel from Boston came to trade in the lUMi^hborhood and 
 had a quarrel with the natives in which a large number of 
 them were killed, and, supposing we were Americans, they 
 tried to take revenge for this by attempting to tak»^ the fort 
 and murder us all. With this view a warrior of the tribe 
 
9 
 
 attomptiMl to foiT(* liiw way in at tlio gate, whore a rmnilMT 
 of otluM'H were wutdiiitjr tin* ^ati'lvt'cper u Samlwicli Islaiuler 
 <li<l all hv could to l<c(*|> tlic man > it, but failed, wlicii I 
 went t(» tlu' ivH<'Ut', haviuij; pihtcdn i-i luy belt, and foreed the 
 fellow out, in doin^ ko I wa^ - /nek 'ly a Uludi^eon and in 
 the heat of paMsiou 1 went outside the gate where I was laid 
 hold of hy a puity of the wild snvaj^es and f(»ree<l away 
 to a dintanee from the gate, when \ eidled out to open 
 blank eartridtreH from tlu^ eannon;ides in the ImKtion to 
 fright<Mi them. In the meantinu- I nuinagecl to get my iMu^k 
 to a tree drew my pistols from my belt and threati'Ued to 
 kill the first nuii\ that attem|)ted to lay hold of nu', my fac,) 
 wa« covered with blootl and otherwise badly hurt. The tir- 
 ing from the bastion frightened the fellows off so I was 
 enabled to return to the fort. Alter this we were besieged 
 for several days, preparing (Uirselves for acition and the 
 natives iiudiiig trade suspeiuled, came to a parley, when it 
 was arranged that on payment of the insult to nte, who was 
 not a IJoston. as tlu^ Americans were called, explained to 
 them, they agreed to pay in furs, a large bundlo of which 
 were brought as payment and accejttetl, peace declared and 
 trade resumed. I then passtMl a disnuvl winter at Fort Dur- 
 ham. In the autu;.»n of 1841 a young gentleman from 
 England arrived in the ship tiiking our supplies, wlio took 
 uiy place at Twn, when I wa.^ directed to proceed to Fort 
 Stikeen (now Wrangel) and much pleased to be relieved of 
 my duty at Taco. On reaching Fort Stikeen I was placed in 
 the trade shop there which 1 fouml a much more pl:asant 
 place than Taco. From Fort Stikeen, in the spring of 1842, 
 1 was directed to go to Fort Simpson to relieve a clerk there 
 
10 
 
 \ 
 
 who left on sick leave, and placed iii the trade shop there. 
 AI)out this time it was found that the steamer " Heaver " 
 with a tr.ider on l)oard could <lo aP the trade carried on at 
 Fort Durham and Stikeen, with that at Fort McLaujijhlin on 
 Millhaidv Sound, so that it was decided at heaJ(piarters to 
 a)):indon this place, concentrate the forces there with the 
 supplies and remove them to the soutli end of Vancouver 
 Tsland, where a new fort Wii> ordered to he huilt. I was in 
 consequence removeil from Fort Simpson, which I found a 
 comfortahle j)leasant place, emharked on hoard tlie "Beaver"' 
 which with a schooner called the "Cadl);)r.) '" had the Stikeen 
 and Taco parties on board au the way south. In passing 
 Millbank Sound, F<u"t IVlcLauiihlin wis dismantled and its 
 itdiahitants taken on hoard. Mr. I))Uirlas, late Sir James, 
 had command of the whole |)arty, we proceeded south and 
 reached Victoria Harbor (^^selected in the spring as tlie fort 
 site) landed there on the Isl June, 1S13, and commenced 
 bnildiii^ the fort with the forces fr«>m the abandoned stations 
 named, consisting of about oO men and iJ officers, out of 
 whom, a Mr. C. lloss, a trader, was apjiointed to the charge 
 with myself as second in command, the " Heaver" and "Cad- 
 bo ro " renuiining as guanl vessels until thy fort was built. 
 The weather being fine and pleasant the operations of Ituild- 
 ing went on rapidly with 50 men eijiployetl. At this time 
 there was a dense forest aloiiij the water on tne harbor and 
 (^amoosin Itdet, as the" Arm " was then <uilled. Wliere the 
 fort was Iniilt there was an open glade with oak trees of 
 large size, wlu're a space of I'M) yards was meat-v.ired off, each 
 way v.hen the fort was built. The natives for soine tinu' after 
 our arrival kept ahtof and would not. come near. After- 
 
 1 
 

 11 
 
 4 
 
 ,1- 
 
 \ 
 
 wards some of tluMU came round gradually, and, finding 
 them inclined to steal anythin<r they could ^et a watch was 
 kept niglit and day, while we lived in tents before houses 
 could he huilt. The natives however soon got rid of their 
 shyness began to remove from the village on (.'adltoro Hay 
 and erect honjes for themselves along the bank of the harbor 
 as far as the presetit site <>f dohnson Street. Their houses 
 consisted of wide cedar boards placed on ])oles stuck in the 
 ground, with cross-beams, over which the boards were placed. 
 In the autumn Mr. Douglas left us. taking the " P.eaver" 
 and '• Cadboro " away, when he considered the place defen . 
 sible. As second in comnumd it became my <luty to look 
 after the men in bnilding and thus became the pioneer 
 builder of houses on the Island of Vancouver on civilized 
 plans. After the fort was built, condsting of cedar pickets 
 18 feet hi«di. round a space of !')() yards s(|uare. with iionses 
 and stores within, and two large block houses, bastion at 
 two anides armed with U pounder cannoiuide blunderbust:es, 
 cutlasses, Arc, taken from the disuumtleil forts named, with 
 ammunition, some of the men were employed clearing the 
 land around to raise vegetables and cereals for the use of the 
 place, in these operations we gradually got some of the young 
 natives to assist, paying them in goods, and found them very 
 usefid as ox drivers in ploughing the land. Hf>rses and 
 cattle were imported from the station at Nisqually, on Puget 
 Sound, to enable us to open a farm here. In the spring of 
 1844 po(U' Mr. Ross who was left in charge by Mr. Douglas 
 w.js iti poor health when he arrived here and died, much 
 regretted, in March, and was buried in the old burying 
 ground near the gully, on Johnson Street now. On the 
 
12 
 
 \ 
 
 death of Mr. Ross being advised to headquarters at Van- 
 couver on the Columbia Ui'ver, I was appointed to the 
 charge of Victoria, witli his son John Ross as my assistant. 
 In 1844 matters went on for some time smoothly enough 
 after Mr. Ross died, wheii it was found that the natives 
 killed some of our oxen feeding in the open spaces. 1 then 
 questioned the Songees cliief about this and demanded pay- 
 ment, as we could not hHow our cattle to be killed in this 
 way with impunity. He went away in a rage, assembled 
 some Cowichan Indians to his villatje and the next move I 
 found on their part was a shower of bullets tired at the fort, 
 with a great noise and demonstration on the part of the 
 crowd assembled, threatening death and devastation to all 
 the whites. I had then to gather up our forces and man the 
 bastions, and did not allow any of our men outside the fort 
 until I could settle the matter with the Indians. Noticing 
 the chief's lodge the largest among the others I directed the 
 interpreter, a half-breed, to go outside, to pretend lie had 
 deserted from us, and to tell them as from himself that I 
 was going to tire on the chiefs lodge and to see that all in- 
 mates had left it in order to prevent bloodshed, and to make 
 a sign to me, at the same time watching matters fronj the 
 bastion, by twisting his handkerchief round, that all was 
 vacant, which he did. I then tired a nine pounder with 
 grape in, and pointed the gun to the lodge, which Hew into 
 the air in splinters like a bombshell, after this there was such 
 howling that I thought a number were killed, and was (juito 
 relieved when the interpreter came round and told me none 
 were killed but nuich frightened, not knowing we had such 
 destructive arms. The chief with some of his men, shortly 
 
 •^ 
 
*' 
 
 18 
 
 after this, caini' to tho c^ate and asked to see iiie, I went and 
 assnnied a warlike attitude and mentioned that nidess the 
 cattle killed were ptiid for I would demolish all their huts 
 and drive them from the plawe. Tlie reply was that he 
 would pay and asked the price, whicli was named, and the 
 next <lay payment in full in furs was made, when peace was 
 restored and hand shakino; took place I mentioned to them, 
 thronjrh the inUirpreter, that we came here to trade peaceahly 
 with them, and did not want war unless we were forced to, 
 80 ended this disajrivcalile affair. At this time I knew our 
 guns would hriug them to their senses, as they had no idea 
 of their power. Had I permitted our men to tire on them the 
 result wouhl have been unfortuiuite. Sometime after this the 
 belt (»f thick wood between the fort an<l dohnson Street in 
 front of which the lodircs were placed, took tire and we had 
 some ditKcnlty in extinonishinir it as it was iraininii; towards 
 the fort, and this 1ir«' havino; been caused by the Indians I 
 wanted them to remove to the other side of the harbor which 
 they at lirst declined to do, sayino; the land was theirs and 
 after a great deal of angry parleying on both sides, it was 
 agreed that if I lUlowed our men to assist" them to remove 
 they would go, to which i consented. This was the origin of 
 the {>resent Indian Reserve. In the Spring of IS+o, a ])arty 
 of natives came from Mellingham liay to trade with us, and 
 traded a large (juanfii > of furs, for which we gave them the 
 goods they wanted in exchange. On leaving the fort in 
 their canoes, they weri' waylaid about Clover Point by a party 
 of Songees aiul robbed of their goods, after which they came 
 back to the fort and complained of their treatment ami asked 
 to be allowed to pass the night within the fort as they were 
 
BBBi 
 
 14 
 
 \ 
 
 afraid of their lives. Thin was a dear case in which I was 
 Itoumi to intcrfiMV to |)r<>t«'ct frioiiilly Indians coiuiii«>; to trade 
 wirh ns. I then sent the interpreter to ^et tliem to restore 
 the tfoods they took from thi-se friendly Indians, as other- 
 wise I would have to take action on their Itehalf, as they came 
 to trade with us. After considering the matter for a time 
 these robbers came to the fort and delivered up the goods; 
 the IJellinghaiu Bay Indians then left with their property, 
 contented, and to previ it further trouble, sent a party of our 
 men, armed, to Trial Island, t(> see them safely homewards. 
 Thus these wild savages Were tausrht to respect British 
 justice. The chief asked nie one day what those iron balls 
 were for that he noticed at the Bastion. 1 told him if he 
 would place an old canoe he did not want in the harbor, op- 
 posite the bastion, he would see the use of them, lie did so 
 atul I loaded one of (»ur guns with one, j)ointed tiie gun at 
 the old canoe in the harbor and Hred, the ball going through 
 and bounded to the opposite side. Xovv, said I, you can see 
 what we can do with our guns and iron italls, when we are 
 attackeil, as you did before. 
 
 Tn the Spring of 18-to the banjue Vancouver, one of the 
 Company's shi])s, sailed into the harbor direct from Kngland, 
 with our goods, being the lirst of the Company's vessels 
 which came direct here havintj been ordered here, as it was 
 the Company's intention gradually to make this the head de- 
 pot and remove from the Columbia River, as tlie Americans 
 claimed that country. In tlie Summer of this yeiir, II. M. 
 frigatti America, Capt. the lion, .lohn (i(»rdon, arrived oft 
 the harbor and sent one of his boats for me to go on board, 
 which I did, and asked where he could anchor. I mentioned 
 
 J* 
 
15 
 
 .. 
 
 Ksquiiiialt liarboi", to which he ohjiH^ted as it wa« not on the 
 cliart as a harhor. lie then proccHMK'd to Port Discovery, on 
 the other tside of tlie Straits, takinp; nie alon«i; with him, after 
 I ha<I made arran<r(.|iients with my second in command to 
 take charge of the fort until my retnrn. At Port Discovery, 
 we pent two of Ids otticers, with a l»oat crew, to the liead of 
 Pnget Sonnd with di^'ections for them to ])roceetl to the C<»- 
 himltia River, and to give a fnll report of the eonntry on 
 their return. After tins lie ordered his long boat manntid. 
 in which he crossed the Straits with some of his otticers, 
 taking ine along with him to ^'^ictoria, where they remained 
 for about two weeks, until the party from the Columbia re- 
 ttirned. Here we made several excursions in the <listrict on 
 horseback, and in the vicinity of (^nlar Hill fell in with a 
 band of deer, whicli we jiursued until they got into a thicket 
 and were thus disa|»pointed in the hunt. Caj>t. Gordon, being 
 a noted deer stalker in the Scottish Highlands, got much dis- 
 appointed at not getting at the deer, aiul on our return, riding 
 through an o[)eu, tine country, with the native grass up to 
 the horses' knei's, I happened to make the renuirk, " AVhat a 
 fine country this is," to which he rejdied that he " wouhl not 
 liive one of the barren hills of Scotland for all he saw around 
 him." Another day lu' was preparing his fishing ruA to fish 
 for saliuon with the fly, when I ^old him the salmon would 
 not take the tly, but were fished here with b:iit. I then pre- 
 pared lishing tackle with bait for him, after which he went in 
 a boat to the mouth of the harbor, and fished several fine 
 sabnoii with the bait. His exclamation on his return was : 
 " What a country, where tlu' salmon will not take the fiy*" 
 I nuiy here mention that (yapt. (iordon was the brother of the 
 
HBi 
 
 16 
 
 \b , '^«'c . I'^arl of Aberdeen, then Prime Minister of England, and that, 
 his niisBion here was to examine and give a report of the 
 
 (Tj fjir^My) conntry, l>otli here and on the other side of the Straits. In 
 consequence of an agreement entered into several years he- 
 tore by the Hudson Bay Co. and the llussi.ui Fur Co. on the 
 coast to supply them with goods from England, with cereals, 
 beef, butter and other farm produce, from Puget Sound, the 
 Columbia, and this part of the country, farms were directed 
 to be opened at the Company's stations. With this in view, 
 a force of men and Iiulians were employed here to clear land 
 and cultivate it, and a large number of horned cattle were 
 imported here from Puget Sound from the farm there, and 
 three large dairies were formed here — one at a j»lace below 
 Church Hill; one at (tonzales, now JVn'iberton's; and the 
 other at the North Dairy Farm eaeh with seventy mileh 
 cows, in charge of dairymen, which produced seventy kegs of 
 butter each in the season, while oats, barley, peas, [)otatoes, 
 etc., were raised on the different farms and exported to 
 settlers. The large wooden building now to be seen on the 
 Hudson Hay Wharf was used as a granary, where the grain 
 was 8t«u'ed for shipment from the ("olumbia, I'uget Sound, 
 Langley and otlu-r places. This produce was shipjied to 
 Sitka. i»oth in Ilussiaii vessels, sent here for the purpose, and 
 the Company's vessels. Our farms here consisted of the 
 \ Fort Farm, on the Hat where the city is now; lieckly Farm, 
 at the south of James Jiay, and the North Dairy Farm, as 
 high as forty bushels of wheat to the acre, was raised here, 
 each bushel weigiiing sixty-three po\iiids, and sold to the 
 llussians at 4s. 2(1. per busliel, paid by bills on St. Petersburg. 
 Labor was cheap^in those days, hence the facility with which 
 
 wm 
 
.: 
 
 4 
 
 17 
 
 those operiiti(»nw wt-n ciirriiMl on. 
 
 In tlio Spriiijj; of IHM'i 1 was diivcted to (fo to the Island 
 of San Juan and j)lant stakes therein from st»nth to north, 
 marked •' Ih-itlsh Possessions," at certain points. A shi'e|i 
 farm and sahnon tisliery were established tiiere sliortly after- 
 ward and eontinued until the ditheulty arose with the United 
 States authority. The hanjue ('ohimhia, one of the Com- 
 pany's vessels, arrived in the Spring with goods and grain 
 from the (!olnml>ia River. The goods were landed, and grain 
 and other jiroduce shij)ped, with which the vess<'l proceeded 
 to Sitka. This Summer, also, II. M. ship Constance, Capt. 
 Courtney, arrived and anchore*! in Esipiinudt, a frigate with 
 500 men and otticers. (^apt. Courteny landed and asked if 
 he could he of any service to me, to which I ri'plied that I 
 was situated here surrounded liy treacherov's Indians, and 
 that if he would he kind enough to land some of his men for 
 exercise in the use of arms, to show the Indians what a man 
 of war was, to which he consented, and landed a large force 
 of marines and hlue jackets next day, with an armed long 
 boat, who performed various evolutions, such as is customary 
 on parade ground, and at the close of the day the Captain 
 asked the chief, through an interpreter, what they thought 
 of the men of war. ^ The reply was : » Is that the way the 
 whites tight, killing each other in the open? We fight 
 behind the trees and rocks and kill our enemies in this way." 
 The Captain was not at all ])leased at the savage's reply. 
 The chief, not losing a chance to beg, asked the Captain for 
 a present, when he was told to go on board for one. The 
 nexf'day he appeared among his people, (piite proud, with a 
 large white jacket on, with '•thief," marked in large 
 
18 
 
 J. 
 
 letters in front, and " liar," on the back, wliicli bin people 
 much admired — its meaning tliey were, of course, kept igno- 
 rant of. This <lisplay of arms from the Constance liad a good 
 effect on the natives, as they were evidently afraid to pick 
 any quarrels with us for some time afterward. 
 
 In this year the frigate Kisgard, Captain Duntze, also 
 arrived, and remained some time here, and afterward went up 
 Pnget Sound and anchored in Nis(jually Roads, where she 
 remained the most of the Summer. Captain Duntze, also, 
 while here, exercised his men on sliore, and showed the 
 natives that we always had men of war to protect us here. 
 
 In the Spring of 1847, two surveying ships arrived — 
 tl»e Herald and Pandora, the former under command of Capt. 
 llellott, aud the lattei- under Comman<ler Wof)d. lioth 
 vessels were employed surveying the Straits of De Fuca, 
 Esquimau Harbor, Victoria, and the Canal de Ilaro, and 
 other places, taking notes, etc., and correcting the charts. 
 While these vessels were here, several other ships of war 
 arrived from the south and anchored in Esqi.imalt, awaiting 
 orders as to whether the country north of the Columbia 
 River were taken possession of or not, as liritish Territory. 
 When the question was settled with the American govern- 
 ment that the iUth parallel was to be the boundary, they left 
 for the south. At this time our farming operations were 
 carried on extensively, so that we were able to supply these 
 vessels with all the beef and vegetables they wanted. The 
 beef was sold to them at 8c. per pound, which paid us well 
 in those days, with vegetables and flour e(jually cheap. At 
 this time a grist and saw mill were in working order at Es- 
 
 t 
 
t 
 
 19 
 
 qnimalt, where the flonr was mnnnfactured and the lumber 
 required for huildiiifr, also, prepared, both run by water 
 power. 
 
 A chartered eliij) arrived from Knghuid thin year with 
 goods, by wlucli a chaplain and his wife arrived — a Mr. R. 
 J. Stains — who jwrformed service on Sundays, at the Fort. 
 Mr. and Mrs. Stains kept a school for the children of the 
 officers of the Hudson Bay Co. then in the country. 
 
 Owing to the contract with the Russian America Co., 
 three banjues — the Columbia, Vancouver and Cowlitz — be- 
 longing to the Company, with occasional chartered ships, 
 were kept on the line between this and England and Sitka, 
 carrying goods from Englan<l to Sitka, and transporting 
 grain, beef, etc., from the Columbia River and this place to 
 Sitka. As the -iOth degree was fixed upon as the boundary 
 line, the Company were preparing, now, gradually, to aban- 
 don their stations soutli of the ^Uth degree in Oregon and 
 AVashington Territories, ami remove north, this place being 
 the objective point, where the head depot was to be estab- 
 lished, and the required buildings were being erected here for 
 the purpose. Instead of the annual ships, with the fur re- 
 turns of the country leaving the head depot at Vancouver, on 
 the Columbia River, they were, since last year, clearing from 
 this place direct for England with the returns, and coming 
 direct here with the supplies. 
 
 In 1848, the farming and other operations with this 
 trade, started here in 1S4;3, continued to assume large pro- 
 portions, and Itecame the centre of the Company's trade west 
 
20 
 
 1 
 
 of tlic Iloeky \[f)imtains. Tlio cattle iiicirarted so that it 
 bwame ditHciilt to herd them all, an thoy >vaudi'red into the 
 woods. Til this way wo lost a lart^n niiiiiher, which were 
 found aftiM'Wiii'd hy hunters in the interior of the island 
 Tliis ve.ir the briirade^ of horses, with the fnr returns from 
 the interior, instead of j^ointr to tlie Columbia by way of 
 KamloKj)'? and Okanaj^an, came across the (Cascade Mountains 
 from lviiml(>i>ps to Kort Ifopr'. on the Fraser River, through 
 whitrh a trail was cjit out f(»r the |»urj»ose, thus avoiding 
 American territ(»ry. The furs were boated down from 
 IlojK) to Langley and then to this place. 
 
 ., 
 
 \ 
 
 About this time I may mention that the lease which the 
 Company held of th') country west of the Itocky Mountains 
 from tiie (h'own, was becoming of little or no use to them by 
 reason of AnuM'ican and other vessels comin«j to the coast to 
 trade, and interl*(M'in<r with their exclusive ritrhts. and in case 
 of any of them being seized, which the Company could easily 
 do, as their vessels were then armed and manned like men of 
 war, they, the (Jomp:vny, applied to the British (irovernment for 
 protection. Tlie Minister of the day's answer was, that they 
 coid<l not st'iid men of war around the Horn for the purpose, 
 and said the (Company might protect thomstdves. The Com- 
 pany's answer was tliat in ciso of seizing any vessel, there 
 was no legal court of justice to try such cases short of Mont- 
 real, 3,000 miles away, 'vhen it was arranged to turn Van- 
 couver Island into a Crown ('olony, and that a (iovernor 
 would be sent out, and that the CVunpany would lutul them- 
 selves to colf)nize it by granting them tlie island in fee simple 
 for the purpose, which was carried into effect the following 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 A 
 
-r 
 
 21 
 
 { 
 
 
 year. Tliis waa the tirrit stop and cause of Viuicouvor Island 
 Iteing nmdo a crfjwn colony on tliirt western «'oiist. 
 
 In tlie Spn'ntr of 1H4U a vcssc' appeartMl in the liiirbor, 
 the crow of which wore red thiniud shirts, and wiicn tlicy 
 landed we took thoni to he pirate-*, f ordered the ni mi to 
 tlie guns, minnetl the bastions antl made ready for def'^nce. 
 I then interviewed tl»e men, from the ^ate, who told me i hey 
 were jK^aceable traders, come from San Francisco, with <^old, 
 to trade for goods, as this was the only station on the north- 
 ern coast where they could get the goods they wanted. 
 Having satisfied myself that they were what they represented 
 themselves to be, I let them in, and they then told me that 
 gold had been discovered in (/alifornia in large (juantities the 
 previous Fall, and tliat they had gold nuggets which they 
 wouhl irladlv exchange for goods, niey producerl several 
 nuggets, the value of which •>! at first sight felt doubtful of, 
 but brought om^ of the nuggets to the blacksmith's shop, 
 and told him and his assistant to hammer it on the anvil, 
 which they did, and flattened it out satisfactorily. I then 
 n^ferred to my hook on minerals, and found that the 
 specimens appeared to me to be genuine. I then 
 offered them $11 per ounce for their gold, which they 
 accepted without a murmur, aiul having thus nu'utioned my 
 price and received no ol)jections, I felt doubtful but con- 
 cluded to accept it, and the nade went on. They then took 
 in exchange such goods as were not required for (»ur own 
 trade, such as old pots of iron, sea boots, blankets, baize, etc., 
 for which I got satisfactory prices. I thus traded a consid- 
 erable sum in gold nuggets, the amount of whicdi I cannot 
 
 { 
 
22 
 
 now call to mind, l»nt, Uoiiip doiilttftil uh to the viilut> T put 
 on tlu' ^old, I (lispatcluHl a caiUK' with ci^lit IuuuIk. to I*uj;rot 
 Sound, and tlienw to tlio head (h^pot at Vancouver, with 
 PjMicinions of my trade, and asking whethi'r I wat* ri^lit or 
 wronjr, Tlie answer was that I was rij/Jit, and tliat more 
 goods wouUi he sent me to carry on the trade. Afterward 
 anotiier vessel came to trade in the same way, whei no of 
 tlie traders offered me !$1,()()() jH'r nutntli if I wouki ^o and 
 take cliari£e of his store in San Francisco, as cU'rkH A*ere 
 scarce there. Then my reply was that I dediiu'd with thanks, 
 when he mentioned " I guess yon must he pretty well paid 
 here." I, at the same time, had a salary of £1(M) jier annum 
 from the Company, which, of couri-e, 1 did not tell him. 1 
 was, however, under an engagement with the Company to 
 give twelve months' notice hefore (putting the service, so 1 
 remained at my post. This, and several otlier vessels came 
 from C'alifornia to trade, from^vhich consideralde (piautities 
 of gold was received in trade. After this our ojmrations 
 here g<»t considerahly disarranged, hy nund)ers of our men 
 leaving for the California diggings, including the sailors from 
 our ships, when pay had to l»e considerahly increased to in- 
 duce them to remain. We had to employ Indians as sailors 
 to replace our seamen in the ships and lahourers on land. 
 
 \ This year, 1849, the late Sir James Douglas, then Mr. 
 
 C. F. Douglas, removed with his family from the depot on 
 the Cohnnhia Uiver to this place, as l»y this time the princi- 
 pal business of the department was carried on here. I was 
 thus relieved of the onerous duties I had to perform here, 
 since I built the fori and carried on business here since June, 
 
 
S8 
 
 \ 
 
 ' 
 
 ' 
 
 i 
 
 I84n. Mr. Doii^liiH liHviiif^r tulvi-n tlic MU|)t'riiit»'ii(U'iicf of the 
 biisiru'SH ill liuiid, I wuh pluciMl in flit- <»Hlct^ as lu'iul lU'coiiiit- 
 Hiit, wliich 1 li('l«l until tlu« ynir 1802. Tlii' ('MMi|)imv now, 
 this v«'iir, 184J), luivinir tiikcn in liimd tlir coloni/.ution of the 
 Isliuul, liiivinij; n'ci'ivt-d it in fee sini|»Ii' fn^ni the IJritisli 
 GovoriiMUMit on certain conditions, a (lovcriior, u Mr. Mlancli- 
 ard, was a|)|iointi>d in Kntflan<l to come out as (iovcrnor, and 
 arrived here in a friiratt^ fnnn Paiuiina, in IH,^>(I, [lu* Sum- 
 nier of tim following; year. On his arrival the iinnates of the 
 fort were aKKei.d»le<l in our old mess room to hear the proc- 
 lamation read, as M'ell as the (iovernor'ri cor.iniission. The 
 employees of the ( 'ompany were then the only settlers, and 
 after having heanl the (Jovernor's commission rea<l, which 
 was done hy Captain (Jordon, of II. M. shij) Cormorant, 
 then in the harbor, we {^ave three liritish cheers fur the (iov- 
 ernor, and then dispersed. There heino;, then, no <^overn- 
 inent House, the (tovernor took up his abode in the Fort, in 
 a room provided for him. The (iovernor, according to his 
 iiistrui-'tions, formed a Legislative Council of three members, 
 old, retired servants of the Company, induced to settle on the 
 island. One of the conditions of settlini; the island was that 
 tlie Company woidd import settlers from Knghmd, sell t'lem 
 land there in England at £1 per acre and take out laborers 
 with them, j)ay their e.\j)enses out, and a map having been 
 prepared for the purp(>se and exhibited in the Hudson Ray 
 House ill London, on whi?h they were to select their loca- 
 tions. Only one settler, a Captain (irant, took up land in 
 this way, selected a locatici on Sooke Hariior, took out eight 
 men with him and paid their expenses. On his arrival he 
 found the country different from what he expected, being 
 
rw 
 
 24 
 
 thickly wooded and very fxpeii.-ivc to dear, and l)efore lie 
 could estaMisli liiniself properly, payinir all preliminary ex- 
 penses, he found his funds ^one and irave up the attempt as 
 impracticahle. At this time the Company had reserved all 
 the land within ten mile.s of the fort for theiuselvet--, so that 
 incoming settlers had to n;o heyoiid this area for locations. 
 As a matter of course, no one knowing Hie circumstances, 
 witli wild savages to contend with, would take up land for 
 settlement. The agents of the Company on tne spot seeiiig 
 this, and knowing the Company would forfeit the grant of 
 the island unless they would form settlements on it satisfac- 
 tory to the government, within five years represented the 
 state of affairs to the Comjiany in London. An order was 
 then sent to sell land in Victoria, Es(|uimalt, Saanich and 
 Metchosin Districts, only reserving certain farms theii in 
 cultivation in Victoria and Esquinndt districts, an<l no 
 settlen? with the former reservation taken off, could he found 
 to take up land when it was offered on the American side 
 for one dollar per acre. 
 
 The Company, in order to y)reserve the grant of the 
 island from the fJrovvfi, induced their ottieers to purchase 
 latul and estaldisli fnrms l»y getting lahorers to wji»rk them on 
 half shares. In this way Mr. Douglas, myself, the late Mr- 
 Work, and several others, Ixuight laiul at $5 per acre, as near 
 the fort as the reservations would permit, and in this way 
 settlements were formed and the conditions of the grant of 
 the island from tlk oiown complied with. 
 
 In 1851, the Company sent out two ships with lahorers 
 to work farms they had estahlished in Victoria and Esfjui- 
 
■ ! 
 
 i 
 
 25 
 
 malt Districts, with bsiliffs to carry tlieiu on. The iiiost of 
 tliese hiborers on arrivnl liavian- taken tlic California oohl 
 fcvor, as it was called, de- rted thirlier, ajid the consequence 
 was that farniino; draf^-oed it slow lencrth alouf for years. 
 Governor Hlanchard this year finding hut few peo[)le to 
 govern except the Conipany'si peopk', wlio looked more to the 
 Company's officers, with wliom tliey had to deal, tlian to the 
 Governor, the latter got disgusted with the state of affairs 
 and left for England, leaving Mr. Douglas, then senior mem- 
 ber of the Legislative Council, to act as (xovenior. Mr, 
 Douglas was then appointed Governor of the island by the 
 Home Government, and I was apj)ointed hy him a member 
 of the Legislative Council, mv commission as such haviiuj- 
 been signed by the Queen, this year. In LSoO 1 received my 
 c(jmmission as Chief Trader, alter thirteen years of hard 
 service, which added considerably to my inconu'. and in 1859 
 received my commission as Chief Factor. In 1849, I irot 
 married here by the Rev. ]\rr. vStaiW our Chaplain. Now 
 that I have brought the principal occurrences here formed 
 from the estal)lislniieiir of the fort t(j this dati', the rest can 
 be gU>aned from tin- pul)lic reooi-ds ut the (ioveruuu'ut offices. 
 The Comj)any, about this time, got a portion of the farm 
 round the fort surveyed I)y Mr Pemberton, tin- surveyor, 
 into town lots, which were sold from time to tiine to various 
 purcahcrs at $r>{) jht lot. until the Kra-er River Cold excite- 
 nu'iit took place, in ISoS, wh. n tiu- pi-ict' \va^ raised consid- 
 erably, according to location, jiml tlnis commenced the 
 building of the City r,f N'ictoria in earnest, pi-evions to this. 
 people felt donbtfid :)!>out its permanency. 
 
 MllCC 
 
 is: 
 
 have added to my land purchase.^, and having (deare(l. fenced, 
 
K«l 
 
 26 
 
 drained and improved it, I have been eaabled to lease it to 
 various parties, and received some returns from my outlay on 
 it. In 1861 I got leave of absence from the Company to 
 visit my parents, and found them alive and well, after an 
 absence of twenty-five years from them, and th'3 following 
 year I was informed of their death. On my ret irn here, I 
 was appointed, at my own request, in 1862, to superintend 
 the Company's affairs in the interior of the country, and re 
 mained in this position until 1872, when I retired from the 
 service and since then remained at home, looking after my 
 private affairs. 
 
 Such is a brief history of my career since I began to 
 work out my own way in life. I visited ray native country, 
 Scotland, four different time j, and took some members of 
 my family with me to eee the old country, and made several 
 trips to Eastern Canada since my retirement from active 
 service with the Hudson Bay Company. 
 
 I 
 
 1 I 
 
 \ 
 
 HH 
 
27 
 
 In the year 1811^ Fort Astoria was built by the party- 
 sent out from New York by John Jacob Astor to carry on 
 the fur tradi on the Coast. 
 
 In the year 18H, or 1813 Fort Astoria was given up 
 to the Nortli "West Company of Montreal, which was sold by 
 Astor's agent to the agents of that Company. 
 
 In the year 1831, a coalition was formed between the 
 North West Company and the Hudson's Bay Company 
 which went under tlie natiie of the Hudson's Bay Company, 
 whose agents reside at Astoria. 
 
 In the year .1823, the Depot of the Company on the 
 coast was removed from Astoria to Fort Vancouver on the 
 Columbia River. Astoria then became an outpost. Then a 
 large farm was commeTiced at Fort Vancouver. 
 
 In the year 183^, Fort Langley was built on the Fraser 
 River for trading purposes, where a farm was also opened. 
 
 In the year 1833, old Fort Simpson was built on the 
 Naas River on the coast, aftefwards removed to its present 
 site on the Chimsean Peninsula in 1834. 
 
 In the yeur 1834-, Fort McLoughlin was built for trad- 
 ing purposes, on Millbank Sound. 
 
 In 1839 or 1830, Fort Nisqually was built at the head 
 of Puget Sound, where a large farm was also opened. 
 
 The foregoing were the places occupied and settled upon 
 for trading and farming purposes^ in British Territory, 
 before Vancouver Island was made a colony in 1 849.