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Lorsque le document est trop grand pour §tre reproduit en un seul clichd, il est film6 d partir de Tangle supdrieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenent le nombre d'images n^cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 \ -"/ -^ / it*~n^ i^s ~/ /J 6(^ y ,.-«i:^-'t'''L-'i '"^^^ ^2m6. ^■'~^.. ' '--T^^ TOWAED THE SUNEISE. M r, ,, ri TOWARD THE SUNRISE; fiEINO SKETCHES OF TRAVEL IN EUROPE k THE EAST. TO WHICH IS ADDED ^ Mmaxiai »Mt\j OP THI REV. WILLIAM MORLEY PUNSHON, LL.D. BY HUGH JOHNSTON,- M.A., B.D. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. TORONTO : WILLIAM BRIGGS, 78 & so Kjs« Strut East. MM Entered, itocording to the Act of the Pari ament of Canada, in the year one thousand eight hundred and eighty-one, by the Riv. William Brioos, in the Office of the Minister of Agriculture, Ottawa S^dinitiott. TO THE HONORABLE JAMES FERRIER, SENATOR, OP MONTREAL, A PATRIOTIC STATESMAN, AN EXTENSIVE TRAVELLER, AND A TRUE FRIEND, li RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED AS A TOKEN . OP GRATITUDE, ESTEEM, AND AFFECTION BY PRKFACH. John Foster, in his Essay on the Alarming Increase of Books of Trave], is distressed to think of the literary hardships of posterity in having to read the accumu- lating thousands of volumes of travel. There is one comfort, however, which the great reading public enjoy— a privilege of which they cannot be deprived — and that is the inalienable right to read only such books as they choose to read. If an apology for another book of travel is necessary, the writer has only to say, that having published during his journey a series of letters in the Christian Guardian, which interested some of its readers at the time, he has, at the request of many friends, presumed to revise, enlarge, and supplement the series, wdth the hope that they may serve a better purpose in this more perm.anent form. Our warmest thanks are duo VUl Preface. to the Rev. W. H. Withrow, Editor of the Canadian Methodist Magazine, who has kindly furnished the larger portion of the excellent engravings with which this volume is illustrated. While endeavoring to reflect exact images of the scenes and events wit- nessed in many lands, the writer is indebted to various authors for helps and suggestions, and in some in- stances he has " conveyed," as Ancient Pistol puts it, the facts furnished by them to these pages, making them contributory to his design to impart instruction as well as pleasure. If the reader should find enter- tainment or profit, or should have awakened in his mind new interest in the historic lands of Europe, and the more ancient and sacred lands of the Bible, the purpose of the author will have been fully accom- plished. H. J. MoNTBEAL, December, 1881. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Reasons for the Journey-Startin.j-The Dominion Steamship Company-Tlie Mai de Mer-Fog Banks-Old Ocean in Winter-Grand Sights— Lessons of the Sea— Chief Occu- pation on Shipboard— Land Ahead- On English soil . i PAOB. -17 CHAPTER II. Sights of Liverpool-Hotel Life-Chester-Its Walls and Rows - The Cathedral— Dean Howson— Eaton Hall— Railways -English Scenery-Manchester-Bedford-On to London 18-34 CHAPTER in. The World's Metropolis-The People-The Streets-The River —Hyde Park— A Diversion— St. Paul's Cathedral— West- minster Abbey-Jerusalem Chamber— Houses of Parlia- ment—Exciting Debates— Cleopatra's Needle- Her Ma- jesty's Tower 35-66 The Heart of London- CHAPTER IV. -The Bank— Exchange- -Mansion House —National Gallery— Madame Tussaud— Zoological Gar- dens-South Kensington -The British Museum -City Road Chapel— Bunhill Field's Cemetery— The Children's Home 56-72 Contents. CHAPTER V. PAOK. London Preachers — Charles H. Spurgeou — Archibald G. Brown — Dean Stanley — Cathedral Music— Canon Liddon — The Establishment — Cardinal Manning — Dr. Parker — Dr. Donald Eraser — Dr. Pope — Dr. Rigg — Dr. Wm. Morley Punshon 73-102 K.} HAPTER VI. Alexandra and Crystal Palaces — Kew Gardens — "Windsor Castle — Crossing the Channel — France — Paris — First Impres- sions — French Language — Avenues — Arch of Triumph — Palace of the Tuileries —The Louvre — The Nude in Art — The Luxembourg — Madeleine — Notre Dame — St. Germain I'Auxerrois— Saint Chapelle — Pantheon — Hotel des Inva- lides — Tomb of Napoleon — P^re La Chaise — Les Gobelins — Versailles — Parisian Life — A Sunday in the City 103-131 CHAPTER VIL Railway Ride to Turin — Bribing a Guard — Mountain Scenery Mont Cenis Tunnel — Turin — Marengo — Bologna — A Pleasant Incident — The Shores of the Adriatic — Italians — Brindisi — Scapegraces on the Adriatic — Corfu — Charming Scenery — The People — Greek Church — The Ionian Sea — Classic Lands — Byron's Isles of Greece — Crete and Fair Havens — A Storm — The Mediterranean — Arrival in Alex- andria 132-160 CHAPTER VIIL Alexandria Landing — The Donkey Boys — The Streets and Bazaars — Khedive's Palace — Pompey's Pillar — The An- cient City of the Ptolemies — Library — Arab Quarter — Drives — On Shipboard Again — Aboukir Bay and Nelson's Victory — A Lovely Sunset — Port Said— Landing at Joppa . —An Ancient City— The Holy Land 161-179 Contents. XI CHAPTER IX. First Day in the Holy Land-House of Simon the Tanner- ""' Miss Arnotfs School-Orange Gai dens— A Feast— Getting Ready to Start-A Caravan— The Plain of Sharon— The Philistines-Beit Dejan-Ludd-Ranileh, or Arimathea- The Tower— A Noble Act-Encanipment-Dinner-First Night under Canvas -A Jackass -Gimzo -Scripture Scenes-Valley of Ajalon~Dr. Tyndall and Joshua's Mi- racle— Gezer- Am wds— The Gate of the Valley -The Mountains of Judea— Abu-Gosh-Kirjath Jeanm-Valley of Elah -A Magnificent View- Valley of Koloniah— The Mountains round about Jerusalem-Arrival in the City. . 180-205 CHAPTER X. The Holy City-First Feeling of Disappointment-Topography of the City- The Walls- The Gates- Mount Zion- Tower of Hippicus -Armenian Convent and Church of St James-House of Caiaphas-Tomb of David-Coenaculum -Zion -as a Ploughed Field "-Lepers-Jews' Quarter- Wailmg Place-An Aflecting Scene-Robinson's Arch- Bndge over the Tyropoean Valley-Mosque of Omar- Haram Area— Interior of tiie Noble Sanctuary- The Sacred Rock-El Aksa-A Chance of Heaven-Solomon's Stables -View from the Eastern Wall-Mount Moriah and the Jewish Temple-Christ in the Temple-An Angry Sheik —The Tower ol Antonia-Pool of Bethesda-St. Stephen's Gate- Outside the City- A Mohammedan Funeral - Climbing the Mount of Olivej-View from the Summit- Garden of Gothsemane-The Brook Kedron-Re-entering by the East Gate-Arch of Ecce Homo-Tm Dolorosa- Lymg Frauds-The Church of the Holy Sepulchre-The Court-Appearance of the Interior-Conflicting Opinions as to the True Site- U ,.ight of Te.stimc.y in favor of the lra.iiti«nal A«m/.-Calvary--Th,r Holy Sepulchre itself- Chapels of the Latins, Greeks, Armenians, &c. -Chapel of St. Helena-Mediaeval Legends-Impressive As.^ociations -Church of the Holy Sepulchre, th.- "Holy of Holies" ''■'•^'"^'^'" 206253 Xli Contents. PAOB. CHAPTER XI. Bethlehem — The Dead Sea and the Jordan — An Oriental Sa- lutation — Journey to Bethlehem — "Through Hell" — Plains of Kephaim — Rachel's Tomb — Zelzal — Solomon's Pools — Hebron — Cave of Machpelah — Etham — Bethlehem — Handsome Women — Grotto of the Nativity — David's Well— Shepherd's Field — Mar Saba — The Convent- Gorge of the Kedron — A Terrible Storm — View from the Frank Mountain — The Dead Sea — A Pungent Bath — Fords of the Jordan — The Sacred River — Mountains of Moab — A Dilemma— Er-Riha — The Bruok Cherith — Elisha's Fountain — Ancient Jericho — Gilgal — Valley of the Jordan — Valley of Achor — Going up to Jerusalem — Falling ftmong Thieves — Bethany— Mount of Olives — Church of the As- cension — Church of Pater Nosrer — "Climbing up Zion's Hill " 254-293 CHAPTER XII. An Excellent Guide — Upper Pool of Gihon — Lower Pool — Valley ot Hinnom — Field of Blood — The Horrid King — En-Rogel — Pool of Siloam — Fountain of the Virgin — Mount of Offence — Village of Silwan — The King's Dale — Valley of Jehoshaphat — Mohammedan and Jewish Tombs — Tomb of St. James — Tomb of Zechariah — Absalom's Pillar — Three Roads over the Mount of Olives — The Redeemer's Weeping over the City — Mount Scopus — The Quarries — Grotto of Jeremiah — Tombs of the Kings — Russian Possessions 294- CHaPTEK XIII. A Sabbath in the Holy City — School for Jewish Boys — Union Service iu the Mediterranean Hotel— Ramble over the Mount of Olives — View of the City — Gallop to Jaffa — Port Said — Suez Canal — Ismailia — Baggage Seized — Egyp- tian Scenes — Goshen Ainiroachiiig the Capital — Cairo 314 Contends. xui PAQB. —A Donkey Ride— The Citadel— Mosques— Tombs of the Caliphs— Bazaars— Museum of IJoulak— Palace of Shoobra —Excursion to the Pyramids— The Nile— Ascent of tbe Great Pyramid— View from the Summit— Interior -King's Chamber and Queen's— Theories of Prof. Smyth and Others — Second and Third Pyramids— The Sphinx- Return to the City 315-349 CHAPTER XIV. Population of Cairo— Coptic Christians— Missions— Railway Ride to Alexandria— An Oriental Sunset- On the Medi- terranean—Sicily—Mount Etna — Stromboli— Bay of Naples— The "Beautiful City "-San Martino-The Mu- seum—Churches -Virgil's Tomb - Sorrento— Pozzuoli— Baja— Capri— Pompeii— The Forum and Temples— Streets and Houses— Villa of Diomedes— Objects in the j\Iuseum —Ascent of Vesuvius— A Magnificent Panorama— The Crater— A Weird Memory— Caserta—Casenum— Roma ..350-372 CHAPTER XV. Old Rome— The Forum— Mamertine Prison— F^ta Sacra—Aniix of Titus— Coliseum -Arch of Constantine- Baths of Cara- calla— Ruins of Caesar's Palaces— Forum of Trajan— The Corso— Panorama of the City from the Pincian— St. Peter's —A Climb into the Ball- Interior of the Cathedral— The Vaticm— Picture Gallery— Sistine Chapel— Vatican Mu- seum— library— Famous Statues— Theatre of Marcellus— Protestant Cemetery-St. Paul'.s-Church of II Gesu- Santa Maria Sopra Minerva— Pain heon— Other Churches -Scala Santa— Museum of the Capitol— Palace of the Couservatori— Guido's Aurora— Barberini Palace— Dorio — Corsini— Borghese-Ghetto— Api)ian Way— i>o?Hr//c Cuo F-a.^t,v— Catecombs— Tomb of Cecilia Metclla— A Sabbath in Rome— Protestantism in Italy 373-413 XIV Contenii CHAPTER XVI. FAGV. Rome to Florence — Valley of the Arno — The Duomo — Campa- nile — Baptistery — Ghiberti's Gates — " Sasso di Dante" — Santa Annunziata--Michael Angelo's Bride — Santa Croce — Illustrious Men — San Marco — Savonarola — San Michele — Mausoleum of the Medici — Uffizi and Pitti Palnces— The Tribune — Art in Florence — Pisa — Its " Leaning Mira- cle" — Genoa — Its Palaces and Campo Santo — Turin — A Day in Milan— The Cathedral— San Ambrogio— ''The I^ast Supper," by Ijeonardo da Vinci — London — Death of Dr. Piinshon — Home Again 114 -434 v\ |n Pcmoriani. REV. WILLIAM MOPtLEY PCNSHON, LL.D. A Special Providence — William Morley Punshon — His Early Life — Opening Ministry —Great Populiirity — Excessive Labors — His Work in Canada — True Greatness — Ik'ieave- ments — A Memorable Conversation — Return to England Great Responsibilities and Heavy Sorrows — Failing H»alth — Continental Tour — Severe Illness at (!eno?» — Homeward Journey — Sudden Death— Universal Sorrow —Funeral — Affection's Tribute 437 4:>9 ■^%J^-5^ "^-^^f^ \- TOWARD THE SUNRISE OR. SKETCHES OF TRAVEL IN EUROPE AND Tl^] EAST. -*~4~ -*-*- CHAPTER I. REASONS FOR THE JOURNEY — STARTING. Reasons for the Journey— Starting— The Dominion Steamship Com- pany — The Mai de Mer — Fog Banks — Old Ocean in Winter — Grand Sights — Lessons of the Sea— Chief Occupation on Ship- board — Land Ahead — On English Soil. In venturiniT to i^ive to the world another book of travel to lands invested with the charms of immortal associations, I shall content myself with chronicling the little things, for the great ones have often been written about before. My journey of many thousand miles toward the rising sun seemed providentially ordered. A pastoi- of the old historic St. James' Street Methodist (■hurch.of Montreal, 1 was greatly desirous, aside from the intellectual liiboui- of three .sermons a B 2 Toward the Sunrise ; or, week and public duties of some kind every evening, of fully overtaking the immense pastoral demands of a large congregation whose members are scattered over a great city, and was working at the pace of sixteen hours per day, when suddenly I received a peremptory summons from overtasked nature to pause and " be still." As soon as 1 was able to get out of bed, I started on a visit to the City of Boston. Two weeks were spent with Doctor Cull is, where I had the opportunity of examining his great Faith Work, in the Consumptives' Home, the Children's Home, Grove Hill Chapel, Faith Chapel and Training College, as well as of observing the spirit of this de- voted servant of the Lord in his quiet home on Somer- set Street, and of trying to learn the way of the Lord more perfectly. Another week in the beautiful house- hold of Mrs. Butters, Union Park, and I began to feel ready to resume work. But my physicians insisting that a longer time was necessary for me to be restored to complete health, my noble officials met together, voted me several months' leave of absence, and pro- curing tickets, proposed that I should cross the ocean. They said that I had broken down in their service, and should undergo thorough repairs before leaving them. All this was communicated to me by telegraph, as it was desirable that I should start at once. To give up my loved work for two or three months in mid-year went like a stab to my heart ; but the ques- tion of health was most imperative, and as I dared not M --•as I* I ,H# Sketches of Travel. 3 step out of what seemed the way of Providence, in a few hours I was whirling away toward Portland. My faithful friend, Mr. John Torrance, a prince among men, a model of recording-stewards, was there to meet me with messages from home and loved ones, and to see me safely on shipboard. My state-room was al- ready secured ; and I found that my devoted wife, aided by the Rev. William Hall, M.A., whose skill in these matters is equalled only by his kindness of heart, had anticipated my every want. I was thor- oughly equipped for the voyage, and able to send back home a well-filled trunk, having learned by former experiences that one of the greatest inconveniences of travel is to journey with too many conveniences. On a bright day early in January, 1881, we steamed out of Portland Harbour toward the great open sea. The moment of departure is a trying one. As we hear the rushing and hissing of steam, feel the revolu- tion of the screw and the pulsing of the strong-mus- cled engine, and know that the vessel is moving away, a feeling of sadness comes over the soul. We wave our farewells to the faithful friends who have come down to the pier to see us off, and we think tenderly of those who in love and self-sacrilice have strength- ened their hearts for this separation. Good bye, home, and precious wife and children, and church-work. Your very memories are sweeter far than the music of bells and organs and choirs, that we shall hear in far-famed cathedrals ; and we hope to return with renewed 4 Toivard the Sunrise ; or, strength and zeal for more loving helpfulness and more consecrated service. And now that our vessel has turned her prow toward the rising sun, let me speak a word for the Dominion Steamship Company. Our steamer is 7'/?,e Oily of Brooklyn, of three thous- and six hundred tons, four hundred feet in length, forty-six feet in breadth, nearly five hundred horse- power, strong and first-class in all its appointments, and for speed the champion of the line. What a marvel of mechanical skill is one of these ocean steamers, so vast, so powerful, so well-proportioned — a living levia- than on the deep. The state-rooms of our good ship are clean and well-ventilated, and large for state- rooms on ship-board, which are generally barely suffi- cient for a person of moderate tonnage to turn round in, but not ample enough to swing the proverbial cat in without serious injury to the poor animal. The light is not through a bull's eye, but a square window nearly a yard in length. The vessel is nobly officered from the thoughtful, genial commander down to the obliging steward. The table spread is sumptuous — the attendance faithful — everything is that of an elegant and commodious floating palace. All thiscom- foi't to Liverpool and return is obtained for ninety dollars, what would cost for best accommodation on other first-class lines at least one hundred and fifty ^ But however elegant the surroundings, old Neptune exacts duty of nearly all " who go down into the sea Toivard the Sunrise ; or, I I in ship.s." " It is a great trial to leave one's country when you have to cross the sea," says Maclanie (ie Stael ; and it is always a h ipatra's fcer the tolemy, It is a it high, hreo of nptions. I stood [, civili- Y likely t' Jacob. t* Isaiah, )W much :)wer, the ided by ;nry HI-, \ ; royal history, le bridge h water, o'loomv y Tower, nothered. great stores of arms arranged in the form of lilies; ai.d passion flowers. We see the heavy suits-of-m.-iil worn in the old days of battle. Gay tournaments wore given here when this was the high place of k 'ng hood, and the very suits of ai-mor which we <• once glittered and shone on the flower of English : bility and chivalry. Where are they now? The Bet . ^amr Tower has held many a royal prisoner. Wh t have been shed within those thick walls! ,. :uci memorials are here of Dudley, and Raleigh, and the gentle Lady Jane Qvtvj ! We see the Latin inscription of Arundel over the fireplace, the interpretation of which is, "The more suffering with Christ in this world, the more glory with Christ in the next." We peep into the little room where Sir Walter slept — where he wiled away his long imprisonment with writing his "History of the World." The Jewel Room contains the crowns, sceptres, jewels, all the regalia of royalty. What a blaze of splendor! What wealth stored up in gold and jewels, in diadems and corona- tion plate! The crown of the Sovereign is a purple velvet cap, enclosed in hoops of silver, blazing with over 3,000 diamonds and the "inestimable sapphire." Its value is five millions of dollars. You also .see in glass a model of the brilliant "Koh-i-noor." This gem is of great antiquity and of high historic interest, nay every one of the dazzling galaxy of diamond, ruby, emerald, and pearl has its own pedigree and legend. I understand that Her Majesty's Crown has been con- r I if I 'iS I f ^ I I 54 Toward the Sunrise ; or, stnicted out of the fragments of half a dozen by-gone insignia of royalty and thus bears a resemblance to the British Constitution which has been patched and mended, enlarged and renovated over and over again. The "Queen's Beef-eaters" are there in their pictur- esque dress, and velvet hats bright with blue ribbons; but alas! the jolly days of the beef-eating warders are over. Before, they conducted you upstairs and down- stairs, and rattled off their story, and got their recom- pense of reward in a piece of silver dropped in their hand by each visitor. How those old warders com- pelled you to trail at their heels and listen to their stereotyped stuff ! ' ' For guide-book prattle when once begun, He([ueathe(l by tedious sire to son, Though often told is never done." But times have changed. Now, the admission is free ; much of the red tape is done away with ; there is no waiting for a party to gather; each takes his own way. The warders stand solitary and mute, and when I ottered one something for a special favor he answered in melancholy mood, "There's no money paid for any- thing now." O, a rare place is this glorious old structure. What conflicts it has seen ! Norman, Saxon, Briton, White Rose, and Red Rose, Revolution, and Rebellion, Protestant, and Papal. It rose with the Conqueror. t welcomed the Lady Plantagenet. It saw the haughty Tudor come and proudly go. It beheld the tyrant Stuart hurled from the throne, and f 1 1 5 '.f n Sketches of Travel. 55 hailed the Hanoverian across the seas. It has heard ten thousand thunderblasts and looked out upon unnumbered storms lashing the rock -bound coasts of the sea-girt isle. What memories it awakens! Its grim and wrinkled lines of wall, work on the senses like a spell. V ! \ \ ■• ■ t > 1 i 'fl/' I i I CHAPTER IV. i^^i I 5 I THE HEART OF LONDON. The Heart of London — The Bank — Exchange — Mansion House — National Gallery — Madame Tussaud — Zoological Gardens — South Kensington — The British Museum — City Road Chapel— Bunhill Field's Cemetery — The Childrens' Home. There is no end in the exploration of the labyrinths of London. How its streets, and squares, and bridges remind one of Dickens (whose last letter, in his own handwriting, is seen in the British Museum), and the very names of his characters, even to Dombey & Son, are found over shop doors and on street signs. The real London is inside of Temple Bar. That dark old archw ay no longer obstructs the streets. But since it served to hold up the heads of so many traitors, that were here exposed, a monument marks the spot where it so long stood. Among the churches after Westminster Abbey and St. Paul's Cathedral, whose mighty dome, noble as St. Peter's at Rome, attracts all eyes and draws all feet toward it, is Bow Church, one of Sir Christopher Wren's handsomest structures. Sketches of Travel. 57 The steeple of this church holds the bells within whose sound the Cockneys are born. The limits of London proper are said be within the sound of Bow Bells. From this point take an omnibus, and climbing to the top, ride along Ludgate Hill, Fleet Street into the Strand, along Pall Mall, Regent Street, and Picca- dilly. In this grand ride if you have made friends with the driver, you will have pointed out to you the collection of buildings so well known in literature, and called the Temple, the centre of the law power with its courts and halls, its lecture-rooms and council-rooms, and church — a beautiful Norman Church — the place where once preached the " Judicious Hooker ;" Exeter Hall, the building in which the great May meet- ings are held ; Somerset House, King's College, Charing Cross, where proclamations were wont to be made, and where, in 1837, Victoria was proclaimed Queen ; Trafalgar Square, with its column rising up 180 feet, and the granite statue of the hero Nelson on the top, on the four sides the bronze bas-relief, which represent the " Death of Nelson," the " Battle of the Nile," the " Battle of St. Vincent," and the " Battle of Copen- hagen," with the couchant Lions of Landseer at the base ; Buckingham Palace, the royal residence of the Queen in London ; Apsley House, the mansion of the Duke of Wellington, with the Triumphal Arch opposite, surmounted by the equestrian statue of the " Iron Duke;" the mansions of Baron Rothschild and of the ^r 58 Toward the Sunrise : or, II ii good Earl of Shaftesbury ; the Royal Albert Hall, and that " perfection of beauty," the memorial to the late Prince Consort, called the Albert Memorial. Its glit- tering cross, supported by three tiers of emblematic gilt figures, shines from afar, and it seems more like some thing of beauty dropped from the skies than any human workmanship. While you are in the West End amid delightful parks and splendid palaces, return to that grandest site in Europe, Trafalgar Square, and opposite Whitehall, where that brick-faced Bluebeard, Henry VIII., fell in love with the unfortunate Anne Boleyn, and from whose palace window Charles I. stepped to the scaffold, is an uncomely structure, but it is the home of British art, the National Gallery, a place to be ravished with the sight of charming pictures. I am not an artist ; perhaps I have not much taste, but I know the pictures that please me. They are those that charm the imagination, and uplift the soul, and purify the heart, and live in the memory. I could men- tion picture after picture in this gallery that I can never forget. Turner has many choice landscapes. Lingering for hours among the immortal productions of Sir Joshua Reynolds, Sir E. Landseer, Sir David Wilkie, Leighton, Gilbei*t, Leslie, Etty, and other English artists ; the Spanish school, represented by Murillo and Velasquez ; the Flemish, by Rubens and Vandyck ; the Italian by Titian, and others, I could not but notice how art is indebted to revelation for its sublimest conceptions. The two books of the painter Sketches of Travel. 59 % are Nature and the Bible. Take such scenes as "Christ Appearing to Mary Magdalene," by Etty; "The Vision of Ezekiel," by Poole ; " Christ Lamenting over Jeru- salem," by Eastlake ; " The Baising of Lazarus," by Hayden ; " Marriage of Isaac and Rebecca," by Claude; "The Cave of Adullum ;" "St. John and the Lamb," by Murillo, and they but illustrate what 1 have just observed. Can any one ever foi'get " The Re- morse of Judas," by Armitage ? The anguish of that face is burned into your heart. Entering .igain the busy heart of the city and minfflinff with the crowds in Leadenliall and Thread- needle Street ; the Bank of England, the Exchange, and Mansion House are to be visited. There are no archi- tectural attractions about that wonderful establish- iftent which makes itself felt in every money market in the civilized world, although it covers a (juadrangu- lar space of four acres, with a famous street on every side. Close to the Bank is the Royal Exchange, the headquarters of the commerce of this centre of the world. It is a spacious and elegant edifice, with a fine Corinthian portico in front. The pediment is orna- mented with allegorical figures, by Westmacott, and in rear of the building is the statue of George Peabody, executed by Story. Close at hand is the official resi- dence of the Lord Mayor, the Mansion House. We passed through the principal room, " Egyptian Hall " as it is called, which is profusely adorned with statues. The next public building we visited was Guildhall. f? :' ii : 60 Tozvard the Sunrise ; or. The chief point of interest here is the great hall, whore the annual Lord Mayor's dinner is ^iven. At the west end are two grotescjue wooden r. and Mrs. Punshon, and others, at the Lord Mayor's, the Honorable Wm. McArthur, in the Mansion House, .so famous for its good dinners; and was shown througli the Venetian room, the saloon, and drawing-rooms of this lordly house of the City's Chief Magistrate. I have also eaten turtle soup in Crosby Hall, the Palace of Richard IIL and Henry VIIL Those defunct sovereigns could surely never have dreamed that I, and others of the common crowd, would one day dine in their very Throne-room. Baker Street must not be forgotten and Madame Tussaud's Wax Figures. This Historical Gallery is justly celebrated, although there are those who pro- nounce it a fraud. You see the life-like portraits of kings and queens, statesmen, scholars, warriors, reformers, and celebrities of all periods. The faces and forms, the coloring, the attitude, the garments worn, the general appearance, are thoroughly life-like. 1- hese life-size forms seem to be real existences, and •' li !' Sketches of Travel, 6i not mere mouldings of wax. I remember, on one occasion Rev. Dr. Potts and myself amused ourselves for some minutes in tryinnj to decide whether a little dog in the grouping of a (]ueen and her court was a live terriei- that had lain i lias its fittest illustration here. You can study specimens of birds, beasts, reptiles, and fishes, in the galleries of natural history, or, walking through the avenues of a dead world, the Egyptian and Assyrian antiquities, ancient Roman and (jrreek art, see more of the great sculptures of Ninevah and Egypt than you can see on the banks of the Euphrates, or the land of the Pharoahs. Choice specimens of Greecian sculptures are seen in headless and mutilated marble. I remember, among the ancient statuary in the Art Gallery of the Cen- tennial Exhibition, overhearing a young lady remark to her companion, "Noses han to suffer here!" Well, noses and other organs of the body have suffered in the marble of the British Museum. London is full of "places to go to," but on no account must one miss the British Museum. I shall not ask the reader's company in all my rambles about the crowded thoroughfares of the great Metropolis ; but I shall ask him to accompany me to a spot dear to the hearts of millions the world over — the Old Mother Church of Methodism. My memories of City Road Ghapel are inseparably linked with those of that incomparable man and minister, Uev. Dr. Punshon. A guest of his, and com- fortably settled in his delightful home, the kind, great 1% \ I i- - ^Jv M- j - , , i H! ' ; ' ' -■ i alL H"" '! 64 Toward the Sunrise ; or. man proposed that I should surrender myself up to him for the first day, and that some of the chief objects of the city should he seen through his eyes. I gladly availed myself of such an honor and privilege. He first intioduced me to the Underground RailM'ay system by which sub-London is traversed. Some idea of tlie extent of this network of lines may be formed when one learns that througli the station from wliich we started — the Addison Road, Kensington — three hundred and sixty-five passenger trains pass daily. We landed at Moorgate, and he led me at once to the Oity Road Chapel, a very simple and unpretending structure it is, and since the fire, has been restored just as it was when first erected. My heart was stirred to see upon the walls the monumental busts of the hero- fathers of the Church — John and Charles Wesley, Fletcher, Watson, Coke, Benson, l)larke, Bunting, Newfon, Jackson, and a score of other sacred and familiar names; and to stand in the pulpit from which they preached that Gospel which quickened all England into spiritual life. We entered Mr. Wesley's house and stood in the library where he studied, and iu the room where calmly he bre*ithed out his soul into his Redeemers hands. Then we went into the burial ground and stood by his tomb. " In the grave-yard of the City Road sleep five thousand dead. They were the early followers an