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 ThwC 3{istorical and Scientific Society 
 
 of 3^anitoba. 
 
 TRANSACTION No. 31. -SEASON 1888-8. 
 
 H 
 
 U 
 
 KJ ±. V±. 
 
 COVERING 
 
 ADVENTURES AND EXPERIENCES 
 
 IN THE 
 
 FUK TRADE ON THE RED RIVER, 
 
 1799-1801. 
 
 A PAPER READ BEFORE THE SOCIETY, MAY 4, 1888. 
 
 BY 
 
 CHARLES N. BELL, F.R.G S., 
 
 FIRST VICE-PRESIDENT OF THE SOCIETY, 
 
 HON. KEI.I.OW KOYAI. .SCOTTISH OK JCK MMIIC.M. SOCIETY, HONOKAKV CORRESPONDING 
 MEMUKR MINNESOTA IIISTOK IC.VI. SOCIETV, flllCAOO ACAHEMY OK SCIENCE. 
 
 WINNIPEG : 
 
 VANITOKA FREE PRESS PRINT. 
 
 iSSS. 
 
in 
 
 ii 
 
HENRY'S JOURNAL. 
 
 m^ 
 
 Experiences of a Yisitto the Red River in 1800 by Alexander Henry. 
 
 -*•»- 
 
 An Interesting Paper read by Mr. Bell before the Historical Society. 
 
 A meeting of the Historical Society was 
 held Friday evg. with the Hon. G'ilbert 
 McMicken in the chair. The following 
 paper was read by Mr. C. N. Bell, the Ist 
 Vice-President of the Society: 
 
 Deposited in the Library of Parliament 
 at Ottawa is a manuscript entitled "Jour- 
 nal of Alexander Henry to Lake Superior, 
 Red River, Assiniboine, Rocky Moun- 
 tains, Columbia and the Pacific, 1799 to 
 1811, to establish the fur trade." The 
 journal is included in two large volumns, 
 covering some 1,600 pages of foolscao, and 
 an introductionary note gives the "infor- 
 mation that Henry was the nephew of the 
 celebrated Alexander Henry, who travel- 
 led through the Indian Territories in 1760 
 to 1776, and also published his interesting 
 narrative, dedicated to Sir Joseph Banks, 
 the great naturalist. This note is signed 
 by one Geo. Coventry, who re-wrote the 
 jouruF.l from Henrys papers. He ex- 
 plains that Henry, to amuse himself in 
 this solitJiry region, first made the memo- 
 raada, and later on, the writing afforded 
 hiia a pleasing recreation, which was con- 
 tinued up to the date of his death. 
 In Harmon's journal will be found an 
 item, dated on October 18th, 1814, 
 concerning the news he had just received 
 of the death, by drowning in the Colum- 
 bia River, near St. George, of Alexander 
 Henry and D. McTavish, on the 22nd of 
 May, in going out in a boat from Ft. 
 George to a vessel called the Isaac Tod, 
 which lay at anchor without the bar at 
 the mouth of the Columbia. I have also 
 the original journal of John Macdonald 
 (which has never been published), who 
 left Henry in charge of Ft. George in 
 April before the accident occurred, and 
 who had been the Northwest Company's 
 officer in charge of the Isaac Tod, in so far 
 as the mercantile interests were con- 
 cerned, on the voyage out from London 
 via Cape Horn. In this journal I find 
 several references to Henry being at Ft. 
 Geoi^e, and also a statement regarding 
 his death by drowning. 
 
 I have limited this paper to covering 
 Henry's notes from July, 1800, to June, 
 1801, in the hope of being enabled later 
 on to add more papers on the subject 
 to the Society's collection. 
 
 Alexander Henry, who had been engag- 
 ed in trading with theSaulteaux from the 
 year 1792, appears to have spent his first 
 season in the Northwest (in 1799-1800) at a 
 winter post of the Northwest Company 
 
 situated near the foot of Fort Dauphin 
 Mountain, west of Lake Manitoba, leav. 
 ing there for Grand Portage, the annual 
 
 f;athering place at Lake Superior. In the 
 atter part of July, 1800, he started on his 
 return to the Red River. At this time 
 Grand Portage was still the headquarters 
 of the Northwest Co. in the west. The 
 place was abandoned in 1803, as it was 
 situated south of the Pigeon River, within 
 the bounds of the United States, the new 
 fort being established at the mouth of the 
 ^aministiquia River, with the name of 
 Fort William, being called so atter Wra. 
 McGillivray, the chief partner of the 
 Northwest Co. 
 
 From. Grand Portage there was a port- 
 age of nine miles to Ft. Charlotte, the 
 route from there leading through the net- 
 work of lake? and streams to Rainy river, 
 thence via the Rainy river, liake of the 
 Woods and Winnipeg river to Lake Win- 
 nipeg, where the brigades of boats took 
 their departure for the several districts on 
 the Red river, the Saskatchewan, Atha- 
 basca and elsewhere. 
 
 Henry, on the Rainy river, found old 
 establishments of the H. B. Co., at the 
 Long Sault and below the entrance of the 
 Rapid river. At the mouth of the Winni- 
 peg river also the H. B. Co. had a post, 
 near to Fort a la bas de la Riviere of the 
 N. W. Co. The remains of an old N. W. 
 Co. establishment still existed at the Port- 
 age d' Isle on the Winnipeg river. 
 
 On the 16th of August Henry arrived at 
 the "Grand Marais" on Lake Winnipeg 
 and found the dead bodies of grasshoppers 
 piled upon the shore to a depth of nine 
 inches. He describes a stream enterinK 
 at the south end of the lake under the 
 name of Catfish River. 
 
 Passing up the central channel of the 
 Red River delta, which was the one al- 
 ways used by the traders, the River of 
 Death (Nettlev Creek) was reached, and 
 soon after, flowing in from the east side, 
 "Riviere Qui de Boule," which rises, like 
 the Catfish, in the Cypress Hills east of 
 the Red River, and near the mouth of this 
 stream was an island. Describing the 
 "Sault la Biche," (St. Andrews Rapids). 
 Henry writes, "at this spot (at the head of 
 the rapids) where there is a beautiful 
 plain upon the west shore, which is more 
 elevated than that of the east, formerly the 
 Crees and Assiniboines were accustomed 
 to assemble in large camps to wait the ar- 
 rival of the traders." Pelicans were nam* 
 ^^%t %jMxvAekn\A3 vL tne iictie river, a 
 
I 
 
 ^ ( 
 
 erous in the rapids, while flsh in shoals 
 frequented the spot, the varieties men- 
 tioned being sturgeon, catfish, pike, gold- 
 eye, &c. Moose, red deer, bears, wolves 
 and foxes also abounded. Truly a sports- 
 man's paradine. 
 
 Continuing up tiie river, "passed Frog 
 Pond, which lays upon the west side (at 
 Kildonan church) and soon after the 
 liiviere la Seine," and arrived at "the 
 Forlis," (Red and Assiniboine rivers) on 
 the IKth August, to find forty Saulteau 
 Indians awaiting his arrival, and soon he 
 procured dried buffalo meat in exchange 
 for liquor. Here the trading goods were 
 divided, part being for Portajge la Prairie 
 and part for the Red river posts. Five 
 boats of the Hudson's Ray Company's peo- 
 ple from Albany river on Hudson's Bay, 
 with Robt. Goodwin, master, in charge, 
 passed up the Assirlboine, and while the 
 transportation of the Hudson's Bay Com- 
 
 Eany's goods was effected by means of 
 irch bark canoea, the Hudson's Bay Com- 
 pany used "boats which carry 45 pack- 
 ages of 8U pounds each, are four-oared, 
 with a steersman, and are neatly built, 
 painted and sharp at both ends." 
 
 The men caught plenty of fish with 
 hooks and lines. "Pigeons are also in 
 great numbers here, the trees are every 
 moment covered with them." Henry 
 makes a most interesting statement re- 
 garding traces of the early French occu- 
 pation on the north bank of the Assini- 
 boine. "Upon this spot in the time of the 
 French there was a trading establishment 
 traces of which are still to be seen (where?) 
 their chimneys and cellars stood. I am 
 also informed that there was, at the same 
 time, a chapel and missionary here for 
 several years, but I don't believe they ever 
 made much progress towards civilizing 
 the nations. * * * We are much trou- 
 bled by swarms of the common water 
 snake. They even come into our tents at 
 n^idday, and every morning we are sure 
 to find some of them upon our beds, but 
 they are harmless and appear to live and 
 breed in the old graves, of which there is 
 an uncommon number upon this spot, it 
 having been a nlace of great resort for the 
 nations many years ago. In 1781-2, and at 
 the time the small-pox made such havoc 
 in this country, many hundreds of men, 
 women and children died and were buried 
 here." There is no doubt in my 
 mind but that Henry refers to 
 Fort Rouge, and as he is very defi- 
 nite in stating it was "on this 
 spot" where he was encamped, and as he 
 continually refers to being on the north 
 bank of the Assiniboine, this very clear 
 statement seems to point out that the site 
 of Fort Rouge was north of the Assini- 
 boine, and not south of it. as is the com- 
 mon impression, created by its so appear- 
 ing on some of the old maps, which were 
 very imperfect as to detail. Even as late 
 as 1870, when 1 arrived at Fort Garry, the 
 thicket of w lows and brambles which 
 stretched along what is now the east side 
 
 Graham St. south to York St., covered the 
 site of an extensive Indian grave yard, 
 and was evidently the locality mentioned 
 by Henry as the resort of the watersnakes. 
 While in camp at the Forks Henry 
 was visited by a few Indians on 
 horseback who came from towards 
 Portage la Prairie, (the trail was on the 
 north of the Assiniboine). They were "of 
 the tribe called the Snakes, who formerly 
 inhabited the Lake of the Woods. They 
 once were numerous, but at present can- 
 not muster more than fifty men. They 
 may be said to be of the same nation as 
 the Crees, but have a different dialect, 
 something resembling the Saulteau lan- 
 guage. They are a mischievous and 
 thieving set of scoundrels, and now in- 
 habit a tract of land upon the Assinil)oine 
 river, about 60 leagues west from this 
 place, and indeed some of them are to be 
 found almost all over the country where 
 there is Saulteaux and Crees. I purchased 
 a horse from them for a nine gallon keg 
 mixed rum, and one of my people bought 
 another for the snme price. • These were 
 the first and only two horues we had be- 
 longing to the Red River, the Saulteaux 
 had none, but always used canoes." Aug- 
 ust 20th, Jno. McDonell, a proprietor of 
 the N. W. Co., with 9 canoes and 3 boats, 
 camped at The Forks en route to Qu'- 
 Appelle, and some boats and canoes of the 
 X. Y. Co. passed up the Assiniboine on 
 the same day. 
 
 The Saulteaux with Henry, at the Forks, 
 had left Leech Lake at the headwaters of 
 the Mississippi since 1790. "They were 
 certainly in a great state of alarm when 
 we arrived, and had even made a sort of 
 intrenchment by digging deep holes in the 
 ground, of several yards in length, for the 
 security of their women and children, and 
 for themselves." 
 
 During the Northwest rebellion of 1885 
 the Metis constructed an elaborate system 
 of rifle pits, and it was supposed their 
 leaders had been studying regular modem 
 military tactics, but it is most probable 
 that, from time immemorial, this method 
 of constructing shelter trenches had been 
 practiced by their Indian forefathers. 
 
 Leaving the Forks, Henry and his party 
 (which consisted of one clerk, one inter- 
 preter, eighteen workingmen, four wo- 
 men and four children) proceeded up the 
 Red River. At the Salle River he notes 
 that the heavy brush,between that stream 
 and the Assiniboine, was a favorite resort 
 of the buffalo during the winter season. 
 On the 22nd Aug., at Crooked Rapids, 
 they found a great plenty of fruit, such as 
 red plums, paubians (pembina berries) 
 and grapes. "The plums are just now ripe 
 and very gooa. They appear to be of 
 three diflferent sorts — the large yellow 
 speckled, large red and the small red. 
 The Paubian Is of a beautiful red, fine and 
 large, but require the ^st to bring them 
 to maturity. The same with the grapes, 
 which are of a small sort, and when rine 
 perfectly blue. Vines are bending to tne 
 
 At the entrance of 
 
 J 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 t 
 t 
 
5 
 
 1^ 
 
 I: 
 
 the Rat Rivei' they observed the 
 remains of some old buildinKs 
 where ChabolUer had wintered 171Xi-7. 
 A few years prior to thin date 
 beaver were in plenty on the upper part of 
 ll&i river but were nearly all destroyed. 
 At "Salt Point," above the Rat river, and 
 on the west side of the Red, salt water 
 issued from the bank only a few yards 
 from the river. It is probable that this 
 salt spring is now in tho bed of the river, 
 as the annual floods wear away the bank 
 at a rapid rate. Another description of a 
 salt spring is interesting. ''Balow the 
 Riviere aux Gratia (Scnvt^ning river, at 
 Morris,) we passed the great salt pit on 
 the west side of the river. It lays about 
 100 paces from the water, at the edge of 
 the plain, where it issues out of the 
 ground, forming a small basin, the ceixtre 
 of which appears continually agitated, 
 and to bo ^tumbling up like a pot of boil- 
 ing water. Thia, I am told, is an excellent 
 place for making salt at all seasons of the 
 year, as the water never freezes in the 
 middle of the winter, but the process is 
 slow and tedious and requires a large 
 number of kettles to make any quantity, 
 nine gallons of water producing not more 
 taan one pint of salt, which is fine and 
 white, almost resembling basket salt hav- 
 ing no grain nor coarse substance. ' 
 
 Vast numbers of Buffalo were seen 
 feeding on the plains about the Scratch- 
 ing River; the willows were beaten down 
 and the hark i abbed from the trees by the 
 animals- The Scratching River, Henry 
 notes, takes its rise in the Hair Hills 
 (Pembina Mountalus), under the name of 
 the Riviere aux Islette de Bois, and is 
 divided into three branches before losing 
 itself in a swamp, whence it issues in two 
 streams for 25 miles before coming to- 
 gether. 
 
 So plentiful was game along the Red 
 River in this locality that during a morn- 
 ing hunt, while the party paddled up 
 with the canoes, some "few Indians had 
 killed 8 fat cow buffaloes, 3 red deer, and 
 i bears near the river bank." 
 
 "The Plumb River takes its rise in the 
 Hair Ilills in a marsh a little south of the 
 Buffalo Head, from whence running a 
 course passes down the hills and through the 
 level meadows, but in the last place it has 
 no wood upon its banks, excepting at one 
 place where grows a few stunted willows 
 and a chance elm tree. This spot is call- 
 ed the Buffalo's Tent, and is situated half- 
 way between the Hills and the Red 
 River." 
 
 Henry is very particular to note every 
 geographical feature of the country, the 
 journal having many items of interest, 
 such as, "a little river runs into the Red 
 on the west side, about a mile below the 
 Rosseau, called the Riviere aux Marais." 
 He says that Rosseau Lake contai ned 
 plenty of fish, that animals abounded 
 there, and that the French used to go by 
 that route from the Lake of the Woods to 
 the posts on the Assiniboia. His many 
 
 proves that information regarding them 
 was then easily procurable in the country. 
 The Indians (St:ulteaux) had an alarm at 
 Marais, and Henry writes "I went over to 
 see their trenches. There were three 
 principal ones, about twenty feet long, five 
 feet wide and four feet deep. These were 
 intended for the men to defend thetnselveH 
 in, whilst the women and children would 
 lie close on the bottom. I was surprised 
 to see how expeditiouH they were, having 
 neither hoes nor spades, they made use ot 
 their axes to cut the earth, and both wo- 
 men and children with their hands threw 
 it into kettles, and others into blankets, 
 fud toss it up. The Indian women and 
 ctiildren lay in the trenches all night, the 
 men in their cabins, (bark tents?)." 
 
 Each day a great number of goldeyes, 
 catfish and sturgeon were taken. On the 
 4th September Henry left Michael Lang- ■ 
 lois and fifteen persons at the Rosseau 
 river to erect a winter-post; three of the 
 men were afterwards to go to the Hair 
 Hills to trade with the Snakes and Crees. 
 Tho Saulteaux weredreadfullyafraidof the 
 Sioux whose war trail, at that season, ex- 
 tended up to the Hair Hills. 
 
 Nine miles above the Marais they camp- 
 ed at the Eagles Nest, and the next day 
 "we came to the Paubian river (Pembina), 
 and crossed over to the old fort which was 
 bailt (1797-8) by Mr. Chabollier, 
 opposite to the entrance of the 
 river. On the east side of the 
 Red river is the remains of an 
 old foi t, built by Mr. Peter Grant sotoie 
 years ago, and was the first establishment 
 ever built on the Red River." The Pem- 
 bina river is described as taking its rise in 
 the Rib-bone lakes, or Lac du Pla Cottc, 
 and along its course through the prairies 
 its banks "are well lined with large wood, 
 even until its junction with the Red 
 river." Even now there is a fair sprink- 
 ling of wood along the Pembina, but evi- 
 dently in Henry's day the prairie fires had 
 not destroyed so much of it as they have 
 since done. Red deer were very numer- 
 ous in the woods along the Pembina river, 
 and a short distance above its mouth four 
 otters and three beavers were killed by 
 the party on the bank of *^he Red. 
 
 Pushing on up the Red river, they found 
 the best "salt pit" on the river near the 
 Two rivers, where "the plain comes down 
 to the water and forms an open communi- 
 cation with that of the west side. It is 
 from this circumstance that this spot de- 
 rives its name of the Bois Perce." Buffa- 
 loes and bears were seen at every bend of 
 the river, at one place seven bears were 
 seen to be drinking at the river at the 
 same time. 
 
 On the 8th September the party arrived 
 at the Park Ri\ er, aAd Henry gives the 
 following particulars: "I went out in 
 search of a proper place to build. I found 
 none so well situated for defence, and 
 wood at hand, as a point of wood on the 
 west side within about a ouarter of a mile 
 from the entraace of the little rivw; a 
 
if I 
 
 from the river. I Hliould have proposed 
 building at the entrance of the river, but 
 thure was no wood on the one side and the 
 land too low on the other." Caaoet) were 
 unloaded, the lines of the fort marlced out 
 and meat stages erected. Game of all 
 Icinds abounded, animals resorting to the 
 river to drink close to the camp. The 
 Park R<ver here was auite saline. "The 
 Park River, near which we are settled, 
 derives its name from the circumstance of 
 the Assiniboines having formerly made a 
 park or pound on this river for buffaloes." 
 The water in the river some distance up 
 was good and pure, but a "salt pit" drain- 
 ed into it and contaminated the water. 
 
 All hands were soou employed in erect- 
 ing the buildings, which were made of oak 
 logs and thatched with hay. In one day's 
 time a storehouse was first built. Next in 
 order was the erection of the stockades to 
 enclose the buildings, as fears were enter- 
 tained that the Sioux would attack them, 
 and Henry writes that, with one or two 
 exceptions his men were cowardly and 
 very much afraid of the Indians, so that 
 "fear was an excellent overseer, and the 
 work went on with expedition." The 
 stockadeH, which were obtained from a 
 grove 200 yards distant, were of oak logs 
 about twelve feet long. In a week the 
 stockades were up and the gates hung. 
 "We are now in a proper state to defend 
 ourselves and might bid defiance to several 
 hundred Sioux." On Sunday the 21st 
 Sept. "Early this morning the men began 
 to cut down trees to build our dwelling 
 houses. It was their own option to 
 work this day or not, but their 
 excuse is that necessity obliges 
 them to get forward their work as fast as 
 possible, to get under cover before the cold 
 weather commences." It is thus seen that 
 Sunday was respected by the traders in 
 the wilds. Quantities of bear's fat was 
 spoiling because the Indian women were 
 too lazy to melt it. It does not keep unless 
 melted, but when rendered it keeps sweet 
 for a long time. A good deal of mixed 
 liquor was dealt out as gifts to the In- 
 dians. The tops of the oak trees in the 
 thickets were broken and torn down by 
 the bears in the vicinity of the fort, the 
 animals being in such great numbers as 
 to cause much surprise to the whole-party. 
 When completed the fort had stockaded 
 bastions at the corners about nlnt feet 
 from the ground. 
 
 "On digging a hole, in hopes of finding 
 clay, at eight feet depth we found the car- 
 cass of a buffalo which lay about forty 
 feet from the level of the river on a bank 
 covered with oak." 
 
 The Indians would cut at the gates with 
 their axes during the night when they 
 wanted to get in for liquor for a "drinking 
 match," as they (the Saulteaux) were not 
 accustomed to having traders erect stock- 
 ades about their buildings. "It is but of 
 late years that they have seen anything of 
 the kind, and the fellows having been 
 ifanc y acc ustomed to have 
 
 the houses day and night, and being 
 naturally of a haughty, imperious dis- 
 position, they cannot bear to bo obliged 
 to knock at the gate door that does not 
 open at their demand." Racoons, fishers, 
 and foxes were trapped near the fort. On 
 the 8th October Henry left on a tour of 
 inspection and found a fort had been 
 erected by his men at the mouth of the 
 Rosseau, and a wintering hut at 
 the foot of the Hair Hills. On his 
 return to Park River Fort an Indian 
 presented Henrv with "an elegant drum 
 trimmed with all the ceremonies of the 
 Wabauo medicine, and a number of differ- 
 ent medicines." The Indian expected 
 liquor in returu,but Henry would not give 
 any, and remarks, "Gratitudl^ they have 
 none, treat them ever so well and satisfy 
 every demand for a long time, then refuse 
 them but one glass of liquor and all the 
 past obligations are forgotten in an inst- 
 ant, and these persons are your 
 greatest enemies." Henry then set 
 out for a trip up the Red River 
 to Red Lake, ana when there was told *^y 
 an Indian "he knew of no person who had 
 horses in that part of the country." The 
 Saulteau Indians used canoes altogether 
 in travelling. Their summer tents were 
 made of birch bard and were replaced dur- 
 ing the winter season by structures made 
 
 of woven rush mats. 
 
 The wolves were very bold and noisy. 
 They did not seem to be hungry and pass- 
 ed by carcasses of animals without eat- 
 ins. "The Canadians swear they are mad 
 wolves, and are very much afraid of 
 them." 
 
 Knowing the destructiveness of the 
 prairie field mice, we can easily imagine 
 that they "destroyed dry goods and even 
 carried off glass beads." 
 
 November 8th Henry and an Indian 
 started up the Red River to Grand Forks, 
 equipped with a few pairs of shoes, one 
 gallon of high wines and a fathom of to- 
 bacco, in case they met Indians. At Grand 
 Forks they saw the traces of a large camp 
 of Sioux who had been there on the war 
 path, and Henry notes that this was a 
 great resort for the Sioux, as there was 
 plenty of game and fish, "and sturgeon 
 winter in the deep water at the junction 
 of the two rivers. Before returning to 
 Park Fort Henry visited the FoUe Avoine 
 river and the Otter Tail lake, and writes 
 of the Traverse, Pelican, Cedar and White- 
 wood lakes, and the "Strong Woods." 
 
 At Park Fort, on the 13th Nov., Henry 
 was informed by Indians from Red Lake 
 that J. B, Cadotte was making the Red 
 Lake Portage and would winter there. 
 The men made two kegs of good salt at 
 the "pit" on the Park River. 
 
 Hearing that the post at the Hair Hills 
 was in danger from an attack by the Crees 
 and Assiniboines, who were gathering 
 there to send a war party to attack the 
 Sioux, Henry left for the Rosseau and 
 went on to the Hair Hills post (at Pern- 
 
party had decided to wait for the next 
 Hpring. 
 
 Men arrived with doff trains from Por- 
 tage la Prairie via Rosseau and the Hair 
 Hillfi, Mr. Chabollier was in charge ai 
 the I'ortage. One of the men at the fort 
 found a wolf in a trap he had set in a hol- 
 low stump, and under it a badser and 
 under that a skunk, all of which he killed, 
 and the Indians at once predicted a great 
 misfortune from this, either to the hunter 
 or to the fort, and were quite certain the 
 Sioux would destroy all the people. 
 
 It would appear that the grizzlv bear 
 at one time ranged as far east as the Red 
 River, for Henry particularly notes that 
 the grizzlv and olack bears "take up their 
 winter residence on the banks of tne Red 
 River, and generally take to the hollow 
 trees,'* whue those in the Hair Hills re- 
 sorted to holes in the ground. 
 
 "White buffalo are very scarce. They 
 are of inestimable value amongst the na- 
 tions of the Missouris, but of no conse- 
 auence at this river, none amongst the 
 irees and Assiniboines, further than to 
 traffic with the above nations." On Dec. 
 2l8t Henry sent a stallion and a mare to 
 Red Lake, to Mr. Cadotte, who forwarded 
 them to Mr. Grant at Rainy Lake, and it 
 is most probable that these were the first 
 horses kept at Rainy Lake. Following 
 the custom of the country at that time, 
 "The Indians are very officious in wishing 
 to provide me a wife, but my inclina- 
 tion does not agree with theirs in the 
 least." 
 
 New Year day 1801, was ushered in by 
 the men firini; volleys with their guns, 
 which so alarmed the Indians that they 
 rushed to the fort, after secreting their 
 women and children. A liberal allow* 
 ance or grog was dealt out, and soon every 
 man, woman and child was drunk. 
 A very interesting description is given of 
 an Indian, who was an oddity. "Ber- 
 dash, a don of the Surcie, arrived from the 
 Assiniboine, where he had been with a 
 young man to carry tobacco concerning 
 the war. This person is a curious com- 
 pound between a man and woman. He is 
 a man in every respect as to members and 
 courage, but still he appears to be woman- 
 ish and dresses as such. His walk and 
 manner in sitiing down, his manners and 
 occupation, and language, are that of a 
 woman, and all the persuasions of his 
 father, who is a great chief among the 
 Saulteaux, cannot persuade him to act 
 like a man. About a month ago in a 
 drinking match, he got into a quarrel and 
 had one of his eyes knocked out with a 
 club. He is very quarrelsome when drunk. 
 Ho is very fleet, and a te-y years ago was 
 reckoned the most fleet runner amongst 
 all the Saulteaux. An instance of both 
 that and his courage was fully put to the 
 test some years ago, on the banks of the 
 Sheyenne nver, when Moneur Reaume 
 attempted to make peace between those 
 two nations. He accompanied a party of 
 Saulteaux to the Sioux camp. They at 
 
 through the interceHsion of the white peo- 
 
 §le, but on the return of the Saylteaux the 
 ioux pursued them immediately on their 
 leaving camp. Both parties were on foot, 
 but the Sioux have the name of being ex- 
 traordinary swift. The Saulteaux very 
 imprudently dispersed themselves in the 
 open plain and several of them were kill- 
 ed, but the party in which Berdash was 
 all escaped without any accident, in the 
 following manner: One of them had a 
 bow which he had got from the Sioux, but 
 onlv a few arrows; on their first starting, 
 and finding they were pursued, they ran 
 a considerable distance until they 
 perceived the Sioux were gaining fast 
 upon them, when Berdash took the bow 
 and arrows from his comrades and told 
 them to run as fast as possible and not to 
 mind him, as he apprenended no danger. 
 He then stopi^ed and turned about and 
 faced the enemy and began to let fly the 
 arrows at them. This checked their 
 course and they returned the compliment 
 withinterest,but he says it was nothing but 
 only long shots, and only a chance arrow 
 could have hurt him, as they had nearly 
 lost their strength when they fell near 
 him. His own stock was soon expended 
 but he lost no time in gathering up those 
 of the enemy that fell near him, thus 
 he had a continued supply. 
 Seeing his friends at some distance ahead 
 and the Sioux moving to surround him,he 
 turned about and ran full speed to Join 
 his comrades, and the Sioux after him. 
 Soon after, the latter again approached 
 them very fast, when Berdash again stop- 
 ped and faced them with his bow and 
 trrows and kept them at bay until his 
 friends got a considerable distance, when 
 he again ran off to join them, and the ene- 
 my after him. And thus did he continue 
 to manoeuvre and keep them at bay until 
 they came to a spot of strong wood into 
 which they entered, when the Sioux dare 
 not approach them and returned back to 
 their camp. Some of the Saulteaux who 
 were present at the time, have often re- 
 counted the aflTair to me." 
 
 Henry writes of the partiality of the 
 female wolves for the traders* dogs, and 
 that they enticed the dogs out of the fort. 
 In January, Hamel, the man in charge of 
 the Hair Hills post, was plundered of all 
 his goods at the Bulls Head by the Son- 
 nants. "My men having little to do, they 
 therefore amuse themselves by sliding 
 down the bank on sleighs, from the south 
 gate. The descent is so great as to cause 
 their trains to run to the opposite side of 
 river. The Indian women join with them 
 and they have excellent sport." So we find 
 that toboggan slides on the Red river are 
 nothing new. 
 
 "Delightful weather for the Indian wo- 
 men te play their favorite game of coullion 
 upon the ice. They generally keep it up 
 to dark, whilst the m<in are always em- 
 ployed at their favorite game of platter, 
 and others beating the drum to keep 
 chorus with their wabano aopgs,'' 
 
 
6 
 
 wait in full operation at Red Lake, where 
 a large quantity of maple Husarwas made. 
 "My men' are now employed in making 
 Hoap for tbem8«lveH witli tallow, and when 
 a certain kind of salt is added, it makfta 
 excellent soap, hard and dry." Uald 
 eagles were Hoen all winter and early in 
 March tha raccoons began to come out, 
 and butfalo were in plenty. On March 
 12th geese and swans were seen, and the 
 ice on the river bepan to break. "The small 
 bastard maple trees (begin to run. The 
 sap of this tree raaKes a flue white 
 sugar, but it is not so sweet an that 
 of the roal maple, and requires a 
 greater amount of sap. There is 
 also to be found, in this part 
 of the lied River, abundance of 
 'Bois tors,' a short shrub that winds up 
 the stocks of larger trees. The wood is 
 soft and spongy with a thick bark. The 
 latter is often made use of by the natives 
 as a substitute for provision in the time 
 of famine. There are two species of this 
 shrub: the one grows much thicker than 
 the other and is of a very sweet taste, but 
 of too astringent a nature. The smaller is 
 of a more insipid taste and less pernicious 
 to the constitution. The> cut it into 
 pieces and boil it a long time in water, 
 when the bark is peeled off and eaten 
 without any further ceremony. I have 
 often subsisted on this bark, for many 
 days, but always found my weakness in- 
 creased upon me." 
 
 ChaboUier and John Cameron arrived 
 with the winter exprees, for Grand Por- 
 tage. The express left Athabasca on the 
 1st January, and, at least on this occasion, 
 went via Red Lake and Rainy River. 
 
 Henry states that it was a common dis- 
 ease with their dogs to have a swelling in 
 their necks and die before ten day's time. 
 On the 1st April the river was clear of ice, 
 and for davs the carcasses of buffalo, of- 
 ten in whole herds, went floating past. 
 "It really is astonishing what quantities 
 must have perished, as they formed one 
 continued line in the middle of the river 
 for the partof two days and nights. One of 
 my men found an entire herd of buifalo 
 that had fallen through the ice in the 
 Park River, and all drowned. They were 
 still sticking in the ice." Again, after a 
 month's interval he writes: "Buffalo 
 still drifting down stream. It is 
 most intolerable the stench arising 
 from the vast numbers of drowned buffalos 
 that lay along the banks of the river in 
 every direction, above and below, and of 
 which we can see no end. They tell me it 
 passBH all imagination the great numbers 
 of butfalo that are lyin^ along the beach, 
 and on the banks above. I am informed 
 that almost every spring it is the same, 
 but not always in such immense numbers 
 . as this." 
 
 For some reason, not clearly made 
 known, it was decided to abandon the 
 Park River Fort on the 4th May. and very 
 interesting information is afforded us by 
 the following entry in the journal, under 
 
 bian River (from Rosseau) on horse- 
 back, to find a proper spot for 
 builaing. I got there at twelve 
 o'clock, crossed over the Red river 
 (to the east side) with Desmarais, and 
 
 Slanted my potatoes, (130 small potatoes 
 ad been obtained at Portage la Prairie) 
 and sowed a few garden seeds on the spot 
 where Mr. Grant's fort stood. We came 
 back, and after examining the ground, we 
 pitched on the north side of the Paubian 
 river on the point of land between that 
 and the Red river, about one hundred 
 paces from each. 'The ground was so en- 
 cumbered with fallen trees of very large 
 sixe, and the underwood so intricate, that 
 we could not see ten yards before us. how- 
 ever, I drew out the the place as soon as 
 possible. Between this spot and the plain 
 on the west are great numbers of fine 
 large oak trees, very proper for building, 
 and on the north side between this and a 
 small rivulet, there are plenty of fine large 
 whitewoodproper for tlooring and covering, 
 the stockades must be hauled from some 
 distance below where there are fine 
 patches of poplar. This being settled, I 
 remained here for the night and sleot in 
 the old fort on the south side." This old 
 fort was inhabited by Charles Chaboillez 
 (written by Henry, ChaboUier), in 1707-H, 
 when he was visited by David Thompson, 
 the astronomer of the Northwest Co. The 
 town of Pembina, Dak., now covers the 
 sites of these two forts, and the woods, 
 with the exception ot a few trees, have 
 long since disappeared. 
 
 "Early on the 18th (May) we returned to 
 the Roseau river and found the Indians 
 were busy employed in making the grand 
 medicine, a ceremony performed every 
 spring, when they all meet,and when there 
 is always some novice to be admit- 
 ted into the mysteries of that 
 great and solemn affair. On this 
 occasion two young men, a woman and 
 Mons. Langloi's girl were recived. There 
 are many curious circumstances concern- 
 ing the admittance of women into this 
 great mystery of mysteries." The next 
 day the post at Rosseau was abandoned, 
 and the people embarked for the Paubiau 
 river, where, for the summer, the follow- 
 ing appointments were made: M. Lang- 
 lois, principal Indian trader;Desmarais, in 
 charge of the garden, horses, fishing, &c. ; 
 Le Diec, conductor of the work: with 
 Rainville, Dubard, Hamel, Poulivette and 
 Le Boeuf, to hunt. Henry then left 
 with his canoes for The Forks, en route to 
 Grand Portage, Lake Superior, to the an- 
 nual gathering of the Northwest Coy's 
 people. On arriving at The Forks, (now 
 the city of Winnipeg), he made the follow- 
 ing eniryin his journal: "No news from the 
 Assiniboine River, only that they are 
 starving at Portage la Prairie and exist 
 only on Esquebois, a root about the thick- 
 ness and length of a man's finger, and 
 may be termed the wild potato of this 
 country. It has a thin skin of a yellowish 
 color, the inside perfectly white, and 
 
 are I 
 ther 
 cauK 
 relic 
 verM 
 tity. 
 lack 
 iarti 
 an e 
 ingl 
 writ 
 
 L 
 
t I 
 
 are ali<o eaten in their raw ntate but are 
 then of a windy nature, and Home timeii 
 cause a iievero (olic, wl-'ch in not eaHy to 
 relieve. I have linown people to sulfer 
 vcrv much after eating a moderate (quan- 
 tity. We talce plenty of sturgeon, cat flHh, 
 lackaishe (aold-eyeH),and other kindH pecul- 
 iar to this river." Two days after he niatcos 
 an entry which may be connidered as cIoh- 
 inic hlH journal for that "trade year." lie 
 writes, "I set oil' on horneliack for Portage 
 
 la Prairie, where I arrived at dunk and 
 foundali hands actually starving and|not a 
 mouthful to eat. 1 remained here until 
 the first of .lune, when we embarked for 
 the Urand Portage, in a light canoe, with 
 eight men." 
 
 Henry's further experiences on the Red 
 and Saskatchewan rivers ani the Pacific 
 Coast, of which I possess noteM,must form 
 the subject for pripcrs at a future time. 
 
 
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