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Glacial and Post-Glacial Phenomena. ri-J ' ^y Thomas Belt, F.G.S. . ., ^HE glacial phenomena of the distridl of Niagara have ^2b' been so often described, and the cause of, and the ^ tfme occupied in, the excavation of the nver gorge, so often discussed, that I did not «P«<^' 7^.?"' °" ^i^"'*'. mas-dav. I made my first visit to the great falls, to have any- Sine new to record, but went quite prepared to acquiesce S the conclusion thkt has been received for more than hirty years, that the whole of the gorge from Queens own to the falls has been excavated since the glacial period. Since hi^ theory was first advanced, man> geologists have visvted the district, and, so far as I can learn, no one has called in nuestion this verdiift ; it has been accepted aa an esta- blished faft and various calculations of the time necessary to excavate the gorge have beer made, throwing back the occurrence of the glacial period from 30.000 to 300.000 ^'?rwas°with great surprise, therefore, that I found that ^at first Tght this'conclu^on was not e-dent, and that on further examination, it was not tenable. I feel that in having to oppose the theory that the gorge o Niagara has beJi fxcavated since the glacial period, I shall be adding another scientific heresy to the many that are recorded aganst me but the heresies of to-day are the truths of Sorrow, and I shall at least give my reasons for believing thaTriy explanation of the proble©,ought to be classed m the latter, and not in the former category. The question of the excavation of thefrge cannot be clearlv understood without some knowledge of the glacial depoS^s, and I shall in the first place describe the glac.al and afterwards the post-glacial phenomena. So many authors have written on thl subjeft, that I sha 1 only men- J^on those from whose works I have obtained inform^ation of VOL. V. (N.S.) ,r^ Niagara. re importance. Foremust in the list stand the names of Sir Charles Lyell and Professor James Hall, who visited the district together in 1841, and who afterwards published the conclusions, that they appear to have arrived at to^^ether. Sir Charles Lyell, in the " Proceedings of the Geological Society of London " for 1842 and 1843, and more fully in his " Travels in North America," where there is an excellent coloured bird's-eye view of the falls of Niagara and adjacent country, and also a geological map of the distria, in which the reader who has not visited Ni.Hgara may correct the false impression he is likely to obtain, from the necessary foreshortening in the bird's-eye view, of the small distance between the falls and the whirlpool, which are, in reality, four miles apart. Professor James Hall published nearly identical opinions in the " Boston Journal of Natural History" for 1843-44, and more fully in the "Geology of New York," Part IV., in 1843. The latter work contains not only a bird's-eye view of the distrift, but an excellent map of the falls, construQed from a trigonometrical survey made in 1841, by Mr. Bakewell : afterwards in 1842, correfted by Professor Hall and two engineers. The whole of Professor Hall's observations on the glacial phenomena of the State of New York should be read by those interested in the study of the glacial period. They abound in original remarks, and in clear descriptions of the succession of the superficial deposits, and many of the conclusions at which this eminent state geologist arrived more than thirty years ago are only now receiving in England the attention they deserve. Professor Hall also describes other rivers running into Lake Ontario from the south, which, like Niagara, have had their pre-glacial channels filled up, and have since taken a more westerly course to the lake. In 1859, Professor Ramsay published, in the " Quarterly Journal of the Geological Society," his observations on the glacial phenomena of Canada, made during a trip to that country in the preceding year. In this memoir he pointed out, I believe for the first time, that the river must have commenced to cut back the gorge at Queenstown, before the close of the glacial period. To Dr. Newberry., the accomplished chief of the Geological Survey of Ohio, I am greatly indebted, not only for much personal kindness and assistance, but for an early copy of his " Surface Geology," to be published in the forthcoming ■ volume on the "Geology of Ohio," fromwhich I have obtained a vast amount of information respefting the glacial deposits of the distria of the great lakes. A very large amount of :m -:m '^ima.i^ >v ♦4 s of Sir ited the ,hed the o^^ether. :ologicaI ly in his jxcellent adjacent distri(5t, ira may from the he small h are, in lublished [Natural y of New ains not lent map rey made correiSled whole of enomena nterested 1 original )n of the at which years ago y deserve, into Lake had their ;n a more Quarterly )ns on the p to that le pointed nust have before the aeological for much •ly copy of rlhcoming ^e obtained al deposits amount of information is contained in the well-known works of Prof. Dana, not only in his admirable " Manual of Geology," but in various memoirs, amongst which 1 may especially mention his " Geology of the Newhaven Region," published m the " Transactions of the Conneaicut Academy" in 1870. I may mention, that with the exception of Dr. Dawson, of Montreal, the whole of the most eminent of the geologists of eastern North America are now agreed that the prin- cipal gluciation of America was effefted by land-ice, though there is abundant proofs, as I shall have occasion to show in this paper, that at a later stage, boulders were scattered over the country by floating icebergs. That later stage of floating ice was due, however, I contend, both in America and Europe, not to a submergence of the land below the ocean, but to the produaion of immense lakes of fresh water, by the damming up of the drainage of the continents by ice that flowed principally down the ocean depressions. In this conclusion, I have as yet no supporters amongst the geologists, either of America or Europe, if, indeed, I may not except Professor Hall, who informed me, in conversation, and authorised me to pubhsh his opinion that the sea has never encroached on south- eastern New England since the deposition of the " till," and that the terraces of the Hudson and Connedticut were pro- duced by the blockage of their waters by ice that flowed down the ocean bed, and of the presence of which we have proof in the immense moraines that compose the whole of Cape Cod. Glacial Phenomena. The rocks through which the gorge of Niagara is cut are limestones, sandstones, and shales. These rocks are all rounded and smoothed, and the limestones are frequently scratched and grooved. Besides the coarser ice marking, the rounded and smoothed surfaces of rock, when examined closely, exhibit innumerable fine scratches, which have been ascribed by Hall to small particles of sand imbedded in the ice that moulded the rocks, and he has shown the improba- bility that this moulding and fine scratching, which is uni- versal over the whole northern part of the State of New York, wherever the rocks are of sufficient hardness to re- ceive and retain striae, could have been eff^efted by icebergs. Lying on these glaciated rocks are superficial deposits of drift, containing beds of unstratified clay, with boulders, sands, and loam. These are spread over the whole distndl like a mantle, so that natural exposures of the bed rock are rare, excepting in the gorges cut by the river. The cliffs bordering the Rorge, from the falls lo Queens- town, are everywhere capped by these deposits ; one of the mos interesting and instrud^.ive seClions of which is exposed TtUie whirlpool, four miles below the falls, -t the end oj the filled-up pre-glacial gorge that runs down to St. David s. The snowing seaion exhibits the succession of deposits that fill the old gorge :— Seftion through the old gorge at the whirlpool, along the line A b in Plan, Fig. 3. The lowest bed seen by me at the seftion is. that marked A, which consists of clean yellow river sand with occasional s;ams and rolled lu-ps of clay Below these fn^^^^^^^^^^^ were exposed, when Lyell described the beds.* strata ot pebbles, cemented together by carbonate «/ l''^^' °^j;^y'"f laminated clays. I saw one large mass of the pebbly con- gZerates lying on the beach, and have shown its posit on fi The seaion underlying A, but I have not inserted the aminated beds mentioned by Lyell. as some that I saw low down in the gorge had evidently slipped Jown from A and B, the whole face of the unconsolidated materials fill ng the gorge, showing many slips produced by ram and rost The bed of laminated sands (a in seaion) graduates up- wards into fine laminated silt (b in seaion). the powder of * Travel* in North America, vol. ii. p. 95' % rf««B!M*^-' ■ - ■ h [Jueens- s of the exposed d of the David's, deposits .CZl 1, Fig. 3. it marked )Ccasional inds there strata of overlying ebbly con- ts position sorted the iiat I saw wn from A •ials filling ind frost, duates up- powdcr of ff*A. ^\^^ which is almost impalpable when rubbed between the fingers H ghe upthis silt is unlaminated, and contains a few small fnlular stones. It gradually changes upwards into c, which L f true 'Wt7//' or - gmnd morane.r rr-aming large angu- lar and suba^gular stones. mP ly or great s.^e. scratched and Krooved. All the blocks imbecMed in the clay are of ?he local limestones. A few rounded boulders, of northern or'g n' ie on the surface slope, but they have evidently rolfed down from above. The higher part of c contams fewer and fewer stones, until it merges into D, which s composed of unstratified clay or 'W»7/." without stones. Of this there is from twenty to thirty ^^et >n thickness the upper part being more sandy than the lower, and some^fmes obscurely stratified. On the surface are a few rndd boulders of granite or gneiss, all far travelled from the north, and it is noticeable, that whilst the angular blocks in the " till" are all of local origin, those lying on U.e surface are almost, if not quite, always of dis ant deri- vation, and are invariably rounded or subangu ar ho e seen on the surface, near the whnlpoo , were all of gramie o' gneiss. The continuation of the till c and D in seftion is shown in some small valleys that run into the gorge at the whirlpool. Fig Z i« .,...„ »l,i. ffrree at the whirlpool, c, till with itonei; D, till Here the till (c and d in se(5tioL lies upon the rounded and smoothed surface of the limestone. 3omeof the blocks of lime- sSne at th?s point are of great size ; one I "^^^^f^^^^ was 9 feet by 6 feet its thickness not seen, as it was half buried in the ground On the opposite side of the river, and about a mi e distant from it, I saw exaftly the same succession of beds exposed inThe cutting of the railway, half way between the railway bridge and L^wiston. The northern end of the old fiUed-up gorie at St. David's shows a similar succession of beds with the addition, that on mounting the plateau trom the lower one of the lake of Ontario, I found, exposed in E« ir^an 5 Niagara. railway cuttings, that the till without stones was capped by stratified beds of clay and sand, with u few lines of small pebbles. The above seaions may be taken as typical ones ot the superficial beds that mantle the whole of the northern part of the States of New York and Ohio, and much of Canada, and I proceed to show that they are exactly what would he produced by the accumulation of a great mass of ice m tne north, that graduail 7 progressed southward, and that after- wards melted back again as gradually as it had ad- vanced. . • , 1 1. Let us carry ourselves, in miasmation, back to the pre- glacial times, when the old river ran through the filled-up gorge from the whirlpool to St. David's, and try to follow the successive steps by which it was filled up, and ulti- mately completely obliterated, or rather concealed. Let us bear in mind that the Niagara runs northward, in the di- reaion from whence the ice came. Hall, Dana, Newberry, Lyell, and Ramsay, have all pointed out both from the scratchings of the rocks and from the transported blocks m the till, that the movement of the ice was from the north. It has also been clearly shown that the ice flowed up the St. Lawrence valley, from the north-east. It advanced up the slope of that great valley principally by the overflow o'' the higher parts of the ice over the lower. That there was some movement of the lower part of the ice from the pres- sure from the north is, however, sufficiently proved by the diff'erent formations that crop out from east to west, having furnished stones to the till that covers the rocks immediately to the south of them. Thus, according to Hall, huge blocks of Medina sandstone are moved southward unto the top ot the Niagara limestone. In If.:; manner, numerous masses of the Niagara limestone are drifted forward unto the Onon- dago salt group, and still further south, on the Chemung limestone, lie great numbers of immense blocks from the Onondago salt group to the north. The size of these f f-j- ments bears a proportion to the distance they have been transported from the parent block, the largest being nearest to it. This is charafteristic only of the till, and not to the northern boulders that are strewn over the surface, and which have not been transported from their distant northern homes by land ice. The immediate effeft of the ice, as soon as it had dammed up the mouth of the valley of the St. Lawrence, must have been to form a great fresh water lake in front of it, on which it was constantly advancing. When, after filling the basin »%: tfJ| l^ ) Hrt\riMU ' g « iMWW ' "'' ' ^ * *^^ **' '" apped by of small es of the riern part Canada, would be ice in the lat after- had ad- the pre- filled-up to follow and ulti- . Let us n the di- ^ewberry, from the blocks in the north, ed up the 'anced up verflow o'" there was , the pres- ed by the St, having imediately age blocks the top of us masses the Onon- Chemung from the these f f^- have been ng nearest not to the rface, and it northern id dammed must have t, on which : the basin Niagara. . 7 of the Lake of Ontario, it had, in its progress south-west- ward, reached the base of the cliffs of the Queenstown escarpment, or had dammed back the water to that level, the commencement of the filling up of the old Niagara gorge was at hand, and from that time, during the advance of the ice and its subsequent retreat, the deposits of sand, till, and boulders shown in the seftions were made. The first step was the partial arrest of the flow of the old river, causing it to deposit at a higher level than its original bed, first pebbles forming the conglomerate at the base of the seaion in fig. i, and then the thick bed of river sand, when the current was still more impeded. The bed of fine silt (b in fig. i) marks the time when the flow of water to the north-=!asL was completely stopped. Dr. Newberry, several years ago, first drew attention to the fadl, that at some time during the glacial period, all the great lakes of North America drained towards the Ohio and the Mississippi, and since then, several deep channels by which they did so have been described. I did not see this fine bed of silt m any of the other sec- tions I examined, and I think its preservation in the one at the whiripool must have been entirely due to the protedlion the neariy perpendicular walls of the gorge afforded agamst the great pressure of ths ice that passed over it. Its upper portion contains small angular stones, and it gradually merges into the unstratified till, containing large angular blocks. r , • .-11 It is probable that, during the advance of the ice, no till or grund morane was formed below it, but that the smooth- in"- and scratching of the surfaces of the solid rocks were then effefted, and that the till was deposited beneath the ice when it was melting back, and its pressure being gra- dually lessened. Mr. Bonney has objefted to the theory of both vhe erosion of rock surfaces and the deposition of till having taken place below the ice.* But the two actions belong to different times ; the one was accomplished during the ad- vance, the other during the retr-.at of the ice. The effefts are similar to those of a mountain torrent, which, when full, carries all before it, but which, when its waters lessen, deposits stones and mud in its course. During the advance of the ice, there could be- little deposition below it, all the stones held at the bottom of the moving mass being pro- bably ground to powder ; but, as it melted back, the stones and clay held within ^t would be deposited at its foot. • Nature, x-oLx., p. 85. 5 -Jj .1 I . L 8 Niagara. Dana, in an excellent paper on the Glacial Era in Nsw England, has ably iirgued this question, and has shown the enormous power that moving ice, 6000 feet thick, with a pressure of at least 300,000 pounds to the square foot, would have in abrading the rock surfaces below it, and carrying forward in its lower part the loose material it had broken off or caught up from the rocks below, and how the whole of this would be deposited at tho melting of the ice * It would greatly conduce to clear descriptions of glacial phe- nomena, if the old term " till " were confined to this deposit. It is the "Erie clay" of Dr. Newberry, the "Lower Boulder clay " of Wood, the " grund morane " and the " moraine profonde " of others. " Erie clay " is a local name, and includes stratified beds of a different origin. " Boulder clay "' is often a misnomer, as frequently this clay contains no Doulders. "Grund morane" d^nA. " n:oraine profonde " indicate a particular mode of origin, which, though probably corredt, is still theoretical. " Tiii "' is an old English word, long applied to this deposit, and may be used by every one, whatever theory of origin they may favour. I suggest, (heretore, that it should be confined to designate the unstratified clay with angular blocks, gene- rally of local origin, that lies at the bottom of all the glacial beds, and that the term " boulder clay " should be applied to the higher beds, which show the adtion of water as well as of ice. The term " drift " might be applied to any glacial deposit the nature and origin of which is doubtful, in the same way as the name " trap " is used for many igneous rocks of unascertained composition. The preservation in the St. Lawrence valley, and in the Great Lake distridl, of beds of loose laminated sands and clays lying below the till is due, as has been shown by Dr. Newberry, to the fadt, that the ice was rising against the slope of the land. It had, in consequence, little erosive power, but advanced principally by the slipping of the "higher portions of the ice over the lower. When it topped the southern water-shed of the valley of the St. Lawrence, its adlion produced a different set of phenomena, for its motion was down the slope of the land, and its erosive power was vastly increased. With this subjedl I shall not here deal, nor shall I attempt to trace the limits of the ice in its greatest extension, as that would lead me into a dis- sertation on the whole of the glacial period in North America, far beyond the scope of this paper. • American Journal of Science and Arts, vol. v., March, 1873. . jjimj i m i wamam tsmm» snr in N2W own the , with a »t, would carrying 1 broken le whole ice * It ;ial phe- deposit. " Lower and the a local t origin, ntly this ■' rr.oraine , which, ii " IS an [ may be hey may )(ihned to ;ks, gene- be glacial ipplied to well as of ly glacial ;ul, in the y igneous nd in the sands and ivn by Dr. 3jainst the ;le erosive ig of the 1 it topped Lawrence, la, for its its erosive shall not i of the ice nto a dis- in North 1873. : i 'i k' 1/^: Niagara. 9 As the ice melted back, it deposited the unstratified till under its receding foot, leaving a continuous mantle of it behind. Lying on the top of the till are seen scattered rounded boulders (E in seaion), often of great size, of gra- nite, gneiss, and other crystalline rocks, that must have tra- velled from the Lawrentian hills in the far north. Amongst these, rocks of local origin are as scarce as in the till below those of distant derivation are rare. These foreign boulders are scattered over the surface, as if dropped by some agent that has left no other record of its movements. The rounded far-travelled blocks lie on soft unconsolidated beds that have not been disturbed. In some places, as on the top of a low hill on the Canadian side of the falls, I found great numbers of these blocks, and in some parts of northern New England and New York, great trains are found in lines along the sides of hills, as if stranded on a beach. They are found on the western prairies, according to Professor Hall, in long trains, '' where, for many miles, the difference in elevation is not more than 50 feet ; and here we observe long lines of boulders stretching away for miles beyond the reach of vision, as if once formerly a line of coast."* Speakmg of the valley of the Hudson, Professor Hall says:— "In the vicinity of Albany and Troy, I have searched in vain for a boulder or pebble of granite, or of any rock older than the Potsdam sandstones in the deposits below the clay, while, in a period subsequent to the deposition of the clays and sands, boulders of granite are by no means rare."t Only one satisfadlory explanation has been given of the presence of these far-travelled blocks on the surface of the undisturbed loose beds of sand and clay, namely, that they hr.ve been dropped from floating ice, and most writers on the subjea have concluded that they are proofs of the submer- gence of the land below the sea. There is certainly an area of land running from Lake Champlain northv/ards that has been elevated from below the level of the ocean since the glacial period, but there is no ' evidence whatever that the sea extended over the plateau of Lake Erie, and the entire absence of marine remains renders the supposition un- tenable. And if we follow the natural setiuence of events *hat must have ensued during the retreat of t'.ie ice, we shall see that there is no occasion to call in the agency of the sea. Foi just as, during its advance, the ice from the north-east had blocked n^, the great valley of the St. • Natural History of New York, part iv., p. 321. f Ibid., p 320. VOL. V. (n.S.) "^ :i 1 10 Niagara. been depressed, and dammed back by the Lawrence, being still ward and northward. Lawrence and changed it into an immense lake, so, during its retreat, it must have done the same. Probably it did so to a greater extent, not only because, in its retirement, it had left moraines and deposits of till, blocking up the deep chan- nels draining into the Ohio and the Mississippi, but because, during the greatest accumulation of ice, the land north- wards, and especially the area of the St. Lawrence, had an immense sheet of fresh water, lower part of the valley of the St. filled with ice, stretched south-west- On the northern shores of this great lake glaciers still came down from the Lawrentian hills, and gave birth to icebergs that floated southward, dropping boulders of granite, gneiss, and other crystalline rocks, on the bed of the lake, or stranding on its shores, and there de- positing their freight. During this time were also formed many stratified beds of sand and gravel that lie above the till, and to it belong most of the deposits of the " terrace epoch " of Dana which were formed, not after, but during the glacial period. Before leaving this branch of my subjedl, I must again advert, as I have done in previous papers, to the great im- portance of a proper appreciation of the effedt of the stop- page of the drainage of the norther*! parts of the continents during the glacial period. It was not only a period of erosion and transportation of rocks, but of great fresh water deposits ; and I fully believe that the fresh-v/ater and inland sea beds that Professor Ramsay proves to have been de- po>..ited in old red sandstone and Permian times were due to former glacial periods, that of the Permian epoch being greater than the last one, and resulting in such a lowering of the level of the ocean, that there was great destruiftion of marine life by the increased salinity of the sea. There are many proofs that the ice was thickest and highest during the glacial period in the bed of the Atlantic. That which advanced up the valley of the St. Lawrence cam*' :"rom the diredtion of Greenland, and the whole of the eastern coast of America, down as far south as New York, must have been blocked up by it. This is proved, not only by the many fresh-water beds and terraces due to ihe dam- ming back of the rivers, but by the direftion taken by the continental ice. Thus, over the higher summits of New England, the scratches point to the south-east and not to the east, as they would have done if the ice had been free to move diredlly towards the ocean. I think that this shows that the bed of the ocean was then occupied by ice. J.. uring its d so to a t, it had ep chan- because, d north- nce, had h water, F the St. uth-west- ;his great ian hills, dropping rocks, on there de- 10 formed ibove the " terrace it during ust again great im- the stop- :ontinents period of esh water md inland been de- cre due to och being L lowering trudtion of ickest and e Atlantic. Lawrence hole of the New York, d, not only the dam- ken by the ts of New and not to 1 been free that this ied by ice, w^^Z^,^ Niagara. zx and it could not fail to be so, for to the land it occupied the posi'cion of a great valley, down which the ice from the north wjuld naturally flow. I do not think however that the time of the greatest extent of ice m the sea-bed was the came as that of the greatest thickness of ice on the land ; for, as the margin of the ice of the ocean-bed moved south- ward, it would cut off the moisture-bearing currents tra- velliiig towards the land, and gather to itrelf the precipita- tion from them. Thus, I think it was that the ice on the land shrunk back, at the time of the greatest extent of that which occupied the bed of the Atlantic; and we have, both rAmerica^nd Europe, a period of land-ice, followed by one of fresh-water deposits and fresh-water borne ice- ^"^endeavoured to show in my paper, published in this journal in Oftober last, that the ice from Greenland also reached the western coast of Europe. It passed across Ice- land, and overflowed Caithness, ipeland is so hugely gla- ciated, that we may conclude the northern ice invaded it also and, extreme as the view may seem, I can find no otht. satikaaory explan.aon of the faft, that the jvhde o the south of England is mantled by fresh-water glacial beds, than on the supposition that, at the height of the glacial period, the Engliah Channel was blocked up to the fouth-west hi ice that extended in an unbroken mass from Greenland. I sought in vain, before my last visit to North America, for a satisfaftory solution of the fesence of the fresh-water gravels and floated boulders of the south of England, and was driven to suppose that one or more bar- riers of land must have existed in the western part ot the British Channel; but, after seeing how th« ice in the bed of the Atlantic blocked up the water-shed of the eas em seaboard of North America, ten degrees of, l^tiude further south, I have no difficulty in imagining that it "lay ^Iso have blocked up the English Channel, and caused the foi- mation of the high and low-level gravels, the beds of the Rh ne, and the floated boulders of Devonshire, Somerse - shiJe, 'and Wales. I venture to predidt that evidence w 1 1 yet be found of the encroachment of the edge of this ice from the north-west upon the Contment, probably upon the coaTt near Brest, and I also expeft that traces will be dis- covered of the great flow of water that must have taken place, either round the south-eastern termination of the ice, or around the mountains of Britany, into the valley of the } Loire. 13 Niagara. Post-Glacial Phenomena. When the ice had retired so far back as to leave the channel to the St. Lawrence valley again open, the waters of Lake Ontario began to re-flow in that diredlion. From the whirlpool, northward, they did not run in their old channel, but took a more easterly course. This may have been because the lowest outlet through the moraines left by the ice was in that direction, as Dana has suggested ; but I think it more likely that it was because the ice retired from the eastward first. If we look at a map of the southern side of Lake Ontario, we shall find that most of the rivers have been diveited in the lower part of their courses to the eastward, indicating that the cause was not one of accidental configuration of the ground, but some such general one as the early retirement of the icy barrier from the eastern part of the lake. Wherever the river first commenced to flow, there it was likely to cut down through the rocks, for it would soon make for itself a channel through the loose drift lying on the surface ; and between the banks of that channel it would be confined, and there only operate on the hard rocks below, just as, in copper engraving, the acid only adts on the plate in the lines cut through the soft wax covering it. To make clear the argument in the question we have to discuss, namely, how much of the gorge in which the river now runs has been excavated out of the solid rocks since the glacial period, I must, in the first place, dire<5l attention to the sketch plan (Fig. 3) of the old and new gorges at the whirlpocl, four miles below the falls. The sketch is founded principally on a small plan in Lyell's " Travels in North America," and partly from my own observations and sketches on the spot. I regret that I cannot give an accurate plan, and I could not learn that any complete survey has ever been made. Standing at the summer-house, on the American side, at the point where the river takes a sudden bend to the east- ward, I looked across the whirlpool to the old gorge oppo- site, and the question at once presented itself to my mind — • from this point there are two channels downwards, one excavated before, the other after, the glacial period ; to which does the one upwards to the falls belong? This question does not appear to have occurred to the authors of the theory, that the whole of the gorge through which the river now runs, from the falls to Queenstowr is post- glacial. But why might not the old pre-glacial river have ii. Niagara. ti ave the waters From lieir old ay have nes left jgested ; e retired i of the most of of their was not ime such rier from re it was aid soon ig on the would be ks below, the plate To make discuss, iver now since the tention to jes at the s founded in North i sketches rate plan, r has ever in side, at ) the east- 3rge oppo- ly mind — • i^ards, one period ; to ng ? This authors of which the is post- river have >!3t2^ # * J, f tf^^Lft excavated the gorge abr ve the whnlpool. as we 1 as the old one below it, and the present river have ""^y J^^^^^V''^. rorge from Queenstown to the whirlpool, and, frorn that noint upwards, have re^occupied and cleared out the old channeP On the face of it the latter alternative seemed to r more Hkely. for the river above the whirlpool is run- n°n7ira direa^ ine for the old gorge, and »s. moreover about the same width as it is, the gorge to Queens own being narrower. I found, with surprise, that this important P^. 3. 3- Plan of the old and new gorges of Niagara river at the whirlpool. rf^'v v^^- point had been overlooked, and that it had been assumed, without discussion, that the gorge above the whirlpool be- longed to the new, and not to the old river. I determined at once to devote the time I could spend at Niagara t^ the elucidation of this question, and soon found some data bearing on the sub eft. Lyell and Hall both nodced the terracls formed in the superficial deposits, when ?he r^er commenced to cut back the new gorge from Oueenstown. These mark its course when >t flowed along Uie top of the plateau, and it seemed to me unlikely, that if mmam 14 Niagara. the corce above the whirlpool was pre-glacial, that the post- elacial river would have followed exadtly the same line when it was bounded only by the superficial deposits that marked the older features of the country. I found ihat, above the whirlpool, the post-glacial river had run m different channels, having, apparently, often changed its course in the superficial deposits. 1 bus Lyell has described one of these deserted channels that ran from the muddy rivei- to the whirlpool.* Another, I noticed, ran down from behind the town of Niagara-falls. In some places, the terraces and ridges that bounded the old river come down to, and are cut off by, the present gorge ; at other places they retire back for at least lOO yards from it. They prove that, before the present river was confined in its rocky Korge, it often changed its channel, as rivers do now that run through superficial deposits over a nearly level plain. On the Canadian side, a little above the whirlpool, two of these terraces come down to the gorge, and are cut off by it. Their diredtion is shown by dotted lines in the sketch plan of the river gorges at ch*: whirlpool (fig. 3. P- i47). and the following figure is a seaion through them at the line c D, in plan. bouldrrs of northern origin; a, river ridge. There are here shown two river terraces, of which the highest and oldest has been formed by the washing off by the river of the clay without boulders (d), from that with boulder (c), leaving a level terrace, excepting where it is capped by the river ridge (g). The river at the whirlpool has cut back into the old gorge, clearing out the entrance to it and cutting off this terrace, but on the other side of the old gorge it re-appears and continues on, parallel to the course of the present river, and without any reference to * Travels in North America, vol. i., p. 42. M t ^.^g^gg^^^gR,^jagagagg ag»i:i^^ i ^.fe Mii SJMAfete^ ' -— wz iich the » off by lat with ire it is hirlpool jntrance ie of the 1 to the rence to /arA^A ♦fS Niagara. is the old blocked-up channel, across which it had evidently been at one time continuous. This terrace must have been formed when the river was much wider than now, and flowing so slowly, that it had only power to cut through the unconsolidated sandy clay, without stones. The lower terrace marks a later stage, when, by the cutting back of the gorge, the river ran with a swifter current, a' a lov -r level, and in a narrower channel, andcutthroughthelowei .Ul to the solid rock below. Itmarka the last stage in the present river's course, before it occupied the gorge cut through the Silurian limestones. 1 he ridge capping the bank of the old river-bed must have been heaped up during floods. It is well exposed, though in danger of total obliteration, as it is being carted aNvay for gravel. The stones in it are all rounded, like true river gravel. Mixed through it, often filling the interstices between the stones, are niultitudes of fresh-water shells belonging to the genera ..hlania, Limnea, Unto, and Cyclas. I was able to confirm the observation of Lyell.that the assemblage of species is the same as that now found in the river above the falls. Amongst the stones of the present beach above Goat Island, I found shells of the same species as I did in the old ridge above the whirlpool, and in not much better state of preser- vation ; indeed, excepting that I had labelled the boxes con- taining the different sets, I could scarcely now tell which were the older of the two. This assemblage of dead shells in the gravel of the beach differs, both in the older and newer deposits, from that found living in the present river, in that many delicate shelled species are scarce, or not found at all, owing, no doubt, to only the more robust shells being preserved. Thus, thin-shelled species of Physa ..bound in the river, but I did not find any of their shells, either amongst the stones of the present or tie old beach. A little above the whirlpool, the gorge widens out abruptly, as shown in plan, and the terraces and ridge are cut off by it, so that they cap the gorge, and are exhibited in seftion almost as clearly as I have depifted them in fig. 4. I he river ridge, composed entirely of loose gravel and sand is seen running to the edge of the cliff. The widening of he gorge extends for some distance beyond it, cutting off the upper terrace in the same manner. At this spot the upper layers of limestone projeft beyond the lower beds, just as they do now at the table rock at the falls, forming an over- hanging precipice, so that the widening of the gorge cannot have been caused by weathering. I cannot conceive how the present river could excavate the gorge beyond the loose '■MJ Si i JguS^&iVtoTifewiw"-' '■'■^^^^ i6 Niagara. ridge of gravel, without washing both it and the terrace of unconsolidated till away; and it seems to me that we have here a proof, of what appeared before to be probable, that the river has at this point only re-opened the ancient [^orge, the clay and stones that filled the widened part having been washed out by water from below, not from above, as would be necessary to excavate the gorge itself. I concluded, therefore, that the pre-glacial falls had been situated at least as high up as this point, and I t'.ought that the narrowing of the gorge upwards, though it was still wider than that leading to Queenstown, might mark the commencement of the present river's work above the whirlpool. On examining the gorge higher up, I however discovered that there were several places where it widened suddenly out, and at two of these I found similar proofs of the gorge not having been excavated by the present river. Tiius, on the American side, between the railway and the suspension bridge, there are two or more widenings of the gorge, and I noticed a terrace of till at the upper one cut off by the setting back of the gorge. On the Canadian side, about a quarter of a mile below the suspension bridge, there is one of these sudden widenings or bulgings out of the gorge. Higher up a ridge of till, capped by river gravels containing fresh-water shells, marks a former channel of the river, and runs down about 50 yards from the gorge. This ridge does not wind round the widened part of the gorge, but runs down to it, and is abruptly cut off by it, similarly to the one above the whirlpool. Exai^tly the same argument may be used to prove that the present river has not cut out the gorge at this point, but only emptied it of the glacial clays and sands with which the old pre-glacial gorge was choked up. This example of a river ridge cut off by the re-excava- tion of an older gorge, is the nearest to the fall that I could find. From thence, upwards, the river terrace is back from the gorge, and uninterrupted by it. The argument resolves itself into this form : above the whirlpool the gorge approaches both in dire(5tion and width nearer to the old one leading to St. David's than to the post-glacial one leading to Queenstown. That it is pre- glacial is strongly indicated by the fa<5l of the post-glacial ridges being cut off by it in consequence of its re-excavation, whilst there has not been a single argument advanced in favour of the theory that it is post-glacial, which was simply founded on an assumption that does not bear investigation. The conclusion at which I arrive is, that the gorge was cut back from the whirlpool up to at least within three-quarters ^^&^^^;g^A, ,^i■miJl'!.m.:Mlf^li' VOL. V. (N.S.) vJ i V ii r i w i k i l'ii iri d' l l i T i l : ''i 0"lT i liti'''j'' i V» » "» iii ' iii I I"' ' " i "i''"'l •'m''''^'''' ' - 1 ■■■n'l^ ■*■*-. ^flM ,V'-. ■»■ ♦^ K».< I^SS" U^ 'ftli Niiigtiy(f- X9 of a mile from the falls before the glacial pcnod. It may have existed to within a few yards of the falls, for anything that can be seen to the contrary, whilst, in favour of such a supposition, there may be advanced the great width of the Eorge up to the commencement of the horse-shoe tall, the very small indentation that the American fall has made in the side of the gorge over which it leaps, and the appearance the plan of the falls presents, that the river is now cuttmg back a much narrower gorge, one as narrow as that leading to Oueenstown from the whirlpool. » . . I hoped to have been able to find at Goat Island some evidence bearing on this question, as both Lyell and Hall have described river gravels capping the till there, and also indications of a pre-glacial channel excavated in the si- lurian rocks, but the whole of the island was covered with a classy surface of ice produced by the frozen spray from the cataraa,that made it most difficult to get about the sloping banks, and masked the beds I wished to examine. On the Canadian side there rises a high ridge of Mil, over- lain by a thick bed of boulder clay, with large stones ; and on the American side, there is what appears to be a con- tinuation of this ridge, now cut through by the river. Around this ridge, on the American side, there are indi- cations, as I have already mentioned, that the river once flowed. Goat Island seems to be a remnant of this ridge, and I imagine that it has been pierced, not from above, but from below, that it overlaid the pre-glacial gorge, and was undermined in the same way as the clay filling up the end of the old gorge has been at the whirlpool. This and other questions that arise I must leave to observers with more time at their disposal, and a more favourable season of the year to make their investigations than I enjoyed. ihe observations that I made are the result of three days ho iday from business, and I am sure, from what I saw, that three months close application would not exhaust the many points of interest that present themselves. The geologists of Canada and New York could not have a more interesting . question to work at than this, and if they did no more than correaiy and fully map out the gorge, the terraces, and the river ridges, they would confer a great benefit on geological science. The absence of such maps I found to be a great drawback to my investigations. The only part of the gorge that has been surveyed with minute accuracy is that at the falls. This was done by Professor Hall, assisted oy com- petent engineers, in 1842, and permanent marks were at the Lme time fixed in the rocks. The first step of a new survey :S ST^SS?sr.~^' r 20 Niagara. should be a tngonometrical re-measurement of the rocks at the fall. This, compared with that made thirty-three years ago — one-third of a century — could not fail to afford data for calculating the present rate of retrocession, and would be a fitting compliment to the veteran geologist under whose auspices the first survey was made, and to whom the whole scientific world is a debtor for a lifetime spent in geological resea; ch. • j •. Whenever that survey be made, I believe it will decide that the present river is cutting back the gorge much more slowly than Lyell estimated ; that, instead of one foot yearly, the retrocession is not more than, if it is as much, as one foot in ten years, and that, allowing for the compa- rative softness of the rocks below the whirlpool, we shall have to put back the occurrence of the glacial period to at least 200,000 years ago, if we conclude that the whole of the gorge, from the falls to Queenstown, has been excavated since that time. But if the conclusion at which I have arrived is correft, that the gorge, from the whirlpool to the falls is pre-glacial, and that th , present river has only cut through the softer beds between Queenstown and the whirl- pool, and above the latter point merely cleared out the pre- glacial gorge in the harder rocks, — 20,000 years, or even less, i? amply sufficient for the work done, and the occurrence of the glacial epoch, as so measured, will be brought within the shorter period that, from other considerations, I have argued has elapsed since it was at its height. Simply looked at from a geological point of view, the time occupied may not seem important, and it has been usual for geologists to ask for an unlimited duration, though, even from that standpoint, it is difficult to reconcile the small amount of denudation that glacial moraines exhibit with the remote antiquity that some physicists assign to them. In Ohio and Illinois, the mounds of the old Indians do not look more recent than the ridges and gravel hills of glacial origin, and in some parts cannot be distinguished from them until excavations are made into them. In England I know we have a school of geologists who have taught that the river valleys of the south of England have been excavated since the glacial period; but wherever we find undoubted g''cial deposits, as in the north of England and in Scotland, we find them scarcely altered from the time when they were laid down. Cut the student of the succession of changes in the or- ganic world will have a serious difficulty removed, if it be proved that the glacial period occurred not more than twenty '.^ '' SS!Jii ip7r' Niagara. 21 lie rocks rty-three to afford lion, and ist under 'hom the spent in 11 decide ich more one foot as much, e compa- we shall lod to at ole of the !xcavated h I have 3ol to the i only cut he whirl- t the pre- even less, irrence of ht within s, I have , the time usual for agh, even the small t with the them. In o not look ;ial origin, ;hem until know we t the river ated since Led g'' cial otland, we they were in the or- :d, if it be lan twenty -KB^", *«2<. 'housand years ago. In the northern temperate zone, so far as we can learn, there has been little variation m the animal or vegetable world since the glacial period. In the tropics, the formation of specific differences has been pro- bably more rapid, but in northern Europe, the species novV living differ but little, if at all, from their pre-glacial an- cestors. Some of the large mammalia have become extmdt, but the fauna and flora are essentially the same as they were before the glacial periods— that is, though some species have died out, we have no proofs of any new ones having come in. There is not a single example of a distinft spe- cies having been formed since that time, though some varietal differences may be detcaed. Even man himself has, I believe, varied but little, physically, since pre-glacial In the paper already referred to, published in No. 44 of this journal (Oft., 1873), I assumed that the arguments brought forward by distinguished geologists, to prove that the palajolithic implements and the mammalian remains found with them were post-glacial, were founded on a sound data. There were g>-eat difficulties to be surmounted it that conclusion was correct ; but the published serious of the superficial beds, at Bedford and at Hoxne, seemed to ad- mit of no other explanation. Since then I have been able to examine for myself some of the supposed post-glacial beds, and to devote more time to the study of the whole of the valley gravels in the south of England, at the bottom of which the palaeolithic implements and mammalian remains are found. The conclusion at which I have arrived is, that so far as the British Isles is concerned, palaeolithic man, the mammoth, the woolly rhinoceros, and the hippopotamus are entirely pre-glacial, and that the great and distinft break between the palaeolithic and neolithic deposits in that area was caused by the culmination of the glacial period, when to the north of a line drawn irregularly from Lynn Regis, m Norfolk, through Birmingham westward, nearly the whole country was covered by land-ice, that destroyed the mammalian bones and the palaeolithic implements, excepting where pre- served in fissures and caverns, or in a few spots in the eastern counties, to which the ice did not reach ; and when, to the sc ath of that line, a great lake or sea of fresh water, dammed back by the ice that blocked up the German oceari to the north, and the British Channel to the west, covered the pre-glacial remains beneath a mantle of beach gravels as it rose and fell. Dr. Falconer long ago argued that the older cave 2a Niagara. mammalia were Pre-glacial ; Mr Tiddiman ha^^^^^^^ human bone beneath glacial debris ''',.ltAf^''te^o{ America Professor Whitney has announced the discovery ol a pre"gracial human skull, 'and I hope soon to be able to ay before geologists the evidence I have coUeaed, that I think pfoves^hlt the tools of paleolithic -a-n the British Isles are all of pre-glacial age. Nearly a ethnologists are aereed that the representatives of palaeolithic man are tne SkTmos of the fa'r north, and probably, in glaaalt.^^^^^^ thev 'leld much the same relation as they do now to more cl.%sed communities, living further south ^ J^or«<^°X!a climes, and I have suggested that the ^/Xloniln ru ns o civilisation still exist in the statues and cyclopian ruins ot Tf'vTeTa'Vtfgo'back .00.000 years to the glacial Pjiod the small amount of change in the oXT«r5ts'southem slow progress of civilisation northwards, from its southern homerarf difficulties not easily surmounted ^y the evoi^t^on ist for he has not unlimited time at his disposal. Ihis world and its inhabitants do show signs of a beginning, and he will have to put that beginning ^,f l^,f^^\7°"f/^,Vo^o that physicists and astronomers will all^ JJ^f '/^o°'°°° years scarcely takes us one step ^^ckward in the long sue- cession of changes in the organu: world of ^h^^h we have proofs in the strata of the ear h's surface These difficui ties will be greatly lessened if the period of the glacial Ipocrhas to I put'back only 20 000 yea- ; and so^ar as the excavation of the gorge of Niagara affords a sca^e of measurement, there is no reason to ask for a longer time. L^ Printed >t the Quarteri-y -Journal of Science Office, 3, Hor.e-Shoe Court. Ludjatf HUI. 1 found a ihire ; in scovery of ible to lay d, that I he British iogists are in are the ;ial times, w to more congenial ' a glacial in ruins of i-'sr, '^ ial period, i, and the s southern evolution- sal. This nning, and d the time if 200,000 ; long suc- :h we have ;sie difficul- the glacial , so far as a scale of ger time. t« -S urt, Ludfate Hill, i' t msmki^:.-'^-:-^^i>^:'i^'i