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Le diagramme suivant illustre la mAthode : 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 ^m^m^i^^^.3w^^^^s»0f»,t^-....^.^ 5 izi I 04 to QQ J s QSOZ^OGZOAZd SI7RVS7 OF CAXTASiL. ALFRED R C. SELWYN, F.R.S., F.G.S., Director. f ' » REPORT ON AN EXPLORATION FROM PORT SIMPSON ON THE PACIFIC COAST, TO EDMONTON ■■ ON THE SASKATCHEWAN, EMBRACING A PORTION OF THE NORTHERN PART OF BRITISH COLUMBIA AND THE PEACE RIVER COUNTRY. 1879. IT GEORGE M. DAWSON, D.S., A.R.S.M., FG.S. PUBLISHED BY AUTHORITY OF PARLIAMENT. Wonttjeal : DAWSON BROTHERS. 1881. m^yrmr ■ ^'•^-— ^i^tf^^ :.^' c#-: To Alfred E. 0. Selwyn, Esq., F.R.S., F.G.S., Director qf the- Geological Survey qf Canada. Sir, — I beg to present herewith a report on the exploration of the Northern part of British Columbia, and the Peace River Country. The Survey is indebted to Prof. J. Macoun for the determination of the plants enumei"ated in Appendix I., and to Principal J. W .Dawson for the preliminary note on the Cretaceous fossil plants which is incor- porated in the report I have the honour to be, Sir, Your obedient servant, GEORGE M. DAWSON. Montreal, March 25 1881. Note. — The bearings throughout this report are given with I'cf'erence to the true meridian unless otherwise specified. The native names of phices divided into syllables, are those which have been correctly ascertained, and in these the vowels are uniformly employed with their 'continental' values, the long mark(") being used to indicate force in special cases. The pronunciation of other Indian names has either not been ascertained with great accuracy, or the orthography has become so fixed by their insertion in previous publications on the countiy, as to render it inadvisable to change them. As the map (on a scale of 8 miles to an inch) of the region referred to in the report, is too large to be conveniently bound into the volume, it will be issued separately. REPORT ON AN EXPLOKATION PROM POET SIMPSON ON THE PACIFIC COAST, TO EDMONTON ON TlIK SASKATCHEWAN, EMBRACING A PORTION OF THB NOKTHEKN PART OF BRITISH COLUMBIA AND THE PEACE RIVER COUNTRY. BV GEORGE M. DAWSON, D.S., A.R.S.M., F.G.S. 1879. The region treated of in the pi-osent report extends from the Pacific ^'^^the exiliora- coasf- of the northern part of British Columbia, through seventeen '><">• degrees of longitude, to Edmonton, on the upper part of the Saskat- chewan River. For a great part of this distance, ho.wever, the explora- tion was necessarily limited to a single lino of travei-se. While, therefore, enabling largo additions to bo made .' knowledge of the physical and i limatic features of the region, the iloration is really of the nature of a reconnoissance, and in the remote region to which it refers, it is under present circumstances impossible within the limits of a single season to carry out more detailed surveys. The immediate object of the exploration of the past season was to Connection with rAilwftV obtain all possible information as to the physical features and economic explorations, importance of the country, for the ])urposo of determining to what extent it offered advantages for the passage of the line of the Canadian Pacific Railway. For the examination of the engineering features of the proposed route, several gentlemen connected with the staff of the Canadian Pacific Railway were detailed. To Mr. Sandford Fleming, Engineer in Chief of the Caniuiian Pacific Railway, the Geological Survey is indebted for the facilities accorded to us in connection with his surveying parties. Messrs. H. J. Cambio and H. A. F. MacLeod, with whom I was more immediately associated in the field, I have to thank for ready cooperation and assistance in many cases. The expedition occupied in all a period of seven months, extending Journey, from the 8th of May to the 9th of December. The journey from Mont- ^^■"'■^iar- l^s ^-^;;.:siLU. 2b GEOLOOICAL SCRVET OF CANADA. Preliminary report. real to Victoria was accomplished by the Union and Central Pacific Railways, and from San Francisco by steamer, in the usual manner. The mouth of the Skeona River was reached by steamer from Victoria on the 6th of Juno, from which date to the end of December, when wo arrived at Winnipeg, Manitoba, our time was continuously occupied in travel and exploration in a region without any recognized means of conveyance. A preliminary report on the results of the exploration was prepared at Mr. Fleming's request, and has been publisheti by him, together with those of the engineers, in the Canadian Pacific Railway Report for 1880. In the present report many subjects touched on in that just alluded to, are treated in greater detail, more particu- larly the strictly geological features, which required a greater length of time for their elaboration than could be aftbrded in the preparation of the preliminary report. In the following pages a general description Arrangoraent of the country in the vicinity of the routes followed, with special reference to its economic importance, is supplemented by general remarks and conclusions on the region. To this follows a connected account of the geological structure so far as it is known, the information collected serving to illustrate a general section across the Cordillera region from the west coast, to the undisturbed Cretaceous and Tertiary formations of the plains. Notes on points connected with the possible construction of a railway lino are given for those places which were not examined by the gentlemen more particularly engaged in this branch of the survey. PHYSICAL FEATURES AND ECONOMIC IMPORTANCE , OF THE COAST REGION. The Coast or Cascade Range of British Columbia is that forming the high western border of the continent, but beyond it lies another half- submerged I'ango, which appears in Vancouver and the Queen Charlotte Islands and is represented in the south by the Olympian Mountains of Washington TeiTitory, and northwai-d by the large islands of the coast archipelago of Alaslia. In this outer range there are three remarkable gaps, the most southern occupied by the Strait of Fuca, the conti-al being the wide opening between Vancouver and the Queen Charlotte Islands, fnd the northern Dixon's Entrance. To the south of these, the lower part of the valloy of the Columbia appoarn to occupy a similar depression, thi'ough which, and by Pugot Sound, a moderate subsidence of the land would enable the sea to flow, forming of the Olympian Mountain region an additional large island. What- ever the ultimate origin of the gaps holding the Strait of Fuca and Dixon's Entrance, they are features of great structural importance, and Mountain ranges. Gaps. BRITISH COLirMBIA. 3b are continued eastward in both casoH by depressions more or less marked in the Coast Eange proper. This is evidenced by the fact that the^Jefrlvewof Fraser River, carrying by far the larger part of the drainage of the Columbia. region lying between the Coast Ilanges and Eocky Mountains, after flowing southward for several hundred miles, reaches the sea opposite the end of the Strait of Fuca ; while the Skoena, whoso tributaries ' interlock with those of the Fraser, and derive their waters from a portion of the same great interior plateau (>r valley, falls into the Pacific near the heml of Dixon's Kntrance. A second large river, the Nasse, draws i*8 waters chiefly from the far north, and its mouth is not many miles northward from that of the Skeona. Though the Salmon or Dean River, the Bella Coola and the Ilomathco rise to the north-east of the Coast Range and traverse it on the way to the sea, in the region intervening between the Skeena and the Fraser, these are comparatively small streams, and drain an inconsiderable portion of the plateau, deriving the greater part of their waters from the Coast Mountains during the passage through them. The persistent north-west and south-eatst valley which separates the PewiKtent valley. Coast Range fi-om that forming the largo islands already referred to, is occupied by the Strait of Georgia, Johnston and Broughton Straits, ' Queen Charlotte Sound, and the water-stretch separating Queen Charlotte Islands from the mainland, sometimes called Hecate Strait. The northern part of the coast of British Columbia is best represented ^^fg""*^ on the admiralty charts 1923 A and 1923 B, with No. 2431 and several special plans of harbors and anchorages. It is as yet, however, very impex'fectly surveyed, attention having been devoted to the complete examination of the channels lying in the direct route of steamers passing up and down the coast, while many of the larger inlets and exposed parts of the coast are still drawn from Vancouver's sketches made in the last century. Vancouver being instructed to set at rest the possi- bility of the existence of openings to a "North-west Passage" felt himself obliged to examine to their extremities all the inlets, and explored many places whioh have since been seldom visited. The main structural features giving rise to the present complicated Ruiiiw features of the ooaet outline of the coast of Noi'thern British Columbia are co'iparatively region, simple. The most imv)ortant lines of structural weakness, or of the outcrop of softer rocks, have been those, running in a north-west and south-east bearing, corresponding with the direction of the mountain • ranges and the coast. These have been crossed nearly at right angles by a second series, while traces are also distinctly apparent of a meridional series. These lines, sculptured out by denudation at former periods when the coast stood at a higher level, and possibly also in r^mT&r,^atJ J'A.^i 4b GEOLOGICAL 8DRVEY OP CANADA. CoMt rangeB. Forests. Scanty soil. part by glacioi'H, have become the valleys of the brotid high region constituting the Coast Eango. The axial elevations of this range are situated at an average distance of sixty to eighty miles from the coast, and from these the height of its peaks and plutoaux (locroa,MCS gradually and with more or loss uniformity to the westward, till it at length becomes so inconsiderable that the sea flows into the valleys, forming the remarkable plexus of channels, and archipelago which fringes the coast. In conformity with the gonoral decrease in elevation westward, the outer islands of the archipelago are low in comparison with those lying nearer the mainland. These islands and the coast of the mainland are almost everywhere covered with dense coniferous forest, with the exception of the moun- tain sides and summits which are too steep for vegetation to cling to. As seen from the water, the trees frequently appear somewhat scrtibby and small, but on closer examination are found to be of considerable size, though in most cases not equalling those of the low alluvial j)ortion of the Queen Charlotte Islands. The covering of soil is almost every- where scanty, a fact connected with the absence of extensive ghujial deposits, which has been referred to in former publications. This is also found to be the case in the islands, which from their low and uniform outline might be supposed to have some agricultural value. Thus it is that even were the climate more favourable to agriculture, the area of land actually available for this purpose would be very small, and with the exception of the low north-eastern portion of the (^ueen Charlotte Islands, is scarcely worth taking into consideration. The Indians, while living chiefly on fish, frequently cultivate small garden patches, growing potatoes and other vegetables not requiring much care, or a prolonged warm and dry summer season. Dissected as the coast is with inlets, good harbors are scarce. The inlets and channels are generally deep with bold rocky shores, and are traversed by strong tidal currents. The heads of the flords penetrating the Coast Eange almost always receive rivers, each of which has formed a shoal bank about its mouth, but this usually slojjes off rapidly into watertoo deep for anchorage. The mouth and estuary of the Skeena is shallow and encumbered with bars and banks, and is unsuited as a port Port Simpson, fo^ large vessels. A fine harbor like Port Simpson, therefore acquires peculiar importance in view of the possible future requirements of this ■ part of the coast. This hai-bor has been accurately surveyed, and is repi-esented on a large scale on admiralty chart No. 2426, published in 18t2. It is, therefore, unnecessary to enter into a detailed descrip- tion of it. It may suffice to state that it is over three miles in length, with an average breadth exceeding one mile; that it is well sheltered and easy of access, lying at the eastern end of Dixon's Entrance. There Harbors. BRITISH COLUMBIA. ftB ;ion avo tho it at leys, hich fttion rJHon vhoro moun- iig to. rubby erablo )ortion every- glacial , irt also inilbrm [1U8 it is area of nd with lavlotto ndians, latchoH, care, or PC. Tho and are ^ctraling 8 formed dly into ikcona ib as a port acquires Ls of this id, and is )ubliBhed descrip- in length, sheltered There is a considerable area of level or getitly sloping ground well adapted for tho erection of buildings, and tho only circumstances lessening its value as a terminal port for a railway appear to be tho small area of arable land in its vicinity, and certain climatic conditions subsequently alluded to. '. ,• At Port Simpson tho Hudson Ray Company has long had its chief Metia-Katia. northern post, and although the dofonsivo measures necessary a few , years since are now n(; longer required, the fort still maintains a some- what formidable aspect. Besides the Company there are here a few other traders, and a number of Indians. A large and handsome mission church is conspicuous from a distance. At Metla-Katia, sixteen miles south of Port Simpson, a station of the Church Missionary Society, under Mr. Duncan, has long been established, and a largo colony of Indians have come together about it. At Port Essington on the south side of tho estuary of tho Skeena, is a third village, chiefly ^"'^ ^'*'"*"'"* inhabited by Indians, but also by one or two traders. With the exception of salmon canning establishments, these three are the only settlements on the northern part of the coast. The fisheries promise to be the most important industries foi* some time to come. The fish are Fiai,„iea. of excellent quality, and aro generally very abundant both in the Skeena and tho Nasso. The salmon aro taken in nets in the estuaries of the rivers, and alargo number of Indians and Chinamen are employed in connection with tho canning business during the season. The sea fisheries of the coast aro as yet undeveloped, but tho same renuirks are applicable to them as to those of the Queen Charlotte Islands, made in the Report of Progress for 1878-79. On some parts of the coast the tim- Timber, ber will doubtless be of value before many years. No mineral deposits of such a character as to induce permanent work have yet been discovered. CLIMATE OP THE COAt^T REGION. Thp climate of the coast of the northern part of British Columbia, while not subject to great extremes of temperature, is excessively humid, with much rain at all seasons of the year and occasional heavy falls of snow in winter. Neither Esquimalt nor New Westminster, which are tho only regular meteorological stations maintained on tho coast of tho Province, give a just criterion by which to arrive at a know- ledge of the climatic conditions of other districts; for both these places — but especially Esquimalt — aro sheltered from the excessive precipitation which occurs where the moisture-bearing winds first strike the high coast line. Observations maintained by myself while engaged in a geological examination of the Queen Charlotte Islands, dui-ing the summer of 1878 (published in the Report of Progress of the Available obserrations. Queen Char- lotte Islands. Ei^>^.-^9f >\xr<--y^ ■■ ■% 6b GEOLOGICAL STTRVEY OF CANAHA. Climate of Sitka. Hi i: Rainfall. Geological SuiTey, ISTS-O), fairly represent the climate of that region during a few months. Observations kept up during many years at Sitka, two and a-half degrees north of Port Simpson, and further west, doubtless represent a climate considerably worse than that of the northern part of the coast of British Columbia. It may, however, be useful to extract fi'om these the following facts. The latitude of Sitka is 57° 3', or about one degree north of Glasgow (Scotland). Temperature observations extend over a period of forty-five years with little in tei'- ruption. " The mean temperature of spring is 41-2° ; of summer, 54*6° : of autumn^ 44-9°; of winter, 32-5°; and for the entire year, 43*3° F. The extremes of temperature for 45 years are 87*8° and -4-0°. However, the mercury has fallen below zero of Farenheit in only four years out of the 45, and has risen about 80° during but seven years of that period. The coldest month is January, the warmest, August; June is slightly warmer than September." The mean of the minima for seven years of the above period is 38-0°, and of the maxima for seven years, 48-9°, shewing a remarkabl}' equable climate. The average annual amount of rain, melted snow and hail from 184*7 to 1864 (with the exception of the year 1855) was 82-66 inches, or within a fraction of seven feet ; and the average annual number of days on which rain, snow or hail fell, or heavy fogs prevailed, was two hundred and forty-five, or two days out of three, while it does not follow that the other days have a clear sky. Tables by Liitke, from observations in 1828 and 1829, show that on an average each year there were 170 days calm, 132 days moderate wind.s, and 63 days with strong winds.* The average annual precipitation of moisture at the mouth of the westcoMtf"**** Columbia River, eleven degrees of latitude further south, is stated to be five iucles greater than at Sitka, and it is therefore probable a 'priori, that in the vicinity of Port Simjjson and about the mouth of the Skeena, on that part of the coast of the mainland lying open to the westerly winds between Queen Charlotte and Vancouver Island, and on the west coasts of these islands, that the precipitation is at least equally great, and amounts to between 80 and 90 inches per annum. This amount of precipitation, though small in comparison with that of a few exceptional places on the earth's surface, is greater than that charac- terizing even the western coasts of the British Islands, with the excep- tion of a few peculiarl}' situated mountainous localities, where it is exceeded, and little less than the heaviest i*ainfall on the Norwegian coast (90 inches). Climate of Fort Recently published observations for Fort Tongass, though covering a period o- but little over two years, are very interesting in thie con- • Alaska Coast Pilot, 1869, and U.S. Pacific Coast Pilot, Appendix 1, 18V9, p. 30. Winds. Probable rain- Tongass. BRITISH COLUMBIA. 7b nection, and must represent the climate of the region in the vicinity of Port Simpson and of the Queen Charlotte Islands pretty closely, as Tongass is situated on the north side of Dixon's Entrance, a litt'io over fifty miles from Port Simpson in a direct line. The mean temperature is here 46-5°, or considerably warmer than Sitka. " This may be due," Mr. W. H. Dall writes " to the reception in the open throat of Dixon's Entrance of the warm waters of the Alaska Current, fresh from the great North Pacific Gulf Stream." Fort Tongass is the locality of the ^J,«««s''« ™'" greatest known precipitation in Alaska, the rainfall averaging during the years of observation 118-3 inches, on which Mr. Dall remarks, that obsei'vatioiis point to the Queen Charlotte Islands, and the region about Dixon's Entrance as the most rainy part of the north-west coast. At '• Tongass about two hundred days a year are either rainy or snowy, a proporlioii agreeing nearly with that observed at Sitka.* The excessive rainfall, considered in conjunction with the fact that Effect on the sky throughout the year is essentially cloudy, preventing rapid evaporation and keeping the dew point near the actual temperature of the air, accounts for the peculiar character of the vegetation, and the fact that ordinary cereals cannot be grown in the districts exposed to these conditions. At Port Simpson, on the west coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands, and elsewhere, many of the hiils are but partially covered with forest, the remainder of the surface being occupied by aphagneous moss several feet in depth, and saturated with water even on steep slopes. The low north-eastern part of the Queen Charlotte Islands is in great measure sheltered from the rain-bearing winds, and constitutes, in fact, the only extensive area of land which appears to be suitable for agriculture on the northern part of the coast. Mr. Duncan of Metla-Katla, who l^pt a meteorological register for some time after - , his arrival in the country, estimated that there were on an average about seven fine days in a month at that place. The behaviour of the Paths of siorms winds and barometer in both Vancouver and the Queen Charlotte Islands, appear to indicate that the centres of most storms, travelling from west to east, pass to the northward of the coast of British Columbia. This being so, it is probable that the force of the gales is somewhat greater on the northern part of the coast of the province than on the southern. I have elsewhere stated thr.t fogs do not seem to occur with sucli Fogs. frequency in the vicinity of the Queen Charlotte Islands as in the southei'n part of the Strait of Georgia. It may be interesting to quote, , in this connection, the following statement by the great but unfortunate navigator. La P^rouse, bearing on the northern part of the west coast. ♦ Pacific Coast Pilot, Appendix 1 . jjLi iqp "S*««BSS£>>.»,-^^. 1 l: Mild climate dependent on Japanese current. n Temperature of sea-surface. Analoffy with the North Atlautic. Influence of warm sea- BuriJaoe on the •if- 8b GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. * He writes: " I fii*st thought these seas more foggy than those which separate Europe and America, but I should have been greatly mistaken to have irrevocably embraced this opinion. The fogs of Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, and Hudson's Bay have an incontestable claim to pre- eminence from their constant density." The cause of the exceptional mildness of the climate of this region is to be found not alone in the fi^c.t of the proximity of the sea, but in the abnormal warmth of the water, due to the Kuro-Siwo or Japanese Current. The average temperature of the surface of the sea, during the summer months, in the vicinity of the Queen Charlotte Islands, as deduced from a number of observations taken by myself in 1878, is 53-8°. Between Victoria and Milbank Sound, by the inner channels, from May 28th to June 9th, the average temperature of the sea surface was 54"1°. In the inner channels between Port Simpson and Milbank Sound, between August 29th and September 12th, 54-5°; and from the last mentioned date to October 18th, about the north end of Vancouver Island, and thence to Victoria by the inner channels, 50-^°. Observa- tions by the United States' Coast Survey, in ]867,t gave a mean tem- perature for the surface of the sea between Victoria and Port Simpson and outside the Prince of Wales Archipelago, from Fort Simpson to Sitka, in the latter part of July and early in August, of 52-1°. In the narrower inlets of the coast, the temperature of the sea falls, owing to the quantity of cold water mingled with it by the entering rivers. These observations serve to show the existence, off the coast, of a great bodj' of warm water, and the temperatures closely correspond with those found in similar latitudes, and due to the Gulf Stream and North Atlantic ;mrface drift, on the west coast of Britain. The annual average temperature of the sea surface off the west coas||of Britain is stated as 49°, while that of the eastern North Atlantic, influenced by the Gulf Stream, varies from 44° to 54°.| It will be observed that the summer temperature of this body of warm water appears to be somewhat lower than the mean summer temperature of Sitka. Its influence on the climate is not, however, a direct one, but is chiefly exercised in the following way: — The pre- vailing south-westerly winds, sweeping over the warm surface of the • Quoted by G. Davidson in Alaska Coast Pilot. t Alaska Coast Pilot, 1869, p. 20. X " That portion of the Kuro-Siwo having a temperature of 55° F., or more, approaches the coast of North-west America in the vicinity of Vancouver Island. The precipitation is greater, and sudden meteorological disturbances are more com- mon between latitudes 48° and 66° N. than on any other part of the coast, so far as we know. But the water near the coast is less than 55° in temperature, and may average not more than 50°." Pacific Coast Pilot, Appendix 1, p. 21. BRITISH COLUMBIA. 9b which itaken Scotia, to pve- gion is , in the panese during tndH, as 1878, is lannels, surface Vlilbanlc rum the ncouver 3b8erva- ean tem- Simpson npson to In the owing to g rivers. sea are raised to its temperature, and become saturated with moisture, abstracting from it, as they do so, and rendering latent in conformity with well known physical laws, a still greater quantity of heat. When, on reaching the mountainous coast, this moisture is condensed and discharged, the latent heat becomes again apparent, and greatly raises the temperature of the atmosphere in which the reaction occurs. Accoi"ding to Dove's tables, the mean annual temperature of a place Comparison of °. , • t n 1 1 normal and Situated in the latitude of dlasgow, derived from the temperature of the local tempera- whole northern hemisphere, should be 35°. Owing to the Gulf Stream and south-westerly winds, the actual mean annual temperature of Glas- gow is about 50°, or exceeds the normal by 15°. The mean temperature of the greater part of the North American continent in the same latitude is five to twelve degrees below Dove's normal temperature, but that of the region on the west coast of America (which is related to the course of the Japanese Current in a manner similar to that of the west coast of Europe and the Gulf Stream) as represented by the above-detailed observations at Sitka, exceeds the general mean by eight degrees. The mean annual temperature of Sitka being, in fact, nearly the same as that of Montreal, ten degrees of latitude further south. The coast about Port Simpson and the mouth of the Skeena is very Zone of exces- imperfectly sheltered from the rain-bearing winds b}' the Queen Char-uon. '""*'"'" lotte Islands, while the islands of the coast archipelago, being for the most part of moderate elevation in this region, abstract little moisture. Where these winds firat impinge on the mountainous mainland the heaviest precipitation occurs, in exact correspondence with the height to which the moist air is forced up into the higher regions of the atmosphere, and cooled thei-e by its exjjansion and loss of heat by radiation. As the mountains attain a considerable elevation at the coast, and the increase in height of the peaks towards the axis of the range is comparatively gradual, the heavy rainfall of the coast is not found to be maintained in travelling eastward by the Skeena Eiver. or more, iver Island. more com- ist, 80 far as re, and may Tke Skeena River. The village of Port Essingtou, or Spuksute of the natives, is situated Port Essington. on the south side of the estuary of the Skeena, on the west side of a point forming the angle between it and a long inlet which runs south- ward, and is called the Ecstall. The ground in the vicinity of the village is swampy, and rough with stumps and logs, the remains of an t originally dense forest growth. Behind the little flat on which the village stands is a ridge which rises in one place to a rather remark- able conical mount. The Ecstall is referred to by Mr. H. J. Cambie* • Canadian Pacific Railway Report, 1878, p. 38. mf^^&i^'^^^^n^m^jT OfiOtOdlOAL StJIlVBY O** OAMADA. Vancouver's Exploration. : I as the source of ice floes which encumber the Skeena estuary during a great part of the winter. The estuary of the Skeena was first explored by Mr. Whidbey of Vancouver's staff in July, 1793. He appears to have gone no further up than the mouth of the Ecstall, and to aave been too easily convinced that the inlet was one of no particular importance. To Vancouver the name Port Easington is due, and was by him originally applied to the whole estuary. It is singular that notwithstanding the dil'gence and skill of Vancouver in his exploration of the west coast he passed the mouths of the three largest rivers, the Praser, the Skeena and the Nasse, without specially noting them. Skeena Valley. The estuary of the Skeena or Kshi-en, as the river is called by the Tshimsians, above Port Essington occupies a valley which resembles one of the inlets elsewhere penetrating the Coast Range, but has become filled with ddbris brought down by the river, so that where from the bold banks one would be led to expect deep water, it is not found. The mountains are steep, and for the most part densely wooded, but monotonous from the regularity of their rounded outlines. Their summits, though probably seldom exceeding 4000 feet, were deeply buried in snow at the date of our visit. In a few cases wide areas of bushes and swampy meadows seem to occupy the higher slojjes, but frequent large bare surfaces of solid rock are visible, from which snow-slides and land-slips Jiave removed whatever covering of soil may have originally clung. , The tide flows up the Skeena for a distance of eighteen or twenty miles above Port Essington. At this point the river valley narrows somewhat, and a mass of bare and rocky mountains appears on the north bank. The slopes of these are exceptionally steep and end at the river bank in bluffs and cliffs of considerable height. Between the head of tide and the mouth of the Lakelse River, a distance of thirty-six miles, the Skeena receives several streams of some impor- tance. The valley has an average width in the bottom of from one and a half to two miles, the mountains bordering it everywhere reach- ing 3000 to 4000 feet at a short distance from the river. At about half way between the two points mentioned, ho\Vever, the height of the mountains appears often to surpass 4000 feet, and they probably reach 5000 feet on both sides of the river west of the Lakelse. Near the Lakelse with a decreasing altitude they assume more rounded forms and show less bare rock, being covered with trees nearly up to their summits. The quantity of snow which accumulates on the higher mountains is evidently very great. In some places it has poured down the valleys during the winter, forming great heaps near the river's edge, some of which had not entirely vanished at the date of our visit. Mountains bordering the Skeena. fiMtlStt OOttTMftlA. 11 B The valley of the Kstoos or Ecstews is large, and several high ragged summits are seen up it, several miles distant. One of these the Tshimsians call by a name denoting an Indian box from the square shape of its apex. Throughout this part of its course the dull brownish water of the gtrooR current. Skeena flows steadily onward at an estimated rate of four to six knots an hour, sweeping round the islands and pouring through the accu- mulated piles of drift logs with a steady rushing sound. No reaches of slack water occur. It is evidently in general shallow, and later in the summer must show many wide gravel bars. Islands are exceed- ingly numerous and often so divide the stream as to cause it to occupj' a great part of the valley. The islands, though presenting a consider- 1"'*"^*' able aggregate area of flat ground, are so low as to be subject to over- flow, or where they rise above the flood level are densely covei-ed with large cottonwoods or spruces. The Lakelse flows out of a lake of some size situated about eight Lakeise Valley miles to the southward, which is about two hundred feet higher than the Skeena at the mouth of the river. The Lakelse valley is a wide and low depression, quite different in character from those of streams joining the Skeena lower down. According to Mr. Cambie, who ascended to the lake in 1877, the valley runs through to the head of the Kitamat arm of Gardner Inlet, the watershed south of Lakelse Lake being quite low. The wide valley from the head of the Kitamat arm was noted by Vancouver at the time of its discovery in 1793. He writes* : " This termination differed in some respects from most of the others; its shores were not very abrupt, but were bounded on each side by a range of lofty mountains, which, however, wore not (as had been con- stantly the case) connected at the head of the arm, but continued seemingly in a direction parallel to each other. The valley between them, which was three or four miles wide, formed nearly a plain, and was covered with tall forest trees mostly of the pine tribe.'' Mr. J. Richai*dson who examined the Kitamat arm in 1874, in con- nection with the work of the Geological Survey, reports that it is capable of being made a fair harbor. At the mouth of the Lakelse is a small Indian village, and evidences of a former more extensive one. Salmon run up the Lakelse, according to the Indians, in great numbers. About eight miles above the mouth of the Lakelse the Kitsumgalum Kitsumgalum. River joins the Skeena from the north or north-east. It is a large stream and is ascended by the Indians in canoes for a considerable distance. On Mr. Trutch's map it is called the Kitumax. It occupies a wide valley and appears to run through to the Nasse, forming a con- • Voyages, vol. IV, p. 78. .^J ■M^:^^S!^^.'r:y. ikSS^ 12 b GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Sip-ki-aw Rapid. tinuation of that of the Lakelso. A small Indian village is situated at the mouth of the river. The water between the Lakelso and the Kitsum- galum we found more rapid and difficult than any we had previously met with on the lower part of the Skeena, and it is at about two miles Limit of steam- ^^'*^^'^ the mouth of the Kitsumgalum that the stern-wheel steamer boat navigation ]^,j^fyj.j ,.cached her furthest point in 18G6. The Mumford was engaged in carrying supplies for the Western Union telegraph com- pany, and the point reached by her probably marks the limit of profit- able steam navigation of the Skeena. It is indeed difficult to under- stand how some of the i-apid reaches below this place were ascended by the Mumford. About five miles above the mouth of the Kitsumgalum is the Sip-ki-aw fall or rapid. The course of the river is here interrupted by a mass of granite, forming a low rocky projection on the left side, which is submerged when the river is in flood. On the opposite bank the rock rises abruptly as a steep hill 600 to 700 feet high, which is continued further up stream by a range similar in elevation. The width of the river at the rapid is 400 to 500 feet only, and at the time of our visit, the water having declined considerably from its highest stage, a half submerged mass of rock was also visible in mid stream. The fall at this stage of water is about two feet only, but a body of water so great, making this descent at a single bound, forms a pretty wild rapid. Canoes are generally unlotwled here and tracked up light. Ours were portaged across the rocky neck on the left bank, the stage of the water rendering that the easiest method. A steamer could only be got up the Sip-ki-iiw Rapid by warping. From the head of the tide to Sip-ki-aw Rapid the river is characterized by a great number of islands of all shapes and sizes. Above this point there are few. The islands are generally found to be composed of coarse gravel, with several feet in thickness of fine sandy soil or silt capping it. They seldom rise more than ten or twelve feet above the water level, and are evidently in most instances detached portions of the flat occupying the bottom of the valley through which the river flows. The coarse gravel has been deposited in the bottom of the stream, like the bars which now encumber the river, the finer overlying deposits are the result of the overflow on them of the flood waters when the river had cut down to a somewhat lower level. In ascending the river in a canoe the ' sloughs, ' or narrow channels behind the islands, are followed as much as possible to escape the strength of the current, thou^ nch * sloughs ' are usually found to load at the head of the island m a rapid and drift-pile. ZymoetE Valley About four miles above Sip-ki-aw the Zymoetz River from the south- east joins the Skeena. This stream, which is of considerable size, was Inlands and channels. BRITISH COLt}^IA. 13 a explored by HT.r. Cambie in 1877. It has a deep but narrow valley with Hteep anf banks draws most of its waters from the oast and north- east in the direction of the Kitseguccla, but receives a large branch called the Kitnayakwu from the south-east. The mountains among which it rises are over (5000 feet high, the snow-line being about 5200 feet early in August. • ; About five miles above the Zymoetz, or seventy-seven from Port j^-j^^,^ Essington, is Ivitsahis Oaiion. The mountains here crowd closely on ^*'""'- the river, especially on the north side, and though the ditts jind pre- cipitous rocks are seldom over one hundred feet in height, they are rugged and the hillsides above them steep and rough. The channel of the river is also interrupted by several islands and rocks. At the lower end of the caiion the river forms a^considerable expansion. Here and in the eddys in the canon itself arc the favorite salmon fishing stations of the Indians. In entering the caiion from the lower end, it is possible to ascend a certain distance in canoes by making wild dashes across the stream from the eddy at one side to that on the other. The length portage. of the portage varies according to the stage of the watei-, and the water having fallen considerably from its highest on the 16th of June, we mswle two short portages. The iirst across a narrow neck of rock over which the canoes were carried as well as the cargo ; the second, about 1000 feet further up, is by a path about 1000 feet long on the left bank. The canoes are tracked up hei'e empty. Canoes descend the rapids safely without jiortaging. Near the lower end of the caiion, on the right bank, are perched a Indian villages, few Indian houses, with some rudely executed carved posts, or totem posts of the kiJid common on the northern coast. Most, in this instance are cylindrical with figures of binis at the top. At the upper end of the caiion on the opposite or left bank, is a second and larger village with eight or ten houses, a few in good order, but most in various stages of dilapidation. The latitude of (his place as determined by a meridian altitude of the sun is 54° 37' 6". The mountains to the north of the Kit^alas Caiion at a few miles distant from the river, are estimated to reach a height of GOGO feet. On the south bank, west of the ZymOetz, Mountains, is a range of similar height, which from its appearance may be granitic. These, with the mountains before mentioned, constitute the eastern side of the low valley containing the Kitsumgalum and Lakelso. West of the Zymoetz and south of Kitsalas the summits are probably scarcely loss in altitude. From Kitsalas Caiion to Kwatsalix — a distance of about twenty-four Axial monn miles— the general course of the river is nearly north and south. The CoMt Ran^g^e. axial and highest range of the Coast Mountains appeai-s to bo crossed by the Skeena in this part of its length. The river has, however, Ulaciera. Rapids. Qravel flats. Const nnd in- terior floras. 14 b OBOLOaiCAL SimVET OF CANADA. availed itself of an important structural valley, and has not cut trans- versely through the range. This is evidenced by the fact that the mountainH at some distance from the river are higher than any in its immediate vicinity. From various points a few miles above Kitsalus Caiion iine glimpses of the higher peaks are obtained, but a better view, including the whole snow clad sierra, some tent-like peaks of which surpass a height of 8000 fcot, is gained on looking back on this region from the hills above the Forks, In several places small valleys in the upi)er parts of the range are filled with blue glacier ice, and one glacier which appears to be of some size is situated a few miles below Kwat- sali.x: on the right bank. The semi-circular valley containing this, surrounded by peaks estimated at 7000 feet in height and abun- dantly covered with snow, is probably the finest piece of mountain scenery on the river. The glacier occupies the bottom of a narrow V-shapec' valley and is probably about a quarter of a mile in width, rising up between the slopes like a broad waggon road. The ice appears from a distance to be completely covered with fallen stones and debris, and though the slope of the valley is considerable the motion of the ghicier must be slow, as the stream flowing from it was at the date of our visit nearly without earthy impurity. The end of this glacier is about four miles back from the river, and was estimated to be about 600 feet above it. The river in this part of its course has several swift rapids, but at moderately low stages of the water the banks are well suited for poling and tracking, rendering ascent though slow not difficult. The valley continues to be about a mile and a half, and even in places two miles wide between the steep slopes of its bordering mountain!?. The river winds considerably, but does not make abrupt turns, and there is now in general a flat based on gravel and from ten to thirty feet or oven more in height, on each side. These flats are not very heavily wooded as a rule, and though sometimes stony, and generally with a light soil, might in part, be brought under cultivation. The growth of wild peas, vetches and other plants was observed to be very luxuriant in some places where the forest had been burnt. In correspondence with the position of the highest part of the Coast Range the lino of division between the coast and the ii;terior floras may be said to be at Quatsalix. It is by no moans so definite, however> in this wide low valley as in the nari'ow and steep valleys of most other streams crossing the range. The damp-loving devil's club [Ecliino- panax Iwrrida) and skunk cabbage (Lijsichiton Kamtschatense) here became scarce. The last specimen of the wild crab apple {Pirns rivularis) was noted about ten miles below Kwatsalix. Pinus contorta becomes abundant on the river flats with the aspen (^Populus tremuloidsn) BRITISH COLUMBIA. 15 b Kwafgnliz , Citnon. Kit-wan-ga Village. which grows both on these and the hill slopes. The soap btriy, or Shepherdia Canadensis, and a few specimens of the Douglas tir wore noted, and the evidence of comparatively dry summer weather is found in the greater frequency of patches of burnt forest. Kwatsalix Cafion is merely a part of the river less than half a mile in length, where steep rocks and low cliffs come down to the water's edge. The water runs swiftly, though not so much so as to prevent loiuled canoes working up by poling and without the use of ti\o track- ing line, when it is at a good stage. There are a few Indian houses about the carlon, and according to our Tshimsian Indians from Metla-Katla the dialect hero spoken differs a little I'rora that of the coast. The Kit-wan-ga Indian village is situated on the right bank of the river about twenty-four miles above Kwatsalix. There are few islands in this reach of the river, and the valley continues wide with the exception of one place four or five miles above Kwatsalix, where low rocky hills come out on the water's edge. The river is generally swift, with a few stiff rapids. Terrace flats or benches are even more promi- nent than bel'ore and in some places spread widely. One flat in particular, about ton miles below Kit-wan-ga, having been burnt over Wide flats and grown up with grass and coppice presented a very attractive y appearance. It is about a mile long, with a width of half a mile, but with rather light soil. The hills for some distance back from the river are very low, and are eviilently composed of the soft rocks of the sand- stone and argillite series. Higher mountains appear at some distance. A prominent group of these to the south-oast being called Ish-gan-isht by the Indians. Most of the hillsides on this part of the river have been burnt over, and are largely, in .some cases for considerable areas, exclusively covered with asjien second-growth. The Kit-wan-ga Indian village consists of about fifteen houses situated on a flat of some extent and at a height of about twenty feet above the river. A trail leads from this place across to the Nasso River, the journey occupying, according to the natives, three long days. The houses are of the style usual on the coast but not neai-ly so large or well finished as those of the Iladias. There are about ten carved posts, but none of them very striking in design. About seven miles above Kit-wan-ga is the mouth of the KitsogueclaKitseguecla, River, and some of the strongest rapids wo found on the river are situ- ated in a stretch of about four miles near its confluence. Above this point to the Forks, the river though still swift, is more moderate. From Kit-wan-ga to Kitseguecla the river is narrowed in several places by the low rocky hills of Mesozoic sandstones and argilSites. The Kitseguecla is a stream of some size but very rapid and apparently Trail to the Nas88. vii: :^s: SSK Skeena Forks. Mountain ratiKes about Skeena Forks. in i 16 b OBOLOaiCAL SCKVET OP CANADA. iinsuited for canoeing. It comes from the Houth-oast, and a pretty low valley runs through from its sources to the Watsonkwa behind the mass of mountains known as the Rochers Deboulds. There is a small Indian village near tlio mouth of the river, consisting of about ten houses, tiuite modern and of inferior construction. This place was accidentally sot tiro to and burnt by some minoi's ascending the Skeena a few years ago, and has since been partly rebuilt, the government compensating the Indians to some extent for their loss. ' The Forkw, ' or Ilazelton, is situated on the left bank of the Skeena, a short distance above the junction of tne Watsonkwa. It stands on an extensive flat elevated ten or fifteen feet above the river, and at the base of a higher terrace, which rises very steeply to a hight of no feet. Two or three traders live here, and there is an Indian village of about half-a-dozen barn-like buildings, each accom- modating several families. The Indian village is puite new, and there are no carved posts, though the people speak of erecting some soon. The old village, where carved posts are still standing, is about a quarter of a mile further down stream. The low region about the Forks, and wide valleys of the Skeena, Wat- sonkwa, and Kispayox, seem to be shut in on all sitles by high moun- tain ranges. A triangular area, circumscribed by the valleys of the Skeena, Watsonkwa and Kitseguocla is occupied by the Rochers Deboul^s Range or Nil-ki-au-da of the Tshimsians. The north-east angle of this compact mountain mass is a magnificent rocky summit, with an altitude which was Jiscertained to bo 5955 feet above the FOrks, or about 6G80 feet above sea level. Among some of the peaks near it a small glacier is sheltered, and great masses of snow in June still lay on the upper parts of the range. The rocky cliffs about the summit must in some places bo of great height, but are dwarfed by distance. Looking back down the Skeena, the axial mountains of the Coast Range occupy a con- siderable part of the hc-rizon line. The highest points probably attain an altitude of 8000 to 9000 feet. To the west and north-west the continuation of these ixial mountains is concealed by a nearer range, which lies between the Skeena and the Kispayox, the summits of which ai-e at a distance of nix to ten miles from the Forks, and reach heights estimated at from 5000 to 6000 feet. The axis of this small range appears to run north-north-east and south-south-west. The summits have a peculiar reddish appearance. To the north and north-east, a massive range, from 7000 to 8000 feet in height, and holding a few little glaciers, runs north-north-west and south-south-east. It lies to the east of the part of the Skeena above the Forks, and decreases in altitude toward the north, where t,he Babine River breaks through it. The Skeena district can scarcely bo regai-ded as of much value BRITISH COLUMBIA. ItB agriculturuUy. On tho lower part of the rivor, — with the posHiblo ^^'iy°"f'""** exception of Ji few iHhuids, — there in ubHolutely no good land. At 8l"ona d"'r'<'t al)out twenty milcH Itelow tho Korkn, however, tho higher terraces at the sidoH of tho river, and a few hundred feet above its level, extend in some places Boveral miloH back from it, and uhow Hoil of fair quality composed of sandy loam with more or Iohh vegetable matter. It is reported that tho Skeena valley continues to present the same appear- ance further up, and it is ccrtairdy wide and low for some distance above tho Forks, while a considerable width of land suited for agricul- ture is also found in tho valley of tho Kispyox to the north-westward. It is impossible to give an exact estimate of tho area of arable land in this region, but it may be roughly stated at about 80,000 acres. There may also be some good lan!g used as lashing, or, as in the instance now described, telegraph wire, being a portion of that left by the Western Union Company' at the time of the abandonment of their enter])rise. About six miles from the mouth of the Sus-kwa, it is joined bj' the Skil- o-kis, from the north, a very rapid stream fifty-seven feet wide, and two feet deep. This is crossed by a newly constructed Indian bridge like that previously described. Five miles further on, in a general eastward direc- tion, the main valley of the Sus-kwa turns to the south-south-east, while the trail continues eastward by that of a large tributary. The sources of this stream, known as the Oo-ats-anli, are reached in about fourteen miles, and the summit passed at a distance of seven miles from the north end of Babine Lake. The Sus-kwa valley, to the mouth of the Oo-ats-anli, is wide, if the entire distance between the steep mountains at its sides be taken into consideration, but shows terraces at several different levels, the river itself flowing in a deep narrow trough cut in these. The terraces are usually very stony and even when of considerable width are quite unsuited to agriculture. The hillsides generally have been almost denud- ed of trees by fire, and exhibit a rank growth of grass, wild pea, ^eme/eMm and Epilobium, in some places already shoulder high, and offering very fine summer pa^^ure for stock. At the junction of the Sus-kwa and Oo-ats-anli a wide flat of attractive appeai-anco is sunk among the moun- tains, but is probably of no agricultural value. In following the Oo-ats-anli, the trail continues on the whole to ascend though frequent descents into the valleys of tributary streams are made. The benches are rough and irregular, and are cut across by numerous little streams. Fire has passed over nearly the whole country, leaving in some parts of the valley great forests of bleached and bristling trunks, with only here and there a cluster or belt of trees which has not been BRITISH COLUMBIA. 23 b means at ingenious five miles ), rushing h side two or thirty crib-work ing beams Jilt strong ly or floor ;am or of The tbot- a series of ig, or, as in of that left donment of I by the Skil- ide, and two (lo'e like that stward direc- h-cast, while The sources tout fourteen iles from the 5 wide, if the be taken into els, the river i terraces are th are quite Umostdenud- )(in,Heradeum ottering very Sus-kwa and »ng the moun- bllowing the (Ugh frequent The benches ittlo streams, in some parts trunks, with has not been High terrace. destroyed. Whore the trees Are still green the ground is every where summit. soft and wet. In its upper portion, and at the summit, the valley is wide and flat-bottomed with swamps and swampy meadows alternating with brush and wood. The summer trail does not cross the summit at the lowest place, but leaving the valley to the south, ascends and passes over an irregular plateau at a height of about 750 feet greater than the pass. This little plateau is quite evidently of the nature of a terrace, and its sui'face is strewn with water-worn and transported stones and boulders. Its height above the sea is about 4300 feet. The dense forest which has oi-iginally tilled the valleys here gives place to clumps of stunted trees, with thick rapidly tapering stems, composed of many superposed annual rings of growth. On June 26th the snow had evidently not long gone from the ground and the low-growing willows were just leafing out. Sti-eamlets ran everywhere upon the surface from one little moss-rimmed pool to another. At greater elevations on the surrounding mountains, very few trees are seen, and timber limit. 4500 feet may be stated as the upwai-d limit of the healthy growth of trees in this region. The highest peaks of the range separating the valleys of the Mountains. Watsonkwa and Skeena from that of Eabine Lake are passed about halfway from the mouth of the Oo-ats-anli to its sources, and lie to the west of the summit of the trail. A great rugged mass of moun- tains to the south occupies the angle between the Sus-kwa and Oo-ats- aidi. This receives the name of Ne-tal-tzul, which was translated to me as the ' watery mountain.' It has a height of about 8500 feet, and one or more small glaciers are observed among the mountains near it. The mountain sheep is found in this part of the range, but not very abundantly. The mountain goat is common to all the ranges of this region. Looking in the opposite direction from the summit plateau BabineBabine Lake Lake is seen stretching far to the south-eastward like a silver ribbon, its banks generally low with flats or rounded hills of moderate elevation bordering it. The weather at the time of our visit was not favourable for a very distant view, and only a portion of the snowy ranges which might otherwise have been seen to the south-east were visible. The descent to Babine Lake is rather gradual, over a somewhat broken surface chiefly composed of stony superficial deposits, not arranged in terrace poreat trees, form. The country is either densely wooded or bristling with wind- fall, the most abundant trees being Abies subalpina, Englm. (Jasiocarpa Hook), Picea Engelmanni, and Pinus contorta. Before reaching the lake the trail crosses a small river called the Tzesa-tza-kwa or Canoe- making river. This in low water was fifty feet wide by one foot deep, and derives its waters from the range from which we have descended, !i 1 ', h 24 b GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Lakes and Mountains of Northern British Columbia. Group of large lakes. watershed. !• DimeTisions t' m m 11' The group of large lakes of which Babine is one, may be regarded as occupying two parallel valleys, which conform to the general north- westerly and south-easterly bearings which govern the main features of the whole country lying between the Eocky Mountains proper and the coast. Babine Lake, for the greater part of its length, lies nearly parallel to the Watsonkwa valley, but at its southern end bends abi'uptly eastward, a wide valley running through from its extremit}^ to the head of Stuart Lake, The watershed between the Skeena and Eraser River Skeena-Fraser sj^tems is situated in this valley, Babine Lake discharging northward by the Babine River, which after following the general direction of the valley occupied by the lake for some distance, cuts across the line of the Babine Mountains and reaches the Skeena; Stuart Lake discharging by the Stuart River into the Nechacco and thence to the Eraser. The valley of Stuart Lake opens widely at its south-eastern extremity to the low country of the Nechacco and Chilacco. Stuart Lake occupies the south-eastern part of the second or north- fakes*'*'''* of eastern of the great valleys above referred to ; and to the north-west of it in the same line lie Trembleur, Tacla and Bear Lakes. Stuart Lake is about forty miles in extreme length, Tacla forty-six miles and Bear Lake about twelve miles, while the dimensions of Trembleur, Traverse or Cross Lake are not known. Trembleur and Tacla Lakes discharge south-eastward into Stuart Lake, while Bear Lake forms the source of the Skeena. With the generally more mountainous character of the country to the north the height of the water surface in the lakes increases being approximately as follows: Stuart Lake 2200, Tacla Lake 2271, Bear Lake 2604. Thutage or Thutade Lake still further to the north is scarcely known. It is probably the same with a long lake sketched by Mr. Madden, a prospecter in that region, and may lie in the continuation of the same persistent valley. It discharges into the south branch of the Finlay, and a fall of 180 feet in height is reported to exist not far below its outlet. The Babine Mountains form a well defined range from the northern bend of the Babine River (lat. 64° 40') to the vicinity of Eraser Lake to the south-east. They appear to culminate in height between the north bend of the Babine and the Babine and Skeena Eorks trail, and decrease in elevation in a south-eastward direction, departing grailually at the same time from the shore of Babine Lake and leaving a wide intervening low country. The entire region between Babine Lake and River, the north bend of the Skeena, Bear and Tacla Lakes is tilled with high and rugged Babine Moun tains. BRITISH COLUMBIA. 25 B 3 regarded 3ral noi'th- in features proper and lies nearly Is abruptly to the head i-aser River northward tion of the B line of the discharging raser. The xtremity to nd or north- e north-west kes. Stuart X miles and ■ Trembleur, Tacla Lakes ke forms the us character in the lakes 2200, Tacla still further with a long on, and may t discharges in height is the northern iM-aser Lake between the rks trail, and departing and leaving le north bend h and rugged Mountains. Limestone mountain ranges. The Atna or Atnah* Mountains lying north of theAtnaMoun- Babine Eiver rise according to Mr. Iloretzky to elevations of 9000 feet, and the summit of the Atna Pass by which they are crossed is 6000 feet. Bordering Tacla Lake on the south-west is a massive range which as it is crossed by the Fire-pan Pass may be designated pire-pan the Fire-pan Range. Its summits are 7000 to 8000 feet in height. Further north near Bear Lake this range appears to become less homo- geneous and more broken, but still continues as a high rugged moun- tainous country. South of the latitude of the southern end of Tacla Lake the region between the two valleys defined in a j)receding para- graph, is not so mountainous, and though still broken the elevations seem seldom to exceed 4000 feet. To the east of Stuart Lake lies a range of limestone mountains which . can be traced running far to the north-westward from high points in range, that vicinity. According to the best accounts of the country about Trembleur Lake, the range must there be low^ or wanting, but further north it resumes ::8 the Omenica Mountains on the east side of Tacla Lake, and forms also the mountains on the east side of Bear Lake. Thig range is by no means so high and rugged as those previously described, Na-katl, which forms its south-eastern extremity, has a height of 4800 feet, while thellogem Pass leading across to the Omenica gold region was proved by Mr. Horetzky to have an elevation of only 3438 feet. Still further to the east and north-east is the Omenica mining omenica region, which is a relatively depressed but still hilly and mountainous'"®*^"'"' district. Hogem on the Omenica River has an elevation of 2570 feet, while the mouth of Germansen Creek is at 2457 feet. The country between the Omenica River from Stuart to McLeod Lake has not been explored, but no high ranges are known to exist. Babine and Stuart Lakes. Babine Lake has been so called by the French or half-breed servants jj^^^ „f of the Noi'th West or Hudson Bay Companies in allusion to the fact ^"'''"^ ^''®- that the Indians living on it had the custom of wearing a wooden labret or lip-piece in the lower lip. This custom though common on the coast is not elsewhere found among the Carrier orTinneh people of the interior, and has doubtless been a fashion acquired by them from the Tshimsians. The lake is known as Kit-koin by the Tshimsians, by the Carriers as Na-taw-bun-kut or 'long lake.' While lying in the main in a north-west and south-east bearing the actual course of the lake iSQeneral fea- rather sinuous. Its length is eighty-seven miles, while its width varies *""*' * This is the name applied by the Tinneh people of British Columbia to any foreign Indians. The Atna Pass is here so called as being that used by the Coast Indians as an avenue to the interior country. n 26 GEOLOaiCAt StRVEY OP OANAT)A. r Northern por tion of lake. from half a mile to five or six miles. The elevation of the lake above the sea is about 2222 feet, or twenty-two feet greater than Stuart Lake* On the east side of the lake, near its outlet, is situated an Indian village called Wut-at, and a small trading post of the Hudson Salmon fishery. Bay Company. The Indians take hero annually a large quantity of sal- mon by forming a weir of split sticksacross the river. The salmon are dried and stored in a eacAe raised on posts in the usual way, and kept for home use or to sell to travelling parties of Indians on the way between the coast and the Omenica Mines. The canoes used in the interior lakes arc far inferior to those of the coast Indians, a fact arising in part from the absence of the cedar which the coast tribes employ. Cottonwood 'dugouts,' small, narrow, slab-sided and often more or less seriously warped and out of shape on account of exposure to the sun and air, are in general all that can be obtained. On the 20th of June we left the north end of the lake in two such canoes, and being favoured with good weather reached the opposite or south- eastern extremity on the morning of July 3rd. From the north end of the lake to Na-tal-kuz — a distance of twenty- five miles — it is narrow, and much more sinuous and irregular in width than the sketches which have heretofore ap])eared on the maps would lead one to suppose. It has also the appearance, in this part of its length, of being quite shallow. The banks rise often to a height of 100 to 200 feet pretty steeply, and then slope more gently away to the hills which do not anywhere in the vicinity of the lake reach 1000 feet. Considerable areas are quite flat and low, and on southern exposures large tracts have been thoroughly burnt over forming slopes of rich pasturage. In many places the timber is more than half composed of aspen second-growth, and the coniferous are everywhere relieved by a mixture of deciduous trees. In passing down the lake, occasional glimpses of the high and snowy mountains which intervene between it and the Watsonkwa are caught. Several of the peaks attain 8000 feet, but after leaving the north end of the lake a wide stretch of comparatively low land intervenes between the shore and the base of the range. To the north-east is seen from a few points the wall-like and cloud-capped range across which the Fire-pan Pass leads. This surpasses the last-mentioned range in general elevation, and is everywhere heavily snow-covered. Na-tal-kuz is the name of a second Indian village, situated on the north side of the lake, at the extremity of a point which lies between High moun tains. Na-tal-kuz. * It should be stated that a considerable discrepancy exists between the height here stuted and that given by Mr. Horotz.ky. I have been unable to explain this ditferenco, for while I feel sure that the diQ'oronce between Stuart Lake and liabine here given is nearly correct, Mr. lIoret7,ky's estimate scums to be founded on a number of correct observations. The height assigned by Mr. Horetzky is 1047 above Skeeua Forks, or assuming that point to be 72& feeti 2372 feet above the sea. BRIflSIt COlUMfitA. 27 b it and a long arm running to the north-eastward. The surrounding region, and a prominent and nearly conical hill which stands a few miles back from the village are denoted by the same name. The village is also called Ni-to-at/., but this is a comparatively modern name and refers to a trading post of the Hudson Bay Company. This post is the most important on the lake, that at the north-east end being only occasionally visited. Both are at present in charge of Mr. Sanspere, who proved able and willing to give much valuable informa- tion on the surrounding country. From this point the lake runs nearly due south-eastward for about Southern por- ,1... .1 X .,,. ,. .1.1. tionoflake. thirty-hve miles. Its width is greatly increased, and while its south- west shore shows little irregularity of outline, its north-eastern border forms two deep bays and is fringed by numerous islands. The shores continue on the whole low, though a rampart-like range of hills 800 to 900 feet in height runs along the north-east side, beyond the bottoms of the bays above referred to for eighteen or twenty miles from Nu-tal-kuz. To the east of this is a low region through which a trail was at one time opened to Trembleur Lake, as a means of access to Omenica. At a little distance from the shore on both sides hills 700 to 800 feet in height appear as projections on the flat or undulating country of less elevation. There is as before much lightly-wooded and aspen-covered country, and if the climate is suitable, there is evidently here a wide stretch of land favourable in soil and contour ibr farming. The rainfall appears to become less as the lake is followed to the south- Dougiaa fir. eastward. A few specimens of Artemisia frigida appear with the Douglas fir, and other plants not before observed. At its upper end the lake turns to a south-south-east bearing and Head of the eventually for aboxit twelve miles runs nearly due east. Its average width for twenty or twenty-five miles, is three and a half to four miles. It is evidently very deep, and the Indians say that this part of the lake does not freeze across in winter. With the appearance, of Ter- tiary volcanic i-ocks, which here occur tilted at various angles, the country becomes somewhat more rugged, and the land bordering the lake is higher. There are still, however, on the north shore some fine gi'assy slopes, while the south in more densely wooded. A remarkably abrupt rocky hill of 600 to 700 feet high stands on the south side of the lake at its extremitj^ This is called Te-tzal-to. East of it is a wide low valley running to the south-east (S 55° E. 10 miles or more) from which a large stream flows. A small lake lies some way up it, according to Indian report, and a trail runs through Portage, to the Stella Indian village at the head of Eraser Lake.* A low tract. •See Report of Progress 1876-77, p. 40. Yi-ko River. Stuart Luke. 28 b Tache and Pinchi Rivers. Limestone range. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. being the continuation of that in which the lakes lie, also leads through from the extremity of Babine Lake to Stuart Lake. The length of the portage, or actual dloiance over which goods have to bo carried, is about seven and a half miles, and the Hudson Bay Company have con- structed a moderately good waggon track between the lakes. The country passed over is undulating and appears to consist of wide terraced flats or benches, through which little rocky and gravely hills project. The summit is about 400 feet above Babine Lake, the valley some four miles wide between the steeper slopes, with a soil which though in some places good, is generally light. About one-third of the area may be regarded as suitable for agriculture. Most of the wood has been destroyed by fire, but the western scrub pine (^Pinus contorta) appears to have been the most abundant tree. The portage trail ends at the mouth of a little sluggish river, less than one hundred feet wide, called the Yi-ko, which rises in a small lake to the north westward. The latitude of the point, at which the portage road ends at the mouth of the Yi-ko was found to be 55° 36' 22". Stuart Lake or Na-kas-le, from the mouth of the Yi-ko south- eastward, is a fine sheet of water thirty-one miles in length, and about five miles in width in most places. Its north-western end is some- what contracted and surrounded by mountains 1000 to 2000 feet high. It sends off a narrow arm or fioi-d in a north-westward direction, for a distance of probably ten miles or more, which distance might be added to the length as above stated. A short portage leads across from this arm to Trembleur Lake. The outline of the shore lino about the north- western end of the lake is ragged, and there are many small islands, while to the east it runs in wide sweeping curves, and the water is evidently not so deep. Besides the Yi-ko, two streams of some size known as the Tache and Pinchi, flow into the lake. The first of these comes from Trembleur or Cross Lake, which in turn receives the water of Tacla Lake. It is by this route that goods are carried by the Hudson Bay Company from Fort St. James to their post on Bear or Connelly Lake in latitude 56° 6'. The Pinchi, also from the north, is smaller, and rises in a lake not many miles from Stuart Lake, and which appears to occupy a parallel valley. The peak Na-katl, 4800 feet in height, and its surrounding i-ugged limestone mountains, which touch on the north shore of the lake at its eastern extremity, have been described in former reports. The continuation of this range, running north-westward, altogether leaves the lake at the mouth of the Pinchi River. The land here becomes low and level, and is lightly wooded with aspen, mixed with coniferous trees. The south-western shore of the lake is pretty closely bordered by high hills, and as usual more densely wooded ; but the BRITISH COLUMBIA. 29 b agregate area of cultivable land muHt be considorablo. The Douglas fir Ih quite abundant round the shoren of Stuart Lake, and I wan informed on good authority, that it oxtonds northward to near the middle of Tacla Lake, CLIMATE OF THE LAKES. The northern or lower extrenaily of Babine Lake being more closely Agrioulturo. hemmed in by wnow-clad mountaiuH, is evidently less favourably situated than the remainder of this lake and Stuart Lake, ami vegetation was found to be decidedly behind that of the Sus-kwa valley. Mr. Sanspero of the Hudson Bay Conpany, states thrt at the post at Na-tal-kuz, on Babine Lake, ho can grow potatoes and many kinds of vegetables, and that his predecessor grew barley, which ripened well. An Indian living on the portage between the two lakes cultivates a little patch of land, and though very poorlj' attended to, ho had a fine looking crop of potatoes and a little lield of barlej' — the latter about three feet high and with the ear just appearing — at the date of our visit (July 4th). lie also keeps some cattle here, cutting hay for them in swamps about the river mouth. At Fort St. James wo found potatoes flourishing, but rather late, having been cut down by a frost in Juno. Barley was doing well, and has been grown as a regular crop for many years.* In the ^ garden were peas, lettuce, beets, carrots, onions, garlic, turnips, cab- bages and cauliflowers, doing well enough, but not carefully cultivated. Wheat has been sown this year as an experiment, and had not suffered from frost at the date of our visit (July 7th). Temperature observations ke2)t while on Babine and Stuart Lakes, Temperature. — June 2'7th to July 8th — gave a mean minimum temperature of 40-2°. The mean of the early morning and evening observations being 5r5°. The temperature is here subject to greater and more rapid changes than in the Skeena valley, and on the night of June 29th we experienced a frost, the thermometer registering 26° near the northern end of Babine Lake, and in the vicinity of the snow-clad mountains already referred to. In the valley of Babine and Stuart Lakes the summer season seems summer frosts, to be sufficiently long, and the absolute amount of heat great enough to bring all ordinary crops, including wheat, to maturity, but the question remains to what extent the liability to summer frosts may interfere with the cultivation of some plants, more especially wheat. Though this valley may be regarded as a continuation of the country of the Lower Nechacco, its vicinity to the mountains appears to ren- der it somewhat inferior to that district in climate, and places it in this regard, in my opinion, nearly in the same position with the country * Report of Progress Qeol. Survey of Canada, 1876-77, p. 51. Ub ^ytm 30 b OEOLOGICAL 8UEVEY OP CANADA. Nonhaoco Diuiin. Subdivisions of tho Tinneh. Population of villages. bordering on" Francois Lako. In proviouH roiports.f I have dcHcribed the flat country of tho Lower Nochacco baMin aH conHtituting the greatcHt connected region Hiiscoptiblo of cultivation in tho province of British Cohimbia. Its area ban been OHtitnated at 1000 square miloH. It is based on tine wliito siity doposits of tho later portion of the glacial period, constituting a soil almost uniforiuly fertile, and is remote from high snow-clad ranges. In the absence of further infoi-mation, 1 can merely repeat what was said of this region on a former occasion, viz., that while it is not probable that wheat can be grown over all parts of its area, it can scarcely be doubted that barley may be ripened almost everywhere in it, while wheat would succeed in chosen spots. This region will, doubtless, at some time support a considerable population, [jut it is to be remarked tliat the passage of a railway thi-ough it would do little at present toward settling it; for in the first instance, tho country to the east of the Kocky Mountains, in the Peace Eiver or Saskatchewan valleys, would otter superior inducements to iiirmors and stock raisers. INDIAN POPULATION OF NORTHERN milTISII COLUMBIA. The Tinneh Indians of this northern part of the interior of British Columbia aro divided by dialect into two great groups, known as the Porteurs or Carriers, and the Siccanies. Tho Carriei-s extend on tho Frasor as far down as Soda Creek, near tho mouth of the Chilcotin. They inhabit tho valley of tho Hlackwatei-, and stretch westward to Gatcho Jjako and the Coast Range, Frasor, Stuart, and Babine Lakes and tho VVatsonkwa valley; north of Fort St. James to Middle River, and east to Fort McLood and the Frasor River, above Fort Geoi-go to about 120° 30' of longitude. Tho Siccanies lie to the north and east of the Carriers, occupying tho west part of Tacia Lako and the region about Bear or Connolly Lako. They extend up the North Finlay about seventy-five miles and down tho main stream of the Peace River to Hudson's Hope. North of tho Siccanies and toward tho coast, aro the Na-ha-nies, who aro said to speak a diftorent dialect, while the Indians still further north, about Cassiar, aro said to be again diflcront. The Na-taw-tln or people of Babine Lake, number about 300. The Na-has-le-tln, or people of Stuart Lake, are divided as follows : — Villages at Port St. James, 75 ; at Pinchi River, 40 ; at Tacho River, 32. At Grand Rapid, ten miles up tho Tache, aro tho Kus-che-o-tin, now num- bering 22 souls; at Stony Creek, south of the Nochacco, aro tho Ta-tshik-o-ttn, numbering 24; at Nool-ke Lako, the Nool-k^otin num- bering 56 ; of the Nau-tle-a-tln and Stel-atln, of Frasor Lake, I did not learn the number. There are no permanent villages on Francois Lake, t Report of Progress Qeol. Survey of Canada. 1876-77, p. 45, Canadian Pacific Railway Report, 1877. p. 252. BRITISH COLUMBIA. 31 B that part of tho country belonging to the Watsonkwa people who visit it periodically. 8TIJART LAt E TO MCLEOD'b I.AKK. At Fort St. JamoM wo met tho puck trainw, which hud boon sent ft'om yt^'j,!',,^^'' Kamloopw, and by meunH of which our nupplicH for the proMcculion of tho Hurvey in tho I'oaco llivor country wore to bo truiisportod. Wo loft Fort St. Jamos on July 8th, the combined parties UjL^f^roi^ating Hoventy-four pack and twenty-two riding aiiimalH, and reached Fort McLeod at tho north end of McLeod'8 Lake on the 1-ilh. This partof the route being tho same with that traversed by Mr. Selwyn in 1875, and by Mr. J. Hunter in 1877*; and having already been described by them, need not bo referred to here in groat detail. Tho region as a whole is flat, and chai-acterizcd rather by low ridges and terraces than by hills. Its eastern part di'ains toward Stuart Lake, but the greatest area is unwatored by tho Salmon River and its tributaries, which flowing southward joins the Fraser near Fort George. Fast of the Salmon Kiver lies tho Pacific and Arctic, watershed beyond which tho Long Lake River — a small stream — is found flowing toward McLood's Lake. On leaving Stui rt Lake tho ground rises gradually till country east a height of 400 toot is gained at eight ov nine miles from the Lake." °'""' *• Tho surface is generally undulating, has been frequently burnt over, and show.s Hno grassy meadows, suitable for cultivation. From this place to the crossing of Salmon River, tho country consists of undulating uplands, tho highest point of which is about 700 feet above Stuart Lake. Carrier Lake, two and a half miles long, is passed to tho loft, besides several other small ponds. These in«y carrier Lake occupy original inequalities in tho surface of the drift deposits with which tho surfjico is hero heavily covered, the material being a sandy clay with stones and boulders like that called ' boulder-clay ' elsewhere in British Columbia. At tho oast end of Carrier Lake, are some remarkable ridges which resemble moraines, but are composed of sand. The Salmon Rivor is here a stream about fifty foot wide by two Salmon River, deep, with a gentle current. The latitude of tho point at which the trail first touches it is 54° 36' 20". From Salmon River to Swamp River, so called, a sluggish tributary of tho former, the distance is ton miles, tho country resembling that above described, but being rather more broken and irregular, and quite useless agriculturally. Between Swamp River to the narrows of Lac a la Carp, or Carp Lake — twelve carp Lake, miles — the Pacific-Arctic watershed is crossed, with an elevation of Paoiflo-Arotio 620 feet above Stuart Lake, or taking tho latter at 2200 feet— 2820 foet ^*'*"'""^- above tho sea. The watershed region is characterized by the groat Report of Progress, 1875-76, p. 34. Canadian Pacific Railway Report, 1878, p. 73. ■tiMili MB! 32 B OEOLOQIOAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Long Lake. hi •i ::i spread of nearly level or slightly undulating terrace flats. Those are generally sandy or gravelly, with occasional level ground occupied by swamps and small laUe.s. Pmwacontorfa is common, generally growing in a scattered manner, and rather stunted from the poor soil. Lupinm polyphiUus, j)urplo with blossom, was very abundant. Carp Lake has an elevation of 2747 feet. The ti-ail crosses it at the narrows, and it is necessary to unpack and swim the animals. Tt would be easy to make a trail round the northern bay, which would avoid this trouble and the subsequent travelling in the water round the border of the lake. Carp Lake flows into Tjong Lake, a j)retty little sheet of watei- with banks rising steeply to about one hundred feet, and a hill 500 or 600 feet high on the south side. Long Lake River, a small stream, is crossed by the trail at the lower end of the lake. L-oquois Creek, a small brook — so called from the murder of an Iroquois hero by the fort St. James Indians many years ago — is then crossed. Its valley is deep and to the south of the trail are large swampy meadows with flne feed. Iroquoia Lake. Beyond Iroquois Creek a series of mounds and ridges are passed over, and the trail then descends gradually, over dry sandy or gravelly slopes and terraces, which are for the most part covered with burnt woods, to the edge of McLeod's Lake. At the border of the lake the Long Lake River is again crossed at its mouth. It is hero about lifty feet wide by two deep with a rapid current. The ridges several times referred to, are rather remarkable in char- actor, and often strongly resemble moraines. Near the oast end of Carp Lake are some peculiar depressions, in some instances nearly circular and over one hundred foot deep, occasionally holding pools. The surrounding country is a mass of ridges which however have no very constant direction, the whole being composed of gravel, or mate- rial like that above referred to as boulder clay. In the vicinity of Ix'oquois Creek these ridges are particularly noticeable and are associated with little terraces which generally seem to occupy lower levels and to have been later in date of formation. Region without The Country between Stuart and McLeod's Lakes is thus somewhat value?"""''' higher than the Nechacco and Chilacco country to the south, and quite different in character, wanting the extensive deposits of white silt which there form a fertile soil. The soil is here generally light, sandy or gravelly, and is at present covered for the most part by burnt woods. A considerable area would doubtless bo available for pasture land if the forest were completely removed by fire, and there are numerous swamps and meadows along streams yielding natural hay. The region cannot however be considered as of any agricultural value. It formerly yielded large numberof skins, of marten, mink and other forest-inhabit- forest fires, ing animals, but since the extensive spread of fires — some of the most Moraines. BBITIHU OOI.rMHrA. 33 b ThoHe are ;;cupiotl by y growiiif^ . Ijupinus Lako has 'H, and it i« ny to mako trouble and )f' the lako. Avator with ,)!• GOO feet I, irt croHsod 3ok, a Hmall the Fort St. Hoy in deep th tine food. pasHod over, voUy sloport nt woodH, to I Long Lako foot wide by Able in char- east end of mces nearly :)lding pools, over have no vol, or mato- 3 vicinity of jlo and are )ccupy lower 18 somewhat th, and quite )f white silt light, sandy burnt woods, iisturo land if ,re numorous The region It formerly 'orost-inhabit- of the most important of which occurred about ton years ago — fur-bearing aninialH, with the exception of tho boar, have been scarce. A frost was oxpo- rioncod on Iroquois Creek on tho night of July 13th, my thermometer going down to 27°. No frost occurred however at Fort McLood nine ■* miles off and between four and five hundred foot lower. The Douglas tir finds its eastern limit in this region near McLood's Veteution. Lake, and is not found on the lower part of tho Parsnip. Abies subal- pina is abundant in cold swampy spots on the route between Stuart and McLeod's Lakes. Pachystima Mijrsinites, common on tho Skoona, re- appears in abundance in tho vicinity of McLood's Lako. On tho dry land near L-oquois Crook the berries of Shepherdia Canadensis were beginning to redden and Epibbuirn anyustifotium to flower on July 12th. MoLeod's Lake and Misinciiinca RiVEa. McLeod's Lake is according to Mr. Selwyn sixteen or seventeen MoLeod'H Lake miles long, with an average breadth of about two miles. Its elevation by comparative readings is nearly that of Stuart Lake, or taking that of Stuart Lake at 2200, it may bo stated as 2250. It lies in a north- north-west by south-south-oast bearing, and may be regarded as mark- ing at this place the line of junction of tho interior i)lateau of the west- ern part of British Columbia, with the western foot hills of the Rocky Mountain Range. From tho higher undulating country to the weot, a wide view embracing numerous rounded ridges to the eastward is obtained, and in the distance to the south-eastward mountains were seen bearing some snow in July. The immediate shores of the lake are bordered by low hills and ridges almost everywhere densely wooded. The latitude of the Hudson Bay post, situated near the outlet of the FortMoLeod. lake at its northern extremity, was determined by Mr. Webster, who accompanied Mr. Selwyn in 1875, as 55° 0' 7". An observation by myself on the 15th of July last makes the latitude 55° 0' 2". In the garden at Fort McLeod we found at the date of our visit some ordinary vegetables growing well. The potatoes had been cut down by frost in June, but had recovered completely. The soil about the fort is, how- ever, poo" and little attention is paid to cultivation. D. W. Harmon, whore ' in the northern part of British Columbia, or 'New Cale- donia,' 1 ome time — trading I believe for the North-West Company — in his ' \ oyages and Travels' published at Andovor, Mass., 1820, states that snow generally falls about Fort St. James and Fort McLood about Climate and the 15th of November and is all gone about the 15th of May. The snowfall is said to be greater about McLeod's Lake than about Stuart Lake, reaching sometimes a depth of five feet, a fact confirmed 9 1 ' , 'i y mmir 34 b GEOLOGICAL SURVEY 01' CANADA. Pack River. Confluence of Pack and Par- snip Kivors. i!^ t ill by tho8C now acquainted with the region. At Fort St. Jamet* the 8now reaches a depth of about three feet. The river issuing from McLcod's Lalve, known as the Pack River, is from 150 to 200 foot wide, and had an average depth of about two feet in July last. It does not appear to be Kubjoct to heavy floods and carries clear brownish water derived from swamps and springs. It flows northward about fifteen miles to its junction with the Parsnip River, which joins it from the south-east. The tongue of land Ijing between the two rivers is mountainous opposite the enu of McLeod's Lake, rising to a height of from 1500 to 2000 feet above the water. At about seven miles north of Fort McLood these mountains end, and a plateau or terrace-flat with an average elevation of about 130 feet stretches from the expansion of the Pack River known as Lac la Truite or Tutia Lake across to the Parsnip near the mouth of the Misinchinca. The summit on this line is, according to Mr. J. Huntei', 250 feet above Lac la Truite. This flat country is sandy and gravely and not well adapted to agriculture. It falls northward toward the junction of the two rivers in a succession of benches of which some of the lower may be more fertile. The terrace-flat comes out on the bank of the Parsnip with its full height, and is found in scai-ped banks to be formed of gravel chiefly composed of quartzite fragments and covered ovor with fine yellow sandy soil. Evidence of increasing rainfall is found in the country to the east, as compared with that to the west of McLeod's Lake. The sandy and gravelly flats above i-efoi-red to are characteristically clothed with the western sci-ub pine {Pinus con- torta) but on the slopes and in valleys this tree is mingled with spruce ( Picea Engelanni and Abies suhalpina), aspen and bii-ch ; while the devil's club (Echinopanax horrida) again begins to abound. Parsnip River. The Parsnip Eiver at the mouth of the Misincbinca is, according to comparative baramoter readmgs, 2170 feet above the sea. It has a width of 500 feet, and at the date of our visit (July 19) was full from bank to bank. The current is rapid, averaging probably three or four miles an hour, the waters being brownish and muddy and evidently in great part derived from melting snow. Above this place the Parsnip has not been explored since the date of Sir Alexander Mackenzie's visit, in June, 1*793. He ascended the stream to its sources and portaged his canoe across to a small river running toward the Fraser. From his account it would appear that there are very high mountains about its head and probably true glaciers. This seems to bo confirmed by the small possible drainage area of the river compared to the volume of water it carries. In the autumn, I was informed, the Parsnip is much reduced in size and meanders between wide gravel bars. Sources unex plored. Ml BRITISH COLUMBIA. 35 B The crossing of the Parsnip was accomplished on July 19th, the cross the Pars- animals swimming the river, without accident, while the aparejos out for Dame- and packs were ferried across in a boat which had been obtained from **"" the Hudson Bay Company at Fort McLeod. The gentlemen connected with the railway survey then began their descent of the Parsniji^ind Peace Rivers, in the boat just mentioned, while I set out next morning by land for our rendezvous at Dunvegan, which pi-oved to be at a distance of two hundred miles, and was not reached till the 16th of August. Mr. Joseph Hunter had in 1877 made a reconnoissance of the jyjr. Hunter's Pine River Pass for railway purposes, a short account of which is exploration, published in the Canadian Pacirtc Railway Report of 1878. Having penetrated eastward to about longitude 120° 30', the season being far advanced and the country very difficult, he turned back by the way he had come. He had with him a small pack-train lightly loaded and did no more chopping than was absolutely necessary, travelling for many miles in the bed of the river. His trail was of some little service, but having now such a large number of animals, comprising Messrs. Gamble & McLeod's supply trains as well as my own, we were obliged to do much work in chopping, brushing swamps, and bridging streams along all parts of the route. The country on the east bank of the Parsnip is all densely wooded country at or covered with windfall or bride. The surface rises gradually, or in Mislnchfnca. a succession of low steps for a distance of six to eight miles, when mountains 1500 to 2000 feet in height above the river appear. Follow- ing the south bank of the Misinchinca we ptvssod over sandy and gravelly benches which are generally less than 100 feet above the stream and are covered with western scrub pine of small size. The undergrowth includes a small blue-berry a Houstonia and frequent patches of grey or white moss. Though the extent of flat land about the mouth of the Misinchinca and bordering this part of the Parsnip is considerable, it is scarcely to be regarded as of any agricultural value. The Misinchinca River is tortuous and not 7ery rapid, with swampy flats covered with black spruce and other moisture-loving plants on the inner sides of its bonds, while the opposite bank is usually formed by the scarped edge of a gravelly terrace, of which the stones are glossy schists and quartzites. At ten or twelve miles up the Misinchinca the terraces above Misinchinca described come to an end, and the mountains which now bound the ^"'®''' valley continuously, slope down on each side of the river-flat. The flats have generally a width of about a mile and the river flows through them with a very crooked course. The- luxuriant growth of devil's club, ferns, moss and lycopodium indicate a humid climate. Willows and tall dark groves of spruce immediately border the i*iver. ■MA I m if! ■il mum Misinchinca TTpper Misin- ohiuoa. Vegetation. 36 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Following Mr. Hunter's example, we crossed the MiHinchinca about eighteen miles from its mouth in latitude 55° 14' 39", as the river here touches the hills on the left of the valley, and the slopes being rugge ' md thi(^ly tree-clad present great diflSculty to travel with loaded mL> : Eight miles above the crossing, the Atunatche stream joins the Misinchinca, which is here found coming from the south-eastward, while a massive range of limestone mountains, attaining elevations of from 5000 to 6000 feet above the sea, appear to block further passage to the north-eastward. From the crossing to the mouth of the Atunatche the Misinchinca valley continues as a flat-bottomed trough never less than eight-tenths of u mile in width. The river is vcr}' crooked and though much obstructed with drift-wood is not very rapid till within about two miles of the Atunatche, It then changes its character, flow- ing swiftly ovo" coarse gravel and boulders and spreading widely in seasons of flood thi-ough 'sloughs' and alternative channels by which the valley bottom is cut up. Most of the land in the bottom of the valley is elevated only a few feet above the river and some of it is evidently liable to overflow. The mountains at the sides of the valley rise boldly to heights of 25C0 or 3000 feet above it in some instances, and are densely tree-clad with the exception of the highest points. Large trees of black spruce and cotton wood occur in some places, several of the latter being observed to attain five feet in diameter. The vegetation continues to assume a more alpine character, the undergrowth includ- ing Veratrum album, Lmicera involucrata, devil's club, alder, elder and various ferns. The elevation of the mouth of the Atunatche is 2500 feet. North-west and South-eoRt valley. THE PINE PASS AND PINE RIVER. The valley which is occupied by the lower part of the Misin- chinca may be said to come to an end at the mouth of the Atu- natche, inosculating with a second which runs in a north-north- west by south-south-east course parallel to the mtiin direction of flexiiio €xLr\ elcv^ation in this part of the Rocky Mountains. It marks in a general way the junction of the schistose and slaty beds so far met with, with the massive limestones of the axis of the mountains which appear to underlie them. To the south- south-eastward this valley is occupied by the main stream of the Misinchinca, and was followed up for twenty-six miles by Mr, Hunter, who found it to end finally among high limestone mountains. In the opposite direction this depression becomes the Atunatche valley and further on that of the upper part of the Pine River, which after flowing north-north-westward for eleven miles, turns abruptly to the east- ward and finds its way to the Peace River below Fort St. John. In li I f 111 u m to I O o a 00 •3 o Q O 4 In n\ *! ! ■' Ml f 5 St., f v< ■ 'i i^: .^■'■iiv. J-.v ■■'( ' ■' ■ ■ ■ ■ - ' ...I'l !i:.> :^ ^K 1:;;!:% 1 » .■<^-... - •■•f ...":■, ;V¥- , «■■■. ', "^s'.?*^- ■ ■ ,'^^'^. ';'t '.••**' '/<■ ■ •■'I, b ■ ' ■ . r "(1 .1 »' f ■;■■.;'■«■•■>:;*'""*; -t'. { ,»■ . '•• ' ' V" - ^r '. ■Q . ■S-i^;..^.A ■•».^' :r '■..■.■^t; : ;"'-f ;■;■'■>..:'>■. --^ 1 ■i^• vi«i ■'.■'- ■'■i'.i' ''-r.i>i '••?-i .,'•' ;■.: . ):,! i>:'A^»^^, ■:,*;; -r ••ii;^>i ':! 'i;* 1 •Hf lit'' ^^.' ''•':? , 't'lFflfe -i'l ■A 7 "< BRITISH COLUMBIA. 37 B U ■.'' ■ I :-*■ ■( travelling northward across the summit one has the high axial lime- Limestone stone mountains already i-eferred to on the right hand with lower and °*"""''*"'^- more rounded mountains to the left. The limestone mountains form a regular wall-like range, the higher summits of which probably reach 6000 feet and still held considerable patches of snow in shady hollows, near the end of July. ' From the mouth of the Atunatche to the lower end of Azouzetta or Atunatohe Valley Summit Lake, a distance of three and three-quarter miles, the valley probably averages half a mile in width of flat ground or gentle slopes, with the exception of about half a mile near the mouth of the Atunatche where it becomes somewhat contracted, with steeply sloping side-hills. Mr. Hunter states the rise of the valley in this distance to be 270 feet while by my barometer on July 27th it appeared to be about 350, and this I believe to bo nearly correct. Azouzetta Lake is about a mile and a third in lensjcth and probably Summit or A^70UZ6tttS> three-quarters of a mile wide in some places. It is evidently shallow Lake, and holds one or two little wooded islets. Its south end is bounded by a low grassy flat. The lake drains into the Atunatche, but about three-fourths of a mile beyond its north-western or upper end a stream forming the source of Pino Eiver is found entering the valley from the mountains on its south-west side. This on the 28th of July was estimated to average twenty-five feet in width by six inches deep, with a rapid current. The space between the elbow which this J^*'^^'^'®'* »" stream makes in turning from its first course into that of the valley, and the head of Azouzetta Lake, is occupied by a series of swamps and beaver ponds with groves of thick and tangled spruce. This forms the actual watershed which is so low and undefined that it is probable water may run in both directions when the country is wet. In the detritus carried into the trough-like valley by the source of Pine Eiver and other little streams, the cause of the actual position of the watershed is probably to be found. The latitude of our camp at the summit, opposite the bend of the Latitude, sti'eam forming the source of Pine River, above referred to, was 55° 24' 17" by observation. Before leaving Stuart Lake we had arranged with Mr. Alexander, Heights deter- in charge of the Hudson Bay post there, to keep a record of the state SetrioaUy! of the barometer, for the purpose of comparison with observations to be taken on our way eastward. The readings kept by Mr. Alexander do not, however, show a very close correspondence with fluctuations ob- served by us, and were generally taken at intervals of some hours from our observations. By comparison with Mr. Alexander's readings, the 'height of the summit of Pine Pass is 2795 feet. I have subse- quently obtained from Mr. Horetzky a copy of his barometer observa- I 1 I- i -Is I'; ' 'ti i ii ! I ii < ■« •li. ! n k !i[ 1 38 B GEOLOarCAL SURVEY OP CANADA. I ^ > I. I .1 I 'I I'll Ml \'': Great bend in Pine River. "The Preci- pice." View from "the Precipice." Pall of the stream. Pine River Valley. tions on Babine Lake, and liy comparison with these, believe the true height of the pass to be 2850 feet, very nearly. Prom the upper end of Azouzetta or Summit Lake, the valley runs north-westward about eleven miles, then northward for two and a half miles, and next turning nearly duo east, eontimics in that direction for about nine miles. In thus following the Pine River from its source for a distance of over twenty miles, the actual distance gained from Azouzetta Lake and the summit, in a northerly direction, is about seven and a half miles only. The mountains included in this loop may be regarded as a part of the axis of the range, but decline in elevation north-westward from the vicinity of the summit to the bend of the river. Two miles from the head of Azouzetta Lake, a sudden drop in the level of the bottom of the valley occurs, being that which Mr. Hunter refers to in his report as " the precipice." This is produced by the outcropping edge of a bed of limestone which hero runs across the valley. The abrupt portion, which may be called a cliff, though never forming a sheer precipice, and generally more or less densely covered with trees, moss and bushes, with piles of fallen rock here and there, has a height of 130 feet above the flat bottom of the valley below it. The brook forming the source of Pine River follows the left or south- west side of the valley, descending through a little rocky gorge. The total descent from the summit of the pass to the flat at the base of the precipice, is about 158 feet, and this occurs in a distance of about a mile and a quarter. From the precipice a fine view down the valley is obtained. To the I'ight are limestone peaks probably rising 3000 feet above the stream, while on the left the mountains are much lower and more rounded. The slopes on both sides are gentle towards the bottom of the valley, and the hill sides do not appear to be much broken up by ravines or gullies, and little rock is seen except at a considerable height on the slopes. The bottom of the valley itppeura narrow, but on travelling down it, it is found to be straight, with cither flats or very light slopes continuously bordering the stream. Its average width is probably about a quarter of a mile. The toUil fall of the stream in a distance of about five and a half miles from the summit, including that part of the valley in which the precipice occurs, is about 207 feet. The valley is densely wooded, and occasional groves show large and fine trees. Acanitum Napelhis was observed to be abundant and in full flower. At tlio end of the north-western reach of the valley it has an average width of about half a m.ile, which it maintains with considerable uni- formity' for a distance of about eleven miles, or to the end of its eastern reach above referred to, where, opposite Canoe Mountain, it becomes m he true ay runs 1 a half ivoction i source 3d from 18 about )op may levation i of the p in the , Hunter L by the uross the Ejh never ' covered nd there, below it. or south- ge. The ,ae of the about a To the Q stream, ounded. le valley, avines or it on the travelling fht slopes probably istance of »art of the ) valley is iho trees. )\vor. m average rable uni- its eastern t becomes f4 El > s "8 ■3 0. d ill . If'/- n ij U3 ♦5 o fe ;^, 1^^ •4 i - 4 !''-'*.,:'■'> I--''!',: 'r'i • ;■<..• vt (.•.•"• 1 '1 't \i f> '■;.••,• s ■"'/ •- .%. ■ i> K c f.. «t' •' 'fc' if r ■.■f\.l ' .«"^ ■!■' ;•' . ' ,.,».-■.■ ■Ctf ■. '-"i -.I'll, "l ^ ■: «->T-.,'V:v. ' >■■ '■ n i't 'V '' ■'-4: ■ /*■: ■«, i 'f ■'■.■ :j',- "i f-f' v: '"'■••1. . ^■ 1:? -^€:>*!i>fc' '.:. ■• •'■- .■ • '/>/ . ■ *'.?■ , viS ■'I' ■;,,i!' ■ : '' v4: ":;•..■ • ■ «■• • "^iiu BRITISH COLUMBIA. 39 B 1l .,■:] 1 somewhat contracted, though pi-obably in no place less^than a quarter of a mile wide in the bottom. The valley is generally flat-bottomed, most of the flats being elevated but a few feet above the river. The slopes at the base of the hills are also as a rule light, and on the right bank no rocky blutt's project to the river. The river pursues a tortuous course, running over beds of flat pebbles of clean, silvery schist, with a current uniformly swift, but without any waterfalls or heavy rapids. Three tributary brooks were observed to join the main stream fromTribuUry 11 .I'll. streams. the south-west and west, between the summit and a point about thirteen miles down the valley. At fifteen miles from the summit, a tributary about half the size of the main stream, and estimated to average forty feet wide by six inches deep, enters from a wide valley which runs north-westward, and may be considered as forming the continuation of the main valley previously defined. Below Canoe Mountain the river turns to a north-eastward course, canoe Moun- and the older rocks characterizing the country from Fort McLeod to '*""' this place are replaced by Cretaceous sandstones. Agrici\|turally, the country passed over from Fort McLeod to this point is of very little value, for though there are limited areas suscept- ible of cultivation, they are quite insignifi ant as compared with the fertile regions to the eastward, and have probably an inferior climate. The valley of the Misinchinca appears to be well adapted for I'^ilway ^1^^^^.^^^^!. ^j. construction as far as the mouth of the Atunatchi. Assuming the rise "^« '*'"*• from this point to the summit to be 400 feet (which is probably a maximum,) the distance between the two points being about five miles only, it would probably be necessary to gain grade on the hillside forming the north bank of the Misinchinca. The hillside appears to be not unfavoi'able to this for a distance of about three miles below the Atunatchi, which would give a total distance of eight miles in which to overcome the ascent. The work would probably be moderately heavy throughout. In crossing the summit, a line should follow the south-west side of the valley, as the slopes there are light and not rocky. On the opposite side of the valley, the mountains being higher and for the most part bare, several " fans " of dibris occur, and there are also evidences of small snow-slides in winter. The descent from the precipice on the opposite side of the summit would also require to be accomplished on the south-west side of the valley, where the slopes are moderately light and regular. The bottom of the valley once gained, no further ditticulty would be encountered, with the exception of probable crossings of the stream to avoid curvature. For about sixteen miles from Canoe Mountain the valley takes a Valley below direct north-eastward course, and at this distance may be said to leave tain, the eastern foot-hills of the Eocky Mountains and to enter the plateau : / ,-vl :i I ■ -i - !!l 40 B Change in oli' mate. River floodi- Valley and plateau. Dry climate. OEOLOaiCAIi SURVEY OF CANADA. country. Near Canoe Mountain several summits rise to heights of 2000 to 3000 feet above the valley, but the mountains gradually decrease in elevation from that point, and at the edge of the foot-hills seldom reach a height of much more than 1000 feet. The rocks are chiefly sandstones, und from a much disturbed condition gradually become less and less sharply folded, till at the point above indicated as the edge of the foot-hills, they are horizontal or very nearly so. The width of the flat bottom of the valley averages half a mile till near the edge of the foot-hills, when it expands to about a mile. Gravelly benches forty to fifty feet high are occasionally seen, and considerable areas of the bottom of the valley are cultivable, though the hills at the sides are almost without soil, and show, even at a distance, the flexures of the sandstone rocks composing them. The climate changes in this part of the course of the river from the extreme humidity characteristic of the mountains, becoming much drier and warmer. In consequence of this, most of the river flats have been burnt over, and some are almost completely cleared by fire. Easpberries were abundant and ripe in such places on the 1st of August. The river appears when in flood to rise about five feet above its summer level in the upper part of this roach. Near the border of the foot-hills the floods rise about eight feet above the summer level, while the river at the time of our visit averaged about one hundred and seventy-five feet wide. The valley next runs a few degrees south of east for about seven miles, and then resumes its north-eastward course for sixteen miles. The average width of the valley is fully a mile in this part of its course, and in some places it may reach two miles. The plateau level is about 1000 feet above the valley bottom and generally presents serried ranks of dry whitened trees through which fire has passed once. In the fii'st eight miles of this part of the valley terraces constitute a particularly prominent feature, rising generally about 100 feet above the river, and being composed of gravel, tine sand or silt. A railway line would probably require to cross the river two or three times in this part of its course, as more or less degraded terraces occupy some of the bends which it makes in the valley. Horizontal beds of sandstone outcrop frequently in the hillsides. A. large portion of the bottom of the valley has been cleared by fire and is very fertile with a natural growth of pea-vine and grass as high as a horse's back. The northern bank of the valley is generally open and grassy and the dry character of the climate is evidenced by the occurrence of sage (Artemisia frigida) and FAeagnus argentea. Choke cherries, and the small wild red cherry were noticed here for the first time, and the service berries were found to be ripe on the 3rd of August. BftlTISH COLUMBIA. 41 fi ghts of lecrease seldom I chiefly become I as the 0. The near the jravelly iiderable hills at iuce, the changes lumidity warmer, irnt over, •ies were ['he river r level in t-hills the 3 river at r-five feet out seven en miles. ts course, is about ied ranks a the first ■ticularly iver, and ne would lis part of the bends le outcrop m of the ■al growth n bank of ,ter of the igida) and )d cherry rere found One considerable tributary joins the Pino River in this part of its Tributary course. It comes from the south-westward and must drain the country * '** between the main stream of Pino River which wo have followed down and the Sukunka or Middle Branch. It has projected a large ' fan' into the valley at its entrance, forcing the river over to the north side. From the point to which the description of Pine River valley has ^y^jjie lateral now been carried, the stream turns abruptly, and running south-south- ^*"®''* eastward for four miles joins the Sukunka. A wide trough-like valley, forming the continuation of that which Pino River has so far followed, runs on in a north-eastwani direction and may be followed across to the Pine River bolowtho Lower Forks. Near Pine River'it is about two miles in width and^it becomes wider and more diifuso, the hills at the sides decreasing in height, and the bottom sloping up gradually At the river it is floored by benches from 100 to 200 feet high, and from it flows a small tortuous stream. The part of the river above described as flowing south-south-east- Narrow valley, ward to join the Sukunka, occupies a valley which seems to be later in origin than that of the upper part of ^the [stream. It is com- paratively narrow, averaging probably about a mile between the bases of the steep slopes. Its bottom is chiefly formed by terraces of silt 100 to 200 feet above the river, and is broken by many and deep trans- verse gullies. The river is somewhat tortuous, and owing to the fact that the scarped fronts of the terraces come out to the bank, it would probably be necessary to cross it two or three times with a rail- way line. Its width is from 150 to 200 feet. The length involving rather heavy work on this part of the line is about two and a-half miles. Avery fine view up the valley of the Sukunka or Middle Branch Sukunka or may be obtained from the edge of the plateau above the valley at the the foi'k. The valley of the Sukunka Is an important one, quite equal in size to that of the main stream above the constricted portion just described, and generally resembling it. The river pursues a devious course bordered by wide flats and occasional gently sloping 'fans' projecting from the sides of the valley, which are sometimes bare but are generally covered with thickets of young aspen and pine which have grown-up after fire. The valley runs in a direction a few degrees west of south for about ten miles, when it appears to turn more to the east. Its average width exceeds a mile, and there is thus probably at least ten square miles of fertile land in sight in this part of its length, with grazing grounds on the slopes and hills above which might be greatly improved [and extended by burning off the woods more 'completely. At a'distance of twenty or thirty miles off" to the southward some ; il -v. ■'•/;. 42 n Snowy moun- tains. Plateau at Middle Forks. Latitude and height. Valley below Middle Forks- Canon. (iKoIiOaiCAL SURVEY OP CANADA. mountains wore soon, with Hmall patches of Hnow Htill (AuguHt 6) clinging to them ; but no bare and i-uggod poaiiH like thoHe forming the axial range of the Rocky MountainH wore in Hight, A flat with an area of probably 1000 acres occurs at the fork. It is in part sandy and gravelly, but she mIso wide meadows covered with luxuriant herbage f<>rming fine /age for animals. The plateau above tn^ river valley is here partly open but generally covered with young pine and aspen, or with burnt forest not yet replaced by new growth. Much good summer grazing land exists but the eurl'ace is probably not adapted to agriculture. The general char- acter of this part of the country is that of a high broken plateau traversed by wide generally trough-like valleys I'ising to a hilly or even mountainous region toward the main range. The land in the valleys appears generally to be well suited for cultivation, while the slopes and summit of the ])lateau will constitute good stock ranges. The Middle Branch appears to be about equal in volume to. the main stream. The latitude of our camp on the flat above referred to was found to be 55° 37' 23", making the approximate latitude of the actual confluence of the river '5° 30' 23". The Pine River at the Forks is 624 feet above the k ^ the Peace River at Dunvegan or about 1930 feet above the sea.* From this point the river turns again to a north-eastward course nearly parallel with the direction of its upper portion, and in eighteen miles reaches its confluence with the East Branch. For eleven miles the valley is open, though probably averaging less than a mile in width. Ten-aces extend several hundred feet up the sides of the valle}^, but are difficult to identify in many cases owing to the outcrop of horizontal beds of sandstone. Extensive slides have also occurred, producing in some places sharp ridges parallel to the sides of the valley. These are all, however, of old date and now show no signs of motion. The valley is a.so somewhat cut up by ' sloughs ' and the terraces occasionally front directly on the river, but there is still a considerable proportion of fertile land. The river now enters a contracted part of its course which has been called the Canon. It is about three miles in length, and for this distance the sandstones and shales form steep slopes or cliffs rising from the water's edge on both sides, generally to a height of about 100 feet above the river. Above this the heavy drift de- posits form slopes for several hundred feet higher, reaching eventually the level of the plateau at about 500 feet above the river or 2350 above the sea. The slopes are aa a rule steep but generally not so much so * The height of this point and those assigned to other places between this and Dunvegan, are checked by barometer readings at the latter pluce by the Kev. D. M. Gordon, and are probably close approximations to the truth. The height of Dunvegan is estimated at 1305 feet. li BRITISH COLUMBIA. 43 B aH to provontthoir being covered with grasH. Thoy are very irreguhir, being broken by ravinoH and gullies. It would probably be necoHsary to crosH the river several times in the cafion with a railway line, and there would bo some heavy rock cutting. Below the cailon the valley again expands, and in four miles ''caches y^j| j^^j the Lower Forks. It is not, however, so wide as that either of the <""«">• Hukunka or upper part of the main stream, being contracted by ter- i-aces at the sides. The high plateau now no longer exists, but the country is based on a heavy covering of drift deposits which spreads widely at a height of about 500 feet above the river, foiining a very fertile soil. From high points the view to the northward is sea-like piateau. and unlimited, while southward the broken hilly plateau before described begins to rise iri'ogularly. The i)lateau has at one time been heavily wooded, but has now in most places been traversed by succes- sive fires, which have not only destroyed the forest but consumed the greater part of the fallen logs, producing prairie country with patches of young aspen in the vicinity of the river vallej^s. The lower terraces on this part of Pine River, and about the Lower Forks prcxhice a wonderfully luxurient growth of pea-vino and grass, and plants common on praii'io land begin to appear. The latitude of the confluence of the rivers at the Lower Forks was Lower Forkg. found to be 55° 4.T 42". The East Branch is the larger stream, its volume being in proportion to that of the branch we have followed down about three to two. The water of the East Branch is moi'e heavily charged with silt and has somewhat the appearance of a stream fed by glacier watei*. Both rivers are rapid and not deep, though it was with some difficulty and not without risk that we forded the East Branch on August 7th. At the Lower Forks of Pine River the mountains and high level plateau country has been left behind, and instead of finding fertile land in small and isolated patches the general surface of the country becomes susceptible of cultivation, the barren tracts being exceptional. Table Mountain ascended by Mr. Selwyn in 1875,* and in 1877 by Table Moun- Mr. Hunter,! is situated about half way between the Lower and '*""■ Middle Forks of Pine River and forms one of the outliers of the higher plateau, of which others occur to the southward east of the Su- kunka. Its elevation according to Mr. Selwyn is 3400 feet, according to Mr. Hunter 3500 feet. The character of the Pine Pass in regard to railway construction pj^g p^„ ^ ^ appears to be very favourable, bu as Messrs. J. Hunter and H. J. '"^''''^y 'oute. * Report of Progress 1876-76, p. 54. t Canadian Pacific Railway Report 1878, p. 79. I \ 'i rr; ^.^.■..:. \\ I If: i, ii'.\ '! !lil:i |i|t ■ ■ T:li 44 B The Rooky Mountains. OaOLOGICAL SURVEf OF CANADA. Country Kener- ally wooded. Vetcetation and climate. Cambie have both given special attention to this point,* it is not necessary to enter into detail here. An independent estimate by myself gave, howev^er, the following results: — Total distance by the river valley, which a i-ailway line would have to follow, from the Parsnip at the mouth of the Misinchinca to the Lower Forks of Pine Eiver, 108^ miles. Distance on a straight line bearing N. 50-5° E., 81 miles. Of the distance by the valley 93 miles may be classed as easy work, 2^ miles as moderately h javy work, and 13 miles as heavy work. The Eocky Mountain Eange where crossed by the Pine Pass may be said to be nearly forty miles wide, but this includes a considerable >vidth of foot hills on each side, the high and rugged summits forming a comparatively narrow zone, and apparently not rising above 6000 feet in height. In following the chain southwai-d and eastward to the 49th parallel, the passes generally increase in height and the moun- tains reach a greater altitude and show grander and more rugged out- lines. Near the 49th parallel, again, the eastern side of the mountains is abrupt and well marked, while in the region now described the mountains fall gradually to hills, which are reduced eventually, and without any well marked line, to the level of the plateau. A compari- son of the geological features of the mountains on the Pine and Peace Rivers with that of those to the south-eastward, is made on a subse- qiient page. To the north of the Peace River, we as yet know hardly anything of the range. From Fort McLeod to the Lower Forks the country may be descibed as a whole, as densely wooded, the only exceptions being the summits of mountains too high or too rugged to bear forest, or such places as have been cleared by fires. From the mouth of the Misinchinca to a point on Pine River about seven miles north-eastward from the highest point of the range, there is evidence in the vegetation and otherwise of a humid climate, and forest fires have been few and have not affected great areas. The valleys are here filled with dense dark groves of spruce in which the trees often obtain a great size, while the hillsides are also clad with coniferous forest, becoming more and more stunted toward the summits. From the point above mentioned eastward, fires have been frequent, and along the south bank and on the flats of the river valley grassy meadows begin to appear. Ten miles above the Middle Fork ArtermAa frigida and Eleagnus argentea, with the wild red cherry and choke- cherry were for the first time observed. Service-berries {Amalanchier) were here found ripe on the 3rd of August. Before reaching the Lower • Canadian Piujiflc Railway Reports 1878, p. 72, 1880, p. 52. BRITISH COLUMBIA. 45 B Forks, sunny slopes showed such flowers as Monarda fistulosa, Campanula rotundifolia and Anemone patens which are found very generally .dis- tributed over the prairies of the North-west. Raspberries were found ripe in the upper part of Pino River, and the berries of the viburnum turning red on the 31st of July. Owing to the densely wooded character of the country and the Difficulties ot number of swamps, streams and other impediments to the passage of the animals, it was not without putting forth over}- effort that we were able to make an average actual advance of about five and a half miles a day from the Pai-snip to the Lower Forks. On Pino River we found it advisable to follow Mr. Hunter's example and travel for the most part in the river bed, crossing and recrossing to keep shallow water and firm bottom. During this part of the journey several of us were constantly employed in advance on horseback searching for fords and marking them with bushes, or cutting trail across wooded points which it was impossible to go round in the river. The country was evidently comparatively dry at the time we passed, and in the spring it would be quite impossible to bring a loaded pack train through by this route without expending a great amount of labour in trail-making. Game must bo very abundant in some parts of the mountains, P*??" *"•* -' * ' Indiana. particularly the moose, bear end beaver. Wo found many of the bars and mud banks along the rivers from which the water had not long receded quite covered with the tracks of these animals. The Siccanie Indians of the vicinity of Fort McLood travel eastward up tho Misin- chinca, but apparently visit it very seldom, as there is no well-marked Indian trail. Near the Summit Lake we found traces of an Indian camp a few years old, and wo wore informed that a trail of some sort leads to this place from tho Parsnip west of the Misinchinca valley. From tho east the Beaver Indians hunt westward toward tho sources of the Pino River, but owing to tho difficulty of travel caused by tho burnt forest and windfall, have nearly abandoned tho head'J®*<*Pf waters of tho streams. We found, however, a small Cottonwood canoe cached on tho Pine River opposite the summit which I have namrd Canoe Mountain, and not far from tho eastern base of tho axial range of the mountains. From tho appeai-an-'o of bi-anches which had boon thrown into the canoo it must liavo been left here in the pre- ceding May, when th^ river was probably very high. On this part of Height of the river there la evidence of the rise of tho water in floods to a height of Ave feet above its low water level. Half way from the summit to the Middle Forks an extreme rise of eight feet is indicated. In regard to climate, the route from Fort McLeod to the Middle observed tem- Forksof Pine River, seventy- two miles distant, may be treated together '**'*'""*' I \ \y = :■ ii Wi '! it 4fiB OEOLOOrCAL SURVEY OP CANADA. as representing the Rocky Mountain zone, including the foot hills of both slopes and the higher plateau attaching to these on the north-eastward. From July 17th to August 5th, the mean of the observed minima on this part of the route is 39*7°. The mean of the early morning and evening readings of the thermometer, 49-4°. This must be much below the actual mean temperature, for the thermometer had seldom risen much above its minimum when observed at 6 a.m. The heat was sometimes great in the middle of the day, but as we were then always travelling, could not be registered. Three frosts were experienced, on the nights of the 2nd, 3rd and 4th of August, the thermometer reading 30-5°, 28° and 30-5° on these nights respectively. Strong westerly winds, falling calm at sundown, with a clear sky, were the conditions causing the frosts. Lower Forks of Pine River to Dunveoan. Limits of coun- The portion of the Peace River basin for which the exploration try described. ^^ jgng enables pretty accurate general information to be given, may be considered as extending eastward from the Middle Forks of Pine River. West of this point, as already stated, the areas of fertile land are small, being confined to certain river valleys which penetrate the foot hills of the Rocky Mountains, and the high plateau attached to them. With this western limit, the region now to be described may be defined as bounded to the north by the 57th parallel to its inter- section eastward with the Peace River. Thence the boundary may be assumed to follow the Peace River southward to the mouth of Heart Brook, near the confluence of the Smoky River. Thence to run south- eastward to the extremity of Lesser Slave Lake, to follow the western border of the hilly region lying to the south of the lake to the Atha- basca River; thence to follow the Athabasca westward to the foot hills, and skirting the foot hills to run north-westward to the first mentioned point on Pine River. The tra(!t included within the limits above given has an area of about 31,550 square miles, and by far the largest part of this area may be classed as fertile. In treating of this region a description of the routes followed will first be given, embracing such details as are likely to be of value. This will then be suceeded by such general deductions as to physical geography and climate of the district as our knowledge will allow. The region as above defined being somewhat homogeneous it is possible to arrive at the general facts in regard to it with some degree of certainty. It had been arranged that Mr. MacLeod, in event of his arriving in time at Dunvegan, should carry his exploration for railway purposes Area and mode of de- Boription. No news at Lower Forks. w^ BRITISH COLUMBIA. 4*7 B westward to the Pine Eiver Forks, and leave there a note stating his whereabouts and tellintr me what he wished done with his contingent of the pack train. On arriving at the Forks on August 7th no such note could bo found, and the flats along the river side though covefed with a luxuriant growth of wild pea and vetch, showed no tracks of men or horses, though hero and there trodden down in devious paths made by the bears in feeding. We firetl a number of shots in the calm of the evening to bring in any Indians who might be in tho vicinity, but without success, and so the next morning, after having put up a notice of our visit, wo set out for J)unvegan. The neighbourhood of the Foriis presents many features of geological in- terest but the season was already so far advanced and the time to bo occupied on the way eastward so uncertain, that I did not feel war- ranted in delaying there a day. We followed for a few miles the north bank of the East Branch of Coal Brook. Pine Riv^" travelling along open or lightly voodoil flats, and then turned northwai-d up the valley of a small tributaiy called by Mr. IIunter,^Coal Brook.* The stream at this date was about thirty feet wide by six inches deep, with a slope of about one in one hundred. In flood it must be from seventy to a hundred feet wide. For about five miles the valley is narrow and gorge like, and very tortuous, with banks of sliding Cretaceous shale» anil sandstones forming scarped hill- sides 200 to 800 feet high where the brook impinges upon them. At tho distance from its mouth above indicated, the valley widens to about a quarter of a mile, with flats bordering tiie stream on the j'ight and left sides alternately. The sides of tho valley still continue steep, though decreasing in height. We travelled chiefly in the bed of the brook, or along the low flats bordering it, and camped in the evening at about fourteen miles trom the Forks, at an elevation of 2150 feet or 300 feet above the Forks. From this camp to the next — a distance of about thirteen miles — weCountirbe- travelled in tho first instance up tho bed of the stream, as before. The Brook and banks becoming gradually lower, and showing gravelly and bouldery drift deposits with occasionally a few feet of the underlying Cretaceous shales. Wo then found, not without some difficulty, the point at which Mr. Hunter had loft the brook, and by keeping throe or four of our Indians constantlj'^ ahead looking for signs were able to follow his old marks to the summit between Coal and Buttalo Creeks. Our camp at this point was at an elevation of 3300 feet and the countiy some- what hilly, being in fact a broad ridge very much higher than most of of tho region. Tho woods are composed of black spruce, scrub pine, * This must not be confounded with ' Coal Creek', of Mr. Selwvn's report, which is a small gorge on the south of Pine River Canon. •! ' Buffalo Creek. 48 B QEOIiOGICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. fi Buffalo Creek Valley. Indian signs. Cross Mud River. Plateau east Mud River. Heavy wind- ftlL birch, aspen, Cottonwood and alder, in most places dense, but where fires have passed grass is found growing luxuriently. The soil is good being a pale silt. August lOth. — Leave camp early and travel till 4 p.m., passing at first for some miles through heavily wooded country, but on coming down to the sources of Buffalo Creek find a more open region, with consider- able areas of scattered aspen groves and grassy flats, which continue to become more extensive as wo descend the sti-eam. The valley when first seen is small with gently sloping sides, but continues widening, till at our evening camp it is nearly a mile in width. The plateau at the sides at the same time becomes lower, and the rounded hills which rose above the level of the upper terrace or plateau on the upper part of the stream disappear. The soil is everywhere fertile and susceptible of cultivation, and earthy drift or loam twenty to thirty foot deep is exposed in banks near our evening camp, which is situated a few miles above the junction of Buffalo Creek and Mud Eivor. Found some recent horse tracks and signs that the valley has been visited by Indians within a few weeks. Near this point Mr. Hunter,*in 1877, turned back after getting into a tangled and swampy country on the east side of the Mud Eiver. Detei*mined to keep a few miles further north to avoid this known bad country and then set out on a compass course for Dunvegan. August llth. — Travelled about ten miles eastward, keeping on later than we otherwise would have done on account of the difficulty of find- ing water. Two miles from morning camp cross Mud River, now averaging 120 feet wide, with a moderate current and muddy banks. It is depi'essed fifty feet below the level of the wide valley which it follows to the northward. To the north-eastward the country is evidently a nearly level plateau which appears however to fall gradu- ally to the north. To the south are low hills which seem to rise about 300 feet above the plateau. The valley of Mud River is in great .part open, well grassed and with very fertile soil. As it appeared to turn too much to the northward and westward, we ascended its east side to the level of the plateau. This has been originally more or less heavily timbered with black spruce, scrub jiine, Cottonwood and aspen often of fine growth. Fires have, however, swept over considerable districts which are now covered with second-growth aspen or fallen timber. Our camp, which is at about the average level of this part of the plateau, is at an elevation of 2600 feet. The latitude, determined by a meridian altitude of Altair 55° 46' 54". August 1.2th. — Cut our way with much labour for some miles through heavy wiudfiall among which young aspen groves are struggling up, but get before long into standing woods and eventually into w i NOBTII-WEST TERRITORY. 49 B through •uggling lly into open groves through which we travel along easily, till catching a glimpse of a still more open country to the northward we turn in that direction and emerge on a valley with gently sloping sides, one to two miles wide and chiefly pruii'le with coppice of willow and alder bushes here and there. This is the rirst prairie country wo have seen and p„„ce Coupde contrasts very jileasantly with the dense forests through which for the '"*" most part we have heretofore been groping our way. The grass is in some places as high as the horses' bellies and is already ripe and turn- ing brown at the tops. The hillsides are gay with summer flowers such as Castilleia, Aster, and Solidago. After travelling a few n^iles g^^ j^ji^^^g thi'ough this park-like country we caught sight of a couple of Indians, who immediately plunged into a thicket, evidently much alarmed, and were next seen on (he to]) of a hill about half u mile off running away as fast as they could. The invasion of this quiet region by a party so large and so unfamiliar in style of equipment, is doubtless enough to disturb the equanimity of a timid Beaver Indian, who has perhaps never oven seen mules before. Camped on the bank of a small river which flows northward in a valley about 200 feet deep, traced in the bottom of a much wider hollow. This stream we found afterwards is known where it reaches tho Peace D;Echafau^'■■i >^«^<;->.r' r. ■■■■.V -t^ "■;:. \:90'^§^'^ '/' ■ III ! NORTn-WEaT TERRITORV. 53 B thifi place a width of about soventeon miles. It runs north-oastwrtnl and south-woHtvvard, but in the latter direction Hoon turns to a nearly oast and west course, coiitinuiiij^ to bound the Grande Prairie to the north for many milos. Whore crossed on this trail, the north-eastern part of this hip where rapid, and flows in a trough cut eighty feet deep in tlio bottom of the wide valley. The north-eastern slopes of valley are open jjrairic, but lo the south and west the eye ranges over a great extent of wooded country. This is in fact the edge of the (Jrande Prairie in this direction. The Wapiti Kiver, Elk Eiver or Riviere la Biche, which may be Wapiti River, considered as bounding the Grande Prairie country to the south, joins the Smoky River in latitude 55° !>' 'M" longittido 118° 34'. In August it was found to be about three hundred feet wide and so rapid and deep as to require caution in fording. Its water difl'ers from that of the smaller streams above described in being charged with tine mud, and ■s doubtless partly derived from molting snow. Our guide pointed out to us a high snow-covered ))eak in the Rocky Mountains, situated about flfty miles south-westward from the mouth of the Wapiti, as being near the soui-ce ol" the river. The valley of the Wapiti averages probably a mile in width and is depressed about 400 feet below the plateau bordering it. Along the west bank of that portion of it ex- amined, the country for some miles back is sandy and poor, with ridges and mossy swamps. The northern slopes of the valley itself in its lower part are irregular, with sandy and gravelly ridges covered with scattered trees and scanty herbage. A traverse was made south of the Wapiti River, between that sti-eam C','uiitrv south ' ot tlie Wiiiiiti. antl the Smok}', for the purpose of ascertaining the character of the country. Seen from high points on the Grande Prairie this district forms part of a wide nearly level or gently undulating wooded region, which stretches to the distant foot hills of the Rocky Mountains. On the travei'se above mentioned the country was found to be generally lightly wooded with poplar and cotnferous trees, though dense belts of spruce, in which the trees are sometimes of a large size, also occur. The surface is slightly undulating, and the soil, — especially near Wapiti River — in places light. At least half the surface, however, would, if cleared, be well adapted for agriculture. On reaching the bank of the Smoky River — which we did on the Turn back trail followed in latitude 54° 53' 4"_we hoped to find a small canoe Kiv"r '""'**' which we were assured haa been left there by a hunting party in the spring, and in which 1 wished to descend the Smoky River to the Peace to examine any rock sections which might occur. Being unsuc- cessful in our search, and wishing not to lose the time necessary to make a canoe for ourselves, we waited till noon to ascertain the lati- tude, as above given, and then travelled back fifteen miles to the li: I *H I s'ii I ■. jl t ,i' ; ii ¥ I 56 b GEOLOaiCAL SURVEY OF CANADA. ArranKemonts for return. crossing of the Wapiti, whore we hail ali-eady found a small Cottonwood canoe 'cached'. The Smoky Eiver valley at the point just mentioned is two and a half miles wide and over 300 feet deep. The banks are not precipitous and the bottom is wide, with beaver dams and swampy meadows and fine large cottonwoods in dense groves. Directing the packer with oui- guide and one Indian to return at once to Dunvegan, and after obtaining fresh animals there to go on to the mouth of the Smoky to meet us, I got the little canoe above men- tioned launched, and with two British f'olumbian Indians set out lo descend the Wapiti and Smoky Rivers to the Peace. We knew that the Indians hunting in this part of the countiy not unfrequently ran down the Smoky Iliver in canoes, but were not prepared to find it so rapid a.s it proved. We arrived at the Peace River safely on the evening of August 28th, after a voyage, following the course of the river, of one hundred and twenty miles, and the packer and animals arriving next morning, we rode back to Dunvegan, arriving at 3 p.m., on August 30th. Wapiti River. From Mountain Creek, where we embai-ked on the Wapiti River, to the mouth of the latter— thirteen miles in a straight line — the banks of the valley continue generally wooded with modei'ate slopes, and show no extensive slides, though frequent small exposures of rock occur at the water's edge. P'lats at about ten feet above the i-iver are somewhat extensive but appear to be liable to be flooded. Seven and a half miles from the mouth of the Wa])iti the Beai- River joins it from the north-west. Aboui a mile and a naif below the mouth of the Wapiti, the Smoky is joined from the east by the Simonette River, a stream forty to fifty feet wide by two feet deep with modei-ately j-apid current. This occupies a deep but narrow valley, and is snid to head not far from the upper part of the Smoky at a considei-able distance to the south- ward. It is doubtless the upper ]mrt of this stream which was crossed by Mr. K. W. Jarvis in his adventurous winter journey aci'oss the Rock}' Mountains in 1874-1-', An eas}- crossing of the Smok}' River foi- a railway lino can be obtained by following the vnlley of the Bear River and the north baidv of the Wapiti, ci-ossing the Smoky River at the confluence and making grade to the plateau level again in the valley of the Simonette. From the mouth of the Simonette to the confluence of the Little Smoky River — forty-two and a half miles in a sti-aight line, or about si.Kty miles by the course of the river — the valley is from a mile to a mile and a luilf wide from rim to rim. The banks in many places show the effects of very extensive slides, which have brought the soft * Cimudian Pacific Railway Report 1877, p. 165- Simnjiette River. Railway cross- ing. Smoky Riv< r. 'A HH CO CO < H O CO ^ S l!i ii! Ii V ''•• in' i jiiji i: I «- ' :kf. ■^•'^W. ' «V ..;' V.?-"''- ..'■■■''ft' a'' '■ ■;.■■''■'">•»• -I .<&*',^ ^w- >■ ' ' ■..■•• •■■st''\i ft'. '■ ■■-;■' iii i;';' -■*; '.. s'. ■ • '•.-• X' "^% ,■"■; •A V - "> >,!''■:•! ,-<* *■ t> ■ ¥ ;"*' .::;:; ;V.^^'- ■ .-^-:-.>-;r./^T ..;'< ■-!■» '^ ■ ■ : ■!» *■' '.',.> '. " ■■ 'V't. "" ■■•. .".■ eVi 1.. ' ,, : ■' ■■■»» - . ■,' .'' i \' a • ■ ,'■ , • ■ {•'i "■"'^■■■"'^/' '' .'■ . ''" ,*.. .s:!,.. -■•,■ >:- ■ . , ■ '.'•».■. ■.■.;'^- '':':. ''-H'^' i . .:■',■/„»■ ;■ 1 ■ , ■ . .' • 'f '. f" ,■ '■ '1' "':' . . ' 1 / ■ . ' * •' • -• .•* . l-i - ; , j^- ■: >. ■ ; . •! - • ,>'^ ' •■■ ipi,;,;,.;.r'-;; k '.• *■•■- , • . •:■ -i ;^^F--/::^^= ■'ill ,.y :•• ^ ■•!■■,:';, '" .■ • :';;•'. ;>•■' i; '. ;■■ ' !■ *.- ■■ r' '. ■ :: .:S(V • yl ■■ ;: :t '. 'r ■ ■■ ' ' V ^' ■., -j; /• ' ! . • .( .- . !' •< fw i.;' ■ •' ■'"/ -"■ V'- *V •■ : .■;/•' . ■ ■♦• ■• f ■>..'.. ■!<■■■ ... ^^^! .. ■'< ■'■ I ! i . Hi' >•('■•. ^ • • !■ ■'•■■■•>- .^^^>#vfe.,::.7>'; ' ■ 5 ■'> v'* ■•;■ ■■•'•.;•>■ , ,'^ . .'.■'.' ■'■ ■, ■■'Ul ■■'■(..'• ■■■.■■'■ '\ ■^if;.-F''''.'P" , _ ■ , ■; -'I i '■; 'H4- .'.:• ,'■ '' '' = ■i .•■,>fI''" *'■■ ■'^'i' ■• •1. ...ji 1 ■'!'. •' !" i:ii^:^^;iil.:r'l ij'..iii. -. NOilfH-WEST TERRITORY. 57 fi Cretaceous beds down from the level of the country above to the water's edge in broken and confused masses. These are generally old, but some are evidently still occasionally in motion, and covered with trees thrown at all angles by the disturbance. Scarped banks of these soft rocks from one to two hundred feet high also occur in some places. All southern exposures are in general grassed, while the shady parts of the valley are wooded. The flats bordering the river on alternate sides are I'rom ten to twenty feet above it, being higher near the Ijittle Smoky. The Little Smoky is much less in size than the Wapiti River. The point at the junction of the Smokj' and Little Smoky is an irre- gular mass of sombre Cretaceous shales, and here is situated the only one of the 'bocannes' which have given the river its name, at present inBocannes. action. Several other places where a smouldering combustion has at some time occurred, are marked by spots of red baked clay in the banks, but at this place a thin column of smoke is still issuing. This phenomenon is again referred to in treating of the Cretaceous rocks on a following page. After makinga few abrupt turns below the mouth of the Little Smoky, ^ower Smoky the main I'iver flows in a nearly straight line to its confluence with the Peace. The valley continues with much the same character as before, slides and scarped banks alternating with gi-assy or wooded slopes. The river becomes very wide and shallow in some places, esjjecially for several miles before reaching the Peace, and there are several strong rapids. The Cretaceous sandstones which now prevail in the banks are nodularly hardened, and large blocks of these indui*ated por- tions of the rock derived from old slides obstruct the riv^er bed in some jilaces, i-endering the rapids more difficult to run. It is possible that a stern-wheel steamer of considerable power could ascend the Smoky River lor some distance, pei'haps even as far as the mouth of the Wapiti, but this would beat best for a short time each 3'ear, and the river can in no projjer sense be accounted a navigable one. It was on the Peace River about six miles above the mouth of theOidPoat. Smoky that Sir Alexander Mackenzie built a post in the autumn of 1792, and wintered preparatory to his exploration of the then unknown country to the westward. The trail from Smoky River to Dunvegan lies at a considerable dis- Countrjbe- i „ ^ , . , , , , , , , tween Smoky tance from tlie river, and passes almost all the way through a country River and which may be described as pi-airio. The plateau is nearly level beyond the heads of the numerous ravines which run toward the I'eace, wide grassy stretches alternating with aspen coppieo and patches of willow. Considerable patches of burnt aspen of larger growth also occur, and it is evident that tire passes at intervals over all this pai-t of the ■ AV '! f A\ \:[ '■■■ ifl- ^ m ■ f 1 I I : Plateau north of Dunvegan. Fine prairie country. Hay Lake. Lac des Isles. 58 B GEOLOGICAL SUBVET OF CANADA. country keeping down the j'oung growth of trees. Near Dunvegan, for some miles, the surface becomes undulating and broken from the action of denundation sweeping toward the main river valley. This undulating region is pretty densely wooded with aspen. The soil is everywhere exceedingly fertile and the general aspect of the country very beautiful. Description by Mr. McConnell op the Country North op Dunvegan. The following notes, which may be introduced here, are by my assis- tant, Mr. McConnell, and accurately describe the country examined by him northward from Dunvegan to the Battle River, a stream which flowing eastward joins the Peace about a hundred miles below the Smoky River : — North of Dunvegan the plateau level is attained at about a mile from the fort, and is about 800 feet above the river. The highest point reached by the barometer during the day being 2'7'48, while at the river level it read 28-452. For several miles after reaching the plateau, the country passed through was somewhat rolling, and dotted with aspen coppice, but gradually the rolls ceased, and at a distance of about six miles fi-om the river the surface became almost perfectly level. As far as the eye could reach nothing met the view save a level plain with here and there a clump of aspens, the whole being admirably adapted to agriculture. The soil displayed where the trail had been worn some- what deeply was a heavy clay, covered with rich black mould often over a foot in depth. Neither swamps or muskegs and but two gullies were passed over or seen in any direction. This style of country con- tinued for a distance of about fifteen miles from the river, and then com- menced gradually to change for the worse. As we a])proached Hay Lake the country became more swampy and wooded, while with the aspens were now mixed a considerable number of spruce. Hay Lake is about a mile and a half in length by three-quarters of a mile in width, and is so called from the marshes around it affording a large quantity of wild hay. After leaving Hay Lake the trail we followed bends more to the west and leads on to Lac des Isles, distant from Hay Lake about four miles. This lake is somewhat larger than the last and contains numerous islands. Between the two lakes, the country for the greater part of the distance is chiefly wooded with aspen and spruce, and though the trail passes over firm ground nearly all the-way, still on either side of it were seen largo tamarac swamps and open marshes. But the country seen here cannot be taken as a safe criterion ol" its character at any distance from the trail, as the swamps if^kkjMjgikl. NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 59 B and marshes ai-e probably due to the proximity of the lakes, the land between them being very low. About half way between Hay Lake and Lac des IsIoh, a small stream about twenty-five feet wide by a foot deep, and into which both lakes discharge, was crossed ; this is the same stream which falls into Peace fliver about half a mile above Dunvegan, and up the valley of which the trail now led for a consider- able distance. On leaving the Lac des Isles the country improved consider- country north ably, but yet remained far inferior to that in the vicinity of thei'sies.'^ ^^ river. The valley of the stream which we now followed up is about seventy-five feet deep, and varies greatly in width, now narrow- ing down to about a quarter of a mile, then spi-eading out to several miles — and giving off at intervals, on either side, large lateral valleys. Here the country is again rolling, with woodland and open prairie alternating with occasional swamps. The soil, though on the whole good, is sometimes light, the tops of the highest rolls showing sand oi- gravel. About twelve miles north of Lac des Isles we left Muddy Creek, which here turned abruptly westward, and headed, as we were informed by our Indian guide, at a lake several miles long lying at the foot of the same range of low hills which now stretched aci'oss our Range of hills, path from cast to west. This range we found on ci-ossing it to be about nine miles in width, the hills varying from 400 to 500 feet in height. It appeared to run in a south-westerly direction, but owing to its densely Avooded condition, from no point could we obtain more than a glimpse of the country around. The trees were ])rincipally small aspens, but a couple of muskegs were passed over on which spruce was gi-owing. On the southern side of this range and the greater part of the way across it, the land is of little value, but the northern slope, being very gentle, displays quite a large area of good land. Descending this slope, we found at its foot the largest muskeg observed in the whole trip. In this swamp Muskeg, headed a small stream which flowed northwards to White Mud River, the range of hills constituting the watershed between that river and the streams flowing southward to Peace Rivei", After passing with difficulty through this swamp, which is about three miles in width, we found that the country gradually improved. First swamp and aspen bush alternated with one another, then all became aspen bush, and at last an open prairie. About six miles from the foot of the hills we came to a largo stream called White Mud Eiver, iibout y^,jj}jg jj^^j fifty feet in w idth by about a foot and a half in depth. It flows in an ^^'*■^'■• easterly direction, and the country we descended into appeared to be its valley. If so, it is from north to south, where the trail crosses it, . about fifteen miles in width, but appears to n.urrow westward, another r ; nf I 60 B GEOLOGICAL SUllVEY OF CANADA. 1:: Fertile prairie. Country north to Battle River. range of hills running from the Honth-eamt seeming almost to close it u}). Between these two ranges of hills, and stretching eastward and south-eastward as far as the eye could reach, is a large area of magnifi- cent country, slightly rolling, and dotted here and there with clumps of aspen and willow. This reach of country, according to half-breed report, follows White Mud Rivei- to its mouth, and bears the same character throughout. This would make it about fifty miles in length, with probably an average width of twenty miles. It appears to be about the same height as the plateau above Dunvegan, or 2200 feet. The banks of White Mud River ai-e about fifteen feet in height, but showed no rock sections whatever, the cutting being chiefly through a stiff grey clay. The bed of the stream was filled principally with Laui'cntian gnoissic boulders, together with a small number of well- worn sandstone rocks. After leaving White Mud prairie, the country again grew worse, the jjroportion t)f swampy land being on the increase, and the prairie land also giving way to aspen bush; but g'tting past the watershed between White Mud River and Battle River it again improved, and from this point on to Battle lliver, a distance of about twenty-five miles, it maintained the same general character, showing scarcely any prairie, but being covered with a thick growth of aspen and willow, and Battio River, with a very small proportion of swampy land. Battle River, flowing in a valley about a mile in width and 200 feet in depth, is in low water about seventy-five feet wide and about a foot deep, but (luring floods it must be a large stream of a couple of hundred feet wide and three or four feet deep. A walk of several miles up and down the stream discovered no etratifietl rocks in situ, though several bluffs were seen from fifty to seventy-five feet high, but consisting principally of sand. Most of the rocks in the stream appear to have come from a distance, gneissic and granitic boulders forming by fiir the greater proportion of them. Along with these are some of greyish crystalline fossiliferous limestone, and rounded and angular blocks of sandstone, some of them containing fossils, also a small })roporti()n of blackish shale, porphyry, &c. The river is very winding, and runs in an easterly direction. According to the account of a Cree hunter whom we met there, it receives two other branches from the north, each as large as itself, before falling into Peace River, which by his account was two days' journey from this point, or probably about forty miles. As a rough estimate of the amount of good land lying between Peace River and Battle River, a distance of eighty-dvc miles, I should say that fully three-quarters of it is fit for cultivation, the rest being too wet, and the greater part of the cultivable area, including White Mud prairie, being really first-class land, equal to any which 1 have seen in anj' other place in the North-west. Amount of good laud. IP: NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 61b At Battle Eiver the full appears to set in very early. Although it climate, was but the 24th AugiiHt when wo wore there, yet the loaves of the aspens were already yellow, and were falling off. This appears to have been due to the cold of the night of the 20th August, when the thei-monieter registered 12 degree of frost, as before that they were quite green, and on our way baolc after recrossiiig the hills we found them again comparatively green. This frost, according to the experi- ence of the Hudson Bay Company's ])eople, was quite exceptional in its severity at so early a season, but besiiles it two other light frosts were experienced on the ti'ip. Extracts from Mr. CAiMBiE's Eei'ort. To complete the information obtained during the exploration of the summer of 187'J for the Peace Uiver country west of Dunvegan, the following notes from Mr. 11. .1. Cambie's report on the region between Dunvegan and Fort St. John and Hudson's llojjo, on the north side of the rivei', and thence southward to Pine River, may be quoted.* As already stated, the river itself has been fully described in the Geological Survey Report of 1875-70 by Mr. Selwyn : — " From Dunvegan we travelled northward for a day and a half, "^'ly coimtrv west thirty miles, and then westward at an average distance of fifteen miles "'^""^o^au. from the Peace River to Fort St. John. * * For the whole distance, nearly 120 miles, the plateau undulates considerably, ranging from 1900 to 2400 feet above the sea level. And for forty miles, after turning to the west, there was a range of hills a few miles to our right rising from 600 to 1500 feet above the adjacent country. My guide informed me that the streams on the other side of that ridge drained into the Battle and Liard Rivers. " Eleven streams, from twelve to forty feet in width were crossed, streams besides numerous smaller ones, and Pine River North, which is situated' about six miles from Fort St. John, and was then 100 feet wide by two feet deep, but at high water must be 300 feet wide, in a valley 700 feet deep and a quaiter of a mile wide in the bottom. The slopes on both sides are much broken by old land slides. " On the west there is a blutl:' of decomposed shale, and on the face of the eastern slope many ledges of sandstone in nearly horizontal beds. ''Wo saw a few small open muskegs, and had to cross one about one mile in width which delayed us more than four hours. "The soil is composed of white silt with a good covering of vege- table mould, but for one stretch of fourteen miles, this has been completely burnt oft. Wo akso passed over two gravelly ridges. Hi crossed. ♦ Canadian Pacific Hallway Report, 1880, p. 50. I I I III: t ■> I I: : \ : i\ I: i:i i i It' [!• I 'I ' \ ^ s r I 62 B Prairie and woodland. Trail from St. John to Hud- son's Hope. Soil. Hills. Plateau south of Hudson's Hope. Moberly's Lake and southward. OEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. " A few largo prairies were seen, and many Hmall ones intei-Hpersed with poplar and willow copHC. " Twonty-tivo por cent, of" the distance, lay through woods of small poplar, sprufc and Itlack piiio ; iioar Pino River North, there was also a belt throi' miles wide of spruce six to fifteen inches in diameter." The li-ail from Fort 8t. John to Jludson's Hope, most of the way, followed the valley of the river, and was on the plateau only for twelve miles after leaving Fort St. John, for about three miles near Middle River, half-way between the two places, and again for a short distance about si.\ miles east of Hudson's Mope. " The soil is rich at each of those places, with prairie and poplar and willow copso, also a few small groves of poplar and spruce four to twelve inches in diameter. On the benches next the river, the soil is in some places light, and between Middle River and Hudson's Hope, there is one stretch, six miles in length, gravelly and almost barren. That description of land also extends the whole way across the Rocky Mountain Portage. * * * " Regarding the country north of Peace River, I noticed that from the eastern base of the Rocky Mountains, about twenty miles north of Hudson's Hope, a range of hills extends, nearly due east till it meets the Peace River, about twelve miles below its j\inction with the Smoky River. " The tract of country lying south of that range, and between it and the Peace, is generally fertile, but that portion of it Avest of the longitude of Dunvegan is more undulating and at a slightly higher elevation than the other portions of the plateau in the Peace River district, which I had travelled over, and has an appreciable percentage of poor soil." The plateau south of Hudson's Hope is said to bo 2000 feet in eleva- tion, but a ridge rising 900 foot higher is crossed at five miles, and a descent made to Moberly's Lake, which has an elevation of 2050 feet. The country between Moberly's Lake and the Pine River is described as a mountainous and hilly district, sixteen miles in breadth, rendered almost impassable by fallen timber, the only prairies being on the slopes of steep hills facing the south. " In the fii'st five miles from Hudson's Hope we had crossed two small tamarac swamps and some stretches of light, sandy soil, with a small growth of poplar and spruce. We had again met with some level land in the valley of Moberly's River, which for nine miles above the lake averages nearly half a mile in width in the bottom. Some portions of this are gx'avelly and barren, and others fertile, with a few small prairies producing rich grass. There are also some fine prairies at the lake, on slopes fiicing the south. Between Moberly's Lake and NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 63 b Pine River there is now a young growth of tspruce, black pine and poplar, but the piles ol" fallen timber proved the exiwtence not long ago of Hpruce fbrestH of niodorato .size, and a few belts of that timber, six inches to twenty-four inches in diameter, having escaped the ravages of the tire, are still standing." Description of Country between Dunveoan and the Athabasca River. August 21st and the four following days were spent at Dunve- Re arrange T , . ,. ... , , parties and gan, in the preparation ot a preliminary map and report on the leavo Dunve- character of the country, and in arranging about supplies and dividing the pack train, the larger part of the animals returning with Mr. Cambie to British ('Oluml)ia. The season being now far advanced, and no word received from the party which was to have ojiened a trail from Dirt Lake, west of Edmonton, to Dunvcgan ; JMr. Mac^Leod and I decided to divide between us the work necessary to complete exploratory lines to Dirt Lake and Lac La Hicho, as in the event of either the Pine or Peace River pass being chosen Jis a railway route, it appeared absolutely essential that surveys should bo connected in both these directions. We left Dunvegan finally on the 5th of Sep- tember, Mr. MacLeod and 1 setting out foi- the upper part of the Atha- basca River, while Mr. McXJonnell had instructions to go to Lesser Slave Lake, and make his way by the best rou{e he could find to Athabasca Landing, where he was to meet me early in October. We were able to j)rocure a guide who ensfaged to take us as far as 'general de- r 1 1 1 • • • 1.11 I "cnption ol Sturgeon Jjake, toward oui- objective point on the Athabasca, and route followed, travelling in the first instance to the mouth of the Wapiti River, we there crossed the Smoky, intending to strike eastward to the lake. Our guide, however, informed us that the intervening country was a mass of burnt woods and windfall throu:;h which he bail had groat difficulty in travelling on snow-shoes in winter, and quite imprac. ticablo for animals. We were therefore obliged to make a long detour to the north, and arrived at Sturgeon Lake on Se])tember 14th. There are here a few rough log-houses inhabited by Cree Indians, who culti- vate small garden patches. We found, however, that nearly all the men were away on the autumn hunt, and were told that it would bo quite impossible to travel south-eastward to the Athabasca owing to the great areas of heavy windfall and swamj). "We managed at length, however, to procure a lad as guide, who agreed to lead us to where one of the parties was, and there we hoped to find a man better acquainted with the country. Without entering further into particulars as to the journey, it may suffice to say that after penetrating a very difficult 64 b OBOLOaiCAL SURVEY OP CANADA. hi 1 : 1 1 '! 1 , j ;; w i .' ii 11 ( country wo ronched the bank of the AthabaHCU in hititudo 54° 7' 34", approxiinato longitude ll(i° 48', on the 24th Septumbor. fwcon'^SmMk Hi'twocn Ibo Smoky Itivor and Sturgeon Lake, lies a ridge, or area of Hiveranil hliiilier i)lateau, wiiieli exceeds the ifoiiei-al level bv t"'0 oi' thiee iiun- drerairie openings, especially along the banks of streams, and considerable ti-acts of burnt country still more or less encumbered with the half-consumed logs, but att'ording excellent pasture for animals. Swamps, generally produced by beaver- dams are often met with, and the evidences of old beaver work are very frequent, though comparatively lew skins are now obtained in this part of tho country. The stream beds are not generally depressed more than ten to forty feet below tho level of the plateau. The valley of the I'us-kwas-ka-mon, a considerable brook, is followed eastward till within five miles of Sturgeon Lake, when the watershed is crossed at an elevatioii of 250 feet above Sturgeon Lake. Tho soil is gen- erally good and in some places very fertile. It is composed of the with a sAirfa )w Laurontia pobl)les were observed on the slopes of the ridge or higher plateau. Sturgeon Liiko. Sturgeon Lake, or Ko-me-sis Sa-ga-ho-gun of the Crees, is probably about eight miles long and lies nearly cast and west. It is constricted in tho middle and its western end was not seen. Its elevation is about 2000 foot. It is probably shallow and its bardvs are uniformly low, sloping up gradually to a height of about one hundred feet before attaining tho plateau level. There is good pasturage and a fine partly open country on tho north-eastern border of the lake, along which wo passed to reach tho Cree settlement. The Indians here own some horses, which they winter on the grassy banks of a second large lake lying to the south of Sturgeon Lake. Twenty-one miles south-eastward from Sturgeon Lake, the bank of the Little Smoky River was reached. The intervening country is for tho most part wooded, but with little prairies along tho borders of the streams. The surface is gently rolling tho difFeronces in elevation not exceeding a few hundred feet. A few mossy and peaty swamps were traversed, but the area of those is comparatively inconsiderable. Thq white silt previously referred to, with a sAirfaco coating of vegetable mould of variable thickness. A few Laurontian boulders and quartzito Country south of .Sturgeon Lake. 1^''! N0RTH-WE8T TERHITORY. 65 b hank of ^ry in i'or Hoil is generally f^ood, tlioiii^h in Hoino j)liice« becomin<^ rntlier hard and clayey and then bearing dense groves of'upruce. From tiio point when the Little Smoky Jliver is flrnt reached, its v,iiie.v of coiirHo In in the main ibllowcd for thirty-wix iniloH l)y an indiHtinct trail ^-'^'^ '*'"''''>'• which croHHeH and re-crosses the stream in a number of places. The river averages from 250 to 300 leet wide with generally a stony bottom. In September it was two to throe feet deep, with a moderately swift current. The valley is not deep and trough-shaped like those of many other ]"iverH in this legion, but wi. TiK Hres are, of course, ultimately atti'ibutable U) human agency, and it is [trobable that before tho country was iniubited by the Indiiins it was everywhere densely forest-clud. That the date of the origin of the chief prairie tracts now found is remote, is clearly evidenced by their present appearance, and more particalarly by the fact that they are everywhere scored and rutted with old buiValo tracks, while every suitable locality is pitted with saucer-shaped 'butl'alo wallows.' In its primitive state, the surface was ])rol)ably covered with a dense and heavy growth of coniferous trees, principally the spruce {Picea Knyelmanni and P. allxi) but with scrub pine (Pinus contorta) in some localities, and interspersed with aspen and cotton- wood. These forests having been destroyed by tiro, a socorul growtli, chietly of asjien, but with much birch in some places, and almost every- where a certain proportion of coniferous trees — chiefly spruce — has taken its [tlace. The aspen being a short-lived tree, while the spriu'c reaches a groat age and size, the natural course of events, if uiulis- turbed, would lead to the re-establishment of the oltl spruce forests. Tho luxuriance of tho natural vegetation in those prairies is truly wonderful, and indicates, not alone the fertility of the soil, hut the occuri'once of a sufficient rainfall. '■.i I Nortii-West Territory". G9 R liiiinan )iUMl l)y to of tho H c-lc;irly by Uic ) tracks, ' butValo covered )ally the ' {Pi IMS 1 cottow- growtli, 8t evcry- iice — has Hpriice if uiulis- ) rests, is truly but the With rccrard to the climate of the Peace River conntrv, we are with- f'mnte and " , _ . iiKnculturo. out such accurate iuformatiou as might be obtained from a careful meteorological record, embracing even a single year, and its cliaractcr can at present be ascertained merely from notes and observations of 'i general character and (he apjiearance of the natural vegetation. It may be stated at once that tho ascertained facts leave no doubl on tho subject of the sufficient length and warmth of the season, to ripen wheat, oats and barley, with all the ordinary root crops and vegetables, the only point which may admit of question being to what extent the occui-ronce of late and early frosts may intei-fere with growth. This remark is intended to apply to the whole district previously defined, including both tiio river valleys and the plateau. The summer season of ]8T!> was an unusual one, characterized by Summer of 1S7>). excessively heavy rainfall, with cold raw weather in the early summer months. These conditions did not extend to the west of the Jlocky Mountains, but a})pear to have been felt over the entire area of the plains to the Red River valley. As a result of this, the crops generally throughout the North-west were later than usual, and the mean tem- perature of even the latter ])art of the summer appears to be rather abnormally low. Notwithstanding this, on my arrival at I>Mnvegan, on the IGth of August, small j>atches of wheat and barley in the garden cVopsnt Dim- of the fort 2)resen led a remarkably fine appearance and wi-re beginning^"*"''"' to turn yellow. On my return to the foi't on August .'ilst these were being harveste I Indian gar- dens. Ctopa at Lesser Qn the 15th September, Mr. R McCoiinell, found the potatoes in the garden of the fort at the west end of Lesser Slave Lake, and on the level of the plateau, little atfccted by the frost, with tubers large and ripe. Air. H. J. Cambio also ascertained that wheat thrives at this place. We found some rude attempt at cultivation also at the 'Creo Settlement,' previously referred to, which is at the average level of the plateau, with an elevation of about 2000 feet. Here, on September 1-lth, the potato j)lants were slightly atiected by frost, but not more so than observed at Dunvegan tAVO weeks before. Tlie tubers were quite ripe, but the Indians did not intend to dig them for about ten days. Turnips were very fine, and carrots, beets and onions were good, though evidently cultivated with very little care. Two or three very small patches of barley had been almost completely destroyed by mice, but a feAv stalks remaining were quite ripe and Avith tine heads. The Indians liere were very anxious to have a suj^ply of garden seeds, which T have since been able to forward to them by the kindness of Messrs. Stobart, Eden iS: Co., of Winnipeg. Climate ntFort At Fort St. John, ninety-five miles west of J)unve":an, and so much .St. .John and ) .; o > Hudson'sHope. nearer the mountains, on Jn\y 20th, 1875, Professor Macoun states that potatoes, oats, barley, and many varieties of vegetables were in a very flourishing state in ' Nigger Dan's' garden. The oats stood nearly five feet high, and the barley had made nearly an equal growth.* The barley and oats were both ripe about the 12lh of August. Prof. Macoun was informed by Charlette at Hudson's Hope, thii-ty miles further west, that in 1S74 there was no frost from the 1st of May until the 15th of Se|»tember. In 1875 sowing commenced the last week in April. Tijere appears to have been a frost on .Iitne 2Stli, but the first autumn frost occuri-od on the 8th of September, and Mr. Selwyn found the ])otato tops still green in the middle of the month. Mr. H. J. Cambie saw wheat tlourishing here in July last, but on his retui-n in September it had been cut down by frost. Such are the notes that can be obtained on the growth of cereals and vegetables in the district in question. From information obtained at Dunvegan, it seems that the snow disappears about the middle of April, westerly winds sweeping it away fast. The river opens at about the same time. Cultivation begins at about the end of April or first of May. The river generally begins to freeze in November. The depth of snow, I was told, averages about two feet, an estimate which agi-ees with Mr. Ilorelzky's statement. f Mr. Horetzky Avas also told that the plains were often Jiearly bare up to the month of December, though the winter usually sets in with the month of November. Sir • Report of Pro . . Indians of the 'Crce Settlement' on Stur- geon Lake, previously referred to, winter their I'orses without an}' difficulty round the borders of a neighbouring lake, the shores of which are partly open. Fi-om Hudson's Hope, the horses are sent southwai-d to Moberly's Lake to winter, and according to Mr. Selwyii, do well there. Lesser Shive Lake, with its wonderful natural meadows, has long been known as an excellent place for wintering slock, and is leferred to as such by Sir J. Richardson. / Some general idea of the leriifth and character of the seasons at Fort OiieninK and St. John may be gained by an examination of the extracts from the river, journals from 18G6 to 1875, published by Mr. Selwj'n.f The dates of opening and closing of Peace River, being an important clue to the mean temperature^ of the region, may be quoted as summarized by Prof Macoun in the same report (p. 150) : Ice Itreaking Ice drifting, first time 1866 April 19 Nov. 7. 186V " 21 " 8. 1868 " 20 " 7. 1869 <• 23 " 8. 1870 " 26 no record. 1871 " 18 "10. 1872 " 19 " 8. 1873 " 23 " 4. 1874 " 19 Oct. 31. 1875 " 16 The average date of the breaking up of the ice may thus be stated to Average, be April 21st; that on which ice is running in the river for the tirst time, November 7th. In 1792-3, when wintering at the mouth of Smoky River, Sir Alexander Mackenzie observed the ice to be running tor the first time on November Otli, while the river was cleai' of ico on the 25th April. I have been unal)le to find any precise records of the dates of closing and opening of the Saskatchewan, but Dr. Hector states these are usually the second week of November and the second week of Api'il, respectively. The Saskatchewan is a more i'a|)id stream than the Peace. ' bf • VoyaKes, p. 131-132. t lleport of Progress, Qeol. Survey of Canada, I875-76, p. 84. 1 i i ! 1 1 , ii '\% In i i '^ i !!■ ! i*' 1 1; ill; !li)!l ■S il I i j; !l |! U'l' liill! "• I iiMr 72 B QEOtiOOICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Valley and plateHU cora- pared' Observed tem- peratures. Witli regard to the probable difference between the actual valley of the Peace, and the plateau foi-mingthe general surface of the country, Prof. Macoun observes,* speaking of the vicinity of Fort St. John, that notwithstanding the ditt'ercnce in altitude, the beri'ies on the plateau ripened about a week only later than those near the river, while ho was informed that there was about the same difference in the time of disappearance of the snow in spring. Wiiile at Dunvegan, I ascer- tained that a similar difference was observed (hero, but it was added thai this obtained chiefly with the wooded parts of the plateau, the snow disappearing on the prairies much about the same time as in the valley. In mj' diary, under date September Sth, I find the following entry : — " Aspens and beriy bushes about the Peace River valley now looking <[uite autumnal. On the ])lateau, 800 or 900 feet higher, not nearly so much so. Slight tinge of 3'cllow oidy on some aspen groves." This difference, though not altogether constant and dejtending much on diversity of soil, appears to be actual. In October, 1872, Mr. Iloret/.k}- writes : | " We observed that, curiously enough, the vegetation upon these uplands did not ajjpear to have suffered so much from the effects of frost, this being probably due to the fact of the air in these upper regions being constantl}' in motion, while in the deep and capacious valley of the river the winds have often no effect." The difference between the valley and the ]ilatcau being thus verj* small, I have not treated scpai-ately the observations for temperature taken by myself in the different situations. Most of the observations, howevei', refer to the ])lateau ; and including the whole time spent in the countiy, from the Middle Forks of Pine River to the bank of the Athabasca, cover a period of nearly two months. The mean minimum temj^eratui-e for the month of August, deduced from observations ex- tending from the tlth to the 31st of the month, is 300°. The mean of observations at a.m. diirii)g the same period is 42-3°. That of the observations at G p.m , ,')i>-.')\ In September the mean minimum tem- perature was 28-1°. The mean of morning observations 34-3°, of evening observations 515°. I have endeavoured to deduce from these observations mean temperatures for the months in question, by correct- ing them by the tables of houi-ly variations in tempei-ature given by ('. A. Schott in the Smithsonian Contributions to Knowledge (No. 277), but find it impossil-Ie to do so, as the daily range is here so much greater than that of an}^ of the ])laces represented by the tables, which refer chiefly to the eastern portion of the continent. It would appear, that while in most places the mean temperature of the day is reached * Op.cit.,p. 155. t Canada on the Pacifio, p. 44. exp( thri\ diui" NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 13 b ley of latry, 1, that latoiiu lile ho ime of asccr- added III, the in the lowing jy now ler, not voves." inch on 3rctxky n upon 3 ettects c upper ipaeiouB lus very lerature •vations, Hpent in of the inimum ionfl ex- mean of it of the um tem- 54-3", of )m these correct- given hy ge (No. so much s, which I appear, s reached about 8 p.m., it is found in the Peace River country notfarfrom 6 p.m., by rea,son of the increased rapidity of loss of heat by radiation due to gi-eater elevation and dryer atmosphere. The maximum tcmperatui-o was seldom observed, but the daily range is very great, and the maxi- mum ])robably several times reached 80° in August, and often sur- passed 70° in September. From the 6th to the Slst of August I registered two niifhts of frost, Frosts regis- " " " tered. on the 13th and 20th of the month, when the thermometer showed K2° and 26°, i"cs])ectivcly. Both of these were obsei'ved t)n the plateau, but one at least of them (that of the 20th) must have occurred also in the valley, from the eft'ects produced at Dunvogan on tcndei- vegeta- tion. These frosts occurred in very tine weather, following a day of strong westerly wind, the result of which is to remove from the surface of the earth the whole of the lower heated layer of the atmosphei-e. This, succeeded by a calm and cloudless night with transparent sky, causes the thermometer to sink below the freezing-point before morn- ing. When not preceded by strong wind, mere transparency of the atmosphere seems seldom or never to load to frost in August, in this district, as many Iteautifully starlight nights without an apj)roach of the mercury to the free/.ing-point were experienced. Though in some cases such fi-osts as those may be general, and ex- tend over a Avide district of country, it is more nsuall}- found that they are quite local in character. A few floating clouds, or light wreaths of mist, may arrest radiation so far as to prevent frost over the gi-eater part of the country, while some spot accidentally exposed during the whole night undei" a clear sky, experiences a temporatiire below 32°. The contour, and character ol" vegetation of the counti-y, also have much to do with the occurrence of frosts, and i( is very Impiently the case that river valleys are more subject to frosts than the upland dis- tricts. During the month of September, in a region for (he most part wooded, and often above the average altitude, between Dunvegan and the Athabasca, nineteen frosts were registered, the actually lowest temperature being 20° on September 18th. Through the kindness of Colonel Jarvis, of the North-west Mounted comparison Police, I have been able to secure a co])y of records kept by Dr. Hereh- u^tchowan.''"^' mer, of Fort Saskatchewan, on the Saskatchewan River, about twenty miles north-east of Edmonton. For com]iarison with the observed temperatures in the portion of the Peace River country now discussed, they are invaluable; for in the whole district surrounding Fort Saskat- chewan and Edmonton we now know, from actual and i-epeated experiment, that wheat and all othei- ordinary- cei-eals and vegetables thrive, and yield most abundant cro])s. The climate, in its great diurnal and annual range, corresponds exactly with that of the Peace ill '! i u 1 1 1 'If '' i.i Aii^. I I!'] f Means. General con- clusion. 74 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Jliver country. Fort Saskatchewan in Kituatod on the brow of the SaHkatchewaii valley, about seventy feet above the river, and therefore probably less liable to fro.sts than either the bottom of the river valley or extensive flat, tracts of plain, whore there is little circulation of air. This, with the position of the thernionieters in rcgai'd to the buildings, leads to the belief that if at all i.i error, as representing the climate of the region generally, the indicated temperatures are slightly too great. The thermometer appears to have been read in all cases to the nearest degree only. A comparison may l)e miide between the temperatures observed in the Peace River country during August and September, with those at Fort Saskatchewan, as follows: — Peace River country, mean of minima dnrinj^ August 39-9" " " '• Septembci- 28-1" " frosts experienced during August 3 " " " September 19 Fort Saskatchewan, mciin of niininia during August 39-3'' " " " September 31 -1" " frosts experienced during August " " " September 15 " mean of maxima during August 77-8° " " " Septc^mber 68 -T " deduced mean temp, of August 58 ■ 6° " " " September 49-6° The moan of maxima and actual mean temperature for the months cannot be staled for the Peace River country. The actual mean for Fort Saskatchewan is obtained by adding the minima and maxima for each month iogether, and is pi-obabl}* very nearly correct. While regretting that the data at disposal for the determination of the agricultural value of the Peace River country are not fuller, we may, I believe, arrive with considerable certaint}^ at the general fact that it is great. From such comparison as can be msule, it would be premature to allow that the climate oi" the Peace River is inferior to that o the region about Kdmonton on the Saskatchewan. It is true that in both the Saskatchewan and Pea<'o River districts the season is none too long for the cultivation of wheat, but if the crop can bo counted on as a sure one — and experience seems to indicate that it may — the occurrence of early and late frosts may be regarded with comjiara- tivc indirt'crence. The season is at least equally short throughout the whole fertile belt from the Peace River to Manitoba, though early anil late frosts are not so common in tlie low valley of the Red River. The almost simultaneous txdvance of spring along the whole line of this fertile belt, is indicated by the dates of the flowering of the various NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 75 b plants, a point referred to by mo in Home detail elsewhere* Tt in fur- ther unqiiOHtionable that the winter is less severe, and not subject to the same extremes in the Peace liiver and Up])er Saskatchewan regions as in Manitoba. We have ah-oady found reason to believe that the early and late LimitinKcomii- frosts, and not the absence of a sutficiont aiijgregate amount of heat, 'y|','ure."*" constitute the limiting condition of wheat culture in the N(U'th-west; but that neither the Saskatchewan nor the Peace River countries lie upon the actual verge of the profitable cultivation of wheat, appeal's to be pi'oved by the fact that oats succeed on the Saskatchewan, and also — in so i'ar as one or two seasons can bo accepted as evidence — on (ho Peace River; while i( is well known that this cereal is less tolerant of summer frost than wheat. This is further proved by the fact that at Fort Vermilion and Athabasca Lake, 180 and 300 miles, rospectivol}', i-ower Pence, north-east of Dunvegan, Prof. Macoun found wheat and barley ripen- ing well ; but in this instance the fact is complicated by the circum- stance of the decreasing altitude of the country, whiidi introduces a new condition. As no knowledge has been gained of this country on the Lower Peace in addition to that collected by Prof Macoun in 1875, f it is not included in the above discussion, though from it addi- tional great areas might doubtless be added to the fertile ti-act. Referring to the journals kept at Fort St. John, Mr. Selwyn, in the report already several times referred to, comes to the conclusion that the climate of the Peace River compares favourably with that of the Sas- katchewan or Montreal. To give some idea of the value of a tract of generally fertile country Possible wheat such as that now described, let us assume, as above, that the area of'"'"'"'''" actually cultivable land is " "lOO square miles, or 15,1-40,000 acres. Let us suppose, for simplicity of calculation, that the whole area weie . s(jwn in wheat, the yield, at the rate of twenty bushels to the acre, /^ would be 30^^,800,000 bushels. / The ])ortion of the Peace River country embraced in the explorations Northern of 1879, and treated of in this report, however, by no means includes the [.u'l'tur^e*! "^^^ whole fertile tract, as the statements made regarding the lower pail of the Peace by Prof MacounJ and others show. Sir J. Richardson places the northern limit of the profitable cultivation of wheat in the Macken- zie valley, at Fort Liard, on the Liard River (lat. 60°5' N.), while from trustworthy information obtained by Prof Macoun, it ajipears that oven at Fort Simpson, on the Mackenzie in lat. 01° 51', wheat succeeds * (.ieology and Roaouroea of the 49th Parallel, 1875, i). 279. t Report of Progress (leol. Survey of Canaila, 1875-76. 1 Report of Progress Qeol. Survey of Canada, 1875-7C. m iii ii •i irf: 7C n GEOLoaicAii situvet of canada. four tiiiiOH out of five, and barley always rijicn.s from the 12tli to Iho 20ti> o<" August. Obgervationp at I" l^lic I'oport of tlic Meteorological Department for 187C, a serios of Fort Simpson, observations talcen by Mr. J. S. Onions at Fort Simjison is ])rinte(l. This, tiiougb extending merely i'rom .May to November, 1875, seems to show that the climate compares very favourably with that oi' the Upper Peace Uiver. No frosts occurred i'rom the 18th of May to the 10th of Sejilcmber. The mean temperatures of the months of growth are as follows, the figures in the tirst column being from the source just alluded to, those in the second from the appendix to Sir J. Richard- • son's " Journal of a Bout Voyage " : — I. II. o o May 440 48-16 Jnno .f)8-8 03 04 July 03-5 GO -97 AugiiHt G3-2 53-84 September 44-8 49-10 The tigui'cs dilf'cr considei-ably, but those under column 1. are probably the more accurate, as the second sericH dejiends on observations taken at 8 a.m. and 8 p.m., to which a con-ection of the kind previously mentioned as inappliable to this western region, has l)een applied. Infliienco of It has often been slated, in a general way, that the cause of the excop- n wiiu .. |_jo,j.^||^ iUvourable climate of the Saskatchewan and Peace IJiver coun- tries, as compared with that of the eastern poJion of the American continent, is to be found in the jirevalence of wiu-m westei-jy winds Rxtrnot from from the Pacific. Sir Alexander Mackenzie s])eaks of th.ese westerly Mi.ikeii7.io. \yi,nia i„ wiutei', wi-iting: "I had alreaily observed at Athabasca, that this wind never failed to bring us clear mild weather, whei-eas, when it blew from the ojiposite quarter, it produced snow. Here it is much more percc|>tible, for ii' it blows hard south west for four houi-s a thaw is the consequence, and if the wind is at north-east it brings sleet and snow. To this cause it may be attributed that there is so little snow in this part of the world. These warm winds come off the Pacific Ocean, which cannot, in a direct line, be very far from us, the IoH. ir.vpcithetical ntiso of the West Coast. i ^^^H :• w ' ^^B r ^H • Tlio figures are Dr. Ilann'p, quoted by Hoffmoycr in the Donisli (Geographical Society's Juunuil, and reproduced in Nature, August, 1877. i M '•■■' 11 Afl'c.'tod liy lociil circiim- KfTect ol'liinij; suiniuor (1:i.vm on vc^utiitidii. LoiiKth (if sun- liKlit, oil Peace Kivor. EITei't of pro- l(int!od tliiy- liglit in North Euro|io. rs B OKOLOOtrAL StlRVEY OF CANADA. (18° v.), the gain on doscent to tlio lovol of YOO motroH to 13° C. (2iJ-4° F.). The amount of heat lost by tho air duiing its passa^^o across the mouiilainoiis region, by i-adiation and contact with the snowy |>cai\s, cannot l)e dotcnuined. It is of course mucii {greater in winter than in summer, and depends also on the upeed with which (he current of air travels. Taking; the mean summer temperature of the coast at about 12° C. (54° F.) and allowing; several degrees for loss by radiation, it becomes easy to understand how the western prairies may be tloiidcd with air nearly as warm as that of the coast, though it lias travelled to them over a I'egion comparatively cold. Owing to the gi'eat width of the mountain barrier, the main result is complicated by local details, regions of coiisiderablo pi-ecipitalion occurring at each imi)ortaiit niountiiin range, with subsidiary drier regions in the lee. The last of those regions of precipitation is that of the Rocky Mountain iiangc properly so-calletl. In descending from this, a further addition of heat is made to the aii-, which then flows down as a dry and warm current to the east. In addition to the favourable climatic conditions indicated by the thermometer, the length of the day in summer in the higher northern latitudes favours the rapid and vigorous growth of vegetation, and takes the place to a certain extent >f heat in this respect. This has been supposed to bo the case from the luxuriant vegetation of some northern regions, but Alfonso de CandoUe appears to have put the mat- tor beyond doubt by subjecting it to direct experiment. In latitude 5(5° which may be taken as representing the position of much of tho Peace River country, sunrise on the 21st of June, occurs at Hh. 12m., sunset at 81). 50m.; while six degrees further south, in latitude 50°, which may be iissumed to represent Manitoba, sunrise occurs on tho same day at 3h. 4t)m., sunset at Sh. 13m. The duration of sunlight is, in the tij'st ease, 171i. 38m. ; in the second, l(Jh. 2-tm., or one hour and a ([uarter in excess in tho northern locality. This excess of course decreases to zero at the spring ami autumn equinoxes, and tho ditfcrence is reversed in the winter. In further illustration of this point, the following extracts from a note in the American JouriuU of Science, vol. xx., p. 74, may be cited : — "It is well understood that for a plant to complete its develi>pment and mature its seeds, a certain sum of heat is required, varying accortl- ing to the species. It appears, — as indeed might antecedently be expected, — that wo shoulil rather say a certain amount of solar radia- tion ; for light, to a cei-tain extent, may replace temperature. This is shown in tho effects of almost uninterrupted summer sunshine upon vegetation in high latitudes. According to Schiibeler of Chi-istiana and others, barley ripens in eighty-nine days from tho sowing in NORTtl-WEST TKRaiTOBY. 79 B Finlund, while it rcquii'os odo Imndrcd dayK in the sontFi of Sweden, Ihoiij^ii (lie liittt'i" enjoys ii eonsideraidy lii;j;lier lemperHluie. A ^ruin of wiieiit grown attiearly liie h(vi level in Norway, or in lower latitudeM, when ])roi»ai;a(ed at high elevations or in a high latitude, will mature eai'lier, even nlthoiigli at a lower tomperatnrc; and it is said that, within litnltrt coinpalihle with its cultivation the grain increases in size and weight." " iSehiiheler also niaUos out that grain, alter several generations ol" cultivation in the highest latitudes or the highest elevations conipatihle with its cultivation, will wlu'ii transferred hack to its original locality rijien earlier than grain which has not heen moved. Ihil it loses this precocity in "a few generations, and the seeds gradually diminish to I he former size and weight. I'lanls raised from seeds ripene(| in a higii northern locality are hardier than those grown in the south, and are better able to resist exeossive winter cold." A further circumstance giving to the Peace River couidry and that iniiimnity of on the ujjpei- pai't of the Saskatchewan, other things being e([ual, a tVomUiu'locust. value as fai-ming land acre for acre considerably greater than that of most parts of the Noi-th-west, is the immunity of this region from the visits oi' the devastating locu.st or grasshopper (Cnloptenus spretus). 1 have elsewhere discussed the question of locust invasions, in several pa]>ors,* and it has since been taken up by the Unitjd States Entomo- logical Commission. I It must suffice to state hero, that while long series of yeai's may pass without the occurrence of serious invasions, those must continue always, or at least for a very long time, to consti- tute a drawback to the whole territory lying south of a lino drawn about sixty miles south of Kdmonton, and thence nearly following the border of the wooded country southward and eastward to Manitoba. The Athabasca River from Drikt-pile Camp to Lesser Sr.AVE River. The Athabasca River derives its name from the great lake intoN,„„g„iti,o which it Hows, which is calknl A po-pas-kow by the Creos. The upper '''^'"''" part of the river is known as .Mus-ta-hi-s!-pl or CJi-eat River. On reaching its north baidc on our traverse ft'^m Sturgeon Lake, j.;{j-„jfg j„ g,^,^, Mr. MacLeod and I had arranged to separate, Mr. MacLeod (-'0''tinuiiig';||'J.^','=iM^y|With on overland toward Dirt J^ake, while I intended to make a canoe and •"'*"'"''• deseentl the river. As no traces had yet been found of the pai'ty which was supposed t(j be on the way from Edmonton to moot us, we now set tire to a great pile of drift-logs on one of the bars, and sent one Indian • Canadiiin Naturalist, Vol. VIII., pp. 119, 207, 411. t First Annual Report, United States Eatoinological Commiision, 1878. 'il : I: ^^^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) r// v.. 1.0 I.I 1.25 U£|2j8 12.5 ■^ 1^ 12.2 £ 1^ 12.0 1.4 1.6 ! ^;i '/ ^ 4i>^ 1 V iV ^ -q,^ 80 B QBOLOQICAL 8DRVKY OF CANADA. lis {■ S' i i, 'Pi V u I. Build a oan- va8K canoe. up and another down the river to seek for information, but all with no reault. It was further unexpectedly found that no cottonwood trees suitable for niakiii/:^ a canoe existed in the valley, and as the river was evidently quite unsuited to bo descended on a raft, by reason of its swiftness and the number of shoal bars which occur now on one side and now on the other, it became difficult to know in what way the programme could be cari-ied out. It was finally decided to use the can- vass cargo-covers and blaidcct v/rappings in the construction of a canoe. To this all hands devoted themselves for three days, when wo had the satisfaction of seeing a large canoe, properly framed and strengthened, which when painted over with a mixture of bacon fat and spruce gum WJis nearly water-tight. I hiul great difficulty in persujuling our Enguge a guide last Indian guide, Antoine, to accompany me down the river, which he was supposed to know something about having worked Hudson Bay boats on it many years ago. Having at last induced him by oft'ers of good remuneration to accompany us, and having waited a day till he provided himself with a sufficient supply of moccasins for the return journey, wo sot out on our descent of the river on September 30th. Mr. MacLeod and I luitl previously divided the provisions etill remaining, finding about twenty days supply for eacij party, which we hoped would be sufficient to carry us to Edmonton. Besides myself the occu- pants of the canoe were W. McNeil of Victoria, Antoine, a Cree Indian, with whom we could not converse, and his little son, about twelve years old. The Athabasca rp^e Athabasca River was formerly much used by the Hudson Bay tunnerlyn Tr i i Company as a route to Jasper House, and thence across the Rocky Mountains to the Boat Encampment on the Columbia, but is now abandoned as a trade route. Dr. Hector followed the upper part of the river from Old Fort Assineboine to Jasper House in January, 1859, and has given a sketch of it on the map accompanying Pallisier's Repoi't. , • • ', From our starting point. Drift-pile Camp, a few miles above the mouth of Marsh Head Creek, to the mouth of McLeod River, the Athabasca valley probably averages two miles in width fi-om i-im to rim, and is from 300 to 400 feot in depth, though the banks become somewhat lower and retire further from the stream near its confluence with the McLeod. The river itself is generally wide, shallow and very rapid, spreading among numerous gi-avelly bars and small islands. Extensive flats occur at heights of six to forty feot above the river, but the soil on these is evidently poor and sandy, though improving considerably in the lower part of that portion of the river now described, where also the scru^pme is found less abundantly, its place being taken by cottonwood groves. Low scai-ped banks with oxpo- tiade route. Drift-pilo Camp to the McLood. !f!l wo tho 01', tho rim to boijoino tUienco 1(1 very isliiiidrt. rivor, proving or now ts place th oxpo- mlr. 1 IT' Illl' V'i w iW* i\ ¥^'. "li '! . •• ,' ;• ■ 41 1 ■ ' W' »Vv :*■..•*'•■ V" f.'^ ■■ ; •*■ ' , ' ^ i^- f'. b ^ -4 *i J ;,.v». ■% >}■ ■"■ t-. ' V . . *4v — -.•j'Vtt*. u •I- »' in' 'I '! .''■i:i' 'J I ^M r, /-(^ .■^ .'^4i,i' :' ' -fc:'!'*' v:^.- '::,. * •' ■■ ■' long } now The fli NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 81 B sures of soft sandstone, shales and coals occur at intervals, and the sides of the valley though in general gently sloping and tree-clad, are occasionally steep and roughened by outcrops of sandstone. The floods on this part of the river seem seldom to rise higher than eight feet, and never to exceed ten. In descending the river we were keeping a sharp lookout for traces of Find anotn the party from Edmonton, and at length — nearly twenty miles below monton party. Drift-pile Camp — we noticed a newly blazed tree, and on landing found a note attached to it. This had been written by Mr. Brown, who stated that he had reached the river at this point on September 23rd, having travelled three days on foot from where they had left their horses in a region impassable from dense masses of fallen timber. Their supplies had also become^ exhausted, and it was intended to turn back at once for Edmonton. It was therefore fourtunate that we had not depended at all on the Edmonton party for supplies or assistance. The actual conflux of the McLeod River was not seen, as we jjassed From the Mu- it without notice among islands. We soon found that our guide had Assiueboii'ie. forgotton nearly all he had ever known about the rivei% East of the McLeod are some low hills which rise to 500 feet near the bank of the Athabasca, but are probably quite limited in extent. Prom this point to Old Fort Assineboino, a distance of thirty-three miles in a straight line, the river valley is on the whole narrower than before, and the banks lower, seldom seeming to exceed 200 feet in height. The river is characterized by the presence of numerous and large islands, which sometimes occupy nearly the whole width of the valley bottom, the stream spreading out and becoming very shoal. The current is at first rai)id as before, but for some distance above Old Fort Assineboine is quite tranquil. The flats and flat land on the islands is in great part composed of fine silt and fairly well adapted for agriculture. About half the area of the flats is above the level of flood-water. Old Fort Assineboino has been abandoned for many years, and not Fon Assine- long ago the ruins of the building were destroyed by fire. Its site is now marked by a few irregular heaps of stones and charred wood. The flat on which it was situated is on the left or north bank of the river and is extensive. Six miles beyond the site of Old Fort Assineboine, the river turns Fort Awine- suddenly to a north-eiistward course, in which it continues with little giaveRiJir?" deviation to the mouth of the Lesser Slave River. The plateati forming the general level of the country, appears to have an elevation of about 200 feet above the river for some distance below the old fort, but gradually declines till it is not more than 100. The banks at the same time lose to a great extent their escarpment-like character, and form gentle slopes on each side, or rise from the river in successive low t I !< 'i :!!l ; I \'A lii. lii ri 82 B OEOLOOICAL 80RVEY OP CANADA. steps. The flats bordering the river are now, too, much narrower. The current of the river is slack, probably not averaging three miles an hour, and though there are occasional little rapids, there seems to be nothing to prevent navigation by a stern-wheel ateancr. The banks are chiefly wooded with poplar second-growth. A few tamarac {Larix Americana) trees were observed here and there, and our guide infoi-med us that pretty extensive tamarac swamps lay, in some places, on both sides of the river away from its immediate course. PerabinaRiver. About half way from the old fort to the mouth of Lessor Slave River, the Pembina, or Mi-ni-pl-mi-nan-si-pl, joins from the right. It is about 150 feet only in width at the mouth, but deep, and filled with clear brown water, very different in appearance from .the muddy flood of the Athabasca. ; .j Lesser Slave River and Lake. Decide to an cend Lesser Slave River. Character of the river. On arriving at the mouth of Lesser Slave River, on October 6th, I found a note which the Rev. Mr. Gordon had left there nearly a month previously, when on his way in the Hudson Bay boat to Athabasca Landing. I was anxious to hurry on to the Landing, as I wsis already late for my appointment with Mr. McConnell, and our canvas canoo was very poorly adapted for working up such a stream as the Lesser Slave. Finding however from Mr. Gordon's note that none of the parties from the oast had reached this point, it became evident that a running survey of the Lessor Slave, and latitude of the outlet of the lake, would be necessary to fill the gap in the exploration of a route for railway purposes. Wc therefore applied ourselves to the task of ascending the river, which after four days of arduous laboui', in cold stormy weather, we accomplished. The river, from its mouth to the lake, is about forty-one miles in length and very crooked. For eighteen miles from the mouth it forms a succession of rapids, which are shallow and stony. Of these there are about twenty in all. Above this the stream is tranquil, though still exceedingly crooked, and flows at the rate of about 1"7 miles an hour. In width the stream decreases from an avorage of about 200 feet on its lower part to 100 or even less in its The banks and "ppcr. The banks near the mouth are about eighty feet high, and oou^t""*^'"* each covox bend of the river hero forrais a scarped slope, while the opposite side presents a flat, or series of low terraces often lightly wooded, but sometimes open and covered with fine grass. In ascending the stream the banks decrease in elevation, till near the lake they scarcely rise above the water level, and broad swamps with fine grass spread widely in all directions, and would afford vast quantities of excellent natural hay. The soil on the flats along the river is generally good, but those are quite inconsidoi'able in area. That of the general imm NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 83 B surface of the country seems, however, to be equally good, though wide swampy areas are reported at a little distance back from the river. The character of the deposits shown in the banks indicates that Lesser Slave Lake has at one time spread much more widely, but that the rim of the basin containing it has been gradually cut through by the Slave Lake Hiver, Ice marks produced in the spring floods were ob- Flood marks. served at a height of fifteen feet above the low water level on the lower part of the river. Near Lesser Slave Lake, the river makes a loop several miles in circuit, to avoid which a portage of sixty-three yards may be made, across a neck of low ground. Lesser Slave Lake is called A-yi tl-i-noo Sa-ga-he-gun by the Crees, Lejiger Slave and but imperfectly translated by the English name. A-yi-tl-i-noo means a foreign Indian, and though here referring to some story con- nected with the Chepewayans to the north-east, is also used to designate the Blackfeet and other tribes by the southern Crees. The lake is a great expanse of water about seventy miles in extreme length, by fourteen miles in gi'eatest width. It is evidently shoal throughout, and I was informed that there are only two places wrere the water is deep along shore. At the east end is a hard flat sandy beach, with sand ridges and low dunes behind it. The lake is bounded by high hilly country, at no great distance both to the north and south. The name of the highest point of the hills or ridge to the north was given to me as . Raspberry Mountain. Those to the south are genex'ally flat-topped, and resemble the remnants of a higher plateau, most of which has been removed by denudation. They probably average 500 to 600 feet in height above the lake, and may reach 1000 feet in some places. Addi. tional particulars with regard to the lake will be found in Mr. McCon- nell's report. I had hoped to obtain photographs and sketches of it, but after waiting in a very uncomfortable camp during the afternoon of October 10th and morning of the 11th, with no abatement in the storm of wind with flurries of snow, which had begun on our arrival. Descend Lesser decided to set out on our return. On the 12th we ran all the rapids ^'*''*^"'*''* safely, in a blinding snow storm, and camped ecrly in the afternoon on the Athabasca, as the air was too full of sncw to allow me to take bearings from point to point on the river. •>' ' ',- , At the date of our visit the whole vicinity of Slave Lake was popu- ^jjj j-^^, lous with wild fowl on their way southward — ducks of several species, geese, cranes and swans. , ! I n '(Mi ; i 84 b Character of the river and banks. Aspect as a railway route. Plateau south of the Atha- bosoo. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Athabasca Kiver from Lesser Slave River to Athabasca Landing. From the mouth of the LewHci'Shive River to AthubsLsea Landing, the AthabaHcu flowH first for Home miles to the north of east, and then takes a HOtith-Houth-eaHtward course to the Lantling. The distance by the river, which is here floxuous but not very crooked, is sixty-three miles. A rounded hill or rid^e about throe hundred feet high stands at the junc- tion of the Lesser Slave and Athabiisca Rivers, but the general level of the plateau for some distance below appears not to oxcood two hundred feet. It gradually increases, however, till it reaches a Ijeight of 350 feet at the Landing. The current of the river ])robably averages about two miles an hour throughout, and there are several little rapids, whore it spreads pretty widely and becomes somewhat shoal. All these might, however, I believe, bo surmounted by a stern-whccl steamer at high water. No rock exposures are seen, and only occa- sional slides, most of which are of old date and show little appearance of I'ccent movement. The flats are generally narrow and pass at a short distance from the water's edge into the slopes of the valley. These are almost everywhere light, seldom exceeding 15° and often about 10° only. No hills rising above the general level of the plateau wore scon in any direction. In its aspect as a possible railway route, the following points may be noted of the countiy between Slave Lake and Athabasca Landing. From Slave Lake, which appears to present every facility for the passage of a railway along either shore, the host lino would follow the south side of tht) Lesser Slave River, not in the immediate valloy, but on tho edge of the plateau bordering it. At the mouth of the river, the Athabasca might be crossed by a bridge 760 feet long and about forty feet high, with excellent approaches. From this point it would probably be best to follow the right side of tho Athabasca valley, not- withstanding its somewhat sinuous coui-se, to the Landing, when the summit of the plateau could be gained without difficulty by tho valloy of the Tow-ti-now-si-pi, which enters there. Tho bank of the Athabasca, as indicated by tho description previously given, is favourable, and no heavy slides occur in this portion of its length. A line taking the north bank of the riyor would bavo to cross tho Lesser Slave River near its mouth, with a bridge of 150 to 200 foot long, and might cross to tho south side of the Athabasca at the Landing, with a bridge of 912 feet, with good approaches. Owing to tho uniform character of the banks of tho valley, it would also be po-ssible to gain tho level of tho plateau without necessitating very heavy work, at several intermediate points. The character of the plateau lying immediately south of the Atha- basca is probably favourable, and there are few streams oi Any size |l>!!l NORTH-WEST TERRITORr. 85 S joining tho river in this part of its couifie. An extensive view from the highest point of tho plateau above tho Landing shows a nearly level horizon in every direction, its uniformity l^eing broken only by a few low ridges many miles distant. A railway line from Lesser Slave Lake to Lac La Biche could bcR„„jgi,y made more direct, by cutting across the V-shaped bend of tho Athabasca ^^'|ji**g"^f^,gpg which has its apex at the Landing. No impediments to such a line in tho way of hills or high ground were seen, either from tho banks above the mouth of Lesser Slave Eiver or from the point at tho Land- ing just referred to. The Moose River joins the Lessor Slave thirteen and a half miles from its mouth, coming from the eastward, and appears to bo a sluggish stream about eighty feet wide. I was in- formed b}' Indians that this river can be ascended in small canoes, numerous portages being necessary on account of jams of drift-wood. A portage of about two "spells," (say two miles) leads then over low ground to the Calling River, by which one may descend to the Athabasca, reaching it some miles below the mouth of the Riviere La Biche. There is also a trail by which tho Indians take horses from the east end of Lesser Slave Lake to the Athabasca, near the point just indicated ; and it is said, that from points near the Riviiire La Biche the Raspberry Mountain, on the north shore of Lesser Slave Lake, may be seen, the intervening country being all comparatively low. A reference to Mr. McConnell's report on the Athabasca below the Landing, will show that it runs westward for some miles below the entrance of the Riviere La Biche, and affords facilities foi' the descent of a railway line to the river level which would probably render it unnecessary to follow the Calling River down to its mouth. Athabasca Landing to Edmonton. On arriving at Athabasca Landing, on October 14th, I found that Arraniirements Mr. McConnell with the pack animals had been waiting there some surveys, days. To reach the Landing ho had been obliged to go from the east end of Lesser Slave Lake to Old Fort Assineboine, and then to Jldmon- ton. The weather was now cold and wintry, with several inches of soft snow on the ground, and the time appointed for the rondezous at Edmonton at hand, while the practicability of the Riviere La Biche or Wa-was-ke-8oo-8l-pI for railway purposes, remained to be determined. We were so fortunate as to find a free-trader at the Landing, with a boat, about to set out on his last trip to Lesser Slave Lake with gooils, and from him were able to purchase a small bark canoe, with which we were assured the ascent of the Riviere La Biche might be accom- plished. The canvas canoe was left in a shed belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, and on the 15th Mr. McConnell, with a half-breed named r\ 80 B OBOLOaiOAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Road to Ed monton. Country south of Landing. Adam Caillon, left the Landing to descend the Athabasca, ascend the Eivi^re La Biche, and make the best of his way to Victoria or Edmon- ton after reaching the Lac La Biche settlement. No time was to bo lost, as the small river might now at any time become partly choked with ice and impassible for the canoe. The weather turning clear and cold on the night of the 15th, enabled me to obtain observations for latitude, aiid on the morning of the lOth I set out for Edmonton with the pack animals. Prom Edmonton to the Athabasca Landing the Hudson Bay Com- pany has constructed a rough cart-road to facilitate the transport of their goods toward Lesser Slave Lake and Peace River. Edmonton is nearly due south of the Landing, at a diotance of eighty-three miles in a straight line, or about ninety-six miles by odometer. On leaving the Landing the trail to Edmonton follows the Tow-ti-now sl-pl southward for about thirty-two miles. Eight miles further c;i the road crosses a shallow creek which unites the Bridge Lakes. The valley of the Tow-ti-now runs nearly direct, and is wide and deep, though the sides are often a little lumpy and irregular. With the exception of limited areas in the valley, the whole country has been burnt over, and is strewn with logs, among which shi-ubby second- growth is appearing. Fine grass and pea-vine appears everywhere, and the country would be a good grazing one, though the soil is generally sandy, and on the plateau there are numerous boulders, often packed closely together, and generally of Laurentian origin. Fairly good soil is Banksian pine, seen in a few spots. The surface of the plateau shows a tendency to arrangement in north and south trending ridges, parallel in a general way to the valley of the stream. The Banksian pine is now found in abundance, replacing the western scrub pine. It is much less symme- trical in habit of growth than the latter, with more numerous and diffuse branches and a thicker and rougher bark. J'rom Bridge Lakes, with an appioximate elevation of 2415 feet, the road gradually ascends, and in a few miles crosses the watershed between the streams flowing direct to the Arctic Ocean and those going to Hudson Bay. This does not rise much above the general level, having an altitude of about 2485 feet, and though resembling a range of low hills from a distance, is found on approach to have very light slopes. It is an undulating sandy tract of country which has probably been shaped by current* during a general submergence, and shows a tendency to the arrangement of its features in a north-west and south-east bear- ing. It is lightly wooded with Banksian pine and poplar. A small brook soon leads to the Vermilion River or Wi-a-min-sl-pi of the Crees, which occupies a wide shallow valley and is a sluggish winding stream about thirty-five feet in width. Its approximate elevation is 2105 feet. Watershed. NORTH-WEST TEUBITOBY. 87 B South of tho Vermilion the trail crosses an indistinct low undulating watershed, and passing Long Lake follows the stream which flows from it to the Sturgeon River. South of the Vermilion the country Rj^e of prairie assumes a distinctly prairie aspect. The surface is covered with short"""" '*'' close grass, and groves of willow and poplar are chiefly confined to the valleys. Many old buflalo trails and wallows appear, and a few scattered bufliilo bones were observed, though no traces of this animal were noticed north of the Vermilion. This prairie has probably been produced by fire, but is of much older date than the grassy country to the noi'th, wich is still in process of denudation by succe sive fires. The land between the Vermilion and the Sturgeon is of fairly good quality with a great admixture of vegetable mould. The Sturgeon River also occupies a wide shallow valley, but is aStuwteon River much larger stream than the Vermilion, averaging sixty feet wide by one deep. In Cree the Sturgeon is called Mi-koo-ki-pow-sl-pi, or Red Willow River. The surface from the Sturgeon to the Saskatchewan may be described as a gently undulating prairie of uniform fertility, with a deep black loamy soil, yet light enough to be warm and easily worked. Belts of aspen with coppice of willows vary the monotony, and occasional swamps with fine natural hay occur. The surface de- clines gradually toward the Saskatchewan valley. Where crops have been tried, wondei-fully favourable returns have been obtained. Edmonton and its vicinity having been frequently noticed by pre- Edmonton, vious travellei-s, and its lignite coal deposits described by Mr. Selwyn * and Dr. Hector, it will not be necessary to speak of it here. It may be stated, however, that on this part of the Saskatchewan there lies an extensive region of very great fertility, in which settle- ment is already advancing, and which possesses all the elements neces- sary to enable it to become, at some not very distant date, a populous province of the Dominion. Edmonton constituted the terminal point of our surveys for the sea- joumey to son. Mr. MacLeod arrived by land from the Upper Athabasca on the^^'""'''®*' same day that I reached the Port from the Landing. We were now joined also by Mr. Tupper's party, which had fallen back on Edmonton lifter their unsuccessful attempt to meet us. After a few days spent in making the necessary arrangements and selecting the strongest of the animals, we set out, on October 25th, on our journey of 900 miles to Winnipeg. The combined parties now numbered fifteen men, thirty- four horses and mules, eight Red River carts and two buck-boards. At Dack Lake, on November 12th, the carts were exchanged for flat-sleds, a heavy fall of snow having taken place, and on the 2nd of December, •Report of Propresa Geol. Surrey of Canada, 1873-74. r f I, t ! v. 88 B GBOLOaiOAL sraVEY OF CANADA. Report by Mr. McCoiinell. Road from Peace River to Lesser Slave Lake. nfter a wintry journey of thirty-oigiitdaj's ncross tho plivinH, wo woro glnd to find ourflolvoH at Winnipeg and again within hearing of a rail- way whiHtlo. ' • Description of the Country from the Confluence of the Smoky AND Peace Rivers, by the North Side of Lesser Slave Lake, to Old Fort Assineboine and Edmonton. Tho report by Mr. McConnoll — whose efficient assistance T must not omit to acition of the country round the north side of Lesser Slave Lake and thence to Old Fort Assineboine and Kdmonton, also of part of the Athal)asca, the Rivit^re and Lac La Bichc, and trail thence to Victoria, are here attached, as completing the information on the eastern portion of the area covered by our explorations. Mr. McConnell's notes cover, in addition to tho general features of the country, such observations on its geology as he was able to make. — Mr. Cambic having passed over that part of the country lying between Peace River and Lesser Slave Lake, and having described it in his report to Mr. Sandford Fleming, it will only be necessary for me in this place to give a very brief description of its general charac- teristics. Between those two points a very good road has been con- structed by the Hudson Bay Company, and passing along this, and forming an opinion of the country merely from that small portion seen from the trail in a thickly wooded region, one might, without hesita- tion, set down nearly the entire district as eminently adapted for agricultural purposes, as in the whole distance from Peace River to Lessei' Slave Lake there is not over five miles, out of a total of sixty- five, of swamp or muskeg ; the remainder of the distance being either covered with a growth of aspens, usually of small size, or open prairie land, and the soil being composed of a fine silt, topped with a covering of black mould of variable thickness. Such a conclusion would, how- ever, be very apt to be erroneous, as the country through which a road passes is very far from being a safe guide as to the character of any large section at any distance from it. The roads are usually marked out by Indians intimately acquainted with the country, and are, as a mat- ter of course, carried through the most favourable part of it. In regard to this particular i-oad, Mr, Yoimg, in charge of the Hudson Bay post at the lake, informed me that they had very great difficulty indeed in laying it out on firm ground, and in avoiding the numerous muskegs, and according to him it follows a ridge the greater part of the way, 1 NORTH-WEST TEBRITORY. 89 b (TO were if a rail- 5 Smoky AVE nn«t not Battle •t of the and tlie lineboine Ijiic La mploting 1 by our ! general } he was ry lying ^c^ibed it ssary for il charac- been con- this, and tion seen lit hesita- ipted for River to of sixty- ng either m prairie covering uld, how- ch a road )r of any irked out as a raat^ In regard Bay post indeed in muskegs, the way, with very swampy land on either side of it. But be that as it may, there must be a largo proportion of that country capable of being used for agricultural purposes, m besides the firm land, much of the swampy part could very easily bo drained. The approximate elevation of the watershed between Peace iliver and Lesser Slave Lake is 2430 feet. For several miles before reaching the lake, the trail led through aiiayg^a^p,. luxuriant growth of wild hay throe to four feet high and exceedingly thick. This belt appeared to nm round to the south of the lake; on the north, the aspen bush extends right down to the water's edge. The first part of Lessor Slave Lake seen, coming from the west, is a Western end of ' » ft ' Leiijer Slave large bay about five miles from north to south by throe from east to i^ike. west. This bay receives two rather large streams — Salt Creek, coming from the north, about fifty feet wide by a foot and a half deep, and Heart Creek, coming from the east, and being a little larger. The Hudson Bay Company's post is situated on the eastern side of this bay, facing an island about half a mile in width, which extends right across the bay from oast to west, leaving only a narrow channel of about one hundred yards wide between it and the mainland. This island in low water is about two feet only above the surface of the lake, and in high water is completely covered. The bay itself is very shallow, in low water being scarcely over two feet deep anywhere. Proceeding southward, this bay, about four miles from the point where we first reach it, narrows down to about a quarter of a mile in width, and turning directly eastward, continues so for about two miles, when the lake again widens out into another bay about four miles from eats to west and three from north to south. Itnex' narrows again until it is only about a mile wide, and then widens out into the main portion of the lake. Lesser Slave Lake is about seventy miles long, and lies almost directly Dimensions ot east and west. For about thirty miles from the narrows last mentioned, it maintains an average width of from seven to nine miles, then after narrowing again to about three miles in width, it suddenly widens out into a deep bay fully fifteen miles in width, forming the lower end of the lake. Besides the large bay, just mentioned, at the lower end of the lake. Shores, the coast line of which also contains a number of smaller bays, the northern shore of the lake is indented all. along its course with shallow bays, varying from one to seven miles from point to point, and very seldom over a mile deep. All along the western and northern sides of these bays, the beach is thickly covered with a mix- ture of gneissic, sandstone and limestone boulders, while along the eastern side it is a hard sand bank, the sand being probably piled up ■>f , .in 90 B QEOLOGIOAL StTRVET OF CANADA. Want of har- bors. Hills surround- ing the lake. Trail to White- fiah Lake. by the prevalent west winds. Along the southern side of the lake, the coast seemed to be pretty regular and to be marshy all the way. There is only one island in the main lake, and that a very small one, situated at the lower end opposite Lesser Slave River, and distant fi'om it about two and a half miles. Harborage on the lake is also veiy scarce, there being haixlly any place where a boat can obtain shelter, save by running down the entire length of the lake and getting into the river or into the lee of the small island mentioned before. Storms on the lake ai-e also very sudden, the principal ones coming from the west. Lesser Slave Lake receives from the north, besides those already mentioned, four tolerably large streams, from thirty to fifty feet wide, and also a number of smallei ones. Of the two largest of these, one called the Narrows River, falls into the lake opposite the narrows, the other at the large bay at the lower end of the lake. From the south, three or four streams fall into the lake. Looking from the northern side of the lake, a range of hills appears to run all along its southern shore, but at some distance from it, the land between the hills and the lake being marshy. The furthest of these hills seemed to be from twenty to thirty miles distant, the nearest from ten to fifteen. The principal one is a large flat-topped hill oppo site the middle of the lake, but distant from it about twenty-five miles, and probably over one thousand feet high, other hills lying between it and the lake are much lower. Westward they diminish in size till they terminate in a low ridge running round the bay at the uppei- end of the lake. Along the northern side of the lake, coming from the west, a low ridge about one hundred and fifty feet high follows parallel with it for some distance and then dies away, and the country remains flat till the bay at the lower end of the lake is i-eachi d, where a rise in the land of about six hundred feet takes place, forming Rasp- berry Mountain, which runs round the eastern side of the bay and then stretches eastward. East of the lake, the land is a low marsh, covered with wild hay, along with alder and willow bushes, but separated from the lake by a bank of sand over thirty feet high, probably piled up by ice action. While waiting for a guide at the west end of the lake, I rode out about twenty-five miles in the direction of White-fish Lake, in order to obtain some idea of the character of the country bordering the lake on the north. For the fif'st ten miles after leaving the lake, near the mouth of Salt Creek, and proceeding in a north-easterly direction, by com- pass, the trail leads partly through open prairie and partly through aspen bush. The country is rolling, the hollows usually swampy, and the soil on the higher ground tolerably good, but from the .1 11'' NORTH-WEST TKRRITORT. 91 B trail lai'ge muskegs, wholly worthless, could be seen on either side. The trail appears to wind along a ridge and so to show more good land than would appear on a line drawn at random. For the next ten miles the country is much more wooded, the trees Grand Muskeg, consisting principally of aspens, with some spruce, and the proportion of swampy land being very evidently on the increase, until at about twenty miles it culminates in what is known as the Grand Muskeg, a belt of land ten to twelve miles wide and wholly occupied by. swamps. Into this we carefully picked our way about four miles and then re- turned. After passing through the Grand Muskeg, the country improves ^^'^«"8»'> somewhat, so I was informed, but still remains swampy till White-fish Lake is reached. This sheet of water isabov;t six miles long by three wide, and lies, according to one account, directly north of the west end of Lesser Slave Ijake, but according to another statement noi-th-east from that point. Ai'ound this lake there is a small area of good land and a little gardening is done. Taking this district as a whole, and judging both from what I Country north of Jjesser saw and from what I was told, the country north of Lesser Slave Lake, Slave Lake, with the exception of that around the upper end of it, is of very little value, large muskegs and swamps caused principally by beaver-dams and separated from one another by small aspen ridges, occupying nearly the whole of it. Merely to give some idea of its character I may say that the various fur traders took out of that country alone, over twelve thousand beaver skins in 1878. The climate at Lesser Slave Lake appears to compare favourably with ^''j.^"'.^ *"* that in other parts of the North-west. The snow-fall is not heavy, horses experiencing little difficulty in supporting themselves through the winter. Early frosts appear to give but little trouble here. In Mr. Young's garden the potato tops were quite green when I was there on the 15th of September, although previous to this they had been destroyed at Dunvegan, and when I arrived at Edmonton several days later, I found them cut down there also. Around the bay at the upper end of the lake, there are quite a number of small houses built by half-breeds, with little patches of ground fenced in, but not much gardening is done, as the people depend principally for their food on the wild fowl, which pass over the lake in immense flocks in the fall, and on the white flsh with which the lake abounds. From Lesser Slave Lake T had the choice of three routes by which Routes to Ed to reach Edmonton, viz. : To go by the old Hudson Bay Company's trail south of the lake, which was reported to be in a comparatively good condition owing to the dryness of the season ; to leave the animals at Lesser Slave Lake and go down by water ; or, as a third alternative, ! i' i monton. IF I' m I ^m. . j ,'■ 1 if II i . 92 b Geolodoal fea- tures. Trail to Fort Assineboine. OBOLOOIOAL StTRVET OP CANADA. Mr. Young pointed out that I might possibly be able, by waiting till the arrival of their boats, which they expected hourly, to got a guide to take mo along the north side of the lake, then down to Old Fort Assine- boine by a trail which had not been used for some years. As this latter plan held out the inducement of traversing new ground, I deter- mined to adopt it ; and on the guide coming in, two or three days later and reporting himself willing to accompany us, we set out at once. Leaving the Hudson Bay Company's post about noon on the 17th of September, on the 19th we arrived at the mouth of Lessor Slave River, travelling on the beach'nearly all the way, though sometimes in the bush, and occasionally in the lake itself, the great number of boulders on the beach causing travelling on it to bo very slow and toilsome. The country around Lesser Slave Lake presents very fow interesting geological features. Although slides of from ten to thirty feet high occur at intervals along the lake, at no point do they show any rock sections, consisting principally of hardened greyish clays, probably post-tertiary. In some places they are sandy. Stratified rock was observed at one point only, viz., just before entering the deep bay men- tioned as existing at the lower end of the lake, where a few small out- crops occur at the water level. Those consist of a very argillaceous limestone, which weathers yellow, and is nearly all concreted into round masses cemented together by peroxide of iron. Several of these masses were broken up for the purpose of seeing if they contained fossils, but the search was unsuccessful. The boulders which so thickly strew the beach along its entire course, consist mainly of gneiss and other Lau- rentian rocks, with, however, a considerable proportion of a whitish, moderately fine-grained sandstone, well rounded ; also some angulai- masses darker in colour and coarser in texture, and a considerable proportion of a light greyish saccharoidal limestone, which, like the sandstone, appeared to be unfossiliferous. A stream about thirty feet wide, which falls into the"lako near its lower end, brings down a con- siderable amount of a very fair kind of lignite, which from its rounded condition appears to have been brought from some distance. Leaving Lesser Slave Lake at its outlet, we set out in a southerly direction for Old Fort Assineboino, on the Athabasca. For a short distance from the lake, the ground is marshy, but gradually became firmer a,s we advanced, opening out into a beautiful prairie several miles in width, covered with a heavy growth of wild hay and pea-vine. About six miles from the lake, a range of hills, stretching eastward and westward, is reached. At the foot of this we crossed a stream about twenty-five feet wide, apparently descending from the hills, and emptying into Lesser Slave Lake. Ascending this range, it was found to be about eight hundred feet high, the ascent beir.g made in about N0BTH-WE8T TERRITORY. 93 B three miles. This range of hills is about fifteen miles in width, the Range of hilta. southern descent being extremely easy, and being of course less than the northern by the height of the plateau, which is about three hundred and fifty feet above the level of the lake. The summit is a complete network of aspen ridges, running in every direction, and separated by wide muskegs. Kight of those were crossed, the largest being over two miles in width. It was with the greatest difficulty that wo suc- ceeded in getting the mules across some of these swamps, even after their loads had been removed and packed across, either on the horses or by ourselves. This part of the country is of the most worthless descrip- tion, the very small amount of good land being separated by such wide stretches of bad, as to become valueless. At the highest point of this range that we reached, the barometer read 27-45, while at the level of the lake it read 28*2, thus indicating a difference of 735 feet. Descending from this point about four hundred feet, we reached and Broken coun- crossed a lai-ge spruce swamp, and then passed over another ridge about two hundred feet high, finding at the foot of it a large rapid stream about one hundred feet in width, called by the Indians Tow-i-now- sl-pi. After crossing this stream thecounti-y still continued for several miles much broken up by swamps and muskegs, until a low ridge run- ning east and west was reached, which marked the beginning of quite an extensive area of good land, through the centre of which flows a large stream about seventy-five feet wide, called A-kew-i-new-sl-pi. This is joined, about a iniTe below the point whore we crossed it, by a second stream about fifty feet wide, called We-men-sl-pi-sis, the united streams continuing to bear the name of the larger one. These streams pj^jjig region, run each in a beautiful valley about a mile in width, the country for several miles on either side being exceedingly fertile. Near the stream the country is almost entirely open, being merely dotted here and there with clumps of willow, but away from it it becomes densely wooded with a growth of small aspens. Through this sispen bush we travelled for about seven miles, a glimpse from a slight elevation revealing the same general character of country extending indefinitely eastward. Several barometer readings taken hero averaged 23"00, indicating a height of 1880 feet. About ton miles from the A-kew-i-new-si-pi the country again Bad country changed for the worse, and now became a mere succession of wide Athaba»«i. ^ muskegs. These seemed to increase in the direction of the Athabasca River, but to diminish somewhat to the west. This style of country continues till the valley of the Clearwater is reached, where we joined the HudHOQ Bay Company 'h trail which comes down south of the lake. 94 b GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. m Clearwater to Athabasca. Athabasca Valley. Athabasca to Paddlo River. Fine limber. Pembina River. J nne. Watershed and edge of prairie. This we then followed to Old Fort Assineboine and thence to Ed- monton. The Clearwater is a stream fifty feet wide by a foot deep flov»ing in a very fine valley about two miles wide. * v - ; .;: . 5 From the Clearwater to the Athabasca, a distance of about fourteen miles, the country consists entirely of sandy ridges and knolls covered with scrub pine, interspersed with numerous swamps, and without any value whatever. Indeed, from the outlet of Lesser Slave Lake to Old Fort Assineboino on the Athabasca, a distance of about sixty miles, the amount of land passed over fit for agricultural purposes is very in- considerable, consisting probably of less than one-third of the total area. Between Clearwater and the Athabasca, three small streams were crossed, each from thirty to forty feet wide, and flowing into the Athabasca, The Athabasca, where we crossed it, has a valley about four hundred feet deep and about two miles wide, and is itself about two hundred and fifty yards aci-oss. For several miles after crossing it, the country, though a great im- provement on that north of the river, is yet far from good, the soil being a light coloured gravelly silt, with a very thin covering of mould, and broken up by numerous swamps and marshes. About seven miles from the river, however, it improves considerably and becomes fit for settlement, and continues good all the rest of the way in to Edmon- ton. About twenty-five miles from the Athabasca, Paddle River was crossed, a stream about 100 feet wide by two feet deep, with a bed filled with Laurentian boulders. This stream is a tributary of the Pembina. Between Paddlo Eiver and the Athabasca the greater part of the country is very heavily timbered, principally with spruce, aspen and Cottonwood, all very large, some of the spruce being over three feet in diameter. The proximity of this timber to the splendid prairie lands around Edmonton must render it in time very valuable. After crossing Paddle River, a ride of eight miles over a beautiful prairie country brings us to the Pembina, a stream about 100 yards wide in low water, with an average depth of about two feet. Its fiood banks are about 150 yards apart, and ten to fifteen feet in height, and consist princi- pally of clay The river bed, where we crossed it, is composed of a fine sand. After crossing the Pembina the country is somewhat hilly, but gradually becomes less so till Lac la Nonne is readied, where it is only slightly rolling. The country around this lake is very fertile, though but little farming is done as yet. After leaving Lac la Nonne, the trail for several miles again passes through a thick bush, but the trees are very small and valueless, except for fencing or firewood. Passing through this, we soon cross the watershed between the Athabasca and ffi ti I N0RTH-WB8T TERRITORY. 95 b Bd- praino After the Saskatchewan, and almost simultaneously reach the southern -^ limit of the true forest and emerge on the open prairie. From this point on to Edmonton, the country is of the most fertile description, being a beautiful, slightly undulating prairie, almost destitute of trees, with numerous smull lakelets in the depressions, and watered by several small streams of good waver. Description of the Atliabasca from the ^Landing ' to Riviere la Biche, and of t/ie country thence to Victoria on the Saskatchewan. While waiting at Athabasca Landing I made several attempts to Country near A.th&'D&>80fli explore the country to the east and west of that place, but with very Landing, little success. Owing to the character of the country it was utterly impossible to take animals through it, but on foot, I succeeded in pene- trating it for a distance of several miles on either side of the trail. As far as I went I found the laud to be almost entirely worthless. Where not occupied by muskegs, the soil consists of a light coloured mixture of sand and clay, covered with a thin layer of black mould of a inferior kind ; and according to the account of a half-breed tra(ior whom I met at the Landing, this description might apply to the whole country lying between the trail and Rivi«^re and Lac la Biche, excepting only the land in the immediate vicinity of the lake itself In this opin- ion, judging from the parts of it which I examined, I fully concur. Leaving the Landing about mid-day on the 15th of October, in a birch |^*^?|j*''* bark canoe, with a single half-breed, I came to the mouth of Riviere La Biche about ten o'clock the next morning, having travelled about seven and a half hours. Assuming our rate at five miles an hour, I judged that wo had come about thirty-seven miles. Not seeing any appcai-ance of Calling River, which was reported to calling River, fall into the Athabasca nearly o])posite, 1 decided to go still further down the river to look for it, but after paddling down about six miles further, we returned, not having seen the river, but having ascertained that it was too far removed from Riviere La Biche to be of service in crossing the Athabasca with a railway line at this point. From the Landing to Riviere La Biche, the river runs in a general ... . north-ejvsterly direction. It is at first somewhat tortuous, with riffles at [''"'" f'"n^'h'^ intervals, but about ten miles from the Landing it widens out con- siderably, has a gentler current, and shows straight rejujhes of several miles in length. Approaf Zyinout)! and KitHalM. i ■ i I twoon tho Zymootr, and tho Slp-ki-ftw m nlso granitic and that rocks of thJH kind horo form an important miWH. On tho oaHt bank of tho Zymootz, Homo miloH from tho Skecna, Mr. H. J. Cambio roportH tho oxiHtonco of a maHHivo bod of limoHtono, dip- ping about north magnetic, at an angle of 30". Mr. Cambie also in- forniH mo tliat tho Htonow in tho Zymootz are gonerally porj)hyritic, proving tho oxtonHion of the porphyrito foi-mation in that direction. About KitHahiH Cafion, tl»o rocks scon in tho mountain hidos appear to belong entirely to the so-called ])orphyrito serioH. In tho cnHon they are found to be very compact in texture, but much fractured by joint- age planes, and otherwise disturbed. They are hard, greenish fols- pathic materials, occasionally more or . ^os p(>rphyritic in texture, with little epidotic kernels and veins. No bedding could be made out, but they are occasionally traversed by small granitic dykes. About one mile above the cafion, on the right bank, rocks probably of this series, are seen in massive beds in the top of a mountain, dipping about north magnetic at an angle of thirty degrees, For about five miles above tho cafion, the rocks, examined in a few places, appear to be chiefly hard greyish argillites and sandstones or quartzites. These are then followed by a second mass of granite of some importance, which has all the appearance of being intrusive and is much jointed. The material of the bars and banks of the river, and that in the bods of small streams joining it, probably gives a better general representa- tion of the lithological character of the rocks of this partof its course, than the few exposures which occur along the banks. At this point, the gravel consists chiefly of felspathic rocks, purplish, greyish, green- ish, or bluish. These are sometimes brecciated, and the breccias occa- sionally pass into water-formed conglomerates, with well-.-ounded fragments, the finer materials graduating into ordinary quartzites, MesoBoio fosiiu sandstones and argillites by intermediate varieties. Fossils were found in some abundance in a bluish felspathic rock, resembl'"^^ hat described in a former report* as carrying fossils on the Iltasyouco. They include Belemnites, a Trigonia, with other molluscs and a branch- ing coral. Sondstonei and From this point to the Forks, about forty miles lollowing the course of the river, hard sandstones and argillites, often well-bedded, are the prevailing rocks. At Kwatsalix Oanon, these rocks occur in thin regular beds, resembling those of the Nechacco group of the Re- port of 18'7G-77. For some miles above Kwatsalix a range of hills fol- lows the right bank of the river, forming in some places a rampart- like escarpment, which is composed of beds of the kind just men- * Report of Progress Qeol. Survey of Canada, 1876-77. Material of river Kravel argillites. BRtTISII COLUMBIA AMD NORTH-WEST TEaRITORY. 103 b tionod, dipping nway from tho wator. Noar KitHOguocla, tho rooks chani^e aomowluit in cliaractor. Tho Handstonos aro not highly in- duratod nn btilbro, but i-athor Hoft, and usHOciatod with carltonaeoouH Mhalefl, which occur at ditlbront Hta^es in tho formation, and are Homo- timoH ton or moro foot in thicknoHH. At a littio distance thoHo quite resemble coal seams, and on closer examination aro in fact found to in- clude films and small lumps of a material which, though very im- pure and jishy, may be called true coal. Ironstone in rodules and impure coal aheots occurs in abundance in some ])art8 of the formation, and ob- scure plant impressions were observed in tho sandstones. Tho rocks have been irregularly deposited in many instances, the carbonaceous shaltH in particular showing a tendency to lenticular forms. The whole series of rocks has since boon violently flexed, crushed and disturl)ed, so much so that oven if coal seams of good quality occurred, they would scarcely under any circumstances, Be workable in this particu- lar spot. About two miles above Kitsoguecla, a well marked anticlinal ADtioiinal. axis crossjs the river, a bod of conglomerate participating in the flex- ure. At I short distance further up the list rock between Kitso- guecla and the Forks is seen. The widih of that portion of the bolt of Mesozoic rocks crossed be- {loJJg™/ Meso- tween theirfirst appearance on the Skeena and the Forks, is about ^'j^'^J"^'^''*"'^ fifty-seven nilos. They lie in a series of folds, of which the axes hold general nortl-westerly and south-easterly bearings. The angles of dip are often hijh, and the degree of disturbance implied considerable, the flexures b«ing doubtless very ranch moro numerous and compli- cated than thediagramatic section would indicate. It will have been observed that while porphyrite, and other folspathic and often brecci- ated rocks pre\uil toward the western margin of the I'egion, compara- tively soft sancstone, ai'gillites and carbonaceous argillites, character- ize the eastern, .he intervening region showing rocks more or less in- termediate in litiological character and degree of induration. To what extent this chan^ may show a true difference in tho character of tho formation from vest to east, and in how far it may be accounted for on the suppositioi that older bods, generally characterized by the abun- dance of volcanic naterials, are represented to the west, it is impos- sible, with the limted knowledge yet obtained of these rocks, definitely to state. It is suppsed, however, that the latter circumstance actually occurs, though the Irst mentioned may also have added to the appear- ance of difference nov found. Mocks of Babine Portage. In proceeding easward from the Forks to the northern end of Babine Lake, across \he intervening mountain region, similar rocks 104 B GBOLOQICAL SURVEV OP CANADA. I I i| Impure coal. I U Rocks of Ba- continiio to prevail. SandstonoB are most abundantly represented, but tains. ° "" contain in some places carbonaceous shales, and towards the summit of the pass become associated with rocks of volcanic origin like those before described. These occasionally seem to form fully one half the thickness of the beds represented. In one place five miles up the Sus-kwa Eiver, a few impressions of leaves were found. Some of these appear to be coniferous. There is one narrow angiospormous leaf and several grass-like blades. Not far from the summit, numerous frag- ments of silicified wood were obtained, with a few specimens of a mollusc, which, according to Mr. Whlteaves who has examined the specimens, is a Thracia of the section Corimya. The species is probably undescribed, but it is identical with one from the coal-bearing rocks of the Queen Charlotte Islands. The strike of the rocks throughout this region, is generally nearly true north and south, but sQbject to great local irregularity. In the bed of the Tzes-a-tza-kvva Eiver, near the point at which the trail from the Forks reaches BabineLake, fragments resembling coal w«re found, but contain too much earthy matter to be useful as a fuel. From the appearance of the mountains visible from different points in this region, Mesofoio rooks it Seems probable that Mesozoic rocks of the kind describe*, are very widely spread in this part of the province, a belief conirmed by a number of small specir^ens collected by Mr. Hoi'etzky to the north, during the expedition of 1879. The hills behind the Hudion Bay post at the north end of Babine Lake, on its west side, are composed of moderately indurated sandstones with fine-grained longlomerates striking N. 43° E., with a north-westerly dip at higl angles. The rocks of the Mesozoic series may extend considerably farther in this direction, but were not traced. The total width of the belt of Cretaceous rocks crosied on this line, which cuts the 55th parallel at a small angle, is litle short of one hundred miles. i wide-spread. General Remarks on the Cretaceous Rock. Horizon. Coal-bearing character. Precisely what horizon these rocks represent, it is at present impos- sible to determine, or as yet to enter into any details as to their arrangement or thickness. From their relation t) the Porphyrite series, and the occurrence of the Thracia above refa'red to, it appears, however, that they mu^t represent, at least in pat, the coal-bearing series of the Queen Charlotte Islands, while thej may even extend upward tc include rocks of the hoiizion of those of (oraox and Nanaimo. The existence of rocks of this age is not lecessarily, in itself, to be regarded as establishing a probability of tie occurrence of coal seams of economic value j but the general disemiuation over the BRITISH COLUMBIA AND NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 105 b district of carbonaceous shales containing impure coal, points to the occurrence of conditions such as those required for the deposition of true coals, and indicates the possibility, if not the probability, of the occurrence of coal beds of a workable character in some part of the region. Mr. Horetzky collected specimens of the coaly materials found in g,'/,"g|,"^"^, these rocks on the Skeena, at two localities above the Porks. These Mr. lloretzky. were examined by Mr. 0. Hoffmann in the laboratory of the Survey, and their analyses published in the preliminary report on this region, which forms Appendix No. 7 of the Canadian Pacific Railway Eeport of 1879. They have since appeared in Mr. Hoffmann's portion of the Report of the Geological Survey for 1878-79, pp. 12 H. and 1?. H., and need not therefore be repeated in this place. The specimens collected by Mr. Horetzky precisely resemble those found at Kitseguecla, below the Forks, but these from the last mentioned place have not been quanti- tatively examined. They are carbonaceous shales or very impure bituminous coals, containing 1-05 and r52 respectively of hygroscopic water and 40-90 and 45-24 of ash. They afford no colour to a boiling solution of caustic potash, and cannot be called lignites. In addition to these, I received from Mr. Hankin, when at the Forks ^^^^ f^^^^^ of the Skeena, a small specimen of true coal, apparently of excellent ^*''*"''"'*- quality. This material came from a point on the Watsonkwa River, about eighteen miles from the Forks, and is reported by the Indians to occur in quantity. I was unable to visit the locality, but it lies nearly on the strike of the carbonaceous beds seen near the mouth of the Kitseguecla, on the Skeena, and may therefore occur in a horizon nearly the same. Arrangements were made to procure a larger specimen, but this has not yet arrived. Mr. Hoffmann has examined a fragment of this coal, with the following Analysis, result : Volatile matter 40-52 Fixed carbon 57-51 Ash 197 100-00 A determination of the water gave 0-85 per cent., as however, owing to lack of material, no control was made, the amount of this constituent is included in the figure rejjresenting volatile matter. Rapid heating gave a firm coke. The ash, which was somewhat bulky, had a light reddish-brown colour and agglutinated slightly at a bright red heat. This is an excellent fuel and closely resembles a coal of the true coal measures.* * For details aa to physical character of this speoimen, see the report above referred to. ■ill 106 b GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. In the present isolated position of the northern interior of British Columbia, the possible existence of workable deposits of coal, is a matter of indiffei'ence; but in the event of the opening of any route through it, it would be exceedingly desirable to have all parts of the extensive Mesozoic area subjected to a geological examination as close as possible. Rocks of Bahine and Stuart Lakes. A rapid travei'se in canoe and boat of these lakes, did not allow much information as to the rocks surroimding them to be obtained, but it is probable that no very important gap in the section results, as the line nearly follows that of the general strike of the beds. The Creta- ceous rocks like those previously described, continue, apparently, for Babine Lake, somc distance down Babine Lake, but exposures are few. At twenty- five miles from the upper end of the lake, on the west side, .1 basaltic amygdaloid, evidently of Tertiary volcanic age occurs, and on the opposite side of the lake, near the knee or bend, basaltic rocks form a rather fine display of inclined columns about eighty feet high. At eleven or twelve miles from the upper end of the lake, on the north side, rocks which are doubtless Palteozoic in age, and probably repre- sent a portion of Cache Creek group* appear. They consist of white limestone or marble in thin beds, with greenish schists, hornblendic or occasionally micaceous, and quartzite. These rocks probably also occupy a considerable stretch of the south shore. Eastward they are succeeded by granite, which is in turn followed by basaltic and other Tertiary volcanic rocks, which appear to form a synclinal running north-west- ward across the extremity of the lake, and compose the conspicuous mountain at its south-eastern angle. Portage. The trail between Babine and Stuart Lakes, probably leads for some miles over Tertiary volcanic rocks, which are then succeeded by granite, geuei-ally grey and hornblendic. The rocks at the Stuart Lake end of the portage are all of this character. The small island at the Yi-ko River is of similar material, with a lamination nearly vertical and running N. 30°\V. The mode of occurrence of the granitic and Ter- tiary volcanic rocks here, resembles that described in a previous re- port as existing at the east end of Eraser Lake. Stuart Lake. In travelling down Stuart Lake, the granites are soon replaced by schistose rocks, which are when first seen greyish in colour, and pro- bably for the most part argillite or quartzite. At a small island on which we landed, about half way down the lake, the rock was found to be a grey glossy schist, probably referable to the Cache Creek group *See Reports uf Prugresa 1871-72 p. 61, 1877-78 pp. 169 B. 173 B. BRITISH COLUMBIA AND NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 107 B British natter igh it, ;ennivo )se as r much , but it as the Creta- Uy, for Lwenty- it side, 11-8, and ic rocks at high, le north y repre- )f white endic or ^occupy icceeded Tertiary •th-west- ■ipicuous or some granite, :e end of le Yi-ko ical and !U\d Ter- svious I'e- iiced by and pro- sland on found to ek group of former reports. The massive limestones of the north-east side of the lake were first cleai'ly seen in the range of hills north of the Pin-che carboniferous Eiver. These limestones have been described by Mr. Selwyn and '°'**'""®^- myself in previous reports, and by the discovery of FmuUnce in thorn during the exploration of IS'TO, have been shown to be of Carbonifer- ous age. They are the northward continuation of the typical Cache Creek limestones of the pi'ovisional classification of the repoi't for 1871-72. Stuart Lake to McLeod's Lake. For the region on the lino of trail from Fort St. James, on Stuart RegioiKfener- Lake, to Fort McLeod, little information exists, for, as elsewhere noted, o„v^ered. the drift covering is deep. The nearly parallel section on the Lower Nech.ifco, about fifty miles further south, is described in the Report of Progress for 1876-77. The Palaeozoic rooks of the Cache Creek series are there found to be succeeded to tho eastward by a broad belt of Mesozoic and probably Cretaceous rocks, which were designated as the Nechacco series. These are covered to the eastward by accumulations of Tertiary ago. The strike of the Cache Creek and Nechacco rocks would carry them across the line of section now described, and the existence of rocks belonging to both these series appears to be proved by the abundant occurrence of fragments referable to both groups in the drift. It is probable that no very extensive spread of Tertiary rocks stretches so far north from the Nechacco, but Tertiary stones are also found in tho drift, ind about a mile and half east of Carrier Lake, an amygdaloidal basalt with small white crystals of chabazite was seen in place, proving that jmtchos at least of the volcanic portion of the Tertiary occur. A small exposure of hard rusty shales and sandstones of indeterminate character, is seen where the trail first reaches the Salmon River from the west. North-oast of Carp Lake, is an isolated oi'omiioII foiiiui u fow TomhIIh which appom- to bo ideiiticul with thoso chanu'tofizin^ tlio ' Lowor SaiulMtonoH ' of tho Lowor Forks of Pino Rivor. On tlio.so HpCfimoiis Mr. J. V. VVhitoavorf furnirthcH tho tbliowiiig nolo : — 1. Cijrena — Casts of a Ci/rena, witli oiitliiio viu-y liko that of C. ( Fi;/- Cretiwoom orittna) JJiirkeeiot' Mook, from tho •' Hoar llivcr Sorios " of Wyoming and Utah. 2. Corlmla — Cast of tho loft valvo of a hirgo Corbuhi, appai-ontly closoly aliiod to tlio smooth varioty of C ;>y;v/o;7n/«, Mcok, from the Boar Rivor Scrios of Sulphur Crook, noar IJoar liivor, Utah, but broad- er postoriorly and __vvith tlio boaks pointin^^ distint-tly forwards. Tho same spocios was colloctod by Mr. Solwyn at JMno Rivor Forks, in 1875. In Mio saino yoar Mr. Solwyn oolloctod at Diinvogan, and on tho L'oaio liivor, 3(J milos from l)unvo;fan, Hpocimons of a iVij^rra-liko Corbula, which can scurooly bo distinyuisiiod fi'om tho ribbod varioty o( G. pi/ri/ormis, but in tbcso sliolls tho posterior end is elongated and narrowly attenuated and the beaks point decidedly backwards. 3. Pterin — (*ast of the left valve of a small Pterin. Mueli too im- perfect for identification, but apparently rathor liko P Nebnucnna oi' Evans and Shiimard. 4. Ostrm — Detached valves of a small species. At a point somewhat further up tho river, impressions of a largo Inocvrnmus wore observed, but it was found impossible to procure specimens. These rocks of ITppcr Pine 'Rivoi' appear to me lo represent those Subdivision of described by Mr. Solwyn on the coricsponding portion of the Peace nus. Rivor above tho Cafion of tho Mountain of Hocks. From a study of Mr. Solwyn's section on tho Peace Rivor, in conjunction with the addi- tional information now obtained, and more particularly in the light of tlie fine sections on tho Smoky liiver, J believe that the rocks under- lying tho portion of the Peace Rivor country embraced in tho present report may bo subdivided as follows, in descending order: — 1. Upper sandstones and shales with lignite coals, apiti liiver Sandstones.) 2. Uppei' dark shales. (Smoky Rivor Shales.) 3. Lower sandstones and shales with lignite and true coals. (Dunvegan Sandstones.) 4. Lower dark shales. (Port St. John Shales.) For the region lying to tho east of the point now attained in the course of the description, it will bo more convenient to treat of the places characterized by each subdivision together. . I. u^i : 1 i.' i li iiower Shales. Exposures on the Peace River. Fossils. Lower Sand- stones. 116 b OaOLOGICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. Lower Shales. — Thin Hubdivision, according to Mr. Selwyn's notes, appears to occupy the Upper Peace valley for a length of nearly fifty milcH, extending from a point about h\x miles below Hudson's Hope to a short distance below the mouth of Pine Rivor North. The i-ocks are described* as " dark earthy shales, in parts characterized by numerous bands and soptarian nodules of clay ironstone, many of which enclose largo ammonites, and they are also associated with sandy calcareous layers holding other Cretaceous fossils, among which a species of Inoceramus is tolerably abundant, while in the dark argillaceous shales scales of fishes are frequently observed." In a section about a mile below Fort St. John, these rocks have a thickness exceeding 600 feet. The area occupied by the lower shales is not wide, however, as the overlying sandstones are found in the higher ground at no great dis- tance back from the rivor valley. At the point above mentioned, in descending the Peace Rivor, they are overlain by the sandstones of the next succeeding subdivision, and do not again appear till at about five miles below the mouth of the Rivi«^re Bruld, or twenty-five miles above the confluence of the Peace and Smoky Rivers. They ext,end for about the same distance up the Smoky River, till the light southerly dip of the bods brings the overlying subdivision down to the water level. On Peace Rivei*, below the mouth of the Smoky, these beds are followed by sandstones which at some distance down the stream form rampart-liko cliffs. Those have not, however, been geologically exam- ined, and it is not known whether thoy aio a return of the Lower Sandstones, or a yet older series underlying the Lower Shales. The small exposure of shales probably I'epresenting this subdivision on the Upper Pino River, has already been alluded to. The fossils obtained by Mr. Selwyn from those rocks near Fort St. J )hn, include numerous crushed specimens of a large Ammonite, resem- bling, according to Mr. Whitoavcs, Prionocydus Woolgari, but a new species. The Inoceramus may not improbably be /. problematicus, and a Pteria specifically the same with one from the locality on Upper Pine River described on p. 1 15 b. Tlie Lower Sandstones and Shales, constituting the next subdivision, appear to be much more widely spread. It is probable that a consider- able part of the sandstones of the Upper Pino Rivor may belong to this subdivision. It is well characterized, however, about the canon and at the Lower Forks of Pino River, and seems from the informa- tion at present available, to occupy the valley of Peace River for a distance of about one hundred miles, between the mouth of Pine River North, and the point below the mouth of the Riviere Brule indicated in • Report of Progress Gool. Survey of Canada, 1875-76, p. 72. BRITISH COLUMBIA AND NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 117 b notes, ly fifty lope to cks are morous enclose caroous Dcios of 8 shales t a mile 500 feet. •, as the roat dis- onod, in 38 of the 30ut five miles y extend outhorly ho water bods are am form ly oxam- e Lower I. bdivision Fort St. te, resem- at a new us, and a iper Pino xlivision, consider- lelong to ho canon ) informa- ivor for a ino Kiver licated in a preceding paragraph. It also crosses the Smoky River with a width in the bottom of the valley of nine miles, and may further, I believe, be regarded as probably including the sandstones of the Canon of the Mountain of Eocks above Hudson's Hope. In the Pine liiver (Janon, the i-ocks of this subdivision are flaggy p?P°U*T«y" sandstones, often brownish-grey in ecdor and false-bedded or ripple- Canon, marked, greenish-grey fine-grained sandstones and black soft argil- laceous sandstones and shales holding plant impressions, also occur. In the vallc}' of a small stream which cuts the bank on the south side of the cafion, not far above the river level, Mr. Si'lwyn, in 1875, found, in alternating strata of sandstones and shales, four thin seams of coal, which in descending order are — six inches, eight inches, two feet, and coal seams, eight inches thick. A number of fossils were also found in the associ- ated beds, consisting of leaf-impressions and shells. " The former occur chiefly in beds below the coal seams, and the latter in the intervening sandy shales, and in the ferruginous and calcareous concretionaiy nodules which accompany the latter." These coal seams and tlv- associ- ated beds are at least 1700 feet below the sandstones of the summit of Table Mountain, and as the beds are nearly horizontal, this diflerence in elevation must closely correspond with the actual thickness of the rocks. For a portion of the ascent of Table Mountain, however, the rocks are not seen, though about 200 feet thick- of sandstone caps the TableMountain hill. It is therefore uncertain whether the subdivision classed as the Upper Shales may occur in the concealed interval and the sandstones at the summit represent the Upper Sandstone series, or whether, — as is perhaps more probable, — the entire thickness of the rocks from the edge of Pine River to the summit of Table Mountain, should be classed as » belonging to the Lower Sandstones, which in this case must here have a very great thickness. In the sandstones of the summit of the moun- tain numerous specimens of Inoceramtis altiis, a species previously noted in beds supposed to represent the Pierre group in Wyoming, were found by Mr. SelWyn. The fuel occuring in the above-described section scarcely differs from true bituminous coal, containing, according to an analysis by Mr. Hott'mann but 2*45 per cent, of water, and yielding a hard coke. The fossil plants and molluscs, obtained from the beds in the vicinity of the Lower Forks of Pine River, are reviewed on a succeeding page. On the lower part of Coal Brook, which flows into the East Branch Coal Brook. of Pine River, extensive exposures of the Lower Sandstones occur. Coal was discovered here by Mr. J. Hunter in 1877, and is mentioned by him in the Canadian Pacific Railway Report of 1878 (p. 79). Mr. Hunter favoured mo with specimens collected by him at the time, and I have since personally examined the locality. The coal occurs in several > (LWf ' « * I Si I I I i!' 1^ 118 b Coal seams. Ironstone. Exposures on Peace Kiver. Exposures on Smoky River. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. beds and appears to be of good quality, but so far as observed all are very thin, the thickest measuring about six inches. The coal resembles that above mentioned, but contains 7*83 of water and less ash, and does not yield a coherent coke. Coal also occui-s on the east branch of Pine River above the mouth of Coal Creek, and there is much ground to hope for the discovery of coal seams of woi-kable thickness in this region. The rocks associated with the coals are sandstones and sandy shales, generally grey, but becoming blackish where most argillaceous. The series is usually very regularly bedded, though many of the sandstones show current structure, and thei-e are occasional marked local depar- tures from horizon tality. The beds also include ironstone, which in some places is quite abundant, forming nodular sheets. Ironstone also occurs in this manner in some of the rocks of the same subdivision seen about the Forks of Pine Eiver. On Peace Eiver, the rocks of this subdivision are supposed, as above noted, to form the banks for a long distance. Thoy are described as consisting of similar alternating sandstones and shales, the former often worn out by the weather into fantastic shapes, the latter generally markedly arenaceous in character. In the bare hill behind Dunvegan, a thickness of about 400 feet of these beds is shown, consisting of brown and grey sandstones and sandy shales, which hold numerous fossils. The beds appear to be horizontal or nearly so throughout. On the Riviere Brul^, near its mouth, about fourteen miles from Dunvegan, Mr. McConnell examined a reported coal seam, which proved to be a lignite coal of inferior quality, and about twelve inches onl}' in thickness. Coal or lignite is also reported to occur on Rat River ten or fifteen miles from Dunvegan, but the locality was not visited. Thin irregular seams of poor lignite were noticed in baidvs a few miles below Dunvegan on the same side of the river. On Smoky River the Lower Shales appeal' (o blend at their summit with the subdivision now under consideration, which is shaly at the base, but in the main represented by sandstones, generally yellowish and soft, but often nodularly hardened. The nodules oi- concretions are frequently masses exceeding six feet in diameter, which as they weather from the bed fall into the river, and considerably impede its course. The highest bed of the I ower Sandstones is found at a sharp bend of the river, with a rapid, three miles north of the Little Smoky. It is a massive soft grey sandstone, with abundant fragments of ])lants, often root-like, and in one place distinctly rejircsonting the base and roots of a tree, and evidencing a terrestrial surface. Overlying this is a thin carbonaceous film, which at a short distance fui-ther up the river becomes a seam of lignite coal two and a half inches in thickness. T T ^iS'I BRITISH COLOMBIA AND NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. Il9 B This, according to an analysis by Mr. Hoffmann, contains 11-52 per cent, of water. It 'S interesting to find the coal-bearing character of this part of the formation maintained, though by a seam so inconsider- able, so far to the eastwa The beds seen in the Caii..n of the Mountain of Rocks, are 8and>B»n Note on fossil Blants by J. W. awson. 120 b GEOLOaiCAL SURVEY OP CANADA. also found loose in Muddy Creek near Dunvegan, and at a point thirty-six miles above Dunvegan, on the Pine Eiver, an assemblage of forms like those of Dunvegan is again found, but with tlie addition of a shell like a Mactra or Tellina. No molluscan fossils or determinable remains of plants were found in the Lower Sandstones on the Smoky Eiver. The fossils before alluded to, obtained in loose stones in the Rivi«ire Bruld, or Burnt River, b}' Mr. McConneli, though very like some Lara- mie forms, may be of the same age as those above described. They in- clude, according to Mr. Whiteaves, the following forms: Unio nov. sp ?. Corbula pyriformis f Mock, Corhula Engelmanni ? Moek, a Vivi- ^ara, like V. Cowmrfi, M. & II., a Lioplax (or Cassiopella) like L. sm6- tortuosa, M. & H., sp., a species of Goniobasis, very like the smooth- shelled variety of G. Simpsoni Meek. The plant remains from the lower shales are from the Pine River Canon, the Forks of Pine River, and lower part of Coal Brook, places included in a district not over eight miles in diameter, and may be treated together, though the sepai-ate localities are indicated in connec- tion with the species mentioned. The following preliminary note on these plants has been kindly furnished by Principal J. \V. Dawson : — Note on Cretaceous Fossil Plants from the Peace Eiver Country. The plants referred to below are of much interest, as representing in a northern locality a flora akin to that of the Dakota Group of the United States geologists, which may be regarded as Lower Creta- ceous or at least as belonging to the lower part of the Middle Creta- ceous, and is the oldest in which broad-leaved Kxogens of similar types to those now existing predominate. It will, however, be seen, from the table (p. 128) that these plants occur in beds believed to be somewhat higher in the series, or nearly on the horizon of the Niobrara group. They will thus supply an interesting link in the history of the American Cretaceous. The present note is intended mei'ely as a preliminary to a more full description. 1. Cycadites. — The collection contains several leaves of this genus, all belonging to one species, and of tlie type of the modern Cycas revohita, though of small size, the largest having been loss than a foot in length. This species is closely allied to leaves of this geims found in the Ci'etaceous of Europe, but is probably new ; and will be described under the name of C. Unjiga, from the Indian name of the Peace River. The specimens of this species are chiefly from Pine River Forks. One fragment occurs in the collection from Table Mountain, apparently BRITISH COLUMBIA AND NORTB-WfiS* TERRITORY. 121 B full Cycas ;i foot i'ound jcribed Iliver. One rently From the reddish sandntoiios near the top, which contain TnocerO' mus alius, and a well preserved leaf was obtained by Mr. Selwyn from a loose slab on that part of the Peace Eiver occupied b}^ the Lower Sandstones twenty-tive miles above Dunvegan. 2. CarpoUthes. — One specimen represents a remarkable fruit which is either a nut of three centimeters in diameter, surrounded with a dense mass of radiating laminar fibres, five centimetres long, or is a rounded rhachis bearing very long fruit scales. The central mass is carbonaceous, and shining, with spiral pits marking the attachment of these surrounding organs. These are apparently flat, three millimetres wide, with a central smooth band, and scolloped or toothed edges. I can only conjecture that it may be a peculiar globular mass of fructifi- cation, possibly of some cyca^laceous plant, but of course not probably belonging to that which bore the leaves above mentioned. From the Forks of Pine llivcr. 3. Magnolia. — Of this genus there are two well-marked kinds of leaves. One of them is closely allied to M. tenuifoUa of Lesquereux, but more acute at the point. The other is a larger leaf, seventeen centimetres in length and six broml, and remarkable for narrowing in a uniform manner from the middle to the base and apex. Both species are from Coal Bi-ook. 4. Carya. — Leaflets of apparently a verj' large hickory leaf, with the nervation of this genus, but with entire edges. These specimens are from Coal Brook. 5. Protophyllum. — Of this genus, quite characteristic of the Dakota Cretaceous, but of somewhat uncertain affinities, there are two species, one of them allied to P. rugoswn of Lesquereux, the other quite dis- tinct, but resembling an unnamed species from the Dakota group of Ellsworth, Colorado, now in the collection of the McGill University. The specimens of both these s])ecies are from Coal Brook, where they are to be found scattered over large slabs in a fine state of preservation, but difficult to break out without proper tools. G. Menispennites ? — A very broad leaf, ten centimetres wide and seven long, coitlate at base and with waved margins and seven nerves. Coal Brook. 7. Salix. — A long narrow-leaved species, like 8. flexuosa, Newberry, or S. prota'foUa, Lesq. Coal Brook. 8. Laurophyllmn. — Resembles Lesquereux's JJ. reticulatum, a very charactei'istic Dakota species. Pine River Forks. 9. Diospyros. — Group of loaves, scarcely, if at all, distinguishable from D. anceps, Lesq. Pine River Forks and Caiion. 10. Glyptostrobua graciUimus, Lesq. — This very characteristic plant, whatever its true affinities, is represented by a number of branchlets, il Estuarine and fresh-water molluscs. Upper Shales un Coal Brook. 122 B QBOLOaiCAL SURVEY OP CANADA. most of them obscure, but some quite distinct. Specimens from the Forks of Pine River. 11. Sequoia. — A few branchlets of the type of S. Langsdorffii. From the Forks of Pine River. 12. Splienopteris. — A delicate fern, referable to this genus provision- ally, till its fructification can be found. From the Forks of Pine Eiver. The above accord with the stratigraphical position assigned to the beds, namely below the horizon of the Fort Pierre Cretaceous. It is a distinct flora from that of the Cretaceous coal-measures of Vancouver Island, or tluit of the Laramie or Lignite Tertiary of the plains. It is older than either, and very nearly akin to that of the Dakota group, as illustrated in Lesqueroux's Memoir in the Reports of the United States Geological Survey of the Territories, and Newberi-y's " Illustra- tions" in the same reports. The presence of remains of a Cycadites in a noteworthy feature, especially Avhen we consider the northern latitude of the locality, and serves as a link of connection with the Lower Cretaceous and Jui-assic floras. These Cycadaceous remains are, however, quite distinct from those from the Ijower Cretaceous of the Queen Charlotte Islands, col- lected by Mr. Richardson and described by me in the Report of the Geo- logical Survey of Canada for IS'TS. The Lower Sandstones evidence estuarine, fresh-water and teri-estrial conditions tbi'oughout, and the molluscs show a mingling of distinc- tively Cretaceous forms, with fi-esh-water types, the closest analogy of which is with those of tiie Laramie Group. Though some doubt may obtain as to the stratigraphical position of the fossils found loose in Riviere Bruld, which may possibly represent an outlier of Laramie, this need not be allowed to influence our conclusions with regard to the others. The molluscs and plants of Pine River Canon lie together beneath at least 1700 feet of strata, the uppermost beds of which hold Inoceramus alius ; and judging from the general persistency in type of land and fi-esh-water molluscs it will be by no means surprising if, when moi'c points of comparison are available, the earlier Cretaceous and Laramie faunas are proved to resemble each other very closely. The Upper Shales, constituting the next overlying subdivision, were well seen only on Coal Brook and on the Smoky River. On the first- named stream, five miles east of the Lower Forks of Pine Rivei', the Lower Sandstones are succeeded by dark grey or bluish-black thin betlded shales, of which at least 200 feet in thickness is exposed in ascending the brook to the point at which the valley becomes shallow and drift deposits conceal the underlying rocks. At their base the Upper Shales blend to some extent with the underlying sandstone forma- qi h( fiRITISH COLUMBIA AND NORTH-WEST TERRITORf. 123 B tion, and near the line of junction were found a few marine shells, among which is a small Ostrea. The Upper Shales cn)ss the Smoky Kiver with a width of ahout On Smoky thirty-six miles. The rocks are here greyish and bluish to nearly black shales, and hold abundance of ironstone, and in some places large forr()-calcarcf)us scptai-ian nodules, in one locality a layer of nearly pure ironstone throe to four icet thick was noticed, which further down the river became a ferruginous sandstone, but maintained its place and thickness with gi-eat regularity for miles, and enabled the fact of the low southward dip of the rocks to be ascertained, by rising in the bank faster than the bed of the river could be supposed to * slope down. A specimen of ironstone from this part of the Smoky Rivei- has been Ironstone, found by Mr. Hoffmatm to contain 30'98 per cent, of metallic iron, with 15-94 of insoluble matter. Near the base of the subdivision occurs a considerable thickness of Bocannes. very dark shales, probably highly carbonaceous. In these the slow and smothered combustion which has given the Smoky River its name, has taken place in a number of localities, and was in progress in 1879 in a scarped bank forming the angle at the junction of the main stream with the Little Smoky. The very lowest beils of the subdivion become paler in tint near the junction with the Lower Sandstones. The combustion of the shales on Smoky Eiver was observed in August, 18T9, in but one locality, that just alluded to. A small quantity of smoke was licre seen issuing from crevices at a considerable height above the river, while reddened masses of shales indicated por- tions of the beds which had already been burnt out. These so-called 'Bocannes' are described by Mr. Selwyn in the report already several times referred to.^l^ but thos'e seen by him were nearer the mouth of Smoky River, and in the Lower Shales of my classilication. At the Cause of the r . • f. 1 TT 1 • 1 1-1 fombustion. time of mj' visit to Smoky Kiver no combustion was observed in the Lower Shales, though marks of its former occurrence were seen. An examination of specimens of the shale by Mr. lloti'mann shows the presence of a large quantity of very finely divided ])yrites, with car- bonaceous mutter. These together are quite sufticit'iit to account for the slow combustion observed, and the pyrites may under certain cir- cumstances spontaneously initiate the phenomenon by the heat evolved during its decomposition. From the upper portion of the Upper Shales on the Smoky River, a Possils from short distance north of the crossing place of the trail from Bunvegan shales*.''*' to Sturgeon Lake, in latitude 55° 28', a number of fossils were obtained, • Report of Progress Geol. Survey of Canada, 1875-76, pp. 68,73. 124 b GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. it H t ■ i:. Upper Sand- stones and Shales. Lithological character. Lignite ooal. among which Mr. "Whitetives recognisen the following forms, proving the horizon to be that of the Pierre Group of the Missouri region, with the addition of a few forms of the Fox Hill, or next overlying group, and establishing a close connection between those remote localities : — Ilemiaster Btimphreysianut, Meek & Hayden. Ottroea. Pleria Unguiformis, Evans k Shumard. Pleria Nebraseana, Evans & Shumard. Inoeeramui mytilopsia, Conrad. Abundant. Volsella, — like V. Meeki of Evans k Shumard. Limopsis parvula ? Meek & Hayden. Nucula cancellata, Meek k Hayden. Nuculana bisulcata, Meek k Hayden. Protocardia (Leptocardia) rara, Evans & Shumard. Ooniomya Americana, Meek k Hayden. Liopistha (^Cymella') undata, Meek k Hayden. Anitomyon pateUiformiaf Meek k Hayden. Lunalia, species indeterminable. Aporrhais biangulata, Meek k Hayden. Scaphitea ventricoms, Meek k Hayden. Baeuliles, crushed fragments. Species unrecognizable. The Upper Sandstones and Shales are well shown at the mouth of Mountain Creek, which enters the Wapiti or Elk Eiver thirteen miles from its mouth, and on the lower part of the Wapiti River. About the mouth of Mountain Creek are numerous exposures of horizontal beds consisting of sandstones, generally soft and flaggy, shaly sandstones, shales and clays. The sandstones are often nodular, and hold bands and sheets of ironstone, together with coaly fragments and obscure fossil plants. They are yellowish, or greyish, or bluish-grey in tint, while the shales and clays have often a brownish earthy appearance. This earthy character of parts of the formation, at times renders it difficult to distinguish it locally from the overlying drift deposits; but it would appear that at least one bed of soft rusty conglomerate im included in it. The pebbles in this are compo.sed chiefly of Rocky Mountain (^uartzites, while those now found in the bed of the river show a considerable proportion of Laurentian origin. Owing to its horizontal or nearly horizontal attitude the total thickness of beds exposed, belonging to this subdivision, is not great, probably not more than 200 to 300 feet. In Mountain Creek, large fragments of lignite coal in angular blocks which have evidently not travelled far, strew the bars. Very thin seams of coal were observed la the banks, but the loose pieces must be derived from thicker beds, which may outcrop below the water of the brook or be concealed by slides in the banks. Similar fragments of lignite coal |i 1 1!' BRITISH COLUMBIA AND NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 125 B are found along the Wapiti River above the mouth of Mountain Creek, showing that coal beds must also occur on the upper course of the Wapiti. • The lowest bods of this subdivision occur on Smoky River , at the Section at base water level, about ton and n half miles below its junction with thcRivor. Wapiti, but it is seen in the higher parts of the banks for about eleven and a half miles further down, or to the crossing of the trail from Dun- vegan to Sturgeon Lake. Near the base, a seam of good lignite coal five inches in thicknos was observed, associated with the following strata, in descending order to the water level: — Feet. Inches. Shaly clay 6 Sandstones with ironstone uoduies 5 Shales 7 Sandstone 10 Coal ' 5 Carbonaceous shale forming an underclay .... 2 30 5 Thickness of Subdivisions on the S7noki/ River. The average southerly dip of Ihe beds exposed in the Smoky River section appears to bo at the rate of five to eight feet in the mile. Taking this in conjunction with the probable slope of the riverbed, the following approximate minimum thickness for the several subdivi- sions as here developed, is obtained : — Feet. 1 . Upper Sandstones and Shales, top not seen 200 2. Upper Shales 350 3. Lower Sandstones and Shales 100 2. Lower Shales, base not seen 250 900 ■^' !;■ blocks n seams derived jrook or ite coal No fossils were obtained in the Upper Sandstones and Shales, nor. in ,...^ . . , . . T- ' Lithological the Smoky River section, in the Lower Sandstones and Shales, or Lower resemblance of RUDQlVlSlOIlfl Shales. The lithological similarity of subdivisions 1 to 3, and 2 to 4 is 80 close, that it is only in an undisturbed section like that of Smoky River that their separate existence and relations could be ascertained. In the case of isolated exposures, it becomes very difficult to pronounce to which subdivision they should be assigned. a i I i I! ' m^' 126 B ,, GEOLOOICAT, SURVEY OF CANADA. Jioc/is Exposed on Little Smoky River and the Athabasca. Upper sand- ^" ^'^^ upper piift of Iho Litllo Smoky River, wlioro followed by us Smoky!'" ^'"'^ ^^''"" travelling Houth-oiistvv.'ird from Stiirifoon Luko, tlioro arc mimor- OUH oxpoHuros of Hoft eiirthy Htindy shaloH, greyish or brownish, with greyish soft or nodularly hardened sandstones, the t)0(ls being hori- zontal where not disturbed by slides. Drift lignite was abundant in tlie stream, but was not obtaimsd in the banks. The locks are sup))0sed to represent the .south-oastorn continuation of the Upper Sandstones and Shales. UpperSnnd- O" 'oHving tiu^ Little Smoky, the country is entirely drift-covered to bjjgoa^""^''"'^' the Athabasca, but on this i-iver o-xposures are freciueiit from the point where we reached it in longitude 116° 48', for one hundred and ten miles, or to a point about tifteen miles below the site of Old Fort Assineboine, The river is rapid, and has a considerable rate of descent throughout this part of its length, but the rocks appear to slope east- ward at nearly the same angle, so that no repetition of the tine section of Smoky River is hero found. The beds exposed here l)elong also, it is supposed, to the Upper Sandstones. They consist of sandstones and shales, the former sometimes i'alse-bedded and often nodular, and pro- ducing in some places scarped slopes and dill's in the banks of the valley, the latter generally l)rownish and earthy, though in some beds Lignite coal, greenish-gi'ey and rather hard. Lignite coal is frequently seen in the banks for about sixty-two miles above Fort Assineboine anil several miles below that place. The exposure including lignite coal seen furthest up the river, showed, near the water's edge, the following section, in descending order : — Foet. luulies. Siindjtotit'8 and Shales — Shaly Lignite Coal 3 Soft Sandstone and Slialc 4 Good Lignite Coal. 1 8 Thick seams of About eight miles further down, in latitude 54° 11' 40" by observa- hgnitecoal. ^Jq,,^ longitude 115° 5(J', on the map accompanying this report, the most important deposit of lignite coal observed on the Athabasca was seen. Two bods here again occur, and are probabably the same with those above mentioned. They are shown near the water's edge in a ' , ' slide detached from the main baidc. The upper seam hero has a thick- ness of ton foot, without including in this measurement about six thin shaly partings, which make up in all about ton inches of shale. Bolow this seam is about twenty feet of soft earthy sandstone and shale, .fol- lowed by a sacond seam of clean hard lignite coal three feet in thick- BRITISH rOLlIMBrA AND NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 127 B ness. Tho upper soum coiitftinH, according to Mr. Uoft'inuiin, ll*47, the lowor lO'SS per coiit. of water. TliiH percentage of water, thoiigli more than in tho Pino River Forks and Mountain of Rociis coals, is tiir below that of tho Soiuis region. Further down the river, lignite coal is again soon in two thin seams, which occupy the same horizon, and tho persistently coal-boaring character of tho formation is thus evidenced, though tho only workable seams noticed are those above mentioned. Tho seam occurring a few miles lielow Old Fort Assinoboine is but four inches in thickness. The announcement of tho existence of coal seams on tho Athabasca was tirst made by Dr. Hector, who travelled uj) tiiis river in tiie winter of 1859. No exposures of tho rocks underlying the drift deposits wero foutid Lust expo- lower down the Alliabasca than about fifteen miles below Old Fort Athabosou? Assinoboine, though disturbed shales with some ironstone wero noted in a few places in slides, below tho mouth of tho Lesser Slaver Lake Jliver, and ma}-^ indicate that rocks similar to those above described continue to occur in some of tho high banks of (ho valley. A small oxposui'o of sandstone was found in one locality on thcs north bank of Lesser Slave Lake by Mr. McConnell, and fragments of lignite occur in tho bod of a large stream coming from tho north near tho east end of the lake. Impure lignite and sandstone also appear on the Swan Rivor and at Doer Mountain south of Slave Lake, according to Mr. Horetzky ; but with the.so trifling exceptions no indication of tho char- acter of tho bods underlying this eastern jiart of tho region was obtained ou tho routes travelled to Lac La Bicho and Edmonton. ■']''i Note to Comparative Table of Cretaceous Rocks. — In Column IV, the position of the rocks of the localities mentioned in the lowest subdivisions is uncertain. In Column V, tho correspondence of tho Upper Shales to tho Piori'o Group may be regarded as cjuito de- finitely fixed. The Productive (*oal-measuros in Column Vil and tho Chico in Column VIII, are also known to represent the Pierre horizon, while the precise equivalency of tho beds overlying the Productive mea- sures remains uncertain. In the (^ueen Charlotte Islands, scries C. is highly fossiliforous, and its position, as indicated, may be assumed as correct, while the time covered by the ovorlying and underlying beds is uncertain. „■■];■' .i?'s,';t I'vi m'^ii' COMPARATIVE TABLE OP CRP^TACEOUS ROCKS. I. II III. IV. V. NebraHka and Rocky Mountain 1} jkvI^^*« PlaiuH between 41>tli Parallel and Peace River. England, Ac. MlHHouri nugion. HaHkatcliiiwim. Rivor. 40th Paralle 1. (Boundary Com- uiJBsion Report.) (Smoky River Seitii'U.) Fort Union Laramie. Souris LiKiiitio and and Judith ' liiKiiito Tortiiiry ' «V*aXi% 1# 1*^4 A VA« 1500 to 5000. tfoiierally. a A /j Uud iMtids Moutiou. ' River Beda. Upper f Division y. Bad 1 Lamia Huctiiin, aUn SandritoneH and Shales. MaBstricht k No.5 Fox Hill. Fox Hill. 1 at White MiiJ Kiv- 1 or, Throe Hiittoi, (Wapiti Riv.Group) 200 feet or Faxoo Beds. 600. 1600 or more. 1 etc., Klbow of S. ISaskutchowaiiQu'- Appello Valley, more. I Eyebrow Hill, etc. Pombina Mt. Se- U p j» e r White Chalk. No. 4. Pierre. 700. Pierre. 250 to 300. ries. Division S- '•!' Had Laiids .section, also on Lower Sou- ris, Assinebo i n e , tiu'Ajilielle, KIbow Shales. (SniokyRiv. Gro >.)350 fe'-' of S.ba«katchowan. o SorioH 15. and C. o (Hector) N. Siwkat- I o chewan West to Ft. Pitt. N. slope Cy- press Hills, etc. .i V f Lime stun OR of Hoyne and Swan Lower Chalk Marl. No. 3. Niobrara. 200. Niobrara. 100 to 200. o o JUvers, marls of Thunder Hill. Se- ries below No. 4 on Sandstones. (l)unvegan r+- K. Hranch Milk Group.) 100 o River, Hector's Se- ft. t—t ries D. (?) on Battle O o River, Red Deer p River, Hand Hills, etc. Lower Upper No. 2. Benton. Benton. J Saskat c h o w a n Shales. Ft. ■St. John Group. 250 Qreensand. 800. 200 to 460. i ut Cole's i'ulhi (?) ft. or more. Ileotor's Series E., Gault. No. 1. Dakota. Dakota. with liffnitea ( ? ) Red Deer R., N. 400. 200 to 300. and S. Saskatche- ■■ : - ■ , ' wan, etc. (?) ,.' ,r-- Upper Neocomian. ' ■■■ ■'■ ■ ■ ■ ' 1 '-. ' ■ ., ? COMPARATIVE TABLE OP CRETACEOUS ROCKS.— Continued. VI. BritiMh Coltimbiu. (Intciior.) Necliiicco Series (?) "j Skeena suadatones >■ with impure coal. J Iltasyouco beds, 10,000. Skeena vol- canic series. Porphy. rite series. (?) Aucella beds of Tat- layoco, Jackass Mt. and Skagit. 7000 or more. Porphyrite series. (?) VII. British Columbia. (Coast.) VII. California. Niuiaimo. Comox. Samlgtnnes 3204 llpper jConglomer- ate •... .320 Um)or Shales 77« MuldloCongluinor- ate • 1100 Shalea 960 Middle Shales 76 Lower ConKlomor- ato 900 Lower Shades 1000 1326. Productive Coal Measures 739. Queen Charlotte Isl'ds Beds of B^orward Inlet, Quatsino Sd., Vancouver Island, A. Upper Shales and Sand- stones. ...1500 B. Conglomer- ates 2000 C. Lower Shales and Sand- stones. . . . 5000 D. Agglomer- ates 3500 E. Lower Sand- stones 1000 Tejon. Chico. ShaHta. u IMS i ' i i if! 130 B OEOLOGICAL SUEVET OP CANADA. General Eelations op the Eocks of the Peace Eiveb Eeoion. Conqnosition of the Rocky Mountains. Limestones and quartzites The composition of the Eocky Mountains about the head waters of Peace Eiver and its tributaries, has been described in such detail as our knowledge warrants in the procoding pages. The mass of the range appears to be composed of limestone, in which the only fossils found are with little doubt classed as Devonian. It remains uncertain whether in this part of the range any limestones of Carboniferous age compar- able with the Fumiina limestones of Stuart Lake occur, but it is exceedingly probable that this is the case. To the west these lim stones are supposed to be overlain by the Misinchinca schists, to the east by the Triassic Monotis bods, and it is at least possible that these overlying beds of the two sides of the range may eventually be found to be more or less strictly representative. The thickness of the limestones must be gi'eat, but j-emains indeter- minate. They appear to be underlain by massive quartzites, which must be exposed on the north branch of Pine Eiver, and are described as forming the lower part of Mount Selwyn on the Peace.* Triassic rocks. Devonian and Carboniferous limestones with quartzites, are exten- sively displayed in the Eocky Mountain Eanges between the Peace Eiver and the 49th parallel, ".nd it is probable that subsequ-ent investi- gation will develope the essential identity of the lower part of the section throughout this region. An important tliffcrence is found, however, in the absence of the overlying Triassic red beds witlv dolo- mitic sandstones and impressions of salt crystals, which evidence the existence on the 49th parallel and southward, of areas shut'off from the ocean. To the north the beds representing these in stratigraphical position are the ilfonoiJS shales from which it would appear that at that time the open sea flowed over the Peace Eiver country. In the Peace Eiver country as a whole, little altered Mesozoic rocks chiefly or entirely of Cretaceous age, occupy a width of about 330 miles, stretching from the eastern base of the Eocky Mountains east- ward to a point near the Palls. The Pahoozoic rocks appear to be concerded throughout this distance, but Devonian limestones anil gypsum beds emerge on the Peace Eiver below the point just indi- cated, forming a portion of the belt of Devonian, and possibly in places Silurian rocks, which runs from the Clearwater and Athabasca Eivers north-westward to the west end of Great Slave Lake. From the he.'ul waters of the Peace Eiver the Eocky Mountains would appear to run nearly due north, impinging on the Mackenzie at its bend, below the mouth of the Liard. At this point the Mesozoic basin, which has been gradually nai-rowing northward by the convergence of its Palrcozoic • Report of Progress QeoL Survey of Canada, 1875-76, p. 80. Cretaceous basin of the Peao ) Biver. BRITISH COLUMBIA AND NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 131 B, borders, is either interrupted, or at least very' much constricted. Trustworthy information concerning this northern region is however almost confined to Sir J, Richardson's necessarily brief account of it. Fragmentw of limestone holding Devonian fossils are move or less Drift-fra«- abundantly scattered over the whole Mesozoic region. In some ofv"n'iM"umeI these found by myself on the Wapiti River, Mr. Whiteaves finds the ^'°°®- following forms : — • Atrypa reticularis, Linn. Loxonema. Oasts of a small species. Euomphalus. One ca.st of a small species. Orthoceras. Fragments. In loose stones found by Mr. McConnell on the Battle River, north of Dunvogan, the following species are represented : — Acervularia projunda, Hall. According to Rominger (Foss. Cor. Mich., p. 106) this is a synonym of Cynlhophyllum Davidsoni, Milne Edwards. Atrypa reticularis, Linn. Abundant and well preserved. Orthis — ? Two small specimens. Modiolopsis (?) Sp. Cast of a right valve. Pterinea, Sp. Uudt. Two or three specimens. Pleurotomaria (?) — ? Casts. Naiicopsis Imvis? Meek. One example. Naticopsis — ? Several casts of a species very different to the preceding. Bellerophon. Species indetorminable. Orthoceras — ? Fragments. Calymme. Cast of the glabella of a small species. In the annexed comparative table the equivalency of the principal (,„yyg,^j.^^ ^j. western American representatives of the Cretaceous is dis])layed with^r^?^"'^""^^"*'" as great accuracy ot; present information allows, the region north of the 49th parallel, in British Columbia, and the North-west Territories, of a portion of which the present report treats, being exhibited in the greatest detail. It will bo observed that the Lower or Fort St, .John Shales of the Peace River region are supposed to be equivalent to the Benton Group of Meek and Ilayden's section, in a general way, while the Lower or Dunvegan Sandstones are assumed to be the representa- tives of the Niobrara, and the Upper Shales are witr-out doubt refer- able to the Pierre Group. As the overlying Pox Hill beds, in the Rocky Mountain and Missouri regions, are conformable not only with the Pierre below but with *he Laramie and Port Union above, and as no fossils have been found in the Upper Sandstones of the Peace River country, it is impossible at present to toll whether this subdivision represents the Fox Hill Group alone or this and the Laramie. In making these comparisons it must, however, be borne in mind that Meek and Ilayden's section, though well marked in Nebraska, is m' 132 B Change in character of Cretaceous westward- Gstuarine and Terrestrial conditions. Fossil plants. Estuarino Cre- taceoug beds in Utah. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. not found to be strictly applicable furthoi* west, in the vicinity of the Eocky Mountains, and that owing to the difficulty of tracing the sub- divisions in that region, Messrs. King and Hayden have agreed to name the Pierre, Niobrara and Benton Groups together, the Colorado Series. A similar change to the westward occurs north of the 49th parallel. This has already been i-eferrod to in my repoi't on the Geology and Hosoureos of the 49th parallel, and is found in the Peace River region even more markedly. The vicinity of the land of the Rocky Mountains, which hero even at this early time existed, has given rise to the formation of thick sandstones and conglomerates, while land surfaces have occurred during the deposition of both the Lower and Upper Sandstones. The occurrence of an estuarino and fresh-water fauna in a horizon of the Cretaceous nearly equivalent to the Niobrara, is a circumstance of great importance, and it is particulai-ly interesting to find that the fresh-water forms resemble so closely those of the Laramie group, and have such a decided Tertiary aspect. The occurrence is analogous to that known at Coalville, in Utah, where it would appear that at a period of the Cretaceous only a little later than that of the Dunvegan Sandstones, a stream must have brought numerous fresh-water forms into the edge of the Cretaceous sea. • Instead of a merely local develop- ment of such conditions, however, we Inive in the Peace Jliver country a widely extended subdivision of the Cretaceous of persistent fresh- water and estuarine character, which when properly studied, will jidd largely to our knowledge of the Cretaceous fauna. The occurrence of plants in the same beds also helps to bridge over the interval pre- viously existing between the Dakota and Vancouver Island (Chico) and Laramie floras. Of the locality already referred to in Utah, where fresh-water and marine shells are found together in association with valuable beds of coal, Prof Meek writes* : " The group of fossils found in the dark indurated clay G is, in several respects, a very interesting one, not only because every species is new to science, and all of them entirely diirorent from any yet found at any other locality , or even in any other beds of this locality (with possibly one or two exceptions), but on account of their modern affinities. Here we have from beds certainly overlaid by more than 1000 feet of strata contairung Cretaceous types of fossils, a little group of forms, presenting such modern affinities that, if placed befoi-o any jiuheontologist unacquainted with the facts, they would be at once rofei-red to the Tertiary." In regard to the circumstances of deposit of the several subdivisions • U. S. Geol. Survey of Territories, 1872, p. 44"^ BRITISH COLUMBIA AND NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 133 B pre- and and edrt of dark not irely ihcr lilt on tainly typos nities facts, risions of the Cretaceous of the interior region of the continent, a somewhat ^"fgi\'°"c°g. detailed note may be found in the report of the 49th parallel already taoeousrooka. referred to (chap. vii.). With the light since throwrt on the subject *- by the examination of the Peace River region, the following summary may be presented. It would appear that the Cretaceous opened with a period of con- Dukota period, siderable land surface, shallow waters, and current-driven sandbanks, and that these circumstances not only extended from the Nebraska region westward to the Wahsatch Mountains, but probably also north- ward to the Saskatchewan region, and possibly to the Peace Eiver country, though no beds so low as the Dakota series have yet been recognized here. Similar conditions atfected the Mississippi region, described by Prof. Hilgard, and probably at the same time the Creta- ceous coastrdeposits of New Jersey. This seems to have have been followed in ti.v. interior continental ^«'''*" p*""**- region, by a general subsidence, during which the Benton shales were formed, the great quantity of fine material required being, probably, brought into the region owing to the opening by the depression of wide avenues to the north through which cm-rents flowed southward, these shales are now known to occur northward to the Saskatchewan and Peace River districts. During a succeeding period of tranquility, in which but a small amount of detrital matter was introduced, the chalk-like Niobrara limestones of the Nebraska region were formed. These have now been found in several places along the eastern expo- sures of the Cretaceous north of the 49th parallel. In the Rocky Moun- tain region the Niobrara was a period of elevation, and calcai-eous beds Niobrara are not so important ; and it would now appear, if the correlation i'*"'"^- adopted in the table be correct and the Dunvogan Sandstones represent the Niobrara Group, that in the region of the Peace River the eleva- tion gave rise to widely extended tracts of low land. Here probably we find the land barrier which shutout the northern currents with the sediment which they may be supposed to have carried. In the Pierre shales, exceedingly tine in texture and of great thick- pierre period. ness, wo have evidence of a second considerable subsidence, which by again allowing the region to be traversed by marine currents, and perhaps also by bringing neighbouring decayed land surfaces under the action of the sea, supplied the necessary material. During this period, according to Meek and Hayden, a part of the clays and greeiisands of New Jersey were formed on the Atlantic coast; and in the Mississippi region, accoixling to Ililgard, the Rotten-limestone Group was deposited. The fact that calcareous beds were being formed in the southern por- tion of the interior continen'al trough, while deposits so purely argil- laceous were produced in the northern, seems to verify the supposition m i'» 134 b QBOLOGIOAL SURVEY OF CANADA. ( i Fox Hill period- Lnramie period. of the entrance of the sediment-bearing waters from the north. On the west coast, the subsidence appears to have allowed the Chico beds to spread to the foot of the Sierra, while land surfaces in Vancouver Island were brought down to the sea-level, and vegetable accumula- tions formed and covered by marine strata, giving rise to the valuable coal deposits of that region. Hero the subsidence must have continued for along period, while several thousand feet of strata were laid down. In the interior continental region, either elevation followed the Pierre period, or the increase of sediments proceeded faster than the slow subsidence, for the succeeding Fox Hill period is again charac- terized by sands and similar shallow-water accumulations; and between the Eocky Mountains and the Wahsatch, near the western margin of the sea, land surfaces, evidenced by the occurrence of coals, existed. That the decreased depth over the interior continental region was dno mainly to the filling up of the northern portion of the basin, rather than to elevation, seems to be indicated by the fact that limestones and marlites still continued to be deposited in the Mississippi region. During the deposition of the Upper Cretaceous, Transition or Eocene beds of the Laramie and P^ort Union series, depi-ession must have been steadily in progress, for while land surfaces are evidenced at many horizons, the thickness of the formation is very groat. The accumula- tion of material, howevei', outstripped the slow sinking, for during this period marine conditions came to an end, the salt water being first excluded from the eastern, afterwards from the western part of the area. Coal-Bearing Character op the Peace Eiver Eocks. Two ooal-bear- ing horizons. Probable oc- curence of workable seams. In both the horizons characterized by sandstones in the Peace Eiver district, coal occurs, and while as above stated the up])er may in part represent, the Laramie, the lower is certainly well down in the Creta- ceous formation. This in itself is a point of considerable importance, showing that the carboniferous character of the rocks is not confined to a single series of beds, but recurs at two stages. It also probably confirms the view advanced by Dr. Hector and supported by Mr. Selwyn, for the Siiskatchewan country, as to the existencc| of a coal- bearing horizon in the Cretaceous of that region, in addition to that of the Tertiary or Laramie age. It would thus appear, that while in the region lying between the Athabasca and the Peace Eivers, no coal seams sufficiently thick to be of great economic value have yet been discovered, that coal and lignite of good quality occur in two distinct series of beds. Wherever natural sections of these occur in the valleys of rivers and streams, coal River 1 part reta- ance, ed to bably Mr. coal- lat of fii the to be ll and jrever coal ^ BRITISH COLUMBIA AND NORTH-WEST TBRBITORT. 135 B in greater or less quantity is found, and the persistently carboniferous character of the beds thus abundantly proven. There can be little doubt that beds of a workable character exist in diflferent parts of this district and will be found by further search. The promising coal-bearing belt of rocks, supposed to belong to the J^estem coal- Lower Sandstones and Shales, which runs south-eastward fi-om the Canon of the Mountain of Rocks to Table Mountain and the Lower Forks of Pine River, probably extends still further in the same dii-ec- tion, crossing the head-waters of the "Wapiti and Smoky Rivers above the points reached in my exploration, and forming the south-western side of a synclinal in which the Uiiper Sandstones and Shales lie. In this the coals reported by the Indians to exist on the upper parts of these rivers may occur. On the extension of these formations to the south-eastward, a bed of Coals on the ' Pembina and coal, reported to be eight feet in thickness, occui's near the projected Saskatchewan, railway crossing of the North Pembina River, while between Fort Edmonton and the mouth of the Brazeau River, on the Saskatchewan, a seam of coal from fifteen to twenty feet in thickness was discovered by Mr. Selwyn in 1873; * and otherHhick seams are reported on the upper part of the Brazeau. An analysis of the fuel from the North Pembina River made in 1874, by Prof. Ilaanel, gives the following composition: — Water 11-88 Volatile combustible matter , 28-66 Fixed carbon ST. 25 Ash 2 21 100-00 The coal collected by Mr. Selwyn at the place above referred to on the Saskatchewan yielded to Dr. Harrington the following result on analysis by slow coking:— Water 1009 Volatile combustible matter 28 69 Fixed carbon 54-96 Ash 5-45 10000 While neither of these can be classed as true bituminous coals, they are fuels of great value, and compare closely with those brown coals used extensively on the line of the Union Pacific Railway in the Rocky Mountain region. • Report of Progress, Geol. Survey of Canada, 1873-74, p. 49. rtiU ■if ,i ■ii^ 136 b timOLOatCAt SDRVEY 01" CANADA. If' Ironstone. In many localities on the Peace River, and between that stream and the Athabasca, clay ironstone in nodules and nodular sheets is abun- dant; but generally not in such quantity as to justify a belief in its economic importance. On the lower part of Smoky River, however, as already mentioned, groat quantities of ironstone of excellent quality might be collected from the bars and beaches. Glaciation and Superficial Deposits. Deocent of ice by Siceena Valley. In the report of 18'r8-79'it was stated that during the period of glaciation the glaciei* ice of the mainland probably extended to the outer islands of the Coast archipelago, and the evidence of the passage of ice over the Gnarled Islands lying in Dixon's Entrance, north of Dundas Island was noted, (p. 97 b.) The valley of the Skeena must have been one of the larger troughs by which the ice descended from the continental land, and in following the valley up, we find accordingly the traces of the seaward progress of the glacier. On the rocks of the little promontory at Port Essington, heavy and well marked glacier grooving was observed below high-tide mark, the exposed portion of the surface being roughened by weathering. For more than forty miles up the river from this point, the rocks were very frequently noticed to be striated and grooved, while the slopes of the larger projecting masses are sometimes such as to show the effect of ice action on the mountain sides at 3000 feet above the water. Smooth glaciated surfaces are seen, however, only when the slopes have been comparatively lately ba."ed by slides. Sig^fification of The signification of terraces on the sea coast is sufficiently clear, as indicating a former depression of the land, but on going inland, in a mountainous country, their meaning is by no means so easily under- stood. In a valley like the Skeena, glaciers may at various times have pressed so far across it as to dam back the waters and bring about the formation of terraces without any necessary alteration of the level of the land, or mere river terraces may be mistaken for traces of change in elevation. The singular absence of extensive detrital de- posits along the coast, has already several times been referred to in previous publications, and those of the Queen Charlotte Islands and vicinity of Port Simpson are described in the repoi't for 1878-79. About eighteen miles above Port Essington, on the Skeena, a some- what extensive terrace-flat with an elevation of about 200 feet was noted, but with this exception, and that of the gravel and silty deposits of the low flats through which the river winds, no detrital deposits of importance were observed till the mouth of the Kitsuragalum River was reached. A hard gravelly deposit rising about twenty feet above the terraces. Terraces on Skeena. BRITISH COLUMBIA AND NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 137 B river here occurw, and floors a portion of the wide valley which at this ,* place crosses that of the Skeona. Ahove Sip-ki-wa rapid, terraces of gravel twenty to thirty feet in height were again observed to border the river. Between Kitsalas and Kwatsalix Canons similar deposits are seen, and terraces to a height of 170 feet above the river were found in one place. On continuing to ascend the river the amount of detrital matter and breadth of terraces increase. At Kit-wan-gah, terraces with a probable height of 200 to 500 feet were observed, while on a mountain side below that place a terrace was noted at least 1500 feet above the stream. Near the mouth of the Kitseguecla some material resembling typical boulder clay occurs In crossing from the Forks of Skeena to Babine Lake, the rocks Qiijciation in 1 , . 1 • 1 . 1 .11 n 1 Babine Moun- were observed to be glaciated in one place near the head waters of the tiUns. tributaries of the Sus-kwa, the direction being westward, or down the valley. The summit passed over by the trail is formed by a wide terrace-flat, sloping gently soutln/ard. Its Hurfaco is strewn with rounded and sub-angular blocks of varied origin. Its height is about High terrace. 4300 feet, and its character implies the somewhat prolonged action of the water «t this level. Smaller terraces clinging to the slopes of the valleys were observed at several places immediately west of this summit, and one of these was estimated to have an elevation of about 4900 feet. About the shores of Babine and Stuart Lakes, superficial deposits are Babine and largely developed. Behind the Hudson Bay post at the north end of " "^ * Babine Lake, two terraces were observed, the lower 160 a second 200 feet above the lake. The first of these is very well marked in many places further up the lake. On the slope of the Na-tal-kuz Mountain, terraces estimated at 800 to 1000 feet above the lake occur. Similar terrace-flats spread widely on the north-east side of Stuart Lake, and the old water-linos are even clearly shown in the cutting back of the limestone rocks near Fort St. James in a stop-like manner at various elevations. The country over which the portage between the lakes is made, is for the most part a terrace-flat, with an elevation of about 400 feet above Babine Lake. The white silt deposit of the Nechacco region, described in the report White siltde- 1876-77, is not found in the valley holding Stuart and Babine Lakes, '^"'*' except at Fort St. James, at the southei-n extremity of the former. Strong curi-ents or other causes may have prevented its deposition, but it is quite clear from the terraced character of the sides of FranQois, Fraser, and the two lakes just mentioned, that these formed at one time arms and bays of an extended and gradually subsiding sheet of water, in which, in the Nechacco region, the white silts were being laid down. !\ i 4 M: i ■'iX hi} iii 138 B QEOLOaiOAL SURVEY OP CANADA. Glacial stria- Terraces. m Pot-holes and moraines. Material of drift. Miainchlnca and Pine Pass. On the hills behind the Hudson Bay post at the north end of Babine Lake, the rocks show striation in a bearing of S. 24° E., which is that of the valley. The direction of movement has piobably been from north to south. On the vertical face of the low clitfs of a small island more than half way up the lake, glaciation was observed. This was evidently the result of glacier ice passing southward between the island and the main shore, and pressing upward as the degree of con- striction of the passage became greater. The little island at the mouth of the Yi-ko Eiver at the head of Stuart Lake is also glaciated, and apparently indicates a direction of movement from S, 10° E. The country between Stuart and McLeod Lakes has already been described as a deeply drift-covered region, rising at the Paciflc-Arctic watershed to a height of 2820 feet, and lying to the north of and at a greater elevation than the white silt plain of the Lower Nechacco. The surface is generally undulating, or stretches out in wide terrace-flats, the whole indicating a general submergence as the condition for its forma tion. Near Carp Lake, and elsewhere, are some remarkable pot-holes, in a few cases nearly one hundred feet deep and with very steep sides. These are probably due to the simultaneous action of water and the retreating edge of a glacier, which has left pretty evident tokens of its extension into this region in the broken ridgy country found on both sides of Iroquois Creek. There can be little doubt that these ridges represent moraines, and the contemporaneous action of water is here again indicated by the presence of terraces among them. The glacier producing these moraines must have pushed thus far westward from the valleys of the Eocky Mountains. The material of the drift of this region is very varied in oi'igin, including besides rocks probably referable to the Cache Creek Series, some of Mesozoic and Tertiary origin, and also a considerable propor- tion of ' Quartzite drift.' On approaching McLeod Lake, the latter preponderates and is eventually found almost to the exclusion of other material. This ' Quartzite drift ' was found in a former season largely developed near Fort George, and is now definitely ascertained to have come from the Eocky Mountain ranges. On the Misinchinca Eiver, with the exception of comparatively low terraces bordering the stream, drift deposits appear to be scantily repre- sented, though in the valley of its tributary, the Atunatche, by which the summit of tbe Pine Pass is reached, the slopes are in some places heavily covered with earthy material. EoUed stones are also found several hundred feet up the mountain side above the actual summit of the Pass, and on the south-west side there appears to be a terrace at a height of 300 to 500 feet. Glaciation was observed in two or three places on the Misinchinca. The rocks arc distinctly glacier marked BRITISH COLUMBIA AND NOkTH-WEST TERRITORY. 139 B oa-igin, Series, •opor- latter other argely have whore the trail crosses the river, the direction being parallel to that of the valley. At the foot of the precipice on the north side of the summit, the rocks show glaciation in a bearing of N. 60° W. In the upper part of the valley of Pino Kivor, no rock striation Ab^enoe^f ^^ was observed, though this would probably be found by more careful Pino River, search. Tiie soft character of the rocks is not favourable to the pre- servation of such marks. Drift deposits appear, however, to be almost entirely absent, and though the sides of the valley in many places simulate terraced forms, this is found to depend on the outcrop of the nearly horizontal sandstone beds. The upper part of the river is paved with glistening fnigments of shistose and generally micaceous rocks derived from the mountains. The large tributary entering at the Upper Forks brings with it little but quartzito, which from its supe- rior hardness and resistance continues to prevail on the lower reaches of the main river, tho sandstone rocks disappearing. About twenty-eight miles above tho Middle Forks, terraces of rolled Terraces on liower Pine gravel and lino silty sand begin to appear, one of the best marked being River. about no foot above the river. The plateau in which tho river valley is excavated has a height of about 1000 feet above the river, or 3000 feet above the sea. It is not hero thickly covered with drift material, but there are many water-rounded stones, a large proportion of these being hard quartzito pebbles like tho more resistant materials of the axial range of the Eocky Mountains. Those are mingled with a Drift material. pi'oponderating number of fragments of the softer sandstones of the country, and imbedded in a whitish or cream coloured silty clay, not unlike the material representing the boulder clay over wide districts west of the Eocky Mountains. No Laurentian or other fragments of eastern origin were observed in this region. The character of tho plateau changes about tlie Lower Forks, and instead of showing aHeavydria cov6rinff* comparatively thin covering of drift deposits, the surface of tho country is composed to a great depth of such material, the plateau having an averngo elevation of about 2400 feet. On Coal Creek, sections show in some places 150 feet of drift deposits resting on the Cretaceous beds, the lower part is generally gravelly,and holds bouldei-s, while tho upper is a fine silty deposit. Tho route followed passes over the northern spurs of tho higher plateau country which is attached to the foot hills to tho south and west, crossing a summit of 3300 feet between Coal and BuflFalo Crooks. No change in the character of the drift deposits was noted, but on reaching the J)'Echafaud Eivcr, Laurentian pebbles Laurentian and boulders were for the first time seen in considerable abundance. f''*«'"«°'** The elevation of tho D'Echafaud Eiver at this point is 2030 feet, but as the boulders now in the river bed have evidently been derived from the material of the plateau through which it is cut, the level at which 140 B QEOLOaiOAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Peace River plateau. Boulder clay. Silt. Submeri required Material of drift. the Laurentian drift may be said to begin in tluH region must bo about 2300 to 2500 feet. East of this point, the general character of the country in regai*d to its Huperficial deposits is so uniform that it is scarcely necessary to particularize localities in describing it. The surface is thickly covered with drift deposits, so much so that exposures of the underlying rocks are, as a rule, only found in the larger river valleys. The lower layei*s of the drift probablj' represent the boulder clay of the plains to the south and oast, and northern part of British Columbia to the west. They are sandy clays with stones and boulders in greater or less abundance, and their upper surface is somewhat Irregular, rising in some places in ridges or broad gentle elevations which stand out above the newer silty deposits. The latter have already been spoken of in connection with the soil of the district, and cover by far the greater area of its surface. The silt is generally pale grey or fawn colour, and very fine, in some places changing to a clay, and elsewhere becoming a fine sand. A stretch of sandy country of this kind borders the lower part of the Wapiti River, and in ascending gradually toward the Athabasca, and southern rim of the Peace River basin, the silt becomes coarser and eventually sandy. During the submergence to which the deposit of the silt is due, these places must have been swept by stronger cur- rents, preventing the finer material from falling to the bottom. The average elevation of the plateau is somewhat greater than 2000 feet, but the degree of submergence required to account for the distribution of boidders over its higher parts near the Athabasca River is at least 3300 feet. The occurrence of Laurentian boulders at this height near the Athabasca, renders it difficult to understand their apparent absence, or at least rarity, in the region about the Middle and Lower Forks of the Pine River. In regai-d to the material of the drift, the stones and boulders scattered over this great district are in part those of the Rocky Moun- tains, in part derived from the Laurentian axis to the north and east. The fragments from the first-mentioned source are generally of hard quartzites, the limestone and other softer rocks found abundantly in the immediate vicinity of the mountains decreasing rapidly as we re- cede from them, and eventually all but completely disappearing. This circumstance is also observed in the vicinity of the 49th parallel.* The Laurentian material is chiefly gneiss and granite of the usual woll marked types, and as above stated is still abundant at an elevation of about 3300 near the north bank of the Athabasca, at the watershed between that river and the Peace. Laurentian boulders were noted as Qeology and Resources of the 49th parallel, p. 246. ; ' BRITISH COLUMBIA AND NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 141 B abundant in the lower part of tho Smoky Rivor, and some particularly large ones on tho Athabasca between tho mouth of Lesser Slave River and tho Landing. Between the Landing and Edmonton, Laui'cntian boulders are in some places excoodingly numerous, bu^ fir.artzite from tho Rocky Mountains is still present. The sandy hills forming the watershed between tho Athabasca and Saskatchewan, with an elevation of about 2500 foot, in their forms and material show evidence of strong current action. The circumstanccH causing tho glaciation of British Columbia 'i"^! {?,^*e oTgll- the sequence of tho various phenomena have been discussed in previous elation, reports, and in the Quarterly Journal of tho Geological Society.* It will consequently bo unnecessary to recapitulate tho details of evidence collected in various regions, but it may bo stated that the main question seemed to resolve itself into two possible cases. A general north-to-south movement of ico is indicated by striation in a number of places extending over a length of about 450 miles in tho interior plateau region. The same I'ogion is covered with drift deposits requiring by their character and mode of arrangement tho action of water from elevations exceeding 5000 feet downward. To account for these facts, the flow of strong Arctic currents bearing heavy ico during a period of great submergence may be supposed, or it may bo necessary to believe, that tho whole region has been buried under a massive con- fluent glacier, the drift deposits being laid down as it retreated either during a period of submei-gonco, or in water held back by glacier-dams in the valleys of tho various mountain ranges. It was supposed that tho gaps of Peace and Pine Rivers in the ^"^^^'^^^^^'^g^ Rocky Mountain ranges, might have sufficed for the entrance from the north-east of such currents and masses of ice as would be required by the first theory. But the examination of tho region with this suppo- sition in view, has convinced me that notwithstanding the general decrease in elevation and width of tho Rocky Mountains, the valleys of the Peace and Pino are too narrow and indirect, and tho surrounding mountains too high, to allow the inflow of sufficient currents with tho degree of subsidence which would be indicated by most of the localities of glaciation and by the superficial deposits. Neither is there any Probabio great evido!ice of the passage of drift material in this region across the tish Columbia, mountains either from oast to west or in the opposite direction. It therefore remains as tho most probabio hypothesis that a great glacier mass has filled the region between tho Coast Ranges and Gold and Rocky Mountains, which may bo designated as tho interior plateau, moving, though perhaps very slowly, southward and south-eastwai-d from the * Report of Progress Geol. Survey of Cana4a, 1877-78, p. 150 B, 1878-79, p. 98 B. Geol. Sooy., 1878, p. 117. Quart. Jour. II 1* vV ' V !'!'■ ! i', i:i'. 1 9 i !!;■. F # : -i . 1 i < ' 1 ( 1 f^ 1 142 b OEOLOaiOAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Probable gen- eral submer- gence. White Silts. The Coteau. Mingling of drift from east and west. rflgion of great precipitation and high mouiitainM of the noi'thorn part of the province, and diHciiarging by the Okanngan dopreHaion and through the valleys of the Coast liango. It still appears to ino most probable, however, that this stage of the glacial period was closed by a general submorgonce, during which the deposit spoken of as boulder clay was laid down, and as the land again / rose many of the terraces and benches wore formed. Conditions may be invented to account for the temporaiy existence of a groat lake over the Interior Plateau of British Columbia, but this will not explain the great submorgonce which appears to be required by the drift-deposits of the east side of the Eocky Mountains, which were probably produced at the same time and by the same agencies. The last stage of the glacial period in the northern low country of British Columbia ap. pears to have given rise to the silts of the Lower Nechacco basin, while to the north-east, on the opposite side of the Eocky Mountainn, similar deposits were laid down over the Peace Eiver country. The gen- eral elevation of the white silt plains of the Nechacco is somewhat loss than 2600 feet, of the.Poace Eiver country between 2000 and 2500 feet. The general question of the oi-igin of the drift-deposits of the great plains, and more particularly of the western portion, having been fully discussed in the Geology and Eesources of the 49th Parallel, and in a paper communicated to the Geological Society of London,* it will be unnecessary to enter at length into it hero. The most prominent fea- ture of the glacial deposits of the plains is the Missiouri Coteau, which it was supposed ran northward from the region in the vicinitj' of the 49th parallel where it was more particulaly studied, nearly following the margin of the third prairie steppe. This supposition has since been in great measure confirmed, and on the journey from Edmonton to Win- nipeg in the Autumn of 1879, I was able to examine cursorily the character of the third prairie steppe where it touches the north Saskat- chewan near the Elbow, and to observe the great accumulation of heavy boulders of eastern and nortiicrn origin in that vicinity. Further north, with the general lowering of the surface of the country, the well defined zone of drift deposits known as the Coteau appears to be lost, the material being scattered broadcast over a wide surface, and approaching in considerable mass the high lands near the base of the Eocky Mountains. It will have been observed, however, that over the entire area examined, the material from the Eocky Mountains has also been strewn eastward, implying a sea in which ice bearing debris both from the Laurentian Axis and Eocky Mountains floated freely. This at least appears to be the only mode of accounting for the distribution of the material forming the drift in this northern part of the region of the plains, as well as in that to the south previously studied. • • Op. cit., p. 218, et »e-, 25 03 •< H 1^ K H O S H O O Ed tn H o 4> bO S c8 .a bo a o a "5 o o & p •a ■a d a> C T3 GEOLOGICAL 8UKVET OF CANADA. o (i Q S ^ S •a ■a d "2 "S — J3 d S3 a £ 00 03 O O O) '■♦3 T3 £■§ ft d «^ Eh qj .a -♦-» •3 ® c u 00 V S " a ^ Ti to s S 00 Ui 5"^ a 00 -S &0 c3 2 « " I- t- 3 a> -«^ *» es ^ a 00 >, O .„ _^ .- ■^ « s |sa I* >— to .a 00 "r; -t^ 00 o ® 13 T3 »> 3 is ^ o 5 o * W -o a !« a a.« •- a ■*-' at 00 °^ ^ .S o.a ^ o o a i^ b' § ■3 !«• t > > a .s m in ill-to uds d a cfl*— ■^■° 2. ? "•a § a pj .-0 .0 . a° a^ a . 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B c . 0) • " * s > f !>• ®: o: t-. h Pi O b3 « — ■ « P? fl- .^ 00 V &H. J: ."* ™ ft ^ P 8 IS o o O or a. a .c -§ (►I a .2 ti J^ a- a' 6- »« a a S W M « .J:- " 1 •a W .T3 • a : <« ja .a o a- w ^ a- a a ? - Wl c9 B* a M : ' i ^ £ cil C ^ w o ^ 0) a Ob I" I' - ■»;- fe- b- *■ 4 I "II ll if; .1; I I If I I.;; I 152 GEOLOaiCAL SURVEY OF CANADA. o pS OS IS M o a 1(5 ^^ •SI »- a pno|o JO j.my •pnoiojo puiH 'P«!A1. JO ac-io.! •pniM JO noivjaJia •innmiuim •tnnni!K'Bi\[ ••«!V JO ojn')«jadinex •jajeHioiBa do fi, ^ do a • St s t> N 09 ooc. o.S XI ,=8 to .S. o *- •r) a ■ a a •. [£ oi : u - - gjg OCi COOt-iC-aOCJOOf-H CO Oi QO ^ iT- O 00 :^ . f^OlCOOOOOOC^ClCD-^ 00 _6 ■♦OCON r-CO cq*»i-ii-iOT-icoO .1 hA t/.OM ojy "?ai^ s ^ ^ 'A J!5 • CO • o5 • ^ o w omoo _^ Cl CM c5 a s a a"' Cci C.C3 SS8S fe-i iQC-i "M QD r— wr »c '-t* o c^ 1?^ co 40^*0 'US • «o • to CO 'CO -co 'CO "^ ■a ?5 ioootoiou:)Ooo»o>ooioooooio (rO'MrX)'M*t*r-nO*^'':P X' W? MW C^ 'JO <— ' »0 OO Q OOOOl-w- COO'. C. OCT'3^^*C^i-'i— It— ••-HOOOCOlO aa aaaaaaaaa a £.si C cj Oc re C <« C, ^ a :i O tC I^ ITS '^ -^ '^ >C -^ :C 00 «5 aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa C.cja:ec.:iae:c.:iC.:Sasc.da33Q,:a SS3?3?5 S5Si SlS^SS^SlS?! « SSsSSS'^.'-' (N N CO CO ■«»' •«»i "5 "o ; ^^•S: a CO o & : la ^ * a >: o C9 ^ s a a "^ : a*- . a1 aai: « a x « § . to 01 ^ o PQ. a. (^* 3- O J« a": 5: ?? 09 3 3 cS e8 ©t ©: *J -u cj d \ BRITISH COLUMBIA AND NOETH-WEST TERRITORY. 153 B SI S 3 (n .? E) S B £j= >. a e to c T3 O 13 a &^ M :'^ a »T3 -s ft .ST3 S ^ ft " •t>; « o 3 §v c> •••^ » CO CJ ^ ,^ , , . ..js^ - 0-0_0_0 t> O^^XJ ^ 60 • M .CO •fete S 6D tt-S '•CS g O C— »i wj , a r; (14 1^ '^t. ?•-- (» ■ . • ••!S -73 C q . B : C — - •i? '.& . - . _ fc S t» 0-..0 u _ ^^ : a ■■"i . C8 :■§ : 2 '.■c •: ^ H I- . «J . '/J * 0) . OJ C 5 a btg ou; ^ ^ .53 o is "* ci *- c3 •73 sg a^ 5 g a •a£^-B-B;s;s X'jrjs..oj2j3jj coo • >■ •'W • .■z :.S : :« :g : • m • , . flj • .^ - : fc : fc.T3 • . : a; B • i-S 2'fe • ■» E a '^ ! . -B to • ,J3S . • O t* . 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ITt (i< a> C3 n . O, h. *- "-I- Ai, •/; S do H 5 35 ■« .2 m fA •••-- -w- « •p; 0-1: _c •* cq fc a- w- 5' - - 00 1: > « « oj S » O O 2 a rs Im 00 « ' M' JS ^ In 166 b OKOLOaiOAL SURVEY OK CANADA. 1 1 ■ ■k h> jt I 1 ' t «f^*'' T a M ■11 V ■2 a P"o i3 J£_? o' = bt". „- XlOpO ■jsS o :a •9* ' c tc e : t-j; « o .. .. . . Q u o JJ3 ( fg- OOC(NaOOiOtOOOOOOr-lOOOO»3"f MOO a! 00 oi c/j 03 '-' tA' t/J t/j w 03 02 oa oon*4<0)OOa^cDc& to e>5 •PU!AV JO U0!P8JI([ ■nintniuiK H ti ^ •ajv JO 'JO)omoiB({ O ev|(r»«MlNOINr1r-<« -O -^O •-«< -O •£) '31 •«) •« ooooooooooooO'Ooooiftmo O • O * »0 • 'O • o ~ H •o 'Oi -co -co Ol CO i-H CO CO :D O 'Y «0 -^ 00 OJ to r-i Ol 00 OS go C^ u OOOtAOOOOOO ^ 00 1-^ O t^ t-H 00 :d w CO 5e300COCOr- S- 5' t- a* a- ^ 3 o 3 ce Izi a fH o o BRITISH COI UMBIA AND NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 157 b APPENDIX III. NOTE ON THE LATITUDES AND LON(JITUDES UHKI) IN I'UKPAKIMO A MAP OF Till-: R KG I ON FROM THE PACIFIC COAST TO EDMONTON. OBSERVATIONS I5Y 0. M. DAWSON, 1879. In the case of observiitions of the sun, the angle given is the greatest double altitude, /«. twice the apparent altitude with the diameter of the sun. With stars the angle noted is also the double altitude. The index error is in all cases allowed for. Indian Village at upper end of Kitsalas Canon, Skeeiia River, June 16. Sun at noon 118° 2' 50" Resulting latitude 54° 37' 6" North end Babine Lake, opposite Hudson Bay Post, June 29. Time by watch 5h. 26ni. 26s. Sun 48°.n6'35" " " " .5h. 29m. lOs. » 47° 40/ 50" " '< « 5h. 31m. 47s. " 47° 5' 20" Resulting error of watch 33s. slow Observations on sun near meridian for latitude. Time by watch oh. 12m. 40s. Sun 116° 16' 35" " " " oh. 15m. 308. " 116° 11' 50" Resulting latitude 66° 20 ' " Moon on meridian, double altitude 24° ;i7' 10" Resulting latitude 55° 22' 19'° (Mr. Horetzky's latitude observed at the Hudson Bay Company's Post is probably more accurate than either of these.) Babine Lake, July 1. Sun at noon 117° 0' 16" Resulting latitude 54° 52' 39" Babine Lake, July 2. Sun at noon 117° 26' 16" Resulting latitude 54° 35' 29" I 1 ^!^ ,, or. \^i5"f7w >:■'.■•■, t; ■ 158 B GEOLOGICAL STTRVEY OF CANADA. li Iff South end of Portage between Bnbine and Stuart Lakes, July 4. Sun at noon 117" 4/ 46'/ Resulting latitude 54° 36' 22" Stuart Lake, 200 yards south of Fort St. James, July 6. Sun iit noon 117° I ' C" Resulting latitude 54° 26' 51" Same place, July 7,— Sun at noon 116° 48' 26" Resulting latitude 54° 26' 53" Time by watch 3h 33m. 15s. Sun 78° 36' 6" " " " 3h. 40m. 17s. " 77° 28' 56" " ' " .3h. 4'7m. 348. " 75° 25' 06" Error of watch from mean of observations 3m. 30s. slow Point where Fort St. James and McLeod's Lake trail first reaches Salmon River July 9. Time by watch loh. 21m. 14s. Polaris 198° 4' 56" " •' " lOh, 28m. 44s. « 108° 10' 16" Resulting latitude from mean of observations 54° 36 ' 20" B'ort McLeod, July 15. .'. .itnoim 113° 33' 41" flesultinfe latitude 55° 0' 2" Latitude by Mr. MacLeod's observation 55° 0' 9" Crossing of Misinchinca River. July 23. Sun at noon 110° 9' 10" Resulting latitude 55° 14' 39" Summit Camp, Pine River Pass, July 28. (Observation on T[. Ursa Majoris for time.) Time by watch 12h. 35m. 53s. Star 60° 25' lo" « '< '< I2I1. 40m. 42s. " 59° 27' 40" Error of watch by mean of observations 5ni. 57s. slow Time by watch I2h. 9m. 10s. Polaris Ill" 43' 40" I' " " I2I1. 15m. 20s. " 111°46'50" Resulting latitude by mean of observations 55° 23' 55'' Pine River, July 31. Time by watch lib. 21m. 15s. Polaris 111° 37' 0" « '< " lib. 27m. 25s. " 111° 41' 0" Eesulting latitude by mean of observations 55° 31' 38" Pine River, August 1. Time by watch 5ii. I7m. 20.s, Sua 42° 6' 10" " '' " 5li. 20m. 498. " 41° 8' 10" Error cf watch by mean of observatio.-s 6m. .ts. slow Camp near Middle Forks of Pine Rivfi-, August 5. Altair on meridian 85° 53' 46" Resulting latitude 55° 37' 20" Time by watch 9h. 47m. 41s. « « << 9h. 55m. 10s. Polaris 110° 59' 10" '< 111° 4' 5'' "T ; BRITISH COLtJMBrA AND NORTH-WEST TERRfTORY. 159 B ID" 5'' Lower Forks of Pine Kiver, August V. (Hunter's Tren.) Sun on meridian 110° 50' 58" Resulting latitude 55M3' 42" Plateau east of Mud River, August 1 1. Altair on meridian 85" 34' 40" Resulting latitude 5.")" 46' 54" Time by watch lOh. 33ui. 3s. Polaris 112" 9' 0" '< " " lOh. 39ui. 22s. '• 112' 13' 50" Plateau east of D'Echafaud River, August 1 3. ti AquiliE on meridian 05" 56' 10" Resulting latitude 55" 53' 34'/ Plateau east of Z)'Echafaud River, August 14. Altair on meridian 85" 28' 40" Resulting latitude 55" 49' 54" Dun vegan, August 17. Sun at noon 95" 25' 0" Resulting latitude 55° 50' 11" September 3. Time by watch 8h. 49m. 478. Polaris 1 1 2" 26' 27" " " " 8h. 57m, 55s. " 112° 31' 37" September 4. (150 feet N. of former and succeeding observations.) Sun at noon 82" 55' 7" Thermometer, 08' Barometer, about 29 20 Resulting latitude 55" 56' 10" September 4. Observations on sun for time. Time by watch 2h. 37m. 3s. '• '• " 2h. 38m. 39s. " '< " 2h. 39m. 38s. « «' '< 2h. 41m. 46s. Sun 57" 55' 27" " 57° 32' 37" " 57" 18' 57" '• 56" 48' 37" Thermometer 70" Harometer, 29' 20 Resulting error of watch trom mean of observations 30m. j9s. slow September 4. Time by watch 8h. 36m. 56s. Polaris U2" 20' 17" « 112" 23' 7" 8h. 40m. 27s. 8h. 45m. 44s. 112" 26' 27" Resulting latitude September 4. Altair on mcriilian 85" 16' 7" Thermometer, 38-5" Barometer, 29-20 Resulting latitude 55° 56' 14" Mean latitude adopted for Dunvegan (New Fort) 55° 56' 1 1 5" i\ ' ■'I 4 160 b GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. m\ •6 I Grande Prairie, August 19. Altair on meridian 86' 27' IleHuUing latitude 55" 20' Near Smoity River, August 24. Sun at noon 92° 52' Resulting latitude 54" 53' Wapiti River, August 25. Sun at iioon 01 " 39' Resulting latitude 55° 9' Smoky River Crossing, August 2i',. Sun at noon 90" 18' Resulting latitude 55' 28' N. B. — Passing clouds, but jjrobably good to within half a mile. Smoky River, August 28. Sun at noon 87" 57' Resulting latitude 55" 57' Smoky River Post, August 29. Sun at noon 80° 45' Resulting latitude 5C"^11' North Bank of Bad Heart Hiver, September 6. Time by watch 8h. 2 I ui. :i9s. Polaris 1 1 r 32' " '■ •• 8h. 25ui. 56s. " Ill" 35' Resultiug latitude from moan of observations 55" 32' N. B. — Watch 30m. 59s. slow, from observation at Dunvegau, September 4. Plateau East of Smoky River. September 11. Altair on meridian 86° 26' Resulting latitude 55° 20' Cree Settlement, Sturgeon Lake. Se[)teiuber 14. Sun at noon 77" 4' Resulting latitude 55" 4' Little Smoky River, September 18. Altair on meridian 88° 14' Resulting latitude 54° 27' SourceB of I-a-pe-oo River. Altair on meridian ... 88° 36' Resulting latitude 54° 15' Drift^pile Camp, Athabasca River, September 24. Altair on meridian 88° 53' Resulting latitude St" 7' September 25. Sun at noon 70° 26' Thermometer, 7o' lUiromoter 27-20 Resulting Iptitude 54° 7' 40" 28" 20" 4" 20" 2" 40" 30" 35" 3" 4.5" 39" 37" 37" 58" 40" 56" 45" 50" 25" 4" 35" 59" 25" 33" 39" 60" ii' i. ' Hi BRITISH COLUMBIA AND NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. Olisorvations for time by equal altitudes of sun. Time by watch 8li. 28m. Is. " " " 8h. 33m. 338. " « " 8h. 42m. 358. Time by watch Ih. 19m. 3()s. " " " Ih. 28m. 338. " " " 111. 34m. 78. 161 B Sun u 53° 35' 39" 54° 4K 59" Sun 56° 26' 49" 50° 2(5' 49" 54. 41' 59" ^i 53° 35' 39" Error of watch by mean of observations, 5()m. 148. slov;. Observations on Altair for latitude. Star 88° 52' " 88° 53' " 88° 52' 88° 50' 88° 48' Time by watch 6h. 33m. 37s. " " " 6h- 36m. 278. " " " Oh. 39m. 558. " " " 6h. 43m. 198. " " " 6h. 45m. 198. Resulting latitude by bigliust angle read 54° 7' Resultiiij' latitude liy probable angle deduced by plotting curve . 54° 7' Time by watch Gh. 53m. lOs. Polaris 108° 44' " " " eh. 55m. 31s. " i08°44' " " •' Oh. 57m. 5l8. " 1(18° 4 V 7h. 3m. 128. 108" 51' 59" 24" 19" 14" 24" 29" 31" 54" 49" 4" 34" Resulting latitude by mean of observations 54° 7' 2 Mean latitude adopted for Drift-pile Camp 54° 7' 34" September 29. Observation on sun for time. Time by watch 9h. 32m. 44s. Sun " " " 9h. 34m. 17s. " " " " 9ii. 36m. 208. " " " " 9h. 38m. 7s. " Resulting error of watch » Coal Crop," Athabasca River, October 1. Sun at noon gS" Resulting latitude ; , , . 54° Athaba8(;a River, October 2. Sun at noon 64° Resulting latitude 54° Athabasca River, near Fort Assincboine, October 3. Sun at noon 53" Resulting latitude 54° Athabasca River, October 4. Sun at noon <;2" Resulting latitude 54" Mouth of Lesser Slave River, October 6. Sun at noon 59° Beaultlng latitude 55° 11 53° 0' 29" 53° 17' 19" 53° 41' 19" 54° 1' 4" 49' 20" 11' 40" 50' 25" 12' 45" 51' 55" 18' 54" 48' 35" 26' 54" 50' 30" 10' 25" "^TTI^'i^^-''r^V" ' Wi"7V'H5'iW*fT»"'!W^»^ ■ 1 1 i m ■1 1 it s - 162 b OEOLOGICAIi SURVEY OF CANADA. Lesser Slave River, at Muskeg River, October 9. Sun at noon 57° 16' 40" Resulting latitude 55° 18' 14" Athabasca River, October 13. Sun atnoon 54° 29' 10" Resulting latitude 55" II' 45" Athabasca Landing October 15. Time by watch 71i. 7m. ,'!(>s. « » " 71i. 2'2m. OS. « " " 7h. 24m. 08. « « " 7h. rem. 408. Polaris 110° 36' 10" " 110° 39' 0" " 110° 40' 20" " 110° 41' 55" Resulting latitude by mean ot throe last ubMorvations 64° 43' 34" Observation on Altair for time. Timebywivtch 7h. 35m. 10a. Star 80° 24' 0" " " " 7h.^39m. 30s. " 79° 42' 0" Resulting error of watch 5m. 5s. slow Observation on Jupiter for latitude. Jupiter on meridian 47° 22' 10" Resulting latitude 54° 43' 31" Bridge Lakes, October 17. Observation on Altair, near meriilian for latitude. Time by watch 5h. 59m. 30s. Altair 88° 43' 0" " « " 7h. 8m. 50s. " 83° 43' 50" Resulting latitude Observation on Tolaris for latitude. Time by watch 7h. 17m. 30k. Star 109° 36' 20" >' " " 7h. 22m. 30s. " 109° 40' 30" Resulting latitude by mean of observations. — First approximation 54° 9' 47" Second approximation 54° 9' 58" Observation on Vega for time. Time by watch 7h. 28m. 20s. Star 115° 31' 50" t' " " 7h. 30m. 258. " 114° 45' 30" " " " 7h. 33m. 08. " 114° 8' 25" Error of watch by mean of observations 9m. l7s. slow Sturgeon River, October 18. Observation on Polaris for latitude. Time by watch 7h. 10m. Os. Polaris 108° 57' 0" 7h. 14m. 20s. 7h. 21m. 30s. ,108° 59' 40" .109° 4' 10" Resulting latitude by mean of observations 53° 50' 12" BRITISH COl.UiMBIA AND NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 163 B Observations for LoNGirunE. Dunvegan. {Moon on Meridian.) Latitude 55" 56' 11".5 Date, September 2, 14h. local mean time. Observed double iiltitiide, upper limb. .85" 4' 10" Index error. . - 3' 43" Barometer, 28-95 Thermometer, 35" Resulting declination of moon 8" 50' 52"-5 (North) ( Th. 56m. 6S.5 Resulting longitude of Duuvegau j 119°^' Vl"^ Sir H. Lefroy's longitude for Dunvegan, by two sets of luimi- distances, is 118° 25' That given by comparison of track surveys east and west is nearly intermediate between this and that above determined, and has been adopted on the map. Drifl-Pile Camp. (Moon on Meridian.) Latitude 54° 7' 34" Date, September 25, 8h. 45m., local mean time. Observed altittide, lower limb 39° 43' 10" Inde.\ error - 3' 11" Barometer, 27-20 Thermometer, 40° Resulting declination of moon 14° 55' 50" (South) r 7h. 47m. 138.9 Resulting longitude of Camp -j ~^^ ^g, ^q„ Same place, September 27. Observation of re-appearance of .lupitcr's satellite (1) for longitude: Corrected local time at place lOh. Om. 29s. Resulting longitude 116° 27' 30" The position in longitude of Drift-I'ile Camj) lias been determined by Mr. Mac- Leod's corrected track survey to the instrumentally measured line of the Canadian Pacific Railway, near Dirt I.,ake. It agrees very closely with the first of the observa- tions above given. Limits of Error in Observations for Lomjitude by Moon on Meridian. The change in the moon's declination hourly, is as follows, at the times in question : Dunvegan 12' 40"-3 Drift-Pile Camp 11' 50"-4 Assuming the error of latitude to amount to 5" the error in time may be 258. in either case; coiTcsponding to a total limit of 6' 15" in the value of longitude, or a ±, error of 3' 7" 11 ml If'.'- •- , 104 B QEOLOOICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. LATITTTDES DKTKRMTNET) BY C. HORKTZKY, CANADIAN r'AClFJC RAILWAY SUliVKY, ]cS79. f!anip 5^ miles from upper end of l?ear Lake, July 1 Ti ^^^ 5t»' :18" On Driftwodd (Taclii) River, July 17 55' 45' 50" On Tacla Lake, July 18 55" 33' 37" Lakelet on Tniil to Kire-ran ['ass, .Inly 20 55'M8' 23" Camp near Hudson Bay Post, north end Ualiini; Lake. .Iidy J I 55° 16' 53" August 14 55" 18' 7" August 18 55" 1 8' '>" August 25 55" 18' 34" / Moan 55 ' 1 7' 55" Variation, 28' E. Forks of Skeeiia, July 25 55° 1 3' 55" July 2(! 55' 14' 47" July 28, sun at noon, double alt., lower linili lo(i' 55' 30". (Not worked.) Variation, 28' E. Nuelkitkwa River, Station 51, August 27 55" 30' 9" Variation, 28" E. Neelkitkwa River, Stiition 85, August 28 55" 33' 30" Neelkiikwa River, Station 1 27, August .SO 55" 39' 20" Haifa niilu soutii of suuiuiit of Mount Horet/Jsy, August 21 55' 37' 12" Five hundred foot 8i)uth of summit of Mount lloretzky. August 31 . . 55" 38' 3" Neelkitkwa River, Station 155, September 1 55" 42' 3" Camp near Hummit of Kotsinc I'ass, Sei)temlier 3 55" 45^' 44" Variatiiui, 28" E. Point slightly south (mag.) from Kotsino River, and about five miles from summit of I'ass, September 4 55" 47-' 7" At crossing of Kotsine-Sitlika, September 5 55" 4(i' 37" Driftwood River, near mouth, September (! 55" 42' 15" Taela Landing, St.ition 1, Setpember 7 55" 3(1' 18" Lake TiRla, Station 12, September S 55^ 40' 2" Buekley House, September 10 55 ' 4 1 ' 1 1" Summit Camp, Fall Tlivor, September 1 3 (doubtful) 55" 38' 20" " Old Hogem,'' September 15 55" 45' 33" Variation, 27" E. Germansen Town, September 19 55" 44' 38" On Omeniea River, Sei)tember 20 55" 18' 4'J" On Omeniea River, Station (54 55" 47' 2(i" On Omeniea River, Station 103 55" 45' 18" Fall River Valley, September 23 55 ' 44' 27" Taela Landing, Station 1, September 25 55" 35' 40" On Middle River, Station 7(), September 30 54" 59' 37" On Trembleur Lake, October 1 54" 51' 51" Variation, 29" E. N.B. — From this point of observation Pope's Cradle, Stuart Lake bears S. 77" E» •(mag.) ^^' BRITISH COLUMBIA AND NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 165 B LATITUDES DETERMINED BY A. WEBSTER, OF THE GEO- LOGICAL SURVKY OF CANADA, IN BRITISH COLUMBIA AND TIII<] NORTH- WEST TERRITORY, 1875. Qiiesnel-Blackwator Triiii. oast of Ileikyelthtie Lake, July 7 5:!' C 2" Blackwater, Lower Canon, .Mine 10 r,;}^ 17/ g" Telegrai)h Trail, north of Blackwator Uiver. June 12 5;r Xl' 16" Telegraph Trail, north of Eulatazeia Lake, June 14 r>3" 49' 17" Camj) at Nechacco Crossing, June 1 G 54' j / 27" 'J'rail Kouth-eaHt of J^tnart Lake, June 1 'J 54 ■ 2:V 2;!" Fort St. James, June 21 .'54" 20' 44" Camp near outlet of Long Luke, June 27 54" 50' 40" Fort McLeod, June 30 55' (,/ 7" Parsnip llivcr, July 7 55^ 22' 14" Parsnip River, July « 55 ■ 40/ 04'/ Junction of Finlay and Parsnip liivers, .Inly i) 55 ' 59' ;!6" Peace River, July 10 5(5" 2' 35" Peace River, .luly 13 55' 58' 33" Peace River, July 15 50' 0' 22" Pence River, .luly 17 50 - 2' 7" Hudson's Hoi)e, July 23 5(j' 2' 14" Fort St. John, July I'.o r,gj g/ 59" Pine River, August 1 5g» 4' 20" Pin River (Indian Canij)), August .'!.... 55^ 40' 20" Dun vegan, August 13 55' 55' 53" On Smoky Hiver, August 20 55 55' 47" Smoky River I'ost, August 22 50 1 0' 46" Kerry's Lake (much vibration), October 3 54' 411' 20" Crooked River. October i 54' 23' 4" Fort George, October 10 53^ 54' 29" i*«ii ipi,jfj.i^w<.ni)p!i«iifiiNinfMiii i>; E i ■if ! NOTE ON THE DISTRIBUTION OF SOME OF THE MORE IMPORTANT TREES OF BRITISH COLUMBIA* BY GEORGE M. DAWSON. D.S., A.R.S.M., P.G.S. The following notes iiiul map are presented an n contribution to- wards our knowledge of the range of some of the trees of British Columbia, based on notes and observations made by myself while engaged in the work of the Geological Survey from 1875 to 1879. I am indebted to Mr. H. J. Cambie of the Canadian Pacific Railway for notes on the extension of certain trees from the coast up the valleys of the Homathco and Dean or Salmon Rivers. In a few cases I have availed myself of facts published in Prof Macoun's reports, and J am also indebted to Prof. Macoun for valuable notes on the first edition of this article. I have also to thank Dr. Kngelmann for information furnished in regard to the specific relations of specimens collected in various parts of the province. Since the publication of the first edition of the.so notes in the Cana- dian Naturalist, Prof C. S. Sargent, Dr. Engelmann and Prof. Parry, have together visited a portion of the southern j)art of British Columbia., for the purpose of extending their observations on the distribution of forest trees. I am indebted to Prof. Sargent for several additional facts now incorporated in these jiagea. The lines on the map have also been slightly n)odified in some respects since the publication of the first edition. British Columbia forming a portion of the Cordillera region o^ f-he^^ ^^^^jj^jg^j. west coast of America, with diversified and bold physical features, the^''''"bu'|on on lines indicating the geographical range of the various species of plants do not assume in it the broad rounded forms found in less mountainous districts. The peculiarities in distribution, while adding interest to the study, renders an intimate knowletige of the topography of the country an essential prerequisite to its prosecution. As large tracts of the province are as yet geographically unknown owing to their remote- ness and singular impenetrability, we are far from possessing complete information on the distribution of many of even the more important species. It is not intended to give a description of the orography of the pi'o- vince, though as above indicated this is closely connected with the extension of the various species of plants. The following general * These notes were first printed in the Canadian Nuturiilist, Vol. IX., No. i», but have since been oorreoted iu some particulars and added to. lij. I'' 1C8B GEOLOaiCAL SURVEY OF CANADA, notanii'iil re Kiuiia. statement mado by mo in a note on agriculture and etock raising and extent of cultivable land in tbe province,* may, witli little alteration, be repeated bore, as outlining tho conditions to bo found witbin its area : — Tbe Hora of Britisb Columbia as a wbole may be broadly divided into four groups, indicating as many varieties of climate, wbich may be named as follows: tbe West Cons f, tho Western filter ior, the Cana- dian, and tbe Arctic. Tbe first, witb an equable cilmate and beavy rain- fall, is cbaracterized by a correspondent luxuriance of vegetation, and especially of forest growtb. Tbis region is tbat west of tbe Coast llango, and is well marked by tbe peculiarity of its plants. In a few spots only — and tbese depending on tbe ilryness of several of tbe summer montbs owing to local circumstances — does a scanty representation of tbodrougbt-loving flora of tbe Califoranian coast occur. The second is tbat of the soulbern ])art of tbe interior plateau of tbe province, and presents as its most striking feature a tendency to resemble in its flora tbe interior basin of Utab and Nevada to tbe soutb and tbe drier plains east of tho Rocky Mountains. It may be said to extend northward to about the 51st parallel, while isolated patches of a somewhat similar flora occur on warm bill-sides and tbe noi-tbern banks of rivers to beyond the Blackwater. In the northern part of tbe interior of the province, just such an assemblage of ])lants is found as may be seen in many jiarts of eastern Canada, though mingled with unfamiliar strag- glers. This flora aj)pears to run completely across the continent north of the great plains, and characterizes a region with moderately heavy rainfall, sumni". not excessivel}' warm, and cold winters. Tbe arctic or alpine flora is that of tbe higher summits of the Coast, Selkirk, Rocky and other mountain ranges, where snow lies late in tbe summer. Here plants lurk wbich deploy on tbe low grounds only on the shores of Hudson Ba}^ the Icy Sea and Bebring's Strait. In the following notes the Conifero) are placed first, jus having the greatest importance both from an economic point of view, and from tbe vast extent of country wbich they cover almost to the exclusion of other trees. Douglas spruce Psexulotsuga Douglam, Lindl. Douglas spruce, Douglas fir, some- times commercially named 'Oregon pine.' — This fs the most iTiiportant timber tree of British Columbia, and tbe only one of which the wood has 3'et become an article of exjwrt on a large scale. It is found in all parts of Vancouver Island witb tbe exception of tbe exposed western coast, but does not occur in the Queen Charlotte Islands or coast archi- pelago to tbe north of Vancoiiver. On the mainland, near the 49th parallel, it extends from the sea to the Rocky Mountains, growing at a Arrangement. • Canadian Pacific Railway Report) 1877. Appendix S- BRITISH COLUMBIA AND NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 1G9B height of 6000 feot in a stunted form, and occurring on Iho oaslerii HlopoB of the Rocky MountainH on tho 4i)th parallel, and alwo accord- ing to Prof. Macoun, about tho nioutli of KananaHkis and up tho valley of Bow River. In the dry Houthern portion of the interior of Britinh Columbia it in confined to the higher uplands between the various river valleys. Northward it comes down to the general level of the country. It does not extend into the mountainous and compar- atively humid region of Cariboo, and is j)robably id)sent from the higher portions of tho Selkirk and (lold flanges generally. Its northern line is singularly ii'regular. It is found about Fort (Jcorge, and north- eastward as far as McLcod's Lake, but does not occur on the Parsnip. Jt extends about half-way up Tacla Lake, and on Babine Lake to tho bend or knee. A few specimens occui- on tiie Skcena River. It is common about Krasei- and Prangois Lakes. It is found from the Fraser to the coast mountains on the line of the Chilcotin and its tributaries, and occurs on the Nazco and up the Black water to the mouth of the Iscultaesli, but is absent from an extensive tract of country bounded by the last-named localities to the south and east, and extending north- ward to Franyois Lake. It occurs abundantly on the coast of the mainland as fai- north as the north end of Vancouver Island, but be3'ond that point is found only on the shores of tho iidets at some distance from the sea. It is found on the upper part of Dean Inlet and on the Salmon River which runs into it, but about forty-five miles from the salt water becomes small and stunted, and as above stated, is not seen in that part of the interior lying to the eastward. The extent of its range to the north-eastward, in the Rocky Mountain Lumber. Range, though broad I >^ indicated on the map, is still uncertain. The best grown specimens are found near the coast in proximity to the waters of the many bays and inlets which indent it. Here the tree frequently surpasses eight feet in diameter, at a considerable height above the ground, and reaches a height of from 300 to over 300 feet, forming prodigious and dark foi-ests. The wood varies considerably in appearance and strength according to its locality of growth and other circumstances. It is admirably adaptetl tor all ordinary purposes of construction, and of late has obtained favourable notice in ship-build- ing, remaining sound in water for a long time. For spars and masts it is unsurpassed both as to strength, straightness and length. Masts for export are usually hewa to octagonal shape from 20 to 32 inches in diameter and GO to 120 feet in length. On special orders the}- have been shipped as large as 12 inches in diametei- by 120 feet long. Yards are generally hewn out from 12 to 24 inches in diameter and 50 to 120 feet long. Masts and spars are generally sent to Great Britain; other forms IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) U£m |25 ^ m 12.2 1 lil 1112.0 I L25 ii.4 1.6 V v: '/ >!S^ 6^ '^ £.