IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) / O '^iJ^ ^^ 1.0 I.I lis |3.2 iU ■ft lAO 2.5 2.2 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1 /s ^ 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation 4^ ^^ ■17 ^\ ^ "^^ ^^"^^ ^"^ talk alternately. At oL a baked loktoes and .3.'"' ?^"' ^^^'^ ^^^^ ^ steaming d°sh of face. COM ham ' saU beef ^r ?lrh "'^'^ "^^1'^' ^"^ P^^*^^ ^^ P^^^ collops. We Ml to VirTrf +1, perhaps a smoking mess of rare hot haye^g;erapStL^^^^ ^^^^'T' "^' ^^ °^"^^ ^' ^« ^^^ (we fire will huS^twm^eSlt T ^' ^"""^ ^' P°''^^^^ ^^^"t it. If the we all remark to Sfh otwTh?] -^ ^'^ ^"1*^ ^^"^^f"^" " ^t won't, ourselves with coTts and Hnf^? it's very cold, rub our hands, cove^ and read (^ovi^as aforlTiS ^"?/'? ^°^" ^^^^ *° ^oze. talk. K^n -._-_ ^^ ^vi,"ea as aioresaid), until dmner-^imA Af «„^ xu..' 22 American Notes !!^n ? ^l ''''^*'* P*^'.**" ^ ^^''^^ medicinaUy. We sit down at table Sr^mn^H T' ^JrT^"»y *han before^; p'rolong the meal wi?h a rather mouldy dessert of apples, grapes, and oranges; and drink our 7^\^^ brandy-and-water. The bottles and glaLs ere Su^n the table, and the oranges and so forth are rolling about accordinjto «^Hp ^"'L?"'* *^." '-^^P'^ ^*y' ^^«" ^^^ ^^^or comes aowrby special night y mvitation. to join our evening rubber: immediately on the irH'"'^^ ''\T^^ ^ P^'*y ^* ^^i«*' ^"d ^ it is a rough n^ht^S we take them At whist we remam with exemplary gravity (deductine h^ chfn 'n'J^^'^fr''.^^^ ' ^^^^' '"^ ^ sou'-west;r hat tied uS ^r thl^', .1 P'lot;coat: makinrr the ground wet where he stands By this time the card-pJaying is over, and the bottles and glassTs^e never JLto'b.T''T^^ ^°^ '""'T ^" ^^"^^^»' *^« captain (who ?nr fhe^n! i • ^"u"* ;^ "l'^^'" "*"* °^ humour) turns up his coat collar for the deck agam; shakes hands all round; and goes laughing outinto the weather as merrily as to a birthday party. ^ As to daily news, there is no dearth of that commodity This passenger is reportea to have lost fourteen pounds at vTnTet-un in the saloon yesterday; and that passenger drinks his bottle of cham £?ws Th" \fZ' '"^ ^° V .^°^^ '' (^^^ ^-'y - clerk)° noMy whTw^ pngineer has distinctly said that there never wZ XenT^Z^u^Ti ^^^t?f-?^d four good hands are ill, and ha^ SrieaL The !h^^^^^ ^^^ir ^"" °^ ^**^^' ^"^ ^» *h« cabins b^en founH ,lr?nt P^T^'k'^*''"^*/^ Swigging damaged whisky, has been found drunk; and has been played upon bv the fire-enmn/ inSi rnVr^"'- ^"/^^ t''^''^' ^^^' ^^"^" doC-^tSrs afvariou dmnar-tames, and go about with plasters in various places. The bake? ^ill. and so IS the pastry-cook. A new man. horribly indisposed has been required to fill the place of the latter officer; aSS been propped and jammed up with empty casks in a little houS u^n deck and conimanded to roll out pie-crust, which he protest (S S'^^'^-^^'V* ' w>f' ^ 1° ^^" '} ^°^^ ^'- ^^-«' A Teen miS D^^;^ .1 ?V ""^ *^^ '"*^'L^'* °^ *^^^^ ^"g^t incidents at sea. rumir r" ^;; ."^^ber and such topics as these, we were wi?h HffiW ^V^''^*^''*^ '"1° "^^^^^^ Harbour, on the fifteenth nX with little wind and a bright moon-indeed, we had made the Lirfit shin r*'[ ^^*^^"^^' ^"? P"t the pilot in c ,rge-when suddenly the ship struck upon a bank of mud. An imm Jiate rush on deck took m W^f '°"''"' '^" ''f' 7''' ^^^^^^d i" ^" i^^^t^nt; and for a few minutes we were m as lively a state of confusion as the greatest lov^ clstran" Tther tT '° ^^^; ^'^ r"^"^^^^' ^^ ^^^and wate^ casits. and other heavy matters, being all huddled together aft however^ to lighten her in the head, she was soon got ofr and af^; some driving on towards an uncomfortable line o^f ohtl^iXZ vx^mity naa Deen amiounced very early in the disaster by a loud cry American Notes ^q anchor in a Strang.. onSish S^f n "^ S- J"*''J' ** "^"PP^ co.!d recogni*. although there wafan?'»ntl^\"°'"''^'.°" **"<* stiLrtfar^e^rd ^b^^'atelrthl "'l"*"' ?" ">« "«'«• stoppage 01 the enehie whirh h^ < k^*^ , sudden and unexpected ear^injessantl/r rtny'1a^"tf :^S§ Thl l^f «,» °" ?s^nf rtUo'uxrth: r ^ '--^«""tg*titi°?L it?,*: stoke,f aL*3e" hremeS torn bXl"''"'' ^ "^^ ^"^ clustered together in a smoky^^^p Sut thrw^h'''' °"^ !'.;'' engme-room, comparing notes in whlperaAft^fi,^'^**'' °' .*''^ rockets and firin? siirnal »..n= in tv,. ^ ■7^*^'^ throwing up a few land, or at leaS ofSnlTHli,* l^P*?.' ^""^ ^^"^ f™-" the sound presenttng itseT ^ wi?H 7 " ",'*'""'* ^"^ °*^" »«" or over in case the tide were running n,,f if ^f^., ^^"^ heehng to remark how desneratelv^n^^ , lu^""^ "^"^^ '* ^^«« amusing one short mSe H^had Ld h^.T.^ *^^ ?T' P"«* ^^^«^« i^ during the whole voyage had been S^.' °".* ^'^"^ Liverpool, and boS;r;td*rres?rnf„h^u'i^rettS.^^/^^^^^^ bnnging with him a fnl*»raKKr +0I1 **''-"™^°' i^e otticer m command :sivfthe°^£S5S^?S^^^^^^^ had done anything but fraudrntt ^^^a W«e wav to'^Th'"""-"/ speciallv to decpiv*» fh^n- or,^ ^ "y luw d, nitie way mto the mist, Sfwe'fad anTh"^"- " "^' ^'»"* theUfplTe'tn'th'/^ori? ™ sot'i^oron the^itor;5t°;irthe.*° '^•,;^"* ^ ''""''•' *"«• ^" ^^.irntrttltiSS^^^^^^^^^ Eased by this rerort and hvff?» ™'I° '^ ^""'"^ *•>«'■ -boots, ebj.. weUedTfttTrtt ^t^S'^^t^^^ '''^ ^^ ^' ^^ I was dressing about half-past nine next dav wW t h. • u humed me on deck. When I hadWt i?ov"'i^kr'^!"..*'l^°°!f f*"™ ""u aamp, and there were bleak hills "ali" round "^sTNo^'we^S if t\ l5 24 American Notes gliding down a smooth, broad stream, at the rate of eleven miles an hour: our colmirs flying gaily; our crew rigged out in their smartest clothes; our officers in uniform again; the sun shining as on a brilliant ^P"\*?^y *" England; the land stretched out on either side, streaked witn light patches of snow; white wooden houses; people at their doors; telegraphs working; flags hoisted; wharfs appearinif ships- quays crowded with people; distant noises; shouts; men and boys running down steep places towards the pier: a)l more bright and sky and freshto our unused ej^es than words can paint them. We came to a wharf, paved with uplifted faces; got alongside, and were made fast, after some shouting and straining of cables; darted, a score of us along the gangway, almost as soon as it was thrust out to meet us and before it had reached the ship— and leaped upon the firm glad eartn again ! I suppose this Halifax would have appeared an Elysium, though it had been a curiosity of ugly dulness. But I carried away with me a most pleasant impression of the town and its inhabitants, and have preserved it to this hour. Nor was it without regret that I came home, without having found an opportunity of returning thither, and once more shaking hands with the friends I made that day It happened to be the opening of the Legislative Council and General Assembly, at which ceremonial the forms observed on the commencement of a new Session of Parliament in England were so closely copied, and so gravely presented on a small scale, that it was like looking at Westminster through the wrong end of a telescope The governor as her Majesty's representative, delivered what may be called the Speech from the Throne. He said what he had to sav manfully and well. The military band outside the building struck up God save the Queen " with great vigour before his Excellency had quite finished; the people shouted; the in's rubbed their hands- the out s shook their heads; the Government party said there never was such a good speech; the Opposition declared there never was such a bad one; the Speaker and members of the House of Assembly with- drew from the bar to say a great deal among themselves and do a little: and, in short, everything went on, and pron:ised to go on iust as It does at home upon th like occasions.^ The town is built on the side of a hill, the highest point being com- manded by a strong fortress, not yet quite finished. Several streets of good breadth and appearance extend from its summit to the water-side, and are intersected by cross streets running parallel with the nyer. The houses are chiefly of wood. The market is abundantly supplied; and provisions are exceedingly cheap. The weather being unusually mild at that time for the season of the year, there was no sleighmg: but there were plenty of those vehicles in yards and by- places, and some of them, from the gorgeous quality of their decora- tions, might have " gone on" without alteration as triumphal cars in a melodrama at Astley's. The day was uncommonly fine- the air Q idim iieditiixUi, me vvnuit; uspcct oi tne town cheerful American Notes 2^? thriving, and industrious. *^ len^tl^hlv'nrcol^^^^^^^^ -^ -^^-^« the mails. At two or three choice spirits who hf ^L^ T"" P^^^^ngers (including and champagne^rr^jfu^nd ?y^gTn?^^^^^^^^ - » oT£?^Sr ' ^^^ -^^-^ were^gr;^.^^n\^^t„^^^^^^^^ ^ "s??^' tumS^Slel"^^^^^^^^^^ ^X^^yoi Fundy. we On the next afternoon that fs?oii. ?^* ^"^ ^" "^^^^ ^^y. secondof January an American^^Lu^^ T ^^t^^^^y. the twentir- afterwards the BriSnnS sSlm^n^^^^^^^ ^"d soon days out. was telegraph^ at Cton ' ' '"^ ^'"'^°°^' ^^^^^^^^ The indescribable interest with which I sfrpin^,i r^ first patches of American soil Deeo^d h J m^f k n T^ ^^^^^ ^^ ^^^ sea. and followed them L thev sweltn k "^^^^^^^^^om the green ceptible degrees, into a'L'n^TnuTuf iLVcLT'c^T' T^^^^ exaggerated. A sharp keen wind blew dT^H L. !' ^ ^^''^^^^ ^ prevailed on shore; and the S was most tvf^rv^^^^^ ^^'^ ^^°^* mtensely clear, and drv and bri^hf ^hll fu I ^* ^he an- was so only endurable, but delkious ^ ' ^* *^' temperature was not sideTheVoXi^nd\r Th'^^^^^^^^^ "^^' ^^'^ - — along- should have had them^Sopen ^nd ^ll?-^^^ ^ ^'^"'^ ^ -are topics which I will ™Drolon;Th1,! **".^w*^rea i , at hazard, that made me sTS" *^' ^^'*""' ^^th an amount of surprise it Lthi'nrt.^?.l°.^^^^^^^^^^^^ "No; I would rather hav. K.,.. ^, ,v -•- •"^- J^ i"tc it very much " At th.s. I reaily thought the waiteYmust have gone out of his mind: SS6 American Notes as I believe he would have done, but for the interposition of another man, who whispered in his ear, "Directly." "Well! and that's a fact!" said the waiter, looking helplesslv at me: "Right away." & f y »■ I saw now that "Right away" and "Directly" were one and the same thing. So I reversed my previous answer, and sat down to dinner in ten minutes aftenvards; and a capital dinner it was. The hotel (a very excellent one) is called the Tremont House. It has more galleries, colonnades, piazzas, and passages than I can remember, or the reader would believe. CHAPTER III BOSTON In all the public establishments of America, the utmost courtesy prevails. Most of our Departments are susceptible of considerable improvement in this respect, but the Custom-house above all others would do well to take example from the United States and render it- self somewhat less odious and offensive to foreigners. The servile rapacity of the French off ;ials is sufficiently contemptible; but there is a surly boorish incivility about our men, alike disgusting to all per- sons who fall into their hands, and discreditable to the nation that keeps such ill-conditioned curs snarling about its gates. When I landed in America, I could not help bemg strongly im- pressed with the contrast their Custom-house presented, and the attention, politeness and good humour with which its officers dis- charged their duty. As we did not land at Boston, in consequence of some detention at the wharf, until after dark, I received my first imprejsions of the city m walking down to the Custom-house on the morning after our arrival which was Sunday. I am afraid to say, by the way. how many offers of pews and seats in church for that morning were made ,o us, by formal note of invitation, before we had half finished our first dinner in America, but if I may be allowed to make a moderate guess without going into nicer calculation, I should say that at least as many sittings were proffered us, as would have accommodated a score or two of grown-up families. The number of creeds and forms of religion to which the pleasure of our company was requested, was in very fair proportion. Not being able, in the absence of any change of clothes, to go to church that day, we were compelled to decline these kindnesses, one and all; and I was reluctantly obliged to forego the delight of hearing Dr. Channing, who happened to preach that morning for the first time in. a very long interval. I mention the name of this distinguished American Notes 27 «?.^nTS"'P^''^^'^ '^^'^ ^r^^ ^^°"^ I ^o" afterwards had the pleas- ure of becoming personally acquainted), that I may have the cStm St Zh "u^:-^""^ tny humble tribute of admiration and respfct o^ tt^i l^'^'*'^' ^""^ character; and for the bold philanthronv w th it^l^lLTJy^'''''''' '^"^^^" '^ ^^^* --* hid'eous b&ru'l To return to Boston. When I got into the streets upon this Sundav mornmg the an- was so clear, the houses wc-2 so br?ht and gav the signboards were painted in such gaudy colours; the ^Ided letter! were so very golden; the bricks were so very red Xltone wnl ^^ very white, the blinds and area railings w?re so ver^ Zen t£ knobs and plates upon the street doSrs so marvelSuSv briS? and twinkling; and all so slight and unsubstantial L appeLancf^ that every thoroughfare in the city looked exactly like a scene inl^ pantomime. It rarely happens in the business stre^ets that a ?rades T^;^ei^^l "'°'r '^'^" t^y^^^y ^ tradesman, where eve^body IS a merchant, resides above his store; so that many occupations are often carried on m one house, and the whole front is covered with boards and mscnptions. As I walked along. I kept glancLf up It these boards, confidently expecting to see a few of them chang^hito something; and I never turned a corner suddenly without SfnVou? for the clown and pantaloon, who. I had no doubt, were hTding^n a doorway or behind some pillar close at hand. As io HarleS Sid Columbme I discovered immediately that they lodged (thev ar^ always lookmg after lodgings in a pantomime) at^a very small c^ock maker s one story high, near the hotel; which in adSn^o vaSs synibols and devices, almost covering the whole front had ISea? dial hanging out-to be jumped through, of course. ^^^ ^ g^^^t th JcftfTh^. f f ' '* P""?^^ u' ^"^^^ "^^"^ unsubstantial-looking than the city. The white wooden houses (so white that it makes one win V to look at them), with their green jalousie blinds are sTsorinlded .^^ dropped about in all directions, without seeming to have an^^^^^^^ all in the ground; and the small churches and chlpels are so Drim .nH bright and highly varnished; that I almost beire^ed ?S who"ealSr Stt'bt'^''" "P P^^^^"^^^^ ^^^^ ^ ^^^^^'« *-y' and^'rtimetinfo a _ The city is a beautiful one. and cannot fail. I should ima^*n*> +^ ITforthe'r^'^r^T^ favourably. The private dweirgTouses and the n,X K ^fT*' ^^T ^"^ "^"^^^^^ the shops extremely good the s^f^mit of . hJ f '" V ^''^'°"'"- "^^' ^^^' H°"«« i« bu/t upon "le summit ot a hill, which rises graduallv at fir«+ nnH o*+«, j by a steep ascent, almost from thfwater's edee In frontt Z"^^"*^' enclosure, called the Common. The slle Is beautTful an^^^^^^^^ inoH 1 ^ 'hJT'^^^ panoramic view of the whole towran?nS4bour L'nL'rlfharbe^ com„,odio,s offices. ftlntLCwo State Zh 'w^/i;J!?„°/i^?^ .?°"«^. of_ Representatives of the PQ T eo,7"K * '-'""""S^- "i Liiu otner. tne benate. Such proceedinPQ as I .aw here, were conducted with perfect gravity and decorum! 28 American Notes Thlf • ^^?*^u?ll"^^*''^ *° ^'P^« attention and respect. There IS no doubt that much of the intellectual refinement and superiority of Boston, is referable to the quiet influence of the Unf versity of Cambridge, which is within three or four Ss of the c^^' The resident professors at that university are gentlemen of learni^; and varied attainments; and are. without one ex?ept rtLf I can cal! to mmd. men who would shed a grace upon, and do honour to anv society in the civilised world. Many of the resident gen?^in Boston and Its neighbourhood, and I think I am not mistaken ^ addhS a large majority of those who are attached to the liberal professSns there, have been educated at this same school. Whatever the defects of American universities may be. they disseminate no prejudfces rear no bigots; dig up the buried ashes of no old superstitions neverlnter nose between the people and their improvement; exclude To man because of his religious opinions; above%:ii. in their whole cours^o^ Z"Jnrti:tn:T^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^ --''' -^ ^ ^-^^ one%:^o? lyinl It was a source of inexpressible pleasure to me to observe th^ almost imperceptible, but not less certain effect, wrough^^^^^^^^ tWs institution among the small community of Boston- and to note a? every turn the humanising tastes and desires it has engendered the affectionate friendships to which it has given rise- the amount of vanity and prejudice it has dispelled. The folden calf they irsWp at Boston IS a pigmy compared with the gilnt efii^ies set uD^n nfh^r parts of that vast counting-house which lies beyofd the AtlLtic and the almighty dollar sinks into something compStelv instnm^ant amidst a whole Pantheon of better gods. P^'^'^^^^y insignificant. Above all. I sincerely believe that the public instifii+inn« o«^ chanties of this capital of Massachusetts are L neLrp^rfe^rL most considerate wisdom, benevolence, and humanity can r^ake them. I never m my life was more affected by the contemplation of happmess under circumstances of privation and berefvement than in my visits to these establishments cavemeni, tnan f hif fh^ ^^^^ ^-^^ P^^^'^""* ^^^^"'^^ °^ ^" «"^h institutions in America that they are either supported by the Stato or assisted by the S-ate' concert w1t\"ft'' '""f ""' "^'?"? ''' ""''P'^^ ^^^d) thatVhey act S concert with it and are emphatically the people's I cannot h„t think, with a view to the principle and its tendency to devate or depress the character of the industrious classes, that ^Public Charitv is immeasurably better than a Private Foundation n^^o+rT^ munificently the latter nxay be end^tl'd'^our own co^^L^r^ It has not. until within these later days, been a very populaVfaThfon with governments to display any extraordinary reg^a?dTr the Sea? mass of the people or to recognise their exi4en?ns improSwe creatures, private charities, unexampled in the history o??he eirth have ansjn. to do an incalculable amount of good amon^the desti t.t. and afflicted But the government of the c^n^r^ h^l^'n^ LI^^^ act nor part m them, is not in the receipt of any portion ofthe"' lot* grati- American Notes 20 tude they inspire; and, offering very little shelter or r«i,-«f k^ ^ ^^ which is to be found in the workhouse AnHfw m I ^^ ^Yond that naturally, to be looked upr by t^e poor rat w' ^ 'r^' "°* "^* quick to correct and punish than a^^fn/ ! f ^ ^^^"^ ^^^t^^"' vigilant in their hour oWd ""^ protector. merciful and tJ^lZ^^^^'nt^ittZe- STh?reS's^oYtr^^^ ^""^^^*^^ ^3^ in Doctors' Commons canbundantK nrote 9 ^- '°^^*^^^ old gentleman or lady, surrounded byL^^^^^^^^^^ "^^ low average, a will a-week. The old gTnttman or iJ^"" "^°'' ^ remarkable in the best of times for go^od tem^^^^ fufenT ''''? pams from head to foot- full of fanr,-^= orT^^ ' ^ i °^ ^^^^^ ^^^ distrust, suspicion, and dishL T^cTncei^^^^^^^^ f,"» °f «Pleen, ones, is at last the sole business of such I 1171'.^'''^.'"'^^"^ "^^^ relations and friends (somrorwLm hp^L t*^';' ^^^^t^nce; and inherit a large share Tthf ^rorrtvL^T.v^^^^ cradles speallly disqualified fZ^dev^otfn"^^^^^^^^ ^^^ pursuit, on that account) arp sn off«« ^^a ''"'^"^seives to any useful farily cut off, ^^relru^^^:Si:^ ^'^^^^^'^^^^'^ ^^'^- family, down to the remote t cousin is keot in ? r,^;^!l w° '^''°'^ length it becomes plain that th^ o Hii/ '^ "Perpetual fever. At to live; and the plaLrtWsl^c'T ^. *e"n,°;fckX"he:Mrd °"« gentleman perceives that evervhnri,r Li^ cieariy the old lady or poor old dying reUtivf whSe the oM T'^^^''^ .^^^^'"^ ^^^^ another last will-podiivdrt^^^^^^^^^^ tl^^ °^ gentleman makes in a china teapot, and expirWnLr?J Th t^ ^^^ «^°^e whole of the rL and peTsS eTal'fs^div^^^^^^^^ chanties; and that the deadanH anr,^ +^ot V u "\^^®®^ half-a-dozen to do a great deal of good at th^^^^^^ '"^ ^"'' '^'^^ ^^^^^ passion Ind misery ^ ' ^°'* ""^ ^"^ immense amount of evil at'btt'^n.'S^'^p^^^^^^^^^^ for the Blind, annual report to^tL corpo^^^^^^^ Thf ^ ^^- *'".'l','' ^^° "^^^e an are admitted gratuitousl? Thot^V^^^^ mdigent blind of that state necticut. or fr^ the states I? M.W adjoining state of Con- are admitted by a warrant from^l!; T^f °"^ ?^ ^^^ Hampshire, belong; or. failW Tha" multTnH ? . "^^'"^ ^^^^ respectively the payment of about Wnf '^5""^*^ ^"'^"^S ^^^^ fiends, for boar^Ind l^stlttanT^e'n^rtSf^^^^^^^^ f^ ^^^^^ hTw^r s^:- ;t,-^^^^^^^^ eaTh^pi^i;: exceed tw^offars per wLk^ T^ ^^ ^^^ ^°^^' ^^^^^ will Jot English; "and he wm be crldSd^^fWK^ ""^"^ *^^" ^^^^t shUlings state, or by his friend. p^S^k u-^^ t^^e amount paid for him by the of th; stocl wh/cHf uses s^^^^^^ ""^^ ""^ ^^^ ^^^ <^o«t " week will be his own Bribe thtdvl^^^^^^^ °"\^°"^^ P«- earnings will mnr. fKo^ ^1.^^^ ^^^ ^^ '^^^f ^. known whether his si>ou,d:hewillhave7tTtSoptrt^^feri^:L^t''rii'e^^ if! 30 American Notes mgs, or not. Those who prove unable to earn their own livelihood will not be letained; as it is not desirable to convert the establishment mto an almshouse, or to retain any but working bees in the hive Those who by physical or mental imbecility are disqualified from work, are thereby disqualified from being members of an industrious community; and they can be better provided for in establishments ntted for the mfirm. • I went to see this place one very fine winter morning: an Italian sky above, and the air so clear and bright on every side, that even mv eyes, which are none of the best, could follow the minute lines and scraps of tracery in distant buildings. Like most other publi- institu- tions m America, of the same class, it stands a mile or two without the town, in a cheerful healthy spoi and is an airy, spacious hand- some edifice. It IS built upon a height, commanding the harbour When I paused for a moment at the door, and marked how fresh and free the whole scene was— what sparkling bubbles glanced upon the waves, and welled up every moment to the surface, as though the world below, like that above. wer« radiant with the bright day and gushing over m its fulness of light: when I gazed from sail to sail away upon a ship at sea, a tiny speck of shining white, the only cloud upon the still deep, distant blue— and. turning, saw a blind boy with his sightless face addressed that way. as though he too had some sense withm him of the glorious distance: I felt a kind of sorrow that the place should be so very light, and a strange wish thflt for his sake It were darker. It was but momentary, of course, and a mere fancy, but I felt it keenly for all that. ^ The children were at their daily tasks in different rooms, except a few who were already dismissed, and were at play. Here, as in many institutions, no uniform is worn; and I was very glad of it for two reasons. Firstly, because I am sure that nothing but senseless custom and want of thought would reconcile us to the liveries and badges we are so fond of at home. Secondly, because the absence of these things presents each child to the visitor in his or her own proper character with Its mdividuality unimpaired; not lost in a dull. ugly, monoton- ous repetition of the same unmeaning garl}: which is really an im- portant consideration. The wisdom of encouraging a little harmless pnde m personal appearance eve i among the blind, or the whimsical absurdity of considering charity and leather breeches inseparable companions, as we do. requires no comment. Good order, cleanliness, and comfort, pervaded every corner of the building. The various classes, who were gathered round their teachers answered the questions put to them with readiness and intelligence' and m a spirit of cheerful contest for precedence which pleased me very much. Those who were at play, were gleesome and noisy as other children. More spiritual and affectionate friendships appeared to exist among them, than would be found among other young persons suffer- ing under no deprivation: but this I exnentpH anH wac r^r-^^^^^A 4.^ hnd. It is a part of the great scheme of Heaven's merciful considera- American Notes 5X tion for the afflicted. In a portion of the building, set apart for that purpose, are work- shops for bhnd persons whose education is finished, and who have acquured a trade, but who cannot pursue it in an ordinary manu- factory because of their deprivation. Several people were at work here; making brushes, mattresses, and so forth; and the cheerf-ilness mdustry. and good order discernible in every other part of the build- mg. extended to this department also. On the ringing of a bell, the pupils all repaired, without any guide or leader, to a spacious music-hall, where they took their seats in an orchestra erected for that purpose, and listened with manifest delight to a voluntary on the organ, played by one of themselves. At its con- clusion the performer, a boy of nineteen or twenty, gave place to a gu-1; and to her accompaniment they all sang a hymn, and afterwards ?u u°!,? "'''• i* ^^^ ""^"^ ^^^ *° ^°«k "Pon and hear them, happy though their condition unquestionably was; and I saw that one blind girl, who (being for the time deprived of the use of her limbs, by Illness) sat close beside me with her face towards them, wept silently the while she listened. ^ It is strange to watch the faces of the blind, and see how free they are from all concealment of what is passing in their thoughts; observ- mg which a man with eyes may blush to contemplate the mask he wears Allowing for one shade of anxious expression which is never absent from their countenances, and the like of which we may readilv detect in our own faces if we try to feel our way in the dark, every Idea, as ic rises within therji, is expressed with the lightning's speed and nature s truth If the company at a rout, or drawing-room at court, could only for one time be as unconscious of the eyes upon them as blind men and women are, what secrets would come out and what a worker of hypocrisy this sight, the loss of which we so liiuch pity, would appear to be ! a Sf W?nl^H°'r""!? ^° "^t ^i ^ '^* ^°^" ^" ^^°*^^^ ^«o°^. before t?^'ul ' ?^' ^""^ '^""'^' destitute of smell; and nearly so of taste: before a fair young creature with every liuman. faculty, and hope and power of goodness and affection, inclosed within her deli- cate irame and but one outward sense— the sense of touch. There ? anf ;.^ '?rT; ^""^^ "P- ^' '^ ^"""' ^" ^ "^^^b^^ ce». impervious t any ray of light, or particle of sound; with her poor white hand peeping through a chink in the wall, beckoning to some good man for help, that an Immortal soul might be awakened radinnf ^H?""-^ I n''^^^ ""P"" ^^^' *^^ ^^^P ^^^ ^''^^^- Her face was radiant with intelligence and pleasure. Her hair, braided by her own d^v.l' ^^%b°""d about a head, whose intellectual capacity and Its bio^r"'' T' ^^f ^^i?"y expressed in its graceful outlinJ. aSd ts broad open brow; her dress, arranged by herfelf. was a pattern of neatness and simplicity; the work she had knitted, lav h««,d« w 1,°. rSn'^J"'^''"!^ "^^ """ ^^^ ^^"^ '^^ ^^^"^d upon.-Fr(;m~the mournful rum of such bereavement, there had slowly risen up this gentle 32 f 1 American Notes tender, guileless, grateful-hearted beinR roi-.;S\:r'e;eUdrrdoiVst\'Xres^^^ ^ '^'^''^ """- "-d I took it up. and saw ttot she had ^,H '*^"°" "I^" the ground. wore hersel?. and fastened ittoufitTmtt^eT """' '"^•' ^' ^'"' for^t ^XZ^'l^t:Z;j:f^^^-^^^ and engaged in an animated commun^lZn fu'"^ *^^ '"'"•^""^ ^i-e beside her. This was a JavourTte SeSwi^i' th^ .'""'""^ ^">° »* couM s. the face of her fair instructor shfw^JlKt^^rieJ'iet -^'o'Z:ZTtt:n^;^Z'^^^^^^!l^^ °'^l^ history, from an .3 a^ver, heautifu. Ind tou?hln7n"artarera„7^^^^^^^ Ha|rpsh^roL%'hrt'^e^i^irof";fetj£.'TSo%h^^^ half old that her parenis K? S^d to re^ hlr Ih"^ "^ ^T '""' ^ severe fits, which seemed to rack Tct Lm^^ 1 S^" ™^ ^"''J«<=t *» of endurance: and life was held bvtl^fc k "* I* "^y""* "^■' ?»«■«■• year and a half old, shriemed^o t»n iJ''^ *^""«- >"■* "hen a "^^h:^hTr'm1„\T'^'""*~ deve'io^dlLmsdtrr^Tdu^nr.rr ^"^ '° *^^^^^ she enlcTyed, she appir?(makr/d^f.\n " ™''?' °' health which stpl^-tetrnd— o^^S^SF^'^^^^^^^^^ and hearing wer^^ne for ^ve? The no^rth'Sf ^ S"**"""^" ^«" ended. The fever rtged durinT..™!,'^ . } s suffenngs were not kept in bed in a S^keJSr^lZZ^l^^l^'Jr "r*"^ ^"^ -"« unsupported, and two years tefor-^hl ^i^ 1°" *^ <=°"'1<* "alk now observed that her sense n?«m^n ?",''' "" "P ^" "^ay- " was and consequently, h"tTert::rrsmtl'ZnO^^^^^^^ heaihItm?d^:stred"/dX wal^^f*"? *■>" ^^ child's bodily ticeship of 'ife and the worid ^"^ *° '"*"■ "P°° "er appren- theTomb"w:re"a;^„T]trTo ^StJ^^ darkness and the sUence of ing smUe, no father°sTOTce taS^SrtT'^fl'^'i-°'^h her answer- brothers and siste-s weie hnf ^„! ^ ^ '™*^** his sounds:_they, touch but whicfdird" oUromThe L'^"?„"romfhr ^*^'' "^^ warmth, and in the now«»r r^f i/^ i^ ^iture ot the house, save in resi«cts'fromthedo7an7the°'cir'"°*'°"' ''"^ °°* «™" '^ *hese at the imu^ortal spirit which had been implanted within her American Notes wi?h the form, density weieht ^nHhi * f *' ""= ^"""^^ 'f'^'""'" lay her hands uponlLToufJed^t t he°/ SeulJ^^Vanr ""} arms, as she was occupied about the hou^ anH hH a "S^ ^"'^ sralittTe"! a'^d t*o° ^^ ^'y*'''". SAt^'ve^ttS t'o" tuJt: M''Tomlr:ttg":^rhe'r ^etr^^' *''^,* *« "P"- that the moral efiects of L7^et^LJ^S!<- ^' T^ '""'*^<^: ^"d Those who cannot be enliehLrrt J™ 1 '°°" ""^^an to appear. by force; and this, coupfedt H^her Llf °riva«L°°'^ "! ^°"*^°"= formed figure- a stronrfj^marl!!^ ^°"°"^ ''«'■ "'th a well- a large an^ biutif'uuTl^ap^edtadSh^^^^^^^^ temperament; action. The parents were eLi^taduced to c"nsentTo h^^^ ^" "'"'l^ Boston, and on the ith of o/i-nho, .0 consent to her commg to Institution. * October, 1837, they brought her to the tw7,^Lu uSltheraretco'::S?e7'''-r'. '''" -'''*»S -"out somewhat familiar wittthTinmrte" the a«emn[ Z"^ '"'f'^' ^"'^ her knowledge of arbitrary «^= k„ v, v ^P* ^^^ "^^^^ to ^ive thoughts with others ^ * ' '^ '^'"'"' *« """^^ interch^ge bund'uTaTngu\V'of™grnn*t°he'"h''°P*fl^'*^^ *° 80 on to -ts?^td^:=^a¥ 9?-p^^ and the mode and cnnriiti/,1^ „* express her idea of the existence, would have beereasy bu? ve/yTnfs"?' ?*5'3',«>ing. The formed difficult, but, if Lc'oSplSLer7e^ efiectTal 1 1"''" ''r^" '"'^ to try the latter. ^ enectual. I determmej therefore use!?u'ch'^t\nTes1:rt IZnTv' \'^''"'« ^^«^'- '" ^■"'"on labels with thei names nrin'l^H.'; ^"r"'/,"- ^"'' "' ^ting upon them carefully, and soon of cm ?,f h" k""''" • u"*.*""' ^"'^ ^^e felt very spoo « differed Ts much fmm /h!'"®'"?''f , *'"" *'^^ "°"''^d line^ dm-ered from the keyTform °°''"' ""'^ * ^^-^ ^^ '^^ ^P°°» the'^':"errpu"i'„tohe?hifdfa„"d'*h *'^ ^^T '^'^^ P""*^'' "P- — •.- •, ,,'^ " "^^ nanas. and she .•so'^n r>Ksof,r«^ 4-v,--^ -^i- aixiiijar to the onp«? npQf<:^H /^r, +1,^ x.- i ~ "i^C, "'"^"^ ^'-^^ i^"car she has attained great dexterity in the use of the manual alphaljet of the deaf mutes; and she spells out the words and sentences which she knows, so fast and so deftly, that only those accustomed to this language can follow with the eye the rapid motions of her fingers. " 'But wonderful as is the rapidity with which she writes her thoughts upon the air, still more so is the ease and accuracy with which she reads the words thus written by another; grasping their hands in hers, and following every movement of their fingers, as letter after letter conveys their meaning to her mind. It is in this way that she converses with h'^r blind playmates, and nothing can more forcibly show the power of mind in forcing matter to its pur- pose than a meeting between them. For if great talent and skill are necessary for two pantomimes to paint their thoughts and feelings by the movements of the body, and the expression of the counte- nance, how much greater the difficulty when darkness shrouds them both, and the one can hear no sound. " 'When Lciura is walking through a passage-way, with her hands spread before her, she knows instantly every one she meets, and passes them with a sign of recognition: but if it be a girl of her own age, and especially if it be one of her favourites, there is instantly a bright smile of recognition, a twining of arms, a grasping cf hands, and a swift telegraphing upon the tiny fingers; whose rapid evolu- tions convey the thoughts and feelings from the outposts of one mind to those of the other. There are questions and answers, ex- changeo of joy or sorrow, there are kissings and partings, just as between little children with all their senses.' "During this year, and six months after she had left home, her mother came to visit her, and the scene of their meeting was an interesting one. "The mother stood some time, gazing ^ith overflowing eyes upon her unfortunate child, who, all unconscious of her presence, was playing about the room. Presently Laura ran against her, and at once began feeling her hands, ex?<,mining. her dress, and trying to find out if she knew her; but not succeeding in this, she turned away as from a stranger, and the poor woman could not conceal the pang she felt, at finding that her beloved child did not know her. "She then gave Laura a string of beads which she i^sed to wear at home, which were recognised by the child at once, who, with much joy, put them around her neck, and sought me eagerly to say she understood the string was from her home. "The mother now sought to caress her, but poor Laura repelled her, preferring to be with her acquaintances. "Another article from home was now given her, and she began to look much interested; she examined the stranger much closer, and gave me to understand that she knew she came from Hanover; she even endured her caresses, but would leave her with indifference at the slightest signal. The distress of the mother was now painful American Notes 37 to behold; for, although she had feared that she should not be recognised, the painful reality of being treated with cold indifierence by a darling child, was too much for woman's nature to bear. "After a while, on the mother taking hold of her again, a vague idea seemed to flit across Laura's mind, that this could not be a stranger; she therefore felt her hands very eagerly, while her coun- tenance assumed an expression of intense interest; she became very pale; and then suddenly red; hope seemed struggling with doubt and anxiety, and never were contending emotions more strongly painted upon the human face: at this moment of painful uncertainty, the mother drew her close to her side, and kissed her fondly, when at once the truth flashed upon the child, and all mistrust and anxiety disappeared from her face, as with an expression of exceeding joy she eagerly nestled to the bosom of her parent, and yielded herself to her fond embraces. "After this, the beads were all unheeded; the playthings which were offered to her were utterly disregarded; her playmates, for whom but a moment before she gladly left the stranger, 'now vainly strove to pull her from her mother; and though she yielded her usual instantaneous obedience to my signal to follow me, it was evidently with painful reluctance. She clung close to me, as if bewildered and fearful; and when, after a moment, I took her to her mother, she sprang to her arms, and clung to her with eager joy. "The subsequent parting between them, showed alike the affection. the intelligence, and the resolution of the child. "Laura accompanied her mother to the door, clinging close to her all the way, until they arrived at the threshold, where she paused, and felt around, to ascert in who was near her. Perceiving the matron, of whom she is very fond, she grasped her with one hand, holding on convulsively to her mother with the other; and thus she stood for a moment; then she dropped her mother's hand; put her handkerchief to her eyes; and turning round, clung sobbing to the matron; while her mother departed, with emotions as deep as those of her child. "It has been remarked in former reports, that she can distinguish different degrees of intellect in others, and that she soon regarded, almost with contempt, a new-comer, when, after a few days, she discovered her weakness of mind. This unamiable part of her character has been more strongly developed during the past year. "She chooses for her friends and companions, those children who are intelligent, and can talk best with her; and she evidently dislikes to be with those who are deficient in intellect, unless, indeed, she can make them serve her purposes, which she is evidently inclined to do. She takes advantage of them, and makes them wait upon her, various ways shows her Saxon blood. "She is fond of having other children noticed and caressed by the i I i '. t; 38 American Notes I I teachers, and those whom she respects; but this must not be carried too far. or she becomes jealous. She wants to have her share, which If not the hon's, is the greater part; and if she does not get it. she savs' 'My mother will love me: b . ^ o^yi>, ';Her tendency tc imitation is so strong, that it leads her to actions which must be entirely incomprehensible to her. and which can give her no other pleasure than the gratification of an internal faculty She has been known to sit for half an hour, holding a book before her sightless eyes, and moving her lips, as she has observed seeing people do when reading. "She one day pretended that her doll was sick; and went through all the motions of tending it. and giving it medicine; she then put It carefully to bed. and placed a bottle of hot water to its feet, laugh- ing all the time most heartily. When I came home, she insisted upon my going to see it, and feel its pulse; and when I told her to put a blister on its back, she seemed to enjoy it amazingly, and almost screamed with delight. "Her social feelings, and her affections, are very strong; and when she is sitting at work, or at her studies, by the side of one of her little friends, she will break off from her task every few moments, to hug and kiss them with an earnestness and warmth that is touching to behold. ; ° "When left alone, she occupies and apparently amuses herself and seems quite contented; and so strong seems to be the natural tendency of thought to put on the garb of language, that she often solUoquizes m the finger language, slow and tedious as it is. But it is only when alone, that she is quiet: for if she becomes sensible of the presence of any one near her. she is restless until she can sit close beside them, hold their hand, and converse with them by signs 'In her intellectual character it is pleasing to observe an insatiable thirst for knowledge, and a quick perception of the relations of things In her moral character, it is beautiful to behold her continual glad- ness, her keen enjoyment of existence, her expansive love, her un- hesitating confidence, her sympathy with sufiEering. her conscientious- ness, truthfulness, and hopefulness." Such are a few fragments from the simple but most interesting and instructive history of Laura Bridgman. The name of her great benefactor and friend, who writes it. is Dr. Howe. There are not many persons. I hope and believe, who. after reading these passages can ever hear that name with indifference. A further account has been published by Dr. Howe, since the report from which I have just quoted. It describes her rapid mental growth and improvement during t ,velve months more, and brings her little history down to the end of last year. It is very remarkable that as we dream m words, and carry on imaginary conversations' in which we speak both for ourselves and for the shadows who appear to us m those visions of thp niahf cr» aha Vio^Mr^nr ^^ 1™ i finger alphabet m her sleep. And it has b^e^ ascertained that w^^n American Notes 39 her slumber is broken, and is much disturbed by dreams, she ex- presses her thoughts in an irregular and confused manner on her fingers: just as we should murmur and mutter them indistinctly, in the like circumstances. I turned over the leaves of her Diary, and found it written in a fair legible square hand, and expressed in terms which were quite intelligible without any explanation. On my saying that I should like to see her write again, the teacher who sat beside her, bade her, in their language, sign her name upon a slip of paper, twice or thrice. In doing so, I observed that she kept her left hand always touching, and following up, her right, in which, of course, she held the pen. No line was indicated by any contrivance, but she wrote straight and freely. She had, until now, been quite unconscious of the presence of visitors; but, having her hand placed in that of the gentleman who accompanied me, she immediately expressed his name upon her teacher's palm. Indeed her sense of touch is now so exquisite, that having been acquainted with a person once, she can recognise him or her after almost any interval. This gentleman had been in her company, I believe, but very seldom, and certainly had not seen her for many months. My hand she rejected at once, as she does that of any man who is a stranger to her. But she retained my wife's with evident pleasure, kissed her, and examined her dress with a girl's curiosity and interest. She was merry and cheerful, and showed much innocent playful- ness in her intercourse with her teacher. Her delight on recognising a favourite playfellow and companion — herself a blind girl — who silently, and with an equal enjoyment of the coming surprise, took a seat beside her, was beautiful to witness. It elicited from her at first, as other slight circumstances did twice or thrice during my visit, an uncouth noise which was rather painful to hear. But on her teacher touching her lips, she immediately desisted, and embraced her laughingly and affectionately. I had previously been into another chamber, where a number of blind boys were swinging, and climbing, and engaged in various sports. They all clamoured, as we entered, to the assistant-master, who accompanied us, "Look at me, Mr. Hart! Please, Mr, Hart, look at me!" evincing, I thought, even in this, an anxiety peculiar to their condition, that their little feats of agility should be seen. Among them was a small laughing fellow, who stood aloof, entertaining him- self with a gymnastic exercise for bringing the arms and chest into play; which he enjoyed mightily; especially when, in thrusting out his right arm, he brought it into contact with another boy. Like Laura Bridgman, this young child was deaf, and dumb, and blind. Dr. Howe's account of this pupil's first instruction is so very striking, and so intimately connected with Laura herself, that I cannot refrain from a short extract. I may premise that the poor boy's name is Oliver Caswell; that he is thirteen years of age; and 40 American Notes that he was in full possession of all his facultip., „n+n +1, four months old. He was then att;^rtiVK ^' x ^*^^ *^^^® ^^^^s and became deaf; in a few weeks mSe h^in J ''^'^'* ^''■"'' ^" ^°"^ ^^^^s showed his anxious Tei^e of ^T.{ 1^^' '" '''' "'°"*^^' dumb. He the lips of other^e'rsoTwhent^^^^ ,f - ^-"ng his hand upon his own ac ,f +^ "^ l- ^^^^^^S> and then putting the right posSioi ' ^' '^ *° ^'^"^" ^^"^^^^f that he had them if soon^'i: hette'rTd'r^^^^^^ ^^- «°-' "P-claimed itself as he could feel or smell in his new^loP..?^''T.'^^"'^^ °^ everything the register of furnace h.^ if. ^''-Z^'" '"'*^"^^' treading upon feel it.\nd soLdiso^er^d the w^^^^^^ and be|an^o upon the lower one- but this wJt^^ ^^ ?® ""PP^^ P^^te moved upon his face, he apZd hfs ToL^^^^^ ^°'' ^^?' «° ^^^^^ down and seemed ti discover that the/ wpI. !?-«"^' *^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^t^er. ^ "His signs were exprls:^ Yn^^^^^^^ f -etal. imitation) he had contrived wlr^ - i?" ^^ '"' ^^^"^t^ ^^ in. .0.4 Of his ^^^^s:^^^-^:^^ omiSd"' sev'er'a steprKrJo^' f ^' ^^ ^^^ ^ther cases, I menced at once with the /nVla^^^^^^^^^ before employed, and corn- articles having short names^such ?. l^^' ^^^'"§^' therefore, several Laura for an auxihar." Tsat IL .nTvl"^' T^' *^- ^^^ with upon one of them, and then wZ\T ^^^'""^ }'' ^^^^> Placed it He felt my hands 4erly w'hToth okT^nTot '^' ''''''' ' ^^• pr cess, he evidently tried to imTfi^^ .? ' ^"1? ^"^ "^^ repeating the a few minutes he coVtr ved toTef the^S°*'°"%°^ "^^ ^^S^^'- ^^ one hand, and holding out the oth.r h^%^ iT"" • ""^ ""^ ^"§^^^« ^ith ing most heartily wKe succeeded ? . r "^ '"^'^^^^ ^^^'^' ^^"S^" to agitation; and the two presented". ^ 7^' ^5^' interested even flushed and anxious! a7d W finlr^ T?"- ^' '• ^^*= ^"' ^^^^ ^^^ closely as to follow e^er^otion bft ^o iX?^ '"^ ^"1°"^ °"^^ «° them; while OHver stood attent^^^ h; J^^*^^ ,^^ ""^t to embarrass turued up. his le?t randgrasn^nri t-^'"^" ^^i^^' ^^^ f^^e every motion of my finSe?s h?.^^ i ' ^""^.^'^ "^^t held out: at tion; there was an LpSn of an^W ^^^^ ^tten- motions; then a smfle^came steal in /o.^ as he tried to imitate the so. and spread int^ a lo^s Wh^th ^' ^' ^!T^^^ ^^ ^^^^^ do felt me p^t his head ind La^ratlap hirr^'t^' succeeded, and and jump up and down^n her Joy ^ ^""^ ^^^'^'^y "P°° the back, seem"eVre[^;ir^t^\Ts ^u'c:!::^ .\^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^n hour, and ills attention then began to flna ' I^a r^ "' s»"""g approbation. *cn uegan to nag. and I commenced playing wit' pee years and in four weeks s, dumb. He often feeling then putting had them in ned itself as f everything eading upon id began to plate moved lying down o the other, s of metal. .1 language, perfect. faculty of as the wav- iilar one for gns and to ler cases, I and com- )re, several , and with I, placed it tters key. )eating the fingers. In ngers with em, laugh- ested even ' face was g ours so embarrass 3. his face Id out: at Jen atten- aitate the could do 3ded, and the back, lour, and robation. ing wit' American Notes 41 him. It was evident that in all this he had n erely been imitating the motions of my fingers, and placing his hand upon the key, cup, &c., as part of the process, without any perception of the relation between the sign and the object. "When he was tired with play I took him back to the table and he was quite ready to begin again his process of imitation. He'soon learned to make the letters for key, pen, pin ; and by having the object repeatedly placed in his hand, he at last perceived the relation I wished to establish between them. This was evident, because, when I made the letters p in, or p en, or c up, he would select the article. "The perception of this relation was not accompanied by that radiant flash of intelligence, and that glow of joy, which marked the delightfrl moment when Laura first perceived it. I then placed all the articles on the table, and going away a little distance with the children, placed Oliver's fingers in the positions to spell key, on which Laura went and brought the article: the little fellow seemed much amused by this, and looked very attentive and smiling. I then caused him to make the letters bread, and in an instant Laura went and brought him a piece: he smelled at it; put it to his lips; cocked up his head with a most knowing look; seemed to reflect a moment- and then laughed outright, as much as to say, 'Aha ! I understand now how something may be made out of this.' "It was now clear that he had the capacity and inclination to learn, that he was a proper subject for instruction, and needed only persevering attention. I therefore put him in the hands of an intelli- gent teacher, nothing doubting of his rapid progress." Well may this gentleman call that a delightful moment, in which some distant promise of her present state first gleamed upon the darkened mmd of Laura Bridgman. Throughout his life, the recollec- tion of that moment will be to him a source of pure, unfading happiness; nor will it shine less brightly on the evening of his davs of Noble Usefulness. The affection which exists between these two— the master and the pupil— is as far removed from all ordinary care and regard as +he curcumstances in which it has had its growth, are apart from the common occurrences of life. He is occupied now, in devising means of imparting to her. higher knowledge; and of conveying to her some adequate idea of the Great Creatoi of that universe in which, dark and silent and scentless though it be to her. she has such deep delight and glad enjoyment. Ye who have eyes and see not, and have ears and hear not; ye who are as the hypocrites of sad countenances, and disf.gure your faces tnat ye may seem unto men to fast; learn healthy cheerfulness, and mild contentment, from the deaf, and dumb, and blind! Self-elected saints with gloomy brows, this sightless, earless, voiceless child may teach you lessons you will do well to follow. Let that poor h?.rxd ^f hers he gently on your hearts; for there may be something in its heal- ing touch akm to that of the Great Master whose precepts you mis- 320* 42 American Notes construe, whose lessons you pervert, of whose charity and sympathy with all the world, not one among you in his daily practice knows as much as many of the worst among those fallen sinners, to whom you are liberal in nothing but the preachment of perdition ! As I rose to quit the room, a pretty little child of one of the attendants came running in to greet its father. For the moment, a child with eyes, among the sightless crowd, impressed me almost as painfully as the blind boy in the porch had done, two hours ago. Ah! how much brighter and more deeply blue, glowing and rich though it had been before, was the scene without, contrasting with the darkness of so many youthful lives within ! At South Boston, as it is called, in a situation excellently adapted for the purpose, several charitable institutions are clustered together. One of these, is the State Hospital for the insane; admirably con- ducted on those enlightened principles of conciliation and kindness, which twenty years ago would have been worse than heretical, and which have been acted upon with so much success in our own pauper Asylum at Hanwell. "Evince a desire to show some confidence, and repose some trust, even in mad people," said the resident physician, as we walked along the galleries, his patients flocking round us un- restrained. Of those who deny or doubt the wisdom of this maxim after witnessing its effects, if there be such people still alive, I can only say that I hope I may never be summoned as a Juryman on a Commission of Lunacy whereof they are the subjects; for I should certainly find them out of their senses, on such evidence alone. Each ward in this institution is shaped like a long gallery or hall, with the dormitories of the patients opening from it on either hand! Here they work, read, play at skittles, and other games; and wheii the weather does not admit of their taking exercise out of doors, pass the day together. In one of these rooms, seated, calmly, and quite as a matter of course, among a throng of mad-women, black and white, were the physician's wife and another lady, with a couple of children. These ladies were graceful and handsome; and it was not difficult to perceive at a glance that even their presence there, had a highly beneficial influence on the patients who were grouped about them. Leaning her head against the chimney-piece, with a great assump- tion of dignity and refinement of manner, sat an elderly female, in as many scraps of finery as Madge Wildfire herself. Her head in particular was so strewn with scraps of gauze and cotton and bits of paper, and had so many queer odds and ends stuck all about it, that it looked like a bird's-nest. She was radiant with imaginary jewels; wore a rich pair of undoubted gold spectacles; and gracefully dropped upon her lap, as we approached, a very old greasy news- paper, in which I dare say she had been reading an account of her own presentation at some Foreign Court. I have been thus particular in describing her, because she will serve to the conl "This the fant by the s lady is 1 else has i mcongn I Ever) la knife i I manner J meal, m [from cu is reduc of restra more ef cuffs, tl I since thi In th( [the tool I on the fc [they wa I carriage sewing s passes I isane ass its proc( would o" American Notes 43 serve to exemplify the physician's manner of acquiring and retaining the confidence of his patients. "This," he said aloud, taking me by the hand, and advancing to the fantastic figure with great politeness — not raising her suspicions by the slightest look or whisper, or any kind of aside, to me: "This lady is the hostess of this mansion, sir. It belongs to her. Nobody else has anything whatever to do with it. It is a large establishment, as you see, and requires a great number of attendants. She lives, you observe, in the very first style. She is kind enough to receive my visits, and to permit my wife and family to reside here; for which it is hardly necessary to say, we are much indebted to her. She is exceedingly courteous, you perceive," on this hint she bowed con- descendingly, "and will permit me to have the pleasure of intro- ducing you: a gentleman from England, Ma'am: newly arrived from England, after a very tempestuous passage: Mr. Dickens, — the lady of the house!" We exchanged the most dignified salutations with profound gravity and respect, and so went on. The rest of the mad-women seemed to understand the joke perfectly (not only in this case, but I in all the others, except their own), and be highly amused by it. The nature of their several kinds of insanity was made known to me in the same way, and we left each of them in high good humour. Not only is a thorough confidence established, by those means, between the physician and patient, in respect of the nature and extent of their hallucinations, but it is easy to understand that opportunities are afforded for seizing any moment of reason, to [startle them by placing their own delusion before them in its most [incongruous and ridiculous light. Every patient in this asylum sits down to dinner every day with knife and fork; and in the midst of them sits the gentleman, whose lanner of deaUng with his charges, I have just described. At every Imeal, moral influence alone restrains the more violent among them [from cutting the throats of the rest; but the effect of that influence [is reduced to an absolute certainty, and is found, even as a means [of restraint, to say nothing of it as a means of cure, a hundred times more eflicacious than all the strait-waistcoats, fetters, and hand- cuffs, that ignorance, prejudice, and cruelty have manufactured [since the creation of the world. In the labour department, every patient is as freely trusted with I the tools of his trade as if he were a sane man. In the garden, and on the farm, they work with spades, rakes, and hoes. For amusement, they walk, run, fish, paint, read, and ride out to take the air in carriages provided for the purpose. They have among themselves a sewing society to make clothes for the poor, which holds meetings, passes resolutions, never comes to fisty-cuffs or bowie-knives as I sane assemblies have been known to do elsewhere; and conducts ail its proceedings with the greatest decorum. The irritability, which [would otherwise be expended on their own flesh, clothes, and furni- y. 44 American Notes ture, is dissipated in these pursuits. They are cheerful, tranquil, and healthy. Once a week they have a ball, in which the Doctor and his family, with all the nurses and attendants, take an active part. Dances and marches are performed alternately, to the enlivening strains of a piano; and now and then some gentleman or lady (whose proficiency has been previously ascertained) obliges the company with a song: nor does it ever degenerate, at a tender crisis, into a screech or howl; wherein, I must confess, I should have thought the danger lay. At an early hour they all meet together for these festive purposes; at eight o'clock refreshments are served; and at nine they separate. Immense politeness and good breeding are observed throughout. They all take their tone from the Doctor; and he moves a very Chesterfield among the company. Like other assemblies, these enter- tainments afEord a fruitful topic of conversation among the ladies for some days; and the gentlemen are so anxious to shine on these occasions, that they have been sometimes found "practising their steps" in private, to cut a more distinguished figure in the dance. It is obvious that one great feature of this system, is the inculca- tion and encouragement, even among such unhappy persons, of a decent self-respect. Something of the same spirit pervades all the Institutions at South Boston. There is the House of Industry. In that branch of it, which is devoted to the reception of old or otherwise helpless paupers, these words are painted on the walls: "Worthy of Notice. Self-Govern- MENT, Quietude, and Peace, are Blessings." It is not assumed and taken for granted that being there they must be evil-disposed and wicked people, before whose vicious eyes it is necessary to flourish threats and harsh restraints. They are met at the very threshold with this mild appeal. All within-doors is very plain and simple, as it ought to be, but arranged with a view to peace and comfort. It costs no more than any other plan of arrangement, but it speaks an amount of consideration for those who are reduced to seek a shelter there, which puts them at once upon their gratitude and good behaviour. Instead of being parcelled out in great, long, rambling wards, where a certain amount of weazen life may mope, and pine, and shiver, all day long, the building is divided into separate rooms, each with its share of light and air. In these, the better kind of paupers live. They have a motive for exertion and becoming pride, in the desire to make these little chambers comfortable and decent. I do not remember one but it was clean and neat, and had its plant or two upon the window-sill, or row of crockery upon the shelf, or small display of coloured prints upon the whitewashed wall, or, perhaps, its wooden clock behind the door. The orphans and young children are in an adjoining building; separate from this, but a part of the same Institution. Some are such little creatures, that the stairs are of Lilliputian measurement, fitted to their tiny strides. The same consideration for their years and ranquil, family, ices and ins of a (ficiency a song: or howl; lay. At )Oses; at arate. •ughout. a very 56 enter- ic ladies 5n these ng their lance, inculca- ns, of a i all the ;vhich is rs, these tOVERN- issumed iisposed 3sary to he very lain and ace and ent, but luced to ratitude at, long, y mope, separate ;ter kind ig pride, [ decent, had its he shelf, wall, or, Duilding; are such at, fitted sars and American Notes 45 weakness is expressed in their very seats, which are perfect curiosi- ties, and look like articles of furniture for a pauper doll's-house. I can imagine the glee of our Poor Law Commissioners at the notion of these seats having arms and backs; but small spines being of older date than their occupation of the Board-room at Somerset House, I thought even this provision very merciful and kind. Here again, I was greatly pleased with the inscriptions on the wall, which were scraps of plain morality, easily remembered and under- stood : such as "Love one another" — "God remembers the smallest creature in his creation:" and straightforward advice of that nature. ^ books and tasks of these smallest of scholars, were adapted, in .ii, ;^ame judicious manner, to their childish powers. When we had examined these lessons, four morsels of girls (of whom one was blind) sang a little song, about the merry month of May, which I thought (being extremely dismal) would have suited an English November better. That done, we went to see their sleeping-rooms on the floor above, in which the arrangements were no less excellent and gentle than those we had seen below. And after observing that the teachers were of a class and character well suited to the spirit of the place, I took leave of the inxants with a lighter heart than ever I have taken leave of pauper infants yet. Connected with the House of Industry, there is also an Hospital, which was in the best order, and had, I am glad to say, many beds unoccupied. It had one fault, however, which is common to all American interiors : the presence of the eternal, accursed, suffoca- ting, red-hot demon of a stove, whose breath would blight the purest air under Heaven. There are two establishments for boys in this same neighbourhood. One is called the Boylston school, and is an asylum for neglected and indigent boys who have committed no crime, but who in the ordinary course of things would very soon be purged of that distinction if they were not taken from the hungry streets and sent here. The other is a House of Reformation for Juvenile Offenders. They are both under the same roof, but the two classes of boys never come in contact. The Boylston boys, as may be readily supposed, have very much the advantage of the others in point of personal appearance. They were in their school-room when I came upon them, and answered correctly, without book, such questions as where was England; how far was it; what was its population; its capital city; its form of gov^- xment; and so forth. They sang a song too, about a farmer sowmg his seed: with corresponding action at such parts as "'tis thus he sows," "he turns him round," "he claps his hands;" which gave it greater interest for them, and accustomed them to act together, in an orderly manner. They appeared exceedingly well-taught, and not better taught than fed; for a more chubby-looking full-waistcoated set of boys, I never saw. The juvenile offenders had not such pleasant faces by a great deal, and in this establishment there were many boys of colour, I saw ■f, f 46 American Notes them first at their work (basket-mak. ig, and the manufacture of palm-leaf hats), afterwards in their school, where they sang a chorus in praise of Liberty: an odd. and, one would think rather aggravating theme for prisoners. These boys are divided into four classes, each denoted by a numeral, worn on a badge upon the arm. On the arrival of a new-comer, he is put into the fourth or lowest class, and left, oy good behaviour, to work his way up into the first. The design and object of this Institution is to reclaim the youchful criminal bv firm but kind and judicious treatment; to make his prison a place of purification and improvement, not of demoralisation and corruption- to impress upon him that there is but one path, and that one sober industry, which can ever lead him to happiness; to teach him how it may be trodden, if his footsteps have never yet been led that wav and to lure him back to it if they have strayed: in a word, to snatch him from destruction, and restore him to society a penitent and useful member. The importance of such an establishment, in every poin+ of view and with reference to every consideration of humanity and social policy, requires no comment. One other establishment closes the catalogue. It is the .xouse of Correction for the State, in which silence is strictly maintained but where the prisoners have the comfort and mental relief of seeing each other, and of working together. This is the improved system of Prison a Discipline which we have imported into England, and which has been I m successful o^/eration among us for some years past. * America, as a new and not over-populated country, has in all h( prisons the one great advantage, of being enabled to find useful ai. profitable work for the inmates; whereas, with us, the prejudice against prison labour is naturally very strong, and almost insur- mountable, when honest men who have not offended against the laws are frequently doomed to seek employment in vain. Even in the United States, the principle of bringing convict labour and free la,bour into a competition which must obviously be to the dis- advantage of the latter, has already found many opponents whose number is not likely to diminish with access of years. For this very reason though, our best prisons would seem at the lirst glance to be better conducted than'those of America. The tread- mill IS conducted with little or no noise; five hundred men may pick oakum in the same room, without a sound; and both kinds of labour admit of such keen and vigilant superintendence, as will render even a word of personal communication amongst the prisoners almost impossible. On the other hand, the noise of the loom, the forge the carpenter s hammer, or the stonemason's saw. greatly favour those opportunities of intercourse— hurried and brief no doubt but opportunities still— which these several kinds of work, by rendering It necessary for men to be employed very near to each other, and » olten side by side, without any barrier or partition between them in M tneir very nature present. A visitor, too, requires to reason and reflect "" a little, before the sight of a number of men engaged in ordinary lor The American Notes 47 labour, such as he is accustomed to out of doors, will impress him half as strongly as the contemplation of the same persons in the same place and garb would, if they were occupied in some task, marked and degraded everywhere as belonging only to felons in jails. In an American state prison or house of correction, I found it difficult at first to persuade myself that I was really in a jail: a place of ignommious punishment and endurance. And to this hour I very much question whether the humane boast that it is not like one, has its root in the true wisdom or philosophy of the matter. I hope I may not be misunderstood on this subject, for it is one in which I take a strong and deep interest. I incline as little to the sickly feeling which makes every canting lie or maudlin speech of a notorious criminal a subject of newspaper report and general sympathy, as I do to those good old customs of the good old times which made England, even so recently as in the reign of the Third King George, in respect of her criminal code and her prison regula- tions, one of the most bloody-minded and barbarous countries on the earth. If I thought it would do any good to the rising generation I would cheerfully give my consent to the disinterment of the bones'of any genteel highwayman (the more genteel, the more cheerfully), and to their exposure, piecemeal, on any sign-post, gate, or gibbet' that might be deemed a good elevation for the purpose. My reason is as well convinced that these gentry were as utterly worthless and debauched villains, as it is that the laws and jails hardened them in their evil courses, or that their wonderful escapes were effected by the prison-turnkeys who, in those admirable days, had always been felons themselves, and were, to the last, their bosom-friends and pot- companions. At the same time I know, as all men do or should, that the subject of Prison Discipline is one of the highest importance to any community; and that in her sweeping reform and bright example to other countries on this head, America has shown great wisdom, great benevolence, and exalted policy. In contrasting her system with that which we have modelled upon it. I merely seek to show that with all its drawbacks, ours has some advantages of its own. The House of Correction which has led to these remarks, is not walled, like other prisons, but is palisaded round about with tall rough stakes, something after the manner of an enclosure for keeping elephants in, as we see it represented in Eastern prints and pictures The prisoners wear a parti-coloured dress; and those who are sentenced to hard labour, work at nail-making, or stone-cutting. When I was there, the latter class of labourers were employed upon the stone for a new custom-house in course of erection at Boston. They appeared to shape it skilfully and with expedition, though there were very few among them (if any) who had not acquired the art within the prison gates. ^ _ne v/omen, axl m one large room, were employed in making light clothing, for New Orleans and the Southern States. They did their work m silence like the men; and like them were overlooked by the i i I 48 American Notes person contracting for their labour, or by some agent of his apnoint- mcnt In addition to this, they are every moment liable to be^vSd by the prison officers appointed for that purpose «r/m^..T^"^^"?K"*'', ^°'' ^°?^^"^' "^^^^^S of clothes, and so forth are much upon the plan of those I have seen at home Their mode of bestowing the prisoners .t night (which is of ^eneLl ad^p^fon^ differs from ours, and is both simple and effective In the centre of a lofty area, lighted by windows in the four walls, are Le tiers 5 cells one above the other; each tier having before ii a ligh ^ iro? gaS' attainable by stairs of the same construction and mairia^exSS the lowc one which is on the ground. Behind these, back to back with them and facing the opposite wall, are five corresponding rows ot cells, accessib e by similar means: so that supposing the prisoners locked up in their cells, an officer stationed on the ground.^w'th hS back to the wall, has half their number under his lye at once the remaining half being equally under the observation of^Lother officer on the opposite side; and all in one great apartment. Unless this watch be corrupted or sleeping on his post, it is impossible fofa man to escape; for even m the event of his forcing the iron door of hls^eU without noise (which is exceedingly improbable), the moment he appears outside, and steps into that one of the five galleries on which Each'orth '' ^' Tl' t' P^^^^^y ^"^ ^""y visible to?hercerb"?ow Each of these cells holds a small truckle bed. in which one prisoner sleeps; never more. It is small, of course; and the door being not soSd but grated, and without blind or curtain, the prisoner within^s at all ^mes exposed to the observation and inspection of any guard 4ho may pass along that tier at any hour or minute of the nifht Ev^r? kShenTr.'^n? ''T" '^''' ^^"\^^ ^^"S^y- th^°"gh ^ trap in tS kitchen wal . and each man carries his to his sleeping cell to eat it where h. is locked up. alone, for that purpose, one hour. The whole of this a.rangement struck me as being admirable; and I hope that the next new prison we erect in England may be built on tKlan I was given to understand that in this prison no swords or fire- arms, or even cudgels, are kept; nor is it probable chat, so long as its present excellent management continues, any weapon, off enfive or defensive, will ever be required within it* bounds Such are the Institutions at South Boston! In all of them the unfortunate or degenerate citizens of the State are carefX in! structed in their duties both to God and man; are surrounded by aU Zt'^^l^ "'^^°' of comfort and happiness that their condition will admit of; ^e appealed to. as members of the great human familv however afflicted, indigent, or fallen; are ruled by tL strong H?art' hL ""k i'^.?® ^^^''S ^t^°"^^ immeasurably weaker) Hand I have ^.n^'.H >*^'? ^* some length; firstly, because their worth de! ^H 1^ '/".^ secondly, because I mean to take them for a model, and to content myself with saying of others we may come to. whose design and nurnose are-, fh^ QQmo 4-KO+ ,•„ 4.u: A .^ ' ,'*""^*' aesign and purpose axe the same practically fail.^or differ. t**«.t iii uiiio ui iii'cii respect they 5 appoint- be visited so forth, r mode of idoption) 2ntre of a •s of cells, 1 gallei-y, excepting : to back ling rows prisoners with his mce; the er ofl&cer iless this or a man if his cell ment he )n which ;r below, prisoner lot solid, I is at all ard who :. Every p in the eat it, e whole >pe that 3 plan. or fire- ig as its isive or ;m, the illy in- J by all ion will family. Heart, 1 have •th de- model, whose 't they American Notes 49 I wish by this accounf of them, imperfect in its execution, but in its just mtention. honest. I could hope to convey to mv readers nn! affortd me"'^ °' ''^ gratificatiL, the siglTtsI haVe'dtcrin; To an Englishman, accustomed to the paraphernalia of West- minster Hall an Amencan Court of Law is as odd a sight ^ I sun pose an English Court of Law would be to an American Sceptfn the Supreme Court at Washington (where the judges wefr a pla n black robe), there is no such thing as a wig or gown coiTnected wSh the admmistration of justice. The gentlemen o? the ba" bdn^ barristers and attorneys too (for there is no division of those function! as in England) are no more removed from their clients than attornevs in our Court for the Relief of Insolvent Debtors are, f rom theS The jury are quite at home, and make themselves as comfortable ag circumstances will permit. The witness is so little elevated above o? put aloof from, the crowd in the court, that a stranger entering during a pause m the proceedings would find it difficult to pick W out from the rest. And if it chanced to be a criminal trial hfs eve m nine cases out of ten, would wander to the dock in search of the prisoner in vain; for that gentleman would most likely be lounging among the most distinguished ornaments of the legal profession whispering suggestions in his counsel's ear, or making Itoothpick out of an old quill with his penknife. ^ tootnpick out I could not but notice these differences, when I visited the courts at Boston I was much surprised at first, too, to observe that the counsel who interrogated the witness under examination at the time did so szmng. But seeing that he was also occupied in writing dowrl the answers, and remembering that he was alone and had no junior I quickly consoled myself with the reflection that law was not quite so expensive an article here, as at home; and tha^ The absence of sundry formalities which we regard as indispensable had doubtless a very favourable influence upon the bill of ?osts ' m every Court, ample and commodious provision is made for the accommodation of the citizens. This is the case all thrL^h America In every Public Institution, the right of the people to attend ^nd to have an interest in the proceedings, is most Lly and dttlnctfy recogmsed. There are no grim door-keepers to dole out their tardv civility by the sixpenny-worth; nor is there. I sincerely belfeveanv insolence of office of any kind. Nothing national isLh Sled for money; and no public officer is a showman. We have begun of late LTth^r^'f^" *?^f ^°°^ f ^°^P^^- ^ ^°P^ ^^ «^^" continf e ?o do s^ converted!'' ''"""' '"^'^ '^'^''' ^^^ "^^P*^^^ "^^y be «.i'i*^^?'''l ''°"'^ ^"^ m''*'°'' "^^^ *^"g' fo^ damages sustained in some accident upon a railwav. Th^ wifneA^o i-o^ u^^^ _. " " ^^ counsel was addressing the juryT The" Iea^n;rgenflemln '(U^a few of his Enghsh brethxen) was desperately loni-winded, ind had I f (I Iff i. IP 5^ American Notes into the service of every sentence he"ut ered I'ii.Tetd to hT',^" about a quarter of an hour; and, cominR out of court ItTh. 1 J of tliat time, witliout tlie faintest ra„„7likI^°'^''P"'**'°" merits of the case, felt f, ^'l^re aTLme^S """* " *° '"^ a charg:Pf'reft 'w"''7bov""TW3''ir/^"'f'.''V/'^ magistrate on apprentice to some respectable master Thur h?« h^? ? ^ •^''""'^ offence, instead of being the prelTcL to "^Tif^^ detection in this I am by no means a wholesale admirer of our le7al <;n?i^ ^;- many of which impress me as being exceedlngriidlcLui^S^^^^^^^ as It may seem too. there is undoubtedly a degreLf nJotec^^^ w,g and gown-a dismissal of individual refponSy in drei n^ for the part—which encourages that insolent bear na In J i ^^^^^^"8 rrrerr4eT,-a"n1a'ndr^^^^^^^^^ prisoners and many witnesses TheiTtt^iVT ^ includes some owf r^l^y'^- ^^ poweriess!td crot. t tSI S^^^^ Blue ladies there are/ irBS^onburnLnv"^' "^^1"°* disappointed, and sex in most other^a^fudes ?hiy^^^^^^^^^^^ superior than to be so. E^ mgelical lad J^f w« , m ^? t^^ought attachment to the forms f,frSi^^l'rv*J^5_^_^.^^,,^^ whose tainments,aremostexempla^I^-es;^oW— -^^ American Notes ing lectures are to be found among all classes and all conditions In the kind of provincial life which prevails in cities such as this the Pu.p.t has great influence. The peculiar province of the Pulp t in New England (always excepting the Unitarian Ministry) would appear to be the denouncement of all innocent and rational amuse- ments. The church the chapel, and the lecture-room, ^re the only means of excitement excepted; and to the church, the ch^.pel. and the 1. cture-room. the ladies resort in crowds Wherever religion is resorted to. as a strong drink, and as an escape from the dull njonotonous round of home, those of ts ministers who pepper the highest will be the surest to please. They whor'ew the Eternal Path with the greatest amount of brimstone, and v. ■ o most ruthlessly tread down the flowers and leaves that griw by t ° w^v- side. ' I be voted the most righteous; and they whS enlarge wi~th the grea^ ' Pertinacity on the difficulty of getting into heav^en wUl be consiu .d by all true believers certain of going there: though it would De hard to say by what process of reasoning this conclusfon s arrived at. It is so at home, and it is so abroad. With regard to ?he other means of excitement, the Lecture, it has at least the merit of being always new. One lecture treads so quickly on the heels of another, that none are remembered; and the course of this month mav i'^tet:{^uXtd' "^^^' ^''' ''' ''-- ^' --^^^ -^-^-. -^ s philosophers known as TranscendentaLts.^On^nqSr Srwhat th" appellation might be supposed to signify. I was given to understand Nnf H r- "^'^ ^^t^^i^t/^igjble. would be certahily transcendental Not deriving much comfort from this elucidation. I pursued the H quiry still f urther^and found that the Transcendentalists are followers of my friend Mr. Carlyle. or I should rather say. of a follower oH^o Mr. Ralph \Valdo Emerson. This gentleman has written a volume of Essays, in which, among much that is dreamy and fanciful (if he wS pardon me for saying so), there is much more that is true and mai^y honest and bold. Transcendentalism has its occasional vagaries W nn^lT' ^^' "°'- ^^."' '' ^^^ ^°°^ h^^^*hf"l qualities in spite o them, not least among the numbe- a hearty disgust of Cant and an aptitude to detect her in all the million vSiet fs of hc^ eve^^^^^^^^ The only preacher I heard in Boston was Mr. Taylor, who addresses himself peculiarly to seamen, and who was once a^ma^i^er hhns3f I found his chapel down among the shipping, in one of the narrow old water-side streets, with a gay blue flag waving freely froi^ftrroof In the gallery opposite to the pulpit were a little choir of male and female sineers. a violnnr.f>lln anH o ,m«i;., ti. u-„ , ^-^^ '^n^ in the pulpit, which was raised on pillars, and ornamented behind him with painted drapery of a lively and somewhat theatrical appeiani^ ilJ 1 i... 1 1 5^ American Notes He looked a weather-beaten hard-featured man of ab out six or f^iaU^ and fifty; with deep lines graven as it were into Ws face darlLTr ^ J^ preheusive in its doctrines, and tSd a tone oTfen'^r^atmnX Wilderness leaning on the arm of her beloved !" ^ ^ He handled his text in all kinds of ways and twisted ,> ,«+« oii weTarn4d?1i.^"* "'"^^^ ingeniously. Ind wTth I^ude ^^^^^^^^^^ well adapted to the comprehension of his hearers Indeed if t k! « * tTanth?dtt'"A'^^^^ ren^arkably good. He spokft^them o "hat' g^rCs'mln LorS Nelson/' and of Collingwood; and drew not^ngfr^s the savin. [, by the head and shoulders, but brought it to bear «nnn hl^^ ^ ' Zf H-,'"S "" ^^ P*'^"? "P ^^ ^l^^rs and Who are these— who are they— who are these fellows? where Hr. inX^r°"^ 'r™ ^''T f " *'^«y soing to?-Come fromTwhaSthe ri^M hL7 -r^^K f °',?^ P"'P"' ^°'' P"'-*'"? downward wth his Stors before iSS'Trom^^^^ '^^l'' "l'^'"' '"<' '"oking a?the hatTes of S. S WH^ °T' "y brethren. From under the uaicnes oi sm, battened down above you by the evil ono Thai-', where you came froml"_a walk up and dJwn the nuS't "»nH where are you going"_stopping ab^ptly: '■wherrLryJu goiS^ ^ofti-^aerlSil' ..^v,^.P°'f "8 "P^^^-i-- ' 'Aloft l'^°J^,IS: wri^autt^t' an*?trim^: e'e„tg"^ir^t^oTH!:t^^^^ where there are no storms or f^l weather and X?e^h. ?'f^.' "Tw'""^ *""""> ^"'^ *•><> weai^'^re ai ^est'^^Anofter'Sl^ Twt l^^^'ty°X'^ ?°'"8 *°- ""y «^°ds. Thafs it. That°s toe oT^e That s the port. Thafs the haven. If., a bl»c=<.^ k,:^.".!;: .3H K^^- there, in all changes of the winds and" tidesFno ^Zg^^^^T^ \ l':>. American Notes 53 the rocks, or slipping your cables and running out to sea there- S-Kf^^^^l^w^'^^"^^ peace !"-Another walk, and patt'ing the Bible under his left arm: "What! These fellows are coming from the wilderness, are they? Yes. From the dreary, blighted wilderness of Imquity. whose only crop is Death. But do they lean upon anything :^lu^^'}^Au "P""" nothing, these poor seamen? "-Three raps upon the Bible: "Oh yes.-Yes.-They lean upon the arm of their Bdoved" -three more raps: upon the arm of their Beloved "-three more, and a walk: Pilot, guiding-star. and compass, all in one. lo all hands- here It is -three more: "Here it is. They can do their seaman's duty ^th fhil''^^ ^^'^ '^.ii^''' "^^^^ ^" *^^ "*"^°^t Pe"l and danger, with this -two more: "They can come, even these poor fellows Ian come, from the wilderness leaning on the arm of their Beloved and go up— up— up! —raising his hand higher, and higher, and higher ^i7t'^'"lP^*'*i°^ °^ *^^ wo^^' so that he stood with it at last stretched above his head, regarding them in a strange, rapt manner and pressing the book triumphantly to his breast, until he gradually subsided into some other portion of his discourse . .^.?^''?^'^^*t^. this, rather as an instance of the preacher's eccen- tricities than his ments. though taken in connection with his look and manner, and the character of his audience, even this was striking It is possible, however, that my favourable impression of him may have been greatly influenced and strengthened, firstly, by his im- pressing upon his hearers that the true observance of religion was not inconsistent mth a cheerful deportment and an exact discharge of the duties of their station, which, indeed, it scrupulously required of them; and secondly, by his cautioning them not to set up any monopoly m Paradise and its mercies. I never heard these t-wo points so wisely touched (if indeed I have ever heard them touched at all) by any preacher of that kind before. '' Having passed the time I spent in Boston, in making myself acquainted with these things, in settling the course I should take in my future travels, and in mixing constantly with its society. I am not aware that I have any occasion to prolong this chapter. Such of Its social customs as I have not mentioned, however, may be told in a very few words. ^ The usual dinner-hour is two o'clock. A dinner party takes place at .r,l T-^ ^* ^u ^Tt"'"^ P^''^^' *^^y s^l^o"^ sup later than eleven; so that It goes hard but one gets home, even from a rout, by midnight I never could find out any difference between a party at Boston and a party m London, saving that at the former place all assemblies are held at more rational hours; that the conversation mav possibly be a il f^ II ^""^ ""^""^ cheerful; and a guest is usually expected to ascend to the very top of the house to take his cloak off; that he is f.f5ro*?ill\flr!!?:f!""^f%^^ unusual amount of pou.Hry on the n^Iwe^"-"' "^ """"•^' ''r"^^^\' ""^ '^^^^ ^° mignty bowis of hot stewed smothered eaSly!" ^ half-grown Duke of Clarence might be fi 'i li '' 13 sjt^f i 54 American Notes laid m a very handsome hall for breakfast anH w hF« table is .ilT^^K V°. **° """idred: sometimes more The advent nf shaki the ver'^'T *•? "^y *^ proclaimed by an awfiuontwhich ^th the ve^ blackest of^r'"'"-^? *" """^ """«'• ^"^ «P"-M«d nrZ fK ?^i""^ii"re, having no curtains to the French bedstead it was a shower-bath ° ^' ^"'* "'«'"' '" *" fi'" "^"^l «>»* CHAPTER IV AN AMERICAN RAILROAD. LOWELL AND ITS FACTORY SYSTEM Lown^r'"^""^ ^°'*°"' ^ '^'™t«"l o"« day to an excursion to ^..,^.., ^i.cii gciicrai cnaracteristics are easily described ° There are no first and second class carriageLs IJith „s,: but there is American Notes 55 whfcf fsTat in%h?1. %*^^'''' l^''- *^^ "^^^^ distinction between nobodv does AsVhlnl^^ everybody smokes; and in the second! Gulliver put to sea in from flit' *'^""^^""|' clumsy chest, such as prppf Hp^i ,;/ ^i7- ' *^^ kingdom of Brobdingnag. There is a mMmmMm who hits his fancy If vou are a?, L^ Uh^ '' "i,' ^ *° ^"ybody «lse says Yes? (interrogatively , and asks in what resoect thfiv Hiffit ^Yes?'"r!r *: *''' ^^■''•^' °* difference, one by oTe and L sivs else ^ ' ""^ *^^* ^^^ *^^ g^^a* sights are somewhere . I miih i - rm 56 American Notes vacates it with great politeness. Politics are much discussed, so are Danks, so IS cotton. [^ aiet people avoid the question of the Presidencv for there will be a new election in three years and a half, and party feeling runs very high: the great constitutional feature of this institu- tion being, that directly the acrimony of the last election is over the acnmony of the next one begins; which is an unspeakable comfort to all strong politicians and true lovers of their country: that is to say to ninety-nme men and boys out of every ninety-nine and a quarter. Itxcept when a branch road joins the main one, there is seldom more than one track of rails; so that the road is very narrow, and the view, where there is a deep cutting, by no means extensive. When there is not the character of the scenery is always the same. Mile alter mile of stunted trees: some hewn down by the axe. some blown down by the wind, some half fallen and resting on their neighbours many mere logs half hidden in the swamp, others mouldered away to spongy chips. The very soil of the earth is made up of minute frag- ments such as these; each pool of stagnant water has its crust of vegetable rottenness; on every side there are the boughs, and trunks and stumps ottrees. in every possible stage of decay, decomposition,' and neglect Now you emerge for a few brief minutes on an open country, glittenn ; with some bright laKe or pool, broad as many an English river, but so small here that it scarcely has a name; now catch hasty glimpses of a distant town, with its clean white houses and their cool piazzas Its prim New England church and school-house; when whir-r-r-r! almost before you have seen them, comes the same dark screen: the stunted trees, the stumps, the logs, the stagnant water—all so like the last that you seem to have been transported back again by magic. ^ The train calls at stations in the woods, where the wild impossi- bility of anybody having the smallest reason to get out. is only to be equalled by the apparently desperate hopelessness of there being anybody to get m. It rushes across the turnpike road, where there it no gate, no policeman, no signal: nothing but a rough wooden arch on which IS pamted "When the bell rings, look out for the LOCOMOTIVE On it whirls headlong, div^s through the woods again emerges m the light, clatters over frail arches, rumbles upon the heavy ground, shoots beneath a wooden bridge which intercepts the light for a second like a wink, suddenly uwakens all the slumbering echoes in the mam street of a large town, and dashes on haphazard pell-mell, neck-or-nothing, down the middle of the road There- with mechanics working at their trades, and people leaning from their doors and windows, and boys flying kites and playing marbles, and men smoking, and women talking, and children crawling, and pigs burrowmg. and unaccustomed horses plunging and rearing, close to the very rails— there— on, on. on— tears the mad dragon of an engine with Its train of cars; scattering in all directions a shower of burnincr S1«f fi'"i-^\'^°°'^ ^?' S'^'^^ect^ing' hissing, yelling, panting; until at last the thirsty monster stops beneath a covered way to drink the American Notes cj people cluster round, and you have time to breathe again I was met at the station at Lowell by a gentleman int'^'o* i nected with the management of the factWfthi^^^^^^ t7wf in" wtch'ihr^^^^^^^^ ^HiTifcf orr° ^'^^"^^"^ Although only just of agei:fo'^ my^SLSecTiLVerv'e mHt harbet a manufacturmg town barely ope-and-twenty Tel^s-iiweiMs a large, populous, thrivmg place. Those indications of its v^th which might have been deposited theron&rdiLTof the wlS the Deluge In one place, there was a new wooden chuTchwhkh having no steeple^ and being yet unpalnted, looked Ske an eAomona packing-case without any direction UDon it In aww «, ' large hotel, whose walls Ind colc^Ldes were so cn^o Ld'^f^^ "^ 2 slight, that it had exactly the appearaLrofbeinrb'^iU ^th ckrd"^^ T IZ f^'"' ""t t° d™* "y breath as we passed, fndtreiSiedwh,!; I saw a workman come out upon the roof 1p«t Jrfti, ^rTv JI^T stamp ol his foot he should ^^s^tte stricfurTbeneatte^?^ bring it rattlmg down. The verv river tw^o„ °?'^^*'» j!"^. and the Inn (for thiy are alf^orreTbTwIt^^S seeL"tot^^^^ " new character from the fresh building of briZ „d S *°h ^„i,"'? " wood among which it takes its course; a^d t "be as bVhfS*!? ttoughtless, and brisk a young river, in to mumuringf ^id ^m' "ter^''°Tro7"'''"'''''r^..*° r- 0°« would "wei^ttTtev"^ to^kltYshut'^t °r 7own"J^r t^ ^SftS" ^"d ^T J"^ t '^'^ yesterday The golden pesLs and molars feed aTsli"„^Z"the sun-blmd frames outside the Druesists" ann»»V^t„ vl^ u^^ .*''® turned out of the United States" St! and w"en I stw a birJ ;^s?scirhar- *^^* " coSii^t-tn^r^Tsun There are several factories in Lowell earh nf wVuVt, v.^^ :'?m:?itra"'cVrra?i^T^^°'^°^^^^^^^^^^ Sno T"^ Pf *■ ^"i* ^"^ *«"' '° their ordinary working a?p«t »X^=MZyl^d^hIttarw"S£^^^^^^^ c^mItT^aH" • f "'"''' """^ ""^^ °^'^"'' ^a-ctory just as the dinner hour was ^hTmm ^\?'"^' ^^^^ returning to their work, indeed the stakHf , the mill were thronged with them as I ascended. They were aS well 58 American Notes dressed but not to my thinking above their condition; for I like to see the humbler classes of society careful of their dress and appear ance. and even, if they please, decorated with such little trinkets as come withm the compass of their means. Supposing it confined with- in reasonable limits., I would always encourage this kind of pride as k worthy element of self-respect, m any person I employed7and should no more be deterred from doing so. because some ^^etched femak referred her fall to a love of dress, than I would allow my (Sructo wiJ^InT '^*r*^^1?'^"^"§^^/^" Sabbath to be influenced by any warning to the well-disposed, founded on his backslidings on that particular day, which might emanate from the rather^ doubtfu authority of a murderer in Newgate. uouotiui These girls, as I have said, were all well dressed: and that rhrase necessarily includes extreme cleanliness. They had serviceable bonnets good warm cloaks, and shawls; and were not above clogs and pattens. Moreover, there were places in the mill in whi^h thev cou d deposit these things without injury; and there were co/ veniences for washing. Thsy were healthy in appearance manvo them remarkably so. and had the manners and deportmeni 5 vounl women: not of degraded brutes of burden. If I had s^en in o^ne of those mills (but I di4 not. though I looked for something of tWs kind with a sharp eye), the most lisping, mincing, affected and rid? culous young creature that my imagination could suggest I should have thought of the careless, moping. slatternV dISaded dull SoTrp<^n he?. "'" ''''^' ^"' ^'°"'' ^^' ^^^^ ^ tXpt'sed"to ..u^! w"?^ '''• '^^'''^ ^^^^ worked, were as well ordered as them- selves In the windows of some, there were green plants which weTe tramed to shade the glass; in all. there was as mudi fresh air cW aS oT oT^*',^' '^" ^^'"^" °^ '^^ occupation would possX admit of. 9ut of so large a number of females, many of whom were only then just vergmg upon womanhood, it may be reasonabTylup! posed that some were delicate and fragile in appearance: no doubt there were. But I solemnly declare, that from all the crowd I saw in f ace ih.T?* '"''^"'^ '"^-^'/f^' ' ^^"^°* '^'^'' ^' separate one yo'ng face that gave me a pamful impression; not one young girl whom assuming It to be matter o^ necessity that she should glin her daUv the possession of these houses, whose character^ have not undergone the most searchmg and thorough inquiry. And complaii.t that is made against them by the boarders, or by any one else, is fully inves! tigated; and if good ground of complaint be shown to exist agaTnst ^r^Tj^^!L^'^ removed.^nd their occupation is handed over to some rn,..,. V.V.V. vuxj^ peison. xnere are a few children employed in these factories, but not m^ny. The laws of the State forbid their workSg i American Notes 59 J V4 more than nine months in the year, and require that thev be ediiMt»H during the other three. For this puri>ose there are spools in w!? and there are churches and chapels of various persuasions in whfch At some distance from the factories, and on the highest anH pleasantest ground in the neighbourhood. stanS^hel h& w°.f hnlf; h°'''' ^""^ *^' r ^' '' '' '^^ ^^«* ^^""'^ in those pa?ts? and was built by an emment merchant for his own residence Like thaf mstitute at Boston, which I have before described. UsTotparc^^^^^^^ out into wards, but is divided into convenient chambers^tlch of which has all the comforts of a very comfortable home. S prTncipa medical attendant resides under the same roof; and were the^pSts members of his own family, they could not be better cared for or attended with greater gentleness and consideration. The weekly charge m this establishment for each female patient is three dSl^s^ or twelve shillings English; but no girl employed by any of the c^r-' porations is ever excluded for want of the means of payment That facT "nTuTv^xsTx'^'V^^ T.""^' "^"^ ^^ gathered from the lact that in July. 1841, no fewer than nine hundred and seventy- eight of these girls were depositors in the Lowell Savings Sank' the amount of whose joint savings was estimated at one hundred thou- sand dollars, or twenty thousand English pounds ""'''''^^'^ ^^°^' I am now going to state three facts, which will startle a large class of readers on this side of the Atlantic, very much in Jwic^^f ^ '^f^ joint-stock piano in a great many of the board- ing-houses. Secondly, nearly all these young ladies subscrihp fn circulating libraries. Thirdlyf they have got up among themselves a periodical called The Lowell Offering. ''A repository ofoS ^ticles. writt^en exclusively by females actively employed If the mills, -which is duly printed, published, and sold; and whereof I brought away from Lowell four hundred good solid pages which I have read from beginning to end. ^^ ' ^ ^ wiS'L^f ^^•''^^'^x?* ''^^^^'■^' ^*^^*^^^ ^y *^«se facts, will exclaim with one voice. "How very preposterous!" On my deferentially S quirmg why. they will answer, "These things are above tSir statL^' In reply to that objection. I would beg to Isk what their stato^^^^^ It IS their station to work. And they do work. They labour in these mills, upon an average, twelve hours a day. which is unquestionablv work and pretty tight work too. Perhapsit is above ?LTr statTon S indulge m such amusements, on any terms. Are we quite sure that we m England have not formed our ideas of the "station" of working people, from accustoming ourselves to the contemplation of that class as they are. and not as they might be.? I think that if we examine our ow. 'eelmgs. we shall find that the pianos, and theclrcuS libraries, and evpn th*» Ty^w«n nff^r.; „^„-xi_ .._ ,. ,, ^"^uidtmg J . ' i / . — — """ -'-^^^^"^5. staitic uo uy tneir noveltv ^TOHg ^^^"°^ "^°'' ^""^ ^^ -^^^^^ ciuestioij of right or , i I I'l 6o American Notes .hl/f I^^^S ' ^?^J^° station in which, the occupation of to-day cheerfully done and the occupr.tion of to-morrow cheerfully looked fkn^nw n^'ntf^l k?k""^*' !f "°] ""^'^ humanising and laudable. I know no station which is rendered more endurable to the person in It. or more safe to the person out of it. by having ignorance for its ZlTni^ ^"T"°. ''^.'^°^ ^^^^^ ^^' ^ "g^t to monopolise the means of mutual instruction, improvement, and rational entertain- ment, or which has ever continued to be a station very lone after Seeking to do so. ^ °' Of the merits of the Lowell Offering as a literary production I will only observe, putting entirely out of sight the fact of the articles having been written by these girls after the arduous labours of the day. that It will compare advantageously with a great many English Annuals It is pleasant to find that many of its Tales are of the Mills and of those who work in them; that they inculcate habits of self- denial and contentment, and teach good doctrines of enlarged benevolence A strong feeling for the beauties of nature, as displayed m the solitudes the writers have left at home, breathes through its pages like wholesome village air; and though a circulating library is a ?.T/o i^ school for the study of such topics, it has ver^ scant allu^ sion to iJne clothes, fine marriages, fine houses, or fine life. Some ?.?w fi""'^^* °^Jl^V*° *^« papers being signed occasionally with rather fine names, but this is an American fr- ,hion. One of the oro- yinces of the state legislature of Massachusetts is to alter ugly names mto pretty ones, as the childr-. improve upon the tastel of their parents. These changes costing little or nothing, scores of Marv Annes are solemnly converted into Bevelinas every session ri!;r!f M^ ^^^^ °? the occasion of a visit from General Jackson or General Harrison to this town (I forget which, but it is not to the purpose) he walked through three miles and a half of these young ladies all dressed out with parasols and silk stockings But as I am not aware that any worse consequence ensued, than a sudden lookine- up of al the parasols and silk stockings in the market; and perhaps the bankruptcy of some speculative New Englander who bought W?no Itll t?^ P K^'^vi?' expectation of a.demand that never came; 1 set no great store by the circumstance. ^?i^^f>"ff account of Lowell, and inadequate expression of the gratification it yielded me. and cannot fail to afford to any foreigner to whom the condition of such people at home is a subject of interest and anxious speculation. I have carefully abstained from drawing a comparison between these factories and those of our own land Many of the circumstances whose strong influence has been at work for years in our manufacturing towns have not arisen here; and there is no manufacturing population in Lowell, so to speak: for these girls (often the daughters of small farmers) come from other States remain a few years in the mills, and then go home for good n ''T ''^"^''.f .Y'^V.^'^. be a strong one. for it would be between the Good and Evil, the living light and deepest shadow. I abstain from it American Notes 6i because I deem it just to do so. But I only the more earnestly adjure ^In fll"^ S'^'^^^'w^ '^'* ""^ *^^"^ P^g^«' to pause and reflect upon the difference between this town and those great haunts of desperate misery: to call to mind, if they can in the midst of party strife and squabble the efforts that must be made to purge them of their suffermg and danger: and last, and foremost, to remember how the precious Time is rushing by. r.l ^;^t"^^^l^*= ^ig^t by the same railroad and in the same kind of a^l'Sr .w^ passengers being exceedingly anxious to expound at great length to my companion (not to me. of course) the true prin- ciples on which books of travel in America should be writteS by Englishmen. I feigned to fall asleep. But glancing all the way out at window from the corners of my eyes. I found abundance of entertain- "'i!"t^'"i K^ ''^'* °^ ^uf ""^^ ^^ watching the effects of the wood fire which had been invisible in the morning but were now brought out in hrUf i .^ the darkness: for we were travelling in a whirlwind of bright sparks, which showered about us like a storm of fiery snow CHAPTER V WORCESTER. THE CONNECTICUT RIVER. HARTFORD. NEW HAVEN. TO NEW YORK Leaving Boston on the afternoon of Saturday the fifth of Februarv we proceeded by another railroad to Worcester: a pretty New England town, where we had arranged to remain under the hospitable ro^of the Governor of the State, until Monday morning °'P''''^'® Sv ?!, • ^"S^^?^)' are as favourable specimens of rural America as their people are of rural Americans. The well-trimmed lawns and green meadows of home are not there; and the grass, com- w .T:J*1? o^^ .ornamental plots and pastures, is rank. Ind ^ough and wild: but delicate slopes of land, gently-swelling hills, wooded valleys and slender streams, abound. Every little colony of houses rooVl'nS r."? T^ school-house peeping from among"^ the white Vpn!f . w '^J'iJ^^'' ^""^'^ ^°"'^ '^ t^^ ^^itest of the white; every Wn.!? f.i. Ki"^ *^^ P^^^'* °^ t^^ g'"^^"' every fi^e day's sky tS bluest of the blue. A sharp dry wind and a slight frost had so hardened wer. ifi?' '^H^''' ^' alighted at Worcester, that their furrowed tracks were like ridges of gramte. There was the usual aspect of newness on buil7and^'''' f h'?w'- ^'' '^^ ^^^^^^"g^ l°^k-d a^ if they hTd been ^^^^i^^fitl":.^.!^?^^^^^ -"1^. ^^ t-^- ^-wn In Monday Innto^"/ r""j '""'7:''"- -"^"^^ ^ccii evening air, every sliarp outline cdonn.l« r^''^ ^'"""^ '^^'P"' *^^" ^^^^- The clean cTrdboard colonnades had no more perspective than a Chinese bridge on a tea- I 6^ American Notes ^^Lo ?.tPP?^^^l^^''*"y ^^" calculated for use. The ra2or-like edges of the detached cottages seemed to cut the very wind as it whistled against them, and t.. send it smarting on it7way with a SdwhTch\t".^''°''- T?°^^ slightly-builf wooden Jw^^ngs Wir^M ^ u*"® ''^'' "^^^ ^^**^"g ^it^ a brilliant lustre, could be so iwefoh?H°K^^ and through, that the idea of any inhabitant beinR ?he n,?Wi> t '^" ^'T ^^^ P"^^^' «^^^' °^ to have any secrets frorS W..F" i T' "^^1^°* entertainable for a moment. Even where^ house ^it hid t°h"' *^^7«^.*^« uncurtained windows of sor^e distant and fniin .f \' ""^-^^'"^ "^^^y ^^8^*^^' ^"d of lacking warmth' ?.ol .1 fl^l^'^^^^^'^g thoughts of a snug chamber bright with wUh wafmTanr..'^f. 1^^"' ^°""^ *^^^ ''^' hearth, anfru^dy new mTt^r anSSp waC' "P°" '"^ ^"^^^^*^^^ ^' ^^^ ^"^^^' ^^ wa!°shinW ^Hahf/^^'*'^*^;* ^T^"^"S- ^^^* "^^"'^i^g when the sun was Shining brightly, and the clear church bells were rin^ina an^J sedate people in their best clothes enlivened the pathwafnfkr at SaSba?S^.et"f 1 *^' ^"*""* *^^^^^ °^ ^°^^' the™ a^^pS^^^ saDbath peacefulness on everything which it w^q ar>r^H f/^*Iti tZ rve?^;;? Li? 4'^'^*^^h^ f ^^ ^^''^^"-^' ^««- s^tnirsom o d the scene which Tff.V^.ir^ 'ff ""^ ''^'^ ^"^ tranquillity pervaded do:brg;aTet^^^^^^^^^^^ -^ *^« ^--d ci?y. had a thlXTtoHarTflT'^v^^^^ ''^" ^y '^^^^°^^' t« Springfield. From five and Lin? °^'»7?'*^^'' "^^ ^^^^ ^°""d' ^^ a distance of only SJttw r''*^ °'''^^' ^"t ^t that time of the year the roads were so hoL Fortunirr^^^ "°"'^ P.^°^"^^y ^^"^ °^^"Pi«d ten orTw Ive the CorneSt fe^^^^^ '^'^'"" ^^^'""^ ^""" unusually mild! tJIV^!^? • . ^^^ "^^^ "open," or, in other words, not frozen the seasortht^^'^'^.V'*'^^^^^^^ S°^"g to make his first tr?p for tne season that day the second February trio I beli^vp wi+>,i« fvll memory of man), and only waited for usX go on boarLrrdS^^^^^ we went on board, with as little delay as milht be He w^ argood Is his word, and started directly ^ ^°°^ ^^ om^i^tteftollTSf n''^^'^"'^ ^ f"'^" steamboat without reason. I aS,ut Llf fJ^ question but I should think it must have been of have lived IZI JT""' ^'■- ^^^^' *^^ celebrated Dwarf, might nave lived and died happily in the cabin, which was fitted wlfh common sash-windows like"^ an ordinary' Snrhouse T^se winaows had bright-red curtains, too. hung on slack strings across hoi rwS hid V'.^'i* ^?-'^' '^' ^ P^^^°- °" aSSpubTi" ?^i ' "^J^eji.ha^ got afloat m a flood or some other water accident was Z^f^^^'J^'^r^l/ '^''Z r ^^" ^"^ ^^^^ - thisThamrer the" e WicTw^u^^^^^^ '^ g^^ - -y-here, in n, J.f,"i/i't^L*l*.^i^°^ P^^ f-^t short this vessel was. or how meas'uremenrwnnM''K "^^'' ^^^e words length and width to such measurement would be a contradiction in terms. But I may state American Notes g^ forming a warm sandwich, about three feet thick ''°'* inrSfhu'idtjflc^oS*^^^^^^^^^^ ice. which were constantly crunching an 7rr. A ?*'"^ ^^°^^^ °^ depth of water, in the cLrse we tLk ^^^^^^^ "'' ^"^ '^"^ , carried down the middle of the riv^r hxffvl the larger masses. !few inches. NeverthS we moveJ o^^^^^^ did not exceed a I well wrapped up. bade drfiance to ^Srweather Tnd'^Jnf"^^^^^ pumey. The Connecticut River il\^^LZt ' f enjoyed the summeUmeare.Ihavenodoubt beaJ^^^^^^ the banks in -Jif^d.. wej-e very conducfveTe^rTy rising" """°'* "^^ P""=« bal' S"^tn'Sls°"theTi.^sUr '^!'-"t»-"y -tuated in a improved It is the seat nfthiw,!*'- ,™f"-™° groan; and covered his hot head with the blankets. There was another: a young man, whose madness was love and music. After playing on the accordion a march he had composed, he was very anxious that I should walk into his chamoer, which I immediately did. — ,- J 1^ .»..j. - his bent. )f ht I went I* t*\.^ Tr ill iiliii to the window, which commanded a LiiU t(Jp Oi beautiful nversation and good- ie end of a lescensipn, and?" to present [lancing at ous in my ird again; 2p or two); d as much e an ante- irked and id ambled nt in bed; ?: "It's all 3 his fore- ked at mo )n by the Lrm at all. ey'll have lave some said these )vered his love and iposed, he , which I LiiC LOp Ui beautiful Aiiiericaii Notes 65 prospect, and remarked, with an address upon which I greatly i>liinied myself: *^ gicdny ^-What a delicious country you have about these lodgings of "Pohl" said he, moving his fingers carelessly over the notes of hU .nstrument: ;P^.// enough for such an InstitutLZ7thi!r I don t thmk I was ever so taken aback in all my life 4hl That "a\ir ti^l^"^'" '^ '""^ ^°°"^- '^^'"^'^ ^'•' ., ''y,^^- That's all The Doctor's a smart man. He quite enters into It. It 8 a ]oke of mine. I like it for a time. You needn't men "on "t but I thmk I shall go out next Tuesday 1" luenuon it, I assured him that I would consider our interview perfectly confidential; and rejomed the Doctor. As we were passing throueh a gallery on our way out. a welWressed lady, of quiet and coSed manners, came up. and proffering a slip of pape? and a pen K^ paid.'"'' ^ ^' ^"" "^''^ ^^ autograph. I complied/ and^^^ 1 i\**''^^^ J ^^"'^"'i'f ^^^i"g had a few interviews like that t ith ladies out of doors. I hope she is not mad?" '|0n what Subject? Autographs?" "No. She hears voices in the air." "Well!" thought!, "it would be well if we could shut up afew false prophets of these later times, who have professed to d? the same begin ^th"'' " '" '"^ '^' experiment o^n a Mormonist or two to In this place, there is the best Jail for untried offenders in the world. There is also a very well-ordered State prison, arranged upon the same plan as that at Bo3ton. except that here, therels always a sentry on the wall with a loaded gu.. It contained it that l!me about two hundred prisoners. A spot was shown me in the sleepSg ward where a watchman was murdered some years since in the deld of mght, m a desperate attempt to escape, made by a priiner who had broken from his oell A woman, too. was pointed out to me. who for the murder of her husband, had been a close prisoner for s^ieen "Do you think." I asked of my conductor, "that after so very SiWtT""""*' "''" ""'' '"^ ''''"'^' °' ^°P^ "' ever regaining "Oh dear yes," he answered. "To be sure she has." bhe has no chance of obtaining it, I suppose >" .'w n** ^^f y/*^l' *^^y couldn't get her out. I suppose?" Well, not the first time, perhaps, nor yet the second 1 321 tiring American Notes 66 and wearying for a few years might do it." "Does that ever do it?" "Why yes, that'll do it sometimes. Political friends'll do it some- times. It's pretty often done, one way or another." I shall always entertain a very pleasant and grateful recollection of Hartford. It is a lovely place, and I had many friends there, whom I can never remember with indifference. We left it with no little regret on the evening of Fridr-y the nth, and travelled that night by railroad to New Haven. Upon the way, the guard and I were formally introduced to each other (as we usually were on such occasions), and exchanged a variety of small- talk. We reached New Haven at about eight o'clock, after a journey of three hours, and put up for the night at the best inn. New Haven, known also as the City of Elms, is a fine town. Many of its streets (as its alias sufficiently imports) are planted with rows of grand old elm-troes; and the same natural ornaments surround Yale College, an establishment of considerable eminence and repu- tation. The ' arious departments of this Institution are erected in a kind of park or common in the middle of the town, where they are dimly visible among the shadowing trees. The effect is very like that of an old cathedral yard in England; and when their branches are in full leaf, must be extremely picturesque. Even in the winter time, these groups of well-grown trees, clustering among the busy streets and houses of a thriving city, have a very quaint appearance: seeming to bring about a kind of compromise between town and country; as if each had met the other half-way, and shaken hands upon it; which is at once novel and pleasant. After a night's rest we rose early, and in good time went down to the wharf, and on board the packet New York for New York. This was the first American steamboat of any size that I had seen; and certainly to an English eye it was infinitely less like a steamboat' than a huge floating bath. I could hardly persuade myself, indeed, but that the bathing establishment off Westminster Bridge, which I left a baby, had suddenly grown to an enormous size; run away from home; and set up in foreign parts as a steapier. Being in America, too, which our vagabonds do so particularly favour, it seemed the more probable. The great difference in appearance between these packets and ours, is, that there is so much of them out of the water: the main-deck being enclosed on all sides, and filled with casks and goods, like any second or third floor in a stack of warehouses; and the promenade or hurricane-deck being a-top of that again. A part of the machinery is always above this deck; where the connecting-rod, in a strong ar^; lofty frame, is seen working away like an iron top-sawyer. Ther^ is seldom any mast or tackle: nothing aloft but two tall black chimneys. The man at the helm is shut up in a little house in the fore part of tllP hnnf {■^Ytfi wViool Vioirirr />i-\rir»or>f«y4 ori^-V. 4-V>^ ^..J.1_» 1 : _i _• _ ^ , ,„_,„, j^ v-_-iiiiT.VLt.ti YTXi-ii tHc X uuuci uy null Cilcims, working the whole length of the deck); and the passengerc, unless American Notes 5^ the weather be very fine in(>prl iic»nii„ ^ . , ' you have left the wharf Xhe lil^i Jcf"^'^?^ ^^^°^- ^^^^^tlv cease. You wondeXr a lonftim^ h. ?'"' ^"""^ ^"'^^^ °^ « P^^^ket to be nobody in charge of he^^^T '^^ ^^^^ «"' ^^^ there seems machines corses spthfnVoy.'^'ou feel qufte indi^' ."' t^.^^^ ^"" sullen, cumbrous ungraceful unshinHi.^V indignant with it. as a that the vessel you afe^'^bLTo'ft^^^^ vTrV^oTntetan ^^^^^^ yolr^flre; f SL^ fa^^^.'.^ ,t?agT In'd ^^tf "^^^^^ ^^ P^^ room; and in short a greai vS of nlni .?^ '°2"''' ^"gi^eer's discovery of the gentleman's cabin f ^P^^f ^'^^"^^^^^ ^^"^^^ the It often^ccupies trSe Lngth o? the "oat Li dT^ .^.'^^"^^y- and has th e or four tiers of Wi^c^ ^u -/^^ ^"^ ^^^^ ^ase). descended into theTabrof^L'SL" Vo'rk if Too^^ •' ^^^^ unaccustomed eyes, about as long as the Burltgton ^^1 '" "'^ The Sound which has to be crossed on fT„-c ^ ^ Arcade. v.ry safe or pleasant navigation Id has^^^^^^^^^ unfortunate accidents It was ^ w^f^ ■ "^ ?^ ^^^"® of some we soon lost sight ofiand The drv w?,Ti"^\^"^ ^"^ "^^^^y- ^"^ ened towards noon After exhaus^i^Jf??""' ^^^^^^r. and bright- the larder, and the'stoctoT^^td !, ^I fav dowJtoT ^ '^ ^^ very much tired with the fatigues of y;sterdav B^if T ^^E' ^/'"^ my nap in time to hurry ud and «;pp MliTr- f ^'t. tt ^ ^°^® ^^^m Frying Pan. and otSotorious locaHtii ^Jr *^^ "^^'^ ^^^k' ^^e of famous Diedrich Kni?Scker'f hSo^^^^^^ *° ^" '^^^^'^ narrow channel, with sloping banks on ^ill^-^^t "^^""^ "**^ ^^ a pleasant villas, and madrref reSi^^^^^^^ ^^th Soon we shot in qu^fsucfessSi Vast ^"iSf^^ ^^ *"'^ ^"^ *^^^^- (how the lunatics flung urthefr canrand rn/^^ ^ madhouse Cloudless s^^^^^^^^^^^ ^:^e;^;:^^^^^^ «. no^w heJps^y^Sfd^ls^^^^^^^^^^^^^ -' trthe'^Sglf confused dow^n upon the feW'b^'lo'w" a^^^^^^^^^^ Se^Igtn^^^el^l^? lazy smoke; and in the forparonnri o , " '"f^v . ^gam, a cloud of with flappiAg sails and wavf„r/aicms^'°^='''P^' -^t^- -cheery the oppositelhore. were steSerrTboaSTaSf „ Sh ^ri^ ^''"i *° restless Insects, wire two or three CI l'"' "*^'"''^ ^""""K t*'^^^ majestic pace, 'as crea ures of ap'oX SS'' dTrt^""^, 7"? ^^"'^ puny journeys, and making for the broad sea R^^^h"' "l*''^''" heights, and islands in the rfandn^ stl t' ?^°?''; "'^'^ *'"™E less blue and bright than theTky ?!eemed to meef TW-.^^T^'^ I »ibu..._the_clinking of capsta':,s, tS rtaeta "„f Ll'^t.'Lt.l^l'J" •-■^uugb, tne ciattenng of wheels tinf??:»H in+i7^ r Z~"-'' ""^ ^-a^i^nig ^ Which life and stir. coLng ac^rt Stt^i^g^tttcrulhTneru?: I i\ I i if.! K h I I 68 American Notes and animation from its free companionship; and, sympathising with its buoyant spirits, glistened as it seemed in sport upon its surface, and hemmed the vessel round, and plashed the water high about her sides, and, floating her gallantly into the dock, flew off again to welcome other comers, and speed before them to the busy port. CHAPTER VI NEW YORK The beautiful metropolis of America is by no means so clean a city as Boston, but many of its streets have the same characteristics; except that the houses are not quite so fresh-coloured, the sign- boards are not quite so gaudy, the gilded letters not quite so golden, the bricks not quite so red, the stone not quite so white, the blinds and area railings not quite so green, the knobs and pUtes upon the street doors not quite so bright and twinkling. There are many by- streets, almost as neutral in clean colours, and positive in dirty ones, as by-streets in London; and there is one quarter, commonly called the Five Points, which, in respect of filth and wretchedness, may be safely backed against Seven Dials, or any other part of famed St. Giles's. The great promenade and thoroughfare, as most people know, is Broadway; a wide and bustling street, which, from the Battery Gardens to its opposite termination in a country road, may be four miles long. Shall we sit down in an upper floor of the Carlton House Hotel (situated in the best part of this main artery of New York), and when we are tired of looking down upon the life below, sally forth arm-in-arm, and mingle with the stream? Warm weather! The sun strikes upon our heads at this open win- dow, as though its rays were concentrate/i through a burning-glass; but the day is in its zenith, and the season an unusual one. Was there ever such a sunny street as this Broadway! The pavement stones are polished with the tread of feet until they shine again; the red bricks of the houses might be yet in the dr^r, hot kilns; and the roofs of those omnibuses look as though, if water were poured on them, they would hiss and smoke, and smell like half-quenched fires. No stint of omnibuses here ! Half a-dozen have gone by within as many minutes. Plenty of hackney cabs and coaches too; gigs, phaetons, large- wheeled tilburies, and private carriages — rather of a clumsy make, and not very different from the public vehicles, but built for the heavy roads beyond the city pavement. Negro coachmen and white; in straw hats, black hats, whifft hnfs ala»f>rl ra-nc fnt- /^o.^o. ;^ ^ — 4.^ of drab, black, brown, green, blue, nankeen, striped jean and linen; ipathising t upon its the water dock, flew o the busy American Notes 69 ean a city ,cteristics; the sign- so golden, the blinds upon the many by- iirty ones, nly called s, may be [amed St. i know, is ! Battery y be four on House !W York), iow, sally )pen win- ing-glass; Vas there itones are ed bricks s of those ley would stint of minutes. IS, large- sy make, t for the rid white; .nd linen; late) in suits of hvery. Some southern republican that, who puts his blacks in uniform, and swells with SultaS pomp and power Yondl sla'dW at tSe.:;'*^ *^' well-clipped pair oF grays^Is stop^'d-!! verv lon/in th^^^^^^^ """"^rr^'f Yorkshire groom, who has not beer nak o? ton hno?« ^I'^l' V""^ ^°^^' sorrowfully round for a companion pair of top-boots, which he may traverse the city half a year without TobSn trele^tf "' *^V"^ir ^°" ^^^^ ^'^^'^ ^e ha^rsel more colours m these ten minutes, than we should have seen -Isewhere in whatTnkT. ^^f,t.--rtP-asols! what rainbo^si^ks ^nd sa^^^^^^^^ what pmking of thm stockmgs, and pinching of thin shoes and lluttering of ribbons and silk tassels, and display of rich cloaks wi^h gaudy hoods and linings! The young gentlemen are fond you Tee of turning down their shirt-collars and cultivating thek 'wWskers' SrdtL^or'bear^nf r-'"\^'^^ ^T"^^ approlch^Te TaS?n rneir aress or bearing, being, to say the truth, humanity of auite "e whlt'^nd^nr"' 1.'^^ ^^^^ "^^ counter,'pass on Ld l?t us hohlv cloihl of K *^°'^ ^'^ ^^^^^^ y^" t^°«^ two labourers in Holiday clothes of whom one carries in his hand a crumpled scrao lt'k?aW?o7?t"on^.'ll'^^^^ 'P^" T ^ ^^^^ --^' -^"- tl- "tS looKs about tor it on all the doors and windows. theSloTtanS' lJ°" ""^l^* know them, if they were masked, by roisers wWrh fh """"^ri ^^^ ^"^^^ buttons, and their drab ^ousers. which they wear like men well used to working dresses who are easy m no others. It would be hard to keep vour model republics gomg without the countrymen and count^m^en ofThose Z^^^^"""""'; ^^'7^° ^^'^ ^^"1^ di^' ^"d delve. an^Xdge. and do ofTnt.^ Jt'^' ^"^ "^^^^ "^"^^^ ^"d ^°^ds. and execute |reat lines find o^wLfT^^f V l"'^"^"" ^°th. and sorely puzzled too, to of Lme and th.Tf -; ^ft^^ ^° ^°^"' ^^^ *^^^P ^h^em, for the love honesTmen .n^ i ^'"1* ""^ ^iK^'^^ ^^^^^ ^^"^^^s of honest service to Tha-? w;itrw r'* "^^^^ for honest bread, no matter what it be. written J I ^ ^r^ ^°* ^t the right address at last, though it is S than . ipn tI ^ ""^ *v ^ 'P^^^ t^^ ^iter better knows the use there? TtfJ; "^^ ^ ^'^' y°"^^^' ^^^ ^'"^^ business takes them there? They carry savings: to hoard up? No. They are brothers harveTand'l- '''.^ '^^ ''" "^°^^' ^"^ ^^^^^^g ^^^ hard ^r one out Thl;^ Tv? '^^'■^^'■' "^^^^ ^^"-^^ ^"0"gh to bring the other sharini'hli^^^' ^^"^7°^^/?. ^^g^*^^^^ «ide by side, contented^ 3isS.^. ^^tl ^""^ ^Y.^ ^^^^"^ ^^" ^^°th«^ t^^"^' an^ then their and vearn. ?rL ^^' k ^ P^'^'"/'^^ ^^^"^ ^^ ^^^^less in a strange land, gravS .t h^ '" ^r^'' ?^ '^y^' ^"^°"S ^^^ P^^Ple in the old God hlt^ 1, T.I- ^"^ '° they go to pay her passage back: .nd God help her and them, and every simple heart, and .11 who . „^ % comS^TS tiei^i^C^^^ '^^' ^"' '^^^ an altar:fire upon the ^ ^1 .'■ I ' 1 i l!!t ' i' 70 American Notes This narrow thoroughfare, baking and blistering in the sun, is Wall Street: the Stock Exchange and Lombard Street of New York. Many a rapid fortune has been made in this street, and many a no less rapid ruin. Some of these very merchants whom you see hanging about here now, have locked up money in their strong-boxes, like the man in the Arabian Nights, and opening them again, have found but withered leaves. Below, here by the water-side, where the bow- sprits of ships stretch across the footway, and almost thrust them- selves into the windows, lie the noble American vessels which have made their Packet Service the finest in the world. They have brought hither the foreigners who abound in all the streets: not. perhaps, that there are more here, than in other commercial" cities; but elsewhere, they have particular haunts, and you must find them out; here,' they pervade the town. We must cross Broadway again; gaining some refreshment from the heat, in the sight of the great blocks of clean ice which are being carried into shops and bar-rooms; and the pine-apples and water n--lons profusely displayed for sale. Fine streets of spacious houses here, you see!— Wall Street has furnished and dismantled many of them very often — and here a deep green leafy square. Be sure that it is a hospitable house With inmates to be affectior«ately remembered always, where they have the open door and pretty show of plants within, and where the child with laughing eyes is peeping out of window at the little dog below. You wonder what may be the use of this tall flagstaff in the by-street, with something like Liberty's head-dress on its top: so do I. But there is a passion for tall flagstaff s hereabout, and you may see its twin brother in five minutes, if you have a mind. Again across Broadway, and so — passing from the many-coloured crowd and glittering shops — into another long main street, the Bowery. A railroad yonder, see, where two stout horses trot along, drawing a score or two of people and a great wooden ark, with ease. The stores are poorer here; the passengers less gay. Clothes ready- made, and meat ready-cooked, are to be bought in these parts; and the lively whirl of carriages is exchanged for the deep rumble of carts and waggons. These signs which are so plentiful, in shape like river buoys, or small balloons, hoisted by cords to poles, and dangling there, announce, as you may see by looking up, "Oysters in every Style." They tempt the hungry most at night, for then dull candles ghmme.ing inside, illuminate these dainty words, and make the mouths of idlers water, as they read and linger. What is this dismal-fronted pile of bastard Egyptian, like an enchanter's palace in a meloaiama! — a famous prison, called The Tombs. Shall we go in? So. A long, narrow, lofty building, stove-heated as usual, with four galleries, one above the other, going round it, and communicat- ing >^y stairs. Between the two sides of each gallery, and in its centre, a bridge, for the greater convenience of crossing. On each of these bridges p?nion They 1( fires wi with dr is light dangle, A m; fellow, "Are "Yes "Are "Wei about i1 "Thoi "Whj "Whe "Wei] "Do t "Cons "Som( "Well "But ! only a pi they are affords c trials, an here iFor •'Well, "Bo y< at that li "He ra "Will ^ "All, ii The fa on its hir enters th washing, sixty; rea shake; an heads, thi has murd "How 1 "A mor "When "Nexti vv neii he sun, is STew York, nany a no ie hanging )oxes, like ave found i the bow- ust them- hich have '^e brought haps, that elsewhere, out; here, Qent from are being md water >us houses led many ! sure that nembered of plants ng out of e the use Liberty's . flagstaff s :es, if you -coloured :reet, the rot along, Arith ease, ies ready- >arts; and umble of ihape like [ dangling IN EVERY 11 candles nake the , like an illed The ual, with municat- is Centre, of these American Notes bridges sits a man: dozing or reading or falUnrr i-^ -^t ' p?nion. On each tipr ^t^ L ^L talkmg to an idle com- Are those black doors the cells?" "Yes." "Are they all full?" ab3 1" '^''^''' P''"^ "^^^ '""' ^^^ *^^^'« - ^--t' -nd no two ways ''Those at the bottom are unwholesome, surely'" Why, we do only put coloured people in 'em. That's the truth " ^ When do the prisoners take exercise?" ^ *'^"*^- Well they do without it pretty much." Do they never walk in the yard?" Considerable seldom." "Sometimes, I suppose?" ''Well, it's rare they do. They keep pretty bright without it " ^ He might walk some, perhaps— not much." Will you open one of the doors?" All, if you like." on^?s%tn1esTett'ln"? '^'t' ^^?, °"" °^ *^^ ^^^^^ ^^^ns slowly How long has he been here?" 'A month." "When will he be tried?" I'Next term." "When is that?" "Next month." fit rtf^'i f'lF ! f: ii 72 American Notes "In England, if a man be under sentence of death, even he has air and exercise at certain periods of the day." "Possible?" With what stupendous and untranslatable coolness he says this, and how loungingly he leads on to the women's side: making, as be ^oe£ a kind of iron castanet of the key and the stair-rail! Each cell door on this side has a square aperture in it. Some of the women peep anxiously through it at the sound of footsteps; others shrink away in shame. — For what offence can that lonely child, of ten or twelve years old, be shut up here? Oh! that boy? He is the son of the prisoner we saw just now; is a witness against his father; and is detained here for safe keeping, until the trial; that'^ all. But it is a dreadful place for the child to pass the long c.ays and nights in. This is rather hard treatment for a young witness, is it not? — ^What says our conductor? "Well, it an't a very rowdy life, and thaVs a fact!" Again he clinks his metal castanet, and leads us L surely away. I have a question to ask him as we go. "Pray why do they call this place The Tombs?" "Well, it's the cant name." "I know it is. Why?" "Some suicides happened here, when it was first built. I expect it come about from that." "I saw just now, that that man's clothes were scattered auout the floor of his cell. Don't you oblige the prisoners to be orderly, and put such things away? " "Where should they put 'em?" "Not on the ground surely. What do you say to hanging them up?" He stops and looks round to emphasise his answer: "Why, I say that's just it. When they had hooks they wouldhssig themselves, so they're taken out of every cell, and there's only the marks left where they used to be!" The prison-yard in which he pauses now, has been the scene of terrible performances. Into this narrow, ^grave-like place, men are brought out to die. The wretched creature stands beneath the gibbet on the ground; the rope about his neck; and when the sign is given, a weight at its other end comes running down, and swings him up into the air — a corpse. The law requires that there be present at this dismal spectacle, the judge, the jury, and citizens to the amount of twenty-five. From the community it is hidden. To the dissolute and bad, the thing remains a frightful mystery. Between the criminal and them, the p-^i son- wall is interposed as a thick gloomy veil. It is the curtain to hib bed of death, his winding-sheet, and grave. From him it shuts out IJin, and all the motives to unrepenting hardihood in that last LU sustain. There are no bold eyes to make him bold; no ruffians to American Notes Let us go forth again into the cheerful streets blue parasol which pas^d a„d reoass4/tS» Lt.? *^ '*'"*' ''«''' times while we were^sitting tht^ ^Hfe glg1:';ro:' hire "xaS an? a sfkc^'^a^" ?r',^ ^T ""^ *™*«"S upUi"d tWs''S„lg'^'= ?u^ed ttcofnen'^ half-a-doeen gentlemeu hogs have just n^ Here is a solitary swine lounging homeward bv himwif H. l,,. . St;;3Ktrg:?s^r-VeidS^"^^^ ihiro^f orrbi'^^n aTsr^tael' t rS^^^^^^^^ at a certain hour, throw.Tn,s"^f '^^^the ttTferSo^^hif day m some manner quite satisfactory to himself and .^i^ . appears at the door of his own house again at nirtT lit. ft "f"''?'''^ master of Gil Bias He is •> frer3 .!t? t ? ' '•*!.*''^ mysterious pg. having a verylaryacqu:i:Ll.rjm:ng o^^^^^^^^^ °' character, whom he rather know«! hv =t,iV It ^^ *^® ^^"^^ seldom troubles himsdf Wop'a/dTxchanS cSiS^Tv"' ''^ ?r!;rf&*^ l^-'-V^J; *"™'"S «P thetwILTsmr't^fof'SI buTh£ o^ :t?i ht^ve^nitltrfort?'- ST"* ""^""^ ^ *^"' h.ve been at that too^7IU^:Zn'^d°iXtrZ^^ ^t^Z ^^Vmi;|^7^rtt^St"^X^t^^^^^^^^ »e Sm-h7w-tTft pXr&elsiSS"^^ F^" ^» ^or.TeiTis'^d-Xi-iSli^^^ Whose carcase garnishes a butcher's drroost W h^ 1"^"^' "Such is hfe: all flesh is porkl'' bSs hi nose ,V. fh.\. ^''"*' °"* They are the city scavengers, these pigs. Ugly brutes th^v ar«. having, for the most part, scanty brown Lckslil.^fi;!r!i ^.?j horsehair trunks: spotted'with u';iwhoTesomf &^^^^ 1^'^ have long gaunt legs, too, and such peaked snoutf that ? one 'V +h could be persuaded to sit for his profile, nobody w^juldreco^isi I ^ a pig's likeness. They are never attended utS^ or Th^^^ ^^ '* ^°^ caught, but are thrown upon their own Xu^ces n ;ariv^ir' °^' become preternaturally knowing in consequence Fv^^t^ 5^- u^ ^""^ where he lives, much letter thL anyTdrcouM l^r^.^^^A^.^? bed hv^'iof ^''''T^ is closing in, you will see them roam'ing towards bed by^scores, eatmg their way to the last. Occasionally, some ye^ ua 74 American Notes Wf 1 1: among them who has over-eaten himself, or has been worried by dogs, trots shrinkingly homeward, like a prodigal son: but this is a rare case: perfect self-possession and self-reliance, and immovable com- posure, being their foremost attributes. The streets and shops are lighted now; and as the eye travels down the long thoroughfare, dotted with bright jets of gas, it is reminded of Oxford Street, or Piccadilly. Here and there a flight of broad stone cellar-steps appears, and a painted lamp directs you to the Bowling Saloon, or Ten-Pin alley; Ten-Pins being a game of mingled chance and skill, invented when the legislature passed an act forbidding Nine-Pins. At other downward flight of steps, are other lamps, marking the whereabouts of oyster-cellars — pleasant retreats, say I: not only by reason of their wonderful cookery of oysters, pretty nigh as large as cheese-plates (or for thy dear sake, heartiest of Greek Professors !) , but because of all kinds of eaters of fish, or flesh, or fowl, in these latitudes, the swallowers of oysters alone are not gregarious; but subduing thvimselves, as it were, to the nature of what they work in, and copying the coyness of the thing they eat, do sit apart in curtained boxes, and consort by twos, not by two hun- dreds. But how quiet the streets are! Are there not itinerant bands; no wind or stringed instruments? No, not one. By day, are there no Punches, Fantoccini, Dancing-dogs, Jugglers, Conjurers, Orches- trinas, or even Barrel-organs? No, not one. Yes, I remember one. One barrel-organ and a dancing-monkey — sportive by nature, but fast fading into a dull, lumpish monkey, of the Utilitarian school, Beyond that, nothing lively; no, not so much as a white mouse in a twirling cage. Are there no amusements? Yes. There is a lecture-room across the way, from v/hich that glare of light proceeds, and there may be evening service for the ladies thrice a week, or oftener. For the young gentlemen, there is the counting-house, the store, the bar-ioom: the latter, as you may see through these windows, pretty full. Hark! to the clinking sound of hammers breaking lumps of ice, and to the cool gurgling of the pounded bits, as, in the process of mixing, they are poured from glass to glass! No amusements? What are these suckers of cigars and swallowers of strong drinks, whose hats and legs we see in every possible variety of twist, doing, but amusing themselves? What are the fifty newspapers, which those precocious urchins are bawling down the street, and which are kept filed within, what are they but amusements? Not vapid, waterish amusements, but good strong stuff; dealing in round abuse and blackguard names; pulling off the roofs of private houses, as the Halting Devil did in Spain; pimping and pandering for all degrees of vicious taste, and gorging with coined lies the most voracious maw; imputing to every man in public life the coarsest and the vilest motives; scaring away from the stabbed and prostrate body-politic, every Samaritan of clear conscience and good deeds; and setting on, with yell and American Notes 75 whistle and the clapping of foul hands, the vilest vermin and worst birds of prey. — No amusements! Let us go on again; and passing this wilderness of an hotel with stores about its base, like some Continental theatre, or the London Opera House shorn of its colonnade, plunge into the Five Points But It IS needful, first, that we take as our escort these two heads of the police, whom you would know for sharp and well-trained officers If you met them in the Great Desert. So true it is. that certain pursuits, wherever carried on, will stamp men with the same character. These two might have been begotten, born, and bred in Bow btreet. We have seen no beggars in the streets by night or day; but of other kinds of strollers, plenty. Poverty, wretchedness, and vice are rife enough where we are going now. This is the place: these narrow ways, diverging to the right and left, and reekmg every^vhere with dirt and filth. Such lives as are led here bear the same fruits here as elsewhere. The coarse and bloated faces at the doors, have counterparts at home, and all the wide world over Debauchery has made the very houses prematurely old. See how the rotten beams are tumbling down, and how the patched and broken windows seem to scowl dimly, like eyes that have been hurt in drunken frays. Many of those pigs live here. Do they ever wonder why their masters walk upright in lieu of going on all-fours? and why they talk instead of grunting? So far. nearly every house is a low tavern; and on the bar-room walls, are coloured prints of Washington, and Queen Victoria of fu^uli' ^""^ the American Eagle. Among the pigeon-holes that hold the bottles, are pieces of plate-glass and coloured paper, for there is m some sort, a taste for decoration, even here And as seamen irequent these haunts, there are maritime pictures by the dozen- of ^f^K^^K ^etween sailors and their lady-loves, portraits of William of the ballad and his Black-Eyed Susan; of Will Watch, the Bo?d Smuggler; of Paul Jones the Pirate, and the like: on which the painted eyes of Queen Victoria, and of Washington to boot, rest in as strange companionship, as on most of the scenes that are enacted in their wondering presence. What place is this, to which the squalid street conducts us? A kind of square of leprous houses, some of which are attainable onlv bv crazy wooden stairs without. What lies beyond this tottering flight of steps that creak beneath our tread?-a miserable room, lighted by one dim candle, and destitute of all comfort, save that which mav knees: his forehead hidden m his hands. "What ails that man?'' asks I Ton "''T^'* ?'^'''' T"T'" ^' ^""^^^y ^^Pli^«' without looking S Conceive the fancies of a feverish brain in such a place as this' ^' wm" ?^^^Pitc^-dark stairs, heedful of a false footing on the tremui.ng L,oarus, anu grope your way with me into this wolfish den where neither ray of light nor breath of air, appears to come A m r i>i 76 American Notes negro lad, startled from his sleep by the officer's voice — he knows it well — but comforted by his assurance that he has not come on business, officiously bestirs himself to light a candle. The match flickers for a moment, and shows great mounds of dusty rags upon the ground; then dies away and leaves a denser darkness than before, if there can be degrees in such extremes. He stumbles down the stairs and presently comes back, shading a flaring taper with his hand. Then the mounds of rags are seen to be astir, and rise slowly up, and the floor is covered with heaps of negro women, waking from their sleep: their white teeth chattering, and their bright eyes glistening and winking on all sides with surprise and fear, like the countless repetition of one astonished African face in some strange mirror. Mount up these other stairs with no less caution (there are traps, and pitfalls here, for those who are not so well escorted as ourselves) into the housetop; where the bare beams and rafters meet overhead, and calm night looks down through the crevices in the roof. Open the door of one of these cramped hutches full of sleeping negroes. Pah ! They have a charcoal fire within; there is a smell of singeing clothes, or flesh, so close they gather round the brazier; and vapours issue forth that blind and suffocate. From every corner, as you glance about you in these dark retreats, some figure crawls half-awakened, as if the judgment-hour were near at hand, and every obscene grave were giving up its dead. Where dogs would howl to lie, women, and men, and boys slink off to sleep, forcing the dislodged rats to move away in quest of better lodgings. Here too are lanes and alleys, paved with mud knee-deep, under- ground chambers, where they dance and game; the walls bedecked with rough designs of ships, and forts, and flags, and American eagles out of number: ruined houses, open to the street, whence, through wide gaps in the walls, other ruins loom upon the eye, as though the world of vice and misery had nothing else to show; hideous tenements which take their name from robbery and murder; all that is loathsome, drooping, and decayed is here. Our leader has his hand upon the latch of "Almack's." and calls to us from the bottom of the steps; for the assembly-rc ti of the Five Point fashionables is approached by a descent. Shall we go in.' It is but a moment. Heyday! the landlady of Almack's thrives! A buxom fat mulatto woman, with sparkling eyes, whose head is daintily ornamented with a handkerchief of many colours. Nor is the landlord much behind her in his finery, being attired in a smart blue jacket, like a ship's steward, with a thick gold ring upon his little finger, and round his neck a gleaming golden watch-guard. How glad he is to see us ! What will we please to call for? A dance? It shall be done directly, sir; "a regular break-down." The corpulent black fiddler, and his friend who plays the tambourine, sed orchestra in which they 4-1. - ^£ J.-U^ _. 11 American Notes *jm sit. and play a lively measure. Five or six couple come uoon the flnnr marshaUed by a lively young negro, who is tL^t of tKsemSl' and the greatest dancer known. He never lPa^/,«« ^« r^li . ^^"^^'y- faces, and is the delight of all thTresTwlTo ^r ntort"r^r^^^^^^ incessantly Among the dancers are two younf mulX gfrls with arge, black, droopmg eyes, and head-gear aftir th^fashfon ^f th^ hostess, who are as shy, or feign to be. L though tLy never da^^^^^^ st^Sh1ng\^r .^ong^^^^^^^ -- ^^^ ^^-^^^ ong about It that the sport beginsTlangu^sl whe^^uddenlv th^ lively hero dashes in to the rescue. Instantly the fiddler grlns^ and goes at It tooth and nail; there is new energy in the tambourW- T laughter m the dancers; new smiles in theYaidlady n^t con^^^^^^^ in the landlord; new brightness in the very candles Sin aufK^ double shuffle, cut and cro'ss-cut; snapping hfs fmge s roS'h s e^vt ' turning m his knees, presenting the backs of his iL inTront SDinTn^ fh.'^Sn.to^'' *°f ^"^ *^".^^^ "^^ ^«*hi"g but the mar?s finSrs on the tambourme; dancmg with two left legs, two right legs two wooden lf;,Z\w""t ^^^^S^riP""^ ^^^^-^11 ««^ts of legfand noTegs- what IS this to him? And in what walk of life, or dince of Hfe dnTI man ever get such stimulating applause as thundere abm t' hfr^ when, having danced his partner off her feet, and h^mse^rtoo he finishes by leaping gloriously on the bar-counter and call w' }Z somethmg to drink, with the chuckle of a mmion of counterfe^S m Crows, in one mimitable sound! ^"""xerieit jim atmosphe^e^rf^if.^h"'^ distempered parts, is fresh after the stifling atmosphere of the houses; and now. as we emerge into a br >adf.r What! do you thrust your common offenders against tho t,„t,,.. discplme of the town, into such holes as thesef Do Srand women su^'oTn Jed rrhaTo" ^'''^'^' "^ """'^ *" ""S"^' » ^rfec?dSe™; surrounded by the noisome vapours which encircle that flavin,; ten^hrwh'^''* f •""''• ^°<1 breathing this fi'?hy and oSi vf stench! Why such mdecent and disgusting dangeons as these c^N. Lo"hfm S'" "^^ '^' ""* ^^'^"^ ^^^"^ *^ "™'^^' LOOK at them, man— you, who see them every night and keen th^ be^w^h ''^ T ""■".* *'y *^«? '°° y°^ know-how dktas are madi betrata^rst^gnrntp"*''^^^ '"^^ '"'■"^'' — ^^-- '-?' ^ locted''„!if f''°?h* ^°^- "^ "^^ ^'^ five-and-twenty young women It 1,a?H^V'2 ™7.5!'.^*- °- *™«. ^'nd you'd hardl^ reaTs^ T^ n"l\ — ' r""^ "^ciu wcic among 'em. In God s name I shut the door upon the wretched creature who is 78 American Notes m It now, and put its screen before a place, quite unsurpassed in all the vice, neglect, and devilry, of the worst old town in Europe. Are people really left all night, untried, in those black sties> -Ev jry night. The watch is set at seven in the evening. The magi - .te o'jcns his court at ^ve in the morning. That is the earliest horr ;t wii oh the first prisoner can be released; and if an officer appear ags . . m he IS not taken out till nine o'clock or ten.— But if any one an. them die m the interval, as one man did, not long ago? Then he .^ half- eaten by the rats in an hour's time; as that man wiiS- '-1 there an end. What is this intolerable tolling of great bells, and crashing of wheels, and shouting in the distance? A fire. And what that deep red light m the opposite direction? Another fire. And what these charred And blackened walls we stand before? A dwelling where a fire has been. It was more than hinted, in an official report, not long ago that some of these conflagrations were not wholly accidental, and' tfcat speculation and enterprise found a field of exertion, even in flames but be this as it may, there was a fire last night, there are two to- night, and you may lay an even wager there will be at least one to-morrow. So, carrying that with us for our comfort, let us sav' Good night, and climb up-stairs to bed. ' One day, during my stay in New York, I paid a visit to the different public institutions on Long Island, or Rhode Island- I forget which One of them is a Lunatic Asylum. The building is handsome; and is remarkable foi- a spacious and elegant staircase. The whole structure is not yet finished, but it is already one of considerable size and extent, and is capable of accommodating a very large number of I cannot say that I derived much comfort from the inspection of this charity. The different wards might have been cleaner and better ordered; I saw nothing of that salutary system which had impressed me so favourably elsewhere; and everything had a lounging, listless madhouse air. which was very painful. The moping idiot, cowering down with long dishevelled hair; the gibbering maniac, with his hideous laugh and pointed finger; the vacant eye, the fierce wild face the gloomy picking of the hands and lips, and munching of the nails there they were all, without disguise, in naked ugliness and horror In the dinmg-room a bare, dull, dreary place, with nothing for the eye to rest on but the empty walls, a woman was locked up alone. She was bent, they told me. on committing suicide. If anything could have strengthened her in her resolution, it would certainly have been the insupportable monotony of such an existence The terrible crowd with which these halls and galleries were filled so shocked me. that I abridged my stay within the shortest limits' and declined to see that portion of the building in which the re- tractory and violent were under closer restraint I ha^/o n^ 'i—b^ that tne gentleman who presided over this establishment at the time American Notes yg I write of, was competent to manage it. and had done ail in hia power to promote its usefulness: but will it be Meved tLT .k! oTffflft V'"?H°' ''^rju'^^^'"^ ^^ ^-"-d even into Js sad Xe w4h are t'o watcTn'"' humanity? Will it be believed that Vhe lyS wmcn are to watch over and control the wanderings of minds on u^ich the most dreadful visitat^m to which our nature is exposeS Wi Vh be beHevrtha't%t"" "' --« -etched sicIe'i'pXics? It De Deiieved that the governor of such a house ai thU i. K'2^''' h"*^ '^•'P°'""^' '">'' "^h^-^gcd perpetaally a^ Parties thTs way or thS^'A^h" ^ '!lf despic'able'^eWrc.^ks Le Wow^ I never turned my back upon it with feelings of such d^o dk^n!; ,nH measureless contempt, as when I crossed tUthreshofd'oUh^i^lrd' Ho1,se^ ?Saf iftn*"'^ ^IS'" ^'f ''""'"8 '^ *"°ther called the Alms rn:tStfon'afso:°lSrging^ TStT whe'l'^T ^'"\^*"' '^ ' '"^e thousand poor.. It wa! "bld.y vlSieXt^d bad?^ UghSd'^I^L? good and eviftsrnrrm1xed\'n1rumb,iZprget\:r^^ =""°""' °' nu[L?LXed"fdiZrstit*ttY'S^H^°"°«°'^^ and I can the more easUv L^dii if ? 'f '"'"^ '* '' ™" conducted; usually are.1n AmerSi of that L',.??"? '"°^'"? ''°"' ""■"^'"' ^W rememUaU l^Crrnlanl yZg c^WreT '" *^ "^''"^ ^'^''^ the' MLT^:il'i:^ro::rtT:^Jyj:Z'' *" ^^ ^oat be.ongi„g to itpLessS/a-n^^tjrSg^-lSf^^^^^^^^^^^ ;eLtb-^Tht^ttr:rSo?st'tS:^ iS^k- " ' hanri TKo^o K • ^^I'uur m certam stone-q Jiand. The day bemg very wet indeed, this labour w Jc„o^.„^„. __ , "ic prisoners were in their cpll ictuicj, hn^^lZ\lAr ^^"^ w "■ u ^ ''f "^^ arrangements for securing a passage home in th^ George Washington packet ship, which was advertised to sail m June: that being the month in which I had determined if America '''' accident in the course of my ramblings, to leive I never thought that going back to England, returning to all who are dear to me. and to pursuits that have insensibly grSwn to be a part of my nature, I could have felt so much sorrow as I endured when I parted at last, on board this ship, with the friends who had accompanied me from this city. I never thought the name of anv place, so far away and so lately known, could ever associate itself in my mmd with the crowd of affectionate remembrances that now cluster about it. There are those in this city who would brighten to me, the darkest wmter-day that ever glimmered and went out in Lapland; and before whoL3 presence even Home grew dim. when they and I exchanged that painful word wnich mingles with our everv thought ajid deed; which haunts our cradle-heads in infancy, and closes up the vista of oui lives in age. 1^ 1 CHAPTER VIl m PHILADELPHIA. AND ITS SOLITARY PRISOr The journey from New York to Philadelphia, is made by railroad and two femes; and usually occupies between five and six hours It was a fine evening when we were passengers in the train: and watch- ing the bngLc sunset from a little window near the door by which we sat. my attention was attracted to a remarkable appearance issuing from the windows of the gentleman s car immediately in front of us which I siinnospr! fnr cnme. +iwyc. ,.ra« : j »_■' . ' mdustrjous persons mside. rippmg open feather beds, and giving the .* ''% 82 American Notes feathers to the wind. At length it occurred to me that they were onlv spitting, which was indeed the case; though how any number of passengers which it was possible for that car to contain, could have maintained such a playful and incessant shower of expectoration I am still at a loss to understand: notwithstanding the experience 'in all sahvatory phenomena which I afterwards acquired I made acquaintance, on this journey, with a mild and modest young quaker. who opened the discourse by informing me, in a grave whisper, that his grandfather was the inventor of cold-drawn castor oil I mention the circumstance here, thinking it probable that this is the first occasion on which the valuable medicine in question was ever used as a conversational aperient. We reached the city, late that night. Looking out of my chamber- window, before gomg to bed, I saw, on the opposite side of the wav a handsome building of white marble, which had a mournful ghost- like aspect, dreary to behold. I attributed this to the sombre inilu- ence of the night, and on rising in the morning looked out again expecting to see its steps and portico thronged with groups of people passing m and out. The door was still tight shut, however; the^same cold cheerless air prevailed; and the building looked as if the marble statue of Don Guzman could alone have any business to transact within its gloomy walls. I hastened to inquire its name and purpose and tht-n my surprise vanished. It was the tomb of many fortunes' toe^Great Catacomb of investment; the Memorable United States The stoppage of this Bank, with all its ruinous consequences had cast (as I was told on every side) a gloom on Philadelphia, under the depressing effect of which it yet laboured. It certainly did seem rather dull and out of spirits. .y ^ ^ seem .u^i\% handsome city, but distractingly regular. After walking about it for an hour or two. I felt that I would have given the world for a crooked street. The collar of my coat kppeared to stiffen and h.t /v!"" I ""^ hat to expand, beneath its quakery influence. My hair shrunk in a sleek short crop, my hands folded themselve upon my breast of their own calm accord, and thoughts of taking lodgings m Mark Lane over against the Market Pla^.e. and of m^Ving a large tortune by speculations in corn, came over me involunta i Philadelphia IS most bountifully provided wit) .freshw^ic- which is showered and jerked about, and turned on, and r. ured off eveiv- where. The Waterworks, which are on a height iv.ar the citv are?o '.ess ornamental than useful, being tastefully laid r t a«« a oublic garden, and kept in the best and neatest ord.^r. Th nver is dammed at this point and forced by its ov;n power into certain bif h tanks or re.«;ervoirs. whence the whole city, to the top stories o. the houses is supplied at a very trifling expense. ""ubcb, is I'here are various public institutions. Among thera - mo ,t excellent Hospital-a quaker establishment, but not sectarian in thf great -enexxts u couxcrs; a quiet, quaint old library, named atier Frc^nklin- American Notes 83 a handsome Exchange and Post Office; and so forth. In connection w th the quaker Hospital, there Is a picture by West, which is exh^ b ted for the benefit of the funds of the institiition. Th^Iubleci is our f f r"i. 'f^'"'^ *^^ 'If^' ^^^ '^ ''' P^^h^Ps. as favourable a spedmen of the master as can be seen anywhere. Whether this be hi^h nr^ praise, depends upon the reader's taste. ^"'^'^ ^^'^ ^^ ^'^^ ^^ ^ow In the same room, there is a very charar+^ristir anH Uf^ n portrait of Mr. Sully, a distinguished AmerSn'artf^^^^ ^"^ ^'^'-^'^' My stay m Philadelphia was very short but what I ..w .f •. T'^K' r'^'V'^'''' Treating S its g^nerll char^^^ taste and criticism, savouring ratL of thoi^c;on?.t^^ upon the same themes, in conSctLn t^h ShfSsS^^^^^^^ Musical Glasses, of which we read in the Vic^r of Wak?fi^' Near h^ CntZ ^'^'''^ f k"^^^ unfinished marble structure' ? the G^a^d College, founded by a deceased gertleman of that name and 0I enormous wealth, which, if comoL-ted arr .rHincr +^ ^vT ■■ t design will be perhaps the ricS^idifice"oTmode?„ dmes' Buft"h bequest IS involved in legal disputes, and pending thSi the work has stopped; so that like many other great undertakin"^^^ A^ • 'T '^' '' I^*"^' 8°'"8 to be done one^f these Xs than dotnTnow ^"s^:^ ^ s?t:r.::i?nrr:r "^ -^^- In its intention. I am well convinced that it is kind humane anrl' meant for retormation; but I am persuaded that those X demised whn 'r*'"^.°^^"'"^ Discipline, .n.l those benevolenrgLtiemen who carry it into execv,,tion. do not know what it is that thev are domg. I believe that very few men are capable of estimating th.^ immense amount of torture and agony whic^h this dreiruf punish! ment. prolonged for year., inflicts upon the sufferers; and in guessTne at It myself, ard in reasoning Lorn v.hat I have seen wri?tf n uDon their faces, and what to my ce.tn^ln knowledge they ^eel w thl^ I^am on y the more convinced th.f there is a depth of iexribllenduranS in It which none bu. the sm . .jrs themselves can fathom and whth no man has a right t. ir.lict upon his fellow-cxeature I hoM t^^^ slow and daily tamperiag with the mysteries of the brain f o be im measurably worse than any (orture of the body and because Ss ghastly sigr. .nd tokens are not so palpable to the eye and sense of touch as scars upon the flesh; because its wounds are not nno^ f i?l sumce. and it extorts few cries that human ears can hear thTefor: I the more denounce 1- as a secret punishment which slumberW h... amty iH not re a ^p to stay. I hesitated once. debaW S myself, whether, u • had the power of saying "Yes" or ''No - T ., , ,..io-. ir ^o t>.- r leu 111 jcrtain cases, where the tprmJ,<-'^ I beli:S?raad"h:,"^ uiiuu at peace, in a word, you are happy here?" saiH nn« r^f ^, companions. She struggled-she did struggle vei^ hard Zanswe? ■^^ v..«.i..a..,., uu. ic was natural that she should sometimes long to go i J 88 American Notes out of that one cell: she could not help that," she sobbed, poor thing! I went from cell to cell that day; and every face I saw, or word I heard, or incident I noted, is present to my mind in all its painful- ness. But let me pass them by, for one, more pleasant, glance of a prison on the same plan which I afterwards saw at Pittsburg. When I had gone over thai in the same manner, I asked the governor if he had any person in his charge who was shortly going out. He had one, he said, whose time was up next day; but he had only been a prisoner two years. Two years! I looked back through two years of my own life — out of jail, prosperous, happy, surrounded by blessings, comforts, good fortune — and thought how wide a gap it was, and how long those two years passed in solitary captivity would have been. I have the face of this man, who was going to be released next day, before me now. It is almost more memorable in its happiness than the other faces in their misery. How easy and how natural it was for him to say that the system was a good one; and that the time went "pretty quick— considering;" and that when a man once felt that he had offended the law, and must satisfy it, "he got along, somehow:" and so forth ! "What did he call you back to say to you, in that strange flutter? " J asked of my conductor, when he had locked the door and joined me in the passage. "Oh! That he was afraid the soles of his boots were not fit for walking, as they were a good deal worn when he came in; and that he would thank me very much to have them mended, ready." Those boots had been taken off his feet, and put away with the rest of his clothes, two years before ! I took the opportunity of inquiring how they conducted themselves immediately before going out; adding that I presumed they trembled very much. "Well, it's not so much a trembling," was the answer — "though they do quiver — as a complete derangement of the nervous system. They can't sign their names to the book; sometimes can't even hold the pen; look about 'em without appearing to know why, or where they are; and sometimes get up and sit down again, twenty times in a minute. This is when they're in the office, where they are taken with the hood on, as they were brought in. When they get outside the gate, they stop, and look first one way and then the other; not knowing which to take. Sometimes they stagger as if thev .ore drunk, and sometimes are forced to lean against the fence, they're so bad: — but they clear off in course of time." As I walked aJhong these solitary cells, and looked at the faces cf the men within them, I tried to picture to myself the thoughts and feelings natural to their condition. I imagined the hood just taken off, and the scene of their captivity disclosed to them in all ics dismal monotony. At first, the man is stunned. His confinement is a hideous vision; and his there ab and ban the trap work. "C He ha every no years th; piercing : knowledj narrow r spirits te Again starts up another c There i remembe here him could not is the nea both dire( or is he -v long? Is '. Does he tl Scarcel conjures moving al certain of other side Day after night, he never cha them — an hidden fe; makes hin The we; funeral; ai have some their smoo which ton head bene lor