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Un des symboles suivants apparaftra sur la derni«ire image de cheque microfiche, selon Ie cas: Ie symbols «► signifie 'A SUIVRE". la symbols V signifie FIN". Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diegrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre filmis i des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque Ie document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul ciich6, il est fiimA d partir de I'angle supArieur gauche, de gauche d droite. et de haut en bas, en prenant Ie nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammt^^ suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 » I f. r AMERICAN NOTES CHARLES DICKENS: Born iSiz-Died 1870 Editor's Note Americans quickly became enthusiastic admirers of Dickens's works. It was one of the reasons which urged htm to make his first visit to the United States— the other {and usual) reason being the search for copy. He went he saw, he criticised. It is an old story now how the Americans were chagrined by his criticisms, and how resentment softened and died away in the general apprccia- tion of the man and his genius. That the temporary ilU feeling was so soon forgotten is a tribute alike to the hosts and to the guest— who had "no desire to court, by any adventitious means, the popular applause." The visit that resulted in American Notes was made in - ^42 ; and the book was published the same year. Frankly written as are these Notes, it will be seen from the following Life that Dickens was much more critical and outspoken of Americans, their habits and institutions tn his letters to Forster. But when he visited America for the second and last time, he noted "amazing changes"— as he acknowledged in the 1868 postscript to the Notes By then, resentment had given way to "unsurpassable politeness, delicacy, sweet temper, hospitality," etc., on the part of the criticised Americans. Since 1868 there 'have been many more amazing changes in the United States : but there has been no change in the affection for Charles Dickens and his works. This edition is printed from the one carefully corrected by the author in 1867-68. AMERICAN NOTES BY CHARLES DICKENS LONDON: HAZELL, WATSON 8c VINEY, LTD. t fa c ii Vi e: ai ii w m in I WJ to wi PREFACE My readers have opportunities of judging for themselves whether the influences and tendencies which I distrusted in America had. at that time, any existence but in my imagination. They can examine for themselves whether there has been anything in the public career of that country since, at home or abroad, which suggests that those influences and tendencies reaUy did exist. As they find the fact, they will judge me. If they discern any evidences of wrong-going, in any direction that I have indicated, they will acknowledge that I had reason in what I wrote. If they discern no such indications, they will consider me altogether mistaken— but not wilfully. Prejudiced. I am not. and never have been, otherwise than in favour of the United States. ^ - - .xany friends in America, I feel a grateful interest in th.^ _ , t hope and believe it will successfully work out a pre ' highest importance to the whole human race. To re], s viewing America with ill-nature, coldness, or animosuv, erely to do a very foolish thing : which is always a very easy one. AMERICAN NOTES CHAPTER I GOING AWAY I SHALL r ver forget the one-fourth serious and three-fourths condcal astomshnient with which, on the morning of the third of Januarv eighteen-hundreQ-and-forty-two. I opened the door of. and put mv w? '"^' ^ '«tfte-room" on board the Britannia steam-packet^ ^elve hundred tons burthen per register, bound for HalifL and Boston, and carr ng Her Majesty's mails. That this state-room had been specially engaged for "Charl*»s Dickens. Esquire, and Lady," was rendered suflP vn .ly clear even to my scared intellect by a very small manuscript, .r.nouncinK the fact which was pinned on a very flat quilt, covering a very thin mattress' spread like a surgical plaster on a most inaccessible shelf But that this was the state-room concerning which Charies Dickens. Esquire and Lady, had held daily and nightly conferences for at least four months preceding: that this .)uld by any possibility be that small snug chamber of the imagination, which Charies Dickens. Esquire with the spirit of prophecy strong upon him. had always foretold would contain at least one little sofa, and which his ladv with a frn^lh ^f f °'* magnificent sense of its limited dimensions, had from the first opined would not hold more than two enormous oort- manteaus m some odd corner out of sight (portmanteaus which could now no more be got m at the door, not to say stowed away than a giraffe could be persuaded or forced into a flower-pot): that this ?.if 7k "'^l^^'i'S^^^' tho^o^ghly hopeless, and profoundly prepo^! terous box. had the remotest reference to. or connection with those chaste and pretty, not to say gorgeous little bowers, sketched by a masterly hand, m the highly varnished lithographic plan hangC up m the agent's counting-house in the city of London that thif Sfu tsf ort?°^' r ^? ^^ ""^^^"^ ^"* ^ Pleasan^ficrion and cheerful est of the captain's, invented and put in practice for the better rehsh and enjoyment of the real state-room presently to S disdosed:-these were truths which I really could no- for tS moment, brmg my mind at all to bear upon or comprehend Lid I sat down upon a kind of horsehair slab, or perch, of which there were two withm; and looked, without any expression of c^ntenanS whatever, at some friends who had come on board with us aLd who 319* o 10 American Notes were crushing their faces into all manner of shapes by endeavourinff to squeeze them through the small doorway. We had experienced a pretty smart shock before coming below which, but that we were the most sanguine people living might have' 7repared us for the worst. The imaginative artist to whom I have already made allusion, has depicted in the same great work a chamber of almost interminable perspective, furnished, as Mr Rob- ms would say, in a style of more than Eastern splendour and filled (but not mconveniently so) with groups of ladies and gentleman in the very highest state of enjoyment and vivacity. Before descending into the bowels of the ship, we had passed from the deck into a long narrow apartment, not unlike a gigantic hearse with windows in the sides; having at the upper end a melancholy stove, at which three or four chilly stewards were warming their hands; while on either side extending down its whole dreary length, was a long, long table over each of which a rack, fixed to the low roof, and stuck full of dnnkmg-glasses and cruet-stands, hinted dismallv at rolling seas and heavy weather. I had not at that time seen the ideal presentment of this chamber which has since gratified me so much, but I observed that one of our friends who had made the arrangements for our voyage, turned pale on entering, retreated on the friend behind him smote his forehead involuntarily, and said below his breath "Im- possible ! it cannot be !" or words to that effect. He recovered himself however by a great effort, and after a preparatory cough or two cried with a ghastly smile which is still before me, looking at the same time round the walls, "Ha! the breakfast-room, steward— eh?" We aJ' foresaw what the answer must be: we knew the agony he suffered He had often spoken of the saloon; had taken in and lived upon the pictorial idea; had usually given us to understand, at home that to form a just conception of it, it would be necessary to multiply the size and furniture of an ordinary drawing-room by seven, and then fall short of the reality. When the man in reply avowed the truth- the blunt, remorseless, naked truth; "This is the saloon, sir"— he actuallv reeled beneath the blow. ■' In persons who were so soon to part, and interpose between their else daily communication the formidable barrier of many thousand miles of stormy space, and who were for that reason anxious to cast no other cloud, not even the passing shadow of a moment's dis- appointment or discomfiture, upon the short interval of happy companionship that yet remained to them— in persons so situated the natural transirion from these first surprises was obviously into peals of hearty laughter, and I can report that I, for one. being still seated upon the slab or perch before menrioned, roared outright until the vessel rang again. Thus, in less than two minutes after com- ing upon it for the first time, we all by common consent agreed that this state-room was the pleasantest and most facetious and capital contrivance possible; and that to have had it one inch larger would have been quite a disagreeable ana deplorable state of thi"a« At,h American Notes u with this: and with showing how.-by very nearly closing the door and twining in and out like serpents, and by counting the little w^h' mg slab as standing-room,-we could manage to insinuate four p^^l^ S^ H wi^'^'if *'^'' ^°A""t^«ating each other to observe how vTr^ airy. It was (in dock) and how there was a beautiful port-hole wS could be kept open all day (weather permitting), and^how therrwas quite a large bull's-eye just over the loakinglglass which wouW render shavmg a perfectly easy and delightful process when the ship didn't roll too much); we arrived, at last, at the unanimous conclusion that it was rather spacious than otherwise: thoughTdo verily believe that, deducting the two berths, one above the other than which nothing smaller for sleeping in was eve- made excent have the door behind, and shoot their fares out. like sacks of coaS upon the pavement. ^ Having settled this point to the perfect satisfaction .f all parties concerned and unconcerned, we sat down round the fire in the ladies' cabin-just to try the effect. It was rather dark, certainly; but some- body said, of course it would be light, at sea. " a proposition to whTch we all assented; echoing "of course, of course;" though it would be exceedingly difficult to say why we thought so. I rfmember too when we had discovered and exhausted another topic of consolation m the circumstance of this ladies' cabin adjoining our state-room? anS the consequently immense feasibiHty of sitting there at all times and seasons and had fallen into a momLtary silLce. lefning our faces on our hands and looking at the fire, one of our party said with the solemn air of a man who had made a discovery. ''What a relish mu led claret will have down here!" which appeaJ^d to strike us ^1 most forciDly; as though there were something spicy and high- flavoured m cabins, which essentially improved that composition and rendered it quite incapable of perfection anywhere else ' Ihere was a stewardess, too. actively engaged in producing clean fnlln 'f n'f 'r'°'^? '^°"^ *^^ ^^'y '^''^''^' theSas. an^d fiom hSrh^ . °' '"'.'^ °* '"'^ ^'^^"^ mechanism, that it made one^ head ache to see them opened one after another, and rendered it finH .ht^^''*'^'*'"^"^''.""''*^"'^^" *° ^«"°^ ^^' proceedings and to find that every nook and corner and individual piece of furniture was something else besides what it pretended to be. and was a mere tra^ wa^ itT&uStf jTn^e^ °^ '''''' ''^-^'- ^'^^ ostensiblT^ur^SS God bless that stewardess for her piously fraudulent account of January voyages! God bless her for her clear recoflectton of the compamon passage of last year, when nobody was ill. and everybody dancing from morning to night, and it was "a run" of tweTv7davs and a piece of the purest frolic, and delight, and jolhty i^Arhappiness be with her for her bright face and her pleasant Scotch tongu^whrch had sounds of old Homp m i+ fr.f »«,, ^^n^... 2. „ ^s^jc, wui^^^ predictions of fair wmds and fine weather (all wrong, or I shouldn^t 12 American Notes be half so fond of her); and for the ten thousand small fragments of genuine womanly tact, by which, without piecing them ellboratelv together, and patchmg them up into shape and form and case and pointed apphcation. she nevertheless did plainly show that all youne mothers on one side of the Atlantic were near and close at hand to their little children left upon the other; and that what seemed to the umnitiated a serious journey, was. to those who were in the secret a mere frolic, to be sung about and whistled at! Light be her heart and gay her merry eyes, for years 1 The state-room had grown pretty fast; but by this time it had expanded into something quite bulky.. and almost boasted a bav- wmdow to view the sea from. So we went upon deck again in high spirits; and there, everything was in such a state of bustle and active preparation, that the blood quickened its pace, and whirled throueh one s veins on that clear frosty morning with involuntary mirthful- ness. For every gallant ship was riding slowly up and down and every little boat was splashing noisily in the water; and knots of people stood upon the wharf, gazing with a kind of "dread delight" • on the far-famed fast American steamer; and one party of men were 'taking m the milk." or. in other words, getting the cow on board; and another were filling the icehouses to the very throat with fresl. provisions; With butchers'-meat and garden-stuff Dale sucking-pigs, calves' heads in scores, beef, veal, and pork, and poultrv out of all proportion; and others were coiling ropes and busy with oakum yarns; and others were lowering heavy packages into the hold- and the purser s head was barely visible as it loomed in a state of exquisite perplexity from the midst of a vast pile of passengers' luggage; and there seemed to be nothing going on anywhere or uppermost in the mind of anybody, but preparations for this mig'htv voyage. This, with the bright cold sun. the bracing air, the crisrlv- curlmg water, the thin white crust of morning ice upon the decks which crackled with a sharp and cheerful sound beneath the lightest tread, was irresistible. And when, again upon the shore, we turned and saw from the vessel's mast her name signalled in flags of iovous colours, and fluttering by their side the beautiful American banner with its stars and stripes.— the long three thousand miles and more fj'i°2?^rfu 'u-^^.^'"^ "^^"^^ "^^"*^^ °* absence, so dwindled and laded, that the ship had gone out and come home again, and it was broad spnng already in the Coburg Dock at Liverpool T i}^""^ ?°* /i'?,'''''^^ ^""""^ "^y niedical acquaintance, whether Turte. and cold Punch, with Hock, Champagne, and Claret, and all the slight et cetera usually included in an unlimited order for a good dinner— especially when it is left to the liberal construction of my faultless friend. Mr. Radley. of the Adelphi Hotel-are peculiarly calculated to suffer a sea-change; or whether a plain mutton-choo and a glass or two of sherry, would be less likely of conversion into foreign and disconcerting material. My own opinion is. that whether J .„,.„.., .,ei oj. xiiviio-^iccL III Liicau particulars, ou the eve oi a sea- American Notes 13 voyage, is a matter of little consequence; and that, to use a common phrase, it comes to very much the same thing in the end. " Be this BS It may, I know that the dinner of that day was undeniably perfect: that It comprehended all these items, and a great many more; and that we all did ample justice to it. And I know too. that, bating a certain tacit avoidance of any allusion to to-morrow; such as niay be supposed to prevail between delicate-minded turnkeys, and a sensitive prisoner who is to be hanged next morning; we got on very well. and. all things considered, were merry enough. When the morning— <Ae morning— came, and we met at breakfast It was cunous to see how eager we all were to prev at a moment's pause in the conversation, and how astoundingly gay everybody was- the forced spirits of each member of the little party having as much likeness to his natural mirth, as hot-house peas at five guineas the quart, resemble in flavour the growth of the dews, and air, and rain of Heaven But as one o'clock, the hour for going aboard, drew near this volubility dwindled away by little and little, despite the most pereevenng efforts to the contrary, until at last, the matter being now quite desperate, we threw off all disguise; openly speculated upon where we should be this time to-morrow, this time next day. and so forth; and entrusted a vast number of messages to those who intended returning to town that night, which were to be delivered at home and elsewhere without fail, within the very shortest possible space of time after th^ amval of the railway train at Euston Square. And commis- sions and remembrances do so crowd upon one at such a time that we were still busied with this employment when we found ourselves lusea. as It were, into a dense conglomeration of passengers and pas- senger fnends and passengers' luggage, all jumbled together on the deck of a small steamboat, and panting and snorting off to the packet which had worked out of dock yesterday afternoon and was now lying at her moorings in the river. And there she is! all eyes are turned to where she lies, dimly dis- cernible through the gathering fog of the early winter afternoon- every finger is pointed in the same direction; and murmurs of interest and admiration— as "How beautiful she looks!" "How trim she is!" —are heard on every side. Even the lazy gentleman with his hat on one side and his hands in his pockets, who has dispensed so much consolation by inquiring with a yawn of another gentleman whether 1 r.u^?"^ across"— as if it were a ferry— even he condescends to Ik *.f .T.^^'/""^ ''"^ ^'^ ^^^^' "^ wh° should say. "No mistake about that: and not even the sage Lord Burleigh in his nod. included half so much as this lazy gentleman of might who has made the pas- sage (as everybody on board has found out already; it's impossible to say now) thirteen times without a single accident! There is another passenger very much wrapped-up, who has been frowned down by tne rest, and morally trampled upon and crushed, for presuming to mquire with a timid interest how long it is since the noor Pr*.«id^«f went down. He is standing close to the lazy gentleman, and says 14 American Notes with a fctint smile that he beHeves She is a very strong Ship; to which the lazy gentleman, looking first in his questioner's eye and then very hard in the wind's, answers unexpectedly and ominously, that She need be. Upon this the lazy gentleman instantly falls very low in the popular estimation, aqd the passengers, with looks of defiance, whis- per to each other that he is an ass, and an impostor, and clearly don't know anything at all about it. But we are made fast alongside the packet, whose huge red funnel is smoking bravely, giving rich promise of serious intentions. Packing- cases, portmanteaus, carpet-bags, and boxes, are already passed from hand to hand, and hauled on board with breathless rapidity. The officers, smartly dressed, are at the gangway handing the passengers up the side, and hurrying the men. In five minutes' time, the little steamer is utterly deserted, and the packet is beset and over-run by its late freight, who instantly pervade the whole ship, and are to be met with by the dozen in every nook and corner: swarming down below with their own baggage, and stumbling over other people's; disposing themselves comfortably in wrong cabins, and creating a most horrible confusion by having to turn out again; madly bent upon opening locked doors, and on forcing a passage into all kinds of out-of-the-way places where there is no thoroughfare; sending wild stewards, with elfin hair, to and fro upon the breezy decks on un- intelligible errands, impossible of execution: and in short, creating the most extraordinary and bewildering tumult. In the midst of all this, the lazy gentleman, who seems to have no luggage of any kind — not so niuch as a friend, even — lounges up and down the hurricane deck, coolly pufiing a cigar; and, as this unconcerned demeanour again exalts him in the opinion of those wli j have leisure to observe his proceedings, every time he looks up at the masts, or down at the decks, or over the side, they look there too, as wondering whether he sees anything wrong anywhere, and hoping that, in case he should, he will have the goodness to mention it. What have we here? The captain's boat! and yonder the captain himself. Now, by all our hopes and wishes, the very man he ought to be! A well-made, tight-built, dapper little fellow; with a ruddy face, which is a letter of invitation to shake him by both hands at once; and with a clear, blue honest eye, that it does one good to see one's sparkling image in. "Ring the bell!" "Ding, ding, ding!"the very bell is in a hurry. "Now for the shore — who's for the sliore?" — "These gentlemen, I am sorry to say." They are away, and never said. Good b'ye. Ah! now they wave it from the little boat. "Good b'ye! Good b'ye!" Three cheers from them; three more from us; three more i/om them: and they are gone. To and fro, to and fro, to and fro again a hundred times ! This waiting for the latest maii-bags is worse than all. If we could have gone oflE in the midst of that last burst, we should have started trium- phantly: but to lie here, two hours and more in the damp fog, neither staying at home nor going abroad, is letting ont gradually down into American Notes 15 the very depths of dulness and low spirits. A speck in the mist, at last! That's something. It is the boat we wait for! That's more to the purpose. The captain appears on the paddle-box with his speaking trumpet; the officers take their stations; all hands are on the alert; the flagging hopes of the passeng:ers revive; the cooks pause in their savoury work, and look out with faces full of interest. The boat comes alongside; the bags are dragged in anyhow, and flung down for the moment anjnivhere. Three cheers more: and as the first one rings upon our ears, the vessel throbs like a strong giant that has just received the breath of life; the two great wheels turn fiercely round for the first time; and the noble ship, with wind and tide astern, breaks proudly through the lashed and foaming water. CHAPTER II THE PASSAGE OUT We all dined together that day; and a rather formidable party we were: no fewer than eighty-six strong. The vessel being pretty deep in the water, with all her coals on board and so many passengers, and the weather being calm and quiet, there was but little motion- so that before the dinner was half over, even those passengers who were most distrustful of themselves plucked up amazingly; and those who in the morning had returned to the universal question, "Are you a good sailor?" a very decided negative, now either parried the inquiry with the evasive reply, "Oh! I suppose I'm no worse than anybody else;" or, reckless of all moral obligations, answered boldly "Yes:" and with some irritation too, as though they would add, "I should like to know what you see in me, sir, particularly, to justify suspicion!" Notwithstanding this high tone of courage and confidence, I could not but observe that very few remained long over their wine; and , that everybody had an unusual love of the open air; and that the favourite and most coveted seats were invariably those nearest to the door. The tea-table, too, was by no means as well attended as the dinner-table; and there was less whist-playing than might have been expected. Still, with the exception of one lady, who had retired with some precipitation at dinner-time, immediately after being assisted to the finest cut of a very yellow boiled leg of mutton with very frreen capers, there were no invalids as yet; and walking, and smoking, and drinking of brandy-and-water (but always in the open air), went on with unabated spirit, until eleven o'clock or thereabouts, when I'tuming in" — no sailor of seven hours' experience talks of going to bed — became the order of the night. Ine perpetual tramp of boot- heels on the decks gave place to a heavy silence, and the whole i6 American Notes human freight was stowed away below, excepting a very few stragglers, like myself, who were probably, like me. afraid to go there To one unaccustomed to such scenes, this is a very striking time on shipboard. Afterwards, and when its novelty had long worn off it never ceased to have a peculiar interest and charni for me. The gloom through which the great black mass holds its direct and certain course; the rushing water, plainly heard, but dimly seen; the broad white, gUstenmg track, that follows in the vessel's wake; the men on the lookout forward, who would be scarcely visible against the dark sky. but for their blotting out some score of glistening stars; the helmsman at the wheel, with the illuminated card before him, shining a speck of light amidst the darkness, like something sentient and of Divme intelligence; the melancholy sighing of the wind through block and rope, and chain; the gleaming forth of light from every crevice' nook, and tiny piece of glass about the decks, as though the ship were tilled with fire in hiding, ready to burst through any outlet, wild with Its resistless power of death and ruin. At first, too. and even when the hour, and all the objects it exalts, have come to be familiar it is difficult, alone and thoughtful, to hold them to their proper shapes and forms. They change with the wandering fancy; assume the semblance of things left far away; put on the well-remembered aspect of favourite places dearly loved; and even people them with shadows Streets, houses, rooms; figures so like their usual occupants, that they have startled me by their reality, which far exceeded, as it seemed to me, all power of mine to conjure up the absent; have, many ^nd many a time, at such an hour, grown suddenly out of objects with whose real look, and use. and purpose, I was as well acquainted as with my own two hands. My own two hands, and feet likewise, being very cold, however on this particular occasion, I crept below at midnight. It was not exactly comfortable below, it was decidedly close; and it was impossible to be unconscious of the presence of that extraordinary compound of strange smells, which is to be found nowhere but on board ship, and which is such a subtle perfume that it seems to enter at every pore of the skin, and whisper of the hold. Two passengers' wives (one of them my own) lay already in silent agonies on the sofa- and one lady's riaid {my lady's) was a mere bundle on the floor, execrating her destiny, and pounding her curl-papers among the stray boxes. Everything sloped the wrong way: which in itself was an aggravation scarcely to be borne. I had left the door open a moment before, in the bosom of a gentle declivity, and. when I turned to shut it, it was on the summit of a lofty eminence. Now every plank and timber creaked, as if the ship were made of wicker- work; and now crackled, like an enormous fire of the driest possible twigs. There was nothing for it but bed; so I went to bed. It was pretty much the same for the next two days, with a tolerably fair wind and dry weather. I read in bed (but to this hour I don't know what) a good deal; and reeled on deck a little; drank cold American Notes j^ any danger. I rouse mvself' Jn^ i^T 1 ^^^^^^ whether there's p/ngi„glndlea7ngS'livetd°^^^^^^ ^^-^"8 - afloat, except my shoes which Li^2',^ ^® smaller articles are and dry. like a couple of Ji^S^^^^ tf/^^ 7 ^ carpet-bag. high the air! and behol? theTool^\%?asf^^^^ sticking fast upon the ceiUnT At Se s^me f/^"?^^'^^*^ *^^ ^^"' disappears, and a new one if opened inThe Cor Th ^^k'^^^'^^^ comprehend.thatthestate-roomTsstLdingo^^^^^^^ ' ^^^^^ *° witll^s nVv^n^^roflh^ts^ tl7sr "n~ ^^^^ --P^tible "Thank Heaven!'' Lewro/^'s alfn ^eg"''- ^'^°'' °^^ ^^^ ^^^ wrong, she seems to Lve startTfo;^^rH ^ T! "^t" ""^ «^« « actually running of its o^ accord w^h K ' S'"'^ ,*° ^^ ^ *^^^^t^^e legs, through every variet^ of hn^« ^ ul°»^'' ^^^« ^^^ failing stantly. Before on^cln so m„rh «« ""^ P'^?"' ^"^ stumbling con- the air Before she has weirdone^h^^^^^^^^ '^^T ^ ^^^^ ^^^P "^^o water. Before she hLTaintd f ht c ' f *^u ^^ ^ "^^^P ^^^^ ^^^ the The instant she s ofhef wf she/uT^^^^^^^^ 'I' *^?^.^ ^ summerset, on staggering hea.vinsZrS{i^t^^^ backward. And so she goes throbbfng. rSlLrr/d ^SLdT^thS^ P^^^^^^' ments. sometimes by turns and qoTm.f 1«!^f u 1 ^^^^® "^^^e- disposed to roar for mercy. ''^"'^^^"^es altogether: until one feels A steward passes. "Stewardl" "<?ir?" "wiu x • ^, rfo you call this?" "RatWa hp.^. c ^^^* " *^^ "^^^ter? what A head-wind! ImaSne a humt7/^ ''''' '''' ^^^ ^ head-.vind." fifteen thousand SaSs^nTnTb^nt Ton d'l' "'^^l!'^ r^' ^^^ titting her exactly between the eve. ^h? '°l ^^^ ^^*^^' ^^ advance an inch ImaJinrfho t-^f whenever she attempts to artery of her huge S swofl J ^^^ "^'^^ ^^^^ P^l^e and .mentf sworn to To on L d^ L^. ^Tk*^"^ .""^er this maltreat- roaring.therainKg alUnfuriZr ^^"^ ™^ ^°^""S. the sea sky both dark and w S.^and L cCdsTn^fLTI'''' ^^'' ?^"*"^^ *^« waves, making another ocean in thp^ir' f,^,^ff^J sympathy with the on deck and down below the ?readnfh *S ?" ^^'' *^^ <^lattering shouts of seamen; the^urRHn^ ?n t^'^'^'fi^^^' *^^ ^°"^ ^^^^^e scuppers; with. ev;ry Lw and tLn th.V^i^- °* "J^*^^ *^"°^g^ the the planks aboU with th^ H^. *^ '}*"! strikmg of a heavy sea upon within a vault;Ard there fs the ht^^' ^"^^y/°.""^ °^ thunder heasd I say nothing o^what rial te ^^^^^^^ J^°"^^ "^°^"i°g- ship: such as the breakLg^?^lass and crn^v '^''Tk '^' ^°^^^« «* t^« of stewards, the gambols overhead on" ^'^' *^^ t^^^bling down _ ^„,„ .. =g|auuiiU3 raisea iix their varioiio'o^.,^ , — ' *"" -ivjui csjiiiaratmg ink cold Bwho were too iU to gelTrto breaSSri'^l*" seventy passenger! up to breakfast. iTaynotWng^fTS for xB American Notes although I lay listening to this concert for three or four days, I don't think I heard it for more than a quarter of a minute, at the expiration of which term, I lay down again, excessively sea-sick. Not sea-sick, be it understood, in the ordinary acceptation of the term: I wish I had been: but in a form which I have never seen or heard described, though I have no doubt it is very common. I lay there, all the day long, quite coolly and contentedly; with no sense of weariness, with no desire to get up, or get better, or take the air; with no curiosity, or care, or regret, of any sort or degree, saving that I think I can remember, in this universal indifference, having a kind of lazy joy — of fiendish delight, if anything so lethargic can be digni- fied with the title-— in the fact of my wife being too ill to talk to me. If I may be allowed to illustrate my state of mind by such an example, I should say thai I ivas exactly in the condition of the elder Mr. Willet, after the incursion of the rioters into his bar at Chigwell. Nothing would ha /e surprised me. If, in the momentary illumination of any ray of intelligence that may have come upon me in the way of thoughts of Home, a goblin postman, with a scarlet coat and bell, had come into that little kennel before me, broad awake in broad day, and, apologising for being djamp through walking in the sea, had handed me a letter directed to myself, in familiar characters, I am certain I should not have felt one atom of astonishment: I should have been perfectly satisfied. If Neptune himself had walked in, with a toasted shark on his trident, I should have looked upon the event as one of the very commonest everyday occurrences. Once — once — I found myself on deck. I don't know how I got there, or what possessed me to go there, but there I was; and com- pletely dressed too, with a huge pea-coat on, and a pair of boots such as no weak man in his senses could ever have got into. I found myself standing, when a gleam of consciousness came upon me, holding on to something. I don't know what. I think it wa's the boatswain: or it may have been the pump: or possibly the cow. I can't say how long I had been there; whether a day or a minute. I recollect trying to think about something (about anything in the whole wide world, I was not particular) without the smallest effect. I could not even make out which was the sea, and which the sky, for the horizon seemed drunk, and was flying wildly about in all directions. Even in that incapable state, however, I recognised the lazy gentleman standing before me: nautically clad in a suit of shaggy blue, with an oilskin hat. But I was too imbecile, although I knew it to be he, tb separate him from his dress; and tried to call him, I remember. Pilot. After another interval of total unconsciousness, I found he had gone, and recognised anocher figure in its place. It seemed to wave and fluctuate before me as though I saw it reflected in an unsteady looking-glass; but I knew it for the captain; and such was the cheerful influence of his face, that I tried to smile: yes, even then I tried to smile. I saw by his gestures that he addressed me; but it was a long time be' "j I could make out that he remonstrated against my standing up to my jwain: or it g up to my American Notes jg knees in water— as I was; of course I don't know whv I fri^ f soles: at the same time endeavouring I am told fn !if h^ • .1 pool. Finding that I was quite insensible tnd for Vh« ? ^"^^ '" .*^* he humanely conducted me beSw ' ^ ^'""^ ^ "'^°^^*^' There I remained until I eot bptf*»r- anff^r^ i. introduction to me from a rri.^li^^'^l^n'^l^t^t'^ t Wow with his card, on the morning of the head-winrt ■ »nH t ■ troubled with the idea that he might be np an* we'll anrt»T i°°§ times a day expecting me to call upon LrJ'in ti^saioon t ii^^**"^ him one of those cast-ir„„ imagesLi will not c'all ttem meT^who ask, with red faces, and lustv voices what «,.» .ir.i,„„ men— who whether it really is as bad as^t is\%;:ltntrd'rb^'S:S was'™,^ tortunng indeed; and I don't think I ever felt surh w.^* was very SrL^S^rb-n-^i-d^o-T^^^^^ It was materiaUy assisted though. I have no dnnhf k„ o v gale If wind, which came slowly up kt sunset wh^n^; ^ ^ ^l^""^ rvi^7rtVJiiird«'ii«SSii^^^ Its bursting into full violence was almost areUef f^^^ndous, that sToos^Sh T ° ^ ^""?^^ S"^^^ g"^^' ^"^ l^^^is her back-that she mmmm f^«"l*;f f ifP.^'-i' «\^-^ »''" it^ Bhriek. and every d^o oflw Z and^ip^iriLrrdX^ir.-^--^^^^^^^ 5l 20 American Notes cannot express it Thoughts cannot convey it. Only a dream can call It up again, in all its fury. rage, and passion. ' And yet. m the very midst of these terrors. I was placed in a situa- tioii so exquisitely ridiculous, that even then I had as stroig a sense of Its absurdity as I have now, and could no more help laughing than I can at any other comical incident, happening unde? cir" umstance* the most favourable to its enjoyment. About midnight wrshfoned * sea, which forced its way through the skylights, burft open tSors abo^e, and came raging and roaring down into the ladies' cabin to whn^h'^H ^^^' consternation of my wife and a little Scotch laS;- who, by the way, had previously sent a message to the captaki by the stewardess, requestmg him, with her compliments, to have a steel conductor immediately attached to the top of every mast and to the Thf ""'^^ Ik ^l^^'J^^} the ship might not be stXck T; hghtnine They and the handmaid before mentioned, being in such ecSs of fear that I scarcely knew what to do with them. iLturalVSu^^^^ myself of some restorative or comfortable cordial; and nothing better occurring to me. at the moment, than hot brandy-and-water I «m w'ltho^t'h T.''- '' '"" rv!*^""' ^^^y- '' ^^^"g impos^sibL to stand o?S without holding on. they were all heaped together in one corne- of ^ long sofa-a fixture extending entirely acrosi the clbin-wheTe thev dung to each other in momentary expectation of being dSmied When I approached this place with my specific, and w£ aW t' admmister it with many consolatory expressions to Se newest sufferer, what was my dismay to see them all roll slowly do^ tTthe other end ! And when I staggered to that end. and heldVut^e gl2s once more, how immensely baffled were my good intentions bvt^! ? ^IT?^^''^'^^' ^"'."^' ^"^ ^^^^ ^» rolling back aga^nTrsupUse L ,r ^'i^^r "Pu^^^^ ^°^ *h^^ «°^^ ^°^ at least f quarter of an hour without reaching them once; and by the time I did cSch them the brandy-and-water was diminished; by constant sniilin a ^^o eas^onful. To complete the group, it'is Lc^a^ toT^^^^^^^^^ this disconcerted dodger, an individual very pale W sea sfclSess who had shaved his beard and brushed his hair last. SLveri^or and whose only article of dress (linen not included) weie a pafr S^ dread nought trousers; a blue jacket, formerly admired upon tKames at Richmond; no stockings; and one slipper ^ ihames at «.T?i*^^ outrageous antics performed by that ship next mominc which made bed a practical pke. and getting up, by any proc?ss?ho& of falling out. an impossibility; I say nothing. But ^ylSSrSketh^ utter drearmess and desolation that met my eyes whefl^iteraUv tumbled up" on deck at noon, I never saw. Ocean a^dTky were aU of one dull, heavy, uniform, lead colour. There was no extend of nroi^ pect even over the dreary waste that lay around us° for the sea ran high, and the horizon encompassed us like a large black hoop X^ewed from the air, or some tall bluff on shore, it would hate bSmSt and stupendous, no doubt; but seen from the wet and rSw S^t only imoressed nn#» mHrHKr o«^ ^„^^a.ii- t ., , i^fung aeCKS, It . o-.^„..jr «ii^x irciiiiuiiy . in xne gaie ol last night the earn can call American Notes 21 ai'd" *:L^'A^™,=™';f^^^ °- "°w of the ,ea Uk. a walnut-sheU; The planking of the mrffli il *'u tT" '*8«°' "' "^^Y boards, wheels were^exposed and Ltr^ ^nH*"?^ been torn sheer away. The spray about the de^ks at ranH^'J' r.-^*' "'""""' ='"'' ''"'bed their topmasts struckfSo^iTlsttriggllJnir^o?^^^^^^ ''^'^rn^o^^oo^^l^l^atr^e'^S^^^^^^^^^^^^ bj ht^^^-^^l;. "'=*• husbind at New York t^h^ i° H "^!"*'2"^^' °° ^^' ^^V *« J^in he; Secondly and thirdly a^hnn..^ settled there three years before, with some Amerkan Luse- Hnr^f./n^'^^u^^'^'^^'"^"^^"' connected thither his beautiLl y^ng w^t^w^^^^^ T^H'^' ^"^ ^^^^"8 a fortnight, and who wal thrJ^irir ^^^ ^^^. ^^^°^ ™^"ied but country girl I have evTseen FoilfhF^'^'II'Kr °^ ^ *^°""^^y English couplef newly married ton ff A Fourthly fifthly, and lastly, another thef frequ^rXiri^^ercha^^^^^^ wlfo * ^?1^" ''°"^ *^*^ endearments they were rath4 a mysterious r.?n T J ^T ""^ "'^^^ *^an that more guns witHm than r1^^ n^ ^^* *^^ gentleman carried andhadtwogreaXsonboar^^^^^^^ ^°^I ^ shooting-coat, oer that he tried hot foS p^fand Lff^H^^ ^ '^'^^^' ness; and that he took tresertm^H ■ / ^"^ f!^ ^^ ^ ^"^^ ^^^ sea-sick- with astonishLg perseyerance^ ^""/^f^ *? ^^^^ ^^y ^^^^^ day. curious, that th'erdecTdedT;^^^^ "^'' '°^ *^^ -formation of t^e bal. weTsuilh^swS "^^ "^°^^«* unprecedentedly able, about an hoSw non^ cabm. more or less faint and miser- duriig which intei^^?J! ^°°?' ^""^ ^^y ^j^wn on the sofas to recover; state ^f the wJndX'm^L^^^^^^^ to communicate the weather is always ffoW S iS!l ^^°* **^ changmg to-morrow (the rate of sailing and so forth ^^ to-morrow, at sea), the vessel's of, for there^snosun t?tak?f?^^K'°"^ *^^'^ ^^^^ °°^^ to tell us will serve for ^l^tL rest He^tu^''' ^"* ^ ^'^<^^P^on of one day be hgLTnough^^^^^^ 'TP°'^ °"^^^^^^^ *° ^«^d. if the place bell rings and l-h../ > "^^ ^^"^^ ^"^ talk alternately. At oL a baked loktoes and .3.'"' ?^"' ^^^'^ ^^^^ ^ steaming d°sh of face. COM ham ' saU beef ^r ?lrh "'^'^ "^^1'^' ^"^ P^^*^^ ^^ P^^^ collops. We Ml to VirTrf +1, perhaps a smoking mess of rare hot haye^g;erapStL^^^^ ^^^^'T' "^' ^^ °^"^^ ^' ^« ^^^ (we fire will huS^twm^eSlt T ^' ^"""^ ^' P°''^^^^ ^^^"t it. If the we all remark to Sfh otwTh?] -^ ^'^ ^"1*^ ^^"^^f"^" " ^t won't, ourselves with coTts and Hnf^? it's very cold, rub our hands, cove^ and read (^ovi^as aforlTiS ^"?/'? ^°^" ^^^^ *° ^oze. talk. K^n -._-_ ^^ ^vi,"ea as aioresaid), until dmner-^imA Af «„^ xu..' 22 American Notes !!^n ? ^l ''''^*'* P*^'.**" ^ ^^''^^ medicinaUy. We sit down at table Sr^mn^H T' ^JrT^"»y *han before^; p'rolong the meal wi?h a rather mouldy dessert of apples, grapes, and oranges; and drink our 7^\^^ brandy-and-water. The bottles and glaLs ere Su^n the table, and the oranges and so forth are rolling about accordinjto «^Hp ^"'L?"'* *^." '-^^P'^ ^*y' ^^«" ^^^ ^^^or comes aowrby special night y mvitation. to join our evening rubber: immediately on the irH'"'^^ ''\T^^ ^ P^'*y ^* ^^i«*' ^"d ^ it is a rough n^ht^S we take them At whist we remam with exemplary gravity (deductine h^ chfn 'n'J^^'^fr''.^^^ ' ^^^^' '"^ ^ sou'-west;r hat tied uS ^r thl^', .1 P'lot;coat: makinrr the ground wet where he stands By this time the card-pJaying is over, and the bottles and glassTs^e never JLto'b.T''T^^ ^°^ '""'T ^" ^^"^^^»' *^« captain (who ?nr fhe^n! i • ^"u"* ;^ "l'^^'" "*"* °^ humour) turns up his coat collar for the deck agam; shakes hands all round; and goes laughing outinto the weather as merrily as to a birthday party. ^ As to daily news, there is no dearth of that commodity This passenger is reportea to have lost fourteen pounds at vTnTet-un in the saloon yesterday; and that passenger drinks his bottle of cham £?ws Th" \fZ' '"^ ^° V .^°^^ '' (^^^ ^-'y - clerk)° noMy whTw^ pngineer has distinctly said that there never wZ XenT^Z^u^Ti ^^^t?f-?^d four good hands are ill, and ha^ SrieaL The !h^^^^^ ^^^ir ^"" °^ ^**^^' ^"^ ^» *h« cabins b^en founH ,lr?nt P^T^'k'^*''"^*/^ Swigging damaged whisky, has been found drunk; and has been played upon bv the fire-enmn/ inSi rnVr^"'- ^"/^^ t''^''^' ^^^' ^^"^" doC-^tSrs afvariou dmnar-tames, and go about with plasters in various places. The bake? ^ill. and so IS the pastry-cook. A new man. horribly indisposed has been required to fill the place of the latter officer; aSS been propped and jammed up with empty casks in a little houS u^n deck and conimanded to roll out pie-crust, which he protest (S S'^^'^-^^'V* ' w>f' ^ 1° ^^" '} ^°^^ ^'- ^^-«' A Teen miS D^^;^ .1 ?V ""^ *^^ '"*^'L^'* °^ *^^^^ ^"g^t incidents at sea. rumir r" ^;; ."^^ber and such topics as these, we were wi?h HffiW ^V^''^*^''*^ '"1° "^^^^^^ Harbour, on the fifteenth nX with little wind and a bright moon-indeed, we had made the Lirfit shin r*'[ ^^*^^"^^' ^"? P"t the pilot in c ,rge-when suddenly the ship struck upon a bank of mud. An imm Jiate rush on deck took m W^f '°"''"' '^" ''f' 7''' ^^^^^^d i" ^" i^^^t^nt; and for a few minutes we were m as lively a state of confusion as the greatest lov^ clstran" Tther tT '° ^^^; ^'^ r"^"^^^^' ^^ ^^^and wate^ casits. and other heavy matters, being all huddled together aft however^ to lighten her in the head, she was soon got ofr and af^; some driving on towards an uncomfortable line o^f ohtl^iXZ vx^mity naa Deen amiounced very early in the disaster by a loud cry American Notes ^q anchor in a Strang.. onSish S^f n "^ S- J"*''J' ** "^"PP^ co.!d recogni*. although there wafan?'»ntl^\"°'"''^'.°" **"<* stiLrtfar^e^rd ^b^^'atelrthl "'l"*"' ?" ">« "«'«• stoppage 01 the enehie whirh h^ < k^*^ , sudden and unexpected ear^injessantl/r rtny'1a^"tf :^S§ Thl l^f «,» °" ?s^nf rtUo'uxrth: r ^ '--^«""tg*titi°?L it?,*: stoke,f aL*3e" hremeS torn bXl"''"'' ^ "^^ ^"^ clustered together in a smoky^^^p Sut thrw^h'''' °"^ !'.;'' engme-room, comparing notes in whlperaAft^fi,^'^**'' °' .*''^ rockets and firin? siirnal »..n= in tv,. ^ ■7^*^'^ throwing up a few land, or at leaS ofSnlTHli,* l^P*?.' ^""^ ^^"^ f™-" the sound presenttng itseT ^ wi?H 7 " ",'*'""'* ^"^ °*^" »«" or over in case the tide were running n,,f if ^f^., ^^"^ heehng to remark how desneratelv^n^^ , lu^""^ "^"^^ '* ^^«« amusing one short mSe H^had Ld h^.T.^ *^^ ?T' P"«* ^^^«^« i^ during the whole voyage had been S^.' °".* ^'^"^ Liverpool, and boS;r;td*rres?rnf„h^u'i^rettS.^^/^^^^^^ bnnging with him a fnl*»raKKr +0I1 **''-"™^°' i^e otticer m command :sivfthe°^£S5S^?S^^^^^^^ had done anything but fraudrntt ^^^a W«e wav to'^Th'"""-"/ speciallv to decpiv*» fh^n- or,^ ^ "y luw d, nitie way mto the mist, Sfwe'fad anTh"^"- " "^' ^'»"* theUfplTe'tn'th'/^ori? ™ sot'i^oron the^itor;5t°;irthe.*° '^•,;^"* ^ ''""''•' *"«• ^" ^^.irntrttltiSS^^^^^^^^^ Eased by this rerort and hvff?» ™'I° '^ ^""'"^ *•>«'■ -boots, ebj.. weUedTfttTrtt ^t^S'^^t^^^ '''^ ^^ ^' ^^ I was dressing about half-past nine next dav wW t h. • u humed me on deck. When I hadWt i?ov"'i^kr'^!"..*'l^°°!f f*"™ ""u aamp, and there were bleak hills "ali" round "^sTNo^'we^S if t\ l5 24 American Notes gliding down a smooth, broad stream, at the rate of eleven miles an hour: our colmirs flying gaily; our crew rigged out in their smartest clothes; our officers in uniform again; the sun shining as on a brilliant ^P"\*?^y *" England; the land stretched out on either side, streaked witn light patches of snow; white wooden houses; people at their doors; telegraphs working; flags hoisted; wharfs appearinif ships- quays crowded with people; distant noises; shouts; men and boys running down steep places towards the pier: a)l more bright and sky and freshto our unused ej^es than words can paint them. We came to a wharf, paved with uplifted faces; got alongside, and were made fast, after some shouting and straining of cables; darted, a score of us along the gangway, almost as soon as it was thrust out to meet us and before it had reached the ship— and leaped upon the firm glad eartn again ! I suppose this Halifax would have appeared an Elysium, though it had been a curiosity of ugly dulness. But I carried away with me a most pleasant impression of the town and its inhabitants, and have preserved it to this hour. Nor was it without regret that I came home, without having found an opportunity of returning thither, and once more shaking hands with the friends I made that day It happened to be the opening of the Legislative Council and General Assembly, at which ceremonial the forms observed on the commencement of a new Session of Parliament in England were so closely copied, and so gravely presented on a small scale, that it was like looking at Westminster through the wrong end of a telescope The governor as her Majesty's representative, delivered what may be called the Speech from the Throne. He said what he had to sav manfully and well. The military band outside the building struck up God save the Queen " with great vigour before his Excellency had quite finished; the people shouted; the in's rubbed their hands- the out s shook their heads; the Government party said there never was such a good speech; the Opposition declared there never was such a bad one; the Speaker and members of the House of Assembly with- drew from the bar to say a great deal among themselves and do a little: and, in short, everything went on, and pron:ised to go on iust as It does at home upon th like occasions.^ The town is built on the side of a hill, the highest point being com- manded by a strong fortress, not yet quite finished. Several streets of good breadth and appearance extend from its summit to the water-side, and are intersected by cross streets running parallel with the nyer. The houses are chiefly of wood. The market is abundantly supplied; and provisions are exceedingly cheap. The weather being unusually mild at that time for the season of the year, there was no sleighmg: but there were plenty of those vehicles in yards and by- places, and some of them, from the gorgeous quality of their decora- tions, might have " gone on" without alteration as triumphal cars in a melodrama at Astley's. The day was uncommonly fine- the air Q idim iieditiixUi, me vvnuit; uspcct oi tne town cheerful American Notes 2^? thriving, and industrious. *^ len^tl^hlv'nrcol^^^^^^^^ -^ -^^-^« the mails. At two or three choice spirits who hf ^L^ T"" P^^^^ngers (including and champagne^rr^jfu^nd ?y^gTn?^^^^^^^^ - » oT£?^Sr ' ^^^ -^^-^ were^gr;^.^^n\^^t„^^^^^^^^ ^ "s??^' tumS^Slel"^^^^^^^^^^ ^X^^yoi Fundy. we On the next afternoon that fs?oii. ?^* ^"^ ^" "^^^^ ^^y. secondof January an American^^Lu^^ T ^^t^^^^y. the twentir- afterwards the BriSnnS sSlm^n^^^^^^^ ^"d soon days out. was telegraph^ at Cton ' ' '"^ ^'"'^°°^' ^^^^^^^^ The indescribable interest with which I sfrpin^,i r^ first patches of American soil Deeo^d h J m^f k n T^ ^^^^^ ^^ ^^^ sea. and followed them L thev sweltn k "^^^^^^^^^om the green ceptible degrees, into a'L'n^TnuTuf iLVcLT'c^T' T^^^^ exaggerated. A sharp keen wind blew dT^H L. !' ^ ^^''^^^^ ^ prevailed on shore; and the S was most tvf^rv^^^^^ ^^'^ ^^°^* mtensely clear, and drv and bri^hf ^hll fu I ^* ^he an- was so only endurable, but delkious ^ ' ^* *^' temperature was not sideTheVoXi^nd\r Th'^^^^^^^^^ "^^' ^^'^ - — along- should have had them^Sopen ^nd ^ll?-^^^ ^ ^'^"'^ ^ -are topics which I will ™Drolon;Th1<f "^ "^^ °^j^cts will I more than hintlt m3^S^^^^ ^^^""^^ Neither party of most active perTonrwho ^r^ilK??*^^!''' ^^PP^^ing that a their lives as we appr?rchpH VL scrambled on board at the peril of that industrio^: daSTttoml;X^^^^^ ~T to of news slung about the neck<5 nf «nlf ' ^^1? ?^ leathern wallets hands of all thev were Fnfw uT' ^^"^ the broad sheets in the gentleman in a ^ScoS^^ '^Tj"" P^^«°^ (^« one ^ As quick as possible." said I. Right away.?" said the waiter. Alter a moment's hesitation. I answered " I " ^f h. a Not right awav?" ct\^a +>,! **".^w*^rea i , at hazard, that made me sTS" *^' ^^'*""' ^^th an amount of surprise it Lthi'nrt.^?.l°.^^^^^^^^^^^^ "No; I would rather hav. K.,.. ^, ,v -•- •"^- J^ i"tc it very much " At th.s. I reaily thought the waiteYmust have gone out of his mind: SS6 American Notes as I believe he would have done, but for the interposition of another man, who whispered in his ear, "Directly." "Well! and that's a fact!" said the waiter, looking helplesslv at me: "Right away." & f y »■ I saw now that "Right away" and "Directly" were one and the same thing. So I reversed my previous answer, and sat down to dinner in ten minutes aftenvards; and a capital dinner it was. The hotel (a very excellent one) is called the Tremont House. It has more galleries, colonnades, piazzas, and passages than I can remember, or the reader would believe. CHAPTER III BOSTON In all the public establishments of America, the utmost courtesy prevails. Most of our Departments are susceptible of considerable improvement in this respect, but the Custom-house above all others would do well to take example from the United States and render it- self somewhat less odious and offensive to foreigners. The servile rapacity of the French off ;ials is sufficiently contemptible; but there is a surly boorish incivility about our men, alike disgusting to all per- sons who fall into their hands, and discreditable to the nation that keeps such ill-conditioned curs snarling about its gates. When I landed in America, I could not help bemg strongly im- pressed with the contrast their Custom-house presented, and the attention, politeness and good humour with which its officers dis- charged their duty. As we did not land at Boston, in consequence of some detention at the wharf, until after dark, I received my first imprejsions of the city m walking down to the Custom-house on the morning after our arrival which was Sunday. I am afraid to say, by the way. how many offers of pews and seats in church for that morning were made ,o us, by formal note of invitation, before we had half finished our first dinner in America, but if I may be allowed to make a moderate guess without going into nicer calculation, I should say that at least as many sittings were proffered us, as would have accommodated a score or two of grown-up families. The number of creeds and forms of religion to which the pleasure of our company was requested, was in very fair proportion. Not being able, in the absence of any change of clothes, to go to church that day, we were compelled to decline these kindnesses, one and all; and I was reluctantly obliged to forego the delight of hearing Dr. Channing, who happened to preach that morning for the first time in. a very long interval. I mention the name of this distinguished American Notes 27 «?.^nTS"'P^''^^'^ '^^'^ ^r^^ ^^°"^ I ^o" afterwards had the pleas- ure of becoming personally acquainted), that I may have the cStm St Zh "u^:-^""^ tny humble tribute of admiration and respfct o^ tt^i l^'^'*'^' ^""^ character; and for the bold philanthronv w th it^l^lLTJy^'''''''' '^"^^^" '^ ^^^* --* hid'eous b&ru'l To return to Boston. When I got into the streets upon this Sundav mornmg the an- was so clear, the houses wc-2 so br?ht and gav the signboards were painted in such gaudy colours; the ^Ided letter! were so very golden; the bricks were so very red Xltone wnl ^^ very white, the blinds and area railings w?re so ver^ Zen t£ knobs and plates upon the street doSrs so marvelSuSv briS? and twinkling; and all so slight and unsubstantial L appeLancf^ that every thoroughfare in the city looked exactly like a scene inl^ pantomime. It rarely happens in the business stre^ets that a ?rades T^;^ei^^l "'°'r '^'^" t^y^^^y ^ tradesman, where eve^body IS a merchant, resides above his store; so that many occupations are often carried on m one house, and the whole front is covered with boards and mscnptions. As I walked along. I kept glancLf up It these boards, confidently expecting to see a few of them chang^hito something; and I never turned a corner suddenly without SfnVou? for the clown and pantaloon, who. I had no doubt, were hTding^n a doorway or behind some pillar close at hand. As io HarleS Sid Columbme I discovered immediately that they lodged (thev ar^ always lookmg after lodgings in a pantomime) at^a very small c^ock maker s one story high, near the hotel; which in adSn^o vaSs synibols and devices, almost covering the whole front had ISea? dial hanging out-to be jumped through, of course. ^^^ ^ g^^^t th JcftfTh^. f f ' '* P""?^^ u' ^"^^^ "^^"^ unsubstantial-looking than the city. The white wooden houses (so white that it makes one win V to look at them), with their green jalousie blinds are sTsorinlded .^^ dropped about in all directions, without seeming to have an^^^^^^^ all in the ground; and the small churches and chlpels are so Drim .nH bright and highly varnished; that I almost beire^ed ?S who"ealSr Stt'bt'^''" "P P^^^^"^^^^ ^^^^ ^ ^^^^^'« *-y' and^'rtimetinfo a _ The city is a beautiful one. and cannot fail. I should ima^*n*> +^ ITforthe'r^'^r^T^ favourably. The private dweirgTouses and the n,X K ^fT*' ^^T ^"^ "^"^^^^^ the shops extremely good the s^f^mit of . hJ f '" V ^''^'°"'"- "^^' ^^^' H°"«« i« bu/t upon "le summit ot a hill, which rises graduallv at fir«+ nnH o*+«, j by a steep ascent, almost from thfwater's edee In frontt Z"^^"*^' enclosure, called the Common. The slle Is beautTful an^^^^^^^^ inoH 1 ^ 'hJT'^^^ panoramic view of the whole towran?nS4bour L'nL'rlfharbe^ com„,odio,s offices. ftlntLCwo State Zh 'w^/i;J!?„°/i^?^ .?°"«^. of_ Representatives of the PQ T eo,7"K * '-'""""S^- "i Liiu otner. tne benate. Such proceedinPQ as I .aw here, were conducted with perfect gravity and decorum! 28 American Notes Thlf • ^^?*^u?ll"^^*''^ *° ^'P^« attention and respect. There IS no doubt that much of the intellectual refinement and superiority of Boston, is referable to the quiet influence of the Unf versity of Cambridge, which is within three or four Ss of the c^^' The resident professors at that university are gentlemen of learni^; and varied attainments; and are. without one ex?ept rtLf I can cal! to mmd. men who would shed a grace upon, and do honour to anv society in the civilised world. Many of the resident gen?^in Boston and Its neighbourhood, and I think I am not mistaken ^ addhS a large majority of those who are attached to the liberal professSns there, have been educated at this same school. Whatever the defects of American universities may be. they disseminate no prejudfces rear no bigots; dig up the buried ashes of no old superstitions neverlnter nose between the people and their improvement; exclude To man because of his religious opinions; above%:ii. in their whole cours^o^ Z"Jnrti:tn:T^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^ --''' -^ ^ ^-^^ one%:^o? lyinl It was a source of inexpressible pleasure to me to observe th^ almost imperceptible, but not less certain effect, wrough^^^^^^^^ tWs institution among the small community of Boston- and to note a? every turn the humanising tastes and desires it has engendered the affectionate friendships to which it has given rise- the amount of vanity and prejudice it has dispelled. The folden calf they irsWp at Boston IS a pigmy compared with the gilnt efii^ies set uD^n nfh^r parts of that vast counting-house which lies beyofd the AtlLtic and the almighty dollar sinks into something compStelv instnm^ant amidst a whole Pantheon of better gods. P^'^'^^^^y insignificant. Above all. I sincerely believe that the public instifii+inn« o«^ chanties of this capital of Massachusetts are L neLrp^rfe^rL most considerate wisdom, benevolence, and humanity can r^ake them. I never m my life was more affected by the contemplation of happmess under circumstances of privation and berefvement than in my visits to these establishments cavemeni, tnan f hif fh^ ^^^^ ^-^^ P^^^'^""* ^^^^"'^^ °^ ^" «"^h institutions in America that they are either supported by the Stato or assisted by the S-ate' concert w1t\"ft'' '""f ""' "^'?"? ''' ""''P'^^ ^^^d) thatVhey act S concert with it and are emphatically the people's I cannot h„t think, with a view to the principle and its tendency to devate or depress the character of the industrious classes, that ^Public Charitv is immeasurably better than a Private Foundation n^^o+rT^ munificently the latter nxay be end^tl'd'^our own co^^L^r^ It has not. until within these later days, been a very populaVfaThfon with governments to display any extraordinary reg^a?dTr the Sea? mass of the people or to recognise their exi4en?ns improSwe creatures, private charities, unexampled in the history o??he eirth have ansjn. to do an incalculable amount of good amon^the desti t.t. and afflicted But the government of the c^n^r^ h^l^'n^ LI^^^ act nor part m them, is not in the receipt of any portion ofthe"' lot* grati- American Notes 20 tude they inspire; and, offering very little shelter or r«i,-«f k^ ^ ^^ which is to be found in the workhouse AnHfw m I ^^ ^Yond that naturally, to be looked upr by t^e poor rat w' ^ 'r^' "°* "^* quick to correct and punish than a^^fn/ ! f ^ ^^^"^ ^^^t^^"' vigilant in their hour oWd ""^ protector. merciful and tJ^lZ^^^^'nt^ittZe- STh?reS's^oYtr^^^ ^""^^^*^^ ^3^ in Doctors' Commons canbundantK nrote 9 ^- '°^^*^^^ old gentleman or lady, surrounded byL^^^^^^^^^^ "^^ low average, a will a-week. The old gTnttman or iJ^"" "^°'' ^ remarkable in the best of times for go^od tem^^^^ fufenT ''''? pams from head to foot- full of fanr,-^= orT^^ ' ^ i °^ ^^^^^ ^^^ distrust, suspicion, and dishL T^cTncei^^^^^^^^ f,"» °f «Pleen, ones, is at last the sole business of such I 1171'.^'''^.'"'^^"^ "^^^ relations and friends (somrorwLm hp^L t*^';' ^^^^t^nce; and inherit a large share Tthf ^rorrtvL^T.v^^^^ cradles speallly disqualified fZ^dev^otfn"^^^^^^^^ ^^^ pursuit, on that account) arp sn off«« ^^a ''"'^"^seives to any useful farily cut off, ^^relru^^^:Si:^ ^'^^^^^'^^^^'^ ^^'^- family, down to the remote t cousin is keot in ? r,^;^!l w° '^''°'^ length it becomes plain that th^ o Hii/ '^ "Perpetual fever. At to live; and the plaLrtWsl^c'T ^. *e"n,°;fckX"he:Mrd °"« gentleman perceives that evervhnri,r Li^ cieariy the old lady or poor old dying reUtivf whSe the oM T'^^^''^ .^^^^'"^ ^^^^ another last will-podiivdrt^^^^^^^^^^ tl^^ °^ gentleman makes in a china teapot, and expirWnLr?J Th t^ ^^^ «^°^e whole of the rL and peTsS eTal'fs^div^^^^^^^^ chanties; and that the deadanH anr,^ +^ot V u "\^^®®^ half-a-dozen to do a great deal of good at th^^^^^^ '"^ ^"'' '^'^^ ^^^^^ passion Ind misery ^ ' ^°'* ""^ ^"^ immense amount of evil at'btt'^n.'S^'^p^^^^^^^^^^ for the Blind, annual report to^tL corpo^^^^^^^ Thf ^ ^^- *'".'l','' ^^° "^^^e an are admitted gratuitousl? Thot^V^^^^ mdigent blind of that state necticut. or fr^ the states I? M.W adjoining state of Con- are admitted by a warrant from^l!; T^f °"^ ?^ ^^^ Hampshire, belong; or. failW Tha" multTnH ? . "^^'"^ ^^^^ respectively the payment of about Wnf '^5""^*^ ^"'^"^S ^^^^ fiends, for boar^Ind l^stlttanT^e'n^rtSf^^^^^^^^ f^ ^^^^^ hTw^r s^:- ;t,-^^^^^^^^ eaTh^pi^i;: exceed tw^offars per wLk^ T^ ^^ ^^^ ^°^^' ^^^^^ will Jot English; "and he wm be crldSd^^fWK^ ""^"^ *^^" ^^^^t shUlings state, or by his friend. p^S^k u-^^ t^^e amount paid for him by the of th; stocl wh/cHf uses s^^^^^^ ""^^ ""^ ^^^ ^^^ <^o«t " week will be his own Bribe thtdvl^^^^^^^ °"\^°"^^ P«- earnings will mnr. fKo^ ^1.^^^ ^^^ ^^ '^^^f ^. known whether his si>ou,d:hewillhave7tTtSoptrt^^feri^:L^t''rii'e^^ if! 30 American Notes mgs, or not. Those who prove unable to earn their own livelihood will not be letained; as it is not desirable to convert the establishment mto an almshouse, or to retain any but working bees in the hive Those who by physical or mental imbecility are disqualified from work, are thereby disqualified from being members of an industrious community; and they can be better provided for in establishments ntted for the mfirm. • I went to see this place one very fine winter morning: an Italian sky above, and the air so clear and bright on every side, that even mv eyes, which are none of the best, could follow the minute lines and scraps of tracery in distant buildings. Like most other publi- institu- tions m America, of the same class, it stands a mile or two without the town, in a cheerful healthy spoi and is an airy, spacious hand- some edifice. It IS built upon a height, commanding the harbour When I paused for a moment at the door, and marked how fresh and free the whole scene was— what sparkling bubbles glanced upon the waves, and welled up every moment to the surface, as though the world below, like that above. wer« radiant with the bright day and gushing over m its fulness of light: when I gazed from sail to sail away upon a ship at sea, a tiny speck of shining white, the only cloud upon the still deep, distant blue— and. turning, saw a blind boy with his sightless face addressed that way. as though he too had some sense withm him of the glorious distance: I felt a kind of sorrow that the place should be so very light, and a strange wish thflt for his sake It were darker. It was but momentary, of course, and a mere fancy, but I felt it keenly for all that. ^ The children were at their daily tasks in different rooms, except a few who were already dismissed, and were at play. Here, as in many institutions, no uniform is worn; and I was very glad of it for two reasons. Firstly, because I am sure that nothing but senseless custom and want of thought would reconcile us to the liveries and badges we are so fond of at home. Secondly, because the absence of these things presents each child to the visitor in his or her own proper character with Its mdividuality unimpaired; not lost in a dull. ugly, monoton- ous repetition of the same unmeaning garl}: which is really an im- portant consideration. The wisdom of encouraging a little harmless pnde m personal appearance eve i among the blind, or the whimsical absurdity of considering charity and leather breeches inseparable companions, as we do. requires no comment. Good order, cleanliness, and comfort, pervaded every corner of the building. The various classes, who were gathered round their teachers answered the questions put to them with readiness and intelligence' and m a spirit of cheerful contest for precedence which pleased me very much. Those who were at play, were gleesome and noisy as other children. More spiritual and affectionate friendships appeared to exist among them, than would be found among other young persons suffer- ing under no deprivation: but this I exnentpH anH wac r^r-^^^^^A 4.^ hnd. It is a part of the great scheme of Heaven's merciful considera- American Notes 5X tion for the afflicted. In a portion of the building, set apart for that purpose, are work- shops for bhnd persons whose education is finished, and who have acquured a trade, but who cannot pursue it in an ordinary manu- factory because of their deprivation. Several people were at work here; making brushes, mattresses, and so forth; and the cheerf-ilness mdustry. and good order discernible in every other part of the build- mg. extended to this department also. On the ringing of a bell, the pupils all repaired, without any guide or leader, to a spacious music-hall, where they took their seats in an orchestra erected for that purpose, and listened with manifest delight to a voluntary on the organ, played by one of themselves. At its con- clusion the performer, a boy of nineteen or twenty, gave place to a gu-1; and to her accompaniment they all sang a hymn, and afterwards ?u u°!,? "'''• i* ^^^ ""^"^ ^^^ *° ^°«k "Pon and hear them, happy though their condition unquestionably was; and I saw that one blind girl, who (being for the time deprived of the use of her limbs, by Illness) sat close beside me with her face towards them, wept silently the while she listened. ^ It is strange to watch the faces of the blind, and see how free they are from all concealment of what is passing in their thoughts; observ- mg which a man with eyes may blush to contemplate the mask he wears Allowing for one shade of anxious expression which is never absent from their countenances, and the like of which we may readilv detect in our own faces if we try to feel our way in the dark, every Idea, as ic rises within therji, is expressed with the lightning's speed and nature s truth If the company at a rout, or drawing-room at court, could only for one time be as unconscious of the eyes upon them as blind men and women are, what secrets would come out and what a worker of hypocrisy this sight, the loss of which we so liiuch pity, would appear to be ! a Sf W?nl^H°'r""!? ^° "^t ^i ^ '^* ^°^" ^" ^^°*^^^ ^«o°^. before t?^'ul ' ?^' ^""^ '^""'^' destitute of smell; and nearly so of taste: before a fair young creature with every liuman. faculty, and hope and power of goodness and affection, inclosed within her deli- cate irame and but one outward sense— the sense of touch. There ? anf ;.^ '?rT; ^""^^ "P- ^' '^ ^"""' ^" ^ "^^^b^^ ce». impervious t any ray of light, or particle of sound; with her poor white hand peeping through a chink in the wall, beckoning to some good man for help, that an Immortal soul might be awakened radinnf ^H?""-^ I n''^^^ ""P"" ^^^' *^^ ^^^P ^^^ ^''^^^- Her face was radiant with intelligence and pleasure. Her hair, braided by her own d^v.l' ^^%b°""d about a head, whose intellectual capacity and Its bio^r"'' T' ^^f ^^i?"y expressed in its graceful outlinJ. aSd ts broad open brow; her dress, arranged by herfelf. was a pattern of neatness and simplicity; the work she had knitted, lav h««,d« w 1,°. rSn'^J"'^''"!^ "^^ """ ^^^ ^^"^ '^^ ^^^"^d upon.-Fr(;m~the mournful rum of such bereavement, there had slowly risen up this gentle 32 f 1 American Notes tender, guileless, grateful-hearted beinR roi-.;S\:r'e;eUdrrdoiVst\'Xres^^^ ^ '^'^''^ """- "-d I took it up. and saw ttot she had ^,H '*^"°" "I^" the ground. wore hersel?. and fastened ittoufitTmtt^eT """' '"^•' ^' ^'"' for^t ^XZ^'l^t:Z;j:f^^^-^^^ and engaged in an animated commun^lZn fu'"^ *^^ '"'"•^""^ ^i-e beside her. This was a JavourTte SeSwi^i' th^ .'""'""^ ^">° »* couM s. the face of her fair instructor shfw^JlKt^^rieJ'iet -^'o'Z:ZTtt:n^;^Z'^^^^^^!l^^ °'^l^ history, from an .3 a^ver, heautifu. Ind tou?hln7n"artarera„7^^^^^^^ Ha|rpsh^roL%'hrt'^e^i^irof";fetj£.'TSo%h^^^ half old that her parenis K? S^d to re^ hlr Ih"^ "^ ^T '""' ^ severe fits, which seemed to rack Tct Lm^^ 1 S^" ™^ ^"''J«<=t *» of endurance: and life was held bvtl^fc k "* I* "^y""* "^■' ?»«■«■• year and a half old, shriemed^o t»n iJ''^ *^""«- >"■* "hen a "^^h:^hTr'm1„\T'^'""*~ deve'io^dlLmsdtrr^Tdu^nr.rr ^"^ '° *^^^^^ she enlcTyed, she appir?(makr/d^f.\n " ™''?' °' health which stpl^-tetrnd— o^^S^SF^'^^^^^^^^^ and hearing wer^^ne for ^ve? The no^rth'Sf ^ S"**"""^" ^«" ended. The fever rtged durinT..™!,'^ . } s suffenngs were not kept in bed in a S^keJSr^lZZ^l^^l^'Jr "r*"^ ^"^ -"« unsupported, and two years tefor-^hl ^i^ 1°" *^ <=°"'1<* "alk now observed that her sense n?«m^n ?",''' "" "P ^" "^ay- " was and consequently, h"tTert::rrsmtl'ZnO^^^^^^^ heaihItm?d^:stred"/dX wal^^f*"? *■>" ^^ child's bodily ticeship of 'ife and the worid ^"^ *° '"*"■ "P°° "er appren- theTomb"w:re"a;^„T]trTo ^StJ^^ darkness and the sUence of ing smUe, no father°sTOTce taS^SrtT'^fl'^'i-°'^h her answer- brothers and siste-s weie hnf ^„! ^ ^ '™*^** his sounds:_they, touch but whicfdird" oUromThe L'^"?„"romfhr ^*^'' "^^ warmth, and in the now«»r r^f i/^ i^ ^iture ot the house, save in resi«cts'fromthedo7an7the°'cir'"°*'°"' ''"^ °°* «™" '^ *hese at the imu^ortal spirit which had been implanted within her American Notes wi?h the form, density weieht ^nHhi * f *' ""= ^"""^^ 'f'^'""'" lay her hands uponlLToufJed^t t he°/ SeulJ^^Vanr ""} arms, as she was occupied about the hou^ anH hH a "S^ ^"'^ sralittTe"! a'^d t*o° ^^ ^'y*'''". SAt^'ve^ttS t'o" tuJt: M''Tomlr:ttg":^rhe'r ^etr^^' *''^,* *« "P"- that the moral efiects of L7^et^LJ^S!<- ^' T^ '""'*^<^: ^"d Those who cannot be enliehLrrt J™ 1 '°°" ""^^an to appear. by force; and this, coupfedt H^her Llf °riva«L°°'^ "! ^°"*^°"=<J reduced her to a worse condition tL^tl ^ Au°T' ™"=* '°°" have but for timely and unhoped for aW ^' °' *"' '^^''^ *'^* P^"^"", imm^diltd/JSieLrt: Hanove^fsefheV" ??" °H^*' <;''"'^- -<> formed figure- a stronrfj^marl!!^ ^°"°"^ ''«'■ "'th a well- a large an^ biutif'uuTl^ap^edtadSh^^^^^^^^ temperament; action. The parents were eLi^taduced to c"nsentTo h^^^ ^" "'"'l^ Boston, and on the ith of o/i-nho, .0 consent to her commg to Institution. * October, 1837, they brought her to the tw7,^Lu uSltheraretco'::S?e7'''-r'. '''" -'''*»S -"out somewhat familiar wittthTinmrte" the a«emn[ Z"^ '"'f'^' ^"'^ her knowledge of arbitrary «^= k„ v, v ^P* ^^^ "^^^^ to ^ive thoughts with others ^ * ' '^ '^'"'"' *« """^^ interch^ge bund'uTaTngu\V'of™grnn*t°he'"h''°P*fl^'*^^ *° 80 on to -ts?^td^:=^a¥ 9?-p^^ and the mode and cnnriiti/,1^ „* express her idea of the existence, would have beereasy bu? ve/yTnfs"?' ?*5'3',«>ing. The formed difficult, but, if Lc'oSplSLer7e^ efiectTal 1 1"''" ''r^" '"'^ to try the latter. ^ enectual. I determmej therefore use!?u'ch'^t\nTes1:rt IZnTv' \'^''"'« ^^«^'- '" ^■"'"on labels with thei names nrin'l^H.'; ^"r"'/,"- ^"'' "' ^ting upon them carefully, and soon of cm ?,f h" k""''" • u"*.*""' ^"'^ ^^e felt very spoo « differed Ts much fmm /h!'"®'"?''f , *'"" *'^^ "°"''^d line^ dm-ered from the keyTform °°''"' ""'^ * ^^-^ ^^ '^^ ^P°°» the'^':"errpu"i'„tohe?hifdfa„"d'*h *'^ ^^T '^'^^ P""*^'' "P- — •.- •, ,,'^ " "^^ nanas. and she .•so'^n r>Ksof,r«^ 4-v,--^ -^i- aixiiijar to the onp«? npQf<:^H /^r, +1,^ x.- i ~ "i^C, "'"^"^ ^'-^^ i^"<ii. uiey were Of this simikri?rbvTvL/th.lK'^^ ^^^ '^°^"^ ^^^ perception ^^^ miiarity by laying the label h ey upon the key, and the label 34 American Notes \ spoon upon the spoon. She was encouraged here by the natural si^n of approbation, patting on the head. ^ natural sign .^.P^^^f^^ process was then repeated with all the articles which she could handle; and she very easily learned to^l^ZthlZ labels upon them. It ^as evident, however that ^^e onfv inftiH^^^ exercise was that of imitation and memory She recol^^^^^^^^^ ^?^^^:^^^^^^ -^ ^^^^^^^^Z^^n o1 +^ i,^^*^"" ^ "I^'v ' instead of labels, the individual letters were ^iv^n to her on detached bits of paper: they were arranapH ^^XT •? as to spell 6 oo k key, ScJtLn theyVe^e mS up^fa heaJ^^^^^^^ S^rf "^ft ^""^ ^'' *° ^""^"^^ *^^"^ herself so iL?o express the words book.key, &c.: and she did so express the this truth dawned upon ier S "pread ?ts i4m to hTr"/ "T or . ; r \"^ ^"^'"^^ ^^^"^ h^^ded to her. for instance a Dencli Se|rt ?oLr-d ^r^ rh~e'ni^si! — - Sh^ThTrro'^r^p-irtL*-^^^^^^^^^ begun to work i^^^i.rZ^!:^i;^:^^:-l^^ had American Notes 3S A Tl !^ rT^' ^^"* *^^^^ "months after she had com- menced that the first report of her case was made, in which it w^ stated that 'she has just learned the manual alphabet, ns used bvTS deaf mutes, and it is a subject of delight and wonoer to see how rapidly, correctly, and eagerly, she goes on with her labours uZ teacher gives ht: a new object, for instance, a pencil, first lets her examine It. and get an idea of its use. then teaches her how to spell It by making the signs for the letters with her own fingers the chUd grasps her hand, and feels her fingers, as the different letters are formed; she urns her head a little on one side like a person stenrnR closely: her lips are apart; she seems scarcely to breathe- and he? countenance at first anxious, gradually changes to a smile as she comprehends the lesson. She then holds ip her tiny finger^and sp^Us the word m the manual alphabet; next, she takes her t™s?nd arranges her letters; and last, to make sure that she is rS^t she takes the whole of the types composing the word, and pin els them h^'X'whr^Tlr'^ the pencil, or 'whatever the obj£ may ^ The whole of the succeeding year was passed in gratifying her eager mquu-ies for the names of every object which she Sould possibly handle; m exercising her in the use of the manual alphabet; in^extend^ mg m every possible way her knowledge of the physical relat^ns of things; and m proper care of her health. relations oi " 'It has been ascertained beyond the possibility of doubt that she cannot see a ray of light, cannot hear the least sound and never exercises her sense of smell, if she have any. Thus her mind SwelL S nfJ^ 'of ^^"^ '^^^T^' ^' P'°*°"^^ ^' t^^t °f a closed tomb at miS night. Of beautiful sights, and sweet sounds, and pleasant odours bl^wr ^T'P^^°" '. ^^^ertheless. she seems as hCy and pl^^^^^^^ as a bird or a lamb; and the employment of her intellectual facS or the acquirement of a new idea, gives her a vivid pleasure which Ke'l^utT^^l/'J.^^j; ^"P^^"^^ ''^'^'''' ^^eleyT:ee::^t Irepine but has all the buoyancy and gaiety of childhood She is fond of fun and frolic, and when playing with the rest of the children Iher shrill laugh sounds loudest of the group. cniidren. I " 'When left alone, she seems very happy if she have her knitting or sewing, and will busy herself for hours; if she have To occumtiSf she evidently amuses herself by imaginary dialogues, or by re^ca^^^^^^^^ past impressions; she counts with her fingers, or spells out namef of things which she has recently learned, in the manual a^phat^Hf tfld' T*"'- '^.^l' ^°""^y self-communion she seems to reason Ireflect and argue; if she spell a word wrong with the fingers of her b^sLn'of dt' '"' w'!^ ''?^.^ ? "^*^ ^^^^^^*' ^« her Sher does! EieaH^nl ""^^^Sr^tlT 4 "^_^*' *,^- «h- pats herself upon the -, _-_ -....,^^ p-xvaacQ. jfiv aoiiieumes purooseiv sneik a ^x7r,r,i md then with the right hand strikes the left, as if to correct S 'i it . -^i Ma ... i fc - a»fea»gfcii. .i^;^ -/ 36 Amencan Notes " 'During the >car she has attained great dexterity in the use of the manual alphaljet of the deaf mutes; and she spells out the words and sentences which she knows, so fast and so deftly, that only those accustomed to this language can follow with the eye the rapid motions of her fingers. " 'But wonderful as is the rapidity with which she writes her thoughts upon the air, still more so is the ease and accuracy with which she reads the words thus written by another; grasping their hands in hers, and following every movement of their fingers, as letter after letter conveys their meaning to her mind. It is in this way that she converses with h'^r blind playmates, and nothing can more forcibly show the power of mind in forcing matter to its pur- pose than a meeting between them. For if great talent and skill are necessary for two pantomimes to paint their thoughts and feelings by the movements of the body, and the expression of the counte- nance, how much greater the difficulty when darkness shrouds them both, and the one can hear no sound. " 'When Lciura is walking through a passage-way, with her hands spread before her, she knows instantly every one she meets, and passes them with a sign of recognition: but if it be a girl of her own age, and especially if it be one of her favourites, there is instantly a bright smile of recognition, a twining of arms, a grasping cf hands, and a swift telegraphing upon the tiny fingers; whose rapid evolu- tions convey the thoughts and feelings from the outposts of one mind to those of the other. There are questions and answers, ex- changeo of joy or sorrow, there are kissings and partings, just as between little children with all their senses.' "During this year, and six months after she had left home, her mother came to visit her, and the scene of their meeting was an interesting one. "The mother stood some time, gazing ^ith overflowing eyes upon her unfortunate child, who, all unconscious of her presence, was playing about the room. Presently Laura ran against her, and at once began feeling her hands, ex?<,mining. her dress, and trying to find out if she knew her; but not succeeding in this, she turned away as from a stranger, and the poor woman could not conceal the pang she felt, at finding that her beloved child did not know her. "She then gave Laura a string of beads which she i^sed to wear at home, which were recognised by the child at once, who, with much joy, put them around her neck, and sought me eagerly to say she understood the string was from her home. "The mother now sought to caress her, but poor Laura repelled her, preferring to be with her acquaintances. "Another article from home was now given her, and she began to look much interested; she examined the stranger much closer, and gave me to understand that she knew she came from Hanover; she even endured her caresses, but would leave her with indifference at the slightest signal. The distress of the mother was now painful American Notes 37 to behold; for, although she had feared that she should not be recognised, the painful reality of being treated with cold indifierence by a darling child, was too much for woman's nature to bear. "After a while, on the mother taking hold of her again, a vague idea seemed to flit across Laura's mind, that this could not be a stranger; she therefore felt her hands very eagerly, while her coun- tenance assumed an expression of intense interest; she became very pale; and then suddenly red; hope seemed struggling with doubt and anxiety, and never were contending emotions more strongly painted upon the human face: at this moment of painful uncertainty, the mother drew her close to her side, and kissed her fondly, when at once the truth flashed upon the child, and all mistrust and anxiety disappeared from her face, as with an expression of exceeding joy she eagerly nestled to the bosom of her parent, and yielded herself to her fond embraces. "After this, the beads were all unheeded; the playthings which were offered to her were utterly disregarded; her playmates, for whom but a moment before she gladly left the stranger, 'now vainly strove to pull her from her mother; and though she yielded her usual instantaneous obedience to my signal to follow me, it was evidently with painful reluctance. She clung close to me, as if bewildered and fearful; and when, after a moment, I took her to her mother, she sprang to her arms, and clung to her with eager joy. "The subsequent parting between them, showed alike the affection. the intelligence, and the resolution of the child. "Laura accompanied her mother to the door, clinging close to her all the way, until they arrived at the threshold, where she paused, and felt around, to ascert in who was near her. Perceiving the matron, of whom she is very fond, she grasped her with one hand, holding on convulsively to her mother with the other; and thus she stood for a moment; then she dropped her mother's hand; put her handkerchief to her eyes; and turning round, clung sobbing to the matron; while her mother departed, with emotions as deep as those of her child. "It has been remarked in former reports, that she can distinguish different degrees of intellect in others, and that she soon regarded, almost with contempt, a new-comer, when, after a few days, she discovered her weakness of mind. This unamiable part of her character has been more strongly developed during the past year. "She chooses for her friends and companions, those children who are intelligent, and can talk best with her; and she evidently dislikes to be with those who are deficient in intellect, unless, indeed, she can make them serve her purposes, which she is evidently inclined to do. She takes advantage of them, and makes them wait upon her, various ways shows her Saxon blood. "She is fond of having other children noticed and caressed by the i I i '. t; 38 American Notes I I teachers, and those whom she respects; but this must not be carried too far. or she becomes jealous. She wants to have her share, which If not the hon's, is the greater part; and if she does not get it. she savs' 'My mother will love me: b . ^ o^yi>, ';Her tendency tc imitation is so strong, that it leads her to actions which must be entirely incomprehensible to her. and which can give her no other pleasure than the gratification of an internal faculty She has been known to sit for half an hour, holding a book before her sightless eyes, and moving her lips, as she has observed seeing people do when reading. "She one day pretended that her doll was sick; and went through all the motions of tending it. and giving it medicine; she then put It carefully to bed. and placed a bottle of hot water to its feet, laugh- ing all the time most heartily. When I came home, she insisted upon my going to see it, and feel its pulse; and when I told her to put a blister on its back, she seemed to enjoy it amazingly, and almost screamed with delight. "Her social feelings, and her affections, are very strong; and when she is sitting at work, or at her studies, by the side of one of her little friends, she will break off from her task every few moments, to hug and kiss them with an earnestness and warmth that is touching to behold. ; ° "When left alone, she occupies and apparently amuses herself and seems quite contented; and so strong seems to be the natural tendency of thought to put on the garb of language, that she often solUoquizes m the finger language, slow and tedious as it is. But it is only when alone, that she is quiet: for if she becomes sensible of the presence of any one near her. she is restless until she can sit close beside them, hold their hand, and converse with them by signs 'In her intellectual character it is pleasing to observe an insatiable thirst for knowledge, and a quick perception of the relations of things In her moral character, it is beautiful to behold her continual glad- ness, her keen enjoyment of existence, her expansive love, her un- hesitating confidence, her sympathy with sufiEering. her conscientious- ness, truthfulness, and hopefulness." Such are a few fragments from the simple but most interesting and instructive history of Laura Bridgman. The name of her great benefactor and friend, who writes it. is Dr. Howe. There are not many persons. I hope and believe, who. after reading these passages can ever hear that name with indifference. A further account has been published by Dr. Howe, since the report from which I have just quoted. It describes her rapid mental growth and improvement during t ,velve months more, and brings her little history down to the end of last year. It is very remarkable that as we dream m words, and carry on imaginary conversations' in which we speak both for ourselves and for the shadows who appear to us m those visions of thp niahf cr» aha Vio^Mr^nr ^^ 1™ i finger alphabet m her sleep. And it has b^e^ ascertained that w^^n American Notes 39 her slumber is broken, and is much disturbed by dreams, she ex- presses her thoughts in an irregular and confused manner on her fingers: just as we should murmur and mutter them indistinctly, in the like circumstances. I turned over the leaves of her Diary, and found it written in a fair legible square hand, and expressed in terms which were quite intelligible without any explanation. On my saying that I should like to see her write again, the teacher who sat beside her, bade her, in their language, sign her name upon a slip of paper, twice or thrice. In doing so, I observed that she kept her left hand always touching, and following up, her right, in which, of course, she held the pen. No line was indicated by any contrivance, but she wrote straight and freely. She had, until now, been quite unconscious of the presence of visitors; but, having her hand placed in that of the gentleman who accompanied me, she immediately expressed his name upon her teacher's palm. Indeed her sense of touch is now so exquisite, that having been acquainted with a person once, she can recognise him or her after almost any interval. This gentleman had been in her company, I believe, but very seldom, and certainly had not seen her for many months. My hand she rejected at once, as she does that of any man who is a stranger to her. But she retained my wife's with evident pleasure, kissed her, and examined her dress with a girl's curiosity and interest. She was merry and cheerful, and showed much innocent playful- ness in her intercourse with her teacher. Her delight on recognising a favourite playfellow and companion — herself a blind girl — who silently, and with an equal enjoyment of the coming surprise, took a seat beside her, was beautiful to witness. It elicited from her at first, as other slight circumstances did twice or thrice during my visit, an uncouth noise which was rather painful to hear. But on her teacher touching her lips, she immediately desisted, and embraced her laughingly and affectionately. I had previously been into another chamber, where a number of blind boys were swinging, and climbing, and engaged in various sports. They all clamoured, as we entered, to the assistant-master, who accompanied us, "Look at me, Mr. Hart! Please, Mr, Hart, look at me!" evincing, I thought, even in this, an anxiety peculiar to their condition, that their little feats of agility should be seen. Among them was a small laughing fellow, who stood aloof, entertaining him- self with a gymnastic exercise for bringing the arms and chest into play; which he enjoyed mightily; especially when, in thrusting out his right arm, he brought it into contact with another boy. Like Laura Bridgman, this young child was deaf, and dumb, and blind. Dr. Howe's account of this pupil's first instruction is so very striking, and so intimately connected with Laura herself, that I cannot refrain from a short extract. I may premise that the poor boy's name is Oliver Caswell; that he is thirteen years of age; and 40 American Notes that he was in full possession of all his facultip., „n+n +1, four months old. He was then att;^rtiVK ^' x ^*^^ *^^^® ^^^^s and became deaf; in a few weeks mSe h^in J ''^'^'* ^''■"'' ^" ^°"^ ^^^^s showed his anxious Tei^e of ^T.{ 1^^' '" '''' "'°"*^^' dumb. He the lips of other^e'rsoTwhent^^^^ ,f - ^-"ng his hand upon his own ac ,f +^ "^ l- ^^^^^^S> and then putting the right posSioi ' ^' '^ *° ^'^"^" ^^"^^^^f that he had them if soon^'i: hette'rTd'r^^^^^^ ^^- «°-' "P-claimed itself as he could feel or smell in his new^loP..?^''T.'^^"'^^ °^ everything the register of furnace h.^ if. ^''-Z^'" '"'*^"^^' treading upon feel it.\nd soLdiso^er^d the w^^^^^^ and be|an^o upon the lower one- but this wJt^^ ^^ ?® ""PP^^ P^^te moved upon his face, he apZd hfs ToL^^^^^ ^°'' ^^?' «° ^^^^^ down and seemed ti discover that the/ wpI. !?-«"^' *^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^t^er. ^ "His signs were exprls:^ Yn^^^^^^^ f -etal. imitation) he had contrived wlr^ - i?" ^^ '"' ^^^"^t^ ^^ in. .0.4 Of his ^^^^s:^^^-^:^^ omiSd"' sev'er'a steprKrJo^' f ^' ^^ ^^^ ^ther cases, I menced at once with the /nVla^^^^^^^^^ before employed, and corn- articles having short names^such ?. l^^' ^^^'"§^' therefore, several Laura for an auxihar." Tsat IL .nTvl"^' T^' *^- ^^^ with upon one of them, and then wZ\T ^^^'""^ }'' ^^^^> Placed it He felt my hands 4erly w'hToth okT^nTot '^' ''''''' ' ^^• pr cess, he evidently tried to imTfi^^ .? ' ^"1? ^"^ "^^ repeating the a few minutes he coVtr ved toTef the^S°*'°"%°^ "^^ ^^S^^'- ^^ one hand, and holding out the oth.r h^%^ iT"" • ""^ ""^ ^"§^^^« ^ith ing most heartily wKe succeeded ? . r "^ '"^'^^^^ ^^^'^' ^^"S^" to agitation; and the two presented". ^ 7^' ^5^' interested even flushed and anxious! a7d W finlr^ T?"- ^' '• ^^*= ^"' ^^^^ ^^^ closely as to follow e^er^otion bft ^o iX?^ '"^ ^"1°"^ °"^^ «° them; while OHver stood attent^^^ h; J^^*^^ ,^^ ""^t to embarrass turued up. his le?t randgrasn^nri t-^'"^" ^^i^^' ^^^ f^^e every motion of my finSe?s h?.^^ i ' ^""^.^'^ "^^t held out: at tion; there was an LpSn of an^W ^^^^ ^tten- motions; then a smfle^came steal in /o.^ as he tried to imitate the so. and spread int^ a lo^s Wh^th ^' ^' ^!T^^^ ^^ ^^^^^ do felt me p^t his head ind La^ratlap hirr^'t^' succeeded, and and jump up and down^n her Joy ^ ^""^ ^^^'^'^y "P°° the back, seem"eVre[^;ir^t^\Ts ^u'c:!::^ .\^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^n hour, and ills attention then began to flna ' I^a r^ "' s»"""g approbation. *cn uegan to nag. and I commenced playing wit' pee years and in four weeks s, dumb. He often feeling then putting had them in ned itself as f everything eading upon id began to plate moved lying down o the other, s of metal. .1 language, perfect. faculty of as the wav- iilar one for gns and to ler cases, I and com- )re, several , and with I, placed it tters key. )eating the fingers. In ngers with em, laugh- ested even ' face was g ours so embarrass 3. his face Id out: at Jen atten- aitate the could do 3ded, and the back, lour, and robation. ing wit' American Notes 41 him. It was evident that in all this he had n erely been imitating the motions of my fingers, and placing his hand upon the key, cup, &c., as part of the process, without any perception of the relation between the sign and the object. "When he was tired with play I took him back to the table and he was quite ready to begin again his process of imitation. He'soon learned to make the letters for key, pen, pin ; and by having the object repeatedly placed in his hand, he at last perceived the relation I wished to establish between them. This was evident, because, when I made the letters p in, or p en, or c up, he would select the article. "The perception of this relation was not accompanied by that radiant flash of intelligence, and that glow of joy, which marked the delightfrl moment when Laura first perceived it. I then placed all the articles on the table, and going away a little distance with the children, placed Oliver's fingers in the positions to spell key, on which Laura went and brought the article: the little fellow seemed much amused by this, and looked very attentive and smiling. I then caused him to make the letters bread, and in an instant Laura went and brought him a piece: he smelled at it; put it to his lips; cocked up his head with a most knowing look; seemed to reflect a moment- and then laughed outright, as much as to say, 'Aha ! I understand now how something may be made out of this.' "It was now clear that he had the capacity and inclination to learn, that he was a proper subject for instruction, and needed only persevering attention. I therefore put him in the hands of an intelli- gent teacher, nothing doubting of his rapid progress." Well may this gentleman call that a delightful moment, in which some distant promise of her present state first gleamed upon the darkened mmd of Laura Bridgman. Throughout his life, the recollec- tion of that moment will be to him a source of pure, unfading happiness; nor will it shine less brightly on the evening of his davs of Noble Usefulness. The affection which exists between these two— the master and the pupil— is as far removed from all ordinary care and regard as +he curcumstances in which it has had its growth, are apart from the common occurrences of life. He is occupied now, in devising means of imparting to her. higher knowledge; and of conveying to her some adequate idea of the Great Creatoi of that universe in which, dark and silent and scentless though it be to her. she has such deep delight and glad enjoyment. Ye who have eyes and see not, and have ears and hear not; ye who are as the hypocrites of sad countenances, and disf.gure your faces tnat ye may seem unto men to fast; learn healthy cheerfulness, and mild contentment, from the deaf, and dumb, and blind! Self-elected saints with gloomy brows, this sightless, earless, voiceless child may teach you lessons you will do well to follow. Let that poor h?.rxd ^f hers he gently on your hearts; for there may be something in its heal- ing touch akm to that of the Great Master whose precepts you mis- 320* 42 American Notes construe, whose lessons you pervert, of whose charity and sympathy with all the world, not one among you in his daily practice knows as much as many of the worst among those fallen sinners, to whom you are liberal in nothing but the preachment of perdition ! As I rose to quit the room, a pretty little child of one of the attendants came running in to greet its father. For the moment, a child with eyes, among the sightless crowd, impressed me almost as painfully as the blind boy in the porch had done, two hours ago. Ah! how much brighter and more deeply blue, glowing and rich though it had been before, was the scene without, contrasting with the darkness of so many youthful lives within ! At South Boston, as it is called, in a situation excellently adapted for the purpose, several charitable institutions are clustered together. One of these, is the State Hospital for the insane; admirably con- ducted on those enlightened principles of conciliation and kindness, which twenty years ago would have been worse than heretical, and which have been acted upon with so much success in our own pauper Asylum at Hanwell. "Evince a desire to show some confidence, and repose some trust, even in mad people," said the resident physician, as we walked along the galleries, his patients flocking round us un- restrained. Of those who deny or doubt the wisdom of this maxim after witnessing its effects, if there be such people still alive, I can only say that I hope I may never be summoned as a Juryman on a Commission of Lunacy whereof they are the subjects; for I should certainly find them out of their senses, on such evidence alone. Each ward in this institution is shaped like a long gallery or hall, with the dormitories of the patients opening from it on either hand! Here they work, read, play at skittles, and other games; and wheii the weather does not admit of their taking exercise out of doors, pass the day together. In one of these rooms, seated, calmly, and quite as a matter of course, among a throng of mad-women, black and white, were the physician's wife and another lady, with a couple of children. These ladies were graceful and handsome; and it was not difficult to perceive at a glance that even their presence there, had a highly beneficial influence on the patients who were grouped about them. Leaning her head against the chimney-piece, with a great assump- tion of dignity and refinement of manner, sat an elderly female, in as many scraps of finery as Madge Wildfire herself. Her head in particular was so strewn with scraps of gauze and cotton and bits of paper, and had so many queer odds and ends stuck all about it, that it looked like a bird's-nest. She was radiant with imaginary jewels; wore a rich pair of undoubted gold spectacles; and gracefully dropped upon her lap, as we approached, a very old greasy news- paper, in which I dare say she had been reading an account of her own presentation at some Foreign Court. I have been thus particular in describing her, because she will serve to the conl "This the fant by the s lady is 1 else has i mcongn I Ever) la knife i I manner J meal, m [from cu is reduc of restra more ef cuffs, tl I since thi In th( [the tool I on the fc [they wa I carriage sewing s passes I isane ass its proc( would o" American Notes 43 serve to exemplify the physician's manner of acquiring and retaining the confidence of his patients. "This," he said aloud, taking me by the hand, and advancing to the fantastic figure with great politeness — not raising her suspicions by the slightest look or whisper, or any kind of aside, to me: "This lady is the hostess of this mansion, sir. It belongs to her. Nobody else has anything whatever to do with it. It is a large establishment, as you see, and requires a great number of attendants. She lives, you observe, in the very first style. She is kind enough to receive my visits, and to permit my wife and family to reside here; for which it is hardly necessary to say, we are much indebted to her. She is exceedingly courteous, you perceive," on this hint she bowed con- descendingly, "and will permit me to have the pleasure of intro- ducing you: a gentleman from England, Ma'am: newly arrived from England, after a very tempestuous passage: Mr. Dickens, — the lady of the house!" We exchanged the most dignified salutations with profound gravity and respect, and so went on. The rest of the mad-women seemed to understand the joke perfectly (not only in this case, but I in all the others, except their own), and be highly amused by it. The nature of their several kinds of insanity was made known to me in the same way, and we left each of them in high good humour. Not only is a thorough confidence established, by those means, between the physician and patient, in respect of the nature and extent of their hallucinations, but it is easy to understand that opportunities are afforded for seizing any moment of reason, to [startle them by placing their own delusion before them in its most [incongruous and ridiculous light. Every patient in this asylum sits down to dinner every day with knife and fork; and in the midst of them sits the gentleman, whose lanner of deaUng with his charges, I have just described. At every Imeal, moral influence alone restrains the more violent among them [from cutting the throats of the rest; but the effect of that influence [is reduced to an absolute certainty, and is found, even as a means [of restraint, to say nothing of it as a means of cure, a hundred times more eflicacious than all the strait-waistcoats, fetters, and hand- cuffs, that ignorance, prejudice, and cruelty have manufactured [since the creation of the world. In the labour department, every patient is as freely trusted with I the tools of his trade as if he were a sane man. In the garden, and on the farm, they work with spades, rakes, and hoes. For amusement, they walk, run, fish, paint, read, and ride out to take the air in carriages provided for the purpose. They have among themselves a sewing society to make clothes for the poor, which holds meetings, passes resolutions, never comes to fisty-cuffs or bowie-knives as I sane assemblies have been known to do elsewhere; and conducts ail its proceedings with the greatest decorum. The irritability, which [would otherwise be expended on their own flesh, clothes, and furni- y. 44 American Notes ture, is dissipated in these pursuits. They are cheerful, tranquil, and healthy. Once a week they have a ball, in which the Doctor and his family, with all the nurses and attendants, take an active part. Dances and marches are performed alternately, to the enlivening strains of a piano; and now and then some gentleman or lady (whose proficiency has been previously ascertained) obliges the company with a song: nor does it ever degenerate, at a tender crisis, into a screech or howl; wherein, I must confess, I should have thought the danger lay. At an early hour they all meet together for these festive purposes; at eight o'clock refreshments are served; and at nine they separate. Immense politeness and good breeding are observed throughout. They all take their tone from the Doctor; and he moves a very Chesterfield among the company. Like other assemblies, these enter- tainments afEord a fruitful topic of conversation among the ladies for some days; and the gentlemen are so anxious to shine on these occasions, that they have been sometimes found "practising their steps" in private, to cut a more distinguished figure in the dance. It is obvious that one great feature of this system, is the inculca- tion and encouragement, even among such unhappy persons, of a decent self-respect. Something of the same spirit pervades all the Institutions at South Boston. There is the House of Industry. In that branch of it, which is devoted to the reception of old or otherwise helpless paupers, these words are painted on the walls: "Worthy of Notice. Self-Govern- MENT, Quietude, and Peace, are Blessings." It is not assumed and taken for granted that being there they must be evil-disposed and wicked people, before whose vicious eyes it is necessary to flourish threats and harsh restraints. They are met at the very threshold with this mild appeal. All within-doors is very plain and simple, as it ought to be, but arranged with a view to peace and comfort. It costs no more than any other plan of arrangement, but it speaks an amount of consideration for those who are reduced to seek a shelter there, which puts them at once upon their gratitude and good behaviour. Instead of being parcelled out in great, long, rambling wards, where a certain amount of weazen life may mope, and pine, and shiver, all day long, the building is divided into separate rooms, each with its share of light and air. In these, the better kind of paupers live. They have a motive for exertion and becoming pride, in the desire to make these little chambers comfortable and decent. I do not remember one but it was clean and neat, and had its plant or two upon the window-sill, or row of crockery upon the shelf, or small display of coloured prints upon the whitewashed wall, or, perhaps, its wooden clock behind the door. The orphans and young children are in an adjoining building; separate from this, but a part of the same Institution. Some are such little creatures, that the stairs are of Lilliputian measurement, fitted to their tiny strides. The same consideration for their years and ranquil, family, ices and ins of a (ficiency a song: or howl; lay. At )Oses; at arate. •ughout. a very 56 enter- ic ladies 5n these ng their lance, inculca- ns, of a i all the ;vhich is rs, these tOVERN- issumed iisposed 3sary to he very lain and ace and ent, but luced to ratitude at, long, y mope, separate ;ter kind ig pride, [ decent, had its he shelf, wall, or, Duilding; are such at, fitted sars and American Notes 45 weakness is expressed in their very seats, which are perfect curiosi- ties, and look like articles of furniture for a pauper doll's-house. I can imagine the glee of our Poor Law Commissioners at the notion of these seats having arms and backs; but small spines being of older date than their occupation of the Board-room at Somerset House, I thought even this provision very merciful and kind. Here again, I was greatly pleased with the inscriptions on the wall, which were scraps of plain morality, easily remembered and under- stood : such as "Love one another" — "God remembers the smallest creature in his creation:" and straightforward advice of that nature. ^ books and tasks of these smallest of scholars, were adapted, in .ii, ;^ame judicious manner, to their childish powers. When we had examined these lessons, four morsels of girls (of whom one was blind) sang a little song, about the merry month of May, which I thought (being extremely dismal) would have suited an English November better. That done, we went to see their sleeping-rooms on the floor above, in which the arrangements were no less excellent and gentle than those we had seen below. And after observing that the teachers were of a class and character well suited to the spirit of the place, I took leave of the inxants with a lighter heart than ever I have taken leave of pauper infants yet. Connected with the House of Industry, there is also an Hospital, which was in the best order, and had, I am glad to say, many beds unoccupied. It had one fault, however, which is common to all American interiors : the presence of the eternal, accursed, suffoca- ting, red-hot demon of a stove, whose breath would blight the purest air under Heaven. There are two establishments for boys in this same neighbourhood. One is called the Boylston school, and is an asylum for neglected and indigent boys who have committed no crime, but who in the ordinary course of things would very soon be purged of that distinction if they were not taken from the hungry streets and sent here. The other is a House of Reformation for Juvenile Offenders. They are both under the same roof, but the two classes of boys never come in contact. The Boylston boys, as may be readily supposed, have very much the advantage of the others in point of personal appearance. They were in their school-room when I came upon them, and answered correctly, without book, such questions as where was England; how far was it; what was its population; its capital city; its form of gov^- xment; and so forth. They sang a song too, about a farmer sowmg his seed: with corresponding action at such parts as "'tis thus he sows," "he turns him round," "he claps his hands;" which gave it greater interest for them, and accustomed them to act together, in an orderly manner. They appeared exceedingly well-taught, and not better taught than fed; for a more chubby-looking full-waistcoated set of boys, I never saw. The juvenile offenders had not such pleasant faces by a great deal, and in this establishment there were many boys of colour, I saw ■f, f 46 American Notes them first at their work (basket-mak. ig, and the manufacture of palm-leaf hats), afterwards in their school, where they sang a chorus in praise of Liberty: an odd. and, one would think rather aggravating theme for prisoners. These boys are divided into four classes, each denoted by a numeral, worn on a badge upon the arm. On the arrival of a new-comer, he is put into the fourth or lowest class, and left, oy good behaviour, to work his way up into the first. The design and object of this Institution is to reclaim the youchful criminal bv firm but kind and judicious treatment; to make his prison a place of purification and improvement, not of demoralisation and corruption- to impress upon him that there is but one path, and that one sober industry, which can ever lead him to happiness; to teach him how it may be trodden, if his footsteps have never yet been led that wav and to lure him back to it if they have strayed: in a word, to snatch him from destruction, and restore him to society a penitent and useful member. The importance of such an establishment, in every poin+ of view and with reference to every consideration of humanity and social policy, requires no comment. One other establishment closes the catalogue. It is the .xouse of Correction for the State, in which silence is strictly maintained but where the prisoners have the comfort and mental relief of seeing each other, and of working together. This is the improved system of Prison a Discipline which we have imported into England, and which has been I m successful o^/eration among us for some years past. * America, as a new and not over-populated country, has in all h( prisons the one great advantage, of being enabled to find useful ai. profitable work for the inmates; whereas, with us, the prejudice against prison labour is naturally very strong, and almost insur- mountable, when honest men who have not offended against the laws are frequently doomed to seek employment in vain. Even in the United States, the principle of bringing convict labour and free la,bour into a competition which must obviously be to the dis- advantage of the latter, has already found many opponents whose number is not likely to diminish with access of years. For this very reason though, our best prisons would seem at the lirst glance to be better conducted than'those of America. The tread- mill IS conducted with little or no noise; five hundred men may pick oakum in the same room, without a sound; and both kinds of labour admit of such keen and vigilant superintendence, as will render even a word of personal communication amongst the prisoners almost impossible. On the other hand, the noise of the loom, the forge the carpenter s hammer, or the stonemason's saw. greatly favour those opportunities of intercourse— hurried and brief no doubt but opportunities still— which these several kinds of work, by rendering It necessary for men to be employed very near to each other, and » olten side by side, without any barrier or partition between them in M tneir very nature present. A visitor, too, requires to reason and reflect "" a little, before the sight of a number of men engaged in ordinary lor The American Notes 47 labour, such as he is accustomed to out of doors, will impress him half as strongly as the contemplation of the same persons in the same place and garb would, if they were occupied in some task, marked and degraded everywhere as belonging only to felons in jails. In an American state prison or house of correction, I found it difficult at first to persuade myself that I was really in a jail: a place of ignommious punishment and endurance. And to this hour I very much question whether the humane boast that it is not like one, has its root in the true wisdom or philosophy of the matter. I hope I may not be misunderstood on this subject, for it is one in which I take a strong and deep interest. I incline as little to the sickly feeling which makes every canting lie or maudlin speech of a notorious criminal a subject of newspaper report and general sympathy, as I do to those good old customs of the good old times which made England, even so recently as in the reign of the Third King George, in respect of her criminal code and her prison regula- tions, one of the most bloody-minded and barbarous countries on the earth. If I thought it would do any good to the rising generation I would cheerfully give my consent to the disinterment of the bones'of any genteel highwayman (the more genteel, the more cheerfully), and to their exposure, piecemeal, on any sign-post, gate, or gibbet' that might be deemed a good elevation for the purpose. My reason is as well convinced that these gentry were as utterly worthless and debauched villains, as it is that the laws and jails hardened them in their evil courses, or that their wonderful escapes were effected by the prison-turnkeys who, in those admirable days, had always been felons themselves, and were, to the last, their bosom-friends and pot- companions. At the same time I know, as all men do or should, that the subject of Prison Discipline is one of the highest importance to any community; and that in her sweeping reform and bright example to other countries on this head, America has shown great wisdom, great benevolence, and exalted policy. In contrasting her system with that which we have modelled upon it. I merely seek to show that with all its drawbacks, ours has some advantages of its own. The House of Correction which has led to these remarks, is not walled, like other prisons, but is palisaded round about with tall rough stakes, something after the manner of an enclosure for keeping elephants in, as we see it represented in Eastern prints and pictures The prisoners wear a parti-coloured dress; and those who are sentenced to hard labour, work at nail-making, or stone-cutting. When I was there, the latter class of labourers were employed upon the stone for a new custom-house in course of erection at Boston. They appeared to shape it skilfully and with expedition, though there were very few among them (if any) who had not acquired the art within the prison gates. ^ _ne v/omen, axl m one large room, were employed in making light clothing, for New Orleans and the Southern States. They did their work m silence like the men; and like them were overlooked by the i i I 48 American Notes person contracting for their labour, or by some agent of his apnoint- mcnt In addition to this, they are every moment liable to be^vSd by the prison officers appointed for that purpose «r/m^..T^"^^"?K"*'', ^°'' ^°?^^"^' "^^^^^S of clothes, and so forth are much upon the plan of those I have seen at home Their mode of bestowing the prisoners .t night (which is of ^eneLl ad^p^fon^ differs from ours, and is both simple and effective In the centre of a lofty area, lighted by windows in the four walls, are Le tiers 5 cells one above the other; each tier having before ii a ligh ^ iro? gaS' attainable by stairs of the same construction and mairia^exSS the lowc one which is on the ground. Behind these, back to back with them and facing the opposite wall, are five corresponding rows ot cells, accessib e by similar means: so that supposing the prisoners locked up in their cells, an officer stationed on the ground.^w'th hS back to the wall, has half their number under his lye at once the remaining half being equally under the observation of^Lother officer on the opposite side; and all in one great apartment. Unless this watch be corrupted or sleeping on his post, it is impossible fofa man to escape; for even m the event of his forcing the iron door of hls^eU without noise (which is exceedingly improbable), the moment he appears outside, and steps into that one of the five galleries on which Each'orth '' ^' Tl' t' P^^^^^y ^"^ ^""y visible to?hercerb"?ow Each of these cells holds a small truckle bed. in which one prisoner sleeps; never more. It is small, of course; and the door being not soSd but grated, and without blind or curtain, the prisoner within^s at all ^mes exposed to the observation and inspection of any guard 4ho may pass along that tier at any hour or minute of the nifht Ev^r? kShenTr.'^n? ''T" '^''' ^^"\^^ ^^"S^y- th^°"gh ^ trap in tS kitchen wal . and each man carries his to his sleeping cell to eat it where h. is locked up. alone, for that purpose, one hour. The whole of this a.rangement struck me as being admirable; and I hope that the next new prison we erect in England may be built on tKlan I was given to understand that in this prison no swords or fire- arms, or even cudgels, are kept; nor is it probable chat, so long as its present excellent management continues, any weapon, off enfive or defensive, will ever be required within it* bounds Such are the Institutions at South Boston! In all of them the unfortunate or degenerate citizens of the State are carefX in! structed in their duties both to God and man; are surrounded by aU Zt'^^l^ "'^^°' of comfort and happiness that their condition will admit of; ^e appealed to. as members of the great human familv however afflicted, indigent, or fallen; are ruled by tL strong H?art' hL ""k i'^.?® ^^^''S ^t^°"^^ immeasurably weaker) Hand I have ^.n^'.H >*^'? ^* some length; firstly, because their worth de! ^H 1^ '/".^ secondly, because I mean to take them for a model, and to content myself with saying of others we may come to. whose design and nurnose are-, fh^ QQmo 4-KO+ ,•„ 4.u: A .^ ' ,'*""^*' aesign and purpose axe the same practically fail.^or differ. t**«.t iii uiiio ui iii'cii respect they 5 appoint- be visited so forth, r mode of idoption) 2ntre of a •s of cells, 1 gallei-y, excepting : to back ling rows prisoners with his mce; the er ofl&cer iless this or a man if his cell ment he )n which ;r below, prisoner lot solid, I is at all ard who :. Every p in the eat it, e whole >pe that 3 plan. or fire- ig as its isive or ;m, the illy in- J by all ion will family. Heart, 1 have •th de- model, whose 't they American Notes 49 I wish by this accounf of them, imperfect in its execution, but in its just mtention. honest. I could hope to convey to mv readers nn! affortd me"'^ °' ''^ gratificatiL, the siglTtsI haVe'dtcrin; To an Englishman, accustomed to the paraphernalia of West- minster Hall an Amencan Court of Law is as odd a sight ^ I sun pose an English Court of Law would be to an American Sceptfn the Supreme Court at Washington (where the judges wefr a pla n black robe), there is no such thing as a wig or gown coiTnected wSh the admmistration of justice. The gentlemen o? the ba" bdn^ barristers and attorneys too (for there is no division of those function! as in England) are no more removed from their clients than attornevs in our Court for the Relief of Insolvent Debtors are, f rom theS The jury are quite at home, and make themselves as comfortable ag circumstances will permit. The witness is so little elevated above o? put aloof from, the crowd in the court, that a stranger entering during a pause m the proceedings would find it difficult to pick W out from the rest. And if it chanced to be a criminal trial hfs eve m nine cases out of ten, would wander to the dock in search of the prisoner in vain; for that gentleman would most likely be lounging among the most distinguished ornaments of the legal profession whispering suggestions in his counsel's ear, or making Itoothpick out of an old quill with his penknife. ^ tootnpick out I could not but notice these differences, when I visited the courts at Boston I was much surprised at first, too, to observe that the counsel who interrogated the witness under examination at the time did so szmng. But seeing that he was also occupied in writing dowrl the answers, and remembering that he was alone and had no junior I quickly consoled myself with the reflection that law was not quite so expensive an article here, as at home; and tha^ The absence of sundry formalities which we regard as indispensable had doubtless a very favourable influence upon the bill of ?osts ' m every Court, ample and commodious provision is made for the accommodation of the citizens. This is the case all thrL^h America In every Public Institution, the right of the people to attend ^nd to have an interest in the proceedings, is most Lly and dttlnctfy recogmsed. There are no grim door-keepers to dole out their tardv civility by the sixpenny-worth; nor is there. I sincerely belfeveanv insolence of office of any kind. Nothing national isLh Sled for money; and no public officer is a showman. We have begun of late LTth^r^'f^" *?^f ^°°^ f ^°^P^^- ^ ^°P^ ^^ «^^" continf e ?o do s^ converted!'' ''"""' '"^'^ '^'^''' ^^^ "^^P*^^^ "^^y be «.i'i*^^?'''l ''°"'^ ^"^ m''*'°'' "^^^ *^"g' fo^ damages sustained in some accident upon a railwav. Th^ wifneA^o i-o^ u^^^ _. " " ^^ counsel was addressing the juryT The" Iea^n;rgenflemln '(U^a few of his Enghsh brethxen) was desperately loni-winded, ind had I f (I Iff i. IP 5^ American Notes into the service of every sentence he"ut ered I'ii.Tetd to hT',^" about a quarter of an hour; and, cominR out of court ItTh. 1 J of tliat time, witliout tlie faintest ra„„7likI^°'^''P"'**'°" merits of the case, felt f, ^'l^re aTLme^S """* " *° '"^ a charg:Pf'reft 'w"''7bov""TW3''ir/^"'f'.''V/'^ magistrate on apprentice to some respectable master Thur h?« h^? ? ^ •^''""'^ offence, instead of being the prelTcL to "^Tif^^ detection in this I am by no means a wholesale admirer of our le7al <;n?i^ ^;- many of which impress me as being exceedlngriidlcLui^S^^^^^^^ as It may seem too. there is undoubtedly a degreLf nJotec^^^ w,g and gown-a dismissal of individual refponSy in drei n^ for the part—which encourages that insolent bear na In J i ^^^^^^"8 rrrerr4eT,-a"n1a'ndr^^^^^^^^^ prisoners and many witnesses TheiTtt^iVT ^ includes some owf r^l^y'^- ^^ poweriess!td crot. t tSI S^^^^ Blue ladies there are/ irBS^onburnLnv"^' "^^1"°* disappointed, and sex in most other^a^fudes ?hiy^^^^^^^^^^^ superior than to be so. E^ mgelical lad J^f w« , m ^? t^^ought attachment to the forms f,frSi^^l'rv*J^5_^_^.^^,,^^ whose tainments,aremostexempla^I^-es;^oW— -^^ American Notes ing lectures are to be found among all classes and all conditions In the kind of provincial life which prevails in cities such as this the Pu.p.t has great influence. The peculiar province of the Pulp t in New England (always excepting the Unitarian Ministry) would appear to be the denouncement of all innocent and rational amuse- ments. The church the chapel, and the lecture-room, ^re the only means of excitement excepted; and to the church, the ch^.pel. and the 1. cture-room. the ladies resort in crowds Wherever religion is resorted to. as a strong drink, and as an escape from the dull njonotonous round of home, those of ts ministers who pepper the highest will be the surest to please. They whor'ew the Eternal Path with the greatest amount of brimstone, and v. ■ o most ruthlessly tread down the flowers and leaves that griw by t ° w^v- side. ' I be voted the most righteous; and they whS enlarge wi~th the grea^ ' Pertinacity on the difficulty of getting into heav^en wUl be consiu .d by all true believers certain of going there: though it would De hard to say by what process of reasoning this conclusfon s arrived at. It is so at home, and it is so abroad. With regard to ?he other means of excitement, the Lecture, it has at least the merit of being always new. One lecture treads so quickly on the heels of another, that none are remembered; and the course of this month mav i'^tet:{^uXtd' "^^^' ^''' ''' ''-- ^' --^^^ -^-^-. -^ s philosophers known as TranscendentaLts.^On^nqSr Srwhat th" appellation might be supposed to signify. I was given to understand Nnf H r- "^'^ ^^t^^i^t/^igjble. would be certahily transcendental Not deriving much comfort from this elucidation. I pursued the H quiry still f urther^and found that the Transcendentalists are followers of my friend Mr. Carlyle. or I should rather say. of a follower oH^o Mr. Ralph \Valdo Emerson. This gentleman has written a volume of Essays, in which, among much that is dreamy and fanciful (if he wS pardon me for saying so), there is much more that is true and mai^y honest and bold. Transcendentalism has its occasional vagaries W nn^lT' ^^' "°'- ^^."' '' ^^^ ^°°^ h^^^*hf"l qualities in spite o them, not least among the numbe- a hearty disgust of Cant and an aptitude to detect her in all the million vSiet fs of hc^ eve^^^^^^^^ The only preacher I heard in Boston was Mr. Taylor, who addresses himself peculiarly to seamen, and who was once a^ma^i^er hhns3f I found his chapel down among the shipping, in one of the narrow old water-side streets, with a gay blue flag waving freely froi^ftrroof In the gallery opposite to the pulpit were a little choir of male and female sineers. a violnnr.f>lln anH o ,m«i;., ti. u-„ , ^-^^ '^n^ in the pulpit, which was raised on pillars, and ornamented behind him with painted drapery of a lively and somewhat theatrical appeiani^ ilJ 1 i... 1 1 5^ American Notes He looked a weather-beaten hard-featured man of ab out six or f^iaU^ and fifty; with deep lines graven as it were into Ws face darlLTr ^ J^ preheusive in its doctrines, and tSd a tone oTfen'^r^atmnX Wilderness leaning on the arm of her beloved !" ^ ^ He handled his text in all kinds of ways and twisted ,> ,«+« oii weTarn4d?1i.^"* "'"^^^ ingeniously. Ind wTth I^ude ^^^^^^^^^^ well adapted to the comprehension of his hearers Indeed if t k! « * tTanth?dtt'"A'^^^^ ren^arkably good. He spokft^them o "hat' g^rCs'mln LorS Nelson/' and of Collingwood; and drew not^ngfr^s the savin. [, by the head and shoulders, but brought it to bear «nnn hl^^ ^ ' Zf H-,'"S "" ^^ P*'^"? "P ^^<J down thi pulpit wV?TfooWne steadily down, meantime, into the midst of the - ni-r, ■•„■ t? '^ when he applied his text to the first assembag. '"^^> ^l^^rs and Who are these— who are they— who are these fellows? where Hr. inX^r°"^ 'r™ ^''T f " *'^«y soing to?-Come fromTwhaSthe ri^M hL7 -r^^K f °',?^ P"'P"' ^°'' P"'-*'"? downward wth his Stors before iSS'Trom^^^^ '^^l'' "l'^'"' '"<' '"oking a?the hatTes of S. S WH^ °T' "y brethren. From under the uaicnes oi sm, battened down above you by the evil ono Thai-', where you came froml"_a walk up and dJwn the nuS't "»nH where are you going"_stopping ab^ptly: '■wherrLryJu goiS^ ^ofti-^aerlSil' ..^v,^.P°'f "8 "P^^^-i-- ' 'Aloft l'^°J^,IS: wri^autt^t' an*?trim^: e'e„tg"^ir^t^oTH!:t^^^^ where there are no storms or f^l weather and X?e^h. ?'f^.' "Tw'""^ *""""> ^"'^ *•><> weai^'^re ai ^est'^^Anofter'Sl^ Twt l^^^'ty°X'^ ?°'"8 *°- ""y «^°ds. Thafs it. That°s toe oT^e That s the port. Thafs the haven. If., a bl»c=<.^ k,:^.".!;: .3H K^^- there, in all changes of the winds and" tidesFno ^Zg^^^^T^ \ l':>. American Notes 53 the rocks, or slipping your cables and running out to sea there- S-Kf^^^^l^w^'^^"^^ peace !"-Another walk, and patt'ing the Bible under his left arm: "What! These fellows are coming from the wilderness, are they? Yes. From the dreary, blighted wilderness of Imquity. whose only crop is Death. But do they lean upon anything :^lu^^'}^Au "P""" nothing, these poor seamen? "-Three raps upon the Bible: "Oh yes.-Yes.-They lean upon the arm of their Bdoved" -three more raps: upon the arm of their Beloved "-three more, and a walk: Pilot, guiding-star. and compass, all in one. lo all hands- here It is -three more: "Here it is. They can do their seaman's duty ^th fhil''^^ ^^'^ '^.ii^''' "^^^^ ^" *^^ "*"^°^t Pe"l and danger, with this -two more: "They can come, even these poor fellows Ian come, from the wilderness leaning on the arm of their Beloved and go up— up— up! —raising his hand higher, and higher, and higher ^i7t'^'"lP^*'*i°^ °^ *^^ wo^^' so that he stood with it at last stretched above his head, regarding them in a strange, rapt manner and pressing the book triumphantly to his breast, until he gradually subsided into some other portion of his discourse . .^.?^''?^'^^*t^. this, rather as an instance of the preacher's eccen- tricities than his ments. though taken in connection with his look and manner, and the character of his audience, even this was striking It is possible, however, that my favourable impression of him may have been greatly influenced and strengthened, firstly, by his im- pressing upon his hearers that the true observance of religion was not inconsistent mth a cheerful deportment and an exact discharge of the duties of their station, which, indeed, it scrupulously required of them; and secondly, by his cautioning them not to set up any monopoly m Paradise and its mercies. I never heard these t-wo points so wisely touched (if indeed I have ever heard them touched at all) by any preacher of that kind before. '' Having passed the time I spent in Boston, in making myself acquainted with these things, in settling the course I should take in my future travels, and in mixing constantly with its society. I am not aware that I have any occasion to prolong this chapter. Such of Its social customs as I have not mentioned, however, may be told in a very few words. ^ The usual dinner-hour is two o'clock. A dinner party takes place at .r,l T-^ ^* ^u ^Tt"'"^ P^''^^' *^^y s^l^o"^ sup later than eleven; so that It goes hard but one gets home, even from a rout, by midnight I never could find out any difference between a party at Boston and a party m London, saving that at the former place all assemblies are held at more rational hours; that the conversation mav possibly be a il f^ II ^""^ ""^""^ cheerful; and a guest is usually expected to ascend to the very top of the house to take his cloak off; that he is f.f5ro*?ill\flr!!?:f!""^f%^^ unusual amount of pou.Hry on the n^Iwe^"-"' "^ """"•^' ''r"^^^\' ""^ '^^^^ ^° mignty bowis of hot stewed smothered eaSly!" ^ half-grown Duke of Clarence might be fi 'i li '' 13 sjt^f i 54 American Notes laid m a very handsome hall for breakfast anH w hF« table is .ilT^^K V°. **° """idred: sometimes more The advent nf shaki the ver'^'T *•? "^y *^ proclaimed by an awfiuontwhich ^th the ve^ blackest of^r'"'"-^? *" """^ """«'• ^"^ «P"-M«d nrZ fK ?^i""^ii"re, having no curtains to the French bedstead it was a shower-bath ° ^' ^"'* "'«'"' '" *" fi'" "^"^l «>»* CHAPTER IV AN AMERICAN RAILROAD. LOWELL AND ITS FACTORY SYSTEM Lown^r'"^""^ ^°'*°"' ^ '^'™t«"l o"« day to an excursion to ^..,^.., ^i.cii gciicrai cnaracteristics are easily described ° There are no first and second class carriageLs IJith „s,: but there is American Notes 55 whfcf fsTat in%h?1. %*^^'''' l^''- *^^ "^^^^ distinction between nobodv does AsVhlnl^^ everybody smokes; and in the second! Gulliver put to sea in from flit' *'^""^^""|' clumsy chest, such as prppf Hp^i ,;/ ^i7- ' *^^ kingdom of Brobdingnag. There is a mMmmMm who hits his fancy If vou are a?, L^ Uh^ '' "i,' ^ *° ^"ybody «lse says Yes? (interrogatively , and asks in what resoect thfiv Hiffit ^Yes?'"r!r *: *''' ^^■''•^' °* difference, one by oTe and L sivs else ^ ' ""^ *^^* ^^^ *^^ g^^a* sights are somewhere . I miih i - rm 56 American Notes vacates it with great politeness. Politics are much discussed, so are Danks, so IS cotton. [^ aiet people avoid the question of the Presidencv for there will be a new election in three years and a half, and party feeling runs very high: the great constitutional feature of this institu- tion being, that directly the acrimony of the last election is over the acnmony of the next one begins; which is an unspeakable comfort to all strong politicians and true lovers of their country: that is to say to ninety-nme men and boys out of every ninety-nine and a quarter. Itxcept when a branch road joins the main one, there is seldom more than one track of rails; so that the road is very narrow, and the view, where there is a deep cutting, by no means extensive. When there is not the character of the scenery is always the same. Mile alter mile of stunted trees: some hewn down by the axe. some blown down by the wind, some half fallen and resting on their neighbours many mere logs half hidden in the swamp, others mouldered away to spongy chips. The very soil of the earth is made up of minute frag- ments such as these; each pool of stagnant water has its crust of vegetable rottenness; on every side there are the boughs, and trunks and stumps ottrees. in every possible stage of decay, decomposition,' and neglect Now you emerge for a few brief minutes on an open country, glittenn ; with some bright laKe or pool, broad as many an English river, but so small here that it scarcely has a name; now catch hasty glimpses of a distant town, with its clean white houses and their cool piazzas Its prim New England church and school-house; when whir-r-r-r! almost before you have seen them, comes the same dark screen: the stunted trees, the stumps, the logs, the stagnant water—all so like the last that you seem to have been transported back again by magic. ^ The train calls at stations in the woods, where the wild impossi- bility of anybody having the smallest reason to get out. is only to be equalled by the apparently desperate hopelessness of there being anybody to get m. It rushes across the turnpike road, where there it no gate, no policeman, no signal: nothing but a rough wooden arch on which IS pamted "When the bell rings, look out for the LOCOMOTIVE On it whirls headlong, div^s through the woods again emerges m the light, clatters over frail arches, rumbles upon the heavy ground, shoots beneath a wooden bridge which intercepts the light for a second like a wink, suddenly uwakens all the slumbering echoes in the mam street of a large town, and dashes on haphazard pell-mell, neck-or-nothing, down the middle of the road There- with mechanics working at their trades, and people leaning from their doors and windows, and boys flying kites and playing marbles, and men smoking, and women talking, and children crawling, and pigs burrowmg. and unaccustomed horses plunging and rearing, close to the very rails— there— on, on. on— tears the mad dragon of an engine with Its train of cars; scattering in all directions a shower of burnincr S1«f fi'"i-^\'^°°'^ ^?' S'^'^^ect^ing' hissing, yelling, panting; until at last the thirsty monster stops beneath a covered way to drink the American Notes cj people cluster round, and you have time to breathe again I was met at the station at Lowell by a gentleman int'^'o* i nected with the management of the factWfthi^^^^^^ t7wf in" wtch'ihr^^^^^^^^ ^HiTifcf orr° ^'^^"^^"^ Although only just of agei:fo'^ my^SLSecTiLVerv'e mHt harbet a manufacturmg town barely ope-and-twenty Tel^s-iiweiMs a large, populous, thrivmg place. Those indications of its v^th which might have been deposited theron&rdiLTof the wlS the Deluge In one place, there was a new wooden chuTchwhkh having no steeple^ and being yet unpalnted, looked Ske an eAomona packing-case without any direction UDon it In aww «, ' large hotel, whose walls Ind colc^Ldes were so cn^o Ld'^f^^ "^ 2 slight, that it had exactly the appearaLrofbeinrb'^iU ^th ckrd"^^ T IZ f^'"' ""t t° d™* "y breath as we passed, fndtreiSiedwh,!; I saw a workman come out upon the roof 1p«t Jrfti, ^rTv JI^T stamp ol his foot he should ^^s^tte stricfurTbeneatte^?^ bring it rattlmg down. The verv river tw^o„ °?'^^*'» j!"^. and the Inn (for thiy are alf^orreTbTwIt^^S seeL"tot^^^^ " new character from the fresh building of briZ „d S *°h ^„i,"'? " wood among which it takes its course; a^d t "be as bVhfS*!? ttoughtless, and brisk a young river, in to mumuringf ^id ^m' "ter^''°Tro7"'''"'''''r^..*° r- 0°« would "wei^ttTtev"^ to^kltYshut'^t °r 7own"J^r t^ ^SftS" ^"d ^T J"^ t '^'^ yesterday The golden pesLs and molars feed aTsli"„^Z"the sun-blmd frames outside the Druesists" ann»»V^t„ vl^ u^^ .*''® turned out of the United States" St! and w"en I stw a birJ ;^s?scirhar- *^^* " coSii^t-tn^r^Tsun There are several factories in Lowell earh nf wVuVt, v.^^ :'?m:?itra"'cVrra?i^T^^°'^°^^^^^^^^^^ Sno T"^ Pf *■ ^"i* ^"^ *«"' '° their ordinary working a?p«t »X^=MZyl^d^hIttarw"S£^^^^^^^ c^mItT^aH" • f "'"''' """^ ""^^ °^'^"'' ^a-ctory just as the dinner hour was ^hTmm ^\?'"^' ^^^^ returning to their work, indeed the stakHf , the mill were thronged with them as I ascended. They were aS well 58 American Notes dressed but not to my thinking above their condition; for I like to see the humbler classes of society careful of their dress and appear ance. and even, if they please, decorated with such little trinkets as come withm the compass of their means. Supposing it confined with- in reasonable limits., I would always encourage this kind of pride as k worthy element of self-respect, m any person I employed7and should no more be deterred from doing so. because some ^^etched femak referred her fall to a love of dress, than I would allow my (Sructo wiJ^InT '^*r*^^1?'^"^"§^^/^" Sabbath to be influenced by any warning to the well-disposed, founded on his backslidings on that particular day, which might emanate from the rather^ doubtfu authority of a murderer in Newgate. uouotiui These girls, as I have said, were all well dressed: and that rhrase necessarily includes extreme cleanliness. They had serviceable bonnets good warm cloaks, and shawls; and were not above clogs and pattens. Moreover, there were places in the mill in whi^h thev cou d deposit these things without injury; and there were co/ veniences for washing. Thsy were healthy in appearance manvo them remarkably so. and had the manners and deportmeni 5 vounl women: not of degraded brutes of burden. If I had s^en in o^ne of those mills (but I di4 not. though I looked for something of tWs kind with a sharp eye), the most lisping, mincing, affected and rid? culous young creature that my imagination could suggest I should have thought of the careless, moping. slatternV dISaded dull SoTrp<^n he?. "'" ''''^' ^"' ^'°"'' ^^' ^^^^ ^ tXpt'sed"to ..u^! w"?^ '''• '^^'''^ ^^^^ worked, were as well ordered as them- selves In the windows of some, there were green plants which weTe tramed to shade the glass; in all. there was as mudi fresh air cW aS oT oT^*',^' '^" ^^'"^" °^ '^^ occupation would possX admit of. 9ut of so large a number of females, many of whom were only then just vergmg upon womanhood, it may be reasonabTylup! posed that some were delicate and fragile in appearance: no doubt there were. But I solemnly declare, that from all the crowd I saw in f ace ih.T?* '"''^"'^ '"^-^'/f^' ' ^^"^°* '^'^'' ^' separate one yo'ng face that gave me a pamful impression; not one young girl whom assuming It to be matter o^ necessity that she should glin her daUv the possession of these houses, whose character^ have not undergone the most searchmg and thorough inquiry. And complaii.t that is made against them by the boarders, or by any one else, is fully inves! tigated; and if good ground of complaint be shown to exist agaTnst ^r^Tj^^!L^'^ removed.^nd their occupation is handed over to some rn,..,. V.V.V. vuxj^ peison. xnere are a few children employed in these factories, but not m^ny. The laws of the State forbid their workSg i American Notes 59 J V4 more than nine months in the year, and require that thev be ediiMt»H during the other three. For this puri>ose there are spools in w!? and there are churches and chapels of various persuasions in whfch At some distance from the factories, and on the highest anH pleasantest ground in the neighbourhood. stanS^hel h& w°.f hnlf; h°'''' ^""^ *^' r ^' '' '' '^^ ^^«* ^^""'^ in those pa?ts? and was built by an emment merchant for his own residence Like thaf mstitute at Boston, which I have before described. UsTotparc^^^^^^^ out into wards, but is divided into convenient chambers^tlch of which has all the comforts of a very comfortable home. S prTncipa medical attendant resides under the same roof; and were the^pSts members of his own family, they could not be better cared for or attended with greater gentleness and consideration. The weekly charge m this establishment for each female patient is three dSl^s^ or twelve shillings English; but no girl employed by any of the c^r-' porations is ever excluded for want of the means of payment That facT "nTuTv^xsTx'^'V^^ T.""^' "^"^ ^^ gathered from the lact that in July. 1841, no fewer than nine hundred and seventy- eight of these girls were depositors in the Lowell Savings Sank' the amount of whose joint savings was estimated at one hundred thou- sand dollars, or twenty thousand English pounds ""'''''^^'^ ^^°^' I am now going to state three facts, which will startle a large class of readers on this side of the Atlantic, very much in Jwic^^f ^ '^f^ joint-stock piano in a great many of the board- ing-houses. Secondly, nearly all these young ladies subscrihp fn circulating libraries. Thirdlyf they have got up among themselves a periodical called The Lowell Offering. ''A repository ofoS ^ticles. writt^en exclusively by females actively employed If the mills, -which is duly printed, published, and sold; and whereof I brought away from Lowell four hundred good solid pages which I have read from beginning to end. ^^ ' ^ ^ wiS'L^f ^^•''^^'^x?* ''^^^^'■^' ^*^^*^^^ ^y *^«se facts, will exclaim with one voice. "How very preposterous!" On my deferentially S quirmg why. they will answer, "These things are above tSir statL^' In reply to that objection. I would beg to Isk what their stato^^^^^ It IS their station to work. And they do work. They labour in these mills, upon an average, twelve hours a day. which is unquestionablv work and pretty tight work too. Perhapsit is above ?LTr statTon S indulge m such amusements, on any terms. Are we quite sure that we m England have not formed our ideas of the "station" of working people, from accustoming ourselves to the contemplation of that class as they are. and not as they might be.? I think that if we examine our ow. 'eelmgs. we shall find that the pianos, and theclrcuS libraries, and evpn th*» Ty^w«n nff^r.; „^„-xi_ .._ ,. ,, ^"^uidtmg J . ' i / . — — """ -'-^^^^"^5. staitic uo uy tneir noveltv ^TOHg ^^^"°^ "^°'' ^""^ ^^ -^^^^^ ciuestioij of right or , i I I'l 6o American Notes .hl/f I^^^S ' ^?^J^° station in which, the occupation of to-day cheerfully done and the occupr.tion of to-morrow cheerfully looked fkn^nw n^'ntf^l k?k""^*' !f "°] ""^'^ humanising and laudable. I know no station which is rendered more endurable to the person in It. or more safe to the person out of it. by having ignorance for its ZlTni^ ^"T"°. ''^.'^°^ ^^^^^ ^^' ^ "g^t to monopolise the means of mutual instruction, improvement, and rational entertain- ment, or which has ever continued to be a station very lone after Seeking to do so. ^ °' Of the merits of the Lowell Offering as a literary production I will only observe, putting entirely out of sight the fact of the articles having been written by these girls after the arduous labours of the day. that It will compare advantageously with a great many English Annuals It is pleasant to find that many of its Tales are of the Mills and of those who work in them; that they inculcate habits of self- denial and contentment, and teach good doctrines of enlarged benevolence A strong feeling for the beauties of nature, as displayed m the solitudes the writers have left at home, breathes through its pages like wholesome village air; and though a circulating library is a ?.T/o i^ school for the study of such topics, it has ver^ scant allu^ sion to iJne clothes, fine marriages, fine houses, or fine life. Some ?.?w fi""'^^* °^Jl^V*° *^« papers being signed occasionally with rather fine names, but this is an American fr- ,hion. One of the oro- yinces of the state legislature of Massachusetts is to alter ugly names mto pretty ones, as the childr-. improve upon the tastel of their parents. These changes costing little or nothing, scores of Marv Annes are solemnly converted into Bevelinas every session ri!;r!f M^ ^^^^ °? the occasion of a visit from General Jackson or General Harrison to this town (I forget which, but it is not to the purpose) he walked through three miles and a half of these young ladies all dressed out with parasols and silk stockings But as I am not aware that any worse consequence ensued, than a sudden lookine- up of al the parasols and silk stockings in the market; and perhaps the bankruptcy of some speculative New Englander who bought W?no Itll t?^ P K^'^vi?' expectation of a.demand that never came; 1 set no great store by the circumstance. ^?i^^f>"ff account of Lowell, and inadequate expression of the gratification it yielded me. and cannot fail to afford to any foreigner to whom the condition of such people at home is a subject of interest and anxious speculation. I have carefully abstained from drawing a comparison between these factories and those of our own land Many of the circumstances whose strong influence has been at work for years in our manufacturing towns have not arisen here; and there is no manufacturing population in Lowell, so to speak: for these girls (often the daughters of small farmers) come from other States remain a few years in the mills, and then go home for good n ''T ''^"^''.f .Y'^V.^'^. be a strong one. for it would be between the Good and Evil, the living light and deepest shadow. I abstain from it American Notes 6i because I deem it just to do so. But I only the more earnestly adjure ^In fll"^ S'^'^^^'w^ '^'* ""^ *^^"^ P^g^«' to pause and reflect upon the difference between this town and those great haunts of desperate misery: to call to mind, if they can in the midst of party strife and squabble the efforts that must be made to purge them of their suffermg and danger: and last, and foremost, to remember how the precious Time is rushing by. r.l ^;^t"^^^l^*= ^ig^t by the same railroad and in the same kind of a^l'Sr .w^ passengers being exceedingly anxious to expound at great length to my companion (not to me. of course) the true prin- ciples on which books of travel in America should be writteS by Englishmen. I feigned to fall asleep. But glancing all the way out at window from the corners of my eyes. I found abundance of entertain- "'i!"t^'"i K^ ''^'* °^ ^uf ""^^ ^^ watching the effects of the wood fire which had been invisible in the morning but were now brought out in hrUf i .^ the darkness: for we were travelling in a whirlwind of bright sparks, which showered about us like a storm of fiery snow CHAPTER V WORCESTER. THE CONNECTICUT RIVER. HARTFORD. NEW HAVEN. TO NEW YORK Leaving Boston on the afternoon of Saturday the fifth of Februarv we proceeded by another railroad to Worcester: a pretty New England town, where we had arranged to remain under the hospitable ro^of the Governor of the State, until Monday morning °'P''''^'® Sv ?!, • ^"S^^?^)' are as favourable specimens of rural America as their people are of rural Americans. The well-trimmed lawns and green meadows of home are not there; and the grass, com- w .T:J*1? o^^ .ornamental plots and pastures, is rank. Ind ^ough and wild: but delicate slopes of land, gently-swelling hills, wooded valleys and slender streams, abound. Every little colony of houses rooVl'nS r."? T^ school-house peeping from among"^ the white Vpn!f . w '^J'iJ^^'' ^""^'^ ^°"'^ '^ t^^ ^^itest of the white; every Wn.!? f.i. Ki"^ *^^ P^^^'* °^ t^^ g'"^^"' every fi^e day's sky tS bluest of the blue. A sharp dry wind and a slight frost had so hardened wer. ifi?' '^H^''' ^' alighted at Worcester, that their furrowed tracks were like ridges of gramte. There was the usual aspect of newness on buil7and^'''' f h'?w'- ^'' '^^ ^^^^^^"g^ l°^k-d a^ if they hTd been ^^^^i^^fitl":.^.!^?^^^^^ -"1^. ^^ t-^- ^-wn In Monday Innto^"/ r""j '""'7:''"- -"^"^^ ^ccii evening air, every sliarp outline cdonn.l« r^''^ ^'"""^ '^^'P"' *^^" ^^^^- The clean cTrdboard colonnades had no more perspective than a Chinese bridge on a tea- I 6^ American Notes ^^Lo ?.tPP?^^^l^^''*"y ^^" calculated for use. The ra2or-like edges of the detached cottages seemed to cut the very wind as it whistled against them, and t.. send it smarting on it7way with a SdwhTch\t".^''°''- T?°^^ slightly-builf wooden Jw^^ngs Wir^M ^ u*"® ''^'' "^^^ ^^**^"g ^it^ a brilliant lustre, could be so iwefoh?H°K^^ and through, that the idea of any inhabitant beinR ?he n,?Wi> t '^" ^'T ^^^ P"^^^' «^^^' °^ to have any secrets frorS W..F" i T' "^^1^°* entertainable for a moment. Even where^ house ^it hid t°h"' *^^7«^.*^« uncurtained windows of sor^e distant and fniin .f \' ""^-^^'"^ "^^^y ^^8^*^^' ^"d of lacking warmth' ?.ol .1 fl^l^'^^^^^'^g thoughts of a snug chamber bright with wUh wafmTanr..'^f. 1^^"' ^°""^ *^^^ ''^' hearth, anfru^dy new mTt^r anSSp waC' "P°" '"^ ^"^^^^*^^^ ^' ^^^ ^"^^^' ^^ wa!°shinW ^Hahf/^^'*'^*^;* ^T^"^"S- ^^^* "^^"'^i^g when the sun was Shining brightly, and the clear church bells were rin^ina an^J sedate people in their best clothes enlivened the pathwafnfkr at SaSba?S^.et"f 1 *^' ^"*""* *^^^^^ °^ ^°^^' the™ a^^pS^^^ saDbath peacefulness on everything which it w^q ar>r^H f/^*Iti tZ rve?^;;? Li? 4'^'^*^^h^ f ^^ ^^''^^"-^' ^««- s^tnirsom o d the scene which Tff.V^.ir^ 'ff ""^ ''^'^ ^"^ tranquillity pervaded do:brg;aTet^^^^^^^^^^^ -^ *^« ^--d ci?y. had a thlXTtoHarTflT'^v^^^^ ''^" ^y '^^^^°^^' t« Springfield. From five and Lin? °^'»7?'*^^'' "^^ ^^^^ ^°""d' ^^ a distance of only SJttw r''*^ °'''^^' ^"t ^t that time of the year the roads were so hoL Fortunirr^^^ "°"'^ P.^°^"^^y ^^"^ °^^"Pi«d ten orTw Ive the CorneSt fe^^^^^ '^'^'"" ^^^'""^ ^""" unusually mild! tJIV^!^? • . ^^^ "^^^ "open," or, in other words, not frozen the seasortht^^'^'^.V'*'^^^^^^^ S°^"g to make his first tr?p for tne season that day the second February trio I beli^vp wi+>,i« fvll memory of man), and only waited for usX go on boarLrrdS^^^^^ we went on board, with as little delay as milht be He w^ argood Is his word, and started directly ^ ^°°^ ^^ om^i^tteftollTSf n''^^'^"'^ ^ f"'^" steamboat without reason. I aS,ut Llf fJ^ question but I should think it must have been of have lived IZI JT""' ^'■- ^^^^' *^^ celebrated Dwarf, might nave lived and died happily in the cabin, which was fitted wlfh common sash-windows like"^ an ordinary' Snrhouse T^se winaows had bright-red curtains, too. hung on slack strings across hoi rwS hid V'.^'i* ^?-'^' '^' ^ P^^^°- °" aSSpubTi" ?^i ' "^J^eji.ha^ got afloat m a flood or some other water accident was Z^f^^^'J^'^r^l/ '^''Z r ^^" ^"^ ^^^^ - thisThamrer the" e WicTw^u^^^^^^ '^ g^^ - -y-here, in n, J.f,"i/i't^L*l*.^i^°^ P^^ f-^t short this vessel was. or how meas'uremenrwnnM''K "^^'' ^^^e words length and width to such measurement would be a contradiction in terms. But I may state American Notes g^ forming a warm sandwich, about three feet thick ''°'* inrSfhu'idtjflc^oS*^^^^^^^^^^ ice. which were constantly crunching an 7rr. A ?*'"^ ^^°^^^ °^ depth of water, in the cLrse we tLk ^^^^^^^ "'' ^"^ '^"^ , carried down the middle of the riv^r hxffvl the larger masses. !few inches. NeverthS we moveJ o^^^^^^ did not exceed a I well wrapped up. bade drfiance to ^Srweather Tnd'^Jnf"^^^^^ pumey. The Connecticut River il\^^LZt ' f enjoyed the summeUmeare.Ihavenodoubt beaJ^^^^^^ the banks in -Jif^d.. wej-e very conducfveTe^rTy rising" """°'* "^^ P""=« bal' S"^tn'Sls°"theTi.^sUr '^!'-"t»-"y -tuated in a improved It is the seat nfthiw,!*'- ,™f"-™°<led, and carefully sage body enacted in bveone ^^i!^?^^'"'' °' Connecticut, which bnioird3S5?3-r not tended, that I Jow. to maLTe pLp°:"^ess haSte thrh**^ P am accustoS with Vfe"ence*to '^^^^^ ^^''- I-d^^d. Jfaces, to judge of the ^rifrtf ^? tl *f *^* professions and severe judge the goSs of this ?nH 1 °*^^^ '^"''^ P"«"y ""^ as I lust the same as at Bos w fl l\ • ''"'''^ *^^ ^°"^*s «* ^^w here, lns\ns7u*,ir*rer^S!?.'::j;riL-i.r^'''i^. '-j-^i the P'thfs^o^ct^r/rrS:/^™™ r octor. m reference to the persons under their charge. Of i» t E< < If'f m lit' 64 American Notes course I limit this remark merely to their looks; for the conversation of the mad people was mad enough. There was one little, prim old lady, of very smiling and good- humoured appearance, who came sidling up to me from the end of a long passage, and with a curtsey of inexpressible condescension, propounded this anaccountable inquiry: "Does Pontefract still flourish sir, upon the soil of England?" "He does, ma'am," I rejoined. "When you last saw him, sir, he was " "Well, ma'am," said I, "extremely well. He begged me to present his compliments. I never saw him looking better." At this, the old lady was very much delighted. After glancing at me for a moment, as if to be quite sure that I was serious in my respectful air, she sidled back some paces; sidled forward again; made a sudden skip (at which I precipitately retreated a step or two); and said: "/ am an antediluvian, sir." I thought the best thing to say was, that I had suspected as much from the first. Therefore I said so. "It is an extremely proud and pleasant thing, sir, to be an ante- diluvian," said the old lady. "I should think it was, ma'am," I rejoined. The old lady kissed her hand, gave another skip, smirked and sidled down the gallery in a most extraordinary manner, and ambled gracefully into her own bed-chamber. In another part of the building, there was a male patient in bed; very much flushed and heated. "Well," said he, starting up, and pulling off his night-cap: "It's all settled at last. I have arranged it with Queen Victoria." j 'Arranged what?" asked the Doctor. "Why, that business," passing his hand wearily across hjs fore- head, "about the siege of New York." "Oh I" said I, like a man suddenly enlightened. For he looked at mc for an answer. "Yes. Every house without a signal will be fired upon by the British troops. No harm will be done to the others. No harm at all. Those that want to be safe, must hoist flags. That's all they'll have to do. They must hoist flags." Even while he was speaking he seemed, I thought, to have some faint idea that his talk was incoherent. Directly he had said these words, he lay down again; gave a kind of -> groan; and covered his hot head with the blankets. There was another: a young man, whose madness was love and music. After playing on the accordion a march he had composed, he was very anxious that I should walk into his chamoer, which I immediately did. — ,- J 1^ .»..j. - his bent. )f ht I went I* t*\.^ Tr ill iiliii to the window, which commanded a LiiU t(Jp Oi beautiful nversation and good- ie end of a lescensipn, and?" to present [lancing at ous in my ird again; 2p or two); d as much e an ante- irked and id ambled nt in bed; ?: "It's all 3 his fore- ked at mo )n by the Lrm at all. ey'll have lave some said these )vered his love and iposed, he , which I LiiC LOp Ui beautiful Aiiiericaii Notes 65 prospect, and remarked, with an address upon which I greatly i>liinied myself: *^ gicdny ^-What a delicious country you have about these lodgings of "Pohl" said he, moving his fingers carelessly over the notes of hU .nstrument: ;P^.// enough for such an InstitutLZ7thi!r I don t thmk I was ever so taken aback in all my life 4hl That "a\ir ti^l^"^'" '^ '""^ ^°°"^- '^^'"^'^ ^'•' ., ''y,^^- That's all The Doctor's a smart man. He quite enters into It. It 8 a ]oke of mine. I like it for a time. You needn't men "on "t but I thmk I shall go out next Tuesday 1" luenuon it, I assured him that I would consider our interview perfectly confidential; and rejomed the Doctor. As we were passing throueh a gallery on our way out. a welWressed lady, of quiet and coSed manners, came up. and proffering a slip of pape? and a pen K^ paid.'"'' ^ ^' ^"" "^''^ ^^ autograph. I complied/ and^^^ 1 i\**''^^^ J ^^"'^"'i'f ^^^i"g had a few interviews like that t ith ladies out of doors. I hope she is not mad?" '|0n what Subject? Autographs?" "No. She hears voices in the air." "Well!" thought!, "it would be well if we could shut up afew false prophets of these later times, who have professed to d? the same begin ^th"'' " '" '"^ '^' experiment o^n a Mormonist or two to In this place, there is the best Jail for untried offenders in the world. There is also a very well-ordered State prison, arranged upon the same plan as that at Bo3ton. except that here, therels always a sentry on the wall with a loaded gu.. It contained it that l!me about two hundred prisoners. A spot was shown me in the sleepSg ward where a watchman was murdered some years since in the deld of mght, m a desperate attempt to escape, made by a priiner who had broken from his oell A woman, too. was pointed out to me. who for the murder of her husband, had been a close prisoner for s^ieen "Do you think." I asked of my conductor, "that after so very SiWtT""""*' "''" ""'' '"^ ''''"'^' °' ^°P^ "' ever regaining "Oh dear yes," he answered. "To be sure she has." bhe has no chance of obtaining it, I suppose >" .'w n** ^^f y/*^l' *^^y couldn't get her out. I suppose?" Well, not the first time, perhaps, nor yet the second 1 321 tiring American Notes 66 and wearying for a few years might do it." "Does that ever do it?" "Why yes, that'll do it sometimes. Political friends'll do it some- times. It's pretty often done, one way or another." I shall always entertain a very pleasant and grateful recollection of Hartford. It is a lovely place, and I had many friends there, whom I can never remember with indifference. We left it with no little regret on the evening of Fridr-y the nth, and travelled that night by railroad to New Haven. Upon the way, the guard and I were formally introduced to each other (as we usually were on such occasions), and exchanged a variety of small- talk. We reached New Haven at about eight o'clock, after a journey of three hours, and put up for the night at the best inn. New Haven, known also as the City of Elms, is a fine town. Many of its streets (as its alias sufficiently imports) are planted with rows of grand old elm-troes; and the same natural ornaments surround Yale College, an establishment of considerable eminence and repu- tation. The ' arious departments of this Institution are erected in a kind of park or common in the middle of the town, where they are dimly visible among the shadowing trees. The effect is very like that of an old cathedral yard in England; and when their branches are in full leaf, must be extremely picturesque. Even in the winter time, these groups of well-grown trees, clustering among the busy streets and houses of a thriving city, have a very quaint appearance: seeming to bring about a kind of compromise between town and country; as if each had met the other half-way, and shaken hands upon it; which is at once novel and pleasant. After a night's rest we rose early, and in good time went down to the wharf, and on board the packet New York for New York. This was the first American steamboat of any size that I had seen; and certainly to an English eye it was infinitely less like a steamboat' than a huge floating bath. I could hardly persuade myself, indeed, but that the bathing establishment off Westminster Bridge, which I left a baby, had suddenly grown to an enormous size; run away from home; and set up in foreign parts as a steapier. Being in America, too, which our vagabonds do so particularly favour, it seemed the more probable. The great difference in appearance between these packets and ours, is, that there is so much of them out of the water: the main-deck being enclosed on all sides, and filled with casks and goods, like any second or third floor in a stack of warehouses; and the promenade or hurricane-deck being a-top of that again. A part of the machinery is always above this deck; where the connecting-rod, in a strong ar^; lofty frame, is seen working away like an iron top-sawyer. Ther^ is seldom any mast or tackle: nothing aloft but two tall black chimneys. The man at the helm is shut up in a little house in the fore part of tllP hnnf {■^Ytfi wViool Vioirirr />i-\rir»or>f«y4 ori^-V. 4-V>^ ^..J.1_» 1 : _i _• _ ^ , ,„_,„, j^ v-_-iiiiT.VLt.ti YTXi-ii tHc X uuuci uy null Cilcims, working the whole length of the deck); and the passengerc, unless American Notes 5^ the weather be very fine in(>prl iic»nii„ ^ . , ' you have left the wharf Xhe lil^i Jcf"^'^?^ ^^^°^- ^^^^^tlv cease. You wondeXr a lonftim^ h. ?'"' ^"""^ ^"'^^^ °^ « P^^^ket to be nobody in charge of he^^^T '^^ ^^^^ «"' ^^^ there seems machines corses spthfnVoy.'^'ou feel qufte indi^' ."' t^.^^^ ^"" sullen, cumbrous ungraceful unshinHi.^V indignant with it. as a that the vessel you afe^'^bLTo'ft^^^^ vTrV^oTntetan ^^^^^^ yolr^flre; f SL^ fa^^^.'.^ ,t?agT In'd ^^tf "^^^^^ ^^ P^^ room; and in short a greai vS of nlni .?^ '°2"''' ^"gi^eer's discovery of the gentleman's cabin f ^P^^f ^'^^"^^^^^ ^^"^^^ the It often^ccupies trSe Lngth o? the "oat Li dT^ .^.'^^"^^y- and has th e or four tiers of Wi^c^ ^u -/^^ ^"^ ^^^^ ^ase). descended into theTabrof^L'SL" Vo'rk if Too^^ •' ^^^^ unaccustomed eyes, about as long as the Burltgton ^^1 '" "'^ The Sound which has to be crossed on fT„-c ^ ^ Arcade. v.ry safe or pleasant navigation Id has^^^^^^^^^ unfortunate accidents It was ^ w^f^ ■ "^ ?^ ^^^"® of some we soon lost sight ofiand The drv w?,Ti"^\^"^ ^"^ "^^^^y- ^"^ ened towards noon After exhaus^i^Jf??""' ^^^^^^r. and bright- the larder, and the'stoctoT^^td !, ^I fav dowJtoT ^ '^ ^^ very much tired with the fatigues of y;sterdav B^if T ^^E' ^/'"^ my nap in time to hurry ud and «;pp MliTr- f ^'t. tt ^ ^°^® ^^^m Frying Pan. and otSotorious locaHtii ^Jr *^^ "^^'^ ^^^k' ^^e of famous Diedrich Kni?Scker'f hSo^^^^^^ *° ^" '^^^^'^ narrow channel, with sloping banks on ^ill^-^^t "^^""^ "**^ ^^ a pleasant villas, and madrref reSi^^^^^^^ ^^th Soon we shot in qu^fsucfessSi Vast ^"iSf^^ ^^ *"'^ ^"^ *^^^^- (how the lunatics flung urthefr canrand rn/^^ ^ madhouse Cloudless s^^^^^^^^^^^ ^:^e;^;:^^^^^^ «. no^w heJps^y^Sfd^ls^^^^^^^^^^^^^ -' trthe'^Sglf confused dow^n upon the feW'b^'lo'w" a^^^^^^^^^^ Se^Igtn^^^el^l^? lazy smoke; and in the forparonnri o , " '"f^v . ^gam, a cloud of with flappiAg sails and wavf„r/aicms^'°^='''P^' -^t^- -cheery the oppositelhore. were steSerrTboaSTaSf „ Sh ^ri^ ^''"i *° restless Insects, wire two or three CI l'"' "*^'"''^ ^""""K t*'^^^ majestic pace, 'as crea ures of ap'oX SS'' dTrt^""^, 7"? ^^"'^ puny journeys, and making for the broad sea R^^^h"' "l*''^''" heights, and islands in the rfandn^ stl t' ?^°?''; "'^'^ *'"™E less blue and bright than theTky ?!eemed to meef TW-.^^T^'^ I »ibu..._the_clinking of capsta':,s, tS rtaeta "„f Ll'^t.'Lt.l^l'J" •-■^uugb, tne ciattenng of wheels tinf??:»H in+i7^ r Z~"-'' ""^ ^-a^i^nig ^ Which life and stir. coLng ac^rt Stt^i^g^tttcrulhTneru?: I i\ I i if.! K h I I 68 American Notes and animation from its free companionship; and, sympathising with its buoyant spirits, glistened as it seemed in sport upon its surface, and hemmed the vessel round, and plashed the water high about her sides, and, floating her gallantly into the dock, flew off again to welcome other comers, and speed before them to the busy port. CHAPTER VI NEW YORK The beautiful metropolis of America is by no means so clean a city as Boston, but many of its streets have the same characteristics; except that the houses are not quite so fresh-coloured, the sign- boards are not quite so gaudy, the gilded letters not quite so golden, the bricks not quite so red, the stone not quite so white, the blinds and area railings not quite so green, the knobs and pUtes upon the street doors not quite so bright and twinkling. There are many by- streets, almost as neutral in clean colours, and positive in dirty ones, as by-streets in London; and there is one quarter, commonly called the Five Points, which, in respect of filth and wretchedness, may be safely backed against Seven Dials, or any other part of famed St. Giles's. The great promenade and thoroughfare, as most people know, is Broadway; a wide and bustling street, which, from the Battery Gardens to its opposite termination in a country road, may be four miles long. Shall we sit down in an upper floor of the Carlton House Hotel (situated in the best part of this main artery of New York), and when we are tired of looking down upon the life below, sally forth arm-in-arm, and mingle with the stream? Warm weather! The sun strikes upon our heads at this open win- dow, as though its rays were concentrate/i through a burning-glass; but the day is in its zenith, and the season an unusual one. Was there ever such a sunny street as this Broadway! The pavement stones are polished with the tread of feet until they shine again; the red bricks of the houses might be yet in the dr^r, hot kilns; and the roofs of those omnibuses look as though, if water were poured on them, they would hiss and smoke, and smell like half-quenched fires. No stint of omnibuses here ! Half a-dozen have gone by within as many minutes. Plenty of hackney cabs and coaches too; gigs, phaetons, large- wheeled tilburies, and private carriages — rather of a clumsy make, and not very different from the public vehicles, but built for the heavy roads beyond the city pavement. Negro coachmen and white; in straw hats, black hats, whifft hnfs ala»f>rl ra-nc fnt- /^o.^o. ;^ ^ — 4.^ of drab, black, brown, green, blue, nankeen, striped jean and linen; ipathising t upon its the water dock, flew o the busy American Notes 69 ean a city ,cteristics; the sign- so golden, the blinds upon the many by- iirty ones, nly called s, may be [amed St. i know, is ! Battery y be four on House !W York), iow, sally )pen win- ing-glass; Vas there itones are ed bricks s of those ley would stint of minutes. IS, large- sy make, t for the rid white; .nd linen; late) in suits of hvery. Some southern republican that, who puts his blacks in uniform, and swells with SultaS pomp and power Yondl sla'dW at tSe.:;'*^ *^' well-clipped pair oF grays^Is stop^'d-!! verv lon/in th^^^^^^^ """"^rr^'f Yorkshire groom, who has not beer nak o? ton hno?« ^I'^l' V""^ ^°^^' sorrowfully round for a companion pair of top-boots, which he may traverse the city half a year without TobSn trele^tf "' *^V"^ir ^°" ^^^^ ^'^^'^ ^e ha^rsel more colours m these ten minutes, than we should have seen -Isewhere in whatTnkT. ^^f,t.--rtP-asols! what rainbo^si^ks ^nd sa^^^^^^^^ what pmking of thm stockmgs, and pinching of thin shoes and lluttering of ribbons and silk tassels, and display of rich cloaks wi^h gaudy hoods and linings! The young gentlemen are fond you Tee of turning down their shirt-collars and cultivating thek 'wWskers' SrdtL^or'bear^nf r-'"\^'^^ ^T"^^ approlch^Te TaS?n rneir aress or bearing, being, to say the truth, humanity of auite "e whlt'^nd^nr"' 1.'^^ ^^^^ "^^ counter,'pass on Ld l?t us hohlv cloihl of K *^°'^ ^'^ ^^^^^^ y^" t^°«^ two labourers in Holiday clothes of whom one carries in his hand a crumpled scrao lt'k?aW?o7?t"on^.'ll'^^^^ 'P^" T ^ ^^^^ --^' -^"- tl- "tS looKs about tor it on all the doors and windows. theSloTtanS' lJ°" ""^l^* know them, if they were masked, by roisers wWrh fh """"^ri ^^^ ^"^^^ buttons, and their drab ^ousers. which they wear like men well used to working dresses who are easy m no others. It would be hard to keep vour model republics gomg without the countrymen and count^m^en ofThose Z^^^^"""""'; ^^'7^° ^^'^ ^^"1^ di^' ^"d delve. an^Xdge. and do ofTnt.^ Jt'^' ^"^ "^^^^ "^"^^^ ^"d ^°^ds. and execute |reat lines find o^wLfT^^f V l"'^"^"" ^°th. and sorely puzzled too, to of Lme and th.Tf -; ^ft^^ ^° ^°^"' ^^^ *^^^P ^h^em, for the love honesTmen .n^ i ^'"1* ""^ ^iK^'^^ ^^^^^ ^^"^^^s of honest service to Tha-? w;itrw r'* "^^^^ for honest bread, no matter what it be. written J I ^ ^r^ ^°* ^t the right address at last, though it is S than . ipn tI ^ ""^ *v ^ 'P^^^ t^^ ^iter better knows the use there? TtfJ; "^^ ^ ^'^' y°"^^^' ^^^ ^'"^^ business takes them there? They carry savings: to hoard up? No. They are brothers harveTand'l- '''.^ '^^ ''" "^°^^' ^"^ ^^^^^^g ^^^ hard ^r one out Thl;^ Tv? '^^'■^^'■' "^^^^ ^^"-^^ ^"0"gh to bring the other sharini'hli^^^' ^^"^7°^^/?. ^^g^*^^^^ «ide by side, contented^ 3isS.^. ^^tl ^""^ ^Y.^ ^^^^"^ ^^" ^^°th«^ t^^"^' an^ then their and vearn. ?rL ^^' k ^ P^'^'"/'^^ ^^^"^ ^^ ^^^^less in a strange land, gravS .t h^ '" ^r^'' ?^ '^y^' ^"^°"S ^^^ P^^Ple in the old God hlt^ 1, T.I- ^"^ '° they go to pay her passage back: .nd God help her and them, and every simple heart, and .11 who . „^ % comS^TS tiei^i^C^^^ '^^' ^"' '^^^ an altar:fire upon the ^ ^1 .'■ I ' 1 i l!!t ' i' 70 American Notes This narrow thoroughfare, baking and blistering in the sun, is Wall Street: the Stock Exchange and Lombard Street of New York. Many a rapid fortune has been made in this street, and many a no less rapid ruin. Some of these very merchants whom you see hanging about here now, have locked up money in their strong-boxes, like the man in the Arabian Nights, and opening them again, have found but withered leaves. Below, here by the water-side, where the bow- sprits of ships stretch across the footway, and almost thrust them- selves into the windows, lie the noble American vessels which have made their Packet Service the finest in the world. They have brought hither the foreigners who abound in all the streets: not. perhaps, that there are more here, than in other commercial" cities; but elsewhere, they have particular haunts, and you must find them out; here,' they pervade the town. We must cross Broadway again; gaining some refreshment from the heat, in the sight of the great blocks of clean ice which are being carried into shops and bar-rooms; and the pine-apples and water n--lons profusely displayed for sale. Fine streets of spacious houses here, you see!— Wall Street has furnished and dismantled many of them very often — and here a deep green leafy square. Be sure that it is a hospitable house With inmates to be affectior«ately remembered always, where they have the open door and pretty show of plants within, and where the child with laughing eyes is peeping out of window at the little dog below. You wonder what may be the use of this tall flagstaff in the by-street, with something like Liberty's head-dress on its top: so do I. But there is a passion for tall flagstaff s hereabout, and you may see its twin brother in five minutes, if you have a mind. Again across Broadway, and so — passing from the many-coloured crowd and glittering shops — into another long main street, the Bowery. A railroad yonder, see, where two stout horses trot along, drawing a score or two of people and a great wooden ark, with ease. The stores are poorer here; the passengers less gay. Clothes ready- made, and meat ready-cooked, are to be bought in these parts; and the lively whirl of carriages is exchanged for the deep rumble of carts and waggons. These signs which are so plentiful, in shape like river buoys, or small balloons, hoisted by cords to poles, and dangling there, announce, as you may see by looking up, "Oysters in every Style." They tempt the hungry most at night, for then dull candles ghmme.ing inside, illuminate these dainty words, and make the mouths of idlers water, as they read and linger. What is this dismal-fronted pile of bastard Egyptian, like an enchanter's palace in a meloaiama! — a famous prison, called The Tombs. Shall we go in? So. A long, narrow, lofty building, stove-heated as usual, with four galleries, one above the other, going round it, and communicat- ing >^y stairs. Between the two sides of each gallery, and in its centre, a bridge, for the greater convenience of crossing. On each of these bridges p?nion They 1( fires wi with dr is light dangle, A m; fellow, "Are "Yes "Are "Wei about i1 "Thoi "Whj "Whe "Wei] "Do t "Cons "Som( "Well "But ! only a pi they are affords c trials, an here iFor •'Well, "Bo y< at that li "He ra "Will ^ "All, ii The fa on its hir enters th washing, sixty; rea shake; an heads, thi has murd "How 1 "A mor "When "Nexti vv neii he sun, is STew York, nany a no ie hanging )oxes, like ave found i the bow- ust them- hich have '^e brought haps, that elsewhere, out; here, Qent from are being md water >us houses led many ! sure that nembered of plants ng out of e the use Liberty's . flagstaff s :es, if you -coloured :reet, the rot along, Arith ease, ies ready- >arts; and umble of ihape like [ dangling IN EVERY 11 candles nake the , like an illed The ual, with municat- is Centre, of these American Notes bridges sits a man: dozing or reading or falUnrr i-^ -^t ' p?nion. On each tipr ^t^ L ^L talkmg to an idle com- Are those black doors the cells?" "Yes." "Are they all full?" ab3 1" '^''^''' P''"^ "^^^ '""' ^^^ *^^^'« - ^--t' -nd no two ways ''Those at the bottom are unwholesome, surely'" Why, we do only put coloured people in 'em. That's the truth " ^ When do the prisoners take exercise?" ^ *'^"*^- Well they do without it pretty much." Do they never walk in the yard?" Considerable seldom." "Sometimes, I suppose?" ''Well, it's rare they do. They keep pretty bright without it " ^ He might walk some, perhaps— not much." Will you open one of the doors?" All, if you like." on^?s%tn1esTett'ln"? '^'t' ^^?, °"" °^ *^^ ^^^^^ ^^^ns slowly How long has he been here?" 'A month." "When will he be tried?" I'Next term." "When is that?" "Next month." fit rtf^'i f'lF ! f: ii 72 American Notes "In England, if a man be under sentence of death, even he has air and exercise at certain periods of the day." "Possible?" With what stupendous and untranslatable coolness he says this, and how loungingly he leads on to the women's side: making, as be ^oe£ a kind of iron castanet of the key and the stair-rail! Each cell door on this side has a square aperture in it. Some of the women peep anxiously through it at the sound of footsteps; others shrink away in shame. — For what offence can that lonely child, of ten or twelve years old, be shut up here? Oh! that boy? He is the son of the prisoner we saw just now; is a witness against his father; and is detained here for safe keeping, until the trial; that'^ all. But it is a dreadful place for the child to pass the long c.ays and nights in. This is rather hard treatment for a young witness, is it not? — ^What says our conductor? "Well, it an't a very rowdy life, and thaVs a fact!" Again he clinks his metal castanet, and leads us L surely away. I have a question to ask him as we go. "Pray why do they call this place The Tombs?" "Well, it's the cant name." "I know it is. Why?" "Some suicides happened here, when it was first built. I expect it come about from that." "I saw just now, that that man's clothes were scattered auout the floor of his cell. Don't you oblige the prisoners to be orderly, and put such things away? " "Where should they put 'em?" "Not on the ground surely. What do you say to hanging them up?" He stops and looks round to emphasise his answer: "Why, I say that's just it. When they had hooks they wouldhssig themselves, so they're taken out of every cell, and there's only the marks left where they used to be!" The prison-yard in which he pauses now, has been the scene of terrible performances. Into this narrow, ^grave-like place, men are brought out to die. The wretched creature stands beneath the gibbet on the ground; the rope about his neck; and when the sign is given, a weight at its other end comes running down, and swings him up into the air — a corpse. The law requires that there be present at this dismal spectacle, the judge, the jury, and citizens to the amount of twenty-five. From the community it is hidden. To the dissolute and bad, the thing remains a frightful mystery. Between the criminal and them, the p-^i son- wall is interposed as a thick gloomy veil. It is the curtain to hib bed of death, his winding-sheet, and grave. From him it shuts out IJin, and all the motives to unrepenting hardihood in that last LU sustain. There are no bold eyes to make him bold; no ruffians to American Notes Let us go forth again into the cheerful streets blue parasol which pas^d a„d reoass4/tS» Lt.? *^ '*'"*' ''«''' times while we were^sitting tht^ ^Hfe glg1:';ro:' hire "xaS an? a sfkc^'^a^" ?r',^ ^T ""^ *™*«"S upUi"d tWs''S„lg'^'= ?u^ed ttcofnen'^ half-a-doeen gentlemeu hogs have just n^ Here is a solitary swine lounging homeward bv himwif H. l,,. . St;;3Ktrg:?s^r-VeidS^"^^^ ihiro^f orrbi'^^n aTsr^tael' t rS^^^^^^^^ at a certain hour, throw.Tn,s"^f '^^^the ttTferSo^^hif day m some manner quite satisfactory to himself and .^i^ . appears at the door of his own house again at nirtT lit. ft "f"''?'''^ master of Gil Bias He is •> frer3 .!t? t ? ' '•*!.*''^ mysterious pg. having a verylaryacqu:i:Ll.rjm:ng o^^^^^^^^^ °' character, whom he rather know«! hv =t,iV It ^^ *^® ^^"^^ seldom troubles himsdf Wop'a/dTxchanS cSiS^Tv"' ''^ ?r!;rf&*^ l^-'-V^J; *"™'"S «P thetwILTsmr't^fof'SI buTh£ o^ :t?i ht^ve^nitltrfort?'- ST"* ""^""^ ^ *^"' h.ve been at that too^7IU^:Zn'^d°iXtrZ^^ ^t^Z ^^Vmi;|^7^rtt^St"^X^t^^^^^^^^ »e Sm-h7w-tTft pXr&elsiSS"^^ F^" ^» ^or.TeiTis'^d-Xi-iSli^^^ Whose carcase garnishes a butcher's drroost W h^ 1"^"^' "Such is hfe: all flesh is porkl'' bSs hi nose ,V. fh.\. ^''"*' °"* They are the city scavengers, these pigs. Ugly brutes th^v ar«. having, for the most part, scanty brown Lckslil.^fi;!r!i ^.?j horsehair trunks: spotted'with u';iwhoTesomf &^^^^ 1^'^ have long gaunt legs, too, and such peaked snoutf that ? one 'V +h could be persuaded to sit for his profile, nobody w^juldreco^isi I ^ a pig's likeness. They are never attended utS^ or Th^^^ ^^ '* ^°^ caught, but are thrown upon their own Xu^ces n ;ariv^ir' °^' become preternaturally knowing in consequence Fv^^t^ 5^- u^ ^""^ where he lives, much letter thL anyTdrcouM l^r^.^^^A^.^? bed hv^'iof ^''''T^ is closing in, you will see them roam'ing towards bed by^scores, eatmg their way to the last. Occasionally, some ye^ ua 74 American Notes Wf 1 1: among them who has over-eaten himself, or has been worried by dogs, trots shrinkingly homeward, like a prodigal son: but this is a rare case: perfect self-possession and self-reliance, and immovable com- posure, being their foremost attributes. The streets and shops are lighted now; and as the eye travels down the long thoroughfare, dotted with bright jets of gas, it is reminded of Oxford Street, or Piccadilly. Here and there a flight of broad stone cellar-steps appears, and a painted lamp directs you to the Bowling Saloon, or Ten-Pin alley; Ten-Pins being a game of mingled chance and skill, invented when the legislature passed an act forbidding Nine-Pins. At other downward flight of steps, are other lamps, marking the whereabouts of oyster-cellars — pleasant retreats, say I: not only by reason of their wonderful cookery of oysters, pretty nigh as large as cheese-plates (or for thy dear sake, heartiest of Greek Professors !) , but because of all kinds of eaters of fish, or flesh, or fowl, in these latitudes, the swallowers of oysters alone are not gregarious; but subduing thvimselves, as it were, to the nature of what they work in, and copying the coyness of the thing they eat, do sit apart in curtained boxes, and consort by twos, not by two hun- dreds. But how quiet the streets are! Are there not itinerant bands; no wind or stringed instruments? No, not one. By day, are there no Punches, Fantoccini, Dancing-dogs, Jugglers, Conjurers, Orches- trinas, or even Barrel-organs? No, not one. Yes, I remember one. One barrel-organ and a dancing-monkey — sportive by nature, but fast fading into a dull, lumpish monkey, of the Utilitarian school, Beyond that, nothing lively; no, not so much as a white mouse in a twirling cage. Are there no amusements? Yes. There is a lecture-room across the way, from v/hich that glare of light proceeds, and there may be evening service for the ladies thrice a week, or oftener. For the young gentlemen, there is the counting-house, the store, the bar-ioom: the latter, as you may see through these windows, pretty full. Hark! to the clinking sound of hammers breaking lumps of ice, and to the cool gurgling of the pounded bits, as, in the process of mixing, they are poured from glass to glass! No amusements? What are these suckers of cigars and swallowers of strong drinks, whose hats and legs we see in every possible variety of twist, doing, but amusing themselves? What are the fifty newspapers, which those precocious urchins are bawling down the street, and which are kept filed within, what are they but amusements? Not vapid, waterish amusements, but good strong stuff; dealing in round abuse and blackguard names; pulling off the roofs of private houses, as the Halting Devil did in Spain; pimping and pandering for all degrees of vicious taste, and gorging with coined lies the most voracious maw; imputing to every man in public life the coarsest and the vilest motives; scaring away from the stabbed and prostrate body-politic, every Samaritan of clear conscience and good deeds; and setting on, with yell and American Notes 75 whistle and the clapping of foul hands, the vilest vermin and worst birds of prey. — No amusements! Let us go on again; and passing this wilderness of an hotel with stores about its base, like some Continental theatre, or the London Opera House shorn of its colonnade, plunge into the Five Points But It IS needful, first, that we take as our escort these two heads of the police, whom you would know for sharp and well-trained officers If you met them in the Great Desert. So true it is. that certain pursuits, wherever carried on, will stamp men with the same character. These two might have been begotten, born, and bred in Bow btreet. We have seen no beggars in the streets by night or day; but of other kinds of strollers, plenty. Poverty, wretchedness, and vice are rife enough where we are going now. This is the place: these narrow ways, diverging to the right and left, and reekmg every^vhere with dirt and filth. Such lives as are led here bear the same fruits here as elsewhere. The coarse and bloated faces at the doors, have counterparts at home, and all the wide world over Debauchery has made the very houses prematurely old. See how the rotten beams are tumbling down, and how the patched and broken windows seem to scowl dimly, like eyes that have been hurt in drunken frays. Many of those pigs live here. Do they ever wonder why their masters walk upright in lieu of going on all-fours? and why they talk instead of grunting? So far. nearly every house is a low tavern; and on the bar-room walls, are coloured prints of Washington, and Queen Victoria of fu^uli' ^""^ the American Eagle. Among the pigeon-holes that hold the bottles, are pieces of plate-glass and coloured paper, for there is m some sort, a taste for decoration, even here And as seamen irequent these haunts, there are maritime pictures by the dozen- of ^f^K^^K ^etween sailors and their lady-loves, portraits of William of the ballad and his Black-Eyed Susan; of Will Watch, the Bo?d Smuggler; of Paul Jones the Pirate, and the like: on which the painted eyes of Queen Victoria, and of Washington to boot, rest in as strange companionship, as on most of the scenes that are enacted in their wondering presence. What place is this, to which the squalid street conducts us? A kind of square of leprous houses, some of which are attainable onlv bv crazy wooden stairs without. What lies beyond this tottering flight of steps that creak beneath our tread?-a miserable room, lighted by one dim candle, and destitute of all comfort, save that which mav knees: his forehead hidden m his hands. "What ails that man?'' asks I Ton "''T^'* ?'^'''' T"T'" ^' ^""^^^y ^^Pli^«' without looking S Conceive the fancies of a feverish brain in such a place as this' ^' wm" ?^^^Pitc^-dark stairs, heedful of a false footing on the tremui.ng L,oarus, anu grope your way with me into this wolfish den where neither ray of light nor breath of air, appears to come A m r i>i 76 American Notes negro lad, startled from his sleep by the officer's voice — he knows it well — but comforted by his assurance that he has not come on business, officiously bestirs himself to light a candle. The match flickers for a moment, and shows great mounds of dusty rags upon the ground; then dies away and leaves a denser darkness than before, if there can be degrees in such extremes. He stumbles down the stairs and presently comes back, shading a flaring taper with his hand. Then the mounds of rags are seen to be astir, and rise slowly up, and the floor is covered with heaps of negro women, waking from their sleep: their white teeth chattering, and their bright eyes glistening and winking on all sides with surprise and fear, like the countless repetition of one astonished African face in some strange mirror. Mount up these other stairs with no less caution (there are traps, and pitfalls here, for those who are not so well escorted as ourselves) into the housetop; where the bare beams and rafters meet overhead, and calm night looks down through the crevices in the roof. Open the door of one of these cramped hutches full of sleeping negroes. Pah ! They have a charcoal fire within; there is a smell of singeing clothes, or flesh, so close they gather round the brazier; and vapours issue forth that blind and suffocate. From every corner, as you glance about you in these dark retreats, some figure crawls half-awakened, as if the judgment-hour were near at hand, and every obscene grave were giving up its dead. Where dogs would howl to lie, women, and men, and boys slink off to sleep, forcing the dislodged rats to move away in quest of better lodgings. Here too are lanes and alleys, paved with mud knee-deep, under- ground chambers, where they dance and game; the walls bedecked with rough designs of ships, and forts, and flags, and American eagles out of number: ruined houses, open to the street, whence, through wide gaps in the walls, other ruins loom upon the eye, as though the world of vice and misery had nothing else to show; hideous tenements which take their name from robbery and murder; all that is loathsome, drooping, and decayed is here. Our leader has his hand upon the latch of "Almack's." and calls to us from the bottom of the steps; for the assembly-rc ti of the Five Point fashionables is approached by a descent. Shall we go in.' It is but a moment. Heyday! the landlady of Almack's thrives! A buxom fat mulatto woman, with sparkling eyes, whose head is daintily ornamented with a handkerchief of many colours. Nor is the landlord much behind her in his finery, being attired in a smart blue jacket, like a ship's steward, with a thick gold ring upon his little finger, and round his neck a gleaming golden watch-guard. How glad he is to see us ! What will we please to call for? A dance? It shall be done directly, sir; "a regular break-down." The corpulent black fiddler, and his friend who plays the tambourine, sed orchestra in which they 4-1. - ^£ J.-U^ _. 11 American Notes *jm sit. and play a lively measure. Five or six couple come uoon the flnnr marshaUed by a lively young negro, who is tL^t of tKsemSl' and the greatest dancer known. He never lPa^/,«« ^« r^li . ^^"^^'y- faces, and is the delight of all thTresTwlTo ^r ntort"r^r^^^^^^ incessantly Among the dancers are two younf mulX gfrls with arge, black, droopmg eyes, and head-gear aftir th^fashfon ^f th^ hostess, who are as shy, or feign to be. L though tLy never da^^^^^^ st^Sh1ng\^r .^ong^^^^^^^ -- ^^^ ^^-^^^ ong about It that the sport beginsTlangu^sl whe^^uddenlv th^ lively hero dashes in to the rescue. Instantly the fiddler grlns^ and goes at It tooth and nail; there is new energy in the tambourW- T laughter m the dancers; new smiles in theYaidlady n^t con^^^^^^^ in the landlord; new brightness in the very candles Sin aufK^ double shuffle, cut and cro'ss-cut; snapping hfs fmge s roS'h s e^vt ' turning m his knees, presenting the backs of his iL inTront SDinTn^ fh.'^Sn.to^'' *°f ^"^ *^".^^^ "^^ ^«*hi"g but the mar?s finSrs on the tambourme; dancmg with two left legs, two right legs two wooden lf;,Z\w""t ^^^^S^riP""^ ^^^^-^11 ««^ts of legfand noTegs- what IS this to him? And in what walk of life, or dince of Hfe dnTI man ever get such stimulating applause as thundere abm t' hfr^ when, having danced his partner off her feet, and h^mse^rtoo he finishes by leaping gloriously on the bar-counter and call w' }Z somethmg to drink, with the chuckle of a mmion of counterfe^S m Crows, in one mimitable sound! ^"""xerieit jim atmosphe^e^rf^if.^h"'^ distempered parts, is fresh after the stifling atmosphere of the houses; and now. as we emerge into a br >adf.r What! do you thrust your common offenders against tho t,„t,,.. discplme of the town, into such holes as thesef Do Srand women su^'oTn Jed rrhaTo" ^'''^'^' "^ """'^ *" ""S"^' » ^rfec?dSe™; surrounded by the noisome vapours which encircle that flavin,; ten^hrwh'^''* f •""''• ^°<1 breathing this fi'?hy and oSi vf stench! Why such mdecent and disgusting dangeons as these c^N. Lo"hfm S'" "^^ '^' ""* ^^'^"^ ^^^"^ *^ "™'^^' LOOK at them, man— you, who see them every night and keen th^ be^w^h ''^ T ""■".* *'y *^«? '°° y°^ know-how dktas are madi betrata^rst^gnrntp"*''^^^ '"^^ '"'■"^'' — ^^-- '-?' ^ locted''„!if f''°?h* ^°^- "^ "^^ ^'^ five-and-twenty young women It 1,a?H^V'2 ™7.5!'.^*- °- *™«. ^'nd you'd hardl^ reaTs^ T^ n"l\ — ' r""^ "^ciu wcic among 'em. In God s name I shut the door upon the wretched creature who is 78 American Notes m It now, and put its screen before a place, quite unsurpassed in all the vice, neglect, and devilry, of the worst old town in Europe. Are people really left all night, untried, in those black sties> -Ev jry night. The watch is set at seven in the evening. The magi - .te o'jcns his court at ^ve in the morning. That is the earliest horr ;t wii oh the first prisoner can be released; and if an officer appear ags . . m he IS not taken out till nine o'clock or ten.— But if any one an. them die m the interval, as one man did, not long ago? Then he .^ half- eaten by the rats in an hour's time; as that man wiiS- '-1 there an end. What is this intolerable tolling of great bells, and crashing of wheels, and shouting in the distance? A fire. And what that deep red light m the opposite direction? Another fire. And what these charred And blackened walls we stand before? A dwelling where a fire has been. It was more than hinted, in an official report, not long ago that some of these conflagrations were not wholly accidental, and' tfcat speculation and enterprise found a field of exertion, even in flames but be this as it may, there was a fire last night, there are two to- night, and you may lay an even wager there will be at least one to-morrow. So, carrying that with us for our comfort, let us sav' Good night, and climb up-stairs to bed. ' One day, during my stay in New York, I paid a visit to the different public institutions on Long Island, or Rhode Island- I forget which One of them is a Lunatic Asylum. The building is handsome; and is remarkable foi- a spacious and elegant staircase. The whole structure is not yet finished, but it is already one of considerable size and extent, and is capable of accommodating a very large number of I cannot say that I derived much comfort from the inspection of this charity. The different wards might have been cleaner and better ordered; I saw nothing of that salutary system which had impressed me so favourably elsewhere; and everything had a lounging, listless madhouse air. which was very painful. The moping idiot, cowering down with long dishevelled hair; the gibbering maniac, with his hideous laugh and pointed finger; the vacant eye, the fierce wild face the gloomy picking of the hands and lips, and munching of the nails there they were all, without disguise, in naked ugliness and horror In the dinmg-room a bare, dull, dreary place, with nothing for the eye to rest on but the empty walls, a woman was locked up alone. She was bent, they told me. on committing suicide. If anything could have strengthened her in her resolution, it would certainly have been the insupportable monotony of such an existence The terrible crowd with which these halls and galleries were filled so shocked me. that I abridged my stay within the shortest limits' and declined to see that portion of the building in which the re- tractory and violent were under closer restraint I ha^/o n^ 'i—b^ that tne gentleman who presided over this establishment at the time American Notes yg I write of, was competent to manage it. and had done ail in hia power to promote its usefulness: but will it be Meved tLT .k! oTffflft V'"?H°' ''^rju'^^^'"^ ^^ ^-"-d even into Js sad Xe w4h are t'o watcTn'"' humanity? Will it be believed that Vhe lyS wmcn are to watch over and control the wanderings of minds on u^ich the most dreadful visitat^m to which our nature is exposeS Wi Vh be beHevrtha't%t"" "' --« -etched sicIe'i'pXics? It De Deiieved that the governor of such a house ai thU i. K'2^''' h"*^ '^•'P°'""^' '">'' "^h^-^gcd perpetaally a^ Parties thTs way or thS^'A^h" ^ '!lf despic'able'^eWrc.^ks Le Wow^ I never turned my back upon it with feelings of such d^o dk^n!; ,nH measureless contempt, as when I crossed tUthreshofd'oUh^i^lrd' Ho1,se^ ?Saf iftn*"'^ ^IS'" ^'f ''""'"8 '^ *"°ther called the Alms rn:tStfon'afso:°lSrging^ TStT whe'l'^T ^'"\^*"' '^ ' '"^e thousand poor.. It wa! "bld.y vlSieXt^d bad?^ UghSd'^I^L? good and eviftsrnrrm1xed\'n1rumb,iZprget\:r^^ =""°""' °' nu[L?LXed"fdiZrstit*ttY'S^H^°"°«°'^^ and I can the more easUv L^dii if ? 'f '"'"^ '* '' ™" conducted; usually are.1n AmerSi of that L',.??"? '"°^'"? ''°"' ""■"^'"' ^W rememUaU l^Crrnlanl yZg c^WreT '" *^ "^''"^ ^'^''^ the' MLT^:il'i:^ro::rtT:^Jyj:Z'' *" ^^ ^oat be.ongi„g to itpLessS/a-n^^tjrSg^-lSf^^^^^^^^^^^ ;eLtb-^Tht^ttr:rSo?st'tS:^ iS^k- " ' hanri TKo^o K • ^^I'uur m certam stone-q Jiand. The day bemg very wet indeed, this labour w Jc„o^.„^„. __ , "ic prisoners were in their cpll<? Tmao^ir,^ ^Tu'"" ■—■^"^t"-'-^^^^. and three hundred in n„mber:i;Ste4^Ca*t;SedTprtiron°I ?il 1 II So American Notes ., iF at his door for air, with his hands thrust through the grate; this one in bed (in the middle of the day, remember); and this one flung down in a heap upon the ground, with his head against the bars, like a wild beast. Make the rain pour down, outside, in torrents. Put the ever- lasting stove in the niidst; hot, and suffocating, and vaporous, as a witch's cauldron. Add a collection of gentle odours, such as would arise from a thousand mildewed umbrellas, wet through, and a thousand buck-baskets, full of half-washed linen— and there is the prison, as it was that day. The prison for the State at Sing Sing, is, on the other hand, a model jail. That, and Aubuia, are, I believe, the largest and best examples of the silent system. In another part of the city, is the Refuge for the Destitute: an Institution whose object is to reclaim youthful offenders, male and female, black and white, wit'iout distinction; to teach them useful trades, apprentice them tc respectable masters, and make them worthy members of society. Its design, it will be seen, is similar to that at Boston; and it is a no less meritorious and admirable estab- lishment. A suspicion crossed my mind during my inspection of this noble charity, whether the superintendent had quite sufficient know- ledge of the world and worldly characters; and whether he did not commit a great mistake in treating some young girls, who were to all intents and purposes, by their years and their past lives, women, as though they were little children; which certainly had a ludicrous effect in my eyes, and, or I am much mistaken, in theirs also. As the Institution, however, is always under a vigilant examination of a body of gentlemen of great intelligence and experience, it cannot fail to be well conducted; and whether I am right or wrong in this slight particular, is unimportant to its deserts and character, which it would be difficult to estimate too higaly. In addition to these establishments, there are in New York, excellent hospitals and schools, literary institutions and libraries; an admirable fire department (as indeed it should be, having constant practice), and charities of every sort and kind. In the suburbs there is a spacious cemetery: unfinished yet, but every day improvmg. The saddest tomb I saw there was "The Strangers' Grave. Dedicated to the different hotels in this city." There are three principal theatres. Two of them, the Park and the Bowery, are large, elegant, and handsome buildings, and are, I grieve to write it, generally deserted. The third, the Olympic, is a tiny show- box for vaudevilles and burlesques. It is singularly well conducted by Mr. Mitchell, a comic actor of great quiet humour and originality, who is well remembered and esteemed by London playgoers. I am happy to report of this deserving gentleman, that his benches are usually well filled, and that his theatre rings with merriment every night. I had almost forgotten a small summer theatre, called Niblo's, with gardens and open air amusements attached: but I believe it is not exempt from the general depression under vvhich Theatrical American Notes 8i StXre^' °' ^^*^* " humorousJ.y called by that name, unfortunately The country round New York is surpassingly and exquisitely SlhrwlTrnS'ww'^' ^' ^5^r ^^"^^y intimated, is somewhat of the warmest What it would be. without the sea breezes which come from its beautiful Bay in the evening time, I will not throw myself or my readers into a fever by inquiring. The toae of the best society in this city, is like that of Boston- here and there, it nay be. with a greater infusion of the mercantile spirit, but generally polished and refined, and always most nospitable. The houses and tables are elegant; the hours later and more rakish- and there is. perhaps, a greater spirit of contention in reference to appearances, and the display of wealth ar i costly living The ladies are singularly beautiful. J & '=> ictuicj, hn^^lZ\lAr ^^"^ w "■ u ^ ''f "^^ arrangements for securing a passage home in th^ George Washington packet ship, which was advertised to sail m June: that being the month in which I had determined if America '''' accident in the course of my ramblings, to leive I never thought that going back to England, returning to all who are dear to me. and to pursuits that have insensibly grSwn to be a part of my nature, I could have felt so much sorrow as I endured when I parted at last, on board this ship, with the friends who had accompanied me from this city. I never thought the name of anv place, so far away and so lately known, could ever associate itself in my mmd with the crowd of affectionate remembrances that now cluster about it. There are those in this city who would brighten to me, the darkest wmter-day that ever glimmered and went out in Lapland; and before whoL3 presence even Home grew dim. when they and I exchanged that painful word wnich mingles with our everv thought ajid deed; which haunts our cradle-heads in infancy, and closes up the vista of oui lives in age. 1^ 1 CHAPTER VIl m PHILADELPHIA. AND ITS SOLITARY PRISOr The journey from New York to Philadelphia, is made by railroad and two femes; and usually occupies between five and six hours It was a fine evening when we were passengers in the train: and watch- ing the bngLc sunset from a little window near the door by which we sat. my attention was attracted to a remarkable appearance issuing from the windows of the gentleman s car immediately in front of us which I siinnospr! fnr cnme. +iwyc. ,.ra« : j »_■' . ' mdustrjous persons mside. rippmg open feather beds, and giving the .* ''% 82 American Notes feathers to the wind. At length it occurred to me that they were onlv spitting, which was indeed the case; though how any number of passengers which it was possible for that car to contain, could have maintained such a playful and incessant shower of expectoration I am still at a loss to understand: notwithstanding the experience 'in all sahvatory phenomena which I afterwards acquired I made acquaintance, on this journey, with a mild and modest young quaker. who opened the discourse by informing me, in a grave whisper, that his grandfather was the inventor of cold-drawn castor oil I mention the circumstance here, thinking it probable that this is the first occasion on which the valuable medicine in question was ever used as a conversational aperient. We reached the city, late that night. Looking out of my chamber- window, before gomg to bed, I saw, on the opposite side of the wav a handsome building of white marble, which had a mournful ghost- like aspect, dreary to behold. I attributed this to the sombre inilu- ence of the night, and on rising in the morning looked out again expecting to see its steps and portico thronged with groups of people passing m and out. The door was still tight shut, however; the^same cold cheerless air prevailed; and the building looked as if the marble statue of Don Guzman could alone have any business to transact within its gloomy walls. I hastened to inquire its name and purpose and tht-n my surprise vanished. It was the tomb of many fortunes' toe^Great Catacomb of investment; the Memorable United States The stoppage of this Bank, with all its ruinous consequences had cast (as I was told on every side) a gloom on Philadelphia, under the depressing effect of which it yet laboured. It certainly did seem rather dull and out of spirits. .y ^ ^ seem .u^i\% handsome city, but distractingly regular. After walking about it for an hour or two. I felt that I would have given the world for a crooked street. The collar of my coat kppeared to stiffen and h.t /v!"" I ""^ hat to expand, beneath its quakery influence. My hair shrunk in a sleek short crop, my hands folded themselve upon my breast of their own calm accord, and thoughts of taking lodgings m Mark Lane over against the Market Pla^.e. and of m^Ving a large tortune by speculations in corn, came over me involunta i Philadelphia IS most bountifully provided wit) .freshw^ic- which is showered and jerked about, and turned on, and r. ured off eveiv- where. The Waterworks, which are on a height iv.ar the citv are?o '.ess ornamental than useful, being tastefully laid r t a«« a oublic garden, and kept in the best and neatest ord.^r. Th nver is dammed at this point and forced by its ov;n power into certain bif h tanks or re.«;ervoirs. whence the whole city, to the top stories o. the houses is supplied at a very trifling expense. ""ubcb, is I'here are various public institutions. Among thera - mo ,t excellent Hospital-a quaker establishment, but not sectarian in thf great -enexxts u couxcrs; a quiet, quaint old library, named atier Frc^nklin- American Notes 83 a handsome Exchange and Post Office; and so forth. In connection w th the quaker Hospital, there Is a picture by West, which is exh^ b ted for the benefit of the funds of the institiition. Th^Iubleci is our f f r"i. 'f^'"'^ *^^ 'If^' ^^^ '^ ''' P^^h^Ps. as favourable a spedmen of the master as can be seen anywhere. Whether this be hi^h nr^ praise, depends upon the reader's taste. ^"'^'^ ^^'^ ^^ ^'^^ ^^ ^ow In the same room, there is a very charar+^ristir anH Uf^ n portrait of Mr. Sully, a distinguished AmerSn'artf^^^^ ^"^ ^'^'-^'^' My stay m Philadelphia was very short but what I ..w .f •. T'^K' r'^'V'^'''' Treating S its g^nerll char^^^ taste and criticism, savouring ratL of thoi^c;on?.t^^ upon the same themes, in conSctLn t^h ShfSsS^^^^^^^ Musical Glasses, of which we read in the Vic^r of Wak?fi^' Near h^ CntZ ^'^'''^ f k"^^^ unfinished marble structure' ? the G^a^d College, founded by a deceased gertleman of that name and 0I enormous wealth, which, if comoL-ted arr .rHincr +^ ^vT ■■ t design will be perhaps the ricS^idifice"oTmode?„ dmes' Buft"h bequest IS involved in legal disputes, and pending thSi the work has stopped; so that like many other great undertakin"^^^ A^ • 'T '^' '' I^*"^' 8°'"8 to be done one^f these Xs than dotnTnow ^"s^:^ ^ s?t:r.::i?nrr:r "^ -^^- In its intention. I am well convinced that it is kind humane anrl' meant for retormation; but I am persuaded that those X demised whn 'r*'"^.°^^"'"^ Discipline, .n.l those benevolenrgLtiemen who carry it into execv,,tion. do not know what it is that thev are domg. I believe that very few men are capable of estimating th.^ immense amount of torture and agony whic^h this dreiruf punish! ment. prolonged for year., inflicts upon the sufferers; and in guessTne at It myself, ard in reasoning Lorn v.hat I have seen wri?tf n uDon their faces, and what to my ce.tn^ln knowledge they ^eel w thl^ I^am on y the more convinced th.f there is a depth of iexribllenduranS in It which none bu. the sm . .jrs themselves can fathom and whth no man has a right t. ir.lict upon his fellow-cxeature I hoM t^^^ slow and daily tamperiag with the mysteries of the brain f o be im measurably worse than any (orture of the body and because Ss ghastly sigr. .nd tokens are not so palpable to the eye and sense of touch as scars upon the flesh; because its wounds are not nno^ f i?l sumce. and it extorts few cries that human ears can hear thTefor: I the more denounce 1- as a secret punishment which slumberW h... amty iH not re a ^p to stay. I hesitated once. debaW S myself, whether, u • had the power of saying "Yes" or ''No - T ., , ,..io-. ir ^o t>.- r leu 111 jcrtain cases, where the tprm<! r,f ;«, .nsonment were sh. but now. I solemnly decUe ZTjbZ K,v\ ^^'ii-*'' ■ mm-.^^sAi m Pill. 84 American Notes rewards or honours could I walk a happy man beneath the open skv by day. or he me down upon my bed at night, with the consciousness that one human creature, for any length of time, no matter what, lay sutfermg this unknown punishment in his silent cell, and I the cause or I consentmg to it in the least degree. I was accompanied to this prison by two gentlemen officially connected with its management, and passed the day in going from cell to cell and talking with the inmates. Every facility was afforded me, that the utmost courtesy could suggest. Nothing was concealed or hidden from my view, and every piece of information that I sought, was openly and frankly given. The perfect order of the build- ing cannot be praised too highly, and of the excellent motives of all who are immediately concerned in the administration of the system there can be no kind of question. ^ ' Between the body of the prison and the outer wall, there is a spacious garden. Entering it. by a wicket in the massive gate we pursued the path before us to its other termination, and passed 'into a large chamber, from which seven long passages radiate. On either side of each is a long, long row of low cell doors, with a certain number over every one. Above, a gallery of cells, like those below, except that they have no narrow yard attached (as those in the ground tier have), and are somewhat smaller. The possession of two of these IS supposec to compensate for the absence of so much air and exercise as can be had m the dull strip attached to each of the others in an hour s time every da- d therefore every prisoner in this upper story has two cells, a^ ig and communicating with, each other btandmg at the c point, and looking down these dreary passages, the dull repose ^nd quiet that prevails, is awful. Occasion- ally, there is a drowsy sound from some lone weaver's shuttle or shoemaker's last, but it is stifled by the thick walls and heivy dungeon-door, and only serves to make the general stillness more profound. Over the head and face of every prisoner who comes into this melancholy house, a black hood is drawn; and in this dark shroud, an emblem of the curtain dropped between him and the livine: world he is led to the cell from which he aever again comes forth until his whole term of imprisonment has expired. He never hears of wife and children; home or friends; the life or death of any single creature. He sees the prison officers, but with that exception he never looks upon a human countenance, or hears a human vo^re He is a man buried alive; to be dug out in the slow round of 3 ea- ■ and in the dlT air'""^ *° everything but torturing anxieties and horrible His name, and crime, and term of suffering, are unknown even to the officer who delivers him his daily food. There is a nuX'r over his ceh -door, and in a book of which the governor of the prison has sZ^^^^""^ ^^1'^'''^' instructor another: this is the index of Ms and^-„^"/?"?.^^l^" P^?^^*h^ P'^''^ 1^^'^ no record of his existence ana .x^v^ugx. i^c iive to vc m tne same cell ten weary years, he has no American Notes 85 means of knowing, down to the very last hour, in what part of the building It IS situated; what kind of men there ai about him whethe? m the long winter nights there are living peoole near or ir^Tn ! lonely corner of the great jail, with wXSd passages "^^^ doors bel^een him and the nearest sharer in its solita^ Srrors Every cell has doub e doors: the outer one of sturdy^akX other hL^ed He h'L'.^''5T," '^T '^^ *^^P ^^^-"g^ wh'lch his food is handed. He has a Bible, and a slate and pencil, and under certain restrictions has sometimes other books, provided foV the puSose and pen and ink and paper. His razor, plate"^ and can, Sid bas^Han^ upon the wall, or shine upon the little shelf Fresh water i^laH r^"^ every cell and he can dl^aw it at his pleasure Du'wth^^^^^ bedstead turns up against the wall, and leaves more smce for hLfo work m. His loom, or bench, or wheel, ^s there; ?nd there h^Lb^^^ sle^eps and wakes, and counts the seasons as they chan":, and grows The first man I saw. was seated at his loom, at work He had been He stopped his work when we went in, took off his spectacles nnA ansvered freely to everything that was said to him. but alwa^^^^ a pap^harof M??'' ^^-""^ '" " ^°-' thoughtfurvoice He r^ a paper hat of his own making, and was pleased to have it noticed D^ln^'w"^- ^" ^^^.^"^ ingeniously manufactured a sort 0I £)ttte served for'thr' ^ I'^^^lf^.^dds and ends; and his vinegar- Dottie served for the pendulum. Seeing me interested in this cotSt-,- vance. Le looked up at it with a great deal of prSe and said that he and .r.,''''"^'"^^^ improving it. and that he hiped the har^Ler lont '' He had'? f ^'°J'^ ^'^'' ""'''^^ '' "^°"ld P^^y music bXe v^rt ^ / extracted some colours from the yarn with which he worked, and painted a few poor figures on the waH Ore of rfemale over the door, he called. "The Lady of the Lake." ' ^^^^' fiW^K^^ V ^%} ^?''^^^ ^* ^^^^^ contrivances to while away the time; but when I looked from them to him I saw that hisin f^.mKi^-? and could have counted the beating of ihirWrt T forL/h 5 came about, but some allusion was^made to hrhavinrf ^il'^He ^rhandf'^' "' *'' "^^'' *™^^ ^''^^' -d covere7L%:c" "But you are resigned now!" said one of the eentlempn afw o short pause, during which he had resumed h^fofmer manner He answered with a sigh that seemed quite reckless in Ttsh^pelessne^^^ th^nk?'''.Werf ■' ^ '^fP'^ '^ ''■" "A"" ^^- ^ better man ^ou pr tt^ quS^" T^-?'"' '"'? ' ^°P^ ' "^^y ^''" "And time g^oes walls!"^ ^ "^^"^ ^°"^' gentlemen, within these four He gazed about him— Heaven only knows how wearily!— as he 86 American Notes IP I' tii^ w w illlll said these words; and in the act of doing so, fell into a strange stare as if he had forgotten something. A moment afterwards he sighed heavily, put on his spectacles, and went about his work again. In another cell, there was a German, sentenced to five years imprisonment for larceny, two of which had just expired. With colours procured in the same manner, he had painted every inch of the walls and ceiling quite beautifully. He had laid out the few feet of ground, behind, with exquisite neatness, and had made a little bed in the centre, that looked by-the-bye, like a grave. The taste and ingenuity he had displayed in everything were most extraordinary; and yet a more dejected, heart-broken, wretched creature, it would be difficult to imagine. I never saw such a picture of forlorn affliction and distress of mind. My heart bled for him; and when the tears ran down his cheeks, and he took one of the visitors aside, to ask, with his trembling hands nervously clutching at his coat to detain him, whether there was no hope of his dismal sentence being commuted; the spectacle was really too painful to witness. I never saw or heard of any kind of misery that impressed me more than the wretchedness of this man. In a third cell, was a tall, strong black, a burglar, working at his proper trade of making screws and the like. His time was nearly out. He was not only a very dexterous thief, but was notorious for his boldness and hardihood, and for the number of his previous con- victions. He entertained us with a long account of his achievements, which he narrated with such infinite relish, that he actually seemed to lick his lips as he told us racy anecdotes of stolen plate, and of old ladies whom he had watched as they sat at windows in silver spect- acles (he had plainly had an eye to their metal even from the other side of the street) and had afterwards robbed. This fellow, upon {he slightest encouragement, would have mingled with his professional recollections the most detestable cant; but I am very much mistaken if he could have surpassed the unmitigated hypocrisy with which he declared that he blessed the day on which he came into that prison, and that he never would commit another ro])bery as long as he lived! There was one man who was allowed, as an indulgence, to keep rabbits. His room having rather a close smell in consequence, they called to him at the door to come out into the passage. He com- plied of course, and stood shading his haggard face in the unwonted sunlight of the great window, looking as wan and unearthly as if he had been summoned from the grave. He had a white rabbit in his jreast; and when the little creature, getting down upon the ground, ! tole back into the cell, and he, being dismissed, crept timidly after it, I thought it would have been very hard to say in what respect the man was the nobler animal of the two. There was an English thief who had been there but a few days out of seven years: a villainous, low-browed, thin-lipped fellow, with a white face; who had as yet no relish for visitors, and who, but for the additional npnalfv WrtuM ha\7« orlarlUr o+-oV»l-io/4 »r»" ti.-**^ *--'- -1 American Notes 87 maker s knife. There was another German who had entered the iail but yesterday, and who started from his bed when we looked in ind pleaded, m his broken English, very hard for work. There was a Doet who after doing two days' work in everv fn„rVtJ JV V ^ ^ ^' for himself anione for'the pdson. l^oTe ve^r'eT^^^^^^^^ by trade a mariner), and "the maddening wine-cup '' and his frtn^! at horne. There were very many of them.^Some red^deneda^ the sight of visitors, and some turned very pale. Some two or three h«H prisoner nurses with them, for they were very sick and nn^ J f!f 1^ negro whose leg had been take/ olwS the iaU h!dW ^n:^^:^ti^^ ^"' .If acconlpirshld^r^^^^^^^^^ fvXwafrp Stty^^^^^^ -- slight criminals in Philadelphia thenP'-^saii I "veshnf"^? ^T ^^.^-^^ children." Noble aristocracy in crime i ' ^* ""^^ ^°' ^^^*" There was a sailor who had been there upwards of eleven vears and who in a few months' time would be free. E even veJrs of solidary confinement! -cieven years ot . I ^'^.Z'''^ S^rl"^ ^'^ ^^^"^ y°"^ t^"^e is nearly out." What does h^ say? Nothing Why does he stare at his hands, and pick the flesh unon his hngers. and raise his eyes for an instant, every now and then^ to harslm^rimef "'^^' '^^' ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ grey? uTsV.X' h^ Does he never look men in the facp anri «^r.oc v,^ ^1 1 , Srfor :eerv?h°S; "i'^'"^' ^ ^'"^ '""« -SoXtt ts' os °a°U broken mIn^lr,S^H„V '"l'"V»°"^. *» be a helpless, crushed, and th^rougSyVatifik?"™" "' '" """^" *''^' "^ h- his humour There were three young women in adjoining cells all convicted at the same time of a conspiracy to rob theil DrosecnMr In t^ recollect; whose snow-white room was hu„g\?th the w^rk of 's^e former prisoner, and upon whose downcast fa-e the ^?n i„ ^^ splendour shone down through the hSh rWnVfrth. u '? ^" "' narrow strip of bright blue sk'y was%'Sble "he vaf ver^^nte'n? :n"d rnd^at^lTcT.^^n'rwrd^''' *^ ->J,<-'^ I beli:S?raad"h:,"^ uiiuu at peace, in a word, you are happy here?" saiH nn« r^f ^, companions. She struggled-she did struggle vei^ hard Zanswe? ■^^ v..«.i..a..,., uu. ic was natural that she should sometimes long to go i J 88 American Notes out of that one cell: she could not help that," she sobbed, poor thing! I went from cell to cell that day; and every face I saw, or word I heard, or incident I noted, is present to my mind in all its painful- ness. But let me pass them by, for one, more pleasant, glance of a prison on the same plan which I afterwards saw at Pittsburg. When I had gone over thai in the same manner, I asked the governor if he had any person in his charge who was shortly going out. He had one, he said, whose time was up next day; but he had only been a prisoner two years. Two years! I looked back through two years of my own life — out of jail, prosperous, happy, surrounded by blessings, comforts, good fortune — and thought how wide a gap it was, and how long those two years passed in solitary captivity would have been. I have the face of this man, who was going to be released next day, before me now. It is almost more memorable in its happiness than the other faces in their misery. How easy and how natural it was for him to say that the system was a good one; and that the time went "pretty quick— considering;" and that when a man once felt that he had offended the law, and must satisfy it, "he got along, somehow:" and so forth ! "What did he call you back to say to you, in that strange flutter? " J asked of my conductor, when he had locked the door and joined me in the passage. "Oh! That he was afraid the soles of his boots were not fit for walking, as they were a good deal worn when he came in; and that he would thank me very much to have them mended, ready." Those boots had been taken off his feet, and put away with the rest of his clothes, two years before ! I took the opportunity of inquiring how they conducted themselves immediately before going out; adding that I presumed they trembled very much. "Well, it's not so much a trembling," was the answer — "though they do quiver — as a complete derangement of the nervous system. They can't sign their names to the book; sometimes can't even hold the pen; look about 'em without appearing to know why, or where they are; and sometimes get up and sit down again, twenty times in a minute. This is when they're in the office, where they are taken with the hood on, as they were brought in. When they get outside the gate, they stop, and look first one way and then the other; not knowing which to take. Sometimes they stagger as if thev .ore drunk, and sometimes are forced to lean against the fence, they're so bad: — but they clear off in course of time." As I walked aJhong these solitary cells, and looked at the faces cf the men within them, I tried to picture to myself the thoughts and feelings natural to their condition. I imagined the hood just taken off, and the scene of their captivity disclosed to them in all ics dismal monotony. At first, the man is stunned. His confinement is a hideous vision; and his there ab and ban the trap work. "C He ha every no years th; piercing : knowledj narrow r spirits te Again starts up another c There i remembe here him could not is the nea both dire( or is he -v long? Is '. Does he tl Scarcel conjures moving al certain of other side Day after night, he never cha them — an hidden fe; makes hin The we; funeral; ai have some their smoo which ton head bene lor <ing do ugly phan- prison win By slow until they hideous, ar American Notes 89 and his old life a reality. He throws himself upon his bed, and lies there abandoned to despair. By degrees the insupportable solitude and barrenness of the place rouses him from this stupor, and when the trap in his grated door is opened, he humbly begs and prays for work. "Give me some work to do, or I shall go raving mad!" He has it; and by fits and starts applies himself to labour; but every now and then there comes upon him a burning sense of the years that must be wasted in that stone coffin, and an agony so piercmg in the recollection of those who are hidden from his view and knowledge, that he starts from his seat, and striding up and down the narrow room with both hands clasped on his uplifted head, hears spirits tempting him to beat his brains out on the wall. Again he falls upon his bed, and lies there, moaning. Suddenly he starts up, wondering whether any other man is near; whether there is another cell like that on either side of him: and listens keenly. There is no sound, but other prisoners may be near for all that He remembers to have heard once, when he little thought of comin^ here himself, that the cells were so constructed that the prisoners could not hear each other, though the officers could hear them. Where is the nearest man— upon the right, or on the left? or is there one in both directions? Where is he sitting now— with his face to the light? or is he walking to and fro? How is he dressed? Has he been here long? Is he much worn away? Is he very white and spectre-like? Does he think of his neighbour too? Scarcely venturing to breathe, and listening while he thinks he conjures up a figure with his back towards him, and imagines it moving about in this next cell. He has no idea of the face, but he is certain of the dark form of a stooping man. In the cell upon the other side, he puts another figure, whose face is hidden from him also Day after day, and often when he wakes up in the middle of the night, he thinks of these two men until he is almost distracted He never changes them. There they are always as he first imagined ^ • j^~^" ^^^ "^^" ^^ *^^ ^^^ht; a younger man upon the left— whose hidden features torture him to death, and have a mystery that makes him tremble. The weary days pass on with solemn pace, like mourners at a funeral; and slowly he begins to feel that the white walls of the cell have something dreadful in them: that their colour is horrible- that their smooth surface chills his blood: that there is one hateful corner which torments him. Every morning when he wakes, he hides his head beneath the coverlet, and shudders to see the ghastly ceilina lor ung down upon him. The blessed light of day itself peeps in an ugly phantom face, through the unchangeable crevice which is' his prison window. By slow but sure degrees, the terrors of that hateful comer swell until they beset him at all times; invade his rest, make his dreams hideous, and his nights dreadful. At first, he took a strange dislikp to it; iceimg as tnough it gave birth in his brain to something of corre- 90 American Notes I spondinR shape, which ought not to he there, and racked his head with pains. 'I'hen ho began to fear it, then to dream of it, and of men whispering its name and pointing to it. Then he could not bear to look at it, nor yet to turn his back upon it. Now, it is every night the lurking-place of a ghost: a shadow: — a silent something, horrible to see, but whether bird, or beast, or muflied human shape, he cannot tell. When he is in his cell by day, he fears the little yard without. When he is in the yard, he dre;uls to re-enter the cell. When night comes, there stands the phantom in the corner. If he have the courage to stand in its place, antl drive it out (he had once: being desperate), it broods upon his bed. In the twilight, and always at the same hour, a voice calls to him by name; as the darkness thickens, his Loom begins to live; and even that, his comfort, is a hideous figure, watching him till daybreak. Again, by slow degrees, these horrible fancies depart from him one by one: returning .sometimes, unexpectedly, but at longer intervals, and in less alarming shapes. He has talked upon religious matters with the gentleman who visits him, and has read his IMble. and has written a prayer upon his slate, and hung it up as a kind of protection, and an assurance of Hea,venly companionship. He dreams now, some- times, of his children or his wife, but is sure that they are dead, or have deserted him. He is easily moved to tears; is gentle, submissive, and broken-spirited. Occasionally, the old agony comes back: a very little thing will revive it; even a familiar sound, or the scent of sum- mi ^iowers in the air; but it does not last long, now: for the world wi. .out, has come to be the vision, and this solitary life, the sad reality. If his term of imprisonment be short — I mean comparatively, for short it cannot be — the last half year is almost worse than all; for then he thinks the prison will take fire and he be burnt in the ruins, or that he is doomed to die within the walls, or that he will be detained on some false charge and sentenced for another term: or that some- thing, no matter what, must happen to prevent his going at large. And this is natural, and impossible to be reasoned against, because, after his long separation from human life, aYid his great suffering, any event will appear to him more probable in the contemplation, than the being restored to liberty and his fellow-creatures. If his period of confinement have been very long, the prospect of release bewilders and confuses him. His broken heart may flutter for a moment, when he thinks of the world outside, and what it might have been to him in all those lonely years, but that is all. The cell- door has been closed too long on all his hopes and cares. Better to have hanged him in the beginning than bring him to this pass, and send him forth to mingle with his kind, who are his kind no more. On the haggard face of every man among these prisoners, the same expression sat. I know not what to liken it to. It had something of that strained attention which we see upon the faces of the blind and American Notes 91 (leaf mingled with a kind of horror, as though they had all been secretly terrified. In every little chamber that I entered and at every grate through which I looked. I seemed to see the sumo appallinL' countenance. It lives in my memory, with the fascination of a remarkable picture. Parade before my eyes, a hundred men. with one among them newly released from this solitary suffering, and I would point him out. ^v^^l^''''^u•"u*^u ^o"^^"' as I have said, it humanises and refines. Whether this be because of their better nature, which is elicited in schtude. or because of their l)eing gentler creatures, of greater patience and ^.nger suffering. I do not know; but so it is. That the pimishment .., nevertheless, to my thinking, fully as cruel and as wrong m their case, as in that of the men, I need scarcely add My firm conviction is that, independent of the mental anguish it occasions— an anguish so acute and so tremendous, that all imagina- tion of it must fall far short of the reality— it wears the mind into a morbid state, which renders it unfit for the rough contact and busy action of the world. It is my fixed opinion that those who have undergone this punishment, must pass into society again morally unhealthy and diseased. There are many instances on record of men vvlio havechosen, or have been condemned, tolives of perfect solitude but I scarcely remember one. even among sages of strong and vigorous intellect, where its effect has not becoi. apparent, in some disordered tram of thought, or some gloomy hallucination What monstrous phantoms, bred of despondency and doubt, and born and reared m solitude, have stalked upon the earth, making creation ugly, and darkening the face of Heaven! Suicides are rare among these prisoners: are almost, indeed unknown. But no argument in favour of the system, can reasonably he deduced from this circumstance, although it is very often urged All men who have made diseases of the mind their study, know perfectly^ well that such extreme depression and despair as will change the whole character, and beat down all its powers of elasticity and self-r»sistance. may be at work within a man, and yet stop short of self-destruction. This is a common case. That it makes the senses dull, and by degr< ea impairs the bodily laculties. I am quite sure. I remarked to those who were with me in this very establishment at Philadelphia, that the criminals who had been there long, were deaf. They, who were in the habit of seeing these men constantly, were perfectly amazed at the idea, which they regarded as groundless and fanciful. And yet the very first prisoner to whom they appealed— one of their own selection— confirmed my im- pression (which was unknown to him) instantly, and said with a genuine air it was impossible to doubt, that he couldn't think how it happened, but he was growing very dull of hearing. That it is a singularly unequal punishment, and affects the worst man least, there is no doubt. In its superior efficiency as a m^ans r.f reformation, compared with that other code of regulations which »( i. ^f^t.^- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) MA ^/ y fe 7a i.O l.i 12.3 ■^ law us 2.5 2.2 y£ 112.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 J4 ^ 6'/ _ ► y <^ /^ / 'cM ^^ '<?/ > '^ > ^ §^. ''W 7 Sciences Corporation 4^ V ^> V ^ Q- 6^ <> 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 4 ir Cv si , ':^i|' 92 American Notes allows the prisoners to work in company without communicating together, I have not the smalle3t faith. All the instaixes of reforma- tion that were mentioned to me, were of a kind that might have been— and I have no doubt whatever, in my own mind, would have been— equally well brought about by the Silent System. With regard to such men as the negro burglar and the English thief, even the most enthusiastic have scarcely any hope of their conversion. It seems to me that the objection that nothing wholesome or good has ever had its growth in such unnatural solitude, and that even a dog or any of the more intelligent among beasts, would pine, and mope and rust away, oeneath its influence, would be in itself a sufficient argument against this system. But when we recollect in addition, how very cruel and severe it is, and that a solitary life is always liable to peculiar and distinct objections of a most deplorable nature which have arisen here, and oall to mind, moreover, that the choice 'is not between this system, and a bad or ill-considered one, but between it and another which has worked well, and is, in its whole design and practice, excellent; there is surely more than sufficient reason for abandoning a mode of punishment attended by so little hope or promise, and fraught, beyond dispute, with such a a host of evils. ; ^ .„ , ^r.- i, i. -^.u As a relief to its contemplation, I will close this chapter with a curious story arising out of the same theme, which was related to me, on the occasion of this visit, by some of the gentlemen concerned. At one of the periodical meetings of the inspectors of this prison, a working man of Philadelphia presented himself before the Board, and earnestly requested to be placed m solitar^r confinement. On being asked what motive could possibly prompt him to make this strange demand, he answered that he had an irresistible propensity to get drunk; that he was constantly indulging it, to his great misery and ruin- that he had no power of resistance; that he wished to be put beyond the reach of temptation; and that he could think of no better way than this. It was pointed out to him, in reply, that the prison was for criminals who had been tried and sentenced by the law and could not be made available for any such fanciful purpc >s; he was exhorted to abstain from intoxicating drinks, as he surely mi^ht if he would; and received other very good advice, with which he retired, exceedingly dissatisfied with the result of his application. He came again, and again, and again, and was so very earnest and importunate, that at last they took counsel together, and said, "He will certainly qualify himself for admission, if we reject him any more. Let us shut him up. He will soon be glad to go away, and then we shall get rid of him." So they made him sign a statement which would prevent his ever sustaining an action for false imprisonment, to the effect that his incarceration was voluntary, and of his own seeking; they requested him to take notice that the officer in atten- dance had orders to release him at any hour of the day or night, when he might knock upon his door for that purpose; but desired WASHING We left P American Notes 93 him to understand, that once going out, he would not be admitted any more. These conditions agreed upon, and he still remaining in the same mind, he was conducted to the prison, and shut up in one of the cells. In this cell, the man, who had not the firmness to leave a glass of liquor standing untasted on a table before him — in this qell, in solitary confinement, and working every da-y at his trade of shoemaking, this man remained nearly two years. His health beginning to fail at the expiration of thq^t time, the surgeon recommended that he should work occasionally in the garden; and as he liked the notion very much, he went about this new occupation with great cheerfulness. He was digging here, one summer day, very industriously, when the wicket in the outer gate chanced to be left open: showing, beyond, the well-remembered dusty road and sun-burnt fields. The way was as free to him as any man living, but he no sooner raised his head and caught sight of it, all shining in the light, than, with the involuntary I.istinct of a prisoner, he cast away his spade, scampered off as fast as his legs would carry him, and never cnce looked back. CHAPTER VIII WASHINGTON. THE LEGISLATURE. AND THE PRESIDENT'S HOUSE We left Philadelphia by steamboat, at six o'clock one very cold morning, and turned our faces towards Washington. In the course of this day's journey, as on subsequent occasions, we encountered some Englishmen (small farmers, perhaps, or country publicans at home) who were settled in America, and were travelling on their own affairs. Of all grades and kinds of men that jostle one in the public conveyances of the States, these are often the most intoler- able and the most insufferable companions. United to every disagree- able characteristic that the worst kind of American travellers possess, these countrymen of ours display an amount of insc'ent conceit and cool assumption of superiority, quite monstrous to be- hold. In the coarse familiarity of their approach, and the effrontery of their inquisitiveness (which they are in great haste to assert, as if they panted to revenge themselves upon the decent old restraints of home), they surpass any native specimens that came within my range of observation; and I often grew go patriotic when I saw and heard them, that I would cheerfully have submitted to a reasonable fine, if I could have given any other country in the whole world, the honour of claiming them for its children. As Washington may be called the headquarters of tobacco-tinc- tured saliva, the time is come when I must confess, without any disguis;, that the prevalence of those two odious practices of chewing 94 American Notes li I t and expectoratingbegan about this time to be anything but agreeable, and soon became most offensive and sickening. In all the public places of America, this filthy custom is recognised. In the courts of law, the judge has his spittoon, the crier his, the witness his, and the prisoner his; while th? jurymen and spectators are provided for, as so many men who in the course of nature must desire to spit incessantly. In the hospitals, the students of medicine are requested, by notices upon the wall, to eject their tobacco juice into the boxes provided for that purpose, and not to discolour the stairs. In public buildings, visitors are implored, through the same agency, to squirt the essence of their quids, or "plugs," as I have heard them called by gentlemen learned in this kind of sweetmeat, into the national spittoons, and not about the bases of the marble columnr . But in some parts, this custom Is inseparably mixed up with every meal and morning call, and with all the transactions of social life. The stranger, who follows in the track I took myself, will find it in its full bloom and glory, luxuriant in all its alarming recklessness, at Washington. And let him not persuade himself (as I once did, to my shame) that previous tourists have exaggerated its extent. The thing itself is an exaggera- tion of nastiness, which cannot be outdone. On board this steaniboat, there were two young gentlemen, with shirt-collars reversed as usual, and r^^ned with very big walking- sticks; who planted two seats in the middle of the deck, at a distance of some four paces apart; took out their tobacco-boxes; and sat down opposite each other to chew. In less than a quarter of an hour's time, these hopeful youths had shed about them on the clean boards, a copious shower of yellow rain; clearing, by that means, a kind of magic circle, within whose limits no intruders dared to come, and which they never failed to refresh and re-refresh before a spot was dry. This being before breakfast, rather disposed me, 1 confess, to nausea; but looking attentively at one of the expectorators, I plainly saw that he was young in chewing, and felt inwardly uneasy, himself. A glow of delight came over me at this discovery; and as I marked his face turn paler and paler, and saw the ball of tobacco in his left cheek, quiver with his suppressed agony, while yet he spat, and chewed, and spat again, in emulation of his older friend, I could have fallen on his neck and implored him to go on for hours. We all sat down to a comfortable breakfast in the cabin below, where there was no more hurry or confusion than at such a meal in England, and where there was certainly greater politeness exhibited than at most of our stage-coach banquets. At about nine o'clock we arrived at the railroad station, and went on by the cars. At noon we turned out again, to cross a wide river in another steamboat; landed at a continuation of the railroad on the opposite shore: and went on by other cars; in which, in the course of the next hour or so, we crossed by wooden bridges, each a mile in length, two creeks, called respec- tively Great and Little Gunpowder. The water in both was blackened with flights of canvas-backed ducks, which are most delicious eating, and aboun These bi enough fo: smallest a( are startlii We stoj were waite ing any sej being, for enviable o and most r though I V me with a After dii seats in th( boys who curious in : in which I shoulders; fell to com with as mu so much ur and eyes, c on difteren behind, as by exercisi] precocious return to tl has walked his pocketJ refreshing ] water-jug; < the street I "Come on entreaties c We read had upon t building of manding er that night; Breakfasi or two, and back, and 1< my eye. Take the straggling ( serving all • ings, occupi 95 , American Notes and abound hereabouts at that season of the year. These bridges are of wood, have no parapet, and are only just wide enough for the passage of the trains; which, in the event of the smallest accident, would iiv vitably be plunged into the river. They are startling contrivances, and are most agreeable when passed. We stopped to dine at Baltimore, and being now in Maryland, were waited on, for the fint time, by slaves. The sensation of exact- ing any service from human creatures who are bought and sold, and being, for the time, a party as it were to their condition, is not an enviable one. The institution exists, perhaps, in its least repulsive and most mitigated form in such a town as this; but it is slavery; and though I was, with respect to it, an innocent man, its presence filled me with a sense of shame and self-reproach. After dinner, we went down to the railroad again, and took our seats in the cars for Washington. Being rather early, those men and boys who happened to have nothing particular to do, and were curious in foreigners, came (according to custom) round the carriage in which I sat; let down all the windows; thrust in their heads and shoulders; hooked themselves on conveniently, by their elbows; and fell to comparing notes on the subject of my personal appearance, with as much indifference as if I were a stuffed figure. I never gained so much uncompromising information with reference to my own nose and eyes, and various impressions wrought by my mouth and chin on different minds, and how my head looks when it is viewed from behind, as on these occasions. Some gentlemen were only satisfied by exercising their sense of touch; and the boys (who are surprisingly precocious in America) were seldom satisfied, even by that, but would return to the charge over and over again. Many a budding president has walked into my room with his cap on his head and his hands in his pockets, and stared at me for two whole hours: occasionally refreshing himself with a tweak of his nose, or a draught from the water-jug; or by walking to the windows and inviting other boys in the street below, to come up and do likewise: crying, "Here he is!" "Come on!" "Bring all your Brothers!" with other hospitable entreaties of that nature. We reached Washington at about half-past six that evening, and had upon the way a beautiful view of the Capitol, which is a fine building of the Corinthian order, placed upon a noble and com- manding eminence. Arrived at the hotel; I saw no more of the place that night; Doing very tired, and glad to get to bed. Breakfast over next morning, I walk about the streets for an hour or two, and, coming home, throw up the window in the front and back, and look out. Here is Washington, fresh in my mind and under iny eye. Take the worst parts of the City Road and Pentonville, or the straggling outskirts of Paris, where the houses are smallest, pre- serving all their oddities, but especially the small shops and dwell- ings, occupied in Pentonville (but not in Washington) by fumiture- If-' l.li-T; f T^' 96 American Notes iv brokers, keepers of poor eating-houses, and fanciers of birds. Burn the whole down; build it up again in wood and plaster, widen it a ittle; throw in part of St. John's Wood; put green blinds outside all the private houses, with a red curtain and a white one in every wuidow; plough up all the roads: plant a great deal of coarse turf m every place where it ought not to be; erect three handsome buildings in stone and marble, anywhere, but the more entirely out of eveg^body s way the better; call one the Post Office, one the Patent Office, and one the Treasury; make it scorching hot in the morning, and freezing cold m the afternoon, with an occasional tornado of wind and dust; leave a brick-field without the bricks, in all central places where a street may naturally be expected: and that's Washington. The hotel in which we live, is a long row of small houses fronting on the street, md opening at the back upon a common yard, in which hangs a great triangle. Whenever a servant is wanted, somebody beats on this triangle from one stroke up to seven, according to the number of the house in which his presence is required; and as all the servants arc always being wanted, and none of them ever come this enlivening engine is in full performance the whole day through. Clothes arc drying in the same yard; female slaves, with cotton handkerchiefs twisted' round their heads, are runnmg to and fro on the hotel business; black waiters cross and recross w-th dishes in their hands; two great dogs are playing upon a mound of loose bricks in the centre of the little square; a pig is turnmg up his stomach to the sun. and grunting "that's comfortable!" and neither the men. nor the women, nor the dogs, nor the pig. nor any created creature takes the smallest notice of the triangle, which is tmghng madly all I wSk to the front window, and look across the road upon a long, straggling row of houses, one story high, terminating, nearly opposite, but a little to the left, in a melancholy piece of wa^te gfound with frowzy grass, which looks like a small piece of country Sat has taken to drinking, and has quite lost itself Standing any- how and all wrong, upon this open space, like something meteoric that has lallen down from the moon, is an odd lop-sided. one-eyed kind of wooden building, that looks like a church, with a, flag-staff as long as itself sticking out of a steeple something larger than a tea- chelt. Under the window is a small stand of coaches, whose slave- drivers are sunning themselves on the steps of our door and talking idlv together. The three most obtrusive houses near at hand are the three meanest. On one -a shop, which never has anything m the window, and never has the door open— is painted m large characters. "The City Lunch." At another, which looks hke a backway to some- where else, but is an independent building in itself, oysters are pm- cui^ble in every style. At the third, which is a very, very httle taSr4 shop. pSits ire fixed to order, or in other words pantaloons are made to measure. And that is our street m ^yashlngton. It is sometimes called the City of Magnificent Distances, Imt it American Notes 97 might with greater propriety be termed the City of Magnificent Intentions; for It IS only on taking a bird's-eye view of it from the top of the Capitol, that one can at all comprehend the vast designs of its projector an aspiring Frenchman. Spacious avenues, that begin in nothing, and lead nowhere; streets, mile-long, that only want houses roads and inhabitants; public buildings that need but a public to be complete; and ornaments of great thoroughfares, which only lack great thoroughfares to ornament-are its leading features One might fancy the season over, and most of the houses gone out of town for ever with their masters. To the admirers of cities it is a Barmecide Feast: a pleasant field for the imagination to rove in- a monument raised to a deceased project, with not even a legible inscription to record its departed greatness. Such as it is. it is likely to remain. It was originally chosen for the seat of Government, as a means of averting the conflictine iealonsiPQ and interests of the different States; and ve^ry probably to^o'asS remote from mobs: a consideration not to be slighted, even in America. It has no trade or commerce of its own: having little or no population beyond the President and his establishment; the members of the egislature who reside there during the session; the Govern- ment clerks and officers employed in the various departments; the keepers of the hotels and boarding houses; and the tradesmen who supply their tables. It is very unhealthy. Few people would live in Washington. I take it. who were not obliged to reside there; and the tides of emigration and speculation, those rapid and regardless currents, are little likely to flow at any time towards such dull and sluggish water. The principal features of the Capitol, are. of course, the two houses of Assembly. But there is, be. ' Jes. in the centre of the building a fine rotunda, ninety-six feet in diameter, and ninety-six high whose circular wall is divided into compartments, ornamented by historical pictures. Four of these have for their subjects prominent events in the revolutionary struggle. They were painted by Colonel Trumbull himself a member of Washington's staff at the time of their occur- rence; from which circumstance they derive a peculiar interest of their own In this same hall Mr. Greenough's large statue of Washington has been lately placed. It has great merits of course, but it struck me as being rather strained and violent for its subject. I could wish however, to have seen it in a better light than it can ever be viewed m, where it stands. There is a very pleasant and commodious library in the Capitol and from a balcony in front, the bird's-eye view, of which I fiave ]ust spoken, may be had. together with a beautiful prospect of the adjacent country. In one of the ornamented portions of the building there is a figure of Justice; whereunto the Guide Book says "the artist at first contemplated giving more of nudity, but he was warned that the public sentiment in this country would not admit of it and in his caution he has gone, perhaps, into the opposite extreme." 322 >)i h n r 98 American Notes IS If l!ili?.< i Poor Justice I she has been made to wear much stranger garments in America than those she pines in, in the Capitol. Let us hope that she has changed her dress-maker since they were fashioned, and that the public sentiment of the country did not cut out the clothes she hides her lovely figure in, just now. The House of Representatives is a beautiful and spacious hall, of semicirculai saape, supported by handsome pillars. One part of the gallery is appropriated to the ladies, and there they sit in front rows, and come in, and go out, as at a play or concert. The chair is canopied, and raised considerably above the floor of the House; and every member hai an easy chair and a writing desk to himself: which is denounced by some people out of doors as a most unfortunate and injudicious arrangement, tending to long sittings and prosaic speeches. It is an elegant chamber to lobk at, but a singularly bad one for all purposes of hearing. The Senate, which is smaller, is free from this objection, and is exceedingly well adapted to the uses fcr which it is designed. The sittings, I need hardly add, take place in the day; and the parliamentary forms are modelled on those of the old country. I was sometimes asked, in my progress through other places, vvhether I had not been ,very much impressed by the heads of the law- makers at Washington; meaning not their chiefs and leaders, but literally their individual and personal heads, whereon their hair grew, and whereby the phrenological character of each legislator was expressed: and I almost as often struck my questioner dumb with indignant consternation by answering "No, that I didn't remember being at all overcome." As I must, at whatever hazard, repeat the avowal here, I will follow it up by relating my impressions on this subject in as few words as possible. In the first place — it may be from some imperfect development of my organ of veneration — I do not remcaiber having ever fainted away, or having even been moved to tears of joyful pride, at sight of any legislative body. I have borne the House of Commons like a man, and have yielded to no weakness, but slumber, in the House of Lords. I have seen elections for borough and county, and have never been impelled (no matter which party won) to damage my hat by throwing it up into the air in triumph, or to crack my voice by shouting forth any reference to our Glorious Constitution, to the noble purity of our independent voters, or, the unimpeachable integrity of our inde- pendent members. Having withstood such strong attack^ upon my fortitude, it is possible that I may be of a cold and insensible tempera- ment, amounting to iciness, in such matters; and therefore my impressions of the live pillars of the Capitol at Washington must be received with such grains of allowance as this free confession may seem to demand. Did I see in this public body an assemblage of men, bound together in the sacred names of Liberty and Freedom, and so asserting the chaste dignity of those twin goddesses, in all their discussions, as to American Notes 99 exalt at once the Eternal Principles to which their names are Riven and their own character and the character of their countrymen in the adminng eyes of the whole world? ^ It was but a week, since an aged, grey-haired man. a lasting honour to the land that gave him birth, who has done good servife to nis country, as his lorefathers did. and who will be remembered scores upon scores of years after the worms bred in its corruption, are but S many grams of dust-it was but a week, since this old man had stood for days upon his trial before this very body, charged with havSg dared to assert the infamy of that traffic, which has for its accursed merchandise men and women, and their unborn children Yes And publicly exhibited in the same city all the while; gilded, framed and glazed; hung up for general admiration, shown to strangers not with shame, but pride; its face not turned towards the will, itself not taken down and burned; is the Unanimous Declaration of the Thuteen United States of America, which solemnly declares that All Men are created Equal; and are endowed by their Creator with the Inalienable Rights of Life. Liberty, and the Pursuit of Happiliess ! It was not a month, since this same body hud sat calmly by and heard a man. one of themselves, with oaths which beggars in their dnnk reject, threaten to cut another's throat from ear to ear There he sat^ among them; not crushed by the general feeling of the assembly, but as good a man as any. ** There was but a week to come, and another of that body, for doing his duty to those who sent him there; for claiming in a Republic thi Liberty and Freedom of expressing their sentiments, and makine known theu- prayer; would be tried, found guilty, and have stroni censure passed upon him by the rest. His was a grave offence indeed • for years before, he had risen up and said. "A gang of male and female slaves for sale, warranted to breed like cattle, linked to each otheTbv iron fetters, are passing now along the open street beneath the windows of your Temple of Equality! Look!" But there are many kinds of hunters engaged in the Pursuit of Happiness, and they eo variously armed It is the Inalienable Right of some among them, to take the field after thetr Happiuess equipped with cat and cartv/hio stocks, and iron collar, and to shout their view halloa! (always in praise of Liberty) to the music of clanking chains and bloody stripes VVhere sat the many legislators of coarse threats; of "words and blows such as coalheavers deal upon each other, when they forget their breeding? On every side. Every session had its anecdotes of that kind, and the actors were all there. Did I recognise in this assembly, a body of men, who. applying themselves m a new world to correct some of the falsehoods and vices of the old. purified the avenuesto Public Life, paved the dirty ways to Place and Power, debated and made laws for the Common Good, and had no parly but their Country? I saw in them the wheels that move the meanest perversion of virtuous Political Machinery that the worst tools ever wrought. 1, M r I r ^"P^flPprP^«P»«rP5HI!»WfP!l™1^«^^ '- . 1 $A 100 American ^ otes Despicable trickery at elections; under-handed tamperings with public officers; co\va,rdly attacks upon opponents, with scurrilous newspapers for shields, and hired pens for daggers; shameful truck- lings to mercenary knaves, whose claim to be considered, is, that every day and week they sow new crops of ruin with their venal types, which are the dragon's teeth of yore, in everything but sharp- ness; aidings and abettings of every bad inclination in the popular mind, and artful suppressions of all its good influences: such things as these, and in a word. Dishonest Faction in its inoat depraved and most unblushing form, stared out from every comer of the crowded hall. Did I see among them, the intelligence and refintment: the true, honest, patriotic heart of America? Here and there, were drops of its blood and life, but they scarcely coloured the stren.Ti of desperate adventurers which sets that way for profit and for pay. It is the game of these men, and of their profligate organs, to make the strife of politics so fierce and brutal, and so destructive of all self-respect in worthy men, that sensitive and delicate-minded persons shall be kept aloof, and they, and such as they, be left to battle out their selfish views unchecked. And thus this lowest of all scrambling fights goes on, and they who in other countries would, from their intelligence and station,, most aspire to make the laws, do here recoil the farthest from that degradation. That there are, among the representatives of the people in both Houses, and among all parties, some men of high character and great abilities, I need not say. The foremost among those politicians who are known in Europe, have been already described, and I see no reason to depart from the rule I have laid down for my guidance, of abstaining from all mention of individuals. It will be sufficient to add, that to the most favourable accounts that have been written of them, I more than fully and most heartily subscribe; and that personal intercourse and free communication have bred within me, not the result predicted in the very doubtful proverb, but increased admira- tion and respect. They are striking men to look at, hard to deceive, prompt to act, lions in energy, Crichtons in varied accomplishments, Indians in fire of eye and gesture, Americans in strong and generous impulse; and they as well represent the hbnour and wisdom of their country at home, as the distinguished gentleman who is now its Minister at the British Court sustains its highest character abroad. I visited both houses nearly every day, during my stay in Wash- ington. On my initiatory visit to the House of Representatives, they divided against a decision of the chair; but the chair won. The second time I went, the member who was speaking, being interrupted by a laugh, mimicked it, as one child would in quarrelling with another, and added, "that he would make honourable gentlemen opposite, sing out a little more on the other side of their mouths presently." But interruptions are rare; the speaker being usually heard in silence. There are more quarrels than with us, and more threatenings than gentlemen are accustomed to exchange in any civilised society of American Notes 10.1 which we have record: but farm-yard imitations have not as 3ret been imported from the Parliament of the United Kingdom. The feature m oratory which appears to be the most practised, and most relished 1? the constant repetition of the same idea or shadow of an idea in fresh words; and the inquiry out of doors is not, "What did he say?" but. "How long did he speak'" These, however, are but enlargements of a principle whi:h prevails elsewhere. The Senate is a dignified and decorous body, and its proceedings are conducted with much gravity and order. Both houses are hand- somely carpeted; but the state to which these carpets are reduced by the universal disregp.d of the spittoon with which every honourable member is accommodated, and the extraordinary improvements on the pattern which are squirted and dabbled upon it in every direction, do not admit of being described. I will merely observe, that I strongly recommend all strangers not to look at the floor; and if they happen to drop anything, though it be their purse, not to pick it up with aii ungloved hand on any account. It is somewhat remarkable too. at first, to say the least, to see so many honourable members with swelled faces; and it is scarcely less remarkable to discover that this appearance is caused by the quantity of tobacco they contrive to stow within the hollow of the cheek. It is strange enough too, to see an honourable gentleman leaning back in his tilted chair with his legs on the desk before him shaping a convenient "plug" with his penknife, and when it is quite ready for use, shooting the old one from his mouth, as from a pop- gun, and clapping the new one in its place, I was surprised to observe that even steady old chcwers of great experience. ar'=> not always good marksmen, which has rather incline ' ': doubt that general proficiency with the rifle, of which we h,? "o much in England. Several gentlemen called upon ^® w^ ^ >■' se of conversation, frequently missed the spittoon ^^ fi^*- ■>ne (but he was certainly short-sighted) mistook the clot the open window, at three. On another occasion when I dui md was sitting with two ladies and some gentle- men round a lire before dinner, on-, of the company fell short of the fireplace, six distinct times, l an. disposed to think, however, that this was occasioned by his not aiming at that object; as there was a white marble hearth before the fender which was more convenient, and may have suited his purpose better. The Patent Office at Washington, furnishes an extraordinary example of American enterprise and ingenuity; for the immense number of models it contai.iS are the accumulated inventions of only five years; the whole of the previous collection having been ciestroyed by fire. The elegant structure in which they are arranged is one of design rather than execution, for there is but one side erected out of four, though the works are stopped. The Post Office IS a very compact and very beautiful building. In one of the depart- ments, among a collection of rare and curious articles, are deposited MpmRiPPiMip loa Anioricuin Nt>tcs llm ptrNrHtii whUh 5mx"* Ihth n>tt«lc fnun time ti) time t<» tho Ainrri- i*n ttn»UiiHtt»lorn «( Iui.Imu ruurtu by lli»^ vitrl«»UH potnuUtrn In whom thry wrrr thi* mt lotlltfU mr'^hIm of llio Koi.ubllc; Hilin which by Ih'^ U\v lhc»y wrr not iH'riuittrtI to irtuiii. I toiil. hh thut I Uiokrd upon thi« fts H vory paiulul rxhlhitliui, unci one l»y no n»runf< llutterinK to Ww national htrtiuhinl ot lionoMty unci htMUUir. Ihut cun m an c ly bo u high KtMto ot moiul Irt'lInK whUh inrnKinoH ii Kcntlonmn ol n^iuit. and Httttion. likoly to l>c riinnptrd. in tlio .lini harx«^ of uin tbity. by tJ>o pirxent oi a Hnull box. oi a i u hly niotinttnl Hwonl. or an hiuNtrrn ..hawl. luul Kutvly tl>o Nation who' rop«moH ionll«|rnce in hrr ap- pointcil Noivrtnt;^," In Ukolv to Jw better Hrrvnl. than who who mukcN thon\ tho nnbioct of such vi rv moan an«l paltry suNpit ions. At t;<H>rno Town. n» tho HU^nirbs. tnoto »m a josnit tolloKo; uoliKht- fully NituatoM. atul. m» far uh I Iwul an t»pportunlty of t ^m, woll inrtimKod. Mnny porNoUH who arc not nuinlKiH of tho UomlHh Chunh. avail tiuMn.HolvoH. I In^liovo. of t bono institutions, and of tho advat»t'\Koous op!H)VtunitioM thry a»'t»rd h»r t)u> oducation of thoir chlldivn. I ho homhts of this ijoiKbi onrhoovl. abovo tho l\»t<>n»ac Kivcr, art» vory pictnro.s»pio: and aro (roo. I Hhould concolvo. i.on* somo of tho insiilubritioH of Washinnto i. Iho air. at that olovatior, wa.N Muito cool and rofivsbinK. whot» in t»»o city H wan burning hot. Tho IhvHidont's mansion is moro like an ICnglish clnb-houso. both within and without, than any t>thor kind of ostablishmont with. wh«cl\ 1 can c<m\varr it. Iho ornamoiHal grnind abo\it it has boon laid out in tho ganicn walks: thov aiv protty. ami aKrooablt* t.^ tho oyo; thonKlj thoy have that unct>mfortablo air of having Ihhmi mado yesterday, which is tar frxun favourable to tho tlisplay of such boautios. My first viwit tv» this house was on the morning after n»y arrival, when I was c-turied thither by an olficial gojitloinan. who was su kind as to chargt^ himself with xwy presentation to tho I'rosident. We otilereil a largo hall, and having twUe or thrico rung a bell which nolHuly answeu^l. walkovl without further ceremony through the riHims on tho groiuul lloor. as divera other gentlemen (mostly with their hats on. and their hands in their pockets) wore domg very leisun^ly. Sv>me of these had ladies with them, tti whom thoy were showing the pi-omisos; others were lounging on tho chairs and sofas; others, in a i^rfect state of exhaustitui from listlessness, were vawning dr^^arily. The gn.\iter portion of this assemblage were rather assertii\g their supr'.Muacv than doing anything else, as they bad no jvarticular business theW\ that anybody knew of. A few were closely e\^ing the movables, as if to make quite sure that tho Presi- dent (who was far from iK)pular) had not made away with any of the furniture, or sold the fixtures for his private benefit. After glancing st these loungers; who were scattered over a pretty drawing-room, opening upoa a terrace which commanded a beautiful pn>spect of the river and the adjacent country: and who were sauntering, too, about a larger state-room called the Eastern Drawmg- rooni; we went vp-stairs into another chamber, where were certam Amefickin Kites 103 vlnltofi, wniHnR f(ir nn.llnncf m nl^ht nf my coRr1u'-*or. a black in plnlti ( IcJthrH tvu\ yrllow nli,r,«.rM who wan KlMing noiiwl«Hnly atKiiit, ind whlMp'TtnK mcuHaK^^n 1 tho *?ttrii ot i\w morn Impatient, made a .iKM «pf m Munition, nnd ^lldinl nfi to unnr»unrr» him. VVr hiu! jni'vinuNly !««.l<<vl Into anothrr rh.'iml)rr flttrd all round wilh HK»'*''»1. '"irr. "/oodnn drHk ortriiinirr, wh<Tcofi hiy ftleN of n«wii- p.ipcrH, i'> which Niindry Kimtlnmon wore rRfrrrln^. Mut thcr« were no !ni(li mc(in« of hcKuliinx thn tim« In thh Hpni.mont, which wan an impntmlHinK und tlrr;«omc nn any waltlnj^-room in <»no of our public rsl.ihllMhiiirntM, or any phyHician'M dlninK-room during hid ..jur» of ( oMNiiltatlon at homn. Thrrr wrrn somn fUt»i<in or twenty poriion t in thft room. One, a talt, wiry, mnmiilar old num. from thn wi-Mt; Munburnt and Hwarthy; with a brown whitn hat on IiIh kn»wH, and a ^iant indmilla reciting l>ctwecn hif« Ickn; who Mat bolt unrl^ht in hin cliair, frowning Mtcadily at the (arppt, and twitching the hard HnrM abfjMt hhi mouth, an if he had made up his mind "to fix" the l>refiident on what he had to Hay. and wouldn't bate him a grain. .Another, a Kentucky farmer, Hix-fcet-«ix in height, with bin hat on. and hin handH under IiIh coat-tailn, who h'aned against the wall an<l kicked tho floor with hl« heel. aN though he had I'ime'M head r !' r his shoo, and were literaUy "killing" him. A third, nn oval-fac- .1, bilious-l(;oking man, with sleek black hair cropped close, and whiskenj and beard 8havod down to blue dots, who sucked the head of a thick .stick, and from time to time took it out of his mouth, to sec how it was getting on. A fourth did nothing but whistle. A fifth did nothing but spit. And indeed all these gentlemen wcfe so very ]>er.scvcring and energetic in this latter particulai-, and bestowed their favours so abundantly upon the carpet, that I take it for granted tho l^esldcntial h)U.semaids have high wages, or, to speak more genteelly, an ample amount of "compensation:" which is the American word for salary, in the ca.se of nil public servants. We had not rva'ted in this room many minutes, before the black incs.songer returned, and conducted us into another of 8r»ialler dimensions, where, at a busine.s3-likc table covered with papers, sat t!ic President himself. He looked somewhat worn and anxious, and \volI he might; being at war with everybody — but the expression cf his face was mild and pleasant, and his manner was remarkably unaffected, gentlemanly, and agreeable. I thought that in his whole carriage and demeanour, he became his station singularly wed. Being advised that the .sensible etiquette of the republican court julmitted of a traveller, like myself, declining, without any impro- priety, an invitation to dinner, which did not reach me until I had concluded my arrangements for leaving Washington scmj days before that to which it referred, 7 only '•eturiiAd to this house once. It was on the occasion of one of those general assemblies which are held on csrtain nights, between the hours of nine and twelve o'clock, and are called, rather oddly, Levees. I went, with my wife, at about ten. There was a pretty dense M if m 104 American Notes crowd of carriages and people in the court-yard, and so far as I could make out, there were no very clear regulations for the taking up or the setting down of company. There were certainly no police- men to soothe startled horses, either by sawing at their bridles or flourishing truncheons in their eyes; and I am ready to make oath that no inoffensive persons were knocked violently on the head, or poked acutely in their backs or stomachs; or brought to a st:.nd-still by any siTch gentle means, and then taken into custody for not moving on. But there was no confusion or disorder. Our carriage reached the porch in its turn, without any blustering, swearing, shouting, backing, or other disturbance: and we dismounted with as much ease and comfort as though we had been escorted by the whole Metropolitan Force from A to Z inclusive. The suite of rooms on the ground-floor were lighted up and a military band was playing in the hall. In the smaller drawing-room, the centre of a circle of company, were the President and his daughter- in-law, who acted as the lady of the mansion; and a very interesting, graceful, and accomplished lady too. One gentleman who stood among this group, appeared to take upon himself the functions of a master of the ceremonies. I saw no other officers or attendants, and none were needed. The great drawing-room, which I have already mentioned, and the other chambers on the ground-floor, were crowded to excess. The company was not, in our sense of the term, select, for it comprehended persons of very many grades and classes; nor was there any great display of costly attire: indeed, some of the costumes may have been, for aught I know, grotesque enough. But the decorum and propriety of behaviour which prevailed, were unbroken by any rude or disagree- able incident; and every man, even among the miscellaneous crowd in the hall who wee admitted without any orders or tickets to look on, appeared to feel that he was a part of the Institution, and was respciisible for its preserving a becoming character, and appearing to the best advantage. That these visitors, too, whatever their station, were not without some refinement of taste and appreciation of intellectual gifts, and gratitude to those men who, by the peaceful exercise of great abilities, shed new charms and associations upon the homes of their country- men, and elevate their character in other lands, was most earnestly testified by their reception of Washington Irving, my dear friend, who had recently been appointed Minister at the court of Spain, and who was among them that night, in his new character, for the first and last time before going abroad. I sincerely believe that in all the madness of American politics, few public men would have been so earnestly, devotedly, and affectionately caressed, as this most charm- ing writer: and I have seldom respected a public assembly more, than I did this eager throng, when I saw them turning with one mind from noisy s..ratnrs and officers of state, and flockinp^ with a p'enerous and honest impulse round the man of quiet pursuits: proud in his promo- American Notes 105 tion as reflecting back upon their country: and grateful to him with their whole hearts for the store of graceful fancies he had poured out among them. Long may he dispense such treasures with unsparing hand; and long may they remember him as worthily ! rhe term we had assigned for the duration of our stay in Washing- ton was now at an end. and we were to begin to travel; for llie rail- road distances we had traversed yet. in journeying among these older towns, are on that great continent looked upon as nothing I had at first intended going South— to Charleston. But when I came to consider the length of time which this journey would occupv and the premature heat of the season, which even at Washington had been often very trying; anc weighed moreover, in my own mind the pam of hvmg in the constant contemplation of slavery against the more than doubtful chances of my ever seeing it. in the time I had to spare, stripped of the disguises in which it would certainly be dressed and so adding any item to the host of facts already heaped togethe^ on the subject; I began to listen to old whisperings which had often been present to me at home in England, when I little thought of ever Wbmg here; and to dream again of cities growing up. like palaces in tairy tales, among the wilds and forests of the west The advice I received in most quarters when I began to yield to mv desire of traveUmg towards chat point of the compass was. according to custom, sufficiently cheerless: my companion being threatened with more perils, dangers, and discomforts, than I can remember or would catalogue if I could; but of which it will be sufficient to remark that blowmgs-up in steamboats and breakings-down in coaches were among the least. But. having a western route sketched out for me by the best and kindest authority to which I could have resorted and putting no great faith in these discouragements, I soon deter- mined on my plan of action. This was to travel south, only to Richmond in Virginia; and then to turn, and shape our course for the Far West; whither I beseech the reader s company, in a new chapter. CHAPTER IX A NIGHT STEAMER ON THE POTOMAC RIVER. VIRGINIA ROAD AND A BLACK DRIVER. RICHMOND. BALTIMORE. THE HARRISBURG MAIL AND A GLIMPSE OF THE CITY. A CANAL BOAT. We were to proceed in the first instance by steamboat; and as it is usual to sleep on board, in consequence of the starting-hour being tour o c^ocxciii the luummg, we went down to where she lay at that very uncomfortable time for such expeditions when slippers are most 322* ■3 i , I io6 American Notes valuable, and a familiar bed, in the perspective of an hour or two, looks uncommonly pleasant. It is ten o'clock at night: say half-past ten: moonlight, warm, and dull enough. The steamer (not unlike a child's Noah's ark in form, with the machinery on the top of the roof) is riding lazily up and down, and bumping clumsily against the wooden pier, as the ripple of the river trifles with its unwieldly carcase. The wharf is some distance from the city. There is nobody down here; and one or two dull lamps upon the steamer's decks are the only signs of life remaining, when our coach has driven away. As soon as our footsteps are heard upon the planks, a fat negress, particularly favoured by nature in respect of bustle, emerges from some dark stairs, and marshals my wife to- wards the ladies' cabin, to which retreat she goes, foUowedby a mighty bale of cloaks and great-coats. I valiantly resolve not to go to bed at all, but to walk up and down the pier till morning. I begin my promenade — thinking of all kinds of distant things and persons, and of nothing near — and pace up and down for half-an- hour. Then I go on board again; and getting into the light of one of the lamps, look at my watch and think it must have stopped; and wonder what has become of the faithful secretary whom I brought along with me from Boston. He is supping with our late landlord (a Field Marshal, at least, no doubt) in honors of our departure, and may be two hours longer. I walk again, but it gets duller and duller: the moon goes down: next June seems farther off in the dark, and the echoes of my footsteps ir^ake me nervous. It has turned cold too; and walking up and down without my companion in such lonely circumstances, is but poor amusement. So I break my staunch resolution, and think it may be, perhaps, as well to go to bed. I go on board again; open the door of the gentlemen's cabin; and walk in. Somehow or other — from its being so quiet, I suppose — I have taken it into my head that there is nobody there. To my horror and amazement it is full of sleepers in every stage, shape, attitude, and variety of slumber: in the berths, on the chairs, on the floors, on the tables, and particularly round the stove, my detested enemy. I take another step forward, and slip on the shining face of a black steward, who lies rolled in a blanket on the floor. He jumps up, grins half in pain and half in hospitality; whispers my own name in my ear; and groping among the sleepers, leads me to my berth. Standing beside it, I count these slumbering passengers, a, '\ get past forty. There is no use in going further, so I begin to undress. As the chairs are all occupied, and there is nothing else to put my clothes on, I deposit them on the ground: not without soiling my hands, for it is in the same condition as the carpets in the Capitol, and from the same cause. Having but partially undressed, I clamber on my shelf, and hold the curtain open for a few minutes while I look round on all my fellow-travellers again. That done, I let it fall on them, and on the ^vorld: turn round: and go to sleep. i wake, of course, when we get under weigh, for there is a good deal American Notes 107 of noise. The day is then just breaking. Everybody wakes at the same time. Some are self-possessed directly, and some are much perplexed to niake out where they are until they have rubbed their eyes, and leaning on one elbow, looked about them. Some yawn, some groan nearly all spit, and a few get up. I am among the risers: for it is easy to feel, without going into the fresh air, that the atmosphere of the cabin is vile in the last degree. I huddle on my clothes, go down into the fore-cabin, get shaved by the barber, and wash myself. The wash- ing and dressing apparatus for the passengers generally, consists of two jack-towels, three small wooden basins, a keg of water and a ladle to serve it out wi^h, six square inches of looking-glass, two ditto ditto of yellow soap, a comb and brush for the head! and nothing for the teeth. Everybody uses the comb and brush, except myself. Everybody stares to see me using my own; ard two or threo gentlemen are strongly disposed to banter me on my prejudices, but don't. When I have made my toilet, I go upon the hurricane-deck, and set in for two hours of hard walking up and down. The sun is rising brilliantly; we are passing Mount Vernon, where Washington lies buried; the river is wide and rapid; and its banks are beautiful. All the glory and splendour of the day are coming on, and growing brighter every minute. At eight o'clock we breakfast in the cabin where I passed the night, but the windows and doors are all thrown open, and now it is fresh enough. There is no hurry or greediness apparent in the despatch of the meal. It is longer than a travelling breakfast with us; more orderly, and more polite. Soon after nine o'clock we come to Potomac Creek, where we are to land; and then comes the oddest part of the journey. Seven stage- coaches are preparing to carry us on. Some of them are ready, some of them are not ready. Some of the drivers are blacks, some whites. There are four horses to each coach, and all the horses, harnessed or unharnessed, are there. The passengers are getting out of the steam- boat, and into the coaches; the luggage is being transferred in noisy wheelbarrows; the horses are frightened, and impatient to start; the black drivers are chattering to them like so many monkeys, and the white ones whooping like so many drovers: for the main thing to be done in all kinds of hostlering here, is to make as m-^ch noise as possi- ble. The coaches are something like the French coaches, but not nearly so good. In lieu of springs, they are hung on bands of the strongest leather. There is very little choice or difference between them; and they may be likened to the car portion of the swings at an English fair, roofed, put upon axle-trees and wheels, and curtained with painted canvas. They are covered with mud from the roof to the wheel-tire, and have never been cleaned since they were first built. The tickets we have received on board the steamboat are marked No. I, so we belong to coach No. i. I throw my coat on the box, and ..•-•t.,v xixjf rrii^, aiiu iici liiaiu. ixiLu Liic iiisiuc. it HEo OHiy Ouc sicp, and that being about a yard from the ground, is usually approached by I Si io8 American Notes i»,;' 'i!' Il'i ll 'I It a chair: when there is no chair, ladies trust in Providence. The coach holds nine inside, having a seat across from door to door, where we in England put our legs: so that there is only one feat more difficult in the performance than getting in, and that is, getting out again. There is only one outside passenger, and he sits upon the box. As I am that one, I climb up; and v/hile they are strapping the luggage on the roof, and heaping it into a kind of tray behind, have a good opportxmity of looking at the driver. He is a negro — very black indeed. He is dressed in a coarse pepper- and-salt suit excessively patched and darned (particularly at the knees), grey stockings, enormous unblacked high-low shoes, and veiy short trousers. He has two odd gloves: one of parti-coloured worsted, and one of leather. He has a very short whip, broken in the middle and bandaged up with string. And yet he wears a low-crowned, broad-brimmed, black hat: faintly shadowing forth a kind of insane imitation of an English coachman ! But somebody in authority cries "Go ahead!" as I am making these observations. The mail takes the lead in a four-horse waggon, and all the coaches follow in procession: headed by No. i. By the way, whenever an Englishman would cry "All right!" an American cries "Go ahead!" which is somewhat expressive of the national character of the two countries. The first half-mile of the road is over bridges made of loose planks laid across two parallel poles, which tilt up as the wheels roll over them; and in the river. The river has a clayey bottom and is full of holes, so that half a horse is constantly disappearing unexpectedly, and can't be found again for some time. But we get past even this, and come to the road itself, which is a series of alternate swamps and gravel-pits. A tremendous place is close before us, the black driver rolls his eyes, screws his mouth up very round, and looks straight between the two leaders, as if he were saying to himself, "We have done this often before, but now I think we shall have a crash." He takes a rein in each hand; jerks and pulls at both; and dances on the splashboard with both feet (keeping his seat, of course) like the late lamented Ducrow on two of his fiery coursers. We come to the spot, sink down in the mire nearly to the coach windows, tilt on one side at an angle of forty-five degrees, and stick there. The insides scream dismally; the coach stops; the horses flounder; all the other six coaches stop; and their four-and-twenty horses flounder likewise: but merely for company, and in sympathy with ours. Then the following circumstances occur. Black Driver (to the horses). "Hi!" Nothing happens. Insides scream again. Black Driver (to the horses). "Ho!" Horses plunge, and splash the black driver. Gentleman inside (looking out). "Why, what on airth — *' Gentleman receives a variety of splashes and draws his head in again, without finishing his question or waiting for an answer. -I. JL11.0 American Notes 109 Black Driver (stiU to the horses). "Jiddy! Jiddy!" Horses pull violently, drag the coach out of the hole, and draw it up a bank; so steep, that the black driver's legs fly up into the air, and he goes back among the luggage on the roof. But he immediately recovers himself, and cries (still to the horses), "Pill!" No effect. On the contrary, the coach begins to roll back upon No. 2, which rolls back upon No. 3, which rolls back upon No. 4, and so on, until No. 7 is heard to curse and swear, nearly a quarter of a mile behind. Black Driver (louder than before). "Pill!" Horses make another struggle to get up the bank, and again the coach rolls backward. Black Driver (louder than before). "Pe-e-e-illl" Horses make a desperate struggle. Black Driver (recovering spirits). "Hi, Jiddy, Jiddy, Pill!" Horses make another effort. Black Driver (with great vigour). "Ally Loo! Hi. Jiddy. Jiddy. Pill. Ally Loo!" Horses almost do it. Black Driver (with his eyes starting out of his head). "Lee, den. Lee, dere. Hi. Jiddy, Jiddy. Pill. Ally Loo. Lee-e-e-e-e!" They run up the bank, and go down again on the other side at a fearful pace. It is impossible to stop them, and at the bottom there is a deep hollow, full of water. The coach rolls frightfully. The insides scream. The mud and water fly about us. The black driver dances like a madman. Suddenly we are all right by some extraordinary means, and stop to breathe. A black friend of the black driver is sitting on a fence. The bh ,^ driver recognises him by twirling his head round and round like a harlequin, rolling his eyes, shrugging his shoulders, and grinning from ear to ear. He stops short, turns to me, and says: "We shall get you through sa, like a fiddle, and hope a please you when we get you through sa. Old 'ooman at home sa:" chuckling very much. "Outside gentleman sa, he often remember old 'ooman at home sa," grinning again. "Ay ay, we'll take care of the old woman. Don't be afraid." The black driver grins again, but there is another hole, and beyond that, another bank, close before us. So he stops short: cries (to the horses again) "Easy. Easy den. Ease. Steady. Hi. Jiddy. Pill. Ally. Loo," but never "Lee!" until we are reduced to the very last extremity, and are in the midst of difficulties, extrication from which appears to be all but impossible. And so we do the ten miles or thereabouts in two hours and a half; breaking no bones, though bruising a great many; and in short getting through the distance, "like a fiddle." whence there is a railway to Richmond. The tract of country through < !-■ .1. 110 American Notes which it takes its course was once productive; but the soil has been exhausted by the system of employing a great amount of slave labour in forcing crops, without strengthening the land; and it is now little better than a sandy desert overgrown with t-ees. Dreary and unin- teresting as its aspect is, I was glad to the heart to find anything on which one of the curses of this horrible institution has fallen; and had greater pleasure in contemplating the withered ground, than the richest and most thriving cultivation in the same place could possibly have afforded me. In this district, as in all others where slavery sits.broodmg, (I have frequently heard this admitted, even by those who are its warmest advocates:) there is an air of ruin and decay abroad, which is inseparable from the system. The bams and outhouses are moulder- ing away; the sheds are patched and half roofless; the log cabins (built in Virginia with external chimneys made of clay or wood) are squalid in the last degree. There is no look of decent comfort any- where. The miserable stations by the railway side; the great wild wood-yards, whence the engine is supplied with fuel; the negro children rolling on the ground before the cabin doors, with dogs and pigs; the biped beasts of burden sinking past: gloom and dejection are upon them all. In the negro car belonging to the train in which we made this journey, were a mother and her children who had just been pur- chased; the husband and father being left behind with their old owner. The children cried the whol ^ray, and the mother was misery's picture. The champion of Life, Liberty, and the Pursuit of Happi- ness, who had bought them, rode in the same train; and, every time we stopped, got down to see that they were safe. The black in Sin- bad's Travels with one eye in the middle of his forehead which shone like a burning coal, was nature's aristocrat compared with this white gentleman. It was between six and seven o'clock in the evening, when we drove to the hotel: in front of which, and on the top of the broad flight of steps leading to the door, two or three citizens were balancing themselves on rocking-chairs, and smoking cigars. We found it a very large and elegant establishment, and were as well entertained as travellers need desire to be. The cUmate being a thirsty one, there was never, at any hour of the day, a scarcity of 1 lungers in the spacious bar, or a cessation of the mixing of cool liquors: but they were a merrier people here, and had musical instruments playing to them o' nights, which it was a treat to hear again. The next day, and the next, we rode and walked about the town, which is delightfully situated on eight hills, overhanging James River; a sparkling stream, studded here and there with bright islands, or brawling over broken rocks. Although it was yet but the middle of March, the weather in this southern temperature was extremely warm; the peach-trees and magnolias were m full bloom; and the trees were green. In a low ground among the hills, is a valley known t which o and, lik< wild peo much. Theci shady le the hot constitu many pj lounge : volumes are all s] I saw drying, with, w£ suppose( the com; the oil-c to its CO Many necessar two o'cl at a tim hymn ir nieanwh forth inl said sev< the gent denly ti appeara On th twelve h althougl as that ] to enter very crc children believe who inh human ! viction. The J Defoe's day was and dooi which w Before t American Notes iii known as "Bloody Run," from a terrible conflict with the Indians which once occurred there. It is a good place for such a struggle, and, like every other spot I saw associated with any legend of 'hat wild people now so rapidly fading from the earth, interested me very much. The city is the seat of the local parliament of Virginia; and in its shady legislative halls, some orators were drowsily holding forth to the hot noon day. By dint of constant repetition, however, these constitutional sights had very little more interest for me than so many parochial vestries; and I was glad to exchange this one for a. lounge in a well-arranged public library of some ten thousand volumes, and a visit to a tobacco manufactory, where the workmen are all slaves. I saw in this place the whole process of picking, rolling, pressing, drying, packing in casks, and branding. All the tobacco thus dealt with, was in course of manufacture for chewing; and one would have supposed there was enough in that one storehouse to have filled even the comprehensive jaws of America. In this form, the weed looks like the oil-cake on which we fatten cattle; and even without reference to its consequences, is sufficiently uninviting. Many of the workmen appeared to be strong men, and it is hardly necessary to a Id that they were all labouring quietly, then. After two o'clock in the day, they are allowed to sing, a certain number at a time. The hour striking while I was there, some twenty sang a hymn in parts, and sang it by no means ill; pursuing their work meanwhile. A bell rang as I was about to leave, and they all poured forth into a building on the opposite side of the street to dinner. I said several times that I should like to see them at their meal; but as the gentleman to whom I mentioned this desire appeared to be sud- denly taken rather deaf, I did not pursue the request. Of their appearance I shall have something to say, presently. On the following day, I visited a plantation or farm, of about twelve hundred acres, on the opposite bank of the river. Here again, although I went down with the owner of the estate, to "the quarter," as that part of it in which the slaves live is called, I was not invited to enter into any of their huts. All I saw of them, was, that they were very crazy, wretched cabins, near to which groups of half-naked children basked in the sun, or wallowed on the dusty ground. But I believe that this gentleman is a considerate and excellent master, who inherited his fifty slaves, and is neither a buyer nor a seller of human stock; and I am sure, from my own observation and con- viction, that he is a kind-hearted, worthy man. The planter's house was an airy, rustic dwelling, that brought Defce's description of such places strongly to my recollection. The day was very warm, but the blinds being all closed, and the windows and doors set wide open, a shady coolness rustled through the rooms, which was exquisitely refreshing after the glare and heat without. Before the windows was an open piazza, where, in what they call tUo W V:' m 1 112 American Notes hot weather — ^whatever that may be — they sling hammocks, and drink and doze luxuriously. I do not know how their cool reflections may taste within the hammocks, but having experience, I can report that, cut of them, the mounds of ices and the bowls of mint- julep and sherry-cobbler they make in these latitudes, are refresh- ments never to be thought of afterwards, in summer, by those who would preserve contented minds. There are two bridges across the river: one belongs to the railroad, and the other, whk:h is a very crazy affair, is the private property of some old lady in the neighbourhood, who levies tolls upon the townspeople. Crossing this bridge, on my way back, I saw a notice painted on the gate, cautioning all persons to drive slowly: under a penalty, if the offender were a whice man, of five dollars; if a negro, fifteen stripes. The same deciv- and gloom that overhang the way by which it is approached, hover above the town of Richmond. TTiere are pretty villas and cheerful houses in its streets, and Nature smiles upon the country round; but jostling its handsome residences, like slavery itself going hand in hand with many lofty virtues, are deplorable tenements, fences unrepaired, walls crumblmg into ruinous heaps. Hinting gloomily at things below the surface, these, and many other tokens of the same description, force themselves upon the notice, and are remembered with depressing influence, when livelier features are forgotten. To those who are happily unaccustomed to them, .he countenances in the streets and labouring-places, too, are shocking. All men who know that there are laws against instructing slaves, of which the pains and penalties greatly exceed in their amount the fines imposed on those who maim and torture them, must be prepared to find their faces very low in the scale of intellectual expression. But the darkness — not of skin, but mind — which meets the stranger's eye at every turn; the brutalizing and blotting out of all fairer characters traced by Nature's hand; immeasurably outdo his worst belief. That travelled creation of the great satirist's brain, who fresh from living among horses, peered from a high casement down upon his own kind with trembling horror, was scarcely more repelled and daunted by the sight, than those who look upon some of these faces for the first time must surely be. I left the last of them behind me in the person of a wretched drudge, who, after running to and fro all day till midnight, and moping in his stealthy winks of sleep upon the stairs between whiles, was washing the dark passag3s at four o'clock in the morning; and went upon my way with a grateful heart that I was not doomed to live where slavery was, and had never had my senses blunted to its wrongs and horrors in a slave-rocked cradle. It had been my intention to proceed by James River and Chesa- peake Bay to Baltimore; but one of the steamboats being ausent from her station through some ac ^nt and the means of conveyance American Notes "3 being consequently rendered uncertain, we returned to Washington by the way we had come (there were two constables on board the steamboat, in pursuit of runaway slaves), and h 'ting there again for one night, went on to Baltimore next afternoon. The most comfortable of all the hotels of which I had any experi- ence in the United States, and they were not a few, is Bamum's, in that city: where the English traveller will find curtains to his bed, for the first and probably the last time in America (this is a disinterested remark, for I never use them); and where he will be likely to have enough water for washing himself, which is not at all a common case. This capital of the state of Maryland is a bustling, busy town, with a great deal of traffic of various kinds, and in particular of water commerce. That portion of the town which it most favours is none of the cleanest, it is true; but the upper part is of a very different character, and has many agreeable streets and public buildings. The Washington Monument, which is a handsome pillar with a statue on its summit; the Medical College; and the Battle Monument in memory of an engagement with the British at North Point; are the most conspicuous among them. There is a very good prison in this city, and the State Penitentiary is also among its institutions. In this latter establishment there were two curious cases. One was that of a young man, who had been tried for the murder of his father. The evidence was entirely circumstantial, and was very conflicting and doubtful; nor was it possible to assign any motive which could have tempted him to the commission of so tremendous a crime. He had been tried twice; and on the second occasion the jury felt so much hesitation in convicting him, that they found a verdict of manslaughter, or murder in the second degree; which it could not possibly be, as there had, beyond all doubt, been no quarrel or provocation, and if he were guilty at all, he was unquestionably guilty of murder ir its broadest and worst signification. The remarkable feature in the case was, that if the unfortunate deceased were not really murdered by this own son of his he must have been murdered by his own brother. The evidence lay in a most remarkable manner, between those two. On all the suspicious points, the dead man's brother was the witness: all the explanations for the prisoner (some of them extremely plausible) went, by construction and inference, to inculcate him as plotting to fix the guilt upon his nephew. It must have been one of them; and the jury had to decide between two sets of suspicions, almost equally unnatural, unac- countable, and strange. The other case, was that of a man who once went to a certain distiller's and stole a copper measure containing a quantity ox liquor. He was pursued and taken with the property in his possession, and was sentenced to two years' imprisonment. On coming out of the jail. a,(. thu CXpliu.i.IUIi Ui. thut tcXUI, he WCXxt bu^K LU (.lie oUUiU Ulci- 1; I I tiller's, and stole the same copper measure containing the same wi»«tta mtf.wB Bfeiiaft« 114 American Notes ilii M quantity of liquor. There was not the slightest reason to suppose that the man wished to return to prison: indeed ever>'thing, but the com- mission of the offence, made directly against that assumption. There aie only two ways of accounting for this extraordmary proceed- ing One is. that after undergoing so much for this copper measure he conceived he had established a sort of claim and right to it. The other that, by dint of long thinking about, it had become a mono- mania with him. and had acquired a fascination which he found it impossible to resist; swelling from an Earthly Coppei Gallon into an Ethereal Golden Vat. . After remaining here a couple of days I bound myself to a ngid adherence to the plan I had laid down so recently, and resolved to set forward on our western journev without any more delay. Accord- ingly having reduced the luggage within the smallest possible com- pass (by sending back to New York, to be afterwards forwarded to us in Canada, so much of it as was not absolutely wanted); and having procured the necessary credentials to banking-houses on the way; and having moreover looked for two evenings at the setting sun, with as well-def.ned an idea of thf country before us as if we had been going to travel into the very centre of that planet; we left Baltimore by another railway at half-past eight in the morning, and reached the town of York, some sixty miles off. by the early dinner-time of the Hotel which was the starting-place .. the four-horse coach, wherein we were to proceed to Harrisbufg. This conveyance, the box of which I was fortunate enough to secure, had come down to meet us at the railroad station, and was as muddy and cumbersome as usual. As more passengers were waiting for us at the inn-door, the coachman observed under his breath, in the usual self-communicative voice, looking the wh^e at his mouldy harness as if it were to that he was addressing himself, "I expect we shall want /Ae fcig- coach." , , . v- I could not help wondering within myself what the size of this big coach might be. and how many persons it might be designed to hold; for the vehicle which was too small for our purpose was something larger than two English heavy night coaches, and might have been the twin-brother of a French Diligence. My speculations were speedily at rest however, for as soon as we had dined, there came rumbling up the street, shaking its sides like a corpulent giant, a kind of barge on wheels. After much blundering and backing, it stopped at tae door: rolling heavily from side to side when its other motion had ceased, as if it had taken cold in its damp stable, and between that, and the having been required in its dropsical old age to move at any faster pace than a walk, were distressed by shortness of wind. "If here ain't the Harrisburg mail at last, and dreadful bright and smart to look at too. " cried an elderly gentleman in some excitement, "dam mv mother!" * I don't know what the sensation of being darned may be, or whether a man's mother has a keener relish or disrelish of the process American Notes 115 than anybody else; but if the endurance of this mysterious ceremony by the old lady in question had depended on the accuracy of her son's vision in respect to the abstract brightness and smartness of tho Harrisburg mail, she would certainly have undergone its infliction. However, they booked twelve people inside; and the luggage (including such trifles as a large rocking-chair, and a good-sized (lining-table) being at length made fast upon the roof, we started off in great state. At the door of another hotel, there was another passenger to be taken up. "Any room, sir?" cries the new passenger to the coachman. "Well, there's room enough," replies the coachman, without getting down, or even looking at him. "There an't no room at all, sir," bawls a gentleman inside. Which another gentleman (also inside) confirms, by predicting that tho attempt to introduce any more passengers ' v/on't fit nohow." The new passenger, without any expression of anxiety, lool.s into the coach, and then looks up at the coachman: "Now, how do you mean to fix it?" says he, after a pause: 'for I must go." The corchman employs himself in twisting the lash of his whip into a knot, and takes no more notice of the question: clearly signi- fying that it is anybody's business but his, and that the passengers would do well to fix it, among themselves. In this state of things, matters seem to be approximating to a fix of another kind, when another inside passenger in a corner, who is nearly suffocated, cries faintly, "I'll get out." This is no matter of relief or self-congratulation to the driver, for his immovable philosophy is perfectly undisturbed by anything that happens in the coach. Of all things in the world, the coach would seem to be the very last upon his mind. The exchange is made, however, and then the passenger who has given up his seat makes a third upon the box, seating himself in what he calls the middle; that is, with half his person on my legs, and the other half on the driver's. "Go a-head, cap'en," cries the colonel, who directs. "G6-lang!" cries the cap'en to his company, the horses, and away we go. We took up at a rural bar-room, after we had gone a few miles, an intoxicated gentleman who climbed upon the roof among the lug- gage, and subsequently slipping off without hurting himself, was seen in the distant perspective reeling back to the grog-shop where we had found him. We also parted with more of our freight at diffe; ~nt times, so that when we came to change horses, I was again alone outside. The coachmen always change with the horses, and are usually as dirty as the coach. The first was dressed like very shabby English baker; the second like a Russian peasant: for he wore a loose purple camlet robe, with a fur collar, tied round his waist with a paxti- coloured worsted sash; grey trousers; light blue gloves: and a cap of i 1 i'" ii6 American Notes %<j lii bearskin. It had by this time come on to rain verj' heavily, and there was a cold damp mist besides, which penetrated to the skin. I was Rlad to take advantage of a stoppage and get down to stretch my legs, shake the water off my great-coat, and swallov/ the usual anti- temperance recipe for keeping out the cold. When I mounted to my seat again, I observed a new parcel lying on the coach roof, which I took to be a rather large fiddle in a brown bag. In the course of a few miles, however, I discovered t^hat it had a glazed ccip at one end and a pair of muddy shoes at the other; and further observation demonstrated it to be a small boy in a snuff- coloured coat, with his arms pinioned to his sides, by deep forcing into his pockets. He was, I presume, a relative or friend of the coach- man's, as he lay a-top of the luggage with his face towards the rain; and except when a change of position brought his shoes in contact with my hat, he appeared to be asleep. At last, on some occasion of our stopping, this thing slowly upreared itself to the height of three feet six, and fixing its eyes on me, observed in piping accents, with a complaisant yawn, half quenched in an obliging air of friendly patronage, "Well now, stranger, I guess you find this a'most like an English arternoon, hey?" The scenery which had been tame enough at first, was, for the last ten or twelve miles, beatitiful. Our road wound through the pleasant valley of the Susquehanna; the river, dotted with innumerable green islands, lay upon our right; and on the left, a steep ascent, craggy with broken rock, and dark with pine trees. The mist, wreathing itself into a hundred fantastic shapes, moved solemnly upon the water; and the gloom of evening gave to all an air of mystery and silence which greatly enhanced its natural interest. We crossed this river by a wooden bridge, roofed and covered in on all sides, and nearly a mile in length. It was profoundly dark; perplexed, with great beams, crossing and recrossing it at every possible angle; and through the broad chinks and crevices in the floor, the rapid river gleamed, far down beiow, like a legion of eyes. We had no lamps; and as the horses stumbled and floundered through this place, towards the distant speck of dying light, it seemed interminable. I really could not at first persuade myself as we rumbled heavily on, filling the bridge with hollow noises, and I held down my head to save it from the rafters above, but that I was in a painful dream; for I have often dreamed of toiling through such places, and as often argued, even at the time, "this cannot be reality." At lengi , however, we emerged upon the streets of Harrisburg, whose feeble lights, reflected aismally from the wet ground, did not shine out upon a very cheerful city. We were soon established in a snug hotel, which though smaller and far less splendid than many we put up at, is raised above them all in my remembrance, by having for its landlord the most obliging, considerate, and gentlemanly person I ever had to deal with. d u ily, and there le skin. I was to stretch my he usual anti- V parcel lying lie in a brown :d that it had he other; and )y in a snuff- deep forcing of the coach - ards the rain; )es in contact le occasion of eight of three accents, with ir of friendly I'most like an IS, for the last I the pleasant nerable green t, craggy with ing itself into ^ater; and the silence which id covered in oundly dark; J it at every ;s in the floor, I of eyes. "We ered through t, it seemed lyself as we 55, and I held at I was in a ihrough such is cannot be : Harrisburg, ►und, did not ablished in a lan many we e, by having gentlemanly American Notes u^ .^u^^ were not to proceed upon our journey until the afternoon. I walked out after breakfast the next morning, to look about m^ai d was duly shown a model prison on the solitary system, just ereited and as yet without an inmate; the trunk ofan old ^e toThkh h!f«^;'' T^- " ^* ^"^^1^1 ^^'^ (afterwards buried under it), was tied by hostile Indians, with his funeral pile about him, when L was saved the river S Kf ^"?f ^ ^ ^?^°^5 P^'^^ °" ^« °PI««»^^« «hore oi tne river, the local legislature for there was another of those bodies here again, m full debate); and the other curiosities of the town •nnr^r^rn.^^*™"''^. interested in looking over a number of treaties u%.Jl^- ^'""f.u^ *'°'® "^'^^ *^® P°^' Indians, signed by the imZni fu'^^V^ *^.^ P'^"^^ °^ ^^^'' ratification, and preserved in the office of the Secretary to the Commonwealth. These signatures, traced of course by their own hands, are rough drawings of the creatures or weapons they were called after. Thus, the Great Turtle Iw.^'k ' ^^«^ked pen-and-ink outline of a great turtle; the Buffalo sketches a buffalo; the War Hatchet sets a rough image of that weapon for his mark. So with the Arrow, the Fish, the Scalp, the Big Canoe, nd all of them. ^ ** Jj°!^}^ "°^^u"* think-as I looked at these feeble and tremulous productions of hands which could draw the longest arrow to the head in a .tout elk-horn bow, or split a bead or feather with a rifle-ball^-of Crabbe s musiags over the Parish Register, -^nd the irregular scratches made with a pen. by men who wo; , olough aTengthv or'iT/wK^^* u?"" *^"^ *° ^°^- ^°' ^°"^d I aelp bestowing r^any sorrowful thoughts upon the simple warrior, whose hands and hearts were set there, m all truth and honesty, and who only learned in course of time from white men how to break their fith^ ?r".dnln„?« x'"'^" and bonds. I wonder, too. how many times the frt^^!Z ?l^"'*^^'.°f *^^'*^"S ^-^"^« Hatchet, had put his mark to treaties which were falsely read to him; and had signed away he knew not what, until it went and cast him loose upon the^Aew possessors of the land, a savage indeed. n^?!."!! ?''-\^?''°"u^!'^' ^^^""^^ ^^'^ ^^^^y ^^"^e^' that some members of the legislative body proposed to do us the honour of calling He had kindly yielded up to us his wife's own little parlour and when 1 begged that he would show them in. I saw him look with painful apprehension at its pretty carpet; though, being otherwise occupied at the time, the cause of his uneasiness did not occur to me. Jri ^^rtffly would have been more pleasant to all parties concerned, and would not. I thmk. have compromised their independence in any material degree, if some of these gentlemen had not only yielded to the prejudice m favour of spittoons, but had -.bandoned themselves handkerc^°eTs^°*' ^""^"^ *° *^^ conventional absurdity of pocket- It still continued to rain heavily, and when we went down to the L.anai tsoat (for that was the mode of convev.anrf* hv whif'h '-- "--^- to proceed) after dinner, the weather w^'as uiipr^^ng '^d M. i t^ '■ f I Ii5 American Notes I; nil obstinately wet as one would desire to see. Nor was the sight of this canal boat, in which we were to spend three or four days, by any means a cheerful one; as it involved some uneasy speculations concerning the disposal of the passengers at night, and opened a wide field of inquiry touching the other domestic arrangements of the ertablishment, which was sufficiently disconcerting. However, there it was — a barge with a little house in it, viewed from the outside; and a caravan at a fair, viewed from within: the gentlemen being accommodated, as the spectators usually are, in one of those locomotive museums of .penny wonders; and the ladies being partitioned off by a red curtain, after the manner of the dwarfs and giants in the same establishments, whose private lives are passed in rather close exclusiveness. We sat here, looking silently at the row of little tables, which extended down both sides of the cabin, and listening to the rain as it dripped and pattered on the boat, and plashed with a dismal mem- ment in the water, until the arrival of the railway train, for whose final contribution to our stock of passengers, our departure was alone deferred. It brought a great many boxes, which were bumped and tossed upon the roof, almost as painfully as if they had been deposited on one's own head, without the intervention of a porter's knot; and several damp gentlemen, whose clothes, on their drawing round the stove, began to steam again. No doubt it would have been a thought more comfortable if the driving rain, which now poured down more soakingly than ever, had admitted of a window being opened, or if our number had been something less than thirty; but there was scarcely time to think as much, when a train of three horses v/as attached to the tow-rope, the boy upon the leader smacked his whip, the i adder creaked and groaned complainingly, and we had begun our journey. CHAPTER X. SOME FURTHER ACCOUNT OF THE CANAL BOAT, ITS DOMESTIC ECON- OMY, AND ITS PASSENGERS, JOURNEY TO PITTSBURG ACROSS THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS. PITTSBURG. As it continued to rain most perseveringly, we all remained below: the damp gentlemen round the stove, gradually becoming mildewed by the action of the fire; and the dry gentlemen lying at full length upon the seats, or slumbering uneasily with their faces on the tables, or walking up and down the cabin, which it was barely possible for a man of the middle height to do, without making bald places on his head by scraping it against the roof. At about six o'clock, all the small tables were put together to form one long table, and every- body sai steaks, p "Will potatoes fixings?" There word "fij call upor that he i which yc board a s ready soc below, tl cloth. Yo not to be indisposil who will ' One nij was stayi the table "fixed pr overheari sented hii that, fixinj There i tendered of somew] bladed kn than I eve skilful jug omitted a comfort. I rambles ii rudeness. By the worn itsel: it became standing i1 by the lug tarpaulin < became a s the canal. duck nimb "Bridge!" down near] were so mj this. As night ht of this 3, by any iculations opened a ments of t, viewed ithin: the re, in one lies being varfs and passed in 3S, which rain as it lal meiTi- 'or whose ture was ! bumped had been I porter's ■ drawing lave been w poured ow being lirty; but of three le leader iainingly, IC ECON- ROSS THE !d below: nildewed ill length le tables, ible for a es on his :, all the id every- American Notes 119 body sat down to tea, coffee, bread, butter, salmon, shad liver steaks potatoes, pickles, ham, chops, black-puddings, ind saisages nnf^Yoic^K" l'^' '^^^ ""^ ^PP^'^^^ neighbour, handiAg me a dish oi fixings?" "^ '" "^'^^ ^^^ ^"""'' "^"^ y°" ^^ «^«^^ of these ^Jrd^'L^'M^^.^''r^^^ u^.""^ P^^^°"" ""^^ ^^^iO"S duties as this word fix. It IS the Caleb Quotem of the American vocabulary You call upon a gentleman ma country town, and his help informs you that he IS fixmg nimself" ust now, but will be down direcTlv-T which you are to understand that he is dressing. You inquire' on board a steamboat, of a fellow-passenger, whether breakfast wfl'l be ready soon, and he tells you he should think so, for when he w^ las? below, they were "fixing the tables:" in other words! lay W the cloth. You beg a porter to collect your luggage, and he entr Jatlvon not to be uneasy, for he'll "fix it presently?' 'lAd?fyouco^^^^^^^^ '::^^&^J^^:^ '^ ^^- — ^^ ^-t- So^Lnd^o One night. I ordered a bottle of mulled wine at an hotel where I r/ilT""^;^"^ "^^''^"^ ^ 1^^^ *^°^^ ^^' i*' ^t ^^"gth it was put upon he table with an apology from the landlord that he feared it wasn't fixed properly." And I recollect once, at a stage-coach dTnner overhearing a very stern gentleman demand of a waiter who pri sented him with a plate of underdone roast-beef, "whether he callfS thai, fixing God A'mighty's vittles?" wnetner he called There is no doubt that the meal, at which the invitation was tendered to me which has occasioned this digression, w^dTspoIed somewhat ravenously; and that the gentlemen thrust the Sold- bladed knives and the two-pronged forks further down their throats than I ever saw the same weapons go before, except in the hands of a Skilful juggler: but no man sat down until the ladies were seated or cTmfort Sd dr^' °' P°''''"^^^ "^^^^ ^^"^^ contribute ?othe'r r.^w!c* A ? ^"'^'^ ''''^^' '''' ^"y occasion, anywhere, during my rambles in America, see a woman exposed to the slightest act of rudeness, incivility, or even inattention. ° By the time the meal was over, the rain, which seemed to have worn Itself out by coming down so fast, was nearly over too and t became feasible to go on deck: which was a great relief. no?Wuh- standing its being a very small deck, and being rendered st 11 smlller ta^rnanl n ^^^^'' ""^i"^ ^^' ^"^^"^ ^^^ethcr in the middle u^er a arpdulin covering; leavmg. on either side, a path so narrow that it became a science to walk to and fro without tumbling overboard ?nto the canal It was somewhat embarrassing at first. .00. to have to 'Brti".H '' J 7""'' ^:' ""^""'u"' ^^^^"^^^^ '^'^ "^^" ^t tt^. helm cried Bridge! and sc etimes. when the cry was "Low Bridge " to lie down nearly flat. But custom familiarises one to anything lid there were so many bridges that it took a very short time to get used to As night came on, and we drew in sight of the first range of hills. 120 American Notes lii'l ■ii m which are the outposts of the Alleghany Mountains, the scenery, which had been uninteresting hitherto, became more bold and striking. The wet ground reeked and smoked, after the heavy fall of rain; and the croaking of the frogs (whose noise in these parts is almost incredible) sounded as though a million of fairy teams with bells were travelling through the air, and keeping pace with us. The night was cloudy yet, but moonlight too: and when we crossed the Susquehanna river — over which there is an extraordinary wooden bridge with two galleries, one above the other, so that even there, two boat teams meeting, may pass without confusion — it was wild and grand. I have mentioned my having been in some uncertainty and doubt, at first, relative to the sleeping arrangements on board this boat. I remained in the same vague state of mind until ten o'clock or thereabouts, ^vilen going below, I found suspended on either side of the cabin, three long tiers of hanging book-shelves, designed appar- ently for volumes of the small octavo size. Looking with greater attention at these contrivances (wondering to find such literary preparations in such a place), I descried on each shelf a sort of microscopic sheet and blanket; then I began dimly to comprehend that the passengers were the library, and that they were to be arranged edge-wise, on these shelves, till morning. I was assisted to this conclusion by seeing some of them gathered round the master of the boat, at one of the tables, drawing lots with all the anxieties and passions of gamesters depicted in their counte- nances; while others, with small pieces of cardboard in their hands, were groping among the shelves in search of numbers corresponding with those they had drawn. As soon as any gentleman found his number, he took possession of ?t by immediately undressing himself and crawling into bed. The rapidity with which an agitated gambler subsided into a snoring slumberer, was one of the most singular effects I have ever witnessed. As to the ladies, they were already abed, behind the red curtain, which was carefully drawn and pinned up the centre; though as every cough, or sneeze, or whisper, behind this curtain, was perfectly audible before it, we had still a lively consciousness of their society . *■ The politeness of the person in authority had secured to me a shelf in a nook near this red curtain, in some degree removed from the great body of sleepers: to which place I retired, with many acknow- ledgments to him for his attention. I found it, on after-measurement, just the width of an ordinary sheet of Bath post letter-paper; and I was at first in some uncertainty as to the best means of getting into it. But the shelf being a bottom one, I finally determined on lying upon the floor, rolling gently in, stojpping immediately I touched the mattress, and remaining for the night with that side uppermost, whatever it might be. Luckily, I came upon my back at exactly the right moment. I was much alarmed on looking upward, to see. by the shape of his half-yard of sacking (which his weight had bent into an . xeedir me, who could nc event of again wi ladies; a upon th< One o reference they car all; or t] mingling canal, th coat, bei gentleme Theory c on the c conditioi Betwe of us wen down; wl rusty stc with the liberal alj was a tin thought i weakness z tin basi hanging i vicinity c hair-brus: At eigl: the table bread, bi chops, blc of compoi As each j coffee, br ham, choj When ev( cleared av of a barbi while the Dinner wj and breali There v face pnri ! scenery, 3old and vy fall of ! parts is ims with 1 us. The Dssed the ^ wooden en there, was wild id doubt, s boat. I 'clock or sr side of id appar- 1 greater literary 1 sort of iprehend re to be gathered lots with r counte- ir hands, sponding ound his ^ himself gambler singular : already d pinned *, behind a lively le a shelf from the acknow- irement, 2r; and I ting into on lying ched the permost, Lctly the e. by the t into an American Notes 121 - xeedingly tight bag), that there was a very heavy gentleman above me whom the slender cords seemed quite incapable of holding; and I could not help reflectmg upon the grief of my wife and family in the event of his commg down in the night. But as I could not have got up agam without a severe bodily struggle, which might have alarmed the ladies; and as I had nowhere to go to, even if I had; I shut my eves upon the danger, and remained there. One of two remarkable circumstances is indisputably a fact with reference to tha. class of society who travel in these boats. Either they carry their restlessness to such a pitch that they never sleep at all; or they expectorate in dreams, which would be a remarkable mingling of the real and ideal. All night long, and every night, on this canal, there was a perfect storm and tempest of spitting; and once mv coat being in the very centre of the hurricane sustained by five gentlemen (which moved vertically, strictly carrying out Reids Theory of the Law of Storms), I was fain the next morning to lay it on the deck, and rub it down with fair water before it was in a condition to be worn again. Between five and six o'clock in the morning we got up and some of us went on deck, to give them an opportunity of taking the shelves aown; while others the morning being very cold, crowded round the rusty stove, cherishing the newly kindled fire, and filling the grate with those voluntary contributions of which they had been so hberal all night. The washing accommodations were primitive There was a tin ladle chained to the deck, with which every gentleman who thought it necessary to cleanse himself (many were superior to this weakness), fished the dirty water out of the canal, and poured it into 2 tin basm. secured in like manner. There was also a jack-towel And hanging up before a little looking-glass in the bar. in the immediate hS^brus'h ^^^^^^ ^""^ biscuits, were a public comb and ^u^i ^l^^^ o'clock, the shelves being taken down and put away and the tables joined together, everybody sat down to the tea. coffee bread, butter, salmon, shad, liver, steak, potatoes, pickles, ham' chops, black-puddings, and sausages, all over again. Some were fond of compounding this variety, and having it all on their plates at once As each gentleman got through his own personal amount of tea' coffee, bread butter, salmon, shad, liver, steak, potatoes, pickles' ham, chops, black-puddings, and sausages, he rose up and walked off' When everybody had done with everything, the fragments were of'f btl^J^Lr"^ T °f the waiters-appearing anew in the character Of a barber, shaved such of the company as desired to be shaved- while the remainder looked on. or yawned over their newspapers! Dhmer was breakfast again, without the tea and coffee; and supper and breakfast were identical. s-upper tJ^^'^^7'^ ^ ""^"^ ^"^ ^°^^^ *h^s boat, with a light fresh-coloured f,-.;AVIii";: - i--^-t-— "--^<xxt oait yx wudico, wno was the most inquisi- tive fellow that can possibly be imagined. He never spoke otherwise ■ .K tf I M |i,f I ^ 122 American Notes than interrogatively. He was an embodied inquiry. Sitting down or standing up. still or moving, walking the deck or taking his meals, there he was, with a great note of interrogation in each eye, two in his cocked ears, two more in his turned-up nose and chin, at least half a dozen more about the corners of his mouth, and the largest one of all in his hair, which was brushed pertly off his forehead in a flaxen clump. Every button in his clothes said, "Eh? What's that? Did you speak? Say that again, will you?" He was always wide awake, like the enchanted bride who drove her husband frantic; always restless; always thirsting for answers; perpetually seeking and never finding! There never was such a curious man. I wore a fur great-coat at that time, and before we were well clear of the wharf, he questioned me concerning it, and its price, and where I bought it, and when, and what fur it was, and what it weighed, ?,nd what it cost. Then he took notice of my watch, and asked me what that cost, and whether it was a French watch, and where I got it, and how I got it, and whether I bought it or had it given me, and how it went, and where the key-hole was, and when I wound it, every night or every morning, and whether I ever forgot to wind it at all, and if I did, what then? Where had I been to last, and where was I going next, and where was I going after that, and haci I seen the President, and what did he say, and what did I say, and what did he say when I had said that? Eh? Lor now ! do tell ! Finding that nothing would satisfy him, I evaded his questions after the first score or two, and in particular pleaded ignorance respecting the name of the fur whereof the coat was made. I am unable to say whether this was the reason, but that coat fascinated him afterwards; he usually kept close behind me as 1 walked, and moved as I moved, that he might look at it the better; and he frequently dived into narrow places after me at the risk of his life, that he might have the satisfaction of passing his hand up the back, and rubbing it the wrong way. We had another odd specimen on board, of a different kind. This was a thin-faced, spare-figured man of middle age and stature, dressed in a dusty drabbish-coloured suit, such as I^never saw before. He was perfectly quiet during the first part of the journey: indeed I don't remember having so much as seen him until he was brought out by circumstances, as great men often are. The conjunction of events which made him famous, happened, briefly, thus. The canal extends to the foot of the mountain, and there, of course, it stops; the passengers being conveyed across it by land carriage, and taken on afterwards by another canal boat, the counter- part of the first, which awaits them on the other side. There are two canal lines of passage-boats; one is called The Express, and one (a cheaper one) The Pioneer. The Pioneer gets first to the mountain, and waits for the Express people to come up; both sets of passengers being Gonveved across it at the same f imf W^f* *vf»rf* fhf* 'c'-vr'.rr»cc r'—.rrt— .■sr-.-ir- but when we had crossed the mountain, and had come to the second boat, th( into it ] accessioi the pros people d whole fr( At home I held n: people o: anybodj "This very wel suit my i Now! I 'I the sun s / live, th Cake. Th Rather, glad of ii company 'em, / ar little too sentence: himself a turning I It is in the word sengers Ic boat was be coaxe( When bold to ! prospects (waving ] "No you you may, Cakes cai from the 1 He was u there is a services: i rest of th except sil of the buj Pittsburg steps, an( of the Mi! down or is meals, e, two in at least rgest one I a flaxen Did you ake, like restless; ■ finding. irell clear ice, and what it tch, and tch, and )r had it i when I forgot to last, and id had I say, and ! uestions [norance le. I am scinated ced, and jquently le might rubbing nd. This , dressed , He was I don't b out by f events here, of by land :ounter- are two i one (a ain, and !rs being s second American Notes 123 boat, the proprietors took it into their heads to draft all the Pioneers mto It likewise, so that we were five-and-forty at least and the accession of passengers was not at all of that kind which improved the prospect of sleeping at night. Our people grumbled at this as people do in such cases; but suffered ^he boat to be towed off with the whole freight aboard nevertheless; and away we went down the canal. At home, I should have protested lustily, but being a foreigner here* I held my peace. Not so this passenger. He cleft a path among the people on deck (we were nearly all on deck), and without addressing anybody whomsoever, soliloquised as follows; "This may suit:voM, this may. but it don't suit me. 1 j m.:^y be all very well with Down Easters, and men of Boston raising, but it won't suit my figure nohow; and no two ways about that: and so I tell you Now! I'm from the brown forests of the Mississippi, / am, and when the sun shines on me, it does shine — a little. It don't glimmer where / live, the sun don't. No. I'm a brown forester. I am. I an't a Johnny Cake. There are no smooth skins where I live. We're rough men there. Rather. If Down Easters and men of Boston raising like this, I'm glad of it, but I'm none of that raising nor of that breed. No.'This company wants a little fixing, it does. I'm the wrong sort of man for 'em, / am. They won't hke me, they won't. This is piling of it up a httle too mountainoiis, this is." At the end of every one of these short sentences he turned upon his heel, and walked the other way checkin<» himself abruptly when he had finished another short sentence and turning back again. It is impossible for me to say what terrific meaning was hidden in the words of this brown forester, but I know that the other pas- sengers looked on in a sort of admiring horror, and that presently the boat was put back to the wharf, and as many of the Pioneers as could be coaxed or bullied into going away, were got rid of. When we started again, some of the boldest spirits on board, made bold to say to the obvious occasion of this improvement in our prospects, "Much obliged to you, sir;" whcreunto the brown forester (waving his hand, and still walking up and down as before), replied "No you an't. You're none o' my raising. You may act for yourselves' you may. I have pinted out the way. Down Easters and Johnny Cakes can follow if they please. I an't a Johnny Cake. / an't. I am from the brown forests of the Mississippi, / am"— and so on as before He was unanimously voted one of the tables fo^- his bed at night- there IS a great contest for the tables— in consid. ation for his public services: and he had the warmest corner by the stove throughout the rest of the journey. But I never could find out that he did anything except sit there; nor did I hear him speak again until, in the midst of the bustle and turmoil of getting the luggage ashore in the dark at Pittsburg, I stumbled over him as he sat smoking a cigar on the cabin steps, and heard him muttering to himself, with a short laugh of •^•wiiaiiv-w, i dii i, a juiiiiuy v-.aK:e, i an t. i'ai iroiii the brown forests of the Mississippi, / am, damme 1" I am inclined to argue from this. ! I ■i I 124 American Notes AnH \ ^^ Of Game, not mentioned in the Bill of Fare And yet despite these oddities— and even thev hpHfnV r«o ^ least, a humour of their own-there was mnrh^ii^+K- ^® ""^ looking through, rather than at, the deep blue skv- the ^Udi^l ^l^i night, so noiselessly, past frownine hills snnlnSu^ T ? ^ °" ^* hmp5d^„pp,.ng of the water as the boat went'^n* aU thesf we'^pur: a.r without the door, whereon was rangS the household storeTn^ hard to count, of earthen iars anrf r„^t? -ri, """^""O'" store, not the st„n,ps of great trees tSrst^e™' in te^'fiddoTwhl^^^ '1 StTeftirn^f aVdl^s'teTr^ f' ^".Sa^sf wfth^S^^^dred water It wi Quite Jr/nH ''^^"<=''«^ stopped in its unwholesome where;s^ttTe?srr4trrnT„rr„%tri"?l" S'^i*. *-^^ wounaeu bodies lay about, like those of mura^^ed creatures: ;hre seeme< had cc out th( new cc Wei at the i ten inc are dra of stati travers as the c verge o travelle into the howeve precaut Itwa; of the r light ar scattere bark, w] homewa upward on at th we ridinj too, whe other mc see the ( like a gr( that if it have had short of ij and, befc the passe the road On the the banks tion of thi place — a stranger t chamber f 01 buildinj water, wh( American Notes times, at nighi. the wa^lund thro^^^^^^ ?" ""1' ^°' ^°"^«- mountain pass in ScotlaL Snl aXniT^ f^T^V 8^°"«^' ^'^^ ^ of the moon, and so closed in by h"|hsteeS-"^ '''" ^'^^' seemed to be no egress save through ^1^,? ^" '■°""'*' *^^* *^ere had come, until one rugged hnSet^^^^^ ^y ^^ich we out the moonlight as we^ssed in o its gSoml^'thfo "^ ^"^ '"^""^"^ new course in shade and darkness ^^^^"'y th^at. wrapped our at fh: t't ol^^e'^un^^^^^^^ Sis^^cro'^^H^?^^ "^^^"^^ - ^-ved ten inclined planes; five asce^^inl .n^^^^^ ^^ ''^"^°^^- There are are dragged up the former and let slotfv "/'""^k^^?^' *^^ ^^"^^ges of stationary Ingines; the compISttel^^^Ieve^^^^^^ 'T/' ^^ "^^ '"« traversed, sometimes by hor?e and Ini Jf ^ T between, being as the case demands Occa4nalivth^r!.T '"I^^.^y ^"^^"« Po^er! verge of a giddy precipice! aSk^n/from^^^^ ^^'"^ "P^" '^" «^^^«"^« traveller gazes sheer down without a ftn^^^^ ""^"'f^^ ^^"^°^' ^^e into the mountain depths bdowTht io?,rnf '""'^^ °^ ^^"^^ ^^*^««"' however; only two clTrLsesTr^t^Uil^^^^^^ precautions a^e taken. isTot toTe .^^fadTfor^V "h^ ^^"^ P^^P^^ It was very prettvtravpllinc,fi,!;o ^l^^^^^. for its dangers, of the mountain Keef S to lL\'T^ P^"" ^^^"^ *^^ ^^^^^^ light and softness; cSinT glimpses th^^ i^^^^^ scattered cabins; children runnS^tn f hi h "^? ^^® tree-tops. of bark, whom we could see wXut hS^^^^ ^"^«*^"g ^"^ to homewards; families sitting out in the r^r',,!?^ ^5 P'^' scampering upward with a stupid indifference men In^^ • ^l"""^^""' ^°^« g^«"g on at their unfinished W^ pTan^n^ on. ?' '^'"^-'^"^^^^ ^o«ki"g we riding onward, high above ihemhkf.whT'"°7°T^'' ^°^k' ^"^ too, when we had dined and rat^;i.f/ ''"^r^''^- 1* was amusing other moving power ?Sk the we ^ht of^^^^ ^ P P^''' ^^^^"^ ^^° see the engine released lonffTfSr n. ? ^^"^ges themselves, to like a great insect, its bkck o^f ^reen fn/°"i? ^'"^^ "^ ^°^^ ^^0"^' that if it had spread a pair of Ss ."h .^"^^^^ '^^"^"^ ^" ^^^ ^un have had occasion. aslfandS forthe?.-f ^'^^^' "° °"^ ^^^^^ short of us in a very businS hkl ^. least surprise. But it stopped and. before we lef t^ the Srt 4ntT/n'/^ the passengers whohadwS our iritpl?.^.^^^ ^^'^ ^'^^ ^S^^"' ^^^^ the road by which we hld^come *^^ ""^^"^ °^ *^^^^^sing the^bVnt ofThtcVnirwf^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^.-^ hammers on tion of this part of our ^rnev Aftlrl approached the termina- Place~a long aqueS ISs fhe IX^'^'^'^i^-^^^^^^^^^^^n^y stranger than the bridge at Harrisburth^ ^'^^'■' ^^^^^ ^^ chamberfullofwater^i'eemVr^'n'i^^^^^^ i<^w> wooden oi Duiidings and crazy galleries and 'st^frT''"^-^''"?''''''^"^*^^^^^ water, whether it be rive? sea canS nr^^f k ? ^^"^^^^ ^^"^^ «» iver, sea. canal, or ditch; and were at Pittsburg ± 126 American Notes II 'I i. Pittsburg is like Birmingham in England, at least its townspeople say so. Setting anide the streets, the shops, the houses, waggons, factories, public buildings, and population, perhaps it may be. It certainly has a great quantity of smoke hanging about it, and is famous for its iron-works. Besides the prison to which I have already referred, this town contains a pretty arsenal and other institutions. It is very beautifully situated on the Alleghany River, over which there are two bridges; and the villas of the wealthier citizens sprinkled about the high grounds in the neighbourhood, are pretty enough. We lodged at a most excellent hotel, and were admirably served. As usual it was full of boarders, was very large, and had a broad colonnade to every story of the house. We tarried here three days. Our next point was Cincinnati: and as this was a steamboat journey, and western steamboats usually blow up one or two a week in the season, it was advisable to collect opinions in reference to the comparative safety of the vessel bound that way, then lying in the river. One called the Messenger was the best recom- mended. Sb" had been advertised to start positively, every day for a fortnight or so, and had not gone yet, nor did her captain seem to have any very fixed intention on the subject. But this is the custom: for if the law were to bi'nd down a free and independent citizen to keep his word with the public, what would become of the liberty of the subject? Besides, it is in the way of trade. And if passengers be decoyed in the way of trade, and people be inconvenienced in the way of trade, what man, who is a sharp tra 'esman himself, shall say, "We must put a stop to this?" Impressed by the deep solemnity of the public announcement, I (being then ignorant of these usages) was for hurrying on board in a breati^less state, immediately; but receiving private and confidential information that the boat would certainly not start until Friday, April the First, we made ourselves very comfortable in the mean while, and went on board at noon that day. CHAPTER XI FROM PITTSBURG TO CINCINNATI IN A WESTERN STEAMBOAT. CINCINNATI The Messenger was one among a crowd of high-pressure steamboats, clustered together by a wharf-side, which, looked down upon from the rising ground that forms the landing-place, and backed by the lofty bank on the opposite side of the river, appeared no larger than so many floating models. She had some forty passengers on board, exclusive of the poorer persons on the lower deck; and iu half an hour, or less, proceeded on her way. We had opening ou satisfactor we had be€ as far aft forward."] circumstan ciently test an unspeal where one < this was oii cabin, whic the other p and gaze u] quarters wi If the na we are in tl: more foreig I hardly kn In the fir other such I calculated t that they ar might be ir perform son There is no covered wit] chimneys, a Then, in ore and doors, together as tastes of a c resting on a in the narro deck, are th< wind that bl Passing 01 fire, exposed the frail piL guarded in a idlers and en the manager mysteries mj that the won but that any Within, th ho;if • {rr\nn t^r] of it at the st American Notes 127 We had, for ourselves, a tiny state-room with two berths in if sTtiSo^l* fi iv ^f.f -' -bi/xhere was. undoubt:dly^meiSi;*g satisfactory in this "location," inasmuch as it was in the s* rn and ls^^aftZ^^'%'^''^ '''^'' T^ ^'^^''y -ecommendeu to'keep fomard •• Nnr^wf '?i^' ^""^"'^ *^^ steamboats generally blew up forward Nor was this ai. unnecessary caution, as the occurrence and riwi ^'I'f j'^."'^'^ *^^" °"« «"^^ fatality during our stay suffi- ciently testified. Apart from this source of self-congrltulation it was whero^^ne ro'' H K^'^f '° ^"7 ^"^ P^^^^' "° "^^"^^ how confined! f hi w.?^ V, "^ ,^^ ^ u "^= ^"^ ^' *^^ "°^ °* l»^tl« chambers of which cabin wh,Vh ^^"^ ^^?^ ^ '''°"^ glass-door besides that in the ladies' ^^r ^/k ''P^''^'^ °'' ^ ""^"^^ g^^le^y outside the vessel, where the other passengers seldom came, and where one could sit in pea 'e nnf rf.^"? "T '\'^\^'^S prospect. we took possession of ou?new quarters with much pleasure. vve^Lei^nTh^hT.^^'/' ^^^""^ ^^''^^^ described be unlike anything we are in the habit of seeing on water, these western vessels are still TZJ?'^^^'' *° ^i^ *A' '??^' ^^ ^^ accustomed to entertain of boats I hardly know what to liken them to, or how to describe them. in the first place, they have no mast, cordage, tackle, rigging or c1ku?j2 ,^°^*-^^.k«/^^'' r^ have they anything in their'shf pe ft all f hi?/h ° ^Tu"""^ °"^ °^ ^ ^°^^'" h^^d' «t^^"' sides, or keel. Except that they are in the water, and display a couple of paddle-boxes thev might be intended, for anything thlt appears to the conSy to T wJ^ '°°'^- "Ki^'^r? '^'''^^^' ^^8h and dry. upon a mountain top. There is no visible deck, even: nothing but a long, black, ugly roof covered with burnt-out feathery .parks; above which tower twoTron chimneys, and a hoarse escape valve, and a glass steerage-house. Then in order as the eye descends towards the water, are the sides and doors, and windows of the state-rooms, jumbled as oddl^ together as though they formed a small street, built by the varying tastes of a dozen men: the whole is supported on beams and pillar! resting on a dirty barge, but a few inches above the water's edge- and ILt l^Tv,""^. 'P'""® between this upper structure and this barge's wln^'fw Jjf ^'''''^^! ^''^' ^""^ machinery, open at the sides to every wind that blows and every storm of raux it drives along its path. Passing one of these boats at right, and seeing the great bodv of fire, exposed as I have just described, that rages and roars beneath the frail pile of painted wood: the machinery, not warded off or guarded m any way. but doing its wci'k in the midst of the crowd of dlers and emigrants and children, who throng the lower deck: under the management, oc of reckless men whose acquaintance with its mysteries may have been cf six months' standing: one feels directly that the wonder is, not that there should be so many fatal accidents but that any journey should be safely made. hn^??'"' ^^'u'^li''''^ ^"""S ""^"^^ ^a^i"' ^^^ whole length of the ^fT+'oV^u* "/"""•'"'' ^'-'t'-r^"""" ^pen, on Doili sides. A smaUT>ortion 01 it at the stem is partitioned off for the ladies; and the bar ii at the 4 i 'u > 1 s ■■ ■ i 128 American Notes if' M 121 opposite extreme. There is a long table down the cen\ie, and at either end a stove. The washing apparatus is forward, on the de^K. It is a little better than on board the canal boat, but not much. In all modes of travelling, the American customs, with reference to the means of personal cleanliness and wholesome ablution, arc extremely negligent and filthy; and I strongly incline to the belief that a con- siderable amount of illness is referable to this cause. We are to be on board the Messenger three days: arriving at Cincinnati (barring accidents) on Monday morning. There are three meals a day. Breakfast at seven, dinner at half-past twelve, supper about six. At each, there are a great many small dishes and plates upon the table, with very little in them; so that although there is every appearance of a mighty "spread," there is seldom really more than a joint: except for those who fancy slices of beet-root, shreds of dried beef, comj^iicatcd entanglements of yellow pickle; maize, Indian com, applv-^-snuce, and pumpkin. Some people fancy all these little dainties together (and sweet preserves beside), by way of relish to their roast pig. They are generally those dyspeptic ladies and gentlemen who eat unheard-of quantities of hot com tjread (almost as good for the digestion as a kneaded pin-cushion), for breakfast, and for supper. Those who do not observe this custom, and who help themselves several times instead, usually suck their knives and forks meditatively, until they have decided what to take next: then pull them out of their mouths: put them in the dish; help themselves; and fall to work again. At dinner, there is nothing to drink upon the table, but great jugs full of cold water. Nobody says anything, at any meal, to anybody. All the passengers are very dismal, and seem to have tremendous secrets weighing on their minds. There is no conversation, no laughter, no cheerfulness, np sociality, except in spitting; and that is done in silent fellowship round the stove, when the meal is over. Every man sits down, dull and languid; swallows his fare as if breakfasts, dinners, and suppers, were necessities of nature never to be coupled with recreation or enjoyment; and having bolted his food in a gloomy silence, bolts himself, in the same state. -^ But for these animal ob- servances, you might suppose the whole male portion of the company to be the melancholy ghosts of departed book-keepers, who had fallen dead at the desk: such is their weary air of business and calculation. Undertakers on duty would be sprightly beside them; and a collation of funeral-baked meats, in comparison with these meals, would be a sparkling festivity. The people are all alike, too. There is no diversity of character. They travel about on the same errands, say and do the same things in exactly the same manner, and follow in the same dull cheerless round. All down the long table, there is scarcely a man who is in anything different from his neighbour. It is quite a relief to have, sitting opposite, that iittie girl of fifteen with the loquacious chin: who, to do her justice, acts up to it, and fully identifies nature's handwr repose t beautifi there — i beyond West, w They w omen ai liead, w She was bright a Furth their ph mine. H cottages people t together evening off pisto They, rise, and room, re A fine others: a dividing maybe t( village (] are for t hereabou and mile trace of '. but the I it looks 1: its little ! and send in the cor stumps, ] just now house on leans up( from the is like a § The dog c face agaii common still there itc American Notes It either :, It is a I. In all i to the ;tremely t a con- iving at re three , supper d plates there is lly more hreds of maize, d sweet hey are heard-of ion as a who do a.1 times itil they mouths: gain. At jugs full ody. All s secrets hter, no done in ery man dinners, led with gloomy mal ob- ompany vho had less and le them; th these laracter. le things :heerless rho is in to have, >U3 chin: nature's 129 handwntmg. for of all the small chatterboxes that ever invaded the repose of drowsy ladies' cabin, she is the first and foremost The beautiful girl, who sits a little beyond her— farther down the table there— married the young man with the dark whiskers, who sits beyond her. only la . month. They are going to settle in the very Far West, where he has lived four years, but where she has never been Ihey were both overturned in a stage-coach the other day (a bad omen anywhere else, where overturns are not so common), and his head, which bears the marks of a recent wound, is bound up still She was hurt too. at the same time, and lay insensible for some davs' bright as her eyes are, now. ^ ' Further down still, sits a man who is going some miles beyond their place of destination, to "improve" a newly-discovered copper mine. He carries the village— that is to be— with him: a few frame cottages, and an apparatus for smelting the copper. He carries its people too. They are partly American and partly Irish, and herd together on the lower deck; where they amused themselves last evening till the night was pretty far advanced, by alternately firing oft pistols and singing hymns. -^ 6 They, and the very few who have been left at table twenty minutes rise, and go away. We do so too; and passing through our little state- room. resuHxC our seats in the quiet gallery without. A fine broad river always, but in some parts much wider than in others: and then there is usually a green island, covered with trees dividing It into two streams. Occasionally, we stop for a few minutes' maybe to take m wood, maybe for passengers, at some small town or village (I ought to say city, every place is a city here); bx>.t the banks are lor the most part deep solitudes, overgrown with trees which hereabouts, are already in leaf and very green. For miles, and miles' and miles, these solitudes are unbroken by any sign of human life or l''^.^!u° i""™^^ footstep; nor is anything seen to move about them but the blue jay, whose colour is so bright, and yet so delicate, that It looks like a flying flower. At lengthened intervals a log cabin wi^h Its httle space of cleared land about it. nestles under a rising gr'ound and sends its thread of blue smoke curling up into the sky. It stands m the corner of the poor field of wheat, which is full of great unsightlv stumps, like earthly butchers'-blocks. Sometimes the ground is only ]ust now cleared: the felled trees lying yet upon the soil: and the log- house only this morning begun. As we pass this clearing, the settler leans upon his axe or hammer, and looks wistfully at the people from the world. The children creep out of the temporary hut which IS like a gipsy tent upon the ground, and clap their hands and shout I he dog only glances round at us, and then looks up into his master's lace again, as if he were rendered uneasy by any suspension of the common business, and had nothing more to do with pleasures. And still there is the same, eternal foreground. The ri"- - has washed away I ^^P-'^^' ^"" stateiy trees have fallen down into the stream Some have been there so long, that they are mere dry, grizzly skeletons. 323 ' 1 mmtm 130 American Notes Some have just toppled over, and having earth yet about their roots, ate bathing their green heads in the river, and putting forth new shoots and branches. Some arc almost sliding down, as you look at them. And some were drowned so long ago, that their bleached arms start out from the middle of the current, and seem to try to grasp the boat, and drag it under water. Through such a scene as this, the unwieldy machine takes its hoarse, sullen way: venting, at every revolution of the paddles, a loud high-pressure blast; enough, one would think, to waken up the host of Indians who lie buried in a great mound yonder: so old, that mighty oaks and other forest trees have struck their roots into its earth; and so high, that it is a hill, even among the hills that Nature planted round it. The very river, as though it shared one's feelings of compassion for the extinct tribes who lived so pleasantly here, in their blessed ignorance of white existence, hundreds of years ago, steals out of its way to ripple near this mound: and there are few places where the Ohio sparkles more brightly than in the Big Grave Creek. All this I see as I sit in the little stem-galley mentioned just now. Evening slowly steals upon the landscape and changes it before me, when we stop to set some emigrants ashore. Five men, as many wopien, and a little girl. All their worldly goods are a bag, a large chest and an old chair: one, old, high-backed, rush- bottomed chair: a solitary settler in itself. They are rowed ashore in the boat, while the vessel stands a little off awaiting its return, the water being shallow. They are landed at the foot of a high bank, on the summit of which are a few log cabins, attainable only by a long winding path. It is growing dusk; but the sun is very red, and shines in the water and on some of the tree-tops, like fire. The men get out of the boat first; help out the women; take out the bag, the chest, the chair; bid th^ rowers "good-bye;" and shove the boat off for them. At the first plash of the oars in the water, the oldest woman of the party sits down in the old chair, close to the water's edge, without speaking a word. None of the others sit down, though the chest is large enough for many seats. They all stand where they landed, as if stricken into stone; and look after the boat. So they remain, quite still and silent: the old womaai and her old chair, in the centre; the bag and chest upon the shore, without anybody heeding them: all eyes fixed upon the boat. It comes alongside, is made fast, the men jump on board, the engine is put in motion, and we go hoarsely on again. There they stand yet, without the motion of a hand. I can see them through my glass, when, in the distance and increasing darkness, they are mere specks to the eye: lingering there still: the old woman i" th^ oid chair, and all the rest about her: not stirring in the least degree. And thus I slowly lose them. The night is dark, and we proceed within the shadow of the wooded bank, which makes it darker. After gliding past the sombre maze of boughs for a long time, we come upon an open space where the tall trees are burning. Tuc shape Oi every uiancu snu twig is cxp-resscu in a dee] to vegel enchant ing awa] and go i this grot ashes, th men of d their fell the roUii but verj heard, ai foot. Midnij the mor before w and flag! there we of a thoi Cincin I have n pleasant! houses oj tile. Nor The stret residence thing of erections fectly de qualities villas am flowers, i to those agreeable its adjoir an amph: is seen to There on the dc processio they star It compri ington A officers o: with scar gaily. Th and it wii I was American Notes 131 in a deep red glow, and as the light wind stirs and ruffles it. they seem to vegetate in fire. It is such a sight as we read of in legends of enchanted forests: saving that it is sad to see these noble works wast- ing away so awfully, alone; and to think how many years must come and go before the magic that created them will rear their like upon this ground again. But the time will come: and when, in their changed ashes, the growth of centuries unborn has struck its roots, the restless men of distant ages will repair to these again unpeopled solitudes; and their fellows, in cities far away, that slumber now, perhaps, beneath the rolling sea, will read in language strange to any ears in being now, but very old to them, of primeval forests where the axe was never heard, and where the jungled ground was never trodden by a human foot. Midnight and sleep blot out these scenes and thoughts: and wheji the morning shines again, it gilds the house-tops of a lively city, before whose broad paved wharf the boat is moored; with other boats,' and flags, and moving wheels, and hum of men around it; as though there were not a solitary or silent rood of ground within the compass of a thousand miles. Cincinnati is a beautiful city; cheerful, thriving, and animated. I have not often seen a place that commends itself so favourably and pleasantly to a stranger at the first glance as this does: with its clean houses of red and white, its well-paved roads, and loot-ways of bright tile. Nor does it become less prepossessing on a closer acquaintance. The streets are broad and airy, the shops extremely good, the private residences remarkable for their elegance and neatness. There is some- thing of invention and fancy in the varying styles of these latter erections, which, after the dull company of the steamboat, is per- fectly delightful, as conveying an assurance that there are such qualities still in existence. The disposition to ornament these pretty villas and render them attractive, leads to the culture of trees and flowers, and the laying out of well-kept gardens, the sight of which, to those who walk along the streets, is inexpressibly refreshing and agreeable. I was quite charmed with the appearance of the town, and its adjoining suburb of Mount Auburn: from which the cily, lying in an amphitheatre of hills, forms a picture of remarkable beauty, and is seen to great advantage. There happened to be a great Temperance Convention held here on the day after our arrival; and as the order of march brought the procession under the windows of the hotel in which we lodged, when they started in the morning, I had a good opportunity of seeing it. It comprised several thousand men; the members of various "Wash- ington Auxiliary Temperance Societies;" and was marshalled by officers on horseback, who cantered briskly up and down the line, with scarves and ribbons of bright colours fluttering out behind them gaily. There were bands of music too, and banners out of number: and it was a fresh, holiday-looking concourse altogether. I was particularly pleased to see the Irishmen, who formed a '■mm 132 American Notes distinct society among themselves, and mustered very strong with their green scarves; carrying their national Harp and their Portrait of Father Mathew, high above the people's heads. They looked as jolly and good-humoured as ever; and, working (here) the hardest for their living and doing any kind of sturdy labour that came in their way, were the most independent fellows there, I thought. The banners were very well painted, and flaunted down the street famously. There was the smiting of the rock, and the gushing forth of the waters; and there was a temperate man with "considerable of a hatchet" (as the standard-bearer would probably have said), aiming a deadly blow at a serpent which was apparently about to spring upon him from the top of a barrel of spirits. But the chief feature of this part of the show was a huge allegorical device, borne among the ship-carpenters, on one side whereof the steamboat Alcohol was represented bursting her boiler and exploding with a great crash, while upon the other, the good ship Temperance sailed away with a fair wind, to the heart's content of the captain, crew, and passengers. After going round the town, the procession repaired to a certain appointed place, where, as the printed programme set forth, it would be received by the children of the different free schools, "singing Temperance Songs." I was prevented from getting there, in time to hear these Little Warblers, or to report upon this novel kind of vocal entertainment: novel, at least, to me: but I found in a large open space, each society gathered round its own banners, and listening in silent attention to its own orator. The speeches, judging from the little I could hear of them, were certainly adapted to the occasion, as having that degree of relationship to cold water which wet blankets may claim: but the main thing was the conduct and appearance of the audience throughout the day; and that was admirable and full of promise. Cincinnati is honourably famous for its free schools, of which it has so many that no person's child among its population can, by possibility, want the means of education, which are extended, upon an average, to four thousand pupils, annually. 1 was only present in one of these establishments during the hours of instruction. In the boys' department, which was full of little urchins (varying in their ages, I should say, from six years old to ten or twelve), the master offered to institute an extemporary examination of the pupils in algebra; a proposal, which, as I was by no means confident of my aDility to detect mistakes in that science, I declined with some alarm. In the girls' school, reading was proposed; and as I felt tolerably equal to that art, I expressed my willingness to hear a class. Bocks were distributed accordingly, and some half-dozen girls relieved each other in reading paragraphs from English History. But it seemed to be a dry compilation, infinitely above their powers; and when they had blundered through three or four dreary passages concerning the - X1.2. x^x^xlg same ixaLUic (obviously without comprehending ten words), I expressed myself ! American Notes A nuisance cause ;™n^ ttre wetlt ''^"^ ""■^^''y '«*''"^d- the witnesses, r.unsel and i,,rf f^ i^ "''"y spectators; and sufficiently jocose and snug ' ^^ """""^ ^ ^°"'' °' *a">"y "rcle, ag^tMe'"*?h:th:btonLr!ln^ --.-t-1'igent, courteous, and one of the most iSeresti"*g^n ^^"^^^^^^^^^ P-T" "'.^"^"- "'^ "^ beautiful and thrivine a-Tit i= „™ j '' ""* 8°°<1 reason: for population of flftyttoSsanV ,„^r' k"." j»"'aining, as it does, a parsed away since the eroundnni' ., v* t^-^nd-fifty years have for a few doLSrwS?d tood and i t ''^"'^' '"""S" ^* '"at time of dweliers in scittereVr^^rts^tprthl^^erTshTr" '"* =" '^^"'^'"' CHAPTER XII Pittsburg. As tms passage dL l^^ '"^ ""^^^^ ^^ ^^^ *=°"^e from thirteen hours we TSed to U . i?''"?? "^°"^ *^^^ ^^^^ve or the distinction oTsSnffn I .f^.""'^ *^t* "^^^*- "«* ^o^etrng sleep anywhere else ^^ ^ state-room, when it was possible tS dre^rrcrtTof ptst.^^^^^^^^^^ '^1'^^'' ^° ^^^^^^^ *« ^^^ usual tribeof Indlns. whHS'/i?^^^^^^^ ^/^^"^ °^ *^« ^^o^^t^^ pleasure of a long conve'sl^^^^^ '° °''' ^^^ ^^*^ ^^°°^ ^ ^^^ the the^'ll^fuage^^f 4^^^^^^^^ ^^-^^ ^^ had not begun to learn read mfnyt;<^ls and Sco"^*'^,^^^^^^^^ ^ y°""? "^^^ g^own. He had impressio? on his Snd'^e^V/J^^^^^^^ 'f'/ ^^^^^ Lake, and the great battle scene in M^?^^^ ^?^ ^^^^ °^ ^^^ from the congeniality of the suwLtst^^^^^^^ '^ '^^^^' ^° ^°"bt he had great interest °pH 11 -^j^t 4* -- -°''" P""'"^*' ^^^ *^«t^«' rectlvalihe harl rp.a ^- or,^ - ••t.i^i. x^c vippcarea to understand cor- .» J.eliel'-l^^^Xt- Uil^^ran^dir^ri'tl^^^^^^^^^ 11 134 American Notes fiercely. He was dressed in our ordinary every-day costume, which hung about his fine figure loosely, and with indifferent grace. On my telling him that I regretted not to see him in his own attire, he threw up his right arm, for a moment, as though he were brandishing some heavy weapon, and answered, as he let it fall again, that his race were losing many things besides their dress, and would soon be seen upon the earth no more: but he wore it at home, he added proudly. He told me that he had been away from his home, west of the Mississippi, seventeen months: and was now returning. He had been chiefly at Washington on some negotiations pending between his Tribe and the Government: which were not settled yet (he said in a melancholy way), and he feared n(;ver would be: for what could a few poor Indians do, against such well-skilled men of business as the whites? He had no love for Washington; tired of towns and cities very soon; and longed for the Forest and the Prairie. I asked him what he thought of Congress? He answered, with a smile, that it wanted dignity, in an Indian's eyes. He would very much like, he said, to see England before he died; and spoke with much interest about the great things to be seen there. When I told him of that chamber in the British Museum wherein are preserved household rriemorials of a race that ceased to be, thousands of years ago, he was very attentive, and it was not hard to see that he had a reference in his mind to the gradual fading away of his own people. This led us to speak of Mr. Catlin's gallery, which he praised highly: observing that his* own portrait was among the collection, and that all the likenesses were "elegant." Mr. Cooper, he said, had painted the Red Man well; and so would I, he knew, if I would go home with him and hunt buffaloes, which he was quite anxious I should do. When I told him that supposing I went, I should not be very likely to damage the buffaloes much, he took it as a great joke and laughed heartily. He was a remarkably handsome man; some years past forty, I should judge; with long black hair, an aquiline nose, broad cheek- bones, a sunburnt complexion, and a v.ery bright, keen, dark, and piercing eye. There were but twenty thousand of the Choctaws left, he said, and their number was decreasing every day. A few of his brother chiefs had been obliged to become civilised, and to make themselves acquainted with what the whites knew, for it was their only chance of existence. But they were not many; and the rest were as they always had been. He dwelt on this: and said several times that unless they tried to assimilate themselves to their conquerors, they nmst be swnpt away before the strides of civilised society. When we shook hands at parting, I told him he must come to England, as he longed to see the land so much: that I should hope to see him there, one day: and that I could promise him he would be well received and kindly treated. He was evidently pleased by this assurance, though he rejoined /ith a good-humoured smile and an American Notes Jf35 arch shake of is head, that the English used to be very fond of the Red Men when they wanted their help, but had not cared much for them, since. He took his leave; as stately and complete a gentleman of Nature's making, as ever I beheld; and moved among the people in the boat, another kind of being. He sent me a lithographed portrait of himself soon afterwards; very like, though scarcely handsome enough; which I have carefully preserved in memory of our brief acquaintance. There was nothing very interesting in the scenery of this day's journey, which brought us at midnight to Louisville. We slept at the Gait House; a splendid hotel; and were as handsomely lodged as though we had been in Paris, rather than hundreds of miles beyond the AUeghanies. The city presenting no objects of sufficient interest to detain us on our way, -e resolved to proceed next day by another steamboat, the Fulton, and to join it, about noon, at a suburb called Portland, where it would be delayed some time in passing through a canal. The interval, after breakfast, we devoted to riding through the town, which is regular and cheerful: the streets being laid out at right angles, and planted with young trees. The buildings are smoky and blackened, from the use of bituminous ;oal, but an Englishman is well used to that appearance, and indisposed to quarrel with it. There did not appear to be much business stirring; and some un- finished buildings and improvements seemed to intimate that the city had been overbuilt in the ardour of "going-a-head," and waa suffering under the re-action consequent upon such feverish forcing of its powers. On our way to Portland, we passed a "Magistrate's office," which amused me, as looking far more like a dame school than any police establishment: for this awful Institution was nothing but a little lazy, good-for-nothing front parlour, open to the street; wherein two or three figures (I presume the magistrate and his myrmidons) were basking in the sunshine, the very effigies of languor and repose. It was a perfect picture of Justice retired from business for want of customers; her sword and scales sold off; napping comfortably with her legs upon the table. Here, as elsewhere in these parts, the road was perfectly alive with pi|^s of all ages; lying about in every direction, fast asleep; or grunting along in quest of hidden dainties. I had always a sneaking kindness for these odd animals, and found a constant source of amusement, when all others failed, in watching their proceedings. As we were riding along this morning, I observed a little incident between two youthful pigs, which was so very human as to be inexpressibly comical and grotesque at the time, though I dare say, in telling, it is tame enough. One young gentleman (a very delicafR porker with several strawf> sticking about his nose, betokening recent investigations in a dung- hill) was walking deliberately on, profoundly thinking, when suddenly 1 1 M 1^ i i 1 I 'r I J^^M^^^^H 1 '-^1 ■ ;| Tl l'.> m 136 American Notes his brother, who was lying in a miry hole unseen by him, rose up immediately before his startled eyes, ghostly with damp mud. Never was pig's whole mass of blood so turned. He turned back at least three feet, gazed for a moment, and then shot off as hard as he could go: his excessively little tail vibrating with speed and terror like a distracted pendulum. But before he had gone very far, he began to reason with himself as to the nature of this frightful appearance; and as he reasoned, he relaxed his speed by gradual degrees; until at last he stopped, and faced about. There was his brother, with the mud upon him glazing in the sun, yet staring out of the very same hole, perfectly amazed at his proceedings ! He was no sooner assured ot this; and he assured himself so carefully that one may almost say he shaded his eyes with his hand to see the better; than he came back at a round trot, pounced upon him, and summarily took off a piece of his tail; as a caution to him to be careful what he was about for the future, and never to play tricks with his family any more. We found the steamboat in the canal, waiting for the slow process of getting through the lock, and went on board, where we shortly afterwards had a new kind of visitor in the person of a certain Kentucky Giant whose name is Porter, and who is of the moderate height of seven feet eight inches, in his stockings. There never was a race of people who so completely gave the lie to history as these giants, or whom all the chroniclers have so cruelly libelled. Instead of roaring and ravaging about the world, constantly catering for their cannibal larders, and perpetually going to market in an unlawful manner, they are the meekest people in any man's acquaintance: rather inclining to milk and vegetable diet, and bearing anything for a quiet life. So decidedly are amiability and mildness their characteristics, that I confess I look upon that youth who distinguished himself by the slaughter of these inoffensive persons, as a false-hearted brigand, who, pre jnding to philanthropic motives, was secretly influenced only by the wealth stored up within their castles, and the hope of plunder. And I lean the more to this opinion from finding that even the historian" of those exploits, with all his partiality for his hero, is fain to admit that the slaughtered monsters in question were of a very innocent and simple turn; extremely guileless and ready of belief; lending a credulous ear to the most improbable tales; suffering themselves to be easily entrapped into pits; and even (as in the case of the Welsh Giant) with an excess of the hospitable politeness of a landlord, ripping themselves open, rather than hint at the possibility of their guests being versed in the vagabond arts of sleight-of-hand and hocus-pocus. The Kentucky Giant was but another illustration of the truth of this position. He had a weakness in the region of the knees, and a trustfulness in his long face, which appealed even to five-feet nine for encouragement and support. He was only twenty-five years old, he said, and had grown recently, for it had been found necessary to make an addition to the legs of his inexpressibles. At fifteen he was a short be had rati credit o though whisper I und unless h upon hi comprel "The Li make ti shown h instrum( feet higl Withi in the O The a and the same tii and wit oppresse capacity see such recollect wretchec really di and was or a pui part of i Sage's st down wi a busine as he ca ments st natural ( believe t mare to There in the 0I handson able, as us at the against ■ magnetis most fac have be< horror, weary, ii 323' American Notes 137 short boy, and in those days his English father and his Irish mother had rather snubbed him, as being too small of stature to sustain the credit of the family. He added that his health had not been good, though it was better now; but short people are not wanting who whisper that he drinks too hard. I understand he drives a hackney-coach, though how he does it, unless he stands on the footboard behind, and lies along the roof upon his chest, with his chin in the box, it would be difficult to comprehend. He brought his gun with him, as a curiosity. Christened "The Little Rifle," and displayed outside a shop-window, it would make the fortune of any retail business in Holborn. When he had shown himself and talked a little while, he withdrew with his pocket- instrument, and went bobbing down the cabin, among men of six feet high and upwards, like a lighthouse walking among lamp-posts. Within a few minutes afterwards, we were out of the canal, and in the Ohio river again. The arrangements of the boat were like those of the Messenger, and the passengers were of the same order of people. We fed at the same times, on the same kind of viands, in the same dull manner, and with the same observances. The company appeared to be oppressed by the same tremendous concealments, and had as little capacity of enjoyment or light-heartedness. I never in my life did see such listless, heavy dulness as brooded over these meals: the very recollection of it weighs me down, and makes me, for the moment, wretched. Reading and writing on my knee, in our little cabin, I really dreaded the coming of the hour that srmmoned us > table; and was as glad to escape from it again, as if it had been a penance or a punishment. Healthy cheerfulness and good spirits forming a part of the banquet, I could soak my crusts in the fountain with Jbe Sage's strolling player, and revel in their glad enjoyment: but sitting down with so many fellow-animals to ward off thirst and hunger as a business; to empty, each creature, his Yahoo's trough as quickly as he can, and then slink sullenly away; to have these social sacra- ments stripped of everything but the mere greedy satisfaction of the natural cravings; goes so against the grain with me, that I seriously believe the recollection of these funeral feasts will be a waking night- mare to me all my life. There Jva3 some relief in this boat, too, which there had not been in the other, for the captain (a blunt, good-natured fellow) had his handsome wife with him, who was disposed to be lively and agree- able, as were a few other lady-passengers who had their seats about us at the same end of the table. But nothing could have made head against the depressing influence of the general body. There was a magnetism of dulness in them which would have beaten down the most facetious companion that the earth ever knew. A jest would have been a crime, and a smile would have faded into a grinning horror. Such deadly, leaden people; such systematic plodding, weary, insupportable heaviness; such a mass of animated indigestion 323* I 138 American Notes mm'i W^t in respect of all that was genial, jovial, frank, social, or hearty; never, sure, was brought together elsewhere since the world began. Nor was the scenery, as we approached the junction of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers, at all inspiriting in its influence. The trees were stunted in their growth; the banks were low and flat; the settlements and log cabins fewer in number: their inhabitants more wan and wretched than any we had encountered yet. No songs of birds were in the air, no pleasant scents, no moving lights and shadows from swift passing clouds. Hour after hour, the changeless glare of the hot, unwinking sky, shone upon the same monotonous objects. Hour after hour, the river rollcv' along, as wear' '>'- i slowly as the time itself. At length, upon the morning of th^ tn. \y, we arrived at a spot so much more desolate than any we had yet beheld, that the forlorn- est places we had passed, were, in comparison with it, full of interest. At the junction of the two rivers, on ground so flat and low and marshy, that at certain seasons of the year it is inundated to the house-tops, lies a breeding-place of fever, ague, and death; vaunted in England as a mine of Golden Hope, and speculated in, on the faith of monstrous representations, to many people's ruin. A dismal swamp an which the half -built houses rot away: cleared here and there for th space of a few yards; ^nd teeming, then, with rank unwholesome vegetation, in whose baleful shade the wretched wanderers who are tempted hither, droop, and die, and lay their bones; the hateful Mississippi circling and eddying before it, and turning off upon its southern course a slimy monster hideous to behold; a hotbed of disease, an ugly sepulchre, a grave uncheered by any gleam of promise: a place without one single quality, in earth or air or water, to commend it: such is this dismal Cairo. But what words shall describe the Mississippi, great father of rivers, who (praise be to Heaven) has no young children like him! An enormous ditch, sometimes two or three miles wide, running liquid mud, six miles an hour: its strong and frothy current choked and obstructed everywhere by huge logs and whole forest trees: now twining themselves together in great rafts, from the interstices of which a sedgy, lazy foam works up, to float upon the water'r top; now rolling past like monstrous bodies, ttieir tangled roots showing like matted hair; now glancing singly by like giant leeches; and now writhing round and round in the vortex of some small whirlpool, like wounded snakes. The banks low, the trees dwarfish, the marshes swarming with frogs, the wretched cabins few and far apart, their inmates hollow-cheeked and pale, the weather very hot, mosquitoes penetrating into every crack and crevice of the boat, mud and slime on everything: nothing pleasant in its aspect, but the harmless light- ning which flickers every night upon the dark horizon. For two days we toiled up this foul stream, striking constantly against the floating timber, or stopping to avoid those more danger- trees that have their roots below the tide. When the nights are very American Notes 139 dark, the look-out stationed in the head of the boat, knows by the ripple of the water if any great impediment be near at hand, and rings a bell beside him, which is the signal for the engine to be stopped; but always in the night this bell has work to do, and after every ring, there comes a blow which renders it no easy matter to remain in bed. The decline of day here was very gorgeous; tingeing the firmament deeply with red and gold, up to the very keystone of the arch above us. As the sun went down behind the bank, the slightest blades c. grass upon it seemed to become as distinctly visible as the arteries in the skeleton of a leaf; and when, as it slowly sank, the red and golden bars upon the water grew dimmer, and dimmer yet, as if they were sinking too; and all the glowing colours of departing day paled, inch by inch, before the sombre night; the scene became a thousand times more lonesome and j more dreary than before, and all its influences darkened with the sky. We drank the muddy water of this river while we were upon it. It is considered wholesome by the natives, and is something more opaque than gruel. I have seen water like it at the Filter-shops, but nowhere else. On the fourth night after leaving Louisville, we reached St. Louis, and here I witnessed the conclusion of an incident, trifling enough in itself, but very pleasant to see, which had interested me during the whole journey. There was a little woman on board, with a little baby; and both little woman and little child were cheerful, good-looking, bright- eyed, and fair to see. The little woman had been passing a long time with her sick mother in New York, and had left her home in St. Louis, in that condition in which ladies who truly love their lords desire to be. The baby was born in her mother's house; and she had not seen her husband (to whom she was now returning), for twelve months: having left him a month or two after their marriage. Well, to be sure, there never was a little v/oman so full of hope, and tenderness, and love, and anxiety, as this little woman was: and all day long she wondered whether " He " would be at the wharf and whether "He" had got her letter; and whether, if she sent the baby ashore by somebody else, "He" would know it, meeting it in the street: which, seeing that he had never set eyes upon it in his life, was not very likely in the abstract, but was probable enough, to the young mother. She was such an artless little creature; and was in such a sunny, beaming, hopeful state; and let out all this matter clinging close about her heart, so freely; that all the other lady passengers entered into the spirit of it as much as she; and the captain (who heard all about it from his wife) was wondrous sly, I promise you: inquiring, every time we met at table, as in forgetfulness, whether she expected anybody to meet her at St. Louis, and whether she would w^ant to go ashore the night vve reached it (but he supposed she wouldn't) , and cutting many other dry jokes of that nature. There was ^^^n 1 I 1 ' ^'"' 1 >*f i'i > 'I 140 American Notes one htt' 3 weazen, dried-apple-faced old woman, who took occasion to doub. the constancy of husbands in such circumstances of bereave- ment; and there was another lady (with a lap-dog) old enough to moralize on the lightness of human affections, and yet not so old that she could help nursing the baby, now and then, or laughing with the rest, when the little woman called it by its father's name, and asked It all manner of fantastic questions concerning him in the joy of her heart. It was something of a blow to the little woman, that when we were within twenty miles of our destination, it became clearly necessary to put this baby to bed. But she got over it with the same good humour; tied a handkerchief round her head; and came out into the little gallery with the rest. Then, such an oracle as she became in reference to the localities ! and such facetiousness as was displayed by the married ladies! and such sympathy as was shown by the single ones! and such peals of laughter as the little woman herself (who would just as soon have cried) greeted every jest with! At last, there were the lights of St. LouIlv and here was the wharf, and those were the steps: a. ' the little woman covering her face with her hands, and laughing (or seeming to laugh) more than ever, ran into her own cabin, and shut herself up. I have no doubt that in the charming inconsistency of such excitement, she stopped her ears, lest she should hear "Him" asking for her: but I did not see her do it. Then, a great crowd of people rushed on board, though the boat was not yet made fast, but was wandering about, among the other boats, to find a landing-place: an( verybody looked for the husband- and nobody saw him: when, in the midst of us all— Heaven knows how she ever got there— there was the little woman clinging with both arms tight round the neck of a fine, good-looking, sturdy young fellow! and in a moment afterwards, there she was again, actually clapping her little hands for joy. as she dragged him through the small door of her small cabin, to look at the baby as he lay asleep! We went to a large hotel, called the Planter's House: built like an English hospital, with long passages and bare walls, and skylights above the room-doors for the free circulation of air. There were a great many boarders in it; and as many lights sparkled and glistened from the windows down into the street below, when we drove up, as if it had been illuminated on some occasion of rejoicing. It is an excellent house, and the proprietors have most bountiful notions of providing the creature comforts. Dining alone with my wife in our own room, one day, I counted fourteen dishes on the table at once. In the old French portion of the town, the thoroughfares are narrow and crooked, and some of the houses are very quaint and picturesque: being built of wood, with tumble-down galleries before the windows, approachable by stairs or rather ladders from the street. There arn mippr lif+l^ l-»arl-»oT"o' cKnno r,r>A a •«*^1ip««^#v l«^-w..»^ — -p'-j ana Gnninng-iiOuses luu, iii xiua quarter; and abundance of crazy old tenements with blinking case- ments, habitat have a age, api ing in a It is warehoi vast pla good he far a-he a few y( vie, in p The French are a Je and a k erection on the this bull works p: Belgium In ad cathedra by the n . church, tribes. The I most otl excellen( it befriei any sect construe There in this ci No mj (unless 1: doubt, b the perfe rather di adding, t of undra own opir As I h the furth town had me; a da Looki-.g- Deeming .^rib J^Rl American Notes 141 ments, such as may be seen in Flanders. Some of rhese ancient habitations, with high garret gable-windows perking to the roofs have a kind of French shrug about them ; and being lop-sided with age, appear to hold their heads askew, besides, as if they were grimac- mg in astonishment at the American Improvements. It is hardly necessary to say, that these consist of wharfs and warehouses, and new buildings in all directions; and of a great many vast plans which are still "progressing." Already, however, some very good houses, broad streets, and marble-fronted shops, have gone so far a-head as to be in a state of completion; and the town bids fair in a few years to improve considerably: though it is not likely ever to vie, in point of elegance or beauty, with Cincinnati. The Roman Catholic religion, introduced here by the early French settlers, prevails extensively. Among the public institutions are a Jesuit college; a convent for "the Ladies of the Sacred Heart" and a large chapel attached to the college, which was in course of erection at the time of my visit, and was intended to be consecrated on the second of December in the next year. The architect of this building, is one of the reverend fathers of the school, and the works proceed under his sole direction. The organ will be sent from Belgium. In addition to these establishments, there is a Roman Catholic cathedral, dedicated to Saint Francis Xavier; and a hospital, founded by the munificence of a deceased resident, who was a member of that church. It also sends missionaries from hence among the Indian tribes. The Unitarian church is represented, in this remote place, as in most other parts of America, by a gentleman of great worth and excellence. The poor have good reason to remember and bless it; for it befriends them and aids the cause of rational education, without any sectarian or selfish views. It is liberal in all its actions; of kind construction; and of wide benevolence. There are three free-schools already erected, and in full operation in this city. A fourth is building, and will soon be opened. No man ever admits the unhealthiness of the place he dwells in (unless he is going away from it), and I shall therefore, I have no doubt, be at issue with the inhabitants of St. Louis, in questioning the perfect salubrity of its climate, and in hinting that I think it must rather dispose to fever, in the summer and autumnal seasons. Just adding, that it is very hot. lies among great rivers, and has vast tracts of undrained swampy land around it. I leave the reader to form his own opinion. As I had a great desire to see a Prairie before turning back from the furthest point of my wanderings; and as some gentlemen of the town had, in their hospitable consideration, an equal desire to gratify me; a dav was fixed, hefnrp mv rlAr«arfiiro fn-r o« ^-u-ry^AUi^.^ ^^ au_ Lookiy.g-Glass Prairie, which is within thirty miles of the town. Deeming it possible that my readers max ot objec. to know what tu ii ■I IlllLUUItl WUMM it 142 American Notes kind of thing such a gipsy party may be at that distance from home, and among what sort of objects it moves, I will describe the jaunt in another chapter. If CHAPTER XIII A JAUNT TO THE LOOKING-GLASS PRAIRIE AND BACK I MAY premise that the word Prairie is variously pronounced paraaer, parearer, and paroarer. The latter mode of pronunciation is perhaps the most in favour. We were fourteen in all, and all young men: indeed it is a singular though very natural feature in the society of these distant settle- ments, that it is mainly composed of adventurous persons in tho prime of life, and has very few grey heads among it. There were no ladies: the trip being a fatiguing one: and we were to start at five o'clock in the morning punctually. I was called at four,; that I might be certain of keeping nobody waiting; and having got some bread and milk for breakfast, threw up the window and loolfcd down into the street, expecting to see the whole party busily astir, and great preparations going on below. But as everything was very quiet, and the street presented that hopeless aspect with which five o'clock in the morning is familiar elsewhere, I deemed it as well to go to bed again, and went accordingly. I woke again at seven o'clock, and by that time the party had assembled, and were gathered round, one light carriage, with a very stout axletree; one something on wheels like an amateur carrier's cart; one double phaeton of great antiquity and unearthly con- struction; one gig with a great hole in its back and a broken head; and one rider on horseback who was to go on before. I got into the first coach with three companions; the rest bestowed themselves in the other vehicles; two large baskets were made fast to the lightest; two large stone jars in wicker cases, technicaUy kaown as demi-johns, were consigned to the "least rowdy" of the party for safe-keeping; and the procession moved oflE to the ferry-boat, in which it was to cross the river bodily, men, horses, carriages, and all, as the manner in these parts is. We got over the river in due course, and mustered again before a little wooden box on wheels, hove down al) aslant in a morass, with "merchant tailor" painted in very lar'i^e letters over the door. Having settled the order of proceeding, and the road to be taken, we started off once more and began to make our way through an ill- favoured Black Hollow, called, less expressively, the American The previous day had been— not to say hot, for the term is weak '«• I American Notes 143 and lukewarm m its power of conveying an idea of the temperature. The town had been on fire; in a blaze. But at night it had come on tu [?/"J".*°"®"*^' *"*** *^^ "*^^* '°"8? ** ^^^ ^ai'^ed without cessation. We had a pair of very strong horses, but travelled at the rat^ of little more than a couple of miles an hour, through one unbroken slough of black mud and water. It had no variety but in depth. Now it was only half over the wheels, now it hid the axletree, and now the coach sank down m it almost to the windows. The air resounded in all directions with the loud chirping of the frogs, who. with the pigs (a coarse, ngly breed, as unwholesome-looking as though they were the spontaneous growth of the country), had the whole scene to themselves. Here and there we passed a log hut: but the wretched cabins were wide apart and thinly scattered, for though the soil is very rich in this place, few people can exist in such a deadly atmo- sphere. On either side of the track, if it deserve the name, was the thick bush;" and everywhere was stagnant, slimy, rotten, filthy As it is the custom in these parts to give a horse a gallon or so of cold water whenever he is in - foam with heat, we halted for that purpose, at a log inn in the wood, far rer oved from any other residence. It consisted of one room, bare-roofed and bare-walled of course, with a loft above. The ministering priest was a swarthy young savage, in a shirt of cotton print like bed-furniture, and a pair of ragged trousers. There were a couple of young boys, too. nearly naked, lying idle by the well; and they, and he, and the traveUer at the mn, turned out to look at us. The traveller was an old man with a grey gristly beard two inches long a shaggy moustache of the same hue, and enom.ous eyebrows- which almost obscured his lazy, semi-drunken glance, as he stood regarding us with folded arms: poising himself alternately upon his toes and heels. On being addressed by one of the party, he drew nearer and said, rubbing his chin (which scraped under his horny hand like fresh gravel beneath a nailed shoe), that he was from Dela- ware, and had lately bought a farm "down there," pointing into one ot the marshes where the stunted trees were. thickest. He was "going " he added, to St. Louis, to fetch his family, whom he had left behind- but he seemed m no great hurry to bring on these incumbrances, for when we moved away, he loitered back into the cabin, and was plainly bent on stopping there so long as his money lasted. He was a great politician of course, and explained his opinions at some length to one of our company; but I only remember that he concluded with two sentiments one of which was. Somebody for ever; and the other. Blast everybody else! which is by no means a bad abstract of the general creed in these mat+ers. When the horses were swollen out to about twice their natural dimensions (there seems to be an idea hftm fha^- +>ii= i^i"^ «f i«flo4.;^^ improves their going), we went forward again, through muT and mire, and damp, and festering heat, and brake and bush, attended I 144 American Notes always by the music of the frogs and pigs, until nearly noon, when we halted at a place called Belleville. Belleville was a small collection of wooden houses, huddled together in the very heart of the bush and swamp. Many of them had singularly bright doors of red and yellow; for the place had been lately visited by a travelling pamter, "who got along," as I was told, "by eating his way." The criminal court was sitting, and was at that moment trying some criminals for horse-stealirj;: with whom it would most likely go hard: for live stock of all kinds being necessarily very much exposed in the woods, is held by the community in rather higher value than human life; and for this reason, juries generally make a point of finding all men indicted for cattle-stealing, guilty, whether or no. The horses belonging to the bar, the judge, ar ^ witnesses, were tied to temporary racks set up roughly in the roac y which is to be understood, a forest path, nearly knee-deep in mv ^nd slime. There was an hotel in this place, which, like all hotels in America, had its large dining-room for the public table. It was an odd, sham- bling, low-roofed out-house, half-cowshed and half-kitchen, with a coarse brown canvas table-cloth, and tin sconces stuck against the walls, to hold candles at supper-time. The horseman had gone forward to have cofifee and some eatables prepared, and they were by this time nearly ready. He had ordered "wheat-bread and chicken fixing," in preference to "corn-bread and common doings." The latter kind of refection includes only pork and bacon. The former comprehends broiled ham, sausages, veal cutlets, steaks, and such other viands of that nature as may be supposed, by a toleraoly wide poetical construction, "to fix" a chicken comfortably in the digestive organs of any lady or gentleman. On one of the door-posts at this inn, was a tin plate, whereon was inscribed in characters of gold, "Doctor Crocus;" and on a sheet of paper, pasted up by the side of this plate, was a written announce- ment that Dr. Crocus would that evening deliver a lecture on Phren- ology for the benefit of the Belleville public; at a charge, for ad^nis- sion, of so much a head. Straying up-stairs, during the preparation of the chicken fixings, I happened to pass the doctor's chamber; and as the door stood wide open, and the room was empty, I made bold to peep in. It was a bare, unfurnished, comfortless room, with an unframed portrait hanging up at the head of the bed; a likeness I take it, of the /^octor, for the forehead was fully displayed, and great stress was laid ay the artist upon its phrenological develr oments. The bed itself was covered with an old patch-work counterpane. The room was destitute of carpet or of curtain. There was a damp fireplace without any stove, full of wood ashes; a chair, and a very small table; and on the last- named piece of furniture was displayed, 'n grand array, the doctor's llVfc^O«»«» ^^^-k' AJL S^'* "LUX. ■ ^■C .«. u^\e A^^^^ ««. Liix^ \_-i ovuic iia.ii-u.VyZ.cii gi-^-isy -^u 1 1 Now, it certainly looked about the last apartment on the whole American Notes 145 earth out of which any man would be likely to get anything to do ' .m good. But the door, as I have said, stood coaxingly open, and -^'amly said in conjunction with the chair, the portrait, the table, a». 1 the books, "Walk in, gentlemen, walk in I Don't be ill, gentlemen, when you may be well in no time. Doctor « rocus is here, gentlemen, the celebrated Dr. Croc v ! Doctor Crocus has come all this way to cure you, gentlemen. If you haven't heard of Dr. Crocus, it's your fault, gentlemen, who live a little way out of the wor'.d here: not Dr! Crocus's. Walk in. gentlemen, walk in!" In the passage below, when I went down-stairs again, was Dr. Crocus himself. A crowd '^ad flocked in from the Court House, and a voice from among them c, - 2d out to the landlord, ' * Colonel i introduce Doctor Crocus." "Mr. Dickens," says the colonel. "Doctor Crocus." Upon which Doctor Crocus, who is a tall, fine-looking Scotchman, but rather fierce and warlike in appearance for a professor of the peaceful art of healing, bursts out of the concourse with his right arm extended, and his chest thrown out as far as it will possibly come and says: ' "Your countryman, sir I" Whereupon Doctor Crocus and I shake hands; and Doctor Crocus looks as if I didn't by any means realise his expectations, which, in a linen blouse, and a great straw hat. with a green ribbon, and' no gloves, and my face and nose profusely ornamented with the stings of mosquitoes and the bites of bugs, it is very likely I did not. "Long in these parts, sir?" says I. "Three or four months, sir," says the Doctor. "Do you think of soon returning to the old country?" «?ayR I. Doctor Crocus makes no verbfJ answer, but gives me an imploring look, which says so plainly 'Will you ask me that ag^in. a little louder, if you please?" that I repeat the question. "Think of soon returning to the old country, sir!" repeats the Doctor. "To the old country, sir," I rejoin. Doctor Crocus looks round upon the crowd to observe the effect he produces, rubs his hands, and says, in a very loud voice: "Not yet awhile, sir, not yet. You won't Cctch me at that just yet, sir, I am a little too fond of freedom for that, sir. Ha, ha! It's not so easy for a man to tear himself from a free country such as this is sir. Ha, ha! No, no! Ha. ha! None of that till one's obliged to do it' sir. No, no!" * As Doctor Crocus says these latter words, he shakes his head, knowingly, and laughs again. Many of the bystanders shake their heads in concert with the doctor, and laugh too, and look at each other as much as to say, "A pretty bright and first-rate sort of chap is Crocus ! " and unless I am very much mistaken, a good many people went to the lecture that night, who never thought about phrenology, or about Doctor Crocus either, in all their lives before. W. . I. iL. II Hi if' I .1 ii:< 146 American Notes From Belleville, we went on, through the same desolate kind of waste, and constantly attended, without the interval of a moment, by the same music; until, at three o'clock in the afternoon, we halted once more at a village called Lebanon to inflate the horses again, and give them some corn besides: of which they stood much in need. Pending this ceremony, I walked into the village, where I met a full-sized dwelling-house coming down-hill at a round trot, drawn by a score or more of oxen. The public-house was so very clean and good a one, that the managers of the jaunt resolved to rotum to it and put up there for the night, if possible. This course decided on, and the horses being well refreshed, we again pushed forward, and came upon the Prairie at sunset. It would be difficult to say why, or how — though it was possibly from having heard and read so much about it — but the effect on me was disappointment. Looking towards the setting sun, there lay, stretched out before my view, a vast expanse of level ground; un- broken, save by one thin line of trees, which scarcely amounted to a scratch upon the great blank; until it met the glowing sky, wherein it seemed to dip: mingling with its rich colours, and mellowing in its distant blue. There it! lay, a tranquil sea or lake without water, if such a simile be admissible, with the day going down upon it: a few birds wheeling here and there: and solitude and silence reigning paramount around. But the grass was not yet high; there were bare black patches on the f;round; and the few wild flowers that the eye could see, v"^re pc nnri scanty. Great as the picture was, its very flatness and • 't^n ,. uich left nothing to the imagination, tamed it down and ci ii|>.-,d s interest. I felt little of that sense of freedom and exhilarat*-^ nich a Scottish heath inspires, or even our English downs awaken. It was loiiely and wild, but oppressive in its barren monotony. I felt that in traversing the Prairies, I could never abandon myself to the scene, forgetful of all else; as I should do instinctively, were the heathei underneath my feet, or an iron- bound coast beyond; but should often glance towards the distant and frequently-receding line of the >iorizon, and wish it gained and passed. It is not a scene to be forgotten, but it is scarcely one, I think (at ail events, as I saw it), to remember with much pleasure, or to covet the looking-on again, in after-life. We encamped near a solitary log-house, for the sake of its water, and dined upon the plain. The baskets contained roast fowls, buffalo's tongue (an exquisite dainty, by the way), ham, bread, cheese, and butter; biscuits, champagne, sherry; lemons and sugar for punch; and abundance of rough ice. The meal was delicious, and the entertainers were the soul of kindness and good humour. I have often recalled that cheerful party to my pleasant recollection since, and shall not easily forget, in junketings nearer home with friends of older date, my boon companions 01 the Prairie. Returning to Lebanon that night, we lay at the little inn at which we had it woul of a ho Risir villaee: American Notes 147 we had halted in the afternoon. In point of cleanliness and comfort it would have suffered by no comparison with any English alehouse, of a homely kind, in England. Rising at five o'clock next morning, I took a walk about the village: none of the houses were strolling about to-day, but it was early for them yet, perhaps: and then amused myself by lounging in a kind of xarm-yard behind the tavern, of which the leading features were, a strange jumble of rough sheds for stables; a rude colonnade, ! ailt as a cool place of summer resort; a deep v/ell; a great earthen mound for keeping vegetables in, in winter time; and a pigeon-house, whose little apertures looked, as they do in all pigeon-houses, very much too small for the admission of the plump and swelling-lDreasted birds who were strutting about it, though they tried to get in never so hard. That interest exhausted, I took a survey of the inn's two parlours, which were decorated with coloured prints of Washington, and President Madison, and of a white-faced young lady (much speckled by the flies), who held up her gold neck- chain for the admiration of the spectator, and informed all admiring comers that she was "Just Seventeen:" although I should have thought her older. In the best room were two oil portraits of the kit- cat size, representing the landlord and his infant son; both looking as bold as lions, and staring out of the canvas with an intensity that would have been cheap at any price, They were painted, I think, by the artist who had touched up the Belleville doors with red and gold; for I seemed to recognise his style immediately. After breakfast, we started to return by a different way from that which we had taken yesterday, and coming up at ten o'clock with an encampment of German emigrants carrying their goods in carts, who had made a rousing fire which they were just quitting, stopped there to refresh. And very pleasant the fire was; for, hot though it had been yesterday, it was quite cold to-day, and the wind blew keenly. Looming in the distance, as we rode along, was another of the ancient Indian burial-places, called The Monks' Mound; in memory of a body of fanatics of the order of La Trappe, who founded a desolate convent there, many years ago, when there were no settlers within a thousand miles, and were all swept off by the pernicious climate: in which lamentable fatality, few rational people will suppose, perhaps, that society experienced any very severe deprivation. The track of to-day had the same features as the track of yester- day. There was the swamp, the bush, and the perpetual chorus of frogs, the rank unseemly growth, the unwholesome steaming earth. Here and there, and frequently too, we encountered a solitary broken- down waggon, full of some new settler's goods. It was a pitiful sight to see one of these vehicles leep in the mire; the axletree broken; the wheel lying idly by ts side; the man eone miles? away, to look for assistance; the woman seated among their wandering household gods with a baby at her breast, a picture of forlorn, dejected t II I 148 American Notes WW patience; the team of oxen crouching down mournfully in the mud, and breathing forth such clouds of vapour from their mouths and nostrils, that all the damp mist and fog around seemed to have come direct from them. In due time we mustered once again before the merchant tailor's, and having done so, crossed over to the city in the ferry-boat: passing, on the way, a spot called Bloody Island, the duelling-ground of St. Louis, and so designated in honour of the last fatal combat fought there, which was with pistols, breast to breast. Both com- batants fell dead upon the ground; and possibly some rational people may think of them, as of the gloomy madmen on the Monks' Mound, that they were no great loss to the community CHAPTER XIV RETURN TO CINCINNATI. A STAGE-COACH RIDE FROM THAT CITY TO COLUMBUS, AND THENCE TO SANDUSKY. SO, BY LAKE ERIE, TO THE FALLS OF NIAGARA As I had a desire to travel through the interior of the state of Ohio, and to "strike the lakes," as the phrase is, at a small town called Sandusky, to which that route would conduct us on our way to Niagara, we had to return from St. Louis by the way we had come, and to retrace our former track as far as Cincinnati. The day on which we were to take leave of St. Louis being very fine; and the steamboat, which was to have started I don't know how early in the morning, postponing, for the third or fourth time, her departure until the afternoon; we rode forward to an old French village on the river, called properly Carondelet, and nicknamed Vide Pochs, and arranged that the packet should call for us there. The place consisted of a few poor cottages, and two or three public-houses; the state of whose larders certainly seemed to justify the second designation of the village, for there was nothing to eat in any of them. At length, however, by going back some half a mile or so, we found a solitary house where ham ana coffee were procurable; and there we tarried to await the advent of the boat, which would come in sight from the green before the door, a long way off. It was a neat, unpretending village tavern, and we took our repast in a quaint little room with a bed in it, decorated with some old oil paintings, which in their time had probably done duty in a Catholic chapel or monastery. The fare was very good, and served with great cleanliness. The house was kept by a characteristic old couple, with whom we had a long talk, and who were perhaps a very good sample of that kind of people in the West. The la old eith( had beti seen all near seei and loco the son ( said (slij the roon the hou£ morrow proper t serve as year to behind t left thoi succeed. His wi with hin Philadel] had littl( die here heart wa even to : eased it The b( old lady place, wi and stea If the stream, 1 current i twelve o labyrintl to see be for five : again, so dealt in enough 1 Looking with mo came sta way amc for the n a long in about he that she was Cv.n£ American Notes 149 The landlord was a dry, tough, hard-faced old fellow (not so very old either, for he was but just turned sixty, I should think), who had been out with the militia in the last war with England, and had seen all kinds of service, — except a battle; and he had been very near seeing that, he added: very near. He had all his life been restless and locomotive, with an irresistible desire for change; and was still the son of his old self: for if he had nothing to keep him at home, he said (slightly jerking his hat and his thumb towards the window of the room in which the old lady sat, as we stood talking in front of the house), he would clean up his musket, and be off to Texas to- morrow morning. He was one of the very many descendants of Cain proper to this continent, who seem destined from their birth to serve as pioneers in the great human army: who gladly go on from year to year extending its outposts, and leaving home after home behind them; and die at last, utterly regardless of their graves being left thousands of miles behind, by the wandering generation who succeed. His wife was a domesticated, kind-hearted old soul, who had come with him, "from the queen city of the world," which, it seemed, was Philadelphia; but had no love for this Western country, and indeed had little reason to bear it any; having seen her children, one by one, die here of fever, in the full prime and beauty of their youth. Her heart was sore, she said, to think of them; and to talk on this theme, even to strangers, in that blighted place, so far from her old home, eased it somewhat, and became a melancholy pleasure. The boat appearing towards evening, we bade adieu to the poor old lady and her vagrant spouse, and making for the nearest landing- place, were soon on board The Messenger again, in our old cabin, and steaming down the Mississippi. If the coming up this river, slowly making head against the stream, be an irksome journey, the shooting down it with the turbid current is almost worse; for then the boat, proceeding at the rate of twelve or fifteen miles an hour, has to force its passage through a labyrinth of floating logs, which, in the dark, it is often npossible to see beforehand or avoid. All that night, the bell was never silent for five minutes at a time; and after every ring the vessel reeled again, sometimes beneath a single blow, sometimes beneath a dozen dealt in quick succession, the lightest of which seemed more than enough to beat in her frail keel, as though it had been pie-crust. Looking down upon the filthy river after dark, it seemed to be alive with monsters, as these black masses rolled upon the surface, or came starting up again, head first, when the boat, in ploughing her way among a shoal of such obstructions, drove a few among them for the moment under water. Sometimes the engine stopped during a long interval, and then before her and behind, and gathering close about her on all sides, were so many of these ill-favoured obstacles that she was fairly lieiumed in; the centre of a floating island; and was constrained to pause until they parted, somewhere, as dark It ill 150 American Notes clouds will do before the wind, and opened by degrees a channel out. In good time next morning, however, we came again in sight of the detestable morass called Cairo; and stopping there to take in wood, lay alongside a barge, whose starting timbers scarcely held together. It was moored to the bank, and on its side was painted "Coffee House;" that being, I suppose, the floating paradise to which the people fly for shelter when they lose their houses for a month or two beneath the hideous waters of the Mississippi. But looking southwards from this point, we had the satisfaction of seeing that intolerable river dragging its slimy length and ugly freight abruptly off towards New Orleans; and passing a yellow line which stretched across the current, were again upon the clear Ohio, never, I trust, to see the Mississippi more, saving in troubled dreams and nightmares. Leaving it for the company of its sparkling neighbour, was like the transition from pain to ease, or the awakening from a horrible vision to cheerful realities. We arrived at Louisville on the fourth night, and gladly availed ourselves of its excellent hotel. Next day we went on in the Ben Franklin, a beautiful mail steamboat, and reached Cincinnati shortly after midnight. Being by this time nearly tired of sleeping upon shelves, we had remained awake to go ashore straightway; and groping a passage across the dark decks of other boats, and among labyrinths of engine-machinery and leaking casks of molasses, we reached the streets, knocked up the porter at the >otel where we had stayed before, and were, to our great joy, safely housed soon after- wards. We rested but one day at Cincinnati, and then resumed our journey to Sandusky. As it comprised two varieties of stage-coach travelling, which, with those I have already glanced at, comprehend the main characteristics of this mode of transit in America, I will take the reader as our fellow-passenger, and pledge myself to perform the distance with all possible despatch. Our place of destination in the first instance is Columbus. It is distant about a hundred and twenty miles from Cincinnati, but there is a macadamised road (rare blessing!) the whole way, and the rate of travelling upon it is six miles an hour. ' We start at eight o'clock in the morning, in a great mail-coach, whose I uge cheeks are so very ruddy and plethoric, that it appears to be troubled with a tendency of blood to the head. Dropsical it certainly is, for it will hold a dozen passengers inside. But, wonderful to add, it is very clean and bright, being nearly new; and rattles through the streets of Cincinnati gaily. Our way lies through a beautiful country, richly cultivated, and luxuriant in its promise of an abundant harvest. Sometimes we pass a field where the strong bristling stalks of Indian corn look like a crop of walking-sticks, and sometimes an enclosure where the green wheat is springing up among a iabjorinth of stumps; the primitive worm-fence is universal, and an ugly thing it is; but the farms are American Notes 151 neatly kept and. save for these differences, one might be travelling just now m Kent. ^ We often stop to water at a roadside inn, which is always dull and silent. The coachman dismounts and fills his bucket, and holds It to the horses' heads. There is scarcely ever any one to help him- there are seldom any loungers standing round; and never any stable- company with jokes to crack. Sometimes, when we have changed our team, there is a difficulty in starting again, arising out of the prevalent mode of breaking a young horse: which is to catch him harness him against his will, and put him in a stage-coach without further notice: but we get on somehow or other, after a great many kicks and a violent struggle; and jog on as before again. Occasionally, when we stop to change, some two or three half- drunken loafers will come loitering out with then: hands in their pockets, or will be seen kicking their heels in rocking-chairs or lounging on the wmdow-sill, or sitting on a rail within the colonnade- they have not often anything to say though, either to us or to each other, but sit there idly staring at the coach and horses. The landlord of the mn is usually among them, and seems, of all the party, to be the least connected with the business of the house. Indeed he is with reference to the tavern, what the driver is in relation to the coach and passengers: whatever happens in his sphere of action he is quite indifferent, and perfectly easy in his mind. The frequent change of coachmen works no change or variety in the coachman's character. He is always durty. sullen, and taciturn. 11 he be capable of smartness of any kind, moral or physical, he has a faculty of concealing it which is truly marvellous. He never speaks to you as you sit beside him on the box, and if you speak to him he answers (if at all) in monosyllables. He points out nothing on the road and seldom looks at anything: being, to all appearance, thor- oughly weary of it and of existence generally. As to doing the honours of his coach, his business, as I have said, is with the horses. 1 he coach follows because it is attached to them and goes on wheels- not because you are in it. Sometimes, towards the end of a long stage' he suddenly breaks out into a discordant fragment of an election song, but his face never sings along with him: it is only his voice and not often that. ' He always chews and always spits, and never encumbers himself with a pocket-handkerchief. The consequences to the box passenger especially when the wind blows towards him, are not agreeable ' Whenever the coach stops, and you can hear the voices of the mside passengers; or whenever any bystander addresses them or any one among them; or they address each other; you will hear one phrase repeated over and over and over again to the most extra- ordinary extent. It IS an ordinary and unpromising phrase enough being neither more nor less than "Yes, sir;" but it is adapted +0 Sr^tioi^fThus-l"''"'''^''''^' ^"""^ ^^^" "P ^""^"^ pause ^in "the 152 American Notes !>■ The time is one o'clock at noon. The scene, a place where we are to stay and dine, on this journey. The coach drives up to the door cf an inn. The day is warm, and there are several idlers lingering about the tavern, and waiting for the public dinner. Among them, is a stout gentleman in a brown hat, swinging himself to and fro in a rocking-chair on the pavement. As the coach stops, a gentleman in a straw hat looks out of the window: Straw Hat. (To the stout gentleman in the rocking-chair.) 1 reckon that's Judge Jefferson, an't it? Brown Hat. (Still swinging; speaking very slowly; and without any emotion whatever.) Yes, sir. Straw Hat. Warm weather, Judge. Brown Hat. Yes, sir. Straw Hat. There was a snap of cold, last week. Brown Hat. Yes, «^ir. Straw Hat. Yes, sir. A. pause. They look at each other, very seriously. Straw Hat. I calculate you'll have got through that case of the corporation. Judge, by this time, now? Brown Hat. Yes, sir^ Straw Hat. How did the verdict go, sir? Brown Hat. For the defendant, sir. Straw Hat. ( Interrogatively.) Yes, sir? Brown Hat. (Affirmatively.) Yes, sir. Both. (Musingly, as each gazes down the street.) Yes, sir. Another pause. They look at each other again, still more seriously than before. Brown Hat. This coach is rather behind its time to-day, I guess. Straw Hat. (Doubtingly.) Yes, sir. Brown Hat. (Looking at his watch.) Yes, sir; nigh upon two hours. Straw Hat. (Raising his eyebrows in very great surprise.) Yes, sir! Brown Hat. (Decisively, as he puts up his watch.) Yes, sir. All the other inside Passengers. (Among themselves.) Yes, sir. Coachman. (In a very surly tone.) No it an't. Straw Hat. (To the coachman.) Well, I don't know, sir. We were a pretty tali time coming that last fifteen mile. That's a fact. The coachman making no reply, and plainly declining to enter into any controversy on a subject so far removed from his sympathies and feelings, another passenger says, "Yes, sir;" and the gentleman in the straw hat in acknowledgment of his courtesy, says "Yes, sir," to him, in return. The straw hat then inquires of the brown hat, whether that coach in which he (the straw hat) tiien sits, is not a new one? To wiisch the brown i^at again maices answer, j. es, sir. Straw Hat. I thought so. Pretty loud smell of varnish, sir? Brow: All ti Brow: The c< time pre out; and boarders As they ; but it is or mone^ reluctani but I ne induced quality c rather su by way spirituou of such tavern-k( Dinnei (for the journey; evening, supper; a through 1 (the draj a piece oi There be very mel head of i his wife a than per subjects ( In it we I when we hour or s( ton over table: to ■ selves the Sangrado a very bi and stati always sp with ver^ me how t away and this uncle he were t i^ American Notes 153 Brown Hat. Yes, sir. All the other inside Passengers. Yes, sir. Brown Hat. (To the company in general.) Yes, sir. The conversational powers of the company having been by this time pretty heavily taxed, the straw hat opens the door and gets out; and all the rest alight also. We dine soon afterwards with the boarders in the house, and have nothing to drink but tea and coffee. As they are both very bad and the water is worse, I ask for brandy; but it is a Temperance Hotel, and spirits are not to be had for love or money. This preposterous forcing of unpleasant drinks down the reluctant throats of travellers is not at all uncommon in America, but I never discovered that the scruples of such wincing landlords induced them to preserve any unusually nice balance between the quality of their fare, and their scale of charges: on the contrary, I rather suspected them of diminishing the one and exalting the other, by way of recompense for the loss of their profit on the sale of spirituous liquors. After ail, perhaps, the p' linest course for persons of such tender consciences, would be ,, total abstinence from tavern-keeping. Dinner over, we get into another vehicle which is ready at the door (for the coach has been changed in the interval), and resume our journey; which continues through the same kind of country until evening, when we come to the town where we are to stop for tea and supper; and having delivered the mail bags at the Post-office, ride through the usual wide street, lined with the usual stores and houses (the drapers always having hung up at their door, by way of sign, a piece of bright red cloth), to the hotel where this meal is prepared! There being many boarders here, we sit down, a large party, and a very melancholy one as usual. But there is a buxom hostess at the head of the table, and opposite, a simple Welsh schoolmaster with his wife and child; who came here, on a speculation of greater promise than performance, to teach the classics: and they are sufficient subjects of interest until the meal is over, and another coach is ready. In it we go on once more, lighted by a bright moon, until midnight; when we stop to change the coach again, and remain for half an hour or so in a miserable room, with a blurred lithograph of Washing- ton over the smoky fireplace, and a mighty jug of cold water on the table: to which refreshment the moody passengers do so apply them- selves that they would seem to be, one and all, keen patients of Dr. Sangrado. Among them is a very little boy, who chews tobacco like a very big one; and a droning gentleman, who talks arithmetically and statistically on all subjects, from poetry downwards; and who always speaks in the same key, with exactly the same emphasis, and with very grave deliberation. He came outside just now, and told me how that the uncle of a certain young lady who had been spirited away and married by a certain captain, lived in these parts; and how this uncle was so valiant and ferocious that he shouldn't wonder if he were to follow the said captain to England, "and shoot him dov/n }'j» : i 154 American Notes in the street wherever he found him," in the feasibility of which strong measure I. being for the moment rather prone to contradic- tion, from feeling half asleep and very tired, declined to acquiesce: assuring him that if the uncle did resort to it, or gratified any other little whim of the like nature, he would find himself one morning prematurely throttled at the Old Bailey: and that he would do well to make his will before he went, as he would certainly want it before he had been in Britain very long. On we go, all night, and by-and-by the day begins to break, and presently the first cheerful rays of the warm sun come slanting on us brightly. It sheds its light upon a miserable waste of sodden grass, and dull trees, and squalid huts, whose aspect is forlorn and grievous in the last degree. A very desert in the wood, whose growth of green is dank and noxious like that upon the top of standmg water: where poisonous fungus grows in the rare footprint on the oozy ground, and sprouts like witches' coral, from the crevices in the cabin wall and floor; it is a hideous thing to lie upon the very threshold of a city. But it was purchased years ago, and as the owner cannot be discovered, the State has been unable to reclaim it. So there it remains, in the midst of cultivation and improvement, like ground accursed, and m^-de obscene and rank by some great crime. We reached Columbus shortly before seven o'clock, and stayed there, to refresh, that day and night: having excellent apartments in a very lar-c unfinished hotel called the Neill House, which were richly fitted with the polished wood of the black walnut, and opened on a handsome portico and stone verandah, like rooms in some Italian mansion. The town is clean and pretty, and of course is "going to be" much larger. It is the seat of the State legislature of Ohio, and lays claim, in consequence, to some consideration and importance. There being no stage-coach next day, upon the road we wished to take, I hired "an extra," at a reasonable charge, to carry us to Tiffin; a small town from whence there is a railroad to Sandusky. This extra was an ordinary four-horse stage-coach, such as I have de- scribed, changing horses and drivers, as the stage-coach would, but was exclusively our own for the journe)^. To ensure our having horses at the proper stations, and being incommoded by no strangers, the proprietors sent an agent on the box, who was to accompany us the whole way through; and thus attended, and bearing with us, besides a hamper full of savoury cold meats, and fruit, and wine,' we started off again in high spirits, at half-past six o'clock next morning, very much delighted to be by ourselves, and disposed to enjoy even the roughest journey. It was well for us, that we were in this humour, for the road we went over that day, was certainly enough to have shaken tempers that were not resolutely at Set Fair, down to some inches below wtorm3\ At one time we were all fiung together in a heap at the bottom of the coach, and at another we were crushing our heads against were he of the t state, w eminen< "Unhar certain! so twisi fashion, circums with th nothing, expecte( getting called a into a m the jolts enough, body. It in any c to the tc was the we are approacl vehicle t Still, i though A leaving 1 alighted on a fall and our like grai: commissi As nig at last it find his A that ther a wheel \ he was fa upon the from fur horses ha for that; such a V along, qu These s The vary grows da] American Notes 155 against the roof. Now. one side was down deep in the ..lire, and we were holding on to the other. Now. the coach was lying on the tails of the two wheelers; and now it was rearing up in the air. in a frantic state, with all four horses standing on tke top of an insurmountable eminence. looking coolly back at it, as though they would sav Unharness us. It can't be done." The drivers on these roads who certainly get over the ground in a manner which is quite miraculous so twist and turn the team about in forcing a passage, corkscrew fashion, through the bogs and swamps, that it was quite a common circumstance on looking out of the window, to see the coachman with the ends of a pair of reins in his hands, apparently driving nothing, or playing at horses, and the leaders scaring at one un- expectedly from the back of the coach, as if they had some idea of getting up behind. A great portion of the way was over what is called a corduroy road, which is made by throwing trunks of trees mto a marsh, and leaving them to settle there. The very slightest of the jolts with which the ponderous can ge fell from log to log was enough, it seemed, to have dislocated all the bones in the human body. It would be impossible to experience a similar set of sensations in any other circumstances, unless perhaps in attempting to go up to the top of St. Paul's in an omnibus. Never, never once that dav was the coach in any position, attitude, or kind of motion to which we are accustomed in coaches. Never did it make the smallest approach to one's experience of the proceedings of anv sort of vehicle that goes on wheels. Still, it was a l.ne day. and the temperature was delicious and though we had left Summer behind us in the west, and were fast leaving Spring, we were moving towards Niagara and homr We alighted in a pleasant wood towards the middle of the day dined on a fallen tree, and leaving our best fragments with a cottager and our worst with the pigs (who swarm in this part of the countr^^ like grains of sand on the sea-shore, to the great comfort of our commissariat in Canada), we went forward again, gaily. As night came on, the track grew narrower and narrower until at last it so lost Itself among the trees, that the driver seemed to find his way by instinct. We had the comfort of knowing at least that there was no danger of his falling asleep, for every now' and then a wheel would strike against an unseen stump with such a jerk that he was fain to hold on pretty tight and pretty quick, to keep himself upon the box. Nor was there any reason to dread the least danger from furious driving, inasmuch as over that broken ground the horses had enough to do to walk; as to shying, there was no room for that; and a herd of wild elephants could not have run away in such a wood, with such a coach at their heels. So we stumbled along, quite satisfied. These stumps of trees are a curious featnrA in Amorio-ir, +^o,,«ii:-„ I he varymg illusions they present to the unaccustomed eye as it grows dark, are quite astonishing in their number and reality. Now, m-ii 1 ' E I 156 American Notes :t* ( f SI* T ( kill' there is a Grecian urn erected in the centre of a lonely field; now there is a woman weeping at a tomb; now a very commonplace old gentle- man in a white waistcoat, with a thumb thrust into each arm-hole of his coat; now a student poring on a book; now a crouching negro; now, a horse, a dog, a cannon, an armed man; a hunch-back throw- ing off his cloak and stepping forth into the light. They were often as entertaining to me as so many glasses in a magic lantern, and never took their shapes at my bidding, but seemed to force them- selves upon me, whether I would or no; and strange to say, I some- times recognised in them counterparts of figures once familiar to me in pictures attached to childish books, forgotten long ago. It soon became too dark, however, even for this amusement, and the trees were so close together that their dry branches rattled against the coach on either side, and obliged us all to keep our heads within. It lightened too, for three whole hours; each flash being very bright, and blue, and long; and as the vivid streaks came darting in among the crowded branches, and the thunder rolled gloomily above the tree tops, one could scarcely help thinking that there were better neighbourhoods at such a time than thick woods afforded. At length, between ten and eleven o'clock at night, a few feeble lights appeared in the distance, and Upper Sandusky, an Indian village, where we were to stay till morning, lay before us. They were gone to bed at the log Inn, which was the only house of entertainment in the place, but soon answered to our knocking, and got some tea for us in a sort of kitchen or common room, tapestried with old newspapers, pasted against the wall. The bed- chamber to which my wife - nd I were shown, was a large, low, ghostly room; with a quantity of withered branches on the hearth' and two doors without any fastening, opposite to each other, both opening on the black night and wild country, and so contrived, that one of them always blew the other open; a novelty in domestic architecture, which I do not remember to have seen before, and which I was somewhat disconcerted to have forced on my attention after getting into bed, as I had a considerable sum in gold for our travelling expenses, in my dressing-case. Some of the luggage, how- ever, piled against the panels, soon settled this difficulty, and my sleep would not have been very much affected that night, I believe, though it had failed to do so. My Boston friend climbed up to bed, somewhere in the roof, where another guest was already snoring hugely. But being bitten beyond his power of endurance, he turned out &.gain, and fled for shelter tc the coach, which was airing itself in front of the house. This was not a very politic step, as it turned out; for the pigs scenting him, and looking upon the coach as a kind of pie with some manner of meat inside, grunted round it so hideously, that he was afraid to come out again, and lay there shivering, till morning. N'^r was it possible to warm hirn, when he did come out, by means of a glass of brandy: for in Indian villages, the legislature, with a very good and '.vise inte precautic to procu] pedlars. It is a Among t had been in condu( eluded a in consid some Ian way beyc attachme to the bi to leave with pair The ques- among tl the logs c speaking and even known, t] withdrew We me ponies. T have seer matter of people. Leavin; again, ov arrived a two o'cloi slow, its marshy; j put up at there thai a steamb sluggish a an Englis Our hos able, was from New When I s{ his hat on and lay dc and read i of the cou been disaj American Notes 157 '.vise intention, forbids the sale of spirits by tavern keepers. The precaution, however, is quite inefficacious, for the Indians never fail to procure liquor of a worse kind, at a dearer price, from travelling pedlars. It is a settlement of the Wyandot Indians who inhabit this place. Among the company at breakfast was a mild old gentleman, who had been for many years employed by the United States Government m conducting negotiations with the Indians, and who had just con- cluded a treaty with these people by which they bound themselves, in consideration of a certain annual sum, to remove next year to some land piwyided for them, west of the Mississippi, and a little way beyond St. Louis. He gave me a moving account of their strong attachment to the familiar scenes of their infancy, and in particular to the burial-places of their kindred; and of their great reluctance to leave them. He had witnessed many such removals, and always with pain, though he knew that they departed for their own good. The question whether this tribe should go or stay, had been discussed among them a day or two before, in a hut erected for the purpose, the logs of which still lay upon the ground before the inn. When the speaking was done, the ayes and noes were ranged on opposite sides, and every male adult voted in his turn. The moment the result was known, the minority (a large one) cheerfully yielded to the rest, and withdrew all kind of opposition. We met some of these poor Indians afterwards, riding on shaggy ponies. They were so like the meaner sort of gipsies, that if I could have seen any of them in England. I should have concluded, as a matter of course, that they belonged to that wandering ani restless people. Leaving this town directly after breakfast, we pushed forward agam, over a rather worse road than yesterday, if possible, and arrived about noon at Tiffin, where we parted with the extra. At two o'clock we took the railroad; the travelling on which was very slow, its construction being indifferent, and the ground wet and marshy; and arrived at Sandusky in time to dine that evening. We put up at a comfortable little hotel on the brink of Lake Erie, lay there that night, and had no choice but to wait there next day, until a steamboat bound for Buffalo appeared. The town, which was sluggish and uninteresting enough, was something hke the back of an English watering-place, out of the season. Our host, who was very attentive and anxious to make us comfort- able, was a handsome middle-aged man, who had come to this town from New England, in which part of the country he was "raised." When I say that he constantly walked in and out of the room with his hat on; and stopped to converse in the same free-and-easy state; and lay down on our sofa, and pulled his newspaper out of his pocket, and read it at his ease; I merely mention these traits as characteristic of the country: not at ail as being matter of complaint, or as having been disagreeable to me. I should undoubtedly be offended by such 1^ 1 t| 158 American Notes Hil' proceedings at home, because there they are not the custom, and where they are not, they would be impertinencies; but in America, the only desire of a good-natured fellow of this kind, is to treat his guests hospitably and well; and I had no more right, and I can truly say no more disposition, to measure his conduct by our English rule and standard, than I had to quarrel with him for not being of the exact p';ature which would qualify him for admission into the Queen's grenadier guards. As little inclination had I to find fault with a funny old lady who was an upper domestic in this establishment, and who, when she came to wait upon us at any meal, sat herself down com- fortably in the most convenient chair, and producing a large pin to pick her teeth with, remained performing that ceremony, and stead- fastly regarding us meanwhile with much gravity and composure (now and then pressing us to eat a little more), until it was time to clear away. It was enough for us, that whatever we wished done was done with great civility and readiness, and a desire to oblige, not only here, but everywhere else; and that all our wants were, in general, zealously anticipated. We were taking an early dinner at this house, on the day after our arrival, which was Sunday, when a steamboat came in sight, and presently touched at the wharf. As she proved to be on her way to Buffalo, we hurried on board with all speed, and soon left Sandusky far behind us. She was a large vessel of five hundred tons, and handsomely fitted up, though with high-pressure engines; which always conveyed that kind of feeling to me, which I should be likely to experiencfe, I think, if I had lodgings on the first-floor of a powder-mill. She was laden with flour, some casks of which commodity were stored upon the deck. The captain coming up to have a little conversation, and to introduce a friend, seated himself astride of one of these barrels, like a Bacchus of private life; and pulling a great clasp-knife out of his pocket, began to "whittle" it as he talked, by paring thin slices off the edges. And he whittled with such industry and hearty good will, that but for his being called away very soon, it must have disap- peared bodily, and left nothing in its place but grist f^nd shavings. After calling at one or two flat places, with low dams stretching out into the lake, whereon were stumpy lighthouses, like windmills without sails, the whole looking like a Dutch vignette, we came at midnight to Cleveland, where we lay all night, and until nine o'clock next morning. I entertained quite a curiosity in reference to this place, from having s an at Sandusky a specimen of its literature in the shape of a newspaper, which was very strong indeed upon the subject of Lord Ashburton's recent arrival at Washington, to adjust the points in dispute between tne United States Government and Great Britain: informing its readers that as America had "whipped" England in her sary that she must whip her once again in her maturity; and pledging its credil the appr( in doubh Doodle i Westmin beholdinj just quot the parai man in h There learned 1 from the unwittinf or wherei dissatisfy ludicrous and couk leaned up my dear. "Boz kee not very done with elapsed, c from side "I suppoj all our m board a b We call there an Buffalo, V to wait p; morning s It was J the trees ; the train 1 my eyes ir the river behold th( I saw two the depth! then for t the groun( The bai melted ice bottom, ai and had j< half-blind« of the Am< American Notes 159 ftffl'j Its credit to all True Americans, that if Mr. Webster did his duty in the approaching negotiations, and sent the English Lord home again in double quick time, they should, within two years, sing "Yankee Doodle m Hyde Park, and Hail Columbia in the scarlet courts of Westminster!" I found it a pretty town, and had the satisfaction of beholding the outside of the office of the journal from which I 1 ve just quoted. I did not enjoy the delight of seeing the wit who indited the paragraph in question, but I have no doubt he is a prodigious man m his way, and held in high repute by a select circle. There was a gentleman on board, to whom, as I uniatentionally learned through the thin partition which divided our state-room froni the cabin in which he and his wife conversed together, I was unwittingly the occasion of very great uneasiness. I don't know why or wherefore, but I appeared to run in iiis mind perpetually, and to dissatisfy him very much. First of all I heard him cay: an. I the most ludicrous part of the business was, that he said it in my very ear, and could not have communicated more directly with me, if he had leaned upon my shoulder, and whispered me: 'Boz is m board still, my dear." After a considerable pause, he added, com >lainingly, • Boz keeps himself very < 'ose;" which was true enough, for I was not very well, and was i>in^' down, with a book. I thotg'r.t he had done with me T,fter this, but I was deceived; for a long inter val having elapsed, dur ag which I imai^ine him to have been +urnini' restlessly from side to side, and trying to go to sleep; he broke out I'^'ain, with I suppose that Boz will be writing a book by-and-by, and putting all our names in it!" at which imaginarj^ consequence of boing on board a boat with Boz, he groaned, and became silent. We called at the town of Erie, at eight o'clock that night, and lay there an hour. Between five and Six next morr' g, we arrived at Buffalo, where we breakfasted; and being too near the Great Falls to wait patiently anywhere else, wf. set off by the train, the same morning at nine o'clock, to Niagara. It was a miserable day; chilly and raw; a damp mist falling- and the trees m that northern region quite bare and . Intry. Whenever the train halted, I listened for the roar; and was constantly straining my eyes in the direction where I knew the Falls must be, frr .;n seeing the river rolling on towards them; every moment expecting to behold the spray. Within a few minutes of our stopping, not before I saw two great white clouds rising up slowly and majestically from the depths of the earth. That was all. At length we alighted- and then for the first time, I heard the mighty rush of water, and felt the ground tremble underneath my feet. The bank is very steep, and was slippery with rain, and half- melted ice. I hardly know how I got down, but I was soon at the bottom, and climbing, with two English officers wio were crossing and had joined me, over some broken rocks, deafened by the noise Iialf-hlinHprl hir ■t-'ho. c-nm^r riry^ wSi. to tiic skin. we were at tne loot 01 the American Fall. I could see an immense torrent of water tearing ?* ,• I a f. i6o American Notes II lieacllong down from some great height, but had no idea of shape, or situation, or anything but vague immensity. When we were seated in the little ferry-boat, and were crossing the swollen river immediately before both cataracts, I began to feel what It was: but I was in p. manner stunned, and unable to comprehend the vastness of the scene: It was not until I came on Table Rock, and ooked— Great Heaven, on what a fall of bright-green water!— that it came upon me m its full might and majesty. rhen. when I felt how near to my Creator I was standing, the first eltect, and the enduring one— instant and lasting— of the tremendous spectacle, was Peace. Peace of Mind, tranquillity, calm recollections o the Dead, great thoughts of Eternal iiest and Happiness: nothing ot gloom or terror. Niagara was at once stamped upon my heart, an image of Beauty; to remain there, changeless and indc ble. until its p\Mses cease to beat, for ever. Oh how the strife and trouble of daily life receded from mv view and lessened in the distance, during the ten memorable days we passed on that Enchanted Ground! V/hat -oices spoke from out the thundering water; what faces, faded from tae earth, looked out upon me from its gleaming depths; what Heavenly promise glistened in those angeis tears, the drops of many hues, that showered around and twined themselves about the gorgeous arches which the changing lainbows made! ° ° I never stirred in all that time from the Canadian side, whither I nad gone at first. I never crossed the river again; for I knew there were people on the other shore, and in such a place it is natural to Shan strange company. To wander to and fro all day. and see the cataracts from all points of view; to stand upon the edge of the great Horse-Shoe Fall, marking the hurried water gathering strength as t approached the verge, yet seeming, too, to pause before it shot into the gulf below; to gaze from the river's level up at the torrent as It came streaming down; to climb the neighbouring heights and watch It through the trees, and see the wreathing water in the rapids hurrying on to take its fearful plunge; to linger in the shadow of the solemn rocks three miles below; watching the river as, stirred bv no visible cause. It heaved and eddied and awoke the echoes, being troubled yet. far down beneath the surface, by its giant leap; to have iSiagam before iie. lighted by the sun and by the moon, red in the flay s decline, and grey as evening slowly fell upon it; to look upon It every day, and wake up in the night and hear its ceaseless voice- this was enough. I think in every quiet season now, still do those waters roll and r.?-,' ^" .k""^' ""l'"^ *.""\^^^' ^^^ ^^y ^°"g' «till are the rainbows spanning them, a hundred leet below. Still, when the sun is on them do they shme and glow like mo'.en gold. Still, when the day is gloomy do they fall like snow, or seem to crumble away like the front of a great chalk cliff, or roll down the rock like dense white "' --"- "^^''"j'a uoca fciiu raigaty stream appear to die as it comes down, a dous gh< this plac the dee] rushing IN CANA] IN T WES' I WISH t( parallel \ ard thosi shall conl latter ter But bei stance wJ traveller On Tal little relic names in which a g request is remarks a here." But for on which drawing-n certain sta framed an this annot preserved, with the ^ delighted i Itishun so obscene able profai But that tl swine, and disgrace to I hope few reproach to The qua] 324 American Notes j^j this place with the same dread soIemnitrsTnce LTknes^^^^^^^ the deep, and that first flood be W the DelJee Ti^^^^^^^ rushing on Creation at the word of God. ^^^"8^— Light— came CHAPTER XV IN CANADA; TORONTO; KINGSTON; MONTREAL' QUEBEC «;t t^^xxt'o IN THE UNITED STAnT<5 Ar-ATM. r t^t, . «UtBEC, ST. JOHNS. WEST POINT ' ^^^^N°N; '^HE shaker VILLAGE; shall confine myself to a verTbrief account nfnf; °' *""' ''=^'°°' ' latter territory ^ account of our journeyings in the stanch whth carSrdiXvclrcSf tlfo^" °"^ f'''"f^^« "-— traveller who has visited the FaS ""-''"ation of any decent litt°e%lHc"he'p?aS'ie''soH"rH''l°"^'"? *° ^ Guide, where names in a book\e^rL%he 'urpo"e On th^'^'T /!P'^^ *>>"' which a great man/of these%S:-a?e"preteTved1hefo^^^^^^ request is posted: "Visitors will r,lP«<=A r^^+ ' lollowing r^ar.s anS poetical e^^LltSTe ^i^^^^^ 0^^^':^^:;^ wrca-^^fuVfeisr rv^or-"- fhr:ir„ct?„t-to-ftS^^^^^^^^^ sooVs^nfShTe^fth^t'^hTvtn^'^^^^^^^^ able profanatiorupoT the lery^tens : '^ ^'^^'"^ *"" '"'^"- But that these should be hoarded . p (or the deirh? n?S* w n*"^' swme, and kept in a public place where any eyes mavLetif-^^^ disgrare to the English laneuaire in ^hiXZu ^ ^^ *'='"• "^ » I hope few of thesf entr^fesSbeen 4ade I f17h"'" f*""^'' reproach to the Enoii.i, .;a„ t_ ..° : ° 7?*^^ "^ Englishmen), and a Xh^^«-o?our soldic;;;rNilg2a!'LrfiSf and airily i il :- r l62 American Notes #1 ii f situated. Some of them are large detached houses on the plain above the Falls, which were originally designed for hotels; and in the even- ing time, when the women and children were leaning over the balconies watching the men as they played at ball and other games upon the grass before, the door, they often presented a little picture of cheerfulness and animation which made it quite a pleasure to pass that way. At any garrisoned point where the line of demarcation between one country and another is so very narrow as at Niagara, desertion from the ranks can scarcely fail to be of frequent occurrence: and it may be reasonably supposed that when the soldiers entertain the wildest and maddest hopes of the fortune and independence that await them on the other side, the impulse to play traitor, which such a place suggests to dishonest minds, is not weakened. But it very rarely happens that the men who do desert, are happy or contented afterwards; and many instances have been known in which they have confessed their grievous disappointment, and their earnest desire to return to their old service if they could but be assured of pardon, or lenient treatment. Many of their comrades, notwith- standmg, do the like, from time to time; and instances of loss of life in the effort to cross the river with this object, are far from being uncommon. Several men were drowned in the attempt to swim across, not long ago; and one, who had the madness to trust himself upon a table as a raft, was swept down to the whirlpool, where his mangled body eddied round and round some days. I am inclined to think that the noise of the Falls is very much exaggerated; and this will appear the more probable when the depth of the great basin in which the water is received, is taken into account. At no time during our stay there, was the wind at all high or boisterous, but we never heard them, three miles off, even at the very quiet time of sunset, though we often tried. Queenston, at whxh place the steamboats start for Toronto (or I should rather say at which place they call, for their wharf is at Lewiston, on the opposite shore), is situated in a delicious valley, through which the Niagara river, in colour a very deep green, pursues its course. It is approached by a road that takes its winding way among the heights by which the town is sheltered; and seen from this point is extremely beautiful and picturesque. On the most con- spicuous of these heights stood a monument erected by the Provincial Legislature in memory of General Brock, who was slain in a battle with the American forces, after having won the victory. Some vagabond, supposed to be a fellow of the name of Lett, who is now, or who lately was, in prison as a felon, blew up this monument two years ago, and it is now a melancholy ruin, with a long fragment of iron railing hanging dejectedly from its top, and waving to and fro like a wild ivy branch or broken vine stem. It is of much higher importance than it may seem, that this statue should be repaired at the public cost, as it ought to have been long ago. Firstly, because American Notes 163 very spot where he died Sec^^^^^^ Ss" "he sT^hT.'''^ ' ^ *^^ sent state, and the recollectir . nf fh« the sight o. it m its pre- broiicrhf if fr. +V,,- ^^^°V^<^"o 1 of the unpunished outrage which S Sir a ■."-«"i".sr ;™ trJ wife was collecting her few goods WeihZ I " " sergeant's eye hard upon the%ortersT&e°lhXTn;S Tboard'^l the other on a hoooless wac;hina f^K ^^^ u- u , ? board, and utteriy worthless :ftrLro™rs"'hee:medVen^^ wLf rboaT^""-^" '''"'' °-- '°" ^X^'- -^-^ ' rruit-Sin^^uTan^d attrMs'?hrS.«nTt\^^^^^^^^^^^ st^^anTc;^;:rrat-o2;^o~^^^ contmually, like a roaring idle dog as ..e was. ^ """^ ^"""^^^ The soldiers rather Iaugh«d at this blade than with him- seeming t„ requu-ed to tell it, they had him out again, fe^et first wUSTe taSs o? 1 he half-sobered recruit glanced round for a moment as if his fir«f s^LTtifh s^<^:is^:^:^r'T^^ '" P^sented to h™ with an oath ?y tLToSS :"ho t^lf^Tfj?.! -10.. anxious of the party, he stuck it in his mouth thru"st h'ishkndl mto his mo.st pockets, and without even shaking the wateiofflt I 1*1 i I f [ ! i64 American Notes clothes, walked on board whistling; not to say as if nothing had happened, but as if he had meant to do it. and it had been a perfect success. Our steamboat came up directly this had left the wharf, and soon bore us to the mouth of the Niagara; where the stars and stripes of America flutter on one side and the Union Jack of England on the other; and so narrow is the space between them that the sentinels in either fort can often hear the watchword of the other country given. Thence we emerged on Lake Ontario, an inland sea; and by half-past six o'clock were at Toronto. The country round this town being very Hat, is bare of scenic interest; but the town itself is full of life and motion, bustle, business, and improvement. The streets are well paved, and lighted with gas; the houses are large and good; the shops excellent. Many of them have a display of goods in their windows, such as may be seen in thriving county towns in l^:ngl.and; and there are some which would do no discredit to the metropolis itself. There is a good stone prison here; and there are, besides, a handsome church, a court-house, public offices, many commodious private residences, and a government observatory for noting and recording the magnetic variations. In the College of Upper Canada, which is, one of the public establishments of the city, a sound education in every department of polite learning can be had, at a very moderate expense: the annual charge for the instruction of each pupil, not exceeding nine pounds sterling. It has pretty good endowments in the way of land, and is a valuable and useful institu- tion. The first stone of a new college had been laid but a few days before, by the Governor General. It will be a handsome, spacious edifice,' approached by a long avenue, which is already planted and made available as a public walk. The town is well adapted for wholesome exercise at all seasons, for the footways in the thoroughfares which lie beyond the principal street, are planked like floors, and kept in very good and clean repair. It is a matter of deep regret that political differences should have run high in this place, and led to most discreditable and disgraceful results. It is not long since guns were distharged from a window in this town at the successful candidiites in an election, and the coach- man of one of them was actually shot in the body, though not danger- ously wounded. But one man was killed on the same occasion; and from the very window whence he received his death, the ver^^^ flag which shielded his murderer (not only in the commission of his crime, but from its consequences), vvas displayed again on the occasion of the public ceremony performed by the Governor General, to which I have just adverted. Of all the colours in the rainbow, there is but one which could be so employed: I need not say that flag was orange. The time of leaving Toronto for Kingston is noon. By eight o'clock next morning, the traveller is at the end of his journey, which is perforn Coburg flour fo fewer t Coburg The 1 a very market- Kingsto half not commoc neighbo There excellen shoemal stonecul advance necdlewi been the for the Insurrec stays; so lining of would, w any man in those appropri this offer face, thoi there wa sharply f There bold posi the town imagine, small na' building, We left in the mo river. Th especially among th and const their fluct among fch< small thai variety oi forms whi "Inrlf American Notes 165 ewer than one thousand and eighty barrels on hn'^ Coburg and Kingston. ^ fe"'-/ oarreis on board, between The latter place, which is now the seat of crov<-rnm^nf ir. r j • a very poor town, rendered still cooilr if Ihl Canada, is sirs- " •--fsr.r;Kr,r„7r:s:g;; z Insurrection: sometimes dressing as a rW and car^fnt th ■ f " stays; sometimes attiring herself at a hm/ ^Z '=*'^'^ "8 '^em in her lining of her hat. In thf S'c^aractJr she' iwlyfr^ Je\" 'a\t Jl^otiSon^rd^^^^^^^^^^^ StergSii^rfjiTvigSr/ <^~ -is^oSst-er: small that they are mere dimples on its hm^r] hoc^^v,. Vv,.-! :-?:.!° S whfrh'^rt' ^^^ *^^. "'""^berless comSinatio'ns ^T be^S torms which the trees growing on them present: all form a pk ture L< ',! i66 American Noter fraught with uncommon interest and pleasure. i\*^vx.^^*^"'°°" ^® ^^°* ^°^*^ so'^^ raP^cls where the river boiled and bubbled strangely, and where the force and headlong violence of the current were tremendous. Atseveno'ciOCkwereache(' Dickenson's l^andmg, whence travellers proceed for two or three hours by stage- ^vS?" 1.*^® navigation of the rive, being rendered so dangerous and difficult m the mterval. by rapids, that steamboats do not make the passage. The number and length of tnose portages, over which the roads are bad, and the travelling slow, render the way between the towns of Montreal and Kingston, somewhat tedious. Our course lay over a wide, uninclosed tract of country at a little distance from the river-side, whence the uright warning lights on the dangerous parts of he St Lawrence shone vividly. The night was dark and raw. and the way dreary enou-h. It was neariy ten o'clock when we reached the wh-^rf where the next steamboat lay; and went on board, and to bed. She lay there all right, and started as soon as it M^as day The morning was ushered m by a violent tli understorm. and was very wet but gradually improved and brightened up. Going on deck after breakfast, I was amazed to see floating down with the stream a most gigantic raft, with somcthirty or forty wooden houses upon it, and at least as many flagmasts. so that it looked like a nautical street. I saw many of^these rafts afterwards, but never one so large. All the timber or lumber, ' as it is called 'n America, which is brought down the St' -Lawrence, is floated down in this manner. When the raft reaches its place of destination, it is broken up; the materials are sold; and the boatmen return for more. At eight we landed again, and travelled by a stage-coach for four hours through a pleasant .ad well-cultivated country, perfectlv French m every respect: in the appearance of the cottages; the air language, and dress of the peasantry; the sign-boards on the shops and taverns: and the Virgin's shrines, and crosses, by the wayside Nearly every common labourer and boy, though he had no shoes to his feet wore round his waist a sash of some bright colour: generallv red: and the women, who were working in the fields and gardens, and doing all kinds of husbandry, wore, one and all, great fiat straw hats with most capacious brims. There were Catholic Priests and Sisters of Charity m the village streets; and images of the Saviour at the comers ot cross-roads, and in other public places. At noon we went on board another steamboat, and reached the village of Lachine, nine miles from Montreal, by three o'clock There we left the river, and went on by land. Montreal is pleasantly situated on the margin of the St. Lawrence and is backed by some bold heights, about which there are charming rides and drives. The streets are generally narrow and irregular, as in most French towns of any age; but in the more modern parts of the — 'j "r-^ """" "/^"^ "'"'^ °'"-y- ■^"^>' uispiay a great variety of very- good shops; and both in the town and suburbs there are many exceller their be Then with tw in front tower, \ wiseacre immedii Kingsto is a plai road it i ing by t a day's 1 The s- is to saj Quebec j in Mont: interest , The i America air; its ] splendid unique a It is a places, o recall. A] associatii interest, and his 1 where he defended alive, by among tl: and wort both bra'' The cil charities, Governm lies. The mountain with mile veins alo] chimney \ St. Lawn ships belo like spide: decks dwi all this, frj American Notes 167 St^^rso^^^^^^^ ^-^^ ^-ys are re.ar.able for iTeacr^ o? lit ^i^^^^'k* ^""^ ^^"^^^^able appearancefand which the Tr^ZTfJ *it^ ^.''^ ^^""^ consequently determined to pull down immediately The Government House is very superior to that at s a ?la"k 'road no^tT 'l '1^' f ^ ^"' ^^^*^^^" -^ ^^ ^^^ -^ ioad it IS too l^fh. ^°«*P^*J;r-fi^« or six miles long, and a famous roaa It IS too. All the rides in the vicinity were made doublv interest- TLJ'^" ^7'''"? °"' °^ ^P"^^' ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^ «« rapid. thatTtrbut a day 3 leap from barren win , to the blooming youth of summer The steamboats to Quebec perform the journey in the S? that n ^r^^y'^^^y ^^^^^ Montreal at six in the evening, and f rriVe at guebec at six next morning. We made this excursion during oTr stay intfrLfanJ ^a'ity.^^^^^'^' ^ ^^^^^^^^^^' ^^ ^^ ^^^^-^ ^^^tl The impression made upon the visitor by this Gibraltar of America: its giddy heights; its citadel suspended, as it weT in the air; its picturesque steep streets and frowning gateways and the t^^^i:^:^-^'^ ^"-* "p- '^^ ^y^ ^^ --y turZ isi^o^^: recall. Apart from the realities of this most picturesque city, there are fn w^f Th '^r*'""^ ^^°^* ^* ^^^^^ ^^"^'^ "^^k^ a dessert rkh [n interest. The dangerous precipice along whose rocky front. Wolfe where'^hp'r Jrir^J^r^''' "i^^"^ *^ ^^^^^' *^« ^^^^^ ^^ Abraham. H / !^ ^ K f.'''^'^ ^'^ "'^'^^^^ ^°""d; the fortress so chivalrously aUve bv tL^r'?"^' ^."^ \^^f Idler's grave, dug for him whHe yit ahv^e. by the bursting of a shell; are not the least among them or among the gal ant incidents of history. That is a noble MonumenUoo and worthy of two great nations, ^vhich perpetuates the memory of both brave generals, and on which their names are jointly writterT rh.Hfil^ Vl '"^ P"^^/^ institutions and in Catholic churches and chanties, but it is mamly m the prospect from the site of the Old Government House, and from the Citadel, that its surpassing beauty lies. Ihe exquisite expanse of country, rich in field and forest vp?n.^ Of Canadian villages, glancing in long white streaks, like veins along the landscape; the motley crowd of gables, roofs and chimney tops m the old hilly town immediately at hand; the beat'itiful bt. Lawrence sparkling and flashing in the sunlight; and tl, tiny ships below the rock from which you gaze, whose distant riggim^ looks like spiders' webs against the light. M-hile casks nnd harr.i! .;: ^hig lu^h^^T'^'^^^ft^'' toys and busy mariners become so many puppets; an this, framed by a sunken window in the fortress and looked at from i68 American Notes \U'i I ii the shadowed room within, forms one of the brightest and most enchantmg pictures that the eye can rest upon. In the spring of the year, vast numbers of emigrants who have newly arrived from England or from Ireland, pass between Quebec and Montreal on their way to the backwoods and new settlements of Canada. If it be an entertaining lounge (as I very often found it) to take a morning stroll upon the quay at Montreal, and see them grouped in hundreds on the public wharfs about their chests and boxes It IS matter of deep interest to be their fellow-passenger on one of these steamboats, and mingling with the concourse, see and hear them unobserved. The vessel in which we returned from Quebec to Montreal was crowded with them, and at night they spread their beds between decks (those who had beds, at least), and slept so close and thick about our cabin door, that the passage to and fro was quite blocked up. I hey were nearly all English; from Gloucestershire the greater part; and had had a long winter-passage out; but it was wonderful to see how clean the children had been kept, and how untiring in their love and self-denial all the poor parents were. Cant as we may, and as we shall to the end of all things it is very much harder for the poor to be virtuous than it is for the rich; and the good that IS m them, shines the brighter for it. In many a noble mansion lives a man, the best of husbands and of fathers, whose private worth in both cap: cities is justly lauded to the skies. But bring him here upon this crowded deck. Strip from his fair young wife her silken dress and jewels, unbind her braided hair, stamp early wrinkles on her brow, pincn ner pale chf;ek with care and much privation, array her faded form in coarsely patched attire, let there be nothing but his love to set her forth or deck her out, and you shall put it to the proof indeed. So change his station in the world, that he shall see in those young things wno climb about his knee: not records of his wealth and name: but little wrestlers with him for his daily bread; so many poachers on his scanty meal; so many units to divide his every sum of comfcrt, and farther to reduce its small amount. In lieu of the endearments of childhood in its sweetest aspect, heap upon him all its pains and wants, its sicknesses and ills, its fretfulness, caprice, and querulous endurance: let its prattle be, not of engaging infant fancies, but of cold, and thirst, and hunger: and if his fatherly affection outlive all this, and he be patient, watchful, tender; careful of his children's lives, and mindful always of their joys and sorrows; then send him back to Parliament, and Pulpit, and to Quarter Sessions, and when he hears fine talk of the depravity of those who live from hand to mouth, and labour hard to do it, let him speak up, as one who knows, and tell those holders forth that they, by parallel with such a class, should be High Angels in their daily lives, and lay but humble siege to Heaven at last. Which of us shall say what he v/ould be, if such realities, with small relief or change all through his days, were his 1 Looking round upon American Notes 169 these people: far from home, houseless, indigent, wandering, weary with travel and hard living: and seeing how patiently they nursed and tended their young children: how they consulted ever their wants first, then half supplied their own; what gentle ministers of hope and faith the women were; how the men profited by their example; and how very, very seldom even a moment's petulance or harsh complaint broke out among them: I felt a stronger love and honour of my kind come glowing on my heart, and wished to God there had been many Atheists in the better part of human nature there, to read this simple lesson in the book of Life. We left Montreal for New York again, on the thirtieth of May; crossing to La Prairie, on the opposite shore of the St. Lawrence, in a steamboat; we then took the railroad to St. John's, which is on the brink of Lake Champlain. Our last greeting in Canada was from the English officers in the pleasant barracks at that place (a class of gentlemen who had made every hour of our visit memorable by their hospitality and friendship); and with "Rule Britannia" sounding in our ears, soon left it far behind. But Canada has held, and always will retain, a foremost place in my remembrance. Few Englishmen are prepared to find it what it is. Advancing quietly; old differences settling down, and being fast forgotten; public feeling and private enterprise alike in a sound and wholesome state; nothing of flush or fever in its system, but health and vigour throbbing in its steady pulse: it is full of hope and promise. To me who had been accustomed to think of it as something left behind in the strides of advancing society, as something neglected and forgotten, slumbering and wasting in its sleep — the demand for labour and the rates of wages; the busy quays of Montreal; the vessels taking in their cargoes, and discharging them; the amount of shipping in the different ports; the commerce, roads, and public works, all made to last; the respectability and character of the public journals; and the amount of rational comfort and happiness which honest industry may earn: were very great surprises. The steamboats on the lakes, in their conveniences, cleanliness, and safety; in the gentle- manly character and bearing of their captains; and in the politeness and perfect comfort of their social regulations; are unsurpassed even by the famous Scotch vessels, deservedly so much esteemed at home. The inns are usually bad; because the custom of boarding at hotels is not so general here as in the States, and the British officers, who form a large portion of the society of every town, live chiefly at the regimental messes: but in every other respect, the traveller in Canada will find as good provision for his comfort as in any place I know. There is one American boat — the vessel which carried us on Lake Champlain, from St. John's to Whitehall — which I praise very highly, but no more than it deserves, when I say that it is superior even to that in which we went from Queenston to Toronto, or to that in which we travelled from the latter place to Kingston, or I have no 324* ^1 % 1 '1 I isff 1 !!• ^ I 170 American Notes ! Uf A canprf Jh?^ r ^? ^"^ ''*^^' '" ^^^ ^°^^^- This steamboat, which is called the Burlington is a perfectly exquisite achievement of neat ness elegance, and order. The decks ar2 drawing-rooms the cabins are boudoirs, choicely furnished and adorned with prinV pictures and musical instruments; every nock and corner in^tl^e ie^sd S F.lfl ^h"""'''^ l^ ^'^""^"^ "°"^^"^* ^"d beautiful confr vance Captain Sherman, her commander, to whose ingenuity and excellent taste these results are solely attributable, has bravely and worthiL distmguished himself on more than one trying ocSsion nTlil^ among them, in having the moral courage t^cafr^SS" troops at a time (during the Canadian rebellion) when no^oXr convevanr. was open to them. He and his vessel are held in uni^erSal Sect both by his own countrymen and ours; and no man ever en oyed the fhT thy^e^S^emli^' ^^ ""'' '^'^^^ ^' -^^-' -" -^ worJrb'etfe? By means of this floating palace we were soon in the United States again, and called that evening at Burlington; a prettv town where we lay an hour or so. We reached Whitehall, where we were to disembark, at six next morning; and might have done so eTrlfer bu? that these steamboats lie by for some hours in the night n con sequence of the lake becoming very narrow at that Sart of til journey and difficult of navigation in the dark, its width is so After breakfasting at Whitehall, we took the stage-coach lor Albany: a large and busy town, where we arrived between five an h six o'clock that afternoon; after a very hot day's joumev for we ^re now m the height of summer againf At seven le staried for New Jr^ H T ^?u'^ ^ ^''^* ^°'**^ ^^^' steamboat, which was so o?T?hl7 l^f ''"^!!;' ^^-^^ *^" "PP^^ ^«^k ^^« like the box Sbby of a theatre between the pieces, and the lower one like Tottenham Court Road on a Saturday night. But we slept soundly notwitS^ standing, and soon after five o'clock next morning reached New f^f^r"^ ^f ^ only that day and night, to recruit after our late fatigues, we started off c ^xe more upon our last journey in Amerka We haa yet five days to spare before embarking for England and I had a great desire to see "the Shaker Village," which S Spied bv I religious sect from whom it takes its name peopled by a To this end. we went up the North River again, as far as the town of Hudson, and there hired an extra to carry us to Lebanon fh?,^.^ miles d stant: and of course another and a different LeCo^^^^^^^ that VL lage where I slept on the night of the Prairie trip The country through which the road meandered, was rich and beautiful; the weather very fine; and for many mileL Te Kaatsk ll mountains, where Rip Van Winkle and the^ ghostly Dutchmen g!rdVtL""Fike s°^-!e"— ^^'^^ •^•"^'^ ^'^^"^ '^"' towered t'h^ o-ue aistan.v, like stateiy ciuuas. At one point, as we ascended a American Notes 171 steep hill, athwart whose base a railroad, yet constructing, took its course, we came upon an Irish colony. With means at hand of building decent cabins, it was wonderful to see how clumsy, rough, and wretched, its hovels were. The best were poor protection from the weather; the worst let in the wind and rain through wide breaches in the roofs of sodden grass, and in the walls of mud; some had neither door nor window; some had nearly fallen down, and were imperfectly propped up by stakes and poles, all were ruinous and filthy Hideously ugly old women and very buxom young ones, pigs, dogs men, children, babies, pots, kettles, dunghills, vile refuse, rank straw, and standing water, all wallowing together in an inseparable heap, 'composed the furniture of every dark and dirty hat. Between nine and ten o'clock at night, we arrived at Lebanon: which is renowned for its warm baths, and for a great hotel, well adapted, I have no dout'. to the gregarious taste of those seekers after health or pleasure who repair here, but inexpressibly comfort- less to me. We were shown into an immense apartment, lighted by two dim candles, called the drawing-room: from which there was a descent by a flight of steps, to another vast desert, called the dining- room- our bed-chambers were among certain long rows of little white- washed cells, which opened from either side of a dreary passage; and were so like rooms in a prison that I half expected to be locked up when I went to bed. and listened involuntarily for the turning of tfe key on the outside. There need be baths somewhere in the neighbourhood, for the other washing arrangements were on as limited a scale as I ever saw. even in America: indeed, these bed- rooms were so very bare of even such common luxuries as chairs, that I should say they were not provided with enough of anything, but that I bethink myself of our having been most bountifully bitten all The house is very pleasantly situated, however, and we had a good breaKfast. That done, we went to visit our place of destination, which was some two miles off, and the way to which was soon indicated by a finger-post, whereon was painted, "To the Shaker Village." ,^, , ^ ^ , As we rode along, we passed a party of Shakers, who were at work upon the road; who wore the broadest of all broad-brimmed hats; and were in all visible respects such very wooden men. that I felt about as much sympathy for them, and as much interest in them, as if they had been so many figure-heads of ships. Presently we came to the beginning of the village, and alighting at the door of a house where the Shaker manufactisres are sold, and which is the head- quarters of the elders, requested psrmission to see the Shaker worship. Pending the conveyance of this request to some person in author- ity we walked into a grim room, where several grim hats were hanging on grim pegs, and the thnc was grimly told by a grim clock wh^cli uttered everv tick with a kind of struggle, as if it broke the grim silence reluctantly, and under protest. Ranged against tne wall ^ m ^ ' W^ m i ? i-i 'n m i I rm 172 American Notes iZZl i '}T''' ^^ ^ '°^"^^^ ^ newspaper whefein the bodv of rir I'V^'' ,r' P^^^"'^'' -«*y Sh ngtuvVin TrS wop it;^^ f tuT<l1,^L^r— c<^^ r^-^ ' -pp-™- a spacious summer-house. As there was no getting int^this n ace «nrl nothmg vvas to be done but walk up and down, and look S ?t and the other buildings in the village (which were chiefly of wood painted a dark red like English barns, and composed of many stories il^ £"lnH /r*°"n^' ^ ^^"^ "°*^^^"g *° communcaTe to the reader beyond the scanty results I gleaned the while our purchases were These people are called Shakers from their peculiar form of adora tK)n which consists of a dance, performed by the r.en anTwomen of all ages, who arrange themselves for thnf T^,„-r.^. • • parties the men first'divestinFt^'mtlves of tSTaV^anrSS? which they gravely hang against the wall before they bel and loll bled Th '°""^ '''''' shirt-sleeves, as though they t?e going to be bled. They accompany themselves with a droning humSinf noise, and dance until they are quite exhausted nlWn.l^? ^^ vancing and retiring in a preWerLslorTbH S Th^^^^^^^^^^ to be unspeakably absurd: and if I may judge from a print of +hi. bv tZf^ 1^''^ ^ ""^^^ ^" "^y possession; ^andwh^ch I am"nformed IVnSlZ^t^:^^::''' ^^^ ^^^P^^' ^^ P-^ectly accuratenfmTst They are governed by a woman, and her rule is understood to hP absolute, though she has the assistance of a councilof elders She lives. It IS said m strict seclusion, in certain rooms above ?he chanel and is never shown to profane eves If <?hP af aii%to i ^^^ cnapel. who presided over the s?ore, it i^^gr " tth?r tf toTep trt S . ^ ns ana rev^nac^ ui tae settlement are thrown into American Notes 173 a common stock, which is managed by the elders. As they have made converts among people who were well to do in the w nld, and are frugal and thrifty, it is understood that this fund prospers the more especially as they have made large purchases of land. Nor is this at Lebanon the only Shaker settlement: there arc, I think, at least, three others. They are good farmers, and all their produce is eagerly purchased and highly esteemed. "Shaker seeds," "Shaker herbs," and "Shaker distilled waters," are commonly announced for sale in the shops of towns and cities. They are good breeders of cattle, and are kind and merciful to the brute creation. Consequently, Shaker beasts seldom fail to find a ready market. They eat and drink together, after the Spartan model, at a great public table. There is no union of the sexes, and every Shaker, male and female, is devoted to a life of celibacy. Rumour hue been busy upon this theme, >.>u I here again I must refer to the lady of the store, and say, that if many of the sister Shakers resemble her, 1 treat all such slander as bearing on its face the strongest marks of wild improbability. But that they take as proselytes, persons so young that they cannot know their own minds, and cannot possess much strength of resolution in this or any other respect, I can assert from my own observation of the extreme juvenility of certain youthful Shakers whom I saw at work among the party on the road. They are said to be good drivers of bargains, but to be honest and just in their transactions, and even in horse-dealing to resist those thievish tendencies which would seem, for some undiscovered reason, to be almost inseparable from that branch of traffic. In all matters they hold their own course quietly, live in their gloomy, silent commonwealth, and show little desire to interfere with other people. This is well enough, but nevertheless I cannot, I cc j^ess, incline towards the Shakers; view them with much favour, or extend towards them any very lenient construction. I so abhor, and from my soul detest that bad spirit, no matter by what class or sect it may be entertained, which would strip life of its healthful graces, rob youth of its innocent pleasures, pluck from maturity and age their pleasant ornaments, and make existence but a narrow path towards the grave: that odious spirit which, if it could have had full scope and sway upon the earth, must have blasted and made barren the imagin- ations of the greatest men, and left them, in their power of raising up enduring images before their fellow-creatures yet unborn, no better than the beasts that, in these very broad-brimmed hats and very sombre coats— in stiff-necked, solemn-visaged piety, in short, no matter what its garb, whether it have cropped hair as in a Shaker village, or long nails as in a Hindoo temple — I recognise the worst among the enemies of Heaven and Earth, who turn the water at the marriage feasts of this poor world, not into wine, but gall. And if there must be people vowed to crush the harmless fancies and the ;i ! u1 I III 174 American Notes I'll! r love of innocent delights and gaieties, which are a part of human nature: as much a part of it as any other love or hope that is our common portion; let them, for me, stand openly revealed among the ribald and licentious; the very idiots know that they are not on the Immortal rodd, and will despise them, and avoid them iviadily. Leaving the Shaker village with a hearty dislike of the old Shakers, and a hearty pity for the young ones: tempered by the strong probability of their running away as they grow older anc' wiser, which they not uncommonly do: we returned to Lebanon, ^r d so to Hudson, by the way we had come upon the previous day. There, we took the steamboat down the North River towards New York' but stopped, some four hours' journey short of it, at West Pointi where we remained that night, and all next day, and next night too. ^ In this beautiful place: the fairest among the fair and lovely Highlands of the North River: shut in by deep green heights and rumed forts, and looking down upon the distant town of Newburgh along a glittering path of sunl'.t water, with here and there a skiff,' whose white sail often bends on some new tack as sudden flaws of wmd come down upon her from the gullies in the hills hemmed in, besides, all round with memories of Washington, and events of the revolutionary war is the Military School of America. It could not stand on more appropriate ground, and any ground more beautiful can hardly be. The course of education is severe, but well devised, and manly. Through June, July, and August,' the young men encamp upon the spacious plain whereon the college stands; and al\ the year their military exercises are performed there daily. The term of study at this institution, which the State requires from all cadets, is four years; but, v liether it be from the rigid nature of the discipline, or the national impatience of restraint, or both causes combined, not more than half Lhe number T\ho bef^in their studies here, ever remain to finish them. " The number of cadv^ts being about equal to that of the members of Congress, one is sent here from eve'-y Congressional district: member influencing the selection. its w Commissions in the service are distributed on the same principle. The dwellings of the various Professors are beautifully situated: and there is a most excellent hotel for strangers, though it has the two drawbacks of being a total abstinence house (wines and spirits being forbidden to the students) and of serving the public meals at rather uncomfortable hours to wit, breakfast at seven, dinner at one, and supper at sunset. The beauty and freshness of this calm retreat, in the very dawn and greenness of summer —it was then the beginning of June —were exquisite indeed. Leaving it upon the sixth, and returning to New York, to embark for England on the succeeding day, I was glad to thinly that among the last memorable beauties which had "lided '^ast us, and softened in the bright perspective, were those whos^e pictures. American Notes 175 traced by no common hand, are fresh in most men's minds; not eai?ily to grow old, or fade beneath the dust of Time: the Kaatskill Mountains, Sleepy Hollow, and the Tappaan Zee. CHAPTER XVI THE PASSAGE HOME I NEVER had so much interest before, and very likely I shall never have so much interest again, in the state of the wind, as on the long looked-for morning of Tuesday the Seventh of June. Some nautical authority had told me a day or two previous, "anything with west in it, will do;" so when I darted out of bed at daylight, and throwing up the window, was saluted by a lively breeze from the north-west which had sprung up in the night, it came upon me so freshly, rustling with so many happy associations, that I conceived upon the spot a special regard +or all airs blowing from that quarter of the con^pass, which I shall cherish, I dare say, until my own wind has breathed its last frail puff, and withdrawn itself for ever from the mortal calendar. The pilot had not been slow to take advantage of this favourable weather, and the ship which yrjsterday had been in such a crowded dock that she might have retired from trade for good and all, for any chance she seemed to have of going to sea, was now full sixteen miles away. A gallant sight she was, when we, fast gaining on her in a steam- boat, saw her in the distance riding at anchor: her tall masts pointing up in graceful lines against the sky, and every rope and spar ex- pressed in delicate and thread-like outline: gallant, too, when, we being all aboard, the anchor came up to the sturdy chorus ' ' Cheerily men, oh cheerily !" and she followed proudly in the towing steamboat's wake: but bravest and most gallant of all, when the tow-rope being cast adrift, the canvas fluttered from her masts, and spreading her white wings she soared away upon her free and solitary course. In the after cabin we were only fifteen passengers in all, and the greater part were from Canada, where some of us had known each other. The night was rough and squally, so were the next two days, but they flew by quickly, and we were soon as cheerful and snug a party, with an honest, manly-hearted captain at our head, as ever came to the resolution of being mutually agreeable, on land or water. We breakfasted at eight, lunched at twelve, dined at three, and took our tea at half-past seven. We had abundance of amusements, and dinner was not the least among them : firstly, for its own sake; secondly, because of its extraordinary length: its duration, inclusive of all the long pauses between the courses, being seldom less than two By way of beguiling the tediousness of these banquets, a select a?oQ- H 176 American Notes ciation was formed at the lower end of the table, below the mast to whose distmguished president modesty forbids me to make any further allusion, which, being a very hilarious and jovial institution was (prejudice apart) in high favour with the rest of the communitv' and particularly with a black steward, who lived for three weeks in a broad grm. at the marvellous humour of these incorporated worthies Ihen. we had chess for those who played it. whist, cribbage. books* backgammon, and shovelboard. In all weathers, fair or foul calm o^ wmdy. we were every one on deck, walking up and down in pairs ^'iJ? '"".x^^,, °f *^' eaning over the side, or chatting in a lazy group to- gether We had no lack of music, for one pla3-ed the accordion? another the viohn. and another (who usually began at six o'clock a.m.) the kev- bugle: tb^ combined effect of which instruments, when they all plaved different, tunes in diiferent parts of the ship, at the same time, and within hearing of each other, as they sometimes did (everybody being intensely satisfied with his own performance), was sublimely hideous When all of these means of entertainment failed, a sail would heave m sight: looming, perhaps, the very spirit of a ship, in the misty distance, or passing us so close that through our glasses we could see the people on her decks, and easily make out her name, an d whither she was bound. For hours together we could watch the dolphins and porpoises as they rolled and leaped and dived around the vessel- or those small creatures ever on the wing, the Mother Carey's chickens, which had borne us company from New York bay and for a whole fortnight fluttered about the vessel's stern. For some days we had a dead calm, or very light winds, during which the crew amused themselves with fishing, and hooked an unlucky dolphin who expired, m all his rainbow colours, on the deck: an event of'«nch importance in our barren calendar, that afterwards we dated from the dolphin, and made the day on which he died, an era. Besides ail this, when we were five or six days out, there began to be much talk of icebergs, of whicli wandering islands an unusual number had been seen by the vessels that had come into New York a day or two before we left that port, and of whose dangerous neighbourhood we were warned by the ' udden coldness of the weather and the sinking of the mercury in tho barometer. While these tokens lasted %?°"^ .!'■?"* "' ' ^^^"' ^"^^ "^^^y ^^smal tales were whispered alter dark, of ships th^ t had struck upon the ice and gone down in tb- nighc; but tie wind obliging us to hold a southward course, wt saw none of them., uid the weather soon grew bright and warm again. Ihe obser ,at ; 1 ever^ day at noon, and the subsequent working of the vessel s cpv,: .. war,, as may be supposed, a feature iu -.ur lix^es of paraniount m portance; nor were there wanting (as there never are) sagacious doubtei-, t. the captain's calculations, who. so soon as his back was turned, would, in the absence of compasses, measure ^;>e chart with bits of string, ^nd ends of pocket- h.. ndkerchiefs, and its ot snuffers, and clcai iy prove him to be wrong bv an odd th .sand miles or so. It was very ed.fying to see these unbelievers snak. their heads an not that trusted t Indeed, t whom yc quite pa] tains eve plate; an( sails han^ and say. ^ they shre It ever wina won shown bj long a^ o. respected lievers as ' ard thrc was in pre we should ship, a Sa carried it Sanguine ( Western ( he suppose of sailing ^ life with J affect desf These w vtas still ai a hundred know indi-i deck wher* and very o and with v what errar were. The i had charge them had 1 and some h they were 1 the passage food, and ii covered nej secret close whatever bi in the after- The who of American Notes i^^ nnf f w'\?'''T' ^"^ ^^^^ *^^"^ ^°^^ fo^th Strongly upon navigation trusted the rL^"""- ^^y,'^^^ ^^""* ^*' ^"* thf t^hey aSs m° si inni!? !^ P*''''' ''' ''^^"^ weather, or when the wind waradte?.^ Indeed, the mercury itself is not so variable as this class oTpasse™ whom you will see. when the ship is going noblv thmn^h fht \ ' quite pale with admiration. swea?ing that the cantlfn £.V T^ ' Srnd^^°""' r' ^^^^ ^-t-|attb^n>£^^^^^^^^^ plate and who. next morning, when the breeze has lulled and all fh^ nnh^""^ >f "^ "* ?^ ^^^" ^^' '''^^' their despondei^^ heads aia^ wi^=.^-i^r^.^^^ longa^o. ihe hrst mate, who whis ,ed for O- 7Aalr^„ol„ ^ f respected for his perseverance, and was r^ga^ded even LTS Z^ ship, a Sanguine One. and a Despondent Onf The l^?Jr T T"^ „, l"?P°^ ? Cunard' steam-packet was now: a id what he thought afiectdes^onden^rfSt^^pfa^Lrd'qu'etud''/ *°° "'^^ """^^-^ *° v..^sSu:X^l!JreSL^^etr^^:rr^^^^^ a hundred passengers: a iSle worW of nowrt! h ^ ^^'''S'' "^"'^ ar. 1 -lu 1^^ °°' ^^ became curious to know their histnriP^ what"'r?ands t^T'*""™' '"7 ''^'^ '^°'"' °"* *° Imerlca at d on ih<. whole system of shippmg and conveying these unfortunate 178 American Notes persons, is one that stands in need of thorough revision. If any class deserve to be protected and assisted by the Government, it is that class who are banished from their native land in search of the bare means of subsistence. All that could be done for these poor people by the great compassion and humanity of the captain and officers was done, but they require much more. The law is bound, at least upon the English side, to see that too many of them are not put on board one ship: and that their accommodations are decent: not demoralising and profligate. It is bound, too, in common humanity, to declare that no man shall be taken on board without his stock of pro- visions being previously inspected by sonie proper officer, and pro- nounced moderately suffxient for his support upon the voyage. It is bound to provide, or to require that there be provided, a medical attendant; whereas in these ships there are none, though sickness of adults, and deaths of children, on the passage, are matters of the very commonest occurrence. Above all it is the duty of any Government, be it monarchy or republic, to interpose and put an end to that system by which a firm of traders in emigrants purchase of the owners the whole 'twcen-decks of a ship, and send on board as many wretched people as they can lay liold of, on any terms they can get, without the smallest reference to the conveniences of the steerage, the number of berths, the slightest separation of the sexes, or anything but their own immediate profit. I'^or is even this the worst of the vicious system: for, certain crimping agents of these houses, who have a percentage on all the passengers they inveigle, are constantly travelling about those districts where poverty and discontent are rife, and tempting the credulous into more misery, by holding out monstrous inducements to emigration which can never be realised. The history of every family we had on board was pretty much the same. After hoarding up, and borrowing, and begging, and selling everything to pay the passage, they had gone out to New York, expecting to find its streets paved with gold; and had found them paved with very hard and very real stones. Enterprise was dull; labourers were not wanted; jobs of work were to be got, but the pay- ment was not. They were coming back, even poorer than they went. One of them was carrying an open letter from a young English artisan, who had been in New York a fortnight, to a friend near Manchester, whom he strongly urged to follow him. One of the officers brought it tomeasacuri.^itv. "Thisisthe country, Jem," said the writer. "Hike America. There :" ' .10 despotism here; that's the great thing. Employ- ment of all sorts is going a-begging, and wages are capital. You have only to choose a trade, J tin, and be it. I haven't made choice of one yet, but I shall soon. At present I haven't quite made up my mind whether to be a carpenter — or a tailor." There was yet another kind ol passenger, and but one more, who, in the calm and the iight winds, was a constant theme of conversation and observation among us. This was an tuglisli sailor, a smart, thorough-built, English man-of-war's-man from his hat to his shoes. who wa absence himself 1 that bei monev, 1 "He'd b( Accordii than he crew, an like a ca1 first at tf everywh sober gri my own] At len earnest, i slashing 1 of the spl a furious sense of j how I lov rushing c about hei mistress j being nov by day, £ homewan cheerful 1 twenty-se before us, morning, that ever Dim sp more chee it seems t( separable shining or extent of '. veiling it i the moon of melancl to comfort having a f j Heaven, t; and this ol tranquil ni The win still in the American Notes 179 who was serving in the American navy, and having got leave of absence was on h,s way home to see his friends. When he presented himself to take and pay for his passage, it had been suggested to him that being an able seaman he might as well work it and save the monev but this piece of advice he very indignantly rejected: saying He d be damned but for once he'd go aboard ship, as a gentlemln^' Accordingly, they took his money, but he no sooner came aboard, than he stowed his kit in the forecastle, arranged to mess with the crew, and the very first time the hands were turned up. went aloft like a cat, before anybody. And all through the passage there he was first at the braces, outermost on the yards, perpetually lending a hand everywhere, but always with a sober dignity in his manne?. and a sober grin on his face, which plainly said. "I do it as a gentleman For my own pleasure, mind you!" At length and at last, the promised wind came up in right good earnest, and away we went before it, with very stitch of canvas set slashing through the water nobly. There was a grandeur in the motion of the splendid ship, as overshadowed by her mass of sails, she rode at a furious pace upon the waves, which filled one with an indescribable sense of pride and exultation. As she plunged into a foaming vallev how I loved to see the green waves, bordered deep with white conie rushing on astern, to buoy her upward at their pleasure and curl about her as she stooped again, but always own her for their hautrhtv mistress still! On on we flew, with changing lights upon the water being now in the blessed region of fleecy skies; a bright sun lighting us by day, and a bright moon by night; the vane pointing directly homeward, alike the truthful index to the favouring wind and to our cheerful hearts; until at sunrise, one fair Monday morning— the twenty-seventh of June. I shall not easily forget the day— there lav before us. old Cape Clear. God bless it. showing, in the mist of early morning, like a cloud: the brightest and most welcome cloud to us that ever hid the face of Heaven's fallen sister— Home Dim speck as it was in the wide prospect, it made the sunrise a more cheerful sight, and gave to it that sort of human interest which it seems to want at sea. There, as elsewhere, the return of day is in- separable from some sense of renewed hope and gladness; but the light shining on the dreary waste of water, and showing it in all its vast extent of loneliness, presents a solemn spectacle, which even night veiling It m darkness and uncertainty, does not surpass. The rising of the moon IS more in keeping with the sohtary ocean; and has an air of melancholy grandeur, which in its soft and gentle influence seems to comfort while it saddens. I recollect when I was a very youiig child having a fancy that the reflection of the moon in water was a path to Heaven, trodden by the spirits of good people on their way to God- and this old feeling often came over me again, when I watched it on a tranquil night at sea. i he wind was very light on this same Monday morning, but it was still m the right quaiter, and so, by slow degrees, we left Cape Clear Hf II Bf- n ^ 1 i8o American Notes behind, and sailed along within sight of the coast of Ireland. And how merry we all were, and how loyal to the George Washington, and how full of mutual congratulations, and how venturesome in predictmg the exact hour at which tve should arrive at Liverpool, may be easily imagined and readily understood. Also, how heartily we drank the captain's health that day at dinner; and how restless we became about packing up: and how two or three of the most sangume spirits rejected the idea of going to bed at all that night as something it was not worth while to do, so near the shore, but went nevertheless, and slept soundly; and how to be so near our journey's end. was like a pleasant dream, from which one feared to wake. The friendly breeze freshened again next day, and on we went once more before it gallantly: descrying now and then an English ship going homeward under shortened sail, while we, with every inch of canvas crowded on, dashed gaily past, and left her far behind. To- wards evening, the weather turned hazy, with a drizzling rain; and soon became so thick, that we sailed, as it were, in a cloud. Still we swept onward like a phantom ship, and many an eager eye glanced up to where the Look-out on the mast kept watch for Holyhead. At length his long-expected cry was heard, and at the same moment there shone out from the haze and mist ahead, a gleaming light, which presently was gone, and soon returned, and soon was gone again. Whenever it came back, the eyes of all on board, brightened and sparkled like itself: and there we all stood, watching this revolving light upon the rock at Holyhead, and praising it for its brightness and its friendly warning, and lauding it, in short, above all other signal lights that ever were displayed, until it once more glimmered faintly in the distance, far behind us. . r ■ Then, it was time to fire a gun, for a pilot; and almost before its smoke had cleared away, a little boat with a light at her mast-head came bearing down upon us, through the darkness, swiftly. And presently, our sails being backed, she ran alongside; and the hoarse pilot, wrapped and muffled in pea-coats and shawls to the very bridge of his weather-ploughed-up nose, stood bodily among us on the deck. And I think if that pilot had wanted to borrow fifty pounds for an indefinite period on no security, we should have engaged to lend it to him, among us. before his boat had dropped astern, or (which is the same thing) before every scrap of news in the paper he brought with him had become the common property of all on board . We turned in pretty late that night, and turned out pretty early next morning. By six o'clock we clustered on the deck, prepared to go ashore; and' looked upon the spires, and roofs, and smoke, of Liverpool. By eight we all sat down in one of its Hotels, to eat and drink together for the last time. And by nine we had shaken hands all round, and broken up our social company for ever. The country, by the railroad, seemed, as we rattled through it, like a luxuriant garden. The beauty of the fields (so suiall thy looked !), the hedge-rows, and the trees; the pretty cottages, the beds of floweri known ol in the she the windi tell, or pe The uphc system. I proof and The firs cattle, wh( in their tr Institutior which it is howS' (ever guilty heac The secc and sellers end, own, i deny the h( as never w; experience at this or a or foreign, tion of thei torture sla-' sailed by an the Freedoi cruel; and > America, is despot than The third of all that d( brook an eqi tolerate a m toonear;"w] as a disgrace rights can oi It has bee have been n republic of A American Notes jCj tell, or pen of mine d"cribe ^* *"'"'"' '* •*'"' °° '""g^ "==>" CHAPTER XVII SLAVERY The upholders of slavery in America n( th. t :■ which it is fraugMdaSers which h'^'^' the dangers to society with hows^ .ever tardy in thefr comfn^ ^^^""^^ "^^'^^"^ ^^^^ ^^y be, or guilty head, as irtheS:;^Tfud|mTnt'" '^ '"'^^" ^" ^^" "^^ ^^^ and'sdirof'sU^^^^^^^^ users, buyers end. own. bre-d use bnv .n A n A^ ^^^^'^^ ^^^P*^^ has a bloody deny the W^ors ofthe sy'^te^'r^^^^^^ 'f ^^^^^ -^° ^-^^ed! as never was brouc^ht to bear on J^".! ^.h t''''^ ^ ""^'^ °* evidence experience of everj day contXt^-^^^ '^ '^ ^"^ ^'^ '^^'''^ ^^"^ at this or any othTr moment^r.m/ immense amount; who would or foreign, provided Th^HLffV''''f''^ America in a war. civil tion of thd^rilht to p^^^^^^^^^ ^°^" ^"^ ^"d object the ^sser- torture slaves. unque^tS^^edbv^"?' ^""^ *° ^^^P ^"^ ^°^k and sailed by any humanTowerw>.o^ ^^ ^u""^"" authority, and unas- the Freedom toTppr£Theirk?nd ^i^T^^ °^ ^^^^d°"^' ^^^n cruel; and of whom everv man on b^^^ '^'^^^'' °^^^^^^^««' ^^d America, is a more e7ac7inT^J 1 '''^'' ^'"°""^' ^^ ^-epublican despot tlmnthrShphSaroLri^^^^^ I'f''''^^"'^ ^ ^^''^^ responsible The third, and not theSt nli^f '" his angry robe of scarlet, of all that delicate gentilitvu^irh!^.^ ^"^"^"tial. is composed brook an eqrar^tto class w^^^ ^ ^"P^'^or. and cl^nnot tolerate a man above me^a^^^^^ "I will not toonear;"whosepride ?n'^ InnH? t.^^ ^^°'^' "°"^ "^^s* approach as a disgrace S be minilte^.H^'^'K ^° ""^^^y ^^^itade is shunned rights cL only hTve'Telr ~,rnC^^^^ ^^ose inalienable halVriT/r.f 1".^^^^^^^^ in the un^'lling efforts wh..H republic of inT;rica(:tmnrcauL'^^^^^^^^^ ^'^f" ^^"^^°°^ ^""tl* d ^btrange cause for history to treat of!), sufficient '(*•■ l82 American Notes regard has not been had to the existence of the first class of persons; and it has been contended that they are hardly used, in being con- founded with the second. This is, no doubt, the case; noble instances of pecuniary and personal sacrifice have already had their growth among them; and it is much to be regretted that the gulf between them and the advocates of emancipation should have been widened and deepened by any means: the rather, as there are, beyond dispute, among these slave-owners, many kind masters who are tender in the exercise of their unnatural power. Still, it is to be feared that this injustice is inseparable from the state of things with which humanity and truth are called upon to deal. Slavery is not a whit the more endurable because some hearts are to be found which can partially resist its hardening influences; nor can the indignant tide of honest wrath stand still, because in its onward course it overwhelms a few who are comparatively innocent, among a host of guilty. The ground most commonly taken by these better men among the advocates of slavery, is this: "It is a bad system; and for myself I would willingly get rid of it. if I could; most willingly. But it is not so bad, as you in England take it to be. You are deceived by the representations of the emancipationists. The greater part of my slaves are much attached to me. You will say that I do not allow them to be severely treated; but I will put it to you whether you believe that it can be a general practice to treat them inhumanly, when it would impair their value, and would be obviously against the interests of their masters." Is it the interest of any man to steal, to game, to waste his health and mental faculties by drunkenness, to lie, forswear hinself, indulge hatred, seek desperate revenge, or do murder? No. All these are roads to ruin. And why, then, do men tread them? Because such inclinations are among the vicious qualities of mankind. Blot out, ye friends of slavery, from the catalogue of human passions, brutal lust, cruelty, and the abuse of irresponsible power (of all earthly temptations the most difficult to be resisted), and when ye have done so, and not before, we will inquire whether it be the interest of a master to lash and maim the slaves, over whose lives aijd limbs he has an absolute control ! But again: this class, together with that last one I have named, the miserable aristocracy spawned of a false repubhc, lift up their voices and exclaim "Public opirion is all-sufficient to prevent such cruelty as you denounce." PuDlic ^pinion! Why, pubhc opinion in the slave States is slavery, is it not? Public opinion, in the slave States, has delivered the slaves over, to the gentle mercies of their masters. Public opinion has made the laws, an J, denied the slaves legislative protection. Publir opi.uon has knotted the lash, heated the brand- ing-iron, loaded the rifle, and shielded the murderer. Public opinion threatens the abolitionist with death, if he venture to the South; and drags him with a rope about his middle, in broad unblushing noon, through the first city in the East. l:^ubiic opinion has, within a few years, burn< public opini able Judge derers, that being so, mt made. Publii and set the influence, an Public opi ance over th public opinic their twelve States, with and forty-t\\ down the mo for whose tas protestations Public opii pressed by H Washington. Carolina, "I ] house, and a respect prevei tion which ha district of Co South Carolin chance shall 1 felon's death. South Carolin; can catch him, of all the gove we will HANG h Public opini ington, in that liberty, any jt passing down i black man's pj this man a run; man of law wh papers, warnin to pay the jail owner, it may £ IS SOLD TO REC ^gain, and agai adviser, messen into his case is i liave served for «o process, for i American Notes years, burned a slave aliv^ nf ^ d ^ • ^3 public opinion has to this dav m^nT,f ''^'" **"" "^ °' St. Louis; and able Judge who eharged the^r"?;" tann "H !?'' """'='' *"••'' «^t™- derers, that their most horrid deed waf an'ac?nf^''K,*° '"^ ^'' ""'^■ being so, must not be punished bvth^l, .1 "^Pu^hc opinion, and ■is:op'in^i:^,tLt-it^^^^^ ""^ " ■"^''' ^" ;=-nrtre',-^^^^^ their twelve States one hundred mLl °Tf'- They send from States, with a free populatfon "eariv H. M ^'"1"= ^^^^ '""rteen free and forty-two. Before whom do tw, S' '■'=*"™ >"■* '^ hundred down the most humbly Tn whom do th '^T'''^"^''' candidates bow tor whose tastes do thw cater Semo,?-,''"'," *'''=,'"°^"°"dly, and protestations? The slavLwnis a1 "ays ^^'<'"°""y '" t^eir servile pre^sL'^b^lti^o™' membe&t"t°hr^°" °' *^ '-■= S-'". - ex- Washington. ■■! have aTSt resDect?-'« "'Representatives at Carolina, "I have a greaf respect for t^e .h''- '=''''"■■ 1"°*'' North house, and a great resnect fS L- "'"'"■ ''= ^n ofTicer of the respect prevcnfs me f roTrusWng to^th^eTahr"^' , ".""''"S ""' «>at ■"?.": "^? •;- i-t been prest?fd fofthfat,?."i':^","A!!i^* Peti. t'Siared'b:r,a^ !'?'i'i«--t ':: -ya district of Columbia, to Dieros " "t x, ^ "- ^"'^ South Carolina/'ignorant fnfiiria'i^rl I'^IT'' *^^ abolitionists/' says chance shall throw Tny of ?hem into n'^\"^"i ^' ^^^^ ^'^' ^^at^f felon's death "—"Let nn al i^- ° °"^ ^^"*^s, he may expect a South CaroHna," criel a'^hfrd'^^irCa^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^-^- of can catch him, we will try him ^ndr^^f lul ' colleague; "and if we of all the governments SeartinncrdTnlt?"^^^ ^'l^ interference we will HANG him. " ' including the Federal government, Public opinion has made this law t+ u j , jngton, in that city vvhich takes its n. ml f^' tu^Y^"^ *^^* ^^ Wash- liberty, any justice of thrp^ace m^ . h T ^>l^?^^ passing down the street and tosThL^f "^'^^ ^^^^^'' ^"^ "^g^o back man's part is necessary SeitTicf.^.^^'^^ «" «^« this man a runaway: " and locks him nn P k1^'' • ^. "^^o^"^ *« think man of law when this is done to^dv-^'^ ii ""^^ ""'""P^^""' ^^" papers, warning his owner to ;nm. o f f ^ ^^^ "^^^^ ^^ the news- to pay the jail fees But slpDoL^h^ claim him, or he will be sold owner, it m4 naturally LSme^dthnV'if ^'"^ ^^^"^' ^"^ ^^^ "O ^S SOLD TO RECOMPENSE hTjIil^H ?hi. tlT' ^V^^^^^^' ^^^ «^ again, and again. He has no means o^nr. ^!^^ f^^e again, and adviser, messenger or asei«f L?. ? proving his freedom; has no into his case is rde^^rqu^r^iS^^^^^^^ ^f '" "° ---tigation' We served for years, and bo,f.ht h" "^^^^^^^^ '"" "'^^' ^^° "^^^ no process, for no crime, and on no preteth/ edm^^^^^^^ ^ i4 I PI ( ! * s t i84 American Notes pay the jail fees. This seems incredible, even of America, but it is the law. Public opinion is deferred to, in such cases as the following: which is headed in the newspapers: — "Interesting Law-Case. "An interesting case is now on trial in the Supreme Court, arising out of the following facts. A gentleman residing in Maryland had allowed an aged pair of his slaves, substantial though not legal freedom for several years. While thus living, a daughter was born to them, who grew up in the same liberty, until she m irried a free negro, and went with him to reside in Pennsylvania. They had several chil- dren, and lived unmolested until the original owner died, when his heir attempted to regain them; but the magistrate before whom they were brought, decided that he had no jurisdiction in the ca.se. The owner seized the woman and her children in the night, and carried them to Maryland." "Cash for negroes, "cash for negroes," "cash for negroes," is the heading of advertisements in great capitals down the long columns of the crowded journals. Woodcuts of a runaway negro with manacled hands, crouching beneath a bluff pursuer in top boots, who, having caught him, gra.spshim by the throat, agreeably diversify the pleasant text. The leading article protests against "that abominable and hellish doctrine of abolition, which is repugnant alike to every law of God and nature." The delicate mamma, who smiles her acquies- cence in this sprij^htly writing as she reads the paper in her cool piazza, quiets her youngest child who clings about her skirts, by promising the boy "a whip to beat the little niggers with." — But the negroes, little and big, are protected by public opinion. Let us try this public opinion by another test, which is important in three points of view: first, as showing how desperately timid of the public opinion slave-owners are, in their delicate descriptions of fugitive slaves in widely circulated newspapers; secondly, as showing how perfectly contented the slaves are» and how very seldom they run away; thirdly, as exhibiting their entir*^ freedom from scar, or blemish, or any mark of cruel infliction, as their pictures are drawn, not by lying abolitionists, but by their own truthful masters. The following are a few specimens of the advertisements in the public papers. It is only four years since the oldest among them appeared; and others of the same nature continue to be published every day, in shoals. "Ran away, Negress Caroline. Had on a collar with one prong turned down." "Ran away, a black woman, Betsy. Had an iron bar on her right leg." "Ran away, the negro Manuel. Much marked with irons." American Notes 185 ne^ away, the negress Fanny, had on an iron band about her "Wo,, •' """^'"6 a^ ring and chain on the left Ipw " Ran away, a negro bov named TnrT.*»« c; .;!, L ^' he left me." ^ "^"^^^ J '^"^es. Said boy was ironed when marU.of ..sH.No'ln'd'L'i'rronstSert'^^'''' ''^"- "" ^^^=-' she wntTff^'i'b^r^fherwUraZ: '"° ^"''l'''' ^ '^^ "ay. before 1 tried to mkketT letter M" "■°"' °" *'"' '*" ^''"^ °' '^<='- '^ce. "Ran away, a negro man named Henry his left ev,. o„t . iron, a dark on and under his left arm/an'd micrsell^r^^rSTh: old! H^^'JZred°o'nTh^,^;!;,f ^. ^ "^°™ '<="-• »'-P«5'. 40 years Committed to jail, a m sro man. Has no toes on the left foot - exce^prtSge%"nT? """^" "^""'^ ^-l^^'- Has".:It"X toes an;iJaLTv:?al^Tots^rhts^l'Jra?;\r^^^^^ thefeft"^'Lrw''ee';rfl,°e?ho°uld:rand^er^ '"^^T- 'J^^ "^^ =''°* '" the left hand." shoulder and elbow, which has paralysed in hfs'baSZfgSm" • " "''"^' '™°"- "^ »- "-n ^"ot badly. his tetLtS e\ch'^:rm'S:de^?a"kn"f^^ f »' -''--"le scar across goodness of God." " ^ ''"''*• '°™^ '° ta't much of the "Twenty-five dollars reward for my man Isaac H„ h=.<. W "Xi'- """ "^ ^ ^'""^ ^"^ °- orhl:?a^k":,t bTa"h°o? eye, atooSnyS Sssta " fhettT' 'I^-^ t '■"="' ^^ -- "- and forehead." m>ssmg, the letter A is branded on her cheek andteflTg:^b:rnS"e/?v\dS'r"t^'^^^^ ''-'^•- »- *!>-"> ^^"o:j^Ll\^-htiFSF~^^^ n^ht cheek, and We:'.^to"t^-Cnrrn^rwifh^^^^^^^^^^^^ "Ran away, a negro man named Ned Thrp<- nf hi. « drawn into the palm of his hand bv . r.^H.^l^t?! ^.^""^^^^ '-? bis neck, nearly half round, done by a kli'lfe/' " ^^"' "" '"^ ""^^^ ^* 1 ; r,, ,,.,,, m 5U -^^v^N^ iMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 2.5 1 20 1.8 1.25 1.4 III 1-6 III < 6" — » m e /a '> a wP % > /A '/ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MS80 (716) S72-4S03 i86 American Notes m \M Was committed to jail, a negro man. Says his name is Tosiah. His back very much scarred by the whip; and branded on the thieh and hips m thrte or four places, thus (JM). The rim oi his right ear has been bit or cl t o€ . ' ' "Fifty dollars reward, for my fellow Edward . He has a scar on the corner of his mouth, two cuts on and under his arm. and the letter E on his arm." "Ran away, negro boy EUie. Has a scar on one of his arms from the bite of a dog." "Ran away, from the plantation of James Surgette, the following negroes: Randal, has one ear cropped; Bob, has lost one eye- Ken- tucky Tom. has one jaw broken." "Ran away. Anthon^r. One of his ears cut off. and his left hand cut with an axe. ' "Fifty dollars reward for the negro Jim Blak'j. Has a piece cut out of each ear, and the middle finger of the left hand cut off to the second joint. "Ran away, a negro woman named Maria. Has a scar on one side of her cheek, by a cut. Some scars on her back." "Ran away, the Mulatto wench Mary, Has a cut on the left arm, a scar on the left shoulder, and two upper teeth missing. ' ' I should say. perhaps, in explanation of this latter piece of descrip- tion, that among the other blessings which public opinion secures to the negroes, is the common practice ci violently punching out their teeth. To make them wear iron collars by day and night, and to worry them with dogs, are practices almost too ordinary to deserve mention. "Ran away, my man Fountain. Has holes in his ears, a scar on the right side of his forehead, has been shot in the hind parts of his lees and IS marked on the back with the whip." "Two hundred and fifty dollars reward for my negro man Jim He IS much marked with shot in his right thigh. The shot entered on the outside, halfway between the hip and knee joints." •'Brought to jail, John. Left ear crept." "Taken up, a negro man. Is very much scarred about the face and body, and has the left ear bit off . " , "Ran away, a black girl, named Mary. Has a scar on her cheek and the end of one of her toes cut off . " "Ran away, my Mulatto woman, Judy. She has had her right arm broke." ° "Ran away, my negro man, Levi. His left hand has been burnt and I think the end of his forefinger is off. " "Ran away, a negro man, named Washington. Has lost a part of his middle finger, and the end of his little finger." "Twenty-five dollars reward for my man John. The tip of his nose IS bit off." "Twenty-five dollars reward for the negro slave, Sally. Walks as /AoM^A crippled in the back." American Notes 187 ;;Ran away, Joe Dennis. Has a small notch in one of his ears " Ran away, negro boy, Jack. Has a small crop out of his left ear." of tfe^ro'/each 0^''"'"' '^'"^' '"°^- "" ^ ^"^" ^^^ ^^ -* While upon the subject of ears. I may observe that a distinguished abolitionist in New York once received a negro's ear. which hS been cut off dose to the head, in a general post letter. It was fomarded by l^t^^^^^^ md.;pendent gentleman who had caused it trbeamp^^ I could enlarge this catalogue with broken arms, and broken less and gashed flesh, and missing teeth, and lacerated backs, and bSs ^n h?'.^"?^ ^'^^^' of red-hot irons innumerable: but as iky readers mil be sufficiently sickened and repelled already, I will turn to an- other branch of the subject, tuiiiioan These advertisements, of which a similar collection might be made for eyeiy year, and month, and week, and day; and which are cToUy read m families as thmgs of course, and as a part of the current newl and small-talk; will serve to show how very much the slaves pmfit by puWic opinion, and how tender it is in their behalf. But it may be worth while to inquire how the slave-owners, and the class of society to which great numbers of them belong, defer to public opinion S their conduct, not to their slaves but to each other; howThey aJe accustomed to restrain their passions; what their bearing is amo^g ^I'^r^:^^: H ^f 1 "' '^"y- ^'' ^^''' °' S^^tl^' ^^^ther their S customs be brutal sangumary. and violent, or bear the impress of civilisation and refinement. xmpresb 01 That we may have no partial evidence from abolitionists in this inquiry, either. I will once more turn to their own newspapers, and I will confine myself, this time, to a selection- from paragraphs which appeared from day to day. during my visit to Americl. Ld wh ch refer to occurrences happenmg while I was there. The italics in these extracts, as m the foregoing, are my own hJl^^^ ""T^ "^'1 "°i t^"^ °''o"''' '* ^i" ^^ ^^^n- in territory actually belon; ,g to legalised Slave ^tates, though most, and those the verV worst among them, did, as ti eir counterparts constantly do but the position of tne scenes of action in reference to places immediately at hand, where slavery is the law; and the strong resemblance between that class of outrages and the rest; lead to the just presumption that the character of the parties concerned was foimed in slave districts, and brutalised by slave customs. =«-^i^i», "Horrible Tragedy. thl H'on'rhfr?^ l^'^'^'^P^^ Telegraph, Wisconsin, we learn that the Hon. Charles C. P. Amdt. Member of the Council for Brown county w^ shot dead on the floor of the Council chamber, by Tames R Vmyard. Member fron. Grant county. The affair grew out of a nominal 1 ll riii-i American Notes i88 —L^'bfM/ AmdtTv'^- ^'- ^- S- ^-k- was nominated and wiJ? ? i^L^ . ^*- ^^^^ nomination was opposed bv Vinvard who wanted the appomtment to vest in his own brother In the course of debate the deceased made some statements which Vinvard pronounced alse. and made use of violent and insulth^?langTaJe deahng largely m personalities, to which Mr. A. made no repi v^Af L; to" ^ttcTS f • ^ ^*!PP^^up to Vinyard. and r^quSfed h S to retract which he refused to do, repeating the offensive words "The Wisconsin Tragedy. r.i'If ""^^f indignation runs high in the territory of Wisconsin in relation to the murder of C. C. P. Arndt, in the Legislative HauS the Territory. Meetings have been held in different counties of V^ consfn denouncing A. practice of secretly bearing arms intheuluSe TaTes R t^^'^'^^f^' "^' ^^"^ ^^^" *^^ ^^^^"^^ of thfex^flstn of M. A '^! ^1, *^' ^^'^ expulsion by those who saw Vinvard kill ^^' .^n" 1 .'S *^' P'"'"^"^ °* ^^^ ^^^^ f^*h^^' who was on a visftTo s^e his son httle dreammg that he was to witness his murder /wS^ Dunn has dtscharged Vinyard on bail The Mraer's Fre? Press' spSs in terms of merited rebuke at the outrage upon the feeW^ !5 ?il people of Wisconsin. Vinyard was withif arn^^s length of M^^^ Arndt when he took such deadly aim at him. that he never spokfviWrd c"hot\?k^ilrhr''''^^^^ ^° "^^^' ^^^^ ^^^y wounderh^ra "Murder. "By a letter in a St. Louis paper of the 14th, we notice a terriblf^ outrage at Burlington. Iowa. A Mr. Bridgman having had difl^uttv with a citizen of the place. Mr. Ross; a brother-in4aw of the iSter provided himself with one of Colt's revolving pistols mi Mr ^Z the street, and discharged the contents of five ojKebar^eTat fun ea2 shot takvng effect. Mr. B.. though horribly wounded ^d dvin/ returned the fire, and killed RosJ on the spot." ^ ^' "Terrible Death of Robert Potter. A "S^TJ'H® '^f i^° Gazette.' of the 12th inst.. we learn the friehtful death of Colonel Robert Potter. ... He was beset in h^ house bv an enemy, named Rose. He sprang from his couch, seized ht gun, and! American Notes 189 in his night-clothes, rushed from the house. For about two hundred yards his speed seemed to defy his pursuers; but, gpftina pnfan^^lpH m a thicket, he was captured. Rose told him that he intended to acta generous part, and give him a chance for his life. He then told Potter he might run. and he should not be interrupted till he reached a cer- tain distance. Potter started at the word of command, and before a gun was fired he had reached the lake. Kis first impulse was to jump in the water and dive for it. which he did. Rose was close behind him and formed his men on the bank ready to shoot him as he rose In a few seconds he came up to breathe; and scarce had his head reached the surface of the water when it was completely riddled with the shot of their guns, and he sunk, to rise no more !" "Murder in Arkansas. "We understand that a severe rencontre came off & few days since in the Seneca Nation, between Mr. Loose, the sub-agent of the mixed band of the Senecas. Quapaw, and Shawnees, and Mr. James Gillespie of the mercantile ' im of Thomas G. Allison and Co., of Maysville' Benton, County Ark. in which the latter was slain with a bowie-knife' Some difficulty had for some time existed between the parties It is said that Major Gillespie brought on the attack with a cane. A severe conflict ensued, during which two pistols were fired by Gillespie and one by Loose. Loose then stabbed Gillespie with one of those never- failmg weapons, a bowie-knife. The death of Major G. is much regretted, as he was a liberal-minded and energetic man. Since the above was in type, we have learned that Major Allison has stated to some of our citizens in town that Mr. Loose gave the first blow. We forbear to give any particulars, as the matter will be the subject of judicial investigation." "Foul Deed. "The steamer Thames, just from Missouri river, brought us a hand- bill offering a reward of 500 dollars, for the person who assassinated Lilbum W. Baggs, late Governor of this State, at Independence on the night of the 6th inst Governor Baggs. it is stated in a written memorandum, was not dead, but mortally wounded. "Since the above was written, we received a note from the clerk of the Thames, giving the f. )llowing particulars. Gov. Baggs was shot by some villain on Friday, 6th inst., in the evening, while sittmg in a room in his own house in Independence. His son, a boy, hearing a report, ran into the room, and found the Governor sitting in his chair with his jaw fallen down, and his head leaning back; on discovering the injury done to his father, he gave the alarm. Foot tracks were found m the garden below the window, and a pistol picked up sup- posed to have been overloaded, and thrown from the hand of the scoundrel who fired it. Tliree buck shots of a heavy load, took effect- IQO American Notes one going through his mouth, one into the brain, and another probably in or near the brain; all going into the back part of the neck and head. The Govemox was still alive on the morning of the 7th; but no hopes for his recovery by his friends, and but slight hopes from his physicians. "A man was suspected, and the Sheriff most probably has posses- sion of him by this time. "The pistol was one of a pair stolen some days previous from a baker in Independence, and the legal authorities have the descrip- tion of the other." ^ "Rencontre. "An unfortunate affair took place on Friday evening in Chatres Street, in which one of our most respectable citizens received a danger- ous wound, from a poignard, in the abdome;i. From the Bee (New Orleans) of yesterday, we learn the following particulars. It appears that an article was published in the !• rench side of the paper on Mon- day last, containing some strictures on the Artillery Battalion for firing their guns on Sunday morning, in answer to those from the Ontario and Woodbury, and thereby much alarm was caused to the families of those persons who were out all night preserving the peace of the city. Major C. Gaily, Commander of the battalion, resenting this, called at the office and demanded the author's name; that of Mr. P. Arpin was given to him. who was absent at the time. Some angry words then passed with one of the proprietors, and a challenge followed; the friends of both parties tried to arrange the affair, but failed to do so. On Friday evening, about seven o'clock. Major Gaily met Mr. P. Arpin in Chatres Street, and accosted him. 'Are vou Mr. Arpin?' ^ '' 'Yes, sir,' " 'Then I have to tell you that you are a ' (applving an appropriate epithet). " 'I shall remind you of your words, sir.' .'.' .'"^"^ ^ ^^^^ ^^^'^ ^ would break my cane on your shoulders.' '' 'I know it. but I have not yet received the blow.' "At these words, Major Gaily, having ^ cane in his hands, struck Mr. Arpin across the face, and the latter drew a poignard from his pocket and stabbed Major Gaily in the abdomen. "Fears are entertained that the wound will be ir ortal. We under- stand that Mr. Arpin has given security for his appearance at the Criminal Court to answer the charge." "On the 27th ult. Mississippi, between 'Affray in Mississippi. m an affray near Carthage, Leake county, James Cottingham and John Wilbum, the latter was shot by the former, and so horribly wounded, that there American Notes 191 was^no hope of his recovery. On the 2nd instant, there was an affray at ^arthage between A. C. Sharkey and George Goff. in which the latter was shot, and thought mortally wounded. Sharkey delivered himrcU up to the authorities, but changed his mind and escaped!'' * "Personal Encounter. "An encounter took place in Sparta, a few days since, between the barkeeper of an hotel, and a man named Bury. It appears that Burv had beconie somewhat noisy, and that the barkeeper, determined to preserve order, had threatened to shoot Bury, whereupon Bury drew a pistol and shot the barkeeper down. He was not dead at the last accounts, but slight hopes were entertained of his recovery." "Duel. "The clerk of the steamboat Tribune informs us that another duel was fought on Tuesday last, by Mr. Robbins, a bank officer in Vicks- burg, and Mr. Fall, the editor of the Vicksburg Sentinel. According to the arrangement, the parties had six pistols each, which, after the word Fire! they were to discharge as fast as they pleased. Fall fired two pistols without effect. Mr. Robbins' first shot took effect in Fall's thigh, who fell, and was unable to continue the combat." "Affray in Clarke County. "An unfortimate affray occurred in Clarke County (Mo.), near Waterloo, on Tuesday the 19th ult., which originated in settling the partnership concerns of Messrs. M'Kane and M'/ Ulster who had been engaged m the business of distilling, and resulted in the death of the latter who was shot down by Mr. M'Kane. because of his attempting to take possession of seven barrels of whiskey, the property of M Kane, which had been knocked off to M'AUister at a sheriff's sale at one dollar per barrel. M'Kane immediately fled and at the latest dates had not been taken. "This unfortunate affray caused considerable excitement in the neighbourhood, as both the parties were men with large families depending upon them and stood well in the community." I will quote but one more paragraph, which, by reason of its monstrous absurdity, may be a relief to these atrocious deeds. "Affair of Honour. "^^ ?*^y® ^"^* ^^^^^ *^^ particulars of a meeting which took place on bix Mile Island, on Tuesday, between two young bloods of our city: Samuel Thurston, aged fifteen, and William Hine, aged thirteen years. Thev wptp nftPTiri*>/i K,r ,,«„«« «^^4.i _ii ^i.. ' ^^^^ j'j'^^r*, a.x.i.Kx YYiiiictm nme, agea mtrteen Ihey were attended by young gentlemen of the same age. 192 American Notes I The weapons used on the occasion, were a couple of Dickson's best rifles; the distan'^e, thirty yards. They took one fire, without any damage being sustained by either party, except the ball of Thurston's gun passing through the crown of Mine's hat. Through the intercession of the Board of Honour, the challenge was withdrawn, and the differ- ence amicably adjusted." If the reader will picture to himself the kind of Board of Honour which amicably adjusted the difference betVveen these two little boys, who in any other part of the world would have been amicably adjusted on two porter's backs and soundly flogged with birchen rods, he will be possessed, no doubt, with as strong a sense of its ludicrous character, as that which sets me laughing whenever its image rises up before me. Now, I appeal to every human mind, imbued with the commonest of common sense, and the commonest of common hunanity; to all dispassionate, reasoning creatures, of any shade of opinion; and ask, with these revolting evidences of the state of society which exists in and about the slave districts of America before them, can they have a doubt of the real condition of the slave, or can they for a moment make a compromise between the institution or any of its flagrant, fearful features, and their own just consciences? Will they say of any tale of cruelty and horror, however aggravated in degree, that it is improb- able, when they can turn to the public prints, and, running, read such signs as these, laid before them by the men who rule the slaves: in their own acts and under their own hands? Do we not know that the worst deformity and ugliness of slavery are at once the cause and the effect of the reckless license taken by these freeborn outlaws? Do we not know that the man who has been born and bred among its wrongs; who has seen in his childhood husbands obliged at the word of command to flog their wives; wome- inde- cently compelled to hold up their own garments that men might lay the heavier stripes upon their legs, driven and harried by brutal overseers in their time of travail, and becoming mothers on the field of toil, under the very lash itself; who has read in youth, and seen his virgin sisters read, descriptions of runaway men and women, and their disfigured persons, which could not be published elsewhere, of so much stock upon a farm, or at a show of beasts: — do we not know that that man, whenever his wrath is kindled up, will be a brutal savage? Do we not know that as he is a coward in his domestic life, stalking among his shrinking men and women slaves armed with his heavy whip, so he will be a coward out of doors, and carrying cowards' weapons hidden in his breast, will shoot men down and stab them when he quarrels? And if our reason did not teach us this and much beyond; if we were such idiots as to close our eyes to that fine mode of training which rears up such men; should we not know that they who among their equals stab and pistol in the legislative halls, and in the counting-house, and on the market-place, and in all American Notes >n's best out any urston's ircession e differ- Honour vo little micably birchen se of its ever its imonest y; to all ind ask, 3xists in ey have moment t, fearful y tale of improb- ig, read B slaves: very are by these sen born usbands V , inde- ight lay y brutal the field seen his ten, and ire, of so Dt know a brutal stic life, with his carrying •wn and 1 us this i to that Dt know ^islative ad in all 193 the elsewhere peaceful pursuits of life, must be to their dependants, even though they were free servants, so many merciless and unrelent- ing tyrants.? What ! shall we declaim against the ignorant peasantry of Ireland, and mince the matter when these American taskmasters are in question? Shall we cry shame on the brutality of those who ham- string cattle: and spare the lights of Freedom upon earth who notch the ears of men and women, cut pleasant posies in the shrinking flesh, learn to write with pens of red-hot iron on the human face, rack their poetic fancies for liveries of mutilation which i heir slaves shall wear for life and carry to the grave, breaking living limbs as did the soldiery who mocked and slew the Saviour of the world, and set defenceless creatures up for targets ! Shall we whimper over legends of the tor- tures practised on each other by the Pagan Indians, and smile upon the cruelties of Christian men ! Shall we, so long as these things last, exult above the scattered remnants of that race, and triumph in the white enjoyment of their possessions? Rather, for me, restore the forest and the Indian village; in lieu of stars and stripes, let some poor feather flutter in the breeze; replace the streets and squares by wigwams; and though the death-song of a hundred haughty warriors fill the air, it will be music to the shriek of one unhappy slave. On one theme, which is commonly before our eyes, and in respect of which our national character is changing fast» let the plain Truth be spoken, and let us not, like dastards, beat about the bush by hinting at the Spaniard and the fierce Italian. When knives are drawn by Englishmen in conflict let it be said and known: "We owe this change to Republican Slavery. These are the weapons of Freedom. With sharp points and edges such as these. Liberty in America hews and; hacks her slaves; or, failing that pursuit, her sons devote them to a better use, and turn them on each other.' ' CHAPTER XVIII CONCLUDING REMARKS There are many passages in this book, where I have been at some pains to resist the temptation of troubling my readers with my own deductions and conclusions: preferring that they should judge for themselves, from such premises as I have laid before them. My only object in the outset, was, to carry them with me faithfully whereso- ever I went: and that task I have discharged. But I may be pardoned, if on such a theme as the general character of the American people, and the general character of their social system, as presented to a stranger's eyes, I desire to express my own opinions in a few words, before I bring these volumes to a close. 325 ^ ' ! ;f Ij ; ■ t\ 194 American Notes They are, by nature, frank, brave, cordial, hospitable, and affec- tionate. Cultivation and refinement seem but to enhance their warmth of heart and ardent enthusiasm; and it is the possession of these latter qualities in a most remarkable degree, which renders an educated American one of the most endearing and most generous of friends. I never was so won upon, as by this class; never yielded up my full confidence and esteem so readily and pleasurably, as to them; never can make again, in half a year, so many friends for whom I seem to entertain the regard of half a life. These qualities are natural, I implicitly believe, to the whole people. That they are, however, sadly sapped and blighted in their growth among the mass; and that there are influences at work which endanger them still more, and give but little present pronise of their healthy restoration; is a truth that ought to be told. It is an essential part of every national character to pique itself mightily upon its faults, and to deduce tokens of its virtue or its wisdom from their very exaggeration. One great blemish in the popular mind of America, and the prolific parent of an innumerable brood of evils, is Universal Distrust. Yet the American citizen plumes himself upon this spirit, even when he is sufficiently dispassionate to perceive the ruin it works; and will often adduce it, in spite of his own reason, as an instance of the great sagacity and acuteness of the people, and their superior shrewdness and independence. "You carry," says the stranger, "this jealousy and distrust into every transaction of public life. By repelling worthy men from your legislative assemblies, it has bred up a class of candidates for the suffrage, who, in their very act, disgrace your Institutions and your people's choice. It has rendered you so fickle, and so given to change that your inconstancy has passed into a proverb; for you no sooner set up an idol firmly, than you are sure to pull it down, and dash it into fragments: and this, because directly you reward a benefactor, or a public servant, you distrust him, merely because he is rewarded; and immediately apply yourself to find out, either that you have been too bountiful in your acknowledgments, or he remiss in his deserts. Any man who attains a high place among you, from the President downwards, may date his downfall f rom^that moment; for any printed lie that any notorious villain pens, although it militate directly against the character and conduct of a life, appeals at once to your distrust, and is believed. You will strain at a gnat in the way of trust- fulness and confidence, however fairly won and well deserved; but you will swallow a whole caravan of camels, if they be laden with un- worthy doubts and mean suspicions. Is this well, think you, or likely toelevate the character of the govemorsor the governed, among you?" The answer is invariably the same: "There's freedom of opinion here, you know. Every man thinks for himself, and we are not to be easily overreached. That's how our people come to be suspicious." Another prominent feature is the love of "smart" dealing: which gilds over many a swindle and gross breach of trust; many a defal- American Notes id affec- warmth !se latter educated riends. I my full n; never seem to le whole ;hted in at work pro)nise ue itself le or its 1 in the merable L plumes ssionate te of his eness of ust into Dm your for the nd your > change sooner dash it lefactor, warded; ive been deserts, resident printed directly to your of trust- eed; but vith un- >r likely igyou?" opinion ot to be ous." ;: which a defal- 195 cation, public and private; and enables many a knave to hold his head up with the best, who well deserves a halter; though it has not been without a retributive operation, for this smartness has done more in a few years to impair the public credit, and to crippl.' the public resources, than dull honesty, however rash, could have effected in a century. The merits of a broken speculation, or a bankruptcy, or of a successful scoundrel, are not gauged by its or h's observance of the golden rule, "Do as you would be done by," but are considered with reference to their smartness. I recollect, on both occasions of our pa- - sing that ill-fated Cairo on the Mississippi, remarking on the bad effects such gross deceits must have whf n they exploded, in generating a want of confidence abroad, and diboouraging foreign investment: but I was given to understand that this was a very smart scheme by which a deal of money had been made: and that its smartest feature was, that they forgot these things abroad, in a very short time, and speculated again, as freely as ever. The following dialogue I have held a hundred times: "Is it not a very disgraceful circumstance that such a man as So-and-so should be acquiring a large property by the most infamous and odious means, and notwithstanding all the crimes of which he has been guilty, should be tolerated and abetted by your Citizens? He is a public nuisance, is he not?" "Yes, sir." "A convicted liar?" "Yes, sir." "He has been kicked, and cuffed, and caned?" "Yes, sir." "And he is utterly dishonourable, debased, and profligate?" "Yes, sir." "In the name of wonder, then, what is his merit?" "Well, «ir, he is a smai t man." In like manner, all kinds of deficient and impolitic usages are referred to the national love of trade; though, oddly enough, it would be a weighty charge against a foreigner that he regarded the Americans as a tradint' r»- ,oi The love of trade is assigned as a ■•tom, so very prevalent in country ! hotels, having no fireside of their • morning until late at night, but ' trade is a reason why the litera- 'er unprotected: "For we are a trading people, and don't care iox ^.^etry:" though we do, by the way, profess to be very proud of our poets: while heal; 'if ul amusements] cheerful means of recreation, and wholesome fancies, must fade betoie the stem utilitarian joys of trade. These three characteristics are strongly presented at every turn, full in the stranger's view. But. the foul growth of America has a more tangled mot than this; and it strikes its fibres, deep in its licentious Press. Schools may be erected. East, West, North, and South; pupils be taught, and masters reared, by scores upon scores of thousands; colleges may thrive, churches may be crammed, temperance may be diffused, and advancing knowledge in all other forms walk through the land with giant strides: but -vhile the newspaper press of America is in, or near, its present abject state, high moral improvement in that reason for that comfc towns, of married pers own, and seldom meeti. at the hasty public mea ture of America is to re-.^- mmmmmmnKm 196 American Notes hi! country is hopeless. Year by year, it muj»t and will go back; yeur by year, the tone ot public feeling must 8i» < lower down; year by year, the Congress and the Senate must become of less account before all decent men; and year by year, the memory of the Great Fathers of the Revolution must be outraged more and more, in the bad life of their degenerate chilr!. » Among (.he herd of journals which are published in the States, there are some, the reader scarcely need be told, of character and credil . Fron'4 personal intercourse with accompiished gentlemen connected with publications of this class, I have derived both pleasure and profit. But the name of these is Few, and of the others Legion; and the influence of the good, is powerless to counteract the moral poison of the bad, Among the gentiy of America; among the well-informed and moderate: in the learned professions; at the bar and on the bench: there is, as there can bo, but one opinion, in reference to the vicious character of these infamous journals. It is dometimei contended— I will not say str&ngely, for it is natural to seek excu 'js for such a disgraco -that their influence is not so great as a visitor would sup- pose. I must be pardoned for saying that there is no wan ^nt for this plea, and that every fact and circumstance tends directly to the opposite conclusion. When any man, of any grade of desert in intellect or character, can climb to any pubUc distinction, no matter what, in America, without first grovelling down upon the earth, and benuing the knee before this monster of depravity; when any private excellence is safe from its attacks; when any social confidence is leit unbroken by it, or any tie of -'ociai decency and honour is held in the least regard; when any man in that free country has freedom of opinion, and pre- sumes to think for himself, and speak for himself, without humble reference to a censorship which, for its rampant ignorance and base dishonesty, he utterly loathes and despises in his heart; when those who most acutely feel its infamy and the reproach it casts upon the nation, and who most denounce it to each other, dare to set their heeh upon, and crush it openly, in the sight of all men: then, I will believe that its influence is lessening, apd men are returning to their manly senses. But while that Press has its evil eye in every hous ?, and its black hand in every appointment in the state, from a president to a postman; while, with ribald slander for its only stock in trade, it is the standard literature of an enormous class, who must find their read- ing in a newspaper, or they will not read at aU; so long must its odium be upon the country's head, and so long must the evil it works, be plainly vi'i)le in the Republic. To those who are accustomed to the leading English journals, or to the respectable journals of the Continent of Europe; to those who are accustomed to anything else in print and paper; it would be impossible, without an amount of extract for wliich I have neither space nor in- clination, to convey an adequate idea of this frightful engine in .J Aiuciican Notes 197 Americft. Bat if any man desire confirnia<'> , i'my statement on thi!» head, let him repair to any place in Via -My of London, wher« scattered numbers of these publications aie to \e found; and there, let him form his own opinion.* I*, would be welJ, there can be rio doubt, for the American people as a whole, if they loved the Real less, and the Ideal somewhat more. It would be well, if there were greater encouragement to lighti ^ss of heart and gaiety, and a wider cultivation of what is »>eautiful, without being eminently and directly useful. But here, I think the general remonstrance, "we are new country," which is so often advanced as an excuse for defects which are quite unjustifiable, as l>eing, of right, CMily the slow growth of an old one, may be very reasonably urged: and I yet hope to hear of there being some other national amusement in the United States, besides newspaper politics. Thny certainly are not a humorous pc^ople, and *heir temperament always impressed me as being of a dull and gloomy character. In shrewdness of remark, and a certaiii cast-iron quaintness, the Yan- kees, -^r people of New England, unquestionably take the lead; as they do in most other evidences of intelligence. But in travelling about, out of the large cities — as I have re»r ..r'<ed in former parts of these volumes — I was quite oppressed b} '.ic prevailing seriousness and melancholy air of business: which was so general and unvarying, that at every new town I came to, I seemed to meet the very same people whom I had left behind me, at the last. Such defects as are perceptible in the national manners, seem, to me, to be referable, in a great degree, to this en se: which has generated a dull, sullen persistence in coeirse usages, and rejected the graces of life as undeserving of attention. There is no doubt that Washington, who was always most scrupulous and exact on points of ceremony, perceived the tendency towards this mistake, even in his time, and did his utmost to correct it. I cannot hold with other writeiS on these subjects that the pre- valence of various forms of dissent in America, is in any way attri- butable to the non-existence there of an established church: indeed, I think the temper of the people, if it admitted of such an Institution being founded amongst them, would lead them to desert it, as a matter of course, merely because it was established. But, supposing it to exist, I doubt its probable efficacy in summoning the wandering sheep to one great fold, simply because of the immense amount of dissent which prevails at home; and because I do not find in America any one form of religion with which we in Europe, or even in England, are unacquainted. Dissenters resort thither in great numbers, as other people do, simply because it is a land of resort, and great settlements *NOTE TO TUE Original Edition. — '3r let him refer to c^a able, an J pfcrtertly truthful article, in The Foreign Quarterly Review, published in the present nioiith of October, to which my attention has been attracted, since these sheets have been passing through the press. He will find some specimens there, by no mean.-, remark- able to any man wiio has been in America, but sufficiently striking to one who has not. < !il VfM\i 198 American Notes ■ of them are founded, because ground can be purchased, and towns and villages reared, where there were none of the human creation before. But even the Shakers emigrated from England; our country is not unknown to Mr. Joseph Smith, the apostle of Mormonism, or to his benighted disciples; I have beheld religious scenes myself in some of our populous towns which can hardly be surpassed by an American camp-meeting; and I am not aware that any instance of superstitious imposture on the one hand, and superstitious credulity on the other, has had its origin in the United States, which we cannot more than parallel by the precedents of Mrs. Southcote, Mary Tofts the rabbit- breeder, or even Mr. Thorn of Canterbury: which latter case arose, some time after the dark ages had passed away. The Republican Institutions of America undoubtedly lead the people to assert their self-respect and their equality; but a traveller is bound to bear those Institutions in his mind, and not hastily to resent the near approach of a class of strangers, who, at home, would keep aloof. This characteristic, when it was tinctured with no foolish pride, and stopped short of no honest service, never offended me; and I very seldom, if ever, experienced its rude or unbecoming display. Once or twice it was comically developed, as in the following case; but this was an amusing incident), and not the rule, or near it. I wanted a pair of boots at a certain town, for I had none to travel in, but those with the memorable cork soles, which were much too hot for the fiery decks of a steamboat. I therefore sent a message to an artist in boots, importing, with my compliments, that I should be happy to see him, if he would do me the polite favour t*^ call. He very kindly returned for answer, that he would "look round" at six o'clock that evening. I was lying on the sofa, with a book and a wine-glass, at about that time, when the door opened, and a gentleman in a stiff cravat, within a year or two on either side of thirty, entered, in his hat and gloves; walked up to the loo:dng-glass; arranged his hair; took off his gloves; slowly produced a measure from the uttermost depths of his coat- pocket and requested me, in a languid tone, to "unfix" my straps. I complied, but looked with some curiosity at his hat, which was still upon his head. It might have been that, or it might have been the heat — but he took it off. Then, he sat himself down on a chair oppo- site to me; rested an arm on each knee; and, leaning forward very much, took from the ground, by a great effort, the specimen of metro- politan workmanship which I had just pulled off: whistling, pleas- antly, as he did so. He turned it over and over; surveyed it with a contempt no language can express; and inquired if I wished him to fix me a boot like that? I courteously replied, that provided the boots were large enough, I would leave the rest to him; that if convenient and practicable, 1 should not object to their bearing some resemblance to the model then before him; but that I would be entirely guided by, and would beg to lea', c the whole subject to, his judgment and dis- cretion. "You an't partickler, about this scoop in the heel, I suppose )wns and n before. :y is not or to his sonie of Linerican Tstitious lie other, ore than e rabbit- se arose, lead the iveller is to resent uld keep sh pride, id I very . Once or ; this was to travel nuch too 3ssage to hould be He very X o'clock )out that ,t, within d gloves; is gloves; his coat- straps. I was still been the lir oppo- ard very 3f metro- g, pleas- it with a d him to the boots nvenient jmblance iided by, 1 ,i:^ ixiiu. uis- '. suppose American Notes 199 then?" says he: "we don't foller that, here." I repeated my last observation. He looked at himself in the glass again; went closer to It to dash a grain or two of dust out of the corner of his eye- and settled his cravat. All this tine, my leg and foot were in the air "Nearly ready, sir ?" I inquired. "Well, pretty nigh," he said; "keep steady. I kept as steady as I could, both in foot and face; and having by this time got the dust out, and found his pencil-case, he measured me. and made the necessary notes. When he had finished, he fell into his old attitude, and taking up the boot again, mused for some time. And this." he said, at last, "is an English boot, is it? This is a London boot, eh?" "That, sir." I replied, "is a London boot." He mused over it again, after the manner of Hamlet with Yorick's skull; nodded his head, as who should say. "I pity the Institi *ions that led to the pro- duction of this boot!"; rose; put up his pencil, notes, and paper- glancing at himself in the glass, all the time— put on his hat- drew on his gloves very slowly; and finally walked out. When he had been gone about a minute, the door reopened, and his hat and his head reappeared. He looked round the room, and at the boot again, which was still lying on the floor; appeared thoughtful for a minute- and then said "Well, good artemoon." "Good afternoon, sir," said I: and that was the end of the interview. There is but one other head on which I wish to offer a remark; and that has reference to the public health. In so vast a country, where there are thousands of millions of acres of land yet unsettled and uncleared, and on every rood of which, vegetable decomposition is annually taking place; where there are so many great rivers, and such opposite varieties of climate; there cannot fail to be a great amount of sickness at certain seasons. But I may venture to sa5^ after con- versing with many members of the medical profession in America, that I am not singular in the opinion that much of the disease which does prevail, might be avoided, if a few common precautions were observed. Greater means of personal cleanliness, are indispensable to this end; the custom of hastily swallowing large quantities of animal food, three times a-day. and rushing back to sedentary pur- suits after each meal, must be changed; the gentler sex must go more wisely clad, and take more healthful exercise; and in the latter clause, the males must be included also. Above all, in public institutions, and throughout the whole of every town and city, the system of ventila- tion, and drainage, and removal of impurities requires to be thoroughly revised. There is no local Legislature in America which may not study Mr. Chadwick's excellent Report upon the Sanitary Condition of our Labouring Classes, with immense advantage. I HAVE now arrived at the close of this book. I have little reason to believe, from certain warnings I have had since I returned to England, that it will be tenderly or favourably received by the American i"-'i'-, a,iia a3 i nave vviiLLcii iiic iruxn m relation to the mass of those who form their judgments and express their opinions, it will it] 1 1 1 \ i 1 ; , ft lii 200 American Notes be seen that I have no desire to court, by any adventitious means, the popular applause. It is enough for me, to know that what I have set down in these pages, cannot cost me a single friend on the other side of the Atlantic, who is, in anything, deserving of the name. For the rest, I put my trust, implicitly, in the spirit in which they have been conceived and penned; and I can bide my time. I have made no reference to my reception, nor have I suffered it to influence me in what I have written; for, in either case, I should have offered but a sorry acknowledgment, compared with that I bear within my breast, towards those partial readers of my former books, across the Water, who met me with an open hand, and not with one that closed upon an iron muzzle. ^ii t THE END POSTSCRIPT ^niL'^^l?^::'Ytrb;ZZn^r:^^''' *^ ^Sthof Apnl. ,868. of the United States of Amer^aT^ac 'ZTS*^*^""^ 2* *« ^'^ among others: ■America, i mac . the followmg observations ssi:'m%tnToS;'h:;^b^tre^tS^^^^^ ever and wheresoever to exnress mv w7h = !, "'^'^''sion, whatso- second reception in ^rk^i^^^StoVj^XS^t^l-^Z^^' ,7 rh^ir^^n-rthe^raSht"^:?! i''^°' '""^^^^^^^^^^^^ side,-changes morarchaLes Xskal'l!^^^^^^^ '"' °" «"^^ land subdued and peopled chM»S in 'tS ^ i" *'' ^'"°'""' «* changes in the growth o?' oSdtie 1^^^^°'/%'' °'^ "*'^^- changes in the graces and ameni?[es of Ufe ^^ "-j' °' 'p^™8"'"°°. out whose advancement no advancement ran fLt i ^"*- ■"'*■ Nor am I. beheve me so aSosantT, tl T ^^^ '^"^ "nywhere. twentyyearstherehav;bLt3angesnmeT?thaflH'"/"t.""'^ to learn and no extreme impresS to S-r'r-^t *"^ , ° "^^ first. And this brings me to a tToininn ^..^"Tt , ''™ ' ^^ '^«''« landed in the United^ra^eflast'rvlX^'^tservlT^'stri" sir ' though sometimes tempted to brpak if v,, 4. • ^ ^ ^*^^*^^ silence, will, with your good kave take von nV n m reference to which I Its mformation to be not strictly acLrate w,fh ri? l''^^'''"''^^ ever read m my present state of existence. tCs the Xonr Lh ^^ severance with which I Havp fnr ^r^r^L Z ZT ' vigour and per- i:-JJ'.™p-^.'-yo^XTa"'t':Car7o^^^^^^^^^^^ ^o^..^^y,uK:ii. sucn testimony to the gigantic chanapc ir^■^^^•~" '" T^ as I have hinted at to-nigh';. Also, fo^ecord l^af XlveVrhav"^ ii ilu lis 202 Postscript been, in the smallest places equally with the largest, I have been received with unsurpassable politeness, delicacy, sweet temper, hospitality, consideration, and with unsurpassable respect for the privacy daily enforced upon me by the nature of my avocation here and the state of my health. This testimony, so long as I live, and so long as my descendants have any legal right in my books,' I shall cause to be republished, as an appendix to every copy of those two books of mine in which I have referred to America. And this I will do and cause to be done, not in mere love and thankfulness, but because I regard it as an act of plain justice and honour." I said these words with the greatest earnestness that I could lay upon them, and I repeat them in print here with equal earnestness. So long as this book shall last, I hope that they will form a part of it! and will be fairly read as inseparable from my experiences and im- pressions of America. May, 1868. Ch.\rles Dickens. ti MASTER HUMPHREY'S CLOCK I J I a it CHARLES DICKENS: Rorn 1812— Died 1870 Editor's V^te Nothing needs to he added to the account given in the following Life of Dickens, of how, in 1840, Dickens started Master Humphrey's Clock ; and how — although a regular weekly timekeeper — he stopped it in 1841. There does not appear to he any discovery of originals except of those characters which appear also in the Pickwick Papers. Sam Weller's name was suggested hy that of Sam Vale, an actor who, in a farce called The Boarding House, took the part of a comic servant, and who was given to what are now known as Sam- Weller-isms — e.g., " 'most musical, most mollancholy !* — as the cricket said when he heard the tea-kettle." The identification of Tony Weller is disputed. This edition is printed from the one carefully corrected by the author in 1867-8. si '" imi^ ;! ' .? P*!'k f: -fin ■i»i w .ilWii mm t u mm H MASTER HUMPHREY'S CLOCK BY CHARLES DICKENS IlLUSTRATED BY H. K. BROWNE (PHIZ) A. GEORGE CATTERMOLE ti LONDON: HAZELL, WATSON & VINEY, LTD. i-i! MAS i u MAJ The rea( true, my but if I s should s] and rega connecte residena possible set, that I amn kind are my grea life; — wl matters with me, a time h I live bygone < ladies, 1( courtyai that fail that the down. I the echo they we rustling to recog Those would d< pie dwe] hold it ii by clun: closets' i ing pass n i [i i MASTER HUMPHREY'S CLOCK > ( MASTER HUMPHREY. FROM HIS CLOCK-SIDE IN THE CHIMNEY-CORNER The reader must not expect to know where I live. At present, it is true, my abode may be a question of little or no import to anybody; but if I should carry my readers with me, as I hope to do, and there should spring up between them and me feelings of homely aftection and regard attaching something of interest to matters ever so slightly connected with my fortunes or my speculations, even my place of residence might one day ha 'e a kind of charm for them. Bearing this possible contingency in mind, I wish them to understand, in the out- set, that they must never expect to know it. I am not a churlish old man. Friendless I can never be, for all man- kind are my kindred, and I am on ill terms with no one member of my great family. But for many years I have led a lonely, solitary life; — what wound I sought to heal, what sorrow to forget, originally, matters not now; it is sufficient that retirement has become a habit with me. and that I am unwilling to break the spell which for so long a time has shed its quiet influence upon m^/ home and heart. I live in a venerable suburb of London, in an old house which in bygone days was a famous resort for many roysterers and peerless ladies, long since departed. It is a silent, shady place, with a paved courtyard so full of echoes, that sometimes I am tempted to believe that faint responses to the noises of old times linger there yet, and that these ghosts of sound haunt my footsteps as I pace it up and down. I am the more confirmed in this belief, because, of late years, the echoes that attend my walks have been less loud and marked than they were wont to be; and it is pleasanter to imagine in them the- rustling of silk brocade, and the light step of some lovely girl, than to recognise in their altered note the failing tread of an old man. Those who like to read of brilliant rooms and gorgeous furniture would derive but little pleasure from a minute description of roy sim- ple dwelling. It is dear to me for the same reason that they would hold it in slight regard. Its worm-eaten doors, and low ceilings crossed by clumsy beams; its walls of wainscot, dark stairs, and ^.^ing closets; its small chambers, communicating with each other by wind- ing passages or narrow steps; iia many nooks, scarce larger than its 209 m ! 11 i 1 I 210 Master Humphrey's Clock basks in his long sleep and the "Jhtrr'v'", '" ""^ ''°'"<= ">« one undisturbed. I haveTpleasu-e tZ ^i'^' *"' ''"''' '"<"" =«<="■■« and many butterflies have ^prun. J the fi;«^°" ^ 'T T'"'^ ''"^' "ow ^Whl'^Tr';:^ """ -"er'o/thcs''e"'om wair '"'" "«" ^"" ^- nc,^ht"ur?w" e?uri:u^^oTnS^wh:f *■ ^'"rr y-- "«<>• fe why I lived so much abne As tTme we„Tn'„' ""'' *h™« I '^"me. and unsatisfied on these ports' Ih^r^Z^^u °"'/"<l they still remained extending for half a mi"e round a^d in'o^ r' °'^ P°P"'" '<'™'^"t. Various rumours were drSed ?o " "pLjuXri Z" '"" ""''• mfidel, a con urcr, a kidnapper of children a r»f„„^' '^ 'P^'' ='" I^was the C^ect o^. suspicffi^^^^^^^^^^ ~ coStTlrc/rne^d^ra?^^^^^^^^^^ but. on the to relent. I found my footstepTno TonV.r , ^^l!'* "'^P' ^^^X began been before, and obLrved that ?i^^ ^""^^^f ^^ ^^^^ ^ad often retreated, but would stlnd and I'Z T^"" ^"? '*^*^^"^" '^^ I^ng^r I took tnis for a good omen amf w.if ^""^ T ^ P^'^^ ^^eir doors. By degrees I begf n to mTe'fnenr^r^ patiently for better times, chough they werl iust shv of fnl.l ^"^ong these humble folks: and and L pass on In a ittUe t £. fh^' """"J"^ ^'^^ *^""^ "^^^ ^^Y^ would makeTpoTnt of ctminTin fh? Z^''"' ^ *^^^ *^"« ^^^^^ted usual hour, and^rd or courtesl to m!^" kmT ^"^ ^^"^°^« ^^ the within my reach and ran Iwavnn?^!' ^^^^^J^"' too. came timidly heads and'^bade them be ?oodl^?L2oo^^^ ^ ?^"^^ ^^^^^ more familiar. From excUan^inl ml^f ^ 1'"^^ P^^P^^ ^0°" g^ew neighbours. I graraUy l^caTe^^^^^^^ "^^J^^^-" ^''^ "^^ «' ^^'^ ^nT^;s!si^b?h4SS-r^^^^^^ pi; e. to acknowledge no other nam^Vh.nW^ 7 ^^""^^ *" *bis detractors. I was Ugly HumDhrev Whi t K^^^'P^^^y- ^'^^ "^Y into friends. I was ^Sr SphrV and O^^^^^^^ length I settled down into plai Ser Humnhr.t ^^rP^'^^' ^""^ stood to be the title most Die- l^t^ Humphrey, which was under- matter of course has ?tLoSe?LtsoZ.^.^'' ^"^u'° completely a my morning walk in my S^oirtva^dT^T "^^^"J ^"^ *^^^»g has a profound respeS for me andt^^d n^^^^^ ""^ barber-who honours for the world4iow!ng forth on ihl' Ll"" '"f ' ^^"^^" "^> touchingthestateof''M^?;rS^uS.v^Hr.,?^^^^^^^ 1 -~ -_. .^.v.i, »"« v-uiiiiiiumcai- Master Humphrey's Clock 211 I am a mis-shapen, deformed old man ^ pam— that and It was summer weather —I am snr^ of fho^ s^«-"er m a garcien, IP. ii n 1.1 . 1 ^-f-.-- 'M 212 Master Humphrey's Clock Well, well,— all these sorrows are past. My glancing at them mav not be Without its use, for it may help in some meilre to expTaln ^^L ^""^^S^^ "Z^ ^^^ ^"" ^"^^^^^ t« the inanimatHwects thS peopl.e my chamber, and how I have come to look upon tSm rather in the hght of old and constant friends, than as mere chTirs a«d tables which a little money could replac^ at will ^ compalionabt'o^^^^ ^" **'"'" ^' "^^ Clock,-my old. cheerful, companionable Clock. Ixow can I ever convey to others an idea of f hi comfort and consolation that this old Clock h'Ls been for yea^^^^^^^^ It IS associated with my earliest recollections. It sto^ upon The staircase at home (I call it home still mechanically), nigh siXvears ago. I iike It for that; but it is not on that account nofbecauL^'tS tST^r^^'^'^'V''. ^^;"g^«''^kencase curiously and ricWy carved that I pnze It as I do. I incline to it as if it were alive and could undertstand and give me back the love I bear it And what other thing chat has not life could cheer me as it does? what other thing that has not life (I will not say how few things that have) could have proved the same patient, true. untTrinrfriendP I'^Ts cS^Lt^oiL't' V^^-^^"^ ^^^"^^^ ^^^-"^« feelingri Sy f.llltuff'-^^^^ ""^'^'"^ "'y ^yes from my book and looking gratefully towards it. the face reddened by the glow of the shS wl'nH^^! f emed to relax from its staid expression and to regard mf kiad^yl how often in the summer twilight, when my thoughts have r^ltnl''^".^ !? ^ "?^^a"^holy past, have its regularwh^perings recalled them to the calm and peaceful present ! how often in t& dead txanquiUity of night has its bell broken the oppressive si>nce and r^ts i7e r/rtcL^^^ ---'^ ^^^"^ mVK^o7ovrer arclLd'JnnV?.^'""^.'''''""^''^'"/'^'^^^ ^^*^'^^^ *^^ fi^^side and a low arched door leading to my bedroom Its fame is diffused so exten- sively throng} out th3 neighbourhood, that I have ofien the Satis- faction of hearing the publican, or the baker, and sometimes even the paxish,clerk, petitioning my housekeeper of whom I shall Z Z much to say by and by) to inform him the ixact time by Mast;r Humphrey's c ock. My barber, to whom I have reTerred woufd rarac?i^r:d"l\m\" '^" T' """^ ''' ^^^^^ ''' ^^^ clSio'r t ff no+ 3" '1^™ ^^^Py *° ^^y' another, inseparably connecting oth^i^^li^ari'sh^aCrar ^^^ -^-^^-^^- -'ththose-of anci'^Jn'^fhi^f ^^""^ i""' ^ ^°"^ ^'"^^ ^^*^°"t ^"y friend or acquaint- and se\s^^ TIT, °^ f ^ wanderings by night and day, at all hours ana seasons, in citv strppfQ and nnif+ rr^- ■«- ^- -^ ^ - ,. a.uj ^uiGi. couiiny piii cs, 1 Came to i^e Master Humphrey's Clock 213 familiar with certain faces, and to take it to heart as quite a heavy disappointment if they failed to present themselves each at its accustomed spot. But these were the only friends I knew, and bevond them I had none. ^ It happened, however, when I had gone on thus for a long time, that I formed an acquaintance with a deaf gentleman, which ripened into intimacy and close companionship. To this hour. I am ignorant of his name. It is his humour to conceal it, or he has a reason and purpose for so doing. In either case, I feel that he has a right to require a return of the trust he has reposed; and as he has never sought to discover my secret, I have never sought to penetrate his. There may have been something in this tacit confidence in each other flattering and pleasant to us both, and it may have imparted in the beginnin'^ an additional zest, perhaps, to our friendship. Be this as it may we have grown to be like brothers, and still I only know him as the deaf gentleman. I have said that retirement has become a habit with me. When I add, that the deaf gentleman and I have two friends, I communicate nothing which is inconsistent with that declaration. I spend many hours of every day in solitude and study, have no friends or change of friends but these, only see them at stated periods, and am supposed to be of a retired spirit by the very nature and obj ect of our association We are men of secluded habits, with something of a cloud upon our oarly fortunes, whose enthusiasm, nevertheless, has not cooled with age, whose spirit of romance is not yet quenched, who are content to ramble through the world in a pleasant dream, rather than ever waken again to its harsh reahties. We are alchemists who would extract the essence of perpetual youth from diist and ashes, tempt coy Truth in many light and airy forms from the bottom of her well and discover one crumb of comfort or one grain of good in the com- monest and least-regarded matter that passes through our crucible. Spirits of past times, creatures of imagination, and people of to-day are alike the objects of our seeking, and, unlike the objects of search with most philosophers, we can insure their coming at our command The deaf gentleman and I first began to beguile our days with these fancies, and our nights in communicating them to each other. We are now four. But in my room there are six old chairs, and we have decided that the two empty seats shaii always be placed at our table when we meet, to remind us that we may yet increase onr company by that number, if we should find two men to our mind. When one among us dies, his chair will always be set in its usual place, but never occupied again; and I have caused my will to be '■ drawn out. that when we are all dead the house shall be shut up, and the vacant chairs still left in tl, - accustomed places. It is pleasant to think that even then our shades may. perhaps, assemble together as of yore we did, and join in ghostly converse. — .-5 • • J rrvv^., o-o tiic viut,n. BLiiikcu Lcii, wc meeu xiL tiie second stroke of two, I am alone. \ \ Ir? 214 Master Humphrey's Clock And now shall I tell how that my old servant, besides giving us note of time, and ticking cheerful encouragement of our proceedings, lends its name to our society, which for its punctuality and my love is christened "Master Humphrey's Clock"? Now shall I tell how that in the bottom of the old dark closet, where the steady pendulum throbs and beats with healthy action, though the pulse of him who made it stood still long ago, and never moved again, there are piles of dusty papers constantly placed there by our hands, that we may link our enjoyment with my old friend, and draw means to beguile time from the heart of time itself? Shall I, or can I, tell with what a secret pride I open this repository when we meet at night, and still find new store of pleasure in my dear old Clock? Friend and companion of my solitude ! mine is not a selfish love; I would not keep your merits to myself, but disperse something of pleasant association with your image through the whole wide world; I would have men couple with your name cheerful and healthy thoughts; I would have them believe that you keep true and honest time; and how it would gladden me to know that they recognised some hearty English work in Master Humphrey's clock ! i THE CLOCK-CASE It is my irtention constantly to address my readers from the chimney-corner, and I would fain hope that such accounts as I shall give them of our histories and proceedings, our quiet speculations or more busy adventures, will never be unwelcome. Lest, however, I should grow prolix in the outset by lingering too long upon our little association, confounding the enthusiasm with which I regard this chief happiness of my life with that minor degree of interest which those to whom I address myself may be supposed to feel for it, I have deemed it expedient to break off as they have seen. But, still clinging to my old friend, ard naturally desirous that all its merits should be known, I am tempted to open (somewhat irregularly and against our laws, I must admit) the clock-case. The first roll of paper on which I lay my hand is in +' e writing of the deaf gentleman. I shall have to speak of him in my next paper; and how can I better approach that welcome task then by prefacing it with a production of his own pen, consigned to the safe keeping of my honest Clock by his own hand? The manuscript runs thus: INTRODUCTION TO THE GIANT CHRONICLES Once upon a time, that is to say, in this our time, — the exact year, month, and day are of no matter, — there dwelt in the city of London a substantial citizen, who united in his sinD^Ie nersnn thp dif^nitif^ -'^f wholesale fruiterer, alderman, common-councilman, and member of [iving us ;eedings, my love low that mdulum lim who are piles we may 1 beguile I what a and still sh love; thing of e world; healthy i honest ;ognised •om the s I shall tions or vever, I ur little ird this t which , I have that all newhat ,se. The :he deaf nd how t with a of my st year, London Master Humphrey's Clock 215 the worshipful C^^mpany of Patten-makers; who had superadded to these extraordinaiy distinctions the important post and title of Sheriff, and who at length, and to crown all, stood next in rotation for the high and honourable office of Lord Mayor. He was a very substantial citizen indeed. His face was like the full moon in a fog, with two little holes punched out for his eyes, a very ripe pear stuck on for his nose, and a wide gash to serve for a mouth. The girth of his waistcoat was hung up and lettered in his tailor's shop as an extraordinary curiosity. He breathed like a heavy snorer, and his voice in speaking came tnickly forth, as if it were oppressed and stifled by feather-beds. He trod the ground like an elephant, and eat and drank like — like nothing but an alderman, as he was. This worthy citizen had risen to his great eminence froin small beginnings. He had once been a very lean, weazen little boy, never dreaming of carrying such a weight of flesh upon his bones or of money in his pockets, and glad enough to take his dinner at a baker's door, and his tea at a pump. But he had long ago forgotten all this, as it was proper that a wholesale fruiterer, alderman, common- councilman, member of the worshipful Company of Patten-makers, past sheriff, and, above all, a Lord Mayor that was to be, should; and he never forgot it more completely in all his life than on the eighth of November in the year of his election to the great golden civic chair, which was the day before his grand dinner at Guildhall. It happened that as he sat that evening all alone in his counting- house, looking over the bill of fare for next day, and checking off the fat capons in fifties, and the turtle-soup by the hundred quarts, for his private amusement, — it happened that as he sat alone occupied in these pleasant calculations, a strange man came in and asked him how he did, adamg, "If I am half as much changed as you, sir, you have no recollection of me, I am sure." The strange man was not over and above well dressed, and was very far from being fat or rich-looking in any sense of the word, yet he spoke with a kind of modest confidence, and assumed an easy, gentlemanly sort of an air, to which nobody but a rich man can law- fully presume. Besides this, he interrupted the good citizen just as he had reckoned three hundred and seventy-two fat capons, and was carrying them over to the next column; and as if that were not aggra- vation enough, the learned recorder for the city of London had only ten minutes previously gone out at that very same door, and had turned round and said, "Good night, my lord." Yes, he had said, "my lord"; — he, a man of birth and education, of che Honourable Society of the Middle Temple, Barrister-at-Law, — he who had an uncle in the House of Commons, and an aunt almost but not quite in the House of 3!.ords (for she had married a feeble peer, and made him vote as she liked), — he, this man, this learned recorder, had said, "my lord." "I'll not wait till to-morrow to give you your title, my Lord Mavor." savs he. with a bow and a smile! "■^'■qu are Lord Mavo? de facto, if not dejure. Good night, my lord." I 1 fjlj-. 21 6 Master Humphrey's Clock The Lord Mayor elect thought of this, and turning to the stranger, and sternly bidding him "go out of his private counting-house," brought forward the three hundred and seventy-two fat capons, and went on with his account. "Do you remember," said the other, stepping forward, — "do you remember little Joe Toddyhigh?" The port wine fled for a moment from the fruiterer's nose as he muttered, "Joe Toddyhigh ! What about Joe Toddyhigh?" "/ am Joe Toddyhigh," cried the visitor. "Look at me, look hard at me, — harder, harder. You know me now? You know little Joe again? What a happiness to us both, to meet the very night before your grandeur! O! give me your hand. Jack,— both hands,— both, for the sake of old times." "You pinch me, sir. You're a-hurting of me," said the Lord Mayor elect pettishly. "Don't, — suppose anybody should come, — Mr. Toddy- high, sir." "Mr. Toddyhigh!" repeated the other ruefully. "O, don't bother," said the Lord Mayor elect, scratching his head. "Dear me ! Why, I thought you was dead. What a fellow you are !" Indeed, it was a pretty state of things, and worthy the tone of vexation and disappointment in which the Lord Mayor spoke. Joe Toddyhigh had befen a poor boy with him at Hull, and had often- times divided his last penny and parted his last crust to relieve his wants; for though Joe was a destitute child in those times, he was as faithful and affectionate in his friendship as ever man of might could be. They parted one day to seek their fortunes in different directions. Joe went to sea, and the now wealthy citizen begged his way to London. They separated with many tears, like foolish fellows as they were, and agreed to remain fast friends, and if they lived, soon to communicate again. When he was an errand-boy, and even in the early days of his apprenticeship, the citizen had many a time trudged to the Post- office to ask if there were any letter from poor little Joe, and had gone home again with tears in his eyes, when he found no news of his only friend. The world is a wide place, and it was a long time before the letter came; when it did, the writer was forgotten. It turned from white to yellow from lying in the Post-ofhce with nobody to claim it, and in course of time was torn up with five hundred others, and sold lor waste-paper. And now at last, and when it might least have been expected, here was this Joe Toddyhigh turning up and claiming acquaintance with a great public character, who on the morrow would be cracking jokes with the Prime Minister of England, and who had only, at any time during the next twelve months, to say the word, and he could shut up Temple Bar, and make it no thorough- fare for the king himself ! "I am sure I don't know what to say, Mr. Toddyhigh," said the Lord Mayor elect; "I really don't. It's very inconvenient^ I'd sooner have given twenty pound, — it's very inconvenient, really." Master Humphrey's Clock 217 A thought had come into his mind, that perhaps his old friend might say somethmg passionate which would give him an excuse for bemg angry himself. No such thing. Joe looked at him steadily, but very mildly, and did not open his lips. , '?^f?^^^ ^ ^^^" P^y y°" ^^^* ^ ow« yo"." said the Lord Mayor elect, fidgeting in his chair. "You lent me— I think it was a shilling or some small coin— when we parted company, and that of course I shall pay with good interest. I can pay my way with any man. and always have done. If you look into the Mansion House the day after to-morrow,— some time after dusk.— and ask for my private clerk you'll find he has a draft for you. I haven't got time to say anyth'n more just now. unless."— he hesitated, for. coupled with a strong desire to ghtter for once in all his glory in the eyes of his former com- panion, was a distrust of his appearance, which might be more shabby than he could tell by that feeble light.— "unless you'd like to come to the dmner to-morrow. I don't mind your having this ticket if you like to take it. A great many people would give their ears for it. I can tell you." His old friend took the card without speaking a word, and instantly departed. Hissunburnt face and grey hair werepresent to thecitizen's mmd for a loment; but by the time he reached three hundred and eighty-one fat capons, he had quite forgotten him. Joe Toddyhigh had nev r been in the capital of Europe before and he wandered up and down the streets that night amaied at the number of churches and other public buildings, the splendour of the shops, the riches that were heaped up on every side, the glare of light m which they were displayed, and the concourse of people who hurried to and fro. indifferent, apparently, to all the wonders that surrounded them. But in all the long streets and broad squares there were none but strangers; it was quite a relief to turn down a by-way and hear his own footsteps on the pavement. He went home to his mn, thought that London was a dreary, desolate place, and x'elt dis- posed to doubt the existence of one true-hearted man in the whole worshipful Company of Patten-makeis. Finally, he went to bed, and dreamed that he and the Lord Mayor elect were boys again. He went next day to the dinner; and when in a burst of light and music, and in the midst of splendid decorations and surrounded by brilliant company, his former friend appeared at the head of the Hall, and was hailed with shouts and cheering, he cheered and shouted with the best, and for the moment could have cri( The next moment he cursed his weakness in behalf of a man so changed and selfish, and quite hated a jolly-looking old gentleman opposite for declaring himself in the pride of his heart a Patten-maker. As the banquet proceeded, he took more and more to heart the rich citizen's unkindness; and that, not from any envy, but because 1^^ !!^* ?i^* ^ ^^^.^^ ^^^ ^*^*^ ^"^ fortune could all the better afford to iccogiiisc uii old friend, even if he werxi poor and obscure. The more he thought of this, the more lonely and sad he felt. When the l?\ 2l8 Master Humphrey's Clock I I company dispersed and adjourned to the ball-room, he paced the hall and passages alone, ruminating in a very melancholy condition upon the disappointment he had experienced. It chanced, while he was lounging about in this moody state, that he stumbled upon a flight of stairs, dark, steep, and narrow, which he ascended without any thought about the matter, and so came into a little music-gallery, empty and deserted. From this elevated post, which commanded the whole hall, he amused himself in looking down upon the attendants who were clearing away the fragments of the feast very lazily, and drinking out of all the bottles and glasses with most commendable perseverance. His attention gradually relaxed, and he feU fast asleep. When he awoke, he thought there must be something the matter with his eyes; but, rubbing them a little, he soon found that the moonlight was really streaming through the east window, that the lamps were all extinguished, and that he was alone. He listened, but no distant murmur in the echoing passages, not even the shutting of a door, broke the deep silence; he groped his way down the stairs, and found that the door at the bottom was locked on the other side. He began now to comprehend that he must have slept a long time, that he had been overlooked, and was shut up there for the night. His first sensatioA, perhaps, was not altogether a comfortable one, for it was a dark, chilly, earthy-smelling place, and something too large, for a man so situated, to feel at home in. However, when the momentary consternation of his surprise was over, he made light of the accident, and resolved to feel his way up the stairs again, and make himself as comfortable as he could in the gallery until morning. As he turned to execute this purpose, he heard the clocks strike three. Any such invasion of a dead stillness as the striking of distant clocks, causes it to appear the more intense and insupportable when the sound has ceased. He listened with strained attention in the hope that some clock, lagging behind its fellows, had yet to strike, — look- ing all the time into the profound darkness before him, until it seemed to weave itself into a black tissue, patterned with a hundred reflec- tions of his own eyes. But the bells had all pealed out their warning for that once, and the gust of wind that moaned through the place seemed cold anc heavy with their iron breath. The time and circumstances were favourable to reflection. He tried to keep his thoughts to the current, unpleasant though it \»ras, in which they had moved all day, and to think with what a romantic feeling he had looked forward to shaking his old friend by the hand before he died, and what a wide and cruel difference there was be- tween the meeting they had had, and that which he had so often and so long anticipated. Still, he was disordered by waking to such sudden loneliness, and could not prevent his mind from running upon odd tales of neonle of undoubted courao^e. who, beincf shut ud b^'' nisfht in vaults or churches, or other dismal places, had scaled great heights I, i '■/■ ^^ Of id Jficmc^ 'I H'l i,Jl Master Humphrey's Clock 221 to get out, and fled from silence as they had never done froioi danger. This brought to his mind the moonlight through the window, and bethinking himself of it, he groped his way back up the crooked stairs — but very stealthily, as though he were fearful of being overheard. He was very much astonished when he approached the gallery again, to see a light in the building: still more so, on advancing hastily and looking round, to observe no visible Sv^arce from which it could proceed. But how much greater yet was his astonishment at the Spectacle which this light revealed. The statues of the twoi giants, Gog and Magog, each above fourteen feet in height, those which* succeeded to still older and more bar- barous figures, after the Great Fire of London, and which stand in the Guildhall to this day, were endowed with life and motioou These guardian genii of the City had quitted their pedestals, and reclined in easy attitudes in the great stained-glass window. Between them was an ancient cask, which seemed to be full of wine; for the younger Giant, clapping his huge hand upon it, and throwing up his mighty leg, burst into an exulting laugh, which reverberated through the hall like thunder. Joe Toddyhigh instinctively stooped down, and, more dead than alive, felt his hair stand on end, his knees knock together, and a cold damp break out upon hisforehead. But even at that minute curiosity prevailed over every other feeling, and somewhat reassured by the good-humour of the Giants and their apparent unconsciousness of his presence, he crouched in a corner of the gallery, in as small a space as he could, and, peeping between the rails, observed them closely. It was then that the elder Giant, who had a flowing grey beard; raised his thoughtful eyes to his companion's face, and in a grave and solemn voice addressed him thus: FIRST NIGHT OF THE GIANT CHRONICLES "Magog, does boisterous mirth beseem the Giant Warder of this ancient city? Is this becoming demeanour for a watchful spirit over whose bodiless head so many years have rolled, so many changes swept like empty air— in whose impalpable nostrils the scent of blood and crime, pestilence, cruelty, and horror, has been famu.ar as breath to mortals — in whose sight Time has gathered in the harvest of cen- turies, and garnered so many crops of human pride, affections, hopes^ and sorrows? Bethink you of our compact. The night wanes; feasting, revelry, and music have encroached upon our usual hours of solitude and morning will be here apace. T^re we are stricken mute again, be- think you of our compact." Pronouncing these latter woras with more of impatience than quite accorded with his apparent age and gravity, the Giant raised a long pole (which he still bears in his hand) and tapped his brother Giant rather smartly on the head; indeed, the blow was so smartly administered, that the latter quickly withdrew his lips from the cask. i;-. I r 222 Master Humphrey's Clock to which they had been applied, and, catching up his shield and halberd, assumed an attitude of defence. His irritation was but momentary, for he laid these weapons aside as hastily as he had assumed them, and said as he did so: •]You know, Gog, old friend, that when we animate these shapes which the Londbners of old assigned (and not unworthily) to the guardian genii of their city, we are susceptible of some of the sensa- tions which belong to human kind. Thus when I taste wine, I feel blows; when I relish the one, I disrelish the other. Therefore, Gog, the more especially as your arm is none of the lightest, keep your good staff by your side, else we may chance to differ. Peace be between us !" "Amen I" said the other, leaning his staff in the window-corner. "Why did you laugh just now?" "To think," replied the Giant Magog, laying his hand upon the cask, "of him who owned this wine, and kept it in a cellar hoarded from the light of day, for thirty years,— 'till it should be fit to drink,' quoth he. He was twoscore and ten vears old when he buried it be- neath his house, and yet never thouf,nt that he might be scarcely 'fit to drink' when the wine became so. I wonder it never occurred to him to make himself unfit to be eaten. There is very little of him left by this time." ^The night is wkning," said Gog mournfully. "I know it," replied his companion, "and I see you are impatient. But look. Through the eastern window — placed opposite to us, that the first beams of the rising sun may every morning gild our giant faces— the moon-rays fall upon the pavement in a stream of light that to my fancy sinks through the cold stone and gushes into the old crypt below. The night is scarcely past its noon, and our great charge is sleeping heavily." They ceased to speak, and looked upward at the moon. The sight of their large, black, rolling eyes filled Joe Toddyhigh with such horror that he could scarcely draw his breath. Still they took no note of him, and appeared to believe themselves quite alone. " Our compact," said Magog after a pause, "is, if I understand it, that, instead of watching here in silence through the dreary nights, we entertain each other with stories of our past experience; with tales of the past, the present, and the future; with legends of London and her sturdy citizens from the old simple times. That every night at midnight, when St. Paul's bell tolls out one, and we may move and speak, we thus discourse, nor leave such themes till the first gray gleam of day shall strike us dumb. Is that our bargain, brother?" "Yes," said the Giant Gog, "that is the league between us who guard this city, by day in spirit, and by night in body also; and never on ancient holidays have its conduits run wine more merrily than we will pour forth our legendary lore. We are old chroniclers from this time hence. The crumbled wall encircle us once more, the postern- gates are closed, the drawbridge is up. and pent in its narrow den beneath, the water foams and "struggles with the sunken starlings. Master Humphrey's Clock 223 Jerkins and quarter-staves are in the streets again, the nichtlv watch ts set. the rebel, sad and lonely in his Tower dung^n "r^es to 3!^^^ f hp Inncf^ flaring fiercely down upon the dreaming city, and vexinK the hungry dogs that scent them in ';he air anrl tear the ^mnnri ^ neath with dismal howlings. The axe. the'bl^k. tL rLl^n th^; dark chambers give signs of recent use. The Thames floaiinVD^t "elm S ithtT'"' "",t"f ""'^"^^ ^^"^^ ^ burst of musclnTa stream of light, bears suddenly to the Palace wall the last red stain brought on the tide from Traitor's Gate. But your pardon brother The night wears, and I am talking idly." P«iraon. Drother. Ihe other Giant appeared to be entirely of this opinion for durini? the foregoing rhapsody of his fellow-sentinel he had been'scratch"nf his head with an air of comical uneasiness, or rather San air that would have been very comical if he had been a dwarf or an ordinarv sized man He winked too. and though it could not be doubted for a moment that he winked to himself, still he certarnly cocked^l^e^^^^ waTthTanTrt '"' ^T^ ^^^^ *^^' ^'^^-^ wL conceal d No" was this all for he gaped; and when he gaped. Joe was horriblv re- minded of the popular prejudice on the subject of giants and of the!r fabled power of smelling out Englishmen, however^loseiy conceLe^ His alarm was such that he nearly swooned, and it waLome little time before his power of sight or hearing was restore! 4S he re! covered he found that the elder Giant vvas pressing the younger to commence the Chronicles, and that the latter was IndLCrfng to excuse hiniself. on the ground that the night was fa- spent and i? would be better to wait until the next. Well assured by this that he was certainly about to begin directly, the listener coHected Ms t^ttl^tenT^^^^^^^^ ^"' '''''^'''' ^'^'' ^^^°^ expreS^!jS In the sixteenth century and in the reien of Oucen Elizahpth nf ^onous memory (albeit her golden days are^sadlyrSwUhbl^^^^^ malter'slaLhter'^e' ^"''°" ^ "^"'^ ^-^S ■p^entice who loved S masters daughter. There were no doubt within the walls a great nTmrw^a^Si^/h^ilarm^'""'"'-- '"' ' ^'^''^ "' ^'^ "-• -' ^^ This Hugh was apprenticed to an honest Bowyer who dwelt in the wL au te aT^nf 'n^nr' '^^^^f '" P°^^^^^ ^^-^ wealurRumou? uas quite as infallible in those days as at the present time but it happened then as now to be sometimes right by accident It stumbled Z7 l^!^*l"*^' '^^"" ^' ^^^^ ^^'^ «1^ Bowyer a mint of monr hIs r- k!u^^^.^^^" ^ profitable one in the time of King Henry the Eighth, who encouraged English archery to the utmost and he Md been prudent and discreet. Thus it came to pass that Mistress AUce t^::^^^!' :!i!^J^^^ ?eiress i^ an his weaSy ward' 224 Master Humphrey's Clock If h« could have gained the heart of pretty Mistress Alice by knock- ing this conviction into stubborn people's heads, Hugh would have hii.d no cause to fear. But though the Bowyer's daughter smiled in secret to hear of his doughty deeds for her sake, and though her little waiting-woman reported all her smiles (and many more) to Hugh, and though he was &t a vast expense in kisses and small coin to recom- pense her fidelity, he made no progress in his love. He durst not whis- per it to Mistress Alice save on sure encouragement, and that she never gave him. A glance of her dark eye as she sat at the door on a summer's evening aifter prayer-time, while he and the neighbouring 'prentices exercised themselves in the street with blunted sword and buckler, would fire Hugh's blood so that none could stand before him; but then she gbnced at others quite as kindly as on him, and where was the use of cracking crowns if Mistress Alice smiled upon the cracked as well as on the cracker.? Still Hugh went on, and loved her more and more. He thought of her all day, and dreamed of her all night long. He treasured up her every word and gesture, and had a palpitation of the heart whenever he heard her footstep on the stairs or her voice in an adjoining room. To him, the old Bowyer's house was haunted by an angel; there was enchantment in the air and space in which she moved. It would have been no miracle to Hugh if flowers had sprung from the rush-strewn floors beneath the tread of lovely Mistress Alice. Never did 'prentice long to distinguish himself in the eyes of his lady-love so ardently as Hugh. Sometimes he pictured to himself the house taking fire by night, end he, when all drew back in fear, rushing through flame and smoke, and bearing her from the ruins in his arms. At other times he thought of a rising of fierce rebels, an attack upon the city, a strong assault upon the Bowyer's house in particular, and he falling on the threshold pierced with numberless wounds in defence of Mistress Alice. If he could only enact some prodigy of valour, do some wonderful deed, and let her know that she had inspired it, he thought he could die contented. Sometimes the Bowyer and his daughter would go out to supper with a worthy citizen at the fashionable hour of six o'clock, and on such occasions Hugh, wearing his blue /prentice cloak as gallantly as 'prentice might, would attend with a lantern and his trusty club to escort them home. These were the brightest moments of his life. To hold the light while Mistress Alice picked her steps, to touch her hand as he helped her over broken ways, to have her leaning on his arm, — it sometimes even came to that, — this was happiness indeed ! When the nights were fair, Hugh followed in the rear, his eyes riveted on the graceful figure of the Bowyer's daughter as she and the old man moved on before him. So they threaded the narrow winding streets of the city, now passing beneath the overhanging gables of old wooden houses whence creaking signs projected into the street, and now emerging from some dark and frowning gateway into the clear moonlight. At such times, or when the shouts 01 straggling brawlers y knock- uld have imiled in her little ugh, and recom- lot whis- that she loor on a ibauring ^ord and fore him; id where ipon the ought of d up her whenever [ig room, here was uld have ti-strewn es of his nself the , rushing lis arms. ,ck upon liar, and 1 defence ilour, do pired it, ) Slipper , and on iantly as ' club to I life. To ler hand J on his indeed ! his eyes and the winding es of old eet, and :he clear orawleis I i n ==_ -^TTbTI^ '* i I 326 Wmii ! Master Humphrey's Clock 227 met her ear, the Bowyer's daughter would look timidly back at Hugh, beseeching him to draw nearer; and then how he grasped his club and longed to do battle with a dozen rufflers, for the love of Mistress Alice ! The old Bowyer was in the habit of lending money on interest to the gallants of the Court, and thus it happened that many a richly- dressed gentleman dismounted at his door. More waving plumes and gallant steeds, indeed, were seen at the Bowyer's house, and more embroidered silks and velvets sparkled in his dark shop and darker private closet, than at any merchant's in the city. In those times no less than in the present it would seem that the richest-looking cavaliers often wanted money the most. Of these glittering clients there was one who always came alone. He was nobly mounted, and, having no attendant, gave his horse in charge to Hugh while he and the Bowyer were closeted within. Once as he sprung into the saddle Mistress Alice was seated at an upper window, and before she could withdraw he had doffed his jewelled cap and kissed his hand. Hugh watched him caracoling down the street, and burnt with indignation. But how much deeper was the glow that reddened in his cheeks when, raising his eyes to the case- ment, he saw that Alice watched the stranger too ! He came again and often, each time arrayed more gaily than before, and still the little casement showed him Mistress Alice. At length one heavy day, she fled from home. It had cost her a hard struggle, for all her old father's gifts were strewn about her chamber as if she had parted from them one by one, and knew that the time must come when these tokens of his love would wring her heart, — yet she was gone. She left a letter commending her poor father to the care of Hugh, and wishing he might be happier than ever he could have been with her, for he deserved the love of a better and a purer heart than she had to bestow. The old man's forgiveness (she said) she had no power to ask, but she prayed God to bless him, — and so ended with a blot upon the paper where her tears had fallen. At first the old man's wrath was kindled, and he carried his wrong to the Queen's throne itself; but there was no redress he learnt at Court, for his daughter had been conveyed abroad. This afterwards appeared to be the truth, as there came from France, after an inter- val of several years, a letter in her hand. It was written in trembling characters, and almost illegible. Little could be made out save that she often thought of home and her old dear pleasant room, — and that she had dreamt her father was dead and had not blessed her, — and that her heart was breaking. The poor old Bowyer lingered on, never suffering Hugh to quit his sight, for he knew now that he had loved his daughter, and that was the only link that bound him to earth. It broke at length and he died, bequeathing his old prentice his trade and all his wealth, and solemnly charging him with his last breath to revenge his child if ever he who '{ <M I ' }< 'i &11 ! } t| II Hi^ 228 Master Humphrey's Clock had worked her misery crossed his path in Hfe again. From the time of Alice's flight, the tilting-ground, the fields, the fencing-school, the summer-evening sports, knew Hugh no more. His spirit was dead within him. He rose to great eminence and repute among the citizens, but was seldom seen to smile, and never mingled in their revelries or rejoicings. Brave, humane, and generous, he was beloved by all. He was pitied too by those who knew his story, and these were so many that when he walked along the streets alone at dusk, even the rude common people doffed their caps and mingled a rough air of sympathy with their respect. One night in May — it was her birthnight, and twenty years since she had left her home — Hugh Graham sat in the room she had hal- lowed in his boyish days. He was now a grey-haired man, though still in the prime of life. Old thoughts had borne him company for many hours, and the chamber had gradually grown quite dark, when he was roused by a low knocking at the outer door. He hastened down, and opening it saw by the light of a lamp which he had seized upon the way, a female figure crouching in the portal. It hurried swiftly past him and glided up the stairs. He looked for pursuers. There were none in sight. No, not one. He was inclined to think it a vision of his own brain, when sud- denly a vague suspicion of the truth flashed upon his mind. He barred the door, and hastened wildly back. Yes, there she was, — there, in the chamber he had quitted, — there in her old innocent happy home, so changed txiat none but he could trace one gleam of what she had been, — there upon her knees, — with her hands clasped in agony and shame before her burning face. "My God, my God!" she cried, "now strike me dead! Though I have brought death and shame and sorrow on this roof, O, let me die at home in mercy !" There was no tear upon her face then, but she trembled and glanced round the chamber. Everything v/as in its old place. Her bed looked as if she had risen from it but that morning. The sight of these fam- iliar objects, marking the dear remembrance in which she had been held, and the blight she had brought upon herself, was more than the woman's better nature that had carried her there could bear. She wept and fell upon the ground. A rumour was spread about, in a few days' time, that the Bowyer's cruel daughter had come home, and that Master Graham had given her lodging in his house. It was rumoured too that he had resigned her fortune, in order that she might bestow it in acts of charity, and that he had vowed to guard her in her solitude, but that they were never to see each other more. These rumours greatly incensed all virtuous wives and daughters in the ward, especially when they appeared to receive corroboration from the circumstance of Master Graham taking up his abode in another tenement hard by. The estimation in which he was held, however, forbade any questioning on the subject; and as the Bowyer's house was close shut up, and nobot' y came forth when t,} ields, the no more, nd repute r mingled IS, he was tory, and 5 alone at ningled a sars since ; had hal- ough still for many en he was mp which lie portal, ooked for ^hen sud- de barred 3re, in the home, so she had ,gony and rhough I let me die d glanced ed looked lese fam- had been ; than the bear. She Bowyer's lad given signed her , and that ere never [ virtuous peared to im taking I which he ;t; and as )rth when Master Humphrey's Clock 229 public shows and festivities were n progress, or to flaunt in the public walks, or to buy new fashions at the mercer's booths, all the well- conducted females agreed among themselves that there could be no woman there. These reports had scarcely died away when the wonder of every good citizen, male and female, was utterly absorbed and swallowed up by a Royal Proclamation, in which her Majesty, strongly censuring the practice of wearing long Spanish rapiers of preposterous length (as being a^ bullying and swaggering custom, tending to bloodshed and public disorder), commanded that on a particular day therein named certain grave citizens should repair to the city gates, and there, in public break all rapiers worn or carried by persons claiming admis- sion, that exceeded, though it were only by a quarter of an inch three standard feet in length. Royal Proclamations usually take their course, let the public wonder never so much. On the appointed day two citizens of high repute took up their stations at each of the gates, attended by a party of the city guard, the main body to enforce the Queen's will, and take custody of all such rebels (if any) as might have the temerity to dis- pute it: and a few to bear the standard measures and instrume its for reducing all unlawful sword-blades to the prescribed dime sions In pursuance of these arrangements. Master Graham and another were posted at Lud Gate, on the hill before St. Paul's. A pretty numerous company were gathered together at this -.pot- ior, besides the officers in attendance to enforce the proclamation' there was a motley crowd of lookers-on of various degrees who raised from time to time such shouts and cries as the circumstances called lorth. A spruce young courtier was the first who approached: he un- sheathed a weapon of burnished steel that shone and glistened in the sun, and handed it with the newest air to the officer, who, finding it exactly three feet long, returned it with a bow. Thereupon the gallant raised his hat and crying "God save the Queen !" passed on amidst the plaudits of the mob. Then came another— a better courtier still— who wore a blade but two feet long, whereat the people laughed, much to the disparagement of his honour's dignity. Then came a third, a sturdy old officer of the army, girded with a rapier at least a foot and a half beyond her Maj esty 's pleasure; at him they raised a great shout and most of the spectators (but especially those who were armourers or cutlers) laughed very heartily at the breakage which would ensue But they were disappointed; for the old campaigner, coolly unbuck^ hng his sword and bidding his servant carry it home again, passed through unarmed, to the great indignacion of all the beholders They relieved themselves in some degree by hooting a tall blustering fellow with a prodigious weapon, who stopped short on coming in sight of the preparations, and after a little consideration turned back again But - .. .....^ no rcxpiex xiuu uccn oroKen, aitnough it was h; h noon and all cavaliers of any quality or appearance were taking their way towards Samt Paul's churchyard. ^ ^4 230 Master Humphrey's Clock During these proceedings, Master Graham had stood apart, strictly confining himself to the duty imposed upon him, and taking little heed of anything beyond. He stepped forward now as a richly-dressed gentleman on foot, followed by a single attendant, was seen advancing up the hill. As this person drew nearer, the crowd stopped their clamour, and bent forward with eager looks. Master Graham standing alone in the gateway, and the stranger coming slowly towards him, they "seemed, as it were, set face to face. The nobleman (for he looked one) had a haughty and disdainful air, which bespoke the slight esti- mation in which he held the citizen. The citizen, on the other hand, preserved the resolute bearing of one who was not to be frowned down or daunted, and who cared very little for any nobility but that of worth and manhood. It was perhaps some consciousness on the part of each, of these feelings in the other, that infused a more stern expression into their regards as they came closer together. "Your rapier, worthy sir!" At the instant that he pronounced these words Graham started, and falling back some paces, laid his hand upon the dagger in his belt. "You are the man whose horse I used to hold before the Bowyer's door? You are that man? Speak!" "Out, you 'prentice hound!" said the other. "You are he! I know you well now!" cried Graham. "Let no man step between us two, or I shall be his murderer." With that he drew his dagger, and rushed in upon him. The stranger had drawn his weapon from the scabbard ready for the scrutiny, before a word was spoken. He made a thrust at his assailant, but the dagger which Graham clutched in his left hand being the dirk in use at that time for parrying such blows, promptly turned the point aside. They closed. The dagger fell ttling on the ground, and Graham, wrestling his adversary's sword from his grasp, plunged it through his heart. As he drew it out it snapped in two, leaving a fragment in the dead man's body. All this passed so swiftly that the bystanders looked on without an effort to interfere; but the man was no sooner down than an uproar broke forth which rent the air. The attendant rushing through the gate proclaimed that his master, a nobleman, had been set upon and slain by a citizen; the word spread quickly from mouth to mouth; Saint Paul's Cathedral, and every book-shop, ordinary, and smoking- house in the churchyard poured out its stream of cavaliers and their followers, who mingling together in a dense tumultuous body, struggled, sword in hand, towards the spot. With equal impetuosity, and stimulating each other by loud cries and shouts, the citizens and common people took up the quarrel on their side and encircling Master Graham a hundred deet^^ forced him from the gate. In vain he waved the broken sword above his head, crying that he would die on London's threshold for their Master Humphrey's Clock 231 sacred homes. They bore him on, and ever keeping him in the midst, so that no man could attack him, fought their way into che city. The clash of swords and roar of voices, the dust and heat and pressure, the trampling under foot of men, the distracted looks and shrieks of women at the windows above as they recognised their relatives or lovers in the crowd, the rapid tolling of alarm-bells, the furious rage and passion of the scene, were fearful. Those who, being on the outskirts of each crowd, could use their weapons with effect, fought desperately, while those behind, maddened with baffled rage, struck at each other over the heads of those before them, and crushed their own fellows. Wherever the broken sword was seen above the people's heads, towards that spot the cavaliers made a new rush. Every one of these charges was marked by sudden gaps in the throng where men were trodden down, but as fast as they were made, the tide swept over them, and still the multitude pressed on again, a confused mass of swords, clubs, staves, broken plumes, fragments of rich cloaks and doublets, and angry bleeding faces, all mixed up together in inextricable disorder. The design of the people was to force Master Graham to take refuge in his dwelling, and to defend it until the authorities could interfere, or they could gain time for parley. But either from ignorance or in the confusion of the moment they stopped at his old house, which was closely shut. Some time was lost in beating the doors open and passing him to the front. About a score of the boldest of the other party threw themselves into the torrent while this was being done, and reaching the door at the same moment with himself cut him off from his defenders. "I will never turn in such a righteous cause, so help me Heaven!" cried Graham, in a voice that at last made itself heard, and con- fronting them as he spoke. "Least of all will I turn upon this thresh- old which owes its desolation to such men as ye. I give no quarter, and I will have none! Strike!" For a moment they stood at bay. At that moment a shot from an unseen hand, apparently fired by some person who had gained access to one of the opposite houses, struck Graham in the brain, and he fell dead. A low wail was heard in the air, — many people in the concourse cried that they had seen a spirit glide across the little casement window of the Bowyer's house A dead silence succeeded. After a short time some of the flushed and heated throng laid dcwn their arms and softly carried the body within doors. Others fell off or slunk away in knots of two or three, others whispered together in groups, and before a numerous guard which then rode up could muster in the street, it was nearly empty. Those who carried Master Graham to the bed up-stairs were shocked to see a woman lying beneath the window with her hands clasped together. After trying to recover her in vain, they laid her near the citizen, who still retained, tightly grasped in his right hand, the first and last sword that was broken that day at Lud Gate. nv 1 1 1] ¥-':.' m 14 V II ' r^l 232 Master Humphrey's Clock The Giant uttered these concluding words with sudden precipita- tion; and on the instant the strange light which had filled the hall faded away. Joe Toddyhigh glanced involuntarily at the eastern window, and saw the first pale gleam of morning. He turned his head again towards the Other window in which the Giants had been seated. It was empty. The cask of wine was gone, and he could dimly make out that the two great figures stood mute and motionless upon their pedestals. . After rubbing his eyes and wondering for full half an hour, durmg which time he observed morning come creeping on apace, he yielded to the drowsiness which overpowered him and fell int freshing slumber. When he awoke it was broad day; the buildxng „ ^pen, and workmen were busily engaged in removing the vestiges of last night's feast. . ^t. • / Stealing gently down the little stairs, and assummg the air of some early lounger who had dropped in from the street, he walked up to the foot of each pedestal in turn, and attentively examined the figure it supported. There could be no doubt about the features of either; he recollected the exact expression they had worn at different passages of their conversation, and recognised in every line and lineament the Giants of the night. Assured that it was no vision, but that he had heard and seen with his own proper senses, he walked forth, determining at all hazards to conceal himself in the Guildhall again that evening. He further resolved to sleep all day, so that he might be very wakeful and vigilant, and above all that he might take notice of the figures at the precise moment of their becoming animated and subsiding into their old state, which he greatly reproached himself for not having done already. CORRESPONDENCE TO MASTER HUMPHREY Sir, — Before you proceed any further in your account of your friends and what you say ard do when you meet together, excuse me if I proffer my claim to be elected to one of the vacant chairs in that old room of yours. Don't reject me without full consideration; for if you do, you will be sorry for it afterwards — you will, upon my 1^^,. I enclose my card, sir, in this letter. I never was ashamed of my name, and I never shall be. I am considered a devilish gentlemanly fellow, and I act up to the character. If you want a reference, ask any of the men of our club. Ask any fellow who goes there to write his letters, what sort of conversation mine is. Ask him if he thinks I have the sort of voice that will suit your deaf friend and make him hear, if he can hear anything at all. Ask the servants what they think of me. There's not a rascal among 'em, sir, but will tremble to S^ ^iSAa/i^m^2a ^ilow. 326* * !:> »ll ; ill I hear my that hou I tell 3 you'll ha that'll ra some fin< of thing, affair of private j upon the that tim consider yourself. It's an know wl: anxiety i cunning have al\\ him so, ■' You n founded paper — j places li] life — dor I am a friends li for gran1 charming company a great himself; periods i six time besides 1 gentlems he is of a Mastei both as i Master Humphrey's Clock 235 hear my name. That reminds me — don't you say too much about that housekeeper of yours; it's a low subject, damned low. I tell you what, sir. If you vote me into one of those empty chairs, you'll have among you a man with a fund of gentlemanly information that'll rather astonish you. I can let you into a fe\/ anecdr tes about some fine women of title, that are quite high life, sir — the tiptop sort of thing. I know the name of every man who has been out on an affair of honour within the last five-and-twenty years; I know the private particulars of every cross and squabble that has taken place upon the turf, at the gaming-table, or elsewhere, during the whole of that time. I have been called the gentlemanly chronicle. You may consider yourself a lucky dog; upon my soul, you may congratulate yourself, though I say so. It's an uncommon good notion that of yours, not letting anybody know where you live. I have tried it, but there has always been an anxiety respecting me, which has found me out. Your deaf friend is a cunning fellow to keep his name so close. I have tried that too, but have always failed. I shall be proud to make his acquaintance — tell him so, with my compliments. You must have been a queer fellow when you were a child, con- founded queer. It's odd, all that about the picture in your first paper — prosy, but told in a devilish gentlemanly sort of way. In places like that I could come in with great effect with a touch of life — don't you feel that? I am anxiously waiting for your next paper to know whether your friends live upon the premises, and at your expense, which I take it for granted is the case. If I am right in this impression, I know a charming fellow (an excellent companion and most delightful company) who will be proud to join you. Some years ago he seconded a great many prize-fighters, and once fought an amateur match himself; since then he has driven several mails, broken at different periods all the lamps on the right-hand side of Oxford-street, and six times carried away every bell-handle in Bloomsbury-square, besides turning off the gas in various thoroughfares. In point of gentlemanliness he is unrivalled, and I should say that next to myself he is of all men the best suited to your purpose. Expecting your reply, * I am, Etc, etc. Master Humphrey informs this gentleman that this application, both as it concerns himself and his friend, is rejected. ■•".,iii I'i i I n I \ li f 'I 236 Master Humphrey's Clock 8- II MASTER HUMPHREY. FROM HIS CLOCK-SIDE IN THE CHIMNEY-CORNER My old companion tells me it is midnight. The fire glows brightly cracklmg with a sharp and cheerful sound, as if it loved to burn The merry cricket on the hearth (my constant visitor), this ruddy blaze my clock, and I, seem to share the world among us. and to be the only thmgs awake. The wind, high and boisterous but now has died away and hoarsely mutters in its sleep. I love all times and seasons each m its turn, and am apt. perhaps, to think the present one the best; but past or coming I always love this peaceful time of night when long-buneJ thoughts, favoured by the gloom and silence steai from their graves, and haunt the scenes of faded happiness and hope The popular faith in ghosts has a remarkable affinity with the whole current of our thoughts at such an hour as this, and seems to be their necessary and natural consequence. For who can wonder that man should feel a vague belief in tales of disembodied spirits wander- ing through those places which they once dearly affected when he himself, scarcely less separated from his old world than they is for ever lingering upon past emotions and bygone times, and hovering the ghost of his former self, about the places and people that warmed his heart of old? It is thus that at this quiet hour I haunt the house where I was born, the rooms I used to tread, the scenes of my infancy my boyhood, and my youth; it is thus that I prowl around my buried treasure (though not of gold or silver), and mourn my loss- it IS thus that I revisit the ashes of extinguished fires, and take my silent stand at old bedsides. If my spirit should ever glide back to this chamber when my body is mingled with the dust, it will but follow the course it often took in the old man's lifetime, and add but one more change to the subjects of its contemplation. In all my idle speculations I am greatly assisted by various legends connected with my venerable house, which are current in the neighbourhood, and are so numerous that there is scarce a cupboard or corner that has not some dismal story ox its own When I first entertained thoughts of becoming its tenant, I was assured that it was haunted froni roof to cellar, and I believe that the bad opinion m which my neighbours once held me. had its rise in my not being torn to pieces, or at least distracted with terror, on the night I took possession; m either of which cases I should doubtless have arrived by a short cut at the very summit of popularity. But traditions and rumours all taken into account, who so ahpf. ^lurZ^^ .'^Ti^ and chimes with my every thought, as my dear deaf friend.? and how often have I cause to bless the day that brought Master Humphrey's Clock 237 us two together I Of all days in the year I rejoice to think that it should have been Christmas Day, with which from childhood we associate somethmg friendly, hearty, and sincere • I had walked out to cheer myself with the happiness of others, and m the httle tokens of festivity and rejoicing, of which the streets and housej present so many upon that day. had lost some hours Now I stopped to look at a merry party hurrying through the snow on foot to their place of meeting, and now turned back to see a whole coachful of children safely deposited at the welcome house At one time, 1 admired how carefully the working man carried the baby m Its gaudy hat and feathers, and how his wife, trudging patiently on behmd. forgot even her care of her gay clothes, in exchanging greetings with the child as it crowed and laughed over the father's shoulder; at another. I pleased myself with some passing scene of gallantry or courtship, and was glad to believe that for a season half the world of poverty was gay. As the day closed in. I still rambled through the streets, feeling a companionship in the bright fires that cast their warm reflection on the windows as I passed, and losing all sense of my own loneliness in imagining the sociality and kind-fellowship that everywhere ^ e- vailed. At length I happened to stop before a Tavern, and. encoun- tering a Bill of Fare in the window, it all at once brought it into my head to wonder what kind of people dined alone in Taverns upon Christmas Day. ^ Solitary men are accustomed, I suppose, unconsciously to look upon solitude as their own peculiar property. I had sat alone in my room on many, many anniversaries of this great holiday, and had never regarded it but as one of universal assemblage and rejoicing 1 had excepted, and with an aching heart, a crowd of prisoners and beggars; but these were not the men for whom the Tavern doors were open. Had they any customers, or was it a mere form?— a form no doubt. ' Trying to feel quite sure of this, I walked away; but before I had gone niany paces. I stopped and looked back. There was a provoking air of business in the lamp above the door which I could not over- come. I began to be afraid there might be many customers— young men. perhaps, struggling with the world, utter strangers in this great place whose friends lived at a long distance off. and whose nfeans were too slender to enable them to make the journey. The supposition gave rise to so many distressing little pictures, that, in preference to carrying them home with me, I determined to encounter the realities So I turned and walked in. I was at once glad and sorry to find that there was only one person in the dinmg-room; glad to know that there wer- not more, and sorry that he should be there by himself. He did not look so old as I but like me he Viras a.Hvnnrp.r1 in lifo oriH ^'^ 1--J-- ' '' •• 1 hough I made more noise in entering and seating myself than was quue necessary, with the view of attracting his attention and saluting I ! .? H- 238 Master Humphrey's Clock 'I ::4 '■■i I'l him in the good old form of that time of year, he did not raise his head, but sat with it resting on his hand, musing over his half- finished meal, I called for something which would give me an excuse for remaining in the room (I had dined early, as my housekeeper was engaged at night to partake of some friend's good cheer), and sat where I could observe without intruding on him. After a time he looked up. He was aware that somebody had entered, but could see very little of me, as I sat in thf^ shade and he in the light. He was sad and thoug'ttful, and I forbore i,o trouble him by speaking. Let me believe it was something better than curiosity which riveted my attention and impelled me strongly towards this gentle- man. I never saw so patient and kind a face. He should have been surrounded by friends, and yet here he sat dejected and alone when all men had their friends about them. As often as he roused himsel from his reverie he would fall into it again, and it was plain tha whatever were the subject of his thoughts, they were of a melan- choly kind, and would not be controlled. He was not used to solitude. I was sure of that; for I know by myself that if he had been, his manner would have been different, and he would have taken some slight interest in the arrival of another. I could not fail to mark that he had no appetite; that he tried to eat in vain; that time after time the plate was pushed away, and he relapsed into his former posture. His mind was wandering among old Christmas days, I thought. Many of them sprung up together, not with a long gap between each, but in unbroken succession like days of the week. It was a great change to find himself for the first time (I quite settled that it was the first) in an empty silent room with no soul to care for. I could not help following him in imagination through crowds of pleasant faces, and then coming back to that dull place with its bough of mistletoe sickening in the gas, and sprigs of holly parched up already by a Simoom of roast and boiled. The very waiter had gone home; and his representative, a poor, lean, hungry man, was keeping Christmas in his jacket. I grew still more interested in my friend. Hiis dinner done, a decanter of wine was placed before him. It remained untouched for a long time, but at length with a quivering hand he filled a glass and raised it to his lips. Some tender wish to which he had been accustomed to give utterance on that day, or some beloved name that he had been ' od to pledge, trembled upon them at the momeiit. He put it down ,ry hastily — took it up once more — again put it down — pressed his hand upon his face — yes — and tears stole down his cheeks, I am certain. Withou pausing to consider whether I did right or wrong, I stepped at oss the room, and sitting down beside him laid my hand srentlv on nis arm. "My friend," I said, "forgive me if I beseech you to take comfort Master Humphrey's Clock 239 and consolation from the lips of an Oid man. I will not preach to you what I have not practised, indeed. Whatever be your grief, be of a good heart — bo of a good heart, pray I" "I see that you speak earnestly," he replied, "and kindly I am very sure, but " I nodded my head to shov/ that I understood what he wc did say; for I had already gathered, from a certain fixed expression in his face, and from the attention with which he watched me while I spoke, that his sense of hearing was destroyed. "There should be a freemasonry between us," said I, pointing from himself to me to explain my meaning; "if not in our gray hairs, at least in our mis- fortunes. You see that I am but a poor crippk ' I never felt so happy under my affliction sine- the trying moment of my first becoming conscious of it, as when j ; took my hand in his with a smile that has lighted my path in life from that day. and we sat down side by side. This was the beginning of my friendship with the deaf gentleman; and when was ever the slight and easy service of a kind word in season repaid by such attachment and devotion as he has shown to me! He produced a little set of tablets and a pencil to facilitate our conversation, on that our first acquaintance; and I well remember how awkward and constrained I was in writing down my share of the dialogue, and how easily he guessed my meaning before I had written half of what I had to say. He told me in a faltering voice that he had not been accustomed to be alone on that day — that it had always been a little festival with him; and seeing that I glanced at his dress in the expectation that he wore mourning, he added hastily that it was not that; if it had been he thought he could have borne it better. From that time to the present we have never touched upon this theme. Upon every return of the same day we have been together; and although we make it our annual custom to drink to each oth-r hand in hand after dinner, and to recall with affectionate garrulity every circumstance of our first meeting, we always avoid this one as if by mutual consent. Meantime we have gone on strengthening in our friendship and regard, and forming an attachment which, I trust and believe, will only be interrupted b/ death, to be renewed in another existence. I scarcely know how we communicate as we Co; but he has long since ceased to be deaf to me. He is frequemly my companion in my walks, and even in crowded streets replies to my slightest look or gesture, as though he could read my thoughts. From the vast number of objects which pass in rapid succession before our eyes, we frequently select the same for some particular notice or remark; and when one of these little coincidences occurs. I cannot describe the pleasure which animates my friend, or the beaming countenance ho vvili preserve for half-an-hour afterwards at least. He is a great thinker from living so much within himself, and. i 1 mi- 240 Master Humphrey's Clock having a lively imagination, has a facility of conceiving and enlarging upon odd ideas, which renders him invaluable to our little body, and greatly astonishes our two friends. His powers in this respect are touch assisted by a large pipe, which he assures us one 3 belonged to ft German Student. Be this as it may, it has undoubtedly a verj' ancient and mysterious appearance, and is of such capacity that it takes three hours and a half to smoke it out. I have reason to believe that my barber, who is the chief authority of a knot of gossips, who congregate every evening at a small tobacconist's hard by, has related anecdotes of this pipe and the grim figures that are carved upon its bowl, at • hich all the smokers in the neighbourhood have stood aghast; and I know that my houseke'jper, while she holds it in high veneration, has a superstitious feeling connected with it which would render her exceedingly unwilling to be left alone in its com- pany after dark. Whatever sorrow my dear friend has known, and whatever grief may linger in some secret corner of his heart, he is now a cheerful, placid, happy creature. Misfortune can never have fallen upon such a man but for some good purpose; and when I see its traces in his gentle nature and his earnest feeling, I am thr less disposed to murmur at such trials as I may have undergone myself. With regard to the pipe, I have a theory of my own; I cannot help thinking that it is in some manner connected with the event that brought us together; for I remember that it was a long time before he even talked about it; that when he did, he grew reserved and melancholy; and that it was a long time yet before ^-^ wrought it forth. I have no curiosity, however, upon thip ubje . * n I know that it promotes his tranquillity and comfort, - eed no other inducement to regard it with my utmost favc r. Such is the deaf gentleman. 1 c^.i call up his figure now, clad in sober gray, and seated in the chimney-corner. At he puffs out the smoke from his favourite pipe, he casts a look on me brimful of cordiality and friendship, and says all manner of kind and genial things in a cheerful smile; then he raises his eyes to my clock, which is just about to strike, and, glancing^ from it to me and back again, seems to divide his heart between us. For myself, it is not too much to say that I would gladly part with one of my poor limbs, could he but hear the old clock's voice. Of our two friends, the first has been all his life one of that easy, wayward, truant class whom the world is accustomed to designate as nobody's enemies but their own. Bred to a profession for which he never qualified himself, and reared in the expectation of a fortune he has never inherited, he has undergone every vicissitude of which such an existence is capable. He and his younger brother, both orphans from their childhood, were educated by a wealthy relative, who taught them to expect an equal division of hir, property; but tfin indfslfint to court, and too honest to flatter, the ^Ider iraduallv pst ground in the affections of a capricious old man, and the younger, •^ I enlarging body, and espect are elonged to lly a verj' ity that it to believe ssips, who las related d upon its lave stood it in high it which n its com- tever grief 1 cheerful, upon such ices in his isposed to ith regard iking that rought us ven talked ;holy; and I have no promotes cement to w, clad in Is out the brimful of md genial )ck, which ack again, too much ;, could he that easy, designate for which I a fortune 3 of which ;her, both y relative, 3erty; but Taduallv 3 younger, SSie ^^ ^ti&ncCi, IV 1 1 .Mil. 1 ^Ki^ 1 ^^H "'^1 .. i 1- f- ' ^^H J 1 H ! , . |-- i I il _-._4l- Master Humphrey's Clock 243 who did not fail to improve his opportunity, now triumphs in the possession of enormous wealth. His triumph is to hoard it in solitary wretchedness, and probably to feel with the expenditure of every shilling a greater pang than the loss of his whole inheritance ever cost his brother. Jack Redburn— he was Jack Redburn at the first little school he went to, where every other child was mastered and surnamed, and he has been Jack Redburn all his life, or he would perhaps have been a richer man by this time — has been an inmate of my house these eight years past. He is my librarian, secretary, steward, and first minister; director of all my affairs, and inspector-general of my household. He is something of a musician, something of an author, something of an actor, something of a painter, very much of a carpenter, and an extraordinary gardener, having had all his life a wonderful aptitude for learning everything that was of no use to him. He is remarkably fond of children, and is the best and kindest nurse in sickness that ever drew the breath of life. He has mixed with every grade of society, and known the utmost distress; but there never was a less selfish, a more tender-hearted, a more enthusi- astic, or a more guileless man; and I dare say, if few have done less good, fewer still have done less harm in the world than he. By what chance Nature forms such whimsical jumbles I don't know; but I do know that she sends them among us very often, and that the king of the whole race is Jack Redburn. I should be puzzled to say how old he is. His health is none of the best, and he wears a quantity of iron-gray hair, which shades his face and gives it rather a worn appearance; but we consider him quite a young fellow notwithstanding; and if a youthful spirit, surviving the roughest contact with the world, confers upon its possessor any title to be considered young, then he is a mere child. The only interrup- tions to his careless cheerfulness are on a wet Sunday, when he is apt to be unusually religious and solemn, and sometimes of an evening, when he has been blowing a very slow tune on the flute. On these last-named occasions he is apt to incline towards the mysterious or the terrible. As a specimen of his powers in this mood, I refer my readers to the extract from the clock-case which follows this paper: he brought it to me not long ago at midnight, and informed me that the main incident had been suggested by a dream of the night before. His apartments are two cheerful rooms looking towards the garden, and one of his great delights is to arrange and rearrange the furniture in these chambers, and put it in every possible variety of position. During the whole time he has been here, I do not think he has slept for two nights running with the head of his bed in the same place; and every time he moves it, is to be the last. My housekeeper was at first well-nigh distracted by these frequent changes; but she has become quite reconciled to them by degrees, and has so fallen in upon the next final alteidtion. Whatever his arrangements are, how- ^! ! ra K ' i> |-i4?i I:! .' 244 Master Humphrey's Clock ever, they are always a pattern of neatness; and every one of the manifo^ 1 articles connected with his manifold occupations is to be found in its own particular place. Until within the last two or three years he was subject to an occasional fit (which usually came upon him in very fine weather), under the influence of which he would dress himself with peculiar care, and, going out under pretence of taking a walk, disappeared for several days together. At length, after the interval between each outbreak of this disorder had gradually grown longer and longer, it wholly disappeared; and now he seldom stirs abroad, except to stroll out a little way on a summer's evening. Whether he yet mistrusts his own constancy in this respect, and is therefore afraid to wear a coat, I know not; but we seldom see him in any other upper garment than an old spectral-looking dressing- gown, with very disproportionate pockets, full of a miscellaneous collection of odd matters, which he picks up wherever he can lav hig hands upon them. Everything that is a favourite with our friend is a favourite with us; and thus it happens that the fourth among us is Mr. Owen Miles, a most worthy gentleman, who had treated Jack with great kindness before my deaf friend and I encountered him by an accident, to which I may refer on some future occasion. Mr. Miles was once a very rich merchant; but receiving a severe shock in the death of his wife, he retired from business, and devoted himself to a quiet, unostentatious life. He is an excellent man, of thoroughly sterling character: not of quick apprehension, and not .vithout some amusing prejudices, which I shall leave to their own development. He holds us all in pro- found veneration; but Jack Redbum he esteems as a kind of pleasant wonder, that he may venture to approach familiarly. He believes, not only that no man ever lived who could do so many things as Jack, but that no man ever lived who could do anything so well; and he never calls my attention to any of his ingenious proceedings,' but he whispers in my ear, nudging me at the same time with his elbow: "If he had only made it his trade, sir— if he had only made it his trade!" ' They are inseparable companions; one would almost suppose that, although Mr. Miles never by any chance does anything in the way of assistance. Jack could do nothing without him. Whether he is reading, writing, painting, r irpentering, gardening, flute-playing, or what not, there is Mr. Miles beside him, buttoned up to the chin in his blue coat, and looking on with a face of incredulous delight, as though he could not credit the testimony of his own senses, and had a misgiving that no man could be so clever but in a dream. These are my friends; I have now introduced myself and them. Master Humphrey's Clock 245 THE CLOCK-CASE / A CONFESSION FOUND IN A PRISON IN THE TIME OF CHARLES THE SECOND I HELD a lieutenant's commission in his Majesty's army and served abroad in the campaigns of 1677 and 1678. The treaty of Nime^en being concluded. I returned home, and retiring from theTervke withdrew to a small estate lying a few miles east of Sndon wS I had recently acquired in right of my wife ^"uon. wnicn This is the last night I have to live, and I will set down the naked truth without disguise. I was never a brave man and h^H .?« been from my childhood of a secret, su^n. disCtful nat^r^'l speak of myself as if I had passed from the world; for while I write Tdo^l^^"" "" ^'^''"^' ^^^ °^^ """^^ ^^ ^^**- i- thrblack-book Soon after my return to England, my only brother was seized with mortal illness. This ckcumstance gave me slight or no pain for since we had been men. we had associated but vfry Httfe togSher He was open-hearted and generous, handomer than I more ac comphshed and generally beloved. Those who sought my a^quai^t ance abroad or at home, because they were friends oThisSom attached themselves to me long, and would usually say in our S conversation, that they were surprised to find ^two^rothers so unlike m their manners and appearance. It was my hab?t to lead them on to this avowal; for I knew what comparisons thev must We had married two sisters. This additional tie between us as it may appear to some, only estranged us the more. His wife iTe'w me well. I never struggled with any secret jealousy or gall when shJx^s present but that woman knew it as well as I did. I never raised mv eyes at such times but I found hers fixed upon me- 1 never bent f h?r^ on the ground or looked another way but'i felTthat :S over o^^^^^^^ me always It was an mexpressible relief to me when we aurrSled and a greater relief still when I heard abroad that she wS^deadii whTtV° r °^^r -^^ ^°^^ ^*^^°^^ ^^d t^^rible foreshadowfng o what has happened since must have hung over us then. I warSfaki of her; she haunted me; her fixed and stiady look comes Mck uoon rTn COM. '""^ *^' "'"^^ "' " ^^^^ ^''^^' ^^ -"ki mf bC She died shortly after giving birth to a child— a boy. When mv brother knew that all hope of his own recoverv w.« n/^V ^. ^iS my wiie to his bedside, and ronfided this orphan;a"ci7ld of W years old. to her protection. He bequeathed to him aU the property " ) wl 246 Master Humphrey's Clock he had. and willed that, in case of his child's death, it should pass to my wife, as the only acknowledgment he could make her for her care and love. He exchanged a few brotherly words with me deplor- ing our long separation; and being exhausted, fell into a slumber from which he never awoke. We had no children; and as there had been a strong affection between the sisters, and my wife had almost supplied the place of a mother to this boy. she loved him as if he had been her own The child was ardently attached to her; but he was his mother's image in face and spirit, and always mistrusted me. I can scarcely fix the date when the feeling first canle upon me- but I soon began to be uneasy when this child was by. I never roused myself from some moody train of thought but I marked him looking at me; not with mere childish wonder, but with something of the purpose and meaning that I had so often noted in his mother It was no effort of my fancy, founded on close resemblance of feature and expression. I never could look the boy down. He feared me bvt seemed by seme instinct to despise me while he did so- and 'even when he drew back beneath my gaze—as he would when we were alone, to get nearer to the door— he would keep his bright eyes upon Perhaps I hide the truth from myself, but I do not think that when this began. I meditated to do him any wrong. I may have thought how serviceable his inheritance would be to us and mav have wished him dead; but I believe I had no thought of compassing his death. Neither did the idea come upon me at once, but by verv slow degrees, presenting itself at first in dim shapes at a very great distance, as men may think of an earthquake or the last day- then drawing nearer and nearer, and losing something of its horror and improbability; then coming to be part and parcel— nay nearly the whole sum and substance— of my daily thoughts, and resolving from thed "^A^^^^^"- °^ ""^^"^^ ^"^^ ^^^^^y- """^ °^ ^oing or abstaining While this was going on witiiin me. I never could bear that the child should see me looking at him, and yet I was under a fascination which made it a kmd of business with me to contemplate his slight and fragile figure and think how easily it might be done. Sometimes 1 would steal up-stairs and watch him as he slept; but usually I hovered m the garden near the window of the room in which he learnt his little tasks; and there, as he sat upon a low seat beside mv wife, I would peer at him for hours together from behind a tree- ^l^^^^^^J.^^^^ t^e guilty wretch I was, at every rustling of a leaf and still gliding back to look and start again. Hard by our cottage, but quite out of sight, and (if there were any wind astir) of hearing too, was a deep sheet of water. I spent days in shapmg with my pocket-knife a rough model of a boat, which I finiSi^evi at ^ast and diOpped in the child's way. Then 1 withdrew to a secret place, which he must pass if he stole away alone to swim Master Humphrey's Clock 247 this bauble, and lurked there for his coming. He came neither that day nor the next, though I waited from noon till nightfall I was sure that I had him in my net. for I had heard him prattling of the ^l' ?"/,i^^^w t^at in his infant pleasure he kept it by his side in ^u^.^J^^'' weariness or fatigue, but waited patiently, and on the thu-d day he passed me, running joyously along, with his silken hair streaming m the wind, and he singing— God have mercy upon me I — smging a merry ballad.— who could hardly lisp the words I stole down after him. creeping under certain shrubs which ctow in that place, and none but devils know with what terror I a strong full-grown man tracked the footsteps of that baby as he approached the water s brink. I was close upon him. had sunk upon my knee and raised my hand to thrust him in, when he saw my shadow in the stream and turned him round. His mother's ghost was looking from his eyes. The sun burst forth from behind a cloud; it shone in the bright sky. the glistening earth the clear water, the sparkling drops of rain upon the leave There were eyes in everything. The whole great universe of light as there to see the murder done. I know not what he said; he came of bold and manly blood, and. child as he was. he did not crouch or fawn upon me. I heard him cry that he would try to love me —net that he did.— and then I saw him running back towards the house The next I saw was my own sword naked in my hand, and he Ivine at my feet stark dead.— dabbled here and there with blood, but other- wise no different from what I had seen him in his sleep— in the same attitude too. with his cheek resting upon his little hand I took him m my arms and laid him— very gently now that he was dead—m a thicket. My wife was from home that day. and would not return until the next. Our bedroom window, the only sleeping- room on that side of the house, was but a few feet from the ground and I resolved to descend from it at night and bury him in the garden. I had no thought that I had failed in my design, no thought that the water would be dragged and nothing found, tliat the monev must now lie waste, since I must encourage the idea that the child was lost or stolen. AH my thoughts were bound up and knotted together m the one absorbing necessity of hiding what I had done How I felt when they came to tell me that the child was missing when I ordered scouts in all directions, when I gasped and trembled at every one s approach, no tongue can tell or mind of man conceive Jh^H w? f^^ 1"^^^' ^^'^^ ^ P^^*^^ *^^ boughs and looked into !^Lf ? *hyket. there was a glow-worm shining like the visible ^irit of God upon the murdered child. I glanced down into his grave when I had placed him there, and still it gleamed upon his SL? .\.^f ^^! J^^"*^ ^''^^'''^ ^P *° ^^^^en ^ supplication to the stars that watched me at my work. I had to meet my wife, and break the news, and swe her hnn^ that me cniia would soon be found. All this I did.-with some appearance 1 suppose, of being sincere, for I was the object of no suspicion This 248 Master Humphrey's Clock done, I sat at the bedroom window all day long, and watched the spot where the dreadful secret lay. It was in a piece of ground which had been dug up to be newly turfed, and which I had chosen on that account, as the traces of my spade were less likely to attract attention. The men who laid down the grass must have thought me mad. I called to them continually to expedite their work, ran out and worked beside them, trod down the earth with my feet, and hurried them with frantic eagerness. They had finished then: task before night, and then I thought myself comparatively safe. I slept, — not as men do who awake refreshed and cheerful, but I did sleep, passing from vague and shadowy dreams of being hunted down, to visions of the plot of grass, through which now a hand, and now a foot, and now the head itself was starting out. At this point I always woke and stole to the window, to make sure that it was not really so. That done, I crept to bed again; and thus I spent the night in fits and starts, getting up and lying down full twenty times, and dreaming the same dream over and over again, — which was far worse than lying awake, for every dream had a whole night's suffering of its own. Once I thought the child was alive, and that I had never tried to kill him. To wake from that dream was the most dreadful agony of all. The next day I sat at the window again, never once taking my eyes from the place, which, although it was covered by the grass, was as plain to me — its shape, its size, its depth, its jagged sides, and all — as if it had u^en open to the light of day. When a servant walked across it, I felt as if he must sink in; when he had passed, I looked to see that his feet had not worn the edges. If a bird lighted there, I was in terror lest by some tremendous interposition it should be instrumental in the discovery; if a breath of air sighed across it, to me it whispered murder. There was not a sight or a sound — how ordinary, mean, or unimportant soever — but was fraught with fear. And in this state of ceaseless watching I spent three days. On the fourth there came to the gate one who had served with me abroad, accompanied by a brother officer of his whom I had never seen. I felt that I could not bear to be' out of sight of the place. It was a summer evening, and I bade my people take a table and a flask of wine into the garden. Then I sat down with my chair upon the grave, and being assured that nobody could disturb it now without my knowledge, tried to drink and talk. They hoped that my wife was well, — that she was not obliged to keep her chamber, — that they had not frightened her away. What could I do but tell them with a faltering tongue about the child? The officer whom I did not know was a down-looking man, and kept his eyes upon the ground while I was speaking. Even that terrified me. I could not divest myself of the idea that he saw something there \x7Viir>li f>aiioorl V«im +^ ot-iot-vrkf.* •♦■l>rv *■■»•■.■. i-V^ T ^r,^~^A U^~ 1 2_Ji l£ I--. supposed that— and stopped. "That the child has been murdered?" Master Humphrey's Clock 249 said he, looking mildly at me: "O no! what could a man gain by murdenng a poor child?" / could have told him what a man gained by such a deed, no one better: but I held my peace and shivered as with an ague. Mistaking my emotion, they were endeavouring to cheer me with the hope that the boy would certainly be found,— great cheer that was for me !— when we heard a low deep howl, and presently there sprung over the wall two great dogs, who, bounding into the garden, repeated the baying sound we had heard before. "Bloodhounds!" cried my visitors. What need to tell me that ! I had never seen one of that kind in all my life, but I knew what they were and for what purpose they had come. I grasped the elbows of my chair, and neither spoke nor moved. "They are of the genuine breed," said the man whom I had known abroad, "and being out for exercise have no doubt escaped from their keeper." Both he and his friend turned to look at the dogs, who w h their noses to the ground moved restlessly about, running to and fro, and up and down, and across, and round in circles, careering about like wild things, and all this time taking no notice of us, but ever and again repeating the yell we had heard already, then dropping their noses to the ground again and tracking earnestly here and there. They now began to snufE the earth more eagerly than they had done yet, and although they were still very restless, no longer beat about in such wide circuits, but kept near to one spot, and constantly diminished the distance between themselves and me. At last they came up close to the great chair on which I sat, and raising their frightful howl once more, tried to tear away the wooden rails that kept them from the ground beneath. I saw how I looked, in the faces of the two who were with me. "They scent some prey," said they, both together. "They scent no prey!" cried I. ^^ "In Heaven's name, move!" said the one I knew, very earnestly, ' or you will be torn to pieces." "Let them tear me from limb to limb, I'll never leave this place!" cried I. "Are dogs to hurry men to shameful deaths ! Hew them down, cut them in pieces." "There is some foul mystery here!" said the officer whom I did not know, drawing his sword. "In King Charles's name, assist me to secure this man." They both set upon me and forced me away, though I fought and bit and caught at them like a madman. After a struggle, they got me quietly between them; and then, my God ! I saw the angry dogs tearing at the earth and throwing it up into the air like water What more have I to tell? That I fell upon my knees, and with chattering teeth confessed the truth, and prayed Lo be forgiven. That 1 had since denied, and now confess to it again. That I have been tried for the crime, found guilty, and sentenced. That I have I i Hi M|il| il 250 Master Humphrey's Clock not the courage to anticipate my doom, or to bear up manfully agamst it. That I have no compassion, no consolation, no hope, no friend. That my wife has happily lost for the time those faculties which would enable her to know my misery or hers. That I am alone m this stone dungeon with my evil spirit, and that I die to-morrow. [Old Curiosity Shop begins here.] ill CORRESPONDENCE Master Humphrey has been favoured with the following letter written on strongly-scented paper, and sealed in light-blue wax with the representation of two very plump doves interchanging beaks. It does not commence with any of the usual forms of address, but begins as is here set forth. Bath, Wednesday night. Heavens! into what an indiscretion do I sufiEer myself to be betrayed I To address these faltering lines to a total stranger, and that stranger one o^ a conflicting sex!— and yet I am precipitated into the abyss, and have no power of self-snatchation (forgive me if I com that phrase) from the yawning gulf before me. Yes, I am writing to a man; but let me not think of that, for madness is in the thought. You will understand my feelings? O yes, I am sure you will; and you will respect them too. and not despise them, — will you? Let me be calm. That portrait,— smiling as once he smiled on me; that cane,— dangling as I have seen it dangle from his hand I know not how oft; those legs that have glided through my nightly dreams and never stopped to speak; the perfectly gentlemanly, though false original, — can I be mistaken? O no, no. Let me be calmer yet; I would be calm as coffins. You have published a letter from one whose likeness is engraved, but whose name (and wherefore?) is suppressed. Shall / breathe that name! Is it— but why ask when my heart tells riie too truly that it is ! I would not upbraid him with his treachery; I would not remind him of those times when he plighted the most eloquent of vows, and procured from me a small pecuniary accommodation; and yet I would see him— see him did I say— Aim— alas ! such is woman's nature. For as the poet beautifully says— but you will akeady have anticipated the sentiment. Is it not sweet? O yes! It was in this city (hallowed by the recollection) that I met him first; and assuredly if mortal happiness be recorded anywhere, then those rubbers with their three-and-sixpenny points are scored on tablets of celestial brass. He always held an honour — generally two. On that eventful night we stood at eight. He raised his eyes ^luminous in their seductive sweetness) to my agitated face. "Can you?" said Master Humphrey's Clock every lineament of his exoressiw' rt^Z ^ ^!i*"' "Sam; and "r«jst me?" I murmu^/X."':^,, totT"" "^^"^ *'"' ""''» the S:^1-„ThXu7XwttiedTd\^ "''"*"• ^ ^^"^ " «'» little did they Ruess the deJ^ m,l ^ **'' '"*P*'* *-^^ *'•""' ' How He called nex^^ Si, g'on hS Ss Tdo n^?""^ "l*""* '"1"'^' actually came in that Sosition to tt!: L S* "T *° ^^^ *»* he down upon those Mnts^'rec^Vth^^^ ^.^T' '"'* *''''* ^e went some ve^s in his w whfrh h- *^?,'«"'^t had retired. He brought since found were MiK Js; Lwi::'a ^mI"^"-} ^",? ^ll'-^" ' l^'^^ also a pistol and a sword-stlck^e drew ttl fif^"^*^ laudanum; former, and clicked the tri^..l^ „< ♦•, T , '****'^' ""corked the he said, to coCer or to Ife He dw''„'^.''H- *'?;""'• «" ^^^ '=°™. an avowal of n?y love and Lnfffh. •.'*!*• "* "^^^^ '■■°™ me previous to parlJlXX'sJJh? rep'Tst''"'"' °"* "' " """"^ -"""- forgive him both ^S'LTth^'S^'r^^^JedSTarhl S"" '5? pay next week I Could I snnm i,i«. a: ^"cre that he promised to inWence,.andwrth^'rarmorallTec?rw^^^^^^^^^ enchanter still weave hi<! qt^^iio o^^ ""jecti would the blandishing all and turn away In coS I da'e not 'tr' f ""^^ ' V"^^* *^^^ the thought. ^oianessi l dare not trust my weakness with hisl'odetf iif^^^^e'lco^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^1^--' ^- occupations. You are a humkneTn^Sthm?^^ .T' "^f" ^'^ ^""^^^^ *^«"ghts -all; but espedr^y Keet^^^^^ ^" ^^^ know is departing the bellman rinlf ^"^^^er of his lodgings. The post of love and^ho^ to '"^g^.-pray Heaven it be not the knell Belinda. Adtess^l:? tte'kTofficrxh'e *h^' P*° """^ ^ ^'^'^'^ "-". delay, is ringing Sfu*iyin'^S:e^asSg:: ""'^"^ '""P^"^"* "^^ mu"„ot «re^t*?t'tS 'tS *netV''' ^"■»5»-i^ «<>»«. and that you you don't ge?k ^* P°'*' '° '^°"'* be surprised when (af::^^sp"ore&^Thra°dy:2oftetft,''*"^^ *" *"™* "'^ he publish^ her letter as ^ p1f^r^iL'a!r;Sl:rth' a^X^^* - 1 252 Master Humphrey's Clock ' s III MASTER HUMPHREY'S VISITOR When I am in a thoughtful mood, I often succeed in diverting the current of some mournful reflections, by conjuring up a number of fanciful associations with the objects that surround me, and dwelling upon the scenes and characters they suggest. I have been led by this habit tc assign to every room in my house and every old staring portrait on its walls a separate interest of its own. Thus, I am persuaded that a stately dame, terrible to behold in her rigid modesty, who hangs above the chimney-piece of my bedroom, is che former lady of the mansion. In the courtyard below is a stone face of surpassing ugliness, which I have somehow — in a kind of jealousy, I am afraid — associated with her husband. Above my study is a little room with ivy peeping through the lattice, from which I bring their daughter, a lovely girl of eighteen or nineteen years of age, and dutiful in all respects save one, that one being her devoted attachment to a young gentleman on the stairs, whose grandmother (degraded to a disused laundry in the garden) piques herself upon an old family quarrel, and is the implac- able enemy of their love. With such materials as these I work out many a little drama, whose chief merit is, that I can bring it to a happy end at will. I have so many of them on hand, that if on my return home one of these evenings I were to find some bluff old wight of two centuries ago comfortably seated in my easy chair, and a lovelorn damsel vainly appealing to his heart, and leaning her white arm upon my clock itself, I verily believe I should only express my surprise that they had kept me waiting so long, and never honoured me with a call before. I was in such a mood as this, sitting in my garden yesterday morning under the shade of a favourite tree, revelling in all the bloom and brightness about me, and feeling every sense of hope and enjoyment quickened by this most beautiful season of Spring, when my meditations were interrupted by the unexpected appearance of my barber at the end of the walk, who I immediately saw was coming towards me with a hasty step that betokened something remarkable. My barber is at all times a very brisk, bustling, active little man,— for he is, as it were, chubby all over, without being stout or unwieldy, — but yesterday his alacrity was so v^^y uncommon that it quite took me by surprise. For could I fail to observe when he came up to me that his gray eyes were twinkling in a most extraordinary manner, that his little red nose was in an unusual glow, that every line in his round bright face was twisted and curved into an expres- ' it* ^i ■> i ii ii i- .t me. Master Humphrey'-. Clock looked over his shoulder for that nurnnQA t^^ia ■ *^^^^® "And who is it?" said I. :WelII" said I. -bid theSemTclmete' '" *^ ''"*^"^^- smiling ^vith uls^tk^l^to^odXSrTKe wr^r^' ""<* be s^d': m^, sirdt:;:i''*^nr„otitir *° ^^<=^'- >>»• -p-y insist upon it, really." withX^ewolVpXfcrSvJrr I 256 Master Humphrey's Clock had found their way into print. Mr. Pickwick shook his head, and for a moment looked very indignant, but smihng again directly, added that no doubt I was acquainted with Cervantes's introduction to the second part of Don Quixote, and that it fully expressed his senti- ments on the subject. "But now," said Mr. Pickwick, "don't you wonder how I found you out?" "I shall never wonder, and, with your good leave, never know," said I, smiling in my turn. "It is enough for me that you give me this gratification. I have not the least desire that you should tell me by what means I have obtained it." "You are very kind," returned Mr. Pickwick, shaking me by the hand again; "you are so exactly what I expected! But for what particular purpose do you think I have sought you, my dear sir? Now what do you think I have come for?" Mr. Pickwick put this question as though he were persuaded that it was morally impossible that I could by any means divine the deep purpose of his visit, and that it must be hidden from all human ken. Therefore, although I was rejoiced to think that I had anticipated his drift, I feigned to be quite ignorant of it, and after a brief con- sideration shook my head despairingly. "What should you say," said Mr. Pickwick, laying the forefinger of his left hand upon my coat-sleeve, and looking at me with his head thrown back, and a little on one side, — "what should you say if I confessed that after reading your account of yourself and your little society, I had come here, a humble candidate for one of those empty chairs?" "I should say," I returned, "that I know of only one circumstance which could still further endear that little society to me, and that would be the associating with it my old friend, — for you must let me call you so, — my old friend, Mr. Pickwick." As I made him this answer every feature of Mr. Pickwick's face fused itself into one all-pervading expression of delight. After shaking me heartily by both hands at once, he patted me gently on the back, and then — I wAl understood why — coloured up to the eyes, and hoped with great earnestness of manner that he had not hurt me. If he had, I would have been content that he should have repeated the ofEence a hundred times rather than suppose so; but as he had not, I had no difficulty in changing the subject by making an inquiry which had been upon my lips twenty times already. "You have not told me," said I, "anything about Sam Weller." "O! Sam," replied Mr. Pickwick, "is the same as ever. The same true, faithful fellow that he ever was. What should I tell you about Sam, my dear sir, except that he is more indispensable to my happi- ness and comfort every day of my life?" "And Mr. Weller senior?" said I. "Old Mr. Weller," returned Mr. Pickwick, "is in no respect more altered than Sam, unless it be that he is a little more opinionated than he spends a so consti permissic (supposir chairs), I I very free adm settled, > with as li from our that Mr. ] charactei consent c him thai sanction, to introdi hand) wil To this means all formally i think of c him was meeting, ately on 1 Mr. Pic small roll many qu( Redburn, favour I c him on thi acquainta "And t Dear me ! I thoug! towards i1 and as ms sider it in at the top now surve and now i of the bac dial to see on one sit intervals ( placent gr was not c article in t Master Humphrey's Clock 257 than he was formerly, and perhaps at times more talkative. He spends a good deal of his time now in our neighbourhood, and has so constituted himself a part of my bodyguard, that when I ask permission for Sam to have a seat in your kitchen on clock nights (supposing your three friends think me worthy to fill one of the chairs), I am afraid I must often include Mr. Weller Loo." I very readily pledged myself to give both Sam and his father a free admission to my house at all hours and seasons, and this point settled, we fell into a lengthy conversation which was carried on with as little reserve on both sides as if we had been intimate friends from our youth, and which conveyed to me the comfortable assurance that Mr. Pickwick's buoyancy of spirit, and indeed all his old cheerful characteristics, were wholly unimpaired. As he had spoken of the consent of my friends as being yet in abeyance, I repeatedly assured him that his proposal was certain to receive their most joyful sanction, and several times entreated that he would give me leave to introduce him to Jack Redbum and Mr. Miles (who were near at hand) without further ceremony. To this proposal, however, Mr. Pickwick's delicacy would by no means allow him to accede, for he urged that his eligibility must be formally discussed, and that, until this had been done, he could not think of obtruding himself further. The utmost I could obtain from him was a promise that he would attend upon our next night of meeting, that I might have the pleasure of presenting h* • immedi- ately on his election. Mr. Pickwick, having with many blushes placed in my hands a small roll of paper, which he termed his "qualification," put a great many questions to me touching my friends, and particularly lack Redburn, whom he repeatedly termed "a fine fellow," and in whose favour I could see he was strongly predisposed. When I had satisfied him on these points, I took him up into my room, that he might make acquaintance with the old chamber which is our place of meeting "And this," said Mr. Pickwick, stopping short, "is the clock! Dear me! And this is really the old clock!" I thought he would never have come away from it. After advancing towards it softly, and laying Ms hand upon it with as much respect and as many smiling looks as if it were alive, he set himself to con- sider it in every possible direction, now mounting on a chair to look at the top, now going down upon his knees to examine the bottom, now surveying the sides r Hh his spectacles almost touching the casei and now trying to peep oetween it and tb' wall to get a slight view of the back. Then he would retire a pace or two and look up at the dial to see it go, and then draw near again and stand with his head on one side to hear it tick: never failing to glance towards me at intervals of a few seconds each, and nod his head with such com- placent gratification as T am nnifp nnahlf> fr» Hcoot^So Wic. ^^.^;-„x: was not confined to the clock either, but extended itself to every article in the room; and really, when he had gone through them every 327 I / ; r. 5-' ■ ; 258 Master Humphrey's Clock one, and at last sat himself down in all the six chairs, one after another, to try how they felt, I never saw such a picture of good- humour and happiness as he presented, from the top of his shining head down to the very last button of his gaiters. I should have been well pleased, and should have had the utmost enjoyment of his company, if he had remained with me all day, but my favourite, striking the hour, reminded him that he must take his leave. I could not forbear telling him once more how glad he had made me, and we shook hands all the way down-stairs. We had no sooner arrived in the Hall than my housekeeper, gliding out of her little room (she had changed her gown and cap, I observed), greeted Mr. Pickwick with her best smile and courtesy; and the barber, feigning to be accidentally passing on his way out, made him a vast number of bows. When the housekeeper courtesied, Mr. Pick- wick bowed with the utmost politeness, and when he bowed, the housekeeper courtesied again; between the housekeeper and the barber, I should say that Mr. Pickwick faced about and bowed with undiminished affability fifty times at least. I saw him to the door; an omnibus was at the moment passing the corner of the lane, which Mr. Pickwick hailed and ran after with extracdinary nimbleness. When he had got about half-way, he turned his head, and seeing that 1 was still looking after him, and that I waved my hand, stopped, evidently irresolute whether to come back and shake hands again, or to go on. The man behind the omnibus shouted, and Mr. Pickwick ran a little way towards him: then he looked round at me, and ran a little way back again. Then there was another shout, and he turned round once more and ran the other way. After several of these vibrations, the man settled the question by taking Mr. Pickwick by the arm and putting him into the carriage; but his last action was to let down the window and wave his hat to me as it drove off. I lost no time in opening the parcel he had left with me. The following were its contents : — MR. Pickwick's tale A good many years have passed away since old John Podgers lived in the town of Windsor, where he was born, and where, in course of time, he came to be comfortably and snugly buried. You may be sure that in the time of King James the First, Windsor was a very quaint queer old town, and you may take it upon my authority that John Podgers was a very quaint queer old fellow; consequently he and Windsor fitted each other to a nicety, and seldom parted company even for half a day. John Podgers was broad, sturdy, Dutch-built, short, and a very hard eater, as men of his figure often are. Being a hard sleeper like- wise, he divided his time pretty equally between these two recrea- tions, always falling asleep when he had done eating, and always i taking ar which me his life. I tered up never fail many pe( seen to 1 heard, h} sight, an( was upon with the man of si it might solid pari This imp shaking motion t( who, beii set it afii deal of gi men. Being a great a; and no ii had no o will read appearan truth is t uneasy ii appreher You ki old womi through 1 men; stic it, and c; the great much dis home, kr the scrap played a many we that ven] even the have had Gracious most Grs whereof s graciousr Master Humphrey's Clock 259 Dne after of good- s shining e utmost day, but lust take id he had r, gliding bserved), and the nade him Mr. Pick- wed, the and the wed with ssing the fter with -way, he him, and lether to ;hind the irds him: lin. Then and ran jttled the him into dow and me. The Podgers vhere, in ■ied. You idsor was luthority iequently [n parted id a very sper hke- o recrea- d always i taking another turn at the trencher when he had done sleeping, by which means be grew more corpulent and more drowsy every day of his life. Indeed it used to be currently reported that when he saun- tered up and down the sunny side of the street before dinner (as he never failed to do in fair weather), he enjoyed his soundest nap; but many people held this to be a fiction, as he had several times been seen to look after fat oxen on market-days, and had even been heard, by persons of good credit and reputation, to chuckle at the sight, and say to himself with great glee, "Live beef, live beef!" It was upon this evidence that the wisest people in Windsor (beginning with the local authorities, of course) held that John Podgers was a man of strong, sound sense, not what is called smart, perhaps, and it might be of a rather lazy and apoplectic turn, but still a man of solid parts, and one who meant much more than he cared to show. This impression was confirmed by a very dignified way he had of shaking his head and imparting, at the same time, a pendulous motion to his double chin; in short, he passed for one of those people who, being plunged into the Thames, would make no vain efforts to set it afire, but would straightway flop down to the bottom with a deal of gravity, and be highly respected in consequence by all good men. Being well to do in the world, and a peaceful widower, — having a great appetite, which, as he could afford to gratify it, was a luxury and no inconvenience, and a power of going to sleep, which, as he had no occasion to keep awake, was a most enviable faculty, — you will readily suppose that John Podgers was a happy man. But appearances are often deceptive when they least seem so, and the truth is that, notwithstanding his extreme sleekness, he was rendered uneasy in his mind and exceedingly uncomfortable by a constant apprehension that beset him night and day. You know very well that in those times there flourished divers evil old women who, under the name of Witches, spread great disorder through the land, and inflicted various dismal tortures upon Christian men; sticking pins and needles into them when they least expected it, and causing them to walk in the air with their feet upwards, to the great terror of their wives and families, who were naturally very much disconcerted when the master of the house unexpectedly came home, knocking at the door with his heels and combing his hair on the scraper. These were their commonest pranks, but they every day played a hundred others, of which none were less objectionable, and many were much more so, being improper besides; the result was that vengeance was denounced against all old women, with whom even the king himself had no sympathy (as he certainly ought to have had), for with his own most Gracious hand he penned a most Gracious consignment of them to everlasting wrath, and devised most Gracious means for their confusion and slaus'h^'er in virtue whereof scarcely a day passed but one witch at the least was most graciously hanged, drowned, or roasted in some part of his dominions. ii'. ill ^i ! i ,u 1 ! I 1 26o Master Humphrey's Clock still the press teemed with strange and terrible news from the North or the South, or the East or the West, relative to witches and their unhappy victims in some corner of the country, and the Public's hair stood on end to that degree that it lifted its hat off its head, and made its face pale with terror. You may believe that the little town of Windsor did not escape the general contagion. The inhabitants boiled a witch on the king's birthday and sent a bottle of the broth to court, with a dutiful address expressive of their loyalty. The king, being rather frightened by the present, piously bestowed it upon the Archbishop of Canter- bury, and returned an answer to the address, wherein he p -we them golden rules for discovering witches, and laid great stress upon cer- tain protecting charms, and especially hors* shoes. Immediately the towns-people went to work nailing up horseshoes over every door, and so many anxious parents apprentice ' their children to farriers to keep them out of harm's way, that it became quite a genteel trade, and flounshed exceedingly. In the midst of all this bustle John Podgers ate and slept as usual, but shook his head a great deal oftener than w. his custom, and was observed to look at the oxen less, and at the old women more. He had a little shelf pilt up in his sitting-room, whereon was displayed, in a row which grew longer every week, all the witchcraft literature of the time; he grew learned in charms and exorcisms, hinted at certain questionable females on broomstick whom he had seen from his chamber window, riding in the air at night, and was in constant terror of being bewitched. At length, from perpetually dwelling upon this one idea, which, being alone in his head, had all its own way, the fear of witches became the single passion of his life. He, who up to that time had never known what it was to dream, began to have visions of witches whenever he fell asleep; waking, they were inces- santly present to his imagination likewise; and, sleeping or waking, he had not a moment's peace. He began to set witch-traps in the highway, and was often seen lying in wait round the corner for hours together, to watch their effect. These engines were of simple con- struction, usually consisting of two straws disposed in the form of a cross, or a piece of a Bible cover with a pinch of salt upon it; but they were infallible, and if an old woman chanced to stumble over them (as not unfrequently happened, the chosen spot being a broken and stony place), John started from a doze, pounced out upon her, and hung round her neck till assistance arrived, when she was immedi- ately carried away and drowned. By dint of constantly inveigling old ladies and disposing of them in this summary manner, he acquired the reputation of a great public character; and as he received no harm in these pursuits beyond a scratched face or so, he came, in the course of time, to be considered witch-proof. There was but one person who entertained the least doubt of John Podgers's gifts, and that person was his own nephew, a wild, roving young fellow of twenty who had been brought up in his uncle's house he North and their Public's lead, and ot escape he king's a dutiful rightened f Canter- ^ve them ipon cer- ately the ery door, farriers 1 genteel as usual, , and was nore. He isplayed, iterature linted at een from constant ing upon way, the ho up to to have ;re inces- waking, 3S in the for hours iple con- brm of a but they rer them )ken and her, and immedi- gling old acquired no harm le course of John I, roving s's house Master Humphrey's Clock 261 and lived there still, — that is to say, when he was at home, which was not as often as it might have been. As he was an apt scholar, it was he who read aloud every fresh piece of strange and terrible intelligence that John Podgers bought; and this he always did of an evening in the little porch in front of the house, round which the neighbours would flock in crowds to hear the direful news, — for people like to be frightened, and when they can be frightened for nothing and at another man's expense, they like it all the better. One fine midsummer evening, a group of persons were gathered in this place, listening intently to Will Marks (that was the nephew's name), as with his cap very much on one side, his arm coiled slyly round the waist of a pretty girl who sat beside him, and his face screwed into a comical expression intended t present extreme gravity, he read — with Heaven knows how man^/ embellishments of his own — a dismal account of a gentleman down in Northampton- shire under the influence of witchcraft and taken forcible possession of by the Devil, who was playing his very self with him. John Podgers, in a high sugar-loaf hat and short cloak, filled the opposite seat, and surveyed the auditory with a look of mingled pride and horror very edifying to see; while the hearers, with their heads thrust forward and their mouths open, listened and trembled, and hoped there was a great deal more to come. Sometimes Will stopped for an instant to look round upon his eager audience, and then, with a more comical expression of face than before and a settling of himself comfortably, which included a squeeze of the young lady before mentioned, he launched into some new wonder surpassing all the others. The setting sun shed his last golden rays upon this little party, who, absorbed in their present occupation, took no heed of the approach of night, or the glory in which the day went down, when the sound of a horse, approaching at a good round trot, invading the silence of the hour, caused the reader to make a sudden stop, and the listeners to raise their heads in wonder. Nor was their wonder diminished when a horseman dashed up to the porch, and abruptly checking his steed, inquired where one John Podgers dwelt. "Here!" cried a dozen voices, while a dozen hands pointed out sturdy John, still basking in the terrors of the pamphlet. The rider, giving his bridle to one of those who surrounded him, dismounted, and approached John, hat in hand, but with great haste. "Whence come ye?" said John. "From Kingston, master." "And wherefore?" "On most pressing business." "Of what nature?" "Witchcraft." Witchcraft ! Everybody looked aghast at the breathless messenger, and the breathless messenger looked equally aghast at everybody — I", ' fcJUi 262 Master Humphrey's Clock except Will Marks who, finding himself unobserved, not only squeezed the young lady again, but kissed her twice. Surely he must have been bewitched himself, or he never could have done it-and the young lady too. or she never would have let him vvH,}!^'* "^?J" ^7^^ Will, drowning the sound of his last kiss which was rather a loud one. ' The messenger turned towards him. and with a frown repeated the word more solemnly than before; then told his errand, which was in brief, that the people of Kingston had been greatly terrified fo^ some nights past by hideous revels, held by witches beneath the gibbet withm a mile of the town, and related and deposed to by chance wayfarers who had passed within ear-shot of the spot; that the sound of their voices m their wild orgies had been plainly heard by many persons; that three old women laboured under strong sus- picion, and that precedents had been consulted and solemn council had and It was found that to identify the hags some single person must watch apon the spot alone; that no single person ha^d the courage to perform the task; and that he had been despatched express to solicit John Podgers to undertake it that very night, as beFng a Tho^y fpdls!"'''"''"; ^''"" ^ '^^''"'^ ^'^'' ^^^ ^^' P^°°^ ^g^i^^t John received this communication with much composure, and r^fj"" %^H X^^.t^^t ^t ^o^ld have afforded him inexpressfble pleasure to do the Kingston people so slight a service, if it were no? for his unfortunate propensity to fall asleep, which no man regretted more than nimself upon the present occasion, but which quite settled the question. Nevertheless he said, there ..as a gentleman present (and here he looked very hard at a tall farrier), who. having been engaged al his life m the manufacture of horseshoes, must be quite invulnerable to the power of witches, and who, he had no d?ubt from his own reputation for bravery and good-nature, would readilv accept the commission The farrier politely thanked him for his good Zf '°\r ^''^ 'i ."^TJ^ ^^^^^y' ^^ ^^ ^*"dy to deserve, but added that, with regard to the present little matter, he couldn't think of it on any account as his departing on suQh an errand would certainly occasion the instant death of his wife, to whom, as they all knew he was tenderly attached Now, so far from this circumstance being fn fh^i^i^'K-f^^J'''^?' ^t^ suspected the reverse, as the farrier wai in the habit of beating his lady rather more than tender husbands usually do; all the married men present, however, applauded his reso ution with great vehemence, and one and all declared that they would stop at home and die if needful (which happily it was not) in defence of their lawful partners. PP y ^«- was notj in This burst of enthusiasm over, they began to look, as by one con- sent, toward Will Marks, who. with his cap more on one side than ever sat watching the proceedings with extraordinary unconcern, ne fta,. never ^.een heaid openly to express his disbelief in witches, but had often cut such jokes at their expense as left it to be inferred; h if not only T he must 3 it — and last kiss, repeated tiich was, rifled for eath the 5d to by 3ot; that \y heard ong sus- 1 council e person had the I express being a \ against ire, and )ressible vere not Jgretted 3 settled present ng been 3e quite doubt, readily lis good t added nk of it jrtainly lew, he 5 being ier was isbands led his at they not) in le con- !e than )ncern. itches, ferred; Master Humphrey's Clock 263 nubliclv stating on several occasions that he considered a broomstick ^convenient charger, and one especially unsuited to the digmty o? the female character, and indulging in other free remarks of the ^ame tendency to the great amusement of his wild companions. ^' a: ttySd at wfll they began to f /.^P- -^^^^^^^^^ themselves, and at length one man cried. Why don t you ask wiii ^ As this was what everybody had been thinking of, they all took up the w^rd, and cried in concert. "Ah! why don't you ask Will? "He don't care," said the famer. "Not he." added another voice in the crowd. "He dor^'t believe in it, you know," sneered a little man with a yellow face and a taunting nose and chin, which he thrust out from finHpr the arm of a long man before him. "Besides.'^said a red-faced gentleman with a gruff voice, "he s a ''''"ThS's''the point!" said the farrier; and all the married men murmured, ah! that was it. and they only wished they were single Siei^elves; they would show him what spirit was. very soon. xSe messenger looked towards Will Marks beseechingly. "it win be a wet night, friend, and my grey nag is tired after yesterday's work " PbS •^^rure^wTlo^'.^nTatout him with a smile, "if nobody else^uts inTbrtter claim to go' for the credit of the town I am your man and I would be, if I had to go afoot. In five minutes I shall be S "te sadSi:, unless'l am depriving any ^P^hy g™t eman he^ the honour of the adventure, which I wouldn t do for «ie woria. Burhere arose a double difficulty, for not only did John Podgers combat the^°solution with all the words he had. which were not mSiv but the young lady combated it too with all the tears she had Xch were ver^ man^ indeed. Will, however, being inflexible, paxned ^. ?inSe's oWtions with a joke, and coaxed the young lady into a smSe fn thSort whispers. As it was plain that he set his mind ^!I^ff and would go Tohn Podgers offered him a few first-rate Trms out of C^wn pocLt. whil he dutifully declined to accept; and Se young lady gave him a kiss, which he also returned "YouCwhat I rnre thing it is to be niamed." «aid Will, and how careful and considerate all these husbands are. There s not a ma^ among them but his heart is leaping to forestall me m this Xnture and :J^t a strong sense of duty keeps him back, fhe hus- bands hi this one little town are a pattern to the world and so must the wives be to^^^ for that matter, or they could never boast half the " wXnf f7r noTeply to this sarcasm, he snapped his fingers and wiSdr^^So the. h^Le. and ^^ence^ntoj^^e ^^^^^^^^^^ S!^s^eS:^i:Si^s^s^^i^ F <J| 264 Master Humphrey's Clock I J with a good cloak hanging over his arm. a good sword girded bv his ^•Now • ?^i"i?!f ^°°^.^°"« caparisoned for the journey ^ ' Now said Will, leaping into the saddle at a bound ''uo anri away. Upon your mettle, friend, and push on. Good nrght'" ^ He kissed his hand to the girl, nodded to his drowsy uncie waved ^n TT^P/^'i^^ rest-and off they flew pell-mell, as if alUhe 'wTtches m England were m their horses' legs.^They were oufof slgM in 1 st h?deStr r:l' -'^ ^ go^Th'o^r^taTn'bS; s'^fd^ e^t say he denied that: but he was rash, very rash and thei wa^ r.r. Tlu ing what the end of it might be; what dVhe go for tha^wa" X' he wanted to know? He wished the young fellow no harm but whv did he go? Everybody echoed these"^ words, and shookTheS^hJads rg-gi^rs^rb^s^^^^ ''-' ^^^^^^ j°^^ ^«^^- ^^o^'r^^"'^^^ h^ctS^r^^^^^^^^^^^ where sundry grave functionaries were assembled. anxSusW expect mg the arrival of the renowned Podgers Thev w^e a lifX h?co pointed to find a gay young man in h?s place; ^urheyp^^^^^^^^^ face upon the matter, and gave him full inst;uctions how he was to conceal himself behind the gibbet, and watch and hS^n ^ +1^ witches, and how at a certain fime he was trburst forth and cu? and slash among them vigorously, so that the suspected parties m^^hth. found bleedmg in their beds next day. and tLrougWy SnS?nded They gave him a great quantity of wholesome advice besMes and which was more to the purpose with Will-a gooJsupper aIi the^ things being done, and midnight nearly come thers^Hed forJh fn show him the spot where he was to ke Jp his drea?^ vS ^"^ The night was by this time dark and threatening There was a rumbling of distant thunder, and a low sighing of wind aSonTtho trees, which was very dismal. The potentlteslf tlTe tow^eDt so uncomnionly close to Will that they trod u^^on his toe-. oT stum hi p^ and besides these annoyances, their teeth chattered so with fear thai Af lf«f.^ ^^ ^S^O"?Panied by a dirge of castanets ' ^' At last they made a halt at the opening of a lonely desolate sn^rp "Yes," he replied. "What then?" Informing him abruptly that it was the gibbet where he was to Th i' *^" V^/^ ^""^ ^°°^ "^^^* ^^ ^" extremely friendly manner and ran back as fast as their feet would carry them ^ "tanner. ca^irdtt ^^l^^^^^^f^:^?}^^^ When he and that nothing dangled from the top brt^mTSon Ss^wS Master Humphrey's Clock 265 swung mournfully to and fro as they weie moved by the breeze. After a careful survey of every quarter he determined to take his station with his face towards tlie town; both because that would place him with his back to the wind, and because, if any trick or surprise were attempted, it would probably come from that direction in the first instance. Having taken these precautions, he wrapped his cloak about him so that it left the handle of his sword free, and ready to his hand, and leaning against the gallows-tree with his cap net quite so much on one side as it had been before, took up his position for the night. * SECOND CHAPTER OF MR. PICKWICK's TALE We left Will Marks leaning under the gibbet with his face towards the town, scanning the distance with a keen )ye, which sought to pierce tlie darkness and catch the earliest glimpse of any person or persons that might appro;ich towards him. But all was quiet, and, save the howling of the wind as it swept across the heath in gusts, and the creaking of the chains that dangled above his head, there was no sound to break the sullen stillness of the night. After half an hour or so this monotony became more disconcerting to Will than the most furious uproar would have been, and he heartily wished for some one antagonist with whom he might have a fair stand-up fight, if it were only to warm himself. Truth to tell, it was a bitter wind, and seemed to blow to the very heart of a man whose blood, heated but now with rapid riding, was the more sensitive to the chilling blast. Will was a daring fellow and cared not a jot for hard knocks or sharp blades; but he could not persuade himself to move or walk about, having just that vague expectation of a sudden assault which made it a comfortable thing to have something at his back, even though that something were a gallows-tree. He had no great faith in the superstitions of the age, still such of them as occurred to him did not serve to lighten the time, or to render his situation the more endurable. He remembered how witches were said to repair at that ghostly hour to churchyards and gibbets, and such-like dismal spots, to pluck the bleeding mandrake or scrape the flesh from dead men's bones, as choice ingredients for their spells; how, stealing by night to lonely places they dug graves with their finger-nails, or anointed themselves before ndmg in the air with a delicate pomatum made of the fat of infants newly boiled. These and many other fabled practices of a no less agreeable nature, and ail having some reference to the circumstance-, in which he was placed, passed and repassed in quick succession through the mind of Will Marks, and adding a shadowy dread to that distrust ana watchfulness which his situation inspired, rendered it, upon the whole, sufficiently uncomfortable. As he had foreseen too. the ram began to descena heavily, aua unving -.-^xv^xv, «.x1^. .,...-.. :~~ mist, obscured even those few objects which the darkness of the 327* m i 'd 266 Master Humphrey's Clock 1 ' I -i ,i i L ^ night had before imperfectly revealed. *lx)ok!" shrieked a voice. "Great Heaven, it has fallen down, and stands erect as if It lived!" xArTwu^P^^^i""^*^ ?'°^® ^^""^ ^^"^; ^^^ vo^" • ^^^' almost at his ear WiU threw off his cloak, drew his sword, .-n.: .iauing swiftly round seized a woman by the wrist, who, recoi'i: . froi i him with a dreadful shriek, fell strugglmg upon her knees. An* ., 'oman. clad, like her whom he had grasped, in mourning g?nne . ^ stood rooted to the spot on which they were, gazing upon his facf> with wild and glaring eyes that quite appalled him. ^ "Say." cried Will, when they had con^ ;...cd each other thus for some time, "what are ye?" "Say what are you," returned the woman, "who trouble even this obscene restmg-place of the dead, and strip the gibbet of its honoured burden? Where is the body?" He looked in wonder and affright from the woman who questioned nim to the other whose arm he clutched. "Where is the body?" repeated his questioner more firmly than before. \ ou wear no livery which marks you for the hireling of the government. You are no friend to us. or I should recognise you. for the friends of such as we are few in number. What are you then and wherefore are you here?" "I am no foe to the distressed and helpless." said Will "Are /e among that number? ye should be by your looks." " "We are!" was the answer. ^^''^^-^tZM'^^.^.^fT,^ ^^^^ wailing and weeping here under cover of the night?" said Will, "It is," replied the woman sternly; and pointing, as she spoke, towards her companion, "she mourns a husband, and I a brother tven the bloody law that wreaks its vengeance on the dead does not make that a crime, and if it did 'twould be alike to us who are past its fear or favour." ^ Will glanced at the two females, and could barely discern that the one whom he addressed was much the elder, and that the other was young and of a slight figure. Both were {ieadly pale, their garments wet and worn, their hair dishevelled and streaming in the wind themselves bowed down with grief and misery; their whole appear- ance most dejected, wretched, and forlorn. A sight so different from any he had expected to encounter touched him to the quick and all idea of anything but their pitiable condition vanished before it I am a rough, blunt yeoman." said Will. "Why I came here is told m a word; you have been overheard at a distance in the silence ot \,he night, and I have undertaken a watch for hags or spirits I can. e here expecting an adventure, and prepared to go through with any .Jf there be aught that I can do to help or aid you, name it, and on the taith of a man who can be secret and trusty, I will stand bv you to the death." a ^ uy "How comes this gibbet to be empty?" asked the elder female. "I 8we£ But this ] it is now; night, sui knowledg whether y the law li removed The wc they conA that they little that him that '. not only whither ii a long ti younger i "You 1 "I hav "And g "Yes. J length." "FolloA Will, \ second bi so mu£!le( offering a way. Thi silence a suddenly shelter, a One of tl the wom( mounted leaving tl They n Putney, j they aligl passed in a small j been hen entered t mask. Will St to foot. 1 of a firm ; but SO SO] one of th( Master Humphrey's Clock 267 "I swear to you," replied Will, "that 1 know as little as yourself. But this I know, that when I came here an hour ago or so, it was as it is now; and if, as I gather from your question, it was not so last night, sure I am that it has been secretly disturbed without the knowledge of the folks in yonder town. Bethink you, therefore, whether you have no friends in league with you or with him on whom the law has d( ':o its worst, by whom these sad remains Lave been removed for burial." The women spoke together, and Will retired a pace or two while they conversed apa-t. He could hear them sob and moan, and saw that they wrung their hands in fruitless agony. He could make out little that they said, but between whiles he gathered enough to assure him that his suggestion was not very wide of the mark, and that they not only suspected by whom the body had been removed, but also whither it had been conveyed. When they had been in conversation a long time, they turned towards him .jin.e more. This time the younger female spoke. "You have offered us your help?" "I have." "And given a pledge that you are still willing to redeem?" "Yes. So far as I may, keeping all plots and conspiracies at arm's length." "Follow us, friend." Will, whose self-possession was now quite restored, needed no second bidding, but with his drawn sword in his hand, and his cloak so mufaed over his left arm as to serve for a kind of shield without offering any impediment to its free action, suffered them to lead the way. Through mud and mire, and wind and rain, they walked in silence a full mile. At length they turned into a dark lane, where, suddenly starting out from beneath some trees where he had taken shelter, a man appeared, having in his charge three saddled horses. One of these (his own apparently), in obedience to a whisper from the women, he consigned to Will, who, seeing that they mounted, mounted also. Then, without a word spoken, they rode on together, leaving the attendant behind. They made no halt nor slackened their pace until they arrived near Putney. At a large wooden house which stood apart from any other they alighted, and giving their horses to one who was already waiting, passed in by a side door, and so up some narrow creaking stairs into a small panelled chamber, where Will was left alone. He had not been here very long, when the door was softly opened, and there entered to him a cavalier whose face was concealed beneath a black mask. Will stood upon his guard, and scrutinised this figure from head to foot. The form was that of a man pretty far advanced in life, but of a firm and stately carriage. His dress was of a rich and costly kind, but so soiled and disordered that it was scarcely to be recognised for one of those gorgeous suits which the expensive taste and fashion of It e 1 . u- I >.« J t ' 1 268 Master Humphrey's Clock If i^ the time prescribed for men of any rank or station. He was booted and spurred, and bore about him even as many tokens of the state of the roads as Will himself. All this he noted, while the eyes behind the mask regarded him with equal attention. This survey over, the cavalier broke silence. "Thou'rt young ^nd bold, and wouidst be richer than thou art?" "The two first I am," returned Will. "The last I have scarcely thought of. But be it so. Say that I would be richer than I am: what then?" "The way lies before thee now," replied the Mask. "Show it me." "First let me inform thee, that thou wert brought here to-night lest thou shouldst too soon have told thy tale to those who placed thee on the watch." "I thought as much when I followed," said Will, "But I am no blab, not .1." "Good,'* returned the Mask. "Now listen. He who was to have executed the enterprise of burying that body, which, as thou hast suspected, was taken down to-night, has left us in our need." Will nodded, and thought within himself that if the Mask were to attempt to play any tricks, the first eyelet-hole on the left-hand side of his doublet, counting from the buttons up the front, would be a very good place in which to pink him neatly. "Thou art here, and the emergency is desperate. I propose his task to thee. Convey the body (now cofl&ned in this house), by means that I shall show, to the Church of St. Dunstan in London to-morrow night, and thy service shall be richly paid Thou'rt about to ask whose corpse it is. Seek not to know. I warn thee, seek not to know. Felons hang in chains on every moor and heath. Believe, as others do, that this was one, and ask no further. The murders of state policy, its victims or avengers, had best r-main unknown to such as thee!" "The mystery of this service," said Will, "bespeaks its danger. What is the reward?" "One hundred golden unities," replied the cavalier. "The danger to one who cannot be recognised as the-friend of a fallen cause is not great, but there is some hazard to be run. Decide between that and the reward." "What if I refuse?" said Will. "Depart in peace, in God's name," returned the Mask in a melan- choly tone, "and keep our secret, remembering that those who brought thee here were crushed and stricken women, and that those who bade thee go free could have bad thy life with one word, and no man the wiser." Men were readier to undertake desperate adventures in those times than they are now. In this case the temptation was great, and the punishment, even in case of detection, was not likely to be very severe, as Will came of a loyal stock, and his uncle was in good repute, and a passable tale to account for his possession of the body and his ignoran* Thee the purj should I after th journey' that offi tale thai of t^e pi succeed, by anot! ments tc added h the end, the mar Kingsto] the pros energies Thefc old Lon containe disguisec horse's 1 that he taking, I It was without murder \ were all like so n lurked ir wall, lyi] their un( crossing, quarrel; > low whis scuffling City and The st verted tl spouts fr^ houses, s to putrei stench, t< of its owr stories t( more like these, gr Master Humphrey's Clock 269 ignorance of the identity might be easily devised. The cavalier explained that a covered cart had been prepared for the purpose; that the time of departure could be arranged so that he should reach London Bridge at dusk, and proceed through the City after the day had closed in; that people would be ready at his journey's end to place the cofl&n in a vault without a minute's delay; that officious inquirers in the streets would be easily repelk i by the tale that he was carrying for interment the corpse of one who ^ad died of t^e plague; and in short showed him every reason why he should succeed, and none why he should fail. After a time they were joined by another gentleman, masked like the first, who added new argu- ments to those which had been already urged; the wretched wife, too, added her tears and prayers to their calmer representations; and in the end. Will, moved by compassion and good-nature, by a love of the marvellous, by a mischievous anticipation of the terrors of the Kingston people when he should be missing next da-^r, and finally, by the prospect of gain, took upon himself the task, aiid devoted all his energies to its successful execution. The following night, when i*, was quite dark, the hollow echoes of old London Bridge responded to the rumbling of the cart which contained the ghastly load, the object of Will Marks' care. Sufficiently disguised to attract no attention by his garb. Will walked at the horse's head, as unconcerned as a man could be who was sensible that he had nov/ arrived at the most dangerous par: of his under- taking, but full of boldness and confidence. It was now eight o'clock. After nine, none could walk the streets without danger of their lives, and even at this hour, robberies and murder were of no uncommon occurrence. The shops upon the bridge were all "losed; the low wooden arches thrown across the way were like so many black pits, in every one of which ill-favoured fellows lurked in knots of three or four; some standing upright against the wall, lying in wait; others skulking in gateways, and thrusting out their uncombed heads and scowling eyes: others crossing and re- crossing, and constantly jostling both horse and man to provoke a quarrel; others stealing away and summoning their companions in a low whistle. Once, even in that short passage, there was the noise of scuffling and the clash of swords behind him, but Will, who knew the City and its ways, kept straight on and scarcely turned his head. The streett; being unpaved, the rain of the night before had con- verted them into a perfect quagmire, which the splashing water- spouts from the gables, and the filth and offal cast from the different houses, swelled in no small degree. These odious matters being left to putrefy in the close and heavy air, emitted an insupportable stench, to which every court and passage poured forth a contribution of its own. Many parts, even of the main streets, with their projecting stories tottering overhead and nearly shutting out the sky, were more like huge chimneys than open ways. At the corners of some of these, great bonfires were burning to prevent infection from the M i=: ■ I A. . .2 I ■ if z 270 Master Humphrey's Clock plague, of which it was rumoured that some citizens had lately died; and few, who availing themselves of the light thus afforded paused for a moment lo look around them, would have been disposed to doubt the existencfe of the disease, or wonder at its dreadful visitations. But it was not in such scenes as these, or even in the deep and miry road, that Will Marks found the chief obstacles to his progress. There were kites and ravens feeding in the streets (the only scavengers the City kept), who, scenting what he carried, followed the cart or fluttered on its top, and croaked their knowledge of its burden and their ravenous appetite for prey. There were distant fires, where the poor wood and plaster tenements wasted fiercely, and whither crowds made their way, clamouring eagerly for plunder, beating down all who came within their r^.ach, and yelling like devils let loose, There were single-handed men flying from bands of ruffians, who pursued them with naked weapons, and hunted them savagely; there were drunken, desperate robbers issuing from thei^ dens and staggering through the open streets where no man dared molest them; there were vagabond servitors returning from the Bear Garden, where had been good sport that day, dragging after them their torn and bleecjfing dogs, or leaving them to die and rot upon the road. Nothing was abroad but cruelty, violence, and disorder. Many were the interruptions which Will Marks encountered from these stragglers, and many the narrow escapes he made. Now some stout bully would take his seat upon the cart, insisting to be driven to his own home, and now two or three men would come down upon him together, and demand that on peril of his life he showed them what he had inside. Then a party of the city watch, upon their rounds, would draw across the road, and not satisfied with his tale, question him closely, and revenge themselves by a little cuffing and hustling for maltreatment sustained at other hands that night. All these assailants had to be rebutted, some by fair words, some by foul, and some by blows. But Will Marks was not the man to be stopped or turned back now he had penetrated so far, and thcugh he got on slowly, still he made his way down ^Flei -street and reached the church at last. As he had been forewarned, all vos in readiness. Directly he stopped, the coffin was removed bv l^^ir men, who appeared so suddenly that they seemed ,0 have slartea from the earth. A fifth mounted the cart, and scarcely allowing Will time to snatch from it a little bundle containing su ii <-,'' his ov 1 clothes as he had thrown off on assuming his disguise, dr • briiUly away. Will never saw cart or man again. He followed the body into the cbiivch. and it was well he lost no time in doing so, for the door was immediately closed. There was no light in the building save that which . jre from a couple of 'Orches borne by two men in cloaks, who sti^ud upon the brink of a vault. Each supported a female figure, and all observed a profound silence. By this dim and solemn glare, which made Will fer' is though (,1 I Master Humphrey's Clock 371 light itself were dead, and its tomb the dreary arches that frowned above, they placed the cofhn in the vault, with uncovered heads, and closed it up. One oi the torch-bearers then turned to Will, and stretched forth his hand, in which was a purse of gold. Something told him directly that those were the same eyes which he had seen beneath the mask. "Take it," said the cavaliev in a low voice, "and be happy. Though these have been hasty obsequies, and no priest has blessed the work, there will not be the less peace with thee thereafter, for having laid his bones beside those of his little children. Keep thy own counsel, for thy sake no less than ours, and God be with the?!" "The blessing of a widowed mother on thy head, good friend!" cried the younger lady ihroufh her tears; "th. blessing of ouo who has now no hope or rest but iu this grave!" Will stood with the pu* ^e in his hard, and involui '•arily made a gesture as though he would r< turn it, for though a thouglitless fellow, he was of a frank and generous na/f-iio. But the two gentlemen, extinguishing their torches, cautioned him to be gone, as their common safety would be endangered by a longer delay; and at the same time their retreating footsteps sounded through the church. He turned, therefore, towards the point at which he had entered, and seeing by a faint gleam in the distance that the door was again partially open, groped his way towards it and so passed into the street. Meantime the local authorities of Kingston had kept watch and ward all the previous night, fancying every now and ther. that dismal shrieks were borne towards them on the wind, and frequently winking to ea^i other, and drawing closer to the fire as they drank the health of the lonely sentinel, upon whom a clerical gentleman present was especially severe b^ reason of his levity and youthful folly. Two or three of the gravest in company, wno were of a theological turn, propounded to him the question, whether such a character was not but poorly armed for single combat with the Devil, and whether he himself would not have been a stronger opponent; but the clerical gentle nan, sharply reproving them for their presumption in dis- cussing such » iestions, clearly showed that a fitter champion than ^Vill covlC. carcely have beer selected, not only for that being a child of h cti an, he was the less likely to be alarmed by the appearance of hi« own father, but because Satan himself would be at his ease in such company, and would not scruple to kick up his heels to an extent wiikh it was quite certain he would ne\'er v nture before clerical eyes, under whose influence (as was notorious) he became quite a tame and milk-and-water character. But when next morning arrived, and with it no Will Marks, and V ex J, strong party repairing to the spot, as a strong party ventured i uo in broad day, found Will gone and the gibbet empty, matters ^.ew serious indeed. The day passing away and no news arriving, and th -fight going on also without any intelligenre. the thing grew more t, H Master Humphrey's Clock m- ^ 272 tremendous still; in short, the neighbourhood worked itself up to such a comfortable pitch of mystery and horror, that it is a great question whether the general feeling was not one of excessive dis- appointment, when; on the second morning, Will Marks returned. However this may be, back Will came in a very cool and collected state, and appearing not to trouble himself much about anybody except old John Podgers, who, having been sent for, was sitting in the Town Hall crying slowly, and dozing between whiles. Having embraced his uncle and assured him of Ms safety. Will mounted on a table and told his story to the crowd. And surely they would have been the most unreasonable crowd that ever assembled together, if they had been in the least respect disappointed with the tale he told them; for besides describing the Witches' Dance to the minutest motion of their legs, and performing it in character on the table, with the assistance of a broomstick, he related how they had carried off the body in a copper caldron, and so bewitched him, that he lost his senses until he found himself lying under a hedge at least ten miles off, whence he had straightway returned as they then beheld. The story gained such universal applause that it soon afterwards brought down express from London the great witch-finder of the age, the Heaven-born Hopkins, who havmg examined Will closely on several points, pronounced it the most extraordinary and the best accredited witch-story ever kno^ under w^ich title it was published at the Three Bibles on London Brid^ small quarto, with a view of the caldron from an original draw id a portrait of the clerical gentleman as he sat by the fire. O. point Will was particularly careful: and that was to describe lor the witches he had seen, three impossible old females whose likenesses never were or will be. Thus he saved the lives of the suspected parties, and of all other old women who were dragged before him to be identified. This circumstance occasioned John Podgers much grief and sorrow, until happening one day to cast his eyes upon his housekeeper, and observing her to be plainly afflicted with rheumatism, he procured her to be burnt as an undoubted witch. For this service to the state he was immediately knighted, and became from that time Sir Tohn Podgers. Will Marks never gained any clue to the mystery in which he had been an actor, nor did any inscripti^- in the church, which he often visited aftenvards, nor any of the Linj^xa inquiries that he dared to make, yield him the least assistance, as he kept his own secret, he was compelled to spend the gold discreetly .,nd sparingly. In the course of time he married the young lady of whom I have already told you, whose maiden name is not recorded, with whom he led a prosperous and happy life. Years and years after this adventure, it was his wont to tell her upon a stormy night that it was a great coiiiiui I. lu i.ixn tw i.i:\us3. LUU3C uuiius, to w^nomsocver tiiey might have once belonged, were not bleaching in the troubled air, but were Master Humphrey's Clock 273 mouldering away with the dust of their own kith and kindred in a quiet grave. FURTHER PARTICULARS OF MASTER HUMPHREY'S VISITOR Being very full of Mr. Pickwick's application, and highly pleased with the compliment he had paid me, it will be readily supposed that long before our next night of meeting I communicated it to my three friends, who unanimously voted his admission into our body. We all looked forward with some impatience to the occasion which would enroll him among us, but I am greatly mistaken if Jack Redbum and myself were not by many degrees the most impatient of the party. At length the night came, and a few minutes after ten Mr. Pickwick's knock was heard at the street-door. He was shown into a lower room, and I directly took my crooked stick and went to ac- company him up-stairs, in order that he might be presented with all honour and formality. "Mr. Pickwick," said I, on entering the room, "I am rejoiced to see you, — rejoiced to believe that this is but the opening of a long series of visits to this house, and but the beginning of a close and lasting friendship." That gentleman made a suitable reply with a cordiality and frank- ness peculiarly his own, and glanced with a smile towards two persons behind the door, whom I had not at first observed, and whom I immediately recognised as Mr. Samuel Weller and his father. It was a warm evening, but the elder Mr. Weller was attired, notwithstanding, in a most capacious greatcoat, and his chin en- veloped in a large speckled shawl, such as is usually worn by stage coachmen on active service. He looked very rosy and very stout, especially about the legs, which appeared to have been compressed into his top-boots with some difficulty. His broad-brimmed hat he held under his left arm, and with the forefinger of his right hand he touched his forehead a great manj' times in acknowledgment of my presence. "I am very glad to see you in such good health, Mr. Weller," said I. "Why, thankee, sir," returned Mr. Weller, "the axle an't broke yet. We keeps up a steady pace, — not too sewere, but vith a moder- ate degree o' friction, — and the consekens is that ve're still a runnin' and comes in to the time reg'lar. — My son Samivel, sir, as you may have read on in history," added Mr. Weller, introducing his first- bom. I received Sam very graciously, but before he could say a word his father struck in again. "Samivel Veller, sir," said the old gentleman, "has conferred ui)on me the ancient title c' grandfather vich had long laid dormouse, and wos s'posed to be nearly hex-tinct in our family. Sammy, relate a anecdote c' \nn o' them boys, — ^that 'ere little anecdote about young Tony sayin' as he vould smoke a pipe unbeknown to his mother." 274 Master Humphrey's Clock "Be quiet, can't you?" said Sam; "I never see such a old magpie — ^never! °*^ «/J-^^*K^« "^^Py^? the blessedest boy." said Mr. Weller, heedless of this rebuff, the blessedest boy as ever / see in my days! of all the charmm est infants as ever I heerd tell on. includin' them as was kiyered over by the robm-rcdbreasts arter they'd committed sooicide with blackberries, there never wos any like that 'ere little Tonv He s alvays a playin vith a quart pot. that boy isi To see him a settin down on the doorstep pretending to drink out of it. and fetching a long breath artervards. and smoking a bit of firevood and sayin Now I'm grandfather. '-to see him a doin' that at two year old is better than any play as wos ever wrote. 'Now I'm grandfather! He vouldn't take a pint pot if you wos to make him %andfTther''l''" ^^ ^^*^ ^'^ '^"^''*' ^""^ ^^^"^ ^® ^^^^' '^"""^ ^'^ Mr. Weller was so overpowered by this picture that he straightway fell into a most alarming fit of coughing, which must certainly have been attended with somefatal result but for the dexterity and prompti- tude of Sam. who, taking a firm grasp of the shawl just under his father s chin, shook him to and fro with great violence, at the same time administering some smart blows between his shoulders By this curious mode of treatment Mr. Weller was finally recovered but "^'^.^^.Tf 7 crimson face, and in a state of great exhaustion. He 11 do now. Sam," said Mr. Pickwick, who had been in some alarm himself. -v""^? ^\^^I-" ^"^^ ^^^' looking reproachfully at his parent. Yes. ^e will do one o' these days.— he'll do for his-self and then he 11 wish he hadn t. Did anybody ever see sich a inconsiderate old me,— laughing into conwulsions afore company, and stampin' on the floor as If he d brought his own carpet vith him and wos under a wager to punch the pattern out in a given time? He'll begin again in a minute. There— he's a goin' off— I said he would!" In fact. Mr. Weller. whose mind was still running upon his pre- cocious grandson, was seen to shake his head from side to side, while a laugh, working hke an earthquake, below the surface, produced various extraordinary appearances in his face, chest, and shoulders, —the more alarming because unaccompanied by any noise whatever, ihese emotions, however, gradually subsided, and after three or lour short relapses he wiped his eyes with the cuff of his coat, and looked about him with tolerable composure. "Afore the governor vith-draws," said Mr. Weller. "there is a pint, respecting vich Sammy has a qvestion to ask. Vile that qvestion is a perwadm this here conwersation. p'raps the gen'lmen vill permit me tore-tire. *^ "Wot are you goin' away for?" demanded Sam, seizing his father by the coat-tail. ^ TuJ ^xV^iT^^ ?f^ f'? ^ uudootiful boy as you, Samivel." returned Mr. Weller. Didn t you make a solemn promise, amountin' almost H i !i M ii > 1 if. h' ■ i, I I* Master Humphrey's Clock 277 You hear she's a to a speeches o' wow, that you'd put that 'ere qvestion on my account?" "Well, I'm agreeable to do it," said Sam, "but not if you go cuttin' away like that, as the bull turned round and mildly observed to the drover ven they wos a goadin' him into the butcher's door. The fact is, sir," said Sam, addressing me, "that he wants to know some- thin' respectin' that 'ere lady as is housekeeper here." "Ay. What is that?" "Vy, sir," said Sam, grinning still more, "he wishes to know vether she " "In short," interposed old Mr. Weller decisively, a perspiration breaking out upon his forehead, "vether that 'ere old creetur is or is not a widder." Mr. Pickwick laughed heartily, and so did I, as I replied decisively, that "my housekeeper was a spinster." "There 1" cried Sam, "now you're satisfied, spinster." "A wot?" said his father, with deep scorn. "A spinster," replied Sam. Mr. Weller looked very hard at his son for a minute or two, and then said, "Never mind vether she makes jokes or not, that's no matter. Wot I say is, is that 'ere female a widder, or is she not?" "Wot do you mean by her making jokes?" demanded Sam, quite aghast at the obscurity of his parent's speech. "Never you mind, Samivel," returned Mr. Weller gravely; "puns may be wery good things or they may be wery bad 'uns, and a female may be none the better or she may be none the vurse for making of 'em; that's got nothin' to do vith widders." "Vy now," said Sam, looking round, "would anybody believe as a man at his time o' life could be running his head agin spinsters and punsters being the same thing?" "There an't a straw's difference between 'em," said Mr. Weller. "Your father didn't drive a coach for so many years, not to be ekal to his own langvidge as far as that goes, Sammy." Avoiding the question of etymology, upon which the old gentle- man's mind was quite made up, he was several times assured that the housekeeper had never been married. He expressed great satisfaction on hearing this, and apologised for the question, remarking that he had been greatly terrified by a widow not long before, and that his natural timidity was increased in consequence. "It wos on the rail," said Mr. Weller, with strong emphasis; "I wos a goin' down to Birmingham by the rail, and I wos locked up in a close carriage vith a living widder. Alone ve wos; the widder and me wos alone; and I believe it wos only because ve wos alone and there wos no clergyman in the conwayance, that that 'ere widder didn't marry me iiiore vC rCttCXicu the hiili-Wuy statluix. \eii x tuiliiC iiOw Siiu ucga,ii a, n\ fl n 4>i I screaming as ve wos a goin' under them tunnels in the dark, — ^how 278 Master Humphrey's Clock she kept on a faintin' and ketchin' hold o' me.— and how I tried to bust open the door as was tight-locked and perwented all escape — Ah! It was a awful thing, most awful!" Mr. Weller was so very much overcome by this retrospect that he was unable, until he had wiped his brow several times, to return any reply to the question whether he approved of railway communication, notwithstanding that it would appear from the answer which he ultimately gave, that he entertained strong opinions on the subject. "I con-sider," said Mr. Weller, "that the rail is unconstitootional and an inwaser o' priwileges, and I should wery much like to know what that 'ere old Carter as once siood up for our liberties and wun 'em too, — I should like to know wot he vould say, if he wos alive now, to Englishmen being locked up vith widders, or vith anybody again their wills. Wot a old Carter vould have said, a old Coachman may say, and I as-sert that in that pint o' view alone, the rail is an inwaser. As to the comfort, vere's the comfort o' sittin' in a harm-cheer lookin' at brick walls or heaps o' mud, never coi in' to a public-house, never seein' a glass o' ale, never goin' through o pike, never meetin' a change o' no kind (horses or othervise), but ah ays comin' to a place, ven you come to one at a^, the wery pictur o' the last, vith the same p'leesemen standin' about, the same blessed old bell a ringin', the same unfort'nate people standin' behind the bars, a waitin' to be let in; and everythin' the same except the name, vich is wrote up in the same sized letters as the last name, and vith the same colours. As to the honour and dignity o' travellin', vere can that be vithout a coachman; and wot's the rail to sich coachm< u and guards as is some- times forced to go by it, but a outrage and a insult? As to the pace, wot sort o' pace do you think I, Tony Veller, could have kept a coach gom' at. for five hundred thousand pound a mile, paid in adwance afore the coach was on the road? And as to the ingein, — a nasty, weezin', creakin', gaspin', pufhn', bustin' monster, alvays out o' breath. >vith a shiny green-and-gold back, like a unpleasant beetle in that 'ere gas magnifier. — as to the ingein as is alvays a pourin' out red-hot coals at night, and black smoke in the day, the sensiblest thmg it does, in my opinion, is, ven there's somethin' in the vay, and it sets up that 'ere frightful scream vich seems to say, 'Now here's two hundred and forty passengers in the wery greatest extremity o' danger, and here's their two hundred and forty screams in vun!' " By this time I began to fear that my friends would be rendered impatient by my protracted absence. I therefore begged Mr. Pick- wick to accompany me up-stairs, and left the two Mr. Wellers in the care of the housekeeper, laying strict injunctions upon her to treat them with all possible hospitality. Si t Master Humphrey's Clock 279 IV THE CLOCK As we were going up-stairs, Mr. Pickwick put on his spectacles, which he had held in his hand hitherto; arranged his neckerchief, smoothed down his waistcoat, and made many other Uttle preparations of that kind which men are accustomed to be mindful of, when they are going among strangers for the first time, and are anxious to impress them pleasantly. Seeing that I smiled, he smiled too, and said that if it had occurred to him before he left home, he would certainly have pre- sented himself in pumps and silk stockings. "I would, indeed, my dear sir," he said very seriously; "I would have shown my respect for the society, by laying aside my gaiters." "You may rest assured," said I, "that they would have regretted your doing so very much, for they are quite attached to them." "No, really!" cried Mr. Pickwick, with manifest pleasure. "Do you think they care about my gaiters? Do you seriou ly think that they identify me at all with my gaiters?" "I am sure they do," I replied. "Well, now." said Mr. PicKvvick. "that is one of the most charming and agreeable circumstances that could possibly have occurred to me!" I should not have written down this short conversation, but that it developed a slight point in Mr. Pickwick's character, with which 1 was not previously acquainted. He has a secret pride in his legs. The manner in which he spoke, and the accompanying glance he bestowed upon his tights, convince me that Mr. Pickwick regards his legs with much innocent vanity. "But here are our friends," said I, opening the door and taking his arm in mine; "let them speak for themselves. — Gentlemen, I present to you Mr. Pickwick." Mr. Pickwick and I mu . nave been a good contrast just then. I. leaning quietly on my crutch-stick, with something of a care-worn, patient air; he, having hold of my arm, and bowing in every direction with the most elastic politeness, and an expression of face whose sprightly cheerfulness and good-humour knew no bounds. The difference between us must have been more striking yet, as we advanced towards the table, and the amiable gentleman, adapting his jocund step to my poor tread, had his attention divided between treating my infirmities with the utmost consideration, and affecting to be wholly unconscious that I required any. I made him personally known to each of my friends in turn. First, to the deaf gentleman, whom he regarded with much interest, and accosted with great frankness ar^d cordiality. He had evidently some • "1 J 1 :i ^>. :S^ Ai IMAGE EVALUATION TiSST TARGET (MT-3) / O ,% .<^ 1.0 I.I M 2.2 S 1^ 110 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ===== .^ 6" — A V] <^ ^ ^. /a <=! /: <r-j « m > ''> > #/ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 28o Master Humphrey's Clock vague Idea at the moment, that my friend being deaf must be dumb ^L 'h ""h u^^I *^^ ^^"^" °P^"^d hi« lips to express the pleasure it aflForded him ^o know a gentleman of whom he had heard so much ^e^p^t^Ss r^lTef^^ ^^^'^^"^^^^ ^^^^--*^^' ^^^^ ^ wa^oSigT^o P,-^'''T^^'",^7'*^.J^^^ Redburn was quite a treat to see Mr Pickwick smiled, and shook hands, and looked at him through his spectacles and under them, and over them, and nodded Ws head approvmgly. and then nodded to me. as much as to say 'This is iust the man; you were quite right"; and then turned to Jack and sa d a few hearty words and then did and said everything over again w?th unimpaired vivacity. As to Jack himself, he was quite as mucJ delighted with Mr. Pickwick as Mr. Pickwick could pSy beTith hmi. Two people never can have met together since the world began who exchanged a warmer or more enthusiastic greeting ^ ' and fw ''Tt''^ ^"^ °.^'f ^^ *^^ difference between this encounter wasclefrtlat'thMSr^'^' ^^.^'^'^^ ^^- Pickwick and Mr. Mi°es It was clear that the latter gentleman viewed our new member as a kinH of rival m the affections of Jack Redburn. and b^sTde? this he had Z'btM'Vr -^i"*'^ '° "^^' ^" ''''''• that ahhough he had no aoubt Mr. Pickwick was a very worthy man. still he did considerthat some of his exploits were unbecoming a gektleman of his vear. «nH o'Ss^'tirttt'^^''^^^^^^^^^^^^ opinions that the law never can by possibility do anything wrong- he therefore looks upon Mr. Pickwick as one who has fust^^sXred in purse and peace for a breach of his plighted faith to an unprotected female and holds that he is called upon to regard hu^Tths^me suspicion on that account. These causes led to a ratSr cold and formal reception; which Mr. Pickwick acknowledged wYth the same stateliness and intense politeness as was displayed on The other s^?e Indeed, he assumed an air of such majestic defiance that I was fear " fill he might break out into some solemn protest or declaradon and Tht nie'c.^ n?'^ ^^°? i"*° ""'' ^^"^^ ^''^--' ^ moment's de°ay^ took his^seat Iff pfpt? ""^^ ^''^^""^^^ successful. The instant he ^«^il A ' [• ,P^^^^ick surveyed us all with a most benevolent aspect, and was taken with a fit of smiling full five minutes lon-ffis interest m our ceremonies was immense, f hey are not verrnumerous or complicated, and a description of them may be comprLd S ve^ ariircontinu?tJ transactions have already Len. anS must nece^ sariiy continue to be, more or less anticipated by being oresentpH Our first proceeding when we are assembled is to shake hands all me'mberW fw '"'^ °'^^i,"^^^ ^^-^^^^ -^ pleasant looks R^^^^^ membering that we assemble not only for the promotion of our happmess, but with the view of adding something T^he common stock an air of languor or indifference in any member of our b^dv would be regarded by the others as a kind of tre^sorWeLve never Master Humphrey's Clock perionned by Master Humpte^y hiSMiJ^reSr«?;h" ' "k*'? may be permitted to assumi the histori^l s^le and fr^lJ f "''• ,1 ^tra^^»y-'wtnTL-S."riBS^S'- = he could improve them Wp nnrHr»« k;^ u- ^ ?' "® thmks sideration of his gooTinYentFon^ Ld ^ presumption in con- see_med. if possible, to exalt Jack in his good opinion ^ ' ^""^ MZterH,^m^hI;^"'^y,^' *^-^ "^P^^^S of the clock-case (of which Master Humphrey has likewise the key), the taking frrvm if o„ papers as will furnish forth our evening^ enter?ai^mlnf «nH "^^""^ ing m the recess such new contributions a^ have be^^^^^ our last meeting. This is alwav<! Hoti^ «^rr i- Provided since deafge„tlema/then'"fiI.'s%td!r;h?°SLpiplP^2t"ncr^^^ our seats round the table before mentioned M^SJ^rW ^^^\^^^^ ^ake as president,_if we can be saidTo havrany p^^^^^^^ ^f ^^^ on the same social footing.-and our fS Jack ^s se^re^^^^^^^ prehmmaries being now concluded we fall intrT^n^ff ^^' ^"'' ^o^staTsYnThrf^^^^^^^ mv> tion which usually pn?s it ^t Mr M^il^? i?'""^ °^^^" °^^ approval notwithstandhil tL deaf gentkmif H °°^' • °"u ^*^ ^^^^ that he can follow the wo'rds on the l^ZontZurH^r^^^^^ '^ hps as he pleases; and Master Humphrey himseW looklnfrT^H ""^t" migl^ty gratification, and glancing Sp .Ll^^'i^^^l^SX rtS att^act^lrall'r^^^^^^^^ -^. would have motion of his head and forefinger afLT^^ I^- complacent rected the air with imaginait^nctuatio^n li^ ^^-i *lu ^' ^"^ ^°^- on his features at every SsrDa^sltl^'nHfi,"''^ I^^* "^^^^^^^ around to observe its Xrf flt^tt ^ ' ""^ *.^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^^ stole eyes and hst^n^T^Ll^^t.^ *t s^l"^ Sr^LS :l'^^^ tf changing expression with which be acted theS^gue to S^°eU, ^ Master Humphrey's Clock 282 agony that Ihe deaf gentleman should know what it was all about, and his extraordinary anxiety to correct the reader when he hesitated at a word in the manuscript, or substituted a wrong one, were alike worthy of remark. And when at last, endeavouring to communicate with the deaf gentleman by means of the finger alphabet, with which he constructed such words as are unknown in any civilised or savage language, he took up a slate and wrote in large text, one word in a line, the question, "How — do— you — like — it?" — when he did this, and handing it over the table awaited the reply, with a countenance cnl^- brightened an improved by hi; great excitement, even Mr. Miles relaxed, and could not forbear looking at him for the moment with interest and favour. "It has occurred to me," said the deaf gentleman, who had watched Mr. Pickwick anr'. everybody else with silent satisfaction — "it has occurred to me," said the deaf gentleman, taking his pipe from his lips, "that now is our time for filling our only empty chair." As our conversation had naturally turned upon the vacant seat, we lent a willing ear to this remark, and looked at our friend inquiringly. "I feel sure," said he, "that Mr. Pickwick must be acquainted with somebody who would be an acquisition to us; that he must know the man we want. Pray let us not lose any time, but set this question at rest. Is it so, Mr. Pickwick?" The gentleman addressed was about to return a verba L reply, but remembering our friend's infirmity, he substituted for this kind of answer some fifty nods. Then taking up the slate and printing on it a gigantic " Yes," he handed it across the table, and rubbing his hands as he looked round upon our faces, protested that he and the deaf gentleman quite understood each other, already. "The person I have in my mind," said Mr. Pickwick, "and whom I should not have presumed to mention to you until some time hence, but for the opportunity you have given me, is a very strange old man. His name is Bamber." "Bamber!" said Jack. "I have certainly heard the name before." "I have no doubt, then," returned Mr. Pickwick, "that you remem- ber him in those adventures of mine (the Posthumous Papers of our old club, I mean) , although he is only incidentally mentioned; and, if I remember right, appears but once." "That's it," said Jack. "Let me see. He is the person who has a grave interest in old mouldy chambers and the Inns of Q)urt, and who relates some anecdotes having reference to his favourite theme, — and an odd ghost story, — is that the man?" "The very same. Now," said Mr. Pickwick, lowering his voice to a mysterious and confidential tone, "he is a very extraordinary and remarkable person; living, and talking, and looking, like some strange spirit, whose delight is to haunt old buildings; and absorbed in that one subject which you have just mentioned, to an extent which is quite wonderful. When I retired into private life, I sought him out, and I do assure you that the more B»see of him, the more strongly I am Master Humphrey's Clock with the strange and dreamy character 283 of his 8 )" am impressed mind." "Where does he live?" I inquired. "He lives," said Mr. Pickwick, " in one of those dull, lonely old places with which his thoughts and stories are all connected- quite alone, and often shut up close for several weeks together. In this dusty solitude he broods upon the fancies ha has so long indulged and when he goes into the world, or anybody from the world without goes to see him, they are still present to his mind and stUl his favourite topic. I may say, I believe, that he has brought himself to entertain a regard for me, and an interest in my visits; feelings which I am certain he would extend to Master Humphrey's Clock if he were once tempted to join us. All I wish you to understand is, that he is a strange secluded visionary, in the world but not of it; and as unlike anybody here as he is unlike anybody elsewhere that I have ever met or known." Mr. Miles received this account of our proposed companion with rather a wry faro, and after murmuring that perhaps he was a little mad, inquired li he were rich, "I never asked him," said Mr. Pickwick. "You might know, sir, for all that," retorted Mr. Miles, sharply ^^ "Perhaps so, sii-," said Mr. Pickwick, no less sharply than the other, ''but I do not. Indeed," he added, relapsing into his usual mildness' "I have no means of judging. He lives poorly, but that would seem to be m keeping with his character. I never heard him allude to his cir- cumstances, and never fell into the society of any man who had the slightest acquaintance with them. I have really told you all I know about him, and it rests with you to say whether you wish to know more, or know quite enough already." We were unanimously of opinion that we would seek to know more- and as a sort of compromise with Mr. Miles (who, although he said "Yes— O certainly — he should like to know more about the gentle- man — he had no right to put himself in opposition to the general wish," and so forth, shook his head doubtfully and hemmed several times with peculiar gravity), it was arranged that Mr. Pickwick should carry me with him on an evening visit to the subject of our discussion, for which purpose an early appointment between that gentleman and myself was immediately agreed upon; it being under- stood that I was to act upon my own responsibility, and to invite him to join us or not, as I might think proper. This solemn question determined, we returned to the clock-case (where we have been fore- stalled by the reader), and between its contents, and the conversation they occasioned, the remainder of our time passed very quickly. When we broke up, Mr. Pickwick took me aside to tell me that he had spend a most charming and delightful evening. Having made this communication with an air of the strictest secrecy, he took Jack Redburn into another corner to tell him the same, and then retired into another corner with the deaf gentleman and the slate, to repeat Ml Id t i 284 Master Humphrey's Clock the assurance. It was amusing to observe the contest in his mind whether he should extend his confidence to Mr. Miles, or treat him with dignified reserve. Half a dozen times he stepped up behind him with a friendly air, and as often stepped back again without saying a word; at last, when he was close at that gentleman's ear and upon the very point of whispering something conciliating and agreeable, Mr. Miles happened suddenly to turn his head, upon which Mr. Pickwick skipped away, and said with some fierceness, "Good night, sir — I was about to say good night, sii , — nothing more"; and so made a bow and left him. "Now, Sam," said Mr. Pickwick, when he had got downstfdrs. "All right, sir," replied Mr. Weller. " Hold hard, sir. Right arm fust — now the left — now one strong conwulsion, and the great- coat's on, sir." Mr. Pickwick acted up these directions, and being further assisted by Sam, who pulled at one side of the collar, and Mr. Weller, who pulled hard at the other, was speedily enrobed. Mr. Weller, senior, then produced a full-sized stable lantern, which he had carefully deposited in a remote corner, on his arrival, and inquired whether Mr. Pickwick would have "the lamps alight." "I think not to-night," said Mr. Pickwick. "Then if this here lady vill per-mit," rejoined Mr. Weller, "we'll leave it here, ready for next journey. This here lantern, mum," said Mr. Weller, handing it to the housekeeper, " vunce belonged to the celebrated Bill Blinder as is now at grass, as all on us vill be in our turns. Bill, mum, wos the hostler as had charge o' them two veil- known piebald leaders that run in the Bristol fast coach, and vould never go to no other tune but a sutherly vind and a cloudy sky, which wos consekvently played incessant, by the guard, wenever they wos on duty. He wos took wery bad one artemoon, arter having been off his feed, and wery shaky on his legs for some veeks; and he says to his mate, 'Matey,' he says, 'I think I'm a-goin' the wrong side o' the post, and that my foot's wery near the bucket. Don't say I an't,' he says, 'for I know I am, and don't let me be interrupted,' he says, 'for I've saved a little money, and I'm a-goin' into the stable to make my last vill and testy mint.' 'I'll take care as nobody interrupts,' says his mate, 'but you on'y hold up your head, and shake your ears a bit, and you're good for twenty years to come.' Bill Blinder makes him no answer, but he goes avay into the stable, and there he soon artervards lays himself down a'tween the two piebalds, and dies, — previously a writin' outside the corn-chest, 'This is the last vill and testymint of Villi im Blinder.' They wos nat'rally wery much amazed at this, and arter looking among the litter, and up in the loft, and vere not, they opens the corn-chest, and finds that he'd been and chalked his vill inside the lid; so the lid was obligated to be took off the hinges, and sent up to Doctor Commons to be proved, and under that 'ere wery instrument this here lantern was passed to Tony Veller; vich circumstarnce, mum, gives it a wally Master Humphrey's Clock 285 in my eyes, and makes me rekvest, if you vili be so kind, as to take partickler care on it." The housekeeper graciously promised to keep the object of Mr. Weller's regard in the safest possible custody, and Mr. Pickwick, with a laughing face, took his leave. The bodyguard followed, side by side; old Mr. Weller buttoned and wrapped up from his boots to his chin; and Sam with his hands in his pockets and his hat half off his head, remonstrating with his father, as he went, on his extreme loquacity. 1 was not a little surprised, on turning to go up-stairs, to encounter the barber in the passage at that late hour; for his attendance is usually confined to some half -hour in the morning. But Jack Redburn, who finds out (by instinct, I think) everything that happens in the house, informed me with great glee, that a society in imitation of our own had been that night formed in the kitchen, under the title of "Mr. Weller's Watch," of which the barber was a member; and that he could pledge himself to find means of making me acquainted with the whole of its future proceedings, which I begged him, both on my own account and that of my readers, by no means to neglect doing. [Old Curiosity Shop is continued here, completing No. IV. ] MR. WELLER'S WATCH It seems that the housekeeper and the l 70 Mr. Wellers were no sooner left together on the occasion of their first becoming acquainted than the housekeeper called to her assistance Mr. Slithers the barber, who had been lurking in the kitchen in expectation of her summons; and with many smiles and much sweetness introduced him as one who would assist her in the responsible office of entertaining her distinguished visitors. "Indeed," said she, "without Mr. Shthers I should have been placed in quite an awkward situation." "There is no call for any hock'erdness, mum," said Mr. Weller with the utmost politeness; "no call wotsumever. A lady," added the old gentleman, looking about him with the air of one who establishes an incontrovertible position,— "a lady can't be hock'erd. Natur' has otherwise purwided." The housekeeper inclined her head and smiled yet more sweetly. The barber, who had been fluttering about Mr. Weller and Sam in a state of great anxiety to improve their acquaintance, rubbed his hands and cried, "Hear, hear! Very true, sir"; whereupon Sam turned about and steadily regarded him for some seconds in silence. "I never knew," said Sam, fixing his eyes in a ruminative manner 286 Master Humphrey's Clock upon the blushing barber,- "1 never knew but vun o' your trade, but he wos worth a dozen, and wos indeed dewoted to his callin'!" "Was he in the easy shaving way, sir," inquired Mr. Slithers, "or in the cutting and curhng line?" "Both," replied Sam; "easy shavin' was his natur', and cuttin' and curlin' was his pride and glory. His whole delight wos in his trade. He spent all his money in bears, and run in debt for 'em besides, and there they wos a growling avay down in the front cellar all day long, and ineffectooaliy gnashing their teeth, vile the grease o' their relations and friends wos being re-tailed in gallipots in the shop above, and the first-floor winder wos ornamented vith their heads; not to speak o' the dreadful aggrawation it must have been to 'em to see a man alvays a walkin' up and down the pavement outside, vith the portrait of a bear in his last agonies, and underneath in large letters, 'Another fine animal wos slaughtered yesterday at Jinkinson'sl' Hows'ever, there they wos, and there Jinkinson wos, till he wos took wery ill with some inn'ard disorder, lost the use of his legs, and wos confined to his bed, vere he laid a wery long time, but sich wos his pride in his profession, even then, that wenever he wos worse than usual the doctor used to go down-stairs and say, 'Jinkinson's wery low this mornin'; we must give the bears a stir'; and as sure as ever they stirred 'em up a bit and made 'em roar, Jinkinson opens his eyes if he wos ever so bad, calls out, 'There's the bears 1' and rewives agin." "Astonishing!" cried the barber. "Not a bit," said Sam, "human natur' neat as imported. Vun day the doctor happenin' to say, 'I shall look in as usual to-morrow mom- m',' Jinkinson catches hold of his hand and says, 'Doctor,' he says, will you grant me one favour?' 'I will, Jinkinson,' says the doctor! 'Then, doctor,' says Jinkinson, 'vill you come unshaved, and let me shave you?' 'I will,' says the doctor. 'God bless you,' says Jinkuison. Next day the doctor came, and arter he'd been shaved all skilful and reg'lar, he says, 'Jinkinson,' he says, 'it's wery plain this does you good. Now,' he says, 'I've got a coachman as has got a beard that 'ud warm your heart to work on, and though the footman,' he says hasn't got much of a beard, still he's a.trying it on vith a pair o' yiskers to that extent that razors is Christian charity. If they take It in turns to mind the carriage when it's a waitin' below,' he says, wot's to hinder you from operatin' on both of 'em ev'ry day as well as upon me? you've got six children,' he says, 'wot's to hinder you from shavm' all their heads and keepin' 'em shaved? you've got two assistants in the shop down-stairs, wot's to hinder you from cuttin' and curlin' them as often as you like? Do this," he says, 'and you're a man agin.' Jinkinson squeedged the doctor's hand and begun that wery day; he kept Lis tools upon the bed, and wenever he felt his- self gettin' worse, he turned to at vun o' the children who wos a runnm' about the house vith heads like clean Dutch cheeses, and shaved him agin. Vun day the lawyer come to make his vill; all the Master Humphrey's- Clock 287 time he wos a takin' it down, Jinkinson was secretly a clippin' avay at his hair vith a large pair of scissors. ' Wot's that ere snippin' noise?' says the lawyer every now and then; 'it's like a man bavin' his hair cut.' I It ts wery like a man havin' his hair cut,' says poor Jinkinson, hidm' the scissors, and lookin' quite innocent. By the time the lawyer found it out, he was wery nearly bald. Jinkinson wos kept alive in this vay for a long time, but at last vun day he has in all the children vun arter another, shaves each on 'em wery clean, and gives him vim kiss on the crown o' his head; then he has in the two assistants, and arter cuttin' and curlin' of 'em in the first style of elegance, says he should like to hear the woice o' the greasiest bear, vich rekvest is imniediately complied with; then he says that he feels wery happy in his mind and vishes to be left alone; and then he dies, previously cuttm' his own hair and makin' one flat curl in the wery middle of his forehead." This anecdote produced an extraordinary effect, not only upon Mr. Slithers, but upon the housekeeper also, who evinced so much anxiety to please and be pleased, that Mr. Weller. with a manner betokening some alarm, conveyed a whispered inquiry to his son whether he had gone "too fur." ''Wot do you mean by too fur?" demanded Sam. "In that 'ere little compliment respectin' the want of hock'erdness in ladies, Sammy," replied his father. "You don't think she's fallen in love with vou in consekens; o' that, do you?" said Sam. "More unlikelier things have come to pass, my boy," replied Mr. Weller in a hoarse whisper; "I'm always afeerd of inadwertent capti- wation, Sammy. If I know'd how to make myself ugly or unpleasant, I'd do it, Samivel, rajrther than live in this here state of perpetival terror!" Mr. Weller had, at that time, no further opportunity of dwelling upon the apprehensions which beset his mind, for the immediate occasion of his fears proceeded to lead the way down-stairs, apologis- ing as they went for conducting him into the kitchen, which apart- ment, however, she was induced to proffer for his accommodation in preference to her own little room, the rather as it afforded greater facilities for smoking, and was immediately adjoining the ale-cellar. The preparations which were alrsady made sufficiently proved that these were not mere words of course, for on the deal table were a sturdy ale- jug and glasses, flanked with clean pipes and a plentiful supply of tobacco for the old gentleman and his son, while on a dresser hard by was goodly store of cold meat and other eatables. At sight of these arrangements Mr. Weller was at first distracted between his love of joviality and his doubts whether they were not to be con- sidered as so many evidences of captivation having already taken place; but he soon yielded to his natural impulse, and took his seat at the table with a very jolly countenance. "As to imbibin' any o' this here flagrant veed, mum, in the pre- 288 Master Humphrey's Clock sence of a lady," said Mr. Weller, taking up a pipe and laying it down again, "it couldn't be. Samivel, total abstinence, H you please." "But 1 like it of all things," said the housekeeper. "No," rejoined Mr. Weller, shaking his head, — "no." "Upon my word I do," said the housekeeper. "Mr. Slithers knows I do." Mr. Weller coughed, and notwithstanding the barber's confirma- tion of the statement, said "No" again, but more feebly than before. The housekeeper lighted a piece of paper, and insisted on applying it to the bowl of the pipe with her own fair hands; Mr. Weller resisted; the housekeeper cried that her fingers would be burnt; Mi. Weller gave way. The pipe was ignited, Mr. Weller drew a long puff of smoke, and detecting himself in the very act of smiling on the housekeeper, put a sudden constraint upon his countenance and looked sternly at the candles, with a determination not to captivate, himself, or en- courage thoughts of captivation in others. From this iron frame oi mind he was roused by the voice of his son. "I don't think," said Sam, who was smoking with great composure and enjoyment, "that if the lady wos agreeable it 'ud be wery far out o' the vay for us four to make up a club of our own like the governors does up-stairs, and let him," Sam pointed with the stem of his pipe towards his parent, "be the president." The housekeeper affably declared that it was the very thing she had been thinking of. The barber said the same. Mr. Weller said no- thing, but he laid down his pipe as if in a fit of inspiration, and per- formed the following manoeuvres. Unbuttoning the three lower buttons of his waistcoat and pausing for a moment to enjoy the easy flow of breath consequent upon this process, he laid violent hands upon his watch-chain, and slowly and with extreme difficulty drew from his fob an immense double-cased silver watch, wnich brought the lining of the pocket with it, and was not to be disentangled but by great exertions and an amazing redness of face. Having fairly got it out at last, he detached the outer case and wound it up with a key of corresponding magnitude; then put the case on again, and having applied the watch to his ear to ascer- tain that it was still going, gave it some half-dczen hard knocks on the table to improve its performance. "Tljat," said Mr. Weller, laying it on the table with its face up- wards, "is the title and emblem o' this here society. Sammy, reach them two stools this vay for the wacant cheers. Ladies and gen'lmen, Mr. Weller's Watch is vound up and now a-goin'. Order!" By way of enforcing this proclamation, Mr. Weller, using the watch after the manner of a president's hammer, and remarking with great pride that nothing hurt it, and that falls and concussions of all kinds materially enhanced the excellence of the works and assisted the regulator, knocked the table a great many times, and declared the association formally constituted. "And don't let's have no grinnin' at the cheer, Samivel," said Mr Master Humphrey's Clock 289 Weller to his son, "or I shall be committin' you to the cellar, and then p'r'aps we may get into what the 'Merrikins call a fix, and the English a qvestion o' privileges." Having uttered this friendly caution, the President settled himself in his chair with great dignity, and requested that Mr Sam^'cl would relate an anecdote. "I've told one," said Sam. "Wery good, sir; tell another,' returned the chair, "We wos a talking jist now, sir," said Sam, turning to Slithers, "about barbers. Pursuing that 'ere fruitful theme, sir, I'll tell you in a wery few words a romantic li^Me story about another barber as p'r'aps you may never have heerd." •' Samivel ! " said Mr. Weller, again bringing his watch and the table into smart collision, "address your obserwations to the cheer, sir, and not to priwate indiwiduals!" "And if I might rise to order," said the barber in a soft voice, and looking round him with a conciliatory smile as he leant over the table, with the knuckles of his left hand resting upon it, — "if I might rise to order, I would suggest that 'barbers' is not exactly the kind of language which is agreeable and soothing to our feelings. You, sir, will correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe there is such a word in the dictionary as hairdressers." "Well, but suppose he wasn't a hairdresser," suggested Sam. "Wy then, sir, be parliamentary and call him vun all the more," returaed his father. "In the same vay as ev'ry gen'lman in another place is a honourable, ev'ry barber in this place is a hairdresser. Ven you read the speeches in the papers, and see as vun gen'lman says of another, 'the honourable m-" Tiber, if he vill allow me to call him so,' you will understan ' " -it that means, ' if he vill allow me to keep up that 'ere pleas.^ . 'wersal fiction.' " It is a common t ■ r.-ned by history and experience, that great men rise with -.ances in which they are placed. Mr. Weller came out so i. capacity of chairman, that Sam was for some time prevente(^ leaking by a grin of surprise, which held his faculties enchained, and at last subside'I in a long whistle of a single note. Nay, the old gentleman appeared even to have aston- ished himself, and that to no small extent, as was demonstrated by the vast amount of chuckling in which he indulged, after the utter- ance of these lucid remarks. "Here's the story," said Sam. "Vunce upon a time there wos a young hairdresser as opened a wery smart little shop vith four wax dummies in the winder, two gen'lmen and two ladies — the gen'lmen vith blue dots for their beards, wery large viskers, oudacious heads of hair, uncommon clear eyes, and nostrils of amazin' pinkness; the ladies vith their heads o' one side, their right forefingers on their lips, and their forms dewelooed beautiful, in vich last respect they had the adwantage over the gen'lmen, as wasn't allowed but wery little shoulder, and terminated rayther abrupt in fancy drapery. He had 328 ■ M Master Humphrey's Clock 290 also a many hair-brushes and tooth-brushes bottled up in th» winder neat glass-cases on the counter, a f, jor-clothed cuttin'-room up- ^airs. and a weighin'-macheen in the shop, right opposite the aoor But the great attraction and ornament wos the dummies, which this here young hairdresser wos constantly a runnin' out in the road to look at, and constantly a runnin' in again to touch up and polish- in short, he wos so proud on 'em, that ven Sunday come, he wos always wretched and mis'rable to think they wos behind the shutters and looked anxiously for Monday on that account. Vun o' these dummies wos a fav'nte vith him beyond the others; and ven any of his acquain- tance asked him wy he didn't get married— as the young ladies he know'd, m partickler, often did— he used to say, 'Never I I never vill enter mto the bonds of vedlock,' he says, 'until I meet vith a young ooman as realises my idea o' that 'ere fairest dummy vith the light hair. Then, and not till then.' he says, 'I vill approach the altar ' All the young ladies he kncw'd as had got dark hair told him this wos wery sinful, and that he wos wurshippin' a idle; but them as wos at all n-ar the same shaae as the dummy coloured up ./ery much, and wos coserved to think him a very nice young man." "Samivel," said Mr. Weller. gravely, "a member o' this associashun bein one o' that 'ete tender sex which is now immedetly referred to I have to rekvest that you vill make no reflections." "I ain't a makin' any. am I?" inquired Sam. "Order, sir!" rejoined Mr. Weller, vdth severe digrity. Then sink- ing the chairman in the father, he added, in his usual tone of voice Samivel, drive on ! " Sam interchanged a smile with the housekeeper, and proceeded "The young hairdresser hadn't been in the habit o' makin this avowal above six months, ven he en-countered a young lady as wos the wery picter o' the fairest dummy. 'Now,' he says, 'it's all up r am a slave!' The young lady wos not only the picter o' the fairest dummy, but she was wery romantic, as the young hairdresser was too. and he says, 'O!' he says, 'here's a community o' feelin' here's a flow o' soul ! ' 1- 3 says, 'here's a interchange o' sentiment ! ' The young lady didn't say much, o' course, but she expressed herself agreeable and shortly artevards vent to see him Vith a mutual friend, '^he hair- dresser rushes out to meet her. but d'rectly she sees the dummies she changes colour and falls a tremblin' wiolently. 'Look up, my love,' says the hairdresser, 'behold your imige in my winder, but not cor- recter than m my art!' 'My imige!' she says. 'Yourn!' replies the hair- dresser. But whose imige is that?' she says, a pinting at vun o' the gen'lmen. 'No vun's, my love,' he says, 'it is but a idea.' 'A idea'' she cries: 'i. .s a portrait. I feel it is a portrait, and that 'ere noble face must be in the millingtary!' 'Wot do I hear!' says he. a crumplin' his curls. 'ViUiam Gibbs.' she says, quite firm, 'never renoo the subject I respect you as a friend,' she says, 'but ray affections is set upon that manly brow.' 'This,' says the hairdresser, 'is a reg'lar blight and in it I perceive the hand of F?>te. Farevell!' Vith these vords he Master Humphrey's C1gv\ 291 rushes into the shop, breaks the dummy' nrjse vith a blow of his curlin'-irons, mel' i him down at the pp.) . Aire, and never smii^is artervards." "The young lady, Mr. Weller?" said tiie housekeeper. "Why, ma'am," said Sam, "findin' that Fate had a spite agin her, .md everybody she tome into contact vith, she never smiled neither, but road a deal o' poetry and pined avay, — by rayther slow degrees, for she ain't dead yet. It took a deal o' poetry to kill the ha. Jresser, and some people .say arter all that it wos more the gin and water as caused him to be run over; p'r'aps it was a little o' both, and came o' mixing the two." The barber declared that Mr. V/eller had related one of the most interesting stories that had ever come within his knowledge, in which opinion the housekeeper entirely concurred. "Are you a married man, sir?" inquired Sam. The barber replied that he had noi that honour. "I s'pose "ou mean to be?" said Sam. "Well," replied the barber, rubbing his hands smirkingly, "I don't knov/, I don't think it's very likely." "That's a bad sign," said Sam; "if you'd said you meant to be vun o* these days, I should ha' looked .^v n you as bein' safe. You're in a wery precarious state." "I am not conscious of any danger, at all events," returned the barber. "No more wos I, sir," said the elder Mr. Weller, interposing; "those vere my symptoms, exactly. I've been took that vay twice. Keep your vether eye op>. ., my friend, or you're gone." There was something so very solemn about this admonition, both in its matter and manner, and also in the way in which Mr. Weller still kept his eye fixed upon the unsuspecting victim, that nobody cared to speak for some little time, and might not have cared to do so for some time longer, if the housekeeper had not happened to sigh, which called off the old gentleman's attention and gave rise to a gallant inquiry whether "there wos anythin' wery piercin' in that 'ere little heart?" "Dear me, Mr. Weller!" said the housekeeper, laughing. "No, but is there anything' as agitates it?" pursued the old gentleman. "Has it always been obderrate, always opposed to the happiness o' human creeturs? Eh? Has it?" At this critical juncture for her blushes and confusion, the house- keeper discovered that more ale was wanted, and hastily withdrew into the cellar to draw the same, followed by the barber, who insisted on carrying the candle. Having looked after her with a very complacent expression of face, and after him with some disdain, Mr. Weller caused his glance to travel slowly roand iue kitchon, until at length it rested on his son. "Sammy," said Mr. Weller, "I mistrust that barber." "Wot for?" returned Sam; "wot's he got to do with you? You're a I 292 Master Humphrey's Clock nice man. you are. arter pretendin' all kinds o' terror to so a navin' compliments and talkin' about hearts and piercers " ^ ^ ^ The imputation of gallantry appeared to afford Mr Weller thp Sammy! e'h?" *'""' ^'~"' '"=^"^^ ""<» piercers.-wos I though, "Wos you? of course you wos." "She don't know no becter, Sammy, there ain't no harm in it —no d.S'ih.tn"''' "'''\°"'>' * P--^'^^- She seemed pSdthCrh d^dn t^she? O course, she wos pleased, it's nafral she should be we^^ ••He"stctraUy wa";;..^'''"*™^" '^™' J°»'"8 » "^^ f-«>er's mirth. oom""trck''''thf mn. r"?' ~">P°^"g h« features, "they're comm Dack, — the little heart s a comine' bark Rnf mofi, +i: wurds o' mine once more, and remembeT'em ven yo^r ^^'^5 he' said 'em. Samivel. I mistrust that 'ere deceitful barber '' ^ [Old Curiosity Shop is continued to the end of the number.] MASTER HUMPHREY. FROM HIS CLOCF-SIDE IN THE CHIMNEY-CORNER Two or three evenings after the institution of Mr. Weller's Watch T \!^Zfu \^^^'^- ^l i^^^^'^ ^" *^^ g^^den. the voice of MrWeHer himself at no great distance; and stopping once or twirl +^ n 1 Z?..''*'''^,^l^; '.'"""^ *^^* theT^rprocee^erfrom^t^ hou^sekeeper's little suting-room. which is at the back of the tose I took no further notice of the circumstance at that time but it formed the subject of a conversation between me anTmy fdend Tack Redburn next mormng. when I found that 7. had not^een deceived m my impression. Jack furnished me with the following pa^^^^^^^ and as he appeared to take extraordinary pleasure in relftW f h!^' I have begged him in future to jot down Ly such d^mSt^^^^^^^ t^olcnn'hff '''^' n^ay please his humour, in order trtthLTa^^^ told m h s own way. I must confess that, as Mr. Pickwick IndhLrP constantly together, I have been influenced, m mak nTthis reque^^^^ by a secret desire to know something of their proceedings ^ ' ^^?h^y''T'''^ '"^ question, the housekeeper's room tas arranged dre se"? T?e^^^^^^^^^^ T ^^^^.^^^^^keeper ferself was ve^ TmaSy dressed^ The preparations, however, were not confined to mere l'::rjf!^r.\'t';?:^l'. - _*- -- P-Pa-d for three per:^'^"^ '^'""^ "" Frv:Sux ves aua jams ana sweet cakes, which heralded Master Humphrey's Clock 293 some uncommon occasion. Miss Benton (my housekeeper bears that t^hTfrLTn '" ^ ''^\' f- ^'^' -'^Pectation. too, frequently goTng to the front door and lookmg anxiously down the lane, and more than once observing to the servant-girl that she expected company and hoped no accident had happened to delay them ^°"^P^"y' ^nd BentT^hnll'rrf/^.^^l^" ^* ^""^*^ allayed'her fears, and Miss Benton hurrying into her own room and shutting herself up in order that she might preserve that appearance of being taken by surprise which is so essential to the polite reception of vSors awaited theu: coming with a smiling countenance. ' Good ev nin', mum," said the older Mr. Weller, looking in at the door after a prefatory tap. "I'm afeere^i we've come in ra/ther arter the time, mum but the young colt being full o' wice, has been a boltin and shym' and gettin' his leg over the traces to ich a exten? that If he an't wery soon broke in, he'll wex me into a broken heart and then he'll never be brought out no more except to learn ^s ^ w'fu'"??' *^^ ^'*^"' °^ ^'^ grandfather's tombstone " nnfTiH? i '^ pathetic words, which were addressed to something outside the door about two feet six from the ground. Mr Welle? introduced a very small boy firmly set upon\ couple of verj Be.'id^. hf '""^^ ^°°^"^ as if nothing could ever knock him dow^ Besides haying a very round face strongly resembling Mr. Weller's and a stout htte body of exactly his build, this young gentleman standmg with his little legs very wide apart, as if the top-boots we?e familiar to them, actually winked upon the housekeeLr with Ss infant eye. in imitation of his grandfather ^ d^iiJi^^-ll^."^^"^^*^ boy, mum," said Mr. Weller, bursting with delight there's a immoral Tony. Wos there ever a little chap o' four As little affected by this observation as by the former aooeal to }ii<! feelings Master Weller elevated in the air^ smalTmSelTa coach whip which he carried in his hand, and addressing the housekeeper Tt which f y^-JiPi"i.^q"i^ed if she was "goinl down the road' ' at which happy adaptation of a lesson he had been taught from infancy. Mr. Weller could restrain his feelings no longe?. but gav^ him twopence on the spot. ^ ^ arter W^^nH/?>f^^^ '*' "^^K ^^'^ ^'' ^^"^^' "^^i^ here is a boy arter his grandfather's own heart, and beats out all the boys as ever wos or will be. Though at the same time, mum." added Mr Weller trying to look gravely down upon his favourite, "it was wery wrong on on him to force poor grandfather to lift him cross-legged over every Se together/' ^^^^^-^^d-forty on 'em all in a row. and wery Here Mr. Weller. whos** f^piip^o xxr^r.^ ,v - ■nc.-rr^-^^^-i "• ^ responsibility, and the importance of impressing him with mo^ rs ■JLSII^Be' 1 1 1 H 1 1 w 1 :fca 1 v.i 294 Master Humphrey's Clock truths burst into a lit of laughter, and suddenly checking himself remarked in a severe tone that little boys as made their grand- fathers put em over posts never went to heaven at any price iiy this time the housekeeper had made tea. and little Tony fl^^^^u I "Jf "" ^^^'^^ ^^'"' ^^^^ ^'^ «y^s nearly on a level with the top of the table, was provided with various delicacies which yielded .r.J'^/T^ K?f ^"?'^'l*- "^^^ housekeeper (who seemed rather afraid of the child notwithstanding her caresses) then patted him on the head, and declared that he was the finest boy she had ever seen .i.i.^'fn' !u'^ ^^- ^^^^^^' "I d°^'* think you'!l see a many sich. and that's the truth. But if my son Samivel vould give me my vurd?^"™' ''''^^ dis-pense vith his-might I wenter to say the ;;What word. Mr. Weller?" said the housekeeper, blushing slightly, fh. ^! .'' Tu"^' returned that gentleman, laying his hand upon the garments of his grandson. "If m>- son Samivel. mum. vould only dis-pense vith these here, you'd see sich a alteration in his appearance as the imagination can't depicter." "But what would you have the child wear instead, Mr. Weller?" said the housekeeper. old^^Inf'?f,^?n "^'r'"" ^^"^r^}'. "'""^' ^8^^" ^^d agen." returned the ?wil '^ u i° P^^^ide him at my own cost vith a suit o' clothes as 'ud be the makm' on him. and form his mind in infancy for those pursuits as I hope the family o' the Vellers vill alvays dewote ^a^dtth.V°- ^T;.°'y ^°^' *^" '^' ^^^y ^°* *^^^ clothes arias grandfather says, father ought to let you vear " .nH^iiif ^! "^^l^^^^^ ^i^d a little sprig weskut and little knee cords and little top-boots and a little green coat with little bright buttons and a httle welwet collar." replied Tony, with great readiLss and no "That's the cos-toom. mum," said Mr. Weller. looking proudly at Z h^r XgJP'^^^ "^^^^ ^^^^ ^ -^''' - ^^- - tha^and ?Ju'd^ ^^?J^f'^^ *^^ housekeeper thought that in such a guise young Tony Th^f i° ""^'^ l'^' *^" ^"^^^ ^* ^?^^^^°^ than anything else o^ that name, or perhaps she was disconcerted to find her previously- fn "f or>f ^^^^^/^«t"^bedf as angels are not commonly represente^d nothSg ° '^"^ waistcoats. She coughed doubtfullyf but aid "One brother and no sister at all." replied Tony. "Sam his name IS, and so's my father's. Do you know my father?" O yes. I know him." said the housekeeper, graciously. Is my father fond of you ? ' ' pursued Tony. ^I hope so." rejoined the smiling housekeeper, fond" of you?""" ^^ ^ moment, and then said. "Is my grandfather Master Humphrey's Clock 295 This would seem a very easy question to answer, but instead of replying to it, the housekeeper smiled in great confusion, and said that really children did ask such extraordinary questions that it was the most difficult thing in the world to talk to them. Mr. Weller took upon himself to reply that he was very fond of the lady; but the housekeeper entreating that he would not put such things into the child's head, Mr. Weller shook his own while she looked another way, and seemed to be troubled with a misgiving that captivation was in progress. It was, perhaps, on this account that he changed the subject precipitately. "It's wery wrong in little boys to make game o' their grand- fathers, an't it, mum?" said Mr. Welkr, shaking his head waggishly, until Tony looked at him, when he counterfeited the deepest dejection and sorrow. "O, very sad!" assented the housekeeper. "But I hope no little boys do that?" "There is vun young Turk, mum," said Mr. Weller, "as havin' seen his grandfather a little overcome vith drink on the occasion of a friend's birthday, goes a reelin' and staggerin' about the house, and makin' believe that he's the old gen'lm'n." "O, quite shocking!" cried the housekeeper. "Yes, mum," said Mr. Weller; "and previously to so doin', this 'ere young traitor that I'm a speakin' of, pinches his little nose to make it red, and then he gives a hiccup and says, 'I'm all right,' he says; 'give us another song!' Ha, ha! 'Give us another song,' he says. Ha, ha, ha!" In his excessive delight, Mr. Weller was quite unmindful of his moral responsibility, until little Tony kicked up his legs, and laughing immoderately, cried, "That was me, that was"; whereupon the grandfather, by a great effort, became extremely solemn. "No, Tony, not you," said Mr. Weller. "I hope it wam't you. Tony. It must ha' been that 'ere naughty little chap as comes some- times out o' the empty watch-box round the corner.— that same httle chap as wos found standin' on the table afore the lookin' -glass, pretending to shave himself vith a oyster-knife." ''He didn't hurt himself, I hope?" observed the housekeeper. "Not he, mum," said Mr. Weller proudly; "bless your heart, you might trust that 'ere boy vith a steam-engine a'most, he's sich a knowin' young"— but suddenly recollecting himself and observing that Tony perfectly understood and appreciated the compliment, the old gentleman groaned and observed that "it wos all wery shockin' wery." "O, he's a bud 'an," said Mr. Weller, "is that 'ere watch-box boy, makm' sich a noise and litter in the back yard, he does, waterin' wooden horses and feedin' of 'em vith grass, and perpetivally spillin' his little brother out of a veelbarrow and frightenin' his mother out of her vits ai" ■fhp \xrpr\r mnmart-i- xTrart oVt^'r. A-u-^rv^^C^i 4.-^ i— i • J '••• •••'.■ fT-.sj. axiu; o Cipc^^tlXi fcu HiVilCiiSC IICV Stock of happiness vith another play-fellow,— O, he's a bad u'n I He's 296 Master Humphrey's Clock faXffn^nn'^iff/' K" ^""^ °? ^ ^^^^ °^ P^?''' spectacles as he got his ?..7^>, J^t^^'"-^'."'' ^"""^ ^^-^ "P a"d down the garden vith h s s'cStl^^gro no"l " ^"'*'*"" "' '''"• P-k-ck.--but'Tony donVdo "O no!" echoed Tony. "He knows better, he does," said Mr. Weller. "He knows that if he wos to come sich games as these nobody vouldn't love S and tha? his grandfather m partickler couldn't abear the sight o^' h?m for vich reasons Tony's alvays good " ' toiv^^lFwK ^^ho^d J«ny.- and his grandfather immediately took him on his knee and kissed him, at the same fime with manv orl'r%lr.f \''^'^P"'"*'"^ ^' *^^ ^^^^^'« ^^^^d witlTL thumb ^^ order that the housekeeper, otherwise deceived by the admirable manner m which he (Mr. Weller) had sustained his ^arLter SLht not suppose that any other young gentleman was referred io and might clearly understand that the boy of the watch-box was but an imagmary creation, and a fetch of Tony himself, invented for h^ improvement and reformation. ^venxea lor nis Not confining himself to a mere verbal description of his erand- son s abilities Mr. Weller. when tea was finished, invited h& various gifts of pence and halfpence to smoke imaginary pipes drink visionary beer from real pots, imitate his grfnd^hTwithTut reserve and m particular to go through the dmnken scene wWch threw the old gentleman into ectasies and filled the housekeeperw th wonder. Nor was Mr. Weller's pride satisfied with even thL dispTay for when he took his leave he carried the child, like some rare and astomshmg curiosity, first to the barber's house and afterwards to the tobacconist's, at each of which places he repeated hisTerform- ances with the utmost etlect to applauding and Lighted audfencS h m hnt'''P"'*r\°''l°."^ "^^"^^- W^"- ^-« laVseercari^^^^^^^ him home upon his shoulder, and it has been whispered abroad that at that time the infant Tony was rather intoxicated \pld Curiosity Shop is continued from here to the end without further break.] I was musing the other evening upon the characters and incidents with which I had been so long engaged; wondering how I could ever have looked forward with pleasure to the completion of my tale and reproaching myself for having done so. as if it were a kind of cruelty to those compamons of my solitude whom I had now dismissed and could never agam recall; when my clock struck ten. PunctuaUo the hour my fnends appeared. "^tuai to tne On our last night of meeting, we had finished the story which the reader has just concluded. Our conversation took the same cu^ent as the meditations which the entrance of mv friends had inf .rrupt^d -^ -d Tne Uld Curiosity Shop was the staple of our discourse " ^ "" WB <| I r. md Master Humphrey's Clock 297 I may confide to the reader now, that in connection with this little history I had something upon my mind; something to communicate which I had all along with difficulty repressed; something I had deemed It. during the progress of the story, necessary to its interest to dis- to dTsdose"^ '""'^ *^^^ '^"^^^ °''^''' ^ '^'^^^'^' ^""^"^^^ yetreluctant. m J° ?''*'^^T^ anything from those to whom I am attached, is not in This f.^'.^;r ? n'ir^' ''^"'^ "^y ^^P' ^^^"^ ^ ^^^« °P^"ed my heart. JflniTZL^ the consciousness of having done some violence to ^U^f Jiffl. H •®' ^^'^ ""^ ""^^"^ ^ restraint which I should have had great difficulty m overcoming, but for a timely remark from Mr Jibft; tn°H Ti ' ""'T^ ^^ '°"^^^ P"P^^' ^^ ^ gentleman of business "1 rn?,?H ? ^^^^ exactness and propriety in all his transactions. 1 could have wished." my fnend objected, "that we had been made acquainted with the single gentleman's name. I don't like hS withholding his name. It made me look upon him at first with sus! picion. and caused me to doubt his moral character. I assure you I a^ fully satisfied by this time of his being a worthy creature; but in thS Sness "^^^^^^y ^°"1^ notappear to have acted at all likeamanof f>,3^ friends." said I. drawing to the table, at which they were by this time seated in their usual chairs, "do you remember that th^ story bore another title besides that one we have so often heard of Mr. Miles had his pocket-book out in an instant, and referring to an entry therein^ rejoined. "Certainly. Personal AdventuresTf Master Humphrey. Here it is. I made a note of it at the time " I was about to resume what I had to tell them, when the same Mr Miles again mterrupted me. observing that the narrative orfgTnafed n a personal adventure of my own. and that was no doubt the reason for Its being thus designated. reason This led me to the point at once. "You will one and all forgive me." I returned, "if for the ereater convemence of the story, and for its better introduction, that Ven- ture was fictitious. I had my share, indeed.-no light or trivi^ one ~ in the pages we have read, but it was not the share I feigned to have at first. The younger brother, the single gentleman the namelels actor m this little drama, stands before you now'' nameless It was easy to see they had not expected this disclosure. , ,/^\ . ^ pursued. "I can look back upon my part in it with a calm half-smiling pity for myself as for some other man. sTt I am h^' indeed; and now the chief sorrows of my life are yours " ' ..H i!-^^/°* say what true gratffication I derived from the sympathy and kindness with which this acknowledgement was recefvTd nor how of ten It had nsen to my lips before; no? how difficult I had found it-how impossible, when I came to those passages which touch^H m. aSumPd''T'?';f ""^^'X^oncerned me-to sustain the character l"had assumed. It is enough to say that I replaced in the clock-case the 328* i r ■ 'j 298 Master Humphrey's Clock F i :J'i ! record of so many triaLs.—sorrowfully. it is true, but with a softened sorrow which was almost pleasure; and folt that in living through the past again; and communicating to others the lesson it had helped to teach me, I had been a happier man. We lingered sq long over the leaves from which I had read, that as I consigned them to their former resting-place, the hand of my trusty clock pointed to twelve, and there came towards us upon the wind the deep voice and distant bell of St. Paul's as it struck the hour of mid- nignt. "This." said I. returning with a manuscript X had taken at the «T.^Tn K Ti*^^u''"'^'''^P?'^*°'^' "*^ ^« °P«"e^ to such music, should be a tale where London's face by night is darkly seen, and where some deed of such a time as this is dimly shadowed out. Which of us here has seen the working of that great machine whose voice has just now ceased? Mr Pickwick had, of course, and so had Mr. Miles. Jack and mv deaf friend were in the minority. I had seen it but a few days before, and could not help telling them of the fancy 1 had about it. f 5 •- I paid my fee of twopence upon entering, to one of the monev- changers who sit within the Temple; and falling, after a few turns up and down, into the quiet train of thought which such a place awakens paced the echoing stones like some old monk whose present world lay all within Its walls As I looked afar up into the lofty dome. I could not if/iir"^''""? "^^'tu T'^ ^'^ reflections whos genius reared that mighty pile. when, the last small wedge of timber fixed, the last nail driven into its home for many centuries, the clang of hammers, and the hum of busy voices gone, and the Great Silence whole years of noise had helped to make, reigning undisturbed around, he mused, as ,'i "^1^' "P°" ^^s w«rk. and lost himself amid its vast extent 1 could not quite determine whether the contemplation of it would im- press him with a sense of greatness or of insignificance; but when I remembered how long a time it had taken to erect, in how short a space It might be traversed even to its remotest parts, for how brief a term he or any of those who cared to bear his name, would live to see it. or know of its existence. I imagined him far more melancholy than proud, and looking with regret upon his labour done. With these thoughts in my mind. I began to ascend, almost unconsciously, the flight of steps leading to the several wonders of the building, and found myself before a barrier where another money-taker sat who demanded which among them I would choose to see. There were the stone gallery, he said, and the whispering gallery, the geometrical staircase the room of models, the clock-theW^beTng qu^S in my way. I stopped him there, and chose that sight from all the rest I groped my way into the Turret which it occupies, and saw before fofHin. do^ T^^^' K^^* '^!™^^ *° ^^ ^ ^'^^^' °^d oaken press with sleeping when 1 came upon him. and looked a drowsy fellow/ as though Master Humphrey's Clock 299 his close companionship with Time had made him quite indifferent to it), disclosed a complicated crowd of wheels and chains in iron and brass.— great, sturdy, rattling engines,— suggestive of breaking a finger put in here or there, and grinding the bone to powder, and these were the Clock I Its very pulse, if I may use the word, was like no other clock. It did not mark the flight of every moment with a gentle second stroke, as though it would check old Time, and have him stay his pace in pity, but measured it with one sledge-hammer beat, as if its business were to crush the seconds as they came trooping on, and re- morselessly to clear a path before the Day of Judgment. I sat down opposite to it, and hearing its regular and never-chang- ing voice, that one deep constant note, uppermost amongst all the noise and clatter in the streets below, — marking that, let that tumult rise or fall, go on or stop, — let it be night or noon, to-morrow or to- day, this year or next,— it still performed its functions with the same dull constancy, and regulated the progress of the life around, the fancy came upon me that this was London's Heart, and that when it should cease to beat, the City would be no more. It is night. Calm and unmoved amidst the scenes that darkness favours, the great heart of London throbs in its Giant breast. Wealth and beggary, vice and virtue, guilt and innocence, repletion and the direst hunger, all treading . »n each other and crowding together, are gathered round it. Draw but a little circle above the clustering house- tops, and you shall have within its space everything, with its opposite extreme and contradiction, close bf>side. Where yonder feeble light is shining, a man is but this moment dead. The taper at a few yards' distance is seen by eyes that have this instant opened on the world. There are two houses separated by an inch or two of wall. In one, there are quiet minds at rest; in the other, a waking conscience that one might think would trouble the very air. In that close corner where the roofs shrink down and cower together as if to hide their secrets from the handsome street hard by, there are such dark crimes, such miseries and horrors, as could be hardly told in whispers. In the handsome street, there are folks asleep who have dwelt there all their lives, and have no more knowledge of these things than if they had never been, or were transacted at the remotest limits of the world, who, if they were hinted at, would shake their heads, look wise, and frown, and say they were impossible, and out of Nature, — as if all great towns were not. Does not this Heart of London, that nothing moves, nor stops, nor quickens, — that goes on the same let what will be donei — does it not express the City's character well? The day begins to break, and soon there is the hum and noise of life. Those who have spent the night on doorsteps and cold stones crawl off to beg; they who have slept in beds come forth to their occu- pation, too, and business is astir. The fog of sleep rolls slowly off and London shines awake. The streets are filled with carriaeres. and nfionle gaily clad. The jails are full, too, to the throat, nor have the^vork- houses or hospitals much room to spare. The courts of law are crowded. w i f m ■ 300 Master Humphrey's Clock Taverns have their regular frequenters by this time, and every mart of traffic has its throng. Each of these places is a world, and has its own inhabitants; each is distinct from, and almost unconscious of the existence of any other. There are some few people well to do, who remember to have heard it said, that numbers of men and women thousands, they think it was — get up in London every day, unknow- ing where to lay their heads at night; and that there are quarters of the town where misery and famine always are. They don't believe it quite, — there may be some truth in it, but it is exaggerated, of course. So, each of these thousand worlds goes on, intent upon itself, until night comes again,— first with its lights and pleasures, and its cheer- ful streets; then with its guilt and darkness. Heart of London, there is a moral in thy every stroke I as I look on at thy indomitable working, which neither death, nor press of life, nor gri^f, nor gladness out of doors will influence one jot, I seem to hear a voice within thee which sinks into my heart, bidding me, as I elbow my way among the crowd, have some thought for the meanest wretch that passes, and. being a man, to turn away with scorn and pride from none that bear the human shape. I am by no means sure that I might not have been tempted to en- large upon the subject, had not the papers that lay before me on the table been a silent reproach for even this digression. I took them up again when I had got thus far, and seriously prepared to read. The handwriting was strange to me, for the manuscript had been fairly copied. As it is against our rules, in such a case, to inquire into the authorship until the reading is concluded, I could only glance at the different faces round me, in search of some expression which should betray the writer, Whoever he might be, he was prepared for this, and gave no sign for my enlightenment. I had the papers in my hand, when my deaf friend interposed with a suggestion. "It has occurred to me, ' ' he said, ' ' bearing in mind your sequel to the tale we have finished, that if such of us as have anything to relate of our own lives could interweave it with our contribution to the Clock, it would be well to do so. This need be nb restraint upon us, either as to time, or place, or incident, since any real passage of this kind may be surrounded by fictitious circumstances, and represented by ficti- tious characters. What if we make this an article of agreement among ourselves?" The proposition was cordially received, but the difficulty appeared to be that here was a long story written before we had thought of it. "Unless," said I, "it should have happened that the writer of this tale — which is not impossible, for men are apt to do so when they write — has actually mingled with it something of his own endurance and experience." i-.'jDoa_y ^purvc, udi, A Liiuugut X uctccLCu iii ouG quartcf that this was really the case. Master Humphrey's Clock 301 Jlu J ^'^'■! r"" assurance to the contrary," I added, therefore, "I shall take it for granted that he has done so. and that even these h^FH^?K''?"'^7'*x'" ?"'■ ""^"^ agreement. Everybody beiug mute, we hold that understanding, if you please." ^ ^ & ulc. we And here I was about to begin again, when Jack informed us softly that during the progress of our last narrative. Mr. Weller's Watch had adjourned its sitting from the kitchen, and regularly met outside our door, where he had no doubt that august body would be found at the present moment. As this was for the convenience of listening to our stones he submitted that they might be suffered to come in. and hear them more pleasantly. To this we one and all yielded a ready assent, and the party being discovered as Jack had supposed, and invited to walk in. entered (though not without great confusion at having been detected) and were accommodated with chairs at a little distance laen. the lamp being trimmed, the fire well stirred and burning brightly, the hearth clean swept, the curtains closely drawn the clock wound up. we entered on our new story. [This was Barnaby Rudge, continued in vol. xi' of this Edition.] fozSj^fh^co'cSn^o?^!'^^^^^^^ °^ ^'^'''^ H«m/>A.^.. Clock. It It is again midnight. My fire burns cheerfully; the room is filled with my old friend's sober voice; and I am left to muse upon the storv we have just now finished. ^ It makes me smile, at such a time a^ this, to think if there were anv one to see me sitting in my easy-chair, my gray head hanging down, my eyes bent thoughtfully upon the glowing embers, and my crutch- emblem of my helplessness— lying upon the hearth at my feet, how solitary I should seem. Yet though I am the sole tenant of this chimney-corner, though I am childless and old. I have so sense of lonehness at this hour; but am the centre of a silent group whose com- pany I iove. ° ^ Thus, even age and weakness have their consolations. If I were a younger man, if I were more active, more strongly bound and tied to Me. tiles'^ visionary friends would shun me, or I should desire to flv from them. Being what I am, I can court their society, and delight in It; and pass whole hours in picturing to myself the shadows that per- chance flock every night into this chamber, and in imagining with pleasure what kind of interest they have in the frail, feeble mortal who IS its sole inhabitant. All the friends I have ever lost I find again among these visitors l^^ 1 • ^"^^ *^^^^ ^P^"*^ hovering about me, feeling still some earthly kindness for their old companion, and watching his decay He 13 weaker, he declines apace, he draws nearer and nearer to us and will soon be conscious of our existence." What is there to alarm me in this ? It is encouragement and hope. These thoughts have never crowded on me half so fast as they have I i 302 Master Humphrey's Clock done to-night. Faces I had long forgotten have become familiar to me once again; traits I had endeavoured to recall for years have come before me in an instant; nothing is changed but me; and even 1 can be my former self at will. Raising my eyes but now to the face of my old clock, I remember quite involuntarily, the veneration, not unmixed with a sort of child- ish awe, with which I used to sit and watch it as it ticked, un- heeded in a dark staircase corner. I recollect looking more grave and steady when I met its dusty face, as if, having that strange kind of life within it, and being free from all excesses of vulgar appetite, and warning all the house by night and day, it were a sage. How often I have hstened to it as it told the beads of time, and wondered at its constancy I How often watched it slowly pointing round the dial, and, while I panted for the eagerly expected hour to come, admired, despite myself, its steadiness of purpose and lofty fre edom from all human strife, impatience, and desire. I thought it cruel once. It was very hard of heart, to my mind, I remember. It was an old servant even then; and I felt as though it ought to show some sorrow; as though it wanted sympathy with us in our distress, and were a dull, heartless, mercenary creature. Ah! how soon I learnt to know that in its ceaseless going on, and in its being checked or stayed by nothing, lay its greatest kindness, and the only balm for grief and wounded peace of mind. To-night, to-night, when this tranquillity and calm are on my spirits, and memory presents so many shifting scenes before me, I take my quiet stand at will by many a fire that has been long ex- tinguished, and mingle with the cheerful group that cluster round it. If I could be sorrowful in such a mood, I should grow sad to think what a poor blot I was upon their youth and beauty once, and now how few remain to put me to the blush; I should grow sad to think that such among them as I sometimes meet with in my daily walks are scarcely less infirm than I; that time brought us to a level; and that all distinctions fade and vanish as we take our trembling steps to- wards the grave. But memory was given us for better purposes than this, and mine is not a torment, but a source of pleasure. To muse upon the gaiety and youth I have known suggests to me glad scenes of harmless mirth that may be passing now. From contemplating them apart, I soon become an actor in these little dramas, and humouring my fancy, lose myself among the beings it invokes. When my fire is bright and high, and a warm blush mantles in the walls and ceiling of this ancient room; when my clock makes cheerful music, like one of those chirping insects who delight in the warm hearth, and are sometimes, by a good superstition, looked upon as the harbingers of fortune and plenty to that household in whose mercies they put their humble trust; when everything is in a ruddy in its flashing light, other smiles and other voices congregate around Master Humphrey's Clock 303 me. invading, with their pleasant harmony, the silence of the time. For then a knot of youthful creatures gather round my fireside, and the room re-echoes to their merry voices. My solitary chair no longer holds its ample place before the fire, but is wheeled into a smaller comer, to leave more room for the broad circle formed about the cheerful hearth. I have sons, and daughters, and grandchildren, and we are assembled on some occasion of rejoicing common to us all. It is a birthday, perhaps, or perhaps it may be Christmas time; but be it what It mr,y, there is rare holiday among us; we are full of glee. In the chimney-corner, opposite myself, sits one who has grown old beside me. She is changed, of course; much changed; and yet I recognise the girl even in that gray hair and wrinkled brow. Glancing from the laughing child who half hides in her ample skirts, and half peeps out,— and from her to the little matron of twelve years old, who sits so womanly and so demure at no great distance from me.— and' from her again, to a fair girl in the full bloom of early womanhood, the centre of the group, who has glanced more than once towards the opening door, and by whom the children, whispering and tittering among themselves, ivill leave a vacant chair, although she bids them not,— I see her image thrice repeated, and feel how long it is before one form and set of features wholly pass away, if ever, from among the living. While I am dwelling upon this, and tracing out the gradual change from infancy to youth, from youth to perfect growth, from that to age. and thinking, with an old man's pride, that she is comely yet, I feel a slight thin hand upon my arm, and, looking down, see seated at my feet a crippled boy,— a gentle. ;jatient child,— whose aspect I know well. He rests upon a Uttle crutch, — I know it too, and leaning on it as he climbs my footstool, whispers, in my ear "I am hardly one of these, dear grandfather, although I love them dearly. They are very kind to me. but you will be kinder still, I know." I have my hand upon his neck, and stoop to kiss him, when my clock strikes, my chair is in its old spot, and I am alone. What if I be? What if this fireside be tenantless. savft for the presence of one weak old man? From my house-top I can look upon a hundred homes, in every one of which these social companions are matters of reahty. In my daily walks I pass a thousand men whose cares are all forgotten, whose labours are made light, whose dull routine work from day to day is cheered and brightened by their glimpses of domestic joy at home. Amid the struggles of this struggling town what cheerful sacrifices are made; what toil endured with readiness; what patience shown and fortitude displayed for the mere sake of home and its affections ! Let me thank Heaven that I can people my fireside with shadows such as these; with shadows of bright objects that exist in crowds about me; and let m. -y, "I am alone no more." to-night. Recollections of the past and visions of the present come 304 Master Humphrey's Clock to bear me company; the meanest man to whom I have ever ff\^,on alms appears, to add lus mite of peace and c^ urt to mv s^^k and whenever the fire withm me shall fn-ni". ^iT f r i . ^ T THE DEAF GENTLEMAN FROM HIS OWN APARTMENT Our dear friend laid down his pen at the end of the foretrolno paragraph, to take it up no more. I little thought ever to 3ov k.l^^^i'^''^ If appear among us at his usual hour next momine we opened nd LnTn^^' ^°°'- ""^ ""^"^^ ^^^"« S^^"' '' ^.TsTof tT^ Scl'f "i!; ^; ' IZ °"'' surprise, we saw him seated before the ashes of his fire with a little table I was accustomed to set at his elbow when I left him for the night at a short distance from him as though he had pushed it away with the idea of rising LdretS ?o his bed. His crutch and footstool lay at his feet as ufual and he wis dressed in his chamber-gown, which he had put on beforelleft hTm t^wIrlTheTr? 'V"^" '^"'' i" ""l' ^^^^^tom^d posture! with his flTe towards the fire, and seemed absorbed in meditation —indeed at first, we almost hoped he was, ^uiuduon, maeea, at ..if 1"^ "P *° ^'"'' T ^^"''^ ^'"^ de^d. I have often, very often rcafiTatd "^So'^^f h"'^/ P'"'^'""^' ^"^ ' — sW llm look u^T. u 1 • ^^a^quil- His face wore a serene, benign exoression not'tLtt hT''''^H"^f ^''y strongly when we lasf shook hands' not that he had ever had any other look. God knows- but ther- wS somethmg m th s so very spiritual, so strangely and ndefinaWv new evTto hi^ ^" ^''^ ""' ^'^^ ""^ ven^^rabTe. that it w^ new even to him. It came upon me all at once when on some slight pretence he called me back upon the previous night to take me by the hand agam, and once more say, "God bless you '' ^ if tnrl;Tr ^r^ "^'^^^ ^P '^^^^' ^"* ^^ h^d not n^oved towards It. nor had he stirred, we all agreed, except, as I have said to push r^^ ^.^s table which he could liave done^and no doubt did wfth a very slight motion of his hand. He had relapsed for a mominTinto ^acV.TadX'd!' meditation, and, with a tho^tful LTrupon M^ I had long known it to be i s wish that whenever this event should conie to pass we might be ah assembled in the house I tSore lost no time in sending for Mr. Pickwick and for Mr. Ties, both of who^^ arrived before the messenger's return. .m.V^ not my purpose to dilate upon the sorrow and affectionate emotions of which I was at once the witness and the sharer But J S^,f7:.°! the humbler mourners, that his faithful'Lfekeepef was .-.rxjr h.«.«.-uxuiiun. tnar tne poor barber would not be comforted: Master Humphrey's Clock 305 and that I shall respect the homely truth and warmth of heart of Mr. Weller and his son to the last moment of my life. "And the sweet old creetur, lir," said the elder Mr. Weller to me in the afternoon, "has bolted. Him as had no wice, and was so free from temper that a infant might ha' drove him, has been took at la«Jt with that 'ere unawoidable fit o' staggers as we all must come to, and gone ofif his feed for ever! I see him," said the old gentleman, with a moisture in hiseye, whichcould not be mistaken, — "I see him gettin', every jouniey. mere and more groggy; I says to Samivel. 'My boy! the Grey's a-goin' at the knees; and now my predilictions is fatally werified, and nim as I could never do enough to serv«? or show my likin' for, is up the great imiwersal spout o' natur'." I was not the less sensible of the old man's attachment because he expressed it in his peculiar manner. Indeed, I can truly assert of both him and his son, that notwithstanding the extraordinary dialogues they held together, and the strange commentaries and corrections with v hich each of them illustrated the other's speech, I do not think it possible to exceed the sincerity of their regret; and that I am sure their thoughtf ulness and anxiety in anticipating the discharge of many little offices of sympathy would have done honour to the most delicate-minded persons. Our friend had frequently told us that his will would be found in a box in the Clock-case, the key of which was in his writir lesk. As he had told us also that he desired it to be opened immed ^cely after his death, whenever that should happen, we met together that night for the fulfilment of his request. We found it where he had told us, wrapped in a sealed paper, and with it a codicil of recent date, in which he named Mr. Miles and Mr. Pickwick his executors, — as having no need of any greater benefit from his estate than a generous token (which he bequeathed to them) of his friendship and remembrance. After pointing out the spot in which he wished his ashes to repose, he gave to "his dear old friends," Jack Redbum and myself, his house, his books, his furniture, — in short, all that his house con- tained; and with this legacy more ample means of maintaining it in its present state than we, with our habits and at our terms of life, c; 1 ever exhaust. Besides these gifts, he left to us, in trust, an annual sum of no insignificant amount, to be distributed in charity among his accustomed pensioners — they are a long list — and such other claimants on his bount>' as might, from tit e to time, present them- selves. And as true charity not only covers a multitude of sins, but includes a multitude of virtues, such as forgiveness, liberal con- struction, gentleness and mercy to the faults of otLvrs, and the remembrance of our own imperfections and advantages, he bade us not inquire too closely into the venial errors of the poor, but finding that they were poor, first to relieve and then endeavour — at an advantage— to reclaim them. To the housekeeper he left an annuity, sufficient for her comfort- ■'I i II ill ■ »■■ !■" ■"■" ! ^ I ^^^S l iff 1 , l. [i 'i '^ ^H 306 Master Humphrey's Clock able maintenance and support through life. For the barber who had attended him many years, he made a similar provision. And I may make two remarks in this particular place: first, that I think this pair are very likely to club their means together and make a match of It; and secondly, that I think my friend had this result in his mind for I have heard him say. more than once, that he could not concur with the generality of mankind in censuring equal marriages made in later life, since there were many cases in which such unions could not fail to be a wise and rational source of happiness to both parties The elder Mr. Weller is so far from viewing this prospect with any feelings of jealousy, that he appears to be very much relieved by its contemplation; and his son, if I am not mistaken, participates in this feelmg. We are all of opinion, however, that the old gentleman's danger, even at its crisis, was very slight, and that he merely laboured under one of those transitory weaknesses to which persons of his temperament are now and then liable, and which becomes less and less alarming at every return, until they wholly subside. I have no doubt he will remain a jolly old widower for the rest of his life as he has already inquired of me. with much gravity, whether a writ of habeas corpus would enable him to settle his property upon Tony beyond the possibility of recall; and has. in my presence, conjured his son. with tears m his eyes, that in the event of his ever becoming amorous again, he will put him in a strait-waistcoat until the fit is past, and distinctly inform the lady that his property is "made over " Although I have very little doubt that Sam would dutifully comply with these injunctions in a case of extreme necessity, and that he would do so with perfect composure and coolness, I do not apprehend things will ever come to that pass, as the old gentleman seems perfectly happy in the society of his son, his pretty daughter-in-law and his grandchildren, and has solemnly announced his determina- tion to take arter the old ' un in all respects"; from which I infer that It IS his intention to regulate his conduct by the model of Mr Pick- wick, who will certainly set him the example of a single hfe I have diverged for a moment from the subject with which I set out, for I know that my friend was interested in these little matters and I have a j atural tendency to linger upon any topic that occupied his thoughts or gave him pleasure and amusement. His remaining wishes are very briefly told. He desired that we would make him the frequent subject of our conversation; at the same time, that we would never speak of him with an air of gloom or restraint but frankly, and as one whom we still loved and hoped to meet agaiA He trusted that the old house would wear no aspect of mourning but that It would be lively and cheerful; and that we would not remove or cover up his picture, which hangs in our dining-room, but make if our companion as he had been. His own room, our place of meeting' remains at his desire in its accustomed state; our seats are placed about the table as of old: his pasv-rhair Kio «^«o1, u;„ J. ft- V. r , . , , 1j .- . ' -• ' "*•• '-s^-^D-, ills V/IULtill, ills footstool, hold their accustomed places, and the clock stands in its Master Humphrey's Clock 307 familiar comer. We go into the chamber at stated times to see that all is as it should be, and to take care that the light and air are not shut out, for on that point he expressed a strong solicitude. But it was his fancy that the apartment should not be inhabited; that it should be religiously preserved in this condition, and that the voice of his old companion should be heard no more. My own history may be summed up in a very few words; and even those I should have spared the reader but for my friend's allusion to me some time since. I have no deeper sorrow than the loss of a child, — an only daughter, who is living, and who fled from her father's house but a few weeks before our friend and I first met. I had never spoken of this even to him, because I have always loved her, and I could not bear to tell him of her error until I could tell him also of her sorrow and regret. Happily I was enabled to do so some time ago. And it will not be long, with Heaven's leave, before she is restored to me; before I find in her and her husband the support of my declining years. For my pipe, it is an old relic of home, a thing of no great worth, a poor trifle, but sacred to me for her sake. Thus, since the death of our venerable friend. Jack Redbum and I have been the sole tenants of the old house; and, day by day, have lounged together in his favourite walks. Mindful of his injunctions, we have long been able to speak of him with ease and cheerfulness, and to remember him as he would be remembered. From certain allusions which Jack has dropped, to his having been deserted and cast off in early life, I am inclined to believe that some passages of his youth may possibly be shadowed out in the history of Mr. Chester and his son, but seeing that he avoids the subject, I have not pursued it. My task is done. The chamber in which we have whiled away so many hours, not, I hope, without some pleasure and some profit, is deserted; our happy hour of meeting strikes no more; the chimney- corner has grown cold; and Master Humphrey's Clock has stopped for ever. fl m ii iili< THE LIFE OF CHARLES DICKENS CHARLES DICKENS: Born i8i2-Died 1870 Editor's Note "He's sick a harbitrary gent!" Thus, according to tradition, was John Forster summed up by a cabman he patronised and with whom he had some words about his fare. The phrase would have delighted Dickens. It is a thumbnail portrait of the man who wrote the famous Life of our author, and who. as mentioned in the Editorial Note to Our Mutual Friend', had the sweep of the arm and the domineering way of Mr, Podsnap. John Forster was a heavyweight man of literature, who combined keen business ability with— on the whole-^ good literary judgment. Dickens, needing such a man, appre- ciated his qualities, and made him his confidant; and their friendship found a lasting memorial in the Life of Dickens. As Lockhart was to Sir Walter Scott, so, in many ways, was Forster to Dickens ; although Forster' s work has hardly the dramatic qualities and wide interest of Lockhart' s. Only these two biographers could command the unique material used in the Lives they wrote ; and both men succeed in bringing their great subjects into the presence of the reader—without intruding their own personalities, as many modern biographers do. Lockhart and Forster also have the same faults : both were guilty of tampering with correspondence in a way then general but nowadays barred. Also, both' men were extremely reticent about certain aspects in the domestic lives of their subjects : a franker attitude would have avoided^ much misunderstanding and suspicion-breeding mystery, but it must be said in their excuse that they were hampered by consideration for people then still living. Notwithstanding these faults, Lockhart's Life of Scott and Forster' s Life of Dickens are with Boswell's Johnson in the front rank of English biography. This abridg- ment of Forster's work aims to preserve its intimate study and the most essential of its illustrative materials in anecdote, letters- etc* .V ( CHARLES DICKENS (Drawing from the Tortrait by Harry Fumiss) THE LIFE OF CHARLES DICKENS BY JOHN FORSTER t • LONDON J HAZELL, WATSON & VINEY, LTD. I. II. III. IV. V. BOOK FIRST CHILDHOOD AND YOUTH 1812-36. JET. 1-24 Earliest Years. Hard Experiences in Boyhood. School Days and Start in Life. Newspaper Reporting and Writing. First Book, and Origin of "Pickwick." wu iM :- i rj 11 1^ 315 ti i J, THE LIFE OF CHARLES DICKENS EARLIEST YEARS I812-22 Charles Dickens, the most popular novelist of the century, and one of the greatest liumorists that England has produced, was born at Landport, in Portsea, on Friday, the seventh of February, 181 2. His father, John Dickens, a clerk in the navy pay-office, was at this time stationed in the Portsmouth Dockyard. He had made acquaintance with the lady, Elizabeth Barrow, who became after- wards his wife, through her elder brother, Thomas Barrow also engaged on the establishment at Somerset House; and she bore him m all a family 01 eight children, of whom two died in infancy The eldest, Fanny (bom 1810), was followed by Charles (entered in the baptismal register of Portsea as Charles John Huffham, though on the very rare occasions when he subscribed that name he wrote Huff am)- by another son, named Alfred, who died in childhood; by Letitia (born 1816); by another daughter, Harriet, a\ ho died also in childhood- by Frederick (born 1820); by Alfred Lamert (bom 1822); and bv Augustus (born 1827). Walter Scott tell us, in his fragment of autobiography, speaking of the strange remedies applied to his lameness, that he remembered lying on the floor in the parlour of his grandfather's farmhouse swathed up in a sheepskin warm from the body of the sheep being then not three years old. David Copperfield's memory goes beyond this. He represents himself seeing so far back into the blank of his infancy as to discem therein his mother and her servant, dwarfed to his sight by stooping down or kneeling on the floor, and himself going unsteadily from the one to the other. He admits this may be fancy though he believes the power of observation in numbers of very young children to be quite wonderful for its closeness and accuracy, and thinks that the recollection of most of us can go farther back into such times than vnc^rwr n-f ijc cni->-r>rAOQ "Rnf .«rU^4- i>« „jj _ -._ tamly not fancy. "If it should appear from anything I may set down in this narrative that I was a child of close observation, or that as a 31/ 1 1| I 'jMHaHMfc. ; m^m H iifl '^^^^^^^B 1 ^^^H 3i8 The Life of Charles Dickens tri man I have a strong memory of my childhood, I undoubtedly lay cKvim to both of these characteristics." Applicable as it might be to David Copperfield, this was unaffectedly true of Charles Dickens. He has often told me that he remembered the small front garden to the house at Portsea, from which he was taken away when he was two years old, and where, watched by a nurse through a low kitchen window almost level with the gravel walk, he trotted about with something to eat, and his little elder sister with him. He was carried from the garden one day to see the soldiers exercise; and I perfectly recollect that, on our being at Portsmouth together while he was writing Nickleby, he recognised the exact shape of the military parade seen by him as a very infant, on the same spot, a quarter of a century before. When his father was again brought up by his duties to London from Portsmouth, they went into lodgings in Norfolk Street, Middle- sex Hospital; and it lived also in the child's memory that they had come away from Portsea in the snow. Their home, shortly after, was again changed, the elder Dickens being placed upon duty in Chatham Dockyard; and the house where he lived in Chatham, which had a plain-looking whitewashed plaster front and a small garden before and behind, was in St. Mary's Place, otherwise called the Brook, and next door to a Baptist meeting-house called Providence Chapel, of which a Mr. Giles he presently mentioned vas minister. Charles at this time was between four and five years old; and here he stayed till he was nine. Here the most durable of his early impressions were received; and the associations that were around him when he died were those which at the outset of his life had affected him most strongly. The house called Gadshill Place stands on the strip of highest ground in the main road between Rochester and Gravesend, Very often had we travelled past it together, many years before it became his home ; and never without some allusion to what he told me when first I saw it in his company, that amid the recollections connected with his childhood it held always a prominent place, for, upon first seeing it as he came from Chatham with his fatl;er, and looking up at it with much admiration, he had been promised that he might himself live in it or in some such house when he came to be a man, if he would only work hard enough. Which for a long time was his ambition. . . . He was a very little and a very sickly boy. He was subject to attacks of violent spasms which disabled him for any active exertion. He was never a good little cricket-player; he was never a first-rate hand at marbles, or peg-top, or prisoner's base; but he had great pleasure in watching the other boys, officers' sons for the most part, at these games, reading while they played; and he had always the belief that this early sickness had brought to himself one inestimable advantage, in the circumstances of his weak health having strongly inclined him to reading. It will not appear, as my narrative moves on, that he owed much to his parents, or was other than in his first The Life of Charles Dickens 91 319 letter to Washington Irving he described himself to have been, a very snmli and not-over-particularly-taken-care-of boy"; but he has frequently been heard to say that his first desire for knowledge, and his earliest passion for reading, were awakened by his mother, fiom whom he learnt the rudiments, not only of English, but also, a little later, of Latin. She taught him regularly every day for a long time, and taught him, he was convinced, thoroughly well. I once put to him a question in connection with this to which he replied in almost exactly the words he placed five years later in the mouth of David Copperfield; "I faintlyremember her teachingme the alphabet; and when I look upon the fat black letters in the primer, the puzzling novelty of their shapes, the easy good nature of O and S always seem to present themselves before me as they used to do." One of the many passages in Copperfield which are literally true, has its proper place here. "My father had left a small collection of books m a little room upstairs to which I had access (for it adjoined my own), and which nobody ?lse in our house ever troubled. From that blessed little room, Roderick Random, Peregrine Pickle, Humphrey Clinker, Tom Jones, The Vicar of Wakefield, Don Quixote, Gil Bias and Robinson Crusoe came out, a glorious host, to keep me company. They kept alive my fancy, and my hope of something beyond that place and time— they, and the Arabian Nights, and the Tales of the Genii— and did me no harm; for, whatever harm was in some of them, was not there for me; I knew nothing of it. It is astonishing to me now, how I found time, in the midst of my porings and blunderings over heavier themes, to read those books as I did. It is curious to me how I could ever have consoled myself under my small troubles (which were great troubles to me), by impersonating my favourite characters in them. ... I have been Tom Jones (a child's Tom Jones, a harmless creature) for a week together. I have sustained my own idea of Roderick Random for a month at a stretch, I verily beheve. I h?,d a greedy relish for a few volumes of voyages and travels— I forget what, now — that were on those shelves; and for days and days I can remember to have gone about my region of our house, armed with the centre-piece out of an old set of boot-trees the perfect realisation of Captain Somebody, of the Royal British Navy, in danger of being beset by savages, and resolved to sell his life at a great price. . . . When I think of it, the picture always rises in my mind, of a summer evening, the boys at play in the churchyard, and I sitting on my bed reading as if for life. Every barn in the neighbour- hood, every stone in the church, and every foot of the churchyard, had some association of its own, in my mind, connected with these books, and stood for some locality made famous in them. I have seen Tom Pipes go climbing up the church steeple; I have watched Strap, with the knapsack on his back, stopping to rest himself upon the wic^et-gate; and I know that Commodore Trunnion held that club with Mr. Pickle in the parlour of our little village alehouse." Every word of this personal recollection had been written down as fact, '. i m 320 The Life of Charles Dickens .u i- ; k f ■ ± some years before it found its way into David Copperfield; the only change in the fiction being his omission of the name of a cheap series of novehsts then in course of pubUcation, by means of which his f atht . had become happily the owner of so large a lump of literary treasure in his small collection of books. The usual result followed. The child took to writing himself; and became famous in his childish circle, for having written a tragedy called Misnar, the Sultan of India, founded (and very literally founded, no doubt) on one of the Tales of the Genii. Nor was this his only distinction. He told a story offhand so well, and sang small comic songs so especially well, that he used to be elevated on chairs and tables, both at home and abroad, for more effective display of these talents; and when he first told me of this, at one of the Twelfth- night parties on his eldest son's birthday, he said he never recalled it that his own shrill little voice of childhood did not again tingle in his ears, and he blushed to think what a horrible little nuisance he must have been to many unoffending grown-up people who were called upon to admire him. His chief ally and encourager in such displays was a youth of some ability, much older than himself, named James Lamert, stepson to his mother's sister, and therefore a sort of cousin, who was his great patron and friend in his childish days. Mary, the eldest daughter of Charles Barrow, himself a lieutenant in the navy, had for her first husband a commander in the navy called Allen, on whose death by drowning at Rio Janeiro she had joined her sister, the navy pay- clerk's wife, at Chatham; in which place she subsequently took for her second husband Doctor Lamert, an army surgeon, whose son James, even after he had been sent to Sandhurst for his education, continued still to visit Chatham from time to time. He had a turn for private theatricals; and as his father's quarters were in the ordnance hospital there, a great rambling place otherwise at that time almost uninhabited, he had plenty of room in which to get up his entertain- ments. The staff-doctor himself played his part, and his portiait will be found in Pickwick. By Lamert, I have often heard him say, he was first taken to the theatre at the very tenderest age. He could hardly, however, have been younger than Charles Lamb, whose first experience was of having seen Artaxevxes when six years old; and certainly not younger than Walter Scott, who was only four when he saw As You Like It on the Bath stage, and remembered having screamed out, "Ain't they brother s?'' when scandalised by Orlando and Oliver beginning to fight. But he was a;, any rate old enough to recollect how his young heart leapt with terror as the wicked King Richard, struggling for life against the virtuous Richmond, backed up and bumped against the box in which he was; and subsequent visits to the same sanctuary, as he tells us, revealed to him man"^'^ wondrous secrets, "nf which nnt the least terrific were, that the witches in Macbeth hore an awful resemblance to the thanes and other proper inhabitants of Scotland; the only 2ap series vhich his £ literary iself; and I tragedy literally ,s this his ing small on chairs iisplay of Twelfth- ecalled it gle in his 3 he must sre called 1 of some tepson to his great lighter of her first death by ivy pay- took for hose son iucation, L turn for Drdnance le almost ntertain- tidit will 2n to the ^er, have 3 was of younger Ake It on Hn't they nning to lis young gling for 1 against ,nctuary, rhich not an awful Scotland; The Life of Charles Dickens 321 and that the good King Duncan couldn't rest in his grave, but was constantly coming out of it, and calling himself somebody else." During the last two years of Charles's residence at Chatham, he was sent to a school kept in Clover Lane by the young Baptist minister already named, Mr. William Giles. I have the picture of him here very strongly in my mind as a sensitive, thoughtful, feeble-bodied little boy, with an amount of exper'ence as well as fancy unusual in such a child, and with a dangerous kmd of wandering intelligence that a teacher might turn to good or evil, happiness or misery, as he directed it. Nor does the influence of Mr. Giles, such as it was, seem to have been other than favourable. Charles had himself a not ungrateful sense in after years that this first of his masters, in his little-cared-for childhood, had pronounced him to be a boy of capacity; and when, about half-way through the publication of Pickwick, his old teacher sent a silver snuff-box with admiring in- scription to "the inimitable Boz," it reminded him of praise far more precious obtained by him at his first year's examination in the Clover Lane academy, when his recitation of a piece out of the Humorist'' s Miscellany about Doctor Bolus had received, unless his youthful vanity bewildered him, a double encore. A habit, the only bad one taught him by Mr. Giles, of taking for a time, in very moderate quantities, the snuff called Irish Blackguard, was the result of this gift from his old master ; but he abandoned it after some few years, and it was never resumed. It was in the boys' playing-ground near Clover Lane in which the school stood that, according to one of his youthful memories, he had been, in the hay-making time, delivered from the dungeons of Seringapatam, an immense pile ("of haycock"), by his countrymen the victorious British ("boy next door and his two cousins"), and had been recognised with ecstasy by his affianced one ("Miss Green"), who had come all the way from England ("second house in the terrace"), to ransom and marry him. It was in this playing-field, too, as he has himself recorded, he first heard in confidence from one whose father was greatly connected, "being under Government," of the existence of a terrible banditti called the radicals, whose principles were that the prince regent wore stays; that nobody had a right to any salary; and that the army and navy ought to be put down; horrors at which he trembled in his bed, after supplicating that the radicals might be speedily taken and hanged. Nor was it the least of the disappointments in his visit of after life to the scenes of his boyhood to have found this play-field swallowed up by a railway station. It was gone, with its two beautiful trees of hawthorn; and where the hedge, the turf and all the buttercups and daisies had been, there was nothing but the stoniest of jolting roads. He was not much over nine years old when his father was recalled from Chatham to Somerset House, and he had to leave this good master, and the old place endeared to him by recoMections that clung to him afterwards all his life long. It was here he had made the 329 i'm xma^'*^ 322 The Life of Charles Dickens K-' n acquaintance not only of the famous books that David Copperfield specially names, . . , but also of the Tatler, The Spectator, The Idler, the Citizen of the World, and Mrs. Inchbald's Collection of Farces. These latter had been, as well, in the little library to which access was open to him; and of all of them his earliest remembrance was the having read them over and over at Chatham, not for the first, the second, or the third time. They were a host of friends when he had no single friend; and, in leaving the place, he has been often heard to say he seemed to be leaving them too. and everything that had given his ailing little life its picturesqueness or sunshine. It was the birthplace of his fancy; and he hardly knew what store he had set by its busy varieties of change and scene, until he saw the falling cloud that was to hide its pictures from him for ever. The gay, bright regiments always going and coming, the continual paradings and firings, the successions of sham-sieges and sham-defences, the plays got up by his cousin in the hospital, the navy pay-yacht in which he had sailed to Sheerness with his father, and the ships floating out in the Medway, with their far visions of sea — he was to lose them all. He was never to watch the boys at their games any more, or see them sham over again the sham-sieges and defences. He was to be taken away to London inside the stage-coach Commodore; and Kentish woods and fields, Cobham park and hall, Rochester cathedral and castle, and all the wonderful romance together, including a red-cheeked baby he had been wildly in love with, were to vanish like a dream. "On the night before we came away," he told me, "my good master came flitting in among the packing-cases to give me Goldsmith's Bee as a keepsake. Which I kept for his sake, and its own, a long time afterwards." A longer time afterwards he recol- lected the stage-coach journey, and in one of his published papers said that never had he forgotten, through all the intervening years, the smell of the damp straw in which he was packed and forwarded, like game, carriage paid. "There was no other inside passenger, and I consumed my sandwiches in solitude and dreariness, and it rained hard all the way, and I thought life sloppier than I expected to find it." The earliest impressions received*^ and retained by him in London were of his father's money involvements; and how 4fst he heard mentioned "the deed," representing in fact that crisis of his father's affairs which is ascribed in fiction to Mr. Micawber's. He knew it in later days to have been a composition with creditors; though at this earlier date he was conscious of having confounded it with parch- ments of a much more demoniacal description. One result from the awful document soon showed itself in enforced retrenchment. The family had to take up its abode in a house in Bayham Street, Camden Town. Bayham Street was about the poorest part of the London suburbs then and the house was a mean small tenement; with a ■wretched little back-garden abutting on a squalid court. Here was no place for The Life of Charles Dickens 323 new acquaintances to hiiu: not a boy was near with whom he might hope to become in any way familiar. A washerwoman Hved next door, and a Bow Street officer lived over the way. Many, many times has he spoken to me of this, and how he seemed at once to fall into a solitary condition apart from all other boys of his own age, and to sink into a neglected state at home which had always been quite unaccountable to him. "As I thought," he said on one occasion very bitterly, "in the little back garret in Bayham Street, of all I had lost in losing Chatham, what would I have given, if I had had anything to give, to have been sent back to any other school, to have been taught something anywhere!" He was at another school already, not knowing it. The self-education forced upon him was teaching, all unconsciously as yet, what, for the future that awaited him, it most behoved him to know. That he took, froni the very beginning of this Bayham Street life, his first impression of that struggling poverty which is nowhere more vividly shown than in the commoner streets of the ordinary London suburb, and which enriched his earliest writings with a freshness of original humour and quite unstudied pathos that gave them much of their sudden popularity, there cannot be a doubt "I certainly understood it," he has often said to me, "quite as wel then as I do now." But he was not conscious yet that he did so understand it, or of the influence it was exerting on his life even then. It seems almost too much to assert of a child, say at nine or ten years old, that his observation of everything was as close and good, or that be had as much intuitive understanding of the character and weaknesses of the grown-up people around him, as when the same keen and wonderful faculty had made him famous among men. But my experience of him led me to put implicit faith in the assertion he unvaryingly himself made, that he had never seen any cause to correct or change what in his boyhood was his own secret impression of anybody, whom he had, as a grown man, the opportunity of testing in later years. How it came that, being what he was, he should now have fallen into the misery and neglect of the time about to be described, was a subject on which thoughts were frequently interchan,^ed between us; and on one i)Ccasion he gave me a sketch of the character of his father which, as I can here repeat it in the exact words employed by him, will be til e best preface I can make to what I feel that I have no alternative but to tell. "I know my father to be as kindhearted and generous a man as ever lived in the world. Everything that I can remember of his conduct to his wife, or children, or friends, in sick- ness or affliction, is beyond ah praise. By me, as a sick child, he has watched night and day, unweariedly and patiently, many nights and days. He never undertook any business, charge or trust that he did not zealously, conscientiously, punctually, honourably discharge, Kis industry has ahvays been untiring. He was p'-^^ud of me, in his way, and had a great admiration of the comic singing. But, in the ease of his temper, and the straitness of his means, he appeared to f i fir 1^ i I 324 The Life of Charles Dickens ill' ^ have utterly lost at this time the idea of educating me at all, and to have utterly put from him the notion that I had any claim upon him, in that regard, whatever. So I degenerated into cleaning his boots of a morning, and. my own; and making myself useful in the work of the little house; and looking after my younger brothers and sisters (we were now six in all); and going on such poor errands as arose out of our poor way of living." , t t x. The cousin by marriage of whom I have spoken, James i^amert, who had lately completed his education at Sandhurst, and was wait- ing in hopes of a commission, lived now with the family m Bayham Street and had not lost his taste for the stage, or his ingenuities m connection with it. Taking pity on the solitary lad, he made and painted a little theatre for him. It was the only fanciful reality of his present life; but it could not supply what he missed most sorely, the companionship of boys of his own age. with whom he might share in the advantages of school, and contend for its prizes. His sister Fanny was at about this time elected as a pupil to the Royal Academy of Music; and he has told me what a stab to his heart it was, thinking of his own disregarded condition, to see her go away to begin her education, amid the tearful; good wishes of everybody in the house. Nevertheless, as time went on, his own education still uncon- sciously went on as well, under the sternest and most potent of teachers; and, neglected and miserable as he was, he managed gradually to transfer to London all the dreaminess and all the romance with which he had invested Chatham. There were then at the top of Bayham Street some almshouses, and were still when he revisited it with me nearly twenty-seven years ago; and to go to this spot, he told me, and look from it over the dust-heaps and dock- leaves and fields (no longer there when we saw it together) at the cupola of St. Paul's looming through the smokr was a treat that served him for hours of vague reflection afterwaro^. To be taken out for a walk into the real town, especially if it were anywhere about Covent Garden or the Strand, perfectly entranced him with pleasure. But most of all, he had a profound attraction of repulsion to St. Giles's. If he could only induce v^homsoever took him out to take him through Seven Dials, he was supremely happy. "Good Heaven !" he would exclaim, "what wild visions of prodigies o! wickedness, want, and beggary, arose in my mind out of that place!" He was all this time, the reader will remember, still subject to continual attacks of illness! and, by reason of them, a very small boy even for his age. That part of his boyhood is now very near of which, when the days of fame and prosperity came to him, he felt the weight upon his memory as a painful burthen until he could lighten it by sharing it with a friend; and an accident I will presently mention led him first to reveal it. There is, however, an interval of some months still to be described, of which, from conversations or letters that passed between us, after or because of this confidence, and that already have yielded fruit to these pages, I can supply some vague and desultory V The Life of Charles Dickens 325 11, and to pon him, ; boots of )rk of the sters (we >se out of I Lamert, was wait- Bayham nuities in tiade and lity of his Drely, the t share in ;er Fanny of Music; ing of his ducation, II uncon- potent of managed d all the e then at I when he go to this md dock- er) at the creat that taken out ere about I pleasure, ion to St. it to take Heaven!" ickedness, ^e was all al attacks JT his age. II the days upon his sharing it 1 him first still to be at pas.sed eady have desultory i notices. The use thus made of them, it is due to myself to remark, was contemplated then; for though, long before his death, I had ceased to believe it likely that I should survive to write about him, he had never withdrawn the wish at this early time strongly expressed, or the confidences, not only then, but to the very eve of his death reposed in me, that were to enable me to fulfil it. The fulfilment indeed he had himself rendered more easy by partially uplifting the veil in David Copperfield. The visits made from Bayham Street were chiefly to two con- nections of the family, his mother's elder brother and his godfather. The latter, who was a rigger, and mast, oar and block maker, lived at Limehouse in a substantial handsome sort of way, and was kind to his godchild. It was alv/ays a great treat to him to go to Mr. Hufi- ham's; and the London night-sights as he returned were a perpetual joy and marvel. Here, too, the comic-singing accomplishment was brought into play so greatly to the admiration of one of the god- father's guests, an honest boat-builder, that he pronounced the little lad to be a "progidy." The visits to the uncle, who was at this time fellow-clerk with his father in Somerset House, were nearer home. Mr. Thomas Barrow, the eldest of his mother's family, had broken his leg in a fall; and, while laid up with this illness, his lodging was in Gerrard Street, Soho, in the upper part of the house of a worthy gentleman then recently deceased, a bookseller named Manson, father to the partner in the celebrated firm of Christie and Mason, whose widow at the time carried on the business. Attracted by the look of the lad as he went upstairs, these good people lent him books to amuse him; among them Miss Porter's Scottish Chiefs, Holbein's Dance of Death, and George Colman's Broad Grins. The latter seized his fancy very much; and he was so impressed by its description of Covent Garden, in the piece called the "Elder Brother," that he stole down to the market by himself to compare it with the book. He remembered, as he said in telling me this, snufiing up the flavour of the faded cabbage-leaves as if it were the very breath of comic fiction. Nor was he far wrong, as comic fiction then, and for some time after, was. It was reserved for himself to give sweeter and fresher breath to it. Many years were to pass first, but he was beginning already to make the trial. His uncle was shave d by a very odd old barber out of Dean Street, Soho, who was never tired of reviewing the events of the last war, and especially of detecting Napoleon's mistakes, and rearranging his whole life for him on a plan of his own. The boy wrote a description of this old barber, but never had courage to show it. At about the same time, taking for his model the description of the canon's housekeeper in Gil Bias, he sketched a deaf old woman who waited on them in Bayham Street, and who made delicate hashes with walnut ketchup. As little did he dare to show this, either; though he thought it, himself, extremely clever. In Bayham Street, meanwhile, affairs were going on badly; the I 326 The Life of Charles Dickens J I- poor boy's visits to his uncle, while the latter was still kept a prisoner bv his accident, were interrupted by another attack of fever; and on his recovery the mysterious "deed" had again come uppermost. His father's resources were so low, and all his expedients so thoroughly exhausted, that trial was to be made whether his mother might not come to the rescue. The time was arrived for her to exert herself she said; and she "must do something." The godfather down at Limehouse was reported to have an Indian connection. People in the East Indies always sent their children home to be educated She would set up a school. They woul.l all grow rich I " it And then, thought the sick boy. "perhaps even I might go t .. 7^1 ' A house was soon found at number four. Gower SUce. iSorth, a large brass plate on the door announced Mrs. Dickens s Establish- ment; and the result I can give in the exact words of the then small actor in the comedy, whose hopes it had raised so high. I left, at a great many other doors, a great many circulars calling attention to the merits of the establishment. Yet nobody ever came to school, nor do I recollect that anybody ever proposed to come, or that the least preparation was made to receive anybody. But I know that we got on very badly with the butcher and baker; that very often we had not too much for dinner; and that at last my father was arrested " The interval between the sponging-house and the prison was passed by the sorrowful lad in running errands and carrying messages for the prisoner, delivered with swollen eyes and through shinini tears; and the last words said to him by his^father before he was finally carried to the Marshalsea. were to the effect that the sun was set upon him for ever. "I really believed at the time." said Dickens to me, "that they had broken my heart.; He took after- wards ample revenge for this false alarm by makmg all the world laugh Sit them in David Copperfield. -A^^f^r-.^- The readers of Mr. :Micawber's history who remember David s first visit to the Marshalsea prison, and how upon seeing the turnkey he recalled the turnkey in the blanket in Roderick Random, will read with curious interest what follows, written as a personal experience of fact two or three years before the.fiction had even entered into his *^"Mv*father was waiting for me in the lodge, and we went up to his room (on the top story but one), and cried very much. And he told me. I remember, to take warning by the Marshalsea. and to observe that if a man had twenty pounds a year and sper -meteen pounds nineteen shillings and sixpence, he would be happy; but that a shilling spent the other way would make him wretched. I see the fire we sat before now; with two bricks inside the rusted grate, one on each side, to prevent its burning too many coals. Some other debtor shared the room with him. who came in by and by; and as the dinner ,..„. . ;«i«f_cforir rpna«t- T was sent up to 'Captain Porter m the ^^ room^oVerhead. with"M"r. Dickens's compliments, and 1 was his son, and could he, Captain P., lend me a knife and fork? The Life of Charles Dickens 327 "Captain Porter lent the knife and fork, with his compliments in return. There was a very dirty lady in his little room; and two wan girls, his daughters, with shock heads of hair. I thought I should not have liked to borrow Captain Porter's comb. The Captain himself was m the last extremity of shabbiness; and if I could draw at all, I would draw an accurate portrait of the old, old brown great-coat he wore, with no other coat below it. His whiskers were large. I saw his bed rolled up in a corner; and what plates and dishes and pots he had, on a shelf; and I knew (God knows how) that the two girls with the shock heads were Captain Porter's natural children, and that the dirty lady was not married to Captain P. My timid, wondering station on his threshold was not occupied more than a couple of minutes, I dare say; but I came down again to the room below with all this as surely in my knowledge, as the knife and fork were in my hand." How there was something agreeable and gipsy-like in the dinner after all, and how he took back the Captain's knife and fork early in the afternoon, and how he went hom.e to comfort his mother with an account of his visit, David Copperiield has also accurately told. TLen, at home, came many miserable daily struggles that seemed to last an immense time, yet did not perhaps cover many weeks. Almost everything by degrees was sold or pawned, little Charles being the principal agent in those sorrowful transactions. Such of the books as had been brought from Chatham, Peregrine Pickle, Roderick Random, Tom Jones, Humphrey Clinker, and all the rest' went first. They were carried off from the little chiffonier, which his father called the library, to a bookseller in the Hampstead Road, the same that David Copperiield describes as in the City Road; and the account of the sales, as they actually occurred and were told to me long before David was born, was reproduced word for word in his imaginary narrative. "The keeper of this bookstall, who lived in a little house behind it, used to get tipsy everj- night, and to be violently scolded by his wife every morning. More than once, when I went there early, I had audience of him in a turn-up bedstead, with a cut in his forehead or a black eye, bearing witness to his excesses over night (I am afraid he was quarrelsome in his drink); and he, with a shaking hand, endeavouring to find the needful shillings in one or other of the pockets of his clothes, which lay upon the floor, while his wife, with a baby in her arms and her shoes down at heel, never left off rating him. Sometimes he had lost his money, and then he would ask me to call again; but his wife had always got some (had taken his, I dare say, while he was drunk), and secretly completed the bargain on the stairs, as we went down together." The same pawnbroker's shop, too, which was so well known to David, became not less familiar to Charles; and a good deal of notice was here taken of him by the pawnbroker, or by his principal clerk who officiated behind the counter, and who, while making' out the duplicate, liked of all things to hear the lad conjugate a Latin verb, and translate or decline his musa and dominus. Everything to this m , 1 m iv 328 The L'fe of Charles Dickens accompaniment went gradually; until at last, even of the furniture of Gower Street number four, there was nothing left except a few chairs, a kitchen table and some beds. Then they encamped, as it were, in the two parlours of the emptied house, and lived there night and day. All which is but the prelude to what remains to be described. II I* 1' I' HARD EXPERIENCES IN BOYHOOD 1822-4 The incidents to be told now would probab' - never have been known to me, or indeed any of the occurrences ol ^as childhood and youth, but for the accident of a question which I put to him one day in the March or April of 1847. I asked if he remembered ever having seen in his boyhood our friend the elder Mr. Dilke, his father's acquaintance and contem- porary, who had been a clerk in the same office in Somerset House to which Mr. John Dickens belonged. Yes, he said, he recollected seeing him at a house in Gerrard Street, whei his uncle Barrow lodged during an illness, and Mr. Dilke had visited him. Never at any other time. Upon which I told him that someone else had been intended in the mention made to me, for that the reference implied not merely his being met accidentally, but his having had some juvenile employment in a warehouse near the Strand; at which place Mr. Dilke, being with the elder Dickens one day, had noticed him, and received, in return for the gift of a half-crown, a very low bow. He was silent for several minutes; I felt that I had unintentionally touched a painful place in his memory; and to Mr. Dilke I never spoke of the subject again. It was not, however, then, but some weeks later, that Dickens made further allusion to my thus having struck unconsciously upon a time of which he never could lose the remem- brance while he remembered anything, and the recollection of which, at intervals, haunted him and made him miserable, even to that hour. Very shortly afterwards, I learnt in all their detail the incidents that had been so painful to him, and what then was said to me or written respecting them revealed the story of his boyhood. The idea of David Copperfield, which was to take all the world into his con- fidence, had not at this time occurred to him; but what it had so startled me to know, his readers were afterwards told with only such change or addition as for the time might sufficiently disguise himself under cover of his hero. For, the poor little lad, with good The Life of Charles Dickens 329 ability and a most sensitive nature, turned at the age of ten into a "labouring hind" in the service of "Murdstone and Grinby." and conscious already of what made it seem very strange to him that ho could so easily have been thrown away at such an age, was indeed himself. His was the secret agony of soul at findiig himself "com- panion to Mick Walker and Mealy Potatoes," and his the tears that mingled with the water in which he and they rinsed and washed out bottles. It had all been written, as fact, before he thought of any other use for it; and it was not until several months later, when the fancy of David Copperfield. itself suggested by what he had so written of his early troubles, began to take shape in his mind, that he abandoned his first intention of writing his own life. Those warehouse experiences fell then so aptly into the subject he had chosen, that he could not resist the temptation of immediately using them; and the manu- script recording them, which was but the first portion of what he had designed to write, was embodied in the substance of the eleventh and earlier chapters of his novel. What already had been sent to me. however, and proof-sheets of the novel interlined at the time, enable me now to separate the fact from the fiction; and to supply to the story of the author's childhood those passages, omitted from the book, which, apart from their illustration of the growth of his charac- ter, present to us a picture of tragical suffering, and of tender as well as humorous fancy, unsurpassed in even the wonders of his published writings. The person indirectly responsible for the scenes to be described was the young relative James Lamert, the cousin by his aunt's marriage of whom I have made frequent mention, who got up the plays at Chatham, and after passing at Sandhurst had been living with the family in Bayham Street in the hope of obtaining a com- mission in the army. This did not come until long afterwards, when, in consideration of his father's services, he received it, and relin- quished it then in favour of a younger brother; but he had mean- while, before the family removed from Camden Town, ceased to live with them. The husband of a sister of his (of the same name as him- self, being indeed his cousin, George Lamert), a man of some pro- perty, had recently embarked in an odd sort of commercial specula- tion; and had taken him into his office, and his house, to assist in it. I give now the fragment of the autobiography of Dickens. "This speculation was a rivalry of ' Warren's Blacking, 30, Strand,* —at that time very famous. One Jonathan Warren (the famous one was Robert), living at 30, Hungerford Stairs, or Market, Strand (for I forget which it was called then), claimed to have been the original inventor or proprietor of the blacking recipe, and to have been deposed and ill-used by his renowned relation. At last he put himself in the way of selling his recipe, and his name, and his 30, Hungerford Stairs, Strand (30, Strand, very large, and the intermediate direction very small), for an annuity; and he set forth by his agents that a liltle capital would make a great business of it. The r n of sojtis 329* .11 I. : [ 330 The Life of Charles Dickens If '& 1 property was found in George Lamert, the cousin and brother-in- law of James. He bought this right and title, and went into the blacking business and the blacking premises. " — In an evil hour for me, as I often bitterly thought. Its chief manager, James Lamert, the relative who had lived with us in Bayhani Street, seeing how I was employed from day to day, and knowing what our domestic circumstances then were, proposed that I should go into the blacking warehouse, to be as useful as I could, at a salary, I think, of six shillings a week. I am not clear whether it was six or seven. I am inclined to believe, from my uncertainty on this head, that it was six at first, and seven afterwards. At any rate, the offer was accepted very willingly by my father and mother, and on a Monday morning I went down to the blacking warehouse to begin my business life. "It is wonderful to me how I could have been so easily cast away at such an age. It is wonderful to me that, even after my descent into the poor little drudge I had been since we came to London, no one had compassion enough on me — a child of singular abilities: quick, eager, delicate, and soon hurt, bodily or mentally — to suggest that something might have been spared, as certainly it might have been, to place me at any common school. Our friends, I take it, were tired out. No one made any sign. My father and mother were quite satisfied. They could hardly have been more so, if I had been twenty years of age, distinguished at a grammar-school, and going to Cambridge. "The blacking warehouse was the last house on the left-hand side of the way, at old Hungerford Stairs. It was a crazy, tumble-down old house, abutting of course on the river, and literally overrun with rats. Its wainscotted rooms and its rotten floors and staircase, and the old grey rats swarming down in the cellars, and the sound of their squeaking and scuffling coming up the stairs at all times, and the dirt and decay of the place, rise up visibly before me, as if I were there again. The counting-house was on the first floor, looking over the coal-barges and the river. There was a recess in it, in which I was to sit and work. My work was tc cover the pots of paste-blacking: first with a piece of oil-paper, and then with a piece of blue paper; to tie them round with a string; and theij to clip the paper close and neat all roimd, until it looked as smart as a pot of ointment from an apothecary's shop. When a certain number of grosses of pots had attained this pitch of perfection, I was to paste on each a printed label; and then go on again with more pots. Two or three other boys were kept at similar duty downstairs on similar wages. One of them came up, in a ragged apron and a paper cap, on the first Monday morning, to show me the trick of using the string and tying the knot. His name was Bob Fagin; and I took the liberty of using his name, long afterwards, in Oliver Twist. "Our relative had kindly arranged to teach me something in the dinner-hour; from twelve to one, I think it was; every day. But an arrangement so incompatible with counting-house business soon died it.' The Life of Charles Dickens 331 away, from no fault of his or mine; and for the same reason, my small work-table, and my grosses of pots, my papers, string, scissors, paste- pot and labels, by little and little, vanished out of the recess in the countmg-house, and kept company with the other small work-tables grosses of pots, papers, string, scissors and paste-pots downstairs It wap not long before Bob Fagin and I, and another boy whose name was Paul Green, but who was currently believed to have been christened Poll (a belief which I transferred, long afterwards, again to Mr. Sweedlepipe, in Martin Chuzzlewit), worked generally, 3ide by side. Bob Fagin was an orphan, and lived with his brother-in-law a waterman. Poll Green's father had the additional distinction of bemg a fireman, and was employed at Drury Lane theatre- where another relation of Poll's. I think his little sister, did imps' in the pantomimes. "No words can express the secret agony of my soul as I sunk into this companionship; compared these everyday associates with those of my happier childhood; and felt my early hopes of growing up to be a learned and distinguished man crushed in my breast. The deep remembrance of the sense T had of being utterly neglected and hope- less; of the shame I felt in my position; of the misery it ^'a.s to my young heart to believe that, day by day. what I had learned, and thought, and delighted in. and raised my fancy and my emulation up by. was passing away from me. never to be brought back any more; cannot be written. My whole nature was so penetrated with the grief and humiliation of such considerations, that even now. famous and caressed and happy, I often forget in my dreams that I have a dear wife and children; even that I am a man; and wander desolately back to that time of my life. '"'Ty mother and my brothers and sisters (excepting Fanny in the Royal Academy of Music) were still encamped, with a young servant- girl from Chatham Workhouse, in the two parlours in the emptied house in Gower Street North. It was a long way to go and return with- in the dinner-hour, and, usually, I either carried my dinner with me, or went and bought it at some neighbouring shop. In the latter case! it was commonly a saveloy and a penny loaf; sometimes, a four- penny plate of beef from a cook's shop; sometimes, a plate of bread and cheese, and a glass of beer, from a miserable old public-house over the way; the Swan, if I remember right, or the Swan and some- thing else that I have forgotten. Once, I remember tucking my own bread (which I had brought from home in the morning) under my arm, wrapped up in a piece of paper like a book, and going into the best dining-room in Johnson's alamode beef-house in Clare Court, Drury Lane, and magnificently ordering a small plate of alamode beef to eat with it. What the waiter thought of such a strange little apparition, coming in all alone, I don't .mow; but I can see him now, staring at me as I ate my dinner, and bringing up the other waiter to look. I gave him a halfpenny, and I wish, now, that he hadn't taken It." f . . i :A m V it' ll 332 The Life of Charles Dickens I lose here for a little while the fragment of direct narrative but I perfectly recollect that he used to describe Saturday night as his creat treat. It was a grand thing to walk home with six shillin-s in his pocket and to look in at the shop windows, and think what 'it would buy. Hunt s roasted corn, as a British and patriotic substitute for coffee, was m great vogue just then; and the little fellow used to buv It and roast it on the Sunday. There was a cheap periodical of selected pieces called the Portfolio which he had also a great fancv for taking h me with him. The new proposed "deed." mean vshile, had failed to propitiate his father's creditors; all hope of arrangement passed away; and the end was that his mother and her encampment in Gower Street North broke up and went to live in the Marshalsea. I am able at this point to resume his own account. ' 71^^ ^^yP^ *^^ house was sent back to the landlord, who was -rv glad to get It; and I (small Cain that I was. except that I had i done harm to anyone) was handed over as a lodger to a reduce^ d lady, long known to our family, in Little College Street. Camuen Town who took children m to board, and had once done so at Brighton; and who. with a few alterations and embellishments un- ^^ciously began to sit for Mrs. Pipchin in Dombey. when she took •■She had a little brother and sister under her care then; some- body s natural children, who were very irregularly paid for- and a widow s little son. The two boys and I slept in the same room. My own exclusive breakfast, of a penny cottage loaf and a pennyworth of milk, I provided for myself. I kept another small loaf, and a quarter of a pound of cheese, on a particular shelf of a particular cupboard- to make my supper on when I came back at night. They made a hole in the six or seven shillings. I know well; and I was out at the blacking warehouse all day, and had to support myself upon that money all the week I suppose my lodging was paid for. by my father I cer- tamly did not pay it myself; and I certainly had no other assistance whatever (the making of my clothes. I think, excepted), from Monday morning until Saturday night. No advice, no counsel, no encourage- ment, no consolation, no support, from anyone that I can call to mmd, so help me God. in T^nflTt^^^^^.^S'^ ^ P^^'o^ ^" *^^ P"'°"- ^ ^^« at the academy m Tenterden Street, Hanover Square, at nins o'clock in the morning to fetch her; and we walked back there together at night "I was so young and childish, and so little qualified—how roulH I be otherwise -to undertake the whole charge of my own existence that, in gom^ .0 Hungerford Stairs of a morning, I could not resist the staJe pastry put out at half-price on trays at the confectioners' doors in Tottenham Court Road; and I often spent in that the money I should have kept for my dinner. Then I went without my dinner or bougid a roll or a slice of pudding. There were two i-udding shops between which I was divided, according tn mv finano^c o„^ .Z^^ :J^ court close to St. Martin's Church (at the back of the church)" which The Life of Charles Dickens 333 is now removed altogether. Tb ; pudding at that shop was made with currants, and was rather a special pudding, but was dear: two penn'orth not being larger than a penn'orth of more ordinary pud- ding. A good shop for the latter was in the Strand, somewhere near where the Lowther Arcade is now. It was a stout, hfle pudding, heavy and flabby; with great raisins in it, stuck in whole, 'c great distances apart. It came up hot, at about Uv^on every day; and many and many a day did I dine off it. "We had half an hour, I think, f .>r tea. When I had money eno jgh, I used to go to a coffee-shop, and have half a pint of coffee, and a slice of bread and butter. When I had no money, I took a turn in Covent Garden Market, and stared at t>e pineapples. The coffee-shops to which I most resorted were, one ii Vlaiden Lane; one in a court (non-existent now) close to Hungeri ♦•d Market; and one in St. Martin's Lane, of which I only recollect that it stood near the church, and that in the door there was an oval glass plate, with coffee-room painted on it, addressed towards the street. If I ever find myself in a very different kind of coffee-room now, but v/here there is such an inscription on glass, and read it backward on the wrong side moor- EEFFOC (as I often used to do then, in a dismal reverie), a shock goes through my blood. "I know I do not exaggerate, unconsciously and unintentionally, the scantiness of my resources and the difftculties of my life. I know that if a shilling or so were given me by anyone, I spent it in a dinner or a tea. I know that I worked, from morning to night, with common men and boys, a sliabby child. I know that I tried, but ineffectually, not to anticipate my money, and to make it last the week through by putting it away in a drawer I had in the counting-house, wrapped into six little parcels, each parcel containing the same amount, and labelled with a different day. I know that I have lounged about the streets, insufficiently and unsatisfactorily fed. I know that, but for the mercy of God, I might easily have been, for any care that was taken of me, a little robber or a little vagabond. "But I held some station at the blacking warehouse too. Besides that my relative at the counting-house did what a man so occupied, and dealing with a thing so anomalous, could, to treat me as one upon a different footing from the rest, I never said, to man or boy, how it was that I came to be there, or gave the least indication of being sorry that I was there. 'J'hat I suffered in secret, and that I suffered exquisitely, no one ever knew but I. How much I suffered, it is, as I have said already, utterly beyond my power to tell. No man's imagination can overstep the reality. But I kept my own coun- sel, and I did my work. I knew from the first that, if I could not do my work as well as any of the rest, I could not hold myself above a slight and contempt. I soon became at least as expeditious and as skilful with my hands as either of the other boys. Though perfectly familiar with them, my conduct and manners were different eiiougli from theirs to place a space between us. They, and the men, always spoke fi Kl 334 The Life of Charles Dickens HI: ■ of me as 'the young gentleman.' A certain man (a soldier once) named Thomas, who was the foreman, and another named Harry, who was the carman and wore a red jacket, used to call me 'Charles' sometimes, in speaking to me; but I think it was mostly when we were very confidential, and when I had made some efforts to entertain them over our work with the results of some of the old readings, which were fast perishing out of my mind. Poll Green uprose onre, and rebelled against the 'young-gentleman ' usage; but Bob Fagin settled him speedily. "My rescue from this kind of existence I considered quite hopeless, and abandoned as such, altogether; though I am solemnly convinced that 1 never, for one hour, was reconciled to it, or was otherwise than miserably unhappy. I felt keenly, however, the being so cut off from my parents, my brothers, and sisters; and. when my day's work was done, going home to such a miserable blank; and that. I thought, might be corrected. One Sunday night I remonstrated with my father on this head, so pathetically and with so many tears, that his kind nature gave way. He began to think that it was not quite right. I do believe he had never thought so before, or thought about it. It was the first remonstrance I had ever made about my lot, and perhaps it opened up a little more than I intended. A back-attic was found for me at the house of an insolvent court agent, who lived in Lant Street in the Borough, where Bob Sawyer lodged many years afterwards. A bed and bedding were sent over for me, and made up on the floor. The little window had a pleasant prospect of a timber-yard; and when I took possession of my nev: abode, I thought it was a Paradise." There is here another bl ^>k, -w > . It is, however, not difficult to supply from letters and re . .die s of my own. What was to him of course the great pleasure «-- .-j paradise of a lodging was its bringing him again, though alter a fashion sorrv v^nough, within the circle of home. From this time he used to breakfast "at home," in other words in the Marshalsea; going to it as early as the gates were open, and for the most part much earlier. They had no want of bodily comforts there. His father's income, still going on, was amply suffi- cient for that; and in every respect, indeed but elbow-room, I have heard him say the family lived more comfortably in prison than they had done for a long time oat of it. They were waited on still by the maid-of-all-work from Bayham Street, the orphan girl of the Chatham Workhouse, from whose sharp little worldly and also kindly ways he took his first impression of the marchioness in the Old Curi- osity Shop. She too had a lodging in the neighbourhood that she might be early on the scene of her duties; and when Charles met her, as he would do occasionally, in his lounging-place by London Bridge, he would occupy the time before the gates opened by telling her quite astonishing fictions about the wharves and the tower. "But I hope I believed them myself," he would say. Besides breakfast, he had supper also in the prison; and got to' his lodgino' , generally at nine er once) 1 Harry, Charles' we were ntertain eadings, >se onre, b Fagin lopeless, >nvinced 'ise than off from '^ork was :hought, nth my that his te right, t. It was rhaps it )und for it Street ;rwards. he floor, xd; and ; was a ficult to I to him was its thin the me," in tes were f bodily ly suffi- I have an they [ by the of the ) kindly Id Curi- e might r, as he dgc, he jr quite hope I he had at nine The Life of Charles Dickens 335 o'clock. The gatco closed always at ten. I must not omit what he told me of the landlord of this little lodg- ing. He was a fat, good-natured, kind old gentleman. He was lame, and had a quiet old wife; and he had a very innocent grown-up son, who was lame, too. They were all very kind to the boy. He was taken with one of his old attacks of spasm one night, and the whole three of them were about his bed lintil morning. They were all dead when he told me this, but in another form they live still very pleasantly as the Garland family in the Old Curiosity Shop. He had a similar illness one day in the warehouse, which I can describe in his own words, "Bob Fagin was very good to me on the occasion of a bad attack of my old disorder. I suffered such excrucia- ting pain that time, that they made a temporary bed of straw in my old recess in the counting-house, and I rolled about on the floor, and Bob filled empty blacking-bottles with hot water, and applied relays of them to my side, half the day. I got better, and quite easy towards evening; but Bob (who was much bigger and older than I) did not like the idea of my going home alone, and took me under his protec- tion. I was too proud to let him know about the prison; and after making several efforts to get rid of him, to all of which Bob Fagin n his goodness was deaf, shook hands with him on the steps of a house near Southwark Bridge on the Surrey side, making believe that I lived there. As a finishing piece of reality in case of his looking back, I knocked at the door, I recollect, and asked, when the woman opened it, if that was Mr. Robert Fagin's house." The Saturday nights continued, as before, to be precious to him. "My usual way home was over Blackfriars Bridge, and down that turning in the Blackfriars Road which has Rowland Hill's chapel on one side, and the likeness of a golden dog licking a golden pot over a shop door on the other. There are a good many little low-browed old shops in that street, of a wretched kind; and some are unchanged now. I looked into one a few weeks ago, where I used to buy boot- laces on Saturday nights, and saw the corner where I once sat down on a stool to have a pair of ready-made half -boots fitted on. I have been seduced more than once, in that street on a Saturday night, by a sho^;^'-van at a corner; and have gone in, with a very motley assemblage, to see the Fat Pig, the Wild Indian, and the Little Lady, There were two or three hat-manufactories there, then (I think they are there still); and among the things which, encountered anywhere, or under any circumstances, will instantly recall that time, is the smell of hat-making." His father's attempts to avoid going through the court having failed, all needful ceremonies had to be undertaken to obtain the benefit of the Insolvent Debtors' Act; and in one of these little Charles had his part to play. One condition o." the statute was that the Wftarinp' annnrpl pnrl -nfrGnnnl ma+'-*>rc rofoirior! %trafo. nn*- 4-^ ^^^^^j twenty pounds sterling in value. "It was necessary, as a matter of form, that the clothes I wore should be seen by the official appraiser. iJi «..; 336 The Life of Charles Dickens V i. 1 I had a half-holiday to enable me to call upon him, at his own time at a house somewhere beyond the Obelisk. I recollect his coming out to look at me with his mouth full, and a strong smell of beer upon him and saymg good-naturedly that 'that would do.' and 'it was all right.' Certainly the hardest creditor would not have been disposed (even if he had been legally entitled) to avail himself of my poor white hat httle jacket, or corduroy trowsers. But I had a fat old silver watch in my pocket, which had been given me by my grandmother before the blackmg days, and I had entertained my doubts as I went along whether that valuable possession might not bring me over the twenty pounds. So I was greatly relieved, and made him a bow of acknowledgment as I went out." Still the want felt most by him was the companionship of ooys of his own age. He had no such acquaintance. Sometimes, he remembered to have played on the coal-barges at dinner-time with Poll Green and Bob Fagm; but those were rare occasions. He generally strolled alone about the back streets of the Adelphi; or explored the Adelphi Arches. One of his favourite localities was a little public-house by the water-side called the "Fox-under-the-HiU," approached by an underground passage which we once missed in looking for it together- and he had a vision which he has mentioned in Copperfield of sitting eating something on a bench outside, one fine evening, and looking at some coal-heavers dancing before the house. "I wonder what they thought of me." says David. He had himself already said the same in his fragment of autobiography. Another characteristic little incident he made afterwards one of David's experiences, but I am able to give it here without the disguises that adapt it to the fiction. "I was such a little fellow with my poor white hat. little jacket, and corduroy trowsers,' that frequently, when I went into the bar of a strange public-house for a glass of ale or porter to wash down the saveloy and the loaf I had eaten m the street, they didn't like to give it me. I remember one evening (I had been somewhere for my father, and was going back to the Borough over Westminster Bridge), that I went into a public- house m Parhameiit Street, which is still there though altered at the corner of the short street leading into Cannon Row, and said to the landlord behind the bar, 'What is your very best— the very best— a.e, a glass?' For. the occasion was a festive one. for some reason- I forget why. It may have been my birthday, or somebody else's Twopence,' says he. 'Then,' says I, 'just draw me a glass of that if you please, with a good head to it.' The landlord looked at me in return, over the bar. from head to foot, with a strange smile on 'his face; and instead of drawing the beer, looked round the screen and said something to his wife, who came out from behind it, with her work m her hand, and joined him in surveying me. Here we stand all three, before me now, in my study in Devonshire Terrace. The ianaiora, m nis shirt-sleeves, leaning against the bar window-frame- bis wife, looking over the little half-door; and I, in some confusion' wn time, ming out pon him, dl right.' ed (even hite hat, watch in sfore the nt along )ver the I bow of • Doys of embered reen and ;d alone, Adelphi ouse by d by an ogether; f sitting looking lat they same in J one of out the •w, with :s, that ise for a if I had Der, one ig back public- i, at the 1 to the { best — reason: ' else's, that, if me, in > on his en and ith her stand, :e. The -frame; [fusion, The Life of Charles Dickens 337 looking up at them from outside the partition. They asked me a good many questions, as what my name was, how old I was, where I lived, how I was employed, etc. To all of which, that I might commit no- body, I invented appropriate answers. They served me with the ale, though I suspect it was not the strongest on the premises; and the landlord's wife, opening the little half-door and bending down, gave me a kiss that was half-admiring and half-compassionate, but all womanly and good, I am sure." A later, and not less characteristic, occurrence of the true story of this time found also a place, three or four years after it was written, in his now famous fiction. It preceded but by a short term the dis- charge, from the Marshalsea, of the elder Dickens; to whom a rather considerable legacy from a relative had accrued not long before ("sonie hundreds," I understood), and had been paid into court during his imprisonment. The scene to be described arose on the occasion of a petition drawn up by him before he left, praying, not for the abolition of imprisonment for debt, as David Copperfield relates, but for the less dignified but more accessible boon of a bounty to the prisoners to drink His Majesty's health on His Majesty's forthcoming birthday. ' ' I mention the circumstance because it illustrates, to me, my early interest in observing people. When I went to the Marshalsea of a night, I was always delighted to hear from my mother what she knew about the histories of the different debtors in the prison; and when I heard of this approaching ceremony, I was so anxious to see them all come in, one after another (though I knew the greater part of them already, to speak to, and they me), that I got leave of absence on purpose, and established myself in a corner, near the petition. It was stretched out, I recollect, on a great ironing-board, under the window, which in another part of the room made a bedstead at night. The internal regulations of the place, for cleanliness and order, and for the government of a common room in the ale-house, where hot water and some means of cooking, and a good fire, were provided for all who paid a very small subscription, were excellently administered by a governing committee of debtors, of which my father was chair- man for the time being. As many of the principal officers of this body as could be got into the small room without filling it up supported him, in front of the petition; and my old friend Captain Porter (who had washed himself, to do honour to so solemn an occasion) stationed himself close to it, to read it to all who were unacquainted with its contents. The door was then thrown open, and they began to come in, in a long file; several waiting on the landing outside, while one entered, affixed his signature, and went out. To everybody in succes- sion Captain Porter said, 'Would you like to hear it read?' If he weakly showed the least disposition to hear it, Captain Porter, in a 1„ ^1 :__ 1 • __ 1 r ■ , -r . . . tit ill. vvvaV rr \j± ■iU Kjl iL. i iCiliCiiiUCl U. UCl lUill luscious roll he gave to such words as 'Majesty — gracious Majesty your gracious Majesty's unfortunate subjects — your Majesty's well- * Ji m ^ 1! If! 3?k ; 5 \ . 1 It • ft^ 338 The Life of Charles Dickens known munificence'— as if the words were something real in his n uth, and delicious to taste: my poor father meanwhile listening with a httle of an author's vanity, and contemplating (not severelyT the spikes on the opposite wall. Whatever was comical in this scene and whatever was pathetic, I sincerely believe I perceived in my corner, whether I demonstrated or not, quite as well as I should perceive it now. I made out my own little character and story for every man who put his name to the sheet of paper. I might be able to do that now. more truly: not more earnestly, or with a closer interest. Their different peculiarities of dress, of face, of gait, of manner, were written indelibly upon my memory. I would rather have seen it than the best play ever played; and I thought about it afterwards, over the pots of paste-blacking, often and often. When I looked, with my mind's eye, into the Fleet Prison during Mr Pickwick's incarceration, I wonder whether half a dozen men were wanting from the Marshalsea crowd that came filing in again to the sound of Captain Porter's voice ! " When the family left the Marshalsea they all went to lodge with the lady in Little College Street, a Mrs. Roylance, who has obtained unexpected immortality as Mrs. Pipchin; and they afterwards occupied a small house in Somers Town. But, before this time Charles was present with some of them in Tenterden Street to see his sister Fanny receive one of the prizes given to the pupils of the Royal Academy of Music. "I could not bear to think of myself— beyona the reach of all such honourable emulation and success. The tears ran down my face. I felt as if my heart were rent. I prayed, when I went to bed that night, to be lifted out of the humiliation and neglect in which I was. I never had suffered so much before. There was no envy in this." There was little need that he should say so. Extreme enjoy- ment in witnessing the exercise of her talents, the utmost pride m every success obtained by them, he manifested always to a degree otherwise quite unusual with him; and on the day of her funeral which we passed together, I had most affecting proof of his tender and grateful memory of her in these childish days. A few more sentences, certainly not less touching than any that have gone before will bring the story of them to its close. They stand here exactly as written by him. ^ "I am not sure that it was before this time, or after it, that the blacking warehouse was removed to Chandos Street, Covent Garden It IS no matter. Next to the shop at the corner of Bedford Street in Chandos Street, are two rather old-fashioned houses and shops adjoining one another. They were one then, or thrown into one for the blacking business; and had been a butter shop. Opposite to them was, and is, a public-house, where I got my ale, under these new circumstances. The stones in the street may be smoothed by my small feet going across to it at dinner-time, and back acain. THr PstabH«h- ment was larger now, and we had one or two new boys. Bob Fagin and I had attained to great dexterity in tying up the pots. I forget The Life of Charles Dickens 339 how many we could do in five minutes. We worked, for the light's sake, near the second window as you come from Bedford Street; and we were so brisk at it, that the people used to stop and look in. Sometimes there would be quite a little crowd there. I saw my father coming in at the door one day when we were very busy, and I wondered how he could bear it. "Now, I generally had my dinner in the warehouse. Sometimes I brought it from home, so I was better off. I see myself coming across Russell Square from Somers Town, one morning, with some cold hotch-potch in a small basin tied up in a handkerchief. I had the same wanderings about the streets as I used to have, and was just as solitary and self-dependent as before; but I had not the same difficulty in merely living. I never, however, heard a word of being taken away, or of being otherwise than quite provided for. "At last, one day, my father and the relative so often mentioned quarrelled; quarrelled by letter, for I took the letter from my father to him which caused the explosion, but quarrelled very fiercely. It was about me. It may have had some backward reference, in part, for anything I know, to my employment at the window. All I am certain of is that, soon after I had given him the letter, my cousin (he was a sort of cousin, by marriage) told me he was very much insulted about me; and that it was impossible to keep me, after that. I cried very much, partly because it was so sudden, and partly because in his anger he was violent about my father, though gentle to me. Thomas, the old soldier, comforted me, and said he was sure it was for the best. With a relief so strange that it was like oppression, I went home. "My mother set herself to accommodate the quarrel, and did so next day. She brought home a request for me to return next morning, and a high character of me, which I am very sure I deserved. My father said I should go back no more, and should go to school. I do not write resentfully or angrily: for I know how all these things have worked together to make me what I am: but I never afterwards forgot, I never shall forget, I never can forget, that my mother was warm for my being sent back. "From that hour until this at which I write, no word of that part of my childhood which I have now gladly brought to a close, has passed my lips to any human being. I have no idea how long it lasted; whether for a year, or much more, or less. From that hour, until this, my father and my mother have been stricken dumb upon it. I have never heard the least allusion to it, however far off and remote, from either of them. I have never, until I now impart it to this paper, in any burst of confidence with anyone, my own wife not excepted, raised the curtain I then dropped, thank God. "Until old Hungerford Market was pulled down, until old Hunger- ford Stairs were destroyed, and the very nature of the ground changed, I never had the courage to go back to the place where my servitude began. I never saw it. 7 could not endure to go near it. For many I III 5 ; III 340 The Life of Charles Dickens f years, when I came near to Robert Warrens' in the Strand, I crossed over to the opposite side of the way, to avoid a certain smell of the cement they put upon the blacking-corks, which reminded me of what I was once. It was a very long time before I liked to go up Chandos Street. My old way home by the Borough made me cry, after my eldest child rould speak. "In my walks at night I have walked there often, since then, and by degrees I have come to write this. It does not seem a tithe of what I might have written, or of what I meant to write." The substance of some after-talk explanatory of points in the narrative, of which a note was made at the time, may be briefly added. He could hardly have been more than twelve years old when he left the place, and was still unusually small for his age; much smaller, though two years older, than his own eldest son was at the time of these confidences. His mother had been in the blacking warehouse many times; his father not more than once or twice. The rivalry of Robert Warren by Jonathan's representatives, the cousins George and James, was carried to wonderful extremes in the way of advertisement; and they were all very proud, he told me, of the cat scratching the boot, which was their house's device. The poets in the house's regular employ he remembered, too, and made his first study from ohe of them for the poet of Mrs Jarley's waxwork. The whole enterprise, however, had the usual end of such things. The younger cousin tired of the concern; and a Mr. Wood, the pro- prietor who took James's share and became George's partner, sold it ultimately to Robert Warren. It continued to be his at the time Dickens and myself last spoke of it together, and he had made an excellent bargain of it. si -^ r ? f lift liii III SCHOOL-DAYS AND START IN LIFE 1824-30 In what way those strange experiences of his boyhood affected him afterwards, the narrative of his life must show: but there were influences that made themselves felt even on his way to manhood. What at once he brought out of the humiliation that had impressed him so deeply, though scarcely as yet quite consciously, was a natural dread of the hardships that might still be in store for him, sharpened by what he had gone through; and this, though in its effect for the present imperfectly understood, became by degrees a passiOx...te circumstances were conspiring to make him. All that was involved in The Life of Charles Dickens ,te 341 what he had suffered and sunk into could not have been known to him at the time; but it was plain enough later, as we see; and in conversation with me after the revelation was made, he used to find, at extreme points in his life, the explanation of himself in those early- trials. He had derived great good from them, but not without alloy. The fixed and eager determination, the restless and resistless energy, which opened to him opportunities of escape from many mean environments, not by turning off from any path of duty, but by resolutely rising to such excellence or distinction as might be attain- able in it, brought with it some disadvantage among many noble advantages. Of this he was himself av/2re, but not to the full extent. What it was that in society made him often uneasy, shrinking, and over-sensitive, he knew; but all the danger he ran in bearing down and over-mastering the feeling, he did not know. A too great con- fidence in himself, a sense that everything was possible to the will that would make it so, laid occasionally upon him self-imposed burdens greater than might be borne by anyone with sp 'cty. In that direction there was in him, at such times, something . en hard and aggressive; in his determinations a something that had almost the tone of fierceness; something in his nature that made his resolves insuperable, however hasty the opinions on which the^-- had been formed. So rare were these manifestations, however, and so little did they prejudice a character as entirely open and generous as it was at all times ardent and impetuous, that only very infrequently, towards the close of the middle term of a friendship which lasted without the interruption of a day for more than three and thirty years, were they ever unfavourably presented to me. But there they were; and v.'hen I have seen strangely present, at such chance intervals, a stern and even cold isolation of self-reliance side by side with a susceptivity almost feminine and the most eager craving for sympathy, it has seemed to me as though his habitual impulses for everything kind and gentle had sunk, for the time, under a sudden hard and inexorable sense of what Fate had dealt to him in those early years. On more than one occasion indeed I had confirmation of this. "I must entreat you," he wrote to me in June 1862, "to pause for an instant, and go back to what you know of my childish days, and to ask yourself whether it is natural that something of the character formed in me then, and lost under happier circumstances, should have reappeared in the last five years. The never-to-be-forgotten misery of that old time bred a certain shrinking sensitiveness in a certain ill-clad, ill-fed child, that I have found come back in the never-to-be-forgotten misery of this later time." One good there was, however, altogether without drawback, and which claims simply to be mentioned before my narrative is resumed. The story of his childish misery has itself sufficiently shown that he never throuofhout it lost his ■nrooirvnc gift of animal spirits, or 1113 native capacity for humorous enjoyment; and there were positive gains to him from what he underwent which were also rich and last- 342 The Life of Charles Dickens I ;r ing. To what in the outset of his difficulties and trials gave the decisive bent to his genius. I have already made special reference; and we are to observe, of what followed, that with the very poor and unprosperous. out of whose sufferings and strugglings, and the virtues as well as vices born of them, his not least splendid successes were wrought, his childish experiences had made him actually one. They were not his clients whose cause he pleaded with such pathos and humour, and on whose side he got the laughter and tears of all the world, but in some sort his very self. Nor was it a small part of this manifest advantage that he should have obtained his experience as a child and not as a man; that only the good part, the flower and fruit of it, was plucked by him; and that nothing of the evil part, none of the earth in which the seed was planted, remained to soil him. His next move in life can also be given in his own language. "There was a school in the Hampstead Road kept by Mr. Jones, a Welshman, to which my father dispatched me to ask for a card of terms. The boys were at dinner, and Mr. Jones was carving for them, with a pair of holland sleeves on, when I acquitted myself of this commission. He came out, and gave me what I wanted; and hoped I should become a, pupil. I did. At seven o'clock one morning, very soon afterwards, I went as day scholar to Mr. Jones's establishment, which was in Momington Place, and had its school-room sliced away by the Birmingham Railway, when that change came about. The school-room however was not threatened by directors or civil engin- eers then, aii^ there was a board over the door graced with the words Wellington House Academy." At Wellington House Academy he remained nearly two years, being a little over fourteen years of age when he quitted it. In his minor writings, as well as in Copperfield, will be found general allusions to it, and there is a paper among his pieces reprinted from Household Words which purports specifically to describe it. To the account therein given of himself when he went to the school, as advanced enough, so safely had his memory retained its poor frag- ments of early schooling, to be put into Virgil, as getting sundry prizes, and as attaining to the eminent position of its first boy, one of his two schoolfellows with whom I have had communication, makes objection; but both admit that the general features of the place are reproduced with wonderful accuracy, and more especially m those points for which the school appears to have been much more notable than for anything connected with the scholarship of its pupils. In the reprinted piece Dickens describes it as remarkable for white mice. He says that red-polls, linnets, and even canaries, were kept by the boys m desks, drawers, hat-boxes, and other strange refuges for birds; but that white mice were the favourite stock, and that the Doys trained the mice much better than the master trained the boys. He recalled in particular one white mouse who lived in the cover of ill The Life of Charles Dickens 343 a Latm dictionary, ran up ladders, drew Roman chariots, shouldered muskets, turned wheels, and even made a very creditable appearance on the stage as the Dog of Montargis, who might have achieved greater things but for having had the misfortune to mistake his way in a triumphal procession to the Capitol, when he fell into a deep inkstand, and was dyed black and drowned. Nevertheless, he mentions the school as one also of some celebrity m Its neighbourhood, though nobody could have said why; and adds that among the boys the master was supposed to know nothing, and one of the ushers was supposed to know everything. "We are still inclined to think the first named supposition perfectly correct We went to look at the place only this last midsummer, and found that the railway had cut it up, root and branch. A great trunk line had a swallowed the playground, sliced away the school-room, and pared I off the corner of the house. Which, thus curtailed of its proportions presented itself in a green stage of stucco, profile-wise towards the road, like a forlorn fiat-iron without a handle standing on end." ° One who knew him in those early days, Mr. Owen P Thomas thus writes to me (February 1871): "I had the honour of being Mr. Dickens's schoolfellow for about two years (1824-6). both being day-scholars at Mr. Jones's 'Classical and Commercial Academy ' I as then inscribed in front of the house. ... My recollection of Dickens whilst at school is that of a healthy-looking boy, small but well-built, with a more than usual flow of spirits, inducing to harmless fun, seldom or ever I think to mischief, to which so many lads at that age are prone. I cannot recall anything that then indicated he would hereafter become a literary celebrity; but perhaps he was too young then. He usually held his head more erect than lads ordinarily do, and there was a general smartness about him. His week-day dress of jacket and trousers, I can clearly remember, was what is called pepper-and-salt; and instead of the frill that most boys cf his age wore then, he had a turn-down collar, so that he looked less youthful in consequence. He invented what we termed a ' lingo,' produced by the addition of a few letters of the same sound to every word- and It was our ambition, walking and talking thus along the street, to be considered foreigners. As an alternate amusement, the present writer well remembers extemporising tales of some sort, and reciting them offhand, with Dickens and Danson or Tobin walking on either side of him. ..." To Mr. Thomas's letter the reader will thank me for adding one not less interesting, with which Dr. Henry Danson has favoured me. We have here, with the same fun and animal spirits, a little of the proneness to mischief which his other schoolfellow says he was free from; but the mischief is all of the harmless kind, and might perhaps have been better described as but part of an irrepressible vi\ 'My impression is that I was a schoolfellow of Dickens for nearly Is ; S — * : 344 The Life of Charles Dickens II f two years: he left before me, I think at about fifteen years of age. Mr. Jones's school, called the Wellington Academy, was in the Hampstead Road, at the north-east corner of Granby Street, The school-home was afterwards removed for the London and North- western Railway. It was considered at the time a very superior sort of school, one of the best, indeed, in that part of London; but it was most shamefully mismanaged, and the boys made but very little progress. The proprietor, Mr. Jones, was a Welshman; a most ignorant fellow, and a mere tyrant; whose chief employment was to scourge the boys. Dickens has given a very lively account of this place in his paper entitled 'Our School,' but it is very mythical in many respects, and more especially in the compliment he pays in it to himself. I do not remember that Dickens distinguished himself in any way, or carried off any prizes. My belief is that he did not learn Greek or Latin there, and you will remember there is no allusion to the classics in any of his writings. He was a handsome, curly-headed lad, full of animation and animal spirits, and probably was connected with every mischievous prank in the school. I do not think he came in for any of Mr. Jones's scourging propensity; in fact, together with myself, he was only a day-pupil, and with these there was a whole- some fear of tales being carried home to the parents. His personal appearance at that time is vividly brought home to me in the portrait of him taken a few years later by Mr. Lawrence. He resided with his friends in a very small house in a street leading out of Seymour Street, n(?rth of Mr. Judkin's chapel. "Depend on it he was quite a self-made man, and his wonderful knowledge and command of the English language must have been acquured by long and patient study after lea ing his last school. "I have no recollection of the boy you name. His chief associates were, I think, Tobin. Mr. Thomas Bray, and myself. The first-named was his chief ally, and his acquaintance with him appears to have continued many years afterwards. At about that time penny and Saturday magazines were published vveekly, and were greedily read by us. We kept bees, white mice, and other living things clandestinely in our desks; and the mechanical arts were a good deal cultivated, in the shape of coach-building, and making pumps and boats, the motive power of which was the white mice. "I think at that time Dickens took to writing small tales, and we had a sort of club for lending and circulating them. Dickens was also very strong in using a sort of lingo, which made us quite unintelligible to bystanders. We were very strong, too, in theatricals. We mounted small theatres, and got up very gorgeous scenery to illustrate the Miller and his Men and Cherry and Fair Star. I remember the present Mr. Beverley, the scene-painter, assisted us in this. Dickens was always a leader at these plays, which were occasionally presented with much solemnity before an audience of boys, and in the presence of the ushers. My brother, assisted by Dickens, got up the Miller and his Men, in a very gorgeous form. Master Beverley constructed The Life of Charles Dickens 345 the mill for us in such a way that it could tumble to pieces with the assistance of crackers. At one representation the fireworks in the last scene, ending with the destruction of the mill, were so very real that the police interfered, and knocked violently at the doors. Dickens's after-taste for theatricals might have had its origin in these small affairs. ' ' I quite remember Dickens on one occasion heading us in Drum- mond Street in pretending to be poor boys, and asking the passers-by for charity — especially old ladies; one of whom told us she 'had no money for beggar boys.' On these adventures, when the old ladies were quite staggered by the impudence of the demand, Dickens would explode with laughter and take to his heels. ' ' I met him one Sunday morning shortly after he left the school, and we very piously attended the morning service at Seymour Street chapel. I am sorry to say Master Dickens did not attend in the slightest degree to the service, but incited me to laughter by declaring his dinner was ready and the potatoes would be spoiled, and in fact behaved in such a manner that it was lucky for us we were not ejected from the chapel. "I heard of him some time after from Tobin, whom 1 met carrying a foaming pot of London particular in Lincoln's Inn Fields, and I then understood that Dickens was in the same or some neighbouring office. . . ." Dickens had not quitted school many months before his father had made sufficient interest with an attorney of Gray's Inn, Mr. Edward Blackmore, to obtain him regular employment in his office. In this capacity of clerk, our only trustworthy glimpse of him we owe to the last-named gentleman, who has described briefly, and I do not doubt authentically, the services so rendered by him to the law. It cannot be said that they were noteworthy, though it might be difficult to find a more distinguished person who has borne the title, unless we make exception for the very father of literature himself, whom Chaucer, with amusing illustration of the way in which words change their meanings, calls "that conceited clerke Homdre." "I was well acquainted," writes Mr. Edward Blackmore of Aires- ford, "with his parents, and, being then in practice in Gray's Inn, they asked me if I could find employment for him. He was a bright, clever-looking youth, and I took him as a clerk. He came to me in May 1827, and left in November 1828; and I have now an account- book which he used to keep of petty disbursements in the office, in which he charged himself with the modest salary first of thirteen shillings and sixpence, and afterwards of fifteen shillings a week. Several incidents took place in the office of which he must have been a keen observer, as I recognised some of them in his Pickwick and Nickleby; and I am much mistaken if some of his characters had not their ori"ir..^.lfi in 'oersons I well remember. His taste for theatricals was much promoted by a feliow-clerk named Potter, since dead, with whom he chiefly associated. They took every opportunity, I f 11 ( >s 346 The Life of Charles Dickens then unknown to me. of going together to a minor theatre, where (I afterwards heard) they not unfrequently engaged in parts. After he left me I saw him at times in the lord chancellor's court, taking notes of cases as a reporter. I then lost sight of him until his Pickwick made its appearance." This letter indicates the position he held at Mr. Blackmore's; and we have but to turn to the passage in Pickwick which describes the several grades of attorney's clerk, to understand It more clearly. He was very far below the articled clerk, who has paid a premium and is attorney in perspective. He w£.s not so high as the salaried clerk, with nearly the whole of his weekly thirty shillings spent on his personal pleasures. He was not even on a level with the middle-aged copying clerk, always needy and uniformly shabby. He was simply among, however his own nature may have lifted him above, the "office-lads in their first surtouts. who feel a befitting con- tempt for boys at day-schools, club as they go home at night for saveloys and porter, and think there's nothing like life." Thus far not more or less, had he now reached. He was one of the office-lads' and probably in his first surtout. But. even thus, the process of education went on, defying what seemed to interrupt it; and in the amount of his present equipment for his needs of life, what he brought from the Wellington House Academy can have borne but the smallest proportion to his acquire- ment at Mr. Blackmore's. Yet to seek to identify, without help from himself, any passages in his books with those boyish law-experiences would be idle and hopeless enough. In the earliest of his writings' and down to the very latest, he worked exhaustively the field which is opened by an attorney's office to a student of life and manners- but we have not now to deal with his numerous varieties of the genus clerk drawn thus for the amusement of others, but with the acquisi- tions which at present he was storing up for himself from the oppor- tunities such offices opened to him. Nor would it be possible to have better illustrative comment on all these years than is furnished by his father's reply to a friend it was now hoped to interest on his behalf, which more than once I have heard him whimsically but good-humouredly imitate. "Pray. Mr. Dickens, where was your son educated.?" "Why, indeed. Sir— haf ha!— he may be said to have educated himself!" Of the two kinds of education which Gibbon says that all men who rise above the common level receive: the first that of his teachers, and the second, more personal and more important his own- he had the advantage only of the last. It nevertheless sufficed for him. Very nearly another v,ighteen months were now to be spent mainly m practical preparation for what he was, at this time, led finally to choose as an employment from which a fair income was certain with such talents as he possessed; his father already having taken to it m these latter years, in aid of the family resources. In his father's huuoc, which was at Hampstead through the first portion of the Momington Street school-time, then in the house ont of Seymour The Life of Charles Dickens 347 Street mentioned by Mr. Danson, and afterwards, upon the elder Dickens going into the gallery as a reporter for the Morning Herald, in Bentinck Street, Manchester Square, CharLj had continued to live: and, influenced doubtless by the example before him, he took sudden determination to qualify himself thoroughly for what his father was lately become, a newspaper parliamentary reporter. He set resolutely therefore to the study of shorthand; and, for the addi- tional help of such general information about books as a fairly educated youth might be expected to have, as well as to satisfy some higher personal cravings, he became an assiduous attendant in the British Museum reading-room. He would frequently refer to these days as decidedly the usefullest to himself he had ever passed; and judging from the results they must have been so. No man who knew him in later years, and talked to him familiarly of books and things, would have suspected his education in boyhood, almost entirely self-acquired as it was, to have been so rambling or hap- hazard as I have here described i<;. The secret consisted in this, thai whatever for the lime he had to do, he lifted himself, there and then , to the level of, and at no time disregarded the rules that guided the hero of his novel: "Whatever I have tr'^^d to do in life, I have tried with all my heart to do well. What I iiaVv' devoted myself to, I have devoted myself to complo^ely. Never t' put one hand to anything on which I could throw ^ y whole self, aud never to affect deprecia- tion of my work, whatever it w^as, I find now to have been my golden rules." Of the difficulties that beset his shorthand studies, as well as of what first turned his mind to them, he has told also something in Copperfield. He had heard that many men distinguished in variou'^. pursuits had begun life by reporting the debates in parliamer-^ and he was not deterred by a friend's w^arning that the mere mec^.aaical accompl'«>>ment for excellence in it might take a 'ew y^ars to master thoroughly: "a perfect and entire command of the m>sl' ry of short- hand writing and reading being about equal in difficulty to the mastery of six languages." Undaunted, he plunged into it. ^.elf- teaching in this as in graver things; and, having bought Mr. Gurney's half-guinea book, worked steadily his way through its distractions. "The changes that were rung upon dots, which in such a position meant such a thing, and in such another position something else entirely different; the wonderful vagaries that were played by circles: the unaccountable consequences that resulted from marks like flies' legs; the tremendous effects of a curve in a wrong place, not only troubled my waking hours, but reappeared before me in my sleep. When I had groped my way, blindly, through these difficulties, and had mastered the alphabet, there then appeared a procession of new horrors, called arbitrary characters; the most despotic characters I have ever known; who insistea, for instance, that a thing like the \ rfl "cgii g ui .3. -cuuvvcL? iiicuiii. c;ipci;uiuuii, una lli'dX a p^n-ana-iuK sky-rocket stood for 'disadvantageous.' When I had fixed these 'i^^-i 348 The Life of Charles Dickens ft f "1 ■ ^ wretches in my mind, I found that they had driven everything else out of It; then, beginning again, I forgot them; while I was picking them up, I dropped the other fragments of the system- in short it was almost heart-breaking." What it was that made it not quite heart-breaking to the hero of the fiction, its readers know; and something of the same kind was now to enter into the actual experience of its writer. First let me sav however, that after subduing to his wants in marvellously quick time this unruly and unaccommodating servant of stenograpbv what he most desired was still not open to him. "There never was such a shorthand- writer," has been often said to me by Mr Beard the friend he first made in that line when he entered the gallerv and with whom to the close of his life he maintained the friendliest'inter- course. But there was no opening for him in the gallery yet He hat to pass nearly two years as a reporter for one of the ofnces in Doctors' Commons, having made attempt even in the direction of the stac- to escape such drudgery, before he became a sharer in parliamentary toils and triumphs; and what sustained his young hero throutjh something of the same sort of trial was also his own support He too had his Dora, at apparently the same hopeless elevation- striven for as the one only thing to be attained, and even more unattainable for neither did he succeed nor happily did she die; but the one idol 'like the other, supplying a motive to exertion for the time, and otherwise opening out to the idolater, both in fact and fiction, a highly unsub- stantial, happy, foolish time. I used to laugh and tell him I had no belief m any but the book Dora, until the incident of a sudden re- appearance of the real one in his life, nearly six years after Copperfield was written, convinced me there had been a more actual foundation for thos'^ chapters of his book than I was ready to suppose Still I would hardly admit it; and, that the matter could possibly affect him then persisted in a stout refusal to believe. His reply (1855) throws a little light on this juvenile part of his career, and I therefore venture to preserve it. "I don't quite apprehend what you mean by my over-rating the strength of the feeling of five-and-twenty years ago. If you mean of my own feeling, and will only think what the desperate intensity of my nature is. and that this began when I was Charley's age- that it excluded every other idea froai my mind for four years, at a time of life when four years are equal to four times four; and that I went at It with a determination to overcome all the ditficulties, which fairly lifted me up into that newspaper life, and floated me away over a hundred mens heads: then you are wrong, because nothing can exaggerate that. I have positively stood amazed at myself ever since!— And so I suffered, and so worked, and so beat and hammered away at the maddest romances that ever got .xto any boy's head and stayed there, that to see the mere cause of it all, nowf loosens my hold upon myself. Without for a moment sincerely believing th«t it wouia nave been better if we had never got separated, I cannot The Life of Charles Dickens 349 see the occasion of so much emotion as I should see anyone else No one can imagme in the most distant degree what pain the recollection gave me m Copperfield. And, just as I can never open that book as I open any other book, I cannot see the face (even at four-and-forty) or hear the voice, without going wandering away over the ashes of a 1 tha. youth and hope in the wildest manner." More and more p ainly seen, however, in the light of four-and-forty. the romance glided visibly away, its work being fairly done; and. at the close of the month following that in which this letter was written, during "^ ?u. f i^^ ""^'"y quietly made a formal call with his wife at his youthful Dora's house, and contemplated with a calm equanimity in the hall, her stuffed favourite Jip, he began the Tction in which there was a Flora to set against its predecessor's Dora, both derived from the same original. The fancy had a comic humour in it he found f !";^P?sf ble to resist, but it was kindly and pleasant to the last- and If the later picture showed him plenty to laugh at in this retrospect of his youth, there was nothing he thought of more tenderly than tne earlier, a^. long as he was conscious of anything. IV NEWSPAPER REPORTING AND WRITING I 83 1-5 Dickens was nineteen years old when at last he entered the gallery His father, with whom he still lived in Bentinck Street, had already as we have seen, joined the gallery as a reporter for one of the morning papers, and was now in the more comfortable circumstances derived from the addition to his official pension which this praise- worthy labour ensured; but his own engagement on the Chronicle dates somewhat later. His first parliamentary service was given to tlie i rue Sun, a journal which had on its editorial staff some dear friends of mine, through whom I became myself a contributor to it and afterwards, in common with all concerned, whether in its writing, reporting, printing or publishing, a sharer in its difficulties Ihe most formidable of ,hese arrived one day in a general strike of the reporters; and I well remember noticing at this dread time on tlie staircase of the magnificent mansion we were lodged in a young man of my own age whose keen animation of look would have arrested attention anywhere, and whose name, upon inquiry I then lor the first time heard. It was coupled with the fact w.uch gave it interest even then, that "young Dickens" had been spokesman for the recalcitrant reporters, and conducted their case triumphantly. -.Hi 350 The Life of Charles Dickens He was afterwards during two sessions engaged for the Mirror of Parliament, which one of his uncles by the mother's side originated and conducted; and finally, in his twenty-third year, he became a reporter for the Morning Chronicle. His attempt, to get upon the stage dates immediately before these newspaper engagements. His Doctors' Commons reportership was a hvmg so wearily uncertain, that a possibility of the other calling had occurred to him in quite a businesslike way. He went to theatres almost every night for a long time; studied and practised himself in parts; was so much attracted by the "At Homes" of the elder Mathews, that he resolved to make his first plunge in a similar direction;^ and finally wrote to make offer of himself to Covent Garden. "I wrote to Bartley, who was stage-manager, and told him how young I was, and exactly what I thought I could do; and that I believed I had a strong perception of character and oddity, and a natural power of reproducing in my own person what I observed in others. This was at the time when I was at Doctors' Commons as a shorthand writer for the proctors. And I recollect I wrote the letter from a little office I had there, where the answer came also. There must have been something in my letter that struck the authorities, for Bartley wrot^ to me almost immediately to say that they were busy getting up the Hunchback (so they were), but that they would communicate with me again, in a fortnight. Punctual to the time another letter came, with an appointment to do anything of Mathews's I pleased before him and Charles Kemble, on a certain day at the theatre. My sister Fanny was in the secret, and was to go with me to play the songs. I was laid up when the day came, with a terrible bad cold and an inflammation of the face; the beginning, by the by of that annoyance in one ear to which I am subject to this day. I wrote to say so, and added that I would resume my application next season. I made a great splash in the gallery soon afterwards- the Chronicle o^emA to me; I had a ^distinction in the little world of the newspaper, which made one like it; began to write; didn't want money; had never thought of the stage but as a means of getting it- gradually lef: off turning my thoughts that way, and never resumed the idea. I never told you this, did I? See how near I may have been to another sort of life." The letter in which he gave me this interesting detail belongs to another place; but the anticipation of so much of it here is required to complete his boyish history. The beginning to write was a thing far more momentous to him (though then he did not know it) than his "great splash" in the gallery In the December number for 1833 of what then was called the Old Monthly Magazine, his first published piece of writing had seen the light. He has described himself dropping this paper ("Mr. Minns and his cousin," as he afterwards entitled it, but which appeared in the magazine as "A Dinner at Poplar Walk") stealthily one evenine at twilififht. with fear and tremblin" * ' - - - - o „ — 1. ._^.. uox in a aarK i'-t office up a dark court in Fleet Street; and he has told his agitation The Life of Charles Dickens 351 '^^'fif i^/PP^^'^^lJ" ^".*^^ S^°^y °^ P""*- "On which occasion I walked down to Westminster Hall, and turned into it for half an hour because my eyes were so dimmed with joy and pride that they could not bear the street, and were not fit to be seen there " He had purchased the magazine at a shop in the Ltrand; and exactly two years afterwards, in the younger member of a publishing firm who had called at his chambers in Furnival's Inn. ::o which he had moved ^P^'l^fV ''^- ^^\S^^^^^, with the proposal that originated fnH K ' t ^^^g^^sed the person he had bought that magazine from, and whom before or since he had never seen. This interval of two years more than comprised what remained of his career m the gallery and the engagements connected with if but that this occupation was of the utmost importance in its influence on tiis lite, m the discipline of his powers as well as of his character there can be no doubt whatever. "To the wholesome training of severe newspaper-work, when I was a very young man. I constantly refer my first successes, he said to the New York editors when he last took leave of them. It opened to him a wide and varied range of experience which his wonderful observation, exact as it was humorous, made entirely his own. He saw the last of the old coaching days, and of the old mns that were a part of them; but it will be long before the readers of his hving page see the last of the life of either "There never was." he once wrote to me (in 1845). "anybody connected with newspapers who. in the same space of time, had so much express and post-chaise experience as I. And wh *: gentlemen thev were to serve, in such things, at the old Morning ^hroniclel Great or small. It did not matter. I have had to charge for half a dozen break- downs in half a dozen times as many miles. I have had to charge for the damage of a great-coat from the drippings of a blazing wax- candle, m writing through the smallest hours of the night in a swift- flying carriage and pair. I have had to charge for all sorts of breakages htty times m a journey without question, such being the ordinary results of the pace which we went at. I have charged for broken hats broken luggage, broken chaises, broken harness -everything but a broken head, which is the only thing they would have grumbled to pay for." ^ Something to the sp.me effect he said publicly twenty years later on the occasion of his presiding, in May 1865, at the second annuai dinner of the Newspaper Press Fund, when he condensed within the compass of his speech a summary of the whole of his reporting life I am not here.' he said, "advocating the case of a mere ordinary client of whom I nave little or no k"owIedge. I hold a brief to-night tor my brothers. I went into the gallery of the House of Comrnons as a parliamentary reporter when I was a boy. and I left vc—I can hardly believe the inexorable truth— nigh thirty years ago. I have pursued the calling of a reporter under circumstances of which many ot my brethren here can form no adequate conception. T havp o^+^n transcribed for the printer, from mV shorthand notes, important •f\i 352 The Life of Charles Dickens ill WW ; public speeches in which the strictest accuracy was required, and a mistake in which would have been to a young man severely com- promising, writing on the palm of my hand, by the light of a dark lantexTi, in a post-chaise and four, galloping through a wild country, and through the dead of the night, at the then surprising rate of fifteen miles an hour. The very last time I was at Exeter, I strolled into the castle-yard there to identify, for the amusement of a friend, the spot on which I once 'took,' as we used to call it, an election speech of Lord John Russell at the Devon contest, in the midst of a lively fight maintained by all the vagabonds in that division of the county, and under such a pelting rain, that I remember two good- natured colleagues who chanced to be at leisure held a pocket- handkerchief over my note-book, after the manner of a state canopy in an ecclesiastical procession. I have worn my knees by writing on them on the old back-row of the old gallery of the old House of Commons; and I have worn my feet by standing to write in a pre- posterous pen in the old House of Lords, where we used to be huddled together like so many sheep — kept in waiting, say, until the Woolsack might want re-stuffing. Returning home from exciting political meetings in the country to the waiting press in London, I do verily believe I have been upset in almost every description of vehicle known in this country. I have been, in my time, belated on miry by- roads, towards the small hours, forty or fifty miles from London, in a wheelless carriage, with exhausted horses and drunken post-boys, and have got back in time for publication, to be received with never- forgotten compliments by the late Mr. Black, coming in the broadest of Scotch from the broadest of hearts I ever knew. These trivial things I mention as an assurance to you that I never have forgotten the fascination of that old pursuit The pleasure that I used to feel in the rapidity and dexterity of its exercise has never faded out of my breast. Whatever little cunning of hand or head I took to it, or acquired in it, I have so retained that I fully believe I could resume it to-morrow, very little the worse from long disuse. To this present year of my life, when I sit in this hall, or where not, hearing a dull speech (the phenomenon does occur), I sometimes beguile the tedium of the moment by mentally following the speaker in the old, old way; and sometimes, if you can believe me, I even find my hand going on the tablecloth, taking an imaginary note of it all." The latter I have known him do frequently. It was indeed a quite ordinary habit with him. Mr. James Grant, a writer who was himself in the gallery with Dickens, and who states that among its eighty or ninety reporters he occupied the very highest rank, not merely for accuracy in reporting, but for marvellous quickness in transcribing, has lately also told us that while there he was exceedingly reserved in his manners, and that, though showing the usual courtesies to all he was concerned with in his duties, the only personal intimacy he formed was with Mr. Thomas Beard, then too reporting for the Morning Chfonicle. I have td, and a ely com- »f a dark country, \ rate of '. strolled a friend, election idst of a m of the vo good- pocket- i canopy riting on louse of n a pre- huddled Woolsack political lo verily vehicle niry by- ion, in a oys, and 1 never- Droadest 3 trivial )rgotten i to feel it of my ;o it, or isume it present g a dull : tedium )ld way; ;oing on r I have bit with Ty with rters he porting, told us srs, and led with ith Mr. , I have The Life of Charles Dickens 353 already mentioned the friendly and familiar relations maintained with this gentleman to the close of his life; and. in confirmation of Mr G, . nt s statement. I can further say that the only other associate of these early reporting days to whom I ever heard him refer with of^RWz'^?Y "^^l?^ l^^^ ^- ^^""^°* ^o^\in^, many years editor inw ^^f ' ^^th whom he did not continue much personal intercourse, but of whose character as well as talents he had formed l^I^ W T""'"''-/^'' i' ^^^""^ anything to add to the notice of this time which the reader's fancy may not easily supply. A letter has been kept as written by him while engaged on one of his "expresses"- but It IS less for its saying anything new. than for its confirming with a pleasant vividness what has been said akeady, that its contents will justify mention here. Jr^^Z■^l^^' S^ ^ "Tuesday morning" in May 1835. from the Bush Inn Bristol; the occasion that has taken him to the west, connected with a reporting party, being Lord John Russell's Devonshire contest above-named and his associate-chief being Mr. Beard, entrusted with command for the Chronicle in this particular express. He expects to forward the conclusion of Russell's dinner" by Cooper's com- pany s coach leaving the Bush at half-past six neit morning; and rJnnJ; o/lh^S'.K^^i^^ °" Thursday morning he will foi-waJd the report of the Bath dmner, endorsing the parcel for immediate delivery, with extra rewards for the porter. Beard is to go^ver to Bath next morning. He is himself to come back by the mail from Marlborough; he has no doubt, if Lord John makes a speech of any ZtT7 .?^"yf f "«• .it can be done by the time Marlborough is reached; and takmg into consideration the immense importance of 5o,Tf^ the addition of saddle-horses from thence, it is, beyond al doubt, worth an effort . . I need not say." he continues. ''that i^ will be sharp work and will require two of us; for we shall both be up the whole ^f the previous night, and shall have to sit up all night agam to get it off in time." He adds that as soon as they have had a httle sleep they will return to town as quickly as they cL; but thev have. If the express succeeds, to stop at sundry places along the road to pay money and notify satisfaction. And so. for himself and Beard he IS his editor's very sincerely. ... ^eara. The °ierition of his career in the gallery may close with the comment that his observation while there had not led him to form any high opinion of the House of Commons or its heroes; and that Tf the Pickwickian sense which so often takes the place of common sense m our legislature, he omitted no opportunity of declaring h^ contempt at every part of his life. ueciarmg ms The other occupation had meanwhile not been lost sight of and t^eMi::n^V ^° ^^'^ ^ ^^**^^- ^^"^^ *^^ fi^^t sketch appeared^n the MontJdy Magazine, nine others have enlivened the pages of later ;;ri^^l°Ll^^^.^"!? ^^^^-^^. the last in February iS.f. and that t"u^e of B'nr''^" '"^ ""^l preceumg August having tirst had the signa: tureotBoz. . . . The magazine was owned as well as conducted at 330 354 The Life of Charles Dickens 11 !' this time by a Mr. Holland, who had come back from * bolivar's South American campaigns with the rank of captain, and had hoped to make it a popular mouthpiece for his ardent liberalism. But this hope, as well as his own health, quite failed; and he havl sorrowfully to decline receiving any more of the sketches when they had to cease as voluntary offerings. I do not think that eithe he ux the magazine lived many weeks after an evening I passed with him in Doughty Street, in 1837, when he spoke in a very touching way of the failure of this and other enterprises of his life, and of the help that Dickens had been to him. Nothing being forthcoming from the Monthly, it was of course but natural that the sketches too should cease to be forthcoming; and, even before the above-named Fe^ ruary number appeared, a new opening had been found for them. An evening oflE-shoot to the Morning Chronicle had been lately in hand; and to a countryman of Black's engaged in the preparations lor it, Mr. George Hogarth, Dickens was communicating from h^ s rooms in Furnival's Inn, on the evening of Tuesday the 20th of January, 1835, certain hopes and fancies he had formed. This was at the beginning of his knowledge of an accomplished and kindly man, with whose family his relations were soon to become so intimate as to have an influence on all his future career. Mr. Hogarth had asked him, as a favour to himself, to write an original sketch for the first number of the enterprise, and in writing back to say with what readiness he should comply, and how anxiously he should desire to do his best for the person who had made the request, he mentioned what had arisen in his mind. It had occurred to him that he might not be unreasonably or improperly trespassing farther on Mr. Hogarth if, trusting to his kindness to refer the application to the proper quarter, he begged to ask whether it was probable, if he commenced a regular series of articles under some attractive title for the Evening Chronicle, its conductors would think he had any claim to some additional remuneration (of course, of no great amount) for doing so. In short, he wished to put it to the proprietors — first, whether a continuation of some chapters of light papers in the style of his street-sketches would be considered of use to the new journal; and secondly, if so, whether they would not think it fair and reasonable that, taking his share of the ordinary reporting business of the Chronicle besides, he should receive something for the papers beyond his ordinary salary as a reporter? The request was thought fair, he began the sketches, and his salary was raised from five to seven guineas a week. They went on, with undiminished spirit and freshness, throughout the year; and much as they were talked of outside as well as in the world of newspapers, nothing in connection with them delighted the writer half so much as the hearty praise of his own editor. Mr. Black is one of the men who have passed without recognition out of a world their labours largely benefited, but with those who knew hirn no xnan was so popular, as well for his broad, kindly humour, as for his honest The life of Charles Dickens 355 great-hearted enjoyment of whatever was excellent in others Dickens to the last remembered, that it was most of all the cordial help of this good old mirth-loving man, which had started him ioy- fully on his career of letters. It was John Black that flung the slipper after me, he would often say, "Dear old Black i mv first hearty out-and-out appreciator," is an expression in one of his letters written to me m the year he died. FIRST BOOK, AND ORIGIN OF "picKWICK" 1836 The opening of 1836 found him collecting into two volumes the first series of Sketches by Boz. of which he had sold the copvrieht for a conditional payment of (I think) a hundred and fitftV pounds to a young publisher named Macrone, whose acquaintance he had made through Mr Amsworth a few weeks before. At this time also, we are told m a letter before quoted, the editorship of the Monthly Magazine having come into Mr. James Grant's hands, this gentleman, applying to him through Its previous editor to know if he would again con- tribute to It. learnt two things: the first that he was going to be married, and the second that, having entered into an arrangement to write a monthly serial, his duties in future would leave him small spare time. Both pieces of news were soon confirmed. The Times of 26 March. 1836. gave notice that on the 31st would be published the first shilhng number of the Posthumous Papers of the Pickwick Club edited by Boz: and the same journal of a few days later announced that on 2 April Mr. Charles Dickens had married Catherine the eldest daughter of Mr. George Hogarth, whom already we have met as his fellow-worker on the Chronicle. The honeymoon was passed in the neighbourhood to which at all times of interest in his life he turned with a strange recurring fondness; and while the young couple are at the quiet little village of Chalk, on the road between Grivesend Mr Pkkwfcr ^ ^''^''^^^ *^^ °"^" ""^ *^^ ever-memorable A new publishing house had started recently, among other enter- prises ingenious rather than important, a Library of Fiction; among t,^ n^'^MY^^ T^^^J° ^""^'^^ ^^ '* ^^^ *^^ ^"te^ of the sketche! m the Monthly: and. to the extent of one paper during the past vear they had effected this through their editor Mr r\.J\^. wu;^.C-i' a very ingenious and a very unfortunate man. "I was not'aw^^r^' wrote the elder member of the firm to Dickens, thirteen years later ;u I 356 The Life of Charles Dickens i! i; If in a letter to which reference was made^ in the preface to Pickwick in one of his later editions, "that you were writing in the Chronicle, or what your name was; but Whitehead, who was an old Monthly man. recollected it, and got you to write 'The Tuggs's at Ramsgate.' " And now comes another person on the scene. "In November 1835 " continues Mr. Chapman, "we published a little book called the Squib Annual, with plates by Seymour; and it was during my visit to him, to see after them, that he said he should like to do a series of cockney sporting-plates of a superior sort to those he had already published. I said I thought they might do, if accompanied by letter- press and published in monthly parts; and this being agreed to, we wrote to the author of Three Courses and a Dessert and proposed it- but receiving no answer, the scheme dropped for some months, tili Seymour said he wished us to decide, as another job had offered which would fully occupy his time; and it was on this we decided to ask you to do it. Having opened already a connection with you for our Library of Fiction, we naturally applied to you to do the Pickwick; but I do not think we even mentioned our intention to Mr. Seymour, and I am quite sure that from the beginning to the end nobody but yourself had anything whatever to do with it. Our prospectus was out at the end of February, and it had all been arranged before that date." The member of the firm who carried the application to him in Furnival's Inn was not the writer of this letter, but Mr. Hall, who had sold him two years before, not knowing that he was the pur- chaser, the magazine in which his first effusion was printed; and he has himself described what passed at the interview. "The idea propounded to me was that the monthly something should be a vehicle for certain plates to be executed by Mr. Seymour; and there was a notion, either on the part of that admirable humorous artist, or of my visitor, that a Nimrod Club, the members of which were to go out shooting, fishing, and so forth, and getting themselves into difficulties through their want of dexterity, would be the best means of introducing these. I objected, on consideration, that although born and partly bred in the country I was no great sportsman, except in regard to all kinds of locomotion; tliat the idea was not novel, and had already been much used; that it would be infinitely better for the plates to arise naturally out of the text; and that I would like to take my own way, with a freer range of English scenes and people, and was afraid I should ultimately do so in any case, whatever course I might prescribe to myself at starting. My views being 1 Not quoted in detail, on that or any other occasion; though referred to It was, however, placed in my hands, for use if occasion should arise, when Dickens went to America in 1867. The letter bears date 7 July, 1849, and was Mr. Chap- man s answer to the question Dickens had asked him, whether the account of the origin of Ptckwtck which he had given in the preface to the cheap edition in iS^y was not strictly correct. "It is so correctly described." was Mr. Chanrnan'c «r,»«5^« remark, "that I can throw but little additional light on it." The name"of"his hero I may add, Dickens took from that of a celebrated coach-proprietor of Bath ' The Life of Charles Dickens 357 deferred to, I thought of Mr. Pickwick, and wrote the first number; from the proof-sheets of which Mr. Seymour made his drawing of the club and his happy portrait of its founder. I connected Mr. Pick.vick with a club, because of the original suggestion; and I put in Mr. Windle expressly for the use of Mr. Seymour." Mr. Hall was dead when this statement was first made, in the preface to the cheap edition in 1847; but Mr. Chapman clearly recol- lected his partner's account of the interview, and confirmed every part of it, in his letter of 1849, with one exception. In giving Mr. Seymour credit for the figure by which all the habitable globe knows Mr. Pickwick, and which certainly at the outset helped to make him a reality, it had given the artist too much. The reader will hardly be so startled as I was on coming to the closing line of Mr. Chapman's confirmatory letter. "As this letter is to be historical, I may as well claim what little belongs to me in the matter, and that is the figure of Pickwick. Seymour's first sketch was of a long, thin man. The present immortal one he made from my description of a friend of mine at Richmond, a fat old beau who would wear, in spite of the ladies' protests, drab tights and black gaiters. His name was John Foster." ... "* The first number had not yet appeared when his Sketches by Boz, Illustrative of Every -day Life and Every-day People, came forth in two duodecimos with some capital cuts by Cruikshank, and with a preface in which he spoke of the nervousness he should have had in venturing alone before the public, and of his delight in getting the help of Cruikshank, who had frequently contributed to the success, though his well-earned reputation rendered it impossible for him ever to have shared the hazard, of similar undertakings. It very soon became apparent that there was no hazard here. The Sketches were much more talked about than the first two or three numbers of Pickwick, and I remember still with what hearty praise the book was first named to me by my dear friend Albany Fonblanque, as keen and clear a judge as ever lived either of books or men. Richly did it merit all the praise it had, and more, I will add, than he was ever disposed to give to it himself. He decidedly underrated it. He gave, in sub- sequent writings, so much more perfect form and fullness to every- thing It contained, that he did not care to credit himself with the marvel of having yet so early anticipated so much. But the first sprightly runnings of his genius are undoubtedly here. Mr. Bumble IS m the parish sketches, and Mr. Dawkins the dodger in the Old Bailey scenes. There is laughter and fun to excess, never misapplied; there are the minute points and shades of character, with all the discrimination and nicety of detail afterwards so famous; there is everywhere the most perfect ease and skill of handling. The observa- tion shown throughout is nothing short of wonderful. Things are painted literally as they are; and, whatever the picture, whether of every-day vulgar, shabby ^.^nteel, or downright* low, with neither the condescending air which is affectation, nor the too familiar one 358 The Life of Charles Dickens which is slang. The book altogether is a perfectly unaffected, un- pretentious, honest performance. Under its manly, sensible straight- forward vein of talk there is running at the same time a natural flow of sentiment never sentimental, of humour always easy and un- forced, and of pathos for the most part dramatic or picturesque, under which lay the germ of what his mature genius took afterwards most delight in. Of course there are inequalities in it, and some things that would have been better away: but it is a book that might have stood its ground, even if it had stood alone, as containing usually truthful observation of a sort of life between the middle class and the low, which, having few attractions for bookish observers, was quite unhackneyed ground. It had otherwise also the very special merit of being in no respect bookish oi commonplace in its descriptions of the old city with which its writer was so familiar. It was a picture of everyday London at its best and worst, in its humours and enjoy- ments as well as its sufferings and sins, pervaded everywhere not only with the absolute reality of the things depicted, but also with that subtle sense and mastery of feeling wliich gives to the reader's sympathies invariably right direction, and awakens consideration, tenderness and kindness precisely for those who most need such help. Between the first and the second numbers of Pickwick, the artist, Mr. Seymour, died by his own hand; and the number came out with three instead of four illustrations. Dickens had seen the unhappy man only once, forty-eight hours before his death; when he went to Furnival's Inn with an etching for the "stroller's-tale" in that number, which, altered at Dickens's suggestion, he brought away again for the few further touches that occupied him to a late hour of the night before he destroyed himself. A notice attached to the number informed the public of this latter fact. There was at first a little difficulty in replacing him, and for a single number Mr. Buss was interposed. But before the fourth number a choice had been made, which as time went on was so thoroughly justified that, through the greater part of the wonderful career which was then beginning, the connection was kept up, and Mr. Hablot Browne's name is not unworthily associated with the mt "erpieces of Dickens's genius. An incident which I heard related by Mr. Thackeray at one of the Royal Academy dinners belongs to this time. "I can remember when Mr. Dickens was a very young man, and had commenced delighting the world with some charming humorous works in covers which were coloured light green and came out once a month, that this young man wanted an artist to illustrate his writings; and I recollect walking up to his chambers in Furnival's Inn, with two or three drawings in my hand which, strange to say, he did not find suitable." Dickens has himself described another change now made in the publication. "We started with a number of twenty-four pages and four illustra- tions. Mr. Sevmour's sudden and lamented death before the second number was published brought about a quick decision upon a point The Life of Charles Dickens 359 already in agitation; the number became one of thirty-two pages wth only two illustrations, and remained so to the end." The Session of 1836 terminated his connection with the gallery and some fruits of his increased leisure showed themselves before the close of the year. His eldest sister's musical attainments and connec- tions had mtroduced him to many cultivators and professors of that art; he was led to take much interest in Mr. Braham's enter-^rise at the St. James's Theatre; and in aid of it he wrote a farce for Mr. Harley, founded upon one of his sketches, and the story and songs for an opera composed by his friend Mr. Hullah. Both the Strange Gentleman, acted in September, and the Village Coquettes, produced m December 1836, had a good success; and the last is memorable to me for having brought me first into personal communication with Dickens. m I] II] IV \ V] VIJ VIII IX X XI XII BOOK SECOND FIRST FIVE YEARS OF FAME 1836-41. MT. 24-9 I. Writing the "Pickwick Papers." II. Between "Pickwick" and "Nicklebv " III. "Oliver Twist." IV. "Nicholas Nickleby." V. During and After "Nicklv.by." VI. New Literary Project. VII. "Old Curiosity Shop." VIII. Devonshire Terrace and Broadstairs. IX. "Barnaby Rudge." X. In Edinburgh, XI. In the Highlands. XII. Again at Broadstairs. fc"l 330^ 361 h i> 'i' , , 'i 1 i WRITING THE " PICKWICK PAPERS 1837 The first letter I had from him was at the close of 1836 from Furni- val's Inn, when he sent me the book of his opera of the Villaee Coquettes, which ha1 been published by Mr. Bentley; and this was followed, tv/o months later, by his collected Sketches, both first and second series; which he desired me to receive "as a very small testi- mony of the donor's regard and obligations, as well as of his desire to cultivate and avail himself of a friendship which has been so pleas- antly thrown m his way. ... In short, if you will receive them for my sake and not for the"r own, you will greatly oblige me." I had met him m the interval at the house of our common friend Mr. Ainsworth and I remember vividly the impression then made upon me. Very different was his face in those days from that which photo- graphy has made familiar to the present generation. A look of youth- fulness first attracted you, and then a candour and openness of ex- pression which made you sure of the qualities within. The features were very good. He had a capital forehead, a firm nose with full wide nostrils, eyes wonderfully beaming with intellect and running over with humour and cheerfulness, and a rather prominent mouth stronglv m.'^rked with sensibility. The head was altogether well formed and symmetrical, and the air and carriage of it were extremely spirited The hair so scant and grizzled in later days was then of a rich brown and most luxuriant abundance, and the bearded face of his last two decades had hardly a vestige of hair or whiskers; but tnere was that in the face as I first recollect it which no time could change and which remained implanted on it unalterably to the last. This was the quickness, keenness, and practical power, the eager, restless, energetic outlook on each several feature, that seemed to tell so little of a stu- dent or writer of books, and so much of a man of action and business in the world. Light and motion flashed from every part of it. "It was as if made of steel," was said of h. four or five years after the time to which I am referring, by a most original and delicate observer the late Mrs. Carlyle. "What a face is his to meet in a drawing-room;" wrote Leigh Hunt to me. the morning after I made them known to each other. "It has the life and soul in it of fifty human beings " In such sayings are expressed not alone the restless and resistless vivacity and force of which I have spoken, but that also whirh loy beneath them of steadiness and hard endurance. ... * 363 iiil ! !l I!*; 'i^ i! 64 The Life of Charles Dickens It was not until the fourth or fifth number of Pickwick (in the latter Sam Weller made his first appearance) that its importance began to be understood by "the trade," and on the eve of the issue of its sixth number, 22 August, 1836, he had signed an agreement with Mr. Bentley to undertake the editorship of a monthly magazine to be started the following January, to which he was to supply a serial story; and soon afterwards he had agreed with the same publisher to write two other tales, the first at a specified early date; the expressed remuneration in each case being certainly inadequate to the claims of a writer of any marked popularity. Under these Bentley agreements he was now writing, month by month, the first half of Oliver Twist, and, under his Chapman and Hall agreement, the last half of Pickwick, not even by a week in advance of the printer with either, when a circumstance became xcnown to him of which he thus wrote to me. "I heard half an hour ago, on authority which leaves me in no doubt about the matter (from the binder of Pickwick in fact), that Macrone intends publishing a new issue of my Sketches in monthly parts of nearly the same size and in just the same form as the Pick- wick Papers. I need not tell you that this is calculated to injure me most seriously, or that I have a very natural and most decided objection to being supposed to presume upon the success of the Pickwick, and thus foist this old work upon the public in its new dress for the mere purpose of putting money in my own pocket. Neither need I say that the fact of my name being before the town, attached to three publications at the same time, must prove seriously prejudi- cial to my reputation. As you are acquainted with the circumstances under which these copyrights were disposed of, and as I know I may rely on your kind help, may I beg you to see Macrone, and to state in the strongest and most emphatic manner my feeling on this point. I wish him to be reminded of the sums he paid for those books; of the sale he has ha d for them; of the extent to which he has already pushed them; and of the very great profits he must necessarily have acquired from them. I wish him also to be reminded that no intention of publishing them in this form was in the remotest manner hinted to me, by him or on his behalf, when he c '"ttained possession of the copy- right. I then wish you to put it tc his feelings of common honesty and fair-dealing whether after this communication he will persevere in his intention." What else the Ic.trT contained need not be quoted, but it strongly moved i.ie to do my b<^3t. I found Mr. Macrone ir > xessible to all arguments of persuasion, however. That he had br. ig'7.1: the book for a small sum at a time when the smallest was not uniiri; • Lant to the writer, shortly before hh marriage, and that he ha' ■ lace i; tade very considerable profits by it, in no way disturbed his position ' hat he had a right to make as much as he could of what was his, without regard to how it had become so. There was nothing for it but to chr-^ge front, and, admitting it might be a less evil to the unkc?:y author to repurchase tnaiT to let the iiiorithiy issue proceed, to ask what fvather gain was looked for: but The Life of Charles Dickens 365 so wide a mouth was opened at this that I would have no part in the costly process of filling it. I told Dickens so. and strongly counselled him to keep quiet for a time. But the worry and vexation were too great with all the work he had m hand, and I was hardly surprised next day to receive the letter sent me; which yet should be prefaced with the remark that suspense of any kmd was at all times intolerable to the writer. The interval between the accomplishment of anything, and "its first motion " Dickens never could endure, and he was too ready to make aiiv sacrifice to abridge or end it. This did not belong to the strong side of his character, and advantage was frequently taken of the fact "I sent down just now to know whether you were at home (two o'clock) as Chapman and Hall were with me, and, the case btin^ urgent I wished to have the furth. r benefit of your kind advice and*assistance Macrone and his friend (arcades ambo) waited on +hem this morning' and after a long disc ission peremptorily refused t take one farthing less than two thousand pounds. The friend repeated the statement of figures which he made to you >\33terday, and put it to Hall whether he could say fium his kr:owledge of such matters that the estimate of probable profit was exorbitant. Hall, whose judgment may be relied on in such matters, could not dispute the justice of the calculation And so the matter stood. In this dilemma it occurred to them (mv Pickwick men), whether, if the Sketches must appear in monthly numbers, it would not be better for them to appear for their benefit and mine conjointly, than for Macrone's sole use and behoof; whether they, having all the Pickwick machinery in full operation, could not obtain for them a much larger sale than Macrone . juld ever get" and whether, even at this large price of two thousand pounds, we might not. besides retaining the copyright, reasonably hope for a good profit on the outlay. These suggestions having presented themselves ;:bey cane straight to me (having obtained a few hours' respite) and proposed that we should purchase the copyrights between us for the two thous' id pounds, and publish them in monthly parts. I need not say that no other form of publication would repay the expenditure- and they v ish me to explain by an address that they, who may be fairly put forward as the parties, have been driven into that mode of puWicati' 1. or the copyrigh. would have been lost. I considered the mat . "n every possible way. I sent for you. but you were out I th.^ught of" (what, need not be repeated, now that all is past and gone) "and consented. Vvas I right? I think you will say yes " I could not say no. though I was glad to have been ro party to a price so exorbitant; which yet profited extremely little the person who r-ceived it. He died in hardly more than tw . years; and if Dickens had enjoyed the most liberal treatment at his hands, he could not have exertf d himself more generously for the widow and children. His new story was now beginning largely to share attention with JUS Pickwick Papers, and it was delightful to see how real all its people became to him. What I had most indeed to notice in him at ~ t:\,.^^ .hiad. , ^^Bsj^SSf'' HB * ■ i ?r. -^BK^ 1 i 366 The Life of Charles Dickens the very outset of his career, was his indifference to any praise of his performances on the merely literary side, compared with the higher recognition of them as bits of actual life, with the meaning and pur- pose on their part, and the responsibility on his. of realities rather than creatures of fancy. The exception that might be drawn from Pickwick is rather in seeming than substance. A first book has its immunities, and the distinction of this from the rest of the writings appears in what has been said of its origin. The plan of it was simply to amuse. It was to string together whimsical sketches of the pencil by entertaining sketches of the pen; and. at its beginning, where or how It was to end as little known to himself as to any of its readers. But genius is a master as well as a servant, and when the laughter and fun were at their highest something graver made its appearance He had to defend himself for this; and he said that, though the mere oddity of a new acquaintance was apt to impress one at first, the more serious qualities were discovered when we became friends with the man. In other words, he might have said that the change was become necessary for his own satisfaction. The book itself, in teach- ing him what his power was, had made him more conscious of what would be expected from its use; and this never afterwards quitted him. In what he was to do hereafter, as in all he was doing now with Ptckwtck still to finish and Oliver only beginning, it constantly attenaed him. Nor could it well be otherwise, with all those fanciful creations so real, to a nature in itself so practical and earnest and in this spirit I had well understood the letter accompanying what had be- published of Oliver since its commencement the preceding T . jT .ry, which reached me the day after I visited him. Something t '!. effect of what has just been said, I had remarked publicly of tisc , ortion of the story sent to me; and his instant warm-hearted acknowledgment, of which I permit myself to quote a line or two showed me in what perfect agreement we were. "How can I thank you? Can I do better than by saying that the sense of poor Oliver's reality, which I know you have had from the first, has been the hicrhest of all praise to me. None that has been lavished upon me have I felt half so much as that appreciation of my intent and meaning You know I have ever done so, for it was your feeling for me and mine for you that first brought us together, and I hope will keep us so till death do us part. Your notices make me grateful but very proud- so have a care of them." There was nothing written by him after this date which I did not see before the world did, eit< ar in manuscript or proofs- and in connection with the latter I si. .tly began to give him the help which he publicly mentioned twenty yt -s later in dedicating his collected writings to me. One of his letters reminds me when these corrections began, and they were continued very nearly to the last They lightened for him a labour of which he had more 'than enough imposed upon him at this time by others, and they were never any- thing but an enjoyment to me. "I have," he wrote, "so mnnv Bhe«<-° The Life of Charles Dickens 367 of the Miscellany to correct before I can begin Oliver, that I fear I shall not be able to leave home this morning. I therefore send your revise of the Pickwick by Fred, who is on his way with it to the prin- ters. You will see that my alterations are very slight, but I think for the better." This was the fourteenth number of the Pickwick Papers. Fred was his next younger brother, who lived with him at the time. The number following this was the famous one in which the hero finds himself in the Fleet, and another of his letters will show what enjoyment the writing of it had given to himself. I had sent to ask him where we were to meet for a proposed ride that day. "Here," was his reply. "I am slippered and jacketted, and, like that same starling who is so very seldom quoted, can't get out. I am getting on, thank Heaven, 'like a house o' fire,' and think the next Pickwick will bang all the others. 1 shall expect you at one, and we will walk to the stable together. If you know anybody at Saint Paul's, I wish you'd send round and ask them not to ring the bell so. I can hardly hear my own ideas as they come into my head, and say what they mean." The exulting tone of confidence in what he had thus been writing was indeed well justified. He had as yet done nothing so remarkable, in blending humour with tragedy, as his picture of what the poor side of a debtor's prison was in the days of which we have seen that he had himself had bitter experience; and we have but to recall, as it rises sharply to the memory, what is contained in this portion of a work that was not only among his earliest but his least considered as to plan, to understand what it was that not alone had given him his fame so early, but which in itself held the germ of the future that awaited him. Every point was a telling one, and the truthfulness of the whole unerring. The dreadful restlessness of the place, undefined yet unceasing, unsatisfying and terrible, was pictured throughout with Defoe's minute reality; while points of character were handled in that greater style which connects with the richest oddities of humour an insight into principles of character universal as nature itself. When he resolved that Sam Weller should be occupant of the prison with ^JLr. Pickwick, he was perhaps thinking of his favourite Smollett, and how, when Peregrine Pickle was inmate of the Fleet, Hatchway and Pipes refused to leave him; but Fielding himself might have envied his way of setting about it. . . . Of what the reception of the book had been up to this time, and of the popularity Dickens had won as its author, this also will be the proper place to speak. For its kind, its extent, and the absence of everything unreal or factitious in the causes that contributed to it, it is unexampled in literature. Here was a series of sketches, without the pretence to such interest as attends a well-constructed story; put forth in a form apparently ephemeral as its purpose; having none that seemed higher than to exhibit some studies of cockney manners with help from a comic artist; and after four or five parts had appeared without newspaper notice or puffing, and itself not subserving in the nnhlir ary.rirhince falcp r\r unvr'orth /» ,4- XL mtc ^y -tf^^^v^wl m-m ■5 i ! ,i\ m W^. i • ! k'^i" y 4-1 A ■ SfJfi lt- *- 368 The Life of Charles Dickens each part carried higher and higher, until people at this trme talked of nothing else, tradesmen recommended their goods by usmg its name, and its sale, outstripping at a bound that of all the most famous books of the century, had reached to an almost fabulous number. Of part one. the binder prepared four hundred; and of part fifteen, his order was for more than forty thousand. Every class, the high equally with the low. were atcracted to it. The charm of its gaiety and good humour, its inexhaustible fun. its riotous overflow of animal spirits, its brightness and keenness of observation, and, above all. the incom- parable ease of its many varieties of enjoyment, fascmated everybody. Judges on the bench and boys in the street, gravity and folly, the young and the old, those who were entering life and those who were quitting it. alike found it to be irresistible. "An archdeacon, wrote Mr. Carlyle afterAvards to me. "with his own venerab e lips, repeated to me, the other night, a strange profane story: of a solemn clergyman who had been administering ghostly consolation to a sick person; having finished, satisfactorily as he thought, and got out of the room he heard the sick person ejaculate: 'Well, thank God. Pickwick will be out in ten days anyway!'— This is dreadful." • • • . , ^, „. ,., I do not. for reasons to be hereafter stated, think the Pickwick Papers comparable to the later books; but, apart from the new vem of humour it opened, its wonderful freshness and its unflagging animal spirits, it has two characters that will probably contmue to attract to it an unfading popularity. Its pre-eminent achievement is of course Sam Weller; one of those people that take their place among the supreme successes of fiction, as one that nobody ever saw but everybody recognises, at once perfectly natural and intensely original. Who is there that has ever thought him tedious? Who is so familiar with him as not still to be finding something new in him? Who is so amazed by his inexhaustible resources, or so amused by his inextin- guishable laughter, as to doubt of his being as ordmary and perfect a reality, nevertheless, as anything in the London streets? When indeed the relish has been dulled that makes such humour natural and appre- ciable, and not his native fun only, his ready and rich illustration, his imperturbable self-possession, but his devotion to his master his chivalry and his gallantry, are no longer discovered or believed no longer to exist, in the ranks of life to which he belongs it will be worse for all of us than for the fame of his creator. Nor. when faith is lost in that possible combination of eccentricities and benevolences, shrewdness and simplicity, good sense and folly aP that suggests the ludicrous and nothing that suggests contempt for it, which form the delightful oddity of Pickwick, will the mistake committed be one rrerelv of critical misjudgment. But of this there is small fear Sam Weller and Mr. Pickwick are the Sancho and the Quixote of Londoners, and as little likely to pass away as the old city itself . Dickens was very fond of riding in these early years, and there was no recreation he so much indulged, or with such profit to himself, the intervals of his hatdest work. I was his cuiixpanion ottener vhan m talked 5ing its famous ber. Of 3en, his equally id good spirits, incom- rybody. illy, the ho were " wrote epeated rgyman person; le room, k will be ^ickwick lew vein flagging tinue to jment is e among saw but original, familiar ^ho is so inextin- perfect a n indeed d appre- ition, his ster, his ieved no t will be ti faith is /olences, gests the form the 1 be one lall fear, lixote of ielf. here was himself, ;'tier than The Life of Charles Dickens 369 I could well afford the time for, the distances being great and nothing else to be done for the day; but when a note would unexpectedly arrive while I knew him to be hunted hard by one of his printers, telling me he had been sticking to work so closely that he must have rest, and, by way of getting it, proposing we should start together that morning at eleven o'clock for "a fifteen mile ride out, ditto in, and a lunch on the road," with a wind up of six o'clock dinner in Doughty Street, I could not resist the good fellowship. His notion of finding rest from mental exertion in as much bodily exertion of equal severity continued with him to the last; taking in the later years what I always thought the too great strain of as many miles in walking as he now took in the saddle, and too often indulging it at night: for, though he was always passionately fond of walking, he observed as yet a moderation in it, even accepting as sufficient my seven or eight miles' companionship. "What a brilliant morning for a country walk!" he would write, with not another word in his dispatch. Or, "Is it possible that you can't, oughtn't, shouldn't, mustn't, won't be tempted, this gorgeous day!" Or, "I start precisely— precisely mind— at half- past one. Come, come, come, and walk in the green lane. You will work the better for it all the week. Come! I shall expect you." Or, "You don't feel dispop^d, do you, to mutfie yourself up, and start off with me for a good brisk walk, over Hampstead Heath? I know a good 'ouse there where we can have a red-hot chop for dinner, and a glass of good wine": which led to our first experience of Jack Straw's Castle, memorable for many happy meetings in coming years. But the rides were most popular and frequent. "I think," he would write, "Richmond and Twickenhi^m, thro' the park, out at Knightsbridge, and over Barnes Common — would make a beautiful ride." Or, "Do you know, I shouldn't object to an early chop at some village inn?" Or, "Not knowing whether my head was off or on, it became so addled with work, I have gone riding the old road, and should be trul>- de- lighted to meet or be overtaken by you." Or, "V/here shall it be — oh where — Hampstead, Greenwich, Windsor? where? ? ? ? ? ? while the day is bright, not when it has dwindled away to nothing! For who can be of any use whatsomdever such a day as this, excepting out of doors?" Or it might be interrogatory summons to "A hard trot of three hours?" or intimation as laconic "To be heard of at Eel Pie House, Twickenham i" When first I knew him, I may add, his carriage for his wife's use was a small chaise with a smaller pair of ponies, which having a habit of making sudden rushes up by-streets in the day and peremptory standstills in ditches by night, were changed in the fol- lowing year for a more su ttable equipage. To this mention of his habits while at work when our friendship began, I have to add what will complete the relation already given, in connection with his Sketches, of the uneasy sense accompanying his labour that it was yielding insufiicient for himself while it enriched others, which is a needful part of his story at this time. At Midsummer X837, rcplyiiig to some inquiries, and sending his agreement witi^ i \,i i If ■I w * • I I $ 370 The Life of Charles Dickens Mr. Bentley for the Miscellany under which he was writing Oliver, he went on: "It is a very extraordinary fact (I forgot it on Sunday) that I have NEVER had from him a copy of the agreement respecting the novel, which I never saw before or since I signed it at his house one morning long ago. Shall I ask him for a copy, or no? I have looked at some memoranda I made at the time, and I fear he has my second novel on the same terms, under the same agreement. This is a bad look-out, but we must try and mend it. You will tell me you are very surprised at my doing business in this way. So am I, for in most matters of labour and application I am punctuality itself. The truth is (though you do not need I should explain the matter to you, my dear fellow) that, if I had allowed myself to be worried by these things, I could never have done as much as I have. But I much fear, in my desire to avoid present vexations, I have laid up a bitter store for the future." The second novel, which he had promised in a complete form for a very early date, and had already selected subject and title for, was published four years later as Barnaby Rudge; but of the third he at present knew nothing but that he was expected to begin it, if not in the magazine, somewhere or other independently within a specified time. The first appeal made, in taking action upon his letter, had refer- ence to the immediate pressure of the Barnaby novel; but it also opened up the question of the great change of circumstances since these various agreements had been precipitately signed by him, the very different situation brought about by the extraordinary increase in the popularity of his writings, and the advantage it would be, to both Mr. Bentley and himself, to make more equitable adjustment of their relations. Some misunderstandings followed, but were closed by a compromise in September 1837; by which the third novel was abandoned ^ on certain conditions, and Barnaby was undertaken to be finished by November 1838. This involved a completion of the new story during the progress of Oliver, whatever might be required to follow on the close of Pickwick; and I doubted its wisdom. But it was accepted for the time. He had meanwhile taken his wife abroad for a ten days' summer holiday, accompanied by the shrewd observant young artist Mr. Hablot Browne, whose admirable illustrations to Pickwick had more than supplied Mr. Seymour's loss; and I had a letter from him on their landing at Calais on 2 July. "We have arranged for a post-coach tc ^?ke us to Ghent, Brussels, Antwerp, and a hundred other places, that i cannot recollect now and couldn't spell if I did. We went this afternoon in a barouche to some gardens where the people dance, and where they were footing it most heartily— especially the women, who in their short petticoats and 1 I have a memorandum in Dickens's wrjlmg that £500 was to have been given for it, and an additional £250 on its sale reaching 3000 copies: but he had no ground of objection to the terms that accompanied its suirender, which were favourable. The Life of Charles Dickens 371 light caps look uncommonly agreeable. A gentleman in a blue sur- tout and silken berlins accompanied us from the hotel, and acted as curator. He even waltzed with a very smart lady (just to show us condescendmgly. how it ought to be done), and waltzed elegantly' too. We rang for slippers after we came back, and it turned out that this gentleman was the Boots." His later seaside holiday was passed at Brcadstairs. as were those of many subsequent years, and the little watering-place has been made memorable by his pleasant sketch of it. From his letters to my- self a few Imes may be given of his first doings and impressions there. Writmg on 3 September, he reports himself just risen from an attack of illness. "I am much better, and hope to begin Pickwick No 18 to-morrow. You will imagine how queer I must have been when I tell you that I have been compelled for four-and-twenty mortal hours to abstain from porter or other malt liquor! ! ! I done it though— really. ... I have discovered that the landlord of the Albion has delicious hollands (but what is that to you, for you cannot sympa- thise with my feelings), and that a cobbler who lives opposite to my bedroom window is a Roman Catholic, and gives an hour and a half to his devotions every morning behind his counter. I have walked upon the sands at low-water from this place to Ramsgate, and sat upon the same at high-ditto till I have been flayed with the cold. I have seen ladies and gentlemn walking upon the earth in slippers of buff, and pickling themselves in the sea in complete suits of the same I have seen stout gentlemen looking at nothing through powerful telescopes for hours, and, when at last they saw a cloud of smoke fancying a steamer behind it. and going home comfortable and happy' I have found out that our next neighbour has a wife and something else under the same roof with the rest of his furniture— the wife deaf and blind, and the something else given to drinking. And if you ever get to txie end of this letter you will find out that I subscribe myself on paper as on everything else (some atonement perhaps for its length and absurdity)," etc. In his next letter (from 12 High Street, Broadstairs, on the 7th) there is allusion to one of the many piracies of Pickwick, which had distinguished itself beyond the rest by a preface abusive of the writer plundered. "I recollect this 'member of the dramatic-authors'- society' bringing an action once against Chapman, who rented the City Theatre, in which it was proved that he had undertaken to write under special agreement seven melodramas for five pounds, to enable him to do which a room had been hired in a gin-shop close by. The defendant's plea was that the plaintiff was always drunk, and had not fulfilled his contract. We"; if the Pickwick has been the means of putting a few shillings in the vermin-eaten pockets of so miserable a creature, and has saved him from a workhouse or a jail, let him empty out his little pot of filth and welcome. I am quite content to Jiave been the means of relieving him. Besides, he seems to have suffered by agreements!" . . . ' f,; f ii k- f ii' 1 ■ )li : lit ;t i,. 372 The Life of Charles Dickens \'¥ I J I n BETWEEN "PICKWICK" AND "NICKLEBY" 1837 and 1838 One result of his more satisfactory relations with Mr. Bentley led to a promise to edit for him a Life of the celebrated clown, Grimaldi. The manuscript had been prepared from autobiographical notes b\' a Mr. Egerton Wilk , and contained one or two stories told so ba( .y, and so well worth better telling, that the hope of enlivening their dullness at the cost of very little labour constituted a sort of attrac- tion for him. Except the preface, he did not write a line of this bio- graphy, such modifications or additions as he made having been dic- tated by him to his father; whom I fo nd often in exalted enjoyment of the office of amanuensis. He had also a most indifferent opinion of the mass of material which Mr. Wilks had raked together, describing it as "twaddle"; and his own mod st estimate of the book, on its completion, may be guessed from the number of notes of admiration (no less than thirty) which accompanied his written mention to me of the sale with which it started in the first week of its publication. "Seventeen hundred Grimaldis have already been sold, and the demand increases daily! ! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!" It was not to have all its own wav, however. A great many critical faults were found; and one point in particular was urged against his handling such a subject, that he could never himself even have seen Grimaldi. To this last objection he was moved to reply, and had pre- pared a letter for the Miscellany, "from editor to sub-editor," which it was thought best to suppress, but of which the opening remark may now be not unamusing. "1 understand that a gentleman unknown is going about this town privately informing all ladies and gentlemen of discontented natures that, on a comparison of dates and putting together of many little circumstances Which occur to his great sagacity, he has made the profound discovery that I can never have seen Grimaldi, whose Life I have edited, and that the book must therefore of necessity be bad. Now, sir, although I was brought up from remote country parts in the d?rk ages of 18 19 and 1820 to behold the splen- dour of Christmas pantomimes and the humour of Joe, in whose hon- our I am informed I clapped my hands with great precocity, and although I even saw him act in the remote times of 1823; yet, as I had not then aspired to the dignity of a tail-coat, though forced by a relentless parent into my first pair of boots, I am willing, with the view of saving this honest gentleman further time and trouble, to concede that I had not arrived at man's estate when Grimaldi left the stage, and that my recollections of his acting are, to mv loss but The Life of Cliaiies Dickens 373 shadowy and imperfect. Which confession I now make publicly, and without mental qualification or reserve, to all whom it may concern. But the deduction of this pleasant gentleman that therefore the Grimaldi book must be bad, 1 must take leave to doubt. 1 don't think that to edit a man's biography from his own notes it is essential you should have known him, and I don't believe that Lord Braybrooke had more than the very slightest acquaintance with Mr. Pepys, whose memoirs he edited two centuries after he died." Enormous meanwhile, and without objection audible on any side, had been the succoss of the completed Pickwick, which we celebrated by a dinner, with himself in the chair and Talfourd in the vice-chair, everybody in hearty good humour with every other body; and a copy of which I received from him on 1 1 December in the most luxurious of Mayday's bindings, with a note worth preserving for its closing allusion. The passage referred to in it was a comment, in delicately chosen words, that Leigh Hunt had made on the inscription at the grave in Kensal Green. "Chapman and Hall have just sent me, with a copy of our deed, three 'extra-super' bound copies of Pickwick, as per specimen enclosed. The first I forward to you, the second I have pre- sented to our good friend Ainsworth, and the third Kate 'las retained for herself." . . . The "deed" mentioned was one executed in the previous month to restore to him a third ownership in the book which had thus far en- riched all concerned b"t himself. The original understanding respect- ing it Mr. Edwin Chapman thus describes for me. "There was no agree- ment about Pickwick except a verbal one. Each number was to con- sist of a sheet and a half, for which we were to pay fifteen guineas; and we paid him for the first two numbers at once, as he required the money to go and get married with. We were also to pay more accord- ing to the sale, and I think Pickwick altogether cost us three thousand pounds." Adjustment to the sale would have cost four times as much, and of the actual payments I have myself no note; but, as far ad my memory serves, they are overstated by Mr. Chapman, My impression is that, above and beyond the first sum due for each of the twenty numbers (making no allowance for their extension after the first to thirty-two pages), sn-' jssive cheques were given, as the work went steadily on to the c .r.^rmous sale it reached, which brought up the entire sum received to two thousand five hundred pounds. I had, however, always pressed so strongly the importance to him of some share in the copyright, that this at last was conceded in the deed above-mentioned, though five years were to elapse before the right should accrue; and it was only yielded as part consideration for a further agreement entered into at the same date (19 November, 1837) whereby Dickens engaged to "write a new work the title whereof shall be determined by him, of a similar character and of the same extent as the Posthumous Papers of the Pickwick Club," the first number of which was to be delivered on the fifteenth of the following icxrvn, aixu co»^n wi tjnc liuiiiuciB uii lui: aiiuie uay 01 eacQ 01 tne sue- ■I I ii i .• * Ii V, 1'^ I IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I !ri^ 2.5 2.2 1^ 1^ ^ m ^ U& 12.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 •" 6" - ► .r^ o 7 w Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 .^ l^I> ^' ^^ & o ^ I 374 The Life of Charles Dickens cessive nineteen months; which was also to be the date of the payment to him, by Messrs, Chapman and Hall, of twenty several sums of one hundred and fifty pound* each for vve years' use of the copjrright, the entire ownership in which was then to revert to Dickens. The name of this new book, as all the world knows, was The Life and Adventures of Nicholas Nicklehy; and between April 1838 and October 1839 it was begun and finished accordingly. All through the interval of these arrangements Oliver Twist had been steadily continued. Month by month, for many months, it had run its opening course with the close of Pickwick, as we shall see it close with the opening of Nicklehy, and the expectations of those who had built most confidently on the young novelist were more than COP firmed. Here was the interest of a story simply but well constructed ; and characters with the same impress of reality upon them, but more carefully and skilfully drawn. Nothing could be meaner than the sub- ject, the progress of a parish or workhouse boy, nothing less so than its treatment. As each number appeared, his readers generally be- came more and more conscious of v/hat already, as we have seen, had revealed itself and even the riotous fun of Pickwick, that the purpose was not solely to amuse; and, far more decisively than its predecessor, the new story further showed what were the not least potent elements in the still-increasing popularity that was gathering around the writer. His qualities could be appreciated as well as felt in an almost equal degree by all classes of his various readers. Thousands were attracted to him, because he placed them in the midst of scenes and characters with which they were already themselves acquainted; and thousands were reading him with no less avidity because he introduced them to passages of nature and life of which they before knew nothing, but of the truth of which their own habits and senses sufficed to assure them. With such work as this in hand, it will liardly seem surprising that, as the time for beginning Nicklehy came on, and as he thought of his promise for November, he should have the sense of "something hanging over him like a hideous nightmare." He felt that he could not complete the Barnahy Rudge novel by the November of that year as promised, and that the engagement he would have to break was un- fitting him for engagements he might otherwise fulfil. He had under- taken what in truth was impossible. The labour of at once editing the Miscellany, and supplying it with monthly portions of Oliver, more than occupied all the time left him by other labours absolutely neces- sary. "I no sooner get myself up," he wrote, "high and dry, to attack Oliver manfully, than up come the waves of each month's work, and drive me back again into a sea of manuscript." There was nothing for it but that he should make further appeal to Mr. Bentley. "I have recently," he wrote to him on 11 February, 1838, "been think- in pj a great deal about Barnahy Rudge. Grimaldi has occupied so much of the short interval I had between the completion of the Pickwick and the commencement of the new work, that I see it will be v.'holly impossible for me to produce it by the time I had hoped with justice The Life of Charles Dickens payment IS of one pyright, jns. The The Life 838 and vist had s, it had ill see it lose who )re than bructed; ut more the sub- so than ally be- 2en, had purpose lecessor, lements e writer. st equal ttracted aracters ousands them to I, but of re them, ng that, it of his nething )uld not year as was un- l under- ting the T, more y neces- dry, to month's lere was Bentley. Q think- io much Hckwick ! v.'holly I justice 375 to myself or profit to you. What I wish you to consider is this: would it not be far more to your interest, as well as within the scope of my ability, if Barnaby Rudge began in the Miscellany immediately on the conclusion of Oliver Twist, and were continued there for the same time, and then published in three volumes.? Take these simple facts into consideration. If the Miscellany is to keep its ground, it must have some continuous tale from me when Oliver stops. If I sat down to Barnaby Rudge, writing a little of it when I could (and with all my other engagements it would necessarily be a very long time before I could hope to finish it that way), it would be clearly impossible for me to begin a new series of papers in the Miscellany. The conduct of three different stories at the same time, and the production of a large portion of each, every month, would have been beyond Scott himself. Whereas, having Barnaby for the Miscellany, we could at once supply the gap which the cessation of Oliver must create, ard you would have all the advantage of that prestige in favour of the work which :s certain to enhance the value of OHver Twist considerably. Just think of this at your leisure. I am really anxious to do the best I can for you as well as for myself, and in this case the pecuniary advantage must be all on your side." This letter nevertheless, which had also re- quested an overdue account of the sales of the Miscellany, led to differences which were only adjusted after six months' wrangling; and I was party to the understanding then arrived at by which, among other things, Barnaby was placed upon the footing desired, and was to begm when Oliver closed. . . . On the 13th, after describing himself "sitting patiently at home waiting for Oliver Twist, who has not yet arrived," which was his agreeable form of saying that his fancy had fallen into sluggishness that morning, he made remark in as pleasant phrase on some piece of painful news I had sent him, now forgotten. "I have not yet seen the paper, and you throw me into a fever. The comfort is, that all the strange and terrible things come uppermost, and that the good and pleasant things are mixed up with every moment of our existence so plentifully that we scarcelvheed them." At the close of the month Mrs. Dickens was well enough o accompany him to Richmond, for now the time was come to start Nickleby, and having . een away from town when Pickwick's first number came out, he made it a superstition to be absent at many future similar times. The magazine day of that April month, I remember, fell upon a Saturday, and the previous evening had brought me a peremptory summons: "Meet me at the Shakespeare on Saturday night at eight; order your horse at midnight, and ride back with me": which was duly complied with. The smallest hour was sounding into the night from St. Paul's before we started, and the night was none of the pleasantest; but we carried news that lightened every part of the road, for the sale of Nickleby had reached that day the astonishing number of nearly fifty thousand ! I left him working with unusual cheerfulness at Oliver Twist when I quitted the "Star and Garter" on the next day but one, after celebrating with i ' ■ ! 376 The Life of Charles Dickens both friends on the previous evening an anniversary which con- cerned us all (their second and my twenty-sixth); and which we kept always in future at the same place, except when they were living out of England, for twenty successive years. It was a part of his love of regularity and order, as well as of his kindliness of nature, to place such friendly meetings as these under rules of habits and con- tinuance. Ill r "OLIVER twist" 1838 The whole of his time not occupied with Nickleby was now given to Oliver, and as the story shaped itself to its close it took extraordinary hold of him. I never knew him work so frequently after dinner, or to such late hours (a practice he afterwards abhorred), as during the final months of this task; which it was now his hope to complete before October, though its close in the magazine would not be due until the following March. "I worked pretty well last night," he writes, referring to it in May, "verj" well indeed; but although I did eleven close slips before half-past twelve I have four to write to close the chapter; and, as I foolishly left them till this morning, havcj the steam to get up afresh." A month later he writes: "I got to the six- teenth slip last night, and shall try hard to get to the thirtieth before I go to bed." Then, on a "Tuesday night" at the opening of August, he wrote: "Hard at work still. Nancy is no more. I showed what I have done to Kate last night, who was in an unspeakable 'state'; from which and my own impression I auger well. When I have sent Sikes to the devil, I must have yours." "No, no." he wrote, in the following month: "don't, don't let us ride till to-morrow, not having yet disposed of the Jew, who is such an out and outer, that I don't know what to make of him." No small difficulty to an inventor, where the creatures of his invention are found to be as real as himself; but this also was mastered; and then there remained but the closing quiet chapter to tell the fortunes of those who had figured in the tale. To this he sum- moned me in the first week of September, replying to a request of mine that he'd give me a call that day. "Come and give me a call, and let us have 'a bit o' talk' before we have a bit o' som'at else. My missis is going out to dinner, and I ought to go, but I have got a bad cold. So do you come, and sit here, and read, or work, or do something, while I write the last chapter of Oliver, which will be arter a lamb chop." How well I remember that evening! and our talk of what should be the fate of Charley Bates, on behalf of whom (as indeed for The Life of Charles Dickens Lch con- we kept ving out his love iture, to md con- given to ordinary ler, or to iring the complete t be due ght." he igh I did 3 to close havd the ) the six- th before f August, at I have )m which :es to the following disposed what to creatures also was lapter to J he sum- squest of call, and else. My jot a bad mething, !r a lamb of what adeed for 377 the Dodger, too) Talfourd had pleaded as earnestly in mitigation of judgment as ever at the bar for any client he most respected. The publication had been announced for Octobei, but the third yolumeillustrationsintercepteditalittle. . . . The completed niver Twist found a circle of admirers, not so wide in its range as those of others of his books, but of a character and mark that made their honest liking for it, and steady advocacy of it, important to his fame; and the story has held its ground in the first class of his writings. It deserves that place. ... At the time of which I am speaking, the debtors' prisons described in Pickwick, the parochial management denounced in Oliver, and the Yorkshire schools exposed in Nickleby, were all actual existences; which now have no vivider existence than in the forms he thus gave to them. With wiser purposes, he superseded the old petrifying process of the magician in the Arabian tale, and struck the prisons and parish practices of his country, and its schools of neglect and crime, into palpable life for ever. A portion of the truth of the past, of the character and very history of the moral abuses of his time, will thus remain al- ways in his writings; and it will be rciiiembered that with only the light arms of humour and laughter, and the gentle ones of pathos and sadness, he carried cleansing and reform into those Augean :; ibles. . . . And now, while Oliver was running a great career of popularity and success, the shadow of the tale of Bamahy Rudge, which he was to write on similar terms and to begin in the Miscellany when the other should have ended, began to darken everything around him. We had much discussion respecting it, and I had no small difficulty in re- straining him from throwing up the agreement altogether; but the real hardship of his position, and the considerate construction to be placed on every effort made by him to escape from obligations in- curred in ignorance of the sacrifices implied by them, will be best understood from his own frank statement. On 21 January, 1839, enclosing me the copy of a letter which he proposed to send to Mr! Bentley the following morning, he thus %vrote: "From what I have already said to you, you will have been led to expect that I enter- tained some such intention. I know you will not endeavour to dis- suade me from sending it. Go it must. It is no fiction to say that at present I cannot write this tale. The immense profits which Oliver has realised to its publisher, and is still realisinqf, the paltry, wretched, miserable sum it brought to me (not equal to what is every day paid for a novel that sells fifteen hundred copies at most); the recollection of this, and the consciousness that I have still the slavery and drud- gery of another work on the same journeyman-terms; the conscious- ness that my books are enriching everybody connected with them but myself, and that I, with such a popularity as I have acquired, am struggling in old toils, and wasting my energies in the very height and freshness of my fame, and the best part of my life, to fill the pockets of others, while for those who are nearest and dearest to me I can 1 i Ik 1 • 'ja •f 1 If «■■ 378 The Life of Charles Dickens realise little more than a genteel subsistence: all this puts me out of heart and spirits: and I cannot— cannot and will not — under such circumstances that keep me down with an iron hand, distress myself by beginning this tale until I have had time to breathe; and until the intervention, shall have restored me to a more genial and composed state of feeling. There — for six months Batnaby Rudge stands ovfer. And but for you, it should stand over altogether. For I do most solemnly declare that morally, before God and man, I hold myself released from such hard bargains as these, after I have done so much for those who drove them. This net that has been wound about me so chafes me, so exasperates and irritates my mind, that to break it at whatever cost — that I should care nothing for — is my constant im- pulse. But I have not yielded to it. I merely declare that I must have a postponement very common in all literary agreements; and for the time I have mentioned — six months from the conclusion of Oliver in the Miscellany — I wash my hands of any fresh accumulation of labour, and resolve to proceed as cheerfully as I can with that which already presses upon me." To describe what followed upon this is not necessary. It will suffice to state the results. Upon the appearance in the Miscellany, in the early months of i8 19, of the last portion of Oliver Twist, its author, having been relieved altogether from his engagement to the mag- azine, handed over, in a familiar epistle from a parent to his child, the editorship to Mr. Ainsworth; and the still subsisting agreement to write Barnaby Rudge was, upon the overture of Mr. Bentley himself, in June of the following year, 1840, also put an end to, on payment by Dickens, for the copyright of Oliver Twist and such printed stock as remained of the edition then on hand, of two thousand two hundred and fifty pounds. What was further incident to this transaction will be told hereafter; and a few words may mean- while be taken, not without significance in regard to it, from the parent's familiar epistle. It describes the child as aged two years and two months (so :>ng had he watched over it); gives sundry pieces of advice conceniing its circulation, and the importance thereto of light and pleasant articles of food; and concludes, after some general moralising on the shiftings and changes of this world having taken so wonderful a turn that mail-coach guards were become no longer judges of horse-flesh: "I reap no gain or profit by parting from you, nor will any conveyance of your property be required, for in this respect you have always been literally Bentley's Miscellany and never mine," ne out of ider such ss myself until the composed nds ovfer. do most Id myself ! so much )ut me so reak it at jtant im- lust have id for the of Oliver ilation of lat which r. It will ellany, in s author, the mag- tiis child, ^reement Bentley id to, on ind such , of two incident a,y mean- from the rears and ry pieces bereto of e general ng taken lo longer rom you, T in this lany and The Life of Charles Dickens IV "NICHOLAS NICKLEBY'* 1838 and 1839 I WELL recollect the doubt there was, mixed with the eager expec- tation which the announcement of his second serial story had awakened, whether the event would justify all that interest; and if indeed it were possible that the young writer could continue to walk steadily under the burthen of tne popularity laid upon him. The first number dispersed this cloud of a question in a burst of sunshine; and as much of the gaiety of nations as had been eclipsed by old Mr Pickwick's voluntary exile to Dulwich was restored by the cheerful confidence with which young Mr. Nicholas Nickleby stepped into his shoes. Everything that had given charm to the first book was here, with more attention to the important requisite of a story, and more wealth as well as truth of character. . . . Who that recoll^^cts the numbers of Nickleby as they appeared can have forgotten how each number added to the general enjoyment? All that had given Pickwick its vast popularity, the overflowing mirth, hearty exuberance of humour, and genial kindliness of satire had here the advantage of a better-laid design, more connected incidents, and greater precision of character. Everybody seemed immediately to know the Nickleby family as well as his own Dothe- boys, with all that rendered it, like a piece by Hogarth, both luc crous and terrible, became a household word. Successive groups of Mantalinis, Kenwigses, Crummleses, introduced each to its little world of reality, lighted up everywhere with truth and life, with capital observation, the quaintest drollery, and quite boundless mirth and fun. The brothers Cheeryble brought with them all the charities. With Smike came the first of those pathetic pictures that filled the world with pity for what cruelty, ignorance or neglect may inflict upon the young. And Newman Noggs ushered in that class of the creatures of his fancy in which he took himself perhaps the most delight, and which the oftener he dealt with the more he seemed to know how to vary and render attractive;, gentlemen by nature however shocking bad their hats or ungenteel their dialects; philoso- phers of modest endurance, and needy but most respectable coats- a sort of humble angels of sympathy and self-denial, though without a particle of splendour or even good looks about them, except what an eye as fine as their own feelings might discern. "My friends " wrote Sydney Smith, describing to Dickens the anxiety of some ladies of his acquaintance to meet him at dinner, "have not the smallest objection to be put into a number, but on the contrary 38o The Life of Charles Dickens m would be proud of the distinction; and Lady Char lotte, in particular, you may marry to Newman Noggs." Lady Charlotte was not a more real person to Sydney than Newman Noggs; and all the world whom Dickens attracted to his books could draw from them the same advantage as the man of wit and genius. It has been lately objected that humanity is not seen in them in its highest or noblest types, and the assertion may hereafter be worth considering; bat what is very certain, is that they have inculcated humanity in familiar and engaging forms to thousands and tens of thousands of their readers, who can hardly have failed each to make his little world around him somewhat the better for their teaching. From first to last they were never for a moment alien to either the sympathies or the under- standings of any class; and there were crowds of people at this time that could have not told you what imagination meant, who were adding month by month to their limited stores the boundless gains of imagination, . . . Of such notices as his letters give of his progress with Nickleby, which occupied him from February 1838 to October 1839, something may now be said. Soon after the agreement for it was signed, before the Christmas of 1837 was over, he went down into Yorkshire with Mr. Hablot Browne to look up the Cheap Schools in that county to which public attention had been painfully drawn by a law case in the previous year; which had before been notorious for cruelties com- mitted in them, whereof he had heard as early as in his childish days; and which he was bent upon destroying if he could. I soon heard the result of his journey; and the substance of that letter, returned to him for the purpose, is in his preface to the story written for the collected edition. He came back confirmed in his design, and in February set to work upon his first chapter. On his birthday he wrote to me. "I have begun 1 I wrote four slips last night, so you see the beginning is made. And what is more, I can go on: so I hope the book is in training at last." "The first chapter of Nicholas is done," he wrote two days later. "It took time, but I think answers the purpose as well as it could." Then, after a dozen days more: "I wrote twenty slips of Nicholas yesterday, left only four to do this morning (up at 8 o'clock, too!), and have ordered my horse at one." I joined him as he expected, and we read together at dinner that day the first number of Nicholas Nickleby. In the following number there was a difficulty which it was marvellous should not have occurred to him in this form of publica- tion. "I could not write a line till three o'clock," he says, describing the close of that number, "and have yet five slips to finish, and don't know what to put in them, for I have reached the point I meant to leave off with." He found easy remedy for such a miscalculation at his outset, and it was nearly his last as well as first misadventure of the kind: his constant difficulty in Pickwick, as he said repeatedly, having been not the running short but the running over: not the whip but the drag that v/as wanted. Sufflaminandus erat, as Ben irticular, )t a more Id whom he same objected -^pes, and t is very- liar and readers, I around ast they le under- ;his time ho were gains of Sfickkby, mething 3, before lire with junty to se in the ies com- childish . I soon ,t letter, • written ign, and hday he you see lope the 3 done," vers the 'I wrote morning I joined day the it was publica- scribing id don't leant to ation at nture of eatedly, not the as Ben The Life of Charles Dickens Jonson said of Shakespeare. And in future works, with such marvellous nicety could he do always what he had planned, strictly within the space available, that I can only remember two other similar instances. The third number introduced the school; and "I remain dissatisfied until you have seen and read number three," was his way of announcing to me his o'-n satisfaction with that first handling of Dotheboys Hall. Nor had it the least part in my admira- tion of his powers at this time, that he never wrote without the printer at his heels; that, always in his latest works two or three numbers in advance, he was never a single number in advance with this story; that the more urgent the call upon him the more readily he rose to it; and that his astonishing animal spirits never failed him. As late as the 20th in the November month of 1838, he thus wrote to me: "I have just begun my second chapter; cannot go out to-night; must get on; think there will be a Nickleby at the end of this month now (I doubted it before); and want to make a start towards it if I possibly can." That was on Tuesday; and on Friday morning in the same week, explaining the sudden failure of something that had been promised the previous day, he says: "I was writing incessantly until it was time to dress; and have not yet got the subject of my last chapter, which must be finished to-night." But this was not all. Between that Tuesday and Friday an indecent assault had been committed on his book by a theatrical adapter named Stirling, who seized upon it without leave while yet only a third of it was written; hacked, cut and garbled its dialogue to the shape of one or two favourite actors; invented for it a plot and an ending of his own, and produced it at the Adelphi; where the outraged author, hard pressed as he was with an unfinished number, had seen it in the interval between the two letters I have quoted. He would not have run such a risk in later years, but he threw ofi lightly at present even such offences to his art; and though I was with him at a representation of his Oliver Twist the following month at the Surrey Theatre, when in the middle of the first scene he laid himself down upon the floor in a corner of the box and never rose from it until the drop-scene fell, he had been able to sit through Nickleby, and to see a merit in parts of the representation. Mr. Yates had a sufficiently humorous meaning in his wildest extravagance, and Mr. O. Smith could put into his queer angular oddities enough of a han! dry pathos to conjure up shadows at least of Mantalini and Newman Noggs; of Ralph Nickleby there was only a wig, a spencer and a pair of boots, but a quaint actor named Wilkinson proved equal to the drollery^ though not to the fierce brutality of Squeers; and even Dickens, in the letter that amazed me by telling me of his visit to the theatre, was able to praise "the skilful management and dressing of the boys] the capital manner and speech of Fanny Squeers, the dramatic representation of her card-party in Squeers's parlour, the careful making-up of all the people, and the exceedingly good tableaux formed from Brovme's sketches. . . . Mrs. Keeley's first appearance Ml :^ m i I j 382 The Life of Charles Dickens beside the fire (see woUum), and all the rest of Smike, was excellent; bating sundry choice sentiments and rubbish regarding the little rol'ns in the fields which have been put in the boy's mouth by Mr. Sti. .ng the adapter." His toleration could hardly be extended to the robins, and their author he properly punished by introducing and denouncing him at Mr. Crummles's farewell sapper. . . . The close of the story was written at Broadstairs, from which (he had taken a house "two doors from the Albion Hotel, where we had that merry night two years ago") he wrote to me on 9 September, 1839. "I am hard at it, but these windings-up wind slowly, and I shall think I have done great things if I have entirely finished by the 2oth. Chapman and Hall came down yesterday with Browne's sketches, and dined here. They imparted their intentions as to a Nicklebeian fdte which will make you laugh heartily — so I reserve them till you come. It has been blowing great guns for the last three days, and last night (I wish you could have seen it !) there was such a sea! I staggered down to the pier and, creeping under the lee of a large boat which was high and dry, watched it breaking for nearly an hour. Of course I came back wet through." On the afternoon of Wednesday the i8th he wrote again. "I shall not finish entirely before Friday, sending Hicks the last twenty pages of manuscript by the night coach. I have had pretty stiff work as you may suppose, and I have taken ,great pains. The discovery is made, Ralph is dead, the loves have come all right, Tim Linkinwater has proposed, and I have now only to break up Dotheboys and the book together. I am very anxious that you should see this conclusion before it leaves my hands, and I plainly see therefore that I must come to town myself on Saturday if I would not endanger the appearance of the number. So I have written to Hicks to send proofs to your chambers as soon as he can that evening; and if you doi:'t object I will dine with you any time after five, and we will devote the night to a careful reading. I have not written to Macready, for they have not yet sent me the title-page of dedication, which is merely To W. C. Macready Esq. the following pages are inscribed, as a slight token of admiration and regard, by his friend the Author.' Meanwhile will you let him know that I have fixed the Nickleby dinner 'for Saturday, the 5th of October. Place, the Albion in Aldersgate Street. Time, six for half- past exactly. ... I shall be more glad than I can tell you to see you again, and I look forward to Saturday, and the evenings that are to follow it, with the most joyful anticipation. I have had a good notion for Barnaby, of which more anon." The shadow from the old quarter, we see, the unwritten Barnaby tale, intrudes itself still; though hardly, as of old, making other pleasanter anticipations less joyful. Such indeed at this time was his buoyancy of spirit that it cost him little, compared with the suffering it gave him at subsequent similar times, to separate from the people who for twenty months had been a part of himself, . . . excellent; the little th by Mr. led to the icing and which (he re we had jptembcr, ly, and I ed by the Browne's s as to a I reserve last three ^as such a e lee of a nearly an ;moon of 1 entirely iscript by pose, and dead, the nd I have am very ny hands, nyself on [iber. So I s soon as 1 you any eading. I it me the T Esq. the ition and dm know le 5th of for half- ou to see ings that id a good Barnahy ing other le was his suffering he people The Life of Charles Dickens DURING AND AFTER "nICKLEBY 1838 and 1839 The name of his old gallery companion may carry me back from the days to which .he close of Nichleby had led me, to those \ aen it was only beginning. "This snow will take away the cold weather " he had written, in that birthday-letter of 1838 already quoted, "and then for Twickenham." Here a cottage was taken, nearly all the summer was passed, and a familiar face there was Mr. Beard's. There too. with Talfourd and with Thackeray and Jerrold, we had many friendly days; and the social charm of Maclise was seldom wanting. Nor was there anything that exercised a greater fascination over Dickens than the grand enjoyment of idleness, the ready self-abandonment to the luxury of laziness, which we both so laughed at in Maclise, under whose easy swing of indifference, always the most amusing at the most aggravating events and times, we knew that there was artist-work as eager, energy as unwearying, and observation almost as penetrating as Dickens's own. A greater enjoyment than the fellowship of Maclise at this period it would indeed be difficult to imagine. Dickens hardly saw more than he did, while yet he seemed to be seeing nothing; and the small esteem in which this rare faculty was held by himself, a quaint odditv thr shrewdness itself an air of Irish simplicity for literature, and a varied knowledge of bt with such intense love and such unweariv and absorbing art, combined to render him . common. His fine genius and his handsomv which at any time he seemed himself to be in tuu -..„ .. ^^^.^^ conscious, completed the charm. Edwin Landseer, all the world's favourite, and the excellent Stanfield, came a few months later, in the Devonshire Terrace days; but another painter-friend was George Cattermole, who had then enough and to spare of fun as well as fancy to supply ordinary artists and humorists by the dozen, and wanted only a little more ballast a^d steadiness to possess all that could give attraction to good-fellowship. A friend now especially welcome, also, was the novelist, Mr. Ainsworth. who shared with us incessantly for the three following years in the companionship which began at his house; with whom we visited, during two of those years, friends of art and letters in his native Manchester, from among whom Dickens brought away his Brothers Chee^yble. and to whose sympathy in tastes and pursuits, accomplishments in literature, open-hearted generous wa^s, and cordial hospitality, many of cba in him gave to uestionable turn •ays connected * one special beyond the f neither of -xjjiitest degree 384 The Life of Charles Dickens Sfter nfit ''Jlf^' ^'^'f T'.^. ^"*'- Pred^"ck Dickens, to whom soon after tins a treasury-clerkship was handsomely giver, r: Dickens's tFFlTT-^^ ^'- ^^"'^y "^ ^"'^^^'^y- J^""^" •" and before those Manchester days, was for the present again living with his father but passed much time in his brother's home; and anothci Smillr f^ce was that of Mr. Thomas Mitton. who had known him when himself a IZ'rlT.^- *" ^T^°i":« I""' through whom there was introduction of ^nL.rf!r%K^v ^7^u^ ^"^ P^^'"^^' ^'- Smithson. the gentleman connected with YorkGhire. mentioned in his preface to Nickleby who became very mtimate in his house. These, his father and mother anS their two younger sons, with members of his wife's family, and his married sisters and their husbands. Mr. and Mrs. Burnett and Mr ?nfi ";>, .k'*T' ""'^/tS^'^^ that all associate themselves promin^ har^i^anH P^' ^u^' °* ^^"^^^^ ^^'''^ ^"^ *^« ^«ttages of Twicken- and 183^ ^*''"^™ ^' remembered by me in the summers of 1838 In the former of these years the spoi ts were necessarily quieter than nih w " ' J^.^^""*" r*^"'^^^ garden-grounds admitted of much ainir f ^^'fPt^t^^"'. f^-" the more difficult forms of which I in general modestly retired, but where Dickens for the most part held R^rrS^^'f * ^"'^^ such accomplished athleties as Maclise and Mr. ±ieard Bar-leaping, bowling and quoits were among the games carried on with th. greatest ardour; and in custaineJenfrgy^^^^^ IS called keeping it up. Dickens certainly distanced every competitor Even the lighter recreations of battledore and bagatelle were pursued ratslnU're^;'^"^*^^^^ ^? ^ ^^^ amusements as the Pefersham whn!'/i? ^ ! ?r '"^^^^'^ celebrated, and which he visited daily horses dfd^ ' ^"""^""^ '^'"'^ ^^'^'^ ^^™^"^^ *^^^ the running What else his letters of these years enable me to recall that could possess any mterest now rnay be told in a dozen sentences. He wrote a farce by way of helping the Covent Garden manager which the ttoZV.Z^?^'?^'lr^r'' ^"^ ^^^^^ ^' *"^"^d aftfrwaTds' nto a ?£T.^ ^ ^^' /-.am/,/^^;,/,^. He re-^.d the piece at the theatre, before H^lrtT ^*';i?^-"^a?agt^ to whom he had written to request a very different audience in the same green-room a few years before- and Dickens could not but fancy that into Mr. Bartley's face as he listened to the humorous reading, there crept some strTnge^wildered half-consciousness that in the famous writer he saw agahi S^youth nr ofTe'Midd I't"' T'ti'^ ^^\^""^^ ^"^^^^ ^^^ Ldents^t the mL^ Middle Temple, though he did not eat dinners there until many years later. We made together a circuit of nearly all the London prisons; and m coming to ae prisoners under remLd while going w7re ^iTJuA'"'''''''^^.^!'^'^ ^y Macready and Mr. Hablot Browne wXh?f^Tnl7 K rvf"^^"" ?^P^ ""^y ^^ "My <^°^' there's Wrine^ Tni hL the shabby-genteel creature, with sandy distorted hair SIre^t^,r."n^S'n ' T^° -^^ ^^"'^^ ^"^"^^y ^^^^d ^ith a defiant stare ut our entrance, looKmg at once mean and fierce, and quite k whom soon on Dickens's before those is father, but familiar lace fien himself a troduction of kc gentleman Hckleby, who 1 mother and nily, and his lett and Mr. Ives promin- of Twicken- ners of 1838 quieter than ted of much ' which I in >st part held :lise and Mr. the games rgy, or what competitor. reie pursued ; Petersham 'Isited daily the running 1 that could !S. He wrote r which the vards into a atre, before uest a very before; and face, as he i bewildered the youth- lents at the there until the London while going ot Browne, e's Wt ine- torted hair h a defiant and quite The Life of Charles Dickens 36«; capable of the cowardly murders he had committed, Macready ;. been horri^ed to recognise a man familiarly known to him in fr mer years, and at whose table he haJ dined. . . . The closhig months of this year o* 1839 had special interest for him. At the end of October another daught-jr was born to him. who bears the name of that dear friend of hi3 and mine, Macready, whom he asked to be her godfather; and before the close of the year he had moved out of Doughty Street into Devonshire Terrace, a liandsome house with a garden of considerable size, shut out from the New Road by a high bnck-wall facing the York gate into Regent's Park. These various matters, and his attempts at the Barnaby novel on the conclusion of Nicklehy. are the subj'-cts of his letters between October and Decem- ber. "Thank God. all goes famously. I have worked at Barnaby all day. and moreover seen a beautiful (and reasonable) house in Kent Terrace, where Macready once lived, but larger than his." Aga>u (this having gone off): "Barnaby has suffered 30 much from the house-hunting, that I mus*-n't chop to-day." Then (for the matter of vhe Middle Temple) "I return the form. It's the right Temple. I take for granted. Barnaby mov^s, not at race-horse speed, but -..': as fast (I think) as under these unsettled circumstances could ( :,3ibly be expected." Or again: 'All well. Barnaby has reached his tenth page. I have just turned lazy, and have passed into Christabel. and thence to Wallens/em:' At last the choice was made. "A house of great proiiiise (and great premium), 'undeniable' situation and excessive splendour, is in view. Mitton is in tre- y, and I am in ecstatic rest- lessness. Kate wants to know whether you have any books to send her, so please to shoot here any literary rubbish on hand." To these I will only add a couple of extracts from his letters while in Exeter arranging his father's and mother's new home. They are pleasantly written; and the vividness with which everything, once seen, was photographed in his mind and memory, is humoroubly shown in them. "I took a little house for them this morning "(5 March, 1839: from the New London Inn), "and if they are not pleased with it I shall be grievcisly disappointed. Exactly a mile beyond the city on the Plymouth road there are two white cottages: one is theirs and the other belongs to their landlady. I almost forget the number of rooms; but there is jan excellent parlour with two other rooms on the ground floor, there is really a beautiful little room over the parlour which I ani furnishing as a drawing-room, and there is a splendid garden. The paint and paper throughout are new and fresh and cheerful-looking, the place is clean beyond all description, and the neighbourhood I suppose the most beautiful in this most beautiful of English counties. Of the landlady, a Devonshire widow with whom I had the honour of taking lunch to-day, I must make most especial mention. She is a fat, infirm, splendidly fresh-faced country dame, rising sixty and recovering from an attack 'on the nerves' — I thought they 331 1^1 P, m Yt' 386 The Life of Charles Dickens never went off the stones, but I find they try country air with the best of us. In the event of my mother's being ill at any time, I really think the vicinity of this good dame, the very picture of respectability and good humour, will be the greatest possible comfort. Her furniture and do:-.estic arrangements are a capital picture, but that I reserve till I see you, when I anticipate a hearty laugh. She bears the highest character with the bankers and the clergyman (who formerly lived in my cottage himself), and is a kind-hearted worthy capital specimen of the sort of life, or I have no eye for the real and no idea of finding it out. "This good lady's brother and his wife live in the next nearest cot- tage, and the brother transacts the good lady's business, the nerves not admitting of her transacting it herself, although they leave her in her debilitated state something sharper than the finest lancet. Now the brother, having coughed all night till he coughed himself into such a perspiration that you might have 'wringed his hair,' according to the asseveration of eye-witnesses, his wife was sent for to negotiate with me; and if you could have seen me sitting in the kitchen with the two old women, endeavouring to make them comprehend that I had no evil intentions or covert designs, and that I had come down all that way to take some cottage and had happened to walk down that road and see that particular one, you would never have forgotten it. Then, to see the servant-girl run backwards anji forwards to the sick man, and when the sick man had signed one agreement which I drew up and the old woman in^itantly put away in a disused tea-caddy, to see the trouble and the number of messages it took before the sick man could be brought to sign another (a duplicate) that we might have one apiece, was one of the richest scraps of genuine drollery I ever saw in all my days. How, when the business was over, we became conversational: how I was facetious, and at the same time virtuous and domestic; how I drank toasts in the beer, and stated on interro- gatory that I was a married man and the f.-.ther of two blessed infants; how the ladies marvelled thereat; how one of the ladies, having been in London, inquired where I lived, and, being told, remembered that Doughty Street and the Foundling Hospital were in the Old Kent Road, which I didn't contradict—all this and a great deal more must make us laugh when I return, as it makes me laugh now to think of. Of my subsequent visit to the upholsterer recommended by the land- lady; of the absence of the upholsterer's wife, and the timidity of the upholsterer fearful of acting in her absence; of my sitting behind a high desk in a little dark shop, calling over the articles in requisition and checking off the prices as the upholsterer exhibited the goods and called them out; of my coming over the upholsterer's daughter, with many virtuous endearments, to propitiate the establishment and reduce the bill; of these matters I say nothing, either, for the same reason as that just r^entioned. The discovery of the cottage I seriously regard as a blessing (not to speak it profanely) upon our efforts in this cause. I had heard nothing from the bank, and walked straight there. The Life of Charles Dickens 387 by some strange impulse, directly after breakfast. I am sure thev may be happy there; for if I were older, and my course of activity were run. I am sure / could, with God's blessing, for many and many a year. ... •' "The theatre is open here, and Charles Kean is to-night playing for hi. last mght. If It had been the 'rig'lar' drama I should have gJne^but I was afraid Sir Giles Overreach might upset me. so I stay! d away My quarters are excellent and the head waiter is such\ waiter' Knowles (not Sheridan Knowles. but Knowles of the Cheetham Hill Road) is an ass to him. This sounds bold, but truth is stranger than fiction. By the by. not the least comical thing that has occurred was the visit ot the upholsterer (with some further calculations) smce I began this letter. I think they took me here at the Iscw- i;?H rf "i°'' the Wonderful Being I am; they were amazingly sedulous; and no doubt they looked for my being visited by the nobility and gentry of the neighbourhood. My first and only visitor came to-nirht- A ruddy-faced man m faded black, with extracts from a feather-bed all over him; an extraordinary and quite miraculously dkty face- a thick stick; and the personal appearance altogether of an amiable baihflE m a green old age. I have not seen the proper waiter since, and more than suspect I shall not recover this blow. He was announced [hy the waiter) as a person.' I expect my bill every minute. .V,- ^^!^^'?*^/^ 1? laughing outside the door with another wkiter— this IS the latest intelligence of my condition." VI NEW LITERARY PROJECT 1839 The time was now come for him seriously to busy himself with a successor to Pickwick and Nicklehy, which he had not. however v^ /A ' long before turning over thoroughly in his mind! ^licklebys success had so far outgone even the expectation raised by P^ckwtcks that, without some handsome practical admission of this fact at the close, its publishers could hardly hope to retain him. This had been frequently discussed by us. and was well understood But 2f ?Tu* Sr!*'""^ ?* ''^^ resuming with them at all. he had persuaded himself it might be unsafe to resume in the old way believing the public likely to tire of the same twenty numbers over again Ihere was also another and more sufficient reason for change which naturally had ereat wpi^hf wifh )iir«. ^^a 4.1,: xi. _ , ^ ' that, by invention of a new mode as well as kind of serial publication he might be able for a time to discontinue the writing of a long story .! ■ll S i 588 The Life of Charles Dickens with all its strain on his fancy, or in any case to shorten and vary the length of the stories written by himself, and perhaps ultimately to retain all the profits of a continuous publication, without necessarily himself contributing every line that was to be written for it. These considerations had been discussed still more anxiously; and for several months some such project had been taking form in his thoughts. While he was at Petersham (July 1839) he thus wrote to me: "I have been thinking that subject over. Indeed I have been doing so to the great stoppage of Nickleby and the great worrying and fidgetting of myself. I have been thinking that if Chapman and Hall were to admit you into their confidence with respect to what they mean to do at the conclusion of Nickleby, without admitting me, it would help us very much. You know that I am well-disposed towards them, and that if they do something handsome, even handsomer perhaps than they dreamt of doing, they will find it their interest, and will find me tractable. You know also that I have had straightforward offers from responsible men to publish anything for me at a percentage on the profits, and take all the risk, but that I am unwilling to leave them, and have declared to you th^t if they behave with liberality to me I will not on any consideration, although to a certain extent I certainly and surely must gain by it. Knowing all this, I feel sure that if you were to put before them the glories of our new project, and, reminding them that when Barnaby is published I am clear of all engagements, were to tell them that, if they wish to secure me and perpetuate our connection, now is the time for them to step gallantly forward and make such proposals as will produce that result — I feel quite sure that if this should be done by you, as you only can do it, the result will be of the most vital importance to me and mine, and that a great deal may be effected, thus, to recompense your friend for very, small profits and very large work as yet. I shall see you, please God, on Tuesday night; and if they wait upon you on Wednesday, I shall re- main in town until that evening." They came; and the tenor of the interview was so favourable that I wished him to put in writing what from time to time had been discussed in connection with the new project. This led to the very interesting letter I shall now quote, written also in the same month from Peter- sham. I did not remember, until I lately read it, that the notion of a possible visit to America had been in his thoughts so early. "1 should be willing to commence on the thirty-first of March, 1 840, a new publication consisting entirely of original matter, of which one number price threepence should be published every week, and of which a certain amount of numbers should form a volume, to be published at regular intervals. The best general idea of the plan of the work might be given perhaps by reference to The Taller, The Spectator, and Goldsmith's Bee, but it would be far more popular both in the subjects of which it treats and its mode of treating them. "I should propose to start, as The Spectator does, with some pleas- antfiction relative to theorigin of the publication; to introduce sJitXle id vary the timately to necessarily )r it. These [ for several ughts. ! to me: "I doing so to 1 fidgetting all were to mean to do »vould help them, and rhaps than v^ill find me offers from :age on the save them, ity to me I I certainly that if you reminding jagements, )etuate our •rward and quite sure ; result will L great deal v^ery. small se God, on I shall re- able that I n discussed interesting rom Peter- notion of a of March, jr, of which sek, and of ime, to be plan of the e Spectator, ►oth in the lome pleas- iuceeJittle The Life of Charles Dickens 389 dub or knot of characters and to carry their personal histories and proceedings through the work; to introduce fresh characters con- stantly; to reintroduce Mr. Pickwick and Sam Weller, the latter of whom might furnish an occasional communication with great effect- to write amusmg essays on the various foibles of the day as thev arise- to take advantage of all passing events; and to vary the form of the papers by throwmg them into sketches, essays, tales, adventures letters froni imaginary correspondents and so forth, so as to diversify the contents as much as possible. vcxsiiy ' In addition to this general design, I may add that under part ular heads I should strive to establish certain features in the work which the whole ^"^ ""^"^ ''^'"^ "^^ interest and amusement running through "The heads of th« terms upon which I should be prepared co go mto the underirakinf, ould be-That I be made a proprietor in the work and a sharer m the profits. That when I bind myself to write a certain portion of every number, I am ensured, for that writing in every number a certain sum of money. That those who assist me and contribute the remainder of every number, shall be paid by the oub- hshers immediately after its appearance, according to a scale to be calculated and agreed upon, on presenting my order for the amount to •li?. i!^ ""^^ ^1 respectively entitled. Or, if the publishers prefer It, that they agree to pay me a certain sum for the whole of every num- ber, and leave me to make such arrangements for that part which I may not write, as I think best. Of course I should require that for these payments, or any other outlay connected with the vvork I am not held accountable in any way; and that no portion of them is to be considered as received by me on account of the profits. I need not add that some arrangement would have to be made, if I undertake my 1 ravels, relative to the expenses of travelling. ^ **Now I want our publishing friends to take these things into con- sideration, and to give me the views and proposals they would be dis- posed to entertain when they have maturely considered the matter " An on/r "" ,''i..*^^'^''''"i'^f ^^^^'^ "^^^ °^ *^^ ^hole satisfactory. An additional fifteen hundred pounds was to be paid at the close oi h.ickxby, the new adventure was to be undertaken, and Cattermole was to be joined with Browne as its illustrator. Nor was its plan much modified be. ore starting, though itwas felt byus all that,for the ooen- ing nunibers at least, Dickens would have to be sole contributor- n?i ^ ; '^^^*^^^^ otherwise might be its attraction, or the success ot the detached papers proposed by nim, some reinforcement of them from time to time, by means of a story with his name continued at reasonable if not regular intervals, would be found absolutely Six weeks before signature of the agreement, while a title was still undetcrmmed, I had this letter from him. -T will dine with you I intended to spend the evening in strict meditation (as I did last nightV but perhaps I had better go out, lest all work and no play should make m v 1 ^ ) \ : s f 390 The Life of Charles Dickens me a dull boy. / have a list of titles too, but the final title I have de- termined on — or something very near it. I have a notion of this old file in the queer house, opening the book by an account of himself, and, among other peculiarities, of his affection for an old quaint queer- cased clock; showing how that when they have sat alone together in the long evenings, he has got accustomed to its voice, and come to consider it as the voice of a friend; how its striking, in the night, has seemed like an assurance to him that it was still a cheerful watcher at his chamber-door; and how its very face has seemed to have some- thing of welcome in its dusty features, and to relax from its grimness when he has looked at it from his chimney-corner. Then I mean to tell how that he has kept odd manuscripts in the old, deep, dark, silent closet where the weights are; and taken them from thence to read (mixing up his enjoyments with some notion of his clock); and how, when the club came to be formed, they, by reason of their punctuality and his regard for his dumb servant, took their name from it. And thus I shall call the book either Old Humphrey's Clock; or Master Humphrey's Clock; beginning with a woodcut of old Humphrey and his clock, and explaining the why and wherefore. All Humphrey's own papers will then be dated From my clockside, and I have divers thoughts about the best means of introducing the others. I thought about this all day yesterday and all last night till I went to bed. I am sure I can make a good thing of this opening, which I have thoroughly warmed up to in consequence . " A few days later: "I incline more to Master Humphrey's Clock than Old Humphrey's — if so be that there is no danger of the Pensive con- founding master with a boy." After twodavs more: "I was thinking all yesterday, and have begun at Master Humphrey to-day." Then, a week later: "I have finished the first number, but have not been able to do more in the space than lead up to the Giants, who are just on the scene." VII "old curiosity shop'* 1840 and 1841 A DAY or two after the date of the last letter quoted, Dickens and his wife, with Maclise and myself, visited Landor in Bath, and it was during three happy days passed together there that the fancy which was shortly to take the form of little Nell first occurred to its author. But as yet with the intention only of making out of it a tale of a few chapters. On i March we returned from Bath; and on the 4th I had this letter: "If you can manage to give me a call in the course of the i !,•- ave some- The Life of Charles Dickens 391 day or evening, 1 wish you would. I am laboriously turning over in my mmd how I can best effect the improvement we spoke of last night which I will certainly make by hook or by crook, and which I would like you to see before it goes finally to the printer's. I have determined not to put that witch-story into number 3. for I am by no means satisfied of the effect of its contrast with Humphrey. I think of lengthening Humphrey, finishing the description of the society and closing with the little child-story, which is sure to be effective especially after the old man's quiet way." Then there came hard upon this: "What do you think of the following double title for the beginning of that little tale? 'Personal Adventures of Master Humphrey: The Old Curiosity Shop: I have thought of Master Humphrey's Tale, Master Humphrey's Narrative, A Passage in Master Humphrey's Life—hut I don't think any does as well as this. I have also thought of The Old Curiosity Dealer and the Child instead of I he Old Curiosity Shop. Perpend. Topping waits."— And thus was taking gradual form, with less direct consciousness of design on his own part than I can remember in any other instance throughout his career, a story which was to add largely to his popularity, more than any other of his works to make the bond between himself and his readers one of personal attachment, and very widely to increase the sense of personal attachment, and very widely to increase the sense entertained of his powers as a pathetic as well as humorous writer He had not written more than two or three chapters, when the capability of the subject for more extended treatment than he had at first proposed to give to it pressed itself upon him and he resolved to throw everything else aside, devoting himself to the one story only. There were other strong reasons for this. Of the first number of the Clock nearly seventy thousand were sold; but with the discovery that there was no continuous tale the orders at once dim- inished, and a change must have been made even if the material and means for it had not been ready. There had been an interval of three numbers between the first and second chapters, which the society .. A . ^"^^^^^ ^^^ *^® *^° Wellers made pleasant enough; but alter the introduction of Dick Swiveller there were three consecutive chapters; and in the continued progress of -.he tale to its close there were only two more breaks, one between the fourth and fifth chap- ters and one between the eight and ninth, pardonable and enjoyable now for the sake of Sam and his father. The re-introduction of those old favourites, it will have been seen, formed part of his original plan- of his abandonment of which his own description may be added from his preface to the collected edition. "The first chapter of this tale appeared m the fourth number of Master Humphrey's Clock, when I had already been made uneasy by the desultory character' of that work, and when, I believe, my readers had thoroughly participated .........g. xxiv, -vjiiiiiiciiuciiiciii, VI a acory was a great satisfaction to nie, and I had reason to believe that my readers participated in this feeling too. Hence, being pledged to some interruptions and some 1 1 ; ^ f i [ I if. (i d 392 The Life of Charles Dickens pursuit of the original design, I set cheerfully about disentangling myself from those impediments as fast as I could; and, thi« done, from that time until its completion The Old Curiosity Shop was written and published from week to week, in weekly parts." He had very early himself become greatly taken with it. ' ' I am yery glad indeed," he wrote to me after the first half-dozen chapters, "that you think so well of the Curiosity Shop, and especially that what may be got out of Dick strikes you. I mean to make much of him. I feel the story extremely myself, which I take to be a good sign; and am already warmly interested in it. I shall run it on now for four whole numbers together, to give it a fair chance." Every step lightened the road, as it became more and more real with each character that appeared in it; and I still recall the glee with which he told me what he intended to do not only with Dick Swiveller, but with Septinius Brass, changed afterwards to Sampson. Undoubtedly, however, Dick was his favourite. "Dick's behaviour in the matter of Miss Wackles will, I hope, give you satisfaction," is the remark of another of his letters. "1 cannot yet discover that his aunt has any belief in him, or is in the least degree likely to send him a remittance, so that he will probably continue to be the sport of destiny." His difficulties were the quickly recurring times of publication, the confined space in each number that yet had to contribute its individual effect, and (from the suddenness with which he had begun) the impossibility of getting in advance. "I was obliged to cramp most dreadfully what I thought a pretty idea in the last chapter. I hadn't room to turn": to this oi a similar effect his complaints are frequent, and of the vexations named it was by far the worst. But he steadily bore up against all, and made a triumph of the little story. To help his work he went twice to Broadstairs, in June and in September; and at his first visit (17 June) thus wrote: "It's now four o'clock and I have been at work since half-past eight. I have really dried myself up into a condition which would almost justify me in pitching off tne cliff, head first — but I must get richer before I indulge in a crowning luxury. . . . "At the opening of September he was again at the little v/atering place. The residence he most desired there. Fort House, stood prominently at the top of" a breezy hill on the road to Kingsgate, with a cornfield between it and the sea, and this in many subsequent years he always occupied; but he was fain to be content, as yet, with Law House, a smaller villa between the hill and the corn- field, from which he now wrote of his attentions to Mr. Sampson Brass's sister. "I have been at work of course" (2 September) "and have just finished a number, I have effected a reform by virtue of which we breakfast at a quarter before eight, so that I get to work as half-past, and am commonly free by one o'clock or so, which is a great happiness. Dick is now Sampson's clerk, and I have touched Miss Brass in Number 25, lightly, but effectively I hope." . . . At the opening of November, there seems to have been a wish on Maclise's part to try his hand at an illustration for the story; but I do jentangling thin done, Shop was >> "I am very )ters, "that t what may him. I feel ^n; and am four whole (htened the racter that Id me what li Septimus vever, Dick ss Wackles )ther of his lief in him, so that he :ulties were »ace in each and (from Y of getting 1 1 thought : to this 01 3 vexations against all, une and in 's now four have really stify me in re I indulge e was again there, Fort the road to lis in many be content, id the corn- r, Sampson nber) "and y virtue of ;et to work . which is a ve touched The Life of Charles Dickens 393 I a wish on y; but I do not remember that it bore other fruit than a very pleasant day at Jack Straw's Castle, where Dickens read one of the later numbers to us. Machse and myself (alonie in the carriage)," he wrote, "will be with you at two exactly. We propose driving out to Hampstead and walking there if it don't rain in buckets'-fuU. I shan't send Brad- burys the MS. of next number till to-morrow, for it contains the shadow of the number after that, and I want to read it to Mac as It he likes the subject, it will furnish him with one. I think You can't imagine (gravely I write and speak) how exhausted I am to-day with yesterday's labours. I went to bed last night utterly dispirited and done up. ... j f Fast shortening as the life of little Nell was now, the dying year might have seen it pass away; but I never knew him wind up any tale with such a sorrowful reluctance as this. He caught at any excuse to hold his hand from it, and stretched to the utmost limit the time left to complete it in. . . . He read to me the two chapters of Nell's death, the seventy-first and seventy-second, with the result described in a letter of the following Monday, 17 January, 1841. "I can't help letting you know how much your yesterday's letter pleased me. I felt sure you liked the chapters when we read them on Thursday night, but it was a great delight to have my impression so strongly and heartily confirmed. You know how littl< value I should set on what I had done, if all the world cried out that it was good and those whose good opinion and approbation I value most were silent. The assurance that this little closing of the scene touches and is felt by you so strongly, is better to me than a thousand most sweet voices out of doors. When I first began, on your valued suggestion to keep my thoughts upon this ending of the tale, I resolved to try and do something which might be read by people about whom Death had been, with a softened feeling, and with consolation After you left last night, I took my desk upstairs; and writing until four o'clock this morning, finished the old story. It makes me very melancholy to think that all these people are lost to me for ever, and I feel as if I never could become attached to any new set of characters." The words printed in italics, as underlined by himself, give me my share in the story which had gone so closely to his heart. I was responsible for its tragic ending. He had not thought of killing her, when, about half- way through, : asked him to consider whether it did not necessarily belong even to his own conception, after taking so mere a child through such a tragedy of sorrow, to lift her also out of the common- place of ordinary happy endings, so that the gentle pure little figure and form should never change to the fancy. All that I meant he seized at once, and never turned aside from it again. The published book was an extraordinary success, and, in America more especially, very greatly increased the writer's fame. The pathetic vein it had Or>Pnp>rl wpt! n^rhanc moinlTr 4-\ta. ^n,,^^ ^t xu:_ •L.-j- i_?_^ at home continued still to turn on the old characteristics; the fresh- ness of humour of which the pathos was but another form or product, 331* *. I !■ ( I 394 The Life of Charles Dickons the grasp of reality with which character had again been seized, the discernment of good under its least attractive forms and of evil in its most captivating disguises, the cordiat wisdom and sound heart, the enjoyment at^d fun, luxuriant yet under proper control. No falling-off was found in these, and I doubt if any of his ptople have been more widely liked than Dick Swiveller and the Marchioness. ... VIII DEVONSHIRE TERRACE AND BROADSTAIRS 1840 It was an excellent saying of the first Lord Shaftesbury, that, seeing every man of any capacity holds within himself two men, the wise and the foolish, each of them ought freely to be allowed his turn; and it was one of the secrets of Dickens's social charm that he could, in strict accordance with this saying, allow each part of him its turn; could afford thoroughly to give rest and relief to what was serious in him, and, when the time came to play his gambols, could surrender him- self wholly to the enjoyment of the time, and become the very genius and embodiment of one of his own most whimsical fancies. Turning back from the narrative of his last piece of writing to recall a few occurrences of the year during which it had occupied him, I find him at its opening in one of these humorous moods, and another friend, with myself, enslaved by its influence. "What on earth does it all mean!" wrote poor puzzled Mr. Landor to me, enclosing a letter from him of the date 11 February, the day after the royal nuptials of that year. In this he had related to our old friend a wonderful halluci- nation arising out of that event, which had then taken entire pos- session of him. "Society is unhinged here," thus ran the letter, "by her TTiajesty's marriage, and I am sorry to add that I have fallen hope- lessly in love with the Queen, and wander up and down with vague and dismal thoughts of running away to some uninhabited island with a maid of honour, to be entrapped by conspiracy for that pur- pose. Can you suggest any particular young person, serving in such a capacity, who would suit me? It is too much perhaps to ask you to join the band of noble youths (Forster is in it, and Maclise) who are to assist me in this great enterprise, but a man of your energy would be invaluable. I have my eye upon Lady . . ., principally because she is very beautiful, and has no strong brothers. Upon this, and other points of the scheme, however, we will confer more at large when we meet; and meanwhile bum this document, that no suspicion may arise or The maid of honour and the uninhabited island were flights of The Life of Charles Dickens 395 fancy, but the other daring delusion was for a time encouraRed to such whimsical lengths, not alone by him but ( under his influence) bv the two friends named, that it took the wildest forms of humorous extravagance; and of the private confidences much interchanged a«» well as of his own style of open speech in which the joke of a despkir'- ing unfitness for any further use or enjoyment of life was unflagginKly kept up, to the amazement of bystanders knowing nothing of what it meant and believing he had half lost his senses, I permit myself to give from his letters one further illustration. "I am utterly lost in misery, he writes on 12 February, "and can do nothing. I have been reading Ohver, Ptckmck and Nichlehy tc get my thoughts together tor the new effort, but all m vain: My heart is at Windsor, My heart isn't here; My heart is at Windsor, A following my dear. I saw the Responsibilities this morning, and burst into tears The presence of iny wife aggravates me. I loathe my parents. I detest my house. I begm to have thoughts of the Serpentine, of the Regent's Canal, of the razors upstairs, of the chemist's down the street of poisoning myself at Mrs. 's table, of hanging myself upon the Dear-tree in the garden, of abstaining from food and starving myself to death, of being bled for my cold and tearing off the bandage of fallmg u^-^er the feet of cab-horses in the New Road, of murdering Chapman and Hall and becoming great in story(SHE must hear some- thing of me then— perhaps sign the warrant: or is that a fable?) of turning Chaxtist. of heading some bloody assault upon the palace and savmg Her by my single hand of being anything but what I have WnH^r n "^l^"^f?^^ but what I have done. Your distracted tnend, CD. The wild derangement of asterisks in every shape and form, with which this incoherence closed, cannot be given Some ailments which dated from an earlier period in his life made themselves felt in the spring of the year, as I remember, and increased horse exercise was strongly recommended to him. "I find it will be positively necessary to go. for five days in the week at least " he wrote in March 'on a perfect regimen of diet and exercise, and am anxious not to delay treating for a horse." We were now, therefore when he was not at the seaside, much, on horseback in suburban lanes and roads; and the spacious garden of his new house was also turned to healthful use at even his busiest working times. I mark this, too. as the time when the first ol his ravens took up residence; and as the begmmng of disputes with two of his neighbours about the smoking of the stable chimney, which his groom Topping, a highW absurd little man with flaming redhair, so complicated by Scret devices of his own. meant to conciliate each complainant alternately and having a,,^r^~T".V;"*i^Vf V5 D^"x. mat law proceeaings were only barely avoided. I shall give you." he writes, "my latest report of the 30 The Life of Charles Dickens chimney in the form of an address from Topping, made t '^ me on our way from little Hall's at Norwood the other night, where he and Chapman and I had been walking all day, while Topping drove Kate, Mrs. Hall, and her sisters, to Dulwich. Topping had been regaled upon the premises, and was just drunk enough to be confidential. 'Beggin' your pardon, sir, but the genelman next door sir, seems to be gettin' quite comfortable and pleasant about the chimley.' — ' I don't think he is. Topping.' — 'Yes he is sir I think. He comes out in the yard this morning and says Coachman he says' (observe the vision of a great large fat man called up by the word) 'is that your raven he says Coachman? or is it Mr. Dickens's raven? he says. My master's sir, I says. ^Vell, he says, it's a fine bird. I think the chimley 'ill do notu Coachman, — nowthejint's taken off the pipe he says. I hope it will, sir, I says; my master's a genelman as wouldn't annoy no genelman if he could help it, I'm sure; and my own missis is so afraid of havin' a bit o' fire that o' Sundays our little bit o' weal or what not, goes to the baker's a purpose. — Damn the chimley Coachman, he says, it's a smokin' now. — It an't a smokin' your way sir, I says; Well, he says, no more it is, Coachman, and as long as it smokes anybody else's way, it's all right and I'm agreeable.' Of course I shall now have the man from the other side upon me, and very likely with an action of nuis- ance for smoking into his conservatory." A graver incident, which occurred to him also among his earliesc experiences as tenant of Devonshire Terrace, illustrates too well the practical turn of his kindness and humanity not to deserve relation. He has himself described it, in one of his minor writings, in setting down what he remembered as the only good that ever came of a beadle. 'Of that great parish functionary," he remarks, "having newly taken the lease of a house in a certain distinguished metro- politan parish, a house which then appeared to me to be a frightfully first-class family mansion involving awful responsibilities, I became the prey." In other words he was summoned, and obliged to sit, as juryman at an inquest on the body '^f a little child alleged to have been murdered by its mother; of which the result was, by his per- severing exertion, seconded by the humane help of the coroner, Mr. Wakley, the verdict of himself and his fellow- jurymen charged her only with the concealment of birth. "The poor desolate creature dropped upon her knees before us with protestations that we were right (protestations amoixg the most affecting that I have ever heard in my life), and was carried away insensible. I caused some extra care to be taken of her in the prison, and counsel to be retained for her defence when she was tried at the Old Bailey; and her sentence was lenient, and her history and conduct proved that it was right." How much he felt the little incident, at the actual time of its occurrence, may be judged from the few lines written next morning: "Whether it was the poor baby, or its poor mother, or the coffin, or my fellow- inrizm*»T» o'*' 'wV»a+ nni- T 0311'+ sair bu'^ la^J^ ■nicrhi- T ViaH a TYincf irirjio-nf attack of sickness and indigestion, which not only prevented me from me on our jre he and rove Kate, galed upon il. ' Beggin' ) be gettin' I't think he 9 yard this of a great en he says iter's sir, 1 'ill do now it will, sir, 2lman if he lavin' a bit goes to the ays, it's a II, he says, else's way, 'e the man on of nuis- liis earliest 30 well the re relation. , in setting came of a s, "having led metro- frightfully , I became d to sit, as ed to have yy his per- )roner, Mr. harged her ;e creature it we were ever heard I extra care led for her titence was ght." How )ccurrence, Whether it my fellow- lOSt violfiTit 3d me from The Life of Charles Dickens 397 sleeping, but even from lying down. Accordingly Kate and I sat up through the dreary watches." The day of the first publication of Master Humphrey (Saturday, 4 April) had by this time come, and, according to the rule observed ia his two other great ventures, he left town with Mrs. Dickens on Friday the 3rd. With Maclise we had been together at Richmond the previous night; and I joined him at Birmingham the day foUowii-g, with news of the sale of the whole sixty thousand copies to which the first working bad been limited, and of orders already in hand for ten thousand more ! The excitement of the success somewhat lengthened our holiday; and, after visiting Shakespeare's house at Stratford, and Johnson's at Lichfield, we found our resources so straitened in return- ing, that, employing as our messenger of need his younger brother Alfred, who had joined us from Tamworth where he w.as a student- engineer, we had to pawn our gold watches at Birmingham. At the end of the following month he went to Broadstairs, and not many days before (on 20 May) a note from Mr. Jerdan on behalf of Mr. Bentley opened the negotiations formerly referred to, which transferred to Messrs. Chapman and Hall the agreement for Barnaby Rudge. I was myself absent when he left, and in a letter announcing his departure he had written: "I don't know of a word of news in all I^ndon, but there will be plenty next week, for I am going away, and - hope you'll send me an account of it. I am doubtful whether it will be a murder, a fire, a vast robbery, or the escape of Gould, but it will be something remarkable no doubt. I almost blame myself for the death of that poor girl who leaped off the monument upon my leaving town last year. She would not have done it if I had remained, neither would the two men have found the skeleton in the sewers." His prediction was quite accurate, for I had to tell him, after not many days, of the pitboy who shot at the queen. "It's a great pity they couldn't suffocate that boy. Master Oxford," he replied very sensibly, "and say no more about it. To have put him quietly between two feather-beds would have stopped his heroic speeches, and dulled the sound of his glory very much. As it is, she will have to run the gauntlet of many a fool and madman, some of whom may perchance be better shots and use other than Brummagem firearms." How much of this actually came to pass, the reader knows. From the letters of his present Broadstairs visit, there is little more to add to the account of his progress with his story; but a sentence may be given for its characteristic expression of his invariable habit upon entering any new abode, whether to stay in it for days or for years. On a Monday night he arrived, and on the Tuesday (2 June) wrote: "Before I tasted bit or drop yesterday, I set out my writing- table with extreme taste and neatness, and improved the disposition of the furniture generally." He stayed till the end of June; when Maclise and myself joined him for the pleasure of posting back home by way of his favourite Chatham, Rochester, and Cobham, where we passed two agreeable days in revisiting well-remembered scenes. ? V Iff I 398 The Life of Charles Dickens Meanwhile there had been brought to a close the treaty for repurchase of Oliver and surrender of Barnaby, upon terms which are succinctly stated in a letter written by him to Messrs. Chapman and Hall on 2 July, the day after our return. "The terms upon which you advance the money to-day for the purchase of the copyright and stock of Oliver on my behalf, are under- stood between us to be these. That this ;^225o is to be deducted from the purchase-money of a work by me entitled Barnaby Itudge, of which two chapters are now in your hands, and of which the whole is to be written within some convenient time to be agreed upon between us. But if it should not be written (which God forbid!) within five years, you are to have a lien to this amount on the property belonging to me that is now in your hands, namely, my shares in the stock and copyright of Sketches by Boz, The Pickwick Papers, Nicholas Nickleby, Olivet Twist, and Master Humphrey's Clock; in which we do not include any share of the cunent profits of the last-named work, which I shall remain at liberty to draw at the times stated in our agreement. Your purchase of Barnaby Rudge is made upon the follow- ing terms. It is to consist of matter sufiftcient for ten monthly numbers of the size of Pickwick and Nickleby, which you are however at liberty to divide and publish in fifteen smaller numbers if you think fit. The terms for the purchase of this edition in numbers, and for the copy- right of the whole book for six months after the publication of the last number, are ^3000. At the expiration of the six months the whole copyright reverts to me." The sequel was, as all the world knows, that Barnaby became successor to kttle Nell, the money being repaid by the profits of the Clock; but I ought also to mention the generous sequel that was given to the small service thus rendered to him, by the gift, after not many days, of an antique silver- mounted jug of great beauty of form and workmanship, and with a wealth far beyond artist's design or jeweller's chasing in written words that accompanied it.^ They were accepted to commemorate, not the help they would have far overpaid, but the gladness of his own escape from the last of the agreements that had hampered the opening of his career, and the better future which was now before him. 1 At the opening of August he was with Mrs. Dickens for some days 1 "Accept : ■ .le" (8 Ju'^, 1840), "as a slight memorial of your attached companion, the poor keepsake which accompanies this. My heart is not an eloquent one on matters which touch it most, but suppose this claret jug the urn in which it lies, and believe that its wannest and truest blood is ^ rs. This was the object of my fruitless search, and you. curiosity, on Friday. first I scarcely knew what trifle (you will deem it valuable, I know, for the b'Ver's sake) to send j'ou- but I thought it would be pleasant to connect it with our jovial moments, and to let it add, to the wine we shall drink from it together, a flavour which the choicest vintage could never impart. Take it from my hand— filled to the brim and running over with truth and earnestness. I have just taken one parting look at it, and it seems the most elegant thin^ in the world to me, for I lose sight of the vase in the crowd of wfc^-ome associations that are clusterine and wreathin? them<;f»lvp« about it." " purchase iccinctly Hall on r for the ■e under- ted from *udge, of whole is between thin five elonging ;ock and "^ickleby, do not d work, d in our B follow- lumbers t liberty fit. The le copy- n of the iths the ke world I money mention endered ; silver- i with a written morate, js of his sred the V before ne days attached eloquent 1 which it he object ely knew send 5'ou* ts, and to 3 choicest i running it it, and le vase in lemsplvpn The Life of Charles Dickens 399 in Devonshire, on a visit to hi? father, but he had to take his work with him; and they had only one real holiday, when Dawlish. TeiRn- mouth Babbicombe. and Torquay were explored, returning to Exeter at niMht. In the beginning of September he was again at Broadstairs 1 was just going to work." he wrote on the 9th. "when I got this etter. and the story of the man who went to Chapman and Hall's knocked me down flat. I wrote until now (a quarter to one) against the grain, and have at last given it up for one day. Upon my word it 13 intolerable. I have been grinding my teeth all the morning. I think I could say m two lines something about the general report with P?T'!^r I " ^^'^ ^^"""^ *° *^^ P^""^" '^^^^ P«"e^ace to the first volume of the Chck was at this time in preparation), "giving you full power to cut theni out if you should think differently iiom me. and from L- and H, who m such a matter must be admitted judges." He refers here to a report, rather extensively circulated at the time, and which through various channels had reached his publishers, that he was suffering from loss of reason and was under treatment in an asylum ' I would have withheld it from him. as an absurdity that must quickly be forgotten— but he had been told of it. and there was a difficulty in keeping within judicious bounds his not unnatural wrath A few days later (the 15th) he wrote: "I have been rather surprised ot late to have applications from Roman Catholic clergymen, demand- ing (rather pastorally and with a kind of grave authority) assistance literary employment, and so forth. At length it struck me tl at' through some channel or other. I must have been represented as belonging to that religion. Would you believe, that in a letter from Lamert at Cork, to my mother, which J saw last night, he says 'What do the papers mean by saying that Charles is demented, and further that he has turned Roman Catholic?' \" Of the begging-letter writers' hinted at here. I ought earlier to have said something. In one of his detached essays he has described, without a particle of exaggeration the extent to which he was made a victim by this class of swindler' and the extravagance of the devices practised on him; but he had not confessed, as he might, that for much of what he suffered he was himseli responsible, by giving so largely, as at first he did. to almost evetyone who applied to him. What at last brought him to his senses m this respect. I think, was the request m.ade by the adventurer who had exhausted every other expedient, and who desired finally after describing himself reduced to the condition of a travelling Cheap Jack in the smallest way of crockery, that a donkey might be le't i-Lt^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^««" the subject of similar reports on the occasion of the S^n L'^'I^r "^^'"^^ ponipeUed hun to suspend the publication of Pickxvick for two months when, upon issuing a brief address in resuming his work (30 Tune le'T he said: "By one set of intimate acquaintances, especially well-informed 'he /as been kiUed outright; by another, driven mad; by a third. imprisoSd for debt- by a fourth, sent per steamer to the United States; by a fifth, rendered incapable of mental exertion for evermore; by all. in short, represented as doiS; Tn5?hS n^' f ^f"?-*u ^ ^^^ ^^^^' retirement the restoration of that cheerfulness' ani ptace of which a sad bereavement had temporarily deprived him." Hi 1 ill ;, ¥:rl 4k' 11^' • 400 The Life of Charles Dickens r ' out for him next day, which he would duly call for. This I perfectly remember, and I much fear that the applicant was the Daniel Tobin before mentioned. ' Many and delightful were other letters written from Broadstairs at this date, filled with whimsical talk and humorous description, relating chiefly to an eccentric friend who stayed with him most of the time, and is sketched in one of his published papers as Mr. Kind- heart; but all too private for reproduction now. He returned in the middle of October, when we resumed our almost daily ridings, fore- gatherings with Maclise at Hampstead and elsewhere, and social entertainments with Macready, Talfourd, Procter, Stanfield, Fon- blanque, Elliotson, Tennent, d'Orsay, Quin, Harness, Wilkie, Edwin Landseer, Rogers, Sydney Smith, and Bulwer. Of the genius of the author of Pelham and Eugene Aram he had, early and late, the highest admiration, and he took occasion to express it during the present year in a new preface which he published to Oliver Twist. Other friends became familiar in later years; but, disinclined as he was to the dinner invitations that reached him from every quarter, all such meetings with those whom I have named, and in an especial manner the marked attentions shown him by Miss Coutts, which began with the very beginning of his career, were invariably welcome. To speak here of the pleasure his society afforded, would anticipate the litter mention to be made hereafter. But what in this respect distinguishes nearly all original men, he possessed eminently. His place was not to be filled up by any other. To the most trivial talk he gave the attraction of his own character. It might be a small matter; something he had read or observed during the day, some quaint odd fancy from a book, a vivid little outdoor picture, the laughing exposure of some imposture, or a burst of sheer mirthful enjoyment; but of its kind it would be something unique, because genuinely part of himself. This, and his unwearying animal spirits, made him the most delightful of companions; no claim on good-fellow- ship ever found him wanting; and no one so constantly recalled to his friends the description Johnson gave of Garrick, as "the cheerfuUest man of his age," Of what occupied him in the way of literary labour in the autumn and winter months of the year, some description has been given; and, apart from what has already thus been said of his work at the closing chapters of The Old Curiosity Shop, nothing now calls for more special allusion, except that in his town- walks in November, impelled thereto by specimens recently discovered in his country walks between Broadstairs and Ramsgate, he thoroughly explored the ballad literature of Seven Dials, and would occasionally sin^, with an effect that justified his reputation for comic singing in his childhood, not a Jew of those wonderful productions. . . . The Life of Charles Dickens perfectly liel Tobin roadstairs scription, n most of Mr. Kind- led in the ngs, fore- .nd social eld, Fon- ie, Edwin ius of the le highest e present ist. Other le was to r, all such d manner :h began tne. mticipate is respect ntly. His ivial talk e a small lay, some ;ture, the mirthful , because al spirits, )d-fellow- lled to his eerfuUest 3 autumn ven; and, le closing re special d thereto between le ballad an effect od, not a 401 IX BARNABY RUDGE' 184I The letters of 1841 yield similar fruit as to his doings and sayhigs, and may in like manner first be consulted for the literary work he had in hand. He had the advantage of beginning Barnaby Rudge with a fair amount of story in advance, which he had only to make suitable, by occasional readjustment of chapters, to publication in weekly portions; and on this he was engaged before the end of January. "I am at present " (22 January, 1841) "in what Leigh Hunt would call a kind of impossible state — thinking what on earth Master Humphrey can think of through four mortal pages. I added here and there to the last chapter of the Curiosity Shop yesterday, and it leaves me only four pages to write." (They were filled by a paper from Humphrey introductory of the new tale, in which will be found a striking picture of London, from midnight to the break of day.) "I also made up, ana wrote the needful insertions for, the second number of Barnaby — so that I came back to the mill a little." Hardly yet: for after four days he writes, having meanwhile done nothing: "I have been looking (three o'clock) with an appearance of extraordinary interest and study at one leafoi the Curiosities of Literature ever since half-past ten this morning — I haven't the heart to turn over." Then, on Friday the 29th, better news came. "I didn't stir out yesterday', but sat and thought all day; not writing a line; not so much as the cross of a / or dot of an i. I imaged forth a good deal of Barnaby by keeping my mind steadily upon him; and am happy to say I have gone to work this morning in good twig, strong hope, and cheerful spirits. Last night I was unutterably and impossible-to-form-an-idea- of-ably miserable. ... By the by don't engage yourself otherwise than to me for Sunday week, because it's my birthday. I have no doubt we shall have got over our troubles here by that time, and I purpose having a snug dinner in the study." We had the dinner, though the troubles were not over; but the next day another son was born to him. "Thank God." he wrote on the gth, "quite well. I am thinking hard, and have just written to Browne inquiring when he will come and confer about the raven." He had by this time resolved to make that bird, whose accomplishments had ien daily ripening and enlarging for the last twelve months to the increasing mirth and delight of us all, a prominent figure in Barnaby; and the invitation to the artist was for a conference how best to mtroduce him graphic- ally. III m -t, i i ;5 i , 1. ! 1 ; i ! ( _ I m II .' r ^i 402 The Life of Charles Dickens The next letter mentioning Barnaby was from Brighton (25 February-), whither he had flown for a week's quiet labour. "I have (it's four o'clock) done a very fair morning's work, at which I have sat very close, and been blessed besides with a clear view of the end of the volume. As the contents of one number usually require a day's thought at the very least, and often more, this puts me in great spirits. I think — that is, I hope — the story takes a great stride at this point, and takes it well. Nous verrons. Grip will be strong and I build greatly on the Varden household." Upon his return he had to lament a domestic calamity, which, for Its connection with a famous personage in Barnaby, must be mentioned here. The raven had for some days been ailing, and Topping had reported of him, as Hamlet declared of himself, that he had lost his mirth and foregone all custom of exercises: but Dickens paid no great heed, remembering his recovery from an illness of the previous sum- mer when he swallowed some white paint; so that the graver report which led him to send for the doctor came upon him unexpectedly, and nothing but his own language can worthily describe the result! Unable from the state of his feelings to write two letters, he sent the narrative to Maclise under an enormous black seal, for transmission to me. "You will be greatly Shocked" (the letter is dated Friday evening 12 March, 1841) "and grieved to hear that the Raven is no more! He expired to-day at a few minut'-s after twelve o'clock at noon. He had been ailing for a few days, but we anticipated no serious result conjecturing that a portion of the white paint he swallowed last summer might be lingering about his vitals without having any serious effect upon his constitution. Yesterday afternoon he was takenso much worse that I sent an express for the medical gentleman (Mr. Hemng), who promptly attended, and administered a powerful dose of castor oil. Under the influence of this medicine, he recovered so far as to be able at eight o'clock p.m. to bite Topping. His night was peaceful. This morning at daybreak he appeared better; received (agreeably to the doctor's directions) another dose of castor oil- and partook plentifully of some warm gruel, the flavour of which he appeared to relish. Towards eleven o'clock he was so much wor > thtit It was found necessary to muffle the stable-knocker. At half-past or thereabouts, he was heard talking to himself about the horse and Topping's family, and to add some incoherent expressions which are supposed to have been either a foreboding of his approaching dissolu- tion, or some wishes relative to the disposal of his little property- consisting chiefly of half-pence which he had buried in different parts of the garden. On the clock striking twelve he appeared slightly agitated, but he soon recovered, walked twice or thrice along the coach-house, stopped to bark, staggered, exclaimed Halloa old eirV (his favourite expression), and died. He behaved tliroughwut with a decent fortitude, equanimity and self-possession, which cannot be too much admired. I deeply ;hton {25 . "I have :h I have >f the end re a day's in great de at this ig, and I /hich, for lentioned ping had d lost his . no great ous sum- er report pectedly, le result, sent the Lsmission evening, ao more, loon. He IS result, wed last dng any he was ntleman powerful jcovered lis night received oil; and rhich he h wor ^ alf-past, 3rse and hich are dissolu- roperty: nt parts slightly ong the old girl! mimity, deeply The Life of Charles Dickens 403 regret that being in ignorance of hi. .ianger I did not attend to receive his last instructions. Something remarkable about his eyes occasioned Topping to run for the doctor at twelve. When they returned together our friend was gone. It was the medical gentleman who informed me of his decease. He did it with great caution and delicacy, preparing me by the remark that 'a jolly queer start had taken place'; but the shock was very great notwithstanding. I am not wholly free from suspicions of poison. A malicious butcher has been heard to say that he would 'do' for him: his plea was that he would rot be molested in taking orders down the mews, by any bird that wore a tail. Other persons have also been heard to threaten: among others, Charles Knight, who has just started a weekly publication price fourpence: Barnaby being, as you know, threepence. I have directed a post- mortem examination, and the body has been removed to Mr. Her- ring's school of anatomy for that purpose. "I could wish, if you can take the trouble, that you could enclose this to Forster immediately after you have read it. I cannot discharge the painful task of communication more than once. Were they ravens who took manna to somebody in the wilderness? At times I hope they were, and at others I fear they were not, or they would certainly have stolen it by the way. In profound sorrow, I am ever your bereaved friend C.D. Kate is as well as can be expected, but terribly low as you may suppose. The children seem rather glad of it. He bit their ankles. But that was play." In what way the loss, was replaced, so that Barnaby should have the fruit of continued study of the habits of the family of birds which Grip had so nobly represented, Dickens has told in the preface to the story; and another, older, e-id larger Grip, obtained through Mr. Smithson, was installed in the stable, almost before the. stuffed remains of his honoured predecessor had been sent home in a glass case, by way of ornament to his bereaved master's study. I resume our correspondence on what he was writing. ''I see there is yet room for a few lines " (25 March), "and you are quite right in wishing what I cut out to be restored. I did not want Joe to be so short about Dolly, and really wrote his references to that young lady carefully — as natural things with a meaning in them. Chigwell, my dear fellow, is the greatest place in the world. Name your day for going. Such a delicious old inn opposite the churchyard — such a lovely ride — such beautiful forest scenery — such an out of the way, rural place — such a sexton! I say again, name your day." The day was named at once; and the whitest of stones marks it now in sorrowful memory. His promise was exceeded by our enjoyment; and his delight in the double recognition, of himself and of Barnaby, by the landlord of the nice old inn, far exceeded any pride he would have taken in what the world thinks the highest sort of honour. A iii^',^- ........ •••J - ^•i' \-^"- ^-iifivm^ j.-jf iiij-o\.ii t.\j-\j.a.y , aiivi iiica.n to try and 'go it' at the Clock; Kate being out, and the house peace- fully dismal. I don't remember altering the exact part you object to. ■^ . ': l| ;l. 404 The Life of Charles Dickens I ! but if there be anything here you object to, knock it out ruthlessly." "Don't fail" (5 April) "to erase an>i^ing that seems to you too strong. It is difi&cult for me to judge what tells too much, and what does not. I am trying a very quiet number to set against this neces- sary one. I hope it will be good, bwt I am in very sad condition for work. Glad you think this powerful. What I have put in is more relief, from the raven." Two days later: "I have done that number, and am now going to work on another. I am bent (please Heaven) oii finishing the first chapter by Friday night. I hope to look in upon you to-night, when we'll dispose of the toasts for Saturday. Still bilious— but a good number, I hope, notwithstanding. Jeffrey has come to town, and was here yesterday." The toasts to be disposed of were those to be given at the dinner on the loth to celebrate the second volume of Master Humphrey; when Talfourd presided, and there was much jollity. According to the memorandum drawn up that Saturday night now lying before me, we all in the greatest good humour glorified each other: Talfourd proposing the Clock, Macready Mrs. Dickens, Dickens the publishers, and myself the artists; Mac- ready giving Talfourd, Talfourd Macready, Dickens myself, and myself the comedian Mr. Harley, whose humorous songs had been no inconsiderable element in the mirth of the evening. Five days later he writes: "I finished the number yesterday, and, although I dined with Jeffrey, and was obliged to go to Lord Den- man's afterwards (which made me late), have done eight slips of the Lamplighter for Mrs. Macrone, this morning. When I have got that off my mind I shall try to go on steadily, fetching up the Clock lee-way." The Lamplighter was his old farce, which he now turned into a comic tale; and this, with other contributions given him by friends and edited by him as Pic Nic Papers, enabled him to help the widow of his old publisher in her straitened means by a gift of ;^3oo. He had finished his work of charity before he next wrote of Barnahy Rudge, but he was fetching up his lee-way lazily. "I am getting on" (29 April) "very slowly. I want to stick to the story; and the fear of committing myself, because of the impossibiity of trying back or altering a syllable, makes it much harder than it looks. It was too bad of me to give you the trouble of cutting the number, but I knew so well you would do it in the right places. For what Harley would call the 'onward work' I really think I have some famous thoughts." There is an interval of a month before the next allusion. "Solomon's expression" (3 June) "I meant to be one of those strong ones to which strong circumstances give birth in the commonest minds. Deal with it as you like. . . . Say what you please of Gordon" (I had objected to some points in his view of this madman, stated much too favour- ably as I thought), "he must have been at heart a kind man, and a lover of the despised and rejected, after his own fashion. He lived upon a small income, and always within it; was known to relieve the necessities of many people; exposed in his place the corrupt attempt of a minister to buy him out of Parliament; and did great charities in The Life of Charles Dickens the 405 Newgate. He always spoke on the people's side, and tried against his muddled brains to expose the profligacy of both parties. He never got anything by his madness, and never sought it. The wildest and most ragmg attacks of the time, allow him these merits; and not to let him have 'em m their full extent, remembering in what a (politically) wicked time he lived, would lie upon my conscience heavily. The libel he was imprisoned for when he died, was on the queen of France- and the French government interested themselves warmly to procure his release— which I think they might have done, but for Lord Grenville," . . . This tale was Dickens's first attempt out of the sphere of the life of the day and its actual manners. Begun during the progress of Oliver Twist, it had been for some time laid aside; the form it ulti- mately took had been comprised only partially within its first design- and the story in its finished shape presented st/ongly a special pur- pose, the characteristic of all but his very earliest writings. Its scene is laid at the time when the incessant execution of men and women comparatively innocent, disgraced every part of the country- demoralising thousands, whom it also prepared for the scaffold In those days the theft of a few rags from a bleaching-ground, or the abstraction of a roll of j-ibbons irom a counter, was visited with the penalty of blood; and such laws brutalised both their ministers and victims. It was the time, too, when a false religious outcry brought with it appalling guilt and misery. Such vices leave more behind them than the first forms assumed, and involve a lesson sufficiently required to justify a writer in dealing with them. There were also others grafted on them. In Barnaby himself it was desired to show what sources of comfort there might be, for the patient and cheerful heart, m even the worst of all human afflictions; and in the hunted life of the outcast father, whose crime had entailed not that affliction only, but other more fearful wretchedness, we have as powerful a picture as any in his writings of the inevitable and unfathomable consequences of sin. . . . X IN EDINBURGH 184I His first letter from Edinburgh, where he and Mrs. Dickens had taken up quarters at the Royal Hotel on their arrival the previous night, is dated 23 June. "I have been this morning to the Parliament House, and am now introduced (1 hope) to everybody in Edinburgh The hotel is perfectly besieged, and I have been forced to take refuge W : ! I 4o6 The Life of Charles Dickens in a sequestered apartment at the end of a long passage, wherein I write this letter. They talk of 300 at the dinner. We are very well off in point of rooms, having a handsome sitting-room, another next to it for Clock purposes, a spacious bedroom, and large dressing-room adjoining. The castle is in front of the windows, and the view noble. There was a supper ready last night which would have been a dinner anywhere." This was his first practical experience of the honours his fame had won for him, and it found him as eager to receive as all were eager to give. Very interesting still, too, are those who took leading part in the celebration; and, in his pleasant sketches of them, there are some once famous and familiar figures not so well known to the present generation. Here, among the first, are Wilson and Robertson. "The renowned Peter Robertson is a 'arge, portly, full-faced man with a merry eye, and a queer way of looking under his spectacles which is characteristic and pleasant. He seems a very warm-hearted earnest man too, and I felt quite at home with him forthwith. Walking up and down the hall of the courts of law (which was full of advocates, writers to the signet, clerk-, and idlers) was a tall, burly, handsome man of eight and fifty, with a gait like O'Connell's, the bluest eye you can imagine, and long hair — longer than mine — falling down in a wild way under the broad brim of his hat. He had on a surtout coat, a blue checked shirt; the collar standing up, and kept in its place with a wisp of black neckerchief; no waistcoat; and a large pocket-handkerchief thrust into his breast, which was all broad and open. At his heels followed a wiry, sharp-eyed, shaggy devil of a terrier, dogging his steps as he went slashing up and down, now with one man beside him, now with another, and now quite alone, but always at a fast, rolling pace, with his head in the air, and his eyes as wide open as he could get them. I guessed it was Wilson, and it was. A bright, clear-complexioned, mountain-looking fellow, he looks as though he had just come down from, the Highlands, and had never in his life taken pen in hand. But he has had an attack of paralysis in his right arm. within this month. He winced when I shook hands with him; and once or twice when we were walking up and down, slipped as if he had stumbled on a piece of orange-peel. He is a great fellow to look at, and to talk to; and, if you could divest your mind of the actual Scott, is jus , the figure you would put in his place." . . . His next letter was written the morning after the dinner, on Saturday, 26 June. "The great event is over; and being gone, I am a man again. It was the most brilliant affair you can conceive; the completest success possible, from first to last. The room was crammed, and more than seventy applicants for tickets were of necessity refused yesterday. Wilson was ill, but plucked up like a lion, and spoke famously. I send you a paper herewith, but the report is dismal in the extreme, ihey say there will be a better one — I don't know where or when. Should there be, I will send it to you. I think '^herein I ' well off • next to ng-room IV noble, a dinner lours his ^e as all ho took of them, nown to >on and :ed man >ectacles -hearted rthwith. IS full of 1, burly, ;ll's, the mine — He had up, and .t; and a was all shaggy d down, w quite air, and Wilson, ; fellow, ids, and ttack of when I king up seel. He i divest it in his ner, on I am a ve; the immed, jcessity Dn, and sport is I don't I think The Life of Charles Dickens 407 (ahem!) that I spoke rather well. It was an excellent room, and both the subjects (Wilson and Scottish Literature, and the Memory of Wilkie) were good to go upon. There were nearly two hundred ladies present. The place is so contrived that the cross table is raised enormously; much above the heads of people sitting below: and the effect on first coming in (on me, I mean) was rather tremendous. 1 was quite self-possessed, however, and, notwithstanding the, enthoosemoosy, which was very startling, as cool as a cucumber. I wish to God you had been there, as it is impossible for the 'dis- tinguished guest' to describe the scene. It beat all natur'. . . ." Here was the close of his letter. "I have been expecting every day to hear from you, and not hearing mean to make this the briefest epistle possible. We start next Sunday (that's to-morrow week). We are going out to Jeffrey's to-day (he is very unwell), and return here to-morrow evening. If I don't find a letter from you when I come back, expect no Lights and Shadows of Scottish Life from your indignant correspondent. Murray the manager made very excellent, tasteful, and gentlemanly mention of Macready, about whom Wilson had been asking me divers questions during dinner." "A hundred thanks for your letter," he writes four days later. "I read it this morning with the greatest pleasure and delight, and answer it with ditto, ditto. Where shall I begin — about my darlings? I am delighted with Charley's precocity. He takes arter his father, he does. God bless them, you can't imagine {you/ how can you?) how much I long to see them. It makes me quite sorrowful to think of them. . . . Yesterday, sir, the Lord Provost, council, and magis- trates voted me by acclamation the freedom of the city, in testimony (I quote the letter just received from 'James Forrest, Lord Provost') 'of the sense entertained by them of your distinguished abilities as an author.' I acknowledged this morning in appropriate terms the honour they had done me, and through me the pursuit to which I was devoted. It is handsome, is it not? " The parchment scroll of the city-freedom, recording the grounds on which it was voted, hung framed in his study to the last, and was one of his valued possessions. Answering some question of mine, he told me further as to the speakers, and gave some amusing glimpses of the party-spirit which still at that time ran high in the capital of the north. "The men who spoke at the dinner were all the most rising men here, and chiefly at the Bar. They were all, alternately, Whigs and Tories; with some few Radicals, such as Gordon, who gave the memory of Burns. He is Wilson's son-in-law and the Lord Advocate's nephew — a very masterly speaker indeed, who oughi; to become a distinguished man. Neaves, who gave the other poets, a little too lawyer-like for my taste, is a great gun in the courts. Mr. Primrose is Lord Rosebery's son. Adam Black, the publisher as you know. Dr. Alison, a very popular friend of the poor. Robertson you know. Allan you know. Colquhoun is an advocate. All these men were selected for *;| ypi. I i k /i iffil: fh 1 I* I, ' ^ f ( 1-1 ' .li 408 The Life of Charles Dickens the toasts as being crack speakers, known men, and opposed to each other very strongly in politics. For this reason, the professors and so forth who sat upon the platform about me made no speeches and had none assigned them. I felt it was very remarkable to see such a number of grey-headed men gathered about my brown flowing locks; and it struck most of those who were present very forcibly. The judges, Solicitor-General, Lord Advocate, and so forth, were all here to call, the day after our arrival. The judges never go to public dinners in Scotland. Lord Meadowbank alone broke through the custom, and none of his successors have imitated him. It will give you a good notion of party to hear that the Solicitor-General and Lord-Advocate refused to go, though they had previously engaged, unless the croupier or the chairman were a Whig. Both (Wilson and Robertson) were Tories, simply because, Jeffrey excepted, no Whig could be found who was adapted to the office. The solicitor laid strict injunctions on Napier not to go if a Whig were not in office. No Whig was, and he stayed away. I think this is good — bearing in mind that all the old \yhigs of Edinburgh were cracking their throats in the room. They give out that they were ill, and the Lord Advocate did actually lie in bed all the afternoon; but this is the real truth, and one of the judges told it to me with great glee. It seems they couldn't quite trust Wilson or Robertson, as they thought; and feared some Tory demon- stration. Nothing of the kind took place; and ever since, these men have been the loudest in their praises of the whole affair." The close of his letter tells us all his engagements, and ccmpletes his grateful picture of the hearty Scottish welcome. . . . The narrative of the trip to the Highlands must have a chapter to itself and its incidents of adventure and comedy. The latter chiefly were due to the guide who accompanied them, a quasi-high lander himself, named a few pages back as Mr. Kindheart, whose real name was Mr. Angus Fletcher, and to whom it hardly needs that I should give other mention than will be supplied b}' future notices of him as his friend's letters may contain. He had rnuch talent, but too fitful and wayward to concentrate on a settled pursuit; and though at the time we knew him first he had taken up the profession of a sculptor, he abandoned it soon afterwards. His mother, ^a woman distinguished by many remarkable qualities, lived now in the English lake-country; and it was no fault of hers tiiat her son preferred a wandering life to that of home. His unfitness for an ordinary career was, perhaps, the secret of such liking for him as Dickens had. Fletcher's eccentricity and absurdities, divided often by the thinnest partition from a foolish extravagance, but occasionally clever, and always the genuine though whimsical outgrowth of the life he led, had a curious charm for Dickens. He Ci^ joyed the oddity and humour; tolerated all the rest; and to none move freely than to Kindheart during the next few years, both in Italy and in England, opened his house and hospi- tality. 1 to each rs and so and had ; such a ng locks; bly. The U here to 2 dinners torn, and 1 a good Advocate croupier on) were 3e found ;tions on 1, and he 1 the old m. They illy lie in le judges ite trust '' demon- lese men rmpletes . . The to itself ;fly were himself, was Mr. uld give m as his tful and the time ptor, he ished by :ountry; ig life to aps, the mtricity from a lys the curious •ated all :he next d hospi- The Life of Charles Dickens 409 XI IN THE HIGHLANDS 1 841 From hoch Earn Head Dickens wrote on Monday, 5 July, having reached it, "wet through," at four that afternoon. "Having had a great deal to do in a crowded house on Saturday night at the theatre, we left Edinburgh yesterday morning at ha!f-pas:: seven, and tra- velled, with Fletcher for our guide, to a place called Stewart's Hotel nine miles further than Callender. We had neglected to order rooms, and were obliged to make a sitting-room of our own bed-chamber; in which my genius for stowing furniture away was of the very greatest service. Fletcher slept in a kennel with three panes of glass in it, which formed part and parcel of a window; the other three panes whereof belonged to a man who slept on the other side of the par- tition. He told me this morning that he had had a nightmare all night, and had screamed horribly, he knew. The stranger, as you may suppose, hired a gig and went off at full gallop with the first glimpse of daylight. Being very tired (for we had not had more than three hours' sleep on the previous night) we lay till ten this morning; and at half-past eleven went through the Trossachs to Lech Katrine, where I walked from the hotel after tea last night. It is impossible fo say what a glorious scene it was. It rained as it never does rain any- where but here. We conveyed Kate up a rocky pass to go and see the island of the Lady of the Lake, but she gave in after the first five minutes, and we left her, very picturesque and uncomfortable, with Tom" (the servant they had brought with them from Devonshire Terrace) "holding an umbrella over her head, while we climbed on. When we came back, she had gone into the carriage. We were wet through to the skin, and came on in that state lour and twenty miles. Fletcher is very good-natured, and of extraordinary use in these outlandish parts. His habit of going into kitchens and bars, disconcerting at Broadstairs, is here of great service. Not expecting us till six, thoy hadn't lighted our fires when we arrived here; and if you had seen him (with whom the responsibility of the omission rested) running; in and out of the sitting-room and the two bedrooms with a great pair of bellows, with which he distractec ■ ' >1 ew each of the fires out in turn, you would have died of laughing. H. , had on his head a great highland cap, on his back a white coat, and cut such a figure as even the Inimitable can't depicter. . . . "The inns, inside and out, arc the queerest places imaginable. From the road, this one," at Loch Earn Head, "looks like a white wall, with windows in it by mistake. We have a good sitting-room i ill V I ■ i I ! 51 ! H |;! ti 1 1 , / it 410 The Life of Charles Dickens though, on the first floor: as large (but not so lofty) as my study The bedrooms are of that size which renders it impossible for you to move after you have taken your boots off. without chipping pieces out of your legs. There isn't a basin in the Highlands which will hold my face; not a drawer which will open after you have put your clothes m it; not a water-bottle capacious enough to wet your tooth- brush. The huts are wretched and miserable beyond all description Ihe food (for those who can pay for it) 'not bad.' as M. would say- oatcake, mutton, hotchpotch, trout from the loch, small beer bottled, marmalade, and whisky. Of the last-named article I have taken about a pint to-day. The weather is wlnt thcv call 'soft'— which means that the sky is a vast waterspout that never leaves off emptying 2tself; and the liquor has no more effect than water. (I am going to work to-morrow, and hope before leaving here' to write you again. The elections have been sad work indeed. That they should return Sibthorp and reject Bulwer, is. by Heaven, a national disgrace. ... I don't wonder the devil flew over .Lincoln The people were far too addle-headed, even for him.) . . . l uon't bore you with accounts of Ben this and that, and Lochs of all sorts of names, but this is a wonderful region. The way the mists were stalking about to-day. and the clouds lying down upon the hills; the deep glens, the high rocks, the rushing waterfalls, and the roaring rivers down in deep gulfs below; were all stupendous. This house is wedged round by great heights that are lost in the clouds; and the Jock twelve miles Jong, stretches out this dreary length before the windows. In my next I shall soar to the sublime, perhaps; in this here present writing I confine myself to the ridiculous. But 1 am alwavs " etc., etc. •" ' His next letter bore the date of "Ballechelish, Friday evening nmth July, 1841, half-past nine, p.m." and described what we had often longed to see together, the Pass of Glencoe. "... I can't go to bed without writing to you from here, though the post will not leave this place until we have left it. and arrived at another The cold all day has been intense, and the rain sometimes most violent. It has been impossible to keep warm, by any means; even whisky failed; the wmd was too piercing even for that. One stage of ten miles over a place called the Black Mount, took us two hours and a half to do; and when we came back to a lone public called the King's House,' at the entrance to Glencoe— this was about three o clock— we were wellnigh frozen. We got a fire directly, and in twenty minutes they served us up some famous kippered salmon broiled; a broiled fowl; hot mutton, ham and poached eggs; pancakes- oatcakes, wheaten bread; butter; bottled porter; hot water lump sugar, and whisky; of which we made a very hearty meal All the Avay, the road had been among moors and mountains with huge masses of rock, which fell down God knows where, sprinkling the o; " '" '-•'■-'-7 vixxcvLiuii, iiiiu giving ir the aspect ol the burial- place of a race of giants. Now and then we passed a hut or two, with itudy. The or yon to ling pieces h will hold put your 3ur tooth- !scription. 'ould say; nail beer ;le I have 11 'soft'— leaves off er. . . . f? here to rhat they I national :oln The on't bore 1 sorts of ists were hills; the B roaring house is and the efore the this here always," evening, : we had can't go will not jr. . . , les most ns; even stage of ^o hours illed the at three and in salmon, mcakes; r, lump All the th huge ing the buriai- vo, with The Life of Charles Dickens 411 neither v^rindow nor chimney, and the smoke of the peat fire rolling t)ut at the door. B t there were not six of these dwellings in a dozen miles; and anything so bleak and wild, and mighty in its loneliness, as the whole country, it is impossible to conceive. Glencoe itself is perfectly terrible. The pass in an awful place. It is shut in on each side by enormous rocks from which great torrents come rushing down in all directions. Ii» amongst these rocks on one side of the pass (the left as we came) there are scores of glens, high up, which form such haunts as you might imagine yourself wandering in, in the very height of madness of a fever. They will live in my dreams for years I was going to say as long as I live, and I seriously think so. The very recollection of them makes me shudder. . . . Well, I will not bore you with my impressions of these tremendous wilds, but they really are fearful in their grandeur and amazing solitude. Wales is a mere toy compared with them. ..." The impression made upon him by the Pass of Glencoe was not overstated in this letter. It continued with him; and, even where he expected to find nature in her most desolate grandeur, on the dreary waste of an American prairie, his imagination went back with a higher satisfaction to Glencoe. But his experience of it is not yet completely told. The sequel was in a letter of two days later date from "Dalmally, Sunday, July the eleventh, 1841." "As there was no place of this name in our route, you will be sur- prised to see it at the head of this present writing. But our being here is a part of such moving accidents by flood and field as will astonish you. If you should happen to have your hat on, take it oft, that your hair may stand on end without any interruption. To get from Ballyhoolish (as I am obliged to spell it when Fletcher is not in the way; and he is out at this moment) to Oban, it is necessary to cross two ferries, one of which is an arm of the sea, eight or ten miles broad. Into this ferry-boat, passengers, carriages, horses, and all, get bodily, and are got across by hook or by crook if the weather be reasonably fine. Yesterday morning, however, it blew such a strong gale 4:hat the landlord of the inn, where we had paid for horses all the way to Oban (thirty miles), honestly came upstairs just as we were starting, with the money in his hand, and told us it would be impossible to cross. There was nothing to be done but to come back five and thirty miles, through Glencoe and Inverouran, to a place called Tyndrum, whence a road twelve miles long crosses to Dalmally, which is sixteen miles from Inverary. Accordingly we turned back, and in a great storm of wind and rain began to retrace the dreary road we had come the day before. ... I was not at all ill-pleased to have to come again through that awful Glencoe. If it had been tiemendous on the previous day, yesterday it was perfectly horrific. It had rained all night, and was raining then, as ..,..,,, J s,,,,^,j,j, ,...,v:>^ pdi to. ixiiuu5ii tHc wiiuic gicii, vvuicii is ten miles long, torrents were boiling and foaming, and sending up in every direction spray like the smoke of great fires. They were rushinj? 'Wa ' i f J 412 The Life of Charles Dickens down every hill and mountain side, and tearing like devih across he path, and down into the depths of the rocks. Some of the hHls looked as ,f they were full of silver, and had cracked in a hundred places. Others as if they were frightened, and had broken out into a deadly sweat. In others there was no compromise or division of streams, but one great torrent came roaring down with a dea enii^e no.se. and a rushing of water that was quite appalling. Such a JZf m short (that's the country word) has not been known for many years, and the sights and sounds were beyond description The^ost^ boy was not at all at his ease, and the horses were very much frightened (as well they might be) by the perpetual ragfng and roaring; one of them started as we came down a steep place and we were withm that much ( ) of tumbling over a precipfceMust theT too the drag broke, and we were obliged to go on as we best couW without It: getting out every now and then. Ind hanging on at the back of the carriage to prevent its rolling down too fLtf^and goW Heaven knows where. Well, in this pleasant state of things we ?ame ^i1.^Th' "°"Kf ^f »"'i^^i"g been four hours doing the rixte^n niiles The rumble where Tom sat waa by this time so full of water that he was obliged to borrow a gimlet, and bore holes in the bottom to let It run out The horses that were to take us on. were out uC the hills, some^vhere within ten miles round; and three or four h^e- legged fellows went out to look for ^em. while we sat by the firc^nd tried to dry ourselves. At last we got off again (without^the drag and l^mnin. '''^.'"t'P""^' "^ T''^ ^^^^"^ within ten miles) and went Iiniping on to Inverouran. In the first three miles we were in a diLh and out agam, and lost a horse's shoe. All this time it never once left off rammg. and was very windy, very cold, very mist^ and most intensely dismal. So we crossed :he Black Mount, and came To a place we had passed the day before, where a rapid river runTover a bed of broken rock. Now this river, sir. had a bridge last winter but m.'nH'iH^' ^"^^' ^n^'" ^^"" '^' ^^^'' ^^"^^' ^^^ has never ince been mended; so travellers cross upon a little platform, made of rou Jh ford P^^"k%^tn'^^"^ ^"^"^ ^°^^ *° ^°^k: ^"d carrkges and horses ford the water at a certain point. As the platform is the reverse of steady (we had proved this the day b3fo?e). is very slipped and affords anything but a pleasant footing, having only a trembfin^ ittle ran on one side, and on the other nothing between it and thf foaming stream Kate decided to remain in thi carriage and trust herself to the wheels rather than to her feet. Fletcher and I got out and It was going away, when I advised her. as I had done several times before to come with us; for I saw that the water was very hgh the current being greatly swollen by the rain, and that thrpostbov had been eyeing it m a very disconcerted manner for the last haH hour. This decided her to come out; and Fletcher, she. Tom and I began to cross, while the carriage went about a auart.r n/ ^11 u IT ?^"^' '" ^^''''''^'' ^^ ^ ^^^^^o^ place. The platform "shook so much that we could only come across two at a time aTd then It The Life of Charles Dickens mi1< 413 ram felt as if it were hung on springs. As to the wind J put into one gust all the wind and rain you ever saw and heard, and you'll have some faint notion of it ! When we got safely to the opposite bank, there came riding up a wild highlander in a great plaid, whom we recognised as the landlord of the inn, and who, without takin, the least notice of us, went dashing on, with the plaid he was wrapped in streaming in the wind, screeching in Gaelic to the postboy on the opposite bank, and making the most frantic gestures you ever saw, in which he was joined by some other wild men on foot, who had come across by a short cut, knee deep in mire and water. As we began to see what this meant, we (that is, Fletcher and I) scrambled on after them, while the boy, horses, and carriage were plunging in the water, which left only the horses' heads and the boy's body visible. By the time we got up to them, the man on horseback and the men on foot were perfectly mad with pantomine; for as to any of their shouts being heard by the bov, the water made such a great noise that they might as well have been dumb. It made me quite sick to think how I should have felt if Kate had besn inside. The carriage went round and round like a great stone, the boy was as pale as death, the horses were struggling and plashing and snorting like sea-animals, and we were all roaring to the driver to throw him- self off, and let them and the coach go to the devil, when suddenly it came all right (having got into shallow water), and, all tumbling and dripping and jogging from side to side, climbed up to the dry land. I assure you we looked rather queer, as we wiped our faces and stared at each other in a little cluster round about it. It seemed that the man on horseback had been lookinit; at us through a telescope as we came to the track, and knowing that the place was very danger- ous, and seeing that we meant to bring the carriage, had come on at a great gallop to show the driver the only place where he could cross. By the time he came up, the man had taken the water at a wrong place, and in a word was as nearly drowned (with carriage, horses, luggage, and all) as ever man was. V'as this a good adventure? "We all went on to the inn— the -jvild man galloping on first, to get a fire lighted— and there we dined on eggs and bacon, oatcake, and whisky; and changed and dried ourselves. The place was a mere kiAot of little outhouses, and in one of these there were fifty highlanders all drunk. . . . Some were drovers, some pipers, and some work- men engaged to build a hunting-lodge for Lord Breadalbane hard by, who had been driven in by stress of weather. One was a paperhanger! He had come out three days before to paper the inn's best room, a chamber almost large enough to keep a Newfoundland dog in; and, from the first ha If -hour after his arrival to that moment, had been hopelessly and irreclaimably drunk. They were lying about in all directions: on forms, on the ground, about a loft overhead, round the turf-fire wrapped in plaids, on the tables, and under them. We paid our bill, thanked our host very heartily, gave some money to his children, and after an hour's rest came on again. At ten o'clock at 'm (I ( 414 The Life of Charles Dickens night, we reached this place, and were overjoyed to find quite an English inn, with good beds (those we have slept on, yet, have always been of straw), and every possible comfort. We breakfasted this morning at half-past ten, and at three go on to Inverary to dinner. I believe the very ro gh part of the journey is over, and I am really glad of it. Kate sends all kinds of regards. I shall hope to find a letter from you at Inverary when the post reaches there, to-morrow. I \%rote to Oban yesterday, desiring the post-office keeper to send any he might have for us, over to that place. Love to Mac." . . . XII AGAIN AT BROADSTAIRS 1 841 Soon after his return ["from Scotland], in August, he sent me some rhymed squibs as his anonymous contribution to the fight the Liberals were then making, against what was believed to be intended by the return to office of the Tories; ignorant as we were how much wise than his party the statesman then at the head of it was, or how greatly what we all most desired would be advanced by the very success that had been most disheartening. There will be no harm no v in giving extracts from one or two of these pieces, which will sufficiently show the tone of all of them, and with what relish they were written. A celebrated address had been delivered at Tamworth, in which the orator, though in those days big with nothing much larger or graver than a sliding-scale, had made a mystery of it as an infallible specific for public affairs, which he refused to prescribe till regularly called in; and this was good- humouredly laughed at in a quack-doctor's proclamation, to the tune of "A Cobbler there was." He's a famous corn-doctor, of wonderful skill — No cutting, no rooting up, purging, or pill — You're merely to take, 'stead of walking or riding, The light schoolboy exercise, innocent sliding. Tol de rol, etc There's no advice gratis. If high ladies send His legitimate fee, he's their soft-spoken friend. At the great public counter, with one hand behind hira And one in his waistcoat, they're certain to find him. Tol de roi, etc. quite an yet, have eakfasted verary to and I am pe to find (-morrow, r to send me some ight the intended 3w much : was, or i by the ill be no (s, which at relish -'ered at big with made a i^hich he IS good- , to the The Life of Charles Dickens 415 He has only to add he's the true Doctor Flam, All others being purely fictitious and sham; The house is a large one, tall, slated, and white, With a lobby, and lights in the passage at night. Tol de rol, diddle doll, etc. The last of these rhymes I will give entire. This had no touch of personal satire in it, and he would himself, for that reason, have least objected to its revival. Thus ran his new version of "The Fine Old English Gentleman, to be said or sung at all Conservative dinners": I'll sing you a new ballad, and I'll warrant it first-rate. Of the days of that old gentleman who had that old estate; When they spent the public money at a bountiful old rate On ev'ry mistress, pimp, and scamp, at ev'ry noble gate, In the fine old English Tory times; Soon may they come again! The good old laws were garnished well with gibbets, whips, and chains With fine old English penalties, and fine old English pains, With rebel heads and seas of blood once hot in rebel veins: For all these things were requisite to guard the rich old gains Of the fine old English Tory times; Soon may they come again ! This brave old code, like Argus, had a hundred watchful eyes And ev'ry English peasant had his good old English spies, To tempt his starving discontent with fine old English lies, Then call the good old Yeomanry to stop his peevish cries, In the fine old English Tory times; Soon may they come again. The good old times for cutting throats that cried out in their need The good old times for hunting men who held their fathers' creed ' The good old times when William Pitt, as all good men agreed ' Came down direct from Paradise at more than railroad speed. '. , , Oh the fine old English Tory times; When will they come again! In those rare days, the press was seldom known to snarl or bark But sweetly sang of men in pow'r, like any tuneful lark; ' Grave judges, too, to all their evil deeds were in the dark; And not a man in twenty score knew how to ma':e his mark. Oh the fine old English Tory times; Soon may they come again! . . . But Tolerance, though slow in flight, is strong-wing'd in the main; That night must come on these fine days, in course of time was plain- The pure old spirit struggled, but its str-iggles were in vain; ' A nation's grip was on it. and it died in choking pain. With the fine old English Tory days, All of the olden time. .^ if 1 , M ■;?i ■■ r.^ -ij'^iW ■ '' f ^^ III I 1 1 416 The Life of Charles Dickens The bright old day now dawns again; the cry runs through the land, In England there shall be — dear bread! In Ireland — sword and brand! Anc^ poverty, and ignorance, shall swell the rich and grand, So, rally round the rulers with the gentle iron hand, Of the fine old English Tory days; Hail to the coming time! Small causes of displeasure had been growing out of the Clock, and were almost unavoidably incident to the position in which he found himself respecting it. Its discontinuance had become necessary, the strain upon himself being too great without the help from others which experience had shown to be impracticable; but I thought he had not met the difficulty wisely by undertaking, which already he had done, to begin a new story so early as the following March. On his arrival therefore we decided on another plan, with which we went armed that Saturday afternoon to his publishers; and of which the result will be best told by himself. He had returned to Broadstairs the following morning, and next day (Monday, 23 August) he wrote to me in ve. y enthusiastic terms of the share I had taken in what he calls "the development on Saturday afternoon; when I thought Chapman very manly and sensible. Hall morally and physically feeble though perfectly well-intentioned, and both the statement and reception of the project quite triumphant. Didn't you think so too?" A fortnight later, Tuesday, 7 September, the agreement was signed in my chambers, and its terms were to the effect following. The Clock was to cease with the close of Barnahy Rudge, the respective ownerships continuing as provided; and the new work in twenty numbers, similar to those of Pickwick and Nickleby, was not to begin until after an interval of twelve months, in November 1842. During its publication he was to receive ;^2oo monthly, to be accounted as part of th"^ expenses; for all which, and all risks incident, the publish- ers made themselves responsible, under conditions the same as in the Clock agreement; except that, out of the profits of each number, they were to have only a fourth, three-fourths going to him, and this arrangement was to hold good until th§ termination of six months from the completed book, when, upon payment to him of a fourth of the value of all existing stock, they were to have half the future interest. During the twelve months' interval before the book began, he was to be paid ;^i5o each month; but this was to be drawn from his three-fourths of the profits, and in no way to interfere with the monthly payments of ;^2oo while the publication was going on. Such was the "project," excepting only a provision to be mentioned hereafter against the improbable event of the profits being inade- quate to the repayment: and some fear as to the use he was likely to make of the leisure it afforded him seemed to me its only drawback. That this fear was not ill-founded appears at the close of his next letter. "There's no news" (13 September) "since my last. We are going to dine with Rogers to-day, and with Lady Essex, who is md, >rand ! the Clock, which he lecessary, om others lought he .Iready he larch. On ti we went which the roadstairs he wrote n what he [ thought physically statement 1 think so ment was following, respective n twenty t to begin 2. During ounted as e publish- ime as in 1 number, [, and this X months I a fourth he future ok began, awn from : with the going on. mentioned x\g inade- 3 likely to Irawback. »se of his last. We !X, who is The Life of Charles Dickens 417 also here. Rogers is much pleased with Lord Ashley, who was offered by Peel a post m the government, but resolutely refused to take office unless Peel pledged himself to factory improvement. Peel hadn t made up his mind'; and Lord Ashley was deaf to all other inducements, though they must have been very tempting. Much do I honour him for it. I am in an exquisitely lazy state, bathing, walking, reading, lying m the sun, doing everything but workini! This frame of mind is srper-induced by the prospect of rest, and the promising arrangements which I owe to you. I am still haunted bv visions of America, night and day. To miss this opportunity would be a sad thing Kate cries dismally if I mention the subject: But God \villing. I think it must be managed somehow ! " )*'.' !- m m\i 332 i H i :ll: (I I J 1 ^ BOOK THIRD AMERICA 184I — 2. MT. 29-30 I. Eve of the Visit II. First Impressions III. Second Impressions IV. Philadelphia and the South V. Canal and Steam Boat Journeys VI. Far West: to Niagara Falls VII. "American Notes " I I 419 so far his bo\ EVE OF THE VISIT 1841 The notion of America was in his mind, as we have seen, when he first projected the Clock, and a very hearty letter from Washington Irving about little Nell and the Curiosity Shop, expressing the delight with his writings and the yearnings for himself which had indeed been pourmg in upon him for some time from every part of the States, had very strongly revived it. . . . Upon his return from Scotland it began to take shape as a thing that somehow or other at no very distant date, must be; and at last, near the end of a letter filled with many unimportant things, the announcement, doublv underlined, came to me. The decision once taken, he was in his usual fever until its diffi- culties were disposed of. The objections to separation from the chil- dren led at first to the notion of taking them, but this was as quickly abandoned; and what remained to be overcome yielded readily to the kind offices of Macready, the offer of whose home to the little ones during the time of absence, though not accepted to the full extent, gave yet the assurance needed to quiet natural apprehensio:.s All this, including an arrangement for publication of such notes as might occur to him on the journey, took but a few days; and I was reading in my chambers a letter he had written the previous day from Broadstairs, when r. note from him reached me, written that mornng in London, to tell me he was on his way to take share of my breakfast. He had come overland by Canterbury after posting his first letter; hai seen Macready the previous night; and had completed some part of the arrangements. This mode of rapid procedure was characteristic of him at all similar times, and will appear in the few follow' ^ extracts from his letters. "Now" (19 September) "to astonish you. After balancing, con- sidermg, and v/'^ighing the matter in every point of view, I have MADE UP .vIY MIND (WITH God's LEAVE) TO GO TO AMERICA— AND TO START AS SOON AFTER CHRISTMAS AS IT WILL BE SAFE TO GO." Further information was promised immediately; and a request followed, characteristic as anv he could havp. aHHftH +r» hio rioo^rTr. />f +— -^-n:_^ so tar away, that we should visit once more together the scenes of his boyhood. "On the ninth of October we leave here. It's a Saturday. 421 i tfl ]:W 1 1 il mi 422 The Life of Charles Dickens If It should be fine dry weather, or anything :ke it, will you meet us at Rochester, and stop there two or three days to see all the lions in the surrounding country? Think of this. , . . n FIRST IMPRESSIONS 1842 His first " American " letter was written as soon as he got sight of earth again, from the banks of Newfoundland, on Monday, 17 January, the fourteenth day from their departure: even then so far from Halifax that they could not expect to make it before Wednes- day night, or to reach Boston until Saturday or Sunday. They had not been fortunate in the passage. During the whole voyage -le weather had been unprecedentedly bad, the wind for the most part dea^ against them, the wet intolerable, the sea horribly disturbed, th days dark, and the nights fearful. On the previous Monday night it had blown a hurricane, begmning at five in the afternoon and raging all night. Hi<^ description of the storm is published, and the peculiarities of a steamer's behaviour in such circumstances are hit off as if he had been all his life a sailor. . . , He stood out against sickness only for the day following that on which they sailed. For the three following days he kept his bed; miserable enough; and had not, until the eighth day of the voyage] six days before the date of his letter, been able to get to work at the dinner-table. What he then observed of his fellow-travellers, and had to tell of their life on board, has been set forth in his Notes with delightful humour; but in its first freshness I received it in this letter, and some whimsical passages, then suppressed, there will be no harm in printing now. "We have 86 passengers; and such a^ strange collection of beasts never was got together upon the sea, since the days of the Ark. "I have established myself, from the first in the ladies' cabin— you remember it.? I'll describe its other occupants, and our way of passin" the time, to you. ^ "Plrst, for the occupants. Kate and I, and Anne — when she is out of bed, which is not often. A queer little Scotch body, a Mrs. P ,* whose husband is a silversmith in New York. He married her at Glas- gow three years ago, and bolted the day after the wedding; being * The initials used here are in no case those of the real names, being employed m everv case for the express purpose of disguising the names. Generally "the rexnoiK is applicable to ail initials used in the letters priiiLed in the course of this work. The exceptions are unimportant. u meet us le lions in got sight Monday, hen so far i Wednes- They had yage. -le most part iisturbed, day night noon and , and the es are hit g that on his bed; e voyage, )rk at the ;, and had ^otss with his letter, ill be no of beasts the Ark. bin — you Df passing she is out p * r at Glas- ng; being » employed nerally the urse of tliis The Life of Charles Dickens 423 (which he had not told her) heavily in debt. Since then she has been living with her mother; and she is now going out under the protection of a male cousin, to give him a year's trial. If she is not comfortable at the expiration of that time, she means to go back to Scotland again. A Mrs. B , about twenty years old, whose husband is on board with her. He is a young Englishman domiciled in New York, and by trade (as well as I can make out) a woollen-draper. They have been married a fortnight. A Mr. and Mrs. C , marvellously fond of each other, complete the catalogue. Mrs. C , I have settled, is a publican's daughter, and Mr. C is running away with her, the till, the time-piece off the bar mantel-shelf, the mother's gold watch from the pocket at the head of the bed, and other miscellaneous property. The women are all pretty; unusually pretty. I never saw such good faces together, anywhere." . . . The news that excited them from day to day, too, of which little more than a hint appears in the Notes, is worth giving as originally written. "As for news, we have more of that than you would think for. One man lost fourteen pounds at vingt-un in the saloon yesterday^ or another got drunk before dinner was over, or another was blinded with lobster sauce spilt over him by the steward, or another had a fall on deck and fainted. The ship's cook was drunk yesterday morning (having got at some salt-water-damaged whisky), and the captain ordered the boatswain to play upon him the hose of the fire- engine until he roared for mercy — which he didn't get; for he was sentenced to look out, for four hours at a stretch for four nights running, without a greatcoat, and to have his grog stopped. Four do.-en plates were broken at dinner. One steward fell down the cabin stairs with a round of beef, and injured his foot severely. Another steward fell down after him, and cut his eye open. The baker's taken ill: so is the pastry-cook. A new man, sick to death, has been required to fill the place of the latter officer, and has been dragged out of bed and propped up in a little house upon deck, between two casks, and ordered (the captain standing over him) to make and roll out pie-crust; which he protests, with tears in his eyes, it is death to him in his bilious state to look at. Twelve dozen of bottled porter has got loose upon deck, and the bottles are rolling about distractedly, overhead. Lord Mulgrave (a handsome fellow, by the by, to look at, and nothing but a good 'un to go) laid a wager with twenty-five other men last night, whose berths, like his, are in the fore-cabin whicii can only be got at by crossing the deck, that he would reach his cabin first. Watches were set by the captain's, and they sallied forth, wrapped up in coats and storm caps. The sea broke over the ship 30 violently, that they were five and twenty minutes holding on by the hand-rail at the starboard paddle-box, drenched to the skin by every wave, and not daring to go on or come back, lest they should be washed overboard. News ! A dozen murders in town wouldn't interest us half as much." . . . i . If I • ^a |2 sf|^ ? • 424 The Life of Charles Dickens The next day's landing at Halifax, and delivery of the mails, are sketched in the Notes: but not his personal part in what followed. "Then, sir, comes a breathless man who has been already into the ship and out again, shouting my name as he tears along. I stop, arm in arm with the little doctor -vhom I have taken ashore for oysters. The breathless man introduces himself as The Speaker of the House of Assembly; will drag me away to his house; and will have a carriage and his wife sent down for Kate, who is laid up with a hideously swollen face. Then he drags me up to the Governor's house (Lord Falkland i ^he Governor), and then Heaven knows where; conclud- ing with botu Houses of Parliament, which happen to meet for the session that very day, and are opened by a mock speech from the throne delivered by the Governor, with one of Lord Grey's sons for his aide-de-camp, and a great host of officers about him. I wish you could have seen the crowds cheering the Inimitable in the streets. I wish you could have seen judges, law-officers, bishops, and law- makers welcoming the Inimitable. I wish you could have seen the Inimitable shown to a great elbow-chair by the Speaker's throne, and sitting alone in the middle of the floor of the House of Commons, the observed of all observers, listening with exemplary gravity to the queerest speaking possible, and breaking in spite of himself into a smile as he thought of this commencement to the Thousand and One stories in reserve for home and Lincoln's Inn Fields and Jack Straw's Castle. — Ah, Forster! when I dc come back again! " . . . What further he had to say of that week's experience, finds its first public utterance here. "How can I tell yoj," he continues, "what has happened since that first day? How can I give you the faintest notion of my reception here; of the crowds that pour in and out of the whole day; of the people that line the streets when I go out; of tl e cheering when I went to the theatre; of the copies of verses, letters of congratulation, welcomco of all kinds, balls, dinners, assemblies without end ? There is to be a public dinner to me here in Boston, next Tuesday, and great dissatisfaction has been given to the many by the high price (three pounds sterling each) of the tickets. There is to be a ball next Monday week at New York, and 150 names appear on the list of the committee. Tliere is to be a dinner in the same place, in the same week, to which I have had an invitation with every known name in America appended to it. But what can I tell you about any of these things which will give you the slightest notion of the enthusiastic greeting they give me, or the cry that runs through the whole country 1 I have had deputations from the Far West, who have come from more than two thousand miles distance: from the lakes, the rivers, the backwoods, the log-houses, the cities, factories, villages, and towns. Authorities from nearly all the States have written to me. I have heard from the universities, congress, senate, and bodies, public and private, of every sort and kind. 'It is no nonsense, and no common ieeiiiig,' wrote Dr. Chanumg to me yesterday. It is all heart. There never was, and never will be, such a The Life of Charles Dickens mails, are followed. f into the stop, arm ir oysters. :he House a carriage hideously use (Lord ; conclud- st for the from the s sons for wish you streets. I and law- seen the rone, and mons, the ty to the !elf into a I and One k Straw's finds its ontinues, i you the ur in and /hen I go copies of ;, dinners, le here in given to le tickets. 50 names ler in the ,tion with can I tell ist notion s through Vest, who from the factories, ites have )S, senate, 'It is no Lg to me 36, such a 425 triumph.' And it is a good thing, is it not, ... to find those fancies it has given me and you the greatest satisfaction to think of, at the core of it all ? It makes my heart quieter, and me a more retiring, sober, tranquil man to watch the effect of those thoughts in all this noise and hurry, even than if I sat, pen in hand, to put them down for the first time. I feel, in the best aspects of this welcome, something of the presence and influence of that .spirit which directs my life, and through a heavy sorrow has pointed upward with unchanging finger for more than four years past. And if I know my heart, not twenty times this praise would move me to an act of folly. . . ." The last addition made to this letter, from which many most vivid pages of the Notes (among them the bright quaint picture of Boston streets) were taken with small alteration, bore date 29 January. "I hardly know what to add to all this long and unconnected history. Dana, the author of that Two Years before the Masf' (a book which I had praised much to him, thinking it like De Foe), "is a very nice fellow indeed; and in appeiiiance not at all the man you would expect. He is short, mild-looking, and has a care-worn face. His father is exactly like George Cruikshank after a night's jollity — only shorter. The professors at the Cambridge University, Longfellow, Felton, Jared Sparks, are noble fellows. ..." Unmistakably to be seen, in this earliest of his letters, is the quite fresh and unalloyed impression first received by him at this memor- able visit; and it is due, as well to himself as to the country which welcomed him, that this should be considered independently of any modification or change it afterwards underwent. Of the fervency and universality of the welcome there could be no doubt, and as little that it sprang from feelings honourable both to giver and receiver. The sources of Dickens's popularity in England were in truth multi- plied many-fold in America. The hearty, cordial, and humane side of his genius had fascinated them quite as much; but there was also something beyond this. The cheerful temper that had given new beauty to the commonest forms of life, the abounding humour which had added largely to all innocent enjoyment, the honourable and in those days rare distinction of America which left no home in the Union inaccessible to such advantages, had made Dickens the object everywhere of grateful admiration, for the most part of personal affection. But even this was not all. I do not say it either to lessen or increase the value of the tribute, but to express simply what it was; and there cannot be a question that the young English author, whom by his language the Americans claimed equally for their own, was almost universally regarded by them as a kind of embodied protest against what was believed to be worst in the institutions of England, depressing and overshadowing in a social sense, and adverse to purely intellectual influences. In all their newspapers of evtry grade at the time, the feeling of triumph over the Mother Country in this particular is predominant. You worship titles, they said, and military heroes, and millionaires, and we of the New World want to 332* III hi f I I i ^ I •If ' i 426 The Life of Charles Dickens show you, by extending the kind of homage that the Old World reserves for kings and conquerors to a young man with nothing to distinguish him but his heart and his genius, what it is wo think in these parts worthier of honour than birth or wealth, a title or a sword. ■Well, there was something in this, too, apart from a mere crowing over the Mother Country. The Americans had honestly more than a common share in the triumphs of a genius, which in more than one sense had made the deserts and wildernesses of life to blossom like the rose. They were entitled to se" t for a welcome, as emphatic as they might please to render it, the writer who pre-eminently in his genera- tion had busied himself to "detect and save," in human creatures, such sparks of virtue as misery or vice had not availed to extinguish; to discover what is beautiful and comely, under what commonly passes for the ungainly and deformed; to draw happiness and hope- fulness from despair itself; and, above all, so to have made known to his own countrymen the wants and sufferingsof the poor, the ignorant, and the neglected, that they could be left in absolute neglect no more. ... Ill SECOND IMPRESSIONS 1842 His second letter, radiant with the same kindly warmth that gave always charm to his genius, was dated from the Carlton Hotel, New York, on 14 February, but its only allusion of any public interest was to the beginning of his agitation of the question of international copyright. He went to America with no express intention of starting this question in any way; and certainly with no belief that such remark upon it as a person in his position could alone be expected to make, would be resented strongly by any sections of the Amer.''.an people. But he was not long left in doubt on this head. He had spoken upon it twice publicly, "to the great indignation of some of the editors here, who are attacking me for so doing, right and left." On the other hand all the best men had assured him, that, if only at once followed up in England, the blow .uck might bring about a change in the law; and, yielding to the agieeable delusion that the best men could be a match for the worst in such a matter, he urged me to enlist on his side what force was obtamable, and in particular, as he had made Scott's claim his wr -cry, to bring Lockhart into the field. I could not do much, but wl at I could was done. . . . J.TCVT 1842. J ' T7~U _ o CiXi J.U As there is a sailing-packet from here to England to- The Life of Charles Dickens )ld World lothing to e think in ►r a sword, e crowing yre than a : than one m like the ic as they lis genera- creatures, xtinguish; commonly and hope- known to : ignorant, leglect no 427 that gave otel, New c interest jrnational if starting that such pected to American id spoken le of the ;."Onthe y at once a change best men 3 to enlist IS he had le field. I ^ — J. -.,-■-, J. u gland to- morrow which is warranted (by the owners) to be a marvellous fast sailer, and as it appears most probable that she will reach home (I v/nte the word with a pang) before the Cunard steamer of next month, I mdite this letter. And lest tnis letter should reach you before another letter which I despatched from here last Monday let me say m the first place that I dtd despatch a brief epistle fo you on that day, together with a newspaper, and a pamphlet touchinir the Boz ball; and tb.at I put in the postoftico at Boston anoth, r news- papci lor you containing an account of the dinner, which was just about to come off, you remember, when 1 wrote to you from that city. "It was a most superb affair; and the speaking admirable. Inc d the general talent for public speaking here, is one of the most stril 1 ig f)f the thir- -. that force themselves upon an Englishman's notice. \s every ma; oks on to being a member of Congress, every man pre- pares himi lor it; and the result is quite surprising. You will observe one odd cu«..om— the drinking of sentiments. It is quite extinct with us, but here everybody is expected to be prepared with an epigram aa a matter of course. ... Washington Irving was chairman of this dinner, and having from the first a dread that he should break down in his speech, the catas- trophe came accordingly. Near him sat the Cambridge professor who had come with Dickens by boat from Newhaven, with whom already a warm friendship had been formed that lasted for life, and who has pleasantly sketched what happened. Mr. Felton saw Irving con- stantly in the interval of preparation, and could not but despond at his daily iterated foreboding of "I shall certainly break down": though, besides the real dread, there was a sly humour which height- ened its whimsical horror with an irresistible drollery. But the pro- fessor plucked up hope a little when the night came, and he saw that Irving, had laid under his plate the manuscript cf his speech. During dinner, nevertheless, his old foreboding cry was still heard, and "at last the moment arrived; Mr. Irving rose; and the deafening and long- continued applause by no means lessened his apprehension. He began in his pleasant voice; got through two or three sentences pretty easily, but in the next hesitated; and, after one or two attempts to go on, gave it up, with a graceful allusion to the tournament and the troop of knights all armed and eager fir the fray; and ended with the toast Charles Dickens, the guest of the nation. 'There, said he, as he resumed his seat amid applause as great as had greeted his rising, 'fhcxel I told you I should break down, and I've done it!' " H-^ was in London a few months later, on his way to Spain; and I heard Thomas Moore describe at Rogers's table the difficulty there had been to overcome his reluctance, because of this breakdown, to go to the dinner of the Literary Fund on the occasion of Prince Mbert's presiding. "However," said Moore, "I told him only to a ^empt a few words, and I suggested what they should "be, and he said he'd never thought of anything so easy, and he went and did m m I ■I. ■ 428 The Life of Charles Dickens famously." I knew very well, as I listened, that this h.d not been the result; but as the distinguished American had found himself, on this second occasion, not among orators as in New York, but among men as unable as himself to speak in public, and equally able to do better things, he was doubtless more reconciled to his own failure. I have been l^d to this digression by Dickens's silence on his friend's break- down. He had so great a love for Irving that it was painful to speak of him as at any disadvantage, and of the New York dinner he wrote only in its connection with his own copyright speeches. . "We mean to retu'-n home in a packet-ship — not a steamer. Her name is the George Washin-'on, and she will sail from here, for Liver- pool, on the seventh of June. At that season of the year, they are seldom more than three weeks making the voyage; and I never will trust myself upon the wide ocean, if it please Heaven, in a steamer again. When I tell you all that I observed on board that Britannia, I shall astonish you. Meanwhile, consider two of their dangers. First, that if the funnel were blown overboard, the vessel must instantly be on fire, from stem to stern: to comprehend which consequence, you have only to understand that the funnel is more than 40 feet high, and that at night you see the solid fiire two or three feet above its top. Imagine this swept down by a strong wind, and picture to your- self the amount of flame on deck; and that a strong wind is likely to sweep it down you soon learn, from the precautions taken to keep it up in a storm, when it is the first thing thought of. Secondly, each oi these boats consumes between London and Halifax 700 tons of coals; and it is pretty clear, from this enormous difference -^' - /eight in a ship of only 1200 tons burden in all, that she mu he e - ^. o heavy when she comes out of port, or too light when s 51. The daily difference in her rolling, as she burns the coa, ov' something absolutely fearful. Add to all this, that by day and .i.^,uc she is full of fire and people, that she has no boats, and that the struggling of that enormous machinery in a heavy sea seems as though it would rend her into fragments— and you may have a pretty considerable damned good sort of a feeble notion that it don't fit nohow; and that it an't calculated to make you smart, overmuch; and that you don't feel special bright; and by no means first-rate; and not at all tonguey (or disposed for conversation); and that however rowdy you may be by natur', it does use you up com-plete, and that's a fact; and makes you quake considerable, and disposed toe damn the Engine ! — All of which phrases, I beg to add, are pure Americanisms of the first water. "When we reach Baltimore, we are in the regions of slavery. It exists there, in its least shocking and most mitigated form; but there it is. They whisper, here (they dare only whisper, you know, and that below their breaths), that on that place, and all through the South, there is a dull gloomy cloud on which the very word seems written! I shall be able to say, on*^ of these days, that I accepted no public mark of respect in any place where slavery was; — and that's some- thing. Englan The Life of Charles Dickens 429 t been the If, on this long men do better e. I have I's break- to speak he wrote mer. Her tor Liver- they are Lever will L steamer 'ritannia, srs. First, instantly 3nce, you eet high, ibove it^ to your- likely to o keep it ', each oi of coals; ight in a o heavy .'he daily >mething is full of g of that uld rend damned Lt it an't on't feel guey (or ly be by =ikes you of which ter. very. It lut there md that B South, written, o public 's some- "The ladies of America are decidedly ad unquestionably beauti- ful. Their complexions are not so good as those of Englishwomen; their beauty does not last so long; and their figures are very inferior. But they are most beautiful. I still reserve my opinion of the national character — just whispering that I tremble for a Radical coming here,, unless he is a Radical on principle, by reason and reflection, and from the sense oi right. I fear that if he were anything else, he would return home a Tory. ..." A brief letter, sent me next day by the minister's bag, was in effect a postscript; and expressed still more strongly the i^pprehensions his voyage out had impressed him with, and which, though he after- wards saw reason greatly to modify them, were not so strange at the time as they appear to us now. "Carlton House, New York, February twenty-eighth, 1842. . . . The Caledonia, I grieve and regret to say, has not arrived. If she left England to her time, she has been four and twenty days at sea. There is no news of her; and on the nights of the fourteenth and eighteenth it blew a terrible gale, which almost justifies the worst suspicions. For myself, I have hardly any hope of her; having seen enough, in our passage out to convince me that steaming across the ocean in heavy weather is as yet an experiment of the utmost hazard. "As it v/as supposed that there would be no steamer whatever for England this month (since in ordinar)'- course the Caledonia would have returned with the mails on the 2nd of March) I hastily got the letters ready yesterday and sent them by the Garrick; which may perhaps be three weeks out, but is not very likely to be longer. But belonging to the Cunard Company is a boat called the Unicorn, which in the summer time plies up the St. Lawrence, and brings passengers from Canada to join the British and North American steamers at Halifax. In the winter she lies at the last-mentioned place; from which news has come this morning that they have sent her on to Boston for the mails; and, rather than interrupt the communication, mean to dis- patch her to England in lieu of the poor Caledonia. This in itself, by the way, is a daring deed; for she was originally built to run between Liverpool and Glasgow, and is no more designed for the Atlantic than a Calais packet-boat; thoU||h she once crossed it, in the summer season. "You may judge, therefore, what the owners, think of the proba- bility of the Caledonia's arrival. How slight an alteration in our plans would have made us passengers on board of her ! "It would be difficult to tell you, my dear fellow, what an impres- sion this has made upon our minds, or with what intense anxiety and suspense we have been waiting for your letters from hor-13. We were to have gone South to-day, but linger here until to-morrow afternoon (having sent the secretary'- and luggage forward) for one more chance of news. Love to dear Macready, and to dear Mac, and every rne we care tor. It's useless to speak of the dear children. It seem^ now as though we should never hear of them. . , . I t'i*'' 430 The Life of Charles Dickens -J' It "P.S. Washington Irving is a great fellow. We have laughed most heartily together. He is just the man he ought to be. So is Doctor Channing, with whom I have had an interesting correspondence since I saw him last at Boston. Halleck is a merry little man. Bryant a sad one, and very reserved. Washington Allston the painter (who wrote Monaldi) is a fine specimen of a glorious old genius. Longfellow, whose volume of poems I have got for you, is a frank accomplished man as well as a fine writer, and will be in town 'next fall.' Tell Macready that I suspect prices here must have rather altered since his time. I paid our fortnight's bill here, last night. We have dined out every day (except when I was laid up with a sore throat), and only had in all four bottles of wine. The bill was £70 English ! ! ! "You will see, by my other letter, how we have been fSted and feasted; and how there is war to the knife about the international copyright; and how I will speak about it, and decline to be put down. . . , "Oh for news from home ! I think of y(^ur letters so full of heart arid friendship, with perhaps a little scrawl of Charley's or Mamey's, lying at the bottom of the deep sea; and am as full of sorrow as if they had once been living creatures. — Well ! they may come, yet. ..." PHILADELPHIA AND THE SOUTH 1842 Dickens's next letter was begun in the "United States Hotel, Phila- delphia," and bore date "Sunday, sixth March, 1842." It treated of much dealt with afterwards at greater length in the Notes, but the freshness and vivacity of the first impressions in it have surprised me. I do not, however, print any passage here which has not its own interest independently of anything contained in that book. The rule will be continued, as in the portions of letters already given, if not transcribing anything before printed, or anything having even but a near resemblance to descriptions that appear in the Notes. ". . . I have often asked Americans in London which were the better railroads — ours or theirs? They have taken time for reflection, and generally replied, on mature consideration, that they rather thought we excelled; in respect of the punctuality with which we arrived at our stations, and the smoothness of our travelling. I wish you could see what an American railroad is, in some parts where I now have seen them. I won't say I wish you could feel what it is, The Life of Chailes Dickens 431 hed most is Doctor ice since I ant a sad ho wrote ngfellow, mplished ■all.' Tell i since his lined out and only Sted and rnational 3 be put leart arid klamey's, f sorrow ly come, ;1, Phila- "eated of but the urprised : its own The rule n, if not en but a vere the I flection, Y rather hich we r. I wish where I lat it is, because that would be an unchristian and savage aspiration. It is never enclosed, or warded off. You walk down the main street of a large town: and, slap-dash, headlong, pell-mell, down the middle of the street; with pigs burrowing, and boys flying kites and playing marbles, and men smoking, and women talking, and children crawl- ing, close to the very rails; there comes tearing along a mad locomo- tive with its train of cars, scattering a red-hot shower of sparks (from its wood fire) in all directions; screeching, hissing, yelling, and pant- ing; and nobody one atom more concerned than if it were a hundred miles away. You cross a turnpike-road; and there is no gate, no policeman, no signal — nothing to keep the wayfarer or quiet traveller out r ' the way, but a wooden arch on which is written in great letters "Loo; out for the locomotive." And if any man, woman, or child, don't look out, why it's his or her fault, and there's an end of it. "The cars are like very shabby omnibuses — only larger; holding sixty or seventy people. The seats, instead of being placed long-ways, are put crosswise, back to front. Each holds two. There is a long row of these on each jide of the caravan, and a narrow passage up the centre. The windows are usually all closed, and there is very often, in addition, a hot, close, most intolerable charcoal stove in a red-hot glow. The heat and closeness are quite insupportable. But this is the characteristic of all American houses, of all the public institutions, chapels, theatres, and prisons. From the constant use of the hard anthracite coal in these beastly furnaces, a perfectly new class of diseases is springing up in the country. Their effect upon an English- man is briefly told. He is always very sick and very faint; and has an intolerable headache, morning, noon, and night. "In the ladies' car, there is no smoking of tobacco allowed. All gentlemen who have ladies with them, sit in this car; and it is usually very full. Before it, is the gentlemen's car; which is something nar- rower. As I had a window close to me yesterday which commanded this gentleman's car, I looked at it pretty often, perforce. The flashes of saliva flew so perpetually and incessantly out of the windows all the way, that it looked as though they were ripping open feather- beds inside, and letting the wind dispose of the feathers. But this spitting is universal. In the courts of law, the judge has his spittoon on the bench, the counsel have theirs, the witness has his, the prisoner his, and the crier his. The jury are accommodated at the rate of three m-^n to a spittoon (or spit-box as they call it here); and the spectators in the gallery are provided for, as so many men who in the course of nature expectorate without cessation. There are spit-boxes in every steamboat, bar-room, public dining-room, house or ofiice, and place of general resort, no matter what it be. In the hospitals, the students are requested, by placards, to use the boxes provided for them, and not to spit upon the stairs. I have twice seen gentlemen, at evening parties in New York, turn aside when they were not engaged in con- versation, and spit upon the drawing-room carpet. And iu every bar- room and hotel passage the stone floor looks as if it were paved with m pffBf 432 The Life of Charles Dickens open oysters — from the quantity of this kind of deposit which tessellates it all over. ..." "Washington, Sundny, March the Thirteenth, 1842. "I must tell you a slight experience I had in Philadelphia. My rooms had been ordered for a week, but, in consequence of Kate's illness, only Mr. Q and the luggage had gone on. Mr. Q always lives at the table d'hote, so that while we were in New York our rooms were empty. The landlord not only charged me half the full rent for the time during which the rooms were reserved for us (which was quite right), but charged me also/oy board for myself and Kate and Anne, at the rate of nine dollars per day for the same period, when we were actually living, at the same expense, in New York!!! I did remonstrate upon this head; but was coolly told it was the custom (which I have since been assured is a lie), and had nothing for it but to pay the amount. What else could I do? I was going away by the steamboat at five o'clock in the morning; and the landlord knew per- fectly well that my disputing an item of his bill would draw down upon me the sacred wrath of the newspapers, which would one and all demand in capitah if this was the grititude of the man whom America had received as she had never received any other man but La Fayette? , "I went last Tuesday to the Eastern Penitentiary near Phila- delphia, which is the only prison in the Stater, or I believe, in the world, on the principle of hopeless, strict, and unrelaxed solitary con- finement, during the whole term of the sentence. It is wonderfully kept, but a most dreadful, fearful place. The inspectors, immediately on my arrival in Philadelphia, invited me to pass the day in the jail, and to dine with them when I had finished my inspection, that they might hear my opinion of the system. Accordingly I passed the whole day in going from cell to cell, and conversing with the prisoners. Every facility was given me, and no constraint whatever imposed upon any man's free speech. If I were to write you a letter of twenty sheets, I could not tell you this one day's work; so I will reserve it until that happy time when we shall sit round the table at Jack Straw's— you. and I, and Mac— and go over my diary. I never shall be able to dismiss from my mind the impr'-ssions of that day. Making notes of them, as I have done, is an absurdity, for they are written, beyond all power of erasure, in my brain. I saw men who had been there five years, six years, eleven years, two years, two months, two days; some whose term was nearly over, and some whose term had only just begun. Women too, under the same variety of circumstances. Every prisoner who comes into the jail, comes at night; is put into a bath, and dressed in the prison garb; and then a black hood is drawn over his face and head, and he is led to the cell from which he never stirs again until his whole period of confinement has expired. I looked at some of them with the same awe as I should have looked at men The Life of Charles Dickens sit which tth, 1842. My rooms e's illness, ways lives our rooms ill rent for rvhich was ' Kate and , when we k!!! I did tie custom ; for it but ay by the knew per- raw down )ne and all lan whom r man but ear Phila- ive, in the litary con- onderfuUy mediately in the jail, that they the whole prisoners. r imposed of twenty reserve it e at Jack lever shall ,y. Making :e written, had been 3nths, two term had imstances. put into a d is drawn h he never d. I looked :ed at men 433 who had been buried alive, and dug up again. "We dined in the jail: and I told them after dinner how much the sight had allected me, and what an awful punishment it was. I dwelt upon this; for, although the inspectors are extremely kind and benevolent men, I question whether they are sufficiently acquainted with the human mind to know what it is they are doing. Indeed, I am sure they do not know. I bore testimony, as every one who sees it must, to the admirable government of the institution (Stanfield is the keeper: grown a little younger, that's all); and added that nbthing could justify such a punishment, but its working a reformation in the prisoners. That for short terms — say two years for the maximum — I conceived, especially after what they had told me of its good effects in certain cases, it might perhaps be highly beneficial; but that, carried to so great an extent, I thought it cruel and unjustifiable; and further, that their sentences for small offences were very rigorous, not to say savage. All this they took like men who were really anxious to have one's free opinion, and to do right. And we were very much pleased with each other, and parted in the friendliest way . . . "I said I wouldn't write anything more concerning the American people, for two months. Second thoughts are best. I shall not change, and may as well speak out — to you. They are friendly, earnest, hospit- able, kind, frank, very often accomplished, far less prejudiced than you wo^Tld suppose, warm-hearted, fervent, and enthusiastic. They are chivalrous in their universal politeness to women, courteous, obliging, disinterested; and, when they conceive a perfect affection for a man (as I may venture to say of myself), entirely devoted to him. I have received thousands of people of all ranks and grades, and have never once been asked an offensive or unpolite question — except by Englishmen, who, when they have been 'located' here for some years, are worse than the devil in his blackest painting. The State is a parent to its people: has a parental care and watch over all poor children, women labouring of child, sick persons, and captives. The common men render you assistance in the streets, and would revolt from the offer of a piece of money. The desire to oblige is universal; and I have never once travelled in a public conveyance, without making some generous acquaintance whom I have been sorry to part from, and who has in many cases come on miles, to see us again. But I don't like the country. I would not live here on any considera- tion It goes against the grain with me. It would with you. I think it impossible, utterly impossible, for any Englishman to live here and be happy. I have a confidence that I must be right, because I have everything, God knows, to lead me to the opposite conclusion: and yet I cannot resist coming to this one. As to the causes, they are too many to enter upon here, ..." The reader of the American Notes will remember the humorous description of the night steamer on the Potomac, and of the black driver over the Virginia Road. Both were in th'" letter; which, after i|:| %'i ■ 434 The Life of Charles Dickens three days, he resumed "At Washington again, Monday, March the twenty-first. "We had intended to go to Baltimore from Richmond, by a place called Norfolk: but one of the boats being under repair, I found we should probably be detained at this Norfolk two days. Therefore we came back here yesterday, by th** road we had travelled before; lay here last night; and go on to Baltimore this afternoon, at four o'clock. It is a journey of only two hours and a half. Richmond is a prettily situated town; but, like other towns in slave districts (as the planters themselves admit), has an aspect of decay and gloom which to an unaccustomed eye is most distressing. In the black car (for they don't let them sit with the whites) on the railroad as we went there, were a mother and family whom the steamer was conveying away, to sell; retaining the man (the husband and father I mean) on his plantation. The children cried the whole way. Yesterday, on board the boat, a slave owner and two constables were our fellow-passengers. They were coming here in search of two negroes who had run away on the previous day. On the bridge at Richmond there is a notice against fast driving over it, as it is rotten and crazy: penalty — for whites, five dollars; for slaves, fifteen stripes. My heart is lightened as if a great load had been taken from it, when I think that we are turning our backs on this accursed and detested system. I really don't think I could have borne it ? ny longer. It is all very well to say ' be silent on the subject. ' They won't let you be silent. They will ask you what you think of it; and will expatiate on slavery as if it were one of the greatest blessings of mankind. 'It's not,' said a hard, bad-looking fel- low to me the other day, ' it's not the interest of a man to use his slaves ill. It's damned nonsense that you hear in England.' — I told him quietly that it was not a man's interest to get drunk, or to steal, or to game, or to indulge in any other vice, but he did indulge in it for all that. That cnielty, and the abuse of irresponsible power, were two of the bad passions of human nature, with the gratification of which, considerations of interest or of ruin had nothing whatever to do; and that, while every candid man must admit that even a slaVe might be happy enougli with a good master, all human beings knew that bad masters, cruel masters, and masters who disgraced the form they bore, were matters of experience and history, whose existence was as undisputed as that of slaves themselves. He was a little taken aback by this, and asked me if I believed in the Bible. Yes, I said, but if any man could prove to me that it sanctioned slavery, I would place no further credence in it. 'Well, then,' he said, 'by God, sir, the niggers must be kept down, and the whites have put down the coloured people wherever they have found them.' 'That's the whole question,' said I. 'Yes, and by God,' says he, 'the British had better not stand out on that point when Lord Ashburton comes over, for I oev^r felt so warlike as I do now, — and that's a fact.' I was obliged t<>aec^pi a public supper in this Richmond, and I saw plainly enough, khe^re, that the hatred which these Southern States bear to us as a [arch the y a place found we refore we ;fore; lay r o'clock. I prettily ! planters ich to an ley don't e, were a ^, to sell; antation. e boat, a Ts. They ly on the e against r whites, :d as if a B turning n't think silent on what you le of the )king fel- o use his '—I told • to steal, e in it for were two jf which, 3 do; and might be that bad )rm they gnce was de taken said, but I would 1, sir, the own the he whole id better /er, for I s obliged ' enough, > us as a The Life of Charles Dickens 435 nation has been fanned up and revived again by this Creole business, and can scarcely be exaggerated. ... We were desperately tired at Richmond, as we went to a great many places, and received a very great number of visitors. We appoint usually two hours in every day for this latter purpose, and have our room so full at that period that it is difficult to move or breathe. Before we left Richmond, a gentle- man told me, when I really was so exhausted that I could hardly stand, that 'three people of great fashion' were much offended by having been told, when they called last evening, that I was tired and not visible, then, but would be 'at home' from twelve to two next day! Another gentleman (no doubt of great fashion also) sent a letter to me two hours after I had gone to bed preparatory to rising at four next morning, with instructions to the slave who brought it to knock me up and wait for an answer I ..." CANAL AND STEAM BOAT JOURNEYS 1842 It would not be possible that a more vivid or exact impression, than that which is derivable from these letters, could be given of either the genius or the character of the writer. The whole man is here in the supreme hour of his life, and in all the enjoyment of its highest sensations. Inexpressibly sad to me has been the task of going over them. ... ■',; .,., His next letter was begun from "On board the canal boat. Going to Pittsburgh. Monday, March twenty-eighth, 1842"; and the difficulties of rejection, to which reference has just been made, have been nowhere felt by me so much. Several of the descrip- tive masterpieces of the book are in it, with such touches of original freshness as might fairly have justified a reproduction of them in their first form. Among these are the Harrisburgh coach on its way through the Susquehanah Valley; the railroad across the mountain; the brown-forester of the Mississippi, the interrogative m.an in pepper-and-salt, and the affecting scene of the emigrants put ashore as the steamer passes up the Ohio. But all that I may here give, bearing any resemblance to what is given in the Notes, are, the open- ing sketch of the small creature on the top of the queer stage coach, to which the printed version fails to do adequate justice; and an experi^'ice to which the interest belongs of having suggested the .<5f»ff-lf>mPTTf nf TTHAn in A/Tnvi'in/t ^hiivflaim'tf " WTa !«*•(- D^li.: -.. , ,,....,„,„^„,,, , , ,,^^ ii_it -UdiHIiiUiC last Thursday the twenty-fourth at half-past eight in the morning, by railroad; and got to a place called York, about twelve. There we f-| 436 The Life of Charles Dickens '< it dined, and took a stage-coach for Harrisburgh; twenty-five miles further. This stage-coach was like nothing so much as the body of one of the swings you see at a fair set upon four wheels and roofed and covered at the sides with painted canvas. There were twelve inside ! I, thank my stars, was on the box. The luggage was on the roof; among it, a good-sized dining-table, and a big rocking-chair. We also took up an intoxicated gentleman, who sat for ten miles between me and the coachman; and another intoxicated gentleman who got up behind, but in the course of a mile or two fell off without hurting himself, and was seen in the distant perspective reeling back to the grog-shop where we had found him. There were four horses to this land-ark, of course; but we did not perform the journey until half-past six o'clock that night. . . , The first half of the journey was tame enough, but the second lay through the valley of the Susquehanah (I think I spell it right, but I haven't that American Geography at hand) which is very beautiful. . . . "You know my small respect for our House of Commons. These local legislatures are too insufferably apish of mighty legislation, to be seen without bile: for which reason, and because a great crowd of senators and ladies had assembled in both houses to behold the Inimitable, and had already begun to pour in upon him even in the secretary's private room, I went back to the hotel, with all speed. The members of both branches of the legislature followed me there, however, so we had to hold the usual levee bofore our half-past one o'clock dinner. We received a p~eat number of them. Pretty nearly every man spat upon the carpet, as usual; and one blew his nose — with his fingers — also on the carpet, which was a very neat one, the room given up to us being the private parlour of the landlord's wife. This has become so common since, however, that it scarcely seems worth mentioning. Please to observe that the gentleman in question was a member of the Senate, which answers (as they very often tell me) to our House of Lords. "The innkeeper was the most attentive, civil, and obliging person I ever saw in my life. On being asked for his bill, he said there was no bill: the honour and pleasure, etc., being more than sufficient. I did not permit this, of course; and begged Mr. Q to explain to him, that, travelling four strong, I could not hear of it on any account. "And now I come to the Canal Boat. Bless your heart and soul, my dear fellow, — if you could only see us on board the canal boat ! Let me think, for a moment, at what time of the day or night I should best like you to see us. In the morning? Between five and six in the morning, shall I say? Well! you would like to see me, standing on the deck, fishing the dirty water out of the canal with a tin ladle chained to the boat by a long chain; pouring the same into a tin basin (also chained uv in like manner^: and scrubbinf^ rniy face with the jack-towel. At night, shall I say? I don't know that you would like to look into the cabin at night, only to see me lying on a tern- ve miles body of id roofed e twelve Ls on the ng-chair. en miles jntleman ; without ing back horses to ley until journey y of the Imerican 8. These ation, to crowd of hold the ;n in the 11 speed, le there, past one ;y nearly s nose — one, the d's wife, ly seems question )ften tell g person lere was afficient. explain ; on any nd soul, al boat! night I i and six standing tin ladle to a tin ace with >u would 1 a tem- The Life of Charles Dickens 437 porary shelf exactly the width of this sheet of paper when it's open (/ measured it this morning), with one man above me, and another below; and, in all, eight and twenty in a low cabin, which you can't stand upright in with your hat on. I don't think you would like to look in at breakfast time either, for then these shelves have only just been taken down and put away, and the atmosphere of the place is, as you may suppose, by no means fresh; though there are upon the table tea and coffee, and bread and butter, and salmon, and shad, and liver, and steak, and potatoes, and pickles, and ham, and pudding, and sausages; and three and thirty people sitting round it, eating and drinlcing; and savoury bottles of gin, and whisky, and brandy, and rum, in the bar hard by; and seven and twenty out of the eight and twenty men, in foul linen, with yellow streams from half-chewed tobacco trickling down their chins. Perhaps the best time for you to take a peep would be the present: eleven o'clock in the forenoon: when the barber is at his shaving, and the gentlemen are lounging about the stove waiting for their turns, and not more than seventeen are spitting in concert, and two or three are walking overhead (lying down on the luggage every time the man at the helm calls 'Bridge !'), and I am writing this in the ladies' cabin, which is a part of the gentlemen's, and only screened off by a red curtain. Indeed it exactly resembles the dwarf's private apartment in a caravan at a fair; and the gentlemen, generally, represent the spectators at a penny-a-head. The place is just as clean and just as large as that caravan you and I were in at Greenwich Fair last past. Outside, it is exactly like any canal boat you have seen near the Regent's Park, or elsewhere. "You never can conceive what the hawking and spitting is, the whole night through. Last night was the worst. Upon my honour and word I was obliged, this morning, to lay my fur-coat on the deck, and wipe the half-dried flakes of spittle from it with my handker- chief: and the only surprise seemed to be, that I should consider it necessary to do so. When I turned in last night, I put it on a stool beside me, and there it lay, under a cross fire from five men — three opposite; one above; and one below. I make no complaints, and show no disgust. I am looked upon as highly facetious at night, for I crack jokes with everybody near me until we fall asleep. I am considered very hardy in the morning, for I run up, bare-necked, and plunge my head into the half-frozen water, by half-past five o'clock. I am re- spected for my activity, inasmuch as I jump from the boat to the towing-path, and walk five or six miles before breakfast; keeping up with the horses all the time. In a word, they are quite astonished to find a sedentary Englishman roughing it so well, and taking so much exercise; and question me very much on that head. The greater part of the men will sit and shiver round the stove c.ll day, rather than ■nn^ r\nf» ■fnr^'f K^^j-f/^ria -fliA rk-Mioi- Ac? "fr\ T-i< ' * ,( not to be thought of. "I told you of the many uses of the word 'fix.' I ask Mr. Q 438 The Life of Charles Dickens on board a steam-boat if breakfast be nearly ready, and he tells me yes he should think so, for when he was last below the steward was 'fixing the tables' — in other wirds, laying the cloth. When we have been writing, and I beg him (do you remember anything of my love of order, at this distance of time?) to collect our papers, he answers that he'll 'fix 'em presently.' So when a man's dressing he's 'fixing' himself, and when you put yourself under a doctor he 'fixes' you in no time. T'other night, before we came on board here, when I had ordered a bottle of mulled claret and waited some time for it, it was put on table with an apology from the landlord (a lieutenant-colonel) that 'he fear'd it wasn't fixed properly.' And here, on Saturday morn- ing, a Western man, handing the potatoes to Mr. Q- — at breakfast, inquired if he wouldn't take some of 'these fixings' with his meat. I remained as grave as a judge. I catch them looking at me some- times, and feel that they think I don't take any notice. Politics are very high here; dreadfully strong; handbills, denunciations, invec- tives, threats, and quarrels. The question is, who shall be the next president. The election comes off in three years and a-half from this time." . . . All' •if' \i i "Still in the Same Boat. April the Second, 1842. "Many, many, happy returns of the day. It's only eight o'clock in the morning now, but we mean to driiv.c your health after dinner, in a bumper; and scores of Richmond dinners to us I We have some wine (a present sent on board by our Pittsburgh landlord) in our own cabin; and we shall tap it to good purpose, I assure you; wishing "ou all manner and kinds of happiness, and a long life to ourselves that we may be partakers of it. . . . "Let me tell you that the other night at Pittsburgh, there being present only Mr. Q and the portrait-painter, Kate sat down, laughing, for me to try my hand upon her. 1 had been holding forth upon the subject rather luminously, and asserting that I thought I could exercise the influence, but had never tried. In six minutes, I magnetised her into hysterics, and then into the magnetic sleep. I tried again next night, and she fell into the slumber in little more than two minutes. ... I can wake her with perfect ease; but I confess (not being prepared for anything so sudden and complete) I was on the first occasion rather alarmed. . . . The Western parts being sometimes hazardous, I have fitted out the whole of my little company/ with Life Preservers, which I inflate with gi-eat solemnity when we get aboard any boat, and keep, as Mrs. Cluppins did her umbrella in the court of common pleas, ready for use upon a moment's notice. . . ." He resumed his letter, on "Sunday, April the third." . . . "At Pittsburgh I saw another solitary confinement prison: Pitts- burgh being also in Pennsylvania. A horrible thought occurred to me when I was recalling all I had seen, that night. What if ghosts be I i The Life of Charles Dickens 439 one of the terrurs of the jails? I have pondered on it often, since then. The utter solitude by day and night; the many hours of darkness; the silence of death; the mind for ever brooding on melancholy themes, and having no relief; sometimes an evil conscience very busy: imagine a prisoner covering up his head in the bedclothes and looking out from time to time, with a ghastly dread of some inex- plicable silent figure that always sits upon his bed, or stands (if a thing can be said to stand, that never walks as men do) in the same comer of his cell. The more I think of it, the more certain I feel that not a few of these men (during a portion of their imprisonment at least) are nightly visited by spectres. I did ask one man in this last jail, if he dreamed much. He gave me a most extraordinary look, and said — under his breath — in a whisper — No.' . . , i II VI FAR west: to NIAGARA FALLS 1842 The next letter described his experiences in the Far West, his stay in St. Louis, his visit to a Prairie, the return to Cincinnati, and, aftra: a stage-coach ride from that city to Columbus, the travel thence to Sandusky, and so, by Lake Erie, to the Falls of Niagara. All these subjects appear in the Notes, but nothing printed there is repeated in the extracts now to be given : "... They won't let me alone about slavery. A certain Judge in St. Louis went so far yesterday, that I fell upon him (to the indescrib- able horror of the man who brought him) and told him a piece of my mind. I said that I was very averse to speaking on the subject here, and always forbore, if possible: but when he pitied our national ignorance of the truths of slavery, I must remind him that we went upon indisputable records, obtained after many years of careful investigation, and at all sorts of self-sacrifice; and that I believed we were much more competent to judge of its atrocity and horror, than he who had been brought up in the midst of it. I told him that I could sympathise with men who admitted it to be a dreadful evil, but fra.nkly confessed their inability to devise a means of getting rid of it: but that men who spoke of it as a blessing, as a matter of course, as a state of things to be desired, were out of the pale of reason; and that for them to speak of ignorance or prejudice was an absurdity too ridiculous to be combated. ... "It is not six vears ago, since a slave in this very same St. Louis being arrested (1 forget for what), and knowing be bad no chance of a fair trial be his offence what it might, drew his bowie knife and 440 The Life of Charles Dickens ripped the constable across the body. A scuffle ensuing, the desperate negro stabbed two others with the same weapon. The mob who gathered round (among whom were men of mark, wealth, and in- fluence in the place) overpowered him by numbers, carried him away to a piece of open ground beyond the city; and burned him alive. This, I say, was done within six years in broad day; in a city with its courts, lawyers, tipstaffs, judges, jails, and hangman; and not a hair on the head of one of those men has been hurt to this day. And it is, believe me, it is the miserable, wretched independence in small things; the paltry republicanism which recoils from honest service to an honest man, but does not shrink from every trick, artifice, and knavery in business; that makes these slaves necessary, and will render them so, until the indignation of other countries sets them free. . . . w I "SxMii Boat, Saturday, Sixteenth April, 1842. "Let me tell you, my dear Forster, before I forget it, a pretty little scene we had on board the boat between Louisville and St. Louis, as we were going to the latter place. It is not much to tell, but it was very pleasant and interesting to witness." What follows has been printed in the Notes, and ought not, by the rule I have laid down, to be given here. But, beautiful as the printed description is, it has not profited by the alteration of seme touches, and the omission of others in the first fresh version of it, which, for that reason, I here preserve — one of the most charming poul-felt pictures of character and emotion that ever warmed the heart in fact or fiction. It was, I think, Jeffrey's favourite passage in all the writings of Dickens: and certainly, if anyone would learn the secret of their popularity, it is to be read in the observation and description of this little incident. "There was a little woman on board, with a little baby; and both little woman and little child were cheerful, good-looking, bright- eyed, and fair to see. The little woman had been passing a long time with a sick mother in New York, and had left her home in St. Louis in that condition in which ladies who truly love their lords desire to be. The baby had been born in her mother's house, and she had not seen her husband (to whom she was now returning) for twelve months: having left him a month or two after their marriage. Well, to be sure, there never was a little woman so full of hope, and tenderness, and love, and anxiety, as t^ is little woman was: and there she was, all the livelong day, wonde- ing whether 'he' would be at the wharf; and whether 'he' had got her letter; and whether, if she sent the baby on shore by somebody else, 'Ae' would know it, meeting it in the street: which, seeing that he had never set ej.os upon it in his life, was not very likely in the abstract, but was probable enough to the young mo*"her. She was such an artless little creature; and was in such a sunny, beaming, hopeful state; and let out all this matter, The Life of Charles Dickens esperate lob who and in- im away m alive. with its )t a hair ind it is, n small : service [ice. and md will tts them /, 1842. a, pretty and St. I to tell, not, by il as the of seme Dn of it, harming med the Lssage in 3arn the ion and nd both bright- )ng time It. Louis iesire to had not ■ twelve :e. Well, pe, and i^as: and i^ould be iT, if she meeting ►on it in ! enough and was matter, 441 chnging close about her heart, so freely; that all the other lady passengers entered into the spirit of it as much as she: and the captain (who heard all about it from his wife) was wondrous sly, I promise you: inquiring, every time we met at table, whether she expected anybody to meet her at St. Louis, and supposing she wouldn't want to go ashore the night we reached it. and cutting many other dry jokes which convulsed all his hearers, but especially the ladies. There was one little, weazen, dried-apple old woman among them, who took occasion to doubt the constancy of husbands under such circumstances of bereavement; and there was another lady (with a lap dog), old enough to moralise on the lightness of human affections, and yet not so old that she could help nursing the baby now and then, or laughing with the rest when the little woman called it by its father's name, and asked it all manner of fantastic questions concerning him, in the joy of her heart. It was something of a blow to the little woman, that when we were within twenty miles of our destination, it became clearly necessary to put the baby to bed; but she got over that with the same good humour, tied a little handkerchief over her little head, and came out into the gallery with the rest. Then, such an oracle as she became in referenr-j to the localities! and such facetiousness as was displayed by the ma Tied ladies! and such sympathy as was shown by ^'le single onti and such peals of laughter as the little woman her^ J (who would j^rst as soon have cried) greeted every jest with! At last, there were the lights of St. Louis— and here was the wharf— and those were the steps— and the little woman, co-ering her face with her hands, and laughing, or seeming to laugh, more than ever, ran into her own cabin, and shut herself up tight. I have no doubt that, in the charm- ing inconsistency of such excitement, she stopped her ears lest she should hear 'him' asking for her; but 1 didn't see her do it. Then a great crowd of people rushed ^" board, though the boat was not yet made fast, and was staggering about among the other boats to find a landing-place; and everybody looked for the husband, and nobody saw him; when all of a sudden, right in the midst of them— God knows how rhe ever got there— there was the little woman hugging with both arms round the neck of 2 fine, good-looking, sturdy fellow 1 And in a moment afterwards, there she was again, dragging him through the small door of her small cabin, to look at the baby as he lay asleep ! — What a good thing it is to know that so many of us would have been quite downhearted and sorry if that husband had failed to come." ... "Sandusky. "Sunday, Twenty-fourth April, 1842. ". . . We remained at Cincinnati all Tuesday the nineteenth, and all that night. At eight o'clock on Wednesday morning the twentieth. wo left ill the mail stage for Columbus: Anne, Kate, and Mr. Q inside; I on the box. The distance is a hundred and twenty miles; 442 The Life of Charles Dickens the road macadamised; and for an American road, very good. We were tliree and twenty hours performing the journey. We travelled all night; reached Columbus at seven in the morning; breakfasted; and went to bed until dinner time. At night we held a levee for half an hour, and the people poured in as they always do: each gentleman with a lady on each arm, exactly like the Chorus to God Save the Queen. I wish you could see them, that you might know what a splendid comparison this is. They wear their clothes precisely as the chorus people do; and stand — supposing Kate and me to be in the centre of the stage, with our backs to the footlights — just as the company would, on the first night of the season. They shake hands exactly after the manner of the guests at a ball at the Adelphi or the Haymarket; receive any facetiousness on my part, as if there were a stage direction 'all laugh'; and have rather more difficulty in 'getting off' than the last gentlemen, in white pantaloons, polished boots, and berlins, usually display, under the most trying circum- stances. ... "An inn at which we halted was a rough log-house. The people were all abed, and we had to knock them up. We had the queerest sleeping-room, with two doors, one opposite the other; both opening directly on the wild black country, and neither having any lock or bolt. The effect of these opposite doors was, that one was always blowing the other open: an ingenuity in the art of building, which I don't remember to have met with before. You should have seen me, in my shirt, blockading them with portmanteaux, and desperately endeavouring to make the room tidy ! But the blockading was really needful, for in my dressing-case I have about ;^25o in gold; and for the amount of the middle fi<?ure in that scarce metal, there are not a few men in the West who would murder their fathers. Apropos of this golden store, consider at your leisure the strange state of things in this country. It has no money; really no money. The bank paper won't pass; the newspapers are full of advertisements from trades- men who sell by barter; and American gold is not to be had, or purchased. I bought sovereigns, English sovereigns, at first: but as I could get none of them at Cincinnati to this day, I have had to purchase French gold; 20-franc pieces; with which I am travelling as if I were in Paris ! "But let's go back to Lower Sandusky. Mr. Q went to bed up in the roof of the log-house somewhefe, but was so beset by bugs that he got up after an hour and lay in the coach . . , where he was obliged to wait till breakfast time. We breakfasted, driver and all, in the one common room. It was papered with newspapers, and was as rough a place as need be. At half-past seven we started again, and we reached Sandusky at six o'clock yesterday afternoon. It is or Lake Erie, twenty-four hours' journey by steam-boat from Buffalo. We found no boat here, nor has there been one, since. We are waiting, with every thing packed up, ready to start on the shortest notice; and are anxiously looking out for smoke in the distance. . . , "I do Sandusl^ as I finis whereup hasty ap the spee burden, and had talking ; to sea-si as the / We reac sent to can say our Eng "We ] called C crowds, 'gentleni stared ir in bed. I in that t war witt again,' a should s courts present ] bade Mi very coc a whittl closed di the big i "1 ne^ from Bu two hou: the roar, in Liver] Lincoln' I white cl( They ro; Kate dc bullied J and felt, louder ir "Ther what no The Life of Charles Dickens 443 "Tuesday, April Twenty-sixth, 1842. "NiAv.ARA Falls!!! (upon the English side). "I don't know at what length I might have written you from Sandusky, my beloved friend, if a steamer had not come in sight just as I finished the last unintelligible sheet (oh I the ink in these parts !): whereupon I was obliged to pack up bag and baggage, to swallow a hasty apology for a dinner, and to hurry my train on board with all the speed I might. She was a fine steamship, four hundred tons burden, name the Constitution, had very few passengers on board, and had bountiful and handsome accommodation. It's all very fine talking about Lake Erie, but it won't do for persons who are liable to sea-sickness. We were all sick. It's almost as bad in that respect as the Atla^+ic. The waves are very short, and horribly constant. We reached iuffalo at six this morning; went ashors to breakfast; sent to the post-ofiice forthwith; and received — oh! who or what can say with how much pleasure and what unspeakable delight I — our English letters ! "We lay all Sunday night at a town (and a beautiful town too) called Cleveland, on Lake Erie. The people poured on board, in crowds, by six on Monday morning, to see me; and a part^-^ of 'gentlemen' actually planted themselves before our little cabin, and stared in at the door and windows while I was washing, and Kate lay in bed. I was so incensed at this, and at a certain newspaper published in that town which I had accidentally seen in Sandusky (advocating war with England to the denth, saying that Britain must be 'whipped again,' and promising all true Americans that within two years they should sing Yankee Doodle m Hyde Park and Hail Columbia in the courts of Westminster), that when the mayor came on board to present himself to me, according to custom, I refused to see him, and bade Mr. Q tell him why and wherefore. His honour took it very coolly, and retired to the top ol the wharf, with a big stick and a whittling \nife, with which he worked so lustily (staring at the closed door of our cabin all the time) that long before the boat left the big stick was no bigger than a cribbage peg ! "I never in my life was in such a state of excitement as coming from Buffalo here, this morning. You come by railroad; and are nigh two hours upon the way. I looked out for the spray, and listened for the roar, as far beyond the bounds of possibility, as though, landing in Liverpool, I were to licten for the music of your pleasant voice in Lincoln's Inn Fields. At la.«t, when the train stopped, I saw two great white clouds rising up from the depths of the earth — nothing more. They rose up slowly, gently, majestically, into the air. I dragged Kate down a deep and slippery path leading to the ferry boat: bullied Anne for not coming fast enough; perspired at every pore: and felt, it is impossible to say how, as the sound grew louder ana louder in my ears, and yet nothing could be seen for the mist. "There were two English oiiicers with us (ahi what gentlemen, what noblemen of nature they seened), and they hurried oft with /' y '^ * I Hi m H 444 The Life of Charles Dickens me; leaving Kate and Anne on a crag of ice; and clambered after me over the rocks at the foot of the small Fall, while the ferryman was getting the boat ready. I was not disappointed — but I could make out nothing. In an instant, I was blinded by the spray, and wet to the skin. I saw the water tearing madly down from some immense height, but could get no idea of shape, or situation, or anything but vague immensity. But when we were seated in the boat, and crossing at the very foot of the cataract — then I began to feel what it was. Directly I had changed my clothes at the inn I went out again, taking Kate with me; and hurried to the Horseshoe Fall. I went down alone, into the very basin. It would be hard for a man to stand nearer God than he does there. There was a bright rainbow at my feet; and from that I looked up to — great Heaven ! to what a fall of bright green water! The broad, deep, mighty stream seems to die in the act of falling; and, from its unfathomable grave, arises that tremendous ghost of spray and mist which is never laid, and has been haunting this place with the same dread solemnity — perhaps from the creation of the world. "We purpose remaining here a week. In my next, I will try to give you some idea of my impressions, and to tell you hcv they change with every day. At present it is impossible. I can only say that the first eftect of this tremendous spectacle on me, was peace of mind — tranquillity — great thoughts of eternal rest and happiness — nothing of terror. I can shudder at the recollection of Glencoe (dear friend, with Heaven's leave we must see Glencoe together), but whenever I think of Niagara, I shall think of its beauty." VII "AMERICAN notes" 1842. Reality did not fall short of his anticipation of home. His return was the occa- ion of unbounded enjoyment; and what he had planned before sailing as the way we should meet, received literal fulfilment. By the sound of his cheery voice I first knew that he was come; and from my house we went together to Maclise, also "without a moment's wariiing." A Greenwich dinner in which several friends (Talfourd, Milnes, Procter, Maclise, Stanfield, Marryat, Barham, Hood, and Cruikshank among them) took part, and other immediate greetings, followed; but the most special celebration was reserved for autumn, when, by way of challenge to what he had seen while abroad, a home- journey was arranged with Stanfield, Maclise, and myself for his companions, into such of the most striking scenes of a picturesque The Life of Charles Dickens 445 after me '^man was uld make id wet to im,mense thing but 1 crossing it it was. ut again, ent down nd nearer feet; and ght green he act of ;mendous haunting 3 creation ry to give y change that the if mind — —nothing ar friend, tienever I [is return I planned alfilment. ome; and noment's Palfourd, ood, and greetings, autumn, , a home- i for his ;turesque English county as the majority of us might not before have visited: Cornwall being ultimately chosen. Before our departure he was occupied by his preparation of the American Notes; and to the same interval belongs the arrival ' i London of Mr. Longfellow, who became his guest, and (for both of us I am privileged to add) our attached friend. Longfellow's name was not then the familiar word it has since been in England; but he had already written several of his most felicitous pieces, and he possessed all the qualities of delightful companionship, the culture and the charm, which have no higher type than the accomplished and genial American. He reminded me, when lately again in England, of two experiences out of many we had enjoyed together this quarter of a century before. One of them was a day at Rochester, when, met by one of those prohibitions which are the wonder of visitors and the shame of Englishmen, we overleapt gates and barriers, and, setting at defiance repeated threats of all the terrors of law coarsely expressed to us by the custodian of the place, explored minutely the castle ruins. The other was a night among those portions of the population which outrage law and defy its terrors all the days of their lives, the tramps and thieves of London; when, under guidance and protection of the most trusted officers of the two great metropolitan prisons afforded to us by Mr. Chesterton and Lieut. Tracy, we went over the worst haunts of the most dangerous classes. Nor will it be unworthy of remark, in proof that attention is not drawn vainly to such scenes, that, upon Dickens going ovei them a dozen years later when he wTote a paper about them for his Household Words, he found important changes etfected whereby these human dens, if not less dangerous, were become certainly more decent. On the night of our earlier visit, Maclise, who accompanied us, was struck with such sickness on entering the first of the Mint lodging-houses in the Borough, that he had to remain, for the time we were in them, under guardianship of the police outside. Longfellow returned home by the Great Western from Bristol on 21 October, enjoying as he passed through Bath the hospitality of Landor; and at the end of the following week we started on our Cornish travel. . . . With the opening of September I had renewed report of his book, and of other matters. "The Philadelphia ch^ipter I think veiy good, but I am sorry to say it has not made as much in print as I hoped. . . . In America they have forged a letter witii my signature, which they coolly declare appeared in the Chronirie. with the copyright circular; and in which I express myself in such ^rms as you may imagine, in reference to the dinners and so forth. It has been widelj distributed all over the States; and the felon who invented it is a 'smart man' of course. You are to understand that it is not done as a joke, and is scurrilously reviewed. Mr. Park Benjamin begins a lucubration upon it with these capitals, Dickens is a Fool, and a Liar. ... I have a new protege, in tiie person of a wretched deaf and dumb boy whom I found upon the sands the other day, half dead, and have got (for i ' [I f It ,t »i 446 The Life of Charles Dickens Ih a.* I the present) into the union infirmary at Minster. A most deplorable case." The printers were now hard at work, and in the last week of September he wrote: "I send you proofs as far as Niagara. ... I am rather holiday-making this week . . . taking principal part in a regatta here yesterday, very pretty and gay indeed. We think of coming up in time for Macready's opening, when perhaps you will give us a chop; and of course you and Mac will dine with us the next day? I shall leave nothing of the book to do after coming home, please God, but the two chapters on slavery and the people which I could manage easily in a week, if need were. . . . The policeman who supposed the Duke of Brunswick to be one of the swell mob, ought instantly to be made an inspector. The suspicion reflects the highest credit (I seriously think) on his penetration and judgment." Three days later: "For the last two days we have had gales blowing from the north-east, and seas rolling on us that drown the pier. To-day it is tremendous. Such a sea was never known here at this season, and it is running in at this moment in waves of twelve feet high. You would hardly know the place. But we shall be punctual to your dinner hour on Saturday. If the wind should hold in the same quarter, we may be obliged to come up by land; and in that case I should start the caravan at six in the morning. . , . What do you think of this for my title — American Notes for General CirculationV On lo October I heard from him that the chapter intended to be introductory to the Notes was written, and waiting our conference whether or not it should be printed. We decided against it; on his part so reluctantly, that I had to undertake for its publication when a more fitting time should come. This in my judgment has arrived, and the chapter first sees the light on this page. There is no danger at present, as there would have been when it was written, that its proper self-assertion should be mistaken for an apprehension of hostile judgments which he was anxious to deprecate or avoid. He is out of reach of all that now; and reveals to us here, as one whom fear or censure can touch no more, his honest purpose in the use of satire even where his humorous temptations were strongest. What he says will on other grounds also be read with unusual interest, for it will be found to connect itself impressively not with his first experiences only, but with his second visit to America at the close of his life. He held always the same high opinion of what was best in that country, and always the same contempt for what was worst in it. "INTRODUCTORY. AND NECESSARY TO BE READ , } ?,^^^ placed the foregoing title at the head of this page., because I challenge and deny the right of any person to pass judgment on this book, or to arrive at any reasonable conclusion in reference to The Life of Charles Dickens 447 [eplorable week of a. ... I il part in ; think of you will • the next ng home, 3 which I •oliceman veil mob, fleets the igment." 5 blowing the pier, e at this 'elve feet nctual to the same at case I t do you 'ilationV led to be inference t; on his ion when arrived, o danger that its nsion of void. He le whom le use of It. What jrest, for his first :he close ivas best as worst EAD because tnent on rence to it, without first being at the trouble of becoming acquainted with its design and purpose. "It is not statistical. Fi^jares of arithmetic have already been heaped upon America's devoted head, almost as lavishly as figures of speech have been piled above Shakespeare's grave. "It comprehends no small talk concerning individuals, and no violation of the social confidences of private life. The very prevalent practice of kidnapping live ladies and gentlemen, forcing them into cabinets, and labelling and ticketing them whether they will or no, for the gratification of the idle and the curious, is not to my taste. Therefore I have avoided it. "It has not a grain of any political ingredient in its whole com- position. "Neither does it contain, nor have I intended that it should con- tain, any lengthened and minute account of my personal reception in the United States; not because I am, or ever was, insensible to that spontaneous effusion of affection and generosity of heart, in a most affectionate and generous-hearted people; but because I con- ceive that it would ill become me to flourish matter necessarily involving so much of my own praises, in the eyes of my unhappy readers. "This book is simply what it claims to be — a record of the impres- sions I received from day to day, during my hasty travels in America, and sometimes (but not always) of the conclusions to which they, and after-reflection on them, have led me; a description of the country I passed through; of the institutions I visited; of the kind of people among whom I journeyed; and of the manners and customs that came within my observation. Very many works having just the same scope and range, have been already published, but I think that these two volumes stand iii need of no apology on that account. The interest of such productions, if they have any, lies in the varying impressions made by the same novel things on different minds; and not in new discoveries or extraordinary adventures. ' ' I can scarcely be supposed to be ignorant of the hazard I run in writing of America at all. I know perfectly well that there is, in that country, a numerous class of well-intentioned persons prone to be dissatisfied with all accounts of the Republic whose citizens they are, which are not couched in terms of exalted and extravagant praise. I know perfectly well that there is in America, as in most other places laid down in maps of the great world, a numerous class of persons so tenderly and delicately constituted, that they cannot bear the truth in any form. And I do not need the gift of prophecy to discern afar off, that they who will be aptest to detect malice, ill-will, and all uncharitableness in these pages, and to show, beyond any doubt, that they are perfectly inconsistent with that grateful and enduring recollection which I profess to entertain of the welcome I found awaiting me beyond the Atlantic — will be certain native journalists, veracious and gentlemanly, who were at great pains to prove to me. W i.' n «' I ..i^ 448 The Life of Charles Dickens I on all occasions during my stay there, that the aforesaid welcome was utterly worthless. ''But, venturing to dissent even from these high authorities, I formed my own opinion of its value in the outset, and retain it to this hour; and in asserting (as I invariably did on all public occasions) my liberty and freedom of speech while I was among the Americans, at 1 in n aintaining it at home, I believe that I best show my sense of the high worth of that welcome, and of the honourable singleness of purpose with which it was extended to me. From first to last I saw, in the friends who crowded round me in America, old readers, over- grateful and over-partial perhaps, to whom I had happily been the means of furnishing pleasure and entertainment; not a vulgar herd who would flatter and cajole a stranger into turning v 'th closed eyes from all the blemishes of the nation, and into chauncing iu praises with the discrimination of a street ballad-singer. From first to last I saw, in those hospitable hands, a home-made wreath of laurel; and not an iron muzzle disguised beneath a flower or two. "Therefore I take — and hold myself noc only justined in taking, but bound to take — the plain course of saying what I think, and noting what I saw; and as it is not my custom to exalt what m my judgment are foibles and abuses at home, so I have no intention of softening down, or glozing over, those that I have observed abroad, ' ' If ihis book should fall into the hands of any sensitive American who cannot bear to be told that the working of the institutions of his country is far from perfect; that in spite of the advantage she has over all other nations in the elastic freshness and vigour of her youth, she is far from being a model for the earth to copy; and that even in those pictures of the national manners with which he quarrels most, there is still (after the lapse of several years, each of which may be fairly supposed to have had its stride in improvement) much that is just and true at this hour; let him lay it down, now, for I shall not please him. Of the intelligent, reflecting, and educated among his countrymen, I have no fear; for I have ample reason to believe, after many delightful conversations not easily to be forgotten; that there are very few topics (if any) on which their sentiments differ materially from mine. "I may be asked — 'If you have been in any respect disappointed in America, and are assured beforehand that the expression of your disappointment will give offence to any class, why do you write at all?' My answer is, that I went there expecting greater things than I found, and resolved as far as in me lay to do justice to the country, at the expense of any (in my view) mistaken or prejudiced statements that might have been made to its disparagement. Coming home with a corrected and sobered judgment, I consider myself no less bound to do justice to what, according to my best means of judgment, I found to be the truth." Of the book for whose opening page this matter introductory was The Life of Charles Dickens 449 welcome lorities, I I it to this sioms) my cans, at 1 nse of the jlenpss of ist I saw, ers, over- been the Igar herd osed eyes U praises t to last I urel; and written it will be enough merely to add that it appeared on i8 October; that before the close of the year four large editions had been sold; and that in my opinion it thoroughly deserved the estimate formed of it by one connected with America by the strongest social affections, an., otherwise in all respects an honourable, high-minded, upright judge. "You have been very tender," wrote Lord Jeffrey, "to our sensitive friends beyond sea, and my whole heart goes along with every word you have written. I think that you have perfectly accomplished all that you profess or undertake to do, and that the world has never yet seen a more faithful, graphic, amusing, kind- hearted narrative." il n taking, link, and lat ill my ention of 1 abroad. American ntions of ;e she has er youth, ;hat even quarrels of which nt) much or I shall mong his eve, after hat there laterially ppointed 1 of your write at gs than I untry, at atements Dme with ss bound gment, I I tory was 333 I. Firs- II. " Ch III. Yeai IV. Idle V. WOR VI. Ital: VII. Last BOOK FOURTH LONDON AND GENOA 1843-5. ^T. 31-3 I. First Year of "Martin Chuzzlewit." II. " Chuzzlewit " Disappointments and "Christmas Carol." III. Year of Departure for Italy. IV. Idleness at Albaro: Villa Bagnerello. V. Work in Genoa: Palazzo Peschiere. VI. Italian Travel. Vll. Last Months in Italy. 451 'M^'^' wwtr'Tr,' — The Corni and contii week of a helped us post-horse tain or sea "Behold from Dick have no cc we travelh those Corn doned, anc house or m autumn ev name he fi tion of his surname v Sweezlewa, Chuzzlewi^ hesitation finally adc Chuzzlevvig and his wa didn't. Th( wig." All V the work I contemplat of "old Mi difficulties scheme we bent upon as might b( The first quite finish copy makes done. Than his course « FIRST YEAR OF "MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT" 1843 The Cornish trip had come off, meanwhile, with such unexpected and continued attraction for us that we were well into the third week of absence before we turned our faces homeward. Railways helped us then not much; but where the roads were inacces. ble to post-horses, we walked. Tintagel was visited, and no part of moun- tain or sea consecrated by the legends of Arthur was left unexplored. "Behold finally, the title of the new book," was the first note I had from Dickens (12 November) after our return; "don't lose it, for I have no copy." Title and even story had been undetermined while we travelled, from the lingering wish he still had to begin it among those Cornish scenes; but this intention had now been finally aban- doned, and the reader lost nothing by his substitution, for the light- house or mine in Cornwall, of the Wiltshire village forge on the windy autumn evening which opens the tale of Martin Chuzzlewit. Into that name he finally settled, but only after much deliberation, as a men- tion of his changes will show. Martin was the prefix to all, but the surname varied from its first form of Sweezleden, Sweezleback, and Sweezlewag, to those of Chuzzletoe, Chuzzleboy, Chubblewig, and Chuzzlewig; nor was Chuzzlewit chosen at last until after more hesitation and discussion. What he had sent me in his letter as finally adopted, ran thus: "The Life and Adventures of Martin Chuzzlewig, his family, friends, and enemies. Comprising all his wills and his ways. With an historical record of what he did and what he didn't. The whole forming a complete key to the house of Chuzzle- wig." All which latter portion of the title was of course dropped as the work became modified, in its progress, by changes at first not contemplated; but as early as the third number he drew up the plan of "old Martin's plot to degrade and punish Pecksniff," and the difficulties he encountered in departing from other portions of his scheme were such as to render him, in his subsequent stories, more bent upon constructive care at the outset, and on adherence as far as might be to any design he had formed. The first number, which appeared in January 1843, had not been quite finished when he wrote to me on 8 December: "The Chuzzlewit copy makes so much more than I supposed, that the number is nearly uuiiv. ii^ciiiiv \j\j.jl: i-v-Qiniiin^ su iiuxiicuiy us iit last ne aia, altering his course at the opening and seeing little as yet of the main track 453 454 The Life of Charles Dickens of his design perhaps no story was ever begun by him with stronger heart or confidence. Illness kept me to my rooms for some days and he was so eager to try the effect of Pecks.iiff and Pinch that he came down with the mk hardly dry on the last slip to roa-l the manuscript to me. Well did Sydney Smith, on writing ti say how v y much the number had pleased him. foresee the promii here was in those characters Pecksniff and his daughters, and P ,c'.. . re -..dmirabie —quite first-rate painting, such as no one but 3'our^ . m e:,ecute!' And let me here at once remark that the notion of tr.kmg Pecksniff for a type of character v,r. , .-eally the origin of ti- : „ .k; the design being to sliow. more or less by every person intrc.u.ccd. the number selfishTiess humours and vices that have their root in Eighteen hundred and forty-three opened with the most vigorous prosecution of his Chuzzlewit labour. "I hope the number will be verv good, he wrote to me of number two (8 January). "I have been hammering away, and at home all day. Ditto yesterday; except for two hours in the afternoon, when I ploughed through snow half a foot deep round about the wilds of Willesden." For the present however. I shall glance only briefly from time to time at his progress uith the earlier portions of the story on which he was thus engaged until the midsummer of 1844. Disappointments arose in connection h?^ k' ""''''P^''*^'^ ?"^ strange, which had important influence upon nJTi; 1" I reserve the mention of these for awhile, that I may speak of the leading incidents of 1843. j' f «^ "I am in a difficulty." he wrote (12 February), "and am coming down to you sometime to-day or to-night. I couldn't write a line yesterday; not a word, though I really tried hard. In a kind of despair Ln^'rlinl"! ^f^-Pf «^^^o w;th my pair of petticoats to Richmond; and dined there!! Oh what a lovely day it was in those parts." His pair of petticoats were Mrs. Dickens and her sister Georgina: the atter ^mce his return from America, having become part of his household, of which she remained a member until his death; and he had just reason to be proud of the steadiness, depth, and devotion of her friendship. In a note-book begun by him in January 1855 where for the first time in his life he jotted down hints and fancies proposed to be made available in future writings. I find a character sketched of ^.hlch the most part was applicable to his sister-in-law. if the whole TffirWi '"^S"'*f^^ by her. ••She-sacrificed to children, and !o,^ K , ^ f warded. From a child herself, always 'the children' (of somebody else) to engross her. And so it comes to pass that she is iievv^r married; never herself has a child; is always devoted •to the children (of somebody else); and they love her; and she has always youth dependent on her till her death— and dies quite happily " hJ/°°",S-^^'' ^""'T^ n'"" ^^ ^ ^°"^§^^ h^ ^e^ted in Finchley; and Sfnn'f7 ^"^ ^''^ ^^"""^ .'^ *^^ S"^^" ^^"^3 as the midsummer months were coming on. his intrnrlnction of Mro n ^-,j ^u- uses to which he should apply that remarkable peTsonagr fir"st The Life of Charles Dickens th stronger ; days, and at he came aanuscript r much the IS in those ''.diairable eir.ecute!' \ Pecksniff the design lie number r root in t vigorous ill be very tiave been except for o\v half a e present, s progress s engaged onnection ence upon lay speak n coming ite a line of despair ichmond; irts." His gina: the irt of his h; and he :votion of 55, where proposed etched of he whole ren, and Idren' (of lat she is d 'to the is always y." . . . iley; and isummer ige, first 455 occurred to him. In his preface to the book he speaks of her as a fair representation, at the time it was published, of the hired attendant on the poor in sickness, but he might have added that the rich were no bettor off, for Mrs. Gamp's original was in reality a person hired by a most distinguished friend of his own, a lady, to take charge of an invalid very dear to her; aid the common habit of this nurse in the sick-room, among other Gampish peculiarites, was to rub her nose along the top of the tall fender. Whether or not, on that first mention of her, I had any doubts whether such a character could be made a central figure in his story, I do not now remember; but if there were any at the time, they did not outlive the contents of the packet which introduced her to me in the flesh a few weeks after our return. "Tell me," he wrote from Yorkshire, where he had been meanwhile passing pleasant holiday with a friend, "what you think of Mrs. Gamp? You'll not find it easy to get through the hundreds o*' misprints in her conN'ersation, but I want your opinion at once. I think you know already something of mine. I mean to make a mark with her." » « * ♦ From October 4 to 6, he was at Manchester, presiding at the open- ing of its great Athenaeum, when Mr. Cobden and Mr. Disraeli also "assisted." Here he spoke mainly on a matter always nearest his heart, the education of the very poor. He protested against the danger of calling a little learning dangerous; declared his preference for the very least of the little over none at all; proposed to substitute for the old a new doggerel. Though house and lands be never got, Learning can give what they can not; tok his listeners of the real and paramount danger we had lately taken Longfellow to see in the nightly refuges of London, "thousands of immortal creatures condemned without alternative or choice to tread, not what our great poet calls the primrose path to the ever- lasting bonfire, but one of jagged flints and stones laid down by brutal ignorance"; and contrasted this with the unspeakable consolation and blessings that a little knowledge had shed on men of the lowest estate and most hopeless means, "watching the stars with Ferguson the shepherd's boy, walking the streets with Crabbe, a poor barber here in Lancashire with Arkwright, a tallow-chandler's son with Franklin, shoe-making with Bloomfield in his garret, following the plough with Burns, and high above the noise of loom and hammer, whispering courage in the ears of workers I could this day name in Sheffield and in Manchester." The same spirit impelled him to give eager welcome to the remark- able institution of Ragged Schools, which, begun by a shoemaker of Portsmouth and a chimney-sweep of Windsor and carried on by a peer of the realm, has had results of incalculable importance to society. The year of which I am writing was its first, as this in which I write is its last; and in the interval, out of three hundred thousand children to whom it has given some sort of education, it is computed if 456 The Life of Charles Dickens ^^1 also to have given to a tliird of that number the means of honest employment. "I sent Miss Coutts." he had written (24 September) a sledge-hammer account of the Ragged Schools; and as I saw her name for two hundred pounds in the clergy education subscription list, took pams to show her that religious mysteries and difficult creeds wouldn't do for such pupils. I told her, too, that it was of mimense importance they should be washed. She writes back to know what the rent of some large airy premises would be. and what the expense of erecting a regular bathing or purifying place; touchin- which points I am in correspondence with the authorities. I have nS doubt she will do whatever I ask her in the matter. She is a most excellent creature. I pr )test to God. and I have a most perfect affection and respect for her." ... Active as he had been in the now ending year, and great as were its varieties of employment; his genius in its highest mood, his energv unwearied in good work, and his capacity for enjoyment without limit; xie was able to sirnalise its closing months by an achievement supremely fortunate, which but for disappointments the year had also brought might never have been thought of. He had not bec^un until a week after his return from Manchester, where the fancy first occurred to him, and before ^he end of November he had finished his memorable Christmas Carol. It was the work of such odd moments of leisure as were left^him out of the time taken up by two numbers of his Chuzzlewtt] and though begun with but the special design of add- ing something to the Chuzzlewit balance, I can testify to the accuraov of his own account of what befell him in its composition with wh-t a strange mastery it seized him for itself, how he wept 'over it and laughed, and wept again, and excited himself to an extraordinary degree, and how he walked thinking of it fifteen and twenty m^les about the black streets of London, many and many a night after all sober folks had gone to bed. Ard when it was done, as he told oar American friend Mr. Felton, he let hims.:f loose like a madman Forster is out again," he added, by way of illustrating our practical comments on his book-celebration of the jovidi old season "and if he don't go in again after the manner in which we have been keeping Christmas, he must be very string indeed. Such dinings such dancings, such conjurings, such blind-man's buffings, i^uch theatre- goings, such kissings-out of old years and kissings-in of new ones never took place in these parts before." Yet had it been to him, this closing year, a time also of much anxiety and strange disappointments of which I am now to speak • and before, with that view, we go back for a while to its earlier months, one step into the new year may be taken for what marked It with interest and importance to him. Eighteen hundred and forty- four was but fifteen days old when a third son (his fifth child which received the name of its godfather Francis Jeffrey) was born- and here is an answer sent by him. two days later, to an invitation 'from Machse. Stanfield, and myself to dine with us at Richmond: "Devon- The Life of Charles Dickens 457 SHIRE Lodge, Seventeenth of January, 1844, Fellow Countrymen! The appeal with which you have honoured me, awakens within my breast emotions that are more easily to be imagined than described. Heaven bless you. I shall indeed be proud, my friends, to respond to such a requisition. I had withdrawn from Public Life — I fondly thought for ever — to pass the evening of my days in hydropathical pursuits, and the contemplation of virtue. For which latter purpose, I had bought a looking-glass. — But, my friends, private feeling must ever yield to a stern sense of public duty. The Man is lost in the Invited Guc^t. and I comply. Nurses, wet and dry; apothecaries; mothers-in-law; babies; with all the sweet (and chasle) delights oif private life; these, my countrymen, are hard to leave. But you have called me forth, and I will come. Fellow countrymen, your friehd and faithful servant, Charles Dickens." II CHUZZLEWIT DISAPPOINTMENTS AND "CHRISTMAS CAROL" 1843-4 "Chuzzlewit" had fallen short of all the expectations formed of it in regard to sale. By much the most masterly of his writings hitherto, the public had rallied to it in far less numbers than to any of its pre- decessors. The primary cause of this, there is little doubt, had been the ciiange to weekly issues in the form of publication of his last two stories; for into eveiything in this world mere habit enters more largely than we are apt to suppose. Nor had the temporary with- drawal to America been favourable to an immediate resumption by his readers of their old and intimate relations. This also is to be added, that the excitement by which a popular reputation is kept up to the highest selling mark will always be subject to lulls too capricious for explanation. But whatever the causes, here was the undeniable fact of a gra\ e depr< ciation of sale in his writings, unaccompanied by any falling off either in themselves or in the writer's reputation. It was very temporary; but it was present, and to be dealt with accordingly. The forty and fifty thousand purchasers of Pickwick and Nicklehy, the sixty and seventy thousand of the early numbers of the enterprise in which the Old Curiosity Shop and Barnahy Rudge appeared, had fallen to little over twenty thousand. They rose somewhat on Martin's ominous announcement, at the end of the fourth number, that he'd go to America; but though it was believed that this resolve, which Dickens adopted as suddenly as his hero, might increase the number of his readers, that reason influenced him less than the challenge to make good his Notes which every m 1 1 1-- ilUU him irom 333' 458 The Life of Charles Dickens J ^Wi unsparing assailants beyond the Atlantic. The substantial effect of the American episode upon the sale was yet by no means great A couple of thousand additional purchasers were added, but the high est number at any time reached before the story closed was twenty- three thousand. Its sale, since, has ranked next after Pickwick and Lopperfleld. We were now. however, to have a truth brought home to us which few that have had real or varied experience in such matters can have failed to be impressed by— that publishers are bitter bad judges of an autnor, and are seldom safe persons to consult in regard to the fate or fortunes that may probably await him. Describing the agreement for this book m September 1841. I ^poke of a provision against the im- probable event of its profits proving inadequate to certain necessar\' repayments. In this unlikely case, wb .h was to be ascertained by the proceeds of the first five numbers, the publishers were to have power to appropriate fifty pounds a month out of the two hundred pounds payable for authorship in, the expenses of each number; b it though this had been introduced with my knowledge. I knew also too much of the antecedent relations of the parties to regard it as other than a mere form to satisfy the attorneys in the case. The fifth number which landed Martin and Mark in America, and the sixth, whi^h des- cribed their first experiences, were published; and on* the eve of the seventh, in which Mrs. Gamp was to make her first appearance I X. sard with infinite pain that from Mr. Hall, the younger partner' of the firm which had enriched itself by Pickwick and Nickleby and a very kind well-disposed man. there had dropped an inconsiderate hint to the writer of those books that it might be desirable to put the clause m force. It had escaped him without his thinking of all that it involved; certainly the senior partner, whatever amount of as thoughtless sanction he had at the moment given to it. always much regretted it. and made endeavours to exhibit his regret; but the mis- chief was done, and for the time was irreparable. "I am so irritated," Dickens wrote to me on 28 June "so rubbed in the tenderest part of my eyelids with bay-salt, by what I told you yesterday, that a wrong kind of fire is burning in my iiead and I don't think I can write. Nevertheltess, I am trying In case I'should succeed, and should not come down to you this r.\orning, shall you be at the club or elsewhere after dinner^ I am t at or. paying the money. And before going into the matter ;/ith anyh-. dy ^ should hke you to propound from me the one prelirninar - question to Bradbury and Evans. It is more than a year and a ^aii since Clowes wrote to urge me to give him a hearing, in case I shoi;,d r .-er think of altering my plans. A printer is better than a bcokselLrr,. and :t is quite as much the interest of one (if not more) to join me. But whoever it is, or whatever, I am bent upon paying Chapman ^ud Kail down. And when I have done that. Mr. Hall shall have a piecv o* my mind " What he meant by the proposed repayment will be understood by what formerly was said of his arrangements with those 'zenUemen on The Life of Charles Dickens 459 the repurchase of his early copyrights. Feehng no surprise at this announcement, 1 yet prevailed with him to suspend proceedings until his return from Broadstairs in October; and what then I had to say led to memorable resolves. Tue communication he had desired me to make to his printers had taken them too much by surprise to enable them to form a clear judgment respecting it; and they replied by suggestions which vv^ere in effect a confession of that want of confi- dence in themselves. They enlarged upon the great results that would follow a re-issue of his writings in a cheap form; they strongly urged such an underta.king; and they offered to invesv to any desired amount in the establishment of a magazine or other periodical to be edited by him. The possible dangers, in short, incident to their assumiig the position of publishers as well as printers of new works from his pen, seemed at first to be so much greater than on closer examiijiation they were found to be, that at the outset the> shrank from encountering them. And hence the remarkable lett- r 1 shall nov.- quote (i Novo i- ber, 1843). "Don't be startled by the novelty and extent (-^ iiiy project. Beth startled me at first; but I am well assured of its wisdom and necessity. I am afraid of a magazine — juL,t now. I don't think the time a good one, or the chances favourable. I am afraid of putting myself before the town as writing tooth and nail for bread, headlong, after the close of a book taking so much out of one as Chuzzlewit. I am afraid I could not do it, with justice to myself. I know that whatever we may say at first, a new magazine, or a new anything, would require so much propping, that I should he forced (as in the Clock) to put myself into it, in my old shape. I am afraid of Bradburj'- and Evans's desire to force on the cheap issue of my books, or any of them, prematurely. I am sure if it tock place yet awhile, it would damage me and damage the property, enormously. It is very natural in them to want it; but, since they do v.-ant it, I have r^o faith in their regarding me in any other respect than they would regard any other man in a speculation. I see that this is really yorn- opinion as well; and I don't see what I gain, in such z. case, by leaving Chapman and Hall. If I had made money, I should unquestionably fade away from the public eye for a year, and enlarge my stocic of description ana observation by seeing countries new to me; wni ■» it is most necessary to me that I should see, and v/hirb with -'p '-^ creasing family I cux scarcely hope to see at all, unless I pee then> :kjvv. Already for some time I have had this hope and intention before me; and, though not having yet made money, I find or fancy that I can put myself in the position to accomplish it. And this is the course I have before me. At the close of Chuzzlewit (b/ which time tLe debt will have been materially reduced) I purpose drawing from Chapman and Hall my share of the subscription — bills, or money, will do equally well. I design to tell them that it is not likely I shall do anv-«-.i-ing for a year; that, in the meantime, I make no arrangem.ent .atever with anyone; and our business matters rest in stuiu QUO. . le same to Bradburv and Evans. I shall let the house if I 460 The Life of Charles Dickens I can; if not, leave it to be let. I shall take all the family, and two rj^f ",'''' at most-tosome placewhich I know beforehand to be CHEAP and in a delightful climate, in Normandy or Brittany to which I shall go over, first, and where I shall rent some hou^^e fo-^ sS or eight months. During that time, I shall walk through Switzerland cross the Alps, travel through France and Italy; take Kate perhaps to Rome and Venice, but not elsewhere; and in short see everything that 'l*° ^^ '^T'r/!'''^! '^"*^ ""^y descriptions to you from time to time exactly as I did m America; and you will be able to judge whether or not a new and attractive book may not be made on such ground \t the same time 1 shall be able to turn over the story I have in my mind and which I have a strong notion might be published with great advantage, firs in Pari,-hv.t that's another matter to be talked over th'^ frlf.';'''"^.H """^f "f.l^* l'*^^"^' ^^*^^^' ^^^^^t^^^r ^"y book about the travel, or this, should be the first. 'All very well,' you say 'if vou had money enough.' Well, but if I can see my way io what would be necessary without binding myself in any form to anything- without paying interest or giving any security but one of my Eagle five thousand pounds; you would give up that objection. And I stand committed to no bookseller, printer, moneylender, banker, or patron whatever; and decidedly strengthen my position with my readers instead of weakening it drop by drop, as 1 otherwise must^Is it noi vnn h". '" the way before me, plainly this? I infer that in reality you do yourself think that what I first thought of is not the way? 1 nnrrf.= ^°" "T^ '^^^""^ "^^"^ ^^^^^^ ^^ ^ ^^^^ ^ ^^^^^d. I See its great points, agamst mr prepossessions the other way_as. leaving England, home, fr ■ everything I am fond of-but it seeilis t^ me^ mv Tf.i r I' f -^^ '^* "'^ "§^^*- ^ blessing on Mr. Mariott my Italian master. ^ , h,s pupil! . . . If you have any breath left tell Topping how you are" y ^^^v icit. I had certainly not much after reading this letter, written amid all htnd hf °f -^^ ^S •^°'^' ^^'^'^ ^^^^ *^^ ^«^^^ ^"d Chuz^le^ultZ hand, but such msufficient breath as was left to me I spent against the project, and in favour of far more consideration than he had given to It before anything should be settled. "I expected you." he wrote next cay (2 November), 'to be startled. If I was startled myself when I hrst got this project of foreign travel into my head mXhs AGO, how much more must you be. on whom it comes fresh- number- ing only hours! Still, I am very resolute upon it-very. I am con- vinced that my expenses abroad would not be more than half of mv Y^TCl ''"'"'' ^^^^/"«f "-- «f ^^hange and nature ^ po. rie. enormous"^ You know as well as I. tnat I think Chuzzlewit in a :.undred points immeasurably the best of my stories. That I feel my po r^now Te'eVh^d Th.T ft ^^%' ] 'r'' I ^^^"^^^ ^°"fi^-^^ - -y-^f tha'n fh7 .^,nH ? i^ ^'"'"'' '^ ^ ^'^""^ ^^^^*b. I could sustain my place in Sorrow Rnf 1'^'"^"'^^ "^'^ *^°"^^ ^^'^ ^^"^^^^ started up to- morrow. But how many readers do not think! Kow many take it upon trust from knaves and idiots, that one writes too fast, or runs a The Life of Charles Dickens 461 thing to death! How coldly did this very book go on for months, until it forced itself up in people's opinion, without forcing itself up in sale! If I wrote for forty thousand Forsters, or for forty thousand people who know I write because I can't help it, I should have no need to leave the scene. But this very book warns me that if I can leave it for a time, I had better do so, and must do so. Apart from that again, I feel that longer rest after this story would do me good. You say two or three months, because you have been used to see me for eight years never leaving off. But it is not rest enough. It is impossible to go on working the brain to that extent for ever. The very spirit of the thing, in doing it, leaves a horrible despondency behind, when it is done; which must be prejudicial to the mind, so soon renewed and so seldom let aione. What would poor Scott have given to have gone abroad, of his own free will, a young man, instead of creeping there, a driveller, in his miserable decay' I said myself in my note to you — anticipating what you puc to me — that it was a question what I should come out with, first. The travel-book, if to be done at all, would cost me very little trouble; and surely would go very far to pay charges, whenever published. We have spoken of the baby, and of leaving it here with Catherine's mother. Moving the children into France could not, in any ordinary course of things, do them any- thing but good. And the question is, what it would do to that by which they live: not what it would do to them. ... I had forgotten that point in the B. and E. negotiation; but they certainly suggested instant publication of the reprints, or at all events of some of them; by which of course I know, and as you point out, I could provide of myself what is wanted. I take this as putting the thing distinctly as a matter of trade, and feeling it so. And, as a matter of trade with them or anybody else, as a matter of trade between me and the public, should I not be better off a year hence, with the reputation of having seen so much in the meantime? The reason which induces you to look upon this scheme with dislike — separation for so long a time— surely has equal weight with me. I see very little pleasure in it, beyond the natural desire to have been in those great scenes; I anticipate no en- joyment at the time. I have come to look upon it as a matter of policy and duty. I have a thousand other reasons, but shall very soon myself be with you." There were difficulties, still to be strongly urged, against taking any present step to a final resolve; and he gave way a little. But the pressure was soon renewed. "I have been," he wrote (10 November), "all day in Chuzzlewit agonies — conceiving only. I hope to bring forth to-morrow. Will you come here at six? I want to say a word or two about the cover of the Carol and the advertising, and to consult you on a nice point in the tale. It will come wonderfully 1 think. Mac will call here soon after, and we can then o\l three go to Bulwer's together. And do, my dear fellow, do for God's sake turn over about Chapman and Hall, and look upon my project as a a settled thing. If you object to Sec lliClil, i mU"3t WlitV WV/ v.l,JiiX. J.iAJf l.^^^u%>v^aIli\/^/ Vv ^"j ^'*'"'"> ~ ^ i 462 The Life of Charles Dickens ifl II 'i fi A Change in his publishing arrangements was connected with the little story which, amid all his troubles and "Chu,,lawit agonies "he was steadily carrying to its close; and which remains a splend' ci prooTof the consciousness of power felt by him. and of his confidence^that U icLT^' M^", ^?^*^' *^^" ^"^^" ^'^ '^^^^'^ ^e^e thus falling oft acTu lunger nf '"''",t^ '^' 9'"''' '''' Publication on his own account, under the usual terms of commission, to the firm he had been so long associated with; and at such a moment to t^ll them short of absolute necessity, his intention to quit them ahogetheri ^Zf^\f-'^^''' P""^"^ ^" P^"^ °^ '^' ^^tt»^ book's chances He ii^t'tCKiTer'' '"' ''^ ^^^"^' ^^ -''' ^^ ^-"^' -- ^- ^- Let disappointments, or annoyances, however, beset him as thev might, once heartily in his work and all was forgotten His temDera ment of course coloured everything, cheerful or sad. an? his Sn tha^htllh' ^'''"?'^ ^^ '"^^S'""^y ^^^^^^ b"* '' ^-^ very certaS that his labours and successes thus far had enriched others niore than himself, and while he knew that his mode of living had been sJruDur riVht . ^^. ^ T.^ inadequate made a change necessary to so up- right a nature. It was the turning-point of his career- and the issue though not immediately, ultimately justified him. M^ch of his present restlessness I was too ready myself to ascribe to that love of change which was a ways arising from his passionate desire to vary and extend his observation; but even as to this the result showed him rfght^n Xf '"f ^^^W'^^^^^ obtain intellectual advantage fro^^ the effects of such further travel. Here indeed he spoke from experience for already he had returned from America with wide? vbwsthln cuities on which he dwelt were also, it is now to be admiffpri „n questionable. Beyond his own domestic expenL LcesLr'^inc^^^^^^ a^vTurrTers^'no^^^^^^ and im?uTt fnH T T"" ^ '^^^ ^^^^^^b^^ because unreasonable WtternP.. :> f^ H "^^l n^'^' ^^^^^^^bing to me one such with great bitterness, a few days followmg the letter last quoted that he thit^ m^fuZt- 'f """^ ^ay(xg November) to V commit I had made upon it. I was most horribly put out for a little while- for I to I^'^^Tk ^'^-^ '^ ^°i° ^°^^^' ^"^ ^^^ ^"11 of interest in what I had to do. But having eased my mind by that note to you and taken a nTreTt rtK'blaTd '"' ^^-'Z V ^^ '' ^^''^' ^-d -on^^^^^^^^^^ interested that 1 blazed away till 9 last nitrht- onlv sfonnin^ f^r, mr yesterday, fhe consequence is that I could finish to-dav but am taking It ea.y. and making myself laugh very much^^' The^'e^ nex^ day. unhappily, there came to himself I repetition of precSelv^milar trouble m exaggerated form, and to me a fresh reminder of wha^was then f Lv Taf TT ''"'' "^^'"^- "' ^" ^^^^ serfoul^nd sobS When 1 say. that x have very grave thoughts of keeping my whole The Life of Charles Dickens 463 menagerie in Italy three years." . . . In construction and conduct of story Martin Chuzzlewit is defec- tive, character and description constituting the chief part of its strength. But what it lost as a story by the American episode it gained in the other direction; young Martin, by happy use of a bitter experience, casting off his slough of selfishness in the poisonous swamp of Eden. Dickens often confessed, however, the difficulty it had been to him to have to deal with this gap in the main course of his narrative. . . . Thackeray used to say that there was nothing finer in rascaldom than this ruin of Pecksniff by his son-in-law at the very moment when the oily hypocrite believes himself to be achieving his masterpiece of dissembling over the more vulgar avowed ruffian. " 'Jonas!' cried Mr. Pecksniff much affected, ' I am not a diplomatical character; my heart is in my hand. By far the greater part of the inconsiderable savings I have accumulated in the course of — I hope — a not dis- honourable or useless career, is already given, devised, or bequeathed (correct me, my dear Jonas, if I am technically wrong), with ex- pressions of confidence which I will not repeat; and in securities which it is unnecessary to mention; to a person whom I cannot, whom I will not, whom I need not name.' Here he gave the hand of his son-in-law a fervent squeeze, as ii he would have added, 'God bless you: be very careful of it when you get if " Certainly Dickens thus far had done nothing of which, as in this novel, the details were filled in with such incomparable skill; where the wealth of comic circumstance was lavished in such overflowing abundance on single types of character; -^r where generally, as throughout the story, the intensity of his observation of individual humours and vices had taken so many varieties of imaginative form. Everything in Chuzzlewit indeed had grown under treatment, as will be commonly the case in the handling of a man of genius, who never knows where any given conception may lead him, out of the wealth of resource in development and incident which it has itself created. "As to the way," he wrote to me of its two most prominent figures, as soon as all their capabilities were revealed to him, "as to the way in in which these characters have opened out, this is to me one of the most surprising processes of the mind in this sort of invention. Given what one knows, what one does not know springs up; and I am as absolutely certain of its being true, as I am of the law of gravitation — if such a thing be possible, more so." The remark displays exactly what in all his important characters was the very process of creation with him. . . . m i But this is a chapter of disappointments, and I have now to state, that as Martin Chuzzlewit' s success was to seem to him at first only distant and problematical, so even the prodigious immediate success of the Christmas Carol itself was not to be an unmitigated pleasure. Never had little book an outset so full of brilliancy of promise. I 464 The Life of Charles Dickens ,i;- Published but a few days before Christmas, it was hailed on every side with enthusiastic greeting. The first edition of six thousand copies was sold the first day. and on 3 January. 1844, he wrote to me that two thousand of the three printed for second and third editions are already taken by the trade." But a very few weeks were to pass before the darker side of the picture came. "Such a night as I have passed! he wrote to le on Saturday morning. 10 February "I really believed I should never get up again, until I had passed through all the horrors of a fever. I found the Carol accounts awaiting me and they were the cause of it. The first six thousand copies show a profit of ;^23o! And the last four will yield as much more. I had set mv heart and soul upon a Thousand, clear. What a wonderful thing it is that such a great success should occasion me such intolerable anxiety and disappointment! My year's bills, unpaid, are so terrific that all the energy and determination I can possibly exert will be required to c ear me before I go abroad; which, if next June come and find me alive. I shall do. Good Heaven, if I had only taken heart a year a^^o! Do come soon, as I am very anxious to talk with you. We can send round to Mac after you arrive, and tell him to join us at Hampstead or elsewhere. I was so utterly knocked down last night, that I came up to the contemplation of all these things quite bold this morning If I can let the house for this season, I will be off to some seaside place as soon as a tenant offers. I am not afraid, if I reduce my expenses- but If I do not. I shall be ruined past all mortal hope of redemption ' The ultimate result was that his publishers were changed and the immediate result that his departure for Italy became a settled thing- but a word may be said on these Carol accounts before mention is made of his new publishing arrangements. W^ant of judgment had been shown m not adjusting the expenses of production with a more equable regard to the selling price, but even as it was, before the close of the year, he had received ;^726 from a sale of fifteen thousand copies; and the difference between this and the amount realised by the same proportion of the sale of the successor to the Carol un- doubcedly justified him in the discontent now expressed Of 'that second sale, as well as of the third and fourth, more than double the numbers of the Carol were at ouqc sold, and of course there was no complaint of any want of success; but the truth really was. as to all the Christmas stories issued in this form, that the price charged while too large for the public addressed by them, was too little to remunerate their outlay; and when in later years he put forth similar fancies for Christmas, charging for them fewer pence than . iO shillings required for these, he counted his purchasers with fairly corrr spond- mg gams to himself, not by tens but by hundreds of thousands The sale of one of those pieces, five years before his death, went up in its first week to 250,000. ^ It %yas necessary now that negotiations should be resumed with his printers, but before any step was taken Mess.s. Chapman and Hall were informed of his intention not to open fresh publishing The Life of Charles Dickens 465 on every thousand ote to me d editions re to pass as I have ruary. "I 1 through ? me, and V a profit d set my liing it is, e anxiety , that all quired to I find me /•ear ago! can send mpstead t I came >rning. If ; place as nses; but ion. and the ;d thing; ^ntion is lent had 1 a more :he close housand lised by irol, un- Of that uble the was no as to all charged, little to I similar 'hillings espond- ds. The ip m its 3d with lan and blishing relations with them after Chuzzlewit should have closed. Then fol- lowed deliberations and discussions, many and grave, which settled themselves at last into the form of an agreement with Messrs. Brad- bury and Evans executed on i June 1844; by which upon advance made to him of ;^2,8oo he assigned to them a fourth share in whatever he might write during the next ensuing eight years, to which the agreement was to be strictly limited. There were the usual protecting clauses, but no interest was to be paid, and no obligations were im- posed as to what works should be written, if any, or the form of them; the only farther stipulation having reference to the event of a period- ical being undertaken whereof Dickens might be only partially editor or author, in which case his proprietorship of copyright and profits was to be two-thirds inste?.d of three-fourths. There was an understanding, at the time this agreement was signed, that a suc- cessor to the Carol would be ready for the Christmas of 1844; but no other promise was asked or made in regard to any other book, nor had he himself decided what form to give to his experiences of Italy, if he should even finally determine to publish them at all. Between this agreement and his journey six weeks elapsed, and there were one or two characteristic incidents before his departure: but mention must first be interposed of the success quite without alloy that also attended the little book, and carried off in excitement and delight every trace of doubt or misgiving. "Blessing on your kind heart," wrote Jeffrey to the author of the Carol. "You should be happy yourself, for you may be sure you have done more good by this little publication, fostered more kindly feelings, and prompted more positive acts of beneficence, than can be traced to all the pulpits and confes- sionals in Christendom since Christmas 1842." "Who can listen," exclaimed Thackeray, "to objections regarding such a book as this? It seems to me a national benefit, and to every man or woman who reads it a personal kindness." Such praise expressed what men of genius felt and said: but the small volume had other tributes, less usual and not less genuine. There poured upon its author daily, all through that Christmas time, letters from complete strangers to him which I remember reading with a wonder of pleasure; not literary at all, but of the simplest domestic kind, of which the general burden was to tell him, amid many confidences, about their homes, how the Carol had come to be read aloud there, and was to be kept upon a little shelf by itself, and was to do them no end of good. Anything more to be said of it will not add much to this. . . . 1) 466 The Life of Charles Dickens III YEAR OF DEPARTURE FOR ITALY 1844 ... In the previous February, on the 26th and 28th respectively he had taken the chair at two great meetings, in Liverpool of the Mechanics' Institution, and in Birmingham of the Polytechnic Institu- tion, to which reference is made by him in a letter of the 21st. I quote the allusion because it shows thus early the sensitive regard to his position as a man of letters, and his scrupulous consideration for the feelings as well as interest of the class, which he manifested in many various and often greatly self-sacrificing ways all through his life Advise me on the following point. And as I must write to-night having already lost a post, advise me by bearer. Thi Liverpool Institution, which is wealthy and has a high grammar school the masters of which receive in salaries upwards of I2000 a \ ear (indeed Its extent horrifies me; I am struggling through its papers this morn- ing), writes me yesterday by its secretary a business letter about the order of the proceedings on Monday; and it begins thus. "I beg to send you prefixed, with the best respects of our committee a bank order for twenty pounds in payment of the expenses contingent on -our visit to Liverpool.'— And there, sure enough, it is. Now mv .ipulse was, and ts decidedly to return it. Jwenty p< unds is not of moment to me; and any sacrifice of independence is worth it twenty times twenty times told. But haggling in my mind is doubt whether that would be proper, and not boastful (in an inexplicable way)- and whether as an author, I have a right to put myself on a basis which the professors of literature in other forms connected with the Institution cannot afford to occupy. Don't you see? But of course you do The case stands thus. The Manchester Institution, being in debt appeals to me as it were in formd pauperis, and makes no such pro'vision as I have named. The Birmingham Institution, just struggling into life with great difficulty, applies to me on the same grounds. But the Leeds people (thriving) write to me, making the expenses a distinct matter of business; and the Liverpool, as a point of delicacy say nothing about it to the last minute, and then send the money Now what in the name of goodness ought I to do?— I am as much puzzled with the cheque as Colonel Jack was with his gold. If it w^ould have settled the matter to put it on the fire yesterday, I should certainly have done it. Your opinion is requested. I think I shall have grounds for a very good speech at Brummagem; but I am not sure about Liverpool; having misgivings of over-gentility." My opinion was clearly for sending the money back, which accordingly was done The Life of Charles Dickens 467 Both speeches, duly delivered to enthusiastic hsteners at the places named, were good, and both, with suitable variations, had the same theme: telling his popular audience in Birmingham that the principle of their institute, education comprehensive and unseclarian, was the only safe one, for that without danger no society could go on punish- ing men for preferrinf< vice to virtue without giving them the means of knowing what virtue was; and reminding his genteeler audience in Liverpool, that if happily they had been themselves well taught, so much the more should they seek to extend the benefit to all, since, whatever the precedence due to rank, wealth, or intellect, there was yet a nobility beyond them, expressed unaffectedly by the poet's verse aid in the power of education to confer. Howe'er it be, it seems to me, 'Tis only noble to be good: True hearts are more than coronets. And simple faith than Norman blood. He underwent some suffering, which he might have spared himself, at his return. "I saw the Carol last night," he wrote to me of a dram- atic performance of the little story at the Adelphi. "Better than usual, and Wright seems to enjoy Bob Cratchit, but heart-breaking to me. Oh Heaven! if any forecast of this was ever in my mind! Yet O. Smith was drearily better than I expected. It is a great comfort to have that kind of meat underdone; and his face i (|uite perfect." Of what he suffered from these adaptations of his books, multiplied remorselessly at every theatre, I have forborne to speak, but it was the subject of complaint with him incessantly; and more or less satisfied as he was with individual performances, such as Mr. Yates's Quilp or Mantalini and Mrs. Keeley's Smike or Dot, there was only one, that of Barnaby Rudge by the Miss Fortescue who became afterwards Lady Gardner, on which I ever heard him dwell with a thorough liking. It is true that to the dramatisations of his next and other following Christmas stories he gave help himself; but, even then, all such efforts to assist special representations were mere attempts to render more tolerable what he had no power to prevent, and, with a few rare exceptions, they were never very successful. Anotb- and graver wrong was the piracy of his writings, every one of wl.ich had been reproduced with merely such colourable changes of title, incidents, and name of characters, as were believed to be sufficient to evade the law and adapt them to "penny" purchasers. So shamelessly had this been going on every since the days of Pickwick, in so many outrageous ways and with all but impunity, that a course repeatedly urged by Talfourd and myself was at last taken in the present year with the Christmas Carol and the Chuzzlewit pirates. Upon a case of such pe- culiar fiagrancy, however, that the vice-chancellor would not even hear Dickens's counsel; and what it cost our dear friend Talfourd to sup- press his speech exceeded by very much the labour and pains with which he had prepared it. "The pirates," wrote Dickens to me. after I ■ <b^ ■.'^. ^. ^v. ^ -"- IMAG? EVALUATION TEST TARGET {MT-3) // A k "'m / A 1.0 I.I l^|Z8 lU lit 1^ 25 2.2 |2£ 1.8 1.25 1.4 J4 ^ 6" — ► e. ''^\% i G^/M Photographic Sciences Corporation -% #> V <> "^ m % C\^' \ o^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4303 468 The Life of Charles Dickens leaving the court on i8 January, "are beaten flat. They are bruised, bloody, battered, smashed, squelched, and utterly undone. Knight Bruce would not hear Talfourd, but instantly gave judgement. He had interrupted Anderton constantly by asking him to produce a passage which was not an expanded or contracted idea from my book. And at every successive passage he cried out, 'That is Mr. Dickens's case. Fmd another!' He said that there was not a shadow of doubt upon the matter. That there was no authority which would bear a construction in their favour; the piracy going beyond all previous instances. They might mention it again in a week, he said, if they liked, and mighthave an issue if theypleased; but they would probably consider it unnecessary after that strong expression of his opinion. Of course I will stand by what v.e have agreed as to the only terms of compromise with the printers. I am determined that I will have an apology for their affidavits. The other men may pay their costs and get out of it, but I will stick to my friend the author." Two days later he wrote: "The further affidavits put in by way of extenuation by the printing rascals are rather strong, and give one a pretty correct idea of what the men must be who hold on by the heels of literature. Oh' the agony of Talfourd at Knight Bruce's not hearing him! He had sat up till three in the morning, he says, preparing his speech; and would have done all kinds of things with the affidavits. It certainly was a splendid subject. We have heard nothing from the vagabonds yet, I once thought of printing the affidavits without a word of comment, and sewing them up wath Chuzzlewit. Talfourd is strongly disinclined to compromise with the printers on any terms. In which case it would be referred to the master to ascertain what profits had been made by the piracy, and to order the same to be paid to me. But wear and tear of law is my consideration." The undertaking to which he had at last to submit was, that upon ample public apology and payment of all costs, the offenders should be let go: but the real result was that, after infinite vexation and trouble, he had himself to pay all the costs incurred on his own behalf; and, a couple of years later, upon repetition of the wrong he had suffered in so gross a form that proceedings were again advised by Talfourd and others, he wrote to me from Switzerland the condition of mind to which his experience had brought him. "My feeling about the is the feeling common. I suppose, to three-fourths of the reflecting part of the community in our happiest of all possible countries; and that is. that it is better to suffer a great wrong than to have recourse to the much greater wrong of the law. I shall not easily forget the expense, and anxiety, and horrible injustice of the Cayol case, wherein, in asserting the plainest right on earth. I was really treated as if I were the robb. r instead of therobbed. Uponthe whole. IcertainlywouldmuchratherNOTproceed. What do you think of sending ii . a grave protest against what has been done in thijcase. on account of the immense amount of piracy to which I am daily exposed, and because I have been already met in the Court of Chancery with the legal doctrine that silence under such wrongs a corner c The Life of Charles Dickens 469 barred my remedy: to which Talfourd's written opinion might be appended as proof that we stopped under no discouragement, It is useless to affect that I don't know I. have a morbid susceptibility of exasperation, to which the meanness and badness of the law in such a matter would be stinging in the last degree. And I know of nothing that could come, even of a successful action, which would be worth the mental trouble and disturbance it would cost." . . . The reader may be amused if I add what he said of the pirates in those earlier days when grave matters touched him less gravely. On the eve of the first number of Nicklehy he had issued a proclama- tion. "Whereas we are the only true and lawful Boz. And whereas it hath been reported to us, who are commencing a new work, that some dishonest dullards resident in the by-streets and cellars of this town impose upon the unwary and credulous, by producing cheap and wretched imitations of our delectable works. And whereas we derive but small comfort under this injury from the knowledge that the dishonest dullards aforesaid cannot, by reason of their mental smallness, follow near our heels, but are constrained to creep along by dirty and little-frequented ways, at a most respectful and humble distance behind. And whereas, in like manner, as some other vermin are not worth the killing for the sake of their carcases, so these kennel pirates are not worth the powder and shot of the law, inasmuch as whatever damages they may commit they are in no condition to pay any. This is to give notice, that we have at length devised a mode of execution for them, so summary and terrible, that if any gang or gangs thereof presume to hoist but one shred of the colours of the good ship Nickleby,\ve will han^ them on gibbets so loity and endur- ing that their remains shall be a monument of our just vengeance to all succeeding ages; and it shall not lie in the power of any lord high admiral, on earth, to cause them to be taken down again." The last paragraph of the proclamation informed the potentates of Pater- noster Row, that from the then ensuing day of the thirtieth of March, until further notice, "we shall hold our Levees, as heretofore, on the last evening but one of every month, between the hours of seven and nine, at our Board of Trade, number one hundred and e hty-six in the Strand, London; where we again request the attendance (in vast crowds) of their accredited agents and ambassadors. Gentlemen to wear knots upon their shoulders; and patent cabs to draw up with their doors towards the grand entrance, for the convenience of load- ing." The preparation for departure [for Italy] was now actively going forward, and especially his inquiries for two important adjuncts thereto, a courier and a carriage. As to the latter it occurred to him that he might perhaps get for little money "some good old shabby devil of a coach — one of those vast phantoms that hide themselves in a corner of the Pantechnicon" and exactly such a one he found there; sitting himself inside it, a perfect Sentimental Traveller, while the managing man told him its history. "As for comfort — let me see — it f:, 470 The Life of Charles Dickens IS about the size of your library; with night-lamps and day-lamps and pockets and imperials and leathern cellars, and the most extraordin- ary contrivances. Joking apart, it is a wonderful machine. And when you see it (if you do see it) you will roar at first, and will then pro- claim It to be perfectly brilliant, my dear fellow.' " It was marked sixty pounds; he got it for five-and-forty; and my own emotions respecting it he had described by anticipation quite correctly In hndmg a courier he was even more fortunate; and these successes were followed by a third apparently very promising but in the result less satisfactory. His house was let to not very careful people. The tenant having offered herself for Devonshire Terrace unexpect- edly, during the last week or two of his stay in England he went into temporary quarters in Osnaburgh Terrace: and here a domestic difficulty befell of which the mention maybe amusing, when I have dis- posed of am ncident that preceded it too characteristic for omission Ihe Mendicity Society's officers had caught a notorious begging-letter writer, had identified him as an old offender against Dickens of which proofs were found on his person, and had put matters in train for his proper punishment; when the wretched creature's wife made such appeal before the case was heard at the police-court, that Dickens broke down in his character of prosecutor, and at the last moment finding what was said of the man's distress at the time to be true' relented. "When the Mendicity officers themselves told me the man was in distress, I desi. ed them to suppress what they knew about him and Slipped out of the bundle (in the police-office) his first letter which was the greatest lie of all. For he looked wretched, and his wife had been waiting about the street to see me. all the morning. It was an exceedingly bad case, however, and the imposition, all through very great indeed. Insomuch that I could not say anything in his favour even when I saw him. Yet I was not sorry that the creature found the loophole for escape. The officers had taken him illegally without any warrant; and really they messed it all through, quite facetiously " He \vill himself also best relate the small domestic difficulty into which he fell m his temporary dwelling upon his unexpectedly discovering it to be unequal to the strain of a dinner party for which mvitations had gone out just before the ^sudden "let" of Devonshire rerrace. The letter is characteristic in other ways, or I should hardly have gone so far into domesticities here; and it enables me to add that w'lth the last on its list of guests, Mr. Thomas Chapman, the chairman ol l.loyd s, he held frequent kindly intercourse, and that few things more absurd or unfounded have been invented, even of Dickens than that he found any part of the original of Mr. Dombey i:i the nature the appearance, or the manners of this excellent and much-valued c . '..^ '^'^^' ^^^^se," he wrote (9 Osnaburgh Terrace, 28 May i»44), advise with a distracted man. Investigation below stairs renders it, as my father would say, 'manifest to any person of ordin- ary intelligence, if the tenn may be considered allowable.' that the Saturday s dinner cannot come off here with safety. It would be a The Life of Charles Dickens 471 toss-up, and might come down heads, but it would put us into an agony with that kind of people. . . . Now, I feel a difficulty in dropping it altogether, and really fear that this might have an inde- finably suspicious and odd appearance. Then said I at breakfast this morning, I'll send down to the Clarendon. Then says Kate, have it at Richmond. Then say I that might be inconvenient to the people. Then she says, how could it be if we dine late enough? Then I am very mv. h offended without exactly knowing why; and come up here, in a state of liopeless mystification. . . . What do you think? Ellis would be quite as dear as anybody else; and unless the weather changes, the place is objectionable. I must make up my mind to do one thing or other, for we shall meet Lord Denham at dinner to-day. Could it be dropped decently? That, I think very doubtful. Could it be done for a couple of guineas apiece at the Clarendon? ... In a matter of more importance I could make up my mind. But in a matter of this kind I bother and bewilder myself, and come to no conclusion whatever. Advise! Advise! . . . List of the invited. There's Lord Normanby. And there's Lord Benham. There's Easthope, wife, r d sister. There's Sydney Smith. There's you and Mac. There's Babbage. There's a Lady Osborne and her daughter. There's Southwood Smith. And there's Quin. And there are Thomas Chapman and his wife. So many of these people have j jver dined with us, that the fix is partic- ularly tight. Advise! Advise!" My advice was for throwing over the party altogether, but additional help was obtained and the dinner went off very pleasantly. . . . The last incident before Dickens's departure was a farewell dinner tc him at Greenwich, which took also the form of a celebration for the completion of Chuzzlewit, or, as the Ballantynes used to call it in Scott's case, a christening dinner; when Lord Normanby took the chair, and I remember sitting next the great painter Turner, who had come with Stanfield, and had enveloped his throat, that sultry summer day, in a huge red belcher-handkerchief, which nothing would induce him to remove. He was not otherwise demonstrative, but enjoyed himself in a quiet silent way, less perhaps at the speeches than at the changing lights on the river. Carlyle did not come; telling me in his reply to the invitation that he truly loved Dickens, having discerned in the inner man of him a real music of the genuine kind, but that he'd rather testify to this in some other form than that of dining out in the dog-days. !: M j gTj'ij^ji i ( ■B . i yw IMMi l iw- 472 The Life of Charles Dickens IV IDLENESS AT ALBARO: VILLA BAGNERELLO 1844 The travelling party arrived at Marseilles on the evening of Sunday 14 July. Not being able to get vethtrino horses in Paris, they had conie on post; paying for nine horses but bringing only four, and thereby saving a shilling a mile out of what the four would have cost in England. So great thus far, however, had been the cost of travel, that "what with distance, caravan, sight-seeing, and everything,'' two hundred pounds would be nearly swallowed up before they were at their destination. The success otherwise had been complete The children had not cried in their worst troubles, the carriage had gone lightly over abominable roads, and the courier had proved himself a perfect gem. "Surrounded by strange and perfectly novel circum- stances," Dickens wrote to me from Marseilles, "I feel as if I had a new head on side by side with my old one." To what shrewd and kindly observation the old one had helped him at every stage of his journey, his published book of travel tells and of all that there will be nothing here; but a couple of experiences at his outset, of which he told me afterwards, have enough character in them to be worth mention. Shortly before there had been some public interest about the captain of a Boulogne steamer apprehended on a suspicion of having stolen specie, but reinstated by his owners after a public apology to him on their behalf; and Dickens had hardly cet f )t on the boat that was to carry them across, when he was attract, by the look of its captain, and discovered him after a minute's talk to be that very man. "Such an honest, simple, good feljow, I never saw," said Dickens, as he imitated for me the homely speech in which his con- fidences were related. The Boulogne people, he said, had given him a piece of plate, "but Lord bless us ! it took a deal more than that to get him round again in his own mind; and for weeks and weeks he was uncommon low to be sure. Newgate, you see ! What a place for a seafaring man as had held up his head afore the best on 'em, and had more friends, I mean to say, and I do tell you the daylight truth than any man on this station— ah ! or any other. I don't care where »'' His first experience in a foreign tongue he made immediately on landing, when he had gone to the bank for money, and after deliver- ing with most laborious distinctness a rather long address in French to the clerk behind the counter, was disconcerted by that function- ary's cool inquiry in the native-born Lombard Street manner "How The Life of Charles Dickens 473 would you like to take it, sir?" He took it, as everybody must, in five-franc pieces, and a most inconvenient coinage he found it; for he required so much that he had to carry it in a couple of small sacks, and was always "turning hot about suddenly" taking it into his head that he had lost them. The evening of Tuesday, i6 July, saw him in a villa at Albaro, the suburb of Genoa in which, upon the advice of our Gore House friends, he had resolved to pass the summer months before taking up his quarters in the city. His wish was to have had Lord Byron's house there, but it had fallen into neghict and become the refuge of a third- rate wineshop. The matter had then been left to Angus Fletcher who just now lived near Genoa, and he had taken at a rent absurdly above its value an unpicturesque and uninteresting dwelling, which at once impressed its new tenant with its likeness to a pink jail. "It is," he said to me, "the most perfectly lonely, rusty, stagnant old staggerer of a domain that you can possibly imagine. What would I give if you could only look round the courtyard ! / look down into it, whenever I am near that side of the house, for the stable is so full of 'vermin and swarmers' (pardon the quotation from my inimitable friend) that I always expect to see the carriage going out bodily, with legions of industrious fleas harnessed to and drawing it off, on their own account. We have a couple of Italia i work-people in our establishment; and to hear one or other of them talking away to our servants with the utmost violence and volubility in Genoese, and our servants answering with great fluency in English (very loud: as if the others were only deaf, not Italian), is one of the most ridiculous things possible. The effect is greatly enhanced by the Genoese manner, which is exceedingly animated and pantomimic; so that two friends of the lower class conversing pleasantly in the street, always seem on the eve of stabbing each other forthwith. And a stranger is immensely astonished at their not doing it." . . . A letter sketched for me the story of his travel through France, and I may at once say that I thus received, from week to week, the "first sprightly runnings" of every description in his Pictures from Italy. But my rule as to the American letters must be here observed yet more strictly; and nothing resembling his printed book, however distantly, can be admitted into these pages. Even so my difficulty of rejection will not be less; for as he had not actually decided, until the very last, to publish his present experiences at all, a larger number of the letters were left unritled by him. He had no settled plan from the first, as in the other case. . . . [In one of his early letters he wrote:] ". . . Good Heavens! Howl wish you'd come for a week or two, and taste the white wine at a penny farthing the pint. It is excellent. . . ." Then, after seven days: "I have got my paper and inkstand and figures now (the box from Osnaburgh Terrace only came last Thursday), and can think — I have begun to do so every morning — with a business-like air, of the Christmas book. My paper is arranged, and my pens are spread I \ 474 The Life of Charles Dickens out m the usual form. I think you know the form— don't vou? Mv books have not passed the custom-house yet, and I tremble for some volumes of Voltau-e. ... I write in the best bedroom. The sun is oil the corner wmdow at the side of the house by a very little after twelve; and I can then throw the blinds open, and look up from mv paper, at the sea. the mountains, the washed-out villas, the vineyards at the blistering white-hot fort with a sentry on the drawbndee standing m a bit of shadow no broader than his own musket and at the sky as often as I like. It is a very peaceful view, and yet a very cheerful one. Quiet as quiet can be." ^ Not yet. however, had the time for writing come A sharp attack of Illness befell his youngest little daughter. Kate, and troubled him much. rhen. after beginning the Italian grammar himself, he had to call in the help of a master; and his learning of the language took up time. But he had an aptitude for it, and after a month's application told nie (24 August) that he could ask in Italian for whatever he wanted in any shop or coffee-house, and could read it pretty well I wish you could see me" (16 September), "without my knowing it" walking about alone here. I am now as bold as a lion in the streets' Ihe audacity with which one begins to speak when there is no helo lor it, IS quite astonishing." ... ^ In the middle of August he dined with the French consul-general ^?1* 5^^ ^''" °°?^ ^^ "^^ impropriety in printing his agreeable sketch of the dinner. There was present, among other Genoese, the Marquis d! Negri, a very fat and much older Jerdan. with the same thickness of speech and size of tongue. He was Byron's friend, keeps open house here, writes poetry, improvises, and is a very good old Blunderbore- just tne sort of instrument to make an artesian well v/ith. anywhere' Well, sir, after dmner. the consul proposed my health with a little French conceit to the effect that I had come to Italy to have personal experience of its lovely climate, and that there was this similarity between the Italian sun and its visitor, that the sun shone into the darkest places and made them bright and happy with its benignant influence, and that my books had done the like with the breasts of men. and so forth. Upon which Blunderbore gives his bright-but- toned blue coat a great rap on the brea^, turns up his fishy eyes stretches out his arm like the living statue defying the lightning at Astley's. and delivers four impromptu verses in my honour, at which everybody is enchanted, and I more than anybody— perhaps with the best reason, for I didn't understand a word of them. The consul then takes from his breast a roll of paper, and says, 'I shall read them!' Blunderbore then says, 'Don't!' But the consul does and Blunderbore beats time to the music of the verse with his knuckles on the table; and perpetually ducks forward to look round the cap of a lady sitting between himself and me to see what I think of them I exhibit lively emotion. The verses are in French— short line— on the taking of Tangiers by the Prince de Joinville; and are received with great applause; especially by a nobleman present who is The Life of Charles Dickens 475 reported to be unable to read and write. They end in my mind (rapidly translating them into prose) thus: The cannon of France Shake the foundation Of the wondering sea, The artillery on the shore Is put to silence. Honour to Joinville And tlie Brave! The Great Intelligence Is borne Upon the wings of Fains To Paris. Her national citizens Excliange caresses In the streets! The temples are crowded With religious patriots kendering thank> To Heaven. The King And all the Royal Family Are bathed In tears. They call upon the name Of Joinville! France also Weeps, and echoes it. Joinville is crowned With Immortality; And Peace and Joinville, And the Glory of France, Diffuse themselves Conjointly. If you can figure to yourself the choice absurdity of receiving any- thing into one's mind in this way, you can imagine the labour I underwent in my attempts to keep the lower part of my face square, and to lift up one eye gently, as with admiring attention. But I am bound to add that this is really pretty literal; for I read them after- wards." At his French friend's house he afterwards made the acquain- tance of Lamartine. . . . The marquis had a splendid house, but Dickens found the grounds so carved into grottoes and fanciful walks as to remind him of noth- ing so much as our old White Conduit House, except that he would have been well pleased, on the present occasion, to have discovered a waiter crying, "Give your orders, gents!" it being not easy to him at any time to keep up, the whole night through, on ices and variegated lamps merely. But the scene for awhile was amusing enough, and not rendered less so bj^ the delight of the marquis himself, "who was con- stantly diving out into dark corners and then among the lattice- work and flower pots, rubbing his hands and going round and round with explosive chuckles in his huge satisfaction with the entertain- ment." With horror it occurred to Dickens, however, that four more hours of this kuid of entertainment would be too much; that the Genoa gates closed at twelve; and that as the caniage had not been ordered till the dancing was expected to be over and the gates to reopen, he must make a sudden bolt if he would himself get back to Albaro. "I had barely time," he told me, "to reach the gate before midnight; and was running as hard as J. could go, downhill, over un- even ground, along a new street, called the Strada Sevra, when I came to a pole fastened straight across the street, nearly breast- high, without any light or watchman — quite in the Italian style. I went over it, headlong, with such force that I rolled myself completely white in the dust; but although I tore my clothes to shreds, I hardly r;cratched myself except in one place on the knee. I had no time to 476 The Life of Charles Dickens think of it then, for I was up directly and off again to save the gate: but when I got outside the wall and saw the state I was in, I won- dered I had not broken my neck. I 't -»k it easy' after this, and walked home, by lonely ways enough, witi.out meeting a single soul. But there is nothing to be feared, I believe, from midnight walks in this part of Italy. In other places you incur the danger of being stabbed by mistake; whereas the people here are quiet ai.d good-tempered, and very rarely commit any outrage." Such adventures, nevertheless, are seldom without consequences, and there followed in this case a short but sharp attack of illness. It came on with the old " unspeakable and agonising pain in the side," for which Bob Fagin had prepared and applied the hot bottles in the old warehouse time; and it yielded quickly to powerful remedies. But for a few days he had to content himself with the minor sights of Albaro. ... In the second week of September he went to meet his brother Frederick at Marseilles, and bring him back over the Cornice road to pass a fortnight's holiday at Genoa: and his description of the first mn upon the Alps they slept in is too good to be lost. "We lay last night," he wrote (9 September), "at the first halting-place on this journey, m an inn which is not entitled, as it ought to be, The house of call for fleas and vermin in general, but is entitled The grand hotel of the Post! I hardly know what to compare it to. It seemed some- thing like a house in Somers Town originally built for a wine-vaults and never finished, but grown very old. There was nothing to eat in It and nothing to drink. They had lost the teapot; and when they found It, they couldn't make out what had become of the lid, which, turnmg up at last and being fixed on to the teapot, couldn't be got off again for the pouring-in of more water. Fleas of elephantine dimen- sions were gambolling boldly in the dirty beds; and the mosquitoes 1 -—But here let me draw a curtain (as I would have done if there had been any). We had scarcely any sleep, and rose up with hands and arms hardly human." . . . WORK IN GENOA: PALAZZO PESCHIERE 1844 . . . The subject for his new Christmas story he had chosen, but he had not found a title for it, or the machnery to work it with; when, at the moment of what seemed to be his greatest trouble, both reliefs came. Sitting down one mornng resolute for work, though against the gram, his hand being out and everything inviting to idleness, such a peal of chimes arose from the city as he found to be "madden- The Lif'. of Charles Dickens 477 ing." All Genoa lay beneath him, and up from it, with some sudden set of the wind, came in one fell sound the clang and clash of all its steeples, pouring into his ears, again and again, in a tuneless, grating, discordant, jerking, hideous vibration that made his ideas "spin round and round till they lost themselves in a whirl of vexation and giddin-^ss, and dropped down dead." He had never before so suffered, nor did he again; but this was his description to me next day, and his excuse for having failed in a promise to send me his title. Only two days later, however, came a letter in which not a syllable was written but "We have heard the Chimes at midnight. Master Shallow!" and I knew he had discovered what he wanted. Other difficulties were still to be got over. He craved for the London streets. He so missed his long night-walks before beginning anything that he seemed, as he said, dumbfounded without them. "I can't help thinking of the boy in the school-class whose button was cut off by Walter Scott and his friends. Put me down on Waterloo Bridge at eight o'clock in the evening, with leave to roam about as long as I like, and I would come home, as you know, panting to go on. I am sadly strange as it is, and can't settle. You will have lots of hasty notes from me while I am at work: but you know your man; and whatever strikes me, I shall let off upon you as if I were in Devon- shire Terrace. It's a great thing to have my title, and see my way how to work the bells. Let them clash upon me now from all the churches and convents in Genoa, I see nothing but the old London belfry I have set them in. In my mind's eye, Horatio, I like more and more my notion of making, in this little book, a great blow for the poor. Something powerful, I think I can do, but I want to be tender too, and cheerful; as like the Carol in that respect as may be, and as unlike it as such a thing can be. The duration of the action will resemble ?' a little, but I trust to the novelty of the machinery to carry that o^ and if my design be anything at all, it has a grip upon the very throa of the time." (8 October.) Thus bent upon his work, for which he never had been in more earnest mood, he was disturlaed by hearing that he must attend the levee of the governor, who had unexpectedly arrived in the city, and who would take it as an affront, his eccentric friend Fletcher told him, if that courtesy were not immediately paid. "It was the morning on which I was going to begin, so J wrote round to our consul," — praying, of course, that excuse should be made for him. Don't bother yourself, replied that sensible functionary, for all the consuls and governors alive; but shut yourself up by all means. "So," continues Dickens telling me the tale, "he went next morning in great state, and full costume, to present two English gentlemen. 'Where's the great poet?' said the Governor. 'I want to see the great poet.' 'The great poet, your excellency,' said the consul, 'is at work, writing a book, and begged me to make his excuses.' 'Excuses!' said the Governor, 'I wouldn't interfere with such an occupation for all the world. Pray tell him that my house is open to the honour of his i ") ! H I 1 » ; I »M ¥' 478 The Life of Charles Dickens presence when it is perfectly convenient for him; but not otherwise. And let no gentleman,' said the Governor, a surweyin' of his suite with majestic eye, call upon Signor Dickens till he is understood to be disengaged.' And he sent somebody with his own cards next day. Now I do seriously call this, real politeness and pleasant consideration — not positively American, but still gentlemanly and polished. The same spirit pervades the inferior depi-rtments; and I have not been required to observe the usual police regulations, or to put myself to the slightest trouble about anything." {i8 October.) . . . He kept his promise that I should hear from him while writing, and I had frequent letters when he was fairly m his work. "With my steam very much up, I find it a great trial to be so far off from you, and consequently to have no one (always excepting Kate and Georgy) to whom to expatiate on my day's work. And I want a crowded street to plunge into at night. And I want to be 'on the spot' as it were. But apart from such things, the life I lead is favour- able to work." In his next letter: 'I am in regular, ferocious excite- ment with the Chimes; get up at seven; have a cold bat' before breakfast; and blaze away, wrathful and red-hot, until three o'clock or so: when I usually knock off (unless it rains) for the day. ... I am fierce to finish in a spirit bearing some affinity to those of truth and mercy, and to shame the cruel and the canting. I have not forgotten my catechism. 'Yes, verily, and with Gou's help, so I Willi'" Within a week he had completed his first part, or quarter. "I send you to-day" (i8 October), "by mail, the first and longest of the four divisions. This is great for the first week, which is usually uphill. I have kept a copy in shorthand in case of accidents. I hope to senrl you a parcel every Monday until the whole is done. I do not wish to influence you, but it has a great hold upon me, and has affected me, in the doing, in divers strong ways, deeply, forcibly. ..." A visit from him to London was to be expected almost imme- diately! That all remonstrance would be idle, under the restless excitement his work had awakened, I well knew. It was not merely the wish he had, natural enough, to see the last proofs and the wood- cuts before the day c: publication, which he could not otherwise do; but it was the stronger and more eager wish, before that final launch, to have a vivider sense than letters could give him of the effect of what he had been doing. "If I come, I shall put up at Cuttris's" (then the Piazza Hotel in Co vent Garden), "that I may be close to you. Don't say to anybody, except our immediate friends, that I am coming. Then I shall not be bothered. If I should preserve my present fierce writing humour, in any pass I may run to V, lice, Bologna, and Florence, before I turn my face towards Lincoln's Inn Fields; and come to England by Milan and Turin. But this of course deptinds in a greac measure on your reply." My reply, dwelling on the fatigue and cost, had the reception I foresaw. "Notwithstanding what you say, I am still in the same mind about coming to London. The Lite of Charles Dickens 479 Not because the proois concern me at all (f should be an ass as well as a thanklc. ., /agabond if they did), but becaust! of that unspeakable restless something which would render it almost as impcxssiblc for me to remain here and not see the thing complete, as it would Ix; for a full balloon, left to itself, not to go up. I do not intend coming from here, but by way of Milan and Turin (previously goin|» to Venice), and so, across the wildest pass of the Alps that may b(; open, to Strasburg. ... As you dislike the Young ICngland gentleman I shall knock him out, and replace him by a man (I can dash him in at your rooms in an hour) who recognises no virtue in anything but the good old times, and talks of them, parrot-like, whatever the matter is. A real good old city Tory, in a blue coat and bright buttons and a white cravat, and with a tendency of blood to the head. File away at Filer, as you please; but bear in mind t.^at the Westminster Review considered Scrooge's presentation of the turkey to Bob Cratchit as grossly incompatible with political economy. I don't care at all for the skittle-v^laying." These were among things I iiad objected to. But the close of his lettei revealed more than its ;jening of the reason, not at once so frankly confessed, for the long wini.er-journey he was about to make; and -f it be thought that, in printing the passage, I take a liberty with my friend, it will be found that equal liberty is taken with myself, whom it good-naturedly caricatures; so that the reader can enjoy h'^j laugh at either or both. "Shall I confess to you, I particularly want Carlyle above all to see it before the rest of the world, when it is done; and I should like to inflict the little stor^- on him and on dear old gallant Macready with my own lips, and to have Stanny and the other Mac sitting by. Now, if you was a real gent, you'd get up a little circle for me, one wet evening, v/hen I come tc town: and would say, 'My boy (sir, will you have the good- ness to leave those books alone and go downstairs — What the devil are you doing! And mind, sir, I can see nobody — Do you hear.? Nobody. I am particularly engaged with a gentleman from Asia) — My boy, would you give us that little Christmas book (a little Christmas book of Dickens's, Macready, which I'm anxious you should hear); and don't slur it, now or be too fast, Dickens, please !' — I say, if you was a real gent, sometiiing to this effect might happen. I shall be under sailing orders the moment I have finished. And I shall produce myself (please God) in London on the very day you name. For one week: to the hour." The wish was complied with, of course; and that night in Lincoln's Inn Fields led to rather memorable issues. His next letter told me the little tale was done. "Third of November, 1844. Half-past t\vo, afternoon. Thank God ! I have finished the Chimes. This moment. I take up my pen again to-day, to say only that much; and to add that I have had what women call 'a real good cry.' " Very genuine all this, it is hardly necessary to say. The little book thus completed was not one of his greater successes, and it raised him up some objectors; I 48o The Life of Charles Dickens p* ii.f. but there was that in it which more than repaid the suffering its writing cost him. and the enmity its opinions provoked; and in his own heart i+ had a cherished corner to the last. . . . VI ITALIAN TRAVEL 1844 So it all fell out accordingly. He parted from his disconsolate wife as he told me in his first letter from Ferrara. on Wednesday. 6 Novem! ber: le t her shut up nrher palace like a baron's lady in the time of the Crusades; and had his first real experience of the wonders of Ttalv He lTf^t.T^'H wT^'-^"^°^"^ ^^^''^'^' ^^"^^^' Verona, and Mantua As tc all which the impressions conveyed to me in his letters have been more or less given in his published Pictures On Sunday the 17th. he was at Lodi, from which he wrote to me that J.e had been, ike Leigh Hunt's pig. up "all manner of streets'' since he left his palazzo; that with one exception he had not on anv night given up more than five hours to rest; that all the davs excedt tjvo had been bad ("the last two foggy as Blackfriars Bridge on LoS Mayor s Day"); and that the cold had been dismal. But what cheerful keen, observant eyes he carried everywhere; and, in the midst of new ana unaccustomed scenes, and of objects and remains of art for which no previous study had prepared him. with what a delicate play of imagination and fancy the accuracy of his ordinary vision was exalted and refined. 1 think strikingly shown by the few unstudld passages I am preserving from the^i friendly letters "I am alr-Pdy brim-full of cant about pictures* and shall be happy to enlighten you on the subject of the different schools at anv length you please. It seems to me that the preposterous exaggeration in which our countrymen delight in reference to this Italf harcUv extends to the really good things. Perhaps it is in its nat^ure that there it snould fall short. I have never yet seen any praise of Titian^s great picture of the 'Assumption of the Virgin' at Venice Sh soared half as high as the beautiful and amafing reality .Tt i^per fection. Tintoretto's picture too, of the 'Assembly of the Blest 'at Venice also, with all the lines in it (it is of immense size and the figures are countless) tending majestically and dutifully to Almightv God in the centre is grand and noble in the extreme. There are some wonderful portraits there, besides; and some confused, and hurriS and slaughterous battle pieces, in which the surprising ar? thai presents the generals to your eye, so that it is almost impossible you T.!!!!ff !^T 'V ^^^^^ though they are in the thick of it, is verv .^^4. 4.^ J— _ii - „ - --"-o ^j «xv. XII I.I.C LiucK oi It, IS verv ocxx. .V. dwell upon. 1 nave seen some delightful pictures; and some (at ^ to laugh a rum 'uns are clear slavishly i day after turning re have a gi becomes < who were priests. p< see, in pic the paint convent s inmates o all the lai that in si the vanit canvas a1 In the quite a i Italian in England; which is ( than you tual; and a beast n The wind (a cat C01 mand of 1 positivel3 like leave hearth w only kno and an aj an uncon strictly i painted ( dinner; a the chara amiably ( English, pleasure Of the instances publishe* essential may prei 334 The Life of Charles Dickens 481 some (at Verona and Mantua) really too absurd and ridiculous even to laugh at. Hampton Court is a fool to 'em— and oh there are some rum 'uns there, my friend. Some werry rum 'uns. . . . Two things are clear to me already. One is, that the rules of art are much too- slavishly followed; making it a pain to you, when you go into galleries day after day, to be so very precisely sure where this figure will be turning round, and that figure will be lying down, ?»nd that other will have a great lot of drapery twined about him, and so forth. This becomes' a perfect nightmare. The second is, that these great men, who were of necessity very much in the hands of the monks and priests, painted monks and priests a vast deal too often. I constantly see, in pictures of tremendous power, heads quite below the story and the painter; and I invariably observe that those heads are of the convent stamp, and have their counterparts, exactly, in the convent inmates of this hour. I see the portraits of monks I know at Genoa, in all the lame parts of strong paintings: so I have settled with myself that in such cases the lameness was not with the painter, but with the vanity and ignorance of his employers, who would be apostles on canvas at all events." In the same letter he described the Inns. "It is a great thing — quite a matter of course — with English travellers, to decry the Italian inns. Of course you have no comforts that you are used to in England; and travelling alone, you dine in your bedroom always; which is opposed to our habits. But they are immeasurably better than you would suppose. The attendants are very quick; very punc- tual; and so obliging, if you s )eak to thern politely, that you would be a beast not to look cheerful, and take everything pleasantly. . . . The windows won't open, and the doors won't shut; and these latter (a cat could get in, between them and the floor) have a windy com- mand of a colonnade which is open to the night, so that my slippers positively blow off my feet, and make little circuits in the room — like leaves. There is a very ashy wood-fire, burning on an immense hearth which has no fender (there is no such thing in Italy); and it only knows two extremes — an agony of heat when wood is put on, and an agony of cold when it has been on two minutes. There is also an uncomfortable stain in the wall, where the fifth door (not being strictly indispensable) was walled up a year or two ago, and never painted over. But the bed is clean; and I have had an excellent dinner; and without being obsequious or servile, which is not at all the characteristic of the people in the north of Italy, the waiters are so amiably disposed to invent little attentions which they suppose to be English, and are so lighthearted and good-natured, that it is a pleasure to have to do with them. ... Of the help his courier continued to be to him I had whimsical instances in almost every letter, but he appears too often in the published book to require such celebration here. He is, however, an essential figure to two little scenes sketched for me at Lodi, and I may prefac'e them by saying that Louis Roche, a native of Avignon. 334 I M 482 The Life of Charles Dickens justified to the close his master's high opinion. He was again engaged for nearly a year in Switzerland, and soon after, poor fellow, though with a jovial robustness of look and breadth of chest that promised unusual length of days, was killed by heart-disease. "The brave C. continues to be a prodigy. He puts out my clothes at every inn as if I were going to stay there twelve months; calls me to the instant every morning; lights the fire before I get up; gets hold of roast fowls and produces them in coaches at a distance from all other help, in hungry moments; and is invaluable to me. He is such a good fellow, too, that little rewards don't spoil him. I always give him, after I have dined, a tumbler of Sauterne or Hermitage or whatever 1 may have; sometimes (as yesterday) when we have come to a public- house at about eleven o'clock, very cold, having started before daybreak and had nothing, I make him take his breakfast with me; and this renders him only more anxious than ever, by redoubling attentions, to show me that he thinks he has got a good master. ... I didn't tell you that the day before I left Genoa, we had a dinner-party— our English consul and his wife; the banker; Sir George Crawford and his wife; the De la Rues; Mr. Curry; and some others, fourteen in all. At about nine in the morning, two men in immense paper caps inquired at the door for the brave C, who presently introduced them in triumph as the governor's cooks, his private friends, who had come to dress the dinner! Jane wouldn't stand this, however; so we were obliged to decline. Then there came, at half- hourly intervals, six gentlemen having the appearance of English clergymen, being other private friends who had come to wait. . . . We accepted their services; and you never saw anything so nicely and quietly done. He had asked, as a special distinction, to be allowed the supreme control of the dessert; and he had ices made like fruit, had pieces of crockery turned upside-down so as to look like other pieces of crockery non-existent in this part of Europe, and carried a case of toothpicks in his pocket. Then his delight was, to get behind Kate at one end of the table, to look at me at the other, and to say to Georgy in a low voice whenever he handed her anything, "What does master think of datter 'rangement? Is he content?' ... If you could see what these fellows of couriers are when their families are not upon the move, you would feel what a prize he is. I can't make out whether he was ever a smuggler, but nothing will induce him to give the custom-house officers anything: in consequence of which that portmanteau of mine has been unnecessarily opened twenty times. Two of them will come to the coach-door, at the gate of a town. 'Is there anything contraband in this carriage, signore?' 'No, no. There's nothing here. I am an Englishman, and this is my servant.' 'A buono mano signore?' 'Roche' (in English), 'give him something, and get rid of him.' He sits unmoved. 'A buono mano signore?' 'Go along with you!' says the brave C. 'Signore, I am a custom-house officer!' 'Well, then, more shame for you!' — he always makes the same answer. And then he turns to me and says in English: while the in the coa told to hi greatest ti that I car include tl the old bl He clos her sister couple of London. am still b walked ti write to enhance so wide !' There but to wr flashed u before I c It is alm( ing. Han the visit form for day, 2 I aloud. . He wr see Macr English Fields. T dismal r before t< Madam size, froi stand uj my life picked I swollen 1 Helef did not ] days an confusio detained manage( As he w( traveller blarmcd Five Ah The Life of Charles Dickens 483 while the custom-house officer s face is a portrait of anguish framed in the coach window, from his intense desire to know what is being told to his disparagement: 'Datter chip,' shaking his fist at him, 'is greatest tief — and you know it you rascal — as never did en-razh me so, that I cannot bear myself!' I suppose chip to mean chap, but it may include the custom-house officer's father and have some reference to the old block, for anything I distinctly know." He closed his Lodi letter next day at Milan, whither his wife and her sister had made an eighty miles' journey from Genoa, to pass a couple of days with him in Prospero's old dukedom before he left for London. "We shall go our several ways on Thursday morning, and I am still bent on appearing at Cuttris's on Sunday the first, as if I had walked thither from Devonshire Terrace. In the meantime I shall not write to you again ... to enhance the pleasure (if anything can enhance the pleasure) of our meeting. . . . I am opening my arms so wide!" ... There was certainly no want of animation when we met. I have but to write the words to bring back the eager face and figure, as they flashed upon me so suddenly this wintry Saturday night that almost before I could be conscious of his presence I felt the grasp of his hand. It is almost all I find it possible to remember of the brief, bright meet- ing. Hardly did he seem to have come when he was gone. But all that the visit proposed he accomplished. He saw his little book in its final form for publication; and, to a select few brought together on Mon- day, 2 December, at my house, had the opportunity of reading it aloud. ... , . , 1 . He wrote from Paris, at which he had stopped on his way back to see Macready, whom an engagement to act there with Mr. Mitchell's English company had prevented from joining us in Lincoln's Inn Fields. There had been no such frost and snow since 1829, and he gave dismai report of the city. With Macready he had gone two nights before to the Odeon to see Alexander Dumas' Christme played by Madam St. George, "once Napoleon's mistress; now of an immense size, from dropsy I suppose; and with little weak legs which she can't stand upon Her age, withal, somewhere about 80 or 90. I never in my life beheld such a sight. Every stage conventionality she ever picked up (and she had them all) has got the dropsy too, and is swollen and bloated hideously. ... He left Paris on the night of the i3tn with the tnalle paste, whicn did not reach Marseilles till fifteen hours behind its time, after three days and three nights travelling over horrible roads. Then, ma confusion between the two rival packets for Genoa, he unwillingly detained one of them more than an hour from sailing; and only managed at last to get to her just as she was moving out of harbour. As he went up the side, he saw a strange sensation among the angry travellers whom he had detained so long; heard a voice exclaim "I am _'„»iT^.^. ,»,».,, I" ^-nA t^4-r^r-kA in fhr* r*>r)frp nf a. crnii'D of Diarmca oi ii uiii ii-ri'-r,.r^N = ii \m Five Americans^. But the pleasantest part of the story is that they I i 484 The Life of Charles Dickens were, one and all, glad to see him; that their chief man, or leader, who had met him in New York, at once introduced them all round with the remark, "Personally our countrymen, and you, can fix it friendly, sir, I do expectuate," and that, through the stormy passage to Genoa which followed, they were excellent friends. For the greater part of the time, it is true, Dickens had to keep to his cabin; but he contrived to get enjoyment out of them nevertheless. . . . ill VII LAST MONTHS IN ITALY 1845 On 22 December he had resumed his ordinary Genoa life. . . . A journey southward began on 20 January, and five days later I had a letter written from La Scala, at a little'inn, "supported on low brick arches like a British ha^/stack," the bed in their room "like a mangle," the ceiling without lath or plaster, nothing to speak of available for comfort or decency, and nothing particular to eat or drink. "But for all this I have become attached to the country and I don't care who knows it." Before Radicofani was reached, there were disturbing rumours of bandits and even uncomfortable whispers as to their night's lodging- place : "Can you imagine" (he named a first-rate bore, for whose name I shall substitute) "M. F. G. in a very frowsy brown cloak con- cealing his whole figure, and with very white hair and a very white beard, darting out of this place with a long staff in his hand, and bp'-ging? There he was, whether you can or not; out of breath with the rapidity of his dive, and staying with his staff all the Radicofani boys, that he might fight it out with me alone. It was very v/et, and so was I: for I had kept, according tg custom, my box-seat. It was blowing so hard that I could scarcely stand; and there was a custom- house on the spot, besides. Over and above all this, I had no small money; and the brave C. never has, when I want it for a beggar. When I had excused myself several times, he suddenly drew himself up and said, with a wizard look (fancy the aggravation of M. F. G. as a wizard !), 'Do you know what you are doing, my lord? Do you mean to go on to-day.?' 'Yes,' I said, 'I do.' 'My lord,' he said, 'do you know that your vetturino is unacquainted with this part of the country; that there is a wind raging on the mountain, which will sweep you away; that the courier, the coach, and all the passengers, were blown from the road last year; and that the danger is great and almost certain?' 'No,' I said, 'i don't.^ My lord, you don't under- stand me, I think?' 'Yes, I do, d you!' nettled by this (you feel The Life of Charles Dickens ader, who )und with b friendly, assage to le greater in; but he 485 fe ys later I 3d on low n "like a speak of to eat or try and I mours of ; lodging- or whose loak con- sry white and, and ath with idicofani wet, and t. It was custom- no small beggar. r himself F. G. as ou mean 'do you t of the lich will isengers, reat and t under- you feel it? I confess it). 'Speak to my servant. It's his business. Not mine' — for he really was too like M. F. G. to be borne. If you could have seen him! — 'Santa Maria, these English lords! It's not their business if they're killed ! They leave it to their servants I' He drew off the boys; whispered them to keep away from the heretic; and ran up the hill again, almost as fast as he had come down. He stopped at a little distance as we moved on; and pointing to Roche with his long staff cried loudly after me, 'It's his business if you're killed, is it, my lord? Ha! ha! ha! whose business is it when the English lords are born ! Ha ! ha ! ha !' The boys taking it up in a shrill yell, I left the joke and them at this point. But I must confess that I thought he had the best of it. And he had so far reason for what he urged, that when we got on the mountain pass the wjnd became terrific, so that we were obliged to take Kate out of the carriage lest she should be blown over, carriage and all. and had ourselves to hang on to it, on the windy side, to prevent its going Heaven knows where !" The first impression of Rome was disappointing. It was the evening of 30 January, and the cloudy sky, dull cold rain and muddy foot- ways, he was prepared for; but he was not prepared for the long streets of commonplace shops and houses like Paris or any other capital, the busy people, the equipages, the ordinary walkers up and down. "It was no more my Rome, degraded and fallen and lying asleep in the sun among a heap of ruins, than Lincoln's Inn Fields is. So I really went to bed in a very indifferent humour." That all this yielded to later and worthier impressions I need hardly say; and he had never in his life, he told me afterwards, been so moved or overcome by any sight as by that of the Coliseum, "except perhaps by the first con- templation of the Falls of Niagara." . . . Two more months were to finish his Italian holiday, and I do not think he enjoyed any part of it so much as its close. He had formed a real friendship for Genoa, was greatly attached to the social circle he had drawn round him there, and liked rest after his travel all the more for the little excitement of living its activities over again, week by week, in these letters to me. Of incidents during these remaining weeks there were few, but such as he mentioned had in them points of humour or character still worth remembering. Two men were hanged in the city; and two ladies of quality, he told me, agreed to keep up for a time a prayer for the souls of these two miserable creatures so incessant that Heaven should never for a moment be left alone: to which end "they relieved each other" after such wise, that, for the whole of the stated time, one of them was always on her knees in the cathedral church of San Lorenzo. From which he inferred that "a morbid sympathy for criminals is not wholly peculiar to England, though it affects more people in that country perhaps than in any other." . . . Another little incident is also characteristic. An English ship of war, the Fantome, appeared in the harbour; and from her commander, Sir Frederick Nicolson, Dickens received, among attentions very f j I I i 1 t 486 The Life of Charles Dickens pleasant to him, an invitation to lunch on board and bring his wife, for whom, at a time appointed, a boat was to be sent to the Ponte Reale (the royal bridge). But no boat being there at the time, Dickens sent off his servant in another boat to the ship to say he feared some mistake. "While we were walking up and down a neighbouring piazza in his absence, a brilliant fellow in a dark blue shirt with a white hem to it all round the collar, regular corkscrew curls, and a face as brown as a berry, comes up to me and says, 'Beg your pardon sir, Mr. Dickens?' 'Yes.' 'Beg your pardon ^r, but I'm one of the ship's company of the Phaniom sir, cox'en of the cap'en's gig r.ir, she's a- lying off the pint sir — been there half an hour.' Well but my good fellow,' I said, 'you're at the wrong place!' 'Beg your pardon sir, I was afeerd it was the wrong place sir, but I've asked them Genoese here, sir, twenty times if it was Port Real; and they knows no more than a dead jackasGi' — Isn't it a good thing to have made a regular Portsmouth name of it?" . . . His last letter from Genoa was written on 7 June, not from the Peschiere, but from a neighbouring palace, "Brignole Rosso," into which he had fled from the miseries of moving. "They are all at sixes and sevens up at the Peschiere, as you may suppose; and Roche is in a condition of tremendous excitement, engaged in settling the inventory with the house-agent, who has just told me he is the devil himself. I had been appealed to, an 1 had contented myself with this expression of opinion, 'Signor Noli, you are an old impostor!' 'Illustrissimo,' said Signor Noli in reply, 'your servant is the devil himself: sent on earth to torture me.' I look occasionally towards the Peschiere (it is visible from this room), expecting to see one of them flying out of a window. . . . ' II BOOK FIFTH LONDON. LAUSANNE AND PARIS 1845-7. ^T. 33-5 I. Again in England. IL Retreat to Switzerland. III. Swiss People and Scenery. IV. Sketches chiefly Personal. V. Three Months in Paris. Ill I ri*j 1 487 .1 i ( His firsi revived ; changed agreeme with hiri a period receive t populari 1 one, for ' < much in weekly; notices c of all ba( of humh time of '1 beaming i call it, s i 1 "Now would c that she ! at peop] 1 long daj 1 and in a ■! would a 1 confidei i from al] tinct an chirp, c we] . 33^ j - AGAIN IN ENGLAND 1845-6 His first letter after again taking possession of Devonshire Terrace revived a subject on which opinions had been from time to time inter- changed during his absence, and to which there was allusion in the agreement executed before his departure. The desire was still as strong with him as when he started Master Humphrey's Clock to establish a periodical, that, while relieving his own pen by enabling him to receive frequent help from other writers, might retain always the popularity of his name. "I really think I have an idea, and not a bad one, for the periodical. I have turned it over, the last two days, very much in my mind: and think it positively good. I incline still to weekly; price three-halfpence, if possible; partly original, partly select; notices of books, notices of theatres, notices of all good things, notices of all bad ones; Carol philosophy, chee-^'ul views, sharp anatomisation of humbug, jolly good temper; papers always in season, pat to the time of year; and a vein of glowing, hearty, generous, mirthful, beaming reference in everything to Home and Fireside. And I would call it, sir: THE CRICKET A cheerful creature that churnips on the Hearth. Natural History. "Now, don't decide hastily till you've heard what I would do. I would come out, sir, with a prospectus on the subject of the Cricket that should put everybody in a good temper, and make such a dash at people's fenders and arm-chairs as hasn't been made for many a long day. I could approach them in a difEerent mode under this name, and in a more winning and immediate way, than under any other. I would at once sit down upon their very hobs; and take a personal and confidential position with them which should separate me, instantly, from all other periodicals periodically published, and supply a dis- tinct and sufiicient reason for my coming into existence. And I would chirp, chirp, chirp away in every number until I chirped it up to well, you shall 1 how many hundred thousand ! . . . '* 334 489 J : m i s ill 490 The Life of Charles Dickens My objection, incident more or less to every such scheme, was the risk of losing its general advantage by making it too specially dependent on individual characteristics; but there was much in favour of the present notion, and its plan had l)ecn modified so far, in the discussions that followed, as *^o involve less absolute jiersonal iden- tification with Dickens,— when discussion, project, everything was swept away by a larger scIumuc, in its extent and its danger more suitable to the wild and hazardous ent'^prisos of that prodigious year (1845) of e>:citen\ent and disaster. In this more tremendous adventure, already hinted at on a previous page, we all brcame in- volved; and the chirp of the Cricket, delayed in conscnpu nee imtil Christmas, was heard then in circumstances quite other than those first intended. The change he thus announced to mc about half way through the summer, in the same letter which told me the success of d'Orsay's kind exertion to procure a fresh engagement for his courier Roche. "What do you think o'i a notion that has occurred to mo in connection with our abiindoned little weekly? It would be a delicate and beautiful fancy for a Christmas book, making the Cricket a little household god— silent in the wrong and sorrow of the tale, and loud again when all went well and happy." The reader will not need to be told that thus originated the story of the Crichfit on the Hearth, a Fairy Tale of Home, which had a great popularity in the Chri.stmas days of 1845. Its sale at the outset doubled that of both its prede- cessors. But as yet the larger adventure had not made itself known, and the interval was occupied with the private play of which the notion had been started between us at his visit in December, and which led to his disclosure of a pas.sagc in his early career belonging to that interval between his school-days and start in life when he had iu pass nearly two weary years as a reporter for one of the oflices in Doctors' Commons, from which he sought relief by an attempt to get upon the stage. I had asked him, alter his return to Genoa, whether he continued to think that we should have the play; and his reply be- gan thus: "Are we to have that play? ? ? Have I spoken of it, ever since I came home from London, as a settled thing! I do not know if I have ever told you seriou.sly, but 1 have often thought, that I should certainly have been as successful on the boards as 1 have been between them. I assure you, when I was on the stage vt Montreal (not having played for years) I was as much astonished at the reality and ease, to myself, of what I did as if I had been another man. See how oddly things come about!" ... Graver things now claim a notice which need not be proportioned to their gravity, because, though they had an immediate effect on Dickens's fortunes, they do not otherwise form part of his story. But first let me say, he was at Broadstairs for three weeks in the autumn; we had the private play on his return; and a month later, on 28 October, a sixth child and fourth son, named Alfred Tennyson aiter his godfathers d'Orsay and Tennyson, was born in Devonshire 'vj'' The Life of Charles Dickens 49t Tcrraco a do.ith in tho fnniilv followed, tho oldrr and motv RifteM oT Jrrav ens having inaul^ iho .am. illicit tanto for pnttv and paint which ha I l>oon fatal to his pmlcoe.sor. Voracity M\^d »»m. «« Jt Wk<l ScottVHn aioa unoxpoctodly l^^forc the kitchen-fire. He kept hi, ey^^ to the last upon the meat as it ro«Hte<l. «m» «;''';»;';>y tun ed oveT on his back with a sepulchral cry of ( uckr^or he letter wS tohl tne this (,t October) announced to me also that he was at a eadlock m his Christmas story: "Sick, bothered and depressed. Visims of Brighton come upon me; and I have a great mtnd to gB thereto finish mv second part. .>r t.) Hampstond. I have a desperate oug of "lack Straw's; I nevn- was in such bad wr.tuig cue as I Vm this week in all my life." The reason was n«)t far to seek. In ?he nrAmratk;n for the proposed new Daily I'aper he was novv activ^\7as^sHng! ^id had all V>ut consented to the publication of ^''VciZtaine^l at this time, for more than one powerful reason, the greatest misgiving of his intended share in the adventure. It was not fuUv revealed uniil later on what dilhcult terms, physical as well as meUarmkeiiB heM the tenure of his imaginative life; but a ready I l^^^ew enough to .ioubt the wisdom of what he was at present under- Hki^R n all intellectual labour, his will prevailed so s rongly when he xecUt n any object of desire, thai what else its attainment might cx'ict w s ne7er duly measure ... and this led to frequent strain and untmictois waste of what no man could less aiTord to spare, lo the 3dS\cnedbyhiswork.itspn)ducticMimig1itnlwayshavefleemed ouite a^^ e^^^^^^ its enjoyment! but it may be doubted If ever any man's mentJl effort cost him more. His habits were robust, but not s hea th that secret had been disclosed to me before he went to Amedca an(l to the last he dccide.lly refused lo admit the enormous pr^e he ha P^ Ms triumphsandsuccesses. The morningafter his ast note 1 I card again. "1 have been so very unwell this morning, witli gidcl ness and headache, and botheration of one sort or other, U at 1 n't get up till noon: and. shunning Fleet Street ( Ij^ on.ce of he pr posed new paper), "am now going for a country walk, in the cour^e^of which you will find me. if you feel disposed to come away in the c irriaee that goes to you with this. U is to call for a pull of the ft St p^^^^^^^ Te Cricket, L\ will bring you. if you ike. by way o ilaUsiead to me. and subsequently to dinner. There is much I should like to discuss, if you can manage it. It's the loss of my walks I suppose but 1 am as giddy as if I were drunk, and can hardly see^ I pave hir from sufhcient importance at the time to the frecpiency of com- Xin ts o this kind, or ti the recurrence, at almost regular periods a ter the year following the present of those spasms in the side of which he has recorded an instance in the recollections of his childhood. UK of w^^^^^^ «n attack in Genoa; but though tiot conscious it to Us full extent, this consideration was among tho e that influ- or It to Its lu '^^^. ^^ ntnrlppvniir to tum him from what could n^t but be regarded as full of peril. His health, however, had no [*; ri ■^ i ■ i 1 1 1 , ■'1 1,1 1 1^ fl 1 1 492 The Life of Charles Dickens real prominence in my letter; and it is strange now to observe that it appears as an argument in his reply. I had simp'y put before him, in the strongest form, all the considerations d-awn from his genius and fame that should deter him from the labour and responsibility of a daily paper, not less than from the party and political involvements incident to it; and here was the material part of the answer made: "Many thanks for your affectionate letter, which is full of generous truth. These considerations weigh with me, heavily: but 1 think I descry in these times, greater stimulants to such an effort; greater chance of some fair recognition of it, greater means of preserving in it, or retiring from it unscratched by any weapon one should care for; than at any other period. And most of all I have, sometimes, t).at possibility of failing health or fading popularity before me, which beckons me to such a venture when it comes within my reach. At the worst, I have written to little purpose, if 1 cannot write my^Uf right in people's minds, in such a case as this." And so it went on: but it does not fall within my plan to describe more than the issue, which was to be accounted so far at least fortu- nate that it established a journal which has advocated steadily im- provements in the condition of all classes, rich as well a^ poor, and has been able, during late momentous occurrences, to give wider scope to its influence by its enterprise and liberaltv. To that result, the great writer whose name gave its earliest att action to the Daily News was not enabled to contribute much; but from him it certainly received the first impress of the opinions it has since consistently- maintained. Its prospectus is before me in his handwriting, but it bears upon itself sufficiently the character of his hand and mind. The paper would be kept free, it said, from personal influence or party bias; and would be devoted to the advocacy of all rational and honest means by which wrong might be redressed, just rights maintained, and the happiness and welfare of society promoted. The day for the appearance of its first number was that which was to follow Peel's speech for the repeal of the Corn Laws; but, brief as my allusions to the subject are, the remark should be made that even before this day came there were interruptions to the work of preparation, at one time very grave, whicu threw such "changes of vexation" on Dickens's personal relations ' , th'^ v :iture as went far to destroy both his faith and his pleasure lu it. No opinion need be offered as to where most of the blame lay, and it would be useless now to apportion the share that might possibly have belonged to himself; but, owing to this cause, his editorial work began with such dimin- ished ardour that its brief continuance could not but be looked for. A 'ittle note written "before going home" at six o'clock in the morn- iiig ot Wednesday, 21 January, 1846, to tell me they had "been at press i hree-quarters of an hour, and were out before The Times," marks the beginning; and a note written m .he night of Monday, '9 -J ..,v« I.-.. vi--tt.vix Kiivt --j^Liii-w -.Tf^in uui., Lu aay mm. no haci ■just resigned his editorial functions, describes the end. I had not been The Life of Charles Dickens 493 unprepared. A week before (Friday. 30 January) he had written: "I want a long talk with you. I was obliged to come down here in a hurry to give out a travelling letter I meant to have given out last night, and could not call upon yt,u. Will you dine with us to-morrow at six sharp? 1 tiave been revolving plans in my mind this morning for quitting the paper and going abroad again to write a new book in shilling numbers. Shall we go to Rochester to-morrow week (my birthday) if the weather be, as it surely must be, better?" To Roch- ester accordingly we had gone, he and Mrs. Dickens and her sister, with Maclise and Jerrold and myself; going over the old Castle! Watts's Charity, and Chatham fortifications on the Saturday, passing' Sunday in Cobham church and Cobham Park; having our quarters both days at the "Bull" Inn made famous in Pickwick; and thus, by indulgence of the desire which was always strangely urgent in him! associating his new resolve in life with those earliest scenes of his youthful time. On one point our feeling had been in thorough agree- ment. If long continuance with the paper was not likely, the earliest possible departure from it was desirable. But as the letters descriptive of his Italian travel (turned afterwards into Pictures from Italy) had begun with its first number, his name could not at once be withdrawn; and. for the time durirr; which they were still to appear he consented to contribute other occasional letters on important social questions. Public executions and Ragged Schools were among the subjects chosen by him, and all were handled with conspicuous ability, But the interval they covered was a short one. To the supreme control which he had quitted, I succeeded, retain- ing it very reluctantly for the greater part of that weary, anxious, laborious year; but in little more than four months from the day the paper started, the whole of Dickens's connection with the Daily News, even that of contributing letters with his signature, had ceased. As he said in the preface to the republished Pictures, it was a mistake, in so departing from his old pursuits, to have disturbed the old rela- tions between himself and his readers. It had, however, been "a brief mistake"; the departure had been only "for a moment"; and now those pursuits were "joyfully" to be resumed in Switzerland II RETREAT TO SWITZERLAND 18^6 Very pleasant were the earliest impressions of Switzerland with b his fuse letter closed. "The country is delightful in the extreme— as leafy, green, and shady, as England; full of deep glens ... T_ -.-1- 1 ilP '.-^^ 1 ^^K ; ^^M I^^H ' ^^H ■■ i^p 1 ^ 1 i i ■ flfl^Hn 1 1 ■■ ^^^^1 ^^^^1 i W^^m ^^^^^^1 3Bh ^^^^1 ' f '^ff* ^^^^H ','"■ ^H 494 The Life of Charles Dickens kj and branchy places (rather a Leigh Huntish expression), and bright with all sorts of flowers in profusion. It abounds in singing birds be- sides—very pleasant after Italy; and the moonlight on the lake is noble. Prodigious mountains rise up from its opposite shore (it is eight or nine miles across, at this point), and the Simplon, the St. Gothard, Mon : Blanc and all the Alpine wonders are piled there, in tremendous grandeur. The cultivation is uncommonly rich and profuse. There are all manner of walks, vineyard, green lanes, cornfields, and pastures full of hay. The general neatness is as remarkable as in England. There are no priests or monks in the streets, and the people appear to be industrious and thriving. French (and very intelligible and pleas- ant French) seems to be the universal language. I never saw so many booksellers' shops crammed within the same space, as in the steep up-and-down streets of L.ausanne." . . . In the heart of these things he was now to live 9nd work for at least six months; and, as the love of nature was as much a passion with him in his intervals of leisure, as the craving fo.- crowds and streets when he was busy with the creatures of his fancy, no man was better qualified to enjoy what was thus open to him from his little farm Regular evening walks of nine or ten miles were named in the next letter (22 June) as having been begun; and thoughts of his books were already stirring in him. "An odd shadowy undefined idea is at work within me, that I could connect a great battlefield some- how with my little Christmas story. Shapeless visions of the repose and peace pervading it in after-time; with the corn and grass growing over the slain, and people singing at the plough; are so perpetually floating before me, that I cannot but think there may turn out to be something good in them when I see them more plainly. ... I want to get Four Numbers of the monthly book done here, and the Christ- mas book. If all goes well, and nothing changes, and I can accomplish this by the end of November, I shall run over to you in England for a few days with a light heart, and leave Roche to move the caravan to Paris in the meanwhile. It will be just the very point in the story when the life and crowd of that extraordinary place will come vividly to my assistance in writing." Such was his design and, though difficulties not now seen started up which he had a hard fight o get through, he managed to accomplish it. . . . Only a couple of weeks, themselves not idle ones, had passed over him when he made a dash at the beginning of his work; from which indeed he had only been detained so long by the non-arrival of a box despatched from London before his own departure, containing not his proper writing materials only, but certain quaint little bronze figures that thus early stood upon his desk, and were as much needed for the easy flow of his writing as blue ink or quill pens. "I have not been idle (28th of June) since I have been here, though at first I was 'kept out' of the big box as you know. I had a good deal to write for I^rd John about the Ragged Schools. I set to work and did that. A good deal for Miss Coutts, in reference to her charitable projects. I The Life of Charles Dickens 495 set to work and did that. Half of the children's New Testament to write, or pretty nearly. I set to work and did that. Next I cleared off the greater part of such correspondence as I had rashly pledged myself to; and then ... BEGAN DOMBEy! I performed this feat yesterday — only wrote the first slip — but there it is, and it is a plunge straight over head and ears into the story. . . . Besides all this, I have really gone with great vigour at the French, where I find myself greatly assisted by the Italian; and am subject to two descriptions of mental fits in reference to the Christmas book: one, of the suddenest and wildest enthusiasm; one, of solitary and anxious consideration. ... By the way, as I was unpacking the big box I took hold of a book, and said to 'Them,'— 'Now, whatever passage my thumb rests on, I shall take as having reference to my work.' It was Tristram Shandy, and opened at these words, 'What a work it is likely to turn out! Let us begin it!' " The same letter told me that he still inclined strongly to "the field of battle notion" for his Christmas volume, but was not as yet advanced in it; being curious first to see whether its capacity seemed to strike me at all. My only objection was to his adventure of opening two stories at once, of which he did not yet see the full danger; but for the moment the Christmas fancy was laid aside, and not resumed, except in passing allusions, until after the close of August, when the first two numbers of Domhey were done. The interval supplied fresh illustration of his life in his new home, not without much interest; and as I have shown what a pleasant social circle, "wonderfully friendly and hospitable to the last, already had grouped itself round him m Lausanne, and how full of matter to be heard and learned he found such institutions as its prison and blind school, the picture will receive attractive touches if I borrow from his letters written during this outset of Dombey some further notices as well as of general progress of his work, as of what was specially interesting and amusing to him at the time and of how the country and the people impressed him. In all of these his character will be found strongly marked. m 496 The Life of Charles Dickens 4 , ii f i 4 i. Ill SWISS PEOPLE AND SCENERY 1846 . . .Of the ordinary Swiss people he formed from the first a high opinion which everything during his stay among them con- firmed. He thought it the greatest injustice to call them "the Americans of th. Continent." In his first letters he said of the peasantry aU about Lausanne that they were as pleasant a people as need be. He never passed, on any of the roads, man. woman o? Child, without a salutation; and anything churlish or disigreeaWe he never noticed in them. "They have not," he continued, ''the sweet! ness and grace of the Italians, or the agreeable manners of the better specimens of French peasantry, but they are admirably educated the schools of this canton are extraordinarily good in every Httle village), and always prepared to give a civil and pleasant Answer 1 here is no greater mistake. ... ^ ^ «- answer. A letter of a little later date, describing a marriage on the farm gave some further comical illustration of the rifle-firing propensS of the Swiss, and had otherwise also whimsical touches of cKcer h?rZ^ ^u ^^"^'M People-a sister. I think-was married from here the other day It is wonderful to see how naturally the smalleS girls are interested m marriages. Katey and Mamey were asTxcited as If they were eighteen. Ine fondness of the Swiss for gunpowder on intereslmg occasions, is one of the drollest things. For three davs before, the farmer himself, in the midst of his virions agrLuUural duties plunged out of a little door near my windows, about onceTn every hour, and fired off a rifle. I thought he was shooting rats who were spoiling the vines; but he wac merely relieving hi! m nd it seemed on the subject of the approaching nuptials. All night a t'er- wards, he and a small circle of friends k?pt perpetually fttirV off guns under the casement of the bridaL chamber. A Bride is a\LZ drest here in black silk; but this bride wore merino of that cl/r observing to her mother when she bought it (the old lady is 82 and works on the farm), 'You know, mother. I am sure to wa/t mourning for you. soon; and the same gown will do.' " "mourning Meanwhile, day by day. he was steadily moving on with his first number; feeling sometimes the want of streets in an "extraordinarv nervousness it would be hardly possible to describe." that would come upon him after he had been writing all day; but ^11 otherThnes findmg the repose of the place very favourable to industry "I am writing slowly at first of course" (5 July), "but I hope I shall hav^ fimshed the first number in the course of a fortnight at ZiLTr nave done the first chapter, and begun another. ... '" """ " The Life of Charles Dickens 497 le first a lem con- em "the I of the a people 5man, or ;eable he le sweet- ie better ;ducated sry little answer. he farm, Densities i^'^racter. ed from smallest excited wder on ee days cultural once in a-ts who nind, it t after- ting off always colour, 82, and turning lis first rdinary would r times 1 am II have hest. I ... But when the fourth chapter yet was incomplete, _ 2 could repress no longer the desire to write to me of what he was doing (18 July). "I think the general idea of Dombey is interesting and new, and has great material in it. But I don't like to discuss it with you till you have read number one, for fear I should spoil its effect When done— about Wednesday or Thursday, please God— I will send it in two days' posts, seven letters each day. If you have it set at once (I am afraid you couldn't read it, otherwise than in print) I know you will impress on B. & E. the necessity of the closest secrecy. The very name getting out, would be ruinous. The points for illustration, and the enormous care required, make me excessively anxious.' The man for Dombe> , if Browne could see him, the class man to a T, is Sir A E , of D 's. Great pains will be necessary with Miss Tox. The Toodle Family should not be too much caricatured, because of Polly. I should like Browne to think of Susan Nipper, who will not be wanted in the first number. After the second number, they will all be nine or ten years older; but this will not involve much change in the characters, except in the children and Miss Nipper. What a brilliant thing to be telling you all these names so familiarly, when you know nothing about 'em ! I quite enjoy it. By the by, I hope you may like the introduction of Solomon Gills. I think he lives in a good sort of house. ..." His letter (2 August) described his own first real experience of mountain travel. "I begin my letter to-night, but only begin, for we returned from Chamonix in time for dinner just now, and are pretty considerably done up. We went by a mountian pass not often crossed by ladies, called the Col de Balme, where your imagination may picture Kate and Georgy on mules /or ten hotirs at a stretch -iding up and down the most frightful precipices. . . . You may suppose that the mule-travelling is pretty primitive. Each person takes a carpet-bag strapped on the mule behind himself or herself: and that is all the baggage that can be carried. A guide, a thorough-bred moun':aineer, walks all the way, leading the lady's mule; I say lady's par excellence, in compliment to Kate; and all the rest struggle on as they please. The cavalcade stops at a lone hut for an hour and a half in the middk of the day, and lunches brilliantly on whatever it can get. Going by that Col de Balme pass, you climb up and up and up for five hours and more, and look — from a mere unguarded ledge of path on the side of the precipice — into such awful valleys, that at last you are firm in the belief that j'-ou have got everything in the world, and that there can be nothing earthly overhead. ... I was very anxious to make the expedition to what is called 'The Garden': a green spot covered with wild flowers, lying across the Mer de Glace, and among the most awful mountains: but I could find no Englishman at the hotels who was similarly disposed, and the Brave [i.e. Roche, his servant] wouldn't ^o. No, sir! He gave in point blank (having been horribly blown in a climbing excursion the day before), and couldn't stand it. He is too heavy for such work, unquestionably. In : f» .il I 498 The Life of Charles Dickens :>i i ■ > t I* ^ ' i I all other respects. I think he has exceeded himself on this journey and if you could have seen him riding a very small mule up a road exactly like the broken stairs of Rochester Castle, with a brandy bottle slung over his shoulder, a small pie in his hat, a roast fowl lookmg out of his pocket, and a mountain staff of six feet long carried crosswise on the saddle before him, you'd have said so He was (next to me) the admiration of Chamonix, but he utterly quenched me on the road." ^ On the road as they returned there had been a small adventure the day before this letter was written. Dickens was jingling slowly up the Tete Noire pass (his mule having thirty-seven bells on its head) riding at the moment quite alone, when— "an Englishman came bolting out of a little chaletain, a most inaccessible and extraordinary place, and said with great glee, "There has been an accident here sir i' I had been thinking of anything else you please! and, having no reason to suppose him an Englishman except his language which went for nothing in the confusion, stammered out a reply in French and stared at him, in a very damp shirt and trousers, as he stared at me in a similar costume. On his repeating the announcement I began to have a glimmering of common sense; and so arrived at a know- ledge of the fact that a German lady had been thrown from her mule and had broken her leg, at a short distance off, and had found her way in great pain to that cottage, where the Englishman, a Prussian and a Frenchman, had presently come up; and the Frenchman by extraordinary good fortune, was a surgeon! They were all from Chamonix, and the three latter were walking in company It was quite charming to see how attentive they were. The lady was from Lausanne; where she had come from Frankfort to make excursions with her two boys, who are at the college here, during the vacation bhe had no other attendants, and the boys were crying and very frightened. The Englishman was in the full glee of having just cut up one white dress, two chemises, and three pocket-handkerchiefs for bandages; the Frenchman had just set the leg skilfully the Prussian had scoured a neighbouring wood for some men to carry her forward; and they were all at it, behind the hut, making a sort of hand-barrow on which to bear her. Wheij it was constructed she was strapped upon it; had her poor head covered over with a handker- chief, and was carried away; and we all went on in company: Kate and Georgy consoling and tending the sufferer, who was very cheerful but had lost her husband only a year." With the same delightfui observation, and missing no touch of kindly character that might give each actor his place in the little scene, the sequel is described- but It does not need to add more. It was hoped that by means of relays of men at Martigny the poor lady might have been carried on some twenty miles, m the cooler evening, to the head of the lake and sr have been got into the steamer; but she was too exhausted to be borne beyond the inn, and there she had to remain until joined bv relatives from Frankfort. ... ■* .. of The Life of Charles Dickens 499 IV SKETCHES CHIEFLY PERSONAL 1846 Some sketches from the life in his pleasantest vein now claim to be taken from the same series of letters; and I will prefix one or two less important notices, for the most part personal also, that have char- acteristic mention of his opinions in them: — "I am very sorry to hear of Haydon's death. If any subscription be proposed, put me down for five pounds." An unfortunate son of Leigh Hunt died also just at this time, and I preserve the allusion to him for the opportunity of explaining it. "I quite shuddered at John Hunt's having applied to that generous duke. It went against the grain with me, sorely, after the story of the two hundred pounds. I don't know v/hat I should have done, if I had been Hunt." The duke was the lat'^ Duke of Devonshire; and the story was this. During the delay of the promised production of Leigh Hunt's first play, he asked the duke for ;^20o as a loan for two years; and the duke replied by taking the money himself to Hunt's house in Edwardes Square. On the last day of the second year within which repayment was promised, Hunt sent back the ^200; and was startled, the morning after, by another visit from the duke, who pressed upon him its reacceptance as a gift. He added that there would be no obligation, for he was himself Hunt's debtor. He was ill when he asked for the loan, and it had done him good to comply with the request. Never but once before had borrowed money ever come back to him, and he should always retain the sense of pleasure which its return had occasioned. "He remained grateful." It is a charming story, and hard to say who shows in it to the greatest advantage. Hunt or the duke. ... [In another letter] "... There are two old ladies (English) living here who may serve me for a few lines of gossip — as I have intended they should, over and over again, but I have always for- gotten it. There were originally four old ladies, sisters, but two of them have faded away in the course of eighteen years, and withered by the side of John Kemble in the cemetery. They are very little and very skinny; and each of them wears a row of false curls, like little rolling-pins, so low upon her brow, that there is no forehead; nothing above the eyebrows but a deep horizontal wrinkle, and then the curls. They live upon some small annuity. For thirteen years they have wanted very much to move to Italy, as the eldest old lady says the climate of this part of Switzerland doesn't agree with her, and preys upon her spirits; but they have never been able to go, because of the difficulty of moving 'the books.' This tremendous library ii i 3 500 The Life of Charles D.ckens ■t. r •; i belonged once upon a time to the father of these old ladies and comprises about fifty volumes. I have never been able to see ' /.at they are because one of the old ladies ahva.s sits before th'nr but they look, outside, like very old backganmon boar£ 'Ke two deceased sis ers died in the firm persu- .^ion that this p^ecio^s property could never be got overtheSimpIon without some giSr?Mc sisters live and will die also, in the same belief. I met the eldest (evicenly drooping) yesterday, and recommended her to try Genoa She looked shrewdly at the snow that closes up the mountain pros^ pect just now, and said when the spring was quite setT andThe trv thnt ' V" -IT'' ^""^^ V^^ ^"^''^ ^^" «P^" «^^- woula'cer" ainl^ try that place, if they could devise any plan, in the course of the winter, for moving 'the books.' The whole library wiH be sr?ld by auction here, when they are both dead, for about a napoleon and """tUu^A Tr^'" '? " ""'W ^°"^" ^^ t^° J°"^"^y« with a bask '• The ast letter sent me before he fell upon his self-appointed • c-k for Christmas conrained a delightful account of the trip to he o'^elt St. Bernard. It was dated on 6 September. th7crZ''f!'%''^''^''^'^''^I clearing, we started off last Tuesday for the Great St. Bernard, returning here on Friday afternoon The party consisted of eleven people and two servants-Haldimand Mr Tavl^/^K 7^"^""^ ^"' ''V'^''''' ^''- ^"d ^^^^- "^'^'^on, two Ladies cWrfnl ; ^'"'^r- ""''i ^- ^^^" ^^^^^ wonderfully unanimous and tion IwhnT '"'T ^'""^ ^"'? ^y '^^" ''''■'''''' f«""d at its destina- tion a whole omnibus provided by the Brave (who went on in advance everywhere ; rode therein to Bex; found two large carriages ready to take us to Martigny; slept there; and proceeded up the mountaiifon mules next day. Although the St. Bernard convent is. as I da?e say you know, the highest inhabited spot but one in the world the asceS IS extremely gradual and uncommonly easy: really presenting no thfont^'' 1 "'^ until within the last league,\vhen t^e'^Lscent Tying through a place called the valley of desolation, is very awf d and Sfnf sn:;:■"Tho^"'' ";^"'^^^'' '°^^^°"^^ by ^cattei-yrocks and melting snow. The convent is a most extraordinary place, full of great vaulted passages, divided from each other with iVon gratings and presentmg a series of the most astonishing little dormitories' where the windows are so small (on account of the cold and sno"v ' that it is as much as one can do to get one's head out of them Here we sdept: supping, thirty strong, in a rambling room with a great wood-fire in it set apart for that purpose; with a grim monk ^[n a high black sugar-loaf hat with a great knob at the top of it carv^g the dishes At five o'clock in the morning the chapel bell rang in SI dismallest way for matins: and I, lying in%ed closj to the chape" and bemg awakened by the solemn organ and the chaunting. thought for a momenr I had died in the night and passed into the unknownVorld 1 wish to God you could see that olace. A preat bollo"' -n '-^c top oi a range of dreadful mountains; fenced in by riven 'ro^cks of dies, and see a'-iEt hem; but The two precious jgiganUc cmaining ]ie eldest y Genoa, ain pros- and the certainly se of the ! sold by pon; and basket.'* ilcd tcisk he Great sday for on. The and, Mr. 3 Ladies ous and destina- advance ready to itain on lare say c; ascent ting no it, lying fill and cks and full of ratings; litories, snow), n. Here a great ik, in a :arving I in the »el, and ght for world, on the )cks of The Life of Charles Dickens 501 everysLap^ r.nd colour: and in the midst, a black lake, with phantom clouds perpetually stalking over it. Peaks, and points, and plains of eternal ice c..:d snow, bounding the view, and shutting out the world on every s.de: the Jake reflecting nothing: and no human figure in the scene. Ttc '.ir so fine, that it is difficult to breathe without feeling out of oreath; ;-.nd tho cold so exquisitely thin and sharp that it is not [-J be c.escnoed. Nothing of life or living interest in the picture, but the grc 7 dull walls of the convent. No vegetation of any sort or kind. Nothing growing, nothing stirring. Everything iron-bound, and frozen up. Beside the convent, in a little outhouse with a grated iron door which you may unbolt for yourself, are the bodies of people found in the snow who have never been claimed and are withering away— not laid down, or stretched out, but standing up, in corners and against walls; some erect and horribly human, with distinct expressions on the faces; some sunk down on their knees; some drop- ping over on one side; some tumbled down altogether, and presenting a heap of skulls and fibrous dust. There is no other decay in that atmosphere; and there they remain during the short days and the long nights, the only human company out of doors, withering away by grains, and holding ghastly possession of the mountain where they died. "It is the most distinct and individual place I have seen, even in this transcendent country. But, for the Saint Jiernard holy fathers and convent in themselves, I am sorry to say that they are a piece of as sheer humbug as we ever learnt to believe in, in our young days. Trashy French sentiment and the dogs (of which, by the by, there are only three remaining) have done it all. They are a lazy'set of fellows; not over fond of going out themselves; employing servants to clear the road (which has not been important or much used as a pass these hundred years); rich; and driving a good trade in Innkeep- mg: the convent being a common tavern in everything but the sign. No charge is made for their hospitality, to be sure; but you are shown to a box in the chapel, where everybody puts in more than could, with any show of face, be charged for the entertainment; and from this the establishment derives a right good income. As to the self- sacrifice of living up there, they are obliged to go there young, it is true, to be inured to the climate: but it is an infinitely more exciting and various life than any other convent can offer; with constant change and company through the v^rhole summer; with a hospital for invalids down in the valley, which affords another change; and with an annual begging-journey to Geneva and this place and all the places round for one brother or other, which affords further change. The brother who carved at our supper could speak some English, and had just had Pickwick given him !— what a humbug he will think me when he tries to understand it ! If I had had any other book of mine with me, I would have given it him, that I might have had some chance of being intelligible. ..." 502 The Life of Charles Dickens [After working for some time at Lausanne, Dickens proceeded to Geneva.] He found it to be a very good place; pleasantly reporting himself as quite dismayed at first by the sight of gas in it, and as trembling at the noise in its streets, which he pronounced to be fully equal to the uproar of Richmond in Surrey; but deriving from it some soit of benefit both in health and in writing. So far his trip had been suc- cessful, though he had to leave the place hurriedly to welcome his English visitors to Rosemont. One social and very novel experience he had in his hotel, however, the jiight before he left, which may be told before he hastens back to Lausanne; for it could hardly now offend anyone even if the names were given. "And now, sir, I will describe, modestly, tamely, literally, the visit to the r,mall select circle which I promised should make your hair stand on e.id. In our hotel were a Mother and a Daughter, who came to the Peschiere shortly before we left it, and who have a deep admiration for your humble servant the inimitable B. They are both very clever. Daughter, extremely well-informed in languages living and dead, books, and gossip; very pretty; with two little children, and not yet five and twenty. Mother, plump, fresh, and rosy; matronly, both full of spirits and good looks. Nothing would serve them but we must dine with them; and accordingly, on Friday at six, we went down to their room. I knew them to be rather odd. For instance, I have knovm the Mother, /«// dressed, walk alone through the streets'of Genoa, the squalid Italian by-streets, to the Governor's soiree; and announce herself at the palace of state, by knocking at the door. I have also met the Daughter full dressed, without any cap or bonnet, walking a mile to the opera, with all sorts of jingling jewels about her, beside a sedan chair in which sat enthroned her mama. Conse- quently, I was not surprised at such little sparkles in the conversa- tion (from the young lady) as 'Oh God what a sermon we had here last Sunday!' 'And did you ever read such infernal trash as Mrs. Gore's?' — and the like. Still, but for Kate and Georgy (who were decidedly in the way, as we agreed afterwards), I should have thought it all very funny; and, as it was, I threw the ball back again, was mighty free and easy, made some rather broad jokes, and was highly applauded. 'You smoke, don't you?' said the young ladv. in a pause of this kind of conversation. 'Yes,' I said, 'I generally take a cigar after dinner when I am alone.' 'I'll give you a good 'un,' said she, 'when we go upstairs.' Well sir, in due course we went jpstairs, and there we were joined by an American lady residing in the same hotel, who looked like what we call in old England 'a reg'lar Bunter' — fluffy face (rouged); considerable development of figure; one gvoggy eye; blue satin dress made low with short sleeves, and shoes of the same. Also a daughter; face likewise fluffy; figure likewise developed; dress like- wise low, with short sleeves, and shoes of the same; and one eye not y«?v vv!^t««ixjf £^iV55j-, t^uL oOiiig Lu uc. xi.uii;iicaii lauy raamea at six- teen; American daughter sixteen now, often mistaken for sisters, etc. The Life of Charles Dickens 503 ceded to I himself nbling at lal to the } SOit of )een suc- ;ome his lowever, 1 back to e names literally, ike your ter, who e a deep ire both es living ren, and atronly, 1 but we ive went tance, I treets of ree; and door. I bonnet, Is about . Conse- )nversa- lad here as Mrs. tio were thought lin, was s highly a pause far after v^hen we here we el, who iffy face /e; blue le. Also 3ss like- eye not i at six- ers, etc. When that was over, the younger of our entertainers brought out a cigar box. and gave me a cigar, made of negrohead she said, which would quell an elephant in six whiffs. The box was full of cigarettes — good large ones, made of pretty strong tobacco; I always smoke them here, and used to smoke them at Genoa, and I knew them well. When I lighted my cigar. Daughter lighted hers at mine; leaned against the mantelpiece, in conversation with me; put out her stomach, folded her arms, and with her pretty face cocked up sideways and her cigarette smoking away like a Manchester cotton mill, laughed, and talked, and smoked, in the most gentlemanly manner I ever beheld. Mother immediately lighted her cigar; American lady immediately lighted hers; and in five minutes the room was a cloud of smoke, with us' four in the centre pulling away bravely, while American lady related stories of her 'Hookah' upstairs, and described different kinds of pipes. But even this was not all. For presently two Frenchmen came in, with whom, and the American lady, Daughter sat down to whist. The Frenchmen smoked of course (they were really modest gentlemen and seemed dismayed), and Daughter played for the next hour or two with a cigar continually in her mouth — ^never out of it. She certainly smoked six or eight. Mother gave in soon — I think she only did it out of vanity. American lady had been smoking all the morning. I took no more; and Daughter and the Frenchmen had it all to them- selves. "Conceive this in a great hotel, with not only their own servants, but half a dozen waiters coming constantly in and out ! I showed no atom of surprise, but I nevi. . was so surprised, so ridiculously taken aback, in my life; for in all my experience of 'ladies' of one kind and another, I never saw a woman — not a basket woman or a gipsy — smoke, before!" He lived to have larger and wider experience, but there was enough to startle as well as amuse him in the scene des- cribed. But now Saturday is come; he has hurried back for the friends who are on their way to his cottage; and on his arrival, even before they have appeared, he writes to tell me his better news of himself and his work. "In the breathless interval" (Rosemont, 3 October) "between our return from Geneva and the arrival of the Talfourds (expected in an hour or two), I cannot do better than write to you. For I think you will be well pleased if I anticipate my promise, and Monday, at the same time. I have been greatly better at Geneva, though I am still made uneasy by occasional giddiness and headache: attributable, I have not the least doubt, to the absence of streets. There is an idea here, too, that people are occasionally made despondent and sluggish in their spirits by this great mass of still water, Lake Leman. At any rate I have been very uncomfortable: at any rate I am, I hope, greatly better: and (lastly) at any rate I hope and trust, now, the Christmas book will come in due course!! I have had three very good days' work at Geneva, and I trust I may finish the second ;■: -i 504 The Life of Charles Dickens part (the third is the shortest) by this day week. Whenever I finish It. I will send you Lhe first two together. I do not think they can begin to Illustrate it. until the third arrives; for it is a single-minded ston,- as It were, and an artist shoukl know the end: which I don't think very hkely. unless he reads it." Then, aftrr relating a superhuman I A^ i^? ^^ makmg to lodge his visitors in his doll's house ("I didn t like the idea of turning them out at night. It is so dark in these lanes and groves, when the moon's not bright"), he sketched for me what he possibly might, and really did, accomplish. He would bv great efifort finish the small book on the 20th: would fly to Geneva lor a week to work a little at Domhey, if he felt "pretty sound" in any case would finish his numb.-^r three by the loth of November- and on that day would start for Paris: "so that, instead of resting unprcfitably here. I shall be using my interval of idleness to make the journey and get into a new house, and shall hope so to put a pmch of Palt on the tail of the sliding number in advance. . I am horrified at the idea of getting the blues (and bloodshots) again " 1 hough I did not then know how gravely ill he had been. I was fain to remind him that it was bad economy to make business out of rest Itself; but I received prompt confirmation that all was falling out as he wished. The Talfourds stayed two days: "and I think they were very happy. He was in his best aspect; the manner so well known to us, not the less lovable for being laughable; and if you could have seen him going round and round the coach that brought them as a preliminary to paying the voiturier to whom he couldn't speak' in a currency he didn't understand, you never would have forgotteA it " His iriends left Lausanne on the 5th; and five days later he sent me two-thirds of the manuscript of his Christmas book. THREE MONTHS IH PARIS 1846-7 He had begun his third number of Dombey on 26 October on the 4th of the following month he was half through it. on the 7th he was m "the agonies" of its last chapter, and on the 9th, one day before that proposed for its com-letion, all was done. This was marvellously rapid work, after what else he had undergone; but within a week Monday the iGth being the day for departure, they were to strike' their tents, and troubled and sad were the few days thus left him for preparation and farewell. He included in his leave-taking his deaf dumb, and blind friends- and fo uqf i-*'-^ ^-..r., >,^-~.^i i * yet more terribly down in the mouth' ' at taking leave of his hearing The Life of Charles Dickens 505 speaking, and seeing friends. "I ihall see you soon, please God, and that sets all to rights. But I don't believe *here are inany dots on the map of the world where we shall have left such affectionate remembrances behind us, as in Lausanne. It was quite miserable this last night, when we left them at Haldimand's.'' He shall himself describe how they travelled post to Paris, occu- pying five days. "We got through the jcirney charmingly, though not quite so quickly as ,ve hoped. The children as good as usual, and even Skittles jolly to the last. That name has long superseded Samp- son Brass, by the by. I call him so, from something skittle-playing and public-housey in his countenance. We have been up at five every morning, and on the road before seven. We were three carriages: a sort of waggon, with a cabriolet attached, for the luggage; a ram- shackle villainous old swing upon wheels (hired at Geneva), for the children; and for ourselves, that travelling chariot which I was so kind as to bring here for sale. It was very cold indeed crossing the Jura nothing but fog and frost; but when we were out of Switzer- land and across the French frontier, it became warmer, and con- tinued so. We stopped at between six and seven each evening; had two rather queer inns, wild French country inns; but the rest good. They were three hours and a half examining the luggage at the fron- tier custom-house — atop of a mountain, in a hard and biting frost; where Anne and Roche had sharp work I assure you, and the latter insisted on volunteering the most astonishing and unnecessary lies about my books, for the mere pleasure of deceiving the officials. When we were out of the mountain country, we came at a good pace, but were a day late in getting to our hotel here." They were in Paris when that was written; at the Hotel Brighton; which they had reached in the evening of Friday, 20 November. No man enjoyed brief residence in a hotel more than Dickens, but ''several tons of luggage, other tons of servants, and other tons of children" are not desirable accompaniments to this kind of life; and his first day in Paris did not close before he had offered for an "eligible mansion." That same Saturday night he took a "colossal" walk about the city, of which the brilliancy and brightness almost frightened him; and among other things that attracted his notice was "rather a good book announced in a bookseller's window as Les Mystdres de Londres par Sir TroUopp. Do you know him?" A countryman better known had given him earlier greeting. "The first man who took hold of me in the street, immediately outside this door, was Bruffum in his check trousers, and without the proper number of buttons on his shirt, who was going away this morning, he told me, but coming back .n two months, when we would go and dine — at some place known to him and fame." Next day he took another long walk about the streets, and lost himself fifty times. This was Sunday, and he hardly knew what to say of it, as he saw it there and then. The bitter observance of that day he always sharply resisted, believing a little rational enjoyment 5o6 The Life of Charles Dickens to be not opposed to either rest or religion; but here was another matter. "The dirty churches, and the clattering c. rts and waggons, and the open shops (I don't think I passed fifty shut up, in all my strollings in and out), and the work-a-day dresses and drudgeries, are not comfortable. Open theatres and so forth I am well used to, of course, by this time; but so much toil and sweat on what one would like to see, apart from religious observances, a sensible holiday, is painful." The date of his letter was 22 November, and it had three post- scripts. The first, "Monday afternoon," told me a house was taken; that, unless the agreement should break off or any unforeseen fight between Roche and the agent ("a French Mrs. Gamp"), I was to address him at No. 48 Rue de Courcelles, Faubourg, St. Honor6; and that he would merely then advert to the premises as in his belief the "most ridiculous, extraordinary, unparalleled, and preposterous" in the whole world; being something between a baby-house, a "shades." a haunted castle, and a mad kind of clock. "They belong to a Mar- quis Castellan, and you will be ready to die of laughing when you go over them." The second P.S. declared that his lips should be scaled till I beheld for myself. "By Heaven it is not to be imagined by the mind of man!" The third P.S. closed the letter. "One room is a tent. Another room is a grove Another room is a scene at the Victoria. The upstairs rooms are like fanlights over street-doors. The nurseries — but no, no, no, no more! . . ." His following letter nevertheless sent more, even in the form of an additional protestation that never till I saw it should the place be described. "I will merely observe that it .3 fifty yards long, and eigh- teen feet high, and that the bedrooms are exactly like opera-boxes. It has its little courtyard and garden, and porter's house and cordon to open the door, and so forth: and is a Paris inansion in little. There is a gleam of reason in the drawing-room. Being a gentleman's house, and not one furnished to let, it has some very curious things in it; some of the '^ddest things you ever beheld in your life; and an infinity of easy chairs and sofas. . . . Bad weather. It is snowing hard. There is not a door or window here — but that's nothing I there's not a door or window in all Paris — that shuts; not a chink in all the billions of trillions of chinks in the city that can be stopped to keep the wind out. And the cold ! — but you shall judge for yourself; and also of this preposterous dining-room. The invention, sir. of Henry Bulwer, who when he had executed it (he used to live here), got frightened at what he had done, as well he might, and went away. . . . The Brave called me aside on Saturday night, and showed me an improvement he had effected in the decorative way. 'Which,' he said, 'will very much s'prise Mis'r Fors'er when he come.' You are to be deluded into the belief that there is a perspective of chambers twenty miles in length, opening from the drawing-room. ..." I had frequent rcporfc of his progress with his famous fifth number, on the completion of which I was to join him. The day at one time The Life of Charles Dickens 507 seemed doubtful. "It would be miserable to have to work while you were here. Still I make such sudden starts, and am so possessed of what I am going to do, that the fear may prove to be quite ground- less, and if any alteration would trouble you, let the 13th stand at all hazards." The cold he described as so intense, and the price of fuel so enormous, that though the house was not half warmed ("as you'll say, when you feel it"), it cost him very near a pound a day. Begging- letter writers had found out "Monsieur Dickens, le romancier c616bre," and waylaid him at the door and in the street as numerously as in London: their distinguishing peculiarity being that they were nearly all of them "Chevaliers de la Garde Imp6riale de sa Majest6 Napol6on le Grand," and that their letters bore immense seals with coats of arms as large as five-shilling pieces. His friends the Wat- sons passed New Year's Day with him on their way to Rockingham from Lausanne, leaving that country covered with snow and the Bise blowing cruelly over it, but describing it as nothing to the cold of Paris. On the day that closed the old year he had gone into the Morgue and seen an old man with grey head lying there. "It seemed the strangest thing in the world that it should have been necessary to take any trouble to stop such a feeble, spent, exhausted morsel of life. It was just dusk, when I went in; the place was empty; and he lay there, all alone, like an impersonation of the wintry eigliteen hundred and forty-six. ... I find I am getting inimitable, so I'll stop." The time for my visit [to him at Paris] having come, I had grateful proof of the minute and thoughtful provision characteristic of him in everything. Dinner had been ordered to the second at Boulogne, a place in the walle-poste taken, and these and other services annouiiccd in a letter, which, by way of doing its part also in the kindly work of preparation, broke out into French. He never spoke that language very well, his accent being somehow defective; but he practised him- self into writing it with remarkable ease and fluency. "I have written to the Hotel des Bains at Boulogne to send on to Calais and take your place in the malle-poste. ... Of course you know that you'll be assailed with frightful shouts all along the two lines of ropes, from all the touters in Boulogne, and of course you'll pass on like the princess who went up the mountain after the talking bird; but don't forget quietly to single out the Hotel des Bains commissionnaire. The follow- ing circumstances will then occur. My experience is more recent than yo'urs, and I will throw them into a dramatic form You are filtered into the little office, where there are some soldiers; and a gentleman with a black beard and a pen and ink sitting behind a counter. Barbe Noire (to the lord of L. L F.). Monsieur, votre passeport. Monsieur. Monsieur, le voici ! Barbe Noire. Ou allez-vous, monsieur? Monsieur. Monsieur, je vais k Paris. Barbe Noire. Quand allez-vous partir, monsieur? Monsieur. Monsieur, je vais partir aujourd'hui. Avec la malle-postc. Barbe Noire. C'est bien. (To Gendarme.) Laissez sortir monsieur ! Gendarme. Par ici, monsieur, s'il vous plait. Le gendarme 5o8 The Life of Chailes Dickens ouvert une trds petite porte. Monsieur se trouve subitement entourd tous les gamms, agents, commissionnaires, portcurs, et polissons en g6n6ral. de Boulogne, qui s'elancent sur lui, en poussant des oris epouvantables. Monsieur esc, pour le moment, tout-4-fait effray6 boulevers6. Mais monsieur reprend ses forces et dit, de L .ute voix' Le Commissionnaire de I'Hotel des Bains!' Un petit homme (s'avan- <;ant rapidejnent, et en souriant doucement). Me voici monsieur Monsieur Fors Tair, nest-ce pas? . . . Mors . . . Mors monsieur se prom^ne k I'Hotel des Bams, ou monsieur trouvera qu'un petit salon particuher, en haut, est deja prepare pour sa reception, et que son diner est dej^i commande. grace aux soins du brave Courier, a midi et denu .... Monsieur mangera son diner prds du feu, avec beaucoup de plaisir, et i' boirera de vin rouge k la sante de Monsieur de Boze et sa famille interessante et aimable. La malle-poste arrivera au bureau de la poste aux lettres a deux heures ou peut-etrc un peu plus tard. Mais monsieur chargera le commissionnaire d'y I'accompagner de bonne heure, car c'est beaucoup mieux de I'attendre que de la perdre. La malle-poste arrivce, monsieur prendra sa place, aussi comfortable- ment qu'il le pourra, et il y restera jusqu'a son arrivee au bureau de a poste aux lettres a Paris. Parceque. le convoi {train) n'est pas 1 affaire de monsieur, qui gardera sa place dans la malle-poste, sur le chemm de fer, et apres le chemin de fer, jusqu'il se trouve k la basse- cour du bureau de la poste aux lettres a Paris, ou il trouvera une voi- ture qui a 6te depeche de la Rue de Courcelles, quarante-huit Mais monsieur aura la bont6 d'observer— Si le convoi arriverait k Amiens aprds le depart du convoi a miniit, il faudrait y rester jusqu'a 1 arnvee d'un autre convoi a trois heures moins un quart. En attend- ant, monsieur pent rester au buffet {yefreshment room), ou Ton peut toujours trouver un bon feu, et du cafe rhaud, et de tr^s bonnes choses a boire et k manger, pendant toute la nuit.— Est-ce que monsieur comprend parfaitement toutes ces rdgles?— Vive le Roi des Francaisi Roi de la nation la plus grande, et la plus noble, et la plus extra- ordmau-ement merveilleuse, du monde ! A bas les Anglais ! " Charles Dickens, "Fran9ais naturalise, et Citoyen de Paris." We passed a fortnight together, and cro\v'dcd into it more than might seem possible to such a narrow space. One day we visited in the Rue du Bac the sick and ailing Chateaubriand, whom we thought like Basil Montagu; found ourselves at the other extreme of opinion m the sculpture-room of David d'Angers; and closed that day at the house of Victor Hugo, by whom Dickens was received with infinite courtesy and grace. The great writer then occupied a floor in a noble corner-house in the Place Royale, the old quarter of Ninon I'Enclos and the people of the Regency, of whom the gorgeous tapestries, the painted ceilings, the wonderful carvings and old golden furniture, mc.iidmg a canopy of state out of some palace of the middle age, quamtly and grandly reminded us. He was, himself, however, the best The Life of Charles Dickens 509 thing we saw; and I find it difficult to associate the attitudes and aspect in which the world has lately wondered at him, with the sober grace and self-possessed quiet gravity of that night of twenty-five years ago. Just then Louis Philippe had ennobled him, but the man's nature was written noble. Rather under the middle size, of compact close- buttoned-up figure, with ample dark hair falling loosely over his close-shaven face, I never saw upon any features so keenly intellectual such a soft and sweet gentility, and certainly never heard the French language spoken with the picturesque distinctness given to it by Victor Hugo. He talked of his childhood in Spain, and of his father having been Governor of the Tagus in Napoleon's wars; spoke warmly of the English people and their literature; declared his preference for melody and simplicity over the music then fashionable at the Con- servatoire; referred kindly to Ponsard, laughed at the actors who had murdered his tragedy at the Odeon, and sympathised with the dramatic venture of Dumas. To Dickens he addressed very charming flattery, in the best taste; and my friend long remembered the enjoy- ment of that evening. . . . Our last talk before I quitted Paris, after dinner at the Embassy, was of the danger underlying all this, and of the signs also visible everywhere of the Napoleon-worship which the Orleanists themselves had most favoured. Accident brought Dickens to England a fortnight later, when again v/e met together, at Gore House, the self-contained reticent man whose doubtful inheritance was thus rapidly preparing to fail to him. The accident was the having underwritten his number of Dombey by two pages, which there was not time to supply otherwise than by coming to London to write them. This was done accordingly; but another, greater trouble followed. He had hardly returned to Paris when his eldest son, whom I had brought to England with me and placed in the house of Doctor Major, then headmaster of King's College School, was attacked by scarlet fever; and this closed prenia- turely Dickens's residence in Paris. But though he and his wife at once came over, and were folIoM^ed after some days by the children and their aunt, the isolation of the little invalid could not so soon be broken through. His father at last saw him, nearly a month before the rest, in a lodging in Albany Street, where his grandmother, Mrs. Hogarth, had devoted herself to the charge of him; and an incident of the visit, which amused us all very much, will not unfitly introduce the subject that waits me in my next chapter. An elderly charwoman employed about the place had shown so much sympathy in the family trouble, that Mrs. Hogarth specially told her of the approaching visit, and who it was that was coming to the sick-room. "Lawk ma'am !" she said. "Is the young gentleman upstairs the son of the man that put together Dombey V Reassured upon this point, she explained her question by declaring that she never thought there was a man that could have put together Dombey. Being pressed further as to what her notion was of this mystery of a I'i J 510 The Life of Charles Dickens Dombey (for it was known she could not read), it turned out that she lodged at a snuff-shop kept by a person named Douglas, where there were several other lodgers; and that on the first Monday of every month there was a Tea, and the landlord read the month's number of Dombey, those only of the lodgers who subscribed to the tea partaking of that luxury, but all having the benefit of the reading; and the impression produced on the old charwoman revealed itself in the remark with which she closed her account of it. "Lawk ma'am! I thought that three or four men must have put together Dombey V Dickens thought there was something of a compliment in this, and was not ungrateful. I II III IV V VI w at she there every ber of :aking id the n the am! I ibeyV 3, and BOOK SIXTH AT THE SUMMIT 1847-52. ^T. 35-40 I. Splendid Strolling. II. Seaside Holidays. III. Christmas Books closed and " Household Words IV. In Aid of Literature and Art. V. Last Years in Devonshire Terrace. VI. "David Copperfield." begun. 5" h > m Dev Duk 18 A Smil the ; rega whoi kind mon or I intei in th agn Th state John list f thou mear as mi to en ing t auth( impo repre othei with chest to b( assoc Mr. J IVIr. Lewe Dick* Lei my f] some SPLENDID STROLLING 1847-52 Devonshire Terrace remaining still in possession of Sir James Duke, a house was taken in Chester Place, Regent's Park, where, on 18 April, Dickens's fifth son, to whom he gave the name of Sydney Smith Haldimand, was born. Exactly a month before, he had attended the funeral at Highgate of his publisher Mr. William Hall, his old regard for whom had survived the recent temporary cloud, and with whom he had the association as well of his first success, as of much kindly intercourse not forgotten at this sad time. Of the summer months that followed, the greater part was passed by him at Brighton or Broadstairs; and the chief employment of his leisure, in the intervals of Dombey, was the management of an enterprise originating in the success of our private play, of which the design was to benefit a great man of letters. The purpose and name had hardly been announced, when, with the statesman-like attention to literature and its followers for which Lord John Russell has been eccentric among English politicians, a civil- list pension of two hundred a year was granted to Leigh Hunt; but though this modified our plan so far as to strike out of it performances meant to be given in London, so much was still thought necessary as might clear off past liabilities, and enable a delightful writer better to enjoy the easier fuic.*e that had at last been opened to him. Reserv- ing therefore anything realised beyond a certain sum for a dramatic author of merit, Mr. John Poole, to whom help had become also important, it was proposed to give, on Leigh Hunt's behalf, two representations of Ben Jonson's comedy, one at Manchester and the other at Liverpool, to be varied by different farces in each place; and with a prologue of Talfourd's which Dickens was to deliver in Man- chester, while a similar address by Sir Edward Bulwer Lytton was to be spoken by me in Liverpool. Among the artists and writers associated in the scheme were Mr. Frank Stone, Mr. Augustus Egg, Mr. John Leech, and Mr. George Cruikshank; Mr. Douglas Jerrold, IVIr. Mark Lemon, Mr. Dudley Costello, and Mr. George Henry Lewes; the general management and supreme control being given to Dickens. Leading men in both cities contributed largely to the design, and my friend Mr. Alexander Ireland of Manchester has lately sent me some letters not more characteristic of the energy of Dickens in regard 335 513 514 The Life of Charles Dickens ■If to it than ot the eagerness of everyone addressed to give what help they could. Making personal mention of his fellow-sharers in the enter- prise he describes the troop, in one of those letters, as "the most easily governable company of actors on earth"; and to this he had doubtless brought them, but not very easily. One or two of his managerial troubles at rehearsals remain on record in letters to my- self, and may give amusement still. Comedy and farces are referred to indiscriminately, but the farces were the most recurring plague. "Good Heaven! I find that A. hasn't twelve words, and 1 am in hourly expectation of rebellion!" — "You were right about the green baize, that it would certainly tn .^fflc the voices; and some of our actors, by Jove, haven't too mu. of that commodity at the best." — "B. shocked me so much the other night by a restless, stupid movement of his hands in his first scene with you, that 1 took a turn of an hour with him yesterday morning, and 1 hope quieted his nerves a little." — "I made a desperate effort to get C. to give up his part. Yet in spite of all the trouble he gives me I am sorry for him, he is so evidently hurt by his own sense of not doing well. He clutched the part, how- ever, tenaciously; and three weary times we drii<;ged through it last night." — "That infernal E. forgets everything." — "1 plainly see that F. when nervous, which 1 ^ is sure to be, loses his memory. Moreover, his asides are inaudible, even at Miss Kelly's; and as regularly as I stop him to say them again, he exclaims (with a face of agon}'^) that 'he'll speak loud on the night,' as if anybody ever did without doing it always!" — "G. not born for it at all, and too innately conceited, I much fear, to do anything well. I thought him better last night, but £ would as soon laugh at a kitchen poker." — "Fancy H., ten days after the casting of that farce, wanting F.'s part therein! Having him- self an excellent old man in it already, and a quite admirable part in the other farce." From which it will appear that my friend's office was not a sinecure, and that he was not, as few amateur-managers have €ver been, without the experiences of Peter Quince. Fewer still, I suspect, have fought through them with such perfect success, for the company turned out at last would have done credit to any enterprise. They deserved the term applied to them by Maclise, who had invented it first for Macready, on his being driven to "star" in the provinces when his managements in London closed. They were "splendid strollers." On Monday, 26 July, we played at Manchester, and on Wednesday the 28th at Liverpool; the comedy being followed on the first night by A Good Night's Rest and Turning the Tables, and on the second by Comfortable Lodgings, or Paris in .T750; and the receipts being, on the first night £440 12s., and on the second, £^6;^ 8s. 6d. But though the married members of the company who took their wives defrayed that part of the cost, and every one who acted paid three pounds ten to the benefit fund for his hotel charges, the expenses were necessarily handsomely as this realised the design, expectations had been raised as iff* what help itheenter- 'the most lis he had wo of his ers to my- ref erred to ig plague. I in hourly een baize, actors, by ist."-— "B. iiovement 3f an hour s a little." ot in spite evidently )art, how- agh it last y see that Moreover, ilarly as I [on}'') that out doing :onceited, tiight, but ten days ,ving him- )le part in office was gers have er still, I ss, for the nterprise. I invented provinces "splendid ednesday t night by lecond by ig, on the it though defrayed aunds ten ecessarily ;en raised The Life of Charles Dickens 515 to five hundred. There was just that shade of disappointment, there- fore, when, shortly after we came back and Dickens had returned to Broadstairs, I was startled by a letter from him. On 3 August he had written: "All well. Children" (who had been going through whooping cough) "immensely improved. Business arising out of the late blaze of triumph, worse than ever." Then came what startled me, the very next day. As if his business were not enough, it had occurred to him that he might add the much longed-for hundred pounds to the benefit fund by a little jeu d'esprit in form of a history of the trip, to be published witli illustrations from the artists; and his notion was to write It in the charac "^Irs. Gamp. It was to be, in the phra.se- ology of that notorious v ..x. i», anew "Piljians Projiss"; and was to bear upon the title-page its description as an Account of a late Expedi- tion into the North, for an Amateur Theatrical Benefit, written by Mrs. Gamp (who was an eyewitness). Inscribed to Mrs. Harris, Edited by Charles Dickens, and published, with illustrations on wood by so and so in aid of the benefit fund. "What do you think of this idea for it? The argument would be, that Mrs. Gamp, being on the eve of an excursion to Margate as a relief from her professional fatigues, comes to the knowledge of the intended excursion of our party; hears that several of the ladies concerned are in an interesting situation; and decides to accompany the party unbeknown, in a second-class carriage — 'in case.' There, she finds a gentleman from the Strand in a checked suit, who is going down with the wigs" — the theatrical hair- dresser employed on these occasions, Mr. Wilson, had eccentric points of character that were a fund of infinite mirth to Dickens — "and to his politeness Mrs. Gamp is indebted for much support and counten- ance during the excursion. She will describe the whole thing in her own manner: sitting, in each place of performance, in the orchestra, next the gentleman who plays the hettle-drums. She gives her critical opinion of Ben Jonson as a literary character, and refers to the different members of the party, in the course of her description of the trip: having always an invincible animosity towards Jerrold, for Caudle reasons. She addresses herself, generally, to Mrs. Harris, to whom the book is dedicated — but is discursive. Amount of matter, haif a sheet of Dombey: may be a page or so more, but not less." Alas! it never arrived at even that small s'-^.e, but perished prematurely, as I feared it would, from failure of the artists to furnish needful nourishment. Of course it could not live alone. Without suitable illustration it must have lost it'- oint and pleasantry, "Mac will make a little garland of the ladies for the title-page. Egg and Stone will themselves originate something fanciful, and I will settle with Cruik- shank and Leech. I have no doubt the little thing will be droll and attractive." So it certainly would have been, if the Thanes of art had not fallen from him; but on their desertion it had to be abandoned posal then; and, though the little jest had lost much of its flavour now, I cannot find it in my heart to omit them here. There are so many 1.J 1 1 I It 5i6 The Life of Charles Dickens friends ol Mrs, Gamp who will rejoice at this unexpected visit from her! "I. Mrs Gamp's Account or her Connexion with THIS Affair "Which Mrs. Harris's own words to me, was these: 'Sairey Gamp ' she says, 'why not go to Margate? Srimps,' says that dear creetur, "is to your liking, Sairey; why not go to Margate for a week, bring your constitootion up with srimps, and come back to them loving arts as knows and wallies of you, blooming? Sairev,' Mrs. Harris says 'you are but poorly. Don't denige it, Mrs. Gamp, for books is in your looks. You must have rest. Your mind,' slie says, 'is too strong for you; it gets you down and treads upon you, Sairey. It is useless to disguige the fact — the blade is a wearing out the sheets.' 'Mrs Harris,' I says to her, 'I could not undertake to say, and I will not deceive you ma'am, that I am the woman I could wish to be. The time of worrit as I had with Mrs. Colliber, the baker's lady, which was so bad in her mind with her first, that she would not so much as look at bottled stout, and kept to gruel through the month, has agued me Mrs. Harris. But ma'am,' I ?• s to her, 'talk not of Margate, for if I do go anywheres, it is elsewxieres and not there.' 'Sairey,' says Mrs. Harris, solemn, 'whence this mystery? If I have ever deceived the hardest-working, soberest, and best of women, ,^hich her name is well beknown is S. Gamp Midwife Kingsgate Street High Holborn, men- tion It. If not,' says Mrs. Harris, with the tears a standing in her eyes 'reweal your intentions.' 'Yes, Mrs. Harris,' I says, 'L will. Well 1 knows you Mrs. Harris; well you knows me; well we both knows wot the characters of one another is. Mrs. Harris then,' I says. '1 have heard as there is a expedition going down to Manjestir and Liverspool, a play-acting. If I goes anywheres for change it is along with that.' Mrs Harris cla.sps her hands, and drops into a chair, as if her time was come— which I know'd it couldn't be, by rights, for six weeks odd •And have I lived to hear,' she says, 'of Sairey Gamp, as always kept herself respectable, in company with play-actors!' 'Mrs. Harris,' I says to her, 'be not alarmed— not rfeg'lar play-actors— hammertoors ' 'Thank Evans!' says Mrs. Harris, and bustiges into a flood of tears. " "When the sweet creetur had compoged hersef (which a sip of brandy and warm water, and sugared pleasant, with a little nutmeg did It), I proceeds in these words. 'Mrs Harris, I am told as these Hammertoors are litter'ry and artistickle.' 'Sairey,' says that best of wimmin, with a shiver and a slight relasp, 'go on, it might be worse ' ♦I likewise hears," I says to her, 'that they're agoin play-acting for the benefit of two litter'ry men; one as has had his wrongs a long time ago and has got his rights at last, and one as has made a many people merry m his time, but is very dull and sick and lonelv his own sei indeed.* 'Sairey,' says Mrs. Harris, 'you're an Inglish woman' and that's no business of you'rn.' ' I visit from VITH rey Gamp, ' creetur, "is bring your 'ing arts as i says, 'you i is in your too strong '.t is useless leets.' 'Mrs 1 I will not e. The time lich was so 1 as look at agued me, ite, for if I ' says Mrs. iceived the ame is well 3orn, men- n her eyes, ill. \^'ell 1 knows wot ys. '1 have ^iverspool, ivith that.' r time was veeks odd. ways kept Harris,' I mertoors.' of tears. h a sip of le nutmeg d as these lat best of be worse.' icting, for . long time e a many ly his own h woman. The Life oi Charles Dickens 517 No, Mrs. Harris,' I says, that's very true; I hope I knows my dooty and my country. But,' I says. *I am informed as there is Ladies m this party, and that half a dozen of 'em if not more, is in various stages of a interesting state. Mrs. Harris, you and me well knows what Ingeins often does. If I accompanies this expedition, unbeknown and second cladge, may I not combine my calling, with change of air, and prove a service to my feller creeturs?' 'Sairey.' was Mrs. Harris's reply, ' you was born to be a blessing to your sex. and bring 'em through it. Good go with you! But keep your distance tiU called in. Lord bless you Mrs. Gamp; for people is known by the company they keeps and htterary and artistickle society might be the ruin of you before you was aware, with your best customers, both sick and monthly if they took a pride in themselves." "11. Mrs. Gamp is Descriptive "The number of the cab had a seven in it 1 think, and a ought 1 know— and if this should meet his eye (which it was a black 'un, new done, that h -aw with; the other was tied up), I give him a warning that he'd better take that umbreller and patten to the Hackney Coach Office before he repents it. He was a young man in a weskit with sleeves to it and strings behind, and needn't flatter himsef with a suppogition of escape, as I gave this description of him to the Police the moment I found he had drove off with my property; and if he thinks there an't laws enough he's much mistook— I tell him that. "I do assure you Mrs. Harris, when I stood in the raihvays office that morning with my bundle on my arm and one patten in my hand, you might have knocked me down with a feather, far less pork- mangers which was a lumping against me, continual and sewere all round. I was drove about like a brute animal and almost worrited into fits, when a gentleman with a large shirt-collar and a hook nose, and a eye like one of Mr. Sweedlepipes's hawks, and long locks of hair, and wiskers that I wouldn't have round no lady as I was engaged to meet suddenly a turning round a corner, for any sum of money you could offer me, says, laughing, 'Halloa, Mrs. Gamp, what are you up to!' I didn't know him from a man (except by his clothes); but I says faintly, 'If you're a Christian man, show me where to get a second- cladge ticket for Manjestir, and have me put in a carriage, or I shall drop!' Which he kindly did, in a cheerful kind of a way, skipping about in the strangest manner as ever I see, making all kinds of actions and looking and vinking at me from under the brim of his hat (which was a good deal turned up) , to that extent, that I should have thought he meant something but for being so flurried as not to have no thoughts at all until I was put into a carriage along with a individgle — the politest as ever I did see— in a shepherd's plaid suit with a long gold watch-guard hanging round his neck, and his hand a trembling through nervousness worse than a aspian leaf, " 'I'm wery appy, ma'am,' he says— the politest vice as ever I "ii 1 4 I lil 518 The Life of Charles Dickens heerd! — 'to go down with a lady belonging to our party.' " 'Our party, sir!' I says. " 'Yes, ma'am,' he says, 'I'm Mr. Wilson. I'm going down with the wigs.' "Mrs. Harris, wen he said he was agoing down with the wigs, such was my state of confugion and worrit that I though t he must be connected with the Government in some ways or another, but directly moment he explains himsef, for he says: " 'There's not a theatre in London worth mentioning that I don't attend punctually. There's five-and -twenty wigs in these boxes, ma'am,' he says, a pinting towards c. cap of luggage, 'as was worn at the Queen's Fancy Ball. There's a black wig, ma'am,' he says, 'as was worn by Garrick; there's a red one, ma'am,' he says, 'as was worn by Kean; there's a brown one, ma'am,' he says, 'as was worn by Kemble; there's a yellow one, ma'am,' he says, 'as was made for Cooke; there's a grey one, ma'am,' he .cays, 'as I measured Mr. Young for, myself: and there's a white one, ma'am, that Mr. Macready went mad in. There's a flaxen one as was got up express for Jenny Lind the night she came out at the Italian Opera. It was very much applauded was that wig, ma'am, through the evening. It had a great reception. The audience broke out the moment they see it.' " 'Are you inMr. Sweedlepipes's line, sir?' I says. " 'Which is that, ma'am?' he says — the softest and genteelest vice I ever heerd, I do declare, Mrs. Harris! " 'Hair-dressing,' I says. " 'Yes, ma'am,' he replies, 'I have that honour. Do you see this, ma'am?' he says, holding up his right hand. " 'I never see such a trembling,' I says to him. And I never did! " 'All along of Her Majesty's Costume Ball ma'am,' he says. 'The excitement did it. Two hundred ar.d fifty-seven ladies of the first rank and fashion had their heads got jp on that occasion by this hand, and my t'other one. I was at it eight-and-forty hours on my feet, ma'am, without rest. It was a Powder ball, ma'am. We have a Powder piece at Liverpool. Have I not the pleasure,' he says, looking at me curious, 'of addressing Mrs. Gamp!' " 'Gamp I am, sir,' I replies. 'Both by name and natur.' Would you like to see your beeographer's moustache and wiskers, ma'am?' he says. 'I've got 'em in this box.' " 'Drat my beeograffer, sir,' I says, 'he has given me no region to wish to know anythink about him.' " 'Oh, Missus Gamp, I ask your parden' — I never see such a polite man, Mrs. Harris! 'P'raps,' he says, 'if you're not of the party, you don't know who it was that assisted you into this carriage!' '' 'No, sir,' I says. 'I don't, indeed.' " 'Why, ma'am,' he says, a wisperin', 'that was George, ma'am.' " 'What George, sir? I don't know no George,' says I. 'Thft PTPat Gpnrrrp ma 'rim ' ca\rc Ko 'TVio Prn'-'lrohqr'Vo * "If you'll believe me, Mrs. Harris, I turns my head, and see the n with the wigs, such e must be at directly at 1 don't !se boxes, was worn e says, 'as was worn ; worn by for Cooke; 'oung for, went mad I the night luded was reception. 3elest vice 1 see this, /er did ! 5ays. 'The [ the first this hand, my feet, e have a s, looking d wiskers, region to h a polite arty, you la'am.' Pi d see the The Life of Charles Dickens 519 wery man a making picturs of me on his thumb nail, at the winder! while anothei- of 'em — a tall, slim, melancolly gent, with dark hair and a bage vice — looks over his shoulder, with his head o' one side as if he understood the subject, and coolly says, 'I've draw'd her several times — in Punch,' he says too! The owdacious wretch! " 'Which 1 never touches, Mr. Wilson,' I remarks out loud — I couldn't have helped it, Mrs. Harris, if you had took my life for it! — 'which I never touches, Mr. Wilson, on account of the lemon!' " Hush!' says Mr. Wilson, 'There he is!' "I only see a fat gentleman with curly black hair and a merry face, a standing on the platform rubbing his two hands over one another, as if he was washing of 'em, and shaking his head and shoulders wery much; and I was a wondering wot Mr. Wilson meant, wen he says 'There's Dougladge, Mrs. Gamp!' he says. 'There's him as wrote the life of Mrs. Caudle!' "Mrs. Harris, wen I see that little willain bodily before me, it give me such a turn that I was all in a tremble. If I hadn't lost my umbreller in the cab, I must have done him a injury with it! Oh the bragian little traitor! right among the ladies, Mrs. Harris; looking his wickedest and deceitfullest of eyes while he was a talking to 'em; laughing at his own jokes as loud a you please; holding his hat in one hand to cool his-sef, and to.ssing back his iron-grey mop of a head of hair with the other, as if it was so much shavings — there, Mrs. Harris, I see him gettin encouragement from the pretty delooded crteturs, which never know'd that sweet saint, Mrs. C., as I did, and being treated with as much confidence as if he'd never wdolated none oi the domestic ties, and never showed up nothing! Oh the aggrawa- tion of that Dougladge! Mrs. Harris, if I hadn't apologiged to Mr. Wilson, and put a little bottle to my lips which was i" my pocket for the journey, and which it is very rare indeed I have about me, I could not have abared the sight of him — there, Mrs. Harris! 1 could not! — I must have tore him, or have give way and fainted. "While the bell was a ringing, and the luggage of the hammer-toors in great confusion — all a litter'ry indeed — was handled up, Mr. Wilson demeens his-sef politer than ever. 'That,' he says, 'Mrs. Gamp,' a pinting to a officer- ^ooking gentleman, that a lady with a little basket was a taking (;are on, 'is another of our party. He's a author too — continivally going up the walley of the Muses, Mrs. Gamp. There,' he says, alluding to a fine looking, portly gentleman, with a face like a amiable full moon, and a short mild gent, with a pleasant smile, 'is two more of our astists, Mrs. G., well beknowed at the Royal Academy, as sure as stones is stones, and eggs is eggs. This resolute gent,' he says, 'a coming along here as is aperrently going to take the railway s by storm — him with the tight legs, and his weskit very much buttoned, and his mouth very much shut, and his coat a flying open, and his heels a-giving it to the jplatform, is a cricket and beeografier, and our principal tragegian.* '±5ut who,' says I, when the bell had left off, and the train had begun to move, 'who. 520 The Life of Charles Dickens Mr. Wilson, is the wild gent in the prespiration, that's been a-tearing up and down all this time with a great box of papers under his arm, a-talking to everybody wery indistinct, and exciting of himself dread- ful?' 'Why?' says Mr, Wilson, with a smile. 'Because, sir,' 1 says, "he's being left behind.' 'Good God!' cries Mr. Wilson, turning pale and putting out his head, 'it's yo^vr becograffer — the Manager— and he has got the money, Mrs. Gamp!' Hous'ever, someone chucked him into the train and we went off. At the first shreek of the whistle, Mrs. Harris, I turned white, for I had took notice of some of them dear creeturs as was the cause of my being in company, and 1 1- ow'd the danger that — but Mr. Wilson, which is a married man, puts his hand on mine, and says, 'Mrs. Gamp, calm yourself; it's only the Ingein.' " Of those of the party with whom these humorous liberties were taken, there arc only two now living to complain of their friendly caricaturist; and Mr. Cruikshank will perhaps join me in a frank forgiveness not the less heartily for the kind words about himself that reached me from Broadstairs not many days after Mrs. Gamp. "At Canterbury yesterday" (2 September) "I bought George Cruik- shank's Bottle. I think it very powerful indeed; the two last plates most admirable, except that the boy and girl in the very last are too young, and the girl more like a circus phenomenon than that no- phenomenon she is intended to represent. I question, however, whether anybody else living could have done it so well. There is a woman in the last plate but one, garrulous about the murder, with a child in her arms, that is as good as Hogarth. Also, the man who is stooping down, loolang at the body. The philosophy of the thing, as a great lesson, I think all wrong; because to be striking, and original too, the drinking should have begun in sorrow, or poverty, or ignor- ance — Ine three things in which, in its awful aspect, it does begin. The design would then have been a double-handed sword — but too 'radical' for good old George, I suppose." The same letter made mention of other matters of interest. His accounts for the first half-year of Dombey were so much in excess of what had been expected from the new publishing arrangements, that from this date all embarrassments connected with money were brought to a close. His future profits varied of course with his varying sales, but there was always enough, and savings were now to begin. "The profits of the half-year are brilliant. Deducting the hundred pounds a month paid six times, I have still to receive two thousand, two hundred and twenty pounds, which I think is tidy. Ddn't you? ..." Devonshire Terrace meanwhile had been quitted by his tenant; and coming up joyfully himself to take possession, he brought for completion in his old home an important chapter of Dombev. On the way he lost his portmanteau, but ' ' Thank God ! the MS. of th ^ chapter v,asn't in it. Whenever I travel, and have anything of that valuable aracie, x aiways carry it in my pocket." He had begun at this time The Life of Charles Dickens 521 to find difficulties in writing at Broaa.,tairs, of which he told me on his return. "Vagrant music is getting to that height here, and is so impossible to be escaped from, that I fear Broadstairs and I must part company in time to come. Unless it pours of rain. I cannot write half-an-hour without the most excruciating organs, fiddles, bells o* glee-smgers. There is a violin of the most torturing kind under the window now (time, ten in the morning) and an Italian box of music on the steps-both in full blast." He closed with a mention of im- provements in the Margate theatre since his memorable last visit In the past two years it had bc^n managed by a son of the great comedian, Dowton, with whose name it is pleasant to connect this note. "We went to the manager's benefit on Wednesday" ( lo Septem- ber): "As You Like It really very well done, and a most excellent house. Mr Dowton delivered a sensiblt and modest kind of speech on the occasion, setting fortji his convi-tion that a means of instruc- tion and entertainment possessing si a literature as the stage in England, could not pass away; and i what inspired great minds and delighted great men, two thousan years ago. and did the same m Shakespeare's day, must have within itself a principle of life superior to the whim and fashion of the hour. And with that, and with cheers, he retired. He really seems a most respectable man', and he has cleared out this dust-hole of a theatre into something like decency." ... II SEASIDE HOLIDAY.S 1848-51 The portion of Dickens's life over which his adventures of strolling extended was in other respects not without interest; and this chapter wil^. deal with some of his seaside holidays before I pass to the publica- tion in 1848 of the scory of The Haunted Man, and to the establish- ment in 1850 of the Periodical which had been in his thoughts for half a dozen years before, and has had foreshadowings neariy as frequent in my pages. Among the incidents of 1848 before the holiday season came were the dethronement of Louis Philippe, a..d birth of the second French republic: on which I ventured to predict that a Gore House friend of ours, and his friend, would m three days be on the scene of action The three days passed, and I had this letter. "Mardi, Fevrier 29 1848. MoN Cher. Vous etes homme de la plus grande penetration' Ah, mon Dieu, que vous etcs absolument magnifique! Vous prevoyez pxcsquc toutes ies choses qui out arriver; et aux choses qui viennent 335* H ^ 522 The Life of Charles Dickens \i li d'arriver vous etes merveilleusement au-fait. Ah, cher enfant, quelle id^e sublime vous vous aviez k la tSte quand vous prevites si claire- ment que M. le Comte Alfred d'Orsay se rendrait au pays de sa naissance! Quel magicien! Mais— c'est tout egal, mais— il n'est pas parti. II reste k Gore House, ou, avant-hier, il y avait un grand diner l. tout le monde. Mais quel homme, quel ange, nianmoins! Mon Ami, je trouve que j'aime tant la Republrque, qu'il me faut renoncer ma langue et ecrire seulement le langage de la Republique de France langage des Dieux et des Anges— langage, en un mot, des Fran9ais! Hier au soir je rencontrai k 1' Athenaeum Monsieur Mack Leese, qui me dit que MM. les Commissionnaires des Beaux Arts 'ui avaient ecrit, par leur secretaire, un billet de remerciements a propos de s^i tableau dans la CHambre des Deputes, et qu'ils lui avaient prie de faire I'autre tableau en fresque, dont on y a besoin. Ce qa'il a promis. Voici des nouvelles pour les champs de Lincoln's Inn! Vive la gloire de France! Vive la Republique! Vive le Peuple! Plus de Royaut6! Plus de Bourbons! Plus de Guizot! Mort aux traitres! Faisons couler le sang pou- ^a liberte, la justice, la cause populaire! Jusqu'a cinq heures et demie, adieu, mon brave! Recevez I'assurance de ma consideration distinguee, et croyez-moi, concitoyen! votre tout devoue, Citoyen Charles Dickens." I proved to be not quite so wrong, nevertheless, as my friend supposed. Somewhat earlier than usual this summer, on the close of the Shakespeare House performances, he tried Broadstairs once more, having no important writing in hand: but in the brief interval before leaving he saw a thing of celebrity in those days, the Chinese junk; and I had all the details in so good a description that I could not resist the temptation of using some parts of it at the time. "Drive down to the Blackwall railway," he wrote to me, "and for a matter of eighteen-peiice you are at the Chinese Empire in no time. In half a score of minutes, the tiles and chimney-pots, backs of squalid houses, frowsy pieces of waste ground, narrow courts and streets, swamps, ditches, masts of ships, gardens of duckweed, and unwhole- some little bowers of scarlet beans, whirl away in a flying dream, and nothing is left but China. How the flowery region ever came into this latitude and longitude is the first thing one asks; and it is not cer- tainly the least of the marvel. As Aladdin's palace was transported hither and thither by the rubbing of a lamp, so the crew of Chinamen aboard the Keying devoutly believed that their good ship would turn up, quite safe, at the desired port, if they only tied red rags enough upon the mast, rudder, and cable. Somehow they did not succeed. Perhaps they ran short of rag; at any rate they hadn't enough oti board to keep them above water; and to the bottom they v/ould undoubtedly have gone but for the skill and coolness of a dozen English sailors, who brought them over the ocean in safety. Well, if there be any one thing in the world that this extraordinary craft is not at all like, that thing is a ship nf any kind. So narrow, 30 long, so grotesque; so low in the middle, so high at each end, like a China m The Life of Charles Dickens 523 pen-tray; with no rigging, with nowhere to go to aloft; with mats for saiL, great warped cigars for masts, gaudy dragons and sea-monster . disporting themselves from stem to stern,, and on the stern a gigantic cock of impossible aspect, defying the world (as well he may) to produce his equal— it would look more at home at the top of a public building, or at the top of a mountain, or in an avenue of trees, or down in a mine, than afloat on the water. As for the Chinese lounging on the deck, the most extravagant imagination would never dare to suppose them to be mariners. Imagine a ship's crew, without a pro- file among them, in gauze pinafores and plaited hair; wearing stiff clogs a quarter of a foot thick in the sole; and lying at night in little scented boxes, like back-gammon men or chess-pieces, or mother- of-pearl counters! But by Jove! even this is nothing to your surprise wher. you go down into the cabin. There you get a torture of per- plexity. As, what became of all those lanterns hanging to the roof when the Junk was out at sea? Whether they dangled there, banging and beating against each other, like so many jesters' baubles.? Whether the idol Chin Tee, of the eighteen arms, enshrined in a celestial Punch's Show, in the place of honour, ever tumbled out in heavy weather.? Whether the incense and the joss-stick still burnt before her, with a faint perfume and a little thread of smoke, while the mighty waves were roaring all around.? Whether that preposterous tissue-paper umbrella in the corner was always spread, as being a convenient maritime instrument for walking about the decks with in a storm? Whether all the cool and shiny little chairs and tables were continually sliding about and bruising each other, and if not why not? "'nether anybrcly on the voyage ever read those two books prir . r.i characters like bird-cages and fly-traps? Whether the ■V m passenger, He Sing, who had never been ten miles from home in ' • -Ife before, lying sick on a bamboo couch in a private china clo..t;t of his own (where he is now perpetually writing autographs for inquisitive barbar.ans), ever began to doubt the potency of the Goddess of the Sea. whose counterfeit presentment, like a flowery monthly nurse, occupies the sailors' joss-house in the second gallery? Whether it is possible that the said Mandarin, or the artist of the ship, Sam Sing, Esquire, R.A. of Canton, can ever go ashor*^ without a walking-staff of cinnamon, agreeably to the usage of their likenesses in British tea-shops? Above all, whether the hoarse old ocean could ever have been seriously in earnest with this floating toy-shop- or had merely played with it in lightness of spirit— roughly, but meaning no harm— as the bull did with another kind of china-shop on St. Patrick's Day in the morning." ... Other letters of the summer from Broadstairs will complete what he wrote from the same place last year on Mr. Cruikshank's efforts in the cause of temperance, and will enable me to say, what I know he wished to be remembered in his story, that there was no subject on which through his whole life he felt more strongly than this. No man advocated temj^erance, even as far as possible its legislative '<■ i. 524 The Life of Charles Dickens enforcement, with greater earnestness; but he made important reservations. Not thinking drunkenness to be a vice inborn, or incident to the poor more than to other people, he never would agree that the existence of a gin-shop was the alpha and omega of it. Believing it to be the "national horror," he also believed that many operative causes had to do with having made it so; and his objection to the temperance agitation was that these were left out of account altogether. He thought the gin-shop not fairly to be rendered the exclusive object of attack until, in connection with the classes who mostly made it their resort, the temptations that led to it, physical and moral, should have been more bravely dealt with. Among the former he counted foul smells, disgusting habitations, bad work- shop-customs, scarcity of light, air, and water, in short the absence of all easy means of decency and health; and among the latter, the mental weariness and languor so induced, the desire of wholesome relaxation, the craving for some stimulus and excitement, not less needful than the sun itself to lives so passed, and last, and inclusive of all the rest, ignorance, and the want of rational mental training generally applied. This was consistently Dickens's "platform" throughout the years he was known to me; and holding it to be within the reach as well as the scope of legislation, which even our political magnates have been discovering lately, he thought intem- perance to be but the one result that, out of all of those arising from the absence of legislation, was the most wretched. For him, drunken- ness had a teeming and reproachful history anterior to the drunken stage; and he thought it the first duty of the moralist bent upon annihilating the gin-shop, to "strike deep and spare not" at those previous remediable evils. Certainly this was not the way of Mr. Cruikshank, any more than it is that of the many excellent people who take part in temperance agitations. His former tale of the Bottle, as told by his admirable pencil, was that of a decent working man,' father of a boy and a girl, living in comfort and good esteem until near the middle age, when happening unluckily to have a goose for dinner one day in the bosom of his thriving family, he jocularly sends out for a bottle of gin, persuades his wife, until then a picture of neatness, and good housewifery, to take a little drop after the stuffing, and the whole family from that moment drink themselves to des- truction. The sequel, of which Dickens now wrote to me, traced the lives of the boy and girl after the wretched deaths of their drunken parents, through gin-shop, beer-shop, and dancing-rooms, up to their trial for robbery: when the boy is convicted, dying aboard the hulks; and the girl desolate and mad after her acquittal, flings herself frorn London Bridge into the night darkened river. "I think," said Dickens, "the power of that closing scene quite extraordinary. It haunts the remembrance like an awful reality. It is full of passion and terror, and I doubt very much whether any hand but his could so have rendered it. There are other fine things too. The death-bed scene on board the hulks; the convict who is fit rt The Life of Charles Dickens 525 composmg the face, and the other who is drawing the screen round the bed's head; seem to mo masterpieces worthy of the greatest pamter. The reality of the place and the fidelity with which everv minute object illustrative of it is presented, are surprising. I think myself no bad judge of this feature, and it is remarkable throughout In the trial scene at the Old Bailey, the eye may wander round the Court, and observe everything that is a part of the place. The verv light and atmosphere are faithfully reproduced. So. in the gin-shop and the beer-shop. An inferior hand would indicate a fragment of the fact, and slur it over; but here every shred is honestly made out \ !u"^ u" behind the bar in the gin-shop, is as real as the convicts at the hulks, or the barrister-^ round the table in the Old Bailey I found It quite curious, as I c. jed the book, to recall the number of faces. I had seen of individual identity, and to think what a chance they have of living, as the Spanish friar said to Wilkie. when the living have passed away. But it only makes more exasperating to me the obstinate one-sidedness of the thing. When a man shows so forcibly the side of the medal on which th people in their faults and crimes are stamped, he is the more bound to help us to a glance at that other side on which the faults and vices of the governments placed over the people are not less gravely impressed." This led to some remark on Hogarth's method in such matters, and I am glad to be able to preserve a masterly criticism of that great Englishman, by a writer who closely resembled him in genius- as another generation will be probably more apt than our own to discover. "Hogarth avoided the Drunkard's Progress. I conceive precisely because the causes of drunkenness among the poor were so numerous and widely spread, and lurked so sorrowfully deep and far down m all human misery, neglect, and despair, that even his pencil could not bring them fairly and justly into the light. It was. never his plan to be content with only showing the effect. In the death of the miser-father, his shoes new-soled with the binding of his Bible, before the young Rake begins his career; in the worldly father, listless daughter, impoverished young lord, and crafty lawyer of the first plate of Marriage-a-la-mode; in the detestable advances, through the stages of Cruelty; and in the progress downward of Thomas Idle; you see the effects indeed, but also the causes. He was. never disposed to spare the kind of drunkenness that was of more 'respectable' engenderment. as one sees in his Midnight Modern Conversation, the election plates, and crowds of stupid aldermen and other guzzlers. But after one immortal journey down Gin I>ane he turned away in pity and sorrow— perhaps in hope of better things' one day, from better laws and schools and poor men's homes— and went back no more. The scene of Gin Lane, you know, is that just cleared away for the extension of Oxford Street, which we were looking at the other dav- and T thinlr if q. romai-Vr.Ki'- +'-'>if -' "- garth s picture, that, while it exhibits drunkenness in the most appalling forms, it also forces on attention a most neglected wretched '"if I 526 The Life of Charles Dickens ■ ( 1 • 1 neighbourhood and an unwholesome, indecent abject condition of lile that might be put as frontispiece to our sanitary report of a hun- dred years later date. I have always myself thought tae purpose of this hne piece to be not adequately stated even by Charles Lamb, i he very houses seem absolutely reeling' it is true; but beside that wonderful picture of what follows intoxication, we have indication quite as powerful of what leads to it among the neglected classes. Ihere is no evidence that any of the actors in the dreary scene have ever been much better than we see them there. The best are pawning the commonest necessaries, and tools of their trades; and the worst are homeless vagrants who give us no clue to their having been otherwise in bygone days. All are living and dying miserably Nobody IS interfering for prevention or for cure, in the generation going out before us, or the generation coming in. The beadle is the only sober man in the composition except the pawnbroker, and he IS mightily indifferent to the orphan-child crying beside its parent's coltin Ine little charity-girls are not so well taught or looked after but that they can take to dram-drinking already. The church indeed is very prominent and handsome; but as, quite passive in the picture It coldly s^urveys these things in progress under shadow of its tower' 1 cannot but bethink me that it was not until this year of grace 1848 tnat a Bishop of London first came out respecting something wron^^ in poor men's social accommodations, and I am confirmed in m? suspicions that Hogarth had manv meanings which have not grown obsolete in a century." ..." fe ^ Of what otherwise occupied him at Broadstairs in 1848 there is not much to mention until the close of his holiday. He used to say that he never went for more than a couple of days from his own home without something befalling him that never happened to anyone else and his Broadstairs adventure of the present summer verged closer on tragedy than comedy. Returning there one day in August after bringing up his boys to school, it had been arranged that his wife should meet him at Margate; but he had walked impatiently far beyond the place for meeting when at last he caught sight of her not in a small chaise but in a large carriage and pair followed by an excited crowd, and with the youth th^t should have been driving the little pony bruised and bandaged on the box behind the two prancing horses. "You may faintly imagine my amazement at encountering this carriage, and the strange people, and Kate, and the crowd, and the bandaged one. and all the rest of it." And then in a line or two 1 had the story. "At the top of a steep hill on the road with a ditch on each side, the pony bolted, whereupon what does John do but jump out ! He says he was thrown out. but it cannot be The reins immediately became entangled in the wheels, and away went the pony down the hill madly, with Kate inside rending the Isle of Thanet with her screams. The accident might have been a fcanui one. u the pony had not. thank Heaven, on getting to the bottom, pitched over the side; breaking the shaft and cutting her 'T? The Life of Charles Dickens 527 hind legs, but in the most extraordinary manner smashing her own way apart. She tumbled down, a bundle of legs with her head tucked underneath, and left the chaise standing on the bank! A Captain Devaynes and his wife where passing in their carriage at the moment, saw the accident with no power of preventing it, got Kate out, laid her on the grass, and behaved with infinite kindness. All's well that ends well, and I think she's really none the worse for the fright. John is in bed a good deal bruised, but without any broken bone, and likely soon to come right; though for the present plastered all over, and, like Squeers, a brown-paper parcel chock-full of nothing but groans. The women generally have no sympathy for him whatever, and the nurse says, with indignation. How could he go and leave a unprotected female in the shay!" . . . Not till the close of September I heard of work intruding itself, in a letter twitting me for a broken promise in not joining him: *'We are reasonably jolly, but rnrally so; going to bed o' nights at ten, and bathing o' mornings at half-past seven; and not drugging ourselves with those dirty and spoiled waters of Lethe that flow round the base of the great pyramid." Then, after mention of the friends who had left him. Sheriff Gordon, the Leeches, Lemon, Egg and Stone: "reflection and pensiveness are coming. I have not * — seen Fancy write With a pencil of light On the blotter so solid, commanding the seal' but I shouldn't wonder if she were to do it, one of these days. Dim visions of divers things are floating around me; and I must go to work, head foremost, when I get home. I am glad, after all, that I have not been at it here, for I am all the better for my idleness, no doubt. . . . Roche was very ill last night, and looks like one with his face turned to the other world, this morning. When are you coming? Oh what days and nights there have been here, this week past!" . . . His first seaside holiday in 1849 was at Brighton, where he passed some weeks in February; and not, I am bound to add, without the tmusual adventure to signalise his visit. He had not been a week in his lodgings, where Leech and his wife joined him, when both his landlord and the daughter of his landlord went raving mad, and the lodgers were driven away to the Bedford Hotel. "If you could have heard the cursing and crying of the two; could have seen the physi- cian and nurse quoited out into the passage by the madman at the hazard of their lives; could have seen Leech and me flying to tiie doc- tor's rescue; could have seen our wives pulling us back; could have seen the M.D. faint with fear; could have seen three other M.D.'s come to his aid; with an atmosphere of Mrs. Gamp's strait- waistcoats, struggling friends and servants, surrounding the whole; you would have said it was quite worthy of me. and quite in keeping with my usual proceedings." The lecter ended with a word on what then his thoughts were full of, but for which no name had yet been found. i f 528 The Life of Charles Dickens A ^ea-fog to-day. but yesterday inexpressibly delicious. My mind runnmg, like a high sea. on names— not satisfied yet. though " VV hen he next wrote from the seaside, in the beginning of July, he had found the name; had started his book; and was "rushing to Broadstaurs" to write the fourth number of David Copperfield. In this came the childish experiences which had left so deep an impression upon him. and over which he had some difficulty in throwing the needful disguises. "Fourteen miles to-day in the coun- ^•u 1, ^ •? written to me on 21 June, "revolving number four!" w^till he did not quite see his way. Three days later he wrote- "On leaving you last night. I found myself summoned on a special jury m the Queen's Bench to-day. I have taken no notice of the document and hourly expect to be dragged forth to a dungeon for contempt of court. I think I should rather like it. It might help me with a new notion or two m my difficulties. Meanwhile I shall take a stroll to- night in the green fields from seven to ten if you feel inclined to He had taken a house at Bonchurch. attracted there by the friend who had made it a place of interest for him during the last few years, the Rev. James White, with whose name and its associations my mind connects inseparably many of Dickens's happiest hours. To pay him fitting tribute would not be easy, if here it were caUed for In the kindly shrewd Scotch face, a keen sensitiveness to pleasure and pam was the first thing that struck any common observer. Cheerfulness and gloom coursed over it so rapidly that no one could question the tale they told. But the relish of his life had outlived Its more than usual share of sorrows; and quaint sly humour, love of jest and merriment, capital knowledge of books and sagacious quips at men. made his companionship delightful. Like his life, his genius was made up of alternations of mirth and melancholy. He would be immersed, at one time, in those darkest Scottish annals from which he drevv .us tragedies; and overflowing, at another, into Sir Frizzle Pumpkin s exuberant farce. The tragic histories may probably perish with the actor's perishable art; but three little abstracts of history written at a later time in prose, with a sunny clearness of narration and a glow of picturesque interest to my knowledge unequalled m books of such small pretension, will find I hope a lasting place in literature. They are filled with felicities' of phrase with breadth of understanding and judgment, with manful honesty' quiet sagacity, and a constant cheerful piety, valuable for all and priceless for the young. Another word I permit myself to add With Dickens, White was popular supremely for his eager good fellowship- and few men brought him more of what he always liked to conceive But he brought nothing so good as his wife. "He is excellent, but she IS better, is the pithy remark of his first Bonchurch letter- and the^true affection and respect that followed is happily still borne her by iiis uauj^ixtcra. . . . After a few more days 1 heard of progress with his writing in spite her The Life of Charles Dickens 529 of all festivities. "I have made it a rule that the Inimitable is invisible until two every day. I shall have half the number done, please God to-morrow. I have not worked quickly here yet, but I don't know what I may do. Divers cogitations have occupied my mind at inter- vals, respecting the dim design." The design was the weekly periodi- cal so often in his thoughts, of which more will appear in niy next chapter. His letter closed with intimations of discomfort in his health- of an obstinate cough; and of a determination he had formed to mount daily to the top of the downs. "It makes a great difference in tne climate to get a blow -there and come down again." Then I heard of the doctor "stethoscoping" him. of his hope that all was right in that quarter, and of rubbings "k la St. John Long" being ordered for his chest. But the mirth still went on. "There has been a Doctor l^nkester at Sandown. a very good merry fellow, who has made one at the picnics, and whom I went over and dined with, alon- with Danby {I remember your hking for Danby, and don't wonde? at It). Leech, and White." A letter towards the close of August resumed yet more of his ordinary tone. "We had games and forfeits last night at White's. Davy Roberts's pretty little daughter is there for a week, with her husband. Bicknell's son. There was a dinner hrst to say good-bye to Danby, who goes to other clergyman's duty and we were very merry. Mrs. White unchanging; White comicallv various in his moods. Talfourd comes down next Tuesday.^d w^ thmk of going over to Ryde on Monday visiting the play, sleeping there (I don't mean at the play) and bringing the Judge S Browne is coming down when he has done his month's work Should you like to go to Alum Bay. while you are here? It would involve a night out but I thmk would be very pleasant; and if you think so too. I wil arrange it sub rosa. so that we may not be. like Bobadil oppressed by numbers/ I mean to take a fly over from ShanWin to meet you at Ryde; so that we can walk back from Shanklin over the landslip, where the scenery is wonderfully beautiful. Stone and E<^s are coming next month, and we hope to see Jerrold before we go"" Such notices from his letters may be thought hardly worth pre- serving: but a wonderful vitality in every circumstance, as lonfas life under any conditions remained to the writer, is the picture thev contribute to; nor would it be complete without the addition that fond as he was. m the intervals of his work, of this abundance and variety of enjoyments, to no man were so essential also those quieter numLrs.'' :'^ '' '"^ *'^^' "°' "^'"^""^^^ "^^^ "oppresid by When he next wrote there was news very welcome to me for the pleasure to himself it involved. "Browne has sketched an uncom! monly chaiactenstic and capital Mr. Micawber for the next numhZ I hope the present number is a good one. I hear nothing but pleasant accounts of the general satisfactio: ."' Thr ' ' • - " ^ '^^'^"'^ ..« i_j.i. . intention to go to BroaStaTrr-put aswTby'dm;^?! ™'^jfts sanitary condition; but it will be seen presently that Th^rewal ml ' r^l I 'ill m s\ ,; ki I 1 ill: -i> ! ^ fl' 530 The Life of Charles Dickens li n III' ^^B'- > ij X another graver interruption. With his work well off his hands, how- ever, he had been getting on better where he was; and they had all been very merry, "Yes," he said, writing after a couple of days (23 September), "we have been sufficiently rollicking since I finished the number; and have had great games at rounders every afternoon, with all Bonchurch looking on; but I begin to long for a little peace and solitude. And now for my less pleasing piece of news. The sea has been running very high, and Leech, while bathing, was knocked over by a bad blow from a great wave on the forehead. He is in bed, and had twenty of his namesakes on his temples this morning. When I heard of him just now, he was asleep — which he had not been all night." He closed his letter hopefully, but next day (24 September) I had a less favourable report. "Leech has been very ill with con- gestion of the brain ever since I wrote, and being still in excessive pain has had ice to his head continuously, and been bled in the arm besides. Beard and I sat up there, all night." On the 26th he wrote. "My plans are all unsettled by Leech's illness; as of course I do not like to leave this place while I can be of any service to him and his good little wife. But all visitors are gone to-day, and Winterbourne once more left to the engaging family of the inimitable B. Ever since I wrote to you Leech has been seriously worse, and again very heavily bled. The night before last he was in such an alarming state of restlessness, which nothing could relieve, that I proposed to Mrs. Leech to try magnetism. Accordingly in the middle of the night I fell to; and, after a very fatiguing bout of it, put him to sleep for an hour and thirty-five minutes. A change came on in the sleep, nd he is decidedly better. I talked to the astounded little Mrs. Leech across him, when he was asleep, as if he had been a truss of hay. . . . What do you think of my setting up in the magnetic line with a large brass plate? 'Terms, twenty-five guineas per nap.' " When he wrote on the 30th, he had completed his sixth number; and his friend was so clearly on the way to recovery that he was himself next day to leave for Broadstairs with his wife, her sister, and the two little girls. "I will merely add that I entreat to be kindly remembered to Thackeray" (who had a dangerous illness at this time); "that I think I have, without a doubt, got the PQriodical notion; and that I am writing under the depressing and discomfortmg influence of paying off the tribe of bills that pour in upon an unfortunate family-young man on the eve of a residence like this. So no more at present from the disgusted, though still inimitable, and always affectionate B." He stayed at Broadstairs till he had finished his number seven, and what else chiefly occupied him were thoughts about the Periodi- cal of which account will presently be given. "Such a night and day of rain," ran his first letter, "I should think the oldest inhabitant never saw ! and yet, in the ould formiliar Broadstairs, I somehow or other don't mind it much. The change has done Mamey a world of good, and I have begun to sleep again. As for news, you might as well ask me for dolphins. Nobody in Broadstairs — to speak of. ds, how- j had all of days finished ternoon, tie peace e sea has ked over bed, and When I been all Jtember) dth con- !xcessive the arm le wrote. I do not L and his ^rbourne ver since lin very \ state of to Mrs. ; night I ;p for an ), nd he :h across . What I a large he wrote lend was t day to :tle girls, bered to I I think lat I am f paying ly-young snt from late B." IX seven, Periodi- and day habitant lehow or world of might as peak of. The Life of Charles Dickens 4 i 531 Certainly nobody in Ballard's. We are in the part, which is the house next door to the hotel itself, that we once had for three years running, and just as quiet and snug now as it was then. I don't think I shall return before the 20th or so, when the number is done; but I may, in some inconstant freak, run up to you before. Preliminary des- patches and advices shall be forwarded in any case to the fragrant neighbourhood of Clare Market and the Portugal Street burying- ground." Such was his polite designation of my whereabouts: for which nevertheless he had secret likings. "On the Portsmouth railway, coming here, encountered Kenyon. On the ditto ditto at Reigate, encountered young Dilke, and took him in tow to Canter- bur>'. On the ditto ditto at ditto (meaning Reigate), encountered Fox, M.P. for Oldham, and his daughter. All within an hour. Young Dilke great about the proposed Exposition under the direction of H.R.H. Prince Albert, and evincing, very pleasantly to me, un- bounded faith in our old friend his father." There was one more letter, taking a rather gloomy view of public affairs in connection with an inflated pastoral from Doctor Wiseman "given out of the Flamin- ian Gate," and speaking dolefully of some family matters; which was subscribed, each word forming a separate line, "Yours Des- pondently, And Disgustedly, Wilkins Micawber." His visit to the little watering-place in the following year was signalised by his completion of the most famous of his novels, and his letters otherwise were occupied by elaborate managerial prepara- tion for the private performances at Knebworth. But again the plague of itinerant music flung him into such fevers of irritation, that he finally resolved against any renewed attempt to carry on import- ant work here; and the summer of 1851, when he was busy with miscellaneous writing only, was the last of his regular residences in the place. He then let his London house for the brief remainder of its term; running away at the end of May, when some grave family sorrows had befallen him, from the crowds and excitements of the Great Exliibition; and I will only add generally of these seaside residences that his reading was considerable and very various at such intervals of labour. One of them, as I remember, took in all the minor tales as well as the plays of Voltaire, several of the novels (old favourites with him) of Paul de Kock, Ruskin's Lamps of Architecture, and a surprising number of books of African and other travel for which he had insatiable relish: but there was never much notice of his reading in his letters. "By the by, I observe, reading that wonderful book the French Revolution again for the 500th time, that Carlyle, who knows everything, don't know what Mumbo Jumbo is. It is not an Idol. It is a secnjt preserved among the men of certain African tribes, and never revealed by any of them, for the punishment of their women. Mumbo Jumbo comes in hideous form out of the forest, or the mud, or the river, or where not, and flogs some woman who has been backbiting, or scolding, or with some other domestic mischief disturbing the general peace. Carlyle's seems iff '^\ fill 532 The Life of Charles Dickens to confound him with the common Fetish; but he is quite another thing. He is a disguised man; and all about him is u freemasons' secret among the men." — "I finished the Scarlet Letter yesterday. It falls off sadly after that fine opening scene. The psychological part of the story is very much overdone, and not truly done I think. Their suddenness of meeting and agreeing to go away together after all those years, is very poor. INIr. Chillingworth ditto. The child out of nature altogether. And Mr. Dimmisdale certainly never could have begotten her." In INIr. Hawthorne's earlier books he had taken especial pleasure; his Mosses from and Old Manse having been the first book he placed in my hands on his return from America, with reiterated injunctions to read it. . . , III :4 i* U CHRISTMAS BOOKS CLOSED AND "HOUSEHOLD WORDS BEGUN \ 1848-50 It has been seen that his fancy for his Christmas book of 1848 first arose to him at Lausanne in the summer of 1846, and that, after writing its opening pages in the autumn of the following year, he laid it aside under the pressure of his Donibey. These lines were in the letter that closed his 1848 Broadstairs hoUday. "At last I am a mentally matooring of the Christmas book — or, as poor Macrone used to write, 'booke,' 'boke,' 'buke,' etc." It was the first labour to which he applied himself at his return. In London it soon came to maturity; was published duly as The Haunted Man, or the Ghost's Bargain; sold largely, beginning with a subscription of twenty thousand; and had a great success on the Adelphi stage, to which it was rather cleverly adapted by Lemon. He had placed on its title-page originally four lines from Tennyson's Departure. "" And o'er the hills, and far away Beyond their utmost purple rim, Bevond the night, across the day, Tliro' all the world it followed him; but they were less applicable to the close than to the opening of the tale, and were dropped before publication. . . . The design for his much-thought-of new Periodical was still "dim," as we have seen, when tne first cogitation of it at Bonchurch occupiea nim; l?ul tne e.-vpcuicnv^y 01 iiia.tvij.ig iv. vivaivi --cmi^- j\joii after with a visit from Mr. Evans, who brought his half-year's accounts of sales, and some small disappointment for him in those of The Life of Charles Dickens 533 ; another eniusoiis' esterday. ;hological D I think. thcT after child out fCT could lad taken been the :ica, with BEGUN 1848 first lat, after year, he 3 were in it I am a Macrone labour to duly as )eginning access on »;' Lemon, innyson's ng of the was still Dnchurch ilf-year's I those of Copperfield. "The accounts are rather shy, after Dombey, and what you said comes true after all. I am not sorry I cannot bring myself to care much for what opinions people may form; and I have a strong belief, that, if any of my books are read years hence, Dombey will be remembered as among the best of them: but passing influences are important for the time, and as Chuzzlewit with its small sale sent me up, Dombey's large sale has tumbled me down. Not very much, however, in real truth. These accounts only include the first three numbers, have of course been burdened with all the heavy expenses of number one, and ought not in reason to be complained of. But it is clear to me that the Periodical must be set a-going in the spring; and I have already been busy, at odd half-hours, in shadowing forth a name and an idea. Evans says they have but one opinion repeated to them of Copperfield, and they feel very confident about it. A steady twenty-five thousand, which it is now on the verge of, will do very well. The back numbers are always going off. Read the enclosed." . . . The week before he left Bonchurch I again had news of the old and often recurring fancy. "The old notion of the Periodical, which had been agitating itself in my mind for so long, I really think is at last gradually growing into form." ... It was to be a weekly mis- cellany of general literature; and its stated objects were to be, to contribute to the entertainment and instruction of all classes of readers, and to help in the discussion of the more important social questions of the time: It was to comprise short stories by others as well as himself; matters of passing interest in the liveliest form that could be given to them; subjects suggested by books that might most be attracting attention; and poetry in every number if possible, but in any ca'^e something of romantic fancy. This was to be a cardinal point. There was to be no more utilitarian spirit; with all familiar things, but especially those repellent on the surface, some- thing was to be connected that should be fanciful or kindly; and the hardest workers were to be taught that their lot is not necessarily excluded from the sympathies and graces of imagination. This was all finally settled by the close of 1849, when a general announcement of the intended adventure was made. There remained only a title and an assistant-editor; and I am happy now to remember that for the latter important duty Mr. Wills was chosen at my suggestion. He discharged its duties with admirable patience and ability for twenty years, and Dickens's later life had no more intimate friend. The title took some time and occupied many letters. One of the first thought-of has now the curious interest of having fore-shadowed, by the motto proposed to accompany it, the title of the series of All the Year Round which he was led to sulsstitute for the older series in 1859. "The Robin. With this motto from Goldsmith. The redbreast, celebrated for its affection to mankind, continues with us, the year round." That however was rejected. Then came: "Mankind. This I think very good." It foiiowed the other neverthelf>ss. After it came: "And here a strange idea, but with decided advantages. 'Charles Dickens. hi: 534 The Life of Charles Dickens A weekly journal designed for the instruction and entertainment of all classes of readers. Conducted by Himself.' " Still something was wanting in that also. Next day there arrived: "I really think if there be anything wanting in the other name, that this i" very pretty, and just supplies it. The Household Voice. I have thought of many others, as— The Household Guest. The Household Face. The Comrade. The Microscope, The Highway of Life. The Lever. The Rolling Years. The Holly Tree (with two lines from Southey for a motto). Everything. But I rather think the Voice is it." It was near indeed; but the following day came, "Household Words. This is a very pretty name": and the choice was made. The first number appeared on Saturday, 30 March, 1850, and contained among other things the beginning of a story by a very original writer, Mrs. Gaskell, for whose powers he had a high admira- tion, and with whom he had friendly intercourse during many years. Other opportunities will arise for mention of those with whom this new labour brought him into personal communication, but I may "t once say that of all the writers, before unknown, whom his journal nelped to make familiar to a wide world of readers, he had the strongest personal interest in Mr. Sala, and placed at once in the high- est rank his capabilities of help in such an enterprise. An illustrative trait of what I have named as its cardinal point to him will fitly close my account of its establishment. Its first number, still unpub- lished, had not seemed to him quite to fulfil his promise, "tenderly to cherish the light of fancy inherent in all breasts"; and, as soon as he received the proof of the second, I heard from him. "Looking over the suggested contents of Dumber two at breakfast this morning" (Bri£,hton: 14 March, 1850) "I felt an uneasy sense of there being a want of something tender, which would apply to some universal household knowledge. Coming down in the railroad the other night (always a wonderfully suggestive place to me when I am alone) I was looking at the stars, and revolving a little idea about them. Putting now these two things together, I wrote the enclosed little paper, straightway; and should like you to read it before you send it to the printers (it will not take you five minutes), and let me have a proof by return." This was the cliild's "dream of a star," which opened his second number; it appears among his reprinted pieces. . . . His sister Fanny and himself, he told me long before this paper was written, used to wander at night about a churchyard near their house, looking up at the stars; and her early death, of which I am shortly to speak, had vividly reawakened all the childish associations which made Y r memory dear to him. If iment of hingwas : if there tty, and af many ) Face. ?E. The wo lines link the y came, e choice 550, and ^ a very admira- ly years. 10m this t I may 3 journal had the the high- astrative will fitly 1 unpub- tenderly 5 soon as Looking lorning" 3 being a iniversal ler night alone) I nt them, sed little u send it le have a ," which •ieces. . . . lis paper ear their ich I am Delations The Life of Charles Dickens 535 IV IN AID OF LITERATURE AND ART 1850-2 In the year of the establishment of Household Words Dickens re- sumed what I have called his splendid strolling on behalf of a scheme for the advantage of men of letteri, to which a great brother-author had given the sanction of his genius and name. In November 1850, in the hall of Lord Lytton's old family seat in Knebworth Park, there were three privat*^ performances by the original actors in Ben Jonson's Every Man in His Hmaour, of which all the circumstances and surroundings were very brilliant; some of the gentlemen of tho country played both in comedy and farces; our geieiou. host was profuse of all noble encouragement; and amid the gexieral pleasure and excitement hopes rose high. Recent; experience had shown what the public interest in this kind of amusement might place within reach of its providers; and ^.here came to be discussed the possibility of making permanent such help as had been aftordfvd to fellow writers, by means of an endowment that should not be mere charity, but should combine something of both pension-list and colle^'e- lectureship, without the drawbacks ot either. It was nrY. enough considered that schemes for selt-help, to be successful, require from those they are meant to benefit, not only a general asf>ent to their desirability, but zealous co-operation. Too readily assuming what should have had more thorough investigation, the enterprise was set on foot, and the "Guild of Literature and Art" Oji inated at Knebworth. A five-act comedy was to be written by bir Edward Lytton; and, when a certain sum of monjv h^id been obtained by public representations of it, the details of the scheme v/ere to be drawn up, and appeal made to thr- e whom it add'.essca more especially. In a very few months everything was leady, except a farce which Dickens was to have written to follov/ the comedy, and which unexpected cares of management and preparation were held to absolve him from. There were other reasons. "I have written the first scene,*' he told me (23 March, 18^1), 'and it has droll points in it, 'more farcical points than you commonly find in farces.' really better. Yet I am constantly striving, for niy reputation's sake, to get into it a meaning that is impossible in a farce; constantly thinking of it, therefore, against the grain; and constantly impressed with a con- viction that I could never act in it myself with that wild abandon- ment which can alone carry a farce oil. Wherefore I have confessed to Bulwer Lytton and asked for absolution.' There was substituted a i li ;l 536 The Life of Charles Dickens new farce of Lemon's, to which, however, Dickens soon contributed so many jokes and so much Gampish and other fun of his own, that it came to be in effect a joint piece of authorship; and Gabblewigg, which the manager took to himself, was one of those personation parts requiring five or six changes of face, voice, and gait in the course of it, from which, as we have seen, he derived all the early theatrical ambition that the elder Mathews had awakened in him. "You have no idea," he continued, "of the immensity of the work as the time advances, for the Duke even throws the whole of the audience on us, or he would get (he says) into all manner of scrapes." "The Duke" was the Duke of Devonshire, of whose love of letters and interest for men of that calling I have given one cf the many instarces that adorned a life which alone perhaps in England was genumely and completely that of the Grand Seigneur. Well-read and very accomplished, he had the pleasing manners which proceed fiom a kind nature; and splendid in his mode of living beyond any other English noble, his magnificence, by the ease and elegance that accompanied it, was relieved from all offence of ostentation. He had offered his house in Piccadilly for the first rci resentations, and in his princely way discharged all the expenses attending them. A movable theatre was built and set up in the great drawing-room, the library was turned into a green-room, and here Lytton's comedy was presented. . . . The design nevertheless did not prosper, and both the great writers who had associated themselves with it are now passed away. Since it first was mentioned on this page. Lord Lytton has himself been borne to the Abbey where Dickens is laid, and which never opeixed to receive a more varied genius, a more gallant spirit, a man more constant to his friends, more true to any cause he represented, or whose name will hereafter be found entitled to a more honoured place in the history of his time. The Guild design failed because the support indispensable to success was not, as Dickens too sanguinely hoped, given to it by literary men themselves. . . • The Life of Charles Dickens 5d>7 LAST YEARS IN DEVONSHIRE TERRACE X848-51 Excepting always the haunts and associations of his childhood Dickens had no particular sentiment of locality, and any special regard for houses he had lived in was not a thing noticeable in him But he cared most for Devonshire Terrace, perhaps for the bit of ground attached to it; and it was wit! egret he suddenly discovered at the close of 1847, that he should nave to resign it "next Lady Day three years. I had thought the lease two years more." To that brief remaining time belong some incidents of which I have still to give account; and I connect them with the house in which he lived during the progress of what is generally thought his greatest book and of what I think were his happiest years. We had never had such intimate confidences as in the interval since his return from Paris; but these have been used in my narrative of the childhood and boyish experiences, and what remain are inci- dental only. Of the fragment of autobiogi-aphy there also given, the origin has been told: but the intention of leaving such a record 'had been also in his mind at an earlier date; and it was the very depth of our interest in the opening of his fragment that led to the larger design in which it became absorbed. "I hardly know why I write this," was his own comment on one of his personal revelations, "but the more than friendship which has grown between us seems to force it on me in my present mood. We shall speak of it all, you and I, Heaven grant, wisely and wonderingly many and many a time in after years. In the meanwhile I am more at rest for having opened all my heart and mind to you. . . . This day eleven years, poor dear Mary died." That was written on 7 May, 1848. . . . In all the later part of the year Dickens's thoughts were turning much to the form his next book should assume. A suggestion that he should write it in the first person, by way of change, had been thrown out by me, which he took at once very gravel v; and this, with other things, though as yet not dreaming of any public use of hid early personal trials, conspurtd to bring about the resolve xo use them. His determination once taken, with what a singular truthfulness he con- trived to blend the fact with the fiction may be shown by a small occurrence of this time. It has been inferred, from the vividness of the boy-impress'>.ns of Yarmouth in David's earliest experiences, that the place must have been familiar to his own bovhood: but the truth was that at the close of 1848 he first saw that celebrated seaport. 1'^ i •! I 538 The Life of Charles Dickens One of its earlier months had been signalised by an adventure in which Leech, Lemon, and myself took part with him, when, obtain- ing horses from Salisbury, we passed the whole of a March day in riding over every part of the Plain; visiting Stonehenge, and explor- ing Hazlitt's "hut" at Winterslow, birthplace of some of his finest essays; altogether with so brilliant a success that now (13 November) he proposed to ' 'repeat the Salisbury Plain idea in a new direction in midwinter, to wit, Blackgang Chine in the Isle of Wight, with dark winter cliffs and roaring oceans." But mid-winter brought with it too nuch dreariness of its own, to render these stormy accompaniments to it very palatable; and on the last day of the year he bethought him "it would be better to make an outburst to some old cathedral city we don't know, and what do you say to Norwich and Stanfield Hall?" Thither accordingly the three friends went, illness at the last aisabling me; and of the result I heard {12 January, 1849) that Stan- field Hall, the scene of a recent frightful tragedy, had nothing attrac- tive unless the term might be applied to "a. murderous look that seemed to invite such a crime. We arrived," continued Dickens, "between the Hall and Potass farm, as the search was going on for the pistol in a manner so consummately stupid, that there was nothing on earth to prevent any of Rush's labourers from accepting five pounds from Rush junior to find the weapon and give it to him. Norwich, a disappointment" (one pleasant face "transformeth a city," but he was unable yet to connect it with our delightful friend Elwin); "all save its place of execution, which we found fit for a gigantic scoundrel's exit. But the success of the trip, for me, was to come. Yarmouth, sir, where we went afterwards, is the strangest place in the wide world: one hundred and forty-six miles of hill-less marsh between it and London. More when we meet. I shall certainly try my hand at it." He made it the home of his "little Em'ly." Everything now was taking that direction with him; and soon, to give his own account of it, his mind was upon names "running like a high sea." Four days after the date of the last-quoted letter ("all over happily, thank God, by four o'clock this morning") there came the birth of his eighth child and sixth son; whom at first h'=! meant to call by Oliver Goldsmith's name, but settled afterwards into that of Henry Fielding; and to whom that early friend Ainsworth who had first made us known to each other, welcome and pleasant companion always, was asked to be godfather. Telling me of the change in the name of the little fellow, which he had made in a kind of homage to the style of work he was now so bent on beginning, he added, "What should you think of this for a notion of a character.? 'Yes, that is very true; but now, What's his motive?' I fancy I could make something like it into a kind of amusing and more innocent Pecksniff, 'Weil now, yes — no doubt that was a fine thing to do! But now, stop a moment, let us see — What's his motive?' " Here again was but one of the many ou-ward signs of fancy and fertility that accompanied A _ The Life of Charles Dickens 539 the outset of all his more important books; though, as in their cases also, other moods of the mind incident to such beginnings were less favourable. "Deepest despondency, as usual, in commencing, besets me;" is the opening of the letter in which he speaks of what of course was always one of his first anxieties, the selection of a name. In this particular instance he had been undergoing doubts and misgivings to more than the usual degree. It was not until 23 February he got to anything like the shape of a feasible title. "I should like to know how the enclosed (one of those I have been thinking of) strikes you, on a first acquaintance with it. It is odd, I think, and new: but it may have A's. difficulty of being 'too comic, my boy.' I suppose I should have to add, though, by way of motto, 'And in short it led to the very Mag's Diversions. Old Saying.'' Or would it be better, there being equal authority for either, 'And in short they all played Mag's Diversions. Old Saying' V "Mag^s Diversions. Being the personal history of Mr. Thomas Mag the Younger, Of Blunderstone House." This was hardly satisfactory, I thought; and it soon became apparent that he thought so too, although within the next three days I had it in three other forms. "Mag's Diversions, being the Personal History, Adventures, Experience, and Observation of Mr. David Mag the Younger, of Blunderstone House," The second omitted Adventures, and called his hero Mr. David Mag the Younger, of Copperfield House. The third made nearer approach to what the destinies were leading him to, and transformed Mr. David Mag into Mr. David Copperfield the Younger and his great-aunt Margaret; retaining still as his leading title, Mag's Diversions. It is singular that it should never have occurred to him, while the name was thus strangely as by accident bringing itself together, that the initials were but his own reversed. He was much startled when I pointed this out, and protested it was just in keeping with the fates and chances which were always befalling him, "Why else," he said, "should I so obstinately have kept to that name when once it turned up?" It was quite true that he did so, as I had curious proof foiu ving close upon the heels of his third proposal. "I wish," he wrote on 25 February, "you would look over carefully the titles now enclosed, and tell me to which you most incline. You will see that they give up Mag altogether, and refer exclusively to one name — that which I 1*-»o+- o£kT*4* ■«Tr\ii T /^r\iiV\*i- txrln/i'f Viof T r»/-»iil/l ori ■4*V|o ^irHo^'Ck rr^4' q Vk^4-4-/**- name. m i^: Ifi 540 The Life of Charles Dickens 'i. The Copper field Disclosures. Being the perbonal history, experience, and observation, of Mr. David Copperfield the Younger, of Blunderstone House. '2. The Copperfield Records. Being the personal history, experience, and observation, of Mr. David Copperfield the Younger, of Copperfield Cottage. '3. The Last Living Speech and Confession of David Copperfield, Junior, of Blunderstone Lodge, who was never executed at the Old Bailey, being his personal history found among his papers. The Copperfield Survey of the World as it Rolled. Being the personal historj', experience, and obser- vation of David Copperfield the Younger, of Blunderstone Rook- ery. The Last Will and Testament of Mr. David Copperfield. Being his personal history left as a legacy. Copperfield, Complete. Being the whole personal history and experience of Mr. David Copper- field of Blunderstone House, which he never meant to be published on any account. Or, the opening words of No. 6 might be Copperfield' s Entire; and The Copperfield Confessions might open Nos. i and 2. Now, what SAY YOU?" What I said is to h*^ inferred from what he wrote back on the 28th. "The Survey has been my favourite from the first. Kate picked it out from the rest, without my saying anything about it, Georgy too. You hit upon it, on the first glance. Therefore I have no doubt that it is indisputably the best title; and I will stick to it." There was a change nevertheless. His completion of the second chapter defined to himself, more clearly than before, the character of the book; and the propriety of rejecting everything not strictly personal from the name given to it. The words proposed, therefore, became ultimately these only: "The Personal History, Adventures, Experience, and Observa- tion of David Copperfield the Younger, of Blunderstone Rookery, which he never meant to be published on any account." And the letter which told me that with this name it was finally to be launched on I May, told me also (19 April) the difi&culties that still beset him at the opening. "My hand is out in the matter of Copperfield. To-day and yesterday I have done nothing". Though I know what I want to do, I am lumbering on like a stage-waggon. I can't even dine at the Temple to-day, I feel it so important to stick at it this evening, and make some head. I am quite aground; quite a literary Benedict, as he appeared when his heels wouldn't stay upon the carpet; and the long Copperfieldian perspective looks snowy and thick, this fine morning." The allusion was to a dinner at his house the night before; when not only Rogers had to be borne out, having fallen sick at the table, but, as we rose soon after to quit the dining-room, Mr. Jules Benedict had quite suddenly followed the poet's lead, and fallen prostrate on the carpel iu the midst of us. Amid the general consternation there seemed a want of proper attendance on the sick: the distinguished musician the World personal d obser- rfiekl tlie ne Rook- ament of Being his a legacy. teing the ary and i Copper- 5 House, it to be mt. ire; and V, WHAT he 28th. 2d it out rgy too. abt that re was a jfined to and the he name ily these )bserva- {.ookery, And the aunched eset him . To-day want to le at the ing, and ict, as he the long orning." vhen not .ble, but, idict had :e on the e seeined musician The Life of Charles Dickens 541 1 fanng m this respect hardly so well as the famous bard, by whose protracted sufferings in the library, whither he had been removed, the sanitary help available on the establishment was citill absorbed: and as Dickens had been eloquent during dinner on the atrocities of a pauper-farming case at Tooting which was then exciting a fury of indignation, Fonblanque now declared him to be no better himself than a second Drouet. reducing his guests to a lamentable state by the food he had given them, and aggravating their sad condition by absence of all proper nursing. The joke was well kept up by Quin and Edwm Landseer, Lord Strangford joining in with a tragic sympathy for his friend the poet; and the banquet so dolefully interrupted elided m uproarious mirth. For nothing really serious had happened. Benedict went laughing away with his wife, and I helped Rogers on with his over-shoes for his usual night-walk home. "Do you know how many waistcoats I wear?" asked the poet of me. as I was doing him this service. I professed my inability to guess. "Five" he said: "and here they are!" Upon which he opened them, in the manner of the grave-digger in Hamlet, and showed me every one. That dinner was in the April 1849. . . . The month of May was that of the start of David Copperfield, and to one more dinner (on the 12th) I may especially refer for those who were present at it. Carlyle and Mrs. Carlyle came, Thackeray and Rogers, Mrs. Gaskell and Kenyon, Jerrold and Hablot Browne, with Mr. and Mrs. Tagart; and it was a delight to see the enjoyment of Dickens at Carlyle's laughing reply to questions about his health, that he was. in the language of Mr. Peggotty's housekeeper, a lorn lone creature and everything went contrairy with him. Things were not hkely to go better, I thought, as I saw the great writer— kindest as well as wisest of men. but not very patient under sentimental philosophies— seated next the good Mr. Tagart, who soon was heard launching at him various metaphysical questions in regard to heaven and such like; and the relief was great when Thackeray introduced, with quaint whimsicality, a story which he and I had just heard Macready relate in talking to us about his boyish days, of a country actor who had supported himself for six months on his judicious, treatment of the "tag" to the Castle Spectre. In the original it stands that you are to do away with suspicion, banish vile mistrust, and. almost in the words we had just heard from the minister to the philosopher. "Believe there is a heaven, nor doubt that heaven is just!" in place of which Macready's friend, observing that the drop fell for the most part quite coldly, substituted one night the more telling appeal, "And give us your Applause, for that is always JUST !" which brought down the house with rapture. . , Some incidents that belong specially to the three years that closed his residence in the home thus associated with not the least interest- ing pui t oi liis career, will further show what now were his occupa- tions and ways of life. In the summer of 1849 he came up from Broad- stairs to attend a Mansion House dinner, which the lord mayor of ii iS I I 1 r. 542 The Life of Charles Dickens m l'J!j that day had been moved by a laudable ambition to give to " litera- ture and art," which he supposed would be adequately represented by the Royal Academy, the contributors to Punch, Dickens, and one or two newspaper men. On the whole the result was not cheering; the worthy chief magistrate, no doubt quite undesignedly, expressing too much surprise at the unaccustomed faces around him to be altogether complimentary. In general (this was the tone) we are in the habit of having princes, dukes, ministers, and what not for our guests, but what a delight, all the greater for being unusual, to see gentlemen like you! In other words, what could possibly be pleasanter than for people satiated with greatness to get for a while by way of change into the butler's pantry? This in substance was Dickens's account to me next day, and his reason for having been very careful in his acknowledgment of the toast of "The Novelists." He was nettled not a little therefore by a jesting allusion to himself in the Daily News in connection with the proceedings, and asked me to fonvard a remon- strance. Having a strong dislike to all such displays of sensitiveness, I suppressed the letter; but it is perhaps worth printing now. Its date is Broadstairs, Wednesday, ii July, 1849. "I have no other interest in, or concern with, a most facetious article on last Saturday's dinner at the Mansion House, which appeared in your paper of yesterday, and found its way here to-day, than that it misrepresents me in what I said on the occasion. If you shoukl not think it at all damaging to the wit of that satire to state what I did say, I shall be much obliged to you. It was this. . . . That I considered the compliment of a recognition of Literature by the citizens of London the more accept- able to us because it was unusual in that hall, and likely to be an advantage and benefit to them in proportion as it became in future less unusual. That, on behalf of the novelists, I accepted the tribute as an appropriate one; inasmuch as we had sometimes reason to hope that our imaginary worlds afEorded an occasional refuge to men busily •engaged in the toils of life, from which they came forth none the worse to a renewal of its strivings; and certainly that the chief magistrate of the greatest city in the world might be fitly regarded as the representative of that class of our readers." Of an incident towards the close of the year, though it had import- ant practical results, brief mention will here suffice. We saw the Mannings executed on the walls of Horsemonger Lane Gaol; and with the letter which Dickens wrote next day to The Times descriptive of what we had witnessed on that memorable morning, there began an active agitation against public executions which never ceased until "the salutary change was effected whv' 11 has worked so well, . . . The chief occupation of the past and present year, David Copper- field, win have a section to itself, and in this may be touched but lightly. Once fairly in it, the story bore him irresistibly along; cer- tainly with less trouble to himself in the composition, beyond that ardent sympathy with the creatures of the fancy which always made ;so absolutely real to him their sufferings or sorrows; and he was " litera- resented and one •ing; the ising too together habit of sts, but [nen like ;han for ■ change :ount to il in his tied not News in , remon- iveness, Its date interest s dinner sterday, in what aging to I obliged jnt of a i accept- :o be an n future ; tribute to hope in busily tone the he chief egarded import- saw the ind with iptive of »egan an ed until Copper- hed but >ng; cer- ind that ys made he was The Life of Charles Dickens 543 probably never less harassed by interruptions or breaks in his invention. His princii.il hesitation occurred in connection with the child-wife Dora, who had become a great favourite as he went on; and It was shortly after her fate had been decided, in the early autumn of 1850, but I jfore she bren^hed her last, that a third daughter was born to him, to whom he gave his dying little heroine's name. On these ; id c ,ner points, without forestalling what waits to be said of the composition of this fine story, a few illustrative words from his letters will properly find a place here. "Copperfield half done," he wrote of the second number on 6 June. "I feel, thank God, quite confident in the story. I have a move in it ready for this month; another for next; and another for the next." "I think it is necessary" (15 Novcmbc.) "to decide against the special pleader. Yor reasons quite suftice. I am not sure but that the banking house mignt do. X will consider it in a walk." "Banking business impractic- able" (17 November) "on account of the confinement: which would stop the story, I foresee. I have taken, for the present at all events, the proctor. I am wonderfully in harness, and nothing galls or frets." ''Copperfield done" (.:o November) "after two days' very hard work indeed; and I think a smashing number. His first dissipation I hope will be found worthy of attention, as a piece of grotesque truth." "I feel a great hope" (23 January. 1850) "that I shall be remembered by little Em'ly, a good many years to come." "I begin to have my doubts of being able to join you" (20 February), "for Copperfield runs high, and must be done to-morrow. But I'll do it if possible, and strain every nerve. Some beautiful comic love, I hope, in the number." "Still undecided about Dora" (7 May), "but must decide to-day." "I have been" (Tuesday. 20 August) "very hard at work these three days, and have still Dora to kill. But with good luck, I may do it to-morrow. Obliged to go to Shepherd's Bush to-day, and can con- sequently do little this morning. Am eschewing all sorts of things that present themselves to my fancy — coming in such crowds!" "Work in a very decent state of advancement" (13 August) "domesticity not- withstanding. I hope I shall have a splendid number. I feel the story to its minutest point." "Mrs, Micawber is still" (15 August). "I regret to say, in statu quo. Ever yours, Wilkins Micawber." The little girl was born the next day. the i6th. and received the name of Dora Annie. The most part of what remained of the year was passed away from home. The year following did not open with favourable omen, both the child and its mother having severe illness. The former rallied, how- ever, and "little Dora is getting on bravely, thank God!" was his bulletin of the early part of February. Soon after, it was resolved to make trial of Great Malvern for Mrs. Dickens; and lodgings were taken there in March. Dickens and her sister accompanying her, and the children being left in London. "It is a most beautiful place," he wrote to me (15 March). "O Heaven, to meet the Cold Waterers (as I did this morning when I went out for a shower-bath) dashing down ai '.\ \V w 544 The Life of Charles Dickens the hills, with severe expressions on their countenances, like men doing matches and not exactly winning! Then, a young lady in a grey polka going up the hills, regardless of legs; and meeting a young gentleman (a bad case, I should say) with a light black silk cap on under his hat, and the pimples of I don't know how many douches under that. Likewise an old man who ran over a milk-child, rather than stop! — with no neckcloth, on principle; and with his mouth wide open to catch the morning air," He had to return to London after the middle of March, for business connected with a charitable Home established at Shepherd's Bush by Miss Coutts in the benevolent hope of rescuing fallen women by testing their fitness for emigration, frequently mentioned in his letters, and which largely and regularly occupied his time for several years. On this occasion his stay was prolonged by the illness of his father, whose health had been failing latterly and graver symptoms were now spoken of. "I saw my poor father twice yesterday," he v^Tote to me on the 27th, "the second time between ten and eleven at night. In the morning I thought him not so well. At night, as well as anyone in surh a situation could be." Next day he was so much better tnat his son went back to Malvern: but the end came suddenly. We were expecting him at Knebworth, and I supposed that some accident had detained him in Malvern; but at my return this letter waited me. "Devonshire Terrace, Monday, thirty-first of March, 1851. . . . My poor father died this morning at five and twenty minutes to six. They had sent for me to Malvern, but I passed John on the railway. . . . Arrived at eleven last night, and was in Keppel Street at a quarter past eleven. He did not know me, nor anyone. He began tc sink at about noon yesterday, and never rallied afterwards. I remained there until he died — O so quietly. ... I hardly know what to do. I am going up to Highgate to get the ground. Perhaps you may like to go, and I should like it if you do. I will not leave h'^re before two o'clock, but I must go down to Malvern again, at night. . . ." Mr. John Dickens was laid in Highgate Cemetery on 5 April; and the stone placed over him by the son who has made his name a famous one in England, bore tribute to his "zealous, useful, cheerful spirit." What more is to be said of him will be mc i becomingly said in speaking of David Copper- fijsld. While the book was in course of being written, all that had been best in him came more and more vividly back to its author's memory; as time wore on, nothing else was remembered; and five years before his own death, after using in one of his letters to me a phrase rather out of the common with him, this was added: "I find this looks like my poor father, whom I regard as a better man the longer I live." He was at this time under promise to take the chair at the General Theatrical Fund on 14 April. Great efforts were made to relieve him from the promise: but such special importance was attached to his being present, ana the Fund so sorely then required help, that, no change of day being found po isible for the actors who desired to i h The Life of Charles Dickens 545 ike men idy in a eeting a lack silk w many Ik-child, with his eturn to I with a ^outts in ir fitness [1 largely ision his lad been saw my th, "the jrning I su'-h a ; his son xpecting detained vonshire »r father iiad sent Arrived ter past at about ere until ^oing up o, and I :k, but I Dickens ced over nd, bore is to be Copper- lad been nemory; s before ;e rather lis looks 5 longer General eve him d to his that, no sired to attend, he yielded to the pressure put upon him; of which the r^eult was to throw upon me a sad responsibility. The reader will understand why, even at this distance of time, my allusion to it is brief. The train from Malvern brought him up only five minutes short of the hour appointed for the dinner, and we first met that day at the London Tavern. I never heard him to greater advantage than in the speech that followed. His liking for this Fund was the fact of its not confining its benefits to any special or exclusive body of actors, but opening them undoubtingly to all; and he gave a description of the kind of actor, going down to the innnitesimally small, not omitted from such kind help, which had a half-pathetic humour in it that makes it charming still. "In our Fund," he said, "the word exclusive- ness is not known. We include every actor, whether he be Hamlet or Benedict: the ghost, the bandit, or the court physician; or, in his one person, the whole king's army. He may do the light business, or the heavy, or the comic, or the eccentric. He may be the captain who courts the young lady, whose uncle still unaccountably persists in dressing himself in a costume one hundred years older than his time. Or he may be the young lady's brother in the white gloves and inexpressibles, whose duty in the family appears to be to listen to the female members of it whenever they sing, and to shake hands with everybody between all the verses. Or he may be the baron who gives the fdte, and wi>o sits uneasily on the sofa under a canopy with the baroness while the fete is going on. Or he may be the peasant at the fete who conies on to the stage to swell the drinking chorus, and who, it may hd observed, always turns his glass upside down before he begins to drink out of it. Or he may be the clown who takes away the doorstep of the house where the evening party is going on. Or he may be the gentleman who issues out of the house on the faJse alarm, and is precipitated into the area. Or, if an actress, she may be the fairy who resides for ever in a revolving star with an occasional visit to a bower or a palace. Or again, if an actor, he may be the armed head of the witch's cauldron; or even that extraordinary witch concerning whom I have observed in country places, that he is much less like the notion formed from the description of Hopkins than the Malcolm or Donalbain of the previous scenes. This society, in short, says, ' Be you what you may, be you actor or actress, be your path in your profession never so high or never so low, never so haughty or never so humble, we offer you the means of doing good to yourselves, and of doing good to your brethren.' " Half an hour before he rose to speak I had been called out of the room. It was the servant from Devonshire Terrace to tell me his child Dora was suddenly dead. She had not been strong from her birth; but there was just at this time no cause for special fear, when un- expected convulsions came, and the frail little life nassed awav. Mv decision had to be formed at once; and I satisfied myself that it would be best to permit his part of the proceedings to close before the truth 33^ ' ^1 . r !',, 546 The Life of Charles Dickens was told to him. But as he went on, after the sentences I have quoted, to speak of actors having to come from scenes and sickness, of suffering, aye, even of death itself, to play their parts before us, my part was very difficult. "Yet how often is it with all of us," he pro- ceeded to nay, and I remember to this hour with what anguish I listened t-* w<n<!., that had for myself alone, in all the crowded room, thtir full 'ir ificance: "how often is it with all of us, that in our several spheres we have to do violence to our feelings, and to hide our hearts in carrying on this fight of life, if we would bravely discharge in it our duties and responsibilities." In the disclosure that followed when he left the chair, Mr. Lemon, who was present, assisted me; and I left this good frici ) iili him next day, when I went myself to Malvern and brought back Mrs. Dickens and her sister. The little child lies in a grave at Highgate near that of Mr. and Mrs. John Dickens; and on the stone which covers her is now written also her father's name, and those of two of her brothers. One more public discussion he took part in, before quitting London for the rest of the summer; and what he said (it was a meeting, with Lord Carlisle in the chair, in aid of Sanitary reform) very pregnantlv illustrates what was remarked by me on a former page. He declared his belief that neither education nor religion could do anything really useful in social improvement until the way had been paved for their ministrations by cleanliness and decency. He spoke warmly of the services of Lord Ashley in connection with ragged schools, but he put the case of a miserable child tempted into one of those schools out of the noisome places in which his life was passed, and he asked what a few hours' teaching could effect against the ever-renewed lesson of a whole existence. "But give him, and his, a glimpse of heaven through a little of its light and air; give them water; help them to be clean; lighten the heavy atmosphere in which their spirits flag, and which makes them the callous things they are; take the body of the dead relative from the room where the living live with it, and where such loathsome familiarity deprives death itself of awe; and then, but not before, they will be brought willingly to hear of Him whose thoughts were so much with the wretched, and who had compassion for all human sorrow." He closed hy proposing Lord Ashley's health as having preferred the higher ambition of labouring for the poor to that of pursuing the career open to him In the service of the State; and as having also had "the courage on all occasions to face the cant which is the worst and commonest of all, the cant about the cant of philanthropy." Lord Shaftesbury first dined with him in the following year at Tavistock House. Shortly after the Sanitary meeting, came the first Guild perform- ances; and then Dickens left Devonshire Terrace, never to return to it. With intervals of absence, chiefly at the Guild representations, he stayed in his favourite Fort House by the sea until October, when he took possession of Tavistock House. ... It was not until the end of November, when he had settled himself ! quoted, cness, of e us, my ' he pro- nguish I sd room, t in our hide our lischarge followed me; and lyself to :tle child Dickens; father's London ng, with jgnantly declared ig really for their y of the it he put ools out :ed what [esson of heaven jm to be lag, and ly of the id where hen, but n whose apassion s health ! poor to le State; the cant ; cant of ollowing jerform- eturn to tions, he ;r. when w H o « Z w u •-< • » o U H H O s u < M H OS Q h) M •-• fa Ci« M a o §a 5| q5 2 : ft a (A O X ■ D !H I himself inh hap ace; thii Cof I pag mr; ann Die Cof in s moi abo defi Chv var wit! intc aut pas Oct stra Oh, me insi Sha 1 moi dis^ no"v was Fie as :J self !___ tree fan The Life of Charles Dickens 549 in his new London abode, that the book was begun (and as generally happeued with the more important incidents of his life, though always accidentally, begun on a Friday); but precedence is due, before any- thing nt>re is said of Bleak House, to what remains to be said of Cop ' ./'jtV. It vas '.he last book written in Devonshire Terrace; and on the page o^3i.'te is engraved a drawing by Maclise of this house where so mr uy <. ' ' .ckens's masterpieces were composed, do e on the first anriiverfiiy of the day when his daughter Kate was bom. VI "david copperfield" 1850 Dickens never stood so high in reputation as at the completion of Copperfield. From the first it had surpassed in popularity, though not in sale, all his previous books excepting Pickwick. "You gratify me more than I can tell you," he wrote to Lytton, "by what you say about Copperfield, because I hope myself that some heretofore deficient qualities are there." If the power was not greater than in Chuzzlewit, the subject had more attractiveness; there was more variety of incident, with a freer play of character; and there was withal a suspicion, which though" general and vague had sharpened interest not a little, that underneath the fiction lay something of the author's life. How much was not known by the world until he had passed away. When engaged upon its close he had written thus (21 October, 1850): "I am within three pages of the shore; and am strangely divided, as usual in such cases, between sorrow and joy. Oh, my dear Forster, if I were to say half of what Copperfield makes me feel to-night, how strangely, even to you, I should be turned inside-out! I seem to be sending some part of myself into the Shadowy World." To be acquainted with English literature is to know that into its most famous prose fiction autobiography has entered largely in disguise, and that the characters most familiar to us in the English novel had originals in actual life. Smollett never wrote a story that was not in some degree a recollection of his own adventures; and Fielding, who put something of his wife into all his heroines, had been as fortunate in finding, not Trulliber only, but Parson Adams him- self, among his living experiences. To come later down, there was tixTjiixijxj xiau. nuX i % ■ r § treasured up something to give minuter reality to the people of his fancy; and we know exactly whom to look for in Dandie Dinmont I-* *i -I? 550 The Life of Charles Dickens and Jcnathar. Oldbuck, in the office of Alan Fairford and the sick- room of Crystal Croftangry. We are to observe also that it is never anything complete that is thus taken from life by a genuine writer, but only leading traits, or such as may give greater finish; that the fine artist will embody in his portraiture of one person his experiences cf fifty; and that this would have been Fielding's answer to Trulliber if he had objected to the pigsty, and to Adams if he had sought to make a case of scandal out of the affair in Mrs. Slipslop's bedroom Such questioning befell Dickens repeatedly in the course of his \vritmgs. where he freely followed, as we have seen, the method thus common to the masters in his art; but there was an instance of alleged wrong m the course of Copperfield where he felt his vindication to be hardly complete, and what he did thereupon was characteristic. "I have had the queerest adventure this morning," he wrote {28 December, 1849) on the eve of his tenth number, "the receipt of the enclosed from Miss Moucher! It is serio-comic, but there is no doubt one IS wrong in being tempted to such a use of power." Thinking a grotesque little oddity among hib acquaintance to be safe from recognition he had done what Smollett did sometimes, but never Fielding, and give" way, in the first outburst of fun that had broken out around the fancy, to the temptation of copying too closely peculiarities of figure and face amounting in effect to deformity He was shocked at discovering the pain he had given, and a copy is before me of the assurances by way of reply which he at once sent to the complainant. That he was grieved and surprised beyond meas.2re. That he had not intended her altogether. That all his characters, being made up out of many people, were composite and never individual. That the chair (for table) and other matters were uncoubtedly from her, but that other traits were not hers at all- and that m Miss Moucher's "Ain't I volatile " his friends had quite cor- rectly recognised the favourite utterance of a different person, '^hat he felt nevertheless he had done wrong, and would now do anything to repair it. That he had intended to employ the character in an unpleasant way, but he would, whatever the risk or inconvenience, change it all, so that nothing but an agreeable impression should be left. The reader will remember how this was managed, and that the thirty-second chapter went far to undo what the twenty-second had dt^:e , . In the book that followed Copperfield, characters appeared having resemblances in manner and speech to distinguished writers too vivid to be mistaken by their personal friends. To Lawrence JSoythorn under whom Landor figured, no objection was made; but Harold Skimpole, recognisable for Leigh Hunt, led to much remark; the difference being, that ludicrous traits were employed in the first to enrich without impairing an attractive person in the tale, whereas to the last was assigned a part in the plot which no fascinating foibles or gaieties of speech could redeem from contempt. Though a want cf consideration was thus shown to the friend " •UrVlQ|Y» •M ■*, The Life of Charles Dickens 551 I I ^hat would be likely to recall to many readers, it is nevertheless very cer- tain that the intention of Dickens was not at first, or at ariy tinij*, an unkind one. He erred from thoughtlessness only. What led him to the subject at all, he has himself stated. Hunt's philosophy of moneyed obligations, always, though loudly, half jocosely proclaimed, and his ostentations wilfulness in the humouring of that or any other theme on which he cared for the time to expatiate, had so often seemed to Dickens to be whimsical and attractive, that, wanting an "airy quality" for the man he invented, this of Hunt occurred to him; and "partly for that reason, and partly, he hts since often grieved to think, for the pleasure it afforded to find « ielightful manner repro- ducing itself under his hand, he yielded to the temptation of too often making the character speak like his old friend." This apology was made after Hunt's death,* and mentioned a revision of the first sketch, so as to render it less like, at the suggestion of two oth^r friends of Hunt. The friends were Procter (Barry Cornwall) and myself; the feeling having been mine from the first that the likeness was too like. Procter did not immediately think so, but a little reflection brought him to that opinion. "You will see from the en- closed," Dickens wrote (17 March, 1852), "that Procter is much of my mind. I will nevertheless go through the character again in the course of the afternoon, and soften down words here and there." But before the day closed Procter had again written to him, and next morning this was the result. "I have again gone over every part of it very carefully, and I think I have made it much less like. I have also changed Leonard to Harold. I have no right to give Hunt pain, and I am so bent upon not doing it that I wish you would look at all the proof once more, and indicate any particular place in which you feel it particularly like. Whereupon I will alter the place." Upon the whole the alterations were considerable, but the radical wrong remained. The pleasant sparkling airy talk, which could not be mistaken, identified with odious qualities a friend only known to the writer by attractive ones; and for this there was no excuse. Per- haps the only person acquainted with the original who failed to recognise the copy, was the original himself (a common case); but good-natured friends in time told Hunt everything, and painful explanations followed, where notiiing was possible to Dickens but what amounted to a friendly evasion of the points really at issue. The time for redress had gone. I yet well remember with wh£.v eager earnestness, on one of these occasions, he strove to set Hunt up again in his own esteem. "Separate in your own mind," he said to him, ' ' what you see of yourself from what other people tell you that they see. As it has given you so much pain, 1 take it at its worst, and say 1 am deeply sorry, and that I fee) I did wrong in doing it. I should otherwise have taken it at its best, and ridden off upon what I strongly feel to be the truth, that there is nothing in it that should 1 ? In a paper m All the Ysut Rouui, 552 The Life of Charles Dickens ii ' have given you pain. Everyone in writing must speak from points of his experience, and so I of mine with you: but when I have felt it was going too close I stopped myself, and the most blotted parts of my MS. are those in which I have been striving hard to make the im- pression I was writing from, Mwlike you. The diary-writing I took from Haydon, not from you. I now first learn from yourself that you ever set anything to music, and I could not have copied that from you. The character is not you, for there are traits in it common to fifty thousand people besides, and I did not fancy you would ever recognise it. Under similar disguises my own father and mother are in my books, and you might as well see your likeness in Micawber." The distinction is that the foibles of Mr. Micawber and of Mrs. Nickle- by, however laughable, make neither of them in speech or character less lovable; and that this is not to be said of Skimpole's. The kindly or unkindly impression makes all the difference where liberties are taken with a friend; and even this entirely favourable condition will rot excuse the practice to many, where near relatives are concerned. For what formerly was said of the Micawber resemblances, Dickens has been sharply criticised; and in like manner it was thought objec- tionable in Scott that for the closing scenes of Crystal Croftangry he should have found the original of his fretful patient at the death-bed of his own father. Lockhart, who tells us this, adds with a sad sig- nificance that he himself lived to see the curtain fall at Abbotsford upon even such another scene, bat to no purpose will such objections still be made. All great novelists will continue to use their experiences of nature and fact, whencesoever derivable; and a remark made to Lockhart by Scott himself suggests their vindication. "If a man will paint from nature, he will be most likely to interest and amuse those who are daily looking at it." The Micawber offence otherwise was not grave. We have seen in what way Dickens was moved or inspired by the rough lessons of his boyhood, and the groundwork of the character was then undoubtedly laid; but the rhetorical exuberance impressed itself upon him later, and from this, as it expanded and developed in a thousand amusing ways, the full-length figure took its great charm. Better illustration of it could not perhaps be given than by passages from letters of Dickens, written long before Micawber was thought of, in which this peculiarity of his father found frequent and always agreeable expression. Several such have been given in this work from time to time, and one or two more may here be added. It is proper to preface them by saying that no one could know the elder Dickens without secretly liking him the better for these flourishes of speech, which adapted themselves so readily to his gloom as well as to his cheerful- ness, that it was difficult not to fancy they had helped him consider- ably in both, and had rendered more tolerable to him, if also more possible, the shade and sunshine of his chequered life. "If you should have an opportunity, pendente lite, as my fathf r would observe — indeed did on some memorable ancient occasions when he informed The Life of Charles Dickens 553 me that the ban-dogs would shortly have him at bay"— Dickens wrote m December 1847. "I have a letter from my father" (May 1841) "lamenting the fine weather, invoking congenial tempests, and mformmg me that it will not be possible for him to stay Tiore than another year in Devonshire, as he must then proceed to Paris to con- solidate Augustus's French." "There has arrived." he writes from the Peschiere m September 1844, "a characteristic letter for Kate from my father. He dates it Manchester, and says he has reason to believe that he will be in town with the pheasants, on or about the first of October. He has been with Fanny in the Isle of Man for nearly two months: finding there, as he goes on to observe, troops of friends, and every description of continental luxury at a cheap rate." Describing in the same year the departure from Genoa of an English physician and acquaintance, he adds: "We are very sorry to lose the bei.sfit of his advice— or, as my father would say, to be deprived, to a certain extent, of the concomitant advantages, whatever they m?^' be. resulting from his medical skill, such as it is, and his professional attendance, in so far as it may be so considered." Thus also it delighted Dickens to remember that it was of one of his connections his father wrote a celebrated sentence; "And I must express my tendency to believe that his longevity is (to say the least of it) extremely problematical": and that it was to another, who had been insisting somewhat obtrusively on dissenting and nonconformist superiorities, he addressed wordiP which deserve to be no less cele- brated; "The Supreme Being must be an entirely different individual from what I have every reason to believe Him to be, if He would care in the least for the society of your relations." There was a laugh in the enjoyment of all this, no doubt, but with it much personal fondness; and the feeling of the creator of Micawber, as be thus humoured and remembered the foibles of his original, found its counterpart in that of his readers for the creation itself, as its part was played ou+ in the story. Nobody likes Micawber less for his follies; and D.ckens liked his father more, the more he recalled his whimsical qualities. "The longer I live, the better man I think him," he exc):iimed afterwards. The fact and the fancy had united whatever was most grateful to him in both. it is a tribute to the generally healthful and manly tone 01 the story of ^ypper field that such should be the outcome o^ the eccentrici- ties 01 mis leading personage in it; and the juperirr:. in this respect of Micawber over Skimpole is one of the many indications of the inferiority of Bleak House to its predecessor. With leading resem- ^•lancc 3 that make it difficult to say which characi. ■ best represents the principle or no principle of imp-cuniosity, there cannot be any doubt which has the advantage in moral and intellectual development . I:. IS grnuine humour against personal satire. Between the worldly cir- c -imstances of the two, there is nothing to chons- • but as vO everything els<> xt Is the difference be tv\ een shabbiness ' greatness. Skimpole's sunny talk might be exoected to olease s much €*t3 iTJLaVCt TT L^lwl. i. II I* f' ? f- j II If! 33! 554 The Life of Charles Dickens gorgeous speech, the design of both being to take the edge off poverty But in the one we have no relief from attendant meanness or distress, and we drop down from the airiest fancies into sordidness and pain; whereas in the other nothing pitiful or merely selfish ever touches us. At its lowest depth of what is worst, we never doubt that something better must turn up; and of a man who sells his bedstead that he may entertain his friend, we altogether refuse to think nothing but badly. This is throughout the free and cheery style of Copperfield. The masterpieces of Dickens s humour are not in it; but he has nowhere given such variety of play to his invention, and the book is un- approached among his writings for its completeness of effect and uniform pleasantness of tone. What has to be said hereafter of those writings generally, will properly restrict what is said here, as in previous instances, mainly to personal illustration. The Copperfield disclosures formerly made will for ever connect the book with the author's individual story; but too much has been assumed, from those revelations, of a full identity of Dickens with his hero, and of a supposed intention that his own character as well as parts of his career should be expressed in the narrative. It is right to warn the reader as to this. He can judge for himself how far the childish experiences are likely to have given the turn to Dickens's genius; whether their bitterness had so burnt into his nature, as, in the hatred of oppression, the revolt against abuse of power, and the war with injustice under every form displayed in his earliest books, to have reproduced itself only; and to what extent mere compassion for his own childhood may ac^ nt for the strange fascination always exerted over him by child ■ -ing and sorrow. But, many as are the resemblances in Copp 's adventures to portions of those of Dickens, and often as re£e<v ns occur to David which no one intimate with Dickens could fail to recognise as but the reproduction of his, it would be the greatest mista ke to imagine any- thing like a complete identity of the fictitious novelist with the real one, beyond the Hungerford scenes; or to suppose that the youth, who then received his first harsh schooling in life, came out of it as little harmed or hardened as David did. The language of the fiction reflects only faintly the narrative of the actual fact; and the man whose character it helped to form was expressed not less faintly in the impulsive impressionable youth, incapable of resisting*the leading of others, and only disciplined into self-control by the later griefs of his entrance . into manhood. Here was but another proof how thoroughly Dickens understood his calling, and that to weave fact \ h fiction unskilfully would be only to make truth less true. The character of the hero of the novel finds indeed his right place in the story he is supposed to tell, rather by unlikeness than by likeness to Dickens, even where intentional resemblance might seem to be prominent. Take autobiography as a design to show that any man's life may be as a mirror of existence to all men, and the iidividual career becomes altogether secondary to the variety of f poverty r distress, and pain; )uches us. lomething it he may mt badly. field. The ; nowhere ok is un- ;fiect and •ally, will mainly to made will ■f, but too ientity of : his own ed in the judge for given the >urnt into nst abuse played in lat extent le strange d sorrow, ntures to to David 13 but the gine any- ti the real le youth, it of it as he fiction the man faintly in le leading iter griefs •roof how eave fact rue. ght place than by ight seem that any and the 'ariety of The Life of Charles Dickens 555 experiences received and rendered back in it. This particular form in imaginative literature has too often led to the indulgence of mental analysis, metaphysics, and sentiment, all in excess: but Dickens was carried safely over these allurements by a healthy judgment and sleepless creative fancy; and even the method of his narrative is more simple here than it generally is in his books. His imaginative growths have less luxuriance of underwood, and the crowds of external images always rising so vividly before him are more within control. Consider Copperfield thus in his proper place in the story, and sequence as well as connection v/ill be given to the varieties of its childish adventure. The first warm nest of love in which his vain fond mother, and her quaint kind servant, cherish him; the quick- following contrast of hard dependence and servile treatment; the escape from that premature and dwarfed maturity by natural relapse into a more perfect childhood; the then leisurely growth of emotions and faculties into manhood; these are component parts of a character consistently drawn. The sum of its achievement is to be a successful cultivation of letters; and often as such imaginary discipline has been the theme of fiction, there are not many happier conceptions of it. The ideal and real parts of the boy's nature receive development in the proportions which contribute best to the end desired; the readiness for impulsive attachments that had put him into the leading of others, has underneath it a base of truthfulness on which at last he rests in safety; the practical man is the outcome of the fanciful youth; and a more than equivalent for the graces of his visionary days, is found in the active sympathies that life has opened to him. Many experiences have come within its range, and his heart has had room for all. Our interest in him cannot but be increased by knowing how much he expresses of what the author had himself gone through; but David includes far less than this, and infinitely more. That the incidents arise easily, and to the very end connect them- selves naturally and unobtrusively with the characters of which they are apar*:, is to be said perhaps more truly of this than of any other of Dickens's novels. There is a profusion of distinct and distinguishable people, and a prodigal wealth of detail; but unity of drift or purpose is apparent always, and the tone is uniformly right. By the course of the events we learn the value of self-denial and patience, quiet endurance of unavoidable iWs, strenuous effort against ills remediable; and everything in the fortunes of the actors warns us, to strengthen on? generous emotions and to guard the purities of home. It is easy t- us to account for the supreme popularity of Copperfield, without the addi ■'>n that it can hardly have had a reader, man or lad, who did not discover that he was something of a Copperfield himself. Child- hood and youth live again for all of us in its raarveWous boy-expe- riences. Mr. Micawber's presence must not prevent my saying that it does not take the lead of the other novels in humorous creation; but in the usfi of hiimonr to brinor nnf r«rr»minATTfltr +Vio 1ii/4i^f^iio in ««,, ■ - ■■" any ,1 I m 'A V 1' n ( ^^ ♦ a 556 The Life of Charles Dickens ,i' JW m object or incident without excluding or weakening its most enchant- ing sentiment, it stands decidedly first. It is the perfection of English mirth. We are apt to resent the exhibition of too much goodness, but it is here so qualified by oddity as to become not merely palatable but attractive; and even pathos is heightened by what in other hands would only make it comical. That there are also faults in the book is certain, but none that are incompatible with the most masterly qualities; and a book becomes everlasting by the fact, not that faults are not in it, but that genius nevertheless is there. Of its method, and its author's generally, in the delineation ot character, something will have to be said on a later page. The author's own favourite people in it, I think, were the Peggotty group; and perhaps he was not far wrong. It has been their fate, as with all the leading figures of his invention, to pass their names into the language, and become types; and he has nowhere given happier embodiment to that purity of homely goodness, which, by the kindly and all- reconciling influences of humour, may exalt into comeliness and even grandeur the clumsiest forms of humanity. What has been indicated in the style of the book as its greatest charm is here felt most strongly. The ludicrous so helps the pathos, and the humour so uplifts and refines the sentiment, that mere rude affection and simple manliness in these Yarmouth boatmen, passed through the fires of unmerited suffering and heroic endurance, take forms half-chivalrous, half- sublime. It is one of the cants of critical superiority to make super- cilious mention of the serious passages in this great v/riter; but the storm and shipwreck at the close of Copperfield, when the body of the seducer is flung dead upon the shore amid the ruins of the home he has wasted and by the side of the man whose heart he has broken, the one,as unconscious of what he had failed to reach as the other of what he has perished to save, is a description that may compare with the most impressive in the language. And to those who, knowing Dickens best, know what realities his books were to him, the ex- pression of his sense of suffering in composing such passages, will have in it not a grain of pretence or affectation. "I have been tremendously at work these two days" (15 September), "eight hours at a stretch yesterday, and si>: hours and a half to-day, with the Ham and Steer- forth chapter, which has completely knocked me over — utterly defeated me." . . . Of the heroines who divide so equally between them the impulse, easily swayed, not disloyal but sorely distracted affections of the hero, the spoilt f oolishm ss and tenderness of the loving little child- wife, Dora, is more attrav tive than the too unfailing wisdom and self- sacrificing goodness of the angel- wife, Agnes. The scenes of the courtship and housekeeping are matchless; and the glimpses of Doctors' Commons, opening those views, by Mr. Spenlow, of man's vanity of expectation and inconsistency of conduct in neglecting the sacred duty of making a will, on which he largely moralises the day form a backsTouTid hi^^hl'"' enchant- f English ness, but table but er hands e book is masterlj- lat faults sation ot author's 3up; and :h all the anguage. iment to and all- md even ndicated strongly, lifts and lanliness imerited us, half- ce super- but the dy of the home he I broken, other of )are with knowing the ex- will have sndously 1 stretch id Steer- — utterly impulse, is of the tie child- and self- s of the npses of of man's Dting the 1 the day The Life of Charles Dickens 557 David's domesticities. This was among the reproductions of personal experience in the book; but it was a sadder knowledge that came with the conviction some years later, that David's contrasts in his earliest married life between his happiness enjoyed and his happiness once anticipated, the "vague unhappy loss or want of something" of which he so frequently complains, reflected also a personal expe- rience which had not been supplied in fact so successfully as in fiction. ; r 111 : I ! ;; BOOK SEVENTH CONTINENT REVISITED 1852-6. mj. 40-43 I. "Bleak House" and "Hard Times." II. Home Incidents. III. In Switzerland and Italy. IV. Three Summers at Boulogne. V. Residence in Paris. ■Itii f i 'I I i; : .i , ,,. 559 'Mk I "bleak house" and "hard times" 1852-6 These books were written between i 851 and 1854, when for a portion of the time the authc^r was living abroad; and, reserving to another section the home life that filled the same interval, some account of both novels will be given here. Little Dornt, though begun in Paris, was not finished until some time after the continental residence had closed, <nd belongs therefore to a later division. David Copperfield had be( i written between the opening of 1849 and October 1850, its publication covering that time; and its sale, which has since taken the 1' id of all his books but Pickwick, never then exceeding twenty- five thousand. But though it remained thus steady for the time, the popularity of the book added largely to the sale of its successor. Bleak House was begun in his new abode of Tavistock House at the end of November 185 1; was carried on, amid the excitements of the Guild performances, through the following year; was finished at Boulogne in the August of 1853; and was dedicated to "his friends and companions in the Guild of Literature and Art." Hard Times was planned and begun in the winter of 1853, amid the busy preparation of Christmas theatricals for his children to be presently described; was finished at Boulogne in the summer of 1854; and was dedicated to Carlyle. The autobiographical form of Copperfield was in some respect con- tinued in Bleak House by means of extracts from the personal relation of its heroine. But the distinction between the narrative of David and the diary of Esther, like that between Micawber and Skimpole, marks the superiority of the first to its successor. . . . What in one sense is a merit, however, may in others be a defect, and this book has suffered by the very completeness with which its Chancery moral is worked out. The didactic in Dickens's earlier novels derived its strength from being merely incidental to interest of a higher and more permanent kind, and not in a small degree from the playful sportiveness and fancy that lighted up its graver illus- trations. Here it is of sterner stuff, too little relieved, and all- pervading. The fog so marvellously painted in the opening chapter has ha'-dly cleared away when there arises, in Jarndyce v. Jarndyce, as bad an atmosphere to breathe in; and thenceforward to the end, clinging round the people of the story as thev come or »q, in dreary mist or in h.avy cloud, it is rarely absent. Dickens°has himself 561 . } i t • i 11^ ^A', ^> ^. .0.. \^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 J50 us m ^i^ IIIIIM 1^ 12.2 III 1.4 2.0 1.8 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 ,V L1>^ ^\ % v 6^ lo 7a I 562 The Life of Charles Dickens described his purpose to have been to dwell on the romantic side of familiar things. But it is the romance of discontent and misery, with a very restless dissatisfied moral, and is too much brought about by agencies disagreeable and sordid. The Guppys, Wee vies, Snagsbys, Chadbands, Krooks, and Smallweeds, even the Kenges, Vholeses, and Tulkinghorns, are much too real to be pleasant; and the necessity becomes urgent for the reliefs and contrasts of a finer humanity. These last are not wanting; yet it must be said that we hardly escape, even with them, into the old freedom and freshness of the author's imaginative worMs, and that the too conscious unconsciousness of Esther flings something of a shade on the radiant goodness of John Jarndyce himself. Nevertheless there are very fine delineations in the story. The crazed little Chancery lunatic, Miss Flite; the loud-voiced tender-souled Chancery victim, Gridley; the poor good-hearted youth, Richard, broken up in life and character by the suspense of the Chancery suit on whose success he is to "begin the world," believin^ himself to be saving money when he is stopped from squandering it! and thinking that having saved it he is entitled to fling it away; trooper George, with the Bagnets and their household, where the most ludicrous points are more forcible for the pathetic touches underlying them; the Jellyby interior, and its philanthropic strong- minded mistress, placid and smiling amid a household muddle out- muddling Chancery itself; the model of deportment, Turveydrop the elder, whose relations to the young people, whom he so superbly patronises by being dependent on them for everything, touch de*- lightfuUy some subtle points of truth; the inscrutable Tulkinghorn, and the immortal Bucket; all these, and especially the last, have been added by this book to the list of people more intimately and permanently known to us than the scores of actual familiar acquaint- ance whom we see around us living and dying. . . . . . . Dickens was encouraged and strengthened in his design of assailing Chancery abuses and delays by receiving, a few days after the appearance of his first number, a striking pamphlet on the subject containing details so apposite that he took from them, withr t change in any material point, the memorable case related in hib fifteenth chapter. Anyone who examines the tract will see how exactly true is the reference to it made by Dickens in his preface. "The case of Gridley is in no essential altered from one of actual occurrence, made public by a disinterested person who was professionally acquainted with the whole of the monstrous wrong from beginning to end." The suit, of which all particulars are given, affected a single farm, in value not more than ;^i2oo, but all that its owner possessed in the world, against which a bill had been filed for a ;^3oo legacy left in the will bequeathing the farm. In reality there was only one defendant, but in the bill, by the rule of the Court, there were seventeen; and, after two years had been occupied over the seventeen answers, everything had to begin over again because an eighteenth had been accidentally omitted. "What a mockery ol justice this is," says Mr. Challinor, glad at \m The Life of Charles Dickens :ic side of lery, with about by Jnagsbys, leses, and necessity umanity. [y escape, author's usness of s of John ms in the id-voiced id youth, je of the belie vin^ dering it, it away; 'here the touches c strong- idle out- drop the superbly ouch de- linghorn, Lst, have tely and .cquaint- iesign of ays after B subject t change fifteenth y true is ! case of ce, made juainted >d." The in value e world, the will ant, but ad, after jrything dentally tiallinor, 563 "the facts speak for themselves, and I can personally vouch for their accuracy. The costs already incurred in reference to this ;^30o legacy are not less than from ;^8oo to ;{9oo, and the parties are no forwarder. Already near live years nave passed by, and the plaintiff would be glad to give up his chance of the legacy if he could escape from his liability to costs, while the defendants who own the little farm left by the testator, have scarce any other prospect before them than ruin." II HOME INCIDENTS 1853-4-5 The first number of Bleak House had appeared in March 1852, and its sale was mentioned in the same letter from Tavistock House ( 7 March) which told of his troubles in the tale at its outset, and of other anxieties incident to the common lot and inseparable equally from its joys and sorrows, through which his life was passing at the time. "My Highgate journey yesterday was a sad one. Sad to think how all journeys tend that way. I went up to the cemetery to look for a piece of ground. In no hope of a Government bill, and in a foolish dislike to leaving the little child shut up in a vault there, I think of pitching a tent under the sky. . . . Nothing has taken place here: but I believe, "every hour, that it must next hour. Wild ideas are upon me of going to Paris — Rouen — Switzerland — somewhere — and writ- ing the remaining two-thirds of the next No. aloft in some queer inn room. I have been hanging over it, and have got restless. Want a change I think. Stupid. We were at 30,000 when I last heard. ... I am sorry to say that after all kinds of evasions, I am obliged to dine at ^ ansdowne House to-morrow. But maybe the affair will come off to-night and give me an excuse! 1 enclose proofs of No. 2. Browne has done Skimpole, and helped to make him singularly unlike the great original. Look it over, and say what occurs to you. . . . Don't you think Mrs. Gaskell charming? With one ill-considered thing that looks like a want of natural perception, I think it masterly." His last allusion is to the story by a delightful writer then appearing in Household V/ords; and of the others it only needs to say that the family affair which might have excused his absence at the Lansdowne dinner did not come off until four days later. On 13 March his last child was born; and the boy, his seventh son, bears his godfather's distinguished name, Edward Bulwer Lytton. The inability to "grind sparks out of this dull blade," as he characterised his present labour at Bleak House, still fretting him, he Ti! i 564 The Life of Charles Dickens I struck out a scheme for Paris. "I could not get to Switzerland very well at this time of year. The Jura would be covered with snow. And if I went to Geneva I don't know where I might not go to." It ended at last in a flight to Dover; but he found time before he left, amid many occupations and some anxieties, for a good-natured journey to Walworth to see a youth rehearse who was supposed to have talents for the stage, and he was able to gladden Mr. Toole's friends by thin] ing favourably of his chances of success. "I remember what I once myself wanted in that way," he said, "and I should like to serve him." . . . Before the year closed, the time to which his publishing arrange- ments with Messrs. Bradbury and Evans were limited had expu-ed, but at his suggestion the fourth share in such books as he might write, which they had now received for eight years, was continued to them on the understanding that the publishers' percentage should no longer be charged in the partnership accounts, and with a power reserved to himself to withdraw when he pleased. In the new year his first adventure was an ovation in Birmingham, where a silver-gilL salver and a diamond ring were presented to him, as well for eloquent service specially rendered to the Institution, as in general testimony of "varied literary acquirem<-nts, genial philosophy, and high moral teaching." A great banquet allowed on Twelfth Night, made memor- able by an offer to give a couple of readings from his books at the following Christmas, in aid of the new Midland Institute. It might seem to have been drawn from him as a grateful return for the enthusiastic gieeting of his entertainers, but it was in his mind before he left London. It was his first formal undertaking to read in public. His eldest son had now left Eton, and the boy's wishes pointing at the time to a mercantile career, he was sent to Leipzig for completion of his education. At this date it seemed to me that the overstrain of attempting too much, brought upon him by the necessities of his weekly periodical, became first apparent in Dickens. Not unfrequently a complaint strange upon his lips fell from him. " Hypochondriacal whisperings tell me that I am rather overworked. The spring does not seem to fly back again directly,, as it always did when I put my own work aside, and had nothing else to do. Yet I have everything to keep me going with a brave heart. Heaven knows !" Courage and hopefulness he might well derive from the increasing sale of Bleak House, which had risen to nearly forty th-^usand; but he could no longer bear easily what he carried so lightly of old, and enjoyments with work, were too much for him. "What with Bleak House and Household Words and Child's History" (he dictated from week to week the papers which formed that little book, and cannot be said to have quite hit the mark with it), "and Miss Coutts's Home, and the invitations to feasts and festivals, I really feel as if my head would split like a fired shell if I remained here." He tried Brighton first, but did not find it answer and retui-ned. A few days of unalloyed enjoy- ment were afterwards given to the visit of his excellent American erland very snow. And ." It ended i left, amid . journey to lave talents friends by ber what I luld like to ig arrange- id expired, light write, ed to them should no bh a power ew year his L silver-gi1 . 3r eloquent . testimony high moral de memor- )oks at the 3. It might rn for the lind before I in public, pointing at :ompletion erstrain of ities of his frequently hondriacal pring does I I put my everything )urage and e of Bleah 3 could no njoyments House and a week to lOt be said 3ome, and ead would Q first, but ^ed enjoy- American The Life of Charles Dickens II |l: 565 friend Felton; and on 13 June he was again in Boulogne, thankin-r heaven for escape from a breakdown. " If I had substituted anybody '1 knowledge of myself for my own, and lingered in London, I never could have goi through." . . . He completed Bleak House by the third week of August, and it was resolved to celebrate the event by a two months' trip to Italy in company with Mr. Wilkie Collins and Mr. Augustus Egg. The start was to be made from Boulogne in the middle of October, when he would send his family home; and he described the intervening weeks as a fearful "reaction and prostration of laziness " only broken by the Child's History. At the end of September he wrote: "I finished the little History yesterday, and am trying to think of something for the Christmas number. After which I shall knock off; having had quite enough to do, small as it would have seemed to me at any other time since I finished Bleak House." He added, a week before his departure' "I get letters from Genoa and Lausanne as if I were going to stay in each place at least a month. If I were to measure my deserts by people's remembrance of me, I should be a prodigy of intolerability Have recovered my Italian, which I had all but forgotten, and am one entire and perfect chrysolite of idleness." From this trip, of which the incidents have an interest independent of my ordinary narrative, Dickens was home again in the middle of December 1853, and kept his promise to his Birmingham friends by reading in their Town Hall his Christmas Carol on the 27th, and his Cricket on the Hearth on the 29th. The enthusiasm was great, and he consented to read his Carol a second time, on Friday the 30th, if seats were reserved for working men at prices within their means. The result was an addition of between four and five hundred pounds to the funds for establishment of the new Institute; and a prettily worked flower-basket in silver, presented to Mrs. Dickens, com- memorated these first public readings "to nearly six thousand people," and the design they had generously helped. Other applications then followed to such extent that limits to compliance had to be put. He nevertheless soon found the question rising again with the same importunity; his own position to it being always that of a man assent- ing against his will that it should rest in abeyance. But nothing further was resolved on yet. The readings mentioned came o£E as promised, in aid of public objects; and besides others two years later for the family of a friend, he had given the like liberal help to institutes in Folkestone, Chatham, and again in Birmingham, Peterborough. Sheffield, Coventry, and Edinburgh, before the question settled itselt finally in the announcement for paid public readings issued by him in 1858. ... Then came the beginning of Nobody's Fault, as Little Dorrit con- tinued to be called by him up to the eve of its publication; a flight to Folkestone, to help his sluggish fancy; and his return to London in October, to preside at a dinner to Thackeray on his going to lecture in America. ... t \ I i ii u 566 The Life of Charles Dickens Dickens went to Paris early in October, and at its close was brought again to London by the sudden death of a friend, much deplored by himself, and still more so by a distinguished lady who had his loyal service at all times. An incident before his return to France is worth brief relation. He had sallied out for one of his night walks, full of thoughts of his story, one wintry rainy evening (8 November), and "pulled himself up," outside the door of Whitechapel Workhouse, at a strange sight which arrested him there. Against the dreary en- closure of the house were leaning, in the midst of the down-pouring rain and storm, what seemed to be seven heaps of rags: "dumb, wet, silent horrors," he described them, "sphinxes set up against that dead wall, and no one likely to be at the pains of solving them until the General Overthrow." He sent in his card to the Master. Against him there was no ground of complaint; he gave prompt personal attention; but the casual ward was full, and there was no help. The rag-heaps were all girls, and Dickens gave each a shilling. One girl, "twenty or so," had been without food a day and night. "Look at me," she said, as she clutched the shilling, and without thanks shuffled off. So with the rest. There was not a single "thank you." A crowd meanwhile, only less poor than these objects of misery, had gathered round the scene; but though they saw the seven shillings given away they asked for no relief to themselves, they recognised in t heir sad wild way the other greater wretchedness, and made room in silence for Dickens to walk on. Not mote tolerant of the way in which laws meant to be most humane are too often administered in England, he left in a day or two to resume his Little Dorrit in Paris. But before his life there is described, some sketches from his holiday trip to Italy with Mr. Wilkie Collins and Mr. Augustus Egg, and from his three summer visits to Boulogne, claim to themselves two intervening chapters. iir IN SWITZERLAND AND ITALY 1853 Before October closed, the travellers had reached Genoa, having been thirty-one consecutive hours on the road from Milan. They arrived in somewhat damaged condition, and took up their lodging in the top rooms of the Croce di Malta, "overlooking the port and sea pleasantly and airily enough, but it was no joke to get so high, and the apartment is rather vast and faded."* The warmth of personal greefting that here awaited Dickens was given no less to the friends who accompanied him, and though the reader may not share in such The Life of Charles Dickens kvas brought deplored by ad his loyal ace is worth aiks, full of smber), and jrkhouse, at dreary en- >wn-pouring dumb, wet, st that dead m until the \gainst him il attention; le rag-heaps "twenty or 3," she said, off. So with meanwhile, 1 round the ' they asked ild way the ■ Dickens to to be most in a day or life there is y with Mr. ree summer chapters. 567 loa, having [ilan. They leir lodging le port and jet so high, of personal the friends tare in such private confidences as would show the sensation created by his reappearance, and the jovial hours that were passed among old associates, he will perhaps be interested to know how far the inter- vening years had changed the aspect of things and places made pleasantly familiar to us in his former letters. The voyage thence to Naples, written from the latter place, is too capital a description to be lost. The steamer in which they embarked was "the new express English ship," but they found her to be already more than full of passengers from Marseilles (among them an old friend. Sir Emerson Tennent, with his family), and everything in confusion. There were no places at the captain's table, dinner had to be taken on deck, no berth or sleeping accommodation was available, and heavy first-class fares had to be paid. Thus they made their way to Leghorn, where worse awaited them. The authorities proved to be not favourable to the "crack" English-officered vessel (she had just been started for the India mail); and her papers not being examined in time, it was too late to steam away again that day, and she Jiad to lie all night long off the lighthouse. "The scene on board beggars description. Ladies on the tables; gentlemen under the tables; bedroom appliances not usually beheld in public airing themselves in positions where soup-tureens had been lately developing themselves; and ladies and gentlemen lying indiscriminately on the open deck, arranged like spoons on a sideboard. No mattresses, no blankets, nothing. Towards midnight attempts were made, by means of awning and flags, to make this latter scene remotely approach an Australian encampment; and we three (Collins, Egg, and self) lay together on the bare planks covered with our coats. We were all gradually dozing off, when a perfectly tropical rain fell, and in a moment drowned the whole ship. The rest of the n ^^ht we passed upon the stairs, with an immense jumble of men and women. When anybody came up for any purpose we all fell down, and when anybody came down we all fell up again. Still, the good-humour in the English part of the passengers was quite extraordinary. . . . There were excellent officers aboard, and, in the morning, the first mate lent me his cabin to wash in — ^which I afterwards lent to Egg and Collins. Then we, the Emerson Tennents, the captain, the doctor, and the second officer, went off on a jaunt together to Pisa, as the ship was to lie all day at Leghorn. The captain was a capital fellow, but I led him, facetiously, such a life the whole day, that I got most things altered at night. Emerson Tennent's son, with the greatest amiability, insisted on turning out of his state- room for me, and I got a good bed there. The store-room down by the hold was opened for Collins and Egg; and they slept with the moist sugar, the cheese in cut, the spices, the cruets, the apples and pears, in a perfect chandler's shop — in company with what a friend of ours would call a hold gent, who had been so horribly wet through overnight that his condition frightened the authorities; a cat; and the steward, who dozed in an armchair, and all-night-long fell head foremost, once every five minutes, on Egg, who slept on the counter iil I I , M I ' ■ Hi 568 The Life of Charles Dickens I!,!; .,;; SilH >r dresser. Last night, I had the steward's own cabin, opening on deck, all to myself. It had been previously occupied by some desolate lady who went ashore at Civita Vecchia. There was little or no sea, thank Heaven, all the trip; but the rain was heavier than any I have ever seen, and the lightning very constant and vivid. We were, with the crew — some 200 people — provided with boats, at the utmost sf retch, for one hundred perhaps. I could not help thinking what would happen if we met with any accident: the crew being chiefly Maltese, and evidently fellov/s who would cut off alone in the largest boat, on the least alarm; the speed very high; and the running, thro' all the narrow rocky channels. Thank God, however, here we are." A whimsical postscript closed the an.asing narrative. "We towed from Civita Vecchia, the entire Greek navy, I believe; consisting of a little brig-of-war with no guns, fitted as a steamer, but disabled by having burnt the bottoms of her boilers out, in her first run. She was just big enough to carry the captain and a crew of six or so; but the captain was so covered with buttons and gold that there never would have been room for him ou board to put those valuables away, if he hadn't worn them — which he consequently did, all night. Whenever anything was wanted to be done, as slackening the tow-rope or any- thing of that sort, our officers roared at this miserable potentate, in violent English, through a speaking trumpet; of which he couldn't have understood a word in the most fa\ ourable circumstances. So he did all the wrong things first, and the right thing always last. The absence of any knowledge of anything but English on the part of the officers and stewards was most ridiculous. I met an Italian gentleman on the cabin steps yesterday morning, vainly endeavour- ing to explain that he wanted a cup of tea for his sick wife. And when we were coming out of the harbour at Genoa, and it was necessarv to order away that boat of music you remember, the chief officer (called 'aft' for the purpose, as 'knowing something of Italian') delivered himself in this explicit and clear Italian to the principal performer — 'Now Signora, if you don't sheer off you'll be run down, so you had better trice up that guitar of yours and put about.' " At Naples some days were passed very merrily; going up Vesuvius and into the buried cities, with Layard who had joined them, and with the Tennents. Here a small adventure befell Dickens specially, in itself extremely unimportant, but told by him with delightful humour in a letter to his sister-in-law. The old idle Frenchman, to whom all things are possible, with his snuff-box and dusty umbrella and all the delicate and kindly observation, would have enchanted Leigh Hunt, and made his way to the heart of Charles Lamb. After mentioning Mr. Lowther, then English charge d'affaires in Naples, as a very agreeable fellow who had been at the Rockingham play, he alludes to a meeting at his house. "We had an exceedingly pleasant dinner of eight, preparatory to which I was near having the ridiculous adventure of not being able to find the house and coming back dinner- less. I went in an open carriage from the hotel in all state, and the opening on •me desolate e or no sea, I any I have ; were, with the utmost nking what ►eing chiefly 1 the largest nning, thro' ire we are." "We towed consisting of disabled by un. She was • so; but the never would away, if he :. Whenever ope or any- otentate, in he couldn't istances. So always last, on the part t an Italian endeavour- 5. And when IS necessary chief officer of Italian') le principal 3 run down, about.' " ip Vesuvius [ them, and IS specially, 1 delightful nchman, to ty umbrella ; enchanted .amb. After ; in Naples, gham play, jly pleasant e ridiculous lack dinner - i,te, and the The Life of Charles Dickens 569 coachman to my surprise pulled up at the end of the Chiaja. 'Behold the house,' says he, 'of II Signor Larthoor!'— at the same time pointmg with his whip into the ssventh heaven where the early stars were shining. 'But the Signor Larthorr,' says I, 'lives at Pausilippo.' 'It is true,' says the coachman (still pointing to the evening star), 'but he lives high up the Salita Sant' Antonio where no carriage ever yet ascended, and that :;s the house' (evening star as aforesaid) 'and one must go on foot. Behold the Salita Sant' Antonio!' I went up it. a mile and a half T should think. I got into the strangest places among the wildest Neapolitans; kitchens, washing-places, archways, stables, vineyards; was baited by dogs, and answered, in profoundly un- intelligible language, from behind lonely locked doors in cracked female voices, quaking with fear; but could hear of no such English- man, nor any Englishman. By and by, I came upon a polentashop in the clouds, where an old Frenchman with an umbrella like a faded tropical leaf (it had not rained in Naples for six weeks) was staring at nothing at all, with a snuff-box in his hand. To hun I appealed concerning the Signor Larthoor. 'Sir,' said he, with the sweetest politeness, 'can you speak French?' 'Sir,' said I, 'a little.' Sir,' said he, 'I presume the Signor Loothere' — you will observe that he changed the name according to the custom of his country— 'is an Englishman?' I admitted that he v/as the victim of circumstances and had that misfortune. 'Sir,' said he, 'one word more. Has he a servant with a wooden leg?' 'Great heaven, sir,' said I, 'how do I know? I should think not, but it is possible.' 'It is always,' said the Frenchman, 'possible. Almost all the things of the world are always possible.' 'Sir,' said I — you may imagine my condition and dismal sense of my own absurdity by this time— 'that is true.' He then took an immense pinch of snuff, wiped the dust off his umbrella, led me to an arch commanding a wonderful view of the Bay of Naples, and pointed deep into the earth from which I had mounted. 'Below there, near the lamp, one finds an Englishman with a servant with a wooden leg. It is always possible that he is the Signor Loothere.' I had been asked at six o'clock, and it was now getting on for seven. I went back in a state of perspiration and misery not to be describ<;d, and without the faintest hope of finding the spot. But as I was going farther down to the lamp, I saw the strangest staurcase up a dark corner, with a man in a white waistcoat (evidently hired) standing on the top of it fuming. I dashed in at a venture, found it was the house, made the most of the whole story, and achieved much popularity.' The best of it was that as nobody ever did nnd the place, Lowther had put a servant at the bottom of the Sahta to wait 'for an English gentleman'; but the servant (as he presently pleaded), deceived by the moustache, had allowed the English gentleman to pass un- challenged." ^ From Naples they went to Rome, where they found Lockhart, fearfully weak and broken, yet hopeful of himself too" (he died the following year); smoked and drank punch with David Roberts, then i t ( ■ 1 M II M I 570 The Life of Charles Dickens painting every day with Louis Haghe in St. Peter's; and took the old walks. The Coliseum, Appian Way, and Streets of Tombs, seemed desolate and grand as ever; but generally, Dickens adds, "I dis- covered the Roman antiquities to be smaller than my imagination in nine years had made them. The Electric Telegraph now goes like a sunbeam through the cruel old heart of the Coliseum — a suggestive thing to think about, I fancied. The Pantheon I thought even nobler than of yore." The amusements were of course an attraction; and nothing at the Opera amused the party of three English more, than another party of four Americans who s 't behind them in the pit. "All the seats are numbered arm-chairs, and you buy your number at tho pay-place, and go to it with the easiest direction on the ticket itself. We were early, and the four places of the Americans were on the next row behind us— all together. After looking about them for some time, and seeing the greater part of the seats empty (because the audience generally wait in a caffd which is part of the theatre), one of them said 'Waal I dunno — I expect we ain't no call to set so nigh to one another neither — will you scatter Kernel, will you scatter sir?' — Upon this the Kernel 'scattered* some twenty benches off; and they distributed themselves (for no earthly reason apparently but to get rid of one another) all over the pit. As soon as the overture began, in came the audience in a mass. Then the people who had got the numbers into which they had 'scattered,' had to get them out; and as they understood nothing that was said to them, and could make no reply but 'A-mericani,' you may imagine the number of cocked hats it took to dislodge them. At last they were all got back into their right places, except one. About an hour afterwards when Moses {Moses in Egypt was the opera) was invoking the dark- ness, and there was a dead silence all over the house, unwonted sounds of disturbance broke out from a distant corner of the pit and here and there a beard got up to look. 'What is it neow, sir?' said one of the Americans to another; 'some person seems to be getting along, again streeem.' 'Waal sir' he replied 'I dunno. But I xpect 'tis the Kernel sir, a holdin on.' So it was. The Kernel was ignominiously escorted back to his right place, not in the least disconcerted, and in perfectly good spirits and temper." The opera was excellently done, and the price of the stalls one and threepence English. At Milan, on the other hand, the Scala was fallen from its old estate, dirty, gloomy, dull, and the performance execrable. Another theatre of the smallest pretension Dickens sougl t out with avidity in Rome, and eagerly enjoyed. He had heard it said in his old time in Genoa that the finest Marionetti were here; and now, after great difficulty, he discovered the company in a sort of stable attached to a decayed palace. "It was a wet night, and there was no audience but a party of French officers and ourselves. We all sat together. I never saw anything more amazing than the performance — altogether only an hour long, but managed by as many as ten people, for we saw them all go behind, at the ringing of a bell. The took the old nbs, seemed dds. "I dis- imagination ow goes like a suggestive even nobler paction; and I more, than I in the pit. our number m the ticket ans were on )ut them for 5ty (because the theatre), :all to set so el, will you snty benches I apparently the overture pie who had to get them > them, and the number were all got r afterwards ng the dark- i, unwonted the pit and w, sir?' said o be getting I I xpect 'tis nominiously icerted, and i excellently English. At s old estate, sought out ird it said in re; and now, ort of stable there was no . We all sat performance nany as ten f a bell. The The Life of Charles Dickens 571 saving of a young lady by a good fairy from the machinations of an enchanter, coupled with the comic business of her servant PuJcinella (the Roman Punch) formed the plot of the first piece. A scolding old peasant woman, who always leaned forward to scold and put her hands m the pockets of her apron, was incredibly natural. Pulcinella so airy, so merry, so life-like, so graceful, he was irresistible. To see him carrymg an umbrella over his mistress's head in a storm, talking to a prodigious giant whom he met in the forest, and going to bed with a poiAy were things never to be forgotten. And so delicr.te are the hand" of the people who move them, that every puppet was an Italian, and did exactly what an Italian does. It he pointed at any object, if he saluted anybody, if he laughed, if he cried, he did it as never Englishman did it since Britain first at Heaven's command arose— arose— arose, etc. There was a ballet afterwards, on the same scale, and we came away realiy quite enchanted with the delicate drollery of the thing. French ofificers more than ditto.*' . . From Rome they posted to Florence, and the last place visited was lunn. where the travellers arrived on 5 December. . IV THREE SUMMERS AT BOULOGNE 1853, 1854. and 1856 '^.NS was in Boulogne, in 1853, from the middle of June to the September, and for the next three months, as we have seen witzerland and Italy. In the following year he went again gne in June, and stayed, after finishing Hard Times, until October. In February of 1855 he was for a fortnight in Paris with Mr. Wilkie Collins; not taking up his more prolonged residence there until the winter, ."rom November 1855 to the end of April 1856 he made the French capital his home, working at Little Dmrii during all those months. Then, after a month's interval in Dover and Lon- don, he took up his third summer residence in Boulogne, whither his younger children had gone direct from Paris; and stayed unfi! September, finishing Little Dorrit in London in the spring of 1857. Of the first of thc^e visits, a few lively notes of humour and charac- ter out of his letters will tell the story sufficiently. The second and third had points of more attractiveness. Those were the years of the French-English alliance, of the great exposition of English paintings of the return of the troops from the Crimea, and of the visit of the i nnce Consort to the Emperor; such interest as Dickens took in these several matters appearing in his letters with the usual \''vidness, and the story of his continental life coming out with amusing dis- :! , » r • ! ' IhMi VI "f ■ W }!l I 572 The Life of Charles Dickens tinctnes:. :■ the successive pictures they paint with so much warmt' and colour. Another chapter will be given tc Pakia. This deals only with Boulogne. For his first summer residence, in June 1853, he had taken a house on the high ground near the Calais road; an odd Fionch place with the strangest little rooms and halls, but standing in the midat of a large garden, with wood and waterlail, a conservatory opening on a great bank of roses, and paths and gates on one side to the ramparts, on the other to the sea. Above all there was a capital proprietor and landlord, by whom the cost ol keeping up gardens and wood (which he called a forest) was defrayed, while he gave his tenant the whole range of both and all the flowers for nothing, rsold him the garden produce as it was v^^anted, and kept a cow m the estate to supply the family milk. . . . Then came a letter with his description of his landlord, lightly sketched by him in print as M. Loyal-Devasseur, but here filled in with the most altractiv touches his loving hard could give. "But the landlord — M. Beauco.^rt — is wonderful. Every^ My here has two surnames (I cannot concei>'e why), and M. Beaucourt, p.s he is always called, is by rights M. Beavicourt-Mutuel. He is a portly jolly fellow with a fine open face; lives on the hill behind, just outside the top of the garden; and was a linen draper in the town, where he still has a shop, but is supposed to have mortgaged his business and to be in difficulties — all along ot this place, which he has planted with his own hands; which he cultivates all day; and which he never on any consideration speaks of but as "the property." He is extraordir :ily popular in Boulogne (the people in the shops invariably brightening up at the mention of his name, and congratulating us on being his tenants), and really seems to deserve it. He is such a liberal fellow that I can't bear to ask him for anything, since he instantly supplies it whatever it is. The things he has done in respect of unreasonable bedsteads and washing-stands, I blush to think of. I observed the other day in one of the side gardens — there are gardens at each side of the house too — a place where I thought the Comic Countryman" (a name he was giving just then to'his youngest boy) "must infallibly trip over, and make a little descent of a dozen feet. So I said 'M. Beaucourt' — who instantly pulled off his cap and stood bareheaded — 'there are some spare pieces of wood lying by the cow-house, if you would have the kindness to have one laid across here I think it would be safer.' 'Ah, mon Dieu sir,' said M. Beaucourt, 'it must be iron. This is not a portion of the property where you would like to see wood.' 'But iron is so expensive,' said I, 'and it really is not worth while ' 'Sir, pardon me a thousand times,' said M. Beaucourt, 'it shall be iron. Assuredly and perfectly it shall be iron.' 'Then 'A. Beaucourt,' said I, 'I shall be glad to pay a moiety of ths cost.' 'Sir,' said M. Beaucourt, 'Never!' Then to change the subject, he slided from his firmness and gravity into a graceful conversational tone, and said, 'In the moonlight last night, the flowers on the property appe£ propt hML n nuch warmt' lis deals only ;aken a house :h placo with \e mid3t of a opening on a ;he ramparts, roprietor and wood (which tnt the whole n the garden ite to supply ilord, lightly here filled in d give. "But here has two s he is always y jolly fellow tside the top re he still has 1 and to be in ited with his never on any ;traordir :ily / brightening on being his liberal fellow ^ntly supplies unreasonable observed the > at each side ;)ountryman" lust infallibly 30 I said 'M. )areheaded — house, if you hink it would nust be iron, d like to see is not worth ;. Beaucourt, )n.' 'Then A. IS cost.' 'Sir,' 5ct, he slided ational tone, the property T.h^ Life of Charles Dicksns 573 appeared, O hea^^ be bathing thenuehts in tfie sky. \ou like the property?' 'M. Piaucourt.' said I, 'I am enchanted with it; I am more than satisfied wiih everything,' 'And I sir,' said ^■.. Beaucourt, layine hi3 cap upon nis breast, and kissing his hand— 'I cqualbM' Yesterdav two blacksmiths came for a day's work, and put up'a good solid liandsome bit of iron-railing, mortised into the stone parapet 1 f the extraordinary things in the ho ^.e defv description, the amazing phenomena in the gardens never could have been dreamed of bv anybody but a Frenchman bent upon one idea. E sides a portrait of the house in the dining-room, there is a plan of the property in the hall. It looks about the size of Irebnd; and to every one of the extra- ordinary objects there is a reference v;ith some portentous name I here are fitty-one such references, including the Cottage of Tom Inumb. the Bridge of Austerlitz, the Bridge of Jena, the Hermitage, the Bower of the Old Guard, the Labyrinth (I have no idea which is which); and there ^s guidance to every room in the house as if it wore a place on that stupendous scale that without such a clue you must infallibly lose your way, and perhaps perish of starvation between bedroom and bedroom." On 3 Ju':, t'lere came a fresh trait of the good fellow of a landlord "Fancy w.K . Beaucourt told me last night. When he 'conceived the inspiration' of planting the property ten years ago, he wert over to England to buy the trees, took a small cottage in the market-gardens at Putney, lived there three months, held a symposium everv nig^t attended by the principal gardeners of Fulham, Putney Kew an Hammersmith (which he calls Hamsterdam), and wound up with a supper at which the market-gardeners rose, clinked their glasses and exclaimed with one accord (I quote him exactly) Vive Beaucourt' He was a captain in the National Guard, and Cavaignac his general" Brave Capitame Beaucourt! said Cavaignac, you must receive a decoration. My General, said Beaucourt, No! It ::. enough for me that I have done my duty. I go to lay the first stone of a house upon a Property I have— that house shall be my decoration (Regard that house!)" Addition to the picture came in a letter of 24 fuly With a droll glimpse of Shakespeare at the theatre, and of the Saturday's pig-market. . . . "We went to the theatre last night, to see the Midsummer Night's Dream— oi the Op^ra Comique. It is a beautiful little theatre now with a very good company; and the nonsense of the piece was done with a sense quite confounding in that connection. Willy Am Shay Kes Peer; Sirzhon Foil Stayffe; Lor Lattimeer; and that celebrated Maid of Honour to Queen Elizabeth, Meees Oleevesir- w-re the principal characters. "Outside the old to vn. aii army of workmen are (and have been for a week or so, already) employed upon an immense building which I supposed might be a Fort, or a xvlonastery. or a Barrack or other something designed to last for ages. I find it is for the annual fair which begins on the 5th of August and lasts a fortright. Almost ; ■* ! t I I 4: U ■ 574 The Life of Charles Dickens every Sunday we have a ffite, where there is dancing in the open air, and where immense men with prodigious beards revolve on little wooden horses like Italian irons, in what we islanders call a round- about, by the hour together. But really the good humour and cheer- fulness are very delightful. Among the other sights of the place, there is a pig-market every Saturday, perfectly insupportable in its absurdity. An excited French peasant, male or female, with a deter- mined young pig, is the most amazing spectacle. I saw a little Drama enacted yesterday week, the drollery of which was perfect. Dram. Pers. I. A pretty young woman with short petticoats and trim blue stockings, riding a donkey with two baskets and a pig in each. 2. An ancient farmer in a blouse, driving four pigs, his four in hand, with an enormous whip — and being drawn against walls and irtto smoking shops by any one of the four. 3. A cart, with an old pig (manacled) looking out of it, and terrifying six hundred and fifty young pigs in the market by his terrific grunts. 4. Collector of Octroi in an immense cocked hat, with a stream of young pigs running, night and day, between his military boots and rendering accounts im- possible. 5. Inimitable, confronted by a radiation of elderly pigs, fastened each by one leg to a bunch of stakes in the ground. 6. John Edmund Reade, poet, expressing eternal devotion to and admiration of Landor, unconscious of approaching pig recently escaped from barrow. 7. Priests, peasants, soldiers, etc." . . . When leaving Paris for his third visit to Boulogne, at the beginning of June 1S56, he had not written a word of the ninth number of his new book, and did not expect for another month to "see land from the running sea of Little Dorrit." He had resumed the house he first occupied, the cottage or villa "des Moulineaux," and after dawdling about his garden for a few days with surprising industry in a French farmer garb of blue blouse, leathern belt, and military cap, which he had mounted as "the only one for complete comfort," he wrote to me that he was getting "Now to work again — ^to work! The story lies before me, I hope, strong and clear. Not to be easily told; but nothing of that sort is to be easUy done that / know of." At work it became his habit to sit late, and then, putting off his usual walk until night, to lie down among the roses reading until after tea ("middle-aged Love in a blouse and belt"), when he went down to the pier. . . . His own household had got into a small war, of which the com- mander-in-chief was his man-servant "French," the bulk of the forces engaged being his children, and the invaders two cats. Busi- ness brought him to London on the hostilities breaking out, and on his return after a few days the story of the war was told. "Dick," it should be said, was a canary very dear both to Dickens and his eldest daughter, who had so tamed to her loving hand its wild little heart that it was become the most docile of companions. "The only thing new in this garden is that war is raging against two particularly tigerish and fearful cats (from the mill, I suppose), whicii are always glaring in dark corners, after our wonderful little Dick. Keeping the The Life of Charles Dickens the open air, Ive on little all a round- r and cheer- place, there table in its irith a deter- little Drama :fect. Dram. id trim blue )ig in each, our in hand, Us and iilto I an old pig ed and fifty :or of Octroi nning, night ccounts ini- tlderly pigs, md. 6. John [ admiration jcaped from le beginning imber of his e land from ouse he first :er dawdling in a French ip, which he he wrote to he story lies but nothing k it became until night, middle-aged pier. . . . :h the com- t)ulk of the > cats. Busi- out, and on ,. "Dick," it id his eldest little heart J only thing particularly I are always [keeping the 575 house open at all points, it is impossible to shut them out, and they hide themselves in the most terrific manner; hanging themselves up behind draperies, like bats, and tumbling out in the dead of night with frightful caterwaulings. Hereupon French borrows Beaucourt's gun, loads the same to the muzzle, discharges it twice in vain and throws himself over with the recoil, exactly like a clown. But at last (while I was in town) he aims at the more ami-ble cat of the two and shoots that animal dead. Insufferably elated by this victory he IS now engaged from morning to night in hiding behind bushes to get aim at the other. He does nothing else whatever. All the boys encourage him and watch for the enemy— on whose appearance they give an alarm which immediately serves as a warning to the creature who runs awa> They are at this moment (ready dressed for church) all lying on their stomachs in various parts of the garden. Horrible whistles give notice to the gun what point it is to approach. I am afraid to go out. lest I should be shot. Mr. Ploriiish says his prayers at night in a wnisper, lest the cat should overhear him and take offence. The tradesmen cry out as they come up the avenue, 'Me voici! C'est moi— boulanger— ne tirez pas, Monsieur Franche!''lt is like living in a state of siege; and the wonderful manner in which the cat preserves the character of being the only person not much put out by the intensity of this monomania, is most ridiculous." (6 July ) . . . "About four pounds of powder and half a ton of shot have been" ( 13 July) "fired off at the cat (and the public in general) during the week. The finest thing is that immediately after I have heard the noble sportsman blazing away at her in the garden in front. I look out of my room door into the drawing-room, and am pretty sure to see her coming in after the birds, in the calmest manner, by the back window. Intelligence has been brought to me from a source on which I can rely, that French has newly conceived the atrocious pro- ject of tempting her into the coach-house by meat and kindness, and there, from an elevated portmanteau, blowing her head off. This I mean sternly to interdict, and to do so to-day as a work of piety." An epidemic broke out in the town, affecting the children of severai families known to Dickens, among them that of his friend Mr. Gilbert A'Beckett; who, upon arriving from Paris, and finding a favourite little son stricken dangerously, sank himself under an illness from which he had been suffering, and died two days after the boy. "He had for three days shown symptoms of rallying, and we had some hope of his recovery; but he sank and died, and never even knew that the child had gone before him. A sad, sad story." Dickens meanwhile had sent his own children home with his wife, and the rest soon followed. Poor M. Beaucourt was inconsolable. "The desola- tion of the place is wretched. When Mamey and Katey went, Beau- court came in and wept. He really is almost broken-hearted about it. He had planted all manner of flowers for next month, and had thrown down the spade and left off weeding the garden, so that it looks some- thing like a dreary bird-cage with all manner of grasses and chicic- 1 ■ 1 %\ i;-. I / ;! I t ' t 1 1^ 1 j \ ' 1 'J "3 1 'i ,^ 576 The Life of Charles Dickens weeds sticking through the bars and lying in the sand. 'Such a lost, too, he says, 'for Monsieur Dickens!' Then he looks in at the kitchen window (which seems to be his only relief), and sighs himself up the hill home." ... ^ The interval of residence in Paris between these two last visits to Boulogne is now to be described. -Ml RESIDENCE IN PARIS 1855-6 In Paris Dickens's life was passed among artists, and in the exercise of his own art. His associates were writers, painters, actors, or musicians, and when he wanted relief from any strain of work he found it at the theatre. The years since his last residence in the great city had made him better known, and the increased attentions pleased him. He had to he^p in preparing for a translation of his books into French; and this, with continued labour at the story he had in hand, occupied him as long as he remained. It will be all best to) by extracts from his letters; in which the people he met, the theatr he visited, and the incidents, public or private, that seemed to h . worthy of mention, reappear with the old force and liveliness. Nor is anything better worth preserving from them than cho bits of description of an actor or a drama, for this perishable enjo , ment has only so much as may survive out of such recollections tc witness for itself to another generation; and an unusually high place may be challenged for the subtlety and delicacy of what is said in these letters of things theatrical, when the writer was especia / attracted by a performer or a play. Frederic Lemaltre has never had a higher tribute than Dickens paid to him during his few days' earlier stay at Paris in the spring. "Incomparably the finest acting I ever saw, I saw last night at the Ambigu. They have revived that old piece, once immensely popular in London under the n 'ne of Thirty Years of a Gambler's Life. Old Lemaltre plays his famous character, and never did I see anything, in art, so exaltedly horrible and awful. In the earlier acts he was so well made up, and so light and active, that he really looked sufficiently young. But in the last two, when he had grown old and miserable, he did the finest things, I really believe, that are within the power of acting. Two or three tinios a great cry of horror went all round the house. When he met, in the inn yard, the traveller whom he murders, and first saw his money, the manner in which the crime came into his head— and eyes— was as truthful as it was terrific." . , . nd. 'Such a losb n at the kitchen s himself up the wo last visits to I in the exercise ters, actors, or ain of work he nee in the great ised attentions ion of his books story he had in be all best to) et, the theatr seemed to h . liveliness, jm than cho irishable enjo^ recollections tc lally high place what is said in was especia y ; has never had 3w days' earlier V last night at nee immensely of a Gambler's lever did I see the earlier acts le really looked grown old and hat are within of horror went '., the traveller jr in which the iful as it was The Life of Charles Dickens 577 That was at the close of February. In October, Dickens's longer residence began. He betook himself with his family, after two un- successful attempts in the new region of the Rue Balzac and Rue Lord Byron, to an apartment in the Avenue des Champs Elys6es. Over him was an English bachelor with an establishment consisting of an English groom and five English horses. "The concierge and his wife told us that his name was Six, which drove me nearly mad until we discovered it to be Sykes." . . . At the first play he went to, the performance was stopped while the news of th last Crimean engagement, just issued in a supplement to the Moniteur, was read from the stage. "It made not the faintest effect upon the audience; and even the hired claqueurs, who had been absurdly loud during the piece, seemed to consider the war not at all within their contract, and were as stagnant as ditc^ vater. The theatre was full. It is quite impossible to see such apathy, and suppose the war to be popular, whatever may be asserted to the contrary." . . . A piece of honest farce is a relief. "An uncommonly droll piece with an original comic idea in it has been in course of representation here. It is called Les Cheveux de wa Femme. A man who is dotingly fond of his -wife, and who wishes to know whether she loved anybody else before they were married, cuts off a lock of her hair by stealth, ^and takes it to a great mesmeriser, who submits it to a clairvoyante AVho never was wrong. It is discovered that the owner of this hair ' iks been up to the most frightful dissipations, insomuch that the o.lairvoyante can't mention half of them. The distracted husband ^joes home to reproach his wife, and she then reveals that she wears %. wig, and takes it off." . . . ' At the house of that great artist, Madame Viardot, the sister of Malibran, Dickens dined to meet George Sand, that lady having appointed the day and hour for the interesting festival, which came off duly on lo January. "I suppose it to be impossible to imagine anybody more unlike my preconceptions than the illustrious Sand. Just the kind of woman in appearance whom you might suppose to be the Queen's monthly nurse. Chubby, matronly, swarthy, black- eyed. Nothing of the blue-stocking about her, except a little final way of settling all your opinions with hers, which I take to have been acquired in the country, where she lives, and in the domination of a small circle. A singularly ordinary woman in appearance and manner. The dinner was very good and remarkably unpretending. Ourselves, Madame and her son, the Scheffers, the Sartorises, and some Lady somebody (from the Crimea last) who wore a species of paletot, and smoked. The Viardots have a house away in the new part of Paris, which looks exactly as if they had moved into it last week and were going away next. Notwithstanding which, they had lived in it eight j-CdiO. JL UC \J^J\Ji.a. 5,ll'_ Ti-ijr !?.«■„••.- ^ jj --■- J •• with the family. Piano not even opened. Her husband is an extremely good fellow, and she is as natural as it is possible to be." 337 i 1 • i ■' 1 I I li It n -i I * ■I ^T I 578 The Life of Charles Dickens > 11'-' III n,Sli^^^ .^'"'^^? ^^^ "'^^ *^ *^^^ f^^^ "measure of Madame Dudevant in meeting her thus. He was not familiar with her writings ^^^J^!:- T ""V 'PfJ^^^ "''^"S ^°^ «"^^ °f them as he knew. But no disappo ntment, nothing but amazement, awaited him at a dinner that followed soon after. Emile de Girardin gave a banquet in his honour. His description of it. which he declare! to be strictly prosak sounds a little Oriental, but not inappropriately so. "No i^an unl o^?^^'^ "^l^u"^^ determination never to embellish or fancify such accounts, could believe in the description I shall let off when we meet w'thTrf f.' ^"'"S Girardin's-of the three gorgeous draw^n^!r?oms SnhJ ron^''"'?"^ ^^^ f'^^^"^ ^^ ^^°^^"^ «^°"^^«' terminating in a t^^nZr^r^^L "T^'S^""*"^ magnificence with two enoSnous fnti J [ P^te^^^^s doors m it. looking (across an ante-chamber f ul of clean plates) straight into the kitchen, with the cooks in Seir The tphi^^K ^^P«,^ishing the dinner. From his seat in the midst of the table, the host (like a Giant in a Fairy story) beholds the kitchen and the snow-white tables, and the profound order ai^dsUenS there prevailing^ Forth from the plate-glass doors issues the Banquet~the ?rnfflri^''/"^ !"^'* "r" *^'*"^ ^y "^^^^^ ^t the present price of pounds On^thf^^^^^^ ^'''"" '°'i'"f (^°^ '''^^' P^°Pl^) ^t leL five laden wiSfh^fi^ ^'^ ground glass jugs of peculiar construction. llT^y^A ^ ^^^?* ^'■'"'^^h ^^ Champagne and the coolest ice. With «?.f! ^^.l''"'"'^ '!'''"^^ ^°^ W^"^ (previously unheard of in a good state on ^iis continent . which would fetch two guineas a bottl^at any sale. The dinner done. Oriental flowers in vasel of golden cobweb are placed upon the board. With the ice is issued Brandy buried for loo years. To that succeeds Coffee, brought by the broiher of one of the convives from the remotest East, in exchange for an eaua! quantity of Californian gold dust. The company befng returned to the drawing-room-tables roll in by unseen agency laden with ?if^K *ff ^'J""^ *^^ ^^"^^"^ «f the Saltan, and with cool drSikTn vvhich the flavour of the Lemon arrived yesterday from ALeria from Lisbon. That period past, and the guests reposing on Divans worked with many-coloured blosspms. big table rolls in heavy with massive furniture of silver, and breathing incense in ?he form o a little present of Tea direct from China-tlble and aH. I behe^- bu? cannot swear to it, and am resolved to be prosaic. All this tlm^ the host perpetually repeats 'Ce petit d!ner-ci n 'est que pour fS^^^ connaissance de Monsieur Dickens; il ne compte pas ce n'est rien ' And even now I have forgotten to set down half oHt-L pafticuTar at'chrktm.^. 'f '^'^'' ""'T ?".^^^"^ ^^^" '^'^ ^^^ «-«- in'^LglanJ nra^ K, ^'"'^' f '^^"^ "^'th a celestial sauce in colour likl the hltS^S f'^'^f °"'' ^?^ '^ substance like the blossom powdered and bathed in dew. and called in the carte (carte in a gold frame like a httle fish-slice_to be handed about) 'Homma^e a rillustrTS^rT^air rnT-^^^T^'"'' ' ^S* ^^^^^trious man staggered out at the last drawing^ room door, speechless with wonder, finally; and even at that moment The Life of Charles Dickens i of Madame her writings, cnew. But no 1 at a dinner inquet in his ictly prosaic, No man un- • fancify such hen we meet, a wing-rooms linating in a enormous nte-chamber ooks in their the midst of the kitchen, silence there anquet — the sent price of It least five onstruction, ist ice. With of in a good 1 a bottle at den cobweb ', buried for ther of one or an equal returned to laden with 3l drinks in )ra Algeria, iiis morning on Divans heavy with i form of a )elieve; but is time the •ur faire la n'est rien.' particular in England iir like the dered and ame like a 'e ecrivain t drawing- it moment 579 his host, holding to his lips a chalice set with precious stones and containing nectar distilled from the air that blew over the fields of beans in bloom for fifteen summers, remarked 'Le diner que nous avons eu, mon cher, n'est rien — il ne compte pas — il a 6t6 tout-i-fait en famille — il faut diner (eu v6rite, diner) bientdt. Au plaisirl Au re voir! Au diner!' " The second dinner came, wonderful as the first; amoiig the com- pany were Regnier, Jules Sandeau, and the new Director of the Fran9ais; and his host again played LucuUus in the same style, with success even more consummate. The only absolutely new incident however was that "After dinner he asked me if I would come into another room and smoke a cigar? and on my saying Yes, coolly opened a drawer, containing about 5000 inestimable cigars in prodigious bundles — just as the Captain of the Robbers in AH Baba might have gone to a comer of the cave for bales of brocade. A little man dined who was blacking shoes 8 years ago, and is now enor- mously rich — the richest man in Paris — having ascended with rapidity up the usual ladder of the Bourse. By merely observing that perhaps he might come down again, I clouded so many faces as to render it very clear to me that everybody present was at the same game for some stake or other!" He returned to that subject in a letter a few days later. "If you were to see the steps of the Bourse at about 4 in the afternoon, and the crowd of blouses and patches among the speculators there assembled, all howling and haggard with specula- tion, you would stand aghast at the consideration of what must be going on. Concierges and peopie like that perpetually blow their brains out, or fly into the Seine, '4 cause des pertes r la Bourse.' I hardly ever take up a French paper without ligh ,-iig on such a paragraph. On the other hand, thoroughbred horses without enc, and red velvet carriages with white kid harness on jet black horses, go by here all day long, and the pedestrians who turn to look at them, laugh, and say, ' C'est la Bourse ! ' Such crashes must be staved off every week as have not been seen since Law's time." . . . Before Dickens left Paris in May he had completed the arrange- ments for a published translation of all his books, and had sent over two descriptions that the reader most anxious to follow him to a new scene would perhaps be sorry to lose. A Duchess was murdered in the Champs Elysees. "The murder over the way (the third or fourth event of that nature in the Champs Elysees since we have been here) seems to disclose the strangest state of things. The Duchess who is murdered lived alone in a great house which was always shut up, and passed her time entirely in the dark. In a little lodge outside lived a coachman (the murderer), and there had been a long succes- sion of coachmen who had been unable to stay there, and upon whom, whenever they asked for their wages, she plunged out with an never had anything to do, for the coach hadn't been driven out for years; neither would she ever allow the horses to be taken out for 41 ill >i iffilBlli 580 The Lite of Charles Dickens exercise. Between the lodge and the house, is a miserable bit of f^f^^' ?i 'O'^^^^^^^ ^"h long rank grass, weeds, and nettles; and m this the horses used to be taken out to swim— in a dead ween Xlf i^^to^' "Pi° *?^^ liaunches. On the day of the murder there ™® ^f ^"^r ^""^ ^f'^o"' ^^°"^ she ^^as separated), and rings at the ^n^.' Sh P ""? °?^'' ?® «^^*^- '^'es* ^^^i ^o^<^'' says the Duke. sif^J^^T ^t ^"^hf s« «'est plusP'-'C'est tro/ vrai. Monl +^ f^! ~Z T^,^t °^»^"x/ says the Duke, and walks off deliberately, to the great satisfaction of the assemblage." The second description relates an occurrence in England of onlv H/c?.^^^''^•J?''^'''T?^'^^*®' belonging to that wildly improbable firf J , ?^'*'^^ ^^I""^. ^'^^^"^ ^^^^ys held, with Fielding, to be (properly) closed to fiction. Only, he would add. critics should not be ^o„M^^^ K ^^^"""u *^^* "^^^t h^^ "^^^^ happened to themselves could not. by any human possibility, ever be supposed to have hap- pened to anybody else. "B. was with me the other day. and, among other things that he told me. described an extraordinary adventurt n ?'t,, lu^* ^ P^^''^ "^o* ^ thousand miles from my 'property' at Oadshill. three years ago. He lived at the tavern and was sketching one day when art open carriage came by with a gentleman and lad? m It. He was sitting in the same place working at the same sketch, next day. when it came by again. So, another day, when the gentle- man got out and mt-oduced himself. Fond of art; lived at the great house yonder. whicL perhaps he knew; was an Oxford man and a Devonshire squire, but not resident on his estate, for domestic reasons; would be glad to see him to dinner to-morrow. He went and Sl!??htT"^ °*^^' *?'°^l^ r^^ ^^^ ^ib^^^y- 'At your disposition.' said the Squire, to whom he had now described himself and his pur- suits. Use It for your writing and drawing. Nobody else uses it.' He stayed in the house six months. The lady was a mistress, aged five- and-twenty, and very beautiful, drinking her life away. The Squire was drunken and utterly depraved and wicked; but an excellent scholar, an admirable linguist, and a great theologian. Two other mad visitors stayed the six months. One. a man well known in Paris here who goes about the world with a crimson silk stocking in his breast pocket, containing a tooth-brush .-.nd an immense quantity of ready money The other, a college chum of the Squire's, now ruined- "^'^L^"" /nsatiate thirst for drink; who constantly got up in the middle of the night, crept down to the dining-room, and emptied all the decanters. . B stayed on in the place, under a sort of devihsh fascmation to discover what might come of it. . Tea or coffee never seen in the house, and very seldom water. Beer, cham- pa^e, and brandy, were the three drinkables. Breakfast: leg of mutton, champagne, beer, and brandy. Lunch: shoulder of mutton cnampagne, beer, and brandv. Dinnpr- A^r^^r,, ^«r,^^;..»ui_ j:_u vbquure s income. ;^7ooo a year), champagne, beer, and brandy. The oquire had married a woman of the town from whom he was now jrable bit of nettles; and I dead green aurder there p comes the rings at the s the Duke, vrai, Mon- ieliberately, and of only improbable Iding, to be lould not be themselves o have hap- and, among Y adventure )roperty' at IS sketching m and lady ime sketch, the gentle- it the great man and a •r domestic e went, and lisposition,' nd his pur- uses it.' He , aged five- The Squire n excellent Two other ivn in Paris king in his quantity of low ruined; up in the jmptied all a sort of . . Tea or eer, cham- ist: leg of 3f mutton, andy. The 3 was now The Life of Charles Dickens 581 separated, but by whom he had a daughter. The mother, to spite the father, had bred the daughter in every conceivable vice. Daughter, then 13, came from school once a month. Intensely coarse in talk,' and always drunk. As they drove about the country in two open carriages, the drunken mistress would be perpetually tumbling out of one, and the drunken daughter perpetually tumbling out of the other. At last the drunken mistress drank her stomach away, and began to die on the sofa. Got worse and worse, and was always raving about Somebody's where she had once been a lodger, and perpetually shrieking that she would cut somebody else's heart out. At last she died on the sofa, and, after the funeral, the party broke up. A few months ago, B. met the man with the crimson silk stocking at Brighton, who told him that the Squire was dead 'of a broken heart'; that the chum was dead of delirium tremens; and that the daughter- was heiress to the fortune. He told me all this, which I fully believe to be true, without any embellishment— just in the off-hand way in which I have told it to you." Dickens left Paris at the end of April, and, after the summer in Boulogne, which has been described, passed the winter in London, giving to his theatrical enterprise nearly all the time that Little Dorrit did not claim from htm. His book was finished in the following sprmg; was inscribed to Clarkson Stanfield; and now claims to have something said about it. The theatrical enterprise to be at the same time related, with what it led to, will be found to open a new phase in the life of Dickens. r 1 i 1 tin II BOOK EIGHTH PUBLIC READER 1856-67. MT. 44-55 I. "Little Dorrit," and a Lazy Tour. n. What Happened at this Time. III. Gadshill Place. IV. First Paid Readings. V. "All the Year Round" and "Uncommercial Traveller." VI. Second Series of Readings. VII. Third Series of Readings. 1 ■5 I 583 i a i ! I'! f I "little dorrit," and a lazy tour 1855-7 Between Hard Times and Little Dorrit, Dickens's principal literary work had been the contribution to Household Words oi two tales fS Christmas (1854 and 1855) which his readings af^rwards made wide^ popular, the Story of Richard Doubledick,* and BooTsa? the Holly free Inn In the latter was related, with a charmine naturalness and spirit the elopement, to gcc married at Gretna Green, of two little children of the mature respective ages of eieht and seven At Christmas 1855 came out the first number of Little Dorrit, and m April 1857 the last. . . The first number appeared in December 1855. and on its sale there T.I^°/m ^rt''* ''^*^- ^'"^' ^"^''^ ^^^« ^^t^" even Bleak House out of the field It IS a most tremendous start, and I am overjoyed at it"- to which he added, writing from Paris on the 6th of the month foJlowmg. Jiou know that they had sold 35.000 of number two on new years' day." He was stOl in Paris on the day of the appearance of that por ion of the tale by which it will always be most vividlv remembered, and thus wrote on 30 January, 1856: "I have a erim pleasure upon me to-night in thinking that the Circumlocution Office sees the light, and m wondering what effect it will make But mv head really stings with the visions of the book, and I am soins as we French say to disembarrass it by plunging out into some of the strange places I glide into of nights in these latitudes." The Cu-cumlo- cution heroes led to the Society scenes, the Hampton Court dowager- sketches, and Mr. Gowan; all parts of one satire levelled against ore- vailing political and social vices. Aim had been taken, in the course of It, at some living originals, disguised sufiiciently from recognition * The framework for this sketch was a graphic description, also done bv Dickens, of the celebrated Charity at Rochester founded in the sixteenth r^nfMr,^ by Richard Watts, "for six poor'travellers, who, nofbeSg ^^Jes Jr PrSt^ may receive gratis for one night, lodging, entertainment, trd fourpence Sch^' A quaint monument to Watts is the most prominent object on thTwaU of th*^ south-west Jansept of the cathedral, and unierneath it k iow placed a bras^thSs nLT^r Tl!u''^?^ Dickens. Bom at Portsmouth, seventh of FebnSt 1812 Died at Gadshill Place by Rochester, th of June 1870. Buried in wStminste; Abbey. To connect his memory with the scenes in which his earHest and hff latest years were passed, and with the associations of Rochester Cathedral an^ .•fc^Ijfu Douiiioou which extended over ail his hie, this Tablet, with the sanction of the Dean and Cnapter, is placed by his Executors." «»"vnuu oi me 1 i '■ 337* 585 586 The Life of Charles Dickens to enable him to make his thrust more sure; but there was one excep- tion self-revealed. "I had the general idea," he wrote while engaged on the sixth number, "of the Society business before the Sadleir affair, but I shaped Mr. Merdie himself out of that precious rascality. Society, the Circumlocution Office, and Mr, Gowan, are of course three parts of one idea and design. Mr. Merdle's complaint, which you will find in the end to be fraud and forgery, came into my mind as the last drop in the silver cream-jug on Hampstead Heath. I shall beg, when you have read the present number, to inquire whether you consider 'Bar' an instance, in reference to K F, of a suggested likeness in not many touches?" The likeness no one could mistake; and, though that particular Bar has since been moved into a higher and happier sphere, Westminster Hall is in no danger of losing "the insinuating Jury-droop, and persuasive double eye-glass," by which this keen observer could express a type of character in half a dozen words. Of the other portions of the book that had a strong personal interest for him I have spoken on a former page, and I will now only add an allusion of his own. "There are some things in Flora in number seven that seem to me to be extraordinarily droll, with something serious at the bottom of them after all. Ah, well I was there not something very serious in it once? I am glad to think cf being in the country with the long summer mornings as I approach number ten, where I have finally resolved to make Dorrit rich. It should be a very fine point in the story. . . . Nothing in Flora made me laugh so much as the confusion of ideas between gout flying upwards, and its soaring with Mr. F. to another sphere" (7 April). . . . Shortly after the date of his letter he was in L-ondon on business connected with the purchase of Gadshill Place, and he went over to the Borough to see what traces were left of the prison of which his first impression was taken in his boyhood, which had played so important a part in this latest novel, and every brick and stone of which he had been able to rebuild in his book by the mere vividness of his marvellous memory. "Went to the Borough yesterday morning before going to Gadshill, to see if I could find any ruins of the Marshalsea. Found a great part of the original building — now 'Marshalsea Place.' Found the rooms that have been in my mind's eye in the story. Found, nursing a very big boy, a very small boy, who, seeing me standing on the Marshalsea pavement, looking about, told me how it ail used to be. God knows how he learned it (for he kvas a world too young to know anything about it), but he was right enough. , . . There is a room there — still standing, to my amaze- ment — that I think of taking! It is the room through which the ever-memorable signers of Captain Porter's petition filed ofi in my boyhood." "The spikes are gone, and the wall is lowered, and anybody can go out now who likes to go, and is not bed-ridden; and I said to the boy, 'Who lives there?' and he said, Jack Fithick.' M The Life of Charles Dickens 587 me exccp- e engaged le Sadleir rascality. of course nt, which my mind th. I shall lether you id likeness ake; and, ligher and ising "the by which If a dozen J personal 1 now only I Flora in Iroll, with well! was think cf approach arrit rich. 1 in Flora veen gout r sphere" n business nt over to which his played so d stone of vividness y morning ins of the ling — now ny mind's 5mall boy, ing about, . it (for he was right ly amaze- which the led ofi in vered, and ed-ridden; k Pithick.' 'Who is Jack Pithick?' I asked him. And he said. 'Joe Pithkk's uncle ' " . . . Kia book was finished soon after at Gadshill Place, to be presently described, which he had purchased the previous year, and takek possession of in February; subscribing him«jeli, in the letter announc- ing the fact, as "the Kentish Freeholder on his native heath, his name Protection." The new abode occupied him in variou-- ^ays in the early part of the summer; and Hans Andersen the L -ris had just arrived upon a visit to him there, when Douglas Jerrold's unexpected death befell. It was a shock to everyone, and an especial grief to Dickens. Jerrold's wit, and the bright shrewd intellect that had so many triumphs, need no celebration from me; but the keenest of satirists was one of the kindliest of men, and Dickens had a fondness for Jerrold as genuine as his admiration for him. . . . A plan for a theatrical performance and a reading by Dickens, on behalf of Jerrold's dependent, was carried to its close with vigour, promptitude, and success. In addition to the performances named, there were others in the country also organised by Dickens, in whkh he took active personal part; and the result did not fall short of his expectations. The sum was invested ultimately for our friend's unmarried daughter who now receives, under direction of the Court of Chancery, the income of it until lately paid by myself, the last surviving trustee. So passed the greater part of +^^ summer, and when the country performances were over at the e ^ of August I had this intimation. "I have arranged with Collins that he and I will start next Monday on a ten or twelve days' expedition to out-of-the-way places, to do (in inns and coast-comers) a little tour in search of an article and in avoidance of railroads. I must get a good name for it, and I propose it in five articles, one for the beginning of every number in the October part." Next day: "Our decision is for a foray upon the fells of Cumberland; I having discovered in the books some promising moors and bleak places thereabout." Into the lake-country they went accordingly; and The Lazy Tour of Two Idle Apprentices, contributed to Household Words, related the trip. But his letters had descriptive touches, and some whimsical experiences, not in the published account- Looking over the Beauties of England and Wales before he left London, his ambition was fired by mention of Carrick Fell, "a gloomy old mountain 1500 feet high," which he secretly resolved to go up. "We came straight to it yesterday" (9 September). "Nobody goes up. Guides have f rgotten it. Master of a little inn, excellent north- countryman, volunteered. Went up, in a tremendous rain. C. D. beat Mr. Porter (name of landlord) in half a mile. Mr. P. done up in no time. Three neve^heless went m. Mr. P. again leading; C. D. and C." (Mr. Wilkie Collins) "following. Rain terrific, black mists, darkness of night. Mr. P. agitated. C. D. confident. C. (a long way down in perspective) submissive All wet through. No poles. Not so much as I 4 i ix waiiCing-stiCiC iii the paiLy. xvciiuu uiu s>uiriuii( 'AX aDOur one m lCc 588 The Life of Charles Dickens r day. Dead darkness as of night. Mr. P. (excellent fellow to the last) uneasy. C. D. produces compass from pocket. Mr. P. reassured Farm-house where dog-cart was left, N.N.W. Mr. P. complimentary' Descent commenced. C. D. with compass triumphant, until compass with the heat and wet of C. D.'s pocket, breaks. Mr. P. (who never had a compass), inconsolable, confesses he has not been on Carrick Fell for twenty years, and he don't know the way down. Darker and darker. Nobody discernible, two yards off, by the other two. Mr P makes suggestions, but not way. It becomes clear to C. D. and to C. that Mr. P. is going round and round the mountain, and never commg down. Mr. P. sits on angular granite, and says he is 'just fairly doon. C. D. revives Mr. P. with laughter, the only restorative in the company, Mr. P. again complimentary. Descent tried once more Mr. P. worse and worse. Council of war. Proposals from C. D. to go slap down.' Seconded by C. Mr. P. objects, on account of precipice called The Black Arches, and terror of the countryside. More wandering. Mr. P. terror-stricken, but game. Watercourse, thunder- ing and roaring, reached. C. D. suggests that it must run to the river and had best be followed, subject to all gymnastic hazards. Mr p' opposes, but gives in. Watercourse followed accordingly Leaps splashes, and tumbles, for two hours. C. lost. C. D. whoops. Cries for assistance, from behind. C. D. returns. C. with horribly sprained ankle, lying in rivulet !" All the danger was over when Dickens sent his description- but great had been the trouble in binding up the sufferer's ankle and getting him painfully on. shoving, shouldering, carrying alternately till terra firma was reached. "We got down at last in the wildest place, preposterously out of the course; and, propping up C against stones, sent Mr. P. to the other side of Cumberland for dog-cart so got back to his mu. and clinnged. Shoe or stocking on the bad foot out of the question. Foot bundled up in a flannel waistcoast C D carrying. C. melodramatically (Wardour to the life!) everywhere* into and out of carriages; up and down stairs; to bed; every step' And so to Wigton. got doctor, and here we are!! A pretty business we flatter ourselves!" ... ^ j On their way home the friends were at Doncaster, and this was Dickens s first experience of the St. Leger and its saturnalia. His com- panion had by this time so far recovered as to be able, doubled-up to walk with a thick stick; in which condition, "being exactly like the gputy admural in a comedy I have given him that name." The impres- sions received from the race-week were not favourable. It was noise and turmoil all day long, and a gathering of vagabonds from all parts of the racing earth. Every bad face that had ever caught wickedness from an innocent horse had its representative in the streets; and as Dickens, like Gulliver looking down upon his fellow-men after coming Irom the horse-country, looked down into Doncaster High Street from his iiiu -Window, he seemed to see everywhere a then notorious per- sonage who had jugt poisoned his betting-companion. "Everywhere I The Life of Charles Dickens :o the last) reassured. limentarj\ 1 compass, who never on Carrick )arker and ivo. Mr. P. . and to C. and never 'just fairly tive in the nee more. '. D. to go f precipice ide. More , thunder- > the river, ds. Mr. P. ly. Leaps, i. Cries for ' sprained ption; but ankle and ternately, le wildest C. against >g-cart, so ! bad foot ast. C. D. srywhere; /ery step, business, this was His com- led-up, to y like the le impres- was noise I all parts ickedness s; and as ;r coming reet from ious per- ywhere I 589 see the late Mr. Palmer with his betting-book in his hand. Mr. Palmer sits next me at the theatre; Mr. Palmer goes before me down the street; Mr. Palmer follows rae into the chemist's shop where I go to buy rose-water after breakfast, and says to the chemist 'Give us soom sal volatile or soom damned thing o' that soort, in wather — my head's bad !' And I look at the back of his bad head repeated in long, long lines on the race course, and in the betting-stand and outside the betting-rooms in the town, and I vow to God that I can see nothing in it but cruelty, covetousness, calculation, insensibility, and low wickedness." Even a half-appalling kind of luck was not absent from my friend's experiences at the race course, when, what he called a "wonderful, paralysing, coincidence" befell him. He bought the card; facetiously wrote down three names for the winners of the three chief races (never in his life having heard or thought of any of the horses, except that the winner of the Derby, who proved to be nowhere, had been men- tioned to him); "and, if you can believe it without your hair standing on end, those three races were won, one after another, by those three horses! ! !" That was the St. I^eger Day, of which he also thought it noticeable, that, though the losses were enormous, nobody had won, for there was nothing but grinding of teeth and blaspheming of ill- luck. Nor had matters mended on the Cup-day, after which celebra- tion "a groaning phantom " lay in the doorway of his bedroom and howled all night. The landlord came up in the morning to apologise, ' 'and said it was a gentleman who had lost ;^i5oo or ;^2ooo; and he had drunk a deal afterwards; and then they put him to bed, and then he — took the 'orrors, and got up, and yelled till morning." Dickens might well believe, as he declared at the end of his letter, that if a boy with any good in him, but with a dawning propensity to sporting and betting, were but brought to the Doncaster races soon enough, it would cure him. II WHAT HAPPENED AT THIS TIME 1857-8 An unsettled feeling greatly in exces" f what was usual with Dickens, more or less observable since his first residence at Boulogne, became ai :his time almost habitual, and the satisfactions which home should have supplied, and which indeed were essential requirements of his nature, he had failed to find in his home= He had not the alternative that under this disappointment some can discover in what is called society. It did not suit him, and he set no store by it. No man was I S 'I i V n 590 The Life of Charles Dickens 11*84 better fitted to adorn any circle he entered, but beyond that of f-'^nds and equals he rarely passed. He would take as much pains to keep ©ut of the houses of the great as others take to get into them. Not always wisely, it may be admitted. Mere contempt for toadyism and fliunkeyism was not at all times the prevailing motive with him which he supposed it to be. Beneath his horror of those vices of Englishmen in his own rank of life, there was a still stronger resentment at the social inequalities that engender them, of which he was not so conscious and to which he owned less freely. Not the less it served secretly to justify what he might otherwise have had no mind to. To say he was not a gentleman would be as true as to say he was not a writer; but if anyone should assert his occasional preference for what was even beneath his level over that which was above it, this would be difficult of disproof. It was among those defects of tempera- ment for which his early trials and his early successes were account- able in perhaps equal measure. He was sensitive in a passionate degree to praise and blame, which yet he made for the most part a point of pride to assume indifference to; the inequalities of rank which he secretly resented took more galling as well as glaring prominence from the contrast of the necessities he had gone through with the fame that had come to him; and when the forces he most affected to despise assumed the form of barriers he could not easily overlap, he was led to appear frequently intolerant (for he very seldom was really so) in opinions and language. His early sufferings brought with them the healing powers of energy, will, and persistence, and taught him the inexpressible value of a determined resolve to live down difficul- ties; but the habit, in small as in great things, of renunciation and self-sacrifice, they did not teach; and, by his sudden leap into a world-wide popularity and influence, he became master of everything that might seem to be attainable in life, before he had mastered what a man must undergo to be equal to its hardest trials. Nothing of all this has yet presented itself to notice, except in occasion.- 1 forms of restlessness and desire of change of place, which were themselves, when his books were in progress, so incident as well to the active requirements of his fancy as to call, thus far, for no other explanation. Uj io the date of the' completion of Copper field he had felt himself to be in possession of an all-sufficient resource. Against whatever might befall he had a set-off in his imaginative creations, a compensation derived from his art that never failed him, because there he was supreme. It was the world he could bend to his will, and make subserve to all his desires. He had otherwise, underneath his exterior of a singular precision, method, and strictly orderly arrange- ment in all things, and notwithstanding a temperament to which home and home interests were really a necessity, something in com- mon with those eager, impetuous, somewhat overbearing natures, that rush at existence without heeding the cost of it, and are not more ready to accept and make the most of its enjoyments than to be easily and quickly overthrown by its burdens. But the world he had The Life of Charles Dickens 591 ,tof f-'^nds ins to keep them. Not idyism and him which englishmen lent at the i^as not so ivS it served o mind to. he was not ference for ove it, this )f tempera- ■e account- passionate lost part a rank which )rominence h with the affected to jverlap, he . was really with them aught him vn diflficul- iation and sap into a everything tered what except in ace, which ent as well Dr no other leld he had ;e. Against reations, a n, because is will, and ;rneath his ly arrange- : to which ng in com- ig natures, e not tnoTP. ;han to be )rld he had called into being had thus far borne him safely through these perils. He had his own creations always by his side. They were living, speaking companions. With them only he was everywhere thoroughly identified. He laughed and wept with them; was as much elated by their fun as cast down by their grief; and brought to the consideration of them a belief in their reality as well as in the influences they were meant to exercise, which in every circumstance sustained him. It was during the composition of Little Dorrit that I think he firsl fblc a certain strain upon his invention which brought with it other misgivings. In a modified form this was present during the later portions of Bleak House, of which not a few of the defects might be traced to the acting excitements amid which it was written; but the succeeding book made it plainer to him; and it is remarkable that ia the interval between them he resorted for the first and only time in his life to a practice, which he abandoned at the close of his next and last story published in the twenty-number form, of putting down written "Memoranda" of suggestions for characters or incidents by way of resource to him in his writing. Never before had his teeming fancy seemed to want such help; the need being less to contribute to its fulness than to check its overflowing; but it is another proof that he had been secretly bringing before himself, at least, the possibility that what had ever been his great support might some day desert him. It was strange that he should have had such doubt, and he would hardly have confessed it openly; but apart from that wonder- ful world of his books, the range of his thoughts was not always pro- portioned to the width and largeness of his nature. His ordinary circle of activity, whether in likings or thinkings, was full of such surprising animation, that one was apt to believe it more comprehensive than it really was; and again and again, when a wide horizon might seem to be ahead of him he would pull up suddenly and stop short, as though nothing lay beyond. For the tine, though each had its term and change, he was very much a man of one idea, each having its turn of absolute predominance; and this was one of the secrets of the thoroughness with which everything he took in hand w s done. As to the matter of his writings, the actual truth was that his creative genius never really failed him. Not a few of his inventions of character and humour, up to the very close of his life, his Marigolds, Lirripers, Gargerys, Pips, Sapseas and many others, were as fresh and fine as in his greatest day. He had however lost the free and fertile method of the earlier time. He could no longer fill a wide-spread canvas with the same facility and certainty as of old; and he had frequently a quite unfounded apprehension of some possible breakdown, of which the end might be at any moment beginning. There can accordingly, from time to time, intervals of unusual impatience aud restlessness, strange to me in connection with his home; his old pursuits were too often laid aside for other excitements and occupations; he joined a public political agitation, set on foot by administrative reformers; h§ ■L>-1 592 The Life of Charles Dickens ,H got up various quasi-public private theatricals, in which he took the leading place; and though it was but part of his always generous devo- tion in any friendly duty to organise the series of performances on his friend Jerrold's death, yet the eagerness with which he flung himself into them, so arranging them as to assume an amount of labour in acting and travelling that might have appalled an experienced comedian, and carrying them on week after week unceasingly in London and the provinces, expressed but the craving which still had possession of him to get by some means at some change that should make existence easier. What was highest in his nature had ceased for the time to be highest in his life, and he had put himself at the mercy of lower accidents and conditions. The mere effect of the strolling wandering ways into which this acting led him could not be other than unfavourable. But remonstrance as yet was unavailing. To one very earnestly made in the early autumn of 1857, in which opportunity was taken to compare his recent rush up Carrick Fell to his rush into other difficulties, here was the reply. "Too late to say, put the curb on, and don't rush at hills- -the wrong man to say it to. T have now no relief but in action. I am become incapable of rest. I am quite confident I should rust, break, and die, if I spar, i myself. Much better to die, doing. What I am in that way, nature made me first, and my way of life has of late, alas ! confirmed. I must accept the drawback — since it is one — with the powers I have; and I must hold upon the tenure prescribed to me." Something of the same sad feeling, it is right to say, had been expressed from time to time, in connection also with home dissatisfactions and misgivings, through the three years preceding; but I attributed it to other causes, and gave little attention to it. During his absences abroad for the greater part of 1854, '55, and '56, while the elder of his children were growing out of childhood, and his books were less easy to him than in his earlier man- hood, evidences presented themselves in his letters of the old "un- happy loss or want of something" to which he had given a pervading prominence in Copperfield. In the first of those years he made express allusion to the kind of experience which had been one of his descrip- tions in that favourite book, and', mentioning the drawbacks of his present life, had first identified it with his own: "the so happy and yet so unhappy existence which seeks its realities in unrealities, and finds its dangerous comfort in a perpetual escape from the disappoint- ment of heart around it." JLater in the same year he thus wrote from Boulogne: "I have had dreadful thoughts of getting away somewhere altogether by myself. If I could have managed it, I think possibly I might have gone to the P)a'eennees (you know what I mean that word for, so I won't rewrite it) for six months ! I have put the idea into the perspective of .six months but have not abandoned it. I have visions of livinsy for half a year or so, in all sorts of inaccessible places, and opening a new book therein. A floating idea of going up above the snow-line in The Life of Charles Dickens 593 he took the erous devo- inces on his ling himself )f labour in jxperienced easingly in ch still had liange that nature had put himself sre effect of I him could ,s yet was 17, in which Warrick Fell late to say, to say it to. le of rest. I n J myself, re made me t accept the [ must hold sad feeling, connection ti the three gave little iter part of wing out of earlier man- le old "un- 1 pervading ade express his descrip- )acks of his happy and jalities, and disappoint- 'I have had • by myself, gone to the so I won't rspective of 3f livinp' for ening a new now-line in Switzerland, and living in some astonishing convent, hovers about me. If Household Words could be got into a good train, in short, I don't know in what strange place, or at what remote elevation above the level of the sea, I might fall to work next. Restlessness, you will say. Whatever it is, it is always driving me, and I cannot help it. I have rested nine or ten weeks, and sometimes feel as if it had been a year — though I had the strangest nervous miseries before I stopped. If I couldn't walk fast and far, I should just explode and perish." Again, four months later he wrote: "You will hear of me in Paris, probably next Sunday, and I may go on to Bordeaux. Have general ideas of emigrating in the summer to th«f» mountain-ground between France and Spain. Am altogether in & . .hevslled state of mind — motes of new books in the dirty air, miseries of older growth, threaten- ing to close upon me. Why is it, that as with poor David, a sense comes always crushing on me now, when I fall into low spirits, as of one happiness I have missed in life, and one friend and companion I have never made?" Early in 1856 (20 January) the notion revisited him of writing a book on solitude. "Again I am beset by my former notions of a book whereof the whole story shall be on the top of the Great St. Bernard. As I accept and reject ideas for Little Dorrit, it perpetually comes back to me. Two or three years hence, perhaps you'll find me living with he Monks and the Dogs a whole winter — among the blinding snows that fall about that monastery I have a serious idea that I shall do it, if I live." He was at this date in Paris; and during the visit to him of Macready in the following April, the self-revelations were resumed. The great actor was then living in retirement at Sherborne, to which he had gone on quitting the stage; and Dickens gave favourable report of his enjoyment of the change to his little holiday at Paris. . . . It would be unjust and uncandid not to admit that these and othej similar passages in the letters th?.t extended over the years while he lived abroad, had served in some degree as a preparation for what came after his return to England in the following year. It came with a great shock nevertheless; because it told plainly what before had never been avowed, but only hinted at more or less obscurely. The opening reference is to the reply which had been made to a previous expression of his wish for some confidences as in the old time. I give only what is strictly necessary to account for what followed, and even this with deep reluctance. "Your ' tter of yesterday was so kind and hearty, and sounded so gently tJae many chords we have touched together, that I cannot leave it unanswered, though I have not much (to any purpose) to say. My reference to 'confidences' was merely to the relief of saying a word of what has long been pent up in my mind. Poor Catherine and I are not made for each other, and there is no help for it= It is not only that she makes me uneasy and unhappy, but that I make her so too — and much more so. She is exactly what you know, in the way of being amiable and complying; but we are I 'J: ^l*-'' 594 The Life of Charles Dickens I) f^ g J strangely ill-assorted for the bond there is between us. God knows she would have been a thousand times happier if she had married another kmd of man, and that her avoidance of this destiny would have been at least equally good for us both. I am often cut to the heart by think- ing what a pity it is, for her own sake, that I ever fell in her way; and if I were sick or disabled to-morrow, I know how sorry she would be and how deeply grievec myself, to think how we had lost each other! But exactly the same incompatibility would arise, the moment I was well again; and nothing on earth could make her understand me, or suit us to each other. Her temperament will not go with mine.' It mattered not so much when we had only ourselves to consider, but reasons hav« been growing since which make it all but hopeless'that we should even try to struggle on. What is now befalling me I have seen steadily coming, ever since the days you remember when Mary was born; and I know too well that you cannot, and no one can, help me. Why I have e\^en written I hardly know; but it is a miserable sort of comfort that you should be clearly aware how matters stand. The mere mention of the fact, without any complaint or blame of any sort, is a relief to my present state of spirits— and I can get this only from you, because I can speak of it to no one else." In the same tone was his rejoinder to my reply. "To the most part of what you say— Amen ! You are not so tolerant as perhaps you might be of the way- ward and unsettled feeling which is part (I suppose) of the tenure on which one holds an imaginative life, and which I have, as you ought to know well, often only kept down by riding over it like a dragoon- but let that go by. I make no maudlin complaint. I agree with you as to the very possible incidents, even not less bearable than mine, that might and must often occur to the married condition when it is entered into very young. I am always deeply sensible of the wonderful exercise I have of life and its highest sensations, and have said to my- self for years, and have honestly and truly felt. This is the drawback to such a career, and is not to be complained of. I say it and feel it now as strongly as ever I did; and. as I told you in my last, I do not with that view put all this forward. But the years have not made it easier to bear for either of us; and, for her sake as well as mine, the wish will force itself upon me that something might be done. I know too well it is impossible. There is the fact, and that is all one can say. Nor are you to suppose that I disguise from myself what might be urged on the other side. I clajm no immunity from blame. There is plenty of fault on my side. I dare say, in the way of a thousand uncertainties, caprices, and difficulties of disposition; but only one thing will alter all that, and that is, the end which alters everjrthing." It will not seem to most people that there was anything here which in happier circumstances might not have been susceptible of consider- ate adjustment; but all the circumstances were unfavourable, and the moderate middle course which the admissions in that letter might wisely have prompted and wholly justified, was unfortunately not od knows she tried another lid have been art by think- her way; and ihe would be, it each other, loment I was stand me, or dth mine. It consider, but lopeless that ig me I have r when Mary )ne can, help liserable sort s stand. The lame of any get this only le same tone it you say — ! of the way- he tenure on is you ought a dragoon — ■ee with you i than mine, )D when it is le wonderful J said to my- le drawback t and feel it ist, I do not not made it as mine, the one. I know one can say. at might be ne. There is a thousand ; but only vhich alters I here which of consider- ,ble, and the letter might unately not awTTiTrii'ii BiMitaaai^KwJ The Life of Charles Dickens 595 taken. Compare what before was said of his temperament, with what is there said by himself of its defects, and the explanation will not be difficult. Every counteracting influence against '■he one idea which now predominated over him had been so weakei.od as to be almost powerless. His elder children were no longer children; his books had lost for the time the importance they formerly had over every other consideration in his life; and he had not in himself the resource that such a man, judging him from the surface, might be expected to have had. Not his genius only, but his whole nature, was too exclusively made up of sympathy for, and with, the real in its most intense form, to be sufficiently provided against failure in the realities around him. There was for him no " city of the mind " against outward ills, for inner consolation and shelter. It was in and from the actual he still stretched forward to find the freedom and satisfaction of an ideal, and by his very attempts to escape the world he was driven back into the thick of it. But what he would have sought there, it supplies to none; and to get the infinite out of anything so finite, has broken many a stout heart. At the close of that last letter from Gadshill (5 September) was this question — "What do you think of my paying for this place, by reviving that old idea of some readings from my books. I am strongly tempted. Think of it." The reasons against it had great force, and took, in my judgment, greater from the time at which it was again proposed. The old ground of opposition remained. It was a substitu- tion of lower for higher aims; a change to commonplace from more elevated pursuits; and it had so much of the character of a public exhibition for money as to raise, in the question of respect for his calling as a writer, a question also of respect for himself as a gentle- man. This opinion, now strongly reiterated, was referred ultimately to two distinguished ladies of his acquaintance, who decided against it. Yet not without such momentary misgiving in the direction of "the stage," as pointed strongly to the danger, which, by those who took the opposite view, was most of all thought incident to the particular time of the proposal. It might be a wild exaggeration to fear that he was in danger of being led to adopt the stage as a calling, but he was certainly about to place himself within reach of not a few of its drawbacks and disadvantages. To the full extent he per- haps did not himself know, how much his eager present wish to become a public reader was but the outcome of the restless domestic discontents of the last four years; and that to indulge it, and the unsettled habits inseparable from it, was to abandon every hope of resettling his disordered home. There is nothing, in its application to so divine a genius as Shakespeare, more affecting than his expressed dislike to a profession, which, in the jealous self-watchfulness of his noble nature, he feared might hurt his mind. The long subsequent ,r _ _.i «& rra-n-4-la . ^ J.,.u, ^»^ V.1^ •*« «.»«-^ « *«^ 4-.^ r\e^ •!.<* -.-^..Vkll/^ l-t-f^i O-n/1 oil ■♦•n lillC Ui U,V;LUXZ>, <XUmii<XUIC m ^ixvavc as iil ynuil-u J.iiv, cmU wis. Hi and generous associations of the histrionic art, have not weakened the testimony of its greatest name against its less favourable !■• 1 ■ri ll 596 The Life of Charles Dickens i; r ! 1 influences; against the laxity of habits it may encourage; and its public manners, bred of public means, not always compatible with home feUcities and duties. But, freely open as Dickens was to counsel in regard of his books, he was, for reasons formerly stated, less accessible to it on points of personal conduct; and when he had neither self-distrust nor self-denial to hold him back, he would push persistently forward to whatever object he had in view. An occurrence of the time hastened the decision in this case. An enterprise had been set on foot for establishment of a hospital for sick children; a large old-fashioned mansion in Great Ormond Street, with spacious garden, had been fitted up with more than thirty beds; during the four or five years of its existence, outdoor and indoor relief had been afforded by it to nearly fifty thousand children, of whom thirty thousand were under five years of age; but, want of funds having threatened to arrest the merciful work, it was resolved to try a public dinner by way of charitable appeal, and for president the happy choice was made of one who had enchanted everybody with the joys and sorrows of little children. Dickens threw himself into the service heart and soul. There was a simple pathos in his address from the chair quite startling in its effect at such a meeting; and he probably never moved any audience so much as by the strong personal feeling with which he referred to the sacrifices made for the Hospital by the very poor themselves: from whom a subscription of fifty pounds, contributed in single pennies, had come to the treasurer during almost every year it had been open. The whole speech, indeed, is the best oi "he kind spoken by him; and two little pictures from i-^, one of the misery he had witnessed, the other of the remedy he had found, should not be absent from the picture of his own life. "Some years ago, being in Scotland, I went with one of the most humane members of the most humane of professions, on a morning tour among some of the worst lodged inhabitants of the old town of Edinburgh. In the closes and wynds of that picturesque place (I am sorry to remind you what fast friends picturesqueness and typhus often are) , we saw more poverty and sickness in an hour than many people would believe in, in a lifeV Our way lay from one to another of the most wretched dwellings, reeking with horrible odours; shut out from the sky and from the air, mere pits and dens. In a room in one of these places, where there was an empty porridge-pot on the cold hearth, a ragged woman and some ragged children crouching on the bare ground near it — and, I remember as I speak, where the very light, refracted from a high damp-stained wall outside, came in trembling, as if the fever which had shaken everything else had shaken even it — there lay, in an old egg-box which the mother had begged from a shop, a little feeble, wan, sick child. With his little wasted face, and his little hot worn hands folded over his breast, and his little bright attentive eyes, I can see him now, as I have seen him for several years, looking steadily at us. There he lay in his small ige; and its patible with IS to counsel stated, less tien he had would push [lis case. An hospital for lond Street, than thirty mtdoor and nd children, )ut, want of v^as resolved or president I everybody rew himself ithos in his I a meeting; y the strong lade for the subscription jme to the The whole id two little :he other of e picture of of the most 1 a morning old town of place (I am and typhus than many I to another dours; shut n a room in -pot on the 1 crouching :, where the de, came in ig else had mother had th his little breast, and ve seen him n his small The Life of Charles Dickens 597 (rail box, which was not at all a bad emblem of the small body Irora which he was slowly parting— there he lay, quite quiet, quite patient, saying never a word. He seldom cried, the mother said; he seldom complained; 'he lay there, seemin' to woonder w' at it was a' aboot.' (}od knows, I thought, as I stood 'coking at hJm, he had his reasons for wondering . . . Many a poor child, sick and neglected, I have seen since that time in London; many have I also seen most affection- ately tended, in unwholesome houses and hard circumstances where recovery was impossible: but at all such times I have seen my little drooping friend in his egg-box, and he has always addressed his dumb wonder to me what it meant, and why, in the name of a gracious God, such things should be! . . . But, ladies and gentlemen," Dickons added, "such things need not be, and will not be, if this company, which is a drop of the life-blood of the great compassionate public heart, will only accept the means of rescue and prevention which it is mine to offer. Within a quarter of a mile of this place where I speak, stands a once courtly old house, where blooming children were bom, and grew up to be men and women, and married, and brought their own blooming children back to patter up the old oak staircase which stood but the other day, and to wonder at the old oak carvings on the chimney-pieces. In the airy wards into which the old state drawing-rooms and family bedchambers of that house are now converted, are lodged such small patients that the attendant nurses look like reclaimed giantesses, and the kind medical practi- tioner like an amiable Christian ogre. Grouped about the little lov/ tables in the centre of the rooms, are such tiny convalescents that they seem to be playing at having been ill. On the doll's beds are such diminutive creatures that each poor sufferer is supplied with its trays of toys; and, looking round, you may see how the little tired flushed cheek has toppled over half the brute creation on its way into the ark ; or how one little dimpled arm has mowed down (as I saw myself) the whole tin soldiery of Europe. On the walls of these rooms are graceful, pleasant, bright, childish pictures. At the beds' heads, hang representations of the figure of Him who was once a child Himself, and a poor one. But alas! reckoning up the number of beds that are there, the '"^sitor to this Child's Hospital will find himself perforce obliged to stop at very little over thirty; and will learn, with sorrow and surprise, that even that small number, so forlornly, so miserably diminutive compared with this vast London, cannot possibly be maintained unless the Hospital be made better known. I limit myself to saying better known, because I will not be- liev. -^pt in a Christian community of fathers and mothers, and broth- rs and sisters, it can fail, being better Jaiown, to be well and richly endowed." It was a brave and true prediction. The Child's Hospital has never since known want. That night alone added greatly more than three thousand pounds to its funds, and Dickens put the crown to his good work by reading on its behalf, shortly afterwards, his Christmas Carol; when the sum realised, and the urgent demand I 'I 598 The Life of Charles Dickens that followed for a repetition of the pleasure given by the reading, bore down further opposition to the project of his engaging publicly in such readings for himself. The Child's Hospital night was 9 February, its reading was appointed for 15 April, and, nearly a month before, renewed efforts at remonstrance had been made. "Your view of the reading matter," Dickens replied, "I still think is unconsciously taken from your own particular point. You don't seem to me to jet out of yourself in con- sidering it. A word more upon it. You are not to think I have made up my mind. If I had, why should I rot say so? I find very great diffi- culty in doing so because of what you urge, because I know the question to be a balance of doubts, and because I most honestly feel in my innermost heart, in this matter (as in all others for years and years), the honour of the calling by which I have always stood most conscientiously. But do you quite consider that the public exhibition of oneself takes place equally, whosoever may get the money.^ And have you any idea that at this moment — this very time — half the publix. at least supposes me to be paid? My dear F., out of the twenty or five-andr twenty letters a week that I get about readings, twenty will ask at what price, or on what terms, it can be done. The only exceptions, in truth, are when the correspondent is a clergyman, or a banker, or the member for the place in question. Why at this very time half Scotland believes that I am paid for going to Edin- burgh! — Here is Greenock writes to me, and asks could it be done for a hundred pounds? There is Aberdeen writes, and states the capa- city of its hall, and says, though far less profitable than the very large hall in Edinburgh, is it not enough to come on for? W. answers such letters continually. ( — At this place enter Beale. He called here yester- day morning, and then wrote to ask if I would see him to-day. I replied 'Yes,' so here he came in. With long preface called to know whether it was possible to arrange anything in the way of readings for this autumn — say six months. Large capital at command. Could produce partners, in such an enterprise, also with large capital. Represented such. Returns would be enormous. Would I name a sum? a minimum sum that I required to have, in any case? Would I look at it as a Fortune, and in^no other point of view? I shook my head, and said, my tongue was tied on the subject for the present; I might be more communicative at another time. Exit Beale in con- fusion and disappointment.) — You will be happy to hear that at one on Friday, the Lord Provost, Dean of Guild, Magistrates, and Council of the ancient city of Edinburgh will wait (in procession) on their brother freeman, at the Music Hall, to give him hospitable welcome. Their brother freeman has been cursing their stars and his own, ever since tlie solemn notification to this effect." But very grateful, when it came, was the enthusiasm of the greetmg, and welcome the gift of the silver wassail-bowl which followed the reading of the Carol. "i had no opportunity of asking anyone's advice in Edinburgh," he wrote on his return. "The crowd was too enormous, and the excite- •asa 11 —"" The Life of Charles Dickens the reading, ging publicly reading was levved efforts iing matter," am your own urself in con- lave made up ■y great difti- I know the honestly feel "or years and s stood most lie exhibition money? And ne — half the if the twenty ings, twenty le. The only I clergyman, Why at this ing to Edin- d it be done tes the capa- he very large mswers such 1 here yester- im to-day. I lied to know T of readings mand. Could irge capital. Id I name a case? Would I shook my he present; I Jeale in con- r that at one , and Council on) on their ble welcome, lis own, ever ateful, when 9me the gift )f the Carol. nburgh," he d the excite- 599 ment in it much too great. But my determination is all but taken. I must do something, or I shall wear my heart away. I can see no better thing to do that is half so hopeful in itself, or half so well suited to my restless state." What is pointed at in those last words had been taken as a ground of objection, and thus he turned it into an argument the other way. During all these months many sorrowful misunderstandings had continued in his home, and the relief sought from the misery- had but the effect of making desperate any hope of a better understanding. "It becomes necessary," he wrote at the end of March, "with a view to the arrangements that would have to be begun next month if I decided on the readings, to consider and settle the question of the Plunge. Quite dismiss fiom your mind any reference whatever to present circumstances, at home. Nothing can put them right, until we are all dead and buried and risen. It is not, with me, a matter of will or trial, or sufferance, or good humour, or making the best of it, or making the worst of it, any longer. It is all despairingly over. Have no lingering hope of, or for, me in this association. A dismal failure has to be borne, and there an end. Will you then try to think of this reading project (as I do) apart from all personal likings and dis- likings, and solely with a view to its effect on that particular relation (personally affectionate and like no other man's) which subsists Detween me and the public? I want your most careful consideration. If you would like, when you have gone over it in your mind, to dis- cuss the matter with me and Arthur Smith (who would manage the whole of the Business, which I should never touch); we will make an appointment. But I ougnt to add that Arthur Smith plainly says, 'Of the immense return in money, I have no doubt. Of the Dash into the new position, however, I am not so good a judge.' I enclose you a rough note of my project, as it stands in my mind." Mr. Arthur Smith, a man possessed of many qualities that justified the confidence Dickens placed in him, might not have been a good judge of the "Dash" into the new position, but no man knevv better every disadvantage incident to it, or was less likely to be disconcerted by any. His exact fitness to manage the scheme successfully, made him an unsafe counsellor respecting it. Within a week from this time the reading for the Charity was to be given. "They have let," Dickens wrote on g April, "five hundred stalls for the Hospital night; and as people come every day for more, and it is out of the question tp make more, they cannot be restrained at St. Martin's Hall from taking down names for other readings." This closed the attempt at further objection. Exactly a fortnight after the reading for the children's hospital, on Thursday, 29 April, came the first public reading, for his own benefit; and before the next month was over, this launch into a new life had been followed by a change in his old home. Thenceforward he and his wife lived apart. The eldest son went with his mother, Dickens at o. e giving effect to her expressed wish in this respect; and the other children remained with himself. i-'li 6oo The Life of Charles Dickens M h their intercourse with Mrs. Dickens being left entirely to themselves. It was thus far an arrangement of a strictly private natur*?, and no decent person could have had excuse for regarding it in any other light, if pubic attention had not been unexpectedly invited to it by a printed statement in Household Words. Dickens was stung into this by some miserable gossip at which in ordinary circumstances no man would more determinedly have been silent; but he had now publicly to show himself, at stated times, as a public entertainer, and this, with his name even so aspersed, he found to be impossible. All he would concede to my strenuous resistance against such a publication, was an offer to suppress it, if, upon reference to the opin- ion of a certain distinguished man (still living), that opinion should prove to be in agreement with mine. Unhappily it fell in with his own, and the publication went on. It was followed by another statement, a letter subscribed with his name, which got into print without his sanction; nothing publicly being known of it (I was not among those who had read it privately) until it appeared in the New York Tribune. It had been addressed and given to Mr. Arthur Smith as an authority for correction of false rumours and scandals, and Mr. Smith had given a copy of it, with like intention, to the Tribune correspondent in London. Its writer referred to it always afterwards as his "violated letter." The course taken by the author of this book at the time of these occurrences, will not be departed from here. Such illustration of grave defects in Dickens's character as the passage in his life affords, I have not shrunk from placing side by side with such excuses in regard to it as he had unquestionable right to claim should be put forward also. How far what remained of his story took tone or colour from it, and especially from the altered career on which at the same time he entered, will thus be sufficiently explained; and with any- thing else the public have nothing to do. Ill GADSHILL PLACE 1856-70 "I WAS better pleased with Gadshill Place last Saturday," he wrote to me from Paris on 13 February, 1856, "on going down there, even than I had prepared myself to be. The country, against every disadvantage of season, is beautiful; and the house is so old-fashioned, cheerful, and comfortable, that it is really pleasant to look at. The twenty ycara, so i have not the heart to turn him out. He is to remain till Lady Day ) themselves, tur*?, and no in any other ited to it by s stung into imstances no he had now entertainer, impossible, ^inst such a i to the opin- •inion should Arith his own, !r statement. ; without his among those ^ork Tribune. an authority th had given jspondent in lis "violated ime of these lustration of s life affords, h excuses in lould be put )ne or col<v;:. at the saaiu d with any- The Life of Charles Dickens 6oi /," he wrote down there, gainst every d-fashioned, look at. The y years, so I 11 Lady Day next year, when I shall go in, please God; make my alterations; furnish the house; and keep it for myself that summer." Returning to England through the Kentish country with Mr. Wilkie Collins m July, other advantages occurred to him. "A railroad opened from Rochester to Maidstone, which connects Gadshill at once with the whole sea coast, is certainly an addition to the place, and an enhance- ment of its value. By and by we shall have the London, Chatham and Dover, too; and that will bring it within an hour of Canterbury and an hour and a half of Dover. I am glad to hear of your havi.-'g been in the neighbourhood. There is no healthier (marshes avoided), and none in my eyes more beautiful. One of these days I shall show you some places up the Medway with which you will be charmed." The association with his youthful fancy that first made the p? ce attractive to him has been told; and it was with wonder he had heard one (lay, from his friend and fellow-worker at Household Words, Mr. W. H. Wills, that not only was the house for sale to which he had so often looked wistfully, but that the lady chiefly interested as its owner had been long known and much esteemed by himself. Such curious chances led Dickens to the saying he so frequently repeated about the smallness of the world; but the close relation often found thus existing bet\/een things and persons far apart, suggests not so much the smallness of the world as the possible importance of the least things done in it, and is better explained by the grander teaching of Carlyle, that causes and effects, connecting e\ ery man and thing with every other, extend through all space and time. It was at the close of 1855 the negotiation for its purchase be^an. "They wouldn't," he wrote (25 November), "take ;^i70o for the Gadshill property, but 'finally' wanted ;^i8oo. I have finally offere I ;/;i750. It will require an expenditure of about ;^3oo more before yielding ;^ioo a year." The usual discovery of course awaited him that this first estimate would have to be increased threefold. "The changes absolutely necessary" (y February, 1856) "will take a thou- sand pounds; which sum I am always resolving to squeeze out of this, grind out of that, and wring out of the other; this, that, and the other generally all three declining to come up to the scratch for the pur- pose." "This day," he wrote on 14 March, "I have paid the purchase- money for Gadshill Place. After drawing the cheque (1790) I turned round to give it to Wills, and said, 'Now isn't it an extraordinary thing — look at tlxe Day — Friday! I have been nearly drawin it half a dozen times when the lawyers have not been ready, and here it comes round upon a Friday as a matter of course.' " He had no thought at this time of reserving the place wholly for himself, or of making it his own residence except at intervals of summer. He looked upon it as an investment only. "You will hardly know Gads- hill again," he wrote in January 1858, "I am impro^dng it so much yet I have no interest in the place." But continued ownership I i* • !-♦; ; 'f M 1 ' £1 602 The Life of Charles Dickens brought increased liking; he took more and more interest in his own improvements, which were just the kind of occasional occupation and resource his life most wanted in its next seven or eight years; and any further idea of letting it he soon abandoned altogether. It only once passed out of his possession thus, for four months in 1859; in the following year, on the sale of Tavistock House, he transferred to it his books and pictures and choicer furniture; and thenceforward varied only by houses taken from time to time for the London season, he made it his permanent family abode. Now and then, even during those years, he would talk of selling it; and on his final return from America, when he hdd sent the last of his sons out into the world, he really might have sold it if he could then have found a house in London suitable to him, and such as he could purchase. But in this he failed; secretly to his own satisfaction, as I believe; and thereupon, in that last autumn of his life, he projected and carried out his most costly addition to Gadshill. Already of course more money had been spent upon it than his first intention in buying it would have justified. He had so enlarged the accommodation, improved the grounds and offices, and added to the land, that, taking also into account this closing outlay, the resen'^ed price placed upon the whole after his death more than quadrupled what he had given in 1856, for the house, shrubbery, and twenty years' lease of a meadow field. It was then purchased, and is now inhabited, by his eldest son. Its position has been described, and a history of Rochester pub- lished a hundred years ago quaintly mentions the principal interest of the locality. "Near the twenty-seventh stone from London is Gadshill, supposed to have been the scene of the robbery mentioned by Shakespeare in his play of Henry I V.; there being reason to think also that it was Sir John Falstaff, of truly comic memory, who under the name of Oldcastle inhabited Cooling Castle, of which the ruins are in the neighbourhood. A small distance to the left appears on an eminence the Hermitage, the seat of the late Sir Francis Head, Bart.; and close to the road, on a small ascent, is a neat building lately erected by Mr. Day. In descending Strood Hill is a fine prospect of Strood, Rochester, and Chatham, ^which three towns form a continued street extending above two miles in length." It had been supposed that "the neat building lately erected by Mr. Day" was that which the great novelist made famous; but Gadshill Place had no existence until eight years after the date of the history. The good rector who so long lived in it told me, in 1859, that it had been built eighty years before by a well-known character in those parts, one Stevens, grand- father-in-law of Henslow the Cambridge professor of botany. Stevens, who could only with much difficulty manage to write his name, had begun life as ostler at an inn; had become husband to the landlord's widow; then a brewer; and finally, as he subscribed himself on one occasion, "mare" of Rochester. Afterwards the house was inhabited by Mr. Lynn (from some of the members of whose family Dickens made his purchase; and, before the Rev. Mr. Hindle became its tenant at in his own 1 occupation eight years; dtogether. It iths in 1859; e transferred enceforward ndon season, even during return from the world, d a house in . But in this d thereupon, out his most Ley had been ive justified, grounds and iccount this ole after his 856, for the field. It was Chester pub- ipal interest 1 London is Y mentioned son to think ', who under ch the ruins )pears on an Head, Bart.; ilding lately prospect of a continued en supposed ) that which no existence [ rector who eighty years vens, grand- ny. Stevens, s name, had le landlord's Qself on one IS inhabited lily Dickens ae its tenant The Life of Charles Dickens 60^. IS it was inhabited by a Macaroni parson named Townshend, whose liorses the Prince Regent bought, throwing into the bargain a box of much desired cigars. Altogether the place had notable associations even apart from those which have connected it with the masterpieces of English humour. "This House, Gadshill Place, stands on the summit of Shakespeare's Gadshill, ever memorable for its association with Sir Jo in Falstaff in his noble fancy. But, my lads, my lads, to- morrow morning, by four o'clock, early at Gadshill/ there are pilgrims going to Canterbury with rich offerings, and traders riding to London with fat purses; I have vizards for you all; you have horses for yourselves." Illuminated by Mr. Owen Jones, and placed in a frame on the first- floor landing, these words were the greeting of the new tenant to his visitors. It was his first act of ownership. . . . On abandoning his notion, after the American readhigs, of exchang- ing Gadshill for London, a new staircase was put up from the hill; a parquet floor laid on the first landing; and a conservatory built, open- ing into both drawing-room and dining-room, "glass and iron," as he described it, "brilliant but expensive, with foundations as of an ancient Roman work of horrible solidity." This last addition had long been an object of desire with him; though he would hardly even now have given himself the indulgence but for the golden shower from America. He saw it first in a completed state on the Sunday before his death, when his younger daughter was on a visit to him. "Well, Katey," he said to her, "now you see positively the last improve- ment at Gadshill"; and everyone laughed at the joke against himself. The success of the new conservatory was unquestionable. It was the remark of all around him that he was certainly, from this last of his improvements, drawing more enjoyment than from any of its pre- decessors, when the scene for ever closed. Of the course of his daily life in the country there is not much to be said. Perhaps there was never a man who changed places so much and habits so little. He was always methodical and regular; and passed his life from day to day, divided for the most part bet^ en working and walking, the same wherever he was. The only exception was when special or infrequent visitors were with him. When such friends as Longfellow and his daughters, or Charles Eliot Norton and his wife, came, or when Mr. Fields brought his wife and Professor Lowell's daughter, or when he received other Americans to whom he owed special courtesy, he would compress into infinitely few days an enormous amoant of sight-seeing and country enjoyment, castles, cathedrals, and fortified lines, lunches and picnics among cherry orchards and hop-gardens, excursions to Canterbury or Maidstone and their beautiful neighbourhoods, Druid Stone and Blue Bell Hill. "All the neighbouring country that could be shown in so short a time," he wrote of the Longfellow visit, "they saw. I turned out a couple of postilions in the old red jackets of the old red royal Dover road for our ride, and it was like a holiday ride in England fifty years ago." For Lord Lytton he did the same, for the Emerson wl 6o4 The Life of Charles Dickens "i M i Tennents, for Mr. Layard and Mr. Helps, for Lady Molesworth and the Higginses (Jacob Omnium), and such other less frequent visitors. Excepting on such particular occasions however, and not always even then, his mornings were reserved wholly to himself; and he would generally preface his morning work (such was his love of order in everything around him) by seeing that all was in its place in the several rooms, visiting also the dogs, stables, and kitchen garden, and closing, unless the weather was very bad indeed, with a turn or two round the meadow before settling to his desk. His dogs were a great enjoyment to him; and, with his high road traversed as frequently as any in England by tramps and wayfarers of a singularly undesirable description, they were also a necessity. There were always two, of the mastifif kind, but latterly the number increased. His own favourite was Turk, a noble animal, full of affection and intelligence, whose death by a railway accident, shortly after the Staplehurst catastrophe, caused him great grief. Turk's sole companion up to that date was Linda, puppy of a great St. Bernard brought over by Mr. Albert Smith, and grown into a superbly beautiful creature. After Turk there was an interval of an Irish dog. Sultan, given by Mr. Percy Fitgzerald; a cross between a St. Bernard and a bloodhound, built and coloured like a lioness and of splendid proportions, but of such indomitably aggres- sive propensities, that, after breaking his kennel-chain and nearly devouring a luckless little sister of one of the servants, he had to be killed. Dickens always protested that Sultan was a Fenian, for that no dog, not a secretly sworn member of that body, would ever have made such a point, muzzled as he was, of rushing at and bearing down with fury anything in scarlet with the remotest resemblance to a British uniform. Sultan's successor was Don, presented by Mr. Frederick Lehmann, a grand Newfoundland brought over very young, who with Linda became parent to a couple of Newfoundlands, that were still gambolling about their master, huge, though hardly out of puppydom, when they lost him. He had given to one of them the name of Bumble, from having observed, as he described it, "a peculiarly pompous and overbearing manner he had of appearing to mount guard over the yard when he was an absolute infant." Bumble v/as often in scrapes. Describing to Mr. Fields a drought in the summer of 1868, when thei- poor supply of ponds and surface w^lls had become waterless, he wrote: " I do not let the great dogs swini in the canal, because the people have to drink of it. But when they get into the Medway, it is hard to get them out again. The other day Bumble (the son, Newfoundland dog) got into difficulties among some floating timber, and became frightened. Don (the father) was stand- ing by me, shaking off the wet and looking on carelessly, when all of a sudden he perceived something amiss, and went in with a bound and brought Bumble out by the ear. The scientific way in which he towed {iim along was chufiiiing." . . . Round Cobham skirting the park and village, and passing the amiWiianaiii Molesworth less frequent d not always iself; and he love of order 1 place in the 1 garden, and 1, turn or two were a great frequently as J undesirable js two, of the wn favourite gence, whose catastrophe, hat date was Ubert Smith, there was an erald; a cross loured like a tably aggres- 1 and nearly he had to be lian, for that lid ever have rearing down nblanee to a ited by Mr. r very young, idlands, that tiardly out of of them the ;ribed it, "a appearing to .nt." Bumble )ught in the surface wells dogs switti in hen they get ae other day among some r) was stand- r, when all of a bound and ich he towed The Life of Chartes Dickens 605 [>eather Bottle famous in the page of Pickwick, was a favourite walk with Dickens. By Rochester and the Medway, to the Chatham Lines, was another. He would turn out of Rochester High Street through The Vines (where some old buildings, from one of which called Restoration House he took Satis House for Great Expectations, had a curious attraction for him), would pass round by Fort Pitt, and com- ing back by Frindsbury would bring himself by some cross fields again into the high road. Or, taking the other side, he would walk through the marshes to Gravesend, return by Chalk church, and stop always to have greeting with a comical old monk who for some in- comprehensible reason sits carved in stone, cross-legged with a jovial pot, over the porch of that sacred edifice. To another drearier church- yard, itself forming part of the marshes beyond the Medway, he often took friends to show them the dozen small tombstones of various sizes adapted to the respective ages of a dozen small children of one tamily which he made part of his story of Great Expectations, though, with the reserves always necessary in copying nature not to overstep her modesty by copying too closely, he makes the number that appalled little Pip not more than half the reality. About the whole of this Cooling churchyard, indeed, and the neighbouring castle ruins, there was a weird strangeness that -aade it one of his attractive walks in the late year or winter, when fro-.i Higham he could get to it across country over the stubble fields; and, for a shorter summer walk, he was not less fond of going round the village of Shorn and sitting on a hot afternoon in its pretty shaded churchyard. But, on the whole, though Maidstone had also much that attracted him to its neighbour- hood, the Cobhani neighbourhood was certainly that which he had greatest pleasure in; and he would have taken oftener than he did the walk through Cobham park and woods, which was the last he enjoyed before his life suddenly closed upon him, but that here he did not like his dogs to follow. Don now has his home with Lord Darnley, and Linda lies under one of the cedars at Gadshill. I ' I passing the 6o6 The Life of Charles Dickens s i 5 IV FIRST PAID READINGS 1858-9 Dickens gave his paid public readings successively, with not long intervals, at four several dates; in 185&-9, in 1861-3, in 1866-7, and in 1868-70; the first series under Mr. Arthur Smith's management, the second under Mr. Headland's, and the third and fourth, in America as well as before and after it, under that of Mr. George Dolby, who, excepting in America, acted for the Messrs. Chappell. The references in the present chapter are to the first series only. It began with sixteen nights at St. Martin's Hall, the first on 29 April, the last on 22 July, 1858; and there was afterwards a pro- vincial tour of eighty-seven readings, beginning at Clifton on 2 August, ending at Brighton on 13 November, and taking in Ireland and Scotland as well as the principal English cities: to which were added, in London, three Christmas readings, three in January, with two in the following month; and, in the provinces in the month of October, fourteen, beginning at Ipswich and Norwich, taking in Cam- bridge and Oxford, and closing with Birmingham and Cheltenham. The series had comprised altogether 125 readings when it ended on 27 October, 1859; and without the touches of character and interest afforded by his letters written while thus employed, the picture of the man would not be complete. Here was one day's work at the opening which will show something of the fatigue they in Ived even at their outset. ' ' On Friday we came from Shrewsbury to Chester; saw all right for the evening; and then went to Liverpool. Came back from Liverpool and read at Chester. Left Chester at 11 at night, after the reading, and went to London. Got to Tavistock House at 5 a.m. on Saturday, left it at a quarter past 10 that morning, and came down here" (Gadshill: 15 August, 1858). The "greatest personal affection and respect" had greeted him everywhere. Nothing could have been "more strongly marked or warmly expressed"; and the readings had "gone" quite wonderfully. What in this respect had most impressed him, at the outset of his adventures, was Exeter. "I think they were the finest audience I ever read to; I don't think I ever read in some respects so well; and Inever beheld anything like the personal affection which they poured out upon me at the end. I shall always look back upon it with pleasure." He often lost his voice in these early days, having still to acquire the art of husbanding it: and in the trial to recover it would .^"a.in v-'asts its power. ' ' I think I sang half the Irish melodies to myself as I walked about, to test it." mSm The Life of Charles Dickens 607 dth not long 1866-7, and agement, the n America as Dolby, who, he references the first on wards a pro- 31ifton on 2 ag in Ireland 1 which were inuary, with he month of king in Cam- Cheltenham. it ended on and interest >icture of the w something day we came ng; and then I at Chester. ; to London, quarter past gust, 1858). greeted him ■ marked or ivonderfuliy. )utset of his iience I ever and I'never poured out h pleasure." I acquire the [ as I walked An audience of two thousand three hundred people (the largest he had had) greeted him at Liverpool on his way to Dublin, and, besides the tickets sold, more than two hundred pounds in money was taken at the doors. This taxed his business staff a little. "They turned away hundreds, sold all the books, rolled on the ground of my room knee- deep in checks, and made a perfect pantomime of the whole thing." (20 August.) He had to repeat the reading thrice. It was the first time he had seen Ireland, and Dublin greatly sur- prised him by appearing to be so much larger and more populous than he had supposed. He found it to have altogether an unexpectedly thriving look, being pretty nigh as big, he first thought, as Paris; of which some places in it, such as the quays on the river, reminded him. Half the first day he was there, he took to explore it; walking till tired, and then hiring a car. "Power, dressed for the character of Tedy the Tiler, drove me: in a suit of patches, and with his hat unbrushed for twenty years. Wonderfully pleasant, light, intelligent, and careless." A letter to his eldest daughter makes humorous addition. "The man who drove our jaunting car yesterday hadn't a piece in his coat as big as a penny roll . . . but he was remarkably intelligent and agreeable, v/ith something to say about everything. When we got into the Phoenix Park, he looked round him as if it were his own, and said That's a Park sir, av ye plase!' I complimented it, and he said 'Gintlemen tills me as they iv bin, sir, over Europe and never see a Park aqualling ov it. Yander's the Vice-regal Lodge, sir; in thim two corners lives the two Sicretaries, wishing I was thim sir. There's air here, sir, av yer plase! There's scenery here sir! T jre's mountains thim sir!' " The number of common people he saw in his drive, also "riding about in cars as hard as they could split," brought to his re- collection a more distant scene, and but for the dresses he c.ould have thought himself on the Toledo at Naples. In respect of the number of his audience, and their reception of him, Dublin was one of his marked successes. He came to have some doulDt of their capacity of receiving the pathetic, but of their quick- ness as to the humorous there could be no question, any more than of their heartiness. He got on wonderfully well with the Dublin people and the Irish girls outdid the American in one particular. He wrote to his sister-in-law: "Every night since I have been in Ireland, they have beguiled my dresser out of the bouquet from my coat; and yester- day morning, as I had showered the leaves from my geranium in reading Little Domhey, they mounted the platform after I was gone, and picked them all up as a keepsake." The Boots at Morrison's ex- pressed the general feeling in a patriotic point of view, "He was waiting for me at the hotel door last night. 'Whaat sart of a hoose sur?' he asked me. 'Capital.' 'The Lard be praised fur the 'onor o' Dooblin!' " Within the hotel, on getting up next morning, he had a ■•••-••■£,•-«'• "• - -...-• ». ,., .. ,:?.„.., ..,_, i.-«^-^v/a\^vt, cs. xxi.(.xv boy of the ripe age of six, which he presented, in his letter to his sister-in-law, as a colloquy between Old England and Young Ireland r\'f i I 1 W i 1 608 The Life of Charles Dickens inadequately reported for want of the "imitation" it required for its full effect. "I am sitting on the sofa, writing, and find him sittmg beside me. "Old England. Holloa old chap. "Young Ireland. Hal— loo! . , ' . „ •Old England (in his delightful way). What a nice old fellow you are. I am very fond of little boys. "Young Ireland. Air yes? Ye'r right. "Old England. What do you learn, '>ld fellow? ^.,j. ^ '•■ Young Ireland (v - - \tent on Old England, and always childish except in his brogue. . x wureds of three siUibils-and wureds of two sillibils— and wureds of one sillibil. , . ,, , "Old England (cheerfully). Get out, you humbug! \ou learn only words of one syllable. ^u ^ i. • *.i "Young Ireland (laughs heartily). You ma> say that it is mostly wureds of one sillibil. "Old England. Can you write? "Young Ireland. Not yet. Things comes by deegrays. "Old England. Can you cipher? "Young Ireland (very quickly). Whaat's that? "Old England. Can you make figures? "Young Ireland. I can make a nought, which is not asy, being roond. . ^ c j "Old England. I say, old boy! Wasn't it you I saw on Sunday morn- ing in the hall, in a soldier's cap? You Icnow!— In a soldier's cap.^ •' Young Ireland (cogitating deeply). Was it a very good cap? "Old England. Yes. "Young Ireland. Did it fit ankommon? "Old England. Yes. ' ' Young Ireland. Dat was me ! ' The last night in Dublin was an extraordinary scene. \ou can hardly imagine it. All the way from the hotel to the Rotunda (a mile), I had to contend against the stream of people who were turned away When I got there, they had broken the glass in the pay-boxes, and \/ere offering £5 freely for a stall. Half of my platform had to be taken down and people heaped in among the ruins. You never saw such a scene " " Ladies stood all night with uheir chins against my platform, he wrote to his daughter. "Other ladies sat all night upon my steps. We turned away people enough to make immense houses for a week. But he would not return a^ .r his other Irish engagements. I have positively said No. The work is too hard. It is not like doing it m one easy room, and always the same room. With a different place every night and a different audience with its own peculiarity every night it is a tremendous strain ... I seem to be aiways either m a railway carriage or reading, or going to bed; and I get so knocked up •^ _. ° r _4._ j._ _-_,„_» Kf!" 'f fhq+- then T orr» +n T->pr1 at; a whenevei' l nave a miiiute tu remcmoci it, xhav tist-u . -,>- matter of course." . . ^, ,. » ^ Belfast he liked quite as much as Dublin m another way. A fine quired for its d him sitting Id fellow you ways childish —and wureds ou learn only t it is mostly ot asy, being Sunday morn- dier's cap? 3od cap? ne. "You can tunda(amile), 5 turned away, ay-boxes, and ad to be taken rer saw such a my platform," pon my steps. 3S for a week." lents. "I have ike doing it in different place :uliarity every a,ys either in a so knocked up "o to bed as 3 r way. "A fine The Life of Charles Dickens 609 place with a rough people; everything looking prospeious; the rail- way ride from Dublin quite amazing in the order, neatness, and clean- ness of all you see; every cottage looking as if it had been whitewashed the day before; and many with charming gardens, prettily kept with bright flowers." The success, too, was quite as great. "Enormous audiences. We turn away half the town. I think them a better audi- ence on the whole than Dublin; and the personal affection is some- thing overwhelming. I wish you and the dear girls" (he is writing to his sister-in-law) ' ' could have seen the people look at me in ic street; or heard them ask me, as I hurried to the hotel after the reading last night, to 'do me the honour to shake hands Misther Dickens and God bless you sir; not ounly for the light you've been to me this night, but for the light you've been in mee house sir (and God love your face!) this many a year!' " He had never seen men "go in to cry so undis- guisedly," as they did at the Belfast Dombey reading; "and as to the Boots and Mrs. Gamp it was just one roar with me and them. For they made me laugh so, that sometimes I could not compose my face to go on." His greatest trial in this way however was a little later at Harrogate— "the queerest place, with the strangest people in it, leading the oddest lives of dancing, newspaper-reading, and tables d'hote"— where he noticed, at the same reading, embodiments respectively of the tears and laughter to which he has moved his fellow-creatures so largely. "There was one gentleman at the Little Dombey yesterday morning" (he is still writing to his sister-in-law) 'who exhibited — or rather concealed — the profoundest grief. After crying a good deal without hiding it, he covered his face with both his hands and laid it down on the back of the seat before him, and really shook with emotion. He was not in mourning, but I supposed him to have lost some child in old time. . . . There was a remark- ably good fellow too, of thirty or so, who found something so very ludicrous in Toots that he could not compose himself at all, but laughed until he sat wiping his eyes with his handkerchief; and when- ever he felt Toots coming again, he began to laugh and wipe his eyes afresh; and when Toots came once more, he gave a kind of cry, as if it were too much for him. It was uncommonly droll, and made me laugh heartily." At Harrogate he read twice on one day (a Saturday), and had to engage a special engine to take him back that night to York, which, having reached at one o'clock in the morning, he had to leave, because of Sunday restrictions on travel, the same morning at half- past four, to enable him to fulfil a Monday's reading at Scarborough. Such fatigues became matters of course; but their effect, not noted at the time, was grave. Here again he was greatly touched by the personal greeting. "I was brought very near to what I sometimes dream may be my Fame," he wrote to me in October from York, "when a lady whose face I had never seen stopped me yesterday in the street, and said to me, Mr. Dickens, will you let me touch the hand, that has filled my house with many friends." ... 338 r f m m m 6io The Life of Charles Dickens m% 1 The reception that awaited him at Manchester had very special warmth m it. occasioned by an adverse tone taken in the comment of one of the Manchester daily papers on the letter which by a breach of confidence had been then recently printed. "My violated letter" Dickens always called it {ante, 600). "When I came to Manchester on Saturday I found seven hundred stalls taken! When I went into the room at night 2500 people had paid, and more were being turned away from every door. The welcome they gave me was astounding in Its affectionate recognition of the late trouble, and fairly for once unmanned me. I never saw such a sight or heard such a sound When they had thoroughly done it. they settled down t oenjoy themselves- and certainly did enjoy themselves most heartily to the last minute '' Nor. for the rest of his English tour, in any of the towns that remained had he reason to complain of any want of hearty greeting At Sheffield great crowds in excess of the places came. At Leeds the hall overflowed in half an hour. At Hull the vast concourse had to be addressed by Mr. Smith on the gallery stairs, and additional readings had to be given, day and night, "for the people out of town and for the people 1 'own." The net profit to himself, thus far, had been upwards of three hundred pounds a week; but this was nothing to the success in Scot- land, where his profit in a week, with all expenses paid, was five hundred pounds. The pleasure was enhanced, too, by the presence of his two daughters, who had joined him over the Border At first the look of Edinburgh was not promising. "We began with for us a poor room. . . . ^' it the effect of that reading (it was the Chimes) was immense; and on the next night, for Little Dombey, we had a full .00m. It is our greatest triumph everywhere. Next night [Poor Fraveller, Boots, and Gamp) we turned away hundreds upon hundreds of people; and last night, for the Carol, in spite of advertisements in the morning that the tickets were gone, the people had to be got in through such a crowd as rendered it a work of the utmost dififculty to keep an alley into the room. They were seated about me on the platform, put into the doorway of the waiting-room, squeezed into every conceivable place, and a multitude turned away once more I think I am better pleased with what was done in Edinburgh than with what has been done anywhere, almost. It was so completely taken by storm, and carried in spite of itself. Mary and Katev have been infinitely pleased and interested with Edinburgh. We are iust going to sit down to dinner and therefore I cut my missive short. Travelling, dinner, reading, and everything else, come crowding together into this strange life." ^ Then came Dundee: "An odd place," he wrote, "like Wappine, with high rugged hills behind it. We had the strangest journey here- bits of sea, and bits of railroad, alternately; which carried nay mind back to travelhng^in America. The room is an immense new one, t^.onging to ^oxu xviniiaird, and Lord Panmure, and some others d that sort. It looks something between the Crystal Palace and West- I very special the comment h by a breach olated letter" o Manchester n I went into being turned IS astounding airly for once sound. When y themselves; last minute," ^at remained, greeting. At -eeds the hall se had to be onal readings town and for irds of three xess in Scot- aid, was five the presence rder. At first ith, for us, a the Chimes) we had a full night {Poor >on hundreds "tisements in to be got in 3st difficulty it me on the jueezed into once more, iburgh than > completely Katey have We are just issive short, le crowding e Wapping, imey here — sd my mind se new one, ne others ot e and West- The Life of Charles Dickens 6ii mmster Hall (I can't imagine who wants it in this place), and has never been tried yet for opeaking in. Quite disinterestedly of course, I hope It will succeed." The people he thought, in respect of taste and mtelhgence, below any other of his Scotch audiences; but they woke up surprisingly, and the rest of his Caledonian tour was a succession of triumphs. "At Aberdeen we were crammed to the street twice in one day. At Perth (where I thought when I arrived, there literally could be nobody to come) the gentlefolk came posting in from thirty miles round, and the whole town came besides, ai>d filled an immense hall. They were as full of perception, fire, and enthusiasm as any people I have seen. At Glasgow, where I read three evenings a-d one morning, we took the prodigiously large sum of six hundred pounds! And this at the Manchester prices, which are lower than St. Martin's Hall. As to the effect— I wish you could have seen them after Lilian died in the Chimes, or when Scrooge woke in the Carol and talked to the boy outside the window. And at the end of Doml^y yesterday afternoon, in the cold light of day, they all got up, after a short pause, gentle and simple, and thundered and waved their hats with such astonishing heartiness and fondness that, for the first time in all my public career, they took me completely off my legs, and I saAv the whole eighteen hundred of them reel to one side as if a shock from without had shaken the hall. Notwithstanding which, I must confess to you, I am very anxious to get to the end of my readings, and to be at home again, and able to sit down and think in my own study. There has been only one thing quite without alloy. The dear girls have enjoyed themselves immensely, and their trip with me has been a great success." The subjects of his readings during this first circuit were the Carol, the Chimes, the Trial in Pickwick, the chapters containing Paul Dombey, Boots at the Holly Tree Inn, the Poor Traveller (Captain Doubledick), and Mrs. Gamp: to which he continued to restrict himself through the supplementary nights that closed in the autumn of 1859. Of these the most successful in their uniform effect upon his audiences were undoubtedly the Carol, the Pickwick scene, Mrs. Gamp, and the Dombey — the quickness, variety, and completeness of his assumption of character, having greatest scope in these. Here, I think, more than in the pathos or graver level passages, his strength lay; but this is entitled to no weight other than as an individual opinion, and his audiences gave him many reasons for thinking differently. . , , m m ,1 n\ il 6l2 The Life of Charles Dickens li "all the year round" and "uncommercial traveller" 1859-61 In the interval before the close of the first circuit of readings, painful personal disputes arising out of the occurrences of the previous year were settled by the discontinuance of Household Words, and the establishment in its place of All the Year Round. The disputes turned upon matters of feeling exclusively, and involved no charge on either side that would render any detailed reference here other than gravely out of place. The question into which the difference ultimately re- solved itself was that of the respective rights of the parties as pro- prietors of Household Words; and this, upon a bill filed in Chancery, was settled by a winding-up order, under which the property was sold.' It was bought by Dickens, who, even before the sale, exactly fulfilling a previous announcement of the proposed discontinuance of the existing periodical and establishment of another in its place, precisely similar but under a different title, had started All the Year Round. It was to be regretted perhaps that he should have thought it neces- sary to move at all, but he moved strictly within his rights. To the publishers first associated with his great success in litera- ture, Messrs. Chapman and Hall, he now returned for the issue of the remainder of his books; of which he always in future reserved the copyrights, making each the subject of such arrangement as for the time might seem to him desirable. In this he was met by no difficulty; and indeed it will be only proper to add, that, in any points affecting his relations with those concerned in the production of his books, though his resentments were easily and quickly roused, they were never very lasting. The only f^ir rule therefore was, in a memoir of his life, to confine the mention of such things to what was strictly necessary to explain its narrative. This accordingly has been done; and, in the several disagreements it has been necessary to advert to, I cannot charge myself with having in a single instance over- stepped the rule. Objection has been made to my revival of the early differences with Mr, Bentley. But silence respecting them was incom- patible with what absolutely required to be said, if the picture of Dickens in his most interesting time, at the outset of his career in letters, was not to be omitted altogether; and, suppressing every- thing of mere temper that gathered round the dispute, use was made of those letters only containing the young writer's urgent aooeal to t>e absolved, rightly o: wrongly, from engagements he had too j)recipitately entered into. Wrongly, some might say, because the The Life of Charles Dickens 613 kVELLER' ings, painful revious year •ds, and the putes turned rge on either ihan gravely timately re- rties as pro- n Chancery, rty was sold. :tly fulfilling ance of the ce, precisely /ear Round. ?ht it neces- hts. !ss in litera- issue of the eserved the it as for the 10 difficulty; its affecting I his books, , they were 1 a memoir was strictly been done; ^ to advert tance over- of the early was incom- 5 picture of is career in sing every- B was made t aooeal to ie had too lecause the law was undoubtedly on Mr. Bentley's side; but all subsequent reflection has confirmed the view I was led strongly to take at the time, that in the facts there had come to be involved what the law could not afford to overlook, and that the sale of brain-work can never be adjusted by agreement with the same exactness and certainty as that of ordinary goods and chattels. Quitting the subject once for all with this remark, it is not less incumbent on me to say that there was no stage of the dispute in which Mr. Bentley, holding as strongly the other view, might not think it to have sufficient justification; and certainly in later years there was no absence of friendly feeling on the part of Dickens to his old publisher. This already has been mentioned;and on the occasion of Hans Andersen's recent visit to Gadshill, Mr. Bentley was invited to meet the cele- brated Dane. Nor should I omit to say, that, in the year to whicn this narrative has now arrived, his prompt compliance with an inter- cession made to him for a common friend pleased Dickens greatly. At the opening of 1859, bent upon such a successor to Household Words as should carry on the associations connected with its name, Dickens was deep in search of a title to give expression to them. "My determination to settle the title irises out of my knowledge that I shall never be able to do anything ior the work until it has a fixed name; also out of my observation that the same odd feeling afiects everybody else." He had proposed to himself a title that, as in Household Words, might be capable of illustration by a line from Shakespeare; and alighting upon that wherein poor Henry the Sixth is fain to solace nis captivity by the fancy, that, like birds encaged he might soothe himself for loss of liberty "at last by notes of house- hold harmony," he for the time forgot that this might hardly be ac- cepted as a happy comment on the occurrences out of which the supposed necessity had arisen of replacing the old by a new house- hold friend. "Don't you think," he wrote on 24 January, "this is a good name and quotation? I have been quite delighted to get hold of it for our title. "Household Harmony. 'At last by notes of Household Harmony.' — Shakespeare.'* He was at first reluctant even to admit the objection when stated to him. "I am afraid we must not be too particular about the possi- bility of personal references and applications: otherwise it is manifest that I never can write another book. I could not invent a story of any sort, it is quite plain, incapable of being twisted into some such nonsensical shape. It would be wholly impossible to turn one through half a dozen chapters." Of course he yielded, nevertheless; and much consideration followed over sundry other titles submitted. Reviving none of those formerly rejected, here were a few of these now rejected in their turn. The Hearth. The Forge. The Crucible. The Anvil u>- 6i4 The Life of Chides Dickens I r OP THE Time. Charles Dickens's Own. Seasonable Leaves. Evergreen Leaves. Home. Home-Music. Change. Time and Tide. Twopence. English Bellc. Weekly Bells. The Rocket. Good Humour. Still the great want was the line adaptable from Shakespeare, which at last exultingly he sent on 28 January. "I am dining early, before reading, and write literally with my mouth full. But I have just hit upon a name that I think really an admirabkj one — especially with the quotation before it, in the place where our present H. W. quotation stands. ** * The story of our lives, from year to year.' — Shaksspeare, All the Yeak Round. A weekly journal conducts ^ by Charles Dickens." With the same resolution and en*. , other things necessary to the adventure were as promptly done. I have taken the new office," he wrote from Tavistock House on 21 February; "have got workmen in; have ordered the paper; settled with the printer; and am getting an immense system of advertising ready. Blow to be struck on the 1 2th of March. . . . Meantime I cannot please myself with the opening of my story" (the Tale of Two Cities, which All the Year Round was to start with), "and cannot in the least settle at it or take to it. ... I wish you would come and look at what I flatter myself is a rather ingenious account to which I have turned the Stanfield scenery here." He had placed the Lighthouse scene in a single frame; had divided the scene of the Frozen Deep into two subjects, a British man-of-war and an Arctic sea, which he had also framed; and the schoolroom that had been the theatre was now hung with sea-pieces by a great painter of the sea. To believe them to have been but the amusement of a few mornings was difficult indeed. Seen from the due distance there was nothing wanting to the most masterly and elaborate art. The first number oiAll the Year Round appeared on 30 April, and tne result of the first quarter's Recounts of the sale will tell every- thing that noeds to be said of a success that went on without inter- mission to the close. "A word before I go back to Gadshill," he wrote froni Tavistock House in July, "which I know you will be glad to receive. So well has All the Year Round gone that it was yesterday able to repay me, with five per cert, interest, all the money I advanced for its establishment (paper, print etc. all paid, down to the last number), and yet to leave a good ;^5oo balance at the banker's!" Beside the opening of his Tale of Two Cities its first number had con- tained another piece of his writing, the "Poor Man and his Beer"; as to which an interesting note has been sent me. The Rev. T. B. Lawes, of Rothamsted, St Albans, had been associated upon a sanitary commission with Mr. Henry Austin, Dickens's brother-in- law and counsellor in regard to all such matters in his own houses, n E Leaves. Time and E Rocket. •table from ary. "I am mouth full, admirable where our f#. I* • sary to the ew office," t workmen am getting uck on the I with the // the Year t it or take tter myself e Stanfield igle frame; s, a British d; and the I sea-pieces en but the 1 from the isterly and April, and tell every- tiout inter- " he wrote be glad to yesterday money I own to the banker's!" sr had con- his Beer"; lev. T. B. d upon a )rother-in- ra houses, The Life of Charles Dickens 615 or in the houses of the poor; and this connection led "o Dickens's knowledge of a club that Mr. Lawcs had established at Rolhumated, which he became eager to recommend as an example } other country neighbourhoods. The club had been set on foot to enabie the agri- cultural labourers of the p. i sh to have their beer and pipes inde- pendent e* the public-house; and the description of it, says Mr. Lawes, "was the occupation of a drive between this place (Rotham- sted) and L jndon, twenty-five miles, Mr Dickens refusing the offer of a bed, and saying that he could arrange his ideas on the jouriiey. In the course of our conversation I mentioned that the labourers were very jealcus of the small tradesmen, blacksmiths and others, holding allotm t-gardens; but that the latter did so indirectly by paying higher i its to the labourers for a share. This circumstance is not forgotten ..i the verses on the Blacksmith in the same number, composed by Mr. Dickens and repeated to me while he was walking about, and which close the mention of his gains with allusion to A share (concealed) in the poor man's field, Which adds to the poor man's store." It is pleasant to be able to add that the club was still flourishing when I received Mr. Lawes's letter, on 18 December, 1871. The periodical thus established was in all respects, save one, so exactly the counterpart of what it replaced, mat a mention of this point of difference is the only description of it called for. Besides his own three- volume stories of the Tale of Two Cities and Great Expecta- tions, Dickens admitted into it other stories of the same length by writsrs of character and name, of which the authorship was avowed. It published tales of varied merit and success by Plr. Edmund Yates; Mr. Percy Fitzgerald, and Mr. Charles Lever. Mr. Wilkie Co' 'ns contributed to it his Woman in White, No Name, and Moonstone, the first of which had -x pre-eminent success; Mr. Reade his Hard Cash- and Lord Lytton his Strange Story. Conferring about the lati^ Dickens passed a week at Knebworth, accompanied by his daughter and sister-in-law, in the summer of 1861, as soon as he had closed Great Expectations; and there met Mr. Arthur Helps, with whom and Lord Orford he visited the so-called "Hermit" near Stevenage, whom he described as Mr. Mopes in Tom Tiddler's Ground. With his great brotusr-artist he thoroughly enjoyed himself, as he invariably did; ana reported him as "in better health and spirits than I have seen him in, in all these years — a little weird occasionally regarding magic and spirits, but always fair and frank under opposition. "le was brilliantly talkative, anecdotical, and droll; he looked young and well; laughed heartily; and f'njoyed with great zest some games we played. In his artist-character and talk, he was full of interest and matter, saying the subtlest and finest things — but that he never fails in. I enjoyed myself immensely, as we all did." In All the Year Round, as in its predecessor, the tales for Christmas rjl^' H t. i 'Il !:«f !*«' %\ i: .1- If tf'i *^,' ■ The Life of Charles Dickens 6i6 wf^^'inTn- V°''*'''"^^u^?* "^^^^ ^ surprisingly increased popu- lanty. and Dickens never had such sale for any of his writings as for his Christmas pieces m the latter periodical. It had reached before he died, to nearly three hundred thousand. The first was called the Haunted House, ^nd had a small mention of a true occurrence in his boyhood which IS not included in the bitter record on a former pa^e I was taken home, and there was debt at home as well as death and we had a sale there My own little bed was so superciliously looked upon by a power unknown to me hazily called The Trade, that a brass coal-scuttle, a roasting-jack, and a bird-cage were obliged to be nut into It to make a lot of it. and then it went for a song. So^I heard men tronea and I wondered what song, and thought what a dismal ?ong The Uncommercial Traveller papers, his two serial stories, and his Christmas tales were all the contributions of any importance made by Dickens to ^// the Year Round; but he reprinted in?t° on theTom- pletion of his first story, a short tale called Hunted DownZritten^r a newspaper m America called the New York Ledger VI SECOND SERIES OF READINGS 186I-3 Ai^ue end of the first year of residence at Gadshill it was the remark of Dickens that nothing had gratified him so much as the confidence with which his poorer neighbours treated him. He had tested gener- ally their worth and good conduct, and they had been encourafedTn any illness or trouble to resort to him for help. There was pleasait indication of the feeling thus awakened, wh^n. in the summer c i860, his younger daughter Kate was married to Charles Alston Collins, brother of the novelist, and younger son of the painter and academician, who might have found, if spared to witness that summer morning scene, subjects not unworthy of his delightful pencil in many a rustic group near Gadshill. All the villagers had turned out I th«TftI^ oSlr^w ' T^f^ *^^ carriages could hardly get to and from the little church for the succession o£ triumphal arches they had to S^S^f'f?!? K, 7^^?"'*\''''^''P^^*^^ ^y ^i"^' and when the /m dejote of the blacksmith in the lane, whose enthusiasm had smuggled ?.t,?^^ T°f «^f" ^,f "°^ ^^^ ?^" ^'''^^' exploded upon him at the ovaSI;^ ^""^ ^^ "'^'' "^^^ ^^^'* ^° *^^e^ aback at an The first portion of tiiis second series was planned by Mr. Arthur ■WT,!1 The Life of Charles Dickens 617 Smith, but he only superintended the six readings in London which opened it. These were the first at St. James's Hall (St. Martin's Hall having been burnt since the last readings there), and were given in March and April 1861. "We are all well here and flourishing," he wrote to me from Gadshill on 28 April. "On the iSth I finished the readings as I purposed. We had between seventy and eighty pounds in the stalls, which, at four shillings apiece, is something quite unpre- cedented in these times. . . . The result of the six was, that, after pay- ing a large staff of men and all other charges, and Arthur Smith's ten per cent, on the receipts, and replacing everything destroyed in the fire at St. Martin's Hall (including all our tickets, country baggage, check-boxes, books, and a quantity of gas-fittings and what not), 1 got upwards of ;^5oo. A very great result. We certainly might ha'v gone on through the season, but I am heartily glad to be concentrated on my story." It had been part of his plan that the provincial readings should not begin until a certain interval after the close of his story of Great Expectations. They were delayed accordingly until 28 October, from which date, when they opened at Norwich, they went on with the Christmas intervals to be presently named to 30 January, 1862, when they closed at Chester. Kept within England and Scotland, they took in the border town of Berwick, and, besides the Scotch cities, com- prised the contrasts and varieties of Norwich and Lancaster, Bury St. Edmunds and Cheltenham. Carlisle and Hastings, Plymouth and Birmingham, Canterbury and Torcjuay, Preston and Ipswich, Man- chester and Brighton, Colchester and Dover, Newcastle and Chester. They were followed by ten readings at the St. James's Hall, between 13 March and 27 June, 1862; and by four at Paris in January 1863, given at the. Embassy in aid of the British Charitable Fund. The second series had thus in the number of the readings nearly equalled the first, when it closed at London in June 1863 with thirteen readings in the Hanover Square Rooms; and it is exclusively the subject of such illustrations or references as this chapter will supply. On Great Expectations closing in June 1861, Bulwer Lytton, at Dickens's earnest wish, took his place in All the Year Round with the Strange Story; and he then indulged himself in idleness for a little while. "The subsidence of those distressing pains in my face the moment I had done my work, made me resolve to do nothing in that way for some time if I could help it." But his "doing nothing" was seldom more than a figure of speech, and what it meant in this case was soon told. "Every day for two or three hours, I practise my new readings, and (except in my office work) do nothing else. With great pains I have made a continuous narrative out of Copperfield, that I think will reward the exertion it is likely to cost me. Unless I am much mistaken, it will t very valuable in London. I have also done Nicholas NicP^eby at the Yorkshire school, and hope I have got something droll out of Squeeis, John Browdie, & Co. Also, the Bastille prisoner from the Tale of Two Cities. Also, the Dwarf from 338* 'kit' lii 'Si m % ■■si ! I US'-' 6i8 The Life of Charles Dickens fr one of our Christmas numbers." Only the first two were added to the list for the present circuit. . . . His mention of Newcastle, which he had taken on his way to Edinburgh, reading two nights there, should be given. "At Newcastle, against the very heavy expenses, I made more than a hundred guineas profit. A finer audience there is not in England, and I suppose them to be a specially earnest people; for, while they can laugh till they shake the roof, they have a very unusual sympathy with what is pathetic or passionate. An extraordinary thing occurred on the second night. The room was tremendously crowded and my gas-apparatus fell down. There was a terrible wave among the people for an instant, and God knows what destruction of life a nsh to the stairs would have caused. Fortunately a lady in the froii- of the stalls ran out towards me, exactly in a place where I knew that the whole hall could see her. So I addressed her, laughing, and half-asked and half-ordered her to sit down again; and, in a moment, it was all over. But the men in attend- ance had such a fearful sense of what might have happened (besides the real danger of Fire) that they positi- jly shook the boards I stood on, with their trembling, when they came up to put things right. I am proud to record that the gasman's sentiment, as delivered afterwards, was, 'The more you want of the master, the more you'll find in him.' With which complimentary homage, and with the wind blowing so that I can hardly hear myself write, I conclude." . . . Two brief extracts from letters will sufficiently describe the London readings. "The money returns have been quite astounding. Think of ;^ 190 a night! The effect of Copperfield exceeds all the expec- tations which its success in the country led me to form. It seems to take people entirely by surprise. If this is not new to you, I have not a word of news. The rain that raineth every day seems to have washed news away or got it under water." That was in April. In June he wrote: "I finished my readings on Friday night to an enormous hall — nearly ;^2oo. The success has been throughout complete. It seems almost suicidal to leave off with the town so full, but I don't like to depart from my public pledge. A man from Australia is in London ready to pay ;^io,ooo for eight months there. If " It was an If that troubled him for some time, and led to agitating discussion. . . . It closed at once when he clearly saw that to take any of his family with him, and make satisfactory arrangements for the rest during such an absence, would be in^possible. By this time also he began to find his way to the new story, and better hopes and spirits had returned. . . . jj^g^ The Life of Charles Dickens 619 is way to ■Newcastle, ed guineas se them to ;hey shake s pathetic and night, fell down. , and God ve caused, ^^ards me, see her. So . her to sit in attend- d (besides boards I )ut things ; delivered lore you'll I the wind e " cribe the itounding. the expec- ; seems to '. have not VQ. washed 1 June he ous hall — It seems a't like to n London was an If ssion. . . . [lis family :st during began to nrits had VII THIRD SERIES OF READINGS 1864-7 The sudden death of Thackeray on the Christmas eve of 1863 was a painful shock to Dickens. It would not become me to speak, when he has himself spoken, of his relations with so great a writer and so old a friend. "I saw him first, nearly twenty-eight years ago, when he proposed to become the illustrator of my earliest book. I saw him last, shortly before Christmas, at the Athenaeum Club, when he told me that he had been in bed three days . . . and that he had it in his mind to try a new remedy which he laughingly described. He was cheerful, and looked very bright. In the night of that day week, he died. The long interval between these two periods is marked in my remembrance of him by many occasions when he was extremely humorous, when he was irresistibly extravagant, when he was softened and serious, when he was charming with children No one can be surer than I, of the greatness and goodness of his heart. ... In no place should I take it upon myself at this time to discourse of his books, of his refined know- ledge of character, of his subtle acquaintance with the weaknesses of human nature, of his delightful playfulness as an essayist, of his quaint and touching ballads, of his mastery over the English language. . . . But before me lies all that he had written of his latest story . . . and the pain I have felt in perusing it has not been deeper than the conviction that he was in the healthiest vigour of his powers when he worked on this last labour. . . . The last words he corrected in print were ' And my heart throbbed with an exquisite bliss.' God grant that on that Christmas Eve when he laid ais head back on his pillow and threw up his arms as he had been wont to do when very weary, some consciousness of duty done, and of Christian hope throughout life humbly cherished, may have caused his own heart so to throb, when he passed away to his Redeemer's rest. He was found peacefully lying as above described, composed, undisturbed, and to all appearance asleep." * Other griefs were with Dickens at this time, and close upon them came the too certain evidence that his own health was yielding to the overstrain which had been placed upon it by the occurrences and anxieties of the few preceding years. His mother, whose infirm health had been tending for more than two years to the close, died in September 1863; and on his own birthday in the following February * From the Cornhill Magazine for February 1864. 620 The Life of Charles Dickens he had tidmgs of the death of his second son Walter, on the last dav of the old year, in the officers' hospital at Calcutta; to which he had been sent up invalided from his station, on his way home. He was a lieutenant m the 26th Native Infantry regiment, and had been doing duty with the 42 nd Highlanders ^ The old year ended and the new one opened sadly enough The death of Leech in November affected Dickens very much, and a severe attack of illness in February put a broad mark between his past life and what remained to him of the future. The lameness now began m his left foot which never afterwards wholly left him which was attended by great suffering, and which baffled experienced physicians. He had persisted in his ordinary exercise during heavy snowstorms, and to the last he had the fancy that the illness was merely local. But that this was an error is now certam; and it is more than probable that if the nervouc danger and disturbance it implied had been correctly appreciated at the time, its warning might have been of priceless value to Dickens. Unhappily he never thought of husbandmg his strength except for the purpose of making fresh demands upon it, and it was for this he took a brief holiday in France during the summer. "Before I went away," he wrote to his daughter •I had certainly worked myself into a damagedstate. But the moment I got away, I began, thank God, to get well. I hope to profit by this experience, and to make future dashes from my desk before I want them." At his return he was in the terrible railway accident at Staple- hurst, on a day which proved aften^-ards more fatal to him; and it was with shaken nerves but unsubdued energy he resumed the labour to be presently described. He was beset by nervous apprehensions which the accident had caused to himself, not lessened by his generous anxiety to assuage the severer sufferings inflicted by it on others- his foot also troubled him more or less throughout the autumn; and that he should nevertheless have determined, on the close of his book to undertake a series of readings involving greater strain and fatigue than any hitherto, was a startling circumstance. He had perhaps become conscious, without owning it even to himself, that for exer- tion of this kind the time left hijn was short; but, whatever pressed him on, his task of the next three years, self-imposed, was to make the most money in the shortest time without any regard to the physical labour to be undergone. The very letter announcing his new engage- ment shows how entirely unfit he was to enter upon it. "For some time," he wrote at the end of February 1866 "I have been very unwell. F. B. wrote me word that with such a pulse as I de- scribed, an examination of the heart was absolutely necessary. 'Want of muscular power in the heart,' B. said. 'Only remarkable irritability of the heart,' said Doctor Brinton of Brook Street, who had been called into consultation. I was not disconcerted; for I knew well beforehand that the effect could not possibly be without the one cause at the bottom of it, of some degeneration of some function of the heart. Of course I am not so foolish as to suppose that all my work The Life of Charles Dickens 621 can have been achieved without some penalty, and I have noticed for some time a decided change in my buoyancy and hopefulness — in other words, in my usual 'tone.' But tonics have already brought me round. So I have accepted an offer, from Chappells of Bond Street, of ;^5o a night for thirty nights to read 'in England, Ireland, Scotland, or Pari3'; they undertaking all the business, paying all personal expenses, travelling and otherwise, of myself, John" (his office servant) "and my gasman; and making what they can of it. . . ." The success ever5rwhere went far beyond even the former successes. A single night at Manchester, when eight hundred stalls were let, two thousand five hundred and sixty-five people admitted, and the receipts amounted to more than three hundred pounds, was followed in nearly the same proportion by all the greater towns; and on 20 April the out- lay for the entire venture was paid, leaving all that remained, to the middle of the month of June, sheer profit. . . . One memorable evening he had passed at my house in the interval, when he saw Mrs. Carlyle for the last time. Her sudden death followed shortly after, and near the close of April he had thus written to me from Liverpool. "It was a terrible shock to me, and poor dear Carlyle has been in my mind ever since. How often I have thought of the un- finished novel. No one now to finish it. None of the writing women come near her at all." This was an allusion to what had passed at their meeting. It was on 2 April, the day when Mr. Carlyle had delivered his inaugural address as Lord Rector of Edinburgh University, and a couple of ardent words from Professor Tyndall had told her of the triumph just before dinner. She came to us flourishing the telegram in her hand, and the radiance of her enjoyment of it was upon her all the night. Among other things she gave Dickens the subject for a novel, from what she had herself observed at the outside of a house in her street; of which the various incidents were drawn from the condition of its blinds and curtains, the costumes visible at its windows, the cabs at its door, its visitors admitted or rejected, its articles of furniture delivered or carried away; and the subtle serious humour of it all, the truth in trifling bits of character, and the gradual progress into a half-romantic interest, had enchanted the skilled novelist. She was well into the second volume of her small romance before she left, being as far as her observation then had taken her; but in a few days exciting incidents were expected, the denouement could not be far off, and Dickens was to have it when they met again. Yet it was to something far other than this amusing little fancy his thoughts had carried him, when he wrote of no one being capable to finish what she might have begun. In greater things this was still more true. None could doubt it who had come within the fascinating influence of that sweet and noble nature. With some of the highest gifts of intellect, and the charm of a most varied knowledge of books and things, there was something " beyond, beyond=" No one who knew Mrs. Carlyle could replace her loss when she had passed away. The same letter which told of his uninterrupted success to the last. 622 The Life of Charles Dickens II? told me also that he had a heavy cold upon him, and was "very tired and depressed." Some weeks before the first batch of readings closed, Messrs. Chappell had already tempted him with an offer for fifty more nights to begin at Christmas, for which he meant, as he then said, to ask them seventy pounds a night. ' ' It would be unreason- able to ask anything now on the ground of the extent of the late success, but I am bound to look to myself for the future. The Chappells are speculators, though of the worthiest and most honour- able kind. They make some bad speculations, and have made a very good one in this case, and will set this against those. I told them when we agreed: 'I offer these thirty readings to you at fifty pounds a night, because I know perfectly well beforehand that no one in your business has the least idea of their real worth, and I wish to prove It/ The sum taken is £^720:' The result of the fresh negotiation though not completed until the beginning of August, may be at once described. "Chappell instantly accepts my proposal of forty nights at sixty pounds a night, and every conceivable and inconceivable ex- pense paid. To make an even sum, I have made it forty- two nights for ;^25oo. So I shall now try to discover a Christmas number [he means the subject for one], and shall, please Heaven, be quit of the whole series of readings so as to get to work on a new story for our proposed new series of All the Year Round early in the spring The readings begin probably with the New Year." These were fair designs, but the fairest are the sport of circumstance, and though the subject for Christmas was found, the new series of All the Year Round never had a new story from its founder. With whatever consequence to him- self the strong tide of the readings was to sweep on to its full. The American war had ceased, and the first renewed offers from the States had been made and rejected. Hovering over all, too, were other sterner dispositions. "I think," he wrote in September, "there is some strange influence in the atmosphere. Twice last week I was seized in a most distressing manner— apparently in the heart; but, I am persuaded, only in the nervous system. ' ' In the midst of his ovations such checks had not been wanting. "The police reported officially," he wrote to his daughter from Liverpool on 14 April, "that three thousand people were turned away from the hall last night. . . , Except that I can not sleep, I really think myself in very much better training than I had anticipated. A dozen oysters and a little champagne between the parts every night, seem to constitute the best restorative I have ever yet tried." "Such a prodigious demonstration last night at Manchester." he wrote to the same correspondent twelve days later, "that I was obliged (contrary to my principle in such cases) to go back. I am very tired to-day; for it v/ould be of itself ver>' hard work in that immense place, if there were not to be added eighty miles of railway and late hours to boot." "It has been very heav^ work," he wrote to his sister-in- law on II May from Clifton, "getting up at 6.30 each mornine after a heavy night, and I am not at all well to-day. We had a tremendous hall at B a most r instead o^ Went ba< if they lii another '. severe a ] to do an] no better as it was was also ( felt most Everyt nothing < tion, or t deen {16 There w£ ourselves and wash later he ^ got a lov( verse of \ gloomy a we are gc The last 24 May, i America. The lei the follow seemed t evening" You hav( as their r( I have lee ing after everythir ous; corr possessioi ation. Fir I learnt 1 with exac . . ." Six excellenci cile me t( him. "It subject. I The Life of Charles Dickens 623 hall at Birmingham last night, ;^23o odd, 2,100 people; and I made a most ridiculous mistake. Had Nickleby on my list to finish with, instead of Trial. Read Nickleby with great go, and the people remained. Went back again at 10 o'clock, and explained the accident: but said if they liked I would give them the Trial. They d^d like; — and 1 had another half-hour of it, in that enormous place. ... I have so severe a pain in the ball of my left eye that it makes it hard for me to do anything after 100 miles' shaking since breakfast. My cold is no better, nor my hand either." It was his left eye, it will be noted, as it was his left foot and hand; the irritability or faintness of heart was also of course on the left side; and it was on the same left side he felt most of the effect of the railway accident. Everything was done to make easier the labour of travel, but nothing could materially abate either the absolute physical exhaus- tion, or the nervous strain. "We arrived here," he wrote from Aber- deen {16 May), "safe and sound between 3 and 4 this morning. There was a compartment for the men, and a charming room for ourselves furnished with sofas r id easy chairs. We had also a pantry and washing-stand. This can .age is to go about with us." Two days later he wrote from Glasgow. "We halted at Perth yesterday, and got a lovely walk there. Until then I had been in a condition the re- verse of flourishing; half strangled with my cold, and dyspeptically gloomy and dull; but, as I feel much more like myself this morning, we are going to get some fresh air aboard a steamer on the Clyde." The last letter during his country travel was from Portsmouth on 24 May, and contained these words: "You need have no fear about America." The letter which told me of the close of his English readings [in the following year] had in it no word of the further enterprise, yet it seemed to be in some sort a preparation for it. "Last Monday evening" (14 May) "I finished the 50 readings with great success. You have no idea how I have worked at them. Finding it necessary, as their reputation widened, that they should be better than at first, I have learnt them all, so as to have no mechanical drawback in look- ing after the words. I have tested all the serious passion in them by everything I know; made the humorous points much more humor- ous; corrected my utterance of certain words; cultivated a self- possession not to be disturbed; and made myself master of the situ- ation. Finishing with Domhey (which I had not read for a long time), I learnt that, like the rest; and did it to myself, often twice a day, with exactly the same pains as at night, over and over and over again. ..." Six days later brought his reply to a remark, that no degree of excellence to which he might have brought his readings could recon- cile me to what there was little doubt would soon be pressed upon him. "It is curious" (20 Mav^ "that vou should touch the American subject, because I must confess that my mind is in a most disturbed 624 The Life of Charles Dickens state about it. That the people there have set themselves on having the readings, there is no question. Every mail brings me proposals, and the number of Americans at St. James's Hall has been surprising! A certain Mr. Grau, who took Ristori out, and is highly responsible, wrote to me by the last mail (for the second time) saying that if I would give him a word of encouragement he would come over immediately and arrange on the boldest terms for any number I chose, and would deposit a large sum of money at Coutts's. Mr. Fields writes to me on behalf of a committee of private gentlemen at Boston who wished for the credit of getting me out. who desired to hear the readings and did not want profit, and would put down as a guarantee /io,ooo--also to be banked here. Every American specu- lator who comes to London repairs straight to Dolby, with similar proposals. And, thus excited, Chappells, the moment this last series was over, proposed to treat for America!" Upon the mere question of these various offers he had little difficulty in making up his mind. If he went at all, he would go on his own account, making no com- pact with anyone. Whether he should go at all, was what he had to determine. One thing with his usual sagacity he saw clearly enough. He must make up his mind quickly. "The Residential election would be in the autumn of next yeai , They are a people whom a fancy does not hold long. They are bent upon my reading there, and they believe (on no foundation whatever) that I am going to read there. If I ever go, the time would be when the Christmas number goes to press " Then there came that which should have availed to dissuade, far more than any of the arguments which continued to express my objection to the enterprise. "I am laid up," he wrote on 6 August, "with another attack in my foot, and was on the sofa all last night in tortures. I cannot bear to have the fomentations taken off for a moment. I was so ill with it on Sunday, and it looked so fierce, that I came up to Henry Thompson. He has gone into the case heartily, and says that there is no doubt the complaint originates in the action of the shoe, in walking, on an enlargement in the nature of a bunion. Erysipelas has supervened upon the injury; and the object is to avoid a gathering, and to stay the erysipelas where it is. Meantime I am on my back and chafing. ... I didn't improve my foot by going down to Liverpool to see Dolby off, but I have little doubt of its yielding to treatment, and repose." A few days later he was chafing still; the accomplished surgeon he consulted having dropped other hints that somewhat troubled him. "I could not walk a quarter of a mile to-night for ;^5oo. I make out so many reasons against supposing it to be gouty that I really do not think it is." So momentous in my judgment were the consequences of the American journey to him that it seemed right to preface thus much of the inducements and temptations that led to it. My own part in the discussion was that of steady dissuasion throughout: though this might perhaps have been less persistent if I could have reconciled myself to readings \ had by tl enterprise The rer there was Lord Lyt in having proposals, irprising. ponsible, that if I •me over lumber I :ts's. Mr. ;lemen at esired to own as a m specu- 1 similar ist series question lis mind, no com- e had to The Life of Charles Dickens 625 m^' myself to the belief, which I never at any time did, that public readings were a worthy employment for a mau of his genius. But it had by this time become clear to me that nothing could stay the enterprise. . . . The remaining time was given to preparations; on 2 November there was a Farewell Banquet in the Freemasons' Hall over which Lord Lytton presided; and on the 9th Dickens sailed for Boston. .ia He must lid be in does not T believe If I ever ess. . . ," lade, far iress my August, LSt night ofiE for a e, that I heartily, le action bunion, to avoid ne I am >y going t)t of its i chafing ;d other rter of a ipposing } of the is much part in usfh this conciled BOOK NINTH AMERICA REVISITED 1867-8. JET. 55-6 T. November and December, 1867, II. January to April, 1868. 627 ik B I ( It is the incidents that only letters wi On tht where h(< first lette all to tha saleable, for twelv r ench tl *ur calcu not been the old gi his settin greeting ^ before, a himself li He hac profit of seven do] omen in severity, changes, work is ( everythir invitatioi New Yor! more tha these spe( profits, w them — n( move ! — c 300 tirke these wor sale of th a Wednea !* AMERICA: NOVEMBER AND DECEMBER 1867 It is the intention of this and the following chapter to narrate the incidents of the visit to America m Dickens's own language, and in that only. They will consist almost exclusively of extracts from his letters written home, to members of hi.« family and to myself. On the night of Tuesday, 19 Novemb«r, he arrived at Boston, where h«< took up his residence at the Par er House Kotel; and his first letter (21st) stated that the tickets 1 r the first four readings, all to that time issued, had been sold immedia ely on their becoming saleable. "A^ .nmense train of people waited in the freezing street for twelve houri. and passed into the office in their turns, as at a French theairt . The receipts alreadv taken for these nights exceed our calculation hy more than ;^25o.' Up to the last moment, he had not been able to clear off wholly a shade of 1 isgiving that some of the old grudges might make themselves felt; but hnin the instant of his setting foot in Boston not a vestige of such iear remained. The greeting was to the full as extraordinary as that of twenty -five years before, and was given now, as then, to the man who had made himself Ihe most popular writer in th country. ... He had written, the day before he ieit, that he was making a 'ear profit of thirteen hund ed pounds English a week, even allowing seven dollars to the pound; bu: words were added having no good omen in them, that the weather was taking a turn of even i .nusuki! severity, and that he found the clii. te, in the suddenne .. if its changes, "and the wide leaps they take," excessively tryin/j. "The work is of course rather trying too; but the sound position that everything must be subservient to it enables me to keep aiocf from invitations. To-morrow," ran the close of the letrer, "we rrove to New York. We cannot beat the speculators in our tickets. W^ ^jell no ' more than six to any one person for the course of four readings; but these speculators, who sell at greatly increased prices and make large profits, will employ any number of men to buy. One of the chief of them — now living in this house, in order that he may move as we move ! — can put on 50 people in any place we go to; and thus he gets 300 tickets into his own hands." Almost while Dickens was writing these words an eyewitness was describing to a Philadelphia petper the sale of the New York tickets = Tho pav-place was to open at nine on a Wednesday morning, and at midnight of Tuesday a long line of s^cc- 629 k m I l?j 630 The Life of Charles Dickens ulators were assembled in queue; at two in the morning a few honest buyers had begun to arrive; at five there were, of ah classes, two lines of not less than 800 each; at eight there were at least 5000 per- sons in the two lines; at nine each line was more than three-quarters of a mile in length, and neither became sensibly shorter during the whole morning. "The tickets for the course were all sold before noon. Members of families relieved each other in the queues; waiters flew across the streets and squares from the neighbouring restaurant, to serve parties who were taking their breakfast in the open December air; while excited men offered five and ten dollars for the mere per- mission to exchange places with other persons standing nearer the head of the line !" The effect of the reading in New ^^ork corresponded with this marvellous preparation, and Dickeiio characterised his audience as an unexpected support to him; in its appreciation quick and un- failing, and highly demonstrative in its satisfactions. On 11 Decem- ber he wrote to his daughter: ". . . We have not yet had in it less than ;^43o per night, alio ving for the depreciated currency ! I send i:3ooo to England by this packet. From all parts of the States, applications and offers continually come in. We go to Boston next Saturday for two more readings, and come back here on Christmas Day for four more. I am not vet bound to go elsewhere, except three times, each time for two nights, to Philadelphia; thinking it wisest to keep free for the largest places. I have had an action brought against me by a man who considered himself injured (and really may have been) in the matter of his tickets. Personal service bein^ necessary, I was politely waited on by a marshal for that purpose^ whom I received with the greatest courtesy, apparently very much to his amazement. The action was handsomely withdrawn next day, and the plaintiff paid his own costs. ..." The time had now come when the course his readings were to take independently of the two leading cities must be settled, and the general tour made out. His agents' original plan was that they should be m New York every week. "But I say No. By the loth of January I shall have read to 35,000 people in that city alone. Put the readings out of the reach of all the peopte behind them, for the time. It is that one of the popular peculiarities which I most particularly notice, that they must not have a thing too easily. Nothing in the country lasts long; and i, thing is prized the more, the less easy it is made. Reflecting therefore that I shall want to close, in April, with farewell readmgs here and in New York, I am convinced that the crush and pressure upon these necessary to their adequate success is only to be got by absence; and that the best thing I can do is not to give either city as much read' ig as it wants now, but to be independent of both while both are most enthusiastic. ..." An incident at Boston should have mention before he resumes his readings in New York. In the interval since he was first in America, the Harvard professor of chemistry, Dr. Webster, whom he hud at II The Life of Charles Dickens 631 that visit met among the honoured men who held chairs in their Cambridge University, had been hanged for the murder, committed in his laboratory in the college, of a friend who had lent him money, portions of whose body lay concealed under the lid of the lecture- room table where the murderer continued to meet his students. "Being in Cambridge," Dickens wrote to Lord Lytton, "I thought I would go over the Medical School, and see the exact localities where Professor Webster did that amazing murder, and worked so hard to rid himself of the body of the murdered man. (I find there is of course no rational doubt that the Professor was always a secretly cruel man.) They were horribly grim, Brivate, cold, ctnd quiet; the identical furnace smelling fearfully (sc ne anatomical broth in it I suppose) as if the body were still there; jars of pieces of sour mortality standing about, like the forty robbers in A li Baba after being scalded to death; and bodies near ns ready to be carried in to next morning's lecture. At the house where I afterwards dined I heard an amazing and fear- ful story; told by one who had been at a dinner-party of ten or a dozen, at Webster's, less than a year before the murder. They began rather uncomfortably, in consequence of one of the guests (the victim of an instinctive antipathy) starting up with the sweat pouring dovvrn his face, and crying out, 'O Heaven! There's a cat somewhere in the room!' The (at was found and ejected, but they didn't get on very well. Left with their wine, they were getting on a little better; when Webster suddenly told the servants to turn the gas off and bring in that bowl of burning minerals which he had prepared, in order that the company might see how ghastly they looked by its weird light. All this was done, and every man was looking, horror-stricken, at his neighbour; when Webster was seen bending over the bowl with a rope round his neck, holding up the end of the rope, with his head on one side and iiis tongue lolled out, to represent a hanged man!" Dickens read at Boston on 23 and 24 December, and on Christmas Day t-avelled back to New York where he was to read on the 26th. The last words written before he left were of illness. "The low action of the heart, or whatever it is, has inconvenienced me greatly this last week. On Monday night, after the reading, I was laid upon a bed, in a very faint and shady state; and on the Tuesday I did not get up till the afternoon," But what in reality was less grave took outwardly the form of a greater distress; and the effects of the cold which had struck him in travelling to Boston, as yet rot known to his English friends, appear most to have alarmed those about him. x depart from my rule in this narrative, otherwise strictly observed, in singling out one of those friends for mention by name; but a business connection with the readings, as we" ■"* untiring offices of personal kindness and sym- pathy, threw Mr. Fields in+^'^ closer relations with Dickens from arrival to departure, than any other person had; and his description .i*-t-^A T3^„i-,», „. ^t ■L.'u~ i:x: _x v.^-ij-u :-. ,..u;„v. "Pvc _ went through the rest of the labour he had undertaken, will be a sad I "■.. ^'n I WP^' 632 The Life of Charles Dickens :i I1 1. though fit prelude to what the following chapter has to tell. "He went from Boston to New York carrying with him a severe catarrh con- tracted in our climate. He was quite ill from the effects of the disease; but he fought courageously against them. . . . His spirit was wonder- ful, and, although he lost all appetite and could partake of very little food, he was always cheerful and ready for his work when the evening came round. A dinner was tendered to him by some of his literary friends in Boston; but he was so ill the day before that the banquet had to be given up. The strain upon his strength and nerves was very great during all the months he remained, and only a man of iron will could have accomplished what he did. He was accustoned to talk and write a good deal about eating and drinking, but I have rarely seen a man eat and drink less. He liked to dilate in imagination over the brewing of a bowl of punch, but when the punch was ready he drank less of it than anyone who might be present. It was the vSentiment of the thing and not the thing itself that engaged his attention. J scarcely saw him eat a hearty meal during his whole stay. Both at Parker's hotel in Boston, and at the Westminster in New York, everything was arranged by the proprietors for his comfort, and tempting dishss to piqi:.3 his invalid appetite were sent up at different hours of the day; but the influenza had seized him with masterful power, and held the strong man down till he left the country." When he arrived in New York on the evening of Christmas Day he found a letter from his daughter. Answering her next day he told her: "I wanted it much, for I had a frightful cold (English colds are nothing to those of this country) and was very miserable. ... It is a bad country to be unwell and travelling in. You are one of, say, a hundred people in a heated car with a great stove in it, all the little windows being closed; and the bumping and banging about are indescribable, the atmosphere detestable, the ordinary motion all but intolerable." The following day this addition was made to the letter. "I managed to read last night, but it was as much as I could do. To-day I am so very unwell that I have sent for a doctor. He has just been, and is in doubt whether I shall not have to stop reading for a while." His stronger will prevailed, and he went on without stopping. On the last day of the year he announced to us that though he had been very low he was getting right again; that in a couple of days he should have accomplished a fourth of the entire readings; and that the first month of the new year would see him through Philadelphia and Balti- more, as well as through two more nights ir. Boston. He also preprred his English friends for the startling intelligence they might shc-./y expect, of four readings coming off in a church, before an audience of two thousand people accommodated in pews, and with himself emerging from a \'estiy. The Life of Charles Dickens 633 II JANUARY TO APRIL 1868 The reading on 3 January closed a fourth of the entire series, and on that day Dickens wrote of the trouble brought on them by the "speculators," which to some extent had affected unfavourably the three previous nights in New Yoik. When adventurers bought up the best places, the public resented it by refusing the worst; to prevent it by first helping themselves, being the last thing they ever thought of doing. "We try to withhold the best seats from the speculators, but the unaccountable thing is that the great mass of the public buy of them (prefer it), and the rest of the public are injured if we have not got those very seats to sell them. We have now a travelling staff of six men, in spite of which Dolby, who is leaving me to-day to sell tickets in Philadelphia to-morrow morning, will no doubt get into a tempest of difficulties. Of course also, in such a matter, as many obstacles as possible are thrown in an Englishman's way; and he may himself be a little injudici' s into the bargain. Last night, for instance, he met one of the ' usheis ' (who show people to their seats) coming in with one of wur men. It is against orders that anyone employed in front should go out during the reading, and he took this man to task in the British manner. Instantly, the free and independent usher put on his hat and walked off. Seeing which, all the other free and inde- pendent ushers (some twenty in number) put on their hats and walked off; leaving us absolutely devoid and destitute of a staff for to-night. One has since been improvised: but itwas a small matter to raise a stir and ill-will about, especially as one of our men was equally in fault; and really there is little to be done at night. American people are so accustomed to take care of themselves, that one of these immense audiences will fall into their places with an ease amazing to a frequenter of St. James's Hall; and the certainty with which they are all in, before I go on, is a very acceptable mark of respect. Our great labour is outside; and we have been obliged to bring our staff up to six, besides a boy or two, by employment of a regular additional clerk, a B- ^tonian. The speculators buying the front seats (we have found instances of this being done by merchants in good position) the public won't have the back seats; return their tickets; write and print volumes on the subject; and deter others from coming. You are not to suppose that this prevails to any great extent, as our lowest house here has been ;^3«jo; but it does hit us. There is no doubt about it. Fortunateiy I saw the danger when the trouble began, and changed the list at the right time. . . . You may get an idea of the staff's work, I J -i * B^Hf ' ^^m 634 The Life of Charles Dickens by what is in hand now. They are preparing, numbering, and stamp- ing, 6000 tickets for Philadelphia, and Sooo tickets for Brooklyn. The moment those are done, another 8000 tickets will be wanted for Balti- more, and probably another 6000 for Washington: and all this in addi- tion to the correspondence, advertisements, accounts, travelling, and the nightly business of the readings four times a week I cannot get rid of this intolerable cold ! My landlord invented for me a drink of brandy, rum, and snow, called it a 'Rocky Mountain Sneezer,' and said it was to put down all less effectual sneezing; but it has not yet had the effect. Did I tell you that the favourite drink before you get up is an Eye-opener? There has been another fall of snow, succeeded by a heavy thaw." The day after (the 4th) he went back to Boston, and next day wrote to me: "I am to read here on Monday and Tuesday, return to New York on Wednesday, and finish there (except the farewells in April) on Thursday and Friday. The New York reading of Doctor Marigold made really a tremendous hit. The people doubted at first, having evidently not the least idea what could be done with it, and broke out at last into a perfect chorus of delight. At the end they made a great shout, and gave a rush towards the platform as if they were going to carry me off. It puts a strong additional arrow into my quiver. Another extraordinary success has been Nickleby and Boots at the Holly Tree (appreciated here in Boston, by the by, even more than Copperfield); and think of our last New York night bringing £e^0Q English into the house, after making more than the necessary deduc- tion for the present price of gold ! The manager is always going about with an immense bundle that looks like a sofa-cushion, but is in reality paper-money, and it had risen to the proportions of a sofa on the morning he left for Philadelphia. Well, the work is hard, the climate is hard, the life is hard: but so far the gain is enormous. My cold steadily refuses to stir an inch. It distresses me greatly at times, though it is always good enough to leave me for the needful two hours! I have tried allopathy, homoeopathy, cold things, warm things, sweet things, bitter things, stimulants, narcotics, all with the same result. Nothing will touch it." In the same letter, light was thrown on the ecclesiastical mystery. "At Brooklyn I am going to read in Mr. Ward Beecher's chapel: the only building there available for the purpose. You must understand that Brooklyn is a kind of sleeping-place for New York, and is sup- posed to be a great place in the money way. We let the seats pew by pew ! the pulpit is taken down for my screen and gas ! and I appear out of the vestry in canonical form ! These ecclesiastical entertainments come off on the evenings of the i6th, 17th, 20th, and 21st of the present month." His first letter after returning to New York (9 January) made additions to the Brooklyn picture. "Each evening an enormous ferry-boat will convey me and my state-carriage (not to mention halx a dozen wagons and any number of people and a few score of horses) across the river to Brooklyn, and will bring me back The Life of Charles Dickens 635 again. The sale of tickets there was an amazing scene. The noble army of speculators are now furnished (this is literally true, and I am quite serious) each man with a straw mattress, a little bag of bread and meat, two blankets, and a bottle of whisky. With this outfit, they lie down in line on the pavement the whole of the night before the tickets are sold: generally taking up their position at about 10. It being severely cold at Brooklyn, they made an immense bonfire in the street — a narrow street of wooden houses — which the police turned out to extinguish. A general fight then took place; from which the people farthest off in the line rushed bleeding when they saw any chance of ousting others nearer the door, put their mattresses in the spots so gained, and held on by the iron rails. At 8 in the morning Dolby appeared with the tickets in a portmanteau. He was immedi- ately saluted with a roar of Halloa! Dolby! So Charley has let you have the carriage, has he, Dolby? How is he, Dolby.? Don't drop the tickets, Dolby I Look alive, Dolby, etc., in the midst of which he pro- ceeded to business, and concluded (as usual) by giving universal dis- satisfaction. He is now going off upon a little journey to look over the ground and cut back again. This little journey (to Chicago) is twelve hundred miles on end, by railway, besides the back again !" It might tax the Englishman, but was nothing to the native American, It was part of his New York landlord's ordinary life in a week, Dickens told me, to go to Chicago and look at his theatre there on a Monday; to pelt back to Boston and look at his theatre there on a Thursday; and to come rushing to New York on a Friday, to apostrophise his enormous ballet. . . . His testimony as to improved social habits and ways was expressed very decidedly. "I think it reasonable to expect that as I go west- ward, I shall find the old manners going on before me, and may tread upon their skirts mayhap. But so far, I have had no more intrusion or boredom than I have when I lead the same life in England. I write this in an immense hotel, but I am as much at peace in my own rooms, and am left as wholly undisturbed, as if I were at the Station Hotel in York. I have now read in New York city to 40,000 people, and am quite as well known in the streets there as I am in London. People will turn back, turn again and face me, and have a look at me, or will say to one another, 'Look here! Dickens coming!' But no one ever stops me or addresses me. Sitting reading in the carriage outside the New York post office while one of the staff was stamping the letters inside, I became conscious that a few people who had been looking at the turn-out had discovered me within. On my peeping out good- humouredly, one of them (I should say a merchant's book-keeper) stepped up to the door, took off his hat, and said in a frank way: 'Mr. Dickens, I should very much like to have the honour of shaking hands with you' — and, that done, presented two others. Nothing could be more quiet or less intrusive. In the railways cars, if I see anybody who clearly wants to speak to me, I usually anticipate the wish by speaking myself. If I am standing on the brake outside (to u 636 The Life of Charles Dickens ■ avoid the intolerable otove), people getting down will say with a smile: As I am taking my departure. Mr. Dickens, and can't troublo you for more than a moment. I should like to take you by the hanH sir.' And so we shake hands and go our vays. ... Of course many of my impressions come through the readings. Thus I find the peoD?e lighter and more aumorous than formerly; and there must be a erSt deal of innocent imagination among every class, or they never could pet with such extraorainary pleasure as they do. the Boots's storv of the elopement of the two little children. They seem to see the children; and the women set up a shrill undercurrent of half-pitv and half-pleasure that IS quite affecting. To-night's reading is my 26th- bu as all the Philadelphia ti.Kets for four more are sold? as well as four at 1 ooklyn. you must assume that I am at— say— my :15th reading rij^nf. ri ff '° ^k"**''" ^".^"^'^^^ ^°^^ ^^°'"°° «dd; and I roughiv calculate that on this number Dolby will have another thousand pounds profit to pay me. These figures are of course between ourselves at present; but are they not magnificent? . . ." Then came as evci, the constant shadow that still attended him the slave in the chariot of his triumph. "The work is very severe' There is now no chance of my being rid of this American catarrh untii I embark for England. It is very distressing. It likewise happens, not seldom, that I am so dead beat when I come off that they lav me down on a sofa after I have been washed and dressed, and I lie there extremely faint, for a quarter of an hour. In that time I rallv and come right.'' One week later from New York, where he had become due on the i6th for the first of his four Brooklyn readings he wrote to his sister-in-law. ''My cold sticks to me. and iLn scarcely eLggerate what I undergo from sleeplessness. I rarely take any breakfast but an egg and a cup of tea— not even toast or bread and butter. Mv small dinner at 3. and a little quail or some such light thing when I come home at night is my daily fare; and at the hall I have estab- lished the custom of takmg an egg beaten up in sherry before going in, and another between the parts, which I think pulls me up . Baltimore and Washington were the cities in which he was now' on quitting New York, to read for the first time; and as to the latter some doubts arose He was at Philadelphia on 23 January, when he wrote: The worst of it is. that everybody one advises with has a monomania respecting Chicago. 'Good heavens, sir,' the great Phila- deiphia authority said to me this morning, 'if you don't read in Chicago the people will go into fits !' Well, I answered, I would rather they went into fits than I did. But he didn't seem to see it at all " To ^^yfelf he wrote from Philadelphia, beginning with a thank Heaven that he had struck off Canada and the West, for he found the wear and tear'-enormous." "Dolby decided that the croakers were wrong about Washington, and went on: the rather as his raised prices, which he put finally at three dollars each, gave satisfaction. Fields is so confident about Boston, that mv remain in rr Hc+ i«^i.,^». m all, 14 more readings there. I don't know how many more we'might The Life of Charles Dickens ^37 not have had here (where I have had attentions otherwise that have been very grateful to me), if we had chosen. Tickets are now being resold at ten dollars each. At Baltimore I had a charming little theatre, and a very apprehensive impulsive audience. It is remarkable to see how the Ghost of Slavery haunts the town; and how the shambling, untidy, evasive, and postponing Irrepressible proceeds about his free work, going round and round it, instead of at it. The melancholy absurdity of giving these people votes, at any rate at present, would glare at one out of every roll of their eyes, chuckle in their mouths, and bump in their heads, if one did not see (as one can- not help seeing in the country) that their enfranchisement is a mere party trick to get votes. Being at the Penitentiary the other day (this, while we mentior tes), and looking over the books, I noticed that almost every man iiad been 'pardoned' a day or two before his time was up. Why? Because if he had served his time out, he would have been ipso facto disfranchised. So, this form of pardon is gone through to save his vote; and as every officer of the prison holds his place only in right of his party, of course his hopeful clients vote for the party that has let them out! When I read in Mr. Beecher's church at Brooklyn, we found the trustees had suppressed the fact that a certain upper gallery holding 150 was 'the Coloured Gallery.' On the first night not a soul could be induced to enter it; and it was not until it became known next day that I was certainly not going to read there more than four times, that we managed to fill it. One night at New York, on our second or third row, there were two well-dressed women with a tinge of colour — I should say, not even quadroons. But the holder of one ticket who found his seat to be next them, demanded of Dolby 'What he meant by fixing him next to those two Gord darmed cusses of niggers?' and insisted on being supplied with another good place. Dolby firmly replied that he was perfectly certain Mr. Dickens wtDuld not recognise such an objection on any account, but he could have his money back if he chose. Which, after some squabbling, he had. In a comic scene in the New York Circus one night, when I was looking on, four white people sat down upon a form in a barber's shop to be shaved. A coloured man came as the fifth customer, and the four immediately ran away. This was much laughed at and applauded. In the Baltimore Penitentiary, the white prisoners dine on one side of the room, the coloured prisoners on the other; and no one has the slightest idea of mixing them. But it is indubitably the fact that exhalations not the most agreeable arise from a number of coloured people got together, and I was obliged to beat a quick retreat from their dormitory. I strongly believe that they will die out of this country fast. It seems, looking at them, so manifestly absurd to suppose it possible that they can ever hold tb ir own against a restless, shifty, striving, stronger race." On 4 February he wrote to me from Washing^ in: It will be no „_v.v.-.a V.-4 5.ii-_- iuiu vi a T viviiiig px&vskC UCLCUi i^ -..iiw VwiV ill bCX CS LXX J Ij close of bis lotter is given. Its anecdote of President Lincoln was «l t 1 I m^ 638 The Life of Charles Dickens II {{,'. |3 'i 1; ! ; r » II I ^^K'Jli&L repeatedly told by Dickens after his return, and I am under no necessity to withhold from it the authority of Mr. Sumner's name I am gomg to-morrow to see the President, who has sent to me twice. I dmed with Charles Sumner last Sunday, against my rul'»- and as I had stipulated for no party, Mr. Secretary Stanton was the only other guest, besides his own secretary. Stanton is a man with a very remarkable memory, and extraordinarily familiar with my ^ u j' •• * ^^ ^"^ Sumner having been the first two public men at the dymg President's bedside, and having remained with him until he breathed his last, we fell into a very interesting conversation after dinner, when, each of them giving his own narrative separately '•the usual discrepancies about details of time were observable. Then Mr Stanton told me a curious little story which wUl form the remaindei of this short letter. "On the afternoon of the day on which the President was shot there was a cabinet council at which he presided. Mr. Stanton' being at the time commander-in-chief of the Northern troops that were concentrated about here, arrived rather late. Indeed they were waiting for him. and on his entering the room the President broke off m something he was saying, and remarked: 'Let us proceed to business, gentlemen.' Mr. Stanton then noticed, with great surprise that the President sat with an air of dignity in his chair instead of lollmg about it m the most ungainly attitudes, as his invariable custom was; and that instead of telling irrelevant or questionable stones, he was grave and calm, and quite a different man. Mr. btanton, on leaving the council with the Attorney-General, said to him. That is the most satisfactory cabinet meeting I have attended ft)r many a long day! What an extraordinary change in Mr. Lincoln!' JJ}^.f^^^^^^y-General replied, 'We all saw it, before you came in. While we were waiting for you, he said, with his chin down on his breast. Gentlemen, something very extraordinary is going to hap- pen, and that very soon." ' To which the Attorney-General had ob- served. Something good, sir, I hope?' when the President answered very gravely: I don't know; I don't know. But it will happen, and Shortly too ! As they were all impressed by his manner, the Attorney- GeneraJ took him up again: 'Have you received any information, sir. not yet disclosed to us?' 'No,' answered the President: 'but I have had a dream. And I have now had the same dream three times. Once on the night preceding the Battle of Bull Run. Once, on the ?'S Ij^^^s'^^r.^'^'^^ another (naming a battle also not favourable .i?^- u. °^^- P^® ^^^" ^^"^ ^" ^^s breast again, and he sat reflecting. Might one ask the nature of this dream, sir?' said the Attorney- General. Well, replied the President, without lifting his head or changing his attitude. 'I am on a great broad rolling river—and I am in a boat--and I drift— and I drift!— but this is not business'- suddenly raising his face and looking round the table as Mr. Stanton entered, let us proceed to business, gentlemen.' Mr. Stanton and the Awiuxuuy-v^nerai said, as they walked on together, it would be The Life of Charles Dickens 639 curious to notice whether anything ensued on this; and they agreed to notice. He was shot that night." . . . Dickens's last letter from America rvas written to his daughter Mary from Boston on 9 April, the day before his sixth and last farewell night. "I not only read last Friday when I was doubtful of being able to do so, but read as I never did before, and astonished the audience quite as much as myself. You never saw or heard such a scene of excitement. Longfellow and all the Cambridge men have urged me to give in. I have been very near doing so, but feel stronger to-day. I cannot tell whether the catarrh may have done me any lasting injury in the lungs or other breathing organs, until I shall have rested and got home. I hope and believe not. Consider the weather! There have been two snowstorms since I wrote last, and to-day the town is blotted out in a ceaseless whirl of snow and wind. Dolby is as tender as a woman, and as watchful as a doctor. He never leaves me during the reading, now, but sits at the side of the platform, and keeps his eye upon me all the time. Ditto George the gasman, steadiest and most reliable man I ever employed. ..." In New York, where there were five farewell nights, three thousand two hundred and ninety-eight dollars were the receipts of the last, on 20 April; those of the last at Boston, on the 8th, having been three thousand four hundred and fifty-six dollars. But, on earlier nights in the same cities respectively, these sums also had been reached; and indeed, making allowance for an exceptional night here and there, the receipts varied so wonderfully little, that a mention of the high- est average returns from other places will give no exaggerated impression of the ordinary receipts throughout, excluding fractions of dollars, the lowest were New Bedford ($1640), Rochester (S1906), Springfield ($1970), and Providence ($2140). Albany and Worcester averaged something less than S2400; while Hartford. Buffalo. Balti- more, Syracuse, Newhaven, and Portland rose to $2600. Washington's last night was $26iv), no night there having less than $2500. Phila- delphia exceeded Washington by $300, and Brooklyn went ahead of Philadelphia by $200. The amount taken at the four Brooklyn readings was 11,128 dollars. The New York public dinner was given at Delmonico's, the hosts were more than two hundred, and the chair was taken by Mr. Horace Greeley. Dickens attended with great difficulty, and spoke in pain. But he used the occasion to bear his testimony to the changes of twenty-five years; the rise of vast new cities; growth in the graces and amenities of life; much improvement in the press, essential to every other advance; and changes in himself leading to opinions more deliberately formed. He promised his kindly entertainers that no copy of his Notes or his Chuzzlewit, should in future be issued by him without accompanying mention of the changes to which he had referred that night; of the politeness, delicacy, sweet temper, hospit- ality, and consideration in all ways for which he had to thank them; and of his gratitude for the respect shown, during all his visiti 640 The Life of Charles Dickens to the privacy enforced upon him by the nature of his work and the condition of his health. He had to leave the room before the proceedings were over. On tlie following Monday he read to his last American audience, telling them at the close that he hoped often to recall them, equally by his winter fire and in the green summer weather, and never as a mere public audience but as a host of personal friends. He sailed two days later in the Russia, and reached England in the first week of May 1868. ' 339 ark and the re over. On nee, telling lally by his r as a mere )d two days sek of May I. II. BOOK TENTH SUMMING UP 1868-70. /ET. 56-8 Last Readings Last Book HI. Personal Characteristics iy 339 64T V-:' V.:8 n' Pill LAST READINGS 1868-70 Favourable weather helped Dickens pleasan ly home. He had profited greatly by the sea voya^^e, perhaps more greatly by its repose; and on 25 May he described himself to his Boston friends as brown beyond belief, and causing the f;Teat»ist disappointment in all quartc -s by looking so well. "My doctor v^as quite broken down in spirits on seeing me for the first time last Saturday. Good Lord ! seven years younger ! said the doctor, recoiling." That he gave all the credit to "those fine days at sea," and none to the 'est from such labours as he had passed through, the close of the letter too sadly showed. "We are already settling — think of this! the details of my farewell course of readings." Even on his way out to America that enterprise was in hand. From Halifax he had written to me: "I told the Chappells that when I got back to England, I would have a series of far'?well readings in town and country; and then read No More. They at once offer in writing to pay all expenses whatever, to pay the ten per cent, for management, and to pay me, for a series of 75, six thousand pounds." The terms were raised and settled before the first Boston readings closed. The number was to be a hundred: and the payment, over and above expenses and percentage, eight thoi'sand pounds. Such a temptation undoubtedly was great; and though it was a fatal mistake which Dickens committed in yielding to it, it was not an ignoble one. He did it under nc excitement from the Amer :an gains, of which he knew nothing when he pledged himself to che enterprise. No man could care essentially less for mere money than he did. But the neces- sary provision for many sons was a constant anxiety; he was proud of what the readings had done to abridge this care; and the very strain of them under which it seems that his health had first given way, and which he always steadily refused to connect especially with them, had also broken the old confidence of being at all times avail- able for his higher pursuit. What affected his health only he would not regard as part of the question either way. That was to be borne as the lot more or less of all men; and the more thorough he could make his feeling of independence, and of ability to rest, by what was now in hand, the better his final chances of a perfect recovery would be. That was the spirit in which he entered on this last engagement. It was an opportunity offered for making a particular work reaiiy 643 iS^i mt 644 The Life of Charles Dickens which with a pardonable cxultatirhTilSvl't^r* •^^'^"'^■"'•'■''' I r.n^iibn money. Atter all. we were obliged to call in the aiH ^f o money-changer, to determine what he should pay as 1 is share of th^ t!^?^h-^°'' °^ conversion into gold. With this^deduSion made ? /^n'^^ r A *° ^"^y- ^'3.000 received from the Chappells Tnrl ^20.000 from America. V/hat I had made by them before T^nl only ascertain by a long examination of Coutts's books I .ho n S thft m^L"°' VT f^'f ^^°'^°°^ ^- I "mlmb'^ttt'/mat A? hur SrS?h ^Th" *^'/''^ ^^^'''^ ^"^ ^°""*^ campaign with^oo? nrris:ft'oifo.^'^;^^^ ^-^ --y^^^^^ p^^^-- th:n?e:fmt^,^^^^^^^^^^^ He had scarcely begun these last readings than he was hp<,.f k impression would not be so horrible as ?oke^n^h;^" whether the time, is what I cannot satisfy n\yJfuponVhTd^^^^^ It is in three short parts: i. mere Fa mn sets Nn^h r? ^1 ^^'''^• watch Nancy. .. Th^ scene on London'S^e ^3''^t^^^^ Claypole from his sleep to tell his perverted storv to Q^i ^ ^ lu Murder, and the Murderer's sense o^fbdngLunted^ti ^h"^ l^^ aiid cut about the text with great care'lnl itl^v ^^'p^^^^^.f^it:^, to-day referred the boolc and the question to the SpSs as lo largely interested." I had a strong di.slike to this prSf less nor haps on the ground which ought to have been taken & the ph^ska; exertion it would invol . , than becau :,c such a sublec^seemed^to b^^^^ altogether out of the province of reading; and it wis resoled that ^ TarS Sair^ ^'°^^!^'/ ""'IVi '"^^^^^ P^varaudtufefn 01. jamcss i-iail. ... We might have atrrP^^H " 1,^ ^„ - ■ <j g of it will quisiticns, ts squared lOunted to le aid of a lare of the 1 made, I 'as ;^2888; per cent, ay of our ;^i3.ooo. gold was i or so o, ?agement K'O years, >ells, and . I could I should t I made "^ith poor Ives; but bargain £60; and 3set by a s. Chap- ment to in Man- mounce- n Oliver t or not. y carry- ther the another ; think? le on to 1 ro 'ses and the idapted . I have Is as so ess per- •hysical d to be 1, that, enco in t„ '<j The Life of Charles Dickens 645 if differ about it very well, because we only wanted to find oul the truth if we could, and because it was quite understood that I wanted to leave behind me the recollection of something very passionate and dramatic, done with simple means, if the art would justify the theme." Apart from mere personal considerations, the whole question lay in these last words. It was impossible for me to admit that the effect to be produced w .3 legitimate, or such as it was desirable to associate with the recolk-:tion of his readings. . , . The second portion of the enterprise opened with the New Year; and thi Sikes and Nancy scenes, everywhere his prominent subject, exacted the most terrible physical exertion from him. In January he was at Clifton, where he had given, he told his sister-in-law, "by far the best Murder yet done"; while at the same date he wrote to his daughter: "At Clifton on Monday night we had a contagion of fainting; and yet the place was not hot. I should think we had from a dozen to twenty ladies taken out stiff and rigid, at various times! It became quite ridiculous." He was afterwards at Cheltenham. "Macready is of opinion that the Murder is two Macbeths. He de- clares that he heard every word of the reading, but I doubt it. Alas ! he is sadly infirm." On the 27th he wrote to his daughter from Tor- quay that the place into which they had put him to read, and where a pantomine had been played the night before, was something between a Methodist chapel, a theatre, a circus, a riding-school, and a cow- house. That day lie wrote to me from Bath: "Lr,ndor's ghost goes along the silent streets here before me. . . . The place looks to me like a cemetery which the Dead have succeeded in rising and taking. Having built streets of their old gravestones, they wander about scantly trying to 'look alive.' A dead failure." In the second week of February he was in London, under engage- ment to return to Scotland (which he had just left) after the usual weekly reading at St. James's Hall, when there was a sudden inter- ruption. "My foot has turned lame again !" was his announcement to me on the 15th. . . . A few days' rest again brought so much relief, that, against tlie urgent entreaties of members of his family as well as other friends, he was in the railway carriage bound for Edinburgh on the morning of 20 February, accompanied by Mr. Chappell himself. "I came down lazily on a sofa," he wrote to me from Edinburgh next day, "hardly changing my position the whole way. The railway authorities had do'.ie all sorts of things, and I was more comfortable than on the sofa at the hotel. The foot gave nie no uneasiness, and 'as been quiet and steady all night." He was nevertheless under the necessity, two days later, of consulting Mr. Syme; and he told his daughter that this great authority had warned him against over-fatigue in the readings, and given him some slight remedies, but otherwise reported him in "just perfectly splendid condition." . . . The whole of that March month he went on with the scenes from Oliver Twist. "The foot goes famously," he wrote to his daughter. 'K ■ 646 The Life of Charles Dickens I feel the fatigue in it (four Murders in one week) but not overmuch It merely aches at night, and so does the other, sympathetically I suppose. . . . The end was near. A public dinner had been piven hmi in Liverpool on 10 April, with Lord Dufterin in the chair and a reading was due from him in Preston on the 22nd of that month But on Sunday the i8th we had ill report of him from Chester and on the 2ist he wrote from Blackpool to Jiis sister-in-law: "I have come to this Sea-Beach Hotel (charming) for a day's rest. I am much better than I was on Sunday; but shall want careful looking to to get through the readings. My weakness and deadness are all on 'the K 5 t'J'"'} '{ ^ ^°"'* ^°°^ ^* anything I try to touch with my left hand I don t know where it is. I am in (secret) consultation with trank Beard who says that I have given him indisputable evidences of overworK which he could wish to treat immediately; and so I have telegraphed for him. I have had a delicious walk by the sea to-dav and I sleep soundly, and have picked up amazingly in appetite. Mv foot IS greatly better too, and I wear my own boot." Next day was appointed for the reading at Preston; and from that place hr wrote to me, while waiting the arrival of Mr. Beard: "Don't say auythin- about It, but the tremendous, severe nature of this work is a httl° shaking mc. At Chester last Sunday I found myself extremely giddv and extremely uncertain of my sense of touch, both in the left lee and the left hand and arms. . . . Don't say anything in the Gad's direction about my being a little out of sorts. I have broached the matter of course; but very lightly. Indeed there is no reason for broaching it otherwise." Even to the close of that letter he had buoyed himself up with the hope that he might yet be "coached" and that the readin<xs need not be discontinued. But Mr. Beard stopped them at once, and brought his patient to London. On Friday morning tho 2^r 1 the same envelope brought me a note from himself to say that he' was well enough, but tired; in perfectly good spirits, not at Mi uneasy and writing this himself that 1 should have i! under his own hand' with a note from lus eldest son to say that his father apoeared to him to b ; very ill, and that a consultatio.x had been appointed with bir Ihomat. Watson. ... ^ ^^f'i'M^m^- The Life of Charles Dickens 647 II LAST BOOK 1869-70 The last book undertaken by Dickens was to be published in illus- trated monthly lumbers, of the old form, but to close with the twelfth.* It closed, unfinished, with the sixth number, which was itself underwritten by two pages. His first fancy for the tale was expressed in a letter in the middle of July. "What shoul' you think of the idea of a story beginning in this way?— Two peopie, boy and girl, or very young going apart froK one another, pledged to be married after many years — at the end of the book. The interest to arise out of the tracing of their separate ways, and the impossibility of teUing what will be done with that impending fate." This was laid aside; but it left a marked trace on the story as afterwards designed, in the position of Edwin Drood and his betrothed. I first heard of the later design in a letter dated "Friday the 6th of August 1869," in which after speaking, with the usual unstinted praise he bestowed always on what moved him in others, of a little tale he had received frv his journax, he spoke of the change that had occurred to him for tne new tale by himself. "I laid aside the fancy I told you of, and have a very curious and new idea for my new story Not a communicable idea (or the interest of the book would be gone) but a very strong one, though difficult to work." The story, I learnt immediately afterward, was to be that of the murder of a nephew by his uncle; the originality of which was to consist in the review of the murderer's career by himself at the cJose, when its temptations were to be dwelt upon as if, not he the culprit, but some other man, were the tempted. The last chapters were to be written in the con- dem ned cell, to which his wickedness, all elaborately elicited from him * In drawing the agreement for the publication, Mr. Oxivry had, by Dickens's wish, inserted a clause thought to be altogether needless, but found to be sadly pertinent. It was the first time such a clause had been inserted in one of his igree- ments. "That if the said Charles Dickens shall die during the composition ot the said work of the Mystery of Edwin Drood, or shall otherwise become incapable of completing the said work for publication in twelve monthly numbers as agreed, it shall be referred .0 John Forster, Esq., one of Her Majesty's Cf.r; nissioners Ji Lunacy, or in the case of his death, incapacity, ot refusal to act, Ihen to such person as shall be named by Her Majesty's Attorney-General for the time beine;, to determine the amount which shall be repaid by the said Charles Dickens, his executors or administrators, to the said Frederic Chapman as a fair compensation for so much of the said work as shall not have been completed for pubKcation." Th*^ =:uTn to hfi raid at once for zs.ooo copies was £7500; publisher and authcn: sharing equally in the profit of all sales beyond that impression. . . . W 'l.| I. 648 The Life of Charles Dickens oViilTtt:rn::S^i^^^^^^^^ inm Discovery by the murderer hard upon cZZ:S::^'^,^^^ ^^^ object was to follow was to be baffled till towards thfrnt I ^^?f °^"-y of the murderer which had resisted hTcoSo.fvP .^ .' ^!?' ^^ ""^^"^ °^ "^ S^^d ring thrown the body not onlv the -f' °^ ^' '" ^'^'^ ^"*° ^^^^^ he had but the localit/'of the crime and thr"''^""'^ ''^' '° ^^ ^^^"t^«^^' much was told to mrbefore anv of Ih k" T^'" committed it. So will be recollected thnf fi^ ^ ^. , ^^'Z ^°°^' ^^^ written; and it betrothed o^yi? t dr enr'^fm^nr \''''''' *° ^^ ^^^^^ *« ^^ with him froni their last SeXw Rolf'* °"; ^^' ^^°"8^* ^^^v Crisparkle the sistor ^f t n ?'^ ^"""^^ *° "^^^-y Tartar, and have^.eri:hed intsist^iJ^K^^^^^^^^ '^"^^f ' ^ ^^-"k' "o murderer. ^^^^^"^g lartar hnally to unmask and seize the destntc'eXwTitrf^^^^^^ --" P-'ts of the no hint or prepamfon fo^th^ i^n f numbers; there was advance; an^d tLTr^ma nedtt:rn\vLTlL"^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^ written of the book bv Thack^r^t .t ^ ^""^ himself so sadlv evidence of matured d^esiinsne^^^^^^ ^^^*^- ^^^e planned never to be executed rolds o?f h. ^"^?"^P^f ^^^d, intentions be traversed, ^oals shinhi^ Tn fufr / *^°"^^t marked out never to wanting her^. IttJ^U^lur^^^t^^^^^ '" ^^ ^^^^^^^' ^^^ theless to give promise of a muc^gSr boo^^^^^^^^^^^^ ""T'' predecessor. "I hope his hnnV ic fi^Li? S .. *^^" ^^^ immediate ihe news of his death was flashed to A^'"^'' ^yp^e Longfellow when his most beautiful works if nSfl^J^^T'"''- " ^" certainly one of too sad to think the ^enh.i^^^^^^ incomplete." Some of it? ch.r^l " ^''"'J"' ^^"'^' ^"^ left it in its description^ hhim/^n.T' ""'^ *°"^^^^ ^^*^ subtlety, and was wantinfto ?he reaiTtv^ "^^^^^^ ^t its best. Not a line the most widdy con ra tld and^" T. ""'T'' ^^'T^^ ^'^^'^' ^^ P^^^^« cathedral town and the lurirn J ^''"'7''}^'^^^^^ vividness the lazy old lightness and buovLcv of?nZ^^^ ^"^- ^°"^«thing like the the hSmour; the scenes of the rhnT '?'''^' §^^'^ ^ "^^^ freshness to had both noveX and n?4tv of^^^^^^^^^^ her lucldess betrothed in chambers wSi hS c erk^a^,d th. f ^' '"^ ^^.''''' ^"'^ ^^- Grewgious Sapsea. and the blusLr ne nh L!>f ^^'.^^vaiters, the conceited fool rate comedy jLs TwiSfnn ^^ ?^^^^^ were first- -nd the lodging 10^^^^^^^ MLwn''^'^''l °^ ^^''' ^a Creeby; Twnikleton but a so^r^ a^/coun o^^^^^^^^^^^ though she gave iVl4 T^dgers in her veins -T ^.. \ ^^^"^ }'^^°'^' ^^^^ that of Mrs. boarding-s..ool he mistress ^^ '"^ '^'^>^ ^^^" *° ^ ^^^ g^nt^^^l of about your ow \gf o/it nSv be '-''' ^ '"^^ than Vourself, a poorness of blood fiovved from X i f "^t .y^^'" younger, and my life." IVas evefanS^^ I'f ^"" *^^°"Sb gentility.? y^^^i^S oeiter said of a school-fare of starved The last page of ig:<^z£i»:i2 n^^-j ,..p .-x. . ^, ^ i~6 ^ux.?2 ^,„^,^ ,,ao wxiiten in tlie Chalet in the e murderer s to follow e murderer a gold ring lich he had ; identified tted it. So en; and it iven to liis ight away artar, and think, to seize the :ts of the there was lapters in f so sadly 3ath. The ntentions : never to ;hed, was ed nevcr- nmediate ow when ly one of would be d left it ety, and ot a hne of places the lazy like the hness to strothed "cwgious ted foo] ire first- Creeby; ive Miss of Mrs. genteel ourself, er, and hrough starved in the The Life ot Charles Dickens 649 afternoon of his last day of consciousness. The MS. more startlingly showed him how unsettled the habit he most prized had become, in the clashing of old and new pursuits. "When I had written" (22 December, 1869) "and, as I thought, disposed of the first two Num- bers of my story, Clowes informed me to my horror that they were, together, twelve printed pages too short! II Consequently I had to trans- pose a chapter from number two to number one, and remodel number two altogether! This was the more unlucky, that it came upon me at the time when I was obliged to leave the book, in order to get up the readings" (the additional twelve for which Sir Thomas Watson's consent had been obtained); "quite gone out of my mind since I left them off. However, I turned to it and got it done, and both numbers are now in type. Charles Collins has designed an excellent cover." It was his wish that his son-in-law should have illustrated the story; but this not being practicable, upon an opinion expressed by Mr! Millais which the result thoroughly justified, choice was made of Mr. S. L. Fildes. This reference to the last effort of Dickens's genius had been written as it thus stands when a discovery of some interest was made by the writer. Within the leaves of one of Dickens's other manuscripts were found some deta,ched slips of his writing, on paper only half the size of that used for the tale, so cramped, underlined, and blotted as to be nearly illegible, which on close inspection proved to be a scene in which Sapsea the auctioneer is introduced as the principal figure, among a group of characters new to the story. The explanation of it perhaps is. that having become a little nervous about the course of the tale, from a fear that he might have plunged too soon into the incidents leading on to the catastrophe, such as the Datchery assump- tion in the fifth number (a misgiving he had certainly expressed to his sister-in-law), it had occurred to him to open some fresh veins of character incidental to the interest, though not directly part of it. and so to handle them in connection with Sapsea as a little to sus- pend the final development even wliile assisting to strengthen it. Before beginning any number of a serial, he used, as we have seen in former instances, to plan briefly what he intended to put into it chapter by chapter; and his first number-plan of Drood had the fol- lowing: "Mr. Sapsea. Old Tory jackass. Connect Jasper with him. (He will want a solemn donkey by and by)"; which was effected by bringing together both Durdlej and Jasper, for connection with Sapsea, in the matter of the epitaph for Mrs. Sapsea's tomb. The scene now discovered might in this view have been designed to strengthen and carry forward that element in the tale; and other- wise it very sufficiently expresses itself. It would supply an answer, if such were needed, to those who have asserted that the hopeless decadence of Dickens as a writer had set in before his death. Amon" the lines last written by him, these are the very last we can ever 339* m 650 The Life of Charles Dickens hope to receive; and they seem to me a delightful specimen of th^ Kist^TaThav'^ 'r ^" ^'' P"'"^' ^"^ *^^ rar^eS which a^; novelist can have, of revealing a character by a touch H^r« are a couple of people. Kimber and Peartree not known to us before, whom we read off thoroughly in a dozen words Jd as to Sapsea himself, auctioneer aid Mayor of Soist^ham it are face to face with what before we only dimly realised «n^ ""^ ^7jhV°^^"'° j^^^^«^' '" his business pulp^ %>la4nToff th^ How Mr. Sapsea Ceased to be a Member OF THE Eight Club Told by himself .1 L^l^K "^ *"" *^^^ ^^"^ ^^''' ^ proceeded by a circuitous route toth^ club It bemg our weekly night of meeting. I found that we mustered Ei^hi" Club'fve- ^' -^.'■^r-"-d -^- the denominltion'ft^^ Eight C ub We were eight m number; we met at eight o'clock during eight months of the year; we played eieht l^mJt\^ T handed cribbage. at eightpen'ce ihe gamerlr^frugTsup^r wa^ composed of eight rolls, eight mutton chops, eight^pork 5^1^^ eight baked potatoes, eight man-ow- bones, with eLhrtoIstsS eight bottles of ale. There may. or may not b^a cfrtain h.^n of colour in the ruling idea of^this (toLopt a pLase of ou^^^^^^^^^^ ueighbours) reunion. It was a little idea of mine ^ the name of Kimber By profession, a dancing-master. A common Si the S "'' °' "'"' "'^"^ ^^^'^'"*^ °^ ^^g-^y - ^nowSdg; •Anrttij'iftff. !^?. Cl"b-room, Kimber was making the remark; And he still half-beheves him to be very high in the Churc^i ' I lAf^^^^ hangmg up my hat on the eighth peg bv the door I caught Kimber's visual ray. H^ lowered it.\nd passed a remark Z^^tZ '^^T u *^^" "^°°"- ^ ^'^ "«t t^ke particular notke of this at the moment, because the world was often pleased to be a Tift?; shy of ecclesiastical topics in my presence For I felt thpH picked out (though perhaps onl(^ ^through acldden^e tcH S aruVclTand lUrXhT' r'^' ' ^^^L '"^ glorious t^nSitidon' min^d's- ?ut fown t"it?s'm'fnri ThTewV 'rfn' *° '>' ^^^^^^- "Another member of the Eight Club was P^rfr^^- ^-..^ of the Royal College of Surgeo'ns, uT P^r^::T:ott::Z?^i: - - X- — 0-— "wva^vci -.iicy wanx mm. and is not the parish The Life of Charles Dickens 651 doctor. Mr. Peartree may justify it to the grasp of hts mind thus to do his republican utmost to bring an appointed officer into contempt. Suffice it that Mr. Peartree can never justify it to the grasp of mine. "Between Peartree and Kimber there was a sickly sort of feeble- minded alliance. It came under my particular notice when I sold off Kimber by auction. (Goods taken in execution.) He was a widower in a white under- waistcoat, and slight shoes with bows, and had two daughters not ill-looking. Indeed the reverse. Both daughters taught dancing in scholastic establishments for Young Ladies — had done so at Mrs. Sapsea's; nay, Twinkleton's — and both, in giving lessons, presented the unwomanly spectacle of having little fiddles tucked under their chins. In spite of which, the younger one might, if I am correctly informed — 1 will raise the veil so far as to say I know she might — have soared for life from this degrading taint, but for having the class of mind allotted to what I call the common herd, and being so incredibly devoid of veneration as to become painfully ludicrous. "When 1 sold off Kimber without reserve, Peartree (as poor as he, can hold together) had several prime household lots knocked down to him. 1 am not to be blinded; and of course it was as plain to me what he was going to do with them; as it was that he was a brown hulking sort of revolutionary subject who had been in India with the soldiers, and ought (for the sake of society) to have his neck broke. I saw the lots shortly afterwards in Kimbcr's lodgings — through the window — and I easily made out that there had been a sneaking pretence of lending them till better times. A man with a smaller knowledge of the world than myself might have been led to suspect that Kimber had held back money from his creditors, and fraudulently bought the goods. But, besides that I knew for certain he had no money. I knew that this would involve a species of forethought not to be made compatible with the frivolity of a caperer, inoculating other people with capering, for his bread. "As it was the first time I had seen either of those two since the sale, I kept myself in what I call Abeyance. When selling him up, I had delivered a few remarks — shall I say a little homily? — concern- ing Kimber, which the world did regard as more than usually worth notice. I had come up into my pulpit, it was said, uncommonly like — and a murmur of recognition had repeated his ( 1 will not name whose) title, before I spoke. I had then gone on to say that all present would find, in the first page of the catalogue that was lying before them, in the last paragraph before the first lot, the following words: 'Sold in pursuance of a writ of execution issued by a creditor.' I had then proceeded to remind my friends, that however frivolous, not to say contemptible, the business by which a man got his goods together, still his goods were as dear to him, and as cheap to society (if sold without reserve), as though his pursuits had been of a ciiaracter that would bear serious contemplation. 1 had then divided my text M 11 652 The Life of Charles Dickens t f if I may be allowed so to call it) into three heads: firstly. Sold- secondly In pursuance of a writ of execution; thirdly, Issued by a creditor' with a few moral reflections on each, and winding up with. 'Now to the first lot in a manner that was complimented when I afterwards mingled with my hearers. '^ "So. not being certain on what terms I and Kimber stood I was grave. I was chilling. Kimber. however, moving to me, I moved to Kimber. (I was the creditor who had isssued the writ. Not that ,t matters.) "- '"I was alluding Mr. Sapsea.' said Kimber. *to a stranger who entered into conversation with me in the street as I came to the Club He had been speaking to you just before, it seemed, by the church yard; and though you had told him who you were, I could hardJv persuade him that you were not high in the Church ' " 'Idiot!' said Peartree. "'Ass!' said Kimber. " 'Idiot and Ass!' said the other five members. ^ " 'Idiot and Ass, gentlemen.' I remonstrated, looking around me are strong expressions to apply to a young man of good appearance and address. My generosity was roused; I own it. " 'You'll admit that he must be a Fool.' said Peartree " 'You can't deny that he must be a Blockhead.' said Kimber "Their tone of disgust amounted to being offensive. Why should the young man be so calumniated? What had he done' He had onJv made an innocent and natural mistake. I controlled my generous indignation, and said so. " 'Natural?' repeated Kimber. 'He's a Natural!' "The remaining six members of the Eight Club laughed unani- mously. It stung me. It was a scornful laugh. My anger was roused in behalf of an absent, friendless stranger. I rose (for I had been sitting down) . " 'Gentlemen.' I said with dignity, 'I will not remain one of this Club allowing opprobrium to be cast on an unoffending person in his absence. I will not so violate what I call the sacred rites of hospi- tality. Gentlemen, until you knt)w how to behave yourselves better I leave you. Gentlemen, until then I withdraw, from this place or meeting, whatever personal qualifications I may have brought into It. Gentlemen, until then you cease to be the Eight Club, and must make the 1 'jst you can of becoming the Seven.' "I put on my hat and retired. As I went downstairs 1 distinctly heard them give a suppressed cheer. Such is the power of demeanour and knowledge of mank id. I had forced it out of them 'II "Whom should I meet in the street, within a few yards of the door : txa^. xi^n rvxicxt Ziic V.1UW \vii3 iiciu, Dut the seiisame young man 653 will add so The Life of Charles Dickens whose cause 1 had felt it my duty so warmly — and I disinterestedly — to take up. " ' Is it Mr. Sapsea,' he said doubtfully, 'or is it ' " 'It is Mr. Sapsea,' I replied. " 'Pardon me, Mr. Sapsea; you appear warm, sir.' " 'I have been warm,' I said, 'and on your account.' Having stated the circumstances at some length (my generosity almost fwer- powered him), I asked him his name. " 'Mr. Sapsea,' he answered, looking down, 'your penetration is so acute, your glance into the souls of your fellow men is so penetrating, that if I was hardy enough to deny that my name is Poker, what would it avail me?" "I don't know that 1 had quite exactly made out to a fraction that his name was Poker, but I daresay I had been pretty near doing it. " 'Well, well,' said 1, trying to put him at his ease by nodding my head in a soothing way. ' Your name is Poker, and there is no harm in being named Poker.' " 'Oh Mr. Sapsea!' cried the young man, in a very well-behaved manner. 'Bless you for those words!' He then, as if ashamed of having given way to his feelings, looked down again. " 'Come, Poker,' said I, let me hear more about you. Tell me. Where are you going to. Poker? and where do you come from?' " 'Ah Mr. Sapsea!' exclaimed the young man. 'Disguise from you is impossible. You know already that I come from somewhere, and am going somewhere else, if 1 was to deny it, what would it avail me?' " 'Then don't deny it,' was my remark. " 'Or,' pursued Poker, in a kind of despondent rapture, 'or if I was to deny that I came to this town to see and hear you, sir, what would it avail me? Or if I was to deny ' " The fragment ends there, and the hand that could alone have com- pleted it is at rest for ever. 'hi jmeanour Some personal characteristics remain tor illustration before the end is briefly told. 654 The Life of Charles Dickens III PERSONAL CHARACTERISTICS 1836-70 Objection has been taken to this biography as likely to disappoint Its readers ,n not making them "ta'k to Dickens as Boswell makes them talk to Johnson. But where u ill the blame lie if a man takes up Pickwick and IS disappumted to find that he is not reading Rasselas^ A book must be judged for what it aims to be. and not for what it cannot by possibility be. I suppose so remarkable an author as Dickens hardly ever lived who carried so little of authorship into ordinal ■ social intercourse. Potent as the sway of his writings was oyer hi i, it expressed itself in other ways. Traces or triumphs of literary labour, displays of conversational or other personal prc- domii anco, were no part of the influence he exerted over friends To them he was only the pleasaiitest of companions, with whom thev forgot that he had ever written anything, and felt only the charm which a nature of such capacity for supreme enjoyment causes everv- one around it to enjoy. His talk was unaffected and natural never bookish in the smallest degree. He was quite up to the average of well-read men; but as there was no ostentation of it in his writing so neither was there in his conversation. This was so attractive because so keenly observant, and lighted up with so many touches of humorous fancy; but. with every possible thing to give relish to it. there were not many things to bring away. . . . A dislike of all display was rooted in him; and his objection to posthumous honours, illustrated by the instructions in his will was very strikingly expressed two years before his death, v,-hen Mr' Thomas Fairbairn asked his help to a proposed recognition of Rajah ±5rooke s services by a memorial !n Westminster Abbey "I am verv strongly impelled" (24 June, 186S) "to comply with any request of yours But these posthumous honours of committee, subscriptions and Westminster Abbey are so profoundly unsatisfactory in mv eves that—plainly— I would rather have nothing to do with them in any case. My daughter and her aunt unite with me in kindest regards to Mrs Fairbairn, and I hope you will believe in the possession of mine until I am quietly buried without any memorial but such as I have set up in my lifetime." Asked a year later (August 1869) to say some- thing on the inauguration of Leigh Hunt's bust at his grave in Kensal Oreen he told the committee that he had a very strong objection to speech-making beside graves. "I do not expect or wish my feelings in this wise to guide other men; still, it is so serious with me and the The Life of Charles Dickens 655 idea of ever being the subject of such a ceremony myself is ho repug- nant to my soul, that 1 must (iecline to officiate." His aversion to every f( rm of what is called patronage of literature was part of the same feeling. A few month.s earlier he had received an application for support to such a scheme from a person assuming a title to which he had no pretension, but which appeared to sanction the request. "I beg to be excused," was his reply, "from complying with the request you do me the honour to prefer, simply because I hold the opinion that there is a great deal too much patronage in England. The better the design, the less (as I think) should it seek such adventitious aid, and the more composedly should it rest on its own merits." This was the belief Southey held; it extended to the support by way of patronage given by such societies as the Literary Fund, which Southey also strongly resisted; and it survived the failure of the Guild whereby it was hoped to establish a system of self- help, under which men engaged in literary pursuits might l>e as proud to receive as to give. Though there was no project of his life into which he flung himself with greater eagerness than the Guild, it was not taken up by the class it was meant to benefit, and every renewed exertion more largely added to the failure. There is no room in these pages for th( story, which will add its chapter some day to the vanity of human wishes; but a passage from a letter to Bulwer Lytton at its outset will be some measure of the height from which the writer fell, when all hope for what he had so set his heart upon ceased. "I do, devoutly believe that this plan carried by the support which 1 trust will be given to it, will change the status of the literary man in England, and make a revolution in his position which no government, no p Dwer on earth but his own, could ever effect. I have implicit con- fidence in the scheme — so splendidly begun — if we carry it out with a steadfast energy. 1 have a strong conviction that we hold in our hands the peace and honour of men of letters for centuries to come, and that you are destined to be their best and most enduring bene- factor. . . . Oh what a procession of new years may walk out of all this for the class we belong to, after we are dust." These views about patronage did not make him more indulgent to the clamour with which it is so often invoked for the ridiculously small. "You read that life of Clare?" he wrote (15 August, 1865). "Did you ever see such preposterous exaggeration of small claims? And isn't it expressive, the perpetual prating of him in the book as the Poet? So another Incompetent used to write to the ll-iterary Fund when I was on the committee: 'This leaves the Poet at his divine mission in a corner of the single room. The Poet's father is wiping his spectacles. The Poet's mother is weaving.' — Yah!" . . . Of his ordinary habits of activity I have sp«.,.:en, and they were doubtless carried too far. In youth it was all well, but he did not make allowance for years. This has had abundant illustration, but will admit of a few words more. To all men who dc much, rule and order are essential; method in everything was Pickens's peculiarity: IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // "^ 1.0 I.I 1.25 ■ 50 ■^™ ^ 1^ 12.0 M 2.2 18 U 11 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 L1>^ A^ A V \ <h 0" \ .^ '*' «* 656 The Life of Charles Dickens Wb„te /e was among tSt' to"o«e;"totslZ:r: h^'dSS som whired you by the Bell and Horns at Brompton and th^r^ behind Holborn, in Borougl, courts and passages in atvwhfrffnr ^leys about tl>e poorer lodging-houses, in p^oL worichous^ ragged-schools poLce-coarts, rag-shops, chandlers' shops and Ijl Ttirinl SudT '°^ *'^ ^'"^ ^'^"^^ keen cbser^ation^a^d' P^.^r^?w';l:^rot' ^ Tn f^J'°^^l '«"-^- ."^° ""^ F^enc Len,anro got up forTl^^pTrt SVer^'c^^S tStStS ache, tod me m a railway carriage the other day, that we had no ant.qu,hes m heretical England. 'None at all,' I safd ' You hav» ^^e ships, however.'- 'Yes: a few.' 'Are they strong? • ■Well ' said l"'^,^r cw^i,? ?'"*"*'■■ ™/. '"*''"'^= "* the'^ ghost rf Neton • A kTh sS oke Tm^t' him^r?'?*^' "n 'T^^^'y delighted with tht a^tt^a-fh^-^^^^^^^ Of enjoyment his least important little notes are often worS ore^ serving fake one small instance. So freely had he admSd a tafe fold by his tnend and solicitor Mr. Frederic Ouvry that he had to r^n u tea humorous proposal for publication of it.^nhfsovvn manner^ n his own periodical. "Your modesty is equal to your meri? 1 think yoiir way of describing that rustic courtship in Sle 'life quitt matchless. . A cheque for^iooo is lying with the publisher/Wew^ould vil mgly make It more, but that we find our law^charges so exxeed ^^^u^l^' ^'' ^^"^" ^^^« «^«° examples now and^then of what he called his conversational triumphs. "I Lve distinguish^ myS' s, was his njoyment jpensable, sala is an genferous described it inclem- mberwell tnersmith "A ban. md there direction I forth at he York- ;k wall of n Sisters 1, under- i way up e in the jghfares. k streets /harfs or khouses^ and ail ;ion and The Life of Charles Dickens 657 "An old mage of le tooth- had no ve some I, 'your French ith this ! with a Bd as to umour- lis kind th pre- ale told reply iner, in 1 think , quite 3 would Jxceed- f what, lyself" (28 April, 1861) "in two respects lately. I took ayoung lady, unknown, down to dinner, and, talking to her about the Bishop of Durham's Nepotism in the matter of Mr. Cheese, I found she was Mrs. Cheese. And I expatiated to the member for Marylebone, Lord Fermoy, generally conceiving him to be an Irish member, on the contemptible character of the Marylebone constituency and Marylebone repre- sentation." . . . m !!1 BOOK ELEVENTH THE CLCSE 1870. ^T. 58 I. Last Days II. Westminster Abbey 41 659 The si He rec been d trying nation cile th healthi in Sepi Institu as it vi habit ( politic, illimitt with n hardly ment c Hel Londo; Office 1 houses quarte: Johnsc with hi had no in Fun more t and th< den, w; Mr. Fi€ made c mouth as we I Hef Octobe nights taken f even w LAST DAYS 1869-70 The summer and autumn of 1869 were passed quietly at Gadshill. He received there, in June, the American friends to whom he had been most indebted for unwearying domestic kindness at his most trying time in the States. In August, he was at the dinner of the Inter- national boat race; and, in a speech that might have gone far to recon- cile the victors to changing places with the vanquished, gave the healths of the Harvard and the Oxford crews. He went to Birmingham, in September, to fulfil a promise that he would open the session of the Institute; and there, after telling his audience that his invention, such as it was, never would have served him as it had done, but for the habit of commonplace, patient, drudging attention, he declared his political creed to be infinitesimal faith in the people governing and illimitable faith in the People governed. In such engagements as these, with nothing of the kind of strain he had most to dread, there was hardly more movement or change than was necessary to his enjoy- ment of rest. He had been able to show Mr. Fields something of the interest of London as well as of his Kentish home. He went over its General Post Office with him, took him among its cheap theatres and poor lodging- houses, and piloted him by night through its most notorious thieves' quarter. Its localities that are pleasantest to a lover of books, such as Johnson's Bolt Court and Goldsmith's Temple Chambers, he explored with him; and, at his visitor's special request, mounted a staircase he had not ascended for more than thirty years, to show the chamber in Furnival' > Inn where the first page of Pickwick was written. One more book, unfinished, was to close what that famous book began; and the original of the scene of its opening chapter, the opium-eater's den, vyas the last place visited. "In a miserable court at night," says Mr. Fields, "we found a haggard old woman blowing at a kind of pipe made of an old ink-bottle; and the words that Dickens puts into the mouth of this wretched creature in Edwin Drood, we heard her croon as we leaned over the tattered bed in which she was lying." . . . He finished his first number of Edwin Drood in the third week of October, and on the 26th read it at my house with great spirit. A few nights before we had seen together at the Olympic a little drama taken from his Copperfield, which he sat out with more than patience, even with something of enjoyment; and another pleasure was given 661 662 The Life of Charles Dickens him that night by its author. Mr. Halliday, who brought into the bov another dramatist. Mr Robertson, to whom Dickens^ who then first saw him. said that to himself the charm of his little comecHes was their unassummg form." which had so happily shown that ' "eal wif could afford to put off any airs of pretension to it." He was at Gadshq till the close of the year; coming .p for a few special occasions such as Procter's eighty-second birthday; and at my house on New Year's Eve he read to us a fresh number of his Edwin Drood. Yet thise verv last days of December had not been without a reminder of theJave warnings of April. The pains in somewhat modified form had returned m ooth his left hand and his left foot a few days before we met Tid they were troubling him still on that day. But he made so li^h? nf them himself; so little thought of connoting theSwith the un certainties of touch and tread of which they were really part and read with such an overflow of humour Mr. Honeythunder's bSrous philanthropy; that there was no room. then, for anything bSeniov ment. His only allusion to an effect from his illness was hif mentbn o 1 7hT''';'^1^ f'^^'^? ^^^"^ ^^ ^^^ *° ^^il^ay travel. Th s had decided him to take a London house for the twelve last readings ^n ttVnTL^t rHyt Pi^lf &acT^ ''^ ^^^ ^--^ ^^- ^"- gS^ we^rlt^rupV^iXi^lt^^^^ given m each week to the close of January^nd the remainrg erh? on each of the eight Tuesdays following. Nothing was said of a|. Idnd of apprehension as the time approached; but. with a curious absence of the sense of danger, there was certainly both distrust Ld fear Sufficient precaution was supposed to have been taken by arranl: attendant Mr F. C Beard; but this resolved itself, not into anv measure of safety, the case admitting of none short of stopping the readmgaltogether. but simply into ascertainment of the exact amount o strain and pressure, which, with every fresh exertion, he was placing on those vessels of the brain where the Preston trouble Ton surely had revealed that danger lay. No supposed force ?nreser^^^ no dommant strength of will, can turn aside the penalties sternly exacted for disregard of such laws of life as were here plainly overlook and though no one may say that it was not already too late for any but the fatal issue, there will be no presumption in believing that life might been stopped '"""^ ^'""^ prolonged if these readings could hive "I am a little shaken," he wrote on 9 Januaiy. "by my journev to Birmmgnam to give away the Institution's prizes on Twelfth Night ?n"rV T"^' ^ ^^'*: ^"^'."^twithstandingLowe's worryingschlme for collecting a year's taxes in a lump, which they tell me is dimaging books, pictures, music, and theatres beyond precedent, our 'let' at St &'\^ /' enormous." He opened with Copperfield and the Pickwick Trtal- and I may briefly mention, from the notes taken ' oy The Life of Charles Dickens 663 Mr. Beard and placed at my disposal, at what cost of exertion to him- self he gratified the crowded audiences that then and to the close made these evenings memorable. His ordinary pulse on the first night was at 72; but never on any subsequent night was lower than 82, and had risen on the later nights to more than 100. After Copperfield on the first night it went up to 96, and after Marigold on the second to 99; but on the first night of the Sikes and Nancy scenes (Friday, 21 January) it went from 80 to 112, and on the second night (i February) to 118. From this, through the six remaining nights, it ne\-er was lower than no after the first piece read; and after the third and fourth readings of the Oliver Twist scenes it rose, from 90 to 124 on 15 February, and from 94 to 120 on 8 March; on the former occa- sion, after twenty minutes' rest, falling to 98, and on the latter, after fifteen minutes' rest, falling to 82. His ordinary pulse on entering the room, during these last six nights, was more than once over 100, and never lower than 84; from which it rose, after Nickleby on 22 February, to 112. On 8 February, when he read Dombey, it had risen from 91 to 114; on I March, after Copperfield, it rose from 100 to 124; and wher.. he entered the room on the last night it was at 108, having risen only two beats more when the reading was doie. The pieces on this occa- sion were the Christmas Carol, followed by the Pickwick Trial; and probably in all his life he never read so well. On his return from the States, where he had to address his effects to audiences composed of immense numbers of people, a certain loss of refinement had been observable; but the old delicacy was now again delightfully manifest and a subdued tone, as well in the humorous as the serious portions, gave something to all the reading as of a quiet sadness of farewell. The charm of this was at its height when he shut the volume of Pick- wick and spoke in his own person. He said that for fifteen years he had been reading his own books to audiences whose sensitive and kindly recognition of them had given him instruction and enjoyment in his art such as few men could have had; but that he nevertheless thought it well now to retire upon older associations, and in future to devote himself exclusively to the calling which had first made him known. "In but two short weeks frcr^. this time I hope that you may enter, in your own homes, on a new series of readings at which my assistance will be indispensable; but from these garish lights I vanish now for evermore, with a heartfelt, grateful, respectful, affectionate farewell." The brief hush of silence as he moved from the platform; and the prolonged tumult of sound that followed suddenly, stayed him, and again for another moment brought him back; will not be forgotten by any present. Little remains to be told that has not in it almost unmixed pain and sorrow. Hardly a day passed, while the readings went on or after they closed, unvisited by some effect or other of the disastrous excite- ment shown by the notes of Mr. Beard. On 23 January, when for the last time he met Carlyle, he came to us with his left hand in a sling; on f rcuiuai}', wiicii lic paaocU 'viLn da iiiS last Dii Liiutiy, UllU Oil Cne 664 TYke Life of Charles Dickens 25th, when he read the third number of his novel, the hand was still swollen and painful; and on 21 March, when he read admirably hi^; fourth number, he told us that as he came along, walking up the length of Oxford Street, the same incident had recurred as on, the day of a former dinner with us, and he had not been able to read, all the way, more than the right-hand half of the names over the shops Yet he had the old fixed persuasion that this was rather the efiect of a medicine he had been taking than of any grave cause, and he still strongly believed his other troubles to be exclusively local. Eight days later he wrote: "My uneasiness and hemorrhage, after having quite left me, as I supposed, has come back with an aggravated irrit- ability that it has not yet displayed. You have no idea what a state I am m to-day from a sudden violent rush of it; and yet it has not the slightest effect on my general health that I know of." This was a dis- order which troubled him in his earlier life; and during the last five years, in his intervals of suffering from other causes, it had from time to time taken aggravated form. His last public appearances were in April. On the 5th he took the chair for the newsvendors, whom he helped with a genial address in which even his apology for little speaking overflowed with irre- pressible humour. He would try, he said, like Falstaff, "but with a modification almost as large as himself," less to speak himself than to be the cause of speaking in others. "Much in this manner they exhibit at the door of a sn jff-shop the effigy of a Highlander with an empty mull in his hand, who, apparently having taken all the snuff he can carry, and discharged all the sneezes of which he is capable, politely invites his friends and patrons to step in and try what they can do in the same line." On the 30th of the same month he returned thanks for "Literature" at the Royal Academy dinner. ... We met for the iast time on Sunday, 22 May, when I dined with him m Hyde Park Place. The death of Mr. Lemon, of which he heard that day, had led his thoughts to the crowd of friendly companions m letters and art who had so fallen from the ranks since we played Ben Jonson together that we were left almost alone. "And none beyond his sixtieth year," he said, "very few 'even fifty." It is no good to talk of it, I suggested. "We shall not think of it the less," was his reply; and an illustration much to the point was before us, afforded by an mcident deserving remembrance in this story. Not many weeks before, a correspondent had written to him from Liverpool describing himself as a self-raised man, attributing his prosperous career to what Dickens's writings had taught him at its outset of the wisdom of kindness, and sympathy for others; and asking pardon for the liberty he took in hoping that he might be permitted to offer some acknow- ledgment of what not only had cheered and stimulated him through all his life, but had contributed so much to the success of it. The letter enclosed ;^5oo. Dickens was greatly touched by this; and told the writer, in sending back his cheque, that he would certainly have _ taken it if he had not been, though not a man of fortune, a orosnerous ■ I I The Life of Charles Dickens 665 man himself; but that the letter, and the spirit of ita offer, had so gratified hjm, that if the writer pleased to send him any small memorial of it in another form he would gladly receive it. The memorial soon came. A richly worked basket of silver, inscribed "from one who has been cheered and stimulated by Mr. Dickens's writings, and held the author among his first rememorances when he became prosperous," was accompanied by an extremely handsome silver centrepiece for the table, of which the design was four figures representing the Seasons. But the kindly donor shrank from sending Winter to one whom he would fain c^-'.nect with none save the brighter and milder days, and he had struck the fourth figure from the design. "I never look at it," said Dickens, "that I don't think most of the Winter," The gift had yet too surely foreshadowed the truth, for the winter was never to come to him. A matter discussed that day with Mr. Ouvry was briefly resumed in a note of 29 May, the last I ever received from him; which followed me to Exeter, and closed thus. "You and I can speak of it at Gads by and by. Foot no worse. But no better." The old trouble was upon him when we parted, and this must have been nearly the last note written before he quitted IxDndon. He was at Gadshill on 30 May; and I heard no more imtil the telegram reached me at Launceston on the night of 9 June, which told me that the "by and by" was not to come in this world. The few days at Gadshill had been given wholly to work on his novel. He had been easier in his foot and hand; and though he was suffering severely from the local hemorrhage before named, he made no complaint of illness. But thp'-c v s observed in him a very unusual appearance of fatigue. "I d very weary." He was out with his dogs for the last time .- •. 6 June, when he walked with his letters into Rochester 'v the 7th, after his daughter Mary had left on a visit to te, not finding himself equal to much fatigue, he drove . Wood with his sister-in-law, there dismissed the carriage, au^ :d round the park and bad:. He returned in time to put up in his new conservatorv ^onie Chinese lanterns sent from London that afternoon; and the whole of the evening, he sat with Miss Hogarth in the dining-room that he might see their effect when lighted. More than once he then expressed his satisfaction at having finally abandoned all intention of exchanging Gadshill for LondoTi ; and this he had done more impressively some days before. While he lived, he said, he should wish his name to be more and more associated with the place; and he had a notion that when he died he should like to lie in the little graveyard belonging to the Cathedral at the foot of the Castle wall. On 8 June he passed all the day writing in the Chalet. He came over for luncheon; and, much against his usual custom, returned to his desk. In the sentences he was then writing, he imagines such a brilliant rooming as had risen with that 8 June shining on the old city of Rochester. He sees in surpassing beauty, with the lusty ivy 666 The Life of Charles Dickens m gleaming in the sun, and the rich trees v. x ing in the balmy air its antiquities and its ruins; its Cathedral and Castle. But his fancy then, is not with the stern dead forms of either; but with that which makes warm the cold stone tombs of centuries, and lights them up with flecks of brightness, "fluttering there like wings." To him on that sunny summer morning, the changes of glorious light from moving boughs, the songs of birds, the scents from garden, woods and fields, have penetrated into the Cathedral, have subdued its earthy odour, and are preaching the Resurrection and the I-ife. He was late in leaving the Chalet; but before dinner, which was ordered at six o'clock with the intention of walking afterwards in the lanes, he wrote some letters, among them one to his friend Mr Charles Kent appointing to see him in London next day; and dinner was begun before Miss Hogarth saw, with alarm, a singular expres- sion of trouble and pain in his face. "For an hour," he then told her "he had h ^en very ili"; but he wished dinner to go on. The.o were the only really coherent words uttered by him. They were followed by some, that fell from him disconnectedly, of quite other nu.tters; of an approaching sale at a neighbour's house, of whether Macready's son was v/ith his father at Cheltenham, and of his own intention to go immediately to London; but at these latter he had risen, and his sister-in-law's help alone preveited him from falling wher- he stood. Her effort was then to get him on the sofa, but after a slight struggle he sank heavily on his left side. "On the ground" were the last words he spoke. It was now a little over ten minutes past six o'clock. His two daughters came that night v/ith Mr. F. Beard, who had also been telegraphed for, and whom they met at the station. His eldest son arrived early next morning, and .^^as joined in the evening (too late) by his younger son from Cambridge. All possible medical aid had been summoned. The surgeon of the neighbourhood was there from the first, and a physician from London was in attendance as well as Mr. Beard. But human help was unavailing. There was effusion on the brain; and though stertorous breathing continued all night, and until ten minutes past 'six o'clock on the evening of Thursday, 9 June, there had never been a gleam of hope during the twenty-four hours. He had lived four months beyond his 58th year. 'X1 h The Life of Charles Dick' 667 n WEETMINSTER ADOEY 1S70 The excitement and sorrow at his death are within the mcmorv of all. Before the news of it even reached the remoter parts of England, it '^d been flashed across Europe; was known in the distant con- tinents of India, Australia, and America; and not in English-speaking communities only, but in every country of the civilis'^d earth, had awakened grief and sympathy. In his own land it was as if a personal bereavement had befallen everyone. Her Majesty the Queen tele- graphed 'rom Balmoral "her deepest regret at the sad news of Charles Dickens's death"; and this was the sentiment alike of all classes of her people. There was not an Fr„''^h journal that did not give it touching and noble utterance; ano 2V*e. Times took the lead in suggesting that the only fit resting-place ior the remains of a man so dear to England was the Abbey in which the most illustrious English- men are laid. With the expression thus given to a general wish, the Dean of Westminster lost no t ne in showing ready compliance; and on the morning of the day when it appeared was in communication with the family and the executors. The public homage of a burial in the Abbey had to be reconciled with his own instructions to be privately buried without previous announcement of time or place, and without monument or memorial. He would himself have preferred to lie in the sma'l graveyard under Rochester Castle wall, or in the little churches of Cobham or Shornc; but all these were found to be closed; and the desire of the Dean and Chapter of Rochester to lay him in their Cathedral had been entertained, when the Dean of Westminster's request, and the considerate kindness of his generous assurance that there should be only such ceremonial as would strictly obey all injunctions of privacy, made it a grateful duty to accept that offer. The spot already had been chosen by the Dean; and before midday on the followhig morning, Tuesday, 14 June, with knowledge of those only who took part in the buiial, all was done. The solemnity had not lost by the simplicity. Nothing so grand or so touching could have accompanied it, as the stillness and the silence of the vast cathedral. Then, later in the day and all the following day, erne • nbidd^ti mourners in such crowds, that the Dean had to request permission to keep open the grave until Thursday; but after it was closed they did not cease to come, and "all day long," Doctor Stanley wrote on the 17th, "there was a constant pressure to the spot, and many flowers were strewn upon it by unknown hands, xnany tears shed from un- 668 The Life of Charles Dickens known eyes." He alluded to this in the impressive funeral discourse dehvered by him m the Abbey on the morning of Sunday the ?qth pointing to the fresh flowers that then had been newlv thiowMas they still are thrown in this fourth year after the death), and ryi^"' M Sxr^^ii^'^^.T"^'^ thenceforward be a sacred one with both thf ^n^J^u-^ ^f *^ T' "-' *^^* °^ '^' representative of the literature not of this island only, bu ■ of all who speak our English tongue '' The stone placed upon it is inscribed ^ Charles Dickens Born February the Seventh, 1812 Died June the Ninth, 1870 The highest associations of both the arts he loved surround him where he lies. Next to him is Richard Cumberland. Mrs Pr ? f. mvxn r?.""'^''.* looks down upon him, and immediately behind IS David Garrick's. Nor is the actor's delightful art more worthilv represented than the nobler genius of the author. Facing the^avl and on its left a^d right, are the monuments of Chaucer sSS' SPEARE and Dryden. the three immortals who did most to cr'eate and undyU n^mT'"' '" "'^'' ''"^^^"^ ^^^^^^^ ^^« ^-- -' "er "44 APPENDIX THE WILL OF CHARLES DICKENS "I, Charles Dickens, of Gadshill Place, Higham in the county of Kent, hereby revoke all my former Wills and Codicils and declare this to be my last Will and Testament. I give 'he sum of ;^iooo free of legacy duty to Miss Ellen Lawless Ternan, late of Houghton Place, Ampthill Square, in the county of Middlesex. I give the sum of ;^I9 19 o to my faithful servant Mrs. Anne Cornelius. I give the sum of ;^i9 19 o to the daughter and only child of the said Mrs. Anne Cornelius. I give the sum of ;^i9 19 o to each and every domestic servant, male and female, who shall be in my employment at the time of my decease, and shall have been in my employment for a not less period of time than one year. I give the sum of ;^iooo free of legacy duty to my daughter Mary Dickens. I also give to my said daughter an annuity of ;^3oo a year, during her life, if she shall so long continue unmarried; such annuity to be considered as accruing from day to day, but to be payable half-yearly, the first of such half- yearly payments to be made at the expiration of six months next after my decease. If my said daughter Mary shall marry, such annuity shall cease; and in that case, but in that case only, my said daughter shall share with my other children in the provision hereinafter made for them. I give to my dear sister-in-law Georgina Hogarth the sum of ;^8ooo free of legacy duty. I also give to the said Georgina Hogarth all my personal jewellery not hereinafter mentioned, and all the little familiar objects from my writing-table and my room, and she will know what to do with those things. I also give to the said Georgina Hogarth all my private papers whatsoever and wheresoever, and I leave her my grateful blessing as the best and truest friend man ever had. I give to my eldest son Charles my library of printed books, and my engravings and prints; and I also give to my son Charles the silver salver presented to me at Birmingham, and the silver cup presented to me at Edinburgh, and my shirt studs, shirt pins, and sleeve buttons. And I bequeath unto my said son Charles and my son Henry Fielding Dickens, the sum of ;^8ooo upon trust to invest the same, and from time to time to vary the investments thereof, and to pay the annual income thereof to my wife during her life, and after her decease the said sum of ;^8ooo and the investments thereof shall be in trust for my children (but subject as to my daughter Mary to the proviso hereinbefore contained) who being a son or sons shall have attained or shall attain the age of twenty-one years, or being a rlqiirrli+pr r\v rl o n orh for c oVl'^lI Tioxria q<-foir>p#1 <-»f oVi^ill n4-4'r,^.-. 4.V.^J. - ~i» 669 fiH ^70 Appendix '''' ^^Ff^u'''''fI "*^ied, in equal shares if more than one. I give mv wateh (the gold repeater presented to me at Coventry), and I give The chains and seals and all appendages I have worn with it, to my dear and trusty fnend John Forster, of Palace Gate House. Kensin^on ^ the county of Middlesex aforesaid; and I also give to the said John Forster such manuscripts of my published works as may be in mv possession at the time of my decease. And I devise and bequea^J all my real and personal estate (except such as is vested in me as " Toh%or.Srfh^''^.""*^ *^" '^^ ^"^^^^"^ «°g^^th ^^ the said ii^^.? ? ' ^^^1 ^^'''\ executors, administrators, and assigns respectively, upon trust that they the said Georgina Hogarth and John Forster. or the survivor of them or the executors o7aSistra tors of such survivor, do and shall, at their, his. or her uncontrolled and irresponsible direction, either proceed to an immediate sa?e or conversion into money of the said real ^nd personal estate (including ^L^^^ ,?^*1' ?^ ^^^^' .^"^ postpone any sale or conversion Tto rthT^^'ilnf • ^ *'""" °' *'™'' ^' ^^'y' ^'' ^^ '^^ «^^» think fit. and in the meant me may manage and let the said real and personal estate (including my copyrights), in such manner in all respects as I myself could do if I were living and acting therein; it befn ' my fn tention that the trustees or trustee for the time being of this mv WUl shall have the fullest power over the said real andVersonafLSe which I can give to them. him. or her. And I DECLAREVat? unS the said real and personal estate shall be sold and converted inio money the rents and annual income thereof respectively shall be Daid and applied to the person or persons in the manner and for the purposes fm^ .r ^^"^ ^°' ^^^'^- *^" ^"^"^^^ i"^°"^« °f the monies^toS froni the sale or conversion thereof into money would be oavable nr applicable under this my Will in case the same Lre soldVcon^^^^^^^ into money^ And I declare that my real estate shall for the purp?^^^^ of this my Will be considered as converted into personalty upon my decease. And I declare that the said trustees or trustee forX time th^^'ht n^A'^f ' Z''^ ^''? °"' ^^ *^« "^°"i^« ^hi^^h shall comedo IrZ' ^i ' .^"^ ^^''^^' ""^^^ °^ ^y ^i^tue of this my Will and the trusts thereof pay my just debts, funeral and testamentary expenses fhlnf '''1; n^^ ^ ''^''Y^'' *^^* *^^ «^id trust funds?r so much thereof as shall remain after answering the purposes aforesaid ar" the annual income thereof, shall be in trust for all my S?en (but ?±S Vr^^ ^^"^^*^^ ^^^^ *^ *h« P^°^i«° herdnblre con- the a^e oTtl^/"^ ^ '°" °' '^""'^^.^^^ ^^^^ attained or shall attain havelttpinL *r°>f l^'ff' ^"? ^'^"^ ^ daughter or daughters shall have attained or shall attain that age or be previously married in equal shares if more than one. Provided always, that as regards my copyrights and the produce and profits thereof, my Sd daS rSncTto'h.^'^"^^^^ '^' ?.r ^'^^ hereinbefore c'^SLInedTith she I^^Vr^i!^' '^^1 \hare with my other children therein whether she be married or not. And I devise the estates vested in ine at my mongagee unto the use of the said Georgina decease 13 a LX usicc ur Appendix 671 Hogarth and John Forster, their heirs and assigns, upon the trusts and subject to the equities affecting the same respectively. And I APPOINT the said Georgina Hogarth and John Forster executrix and executor of this my Will, and Guardians of the persons of my children during their respective minorities. And lastly, as I have now set down the form of words which my legal advisers assure me are necessary to the plain objects of this my Will, I solemnly enjoin my dear children always to remember how much they owe to the said Georgina Hogarth, and never to b*" wanting in a grateful and affectionate attachment to her, for they .aiow well that she has been, through all the stages of their growth and progress, their ever useful self-denying and devoted friend. And I desire here simply to record the fact that my wife, since our sepaiation by consent, has been in the receipt from me of an annual income of ;^6oo, while all the great charges of a numerous and expensive family have devolved wholly upon myself. I emphatically direct that I be buried in an inexpensive, unostentatious, and strictly private manner; that no public announce- ment be made of the time or place of my burial; that at the utmost not more than three plain mourning coaches be employed; and that those who attend my funeral wear no scarf, cloak, black bow, long hat-band, or other such revolting absurdity. I direct that my name be inscribed in plain English letters on my tomb, without the addition of 'Mr.' or 'Esquire.' I conjure niy friends on no account to make me the subject of any monument, memorial, or testimonial whatever. I rest my claims to the remembrance of my country upon my pub- lished works, and to the remembrance of my friends upon their experience of me in addition thereto. I commit my soul to the mercy of God through our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ, and I exhort my dear children humbly to try to guide themselves by the teaching of the New Testament in its broad spirit, and to put no faith in any man's narrow construction of its letter here or there. In witness whereof I the said Charles Dickens, the testator, have to this my last Will and Testament set my hand this 12th day of May in the year of our Lord 1869. "Charles Dickens. "Signed published and declared by the^ above-named Charles Dickens the testator as and for his last Will and Testament in the presence of us (present together at the same time) who in his presence at his request and in the presence of each other have hereunto subscribed our names as witnesses. "G. Holsworth, "26 Wellington Street, Strand. "Henry Walker. "26 Wellington Street, Strand. I 672 Appendix "I, Charles Dickens of Gadshill Place near Rochester in the county of Kent Esquire declare this to be a Codicil to my last Will and Testament which Will bears date the 12th day of May 1869. I GIVE to my son Charles Dickens the younger all my share and interest in the weekly journal called All the Year Round, which is now conducted under Articles of Partnership made between me and William Henry Wills and the said Charles Dickens the younger, and all my share and interest in the stereotypes stock and other effects belonging to the said partnership, he defraying my share of all debts and liabilities of the said partnership which may be outstanding at the time of my decease, and in all other respects I confirm my said Will, In witness whereof I have hereimto set my hand the 2nd day of June in the year of our Lord 1870. "Charles Dickens. "Signed and declared by the said Charles' Dickens, the testator as and for a Codicil to his Will in the presence of us present at the same time who at his request in his presence and in the presence of each other hereunto subscribe our naiiies as witnesses. "G. liOLSWORTH, "26 Wellington Street, Strand. "H. V/ALKER, "26 Wellington Street, Strand." The real and personal estate — taking the property bequeathed by the last codicil at a valuation of something less than two years' purchase; and of course before payment of the legacies, the (incon- siderable) debts, and the testamentary and other expenses,— amounted as nearly as may be calculated, to ;^93,oco. 1 Made and Printed in Great Britain by Hazell, Watson tS- Viney, Ltd., London and Aylesbury iter in the y last Will May 1869. share and i, which is «n me and unger, and :her effects )f all debts tanding at m my said le 2nd day >ICKENS. eathed by wo years' he (incon- tpenses, — 1