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32X

BI^

GUI

CHAR

Tin-:

BRITISH AMERICAN NAVIGATOR;

>"» -I

-■■V, -

SAILING DIRECTORY

FOR THE ISLAND AND BANKS OF

NEWFOUNDLAND,

THE

GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE,

Breton Ssilanlr,

NOVA SCOTIA, THE RAY OF FUNDY,

AND THE COASTS THENCE TO THE RIVEll PENOBSCOT, &c.

■M

^ I

OniOINALLY COMPOSED

By JOHN PURDY, Hydrographer;

AND COMPLETED, FROM A GREAT • VARIETY OV DOCUMENTS, PUHUC AND PRIVATE,

By ALEX. G. FINDLAY. ^

LONDON:
PRINTED FOR R. H. LAURIE,

CHAKT-SELLER TO THE ADMIRALTY, THE HON. CORPORATION OF TRINITY-HOUSE, kc

No. 53, FLEET STREET.

1843.

i
i

■A

i>_ "■ •'*•.'?•>. : ->'t ^\^jr'

;:iii2£aa£; .■i.":. rriar- r._.

187056

ADVERTISEMENT.

The following Charts will be found particularly adapted to this Work, and are
distinguished by the seal, as in the title-page : —

1. A GENERAL CHART of the ATLANTIC OCEAN, according to the Observa-
lions, Surveys, and Determinations, of the most eminent Navigators, British and Foreign;
from a Combination of which the whole has been deduced, by John Purdy. With parti-
cular Plans of the Roadstead of Angra, Terceira, Ponta-Delgada, St. Michael's, of the
Channel between Fayal and Pico, Santa-Cruz to Funchal, &c. On four large sheets.
With additions to the present time. \6s.

',• The new Chart of the Atlantic may be had in two parts, one containing the northern and the
other the southern sheets ; being a form extremely convenient for use at sea.

2. The ATLANTIC, or WESTERN OCEAN, with Hudson's Bay and other adjacent
Seas ; including the Coasts of Europe, Africa, and America, from sixty-five degrees of
North Latitude to the Equator ; but without the particular Plans above mentioned.
Reduced, chiejly, from the larger Charts by John Purdy, and beautifully engraved on two
large sheets. 8s.

3. A Chart of the ISLAND and BANKS of NEWFOUNDLAND, and the coasts
between Belle Isle and Boston, Cape Cod, (Sec. ; including the Gulf and River of
St. Lawrence, Nova Scotia, and the Bay of Fundy : compiled from recent surveys by
British and French officers, and the positions adjusted from numerous observations. Con-
structed by John Purdy, and drawn by A. G. Findlay. With a new Sailing Directory. 12s,

4. GULF of St. LAWRENCE.— Trtc Gulf of St. Lawrence and Breton Island, on a
large scale. From actual Surveys and Astronomic Observations. With particular I'lans
of the Gut of Canso, Louisbourg Harbour, Sydney or Spanish River, Ristigouche Har-
bour, the Mingan Isles, &c. Two Sheets, 12s.

5. The RIVER of St. LAWRENCE, from Anticosti to Montreal, constructed on
the Plan of the former Chart, made under the Orders of Admiral Sir Chas. Saunders, K.B.
and composed from the late Surveys, with adjusted Longitudes, &c. Three large sheets,
1842, 12s.

6. NOVA SCOTIA.— Nora Scotia, with a Part of Breton Island; including the Bay
of Fundy, and South Coast of New Brunswick ; with Plans of the Harbours of Halifax,
Shelburne, Liverpool, &c. Improved Edition, 8$.

7. UNITED STATES.—^ large General Chart of the American Coast, from Halifax,
in Nova Scotia, to Philadelphia ; with Plans of the following Harbours, viz. Halifax,
St. John's, New Brunswick, Portland, Portsmouth, Newbury-port, Annisquam, Boston,
Newport, or Rhode Island, and New York, 10s. 6d

For Sailing Directions, &c., see page xxvi.

tit
sen

ERRATA.

Page 78, line 20, for Fork read Forteau.

123, 7 from bottom, the latitude of Quebec is 46° 48' 9", should be lat. 46° 49' 8"

[lEuteittl nt ^tationci'i^' %}a\l]

'^••p..

A !) D II C S S.

The following woik was at first intended to have been piiblislied under tlie
title of the " Cabotian Navigatoii,"* and to form the first volume of a
series which comprehends a description of the Atlantic seaboard of the Ameri-
cixn continent, by the late Mr. Joiix Puimv, whose works will remain an
honourable and lasting memorial of the zeal and talent which, for upwards of
forty years, were so successfully and usefully exerted in advancint^ the science
of Hydrography.

But, as the attempt would be futile to impose a name upon a territory which
has no general designation, however desirable it would be to give the name of
Carot to the country that he made known to modern times, the title of the
" British American Navigator" has been adopted.

Three editions of a previous work on the same subject, under the title of the
" Newfoundland Directory," have been honoured with the public approbation;
but, from the more complete knowledge we now possess of those regions, it
was found necessary to remodel the whole of it, and to abandon a title which
would be manifestly inapplicable to its entire contents.

The former work was composed from the labours of Captain James Cook,
the circumnavigator, whose survey of the western coasts of Newfoundland is
still the best we have; from Messrs. Holland, Bouchette, Captain Bayfield, &C.
in the Gulf and River of St. Lawrence ; from Messrs. Lock wood, Des Barres,
and others, on the coasts of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, &c. ; and these, as
far as they were available, are retained in the present work ; but, from the great
amount of information we have latterly acquired of these regions, it will be
found that the present volume is far more complete than its predecessors.

For the eastern coasts of Newfoundland, we have availed ourselves of the
works of Captain F. Bullock, W. Bullock, and G. Holbrook, the Admiralty
surveyors, which form a complete guide to this singular and rugged coast. In
the description and directions for the N.E. portion, we have included the sub-

* See Vol. I. page 2!), of "Newfoundland in 1842," by Sir Ilicliaid Heniy Bonnycastle; an
interesting work, containing a complete history and description of the island of Newfoundland.

V ADDRESS.

stance of the Instructions given by M, Ch. Lavaud, of the French marine,
which will be found of great service ; while on the chart accompanying the
present work is given the survey of the Banks of Newfoundland by the same
officer, which delineates minutely these vast submarine elevations, and the
chart of which is the best description that can be given.

The valuable surveys of Capt. Henry Wolsey Bayfield, R.N., F.R.S. (which
are still in progress) in the River and Gulf of St. Lawrence, and the coast of
Labrador, have given an entirely new feature to our knowledge of that part of
our possessions ; and the complete delineation and ample directions which we
now have of the northern shore of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, will divest this
desolate and inhospitable region of many of the dangers which were formerly
so much dreaded, and it will be seen that it can now be navigated with com-
parative safety.

To Lieut. Charles Hare, R.N., Mr. Jeffery, M.R.N. , Mr. E. Dunsterville,
and other gentlemen, we have to express our thanks for many valuable commu-
nications, which are embodied in the work ; and, in laying it before the public,
we do it with a hope that it will be found worthy of their attention. At the
same time, we earnestly solicit communications for its future improvement :
these, as being original and authentic, are doubly valuable, as adding to our
knowledge, and as being beneficial to the public service.

A, G. F.

October, 1843.

CONTENTS.

PAUb

GENERAL TABLE of the Positions, or of Latitudes and Longi-
tudes of Places described, with the pages in which their respective
Descriptions may be found •.. x

NOTES referred to in the preceding Table, showing the Authorities,

&c., including the Variations of the Compass xvi

PHARONOLOGY, &c xxi

PART L

NEWFOUNDLAND, &c.

L— Of the Winds, Currents, Ices, and Passages to Newfoundland, Nova
Scotia, New Brunswick, &c %

Winds, 1 ; Phenomena westward of Newfoundland, 2 ; Currents, &c., 4 ;
Wrecks in St. Shot's Bay, Comus, llarpooner, and H.M.S. Drake, 6 ;
Spence and Marslial Macdonald, 7 ; Passages from England, in the Spring,
8; in the Fall', 9; Icebercis and Tees, 11 ; Wrecks of the Harvest Home,
Lady of the Lake, President, William Rrown, &c., 11, 12; Preservation of
Life at Sea, 13 ; General Directions for the Gulf, 13.

n. — The Island and Banks of Newfoundland

General Remarks and Description of Newfoundland, 14; the City of St. John,
15; Conception Bay, 16; The Banks of Newfoundland, 16; Virgin
Rocks, 18.

EASTERN AND NORTHERN COASTS OF NEWFOUNDLAND.

I. — Cape Spear and St. John's Harbour to Cape St. Francis 19

Cape Spear and Lighthouse, 19 ; Harbour of St. John, and Directions, 19;
St. John's to Conception Bay, 20 ; Black Head to Cape St. Francis, 20.

IT. — Conception Bay, between Cape St. Fra:)2is and Bacalieu Island.. 20

Conception Bay, 20; Bay Verde, 21; Carbomo ••:;, 21; Harbour Grace, 21 ;
Bay Robert, 22 ; Brigus, 23 ; Collier Bay and Harbour Main, 23.

III. — Trinity Bay, between Bacalieu and Cape Bonavista .' 9.3

Trinity Bay, 23 ; Old Perlican, 23 ; New Perlican, 23 ; Port Bonaventure,
24; Trinity Harbour, 24; Rugged Harbour, 25; Cataliua Harbour, 25 j
Bird Islands, 26.

IIII. — Bonavista Bay, between Cape Bonavista and Cape Freels 26

Cape Bonavista, 26 ; Bonavista Harbour, 27 ; Bonavista Bay, 27 ; Blackhead
Bay, 27; Great Chance Harbour, <i7; Broad Coves and Barrow Harbour,
29; Damnable Harbour, 29; Morris Cove, 29 ; Gooseberry Isles, &c., 30;
New Harbour, 31 ; Northwest Arm, 31 ; Greenspond, 31.

V. — The N.E. Coast from Cape Freels to Cape St. John, including the

Bay of Notre Dame and Archipelago of Exploits 32

Cape Freels, 32 ; Funk Island and Brenton Rock, 32 ; Wadham Islands, 33 ;
Fogo Island, 33 ; Bay of Notre Dame, 34 ; Toulinguet or Twillingate, 34 ;
Morton's, Triton, arid Nipper's Harbours, 35.

CONTEXTS.

PAor.

VI. — The Eastern Coast and Wliite Bay, from Cape St. John to Cape
Norman • 36

Cape St. John, 36; La Scio Harbour, 36; Harbour Round and Pacquet
Harbour, 30 ; St. Harhe or Horse Islands, 37 ; Minq's IiJul)t and Fleur-de-lis
Harbour, y? ; White Hay, 3(3 ; Lobster Harbour, 38 ; Cony Arm Head, 39 ;
Little Harbour Deep, 39 ; Fourclie and Hooping Harbours, 40; Canada
Hiiy, 40 ; Canada Harbour, 41 : Hillier's and Conclie Harbours, 41 ; Cape
l^oiifie, 41 ; lielle Isle Sotitb and (Jroais Island, 42 ; Croc Harbour, 42 ;
St. Julien Harbour, 43; The Ilettes, 44; Le Four Harbour, 44; Fishol
Isles, 44; Hare Bay, 45; Crcmadl^re Harbour, 46; St. Anthony, 46;
Drehats and St. Lunaire Bay, 46 ; Griguet Harbours, 47 ; KirpoD or
Quirpon, 48 ; Cape Norman, 49.

THE SOUTHERN COASTS OF NEWFOUNDLAND.

I. — The S.E. Coast from St. John's Harbour to Cape Race 49

Bay of Bulls and Witless Bay, 49 ; Cape Broyle, 50 ; Aquafort and Fer-
mowes, 50.

n. — The Coast of Avalon, from Cape Race to Placentia Bay, including
Trepassey, St. Mary's Bay, and Placentia Harbour 51

Trepassey Harbour, 51 ; St. Shot's Bay, 51 ; St. Mary's Bay, &c., 51 ; Cape
St. Mary, 52; Placentia Bay and Harbour, 53 ; Directions, by Mr. Owen,
54; Bearings and Distances in Placentia Bay, 55.

HI. — The Northern portion of the Bay of Placentia, and Coast thence
to Cape Chapeau Rouge /3.5

Red and Long Islands, 55 ; Come by Chance, 56 ; Paradise Sound, 57 ;
Mortier Bay, 58 ; Burin Harbours, 59 ; St. Lawrence Harbours, 59.

IV. — The Coast westward of Cape Chapeau Rouge, with the Islands of
St. Pierre and Miquelon 59

Ferryland Head, 59 ; St. Pierre Island, CO ; Langley or Little Miquelon, 61 ;
Miquelon, CI.

V. — Fortune Bay, and the Coast westward to the Burgeo Isles til

Fortune Bay, &c., 61 ; Point May to Cape Mille, 62; Harbour la Coute and
Belle Harbour, 63 ; Bande de I'Arier Bay, 63 ; Harbour Briton, 64; Con-
naigre Bay, 64 ; Hermitage Bay, 65 ; Bay of Despair, 65 ; Cape la Uune,
66 ; Ramea, 67 ; White Bear Bay, 67.

VI. — The South Coast, from the Burgeo Islands to Cape Ray 07

The Burgeo Isles, 67; Connoire Bay, 68; La Poile Bay, 69; Port :;ux
Basque, 70; Cape Ray, description and appearance of, 71.

THE WESTERN COAST OF NEWFOUNDLAND,

FROM CAPE RAY TO CAPE NORMAN.

St. George's Bay, 72 ; Port au Port, 72 ; Bay of Islands, 73 ; Bonne Bay, 74 ;
Cow Head, 75 ; Ingornachoix Bay, 75 ; Ilawkes Harbour, 75 ; Point
Rich, 75; Bay of St. John, 76; New and Old Ferolle, 76; Bay of St.
Genevieve, 77 ; Bay of St. Barbe, 77.

The Strait of Belle Isle and the Coast of Labrador, between Cape St.

Lewis and Forteau Point 7S

General Remarks on the Strait, 78 ; Belle Isle, 79 ; St. Lewis Sound, 79 ;
Niger Sound, 80; Chateau Bay, 81 ; York Point, 8 1 ; Red Bay, 81; Black
Bay, 82; Forteau Bay, 82.

CONTENTS.

VII

PA or.

(il

f)7

PAOE

PART IL

THE GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE.

. — General Phenomena — Winds, Weather, Currents, Ices, &c 83

Winds, 01); Fogs, 83 ; Mirage, note, 84 ; Currents, 84 ; Ices, 85.

II. — ^The Island of St. Paul, Magdalen Isles, and Anticosti Bfi

St. Paul, 80; Magdalen Islands, 87; Amlierst Island, 87 ; F.nlry Island, iScc.
88 ; Bird Islets, 80 ; The Island of Anticosti, 89 ; East Cape, 90 ; West
Capo and Ellis Hay, 90.

Ill, — The Northern Shore of the Gulf, from Forteau Point to Cape
Whittle 91

General Remarks, 91 ; Greenly Island, 92; Bradore Harbour, 92; IJradore
Bay, 93; Bonne Esperance Harbour, 93; Esquimaux Hay, River, and
Islands, 94 ; Cunibtrlatid Harbour, 95 ; Great Mecattina Island, and
INlccattina Harbour, 96; Hare Harbour, 97; Wataglieistic Island, 97;
Wapitagun Harbour, 08 ; Cape Wliittle, 99.

IV. — The Northern Shore of the Gulf, between Cape Whittle and Cape

de Monts, including the Mingan Islatids 99

General Remarks, 99 ; Coacoaclio Bay, 99 ; Musquarro River, II. B. Co.'s
post, 100; Kegashka Bay, 100; Natashquan Point and River, 101; the
Mingaii Inlands — General Remarks, 102 ; St. Genevieve Island and Har-
bour, 102 ; Retcliewun Harbour, 103 ; Clearwater Point, 103 ; Esquimaux
Island and Harbour, 103; Mingan Island, 104; Mingan Harbour, 105;
River St. John, 100; Manitou River, 106; River Moisic, 107; Seven
Islands' Bay, 107 ; Cawee Islands, 108 ; Trinity Bay, 109 ; Point de Monts
Lighthouse, 109.

V, — The South Shore of the Entrance to the River, from Cape Rosier to

Cape Chatte , 109

Cape Rosier, 109; Magdalen River and St. Anne, 110 ; Cape Chatte, 110.

VI. — General Description of the River 110

The North Shore, from Cape de Monts to the Saguenay River. ..... Ill

St. Nicholas Harbour, 111; Manicougan Bay and Shoals, 112; Bay of
Outarde, 112; Jeremie and Port Neuf, 112 ; The Saguenay River, 113.

The South Shore, between Cape Chatte and Green Island 113

Matane River, 113; Grand Metis, 114; Barnaby Island, 114; Isle Bic,115;
Green Island and Lighthouse, 115.

The Description of the River continued.

Red Island and Reef. 116; Murray Bay, 116; White Island, 117; Hare
Island and Banks, 117 ; Barrett Ledge, 117; The Pilgrims, 118 ; Kamour-
asca, 118: Isle aux Coudres, 119 ; The South Traverse, 119; The Pillars,
120; Goose Island, 120; The Bayfield Isles, 120; The Middle Channel
and North Chaimel, 121; St. Paul's Bay, 122; Burnt Cape Ledge, &c.,
122 ; The Island of Orleans, 123 ; Quebec, 123 ; Montreal, 123.

Tides in the River of St. Lawrence 124 to ICG

Directions for sailing up the River, from Anticosti to Quebec 126

Remarks on the Currents, W^nds, &c,, 126 ; On the Aberration of the Compass,
(72o^e), 127 ; General Courses, &c., between Cape Chatte and Isle Bic, 129 ;
Isle Bic to Green Island, 130; Green Islpnd to the Brandy Pots, 132;

vill CONTRNTS.

I'AOI

Orandy Pots to the South Traverse and floose Island, 132; The Bouth
Trnvcrsio, 133; The Piliors or Pillais to Crane Island, J34; Crane Island
to Point St. Vallier, 134 ; St. Vallier to Qn ''ec, 135.

Geiifiral Description of the River of St. Lawrence, downward, from
Montreal to Quebec, &c 135

Island of Montreal, 136 ; William Hpnry and Three Rivers, 136.

Rates of Pilotage for the River of St. Lawrence, 1841 137

From and to Quebec and BIc, 137 ; Regulations of the Pilotage above Die to
Quebec, 137; Rales above the Harbour of Quebec, 137.

Rates chari^ed for Towing Vessels by the Steamers from Quebec to
Montreal, 1841 1 38

I ■

PART III

WESTERN COASTS OF THE GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE, BRETON

ISLAND, &c.

I. — The Eastern Coast of New Brunswick, &c 1 39

Cape Gaspe and Gasp^- Hay, 139; Mai Ray, 141; Cape Despair, 142;
Chaleur Bay, 142; Uistigouche, 143; Miramichi liay, &c., 143; Richi-
bucto, 144.

The Northern Coasts of Nova Scotia, &c 144

Ramshep, Caribou, fkc, 145; Pictou, 146; Merigomish, Antigonish, 148;
The Gut of Canso, 148 ; Inhabitant Bay, 150 ; Tides, 151.

II. — Prince Edward Island 151

General Description, 151 ; Cardigan Bay, 151 ; Hillsborough Bay, 152 ; Char-
lotte Town, 152; Richmond Bay and Holland Harbour, 153; Tides, 154.

III.— Breton Island, with Chedabucto Bay 15

General Description, 154; Jest ico, or Port Hood, 155; St, Anne's Harbour,
155; Grand Bras d'Or, and Directions, 156; Sydney Harbour, 157; Scatari
Island, 1o8; Louisbourg and Arachat, 158; Chedabucto Bay and Mitford
Haven, 159.

PART IV.

THE SOUTHERN COAST OF NOVA SCOTIA, THE BAY OF

FUNDY, &c.

I. — Chedabucto Bay to Halifax Harbour 160

Cape Canso, and Cranberry Island Lighthouse, 160; Raspberry Harbour,
160; Torbay and Country Harbour, 161 ; St. Mary's River, 162: Liscomb
Harbour, 162; Bay of Islands, 163; Beaver and Sheet Harbours, 163;
Spry or Taylor's Harbour, 163: Dean, Tangier, and Ship Harbours, 164;
Jedore Harbour, 164.

II. — Sable Island, and Banks of Nova Scotia 165

Sable Island, Description and Notices, 165 166,167; Directions, 169; The
Nova Scotia Banks, 170.

CONTENTS.

PAOT

1th

• •

135

1 t

137

1 •

138

RETON

,. 139

-yv

•

144

l>AOC

III.— Halifax Harbour, and the Coast thoncc westward, to Cape ftabio .. 170

General Description, 170; Halifax Harbour and Halifax, 171 ; Directions for
the Harbour, 173; (leneral remarks on the Coast westward, 175; Hearings
and Distances of Places between Halifax and Cape Sable, 8cc., 175;
S irnbro' Harbour, 8cc., 17fi; Margaret's Hay, 177; Malione Hay, 17H;
Malaguash or Lunenburg Harbour, 17R; ('ape lo llavr, 17'.) ; Port Med-
way, 179; Liverpool Hay, 180; Port Mouton, 100; Sholburnc Harbour,
181; Negro Harbour, IWi; Harrinjjton Hay, 183; Capo Sable, 183;
Hriisil Rock, 183.

IV. — The Bay of Fundy, and the Coasts between Cape Sable and

Passamaquoddy Bay 184

General (Cautions, Tides, &c., 1B4 ; Seal Island, Mud Isles, and Tusket Isles,
1B5; Cape Fourchu, 186; Hrycr's Island, 18(1 ; Long Island, and the May
of St. Mary, 187 ; May of Fundy, continued, 187; Annapolis, 108 ; Masin
of Mines, 188; ('hignocto Hay, lO'J ; North Coast of the Hay of Fundy,
189; ()uako Ledge and Lighthouse, 180; St. John's, New Hrunswick, 190;
Directions, by Mr. Backhouse, 191 ; Remarks on St. John's, by Mr. Lock-
wood and Capt. Napier, 191; Port Signals, 192; Point Lepreau, 193;
Grand Manan, &c., 193; Machias Seal Isles, 195; Passamacjuoddy Hay,
195; Qnofldy Head, 196 ; St. Andrew's and Ftang Harbour, 196 ; Heaver
Harbour, Tides, 197 ; Hearincs and Distances of Places in tlie Hay of Fundy,
197; General Remarks and Directions for the Hay of Fundy, 190.

V. — The Coasts of the United States, from Passamaquoddy to the
Penobscot River 199

Mount Desert Rock, 199; Machias Bay, 199 ; Machias to Gouldsboro', 200;
Moospeck Head I.i'jthl, Dyer's Hay. and Pleasant Hay, 200; Penobscot Bay
and River, 201 ; (^astinc, tkc, 202.

l.'JI

•I

. 160

. 165

GENERAL TABLE of the POSITIONS, on of the
Latitudes and Longitudes, of the Principal Points
AND Places described hereafter ; with the Pages
ON which the respective Descriptions may be found.

*^* Tlie Longitudes are from the raeridi.jn of Greenwich. Tiie Figures in Brackeis,
thus, [4], refer to the Notes subjoined to tiie Table.

i) i

! i

NEWFOUNDLAND, commencing wrui

THE S.E. Coast. '

LATITUDE N. LONCilTUnE W. PAGES.

Cape Speau ; Light rev. 27ofU one m.

St. JOHN'S; South Head; Light F. [1]

Cape St. Francis

Harbour Grace ; Light at entrance, F. • > •

Cuiboniere

Bacalieu ; North point of [2]

Bonaventure Head

Trinity Harbour ; entrance

Horsechops

Catalina ; South Head

North Head « • •

Bonavista Gull Island [3]

Young HaiTy Reef • • •

Bonavista Bay ; Southern Head

Western Head

Little Denier Isle •

Gieat Black Island ; centre

Malone's Ledge

Offer Gooseberry Island , . . . .

Shoe Cove Point

Fools' Isle, off the N.W. Ami

Stinking Islands

Charge Rock (6 feet)

Cape Freels ; Cape Ridge [4]

I'reel's Gull Island

Outer Cat Island

Deadman's Point

Rugged Point

Brenton Rock • • • •

Funk Island ; East point

Stark's Breakers •

Durell's Lodge, or Snap Rock (10 feet)
Inspector Rock (sometimes breaks) • • •

Ireland Rock (always breaks)

Cape Fogo ; S.E. extremity

Offer (Outer) Wadham Isle; centre • • •
Fogo Harbour ; Eastern islet [5] ...

" 1

19, 49

•2

3(5

50 '

15, 19

21, 22

4()

24, 25

28, 29

5.:;

31, 32

33, 34

■els'

V-

POSITIONS OF PLACES.

)F THE

Points
Pages

QND.

Hrackets,

P.U

JKS.

h),

lo,

21,

24,

2(5

2(J

28,

31,

Change Isles; N.E. islet
Bacalieu Isle ; centre • • -

• ••••*

Bay or Notre Dame.

Toulingnet Harbour; Northern entrance

Morton Harbour ; entrance

Fortune Harbour; N.W. point

Triton Harbour ; entrance

Cutwell Harbour ; East point

Nipper's Isles ; S.E. point

Bisliop's Rock

St. John's Gull Isle

Promontory of St. John [(>]

South Bill

Middle Cape

North Bill

La Scie Harbour ; entrance

Pacquet Harbour ; entrance

St. Barbe, or Horse Isles ; S.E. point

Fleur-de-Lis Harbour; East point

Partridfje Point

Coney Ann Head ■

Cat Head ; extremity .

Little Harbour Deep Head •

Orang-e Bay ; entrance •

Fourche Harliour ; entrance ■

Hooping or Siuis-Fond Harbour; entrance •■

Canada or Canaiy Bay ; entrance •

Rouge Isle ; North point

Southern Belle Isle ; N.E. point •

Groais or Groix Isle ; N.E. point

Croc or Croque 1 1 arbour ; entrancj

Fishot Isles ; Northern isle ■

IIow Harbour; entn.nce, W. point

Goose Cape ; S.E. point •

Cricmaillere Harbour; entrance, E. point

Cape St. Anthony ■

Brbhat or Braha Shoal {6 feci)

Needles' Rocks, near Braha ■

White Cape, near St. Lunaire

Griguet Bay ; East point

Cape Bauld

Cape Norman [7]

LATITUDE N. LONGITUDE W.

The SE. Coast of Newfoundland, from St
John's Harbour to Cape Rack, and
Southern Coasts, thence to Cape Ray.

St. John's ; South Head, Li(/ht F.

Cape Spear ; Liaht rev. 275 fl. one m,

Bull Head '-

Cape Broyle ; North point •

Cape Baliard

Cape Race .,

Southern Coast.

Cape Pine [8]

Cape St. Mary

Placentia Harbour

4:) 41-

49 41

49
49
49
49
49
49

49
49
49
49
49
50
50
50
49
50
50
50
50
50
50
50
50
50
51
51
51
51
51
51
51
51
51
51
51
51

47
47
47
A^^
46

46
46
47

32
33
37
47

31
.36

49
15

35
50

49 36

55 30
59 30

56 5

57 30
59 30

58
58 30
11

6 40
9 20

57 30

7
14

42 30

58 30

2 25

12 .30

17 20

18 .30

25 40

26 5
30 25
32 30
3S 15
37 10

34 2

30 53

18 1

3 52

46 46

39 44

14
25
11

54 18

54 28 48

54 41 30

55
55

10
31
34
55 46
55 21
55 16

56
56
56

2
3

52 36
52 33

55 23 30

55 22 55

55 25

55 31

55 45 18
55 36 40

10
30

56 40
56 .34 30
5(> 27
56 21
11
7
2

65 42
55 22 30
55 27
55 41 32
55 34 30
55 51
55 31
55 30 30
55 25 15
55 20
55 22 45
55 21 33
55 21 30
55 20 33
55 47 48

56
27
19

52 41

52 47 27

52 53 23

52 59 10

53 30 2

54 8 45
53 .55 10

pages.

34
34

34, 35

36, 37

.37

42, 43

4()

49, 78

15, 19
19, 49

49, 50
50
50

51
52
53, 54

POSITIONS OF PLACES.

Little South Harbour

Extremity of Placentia Bay

Bordeaux Harbour (Ex.)

Cape Chapeaurouge

St. Pierre ; Harbour Light F. [9] ■

Cape Miquelon

Connaigre Shoal •

Pass Island

Cape La Hune

Outer Penguin Island

Eclipse Island (Burgeo Ids.) [10] •
Cape Ray; S.W. extremity [H]'

'•«••«

Western and N.W. Coasts of New-

foundland.

Cod Roy Isle ; South side

Cape St. George

Red Isle ; S.W. point

South Head of the Bay of Islands [12]

Cow Head •

Port Saunders ; entrance, N.E. point • «

Point Rich ; W. extremity

Point Ferolle ; Cove Point, N.E. extr, • ■

Anchor Point

Green Islet ; N.E. extremity

Cape Norman

COAST OF LABRADOR, commencing with
THE East.

Cape St. Lewis ; S.E. point [13]

St. Charles Island

Belle Isle ; N.E. point {magnetic)

S.W. point

Battle Isles ; N.E. extremity • ■

Henley Island ; middle of N. side ■

York Point ; eastern extremity

Red Bay ; Harbour Isle

Loup Bay ; the head of • . • ■

Forteau Point ; extremity ■

Bradore Hills; Notre Dame (1264 feet high)-

South Hill (1135 feet)

Greenly Island ; N.E. point

Bradore Harbour ; flagstaif

Point Belles Amours ; S.E. extremity

Lion Isle ; Isthmus

Mistanoque Isle

Dead Cove ; south point •

Great Mecattina Point ; S.E. extremity

Hare Harbour ; E. side

Antrobus Point ; N. side of isle

Wapitagun Harbour ; E, point of an islet • • •

Cape Whittle ; S.W. extremity of an isle

Coacoacho Bay ; outer islet

Kegashka Bay ; islet

Natashquan River ; entrance, S. point

Little Natashquan Harbour, head of

Nabesippi River ; First granitic point

Watcheeshoo Peninsula ; summit

LATITUDE N.

A{\

LONGITUDE W.

48
48
49
49
50
50
51
51
51
51

60.

28 54

33 58

6 12

55 12

.38 36

41 47

2 22

14 30

24 18

37 10

21 24

12 48

1 16

15 44

58 1

43 55
31 35

25 37

35 11
u4 2
23 19
27 38

26 42
94 9

15 51
46 52

44 10

36 32
33 20
11 48
\0 44

9 12

11 27

7 5

11 49

16 26

O I II

53 54 38

53 57 14

52 58 30

55 20 31

56 8 44
56 19 30

55 57

56 11
56 50 23

56 58 7

57 36
59 17

55
55
55
55
55
55
55
56
56

57
57
57
57
57
57
58
58
58
59
59

60
60
61
61
61
62
62

19
13

15
10

59 23 45

59 14 34

59 16 13

58 23 40

57 51 16

57 17 57

57 24 14

57 2 38

56 45 30

56 36 46

55 47 48

38 23

34 32

16 4
26 3
32 19
50 30
52 51
25 24

49 50
56 25
11 50

11 32
10 34

14 6
24 44
38 21

12 7
59 5
59 55

17 7

16 31
1 5
6 46

17 55

15 21
47 43

50 17
15 49
41 3

PAGES.

56, 57

()6
67
70, 71

73, 74

75, 76

77, 78

49, 78

81, 82

100

101

POSITIONS OF PLACES.

XKI

PAGES.

56, 57

()6

70, 71

•'

73, 74

i'-

75, 76

77, 78
49, 78

■'■;

'-"''

81, 82

E)4
)5

'vi

Appeeletat Bay ; east point

Betcliewiin Harbour ; low isle

Clearwater Point ; S.W. exf-emity

Miiiffan Harbour ; Sandy Point

Minjj^an Island ; summit

River St. John ; S.E. point

Manitou Point ; extremity

Point St. Charles ; S. extremity

Moisic River ; S.W. point

Cartusel Island ; Southern extremity

Sever Islands' Bay ; storehouse on E. side • • •

Point St. Margaret ; extremity

Cawee Islands; Little Isle, W. point

Egg Islands ; North I. West point

Trinity Bay ; S.W. point

Point de Monts; Lighthouse {fixed It. at \00 ft.)
Cape de Monts ; southern extremity

BRETON ISLAND, the Magdalen Isles,
and Anticosti.

Louisbourg Lighthouse ; Light F.

Scatari Island ; Lighthouse ; Lir/ht rev. at 90 ft.
Flat Point, Sydney Harbour; iJffht F. at 160 ft.

Cape North on Breton Island

Island of St. Paul; northern extremity [14] •
{Two Liyhts ; N. fixed, S. revolving, at 140 ft.)

Magdalen Islands [15].

Entry Isle ; East point

Deadman Islet ; West point

Amherst Harbour ; entrance, N. side of

Coffin's Island ; N.E. point ^

Northern Bird Islet ; centre

Bryon Islet ; East point

ANTICOSTI.

West Point ; S.W. extremity

Cape Hrnry ; S. extremity

S.W. Point; Lighthouse; Light rev. at 100 ft. 1 m.

South Point

East Cape ; Light near it, F. at \00 ft.

Bear Bay ; entrance of the river

Observation Bay ; West side

North Point

RIVER of ST. LAWRENCE : N. Shore.

Point de Monts ; S. extremity, as above

Godbout River ; trading post

St. Nicolas Harbour ; Cross Point

St. Nicolas Point ; southern extremity

St. Giles Point; extremity

Manicougan Point ; S.E. extremity

Bersimis Point; Southern extremity

Jeremie ; trading post

Port Neuf ; church

Tadousac, at the Saguenay River

Chicoutirai, on the Saguenay ; trading post- • • •
Coudres Island ; West point of La Prairie Ba\

latitude n.

longitude w

PAGES.

O /

50 16

102

50 14

<53

103

50 12

103

.50 17

5()

105

50 12

104

50 17

(54

106

50 17

106

50 15

106

50 11

107

50 5

107

.50 13

107

50 2

108

49 49

108

49 38

108

49 23

109

49 19

109

49 18

109

45 54

158

46 1

158

46 18

157

47 3

155

47 14

86, 87

47 17

47 16

47 14

47 37

88, 89

47 51

47 47

49 52

49 47

49 23

49 3

49 8

49 30

49 38

49 57

49 18

109, 111

49 18

111

49 18

49 15

111

49 12

111

49 6

112

48 54

112

48 52

112

48 37

112

48 8

113

48 26

113

47 24

119

XIV

POSITIONS OF PLACES.

i ,

I i

QUEBEC ; North bastion [16]

Montreal ; Cathedral

South Shoiie of the St. Lawrence.

Cape Rosier ; extremity •

(Jreat Fox Bay ; centre • •

Mont Louis River ; entrance, E. jwint

Cape Chatte ; extremity

Malanc River; entrance, inner S.W. point • •

Reef off Little Metis

Mount Camille ; summit, 2036 feet

Barnaby Island ; N.E. point

Bic Island, S.E. reef ; N.E. extremity

Ra/ade Rocks ; N.E. rock

Green Island ; Lif?hthouse ; Li(//it F. at 70 feet

Loup River ; N. point of entrance

Brandy Pots ; S. point of South Rock .......

Kamouraska ; N.E. j)oint of Crow Island • • • •

Crane Island ; a station on the beach

Dauphin Island (Orleans I.) ; S."W. point • • • •

NEW BRUNSWICK, &c., Eastern Coast.

Cape Rosier, (as above) ; extremity

Cape Gaspe ; Flower-pot Rock

Gaspe Basin ; Sandy point

Douglas, the tow n ; South side " • »

Bonaventure Isle ; N.W. point • » • • •

Cape Despair

Point Paspebiac ; southern extremity

Point Miscou •

Point Escuminao ; high water mark

Richibucto ; entrance

Cape Tormentin ; N.E. point

Pictou Isle

Pictou Harbour; entrance, Light F. at 65//. ••

Cape St. George

Gut of Canso, Lighthouse at N. end, Liyht F.
at lib ft.

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND.

East Point

North Cape • • • •

Cape Traverse •

Charlotte Town ; church

Bear Cape • # .

BRETON ISLAND, &c.

Cape North (See page xiii)

Siboux Isles, at the entrance of St Anne's Bay
Sydney Harbour Lighthouse (See page xiii) • • • •

Tow n of Sydney ; Barracks

Scatari Isle ; Lighthouse (See page xiii)

Louisbourg; Lighthouse (See page xiii)

Albion Cliff, on the South side of Isle Madame
Eddy Point ; entrance of the Gut of Canso. • • •

Bear Head ; the islet

Ship Harbour, in the Gut of Canso

latitude n.

o /
46 49

48
49
49
49
48
48
48
48
48
48
48
47
47
47
47
46

6
51
41
28
29
25
12

3
51
52
35

4
58

48 51

48 45

48 49

48 46

48 29

48 25

48 I

47 5

46 40

46 7

45 47

45 41

45 51

45 30 34

45
5
37

43
18
44
43
17
35
25
5
36
17
30
12

57
37
4

38
52
44
22

45 43

LONGITUDE W. PAGES.

71 13

73 31 47

64 1 1 48

64 22 52

65 43 35

66 45 19

67 31 29

68 1 39
68 12 55
68 32 2

68 48 30

69 8 9
69 25 14
69 33 49
69 40 47

69 52 48

70 31 22
70 50 54

45 64
10 64
53 I 64
24 I 64
30 64
30 64

Go
64
64
64
63
62
62
6\

61 29

11 48

9 22

28 41

21 53

9 21

18 32

1 46

31 40

38 33

37 43
33 25

38 10
51 12

123
123

)09
110
110
110
113
114
114
114
115
115
115
117
117
118
120
123

109

1.39

140

139

141

142

143

144

146

146, 147

149

148

152

153

28'

152

155

156

157

154

158

150

149

POSITION'S OF PLACES.

PAGES.

123
123

)09
110
110
110
113
114
114
114
115
115
115
117
117
118
120
123

109

139

140

139

141

142

143

144

146

146, 147

149

148

•I

152

153

152

■ '}

155

156

157

154

158

58 ,

NOVA SCOTIA, &c., Soutiifrn Coasts.

Sable Island j the N E. end (17) • >

The SoiUheniinost part

The West cu.l

The Main Land

Crow llarhdiir, in Cheihihiieto Bay; Rook Isle

Fox Isle, ill Chedahucto Bay

Craiiherry Ishiiul ; Li{;lithoiise,7'?ro/^5. v 'lica/,F.

Ca])e Canseau, or Caiiso

Causo Harbour; Northern entrance (18)

Southern entrance •

Point Gell, near Raspberry Harbour

Wliitehead Island, oil' Whitehaven

Berry Head, on the western side of Torbay • • • .

Green Island, Country Harbour; South pijint- •

Cape Mi)eodon)e,on the S.W. of Country Harbour

^A'hitc Point, on the W. side of Lisconib Harbour

jNIarie et Joseph

Cape SjH'y •

Tanffier Island

Jedore Head, on the W. side of Jedore Harbour

Shut-in Island ; S.W. end

HALrFAx; Citadel Hill (19)

Sainl)ro' Lij-hthouse, Liijht F. at 197 /^ (20)- ■

Holderness Island, on the S.W. side of Mar-
garet's Bay ....

Green Island, off Mahone Bay

Cross Island, off Lunenbur<r Harbour; Lig'ht-
Ijouse, Two Its. vertical; lower /*'., upper eclip.

Cape Le Have

Port MedvNay ; S.W. Head of

Codin's Island, near Liverpool Harbour ; Lii^ht-
house, Lt. rev. two m.

Mouton or Matoon Island

Point Hebert

Shelburne, or Cape Roseway ; Lighthouse, Two
lights vertical^ F.

Cape Negro

Cape Sable (21) ••

Brasil Rock

Seal Island; Lighthouse, Lt. F. at 170 ft. (22)

Cape Fourcbu, near Yarmouth, Lt. rev. at 145 ft
Um.

Cape St. Mary . -

Bryer's Island ; Lighthouse, Lt. F. at 90 ft. (23)

Point Prim (Annapolis Basin); Lighthouse

• ■ • • I

• •*•»•»

LATITUDE N.

F. at 76 ft.
Cape Split, in the Mines Channel-
Cape Chignecto •

NEW BRUNSWICK; Western Coasts.

Fort Cumberland

Cape Enragce ; Lii/ht F. at \20ft.

Quako Head ; Lighthouse, Light rev.

Quako Ledge ; centre •

Cape Spencer

Cape Alaspeck

Partridge Island; Lighthouse; Lt. F. at 110 ft.

o
43

4.3

45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
44
44
44
44
44
44

59
50
57

5
59

20 45
22

19 20
18 10

20
13 30
10 15
10 57

4 55

20
2

56 40

48 25

44 28

LONGITUDE W

PAGES.

O / //

59 47

60
60 15

61 16 20

61 6

60 57 30

60 58 20

61 1 10

60 5S 30

61 4 45
61 9 20
61 20 10
61

tt\r

.34 40

61 42
({2
62

62 .34 45

62 41 10
5 30

17 50

63 33 40
63 32 30

(53
«i3

10
3 30

63 57

63 58 30

64 5 10
64 17
64 29

64 35

64 42

64 51 20

65 12 35
65 17
65 35 30
65 22

65 58 30

66 10
66 14
66 21

65 46 3(

64 20

64 49 30

64 8 30

64 28

65 27
65 10
65 53 30

65 58 45

66 1 15

165,170
165, 170
165, 170

159
159
160
160
160
160
160
161
161
162
162
162
163
163
164
164
165
171
1^2

177
178

179
179
179

180
180
180

181
182
183
183
185

186
186
186

188
188
188

189
189
189
189
189
190
190

XVI

POSITIONS OF PLACES.

LATITUDE N.

City of St. John (24)

Fredericton, tl)c Capital of Now Brunswick •
Point Lepreau ; Lighthouse, Tico Itx. vertical ^F.

Wolf Islands ; N.K. point

Beaver Harbour; S.W. point

Bliss Island, at the entrance of Etanf?

St. Andrew's ; S.E. point of Navy Inland

Canipo Bello ; Head Harbour Lighthouse, Lt. F.

at no ft.

Grand Manan Island, &c. (25)

Northern point

S.W. Head

White Head Island ; N.E. point

Old Proprietor Rock

Gannet Rock ; Lighthouse, Brilliant ft.
in Jiashes

M)
4.')
4.5
44
45
45
45

COAST OF THE UNITED STATES.

Passamaquoddy ; Lighthouse on the West Head,
Lt.F. at 90 ft.

Machias ; town of

Great Wass Island ; S.E. point

Petit or Little Manan Island ; Lighthouse, Lt. F.
53 ft.

Scoodic or Skuttock point

Mount Desert Rock ; Lighthouse, Lt. F. at 50 ft.

Isle Haute ; the S.W. point

Wooden Ball Rock ; Two lantern lights

Isleboro', or Long Island ; South end (26)

Castine : the town

White Head; Lighthouse, Lt. F. at 58ft.

44
44
44
44

15 30
57

2
3

44 24

44 20

43 52

44 1

43 48

44 14
44 24
43 59

3 30

longitude w,

30
30

44 57

40 49

35 30

.37 40

31 40

44 31

44 48
44 51
44 30

o
6(i

(i(> 51
(>7 5 30

m 39
(>(J 25
on 41
6r> 45

66 50

00 48

00 54

0(> 42

00 34

pages.

190
190
193
195
197
190
190

190

193
194
193
194

194

195
199
200

200
200
199
201
201
201
202
202

al
si
el

inl
thl

ha
•pa

^ ri^

NOTES

Referred to in the preceding Table ; showing the Authorities, with some
Additional Remarks, including the Variations of the Compass.

1. St. John's. — The longitudes of the S.E. and south coasts of Newfoundland, as
deduced from the Observations and Surveys of Capt. Jas. Cook, Lieut. M. Lane, Messrs.
Cassini, Verdun, Borda, Pingre, and Owen, are generally from 8 to 3 minutes eastward of
those given in the table : Fort Amherst, on which is the lighthouse at the entrance of St.
John's Harbour (1' 40' east of St. John's Church) having been given as in lat. 47° 33' 30"
N., long. 52° 29' W., or 4' 27" eastward of the assumed position. On the other hand.
Fort Townsend (2 minutes west of Fort Amherst) according to the observations of Mr. J.
Jones, master of H.M.S. Hussar, in 1828, is in lat. 47° 33' 42" N. and long. 52° 45' 29" W.
or 6' 33" west of the given longitude. Amid these conflicting statements, it was thought
safer to repeat the position as given in the Atlantic Memoir, 1840, page 41. The magnetic
variation at Si. John's is about 27^ west.

PAGES.

ino

190

193

19.3

197

I9<>

19«

)

190

193
194
193
194

194

195
199
200

200
200
199
201
201
201
202
202

PH SOME

3S.

Bland, as
\, Messrs.
^stward of
|ce of St.

33' 30"

^^ hand,

|f Mr. J.

29" W.

thought

nagnetio

NOTES.

XVll

2. BACALtFU or lUcALAO IsLAND. — This island is interesting, as being probably the
first land of North America discovered by Sebastian Cabot, vvhicii he did at ."» a. m. of the
24th June, 1497 (St. John's day), and named it " Prim.ivist.i.'' It was afterwards culled
by the J'rencli " liaccalaos," a name applied to the whole of the island of Newfoundland ;
and It was thus called, either from its being the resort of numberless Bacalieu birds, a
species of mergus, which are preserved by the le'^islature as forming useful sea-marks, or
else from the original Indian name of the cod-tisii, bacal.io.

3. Cape Bonavista. — The Admiralty surveyors, Messrs. George Ho'.brook and \Vm.
Bullock, have placed this cape as represented in the table ; but smce that, this and the
coast to the northward of it have been stated as being 8' 50" farther westward : we iiave
retained the former position. The variation is 29° west.

4. Cape Freels. — In the valuable Survey of the coast northward of Cape Freels, by
Lieutenant Fred. Bullock, 1823-4, this cape is placed 4' 10 " south of the same, as given
in the survey southward, by Messrs. Ilolbrook and William Bullock, in 1817 : to connect
this with the southern parts, we have given the latter authority. Variation 30° west,

5. FoGo Harbour is very secure, and has good anchorage. This, with other harbour."?,
has been surveyed by Mr. Thotnas Smith, under the direction of Lieut. Bullock ; and the

'particular plan is the best guide to the harbour. Variation 31° west.

6. Cape St. John, — On the coasts to the northward of this cape, the French have the
right of the fishery. The directions for this coast, given hereafter, are taken from the work
of Captain Ch. Lavaud, of the French marine ; which gives ample instructions for the
navigation between Cape Bonavista and Cape Norman. The variation is here about 31^
west.

7. Cape Norman is placed by Capt. Bayfield in lat. 51° 38' 5", and Ion. 55° 26' 21" W.
or 8' 21" more to the west than in the table, which is the longitude assigned to it by Capt.
Fred. Bullock. Captain Bayfield's position is probably dependent on that of Quebec;
but in the Atlantic Memoir, 1840, p. 50, it is stated that the assumed longitude of (Quebec
is perhaps 3 minutes west of the true position : and the longitude of St. John's, as stated
above, as observed by Mr. J. Jones, and recorded in Fort Townsend, is about 6' 33" west
of its situation, as taken by the Admiralty surveyors. These discrepancies, of Quebec
being 3 minutes too far west, and St. John's 6' 33" too much to the east, would reduce the
difference between these statements to about one minute ; but, until they are reconciled
more satisfactorily, the previous statement is adhered to. The variation at Cape Norman
is 34° 20' west.

8. Cape Pine, — It is stated by Sir R. Bonnycastle that it is the intention of the govern-
ment to establish a lighthouse on this dangerous cape. The variation is about 26° 30' west.

9. St. Pierre, — A survey of Port St. Pierre, by Lieut, Dupetit Thouars, places the
government house, N.E. of the town, in latitude 46« 46' 30'' N., and long. 56=* 9' 35" W.
The French astronomers, Messrs. Verdun, Borda, and Pingre, in the voyage of La Flore,
1771, gave the town of St. Pierre in 46° 46' 30" N. and 56° 10' VV.; and in the charts of
Captain Ch. F. Lavaud, 1836-8, this result is repeated : thus confirming the determination
of the Burgeo Islands, by Capt. Cook, from a solar eclipse in August, 1766. {Phil. Trans.
1767.) The variation is 27° 18' west.

10. Eclipse Island. — See note on page 67.

11. Cape Ray.— Captain Bayfield places this cape in lat. 47° 36' 56', Ion. 59° 20' 10',
or 3 minutes west of the position in the table. See note 16. Variation 24° west.

12. Bay of Islands. — The variation is about 28° west.

13. Cape St. Lewis was placed by Lieut. M. Lane, in 1790, in latitude 52° 25' 30',
and long. 55° 20' W. This, and the whole of the north coast of the Strait of Belle Isle,
have been excellently re-surveyed by Captain H. W. Bayfield, whose nautical directions
have been followed in the ensuing work. The variation is about 35* west.

14. ST. PAUL'S ISLAND.— This island, situated in the entrance to the Gulf of
St. Lawrence, has been noted for the numerous wrecks upon its shores. It is rendered
conspicuous by its two lighthouses, which will render the approach to it less dangerous
and uncertain. Captain Bayfield says, •' Vessels bound to Canada, or any ports in the
Gulf of St. Lawrence, should endeavour to make the Island of St. Paul, which, being of
considerable elevation, and bold all round, may, with care and a good look-out, be made

XVIU

NOTKS.

j )

I :
I

even in fogs, if they are not very thick." In the night, the lights will assure a vessel of
her situation. Variation 'J3'-' 45' W.

15. THE IMAGDALKN I.SLANDS.— In the Atlantic Memoir, pac;e 49, aie the fol-
lowing observations : — " Captain Hayfield ])!aces Cape Kay in longitude .'59'^ 20' 10", or
three minutes west of that assigneil in tho table; and, in order to pre-crve the trlative
positions of the Magdalen Islands, Ike, we are undt^r tho necessity of placing tliem three
minutes to the east of that gciilleinan's positions. TiRrtfore, l)y adding these thioe iidnutes,
we gam the exact longitude assigned by C/aj)iain B., and as likewise sliowii in the l)eaiilifiil
chaitof the islands from the survey of IJcntenunt 1'. E, Collins, R.N., IdlJO." Variation
23° W.

J6. QUEBEC. " The latitude of Quebec is 46° 47' 30" N., according to the observa-
tions of M. le Marquis de Lotbiniire, M. lledaid, directory of the seminary of yt. Louis,
and Captain Holland. M. Mechain computeil the longitude to be 71'-^ 10', by several
eclipses of Jupiter's first satellite observed by Messrs. Lotbinifere and Holland, and the
pa.ssage of Veims that Captain Holland observed in 1769. All these observations, made
at different times, have given very coherent results." Vide American Trans. Vol. I. &c.

The above passage, from "Analysis of a General Chart," &c., Paris, 1786, shows the
position in which Quebec has hitherto been laid down on the charts ; and it agrees with
that given in the Conn, des Terns. ]}ut Quebec has since been exhibited considerably
more to the eastward. Mr. Smyth, in his map of Upper Canada, has it in 69" 52' : the
error is here enormous. Mr. Wright, in his chart of 1807, 70° '27'. The liecjuisite Tables
of 1802 give lat. 46° 48' 38", Ion. 71° 5' 29". Colonel Bouchette, in his work on Canada,
1815, gives 46° 48' 49". N. and 71° H' W. In the years 1819, 1820, and 1821, the officers
of II. M.S. Newcastle, provided with four chronometers, made niany observations in the
river; and these observations may be judged of by the longitude in which they placed
Quebec for three successive yeais, assuming Halifax as in 63° 33' 40"; July 16th, 1819,
71° 12' 48'; June 19th, 18'20, 71° 13' 14"; July 5th, 1821, 71° 12' 25'. The greatest
difference is 49", and the mean of the whole is one second farther west than the longitude
given in 1819.

From these data, we judge that the longitude of Quebec does not exceed that given in
the table, which is 3 minutes less than that of Captain Bayfield.

Variations of the Comi'ass in and about the St, Lawrence. It has been proved by
numerous observations made by the American surveyors, Mes;TS. Jos. and B. i-dlicott, that
the westerly variation, in 1800, ceased at or very near the river Niagara, on the south side
cf Lake Ontario, or long. 79° W. See the particular plan of the Frontier of Niagara,
given on die new map of Canada, &c., published by Mr. Laurie. The variation at Mon-
treal was 7° 45' W. in 1834. In and about the same year the variations were as follow:
at Contrecour, 8° 45': Lake St. Peter, 10°: Trois Uiviires, 11°: Qtebec, and Isle of
Orleans, 15°: Isle aux Coudres, 16° : at Tadousac, on the mouth of the Saguenay, 17*^ :
Off the Isle Bic, 18° 40' : Port Neuf, 18° 20' : at Father Point, 19° 45' : Point des
Monts, 22° : Seven Isles, 20° 27' : West end of Anticosti, 24° 30' : East end 25° 30' :
Mingan Island, 26° : Off Kegashka, 27° 45' : Little Mecattina, 30° 30' : Bradore Har-
bour (Strait of Belle Isle), 34° 15' : Red Bay, 35° 30'.

Off Cape de Monts, in the River St. Lawrence, there is a remarkable aberration of the
compass, which renders it necessary to steer different courses according to the direction of
the vessel's head : see note on p. 127-8.

The variation at the east end of Prince Edward Island is 21° : Pictou Haiboui", 19°.
In Sydney River, Breton Island, and at Cape Breton, 22° west,

17. Sable Island. — In the Colombian Navigator, vol. 1, page xviii. is given a note,
which is repeated on page 165 of the present work. 'The latitude of Sable Island iippears
to have been given as five miles too far north ; and the west end, according to M. des
Barres, 15 minutes to the westward of that, as given by Mr. J. Jones, Master of II. M.S.
Hussar, which is probably near the truth. This may have added to the leal dangers of this
formidable place. It may be observed that the west end is given in the table in lat. 43° 57',
and Ion. 60° 15', or 2' east of that of Mr. Jones, in 1829 ; but, as will be seen hereafter,
in the copious description of Sable Island, the rapid reduction in its length will cause as
much difference as this. It may be here repeated, that every precaution ought to be used
on arriving near Sable Island. The variation, in 1837, was found to be 20° 22' W.

18. Canso or Canseau Harbour is the harbour or rather channel formed by George's,
formerly Canso Island. M. de Chabert, in 1750, stated this harbour to be in longitude

\f)I KS.

XIX

a vessel of

nie tlie fol-
■20' to", or
llie relative
; tlieni three
lee iriiiiute.s,
lie heautiful
Variation

the observa-
f St. Louis,
', by several
md, and the
tions, made
'ill. I. &c.
, shows tlie
agrees with
considerably
^^ 62' : the
jisiie Tables
on Canada,
, the officers
lions in tlie
they placed
16th, 1819,
riie greatest
he longitude

hat

given in

I proved by
-llicott, that
e south side
of Niauara,
on at i\]on-

as follow:

land Isle of

enay, I?*' :

Ponit des
Id 25° 30' :
lad ore Har-

ition of the
Idirection of

Irbou.S 19°.

len a note,

[nd itppears

lio M. des

|of 11. M.S.

jers of this

^t.43<»57',

hereafter,

11 cause as

Ito be used

'' W.

George's,
longitude

46" 20' N. and 60° 56' W. The latitude here atjrees widi M, des Barres, and tlio lonpi-
tude is only 3 minutes more to the east. Mr. Lock wood, on the contrary, makes the
latitude 'I minutes more north, an'l the lon<;itude 2 minutes more west.

19. HALIFAX. In Mr. Rappr's valuable work, llu; longitude of Halifax is assumed
a? a secondary meridian, in (ji'-' 37' 26" ; but, as this position cannot be considered as
finally determiiif^d, we have repealed the longitude as given in the Atlantic Memoir,
p. 55, and the Colombian Navigator, vol. i. p. 9 ; and, jiid'^iir^ from the coherency of
former results, the lonoilude above is probably luarly 4 niinutis too far west. — See also
the note on p. 171 hereafier.

20. SAMMUO' LIGIlTllOl'SR. «' In 1823, the officers of II.M.S. Nietmu, made
the longitude of Sambro' li«lit 63"' 30' bV. In 1822 they had m;i(!e it in 63' 30" 0'. and
it w;is subsefjuently gained by them as 63° 30' 8". {Mean 63° 30' 22".) M. des Barres
gave it as 6.i° 31'. We, therefore, reject a statement of 63° 3.V K'l", lately published."
— Co/. Nav. vol. i. p. 20.

21. Cape Sahle. (.'ape Sable and the points to the northeastward, were formerly
given as represented by M. des Barres in 1776, whose longitude, as well as latitude,
appeared to be r.ciirest to the truth; hiii it niiiy be observed, that M. de Chabert, the
French astronomer, in 1750, gave the latitude of the (.ape, from his own observations,
as only 43° 23' 45"; Mr. .Tones, in 1829, gave it as 43° 23' 57'; Mr. Lockwood, in
1818, gave it as 43° 27' 40" ; and a chart of the Bay of Fundy, dated 1st May, 1824, has
it even so lii'di as 43° 28' 10 ". — See the next note.

22. Seal Island. M. des Barres places the southernmost point of Seal Island in
latitude 43° 25' 25", and loiii^itude 66" (•' 35". Later charts have it in latitude
43° 26' 35". But, under the orders of Uear-Adniiral Sir (Jli.is. O^le, Mr. John Junes,
of 11. M S. Hussar, in 1828, 18,'9, and 1830, made a series of observations upon the
coasts of Nevvfoumllynd, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Ike, some of which have been
before adverted to. By tliese observations he places the south point fif Seal island in
latitude 43° 23' 51", longitude 65^^ 59' 42", or 3 miles more to the southward than the
above; and Lieut. C/ius. Hare, R.N., made, in 1828, some observations, which places the
latitude of the south point in 4y° 22' 23", or futir 7niles more to the sonlhicard. This
result, which may thus be depended on, v\ill account for so many ships having been
yearly cast away on coming out of the Bay of Fundy. On the supposition of these
vessels being far enough to the southward to clear all danger, they may have bore away
to the S.E., and thus have been lost. — See description and note on p. 183.

VARIATIONS OF the COMPASS on the south coast of Nova Scotia.— In the year
1775 the vaiiations were given bv M. des Barres as follow: — North entrance of the Gut
of Canso, 16° 0' W.; Crow Harbour, Chedabucto Bay, 14° 50' VV. ; entrance of Liscomb
Harbour, 14°; Sable Island, 13° 57'; Halifax lighthouse, 13° 35'; entrance of Shel-
burrie, 18° 30'; Cape Sable, 11° 15'.

In 1798, Mr. Backhouse, of the navy, found the variation at Halifax to exceed 16
degrees. According to Colonel Bouthette, it was 17° 0' 10" at that place in 1830; at
Sambro' lighthouse, in 1828, 16° 45°; and at Cape Sable, 14°; so that since 1775 it
has increased nearly 3^ degrees; but whether it is still on the increase hereabout is
questionable.

23. BRvrn's Island. — M. des Barres gives Bryer's Island as in latitude 44° 22' 5",
and 66° 21' W.; hut we are constrained to follow up ihe correction of Grand Manan
and Cape Sable, and thus give it more to the southward. Mr. Jones gives the latitude
as 44° 13' 51".

PoTNT Prim is also given by M. des Barres as in 44° 4."/ 30" N. (longiiade
65° 46' 30" W.,) four miles higher than the latitude given in the table.

24. CITY OF ST. JOHN.— M. des Barres gave the position of the Cape or Point
Maspeck as 45° 18' 27", and 65° 57' 35" VV. It will be seen, by reference to the table,
that it is now represented nearly 6 miles more to the south ; and this correction, of course,
affects St. John's, and all the coast westward to Passamaquoddy Bay.

The variation at St. John's is about 16* W.

25. Grand Manan Inland, &c. — Lieut. Charles Hare, in a voyage outward and
homeward, in 1828, made observations for determining the latitude of the S.E. side of

«a«

NOTES.

i':

Grand Manan Island, which, he concluded, must confirm, beyond all doubt, that the
whole body of that part of the island must be brought southerly, iii order to be correct.

Ai ihe time this information was received, we were doubtful of its accuracy, so far a§
these remarks affected (irnml Munan, not suspecting that the charts, then recently pub-
lished by authority, could possihiy be incorrect.

But Mr. .Innes, before alluded to, made Whitfhead h/e on the S.K. of Grand Manan,
in latitude 44° 36' .^9", while in the chart it appears in 44° 41' 0", or 4 miles more to the
northward, thus confirming the observations of Lieut llaie, who makes the difference here
about five tniles.

26. IsLF.Bono', or Lono Island. — The position of this island was determined, in 1780,
by Or. Williams, Dr. Winthrop, and other American astronomers, from a total eclipse of
the sun, Sept. 27lh.

^E^^'FOUNDLAND. — On the chart of Newfoundland, &c. accompanyinvt this work, is
shown all that is known of the interior of that singular country. It is piincipally derived
from a map by Mr. .hike, the late g' olo^ical surveyor ol Newfoumlliirid, which is com-
posed from the explorations of Mr. C'oiinack, in his nnsuccessful search for the aboriginal
Red Indians, now probably extinct (182'i — 27); of Mr. Peyton and Cipt. Buchan on the
River of Exploits; from his personal observations in the River llumber and the Grand
Pond, &c. ; from the reports of the native Micmac Indians, and other sources.

( f

('.■

ht, that the
correct.

y, sn far as
•ceiilly pub-

f»nd Manan,

more lo ihe

[ference here

ecJ, in 1780,
1 eclipse of

this work, is
lally derived
it'll is coin-
le aboriginal
iclian on ihe
1 the Grand

'':A

'J#

€

THK PHAKONOLOGY,

Oft

DESCRIPTION OF THE L I (, II T- TOWE R S,

AND OTHER

REMARKABLE OUJECTS FOll DlSTlNCiUlSIIING HEADLANDS, 8fc.

NEWFOUNDLAND, and GULF and RIVER of

ST. LAWRENCE.

CAPE SPI'AFl. — A lighthouse, exhibiting a powerful revolving lisht, at 275 feet above
the level of the sea, which shows a brilliant flash at regular intervals of one minute; visible,
in clear weather, at eight leagues ofl'. Page 19.

ST. JOHN'S. — Upon Fort Amherst, on the South Head, at the entrance of the harbour,
a brilliant and fixed light. See page 19. Here are, also, a small battery and signal-post.

HARBOUR (iKACE.— On an islet, one of a clusler of rocks at the mouth of (he har-
bour, a lij;hihous(', consistinj; of a square wooden house, with a square dove-cole lookmg
top lor a lantern, containing an eflieclive and useful fixed liyht. The islet is accessible in
moderati'ly smooth weather only, by ladders up the face of its landward cliff. Page 22.

PORT ST. PIEIillE, on the island of that name. — A modern lighthouse, near the town,
with fixed harbour light, from the 1st of May lo the loih of November, as described in
page 60.

SCATARI. — An octagonal light-tower, built of wood, on the N.E. extremity of Scatari,
first lighted, with argand burners and reflectors, Dec. 1, 18:i9; painted white, with revolving
light, about 90 feel above the sea; visible one minute, and invisible half a minute, alter-
nately. A boat to render assistance to vessels in distress; and a gun to answer signals,
when required. Page 1 j8.

SYDNEY, BRETON ISLAND.— On Flat Point, upon the eastern side of the ertrance,
an octagonal t(nver, of wood, 90 feel high, and painted vertically led and white. It exhibits
a bril iant fixed li^ht at loO feel above the level of the sea; seen, in clear weather, at five
leagues oft'. Page 157.

ST. PAUL'S ISLAND, off" Cape Nokth.— Two lighthouses, octagonal, and built of
wood ; one near its northern, and the other near its southern extremity ; fif wiiich one will
always be open, unless to a vessel near the central rocks. The northern light is on a rock,
separated from the main island by a passage 26 feet wide: it is painted white, and exhibits
a fixfd dioptric ot refracted light, with concentiic lamps and four burners, at 140 feet above
the sea.

The SouTiiEnN Lighthouse is on the S.VV. extremity of the island. It exhibits a light
similar to the northern one, but revolving, at the same lieight. I age 86.

GUT OF CANSO. — A lighthouse, on the western sifle of the northern entrance of the
Gut of Canso, was establislied in 1842, in latitude 46° 42', and longitude 01° 27'. The
tower, painted white, stands at 120 yaids from the shore, and exhibits a fixed light at 115
feel above the level of the sea. It may be seen from the greater p.irl of the Bay of St.
George and the shores of Breton Island, as far as Jestico or Poit Hood.

There is good anchorage under the lighthouse, with the wind off the land. Page 149.

PICTOU. — An octagonal lighthouse, built of wood, on the western side of the entrance.
It is painted red and white, in vertical stripes, and exhibits a brilliant fixed light at 65 feet
above the sea. Tiie light bearing W. i N. leads into the harbour. Page 146.

LQUiSBOURG. — A lighthouse on the eastern side of the entrance to the harbour of
Louisbourg, 60 fathoms in-shore, lat, 45" 54' 30', long. 59° 55' 30'. It stands on the site

=.»■

XXII

THK IMlAU()\()I.O(iV.

I ;

!l:

of tlic old French liKhtliouso, (which was siiccfpded hy a hencoii,) and shosvi a Hxed lisht,
visililo at sea fiom ofl' ("ape I'ortbiid to the «*iuitlipasterri extromiiy of Ciipe Mn'toii. The
li;;hllio(i'««!, (which is a .s(|iiai<' hiiil hiiu:,) is piiinlrd while, with vcrlir.il Mack slnpes on
either siih>, in onltr to (ll^tillutlish it fniin oihtr lii;lillu)iis'.'!i, and to lender it conspicuous
when the hac k hind is cov(>ied with <iiiow. See pa'^e lAQ.

ANTICOSri. — On the. S. \V, pniiit of Aiitici>sti, n circnhir stone tower, 75 feet hiffh.

The hjiht. which is hriMianl. rcvoUcs oi'icj- in a inniute, and can l)e seen from N.N.W.,

Kind hy the we>t and sniiili, to S.K. hy K. Tiie huiiern is elevated 100 feet ahove hij^h

afer, and the liuht may ho seen at five leamie;! off. Lighted from the 25th of March lo
. 1. .. .1 f .1 _ II /> •

ron
w

the last day of the year. I'a'^'e 91.

On IIlaiii I'oiNr, iitur Uiv S. I'l. iwlrtini/i) iif' l/iii islmul, is another lii>hthouse, of the
same form, dinierisioiis, ami colour as the ahove, and also huilt of ihe island limesione. The
liljht hrii;hl and fixed, at l()0 feet ahov*; ihe sea, shows from W.N.VV. round by South lo
N.K. hy N. Heath Point hcinir low, it disippcars helow the hoiizon at the distance of a
few miles, and the lii;hthouse then appears like a sail off the island. I'age OU.

POINT UE MONTS, on the north ."ide of the River of St. Lawrence, nearly opposite to
Cape Cliatte, a tower with a tixed liyht, at ahout 100 feet above the level of the sea ; lyinjj
S. b'l" VV. hoin the outer part of Caribou Point; over which, and to the eastward of it, the
land may be seen.

From the lii;hthouse the western extremity of Point de Monts bears S. 64° W. about one
mile; and when a ship is to the westward of the point, the li<;hthouse will appear in one
with the outermost rocks off the same. In (he day-time it forms a bold, distinct hin<lmark,
and from this lino of beariiifj, ships are in tiie best fairway for sailinj^ up or down the river.
See further, pa^e 109.

Liyhtfioutr on Puiiil de Monti, West, one mile.

GllFEN ISLAND, in the River. — On the north point of this island is a li^ht-tower,
wiih a fixed light, at about 70 feet, from the 16th of April to the lOlh of December.
Note (*) page 115, and page VA\.

TRAVERSE, near Cape Sr. Roorr.— A floatinir light in the South Traverse, on the
edge of the Bank of St. Rnque ; five miles above a chequered buoy,^aiid three-quarters of
a mile below a black buoy on the same. Page 1 19.

LAKE ST. PIERRE, or Sr. Peter, above Quebec. At about 47 miles below Mont-
real, a light-vessel and a buoy indicate the entrance to the south channel, at the western
end of Lake St. Pierre. Page 13G.

NOVA SCOTIA; Southern and Western Coasts.

CRANBERRY ISIAND, near Cape Canso.— An octae;onal tower, built of wood,
88 fieet in height, painted horizontally red and white, which exhibits two lights, one above
the other, with argand lamps and reflectors. Page 160.

Note. — Tiie lighthouses of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick are now painted with black or red
stripes, to distinguish tiie towers from the land ; as, after tiie snow is gone off llie land, the arcumu-
lalions against the fences, wliicli generally run at riglit angle's to the coast, and whicii continue for
some time after it has disappe.ired from the fields themselves, hive exactly the appearance of a white
tower, and frequently mislead even those acquainted with the coasts.

SABI.E ISLAND, Signals. — The signal.9 used to communicate with the establishment

ixed liKlit,
ton. The
slripfts on

)l»picUUU!i

ft'Pt hiah.
1 N.N.W.,

tliove hi^li
Murch to

ise, of the
lone. The
y South to
tance of a

:)pposite to
sea ; lying
d of it, the

almut one
leur in one

hindmark,
n the river.

fjlit-tower,
lecember.

^e, on the
luarters of

)w Mont-
le western

rs.

lof wood,
Ine above

fck or red

accumii-

litimie for

V a white

llishment

it'^

•JMF. Pll AHONOl.OGY. XMII

on Sable Inland, hy any vessel visiting it or passing the island, ore a* follow : -(For de-

scriptinn, sro pa^o IG/S.)

A f\iia at in till tDpmu^t or forpxilliui^ n\a>f-ht'nd, tlennle» All will om lionr.l.

niiiin-iiiiixt liiud An- iliirt- nny vmitKh.'

miiiiiKaH'. t'aii a Imat >r«'t oH'.'

niiiiii u"itf. half lioi.tcd, H"'^* inaiiy jh rxoim on nhore '.

nuiln ri);aii)jt Vt— il in (li-tri'->*

loretiipiiiiM lu'aii Vi'hmI (•..miiiK tu llic i,l;uiil.

fort' lipniiiK Alt' yiiii in w.inf «t'|irnviNi(»iii ?

the ma«.i-liia(l in tlic i^l.in.l, TliiH a Iki.ii \m1I l)e uH'ininieiiiately.

the in.i-t-lu'ad, irke|)l ll>in(r, All will on sliore

the liH.^f ynrd-avni Ari- y(.n lomin^ to the island f

th«» *«nie, lljlf lioisted, A l)oat cannot uct ofj".

the Wfst varil-ar"i N"' '" «•'"* "f proviiiun.

the samf hairhoi.>r<(| In want of provision.

One ball or more, llaU yard-arm, Ten persons tor c'a( h ball.

\Vest yaid .irni, One wrick or more.

A flaur under o. ' tiall or more, We-t yard-arm,. . One or more of II..M. Ships.

A pendant under one ball or more. West yard-
arm, One uf II.M. packets.

The Flaj; used on the Island is red, wliite, and blue, horizontally. A Union Jack, or
any other Hag, is used by the vessel.

Any of the above sii;nals, whrn made, should remain up ton or fifteen ruintitps, or until
answered. A uun I'ued, partirularly in hazy weather, will draw the alteniinn of the iidiu-
bitants. All other tiays must be kept down when makiii;; signals. {April, UXM .)

\\V.\W,V. ISLAND, off the entrance of St. Mary's River, to the eastward of Halifax,
is distiiimiislied by a beacon of wood, \Ww^ to 140 fet above; tlie sea, covered at the top,
and painted white. It may be seen from G to 8 nulcs otf. I'age IG'2.

DFAMIi ISLAND, on the eastern side of the entrance to Halifax Harbour, a beacon of
wood, painted white, and 50 feet in heii^'hl. Fage ITii.

SAMIUIO' ISL \ND, west of Halifax Harbour, an ocia>;nnal tower, 197 feet hiyh, with
a brilliant fixed liuht. Attached is a small party of artillery, willi two 2-4.|)Ounders for
signals, &c. Latitude 44° 20' 30", longitude 03'^ 32' 30*. Tagcs 171, 172.

HALIFAX HARHOUR, — Slicrhtook Tower, on Maughei's Ileach, a circular tower,
with a fixed light, at 58 feet above the level of the sea, as a lealing light for the harbour.
Pages 171, 17'J, 173.

LUNI'NHlIUCi. — Tpon the S. E. jioint of Cross Island, at the entrance rf Lunenburg
Bay, lat. 44" 23', long, 1° ^>' 10", an octagonal lower, painted red, with two li'.ilits placed
veiiically, and 30 feet apart. The lower light is fi\ed, and the u[)per so eclipsed as to show
a flash at intervals of a minute, abruptly changing from dark to light. First lighted, Dec. 1,
1839. Ttie island is low and thickly wooded. See page 179.

LI VFJIFOOL— A lighthouse, 90 feet high, on (Joftin's Is'and, at the entrance of Liver-
pool Haibour; of octagon shape, painted led and white horizontally, and exhibiting a bril-
liant light, revolving once in every two minutes. See page 180.

CAPE ROSKWAY. — Shelburne Tower, on Cape Koseway, ofan octagon shape, painted
black and white vertically, and exhibits, vertically, two brilliant fixed lights; the upper
and larger being at 150 feet above the level of the sea, the lower light 36 feet below it.
Page 181.

CAPE SAHLE, Seat. Inland. — A lighthouse on the highest part of the Southern Seal
Island, latitude about 4.'i° 24', longitude OS"" 58^'. It is ofan octagon shape, and 5 70 feet
high, painted white, with a brilliant fixed light.

This is the first liaht seen in approaching the Bay of Fundy. The very dangerous rock,
called the hloiide, lies about two miles S.S.VV, (wngn.) from the lighlhoiise. Between the
rock and island are some dangers : the ground is rocky throughout, and large vessels, there-
fore, ought not to attempt passing between. Page 185.

CAPE FOURCHU, on the western side of the entrance to Yarmouth, in lat. 43° 47i',
long. 66° 10', a lighthouse, which, since the 15th of January, 1840, exhibits a brilliant re-
volving light, visible one minute and a quarter, and invisible half a minute. The building
is painted red and white, vertically, and is elevated 145 feet above the level of the sea.

XXIV

THE PHARONOLOGY.

• ■ -I

•«• In a valuable communication which we have received from Mr. \Vm. Reynolds, of tlie city of
St. John, New Brunswick, dated 24th October, 1841, this gentleman says, " Several shipmasters,
who have passed the Cape Fourchu light, bound in, have described it as one of the best lights on this
coast ; indeed there is no part of the public service that has been better attended to than the light-
houses, their lanterns, lamps, and reflectors; and. as far as lighting with oil is concerned, will vie in
b illiancy with those of any similar apparatus in any part of the world The lanterns, improved
1 iiiips, and reflectors, are highly creditable to the artisans who made them, (at St. John's,) and the
laudable exertions and perseverance of the lighthouse commissioners are beyond all praise."

Note. — All the British lighthouses in the Bay of Fundy are of wood ; and, with the exception of
that on Partridge Island, have all been established since 1828. The shape of each, that of Cape
Enrage excepted, is octag(mal; the last mentioned is square. The lanterns are of iron, with large
plate glass, and the lamps argand, with reflectors. The diameters of the towers, at the base, are
from 25 to 35 feet, tapering upward to the lanterns.

BUYER'S ISLAND ; Latitude 44° 14^'.— A lighthouse, painted white, with brilliant
Jixfd light, (in lieu of the old and di<;graceful lighthouse,) elevated 90 feet above the level
of the sea, and about half a mile N.E. from the N.W. point of the island. Page 186.

ANNAPOLIS.— A lighthouse on Point Prim, on the western side of the entrance, with
Jixed light, at 76 feet above the sea.

The coast hereabout is very bold, and not indented ; the light is therefore intended chiefly
as a guide into Digby Basin. Renovated, with reflectors, &,c., in 1835. Page 188.

CAPE ENRAGEE, on tiie north side of CniGNEcxo Bay. — A square lighthouse, exhi-
biting a brilliant fixed light. The house is painted white, and is elevated about 120 feet
above high water.

QUAKO HEAD, on the north side of the Bay of Fundy. — A lighthouse on a small
rock near this head, with a brilliant revolving light, established in 1835. Light full and
dark twice in a minute. The lighthouse is painted white and red, in horizontal stripes.
Page 189.

ST. JOHN'S HARBOUR.— A lighthouse on Partridge Island, exhibiting a brilliant
Jlxed light, at 110 feet above the level of the sea, and having a bell, which is tolled in thick
weather. Tiie lighthouse is painted red and white, in vertical stripes. Page 190.

Beacon Light. — Within Partridge Island, and upon a spit or bar which extends about
half a mile S.S.E. off" Sand Point, and which dries at two-thirds ebb, stands a beacon tower.
This lower shows a fixed light, which is eminently useful to the coasting trade of St. John,
and to all other vessels having pilots on board, as it enables them to enter the harbour at
all hours of the night. The house is painted white and black, in stripes vertically. The
light is about 35 feet from high-water mark.

For the Signals displayed on the approach of vessels to the harbour, see page 192.

POINT LEPREAU, on the north side of the Bay of Fundy. — A lighthouse, erected in
1831, exhibits two brdliunt fixed lights, vertically, one being '28 feet below the other: the
lower lantern is attached to the outside of the building, as shown in piige 195. Both lights
can be seen from every point of the compass, where they may be useful. In consequence
of orders from the home government, this light was, in 18^0, painted red and while, in
stripes of five feet broad each, horizontally, in order that it may be seen more distinctly at
a distance. The height from the level of high water to the lower light is 25 feet.

HEAD HARBOUR, Passamaquoddy Bay {United States).— \ brilliant fixed light on
the N.E. extremity of Porto Bello. as a guide to vessels entering the main channel to West
Isles, Moose Island, and the inner bay of Passamaquoddy, and enabling vessels at all times
to enter Head Harbour. The light is elevated about 60 feet from high-water mark. The
building is painted white, with a red cross upon it. Page 196.

QUODDY IIE.'\D, opposite to the north end of Grand ^Nlanan, on the west. — A light-
house, with brilliant fixed light, at 90 feet above the sea, and which may be seen at seven
leagues off". An alarm bell, near the lighthouse, strikes ten times in a minute, and may be
heard, in calm weather, five miles off. Page 196.

GANNET ROCK, to the southward of Grand Manan.— -A lighthouse with a brilliant
jftashiiig, formerly a fixed red light, as described in page 194. This light is intended to
wnrn vessels of their approach to the dangerous range of shoals and ledges, extending from
the Old Proprietor to the Seal Isles off" iMachias, a distance of about 20 miles. The bril-
liant flash appears for 40 seconds, and is succeeded by 20 seconds of darkness. Tlie light-
house is painted in stripes, vertically, black and white.

THE PHARONOLOGY.

XXV

of the city of
shipmusters,
lights on this
lan the light-
ed, will vie in
ns, improved
n's,) and the
lise."

; exception of
that of Cape
n, with large
the base, are

/ith brilliant
)ve the level
ige 186.

I trance, with

;nded chiefly
;e 188.

thouse, exhi-
lout 120 feet

e on a small
ght full and
;ntal stripes.

g a brilliant
tiled in thick
190.

[tends about
eacon tower,
of St. John,
e harbour at
ically. The

ige 192.

, erected in

other: the

Both lights

joiisequence

[U white., in

jdistinctly at

Iced light on

Inel to West

at all times

lark. The

Between the northernmost and southernmost of the Murr Ledges, (see note*, page 194,)
there is a range of dangerous rocks and shoals, many of them always above water, and
which extend westward from the lighthouse about four miles ; from this range, farther west-
erly, about eight miles, lies a dangerous breaker, called the lionrinp Hull. This may be
avoided, by keeping three remarkable headlands near the S.W. end of Grand Manan open.

MACULES' SEAL ISLES.— On the southernmost isle are two lighthouses, established
in 1832. The distance apart is 200 feet, and they exhibit brilliant fixed lights, horizontally,
at about 45 teet above high water. In a line they bear VV.N.VV. and K.S.E. Page 195.

Vessels standing to the northward, between these lights and the Gannet Rock, should
tack or haul off" the moment they bring these lights in one, as tliey will not then be more
than three-fourths of a mile from the Murr Ledges, if more than five iriiles to the east of
the lights.

MOUNT DESERT ROCK.— Lighthouse, with a conspicuous fixed light, appearing
red, at .iG feet above the sea. Latitude 43^ 52', longitude 68"^ 3', which may be safely
assumed as a point of departure. Page 199.

LIBIJEE or Libby Isles, near Machias' Bay. — On the southernmost a lighthouse, with
Jirid light, in latitude about 44'^ 35', and 60 fet-t above the level of the sea. Page 199.

MOOSEPECK HEAD.— Lighthouse on Mistake Isle, three leagues S.W. -\ W. from
that of the Libbee Isles. It exhibits a revolving light at 54 feet above the sea, which is
eclipsed twice in every four minutes. A' six leagues off, the duration of light and dark
appears nearly equal ; but, on approaching, the time of darkness will diminish, and that of
liglit increase. See page 200.

LITTLE MANAN.— A lighthouse of stone, with brilliant fixed light, at 53 feet above
the level of the sea, and 4^ miles S.E. | S. from the entrance of the Port of Gouldsboro',
and five leagues to the southweslward of Moosepeck light. Lat. 44° 24', long. 67° 46'.
Page 200.

CRANBERRY ISLANDS.— A lighthouse on Baker's hland, the outermost of the
Cranberry Isles, with brilliant fixed light, at 70 feet above the sea, bearing from that on the
Little Manan W.S.W. five leagues. Lat. 44° 15', long. 68° 6'. Page 201.

WHITE HEAD, on the western side of the mouth of the Penobscot. Lat 430 58',
long. 69° 1'. — Lighthouse, with brilliant fixed light, at 58 feet above the level of the sea'
with that on Mount Desert Rock bearing E.S.E. 13 leagues. Page 201.

METINICUS.— On the outer Wooden-ball Rock, two lantern lights, one at each end of
a dwelling-house, 82 feet above the sea, and which, when in one, bear N.N.W. Lat 43° 8'
long. 68° 45. Page 201. " ' '

OWL'S HEAD, on the western side of the Penobscot. — Lighthouse, with brilliant fixed
lights, at 150 feet above the level of the sea, the fairway course to which is N.W. by N.
It stands at seven miles above White Head. Page 201.

PENOBSCOT Harbour Lights.— One on Brown's Head, the western side of the Fox
Island Passage, with fixed light at 80 feet above high water. Another on Dice's Island
upon the eastern side of the river, at the entrance of Castine Harbour, with fixed lieht at
116 feet. Page 202. * ^

\* For a continuation of the Lights on the coasts of the United States, the reader is
referred to the first volume of the *' Colombian Navigator," which contains a description
of and sailing directions for, all the coast westward of the Fenobscot, ^c.

.—A light-
|en at seven
ind may be

'.^

a brilliant

lintended to

[tiding from

The bril-

The light-

ADVERTISEMENT.

SAILING DIRECTORIES, &c. 1843.

The following Memoirs and Directouies, the productions of the late
Mr. JoiJN PuRDY, were proposed by him to form a complete series, and to be
bound in volumes as described. The dates of the last editions are subjoined'
These now comprise the navig^ation of all the coasts from the Arctic Seas to
Cape Horn, the Cape of Good Hope, and ihe Southern Coast of Africa;
including- the Cattegat, Baltic, Mediterranean, Euxine, and other inland
i!i seas.

Von'ME I. — 1. INTemoir, Descriptive and Kxplanatory, to accompany tlie General Cliart
of the NoKTHicRN OcKAN, Davis' t'trait, and Baffin's Bay; mcliidin;^ (lie Navigation from
Great Britain and Ireland to Spilzbergen and tlie W hite Sea, inclusive, 1830. 2. Sailing
Directory for tlie North Se,i, including tlie Kastern Co^ists of Enghmd, Scotland, ivc,
7tl) Kdition, 1842, 3. Sailin-j Directory for tlie Cailegat, Sound, and Belts, 1843. 4. For
the Baltic, 1839. 5. Gulf of Finland, 1843.

Volume II. — 1. — Sailino Directory for the Enf];lish Channel, 9lh edition, 1842. 2. For
St. George's Channel and all the Coasts of lieland, 4th edition, 1842.

Volume III.— 1. Sailing Directory for the Bay of Biscay, 1839. 2. For Spain and
Portugal, 1839. 3. For the Strait of CJibraltar and Western Division of the Mediterrnnean
Sea, with Additions, 18-10. 4. For the (nilf of Venice and Fastern or Levantine division
of the Riediteiranean Sea, together with the sea of Marmara and the Euxine or Black Sea;
1834. Additions as above.

Volume IV. — Memoir, Descriptive and Explanatory, (o accompany the Charts of the
Atlantic Ocean, and comprising Instriictions, General and Particular, for the Navigation of
that Sea, with an Appendix, &c. blh ednion, ld40.

Volume V. — 1. The British Ameiiican Navigator, or Sailing Directory for New-
foundland, the Gulf and Kiver of St. Lawrence, Nova Scotia, &c. 1843. 2. The Colombian
Navigator, or Sailing Directory for the American Coasts and the West Indies: Vol. i.
Nova Scotia to Florida and Mexican Sea, inclusive; Vol. li. The Great Autillas, Wind-
ward Passages, and Navigation of the Gulf Stream, 1839.

Volume VL — The Colombian Navigator, Volume the third: for the Caribbee Isles,
Guyana, Colombia, Mosquitia, the Bay and Gulf of Honduras, &c., 1839.

Volume VIL — The New Sailing Directory for the Ethiopic or Southern Atlantic
Ocean ; comprehending the Coasts of Brazil, &c., from Maranliam to Cape Horn ; the
Coasts of Guinea, &c. from Sierra Leone to and beyond the Cape of Good Hope, and
including the islands between the two Coasts. 1837.

NEWFOUNDLAND, &c.

»f the late
, and to be
subjoined'
ic Seas to
of Africa ;
ther inland

leneral Cliart
I'igation fiom
. 2. Sailitig
cotland, ivc,
343. 4. For

342. 2. For

ir Spain and
ecliterrHnean
tine division
r iilack Sea;

;'harts of the
»avigaiion of

|ry for New-

CoLOMBIAN

les : Vol. i.
[illas, Wind-

Iribbee Isles,

lern Atlantic
Horn ; the
Hope, and

*^* TnnoucnouT this Work, the given Longitude is the Longitude i-rom CiRien-
WKH. Tnr. Br.ARiNGs and Courses are those wy Compass, in less where
otherwise expressed: l]t;T those given thus [E.N.E.] signiiy the true;

AND THE GIVEN DIRECTION OF \\'lNn, TiDE, AND CURRENT, IS TO BE CONSIDERED
AS THE TRUE. ThE GIVEN DEPTHS ARE THOSE AT LOW WATER, SPUING TIDE.

Variations of the Compass. — The Magnetic Variation in the Environs of St.
John's is from 26 to 27 degrees West : in Bonavisla Bay, from 28 to 20 dep:rees.
In the years 1833-4, near Cape Ray it was 24 degrees West: at the Isle of St. Paul,
23° 45' : Magdalen Islands, 23=: Eastern point of Prince Edward Island, 21° : Pictou
Harbour, 19°: Sydney Harbour, Breton Island, and Cape Breton, 22°.

Const of Labrador.— Wr^dore Harbour, 34° 15' W. : Red Bay, 35° 30' : Little Meca-
tina,30°3O': off Kegashka, 27° 45' : Mingan Island, 26° : Eastend of Anticosti,25° 30' :
West end of the same, 24° 30'.

River St. Lawrence.— S>cvcn Isles, 1>4° : Cape de Monts, 22° : Father Point, 19° 15' :
PortNeuf, 18° 20': off the Isle Bic, 18° 40': at Tadousac, on the mouth of the Saguenay,
17°: Isle aux Coudres, 16°: Quebec and Isle of Orleans, 15°: Trois Rivieres, 11°:
Lake St. Peter, 10° : Contrecour, 8"' 45' : Montreal, 7° 45'.

Nova Scotia, Sec. — At Halifax it is 17.J degrees ^V. : off Mahone Bay, 17 degrees:
near Liverpool Bay, 16 degrees: Cape Sable, Seal Isles, 14 degrees: at St. John's, New
Brunswick, 16 degrees; and Penobscot Bay, 12 degrees, W.

I._Of the winds, currents, ICES, and PASSAGES
TO NEWFOUNDLAND, NOVA SCOTIA, and NEW
BRUNSWICK, &c.

1. or THIS WINDS. — Th5 Variable Winds which prevail over all the refi;ions
liereafter described, are too generally known and understood to require a particular descrip-
tion. The superficial currents are actuated accordingly, and they vary with winds which
may probably be prevalent at a remote distance, and produce that swell of the ocean by
which they are commonly preceded.

We have heretofore had occasion to notice that, to the southward of Newfoundland shifts
of wind are very common ; and it has frequently happened that, after blowing a gale upon
one point of the compass the wind suddenly shifts to the opposite point, and blows equally
strong. It has been known that, while one vessel has been lying-to, in a heavy gale of
wind, another, not more than 30 leagues distant, has at the very same time, been in another
gale, equally heavy, and lying-to, with the wind in quite an opposite direction. This,
upon Mr. Redfield's theory, is to be understood as applicable to two vessels falling under
the two opposite sides or portions of the same storm.

In the year 1782, at the time the Ville de Paris, Centaur, Ilamillies, and several other
ships of war, either foundered, or were rendered unserviceable, on or near the Banks, to-
gether with a whole fleet of West-Indiamen, (excepting five or six,) they were all lying-to,
with a hurricane from E.S.E. ; the wind shifted in suddenly to N.N.W., and blew equally
heavy, and every ship lying-to, under a square course, foundered.

The winds within the Gulf of St. Lawrence are not so liable to sudden shifts as on the
outside, or to the eastward, of Breton Island. The weather to the southward of the
Magdaleii Islands, between them and Prince Edward Island, is generally much clearer
than on the North.

Meeting or the two SrAS.-7-Tlie brig Hecoveuy, Captain T. Hamlin, on her return

GENERAL REM AUKS AN'D DIRECTIONS.

I'ii

I'm

!;.

1'-' '

from New Orleans toward Greenock, 21st April, 1822, was proceeding K.N.E. on tlio
parallel of 40° toward llie Grand Hank. In the first part of the twenty-four hours the
weather was moderate, a breeze sprung up at west, and the vessel made all sail. In the
middle part strong gales succeeded, still at west, and sail was reduced. At one a. m.
black and gloomy, with rain. At ,'), a strong gale fiom the eastward took the ship aback,
and drove lier astern against the o!d sea : it struck the boat, and broke the larboard davit,
and a new sea rising with the shift of wind, tlie two seas met in dreadful confusion. With
a scend forward the brig dipped the jib-boom under, and broke it otf in the cap ; and, with
the scend aft again, stove in the cabin-window. While all hands were employed, trying
to secure the boat, repeated seas struck her, and at length raised her above the stern, and
unshipt the other davit. They then held on the tackle-fall that was fast to her, and dropped
her astern, with the iiope that a favourable opportunity might occur for taking her in, but
she filled and broke adrift. From 5 to 8 the wind continued to blow a gale; sometimes
at East, then at West, and back again repeatedly ; while the vessel was quite unmanage-
able, and lying exposed to the contending elements. At 8 «. m. the easterly wind prevailed,
and the vessel was then laid-to under close-reefed main topsail, &c. Lat. at noon, by ace.
40° 2.^', long. 53'^ 0'. Atone, />.///. of the '22d it became calm: the vessel then drifted
with the sea, going round and round : but on the next day the wind was fair at S.VV. and
the brig proceeded eastward.

At one, ft. m. on the 23d, a sensible change in the atmosphere find sea was experienced :
from which it was concluded that the Recovery had entered on the Grand Bank. At
day-light the colour of the water was found to be altered, and a numerous quantity of ice-
birds and niurrs were upon it.

On the 31st of October and 1st of November, 1822, the llecovery, on her return from
New Orleans to London, at 3.^ degrees more to the southward, and nearly on the same
meridians, met with heavy squalls, a strong gale from the N.W., and a high cross sea, which
continued for nearly twenty-four hours, and to longi'ude 48°. Here.ibout, therefore, all
the seaman's spirit, vigilance, and skill, are required.

Between the meridians of 52° and 47° W. 28t!j to 31st July, 1823, Captain Hamlin, in
the ship George IV., from the S.W., crossed the parallel of 40" N., all moderate and
pleasant weather, with N.W. and westerly winds.

Ship George IV., 3d April, 1824, homeward. " Squally and unsettled, with lightning.
At noon, lat. 40" 14', long. 50*^ 33'. Next day, variable, with heavy showers. On the
5th, heavy showers of hail, succeeded by a smart breeze from the North. Lat. at noon,
40° 28', long. 46^°."

PHENOMENA westward of Newi-oundland, as described by Captain Bayfield. —
Among the difficulties of the navigation in the Gulf of St. Lawrence are the fogs and ices.
In spring the entrance and eastern parts of the Gulf are frequently covered with ice, and
vessels are sometimes beset for many days. Being unfitted for contending with this danger,
they often suffer from it, and are occasionally lost ; but all danger from ice is far less than
that which arises from the prevalence of fogs. These may occur at any lime during the
open or navigable season, but are most frequent in the early part of summer; they are rare,
and never of long continuance, during westerly winds, but seldom fail to accompany an
easterly wind of any strength or duration. This observation is, however, subject to restric-
tion, according to locality or season. Thus winds between the south and west, which are
usually clear weather winds above Anticosti, are frequently accompanied with fog in the
eastern parts of the Gulf. Winds between the south and east are almost always accom-
panied with rain and fog in every part. E.N.E. winds above Point de Monts, at the mouth
of the river, are often E.S.E. or S.H winds in the Gulf, being changed in direction by the
high lands of the south coast, and have, therefore, in general, the same foggy character.
This is said of winds of considerable strength and duration, and which may extend over
great distances. Moderate and partial fine weather-winds may occur without fog at any
season, and in any locality. In the early part of the navigable season, especially in the
months of April and May, with clear weather, N.E. winds are of frequent occurrence, and
they sometimes occur at other seasons, in every part of the Gulf and river.

The fogs sometimes last several days in succession, and to a vessel either running up or
beating down, during their continuance, there is no safe guide but the constant use of the
deep sea lead, with a chart containing correct soundings.

The fogs which accompany easterly galea extend high up into the atmosphere, and cannot
be looked over from any part of the rigging of a ship. They however are not so thick as

%■

.4'

(JENERAL HEM AUKS AND DIRECTIONS.

v.. on tlie
hours \\n;
I. Ill the
one rt. m.
hip aback,
)ard davit,
on. Willi
and, witli
•ed, tryinc:
stern, and
id dropped
ler in, but
sometimes
unmanage-
l prevailed,
on, by ace.
lien drifted
I S.VV. and

;perienced :
Bank. At
ilily of ice-

relurn from
1 the same
5 sea, whicli
lerefore, all

Ilanilin, in
iderate and

lightning.
On the
t. at noon,

lYFIEI.D. —

and ices,
ith ice, and
[his danger,
ir less than

iiring the
!y are rare,
>mpany an

to restric-

which are
[fog in the
lys accom-

the mouth
[ion by the

character.

:tend over
fog at any

jUy in the
[rence, and

ling up or
luse of the

Imd cannot
I) thick as

■H:

those which occur in calms after a strong wind, and which are frequently so dense as to
conceal a vessel within hail ; whilst the former often, but not always, admit the land or
oilier objects to be distinguished at the distance of half a mile, or more, in the day-time.

The dense fogs which occur in calms, and even in very light winds, often extend only to
small elevations above the sea ; so that it sometimes happens, when objects are hidden at
the distance of 60 yards from the deck, they can be plainly seen by a person 60 or 60
feet up the rigging. In the months of October and November the fogs and rain, that
accompany easterly gales, are replaced by thick snow, which causes equal embarrassment
to the navigator.

During the navigable season, the prevailing winds are either directly up or directly down
the estuary of St. Lawrence, following the course of the chains of high lands on either side
of the great valley of the river. Thus a S.E. wind in the Gulf becomes E.S.E. between
Anticosti and the south coast, E.N.E. above Point de Monts, and N.E. above Green
Island. The westerly winds do not appear to be so much guided in direction by the high
iiiiids, excepting along the south coast, where a VV.S.W. wind at the Isle Bic has been
seen to become West, W.N.W. and N.W, on running down along the high and curved
south coast, until it became a N.N.W^ wind at Cape Gaspe. These winds frequently blow
strong for three or four days in succession ; the westerly winds being almost always ac-
companied with fine dry clear and sunny weather; the easterly winds as frequently with
the contrary, cold, wet, and foggy. In the spring the easterly winds prevail most ; frequently
blowing for several weeks in succession. As the summer advances the westerly winds
become more frequent, and the S.W. wind maybe said to be the prevailing wind in summer
in all parts of the river and gulf. Light south winds take place occasionally; but north
winds are not common in summer, although they sometimes occur. Steady north winds
do not blow frequently before September, excepting for a few hours at a time, when they
generally succeed easteily winds which have died away to a calm, forming the com-
mencement of strong winds, and usually veering to the S.VV. The N.W. wind is dry, with
bright clear sky, flying clouds, and showers. After the autumnal equinox, winds to the
northward of west become more common, and are then often strong steady winds of
considerable duration. In the months of October and November the N.W. wind frequently
blows with great violence, in heavy squalls, with passing showers of hail and snow, and
attended with sharp frost.

Thunder storms are not uncommon in July and August ; they seldom last above an hour
or two ; but the wind proceeding from them is, in general, violent and sudden, particularly
when near the mountainous part of the coast; sail should, therefore, be fully and quickly
reduced on their approach.

Strong winds seldom veer from one quarter of the compass to another directly, or nearly
contrary: in general they die away by degrees to a calm, and are succeeded by a wind in
the opposite direction. It is not here meant that they may not veer to the amount of several
points. N.W. winds seldom or never veer round by north and N.E. to east and S.E. ;
but they do frequently, by degrees, to the S.W., afier becoming moderate. S.W. winds
seldom veer by the N.W. and north to the eastward, but sometimes by the south to S.E.
and east. Easterly winds generally decrease to a calm, and are succeeded by a wind from
the opposite direction.

In the fine weather-westerly winds of summer, a fresh topgallant breeze will often de-
crease to a light breeze or calm at night, and spring up again from the same quarter on
the following morning : under these circumstances only may a land breeze off the north
coast be looked for. The same has been observed off the south coast also, but not so
decidedly, nor extending so far off shore. Captain Bayfield adds, '* I have occasionally
carried the north land-wind nearly over to the south coast just before day-light, but have
never observed the south land-wind extend more than five or six miles off, and that very
rarely. Under the same circumstances, that is, with a fine weather- westerly wind going
down with the sun, a S.W. land-breeze will frequently be found blowing off the north
coast of Anticosti at night, and during the early part of the morning. If, however, the
weather be not settled fair, and the wind does not fall with the sun, it will usually prove
worse than useless to run a vessel close in shore at night, in the hope of a breeze off the
land. Such is the usual course of the winds in common seasons, in which a very heavy
gale of wind will probably not be experienced from May to October, although close reefed
topsail breezes are usually common enough. Occasionally, however, there are years the
character of which is decidedly stormy. Gales of wind, of considerable strength, then

ill

GENERAL KEMAllKS AND DIUECTIONS.

follow each other in quick succession, and from opposite quarters. The marine barometer,
which is at all times of great use to the navigator, becomes particularly so in such seasons.

2. CURRENTS) Sec. — It has been shown in our volume on the Navigation of the
Atlantic Ocean, how the Currents generally set, from Hudson's Strait, &c., to tiic
Eastern Coast of Newfoundland, and through the Strait of Bell-Isle into the Culf of
St. Lawrence. Hence it may be seen, that they also affect the western navigation of the
island; and, with the vast ebb of the Iliver of St. Lawrence, which constantly sets down,
with great strength, into the Gulf, they produce an accumulation of water, which can
escape by the southward only. In the early part of the year, when the snows and ices are
in a melting state, the outset must be considerably increased ; it may, tiierefore, be pre-
sumed, that there is, in this season, a considerable efflux or stream of water from the Gulf,
setting to the south, S.W., and south-eastward.

Captain Pornton, a commander who has long sailed in the Newfoundland trade, states
that a branch of current, which appears to come from Hudson's l?ay, always sets to the
south-westward, off the eastern coast of Newfoundland : sometimes with a velocity of two
miles an hour. Its strength, however, varies with the direction and force of the wind.
Passing down the eastern coast of Newfoundland, it turns round Cape Race, and sets
thence, along the south side of the island, until it meets with the current from the St.
Lawrence, a little to the westward of St. Pierre and Miquelon Islands. The combined
action of these two currents, with that of the Stream to the southward, may, perhaps,
produce that counter current which has been found along the inner edge of the Gulf-
Stream : but, be this as it may, it is very probable that it is owing to the influence of the
Hudson's Bay current that so many shipwrecks happen on the south coast of Newfound-
land, about Cape Pine, &c. For ships coming from the St. Lawrence and thence along
the coast of Newfoundland, meet this current ; and, if it happen that they have calms, or
light or head winds, it sets them imperceptibly to the westward of tiieir reckoning; and
when, supposing that they are to the eastward of Cape Race, they alter their course more
to the northward; should the weather, as it often is, be foggy, they get on shore at a time
when they consider themselves clear of the land.*

At times, it seems, the westerly current may extend farther than the limit above described.
In a letter from a captain of the Royal Navy, dated Breton Island, 13th May, 1822, we
have the following expressions : — " It frequently happens that a ship bound from England
to Quebec, strikes soundings on the Banks of Newfoundland, and shapes her course thence
to pass between Cape North, on Breton Island, and Cape Ray, on Newfoundland, into the
Gulf of St. Lawrence, without seeing the land, which is hid in fog; and, unable to make
a proper allowance for a current that sometimes runs at the late oi' four miles an hour, is
swept away to the westward, and runs, with a leading wind, on our iron-bound shores,
when her commander fancies he is steering directly into the gulf; a misfortune that is too
often announced by the bodies of the unhappy mariners, and the fragments of their vessels
with which our shores are strewed.

" It should be made known that there is a settlement on Aslipe Harbour, to the south-
ward of Cape North ; as, from want of this information, many an unfortunate seaman has
perished from cold and hunger, after escaping shipwreck ; and that vessels of any draught
of water may safely anchor all round the island, as wind and weather may require. The
soundings, at half to three-quarters of a mile, are 7 and 8 fathoms." f

But, to revert to the currents. The British frigate, Tweed, on her passage to St.
.John's, Newfoundland, struck upon the coast, near Cape Spear, and was wrecked in
the night of the 5th of November, 1813. This event, most probably, was the effect of an
unknown south-westerly current, or a current setting south-westward, toward Cape Race.

To different currents must be attributed the loss of the sloop Cotnus, the transport
llarpooner, H. M. ship Drake, the brig Spence, and the Marshal Maedonald, all of which
were lost, at different times, upon one spot ; the li'ile bay, called St. Shot's Bay, on the
south coast of Newfoundland, and lying between Cape Treels and St. Mary's Bay.
The particulars of all these melancholy events are detailed in the follovving paragraphs.

' Substance of a communication to and from the late Mr. Wm. Heron, of Greenock.

I Wc trust that (lie Liplitliouses icceiUly established on the island of St. Paul, and which have
been described, will materially contribute to facilitate this otherwise dangerous navigation.

GENERAL UERIAIIKS AND J)IUtCTIONS.

laroineter,
seasons.

ion of tlie
:., to tlic
e Gulf of
ion of the
sets down,
,vhich can
id ices are
e, be pre-
1 the Gulf,

nde, states
sets to the
city of two
' the wind.

e, and sets
om the St.

combined

f, perhaps,
f the (iulf-
?iice of tiie
Newfound-
lence aloncf
3 calms, or
)ning; and
oiirse more
re at a time

e described.
1822, we
m England
urse thence
id, into the
>le to make
un hour, is
jnd shores,
tluit is too
eir vessels

the south-
seaman has

iy draught
luire. The

ige to St.
,' recked '\\\
Iffect of an
Ipe Race.

transport
ll of which
Bj/, on the
Iry's Bay.
[graphs.

ifhich liavc

** The Currents about Newfoundland are yet imperfectly understood, and among the
first notices of them are some Remarks given by M. de Cassini, wiiich ought, long since, to
have been generally known. This voyage of M.de Cassini was undertaken fur the purpose
of making experiments on M. Lo Hoy's timekeepers, in 1708. The frigate V Enjouce
sailed from Havre de Grace on the 14th of June, and the mist over the (Jriat IJank was
discovered on the 0th of July. On the 11th soundings were found at 84 fathoms, and a
tod was cauijht. The tish and the plummet came up almost at the same instant, and con-
firmed the ship's furival at the Uaiik.

" The very next day after we had reached the Bank of Newfoundland, the fog and calm
overtook us: this is the weather that commonly prevails there.* As the calm continued
the whole day, we employed the time of this inaction in fishini;.

" The fourteen days we spent from our arrival at the Bank to our landiii-, were one con-
tinued series of fogs, which made us very uneasy. The great immber of ships liiat crowded
about the Hank, kept us in continual apprehensions of running foul of son)e of them in the
fog. Besides, having been for several days unable to observe the latitude, we durst not
advance, from fear of striking against the bars of Cape Race. Our charts placed us about
the longitude of those rocks, and the computed latitude brought us pretty near them. 'J'iiese
last days of our first run were the worst we had yet met with, and indeed the worst of the
whole voyage. Transplanted into a horrid climate, constantly choked with fogs, we seemed
to be, forever, excluded from the sight of the sun ; nor could we hope to land, whilst this
fog intercepted the coast. It was dangerous to go in search of the shore, even when the
mist seemed to be dispersing. It is no uncommon thing in this latitude to see the finest
clearing succeeded by a prodigious thick fog, and this within half an hour. Then the pilot
repents his having approached the land, misled by the appearance of a clear sky, esj)ecially
if he has not had time to take a survey of it ; how can he get clear, if the wind is not very
favourable? What track shall he pursue to escape running aground? Such are the
inconveniences and hazards of navigation, in the latitudes we were then in ; and we were
not long before we experienced how critical our situation was.

" We waited only for the instant when the weather should clear up, to go and recon-
noitre the land, from which we deemed we were not far distant. We thought we Iiad at
last attained the summit of our wishes. On the 22nd of July, the finest sky imaginable
filled us with hope and joy. The horizon, thougli not quite so clear as we could have
wished, seemed, neveiUieless, to promise a sight of land at five or six leagues distance.
Cpon the strength of this delusive appearance, we ran directly toward the landing-place,
with a brisk wind ; but how great was our amazement, when, without discovering any
land, we suddenly perceived, at a small distance before us, the dashing of the waters,
wiiich could only be occasioned by the coast, or by rocks or breakers, which the fog
concealed from our sight. No time was to be lost ; we tacked about, and made all the
sail we could, to get away from a coast where it is dangerous being wind-bound, on
account of the violent currents, which may drive the vessel asliore, if she has the misfor-
tune to be becalmed. Happily for us, the wind favoured cur fiight, and we made for the
Great Bank, there to wait, till a less fallacious change of weather should permit us to go
safely in quest of land.

" This we had an opportunity of effecting two days after, by the finest weather ima-
ginable. Nothing is more gloomy than the sky darkened by that thick and damp fog, as
nothing is more beautiful than that very sky, when a north-east wind drives away the fog,
and exhibits a well-terminated horizon. The sun was not yet risen, when the mist, which
had been constant all the 23d, dispersed in an instant; a clear sky and a fair wind
determined us to make directly for land. We set sail at two in the morning ; at eight v.e
discovered a small eminence rising in the most distant horizon. At noon the figure of
this, and several other points, which appeared as we drew nearer, made us conjecture
that the land we saw was the coast of Newfoundland, and that this first eminence was
the Chapeau-rojige, or Red-hat. However, we were still too far off to judge with any

* At and about tlie Great Bank, these horrid fogs infest tlie air most part of the ytar, and will
last eight or ten days successively, sometimes longer. In winter tlicy are not so frequent ; but from
the middle part of spring to December, they arc almost constant : they arc, at times, .so tliick, that
one cannot ,sec at ten fathoms distanrc. An incessant rain drops from the sails and rigfi;in(f. 'J'hf
sea is seldom rough about llic Great Hank. The sailors commonly ask those who come from the
fipci! sea, " JIow h llic wcatlio abroad^'''

■ «

!!!

rli

!« !

j
i

i ,'

I !

ii,

I i

GENKUAI. UEMAIIKS AND DIUIXTIOX S.

ceitaiiity ; hut at four in tlie afieniooii, being but four Icai^ues distant, wc plainly saw we
wore not mistaken. Tiie Uediiat, aiul, in ueneral, tlie wlioU; coast of Newfoundland, is
very sleep, and rises very far above llie level of the sea : we first discovctred it at near 16
leagues disiance. The ships that sail in this latitude commonly take notice of this
mountain, its form being very distinguishable."

The CoMis, lost in St. Sliol^s lUiy, — The Comus, above mentioned, was lost in the
night of the 'J4th of October, 10 Hi, at the entrance of St. S/iat's liai/. At .ten o'clock,
it was supposed, " from reckoning and double altitude, (which was taken that day,) they
were on the inner edge of the Gieen Bank; sounded, and found that they were in 25
fathoms of water, the exact depth on that bank as laid down in the Admiralty charts,
which they referred to ; but, for the greater safety of the ship, it tlien blowing very fresh,
hauled her wind, with the head cff-shore, and stood on under easy sail. At forty-live
minutes past eleven, struck on a reef of rocks, extending from the eastern head bf St.
Shot's Bay, into the sea, owing to the amuz'uii; bulravg/it into the different hui/s, and which
threw the ship out of her reckoning. The helm was immediately put down, and the sails
braced aback, to get sternway, when she was unfortunately caught by a rock, on the lar-
board quarter, and bilged before the boats could be got out ; every exertion was used to
save the ship, but in vain. At the same time, the weather was so foggy that little more
than half the ship's length could be seen."

The Harpoon ER, lost at St. Shot's Bay. — The Harpooner, which was lost on the 10th
of November, 1816. On the 26lh of October, detachments of the 4th lloyal Veteran
Battalion, with a few belonging to other corps in Canada, in ; all 380, embarked on board
this ship, and sailed from Quebec for London, on the 27ih. On the passage to the Gulf
of St. Lawrence, moderate weather and favourable winds prevailed ; but, on arriving in
the gulf, the weather proved boisterous, and the wind contrary. Not a sight of land, nor
an observation of the sun, could be depended on for several days. On Sunday evening,
November 10, at a few minutes after 9 o'clock, the second mate, on watch, cried out, * the
shifts aground .'' at which time she lightly struck on the outermost rock of St. Shot's. She
beat over, and proceeded to a short distance, when she struck again, and filled. Encircled
among rocks, with the wind blowing strong, the night dark, and a very heavy sea, she
soon fell over on her beam-ends, and the dreadful consequence may be readily imagined.
We cannot attempt to describe it; and shall only add, that it may be found in BeWs
Weekly Messenger of December 22, 1816.

It is worthy of particular notice that, the two wrecks occurred within three weeks of
each other; and it is an extraordinary coincidence that they should happen upon the same
spot. Can we doubt that they were produced by similar causes ?

After the publication of these lamentable particulars, it was hardly to be expected that
similar events were again to occur on this fatal spot ; but the melancholy loss of his
Majesty's ship Drake will long be remembered.

II. M. S. Drake, lost at St. Shot's. — The Drake sailed from Halifax on Thursday
morning, the 20th of June, 1822, for St. John's Newfoundland. The weaUier being
uncommonly fine, and the wind favourable, she continued to steer a direct course for
Cape Race : on Sunday morning it came on extremely thick, with a fresh breeze from
W.S.W. ; at noon it cleared up for about a quarter of an hour, just giving time to get a
good observation of the latitude, which agreed very well with the latitude by account. At
the time we supposed ourselves, by our reckoning, to be 90 miles from Cape Race. At
six in the evening, having run about sixty miles since noon, and finding the fog still
continued, we hauled out four points, intending to have steered S.E. during the night;
about half-past seven o'clock, all hands being on deck, breakers were reported to be
a-head ; the ship was instantly hauled to the wind ; but, not being able to clear the
danger on that tack, we endeavoured to stay the vessel ; but, from the heavy sea, and
whilst in stay, her stern took the breakers, and she immediately fell, broadside on, the sea
beating completely over her ; the masts were immediately cut away, with the view of
lightening the vessel, as well as affording a bridge to save the crew, but without success in
either point ; for in a few moments, she bilged, at which time there did not appear the
slightest hope of saving a man. The cutter was launched over the lee-gangway, but
immediately sunk. A man attempted with a lead-line to swim on shore, but the current
setting strong to the northward, he was nearly drowned in the attempt. The only hope
remained in the gig, the jolly-boat having been washed away, which was launched in the
forecastle; with the boatswain and lead-linc ; a heavy surf washed her upon a rock not

i..

saw we

[Hand, is

near 16

of tliis

jt in the
o'clock,
ly,) llicy
re in 2Cy
y cliarts,
2ry fresh,
forty-five
ad bf St.
nd which
I the suils
w tiie lar-
> used to
Itle more

) the 10th
I Veteran

on board

the Gulf
rriving in

land, nor
■ evening,
1 out, * the
ot's. She

Encircled
y sea, she

imagined.

1 in Bell's

weeks of
1 the same

lected that
iss of his

Tliursday
llier bein;^
course for
leeze from
to get a
lount. At
Itace. At
\e fog still
[he night ;
Irted to be
clear the
sea, and
1, the sea
le view of
Success in
jppear the
Tway, but
lie current
inly hope
led in the
rock not

V.V.SVMAJ. HKAr.MlKS AN'l) DIllFCTIONS, 7

communicating with tlic main, and daslied her to pieces, an<l the hue was carried away;
but the boatswain sncceoih'd in scrambling up the rock witii a few fathoms of hue. The
sea at this moment making heavy breaches over the shi|i, the crew were on tiie forecastle,
hanging by the ropes, each succeeding wave appearing to bring with it total dosfriiction,
when a tremendous sea lifted her (piarter over the rock on whicli she first struck, and close
to another comparatively sheltered. The fun^castle, hitherto the most shelteiod part of
the ship, was now ai)andoiied for tlie rock; and, all hope of the vessel being gone, it was
determined, if possil)le, to quit liei. Tiie people severally stepped from the poop to the
rock ; in attempting wiiieh, a few (among wliom was Lieut. Stanley) were washed away,
and daslieJ with tremendous force against the wreck. C! apt. Haker, after seeing the whole
of the crew on the rock, followed ; but it was now f ui that the rock was insulated, and
the rising tide would cover it. The boatswain, observ. ig this, swam with the piece of liiu?
in his^possessiori, and, in spile of the surf, succeeded in reaching land ; and, coming
opposite the rock on which we were, threw the line across : il was found just long cnougli
for one to hold upon the main, and one on t!ie rock at arm's length : by this trilling
assistance forty-four out of lifty landed on the rock, succeeded in gaining tlic main ; and
it is probable all would, had not a man and a woman attempted to cross together, which
took the line out of the man's hand on the rock, and, in the attempt to get it back, it was
washed away. Capt. Baker was repeatedly requested to cross, but every time resolutely
refused, ancf, throughout tiie whole unfortunate occurience, to save the lives of the crew
appeared lobe his principal object, regardless of his own. Every instant the water rose,
and the surf increased, when the othcers and ship's crew used every endeavour, by tying
handkerchiefs together, to make another holdfast ; but, proving too short, we were soon
reluctantly compelled to abandon them to their fate; and, at day-break, there was not the
slightest trace of the unfortunate sufferers. At this time we found the frame of the wreck
broken in halves, witii the after-part thrown on the top of the bow. On discovering we
were on tlie easlein head of St. Shot's, we repaired to a house we found there, after having
in vain scaiclied for the body of Capt. Baker; and then proceeded, after a little refiesli-
ment, to Trepassey. The only reason for so many lives being saved, certainly was from
the great order and discipline of the ciew. Every man's exertion appeared to be, not for
his own life, but for the general good. Had any confusion prevailed, there is little doubt
but few would have remained to tell the mournful tale. Tiie end of those left upon the
rock was truly melancholy ; for it is probable they might have remained half an hour
after the line was gone, the tide rising rapidly, and their inevitable fate approaching nearer
every instant. Captain Baker died peculiarly regretted by both officers and the crew : his
uniform kindness and attention to every individual on board, during the whole of his com-
mand, made a deep impression ; and it will be long before the recollection of him and of
his untimely fate, will be effaced from the memory of the survivors."

The Sprxcr, lost at St. Shot's. — The brig Spence, of Sunderland, 30.5 tons, M. Wilson,
master, from Ilichibucto, bound to Liverpool, with lumber, was totally lost near St. Shot's,
on the IGth of .luly, 1822, at four in the evening : but the crew were saved, and arrived at
St. John's. The narrator says, '' Scylla and Charybdis could not have been more ter-
rifying to the mariners of old, than will the name of St. Shot's shortly be to our modern
navigators. It is certain that, on the small extent of coast which divides the two bays of
St. Mary and Trepassey, more vessels are lost than on all North America beside ; yet no
steps appear to have been taken by Government, or any institution connected with any of
our shipping interests, to ascertain the cause, or to guard against it in future. The cost of
any one of the men of war which have been wrecked within these few years would have
maintained a small military post for the purpose of firing fog-guns, or a bell might be so
constructed as to toll at intervals."

The Marshal Macdonai.d, lost at St. Shot's. — The Marshal Macdonald, a vessel
with fifteen hands and a passenger, sailed from Quebec on the 8th of November, 18.3;").
In the night of December 2, off the island of St. I'aul, she shipped a sea which carried
twelve persons overboard, of whom three perished, and all were nearly suffocated by
the sea passing over them. Next morning the mate, carpenter, and cook, were seen on
deck, frozen to death. The vessel was now totally water-logged, and entirely at the mercy
of the sea. The sufferings of the remaining crew, however sympathy mav dictate, wc
need not describe. On the night of the 7th of December, the vessel was' driven upon
the fatal rocks of St. Shot's Point, and in this struggle for life three others perished.

These events imperiously demand an inquiry into the causes. The five vessels, it may
be seen, were all from the westward, and all, it may be presumed, were set to the north-

PASSAC.KS OVKK TMK ATLANTIC

ward, us well as to the westward, of tho situations which they wcro siipposod to occupy,
and the route which each intended to pni^iie. They can, at present, he accounted for
only by the supposition of currents winding round the coast, opposing each other, and
operating as above explained.

Cuuur.NT from the (iui.r of Sr. Lawiiknct. — It has been alre.idy shown that the
waters of the St. f.awrence run otf partly to tlio S.W. from Breton Island ; so that here,
likewise, allowance for a westerly set is to be made: for, as .Mr. Di-rby, the superinlendant
of the island, lias said, " On the South side of Saulk, Isr.AM), tlie Ciirniit, in shoal
water, with prevailing South and .S.W. winds, sets rapidly eastward unid it leaches the
end of the N.Iv Bar. It then unites and blends with the St. Lnwrincc Strrtiiii, which
passes the Hiir in a S.S.W. direction, and runs stron'„'est in April, iNIay, and June. I
liave sufhcient reason for believing that the (Julf Stream, on the |)arallel of 12° .'JO',
running E.N.K., occasions the St. Lawrence Stream, then running S.S.W., to glide Jto
westward. The strength of this stream has never been noticed, and three-fourths of the
vessels lost on Sable Island have been supposeil to have been to the eastward ui Xhti island,
when, in fact, they were in the longitude of it."*

The effect of currents off the South and S.Vv\ coasts of Newfoundland, may still, it
appears, without great precaution, prove fatal to many vessels. " It seems,'' says Mr.
.lelfery, " to be impossible to make a sure allowance for them : for while allowing for
them in one direction they may be setting on the opposite one. The lead appears to be
the only thing of any advantage. During three weeks, while we were on this coast, we
had the wind from all points, and all brought thick h izy weather and rain.''

PASSAGES FROM ENGLAND, cS:c.

On referring to our Chart of the Atlantic Ocean, it may readily be found that, from
the Laud's End aj' England to St. .Johns, Newfoundland, tlir Miie bearing is W. -1° S. ;
and, from the same point to Cape Sahle, or the S.W. end of Nova-Scotia, it is about
W. 9" S. liut the circumstances of Navigation, in genera',, render a direct course more
tedious and difficult than a circuitous route ; and the best passages have been made by
pursuing a high northerly course.

It seems probable, from all that we have said on the Winds and Currents, that, on
prosecuting a north-westerly course, from the Bank of Channel Soundings, the winds
and currents, respectively, may counteract and balance each other ; that, on a farther
prosecution of the same course, the winds will be found less westerly, and therefore more
favourable, than in the more southerly parallels : and that, in advancing toward the mouth
of Davis's Strait, the advantages both of wind t.i.d current may be combined.

Caution must be taken not to advance too near the Eastern coast of Newfoundland, if
bound to New Brunswick or the Southern ports ; nor to the Eastern coast of Breton
Island, as here the vessel may be swept round by the strong westerly currents, which have
been described, and which, when understood, instead of producing mischief, may prove
highly advantageous in facilitating the ship's course.

The propriety of these arguments has been confirmed by experience, in one hundred
and four passages made to and from New Brunswick, &c. by Lieutenant Chas. Hare, of
the Royal Navy, of which the last was in the year 1842. Annexed is a copy of that gen-
tleman's communication.

" Ships from Scotland, in the spring of the year, and bound to New Brunswick, have
always arrived sooner than those from the English Channel, which is attributed to their
being more to the northward on leaving the land.

" Ships from Liverpool generally arrive before tho.se which sail from the English Chan-
nel, the cause being the same.

" In the Spriko of the year, I would never go to the southward of latitude 46° 6r 47°
until 1 reached longitude 37° or thereabout ; then edge to the southward as far as latitude

* The current from the Gulf is commonly supposed to set south-eastward, if not checked during
easterly winds and calm weather, when it runs in the contrary direction : but the winds both here
and at a distance possess so powerful and irregular an action as to render the set very variable. —
Capt. Bayfield.

I I

' ,«<

TO NOIllH AMKUICA.

3 occupy »
uiitt'd for
iIIkt, and

n tli:it tlie
tliat Ihtp.
rinlendant
, iti shoal
radios tlio
(iiii, which
June. I
r 42° 30',
^\U\e 'to
rlhs of the
the inland,

lay still, it
says Mr.
lowing for
pears to be
i coast, we

that, from
W. .1° S. ;
it is about
ourse more
en made by

3, that, oil

the winds

n a farther

Irefore more

liie moutii

)undland, if

of Breton

Iwlnch have

may prove

lie hundred
Hare, of
)f that gen-

svvick, have
2d to their

tlish Chan-

|46° 6r 47°
as latitude

Icked during

Is both here

variable.—

; •

than in tin Sprii^i.
i^eht.'rall teer to
the loop >4e ao°,

lind ac;air i course
If hi-n . U^ llah-

il/irth\vai-<vl of Sal)lo

4iJ*^ ill ordiT to avoid llu.' ire-l»ei>;!<, k ■-■• > vory strict look out; this )),.\ illfl (4"?°) 1

should tiideavoui to prt'servc, or imm;1\ nt nothiiii; to tin- soutliwaid, until u. '<•

Capo IS:d)le, Nova Scotia; for it can i •^ i'<asaf.« and proper distance from N ,|e

Isli.iid, a place that cannot l)c too much i.. od. ' > this track you will lie w idhon' the

iiortlieni cd.:i' of the Ciult'-Strcam, and assist* I by u south-' ^stcrly current from tl.c hank*
until past that island.

'• In the Fa I I, of the year, mv track is far ore to the orlhward
On ieavini,' the land as late as tlu; inidille of ( u'lober, or , 'reui.AUi
the north-westward until I get as far north as 55", and until 1 ei
llion edze to iIm' southward, to tutor the Fianks in latitude 16", s
to pass about sixty miles to the southward of Sable Island, as al">
fax, and very sure of my latitude, I mi;;iit bo toni|p|ed to pass to t
Island; but, at all events, it would be at a throat ri.-k ; and I should iiul, imd f any cir-
cumstances, recommend a stranger to altumpl it; as the weather is mostly toiigy, and the
set of the currents unaccountable. 'I'lio soundings on Han(iueroau are incorrectly laid
down ill every chart that I have yet seen ; beiii:;, in fact, within one hour's sail of the
N.K, liar of Sal>lo Island ; from which cause I onco very narrowly escaped shipwreck.
Numerous gannets are always hoveriiiLjf about this island, and are a very excellent indica-
tion of your near approach to it, particularly on the South side,

" Hy crossing the l>anks thus tar North, you will linil the advantage as you approacii
the longitudes of Newfoundland and Nova-Scotia: the strong N.NV. and North gales
having then commenced, yoii will fre(iuonlly be compelled to lie-to for two or three days :
and should then insure suiHcienl drift, before you are blown into the strong influence of
the Ciulf-stream ; which wouhl be the case at a few degrees to the southward, and inevi-
tably in a S.S.K. direction, at an inconceivable rate. Last November (IH'24) the rase
occurred : the vessel being hove-to, under main-to|)sail and storm-trysail, to the westward
of the Banks, in latitude 45", and was, in four days, swept into latitude 'M{°, conse-
quently into the Gulf-stream ; when the longitude became also considerably afi'ected,
and I took the first oj)portunity of making a N.N.W. course, to get out of it as soon as
possible.

" To prove tlic advantages of a northern track, late in the fall of the year, I may notice
that I have, in one or two instances, read, in the American newspapers, the accounts
of very long passages experienced by shif)s which met heavy gales in tlie latitudes of 1^5"
and 38°, when several vessels were disabled, and others suhered loss of sails ; yet, on the
same dm/, in latitude 54°, 1 had moderate weather from the N.N.K. with top-gallant
studding sails set ; which strongly encourages me to believe that the blowing weather,
incident to approaching winter, commences southerly, and inclines northerly as the season
advances, and not the reverse ; an hypothesis generally formed by English ship-masters,
but, in my opinion, certainly erroneous.

" I am farther of opinion that the influence of die Gulf-stream, in the i)arallels from
latitude 35° to 42°p whether from the warmness of the water or other natural causes,
has a strong tendency to attract the wind from a western direction ; as I have invariably
found the wind more alterative in the northern latitudes before-mentioned than the
southern ones; and it unquestionably must be allowed, by all mariners of any observa-
tion, that gales experienced in the CJulf-stream, or its vicinity, blow with much greater
violence than they do in that part of the northern Atlantic not under its influence : be-
sides, the squalls from the southward or *S.W. are much more sudden and heavy, and
near the Banks they are attended with dangerous lightning. The thermometer (an in-
strument easily understood) is of the greatest importance for ascertaining your approach
to it; and, if bound to the West, I would for my own part, endeavour to avoid its effects
as cautiously as 1 would a lee-shore : for it may be depended on, that no ship, however
well she may sail, will effect westing in the Gulf-stream with a wind from that quarter ;
arid it is to be remembered that its velocity is accelerated according to the strength of those
winds ; and its extent in breadth, at a few degrees to the westward of the Azores, is many
more degrees dian is commonly supposed.

" Tliese observations, I hope, may be useful to my brother mariners engaged in these
voyages ; and permit me to say, that they are grounded on the experience of at least one
hundred times crossing the Atlantic, in his Majesty's and the merchant service, and in the
command of vessels in both ; at one time, in one of nearly four hundred tons burthen, the
Waterloo, owned in St. John's, New Brunswick ; and, as the Custom Books at Liverpool

PASSAGES FROM KNGLAND, &C.

•I '1

! .' ji

can testify, landcil four full cargoes in thirtct'ri followirif; moiitlis ; wliicli, iiicludint; tli»*
time r('(|uii'(.'<t tu discluirge tlio same, then luadeil outward tu St. Jolin's, ttiefe,di.sc'liarK»-
and load lioint; u^ain, leaves hut very little time for the ship to cross the Atlantic ei|.;lit
times in fuurtocn months, wliicli, in fact, was done.

" Still further, in corrohoralion of my approved northern track, allow me to observe that,
in the fall of IH'J.'J, l>y keepni^; in a hi^h latitude, the bri;,' Ward, myself master, also
owned in New Urunswick, performed a voyage out and home in seventy-two days. The
same vessel likewise, on the 3rd of October, in24, left the Knglisli Channel, and arrived
again ai the Downs on the IJrd of January following.

" I must add that, a strong well-found and well-manned vessel alone can perform these
voyages ; for they must be maintained with unremitting attention and perseverance.

" The necessity and propriety of the above; remarks was particularly exemplified by the
Ward, which, on her passing through the Downs, in 18'24, I'.fl ships there which were
bound to the westward, weather-bound, and found them there on her return, having been
driven back by adverse winds; while she, getting out of the Channel, performed with ea.se
a prosperous voyage to St. Jolin's, New Urunswick, and back, exactly in three montiis,
assisted by chronometer, thermometer, &c.

" In the month of June and beginning of July, and sometimes later, the ices from the
Arctic Seas are frequently coming down from the northward in dangerous masses. In
the same season the tishing vessels are very numerous upon the Bank, on and about the
parallel of 45° N. ; consequently, vessels bound to the eastward, from Nova-Scotia, &c.,
will avoid both, and most safely cross the Grand Bank, at this time of the year, by keeping
in, or not proceeding to the northward of, latitude 44"."

The preceding remark, by Captain Hare, has been enforced by the pen of an intelligent
writer,* who has said,

" Although the voyage to and from North America, between the parallels of 60° and
40°, has always been attended with a degree of peril, from masses of ice which drift to
the southward, during the summer months, from the polar regions, yet many an unwary
mariner makes his run across the Atlantic without any apprehension of meeting these
floating dangers, or without sufficiently exercising a proper discretion and vigilance to
guard against coming in collision with them. This is not mere conjecture, but the in-
formation of persons who annually perform the voyage, beside the result of my own ob-
servation, in accidents which have repeatedly occurred to vessels between Newfoundland
and England, and in the number of missing ships on this route. Commanders of ships
should therefore bear in mind the imperative necessity there is for using their utmost
vigilance and attention when crossing the above-named parallels, especially between the
meridians of 30° and 60° West, to guard against coming in contact with these formidable
dangers of the ocean.

" The New York packet ships, well supplied with every essential equipment, and
elegantly fitted for the accommodation of passengers, when making their winter voyage
from Liverpool, keep in high latitudes until nearing Newfoundland. This they do for
the two-fold object of avoiding the tempestuous weather so generally experienced to the
southward, and of obtaining fairer winds ; and thus, by slipping within the mighty stream
from the Florida Channel, they evade its retarding influence. The voyage by this route
is shortened ; and, although bad weather must be expected, it is not so violent as farther
south ; besides which, the eastern current is avoided. I believe it is an unusual thing to
meet with ice in this part of the Atlantic in the winter ; but we have the following recent
instance to the contrary, so that a look-out should be kept in that season, as well as in the
summer, by vessels making the voyage.

" It appears that the Emulom packet, on the 26th of February, 18.33, met with much
field ice on the coast of Nova-Scotia; and in the latitude of 43° N. and long. 49° W.,
those on board were much surprised by falling in with a large quantity of strongly packed
ice, which reduced the vessel's way to 6^ and 7 knots, from sailing at the rate of 9 knots,
under close-reefed main-topsail and reefed foresail. On the 4th of March, she fell in with
three bergs, of large dimensions, in a run of 95 miles; and at nine the same evening she
was obliged to pass between the two easternmost of these before heaving-to for the night;

I', .

;''!'!

i'l

' /tUantica i' Nautical Magazine, June, 1833.

ludiii^ tlif
!, disctiarKc
antic viKlit

l<servc that,
lastLT, also
lays. TIh-
iiul arrived

rform these
nee.

ificd by the
which were
laviiiK hern
d wiiii eiuse
ee months,

es from the
uasses. In
1 about the
Scotia, &€.,
, by keeping

n intelligent

of 60° and
hich drift to
an unwary
ig these
vigilance ti)
but the in-
ly own ob-
foundland
ers of ships
leir utmost
between the
brmidable

iment, and
nter voyage
ley do for
need to the
ghty stream
this route
as farther
lal thing to
wing recent
1 as in the

with much
49° W.,

ugly packed
of 9 knots,
fell in with
evening she
the nighij

icr>Mi:n(;.s and ices.

'''V

after which, l)y keeping a more northerly course, no more of these dangerous floating
masses were .seen.

'• From al! accounts it seems that the greatest danger is to he ap)irohende<l in the \i(inity
of the Hanks of Newfoundland ; and this, as every n.ivigalor knows, is increased by a dense
fo;; which generally perva<les the atmospliere in that ({uarter, and, of course, shortens the
di.slanci' of vision to a very circumsciil)ed hinit."

The following note has been lately introduced in our Charts of the Atlantic Ocean.

" I('IC-Mi'",U(iS and I(is. — In the season bclwecn March and July, those vast masses
of ice and Iriincndous ice-bergs, wliicli descend with the current from llie north-western
regions, are found upon and to the euslwaid of the Newfoundland Kank, soineinnLS even
to the parallel of 40° North.

" The indications of an ice-berg are, — I. A natural eiruli^ence, which frcriiiendy renders
them vi.sible, at some distance, even in the darkest night. At a short distance this ellid-
gence may appear like a white clou<l, extending over, or nearly over, the vessel's masts.

" '2. A considerable decrease in the temperature of the water, as shown by the thermo-
meter, in compiirison with the heat of the adjacent sea and with the air above.

*' The roaring of the sea at the base of a berg, which, excepting in a steamer, with its
paddles in action, may he heard, by an attentive listener, when afar off.

" To fast sailing vessels, and steamers in particular, these monitions may be useful.
Snch will, therefore, in the season, avoid the higher parallels of latitude, as prudence may
dictate." A kv^thencd course, on a soiit/icr/j/ puiallel, between the meridians uf 42'^ and
56° may insure safety.

The Ice-blink, or effulgence of light emanating from, and seen over, congregated ices, —
the formation of ice-bergs, — and the general phenomena of the Northern Ocean, — are
copiously described in our * Memoir^ and Nautical Instructions for that Ocean, pages 43
to CI.

The season of 1842 was peculiarly distinguished by the efflux of the Nortliern ices, and
brief notices of the following facts are subjoined as additional cautions to future navigators.

The HARVEST IIOINIE and Lady of the Lake, wrecked in 1833.— On the 11th of
May, 1833, the Lima, ('aptain Mardon, sailed from Newfoundland. On the morning of the
13th of May, in lat. 40" 20', long. 4:)° 50', when ibout 400 miles from Newfoundland,
being completely surrounded with ice, their attenti m was aroused by hearing a gun fired,
shortly after which they descried a boat at some distance. The Captain instantly hove-to,
till the hitter came alongside, when he took the individuals in her on board. They reportecl
themselves to be the second mate and twelve of the crew of the Harvest Hinne, Captain
Hall, of Newcastle, from London, for Miraniichi. They informed Captain Mardon, that,
on the 9th of May, the Harvest Home was struck by a piece of ice, which stove in lier
bows. All hands were immediately put to the pumps, by which means they succeeded in
keeping the vessel afloat for two days, at the expiration of which time the second mate and
twelve of the crew quitted her in the long-boat, the captain and first male having come to
a determination of remaining on board. After they had been out one niglit, being loth to
leave the latter in such a perilous situation, they returned to the vessel and requested the
captain and male to leave her, but they persisted in their determination, saying, "That they
would slick to her while a timber remained afloat.'' They had, however, got tlie jolly-boat
ready in case the danger should become imminent. The crew having again pushed off
they became bewildered amongst the masses of ice by which they were surrounded, and
totally uncertain what course to sleer. On the next day they again fell in with their own
vessel, which they had mistaken for another sail. This time they found that the captain
and mate had left her. Two of the crew now went on board ; and while they were busy
endeavouiing to get more waler^and provisions, they were surprised at the sight of a boat
containing about thirty individuals, approaching in an opposite direction ; they immedi-
ately boarded the vessel, having, as subsequently appeared, done so in the hope of succour.
They proved to be the captain and crew, and part of the passengers (including two females)
of the Ladi/ of the Lake, of Aberdeen, bound from Belfast for Quebec, with upward of
two hundred passengers on board. Those who had boarded the wreck of the Harvest
Home, when they saw the state she was in, with her hold full of water, made a simulta-
neous rush to return to the boat, which was at that moment pushed off, and several of them
were preci^jilated into the water. One of them, however, was fortunate enough to make

I'll I.'

ICt-BKIlGS AND WES.

his leap into the bout wliich contained the crew of the Harvest Home, and he arrived
ill Liverpool, in tlie Lima. IIo states, that the Lady oftlie Lal<e struck upon the ice, and
immediately filled, when the captain and crew took to the boat, leaving the sinkincj vessel
crowded with the remainder of the despairing and shriekinsr passengers, to the number of
one hundred and sixty or one hundred and seventy. The crew of the Harvest Home state,
that after they left their vessel the last time, they saw nothing more of the other boat.
Several of the individuals who had fallen into the sea wlien the latter was pushed off were
drowning, but it was impossible to render them any assistance.

The PRESIDENT, IGil — The celebrated and unfortunate President, steamer, sailed
from New V'ork, March lllli, IGtl, with II'O persons, and has not since been heard of,
nor the least vestige of her discovered. It has since been conjectured, either that she
parted a-midships from want of strength beneath the great weight of her machinery, or,
more probably, from a sudden and impetuous collision with an iceberg, by which, stern
foremost, she instantly foundered, with all on board. Tiie first opinion is, however, the
most generally prevalent.

The WILLIAM BROWN, 1S4\.— The mi/iam Brown, from Liverpool to Philadel-
phia, struck on an iceberg and foundered in April, 1841. On striking, the passengers anfl
crew instantly took to the boats ; thirty-three passengers, the mate, and eight of tlie crow,
to the long-boat ; the captain, three of the crew, and eleven passengers, to the jolly-boat;
all the rest sunk with the vessel. The boats parted in the night; and some days after, the
mate anil crew determined to throw seventeen of the passengers overboard, in order l<>
lighten the boat, which they accomplished in a most horrid and revolting manner. One
hour after this catastrophe the ship Crescent fell in with them, and saved the survivors.
Of the jolly-boat no more is known !

The GREAT WESTERN, April, 1811.— Tiie" Great Wt.stern," steam ship, Captain
James Ilosken, on Sunday the 8lh of April, 1811, at 6 p. m. steering west, saw an ice-berg
on the starboard bow ; at 7h. 30 m. passed it; at tiiat time four or five others were in
sight; at 9 h. 1,5 m. passed several small pieces of ice. In a few minutes after, the ship
was surrounded with light field ice, and went on slowly, with the hope of getting through,
but it became much thicker, and closely packed : but, at 10 h. 15 m. she succeeded in get-
ting her head to the eastward, and by II was entirely clear. Prom that time went slowly,
passing several ice-bergs : the night at times very clear : the a\irora borealis very bright.
At 3 h. 30 m. of the next morning, again embayed in the ice ; stopped, hauled short round
on the keel, and steered out E. by S., coasting the ice for five or six miles ; at 4 h. 20 m.
kept her to the westward, running through innumerable ice-bergs, until 8 h. 30 m, when she
passed the last ice-berg and point of the field ice.

When the sun arose the ice was visible as far as the eye could reach, in an unbroken line
from N.E. by E. by the northward to N.VV. by W. : at the same time, ice-bergs innumerable
and magnificent were seen in every direction.

These ices were to the S.S.E. of the Grand Bank of Newfoundland ; the first seen was
in latitude 43°, longitude 48^'', and the last in lat. 42^ 20', long. 50*^. There appeared to
be an unbroken field of that extent, and it seems to have extended to lat. 40^°, where it was
seen on the morning of the 18th by Captain Bailiy, in the American packet ship ' United
States.'

Captain Ilosken, in his report, adds, " Several other ships fell in with it in the same
longitude, and were entirely stopped, giving them an opportunity of killing seals, vvhicti
were on it in great numbers."

Some of the ice-bergs were estimated by Captain Ilosken as little, if at all, less than a
mile long, and from 150 to 200 feet high. This field of ice was in large masses, some of
them not less than 20 feet square by six feet thick, or more.

The temperature of the water, when within two miles of the ice-berg first seen, fell sud-
denly from 50 to 36 degrees ; air, 40 to 36 degrees.

When in the ice the water was 25°, air 28°. During the remainder of the night and the
following morni-.g the water was not higher than 30" nor the air higher than .'^''*. Imme-
diately after passing the last ice the water became 36 and the air 42 dec^iees.

The LONDON, arrived at Liverpool, 3rd June, I3H, struck, un the i2lh of May,
against an ice-berg, near thcS.E. side oftlie (Jiand Bank, in latitude 43°, long. 50^°, stove
in the larboard how, and lost bowsprit, mam-topmast, '*^cc. > . • ^

■'4

GULF OF ST. LAW II P:\CE.

l»e arrived
e ice, and
ins vessel
number of
onie state,
tlier boat.
1 off were

ler, sailed
heard of,
r that she
linery, or,
liicli, stern
wever, the

Phil;idel-
ieng;ers antl
f the crew,
jolly-boat ;
's after, the
in order to
iner. One
! survivors.

ip, Captain
an ice -berg
ers were in
er, the ship
ng through,
ded in get-
k-ent slowly,
very bright,
short round
4h. 20 m.
0. when she

broken line
inumerable

st seen was
ippeared to
[rhere it was
lip ' IJniled

in the same
pals, which

less than a
bs, some of

|n, fell sud-

tht and the
'. Imme-

»i of May,
kOi°, stove

In the same season, the Juliet, from Newfound! uid, was a forlnigiit locked up in the
ice, without seeing water.

^)RF1IKUS, Pauline, and Isahkli. a.— Captain Cole, of the Oip/icus, who arrived at
New York, in June, 1841, reported that, in latitude '17' 30', long. 4<)", weather fogoy,
found the ship among ice-bergs, and continued sailing among ice for five days. Some were
100 feet high, and fields several miles long. Was obliged to steer south to got clear of it.
The Uromenese ship Vniilinc fell in with several islands of ice on the 18th of May, one of
them a berg 160 feet above the water and two miles long. The ship Isabella, Meredith,
from London to (Quebec, was struck by an ice-berg on the 9lh of May, in lat. 42° 2', long.
43" 4,")'. The ice broke through the bows, and caused the' ship to fill with water so fast,
thnt the crew had barely time to take to tiie boats, without vvater, provisions, or clothing.
The ship immediately went down, or disappeared in the fog. The crew continued in the
boat, at the mercy of the waves, tmtil the afternoon of the 1 1th, when they were picked up
by the Kingston of Hull, bound to I'ictou, and kindly treated. They arrived at Pictou,
one man excepted, who died in the boat.

The ACADIA, in 1842.— On the 16th of May, 1842, Captain Alex. Ryrie, in the
Acadia, off the eastern side of the (irand Bank, in latitude 46'', longitude 47°, saw nearly
a hundred ice-bergs, some of them of large size, and one bearing so strong a resemblance, in
shape and apparent magnitude, to St. I'aul's in London, that it was at once named after
that celebrated calhetlial. The dome was perfect, and it required no extraordinary stretch
of imagination to supply the turrets, pinnacles, and other parts of the building. On the
homeward passage of the Aradia to Liverpool, June ()th, the same object was seen, and the
immediate exclamation on board was, " There is our old friend, St. Paul's." In the interin\
between the two views the ice-berg nad drifted about 70 miles.

In our ' Atlantic Memoir,' 18 10, pages 426 to 429, we have given a detail of many other
instances in which ships have been lost or materially damaged by the ices ; and we particu-
larly recommend to notice the important remarks of Lieut. Evans, R.N., given in page
429 of that work.

PRESERVATION of Liie at Sea.— We shall conclude this part of our subject by
noticing that, on die 20th of September, lo4C', it was announced that a letter had been
received at Lloyd's, from Lieut. Edw. Jennings, R.N., suggesting the general adoption, in
rough weather, of life-lines being led fore and aft, both to windward and leeward, so that
the men may have something to lay hold of in passing from one end of the vessel to
anodier. In addition to this, he advises that each man be furnished with a belt, made
gasket fashion, about a fathom and a half long. Tlie utility of this is shown by the wearer,
when in an exposed situation, such as on tlie forecastle, conning, steering, ^c, taking two
half-hitches witii it, to cither tiie life-line or any of the standing rigging, &c. lie observes,
that such a belt could not interfere with t!)c wearer's duty aloft, as at such times the end
might be wound round the body and tucked in, so as to avoid inconvenience to the
wearer. This hint is worthy of serious notice, and is creditable to its author.

GULF OF St. LAWRENCE, &c.— Those bound to the (Julf of St. Lawrence, after
passing to the soudiward of the Virgin Rocks, on the Grand Bank and the Island of St.
Pierre, should keep a middle course between Newfoundland and Breton Island; not for-
getting what has been heretofore said on the Winds and Currents; recollecting, also,
that the harbours on the coast, westward of Fortune Bay, are impeded vvidi dangers;
there are many rocks about the entrances, and most of the harbours are imperfectly
known. The rocks are not to be seen in thick weather, and fogs very much prevail
on the coast.

Commanders hound to the Gulf will do well to observe that, off the SouUi ('oast of
Newfoundland, between the meridians of 56° and 55° o5', and the parallels of 4^" 10' and
46° 15', is a deep gully in the sea, extending in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction, and
separating the Bank of St. Pierre from die Green Bank. The method adopted by the French
vessels bound to St. Pierre, for- making that island, is as Jollous : —

From the longitude of 52° \V., in latitude 45°, they steer a N.W. course (by compass)
which carries them across the Green Bank, in about 43 and 44 fathoms of water ; and,
when on die meridian of 55" 15', in about 45° 47' N. they suddenly deepen their water,
from 40 to 80 faUioms. A farther run on die same course, of about ten miles, carries them
across this gully, when they shoalen their water again to :i} and 30 fatlioms ; and, after a
farther run of 23 mile.s, they steer about N.N.E. directly for the island, and seldom ornever
miss it, (Sec the Chart.)'

•^

il,l I

If!

! i(i

ISLAND AND BANMiS 01' NEWFOUNDLAND.

Those wlioliave lost their reckonings, on (iiiding this gully, which mny bo known by tlic
water shoaling on the cast and west sides of it, an experiment that is fVecinently made for
ascertaining whetlier they are actually in it or not, may safely take it as a /m/i departure.
Commanders, not being aware of it, when lliey have found their water deepen from the
Green Hank to the westward, have imagined themselves eiiterinu: the Gulf of St. Lawrf

rence ;

and, by steering a course too far to the northward, iiave been lost to the eastward of Cape
Hay, on the rocks of Newfoundland. The lengtii of tlie gully is about sixty miles, in a

N.N.E. and S.S.^^■. direction (by compass), and the middle of it is in latitude 4,5° 3

a
, iind
longitude 55" 20'. — Coniinumcntion of the French Cominandaut to Captain !Sir likhard
Grant, R.N. 1833, corrected hi/ the new Chart.

The little island of St. Paul, which lies to the north-eastward of Cape North, now distin-
guished by its lighthouses, is bold-to, steep, and high; and, with a good look-out, in the
<lay-time, cannot be considered as dangerous even in thick weather. The land of Breton
Island is very high, and though fogs are about it frequently, it is seldom so much obscured
as not to be seen in time. On entering the (iulf, the Magdalen and Bird Islands will be
seen, as they lie in the direct course from Cape North to the River of St. Lawrence.

There is, in clear weather, a safe passage between the Bird Islands and the Magdalens';
but, in thick weather, it is advisable to keep either to the southward or northward of both,
as the wind may permit.

In Pleasant Bay, on the S.E. side of the Magdalen Islands, there is a clear and good
anchorage, very near the shore ; and it is a very safe place for vessels to ride in, with a
westerly wind, and infinitely preferable to beating about in tlie Gulf with a foul wind.
There is a safe passage into it between Amhc st Island and Entry Island, as fully explained
hereafter.

As the weather to the southward of these islands, between them and Prince Edward
Island, is generally much clearer than on the North, the passage that way is preferable,
particularly after the early part of the year, when S.W. winds mostly prevail.

II. The island and BANKS of NEWFOUNDLAND.

GENERAL REMARKS. — Newioundland is, in general, a variegated and rugged
country. The shores are indented by broad and deep bays entering from forty to fifty
miles into the body of the island. The western coast is generally rugged and lofty, but the
eastern side of the island consists principally of 1 w hills. The climate is humid, and
especially disagreeable on the setting in and breaking up of winter, and when tne fields of
ice, which float from north to south during the months of April and May, are near the
coast, and the wind is from seaward. The heat in summer is often very great. There are
tracts of alluvial soil along the banks of the rivers, but, from the nature of the climate, agri-
culture will always be a secondary branch of industry, as the fisheries on the coast are a
more profitable pursuit than the cultivation of an inhospitable soil.

In the solitary tracts of the island the most perfect silence prevails. At times the wind
falls to a calm, and the sky appears cloudless. At such a time the Aurora by night appears
occasionally in all its splendour, and its rays appear to proceed, not from any point in
the north, but shooting upward at right angles to the surface of the earth. The effect of
this exhibition in the sky is reflected in the still waters with majestic brilliancy.

The population is estimated to amount to 100,000 persons, of whom between 80,000 and
90,000 are of British and Irisli descent, the remainder being composed of French residents
and a hundred or two individuals of Indian blood.

" It is generally supposed in England that Newfoundland is constantly enveloped in
fog and wet mist ; nothing, however, can be farther from the truth. The summers are
frequently so hot and dry, that from want of rain the grass perishes ; the summer of 1840
was one of these; — and the nights are usually splendid; whilst, in winter, fog is very
rarely seen.

" Winter may really be said to commence here toward the latter end of November only ;
the fires are comfortable adjuncts during most of that month, and its severity begins after
Christmas, runs through January and February, and becomes less and less stern until the

,^1

•..4

I ^4'!

ISLAND AND BANKS OF NEWFOUNDLAND.

n by tlic
Tiade for
jparture.
troin tlie
iwrence ;

of Cape
iles. in a
' 35', and

Richard

jw distin-
lUt, in the
af Breton
1 obscured
ds will be
ce.

agdaleiis';
•d of botli,

and good
in, with a

foul wind.

r explained

ce Edward
preferable,

.AND.

md rugged
irty to fifty
|fty, but the
|uniid, and
ne fields of
ire near the
There are
jimate, agri-
coast are a

bs the wind
tht appears
hy point in
|he effect of

:$0,000 and
th residents

ivelopcd in

Immers are

2r of 1840

fog is very

Inber only ;

legins after

until the

♦■<■>(

middle of April, when it ceases altogether. In the winter of 1840, ploughing was going
on after (Jiiristmas. The winter of' 1841-2 was unusually changeable, and deluges of
r:ii/i, storms of wind, and some share of snow, characterised it. March was also a very
cold month, and characterised by an unusually furious snow storm.

In 183G the number of acres in cultivation was 11,062, and their produce 10,300
bushels of oats, above a lillion bushels of potatoes, and nearly 7000 tons of hay. The
number of horses was lo.l, of horned cattle 5835, and of sheep 3103. The inhabitants
are for the most part dependent for provisions upon importation. In fact, if it were not
for the fisheries, the island would not probably be settled at all; and as it is, large num-
bers resort to it only during the fishing season, and leave it during the winter. The
settlements are all upon the coast, the grand occupation of the population being exclusively
in the fisheries, and in those branches of industry connected therewith. The peninsula of
Avalon, on the S.E., which is united to the main l)ody of the island by a low isthmus little
more than three miles wide, is the chief seat of the population, tlie settlements on the
other coasts being few and far between, and of little individual importance. In these latter
settlements, from their little intercourse with each other, the character of eiicfi is singularly
diversified, preserving traits of their origin as distinct as if they had been formed yesterdiiy.
The original settlers were cithei from .lersey, England, Scotland, Ireland, or France, and
their habits vary accordingly.

The extent of the fisheries and oil trade is very great. In 1841 more than 1000 sail of
vessels entered, and more than 950 left the ports of the island, leaving out of the reckoning
the numerous schooners and small craft engaged in the actual fisheries, which amount
during each season to somewhere about 4500. In the British fishery each year are engaged
never less than 30,000 seamen, with 10,000 boatmen and curers ; and 140,000 tons of
produce are annually exported, Britain and her colonies receiving the largest share, while
continental Europe and the United States also take great quantities. Cod, mackarel,
herrings, capelin, cods' tongues and sounds, salmon, train-oil, seal-oil, seal-skins, some
little poultry, with staves, constitute the chief items of export.

The largest portion of the exported cod-fish is caught near the island, the banks being
now chiefly occupied by French and Spanish fishermen. The export trade in 1840 was
915,795 quintals of dry cod-fish, (each quintal or 100 pounds of dry fish made from three
hundred weight of fresh or " green " fish,) 3,206,58(5 gallons of train and seal oils, 63 1 ,385
seal skins, 3,396 tierces of salmon, and 14,()86 barrels of herrings, which with minor
articles were valued at £983,961, being an increase on the previous year of £'82,596.
The importations consist of salted provisions from Ireland and Germany ; biscuit from
Germany ; flour from the United States and \he North of Europe; Indian-corn meal from
the United Slates, &c. The total value of the imports for 1840 was £784,045, an increase
on the preceding year oi upwards of £73,488.

The City of St. John is the principal settlement, and the only considerable town in
the island: it is the seat of government, and the bishopric, and chief harbour for the
British vessels. Explicit directions for entering are given hereafter, but the following
Remarks in addition may be acceptable. The entrance to St. John's Harbour is through

the " Narrows," a strait

runnmg in a N.W

by W. direction about half a mile long, and

220 yards across in the narrowest jjart, with rocky precipitous heights of 500 feet on each
side. There are front 9 to 12 fatlioms of water in the middle of the channel, with toleiably
good anchorage ground. The harbour then opens by a turn at right angles, and runs in
a S.W. direction for a mile and a quarter, and in front the city of St. .lohn appears climbing
up a hill, from Fort William to Fort Townsend, between which are seen the government
house and St. Thomas's church; the former a plain pile of dark stone work, the latter a
singular wooden edifice with a curious steeple. The ridge of hills on the S.E. side of the
harbour is 750 feet high, and on the opposite side of the Narrows is a continuation of the
same ridge, called Signal Hill, 510 feet high, on which is the citadel, to which place all
vessels are telegraphed from Cape Spear on their first appearance ofl'that place. On Fort
Amherst on the South Head, at the entrance of the Narrows, is a brilliant fixed light.
At two-thirds the distance from the entrance to the Iiarbour itself, is a rock, on the north
side, called the Chain Rock, which with Pancake Island on the opposite shore, contract
the entrance at this part; and between them a chain can be stretched when required, to
prevent the entrance of any hostile fleet. In addition to this, the fortifications before
mentioned, other batteries which command the entrance, and the Crow's Nest, a small
battery perched on the lop of a pyramidal mount on the N. of the entrance of the harbour,
render the place perfectly secure a^jainst any sudden attack.

16 ISLAND AND liAXKS OF NEWFOUNDLAND.

The city consists ol' lori}:^, iiiPtfular, and in some places voiy narrow, streets, the prin-
cipal one being called Walor slri;et, whieli has luicn nnicli improved of hUe years. Duck-
worth street, the next preat parallel to Water street, is also iniproviny ; and there arc
seveial lateral streets, hut St. John's has not yet arrived at mnch arcintectural embellishment.
It stretches for abont two miles alonK the harbour, and the 'ground risin;^ about 120 feel
from the sea, causes many of tlio side streets to be inconveniently steep. The principal
fccTture of the city is its multitude of wharfs and fishing stages whicli line the shore, which
with its nnpainted wooden houses give it a sombre and dismal appearance. The city
contains 15,0UO inhabitants.*

' 'S I

ii "r

;'■!'

T/ir I'utranre In St. Jolin's Ilnrhour.

Conception Bay, to the northwestward of St. John's, is t!ie richest and most populon?
country district in the island, containing, altogether, abont o(),000 iidiabitants, who are
distributed in a number of villages or fishing and agricultural hamlets. Upon the small
island, named Bell hie, in this bay, wheat flourishes and ripens well ; as do potatoes,
oats, iiay, and vegetables. This spot is, therefore, considered as a nursery garden for
the neighbourhood.

ToiiUnguet or Tivillingate, in the Archipelago of Erploits, is the most northerly British
settlement in the Island.

The Banks, which have been, in their fisheries, the source of all the opulence in the

* The Order in Council, 1S29, which declared St, John (Newfoundland) a free warehousing
port, completed the system wliich was meant to Ijc established by a similar measure with regard to
Quebec, Montreal, Halifax, Nt. John (New Brunswick), Pictou, Charlotte-town (Prince Edward's
Island), and St. Andrew's. Ui\der the operation of those jiorts, flour and bread stuffs were before
imported and bonded for export with a certain duty, but they had not the privileges of British colonial
productions in the home-market. The necessary effect was, however, to encourage British shipping,
and to give it a considerable portion of the American carrying trade. The new Customs Act provides
for securing the American carrying trade much further, A clause permits inasts and timber gene-
rally to be imported free into the North American colonies from the United States, and allows it the
privileges of British production into the I'lnglish market. More of the British shipping is said to l)e
employed in the timber than any other trade, and no doubt was entertained that the clause in
«|uestion would have the effect of encouraging it. The principal advantage of the last change will,
however, fall to the ports of the lower provinces. — Ncicipa/jer, IS2i(.

i jii7

ts, the prin-
\Ts. Duck-
d tliere arc
bellislniier.t.
)ut 120 feet
ho principal
iliore, which
;. The city

lost populous
uits, who are
ion the small
do potatoes,
garden for

tlierly Britisli

ilence in the

ISLAND A\n HANKS OF NEMFOUNDLAXl).

island, are vast submarine elevations, of various depths and very uneiiual ti^ures, as
shown by tiie (Ihart. Tiie depths on tiie Great Bank vary from l.'i to HO fathoms. The
quality of the bottom varies considerably, bnt it c^eneraliy consists of sand, or sand mixed
with shells and gravel, rarely with stones. The eastern faro of the r)aiiks is a clear sand,
white or whitish, and often sparklintr. In the gullies and deeps which separate the bunks,
and rnoie particularly in the Whale Deep or Trou de hi Haleine, the bottom is found to
consist of mud or oaze with a fetid smell, and abounds with ditiereiit sorts of fish ; but more
particularly with cod, which is inconceivably lumierous ; for, allhougii fiom 'JOO to 400
vessels have been annually freighted wi'h this article of commerce for nearly two centuries,
there appears to be no sensible decrease of the former plenty. A great swell and thick fog
usually indicate the place of tiie bank.

The cod are usually most abundant where tlie bottom is sandy ; and the least so where
it is muddy. The best depth for them is between 30 and 40 f.uhoms, or less water. In
the months of February and April, the fish, which in the winter retire to the deepest water,
come on the banks, and fatten quickly.

The great fishery generally commences on the banks about the 10th of May, and continues
until the end of September. Towards the middle or end of May the first shoal of herrings,
called by the natives, spring-herrings, appear on the coasts. These are caught in nets and
used as bait. In the middl of June, the capelin, a delicate species of salmon, come in,
and last till the middle of July, and with them commences the height of the fishery. Towards
the end of July and beginning of August the capelin leave the shores, and the young squids
or cuttle-fish succeed them in myriads, and supply their place ; and when these are over,
they are succeeded by the fall-herrings, or the autumnal herring shoals. This is in Sep-
tember, and is the close of the fishery.*

There are, generally, in the spring, within 125 or 130 leagues of the land, and between
the Outer and Grand Banks, numerous ice-bergs, or ice-islands, that float down with
the current from the north-westward, and which, during the foggy weather, are very dan-
gerous : even in the months of June, July, and August, there are frequently a number of
them : some of which may be seen aground, in 40 or 50 fathoms of water. In thick
weather, the place of these may commonly be distinguished by the ice-hlink, a brightness
of the sky above them ; or by the breaking of the sea against them, which may also be
heard at a considerable distance ; or by the decrease of the temperature of the water, as
shown on page 11. f

• In Mr. M'Gregor's work, entitled "British Anwrica," 2 Vol. 1S32. is given a copious descrip-
tion of the mode ol'lishinp; on the i5anks, the nietliod of curing, Src. , as shown rilso.in tlic "Nautical
Ma^nziin','" June, 1832, page 190. — See iiho Jukoss " Exrursiona in NcirfoioKllaud,"' 1812, vol. i.
page 228, and l^onnycastle's " Ntiij'oundhuid in IS 12," vol. ii. page KiO.

i5y tlie Treaty of Utrecht, 1713, tlie French retained tlie liberty of fishing off die coasts, and of
drying their nets on the sliorcs of Newfoundland, within certain limits ; and, by the treaty of 1703,
they may also fish in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, but not witliin the distance of tlirce leagues from
any of the coasts belonging to Great Hritain.

By tlie treaty of 1783, it was defined that, the subjects of France were to enjoy, imder tlie re-
strictions of the previous treaties, the fislicries on the casterti, northern, and western, coasts of
Newfoundland, from Cape St. Jolin to Cape Hay ; aud this concession was confirmed bv the treaty
of 1814.

By Convention with the United Statf.s, of the 20th of October. 1818, the people of the said
States, renouncing previous claims, have, for ever, in common with British subjects, tho liberty of
taking fish on the southern coast, between Cape Kay and the Kaniea Isles, and oti the western and
northern coasts, from Cape Ray to the (iuirpon Isles ; also on the shoies of the Magdalen Islands,
and on the coasts, bays, harbours, and creeks, of Labrador, from Mount Joli through the Strait of
Bell-Isle, and thence northward, indefinitely, along the coast, but withoiu prejudice to the exclusive
rights of the Hudson's Bay Company; and the fishermen of the United States have liberty, forever,
to dry and cure fish in any of the nnsedlcd hays, harbours, or creeks, of the southern parts of New-
foundland, above desciibed, and of the coast of Labrador, but so long as unsettled only, without
previous agreement with the inhabitants, &c. — See, farther, the large Map of the Canadas, Nova
Scotia, Newfoundland, &c., published by the proprietor of this Work.

f August the 2nd, 183C, the ship Bynm, from Liverpool to New York, heavily laden, and having
on board 119 or 120 persons, was suddenly struck in a dark night, by an immense iceberg, estimated
at more than 100 feet high, near the edg'e of the Grand Bank, in lat. 41° 22', long. 48" 40'. For
some time, in a scene of terror, all was considered as lost. The bowsprit was carried away ; and
the stem pressed down by the overhanging column of ice : but, happily the hull was sound, and with
day-hght the vessel righttd. On the next day three other mountains of ice were .seen.

The progress of these ices confirms the existence and direction of the Arctic or Drift current fioni
the North, as shown in our Memoir on tiie Atlantic Ocean.

VIRGIN HOCKS.

'■vM

ij'

\l.

•.HI'

i 11

' .0

ii 111!!

On appioncliing tlie banks, tlif>re will generally be founti a number of sea-fowls, as
vialimauks, ronclies, and divers. Tbe lasl-incntioiied are seldom found at more liian ',\0
leagues from the banks ; but malimauks, and several otlier kinds, are frequently seen during
the whole passaue ; although not so numerously elsewhere as in the vicmity of the banks,

VZRGrZN ROCKS. — In approaching toward Cape Race, (the S.I', point of
Ncuf'oundland,) be careful to avoid the fiifi'in llockn, a dangerous reef, lying 20 lca.rues
S.IC. ] Vj. [hJ.hi/ .S'.] f:om tlial cape. In gales of wind a heavy sea breaks over them ;
and a strong current, which sets about them, often increases the danger.

The existence of the Virgin llncks having been (piestioned, it is proper to communicate
the following extract of a letter, addressed by Arthur Kemp, master of the brig Indifina, of
Dartmouth, to tlic publislier of the Ncwf(mHilland (uizctte : — " On the i'Jc' of October,
ISi.!, at noon, I left Cape Hroyle, after a strong gale from S.K., with the wind at W.N.NV.
steering S.K. by S. The following morning, at fi a. in., having run 84 miles, I was
alarmed with the cry of ' hrcakcrs a-liend,' and almost immediately saw them to such an
alarming extent, as obliged me to alter tlie course from S.K. by S. to E. by N., it not
being possible to clear them im the other tack. After giving the breakers a good berth,
and leaving them to the southward, distant four miles, I hove the main top-sail to the
mast, and lay by from 10 o'clock till noon, and observed in latitude 4G° 33', longitude
.50° .'■)1' ; the extent of breakers appeared to be about two miles, and were more tremend-
ously alarming than I have ever experienced, during twenty-three years that I have (chiefly
in this trade) commanded a vessel."

The reef has since been surveyed by Mr, Rose, master of II. M, S, Tt/ne, who, with
Captain Uishop, of II. M. brig Manlj/, has ascertained its situation. The following are
the particulars.

The bank in which the shoal is situated, extends E. by N, and W. by S. 4| miles ; its
broadest part is about 2"i miles. The soundings are regular from 28 to 30 fathoms, until
they deepen suddenly on the outer edge to 39 and 43.

The rocks themselves are in 46° 26' 30" N. and 50° 51' 30" W. They extend in an
irregular chain, S.W, by W. and N.E. by E. 800 yards, varying from 200 to 300 yards
in breadth. The least depth of water is on a white rock, in 4^ fathoms, with 5 to 6i
fathoms all round it ; the bottom distinctly visible. Toward the extremities of the shoal
are several detached rocks of from 7 to 9 fathoms, with deep water between, and with a
current setting over them W.S.W. one mile an hour ; and with also a very confused heavy
swell.

The vessels were anchored upon the rocks for the space of two days, during which the
weather was extremely pleasant, and every way favourable for taking the most accurate
observations. Variation 26*^ 30' \V,

A copious detail relative to the reef is given in the Nautical Magazine, No. 1, page 10;
and it is there noticed that the longitude of the rocks, assuming Halifax dock-yard in
03° 38' 41", is bO° 56' 3.V', but if our longitude of Halifax be correct, 63° 33' 40", the
longitude will be only 50° 51' 34" ; and in the chart of the rocks it is stated as
50° 51' 30", although laid down in 50° 56^.* The surrounding bank has been noted as
a good fishery.

Ships bound to St. John's are, therefore, recommended to keep on the parallel of
46°, or a degree and a half to the southward of the parallel of that port, as and until
they approach the outer edge of the Great Bank ; and, when they obtain soundings, to
steer directly to the north-westward for Cape Spear, the position of which is given as
47* 31' N. and 52° 33|' W.f

• From a comparison of the distances from Cape Race, given by different mercantile commanders,
we, however, admit the latter as nearest to the truth.

t We are aware that a recent chart of the S.E, and South coasts of Newfoundland places the
whole about eiylit minutes more to the West, tlian we have given it. Former diarts had it as much
more to tlic Eaut. We still adhere to the statement given in the ' Jt/aiiiic Memoir,' p. 31. The
Admnalty chart of Trinity and Conception Bays, KSUj, places Cape Spear in longitude 52'' liU,,
and Fort Amherst in o2*-' 37' ; longitudes which may safely be adopted.

In a former work, the ' Colombian Navigator,' ISIW, has been shown the probability of an
erroneous assumption of longitude for Halifax Dock-yard, and the consequence of so assuming it as
a fust meridian. If the chronometric distances have been gained from such meridian, the conse-
tjucnce must be obvious, and the error much more extensive than was supposed.

»ea-fowls, ns
lore tliau 30
seen during
f the banks.

.v.. point of

ij 20 Icau'ues

over tliem ;

;nmnnunicate
; Inditina, of

of October,
JatVV.N.W.
miles, I was
1 to such an
)y N., it not
good berth,
p-sail to the
5', longitude
lore tremend-

have (chiefly

e, who, with
following are

4| miles ; its
ilhoms, until

extend in an
;o 300 yards
^ith 5 to 6.i
of the shoal
;md with a
n fused heavy

g which the
lost accurate

1 , page 1 ;

lock-yard in

|33' 40", the

is stated as

;en noted as

parallel of

IS and until

pundings, to

is given as

Icommanders,

Id places the

tid it us much

p. 34. The

Ide 52'' 33i-,

[ability of an

Isuining it as

1, the coiisc-

ST. JOHN S llAUnOUR. ]()

EASTERN .AND NORTHERN (OASTS oi
I NEWFOUNDLAND.

I.- CAPK SPKAR AND St. JOHN'S HARBOUR, to CAPT, St. FRANCIS.

Lk.h r-HuusF, o\ Cai'i, Sit.aii. — Since the 1st of Sepleinber, I83G, a light-house cm
(Jape Spear has exiiibitcd a ])ovvi'rful revolving liiiht at 27."> ftet above the level of the sea,
which, ill dear weatlier, may bo seen at ci;jlit or nine, and in ordinary weather, at five or
six leagues off. The liglit shows a brilliant iiasli at regular intervals of one minute.

Upon Fort Amht'yst, on the South liead at the entrance to St. John's Harbour, tiiere is
shown a liritlhait fiicd li^lil, which may also from its elevation, be seen at a considerable
distance.

The HARBOUR of ST> JOHN, which is the principal harbour of Newfound.
land, is an excellent one, altlioui^h the entrance is narrow, being only IGO fathoms in
breadth; willi hi;;li, bold, and pr(;cipilous land on each side.'' The entrance lies N.W.
by W., and within will be found to narrow ; as, in the inner part, there is a rock on each
j side, but above water. Here the breadtir of the chanirel is only 9.5 fatiioms, and the

depth 8. When past these rocks you may run on boldly, without arry fear of dairi;er, only
« avoiding a rock oir the soutii side, called I'rossir's lU>ck, on which liiere are orrly 9 feet

of water, and lying at about 30 fathoms from the shore, off a reef lying within the King's
wharf.

Within the harbour you may anchor in any depth from 4 to 10 fathoms, land-locked
from all winds, as the harbour within the Narrows lies W.S.W. It is, however, to bo
noticed, that there is no possibility of sailing in, unless with the wirrd I'rom S.W. by
S. to East. The wind from S.W. to N.K. by N., blows out of t'ire Narrows. Here
ships must then anchor-, and warp in, for which purpose there are rings in the rocks on
both sides.

The following Directions ior St. John's have been given by Mr. Owen.

"The entrance of St. John's Harbour, is readily krrown by the block-house on Signal-
hill on the North Head, and Amherst Fort on the ^outh Head.f There is a sunken rock,
called the Feslul, 50 fathoms without South Head, with only 2j feet of water on it. This
rock is about 10 fathonrs long and 7 broad ; the marks for it are, I'ort \\ illiam (which
stands within the harbour on the north side) open of South Head, beariirg N. 39 deg.
W. ; and the outer Jfush-tjuU Rock open with Cuckold's Head, bearing N. 47 deg. E.
The Wash-ball Rocks join the North Head ; they are all above water and steep-to, there-
fore not dangerous. The course in the Narrows is N.W. by W., distance 370 fithoms,
to C/iain Rock oir the North, and the Rancuke on the South, side. Roth these i-ocks are
above water, and steep-to. Sixty-tive fathoms within the Pancake Rock, otr the South
shore, lies the Little Pancake, a rocky shoal, dry at low water ; and 80 fathoms within the
latter lies a sunkerr rock, called Prosser's Rock, running off 30 fathoms from a rock above
water, in form of a saddle, with 18 feet of water in the hollow, and only 5 feet on the
outside. It is steep-to, with 5 fathoms close to if. After you have passed Prosser's Rock,
you may stand to either shore, as they are clear and sleep-to. You mn.y anchor in what
water you please, from 8 to 4 faUioras, muddy bottom.

*' The tide of St. John's sometimes rises 7 or 8 feet ; it is not regular, but greatly influ-
enced by the wind."

Be very cautious, if unacquainted with the coast, that you mistake not the place called
Chikli Villi, or Kitty Vitty, for the harbour of St. John's, as it shows an opening like a
good harbour, but is tit only for boats, and not safe even ibr these at low water. Fort
Aiitfierst, which stands on the South head of St. John's, appears white, and the flagstafi's on
the hill, over the North head, will point to the harbour of St. .lohn's: besides these, the

• An appearance of the entrance is given by Mr- Owen, on his particular chart of the harbour.

f At half a mile S.E. | S. from Fort Amherst is the centre of a narrow bank, having 14 fatiioms
over it, and which breaks in rough weather. It extends nearly a iprarter of a mile N.E. and S.W.
and has on it, near each end, a depth of 20 fathoms.

It is high water in the harbour, oir the full and change, at 7 h. 30 ni. Spring tides rise 5, neap?
•4 ft'ct.

CONCEPTION BAY.

iM.'i

i i.1

IJ •!:.

course from Cape Spear is N.N.W., and the distance about 4 miles. The position of Fort
Amherst, as lately given, is lat. 47° 33 i', long. 52° 37'.

Between the harbour of St. John and Cape Spear are three bays ; the first is from St.
John's to Low Point, and is called Freshivaler Bay ; the second, from Low Point to
Black Head, is called Deadmaiis Buy ; the third is from Black Head to Cape Spear, and
is called Cape Bay.

ST. JOHN'S HARBOUR to CONCEPTION BAY.— Fuom St. John's to Touijay
the course is between N.E. by N. (being at a little distance without the harbour) and
N.N.E. distance 7 J miles. Between St. John's and Torbay are several points, which
have names ; viz. first CuckolWs Head, on the south side of the Gut of Quidi Vull ; the
next is Small Point, which lies 21 miles N.E. j N. from the entrance of St. John's; the
third is Sugar-Loaf Point, and it lies N. by E. ) E. half a league from Small Point ; the
fourth is tied-Head, lying N.N.E. from Sugar-Loaf, about 2 miles. Between the Sugar-
Loaf and Red Head is a Bay, called Logic Bay. The fifth point is the South point of
'Torbay, which lies a mile and a half N. i E. from Red-head. This point of Torbay is
the lowest of these points.

From the South point of Torbay to the anchoring place, where ships usually ride, the
course is N.VV. by W. Here you may anchor in 14 fathoms, against Green Cove. Should
you be open of the bay, the course in is West ; for the bay is two miles in extent between
the South and the North points. The latter is a low black point, with a flat rock off it,
over which the sea breaks: in passing this, from the northv/ard, the course into Torbay is
VV.S.W. Torbay is a bad place for ships to ride in with the wind from seaward ; for,
being open to the ocean, a great sea falls into it.

From Flat Ruck Point, or the North point of Torbay, the course and distance to Black-
head, are N. ^ E. 3| miles. Flat Rock Point is a long, smooth, sloping pavement of red
sandstone; hence its name.

FiioM Black-Head to Cape St. Francis, the bearing and distance areN. by W. ^ W.
3 miles ; Cape St. Francis is a whitish point, and low in comparison with the other
land ; but, from sea, the high land over it marks a cove, called Shoe Cove, where boats
used to come a tilting, (using the fishermen's expression,) that is, to split and salt the fish
they catch, when blowing hard and in bad weather, when they cannot gain the places they
belong to in time. In this cove you may haul up a boat to save her, if the wind be out;
for with northerly, westerly, and southerly winds, you will lie safely. There is a good place
off it for fishing.

From Cape St. Francis to the distance of a mile off, triangular-wise, lie sunken rocks,
called the Brandys ; the outermost, east from the cape, about a mile and three-quarters.
There are also islets, or great rocks above water, the outermost of which lies about three-
quarters of a mile E.S.E. from the cape; and the innermost not half a mile off shore;
between these islets and the sunken rocks, you may go with boats, and find fresh water ;
but men are generally unwilling to venture. Shoe Cove is protected by the rocks.

There is another cove, to the northward of the point of the cape, for boats, when the
wind is off the shore ; but, if otherwise, it is not safe.

IL— CONCEPTION BAY, between CAPE ST. FRANCIS and BACALIEU, or

BACALAO ISLE.

CONCSFTZON BAV,— From Cape St. Francis to Bell Isle the course is W.S.W.,
and S.W. by VV. 4 leagues. This island, already mentioned in page 16, is two miles from
the shore, against the cove called Portugal Cove. Bell Island is bounded by cliffs, at one
point nearly 300 feet high ; about 5 miles long and 3 broad. Near the S.E. end is Lance
Cove, a small indentation of the cliff, which, with a beach, are the only landing places. It
is very fertile, thus differing from the surrounding land. On the S.VV. side is the Bell, a
perpendicular rock 100 feet high, divided fiom the island by a passage of 20 yards, passable
for boats in calm weather. The vessels that fish there lie in the little cove on the south side
of the island, which will contain five or six ships, according to the rate.

From Cape St. Francis to the Island Bacalieu, or Bacalao, the bearing and distance are
N.N.E. about 6 leagues. Bacalieu is an island 3 miles long, from north to south, and one
mile and a half broad, and is almost inaccessible. Here boat-: were used to fish : abundance

ilion of Fort

t is from St.
»w Point to
; Spear, and

TO TORBAY

larbour) and
oiiits, which
di Viili ; the
John's; the
1 Point ; tlie
n the Sugar-
iilh point of
of Torbay is

illy ride, the
'ove. Sliould
lent betvveen
t rock off it,
no Torbay is
eavvard ; for,

ice to Black-
ement of red

1 W.

other

• by W,

ith the
, where boats
1 salt the fish
e places they
,vind be out;
a good place

anken rocks,
ree-quarters.
about three-
e off shore ;
fresh water ;
cks.

Its, when the

lLIEU, ok

IS W.S.W.,

miles from

|cliffs, at one

id is Lance

places. It

the Bell, a

hds, passable

le south side

(distance are

|ith, and one

abundance

CONCEPTION BAY.

of sea-birds, of several sorts, breed here in the summer. Between this island and the main
is a channel about 2 miles broad, havinij a sufficient depth for ships. The liai/ Verde unA
the S.W. end of Bacalieu lie E. by N. and W. by S. from each other, about a league and
a half.

Bay Verde. — From Cape St. Francis to the Day Verde Head, the bearing and distance
are N. by E. about 5.J leagues ; and, from the head lo the bay, or cove, where ships ride,
to the westward of the head, is about three-quarters of a mile. The roadstead is not above
a cable's length in extent between the points, which lie N.N.E. and S.S.W. from each
other; you lay your anchors in 10 fathoms, and your ship will lie in 5, with a cable out;
the stern will then be not above half a cable's length from the stages. The ships that ride
here, are forced lo seize their cables one to the other ; and there cannot be, at once, above
seven or eight ships. It is a bad and hazardous place for ships, except in the summer time,
but the great plenty offish make it desirous, although it is a wild, desert place, very deficient
in wood, water, &c.

Bay Verde, or Btnj of Herbs, as it is here called, may be readily known by the Island
Hacalicu, and also by another head within Bacalieu, called Split Point; as well as by liay
Verde Head itself, which is the westernmost; these three heads show very blutl, and very
like each other, on coining from the southward : there is no danger in going into Bay Verde
but what may be seen.

From Bat/ Verde Head to Flumborou^h Head the bearing and distance are W.S.W. -\ W.
four miles. Flamborougii-head is a black sleep point, but no place of shelter for a boat,
unless when the wind comes from the shore; neither is there any safety between Hay
Verde and Carboniere, (7 leagues S.W. i \V.,) excepting two places for boats, the one in
the S.W. cove of the Green Baj/, which is but an indillerent place, and lies S.W. ^ VV.
about t leagues from Bay Verde, and the other in Sulmuri Cove, whicli is about a league
and a half northward of Carboniere.

From Bay Verde Head to Green Bay is S.W. J W. about 4 leagues. This bay is about
a league over, but has nothing remarkable in it, excepting the S.W. cove above mentioned,
and a place at the bottom of the bay, to whicii formerly the Red Indians came every year,
for the purpose of obtaining ochre.

From the South point of Green Bay to Black-head is S.W. i W. a league ; and from
Black-head to Salmon Cove, W.S.W. 4 miles. The latter is a ])lace of shelter for boats,
an island lying in the middle ; a river runs up from the cove, which abounds with salmon.

CARBONIERE. — From Salmon Cove to Carbonieue, the course is W.S.W. about
4 miles. The Island of Carboniere is at about a mile from the shore. Its south side is
low. The harbour is very bold on both sides ; so is the island, between which and the
main are rocks, just under water. This is a good place for ships to ride in, and for catching
and curing offish. Here are good pasturage and cattle, affording milk and butter during
the summer. Carboniere has declined, and therefore has, in parts, a forlorn and deserted
air. There is very good anchorage, in clear ground, fair turning in or out, being more than
half a mile broad, and 3 miles long ; the depth, 5 to 8 fathoms, and deeper water. To the
northward of the point of Carboniere are two coves, in which planters live, and keep boats
for fishing ; the northernmost of these, called ClowJi Cove, is fit for boats only, and is about
2 miles above Carboniere Harbour ; the other is called Crocker s Cove, and is close to the
entrance of Carboniere Bay.

The proper channel in to Carboniere is on the North side of the island, which lies off its
southern point; the entrance here being more than a mile wide. Ships may, however, pass
on the S.W.^side of the isle; but they must keep in mid-channel, because the ground is
foul and shoal on each side, so as to form a narrow passage oidy.

To the W.S.W. of Carboniere Island is a small cove, called Mosquito Cove : in this
cove ships may ride, but it is seldom used, as it is not convenient for fishing ships, althou'rh
the ground is clean, and it has sufficient depth of water,

HARBOUR GRACE. — The entrance of Harbour Grace is a league to the southward
of Carboniere Island. A rock, called the Salvage, stands nearly in the middle of the
channel ; and there is another, called the Long Harry, near the North shore, having only
a boat-passage between it and the main, lioth arc of great height above the water. Har-
hour Grace is a pretty-looking lilde town, consisting of one long, straggling street, along

CONCEPTION' BAY'.

i.4-

I ,1

I,!

,1 :1

tlie north siilc of the harbour; tho houses hcinc; mostly pniiited whito, and standing on u
narrow flat, with a rocky rid^e hehind thetn. The popuhition is ahout 3000.*

Within the hay, a bar or Icd^e oxtonds from the South side, more than half way over,
as shown in the particular plan of die Harbour.

You mav turn into Harbour (Jiaco, all the bay over, from sid(! to side. The Salvas;e
may be passed op. eitlier side, as most convenient : and, having; passed within this rock,
you may turn !rom side to side, by the lead, till you draw toward the edt;e of the bank,
then proceed by the North shore.

You may kr w when you are near the bar, or ledge, by two whito rocks on the land,
by the water-side, in a bank on the; North side, which show whiter tlian any other part :
these arc about a mile below, or to the ca^twanl of, the beach, which is i)iopor to be
known: by keeping ne-ir the North shore, you will find 3 fathoms and a half on the bar,
and ])resenlly ahcr •!•, .'5, (3, and 7, fatlionis ; but if you stand over to the southward, till
you have advanced within the bar, or ledge, you shall not have above 7, 8, or 9, fi et of
water: this sand trends S.K. from athvvart the two white rocks above mentioned, and
extends close up to the South shore. Ilavinn; passed its outer extremity, you may turn
from side to side till within the beach, on the North side, and ride land-locked in 4, 5, or
6, fathoms, or higher up in 7, 0> 9, or 10, fathoms, as you please.

Three islets, called II.iiuiour Grace Isj.anos, lie off the South point of the entrance of
Harbour Grace, in an East and West direction. On one of these is a li;^hlhouse, perched
on the brink of a precipice, consisting of a square wooden house, with a square dove-cot-
looking top for a lantern. The island, a block of slate, is only accessible by ladders, and
in smooth weather. No vessel should attempt a passage between them and the main, as
the ground is foul and shoal, and there are rocks about the islets.

J'Voffi Harbour Grace to Cape St. Francis, the bearing and distance arc E. i S., 6
leagues.

Bryant Covr, to the southwartl of Ilarlx \ir Grace, is not a place for ships: it is,
however, a good place for fish. Ii; the mid.ile of the entrance is a rock above water.
You may pass it on either side, and have 4 or 5 fathoms, and then anchor within it in
clean ground.

Erom Harbour Grace to Spaniard Bay, the distance is about two leagues. This bay is
deep and large, and tl jre is good anchoring all over it. It is divided from Buy Robert
by a small neck of land only.

Bay RoiiERT is about half a league broad. There is very good turning into it, and no
danger but what may be seen. You may borrow on either side, and go close to the island
which lies on the starboard side of the entrance. The bay is, at least, three miles long.
IJeing past the island, or to the westward of it, which is bold-to, you may run up about a
mile, and lie land-locked in 9 or 10 fathoms wiUiin the island.

Erom the point of liay Robert to Port Grave, the distance is 3 miles. Port Grave is
extensive, deep, and very bold, as the other bays are : there is a cove on die stai board side
of the entrance, called Sheep Cove, where you may moor oy head and stern, and ride in
4i- and 5 fathoms ; but your anchor to the W.S.W. will be ni 22 fathoms, at about a cable
and a quarter's length from the ship.

Erom Sheep Cove to Port Grave, the distance is a mile, or rather more; but '^s do

« In the month of December, 1820, H. M. sloop Favorite, Captain II. Robinson, visited Harbour
Grace, when Lieut. It. Pcarce, of that vessel, made an accurate survey of the port. The town was
then considerable, and of respectable appearance. Captain II. describes the harbour as good ; for,
" though the space between the end of the bar and the north shore is ratlier narrow, u large ship,
well handled, may beat through, or back and fill, in and out, with the tide."

Port Grace is a remarkable basin, hollowed out in the cliffs by the action of frost, or the more
certain operation of time, in destroying the slate-clay of which the rocks are composed. First an
arch is entered, '10 feet wide by 20 high ; and beyond is the basin itself, which is about 300 feet in
circumference, and surrounded by perpendicular rocks 120 feet in height, with a border of dwarf
spruce at top. At one corner a little aperture, among broken masses of rock, carries off the super-
fluous water ; the depth near the centre of the cavity is about 14 feet.

v^ On the 18th of August, 1832, an awful and destructive fire broke out and destroyed 100 dwelling
houses at this place, with the church, &c., when 600 persons, who in the morning were in comfort
and opulence, were before night without shelter and food. I'or the particulars, sec ' Nautical
Mapazinc,' Dec, 1832, pp. ()05, (i.

TlllXI'iV HAY.

'23

ndiiig oil a
way ovur,

he Salva^o

1 lliis I'cick,
r tliu bank,

1 tlie land,
Dtlier part :
roper to 1)<!
on tlic bar,
iliwaid, till
r 9, ftt.'t of
tioned, and
u may turn
in 4, 5, or

3 entrance of
ise, pereiiL'd
re dove-cot-
ladders, and
he main, as

E. 1 S., 6

ships : it is,

above water.

within it ill

This bay is
Hay Robtit

it, and no

|lo the island

miles long.

up about a

)rt (Iravc is
Inboard side
land ride in

30ut a cable

--■s

Ited Harbour
lie town was
lis gootl ; for,
la large ship,

:)r the more
Id. First an
It 300 feet in
ller of dwarf
the super-

JOO dvvelhng
|e ill comfort

' Nautical

not riilc within the small islands which arc by I'ort (irave, the water wuliiii them being
shoal ; but ihry ride oil" without (hem.

Vrom Sheep Cove to (.'«/)((/ Cove, on the South coast of Port Crave, the course is S.W.
about a leanui.'. This is a gooil place for a ship or two to ride in, in l, .5, or (5, fatlioms,
and not above a point open. The cove lies in a \N .S.W. direction, and the South side of
the bay to Hurnt Head trends K. by N. about two miles.

From Buriit-licad to Ih-'i^iis, is S.S.W. two miles. The South point of Rri^us is a high
rut;u;e(l point: the b;iy of Ihiuus is nut above half the breadth of I'ort (Iimvo Hay ; you
run up W. by S. and West, about half a league, and anchor on the Norlh side. Small
vessels only use this place, it bein" so fir up the Ihy of Conception. It is a wild, rocky,
little place,' and a rather considerable settleiiu iit, with a population of about 'JUOO.

Cullk'r />V///.— From Ihigus to Collier Bay is S.S.W, two and a half or three miles.
And from Collier Hay to Salmon Cove or Pool, the distance is nearly two miles and a hall.

Ilurliour Main. — This is a t^ood place for fishing, but ships seldom go \\y> so high in the
bay. rroin Ihirnt-head, of I'ort (Jr.ive, to ll;ul)our Muiii, the course and distance are
S. by W. about three leagues; and from Harbour Main to llo/i/rood S. by E. about two
miles; then the land trends aiioiit to the eastward toward Beil hie. Ilolyrood Harbour
has W fathoms of water, and good ground.

III.— TIUNITY HAY, &c. in twekm BACALIKU and CAPK BONAVISTA.

TRINITY BAY. — This extensive Bay, between Bacalieu Island on the S.I-'. and

Trinity Harbour on the N.W., is 7 leagues in breadth, and its tleptii, from the entrance,
is 2i) leagues. Tlie south point of the entranCi., westward of Bacalieu island, is called the
Point of (Jiiates. The next point within is lircak-lieurt Point. Between these points is
a small bay, in which boats may lie with a wind from the land of BreaU-heart Point :
there is a ledge of rocks, but they are above water.

Prom Break-heart Point to Sherwick Point, going into Old Perlican, the course is S.W.
by W. .')!j or G miles. To the southward of Break-heart Point is an islet, at soine little
distance oliiiie shore, called Scurvj/ Island: between this Island and Sherwick Point, the
coast falls in a pretty deep bay, and trends S.S.E. from Sherwick Point about three-
quarters of a mile.

Oil) Peui.icax. — Sherwick Point is bold; there is a rock off it, above water: this
point is the north point of Old Perlican. They who are bound to Old Perlican, cannot go
in with a shin to the northward of the island ; that is, between the island and Sherwick
Point; altliough it seems a fair passage, yet it is altogether foul ground, and a shoal of
rocks extends from the main to the island ; (which island is about a mile and a quarter
round, and about half a mile in length ;) therefore, whoever intends for Old Perlican with
a ship, must jjuss to the south of the island, between it and the main. Within it is an
anchorage, in 4 or 5 fathoms. It is, however, to be observed that there is a rock just
even with the water, and some under water, about the middle of the bay, within the island,
or rather nearest to the main. Old Perlican has but an indilferent road : and, if the winds
come out from N.W., you are forced to buoy the cables, from the badness of ground. The
boats go a great way to catch fish, (about five or si.x miles) excepting in the very middle of
summer.

Sille Cove. — From Old Perlican to Sille Cove, the coast rounds to die Westward, S.\V.,
and S.S.W. , about six leagues. Sillc Cove is but an indifferent place for shijis, such as
Bay \'erde, already described.

New Perlican. — From Sillc Cove to New Perlican, the distance is a league. This is
a very good harbour, where you may lie land-locked in 5, 6, 7, «, 9, or 10, fathoms. It is
very bold and large going in, so that, if you can see the point before night, you may safely
run in, there being nothing to hurt you but the shore itself. The easternmost point of the
entrance, is cilled Smutty-nose Point, and the westernmost Gorlob Point ; the entrance
between is more than a mile broad, and has about 20 fathoms of water. On sailing in, it
will be found narrower and shallower, lying in first west, and terminating in a bi^ht, where
you may lie land-locked, in a berth half a mile broad; so that you may turn in o° out, and
anchor in what depth you please, fr )m 12, 10, 8, G, 5, or 4, fathoms, very good ground.

S. by E. i E. f.oin New Perlican, distant 2^- miles, is Heart's Content, a fine spacious
hirbour, nearly circular, and excellently sheltered from all winds; it is a thriving place.

TlilN'ITY MAUl'.orU.

1 1 III

The coast hoars goncrnlly S. liy K. frarii llcnrl''* ( 'oiitent, ami consists n( a low sliorn oi
hriulil r^'I •""' yfy slatt'. Twotiiy miles distant (iom Henri's (JonlfMit is \nv Hnrhtiurf a
slioal place and diHicidt of onlranco. Almost all this oastt'in sidi; of Trinity Hay is
irdiahitfid, Al tin.' In ad of llio l)ay is Dilihj llrtr/four, mid ft miles to the NV . uf tins is
Cliaiiplr Ann, n small sotlltniotit.

Nine miles N. by I'.. J K. is Ticlilii Ilarhonr Point, llio north nNtrrmity oT a tonuiic of
land, forming' a rUep hay on its wcsiem side, at the liollom of wliic li is I'icklc liar/tour;
it is a had ancliorirr^ place, N. hy I',, from this, ;) miles, is llie ciilrancf; of the liajf iif'
Ihills, (llaie des noiiles) an inlei running; in the s;ui)e direction for () miles, when it. turns
to the westward, and approaches Come hy Chance lidrt, at tin.' head of IMacontia Hay.
'I'lie islhmus formed hy these two arms connects the p( ninsula of Ava'on with the main
part of the island. It is ahnnt .'i tnilrs hroad, and l.M) or 2()<> feet hiuh, slopin;.: toward
Trinity Hay. To the cast of the istlmms is Centre llill, ahoiit toOO or I'JOO feet hi^jli.

liawlnm Western Head lies (JJ loacues N. I',, ■] K. from the entrance of the H.iy of
Mulls. It forms the eastern ontraiico to the tiuntli Went Arm, an inlet running parallel
with Handom Sound, 4 loaguf;s in length.

From New I'erlican, the distance over to Uandum Ilcoff, is .5 leagues. These places lie
N. ] W. and S. } Iv from each other. In Unndom Sound aie several arms an<l harbours.
Ilandom and Smith Sound unititrj form Random Island, the channel beiii'^ in the whole
i;i leagues in length. Al the conjunction of the two sounds is a bar, nearly dry at low
water. Here it is not a mile broad.

PORT BONAVRNTURF-.— From Boiiaventure Head to Hovaventure Harbour, the
course is N.NN . hy N. a mile and a half; but, having advanced a mile from the head, then
the harbour lies N. by W. to the Admiral's Stage. Fort llonaventure lies within two small
islands, between which is the proper channel, but you may go on either Iklc, if you have a
leading wind, there being no dant,'er, and 4 or 5 fathoms of water, at least. Within the
islands, you may anchor in that depth, in good ground. There is a very secure place for
boats in bad weather, running in within a point, behind, or to the northward of, the
Admiral's Stages, like a great pond. This place will contain above 100 boats in security.

There are several island-, without, off BonavenUirc; the middle one, called Green
Island, is nearly S S.W. from the port, distant live miles. It is so high as to be seen, in
fair weather, so soon as you come out of 'irinUii Harbour.^

From Honaventure Head to the point called the Horsec/iops, the bearing and distance
are East, eight miles.

From Bonaventure Head to Trinity Harbour, is N.E. i E. ^^ miles; between are some
bays, but not for ships to ride in, unless with the wind off the siiore.

The Horsechops and Sherwick Point (being the East point of Tri:iity Harbour) lie
N.W. by W. '- \V. and S.K. l)y E. ,', E. from each other, distant 4,\ miles, iielween the
Horsechops and Trinity Harbour is Kuglish Harbour, at the distance of ,3 miles from the
Horsechops. Within tiio outer point this harbour trends eastward ; it is a clean bay, and
you ride in 4 or 5 fathoms of water.

From Englisii Harbour to Salmon Cove, the course is N. by W. about .. mile; it is a
place for fishing, and there is a river which runs up about two miles to the northward.

Without Salmon Cove is a headland, called Fot\s Island, connected to the main by a
neck of beach. To the northward of the headland, between it and Sherwick Point, is a
bay, called Robin Hood's ; and in this bay, behind a point, small ships ride and lish.

TRXNITV KAllBOUIl. — From the Horsechops to Trinity Harbour, the
course and distance are W.N.W. 5 miles. Trinity Harbour is the best and largest har-
bour in all the land, having several arms and coves, wherein several hundred ships may
ride land-locked. A lofty rocky promontory lies in the centre of the harbour, on the
lower part of which, the houses composing the tovvn are irregularly scattered, containing
with the neighbourhood, about 3000 inhabitants. It is a place which you may turn in or
out of, being bold-to on each side, and having no danger but what may be seen ; excepting
that, at the entrance of the S.W, arm, there is a shoal, called the Mussel Bank, which
shoots off from a point within the islet on the larboard side going in, and extends N.N.W.
about a third of the breadth over that arm. Being within this bank, which will discover
itself by the colour of the water, you may edge over close to the south shore, if you
please, or keep your lead, to avoid the Mussel Bank, giving it a little distance. You

CATAMNA IIAKIIOLH,

125

w sUorv oi
tlnrlitmr, ii
lily n.iy i<«
. of tlii4 is

I tDtimio nf
f 11(11 hour ;
llic Hay iif'
lien it iiiriis
(oiitiii Hay.
ill tli(< niaiti
i)inj; toward
cet U'v^h.

tlio Hiiy of
ling parallel

'se places lie
1(1 harbours.

II the wlioip
dry at low

larlmur, llie
e bead, then
lin two small
f you have a
Within the
ire place for
,vard of, the
in security.

ailed Green
be seen, in

and distance

en are sonio

lU'bour) lie

ielwcen the

from the

an bay, and

icli

11. li,

10 fulh

to the st.iL'C

110 ; it IS
iward.

main by a
Point, is a
nd fish.

iibour, the
argest liar-
1 ships may
our, on the
containing
ly turn in or
excepting
(ink, which
ids N.N.VV.
-•ill discover
[lore, if you
incp. You

iroacli JO I
make a stage with topinasix to yimr siai^e on shore, to lane or iiiiiado your snip, i ins
IS a iiio<it oxcclh'nt harbour, lor after you are in the S.W. arm, \oii find anoiher luniuti^
up to the N.NN. which is contiiuuMl by another extending .S.W., but there is a b.ir, or
Itdne, at llio entrance of the l.ittt r. The N.W . ami is a iaiue harbour, liaviiijr vjood
anchoraj;e for .lOO sail of ships. Hi sides the fore-nunlioued amis, the tniiii liarbi ur
turns u|) to the north.

Sliips, being widiiii ili<! harbour's nioulh, iii;iy ride in a cove, lari^c and. g'^od, oii the
starlioaid or east side, and land-locked in good ground off the town. Over against that
cove, on the larboard or west side, are two other coves; the southernmost of ihem is
called the lice Adui'md'i Cuve, convenient for curing fish ; and above, or to the n>)rth-
ward of that, is a large cove, or arm, called (lot I'dvc, where the le is room enough for
.101) or 400 sail of ships to ride, all in clear ground, protected from winds, sea, anil tide.
In this place slii[)S lie unseen viiitil it appears open.

There ate several other places in this excillent liaibour, in good elean giouiid. The
bottom, in all tin; arms and coves of Trinity, is of louuli clay, with l and .') fathoms of
water, within two boats' len'.,'lli from the slmre ; and there are (i, 7, H, 'J, 1(>, I'i, and 1 I-
fathoms, and some places more, in the middle of the arms and clianneh. Vou may turn
in or out, as already noticed, observing your tide, which rises about l feet, and sometimes
more.

From the llorsccliops to the South Head of CalaliiHt />(^/v, a di.stanf e of miles, the
coast rounds to the N.K. About two milts to the iiorlhwaid of the llorsecliops is an
indent, named (Irecn Baif, but it is no place for ships to ride or tisli in. Heing past
(Jreen May, there is no place or cove for boats till you conit! to Hugged liaibour or to
Catalina.

From the Soutn Head of ("atalina May to the North Head, the beaiing and distance are
N.W. by W. I W. [iV. II'. ()if A'.j. .'ii miles: between the two heads is Rugged Harbour
and Catalina Harbour. The'Soulli Head is in latitude ■\H° 21' :i'6".

Ili'ooF.D Il.\iiHOun is so called from the numeious rugged and craguy lotks wliicli lie
before and within it, above and under water. They who proceed for this harbour with a
ship, must pass to tlie northward of all the rocks or islets, and run to the northward till
they bring the harbour opcii;|^heii sail in between a round island wliich lies close to the
main, and a great black rock, which lies olf the noitli end of all the islets. There is a
river of fresh water at the head of the harbour.

CATALINA HAilMOUR.— One mile and a half to the norihwurd of Rugged Harbour
is the Harbour of Catalina, which is very safe, with good ground, not above 8 fathoms,
from 3 to 4, 5, G, 7, or 8 faUioms, as you please. You may, with a leading wind, sail
between the small island, which is a little to the southward of the harbour, and have
4 or 5 fathoms at the least, in going through, but it is not above a cable's length broad ;
or you may go without that island, to the eastward of it, giving the island a small berth,
and so sail in with the middle of the harbour; for, at about half a mile distant from the
south point of the harbour, to the east, is a reef, called the liramlijH, upon which, if there
be ever so small a sea, it breaks; but you may sail between the island and the reef, or you
may go to the northward of it, between the reef and the north shore.

A rock, having over it but 9 or 10 feet or water, lies off the north shore of Catalina
Harbour, at one-third of a mile within the Mrandys above mentioned ; but between the
two is a depth of 10 fathoms, with a continued depth of 7 fathoms more than half a mile
along the south shore. Within this, up the harbour, you may anchor in .5 fathoms,
land-locked. You may likewise anchor in 3i fluhoms, to the southward of the little
green island, at the entrance of Little Catalina, or the N.E, arm of the harbour; or you
may run up toward the village or the river-bead, whence fresh water runs down. A
kind of bore rises in this place very often, that will cause the water to rise three feet
presently, and then down again ; and you may find it so two or three times in three or
four hours, at certain seasons. It is a very good harbour, and abundance of the Iieib
Alexander grows on the small island. Salmon abound at the head of the harbour. Near
a small cove in the N.W. within the small island, is a fire-stone of a glittering colour, called
Catalina stone, a species of iron pyrites ; excellent willocks grow on the rocks.

From the North-head of Catalina Bay to Flower Point

g>'

cliflF, trends N,E. J N. ^i miles. Off the point is a reef of sunken rocks, called Flower

BOX A VISTA 15 A V

Uoch ; over which the sea breaks during a swell, and they discover themselves plainly.
They lie about half a mile off shore, and extend a mile true Kast. You may yo between
Flower Point (which has some rucks lying about it) and the sunken rocks above de-
scribed. A mark to go without thiin is, to keep tiie (iuU Island, ofl'Capo llonavista, open
of all the land to the southward : this will lead clear without them to the eastward.

Bird Islands. — From Flower Point to the two islets called Bird Islands, the distance
northward is two miles. \\ ithin the Bird Islands is a bay, with one arm within the south
point of the land, which runs up some distance to the west, where ships may ride : another
arm, also, runs up within some rocks, which are above water. The bay extends to Cupt
Lurjun, half a league farther north. Tiie l>ird Islands abound with willocks, gannets,
pigeons, gulls, ifnC, which breed there in summer.

From Flower Point to Cape Larjan, the bearing and distance are N.N.E. [iV. ■' If'.]
[\% miles; (lie extremity of Cape Larjan is but a low point, oti' which lies a great rock
above water.

From Cape Larjan to Spiller's Point is N. by E. half a league ; between this cape and
Spiller's Point the land falls into a bay. Over the point, between it and Cape Larjan,
you will see the high land of Port Bonavista, from a considerable distance off at sea.
Spiller's Point is moderately high, steep, and bold-to.

[HI.-BONAVISTA HAY between CAPE BONAVISTA and CAPE FREELS.

From Spiller's Point to Cape Bonavista, the course is North 2i miles; between is a
bay, apparently deep, which persons unacquainted with would suppose to be tlie harbour
of Bonavista.

Cai'l iioNAViSTA is in latitude 48° 42' 10'. The head of it appears at a distance of
a sky-colour. At about half a mile N.N.E. from the cape is a small islet called Gnll
Island, easy to be known, being moderately iiigh, but highest in the middle, and makes
somewhat like the form of a Fleur-de-lis, or a hat wiUi great brims ; you may see it 4 or
.5 leagues off in clear weather; near inhere is from 4 to d fathoms water. To the S.S.W.
about 310 yards off is a danger which does not show.

AtN.N.l-',. i !•'. 3.^ miles frotn (lull Island lies a rock, which bears the name of Old
Harri/, and has only 13 feet of water upon it. The sea breaks over this spot, unless
when the water is very smooth. To the N.E. from t!ie Old Harry, within an extent of
nearly three miles, are several dangerous spots, wilii from 3 to 4 fathoms : the outer or
northern edge of these is called Young Hurry. Vessels when passing, in order to avoid
these rocks, must be careful to keep Cape Bonavista open with the westernmnst extremity
of a high range of land to the southward, named the Green or Inner Ridi^e. These
dangers, together with the long ledge called the Flower Rocks, near Flower Point, above-
mentioned, render it very imprudent to attempt making Cape Bonavista in diick or bois-
terous weather; and, indeed, at any time, Baealieu Island, between tlie entrances of
(/onception and Trinity Bays, is the best and safest land-lall for a stranger bound to any
part of Bonavista Bay.

There is a channel between Gull Island and Cape Bonavista ; it is nearly half a mile
wide, with a good depth ; but it is to be observed, that, in rounding the cape, you may
not stand in close, .is there is a sunken rock about 300 yards S.S.W. from die Cuil Island,
and another, on the opposite side within die cape, upwards of '200 yards to the N.E. of
the land of Green Island, which will be presently noticed. Each has less than 3 fathoms
of water.

Green Island is an isle half a mile in length, lying nearly parallel with the western side
of Cape Bonavista. The passage between admits small vessels only, being narro.v, and
some spots have shoal rocks. At a mile and a ([uarter to the westward of Green Island
is a small islet called Stone Island, with a reef on its eastern side, but the general depths
between are from 8 to Iti fathoms.

At a mile to the southward of Green Island is a reef called the Red Itochs, lying off
Red Cove, which is terminated by Western Head. In succession after this, between it
and the port of Bcnavista, are Red Point, Moses Point, and Sweriy Head ; the two last,
with their surrounding rocks, marking the north side of Bonavista Harbour.

From Cape Bonavista to Port Bonavista, the courses are south-westward, about four
miles. If you come from the southward, and intend for Bonavista, you must leave Green

Ives plainly,
go between
i above de-
avista, open
arcl.

tlie distance
lin tlie south
de : ariDtlier
tids to Copt
ks, garinets,

. [A^ ^ If'.]
. great rock

lis cape and
'.ipe Larjan,
e off at sea.

rUEKLS.

between is a
I the harbour

;i distance of
called Gull
, and makes
y see it 4 or
the S.S.W.

ame of Old
spot, unless
in extent of
llie outer or
er to avoid
St extremity
iliie. These
oint, above-
ick or bois-
iiiliatices of
iMid to any

half a mile

e, you may

>ull Island,

the N.K. of

3 fathoms

western side
larro.v, and
reen Island
eral dcjjths

'•S b''"rt off
between it

he two last,

about four
eave Green

I'.ONAVISTA r.AV

)♦

Island on vour larboard side. You may siil between Green Island and Stone Island,
with any ship, witliout danger, tiie channel beint^- safe and bold ; or, you may u" to tiie
westward of Stone Island, and run to the southward till you open the harbour of IJona-
vista, and are past Mo'^ca Point, and so to the southward of the rocks calbnl the Sircrri/s,
which are hiuh rocks, having no passage to the northward of them. Here you may anchor,
in from 1 1 to 5 fathoms, as you please, but must always have a good anchor in the S.W,
and another fast in the Swerrys, or in the N.W., for westerly winds blow directly into
the road.

With small vessels you may go betwreen (Jrcen Island and the main, and so to Redhead ;
i)Ut the bay between the points (over against (ireen Island) and Redhead is all loul
ground. At a little distance, or about a ral)!e's leniith from the shore, is a sunken rock,
but bor.ts m.iy go between the shore and it. The s( a breaks on it. Being |iast NVestcrti
or Red-head, the course to Moses Point is W.S.VV. ; betwren is a larze bay or cove called
Hayley's Cove, where you may anchor on occasion, not advancing too far in, as all its
siicre is rocky and shoal.

Capt. Bullock, one of the surveyors of Bonavista Bay, &c. has said of 1{on,\vista II \|{-
BOin, that it is an anchorage of little or no consideralion, further than being a ven
eligible situation for carrying on the fisherv ; being so very badly sheltered that, m N.W .
gales, immediately following a continuance of heavy winds from seaward, the water breaks
right atliwart the harbour, and sometimes the whole of the fishing-boats founder at their
anchors, and not unfrerpiently many of their stages are desttoyed : however, vessels during
the summer months, moor under the Swerry Head, in 8 or 10 fathoms ; but, even there, as
in every other part of the harbour, the ground is so rocky and uneven, that they are neces-
sitated to buoy up their cables. Bonavista is a large and straggling, but pretty-looking
place, with a good deal of cultivated ground about it, which is more fertile than the neigh-
bourhood of St. .lohii's, but the want df a good harbour prevents its becoming one of the
most thriving places in the whole i'-Iand.

30NAVZSTA SAY. — This extensive Hay is limited by Cape Bonavista on the
south, and by (':ipe Kreels on the north. The bearing and distance from the one to the
other is N. :; K. [A'.iV. 11'.], 11 miles. The position of Cape Bonavista is, hit. 43^ 42',
long. .52° t'.)' : that of Cape I'reels, lat. 49" 15' .'30% long. J3° 26' 8". The whole coast
between is tortUDUs or much it)denlcd, rocky, difficult, and danuerous: on the south, the
land is high and niountanioi:s, and the coast steep und iron-bound : on the noith side it
is low and marshy, and from the shore the water is shoal to a considerable distance, abounds
with sii;;dl islands, and is encompassed with dangers on every side.

The harbours in Bonavista Bay are numerous, and safe when once gained ; but they
are, in gener.d, so deeply embayed, the land is so diversitied, and the passages so intricate,
that their navigation is seldom attempted, unless by those who, from long experience, have
a perfect knowledge of the coa^t : yet, should it become necessary, from stress of weather,
or other circumstance, for a siranuer to seek shelter, the places recommended fortius
[)iir|)osc are, 7>V//?7*u' and iirent Clunicc Uarbmirs, in the S.W . part of the Bay; New
Harbour and Cat Cove on the N.W.* These places are described hereafter.

Br.ACKiir.AD \\\\.— Blurl; Ihml is 2; miles S. by W. [,S./r. | U'.'\ from the Harbour
of Bonavista, and Soullicrn Haul is S miles N.W. by \V. \ \V. [//V.v^J from Black Head.
Tiie latter are the two extremities of lUuckhritd Bui/, which is two leagues in depth. On
the S.W . side of this bay, at nearly a league and a half to the southward of Southern
Head ate the fishing establishments on King's Cove; but this is even a less desirable place
ot shelter than Boiia\ista, lying <lirectly open to seaward, and having a foul bottom.
There is also anchorage with winds between N.W. and E.N. 10. northward, in a harbour to
the south of this, formed by iMurphy Point and that of Knight's Cove.

From Southern Head to Western Head the distance is four miles N.W. by W. ] W.
[Ih'.v/.] The coast between forms five coves, on the second of which, Kicis, is a fishing
village : but neither this nor any of the other coves is a tit place for vessels of burthen.

(iiUAT Chancf. HARHoim. — The entrance of (treat C/iance Harbour, which is an ex-
cellent anchorage, lies 10 miles W. ■; S. [S.ir. }i JF.] fiom Western Head. The passage
to it is clear, with the exception of a rock of IM feet, the Umon-bone, lying a mile and a

• Seethe Admiralty Chart of Bunavtsta Bay, &c., from the Survey of Messrs. Geo. Uolbiook
andWm. Bullock, 18'.'2.

BON A VISTA BAY

I-'

quarter soulh-weslward fn in Wesiern Head. In sailinp; for this place the safest way is,
not to sliut in Southern llead until the isle called Little Denier, bearing N, ^ W., comes
on with the outer Slmi: Island. Thus the Bacon-bone will be avoided, and you may steer
for the harbour, S.W. by W. and West, without havinji any danger to encounter until you
approach the entrance : but here, in the southern part, lies a sunken rock with only 6 feet
of water. Within this rock, and in a line with it, are two islets, called the jMustard-boivIs ;
in order to avoid the rock, be careful not to shut in the western .Mustard-bowl with the
eastern ; but, having passed the latter, you may stand boldly in, approathin<^ the shore on
either side as you please, and you niay anchor any where above the nairows in from 11 to
C} fathoms, perfectly land-locked and g(jod holding-ground. Wood and water may easily
be procured here.

At two miles E. by N. from Chance Point, (the outer point of Chance Harbour,) is a
s])ot of ground with 7 faihoms, over which the sea breaks in very heavy gales from sea-
ward, but it is not dangerous in fme weather.

To the N. by E. at one mile from Chance Point, is the rock of the same name: it is
always visible, and has no other danger near it. Chance Point as well as Cutler's Hciid, is
very steep. To the we>t of Chance or (ndl Rock, is Deer Island, which is 1] mile long
and 300 yards broad : between it and the shore tiiere is a good channel with fathoms
water in it.

The route from Deer Island to Connectiu!:^ I'oint, is S.S.W. \_S.W. by //'.] distance 7
miles, and between these there is no danger. Connecting Point divides Chandler s Reach
mto two arms, one named Clode Sound, the other (iuvse Bay.

Goose Bay. — From Connecting Point, (joose Bay runs S.W. by W. to the distance of
6^ miles; by keeping the middle of the cliannel, all dangers will be avoided, as they lie
near the shore, Snd the depths will be from 40, 40, and 3o fathoms, until to the west of
Lubher^s Hole, when tie depth will vary from 13, 12, 10, and 8 fathoms. After passing
(loose Head, when a small island called Shoi^ Island, is seen, steer so as to keep the
middle of the channel wliich divides it from Goose Head, and then anchor to the S.E. in
4^ to G fathoms. This bay is very convenient for procuring wood and water.

Clooe SorM>.— When two miles from Connecting Point, a vessel can also proceed
W. \ N. to Clode iSound, where there are two good anchorages, Loufj Cove and Love Cove.
The entrance of the first, 7.^ miles from (,'onnecting Point, is formed by Dividiuif Head ;
the anchorage here is in 4.^ to 6i fathoms. The second is 3 miles W. by S. from Dividing
Head : it is not very deep, but a mile wide in the opening; the depth of water is 4,J to
10 fathoms. Clode Sound is frequented for the timber which is found at the head of it.

Long Islands. — These islands are four in number: the channels between them are
nairow, and ought not to be tried without some knowledge of them. The easternmost of
iliem is 6 miles from Goose Head, and its south point bears W. \_S.IF. by \\\ -J- fT.] from
II. The islands have some covered rocks on the north side, but the most distant is not
more than 600 yards from the land.

Newman's Solmi is an arm of the sea, 11 miles in length ; Swale Inland, which forms
the larboard entrance, is 24 miles from Cape Ponavista, m a W.by N. ^ N. [ IV. by S.\
direction, and 10 miles from Wtstern Head. This island divides the entrance into two
passages, one to the south called Swale Tickle, the other Nexcmun\s Sound ; the first
very dirticult, and therefore ought not to be used ; the second leads to Sandy CovCy Great
and Little Happy Adventure, and lastly North Broad Cove.

Sandy Covk is situated to the N. by W. li mile from the N.E. point of Swale Island;
it is a very good anchorage, and is veiy easily known by its sandy beacli, 'iie only one on
this side of the Sound ; there is no danger in the route which leads to it, and the anchor-
age is in 14 to 4i fathoms. To the east of the entrance of this port, at one mile distance,
and to the noith of Swale Island, is the Half-way Kock, which is very steep, and at the
foot of which is '3\ fathoms ; it forms, with the coast, a channel in which there is plenty of
water, but being very narrow, it is but little frequented.

Griat and Littlk Happy ADVENTt;RE, at a mile westward from Sandy Cove, are two
snug little coves, on the same side of the Bay ; but, from the narrowness of their entrances,
tiiey are adapted only for the resort of small vessels : between these places lies a sunken
r^•ck about 80 yards from the shore, with only 4 feet of water upon it. The passage iiitr)
(treat Happy Adventure is to the N. of Sydney Island.

nONAVISTA HAY.

ifest way is,
W., comes
u in;iy steer
:er until you
1 only 6 feet
^tard-howls ;
vvl with the
he shore on
1 from 11 to
• may easily

rbour,) is a
;s from sea-

name: It IS
crs Head, is
1] mile long
li 9 fathoms

I distance 7
(Hers Reach

e distance of
I, as they lie
the west of
^fter passing
to keep the
the S.E. in

ilso proceed

Love. Cove.

dinti Head ;

m Dividing

er is 4.i to

ead of it.

n them are
ernmost of
JV.] from
tant IS not

ivhich forms

into two
'i ; the first
7otJtf, Great

ale Island ;
nly one on
ihe anchor-
e distance,
and at the
s plenty of

\e, are two
entrances,
a sunken

Issage into

North Broad Cove. — The entrance to this cove lies to the W.N.W. one mile from
Harbour Head; it is a very commodious harbour; the anchorage is good, 'and is easily
known by the direction which it takes to the West, and by Kluck Duck Island, which is
10 the South of the larboard side of the entrance, at the distance of half a mile. In
coming from tiic east to this anchorage, after passing Harbour Head, steer for Black Duck
island, for li mile, to avoid a sunken rock at 300 yards from the siiore ; tiien proceed
N. i W. or else N. by W. i W. in order to pass to the North or South of a danger which
hes in the midille of North Iboad ( 'ove, and which does not show. The north shore is
clear, the south less so, but all danger is avoided by keeping 250 yards distant from it.
U hen at the end, there is anchorage in less th;m 22 fathoms, muddy bottom. More to the
\N'est on the noith shore, there are several dangerous rocks, the outermost being half a mile
fri)ni the land. Wood and water may be procured here.

Soi'TH BitOAO CovF,. — There is another harbour on the south side of Newman's Sound
called Sout/i Hroad Cove, 3 miles distant frmn the North Cove, and lying S.N\ .by W. ,\ \\ .
[>'. ir. />// S-l from Black Duck Island. There is at its entrance a small island wliicii is
clear except on its western side, where there is a danger close to it. To enter it, steer so
.'IS to leave tl;e island to the larboard, and when in mid-channel between it and the west
side of the entrance, bear away to the anchorage which is toward the end, and between 10
and I 1 fathoms depth. To the West of South Broad Cove, and W..'^i.W. from Minchhi's
Point, is Miiic/iins Cove, to anchor in which, keep along shore from the point till you have
from 9 to 6 fathoms.

fUuHow Harhoiu. — The island called the Little Denier, \\h'\c\\ lies off the entrance of
Harrow Harbour, is situate in latitude 48° 41', and long. .5;}° 31'. The harbour, which
lies south-westward of it, is safe and convenient : it is formed by three islands, llicliard,
(loodwin, and Keat ; the entrance is about 500 yards wide, and not very diflicult of access;
the harbour is a mile long ; the lower part is rocky, and not well sheltered ; but the upper
])art is completely land-locked, and has good iiolding-ground. The course to this place,
from lionavista' (nill Island, is N.W. by W.J W., 2'i miles.

On approaching Little Denier, you must be careful to avoid the Outer Rock, lying

thvee-quarters of a mile K. -J N. from that island. It has only 4 feet of water on it ; but

-. ■ die sea constantly breaks, it is easily guarded against. Between Little Denier and

! hard's Island, there is also a range of rocks, called the Brandishes, at distances from

M other, antl extending neaiiy half way over toward Little Denier, with from 14 tn 17
feet upon them : between are channels of 7 and 8 fathoms. These make the northern
channel preferable for strantjers without a pilot. To run clear of the Brandishes, you
must keep B W/i.'t' i^oiw^ (the projection within the harbour,) a little open to the south-
ward of Smokj/ Ridge, (a range of high land at the top of the harbour,) until you bring
Hroom Head, N. by E. } E., on witli the middle Shag Island ; the passage is then witii-
out obstruction till you near Wedge Point, off which, at 70 yards, lies a sunken rock, with
8 feet of water: you may then sail u|) abreast Pudner's Cove, until you are entirely shut
in (iom the sea, and anchor in from 10 to 18 fathoms. There is a small fishing establish-
ment here; good water in Pudner's Cove, and abundance of fire-wood.* The land
about Harrow Harbour is higher than the neighbouring coast, and may be easily recognized
by Its projection.

Cow Head, which lies S.W. by W. -J- W. ( West) from Cape Bonavista, forms the Eastern
point of Saluoge Ray, which is about 4 miles in length, and contains several fresii-water
streams, but does not offer any shelter.

Damna HAiuiot'R, (vulgo Dduinablc.) The little island called Ship Island, lies in
latitude 48° 45i', long. 53" 34', and at 8 leagues N.W. }. W. [!r. ^ N.] from Cape
lionavista; and Damna Harbour lies W. J S. six miles from Ship Island. The island
may be known bv a remarkable bald tioint like a sugar loaf. The harbour is we

e(J
is

well adapt
for sniidl vessels, but its very narrow entrance discpialifies it for ships of burthen : there
a rock off the southern part of the entrance, and another off the northern side of the island
which lies in the middle of the harbour ; there is good anchorage all round the island, in 4
to 5 fathoms; sandy bottom: water may be easily procured, but very little wood.

Moiiuis CovK is a safe anchorage, situated on the North side of the island bearing that
name, which lies to the northward of Damna : in sailing for it keep Ship Island well on

* All the wood on ilic i'oa>t-side is very diminutive, but it is, generally, much larger inland.

HON' A VISTA liAV, &C.

t J

board; as you will ilius avoid the reef called llie S/iip JvmAx, which lies to the northward.
Having got inside Ship Island, avoid shutting in Lackington liock with Varket Island,
(known by its forminir <^vo remarkable hummocks,) as there are several clusters of rocks
between Ship and the liorsechop Islands, on the South side: steer for the X'arket until
ynii yet abreast of Lackinnlon Kock, then koe|) Lackinuton Rock on'ilie northern extremity
of Ship Island untd the V'.irket bears North, to clear two sunken rocks oHlhe N.E. end of
Morris Island : you may then sail directly for the (Jove, wl^ich you can enter without
fearing obstruction, and anchor in any part of it, in 2.') to /> fathoms, but the western side
of the Cove is preferable. Wood plentiful ; water scarce in the summer season.

To the N. and N.K. of Mortis Island, there is a great number of islands, surrounded by
rocks ; the principal of which are Willis, Cnltel, and Pit-Sninul Islands, but they oiW-r no
anchorages, except some coves which are only frequented by the bo;its which cruise in
these parts.* Trorn Ship Island, at the distance of 9 miles in the direction of K. by N. ' X.
[jV./J. i A'.J is Malonc's I.edfre, and from the same point, E. by N. ii N. [N.E. '} A'.]
10 miles, the rocks of the same name. These dangers also lie N.N.W. ] \V. [iV. H'. Iii/ H'.]
20 miles from Cape lionavista. On Malone's Ledge there is 4 fathoms water. The Snntfi
Jirown Hocks lie N.N.IC. :| K. [A'o;-//;] 4 iniles from Malone's Rock. I'"ive miles N.N. 10.
,1 !•:. [iV. I IF,'] from Malone's Rock, are Snntit Brown Rocks ; Muhlle Rock lies N.N.E.
[N. ^ M .] 3 miles distant, and S.E. by E. \ E, [£'as7] is a rock called Kaxtern Rock.
These rocks are the outermost of those that extend from Ship Island to OH'er or Outer
Gooseberry Island.

VARIiLTZON. — It may not be unworthy of remark, that the polarity of the Needle
is subject to several localities in different parts of Ronavista B.iy, becomin<> gradually less
as you get embayed ; and this derangement is supposed to arise from the land's being
impregnated with a mineral substance. At the Ciipes, wiiich form the Bay, the variation
of the com|)ass was ;)U" 28' ; at Harrow Harbour 28° 30'; and at Great Happy Adventure
not more than 28°, in tiie year 181(j.

GOOSEBERRY ISLES, &c.— The Gooseberry Islands arc a cluster of islets, near the
middle of Bonavista Bay. The (Jfler or Outer Gooseberry is in latitude 48^^ 58;J',
longitude 53° 27'. Erom Cape Bonavista, to sail clear of the Eastern Rock, which lies at
a mile and a half to the E.S.i']. of the Oilier Gooseberry Island, the course ii N. by W.
^ VV. and froin thence to (,'opper Island, (at the mouth of Greenspond Tickle) N. | E.
Here it is possible to obtain pilots for this and the adjacent anchorages, which are XoriTH-
WEST-AuM, Nkw llAiiiioi'R, and Cat Cove; there is al.so good holding ground between
Greenspond Island and the main ; but, the water is so deep, that a vessel is liable to drift
on shore in tlie act of weighing, nor is there sufficient room to veer to a lengthened cable
in heavy gales from the S.W., to wiiich i|uarter it is much exposed. f

Shm'S coMixo IN FROM THE Eastw.^rd, to i-Qmici Copc Fvecls, have to avoid the
Charge Rock, which lies S.E. J S. 2:\ miles from Cape Freels' Gull Island ; the rock has
only U feet of water upon it, and is circumscribed by a large spot of rough fishing-ground,
having from 8 to .30 fathoms; from the Gull Island you may run immediately southward
for the Stinking Islands, taking care not to open Capi' Frf.fls to the eastward of the
Gull; this will carry you inside the danger; keeping a good look for the iMid-rocks, which'

• Mr. Jukes, in liis Excursions in Newfoundland, (London, 1812) vol. ii. p. 91, describes the
singular nature of sonic parts of tliis archipelago, "in the passage between Trinity, or Lewis's
Island, (to the N.U. of Pit-Sound Llaiid) and the Frying-pan, the bottom of the sea consisted of
luige peaks and mounds of this while ^'raiiitc, risinj^ from the deep and dark hollows. The fextreinc
cle.irness of the water rendered these cliffs and peaks all visible as we approached them, though none
reached to within three or four fathoms of the surface; and tlie sensation experienced in sailing over
them was most singular, and to nie very unconifortalde. I could not look over the boat without
extreme giddiness, as if suspended on some aerial hei(,'ht, leaning over a tremendous gulf The
same sensation was described to me by a gentleman I afterwards met with, an experienced hunter
and sailor, as assailiufj him upon his once, in smooth water, taking a ''uat within the space of some
sunken rocks off the Wadhani Islands, on which the water broke in id weather. These rocks he
described as three peaks, ri>in}j from an apparently untathomable depth ; and the sensation, as his
boat gently rose and fell between them, was so unpleasant, and indeed awful, that he gladly got
away as fast as he could."

f The course to Uarrow Harbour, from the eastern Gooseberry Rock, is S.SV, ] W. 18 miles;
steering from the latter place to Barrow Harbour yon have to avoid Ma/tmc\f Lcdirr, n shoal lying
S. I W. one mile from the rock (above wjiter) which bears the same name; it has never less than 4
fathoms, so that, in fine weather, no danger is to be apprehended.

*.'

r,0\AVISTA UAV, lS:c

noTtliwanl.

rket Ishnd,
Ts of rocks
,'arkct until
rii pxtremily
N.E. end of
Iter witliout
vffstein yido
I.

rroundod by
liey offer no
cli cruise in
. hy N-i N.
N.E. } A'.l

iw'.b!, ir.]

The Sniiff'
liles N.N.lv

lies N.N.E.
litem Hock.
for or Outer

)f tlie Needle
radiially less
land's being
the variation
)y Adventure

;lets, near the

le 4«^ 5Bi',

which lies at

i N. by VV.

kle) N. i E.

are Nouth-

nid between

able to drift

[iliened cable

Ito avoid the
Ihe rock has
fiing-;;round,
southward
[ward of the
Irocks, which

I describes the

, or Lewis's

consisted of

I The extreme

lliougli none

In sailinf; over

Iboat without

^s gulf. Tlie

3nc('d lunifer

l)ace of some

lese rocks he

lution, its 1)1$

\e gladly got

'. IS miles;
slioal lyint:
less than 4

*.'

are just above water, and lie two miles to the N.E. by E. ,', E. of the Stinking Islands ;
but a vessel, not bound up the Hay, is enjoined to keep well outside; for should the
weather become suddenly thick and fo^"j;y (which is not unfrerpient with an ea-terly wind)
she runs a great risk of uetliui: bewildered atnong the innumerable rocks for whicli this part
of the coast is remarkable, and from which neither chart nor compass can direct the stranger.

At three-quarters of a mile N.N\'. from this CJull Island is a rock witli .'{ f.ithom-^of water
upon it. In the winter months, when the north-eastt'rly uales are very heavy and
continuous, the sea breaks exceediiiyly high over several spots of the Stinking [ian1<s, winch
lie K.N'.K. i 1'^. from the Stinking Islands: in two places there is as little as 7 f.ilhoms ; in
such weather, although a vessel would not strike, six would be in very great danger of
founderin<'' in the tremendous sea which would be apt to break over her ; but in tine
we.ithor, no danger of them is to be apprehended. Having rounded the Slniking Islands,
and wisinntj to sail into Xtw Harbour or Citt Cove, steer directly for the (JUer Gooseberry
Island, S.W. by W. \ W. untd you bring Vouch and Flou'cr\>t Is/ands to touch each
other: you will be then two miles outside the Three liockx, which lie at u mile and a
half to the southward of Flower's Islands. The outer of the Three Rocks has on it 3
fathoms of water, the middle It feet, and the inner only 11 feet. Now alter the course to
W. ; S. keeping the white face of Chalky Hills, in Locker Reach, a little on the starboard
bow, which will carry you clear of Copper Island dangers lying without Shoe Cove Point:
should the roughness of the weather ])revent your getting a ])iIot on board thereabout,
continue on this course until you bring Shoe Cove Point (which may be distinguished from
its bearing a semblance to white marble) to bear N.W. 5 W. : then siiape your course for
Indian Bay W.N.W.

NKW IIARBOCR is two miles to the westward of Shoe Cove Point. Wiih easterly
winds it is rpiite inaccessible, from its narrow entrance: in which case you must continue
onward for Cut Cove, lying four miles farther up the Bay on the same side. The Cove is
forme<l by Cat Island, and may be easily recognised, it being the only part in tiie vicinity
that is covered with i.ivk woods, the surrounding forests having been destroyed by
conflagration ; on sailing in, keep the island open on your starboard bow. Off tlie upper
part of Cat Island lie two hij^h green rocks, which you must round, the p;iss;iue formed by
them being too shoal to pass between: you may then run till you get sjine distance inside
the upper point of the Island, and then anchor in from It to 13 fathoms, widi the hawse
open to N.W., the winds from that quarter being in general most heavy and squally. In
working in, you may stand close to either shore, except off the point of the island, as there
is a sunken rock within 100 yards of it, with not more than 10 feet of water.

NORTHWEST ARM (lat. 49° 6' 30") is the best anchorage near Cape Freels ; but
its access is not without difhculty, from the multiplicity of islands that lie in the neighbour-
hood, and which are almost undistinguishable from their great semblance of each other :
the greatest danger you have to encounter, in making this place from the southward, is the
S'ortheni Hock, which lies N.E. 1^ miles from Copper Island, (known by its height and
without wood) ; it has never less than 22 feet of water upon it ; so that, in fine weather,
vessels which generally frequent this coast, may pass over it in perfect safety ; but, in hard
nales, the sea breaks over it incredibly high : to avoid it, be careful not to open I'ool's
IsL.\ND, at the entrance of N.W. Ann (which is somewhat higher and more prominent
than the rest, and which is covered with trees, except the crown) to the westward the
]\ estern Pond Hock, until you bring Bntterjh/ Island to touch the mnor point of Flower's
Island, or until Puffin and (Jopper Islands touch each other; then leavinsi the Pond Rocks
on the starboard hand, steer in for Fool's Island; which island it is advisable to keep well
on board, as there is a sunken rock lying exactly in mid-channel, between it and Partridge
Island Rocks, with IH feet^pon it; to clear which, it is impossible to give a Descriptive
Mark. The course then into the .mim is N.W. \ \\ ., and as soon as you get inside Odd
IsLAN-n, you may anchor in mudily ground with from 7 to 9 fathoms, Fool's Island Hill
bearing S.E. to S.E. by S. During thj dry summer months, vessels are compelled to send
to Lou Cove tor water, nor is wood to be procured on this part of the coast within the
distance of twelve miles.

Gr.EK.vspoND Tickle.* — ^I'his is a small harbour in latitude 49° 4' on the eastern
side of Greenspond Island, formed by several smaller ones which lie off it, and is of very

• The word Ticlde is a local name, in common use at Newfoundland, and signifies a passage
between islands or rocks.

CAPE I'llKKI.S TO CAPF. S'l'. JoIlX.

lit

'i-.

little importance, not being capable of receiving vessels whose drauglit of water exceeds
14 feet ; its dangers are in the Nort/ierti, the Cookroom, Pujin, and Harbour liocks,
but it is impossible to get in with a foul wind; or with a fair one without a pilot. Ships
sometimes anciior between the island and the main ; but the place is contracted, and the
water is very deep, add to which it is much exposed to S.W. winds, so that it cannot be
recommended as a place of safety : to sail into il, you must pass to the westward of
Copper Island, in doing which you must cautiously avoid the .l?u/.s?////»ier Rocky which
lies one mile off southwestward from that island, and has only 6 feet of water on it : when
you shut in Silver Ilair Island, with Shoe Cove Point, you are inside the danger, (ireens-
pond is a straggling place, and has several good houses and a church ; but the inhabitants
sometimes are in want of fresh water, being obliged to fetch it from the mainhind, three
miles ofl".

Trom Copper Island, in the direction of N.l-). i N. [lY. by E.] which is the bearing
of Cape I'Vfels, the coast is strewed with dangers, the outermost of which bear about
1''.. ^ N. from ( 'opper lslan<l ; among these, are the Thiee Rocks, Ij' mile from I'lower
Islands, bearinij S. by K. fiom them, and on which there is but from 1 1 to 18 feet water ;
Mid Rock, N. by E. I H. 2 miles, from Stiiikiiifr Islatich ; two banks off the Stinking
Islands, the first 1'.. by S. 2i miles, and (he other K. by N. 3 miles, from them ; there is
7 fathoms water on each of them ; the Charge Hock, 4^ miles N.N.E. from the Slinking
Islands, and 2i miles S.E, 2 S. from the middle of Gull Island, off Cape Freels ; on this
rock there is but (J feet water.

') I

'\ J

v.— The N.E. COAST i uom CAPE FllEELS to CAPT. ST. JOHN, i.ncluding
Tiu; r>AV 01- NoriiE Damk and AKcniPrxAOO or Exi'i-ons.
CAPE Fill: ELS is formed of three points, Soutk Bill, Cape Freels or Middle Bill, and
North Bill ; it is lined with veiy dangerous rocks and shoals, and therefore, it is neces-
sary to give it a wide berth. To the W. of the point of Cape Freels is a tolerably high
hill called the Cape Ridge ; its position is lat. 49° 15' 30" N., and long. 53° 26' 8" NV.
Gull Island lies S.E. \ S. 2i miles from Cape Freels: it is clear, although at nearly a
mile N. by W. from its western point there is a rock called Gull Island Rock.

Funk Island lies N.E. by E. 31 miles from Cape Freels ; it is a low and sterile rock,
100 fathoms long from E. to W. and cannot be seen more than 10 miles off, but is easily
known from the great quantity of sea birds constantly hovering over it. It is in latitude
49° 44' 15" and longitude 53" T. At GO fathoms to the northward of it, is a sunken
rock of 10 feet, on vvtiich the sea generally breaks, and more to the westward are two islets,
called the Island Rocks, with a clear passage between them, 70 fathoms in breadth.

BuENTON Rock, between Funk Isle and the VVadham Isles; a dangerous rock was
discovered on the 28th of September, 1836, during a gale and a very heavy sea, by
Capt. FLvan Percy, in the brig St. John, on the autumnal circuit with the Hon, Judge
Uienton. Heavy breakers were distinctly seen upon a ruck bearing W. \ S. a little
southerly, about 7 miles from Funk Island. The bearing was taken in a fine clear
evening, and it was the opinion of all on board, that the rock, though not appearing
above water, would take up any vessel. The position is about lat, 49" 41', long. 53° 15'.

At 7 miles N. by VV. .} W. [N. W. | IF.] from Funk Island, it is said that a rock
exists, but it was carefully sought for by Capt. F. Hullock, and was not found by him.
There is a shoal, discovered in 1841, called the Cleopatra Shoal ; its position is doubtful,
but it lies N.W. by W. i \V. [/f.] about 20 miles from Funk Island, and at 11^ miles
E. by S. \_E. by N. a JV.] from Fogo Head.

Snap Hock, or Durell's Ledge.— Al \he distance of 22^ miles N.W. by N. [N.W.
by IF. J 11',] from Funk Island is the Snap Rock. It is in latitude 49° 54' N. and
longitude 53" 37' 43" ; the sea continually breaks on it, at least in moderate weather,
and there is but 10 feet water over it. At one mile E. by N. from it there is from 52 to 40
fathoms, and to the S. by E. 2 miles, 62 to 63 fathoms.

Cat Island lies N.N.W. \ W. 6 miles from Cape I'reels ; it is connected with the
land by a tongue of sand covered by the sea. It is an excellent place for the fishery, and
in summer is crowded, though in winter nearly deserted. Before arriving on the meridian
of this island there will be seen on the coast to the south, a remarkable hill, called the
Windmill. In coming from Cape Freels, care must be taken not to approach the coast
too nearly. The soundings off Windmill Mount, at 3 or 4 miles, in the direction of the
VVadham Islands, are from 26 to 27 fathoms, bottom of large stones or gravel ; and oii

CAPi: FUELI.S TO CAl'F. ST. JOHN'.

ater exceeds
bour Hocks,
)il()t. Ships
.ted, and the
it cnnnot be
westward of
Ruck, which
on it : when
ger. (ireeiis-
e idliahitunts
inland, three

tlie bearing
I bear about
from riower
8 feet water ;
the Stinlxiiii^
etn ; there is

the Stinkini;
eels ; on tliis

, INCLVDINO

idle Bill, and
?, it is neces-
olerably high
3° 26' 8" W.
;l] at nearly a

i sterile rock,

lut is easily

in latitude

IS a sunken

ue two islets,

adth.

»us rock was
ivy sea, by
lion. Judge
1 y. a little
a fine clear
ot appearing
53° 15'.

that a rock
und by him.

is doubtful,
at 114 miles

■ong

y N. [N.W.
54' N. and
ate weather,
oin 52 to 40

Ited with t!io
fishery, and
|the meridian
1, called the
|ch the coast
[ction of the
|vel ; and on

ncaring Penguin Island, the depth will not be more than 22 to 24 fathoms, with pebbles;
and then in proceeding to Peckford Ishnd, the depth will be from '2i to 27 fathoms.

Df.adman's or TniiPASsKs May. — Headman's Bay is formed on theS.lv by Cat Island,
and on the N.W. by Dendmaii's Point; th'3 soundings between thom are from to 10
fathoms, the ureatest de|itli bem^; near the point. It is partly sandy and very clean, but
of little iinporlaiice, as it dues not offer any shelter against winds north of W.N.NV . and
E.S.E.

Afier passing Deadman's Point, to N. J W. at the distance of 4^ miles from the point,
are the two Penguin Istnnds. There is a pas«ai:e between them and the land, but to the
^\' . of the largest, there are several dangers, which render the diannel narrow and dithcult,
and it therefore, ought not to be attempted without a pilot. Tlie coast in this part is low
and sandy.

Hacgkd Harbour is 3 miles N.W. | W. from the larger Penguin Island, and is open
to the N.K. without shelter. The passage to it between the Penguin Islands and the
W adhain Islands abounds with rocks and shoals.

WADIIAM ISLANDS. — These i>lands are seven in number, arid form several
channels between them, the widest of which is about l.J mile broad. The lar;;pst of the
islands is I'echford I sin nil, which is one mile long from N. to S. ; it lies 21 miles K. by N.
4 N. [N E. 5 iV.] fioiu Cape Freels. The easternmost, an' dso the most to the N. is
cal ed Ojf'ir llaiiliam. The position of the centre of the island is lititude 19" '.ib' 3U" N.,
longitude 31° 40' 13" W.

One mile and thiee-quaiteis to the F..S.F-. of this last island, is the E.S.E. Ground, a
shoal on wiiich there is but 10 feet water. To the S.S.W. lies the .,S..S'. If. Hock; and
between these two reefs, and nearly a mile S. by W. fVom Ofl'er W adhain, there is a rock
called Ttiui C'ihi's liink. As beft)re slated, to the S. of Peckford Islaml, tiieie is, between
it and the coast of Newfoundland, siveral reefs and shoals, which render this passage very
d.fbcult: the best i)assage, if it is necessary to traverse these islands, is between H'liite
Island and Duck Island, or i.ither between this last and d'ppcr l.slnnd, in mid-channel.
White Isl.ind is the only one which is quite clear all aioiind ; it may be approached with
safety. On the W aiiiiam Islands, the sea-fowl called Mother Curi/s Chicken, breed in
vast numbcis. These buds make holes in the qround, in which they lay their egys ;
generally consisting of three or four. TliC month of the hole is invariably just large
enough to admit one bird at a time, and the stench proceeding from it is very offensive.
K^ss may be obtained ; but the operation of collecting them is so disgusting that, unless
in c.se of great necessity, they are not worth the trouble and pain which they co.it.

Rocky Fishing Gkoino. — To the N.W. of Copper Island, at the distance of 2 miles,
is a bank called the Rocky Fishing (ironnd, on which theie is from 15 to 28 fathoms depUi
of water; ai.d aiound it, the depth is between 32 and 44 fathoms. It is 'J.^ miles long,
and half a mile broad ; and it extends in a W.by N. and E. by S. direction ; its western
extiemiiy lies precisely south (true) from the mount on Cape Fogo, 3 miles off.

Rocky Hay. — At the distance of lOJ miles W.5?.\V. from Copper Island, is Rocky
VoinI, situate in latitude 49^ 25' 15'', longitufle 54" 4' 45", forming the entrance of
Rocky Biy, which is >hut in by thiee islands, White Island, Ureen hlnnd, and !\'og<'in
l.slnnd, the passages between which are quite dean. Between Rocky Point and W lute
Island, there is from 8 to 7i fathoms; between White Islaml and ife |)onit to the S of
it, 3,^ fathoms; between White and Green Islands, from 3.^ to 11 fathoms; between
Green and Noguin Islands, (3 fithoms ; and lastly, between Noggin Island and the W.
point, 14 to If) falhoms. To llie S. of the.se last two isles, that is, between them ami the
bay, the depth is generally from 5 to 8 lathoms. At the bottom of Rocky Bay, are three
cov(-s, but they are so rocky, that vessels cannot anchor in them, unless it is in that to
the S. of Niigi;in Island, which is rather belter than the others ; but this ought nut to be
used but in passing.

FOGO ISLAND.— Cai'f. Fogo, the western extremity of the island, lies N.N.W. J W.,
9j miles from the Oiler Wadliam Island, of which we have given the position. Fo'tq
Island is ISJ miles in its greatest length from E. by N. to W. by S. The northern side
of the island is very hire and rocky, witli lofty headlands rising perpendicularly from the
sea. It has seveial haibours, which are, on the Nortli, S!i(nil Vxti/ and I'ogo llnrbuur ;
on the West, //</re Bai/ ; ou the South, ^lag llnrbour, Stldom-come-bi/ Harbour, and
Little Seidom-come-by Harbour ; and lastly, on the East, Tilton Harbour

RAY OF NOTRE DAMK.

■ M

t '.!

iV I'

Shoai. lUr.— Tlie largest of all these harbours is Shoal Bay. In making for this har-
bour, coming from the East keep in-shore to avoid Dean's Rock, which is under water,
1 i mile N.W, by W. i W. from Joe Halt's Point, and N.W. J N. nearly a mile from the
larboard point of Shoal Bay. The depth of water in this bay, at an equal distance from
either shore, is from 10 to 14 fathoms, diminishint,' toward the land. It is open to N.E.
winds. A vessel can anchor in it in 5 or 8 fathoms, at the end, on the starboard side in
entering, leaving to the larboard, all the islets and rocks at the bottom of the bay. This
anchorage is called the JVatering Place.

FoGo Harhouh is considered as a good fishing place, but its entrance is difficult and
dangerous. There is a current, running to the S.E,, chiefly when the winds are from the
West ; this must be avoided as much as p sible by keeping close in-shore on Fogo Island,
until the entrance to Fogo Harbour is clearly seen ; it is narrow and shut in by several
islets ; as soon as this is seen, steer directly in the middle, where the depth will be 8, 5,
and 4 fathoms; this entrance is called West Tklile. When within, if it is thought
proper to anchor in the Western Bay, steer S.S.E. ^ E. towards the eastern side of the
harbour, until the point called Fogo Head is on with the heights in N. by W. ^ W., in
order to avoid the reefs oft' this point, which extend easterly, as far as the Harbour Rock,
which lies in the middle of the passage and shows but seldom, except sometimes at low
water of spring tides ; after this, run S.W. by S. and close in to the W. by S. or W. by N.
to anchor in 4i or 5,^ fathoms good holding-ground and well-sheltered. This harbour is
very small, and it merits the attention of those who enter in here.

To the South of Fogo Harbour, there is another, called Hare Bai/, which runs to the
South. The entrance by closing in with the larboard side, is not difficult, and there will
be found a depth of 10, 17, 11, 7, and 4 fiitlioms.

The other harbours have such narrow entrances, and otherwise so embarrassed with
dangers, that it would be imprudent to attempt them without a pilot. There is no danger
in coming from the East in making Cape Fogo, after seeing Funk Island or the Wadhain
Islands, and waiting for a pilot between the Cape and Burnt Point, which lies 6^ miles
W. I N. [W.S.JF.] from it. By not proceeding more to the West than Burnt Point,
and keeping a mile or perhaps half a mile from the shore, there is nothing to fear, the
only danger being near Burnt Point, and extending to the W. by S.

Shoals to Nortu of Foco. — To the N.E. of Fogo, there are several reefs, the outer-
most of which are as follows: to the N.E. ^ E. [iV. by E. | £,] 8 miles from the ex-
tremity of Cape Fogo, is the Inspector Rock, which breaks in bad weather. From the
same point, 8 J miles N.N.E. I E. [North'\ are the Barrack Rocks, extending above a
mile in a S.S.E. and N.N.W. direction. To the N.N.E. [N. -J W.] at the distance of
IIJ miles, lies Ireland KocA:, which sometimes breaks. This shoal is the northernmost
of those that surround Fogo Island, and is situated in lat. 49"^ 51' 50", and Ion. 53' 58' 3".
From this rock, in the direction W.N.W. J W. [IF. hi/ S.] are several reefs, the chain of
which, after a distance of 7 miles, runs W. by S. to within 2 miles off Fogo Head, the
N.W. point of the island : it is a bold precipice, 500 feet high.

BAY OF N OTZIS DADKE. — Here commences the large Bay of Notre Dame,
which comprehends the AucntPELACO of Exploits, and the bays within it. It may be
considered as limited on the E. by the W. point of Fogo Island, and on the W. by Cape
St. John. The outermost dangers in this bay are as follows :

Berry's Ground. — To the N.W. I N. from Fogo Head, 6J miles distant, is the reef
called Berry's Ground, on which the sea generally breaks, although it is covered with 10
fathoms water ; it lies also N. by W. | W. from the middle of liacalieu Island, and 4{
miles from its N.E. point ; between this point and the reef, are other shoals, called Bacalieu
Rock and JValrond Ground,

Bacalieu Island. — The middle of this island is in lat. 4()°4r 50',andlong. 54° 28' 48'.
It is H mile long from E. by N. to W. by S., and has no shelter whatever for vessels.

Old Harry.— To the N.W'. J W. [W. \ A^] 10 miles from the N.E. point of Bacalieu
Island, is Old Hurry Shoal, on which there is but 1() feet water; this danger generally
breaks, and is only 'J miles N.E. I N. from SSag Rock, at the N.W. point of Tmdinguet
Island; between this island and the coast there is found a depth of 37, 50, and 68 fathoms.

TOULINGUET. — The harbour of Toulinguet or Twillingale Island, is expo.sed to N.
and N.E. wind*. The sea comes in very heavily, and it is otherwise of little service.

n.\Y or ^•oTR^. pamf:.

S.-)

ig for this har-
i under water,
mile from the
distance from
open to N.E.
■board side in
he bay. This

is difficult and
i are from the
n FoRo Island,

in by several
» will be 8, 5,

it is thought
rii side of the
V W. i VV., in
larbour Rock,
lelimes at low
». or W. by N.
rhis harbour is

jh runs to the
and there will

barrassed with
e is no danger
r the Wadham
h lies 6J miles
} Hurnt Point,
g to fear, the

efs, the outer-
rom the ex-
From the
ing above a
distance of
northernmost
n. 53" 58' 3".
the chain of

Head, the

Motre Dame,
It may be
■NV. by Cape

is the reef
red with 10
and, and 4^
led Bacalieu

54° 28' 48'.

1 vessels.

of Bacalieu

3r generally

Ttmtinguet

l68 fathoms.

posed to N.
hic service.

The island is the resort of the fishers, and ihe most nortliert» British settlement, except
Fogo Island. It contains, with Fogo, &c., above 4000 inhabitants.

To the South of Toulinguet is Nnw WdRi.n Island, which forms, with il, a channel
called Muhi Tickle, and to the S.W, a bay n.imcd Fridays Hay ; the depth of water
varies considerably, particularly in the biy.

New World Island possesses several harbours ; the most frequented are Herring Neck,
Morton's Harbour, and Chance Harbour ; all three will shelter vessels anchoring in them.

In proceeding to .Morton's Harbour, coming from the North, care must be taken to
avoid the OW /'fo/,'fr shoal, which li^'s W. J N. [S.IV. by W. { If'.] 4 miles from the
N.W. point of Toulinguet, and 3,i miles N.N.K. J F.. [A'or/A] from Western Head on
New World Island. Having taken this precaution, steer, according to the wind, tilher
toward Gull Island oH' Western Head, or directly for the entrance of the harbour ; the
coast is clear at less than holf a mile. When the entrance is well made (nit, proceed into
it, keeping at an equal di-tance from either side, until arrived off the heights of a small
peninsula, which must be left to the larboard, passing it to anchor behind it, in 10 or 11
fathoms water.

Chance Harbour caiuiot be entered wilhoat some knowledge of it, as there are dangers
in approaching it which cannot be avoided by written directions.

Twelve miles and ahalf W. by N. [IV. S.W. J H'.] from CiuU Island, is the entrance of
the bay, at the end of which is Fortune Harbour. The N.W. point is in lat. 49° 32', and

long.

5J° 10'

It is a good, but intricate harbour, the entrance being extremely narrow and

dangerous, and the winds baffle from the high lands around. It is inhabited only during
the fishing season, and in summer, water is scarce.

Triton Harbour lies 2Gi miles W. by N. h N. [W. by S.] from Gull Island. It is on
the N.K, side of Great Triton Island. Its entrance lies between the isles called Great
and Little Denier : the shoals are bold, and water deep, but there are coves ni which
secure berths may be found. The land is covered with spruce, birch, and fir, but
the quantities have been much reduced by the annual culling. Waier in general is
plentiful here.

To the North of Triton Harbour is Long Island, on the N.W. side of which is Cutwell
Harbour; the east point of the harbour is in lat. 49*^ 37', long. 550 3i', and lies 28i miles
N.W. by W, J W. [/r. i iV.] from Gull Island. It has so spacious an entrance, that
the largest ships may beat into secure anchorage in from 10 to 5 fathoms, sand and mud.
The S.W. arm has a narrow entrance of 15 feet in depth, but wi'hin are 3, 4, and 5
fathoms, sand and mud. Here is abundance of wood and water, with conveniences for
heaving down and refitting.

If a vessel is forced by stress of weather to pass between Gull Island and Western Head,
the middle of the chaimel must be avoided, on account of a rock which lies there, and
therefore the passage must be made on either shore.

In Hall's Bay, which lies in the south-western angle of Notre Dame Bay, and the
entrance of which is S.S.W. ^ W., 21 miles from Cape St. John, is a salmon-fishery.

Nippers Harbour, to the north-westward of the Nippers Isles, is a little confined harbour,
yet the most secure on the shore of Cape St. John, with an excellent anchorage in 7, and
in the outer part, 14 fathoms. The land around is !iigh and barren, but well supplied with
good water, and may easily be known by the isles.

From Gull Island, at the West point of New World Island, to Cape St. John, outside
the islands, there is no danger which is more than a mile from the land : thus a vessel
can always tack within this distance, and if it is necessary to go more inwards, there are
several points where tliere is room.

Bishop's Rocks lie S. f W., 2^ miles, from Cape St. John. It is a reef over which the
sea breaks in bad weather, and is about 600 yards in diameter ; there is from 2g to 45
fathoms around it. To the West of this, and in mid-channel between it and the coast,
there is a bank, on either side of which you can pass. To the N.E. of Bishop's Rocks, at
the distance of 2 miles, there is another bank, on which is 29 fathoms. On the coast to
the South of Cape St. John, there are several fishing-harbours, amongst which are Shoe
Cove, Tilt Cove, Snooks Arm, &c. If it should be found necessary to attempt to put into
these ports, they will be found sheltered from all winds between E. and N. ; but with
.south-easterly winds, it would be better to anchor in Snooks Arm.

M '

>!,

: U"

36 THi; FASTFHX COAST AND WHITF. BAY,

Vr—The EASTKRN COAST and WIIITK RAY, from Cape St. John to

Oapf, Normw.

CAl'F', ST. JOHN is in Int. 40'" ST 30" N. and lonjr. .W 22' 5j" W. It lies S. by
E. i K. f.S'. K. i E.] :U) miles, from T()iiliiii,Miet Island, and is liiuh and steep. It is the
soulliern limit of the French fishery on the eastern coast of Newfoundland.

At 41 miles K.N.F.. from Cape St. .ff)I\n is (ht/l hlotui, \^\mh is (|uite .safe all around ;
the depth between it and the cou!>t varies between .'i9 mid 64 falhums ; at a mile to the
east there is 82 fathoms.

La Sc'ic Harbour is the most s.>uthern port occupied by the Frcncli fisliers. From Cape
St. .folin, hither, bear north lor 'l\ miles to dmible the point called ^orth Hi//, then
N.W. by W. .1 \V. li mile, and then \V. ] S. [.S.IF. /-// IF.] for 3i miles, to clear to the
iiortliward of I'aint L'ir/ieiiais, which is tliit on the left of the entrance of the harbour.
Tlu! whole of the c .,ist is safe, and can be, if the wind will permit, kept close the wholo
distance, l^a Scie Harbour is exposed to northerly winds, which cause a heavy sea. The
anchorage is in from H to :<.J fathoms ; it is not very ^joo oldin;; ground, and chain cables
are neces>'ary. The fl^herv in this pert fluctuates ; it is sometimes so considerable as to
nearly enuross the entire fishery, and sometimf>s the fish is not found in abundance.

To the N.W. by VV. | \V. of I'oiiif Lachcnais, 3^ miles distant, is a shod, lyincf nearly
half a mile north of Cupr Ihtnt, which is very lemarkable from a hi^h mountain; the sea
breaks over this bank :it all limes, and pariioul.irly on the uncovered rock, ('ajie Hreiit
forms the entrance of Cufifusinn H«v, in which is llnr/ionr liound ; to make which, on
leaving Cape Brent, beir S.W . J W. [.S. l/y IT. \ //'.] 3 miles. The entrance to the port
is narrow, but without danj.;er ; there is never a heavy sea, and if it is wislied, you can
•nnchor outside the port, in the first cove, in a depth of 9 or 10| fathoms, iijod ground.
The anchoracie wiilnn the port is at the end, on the left hand, and within a rock which lies
nearly in the centie of tliu harbour. In either case it will be necessary to moor both fore
and aft. It is an excellent place to put into, when the wind blows too stronj^ fioin the
N.\V. (piarter to enter I'acquel Harbour, or, when lyinp on the coast, bad weatln-r is ex-
pected. Care is necessary, on account of the sniallness of this harbour, to have the anchors
ready for moorioj^, and to shorten sail in good time.

If the first bay is anchored in, the larboard anchor ought to be dropped at soon as you
have doubled ti.e starboaid point, and cany the staiboard anchor towards the point of the
inner entrance, veering both cables eciually, and tiien having two anchors aft, to haul as
much as po>sible in the bay.

At one mile N.F. ij F.. from Harbour Round, is Brent Core, called by the French, Petit
Coup de Hache ; it is a fishing place for boats, but ships should not come here, for there
is but little depth of water, and the bottom is uneven and rocky. Tliese two harbours are
of little importance to the fishery, lying too deep in Confusio-.i Bay for the cod-fish to
enter.

On the whole of the coast between La Scie harbour and Harbour Round there is not less
than ten fathoms water close in-shore.

On leaving Harbour Round for Pucqnet Harbour, do not appronch the loft-hand shore
too nearly, as there is a rock about mid-way between the entrance of the haioour and the
point which forms the entrance of the lower part of Confusion Bay ; it is close in-shore.
This last bay is not frequented, as it is open to the winds from the N.E.

Pacqui T IIauboiir.— »From Harbour Round to Paccjuel Harbour, first steer K.N.E. for
2 miles, then N.W. by N. [N.W. by IF. J JV.'] 31 miles, taking care to avoid the rocks
which lie three-quarters of a mile from the Gros Morne.

Pacquet Harbour may be known at its entrance by the high lands wliich lie to the S. ;
it is very safe, and can be used by all vessels. The position of the Gros Morne is in lat.
490 58' N. and long. 55° 45' 8" NN". At the starboard point, which is low, are three small
rocks and a shoal. The depth of water in the entrance is 23, 21, and 19 fatlioms ; the
harbour then separates into two arms ; the one to the N.W., where the fishing establishments
are, is commonly called Pacquet, and the other, to the S.W., is called by the French the
Baie de Paris. In the north-western arm and a little on the left-hand on entering, is a
shoal, on which there is but little water ; it is uncovered sometimes. Vessels anchor more
to the N., mooring both forward and astern; the depth is from ll^to 14 fathoms, and

ruOM CAPF, ST. JOHN' TO C.\I>E NOK.MAN,

OUN to

It lies S.by
. It is the

all around ;
t mile to the

From r!ape
h lii/l, tlu'n

clear to llie
the liarlxnir.
sc the wliolo
'y ac'i. The
chain cables
lerable as to
aiice.

lyiii'^ nearly
lain ; the sea
( 'a|)e I5reiit
ce which, on
e to the port
0(1, you can
!Ond (Trouiid.
L'k which lies
o(ir both fore
<f\^ fiom the
eatlitT is ex-
e the anchori

soon as you
)i)iiit of the
to haul as

Pencil, Petit

re, for ihcre

uirbours are

cod-fish to

e is not less

-hand shore
our and the
|)se in-shore.

E.N.E. for
the rocks

to the S. ;

le is in lat.

Jlhree small

Ithoms ; the

libiishments

French the

jtering, is a

ichor more

Ithoms, and

diminishes in approachint; the end. The anchors will lie in 5J fathoms; a v»ssel which
only anchors in passing oupht lo lie in Hi to I'J fathoms.

In the Haie de Paris the depth is QO, IR, 13, 11,0, and 6 f;ilhom9, and when this las*
depth is att lined, vou ou.;ht to anchor; it is u'ood lioldinK-i^ro'ind, and moor in the direc-
tion ot the coast. The entrance t(» Pacquet Harbour oui,dit never lo be atti'tiipted with a
strone brpfze from between the N.W. to the S.W., as the land-squaHs here are \ery strong
and chanceable, and it would be dangerous lo miss stays in a phuc so narrow is this; it
would he better to lie-to outside till the wind dropped, or if bud weather should be feared,
to make for Harbour Round before night.

St. nAiiuF, or lIoiisF. Islands. — At 14 miles NF,. by F. [iV.V.E. \ E.'] from the en-
trance of Pacfjiiet llarbour, is the S.I-'. point of (hcaf St. Umhe Ulniul ; the j-nialler
island is N.N.I'.. [.V. ] IF.] from the same, at the distance of 13 miles. Metween these two
islands is a clear and ^ood i^issa'^e, with a <h'pth of \\u to 44 fathoms, with black mud. To
the S. of these islands there is the same quality of irround at Oti and 70 faihoins ; but in the
middle of the rliannel which sepirates thein fro a Newfoundland, no bottom was found at
70 fathoms. Metween them and .Min;^'s Mi^lit (Baie des Pins) the depth is )j;enerally great.

The rocks which border these islands are too near the shoie for a vessel to fear them,
with the exception of those which are at the eastern point of the larger island, some of which
are half a mile distant from it. To the N.F. of ihe centre of this island, at nearly \\ mile
distant, then; is also a rock, around which is fiom \V) to 18 fathoms; there is between it
and the coast a passage, with a de))tli of 4^1 faihoms in the middle oi" it.

On the south side of (Ireat St. D irbe is a small shut-in bay, where boats can find shelter in
bad weather. At one mile to the S.F. of this bay is a shoal, ab'uU one-thud of a mile from
the shore, and near which there is 4i fathoms.

Ilurdij Jlir hour. —Wood Island lies N. .J li. [/V. N. IF. i IF.] 3 miles from Pacquet
Harbour, forming Hardy llarbour; it is a <,'()(. d fi-hing pi. ire, but inconvenient during
strong winds at sea, on account of the difficulty that boat^ find in entering. The ships
anchor at Pac(|uet Harbour, and from thence the fishing utensils and other necessaries are
sent during the season.

The N. shore of U ood Island must not be approached too near, on a:count of the rocks,
which extend from 1)00 lo 4U0 yards from it.

MiNo's HioiiT. — At 4 miles N.W. by \V. of Wood Island, is the entrance of Ming's
Uiglit, or liaie des Pins, at the end of which there is an anchorage; but, besides that, this
bay ort'tTS few resources for the fishery ; it is inconvenient from its distance (rom the ships,
thus IV is but little frequented. There is no danger, but a shoal on the left-hand shore,
which extends 400 yards at the m<ist from the shore, and which is two miles from the i-let.
There is abundance of timber in this bay. Leaving the Ming's Bight, going to the westward,
we come to the Minsk's hlunds, or the hlea i>f l^ines ; these consist of two large rocks,
having between them and the W. point of the bay, a passage, in which is a dej)!!! of fiom
18 to (3ti fathoms, and is about half a mile long; but geneiully the Isles are left on tiie lar-
board in going out. To the west of these Islands is CJrifn Bay, which is about ten miles
deep, and three in its greatest width. Its depth is very unequal, and varies from 90 to 18
fath(mis, but is very irregular, except at the end, where it lessens from 'I'l to 5^ and 3.i
fathoms. At the entrance of this bay, in the direction of N. J V\ . [A'. IF. k iV.] and at a
distance of 1^ mile from Ming's Islands, is a low rock, called 'lite S'istrr,s, around which the
sea almost continually breaks ; and to the N. by \V. \ W. from this, at half a mile distance,
is a shoal, on which there is but three feet water. These are dangerous shoals.

From Isle of Pines to Piireon Lslmtd, which forms the southern entrance of Fleur-de-Lis
Harbour, the route is N. i W. [iV. IF. if JV.] and the distance 5:f miles. On the north side
of this island, but close to it, is a small rock.

Fi,Ei'R-DK Lis IlAHBorii is difficult to distinguish when near the shore, although when
at a sufficient distance, its position is indicated by a mountain over it, which has the form
of the head of a fleur-de-lis, and from which it derives Us name.

There is no danger to be feared in approaching the entrance ; but when in the harbour,
it will be necessary to keep close on the riyht-hand shore, to avoid a rock, on which there is
but 5 or 6 feet water, and which lies nearly two c.ibles' lengtli cast of the south point of the
harbour islet. When within the islet, you can anchor in '.i^ to 4 J fathoms, sheltered from
all winds. Vessels should not attempt to beat into this harbour ; it is better to anchor to

TIIK EASTKUX COAST AND WIIITI. IJAY,

the N.R. of the isle, ami then haul further in. There \% more water to the west of the islet
than there is in its channel ; also a shi|) drawing more than IG feet, shnuM not endeavour tu

ItasH It, hut oii^'ht, on the contrary, to anchor to the S.K. or to the S. of the i.slet, whete will
\e found from 10^ to .5.^ fathoms water.

WlllTI'i MAY. — At 2i milt's N.W. from the point which forms the slarbo.ird entrance
of Fleur-de-lis Harbour, is I'ailritl^c I'oiitt, situate ni lat. M)' ()' 1 V, and loni;. 5t)° ;>' l\" VV.
It forms the south ponii of the entrance of While Hay. Tiie wotern point of Little .St. Harbe
Island bears K.S.K. [ I'l.li;/ A'.] 10 miles from it. The soundintjs between these two places
are 04, 7'2. 106, Ofi, .ind lastly 2(» fithoins near to Little St. Hatbc Maud, with a botloin of
black mud. 1 he depth of White ll.iy i^ more than 46 miles, and above Hi in breadth ; it
is very safe in its whole extent. (Jeneially, at two miles from the south shore, there is no
bottom at IK) fathoms; nor on the north shore at 70 fathoms ; and this eoiitinues, proceed,
ing into the bay until within a mile of the River I had, or nearly at the end, close to a small
isle called Miller Island; then it is .TJ, '>7, «i, and 10 at the moulh of the river; but it is
seldom that the bay is penetrated so far as this, as it has yond harbours on either shore, and
of easy access. In the middle of the bay there is no bottom at 119 fathoms.

The current runs out of this bay on the south side, bears S.E. ] K. to the heights of Cape
Partridge, and enters the bay on the north side.

Lotjsfer Ilurlwur lies W.S.W. \ W. [S.W. i S] at a distance of 12 miles from Point.
Partrid^je ; it is a small port of a circular form, having a very narrow entrance, and in
which there is but 7 or H feet water, although there is found a de|)tli of 10.^ and 1 i \ fathoms
when inside. Vessels of a slight draught of water can enter at the proper state of the tide;
but it is as well to remark that the tide rises but 4 feet at neap and 6 feet at spring tides, and
which is the case in the whole of the bay. It is high water, full and change, at 6^ hours.
It is necessary, in entering Lobster Harbour, to keep on the larboard shore, till to the west
of the south p(>int of the entrance, on the north of which there is a small rock near the land.

At 4 miles S. W. by W. j W. from Lobster Harbour, is the Southern Ann,i\\c first indentation
met with in proceeding along the coast from Partridge Point ; it is a large and salt; harbour
for a man-of-war ; the anchorage is in 15 to 17 fathoms. When the larboard point is shut
in by that of the starboard, a second point will be seen in a S.I'', direction, which leaves,
between it and the coast, a very small passage, entirely closed by a mussel-bank, which
dries at low water. Heyond this, there is again a depth of 16 fathoms. Hetween Cape
Partridge and this harbour there is, close in-shore, a depth of at least <) fathoms, and at a
mile distant, 33, 39, and 49 fathoms.

To the S.W. by W. J W. of the 'V. point of the South Arm, and IJ mile distant, is the
Middle Arm ; at the entrance is a small rocky isle, from whence runs a bank, on which
there is but from 5 to 10 feet water. On the eastern side there is another shoal, which runs
out from the coast as far as the preceding, so that the entrance may be said to be shut in by
them, though there is a very narrow channel, which is nearer the isle than the eastern side.
Within this shoal the harbour enlarges, and has a depth of 9 to 2J fathoms water. This
port cannot be used but by very small vessels.

hauling Point bears W. ,J S. [Sjr. J HM 6i miles from the point of the Middle Arm ;
it forms the entrance of the Western Ann, This part of the coast is not so clear as the
parts just described, but by keeping at a distance of one mile, the rocks and shoals may be
avoided, and of which, those farthest out are near the Pigeon Islands, and the two points
we have just mentioned. The Western Arm extends for '2 miles to the S.E., and vessels
can enter in safety in 14 and 15 fathoms water ; at the entrance, to the N.R., is Bear Cove,
where small vessels can moor, sheltered from the wind, in lOJ fathoms. There is a second
called Wild Cove, exposed to winds from the N.W., and with a rocky bottom. This part
of White Bay is much narrower, it not being more than 6.^ miles. The N. point of Sop
Island bears W.N.W. J W. [fr.SW. h W.] from Hauling Point, 8 miles distant; and that
of Coni/ Arm Head, N. J W., [Njr. by N. i \V.] at a distance of 9 miles.

Proceeding to the S.W., towards the bottom of the bay, at 6 miles from Hauling Point,
there is a small inlet called Purbeck Cove, where vessels can safely anchor in 10 and 11
fathoms. This is the last anchorage on the S.K. side of White Bay, and its approach is
without danger.

To the W. by N. [fr. by S. J S.] of the entrance of Purbeck Cove, at the distance of
1 J mile, lies the North point of Grnndbys Island, called also Middle Island; it has no
shelter or cove for boats; at about 400 yards from the S.E. shore is a shoal, with 8 feet

KUOM (APt ST. JOHN TO CAl'E N'OUMAK,

est of the islet
; endeavour to
ct, where will

(oird entrance
. 56° :i' i\" W .
.illleSt. ii.irbe
Bse two places
[h a l)()tloin uf
in lueadtli ; it
re, there is no
lies, proceed-
losf (o a small
ivor ; hut it is
lier shore, and

eights of Cape

?s from Point
ranee, and in
dill rathomi
iL' of the tide ;
rini? tides, and
', at (3 1 hours,
till to the west
near the land.

rst indentation

d saft; harhour

[I pouit is shut

which leaves,

l-l)ank, which

between Cape

ms, and at a

istant, is the
Ink, on whicli
d, which runs
be shut in by
eastern side,
water. This

^liddle Arm ;
clear as the

loals may be
two points
and vessels
Bear Cove,
is a second
. This part
loint of Sop

bt; and that

juling Point,

10 and 11

■approach is

distance of

it has no

with 8 feet

water on it ; Grandby's Island is distant 1 1 indes from Miller ItlamI, which is within one
rnde of the end of White Hay ; continuing the coast, there is found to the N.W. of Miller
Island, (iulil Cove, where tlit- river divides into several branches, the streams from which
deteriniiie the currents. I'roceediiik? thence toward the N.l'., and then to the northward,
we arrive at Spair Point, which is directly H'. (true of (Jrandby's Island, which is l.^i
miles fiom the river at the end. The whole of the co.i>t between Spear Point and the end
of the bay, is very safe, and ihere is not less than from I'J to 59 fulioms water close to
the shore.

Sop hbiml, to the N. of Cajie Spear, bears W. J S., [.S'./r. \ W.] 3.1 miles from Par-
iridue Point ; it is ai)oiit 3^ miles loiii; fioni W. to Iv, and 1^ broad fioin S. to N. ; near
its Sonih side is a small island called iinala' Island ; they form touether, a loii^ passage
callf-d Sop'i Arm ; u vessel can anchor just within the northern extremity of Sop Island,
where from 20 to 2M fathoms water will be found. To proceed more to the S.NV., it is
necessary to keep close to Sop Island, because the coast of the continent is not so safe ;
there is a rock at half-way between it and the island, at neatly 3 cables' length from the
uncovered rock in mid-channel ; but having passed this rock, there is anchorage either
between 8op and (ioat Islands, or between the latter and the continent, in a de[ith of 4{
or U fathoms.

There is a cove on Sop Island which bears its name, and to the North of Goal Island,
on the continent, two other bays, called Iker Covet.

At the distance of 3 J miles N.E. [N. hu K." from the North point of Sop's Island, is the
entrance u( Jiifl<son Arm, ■ i which there is a lepth of 'l.i to 2.'> fathoms, except in a small
bay called Itodfnther Cove . lyiii; on the ritjiu hand in enterinsj, and in which a vessel can
moor f{)re and aft. This port pro('uces tl e best timber of all those in White May.

Frenr/iman's Ctnr is Qi miles N K. '.y K. ^ Iv [S'.X.K. I K.] from the entrance of
.lackson Arm, after iloubliiiK a low ponii which ndvaiit -^ a little to the S. by E, ; it offers
a good and safe anchorage in 9 or 1 1 > udioins.

Proceeding fiom the entrance of Frenchman' "ove N.K. i N. [iV. by E."] 4 miles, vrc
come to Conif Arm Head, which is the most rt nurkable land on the western side of White
Ray ; it lies \V. \ N. [S.ir. hi/ \V. } ll'.l 2:^\ miles fro Partridge Point, and advances,
nearly in a straight line, in the form j: .; peninsula, leaving between it and the continent,
(ireut Cornj Arm, which affords no shelter to the tisliin'„' vessels ; hi t in the smaller arm
of the same name, lying to the west of Cony Arm Head, there is a vv.) E,ood anchorage for
small vessels ; its entrance is not sufficiently deep for vessels of a large draught.

Three and a half miles north of Liltle ^'ont/ Arm, is Devil's Cove, which is very narrow,
and open to winds from the S.K.; its depth is about 4.1 fathoms. To the N.W. by W. J W.,
[fr. \ S.] 18i miles from Partridye P. it, and also X. E. by K., [iV.iV.E. \ K.] loj miles
from Cony Arm Head, is Great Cat Arm, and 2.^ miles farther in the same direction. Little
Cut Arm. In (ireat Cat Arm the depth of water is from 37, 3.'), 29, 27, 24, 20, to 15 fathoms,
at the end of the arm, where it is quite safe, and sheltered by the land. At the end of the
north point lie some rocks, which are above water; to avoid them, keep quite close to the
south shore ; but in going into Liltle Cat Arm, it is belter to keep on the north side, as
there is a rock near the land on the opposite side. The entrance to this arm is narrow, and
there will be found in it '''^nth of 22, 9, and 3.i fathoms; the least depth of water will be
found on the south side ''■c harbour, within the points. To the N.W. \ N., [IT. bi/ JV.
I N.] J 5 miles from Partridge Point, and N.E. by K. } K., 6 miles from Little Cat Arm,
is Little Harbour Deep, much exposed to winds from the eas»ern quarter, and by no means
good as a harbour; '-.tl the north point of its entrance, there are some uncovered rocks,
about half a mile fioiL the shore, and inside of them there is a passage, the depth being 13
fathoms; but h( height of the land frequently causes sudden and strong gusts of wind,
when it blows from between the S.W. and N.W., and it is therefore advisable, if it is not
necess-:ry to close in with the land, to go outside of them. There is no great depth of
water in any pait of the bay, and the extremity of the bay, from about midway from it»
entrance, is shoal water ; this will be found by the lead, as toward the entrance there is
about 20 fathoms, which suddenly slioalens to 5 fathoms on the edge. The north point of
Little Harbour Deep, is that of the peninsula which separates it from Union or Grandea
Vaclies Cove, of whicli it consequently forms the southern point. This harbour has no more
shelter than the former, and is but little, if at all frequented. The north poini of its entrance
appears like an island, and lies N.\V. I W., [A'. M'. by \V. I W.] at adistari:;e vf 15 miles
from Partridge Point.

I '.i

i i

il i

I. I';

] 1

49 THE EASTERN COAST AND WHITE BAY,

From the north point of Grandes Vaches, running 7 miles N.E. by E. i E., we meet
with Orange Bay or Great Harbour Deep, which is easily recognised by the low lands at
its entrance, which are less elevated than any of the coasis nordi of \N hile Hay ; it is distant
16 tiiiles N. by W. [A', il', \ iV.) from Parlridue I'nint ; this hay is s[)acioiis, and has on
the ri'irih side of the e'ltrante a small cove, that is iVeqtifnled by the lishin^ vessels. At
2.J nidt's from ihe points of the enirance, ()i;inj;e May divides into two arms, one to the
north-west, and die otiicr to the west ; these two aims have no anchorage, on account of the
great depth of water, unless it is at the end of the hist arm.

Foruciiii II Alt HO I 11. — In proceeding' along the coast to the north-east, thene.xt is rourche
Ilarhonr, at a distance of lOi miles from the entrance of Oraiij^'e Hay. This harbour runs
to the west for 2 miles from its south point, tiien to the north, formins; a small bay, and
then continues to the west. It is in lhi^ noiiheiii buy, which is very narrow, short, and
surrounded by very hi^^h land, that vessels anchor in sixteen filhoms water, muoiint^ fore
and aft ; but it can only receive small vessels ; if ships are necessitated to enter Fouichu,
they are oblii;ed to proceed to tne end, nearly 15] miles, to anchor in 18 filhoms. The
souiidinjfs met with from the entrance aie, on the iioith side, 4.'3, 57, 45, 19, 20; on the
south side, 4rt, 3;5, 31, 15, 20; and at the end there ate IB and 14 fathoms.

liooi'ivr, or Sans-Fono IIarhoiu, lies N.E. | F., 5 miles from the North entrance of
Fourchc Harbour; it separates into two bays, one to the North, the other to the West.
You can anchor in the noilliern bay in (j fathoms; it is, in reality, exposed to winds from
the south, but there is no danger, if the vessel is properly nioore<l ; in the western bay it
is more sheltered, but the depth there is not less than 20 or lo fathoms. The anchorage
in the north bay, is that also recommended by ('.i[)tain Hullock, haviiij^ been occupied by
his slii|i, while siirveyin<( this coast. Tiie entrance of Hooping Haibour lies N.N.IC. \ E.,
[iV. ,J IF] at a distance of 27 miles from I'arlrnltze Point, and the western end of the
smaller Horse, or Si. IJarbe IslamI, bears S. i \V,, [.S'.N./!,'. \ /•.'.] 2}3J- miles distant,

Canada or Canary Ha v. — Canada lleafi, on the South side of the entrince of the bay
of die same name, is very hiuh land, and may be distinguished at a great distance, in coming
from the north or Irom the south, but from the high lands of llie interior at its back, is
difhcult to lie recogni/ed in comiiii" directly from the east. It is situated 5 miles N.E. by
E. 4 E. [N.A'.E. 3 E.] from Hooping Harbour.

The entrance of Canada Hay is nearly 'i Uiiles broad ; formed, nn the south by Canada
Head, and on the noith by I'omt .'li^uilleHes ; the bay is upwards of 12 miles long; is
divided into several aims, which are very sate, and conserjuently can give shelter to vessels
that are obliged to make tor them, from strong winds at sea. Amoiiv; tliese anchorat;es are
Biclie^s Ann and the (ioii(f're. If a vessel is obliged to seek shelter 111 Canada Hay on
account of bad weather, with the wind between south and east, it can anchor in Ihche's
Arm, on the north-east of Eunice Island, between it and the coast easuvard of il, or at
the end of Hiche's Arm. To make for the hrst of these anchoiages, on enterini; t anada
Bay, a beith must be given to Point Aiguilleites, so as to j)ass it at 5 cables' leiigtlis, |)ro-
ceeding till the most westerly part of the cape is to the north ; then steer along iui^ke
Island, which is only divided fi(un the continent by a few islets, keeping close, so as lo
anchor on its north-east side, between it and the land ; the depth is great, but the holding
ground is good, and ilfere never is a heavy sea. In this passage, tlieie is no other danger
but the rock which lies off Point .Aigudlcitcs, about 700 or HUO yards distant.

To proceed into liiehe's Arm, bear to the North, after passing Fnghe Island, taking care
to keep nearer to the eastern shore than to the western, and anchor nheii IR, 16, or 14
fathoms are attained. There is no danuer in this arm, after having avoided those of Point
Blanche, which lies to the N.NE. of Englce Island, and which is boideied with dangers,
particularly on its west and north sides. The rock which is firthest ot! from it, is \V . by
S. .i S. [.S. IF. ] .S.] nearly one mile distant, and N. by \\ . \ W., one mile from the south
point of Engh'e Island. This rock is never uncovered. \\ iiliiii the southern extienity of
Englce Island there is an anchorage for small vessels ; and boats can, at half tide, pass
between the isl.iiid and the continent, from this to the anchorage on the north-cast side
before mentioned.

The best anchorage in Canada Day is, without doubt, that of the Gouffre, which is to the
west 3^ miles fiom the north point of the bay. To make for tins harbour, after leaving
the north point of the b.iy, steer towards it, until a white point which tn nds a little to the
north is seen ahead, and which must be passed at a little distance ; as soon as this is
doubled, bear towards a small rocky islet, which often appears part of the land, and when

FROM CAPE ST. JOHN TO CAPE NORMAN.

\ E., we meet
e low hiids at
r ; it is (Jislant
s, ami luis on
;t vessels. At
IS, one to the
account of the

lext isFourcIic
i liaiboiir runs
mall bay, and
ow, sliorl, and
, mooting fore
■nier Fouichu,
f.illionis. The
9, 20 ; on the

th entrance of
• to the West,
to winds from
western bay it
The anchorage
n neciipicd by
N.N.i:. .1 K.,
;rn ei\d of the
distant.

ince of the hay
nee, in coming
at its back, is
miles N.K. by

ith by ('anada

tniies liiti'„' ; is

elttT to vessels

lanclidiaues are

".inad.1 Kay on

lor in liiche's

(I of it, or at

tt^riiii; ( anada

lfn<^ths, [)ro-

|- along l'ji<;lte

lusc, s(j as to

ut the holding

other danger

|i(l, taking care
IB, 16, or 14
jiiose of Piiirit
Iwilli dangers,
It, is W. by
trom the south
n exfietMty of
lalf title, pass
liorilucast side

k'hich is to the

after leaving

la little to the

pon as this is

id, and when

(his is recognised, stand to larboard and enter the harbour, dropping the first anchor a little
within the islet, and mooring N.W. and S. E. The depth in this anchorage is from 14 to
15 fathoms, good holding ground, and sheltered from the wind and sea. Hy attending to
the lead a small vessel can tack into this small harbour, there being a great depth of watei
close to the shore. Coming from the South, the <lirection of the While point of the entrance
of the Gouffre des Canaries is N.W., and the distance to run IJ mile.

Canada Harbour, which is the first on the larboard hand on entering the bay from
which it derives its name, is exposed to winds from the N, E., the anchorage is very bad,
and the bottom rocky ; it would be imprudent to anchor here, as a vessel would be ex-
posed to great damage if the wind should blow strongly from between north and east; it
is not frequented except by the fishing-boats, the ships belonging to the fishery anchoring
in the (Jou^fre. The fishing establishments of Canada Bay are in Canada Harbour.

There are other anchorages in the North or Chimney Ann, such as Beaver Cove, but
they are too distant, unjess a vessel finds itself obliged to put into them ; should this be
the case, and being near the S. point of Engloe Island, run N.N.W. J W. for two miles,
when the Point of IJiche's Arm will bear K. by N. \ N. ; then bear N.E. by N. until to the
west of an islet which lies across a small bay, called HclCs Month ; thence keep close to
the eastern shore of the Arm, in order to avoid a shoal, the eastern extremity of which is
E.N.E. from the islet; and lastly, when two points arc seen, which approach each other
and contract the Arm at this part, which is 1^ mile from the islet, the small harbour of
Beaver Cove will lie on the left hand, and is beneath Clouds Hilts; the anchorage in
this harbour is in 7 fathoms, mooring S.E. and N.W. Spars and timber can be obtained
in the North Arm.

IIii.LiF.u's or BoUTiTou Haruoi-r. — Proceeding from Canada Bay to the E, by N. for
4i miles from Point Aiguilleltes, we arrive at llillier's or Boutitou Harbour, which is a
good fishing-place, but loo small for more than three vessels to lie in safety : it is separated
into two small bays by a high point ; it is in the first of t!iese bays to the starboard in
entering, that the anchorage is ; the depth at the entrance is from 16 to 18 fathoms, and
vessels moor fore and aft, hauling as much as possible into the bay. Half way between
Point Aiguillettes and the north point of llillier's Harbour, is a reef running about 600
yards from the shore ; all the rest of the coast is without danger. At the distance of 6f
miles E. by N. ['N.E. \ E.I from Hillier's Harbour, lies Fox Cape, the south point of a
peninsula, forming, with the coast, the entrance of Conche Harbour ; at the foot of Vox.
Cape, which is high and perpendicular, is a shoal, which extends nearly COO yards in a
south direction.

CoNCJiB Hauuol'R is open to winds fTOiTi the S.S.W. and S.E. which send a very heavy
sea into it, notwithstanding which, vessels anchor before the fishing establishments, mooring
fore and aft. There is also anchorage at the end of the harbour, near the isthmus of Cape
Rouge Harbour, in 5 fathoms. There is no danger in the harbour, and at an equal distance
from either shore, there is, proceeding from Fox Cape, 50, A'l, 39, 2.5, to 5 fathoms.

Cape IIoi'oe. — Cape Rouge Harbour is one of the largest on the coast of Newfound-
land ; its entrance is two-thirds of a mile broad, and a vessel can easily beat into it ; wood
and water are also obtained here. From Fox Cape, the distance hither is rather more than
three miles, in a N.E. by E. \ E. direction, to the S. point of the entrance, which is called
Point Frauderesse, in lat. 50° 54' 30" N. and long. 55'^ 46' 2" W. The Frauderesse is
a shoal, near the point, which projects nearly 400 yards to the N.E. From this shoal
to the S.W. end of the harbour, the coast is lined with flat rocks, which render it necessary
not to approach too near : the Champ-Paga is a rocky bank, of which the S.W. extremity
lies exactly W., true, of the Frauderesse, and the N.E. part W.N.W. of the cape forming
the northern side of the entrance of the harbour ; its centre, on which there is but (i or 7
feet of water, is in the direction of the Frauderesse, on with the most southern point of
firoais or Gioix Isle ; it lies at an equal distance from each side of the S.W. part of the
harbour, so that it may be avoided by keeping two-thirds of the breadth of the channel
from eitlier coast, after pa.ssing Point Frauderesse. On the east of it there is 5 fathoms,
on the west, 8, and to the south, 1 8 fathoms. Many vessels anchor here as the fishing estab-
lishments are to the S.W., but the bottom is not very good holding ground. It is belter
to anchor in the northern Arm, and all large ships or men-of-war ought to anchor here ;
the entrance is easy, and there is nothing to fear at a cable's-length from the shore; proceed
up the Arm till abreast of a strong stream, which falls from the mountains lo the west, and
anchor here in 19 to 24 fathoms ; the bottom is good, and the sea is never heavy. There

THE EASIEIIN COAST AND WHITE BAY,

I. ,

is another anclioiage to tlie N.NV. of Point Frauderesse at the foot of a hill, of which a
part is of loose stones and the rest wooded ; the depth here k 12 or 14 fathoms; this
anchorage is called Priest's Cove : although in the opening of the harbour the wind is not
felt here, it is better that not more tlmn one vessel should anchor at Capo Rouge, and
not to stay more than 24 or 30 hours; if there is any appearance of bad weather abroad,
this harbour should not be made for. To the S.E. of Point Frauderesse at the distance
of 2.J miles, is a small islet called Roufre. Island, which is quite safe all around ; the
soundings between it and Cape Rouge Harbour are 18,32, 31, and 14 fathoms. On
leaving Cane Rouge Harbour the land runs to the N.Fj. to the (jonde viotintfiin, which is
peaked and joi-ied to the land by a low isthmus, and appears as if separated from it.

BELLE ISLE SOUTH.— The N.E. point of this island is in lat. 50^ 18' and long.
55" 22' f)2" ; it is 9 miles long from N.E. to S.W. and fi broad from N.W. to S.E. It
is safe all around except on the south, where there are several rotks, both above and
beneath the water, some of which arc more than two miles from the land. The most
distant is nearly half a mile to the W. of a rocky islet lyin;/ S. of the Belle Isle, named
South litck ; it is S.E. \ E. [E. hij N.] a^a distance of 19 miles from Point Ai<;uillettes.
The harbour of Belle I.sle is on its S.W. side ; it is very incommodious, and can receive
but one or two vessels at most. Tlicy are obliged to anchor oulsidi;, and to haul aft into
a small chatmel between an island and the .'^liore, using four anchors besides the fwst,
which outht to be a bower-anchor and chain-cable. In this position the South Uoek will
bear, on with an island nearer the land, to the S. * W. Hiiweeii the reefs on the S.W.
side of the i.sland and the South R(!ck, tlie jia^sage is more than a mile broad ; tl>e depth
of water varies from 7, 12, 17, to '2\ fithnms, the depth increasing nearer the Bock, and
diminishing towaid the reefs. On the south part of the west side of Belle isle is Giicn
Island, which is small and about a third of a mile from the .'horc ; about GOO yards to
the N.W. of this is a shoal, near which is IG f.iihoms. Between Pelle Isle and the coast
of Newfoundland there is no bottom at GO or G5 fathoms excepting near the land, but in
mid-channel between it and Canada bay the depth is 82 fathoms, black mud. The sound-
ings to the E. of Belle Isle, 1 1 or 12 miles oil", are 07 fathoms, black mud ; ai 7 miles
E. of the N. end of the island, 80 fathoms, mud and shells; and 4 miles from the N.E.
point to the E. 82 fathoms, brown mud.

GiiOAis or Gnoi.x Island. — The channel between Groais and Belle I.sle is 5.J miles
broad, the depth on the N. is 43 fathoms, to the S. 39, and in the middle 5 t to 58 fathoms,
and generally the bottom here is of brown mud mixed with rotten shells. Tiiere is no
shoal or danger in this passage. Groais Island is very high, and its surface is even ; its
most northerly point is in lat. 50° 59' kV, and long. 53^ 27' 23". It is nearly 7 miles
long from N. to S. and \i\ miles in its greatest breadth. It is very safe on its E., S., and
W. sides; but to the N.W. there are several rocks above and beneath water, which extend
to the North. To avoid these rocks, keep the north point of the island always to the S.
of S.E. J E. At the N.E. point are three small islands called the Sisters, but they ought
not to be passed too closely. In tine weather Groais Island may be seen at a di.stance of
15 or 18 leagues. To the E. of the island there is no bottom at (JO fathoms, 3 miles off;
but to the N.N.E. at 2 miles the soundings are 67 fathoms, and between the island and
the coast, 47, 66, 70, 62, and lastly, 'M fathoms, at less than a mile from the shore. The
channel between Groais and Newfoundland is rather above 7 miles broad.

From Gonde Mount, at the north extremity of Cape Ilonge, the coast runs to the
W.N.W. for nearly a mile and a half, and then again to the E. by N. for G miles, as far as
Capo Vciit, forming a large bay, which con irehends within it two smaller ones, separated
from each other by u large cape railed h gle Cape. The first or southern bay is called
Pillar Pay, and is a good fishing place, but scarcely aflbrds security to the boats. The
second to the North, n.. .od Millions Bay, has net more shelter than the former, and is also
an excellent tishing-place. The coast of this bay is very high, and may be distinguished
from that to the south of it, because it is not wooded in the interior, as well as by being
barren near the sea. Millions Bay is on a line which joins the south point of Groais
Island, and the N.E. point of Belle Isle.

If the mountains on the coast should be covered with the fog on approaching the land.
Cape Vent or Cape Rouge may be easily found, according as it is from the north or south
that they arr sought.

Croc IIaiibour. — The entrance of this harbour is formed on the S. by Cape Vent,
which IS in lat. 51® 2' 25", and long. SS" 41' 32", and on the N. by Grouts Point. At

FROM CAl'K-^T. JOHN TO CAPE NORMAN.

, of which a
alhoms ; this
e wind is not
; Kongo, and
ather abroad,
tiie distance
around ; the
ithoms. On
Y/j'n, whicli is
'rom it.

18' and \on^.
'. to S.E. It
h above and
1. Tlie most
! Isle, named
t Ai>;uilletles.
d can receive
liaid aft into
(les the fust,
utii Uock will
s on tlie S.W.
nl ; tl)e de|)ih
lie Kock, and
Isle is G recti
GOO yards to
and the coast
^ land, but in
Tlie sound-
1 ; ai 7 miles
Voni the N.K.

8 is b\ miles

o 58 fathoms,

Tiiere is no

is even ; its

|iearly 7 miles

ts E., S., and

which extend

ys to the S.

ul they ought

a distance of

1, 3 miles off;

island and

shore. The

runs to the
liles, as fiir as
Ics, separated
may is called
boats. The
r, and is also
listinguished
as by being
lit of Groais

|ng the land,
Mh or south

Cape Vent,
Point. At

tiie foot of the cape there arc two black, rocky islets, whicij leave between ihcni a passage
for boils, when the sei is calm ; a ship can pass cjuile close to the outer one. The
entrance of Cioc Harbour is two-third-* of a mile wide; the 3. shore runs first \V. by N. and
then to the W. by S, forming the S.W, bay, which offers no slieller from N. or N.l'i. winds;
and conserpienlly is never used. A small ves-.el drawing 9 or 10 feet water, can, however,
run to the end of the bay, ami lie between the SA\ . islit and the fishiii'^' establishment
called Ptlil-JMiiltre, opposite the fishing-stage of this pi. ice, but it will be necessary to
moor fore and aft. A liltle within the S.W. bay, there is an uncovered rock on which the
sea always breaks ; it is known by the name of the Follr, although the fishers generally
call it the tyiudc Rock. In going to the S.W. it must be left to the sturboaid, and as
soon as n 's rasstd, bear towards a small bay called liicra dnv, to avoid a breaker which
lies in the .iirection of the islet; after this, steer between the islet and Pelit-Maitre. From
the entrance of the S.W. bay, the harbour runs N. by W. and at li mile divides into
two arms, one to the N. the other to the S.W. ; the first is called the Foml, and the other
F.pine-Cadorct . There is anchorage in any part of Croc Harbour, the depth not being
more than from 22, 19, 18, 16, 10, and 9 fathoms, though all parts of the bay arc not
equally good ; a vessel is well moored (N. and S.) when Cape \'eiit is shut in by Point
Genillc ; the tiepth then is 18 or 19 fathoms, and the Iwltom of hard mud of a slate
colour. There is also anchorage in V'pine-Cadoret, but it is not necessary l'> jtrnceed so
far into the bay. The winds which are strongest in Croc Harbour are those between S.W.
and N.W., which generally are in squalls. Nordi-easterly winds are also felt in bad
weather, but they nei-er cause a very heavy sea in the harbour. In Kpine-t^adoret, just
after passing l)y a narrow creek, which dries almost entirely at low water, there is a
convenient place on the rocks, for heaving a vessel down to careen ; the FrLiich ships of
war, Olivier and I'lulomele, were hove down here, and the rocks j)repared for the rigging
and a capstan. At the end of the arm, toward the W. there is a small river which runs
2 or 3 leagues into the country, and leads into a part of the forest where spais may be
procured.

('roc Harbour is the central point ff the French station, and i.< easy to enter and get out
of; wood and water are also readily procuied. A frigate can tatk into it, but great
attention must be paid 10 veer about in good time, as under the land the wind is uncertain,
and fre(|uo.itly takes ab.ick at the moment of tacking about, partieulaily when the wind
is from the N.W. and \n s(jualls. Cape Vent is not easily recognised by stnnc;ers, particu-
larly in making the land directly from the K. ; it lies N.W. ^ N. [ W. by N. J A'.] 9 miles
from the north point cf (Jroais Island.

In leaving Croc harbour to proceed to the nordi, after pa^^sing I'oint Grouts, two black
rocks are seen, cilled by the fishers the Itfivena. The land hence to Irish Island, runs
K. by N. \ N. no irly :5 miles; fro.n thence to the N. K. to the S.W. point of Sl.Julien
hlund, which e.\tciuls a inih' to the east. Irish or lUuck hlund is half a mile from that of
St. .Uilien : it is a barren rock, beaten by the sea, and very abni|)l. St. Jiilien Island to
the N. and 8 miles from the N.l'^. point of Groais, forms the enliance of the large harbour
of the same name : liiero are two shoals, one at the south point a little to tlie E., the other
on the N.W. side, but they do not extend above liOO yards from the land. All around and
close in-shore there is 12, 11, 2(>, and 83 fathoms. The passage between this island and
the continent should not be allempted.

St. Jur.iF.N IlAitnoi'R. — The harbour of Great St. Julien lies to the S.W. of the northern
part of St. .lulicn Island ; to enter it, pass to the N.E. of the island, aiul then steer so as
to keep one-third or half a mile off, until the channel which separates it from the coast is
seen ; then keep on the larboard shore to clear a shoal which extends from the western
shore over nearly a third of the breadth of the harbour. When at the rise of some very
low land between two mountains, or nearer the end of the harbour than the esablishments,
you can anchor in 7 or 3.^ fathoms, mooring fore and aft.

To enter l.iltlc St. Jnlicn Harbour, proceed as if for Great St. Julien to avoid a rocky
shoal which projects from (Irftntlcs Oics Island, and terminates in a tolerably large bank ;
thence as soon as abreast the entrance of (Jrandes Oies, steer for Liltle St. .lulien, and

anchor then m
fore and aft.

•li OTl]\ fathoms. Like the foregoing harbour, it is necessary to moor

The Harbour cf drandts Oies, shut in by die island of the same name, is not fit for the
leceptiou of ships, but is \ery convenient for lisiiing- boats. I'nun this harbour the coast
runs 1^ mile to the U. by N,, then fur the same distance to the N. by E. I E., and then

THE EASTEKN COAST AND WHITE IJAV,

f-l

W #:■

lo the N.N.W. for one mile, to Grandes Ilettes harbour. The route hither is quite clear, and
there is from 10 to 14 fathoms near the coast. Although open to S.E. winds, Grandes
Ilettes Harbour being situated at the foot of high mountains, the wind is seldom strong,
being checked by them ; vessels lie safely in it in 5 J fathoms water.

TuE Ilettes. — The Pelitcs Ilettes form a harbour, which lies E. \ S. from Grandes
Ilettes ; the entrance is exposed to the N.E., and can only receive vessels of a less draught
of water than 1 1 feet. The entrance is narrow, and vessels must moor fore and aft. At high
water, boats can find a passage to the W. communicating with Grandes Ilettes. Haifa
mile to the S. of l*etites Ilettes, and from thence bearing to the N.VV. by N. towards
Grandes Ilettes, there are several rocky islets and some shoals; and on account of this, a
vessel proceeding to Grandes Ilettes ought to leave to starboard all rocks and isles that
may be in sight. Those who go lo Petites Ilettes, if coming from the S. of Fishot Islands,
should steer so as to pass these islands at not less than half a mile off, in order to clear
the shoals of Monk's Island. The depth of 10 fathoms when to the S. of these islets, will
be a guide when to bear to the starboard, and which may be done at one or two cables'
length from the shoal, if it is judged expedient, steering N.N.E., in order to pass between
i'ishot Island and the shoal which separates into equal parts the channel formed by it,
and those of Petites Ilettes; then, when a little to tiie N. of E. from this shoal, which is
almost always visible, steer so as to pass to the N. of Madame Island, which should not
be kept too close, but so as to be east from the entrance of Peliles Ilettes Harbour, and
from thence proceed in to the middle of the passage. Some vessels also pass between the
shoals on Ilettes Iblund and that which divides the channel.

Le I'oi'u IIariiokr, — This harbour, which is lo the N. of that of Petites Ilettes, and
VV. by N. from Pisliot Harbour, is very convenient for large vessels that cannot enter
Vishot Harbour. For a vessel going to Le Four the route is the same as before described
for Petites Ilettes Harbour, only when the entrance of the last-named harbour bears
VV. \ N., a look-out must be kepi for liipissc Shunt, which lies precisely true E. from
the N. point of the etitrance of Le Four, and to tlie N.N.E. of that of Petites Ilettes.
Care must also be taken to avoid a shoul near tlie larboard point, a little to the S. on
entering. The passage to the nortli of UVpisse Shoal is most used ; the marks for keeping
\n the proper channel and avoiding all the dangers are, *' the islet in front of Fishof
harbour open a sail's breadth of Point (Jala on Froiny Isle." At the point northward of the
norlhern point of (he entrance of Le Four, there is a considerable reef of rocks; but it is
very near the shore, and extends to about midway between the two points. The anchorage
in Le Four harbour is to the left of the entrance, faither within than an islet which lies
III the middle of the arm extending to the S.W., and which forms the road.

FisiioT Isles are a group of islands, of which the largest is on the S. and is called Fishot^
and forms the harbour of lliis name ; the others are called Fromi/, SerpUUtre, and the
Norlh-Kust Island; they le.ive between them a passage for ships, and two smaller ones
for boats ; but these are not piacticabk' in all weathers, sometimes on account of the
will,], and at other times by reason of the wind and sea. In Fisliot harbour there are
several rocks; one near the establishment of Anse n t*Kau, called the Ruse, is very
dangerous ; another is situated near the middle of the harbour, and at a certain state of
the tide there is not sufficient water over it for a small boat. A vessel coming from the
S. to enter Fishot harbour, must proceed as we have described for the Ilettes and Le Four,
until it comes to the shoal in mid-channel to the VV. Thence, instead of bearing to the
larboard, continue along shore until abreast of Point Vide- liidon, and then steer E. by N.
\ N. to Hnd the passage, leaving the small islet to larboard. Proceed toward the cslab<
lishment on Fromy island to avoid the Ruse rock, then toward Cape Croix, and lastly
toward the islet in the harbour. To a vessel coming from the North, there is no danger,
and it can range along the Fishot Isles at a third of a mile off. Vessels drawing more
than II feet water should not make for Fishot harbour, but rather for Le Four harbour.
There is no wood, for firing or otherwise, on Fishot Islands.

To the N. of the island on the N.E. of Fishot island there arc several rocks and islands.
The nearest is called The Verdons, and the farthest the Cormoruiidicrs. The Great and
Little Verdon are clear, but to the VV. of N. from the larger island, and in mid-channel
between it and the Cormorandier, there is a rock which is rather dangerous. The Cornio-
randiers themselves are surrounded with shoals, atid there is a bank at a quarter of a mile
E. from the largr.st. Between the Cormorandiers and Le Four in the direction of VV. by
f>. i S. there are several shoals, and an uncovered rock, which is rather more to the west ;

FllOAi CAPE ST. JOHN TO CAPE NORMAN.

e clear, and
Is, Grandes
lorn strong,

m Grandes
ess draught
ift. At high
tes. Haifa
N. towards
nt of this, a
d isles that
hot Islands,
Icr to clear
e islets, will
two cables'
lass between
rmed by it,
al, which is
I should not
arbour, and
between the

Ilettes, and
cannot enter
ire described
irbour bears
rue E. from
ctites Ilettes.
to the S. on
I for keeping
nt of I'ishof
iward of the
ks; but it is
le anchorage
I which lies

ailed Fishott

tre, and the

mailer ones

ount of the

n- there are

St', is very

a in state of

g from the

d Le Four,

[aring to the

er E. by N.

the cstab-

and lastly

no danger,

wing moro

lur harbour.

\m\ islands.

Great and
kid-channel
he Cornio-
|r of a mile

of W. by
the west ;

but in all the eastern part between the bank of Great Cormorandier and the 8. of Fishot
Islands, there is no danger at a distance of a quarter of a mile from the shore.

II AHE Hay. — Fishot Isles on the south and Goose Cape on the north form the entrance of
Il.ire Hay, which extends to the west for t7 or 18 miles, and is about 6 miles broad. This
liirge bay contains several harbours, which are not frequented on account of their being
so deeply seated in the bay. The whole of the south side of this bay is bordered with
rocks, but these may be all avoided by keeping to the northof a line between Cormorandier
Island and Springs Island, and also thence to Brents Islands. The soundings between
Cormorandier and Springs Island are in 28, 30, 36, and 14 fathoms; between the last
and Brents Islands, 11, 17, 15, 12 fathoms, close on the shoals which are VV. j S. from
Springs Island. Thus the route to the anchorage in Southern Arm is as follows : from
Great Cormorandier run toward Springs Island, and it is better to pass to the N. of it,
although there is a channel of nearly a mile broad to the south of it, and in which there
is not less than \'l fathoms (but it should be passed in mid-channel) ; proceed thence
toward the middle of Hrents Island, or toward the North Island, according as the passage
IS to the N. or S. of Springs Island ; proceed thus till the western point of the entrance of
the Southern Arm is open ; it lies to the west of a small island, and then hear up : the
depth now will be 15 fathoms, and it is less than half a mile from Brents Islands. Continue
towards the last-named point, and the entrance to the Arm will be seen ; on entering it
the course is to the S.W. by VV. that is, in mid-channel; the depth will be 17, 19, 10,
12, and then 10 and II fathoms when arrived in the broadest part, where the anchorage is.
\'cssols can also anchor to the W. 2 N. of the most southerly of the Brents islands, in 4J
and it fathoms. The north side of the bay is quite clear and safe in its whole extent, and
tiiere is a much better harbour here called Uow't Harbour. Its entrance is precisely N.
(true) of the eastern side of Brents Islands, and N.W. ^ W, [IK. iy N.] 1 IJ miles from
Goose Capo. The hills around it are barren, but small stunted wood may be found in the
valleys. This harbour is two miles deep by two-thirds of a mile broad ; it is open to the
S.W. and turns to the N.N.W. by which it is shut in like a basin. The depth of water
is 10 fathoms. It is easy and safe of access, because on all the north side of Hare Bay
from Goose Cape to Hare Island, which is 4 miles to the west of this harbour, there is not
the smallest rock ; and there does not exist a single shoal north of the line which joins
nreiils Islands, Springs Island, and the Great Cormorandier. Between Brents Islands
and How Harbour, the soundings give 18, 22, 23, 24, and 15 fathoms at the entrance of
the harbour; between Springs Island and the north coast the depths are 18, 27, 34, 4.*),
40, :58, 34, and 35 fathoms ; between Cormorandier Island and Goose Cape, 27, 32, 31,
1!5 fathoms; and along the middle of the bay from its entrance to the end, passing to the
northward of Mrenls Islands, there is 31', 35, 39, 4G, 41, 25,27, 21, 17, 12 and 9 fathoms.
Spars and other timber can be procured in Hare Bay.

Goose Cape is one of the most remarkable points on the coast of Newfoundland ; it is
to be seen from a great distance, and projecting into the sea with a gentle declivity, it has
the appearance of a tongue of low land, which in certain positions seems like an island,
and separated from the land. It may be also remarked, that Hare Bay being deep and
the shores low. Goose Cape will appear entirely detached from the coast to the S., which
runs northerly. Its latitude is HI" 17' 20", long. 55*» 32' 32" ; it is 18 miles N.N.E.
[N. J W.] from the north point of Groais Island. A little to the N. of Goose Cape and
nearly over it, there are three very distinct mountains that are near the coast, and more in
the interior, to the N. of Hare Bay, the Capillaire AJountains, which are very high. The
.soundings to the E. of Goose Cape, at the distance of 9 to 12 miles, are about 83 fathoms ;
the bottom of fine grey sand, and the same depth is found before Crdmaillere Harbour.

Goes llAniioua is to the north, and under the cape of the same name, after doubling
it ; it is open to the W. by N. At its entrance is an islet, on which iron rings are fixed,
on which tow ropes may be affixed, by which vessels can haul into die harbour with con-
trary winds. The passage is to the N. of the islet, at a short distance to the N., as there is
a small covered rock near it. In the middle of the harbour is a rock called the Baleinc, or
If'halc, but it is never covered. V^essels must moor fore and aft in Goose Harbour.

Three Mountains. — The harbour of Three Mountains is to the VV. of Point Enrag^e
of (lOose Cape, and at the back of Notre Dame Island ; the entrance is on either side of
this island. If the south pas.sage is used, keep closer to the island than to the southern
side, because there is a rock to the E. of Cape Enragce at two cables' length from it ; the
tlepth in ntid-channcl is 20 fathoms, then 10, when off" the islet, which is about mid-way

ir^

H <

■h

' I ;t

I ■«

; !

1 li|!

t I;

; li

THE EASTEllN COAST AND WIIIIE IJAV

between Notre Dame Island and tlie land. If the norll em passage is usetl, it is .iIm) notcs-
sary to keep close to tlio island, because of a shoal wliicli is about half a niilo to tlio norlli-
ward ; afler wliicli run into the harbour, leavin;^, in preference, the islet on tlie slailiuaid.
Vessels, anchoring fore and aft, lie licre in ju'ifecl s;ifeiy.

CrimaiUcn: Ilarbonr is one of the linest. on the const of Newfoundland, and is an excel-
lent port for men-of-war to put into. It has excellent w.itcr and abundance of firo-wood.
Its entrance is about half a mile broad, formed, on the South, by (.'ape Uniit-ct-Hns, be-
neath which is a cave, washed by the sea, called Whale-IIole ; and on the North by a low,
rocky, sea-worn ])oint, called Anchor Point. In cominj^ from the South to ( 'rrmuilli re
Harbour, there is a shoal to the north of Notre Dame Island, which care must be taken to
avoid ; to do this, keep outside of a line jctininji; the larboard point of the entr.ince and the
N.K. point of the island, and when Anchor Point bears to the K. by N. run to the N. by E.
to clear a point on the left hand, from which runs a shoal for a cable's length from ii ; then
bear towards the end of the harbour, at an equal distance from either shore, and anchor in
12, 10, or 9 fathoms. In coming' from the East or the North, run alonij shore a cable's
length distant from Point Sauvages, a steep, rocky point, sea-worn, and on the starboard
side on entering (JrimailRre, running to the East from Anchor Point, and then steer N. by
W. to enter the anchorage. The bottom is good, and is better in front of the establishment
called Banc a I'Ouis than in any other j)nrt. Erom Anchor Point, and in a N. by E.
direction, there is a reef of rocks, on which there is but 10 or I i feet water ; thus it would not
be prudent to approach this point too nearly, in case the wind should fail. In tacking into
Cremailli:re Harbour, bear round as soon as 4.j fathoms arc attained ; and care ought to be
taken on account of the land-sciualls and flaws which are met with under (Jape llaut-et-
Has. IJetween Crcmaillcre and Fox C'a))e the coast is quite clear and safe. At the distance
of4i miles E. by N. \ N. from Point iMiragc'o is (Jape St. Anthony; and in the same
direction, li mile farther, is French Point, which is often mistakert for the Cape, although
it is to the East of it. This point is in lat. 51° 'J'/, and long. /.5" '^3' 42".

St. Am HON y. — Cape St. Anthony, with Fox Point, form the opening of Si. Man 1i<ii/,
in which, on the left-hand siile behind I'ox Point, is the entiance of St. Anthony Harbour.
St. ]\hin lidi/ is open to winds between S. and E. ; the depth of water iii it is Jfi, '3'>, .')4,
and 23 fathoms; it aflbrds no shelter, and tlic bottom is of coral. I'ox Point lies to the
N.W. by W. I W. of Cape St. Anthony, at the distance of one mile and two-thirds ; it is
very safe, and may be approached as well as either side of the harbour. V^■ssels may
anchor in any part, from the Horse's Hack to the end of the harbour; and also in ^Uirgarct
liny, whiih lies on the light-hand side of the harbour; the depth at the entrance is 'J 4
fathoms, abreast of the Horse's IJack 10 fathoms, and nearer the enti 8, 7, .'> and 4.^ fathoms,
good bottom. \'essels moor 1'^ and W. To anchor in INlargarct ISay, keep toward the
starboard point, because on the op| osite side the depth for about two-thirds across is not
more than /i to 1 1 feet. N.W. by W. from the most .southern point of the starboard side of
the entrance of St. Anthony, and t>fVihe lirst bay that is met with on the same side, tiiere are
some rocks beiieath the surface of the water ; tliey can be avoided, if the South point before
mentioned does not bear to the north of S.IC. by E. before passing to the \\'. of the afore-
said bay.

IJiir.iiATS, or BiiAiiA. — In proceeding N.E. by N. for three miles from FVench Point,
we atrive at the south point of lin/tats Bay. This bay is nearly a mile broad, and is
bounded on the north by a point of rocky islets, called the Eptes de Briltut. To the east-
ward of the south part of this point, and a mile and a half off, is Brefiat S/ioal, on which
there is but 12 feet water ; although it is of small extent, the sea, in bad weather, breaks
over it with great fury. It is die most dangerous shoal on all this coast, lletween it and
lirehat Hay there is a very good passage, the depth near the F'pces being 22 fathoms ; more
to the south 4G and ii? ; m-ar ihe shoal there is 17, 20, and 21 ; at 1 ,i mile to the east,
41 ; to the S.E. two or three miles, 34 and .')3, sandy bottom ; and I J mile to the north, 45
fathoms water, bottom of brown sand. There are fishing establishments, both in Oreat and
Little Hrehat, but ships anchor in (Iieat Ihchat; the entrance of it is narrow and diflicult,
and wiUi strong winds ai sea, the sea breaks in such a way that it is difficult to find out the
liarbour.

St. LunaiueBay. — From the Fpees de Rrehat to St. Lunaire IJay, the coast runs

the N.N.E. ^ E. ; at the south part of the entratice of the bay there are two islands,

called Gruuchain hiaiiils, which have between them a narrow, rocky jMssago, which is

sometimes used, it is suid, by boats ; the passage fur ships and other vessels is tu the north

rUOM CA1»K ST. JOHN TO CAPE NOUMAX.

.iIm) nocts-
I llio nortli-
! stuiliuaid.

is an excel-
■ firn-uood.
rt-Bas, be-
ll by ii low,
Cremuillire

be taken to
nee and tlic
ibe N. by K.
om it ; ilien
1(1 anclior in
»re a cable's
le starboard
1 steer N. by
slublisliniont

a N. by E.

it would not

tacking into
; oujilit to be
npe llaut-et-
l the dist;uice
in the same

pe,

aliliou'ili

/. Miin lini/,
jny Harbour.
i 3fi, 35, 34,
It lies to the
■thirds ; it is
V( ssels may
in Mdr^arct
ilraiice is 'Jl

4i fathoms,
1) toward the
licross is not
bdard side of
|idp, tliore are

jioint before
lof the afore-

[rcnch Point,
|roail, and is
To tlie east-
;/, on which
Liher, breaks
It ween it and
lioms ; more
Ito the east,
llie north, 45
In Great and
|ind vlinicult,
find out the

coast runs
Iwu islands,
to, whicli is
[to the north

of these islands, and is about one-third of a mile broad. When between the two points of
the entrance, there will be seen a-head ilaute-et-Vltile Island, Sutiit hhind, and the I'/nte
Islands ; the passages between them are not practicable but for schooners, being connected
by a chain of rocks ; on account of this, it is noccssury to kt.c|> ti> the North of them all. (Jn
the north side of the bay is Amelia Uurbour, in which, within liougo Islaml, then; is an
anchorage. This little bay is sheltered by some islands, of vhich the largest is called lli^li
hlaud. It is a safe and commodious roadstead, aiul wood and water can bo obtaino<l. To
the north of High Island there is a small sandy port, with some islets in front of it, but the
depth at the entrance is not above three fathon)s. To the west of the North-West bay llu«
two shores are elevated, and the passage fiee from all danger; the depth there is KJ, U, 7,
and 44 fathoms ; then, in appicaching tKaicr, the drptii (piickly ditiiinislHS, There is also
another small j)assr.ge to the Nurlii-W'est bay, at the b.ick of a huge, hi^li island, wiiii.li
forms its souiliern limit; it is called Huuli-Tcirc Island; but this passage is rocky, and
practicable only fi>r schooners, nelwten this i^l ind and the two islands at tin; oiitraiicc of
.St. Lunairo there is a large space, in which is fiund 1 I, IB, or 2(i f.iilioins, ami v('S'>els are
here secure from winds that come liom between the south and eist. in going into this, there is
a rock which must be avoided, and ovf>r which there is but 10 fi' -t water ; it isli>tlio W.N.W.
of the low point of liaute-cl-l'late Island, at 600 yards distaiKc, and .').'i() yards fioni the
east point of ilaute-Terre Ishuid, which forms the southern limit of the entrance to the
N.W. bay. There is another bay to the soulli-west ; its entrance is very nariow, and the
shores rocky ; the deplh of water in it is from 9, .'>, to ,'3^ fatiioms. If obliged to do so, the
passage to the south of the most northern of tiie IMate Islands can be tried by a vessel of
not greater draught than 8 or 9 feut ; but '^rcat care must be taken to k* ep tlie chaniiLl and
not touch, and lor this reason it should not be tried unless there is absolute necessity. St.
Lunaire bay ofilis very good anchorage to men of war,

\Viui r. C'apk and fiiuoi'KT HAimnr us. — From St. I.unaire Hay the coast runs N.K. \ N.
rather more than a mile, to White Cape; it is high, and has a remarkable whitish appear-
ance, and, with the most southern of the (iriguet Islands, forms the entrance of iriiitc Cape
llar/tour. The entrance is narrow, and to enter the aiichora.;e keep close to the (ape, and
then shut it in with the Soutii point of the island ; the (h;|)th is ;3.1 to 4j falhoins. The
(jriffuet hla'ids are four in number, including Camel Island, forming between ihem several
channels and small harbours, where ffshing- vessels can lie in security, 'i'hoy are entered
by leaving < .'amel Island on the staiboard, and the smallot of the CJriguets on the larboard
hand. There is also a passage between the centn' island and that on the North, but it is
difficult. Cinml Island, the most north and west of these islmds, is very high in its
centre, and ditlicult to distinguish from the continent, from wiiich it is only separated liy a
small channel, in w hich there is not always a passage even for the smallest boat ; this com-
municates witli the end of the Sonth-Uest bay, formed by tlie continent and the iiland.
There is anchorage in this bay, which is long and narrow, and has fiom 10 to 4i fathoms
depth in it. To enter it, keep well oil' Camel Island, then close in with the West point of the
islet in the middle of the entrance, and steer to the West till the Soutli-\\ est bay is seen,
and then take the middle of it. To enter the North-Wesl bay, steer toward the West point
of the North bay, leaving the islet on the right ; double the starboard point at a little dis-
tance oir, and then |)roceed to anchor in 15, IG, 10, and then 8 fathoms.

NouTH Hay. — To enter this bay, in rounding the point of the entrance, steer towards the
islet lying in the harbour, and pass on either side of it, proceetling toward the end, and
anchor in 7 or 5 fathoms. The bottom of this anchorage is not good, and winds from the
south and east (piarters cause a heavy sea. Slii|)s of war ought to ])i(;fcr the N.W. bay.
Storm Cape, wiiich is to the north of the North Hay of the Ciiguets, lies N.N.K. and
SS.W. liW.andS.I with Cape I'artridu^e, at the entrance of Kirpon, or (iuirp<on, distant
two miles. A little to the south of Storm Cape there is an islet, between which and the
land boats can pass ; near to Cape Partridge, also to the south of it, there is a second,
l.irgcr than the former, but equally clear. Il-tween these two islets the coast forms several
small coves ; there is also, near tlie land, and nearer (Jape Partridge than Storm Cape, a
shoal called the Mudcleine, on which the sea breaks in bad weather ; to avoid this, whether
coming from or going to the North, keep the highest part of Row-(ialley Htsid outside of
the islet on the S IC. of (,'ape Partridge. The soundinus on this route will be 'JO to 24
fathoms. The U/iitc Islands, to tlie K. ] N. of Storm Cape, are clear; the outer island
has some rocks on the S. and S.K., but they are close to it. To the W. by S. of the
largest, half a mile oil", there ate several rocks on a shelf which breaks and extends u mile
from N.W. to S.K. There is a passage between this reef and the White Islands, but it

THE EASTERN COAST AND WHITE DAV,

i i i;

„ '!

.' I -i.

!t;-

ought not to be tried, except under nccessiiv. To the West of the breakers the passage is
above a mile in width, and the depth is 40 fathoms. The White Islands are small and low,,
in lat. 51° 35' N. and long. 55® 15' 28" W.

Little KiRi'nN,or Quirpon, is thus called, because it is only separated from Great
Kirpon Harbour by a very narrow channel, in the middle of which there is a rock ; the tide
runs sometimes very strong in this channel. The entrance of Little Kirpun is formed by
Point Partridge and Point Grands-Gakts of Kirpon Island. To enter it, keep the middle
of the channel, to keep clear of the Whale shoal on the right hand, on which there is but
little water, and occupying one-third of the entrance ; as soon as this is passed, keep on
the starboard side, an(l steer toward Point Noble, and anchor in the centre of the harbour,
in 6 or 7 fallioms.

Deokat, or Row-Gallev IIi-ad, is the easternmost hill on Kirpon Island ; its extre-
mity forms the entrance of /)cgra< Harbour, before which are some islets and rocks, which
shelter the vessels anchoring here. It is only proper for small vessels.

FiGi:oN CovR is rather more to the north than Degrat Harbour, but it is unfit for the
anchorage of vessels. Cape Dauld, which is the north extremity of Kirpon Island, is in
lat. 51° 38' 15", and long. 65"» 20' 3.'i" W. ; it is steep and rocky, and may be approached
with safety. After passing the Cape, a point will be seen in the W.S.W. showing Kirpon
Harbour : along all the coast, and close to it, the depth is not less than 15 fathoms.

Kirpon or Quirpon Harbour. — The entrance of this harbour is formed by Kirpon
Island and Jacques Curlier Island ; it is the most northern harbour of Newfoundland ; to
arrive at this harbour, keep the Black Head of Kirpon Island clear of all the land until Point
Raven is hidden by Point Noddy ; then proceed toward the entrance of the harbour in the
direction of the islets, taking care to keen at least half a cable's length from Jacques Cartier
Point ; as soon as this is passed, proceed to the anchorage between this island and Green
Island; this is Jacques Cartier Road, and has good holding ground, with a depth of
7 fathoms. The passage within either side of Green Islatid is good for small vessels; the
depth is three fathoms, but beyond the island it is perfectly secure in 6 fathoms. Wood is
scarce in Kirpon, but can be readily procured in Ha-Ha or Pistolet IJays.

NoDDv Harbour is situated a little to the west of that of Kirpon and between Point
Noddy and Cape Raven : there is no danger in entering ; and a vessel ought to keep to
the larboard of the island, which is nearly a mile beyond the entrance, and anchor behind
it in 45 fathoms. The Gull Rock lies W. by N. } N. from Cape Bauld, and N. by K.
rather more than 2 miles from Cape Raven ; this rock is always uncovered. Maria Ledge
is N.N.E. I E. [N. I WA five-sixths of a mile from Cape Raven, and E. by N. J N.
[N.E. J £.] two-thirds of a mile from the starboard point of Maria Bay. It is nearly I J
mile N.E. [N. by E. \ E.] from the Gull Rock. This reef extends 1200 yards nearly,
from E. to W. and 600 yards from N. to S. ; between it and Gull Rock there is from '21
to 27 fathoms. In coming from the north, whether for Kirpon or Noddy Harbour, these
two dangers need not be feared, as they are always visible ; the passage between them is
half a league broad ; although safe, it is nevertheless, prudent to pass near the Gull Rock
on account of the liorth-West Ledge, which does not show but in bad weather; it is
situated West [S. ir. 6j/ W. \ JFJ] \\ mUe from Gull Rock, and is about 600 yards long
and 400 broad. A ship is outside its eastern extremity when the North points of the two
Sacred Islands are in one. But all dangers will be avoided by keeping liie South point of
the large, in one with the North point of the smaller island. Between Gull Island and the
North-west Ledge there is 14 and 18 fathoms. The passage between the continent and
the North-west Ledge, ought not to be tried when it can be avoided.

Sacred Islands. — Farther to the West are the Sacred Islands: the North point of the
largest lies N.W. by W. i W. [fFest] 5 miles from Cape Bauld, and E.S.K. [£. ^ 2V.]
12 miles from Cape Norman. Little Sacred Island is nearly one mile S.E. ^ E.
[E. bi/ S. \ 5.] from Great Sacred Island : the passage between them is very good, and
has a depth of 16 to 19 fathoms. These islands are clear, high, and steep. Within them
to the S.W. by W. is Sacred Bay, tolerably large, and containing a large number of islets
and rocks. The coasts are covered with wood, and it is frequented by the fishers. Cape
Onion forms the north point of Sacred Bay, and is high and sleep ; near it is a remarkable
rock, the Mewstone, called so from its resemblance to that rock at the entrance of l»ly-
mouth. To the south of the Mewstone is a small cove where a vessel can, on occasion,
find refuge. From Cape Onion to Burnt Cape, the direction is W. i N. [ W S.ir.] rather
above 4{ miles ; Burnt Cape appears of a whitish colour. On the eastern side of the Cape is

THF SOUTH-EASTEIIV COAST.

he passage is
nail and low,,

id from Greal
ock ; the tide
is formed by
ep the middle
h there is but
ised, keep on
f the harbour,

nd ; its cxtre-
rocks, which

IS unfit for tiio
1 Island, is in
be approached
lowing Kirpon
tlioms.

led by Kirpon
foundland ; to
nd until Point
harbour in the
acqucs Carticr
»nd and Green
ilh a depth of
ill vessels ; the
ms. Wood is

between Point

^ht to keep to

anchor behind

and N. by K.

Maria Ledge

1e. by N. i N.

It is nearly t J

yards nearly,

ere is from '21

larbour, these

llween them is

he Gull Hock

'eather ; it is

00 yards long

its of the two

jouth point of

island and the

[Continent and

111 point of the

k [£. i iV.]
le S.E. i E.
Iry good, and
Within them
iber of islets
Ishers. Cupe
la remarkable
(ance of Ply-
on occasion,
|.S./r.] rather
If the Cape is

lln-Ifa JJnv, which extends 2 niiles toward the South; it is exposed to northerly winds,
and can be anchored in when within the cape in 6 or fathoms. This bay, like Sacred
Bay, is furnished with wood.

Hay or PisTot.ET is situated between Hurnt Cape and the reefs of Cape Norrftnn; it is
4 miles deep by as miuh in brfadtli. The depth is noner.illy from 4^ to :i fallioins in the
part south of a line W.S.NV. and K.S.I'',, of the Wood Islaii.N, and from liJ to 8 at in
enirancf. The best aiichora.:e is at the western part, a little williin the islands, in 4}
fiitlioms. Norlii-wcst winds beat full into it. Ctipc Nortiidit ami Huriit Cape bear from
each other S.K. by S. and N.W. by N. [S.K. by E. \ K.] ai.,1 [A'./r. In, W. \ //'.]
4 miles apart. At the eiiliance of the bay, to the E.N.K. from apoiiii c.illed North h)int,
there is a reef which is not more than a mile from it; it lies also to the North of Ciorlelle
or Schooner Islnmi, formini; the western side of the entrance. To avoid this danger, keep
(ape Norinaii lo the soulii of W.N. W. till the eastern extremity of (Joeletle Island bears a
little lo the S.W. by S.

Ctipc Xornian. — This cape is, next to Kirpon Island, the most northern port of Ncw-
ibniKlland ; it is level land, inoilerately high and of a barren appearance. Ls latitude is
.')1° 37' li)", and longitude 5.')* 47' 4H". The coast of Newfoundland from this cape
trends to the West [.S.7/'. hj/ II'. h H .]

TiiF. SOIJTIIKRN COASTS of NEWrOUNDLAND.

I.— TuE S.E, COAST FROM Sr. JOHNS IIAlinOCFl to CAPE IIACE.

Having already described, on pases 15 and 19, the environs of St. John's Harbour, we
now resume the coast to the southward, commencing with Capo Spear.

From Cape Spear to the North point of Pet/;/ Harbour hmj, the course and distance are
S.W. 1\ miles; and thence to the South point, S.W. by S. y.\ miles. Pttty Uorboiir lies
two miles inward from the heads, and is a small cove, capable of containing only two or
three v< ssels. The settlement, a cluster of white houses, surrounds a small creek in a
narrow ravine between dark precipices.

From the South point of Petti/ Harbour liiw lo the hoy of Bulls, the course is S.W.,
and the distance eight miles. About midway between, is S/iutil Bai/, the coasts here being
composeil of lofty precipices of hard red sandstone. In this bay is a place called the
Spout, which is very remarkable in rough weatlier ; it is a cavern into whicii the sea runs;
and, having a vent on the top of the land, it spouts up the water to a great height, so that
it may be seen a great way off".

PAY of PULLS.— From the South head of the liai/ of Bulls to the North head,
called Hull Head, the hearing and distance are N.E. by E. 1| mile; between these
heads the bay runs in N.W. by W. for two miles, and then N.W. by N. to the river-heiad.
In this hay is tiood riding, in from '20 faihoms, at the first entrance between the heads,
to IH, lii,&c., after yon are within Bread and Cheese Point, which is about half way up
the bay, on the North side, where there is a cove. Ofl this point, nearly half a cable's
length, lies a sunken rock, which must be avoided ; every other part of the bay is bold-to
and free from danger. Peing past the point, run up and anchor (or turn up) against John
Clay^s Uill, bringing it to bear N.E. by N., and anchor in 1'2 or 14 fathoms of water;
merchantmen run farlhei in, and anchor in from 10 to 7 fathoms, and lie not above a
point open.

From the Bai/ of Bulls to Cape Broyle the course and distance are S.W. \ S. fourteen
miles.

WITLESS PAY lies about 1^ mile to the southward of the Bay of Bulls; it is in
some degree sheltered by Green lulund and (lull Island, which lie before it, but is not
safe fur ships. To the southward of Witless Hay Point is Momahle Bay, quite exposed
to sea-wiii(ls. About two miles ><>uthward from IMomahle Hay is Toad ('ovi, near which
lies Fox Island. About two miles to the southward of Fox Island is Bukine Head ;
between ilum lie Spear hit and (loose Island.

From Haleiiie Head to Cupe ?>tddkk the bearing and distance are S.W. by W . about
half a league; and, from Cape Neddick to Brigus Head, S.W. by S. 2J miles. lirigus
Harbour Vies to the northward of Brigus Head, and it is fit for small vessels only.

cAi'K nuovr.K to AQiJAforir.

. i it

;■ !■

.■;^-

CAPS BROYZiS, A.C.— Troin Ilrijjiis licit! lo I'npr Ih-nylt: U about twf» niilr^
Soiilli. Ciipr Htot//c lliiihoiir lies in about N.W'.hy \V, \ W. jiixmt iwo inilfH ; but it
is ( xposod to tlic sea wiiiils. Capo liroylt.' is thn inost icrnatkaljlc land on all tlio Soiilli
cctaxl (if NcwfoiiTidland ; it is a fino bold headland, 400 or 500 fiol liiKli ; coinin-^ tillior
from tlie scuilbward or iiortliward, it a|t|)oars like a saddle. The coa>«t to tin; soiitliward
Rradnally diininislirs ill lifii{lit, from (!a|iu Iboyle to Cipe Ilallard. S.K by K. from the
norllirrn point of Cipe hroylc, about half or three-(|uarters of a mile, lies u sunken r(»ck,
called Old Ihirri/, on vvliich is but IHfeet of water : the sea breaks upon it in bid
wcadier; but, between it and (he shore, there is \2 or 13 fathoms of water. In very bad
weather, the sea breaks home almnst to the shore from Old Uarrif, by reason of the
curienl, wliii h neneraljy sets strong to the soulhwanJ.

From Cape lirot/le llaid to Fcrn/liiud Point, the bearing and distance are S.S.W.
about 'i\ miles; between are lliri(; i>lan(!s, which lie before Capalin Ihnj, and ships may
'..i'l l)etween*ihein to that place: of these the nordiernmost is called Stone hlond ; the
middlemo><t, (loose hiami, which is the second in size ; and the southernmost, hk tin
liiiiH, whidi is ihe ^realist. There is room for ships to turn between these islands, ex<;ept-
ihg between Sione Island and (.'ape Hroyle, where there is a great rock.

('ai'F.i IN Ray is Iart;e and good, and runs in a considerable way within tlie islands
above mentioned, where a number of ships may ride in i,n)od ground, in from 10 to 20
fal horns of water.

I'rom the Norlli jiart of I'erryl.ind Head lo Ferryland, the bearing and distance arc
W.N.W. moie than a mile. It is a pidiiresrpic and |)leasant ])lace, and has several large
and [jood honsrs. To go into Fern/lmid Uaihour, yon must sail I elweoii the North part
of Ferryland Head and hh: <iu linis ; it is not wide, but there is water enough, and clean
croiind : when wiihin the Isle an Hois, you may inu in and aiuhor where you please, it
being of a good brtadth. The /'no/ is a jilace on tin.' larboard side sioing in, within a
point of beach, where you lie in 12 feet at low water. From Isle on lioh almost into the
land to the westward, are small islands and rocks, winch make Ferryland Harbour, and
divide it from Capelin Hay ; there is a pa>sage for boats between the said rocks in some
places, Spring-lidea rise from 3 to 1 feet.

AQUAFORT. — From the South point of Ferryland Head to Aquafort, the course
and distance are W. by N., about li miles. Crow Island lies about a mile K. by \. from
the mouth of A(juafort ; and from the S. K. end of ( 'row Island lies a shoal, about a cable's
length. A(/uaJ'ort Harbour lies in VV.N.VV. It is a long inlet, Ihe cliffs rising to a height
of 200 feet. On the North side there is a cascade over the cliff's, which gives the name to
this place. There is a great rock above water on the South side of the entranct , which is
hold-to ; you run up about 2 miles within the harbour's mouth, and anchor on the Noilh
side, quite land-locked.

From Aquafort Point to Black Head, the bearing and distance are S.E. one mile; from
lilack Head to Bald Head S. by VV., about a mile ; and thence, about a mile southward,
is the North point of Fermowe^.

FERINIOWRS is a very good harbour, and bold going in; no danger but the shore
itself; it lies in N.W. by N. and N.W. Meing past the entrance, there are several coves
on each side, in the harbour, where ships may ride. The first, on the North side going in,
is Clear^s Cove ; the next within it at a little distance, on the same side, is Admiral's Cove,
where you may lie land-locked from all winds, ii, 7 or H fathoms of water, good ground.
On the South side is yice Admir(d\ Cove, farther westerly, where several ships may lie ;
and f.irther westward, is another cove, equally good. There are 20 fiilhoms of water in the
entrance of the harbour, and within from 14 to 4 fathoms.

FI:RM0\VFS to CAPK RACF.— From Ff.i mowf.s to Rf.nowf.s, the bearing and
di.^lance are S.VV. by S., about l| league. Metween these places is a cove called Boar
Covr. Off' Ihe South point of Renowes Harbour, at u small distance from the shore, is an
island ; and, S.F. from the same point, about half a league, high above water, is Renowes
UocI;, which may be seen 3 leagues off. Uenoues is but a bad harbour, being full of rocks,
with shallow water. From Renowes lo Cape Bnltnrd, the course and distance are S.S.W.
J W. 2i leagues; between are Burnt Head, Freshwater Bay, and Small Point. From
Cape Kallard to Cape Race, the bearing and distance are S.W. by W. 2.^ leagues; between
which, and near Cape Ballard, is Chain Cove, with several rocks lying before it, but no
harbour; and about halfway is Clam Cove, which is fit for boats only. The land about
Cape Race is comparatively low, and bare of wood, with a steep cliff'of about 50 feet in height.

L'APK UACK lO IM.ACLN'MA MAY

out two milr<

inilPH ; I)ut if

1 all lli(! Soulli

coming eillicr

(lie M)iillivvanl

l)y K. frctm llio

a stinkcn rock,

upon it ill lik'l

In very bad

! reason of the

nee are S.S.U .
;inil ships may
ne hlfind ; tlie
nmost, hlc (III
ishinds, ex(;ept-

hin the islands
from 10 to 20

nl distance aro
as scv(!ral lar^e
the North part
)u;^h, and clean
f; you plca'*o, it
inrj in, within a
ainiost into the
I liarhuur, and
1 rocks in some

fort, the course
K. by N. from
about a cable's
jsinti to a hoi'^ht
es the name to
anct , which is
r on the North

me mile; from
pile southward,

but tlie shore
several coves
side going in,

Idmiral's Cove,
good ground.

[hips may lie;

|of water in (he

bearing and
called Beiir
lie shore, is an
cr, is lienowcs
f; full of rocks,
ce are S.S.W.
*oint. From
lues; between
pre it, but no
|e land about
feetinheigld.

U.— The rOAST or AVALON, i iiom ('AIM-, KA("K m- I'l.At "KNTI A ilAV,
iNd.uDiN*. TRKl'ASSKY, Si. MAIIV'S IJAY, am. IM.ACKNTIA IIAUHOIJH.

Fi'.oM Cape Race the land trends nway to the westward, nnd W. by S,, one mile and a
lialf: then W. \ N. one league, to Mtshiken I'niiit ; and fioin Mistaken I'oint Id Frciuh
MUliiktn I'aint, about N.W. by W. 2 miles, rion I'micli Misl.iktn I'oint lollie I'lnrltn,
It is ^'.^^ . tl miles.

The I'nwhs is the east point of the entrance into 'I'lenassey llirbour : from the Povvles
to Ciipe Miilt'in, it IS I'-.S.!*). .,' F-., "2 miles. Hclvveeii iIhx; points lies Mullon /{(/v, which
is about 2 iniU.s deep, with 12 to ;j f.ithoiiis of water, lorky bottom. Tl.'' N.W. part <»f
(he head of this bay is separated from Trepassey Harbour by a low, narrow, saiuly, stony
l>each, over wliii.li the vessels in the harbour may be s»'en.

I'rom Mi^lakrii I'oint to ('ajic I'iiic, the course and distance ate \V.N.\V. 41 leagues.

TilKI'ASSKY IIAUIIOIMI.— The entrance of Tnjxmtif lluihvur \n;s neatly :> miles
N. K. from Cape Pine; it is about three.()uaiters of a mile wide, and runs nearly of the
same breadth for <^.J miles, where it narrows to oiie-rpiarter of a mile, but again increases
to three-(|uarters of a mile, where the ships ride. The land slopes gently on all sides
towards the harbour, and is comparatively bare of wood. The dangers of sailing into this
harbour are, a small rock on tin; east shore, about a mile within the Powln ht'itd,\\w\ about
one-third of a cable's length fiom the shore; and, on the west shore in the harbour, oil a
stony beach, a shoal, which runs along shore up the harbour to a low green point, liolicr's
I'oint on with a low rocky point on the entrance of the harbour, will carry you clear of
this shoal. W hen you are neaily up with the low green point, you may steer more to the
westwaid, and anchor either in the N.W. or N.K. arm, in 't or fathoms.

From ('ape I'ine to Cn/ic I'rcrls, the course and distance are west IJ mile. The land
about (.'ape Pine is moderately lii'^h, and barren. From (ape Freels the land trends
about W.N.W. one mile, to illackluad, then N.W. J W. one mile, to the eastern reef and
head of .S'r Shot's lini/.

From the eastern head of .St. Shot's to the western head, the bearing is N. by W. | W.
distance 2 miles: St. Shot's Buy is about a mile deep, and entirely open to the sea.*

ST. BXARirfS BAY.— From the eastern head of St. Shot's »o Voint Lnnce, the
lM}aring and distance are N.W. J N. 20 miles. These points form the entrance of St.
Maiifs liiiji, which runs up 9 leagues to the K.N.F. with several good harbours in ii, the
liind on each side being moderately high. The current frequently sets with great force on
the eastern shore of the bay, which is the cause of many accidents here.

The land from Point Lance lies F. by N, 2,^ leagues, to a hii(h bluff rnpc, from which
the land along the west side of the bay trends F.N.Iv 7 leagues, up to the head of the bay.

From the afore-mentioned bluff cape to Cape English, on the east shore, the bearing and
distance are S.E. J S. 10 miles.

From the western head of St. Shot''s to GnU Island, the bearing and distance are
N. ^ J', lii miles; this island is small, and close to the main land.

From Gull Island to Cape Kncjlish, (he bearing and distance are N. by !•'.. ^ E. f> miles.
This cape is high table land, terminating in a low rocky point, forming a bay about a mile
deep, to the southward of it ; at the bottom of which is a low stony beach, within which is
llohjrood Pond, extending to the l-.NM''. about 8 leagues : being situated within the cape,
it makes Cape F.nglish appear like an island.

From Cnpe Evglish to VaLsc Cape, the course is N.E. \ N. one mile distant.

From Cape Krifflish to Point la Ilui/e, the bearing and distance arc N.F. by I''. 2,^
leagues. This is a low point, from which a ledge of rocks extends a quarter of a mile into
the sea, and above a mile along the shore, on wliich the sea breaks in bad weather. It is
the only danger in all St. Mary's Hay that will take a ship up.

ST. MARY'S IIARHOrR.— From Voint la llai/e io the south point of St. Man/'s
Hurhoiir, ciiWed Double Ihad Point, the course and distance are E.N.E. 1 .J mile; the
land between is low and barren. From Point la llaye to Ellis I'oint, which is the low

:f/

• On the rocks extending from the eastern siilc ol the bay, the Conuis, Ilarpooncr, and other
vessels were wrecked, as already shown on pages (> and 7.

.58

ST. AIAKY 5 HAY.

|i'{ il<

puint on die starhunrd siJv gniiii^ into St. Mury'$ llaibour, it it two milcii. The entruncc
<>r this li.irbuur in siliuvu li mile uide, iind beiirs from /'oi/</ /.arir« K. j S. '20 miles.
Wnliin the points ilial fmn) llio nitriuico, it diviiles into two branclieH, one to ll»' S.K., llic
other to tlio K.N IC. When yoii are within i-'.liit I'uinl, liatil in to the southward, and
anchor abreast of llie housei and st:i;{fs, upon a tl.il, in 4 or .5 f.ilhuins, wlwre you will lie
land-locked. This (I, it runs oil about halt n mile i'roin the above ; and witliout it is fioin
15 to 40 tailioms of wait r over to the oilier side : but tiie best anchoraue is about two inilefl
above till! town, where it is above half a iMdi; > ' , opposiie Hrcijvj'* /'<»»((/, which may be
seen over the low btath on the siaiboard ;".'< 'icre you wiU he land-locked in I'J fathoms
of water, and • xccjllent "ground all the way u, li I,; oi-ad of die l)ay. The K.N.K. arm
lies open to the sea, and is not resorted to by < ..ps.

Ilolyrood I'oiid, whic h once was an arm of the sea, i. now separated from it by a bank
of pebbles, 2 miles hmi,', having .i« times a narrow channel; but ilurinv; the autumn, the
current.'? which sweep up the bay aion^; this slioie, completely dost- up the entranre, which
is opened by the inhabitanis iii June: a lishcry is thus kept in it all ilie year round,

Mai. Hay lies to the wes'ward of the iiorth-ea.st point of St. Murys Harbour; it is
about ii mile widi', and ubuit two miles deep : but there U no good anchorage, a heavy
swell generally .selliui; into it ; hence the name.

Shoal lint/ I'diuf lies one mile distant from the east end of (jieal Cotiuel Islaiul.

Above St. Mary's llirbour lie firo i>,lanil*, the laiyest of which is about one lea.'ue Iouk',
and is called (tient Colintt hItinJ, the south end of which beats from Cape Knglhk
N.N.IC , distant ;i le.i^ues. On either side of this island is a >afe passage up the bay,
taking care t(» give Sfntal liui/ I'oiitl a bertit of a ipiartet of a mile, to avoid some rocks
which lie off that point. On the north side of 0'r»7/< Cutincl Ixlnnd is a stony beach, off
which lies a bank for about a cpiarter of a mile, on which is from 7 to 17 fathoms of water,
rocky bottom.

I.iUle Colhiei Island Vies two miles N.I'. by N. fiom Great Colinel hlund ; it is above
one mile long, and half a mile in breadth.

Gllj-.AT SALMON lUVKiV- The entrance into Hiu-at Saimon llivrn lies H. by N.
.'» miles from the norili part of l.ittic C'olinft Island ; it is about thiee-cpiarters of a mile
wide, and runs from the IvN.K. 7 or H miles. There is very good anchorage in it ; but
the lie.<!l i.s about three miles from the entrance on the noith side, in n sandy cove, in 5 or
6 fathoms of water.

IS'onTii II AiiDoi'H lies N.N.l'. three-cpiarters of a mile front the north part of Little
Citliiut Island ; it is about a mile wide at the entrance, and extends to the northward about
three miles: in it is very good anchoiage, in about 6 or 7 fathoms of wat<r, about two
miles wiihin the entrance, where it is not above half a mile wide; or you m;iy run f.irlhcr
tip, taking care to keep the starboard shore close on board, and anchor within the point of
the Narrows.

Coi.iMT Uay lies N.IO. by K. .')i miles from the north point of Little Colinet Island;
in it is very good anchorajje, in from 5 to 12 fathoms of water.

C'AI'K ST. MARY.— I'rom Point Lanck to Cai'E St. Mahy, the bcarinu' and
distance are N.N\. 7i miles; Cnpc St. Man/ is a pieity high Unfi' cape, and the land
along shore from it, for u constderuble distance, appears even, and nearly of ecpial height
with the cape itself.

I'loin Point Ltnicc W.N.W. .1 miles, lie the Hull and Cow Rocks; they are two flat
rocks, and very near together, with several small rocks around them, all above water, and
may be seen four leagues off, when open from the hind. They bear S.l'i. by S. fiom Cape
St. Mary, ."ii miles, and mie mile Irom the nearest part of the main land ; at about two-
thirds of the distaiice fiom ihem to the mam, is a small rock, which appears above water at
half tide; there are 10 fathoms of water between it and the main, and 15 fathoms between
it and the Dull mid Cow.

St. Mari/'s Kai/s or Rndcx lie W. by S. from Point Lance, W.S.NV. 1 W. from the Ball
and Cow, and S.W. by S. 7\ miles from Cape St. Marj/. These are two rocks that appear
just above water, and the sea always breaks very high upon them. They lie S S.K. and
N.N.W. from each other, about three cables' length ; and there are 15 fathoms at a small
cable's length all around them, excepting to the S.S.li., where there are but (i fathoms at
two cables' length, lielween them and Cape St. Mary is a depth of 20 and 30 fathoms.

he entrance
. 'io miles.
U" S.K., Ihc
liwaril, and
(III will lie

it IS fiom
lit two uiileH
licli may bo

I'J f.illioms
•"„N.K. arm

I Ity a bank

lUlUlltM, tllP

iiicr, wliicli
;)iiM(l.

'•hour ; it is
;e, n lioavy

land.

Ii-a^uo loiin',
apv ICiifi lish
ii|) llie bay,
some recks
f bead), oft'
ms of water,

; it is above

ies K. by N.

s of a mile

in it ; but

ve, in 5 or

irt of Little

iward about

about two

run f.irllicr

lllii.' pouit of

\itct Island;

noarini; and
Id tlie land
nuat lieiglit

Ire two flat

Iwater, and

fiorn Cape

U)()«t two-

|ve water at

^s between

|m tlio Jin/l
bat appear
8.K. and
lit a small
fathoms at
[alhomii.

IT.ACKNTIA IIAV.

PZiACBNTXA BAT.— From (ape St. Afary to Cane

Chtipfau Hou^r, tlie btarinn and distance arc N.W. 1) y
W. J W . l(jj leauuen. 'I'litse c.ipes fuiiii tlie entrance of
I'liiiinfhi liiitf. Cope Clin/ienii Hniifiv \^ llu; lii|{lic<«t and most
lenutikabl*' land on lliat p:ut of tlio coatl, appearing' above llie
reiil like the irowtiof a lial| and may '>•' seen in clear weather
12 lea>;iie» off*.

I'rom Ciipe St. Miiri/ to Point Ihrtno, (lie cunrie is N. by
K. \ K., dist.ince 8 miles; and tVom I'oiiit llrntw to the
Virijin Uock<i, N.l-'. [ I". \'i miles. These rocks lie about two
nubs from the main, and show above water.

rr(Mn the I'lufin Itiuks to l^oint I'trJe, or Green ]*oint, the
bearin;^' and distance arc N.K. by K. 5 I'', .^i niiles. There is
no slulter fur ships or vessels between (.'ape St. Mary and
I'oint N'crde ; the laud boiwecn is of a modcratr, and appcaiH
nearly of an npial, heinlit all the way; but over I'lueentia,
and to the northward of it, the land is very liij^h and uneven,
with many pe.ikcd bills.

I'LAt KNTIA IIAIUlOim. — /'oJn/ rente \s low and Icvtl,
an<l fiirnis the south side of the entrance of I'lneeulia limut .nu\
Harbiiur, which is situated on the east side of the great Kay of
I'laceutiH.

OiiFAi Pi.AcrNTfA was once a very considerable place,
bein}^ the rrentli capital, when they held possessions on the
island, and evin under the ICnglish was formerly much more
important than it is now. If you aic coming from the south-
w'aril, and t,'<)inu[ into the road, you should keep a lea'^ue fiom
the shore, to avoid the Ciihrullur Hack, which lies W . by N.
from I'oint N'erdc, till you briii^^ the lUiatle Hill open to the
northward of that i'oint. The Castle Ilill is on the north side
of the road on which stand the ruins of a fort, called the castle,
and is distinguishable fur out at sea. iiibralliir Itock has only
tt feet of water over it, at low water, spring-tides, and lies 'J|
miles from Point Verde. \\ hen you have the (,'a>tle llili on
with the I'oint, it will lead you a quarter of a mile to the
northward of it ; run in with the mark on, keeping your lead
uoing, as there arc regular soundings on both sides, and givin;,'
the I'oint a berth of near two cables' length, passing it in 4
fathoms of water, you may proceed to the anchorage under the
Castle II ill, at three cpiarters of the distance over from that
side, where you lie in G or 7 fathoms of water, good ground.
At the bottom of the road is a long beach, which terminates to
the north in a pmnt, on which stand the houses and a fort;
between which and the Cistlc llill is the entrance into J'laceutin
Hartiour ; this entrance is very narrow, with '.]\ fathoms of
water; but within the Narrows it widens to one-third of a mile,
with G or 7 fathoms of water, where ships may lie in perfect
security. In going in, keep nearest to the starboard side.
The inner harbour divides into two arms ; one called the Aurth-
East Ami, about 9 miles long, and nearly stiaight, with bold
cliffs and hills rising to the height of 400 or 50U feet ; and the
other '.he Soulh-FAist Arm, witii a very winding course of about
.*) miles. The South- l-'ast Arm nearly surrounds a steep rocky
piece of ground, which was once an island, but is now connected
with the main land on the south side of the harbour, blocking up
was the entrance of the South-East Arm.

I 5

by a Ions pebble beach,
what about GO years ago

niKKCTIOXS FOR PLACEN'TIA llAUnorit.

h C,i

Tin: FOLLOWING DiUl.CTlONS IIAVK HKEN GIVEN ON THi: ClIAKT Ol"
THE KOAU AND IIaRHOUII Ol' 1*LACENTIA, IIY Mil. I'\ OwEN.

"TiiK, Komi and Harbour of (ircal I'lacentia are on llie eabl side of the H;iy of IMacnttia.
The soulliern entrance of this road is Point Verde, which l)pars from Cape St. Mary N.K.
distance 2.0 miles; from the Outer Virgin rock N.I'', by K. J 1-., and fioin the south )«ide
of Red Ishmd S S.I'-, distance 14 miles.

" l*oinl Verde is a low level point, with a pebble beach on the east side, nearly half a
mile long, with several liNhing-staj^es just within the point. At the end of this licach is .i
hi^;h rocky cliff, that extends to the S.l',. corner of the bay, where it a^'ain lernnnates in a
pebble beach. This beach runs E.N.l'i. one mile, to the old foit, or soutli entrance of the
harbour: on the inside of this beach stands the town of Placentia, which faces the S.K.
arm of the harbour. A little to the southward uf the town is a high hill, with a remarkable
clilf on the middle of the be.ich.

" The outer point on the north side is level, with a clay clifFon the outer part. It bears
from Point \'erde N.K. by N. nearly, distant one mile and a half: from this point the
land forms a small bay, with a stony beach round it, to the corner of the difl" under Sii^nal
Ihll, which is the first hdl on the north side of the road from this |)()iiit. Tiie clitf continues
to l'resliw;iler Hay, which is formed in a small valley between Siunal Hill on the west, and
Castle Hill on the cast, with a pebble beach round it. A small rivulet runs down this
valley, where ships can water. On the east side of this bay is Castle IIill, with an old
fortification on its top ; within this hill is a nairow beach, wliicli furuis the north entrance
into the harbour. At low water, the entrance of the harbour is not more than tJO fathoms
across, and the tide into it runs more than four knots an hour.

" The only dangers near IMacontia are, the Virgin Rocks and (Jibraltar Rocks, on the
south, and Moll Rock on the north. The outer Virgin Rock bears from I'oint X'erdeS.W.
by W. \ W. distant 5\ miles, and fiom Point Hreme N.li. ] K. distrtut 12 miles. These
rocks are all above water, with 10 and 12 fathoms round them. The (Jibraltar Rock
bears from Point Verde, west rather southerly, distant 2.^ miles, and is near two miles from
the shore.

"The Moll Rock bears fiom Point Verde N. by K. i K. distant two miles, and from
Moll Point nearly S.W. throe-quarters of a mile. There aie only !2 feet of water on this
rock, with 10 fathoms around it.

"The land from Cape St. Mary to Placentia is of modeiatc height, and nearly even ;
but, to the northward of it, the land is high and uneven, with severa! peaked hills.

'* When bound to Placentia, after you have passed Cape St. Mary, the course from
Point Preme to the Outer N'irgin Rock is N.K. \ K. distant 12 miles; and thence to Point
Verde N.I'-, by K. \ K. 5i or (i miles. Pefore you gtt the length of the X'irgins, if the
weather be cle.ir, you will see Point Verde, a long low point under the; higli land of Signal
l!ill and Castle Hill. The latter is remaikabie by its having an old fortificittion on its
summit, which may be seen a great way off at sea.

•' When you have gotten the h ngdi of the X'irgin Rocks, you must steer to the north-
ward, till you bring the old fort on Castle Hill on, or ooen to the northward of, Point
\'erde. It bears from Point X'erde E. i N. This mark will bring you to the noithward
of the Gibraltar Rock ; yoi' may then steer for the road, taking care not to come nearer
Point Verde than two cables' lenulh, as a H.it runs off to the northward, with onlv 12 and
l.'i feet of water on it. The soundings of the ro.id are regular ; from to .'J fathoms, sandy
bottom ; but the ileepcst water is on the north side, as there are 6 and (> fathoms close to
the rocks. On the south side the wat( r is slioiil, as there are not more than 12 feet, at \(.H)
fathoms from the shore. The best anchorage for ships of a large draught of water, is abieast
of Kreshwater Pay, at about one (juarter of the dist.ince from the north shore; where you
will have 6 or 5.^ fithoms, with sandy bottom. Point Verde will then bear NV. ] N., and
the outer point of Signal Hill N.W. i| N. The whole bay has a sandy bottom, and good
holding ground.

" The tide rises 7 or 8 feel ; it is felt but little in the road, but runs I or !> knots in and
out of the harbour, Here it flows on the full and change days of the moon, at 1> h. l.i in.
in the morning. The variation of the coni|)ass in the road, by observation on the 22d of
August, 1800, w;>s 22<^ -lU' W ." It is now about 2J".

PLACFA'TIA RAY AND ITS IIAIinOl^RS.

A' IMarcMlia.

Mary N.K..

south i<i«lt'

parly half n
s luach is a
liiiates in a
raiicp of lh(!
;cs the S.l'",.
X remarkalilf

irt. It bears
lis |ioiiil ttin
miller Sii^nal
•lilf continues
the west, and
IIS down this
with an old
orlh entrance
II GO falhoMis

locks, on the
itWrdeS.W.
miles. Tiiese
iiliraltar llock
wo miles from

les, and from
water on this

ncarlv even ;
lulls.'

course from
licncc to I'niiil
irs^ins, if the
|aiid of Signal
ic.ition on its

to the north-

f-ard of, I'oint

he iioilhward

I) come nearer

li only I'J and

Itlioms, sanily

lioms close to

2 fott, at 100

]iter, IS ahicast

; where you

l\V. :] N., and

]im, and ;.;ood

knots ill and

lit 1» li. l."* in.

)n the 'iad of

MAGNF.TrC Rk.MUNGS AND DISTANCES OF PlACF.S ON TMF EasT SidF

»)F Pi.acfntia Bay, as takfn in 1800.

Milen.

From Cape St. Mary to I'oiiit Iki nio N. W"]']. or \. hy K. j K, • • M

the south side of Red Island N. 'li K. or N.N.K. 34

From Toint Hieme to the Viruin Rocks N. 4M K. or N.K. .[ Iv ■•••.. 12

the south side of Red Island N. M K. or N. hy B. \ K. •• W

rroin tiie Virgin Rocks to I'oint \'erde N. (U K. or N.K. by !•',. J !•',.•• !i\

Point Latina N. 46 K. or N.K. 12

the south side of Ucd Island N. I !•'. or North 16

Vrom I'oint \erde to Point Latina N. 29 K. or N.N.K. .J K. • • • ■ 6

the south side of Red Island N. 21 W.or N.N.W. 1 i.

From Point Laiina to the south side of Uid Island N. 4.'} W.or N.W. j N. 11

III. -Tun NORTIJKRN PoinioN or Tiir. BAY or PLACKNTIA, and Coast thence

TO CAPK CIIAPKAII ROIJGK.

Pditit I.fitinit lies about .') miles to the northward of Placentia Road ; between whit h aro
several sunkrn rocks lyini; alonj^ the slmre, about half a mile ofl'. A larj^e mile to the
eastward of Point Latina lies Paint Hoc/ic, off which a shoal stretches nearly one-third of
a mile.

From Point Rorhe 1 ', mile S. by K. { E., is the entrance of I.itti.f. Placfntia llxit-
noru, whiih extends \N . by S. above \\ mile, and is near half a mile broad. I.ill/e Pla-
centia, as well as (ireat Placentia, stands on what was once an island, beinc; connected to
the main by a beach of lari;e pebble-;. It is a stra;4nlin^ place, on tl..'^ low side of an inlet,
with bold r()( ky hills on the oi>posite side. Here is gooil anchorace in a cove on the north
f-hore, whi(;h may be known by the west poii;t beini,' woody; ofl' the east point of the cove
lies a shoal nearly one-third (»f the distance across ; in the cove are 7 or B fathoms of water.

I'rom Point Latin i to Suit' HAUiiofr. the course is K. b\ miles : this harbour extends
N.N.K. 2] miles, and is a rpiarter of a mile wide. The anchorage is in a cove on the west
side, in lo fathoms, about a mile from the eiitrarire.

Fox Island is small and rnund, and lit* N.I-. J N. .3 miles from Poini Latina, and
N.W. by \V. a league from Ship llar/iuur Point, which is a low stony point, lyiiij; about
l.J mile to the westward of Ship Harbour. Fox Island and this point are connected by a
range of rocks, which sometimes break (juite across.

N.N.W. l.J mile from Fox Island is a stee|i rock above water, called Vinhinir liorl; ;
and N.N.K. IJ mile from Fishing Rock lies a sunken rock, which almost always breaks.

Rl'il) ISL.XNI) is high barren land, about 4 miles long, and 2\ miles iiroad, composed
of red uranite. The S.V.. point bears N.N.W. 11 miles from Placentia Road : and nearly
east 12 leagues from Mortier Head, which is on the west side of the bay.

The RAM LSLANDS are a cluster of high islamis lying N.K. .J K. of Fox Island,
about 21 miles. Ivist 3 miles from the south |ioint of |{am Islands is the entrance into
Luii^ Unihour ; there is no danger ii uoing in; the best ancliornu;e is on the north >ide,
to tlie eastward of Harhimr liilanil, between it and the mam, where you will lie secure
from dl wiii(N, in 7 or S fathoms of water.

From Ram Islands to Lrni i. llAimot'n it is N.N.K. \ E. about .'» lea'j;ues ; there are
several h'w iNlamU and rocks aloiitj shore between these places ; but not the least shelter,
even for boats, along the coast. Little Harbour has bad ground, and lies quite exposed to
S.U . winds.

I.()N(i ISLAND. — From Point Latina to the south point of Long Island, the course
is N. 4 K. 4 leagues; this island is 8 miles long, high land, the .south point being of
remarkably steep rocks. On the east side of it, about a league from the south point, lies
Harbour liitff'tt, which is tolerably good ; the entrance to it is narrow, but his \:\ fathoms
of water in it. This h.irbour has two arms, one exiendiog westward, llie other northwani ;
the best anchorai,'e is in the north arm, in 1.') fathoms of water. This hail-.our may be
known by the islands which lie in its mouth, and to the xtiilhward of it, and by Harbour
Huifet Island, which lies K. \ H. one mile from the entrance. To sail into it you must pass
lo the nurthwaid of all these islands.

r)6

PLACKN'TIA UAV AND ITS FI A IIIIOUILS.

About 4 miles from tlie south point of Lent? Island, on the west sido, lies Mussel liar.
hour, the entrance to which is between Lon^ Island and Hairen Island, and opposite the
north end of the latter ; the depth is from 10 to 22 fathoms, rocky bottom.

SOl'TII H Minor RS.— /.//</«■ South Harbour lies one mile to the westward of Little
Har/tour ; and it has several rocky islands before its mouth, which, in going in, must be
left on your starboani sidt', exceptinj» one, on either side of which is a safo |)ass;ij;e of 15
fathoms of uater. On the east shore, within the islands, is a sunken rock, about a cable's
lenf,'th from the shore, which generally breaks. Nearly opposite on the west shore, are
some rocks, ab(»ut half a cable's Icn^^th from the shore, that show jM one-third ebb. This
harbo\ir is about 1 • mile long, near half a mile wide, with 7 fathoms, good bottom.

Great South Harhour is about a mile to the northward of Little South Harbour : there
is no (hingcr in sailing into it, and near the head is very good anchorage in or 7 fathoms
of water.

One mile to the westward of Great South Harbour is Isle an Bonleuus ; a high round
island near the main.

COMl'MJY-CIIANCK.— The entrance into Comclni-Chuncr Harbour lies N.N.R. 4
miles from the Isle au Mordoaux ; it extends N.K. by 1',. 3 miles, and has from 'JO to ;;
fathoms of water, sandy bottom, but is (|uite exposed. Tlic head of the liaibour is about
;{ miles fioni the Hay of Hulls in Trinity May, the isthmus here connecting the peninsula of
Avalon to tl;e main portion of Newfoundland.

Noinii Haiuiouh is N.N.W. 2 miles from Come-by-Chance ; and S.E. by S. 2i miles
fiom Viper's Hole ; about 2 miles from the entrance is good anchorage in 7 fathoms of
water, and no danger in sailing in.

I'nwi Filler's Hole to liarren Island the distance in a S.W. direction, is nearly 3
leagues ; between is a series of islands, about half a mile from the west shore, ha.'ing from
4 to 17 fathoms of water within, good anchorage all the way.

Ihuren Island is about \i\ miles long, and one mile bro.nd ; it lies about half a mile
from the main, and more than a leagi.e from the north enil ot Mcrashecn Island.

Sanoy IIaiihoimis.— Nearly four miles W. J S. from the south end of liarren Island is
(treat Sandy Ilart'citr, the entrance to which is narrow, but within there are 6 or 7 fathoms
of water.

Little Sandi/ Jlarbour lies a quarter of a mile to the southward of Great Sandy Harbour,
and is tolerably good, having G or 7 fathoms of water, good bottom. In going m, you pass
to the noithwartl of a low rock above water, which lies in the mouth of it. This harbour
may be known by Bill /.s/t', which iies S.ls. \ V.. \\ mile from the inoulh of it ; and N.IC.
i N. 13 miles from the west jioint of Merashecn Island: off the south point of the island,
is a remarkable rock, resembiin;.' a bell with the bottom upward.

Neaily ' leagues S.NV. from Bell Isle, is the noith end of Great I'alen Island, which is
about 2 miles in length. Ori tiu main, to the westward of it, is Clatisr. Harbour, the
eniiance into which is l-.alf a mile wide ; in it aic 40 or 50 fathoms of water. The best
anchorage is in the west cove, which is one mile long, but not a quarter of a mile wide, in
from 17 to 'iO fithoms of water, good bottom.

Griindmere^a Roekn are just above water, ?nd 1^ mile northeastward from the north end
of Great f'alon Island.

The lAi'ilf VaUn hlnnd lies near the south end of (Jroal V^alon Island, and about a
quaiter of a mile from tlw main; it is high and round.

W.S.W. J W. 3i miles from Little Valcn Island Wes Presque, within which there is very
deep water, but no safe ])assage ; there being a number of rocks lying uefoie the intiance.

Ml'.KASIIKEN ISLAM).— K.S.K. 4 nuhs lioni iVovyHP, and S. j W. from Little
I'alen Island, li(s the west point of Mf.rasiif.in Island: lliis island is high, ;nul trends

h.in u le.ii'ues : it is very narrow, the broadest viwi not

to the N.E. by K. mo

iiioie than two miles. At the south pait of the island, near to its west end, is a very good
lr.ubi(ur, but small, with from G to 10 fathoms water. To go iiilo i(, kei j< 'he stai board
shore on board, in order to avoid a sunken rock, that lies a cable's length oil' a rugged
rocky point on the larboard side when going in.

Indian Harbour lies on ihc cast side of Mcrashecn Itlund, at about 3 leagues from the
south point.

PLACENTIA HAY AND 11 S MARUOUIIS.

.^7

t/ixel Uar.
posite the

1 of JAttle
n, must be
t;r^e of 15
J I A cable's
shore, are
ebb. This
[om,

)our : there
r 7 fathoms

hi;*!! round

i N.N.E. 4
i:i> 'JO to [\
our is about
peninsula of

S. 2i miles
r fathoms of

is nearly 3
leaving fiom

I half a mile

\nd.

'ren Island is

or 7 fathoms

idi/ Harbour,
111, you pass
'his harbour

lit; antl N.K.

lof the islam!,

Lii(/, which is
\llurh<mr, the
Ir. Tlu; best
liiule wide, in

he north end

and about a

I there is very
Ithe intiancf.

from h'lille

ii, ;iikI troiids

\\ not bt'ing

a very good

lu stai l)OHrd

|.i! a rugged

lies from the

S.W. \ W. two miles from Presque is a sunken rock : a quarter of a mile without this
rock is a rock above water, called the lilack Hock, vvliicli lies Kast two miles from
IMarticot Island.

The harbour of LiTxr.r. Paradise lies one mile to the northward of the east point of
Marticot Island ; the only safe anchorage is in a cove, at the head, on the larboard side.
Oiu; nule to the eastward of Little I'aradise lies La Percfie, in which there is no safe
anchorage. Tlio harbour of Giuat Pauauisl lies to the westward of Little I'aradise, and
is fit for boats only.

From Marticot Island to Corbin Head, the course is \\ .S.W. ] \V., U .' leagues:
•his course v ill lead just without the rock called the Saddle liar!;, which is 9\ miles from
Marticot island. Between Marticot and the main is an islet called For Island : between
these islands is a safe passage, with not less than 9 fathoms of water ; but none between
I'ox Island and the main.

I'AI{.\!)iSE SOUND.— To the westward of Fox Island is the entrance of Paradise
Sound, which extends N.K. by E. 4,J leagues, and is about a mile broad, with very deep
water, and no safe anchorage till you get near the head of it.

One mile to the westward of Paradise Sound lies' Petit Fort Harbour .- a very good
haibour, having in it from 14 to 7 fathoms of water, good bottom. The entrance is
more than a <|uarter of a mile wide, and lies N.E. 5 miles from the south point of Long
Island, and N. by K. 2i miles from the north point of the same. There is iio danger in
going in ; and the best anchorage is on the starboard or eastern side. S.E. winds heave
in a great swell on the western shore when it blows hard.

Cape Uoceu IlAiutoim lies clojc to the westward of Cape Roger, which is a high
round barren head, lying N. \ K. MJ miles from the south point of Lcng Island. There
arc several low rocks and islands lying ofl" the eastern point of the entrance in the
harbour, ut a quarter of a mile within, on the western side, lies a ;<,uall island ; to the
northward of which, between it and the main, is very good anchorage in 7 or 8 fathoms
of water, or farther up in G or 7 fallioms.

N.N.W. 'J miles from the south point of I>ong Island, lies a small (Hrei'n Island, which
has a shoal all round lu nearly a cable's length. I'roiii tiroen Island N.N.W. '2K miles,
lies (irc'it (iolhnus Hnrbitur Jslanil, which is a high land. \'essels may pass on either
side of this island into (ireat (lallf)w* Harbour, which lies one mile to the K.N.K. of the
island. In this harbour is exceedingly good anchorage, in 7 fathoms of water, on the
starboard side, just widiin a low stony point, taking cate to give the point a small berth,
in order to avoid a rock which is alternately covered and uncovered with ihe tide.

Ai'DiEiiNE Island lies half a mile to the northward of Cape judas or APiddle Island,
on the west side of which 'here is a tolerably good harbour. At about a cable's length
from Andierne Island, to the southward of the haibour is a sunken rock ; the mark for
avoiding wliich, in coming in from the southward is, not to haul in for the harbour till
you open a remarkable green point on the southern side of the harbour. The best an-
chorage is on the north shore, just within a small island. A spit of rocks stretches just
off th"^ Green Point on the south shore, which are covered at high water.

\'es.'?els bound for Audicrne Haibour may pass between Cape Judas or Middle Island
an<l Andierne Island ; and between Crow and Patrick's Island, which are two small
islands lying off the S.W. point of Andierne Island. Off the N.K. jioinl of Audieine
is Ford's hlanil, on the west of which is a sunken rock, about a cable's length from the
island, and anolher on the eastern side, which almost always breaks.

The Saddle Hack is an islet lying E.N.E. i K. ft leagues from Coibin Head ; E. by N.
from Morlier West Point, and I',.1S.I''. J I',. ;j leagues from John the Htiy l\)int. Hetween
it and the main are a gieat number of rocks and islets, which render this part of tin?
coast very dangerous. A cliain of rocks extend N.E. by E. one mile and a half from the
Saddle liack.

Cai'I: .luDAS or Minni.K Island is about 2.^ miles in length, and 2 in breadth, and
lies 1 .J mile norl'" of the Saddle Hack ; on the south end of it >s a round hill, whuli is
called the Capo. Helwcen this island and the main aie a cluster of isliiids and low rocks,
with a great number of sunken rocks about them, called the Flat Itlanda, \i\c innermost
of which lies about one mile from the main.

Two miles to (he N.N.W. of .lohn-lhe-ilay Point lies John-th.-lintf, \n vthiuh there is
tolerably good anchorage, with about 8 fathoms of water, sandy bottom.

•M

.IB

PLACKNTIA »AV AND ITS IIAUIJOUUS.

t«

From Joliii ihe Hay Point to Mortier FaisI Head the bearing and distance arc
S.W. \ W. H inik's. Twojmilcs S.W. by W. from Jolin-tlic-Hay I'oint lies Kock Harbour,
not fit for sliip|iiiig. IJotwccn lie two sunken rock-*, nearly lialf a mile from the shore.

MOilTlKIl MAY.— Two miles W.S.W. from Hock Harbour is the entrance info
Moriier Hay : at the entrance of which, on the west side, is a small harbour, called
lifuuljoit, of only 9 feet of water. The course into Mortier Bay is N.N.K. for about two
miles, and in it there are from .^0 to 70 fathoms of water, the land on each side being
liigh ; it then extends westward about two miles, and nearly two miles wide. On the
eastern side, at about three miles from the entrance, is an exceedini;ly good liarbour,
called Spanish Room, in which vessels may anchor in from 4 to G fathoms of water, good
ground, and secure in all winds. There is not the least danger in going into this harbour,
giving the low rocks above water, at the entrance, on the larboard hand, a berth of one
cable's length.

About a mile westward of Moriier F-ast Head is Litti.k MouriEn Hay, at the entrance
of which is a round island, called Mortier Island, lying one-third of the distance from
the west side; it is bold-lo all round, and may be passed on either side, t'luso to the
tirst |)oint beyond the island, on the larboard side, going in, is another little island,
close under the land ; and two cables' length from it, in a direct line toward the outer
island, is a sunken rock, on which the sea breaks in bad weather, which is the only
danger in the bay. At the bottom of it, i^ mile from Mortier Island, on the east side, is
a cove, called luix Cove, where there is good anchorage, and room for one ship to moor
in 9 fathoms, good ho''!ing-gro\ind, two points open to the sea, from S.S.F-. to S.l',. On
the west side of the buy is the harbour, which is small and narrow; but a very good one
for small ships, where tlioy lie moored to the shoiv. Off the slarboa-'d point, going in, is
a rock, which is always covered at high water.

About 3 miles S.W. from the entrance of Little Mortier Hay is Iron Island ; and S.Fi.
by K. [} miles fiom Iron Island, and S.W. \ W . 5 leagues frOti Cape Judas, lies the
Mortier Hunk, the shoal part of which is about one league over, and on which there are
only four fathoms. The sea breaks heavily on it in blowing weather.

Iron Island is a small high land ; and S.W. \ W. one league from it is the S.K. point
of Cheat liuriii- Island ; and W.N.W. 1 J mile from it is the north [lart of Pardj/'s Island.
On the main, within these isl iiids, lie the harbours of Great and Little Burin. Vessels
bound for Hurin may pass on either sirle of Iron Island ; the only <ianger in passing to
ihe northward is the ledge called the lirandi/s, which aln\ost always break ; they lie
near a (piarter of a mile to the southward of a low rock, above water ; clo.se under the
land of Mortier West Head. My keejjing .Mortitir West Head open to the westward of
lion Island, you will avoid Or^fijory's Kock, on wiiuh is only 2 fathoms of water, and
which almoi't always breaks. Vessels may pass w h safely between this rock and Iron
Island, by giving the latter a berth of above a cable's length.

On the mail), within I'ardy's Island, are two remarkable white marks in tlie rocks ;
the northernmost ol the.se brought on wii Mie North part of I'ardy's island and lion
Island N.H. J N. will lead on the Galloping . -drcvs, n siioal with 5 fathoms of water on it.

The White Uortc is a shoal with 8 fathoms of water on it, which bears^.S.F. one mile
from Iron Island.

The Dodding Hock lies about a ({uarter of a mile from the easternmost part of (treat
liurm Is..ind.

(Jreat Hurin Island is about 24 miles in length N.N.K. and S.S.W. ; and near its South
end is Cat island, higli and round, lying E.N.F. .3.J miles from C'orbin Head.

From Corhin Head to .Shallowatf Point, the bearing and distance are N.K. i N. J J miles.
Hetween them, and nearlj in the "same direction, li*- Cmbm and Little lUuiii Islands, both
lii;4h and round, ami not more than a cable's length from the shore.

Shnlhwai/ Island lies N.N.W . ^ W. one mile from Cat Island, and N.Ii. by E. a quarter
of a mile from Little Hurin Island ; the passage into liuniN Haiuioi'Iis, from the south-
ward, is to the westward of Shalloway Island.

In sniliiiK in, take care to give Poor Inland a herlh on your larboard hand ; and, when
witliin Shalloway Island, yo>i may anchor in safely between it and (Jreat Hnrin Island,
in from 12 to IH fitlioiiis. The best anehiraj^e in Oreat Hurin Harbour is in .S/»(/) Cove.
Tlie course up t(» it, aftei you are within Xetk Point, whith is to the westward of tin

IM.ACLNTIA IJ.W AM) US II A IIHOV KS.

.')!»

tantc arc
liiirbour,
shore.

•iince into
mr, railed
about two
side being
'. On the
1 harbour,
vatcr, good
is harbour,
rtli of one

10 entrance
tanco from
luse to the
itlle island,
1 the outer
s the only
3ast side, is
lip to moor
S.K. On
y good one
going in, is

[ ; and S.K.
las, lies the
ch there are

t S.K. point

■(li/'s Island.

Vessels

passing to

; they lie

under the

eslward of

water, ami

and Iron

tho rocks ;

and lion

wilier on it.

(iiio niilc

irt of (Jreut
ar its South

,'. 4 J miles,
lands, both

K. u quailer
II the south-

uid, wiicii
inn Ishvnd,

Shij) Covr.
.\ \r(\ of tin

Shalloway Island, is N.N. K. about l\ luile. It is about a (|uaiit'i of a iiiili' wide: in
sailing up, keep the west shore on board, in order to avoid a sunken rock on the Kast shore,
at about hall way up, and about a cable's length from llio shore. Another rock, with 2^
fathoms on it, lies above a cable's length to the S.W. of llaihnitr I'oint, which is round
and green, and of moderate height, joined to Great liurin Islaml by a low, narrow, sanily,
neck.

HuiuN Bay is about one mile N.N.K. of Little lUirin Island : it is clear, and about a
mile wide every way : here ships may occasionally anchor, and lie almost land-locked.
Ill this bay are two Islands, one called Poor Island, low and barren ; liie olliir lies to tlie
northward, before the entrance of Uuriii Inlet, and is high and woody.

Ht'iuN Inlki may be entered on either side of the island ; it extends up 5 miles: a
little within the entrance on the Kast side, half a cable's length from liie shore, is a rock
covered at three-quarters Hood ; and 1} mile from the entrance, near tlie middle, is
another rock, to the westward of whirh 's good room, and good anchorage, in from 7 to 12
fathoms. There are l.'i fatiioms in the entrance ; and, in the middle, two miles up, 15 to
23 fathoms ; and thence up to the head are from 10 to 5 fathoms.

The Kast passage in is between Fardy's Island and Iron Island : but is not safe without
a commanding gale, and that between the N.N.K. and S.K.

CoiiiWN IIauhoi'U is about a mile to the noithwanl of Corbin Head, and is a good
harbour for .^mull vessels. A (piarter of a mile eastward from this harbour, and '2 cables'
leiiglli from the shore, is a sunken ruck, of ^> or G feet of water, on which tlie sea breaks
in bad weather. \'essels bound fur this harbour must also avoid a sho.il of J fathoms of
water, which lies 10. S.K. from the South point of the entrance about half a mile. The best
anchorage is in the North arm, about half a mile within the eiiliaiice, opposite a cove on
the starbuaid sid(>.

From Corbin Head Ui Small Point the course and distance are W.S.W. 'i[ miles; and
from Small I'oint to Snulitr Head W. \ S. 'I miles : there are many head-lands between,
which form coves, but allbid no shelter. The coast is clear of rocks ; and there are 30
fathoms of water close to the shore.

Krom Sauker Head to Cape C/uipcau lioiigr, the bearing and distance are NV . by N. .'{
miles; between lie the harbours of (itral and Litllc St. Ldicrcnco.

The harbour of Kitti.k St. J.awiu7«ci. is the first to the westward of Sauker Head.
To sail in, you Tiiust keep the West shore on board, to avoidL-a sunken rock, which lies
a little without the point of the iieniiisula, (which strelchis off from the east side of the
harbour. The anchorage is alcove the peninsula, which shelters it from (he sea-winds,) in
3 or 4 fathoms of water, a fine sandy loltom. Ships may anchor without the peninsula in
Iv' fathoms, good ground, but this place is open to S.S.K. wind.s.

'J'he l.aibour of (iiUAr Sr. Lawri-.nci:, which is the westernmost, is close to the east-
ward uf ( 'ape Chap'jae. Houge. To sail in, you should be careful with wcsteily, parti-
cularly with S.W., winds, :iot to approach too near the ClKij'CaH lioutic, or lUd-lhit
Mountain, in order to a-oid the daws and eddy winds under the high land. There is no
danger but what is very neai the shore. The course in is first N.N. W. till yon open the
upper part of the harbour, then N. J W. The best anciior.ige for large ships is before a
cove, on die east sidv. of the harbour, in 13 fathoms of water. This harbour has 200
inhabitants.

A little above Blue Ikuch Point, wliich is the first on the West side, you may lie only
two jioints open : you may anchor ai;y where between tlii> point and the {)oint of Low
litach, on die same side, near the lioa;l < i" the harbour, observing thai, close to the West
shore, the ground is not so good as on the other side.

(Jarden Hank, whereon are from 7 to 16 fathoms of water, lies about half a mile ofi"
Little St. Lawrcjice, with blue lieach Point on with tiie east point of Oreat St. Lawrence.

IV. — TuE COAST wtsTWAKi) OF CAPE CHAPRAU ROUGE, with xiir. Isla.no.s

Of Sr. PIKRIIK AND MIQUKLON.

FERIIYLAND HEAD lies W.S.W. one mile from Cape Chapeau Rouge; it is a
high locky island, iust separated from the main,

W.N.W., .5 mihs from Kerr\lan'l Ikud, lies tiie liay of Imuh, in the bolloin of wliich

THE COAST WFSTWAUD

\h -:

1' f|

are two small inlets, called Great <ind Little \.ann. i.iule Laun is the easlornmost, lies
upen to the S.W. winds, and therefore is no place to anchor in. (Jreat Laun lies in about
N.K. hy N. 2 miles ; is near h:df a mile wide, and has from 14 to 3 fatliunis of water.
In sailmgin, be careful to avoid a sunken rock, which lies about a quarter of a mile otl"
the east point. The best anchorage is on the east side, about half a mile from the hi.ad, in
T) and '> fathoms, tolerably good l)otiom, and open only to SouUi and S. by W. winds,
which cause a great swell.

I^AUN Islands lie oil' the west point of Laun Ray, not far from the shore ; ihf west-
eniiiiost and outermost of which Hi W.N.W., westerly 10 miles from Ferryland Mead.
Nearly a quarter of a mile to the southward of this island is a rock, whereon the sea
breaks in very bad weather ; there are other sunken rocks about these islands, but not
dangerous, being very near the shore.

Taylors Jiatj lies open to the sea, about 3 miles to the westwanl of Laun Islands. Off
the east point aie some rocks, near a quarter of a mile.

Point Aux Gaul is a low point of land, which stretches out a little to the we«itward of
Taylor's Hay : a rock lies off it above water, half a mile from the shore, called Ganl .SA«^'
liock, which bears from Terryland Head W.N.W. ■] W. .'5 leagues : there are 14 fulhoms
close to the off-side of it.

From Point Aux Gaul Shaij Rock to the Lamki.in Isi.and'', the bearing and distance
are N.W. by W. one league ; between is the liai/ of Lame I in, which lies behind two islets,
with a flat marshy shore on the other side; it is used by tlie rtshiiig-boals. There is a
considerable number of houses here, but from the want of wood the inhabitants mostly
leave it in the winter.

Near the south point of the westernmost Lameli'i Island is a rock |)ietty high above
water, called Lamtlin Shag Rock.

From Lamelin Shag Hock to Voint il/'.'./, the distance is R miles ; between lie the
T.amelin Led^ei, which are very dangerous, some of liien: being 3 miles from the land.
To avoid them in the tlay time, you should not bring the Lamelin Isl.mds to the south-
ward of E.S.K. until Point May bears N.E. by N. from you ; you may then steer north-
ward between I'oiiit May and Ureen Island with safety. Hy night, approach no nearer
than in 30 faihoms of water.

ST. PIERRE, or ST. PRTF.R'S ISLAND.— The island of St. Pierre lies 11
leagues W. by N. ficm (.'apr Cliapeau Houije ; it is about 4 leagues in cin^uil, and is
barren in the extreme ; it is a mass of rocky hummocks rising to a height of 400 or vlOO
feet directly from the water, and destitute of any trees. On coming from the westward,
(ioluntri/ lliiiil, which is the S.K. point of liie island, makes in a round hummock, like a
small island, separated from St. Pierre. The port is on the eastern side of the island, at
only a mile to the northwestward of Point Cronicr, the easternmost point ; and it is
bounded on the Last by C/iien or Do^ Is/and, eastward of whicli are several islets and
rocks. The passage in, between Chien Island and St. Pierre, is veiy narrow, and bordered
with rocks, but in mid-channel are G, 4, 3.^, 5, and 6 fathoms.

Upon Carioii Point, oi) the north side of the entrance to the inner harbour, in latitude
46° 46' ■")' ', long, 56° 8' 44", is a r lodern light-house, with fixed harbour-light, about a
quarter if a mile eastward of the town, which is kept up from the Isl of May to the
Ijth >r November. With this light-house btariiig W. by N. or W. | N. about two
cables' length, there is anchorage in SJ and G faihoms of water.

Tlir Harbour of St. Pierre is small and well ihellered from all winds. It has three
',ntrances, all of \vh'"h can l.'f) taken with a little attention, it has from 20 to 12 feet of
water. The tiiily (hiiuicr tii.ii ciiiiiof be seen is a small rock (I' E Junt PcrduJ, lying
about one mile Ka.>t, uue, from the /, ,', aux Bows, the fuimjitcur of the late charts. The
road lies (»n the N.W. side of (.'hien or Dog island, and will admit ships of any burthen
in 0, 10, or 12 fiihoms of water. Tne best anchorage is on the north side : but in general
it is rocky, and exposed to t!ie N.L. winds.

The Coloiiibier, so called from its similarity to a dove-cote, from the great flocks of
puflins which breed here, and are always flying about it in great flocks. It lies very near
to the N.K. point of St. Pierre, and is pretty high ; between is a passage of oue-third of a
mile wide, with 12 faihoms of water, but there is l ree^^on the south side. On the north
side of the island is a rock called Little ('ohmiitr, and about ono-quarter of a mile E.N.K.
from it is a sunken ruck, with 2 faihoms on it.

OF CAPK CIIAPKAU U()U(iE.

nost, lies
ill ahuiit
of waliT.
I mile ort'
t'htail, in
r'. winds,

the svest-
id Head.
Ml die sea
, but not

nds. Off

istward of
innl Shiiff
14 fallioMH

d distaiicp
two islets,
riiere is a
nts mostly

high above

een lie the
I the land,
the soulh-
sletT north-
no nearer

rre lies 11

uit, and is

or 500

westward,

oi'k, like u

island, at

.iiid It is

Islets ami

bordered

Hn latitude
about a
lay to the
labout two

has three

12 feet of

\duj, ly I r^'

iris. The

Ly burthen

jin general

flocks of

J very near

(third of a

she north

M- E.N.K.

CiHF.FN Island is about thiee-(|uarters of a milo in circuit, and low ; it lies K.N.K.
alK)ut 5 miles from St. Pierre, and nearly in the middle of the channel between it and
Newfoundland; on its south side arc several rocks above and under water, extending 1^
mile to the W.S.NV.

Z.ANOZ.SY or LITTLK MKjl'KLON.-This island lies to the N.W. of Si.
Pierre, with a passage of about '2\ miles wide between, free from danger, it is about
leagues in circuit, of a moderate and pretty etjual height, excepting the north end,
which is low, with sand-hills; off which, on both sides, it is flat a little way; but every
other part of the island is bold to. It is a much more pleasant |)l.ice than St. Pierre, and
has a settlement in the N.K. bay. There is anchorage on the N.I'., side of the island in
5 or fl fathoms, a little to the southward of the Sand-hlllf, on a fine sandy bottom.

MZQlTXSZiON was formerly distinct from Laii.,dey, and on all old charts a channel
of 2 fathoms is marked as running between them. This, however, is now entirely filled
lip, and a long, nanow line of sand-hills, with a beach on each side, occupies its place.
Instances have been known, even of late years, of vessels in stress of weather making for
this channel, and being wrecked on the sands. .Mi(|uelon is 4 leagues in lt.ii'„'th from north
to south, and is about 5 miles in breadth at the widest part : the middle of the island is
high land, called the Uififi lAinds nf Dunn ; but down by the shore it is low, excepting
Cape Mii/uehn, which is a lofty promontory at the northern extremity of the island.

Miijuelon Road, which is large and spacious, lies at the north end, and on the east
side of the island, between (ape Mi()uelon and (.'liapcau ; the latter is a very remaikable
round mountain near the shore, oH' which are some sunken rocks, at the distance of
about a quiw^er of a mile ; but every where else it is clear of danger. The best anchorage
is in 6 or 7 fathoms, near the bottom of the road, on tine sandy bottom ; but you lie
exposed to easterly winds.

Mi</uel()ii Hocks stretch off from the eastern point of the i.sland, und'r the high land,
1\ mile to the eastward: some are above, and some underwater; the outermost are
above water, and there are I'i fatiioms of water close to them, and 1» or 20 a mile ofl'.
N.iO. by K. ^ !C. about 4 miles from these rocks lies Miquelon Mank, on which are C
fathoms of water.

The Seal Rocks, two in number, are above water, and lie about b miles oft' from the
middle of the west side of Miquelon ; the passage between them and the island is very
safe; and there are 14 or 15 fathoms of water within a cable's length, all around them.*

v.— FORTUNK HAY anu the Coast Wf.stwauu to thk HUllGKO ISLKS.

FORTUNE BAY, &c.— From Point Mat/, on the south, to Pass Island, on the
norlli, the bearing and distance are N, by K. 12 leagues: between is the entrance to
FORTUNFL HAY, which i. about 22 or 23 leagues deep : and in which are several bays,
harbours, and islands.

The Island Brunei lies pre»'y nearly in the middle of the entrance into Fortune Hay
it is about 5 miles in length : oc its N.K. side is a bay, wherein there is tolerably good
anchorage for ships, in 14 or i6 fathoms of water, sheltered from southerly and wcsleily
winds. In the bottom of the bay, at about a quarter of a mile fif>m the shore, are some
rocks, which must be avoided. Opposite to this bay, on the sou'h side of the island, is
a small cove, with G fathoms of water. The islands lying off tin; west end of Hriiiu't, to
the southward, are called the Littie Brunets, which, with Hrunet, may be aj proached
within a quarter of a mile all round.

The Plate Islands are three rocky islets, of a moderate height, the nearest of which lie.s
W.S.NV. one league from the west end of (Jreat lirunet. The soulhernmost is about 2 miles
farther off, and bears from Cape Mu/ueton F. i S. 1 1 miles; and, in a direct line bviween
Pyinl .May and Pass Island, 17 miles from the ♦urmer, and 19 miles from the latter, F.S.F.

• The Islands of St. Pierre, Lannlcy, and Miijueloii, were ceded to France by England, on con-
dition that no forts should be l)uill on either; that no more than fifty men of renuiar troops should
he kept there, and that ll'ey should hu»e no mihiary stores, or cannon, capable of making' a. defence.
Durnijr tile lute hostilitie.", these isles wire mu.exed to the Govcrnmeni of Newfoundland, having
been taken possession of by the British forces. 1 1th May, 1793 ; but they were ultiinately restored
to Fr.Tiice, on the original conditions, \iy rlic ticaty of IHl }.

"!M*^#!?^' ,

FOUrUNK BAY A NU ITS HAHIUjUUS.

1(1

a qiiaiicr uf :i mile iVoin tlic Ciieut IMutu (wliicli is lliu iiurlliernmobt) \$ a sunkcii rotk,
whereon (he sea broaits, which is he only (lunger about llitm.

There are several slron(< and irregular sr-itinfjs of the tides or curtents about tlie I'latc
and HruiK't I inlands, which srein to have no dcpench-ncy on the moon and the course of
the tides on the coast.

Saffonii Island, which lies N.K. 2 leagues from the cast end of lirunet, is about a mile
across each wny, of a moderate hei;^ht, and bold-to nil round.

POINT MAY is the soutliern extremity of Fortune Itay.and the S.W. extremity of this
part of Newfoundland ; it may be known by a threat black rock, nearly joiinii;j to the j)ilch
of the point, and somelhiiiK higher than the land, whicii makes it look like a black hum-
tnock on the point. At about a r|iiarlcr of a inile directly off bom this black rf)tk are three
sunken rocks, on which the sea always breaks.

N. by K. Ij mile from Point .May, is IJll/e Datitzkk Cove; and 2 miles farther
is (jfttit Dnnlzick Cove. From Dantzick Point (which is the noith point of the cove>) to
Fortune Head, the bearing and distance are 2] Icaj^ucs IvN.K.; an(( thence to Forlunc,
1.^ mde S.K. by E. This is a fishing vilh^e, and the road where the siiips lie has (j to 10
fathoms of water, <juite exposed to nearly h;ilf the compass. It lies S.S.W. from the east
end of Brunei.

The ('apk of GnANiJ Bank is pretty hit^h, and lies one league E.N. K. from I'ortune.
To the eastward of this cape is Ship Cove, where there is good anchorage for shipping
in M or 10 fathoms of water, sheltered from southerly, westerly, and N.^V. winds. Grand
Bank lies S.E. half a league from the cape: this is a tishing village, and here is no security
for shipping.

From the Cape of the Grand Bank to the I'oint Kitrdtfte, the course is E.N.E. I F.
distance B leagues: the coast between forms a bay, in which the shore is low, with
several sandy beaches, behind which are bar-harbours, fit only for boats, of which the
principal is (ireat (iarnisli, lying 4 J leagues from the (ape of (irand Bank : it may be
known by several rocks above water lying before it, at two miles from slioie, the outcr-
inosl of which are steep-to; but, between liiem anil the shore are dangerous sunken rocks.
To iho eastward, and within these rocks, is Freyuhnian's Cow, where small vessels may
anchor in 4 or 5 fathoms of water, tolerably well sheltered from tlio sea-winds. The sliore
is bold all the way from Point May to Cape of (Jrand Bank, there being 10 or 12 fathoms
within 2 cables' length, and '30 or 10 at a mile oil': between tiie latter and Great (Garnish
ihe water is not so deep, and ships may anchor any wheie in a or lU fathoms of water,
sheltered only from the land-winds.

F'rom Point Enragt'e to the head of the bay, the course is, first, E.N.E. j E. 3 leagues,
to Grand Jcrvey ; then E. i N. Vi leagues to the head of the bai/.

Seven leagues to the eastward of Point Enragee is the Hay L\lrgent, where there is
anchorage in 80 or 40 fathoms of water, sheltered from all winds.

Hakiioiih Mii.i.K.— The entrance of Harbour Mille lies to the eastward of the east point
of L' Argent. Before this harbour, and the Bay L'Argent, is a remarkable rock, which, at
a distance, appears like a shallop under sail. Harbour Mille branches into two arms, one
lying to the N.E., the other to the east; at the upper part of botii is good anchorage.
Between this harbour and Point Fnragee are several l)ar-harbours, in small bays, wherein
are sandy beaches : but the water all along the coast is very deep.

Cape Milli lies N.E. i E. one league from the Shallop Hock above mentioned, and
nearly 'A leagues from the head of Fortune Bay : it is a high reddish barren rock. The
width of Fortune Bay at Cape Mille does not exceed half a league; but, immediately
below it, it is twice as wide, by which the cape may readily be known ; above this cape
the land on both sides is high, with steep craggy clitls. The head of the bay is terminated
by a low beach, behind which is a large pond, or bar harbour, tit only for boats.

Grand Pierre is a good harbour, situated on the north side of the bay, half a league
from the head. The entrance cannot be seen until you are abreast of it; there is no
danger in going in, and you may anchor in any depth from 8 to 4 fathoms, sheltered
from all winds.

Engtiih Harhonr lies a little to the westward of Grand Pierre; and to the westward of
English Harbour is the Little liny de V Kau, both of which are small.

A'eu; Harbour is situated opposite to Cape Mille, to the westward of the Hay de I'Eau :

K)llTr\K BAY AM) ITS HAniiOURS.

iikc'it ri)tk,

ii tlic I'laio
le course of

uoul a mile

mily of lliis
to Ihe pilch
black lium-
)ck are lliiee

uiles furllier
hu covoo) to
to Forluiu,
lias (3 lo 10
rom ihe east

>iii Fortune,
for sliippiiig
nils, (ifand
IS no security

K.N.K. i K.

is low, with
of whicli the
k : it may be
10, tlic outcr-
sunktti tocks.
■ vessels may
The shore
12 fathoms
rent (Jarnisli
s of water,

i. 3 leagues,

lere there is

U! east point
ok, which, at
ivo arms, one
tl anchorage.
^ay^ , wherein

ntioncd, and

rock, Th(.'

immediately

ve this cape

lis terminated

Its.

|i;df a league

there is no

Ls, sheltered

Iwestward of

Ly de I 'Bail :

II is u small inlet, nnd has qood anchorage on the west side, in from n to 6 fathoms,
>liellered from S.W. winds.

The lliithinir I'nntiw lies half a lcnf»ue to the westward of New Harbour; nnd one
leaijue lo the westward of Harbour I'emme, is linurr's Hole, fit only for boats.

IliiiBoin z.A C'oNTE is situated one mile to the westward of Brewer's Hole, before
which there are two islands, one without the other. The best passagi; in is on the west
side of the ouler island, and between the two; so soon as you bci^in to open the harbour,
keep the inner island close on boaid, lo avoid some sunken rocks tliat lie near a small
island, which you will discover between the N.F,. point of ihe outer island, and the opposite
point on the main : also another ruck which appears at low water, and lies higher up on
the side of the main. So soon as you are above these dan^jers, you may keep in the
middle of ihe channel, and will open a fine spacious harbour, wlu'rein you in.iy anchor in
any depth, from lo 16 fathoms of water, on a bottom of sand and mud, shut in from
all winds.

Long IIauholii lies 4 miles to the westward of Harbour La Conte, and N.R. by K.
,'» leaeuos from Point Knrau;('e. It may be known by ('mil hlaml, which lies at its mouth,
and a small rock, which lies half a mile without the island, and has the appearance of a
.small boat : this harbour runs .'> leagues into the country, but the only anchoring is in
Morgans Cove, on the N.W. side of the harbour, about 'J miles within (iuU Isl.md, in 15
fathoms of water, unless you run above the Narrows.

A little to the westward of Long Harbour is Mem r. IIav, which extends aboul three
Iraiiues each way, and contains several bays an«l harbours. On the east point of i'.iis bay
is }litre Ihtrbour, tit for small vessels only.

Two miles to the northward of Hare Harbour is il/i// Tiau : and, to the westward of
Mai May, near the shore, lie the Rencontre Idinuh, the westernmost of which is the largest,
and has a communication with the r.iain at low water.

Hf.i.i.k Haiiiiour lies 4 miles N.W. by N. from the westernmost Rencontre Island ; it
is but an indifferent harbour. About j.| mile westward of Belle Harbour is Lally
Cove, fit for small vessels only, behind an island ; the west point of this cove is high and
bluff, and is called l.uUij Head ; to the northwaid of this head is L«//j/ BtuL Cove, where
ships may anchor in 14 or Ki fathoms of water.

Two miles to the northward of Lally Cove Head is the Bay of the K<tsl and the Ray of
the Nortfi ; in both of these there is deep water and no anchorage near the shore.

The bay of Cim/ iJex lies to the southward of Norlli Bay, and opposite to Lally Cove
Head; there is tolerably good anchorage for large ships on the S.W. side of the islands,
in the boltom of the bay. A little to the southward of the bay of f'in(j isles is Corbcn
IUi>i, where there is good anchorage for any ships in 2'i or 24 fathoms of water.

About 'J miles sonih-eastward from Lnlly Cove Head are twcj islands, about a mile
distant from each other ; the north-easltrnmosl is called Hell ht/nid, and the other Dofi
Inland ; they are bohl-to all round.

Between Dog Island and Lord mid Ladi/ Island, wliich lies olF the south point of (Jorben
Bay, something nearer to the latter is a sunken rock, wilh deep water all rouiul it; and,
aboul a quarter of a mile to the northward of Lord and Lady Island, is a rock, which
appears at low water.

IlANnr. ur, i.'Autin Bay lies on the west point of Belle Day, and N. { W. .'J leagues
from I'oint I'.nragte ; it may be known by a very high mountain over the bay, which rises
almost perptixlicular from the sea, called Iron Head. Chapel hlaud, which forms the
east si<le of the bay, is high land also ; the haiboiir lies on the west siile of thu bay, just
williin the point formed by a narrow low beach, and is a snug place: between the haibuur
and Iron Head there is tolerably good anchorage in 18 or 20 fathoms.

Bande de I'Arier Bank has 7 ftithoms of water on it, and lies with the beach of Bandi;
de I'Arier Harbour just open of the west point of the bay, and Boxy Point on wilh the
north end of St. Jacques Island.

Two miles to the westward of Bande de I'Arier is the Itarbour of .SV. Jaeqvt s, which
may he readily known by the island before it being high at each end, and low in the
middle. The passagi> into the harbour is on the west side of the island, free from daii;^ci,
as is the haibour, where you may anchor in from 17 to 4 fathoms.

nAunouii DiiiioN, Sic.

V K

About I J milp westward ol St. Jiicquej, ih the liarbour of Blue Pinion ; a lilllo to lite
westward uf w liich is Knglisli Cove.

liorv Point lies U . J S. 8 miles from St. Jacques Island, and K.N.K. { K. I2J miles
from tlie east end of Itrunet Island; it is of a moderate height, iirid tlie most advanced to
the southward of any land on the coast. Moxy llirhour lii's N.l". 3 n)iles from I3oxy
Point, in which there is anchorage in 4 ur ;. I'alt'oins of water, fine sandy ground.

W.N.W. one mile from lloxy I'oint is ilie Inland vf St. John, N.N.W. half a league
from St. .lohn's Island is Si. .lohn's Head, high, st£e|i, .tud craggy. Uetweeu St. John's
Ilrad and Hoxy Point is Si. .lohn's Hay, (juiie exposed.

On the north side of St. John's Head are two rocky islols, called the (Jull and Shag ; at
tlu' west end of which there are several su,,ken rocks.

The (iHKAT Bay nr. l'Kai is about IJ league to the northward of St. John's llcnd. In
this hay lliero is good anchorage in various de|)ths, sheltered from all winds. The passage
in is on the east side of the i>land, which lien iti its entrance.

To the westward of !lay de I'l-^au, about 3 r.iies north fiom St. John's Head, is Little
linrrynwaji or liardrhoin, on the west sidi- of which there is good anchorage for large .ships
in 7, H, or 10 fathoms.

IlAUMOril lUllTON lies to the westward of l.i'tlr Hairysway, N.N.K. l\ league
from the Island of Saffonn, and N.K. by N. from tin east end of Hrunet. The heads
which form the entrance are pretty hiuh, ^md lie from e;ich other H.K. and N.W., diilaiil
about two miles. Near the ea^t iiead is a rock above water. The oidy ilanger in going in
is a ledge of rocks, which siretch '2 cables' length from the south point of the S.W. arm,
which is more (ban a mile within the west head. The only plarc lor large ships to anchor
in is above this ledge, before the entrance of the S.VV. arm, m 1(5 or 10 fathoms, mooring
nearly east and west ; the bottom is very good, and plenty of wood and water is to be
obtained here.

Opposite to the S.W. arm is the N.R. arm, or Jerteymnn^ llnrhour, which is rnpable of
holding a great number of ships, secure from all winds, i[i 0, 7, and fathoms of water:
it has a bar at the entrance, on which there are .1 fathoms. The mark to sail over the bar
is, the point of T/iompson't limrh, which is the south point, at the entrance into the S.\\ .
arm, open of Jerseyman's I lend, which is high and blufl, on the north side of the entrance
into Jcrseyman's Harbour; so soon as you open the harbour, haul up to the northward,
and anchor.

From the West End oj' lluibour lirilon In Connuifire Head, the bearing and distance
are W. ,} N. Ai miles; between are Gull Island and Deudnians htn/, ofl" which there is a
banV stretching from the shore between '2 and '.i miles, whereon the depths vary from 34 to
■t fathoms.

(lONNAHiRl", HAY. — From Connaigre Head, which is high and cragjjy, to linsscterre
Point, the be.iring and distance are N.W. .| W. 7 miles; lielweeii is t'onniiigre Hay,
which extends about 4 leagues inland. In the mouth of the Hay lie the Connaigre Rocks,
above water, which may be approached very near, there being no danger but what shows
itself: the channel between them and Connaigie Head is the safest, as a ledge of rocks
extends a mile from the north shore, which renders the other channel rather dangerous.

Connaigre Harbour is near 5 miles above the head, within a point on the south side of
the bay : it is very small, and the depth of water is 7 fathoms ; the passage in is oti the
S.F-. side of the ishiiid, which liest before it. Abreast of this liarbour, nearly in the middle
of the bay, ;?re two islands ; and on the south side ol the westernmost, are .some rocks
above water.

Dawson's (!ove is on the N.NV. side of the bay, and bears N.N.K. about 4 miles from
the head, and W.N.\\'. 1 miles from the west end of the westernmost (and the greatest)
island : the anchorage is in 6 or :> fathoms, quite exposed to southerly winds.

Piom Hassot' rre Point, which is clear of wood, to Pau Island, the bearing and distance
are, N.W. by N. one league. This island forms the N.VV. extremity of Fortune Hay; it
lies very near the shore, and is ;'.(iove a mile long. On its .S.W. side are several rocks
above water, which extend a liiilc otf; and on the N.W. side is a sunken rock, at a quarter
of a mile from the island.

Ill the niglit-tinic, or in foggy weather, too great dependence should not be placed on the

'«

IIEUMITAGK HAY TO IlAV OF DF.SPAin.

lilllo to tlie

. I '2) milei

nlvancod to

from I5oxy

lalfa lcap;iic
St. Juliii'ii

nd Sliag ; at

» Urntl. In
The passaHic

.'ad, is Little
)r largo ships

r'. 1 i Irapuo

The heads

J.W., diitaiii

!r in K">"S i"
3 S.W. arm,
ips to aiK.hor
tins, mooring
aler is to be

I is capable of

ms of water :

over the bar

to the S.W.

tlic entratico
northward,

iiid distance
eh iheie is a
ry from 34 to

(u linssclerrc

nnaii;re Hay,

aipre Hocks,

what shows

li>o of rocks

mgerous.

otith side of
in is on llie
n tiie middle
some rocks

miles from
lllie greatest)

land distance

|une Hay ; it

?veral rocks

I nt a quarter

Paced un the

soundinRS iit Fortune Bay ; for there is more water in many parts T»oar the fcliorc, and in
several nf its contained bays and harbours, than in the midille of the bay itself.

KSRMZTAOS BAY. -From Pass I>land tu the W(st end of I.'uig Island, (h^
bearmg and diilance are, N.K. ci>;lit miles : between is the entrance of lU'rinilm^c Ihiy,
which extends 7\ leugucs east from Puss Island, with very <l<;ep water in most pans of it.

Hrnnitai^e Coir is on the south side of the bay, about .'tj Icauues al)(i\e I'ass Island,
opposite which, and nearly in ihe middle of the bay, lie the two I'ox Islands: to ko into
the cove, keei> between the islands and the south shore, where there is not the least danger.
In the cove there is ^ood anchorage in H or l<) fiihoms.

LoN(i Isi.ANO, which separates the lini/ of Ihxjxtir from Hermitage Bay, is of a trian-
pnlar form, about ft leagues in circuit. The w»'>t entrance into the Hay of Despair fiotn
Hermitage May is by the west end of Long I>land. Aliout half a nnle from its S.W. point
are two rocks above water, with deep wattr all round them. The east passage is also very
good, and is between the cast end of Long Island and the main, called the Passage of
Long Island.

There are four haibours un the south side of Long Island, the easternmost of whicli
is called (iultaua: the latter is but small, and lies near the east point of the island: the
best channel into the harbour is on the west side of .several rocky islatids, whu h lie ut
(he entrance, wherein are four fathoms, but in the haibour arc from lA to 24 f.ithoms.
The next is Piairrc, which lies N. by 15. Iialf a league from the easternmost Fox Island ;
in going in here, keep near the west point, in order to avoid some sunken rocks off the
other: the anchorage is ill the thst cove on the east side, in or 10 fathoms, sheltered
from all winds.

The next harbo' ^alled Hound Jlnrhonr, is fit oidy for small vessels.

I.oDfT Is/and . ur is the fourth, and it lies about '2\ miles from the west end of

Long Islaiiii. Tliir, iiarbour has two anus, one lying in to the nurlli, the other lastwiud :
they arc bodj very narrow, and have from 40 to 7 fathoms of water ; the eastern arm in
the deepest, and affords the best anchorage. The passage in is on either side of an island
which lies off the ciUrunce, and has several rucks above water about it, but they are
both narrow,

BAY OP DBSPAZR — The entrance of the May of Despair lies between the
west end of Long Island and (iieut Jcivis Island (whidi lus in the mouth of the harbour
of that name); the distance between is one mile aiid a quartir, and midway no bottom is
found with a lino of 2tiO fathoms.

The May of Despair forms two capaciovis arm's, one extending to the north-eastward, the
other northward ; in the north arm there is very deep wati r, and no anchorage excepting in
the small bays and coves which lie on each side of it. In the N.K. arm are several arms
and islands, and tolerably good anchorage in several places.

(iRF.AT .Iehvis ll.\i(iiori( is situated at the west entrance into ihe Bay of Despair; it is
a safe harbour, with good anchoraue on every part of it, in from 16 to '20 fathoms, secure from
all winds, and plenty of wood and water. The pas>agc in is on either siile of (iie.it .lervis
Island ; but the southernmost channel is the safest, there being no danger in it but the shore
itself. In llie northern chatincl arc several sunken rocks.

HONNFi BAY lies about a league to the westward of (Jreat .Tervis Head, and N.N.E.
7 miles fiom Pass Island; it has several islands in its mouth, the we^ternmost of which
is the laigest and highest. The best passage in is to the eastward of the largest island,
between it and the two easternmost islands. The bay lies in north 4 miles, and there U
no danger but what shows itself; you may go on cither side of lhiil:e Island, which is
small, and nearly in the middle of the bay ; between which, and two small is! inds on the
west side of the bay, within (Jieal Island, there is anchorage in 20 or 'M) fathoms ; but tht
best place for larg(! ships is near the head of the bay, in 1'2 or 14 fathoms, clear ground, and
convenient for wood ami water. On the N.W. side of Great Island, within the two small
islands, is very goo<l anchorage in from 10 to 24 fathoms, secure from all winds; the en-
trance to this from the bay is to the northward of tl:'_ two small islands. In sailing in or
out of the bay, approach not too near the south j)oint of Ciroat Island, as ihcie are some
sunken rocks lying at one-quarter of a mile from shore.

W.N.W. 4 miles from Bonne liui/, is the entrance to the Bays of Fachel'x and Dra-
<>oN' : this entrance being very conspicuous at sea, the coast may here be readily known.

i^l

.■■:^'

'iu

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)

1.0

I.I

l^|2.8

150 '''^~

"^ m
1^

2.5
22

1.8

1.25 1.4 1.6

•• 6"

►

Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

33 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

liff

-1^

CAPE AND BAY OF LA IIUNE.

Facheux, which is the easternmost branch, lies in N.N.E, 2 leagues, and is one-third of
a mile wide at the entrance, with deep water in most parts of it. On the west side of the
bay are three coves, where ships may anchor in from 10 to 20 fathoms. Dragon Bay lies
in N.W. one league, and is near half a mile wide, with GO or 70 fatlioms of water, and no
anchorage excepting near the head.

One leaEue to the westward of Facheux is lUchanVs Harlovr, a place fit only for small
vessels. N.W. by W. one league from ilichard's Harbour is Hare Ihy, wliich runs in
N.N.E. about 5 miles, and is about one-third of a mile wide, with deep water close home
to both shores on all parts of if, except about one league up on the west side, where tiiere
is good anchorage, in from 8 to 15 fathoms, with plenty of wood and water; and a small
cove abcut one mile up on the east side, where there are 20 flxthoms, with gradual sound-
ings to the shore.

N.W. by W. 4^ miles from Hare B;iy, and one league N.E. from Bares Fmvs Point, is
Devil's Bay, a narrow inlet, extending a league to the northward, with deep water, and no
anchorage until you come close to the head.

The Bay of Rencontre lies to the northward of Hare's Ears Point, and runs in N.W. by
W. 2 leagues ; it has deep water in most parts of it, and is near half a mile wide at the
narrowest part. The anchorage is in 30 fathoms, aV-ove a low woody point on the south
shore, quite land-locked.

Hare's Ears Point is pretty large, with r. ragged rock upon it, which, from some points
of view, looks like the ears of a hare. It divides the Bays of llencontre and Chaleur, and
lies N.W, ^W. 6 leagues from Pass Island.

W.N.W. 2 miles from Hare's Ears Point is the Bay of Chaleur; which runs in about
2 leagues N.N.W. It is very narrow, and has deep water in most parts.

West, near half a league from the Bay of Chaleur, is the Baij Frnn^ois, a small inlet;
and west, 4 miles from the Bay Francois, on the east side of Cope la Hune, lies Oar Bay ;
off the east point of the entrance of the latter is a low rocky islet: and, in die entrance of
the bay is another with a passage on each side of it. The bay runs in nordiward about
5 miles, and is one-third of a mile wide, widi deep water close to both shores all the way
up ; at the head is a harbour for small vessels

CAPE IiA KUNE is the southernmost point of land on this part of the coast,
lat. 47° 31' 35'', long. 36° .50' 23", N.W. by W. 4 W. 8^ leagues from Pass Island, and
N. by W. 5 W. lOJ leagues from Cape Miquelon ; its figure much resembles a sugar-
loaf : this cape may also be known by the high land of Cape La Hune, which lies one
league to the westward of it, appears pretty flat at the top, and may be seen from a distance
of 16 leagues.

The Penguin Tstands lie S.W. by W. J W. 11 miles from Cape La Hune, and
N.W. ^ N. 10 leagues from Cape Miquelon ; they are an assemblage of barren rocks
lying near to each other, and altogether about two leagues in circuit; and may be ap-
proached in the day-time to the distance of half a league all round.

E.S.E. i E. 7 miles from the Penguin Islands, and S. by W. 3 leagues from Cape La
Hune, lies the Whale Rock, on which the sea generally breaks ; it is about 100 fathoms
in circuit, with 10, 12, and 14, fathoms of water close-to all round. From this rock a
narrow bank extends, one league to the westward, and half a league to the eastward, with
from 24 to 58 fathoms of water on it, rocky and gravelly bottom. In the channel between
the shore and this rock, and also between the shore and the Penguin Islands, are 120 and
130 fathoms of water, muddy bottom, and there are the same bottom and depth of water at
one league without them.

La Hune Bay lies close to the westward of Cape La Hune : it is about 2 leagues deep,
and one-third of a mile wide, with deep water in most parts of it • but there is a sunken
rock which lies off the west point of the entrance, nearly one-third of the channel over.

La Hune Harbour lies half a league to the westward of Cape La Hune ; it has an
island before its entrance, and is fit for small vessels only.

Four leagues N.W. | W. from Cape La Hune, is the entrance of Little River, which
is about 100 fathoms wide at the entrance, and 10 fathoms deep ; a little way up there is
anchorage in 10, 8, and 7, fathoms of water, good ground. Between Cape La Hune and
Little River, the land is tolerably high, and forms a bay, where there are several small
islands and rocks above water, the outermost of which lie N.N.E, J R. 3 leagues from the
Penguin Islands, and are called the Magnetic Rocks.

i??"f, t' '''

BUaCEO ISLES.

-third of
le of the
Bay lies
, and no

for small
I runs ill
ose home
lere there
d a small
ul sound-

Point, is
;r, and no

, N.W. by

ide at the
the south

)me points
laleur, and

IS in about

imall inlet ;
Oar Bay ;
entrance of
ivard about
all the way

■ the coast,
Island, and
E!S a sugar-
icli lies one
1 a distance

Ilune, and
)arren rocks
may be ap- •

•m Cape La
100 fathoms
this rock a
tward, with
nel between
are 120 and
of water at

agues deep,
is a sunken
lel over.

it has an

liver, which
up there is
a Hune and
3veral small
ues from ti>c

S. by W. i W. 7 miles from the entrance of Little River, and N. by W. ^ W. from ti.e
Penguin Islands, lie the Little River Rocks, which are just above water, with very deep
water all round them.

IIAIMEA. — The Isles of Ramea, which are of various extent, both in height and cir-
cuit, lie N.W, J N. 5J leagues from the Penguin Islands, and one lengue from the main:
they extend east and west 5 miles, and north and soutl> 'J miles, and have several rocks
and breakers about them ; but more on the south side than on tlie nortli. Tiie eastern-
most island is the largest, and is very high and hilly : the westernmost, called Colnmbe, is
a remarkably hi^^h round island, of small circuit, with some rocky islands and sunken
rocks near it. There is a harbour for small vessels, formed by the islands which lie near
Great Ramea and the Columbe, called liumeu Harbour, where they may lie sheltered from
all winds

The llamea Rocks are two in number, close to each other; they lie about south 4 miles
from the east end of Great Ramea : W.S.W. one league from these rocks is a small bank
with only 6 fathoms of water on it; and, nearly in the middle, belweun Ramea and tlie
Penguin Islands, is a bank with from 14 to 50 fathoms of water.

Four miles to the westward of Little River is Old Mail's Day, which lies in N.N.E.
about 7 miles, and is about a mile wide ; the water diroughout the bay is very deep ; the
best anchorage is at the head, in 14 or 16 fathoms.

Mosquito IlARnoun lies about half a league to the westward of Old Man's Bay; it is
a snug and safe harbour, but the entrance is so narrow, being only 48 fathoms in breadth,
that it is difficult to get in or out.

Fox Island Harbour is formed by an island of the same name : it lies about half a
league lo the westward of Mosquito Harbour : between are several rocky islands and
sunken rocks. This is a commodious harbour for small vessels, which may anchor in 8, 9,
and 10 fathoms of water. You may go in on either side of the island, and there is no
danger but what sliows itself.

WHITE BEAR BAY lies about two miles to the westward of Fox Island Harbour,
and N.N.E. one league from Great Ramea Island ; it has several islands in its mouth. It
lies in N.E. \ N. about 4 leagues, is near half a mile wide in the narrowest part, and has
deep water close to both shores in most parts, to tde distance of 8 miles up ; then the
ground rises at once to 9 fathoms, whence it shoalens gradually to the head with good
anchorage. The best passage into the bay is to the eastward of all the islands. On the
S.W. side of Bear Island, wliich is the easternmost and largest in the mouth of the bay, is
a small harbour, lying in east half a mile, with from 10 to 22 fathoms of water, but there
are several sunken rocks before its mouth, which render it difficult of access.

Six miles to the westward of White Bear Bay, and N. ^ E. from Ramea Columbe, are
two small harbours, called lied Island Harbours, formed by Red Island, which lies close
under the land. The westernmost is the largest and best, and has from 6 to 8 fathoms of
water, good anchorage. In going in, keep the island close on board, the outer part of
which is composed of steep red cliffs.

VI.— The SOUTH COAST from the BURGEO ISLANDS* to CAPE EJAY.

The BUXIG-EO ZSXiZSS are a cluster of islands extending about 5 miles along
shore, and forming several snug and commodious harbours. They lie about 3 leagues
N.W. by N. from Ramea Columbe. To sail into Burgeo from the eastward, the best pas-
sage is on the N.E. side of Boar Island, which is the northernmost, and lies N.N.W.
from Ramea Columbe. S.E. by S. from this island half a league, is a rock uncovered at
low water, on which the sea generally breaks; you may go on any side of this rock, the
water being deep all round it : so soon as you are to the N.W. of it, keep the north side of
Boar Island on board, and steer W. \ N. for Grandt/n Cove, the north point of which is
the first low point on your starboard bow ; haul round that point, and anchor in the cove
in 14 fathoms, and moor with a fast on shore. The best place for large ships to anchor in

* The position of the Burgeo Isles was given by Captain Cook, from a solar eclipse, in August,
1766, as 47" 36' 20" N. and 57" 36' 30" W. as shown in the Philosophical Transactions of 1767. The
same spot, Eclipse Island, as communicated by the late surveyors, is lat. 47° 36' 6" N. and long.
57° 36' 15" W.

1 ♦I

m'- i

BURGEO ISLES, &C.

is, betwixt Grandy's Cove and a small island, lying near the west point of Boar Island, in
20 or 24 fathoms, good ground, and sheltered from all winds. To sail into Grandy's Cove
from the westward is dangerous, unless well acquainted : there are several safe passages in
from the southward and eastward, between the islands, and good anchorage ; and in bad
weather all the sunken rocks discover themselves, and you may run in witliout any fear. .

Wolf Bay extends inward N.E. by E. one league; the entrance is E.N.E, y miles
from Boar Island, and two miles to ihe westward of Red Island Harbour ; the east point
of tlip entrance is composed of low rugged rocks, off which is a sunken rock, at »he dis-
tance of a quarter of a mile. Near the head of the bay is tolerably good anchorage, and
plenty of wood and water.

King's Harbour lies round the west point of Wolf Bay, and lies in N.E. by E. three-
quarters of a mile ; before its mouth is a cluster of little islands. To sail in, keep the
east point of the islands on board, and steer N. by W. and North from the entrance of
the harbour, and anchor under the east shore in 9 fathoms.

Ha-Ha.— On the south side of the islands before King's Harbour, and north one mile
from Boar Island, is the entrance into the Ha-IIa, which lies in W.N.W. one mile, and is
about a quarter of a mile broad, with from 20 to 10 fathoms of water, and good ground
all over. Over the south point of the entrance into this harbour is a high green hill ; and
a cable's length and a half from the point is a sunken rock that always shows itself. Over
the head of the Ha-Ha, is liichartls'.i Head, mentioned as a mark for running upon Ilamea
Shoal.

About 4 miles to the westward of the Burgeo Isles, is the Great Barrysway Point,
which is low, white, and rocky ; and N.E. by E. half a league from this point is the west
entrance into the Great Barrysway, wherein are room and depth of water for small vessels.
Between the Burgeo Isles and the Great Barrysway Point, are several sunken rocks, some
of which are half a league from the shore.

CoNNOiRE Bay. — N.W. ^ N. 4 leagues from the Burgeo Isles, is the east point of the
Bay of Connoire : this point is so far remarkable that it rises with an easy ascent to a
moderate height, and much higher than the land within it : the west point of the bay is
low and flat, and to the westward of this are several small islands. The bay lies in N.E.
by N. about a league from the e;ist point to the middle head, which lies between the two
arms, and is half a league wide, with 14, 12, 10, and 8 fathoms, close to both shores,
good anchorage, and clear ground, but open to S.W. winds. The N.E. arm affords shelter
for small vessels from all winds. To sail in, keep nearest the starboard shore, and anchor
before a small cove on that side, near the head of the arm, in 3^ fathoms.

The Bay of Cutteau lies about two leagues to the westward of Connoire : its depth
will admit small vessels only. Round the west point of Cutteau is Cinq Serf, wherein are
a number of islands, which form several small snug harbours. Right off Cinq Serf, about
half a league from the shore, is a low rocky island, westward of which is the safest passage
into the largest harbour.

Four miles to the westward of the rocky island of Cinq Serf, is the harbour of Grand
Bruit, which is small and commodious ; and may be known by a very high remarkable
mountain over it, half a league inland, which is the highest land on all the coast : down
this mountain runs a considerable brook, which empties itself in a cascade into the har-
bour. Before the mouth of the harbour are several little islands, the largest of which is of
middling height, with three green hillocks on it. A little without this island is a round
rock, pretty high above water, called the Columbe of Great Bruit; and a quarter of a
mile to the southward of this rock, is a low rock : in the direct line between the low rock
and the rocky isles of Cinq Serf, half a league from the former, is a sunken rock, whereon
the sea does not break in fine weather. The safest passage into Grand Bruit is to the N.E.
of this rock, and of the islands lying before the harbour, between them and the three
islands (which are low, and lie under the shore) : and after you are to the northward of
the sunken rock above mentioned, there is no danger but what .shows itself. The harbour
extends N.N.E. half a mile, and is but a quarter of a mile wide in the broadest part; but
it is bold-to on both sides, and has a depth of from 4 to 7 fathoms.

To the westward of Grand Bruit, between it and Lh Poile Bay, lies the Bnj/ of Rotte,
wherein are a great many islands and sunken rocks. The southernmost is a remarkable
high round rock, called the Columbe of Rotte, which lies N.W. by W. 8| leagues from
the southernmost of the Burgeos. Between this island and Grand Bruit is a reef of

Island, in
idy's Cove
)assages in
tid in bad
my fear, j

E. 'i miles
: east point
It 'he dis-

orage,

and

y E. tliree-
, keep the
jntrance of

h one mile
nile, and is
)od ground
a hill ; and
self. Over
pon Ilamea

rw Point,
, is tlie west
nail vessels,
rocks, some

point of the
ascent to a
■ the bsiy is
lies in N.E.
een the two
)oth sliores,
fords shelter
and anchor

: its depth
wherein are

Serf, about
fest passage

It of Grand

remarkable

oast : down

to the har-

which is of

is a round

uarter of a

ie low rock

k, whereon

to the N.E.

the three

)rthward of

'he harbour

t part ; but

1/ of Rotte,
remarkable
jagues from
IS a reef of

LA POILE BAY. 69

rocks, some above, and some under water, but they do not lie to the southward of the
direct line between the islands. Within the islands of Rotte there is shelter for shipping.

ZiA POXLS SAY is large and spacious, and has several commodious harbours.
It is also the seat of a rising population, and there are now inhabitants in almost every
cove in this part of the coast. It may be known by the high land of Grand Bruit, which
is only five miles to the eastward of it ; and likewise by the land on the east side of the
bay, which rises in remarkably high craggy hills, rising from a table land of '200 or 300
feet high. About 1 J mile S.VV. from the east point lies Little Ireland, a small low island,
environed with sunken rocks, some of which are one-third of a mile otY: north, about
half a mile from Little Ireland, is a sunken rock that shows itself at low water, which is
the only danger in going into the bay, excepting such as lie very near the shore.

Two miles within the west point of the bay, and N. | W. 2 miles from Little Ireland,
is Tweeds or Great Harbour ; its south point is low, and it extends inward W.N.W.
one mile: it is about IJ cable's length wide in the narrowest part: and the anchorage
is near the head of the harbour, in 18 or 20 fathoms, clear ground, and sheltered frond
all winds. Half a mile to the northward of Great Harbour, is Little Harbour, the north
point of which, called Tooth Head, is the first high bluff head on the west side of the
bay : the harbour extends inward W.N.W. about a mile. In sailing in, give the south
point a small berth. You may anchor about half-way up the harbour, in 10 fathoms of
water.

Gally Boy Harbour lies on the east side of the bay, opposite Tooth Head; it is
small, snug, and convenient for ships bound to the westward. The north point is high
and sleep, with a white spot in the cliff. To sail in or out, keep the north side on board.
You must anchor so soon as you are within the inner south point, in 9 or 10 fathoms,
good ground, and sheltered from all winds. One mile to the northward of Gally Boy
Harbour, between two sandy coves on the east side of the bay, and nearly two cables'
length from the shore, is a sunken rock, that just uncovers at low water.

Broad Cove is about two miles to the northward of Tooth Head, on the same side of the
bay. In this there is good anchorage in 12 or 14 fathoms.

About two leagues up the bay, on the eastern side, is the N.E. Arm, which is a spacious,
safe, and commodious harbour. In sailing in, give the low sandy point on the S. E. side
a small berth, and anchor above it where convenient, in 10 fathoms of water, good holding-
ground, sheltered from all winds, and very convenient for wood and water.

"' Indian Harbour and De Plate lie just within the outer west point of La Poile Bay ;
but they are not fit for shipping.

Little Ireland bears from the southernmost of the Burgees N.W. by W. i W. fij
leagues ; and lies nearly 12 leagues to the eastward of Cape Ray.

From Little Ireland to Harbour la Coue, and La Moine Bay, the course is W.N.W. J W.
11 miles; between lies the bay of Garia, and several small coves, fit only for small
vessels ; before these there are several small islands, and sunken rocks lying along the
shore, but none of them lie without the above course. In bad weather, all the sunken
rocks discover themselves. The bay of Garia affords plenty of timber, large enough for
the building of shipping. A ridge here i uns into the country with three high bluffs on it,
the high range of Cape llay being visible over the intermediate country.

The S.W. point of the entrance into Harbour la Coue, called Rose Blanche Point,
(near to which are rocks above water,) is tolerably high, and the land near the shore over
Harbour la Coue and La Moine Bay is much higher than any other land in the vicinity :
by this they may be known. I^a Moine Bay extends inward N.E. | E. about 4 miles,
and is one-quarter of a mile broad in the narrowest part. Off the east point are some
small islands, and rocks above water. In sailing in, keep the west point on board, until
you have entered the bay; then edge over to the east shore, and run up to the head of
the bay, where you may anchor in 10 or 1 1 fathoms, good ground : here is plenty of wood
and water. To sail into Harbour la Coue, which lies at the west entrance into La Moine
Bay, steer in N.N.W. between a rock above water, in the mouth of the harbour, and the
west shore; so soon as you are within the rock, haul to the westward, into the harbour,
and anchor in 6 or 8 fathoms of water, and moor with a hawser on shore ; or you may
steer into the arm, which lies N.E. by £. from the harbour, and anchor in 20 fathoms^
sheltered from all winds.

POUT AUX BASQUE.

•('■

To the westward of Rose Blanclie Point, is the harbour of the same name ; it is small
and eniig, and the anchorage is in 9 fathoms of water.

Mull Face is a small cove two miles to the westward of Rose Blanche Point, wherein
is anchorage for small vessels in 4 fathoms. Off the west point of the cove are two small
islands, and several sunken rocks.

Seven miles to the westward of Rose Blanche Point are tlie Burnt Islands^ which lie
close under the shore, and are not to be distinguished from it; beliind these is shelter for
small vessels. On these islands are sunken rocks, some of which ore half a mile from
shore.

Ten miles to the westward of Rose Blanche Point, is Coney Baj/ and Otter Bay, both
of which are rendered difficult of access by several sunken rocks without the passage.

W.N.W. I W. 4 leagues from Rose Blanche Point are the Isles mix Morte, or Dead
Islands, which lie close under the shore ; in the passage between them and the main is
good anchorage for shipping in 6 or 8 fathoms, sheltered from all winds ; but it is very
dangerous of access to strangers, as there are several sunken rocks in both the east and
west entrances. "

PORT AUX BASQUE.— From the Isles aux Morte to Port aux Basque, the course
and distance are W.N.W. about 4 miles; between lie several small islands close under
the shore, and there are sunken rocks, some of which are half a mile from the shore.
Port aux Bas(jue is a small commodious harbour, which lies about 2^ leagues to the
eastward of Cape Kay. To fall in with it, bring the Sugar-Loaf over Cape Ray to bear
N.N.W. J W., or the West end of the Table Mountain N.N.W. Steer in for the land
with either of these marks, and you will fall directly in with the harbour : the S.W.
point, called Point Blanche, is of a moderate height, and white; but the N.E. point is
low and flat, and has, close to it, a black rock above water. In order to avoid the outer
shoal, on which are three fathoms, and which lies E.S.E, three-quarters of a mile from
Point Blanche, keep the said point on board, and bring the flag-staff which is on the hill
over the west side of the head of the harbour, on with the S.W. point of Road Island ;
that direction will lead you in the middle of the channel, between the east and west
rocks, the former of which always show themselves, and which you leave on your star-
board hand : continue this course up to Road Island, and keep the west point on board,
in order to avoid the Frying-pan Rock, which stretches out from a cove on the west
shore, opposite the island ; and, so soon as you are above the island, haul to the E.N.E.
and anchor between it and Harbour Island, where you please, in 9 or 10 fathoms, good
ground, and sheltered from all winds : this is called the Road or Outer Harbour, and
is the only anchoring-place for men-of-war, but small ships always lie up in the Inner
Harbour. To sail into it, run in between the west shore and the S.W. end of Harbour
Island, and anchor behind the said island, in 3 or 4 fathoms. In some parts of this
harbour ships can lay their broadside no near to the shore as to reach it with a plank.
This place has been frequented by fishermen for many years.*

Grand Bay lies about two miles to the westward of Port aux Basque ; there are several
small islands and rocks in and before it, the outermost of which are not above a quarter
of a mile from the shore, on which the sea generally breaks : it is fit for small vessels only.

From Port aux Basque to Point Enrag^e, the bearing and distance are W.N.W. about
a league, and thence to Cape Ray N.N.W. nearly 1^ league. Off Point Enragee, which
is low, and to the eastward of it, are some sunken rocks a mile from the shore, on which
the sea breaks.

CAPS XlAir is the S.W. extremity of Newfoundland, situated in lat. 47° 37', and
long. 59** 17' : the land of the cape is very remarkable ; near the shore it is low, but three
miles inland is a very high Table Mountain, which rises almost perpendicular from the
low land, and appears to be quite flat at the top, excepting a small hillock on 'he S.W.

♦ The Lady Sherbrook, Gambles, master, sailed from Londonderry, Ireland, in June, 1831, with
upwards of 300 persons on board. After passing the Banks of Newfoundland, nothing but thick
fogs were met with until July 19, when they cleared off about midnight, and breakers were seen
ahead. The ship was immediately hove in stays, but it was of no use ; for, on wearing round, she
titruck on Morte Island, near Port aux Basque, The passengers all crowded on deck ; the scene was
most distressing ; shrieks and cries rent the air. In less than an hour the vessel was full of water.
The unhappy result was, that of the whole none were saved excepting the captain, mate, three men,
one woman, and one child, who were picked up from the sea, and carried to Sydney in Breton
Island. We give this as another serious caution to those approaching.

CAPE RAY TO CAPE NORMAN.

it is small

it, wherein
two small

, which lie
shelter for
mile from

Bay, both

sage.

e, or Dead
the main is
ul it is very
:ke east and

, the course
close under
I the shore.
2;ues to the
llay to bear
or the land
: the S.W.
f.E. point is
id the outer
a mile from
I on the hill
oad Island ;
ist and west
in your star-
nl on board,
on the west
the E.N.E.
thorns, good
arbour, and
n the Inner
of Harbour
arts of this
th a plank.

are several
|ve a quarter
vessels only.

IN.W. about
[agee, which
re, on which

^7° 37', and
jw, but three
lar from the
m 'he S.W.

le, 1831, with
Ing but thick
Vs were seen

l)g round, she
ihe scene was

full of water.

i, three men,

Ley in Breton

point of it. This land may be seen, in clear weather, from the distance of 16 or 18 leagues.
Close to the foot of the Table Mountain, between it and the point of the cape,' is a high
round hill, resembling a sugar-loaf, (called the Suffur-Lonfof Cape Ray,) whose^summit is
a little lower than the Table Mountain ; and to the nortliward of this hill, under^the Table
Mountain, are two other hills, resembling sugar-loaves, which are not so high as the
former ; one or other of these sugar-loaf hills are, from all points of view, seen detached
from the Table Mountain.

Cape Ray, on entering Ihe Gulf.

There is a sandj/ bat/ between Cape Ray and Point Enragde, wherein ships may 'anchor
with the winds from N.N.W. to East, but they must be caulio;:s that they be not surprised
with the S.W. winds, which blow directly in, and cause a great sea. The ground is not
the best for holding, being fine sand. Toward the east side of this bay is a small ledge of
rocks, one mile from shore, on which the sea does not break in fine weather. The best
place for large ships to anchor in is, to bring the point of the cape N.W., and the high
white sand-hill in the bottom of the bay N.E., in 10 fathoms of water. Small vessels rnay
lie farther in. Be careful not to run so far to the eastward, as to brhig'^the end of the
Table Mountain on with the sand-hill in the bottom of the bay, by which means the ledge
of rocks before mentioned will be avoided.

N.W. ^ W., nearly one mile from the point of the cape, is a small ledge of rocks whereon
the sea always breaks ; and, one mile to the northward of the cape, close under the land,
is a low rocky island ; there is a channel between the ledge and the cape, also between it
and the island, with 14 or 15 fathoms of water ; but the tides, which run here with great
rapidity, render it unsafe to shipping.

The soundings under 100 fathoms do not extend above a league from the land to the
southward and eastward of the cape, nor to the westward and northward of it, except on a
bank which lies off Port aux Basque, between 2 and 3 leagues from the land, whereon are
from 70 to 100 fathoms, good fishing groutid. S.E. i S. 8 leagues from Port aux Basque,
in the latitude of 47° 14', is a bank, whereon are 70 fathoms.

THE TIDES. — Between Cape Chapeau Rouge and Cape Ray, in all the bays, &c., the
tide generally flows till 9 o'clock, on fulj and change, and its perpendicular rise is about 7
or 8 feet on springs : but it must be observed, that the tides are every where greatly influ-
enced by the winds and weather. On the coast, between Cape Chapeau Rouge and St.
Pierre, the stream sets generally to the S.W. On the south side of Fortune Bay it sets to
the eastward, and on the north side to the westward. Between Cape La Hune and Cape
Ray, the flood sets to the westward in the offing, very irregularly, but generally 2 or 3
hours after it is high water by the shore. The tide or current is inconsiderable, excepting
near Cape Ray, where it is strong, and at times sets quite contrary to what might be
expected from the common course of the tides, and much stronger at one time than at
another : these irregularities seem to depend chiefly on the winds. See the Remarks on
Currents, &c., pages 1 to 8.

The western COAST of NEWFOUNDLAND, from CAPE

RAY TO CAPE NORMAN.

From Cape Ray to Cape Anguille, the course and distance are N. J E. nearly 6 leagues.
Cape Anguille is the northernmost point of land you can see, after passing to the westward
of Qape Ray ; it is high table land, covered with wood, in the country over it. Between
the high land- of the two capes the land is low, and the shore forms a bay, wherein are the
great and little Rivers of Cod Roy : the northernmost is the great rivei-; which is a large

WESTERN COAST OF NEWFOUNDLAND,

« ;

l,i

harbour, formed by a long spit of sand across the mouth of the river. At low water most
of it is dry, with the exception of the channel of the river, which has a depth of 10 or 12
feet. The shore may be approached between the two capes to half a league, there being no
danger so far off.*

The island of Cod Roy lies 1 i or 2 miles to the southward of Cape Anguille, close under
the high land ; it is a low, flat, green island, of nearly two miles in compass, in the form
of a horse-shoe, forming, between it and the main, a small snug bar-haibour for vessels
of 10 or 12 feet draught ; the safest entrance to it is from the southward.

South-eastward from the island is Cod Roy Road, wherein is very good anchorage for
shipping, in 8, 7, or 6 fathoms, on a clay bottom. With the south point of the island
bearing about VV.N.W., and the point of the beach on the inside of the island, at the south
entrance into the harbour, on with a point on the main to the northward of the island, you
will lie in 7 fathoms, and nearly half a mile from the shore ; one league to the southward
of Cod Koy Island is a high bluff point, called Stormy Point, off which a shoal stretches
full half a mile; this point covers the road from the S.S.E. winds, and there is good
anchorage all along the shore, between it and the island.

ST. G-XiORGS'S TtlL'V*— Front Cape Anguille to Cape St. George, the course and
distance are N.N.E. ^ E. 11 leagues; these two capes form the bay of St. George, which
extends inward E.N. E. 18 leagues from the former, and E.S.E. 11 leagues from the latter.
It is a fine bay, rapidly narrowing towards the head, with two straight shores, each of
which affords good anchorage. The only harbour is just at the head, formed by the pro-
jection of a narrow spit of sand; and even that seems rapidly filling up with sand, as it is
only near the entrance there is water enough for vessels, while the rest of the basin is nearly
dry at low water, and is at no place deep enough for any thing but a punt. On these low
sandy shores, at the head of the bay, the tide, though not great, becomes very apparent,
rising and falling from 5 to 8 feet. The low spit of sand forming the harbour, is in some
places covered with a stunted vegetation of fir trees. Just at the point, however, these are
cleared away, and there is a collection of wooden houses scattered about, containing a
transitory population of 500 or 600.

On the north side of the bay, before the isthmus of Port-au-Port, is good anchorage ior'
7 or 8 fathoms, with northerly winds : from off this place a fishing-bank stretches tv/0-
thirds across the bay, with from 9 to 19 fathoms of water on it, daric sandy bottom. /

CAPE ST. GEORGE lies in latitude 48o 28' 54', long. 59° 14' 34" : it may be readily
known, not only by its being the north point of the Bay of St. George, but also by the
steep cliffs, of a light yellow limestone, on the north part of it, which rise perpendicularly
from the sea to a considerable height, and by Red Island, which lies 5 miles to the north-
ward of the cape, and half a mile from the shore : this island is about 1^ mile in length,
and of a middling height : the steep cliffs around it are of a reddish colour : there is
anchorage with off-shore winds under the N.E. end of the island, before a sandy cove on
the main, which lies just to the northward of the steep cliffs, in 12 or 14 fathoms.

From Red Island to Long Point, at the entrance into the bay of Port-au-Poit, the
bearing and distance are E.N.E. i E. 7 leagues ; from Red Island to Tweed Island, in the
mouth of the Bay of Islands, E.N.E. 16 leagues: from Red Island to Cape St. Gregory,
N.E. by E. I E. 20 leagues; and from Red Island to Point Rich, which is the north point
of Ingornachoix Bay, N.E. f E. 49 leagues.

PORT-AV-POZIT. — The land between Red Island and the entrancf into Port-
au-Port is rather low, with sandy beaches, except one remarkable high hillock, called

• " The fishery along the whole western and north-eastern coasts of Newfoundland, from Cape Ray
round the north point, to Cape St. John, is claimed exclusively by the French : the words of the
treaty admit of some dispute ; but it is provided that, though the property of the land is vested in the
British crown, neither nation shall make permanent settlements, and the French shall have the
right of drying fish on any part of the coast they choose. The provision for non-settlement is prac-
tically disregarded by both parties, as the English settle for their own advantage, and the French
connive at, or encourage their doing so, on condition that they take care of their stores and fishing
establishments. They also allow the English settlers to fish within the bays. There is, however,
no law nor authority, nor means of establishing any, along this coast; every man depending on his
own strength to protect himself. A man-of-war of both nations, goes round once a year, to prevent

5reat disturbances ; but, to the honour of the settlers be it said, there are none to prevent." —
ukes^ Excursions in Newfoundland, vol. i. p. 120.

FROM CAPE UAY TO CAPK NORMAN.

Round Head, close to the shore, nbout 3 leagues to the K.N.R. of (ted Island : but, up
ill the country, over I'ort-au-Porf, are high lands ; and, if you are 3 or 4 leagues off at sea,
you cannot discern the Lone; Point of land which forms the bay, and which is covered
with wood ; this bay is capacioiis, being above 5 miles broad at the entrance, and 4 leagues
deep, lying-in to the south and south-west, with good anchorage in most purls nf it.

Lorif^ Point is the west point of the bay ; it is low and rocky, and a \ei\^e of rocks
extends from it K.N.E. nearly a mile. SIC. by E. J E. 4 miles from Long F'oint, and half
a league from the east shore, lies Fo.r hlniui, which is small, but of middlinjj heitjht ;
from the north end of this a shoal stretches nearly 2 miles to N.N.K., called Fox T.iil ;
and, nearly in the niidille of the bay, between I'ox Ishiiid and the west shore, lies the
Middle Ground, on one place of wiiich, near tiie S.W. end, there are not above il or 4
feet of water. From the head of the bay, projecting out into the middle nf it, is a low
point, called Middle Point, off which, extending 'J miles N.F. by N., is a shoal spit, part
of which dries at low water: this middle ])oint divides the bay into two parts, called East
and West Bays. From the head of the Fast liay, over to the Bay of St. George, the
distance is a large quarter of a mile : this isthmus is very low, and on the east side of it is
a tolerably high mountain, rising directly from the isthmus, and flat at top ; on the north
side of this, and about 5 miles from the isthmus, is a conspicuous valley, or hollow, here-
after to be used as a mark. N.E. by E. i E. above two leagues from Long Point, and half
a league from the shore, lies Shag Island, which appears at a distance like a hi<:;h rock, and
is easily to be distinguished from the main : and VV.N.W. about a league from it, lies the
middle of Long Ledge, which is a narrow ledge of rocks stretching E.N.E. and W.S.VV.
stbout 4 miles ; the eastern part of them is above water, and the channel into the bay of
Port-au-Fort, between the west end of this ledge and the rtef which stretches off from the
west point of the bay, is a league wide.

In sailing in, if coming from the S.W., advance no nearer to the Long Point of the bay
than IJ mile, until you have brought the valley, in the side of the mountain before men-
tioned, (on the east side of the isthmus,) over the east end of Fox Island, or to the eastward
V of it, which will then bear south, a little easterly; you will then be clear of the Long Point
\Reef, and may haul into the bay with safety ; but, if coming from the N.E. without the
"Long Ledge, or turning into the bay, in order to keep clear of the S.W. end of Long
I^dge, bring the isthmus, or the foot of the mountain, (which is on the east side of the
istftmus,) open to the westward of Fox Island, nearly twice the breadth of the island, and
it will lead you into the bay clear of Long Ledge : and when Shag Island is brought on
vviUi the foot of the high land on the south side of Coal River, bearing then E. | S. you
will be within the Long Ledge ; there is also a safe passage into the bay, between the Long
Ledge and the main, on either side of Shag Island, taking care to avoid a small shoal, of
C'J fathoms, which lies W. by N. one mile from die island.

To sail up into the West But/ and Head Harbour, keep the western shore on board :
this shore is bold-to. In turning between it and the Middle Ground, stand no nearer to
the Middle than into 8 fathoms : but you may stand to the spit of the Middle Point into
6 or 5 fathoms. The anchorage in West Bay is in about 8 fathoms, and in Head Harbour,
in about 5 fathoms. The West lioad lies before a high stone beach, about '2 miles south-
westward from Long Point, where you may lie very secure from westerly and N.W. winds,
in 10 or 12 fathoms of water.

The East Road lies between Fox Island and the east shore : to sail up to it, you
should keep the high bluff head, which is about a league to the E.N.E. of the island,
bearing to the southward of S.E. by E. ^ E. until the isthmus is brought to the eastward
of Fox Island ; you will then be within the shoal called the Fox's Tail, and may haul to
the southward, and anchor any where between the island and the main, in from 10 to 18
fathoms.

To sail up the East Bay, pass between the island and the east shore, and after you are
above the island, come no nearer to the main than half a mile, until you are abreast of a
bluff point above the island, called Road Point, just above which is the best anchorage with
N.E. winds, in about 12 fathoms of water; and to sail up the East Bay, between the
Middle Ground and the Fox Tail, bring the said bluff point on with the S.W. point of Fox
Island ; this mark will lead you up in the fair way between die two shoals ; give the island
a berth, and anchor as before, in from 8 to 12 fathoms of water.

BAY of XSIiAMDSi — From the Long Point at the entrance of Porl-au-Pori to
the Bay of Islands, the bearing and distance are N.E. by E. B leagues. Be careful to

Wi:

74 DONNE BAV.

*void the Long Ledge : the land between \<i of considerable height, rising in craggy barren
^ills, directly from the shore. The Bay of Isbnds may be known by tlie many islands in
*he mouth of it, particularly the three named Guernsey Island, Tweed Island, and Pearl
Island, which are nearly of equal height with the land on the main. If you are bound for
iMrk or Vurk Harbours, which lie on the S.VV. side of the bay, and are coming from the
southward, run in between Guernsey Island and the South Head, both of which are
bold-to ; but with southerly and S.W. winds approach not too near the South Head, lest
calms and sudden trusts of wind should proceed from the high land, under which you can-
,H j; not anchor with safety. There are several channels formed by the different islands, through

which you may sail in or out of the bay, tliere being no danger but what sliows itself,
excepting a small ledge of rocks, which lie half a mile noith- east ward from the north Shag
Rock, and in a line with the two Shag llocks in one. The safest passage into this bay
from the northward, is between the two Shag Rocks, and then between Tweed Island and
Pearl Island.

From Guernsey Island to Tortoise Head, which is the north point of York Harbour, and
the S.B. point of Lark Haibour, the course and distance are S. by W. ^ W. 5 miles ; Lark
Harbour extends inward VV.S.W. nearly 2 miles, and is one-third of a mile broad in the
entrance, which is the narrowest part: in sailing into it with a large ship, keep the huboard
shore on board, and anchor with a low point on the starboard side, bearing W.N.W.,
N.N.W., or N.N.E., and you will ride securely from all winds.

From Tortoise Head into York Harbour, the course and distance are W.S.W. nearly a
league ; there is good turning room between the Head and Governor s Island, which lies
before the harbour ; but you must be cautious to avoid a shoal which spits off from a low
beach point on the west end of Governor's Island, called Sword Point ; tliere is also a
shoal which spits off from the next point of Governor's Island, which must also be avoided :
Tortoise Head just touching Sword Point will lead clear of it; in sailing in, give Sword
Point a berth, passing which, the best anchoring ground is in 10 fathoms, along the sandy
beach on the main, with Tortoise Head open of Sword Point: westerly and S.VV. winds
blow here with great violence.

Harbour Island lies at the entrance of Humber Sound, and S. by E. | E. 7 miles from
Guernsey Island : at its S.VV. point is lf'o«d'.s Harbour, which is unfit for shipping.
Humber Sound is about 17 miles long, and the shores are rocky and wooded, and has some
few settlers ; at the head of it, at the mouth of the river, is only 8 feet water, muddy
bottom. The river Humber is so rapid in some places, for about 4 leagues up, to a lake,"
that it is with great difficulty that even a boat can be gotten up against it. Tlie banks of
this river are well clothed with limber.

The North and South Arms are long inlets, with very deep water up to their heads. On
the east side of Eagle Island, between the north and south arms, is anchorage in 8, 10, or
12 fathoms of water. Under the north side of Harbour Island, is good anchorage with
S.W. winds; and opposite to the S.E. end of Harbour Island, on the south side of the
bay, is Frenchman's Cove, wherein is good anchorage in from 20 to 12 fathoms.

From Guernsey Island to Boniie Bay the course is N.E. J E. 5 leagues, to Cape St.
Gregory, and thence E.N.R. ^ E. 5 leagues to the entrance of Bonne Bay. The latid near
the shore from the north Shag Rock to Cape St. Gregory is low, along which lie sunken
rocks, a quarter of a mile from the shore ; but a very little way inland it rises into a moun-
tain, terminating at top in round hills.

Cape St. Gregory is high, and between it and Bonne Bay the land rises directly from
the sea-shore to a considerable height.

BONNE BAIT may be known, at the distance of 4 or 5 leagues, by the land about
it; all that on the S.W. side of the bay being very high and hilly, and that on the N.E.
side, and thence along the sea-coast to the northward, being low and flat ; but, at about
one league inland, is a range of mountains, which run parallel with the sea-coast. Over
the south side of the bay is a very high mountain, terminating at top in a remarkable round
hill. This bay extends inward E.S.E. nearly 2 leagues, then branches into two arms, one
of which runs into the southward, and the other to the eastward : the southern arm affords
the best anchorage; small vessels must anchor just above a low woody point at the entrance
into this arm, on the starboard side, before a sandy beach, in 8 or 10 fathoms of water,
about a cable's length from the shore; there is no other anchorage in less than 80' or 40
fathoms, excepting at the head of the arm, where there are from 23 to 20 fathoms of water.
In sailing into the East Arm, keep the starboard shore on board ; and, short round a point

ggy barren
r islands in

and Pearl
; bound for
iig from the

whicli are

llea'l, lest
cli you C.U1-
ids, tlirouRh
ihowa itself,

nortii Sliag
nto Ibis bay
1 [stand and

larbour, and
miles ; Lark
broad in the
the laiboard
»g W.N.W.,

.VV. nearly a
d, which lies
[T from a low
ere is also a
) be avoided :
I, give Sword
)ng the sandy
1 S.W. winds

7 miles from
for shipping,
and has some
vater, muddy
up, to a lake,
riie banks of

heads. On
e in 8, 10, or
chorage with
ih side of the
ns.

to Cape St.
'he land near
:h lie sunken
into a moun-

directly from

he land about
on the N.E.
I but, at about
-coast. Over
irkable round
vo arms, one
[n arm affords
It the entrance
Ims of water,
Jlhan30or40
loms of water,
round a point

IXOOUNACHOIX llAY.

at the entrance, will be found a small cove, v>'\i\\ good anchorage in 17 or 20 fathoms, but
you must moor to the shore. There is a snug cove also within the North f'oint, with
anchor.igt! in G or 7 fathoms of water. In sailir)g in or out of Bonne Hay, with S.W. winds,
come not near thf weather shore, lest you should happen to be becalmed, or should meet
with heavy gusts of wind, as the depth of water is too great to admit of your anchoring.

Ten miles to the northward of Bonne Bay is Martin Poi ., pretty high and while, off
which, about three quarters of a mile, is a small ledge of rocks, whereon the sea breaks.
hroom Point is low and white, and lies about a league to the northward of Martin Point;
about half a niile W.S.VV. from it, lies a sunken rock that seldom shows itself: on the north
side of Broom Point lies the Bay of St. I'aul, wherein vessels may anchor with otf-shore
winds, but it is quite exposed to the sea-winds.

Cow Head lies about one league to the northward of the Bay of Sf. Paul: this is a
promontory, whicli has the appearance of an island, it being joined to the main only by a
very low and narrow neck of land : nbout tliree-quarters of a mile off this head lies Steering
Island, which is low and rocky, and is the only island on the coast between the Bay of
Islands and Point Rich. It is considered as one of the best .stations on the coast for the
fishery, and the environs are very fertile and productive. Cow Cove lies on the south side
of Cow Head, and ships may lie there in from 7 to 10 fathoms, sheltered from northerly
and easterly winds. S/iallow liay lies on the north side of Cow Head, and has \v;iier
sufficient for small vessels ; at the N.E. side of the entrance is a cluster of rocky islands,
extending E.N.K. and W.S.W., and at the S.W, side are two sunken rocks close to each
other, which generally show themselves ; they lie a cable's length from the shore, and there
is a channel into the bay on either side of them. Steering Island lies right before this bay,
which you may pass on either side, but come not too near its N.E end, as there are some
sunken rocks extending from it.

ZNOORNACKOXX BAY — From Cow Head to Point Rich is 17. J leagues in
an E.N.E. ^ E. [iV.A'.] direction. Point liich is the northern point of the limj of Ingor-
nachoix. From Shallow Bay to the southern point of Ingornachoix Bay the coast is nearly
in a straight line, there being all the way neither creek nor cove, where a vessel can find
shelter from the sea winds, although there are a few places where they might anchor occa-
sionally with land winds. About 6 leagues from Steering Island there is a hill, standing
half a mile inland, which is commonly called Portland Hill, probably because it resembles
• Portland Bill in the English Channel, and alters not its appearance in whatever point of
view it is taken.

Port Saunders and Haivkes Harbour are situated within, and to the eastward of Ingor-
nachoix Bay; at the entrance lies Keppel Island, which, at a distance, will not easily be
distinguished from the main land ; there is a passage on both sides of the island. '

To sail into Port Saunders there is no impediment or danger ; you will leave Keppel
Island on your starboard side, and when you get about half a mile within the entrance, you
can anchor in 12 or 14 fathoms water; but if you are intending to run up to the head of
the harbour, you must keep the larboard shore on board, in order to avoid a ledge of rocks,
which lies near the mid-channel ; this is considered to be the best harbour for vessels that
are bound to the southward.

Hawkes IIabbour, — To enter this harbour, vessels commonly go to the southward of
Kepptl Island: the starboard shore is shoal, and has a sand-bank, which stretches along
the land, and runs out two-thirds of the passage over, great part of which dries at low water;
your course in will be E.S.E., keeping nearer to Keppel Island than to the main, until the
eastern end of the island, which is a low stony beach, bears N.E. by N., or N.N.E. ; then
steer S.S.E. i E. for a small island you will see, situated further up the harbour ; keeping
the larboard shore well on board, run direct for this i.sland, and when you have brought
the point at the south entrance of the harbour to bear N.N.E. ^ N., and are at the S.S.E.
point of a bay on the starboard side of the harbour, you will then be beyond the shoal
ground, and may anchor in 12 fathoms water; or else run within half a mile of the small
island, and anchor there, which will be more convenient for both wood and water. This
is the best harbour for ships bound to the northward. The land round about these harbours
is generally low, and covered with wood : you may occasionally anchor outside, in the Bay
of Ingornachoix, according as you find the prevailing winds.

POINT RICH is in latitude SO* 41' 47" N., and longitude 57° 24' 14" W.; it is the
south-western point of a peninsula, which is almost surrounded by the sea, being every

UAY 01 ST. JOHN'.

where of modernte Iteight, und projcctiiig further to scitward than nny other land on ihii side
(it'NcvvfuuiidhuKi, the const from thence, each way, takitiK nn inward direction.

I'onr AU Ciiorx — Uo»indinR Point Uich, on its northern side, you will meet with Port
!ui Choix, small, Init yel ciipuble of :»<linitting a shin of hurthen, moirini; head and stern ;
to sail in you shniild kcit-p the starboard shore on board, and anchor just above a small
island lying in the middle of the haibour. In this place, and also in lioul Cove, which
lies a little to the noith-eastward, there are several stages and places for drying lish.

()i I) I*oi;t av Ciioix lies to the eastward of Moat Cove; it is a small but safe harbour,
having at its entrance an island calleil Haihour hluud, and on its western side some rocks,
both above and under water : there is also another islatnl lying F''.N.I'",. J N., distant nearly
a mile froni llurbour Island, about which are several rocks, some of which stretch out
towards Harbour Island, and render the passage very narrow between them; there are
4, 5, G, and 7 fathoms water bctwetn Sovofie hlurifl and the main, and 4 and 5 fathoms
between Savage Islund Hocks and Harbour Island; and nearly the same di'pth betveen
Harbour Island and the western shore. To sail into Old I'ort an ('lioix, on the west»'rn
side of Harbour Island, you must keep the island close on board; but to go in on the
eastern side of the island, give ilio nortli-oastern point of the i.dand a berth, and having well
entered, you may anchor any where on the larboard side of the harbour, only avoiding the
starboard side, for a shoal of sand and mud runs all along it.

BAY of ST. JOHMa— This is an open and extensive bay, bounded by Puini
Rich to the southward, and I'obit Ftrollc to the northward, having several islands within
it, and some'snnken rocks; the larjiest of these islands is St. John's, about 2i miles in
length, and ij broad ; this lies K N.K. distant 8], miles from Point Rich; on its south-
western side is a small haibour, well calculated for the cod fishery, but too much exposed
for bhipping, as south-westerly winds commonly drive in a heavy sea. On the south-
eastern, or inner side of the island, and between it and One lleiid Island, vessels may lie
much more secure, in 14 or 10 fathoms water, and sheltered from most winds; and this is
considered to be the only safe anchoraj^e in the whole bay. Wt;sl fiom St. John's Island
one large mile, is h'Int Island, having a rock above water at its southern end ; the channel
between St. John's and Flat Island has from 13 to 25 fathoms in it, and they are both
l)old-to : the Twin hUtmh lie N.K. by N. from Flat Island distant one league, and have
no danger about them. To the westward of the Twins are several scattered rocks above
water, named the liai/ hhinds ; they have deep water around them, but no anchorage.
The land at the bottom of the bay is very high, and there is the little river of Castors, the
entrance to which is dangerous and shallow, therefore seldom frequented. Vtom the
northern point of this bay a rocky shoal extends all the way to Point I'erolle, stretching
out 24 miles from the shore.

Point Fkrolle lies N.E. by E. from Point Rich, distant 22 miles; it is of moderate
height, and joined to the main by a neck of land, which divides the Hay of St. John's
from New Ferolle Bai/, making it appear like an island when seen from a distance; its
northern shore is bold-to, and this part of the coast will easily be known by the adjacent
table land of St. John's, the west end of which mountain lies from the middle of Ferolle
Point S. by W., and its eastern end S.K. | S.

Nr.w Fki;oi.m: Hay is a small cove lying to the eastward of the point, and is quite flat
all over, there being not more than 'J and 3 fathoms at any part ; it is quite open to the
northerly winds, has a stage on each side of it, with plenty of room for others.

St. Margaret's Bay is large, and has several islands within it, also various inlets or coves,
aH'ording good anchorage, particularly on its western side, which is the best situation for
ships, being most clear of danger, and convenient for wooding and watering ; on its banks
are spruce and tir trees in plenty, and many rivulets of fresh water. Dog Island is to the
eastward of Point Ferolle full three miles, and only divided from the main at high water;
it is higher than any land near it, which gives it the appearance, when seen from the east-
ward, of an island situated at some distance from the main.

Old Ferolle. — To the eastward of Dog Island about five miles is Ferolle Island. This
island lies parallel to the shore, and forms the harbour of Old Ferolle, which is very good
and safe : the best entrance to it is at the S.W. end of the island, passing to the southward
of a small island in the entrance, which is bold-to : as soon as you are within it, haul up
E.N.E. and anchor under the S.W. end of Ferolle Island, in 8 or 9 fathoms, good ground,
quite land-locked. There is also good anchorage any where along the inside of the island.

}n this aiile

•t with Port
and stern ;
ivf !i small
'ove, which
ii^ii.

ife harboiii,
some rockH,
slant nearly

stretch out

; there arc
d 5 fathuniH
itl» het>'een

llie westtrn
in on the

having well
avoiding the

id by Point
lands within
2^ miles in
on its suuth-
uch exposed
In the south-
isels may lie
; and this is
ohn's Island
the channel
hey are both
je, and have
rocks above
anchorage.
iiiiors, the
From the
, stretching

of moderate

}f St. Johns

islance ; its

le adjacent

of FeroUe

is quite flat
open to the

>ts or coves,
situation for
)n its banks
nd is to the
ligh water ;
^m the east-

\land. This

very good

southward

lit, haul up

lod ground,

the island,

HAYS OF ST. OKNEVIEVE AND ST. IIAUIU

and a good channel up to the N.K. end thereof. There arc some liille islands lying at the
N.K. end of Ferolle Island, and on the outside arc some ledges of rocks a small distance ofT.

HAY or ST. (5KNRVI F.VE. — From the north end of Fcrulle hiand to St. Genevieve
//«•«</ the course is 10. N.K. 41 miles, and thence tn ihc west end of Currant Island it is
norlli-enslward about three miles. There are sov( il small islands is\i\^ in and btfore this
bay, only two of wliich aro of any considerable ( xient. Currant Is/and is tho northern-
most of tlic two, and tho lartjost ; it is of a moderate liei;?ht, and when you arc to the
K.N.F. of it, the western point wdl appear bluff, but not hinh ; and whet) you are \o the
westwaril of it, it appe.irs (lit and white. The other, called (loosehrnj Island, lies nearly
a mile to the southward of il, and its west point bears from the west point of Currant Island
S S.W. i W. nearly n mile. Ciooseberry Island has a cioss on its S.W. end, from which
poini stffttilies out a le(li,'e of rocks, nearly half a mile to the southward ; there is also a
shoal about half a mile to the W.S. \V. t'rom the S.W. point of ("uriant Ishind. The best
tliaiiiiel into this bay is to the southward of these islands, between the rocks which stretch
otr lliein and a small island lying S.S.W. from tlieni, (which island lies near the south
.shore ;) in this channel, which is very narrow, tin re are not less than 5 fathoms at low
water, and the course in is K. by S. southerly, until you come the length of the afore-
mentioned island, passing which you should haul to the southward, and bring St. (Jenevieve
liead between the small island and the main, in order to avoid the middle bank. You
may either anchor behind the small island in 5 or G fithoins water, or proceed farther, with
the said mark on, until the S.W. arm is open, and anchor in the middle of the bay, in 7 or
H fathoms water. Here are wood and water to be had. There is tolerable good anchoring
in most parts (.f tho bay ; but die snugucst place is the S.W, arm ; the entrance to it is
narrow, and has only I fathoms at low water. In coming into the bay, if you get out of
the channel on either .siile, you will shoalen your water immediately to 3 or 2 fatlioms.

DAY OF ST. HAlUUv— From the west end of Currant Island to St. Barbe Point it
is E.by N. 21 miles, and from St. Harbe Point to Anchor Point it is N.N.K. nearly Ifj, mile.
Iletween ihem lies the linif of St. Barhe ; ii runs in S. by K. about two miles from Anchor
Point. To sail in, give Anchor Point, and all the east side of the bay, a good berth, to
avoid the sunken rocks which lie along that shore : you must be well in before you can
discover the entiance into the harbour, which is but narrow ; then steer south, keeping in
the middle of the channel, and anchor as soon as you are within the two points, in a small
cove, on the west side, in 5 fathoms water, on sand and mud, quiie land-locked. Near this
place branch out two arms or rivers, one called the South, and the other the East River;
the latter has 3 fathoms a good way up, but the former is shoal. Between the S.W. point of
the bay and west point of the harbour is a cove, wherein are sunken rocks, which lie a little
without the line of the two points : in the open bay are 7, 8, or 9 faUionis ; but the N.W.
winds cause a heavy sea to fall in here, which renders it unsafe.

From Anchor Point to the extremity of the Seal Islands, the course is N.E. i E. one
league ; off Anchor Point a ledge stretches itself W. by S. about one-third of a mile ; there
are no other dangers between it and the Seal Islands but what lie very near the shore.

The Seal [glands are white and rocky, and must not be approached but with care on
their north and western sides, because there are some sunken rocks near them.

From the N.W. Seal Island to the N.W. extremity of Flower Ledge, it is N.N.E. near
two miles; part of this ledge appears at low water, and there are 10 fathoms close on its
ofl-side.

MiST.\KEN CovF,. — From the north part of Flower Ledge to Grenville Ledge, it is about
1 \ mile E. by S., and Grenville Ledge lies about two-thirds of a mile W. by N. from the
eastern point of Mistaken Cove, between which and Seal Islands lie also Nameless Cove
and Flower Cove, neither of v ih is fit for ships.

Savage Cove. — Close to the eastward of Mistaken Cove is Savage Cove, which has a
little island in its entrance, and is only fit for small vessels and boats.

Savdt/ Bay lies two miles eastward from Savage Cove, where small vessels may ride in
3 or 4 fathoms water, with the winds from E. to S.W.

About E.N.E. 6 large miles from Sandy Bay is Green Island ; between tliem, at three
miles distance, W. ^ S. from Green Island, is the north extremity of l^ouhle Ledge, which
extends nearly two-thirds of a mile from the shore, and has only 8 or 9 feet water on it.

Green Inland lies about three- fourths of a mile from the main, is two-thirds of a mile in

STUAIT OF BELLE ISLE

;l:r

length, very low and narrow, and agreeable in colour to the name it bears : from the east
end of it a ledge of rocks extends three-fourths of a mile to the eastward, on which the sea
breaks in bad weather. There are 4 or 5 fathoms water in the channel between the island
and the main, where ships may anchor if necessary. To go in from the westward, keep
the island close on board for the deepest water, which is 4 fathoms ; and going in from the
eastward, keep the main on board.

Between Green Island and Ferolle, there are some dangerous ledges, which render it
desirable to avoid tiiis side of the Strait of Belle Isle at night or in thick weather ; the
opposite side is much more free from danger, and has several good roadsteaus.

From Green Island to Booths Head it is E. ^ N. 8 leagues ; between there is no shelter
on the coast, but to the south-eastward of Boat's Head is a cove, called Boat Harbour^
where small vessels and boats may lie very secure, except with N.E. winds.

From Green Island to Cape Norman the direction is E. I S. [JV.E. hy E.\ £.] 29
miles. The coast between them is straight and low, consisting of limestone, partially
wooded with spruce trees.

II.— The strait of BELLE ISLE and tue COAST of LABRADOR between
CAPE St. lewis and FORTEAU POINT.

GENERAL REMARKS.— The Strait of Belle Isle divides Newfoundland from the
American continent, and is about 60 miles long. The eastern entrance, between Cape
Bauld and Fork Point, is about 26 miles wide; the western, about 18 miles. The
narrowest part, between Point Amour and IVewf'ounriland, is 9^ miles. The depth of water
in the Strait is usually greatest on the north side ; it varies between 70 and 20 fathoms,
but is very irregular; the quality of the bottom is equally various, so as to afford very
little assistance to a vessel passing through in foggy weather.

Winds from the south and east invariably bring the fogs which are so prevalent here,
and which are also frequently brought with winds from the south-west ; clear weather is
only certain in north and west winds. The climate here is very severe, much more so than
the coasts more to the north, the mean temperature of the year being below the freezing point.

A branch of the current which passes southward, through Davis Straits down the coast
of Labrador, enters the Strait of Belle Isle, bringing with it the numerous ico^>ergs with
which the strait frequently abounds, and which are carried into the Gulf of St. Lawrence,
sometimes as far as Anticosti. The strength of this current is very much increased by a
prevalence of N.E. winds, after which ii sometimes runs, at a rate of 1 miles per hour,
through the strait, and spreading outward into the gulf, gradually diminishes in force after
a course of 30 or 40 miles, while at other times it is inappreciable. This prevailing current
comes along the Labrador shore, between it and Belle Isle, and is very often at a freezing
temperature ; as before said, it is sometimes as strong as 2 knots per hour, but it is usually
much weaker, and sometimes, with a prevalence of S.W. winds, entirely ceases, and a
current is even known to run in a contrary direction, to the N.E. This N.E. stream sets
along the Newfoundland shore ; and at times, while the current from the Atlantic is running
westerly along the north side of the strait, there is a stream of the warmer water of the
gulf passing along the southern shore ; and at others, this southern current runs obliquely
across the western entrance of the gulf.*

There is usually a regular alternation of flood and ebb near the shores, in fine weather,
but it is not constant. The flood comes from the northward.

The navigatior: of the strait, it is evident, from all these causes, is difficult, and should
not be attempted at night, or during foggy weather ; for a vessel cannot, under these
circumstances, be sure of its position or course ; therefore, to avoid the drifting icebergs,
which are '" squently aground, and generally exist in large numbers in the strait, as well as
other dangers, it would be better to come to some anchorage. During calms or light
winds, as well as in foggy weather, or the night, it would be better to anchor in one of the
bays on the north side, than drift about ; if this be not practicable, it would be advisable to
bring-to with a stream anchor, keeping a look-out for icebergs. In entering the strait from
the eastward, with a leading wind, and being obliged to seek anchorage, the first secure
place that can be put in to on the north side, is Black Bay. Red Bay cannot be entered

See "Atlantic Memoir," 8th Edition, p. 167.

ST. LEWIS SOUND.

rom the east
?hich the sea
111 the island
itvvard, keep
g in from the

lich render it

weallier ; the

; is no shelter

oat Harbour^

y E. \ £.] 29
one, partially

3R BETWEEN

land from the
between Cape
B miles. The
depth of water
d 20 fathoms,
;o afford very

prevalent here,
lear weather is
;h more so than
B freezing point.

down the coast
icp^ergs with
St. JLawrence,
increased by a
liles per hour,
s in force after
|evailing current
n at a freezing
lut it is usually
ceases, and a
.E. stream sets
lantic is running
Ir water of the
runs obliquely

(n fine weather,

alt, and should

bt, under these

(ifling icebergs,

Itrait, as well as

1 calms or light

i)r in one of the

[be advisable to

the strait from

khe first secure

[mot be entered

with an easterly wind. But in proceeding to the east, and not within the western entrance,
it would be better to stand off and on under easy sail, on the Newfoundland shore, till
morning, sounding occasionally, or else make for Forteau Bay.

BELLE ISLE, which gives its name to the strait, lies at the eastern entrance of the
strait ; it lies 13^ miles N.E. \ N. [iV. J £.] from Cape Bauld, in Newfoundland, and 15f
miles from York Point, on the coast of Labrador, in a S.E. \ S. \_E. by S. i S.] direction.
It is composed of a range of hills of a moderate height, and a very barren appearance, and
is much frequented by American and English fishermen. It is about 9 J miles long and
4 J wide. It is steep from the water's edge all around, except on the N.E. end of it, where
there is a small cove between two points, where very small vessels may find shelter. Lark
Cove, or harbour, near the middle of the north side, is the only other shelter ; it is formed
by Lark Island, but it can only be used by fishing boats. These are the only safe
anchorages, and the coast is clear all around it.

Cape St. Lewis is in lat. 52<' 21' 24" N., and long. 55" 41' 23" W. It lies N. i E.
about 2f) miles from the N.E. end of Belle Isle. It is the north point of St. Lewis Sound,
and is about 600 feet high. To the east is St. Lewis Rock, close to the shore.

ST. ZiBWXS SOUND is above 4 miles wide at the entrance, between Cape St.
Lewis and North Battle Island; the bearing between ihem is S.VV. ^ VV. It is about 8 miles
deep, and the south side is formed by several islands. The shores are bold, and the water
every where very deep, often exceeding 50 or 60 fathoms. In the fall of the year, a heavy
ground swell, called the undertow, sometimes rolls in from the east into St. Lewis Sound,
through the islands, as fir as the entrance of the inlet. It comes in tremendous waves, often
without wind, bursting over islrts 30 feet higli, and proceeds with irresistible force against
the sides of the precipices. It is, however, not so dangerous as the short breaking sea of the
gulf, and it discovers shoals, as every thing with less than 4 fathoms on it, is sure to break.

Fox Harbour is 1^ miles N.VV. of the south point of Cape St. Lewis, extending nearly a
mile E.N.E., and is a perfectly secure anchorage in from 6 to 8 fathoms. Its east point is
low, with several fishermen's houses on it, and a small rock close off it, to the north, which
must be left about 60 fathoms on tlie starboard, to avoid a shoal, partly above water, off
the S.VV. of the point, which forms the north side of the entrance. Water may be procured,
but wood is extremely scarce. The principal entrance to Deer Harbour is 5 miles N.VV.
of Cape St. Lewis ; the sides are bold to, and the depth of the entr;r.i.;e is from 19 to 31
fathoms ; the harbour is formed by Marnham Island, and is perfectly landlocked, and there
is room for any vessel to beat in or out : the depth in it foni 16 to 25 fathoms. Open Bay
is immediately to the S.VV. of the entrance of Deer Harbour; there is good anchorage near
its head, but is exposed to the S.E.

5^ Lewis Inlet is at the west end of St. Lewis Sound. It is nearly a mile wide at llie
entrance, and the depth is often above 30 fathoms, on account of which there is no good
F.nchorage u ,til at Black Fly Island, 9 miles N.VV. J N. from the entrance, under the west
side of whicii there is a good anchorage, in 5 and 9 fathoms ; wood and water are plentiful
here. Above this the navigation is intricate. The entrance to the channel leading to St.
Lewis Inlet, is between Black Reef, half a mile S.E. | E. from the south point of Open Bay,
and the Seal Islands ; steer N.N.VV. \ W. from it, for 2§ miles, to the North Middle Rocks,
giving them a berth of two cables to the west, keeping the same course for 2 miles more, to
within 400 fathoms of the two Seal Isles ; then proceed N.VV. by VV. \ VV. through the
channel, to the north of the River Islands, which is three-quarters of a mile wide, and clear,
except two small islands, which must be passed to the southward. 3| miles on this course,
will bring you abreast of Telegraph Point, at the entrance of the inlet.

The River Islands form the south side of St. Lewis Sound ; they consist of Kalmia,
PockUngtun, and the Seal Islands ; the first separated from Telegraph Point by a deep and
clear channel, 400 fathoms wide. These islands are bare granite, and to the west of them,
between them and the main, it is possible to anchor, though the depth is great, above 3U
fathoms.

Fall Harbour is on the south of Telegraph Point. It is small, only fit for small vessels,
and has 3 fathoms water ; Cutler Harbour, another harbour of the main, has several rocks
in it, and is only fit for small vessels. Muddle Harbour is a snug little harbour between
Surf Island, Size Island, and Muddle Island. To enter it from St. Lewis Sound, steer
VV.N.W. i W. 2 miles, to Surf Cape, the north-west extreme of Great Caribou Island,
which may be kept close to, and steer from it S.VV. by W, one mile, to the narrows of
Caribou Channel, between the south-east end of Surf Island, and the west end of Great

NIGER SOUND.

Caribou ; then proceed for 60O fathoms north-west between Surf and Muddle Islands, and
then haul in to westward, and anchor when you please. The Battle Islands form the south
point of St. Lewis Sound, and the south-east island is the extremity, both south-west and
north-east, of the coast of Labrador. The liibb Reefs are about half a mile apart, and bear
north and south from each other; the north reef bears east IJ mile from North Rattle
Island ; the sea always breaks on them, and vessels ought to pass outside of them. West
of these is Great Caribou Island, which is 9 miles in circumference ; its south-east side is
broken to coves open to seaward, and there are several islets and rocks along it, and one
sunken, the Foam Rock, which is the only danger between battle Islands and the Great
Caribou. Battle Harbour is between the Battle Islands and the east end of Great Caribou.
It is only fit for small vessels, the entrance being about .30 fathoms wide, 70 or 80 fathoms
wide within, and half a mile long. It is generally crowded with the vessels and boats of
the fishermen, which moor to the rocks on either side, and the shores are covered with their
houses and stages. There is a good house and store on Signal hiaud, with a high flag-
staff which may be readily seen at sea, and from which the island derives its name. The
south entrance is only fit for boats; vessels must therefore approach from the norihward,
passing to the west of the North liattle, and the islands lying between it and Signal Island.
There are two small round islets, the southernmost in the entrance of the harbour ; these
may be passed close on either side. This harbour is secure during the summer months,
but is unsafe in the fall of the year, from the heavy ground swell before mentioned.

Cape St. Charles may be easily recognised by St. Charles Hill, which is round, and
654 feet above the sea, and is the highest land on this part of the coast. St. Charles Har-
bour is on the east side of the Cape, and is formed by three islands ; the depth in it is from
5 to 12 fathoms. Fiahjlake Island is the south-easternmost. Blackhill Island, which is
high, black, and precipitous, is the next, and Spare Island is the innermost. Tlie channel
out of the harbour to the N.W. of Spare Island, is intricate, and only fit for boats. The
entrance into the harbour is between Fishflake and Blackhill Islands, and is quite clear.
The S.E. extreme of Fishflake Island appears like the extremity of the Cape, and bears
E. by S. 1^ mile from St. Charles Hill. St. Charles Channel is between tlie Caribou,
Size, and Muddle Islands ; it is deep water, and has no detached shoals. The course
up the centre of this fine channel to the narrows, is N.W. ^ N. 3^ miles. A run of half
a mile north, through the narrows, leads into the channel, between Muddle Island and the
main, which is deep, and free from all dangers. The course through this channel io the
mouth of St. Charles River is N.N.W. 1^ miles ; and a vessel may either run up that bay
to the westward, or through INIuddle Channel eastward, into St. Lewis Sound. St. Charles
River runs east, and is nearly a mile broad ; about 2 miles up, it becomes narrow and
intricate. Wood and water may be had in plenty up this inlet.

NIGER SOUND. — The entrance is between Cape St. Charles and the Camp Islands,
the S.E. extreme of the latter bearing S.W. ^ W. 3^ miles from the S.E. extreme of Fish-
flake Island. Niger Island lies 2^ miles within this entrance, nearer the north than the
south side of the Sound. 300 fiithoms south of this is Smooth Island, much smaller and
lower; the channel between these islands is unsafe, but north and south of them the chan-
nels are quite free. There is good anchorage in Horn Baj/, at the head of the Sound ; and
in Islet Boy, north of Niger Island.

Camp Islands. — The inner Camp Island, about 300 feet high, and three-quarters of a
mile in diameter, lies ofi' the S.W. point of Niger Sound, leaving a boat-channel between.
The Outer Camp Islands, IJ mile long, and three-quartets of a mile broad, are not quite
so high, and are also of pure granite ; they are separated from the former by a clear channel.
There is a small cove on their west side, 200 fathoms wide, where small fishing vessels
moor to the rocks ; but the shelter is very indifferent in S.W. winds.

Table Head is a remarkable isolated mass of basaltic columns upon sandstone, flat at top,
and precipitous all round. It lies S.VV. by W. a W. 5 miles from Camp Islands.

St. Peter Bai/ is open to the S.E., but the force of the sea is broken by the islets and
reefs. It lies within the St. Peter Islands, which are small and low, with many rocks
above and under water; the easternmost of them lies S.W. by W. 6 miles from the Camp
Islands. St. Peter Bay is 2 miles deep, in a N.N.W. direction, and there is anchorage
three-quarters of a mile from its head, in 13 to 20 fathoms. The entrance between Point
Peter and the innermost islet is three-quarters of a mile wide, and 6 or 7 fathoms deep : it
has a 2-fathom shoal in it to the West of the islet, and a reef off Point Peter, the passage
between them being about 400 fathoms wide, and must be approached from the south

CHATKAU BAV.

slands, and
r\ the south
th-west and
rt, anil bear
orth Battle
lem. West
-east side is

it, and one
d the Great
eat Caribou,
r 80 fathoms
ind boats of
ed with their

a high flag-
name. The
e nortliward,
ignal Island,
rbour ; these
mier months,
oned.

is round, and
Charles Har-
[i in it is from
ind, which is
The channel
r boats. The
is quite clear,
pe, and bears
I the Caribou,
The course
A run of half
slanvl irnd the
channel 'O the
in up that bay
St. Churk's
s narrow and

Iffwip Islands,
[treme of Fish-
Inorth than the
:h smaller and
liem tl»e chan-
ge Sound ; and

-quarters of a
jnnel between.
I are not quite

clear channel.

ishing vessels

[ne, flat at top,
lands.

I the islets and

many rocks

[•om the Camp

is anchorage

jetween Point

horns deep : it

the passage

)m the south,

I-

passing to the west of all the St. Peter Islands, not less than one-quarter of a mile. The
anchorage in this bay is but indifferent, and wood and water can be procured.

Castle Island lies W. \ S. 6J miles from the S.VV. St. Peter Island, and about midway
between them are Sandwich Head and Cove, the latter only usef; " to boats. Off the East
end of Castle Island, at the distance of 150 fathoms, is a 3 fathoms ledge. Between
Sandwich Head and Castle Island is Bad Bay, which is roclty and dangerous, and affords
no shelter.

CHATEAU BAY is easily recognised from the offing, by its position with reference to
the remarkable Table Head and the St. Peter Islands, by the higii land in the rear of it,
and by there bein^ a straight, unbroken coast free from islands to the West of it; and also
by the two hills on Castle and Henley Islands, which are perpendicular and flat-topped,
and 200 feet high. This bay has within it, Henley, Antelope, and Pitt's Harbour. The
piincipal entrance to Chateau Bay is between Chateau and York Points, the latter bearing
from the former VV.N.W. | W. IJ miles.

Temple Bay runs 4[- miles in a N. by W. direction, deep water, and no good anchorage.
The mouth of the bay is closed by JVhale Island, at the head of Chateau Bay. Temple
Pass is on the south of Whale Island; it is only 80 fiUhoms wide, and 4 fathoms deep,
and bears 1} mile N.N.E. J E. from York Point. On the north side of Whale Island, is
a passage into the Bay called Whale Gut, the navigable channel of which is 100 yards
wide and 4 fathon , deep.

Henley Harbour is only fit for small vessels ; the only navigable entrance faces the
south, in which direction are the basalt columns of Castle Island.

Antelope Harbo"^ is on the east side of the bay, to the north of Henley Island, and between
it and Barrier Point, which with its reef, separates it from Pitt's Harbour to the northward.
The passage leading into both these harbours is between Stage and Henley Islands to the
eastward, and Whale and Flat Islands to the westward. There are three dangerous ledges
which must be avoided in coming into this harbour; the outermost with 2 fathoms, lies in
the line from the extremity of Chateau Point and the eastern extreme of Whale Island, and
the south extreme of Seal Islands, seen through the narrow channel between Castle and
Henley Islands, bearing E. | N. ; the second with 3 fathoms least water, in the line, 160
fathoms from the east side of Flat Island ; and the third, with only 9 feet water between
the eastern extreme of Whale Island and Black Point, the N.W. point of Henley Island.

VilVs Harbour is very superior to Antelope Harbour; it is a mile long, and three-
quarters of a mile wide, and has a depth of 4 fathoms close to the shores, deepening to 18
fathoms in the centre. You may anchor in any part, as it is perfectly siieltered. Water
and wood are plentiful. To enter these harbours, and being between Chateau and York
Points, bring Grenville Point on the north side of Antelope Harbour and Black Point,
both of steep, black rock, in one, bearing N.N.E. \ E., and run in on this course, which
leaves the first ledge to the right, till you arrive between Flat and Stage Islands, leaving
the second ledge on the left ; bear a little to the north, just to clear to westward of the
Black Rock, off Black Point, and then round it to eastward and enter Antelope Harbour.
To enter Pitt's Harbour, as soon as the Black Rock bears east, change course to N.W. by
N., and run on till the east end of Whale Island and the western extreme of Chateau
Point on Castle Island are in one bearing, S. | W. ; then proceed N. § E., and enter the
harbour, which course will clear the shoal water off Pitt's Point.

York Point is quite bold, and so is Chateau Point, to the west, but has shoal water
50 fathoms off it, to the S.E. It may be considered as the north point of the east entrance
of the Strait of Belle Isle; to the N.W. of it is a high ridge, called the High Beacon,
959 feet above the sea.

The coast runs westward, straight and bold to Wreck Bay, which is W. J S. 10^ miles
from York Point. It affords no shelter. Two miles and a half S.W. of its east point is a
rocky patch, with 5 fathoms. Barge Bay is W. ^ S. 16^ miles from York Point, and
affords no anchorage. Greenish Bay is about 5^ miles W. by N. from Barge Bay, and is
open to the S.E. ; the holding-ground is not good, but it is sometimes used by small vessels.
Between this and Red Bay is the Siink Ledge; the rocks are awash, bearing S.E. J S.,
half a mile from Iwin Island, close to the east point of Red Bay.

Red Bay is a beautiful little harbour, perfectly sheltered from every wind. It is formed
by Saddle Island, lying off the entrance of a bay ; it has a hill at each end, about 100 feet
high. To the west of this is West Bay, exposed to easterly winds, but with tolerable

Ill

!'! ■'

ISH

BLACK AND FORTKAU BAYS.

anchorage in 10 or 12 fathoms in westerly winds. The outer harbour of Red Bay is
between Saddle and Harbour Islands, at the entrance of the inner harbour, v'lh a depth
of G to 9 fathoms. Immediately to the N.E. of this is the entrance to the inner harbour :
it is 100 fathoms wide, but shoal on each side, the depth in the middle being 7 fathoms ;
within is a capacious basin, where any number of vessels mitjht safely winter. It is easily
entered with a leading wind, but the entrance is too narrow for a large vessel to beat into.

Carrol Cove is 3i miles W. by S. of Red IJay ; it is very small, and used by a few
fishing vessels. Off the eastern point of Black Bay, there are two small islands, a mjle
apart, called the Little St. Modest Islands. They have a dangerous rock off shore, half a
mile S.E. by S. from the W. extreme of the western isle; this must be carefully avoided.
St. Modest Isle is on the opposite or west side of Black Bay ; it is bare, and within it,
fishing vessels moor to the rocks on either side.

Black Bay is 11 miles west of Red Bay; it is 3 miles wide, and about Q miles deep.
It is open to S.E. winds, which send in a heavy swell, but there is tolerable anchorage in
10 fathoms off a fine sandy beach, to the west of a river at the head of the bay. There is a
rocky shoal of 2 fathoms, one mile N.W. of St. Modest Island.

From St. Modest Island, 1 j mile SW., is Cape Diable, and to the west of this is Diable
Bat/, which with Loup Buif, 3 miles further, may be readily known by the magnificent
cliffs of red sandstone, 300 or -100 feet high, which extend two or three miles between them.
Schooner Cove is on the S.W. side of Loup Bay ; it is open to the eastward, but fishing
vessels use it in the summer months. There are a fishing establishment and several houses
in this cove. The anchorage in Loup Bay is extremely good ; it is best in the N.E. corner
of it; although open to the south, vessels ride here all the summer.

FoRTEAU Rav is 4 miles west of Loup Hay; it is 4 miles broad between Point Amour,
the S.E. point, and Point Forteau, the S.W. point, and which bears E. J S. from the
other; it is about 21 miles deep, and runs to the northward. At the head of the bay is a
large and rapid river, abounding in salmon, and a fine sandy beach. There is a fine fall of
water 1 J mile within the bay, fronj Point F'^orteau, which, with a remarkable high rock off
the S.W. of Point Amour, will serve to point out the bay to strangers. It is the best
roadstead in the Strait of Belle Isle, and the Jersey vessels employed in the fishery, lie
moored all the summer; they have large fishing establishments on the west side of the bay.
The best anchorage is on the N.W. side, opposite the fishing establishments. From Point
Amour, across the entrance of the Strait of Belle Isle, to the N.W. extremity of Nev/-
foundland, the distance is Ql miles.

lied Bay is

ilh a depth

er harbour :

7 fadioms ;

It is easily

D beat into.

;d by a ffiw
inds, a mile
shore, half a
illy avoided,
id within it,

I miles deep,
mchorage in
, There is a

his is lYiahle
I ma;znificent
Hween them.
, but fishing
everal houses
B N.E. corner

^oint Amour,

S. from the

' the bay is a

s a fine fall of

high rock off

t is the best

^e fishery, lie

e of the bay.

From Point

ity of Nev;-

PART IL

The gulf and RIVER of ST. LAWRENCE.*

The entrance of the Gulf of St. Lawrence lies between Cape North, the N.E. point of
Breton Island, and Cape Ray, the S.W. point of Ncwfounrlland. The distance between
these Capes is 18 J leagues: and the bearing from the former to the latter E.N, 15. | E.

At the distance of four leagues E.N.E. ^ E. from Cape North, lies the little island of
St. Paul, which has a light-house at each end of it, and deep water all round. From Cape
Ray, the bearing and distance to this island are W.S.W. \ W, 14 leagues. (See page 70.)

COMPASS-BEARINGS and DISTANCES.

Cape Ray to the Bird Islands N.W. \ W. 22 leagues.

Cape Ray to the east point of Anticosii, N.N.W. \ W. 43 leagues.

Cape North to the N.E. end of the Magdalen Islands, N. by W. f W. 16 leagues.

Cape North to the Bird Islands, North 18| leagues.

N.E. end of the Magdalen Islands to the Bird Islands, N.E. by E. -| E. 17 miles.

N.W. end of St. Paul's Island to the east side of the Bird Islands, N. by W. \ W.
53 miles.

I. GENERAL PHENOMENA.— WINDS, WEATHER, CURRENTS, ICES, &c.

WINDS. — The prevalent wind, in the summer, in all parts of the River and Gulf of St.
Lavvrence, is from the S.W. Westerly winds are almost always accompanied with fine,
dry, sunny weather; easterly winds as frequently the contrary. Steady N.W. winds do
not blow frequently before September, except for a few hours at a time, when t hey gene
ally succeed easterly winds that have died away to a calm, and usually veer round to the
S.W. In the spring, easterly winds are the prevailing winds, sometimes blowing for several
weeks in succession. Strong winds seldom veer quickly round from one point of the com-
pass to another directly contrary ; in general they die away to a calm, and are succeeded by
a wind in the opposite direction.

The direction of the winds in the river is generally directly up or down its course,
following the direction of the high lands on either shore. Thus a S.E. wind in the Gulf
becomes E.S.E. between Anticosti and the S. coast ; E.N.E. above Point de Monts ; and
N.E. above Green Island.

E*OGS< — The prevalence of fug is oneofilie greatest sources of danger in the navigation
of these parts, and during their prevalence there is no sure guide for the mariner but the
constant use of the lead. These fogs prevail when the wind is in the eastern quarter. They
sometimes coine with westerly winds, but they are rare, and never of long continuance.
Winds between south and east bring rain and fog in almost every part ; and E.N.E. winds
in the River, above Point de Monts, becoming S.E. winds in the Gulf, have the same foggy
character.

These fogs are probably occasioned by the unequal temperature of the water brought
down by the river and that of the gulf, which is colder, from the influx of the northern
stream through the strait of Belle Isle, and between these and the air. The eddy flood
mixing with the waters of the river, besides occasioning the dense and low fogs, are also

* A description of the harbours, &c. on the western and southern sides of the Gulf of St, Lawrence
below Cape Rosier, is rcsevvcd for the next Part.

GULF AND iUVtIl OF ST. LAWIIENCE.

prubdbly the occasion of the phenomenon of Miiage, which sometimes occurs, and which is
caused by terrestrial refraction from unequal temperatures in the different strata of the air
and water.*

Amongst other phenomena met with in the Gulf and River of St. Lawrence, is the local
attraction or devintion of the compass, but this has probably been over-rated ; this subject
is noticed in the directions for sailing up the river, given hereafter. Capt. Bayfield says,
" The magnetic oxide of iron docs exist abundantly, and attracts the needle very power-
fully at some points, particularly along the coast from the Hay of Seven Isl.inds eastward.
Among the Mingan Islands we found the variation to vary from this cause r'rom 19° to 31**
west. At Port Neuf, and on Manic6ugan Point, the needle was also disturbed ; but these
effects were only noticed when the instrument was placed on the shore. In two instances
only, when sailing wiiliin two miles of the shore, have we observed any effect of the kind
upon the compasses on board the Gulnare, and then only to the amount of a few degrees."

CURRENTS.— The current which prevails through the Strait of Belle Isle passes
along the north shore of the Gulf, at a short distance from it, leaving a space between it and
the land, in which the alternations of tide are tolerably regular, when not otherwise affected
by the winds. Pursuing this S.W. direction towards Cape Whittle, and gradually losing its
force as it advances, it takes the direction given it by the trending of the coast at this part,
and meeting with the current which comes from the west, from the river on the north side
of Anticosti, and which perhaps is deflected by the projection of tl)e land at Natashquan

• A remarkable instance o( Mirage, or terrestrial refraction in the atmosphere, was seen by Copt.
Bayfield, June 19, 1832, in the sui;veying vessel Gulnare, then off Point de Monts, which bore
N. ei** E., seven miles distant. The temperature of the air at the time (10 h. 30 m. a.m.) was 19°;
of the sea, at the surface, and the dew point of the air, 44°. At the time of making the observations,
there was a very light breeze from the westward, with partially cloudy weather.

To the southward were 12 or 14 sail of merchant vessels, at the estimated distance of or 7 miles,
and beyond them the south coast near Cape Chat. This land is bold and high, with mountains
which attain an elevation of several thousand feet at a few miles from the sea. It was not in the
least disturbed by Mirage, except for a short time in the lower part of the coast to the eastward.
The vessels were all affected by Mirage, in the most distinct manner, presenting triple images.

First there was the vessel hersolf, with her hull occasionally raised, so as to show it distinctly
above the horizon, although the height of the eye on board was not over eleven feet. Her sails
appeared elongated laterally, but were perhaps only shortened vertically, which made them appear
so elongated.

Over the vessel appeared her inverted image, the upper sails joining. This inverted image was,
at times, so perfectly distinct that we could distinguish the colour of the paint on the vessel's sides
more plainly by it than by the vessel herself. It was precisely like the appearance of a vessel seen
through an inverting telescope, excepting that it was distorted like the vessel herself, being short-
ened vertically.

Above the inverted image, but touching it, was a well-defined white line, which showed plainly,
in consequence of the dark laud beyond. This line was evidently the reflected horizon, for the
inverted image of the vessel appeared as if hanging from it.

Above the inverted image was another of the vessel, in her natural position, distinct ; but, like
the others, much shortened vertically. This third image and the inverted one appeared placed keel
to keel, or more correctly speaking, as if each had been cut off at the water line, and then the
vessels placed together, the white line forming the only separation between them.

As the white line rose or fell, which it did continually, so the inverted image rose and fell also ;
and the vessel herself became elongated or shortened vertically in the same proportion, the con-
nection between their upper sails being always continued, sometimes nearly touching and others
overlapping.

Flying showers of rain soon after occurred, in various directions ; and the relative temperatures of
the air, dew point, and surface water, were foimd to be changeable during the day. Thus at 3 h. 30 m.
p. m. the air was 49°, the dew point 45°, and the surface water 42° of Fahrenheit, f

Upon this subject Mr, Edw, Sahben, in II. M.S. Niemen, August, 1823, near Cape Chat, said,
" On our passage downward the houses along shore were frequently seen considerably depressed or
elevated, and sometimes inverted by refraction.

•« Varying results of observations taken in Gaspe Bay also evinced extraordinary refraction. The
insulated rock close to Cape Gaspe, and distant from the ship about six miles, appeared on the
morning of the 2oth very high and out of the water, seeming an object of equal size to a schooner,
then passing near it. On the 26th, at the time of observation, it was scarcely perceptible."

Here we may add that, in the summer nights, in weather calm and fine, with bright aurora and
heavy dew, such circumstances are usually indicative of an easterly wind in the succeeding morning,
with thick weather, its constant accompaniment.

t FiXiract from the dicscription by Capt. H, W. Bayfield, Nautical Magazine, Feb. 1835, pp.
91, 02, 93.

CURUENTS.

id which is
1 of the air

is ihe local
ihis subject
yfield says,
ery power-
Is eastward.
1 19° to 31"
; but these
,'0 instances
of tlie kind
w degrees."

; Isle passes
:ween it and
wise affected
lly losing ils
at this part,
le north side
Natashquaii

seen by Copt.
5, which bore
,tn.) was 19°;
! obsevvations,

»fGor7 miles,
ith mountains
fas not in the
the eastward.
i images.
Y it distinctly
et. Her sails
them appear

d image was,
vessel's sides
a vessel seen
being short-
lowed plainly,
Hzon, for the

lict ; but, like
\d placed keel
md then the

ind fell also ;
lion, the. con-
Ig and others

liipcratures of
at 3 h. 30 m.

Chat, said,
[depressed or

iction. The
bared on the

a schooner,
lie."

aurora and
ling morning,

1835, pp.

Toint, it gradually takes a S.S.E. course, across the Gulf, and then meeting with the main
current of the St. Lawrence, coming to the south of Anticosti, between it and the Magdalen
Jsiands, the whole of the waters take a S.E. couise, through the principal entrance of the
Culf, between Cape Ray on Newfoundland and the Island of St. Paul.

These currents are modified by various causes, and their strength and direction are'diffi-
cull to estimate, although it is of great importance that a proper allowance should be made
for them, as, from their southern tendency, many vessels are lost, from want of due precau-
tion, on tl>e coasts of Guspc and its neighbourhood, on the Magdalen Islands, iScc. " This
■cunenl," says Capt. Bayfield, " is checked by easterly winds, and may sometimes run in a
contrary direction from the same cause." Northerly winds may also cause it to set to the
.southward, towards Dreton Island. In corroboration of this is the following communication
from Mr. James Jeffery, M.R.N. : —

'« St. Pierre to the Gulf of St. Lawrence. — We sailed from St. Pierre with a fresh
easterly wind and clear weather ; but, when about ten miles off the land it came on thick,
with small rain. Toward the evening it cleared up, and we gained sight of the land about
eight, near Cape Blanche. On steering to pass between St, Paul's Island and Cape Ray
the wind increased, and at midnight it blew fresh with clear weather : at day-light it blew a
gale, with a heavy sea and thick weather. The vessel was hove-to, with her head to the
northward, under close-reefed foresail. At 5 h. 30 m. it cleared up a little, and we again
bore up, in hope of making St. Paul's Island. At 5 h. 40 m. the land was seen ahead,
making high, like an island, and as it agreed with our reckoning, no doubt was entfirtained
as to our exact position. We kept away to pass to leeward of it, and could just keep it in
sight, as it came on thick immediately after we discovered the land. At 7 a, m. a low point
was seen right ahead, and breakers about a mile or a mile and a half off the starboard bow.
There being no low point on St. Paul's Island, it was evident that the land seen must be
about Cape North on Breton Island, and that, since 8 p. m, the preceding evening, we had
been set in a S.W. direction at two miles an hour. We now had the disagreeable task of
beating off a lee-shore, blowing a gale, with a heavy sea and an iron-bound coast to lee-
ward ; and it will appear evident that, had the weather but partially cleared up, to have
given a sight of the land, and if we had continued hove-to, we must have been set down on
St. Paul's Island, having escaped the set on Cape North. Sail being made, we stood
S,E. by S. and succeeding in berthing the point at about a mile and a half.

At 9ji. 10 m. a, m. having gained an offing of about 4 or 5 miles, with a very heavy
sea, our bowsprit went short oflf at the stem ; the fore-mast and main-mast followed it in-
stantly, and all the wreck fell overboard : thus totally dismasted, on a dead lee-shore,
without any anchorage, by setting a sail on the stump of the fore-mast we managed to keep
the head off. Once toward evening the wind and sea abated, but very thick weather still
continued. During the whole day there was heavy rain and sleet. On the next morning
the weather cleared up, and at 7 we saw the land near Scatari Island, and succeeded in
anchoring in Miray Bay at night."

The flood-tide entering the River St. Lawrence, proceeds upwards in the wide and deep
channel of the estuary, till it is obstructed by the contracted breadth of the river near Red
Island, and the sudden shallowing of it near this part ; from this cause it is prevented from
continuing in its upward course, and in consequence of the quantity of water here collected
not finding a sufficient outlet, it is reverted, and forms an eddy-fiood. The stream of flood,
therefbre, runs in opposite directions, on either side of the river. This stream coming from
the eastward, as it approaches the northern part of Red Island Bank runs very strong,
sometimes at a rate of 4 knots, bearing round at this part, and proceeding in a different
direction towards the Razade Islands, with a velocity of from 2 to 3 miles per hour, and
then proceeds onward with a constant current downwards, thus adding to the current of
water from the river itself, and increasing its strength. It is strongest in-shore, and extends
about half-way over, diminishing in strength towards the middle ; and from this difference
in its velocity, and the unequal depth of the river, occasioning those violent whirls and
ripples which occur in its strongest parts.

On the south coasts of the part of the River between Cape Gasp6 and Green Island,
there is no upward current from the tides that is available for navigation : during the floods
at spring-tides, there is a westerly current felt close in-shore, the line between the two
streams being marked by strong rippling.

Off Point de Monts there is very little or no stream of flood, excepting close in-shore,
and the downward current is constant oft' that point. The point diverts the current to the

ISLAND Ol" ST. PALL.

S.S.E., which runs at a rate of from one to two miles an liour, so iliat it ii> clitlicuU lor a
vessel to beat round it with a westerly wind.

During the ebb tide, the stream runs down on both sides, strongest on the south, and
weakest in the middle of the estuary. On the N. shore, it is turned to the southward by
the projecting points at the Bay de Miile Vachcs, Port Hcrsimis, the Peninsula of Mani-
cougan, and Point de Monts ; this fact is important, and ought to be attended to, as this
southern tendency is increased at these points by the water brought down by the large
rivers between them.

On the south side, the stream of the ebb tide is also increased, by the efflux of water
from the Sagucnay River, which, settincf with great velocity across the tail of the Red Island
Rank, adds to the downward course of the stream. The tides in the River above this part
are described hereafter.

ZCES. — On the approach of winter the navigation of the Gulf is greatly impeded by
floating ices, and the river is at length choked with broken fields of ice, exhibiting the most
varied and fimtastic appearances ; the wiiole country on each side is then covered with
snow, and all the trees, excepting the stern fir-tribes, are denuded of their folinge.

In crossing the Gulf, even during the summer months, islands of ice have frequently
been met willi. The ice that drifts out of the rivers all disappears by the latter end of
May, but these masses make no part of it. The conjecture is, that they are not formed on
any of die neighbouring coasts, but descend from the more northerly regions of Davis's
Strait, &c., where, it is presumed, they are severed by the violence of storms, from the vast
accumulations of the arctic winl r ; and passing near the coast of Labrador, are drawn by
the in-draught of the current into tiie Strait of Pelle-Islc. Tiiey often are a hundred feet in
Iieight, with a circumference of many thousands; llie indications of their presence in the
night, or during fogs, have been described on page 1 J. By day, from the dazzling reflection
of the sun's rays, also by moonlight, at a safe distance, their appearance is brilliant and
agreeable.

II.— The island of St. PAUL, MAGDALEN ISLES, and ANTICOSTL

The XSXiAND of ST. PAU£i lies N. 57'> E. true, ten miles from Cape North,
on Breton Island. The northern extremity of the island is in lat. 47° 14' N., and long.
60° 8' 17" W. It is nearly three miles long and one mile broad. The margin is rocky
and precipitous almost all round, indented by coves, in which ships may obtain shelter
during the prevalence of certain winds. On this island are two light-iioujcs, one near the
northern, the other near the southern extremity ; of which one will always be open, unless
to a vessel near the central rocks. The northern light, hrilliatit and fived, is about 140 feet
above the level of the sea; it can be seen to the southward on any bearing between N. by K.
and E. by N. (by compass), when it is obscured by the hills to the southward of it. The
southern light may be seen from the northward on any bearing, except between S.S.E. and
West, when it is obscured by the hills to the northward of it. These lights are visible at a
distance, from each tower, of six leagues.

In Trimly Cove, at the north point of it, is a provision post. This cove is a mile from
the S. point on the W. side; on the opposite side of the island is Atlantic Cove, and a
landing may be effected in either of these. Tiie cove on tlie N.W. affords a small and bold
beach, about 160 feet long, where a landing may be effected, but generally with difficulty,
by reason of the continual swell of the sea. The interior of the island rises into three hills,
the highest being nearly in the centre, and terminating in a square summit of about ^0 feet
on each side, and nearly perpendicular, which is estimated to be about 500 feet above the
level of the sea. The surface of the island is, in general, rocky, with some spots of marsh
or bog, which probably supply the fresh water found issuing from the rock. Stunted fir
and white birch trees are the only products of the isle, but some drift wood may be picked up.

There is anchorage all round the island, and close in-shore, which circumstance enables
vessels to lie there with any winds, by shifting their stations as the wind and weather
require; — a mode practised by the privateers of the United Slates durinjr the late war.
There are tolerably regular soundings off the north side, at the distance of half or three-
quarters of a mile ; on the N.E. side a bank lies off about three-quarters of a mile, with
from 7 to 8 fathoms of water. The general depth of the soundings around the island, at
half a mile from the shore, is from 20 to 40, but the water soon deepens to 100, fathoms.
There is a plentiful fishery of cod and mackerel around the coast, and also an abundance
of seals.

JHcull I'Ji a

south, and
jthward by
la of JVIaiii-
to, as this
)y the large

\\ of water
! lied Island
)ve this part

impeded by
iiig the most
covered with

ige.

^e frequently
latter end of
ot formed on
s of Davis's
from the vast
are drawn by
iiidred feet in
!sence in the
lin;^ refloction
brilliant and

TICOSTI.

1 Cape North,
<., and long,
argin is rocky
obtain shelter
one near the
open, unless
bout 140 feet
,vecn N. by K.
1 of it. The
n S.S.E. and
re visible at a

Is a mile from
Cove, and a
hiall and bold
ni\\ difficulty,
Ito three hills,
labout bO feet
feet above the
lots of marsh
Stunted fir
le picked up.

Itance enables

land weather

Ithe late war.

lialf or three-

a mile, with

|ie island, at

100, fathoms.

\n abundance

ma(;dali:n islands. 87

This island lias been noted for the groat number of wrecks which have been found on its
shores, aribing from the fro(|UCiit fogs and tempestuous weather, the uncertain currents, and
abrupt nature of its coast, &c. ; which, it is hoped, will be obviated, by the two light-
houses, established in IHIO.

Four wrecks occurred in the first week of May, 18134: three wore the Jane of Working-
ton, Crooks, master ; the il/ooH of S,.ti,|eil,iii(l, I'liilliiis; /,sv(/>r//« of Workington, Morrison,
from DroglioJa, with 130 passengv,.;', (seven drowned,) and a bark, name unknown.

The Janr sailed from ^^'o|•kington on the lOth of April, had a fair run to near St. Paul's,
when, on the 7th of May, in a very dark and sleety iiiglit, the vessel struck on the N.E.
end of the island, at about 12 o'clock, with a tremendous crisii, on tlie rocks, although
steering wide of the island, after a good observation. Tiiough immediately under high
cliffs, the land could not be seen. The vessel tilleil with water immediately, and the boats
floating on deck, the crew ami passengers embarked in one, from wliicli, after suflei ing in
a raging sea and snow slorm, during tour hours, tiiey landed, and climbing up the rocks
for three hours, at lenglh reached the slalion-house, where they were kindly received by a
JMr. Perry, who supplied them with clothing and jirovisions, nothing having been saved.

The ]\[uon was wrecked about GO feel from the .Fane, and nearly at tlie same time, but
all lives were saved ; also the hubelld, with 130 passengers, seven of whom were drowned.
The fourth vessel, supposed a bark, name not ascertained, was also wrecked near the same
place, and it was supposed that all the crew were lost. The Jane was wrecked at the N.E.
end of the island.

mC/lCrDAZiBi; SStANDS.— The Magdalen Islands, within the entrance of the
Gulf of St. Lawrence, is a group of irregular isles, betvvoen the parallels of 47" 13' and
47*^ 37' North. They are named respectively Eiilri/ Island, Amlunt, (Jrinilstone, Alri^ht^
Wolfe, Grosse, and CoJ/in Islands', exclusive of Bri/on or Cross Island, and the Bird
Islets, which lie more to the north. These isles, although so near to the coast of Newfound-
land, are included in the government of Canada, being annexed to the district and county
of Gaspti. They contain a population of nearly 1100 souls, diiefly French Acadians and
Catholics. A few Englisli and Irish families are settled among them, all of whom derive
their principal subsistence ftom the fisheries. Beyond the cutivation of potato gardens,
agriculture seems wholly unknown on the islands ; but natural meadows and pasturing
grounds are common, and afford wholesome sustenance to a tolerable proportion of live
stock. The inhabitants are, in general, remarkably hale and healthy, light in complexion,
with flaxen hair. They are cheerful in character, and the females remarkably moaest and
ingenuous. The highest range of Fahrenheit's thermometer has been marked 76°. It has
been also observed, that the islands are devoid of reptiles of any description ; and that,
besides the fox, rabbits are to be found. There are two churches on the islands, and a
parsonage house for the resident missionary.

Gypsum and ore abound on the Magdalens : there appears to be no large timber on
them, and only stunted spruce. The inhabitants are, therefore, not well furnished with
fuel ; but the deficiency is commonly but loo well supplied by wreck timber. Small quan-
tities of grain are produced ; for barley and oats, potatoes, and other vegetables, are occa-
sionally destroyed by early frosts, or will not ripen in cold seasons ; in consequence, both
man and beast suffer severely in the winter months. Fish, seal-skins, and seal-oil, feathers,
and gypsum, are, it appears, their only exports.

Amhei'st is the most southern and principal island, connected with Grindstone Island by
a double line of sand-bars, enclosing an extensive lagoon, five or six miles long, and from
one to three wide, the southern part of which is called Basque Harbour : it has three out-
lets into Pleasant Bay ; the southernmost is the deepest, but has but 3 feet at low water.
Pleasant Bay, to the E. of this, and N.E. of the island, deserves the name. It is the best
haibour 'in the Magdalens, and the only one that vessels can venture to ride in with all
winds. The best anchorage is in 4 fathoms, the rocky point of the entrance of Amherst
Harbour bearing S.W. ^ W. two-thirds of a mile. Amherst Harbour is in the S.VV. corner
of Pleasant Bay ; its entrance is very narrow and crooked, and over the bar is 7 feet
least water.

The Demoiselle, a remarkable hill of Amherst Island, on the S. side of Pleasant Bay, is
about 280 feet high above the sea.

It often happens, from the prevalence of westerly gales in the fall of the year, that ships
bound to Quebec, after enterincj the Gulf, have been driven out again, or they have con-

'11

MAGDALEN ISLANDS.

r,.'ii

0'^r

tended until their crews were worn out, and have gone to the low potts for cargoes, when,
by taking nn anchorage, they would have secured their passage. Theae islands may be
approached, generally, by the lead, to seven fathoms of water.

To the west an islet or rock, called Deadman hkt, stands alone in the sea, at 7| miles
N.W. J W. from the western point of Amherst Island, and is extremely remarkable. In
shape it is an irregular prism, and about three cables' length long by one wide : seen end
on, it looks like a pyramid, and about 170 feet high above the sea. It appears to be quite
inaccessible, and sharp at the top. The waves foam around its base, and dash their white
spray far up its sides, beautifully contrasting with the remarkable colours of the rock, which
appears of a daik reddish brown at each iend, and bluish green in the centre, the colours

fassing into each other. A reef extends from it, for one-third of a mile, toward Amherst
sland.

The While Hone, a very dangerous reef, lies N. 00° E. 7 miles from Deadman Islet,
and W.N.VV. 5J miles from Gull Island, on the coast of Grindstone Island. It is small,
and has 10 feet water over pointed rocks, on which the sea often breaks.

The Pierre de Gros Cap is another dangerous reef, on the west of Grindstone Island ;
it has 18 feet least water, and lies N.E. by E. J E. C miles from the White Horse; N.VV.
by W. from Hospital Cape, and 3§ miles from Cape laTrou, the nearestjpoint of Grind-
stone Island.

Entry Island is the highest of the Magdalcns, and 580 feet high above the sea. It may
be seen, in clear weather, from 8 to 9 leagues off. The eastern side is bold close-to. There
are high and magnificent cliffs of trap, porphyry, new red sandstone, and red marl around
it, excepting the N.VV. point, which has a long sandy spit off" it :«on the N. point is the
remarkable Tower Rock. The cliffs of Amherst Island are also red of different shades;
these contrasted with the green pasture of the hill-sides, the darker green of the spruce trees,
and the bright yellow of the sand-bars and beaches, produce an effect extremely imposing
in a brilliant sunny day, which sometimes occurs.

Fine weather, even in June, is not generally of long continuance; and dark cloudy
weather is commonly indicated by a heavy sweU rolling in from the eastward. Winds are
frequently strong from W.N.W., but S.W. are the prevalent winds during the summer
months.

The Pearl Reef lies E. by N. 4 J miles from the N.E. point of Entry Island, and
S.E. J S. 8 J miles from Cape Alright ; it is small and dangerous, having 9 feet least water.

To the north of Amherst Island is Grindstone Island, the second in size of the group : it
is 550 feet high; and to the N.E. of this. Alright Island. Its S. point is Cape Alright,
which is remarkable ; the cliffs, of a greyish-white colour, with occasional brick-red low
down, are 400 feet high. The S. extremity of the cape is low, with a small rock close off
it. Alright Reef lies E. by S. 3J miles from Cape Alright ; there is 6 feet water over it.

From Grindstone Island the W. coast is a continuance of sand-beaches and sand-hills,
for 9 or 10 miles, to Wolfe Island^ which is of low sandstone cliflTs, three-quarters of a
mile long ; after which the sand-beaches recommence, and continue with high sand-hills
occasionally 9 or 10 miles further to the North Cape, or Grosse Island, a precipice of con-
siderable height. Off" this are the North Cape Rocks, 600 fathoms off" shore.

Tlie East Point of the Magdalens is of low sand, with several sand-hills, which extend
W. to the N.E. Cape. Off" the East Point is the Long Spit, a ridge of sand,' with from 2
to 3 fathoms of water, extending 1§ mile S.E, ^ S. from the point, and for Ij'mile further
the depth is from 4 to 6 fathoms. To clear this spit in 5 or 6 fathoms, take care not to
bring Old Harry Head to bear to the southward of west. It is extremely dangerous and
there is a heavy breaking sea on it. '

Doyle Reef lies S.E. ^ E. CJ miles from the East Point. The least water on it is 3
fathoms on one spot, and 12 to 13 fathoms all round it. It seldom shows, but is one of the
worst dangers of the Magdalens. The only mark to clear it is the North Cape of the
Magdalens open two-thirds of its breadth to the N.E. of the North East Cape, which is a
remarkable hill, 230 feet high, on East Island, which stands at the head of Grand Entry
Harbour, and can be seen over all the sand-hills.

S.W. of East Point is Cojin Island, the N.E. point of which is Old Harrtj Head lying
W.S.W. 4 J miles from it. From this head ^ miles S.S.W. J W. lies the outermost of

■al,^^-

ISLAND OF ANTICOSTI.

the Columbine ShoaU, a natch of rocks with 3 fathoms water. Detwcen this and Coffin
Island are numerous small shoal patches, some of which have not more than 3 feet water.
This is a dangerous part, and should not be approached at night, or during fogs.

At the S.W. end of Coffin Island is the entrance of Grand Entry Harbour, which is
extremely narrow, and ought not to be attempted without a pilot. The depth in this
em ranee is nut more than 10 feet least water, uud the harbour itself is extensive and well
sheltered.

Bri/an or Cross Island. — The north side has steep cliffs of red sand-stone, from which
reefs extend two or tinee miles. Approach no nearer than in 8 fathoms. On llie south
side there is good shelter, with north and west winds, in 6 fathoms, sandy bottom, the east
end of the island bearing E. by S., and the reef to the westward bearing west. In this road
is a strong underset, which makes a ship at her anchors roll heavily.

The RIIID ISLETS are small, and not far asunder: in the passage between them is a
rocky ledge. They are of moderate height, flat and while at top. One appears like a high
lump, and abounds with gannets. The southernmost is the largest ; from the east end
extends a small ledge of rocks. Between these islands and Bryon Isle is a rocky ledge,
with a depth of from 4 to 7 fathoms. It is generally recommended to puss to the eastward
of the Bird Islets, unless a special advantage may be gained by passing between them and
Rryon. In sailing from these islands, toward Cape Rosier, you will have a depth of from
30 to 60 fathoms, to the distance of 18 leagues from the islands, and then lose soundings
until you approacli the c;ipe.

The Bird IsMs, S.S. W. i W. 4 miles.

The ZSIiAKD of ANTICOSTI. — This island is 41 leagues in length, between
the meridians of 61° 40' and 64° .32' ; and, with one exception, has no bay nor harbour
capable of affording shelter to sliipping. It is, generally, very high, and may be seen, in
clear weather, at 8 or 9 leagues ; but tlie haze is so great, in the summer season, that it can
seldom be distinguished at more than 5 leagues. The island is uncultivated, and covered
with immense forests, to which Indians repair, from the neighbouring continent, for the
purpose of shooting bears, which are numerous.

The powerful stream setting constantly from the River of St. Lawrence, and the heavy
snow-storms in the fall of the year, have unquestionably been the cause of many shipwrecks
on Anticosti. But, in order to relieve such as may be cast ashore here, government agents
have been appointed to reside at two different stations, all tlie year, who are furnished
with provisions for the use of those who have the misfortune to need them. Boards are
placed in different parts, describing the distance and direction to these friendly spots.
These establishments were made in the year 1809 ; the humane intention of which will be
honoured wherever it is made known, because the crews of vessels driven on shore here
have, sometimes, at the utmost peril of their lives, forsaken them to make their escape to
Gaspc. — Bouchett's Canada, 1815.

" One of these provision-posts is at two leagues to the S.E. from the west end of the
island, in Ellis Cove, or Grand Bay : the other is in Shallop Creek, three leagues to the
W.N.W. from the south point of tiie island, and at the two light-houses."

The government-agent lives on shore at the houses, and has, or should have, possession
of a sufficient quantity of provisions for the supply of shipwrecked persons, which are to be
issued, when required, in regular quantities to each man : the captain, &c. giving receipts
for the expenditure.

Early in 1829, a shipwreck was discovered to have taken place on the south shore of
the island, and it was then found that the establishment for saving lives, &c. had been
abandoned, in consequence of which, it appeared that 16 or 18 persons had perished from
hunger on the island, and no one was left to tell the melancholy tale. Circumstances,
however, afforded sufficient evidence to prove that the sufferers were the crew and passen-
gers of the ship Granicus, which sailed from Quebec on the 29th of October, 1828. The

,d»

90 ISLAND OF ANTICOSTI.

lives of those unfortunate persons would, in all probaMlity, have been preierved, hid not
the house which they succecd<'«l in reaching been abandoned and destitute of provisii 'iis.

Several other vessels, which sailed from Quebec nearly at the same time as the Gnu.icus,
liAve not since been heard of.*

We give these particulars as a caution. The light-house on the S.W. point has since
been established, and there can be no doubt that it will be eminently useful. I'rom the
light-house, Ellis Cove bears N.W. by N. (mafpiotic) eleven leagues.

On Heath Point, the S.E. extremity of Anticosti, is a new light-tower, which exhibits a
brilliant^jtf(/ light.

East Capf. is in lat. 40° 0' 25", long. 61° 39' .09'. It is a nerpendicular cliff, 100 feel
high, and at the extremity of the low land to the southward is lliath Point, on which stands
the light-house, exhibiting a brilliant fixed light at 100 feet; at a little distance it ap|)ears
like a sail, and is useful in marking the extent of the low land to vessels either to the E. or
W. of N.

Between Vox Bay to the north and East Cape the coast is bold and clear ; there is
anchorage in westerly winds between Cape Sand Top and East (^ape, at the distance of a
mile from the shore. Reef Point is the south point of Fox Bay, and from it runs a danger-
ous reef for 1 J mile, with only a few feet water, and 10 fathoms close to the enfl of it. A
house and store are at the N.VV. side of the head of the buy, and are the scenes of the suffer-
ings of the crew of the Granicut, mentioned above.

Table Head is remarkable by the hill, from which it derives its name; and from hence to
Cape Robert, 19 miles north-westward, the coast is broken into small bays, which afford
no anchorage.

From Cape Robert to Bear Head the bearing and distance is N.N.W. J W. G miles.
Between them is Bear Day, which is the best anchorage on the north of Anticosti, and this
is in 13 fathoms water; Cape Robert bearing S.E. -i S. and Bear Head N. by VV. J VV.

From Bear Head to Cape Observation, a bold, high, and remarkable he.idland, is 1Q.J
miles north-westward ; the coast between them is bold, with high, greyish white cliffs, and
small bays between.

Eleven miles north-westward from Cape Observation is Carleton Point, under which
vessels may anchor in fine weather, and can procure wood and water. Farther on is White
North Cliff, which appears like a white patch on the land, and can be seen at a distance
of 6 or 7 leagues. From Carleton Point to witiiiu four miles of While North Cliff there
are low cliffs. From White North Clifli'to Hiyh Cliff is 26 miles ; between them the coa.st is
low in front, with high ridges a short distance in the country. This part of the coast is very
dangerous, as the reefs extend for two miles outward, commencing at White North Cliff,
where they are half a mile broad, widening to about 12 miles from High Cliff, and termi-
nating about seven miles E. of it. High Cliff Cape is easily recognised, as it is the only
cliff on the north coast to which the sea does not come quite up to the base.

From High Cliff to North Cape is 13 miles; it is wooded, and of very moderate height.
The coast here trends round to Wf.st Point, between which are Hal reefs, extending a mile
off shore. It is in lat. 49° 52' 20", and long. 64° S2' 8".;

Between West Point and Cape Henry the reefs extend a mile and a quarter off shore,
and ought to be approached with caution.

ELLIS BAY is the only good anchorage in the island of Anticosti. It runs inland between
Cape Henry and Cape Eagle. Off these two capes run flat limestone reefs ; that from
Cape Henry is nearly a mile out to the south, and the other extends three-quarters of a
mile west of Cape Eagle. The entrance between them is 600 fathoms wide, between the
depths of three fathoms.

In approaching the bay with westerly winds, run down the reefs off Cape Henry in
ten fathoms, until the west side of the White Cliff, on the E. side of the bay, is on with

* A complete list of the wrecks which have occurred on Anlicosd would be a melancholy docu-
ment : but the instances already given are sufficient to show with how much caution the island should
be approached. In thick and foggy weather, the barque Flora was stranded here and lost on the
22nd of August, 1832, at about 15 miles from the light-house, when the latter could not be seen .
See Nautical Magazine, Febr. 1833,4>. 87.

d, I): (1 not

ovisi' '119.

iC Granic-us,

t has siricft
Trom the

h exhibits a

liff, 100 feet

viiicl) standa

;e it appears

to the E. or

ar; there is
listance of a
ns a daiigcr-
n«l of it. A
of the sufitT-

rom hence to
which afford

■ W. 6 iniU's.
josti, and this
VV. i VV.

dland, is IQi
lite chifs, and

under which
r on is While
at a distance
h Cliff there
m the coast is
coast is very
North Cliff,
, and termi-
|it is the only

Serate heiglit.
jnding a mile

|er off shore,

[and between
that from
juarters of a
Ibetween the

[pe Henry in
is on with

Lncholy docu-

1 island should

lost on the

not be seen .

NOHTIIKRN SIIOUE OF THE OULF.

the E. side of the wostornmost of two hills at .i dislanco, which li

near tho north coast

hftwcen lh« norih and west points ; then hani up with tlics« marks on, which will lead
into smooth water, clos<« under Cape Henry Hccf, m 3i fathoms, until (Jamncho Ilouso
he.nn N. by K., and llicn btvir up for it, and anchor in .'J fulhoniK, muddy hotioni, alxiul
half a milt' from the tiats at tlie head uf tiie buy, and 'M>0 latlionis from dio>o on eitlicr side.

lit'curie Uivcr ia a very small stream at the htad of a small cove, affording sholtfr for
boats, and is 12 miles S.K. from Kllis Cove; and seven miles furliier, in the same direc-
tion, are St. Mart/ Cliff*, which are 21 miles from South. West I'oint. Oburvntion Hirer
is 5\ miles northward of this point, and is the largest stream on the island; on the north
of this river are some conspicuous sandy cliffs. Hetvveen Souih-VVest Point and Kllis Cove
there is no anchorajfe, and off the shore there are reefs of Hat limestone, t'XU'iding fully a
mile, and often 10 or I'i fathoms water close to them.

South-We»t Point is a low projecting mound of limestoni*', having a sr/iall cove on its
north side, which forms it into a peninsula; on the western i\ir«'mity of the poinf stands
the light-house, a conical tower, 7:^ feet high, and the lantern elevaffd loo feet above the
sea. It shows a brilliant light, which revolves once in a minute, and is lighted every year
from the 2.5th of March to the last day in December. To the light-house is attached a
provision- post, which forms a very conspicuous land- mark.

Salt Lake Boy has hne sandy beaches, enclosing lagoons, into which the tide flows. It
is 11 miles south-eastward of the S.VV. point, and off if, in the centre of the bay, with its
N.W. point bearing N.E. ) E. 1} mile distant, there is very indifferent anchorage in seven
fathoms. Thirty-two miles from South- VV est Point is Pavilion River; in this distance the
coast is the boldest on the soutli of the island, and should be approached with caution.

Shallop Creek lies 13 miles N.W. of the South Point, and the houses of the provision-
post are here ; between this and the south point the coast is very low, and may be ap-
proached safely by using the lead.

South Point is a cliff of sandy clay, about 60 feet high ; a reef extends south of it for
nearly 1 ) mile. The light on Heath Point and Cormorant Point bearing K. by 8. in one clears
this. Cormorant Point bears K.N.E. 16.i miles from South Point, and \V. by N. 6 miles
from Heath I'oint, on which is the light-house. Off Heath Point there is one of the best
open anchorages on the island. The best berth is in 10 fathoms, sand and mud, with the
light-house bearing E. by N. and Cormorant Point nothing to the west of W.N.W. The
vessel will then be two miles offshore, and sheltered from all winds between W.N.W. to
E. by N. round by north.

At Anticosti the tide flows, on the full and change, at 1 h.43m. ; it runs tide and
quarter. Springs rise 10, and neaps 4 feet.

III.— The NORTHERN SHORE of the GULF, fhom FORTEAU POINT to

CAPE WHITTLE.

The Coast of Labrador, which is described in this section, is exceedingly dangerous,
and, till the recent surveys, was very imperfectly known ; there are, however, several good
harbours which can be entered by large vessels, and which are used by the fishers that
frequent this coast.

The whole of the land consists of granitic rocks, without trees, except in the heads of
the bays, where small spruce and birch trees are sometimes found. It is broken into
numberless inlets and bays, and fringed with islands and rocks, forming in some parts so
intricate a labyrinth, that no ships of any size can find their way. The dangers of tlie coast
are much increased by the fogs which accompany the prevalent southerly winds.

There are very few permanent inhabitants, but the coast is much frequented during the
season by cod, seal, and salmon fishers. Cod is abundant, especially to the east of ]\Iis-
tanoque, and several vessels also visit the coast to procure the eggs of the sea-fowl, which
are taken principally to Halifax. The permanent fur-trading and seal and salmonr fishing
establishments are at Bradore, Esquimaux Bay, St. Augustine Harbour, Little Fish Har-
bour, and Etaraamu ; there are but few other inhabitants than at these places.

Tlie coasts of the Strait of Belle Isle, &c., to Forteau Point, at its western entrance, were
described on page 78 ; we here resume the description, proceeding westward.

NORTHERN SHORE OF THE GULF.

Four miles W.N.W. from Forteau Point is 5/. Clair Bay. There are a reef and a Xovr
islet off its eastern point, to the S.W. ; this bay affords no shelter.

Blanc Sablon Bay.— Three miles west from St. Clair Bay is Blanc Sablon Bay ; it is
exposed to westerly winds, but is sheltered by Wood Island and Greenly Island to the
S.W. It is an unsafe ancliorage, particularly in the fall of the year, and during winds from
the west, which send into it a very heavy sea. It is a mile deep, and If mile wide ; and
on a projecting point at the head of the bay, are the buildings of the fishing establishment
of the bay.

Wood Island lies off Blanc Sablon Bay ; i* is lowr and barren, and about 1§ mile long,
and has some fishing establishments on its east side.

Greenly Island lies IJ mile west of Wood Island, and between them is a clear
channel ; and off the south point of Gr.;enly Island, at the distance of about 200 fathoms,
is a rocky shoal. On its east side is a cove sometimes used by the fishers, but this anchorage,
as well as that under Wood Island, is not good.

One mile and a half westward of Blanc Sablon Bay is Gulch Cove, a small inlet of the
main ; there are some rocks off its mouth which shelter it ; it is so narrow, that there is
not room for the smallest schooner to turn about in it ; hence the vessels which frequent it
are warped out stern foremost. From Blanc Sablon Bay to Grand Point is 2^- miles. Off
it is a dangerous reef of rocks, 350 fathoms to the south and west ; and eastward of it, for
1 J miles, there are rocks above and under water, extending off the shore for a quarter of a
mile in some places.

From Greenly Island to Southmakers Ledge the course is W. J S., [S.ir. by ir.J and
the distance 128 miles, but the course between them on this bearing is not safe, as it will
take a vessel too near the Murr Rocks, and would pass just within the St. Mary Rocks.
The best course would be W. by S. 128 miles, until past the Southmakers Ledge.

Perroquet Island hes N. by W. I W. li mile from Grand Point. It is high, and is
frequented by vast flocks of puffins. It is nearly half a mile from the land, but there is no
channel between.

One mile and a half in the same direction from Grand Point, is the edge of the shoals on
the south of Ledges Inland. Opposite to the centre of this island, on the main, to tlie
east, is an establishment which is about If mile N.N.E. from the west side of Perroquet
Island.

BRADORE HARBOUR is on the north-east side of Ledges Island : the passage to it
is from the south, between a chain of islands off the island, which are quite bold to, forming
the western side of the channel, and the coast of the main, on which is the before-mentioned
establishment, the eastern side. There is no passage to this harbour to the north or west
of Ledges Island, as the space is crowded with rocks and dangers, although there is a
narrow and very deep channel for small vessels close on the island. To enter Bradore
Harbour, coming from the east, give Grand Point a berth of half a mile, to avoid the reefs
lying off it, or taking care that the west extreme of Perroquet Island does not bear to the
west of north; Perroquet Island may be passed as near as a quarter of a mile; having
passed this, haul towards the entrance till the west extreme of Greenly Island is half a point
open of the west extreme of Perroquet [siand, or bearing S. ^ W., which will clear the
Gull Rock and Ledge, which bear S.W^. by W., and are distant 280 and 490 fathoms
respectively from Point Jones, on which the houses stand. The rock just covers at high
water, and therefore can always be seen ; and tiie ledge has 2 fathoms least water, and
therefore is extremely dangerous. On the west side of this ledge, the west ends of Perroquet
and Greenly Island are in one, and they may therefore be avoided by the course above-
mentioned. Proceed on this course N. ^ E., till Jones's house bears E.N.E. and the
northern islet on the east appears like the north extreme of Ledges Island, N.E. by N. ;
then steer for the latter, leaving the Gull Rock to the east, and looking out for a small rock
lying off an island on the opposite side, after passing which, the channel is clear, keeping
nearer the islets than the main. A run of about 700 fathoms from the houses, will bring
you opposite the entrance of the harbour, when you must haul sharp round to the westward,
between the islets into the harbour ; this entrance is 80 fathoms wide and 8 fathoms deep.
The harbour is perfectly landlocked, but will accommodate but a small number of vessels ;
the depth being from 4 to 17 fathoms, muddy bottom.

In approaching Bradore Harbour from the west, beware of the reefs, which extend three-
quarters of a mile to the south-west of Ledges Island.

if and a low

n Bay ; it is
sland to the
T winds from
e wide ; and
jstablishnient

1§ mile long,

m is a clear

200 fathoms,

lis anchorage,

lU inlet of the
, that there is
eh frequent it
2 5- miles. Off
ward of it, for
a quarter of a

'. by TF.] and

safe, as it will

, Mary Rocks.

icdge.

s high, and is

but there is no

if the shoals on

> main, to the

of Perroquet

passage to it
Ad to, forming
fore-mentioned
north or west
lugh there is a
lenter Bradore
ivoid the reefs
lot bear to the
mile ; having
is half a point
will clear the
490 fathoms
!overs at high
»st water, and
of Perroquet
;ourse above-
In.E. and the
N.E. by N. ;
[r a small rock
;lear, keeping
tes, will bring
[the westward,
fathoms deep.
»er of vessels ;

extend three*

BRADORE BAY TO BONNE ESPERANCE HARBOUR. 93

At the back of Bradore Bay, 4 or 5 miles from the north-east end of it, are the Bradore
HillSf the highest land on this coast, that to the north-west being 1264 feet above the sea.

BRADORE BAY is 5i miles wide from the south of Ledges Island to Point Belles
Amours, bearing N.W. by W. [ West] from it. This bay is very dangerous, from the heavy
sea sent into it by southerly winds, but on its western side is a beautiful little harbour, Belles
Amours Harbour, in which a great number of vessels can lie perfectly landlocked. Water
can be procured here, but firewood is very scarce on this coast.

The channels to this harbour are formed by Point Belles Amours on the south-west ; it
is a mound of bare granite, 60 or 70 feet high ; Stony Point, low and green, bearing
E.N.K. ^ E., 1^ mile distant from it, and the Flat Rocks lying 1^ mile S. by E. from
Stony Point, and 1^ mile E.S.E. ^ E. from Point Belles Arnours : these form the east and
west passages to the harbour.

To enter it from the east, steer N. by W. | W., leaving the Flat Rocks a quarter of a
mile to the west, until you approach the east side of Harbour Point, a bare granite hill,
150 feet high, with several beacons of stones on it, within 100 fathoms, taking care not to
approach Stony Point within a cable's length ; then steer north till you are abreast of the
rock above water off the sandy part of the point ; then bear a little to the westward, so as
to bring the east side of Harbour Point and Pond Point in one; Pond Pc. i is nearly
opposite Stony Point. Keep them in one to clear the north extreme of the Flat, until ]\Iark
Point, the extreme on the north side of the harbour, comes on with Peak Point, a remark-
able rocky point in Middle Bay, bearing VV. ^ S. When this mark comes on, haul sharp
round to the westward, keeping at less than a cable's length from the high north shore,
until you are well within the sandy spit, when you may anchor any where to the south-
ward, in from 5 to 7 fathoms, muddy bottom.

Between Point Belles Amours and the Flat Rocks, there is a rocky patch of J 3 feet
water; there are other patches of 3^ fathoms between this and the point. To enter the
harbour by this western passage, which is preferable in westerly winds, take care not to
shut in Stony Point behind Point Belles Amours, for fear of the Middle Ledges, which lie
off Middle Point, the outermost 600 fathoms off shore. Pass Point Belles Amours at the
distance of 200 fathoms, and keep at that distance from the shore till past Pond Point ;
then bear away to Harbour Point, and proceed as before directed.

Middle Point lies 1^ mile W. \ N. from Point Belles Amours, and 1^ mile E.S.E,
from Five Leagues Point ; between which and Middle Point is JMiddle Bay, a fine open
roadstead, free from all danger. It runs N.N.E. for 2 miles, and is above a mile wide ;
the depth is between 4 and 13 fathoms, sandy bottom.

Five Leagues Point is the south-west extremity of a peninsula, which is remarkable from
an isolated and precipitous hill, 200 feet high, three-quarters of a mile north-east from its
extremity; and from the point the two Barrier Reefs extend for I4 mile to the westward,
but are not joined to it; there is also a reef, partly uncovered, running for a quarter of a
mile to the south-west of the point. These are cleared by keepirg the south extremes of
Ledge and Belles Amours Points in one, bearing E. | S.

Five Leagues Harbour is to the west of the point of the same name, but is quite unfit for
any vessel of moderate size. Salmon Islet lies VV. by N. 3 j miles from Five Leagues Point ;
it is nearly joined by a spit of sand to Caribou Island, off which the shoals extend nearly
400 fathoms to the S.E. Between this island and the main, to the east of it, is the eastern
entrance to Salmon Bar/, which has but 6 feet depth at low water ; the other entrance to
the bay is from Bonne Esperance round to the north of Caribou Island, in which is plenty
of water, and is well sheltered.

BONNE ESPERANCE HARBOUR is the best harbour on the coast, and lies on the
west of Caribou Island. Whale Island lies N.W, by W. ^ W. [fV. ^ S.] 18^ miles from
Greenly Island, at the entrance of the strait of Belle Isle, and all vessels bound to Bonne
Esperance endeavour to make this island, which is the south-easternmost of the Esquimaux
Islands. It has a roundish hill near its centre, on which is a pile of stones, as there is also,
on almost every summit of these islands. Whale Island bears W.S.W. J W. [S. W. ^ 5.]
4J miles from Salmon Islet before-mentioned. Between them lie the islands which form
the harbour. They are very steep, and of bare granite. Goddard Island lies to the south-
vest of Caribou Island, and joined to it and another islet by shoal water; it has a small
rock off it, 130 fathoms to the south-west, and 350 fathoms to the south of it is Goddard
Bock, which dries at low water. On the other side of this channel, opposite to these rocks.

■At

ill

ifli

94» NORTHERN SHORE OF THE GULF.

are the Watchy a small uncovered rock, and Breaking Ledge, which just covers at high
water. The entrance to the iiarbour between these, is 460 fathoms wide, and 17 fathoms
deep. Beacon Islet lies W.S.W. { W. oi)e mile from Goddard Islet ; it is rather low, and
a pile of stones on it. Three-quarters of a mile west of it is Red Head, an island bearing
E.N.E. [E. hy S.] 900 fathoms from Whale Island. Fish Islet lies between them. To the
north-east of lied Head Island is Chain Island, formed of two peninsulas, and beyond it
Bonne Esperance Island, three-quarters of a mile long. Lion Island lies a quarter of a mile
east of Bonne Esperance Island, and between them is a low islet, leaving a narrow and
difficult channel between it and Bonne Esperance Island. 'Off the east side of Lion Island
is the IVhelp Hock, which is always uncovered, and 50 fathoms from the island. Between
this rock on the west, and Goddard and Caribou Islands on] the east, may be termed the
inner entrance from the main channel.

To enter the Bonne Esperance Harbour, being to the eastward, and the wind from the
east, stand toward Caribou Island, and when off the south side, and half a mile from it, the
south sides of Beacon and Red Head Isles, and the north side of Fish Islet, will be in one,
bearing W. J N. Bear up on this mark, or else steer west, keeping the lead going, and a
sharp look-out for Goddard Rock. You will have about 9 fathoms at low water, until past
this, when it will deepen suddenly to 15 or 19 fathoms, and then you will be in the channel.
Bear immediately N. by E., and Whelp Rock will be right ahead in one with the west side
of House Island, lying close under the main land, about a mile from Lion Island ; it has a
house on it. Keep on this bearing till past the Bold Rock, off the south-west point of
Goddard Island, bearing a little eastward to clear Lion Bank and Whelp at a cable's
length, and then run up W.N.W. close along the inner sides of Lion and Bonne Esperance
Islands into the harbour, anchoring where ydu please, in 12 to 16 fathoms, over a muddy
bottom. 1 h.-^ whole bay may be considered as a harbour ; wood and water may be had in
abundance f'oin the main land.

In coming from the west with a leading wind, keep half a mile from the south point of
Whale Island, and steer E. by N., to avoid two 4-fathom dangers ; one the Whale Patch,
lying half a mile E. by S. from the centre of W'hale Island, the other two-thirds of a mile
south of Beacon Island, called the Middle Patch. These may be avoided by not coming
within a less depth than 10 fathoms, or by keeping southward of the track above-mentioned.
Keep on this bearing till Whelp Rock and House Island are in one, bearing N. by E. ;
then haul in upon that bearing, and proceed as before. There are several other entrances
into Bonne Esperance Harbour, between the surrounding islands.

ESQUIMAUX BAY and RIVER lie to the north of Bonne Esperance Harbour, Esgui-
matix Island lies in the middle of the bay, and forms, with the main to the east, a very
narrow channel, which runs l,^ mile N.N.E., and then opens into a wide space with two
islets in it. The mouth of the River and the trading post may be reached by keeping along
the east coast. The trading post is on a sandy point, backed by spruce trees, 2 miles above
Esquimaux Island. The river abounds with salmon. The approach to this river from the
westward is so intricate, from the number of islands, that no directions can be given.

ESQUIMAUX ISLANDS.— These islands commence at Caribou Island, and extend
for 14 miles to the westward. They are generally bare of trees, and are of all sizes and
heights under 200 feet. They form an endless number of channels, which it would be
impossible to describe ; and off them are several small rocks and shoals, some of which are
fully 4 miles from the main land.

Proceeding westward from Whale Island 4J miles W. by N., {^W.S.PF.'] we come to
the Fort Rocks, which are low, and extend 650 fathoms to the south-west of Old Fort
Island, which is of moderate height, and 1 1 mile in diameter. The only channel through
the islands, between Whale and Old Fort Island, is the IFhale Channel, between Whale
and Tent Islands.

Mermot Islet is I| mile W.N.W. of the outer Fort Rock ; it is low, and has a ledge
off it a quarter of a mile to the south-west. Midway between Fort Rocks and Mermot
Islet, the course in through Old Fort Channel will be N.E. % N., with very deep water the
whole way to Old Fort Bay, which runs toward the north-east for 4 miles, with deep water
to its head. ..

The Dog Islands lie to the west of the Fort Rocks ; they are very numerous, and are
surrounded with innumerable rocks and shoals, although there is anchorage between the
northern of them and the main, which can be got at easily with a westerly wind from

CUMBERLAND HARBOUR.

ers at high
17 fathoms
er low, and
and bearing
em. To tiie

I beyond it
terof a mile
narrow and
Lion Island
I. Between

termed the

nd from the
3 from it, the

II be in one,
going, and a
?r, until past

the channel,
the west side
nd ; it has a
vest point of
at a cable's
le Esperance
ver a muddy
lay be had in

)uth point of
Vhale Patch,
irds of a mile
|r not coming
e-mentioned.
,g N. by E. ;
er entrances

)Our, Esqui-
east, a very

^ce with two
»eping along
miles above
ver from the

jgiven.

and extend
)11 sizes and
lit would be
lof which are

|we come to
jf Old Fort
[nel through
veen Whale

Ihas a ledge
Ind Mermot
Ip water the
1 deep water

V\3, and are
letween the
Iwind from

Shecatica, by running under the main land, in the channel between it and the ledges lying
off it.

The Eider Inlands lie to the north of the Mermot Islands, and east of the Dog Islands.

From the Outer Dog Rocks the Porpoise Rocks lie W.N.W. ^ W. 3} miles, and are three-
quarters of a mile offshore; the Boulet Islet lies 3 J miles further on in tiie same direction.
It is a small round-backed islet, green at the top, and about 70 feet high. Together with
the opening to Lobster Bay, t^ mile E.N.E. from it, it serves to point out to a vessel its
position off the coast. Lobster Bay is a narrow inlet running 4 miles to the north-east, and
towards its upper end there is anchorage.

The Peril Rock is the outermost danger on this part of the coast. It lies IJ mile from
S.S.W. from the Boulet, and dries at half tide.

Rocky Bay runs ll mile inland to the N.E. by E., and is one mile east of Lobster Bay.
There is a small cove and fish stage, which is well sheltered, one mile up it, on the S.E.
side. To the west of Lobster Bay is Napelepee Bay, which is very similar to it, and tuns
N.E. for 4^ miles. Being open to the sea, there is no shelter with a southerly wind ; and
is, as well as those to the east of it, too narrow to beat out of, with a contrary wind.

Shecatica Island lies VV.N.W. 3^ miles from Boulet Island, and contiguous to it on the
west is Mistanoque Island, and lying close to the main. Mistanoqne Bay lies directly behind
the island of the same name, and runs inland 3 miles to the N.E. ; towards the head the
depth decreases, so as to be convenient for anchoring.

Opposite the mouth of the bay, on the north side of the island, is Mistanoque Harbour,
with a depth of 15 to 20 fathoms. Vessels may anchor in less water a little to the east,
between the east point of the bay and the island. Enter hlet lies nearly half a mile to the
west of Mistanoque, and Diver Islet lies off its western side; and to the south of which, a
reef of rocks runs out 130 fathoms. These islets are low, and 400 fathoms to the N.W. of
them is a group of small islands, forming with the others, the western channel to the har-
bour, which is quite clear. There is nothing immediately outside Shecatica, Mistanoque,
Enter, or Diver Islands; so that no other directions seem necessary, than to run through
the centre of either channel which may be preferred.

Shag Islet bears W. f S. 7^ miles from Mistanoque. It is the best guide for making the
latter from the west, as the Boulet, &c., is from the east. It is small and high, with a
round peaked hill, looking green in the middle, and is very remarkable. To the S.E. by E.
from it there are many rocks; Shag Hock, the outermost, is 2 miles from it. When three-
quarters of a mile south of the Shag Rock, the south point of Shecatica will bear E.N.E.
8 miles off, and this course will take a mile to the south of the Three Rocks lying midway
between them.

CUMBERLAND HARBOUR bears N. by E. J E. 3 miles from the outer Shag Rock.
It is an excellent harbour, the best and easiest of access on this coast. It may be known
by a remarkable high hill on the main land, 3^ leagues north from the entrance of the
harbour ; it is the highest in the neighbourhood, and resembles a castle at the top. The
harbour should be approached between the Shag Rock and the Three Rocks, which bear
E.N.E. 2 3 miles from the other. The islands forming the harbour are of moderate height,
the easternmost making in two round hills. In sailing in there is no danger but what
shows, except a small rock, which lies S. by W. rather more than half a mile from the
west point of the entrance. As soon as you arrive within its outer points, haul over to the
west side, bear N. by W. ^ W. three-quarters of a mile to the inner point on the west, and
then haul to the eastward and anchor where you please. Water can be procured here.

The coast at this part, lying between Mistanoque and Cape Mecattina, is broken into
immense bays and inlets, the islands being very large, of moderate height, and partially
covered with moss. The outer coast is lined with small islets and rocks, which are very
difficult to pass through, while within them, there is a great depth of water in the intricate
channels and bays between the islands and the main.

Sandy Habbour lies N.N.W. ^ W. 2| miles from Shag Island, in the large island of
the same name. To sail into it, pass to the east of the Egg Rocks, lying !§ mile N.W, by
W. from Shag Island, and keep the starboard point of the bay, bearing N.E. more than
half a mile from Egg Island, on board in going in. You will then see a small uncovered
rock to the north, lying toward the east side off the entrance to the harbour, and which
may be passed on either side, and then steer N.N.E. ^ E. for the harbour ; and when
within the entrance, haul to the N.W. and anchor in 5 or G fathoms.

NORTHERN SHORE OF THE GULF.

Port Augustine is very small, with a narrow and intricate entrance. There is a seal-
fishing and trading post here. The entrance to it is to the west of Augtutine Chains a
chain of small islets, the outer one a smooth round rock ; the south extremity of the chain
bearing W. | S. 7 miles from Shag Island.

Eagle Harbour, on Long Island, is not fit for anything but small vessels, the entrances
being narrow and intricate, and this part of the coast is very dangerous, on account of the
numerous islets and rocks off it.

Wood Island, so called from its being covered with wood, lies off the entrance of Fish
Harbour, N. i VV. 4 J miles from the Bottle, on the north of Great Mecattina Island. The
entrance to Fish Harbour is on either side of Wood Island, the northern being the best,
there being a ledge to the south of the island which p.lways shows ; and a rock of 2 feet
one-third of a mile S.S.E. J E from the east point of the island. Wood and water may
be obtained, and there is a trading establishment here.

Ha- 11a Bay is at the western end of the islands which hide the mainland from between
it and Mistanoque. It runs N.E. by N. for eight miles, and has several good anchorages,
but is out of the way of vessels. Seal Point, the western side of the entrance, is a mile
N.E. of Wood Inland.

GREAT MECATTINA ISLAND is to the South of Ha-Ha Bay, and is 2 miles S.E.
from lied Point, the nearest part of the main. It is 3^ miles long, north and south,

3 miles wide, and about 500 feet high in the centre ; it is granitic, and the position of the
island, with relation to the hi<jh land inside of Cape Mecattina, 4 or 3 miles W.N.W.,
distinguish it from any other island in the Gulf.

Nearly joined to its north point, is the Bottle, a high round islet, with a small rock close
off it; to the N.W. by N., and half a mile in the same direction, is a rocky shoal of 4
fathoms. Blujf Head is the high N.E. point of the island; and between it and the Bottle
is a cove, one mile deep, called Island Harbour, sheltered from the east by a cluster of
small islets and rocks, leaving a passage on either side of them. The anchorage is near
the head of the cove, in from 14 to 20 fathoms.

Treble Hill Island lies E. by S. about 3 miles from the centre of the island. Flat
Island lies S.S.E. ^ E. 3 miles from the south point, and the Murr Islets lie S.W. about

4 miles from the same point, and a quarter of a mile N.E. by E. from the easternmost of
them, is a ledge on which the sea generally breaks. These islands are quite bold to, and
swarm with sea-fowl.

Mecattina Harbour is small and safe, lying between Mecattina Island and the main-
land, 3 J miles N.W. by W. \ VV. from Round Head, a high peninsula on the west side of
Great Mecattina Island, and 2J miles N.E. from Cape Mecattina. The eastern entrance
is rendered difficult, from a reef of rocks running across it to the northward, and should
not be attempted but in fine weather, as the slightest mistake would place the vessel on
shore. The western entrance is in the small bay between Mutton and Mecattina Islands,
but there is no anchorage in it ; and to enter the harbour it is only necessary to keep in the
middle, there being no danger, to pass safely through the narrow western entrance. The
depth within is 6 or 7 fathoms, but 3 fathoms can only be carried through the entrance.
Wood and water can be" procured, and it is much frequented by whale fishers.

To the west of Mecattina harbour is Portage Bayy lying 2 miles N. by E. from the
south point of Cape Mecattina. It runs in about IJ mile to the northward, and affords
some shelter. In the mouth of the bay is a small islet, towards the east side, which forms
a small harbour, the western entrance to which is the best. In the approach to this harbour
there are two 15-feet ledges to be avoided, one 400 fathoms S. \ W. from the west end of
Mutton Island, and the other half a mile N.E. by E. from the Southern Seal Rock, which
is three-quarters of a mile N.E. by N. from the south point of Cape Mecattina. Inside
the bay, just within the entrance, there is also a snug cove on the east side for small vessels.

Great Mecattina Point. — The S.E. extremity is in lat. 50° 44' 10" north, and long.
58° 59' 55" west. It is a long and very remarkable promontory of the mainland, and of
moderate height for some distance to the northward of its extremity ; but about 3 miles to
the north, it rises to the height of 685 feet above the sea, and the high land of Mecattina^
at the back of the Mecattina harbour, is the highest land upon this coast.

From the point there are some islands and rocks, extending for 2.J miles nearly in a line
S.S.E. \ E. from the southern extreme of the promontory.

Little Mecattina Island. — The eastern point of this island lies W.S.W. J W. [S, W.']

is a seal-
Chairiy a
the chaiD

( entrances
)unl of the

ce of Fiah
land. The
g the best,
i of 2 feet
water may

)m between
anchorages,
, is a mile

! miles S.E.
and south,
ition of the
s W.N.VV.,

11 rock close
shoal of 4
i the Bottle
a cluster of
age is near

sland,

iS.W
>
d to, and

Flat
about
ternmost of

the main-
west side of
•n entrance
and should
vessel on
ina Islands,
keep in the
•ance. The
entrance.

from the
and affords
hich forms
his harbour
west end of
ock, which
a. Inside
all vessels.
|, and long,
id, and of
13 miles to
lecattina,

|y in a line

HARE HARBOUR. 97

15 miles from Great Mecattina Point, and between them is an extensive bay, filled with
innumerable islands and rocks, among which no vessel could find her way, and alt
description is therefore useless.

Little Mecattina Island is nearly divided into two parts by the Baj/ de Salahcrry, on its
western side ; the northern portion is very low, composed of sand, covered wilh moss, and
connected to the southern part by a very narrow isthmus. The south part is remarkable
land, the highest part of which is 800 feet above the sea, and is visible from a great distance,
while the islands and coast around it being lower, cannot be discerned so far.

To the N.N.W. of the island is the Little Mecattina River, which is large, and falls 30
feet over granite, 2^ miles above the island. There is no channel for vessels between the
island and the main.

II ARE HARBOUR is on the east of the island, and has several rocks and ledges in it;
it is open to the south, but the swell there is not large enough to affect a vessel.

In coming from the east to this harbour, the outermost danger in the space between it
and Cape Mecattina is the Fin Rocks, lying W.S.W. J W. 10 miles from Cape Mecattina,
and E. .^ N. 5^ miles from Point Antrobus, the S.E. extreme of Little Mecattina Island,
and between which is a large open bay, called the Bai/ of Rocks. With an easterly wind,
these Fin Rocks ought to be passed at the distance of half a mile. After passing them, 2J
miles westward, the Scale Rock will be 400 fathoms to the right, and the fail Rocks three-
quarters of a mile distant; and one mile further on the same course, the Single Rock, just
above water, will be three-quarters of a mile to the right, and which should not be approached
nearer than a quarter of a mile, on account of three sunken rocks around it, 150 fathoms
distant. When abreast of this, bear north-westward by degrees, till half a mile west of it,
when the entrance to the harbour will be quite clear, and to the W.N.W. It lies between
Doll/ and Price Islands, and within the entrance, about 170 fathoms, on the east side, is
the JVatch Rock, above water, and Bold Islet, one-third of a mile from the entrance. On
the west side, bearing N. \ W. 200 fathoms from the east extreme of Daly Island, which is
the west side of the entrance, lies Safe Rock, above water, and nearly midway between it
and Bold Islet, is Rag Ledge, which just dries at low water. These are the principal
dangers near the entrance, and when within them you can choose the anchorage, by the
lead, avoiding some 4 to 6-fathom rocky patches. In coming here from the west, after
passing one-quarter of a mile off Staffs Islet, lying off the east side of Little Mecattina
Island, the entrance will bear N. f W. one mile distant, and it cannot be mis-
taken, as it is the only channel through which you can see clear into the harbour, the other
channel between Daly and Price Islands to the east of the proper channel, being intricate
and unsafe, and therefore must be avoided.

Little Mecattina Cove is on the east side of the island, to the N.N.E. of Point Antrobus,
but it is small and deep. Water can be procured at its head.

The South shore of Little Mecattina Island, to Cape MacKinnon, is high and bold, with
remarkable beaches of white boulder stones occasionally ; and to the west of the island is
Aylmer Sound, in which there is no danger that cannot be seen.

The Sprai/ Reef, awash at low water, lies W.N.W. | W. 1^ mile from Cape Mackinnon.
There is no good anchorage in Aylmer Sound, until beyond the Doj/le Islands, behind
which is Lou Road, and Louisa Harbour, which is about 200 fathoms wide at the entrance,
and vessels can ride within, in from 3 to 5 fathoms, over a muddy bottom. It is sheltered
from the W.S.W. by the Doyle Islands, and the approach to it is to the east of them, keeping
them aboard, to clear some ledges lying in the entrance of Salaherry Bay to the N.E.

Cape Airey is the south point of the Harrington Islands, and bears W, I S. \S.W. J W.^
5 miles from the south point of Little Mecattina Island ; and 2 miles S. by W. ^ W. from
it is Black Reef, of low black rocks above water ; and W. by N. 1 ^ mile from Cape Airey,
is Major Reef, awash, which is 4^ miles from the Netagumu Islands, on the same line of
bearing. These islands are small, with a remarkable mound on the largest of them.
Netagamu JRtrcr bears N. by W. If mile from the islands, and may be known by the
sandy beach, backed with a thick growth of spruce trees on either side the entrance, which is
narrow and deep, and 1 ^ mile from which are the falls, 50 feet high. A bar of sand extends
a mile from the entrance, and is extremely dangerous to boats ; it has 3 feet water on if.

The St. Mary Islands lie W.S.W. from Cape Airey, 10 miles distant ; they are of bare
steep granite, and bold all round. The Cliff Island and Boat Islands lie to the west of them.

Wataoheistic Island lies to the north of these ; it is 3 miles long, and above ij mile

i:i;

NORTHERN SHORE OF THE GULF

broad, and lies in the mouth of a large bay, forming a large sound within it, in which there
are several good anchoring places. These cannot be approached without seven miles of
dangerous navip;ation, and therefore should not be attempted but under absolute necessity.
To the north of the St. Mary Islands are several islets, rocks, and reefs ; Cove Island is
the largest, bearing 4 miles N.N.W. from the north point, and there are thickly scattered
rocks both above and below water, between it and the Netagamu Islands. The eastern
entrance between Watagheistic Island and the main, is narrow and intricate, but the
wesiern entrance is half a mile wide; and though there are several rocks and ledges in it,
yet it can be safely sailed through with proper care ; but there is no good anchorage on the
loute to, or outside either entrance to Watagheistic.

St. Mary 'Reefs are four very dangerous'ledges, just under water, extending a mile,
N. and S. ; the southernmost bearing S.W. % S. 3i miles from the S.W. extreme of the
Boat Islands, W.S.W. J W., and 6 miles from the S.W. extreme of the St. Mary Islands.
The Tender Rock is small and awash ; it lies N. by VV. i VV. a mile from the northernmost
St. Mary Reef, and 2 miles S. J W. from the westernmost of the Middle Islands, which
lie within the Boat Islands, between them and Watagheistic.

Between the Middle Islands and Wapitagun, the coast is broken into coves, and lined
with islets and rocks innumerable, among which nothing but a very small vessel, perfectly
acquainted with the coast, could find her way.

The Etamamu River enters ihe sea at 4 miles N.E. from Wapitagun. It is rapid, and
there is a trading and salmon-fishing post at its mouth.

Mistassini Rock is a remarkable block of granite, resembling a mortar, and sometimes
called the Gun by the fishers. It is an excellent guide to the eastern entrance to Wapitagun,
from which it is distant three-quarters of a mile to the westward.

Southmakers Ledge lies S. by VV. 3 J miles from the Mistassini Rock, West [5. IT. bi/
W. A IT.] 9 miles from St. Mary Rocks, and 6 J miles S.E. \ E. from Cape Whittle.
The course from this dangerous reef to Greenly Island, near the entrance of the Strait of
Belle Isle, is E. \ N. [JV.^. by E.] distance 128 miles. It is a small rock, which is never
entirely covered in moderate weather; the extent of the reef around it is 130 fathoms
E. and W. and 50 fathoms N. and S., and there is no danger near it. The soundings are
very irregular round it.

WAPITAGUN HARBOUR is a long narrow channel between the outer islands of
Wapitagun, which are of bare granite, and appear as but one island, and Wapitagun Island
to the northward of them, and is completely sheltered ; the western entrance to the harbour
is sharp round the western extremity of the outer Wapitagun Islands, which lies E. f S.
from Cormorant Point, tiOO fathoms off. This entrance is about 80 fathoms wide, and
the harbour itself is narrow and unsuitable for vessels above 150 or 800 tons.

To enter it from the southward with an easterly wind, bear for the eastern entrance,
which has been pointed out ; there is nothing in the way. On the west side of the entrance
there is a rock and ledge which shows, and therefore you must keep on the east side,
steering N.W. by N. one-third of a mile; within the entrance there are three small islets,
and to the northward a cove running in to the westward, round a steep rocky point, which
has a sunken rock close off it to the S.E. Leave all three islets to the left, passing close to
them, and bear up to the westward between them and the steep rocky point ; this is the
safest passage, but a good look-out ought to be kept.

To enter the harbour by the western entrance with a westerly wind, run down between
the Southmakers Ledge and the Cormorant Rocks, which lie to the south of Lake Island,
bearing to the north to pass the S.E. Cormorant Rock, at the distance of half a mile.
This rock will be readily known from the Nest Rock, covered with birds and whitened by
them; and 1 20 fathoms to the west of it, four hundred fathoms to the N.E. of the S.E.
Cormorant, is a 2-f\Uhom ledge, which must be left on the left. Then haul to westward a
little, so as to leave the Slime Rock or N.E. Cormorant, not less than 300 fathoms on your
left, to avoid another 2-fathom ledge, bearing N.E. \ N. one-quarter of a mile from that
rock. Passing close to the east of this, steer for the islet in the channel, which you will see
between the west extreme of the outer Wapitagun Islands and Cormorant Point, but to
pass to the eastward of Long Ledge, lying midway betwee i Slinre Hock and Cormorant
Point, the course must not be above N.N.W. ^ W., or the west end of the before-men-
tioned islet, on with the high point, which is the east end of Lake Island, lying northward
of the islet. When within 2 cables' length of the islet, the harbour will begin to open to
the eastward, when you must bear up quickly for it, leaving the islet to the northward,
keeping 200 fathoms off the west point of the outer Wapitaguns, to clear a ledg« lying off

►

. ■•

which there
;n miles of
B necessity.
e Island is
iy scattered
rhe eastern
ite, but the
edges in it,
orage on the

ling a mile,
reme of the
lary Islands,
lorthernmost
lands, which

s, and lined
sel, perfectly

s rapid, and

id sometimes
) Wapitagun,

ist \_S.W. by
lape Whittle,
the Strait of
/hich is never
130 fathoms
loundings are

ter islands of
litagun Island
the harbour

lies E. f S.

s wide, and

|ern entrance,
the entrance

|he east side,
small islets,
point, which

Lssing close to
this is the

Lwn between
[Lake Island,
Ihalf a mile.
1 whitened by
of the S.E.
westward a
loms on your
lie from that
you will see
[*oint, but to
Cormorant
before-men-
Ig northward
to open to
northward.

lg« lyin

goff

CAPE WHITTLE. 99

it, and when it bears to the west of north, proceed into the harbour and anclior where
you please.

Cape Whittle, the S.W. point of Lake Island, is in lat. 54** 10' 44' N. and long.
60° 6' 46" W., and from this point the coast of Labrador trends to the west. There is
water to be had on Lake Island, but wood is procured from the mainland.

The flood from the east and the ebb from the west usually run past here at a rate varying
between half a mile and one mile, but is much influenced by the winds.

IV.— The northern SHORE of the GULF between CAPE WHITTLE and
CAPE DE MONTS, including the MINGAN ISLANDS.

General Remarks. — From Cape Whittle to Kegashka, the coast, like that to the
eastward of it, is of granite, and the islets and rocks literally not to be counted. The islets
are bare of wood, and covered with peat, full of stagnant ponds of black water, where ducks
and other water-fowl breed, and frequented by numerous flocks of the Labrador curlew in
August and September. There are plenty of berries, but they do not always ripen.
Altogether, it is a wild, dreary, and desolate region ; and, in a gale of wind on shore, the
appearance is terriflc ; it is one line pf foaming breakers.

To the westward of Kegashka, fine sandy beaches, in front of sandy cliffs, 70 or 80 feet
high, and a country thickly wooded with spruce trees, commence and continue to Natash-
quan Point, a distance of 13^ miles.

Parallel with this coast, and at distances varying from 6 to II miles, there are banks of
sand, gravel, and broken shells, on which the depth of water is various, between 24 and 40
fathoms. There is more than 50 fathoms of water in some parts, between these banks and
the shore. Cod-fish are often caught in abundance on these banks, principally by American
schooners.

Seen from the distance of 4 or 5 leagues, the coast presents an outline so little diversified,
that it is nearly impossible to distinguish one part from another ; and it is only when a
vessel approaches within 4 or 5 miles from the outer rocks, that its broken and dangerous
nature becomes apparent ; and although there are few coasts more dangerous, either to a
vessel unacquainted with its nature, or unaware of its proximity on a dark night, or thick
fog, yet wuh the assistance of the chart, due caution, and a constant use of the deep-sea
lead, it may be approached with safety ; and a vessel may even stand close in to the outer
rocks and breakers on a clear sunny day, provided there be a trusty person aloft to look
out for shallow water, for the bottom can be seen in 4 or 6 fathoms of water.

The coast between Natashquan and the Mingan Islands is low near the sea, rising a
short distance back into mounds and ridges, but nowhere exceeding 400 feet in height. It
is composed of primary rocks, with the exception of a sandy track, 10 or 12 miles west of
Natashquan. The sandy tracks are always thickly wooded with spruce trees, and the
country generally is here less bare than it is further to the eastward.

CAPE WHITTLE. — From Cape Whittle to Natashquan Point, the bearing and distance
are N.W. by W. i W. [If. i S.] 63 miles. Off the Cape to the S, and W. are several
small rocks, above and under water, the outermost of which, the IVhittle Rocks, covered
at half-tide, are 2| miles distant from it.

JVolf Island Is larger dind higher than the outer islands usually are, and is 6 J miles
N.W. by W. of Cape Whittle, and between them is Wolf Bay, which is 6 or 7 miles deep.
Between Wolf Island and the Cape, there are numerous rocks and ledges, with intricate
and deep channels, rendering the approach to the bay very dangerous ; but there are no
dangers that do not show.

CoAcoACHO Bay, the next to the westward, is the only place affording anchorage to
large vessels upon this part of the coast. It is not at all difficult of entrance, although the
number of islets and rocks in every direction, make it appear so. There is an excellent
harbour called the Basin, in the head of the bay, and another formed by an arm running
in to th . v.. by N. named Tertiary Shell Bay, which is equally safe. Further out than
these haibours, the bay is more than half a mile wide, and quite sufficiently sheltered from
the sea, for the safety of any vessel with good anchors and cables.

The entrance to the bay is formed on the east by TFolf Island, and Outer Islet, lying one
mile S.W. of Wolf Island, and on the west by Audubon Islets.

Off the entrance, lying 2 miles W.N.W. J W. from Outer Islet, is the South Breaker,
with 13 feet water, and 2i miles N.W. by N. from this, and 2J miles west of Point

100

NORTHEUN SHORE OF THE GULF.

Audubon, is the S. tr. Breaker, with only 3 feet water ; the channel between them is clear
and deep. To enter the bay, leave Outer Islet and the rocks to the north of it, 300 fathoms
to the eastward, and when abreast of these rocks, a chain of low rocks, which project to
the S.W. of Emery Island, will be seen right a-head. Bring the point of this chain to bear
N.E. % N., when it will appear on with the extreme point of the mainland, on the N.VV.
side, near the head of the bay, and run in on this mark, leaving some rocks, which lie 600
fathoms off the east side of Audubon Islets, to the larboard, and then haul to the northward
a little, so as to leave the Emery Rocks on the starboard. Their outer point bears N.N.E.
i E. 3 miles from Outer Islet, and when up to them, the bay is open before you, and clear
of danger. The further in, the better the ground, and the less the swell with S.W. winds,
which are the only winds that send any swell into the bay. Tertiary Shell Bay is quite
clear, excepting a small rock, one-quarter of a mile within the entrance, which you must
leave on the starboard hand ; within it is perfectly land-locked, with from 5 to 1 1 fathon>8,
muddy bottom.

The Basin, lying to the north of Tertiary Shell Bay, is entered by leaving the latter
to the east, ancl continuing the course till within half a mile of the island, at the head of the
bay. Then steer over to the eastward, towards that island, to avoid a shoal of boulder
stones, extending 200 fathoms off the west side of the bay, leaving a deep channel between
it and the island, 100 fathoms wide. Leave the island 50 fathoms to the eastward, and as
you pass through, the water will deepen from 9 to 19 fathoms, as soon as you are past
the inner end of the island, when you must haul to the N.VV., into the mouth of a small
bay, anchoring in 8 fathoms, over mud, and perfectly sheltered. On the east side of the
entrance of the river, is a house occupied for fur-trading and salmon-fishing.

Olomamosheebo River, called also by the Canadians, La Romaine, is a considerable
river, but very shoal, and there is a trading-post on the east side, but which cannot be seen
from the sea. It lies 4 leagues westward of Coacoacho, and the coast between is formed
of innumerable islets and rocks.

Treble Islet and the Loon Rocks, lie to the westward, the latter always visible, and
3 miles from the main-land, and are the outermost danger on this part of the coast.

Wash-shecootni Bay is 10 miles west of Olomanosheebo ; oft' its entrance are several
small rocky ledges, that make it very difficult of entrance. Three miles from Cloudberry
Point, the western point of the bay, the bay contracts to a very narrow inlet, with several
rocks and islets in it ; 8 miles above this is a trading-post of the Hudson's Bay Company.

MusQiiARRO River, another post of the Hudson's Bay Cui

is 4i miles westward

of Cloudberry Point, is situated 3 miles within the west point of a bay full of small islets
and rocks, becoming narrow and rapid just within the entrance. It will be known by the
houses which are on the east side of the entrance, and also by a remarkable red and
precipitous ridge of granite, about 200 feet high, about 2 miles to the west of the river.

BLIiG-ASKKA BAY is a wild place, safe in fine weather only ; the bottom is
sandy, bad holding-ground. It lies 5 J miles westward of Musquarro Point, between Curlew
Feint, which must not be approached within half a mile, and Kegushka Point, on the
west, 3 miles from Curlew Point. Kegashka Point is an island nearly joined to a rocky
peninsula, which is distinguished from all other islands on this coast, by being })artly
covered with spruce trees. A chain of small islets, wide apart from each other, afford very
indifferent shelter from the prevailing southerly winds, and the heavy sea which they roll in
upon the coast. The best berth is in the S.W. corner of the bay ; the vessel must be
moored with an open hawse to the eastward, and have a third anchor on shore to the S.W.
so as to be able to haul close in under the point, in the S.W. and southerly gales ; her
bows will then be within 15 or 20 fathoms of the rocks, and the spray of the sea, breaking
on the Point, will reach her bows.

To enter the bay, the best channel is between a small and low black islet, lying between
Green Island (which is covered with grass, three-quarters of a mile eastward of Kegashka
Point,) and Kegashka Point. This channel is 170 fathoms wide, and 8 deep, and is quite
clear; the only direction necessary when coming from the westward, is to give the south
extremity of Kegashka Point, a berth of a quarter of a mile, or to go no nearer than 8
fathoms; then run along the east side of the point, which is quite bold, leaving all the
islets on the starboard hand. Three-quarters of a mile on the N.E. I N. course, will bring
you to the narrow channel before-mentioned ; haul round the Point to the north-westward",
at the distance of half a cable, and when within it, anchor as before stated. In coming
from the east, give Curlew Point a berth of half a mile, and run N.W. i N. 3| miles, till
Kegashka point bears north, and then proceed as before directed. The roar of the surf

NATASHQWAN POINT.

101

lem is clear
100 fathoms
I project to
haintobear
1 the N.VV.
bich lie 600
e northward
ears N.N.E.
)u, and clear
S.W. winds,
[Jay is quite
h you must
( 1 1 fathoms,

ng the latter
e head of the
,1 of boulder
nnel between
ward, and as
you are past
h of a small
it side of the

considerable
annot be seen
len is formed

3 visible, and
coast.

pe are several

n Cloudherrjf

with several

ay Company.

lies westward

f small islets

nown by the

able red and

the river.

Ihe bottom is
tween Curlew
*uint, on the
to a rocky
being partly
Ir, afford very
Ih they roll in
Issel must be
to the S.W.
gales ; her
sea, breaking

ying between
[of Kegashka
and is quite
ve the south
earer than 8
Jiving all the
Ise, will bring
1th- westward,

In coming
\\ miles, till

of the surf

upon the rocks and reefs in every direction, after a heavy southerly gale, and on a still
night, is deafening. The white spray, glancing in the light of the moon, or of the Aurora
Borealis, which is very brilliant upon this coast, is beautiful and grand. These sounds and
sights, together with the rolling of the vessel, from the side-swells round the point, which
take her on her beam, are quite sufficient to keep every one on the alert in such a place.
Only one vessel can be secured in this harbour as above, — there is not room for more.

Kegashka Itiver^ another fishing station of the Hudson's Bay Company, is 3 miles west
of the bay, and only affords shelter for boats.

NATASHQUAN POINT lies 16 miles westward from Kegashka River, the coast be-
tween being a line of sandy beaches in front of sandy cliffs covered with spruce trees.

Two miles east of the point is Mont Joliy* which is merely a slight elevation of the ridge,
rising to about 100 feet high.

From Natashquan Point, the east point of Anticosti bears S.S.VV. [S. J IF.] 57 miles,
and 1§ mile S.W. from Natashquan Point there is a small 4i-fathoms cod-bank, upon
which, as upon other banks to the eastward of the point, which lie from 6 to 11 miles off
shore, there are sometimes large quantities of cod taken.

Natashquan River is on the west side of the point, and enters the sea at 3 miles
north-westward from its south extremity. The mouth of the river, between low, sandy
points, is fully a mile wide, but is filled by a low, sandy island, having narrow channels
on each side ; the soulhprn of which has a depth of from 6 feet to 9 or 1 1 feet, according
to the tide, and there is the same depth within, where there is a Hudson's May Com-
pany's Post.

Little Natashguan Harhimr lies 3.^ miles N.N.E. of the river, and is only fit for small
vessels ; and from its convenience and proximity to the excellent fishing grounds, it is of
great service to the fishing vessels.

The entrance to it is between some islets on the east, which lie near the mouth of the
Little Natashquan stream, the westernmost of which is much the largest, and on the
western side is a rather high and round-backed islet of grey granite, with a wooden
cross on it. Off this islet a reef extends S.W. by S. rather more than half a mile, be-
tween the two sides of the entrance, is a central reef, part of which always shows, and
which is bold-to, on its east and south sides ; the other sides must have a berth in
passing them. To enter the harbour, having arrived in 12 fathoms at half a mile distant
from the harbour, and made out the islets at the entrance, bring the west point of the longer
island on the east side, to bear N.E. by N., and the islet with the cross on it will bear
N. by E. § E., and then steer for the latter, till abreast of the outer part of the reef to the
westward, and then bear sufficiently to the eastward to pass on either side of the central
reef, keeping clear of the shoal water on its north and north-east ends, and anchor in the
centre of the harbour in 4 fathoms, with the rock of the central reef bearing S.S.W. i W.
180 fathoms oflf, and the cross N.W. by W. J W.

Washtawooka Bay is an intricate and dangerous place, with shelter for shallops and
boats. It is 5 miles N.W. of Little Natashquan and 3^ miles eastward of Jgwanus
River, a large stream, the approach to which is very dangerous. Five miles north-
westward from this is Nabesippi River, which is much smaller, and will only admit boats
in fine weather. On the west bank, a short distance within the entrance, stands a house
and store, a trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company.

To the west of this, between it and the Mingan Islands, there are several rivers and
small bays, which are so full of rocks and small islets, that no written directions for them
would be of any avail.

Watcheeahoo Hill is of granite and 127 feet high, bare of trees, 18 miles N.W. by W.
of Nabesippi, and 14 miles E.S.E. of St. Genevieve Island; and 6 miles inland, north

• It is only remarkable as bein>; the westtira limit of the AnieiicLin fislieiy, for by convention with
the United States, of 20th Oct. 1S18, the inhabitants of the said States, renouncing previous claims,
have, for ever, in common with British subjects, the liberty of taking fish on the southern coast of
Newfoundland, between Cape Kay and the Ramea Isles, and on the western and northern coasts,
from Cape Ray to the Quirpon Isles ; also on the shores of the Magdalen Islands, and on the coasts,
bays, harbours, and creeks, of Labrador, from Mont Joli through the Strait of Belle-Isle, and
thence northward, indefinitely, along the coast, but without prejudice to the exclusive rights of the
Hudson's Bay Company: and, the fishermen of the United States have Uberty, for ever, to dry and
cure fish in any of the unsettled bays, harbours, and creeks, of the southern parts of Newfoundland,
above described, and of the Coast of Labrador, but so long as uni:ettled only, without previous agree-
ment with the inhabitants, &c.

103

NORTHERN SHORE OF THE GULP.

;'?!

from it, is Saddle Hilt, S74 feet high ; these are remarkable, and serve to point out the
situation of a vessel at sea. There is a Hshing post of the Hudson's Bay Company here
iu a cove to the westward of the rocks.

Appeektat Bay is 3 miles from the S.K. point of St. Genevieve Island, the easternmost
of the Mingans. It is of no use to vessels, as it is crowded with ledges and shoals.

Bf XZfG-ilN ZSXiiiNDS. — These arc a chain of limestone islands, of moderate
height, perhaps nowhere exceeding 300 feet above the sea. They are separated into two
divisions by Clearwater Point, the easternmost of which has been called the Esquimaux
Islands; but besides that the island, properly so called, belongs to the other or western
division, there is another group hearing the same name on the coast to the eastward. They
will therefore be considered as all comprised within the title of the Mingan Islands.

Their general character, in nautical language, is low. They are bold and frequently
cliffy on their north, east, and west sides, low and shelving toward the south, in which
direction the reefs and dangers exist. Tiiey possess very little soil, but nevertheless are
thickly wooded with spruce, birch, and poplar, on the side toward the main-land ; though
towards the sea barren tracts often occur.

Supplies of wood and water can readily be obtained from the principal islands ; wild
berries are abundant in their season, and so are different kinds of wild fowl. Quadrupeds
are scarce, but there are plenty of seals on the limestone reefs, and a few cod-fish off
the coast.

There are 29 islands in all, extending about 43 miles from St. Genevieve on the east,
to the Perroquets on the west end of the chain. Of these, Large Island is the largest, as
its name implies. It is about 10 miles in circumference; Hunting Island is nearly as large,
and Esquimaux Island not much smaller. The northern points of these islands are nowhere
more than 3^ miles from the main-land; the southern points never more than 6} miles.

The main land is of low granite hills ; St. John's Mountain is the highest part of the
chain in the neighbourhood, 1416 feet above the sea. Toward the eastern end of the
islands, the main becomes very low, the coast of sand and clay, and thickly wooded, the
hills being very far back in the country.

The tides are not strong among the islands, perhaps never exceeding a knot, excepting
in the very narrow channels ; it rises about 6 feet in spring tides.

St. Genevieve Island is the easternmost of the group, and is about 5 miles in circum-
ference. On the main-land, 2 miles N. \ E. from the bluff N.E. point of the island, is
Mount St. Genevieve, an isolated table hill, 332 feet high, marking, with the N.E. point of
the island, the position of the East Channel, between the island and the main.

In approaching this island, there are two dangers to be avoided, the Saints, two low
bare rocks, half a mile to the south of the island, leaving a foul channel of 5 fathoms
between them and the island, and the Bowen Rocks, which lie two-thirds of a mile asunder ;
the North-western Rock of 3 feet, Ij mile E.S.E. ^ E. from the Eastern Saint; the South-
east Bowen Jlocft, with 6 feet least water, two-thirds of a mile S.E. J S. from the N.W.
rock, and S.E. by E. ^ E. 1| mile from the East Saint, which will be just open to the north-
ward of the Western Saint ; the whole of this dangerous part should be avoided by vessels.

ST. GZiMSVXEVXS BARBOUZl is on the N.W. side of the island, between
it and the main, and it may be entered either by the East Channel or by the Saints
Channel, between St. Genevieve Island and Hunting Island, to the west.

To enter by the East Channel, when at least 3 miles off the island, in order to clear the
Bowen Rocks, bring the N.E. point of St. Genevieve in one with Indian Point, which is
a low wooded point of the main, forming the east point of Pillage Bay, bearing N.W.
by N., and standing in on this course will leave the Bowen Rocks half a mile to westward,
and when the S.E. point of St. Genevieve and the fFest Saint come in one, change your
course a little to the northward, to clear a flat shoal extending SOO fathoms from the east
side of the island. Give the N.E. Point a berth of a cable's length, and passing close to
the shingly north point of the island, bring up in 10 fathoms, halfway between that point
and Anchor Island, on the N.W. side of St. Genevieve.

To enter by the Saints Channel, being at least 5 miles off the coast of St. Genevieve, so
as to be outside of the Collins Shoal of 15 feet; it is a small patch of rocks, lying 8|
miles south from the S.E. point of Hunting Island. The marks on this dangerous shoal
are the east point of St. Genevieve, just open to the eastward of the Western Saint, bearing
N.W. f N., and the north point of Wood Island on with the south side of the Garde Eock.

int out the
mpany here

easternmost
oals.

jf moderate
;d into two
Esquimaux
r or western
vard. They
ands.

1 frequently
ih, in which
ertheless are
md; though

slands; wild
Quadrupeds
cod-fish off

on the east,
he largest, as
arly as large,
, are nowhere
6i miles.

i part of the

1 end of the

wooded, the

iOt, excepting

|es in circum-

he island, is

.E. point of

lints, two low
I of 5 fathoms

lile asunder ;

; the South-
m the N.W.

to the north-
id by vessels.

ind, between
(y the Saints

to clear the
fnt, which is

earing N.W.
Jlo westward,
(change your
lorn the east
|ing close to

m that point

tenevieve, so

|ks, lying Sf

;erous shoal

lint, bearing

iarde Eock.

BETCHEWU^f AND ESQUIMAUX HARnOUllS.

lo:^

Being outside this shoal, bring the west points of St. Genevieve Island and Anokoi
Island in one, bearing north, and run in on this leading mark, until the north sides ut the
two Saints come in one, bearing R.S.E. J E.; then sleer upon this leading mark, to clear
the reef extending 2H0 fathonis ofl" the S.W. point of St. Genevieve, until the east side of
Mount Genevieve, seen over the sandy S.E. point of Anchor Island, conies in one with
tlie N.W. point of St. Genevieve Island, hearing N.N.E. i E. Then bear to the north,
which will take through the centre of the channel between St. Genevieve Island and
Hunting Island, and then proceed to the harbour round Anchor Island.

Wood and water may be obtained, and tlie whole space between the islands and the
main is well sheltered, and will accommodate a great number of vessels of the largest class.

BSTCKfiWUN HARBOUR lies to the west of that of St. Genevieve, and
between Hunting Island and Partridge Point, the western point of Pillage Ray. The
entrance to this harbour is either through the East Channel, before described ; but if,
instead of proceeding to St. Genevieve, this is made for, you must pass to the northward
of Anchor Island, which is quite bold on that side, when the entrance will bear W. by N.,
between the north point of Hunting Island a cliffy mound, and Partriilffe Point, on the
N.E. side of which is Mount Partridge, a wooded, steep-sided hill, which is easily recog-
nised. You must pass close to the north point of Hunting Island, to avoid a shoal,
extending one-fourth of a mile off Partridge Point, and when within the entrance, steer
for a low islet in the centre of the harbour, bearing W. by N., and anchor one-third of a
mile from it.

The Saints Channel, before described, is another entrance; and when at its northern
part, bear along the N.E. side of Hunting Island, which is quite bold, instead of pro-
ceeding east to St. Genevieve.

On the west of Hunting Island is Puffin Bay; and Charles Island, forming its western
side, is 3i miles from Hunting Island. It is 3 miles long and IJ wide, and about 200
feet high. On its north side is Charles Harbour, which is narrow, but perfectly secure,
with a dtpth of from 4 to 6| fathoms, with mud bottom.

To enter Charles Harbour from Puffin Bay, bring the N.E. point of Charles Island,
which is high and cliffy, to bear N.W., then steer for it, rounding it at a distance of 100
or 180 fathoms, bearing to westward into the harbour. To enter from Trilobite Bay, to
the N.W. of the island, and which affords excellent anchorage, sheltered from all but the
south, give the N.W. point of the island a berth of from 60 to 140 fathoms, and bear
round S.E. by E. into the harbour.

CLEARWATER POINT is low, but the shoal water does not extend above one-
quarter of a mile south of it. Its S.W. extreme is in lat. 50" 12' 35", and Ion. 63" 27' 4",
and with Ammonite Point, 2 miles to the east, it forms a promontory, dividing the
Mingan range.

One mile and a half due west from Clearwater Point is a rocky 3-fathom shoal ; and
there are three others with 2 fathoms, lying to the northward of the first, and in a line from
the point towards Walrus Island : the outer and westernmost being rather more than 2
miles from the point. The leading mark for passing outside these shoals is, the south
points of Gull and Fright Islands in one, bearing N.W. by W.

Westward of this point are Walrus Island and Sea Cow Island, lying close together in
a N.E. direction; off the S.E. point of Sea Cow Island the reef extends three-quarters of a
mile to the southward, and off Walrus Island for 200 fathoms.

ESQUIMAUX ISLAND lies to the west of these, and is about 2} miles long, and
1| wide: off its S.E. point is Gull Island, half a mile distant, but no passage between;
it is bold-to. On the S.W. side of Esquimaux Island there is a shoal extending towards
Fright Island.

ESQUIMAUX RABBOUB is on the north side of the island, between it and
the main ; the depth is from 5 to 15 fathoms, sandy bottom, and it is nearly 1 J mile long,
in a N.W. ^ W. direction, between the N.E, and N.W. points of the island, which shelter
it well, if vessels anchor well over toward the island. The best channels to it are between
Walrus Island and Green Island, which lies one-third of a mile E.S.E. from Esquimaux
Island, on the east, and between Fright and Quin Islands and Niapisca Island, on the west.

The east passage, the best with easterly winds, is three-quarters of a mile wide, and is
clear and deep, and it is only necessary to keep the middle of it, bearing north towards
the N.E. point of Esquimaux Island, which will bear in the centre of the channel, and
haul round it, at a cable's length off, to the N.W., into the harbour.

104

NORTIiEriN SHORE OK TIIK GULF.

The west channel, liolvecn Niapisca Inland and Fri(j;ht Island, is preferable lo iliat
between the latter and Kyriuimaux Ixhind, leading nortli-oastwanl ; linvini; no leading
inark<!, and leefs extending oii either side, it is extremely dangerous, and should therefore
not be attempted.

In coming here with n westerly wind, the reefs off the south and cast of Niapisca Island
must 1)0 avoided ; to do this, do not open the N.NV. point of Fright Island, clear of the
south end of Quin Island, until Moiiinc hlatid, which is '2\ miles N. \ K. of Niapisca
Island, is in sight to the east of Niapisca, when you may hear muiid into the channel ;
bearing N.N.K. i E. until Moiitangc Island, lyin;^ next west of Mniiiac Island, is open
of the north point of Ni;ipisca, when you will be clear of ilin reef on the east of that island ;
then haul up, to cUar the reef which projects half a mile VV.N.VV. from the north point of
Quin Island, until you open the N.E. point of lilsquimaux, or the north point of Sea C!ow
Island, to the northward of Quin Island ; and then run in between (Juin Island and Point
mix Moris, towards the north point of Esquimaux Island, and haul round it south-
eastward into the harbour. Between Point aux Moris and Es([uimaux Point there is
shoal water, and to the west of the former there are some small islets, which will be cleared
by keeping the N. and N.E. points of Esquimaux Island in one, bearing S. E. J !•'. ; if
these are opened, before passing as far eastwarcl as Q\i'u\ Island, the vessel will be ashore.

(iuAHRV Island is the next westward from Niapisca, and is about the same height; it
is divided from the latter by a channel with a small islet in it, but no safe passage for
shipping. Off its south side there are some reefs extending one-third of a mile.

On its north side is Quarry Cove, which is a small land-locked harbour, and easy of
entrance ; the west side may be kept close in entering, and anchor in the centre in 9 or
10 fathoms.

Large Island is divided from Quarry Island by a clear channel 400 fathoms wide,
the water being shoal towards Large Island, and therefore in passing through it, (Quarry
Island, which is bold-to in its northern part, must be kept on board. The island is 4
miles long, and its highest part 200 feet above the sea: it is thickly wooded.

The Brncii Islands lie 2 miles to the west of Large Island. In a line with these two
islands, and Harbour Island to the northward, is the Middle Reef, about a mde south of
the Outer Birch Island, and within a line joining the south points of Large and Mingan
Islands. A part of it always shows. To clear the eastern side of the shoal water
around it, bring the eastern sides of the two Birch Islands in one.

Between this reef and Large Island is Large Channel, which is the best channel lo
Mingan Harbour with an easterly wind; and in passing through it, the only thing to be
observed is, that the reefs extend to the westward, off the shore of Large Island, from 2
to 3 cables' length, as far in as the Flou-er Pot Columns, a mile to the northward of its
S.W. point, after which the island becomes bold. Further in, the Birch Islands form the
western side of the channel, at the distance of nearly 2 miles from Large Island. The
eastern side of the Outer Birch Island is quite bold, and the shoal water extends only
150 fathoms off the east end of the Inner Birch Island.

MINGAN ISLAND is .3J miles westward of the Inner Birch Island, the channel
between, called Birch Channel, is all deep water, and is the best by which to proceed to
Mingan Harbour with westerly winds.

The island is nearly 2 miles long, and nearly 1 mile broad. It is about 100 feet high,
and bare of trees. The shoal water does not extend above 300 fathoms off its south
point, but to the S.W. and West, the reefs, including the islets, run out nearly 600 fathoms.
The island is bold on its north and east sides.

Mingan Patch lies S.W. i S., 3J miles, from the south point of Mingan Island, and
with the south point of the Outer Birch Island on with the north point of Large Island ;
it is a patch of rocky ground, with 9 fathoms least water, yet there is a very heavy swell
on it at times.

Feuugquet Islands are four small islets, and are the westernmost of the Mingans.
The easternmost of them are 2 miles distant N. by W. from the centre of Mingan Island,
and have a reef of flat limestone extending off them three-quarters of a mile to the S.S.W.
The North-western islet has shoal water off it one-quarter of a mile, both to the east
and west, but is clear at the distance of 200 fathoms to the northward.

These islets are low and bare of trees, and are frequented by great numbers of puffins.

lie to tliat
u) leading
i therefore

isca Island
Iciir of the
if Niapisca
e channel ;
1(1, is open
.hat island ;
rlh point of
)f Sea C!ow
I and Point
d it south-
int there is
I be cleared
E. i K. ; if
be ashore.

e height ; it
passage for

and easy of
entre in 9 or

thoms wide,
[i it, (iviatry
c island is 4

ith these two

)ile south of

and Mingan

shoal water

It channel to
thing to be
land, from 2
Ihward of ils
ids form the
Island. The
ixlends only

Jthe channel
lo proceed to

)0 feet high,
)ft' its south
500 fathoms.

I Island, and
uge Island ;
[heavy swell

le Mingans.
bgan Island,

the S.S.W.

to the east

[)f puffins.

MTXfJAN HAunoun.

105

MtNOAK XASBOUK is between llarbm" Island, to the north of tlio Rlrch
Islands, and ihe main, which is low, and has a fine sandy beach. The harbour is about a
mile long and 270 fathoms wide, with plenty of water for the largest ships.

IIarhour Island is two miles long, and its greatest breadth is not half a mile ; ils shore
is precipitous toward the harbour, about 100 feet high, and thickly wooded. OH" the east
and west ends of the island there arc reefs extending 2 10 fathoms from high-water mark.

Nordiward of the east end of the island is the mouth of the Miupan River, oil' which
there is a shoal, dry at low water, extending 700 fathoms from the entrance of the river,
which protects the harbour from the effects of ea>terly winds. The river, turning towards
the west, forms a peninsula, on the isthmus of which stand the houses of the Hudson's Hay
('on)pany's post, which is in charge of a *• graiul bourgfon," or chief factor, who preserves
a strict mononoly of tiade with the Indians. At the salmon fisheries here the fish are very
tine, and in anundance.

To enter this harbour from the eastward, bii ig the N. or inner side of Harbour Island to
bear N.W., and the houses ought then to appear fully open their own breadth to the north-
ward of the island. Steer for the houses, thus open, leaving the east end of the island 150
fathoms on your left, and taking care to keep the south side of the sandy point of the main,
which forms the western entrance of the harbour, shut in behind the north side of the island ;
ft)r when they are in one, you will be on shore on the sandy shoal of Mingan Kiver. Pro-
ceed till you have arrived at the centre of the harbour, keeping a cable's length off the
north side of the island, and anchor any where in from 9 to 13 fathoms.

In coming from the westward, run in towards the sandy beach of the main land, at the
distance of three-quarters of a mile to the W. of the island, until the sandy point, which
forms the west end of the harbour, comes in one with the face of the clay cliffs to the V,. of
the Company's houses, bearing E. by S., or in 11 fathoms water. Run in upon this bear-
ino: alone; the beach, and give the above sandy point a berth of half a cable, and anchor as
before directed.

The northern side of all the islands westward from Niapisca Island are bold-to, so that
the Mingan Channel, between them and the main, is clear and safe throughout ; on its
north side is Moutange Island, to the north of Quarry Island ; the shoals which extend
between it and Moniac Island to the E., and which are nearly dry at low water, form the
northern side of the channel, which it would be better not to approach nearer than at a
distance of 1 J mile from the opposite shore, or within 10 fathoms water.

Mingan, as well as Esquimaux Harbour, has this great advantage, that vessels can enter
or leave them with easterly or westerly winds.

The following observations on this harbour are by Mr. Jeffery, M.R.N. : —

" The coast of Labrador, about Mingan, and eastward to the point called Mount Joli,
is low, and nothing remarkable appears to point out, to anyone unacquainted, the position
of a ship. The small harbour of Mingan is well sheltered, with sufficient water for any
vessel. Harbour Island, which forins the anchorage, is rather difficult to make out, being
low, covered with trees, and very much resembling the coast of the main.

" To a vessel bound for Mingan and coming round the west end of Anticosti, I should
recommend steering for Mount St. John, which is the highest land on that part, and makes
like a saddle. This will lead you about 12 miles to the westward of the harbour, and well
clear of the Perroquets, or westernmost of the Mingan Islands. When within a mile and
a half of the coast, run along shore, by the lead, until you make out the harbour.

" On coming from the eastward, it may be advisable to run inside the islands, into the
Mingan Channel, as soon as possible after making the land ; any of the channels may be
taken, with a little caution, and the lead kept going. When you are through, you will see
the houses of the Hudson's Bay settlement : by keeping them their own length open, you
you will go in clear of the reef off the east end of Harbour Island. It is necessary to be
very cautious in approaching the banks on the north side. The island is bold, and may be
approached within 40 or 50 fathoms ; but you must open the west point on the north shore
with the north point of the island, until you are well into the harbour. The anchorage is
any where off the houses. No supplies of any kind can be obtained, except wood and
bad water.

" The flood tide sets strongly through, between the islands and along the coast to the

106

NORTHERN SHORE OF THE GULF.

n
I ,

westward ; the ebb in the contrary direction. Lat. of Harbour Island 50° 17' 30", long.
64^ 2'."

From Long Point, north of Mingan Island, a broad beach of fine sand reaches to the
Ilivra St. John, the entrance to which lies nearly 6J miles N.N.W. i W. from the Per-
roquet Islands; and Mount St. John, an isolat<-}d saddle-backed hill, 1416 feet high, is 11
miles N.E. J N. from the entrance. It is frequented occasionally by fishing schooners,
early in the season. At the entrance, between the clay cliffs on the west and a sandy point
on the east side, the river is 130 fathoms wide ; it increases in breadth to nearly half a mile
immediately within the entrance, and then gradually contracts. The tide ascends it about
six miles, and the rivsr then becomcj loo rapid to be navigated.

There is good anchorage outside the bar, there being three fathoms at three-quarters of a
mile from the mouth.

It divides the governments of Labrador and Canada. The E. point of the entrance is in
lat. 50« 17' 11", and long. 64° 23' 13''.»

From the River St. John to Magpie Point is W.N.W. 8 miles, and between them is
Magpie Bai/, in which there is good anchorage, in winds off the land. Three-quarters of
a mile west of the Magpie River, which is large and rapid, but of no use to boats, is a
rocky shoal, a quarter of a mile off" shore.

Ridge Point is 3^ miles W.N.W. ^ W. from Magpie Point, and from it there extends a
long narrow ridge of rocky ground, with from 4 to 6 fathoms water, for 4^ miles to the
westward, across a bay, and at times there is a very heavy sea upon it.

Sawhill River is 23 miles westward of the River St. John ; it may be distinguished by
the clay cliffs immediately within the entrance, and by the peculiar hills on either side of
it. It will afford shelter to boats and very small craft, but it can only be entered in very
fine weather.

Shallop River is 7 J miles N.W. by W. from Sawbill River, and affords shelter only to
boats. Off" this and Sandy River, 2 J miles to the westward of it, there are some rocks,
the outermost of which are half a mile off" shore.

The coast of this part is impregnated with iron, the black oxide of which is here found
abundantly. It has a strong magnetic action on the compass on shore, causing it to vary
from 14 to 29 degrees west ; hut at the distance of two or three miles, this error does not
exceed half a point, and at the distance of five or six miles it is insensible.

Manitou River is the next to the westward, 4^ miles N.W. by W. from Shallop River.
It is the largest on the coast, excepting the rivers St. John and Moisic. It may be readily
distinguished from a vessel several leagues off" the coast, by two remarkable patches of
clay cliff", one of which is close to the eastward, the other about one mile to the north-
westward from it. The falls on this river, half a mile from the entrance, are of the most
raagriificent description. An immense sheet of water rushes over a precipice of pouphyry,
the height of which is 1 13 feet.

There is good anchorage off" this river, the entrance bearing N.E. ^ E. 1 J miles distant,
in 15 fathoms, over mud, and one mile from Manitou Point, the nearest point of the shore.
Smaller vessels may anchor further in-shore, to the westward of the bar. The only danger
is a small rocky shoal, bearing W. by N. 2^ miles from the entrance of the river, about
three-quarters of a mile off" shore.

Bason River is 10| miles W.N.W. J W. from Manitou River, but is only fit for boats
or very small craft. Cape Cormorant lies IJ mile west of it, and Blaskowitz Point is b%
miles W.N.W. \ W. from the latter, and between them are the Cormorant Islets, off which
is Cormorant Reef, small and dangerous, lying Q^ miles W. ^ N. from the Cormorant
Cape. To avoid this, vessels should keep Points Blaskowitz and St. Charles open of each
other, as when in one, bearing W.N.W., the mark is on the reef.

Point St. Charles is in lat. 30° 13' 25", and long. 65° 48' 50". It is the eastern
point of Moisic Bay, Point Moisic at the entrance of the Moisic River being the western,
and 11 miles apart.

• The coasts and islands of Labrador, from St. John's River to Hudson's Strait, with the island
of Anticosti, were re-annexcdto the government of Newfoundland, in 1809, by Act of Parliament,
49 Geo. III. c. 27.

/ %

' 30", long.

dies to the
:)m the Per-

high, is 11
; schooners,
sanely point

half a mile
nds it about

luarters of a

ntrance is ia

veen thera is

;.quarters of

boats, is a

re extends a
miles to the

nguished by
;ither side of
Lered in very

elter only to
some rocks,

[s here found
g it to vary
ror does not

lop River.

be readily

patches of

the north-

of the most

ponphyry,

iles distant,

■ the shore.

)nly danger

river, about

fit for boats

Point is 6 J

off which

Cormorant

pen of each

the eastern
he western,

:h the island
Parliament,

SEVEN ISLANDS BAY. 107

Off the point is a dangerous reef, being so bold that there is no warning by the lead :
some of the rocks always show, but the outermost patches are always covered ; these last
lie three-quarters of a mile off, to the S.S.VV. from the south extreme of the point, and
vessels should take care not to be becalmed to the westward of this reef, lest the heavy
swell from the S.W., so frequent on this coast, should heave them toward the reef.

Trout River is on the head of the bay, and is the termination of the rocky shores from
the E. and the commencement of the bold sandy beach, which extends 6i miles S.W. by
W. to the River Moisic.

The RIVER MOISIC is a larger river than the St. John, but is much obstructed by
the sand-bars, which are formed by the great force with which the river descends ; there is
usually not less than 9 feet least water on the bar. It is very bold-to off its mouth ; but
from Point Moisic, the south point of the river, there is a shoal extends 2| miles W. S.W. J W.
from the Point, to the Moisic Rock, which is exceedingly dangerous. It is as bold as a
wall to the S. and S.W., and can generally be seen in fine weather, from the change in the
colour of the water, and from heavy breakers, when there is much sea running.

There is no close leading mark for clearing this rock, but a vessel will be If mile from
the edge of the shoal, when the N. side of the Manowin Island is on with the S. point of
Great Boule Island.

SSVIiN ZSIiANDS 8AT«— The sandy point, which is the eastern point of
the entrance of this magnificent bay, is 11 miles westward of Point Moisic. The Bay is
completely sheltered by the Sevem Islands lying off its entrance, which is 2| miles wide.
A fine broad, bold, sandy beach, extends for* three miles northward from the east point of
the Bay, to the entrance of the principal river, near which stands the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany's trading post. The houses at this post cannot be seen from the outer parts of the
Bay, but there is a wooden store on the beach, off which vessels usually anchor. Water
can be obtained from this river at high tide.

The SEVEN ISLANDS are high and steep, of primary rocks, very thinly wooded, and
can be made out from a distance of 7 or 8 leagues, being unlike any thing else in the Gulf.
The easternmost of these islands are the Great and Little Boule, the former of which is the
highest of them all, its summit being 695 feet above the sea at high water ; its south point
bears west 9^ miles from Point Moisic. The channel between these two islands is subject
to baffling winds, and the flood tide sets strongly to the west, and the ebb to the east,
through it, a circumstance that must be attended to in all the channels between the islands.

The East Rocks, which are low and bare of trees, lie between Little Boule and the shoal
to the N.E. ; they are out of the way of vessels, which ought not to go into this embayed
place.

The Little and Great Basque Islands lie next to the Boules ; Great Basque, the inner
island, is 500 feet high.

Manowin and Carousel lie to the S.W. of the Basques; the former is 457 feet high,
the latter much lower, and the southernmost of the islands ; its south extreme is in iat.
50'' 5' 29', long. 66° 23' 35".

The fVest Rocks lie between Manowin and the peninsula, which forms the west point of
the Bay of the Seven Islands. They are too small and low to appear as the seventh island,
but the peninsula has that appearance when seen at a distance from sea, being higher than
any of the islands, and 737 feet above the sea at high water.

There are three obvious channels into the bay, viz. the eastern, middle, and western
channels: the eastern, between Great Basque and Sandy Point, is seldom used, having a
rock in its centre, which is covered only in high tides. The principal and best is the
middle channel, between the Basque Islands on the E. and Carousel, Manowin, and Point
Chasse, the eastern point of the peninsula, and off which a reef runs out 120 fathoms from
the shore. The course through it is due north, its breadth is 1| mile, and it is quite free
from danger.

The west channel is also quite free from danger, and perhaps, in N. or N.W. winds, is
preferable, to save beating ; it is between the West Rocks and Point Croix, the south point
of the peninsula. This p^^'nt deflects the ebb tide towards the West Rocks, and this ought
to be attended to. The peninsula is quite bold-lo, and the mid-channel is nearer to it than
the West Rocks: it is quite clear, and there are no leading marks, nor are there any

'"1

m .^

108

NORTHERN SHORE OF THE GULF.

^ >

required for any of the channels. The ground is not fit for anchoring until well within the
bay. Outside the islands the water is extremely deep, and their shores are quite bold-to.

The stream of tides in the bay and in the principal channels seldom amounts to a knot ;
but in the narrow channels it may amount to two knots in spring tides, when accelerated
by strong winds.

It is high water on the full and change days at 40 minutes past one ; spring tides rise
9 feet, neaps 8 feet.

From tlie S.E. point of Carousel to Cape de Monts the bearing and distance are
S.VV. by W.i W. [S. AF. f S.] 60 miles. The coast between is less bold in appearance
than that to the eastward, and there are no detached rivers off it.

St. Margaret River is 6 miles N.W. by W. from Point Croix, nearly at the head of
St. Margaret Bay ; it affords shelter to boats only.

The Cuwee Islands lie S.W. by W. J W. 16 miles from St. Margaret Point; they are
two small hilly islands, nearly bare of trees. Great Cawee Island is tl>e largest and eastern-
most, and about 250 feet high. Little Cawee Island is a mile to the S.W. of it, and is
composed of two islets.

There is a bay on the inner or N.W. side of Great Cawee, in the mouth of which there
is anchornge at a cable's length from the island. It is an intricate and dangerous place,
but may be of great use as a place of refuge in case of distress. In making for it from the
eastward, steer N.W. past the N.E. side of Great Cawee Island, keeping half a mile off, to
avoid the shoal off the mouth of the cove, until the point of the main land to the westward
opens clear of the north side of the island. When you arrive between the rocks and the
island, which you will come to by steering for the point of the main land, keeping it mid-
way between the north side of the island and these rocks, which lie to the northward of it,
haul into the mouth of the small bay, which is on the N.W. side of the latter, and anchor
in 7 fathoms at low water. This anchorage may be come at from the westward, by keeping
in mid-channel between Little Cawee and the main ; but it would be better to pass between
Great and Little Cawee Islands, huuling close round the west point of the latter into the
anchorage.

The tides run through between the island and the main at a rate seldom exceeding
1 \ knots, and generally much less.

Lobster Bay is an excellent open roadstead, between Point Sproule, three-quarters of a
mile north-westward of Little Cawee Island and the Crooked Islands, three miles to the
westward of the point ; the head of the bay is occupied by an extensive flat, but there is
plenty of room for the largest ships.

Pentecost River is IJ mile to the westward of Crooked Island; it would afford shelter
to small vessels, but is difficult of entrance.

English Point is 7 miles S.W. of Pentecost River, and has a shoal extending off it to
the distance of one-third of a mile. It is bold-to on the S.E. and east.

Egg Island is 14 miles S.W. J W. from Great Cawee Island. It is low and narrow,
without trees, and three-quarters of a mile long in a N.N.E. ^ E. direction ; off each end of
the island a reef of rocks extend, forming a natural breakwater, I3 mile long, the northern
end of which is three-quarters of a mile off shore, and the southern end nearly a mile.
Opposite the N. end of the island, the breadth of the channel is contracted by a shoal
extending from the main ; on the S.W. part of this narrow part is the best anchorage.

The passage to this from the S. and W. is quite bold, and no directions are necessary;
but if it be intended to run through between the island and the main, stand in to the north-
ward, to 8 or 9 fathoms, or until English Point is open half a point to the northward of the
North Rocks; then steer for English Point, giving the inner side of the North Rocks a berth
of a cable's length, until you have passed them a full quarter of a mile ; you may then haul
out to sea, going nothing to the southward of S.E. by E. to avoid the N.E. reef.

The tides running between the island and the main are generally from half to one knot,
and part of both the stream of ebb and flood passes through the narrow and dangerous
three-fathom channel between the island and the North Rocks.

Calumet River is 2 J miles W. by S. from the S.W. end of Egg Island, There are reefs
to the S.W. of the entrance for a mile, and extending GOO fathoms from the shore. Caribou

TRINITY DAY.

109

thin the
old-to.

a knot ;
lelerated

;ides rise

ance are
pearance

head of

they are
1 eastern-
it, and is

hich there
ous place,
t from the
nile off, to
westward
is and the
ng it mid-
vard of it,
ind anchor
by keeping
lss between
er into the

exceeding

larters of a
es to the
)ut there is

brd shelter

ig off it to

d narrow,
ach end of
northern
rly a mile,
by a shoal
rage.

necessary ;
1 the north-
lirard of the
pks a berth
' then haul

one knot,
Idangerous

\e are reefs
Caribou

Point is 8i miles S.W. by S. from Egg Island, and affords shelter for the pilot-boats, which
often look out for vessels here.

TRINITY BAY is five miles further south-westward, and affords excellent anchorage:
it is a very valuable stopping-place, in westerly winds, for vessels bound up the St. Ltiw-
rence, and at these times pilots are generally found waiting to ta 2 vessels upward ; but in
easterly winds they take shelter in St. Augustin Cove, 1 J mile westward of the Cape.

On the N.E. point of the bay are two large rocks; there is no passage between them,
and the northern one dries to the main in spring ebbs. The southern rock lies nearly a
quarter of a mile to the southward of the point. The bay is 3i miles round, from point
to point. A river, which falls into it, will supply fresh water; and there is another stream
at half a mile to the westward of the western point. Wood is abundant.

To anchor, come-to at half a mile to the eastward of the west point, on which stands a
cross, in from 9 to 5 fathoms, and with the point bearing VV.S.W. or S.W. by W. Small
vessels may anchor in 3 fathoms, at low water, just within the reef, the western point of
the bay bearing S.W. At three-quarters of a mile S.W. from the point on which the cross
is placed, is a ledge of rocks, dry at low water, and which should not be approached
nearer than to the depth of 4 fathoms.

The coast between Cape de Monts and this bay is indented with small sandy coves, and
in the interval are three large rocks, always above water, which will be avoided by not
approaching nearer than in 8 fathoms.

The light-house on Potnt de Monts is 5 miles to the south-westward of Trinity'Bay.
It is a mile and a quarter N.E. by E. ^ E. from the extremity of the cape, and bears
S. 52* W. from the outer part of Caribou Point, over which, and eastward of it, the light
may be seen.

The light tower is of the usual form, nearly white, and the lantern is elevated^at about
100 feet above the level of the sea, and exhibits a bright fixed light.

Ships from the eastward, approaching the light-house, on drawing towards Caribou Point,
may bring it to bear W. by S., when they will be in a good fair-way, and may, if requisite,
advance toward the land, by the lead. But after passing Caribou Point, on drawing toward
the light-house, they should come no nearer than in 12 fathoms; for thus they will avoid
two ledges of rocks, one of which lies E.S.E. from the light-house, with only 12 feet over
it ; the other lies S.W. from the light-house, and E.S.E. from the extremity of Cape de
Monts, whh 16 feet over it. These rocks are not more than half a mile from shore at
low water.

When a ship is to the westward of the Cape de Monts, the light-house will appear
in one with tl.e outermost rocks of the same, and the cape will be in one, bearing
N.E. by E. J E., and from this line of bearing vessels are in the best fair-way for proceeding
up or down the river. You may, if it be required, safely approach the north shore, until
the light-house bears E. by N. ; but when it bears E. ^ N. it will be time to tack. When
bearing east, it will be shut in with the high land, and cannot be seen to the southward of
east, at only a mile from the land.

v.— The south SHORE of the ENTRANCE to the RIVER, from CAPE

ROSIER to CAPE CHATTE.

This coast is bold and high, quite clear from dangers, and affords no harbour, or scarcely
any shelter for vessels. The water is deep all along, and will not give any warning in
approaching the coast, by the lead ; it must therefore be guarded against during fogs, or
in the night, more especially as the downward current of the river sets over to the south
side from Cape de Monts.

The land generally rises from the water's edge into round high hills at the back, and the
whole is covered with trees.

Cape Rosier is about two leagues to the northward of Cape Gaspe. It is a rugged,
rocky point, and the shore to Cape Gaspe is very steep, with high perpendicular cliffs.
To the S.W. of Cape Rosier, about a quarter of a mile, is a fine sandy bay, with good
anchoring ground, decreasing in depth from 14 to 7 fathoms toward the beach, and
sheltered from S.W. to N.W. winds. There are several fishing establishments on it, and
in the vicinity.

1 10 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

till

Griffin's Cove is 6J miles W.N.W. from Cape Rosier. The north point of its entrance
is bluff, and it has several houses within it. It will afford shelter to small vessels with a
west wind, but it is open to the north. Five miles further is Great Fox River, off which
a vessel might anchor in fine weather : it may be known by the extent of the settlement
on its banks, particularly on the southern side.

Great Pond River, ot Anse de I'Etang, 16 miles N.W. i N. from Great Fox River,
will afford shelter to shallops ; it may be known by a remarkable high, wooded, conical
hill on the east side, and by a beach with a few huts and stages on the west. Some of
the people of the parish of St. Thomas, on the Rivifere du Sud, 33 miles below Quebec,
frequent this place during the cod-fishing season. The river issues from several lakes, one
of which is only half a mile through the woods from the fish stages. Fishermen also
frequent the Grande Vallie, or Great Valley River, the Magdalen River, Mont Louis
River, St. Anne's and Cape Chatte, during summer ; but there appears to be no permanent
settlers, those of St. Anne excepted, until we reach Matane.

Magdalen River is a considerable stream, and in the bay, at the mouth of it, a vessel
can anchor in fine weather, and- sometimes schooners warp into the river itself. It is 24
miles from Great Pond and 16 miles from Mont Louis River, which is a much smaller
stream ; the small bay, into which it falls, affords anchorage to vessels nearer the east than
the west side.

Cape St, Anne is 26 miles further westward, in the rear of which are the 5^ Anne
Mountains, the highest of which is 14 miles behind Cape Chatte, and is 3970 feet above
the sea ; it is the highest land in British North America.

Sti Anne River is 6 miles west of the cape, and can be entered by small schooners at
high water. A few families are settled here, and also at Cape Chatte River, who willingly
render assistance to such as require it.

Cape Chatte is a remarkable hummock, like a short sugar loaf, on a point which is
lower than the land about it. Its extremity is in lat. 49° 6' and Ion. 6G«> 45' 19". At
about three miles to the S.E. of it is a small river of the same name.

The land over Cape Chatte is very mountainous, and is much broken at the top ; hence
it may be readily known, as there is no land presenting similar features in any other part
of the river.

VI.— GENERAL DESCRIPTION of the RIVER.

" The River of St. Lawrence, and the whole country from the lowest parishes to
Quebec, unfold scenery, the magnificence of which is considered to be unequalled in
America, and probably in the world.

*' It is impossible to travel along the road, near the river, without observing most
evident traces of higher levels of the river than the present one ; the rocks are actually
worn as evidently as at the present high water mark ; and many of the sharp points of the
lower ones show, to conviction, that they were once small rocks in the St. Lawrence or the
ocean ; and that the now cultivated flat between the first ridge, being the river boundary,
and the second ridge, formed, at no very remote period, a part of the St. Lawrence, or
of the ocean.

•* The southern shores are thickly settled by the descendants of the French, who, at
different times, emigrated to Canada ; and the manners and customs of their ancestors are
tenaciously preserved. The villages and parishes have a general similarity of appearance ;
and although some of them are more extensive and much more populous than others, yet
one description is sufficient for all. They assuredly seem to be the very abodes of simplicity,
virtue, and happiness. In travelling, we pass along delighted through a beautiful rural
country with clumps of wood interspersed, amidst cultivated farms, pastures, and herds ;
decent parish churches, and neat white houses or cottages. The inhabitants are not only
civil, but always polite and hospitable. Beggary and the squalid beings of other parts of
the United Kingdom are here unknown."

The first arrival at Quebec, in the season of 1833, was on the 9th of May ; but it was
not till the end of the month that the harbour exhibited its spring appearance of a forest of
masts, or that the wharfs and streets of the lower town displayed that scene of activity
which characterises it as a great commercial port.

In the viciniti/ of Gaspe the spring is commonly frora a fortnight (o three weeks later

■s

ST. NICOLAS HARBOUR.

Ill

ts entrance

sels with a

., off which

settlement

Fox River,
Jed, conical
. Some of
ow Quebec,
I lakes, one
iiermen also
Mont Louis
o permanent

if it, a vessel

elf. It is 24

nuch smaller

the east than

the St. Anne
70 feet above

[ schooners at
who willingly

point which is
M5'19". At

the top ; hence
any other part

ER.

est parishes to
unequalled in

observing most
cks are actually
p points of the
iawrence or the
river boundary,
t. Lawrence, or

•"rench, who, at
bir ancestors are
I of appearance;
1 than others, yet
les of simplicity,
1 beautiful rural
Ires, and herds ;
|ts are not only

jf other parts of

but it was

e of a forest of
icene of activity

uee weeks later

than at Quebec : and this is attributed, not so much to the increase of latitude, as to the
proximity of the sea, with its ices. Here, on the 9th of June, 1833, the thermometer fell
to the freezing point, with showers of snow and sleet, and a heavy gale from the north.

Some remarkable instances have been given of ignorant commanders venturing up the
river, in thick weather, without sufficient precaution or taking soundings ; and one was
discovered who, by his reckoning, supposed himself by Cape Chatte, when he was actually
130 miles out of his reckoning, westward, in a space of 360, after having, four days before,
seen the west end of Anticosti.*

The north SHORE from CAPE de MONTS to the SAGUENAY RIVER.

The next projecting point, westward of Cape de Monts, is Point St. Nicolas, bearing
W. by N. 17| miles. Three miles N.E. by E. from this headland is Havre St. Nicolaty
or St. Nicolis Harbour: between these places, and 6i miles eastward of St. Nicolas, is a
little river, called Godbret or Goodbout River, where the Hudson's Bay Company
have a tradin)^ post, and where, therefore, provisions may occasionally be obtained, but
itJafTords no Jsnelter. This place may be known by the fall of the land on the east, and
clay cliffs on the west.

ST. MZCOZiAS' KARBOUXl.— At the entrance of this harbour vessels may
occasionally find shelter from westerly winds. The land about it is mountainous ; and, if
a ship b4|to the westward of the harbour, and bearing up for it, the entrance may be
distinguished from the circumstance of its having all the land on the west dry and
barren, the wood being burnt from the mountains; but, on the east side, the mountains
are green and covered with trees. To enter, run boldly in, between the burnt cape and
the green one, steering North, and the low point, which forms the west side of the
entrance, will appear like an island : this point has a wooden cross on it, which will be
seen on steering toward it. The eastern side of the entrance is limited by a reef, one-
quarter of a mile long, which stretches S.W. from the green cape ; opposite to this reef,
on the western side, is another : both dry at low water, but the largest is always to be
seen. The anchorage is a little to the northward of the stream of the easternmost reef, in
from 12 to 6 falhoms.

The distance between the points of the two reefs is about 1 mile ; both are bold ; 10
fathoms being close to the eastern, and 4 to the western, reef. Small vessels may haul
alongside the rock, just within the entrance on the west side, in 10 feet at low water.

At about 100 yards within the cross above-mentioned, a bar commences, which extends
thence across the entrance, and has only 10 feet over it at low ebbs. This part is only
two ships' length in breadth at low water, but the harbour widens inward to a large basin,
where vessels can lie perfectly land-locked in from 10 to 12 fathoms of water, good ground,
and on the S.W. side the water is deep close up to the rocks : this place is, however, a
bad outlet for ships bound to the westward, as an easterly wind blows directly in, and the
land around being mountainous, there is no getting in or out, in a square-rigged vessel,
with canvas set.

Those who proceed to the basin, must keep their canvas set, and borrow close round
the point on which the cross is erected ; then shoot in as far as they can, and down with
the anchor. To warp in, keep the western side on board.

The bank to the southward of the eastern reef, and all along the shore, is very steep ;
there is a depth of 50 fathoms at about 500 yards from it. Near the reef, in 20 fathoms,
cod-fish are generally abundant.

At St. Nicolas' Harbour the tide flows, on the full and change days, at 1 h. 55 m.
Spring-tides rise 12 feet; neaps 7 feet. The flood, of spring-tides, runs to the westward
about two miles an hour, and thus along-shore up to the Saguenay River.

English Bay is 11 J miles W.N.VV. from Cape St. Nicolas. It affords no anchor-
age. On its western side is St. Giles^ Point, opposite the north-eastern point of the
Peninsula of Manicougan, and which is the termination of the bold and rocky coast to
the eastward of it, while that to the west of it is low and wooded, and this circumstance

• In the description of the lower part of the river, with Gaspe Bay, &c., we have been consi-
derably assisted by the instructions pviblishcd by Nath. Gould, Esq., cliairinan of the North
American Colonial Association : to the same gentleman wc arc indebted for these remarks on the
river in general.

11^

MANICOUGAN BAY.

will enable a vessel to ascertain her position on the coast, whether to the east or west of
this part, and of her approach to the dangerous Manicougan shoals.

MAMZCOVGAN BAY and SHOALS.— This dangerous bay is 1 1 miles W. by
N. from Point St. Nicolas. The shore between is bold and rocky ; the land high, and the
water deep. The flood-tide sets strongly into the bay, and the ebb strongly out. The
land forming the western point of the bay is much lower than any other near it, and may
be readily known by its yellowish sand and clay cliffs, with a fine beach, and very flat for
more than two miles off.

The east end of the great shoal of Manicougan lies )l\ miles VVest from Point St.
Nicolas. This end is of rocks, terminating in a spit, and dries at low water. The S.VV.
point of the Bay, called Manicougan Point, is 174 miles W. by S. from Point St, Nicolas.
From Manicougan Point the land thence westward trends in a curve, 12 miles, to OuturHe
or Bustard Point, at the mouth of Outarde River, and the great slioal borders the whole,
to the distance of 2\ miles from shore. The tide of ebb and flood sets along its edges,
but is not perceptible at more than 5 or 6 miles off shore ; and on that part, off Manicougan
Point, is a great ripple. On the shore, within the shoal, the tides ebb one mile from
high-water mark, and heavy breakers are seen on its edges, with high reefs of rocks.

To the westward of the Land of Manicougan are the River and Bay of OUTARDE.
The latter is terminated by Point Bersiamites or Bersimis, which is sandy and covered
with trees, and the whole is lined with extensive and dangerous shoals. Ships, in rounding
Bersimis Point, should advance no nearer to it than two miles, as the shoal surrounding it
is steep-to.

Ships being up to Bersimis Point with the wind at west, and flood tide, may cross cer
thence to Father Point, and engage a pilot for the river. Should the wind be at S.VV. by
W., keep the north land on board until sure of fetching the point.

In Outarde Bay the ebb-tide is slack, and the flood strong. Ships may always get
ground in the bay, but should stand in no nearer than two miles from shore.

The Manicougan, and Outarde or Bustard, are very large rivers, but unfortunately their
navigation is much interrupted by falls at a short distance from the St. Lawrence. The
water of the Outarde is entirely white, occasioned by lai-ge quantities of impalpable sand
and clay being held in suspension ; and the vessel^ in sailing through it, by displacing the
superflcial stratum of lighter and fresh water, fuli of these earthy particles, leaves in her
wake a dark blue streak, which may be traced as far as the eye can reach. This sand and
clay are the deposit of the rivers, which, in the course of ages, have formed the alluvial
peninsula of Manicougan, and also the dangerous and extensive shoals of the same name.
The River Bersimis is navigable for small vessels as far as ten miles from the entrance, and
it can be ascended to the falls, nearly^O miles, but it would be difficult for a sailing vessel
to reach as far.

Jeremie Island is 6 miles westward of Point Bersimis, the sandy coast extending between
them. On the main, opposite the island, is a post of the Hudson's Bay Company, the
houses of which may be seen very plainly from within the distance of 6 miles.

Cfipe Colombier is 5 miles westward of Jeremie, and off it is the Gulnare Slioal, dis-
covered by Captain Bayfield in 1830. It is a narrow ridge of granite rock, nearly 2 miles
long, parallel to the shore, and having from 2 to 3 fathoms over it at low water.

Baie de Laval is 8 miles westward of Cape Colombier. Laval Inland is in the mouth of
the bay, and all within it is dry at low water. Vessels may approach this bay to within 6
fathoms depth, but to the eastward, between IFild Fowl Reef and the Gulnare Shoal, the
coast ought not to be kept closer than in 30 fathoms.

Port Neuf is another settlement of the Hudson's Bay Company, the buildings of which
are readily seen. It may be known by a range of remarkable clay cliffs, like chalk cliffs,
between it and Baie de Laval, the only land of this appearance in the river, and which,
therefore, is a sure mark.

Point Mille Vaches is 4 miles S.W. from Port Neuf; it is low and sandy, and the shoals
off it contract the navigable breadth of the river, between it and Bicquetle, to 1 1^ miles.
The N.W. reef of Bicquette bears from the point S.S.E. J E., 12 J miles.

To the west of it is the Baie de Mille Vaches, which is filled with shoals of sand and
rock, the western parts of which are deep and dangerous. The bay extends to the Esquemin
Isles, 12 miles S.W. ^ W. from the point.

. or west of

liles W. by
jIi, and the
out. The
,t, and may
irery flat for

n Point St.

The S.W.
St, Nicolas.

to Outarde
3 the whole,
r its edges,
Vlanicougan
; mile from
ocks.

lUTARDE.

md covered
in rounding
mounding it

ly cross c-'er
! at S.W. by

r always get

unately their
k-rence. The
alpable sand
isplacing the
eaves in her

his sand and
the alluvial

same name.

inirance, and
ailing vessel

ling between
tompany, the

\e Shoal, dis-
jarly 2 miles

•

ihe mouth of

to within 6

\e Shoal, the

igs of which

I chalk clitfs,

and which,

lid the shoals
10 1 1^ miles.

I of sand and
le Esquemin

TIIK SAGLENAY IIIVKR.

113

The coast west of this is bold and free from danger, but has no shelter.

THE SAG-VENAT RZVER enters the St. Lawrence between Lark Point on
the west, and Point Vaches on the east, opposite Red Island, 23 miles westward of the
Esquemin Isles.

This extraordinary river, which was imperfectly known till the late surveys, is as remark-
able for the great volume of water which it brings down to the St. Lawrence, as for the
enormous depth of its bed, which is fully 100 fathoms lower than that of the St. Lawrence,
It comes from the Lake St. John, and at Chicoutimi, a trading post of the Hudson's Bay
Company, which is 65 miles above its mouth, it becomes navigable, and 6 miles above
which, to the rapids, the tide ascends. To Point Roches, 57 miles from the St. Lawrence,
and 8 miles below Chicoutimi, it is navigable for the largest ships ; and up to this part
there is no danger in the river, the shores consisting of steep precipices, some of the head-
lands rising more than 1000 feet in height.

The current runs down with great force, the ebb-tide varying from 3 to 5 knots, according
to the breadth of the river, which is from two-thirds of a mile to 2 miles. At the mouth of
the river, this ebb-tide runs at the rate of 7 knots over" Lark Islet Spit, and the S.W. extreme
of Point Vaches.

Tadousac, which is in the entrance of the river, was formerly the principal post of the
French, for trading with the Indians. It has declined, and now belongs to the Hudson's
Bay Company.

The harbour is off the settlement, a mile within Point Vaches, and is well sheltered ; but
a heavy anchor should be cast close in-shore, on account of the eddies which sometimes set
into it from the river.

Across the mouth of the river there is 18 to 20 fathoms, but immediately within, the depth
increases to above 100. The current setting strongly over this bar, meeting with the spring
ebbs of the St. Lawrence, cause breaking and whirling eddies and ripplings ; and these
streams opposed to a heavy easterly gale, cause an exceedingly high, cross, and breaking
sea, in which no boat could live. On the flood at such times, there is no more sea than in
other parts of the river.

To enter the Saguenay, have the beginning of the flood, and sufficient daylight to reach
Tadousac. Winds from the S.W. southward to N.E., will take vessels into the river with
the flood, but the N.E. is the most to be depended on ; but whether you approach from the
S.W. or N.E., bring the western points of the Brandy Pots and White Island in one, and
open to the southward of Hare Island, bearing S.S.W. \ W. Run upon this mark (and it
will lead you well clear of the Vaches Patch and Lark Reefs, oflT the mouth of the river,)
until La lioule Point comes in one with Point Hot, bearing N.W. by W, J W., which will
clear the S.W. side of Point Vaches Reef; Point Hot being the rather low N.W. point of
the Hiirbour of Tadousac, and La Boule, a high and round-backed hill, forming a steep
headland, 4 miles above Tadousac, and the extreme point seen on tl»e same side of the river.

Haul in for the last-named leading mark, keeping the S.W. extreme of La Boule just
open, which will clear all dangers; and when as far in as Point Rouge, hear towards the
trading post, into the harbour, dropping your outer anchor in 16 fathoms, and the inner
one close to, or within low water mark.

The SOUTH SHORE Ijltween CAPE CHATTE and GREEN ISLAND.

Between Cape Chatte and Matane, in a distance of 1 1 leagues, the shore is all bold and
bound with rocks.

In proceeding' up the river, after passing Cape Chatte, the first place of remark is Matane
River, distinguished by a large square white house, and a long barn level on the top. This
place may be known from within the distance of 3 miles, by its houses and a bluff" clifF,
close to the entrance on the western side. Many pilots live here. The River of Matane
admits small craft only. The chief settlements occupy both banks, and extend about one
mile from its mouth. The two remarkable mountains, called the Paps of Matane, stand
inland to the westward of Matane River, and form the grand mark for this part of the coast.
At 7^ leagues to the westward of Matane River, is the western point of Little Metis
Bay, a spot surrounded by rocks, excepting the entrance, and in which small vessels may
find shelter from westerly winds, in 3 fathoms at low water. The coast from Matane to
Little Metis is entirely barren. Little Metis is situate on a long, low, flat, and rocky point,

fir

114

CAPE CHATTE TO GREEN ISLAND.

with several white houses, extending about a cable's length to the N.E. This is n<>ticed as
a guide to the anchorage at Grand Metin, which is 5 miles farther westward. On opening
the l)ay, (say close in-shore,) a square house will be first observed, near the water side; a
mile failher, in the S.VV. corner, up the b;iy, in the same view, will be seen the upper part
only of a house, which is the establishment of Grand Metis.

A vessel may close in with Little Metis Point into 6 or 7 fathoms of water, and run for
Grand INIetis, by the lead, in from 5 to 8 fathoms. Should the vessel be turning up, on the
north shore, or in mid-channel, Mount Camilte, which will be seen, should be brought to
bear S.W. by S., which will lead from sea to the bay.*

The cove of Grand or Great Metis is nearly dry at low water. A small vessel may bring
up here in 3 fathoms, with the wind from S.W., but with a west wind it affords no shelter.
The points that, form these coves are very low, and cannot be distinguished beyond the
distance of 2 leagues. Great Metis has a large rock in the middle of the cove, Little Metis
has none ; and the latter may be known from the former, by observing that a round bluff
rock lies at its entrance, on the eastern side ; not far from which, on the east, is a small hill
on the mountain, in form of a sugar-loaf.

Grand Metis has risen into notice from the erection of saw mills. The mills are on a
fall of the river, about three miles up. The river is a small stream, greatly impeded by
rapids when not swelled by freshes; and it has been found necessary to dam it with wicker-
work and mud for a considerable distance, to keep back water enough to float the logs
down to the mill. From the mill the deals are floated down a d'dl or trough to the basin,
for shipment ; part of the distance being cut through soil and rocks 14 feet deep. The
deals produced are spruce, and a very superior yellow pine.

At about half a mile from the debouche of the river is a rocky islet, forming a secure and
picturesque basin. Over the sand bar, at the entrance of this basin, is a depth of 14 or 15
feet at low water, and ample room for two vessels to lie stem and stern of each other. The
passage in is buoyed.

The tide here, on the full and change, flows at ten minutes past two o'clock, and rises
from 12 to 14 feet.

With a ship of great draught it is advisable to lie in 6 fathoms at low water, with the
house at the east side of the River Metis, open to the eastward of the islet in the bay, so
that the river may be seen between them. The high land of Bic will then be just clear of
Cape Orignal } some of the houses of Little Metis will be seen, and Mount Camille will
bear S.S.VV. ; in such a mooring the swell is broken before it comes in by the shore. The
ground, being clay, is excellent for anchorage ; and, with one anchor to the eastward, and
another to the westward, the vessel will ride in perfect security.

From hence, along the shore, will be observed at great distances, the small white houses
of the inhabitants, which are mostly occupied by pilots or fishermen, who have cultivated
small patches of land around them. Occasionally, when, from a wet summer, the harvest
of the westward has failed, these small farnners reap a benefit by the greater backwardness
of their seasons.

Between Great Metis and the next inlet, named Cock Cove, will be seen the high land
of Mount Camille. The bearing and distance between the Coves are W. by S. 3J-
leagues ; and, from Cock Cove to the projecting land of Father Point, W. | S., 4| miles*.
Here will be seen a number of houses ; this place being the regular rendezvous for the pilots.

Barnabv Island presents nothing remarkable. A reef extends from each end of it,
under which small vessels may find shelter. Between the island and the main the bank is
dry at low water, but there is a depth of 14 feet over it at high water of spring-tides. With
neap-tides only 9 feet. At the little River Ottey, b miles S.W. from Barnaby Island, fresh
water may be obtained.

At a distance of 3 miles to the westward of the Ottey, the coast forms the Harbour of
Bic, which aff"ords shelter to small vessels from westerly winds. Two round islets mark
the eastern side of it, and it is one mile from them to the western side of the harbour. The
anchorage is iTsidway between these and the west side, in 3 fathoms, the western point
bearing west.

• Mount Camille is f»| miles inland from the nearest shore. Its summit is 203G feet above the level
of the sea.

nv>ticed as
In opening
er side; a
upper part

nd run for
up, on the
brought to

may bring
no shelter,
beyond the
Little Metis
round bluff
a small hill

Is are on a
mpeded by
iritli wicker-
jat the logs

the basin,
deep. The

1 secure and
of 14 or 15
otiier. The

;k, and rises

er, with the
the bay, so

just clear of

amille will

hore. The

stward, and

fhite houses

\e cultivated

the harvest

ickwardness

lie high land
by S. 31
, 4^ miles.
)r the pilots.

end of it,
the bank is
tides. With
[sland, fresh

Harbour of
I islets mark
Irbour. The
^stern point

love the level

GREEN ISLAND.

\\5

Nearly 3 miles west from Die Harbour, and at the same distance south from Bic Islaml,
is Cape Orignal, or Arignole. From this cape a reef extends one mile E. by N.

The high land of' Bic lies S.VV. by S., 21 miles from the N.VV. extremity of the cape; it
is very remarkable when seen up or down the river, as it consists of high and narrow ridges,
parallel with the coast, the summit being \23i feet above the sea.

The ISLE BIC is of moderate height, and covered with trees. This island is 3 miles in
length, from east to west, and reefs extend from it to the east, west, and north. At three-
quarters of a mile from the north side, is tlie islet called Bicfjuette, which is also woody.
IJicquetle is quite bold on the north side, and there are 30 fathoms at a musket-shot from
it; but within the extent of a mile and a quarter to the west of it is a chain of reefs, which
are dangerous. Between Bic and Bicquette there is a passage, but it is intricate ; there are
no marks for it, and it will be best understood from the chart.

The S.E. i?ee/ extends H mile E. by S. from the S.E. point of Bic Island, and liie
channels between the rocks and the island should not be attempted.

The N.E. Reef, a small patch of black rocks, lies N.W. § W. above a mile from the
former, and 400 fathoms N.E. by E. from the N.E. point of the island.

The jrest Grounds of Bic are an extensive flat of slate, which partly dries at low water,
the outer point of which is three-quarters of a mile VV. i S. from the west point of the
island.

The Alcides Rock, on which the ship of that name struck in the year 1760, has only 4
feet over it, and bold-to. This rock lies at a mile and three-quarters from the shore, with
the west end of the Isle iiic bearing N.E. 33 miles, and Cape Orignal E. J N. 41 miles. Ten
fathoms of water lead to the northward of it.

At a mile and a half from shore, and 14^ miles S.VV. by W. J VV. from the west end of
Bic, lies the N.E. of two islets called the Razades ; these are two large rocks always above
water. They bear from each other nearly S.VV. and N.E., one mile and a half distant.
Ten fathoms of water lead to the northward of them.

Basque Island, a small narrow isle, extending one mile and a quarter E.N.E. and
W.S.VV., bears VV.S.W. 5 miles from the N.E. Razade, and S.W. by VV. J VV. 20 miles
from the west end of Bic : it appears round ; is bluff, and covered with trees. There are
no houses on it ; extending to the N.VV. from its west end, is a ledge of rocks, dry at low
water, and steep-to.

Apple Isle, a narrow barren islet, with rocks, lies at 3 miles VV.S.W. i VV. from the
west end of Basque, and 21 miles from shore. Between it and the land there is no passage.

GREEN ISLAND. — This island, with the reefs that project from each end of it, is 2^
leagues in extent from N.E. by E. to S.W. by W. Two famdies reside upon it. The most
remarkable object on it, is a lighthouse which stands on its northern side, at about 1^ mile
from the N.E. end, and which shows a fixed light at 60 feet above the level of low water-
mark.* The bearing and distance of Basque Island from the lighthouse, are E.N.E. } E.
8^ miles: and from the lighthouse to the extremity of the S.W. reef of Green Island, S.W.
by VV. 5J miles. There is no other danger on the north side of the island than a dan-
gerous reef, which extends from the lighthouse IJ mile N.N.E. ^ E. This ledge is a
reef of rocks which are steep-to, and covered at high water of spring-tides. The other part
is steep-to and rocky.f

The ledge of Green Island, Basque Island, and the high land to the southward of Cape
Orignal, in a line bear E.N.E. ^ E.

To ships, on coming up and going down the river, the lighthouse appears like a ship,
and very conspicuous. In the night the light may be distinctly seen at the distance of five
leagues.

• This lighthouse, according to an official notice, dated 21st Sept., 1809, will exhibit a light, nightly,
from sun-set to sun-rise, from the 15th day of April to the 10th day of December, inclusive. From
the lighthouse the extremity of Green Island Reef bears N.E. by N. one mile and a quarter; and the
extremity of the shoal at the west end of the island, S.W. by W. Gi miles; Apple Isle, E.N.E. 5
miles ; the islet called Red Isle, in the middle of the river, N.W. by W. § W. 5| miles ; and the
Brandy Pots, near Hare Isle, S.W. by W. | W. 15 miles.

t The j4rchduke Charles, transport, from Quebec, having on board six companies of the Nova-
Scotia militia, was wrecked on one of the reefs, and eight persons perished, Moy, 18IC.

DESCRIPTION OF THE UIVEU.

The reef from tlie west end of Green Island dries to the distance of a mile from tlie
island. The westernmost part is detached from the body of it, and the tide sets through the
interval toward Cacona. This part is covered at a quarter flood.

The description of the UIVliR continued.

Red Isr.AND lies in the middle of the estuary, off the mouth of the Saguenny River, and
bears N.W. by \V. J W. nearly 5^ miles from the light-house on Green Island. It is a
low, flat islet, of a reddish colour, without trees, and partially covered with grass. The
reef, which extends 2^ miles to the N.E. and is \}j mile wide, is r.arly dry in some parts
at low water; the eastern extremity of this reef bears nearly N.W. by N. from the liglit-
house. The depth decreases gradually on its eastern end, but the islet is bold-to on the
S.W. The eastern end of the reef is quite cleared by keeping the light-house and beacon
on (Jrten Island in one, bearing S.S.E. J E.*

Lahk Reef, on the north side of the River, lies opposite to the western point of Green
Isliuid, bearing N.W. 8 miles from it, contracting the navigation of the river to this breadth.
It is at the S.E. extremity of a shoal, extending from Lurk Point, the western point of
the entrance of the Saguenay River, as before described, and which bears N. by W. 3 miles
from it. Tiie space between it and the shore dries at low water, nearly out to the point ;
this can be avoided, as well as those to the N.E. of it, lying off the mouth of the river, by
keeping the western sides of the Brandy Pots and White Island in one, and open to the
southward of IJare Island, bearing S.S.W. i W. ; but this mark is distant, and cannot
always be seen.

The NORTHERN SHORE of the River, from the Saguenay to Coudres Island, is
bold and mountainous. The granitic hills in most parts rise immediately from the river,
forming steep precipitous headlands. Near the entrance of the Saguenay these hills are not
above 1000 feet high, but those of the Eboulemens attain an elevation of 2547 feet above
the lide>watcrs of the river.

Cape Basque is the first mountainous headland S.W. of the Saguenay, bearing
S.W. J S. 6^ miles from Lark Point, and about l^ mile northward of it is the Echufand
du Basque, a small rocky islet in the mouth of a cove, and bearing 4;J^ miles W. by S. from
the S.E. extreme of Lark Reef, the shoal of which extends as far as this place.

Basque Road is a well-sheltered anchorage lying off this, the best pi Jtion being with
the Echafaud bearing W.N.W. rather less than a mile distant, in 10 or 11 fathoms over
clay bottom.

Bay of Rocks is about 25 miles south-westward from Cape Basque, and affords shelter
only to boats. Cape Dogs_ 5 J miles S.W. | S. of Cape Basque, is quite bold and high ;
and similar to it is Cape Salmon, which is S.W. I S. 9| miles distant from it. Farther to
the westward, about IJ mile, is Port Salmon, which, like Port Parsley and Kettle Port,
to the eastward, are only boat harbours. The settlements are nearly continuous on the
banks from hence to Quebec.

Cape Eagle is 5\ miles S.W. by W. i W. from Cape Salmon, and is of the same
character.

Murray Bay is 6J miles W. by S. from Cape Eagle; it is a beautiful place. The
Day is I J mile wide, and nearly as deep, and a rapid and unnavigable river falls into the
head of it, on which are seveial grist and saw-mills. The bay is nearly all dry at low
water, except the shallow channels leading to the river. Vessels occasionally anchor ofi'
the bay, with Point Gaze, iia east point, bearing W. by N. about 400 fatioms, Point Pies,
its west point, S.W. i W., and Point Heu E.N.E. i E.

The River at this part, between the Saguenay and Cape Eagle, is divided into two
channels, by the Red Island and bank above described, and the shoals and reefs extending
in a line along the middle of the river, at each end of Hare Island, in a N.E. and S.W.
direction.

• The Minstrel brig, Capt. Outerbridge, which sailed from Limerick, 21st April, 1841, with 141
passengers, emigrants to Canada, struck on Red Island Reef, May 18th, at 4 a. m. A heavy sea
was then running, and more than a hundred passengers embarked in the boats, when the vessel
heeled into deep water, and instantly went down stern foremost. All in the boats perished, with llie
brave and worthy captain, except four of the crew and four passengers. The survivors reacht'd
White Island, whence they were taken ofi" l)y Captain M'Intyre, of the Wellington, and conveyed
to Grosse Island.

! from the
irough the

Iliver, and

;. It is a
rass. The
some parts
\ the light-
1-to on the
\nd beacon

it of Cirecn
lis breadth,
irn point of
W. 3 miles
> the point ;
le river, by
open to the
and cannot

IS IsUind, is
m the river,
hills are not
7 feet above

ay, bearing

^e Echufoud

by S. from

being with
athoms over

brds shelter

1 and high ;

Farther to

ettle Fort,

ous on the

|>f the same

blace. The
Ills into the
Idry at lovir
anchor off
r*oin/ Fies,

into two

[s extending

and S.W.

)l, with 141
[a heavy sea
the vessel
^ed, with the
vors reachi'il
id conveyed

MARE ISLAND, ScC,

117

The NORTH CIIANNFX, though not that which is generally used, is clear, deep, and
broad, and might be used advantageously under proper circumstances, as in the case of
scant and strong N.W. winds; but with easterly winds and thick weather, or at ninht, it
must not be attempted, as there would be no leading marks, and the depth is too grrat and
ii regular toaffoid any guidance, besides the want of shelter or anchorage on the north shore.

WiiiTF, IsLANu, on Hare Island North Ileef, is covered with trees, and bears from Red
Island S.W. i VV. nearly 10 miles, and from the N.K. end of Hare Island N.IO. ) N.
I J miles. A shoal of rocks extends from White Island N.K. \ K. 3 miles, and dries to
the greatest part of that distance. Between the N.Fi. end of this shoal and Red Island,
(jj miles distant, the channel is quite free from danger.

IIARR ISLAND, &r.— The east end of this island lies S.W. J S. a mile and a half
from White Island ; thence it extends 7^ miles to the S.W., and is in no part one mile in
breadth : in a great part not half a mile. It is 230 or 300 feel high, and thickly wooded.

At S. by W. one mile and a half from the N.F. end of Hare Island, lie the three islets
called the IIrandy Pots and Noggin. The northern Brandy Pot, high and covered witli
trees, is close to the southern one, and the bottom between it is dry at low water. The
southern is a whitish rock, almost barren, the wood being nearly burnt off. The Mog^'in,
which lies to the N.E. of the northern Brandy Pot, il likewise covered with trees. At low
water these islets are connected by a chain of rocks, leaving a passage for a boat only.
Half-way between the Noggin and the N.K. extremity of Hare Island, at half n mile from
shore, there is also a reef, dry at low water ; but all these are out of the fair-way. The
depth of 7 fathoms leads clear of them.

To the south-westward of the Brandy Pots the south side of Hare Island has a flat of hard
cround extending from it, three miles in length, and about one-quarter of a mile in breadth.
The whole of this side of the island is bound with rocks.

HARE ISLAND BANK. — This is an extensive shoal lying above, and nearly in, the
direction of Hare Island. It commences at about a mile S.E. from the S.W. end of the
island, and extends thence S.W. by W. and S.W, nine miles. There is good anchorage on
its south side, in 7 fathoms. On its northern side is Hake Island South Rcef, the
greatest portion of which is uncovered at low water, to an extent of y^ miles ; the part
always uncovered is clothed with grass and spruce-bushes, lying 2.J miles to the S.W. of
Hare Island. The western extremity of his reef bears from that of the Pilgrims N.W. by N.
3 J miles ; and the eastern end is nearly uorth 4 J miles from the same. Off the east end of
the bank, about a quarter of a mile distant, is a small rocky 2-fathom Knoll, on which
White Island will be just shut in behind the south side of Hare Island; and at two-thirds
of a mile from the east end of the bank is a 3-fathom shoa/y on which White Island will
be midway between the Brandy Pots and Hare Island.

The SOUTH CHANNEL, between these banks and the south shore of the river, is
justly preferred for the common purposes of navigation. The tides are not so strong, nor the
water so inconveniently deep, as in the channel on the north side of the river : it has good
anchorage in every part, and a sufficient depth for any ships.

The breadth of the channel, in its most contracted part, between Ilare Island Bank and
the Pilgrims, is two miles, and its greatest depths 7, 8, 10, to 13, 15, and 16, fathoms,
mud, sand, and gravel.

BARRETT LEDGE.— reef thus called is composed principally of two detached
rocks, on the south side of which is a black buoy. This buoy lies with the northern
extremity of the main land within Green Island, in a line with the northernmost high land
of Cape Orignal, bearing N.E. by E. | E. ; the summit of the southernmost mountain of
the high land of Kamonrasca in one with the south point of the Great Pilgrim Island,
S.S.W. f W. ; the eastern side of the trees on Hare Island in one with the west cape of
the Bay of Rocks, (on the north shore,) N.W. ; and two houses near the Rivibre du Loup,
S.S.E. ^ E. ; the latter are the only two houses between the church and Rivifere du Loup.

The rocks of Barrett Ledge bear from each other N. 63° E. and S. 63° W. one-quarter
of a mile. The N.E. rock has 10 feet over it ; the S.W. has 12. Between them is a depth
of 7 and 8 fathoms.

At a mile S.W. from the S.W. side of Barrett Ledge, lies a small bank of 10 feet, called
the Middle Shoal, with the Brandy Pots bearing N.W. | W. distant a mile and a half.
Near it on the N.E. are from 6 to 8 fathoms of water. Tliis shoal appears to be the
extremity of the remains of a narrow Middle Bank, extending thence two leagues S.W.

I!
4

118

KAMOURASCA.

I :

by W., and unnn which there are still from 4 to 3) and 3 futhoms, on apnronchirig to the
Hare Island nank. In the channel between the Middle Shoal and Branny Pots are from
10 to IB rjthon\s of water; but in that tu the southward the general depths are 7 and ti to
5 and 4 fulhoiiis.

On the SotTii SaoKE of the River, the first poijit westward of Green Island, is the
remarkable rocky peninsula of (Jacona, lying S.S.NV. from the S.VV. end of Gn'cn Island.
At a mile and a half south-westward of (Jacona, and just to the northward of the strcant
of it, are the Percie Hocks, two clusters, occupying the extent of a mile and a half. Tliey
lie at about one mile from, and parallel with, the main, and are nearly covered at high water.
Gri the south side of them there is a narrow 3i-fathoin channel : the depth of 10 fathoms
leads clear on the north ; and Green Island ,ind Cacona just touching, and bearing
N.E. } K., will keep 3 fathoms depth on their north side.*

The PILGIllMS. — Five islets, called the I'lLoniMs, lie at the distance of 14 miles
above the peninsula of Cacona, at a mile and a half from the shore. They occupy an
extent of 4i miles N.E. by E. and S.W. by VV., and are based upon the Banc du Loup (or
VN'olf Hank) extending from shore above the river of the same name, and on the exterior
part of which the depths are 2i and 3 fathoms. They are connected by reefs that dry at
low water. The easternmost is the highest, and is covered with trees; the others are barren
and of a whitish colour. They are bold-to on the north side, but there is no passage for
shipping between them and the shore.

From the N.E. or Great Pilgrim the Brandy Pots bear N.N.E. 71 miles, and the S.W.
end of Hare Island N.W. by N. 4J miles. Hereabout the ebb runs downward at about
2^ miles an hour.

Without the edge of the Banc du Lortp is a sand-bank, called the Pilgrim Shoal. It is
narrow, but 4 miles in length, and its general depUis 13 and 14 feet at low water. A depth
of 7 and 8 fathoms clears it on the north side.

KAMOURASCA ISLES. — This is a group of narrow islets, lying at the distance of two
leagues above the Pilgrims, on the same side of the river. The N.E. or Grand hie bears
from the Pilgrims S.\V. by W. The bunk between is steep-to. The island next to the
Great Island is Burnt Island, and the third of the larger isles is Crow Island. These isles
are about three miles in extent, and one to two from the shore; the bank within is dry at
low water. Great Island and Burnt Island are very steep on the north side, but Crow
Island is surrounded with shoal water.

The settlement of Kamourasca is within the islands above described. Its church bears
S.E. nearly a mile from Crow Island. From the latter. Cope Dinble bears S.W. ^ W.
about three miles, but a long reef extends from the cape toward the island, the easternmost
part of which is covered at a quarter flood, and is little more than a mile from Crow Islan<l.
Two miles above Cape r3iable is Faint St. Denis ; and a small cove on the south of this
point. From Point St. Denis to Point Oval (Quelle), the land trends irregularly six miles
to the S.W.f

f' '*"bn the main land, within Basque Island, is ihe settlement otTrois Pistoles ,• on the same side,
"nthiu Green' Island, are\the church and|village of that name; and at five miles from the latter are the
promontory and parish of Cacona : next above which, opposite to Hare Island, is the Riviere du Loup,
' These settlements do not extend far beyond the river or front range, which exhibits neat farm-
houses, large barns, and extensive enclosures, bearing evidence of a good soil and industrious cul-
tivation.'

f The Parish of St. Andrd, or St. Andrew, with its church, are on the main-land above the
Pilgrims. Hereabout the land rises very near the river, in a steep ascent, to an elevation of from
150 to 200 feet.

Hence to Kamourasca, a distance of about nine miles, the country is diversified by abrupt and
insulated hills, whose craggy and almost barren faces are generally contrasted with well-cultivated
fields. '^^

Kamourasca is a populous village, celebrated for the remarkable salubrity of its atmosphere, and is
now the chief watering-place of Lower Canada; as such, it is the resort of numerous visitors, of the
first rank and respectability, during the summer months. Here are a few shops, and several good
taverns.

The next respectable village is a beautiful one on the River Quelle, which likewise has its church
and very neat dwelling-houses, &c.

The church of St. Anne stands at about a mile inland, 3^ miles south from the mouth of the
Quelle.

litiG; to the
s are from
7 ami to

nd, is Iho
•en hiaiul.
Ihti stream
lalf. They
lii^h water.
10 fathoms
id bearing

)f 14 miles
occupy an
la Loup (or
[he exterior
that «lry at
1 are barren
passage for

d the S.VV.
ird at about

hoal. It is
ir. A deptjj

tance of two
id hie hears
next to the

These isles
in is dry at

, but Crow

;hurch bears
S.W. ^ W.

easternmost
Irow Island,
louth of this
:ly six miles

lie same side,
] latter are the
\iere du Loup.
Is neat farm-
lustrious cul-

pcl above the
Ition of from

abrupt and
lell-cultivated

ohere, and is
Esitors, of the
Isevcral good

las its church

kouth of the

ISLE AUX COUDRES.

119

On ihp pxtremily of a shallow hay, at six miles westward from St. Anno's, otniid the
villa^'e and church of St. Roqnc. The country between is oc('upie<l with settlements, and
an extensive mud. hunk, with larRe scattered stones, uncovered at low water, extends in
front of it. This nnid-bank is included within the (greater bank of sand called the S/iunli
of St. Anue and of .S7. Uoijhc, exteiidini: more than a third over the river, from the southern
Hliore, and limiting the channel on the suuth side.

Opposite to Point Quelle, on the north side of the river, is Cape aur Oicn, or Goose
Ciipf, which is bold and rocky, formiiiif the western extremity of Mai. Hay ; I'oint an Pits,
on the west of Murray Hay, 9 J miles N.K. i N. from (Joose Cape, being the eastern ex-
Ireniily. Mai Hay is formed by a slight incurving of the coast ; shoals extend a (piarter of
a mile offshore, and there is no good anchorage in it.

Cape Martin is three miles \V. hy S. from Cape aux Oies ; between them is good
anchorage, and about midway is a large stone called the (Jrosse Rock.

Vessels anchor in 7 fathoms, the Grosse Kock bearing N.W., being here sheltered from
the tides, which run past Goose Cape with great rapidity, and occasion at times a strong
rippling. •

TSLEl AUX COUDRES is opposite to Point St.Roque on the south shore; and at
this part the navigation of the river upward becomes intricate, from the numerous banks
and islands which form the Traverses and numerous other channels.

The island is 6 miles long and 2 J wide; its eastern end is 2 J miles S.VV. from C!ape
Martin. The island, being cidtivated, has a pleasing aspect; it has as many itdiabitants as
it can support, having been settled at an early period. Its south shore is Imed with rocks
and shoals, extending a mile out from it. Its north side is bold, and Prairie Bay affords
excellent anchorage. There is areef of rocks running off the N.W. of the island, which
p.re all covered at high water. The bearing from the end of the ledge are, St. Pierre Church
in St. Paul's Hay just open, bearing N.W. 4 N. ; Cape Corbcatt, the east bluff of St.
Paul's Hay, N.N.VV. J W. ; the waterfall on the north shore, N.N.K. J K. ; the bluff point
of the island, S.S.E. ; and the N.E. bluff point of the same, off which is a reef of rocks,
E. JN.

The Nonxii Channel to Quebec is to the north of Isle aux Coudres, and runs along the
high northern shore of the river; and on the south side of it is the line of shoals, which
extend from the west side of Isle aux Coudres to Burnt Cape Ledge and the I3ayfield
Isles.

The Middle Channel is to the south of the Isle aux Coudres, the entrance being
between it and the Middle Ground, whence it runs westward along the shoals between it and
the Seal Islands, and to the north of Goose and Canoe Islands, into the South Traverse.

The South Travepse, that which is generally used by vessels at present, is along the
south side of the river.

SOUTH TRAVERSE.— 27*6 entrance of the South Traverse lies between a buoy,
chequered black and white, on the edge of St. Anne's Bank, on one side, and the bank
called the Middle Ground on the other. The narrowest part of the channel is indicated by
a light-vessel, stationed a. nearly 5 miles W.S.W. from tne chequered buoy of Si. Anne's,
and which is to be left, on sailing upward, on the larboard or south side.

At nearly a mile W. by S. above the light-vessel is a white buoy on the Middle Ground,
to be left on the starboard side ; and, at the same distance S.W. by S. is a black buoy on
the larboard side. The passage between these buoys is only half a mile broad, and this is
the most intricate part of the navigation in the river. The courses up, from these buoys,
to abreast of a red buoy, on the edge of the southern bank, that of St. Jean, are S.W. ^ S.
4 miles, and S.W. by S. 2 miles, whence you enter the South Traverse, distinguished on the

Insulated cliffs characterise the scenery about Kamourasca. They are composed of granite, and
generally rise in abrupt slopes, presenting rugged faces, thinly clad with dwarf trees. The highest
of these hills is the Moutagnc Ste. Anne, which peers above a fine country at its base. To the we.-,t
is the settlement of St. Roqiie dcs Aunais ; and to the southward trends a bold but not very high riJgc
skirting the most luxuriant fields. At the eastern base of the mountain, very agreeably situated upon
an eminence, are the small village of St. Anne, the parish church, the parsonage house, and a large
stone college, three stories high, on an elevated and salubrious spot.

120

GOOSE AND BAYFIKLD IbLES.

Sin,

ll».-rl

north side by a rocky islet, named the Stone Pillar, or Pilier de Pierre, which is always
above water, and a quarter of a mile in length, at 2| miles from the south shore.*

About 2i miles north-westward of the Stone Pillar is a 3-fathom shoal, called the
Channel Patch, lying in the mid-channel, and below it are several other patches, with from
2J to 3 fathoms. The marks for the Channel Patch, which may be passed on either side,
are the north sides of the (ioose Island Reef and of the Stone Pillar in one, bearing
S.W. i VV., the latter being distant 'zJJ miles ; the north side of Goose Island (including the
islands close off it) and the south side of the Wood Pillar in one, bearing S.W. by W. J W«»
and lastly, S. Jean Church S.E. ^ S. 2} miles.

The Avignon, a half-tide rock, round on the top, and dry at three-quarters ebb, lies at
the distance of two cables' length S.E. from the body of the South Pillar, with a depth of
7 fathoms close to it.

The Pilier Boise, or Woody Pillar, a high round rock, with trees on the western part
of it, lies af a mile and a quarter to the west of the Stone Pillar, At half a mile to the east
of it is a rock, called the Middle Rock, dry at half-ebb.

To the northward of tha Piliers or Pillars are the Seal Reefs, composed of sand and
shingle on slate, and having an extent of nearly four miles N.E. by E. and S.W. by W.
To a considerable extent the rocks which form these reefs are dry at low water. The bank
on which they lie is extensive on the N.E. toward Coudre Island.

At a mile and a quarter S.W. from the Pilier Boise lies the extremity of a reef extendin;^
thence to Goose Island; and at a mile and a quarter S.W. \ W. from the Stone Pillar is
the commencement of a ledge of high rocks, called the Goose Island Reef, extending thence
2i miles S.W. J W., the western part of which is composed of rocks always above water,
and steep-to on their south side.

GOOSE ISLAND. — We have now advanced to Goose Island, connected by low
meadow land to Crane Island, the whole of which occupies an extent of ten miles in a
direction N.E. i E. and S.W. \ W. The South Traverse continues on the south side of
this island ; but is impeded by several shoals of 12 and 15 feet water, which require great
precaution.

A farm-house may be seen on Goose Island, to the eastward of which, and close to lovv-
wter mark, is a large rock called the Hospital Rock. Two miles and a half to the west-
v.!i:d of this rock is a long reef, dry at low water, but it is out of the fairway, and close
aiong the island.

The north side of Crane Island is in a good state of cultivation. On drawing toward
it vou will see a farm-house (Macpherson's) on the east end. To the S.E. at half a mile
from this house, is the edge of the Ueaujeu Bank, a narrow shoal which extends two miles
thence to N.E. J E., and having, on its shoalest part, only 12 feet at low water.

On the south shore, opposite to the N.E. end of Goose Island, are the settlement and
church of LUskt, and at seven miles higher are the cape and village of St. Ignace : between
are numerous settlements, and a shoal bank extends along shore, which is a mile and a half
in breadth, thus narrowing the channel-way to the breadth of a mile.

BAYFIELD ISLES. — To the west of Crane Island is a groupe which may, with strict
propriety, be called the Bayfield Isles, in compliment to the gentleman by whom they have
been so excellently surveyed. Exclusive of a number of smaller islets and rocks, the prin-
cipal isles are. Canoe Isle on the north side of Crane Island, Marguerite or Margaret to
the west, Grosse Isle, and Isle aux lieaux, otherwise Rat Island, and the Isle Madame.
The whole, between Crane Island and the Island of Orleans, occupies an extent of 14 miles.
There are several passages between the Isles, but they are too intricate to be understood
without reference to the chart.

From the west end of Crane Island a reef of rocks extends to the W.S.W. about half a
mile, and a spit of sand, of 9 to 12 feet water, a mile and a quarter thence, in the same
direction. From the S.W. side of Margaret Isle there is likewise a bank extending in a S.W.
direction, the extremity of which is marked by a red buoy. On the north side of this island

• Captain Bayfield says that the four buoys of the Traverse arc laid down in every spring, and
taken away in every autumn, at the close of the navigation. They arc never laid down two years
following in exactly the same place, from not being placed by angles, but they are always sufficiently
near it to answer the purpose required.

fe, (

h is always

2.*

called ihc
, with from
either side,
ne, bearing
icluding the
yW.jW.;

ebb, lies at
li a depth of

western part
e to the cast

}f sand and
S.VV. by W.
, Tiie bank

lef extending
.one Pillar is
nding thence
above water,

cted by low
m miles in a
iouth side of
require great

close to low-

lo the west-

ly, and close

iwing toward
laif a mile
s two miles

MIDDLK A\n NORTH CHANNELS.

V2l

tllement and
between
e and a half

y, with strict
»m they have
:ks, the prin-
Marparet to
ile Madame.

of 14 miles.

understood

about half a

in the same

Ing in aS.W.

>f diis island

spring, and

|wn two years

vs sufficiently

is a good roadstead, with 8 fathoms of water, lying about a mile to the east of Grosse Isle.
You enter from the southward with the red buoy above-mentioned on the starboard, and a
white buoy, three-quarters of a mile farther north, on the larboard side ; the course in being
N. by E.

Grosse Isle* which has a farm near its N.E. end, is about loO feet in height; and the
next isle, Reaux, which is long, narrow, low, and covered with trees, has one near its west
end. The Isle Madame is also low, covered with ti-ees, and has only one habitation. The
last two isles are wholly on a base of rock, and from the S.W. end of Madame the bank
extends 2i miles to the S.W., and thus foims the western entrance of the Northern Traverse,
on the eastern side of the Island of Orleans. A ship should not approach it nearer than in
7 or fathoms.

On the Southern Land, above the Beaujeu Bank, will be seen, in succession, the
churches of St. Ignace, St. Thomas, Berliner, St. Vallier, St. Michael, and Beaumont.
A large tract, in the vicinity of the Rivibre du Sud, is in so high a state of improvement,
as to be considered as ihe granary of the province. The western side of this river is dis-
tinguished by the respectable village of St. Thomas, and the country about it is very fine,
exhibiting churches and villages ; the houses, being generally whitened, are pleasingly con-
trasted by the dark thick woods on the rising grounds behind them, the boundary of view
beyond which is a distant range of lofty mountains.

From the Land of St. Thomas a bank extends more than half way over toward Crane
island. Its northern extremity is a mile and a half S.W. by W. from the south point of
the island. The bank is partly dry at low water.

The WvE Rock lies immediately above the Bank of St. Thomas. This reef is about
one quarter of a mile in length, in the direction of S.W. by W. It has only 3 feet over its
west end, and 6 fent over the east end. The west end lies with the Seminaire of St.
Joachim, a large building, with a tinned cupola and cross, on a rising ground near the
water; on the north side of the river, just shut in with the east end of iteaux Island, and
bearing N. 50° W. Its distance from the nearest shore is rather more than half a mile.

On the South Siioue, at 6^ miles above the Wye Rock, and W.N.W. from Beithier
church, lie the Belle Chasse Islets, two remarkable large rocks. They are situate three-
quarters of a mile from the shore. The ground, all the way up from St. Vallier Point to
(Quebec, is foul and unfit for anchoring.

St. Vallier Church bears from that of St. Jean, or St. John, on the Island of Orleans,
S.K. distant about three miles.

The Beaumont Refi', opposite to the point of St. Laurent, or St. Lawrence, on the
Island of Orleans, is a large rocky bank, extending more than halfway over from the
south shore. It is dry at low water, uneven, and steep-to on the north side, having 14
f\uhom<! close to it.

The TvIIDDLK CHANNEL lies between the shoals and islands wliich form the northern
side of the South Channel, and the long line of shoals and reefs, which extend from
Coudres Island to Reaux Island, at the east end of the Island of Orleans. The entrance
of the Middle TrRA verse, to the north of the Seal Islands, has not more than three fathoms
at low wattr, but having passed this shallow part, there is depth and room enough for the
largest ships, until we arrive at the Bayfield Islands, where the Middle Traverse commu-
nicates with the South Traverse by various narrow passages between the islands. There
is plenty of water at all times in most of these passages, which will be best understood by
referring to the chart, but the tides set strongly through them ; and though it would be
possible to take even the largest ships up to Quebec by the Middle Channel, were it
requisite from any cause to do so, yet they are too intricate and difficult for general
navigation.

The NOllT[I CHANNEL is a fine channel, and although not so convenient for the
purposes of navigation as the South Chaimel, which is the most generally used, still it
may be of service at limes, as it frequently remains open, or free from ice, some time after
the South Channel becomes unnavigable in the fall of the year.

The western entrance to this channel is between the reels, which extend a mile to the

\i\

• " Otr this is'and, as the law now stands, ships are oljliged to anrhor ; from wlience, aftet
examinalioii, they arc allowed to proceed to Quebec, if not detained at the quarantine anrliorngc.*"

]00

MIDDLE AND NORTH CHANNELS.

K.N.E. of ihe N.R. of Coudres Island and llie coast til Les Eboulcmeiis (land slips,) wliero
there is a large settlement. The mark to clear the shoals, on each side this pr.rt of the
channel, is Cape (Joo«e and C;ipe Martin in one.

St. Paul's 1?ay is opposite the west end of f'ondrcs Island. It is shoal and rocky,
with a great ripple at some distance ofT, aronnd Cape Coihean. Its western point is called
Cap de la f^uiV, and shoals of mud and lart;e stones extend oft' it for ihree-qnarters of a
mile, and which also extend for Hi miles to ilie south-westward at an equal distance.

After clearing the N.W, reef of Coudres Island by the before-mentioned marks, there
is a fine straight channel from 1^- to 2i miles broad, entirely free from danc;er, and ex-
lending 18 or 19 miles to the Burnt Ca])e Ledge. The do-jith does not exceed 17 fathoms,
and there is good anchorage towards the sides, out of the strength of the tides, which run
stronger and with more sea in this long and open reach than in the South Channel.

The southern side of this channel is a bank, extending, as before mentioned, from
Coudres Island t6 Uurnt Cape Ledge. Its eilge is nearly straight, and is easily followed.

The Neptune Rock is nearly 15 miles S.W. from Coudres Island, widiin the edge of
this southern shoal, and is easily recognised.

The North Shore is high, but the shoals extending three-quarters of a mile from Cap
de la Bate and Petite liivitie will be cleared by keeping the extreme western capes.
Rouge and (Jiibanne, open to the soulhward of Cape Maillard, which is 3 miles S.W. of
the church of I'etite Riviere. Abattis is a landing place, 1|: mile S.W. of Cape Maillard;
and at the Sanlt an Coc/ion, 2 miles farther S.W., the shoals, which line the shore, cease.
There is only one landing place, La Gribanne, between Abattis and Cape Tourmente, a
distance of 1 1 miles. T" the westward of the SauU an Cochon the mountainous and
uninhabited coast is quite bold, the high and precipitous capes, of various granitic rocks,
being washed by the river as far as Cape Tourmente, where the Scminaire Bank com-
mences, and the mountains trend to the N.W. away from the shore.

Burnt Cape Led(<e is nearly opposite Cape Brule on the north shore, from which it is
distant \\ mile. The S.W. end is always above water, and is 4^ miles S.W. from
the Neptune Rock.

The BruU Batih are to the westward of the former, and are joined to it by shoal water.
Their northern edge is only 600 fathoms wide and from 7 to 10 deep. The banks form
a bay on the south side, but which has no passage through to westward. This must be
taken care of, and the north shore of Capes Brule and Tourmente kept on board on
nearing them. On the N.K. point of the Brule Banks, in 3 fathoms, the west end of the
Burnt Cape Ledge is in one, with the east side of Heron Island bearing S. E.

Tiie Traverse Spit lies between the Brule Banks and the eastern point of Orleans
Island, its N.E. part forming, with the S.W. part of the Brule Banks, t!ie FMstern
Narrows of the North Traverse, which is only 250 fathoms wide, and 4 fathoms can be
carried through within this breadth. The Traverse Spit, ana the Horse Shoe Bank to the
N.W. of it, as well as the Brule Banks, dry, for the most part, soon after half-ebb, and
thereby gieatly lessen the difficulty of the passage.

The mark for leading into the Traverse through the Eastern Narrows is, the S.W, point
of Reaux Island and Point St. Vallier in one, bearing S.S.W, J \v. From the I'.aslern
Narrows the channel runs S.W. by W. close along the southern edge of the Traverse Spit,
leaving all other shoals to the southward.

At the distance of 2^- miles we come to the Western Narrows, which are also 250
fathoms wide and 44 fathoms deep. The JFcstern Narrows are between the Traverse
Spit and the Ucst Sand, which is 1 J mile long and has 7 feet least water.

The mark for leading through the Western Narrows, after having arrived as far as the
east end of the West Sand (which will be when Berihicr Church is just shut in behind the
S.W. point of Beaux Ishind, bearing S. J W.,) is Point St. John and Point Dauphine, on
the south side of Orleans Island, in one, bearing S.W. ,J W.

Having cleared the Western Narrows, there is a fine clear passage between Orleans
Island and the banks of Madame Island, not less than two-thirds of a mile wide, and with
good anchorage all the way to the South Channel at Point St. .lohn, a distance of nearly
7 miles.

The channel to the northward of the Island of Orleans has water enough for the largest
ships, but is too narrow and intricate for general use.

ips,) vvhero
pcjt of llie

and rocky,
int is culled
[iiarlers of a
stance.

Tiarks, there
;er, and cx-
17 fathoms,
1, whicli run
finel.

ioned, from
y followed.

the edge of

le from Cap
istern capes,
liles S.W. of
)e Maillard ;
shore, cease,
rourmente, a
itainous and
ranitic rocks,
! Bank com-

m which it is
I S.W. from

shoal water,
banks form
his must be
n board on
t end of the

of Orleans

the FMsteni

lioms can be

Bank to the

lalf-ebb, and

S.W. point

the Kastern

Iraverse Spit,

ire al^o 250
ihe Traverse

IS far as the

behind the
hiuphine, on

reen Orleans
le, and with
be of nearly

the largest

ISLAND OF OULEANS.

123

The XSZiAND of ORIiSANS is distinguished for its fertility. The shores,
in general, slant gradually tu the beach; in some places are a few rocky clifTs, but not of
great extent or elevation : from the foot of the slopes are large spaces of low meadow-land,
sometimes intersected by patches of excellent arable. Bordering the north channel the
beach is flat and muddy, with reefs of rocks running along it; but, on the southern side,
it is a fine sand, with only a few pointed rocks sticking up here and there. The highest
part of the island is by the church of St. Pierre, about 3 J miles from the western extremity,
and almost fronting the magnificent Tails of Montmorenci ; and also just above Patrick's
Hole, on the south side, nearly abreast of St. Pierre, on which is placed the second
telegraph of a chain between Quebec and the quarantine establishment at (Jrosse Island.
The central part is thickly wooded. The churches of St. Lawrence and St. John are
situated close down on the southern shore ; the distance between them is nearly six miles,
and this extent presents excellent cultivated lands, richly diversified with orchards and
gardens, and houses at short intervals from each other. Si. Futrick's Hole, a little to the
westward of St. Lawrence, is a safe and well-sheltered cove, where vessels outward bound
usually come to an anchor, to await their final instructions for sailing. On the west point
of it is a group of very neat houses; at several of which the inhabitants furnish accoin-
modations to the numerous persons who visit the island, from amusement, or from curiosity,
both in summer and winter.

Large quantities of grain, and most sorts of provisions, are continually sent from this
island for the consumption of (Quebec : among the fruits, apples and plums attain a much
greater degree of perfection here, than in any other place of the lower district of Canada.

Off St. Patrick's Hole, above mentioned, ships ride in 10, 12, or 14 fathoms, abreast
of the inlet. The telegraph, No. 2, is just to the eastward of this cove, on the high part of
the island. The ground is not good, but it is well sheltered from easterly winds. Here
the river is about one mile and a quarter wide, and bold on both sides.

At about half-way between St. Patrick's Hole and the west end of Orleans, is a shelf
called Mouandan's Rocks. They extend a cable's length from the island, and have only
10 feet over them.

On the S.W. part of the west eiH < "Orleans is another reef: this is dry at low water,
lies close in, and should not be ap|. \ nearer than in 10 fathoms. On the opposite

shore, a little to the eastward of Pon l. ■ is another reef, which should be passed at
the same depth. Northward of Point x^tvy is a small reef, but close in, and out of the
fair-way.

BASIN OF QUEBEC. — Tlie appearance of the lands, forming the Basin of Quebec,
is given hereafter, in the description of the river, from Montreal downward. We, therefore,
only add iiere that it is one mile across between the high-water marks, with a great depth
of water. The Harbour of Quebec, properly so called, commences at St. Patrick's
Hole, and extends thence to Cape Rouge River, which is nearly three leagues above
Quebec. The Port of Quebec comprehends all the space between Barnaby Island and
ihe first rajiid above Montreal.

The situation of Quebec, the capital of Lower Canada, is unusually grand and majestic,
in form of an amphitheatre. The city is seated on the N.W. side of the St. Lawrence,
upon a promontory, formed by that river and the St. Charles. The extremity of this
headland is called Cope Diamond, of which the highest point rises 345 feet above the
level of the water. It is composed of a rock of grey granite, mixed with quartz crystals,
(from which it obtains its name,) and a species of dark coloured slate. In many places
jt is quite perpendicular and bare; in others, where the acclivity is less abrupt, theie are
[;aiches of brownish earth, or rather a decomposition of the softer parts of the stone, on
wliich a few stunted pines and creeping shiubs are here and there seen; but the general
aspect of it is rugged ana barren." — {Bouchctlef Vol. i., 241.)

Population in 1759, about 9000.— Now about 2a,000.

The latitude of Quebec is 46° 48' 9', and its longitude we assume as 71° 13', from
the reasons assigned in the ' Memoir on the Atlantic Ocean,' 8th Edit, page 50.

Montreal.— The communication between (iuebec and Montreal, when noi impeded
by the ices, is chiefly by means of steam-vessels, which are, in general, gracefully moulded
and finely linished. The cabins are fitted up with much elegance and taste ; the tables are
liberally provided with excellent fare ; and the dessert displays the most delicious fi-Liits of
the country. Steamers start almost every day from both cities, and perform the voyage up

» .

TIDES IN THE lUVEIl ST. LAWRENCE.

the river in from 36 to 40 hours, but they are several hours less in accomplishing the trip
downward, from the advantage of having a current setting in tills direction as far as the
Richelieu, where they meet with the i'H\e.— ( BouchettCf Vol. i., 270,) For the improved
navigation, recently established, see hereafter.

Population of the city and suburbs, in 1825, 22,357 ; now not less than 25,000.

The rates of pilotage for the river, and the towing rates of steamers between Quebec
and Montreal, succeed the sailing directions in the following pages.

The laws of the Trinity-House are particularly strict, with respect to shipping in tlie
Port and Harbour of Quebec ; and every attention must be paid to them, as well as to
those respecting Quarantine. Of the latter, the pilots are bound to inform all masters,
as soon as they board them below. A copy of the Harbour-Laws is delivered to each
master, on his arrival, by the harbour-master; and those respecting shipping may always
be seen at the harbour-master's ofiice.

TIDES in the RIVER of St. LAWRENCE.

On the days of full and change, the tide flows in the river as follows: — Near Cape de
Monts, on the north side, at 1 h. 55 m. In Manicougan Bay, at 2 h. ; here spring-tides
rise 12, and neaps 8, feet. At Bersimis Point, 2 h.

On the south coast, near Cape Chatte, the time is 1 1 h. Here spring-tides rise from
12 to 14, and neaps 8, feet. Off the river Matane the time is 2 h. m.; springs rise 12,
and neaps 6, feet. At Grand Metis Bay, the time is 2 h. 10 m. ; springs rise 13, and
neaps 8, feet. Off shore hereabout, the current on tlie surface always runs downward,
from 1^ to 2 J knots.

The time of high water, at Green Island, is 3 h. ; spring-tides rise 16, and neaps 10,
feet. In the middle of the river, off the eastern part of this island, the flood from the
north shore turns to the southward and sets thence eastward off the south shore ; and thus
below the Isle Bic, the stream sets constantly downward, at the rate of 1| to '2^ knots, as
above mentioned.

At Green Island, the time is 2 h. 45 m. j at Kamourasca, 4 h. ; at the Brandy Pols, 3 h. ;
in the Traverse, 4 h. 30 m. Off Point St. Roch or Rcque, 4 h. 50 m. Here it ebba
6 J hours, and flows 5^.

At the Isle Bic the stream never bends to the westward until an hour's flood by the
shore. The neap-floods are here very weak ; and, with westerly winds, none are percep-
tible. A spring-flood is, however, always found, within four mile of the shore, between
Father Point and Bic.

The ebb-stream from the river Saguenay sets with great force southeastward toward Red
Island Bank. Off Green Island, on tiie opposite side, there is little or no flood, but a
great ripple.

All the way hence to Quebec, the tide, when regular, flows tide and quarter-tide ; but
it is influenced greatly by the wind, and by no means to be depended oti, as to its running
any where below Hare Island, where there is a regular stream of ebb and flood.

Between Barnauy and Bic the stream of flood sets in from the N.E. at the rate of
about two knots; then fair through the channel until last quarter flooc!, when it sets to
the N.VV. by the west end of Bic, and then gradually to the N.E. as the flood slacks.
The whole of the ebb, both to the eastward and westward of the islaqd, sets strongly to

the N.E.

The current between Bicquette and the north coast is generally^very strong to the N.E.,
without any regular change. In the summer and autumn, as well as in spring-tides, this
current slacks, and, near Bicquette, runs to the westward, during flood ; but, until the
upland waters have all run down, and the great rivers have discharged the freshes, caused
by the lliawing of the snows in the spring of the year, this current always runs downward.

From Bic to GiverN Island, on the southern side, the stream of flood is no where
perceptible at a mile and a half from the islands. The ebb, or rather current, comes
strongly from the N.VV., out of the River Siiguenay, [and through the channel to the
northward of Red Island, and joining the aldy-Jlood, before explained, increases the
constantly downward course of the stream. Here it always runs in a S.E, direction, two

g the trip
far as tlie
improved

n Quebec

ng in tlie
well as to
I masters,
d to each
ay always

ar Cape de
pring-tiJes

? rise from
ngs rise 12,
:ise 13, and
downward,

I neaps 10,
»d from the
i ; and thus
'2^ knots, as

r Pots, 3 h. ;
ere it ebba

ood by the
[are percep-
Ire, between

toward Red
lood, but a

|r-lide; but
its running

the rate of
In it sets to
lood slacks.

strongly to

the N.E.,

.tides, this

It, until the

|lies, caused

lownward.

Is no where

lent, comes

mel to the

ureases the

action, two

TIDEvS IX THE RIVER SI'. LAWRENCE.

125

miles an hour, with a westerly wind ; but only so to the southward and eastward of
lied Island. Between Red Island and Green Island, the ebb runs from 4 to 6J knots.
In crossing over to the north shore, this easterly current will be found to diminish ; for, on
the north side, the flood is pretty regular, and the ebb much weaker.

Eastward of the Razade Rocks, and near Bic, the eddy-flood assumes a N.E. direction,
and sets strongly between Bic and Bicquette. To the southward of Bic, spring-floods
run at the rate of a knot and a half; neaps are not perceptible. Ships that come to the
southward of Bic, with a scant wind from the northward, must steer W. by N., to check
the S.E. current, until they come into 18 fathoms of water, or up to Basque, whence they
proceed for Green Island.

The first of the flood, spring-tides sets from the N.E. along the north side of Green
Island, and strongly toward the west end of it; then S.S.W. over the reef toward Cacona.
In the middle of the channel no flood is perceptible. During spring-ebbs, the meeting of
the N.E. and S.E. tides, near the middle of Green Island, causes very strong ripplings :
and, to the eastward of Green Island, the S.E. ebb comes strongly about the east end of
Red Island; here meeting, the N.E. tide causes a high rippling, much like broken water
in strong easterly winds: but, in neap tides, the floods are very weak, and in the spring
of the year there are none. This renders the part of the river now under notice more
tedious in its navigation than any other, unless with a free wind.

From the west end of Green Island a regular stream of flood and ebb commences,
which runs five hours upward and seven downward. At the Brandy. Fots it flows tide
and nuarter-tide : and, above the Percee Rocks, on the south shore, it sets regularly up
and down, N.E. by E. and S.W. by W.

From the Brandy-Pots, the stream of flood sets toward Hare Island ; and, near the west
and N.W. with great strength, through the passage between the island and bank.

Above Hare Island, the flood sets regularly up the river. The ebbs contrarywise.

From the Pilgrims up to Cape Diable, the flood is very weak, but it thence increases
up to the buoys of the Traverse, where it runs at the rate of 6 knots. The first of the
ebb sets toward the English Bank and Hare Island Shoal, when abreast of the greater
island of Kamourasca, and the ebb contrary.

In La Prairie Bay on the north side of the Isle aux Coudres, the time of high water
is 4 h. 25 m., and here it flows six hours: the ebb-stream continues an hour and a quarter
after low water, and the flood three-quarters of an hour after high water.

The tides in the North Channel being half an hour earlier than in the Southern
Channels, the first of the flood sets strongly on the St. Roque and St. Anne's Banks ;
and the first of the ebb sets strongly across the shoals in the middle of the river. In the
Traverse, spring-tides rise 18, and neaps 11, feet.

In the South Traverse, on the full and change, the tide on-shore flows at half-past
four, but it continues to run to the westward until six o'clock, when regular in the channel.
With westerly winds there is a deviation, but it is certain that the tide on shore rises three
feet before the stream bends to the westward : and this allowance must always be made in
every part of the river.

In the Traverse, the first of the flood sets from the N.N.E.; at the buoys, at a quarter
flood, it takes a S.W. direction, and, when the shoals are covered at half-flood, at the
Seal Reefs, it sets until high water S.W. by W. The ebbs, in a contrary direction, run
with great strength ; frequently, in the spring of the year, at the rate of 6 or 7 knots.

Between the Piliers or Pillars, it is high water at 5 h, m. The ebb here runs 6 hours
and 50 minutes ; the flood, 5 hours and 25 minutes. Both streams continufe to run an
hour after high and low water by the shore.

From Crane Island the flood sets fair up the river, but the first of the ebb off L'Islet
sets to the northward for half an hour, then fair down the river, and at the rate of not
more than 3i knots in spring-tide.

At the Isle aux Reaux or Rat Isle, below Orleans Island, it is high water at 5 h. 32 m.
It ebbs by the shore seven hours, and flows five and a half. The streams tun an hour
later. Ofl" the S.W. end of Madame Island, it is high water at 5 h. 40 m.; springs rise
17, and neaps 13, feet.

126

SAILING DinECTIONS

At Quebec the time of liigl> water is G I). 37 m. Here it ebbs by tlie shore seven hours
and 10 minutes, and flows four hours and 45 minutes, llolh streams run an liour after
high and low water by the shore. Springs rise 18, and neaps 13, feet.

■ni

ijflH

1 :

! ^^^HSS

1 ^^HhM

i^HQftj

Hii

^hH

DIRECTIONS FOR SAILING UP the RIVER, from Anticosti

TO Quebec.

■ *' In working up the St. Lawrence, the south shore rr.ay be approached wilhin a mile, if
the land can be seen ; but it must be remembered that the lead is of little use until you
are past Matane lliver. On the north shore you have nothing to fear, while below Point
de Monts, if the weather will allow you to see two or three miles off. After passing
Point de Monts the intricate navigation of the river begins, and particular attention must
be paid to the current, while making the board to the northward. In thick weather the
lead will be the best guide between Matarte and Harnaby on the south shore ; hut, on
standing to the northward, we found the current setting strong to the northwestward,
particularly in the vicinity of the Manicougan and Bersimis shoals; and in one instance,
with an ebb tide, found a strong westerly set off" Point de Monts." A similar instance •
occurred to II. M.S. Race-horse, in the night of the 6th of July," 1830. At 6 p. m.
Himouski Church bore S.W. 6 or 7 miles: at 10, while in the act of tacking, she struck
on a mud bank off the entrance of Bersimis lliver, having made a N.E. J N. course by
compass 24 miles, and ought to have been 10 miles E. by S. from the river and five miles
from the nearest danger: tlie weather at the time very thick.

The fogs are generally low, and you may sometimes see the high land over them ; at
others they will clear off partially, for a few minutes, and come on again, In the latter
case a bearing on Mount Camille and judging your distance off shore, will give you
your position near enough to know how far you are up the river. When Mount Camille
bears due south by compass you are a little above Metis; and, if the weather is pretty
clear, the high land about Cape Arignole, near Bic, will be seen. It makes like a^ bold
headland, and can be seen at a considerable distance.

I make no doubt that the current down the St. Lawrence is much influenced by the
heavy rains from the number of rivers that empty themselves into it ; and if the most
particular attention be not given to the soundings, as well as the look-out that should be
kept in thick weather, a ship will be set on the south coast before the land can possibly
be seen. II. M. S. Race-horse, on the 7lb of July, 1838, ascertained her position at
4 p. m. by bearing of the lighthouse on Point de Monts and chronometer sights, both
agreeing, the weather clear and an E.S.E. wind blowing, which soon brought thick weather,
and fell very light. At 11 h. 50 m. on the following morning the north shore was dis-
tinctly seen, and for 6 or 7 miles all round to the southward no land could be seen : it
come on thick immediately, and a sight for latitude could not be obtained. The ship was
on the larboard tack, lying S.E. and going at the rate of two knots ; the water very smooth,
but the surface appeared much agitated by a current, the set of which could not be
ascertained. At 12 h. 30 m. the I'ocks were seen within a cable's length of the bows, and
had more the appearance of a field of ice than of land; the helm was put down, and the
ship fortunately came round in 25 fathoms of water. Had there been a moderate wind,
and the least swell, the ship would, in all probability, have been a wreck ; the high land
could not be seen. We had 24 fathoms under the stern, and in two casts of the hand
lead, going at the rate of two knots, had 17 fathoms, and at a cable and a half off shore
no bottom at 50 fathoms. The weather suddenly cleared off, and we saw the high land
apparently over the mast-heads. Sent a boat on shore, to ascertain our position, and
found we were off Cape Chatte. The bottom was black sand mixed with the rock.

On the weather clearing up, the barometer sunk a tenth ; by 4 p. m. it had sunk
three-tenths, the weather very clear and a light air from the eastward : at 7 it gathered
up to the northward, and we had a very heavy squall, which reduced the ship to close-
reefed topsail and reefed courses ; it lasted only about half an hour ; the barometer imme-
diately rose a tenth; the wind then became moderate, and gradually hauled to the south-
ward, %vith rain.

We were alv ays unable to make any allowance for the current, excepting the outset
of the river; but as the setting on and off the shores, at any particular time, no allowance

m houis
after

)ur

ncosTi

a mile, if
until you
ow Point
r passing
tion must
rather the
; but, on
westward,

instance,
r instance •
a G p. m.
she struck
course by

five miles

■ them ; at
the latter
. give you
int Camille
r is pretty
ike a^bold

ced by the
f the most
should be
n possibly
[position at
lights, both
:k weather,
e was dis-
le seen : it
le ship was
ry smooth,
Id not be
bows, and
n, and the
irate wind,
high land
f the hand
If off shore
high land
|sition, and
ick.

had sunk
|it gathered

to close-
leter imme-

the souih-

Ithe outset
allowance

FROM ANTICOSTI TO QUEFiEC.

127

could possibly be made. The safety of a ship much depends on the lend and a gnod
look-out.

The lowest range of the barometer on this occasion was 29.50".*

lietwecn the S.W. Point of Anticosti and the const of the district of Gaspe, the current
from the river sets continually down to the south-eastward. In the sprin'^ of the year
it is strongest; this is supposed to be owing to the vast quantity of snow vvliich thaws at
that time. In the summer, when the smaller rivers have lost their freshes, this current
is estimated at the general rate of two miles an hour; but in the spring, its rate has
amounted to three and a half; which, of course, varies according to the quantity of snow,
&c. Mr, Lambly says that there is a difference of two and three feet in the level of the
River St. Lawrence, between the months of May and August; which he imputes to the
quantity of ice and snow melted in the spring.

Those advancing toward the river, in the fairway between the S.W. Point of Anticosti
and Cape Uosier, with the wind from the North or N. by E., if ignorant of the current,
may think that they are making a reach up, when really approaching the south shore.
This is to be guarded against ; particularly during a long night, or in dark and thick
weather. It is always best to tack in time, and get out of the strength of the current,
which will be found to diminish toward the ndilh coast.

In coming up, with contrary wi>fDS, and being far enough to the westward to weather
Anticosti, stand to the northward, and keep within three or four leagues of the Innd up
to the extremity of the f!ape de Monts. Here the lighthouse, described on page 90, will
bo foutid extremely useful. The land is all bold, and the tide along it favourable. After
getting up to Trinity Cove, or the coast to the N.E. of the cape, the flood will be found
setting along the north shore.

Should circumstances render it necessary, you may proceed to, and take shelter at, the
entrance of the Haui'.our of St. Nicolas, already described, which lies W. by N.5 leagues
from Cape de Monts.

Abreast of Manicougan Shoai.s, at about two-thirds of the channel over from the
southward, a strong rippling has frequently been found ; at about two miles farther north,
another; and at two miles more a similar one : these are visible only in fine weather, and
are supposed to be caused by the slack of the eastern current, which runs down on the south
shore, and the regular flood on the north. In this part no bottom is to be found. Toward
the Points of licrsimis and Milk Vaches, the same appearances may occasionally be found,
but there is no danger; it being merely the conflict of the two streams.

In proceeding upward, with contrary winds, a ship should continue to keep over toward
the north shore, but taking especial care to avoid the Manicougan and Bersimis shoals.
Thus she will avoid the current setting strongly down the middle of the river, and have the
assistance of the flood-tide, which is not felt hereabout on die south shore.

The current is sometimes strong to the N.E. between Bicquette and Mille Vaches.

If a ship has advanced up, on the north side, to Bersimis Point, with the wind at west,
and a flood-tide, she may cross over to Ealher Point, and obtain a pilot. Should the wind
change to S.W. by W., keep the north land on board, until sure of fetching the point.

With a FAIR WIND, and under favourable circumstances, a ship proceeding upward, on
the SOUTH side of the river, may find soundings, but very irregular, along the coast to
Matane ; the shore is, in general, sleep. No anchoring in any part : the depth 20,30, and
50, fathoms, at one mile from the rock, and all hard ground ; in from 60 to 80 fathoms, the
bottom is of clean sand.f

• Communicated by Mr. JelFery, M.R.N.

+ In the year 1817, Mr. Wm. Hain, a master in the Royal Navy, published an into csting volume,
entitled, " An Essay on Ihc I'nriation of the dmipass ; shnidiii: how far it is iiijlii, need bi/ a rhanfro
in the direction of the Ship's Head; tdlh an e.^ position of the danifets arising; to narii^alors from not
allowiriii for this change of viiriatimi."^^ In this work, Mr. Ikiiii l»;is noticed the IVeiiuent and re-
markable aberration ot the compass in ships, when approaching the vicinity of Cape Ciiattc. He says,
" In the River of St. Lawrence, the change in the variation should be most particularly attended
to ; as it leads a ship, both in going up and coming down, on the coast most to be avoided.

" On coming down that magnificent river, May, 1S13, I found that it was necessary to steer
a very different course from the opposite one made use of in going up, under veiy similar ciicum-

1^8

SAILING DIRECTIONS

From Cape CitATTE to Matane, the course and distance are W. i S. 10 J leagues. VVlicn
at 4 miles to the norlh-eastvvard of Mjitane, you will see the Paps hearing S.W. J W. : they
stand inland to the westward of the river, as -'ready noticed, and this is tlie best bearing on
wl-.ich they can be seen. Mount Camille wid now come in sight to the W.S.W. and may
be seen in this direction 13 lenr^ues off. It lience appears to the norlliward of all the land
on the south side, and in the form of a circular island.

Twenty-three miles W. } S. of Matane River is Little Metis Cove, described on
page 113. If requisite to anchor here, give the east end of the reef a berth of 100 yards,
or cross it in three fathoms : then haul up into the middle of the cove, and let go.

Grand Metis, described on page 1 14, is 5] miles W. \ S. from Little Meiis. The hank
of soundings extends farther to the northward of these coves than off Matane, and 35 fathoms,
with sand, may be found at four miles from shore ; but, beyond this, the depths speedily
increase to 60 and 70 fathoms. The edge of the bank continues steep as high up as Green
Island. Along shore, within 10 fathoms, the ground is hard, and it is difficult for a boat to
land, unless in fine weather. From Giand Metis to Cock Cove, as already shown, page 114,
the land trends W. by S. 10 miles. Inline weather, ships may stop tide between, in 15 fathoms.

Father Poikt, or Point av\ Pkres, has been already described, as well as llarnaby
Island, which lies to the westward of it, (see page 1 14.) Small vessels, seeking shelter from
westerly winds, may find a depdi of 3 fathoms, under the reef extending from the east end
of this island in Rimousky Road. Upon this reef is a large round stone, which serves as a
mark. To enter, cross the tail of the reef in 4 fathoms, and then haul to the southward ;
and, when the island bears W. by N., with the large stone N.W. by W., anchor at a quarter
uf a mile From the island.

From Barnaby Island, the Isle Bic bears west, 10 miles ; Bicquelle W. by N. 11^ miles ;
and Cape Orignal W.S.W. f W. 3J leagues. Cape Orignal and the east end of Cic lie
North and South from each other, distant 2j miles. The Cape bears from Bic Old
Harbour nearly W^est, about 2i miles. From the cape a reef extends East one mile.
The eastern part of this reef and the western point of the harbour, in a line, bear E.S.Fi.
one mile.

stances, a few days before. I noted the circumstance in my remark-book, sent to the Lords of the
Admiralty, or returning to England ; and, owing to that circumstance, and not having a copy nor
log-book to refer to, I cannot state from memory the courses steered, though I remember the dif-
ference to have exceeded one point, and that we had an eigiit and nine knot breeze, both in going
up and coming down, with the weather uncommonly fine, and every circumstance extremely favour-
able for making such remarks.

" Subsequent to the above period, one of our ships of war (the Zealous) had a very narrow escape
in going up that river. The compasses in the binnacle were so much affected by local attractions,
that, had the fog not cleared away at the moment it did, the ship must have run on shore, not far
from Cape Chatte ; she was in 19 fathoms.

" The gentleman from whom I had this information could assign no other cause why the com-
passes were so influenced, except from the muskets placed around the mizcn-mast ; but, on inquiry,
I found that they had been there during the former part cf the voyage ; and, consequently, this
could not have been the primary cause, as the deviation must have been sooner perceived. I am,
therefore, inclined to attribute the near approximation of the land as being the primary, and the
local attraction of the ship as the secondary, cause, acting on the magnetic needle with a compound
force. All the compasses in the ship, when brought on deck, were alike affected.

" I have great reason to believe that, the non-attendance to the changes of variation in the River
St. Lawrence, and perhaps in the vicinity, is one of the causes of the many losses that happen there.

" Before quilting this subject, I may, perhaps, be permitted to notice an effect produced by the
change of variation, but hitherto ascribed to very different causes ; and there is not an offlcer, I
will venture to say, in the British navy, but will bear testimony to the truth of the following state-
ment : —

" When beating to windward, and obliged to tack pretty often, say in chace of an enemy, or en-
deavouring to gain a port, all seamen have remarked that, every time the ship was put about, the
wind came round some points with the ship ; so that, for instance, if the wind was at South, and
lying W.S.W. on one tack, the ship would lie only E. by S., or East on the other tack. At other
limes, we have been well pleased, under similar circumstances, to find the wind favour the ship a
point or two in every tack ; so that, if the wind was at North, and the ship lying W.N.W. before
tacking, she would lie N.E. by E., and N.E. upon the other tack. It is not a change in the wind
which produces these apparent differences, but it is wholly to be ascribed to the local attraction in
the ship. When the head is westerly, the north end of the needle is drawn half this dittereuce
westward; when the head is easterly, it is drawn half the difference eastward." — {Page 89.)

Mr. W. Forbes, in H.M.S. Vestal, June 1838, experienced the same phenomenon; the deviation
the^ compass being from 14 to 1| points increase upon the amount of westerly variation allowed.
— See Nautical Magazine, June 1843, p. 428.

.„_™.,.<r'

VVl.cn

V. ; lliey

laring on

and inay

Ihe land

■ribed on

00 yards,

The bank
i fatlioms,

1 speedily
as Green

r a boat to
page 114,
5 fatlioms.

s liarnaby
lelter from
le east end
serves as a
oulhwaril ;
t a quarter

1 1 ^ miles ;

of Bic lie
n Bic Old
: one mile,
jear E.S.E.

JLorcls of the
Ig a copy nor
Inber the dif-
loth in going
|mely favour-

irrow escape

attractions,

liore, not far

[hy the com-
on inquiry,
liuentiy, this
Ived. 1 at"»
[ry, and the
la compound

|in the River

ippen there.

iced by the

an officer, I

wing state-

lemy, or en-
It about, tlie
"south, and
At other
tl>e ship a

<i.\V. before
lin the wind
Attraction in

Is ditference

fc89.)

Ire deviation

Ion allowed.

FUOM ANTICOSTI TO tjl l-BKC.

1 :)

Sot'NDiNOs, Sic. between Cock Cove and Bic Island. — From Father I'oiiit, tlio bank
extends northward five miles. At that distance from land are 35 fathoms of water, with
sand and mud. llenco, westward, all the way to within one mile of Bicquetto, the sound-
ings are very reijular. Ships may therefore stand to the southward by the lead, and lack
at pleasure. Tlicy may, also, stop tide any where in this extent, in 9 or 10 fathoms,
good ground.

If a ship arrives off Father Point, during an easterly wind and clear weather, wfjcn no
pilots are to be obtained, she may safely proceed along the land in 10 fathoms of water.*
On approaching the Isle Bic, the reef extending from the S.F. of that island will be seen:
give this a berth, and continue onward through the middle of the channel bet\..en the
island and Cape Orignal. With the body of the island N. K. you may come to an anchor,
in 8 or 9 fathoms, clean ground, and wait for a pilot. There is a spot on the island cleared
from trees : when this spot bears N.R., from a depth of 1 1 or 1'2 fathoms, you will be in a
good berth. The ground is hard toward the island.

A ship off Father Point, during thick weatiiek, and an easterly wind, without a pilot,
may stand to the southward by the lead, and tack by sounding. In this case observe that,
when in 10 fathoms, Bic will bear due west.

To BEAT up from Father Point to Bic Island, you may make free with the south shore ;
as, by nearing it, the flood tide will be most in your fiivour. The depth of 7 fathoms is a
good fair-way, and you may anchor in that depth all the way up to the island. When
beating in, to the southward of Bic, from the eastward, stand to the southward into 7
fathoms while to the eastward of the island, but approach '^o nearer to the S.Ii. reef than
fathoms. In the middle are 12 fathoms. In standing to the northward, toward Bio,
tack in 10 fathoms all along the island, and when it bears N.E. anchor as above.f

The GENERAL COURSES, &c. between Cape Chatte and

Isle Bic, are as follow :

A ship bound upward, and having arrived within three leagues to the N.E. of Cape
Chatte, should steer W. by S. or according to the wind, allowing for current to S.E., as
already shown. Ilunning thus, for 24 leagues, will bring you to Father Point. Should
the weather be thick, you may haul to the southward ; and if, after gaining soundings in
from 30 to 25 fathoms, the water should suddenly shoalcn to 20 and 1.3, you will not bo
up to the point, but may safely run four or five miles higher : with soundings, and the water
gradually shoaling from 30 to 25, 18, ^c. in three or four miles, you will be up with the
point, and may make signal for a pilot, approaching no nearer than in 12 fathoms. Here
you will be about one mile and a half from shore ; and will, if the weather be clear, see
the houses. Tiie shore is bold-to, and may be approached with safety. From Father
Point to the Isle Bic, the bearing and distance are W. \ S. 16 miles.

While advancing from the eastward toward Father Point, and being off Little Meti<, the
high land to the southward of Cape Arignole. or Orignal, may be seen before the cape
itself or Isle Bic come in sight. From off Mount Camille, in clear weather, Bic may be
clearly seen. To avoid mistaking Barnaby Isle for that of Bic, observe that, in thick
weather, a ship cannot approach the land, near Father Point, without gradually shoaling
the water ; consequently if, while keeping the lead going, you come into 9 fathoms, and
make an island suddenly, it must be Barnaby ; or, if falling in with an island on any
bearing to the westward of W.S.W., one cast of the lead will be sufficient to ascertain which
it is ; for, with Barnaby from W.S.W. to west, you will have from 7 to 5 fathoms only ;
but with Bic on the same bearings are from 15 to 12 fathoms.

• The pilots repair to their rendezvous in April. On their boats and sails are their respective
numbers. The proper rendezvous is at Father Point; but they are often met with at Matane and
Cape Chatte, and sometimes lower down.

f A family (that of Madame Petit) is settled at S.S.W. from Bic, in a small cove at the bottom
of a hill 1236 feet in height. Here, and on Bic Island, water may be had. The next parish, west-
ward, is Trois Pistoles, and at this place provisions may be obtained. Between these places are no
houses or settlements, but from the latter to Quebec are regular stages. Passengers wisiiing to
quit the ship at Bic, in order to proceed by land, by going to Madame Petit's house, may find a
•niide to take t em through the wood to Trois Pistoles, or niav take a boat ui) to the latter. (1818.

130

SAILING DIllECTIONS FOR

If, with the load kept goinu, iiiul no soi)ndii)<^'s ho found, you suddenly full in with an
island to the soudtward, it must be Hicquotte. Widi t^iis island S.W., half a mile, there
are 10 fathoms of water. At two miles cast from it are 10 fathoms, and a shi|) advancing'
into this depth, from the deeper water, may either haul off to the nordiward, and wait for
clear weather, or proceed, hy soundin'^ around the reef from the east end of iiic; steer
thence west two miles, and come to an anchor, within the island, in 12 or 1 1 fathoms. At
4 miles north of Bicquettc are 50 fathoms of water.

W'idi an lASTEHi.Y wind, if requisite to anchor on the south side of flic, to proceed from
windward, run boldly to the southward, ind look out for the reef oMendini; from the cast
end of the island ; the latter may be seen, being always above water, (iivo the reef a
berth of a quarter of a mile, and run alonp, in mid-ch;uuiel, until Cape Orignal hpars
b.S.K., the body of the island ihen bearing N.N.W. In 10 or 11 fathoms is a lai^e ship's
berth, the ground clear and good. Small vessels may run up, until the island bears N.l-",.
in 9 fathoms, at about a quarter of a mile from the island, hut here the urotind i-< not so
clear as in the dee|)er water. Fresh water is obtainable in the cove just to the v. eslward <-»
the east end of the island.

If, during a WEvrF-ULY wind, a ship sliould be to the windward of the island, and it he
required to bear up, in order to anchor, stand to the southward into 1 1 fathoms; then run
down and anchor, as above directed ; but particularly noticing that, with little wind, 10
fathoms is the proper depth of the fair-way, and that the lust quarter-fiood, and all the ebb,
sets strongly between IJicquetto and Bic.

Should you, with the wind easterii/, be too far to the westward to fetch round the east
end of IJic, in order to gain the anchorage, give liicquette a berth of half a mile, then rur>
up until the west end of Iiic beais S.E., when Cape Orignal will he open of it. The latter
mark leads to the westward of a reef that covers at a quarter tide, and extends W.S.W .
one mile from liicquette. Another reef, always in sight, lies between the former and
Bicquetlc. By hauling round to the southward, with Cape Orignal open, you will pass
athwart the opening between Bic and Bicquette, in from 16 to 12, 10, and 9 fathomsj; the
water thence shoalens into 6 fathoms, on the spit of mud and sand lying S.W. by \V. from
Bic, one mile. After crossing this spit, you will deepen into 9 and 10 fathoms, when the
passage will be open, and you may come to an anchor.

The N.W. ledge of Bic, the west end of that isle, and Cape Orignal, are nearly in a line
when bearing S.E. When beating into Bic, from the westward, while standing to the
southward, do not shut Mount Camille with Cape'Orignal; in standing to the northward,
do not shut Mount Camille with the Isle Bic.

Bank of Soundings — In the offing, between Barnaby and Bic, are regular soundings,
decreasing from 35 to 30 fathoms, generally of clean ground. Ships may, theiefore, anchor
in any depth, but no nearer than a mile and a half, with Bic bearing from W.S.VV. to S.W.,
as otherwise, the channel on the south of that island will not be open ; and, with a sudden
shift of wind, you may not be able to clear the island.

At N.W. from the eastern extremity of the S.E. reef of Bic, and just to the southward of
the stream of Bicquette, is the N.E. reef, a dangerous ledge, seen at low-water, spring-
tides only. To avoid it, give Bic the berth of a mile. Westward of Bic the edge of the
Bank of Soundings trends to the S.W.-ward up to Basque Isle, and ships may therefore
stand safely to the southward by the lead, 12 fathoms being the fair-way.

ISLE BIC TO GREEN ISLAND.— From the Isle Bic, Green Island bears S.W.
by W. J W. 9| leagues : and the course will therefore be from W.S.W. to S.W. according
to the distance northward from Bic, &c. In this course and distance, you pass the Alcides
Rock, the Razades, Basque, and Apple Island, which have been described in page 115.
From the rocks of Apple Island to the eastern reef of Green Island, the bearing and
distance are W. by S.'2 miles. This reef extends nearly a mile from the trees on the east
end of Green Island, and is always uncovered. The small channel on the south side of
Green Island is nearly dry at low water.

The edge of the bank is steep to the northward of the Razades, &c. ; but from 35
fathoms, inward, there are gradual soundings. Between Bic and Green Island there is
anchorage all die way in 14 fathoms ; and for small vessels, in fine weather, in 9 fathoms.
If up to the east end of Green Island, and the tide be done, you may anchor in 10 fathoms,
off the reef, and in the stream of the ledge extending N.E. by N. from the lighthouse point,
at the distance of a mile from the extremity of that shoal.

in with nn

inilo, llien;

) iidvanciii'tr

ind wait for

Hie; steer

tl)oms. At

rocecd from
lOiu tiif cast
; tlic reef -.x
ritual lipars
I \;wj.e sliip's
I hVATS N.l',.
1(1 i-i not so
veslwnitl ct

id, and it be
lis; llien run
tie wind, 10
I nil the ebb,

Dund the east
lile, then run
t. The latter
Mids W.S.W.
J former and
pu will pass
fathoms); the
^ by W . from
ms, when the

uly in a line
idincc to the
northward,

ar soundings,
efore, anchor
W.toS.W.,
ith a sudden

?outbward of
rater, spring-
edge of the
nay therefore

bears S.W.
W. according
s the Alcides
in page 115.
I bearing and
s on the east
south side of

I but from 35
jland there is
In 9 fathoms.
|) 10 fathoms,
llhouse point,

Tin: invi-.;i ok st. i.awkencf, upvaud. 131

Ik'lween Kic and nas(|iio the ground i» all clean; but tlipnce to (Jrecn l>land it is foul.
A small vessel may find shelter under the cast end of Basque, in 2* fathoms ,»t low water,
>.'iving the east end of the rref extending from tlial island the berth of a qnartorof a mile.
The anchorage is widi the i>land bearing VV. by S.

The r.KiHiHoi'SK and reefs about (Jrecn Ishiml have been already dcscribrd in page 115.
The lighthouse bearing S.W. by \V. leads safely up to Crecn I>Iand. The hi'j;li land to the
southw.ird of (^ape Origiial kept open to the northward of H.iscpie Island, bids clear of the
lighthouse Ifdgo. With the lighthouse bearing S.W. by S., this ledge will be exactly between
the ship and ligiithouse.

Iletween lh(> lighthouse and the west end of (Jreen Island, in fmo wcailirr, you may
slop tide in iO or 25 fathom^, close to the north side of the island : but, if the wind be
fresh, the ground will be found to be bad for holding, and too near the shore. During
N.E. winds, small vessels may anchor between the S.W. reef and C'acona, in 4 fathoms;
but it will be better to bear up for the Urandy Pols, lest they be caught by adverse
weadier, &c.

l<r,n IsLANu bears from the lighthouse of (irecn Island N.W. by W, J W. nearly 5, J
mil . The eastern extremity of its extensive reef bears from the liabthouse nearly
N.W. I y N., and is cleared by the lighthouse and beacon on CJrecn Inland in one, bearing
S.S.E. .} E. When coming up in the night, the light should not, therefore, be brought to
the eastward of S. by K., until you are certainly within five miles i,f it. If, with the light
bearing S. by l^. you cannot make free to enter^the Narrows, wait for dayliglit ; and, should
the wind be scant from N.W., you may then borrow on the south side of Red Island, but
so as to have White Island open twice its own breadth fiom the north side of Hare Island.
On drawing to the westward, you may approach the shoal of While Island by the lead,
remembering that the ebb-tide j-ets strongly down between While Island t^hoal and Red
Island, and the flood in 'he contrary direction. A vessel may anchor, in fine weather,
on the south side of Red Island Reef, in 12 fathoms, at tlie dis>tance of about three-
quarters of a mile. The tide hereabout, as already shown, sets in all directions.

The souNniNOs between Green Island and Red Island are very irregular. At a mile
from eacli are nearly :jO fiithoms of water. The water of this channel, during ebb-tide,
with an easterly wind, appears broken, but there is no danger.

The NORTH COAST.— The Point de Milic Vaches bears from Ricquette N. by W.
J' leagues. The extensive shoal, which surrounds this point, commences off the river of
Port JSieuf, on the east. The southern extremity of the shoal is a mile from shore, and
is very steep-to. Tlie greater part of the shoal is dry at low water. Above the point
the land forms the Hai/ of Mille I'achrx, which is shoal, and full of rocks. At 1 1 miles
S.W. by W. from Point JNIille Vaches, are two islets, called tlie Esquemin hlea. In the
Bay, at 4 miles west from the |)oint, is a small river, called SauU nn Mouton, having a
handsome fall of 80 feet, near the mouth of it, which may be always seen when passing.
Between the Es(iuemin Isles and Saguenay River, a distance of 7.^ leagues, S.W. by W'.,
are three small rocky inlets, named Bondcsir and Les Htrgeionnex, which afford shelter
to fishing-boats.

In proceeding for the Saguenay River, should the weather be thick, it would bo
advisable to drop anchor at the Brandy Pots, until the weather becomes favourable, when
the entrance can be easily effected with a leading wind. The lea<ling marks are good,
and the entrance a mile wide between the shoals. The Bull is a round mountain on the
north side of the Saguenay, about .3 miles up, and by keeping the Bull open from the
points, there is no danger in running in ; and when abreast of the port or houses at
Tadousac, they may run up on whatever side they think they have most advantage, but
with ebb-tide there is less current on the north-east side of the river.

Other directions have been given in the description of the river on p. 1 13, and it may
be added here that there are good anchorages at the Anse St. Etienne, 10 miles above
Tadousac, at St. Louis Island, 15 miles from Tadousac, at the Anse St. .lean 22 miles,
and at the Bale de TEternite, 28 miles above Tadousac, at all of which vessels might lie
well to load ; in other parts of the river the depth is f.ir too great to anchor.

Ships working up on the north side, between the Esquemin Isles and Red Island,
should keep within two leagues of tlio north land : the shore is clear and bold, and the
Hood pretty regular.

SJwtitd a s/iip, (o the nnitlnvmd of Red Island, be caught by a sudden .'■hilt <>f easterly

IJ'i

sAii.i\(; DrHKcrroNs rou

iii

vviiicl, HO tli;tt she cannot fetcli round tlie cast end of l{i-<l Island Ueef, she may saffly
Ix'ur nil iirui run tu tlif ^v(>^t^var(l, (^ivini; lied Island, White Island, and Ilarr Islaml, un
the larbouid side, a berth of twu nnles ui jvissinir. At three leagues above Hare Island,
h;iul to the sontlnvard, and enter the Sonlh ('hannel toward Kamourasea; whence proceed
as hereafter directed.

(JIIKI'.N ISLAND TO TUK BTIANDY I'OTS.-The I'erc.'e Hocks, Harrott LedHe,
White Island, and the Mrandy I'ots, have already been described. See nage 117. I'rorn
(Jreen Island lo the Brandy Pots, tlu! course and distance are from S.W. \ W. to S.W.
by W. <l leajjues. To sail to the northward of Barrett Ledge, bring the southerrnnost
mountain of Kamourasea in a line with the saddle of the (Jreat Pilgrim, or an islet lying
o(f the N.l'.. side of (Jreen Island, touching the high land of (,'apc Arignole. I'ilher of
these marks will clear the Ledge.

In advancing toward the White Island Keef, you may trust to the lead : seven fulhoms
is near enough lo tack or anchor in, and this depth is in the fair-way to the Brandy I'uts.
The Brandy I'ots are steep on the south side, 10 fathoms being near to ihcm.

There is good anchorage to the eastward of the Brandy Pots, in from 9 to 7 fathoms,
and good anchorage above them, in from 9 lo 14 fathoms. This is the best roadstead of
any part of the river, durit)g easterly winds, excepting that of Crane Island, and is the
usual rendezvous for vessels bound down the St. Lawrence, and waiting for a wind.

There is a good passage to the soudiward of Barrett Ledge up to the Pilgrims, leaving
the Middle Shoal, which is above Barrett Ledge, on the starboard hand. The north
passage is, however, the best, and most used.

BRANDY POTS ro Tur, SOUTH TIIAVERS15 and GOOSE ISLAND.— For the

Hal on the south side of Hare Island, above the Brandy Pots, see page 117. This flat is
bo!d-to, there being 7 fathoms close to it, nearly up to the west end ; and the whole of
this side of the island is bound by rocks.

The lower end of the Middle Bank, as already noticed, fpage 117,) bears S.K. i E.
about a mile and a half from the Brandy Pots. Between the Middle Ground and Hare
Island are 1.") and 16 to '20 fathoms of water. On the south side of the Middle Ground,
there are 8 and 9 fathoms ; at half tide, in this part of the river, a large ship may safely
beat up or down.

In proceeding to the westward from the Brandy Pots, there is a 3-fathom rocky patch,
and ihe knoll, at the west end of Hare Island Bank, to be avoided, the rocky patch being
two-thirds of a mile eastward of the knoll, which is lo the S.E. of the western end of Hare
Island ; between them there is 3^ and 4 fathoms. The marks and bearings of these have
been described, (page 1 17.) The Middle Bank, which extends between the Middle Shoal
and Hare Island Bank, has 3^ and 4 fathoms on it, and consequently this draught may be
carried over it, but if a greater depth than 3 or 3J fathoms is wanted, White Island must
be brought open to the eastward of ihe Brandy Pots. When White Island is brought to
the westward of the Brandy Pots, or midway between them and Hare Island, the mark is
directly on the 3-falhom patch, before described.

In standing to the southward from Hare Island, above the Brandy Pots, you will find
18 and 20 fathoms of water. On the north side of the Middle Bank, 4 fathoms; but
there are 8 and 9 fathoms on the south side of this bank, with gradual soundings to the
soulh shore. Five fathoms is a good depth to tack in. Abreast of the middle of Hare
Island the depths are nearly the same.

The direct course from the Pilgrims to the Chequered Buoy on the south side of the
Traverse is S.W. by W., the distance about 7 i leagues. The South Traverse and coast
between have been fully described. (See page 119.) The bank between the Pilgrims
and Kainourasca Isles is sleep-to. The mark for tacking here is not to shut the S.W.
land with the great Island of Kamourasea — in standing to the northward, you will gain
the depth of 'JO fathoms.

KAMOURASCA. — From the west end of Crow Island, the third of the Kamourasea
Isles, as described on page 118, the church bears S.E. nearly a mile. Between is a place
on which ships may safely be run on shore. To get in, bring the church to bear E.S.E.,
or some distance to the westward of Crow Island, and run for it. In passing in, you will
carry 14 feet in common spring-tides, and 10 feet with neaps. The bottom is of soft mud.

Cape Diabll bears from Crow Island S.W. h W. about three njilcs, and a reef extend;-

iv sul'ely
iliind, XII
e i-^huui,
; proceed

It LpiIup,
7. From
. to S.NV.
ithcrninost
islet lying
I'ither of

!M fathoms
vndy I'ots.

7 futlioms,
radsleiid of
and is the
ind.

ms, leaving
The noith

).— For the

This flat is

lie whole of

ts S.K. 4 E.
id and Hare
die Ground,
may safely

rocky patch,
patch being
lend of Hare
if these have
iliddle Shoal
ight may be
Island must
,s brought to
the mark is

L'ou will find
kthoms; but
llings to the
Idle of Hare

side of the
ke and coast
[he Pilgrims
lut the S.VV.
|ou will gain

iKamourasca

in is a place

jear E.S.E.,

in, you will

|of soft mud.

reef extendi-

TIIK IIIVF.U or ST, LAWUtNCK, tPU'AUl).

\'3'3

from the capo as already explained, the easternmost part of which is not more than a mile
and a half from Crow hland. Sliips from the westward, therefore, in ordtT to get in,
should run down along the reef in (i fathoms, and haul in for the church, as above.

With easterly winds, the large cove on the S.E. of Cape Diablo is a fine place for a
vessel to run into, should she have lost her anchors. To enter, bring the church and ( 'row
Island in llu; line of direction given above. Having arrived within the reefs, run up to the
westward, leaving an islet tliut lies above the church on the left side ; then put the ship on
shore in the S.W. part of the cove, and she will be safe. Should the wind be westerly,
put her on shore a little to the eastward of the church.

SOUTH TllAVKUSr,.— From Cape Diable to the Soi-th Thavkkse, the course, if at
three miles from the cape, will be S.VV. by W. In j)roceeding, keep the norllierninost
part of the high hnd of Kamourasca in a line with the low point of St. Denis : this mark
will lead to the Li;;ht-vessel and the black buoy ofl' the point of St. Rotpie, and the while
buoy upon the Middle (iround on the opposite side. When St. Ilociue church bears
S.K. by S., the roadway beyond the church will be in a line with it, and you will be up
to the buoys. From this spot run one half or quarter of a mile above the buoys on a
S.VV. course.

From the spot last mentioned, the direct course upward along the edge of St. Ro(|ue's
Hank will be S.W. i S. 4 miles, and S.W. by S. two miles; but considerable allowance
must be made for tide, whether ebb or flood. These courses lead up to abrorist of the red
buoy, lying on the bank at 4i miles W.S.W. { W. from the i'oint of St. Koqov>. The
depths on the courses prescribed are 8, 7, and G, fathoms, varying to 11 and aga ;i to ;i
and G fathoms.

On proceeding hence upward, with the Stone Pillar in sight, bearing S.W., you wil!
keep in the best water, but southwestward of the red buoy are several detached 2', and
3-fathom shoals, one of which the Channel Patch, is in the fairway : the bearings and
marks are described on page 120. It may be passed to the northward or southward, until
you have the Stone Pillar at the distance of two miles, where the depths at low water are
5 and (i fathoms : from this place you bear up, on a south course, into die southern part of
the Traverse ; and thence, not forgetting the Avignon or Siml/t Ilock, the course will be
S.W. J W. until past the Stone Pillar and Goose Island Reef, which you keep on board
upon the starboard side.

If running from ofl" ('ape Diable for the Traverse, during the night or in a fog, strike
the bank ofl that cape in 7 or 8 fathoms, and steer about W.S.W. Ry keeping that
water, it will lead to the light-vessel. On passing the point of St. Roque Sand, the water
will suddenly be found to deepen, whence you must haul to the southward, keeping the
south side on board, and proceeding as above.

If entering the Traverse with little ivind, be careful to allow for the first of the flood, as
it sets stiongly toward the point of St. Roque Bank. On going through, if more than
half-flood, allow for a set to S.W. by W., and be sure always to keep the south bank on
board. Above the Piliers, or Pillars, the tide sets fair up the river.

In beating into and through this passage, be careful and tack from each '"^fo on the
first shoal-cast of the lead : but most so to the northward, on the edge of '!.• Middle
Ground. Ten fathoms is near enough to the bank ; and it is to be remembe;ed, that
the ship will always go farther over toward the Middle Bank than to the point of St.
Roque Shoal.

Anchorage. — Between the Rrandy Pots and Traverse, there is anc' urage all along
the English Bank, and upon the edge of the flat on the south side, >e;.vt'en the Pilgrims
and the greater Kamourasca Isle, in 9 fathoms : under the Pilgrims, in 3 fathoms; ofl" Cape
Diable, in 10 fathoms ; and thence, along the flat, up to the buoys.

Should the flood be done, when a ship is in the Narrows, or between the'buoys, or if any
occurrence render it necessary to anchor thereabout, instead of coming-to in the channel,
run below either buoy, and come-to there, in 7 fathoms, on either side. The tides will be
found much easier after half-ebb below the buoys than between them. In the deep water
the tides here run very strong. Should the wind be inclinable to the southward, anchor to
the southward of llie stream of the black buoy, in 7 fathoms. Should a ship be a mile
above the buoys, under similar circumstances, she should anchor on the edge of the South
Rank, in 7 fathoms, with a i^ood scope of cable before the tide comes strong ; for, if the

■1

134

SAILING DIltECTIONS I Oil

anchor once start:-), you may liave to cut from it, as it seldom takes hold again, llu; ground
hereabout heini' foni and uitit for hohlincr.

Near the Pillars the tides are much easier than below; at and above them, scttinjf at tiio
rate of not more ihan 3 J miles an hour.

Ships bound down, wiili easterly winds, may anchor at two mile' to the north-eastward
of the South Pillar, in 7 fathoms; or, to the southward of it, in the same depth, with good
ground.

STONE PILLAR, or Pii.iF.n nr. Prr.RRE, to Crane Isr and. — From abreast of the
Stone Pillar, or of the Avipnon Hock, the direct course and distance to Crane Island, are
S.W. i W. 4 leagues. On this course you pass (toose Island, and arrive at the Heaujeu
Bank, the channel to (he south of which is that generally used ; the depth in it is irre;rular,
varying from 5 to 3 fathoms; and there are two rocky patches of 2i fathoms in the nay,
and difticult to avoid. The marks for passin(jf the southern edije of the llcatijeu Bank,
along the eastern half of its lenu;th, are, the Stone Pillar, its own breadth open to the south-
ward of Goose Island Reef; and for die western part of the bank, which turns up slightly
to the northward towards Crane Island, Point St. Vallicr in one with the south side of
Crane Island.

The soutii side of the channel is a muddy flat, of 3 and 2 fathoms, with regidar soundings
toward it. There is good anchorage all the way up to Crane Island. Stand no nearer
toward (ioose Island Reef than 10 fathoms ; but above it you may stand toward the island
to 7 fathoms. (See page 1'20.)

When up to the body of Crane Island, you may approach safely, as it is bold and r-,
with 7 fathoms close to the rocks.

Anchorage. — From off the Pillars to Crane Island, there is all the way, good and clean
ground. There is, also, a good road off the body of Crane Island, in 8 faihoms. The best
road in the river, during easterly winds, is at a mile to the westward of Crane Island : and
ships bound downward, if at the Pillars, and caught by strong easterly winds, had better
run back to this place, than ride belovv, and risk the loss of anchors.

CRANE ISLAND to POINT ST. VALLIER The direct course and distance from

Crane Island to Point St. Vallier, is from W. by S. to W.S.W. four leagues. Between
are the mud bank of St. Thomas, the Wye Rocks, the Bclle-Chassc Islets, and the bank
of Crosse Island. For description, see page 121.

The Bank of St. Thomas is above two miles broad, and is dry at low water, nearly to its
northern edge, which is very steep, and the marks for clearing it are Belle-Chasse Island
and I'oint St. Vallier touching.

When St. Thomas's Church bears S.E. i E. you will be abreast the point of the bank
called Margaret's Tail, having a red buoy, and may thence steer directly up, W.S.W. The
mark for the southern edge of Margaret's Tail Bank is, the S. side of Haystack Island and
Crane Island Church in one, bearing E.N.E.

To avoid the Wye Rocks, never stand to the southward of six fixthoms in the night : and
by day, observe tint the long mark is to keep Belle-Chasse Islets just open to the southward
of Poirit St. Vallier. They are out of vessels, with a fair wind, and the cross mark for them
is the Seminaire on the north shore in one with the ]•). point of Reaux Island, and Crow
Island just open to the westward of Middle Island.

To the west of Margaret's Tail, is a narrow rocky shoal called Grosse Patch, widi
7 feet least water; between this shoal and .Margaret's Tail is a chaimel 270 fathoms wide,
and 5 fathoms deep, leading to the Quarantine I'stablishment on tho southern side of Grosse
Island. I'or the guidanco of the numerous vessels \s\uc\\ slop th.ero, a red buoy has been
|)Iaced on tiie S.W. end of Margaret's Tail, as before mcnlioiu'd, and also a white buoy on
the N.K. end of Grosse Patch ; but in the .il)scnce of buoys, the east points of Grosse Island
and the Brothers in one, bearing N. by E., will lead through. There is a passage to the
west of (Jrosse Patch, between it and the island, but care must be taken to avoid a small
rock, with 7 feet least water, lying 180 fathoms off Grosse Island, and on which a black
buoy has been placed.

\\'lion above Margaret Island, stand no farther to the northward tlyin into (> fathoms.
Reaux or Rat Islnid and Madame are tlat to the southward; 7 lathnms will be near
rnou'.di to lidih, Tlic bouth side of the channel, \ip to Bollo-Chassc, is all bold ; 8 fadioms

Il(! glOUIul

ling at tiio

j-enstwan!
with good

^ist of tlie
[sland, are
le Heaujeu
s irrejrular,
in the way,
njoi Bank,
1 the south -
\ip shtjlitly
nth side of

r soundings
(I no nearer
1 the island

d and r,

)d and clean
I. Tlie best
Ishxnd : and
, had belter

istance from
Between
ind tlie banlt

nearly to its
]ia<se Island

lof the bank

IS.W. The

Island and

[night : and
southward

trk for them
and Crow

*atch, wiih
Ihonis wide,
le of Grosso
^y has been
lite buoy on
Tossc Island
jsagc to the
loid a small
|ch u black

l(") fathoms.

Ill be near

n fathoms

TllK lUVEK OF ST. hAWRKNCK, IJl'WAKI).

13^

are close to it, with 7, 8, 9, and 5, fathoms, quite across. There is good clean anclioring-
ground, and easy tides, all the way.

When up to Melle-Chasse, stand no nearer to these islets than 8 fathoms, and to Madame
than 6 fathoms. The shoal extending from Madame has already been noticed, p. 121.

The mark for clearing the southern side of Madame Bank, as well as the (irosse Island
Tail and Patcli is, Ract; Island kopt just open to the southward of Margaret Islaixl. The
mark for the S.W. extreme, which is the point of the entrance of the North Traverse, is, the
north side of Beaux Island just ojion to die northward of Madame Islar.d, beaiing
N.E. 3 B., and St. N'aliier chuich bearing S. | E. The cross mark for clearing it to the
>S.\V.is, Ijerlhicr Church and the west end of Belle-Chasse Island in one.

The NouTii CiiANN'Kt. and Tit.WKusE and the Middle TnAVEUsr. are but seldom used,
and the description of thorn will be found on p. 121.

ST. VALLIER to (iUKBKC.— From the Point of St. Vallier to that of St. Laurent,
or St. Lawrence, in Orleans, the coursa-and distance are fiom VV.S.W. to S.W. by W.
0\ miles. Botii sides are bold; 10 fithoms in the fair-way from Orleans, and !! fatlioms
fiom the south shore. Ships may anchor toward the island, in from IG to 10 faihouis.

The Shoal of Bkai'Mont, described in page 121, is steep-to. Make short boards until
you are above Point St. Lawrence, when you will be above it, and may safely stand to tho
southward into 10 fathoms.

From Point St. Lawiiknck to Point Lkvv, the course and distance are W. by N. two
leagues. At a mile and a half westward from St. Lawrence's church is St. Patrick's Hole.
(Sec pa^o 123.) Here in about 10 fathoms, is the fair-way to tack from. Tite depth in
the middle is 10 fathoms.

From off Point Levy to (iuFitEC, the course is W.S.W., and tho distance about two
miles. Tiie shoals of Beauport, on the north side, may be easily avoided : in standing
toward them, advance no nearer than in 10 fathoms, as they are steep-to, and are, in some
parts, studded with rocks,

S/iips arriv'tuif at Quebec, with flood-tide and an easterly wind, should take in their
canvas in time, and have cable ready, as the ground in the basin is not very good for hold-
ing, the water being deep, and the tides strong, i)articularly spring-tides.

If obliged to come-to in the middle, there will be found from 10 to 20 fadioms abreast
of the town ; but near the wharfs, or at 2 cables' length from them, is a depth of 1 1
fathoms; and here vessels are easily brought up: but, in the offing, 16 fathoms of cable
will be required. On tho Point Levy side is a depth of nearly 30 f.ithoms, and the tides
are stronger here than near the wharfs. With the wind heavy from the eastward, the best
riding will be above the wharfs, off the cove called Diamond Harbour, in the depth of
10 fathoms.

The Bam.ast Guound, or place appointed by law for heaving out the ballast in, is to
the westward of two beacons fixed on the soudi shore, above Quebec. Tliese beacons stand
oil the brow of a hill, above a cove culled Charles Cove, and when in n line bear S.F..

GENEU.VL DESCRIPTION of tlie Rivfu of St. Lawrencf,
Dow.swAKU from Montreal to Qui:bec, &c.

Canada extends in the same parallels of latitude as the kingdom of Franco; but,
instead of exhaling the exipiisite fragrance of flowers, and ripening delicate fruits into
delicious excellence, as is the case in that country, its surface is covered with accu.nulated
snow for nearly one-half of the year, and vegetation is suspended for the same period by
continued frost. Notwithstanding this severity, ih" climate of Canada is congenial to
health in an eminent degree, and highly conduces to feitili/e its soil. Heat and cold are
certainly felt to extremes, and the laller, both in duration and intensity, is by far the most
predominant.*

Mr. Grece, in his publication on CJanada, where he has farmed extensively, says ** 'f'e
spring and summer months being very warm, not unhealthfully sultry, the rapid advance of

• Hou'heltc's Dcstripiion of C'nnnila, ISl'i.

136 DESCRIPTION OF THE IlIVEU OK ST. LAWRENCE, *

vegetation is almost incredible to those who have not actually visited it. Wheat has some-
times been sown as late as May 1 1, and harvested in the August following. Limestone is
abundant, and various other manures easily lo be obtained. Cherries, chestnuts, walnuts,
hickory, hazel and filbert nuts, being natural to the soil, grow wild ; as also grapes, goose-
berries, strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, cranberries, and black currants. All the
superior European fruits flourish, and orcharding is most successful. Game m immense
quantity and variety."

From the beginning of December until the middle of April, the water communication of
the River of St. Lawrence is totally suspended by the frost. During this period the river,
upward, from Quebec to Kingston, (in Upper Canada,) and between the great lakes,
excepting the Niagara and the rapids, is wholly frozen over ; the lakes themselves are
never entirely covered with ice, but it usually shuts up all the bays and inlets, and extends
many miles toward their centres. Below Quebec the river is not frozen over, but the force
of the tides incessantly detaches the ice from the shores, and such immense masses are kept
in continual agitation by the flux and reflux, that navigation is totally impracticable in these
months. By the beginning of May the ice is either dissolved or carried ofl'by the current.

The Island of MoNTREAr, is considered as the most beautiful part of Lower Canada.
On the S.E. side of it is the City, with its convenient port, at 90 sea-leagues from the Isle
Bic, and to this place ships of 600 tons may ascend, with very little difficulty. From
Montreal, downward, the navigation assumes a character of more consequence than what it
does above, being carried on in ships and decked vessels of all classes. In the distance
hence to Quebec, 45 leagues or 155 miles, the impediments to the navigation of large
vessels, up or down, are not many, and they may be readily overcome, if expedient for
cargoes to be so conveyed, in preference to small craft. On cither side of the river the
prospects are admirable, the land being in the highest state of improvement that the agri-
culture of the country will admit of, although the component parts do not possess that
degree of grandeur which is exhibited below (Quebec. Numerous villages are seen, for the
most part, built around a handsome stone church ; while single houses and farms, at agree-
able distances, appear to keep up a regular chain of communication. At about 39 miles
below Montreal, on the south bank of the river, is the town of William Henry, formerly
SouEL, which stands at the entrance of the River Richelieu, and above the lake of St. Pierre,
or St. Peter. The latter is 22 miles long and 8 broad ; but a portion of about 8 miles of
the western part is filled with a group of islands, which, hovvever, form two channels ; and
of these, the one on the south being the deepest and cleanest, is the best for ships ; the
entrance to it is indicated by a light vessel and a buoy. Here the banks on each side are
very low, with shoals stretching from them to a considerable distance, so that a narrow
passage only, with 18 to 12 feet of water, is left clear.

On the north side of the river, at about 33 miles below William Henry, is the town of
Trois Rivikres, or Three Rivers, the third in rank within the province of Lower Canada.
It stands at the mouth of the River St. Maurice, and here the tide entirely ceases. Iktween
Trois Rivieres and Richelieu Rapid, about 33 miles, there is little variation in the general
aspect of the country. At the Richelieu Rapid the bed of the river is so much contracted
and obstructed, by huge masses of rock, as to leave but a very narrow channel ; and in
this, at ebb-tide, is so great a descent, that much caution and a proper time of tide are ne-
cessary for passing through : at the end of the Rapid is good anchorage, where vessels can
wait for a convenient opportunity.

From Montreal, thus far, the banks are of a very moderate elevation and uniformly level ;
but hereabout they are much higher, and gradually increase in their approach to Quebi ,
until they attain the height of Cape Diamond, upon which the city is built. This spot, and
Point Levy, on the south sliorc, command the finest views that can b< nagined ; the assem-
blage of objects is so grand, and they are so beautifully cotitrasted, that the mind of the
spectator is overcome with a sensation which cannot be expressed. The capital, upon the
summit of the cape ; the river of St. Charles, which flows to the northward of it, through
a fine valley abounding with natural beauties; the Falls of Montmorenci, at two leagues to
the eastwaid ; the Island of Orleans, and the well-cultivated settlements on all sides, form
altogether a most beautiful picture.

las some-
nestnne is
, walnuts,
es, goose-
All the
1 immense

lication of
the river,
•eat lakes,
iselves are
id extends
It the force
es are kept
)le in these
e current.

er Canada,
am the Isle
Ity. From
lan what it
^e distance
)n of large
pedient for
le river the
lat the agri-
possess tiiat
cen, for the
(IS, at agree-
lUl 39 miles
IV, formerly
f St. Pierre,
t 8 miles of
innels ; and
ships ; the
ch side are
|at a narrow

llhe town of
(far Canada.
Between
I the general
contracted
jel ; and in
tide arc ne-
I vessels can

Irmly level ;

\o QUEBI ,

Is spot, and
the assem-
Mnd of the
upon the
I it, through
letig\ies to
sides, form

137
HATES OF PILOTAGE for tub River of St. Lawrence.— 1841.

From Rig to Quebec. Per Foot. £. s. d.

From the 2d to the 3Uth of April, inclusive 1 6

1st of May to the 10th of November, inclusive 18

11th to the 19th of November, inclusive 13

20th November to the 1st of March, inclusive 1 8

From Quebec to IJic.

From the 2d to the 30th of April, inclusive y 18 3

1st of May to the lOth of Novembf^i. niolusive 15 9

1 1 ih to the 19th of November, inciL-'ve 1 9

20th of November to the 1st of March, inclusive 1 5 9

Hates of pilot-water and poundage on pilot-money are payable at the Naval Oftice, by
masters and commanders of vessels.

For every foot of water for which masters and commanders of vessels are bound to pay
their pilots from Die to (Quebec, and from Quebec to Hie, 2j. Qd. currency, per foot.

For Vessels going to Three Rivers or Montreal,

Of 100 to 150 tons, inclusive, 21. currency.
Of 151 to 200 tons, inclusive, 3/.
Of 201 to 250 tons, inclusive, 4/.
Of 2j0 tons, and upwards, 5/.

On settling with pilots, masters or commanders of vessels, or the consignees of such
vessels, are to deduct Is. in the pound for the amount of the sums to be paid for
pilotage, which will be exacted by the Naval Officer at clearing out, the same being
funded by l;jw, under the direction of the Trinity House for the rel ief of decayed pilots,
their widows, and cliildren.

UtcuLATioNs for the pilotage above Bic to (itEnEc.

At or above the anchorage of the Brandy- Pols ; —

two-thirds of the present rate for a full pilotage.
At or above the Point of St. Roque ; —

one-third of ditto.
For above the Point au Pins, on the Isle aux Grues (Crane Island), and below Patrick's
Hole ; — one-fourth of ditto.

And at and above Patrick's Hole, 1/. 3j. 4rf.

For shifting a vessel from one wharf to another, between Brthant's wharf and I'oint a
Carcis, or to the stream from or to any of the above wharfs, 11*. 8rf.

For shifting u vessel from the stream or from either of the above wharfs, to St. Patrick's
Hole, or to the Basin of Montmorency, or to the Ballast (iround, the Basin of the Chau-
tliire, the Wolfe's Cove, and as far as the River Cap Rouge, U. 3s. Ad.

Rates fliorc </(ie Hakboi'k o/'(iuEUEC :

Fiiim Quebec to Port Neiif. To Quebec from Port Neiif

For vessels of registered measurement, not ex-

4/. currency. ceeding 200 tons 2/. 10s. currency.

Ql. „ If above 200 and not exceeding 250 tons •••. 3/. 10s.

6/. „ If above 250 tons 4/.

To Tlirec Rivers, or above From Thrrp Rivera, niul uImivo

Port Ncuf. I'ort Neiif

0/. currency. For vessels not exceeding 200 tons 4/. currency.

7/. „ If above 20O, and not exceeding 250 tons. • • . 4/. 10s.
8/. „ Ifabovey50 tons 5/. 10s.

To Montreal nnd above Froni Montreal and above

Tlirrc Rivers. Tliree llivtrH.

11/. currency. For vessels not exceeding 200 tons 7/. 10s. currency.

13/. „ If above 200, and not exceeding 250 tons. • • . 8/. 15».
\6l. „ If above 250 tons 10/. 15s.

Pilots arc at liberty to leave vessels forty-eight hours after they arrive at the place of
(heir destination.

■J

138

RATES charged for TOWING VESSELS by the Stkamers from

Quebec to Montreal, 1841.

Itreadth

<J It. <lrt
|ia> ea(

ft
h

Foroiicl)
(litiiiiKil t

1(1

M>t

DIIAIT

Ol" WAIKR ON liACII VI'.hSKI..

<j|

I'leani.

ii|)\rar<

over y ti

el.

10 ft( t

11 feet

12 fi'et

13 feet

1 1 feet

15 feet.

£. ».

(1.

£. s.

(i.

£.

£. .^.

£. s.

£.

,s.

tl.

£.

£. .<,. d.

2U feet.

3 (i

•3G

13 G

53 8

3 15

12 10

10 5

57 10

30 13

■1

1 3

10 3

(il 13 4

38 (J

1 11

17 10

52 1

05 10 8

38 8

4 1()

52 10

(i2

07 4

5 4

.>0 8

55 12

(iO

71 4

2()

41 12

5 12

52 10

58 8

(>9

75 4

13 4

(» l»

1!)

55 4

(U 4

79 4

tl 16

3 8

57 12

(J4

0|7G

83 4

Any vessel taking the boat at any intermediate distance between (Juebec and llie cliurcli
at Batisatn pays the full towage, as if towed from (iuebec. If taken in tow between
Batiscan (JIuircb and tlie wharf at Three Rivers, pays three-fourths of the full towage.
If taken in tow between the wharf at Three Rivers and Sorel, pays two-thirds of the full
towage. If taken in tow between Sorel and the church of Point aux Trembles, pays one-
half the full towage ; and from the church at Point aux Trembles, or any intermediate
place above the said point, to Montreal, pays one-third of the full towage.

It being understood that when towage is engaged for any vessels at Quebec, as they will
have the preference over others, the full towage is to be paid for, whether the whole, or
part, or none, of the towing be performed ; the deduction made referring to any vessel, for
which towage bad not been previously engaged at Quebec.

Passengers on board vessels in tow to pay one-half the steam. boat steerage rates.

Masters of vessels to furnish tow-lines and hawsers.

Not less than 9 feet to be charged as draft-water.

The greatest draft of water to be taken as measurement.

Should the masters of boats, from any just reason, feel it necessary to cast off a vessel,
no deduction to be made on the towage, provided they are re-taken by the first oppoitunily.

Vessels towed from Montreal, or any other place above Sorel to Three Rivers, to be
charged three-fourths of the towage to Quebec j and from Three Rivers and above Port
Neuf, to be charged one-half towage.

All pilotage to be paid by the masters or consignees.

In the event of the vessels grounding when in tow, in consequence of being too deeply
laden, or from the fault of the ship's pilot, the detention to be paid for; also the tariff rate
for freight taken out.

The Proprietors will not hold themselves liable for any damage that may be done to
vessels or warps, either in taking on or casting them off.

Towage payable on demand.

The [trip upward from Quebec to Montreal is now commonly performed in about 18
hours, and downward in 14; stoppages at TItrec Rivers and JFiltium llcnry^ of one hour
each, included.

Sec, upon this subject, the communications to and from Nath. Gould, Esq., * Nautical
Magazine,' J anxxary, 1834.

IS from

15 feet

. s.

«/.

3 (5

7 10

1 13

> 10

7 4

1 4

5 4

9 4

3 4

the church
kv between
1)11 towage.
of the full
, pays one-
itermediate

IS they will
; whole, or
' vessel, for

ites.

'a vessel,
ipoitunity.

,ers, to be
above Port

too deeply
tariff rate

be done to

n about 18
)f one hour

Nuutical

PART TIL

WESTERN COASTS of the GULF of ST. LAWRENCE,

BRETON ISLAND, &c.

I. The eastern COAST or NEW BRUNSWICK, &c.

The coast to the westward of Cape Rosier is described on page 109. Tlie coasts to the
south and eastward of it, as far as the Out of Canso, inclusive, will be comprised in the
present section.

CAPE GASPE, 7 miles S. i W. from Cape Rosier, in lat. 48° 45' 10', and long-
4^ 9' 22', is a most remarkable cape, standing out bold like a step, and having on its
N.E. side a magnificent range of cliffs, G'J2 feet in height. Close off the S.E. extremity of
the cape is a white rock, which is also a very remarkable object; it is called the blower
Pot, Sail liocli, or Old Woman, and is nearly 100 feet high. The action of the waves and
the ice have so worn away its base, that it seems impossible that it can resist their force.*
The clifTs around are also so undermined, that in some parts they are overhanging, and the
rocks fall down in large quantities.

G-ASPXS BAV is the finest and best harbour in the Gulf of St. Lawrence; the only
danger to be avoided being a spit of sand on the south shore, which forms a basin. The
b;iy is steep-lo on the east, and there can be no trusting to the load. The entrance is
formed by Cape Gaspe on the north, and Pvint Peter, or Flat Point, on the soutli. In
the Ray, at the distance of 1 1 miles from the entrance, within a point on tiie southern side,
near its head, is an excellent anchorage, in from 9 lo 12 fathoms of water, sheltered from
all winds. There is, also, good anchorage with westerly winds, off Louisa Cove, on the
western side of the bay, at about G miles N.W. by W. from Cape (laspc, in 9 or 10 fathoms.
Throughout the bay there is deep water; nearly 50 to 40 faUioms in the middle, and 20
very near the shore on the eastern side: on the western side it shoalcns more gradually
toward the coast. The tide tlows until 2 h. 30 m. on the full and change.

The shores of Gaspe Bay are elevated, and the settlers upon them nearly all fishermen.
Douglas Town is at the entrance of the River St. John, on the south side of die biiy.

The entrance of the Basin of Gaspe, whether viewed from without or within, is most
beautiful; wooded undulating hills rise lo the height of 500 feet on either side. Their
sides display the bright green fields of a humid climate, composing the farms of the princi-
pal families at Gaspe.

On proceeding to Gaspe to report or clear, it is not necessary to go farther up the Bay
than the town of Douglas, which is about six miles below Gaspe, there to anchor in 8 or
9 fathoms, and thence go up in the boat.

Here, in the summer, are almost regular sea and land-breezes. The sea-breeze sets in
about ten o'clock in the morning, atid continues till about sun-set; it then falls, and tiie
land-breeze springs up about ten at night.

At Grande GrSve, 3 J miles within Cape Gaspi the ridge of land narrows and dips, so
that there is a portage across it, leading to the settlements at C'ape Rosier.

The Seat Rockx, with 4 feet least water, are Cl miles within Cape Gaspr, one mile S.E.
by S. from Cape Brule, and half a mile offshore. They are the only detached daiij^er in
the bay, and when on their outer edge. Cape Brule is in one with the next clid'y point up
the bay ; and this only mark is sufficient for the safety of vessels beating, for the rocks are
out of the way with fair winds.

* At the distance of about .5 miles .S. S.E. from Cape Gaspr is a small fishing bank, with 15
fathoms over it, by .soir.c called the Norwich Bank, around which there is, at a short distance, a
depth oibti and GO fathoms.

140

WESTEUN COASTS OF THE CJl'LF.

t}:

Further up the bay, on the north side, is tlie Peninsuia, which is a low sand, covered
with s|)i'(ico-tr€es, and it lias several whale-sheds ne.ir its west point. About a mile south-
ward of it is Snndy-heuch Point, a very low and narrow point of sand, extending from the
N.E. side of Cape llaldimand on the south-west side of the bay, and which completely
shelters the Harbour, which is within it. On the inner side of Sandy-beach Point, and near
to its junction with the main land, stands a wooden windmill.

The Harbour is divided into the N.W. and S.W, arms. The deep water entrance of the
S.W. arm is called tl 2 Basin of Guspe, and it will hold a large number of vessels in perfect
security. The collecior of customs, and the principal families, reside on the shores of the
Basin, the inhabitants of which, generally, are farmers.

** Gasp<!' Bay* is deep, and open to the S.K., but, from the fishermen's account, it
scarce blows home from that quarter. There is good anchorage ofl' iJouglas Town, wiili
Cape Haldimand bearing N. by W. in 7 fathoms water, about a mile and a half from
the town.

" The Basin of Gasp<! is a most secure place, but the entrance is rather narrow and
difficult. From Cape llaldimand a long sandy point stretches nearly across to the N.W.
On the north shore, a little above Sandy-beach Point, is another sandy point, on which there
are some wooden whale-sheds. By bringing the end of the trees over the Whale-shed
Point on with the next point to the northward, which is covered with trees, it will lead yon
past Sandy-beach Point in 11 fathoms. This is a very good and pliiin mark; but, in
coming into the harbour, it is requisite to run well to the northward to bring it on. When
Douglas Town shuts in with Cape llaldimand, get the marks on as soon as possible, and
you will be quite safe.

" In working, the leading marks should only be brought on when standing toward Sandy-
beach. On standing to the northward you may go by the lead, but to the southward it is
of little use.

" The Seal Rocks are about three miles from the Sandy Point, and about half a mile from
the north shore. When you bring Douglas Towp on with Cape llaldimand, you will be
well to the westward of them, and may bring the leading mark on. On the southern
extremity of the Sandy Boach stands a small wooden windmill ; when you bring this on
with the west side of the point, you may haul up from the Basin.

" Directions for Entering the Basin. — From the fair-way between Whale Shed
and Sandy-beach Point, a course W. J S. will lead you to the entrance. Give a berth to
the south shore till you get abreast the bluff on the north side, off which, at three-quarters
of a cable, you will have b fathoms. The shoal water extends a cable and a half off shore,
from abreast the first house on the north side, which is built of stone, and is the only stone
house in the place. Run in a line up to the north point of the entrance, by keeping in 5
fathoms on the north shore, and giving a small berth to the north point. You may run in
without any difficulty, but must always beware of the south point at the entrance, off which
llie shoal water extends to some distance.

" From abreast the bluff on the north side, you will have three fathoms on the south side
at three-quarters of a cable from the beach, until you get about two cables' length from the
small red house tha< stands on the south beach at the entrance, when it becomes necessary
to haul right over for the north shore, in order to avoid the south point : but large vessels
should always keep on the north side, and never shoalen their water under 5 fathoms.

** Directions for leaving the Harbour. — The high land at the back of the Basin
forms a saddle, which is very distinct and easily seen. By bringing the houses on the south
point at the entrance on with the saddle, bearing W. > S., it will lead you between Sandy
Beach and Whale-shed Point in 12 fathoms, until the end of the trees on Whale-shed Point
comes on with the next point to the northward, which is the leading m.irk past the shoal.
When these two marks are on, the windmill on Sandy Beach will be in one with the west
point of the beach, which is the mark for hauling up for the Basin, when coming in, but is
a bad mark on going out.

" Working into the Hardour. — In standing to the northward you can go by the
lead, as the water shoalens gradually ; but in standing toward Sandy Beach, tack when the
leading mark comes on ; that is, tack when the end of the trees on VVhale-shed Point comes

The following observations and directions are communicated by Mr. Jellery, M.U.N.

covered
le soulli-
from llie
mpletely
and near

ice of the
in perfect
•es of the

:;count, it
wn, wilh
half from

irrow ami
iheN.W.
hich there
hale-shed
lead you
; but, in
1. When
siblc, and

ifd Sandy-
tward it is

mile from
ou will be
3 southern
ng this on

hale Shed

a berth to

e-quarters

off shore,

)nly stone

ping in 5

ay run in

off which

south side
i\ from the
] necessary

;e vessels
loms.

Ilhe Iksin
J the south
len Sandy
lied Point
Ithe shoal,
the west
lin, but is

JO by the
Fwhen the
lilt comes

• N.

GASPK BAY.

141

on wilh the next point norlliward of if, until tlic saddle comes on wilh the houses at the
S. entrance of the Hasin, and vice-versa.

" The shoal water extends about GOO yards from Sandy Beach ; and from the high-water
mark on Sandy-beach Point to the entrance of the Basin is N. 78° W. 2\ miles. Whale-
shed Point is quite bold ; you may approach it to half a cable.

" You may anchor anywhere in the harbour in from 5 to 1 1 fathoms, muddy bottom :
but remember ihal, in running tip for the Basin, approach no nearer the south shore than in
."j fathoms wilh a large ship, until you get abreast llie bluff on tlie north side ; then the south
side is bold ; when you arc within half a mile within Sandy-beach Point the leading marks
are of no use ; then go by the lead."

DinECTiONs for Gaspe by Mr. Dt:KSTrRvri.LE. — In proceeding up to Gaspc Harbour,
keep the starboard shore on board, and you will soon raise a long low tongue of shingly
beach on the larboard bow, which is about a mile in extent from the western shore : this
forms a most excellent and secure basin of several miles in extent. In rounding the point
of beach, give it a berth of a quarter of a mile, in order to avoid a shallow spit which
extends from it. On proceeding upward you will open the harbour. The entrance of this
is very narrow, with depths of 7 to 5 fathoms ; but unless you have a fair wind, you must
anchor at the entrance and work in, when you will be sheltered from all winds. Off ihe
south point stretches a long spit of gravel, with from 3 to 8 feet over it, extending nearly
two-thirds of the channel across. In 1831 there was a beacon on its extremity. High
water, on the full and change, at 3 h. Rise, 3 feet. The winds, in fine weather, land and
sea-breezes ; but when heavy dew falls, with west or northerly winds, the pilots say * wc
shall have a southerly wind in a few hours.' I have frequently noticed it.

MAL BAY. — From Point Peter, the south point of Gaspo Bay, off which there is a
little islet, called Flat Island, the bearing and distance to lionatenturc Island are, S. by
W. \ W., six miles. Between, lies the bay called AJal hay or Cod Day, which is nearly
five miles in width.

Mai Bay has a clean sandy bottom, and ]here is good riding in ten fathoms, wilh the wind
off shore. Should a ship be caught here wilh wind from the eastward, she can either run
up off Gaspe Bay, (if not able to clear Ihe land) or run to the southward between Bona-
venture and Perct; Islets, toward Chaleur Bay ; only taking care to avoid the Leander
Hock, which lies off Cape Despair.

From Perce, along Mai Bay, to Point Peter, there is an excellent beach for fishing,
part of which is named La Belle Anse, otherwise Lobster Beach : close to this place is
the house of the late governor Coxe.

The town of Peuck, situate on the southern side of Mai Bay, between the Perce Rock
and White Head, is inhabited principally by fishermen, and has a gaol and court-house.
In front of it the beach is convenient for the curing of fish, and off it are some of the best
banks for catching them.

At Perec the scenery is most beautiful. The Perce Mountain is 1235 feet in height
above the sea, from which it rises abruptly on the north side, where the precipices of red
sandstone and limestone, 070 feet high, arc washed by the waves. The remarkable
shapes of this mountain, the Perc6 Rock, and Bonaventure Island, wilh its red cliffs, the
fields, houses, and fishing establishments, form altogether a beautiful picture.

There is much diversify and beauty in the features of the country about Gaspd and
Perc(5. Mountains of the height of from 1000 to 2000 feet, wilh great variety of form, are
seen in the head of Gasp<^ Bay, dividing it into arms, and forming fertile valleys, in which
are farms requiring cultivation only, to amply repay the labour of the farmer. These
mountains are of secondary rocks, sandstones, and shells, and are wooded to their summits.

Bonaventure Island, which lies at a mile and a quarter to the eastward of the point of
Perce, is very high, particularly the eastern point, which is nearly perpendicular. This
is little better than a barren rock, but yet a few persons are hardy enough to winter on if,
for the sake of retaining possession of the fishing places they have occupied during the
summer. Near the point stands the Perce Islet or Keck, a most remarkable barren while
rock, which at a distance resembles a citadel. From the main to this rock extends a bank,
which is nearly dry at low water ; but between the rock and Bonaventure Isle is a good
deep channel with anchorage.

The Perce Rock is precipitous, nearly inaccessible, 288 feet high, and about 1200 feet

142

M'LSTEftN COASTS OF THE (;ULF.

in length. The sea has formed througl) it three natural orches ; ilie central sufficiently large
to admit a boat under sail to pass throu);h it. In the sprint; the inhabitants ascend this
rock for eggs, and in the autumn for the fine natural grass which grows on its summit ;
although the ascent, by means of ropes and poles, is both difficult and dangerous.

Nearly 2 miles S.S.E. from ("ape Despair lies ihe sunken rock, called the I.eander Shoal,
over which there is a depth of 16 feet of water in one spot. As this lock lies in the fair-
way of ships coming from the northward, with northerly winds, for Chaleur Hay, it should
be avoided by givin;^ the cape a berth of 3 miles. The leadini^ marks for it are as follow :
the line of the White Head in one with U»e inner or N.W. end of Peror Rock, just passer,
outside of the shoal, in 7 fathoms ; therefore the whole of Perce Kock well open to the
eastward of die outside of White Head, will lead clear outside of all, I'rom half to the
whple of the I'crcc llock shut in behind the White Head, will lead clear between it and
(Jape Despair.

The bearing and distance from Cape Despair to Point IMaquereau are W.S.VV. \ W.
19 miles. Hetween these points lie the two coves called P«/mjs and Petite Pabos, or Pabou
and Little Pubou, as shown on the Chart.

On the western side of the entrance of Pabou IlAunoua is a small village; and, on the
opposite side, on a projecting point, stand the summer habitations of the lisliermen, as they
are usually termed. Several streams descend into this harbour from a numerous chain of
small lakes to ilie north-westward.

Next to the westward of Pabou is the township and inlet of Ponx Daniel, where vessels
may find convenient shelter during westerly and N.W. winds.

Port Daniel is open to winds from East to S.S.W. H.M. sloop Ranger, in 1831,
anchored in 7 fathoms, with the west point of the entrance (to which a berth must be given)
S.VV. J W., about a mile and a half. The starboard shore is quite bold. A few <lescend-
ants of French peasantry, who cannot speak iMiglisli, reside here : they exist by cod-fishing,
though a few salmon are Ov;casionally caught. The fish, when cured, are disposed of at
Paspebiac, or New Carlisle, to the S.W., where there is a store belonging to Guernsey
mercliants, who barter, at a great profit, with all the poor and industrious fishermen through-
out Chaleur Bay, and round to Bonavcnture Island. The time of high water here, on the
full and change, is 2 h. ni. The tide rises 4 feet.

Paspi:iuac. — At Paspebiac, above mentioned, six leagues to the south-westward of Port
Daniel, is a good anchorage, sheltered from the N.W. round by the eastward 'o S.E. by the
main land, and a long spit of beach, off which, to the westward, nearly a mile, extends a
spit of hard ground, having from 1 \ to 'I faUioms over it. In order to avoid the latter, on
coming from the eastward, do not haul in for the anchorage till the Protestant clnirch, which
is the westernmost, is brought to bear N.N.E. J E. ; then anchor, according to the draught
of the vessel, in G to 4 fathoms, stiff clay, with tlie south point of the btach from E.S.E. to
S.E. ; the Protestant church N.l'^. .J N. ; ofl' shore a quarter of a mile or less. Watering is
excellent, from half-lide, by filling in the boats by your own hoses. The water comes from
a rock, is considered very good for keeping, and is gained witliout expense. It is situated
nearly off the centre of die anchorage. The winds were light, from the southward and east-
ward, during the stay of the Ranger, in fine weather. The land on this side of Chaleur iJay
is hii<h ; it is the same hence to Perce and Bonavcnture Island. At the latter places, the
winds, in t!.e summer season, differ as much as eight points from those in Chaleur Bay.—
(Mr, Dunstcrville.)

CHAXiEUR BAV. — Point IMaquereau and Miscou Island form the entrance of
Chaleur Hay, and bear from each other S. | E. and N. J W. distant 4i leagues, i'rom
Ihe entrance of (Jhaleur Bay to that of Ristigouche Harbour, which is at its head, the dis-
tance, on a West and N.W. by W. course, is 22 leagues. The bay is of moderate depth
near the shore on both sides, and has, toward the middle, from 45 to 20 fathoms of water.

The town of New Caumstk, on the harbour of Paspebiac, is the principal town of
Chaleur Bay ; it is situate in Coxe Township, oii the nordi shore, as shown in the Chart;
and is so laid out as to become hereafter a compact and regular little place. The number
of houses is about fifty, all of wood : it has a court house and a gaol. The situation is very
healthy, and the surrounding lands some of the most fertile in the district. In front is an
excellent beach, as above described, where die fish is cured and dried. :^

In the adjoining township of Hamilton, on the west, is the village of Bonavcnture, con-

enlly InrRC
iscend this
s summit ;

yuler Shoal,
in llic f.iir-
y, it should
I as follow :
just passes
)pen to l!»e
half to the
ween it and

.S.W. \ W.
)j, or Pabou

and, on the
Tien, as they
ous chain of

,vhere vessels

ler, in 1831,
list be given)
few (lescend-
^ cod-fishing,
isposed of at
to Guernsey
men through-
• here, on the

.ward of Port
S.E. by the
extends a
latter, on
lurch, which
the draught
im K.S.K. to
Watering is
comes from
It is situated
ivd and east-
Chalcur IJjy
r places, the
ilcur Bay. —

entrance of

"ues. Trom

ead, the dis-

|derate deplh

IS of water.

Ipal town of
In liie Chart ;
JThe number
]alion is very
front is an

\cnture, con-

AIIUAISIICIIT.

143

taining about twenty-five houses and a churtli, on level ground. It is entirely dependent
on the fishery.

From Uonavcnture the land turns to N.W. by N. towards Caicaprdiuc lioy, on the west
side of which is Miunit Carlvton, 1030 feet hiuh ; the shore is iron-bound, and has several
rivulets of fresh water. Within the bay is anchorage in 4, 5, and 6 fathoms water. The
head of the Ijay is shoal, into which the River Cascapcdluc empties itself.

In FliSTicoicnF. IlAunoun, at the head of Chaleur Hriy, there is good anchorage in from

8 to 12 fathoms, land-locked from all winds ; but it is so difiicull of access, that it should
not be attempted without a pilot.* The tide flows here, on full and change, until 3 o'clock,
and its vertical rise is 6\ or 7 feet.

Vessels bound into Chaleur liay should make for Miscou Island, which they can round
by the lead, for it shoalens gradually from 20 to 3 fathoms, the latter depth beini; near
Miscou Point; should it be foggy, which in summer time is frequently the case, it will be
advisable to steer from thence toward the northern sliore, bearing about W.N.W., when you
most probably fall in witli Nouvcllt Harbour, Here stands a church, upon some rising
ground to the northward of the town or villa'/e, which is built along the beach, and lies low.
Proceeding westward up (!halour May from hence, you will pass round the low point of
Pnspebiac, above mentioned, and reach Now Carlisle. Having got abreast of this, if you
aie bound to Nipisigliit I5ay, or St. Peter's, then by keeping on the northern shore as thus
directed, you will readily know how far you have proceeded up the bay, and may then
haul across with greater certainty for the land, between Carafjuetle Point and Cape Idas,
which you may approach to, by the lead, without the least danger.

The land on the northern shores of Chaleur Bay is in a high statG of cultivation, when
compared with the southern shores ; and this, perhaps, is the principal cause why the fogs
that obscure it are less heavy on the former than on the latter.

The distance from the north point of Miscou Island to the south point of Shippigan is
19 miles : the course is nearly S.W. by S. From the south point of Shijipigan toTracadic,
the course and distance are S.W. | S. 4 leagues. I'rom Tracadie to Point I'.scundnac, on
the south side of the entrance of Miramkhi Buj/, the course is S. by W. J W., distance

9 leagues.

The land from Miscou Island to the entrance of Miramichi Bay is low, as well as the
southern side of Chaleur Bay. Point FLscuminac, on the south side of Miramichi Bay, is
likewise low, but a beacon is erected on it, by which it may be known; and pilot-boats
invariably come ott'from this place, INliscou Island, on the north and east sides, should be
approached with caution by the lead ; say not nearer than in two miles and a half, and in
7 fathoms. The lionc^er anchored in 10 fathoms, wiUi the north point of Miscou E. \ N.
about three miles. Here it is high water, f^n the full and change, at 2 h. and the flood sets
in to the S.W. , about one mile an hour.

nCZRAMZCRZ is a large harbour and free warehousing port, in the mouth of which
there are several islands; between the northernmost of these islands, called Waltham or
Portage Island, and the next to it, called Fox Island, is the passage into the bay, which is
intricate and shallovv at low water. Hence it is requisite to have a pilot. The pilots'
houses stand within Escuminac Point, and sometimes pilots for this place may be found in
the Gut of Canso.

IMirarnicfd River is considered by Capt. Bayfield as second to the St. Lawrence. Nine-
teen feet can be carried into the river in ordinary spring-tides, and twenty or Iwenly-oue
feet by watching for opportunities.

INIiramichi is a place of rising importance ; the great fire of 1823 gave so severe a blow
to its prosperity that it is still felt; but the place is recovering fast, and two or three
hundred vessels load during the season with timBer, at the several towns and settlements on
its banks. The attention of the population is at present almost entirely turned to the timber
trade, although the salmon and gaspereaux fisheries are carried on in their season. The
improvement of the natural capabilities of the country is but little attended to.

Chatham, the port ai;d principal town on the river, stands on the south bank, at 20

• Wc presume, howcvi .
Cliait of the Ouit of St. I.>

that the particular Chart of Kistigouche Harbour, given on the large
vcncc will ol)\ialc this iliiliculty.

]44

NORTHERN COASTS OF NOVA SCOTIA.

miles from iJie entrance; and llie town of Xtwcastlc is al)Out four nniles higher up, on the
opposite bank.

Trom the northern part of Miscou Island to Kscuminac Point, the soundings are regular ;
nnd, in thick wealiicr, the shore may be approaclied by the lead to the depth of 12 or 10
fathoms.

From Eseuminac Point to the entrance of Itichihiicto Harbour, the course and distance
are S. by VV. | W. 7 leairues ; from Uichibucto Harbour to the entrance of Huchtnch,
S. J W. 19 miles; from Uuchtuch to Cocuguc llurbonr, S. J E. 5 miles; from Cocagne
to Shidiac Harbour, the distance is i\ leajiues. From Shediac to Cape Tormentin, the
coast trends S.E. by B. \ V.. 10 leagues. The harbours here mentioned are not of sufli-
cient depth to admit large ships for a lading.

RICHIHUCTO. — The depth of water at the entrance r** the harbour of Uichibucto, in
1828, was, at the best tide, 18 feet, and at the common tide I6i. When ofT the harbour,
in 6 or 8 fathoms of water, vessels run in by keeping two large beacons in a line, until near
the sand-hill, and then run N.W. along the shore, in 'i\ to 3 fathoms of water, until they
are in safety. A large buoy is laid down in 5 fathoms, outside the bar, for a guide ; which
buoy, from seaward, can be seen at more than a league off. Richibucto has a very tine
water-communication with the interior country. Liverpool, the port town of Uichibucto,
stands on the western side, at four miles from the bar.

Southward of Richibucto the coast is low, and 10 miles from it is the entrance of
Buchtuch Uarbmr, and 5^ miles farther is Cocagne Harbour. From Shediac the coast
trends to the westward to Cape Torraentin.

Shf.diac. — The port of Shediac possesses the most favourable advantages and facilities
for establishing a dep/'tt and a communication thence to the i3ay of I'undy, for sailing and
steam vessels, not exceeding 16 feet water, as IB is to be obtained across the Har and up to
the point of Le Chtne, at which place a wharf is to be built, the provincial government
havi g already allotted money for that purpose.*

At the distance of two miles S.S.K. from Cape Tormentin there is a shoal, having over
its shoalest part a depth of only 6 feet. Its shape resembles a Ian. Small vessels pass
within it. The outer part, on which there is a depth of 20 feet, lies at 3J miles from the
point.

On the coast northward of Cape Tormentin is a bank of two fathoms, extending about
two miles off; but the lead, in rounding it, will be a sufficient guide.

Within Cape Tormentin is the isthmus and boundary between New Brunswick and Nova
Scotia, the narrowest part of which, from the Hay V'erte to Cumberland Basin, at the head
of Cliignecto Bay, is only 12 miles in breadth.

The northern COASTS or NOVA-SCOTIA, &c.

The general features of the Northern Coast of Nova-Scotia are pleasing: the land low
and even, or slightly broken by agreeable inequalities. In the Strait of Northumberland,
to an extent, from end to end, of not less than 100 miles, the bottom, in many places nearly
level, varies in depth from 20 to 10 fathoms. The bottom is, generally, a stiff red clay, and
good holding ground.

Between Cocagne on the west, and the high rock called the Barn, on the east, the shore
is, in general, bound with red cliffs and beaches under them. The inland country, between
Tatmagouche and the basin of Coberjuid, appears remarkably high to vessels in the offing.

* A canal is in contemplation to communicate with the Bay of Fundy, but its exact line is not yet
determined on, but proposed by way of Dorchester Isle, a small isle at the entrance of the river Mem-
ramcook, as decidedly the most eligible : for we are assured that 12 feet may be found in the entrance
of that river at low water; and there would be, consequently, little or no delay over land ; and
moreover, the river can be easily dammed up at a little way from its entrance, with a rise of .50 feet
of water. Another point of great importance is, that the Memramcook is not backed by any heavy
stream or rear-water ; it is consequently slow in its rise and fall. All other approaches, by the
Peteudiac River, or Cumberland Basin, run at a furious rate, and would be attended with great
risk and delay. When this canal is cut, a distiince not exceeding Ifi or 18 miles, steam-boats will
be able to ell'cct a passage from the wharfs in St. John's to Quebec in 50 or CO hours, according to
the slate of the weather, &c. — Captain Cfius. Hare, 1839.

nAMSMF.G HAUBOUK TO CAUIUOU HAUMOl'U.

145

up, on the

re regular ;
,f 12 01 10

lul distance
liuchlHchy
x\ Cocagne
menlin, llie
lot of sufti-

ihibucto, in
,1)6 iiarboiir,
e, until near
, until lliey
lide; which
5 a very fine
llicliibucto,

entrance of
ac the coast

\nd facilities
r sailing and
iar and up to
I government

, having over

l vessels pass

les from the

ending about

ck. and Nova
at the head

the land low
lumberland,
places nearly
ed clay, and

ist, the shore
try, between
the offing.

line is not yet
\c river Mem-

the entrance
zr land ; and
fise of 50 feet

jy any heavy
Iches, by the
led with great
lini-hoats will

according to

in Bay Vf.rti', within Cape Tormentin, the shores are lined with fl.its, formed by the
decomposition of ilic coast; but the anchoiau;e is good. Vessels of consider:il)le burthen
take in cargoes of timber here. The interior, from the Bay to Amherst, Cumberland,
Tantamaree, &c. is in a highly improved slate.

llivF.R I'liiLir — To the southward of Cape Tormentin, at the distance of 41 leagues,
is the entrance of the River Philip, a bar-harbonr, having only 10 ft ft at the entrance. In
advancing toward this place, when in the depth of ,'i fathoms, anotlitr harbour will be seen
on the eastern or larboard side, which is called Poifii>iis/i. In the lathr, slii|)s drawing
17 feet load timber. This harbour is safe; but the entrance is so narrow as t.» re(|nirc a

Cilot. Ships commonly anchor in H fiithoms, at 3 miles from shore, with the entrance
earing to the S.l'^.

From Cape Tormentin to Cliff Cape, the bearing and distance are S. by E. J F,.
16 miles; from CliH'C'ape to Shoal Poitit S.F.. 3 miles; and from Shoal Point to Cape
John S. K. by E. 11 miles. Between the latter lie the harbours of lUmsheg and Tatma-
gouche, which are good and well sheltered, but each rerpiires a pilot.

BAMSHRC UAUBOUR.— The flats extending from each shore, at the entrance of this
harbour, leave but a narrow chaimel, ihrougli which, at all times, excepting at slack water,
the tide runs with great velocity, and retiders the navigation into it very unsafe, although
the depth up to the anchorage is sufficient for a frigate ; there being, in mid-chatmel,
3-1 faUioms at low water. In sailing in, steer south, westerly, toward (Iravois Cliff, giving
Shoal Point a berth of a mile, until the N.W. arm is well open ; then steer for the latter,
keeping your lead going, until the beach to the N.W. of Gravois Cliff" bears S.VV. by W.

TATMAGOUCHE. — On the western side of Amet Isle, the passage is quite clear ; but,
in sailing in from the eastward, between Cape John and the Isle, you should keep nearest
to the cape, as a ledge extends from the isle to a considerable distance. Amet is a low
island, without tiees, and it will be most prudent to keep at least three-quarters of a mile
from it. The best anchorage for ships is in Harbour or lliver John, on the east sid%(^ 4
or h fathoms, muddy bottom. Small vessels may run up to Tatmagouche, and ancnor oft'
the town in 10 or 12 feet at low water. Hero the tide rises 5 feet, on full and change, and
flows till 7 o'clock.

In coming from the eastward, when between Amet Island and Cape John, your course
toward River John will be W. by S. In passing between the island and cape, you will
have 4^ fathoms, until you open the lliver John, on the larboard side. You will then have
7, 8, and 9 fathoms ; and, if bound for this river, or for Tatmagouche, may obtain a pilot,
by ntaking the usual signal. There is anchorage at 2 miles from shore.

In Ramsheg, Tatmagouche, and John Harbours, ships of 15 feet draught load timber.

The Ranger, in 1031, anchored off" Cape John in 9i fathoms, with Amet Island W. by S.
3 to 4 miles. She passed over a ledge of rocky bottom, having over it 2i to 3 fathoms, at
about two miles to the eastward of the island, and on which lobsters abounded.

On any part of this coast you may anchor in the summer season. It is high water in
the offing at 10 o'clock, and the rise is from G to 7 feet. The stream of flood sets to the
N.W. as far as Cape Tormentin, expending its strength in the Bay Verte ; but from
Miramichi and Cape North, (Prince Rdward Island,) the flood sets to the southward, about
tv.o knots an hour, (till 9 o'clock,) to Cape Tormentin, whence it appears to run toward
liillsboro' Bay. The time of high water off" Cape Egmont, full and change, is 10 h. The
stream runs two knots in the honr. Vertical rise, 4 feet : the flood sets to the southward.
The tides meet at Cape Tormentin, off" which the dangerous ledge above mentioned extends
to the S.E., and over which the sea generally breaks.

CARIBOU HAIIBOUR.— From Cape John to Caribou Point the course and distance
are E.S.E. G leagues. Here the water gradually shoalens to the shore, from the depth of
8 or 9 fathoms, at two miles oflT. To strangers it may be dangerous to approach Caribou
Harbour, as it has frequently been mistaken for Pictou, which lies to the south-westward,
and some have run on shore before the error has been discovered. For it is to be observed,
that ships are seen riding, not in the entrance of the harbour, but witliin a sand-bank,
stretching from side to side, with not more than 3 or 4 feet over it, and which appears like
a good channel. Small vessels load with timber here.

Caribou may be known from Pictou by observing Uiat the hollow land over it appears
like a deep inlet; but the high lands of Pictou seem to fold over each other, and blind the

146

PTCTOU iiAiinoim.

entrance. The ledges about Caribou cxtciul mure tbnn a rnile from shore, and lomc of (hem
are dry at low water.

Nearly in mid-channcl, to the northward of Caribou Point, is a rocky shoal of 10 feet,
lying as shown on the Chart. It is a (|uart('r of a mile in circumference, and around it the
depths arc 4, 5, and 6 fathoms. The tide, both el>b and tlood, sets rapidly over it.

PZCTOU. — Pictou Harbour is the principal port of the north coast of Nova Scotin.
it has a bur at its mouth, of 15 feet, inside of which is a capacious and beautiful basin,
with 5, 0, and 9 fathoms, muddy bottom. The town is situatcil at about three miles from
the entrance, and many houses are built of stone. It contains uii episcopal, a Koinan
catholic, ami two presbyterian chapels. There are, also, the academy, grammar-school,
court-house, and a publu- library.* The population in 18'2il was nearly 1.500 souls, and
it has since very rapidly increased : it cannot now be less than between '2500 and 3000.
I'ictou has been declared a free warehoittinir port, and its trade is very considerable in
lumber, coal, an<l the fishery. Coasters from all parts of the (Julf of St. Ljiwrence resort
to Pictou, and its exj>orts have amounted to 100,000/. in a single year. One hundred
vessels have been loaded here with timber for (ircat llritain, and its exports to the West
Indies were not less extensive and important.! — liouchetle, Vol. II. page 19.

Within the bar and the beach, the water deepens to 5, G, and 7 fathoms, muddy bottom.
This depth continues up to the town, opposite to which a mud flat extends outward so fai-
ns to leave the channel nndway betwi en the two shores. Above the town the river divides
into three branches, as shown in the Chart; of these, the eastern one is windinir, but
navigable to vessels drawing !.'> feet, about four miles upward, at which distance the river
is impeded by a bar, although above it the water increa.ses. At 9 miles above the town of
Pictou are the well-known coal-pils, the produce of which is brought down to the bar in large
flat boats. The Middle and West Rivers are navigable upward to a considerable distance.

The town of Walmsly, on the north side of this harbour, is the residence of the principal
merchants who load timber in these parts.

The li^htftousc of Pictou is an octagonal wooden structure, painted red and white in ver-
tical stripes,! and exhibits a brilliant Jived Uf^ltt at G5 feet above the Itvol of the sea.

PICTOU ISLAND, which lies ofl' the entrances of Pictou and Merigomish, is culti-
vated, and contains about 3000 acres. Tine quarries of freestone have been opened here,
and strong traces of coal are visible in several places about the clifls. Prom the east end a
spit of rocks extend about a mile; and, at the E.N.K. from it, one league and a half, is a
shoal of 21 feet. Hetwcen the island and Merigomish the bottom is muddy, and the depth
from 1 1 to 7 fathoms.

II. M. sloop Itmiger, in passing between Pictou Island and Caribou Point, 18lh of
August, 1831, while in stays, struck on a sunken rock, the circumference of which, on
examination, was found to be 400 yards, and the tide set over it at the rate of 2 J miles an
hour, the flood setting to the N.N.W. making high water, on the full and change, at
9 h. 30 m. The position of the rock renders it extremely dangerous to ships leaving

• Coaches arc now csfatilished for the communication between I'ictuu and Halifax, and a steamer
between I'ictou and Quebec.

t In the Nautical Magazine of June, 1839, arc some very infercstinff " Notes on the St. Lawrence
Fisheries," by Capt. It. Fair, R.N., and on Pictou are the following; remarks: —

" The trade of this port is rapidly increasing, and the town of New (Jltisgow, in the nciKhbourhood
of tlie coal-mines, (distant nearly 8 miles from Pictou,) promises to be of considerable importance.
Upwards of 30,000 tons of coal were exported from these mines in the year preceding our vLsit, most
of which was for the United States, and in American bottoms. There is no fishing carried on in
Pictou. The country around, being agricultural, is rapidly improving : and the quick intercourse
by steam with Prince ICdward Island promises to be of great advantage."

X A circumstance, which has of\en caused serious loss ai.d damage to vessels navigating the coasts
of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, in the spring months, should be Htteiuled to.

The farms fronting the sea-coast arc separated by worm fences, wliich in most cases are at right
angles to the coast line ; and when their direction happens to be such that tlie prevalent snow-storms
in winter cause a deposition, often Severn! feet in height, to leeward of them, which continues some
weeks after the disappearance of the snow from the fields themselves, they are exactly similar in
appearance to the lighthouses on the coast, which latter are mostly built of wood, and were painted
white ; and so perfect is the rcBcmblancc, that the masters of coasters, and persons well acquainted
with the coast, are themselves often misled. — Lieut. Kendnll, II. N. 1838. The lighthouses are now
distinguishable, from their being painted with black or red stripes, as described.

ome of (liem

I of 10 feet,
round it tite
er il.

S'ov;i Scolin.
iiitifiil basin,
e miles from
il, a Koinun
ininr-school,
sonls, and
10 and 3000.
isiderahlc in
pvrcncp resort
[)ne hundred
to the West

iddy bottom,
ntward so fav
river divides
winding, but
mce tlie river
e the town of
lebarin large
ble disiancc.

' tlie principal

white in vcr-
the sea.

nish, is culti-

opened here,

he east end a

id a lialf, is a

nd the depth

oint, 18lh of
|i)f which, on
if 2i miles an
Id change, at
hips leaving

land a steamer
St. Lawrence

leighbourhood
|lu importance.

3ur visit, most
J carried on in
Ick intercourse

Iting the coasts

Ics are at right
It snow-storms
ontinues some
[:tly similar in
were painted
lell acquainted
ouses arc now

PICTOU.

147

Pictou Harbour for the wcitward, as it lies immediately in the fairway. The channel (o
the westward of the shoal in generally adopted, in which there is from 3^ to 4 fathoms of
water, with irregular soundmgs.

The chiinufl Inturen I'lctoii Island and Carihon was shortly nfler sounded by Mr.
Duuttert'itlf, the master of the Uaiiger, who found that the sunken rock, lying at about
one-third of the channel across from the isiund, had about 12 feet over it, with the west end
'•f I'icton isLiiid hearing L. \ S. At about two ships' length of it, eastward and westward,
'f^. fr( til 4 to •> fathoms, and bctwtrn the rock and I'ictou ishuul, in tiie cenlrr, were 6J
fijil' >ms ;il low water; but westward of the rock, fioin 3i to 4^ fathoms, hard ground :
t. ', trnin the irri-gularity of (he soundings generally, it is recommended that no vessel of
more than iO fe<t should ever attempt this passage.

The long mark to clear the shoal to the westward is, a high hill inland, (the westcrnmoat
in si^hi,) on with the highest part of the land at the south side of the entrance of the
harbour, bt-aring about S. by W. 3 NV. : and the mark to go over the rock is the ton of the
abovo-nicntioned hill on with the ri^e of the northern point of the entrance to the narbour
of Pictou, which has, or had, a clump of trees upon it.

The llaibuur of Vktou is capable of containing ships of any burthen. The mark for
running over the Mar, and clearing ,\ spit of gravel, that extends from lh<; northern point of
the I'litranct" of the bay that forms the iiar')our, is a stone on the .south point of the town,
just within the spit of low gravelly br-acn on the southern side of the entrance into the
harbour. The Ranger turned in, with the stone from end to i nd of the beach, and had
from 3 to 4 1 fathoms. The beach to the northward of the narrows is very bold ; and as
you approach the town, in beating up, do not approach the southern shore into less than
4 fathoms in a large ship, as a shoal bank exteiuls nearly one-third of the channel across.

With a fair wind you borrow on the north shore, where the water is the deepest, carrying
from (3 to a fathoms, muddy bottom, and anchoring off a slake, near the south end of the
town, in 7 fathoms.

" PiCTotj • is a place of rising importance ; its timber trade has rather fallen off of late,
but the coal-mines in the immediate neighbourhood have opened a very brisk trade in that
article, which occupies some hundreds of vessels, of all dimensions, in die coasting and
foreign trade, many of which carry from 500 to 700 tons, chi'.fly trading to the United Stales.

" The bext anchorage in Pictou Roads is in 7 fathoms, witii the following bearings : — the
liflhlhouxc vicsX; Point Caribou iiotth ; and the Roaring liull I'oint S.K.; the latter is a
liigh blutr, sloping to the southward, and has a small while house on the slope. From this
bluff a reef extends north three cables' length, and from Point (Jaribou another, west, nearly
half a mile. Here you are sheltered comjiletely from the ^.K. by the S., round to north,
and, in a great measure, as far as N.K. by the island and reofs oH' it. In fact, the only
winds that throw in any sea, are those from the S.K. by li. to N.K. by K., and they are fair
for running into the harbour, which may bt; attempted, in almost any weather, by ships
drawing from 18 to 20 feet.

'♦ To run in, bring the small while house to the left of the lighthouse, and close to it, on
with a long building appearing ofl' the starboard point of the harbour, (it lies to the left of
a small but remarkable gap in the N.W. land,) bearing W. ^ N. ; keep then on until
Roaring Bull Point begins to be shut in wilh the east land, by which time you will be
pretty close to the low sandy beach on which the lighthouse stands : then haul over to the
northward, toward a bushy tree, standing by itself on the north shore, until you are in mid-
channel between it and the lighthouse point. You may then proceed up the harbour, west,
in mid-channel, toward the point with the building, above mentioned, and, rounding it at a
convenient distance, anchor at pleasure, ofl' the town, in 7 or 8 fathoms. Or, if only taking
the harbour for shelter, you may anchor anywhere within the lighthouse, in mid-channel.
The holding ground is excellent, and you are here secure from all winds.

" On the inner bar, at high water, spring tides are from '22 to 23 feel of water ; on the
outer bar, 5 fathoms; between the bars, 7 and 8 fathoms. The tide, on full and change,
flows at 10 h. and rises from 6 to 8 feet, according to the wind : neaps rise from 3 to 5 feet.
Tlie lighthuuse is painted red and white, in vertical stripes, and is very coiispicuou.'S for
showing a fixed light.

* Pictou Roads and Harbour, as described by Mr. George Peacock, matter ol 11. M.S. Andromache ,
1839.

148

GUT OF CANSO

" In order to proceed in tlie i)iu;ht, with a vessel of easy draught, bring the light to I>enr
W. ) N. and steer for it until within about 60 fathoms off it, and then haul round it gradu-
ally, at about that distance, not going into less than 3 fathoms.

" Pictou appears to me to be a harbour very easy of access, and very capacious. The
roadslfxd is certainly one of the best in the world, the bottom of clay and mud. There is
anchorage un<ler Pictou Islan«l, but it is by no means to bo recommended. This island
may be seen from a ship's deck 4 or ^i leaijues off"; a reef extends from its cast end about a
mile, and from its west end more than half channel over. Tlie three-fathom bank, marked
in some charts, it is said does not exisl." — Nautical Magatine, 1839, p. 146.

In fine settled weather here are land and sea breezes. The tide runs at the rate of two
knots. Kvery article of provision was found very cheap : butler, Id. to Od. the lb. ; sheep,
15s. ; eggs, 5rf. the dozen. Fish very scarce, but lobsters in tibundance.

MlillKJOMlSlI, which is an excellent bar-harbour, lies 7 miles to the E.S.E. of the
entrance of Pictou ; the merchants of which place have ponds here, for the reception of
limber, with whicls a number of ships arc annually laden.

To sail in for this place, bring the east end of Pictou Island nearly north, and keep it so
until off the harbour's mouth, where you may either obtain a pilot, or anchor in 4 fathoms.
A stranger ^sll()uld not venture to enter the harbour without a pilot, as a ledge stretches off
from either side. There is a depth of 14 feet on the bar at low water, and the vertical rise
of tide is about 8 feet. The depth within is from 4 to 7 fathoms, soft mud.

7%<?/r is no harbour between Merif^oinish and Cape St. Georpc ; but the coast is clear,
high, arid bold, and vessels may sail along it in safety, at the (listance of a mile. As a
place of refuge for small vessels in distress, there is a new pier on the coast, at 7 leagues
to the eastward of Pictou, and at the indent formed by the rock called the IIahn. There
is good anchorage under (.'ape St. (leorge, in from 10 to 7 fathoms, sheltered from west-
erly winds.

ANTIGONISII.— The entrance of the llarbt.ur of ANriuoNisn lies 10 miles to the S.
by NV. from (!aj)e St. Cleorge. Here small vessels loud limber and gypsum, or plaster, of
which there is anundance in the neighbouihoud ; but the harbour is so shoal that even these
complete their cargoes without the bay, allliouyh the «n,horage is not safe. The rivers
which fall into this harbour run through many miles of tine land, and the population is
considerable.

At PoMKET Island, C miles eastward from Antigonish, ships of any size may load iii
safety. In sailing in, when ftom the northward, leave the island on the starboard side,
keeping close to a rock, which appears .'i or 6 feel above water. This rock is sleep-to, and
lies oft" the east end of the island. Wilhoul it, at the distance of three-quarters of a mile,
lie several (sunken ledges, which are dangerous. After passing the rock, a bay will open
on the starboard side, which you stand into, till you are shut in with the island, where there
is anchorage in 3| fathoms of water, at about half a mile from the island.

AUHUSIIEE, which lies between Cape .lack and the Gut of Canso, is a small harbour,
occupied by an industrious and thriving people. Here a number of small vessels have been
built, cairying t'ro.n 1.'') to 50 tons. A rocky ledge extends without the harbour, in a north-
westerly direction, as shown on the ('hail.

lielu'cen Cape St. Cicorge and the Gut of Canso, in fine weather, the winds draw from
the southward and south-eastward ; and from the cape, which is high, to Pictou, from the
S.W. ; but, in general, near the cape, the winds are very variable. Oft' the cape, at about
a quarter of a jnilo to the N.E. the pilots say that there is a ledge of sunken rocks, which
extends to the northward.

IFeatward of CapL St. George, and hence to Pictou I.slatid, sheep and other stock are the
same as at Pictou. Water cannot always be procured, as the springs dry up occasionally.

The GUT oi CANSO to INHABITANT RAY.

The S(VT of CANSO forms the best passage for ships bound to and from Prince
J'ldward Islaiid and other places in llie Gulf of St. Lawrence. It is shoiter, and has the
advantage of anchorage in case of contrary winds or bad weather. Its length is about four
leagues, and b.'cu.lih more than three-(iuariers of a mile. The east side is low, with beaches,
but the west shore is mostly high and rocky ; and that part of it called (.'ape Porcupine is

ht to l)«ar
it gradu-

)ii9. The
There is
'his island
id about a
k, marked

\le of two
b. ; sheep,

;.K. of the
jceptiou of

1 keep it so

4 fathoms.

itretclies oft'

vertical rise

ast is clear,
nilc. As u
at 7 leagues
,{N. There
from west-

les to the S.
r piaster, of
it even these
I The rivers
opuhuion is

nay load in
rboard side,
ttu'p-to, and
of a mile,
»y will open
where there

iikll harbour,
la have been
in a north-
draw from
u, from the
|ie, at about
jcks, which

lock are the
:asionally.

from Prince

tnd has the

about four

Ith beaches,

forcupine is

TO INllAUITANT BAY.

remarkably so. The deepest water is on the western shore ; but both shores are bold-to,
and sound, excepting a sunken rocky which lies near a cable's length from the eastern shore,
and about midway between the southern entrance of the (Jut and Ship Harbour, and two
other rocks under-menlionetl.* MUt Creek, (ii/psuin or Plaster Cove, I'enm Creek, Ship
llfirljour, llotlaiui Cove, or Pilot lltirhnur, and Kddi/ Cove, afford excelltiit anchorage, in
a moderate depth, out of the sticaiu of the tide, which generally sets in from the southward,
but is very irregular, being intluenced by the winds. After strong north-west winds, which
happen daily during the fall of the year, the water \r, the Culf of St. Lawrence is rendered
low, which causes the current to run northward ihrojgh the Gut, at the rate uf 4 or 5 knots,
and the contrary happens after southerly winds.

The time of high water in the Gut is h. 30 in. ; but the tide in the midtlle runs strongly
up and down, at least ati hour after high and low water: again, in or after strong winds
the currents appear as if not influenced by the tide, but run sometimes at the rale of
3 to 4 knots.

Cape St. GKoaor, which is a remarkable promoniory, lies at the distance of lo.J leagues
to the eastward of I'ictou Harbour ; and a course of 6 leagues, thence to the south-eastward,
will lead to the entrance of the Gut, whence you may run along the Hreton shore. It is to
be observed, that there is a ledge of rocks, in the ofting, between Aubushee and the (lut,
already noticed ; some of these are nearly dry at low water, and nearly in the direct course
fov the Gut ; they mast, of course, bo carefully avoided.

A lighthouse, on the western side of the northern end of the Gut, was established in
10t'2, in lat. 4.'i° 4'2', and long. Gl° '27'. The tower, painted white, stards at 120 yards
from the shore, and exhibits a fired light, at 115 feet above the level of the sea. It may
be seen from the greater part of the Hay of St. George, and the shores of Itrotun island, as
far as Jestico or Port Hood.

There is good anchorage umler the lighthouse, with the wind off the land.

Opposite Mill Creek, at the upper end of the Gut, on the Nova Scotia side, you may
stop tide, or lie windbound, if it does not overblow. Keep the creek open, and come to
anchor in or 10 fathomi?, within a cable's length of the steep rocks, on the south side of
the creek. The best water is with the creek's mouth ojtcn. It will be necessary to carry a
hawser on shore to the rocks, to steady the ship, as the tide here runs in eddies. You may
obtain fresh water from the cieek at low water.

I'pDH interiiifi the (itit, there will be seen on the larboard hand, a red house, on a point
called Utile Ashe's Point, o.T which, at nearly a calle's length from shore, there is a sunken
rock, which may be readily distinguished by tlie eddy of the tide. >Vilhiii this point, on
the S. K , is (ii/psum or Plaster Cove, where shipping frequently anchor.

When abreast of Gi/p:um or Plaster Cove, the remarkable headland on the western side,
named Cape Porcupine, will bear nearly S.W. To sail into the cove, keep nearly in the
middle; and, when in 10 faUioms, let go your anchor. You will find sufticient room for
swinging round, in 7 fathoms.

SHI I' HAUBOUIl, which lies half-way down the Gut, on the eastern side, is a good
harbour for merchant-shipping. It is, however, more particularly useful to Uiose sailing
northward, being a good outlet. It is a very proper place for ships of 16 feet draught. If
bound in, from the southward, give the starboard side a berth of a cable's length, (it being
Hat,) and run in until you shut the north entrance of the (iut, and come to anchor in 4 or
!> fathoms, soft bottom ; where you may wood on the Breton side, and water on the opposite
shore, at \'enus' (.'reck ; the larboard side of this harbour is bolder-to than the starboard
side, and deepest water. Without the harbour, one-third fiom the Breton side, you may
anchor in 9, 10, to 13 fathoms, loose ground, in the strength of the tide. The Hanger
anchored in 10 fathoms, with the church on the hill bearing K. by S., and the south point
of the harbour south, about one mile offshore.

Snu's BOUND TuitoiGii Till: Gl't, from the northward, may proceed through it with

• See the particulur Chart of the (Jut of Canso, on the large Chart of the Gulf of .St Lawrence

In this Chart we iiave inserted two rocks in the (Jul of Canso, whiih hatl not previously Iteeii
laid down ill any ch;ut. They have been inuertcd on the autiiority of Cuptaiu (iourgi Dixon, of
London. The hrst lies near the western side of (iypsiiin Cove, at tlie (listaiice of nliout (>'> fatiiotns
fro.o the sliore ; the otlicr lieii at ultout 100 fathoms wit! out Bear Inland, ut the S.C. end of Mie Out.
On c»ch rock the dejilh of wntcr is from C to 8 feet only.

150

INHABITANT BAY.

!';

•afcty, by keepinjj nearly in the mid-channel, there being no danger until they arrive off the
south point called tlddi/ Point ; but, from this point extends a long spit of sand, with large
round stones, which must be left on the starboard side, at the distance of half a mile from
what may be seen above water. The race of the tide will serve to guide you from it.

Having passed the spit of Gddy Point, you may steer to the S.S.E, until abreast of an
island which a|>pears covered with green spruce-trees having red buik. Ilonce you proceed
to sea, accordnig to the Charts.

Be cautious of running in the direction of a dangerous steep rock, called the Cerberus
Uocl;, with only 10 feet of water over it, and on which the sea breaks with a wind. This
rock lies with V'erte or (ireeii Island in a line with Cape lloagiiis, or Iron Cape, on the Isle
of Madame, at the distance of about 4^ miles friMU that island.

At the entrnnce of the Gut, within a mile of Kddy Point, there is a middle ground of
7 to 12 fathoms, on which ships may stop a tide in moderate weather. To the westward
of this ground there is a de|)th of Iti fatlionis, and to the eastward of it 20 to '25 fathoms.
With the wind inclining from the southward, steer in nearly west, ".nd keep the lead going,
until you shoalen to 1 1 fathoms, when you may let i,'0 your anchor.

Oypsum or IMaster Cove, is so called from its valual)h' (piarry of gypsum, which appears
to be exhaustless. The anchorage at the mouth of this cove has from 10 to 14 fathoms;
bottom of sofl mud. Ciipe Porcupine, opposite to this cove, is .'502 feet in height, and this
is the narrowest part of the strait. On the banks of the (iut, in general, the hills rise in
easy acclivities, which present settlements, on the whole range of the shore.

ZZfKABZTANT BAT| &c. — Tho«o who wish to anchor in Inhabitant P«ay or
Harbour, may bring the farm that is opposite to Hear Head • open, Hear Head bearing
VV.S.W. This mark will lead you clear, and to the southward, of the Long Ledge, f and
in the mid-chaime! between it and the steep rocks on the cast or opposite shore : at the
same time, take your soundings from the Long Ledge, or north shore, all the way till you
arrive at Flat I'uint ; then keep in mid-channel between Plat Point and the island opposite,
from the N.P,. side of which runs off a spit or ledge of rocks, at the distance of a cable and
a half's length ; then port your helm, and run under island I'oint, and come-to in 5
fathoms, muddy bottom. Up the river Trent are plenty of salmon, in the season, and there
you may find wood and water.

N. B. The leailing mark to clear the steep rocks of Steep Point is, tn bring the peninsula
in a line ever the point of Turbalton Head, bearing S. or S, ^ K. until you open the island
to the noithward of Island Point ; then haul up for the outer harbour, and come-to in 10
or 12 fathoms, muddy bottom,

T/iose U'/io arc bound up the (iut of' Canto, and taken short by a N. or .\'.W. wind, at
the south end of the (Jut, and who are desirous of good and safe anchorage in 10 to 12
fathoms of water, may come-to on the north side of hear Island ; but should it blow hard,
to a gale of wind, down the Uut, this anchorage is ni,.^ altogether so secure as a careful
nuister or pilot would wish. You must then leave the road of Bear Island, ac-i sail round
the south end of Bear Point, giving a berth to the spit that runs otf it, of 3 cables' h-ngth,
and haul round to the N.L. into !Sea-Coal Bay, urtd come to anchor in 4, 5, or G fathoms,
sandy and muddy bottom.

Marks for am boring, \li. bring Bear Head in a line over Plat Head, bearing W.S.W.,
or W. by S..,and Caritun Cliffs to bear N. by P. or N. in .5 or (J fathoms, and you will have
a good berth, sheltered from the W.N.W . and N. winds. Here is sullicienl room to moor
ten or twelve sail of any ships of war, of the sixth to the third rate.

Shipt corning down the (iut of Canso. whiih may liave reached past Fddy i'oint, or as
far as Cape Argos, and caught with a S.P. to a S.S.W. wind, and caniKjt hoUiriheir own by
beating to windward, may bear up and come to anchor in Turbalton Bay, under Turbalton
Head, where they may ride safely in from .'i, 0, or 7 fathoms of water, muddy bottom.
The marks for anchoring in Turbalton Bay are, to biiiig the peninsula point in a line over
Turbalton Head, bearing 8. or S. J W.; or a point of land inland, a lilUe up in the
country, from Cape Argos shore, with pine-trees on it, ODeii to the eastward of the Red

pine-

opei

* Uenr Head is the louth-cuiiti'riuiuisit part ul'tlii' (hit.

t Sec the ChartK of Inhabitant Uny uiul Ilurbour, uml of liictun Island, published by the Pro-
prietor of the prrsciil work.

Tive off the
, with large
1 mile from
urn it.

reasl of an
ou proceed

ic Cerberus
viiul. This
, on the Isle

le ground of
le westward
25 fathoms.
I lead going,

lich appears
14 fathoms;
^ht, and this
! hills rise in

itanl liay or
lead bearing
Ledge, t and
here : at the
way till you
iiid opposite,
r a cable and
ome-to in 5
)n, and there

he peninsula
;n the island
inic-to in 10

[W. wind, at
Hi 11) to 12
il blow hard,
liis a careful
■J ^sail round
Ibles' li-nglh,
|r G fathoms,

[ig W.S.W.,
)u will have
loni to moor

I'oint, or as
Ihi'ir own by
}r Turballon
Idy bottom,
a line over
up in the
uf the Ued

by llie Pro-

PRINCK FDM'ARD ISLAND.

1.51

■

Head ; or the said point of land with pine-trees on it, over the pitch or point of Turbalton
Head ; you are then sheltered by the rocks or spit that runs from Turbalton Head, in 4 to
5 and (3 fathoms of water, and will ride very saftly on good holding ground. |{ut, should
the wind shift to the S.W. or N.W., you must take up your anchor, and beat out of the
bay into Chedabucto \Uy, and proceed on your passage to the southward. Should the
wind over-blow, atSAV., soas to prevent your beating to windward into (.'hedabucto Hay,
you may come to an anchor in Eddy (Jove, bringing the low part of luldy Point to bear
S.S.K. or S. by E., in 5, 0, or 7 fathoms of water, taking care to give the ship sutKcient
cable, lest you drive off the bank into deep water, from 15 to 20 fathoms.

TIDES ON THK SOUTH SH)E oi the GULF of ST. LAWRENCE.

The tide rushes with great rapidity through the Gut of (^anso : and, in the narrowest
part of the Gut, or at Cape Porcupine, it sehlom runs at a slower rate than 4 or 5 miles in
an hour. Here it flows, on the full and change, at 'J\ h.

Along shore, past Aubuslico and Anligonish, it sets toward Cape St. George; and,
rounding that cape, proceeds thence in a north-westerly direction. On the south shore of
Nortl)umberland iitrait, the time of flowing, on the full and change, is from 7 to 8 h. The
perpendicular rise is from 3 to 7 or 8 feet.

The tides here are very materially varied by the winds ; and it has been found that, at
times, the stream of the Gut of Canso has continued to run one way for many succes-
sive days.

II.— PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND.

This island is a distinct government, though subordinate to iIk; Hrilish commander-in-
chief in North America. It is well settled, and possesses a good soil, lit for all general
pui|)Oses. The island is exempted from fog, while the surrounding coasts of Nova Scotia,
breton Island, and New Brunswick, are frequently covered with it. Indeed it presents a
striking contrast. The first appearance of the isl.mfl is like that of a largo forest rising
from tiie sci, and its aspect on approaching nearer is beautiful. The red clifl's, which sur-
round groat part of the coast, then appear : these are not hi«;li. The lands, excepting tbe
farms, which are cleared, are covered with lofty trees, and the sand-hills, which border a
considerable part of the north side, are covered with a high strong gra«s, mixed with a kind
of pea or vetch, which makes excellent hay. 'I'lie climate is generally healthy and tem-
perate, and not subject to the s-.dvlen chang<s of weather exj)erienced in England. The
winter here sets in about the middle of December, and continues until April ; during which
period it is colder thin in iMigland ; generally a steady frost, with fVcqnent snow-falls, but
not so severe a- to prevent the exertions of the inhabitants in their various employments.
The weather is generally serene, and the sky clear. In April, the ice breaks up, the spring
opens, the trees blossom, and vegetation is in great forwardness. In May, the face of the
country presents a delightful aspect. Vegetation is so exceedingly quick, that, in .luly,

[)eijs, &c. are gathered which were sown in the preceding month. The country is generally
evel, or in rising slopes, and abounds wiUi springs of fine water, and groves of trees, which
produce great <iuantitics of excellent timber, &c. The greater part of the inhabitants are
employed in farming and fishing. Charlotte Town, situate between York and Hillsborough
Rivers, on the southern side of the island, is the seal of government.

Although surrounded by Canada, Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, &c., the climate of this
island is, by many degrees, more mild and favourable than that of either of those colonies.
The winter is two months ;>horter in duiaiion, and the frosts much less severe, with a con-
siderably less fall of snow. Fevers and other diseases of the United Slates are unknown
licre. The populatioTi of the island, acconling to the census of 1027, was 30,000; in
1833, it was 32,319; and in 1811, 47,034.

The coast forms numerous harbours, many of which are, however, fit for small ve8.sels
only. The principal loading ports ai*?, on the eastern side, Cdnll^un Hm/, or the Three
Uivcrx, and Murriii/ liarhour ; on the S.E., Hillshorou^fi /wii/ and liiicr ; Ikdequc liay
on the southern iide ; Wichmond limj and llolluiid Harbour m the north.

CARDIGAN RaY, or the Three Rivers, lies between Rroughton Island and Panmure
Island; it is the common entrance to three rivers; namely, Cardigan River, Rrudenell
River, and Montague River. In the former there are from 7 to 3 fatl:om:i of water, and in
the others from 4 to 2 fathoms. (Jeorgc Toujh viands on a peninsula between the rivem

152

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND.

Brodenell and Cardigan. In these places many largo ships have loaded timber. There
is anchorage without, in Cardigan Bay, in from 10 to 15 fathoms, where a pilot may be
obtained.

MURRAY HARBOUR lies close to the north-westward of Boar Cape; and the
entrance is narrow and slioal, difficult of access, and not having more than 12 feet of water.
But small ships have frtHpiently loaded here.

Vessels from the eastward, and bound to TiinEE Rivf.rs or Muuray IlAunorn, must
avoid coming too near the east point, from which a rid;;o of sunken rocks stretches off"
about a mile ; the ground of the eastern coast is clear between the east point and the Wood
Islands, and there is a depth of 3 fathoms of water all the way, near the shore, and good
anchorage.

UlLLSnOROUCiH RAY is the finest bay in the island, and the River Hillsborough is
a fine navigable river; but timber here is not plentiful. Before Charlotte Town, in this
river, there is j;oo(l aiichoraije in from 6 to 9 fathoms. Lobsters and oysters are found in
abundance in the bay.

Vessels from the eastward, when bound to Hillsborough Ray, and passing Piclou Island,
must cautiously avoid the rock of 10 feet, which lies to the northward of Caribou P(»int,
(see page 14G,) and 5 miles N.W. J N. from the west end of the Island : at the same time,
also, they must er)ually avoid the Indian Itoclis, which lie off the shore of Prince Edward
Island : the latter are covered at high water, and are very dangerous in the night.

At about three miles to the N.W. of the Indian Rocks is a shoal, on which H.M. sloop
Riflemnn grounded, 23d of June, 1826. The bearinu;s taken at anchor in 7 fathoms, at 2J
or 3 cables' length S S W. from the spot on which the vessel groundc.l, were, Point Prim
N.N.W. \ W.; South Woody Island K.S.E. \ K. ; a point (supposed Point Jenyns,)
N. i W. ; a merchant brig on shore on the Indian Rocks, S.K.

The least water found upon the shoal was 8 feet, at about half a cable's length to the
northward of where the Ilifleman grounded. It appears to be a rocky shoal, of consider-
able extent, two miles from the nearest shore, that of Helle Creek.

PICTOU to CHARLOTTE TOWN.— From the harbour of Pictou, when bound to
f 'liarlotte Town, H.M. sloop Uuvp;er passed between IMctou Island and Caribou Point,
and had from 31 to 4 fathoms, hard bottom, in approaching Point Prim : the point is low,
and forms the eastern side of the entrance of Hillsborough Bay. (Jive it a berth of nearly
three miles before you haul to the northward for Charlotte Town, or for Governor's Island
on the N.E. Prom tiie S.W. side of Governor's Island, a long spit of hard ground extends
two miles. The long mark for hauling to the N.N.E. is a tower on the western part of
Charlotte town, open to the westward of the blockhouse tower, on the larboard side of
the entrance to the harbour, and on which signals are made to the town, signifying vessels
in the ofiinti

In the channel up, the Ranger had from 5 to 7 fathoms; and on approaching the block-
house, 10 to Vi fathoms, clay bottom.

From the starboard point of the entrance extends a sandy spit, the way to clear winch is
to run to the northward till .IiC signal-statf on the fort, (which is at the west end of the
town,) is on with the church-steeple; you will then have from 8 to 10 fathoms, to the
anchoraj^e. On steering for tlie town, keep rather near the larboard shore.

The Ranger anchored in 10 fathoms, at about 50 fathoms from the town, with the flag-
stafl'at the fort N. by W. \ W., and the church-steeple N. i E. Here it is high water, on
the full and change, at IC h. The rise is about 8 feet.

At C harlotle Town, o/i Satiinlays, is an excellent market, where the necessaries of life
are exceedingly cheap. \\ heat is shipped at 5s. the bushel ; meat from 3(/. to 'i\d. per lb. ;
butter Id. to 8</. per lb.; sheep, 12s. to 15s. each; eggs, 15f/. per dozen; all currency.
Fish are very scarce, but oysters in abundance, an<l very good.

RKDEQUE BAY, which lies between Cape l-Igmont and Carleton Point, has good
anchoring ground in from 6 to 8 fathoms. The harbour will admit ships of 400 tons, but
the channel is narrow, crooked, and lefpiires a pilot. It is the chief port .""or loading
timber : but the water freezes much sooner than at Pictou, or the harbours on the Nova
Scotian coast.

Between Capf, E(;mont and Wi:st Capk, in Halifax or Egmont Bay, there is good
anchorage with northerly and easterly winds, in G or 8 fathoms.

IP. There
ot may be

; and the
;t of water.

joun, must
[retclies ofl'
I the Wood
, and good

shorough is
wu, in tliis
ic found in

ctou Island,
ibou P«»int,
same time,
ice Edward
ht.

Il.M. sloop

horns, at 2^

PoinJ Prim

int Jenyns,)

;ngth to the
of consider-

3n bound to

ribou Point,

loiiit is low,

"rlii of nearly

nor's Island

iind extends

tern part of

liard side of

ying vessels

the block-

?.M vvhicb is
end of tlie
loms, to the

lith the flap-
ll) water, on

Inries of life
\}^d. per lb. ;
currency.

|, has good

tons, but

Lor loading

|i the Nova

Ire

is good

IIARBOUIIS IN PIIINCK EDWARD ISLAND.

153

WKST CAPE.— About the West Cape of ihe Isfand a hard sand-hank, of 10 feet water,
extends to the distance of three miles from the cape. If we lake an extent of three miles
with the compasses, and describe a circle from Cape Wt-st, hs a centre, this will give the
shape and extent of the bank very nearly. There is a swash or chaimel within it for small
vessels, close in shore.

NOitTlI SIDE of the ISLAND. — At the east point there is a reef extend iii'^; two miles
from the land, and which should not be approached in the night nearer than to the (le|)th
of 17 or 18 fathoms. At a league to the southward of it, and parallel with the shore, is a
shoal of two fathoms, named frrifiht^a limik. In the passage between it and tlic land,
which is half a league broad, are 6 and 8 fathoms.

All the Inlets on the north side of the island have bars at their entrance, with from 1 \ to
3 fathoms over them, and are not to be attempted by strangers without a pilot.

Those going through the Strait of Northumberland, if bound to IIolianp IIaruoor, or
any port on the north side, must be careful to give the North Cape of the Island a good
berth, as the sunken rocks stretch off full two miles. All the rest of the coast of t..c north
side of the island is perfectly clear of foul ground, to within a quarter of a mile of the shore,
and there is good anchorage as near the shore, in 3 fatiioms of water.

The only harbours on the north side of the island, for ships of large burthen, i:re Holland
IIakbour and Richmond Hay; and off these harbours the sand-banks, which form the
bars, run off more than a mile from the shore.

Ships from the Eastward, bound to harbours on the NoiiTii Sidp, if the wind be
favourable, should prefer sailing down by the north coast to going through the Strait of
Northumberland ; not only on account of sea-room, but because (he most prevailing winds
are from theS.W. They may run down the coast, till they approach Richmond Pay, to
within a mile of the shore.

St. PETER'S is the first harbour on the north side, when coming from the eastward; it
is fit for small vessels only. The bar runs out about a quarter of a mile.

The next is Tracadie or BEDFonn Rav; this has about 8 or 10 feet of water on the
bar, which extends outward Haifa mile.

RASTICO or Harris Bay is very shallow on the bar, and calculated to admit fishery
schooners only. The bar stretches off nearly half u mile.

New London or Grenville Bay has about 8 or 10 foet of water, but the bar is very diffi-
cult. The latter exlenils off nearly half a mile.

RICHMOND BAY, or Malpix, is a spacious harbour; has about 17 or Irt feet upon
the bur. The sands which form the bar extend more than a mile off Ihe I ;irbour. The
shoals on each side are generally discernible from the swell on them, and the course in and
out is East and West. On a vessel's anchoring off the bar a pilot will come off.

There are two entrances into the bay ; between them is Fishery Island. The eastern is
the only channel by which a vessel of burthen can enter, the we.^lern channel being very
shallow and intricate.

Vessels usually complete their lading M r.bout a mile within Fishery island, bu* a con-
siderable current runs there ; rafts of !■ -lOer frequently break adrift in l)losvin<4 weather;
and, on the ebb-tide, '.re frequently carried to sea, when a great par» is lost. The anchor-
age is good, and vessels lie in perfect safety.

HOLLAND HARBOUR, or Cascumppc, is the westernmost harbour on Ihe north r^idc.
Here the sands form a bar as at Richmond Bay, and run off about a mile and a hal!'. The
harbour is easily known by the sand-hills which extend along the coast. At about hall'
way between the entrance of Richmond Bay and Holland Harbour, is one sand-hill, near
Conway Inlet, much higher than the rest. Holland Bay may be known by its being al the
west end of all the range of sand-hills. There is good anchorage close to tlte bar in from
5 to 8 fathoms.

There is a depth of 18 feet of water on the Bar, and it is not difficult for a strarifier lo
run -1 with a snip not drawing more than 12 feet of water. There being two leading-
marks, painted white, bearing W. by N. by compass, a vessel of Uiis draft, l)y keeping the
two marks in one, with a leading wind, may run in with perfect safely.

But, as diese marks will carry a vessel over the south tail of die northern santl, vessels
drawing more than 12 feet should not venture without a pilot. Tli ic is a buoy on the end

■ 3

\:)4>

nUETOM ISLAM),

of the soutli sand; bctwopn that and the tail of the north shoal there is Ifl feet of water.
Vessels eiilrriiii; the jiort, if drawing more than \2 feet of water, should not btill^ tho inark»
in one till they arc within the bay. The soundiof^s of the harbour are regular, and the
ground clear. ISIiips, on comin;^ to anchor off the bar, will immediately be attended
by a pilot.

Theie is slinalfr water betwoen the outer and inrur harbour, on which is about 14 feet
of w.ittr in common tides. Ves'^^ols geneiiilly load to I :j feet in the inner harbour, and
complete their cargoes in the outer one. In the former, they lie alonpside a wharf «t
Mill's Town, in 4 fathoms of water, where they lie without any current, as in a tl ck.
In the outer harbour the spring-tidu runs strongly, but the water is smooth, the sea bt ing
broken off by tiie bar,

lloiiAMt llAitiiocii is the most convenient port in the island for loading timber, at
which theio is a very lari^e cpianlity; also a .>iuw-mill, for cutliii;^ plank and board.

The ('I'lillKNTS around the island are very irregular, fre<|ueiitly running many days
along the north coast, from east to west, and at other limes fiom west to cast.

The TIDES, also, in the north-side ports, are irregular, excepting spring-tides. These
sometimes keep flowin.; for I'orty-eight hours, and at other times not more than three.
In common tides, the water seldom rises more than two feet; in spring-tides, (except in
strong winds from the northward and eastward,) not more than five feet.

III. nilKTON ISLAND, with ClIKDAfU'CTO BAY.

BRSTOXT ZSIjAND* commonly called the Inland of Capf. BnrTON, lies be-
tween the parallels of 45° 34' and J?'^ .i', and bttween the meridians of jO° JO' and
61° :]b'' Its shire town and capital is S\ '».\EV, a free port on the N.I', si'uale on a
harbour of the same name. The coun.-^ of justice and public offices are kept here, and
here, also, the principal officers cl tlte i>Jand reside. It contains about sixty houses,
besides a government house, ,(ito<!, aixi barracks; likewise episcopal, Roman catholic,
and (lisseiiiing, churciies. Tl'.,- ii'<H;ts aic regularly laid out, the lutuses tolerably good,
and the grouruls in the viciin!)' -.iltivaicd with some taste; so that, on the whole, it
presents a |)!eas!Mg appearanC' . '.V^- j-vpulati-^'i exceeds oOO.

Tho harbour is one of the ' ^ost cu^ii- ;ou8 and secure in the provinces; it in iwo miles
wide at its entrance, four miies nbov(! which it diverges into two extensive arm.-', upon one
of whu li, al)out seven miles from the sea, the town is built on a peninsuia, aO'ording
abundant suitable situations for wharfs, dockyards, &c. The surrounding country is one
of the finest agricultural tracts in the island : the advantages for carrying on the fishery are
excellent. The principal coal-works are carried on in the neighbourhood, where useful
timber abounds.

In the winter season, when the weather is mild, the S.E., N.E., and N.W. coasts of
Dreton Island abound with all sorts offish.

The climate of Breton Island is verv similar to that of Nova Scotia, and is considered
by the inhabitants to be quite as conducive to health and favourable to agricultural puisuits
as that of any of the British American pt' vinces : but it is allowed that it i^ somewhat * older
in winter and hotter in summer, more irregular, and ther-.-foie less pleasant than the neigh-
bouring peninsula. The natural productions are, in n';', respects, similar to those of Nova
Scotia. The amount of population is about 20,000.

Of the interior of the Lsland, like Newfoundland, but little is known.

Too much caution cannot be exercised when ;.pproaching this isia; ;.■, frori -xny direction.
The currents set alternately about Cape North according to the w.ric. s at sea, both from
the westward and eastward, and their effect.s about the Isle of St. Vi,l have already c-en
noticed.

In the description of the Gut of Canso, already given, ("page 14R,) we have noticed the
general appearance of its coasts. On proceeding toward this strait, it should be remarked
that the Isles of Canso, on the Nova Scolian side, are surrounded with many low white
rocks and breakers. The south shore of Chedabucto Bay is iron-bound and steep-to; its
north shore is of red cliffs and beaches.

Of the Gut of Canso, from the lUJiithern entrance northward, the western shore, through-
out, is high, rocky, and steep; th'3 tislern shore low, with beaches. From the north end

of water.

ho marks

, and lli«

auended

(it 14 feet
l)()ui, and

wharf «t
u a il t-'k.

sea bting

timber, at

many days

ss. These
han tliree.
(except ill

iN, lies be-
0° to' and
n.'uute on a
)l here, and
xly houses,
an catholic,
•rably good,
^e whole, it

•iwo miles

ujion one

1, adording

intry is one

tishciy are

lere useful

V . coasts of

considered
iral puisuits
wliat ' older
1 the nei^h-
se of Nova

y direction.

both from

Iready ^'X-n

[noticed tlie
|e remarked
low wliitc
2ep-to ; 1(3

|e, through-
north end

WITH CIIEDAUUCTO IJAV.

\55

of the (Jut, the e.istorn shore to Jcstico, or /'or/ //»(>(/, is dislinifuished by high, rocky, red
chfTs. The opposite shore has several remarkable cliH's of j^ypsum, or plaster, which appear
extremely white. CaI'I. St. Ukouoi:, the western extremity of St. (teori?e's Hay, in Nova
Scotia, is iron-bound and very hiijh, its summit beint; 421) feet above the level of the sea.

JKSTICO, or Pout lloon, situate on the western side of llrelon Island, is a safe harbour
for frigates with any wind, but particularly from the S.W. to S.S.H. round by the norlh-
wnrd : the anchorage is in from 4 to 5 fathoms, mud and sandy bottom : here you may wood
and water. The leauini;-mark going in is, (^ipe Linzec on with the highest sand-hills thai
are on the N.N.I*;. side of the beach, bearing N. by H.or N.N.lv : these kept ni a line will
lead you clear of Spithead, in 4 to 6 fithonis. On the opposite shore is a hmg and broad
tliit, stretching from the shore thiee-quarters of a mile, called the Ihnii, to vvhi< h come no
nearer than in 4 fathoms. Cod-fish is dried on this beach; and, in the season, June and
July, is a good herring fishery. (See the CJIiart of the harbour, by Mr. Biiikhouse.)

On the 31st July, IHIU, II. IM. Sliip Hunger anchored here; and Mr. Dunsterville
describes tlie place as follows: " On the S.W. point of the enlraiue a bank of hard sand
commences, and extends out to a spit oil the tirst sauily covi; from the outer point, neaily
lialfa milf! from the shore, and is very si»ep ; I and .'i '..liioms close-to. On the oppos.'.j
shore, and half a mile wiihin, a long tongue of sand stretches out, which is nearly dry.
These spits completely shelter vessels from any winds ficm S.W . to S S. K. The anchorage
is in 6 fathoms, within the spits, muddy bottom.

" From the south point of Jm*/ an Corp Island, with a fair wind, steer east, passing about
half a mile to the southward of the S.W . point of tlip harbour ; and when it is |)erfectly open,
steer about north, or N. by K. for a break in the land, which is a low gravelly beach ; and
as yon approach the haibour the slio.ils aie yeiierally seen. In the faiiway you will have
from 7 to 7i fathoms; but, between the island iind the main the soundings art; uneven and
unsafe to pass through, unless surveyed. A bank, the lloinlic, with 10 feet thereon, extends
about tive miles from shore, at about two or three hagues to the southward of the harbour,
and !s in the fairway of ships bound for the (mm of C'iinso. II. W'. full and change about
ten o'clock. Tide not perceptible; rise 4 to G feet. The winds, when from the southward
through the Gut ofC'anso to Cape St. (Jeorue, generally are from S.S.W'. or S.W."

In Atigusl, 11)31, the Hanger, from hence, beat through the Out of Caiiso ; anchored at
the northern entfanco. on the starboard shore, in 12 fathoms, to the eastward of Cape Jack,
about a mile and a half olf shore. When it has not blown strong from any cpiarter, the tides
heie are regular, running nearly three knots an hour: tiood setting to the northward.
11. W. full and change, at about 8 h. 30 m. rise, (» feet.

From Jestico, the north-western coast of Iheton Island bears nearly straight, in a N.K.
by v.. direction towards Cape North, in lat. 47° 3', long, tio'^' 20' 20", a distance of idiovo
80 miles, ofl' which cai>o is the island of St. Paul, with its two lighthouses, as described on
page 86.

On the N.W. coast, all along from Cape Nottli to Cape Linzee, the land .>f the country
is very high, and in some phces falls gradually to llu- shore. On this side of the island
you may safely stand in to '.he distance of two leanue^ fiom shore, until you .tive off Just
an Corp or Henry Island, when you may stand within one mile of the shore. On this side
of Mrelon Island are several salmon-rivers.

South-westward of Cape North is Ashpt Harhonr, where vessels can Iind slieUer; and
the water is deeper along the coast, close in shore, as far as Cape Knsuini', than il is further
to the south.

ST. ANNK'S llARnolJR, situ.nte on the N.E. side of the island, was called by the
French, when in their possession, Poit Dauphin, in honour of the heir to the crown, and is
a very safe and spacious harbour. It has 1 ut a narrow entrance, and carries 41 fitliums at
low water, until yon join the beach. W hen m miil-chaimsl, you will h.ive 9 to lo ta'homs

and in the harbour from .5 to 10 fathoms, muildv botioin. On the not

th side the land is

very high, and ships of war may lie so near to the shore, tli.it a water-hose may reach the
fresh water, and a ship may be loaded in one day, Irom a cascade which runs from the top
of the rock. Tlie (Juernsey and Jersey nieu dry their fish on this beach, and it is a safe
retreat from the sea.*

See the Survey of the Harbour, t»y Mr. Kackhou.sc

ill

\56

(;HAND DUA8 DOK ENTRANCE.

The tnure parlkutttr Directions fur Ht.Anne'i Ilarbtrur, as given by Mr. Iluckliou»e, are
as follow: — After you have passed the Siboux or Hertford Isles, on the east snle of the
i-nlrancc, keep the soutli sliore on board, if the wind be to the S. E. ; and as you approach
r.issani' Point, brinf^ Cape Knsumf', or C Smoke, which lies to the northward, nearly on
Willi Ulack I'oiiit : steer with thoje marks in one, until you are nearly abreast of Passage
Point, olV which lies a sunken rock of 6 feet of wa>er, and opposite to whici) begin:, the spit
of St. Anne's Flat, and the narrowest part of the channel. Now keep a sn\all hummock up
in the country, nearest to the shelving high land to the westward of it; which hummock is
on the middle land from the water side, in a line over the h>hini;-hut, or fiiihing-stage,
erected on the beach: this will lead in the best water, until you enter the elbow part of the
beach. When advanced thus far in, keep the opening open, about the size of two gun-
poils, which niakes its appearance up the S.W. arm. This opening looks like two steep
cliHs, with the sky appearing between them, and will lead you between the beach and the
south shore, in mid-channel, through 9 and 10 fathoms, and past the beach-point, off Mhich
a 8|)it stretchta to tlic S.W. about two cables' length. Having passed this spit, come to
anchor in (>ither side uf the harbour in from 6 to 10 fathoms, muddy bottom, and sheltered
from all winds.

GHANI) bllAS D'Oll.— Tiie following Directions for the Navigation of the (Jreat
Channel of the Biias d'Oii, between Sidney Harbour and Port St.|Amie, have been written
by Mr. Thomas Kelly, a pilot of that place. They were obligingly communicated by Lieut,
.lames Moxon, U.N., \iV23, and we h„ve no doubt would be found very lUar and useful,
if accompanied by a chart of the river, containing the names tnenfioncii in the directions.
We beiievn that, at present, no such chart exists, and that, therefore, the names are alto-
gether 'Uiknown Co hydrography: for not or.e of them is to be found in Des Barres' or
olhei3. This deficiency may probably be obviated at a future and no distant time.

Lieut. Moxon says, that the Ghand Uras d'Oh has been lately frequented by timber
vessels, and is likely to be more so; and there being few, if any pilots, but the one men-
tioned in this paper, he submits this copy of his ditectioris, and shall enjoy great satisfaction
from finding (hut it proves useful. The directions are as follow :

Sailing Diurcrio.Ns for the (iiiANo Bkas d'Or E.sraAKCK. — "Ships from the soulli-
ward must give Point le Conic a berth of about two iriles, and steer f^iom thence for the
eastern end of the inside of JUrJ Island, unU\ you bring M^Kenzie Point and Carey's lieach
in one. Steer for tlie li/acli Hock Point, until you have Messrs. Dfijf'us's Store jusl open of
I'oint Noir; then steer for Goosehcrri/ i{('»(7«, until you bring a clearing on Duncan's Head
over M'Kenzie's Point. It is to be observed, that ships coming in with the tide of Hood
must keep Point Noir well aboard, to avoid the eddy and whirlpools on the noith side of
the Gut, which has various settings. You must then steer for Point June, to keep the fair
stream of tide ns far as the Roitnil Cove, where there is good anchorage in 7 or 8 fathoms,
good holding ground. When abreast of the Uound Cove, steer over for Duncan's Head;
when abreast of this Head, steer for Long lieach, until you bring a tall pine-tree on the
L'pper Seal Island in one with a notch or valley in the mountain. You will then steer for
the point of the Upper Seal Island, which will cany you clear of the shoals on the islands,
as also the South Shoal or Middle Ground. The marks for this shoal are a while rock in
the bank for the eastern end, and a while birch-tiee for the western end. When abreast of
the western end of this shoal you may keep the middle, there being no difKculty until you
come to Hed-Head. U bound to Kent Harbour, after doubling the Red- 1 lead, steer for a
remarkable red bank, covered with small bushes, until you bring Mr. Duff'us's House en-
iiiely open of the beach wliich is on the island: there is a depth of from 4 to 5 fathoms in
this harbour, and good holding ground.''

DiiiixTioNS /(»>• that AiiM of' the Lake called St. Patrick's Ciiannei, and up to
\N iiooKAMAc.ii. — " Ftom Red-Head you will steer well over for the DuLe of Kent Ltluudt
to avoid a mud shoal which runs otl" from M*Kai/'s Point. When :d)reast of the western
end of the Duke of Kent Island, steer for Wassabeck Head until abreast of Stony Island.
Then steer for ( 'ranberry Head, so as lo clear a shoal lying off from Wassabeck Head;
when abreast of t^ranberry Point, sleer well for the Bell Rock, lo avoid a shoal lying on the
south side of the channel ; when abreast of the Hell Uock, steer for (ireen Reach, observing
lo keep liifdilock River shut in until you are well up with Green Meach. You will then
steer for a beach on the soudi shore, until you cross ihe opening of the Narrows; you may
then sleer lhiou;.;h the Narrows, keeping the middle until you come to the western end,
when you must haul round the soulhern shore (beach), keeping the south shoie until abreast
of the Plaster CliflTs : you are then clear of all, and in the Whookamagh Lake."

Iiouye, arc
ide of tli«
approacli
nearly on
)f Paisage
vh the spit
niuiock up
ammock is
liiiiy-stage,
pari of the
f two guii-
two sleep
ich and the
;, off which
t, come to
id siieltered

• the (Jreat
leeii written
:d by Lieut,
and useful,
direct Ions.
les are alio-
s Barres' or
inie.

I by timber
e one men-
satisfaction

I the soutli-
lence for the
|/rt'»/'« lieac/t
jUst open of
lean's Head
lide of tlood
loith side of
ecp the fair
[• 8 fathoms,
{(Ill's llaid;
tree on the
en steer for
|the islands,
lite rock in
In abreast of
y until you
steer for a
llnusc en-
fathoms in

Uind vp to
lent hluvd,
|lie western
)ny Island.
Bck Head;
/inu; on the
I, observing
will then
1; you may
Istern end,
litil abreast

SYDNEY IIAKDOUR.

157

Or TUB Anciioraob throuoii tue Hras o'Or. — *' The flrst anchorage ia the Round
Cow, where you may anchor in 7 or H fathoms. You may anchor in 5 or 6 fathornii, in
the middle of the harbour, on u middle ground : the marks of which are, to brin({ the Tab/ts
Island a handspike's lentrth open of Uluck Rock Point, ami I'oint Jane bearing; N.W. On
the north side of the harbour there is good anchora^'e as far up :>» the Lower Seal Islands,
and to (he eastward of the Upper Seal Islands in 5 fathoms, and to the westward of the
same islands in 7 fathoms. There is no other place of anchorage from this to the IM^
Harbour, where you may anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms; from thence you may anchor at
any time."

Sf.ttino of the Tide in Okavd Dkas n'On.— " The first quarter flood sets from the
northward, dnectly over the shoal ; last (piarter VV.S.W., being dnectly through the channel,
and meeting with the tide conung over the shoal, sets toward the Black Point, which ucca-
siotis it to shoot across the (>iit, making a number of whirlpools and strong eddies on each
side of the channel, which slacks two or three times during the tide. The first quarter ebb
sets over the shoal to the northward ; last cpiarter directly through Uie channel. — N.B. The
tide of ebb is the fairest setting tide. The tide runs in until half-ebb, and out until half-flood,
in ri'gular tides; but the winds make a great alteration; N.K. winds making high tides, atid
iS.W. neaping them; also tides running out with S.W. winds until high water, and in until
low water with N.E. winds. Tides rise four feet, unless atlected by winds. High water
ten minutes past eight o'clock, full and change. Btarings by compass."

OBSLIIVATIONS.— '* Messrs. Duffus's Store is a fishing establishment. Mr. DuflTus's
fluuse is on Kent Island, formerly Mutton Island. The aforesaid Thomas Kelly piloted
the ship Pitt, of St. Kitt's, burthen near 400 tons, laden with timber, and drawing about
in feet of water, safely through the foregoing described channel from Kent Harbour."

The N.IC. Coast of Biir.TON Island, between Saitari Island and Cape Dauphin, is low;
but, from Cape Dauphin to Cape Knsume, or C.qie Smoke, it is high. Between Scalari
Island and the entrance of Port St. Anne, a vesstl may stand in- shore, to 15, 10, and 5,
fathoms, (clear water,) gradual soundings.

SYDNSY KARBOUBf formerly called Spanish Iliver, the entrance of which
lies 4 leagues to the S.K. of that of St. Anne, is another excellent harbour, having a safe
and secure entrance, with soundings regular from sea into .5 fathoms. This place al)ounds
with excellent coal. In going in, give the two points of the entrance a berth of two or three
cables' length, approaching no nearer than C or .5 fathoms. The soundings are regular to
each shore to 5 and 4 fathoms.

In the inner part of the entrance, Beach Point and Ledge, on die south side, are
steep-to; but Sydney Flats, on the opposite side, are regular to 4 Talhoms. U'hen past
the Beach Point, you may run up the river Dartmouth to the S.W. and come to anchor in
any depth you please, to 3 and U) fathoms, a fine muddy bottom. Here you may wood
and water, at the creek or spring, close to Governor Mac Cormick's house. The water is
lemarkiibly pure.

This harbour is capable of containing the whole navy of Great Britain. On Flat Point,
without the east side of the entrance, is a lighthouse, in latitufle 46° 18' 15", long.
tiO" 8' 30". It is an octagonal tower of wood, 90 feel in height, and painted vertically red
and white. It exhibits a brilliant Jived light, at 100 fed above the level of the sea, and
may be seen in clear weather at 5 leagues distance. Fish of various kinds, cod, haddock,
&c., are caught on the coast in great abundance. The tide in the harbour Hows at 9 h., and
rises 6 feet. The lighthouse was liist lighted on the 16th November, 1H32.

There is anchorage all along the coast, from Sydney to Canso, with the wind off the land;
and between Sydney and Scatari are some excellent bays, viz. Indian Bay, in which is the
harbour of Bridporl; Hare Bay, Cow Bay, ami Miray Bay. Cow Bay appears to be the
best, being well sheltered from all winds, excejiling N.F., which is right in. Ofl Cow Bay
are the Flint Isles, which are small, (juite level at the top, and the sides perpendicular;
when once seen, it would lie diflicuU to mistake them : there is a good channel between
them and the main, but they are very dangerous to seaward ; a reef extends from them to
the eastward a good niih;, and the sea always bieaks.* The coasl generally is low, and
nothing remarkable appears till you are close in. Scatari Island is dangerous; from the

• Thii reef is not marked in the .\dmiralty charts.

'•1
ml

\6H

LOUISnOUKG IIARnOUR.

eastward a rctf extends a mile and a lialf, and the sea always breaks. It requires great
allciitiun, us many vessels have been lost, from ilH nut being marked on the chart.x.

Tin. Kastern Kxtrf.mitv of the island, which is coniinoidy made by navijjators on
proceedinn from Kurope to Nova Scotia, appears on the sca-shorc, and to some diNlance up
the counlry, barren and rocky; and the fops of the hills, being much alike, have nothing
remarkable. The ruins of the town of I.ouislxnirg disliiiguish, however, that part of the
island on which they stand. The coast to the westward continues rocky on the shore, with
a few banks of red earth, which apjiear less barren.

SCATAIJI ISLAND. — (»;i ihc east point of this island, which is also the easternmost
land of Hreton Island, is a lifjhthousc, in lat. 46" 1' ;10, and Ion'.;. .'iO'' 40." The tower is
painted while, and exhibits a rrvolving light, at about 90 feet above the sea; visible one
minute, and invisible half a minute, alternately. A boat, to render assistance to vessels in
distress, and a gun to answer signals, when required.

LOUlSHOUUCi llAUHOril, a fine harbour, never frozen up, situate on the S.K. side
of Cape Breton, to the westward of Scatari Island, is easy of access; you may be soon iii,
and you miiy likewise be soon out, if you jileasc. He careful to avoid the Nag's Head, a
sunken rock on the starboard hand going in. The east part of the harbour is the safest.
The inhabitants now consist of a few fishermen only. Water is plentiful here, but wood
is scarce.

The Nag's Head Rock lies nearly one-third fron> the lighthouse point, and has no more
than 3 Itet on it at low water. The larboard side going in is the boldest.

There is a lighthouse on the eastern side of the entrance to the harbour of Louisbourg,
60 fathoms in-shore, lat. ■ir>° 54' 30". long. [>0^ 5.5' M". It stands on the site of the ohl
French lighthouse, (which was succeeded by a beacon,) and shows a fixed light, visible at
sea, from off Cape Portland to the south-eastern extremity of Cape Breton. The light-
house, (which is a square buiMing,) is painted white, with vertical black stripes on either
side, in order to dislingtiish it fiom other lighthouses, and to render it conspicuous when
the back land is covered with snow.

The following lemarks mny lie of service to vessels bound to Louisbourg: — When
coming from the eastward, they should bring the ligiit to bear W. by N., or more norllitrly,
before they run for it; unci from westward, N. by E. or more northerly, in order to clear
Green Island and the Ledges, which lie three-quarters of a mihj S. by W. \ \\ . fiom the
light.

When in the entrance of the harbour, whicli is near half a mile wide, with the light bear-
ing N.N.K., two or three cables' distance, steer W.N.W. for half a mile, to avoid the Nag's
ilead, a sjinken rock on the starboard side, bearing W, by N. from the light. The N.K.
arm of the harbour affords the safest ^ncboraoe. T!ie light o( Louisbourg bears about
S.S.VV. i W. from the revolving ligiit on Scatari bland.

From the entrance of Louisbourg to Guyon Isle, called also Portland Isle, the course is
S.VV, by VV., and the distance more than ;} leagues. Bctwef n lies the bay called Gabarus
itay, whi- 1> - various, and has a depth of from '20 to 7 fathoms. Off the south point of
this ' c Portland, lie the Cormorants, a number of islets and rocks^ which

are a "'u

r.r.AN. .. ii. Cmif, on the south const, is a remarkable clifT of whitish earth, in

latitude 4.'<" )Ul', and longitude GO" 20'. Four miles to the westward of it is a small
woody island, lying at the distance of two miles from sliore, and oft" the little harbour called
St. F.spniT. Without this island, at the distance of a mile and a half, on the S.E., is a
breaker with rocks, on which the lona was wrecked, in 183(5.

The land hence to the Isi.e of Madame is generally low; it presents several banks of
bright red earth, witii iteaches between them. Ai.iuon ('i.mf, on. the south side oflMadame,
is rocky, remarkably high, and precipitous. On the S.VV. side of this island is the settle-
ment called AuACiiAT or A nor ii kite.

ABACKAT, or AROCIl FTrE.— Arachal, a beautiful harbour, has been, for many
years past, the seat and centre of the fishinu eslablishnients of the .lerspy merchants, who
export their produce hence to the \N est Indus, tiie Mediierranean, and Brazil. It is a<jces-
sible at all times. The town is situate on the harbour, and is fast increasing in size, appear-
ance, and population. — liouchctte, Vol.ii. p. 79.

It has been but indifTerenlly surveyed. Ships bound to the south from the (Jut of ('anso.

ires great

gators on
>liinc(,' up
e notliing
ul of the
lore, with

islornmost
e tower is
isil)le one
vessels in

S.E. side
ic soon in,
s Head, a
ihe safest.

but wood

»3 no more

.ouislioure,
of tlie old

, visible at
The liRht-

s on either

uous when

•g :_\Vhen

L' northerly,

er to clear

fiom tlie

i>;ht henr-

ihe Naij's

The N.E.

ears about

le course is
1 (labarus
til point of
ckSj which

1 earth, in
is a small
)our called
S.E., is a

d banks of
Madame,
the settle-

CIIEDAHUCTO DAY. 1^9

if caujiht by a S.F.. wind, may, in this bay, find shelter by cominj? to nnohnr in the bay on
the south side, mi G or 7 fulhonis ; and, by soundiiiK with your lead, you may find the pas-
sage over to the north shore, which is the safest anclioraKC. The harbour has two (ntrances.
To sail into the easternmost, keep the starboard shore on board, in order to avoid llenley
I.ed^e; and apnroach the Seymour I>les no nearer than the depth of fathoms; as you

Will thus avoMi t Kast-rcef, and a small sunken rock, which lie about a cable's length
N.H. l)y K. fro... a.

In 1M31, 11. W. sloop Uaiiffer beat into the harbour of Arathat, by the eastern channel,
borrowing close on the staiboard shore. " In Standing toward Seymour Island (larboard
side) l;ick in 7 fathoms. The Hanger anchoiod in 7 fathoms, with the eastern ehureh
E.N.E., Riid Fiddle Head S.E. by E. No poultry nor stock of any kitid coulil then be
procured. The butter was exceedingly good. The water, abreast of the town, is deep close
to the shore. The inhabitants are supported by the fisheries. If bound hence to the (Jut
of Canso, run out, if the wind permits, by the western channel, keeping very close to the
beach on the larboard side. The channel is very narrow, but deep; 13 fathoms close to
the beach, on which you may spring when passing it.''

CKBDABUCTO BAV is wide and spacious ; it is bold-to on both shores; on the
north side you will see several red cliffs; this shore is sandy, with regular soundings in the
middle of the bay : the water is deep, from 25 to 35, &c. to ^0 fathoms.

Citow IlAiinoiMi is situated on the south side of (.'hedabucto hay, and is capable of
containing ships of war of the (Jih and .^th rates, merchant-ships, &c. Many schooners and
sloops resort here in the months of July and August, to take mackarel and herrings. The
passage in is to the S.W. of the island that lies in the entrance.

N. H. On the south side of the beach Mr. Backhouse erected a beacon ad ships clear
of the Corbyii llocks, which are incorrectly represt nled in the old charts. Keep this beacon
in a line with a remarkable tree upon the hiuh land, and it will lead you also clear of the
llook Island Uock, that lies 25 fathoms from the N.VV. point of Kook Island.

MILFORI) HAVEN, or the !lARHoun of GuvsuoRottOH, at the head of the bay, is
impeded by a bar, but a sloop of war may pass over it. NViihin the bar vessels lie in per-
fect security ; the tide, however, sets in and out with great rapidity. The town is, at
present, though beautifully situated, a place of little trade : it is protected by a balteiy.

|IM

I, for many
lants, who
[t is aoccs-
[e, appear-

of Canso,

Si..

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

1^ 13.2

^ 1^ 12.0

1. ^

UUu

11:25 ill 1.4

1.8

1.6

Photographic

Sdences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY. 14580

(716) 872-4503

% 4

'^^

. C^

PART IV.

The SOUTHERN COAST of NOVA SCOTIA, the BAY

of FUNDY, &c.

I. CIIEDABUCTO BAY TO HALIFAX HARBOUR.

The Eastern part of Nova Scotia is broken into the several islands and passages repre-
sented on the Charts. Of the isles which are low and covered with stunted fir-trees, the first,
on the N.W. is now called Dureli's Island; the second, George's Island; the third, St.
Andrew's Island ; without the latter is the smaller one, called Cranberry Island, which is
now distinguisher'. hy a lighthouse, an octagonal tower, built of wood, 88 feet in height,
painted red and white horizontally,^ and showing two fixed lights, one above the other.

Cape Camo or Canseau is the outer, or easternmost, point of St. Andrew's Island. From
this cape, westward, to Torbay, the coast makes in several white heads or points; here the
country is much broken ; and near the S.E. extremity many white stones appear from the
offing like sheep in the woods. During a southerly gale the sen is dreadful here. From
Torbay to Liscombe Harbour there are banks of red earth and beaches ; and from Liscombe
Harbour to the Rugged Islands, (excepting the White Isles, which are white rocks,) the
capes and outer islands are bound with black slaty rocks, generally stretching out in spits
from east to west : and from the Rugged Islands to Devil's Island, at the entrance of the
Harbour of Halifax, are several remarkably steep red cliffs, linked with beach.

The LrcHTHousE on Cranberry Island is of great importance to the trade in this
part; and it has been said, by Mr. Lockwood, a gentleman well acquainted with the sub-
ject, that *' the Gut of Canso will, by its means, become the common gateway to the Gulf
and River of St. Lawrence, and will tend to mitigate the rigours of a late or early passage
to Quebec."f

The fishermen of Arachat are acquainted with the channels and indents on this coast, and
frequent them, more particularly in the spring and fall, to catch roackarel and herrings, of
which large shoals are common here : but the rocks are so numerous, and the passage so
devious, that no stranger should attempt them.

Of the numerous rocks hereabout, the outer breaker, called the Bass, a rock of 3 feet
water, lies more than two miles E. ^ S. \_E. 13' ^.] from the lighthouse on Cranberry
Island. At seven-tenths of a mile S.E. from Cape Canso is a similar rock, called the
Bull ; and, at one mile to the E.S.E. of the latter, there is said to be another, discovered
by a fisherman of Canso, in 1813 ; but its existence seems to be questionable.

The HARBOUR of CANSO, within George's Island, is well sheltered, with good
ground, and sufficient depth for vessels of any burthen. In rough sea the dangers show
themselves ; but, with smooth water, it is hazardous to enter the passages without a pilot.
Mr. Backhouse says, " Canso Harbour has a passage through from the bay to the south ;
but I would not recommend ships of war to attempt it, unless they answer their helms very
quick, and even of those not such as draw more than 16 feet."

RASPBERRY HARBOUR,^ on the south coast, at about three leagues westward from
Cape Canso, is small, and the shores within quite bold. At the entrance, on the eastern
side, is an island, having a ledge close to it on the S.E. By rounding this ledge, you may
steer directly into the harbour, and come to an anchor under the island, which lies in the

• See note on page 149.

t To those who wish for an accurate knowledge of this country, we recommend Mr. Lockwood's
<* Brief Description of Nova Scotia, with Plates of the Principal Harbours \ including a particular
Account of the Island of Grand Manan." 4to. London, 1818.

X The Port Howr of M. des Barres.

COUNTRY HARBOUR.

161

BAY

ages repre-
Bs, the first,
e third, St.
d, which is
;t in height,
lie other,
and. From
Is ; here the
ar from the
lere. From
m Liscombe
rocks,) the
out in spits
ranee of the

trade in this
with the sub-
r to the Gulf
larly passage

coast, and

herrings, of

passage so

ck of 3 feet
Cranberry
called the

, discovered

with good
ingers show
out a pilot.

the south ;
■ helms very

Istward from

the eastern

^e, you may

lies in the

Lockwood's
a particular

middle of it, in the depth of 7 fathoms, where you will lie safely. The country here is
rocky and barren : a quarry of granite supplies millstones.

WHITE HAVEN, which is two leagues to the westward of Raspberry Harbour, is a
place of hideous aspect. Of its rocky islets,, the larger and outer one, called White Head,
from the colour of its sides, is 70 feet above the level of the sea. This islet appears round
and smooth, and is a useful mark, as the passage in, on either side, is in mid-channel. Off
the Head are two breakers, one S.S.E. and the other E. by S., half a mile off. The most
numerous visitors of this place are crows, eagles, &c., yet tlie neighbouring fishermen,
during spring and summer, find in it large quantities of mackarel, herring, gaspereaux, &c.

TORBAY. — The entrance of this bay is formed on the west by a bold headland, called
Berri/ Head. The channel in is between this head and the islets to the eastward. At E.S.E.
from the head, and south of one of these islets, named George's Island, are three very dan-
gerous rocks, which do not break when the sea is smooth. Within the bay, under the
western peninsula, there is excellent anchorage in from 6 to 4 fathoms, muddy bottom, up
to the eastern part of the bay. There is also anchorage on the western side of the bay, in
from 7 to 3 fathoms, similar ground, where a vessel may lie in safety during any gale.

This bay is settled, and had twenty-one families in it, in 1818 : the lands are rocky, but
a few salt-marshes enable the inhabitants to maintain some cattle. Vessels are built here,
of from 40 to 120 tons, which are employed in the fisheries.

Mr. Dunsterville says, on going into Torbay give Berry Head, the S.W. point, which is
very low, a small berth of half a mile, as a shoal bank extends off it. To the S.E. by E. of
it, about two miles distant, are some rocky heads, near which we sounded in from 7 to 9
fathoms. The Ranger beat in and anchored in 7 fathoms, within a shoal of 2 fathoms,
hard bottom. This bank lies directly in the fairway, in going toward the anchorage. It
lies about half a mile from the south shore. A large white rock on the shore lies abreast of
it. In the fairway you will have from 7 to 9 fathoms. Lobsters abound here, near a
sandy bay on the south shore. In two hours I speared from 60 to 80. Fish is abundant,
and salmon are occasionally caught on the south shore, and sold at half a dollar each.

From Torbay, westward, to Country Harbour, the country, in general, continues rocky
and sterile, with deep ^ 'ater close in, but regular soundings without, and from 30 to 20
fathoms of water. Coddle's Harbour, which is 3^ leagues to the westward of Berry
ilead, affords shelter to small vessels only ; and these enter on the eastern side, to clear the
breakers.

The land about Country Harbour, and from that to Cape Canso, makes like a number
of islands : it is not high, and nothing very conspicuous can be seen. On an islet off
Country Harbour is a skeleton beacon, but you must be clear in before you can make it out.

" We found it impossible to approach the coast between Country Harbour and Louis>
bourg, within 15 or 20 miles, in the month of May, being impeded by the ice; and we
observed several vessels blocked up, in thick weather. When approaching the coast of
Nova Scotia, the lead is the only guide. When near the coast, and you have hard bottom,
you are never more than nine or ten miles off, and on the bank ; but soft blue mud will
always insure safety.

" It appears that a current is always running, more or less, to the eastward from Cape
Caiiso, along the south coast, toward the island of St. Pierre. We experienced it more
than once, in July 1836 ; it set E. by N. 50 miles in 24 hours: and, in January 1838, in
the same space was a similar set." — Mr.Jtfferi/, M.R.N.

COUNTRY KAXtBOURt — This fine harbour is navigable, to the largest ships,
twelve njiles from the entrance. It is, at present, but thinly settled, yet there are reasons
for believing that, as a consequence of local improvements in t!ie neighbourhood, the
population will increase. The shores are bold ; the anchorage soft mud, with a depth of
13 to 5 fathoms. Mr. Lock wood has said that " no position in the province is more
advantageous for settlers than this harbour: at its mouth the islands afford shelter to fisher-
men and small vessels, as well as the means of erecting their stages; and the fishing grounds,
at a short distance in the offing, abound in halibut, haddock, and cod; and what they term
the bait fishery, that is, mackarel, gaspereaux, smelt, &c. Salmon are plentiful in their
season; and, but for the improvident use of this valuable addition to the means of subsist-
ence, would continue for ages."

The ledges off the harbour generally break, and between them are deep passages. On

169

TORBAY TO COUN'IllY HAUBOUR.

advancing from the eastward, there are two rocks to be avoided, which lie as shown on the
Charts. On proceeding inward, give Green Island a small berth, and the dangers on that
side will be avoided.

The rocks on the west of the entrance, named Castor and Pollux, are above water and
bold-to. When above them, give Cape Mocodome a good berth, so as to avoid the Bull,
a dangerous sunken rock, that breaks in rough weather, and lies about half a mile from the
extremity of the Cape.

The islands on the east side of the entrance, Green hland. Goose Island, and Harbour
Island, are low, and covered with scrubby trees.* Within Harbour Island is excellent
anchorage.

Fisherman's Harbour, on the west of Country Harbour, is a favourite resort of
fishing vessels, it having a shingly beach, forming an elbow, and very convenient for
drying fish.

BiCKERTON Harbour, to the west of Fisherman's Harbour, is fit for small vessels
only. At two miles to the west of it is Hollin's EIakbour, a place of shelter for
coasters, and resorted to by the fishermen. Indian Harbour is a shallow and unsafe
creek, but has good lands, well clothed with pine, maple, birch, and spruce. The next
inlet, called Wine Harbour, has a bar of sand, which is nearly dry. There are a few,
and but few, settlers on these harbours.

St. MARY'S RIVER.— The navigation of this river is impeded by a bar of 12 feet of
water, which extends across, at the distance of a mile and three-quarters above Gunning
Point, the west point of the entrance. Below the bar, toward the western side, is a middle
ground, which appears uncovered with very low tides ; and above the bar, nearly in mid-
channel, is a small rocky islet. The passage over the bar is on the eastern side of this islet.
The tide, which is very rapid, marks out the channel ; the latter is devious, between mud-
banks, extending from each shore, and dry at low water. The depths upward are from
24 to 18 feet. The town of Suekbhoor is at present a small village, at the head of the
liver, about three leagues from the sea.

The islet called Wedge Isle, which lies at the distance of half a league south from the
S.W. point of St. Mary's River, is remarkable, and serves as an excellent guide to the
harbours in the neighbourhood. A beacon, erected upon it, may be seen from 6 to 8 miles
off. The side of this islet, toward the main land, is abrupt, and its summit 1 15 feet above
the sea. From its S.W. end ledges extend outward to the distance of half a mile; and
some sunken rocks, *;xtending toward it from the main, obstruct the passage nearly half-way
over. At 2i^ miles south from the Wedge, is a fishing-bank of 30 to 20 feet, the area of
vrhich is about 200 acres.

The Harbour of Jegogan may be readily found, on the eastward, by Wedge Isle, above
described ; and, on the westward, by the bold and high land called Redman's Head. The
passage in is at the distance of a quarter of a mile from that head ; because, at the distance
of three-quarters, is a dry ledge, called the Shag. Within the small island on the east
side of the entrance, called Tobacco Isle, there is anchorage in 4 or 5 fathoms, muddy
bottom.

LISCOMB HARBOUR.— The entrance into this harbour, which is one of the best on
the coast, is between Liscomb Island and the headland on the west, called Smith or White
Point. From the S.E. end of Liscomb Island, a ledge, with breakers, extends to the dis-
tance of three-quarters of a mile. Within and under the lee of the island is safe anchorage
in from 13 to 8 fathoms. On the N.E. of the island, a vessel caught in a S.E. gale may be
sheltered by Redman's Head, already described, with the Head S.S.E. in 6 and 7 fathoms,
bottom of clay.

On the west side, the ground from Smith Point is shoal to the distance of nearly a mile
S.S.E. ; and at 2^ miles south from the point, is a rock, on which the ship Black Prince
Mras lost. It constantly breaks, and is partly uncovered. The island-side is bold.

The first direction of the harbour is nearly north, then W.N.W. Opposite to the first
fish-stage, at half a mile from shore> is as good a berth as can be desired, in 7 fathoms.

• Goose and Harbour Island are the William and Augustus of M. des Barres, and are so called
in several Charts.

on the
)n that

[er and
e Bull,
om the

Jarbour
xcellent

esoTt of
lient for

I vessels
jUer for
\ unsafe
rhe next
re a few,

12 feet of
Gunning
a middle
y in mid-
this islet,
een mud-
are from
;ad of the

h from the
ide to the
to 8 miles
feet ahove
mile; and
, half-way
the area of

[sle, above

lead. The

le distance

»n the east

IS, muddy

[he best on
. or White
I to the dis-
1 anchorage
kle may be
[7 fathoms,

larly a mile
lack Prince
lid.

to the first
17 fathoms.

ire so called

CAPE SPRY.

163

from this place the harbour is navigable to the distance of four miles : it is, liowever, to be
observed, tliat there are two sunken rocks on the north side.

BAY OP ISLANDS. — The coast between Liscomb and Beaver Ilarbouis, an extent of
six leagues, is denominated (he Bay of Islands. Within this space the islets, rocks, and
ledges are innumerable. They form passages in all directions, which have, in general, a
good depth of water. At the eastern part of this labyrinth, near Liscomb, is Marie-et-
JosEPii, an excellent harbour, the settlers on which keep large herds of cattle, &c.

The White Islands, nearly half-way between the harbours of Beaver and Liscomb,
appear of a light stone colour, with green summits. The latter are above 60 feet above the
level of the sea. The isles are bold on the south side ; tlie passage between them safe ;
and there is good anchorage within them, in from 10 to 7 fathoms.

BEAVER HARBOUR is too intricate to be recommended to a stranger: the islands
off the entrance, however, may occasionally afford shelter from a southerly gale. Five
Dutch families are settled here, and appear to be doing well in farming, fishing, &c.

In June 1831, H.M. ship Ranger visited Beaver Harbour, and found it much exposed
to S.S.E. winds; but it has a little cove, with 3^ fathoms therein, which affords shelter at
all times to small craft. There are several sunken rocks in going in, which, in a high sea,
show themselves. However, it is certainly not a place that can be recommended. Butter
was, at this time, 9^. per lb. Fish and lobsters abundant.

SHEET HARBOUR. — This harbour is nearly in the half-way between Country Harbour
and Halifax. It is very extensive, though but thinly settled, and the deep navigable water
continues to the falls, which are about nine miles above the entrance of the harbour. The
name is derived from a blank cliff, on a rocky isle at the entrance, which appears like a
suspended sheet.

Without the harbour are the several ledges shown on the Charts. These ledges show
themselves, excepting the outer one, called by the fishermen Yankee Jack, and which, when
the sea is smooth, is very dangerous. It has been asserted, that a rocky shoal lies about
half a mile to the south of the Yankee, but its position has not been ascertained.

Within the entrance is a rock, two feet under water, which will be avoided by keeping
the Sheet open of the island next within it on the eastern side. In sailing or turning up
the harbour, give the sides a very moderate berth, and you will have from 11 to 5 fathoms,
good holding ground.

The flood at the entrance of Sheet Harbour sets S.S.W. about one mile an hour. High
water, full and change, at 8 Ii. 50 m. Tides rise 7 feet.

MUSHABOON, to the westward of Sheet Harbour, is a small bay, open to the S.E.,
which affords sheUer at its head only, in from 7 to 5 fathoms, muddy bottom. It is con,
nected to Sheet Harbour by a clear, deep, and bold passage, between an island and the
main land. Here you may lash your vessel to the trees, and, lying in 5 faihoms, soft
bottom, with the side touching the cliff, be perfectly sheltered from all winds. This place
is uninhabited, the land being incapable of cultivation. In going through the passage to
Slieet Harbour, you must guard against a sunken rock at its mouth, which, from the
smoothness of the water, seldom shows its position : it lies 400 yards off Banbury Islands,
and may be easily cleared, by keeping the Sheet Rock open of the island.

SPRY or Taylor's Harbour. — Cape Spry, or Taylor's Head, divides Mushaboon from
Spry or Taylor's Harbour. On the west side of the latter are two large islands, now called
Gerard's Islands. Cape Spry is destitute of trees ; and, being composed of large white
rocks, is distinguishable afar off. From the point of the Cape, westward, is a low shingly
beach, which is shoal to the distance outward of one-third of a mile.

On the opposite side of the harbour is a sunken ledge and a large dry rock : these may
be passed on either side, whence you steer for the eastern point of Gerard's Island,
and sail close along it, as a sunken rock lies off it at the distance of 300 yards. The
rest of the way is clear, up to the anchorage. This harbour is open to the S.E. and
E.S.E. winds.

At the distance of about three miles S.S.E. from Cape Spry is a dry rock, called by the
fishermen Taylor's Goose. At about midway between it and the Beaver Islands lie the
Shag Ledges^ (Pegasus* IVing of Des Barres,) which are partly dry, and extend nearly a
league east and west. Within and about them the depths are from 20 to 7 fathoms.

164

SHIP IIAllBOUR.

DEANE or Pope's Harbour, on the western side of Gerard's Isles above mentioned,
has a ledge at its entrance, forming an obtuse angle at the two points, at three-fourths of a
mile from each, and from which a shoal tails to the southward half a mile. It may be
passed on either side; but, on the west, care must be taken to avoid a shoal extending from
the outer Tangier Island. The best shelter is under the smaller island on the eastern side,
where there are from 8 to 6 fathoms, with good clay ground.

TANGIER HARBOUR, next to Deane or Pope's, is formed by craggy barren islands,
which secure vessels from all winds. At about two miles from its mouth is a ledge that
dries at low water. The anchorage is under the eastern sliore, 5 to 4 fathoms, stiff mud.
Here are some good tracts of pasture land, and the few inhabitants are occupied in the
fishing and coasting trade.

SHOAL BAY. — (Saunders Mr. of Des Barres.) — This bay has a good depth of water
and excellent anchorage. The latter is to the northward of the island now called Charles
Island, and vessels lie in it, land-locked, in 7 fathoms. Off the mouth of the harbour is a
rock, that always breaks ; but it is bold-to, and may be passed on either side. Some parts
of the harbour will admi: large ships to lie afloat, alongside the shore, over a bottom of
black mud. Supplies of stock, &c. may be obtained from the inhabitants of this place.

SHIP HARBOUR. — In this harbour, and on the isles about it, are about twenty
families, who keep small stocks of cattle, &c. The entrance, called by Des Barres
Knowles* Harbour, is deep and bold ; it lies between two islands, of which the eastern is
Brier's Island. A white cliff, which may be seen from a considerable distance in the offing,
is a good mark for the harbour: at first it resembles a ship under sail; but on approaching
seems more like a schooner's topsail. There is good anchorage in every part of the harbour,
and, above the Narrows, a fleet of the largest ships may lie without the smallest motion.
Brier's Island, above mentioned, is a low rugged island, and ledges, partly dry, extend from
it three-fourths of a mile to the eastward : avoiding these, when entering this way, you may
range along the western island and come to an anchor under its north point, in 6 or 7
fathoms, the bottom of mud.

OWL'S HEAD, or Keppel Harbour, which is next to the west of the harbour last
described, although smaller than many other harbours on the coast, has sufficient space for
a fleet. It may be known at a distance by Owl's Head, on the western side, which appears
round, is abrupt, and very remarkable. The neighbouring coast and islets are rugged and
barren, but the harbour has a few settlers.

The entrance is of sufficient breadth to allow a large ship to turn into it ; and, within the
harbour, shipping lie land-locked, when in 6 and 7 fathoms, bottom of mud. In taking a
berth, you will be guided by the direction of the wind; as with a S.W. gale the western
anchorage is to be preferred, and the eastern with a S.E.

It is high water here at 8 h. 30 ra., and the tide rises from 5 to 7 feet.

JEDORE HARBOUR.— CPor/ Egtnont of Des Barres.)— From the appearance of
this harbour on the Charts, it might be presumed that it is spacious and commodious; but,
on examination, it will be found that it is really different. The entrance is blind and intri-
cate; a shoal of only 11 feet lies at its mouth; the channel within narrow and winding;
extensive mud-flats, covered at high water, and uncovered with the ebb : hence a stranger
can enter with safety only at low water, the channel being then clearly in sight, and the
water sufficient for large ships. The best anchorage is abreast of the sand-beach, two miles
from the entrance, in from 9 to 6 fathoms, bottom of stiff mud.

The lands at the head of the harbour are stony, but tolerably good ; the rest barren and
deplorable. The inhabitants, an industrious people, consist of about twenty families; they
subsist chiefly by coasting, and supply Halifax with wood, which they cut from the unoc-
cupied lands around them.

Without the entrance, on the eastern side, are two isles, called Roger and Barren
Islands, between and within which the passages are good, and afford shelter in case of
necessity.

The Brig Rock, a very dangerous rock of 3 feet, about the size of a frigate's long-
boat, lies S.E. J E. from Jedore Head, and S.W. two miles from the isle called Long
Island. The weed on the lop of it may frequently be seen at the surface. The marks
for this rock are, a house and barn in Clam Bay just open of the east end of Long
Island, bearing N. 5° £., and the house on Jedore Head open to the N.E. of Jedore
Rock. .>:h--. > . , . .. -iii •,.■ — 1 -. - ■ '■ ..'

lentioned,
urlhs of a
It may be
iding from
stern side,

en islands,

ledge that

stiff mud.

)ied in the

h of water
led Charles
larbour is a
Some parts

I bottom of
is place.

•out twenty
Des Barres
le eastern is

II the offing,
ipproaching
the harbour,
lest motion,
extend from
ly, you may
It, in 6 or 7

harbour last

gnt space for

[hich appears

rugged and

3, within the
In taking a
the western

pearance of
)dious; but,
id and intri-

id winding;
a stranger
;ht, and the

1, two miles

barren and

lilies; they

the unoc-

land Barren
in case of

[gate's long-
called Long
The marks
lid of Long
of Jedore

SABLE ISLAND.

\65

At about nine miles south from Jedore Head is a reef, called the Polluck Shoal; its
area is about one acre, has a depth of 24 feet over it; and, during a swell, the sea breaks
on it with great violence.

Those advancing between the Brig Rock and PoUuck Shoal, should be cautious of
approaching any of the Jedore Leuges": they aie laid down on the Charts, and said to
extend from five to nine miles from the mouth of the harbour.

It is high water at Jedore Head at 8 h. 20 m. ; the tide rises from 6 to 9 feet.

Between Jedore and Halifax, there are no harbours of any consideration for shipping,
but there are numerous seltlements. The land in this extent is, in general, of moderate
height, rising gradually from tlie shore. lied and precipitous cliffs, the characteristic of the
eastern coast, may be seen from seven to nine miles off. The best harbour is that called
Tiiree-Fathoms Haiuiol'r, which has occasionally received large vessels in distress. This
harbour lies immediately to the east of an islet called Shut in hUnid; and, with the wind
on shore, is difficult and dangerous; so that it is to be attempted only in cases of real dis-
tress. The channel lies two-thirds over to the northward from Shut-in Island, and turns
short lound the starboard point to the westward.

In beating to windward, ships may stand to within a mile and a iialf of the shore, the
soundings being tolerably regular, from 20 to 12 and 8 fathoms.

II.-SABLE ISLAND and BANKS of NOVA SCOTIA.

SABZiZS XSIiAND. — The southernmost part of Sable Islu. " , which was laid down
in the survey of M. Des Barres in latitude 44° 0', has latterly been represented in 43° 55' ;
and the west end, given on the same authority in longitude 60° 32', has been recently given
in 60° 17'. Mr. John Jones, master of II. M. ship Hussar, who, in 1829, made and pub-
lished numerous observations on this part of the world, gives the east end of the island in
latitude 43= 59' 16", longitude 59° 48' ; and the west end in latitude 43° 56' 42", long.
60° 17' 1 5". To the error (or presumed error) in position many wrecks have been attributed.
In approaching, therefore, all caution is required.

On the days of the new and full moon, it is high water along the south shore of the
island at half an hour after 8 o'clock, and it flows till half an hour past 10 o'clock on the
north side, and till near 11 o'clock in the pond. Common spring-tides rise seven feet
perpendicular, and neap tides four. The flood sets in from the S.S.VV. at the rate of half
a mile an hour, but it alters its course, and increases its velocity, near the ends of the
island. At half-flood it streams north, and south at half-ebb, with great swiftness, across
the north-east and north-west bars ; it is therefore dangerous to approach without a com-
manding breeze.

The north-east bar runs out E.N.E. about 4 leagues from the eastern extremity of the
i.sland, all which is very shoal, having in few places more than 2, 3, or 4 fathoms of water,
whence it continues E. and E. by S., deepening gradually to 12, 15, and 11 fathoms, at
the distance of eight or ten leagues, and shapes to the S. and S.E., sloping gently to 60 and
70 fathoms. To the northward and eastward it is very steep, and in a run of three miles
the water will deepen to 130 fathoms. Abreast the body of the isle, the soundings are more
gradual. The shoal ground of the north-west bar shapes to the westward, and deepens
gradually to 70 fathoms of water, at the distance of 20 or 25 leagues from the isle ; and
winds easterly and southerly, until it meets the soundings of the north-east bar. The
quality of the bottom, in general, is very fine sand, with a few small transparent stones ; to
the northward, and close to the north-east bar, the sand is mixed with many black specks ;
but, near the north-west bar, the sand has a greenish colour. The north-east bar breaks in
bad weather, at the distance of 8 or 10 leagues from the island; but, in moderate weather,
a ship may cross it, at 5 leagues distance, with great safety, in no less than 8 or 9 fathoms
of water; and, if the weather be clear, the island may be seen thence very distinctly from a
boat. The north-west bar breaks, in bad weather, at 7, and sometimes 8 miles from the
island ; but when the sea is smooth, ships may cross it within the distance of 4 miles, in 7
fathoms of water. [^These bars are described as they were found by Mr. Des Barres.] But
the changes in the form and extent of Sable Island, between 1811 and 1837, are thus de-
scribed by the superintendent, Mr. Darby: — ;t ,

" On the 30th of September, 181 1, there was a severe gale of wind from the S.S.E., that
washed away all the dry pan of the N.W. bar, extending 4i miles N.W. from the high

]

, li

166

SABLE ISLAND.

part of the island, and half a mile broad. The greater part of it was covered with grass ;
and on the outer part of it was a hill, elevated about twenty-five or thirty feet above the
level of tlie sea, on which the rigging and sails of a brig, that was wrecked there that sum-
mer, were placed for safety ; but these were all lost when it washed away. There is now,
over the same extent of bar, four or five fathoms of water. The sea has been reducing the
western end, both since and before that time, at the rate of nearly one-sixth of a mile
annually.

** Easterly, southerly, and S.S.W. winds set a rapid current along shore, in shoal water,
to the W.N.W. and N.W. ; that is, along the shore of the western end of the island, but
not the eastern or middle, as there the current, with southerly and S.W. winds, sets to the
eastward. The natural tendency of the flood-tide is towards the coast. When it strikes the
island, it flows to the eastward over the north-east bank, and to the westward over the
north-west bank, and passes the west end, in a north-west direction, so rapidly that it carries
the sand with it ; and the hills of the west end being high and narrow, they are undermined
at their base by it, and tumble down some thousands of tons of sand at a time : this the
current beneath catches and sweeps away to the N.W., increasing the bank. As soon'as
this current passes the extreme point of the dry bar, it tends more across the bunk to the
N.E. ; the motion of the sea contributing to keep the sand in motion, the current carries it
to the N.E. and spreads to the N.W. Although, across the bank from the island, to the
distance of fifteen or twenty miles to the N.W., there is a flood and ebb-tide, the flood set-
ling to the N.N.E. the ebb to the S.S.W., the flood comes over a broad flat bottom until it
arrives at the highest ridge of the bar, bringing the sand with it so far. It then finds a deep
water suddenly to the eastward of the bar, and its strength is as suddenly lost, the waters
pitching over this bank, settle gently in deep water, and the sand going with the current
does the same, and keeps the eastern edge of the bar and the bank very steep; but to the
southward and westward it is flat and shallow.

" The ebb-tide setting gently to the southward and westward, meets the steep side of the
bank, and, rising above it, passes over and increases in strength, merely levelling the sand
that had been brought up by the last flood. It does not carry it back until the next flood
comes, which brings up a fresh supply from the washing of this land ; and so, alternately,
the sand changes with every flood and ebb-tide. The consequence is, that although the
west end is several miles to the eastward of where it was in 1811, yet the shoalest or eastern
parts of jthe bar or bank have increased eastward, as fast as the island has decreased in the
same direction. But the distance of the outer breakers has not increased more than about
two miles; in 1829, their whole distance from the land being from ten to fourteen miles,
in rough weather, bearing N.W. from the island. There is a passage across the bar inside,
about four or five miles broad, with three or four fathoms of water.

" Since 1811, or about twenty-six years, an extent of four miles and a half of high land
has been washed away, which averages rather better than one-sixth of a mile every year.
In the last few years it is nearer to one-fourth of a mile every year, owing to the land being
much narrower than it was the first fifteen years of the elapsed time. The whole of the
island that does not wash away, grows in height ; the most windy seasons cause the greatest
elevation of parts where loose sand can be blown on them ; but the island in general grows
narrower.

" The eastern end of the island has not wasted much in length since my knowledge of
it — nearly thirty years. The high land, about a mile of it, has blown down with the wind,
but not washed down with the sea, as at the west end ; and now there is a low, bare, sandy
beach, extending in a N.E. direction from the high land about three miles. I think about
one mile of this was high land, or sand-hills, thirty years ago; the other two miles were
formed by a low sandy beach, as at present. The elevated portion of the one mile, of
course, has been blown into the sea, and gone to increase the shoal-water on the bar, being
carried there by a strong flood-tide setting to the N.N.E. The bar itself extends from the
dry part E.N.E., and at the distance of twelve or fourteen miles from the high land, a very
shoal spot always breaks, except when dry, at which time seals may be observed lying on
it. This bar and bank is also very steep on the norlh-weslern edge, and shallow and flat
on the opposite directions. The bar travels to the northward slowly ; the N.W. bar travels
to the northward and eastward rapidly.

** The variation of the compass, by amplitudes, on the 9th of February, 1837, was
20° 22' west, and I think is increasing.

" The lake in the island fills up very fast, generally by sand blowing into it from all

with grass ;
t above the
e that sum-
ere is now,
educing the
1 of a mile

shoal water,
island, but
, sets to the
t strikes the
jrd over the
iiat it carries
undermined
ne : this the
As soon'as
biink to the
ent carries it
iland, to the
he flood set-
tttom until it
finds a deep
t, the waters
1 the current
; but to the

ep side of the
iling the sand
le next flood
J, alternately,

although the
est or eastern
:reased in the
re than about
turteen miles,

le bar inside,

of high land
le every year,
lie land being
Iwhole of the
]e the greatest

;eneral grows

knowledge of
[ith the wind,
V, bare, sandy
I think about
to miles were
|one mile, of

he bar, being
Inds from the
] land, a very
Ived lying on
lillow and flat

I. bar travels

\, 1837, was
it from all

SADLE ISLAND.

l67

directions, and partially by the sea flowing over the south coast in many places in heavy
weather, and conveying the sand with it.* The improvements on the island have very
much increased wiiliin the last few years. When the French frigate was cast away, in
18'22, the crew, all except the oflicers, had to cook and live in the little hollows and shel-
tered spots about the island, for the want of buildings to cover them ; and yet they were
grateful and uncomplaining. I have since seen Englishmen, with a comfortable house over
their heads, good convenience for cooking, and plenty to eat, yet dissatisfied and grumblit)g.
There are now seventeen considerable buildings on the island, besides some tiiree or four
small ones, that would, upon an occasion, afford shelter to four or five hundred persons."

Along the north and south sides of the island are many spits of sand, nearly parallel with,
and within a mile from, the shore. Vessels may anchor on the north side of the island,
between the spits, and not be liable to be driven off" by southerly winds. On the south
side, it is boldest oft" the body of the island, having 10 or 12 fathoms of water, within a
mile of the shore; but toward the bar it is more shoal, and dangerous to approacli ; for the
currents, which are uncertain, are, in a great degree, influenced by the winds which have

{)receded. The surf beats continually on the shore, and, in calm weather, is heard several
eagues off". Landing on this island, with bouts, is practicable on the north side, after a
continuance of good weather only. The whole island is composed of white sand, much
coarser than any of the soundings about it, and intermixed with small transparent stones.
Its face is very broken, and hove up in little hills, knobs, and cliffs, wildly heaped together,
within which are hollows, and ponds of fresh water, the skirts of which abound with cran-
berries the whole year, and with blueberries, juniper, &c., in their season ; as also with
ducks, snipes, and other birds. This sandy island affords great plenty of beach-grass, wild
peas, and other herbage, for the support of the horses, cows, hogs, &c., which are running
wild upon it. It produces no trees; but abundance of wreck and drift wood may be
picked up along shore for fuel. Strong northerly winds shift the spits of sand, and often
even choke up the entrance of the pond, which usually opens again by the next southern
blast. In this pond were prodigious numbers of seals, and some flat fish, eels, &c. ; and,
on the south-west side, lies a bed of remarkably large mussels and clams. The south shore
is, between the cliffs, so low, that the sea breaks quite over in many places, when the wind
blows on the island. The Ram^s Head is the highest hill on this island; it has a steep cliff'
on the north-west, and falls gently to the south-east. The Naked Sand-hills are 146 feet
in perpendicular height above the level of high-water mark, and always appear very white.
Mount Knight is in the shape of a pyramid, situate in a hollow, between two steep cliffs.
Mount Luttrell is a remarkable hummock on the top of a large swelling in the land.
Gratia Hill is a knob at the top of a cliff, the height of which is 126 feet perpendicular

* Of the great changes which are here taking place, the following is an evidence : —
Discovery on Sable Island. — The Halifax papers of last week publish the following singular
discovery : — " The following facts have been made known to us by a gentleman of this city, who
has had his information from the best authority, viz. Captain Darby, sei:;.. governor (as he is called)
of Sable Island. For the last 25 or 30 years there has been a large --.oind or pyramid of sand,
about 100 feet high, on the island, and not very far from the residence -.ii' Captain Darby. The
winds for some years have been gradually diminishing its height, and ailer u severe blow some weeks
since it was completely blown away, and, singular to say, a number of small houses, built of the
timbers and planks of a vessel, were quite visible. On examination they were foumt to contain a
number of articles of furniture and stores, put up in boxes, which were marked ' 43rd Regiment ;*
the boxes or cases were perfectly rotten, and would not admit of their being removed. A brass
dog-collar was, however, discovered by Captain Darby, with the name of ' Major Elliot, 43rd
Regiment,' on it, and which Captain Darby brought to the city, and presented to Major Tryon,
who belongs to the 43rd regiment." — Halifax Herald. Captain Darby has endorsed this extraordi-
nary announcement. Addressing the editor of the Halifax Herald, on Wednesday, he says, *' The
houses are appearing at the base of the hill, about two miles hing, and 60 or 70 feet high, lying
parallel with the south coast of the island, the eastern end of which hill is about 55 feet high,
covered with grass and other vegetation, about 35 feet below the surface, and 23 above the level of
the sea; these houses appear as the sands wear away with the action of the winds. There appeared
at times numerous bullets of lead, a great number of military shoes, parts of bales of blankets and
cloths, brass points of sword scabbards, bees'-wax, a small glass convex on both sides, a copper half-
penny of George II. dated 1749, some military brass buckles, a great number of brass paper-pins,
a very small dog's brjiss collar, with ' Major Elliot, 43rd Regiment,' engraved on it, numerous bones,
some whole and some broken, with the scalp of hair and head-dress of a young female, .i piece of
gold band. There are three buildings, which seem to have been constructed of the fragments of
some ship ; they are situate about 10 feet apart, in a triangular form, and are 10 to 12 feet square."
—Newsp. Sept. 1842.

168

SABLE ISLAND.

above high-water mark. The Vale of Miaert/ is nlso remarkable, as is Smilli't Flog-Staff,
a large hill, with a regular ascent every way. From the offing, the south side of the
jshnd appears like a long ridge of sandy clitTs, lessening toward the west end, which is
very low.

In the year 1803, the legislature of Nova Scntia passed a liberal vote of money for the
purpose of commencing an establishment on Sable Island in order to prevent shipwreck,
and to protect all persons and property which might happen to be cast ashore. Commis-
sioners were consequently appointed for executing this important trust, and a superintendent
to reside on the island, empowered as a justice of peace, surveyor and searcher of impost
and excise, and authorised by a warrant to take charge of the island, shores, and fisheries,
and of all wrecks found there, in cases where persons are not saved competent to take the
care of such property. Instructions were given to him, that persons saved with property
are to have the full care, charge, and possession of it, and be allowed to export it in any
manner they may think proper. Every aid and assistance to be afforded, and a receipt
given, specifying the property saved, the aid received, and referring the salvage or reward
to be ascertained by the commissioners at Halifax ; but neither fee nor reward is to be taken,
nor property disposed of, upon the island. There were also ordered, four able men and
proper boats, with materials completely fitted to erect a house and good store ; also cattle,
sheep, goats, and poultry, with clothing, provisions, &c. A gun is placed on the island, to
answer such as may be heard from vessels at sea. Signals were to be hoisted on the island,
and buildings have been erected, particularly on the west side. The greatest care has been
taken to extend aid as much as possible, to prevent misfortune, and to relieve it; to secure
property from loss, and from extortion for saving it, by referring it, in all cases, to the com-
missioners in Halifax, from whose respectability we are assured that equity and charity will
be united in directing and deciding. The superintendent and boatmen are paid and sub-
sisted, and all necessaries furnished, by government, tha* no claims or demands may be
made by them upon the unfortunate. But, as extraordinary risk, enterprise, and exertion,
in so good a cause, deserve recompense, such cases are to be exactly stated to the commis-
sioners, who are to adjust the measure and mode of extra reward to be allowed and paid.

The eslablishnient, formed in 1 804, consists of a superintendent and about ten assistants,
who constantly reside on the island, and have in charge a competent supply of such articles
as may be useful, with good boats, &c. They continually perambulate the islatid, and
attend the several signal-posts and flag-staffs, intended to direct vessels, and the huts to
shelter the sufferers. There never were any inhabitants on the island but those connected
with the establishment.

The island is regularly visited by a vessel from Halifax, to convey supplies, and bring
away those who may have been thrown upon its shores. The supply of stores and provi-
sions is abundant, so that 300 persons, at once upon the island, have been liberally assisted
and supplied with necessaries.*

This establishment was founded by the Provincial Legislature, at the recommendation of
the late Sir John Wentworth, then Lieut.-Governor, and has since proved the means of
saving many lives. In every year vessels have been lost. The years 1822 and 1823 were
particularly marked ; as, from VAfricaine, (French frigate,) the ships Hope and Marshal
IVellington, 429 persons were saved, who, after escaping the dangers of the surf, would
otherwise have perished with hunger.'f"

There are several houses on the island ; of which one is occupied by the superintendent-,
and stands on the north side, at eight miles (nautic) from the west end ; another is on

♦ Colonel Bouchette's ' British Dominions in North America,' 1832, Vol. ii p. 72.

t The Hope and Marshal Wellington, above-mentioned, were lost in June, 1823. Of these losses
a rather indistinct account was given in the London newspapers of and about the 23rd of July. Ac-
cording to this account, the vessels were totally lost, and bedded in the sand, but the greater part
of the people was saved. Previous to the catastrophe, southerly and scant winds only prevailed, and
these were succeeded by a thick fog; so that tlie shore could not be seen at the distance of half a
cable's length.

The Hope was lost on the 4tli of June, at 5 a. m., on the eastern side of th§ island, and a strong
current from S.E. during an interval of scant or calm, had carried her north-westward; for, by
observation on the 3rd, she was in lat. 43° 30', 30 miles to the southward, and 90 to the eastward of
the island. Two days after the Marshal Wellington's boats came in with the crew: she also got
upon the N.E. bar, and filled. . ,, ^ .

Flag-Staf
side of tlie
J, which is

ney for the

shipwreck,

Commis-

)erinlcndent

ir of impost

nd fisheries,

to take the
ith property
ort it in any
id a receipt
je or reward
I to be taken,
)\e men and
; also cattle,
he island, to
)n the island,
are has been
it ; to secure
, to the com-
d charity will
laid and sub-
ands may be
and exertion,
I the commis-
;d and paid.

ten assistants,
f such articles
Q island, and
id the huts to
ose coimected

;s, and bring
;s and provi-
2rally assisted

Imendation of
the means of
id 1823 were
land Marshal
surf, would

Iperintendenf,
mother is on

)f these losses
I of July. Ac-
lie greater part
[prevailed, and
lince of half a

and a strong

»ard; for, by

lie eastward of

she also got

SAI»LK ISLAND.

160

the nortli side, at four miles from tiic western extremity, and Q\ eastward from the west
end of the lake, and 4^ miles W.N.W. from the superintendent's : nnotlier house, unin-
habited, is on the south side, at nine miles from the east end, close to the eastern extremity
of the lake, and 7i miles K.S.K. from the ruiu'rinleiuleiit's. These houses are not in sight
from the beach, but at 300 lo 400 ya'ds from it, ami at the same distance also finm the margin
of the lake. I'hose uninhabil J contain provisions, tinder-hox, matches, &c. There are
several fresh-water ponds, as shown on the pariiculur chart: but wherever the surface is
moist, fresh water may be obtained by digging from one to three feel deep.

Mariners approaching the isle are warned to keep the lead going, and never to approach
the south side nearer than in 10 fathoms, nor the north side nearer than in 25 fathoms.

On the south side the Curhent, in shoal water, with prevailing south and S.W. winds,
sets rapidly eastward, until it reaches the end of the N.K. bar; it then unites and blends
with the St. Lawrence Stream, which passes the bar in a S.S.W. direction, and runs strongest
in April, May, and June. Mr. Darby say?, I have sufficient reason for believing that the
Gulf Stream on the parallel of 42" 30', running E.N.E., occasions the St. Lawrence Stream,
then running S.S.W., to glide to westward. The strength of this stream has never been
noticed, and three-fourths of the vessels lost have imagined themselves to the eastward of
the island, when, in fact, they were in the loui^itude of it. On the north side of the island,
the currents are variable, but mostly eastward.

The Soundings decline regularly on the south side of the island only ; on approaching
it from any other bearing whatever, comparatively deep water will be found, as 10 fathoms
or more, close to danger. In foggy weather, vessels should not approach the north side or
point of either bar nearer than in 25 fathoms. Two belts encircle the isle ; the outer, at a
mile from shore, has 2i fathoms on it. These belts are increased by gales and high winds,
which, raking the island, drift the sand from them to the bars. The island being composed
of loose light sand, high gales frequently alter its outline and appearance.

Should a vessel happen to be ashore in a fog, situation unknown, lower a boat when
prudent, and observe the following notice. If breakers extend N.W. and S.E., you are on
the N.W. bar: if they extend W.S.W. and E.N.E,. you are on the N.E. bar: if they
extend a-head north, and then lie east and west, you are on the south side : if south, and
then lie east and west, you are on the north side.

The prevailing winds about the island are from east to south, and from south to west.
With these the north or leeward side is comparatively smooth, and, therefore, should be
sought. There is a swashway on each bar, shown on the chart, and lives may be saved by
passing through, and thus getting to leeward. There is no risk in moderate weather; but if
the surf should appear too dangerous, land as you can, or try to weather the bar altogether.
Having ontfe got to the northward of the bar, haul up S.E. or W.S.W., as the case may be,
for the land, and take the boat ashore as near the house as may be convenient. The semi,
circular form of the north side is favourable for boats, as under the windward curve a lee is
afforded from east and west winds; but, with a fresh north wind, this form is against a boat
getting off the land ; therefore, if ashore, on the north side, push the boat right before the
sea for the land, rather than risk getting to leeward by crossing either bar.

If ashore on the south edge of either bar, with the wind north, land on the south side.

If ashore on the N.E. bar, in tolerable weather, with the wind about west, you may land
at the east end, without crossing the bar; and, vice versa, if on the N.W. bar, and, owing
to the inner belt, the time of high water is the best for landing.

After landing, if, owing to a fog, you cannot judge of your situation so as to shape your
course to one of the houses, seek the lake, and then proceed.

The preceding description, excepting a little alteration, is from the observations of Mr.
Joseph Darby, master of the schooner Two Brothers, and ten years in the service of the
island. (Halifax, 8lh April, 1824.) Mr. Darby has also given a list of ships and vessels,
wrecks upon the coast and bars, thirty-four in number, between 180'2 and 1824; the
greater part upon the southern shores.*

* The importance of the establishment on Sable Island cannot be better illustrated than by an
extract from the Loo of the superintendent, Mr. Darby, which concludes thus : —

" Thus ends the year 1835, and with us it has been a year of great labour and fatigue ; our woik
has heaped upon us faster than we could clear it awav. We have saved and shipped to Halifax

Z '

170

MAMFAX IIARnOUH.

The NOVA 800TXA BANKS.— The ronn and extent of the Nova Scotian
Banks can be heat understood by reFerence to the late charts. The banks are generally of
hard ground, scpaiated by intervals, the bottom of which is of mud. Uctween these banks
and the shore are several small inner banks, with deep water id muddy bottom. The
water deepens regularly from Sable Island to the distance of 22 leagues, in 50 fathoms, fine
gravel; thence proceeding westward, the gravel becomes coarser: continuing westward to
the western extremity of the banks, the soundings are rocky, and shoalen to 18 and 15
fathoms of water: Oape Sable bearing N. by \V. distant 1.5 leagues.

It may be observed, generally, that the soundings all along the Nova Scotian roast, be-
tween Cape Canso to the E.N.K. and Cape Sable to the W.S.W. are very irregular, from
'25 to 40 and 50 fathoms. In fuggy weather, do not stand nearer in-sliore than :<5 fathoms,
lest you fall upon some of the ledges. I}y no means make too bold with the shore in such
weather, unless you are sure of the part of the coast you are on ; for you may, otherwise,
when bound for Halifax, fall unexpectedly into Margaret's or Mahonc Uay, and thus be
caught with a S.E, wind.

At the entrance of the harbours and rivers on the coast, salmon is taken from April until
August ; and, from one to two or three leagues out to sea, cod, halibut, pollock, haddock,
rays, and mackarel. Herrings are taken in the bays and harbours, in tlie months of June
and July, and tom-cod all the year round.

The weather on the coast is frequently foggy in the spring and some part of the sum-
mer ; in particular at ilie distance of four or five leagues from the shore. On approaching
nearer, the weather is found more clear ; and, with the wind from the land, it is perfectly
clear and pleasant.

III. — HALIFAX HARBOUR, and the Coast thence,

WESTWARD, to CaPE SaBLE.

DESCRIPTION OF the Coast, 8rc.— The land about the Harbour of Halifax, and a
little to the southward of it, is, in appearance, rugged and rocky, and has on it, in several
places, scrubby withered wood. Although it seems bold, yet it is not high, being to be
seen, from the quarter-deck of a 74-gun ship, at the distance of no more than 7 leagues;
excepting, however, the high lands of Le Have and Aspologon, westward of Halifax, which
are to be seen 8 leagues off. The first, which is 12 leagues W.S.W. from Cape Sambro',
appears over Cape Le Have, and like little round hills of unequal height. Aspotogon,
when bearing N.W. by N. appears directly over Margaret's Bay, 5i leagues westward from
Cape Sambro' : it is rather a long high land, nearly level at the top, and rising above the
land near it. When bearing north, distant between 5 and 6 leagues, Sambro' lighthouse
will bear E.N.E. distant 7 leagues.

The lighthouse on Sambro' Island is remarkable, it being a high tower on that island,
which is small and rocky, lying 3J miles to the S.W. from Chebucto Head, on the S.W.
side of the entrance into Halifax Harbour.* Chebucto Head has a remarkably rocky and
barren appearance.

There are three other lighthouses on the coast, westward of that of Sambro'j the first is
on Cross Island, off Lunenburg Harbour, with two lights placed vertically, and 30 feet
apart; the lower light fixed, and the upper showing a flash at intervals of v minute: the

property to an immense amount. The materials of five vessels, and the cargoes of two, have been
mostly landed on the island by the establishment. Several tons of property have been carted over
the island, some fourteen miles, and all re-shipped ; and there is now on the island between two and
three thousand pounds' worth of property ready for shipping, besides as much more that was saved
on the island and taken to New York. One hundred and nine persons have been saved, and fed,
some of them six weeks, and some of them three months and a half. — Some of us are sometimes
sick; we generally work until ten o'clock at night; we are all desirous to make something extra, by
shingle-making and boat-building, which, if we can do, and not be thought unprofitable servants, I
for one shall think myself fortunate."

Such is the statement of a benevolent and excellent individual ; of a man whose meritorious con-
duct is honourable, not only to himself, but to the human race. , ; '

* The appearance of it is given on the Chart of Nova Scotia, • • >;' :

>va Scotian
;enerally of
licse banks
toin. Tlie
illjoms, fine
vcslward to
f 18 and tS

1 roast, be-
Hular, fnim
;J5 faihoms,
tore in such
, otherwise,
uid thus be

I April until
;k, haddock,
iths of June

of the sum-
approaching
is perfectly

THENCE,

alifax, and a
it, in several
being to be
n 7 leagues;
alifax, which
»pe Sambro*,
Aspotogon,
estward from
ng above llie
o' lighthouse

that island,
Ion the S.VV.
|ly rocky and

'; the first is
and 30 feet
minute : the

vo, have been
jn carted over
Iwccn two and
lat was saved
ived, and fed,
lire sometimes
fjing extra, by
ble servants, I

eritorious con-

11 A LF FAX llAUliOUR.

171

Mcond on Coffin's Island, at the entrance of Liverpool Hay : the third Is on Cape Rose-
way, at the entrance of Sheiburne Harbour. The lantern of Sambro' lighthouse, exhibiting
ay»\r(?</ li^ht, is elevated 'iW (vet al)ove the level of the >c&\ while the light on Coffin's
Island is only 90 feet; the latter is revolving, and appears full at intervals of two minutes:
the lighthouse on Cipe UoMevvay exhibits two lights, there being a small fixed liuht at about
one-third from tin lop of the building, which distinguishes it from that on Cross Island.
Cape Iloscway is about iJO leagues to the W.S.W. fiom the lighthouse of Sambro'.

XAZiZFAX KARBOUR.— The harbour of Ilnlifax is one of the finest in Dritish
America. A thousand vessels may ride in it in safety. It is easy of approach, and acces-
sible at all seasons. Its direction is nearly north and south, and its length twelve miles.
Its upper part, called nr.DFOuu Masin, funned as shown in the chart, is a beautiful stieet
of water, containing about eight s(|uare miles of good nnchorage.

On the eastern side of the entrance is the cultivated island now called l\Tac Nab^ii, for-
merly CornuMtllh hland, a name which, in propriety, it ought to have retained. Above
this, and nearly in the centre of the harbour, is a conical islet, culled George Isluiul. The
latter, which has a tower on il, is fortified, and protects tlie city of Halifax.

On a spit of gravel, called Maupher's Beach, extending toward Point Sandwich from
Mac Nab's Island, there is now a lighthouse, called Sherbraok Tuxvcr, intended for the
express purpose of leading vessels up the harbour, clear of the shoals hereafter described.
This useful light appears of a red colour, and is .')8 feet high above the level of the sea.
Originally it was obscured on the eatitcrn side, but lately has been made visible from every
point of the compass.

Northward of Maugher's Beach, in the cove now called Mac Nab's Cove, is good an-
chorage in from 9 to 4 faihoms, mud. The best spot is in 7 fathoms, with tlie beach and
Point Sandwich in a line, and ihe lower on George hland touching the N.W. part of
Mac Nab's Island.

The promontory called Cueuucto Head, bounds the enliance of llie harbour on the
west. At 3i miles above this head, on ihe western side, is a singular indent, called
IIerrikoCovk, occupied by about forty Irish families, who subsist by fishing and piloting.
Small vessels here lie perfectly sheltered in shoal water. The coast between this and
Chebucto Head is wholly of rock.*

HALIFAX^ the third town of British America, is situate at the distance of eight miles
above Chebucto Head, on the western side of the harbour, and upon the declivity of a hill,
(Citadel Hill,) which rises 240 feet above the level of the sea, and has on its summit three
flagstafTs, serving as an excellent mark for the harbour. In its recently improved state,
Halifax has not less than 14,500 inhahitants. It is a free warehousing port, and contains
two episcopal churches, two presbyterian, and two baptist meeting-houses, with three
chapels, one Roman Catholic, one methodist, and one Sandemanian. Its other public
structures are the government-house and the provincial hall; the latter is a fine structure.

The naval yard is above the town: the commissioner's house and other buildings are
its ornaments. As a government establishment, it is, of course, in excellent order.
To the northward of it is a naval hospital, with its requisite appendages. On the hill,
above the hospital, is a square stone building, the residence of the naval commander-in-
chief. The Citadel Hill, over the town, commands a prospect of the harbour and sur-
rounding country. f

The village of Dautmou rii, opposite to Ilalifiix, is thinly settled ; but the lands behind

* " Sept. 7, 1831, arrived at Halifax. On this coast I have observed much dew fall. The wind
generally hauls round to the southward about noon." — lidw. Dunsterville.

f The latitude of the naval yard of Halifax, from observations very carefully made by the officers
of H.M. ship Niemen, in 1822, was 44° 39' 37". This was gained by eleven meridian altitudes with
the artificial horizon, and several observations made on each side of noon at small intervals; the
mean true altitudes being computed from the hour angles. The longitude, 63° 33' 43", was obtained
as the mean result of more than thirty sets of lunar distances. These observations were made at
considerable varieties of temperature, for whic'i corrections were applied, and the index errors of the
iiextants were carefully ascertained at each observation.— ('A/r. E. Sabben.)

We formerly gave the longitude from M. des Barres, &c. at 63° 32' 40"; and therefore presume
that a statement of 63° 37' 48", which has lately appeared, is four minutes too far west.

172

HALIFAX HAKBOUll.

^■v,f,

it are in a very improving state, and there are some fine farms belonging to the descendants
of the original German settlers.*

The Lighthouse of Sambro', already noticed, has seven lamps, and exhibits di fixed
light. Its lantern is elevated 210 feet above the level of the sea. A small party of artil-
lery are stationed here, to attend to signals, with two twenty-four pounders, as alarm-guns:
by' the attention of these men several shipwrecks, it is said, have already been prevenied.f

Within and about two miles from the lighthouse there are several dangers, generally
known under the name of the Eastern and Western Ledges. Of these the westernmost
is the Bull, a rock above water, whicli lies aboiu three-quarters of a mile S.E. by E.from
Pendant Point, with the lighthouse bearing E. 7" 8., 2^ miles.

To the southeastward of the Bull, at the distance of a mile, lies the ledge called the
Horses, with the lighthouse bearing E. by N. one mile and three-quarters distant.

The S.W. rock or ledge lies with the lighthouse N.E. IJ mile.

The Henf.rcy Rock, with 8 feet over it, lies with the lighthouse N.N.W. f W. 2 miles.
To the E.N.E., at a mile from this, is another, the Lockwood^ of 12 feet. Both are, of
course, exceedingly dangerous to those approaching within a short distance.

The Sisters, or Black Rocks, commonly called the Eastern Ledge, lie to the E.S.E.
three-quarters of a mile from the lighthouse. Chebucto Head N.N.E. will clear them to
the eastward.

Besides the rocks above described, the Bell, a rock of 18 feet lies at a quarter of a
mile from shore, with the extremity of Chebucto Head N. by E. i E. {North] three-
quarters of a mile.

Within the line of Chebucto Head, on the S.W., and Devil's Island on the N.E.,
are several rocks and ledges, but the situation of each is marked by a buoy, as shown on
the Charts. Of these the first is Hock Head, which lies with Chebucto Head S.W. 2^
miles, and Devil's Island N.E. ^ E. 2^ miles.

The second is the Thrum Cap, a reef which extends from the south end of Mac Nab's
Island, and which occasioned the melancholy loss of the Tribune frigate, with 250 brave
men, on proceeding from the harbour to the eastward. The thwart-mark to clear it is, the
easternmost land kept in sight from the deck, a ship's length clear to the southward of
Devil's Island, and bearing about E.N.E. or E. by N., when steering west or W. by S.,
according to the distance of the ship from the island.

The Lichfield Hock, which lies toward the western side, has only 16 feet over it at low
water. The marks for it are, George's Island just open to the eastward of Point Sandwich,
and the passage between the Devil's Island and main open, bearing E. by N.

Above the Lichfield Rock, on the same side, at a mile above it, is the rock called Mars'
Bock. It lies wiih Point Sandwich bearing north, half a mile, and nearly in a line with it
and the west side of George Island.

A reef, called the Horse-Shoe, extends from Maugher's Beach, on the west side of Mac
Nab's Island. It is dangerous, and must be carefully avoided.

Half-way between Maugher's Beach and George Island, on the opposite side, is a shoal,
extending to the S.E. from Point Pleasant, nearly one-third of the channel over, but having
a buoy on its extremity. The thwart-mark for the buoy is a little islet, (on the west shore,
at the entrance of the N.W. arm,) with a remarkable stone upon the hill, appearing like a
coach-box, and bearing W.S.W.

Between Maugher's Beach and Point Pleasant shoal, is a middle ground of 4^ and 5
fathoms, distinguished by a buoy. This middle ground extends north and south a cable's
length, and is about 30 fathoms broad : as you fall ofi* to the eastward of it, there may be

* It is stated by a writer in the Nautical Magazine, 1838, p. 531, that snakes are found in this
harbour. — " It is known, from ocular proof, that in Halifax Harbour, in Nova Scotia, snakes are
sometimes found, swimming, or rather gliding through the water, during the fervid heat of summer,
which, while it lasts, is little inferior in intensity to that of the Gulf of Bengal. We have ourselves
captured two snakes, in tlie act of creeping out of the water into the lower deck ports of a ship of the
line, whilst lying in the port just named; and in no part of the world, whether inter or extra-
tropical, have we seen so many of the Ophidian race, as on the Dartmouth side of that harbour."

f See the particular chart of the Harbour and Environs of Halifax.

icendants

s ^ fixed
' of artil-
irm-guns:
evented .'t'

generally
!Sternmost
)y E. from

called the

It.

V. 2 miles,
oth are, of

the E.S.E.
ir them to

uarter of a
)rth'\ three-

n the N.E.,
IS shown on

id s.w. n

Mac Nab's

h 250 brave

!ar it is, the

uthward of

r W. by S.,

rer it at low
It Sandwich,

lalled Man'
lline with it

lide of Mac

is a shoal,

J but having

(west shore,

iring like a

HALIFAX HARBOUR.

173

If 42

J and 5
a cable's
re may be

lund in this
snakes are
I of summer,
Ve ourselves
, ship of the
er or extra-
arbour."

found from 7 to 13 fathoms, muddy bottom. On the west side are from 10 to 14 fathoms,
coarse and rocky bottom.

J?e/rf'a Rock, having 12 feet over it, lies in-shore, about half-v/ay between Point Pleasant
and the south part of Halifax. The thwart-mark for it is, a farm-house in the wood over a
black rock on ilie shore, bearing W. by S. Opposite to lleid's Hock is a buoy on the spit,
extending from the N.W. end of Mac Nab's Island.

DIRECTIONS FOR TUE IIAIIBOUR.— On approaching the Harbour of Halifax from
the westward, advance to the eastward, so as to pass the lighthouse at the distance of a
league; taking care not to approach too near to the Heneraj or Lockwood Rocks, already
described. VVhen the lighthouse bears N.N.VV. J W. you will be in a line with the
Ilenercy Ilock, and with it N.W. J VV. in a line with the Lockwood. With the lighthouse
W.N.VV. you will be clear to the northward of both, and may proceed N. by E. 4 miles;
which brings you off Chebucto Head. Here you will bring the leading mark on, which is
the flag-staffs on Citadel Hill open of Point Sandwich, and bearing N. by W.; and, by
keeping them thus open, you will pass clear of the Lichfield and Mars' Rocks on the west,
as well as of the Rock Head and Thrum Cap on the east. When nearly up to Sandwich
Point, which is bold-to, keep Chebucto Head well in sight, without that point; and this
direction, kept on, will lead in the fairway up to George Island, leaving Point Pleasant
Shoals on the left, and the Horse-Shoe, or Shoal of Mac Nab's Island, on the right.

Or, when abreast of Chebucto Head, or \?hen Sambro' Light bears W.S.W., the Light
on Maugher's Beach should never be brought to the westward of north. Keeping the light
from north to N. by E. will lead clear of the Thrum Cap Shoal, from the buoy on which the
lighthouse bears N. J W.

Those advancing from the westward will see the light on Maugher's Beach when they
are as far to the eastward as Chebucto Head, by keeping it open well on the starboard bow;
it will then lead them up to the beach.

George Island may be passed on either side, and you may choose your anchorage at
pleasure, in from 13 to 6 fathoms, muddy bottom. From George Island to the head of
Bedford Basin there is no obstruction to shipping.

Ships of war usually anchor off the Naval Yard, which may be distinguished at a dis-
tance by the masting sheers. Merchant- vessels discharge and take in their cargoes at the
town wharfs.

Small vessels, from the eastward, occasionally proceed to Halifax by the &.E. passage,
within Mac Nab's Island. On the shoalest part of the bar of sand, which obstructs this
passage, there is, however, but 8 feet at low water. Above the bar the depth increases to
5 and 10 fathoms, bottom of mud.

On Entering the Harbour from the Eastward, especially with an easterly wind,
particular caution must be taken to avoid the Thrum Cap and Rock Head. In proceeding this
way, steer west, W.N.W., or N.W., according to the wind and your distance from the shoals,
until George Island, up the Harbour, is open a sail's breadth to the westward of Mac Nab's
Island ; then haul up for Sandwich Point and York Redoubt, until you see the steeple of
St. Paul's Church, in Halifax, a ship's length open to the eastward of Judge Brenton's
house, a remarkable one, fronting the south. This mark, kept on, will lead clear of Point
Pleasant Shoal, and in a fairway between Maugher's Beach and Sandy Point ; whence
you may steer directly for George Island, and pass in on the east side, if the wind will
permit.

In turning to windward, give the upper or inner part of Maugher's Beach a berth of one
cable's length, in order to avoid the Horse-Shoe Spit, that runs from the north part of the
beach to the distance of one cable and a halPs length. You may stand to the Sandwich
Point side to within two ships' length, that being bold-to; but stand no farther over to the
westward, to avoid Point Pleasant Shoals, than keeping St. Paul's Church open to the east-
ward of Judge Brenton's house, on the south shore, as above-mentioned.

When arrived thus far, put in stays; and, standing to the eastward, keep Little Thrum
Cap Island, (now Carrol's,) a red bluff, open of Mac Nab's Island : having this mark on,
put in stays again, and you will thus go clear of the N.W. spit of Mac Nab's Island.*

'" i

• It has been formerly notice'',, that the great difficulty of making Halifax from the eastward,
particularly in the winter !>eason, is in consequence of the winds being too frequently from the

174 HALIFAX HARBOUR.

Mr. Jeffery says—" In making Halifax Harbour, the land to the westward appears white,
and to the eastward red. If from the westward, give Sambro' light a berth of a league,
until it bears N.W. by W.; then steer northerly, until the flagstaff on Citadel Hill comes
just open of Sandwich Point, bearing about N. J W. After passing Sandwich Point, keep
Chebucto Head N. ^ E.

'• If from the eastward, keep Sambro' light in sight, in order to avoid the Rock Head,
imtil the leading marks come on.

" From George Island to Maugiier's Beach Light is S. f W. 2^ miles : from Maugher's
Beach to Chebucto Head, S. by W. 5 miles.

" Buoys. — Rock Head, white and black ; Lichfield, white ; Mars, while ; Thrum Cap,
red; Point Pleasant, white; Reid's Ruck, red.

" In working here, shut in the Citadel flagstaff with Sandwich Point, in order to clear
the Mars and Lichfield; and to clear Rock Head and Thrum Cap, keep George's Island
open of Mac Nab 's Island. When Sambro' lighthouse is a ship's length open of Chebucto
Head, you are clear of Rock Head : the lighthouse just appearing is the mark for the rock."

The little harbour, or cove, called Catch Harbour, which lies to the westward of
Chebucto Head, has a bar across the entrance, having 9 feet over it at low water, with
breakers when the wind blows on the shore. Within it are 3 and 3| fathoms. In 1817,
twenty families were settled here, and supported, principally, by supplying the market of
Halifax with fish.

On proceeding toward Halifax, in H.M. sloop Ranger, in the month of May, 1831,
Mr. Dunsterville writes thus : — «* In latitude 43°, long, 64°, sounded in from 45 to 60
fathoms, coarse sand, pebble stones, and broken shells. In 45 fathoms [on Le Have
Bank,] it was rocky bottom. In running to the northward, deepened the water to 120
fathoms, muddy bottom. Weather thick and foggy, with light winds from the southward.

" In approaching the land of Nova Scotia, do not come into less than 50 fathoms, for
though there may be a dense fog in the offing, yet near and over the land it is frequently
clear; therefore, by sounding frequently, you may, even in a fojr, approach the coast; and
if you suppose yourself near Sambro' lighthouse, by firing a gun it will be answered, and a
pilot will very soon offer. The lighthouse is remarkable, and may be seen, from seaward,
at 3 to 4 leagues off. The land about Halifax is of moderate height, and may be seen at
about six leagues. Citadel Hill, over the town, may proodijly be seen much farther: this
is where the signals are made for all vessels in the offing. The light on Maugher's Beach
kept between N. by E. and north, will lead you clear to the westward of the Thrum Cap,
which is a most dangerous shoal. Chebucto Head, which is barren and bold, bearing N.W.,
clears all the dangers lying to the S.W.

" It is worthy of observation, that, in approaching the land near Halifax, in thick weather,
when it is just perceptible, the colour of the cliffs eastward of the harbour is red, and to the
westward w/iile."

The following remarks, on proceeding eastward to the Gut of Canso, are by Mr.
H. Davy : —

" H.M.S CorimalUs, June 4, 1838.— Wind north, with fine weather; sailed for the
Gut of Canso. Passed out between the Thrum Cap and Rock Head shoals, to within a
cable's length of the Thrnm Cap buoy, having 10 fathoms of water. This cliannel is quite
safe. Being thus clear, E.S.E. 27 miles, led us to the southward of the Jedore shoals;
then east for White Head, wind and weather looking favourable.

" Just to the eastward of Cold Harbour is a remarkably red cliff', making in a well-
formed saddle ; the red is bright, and the eastern coast is easily recognised thereby ; while
the coast to the westward of Halifax is known by its white cliffs. Strangers running from

W.S.VV. to N.W., and blowing so hard as to reduce a ship to very low canvas, if not to bare poles;
and should the wind come to the eastward, it is invariably attended with such thick weather as to
prevent an observation, or seeing to any great distance; hence, under such circumstances, it would
be imprudent to run for the shore, more particularly in winter, when the easterly winds are at-
tended with sleet and snow, which lodge about the masts, sails, rigging, and every part of the sliip,
becoming a solid body of ice so soon as tlie wind shifts round to the N.W.; which it does suddenly
from the eastward. These are circumstances of real diillculty : and it has lieen recommended, in
such a case, to run far to the southwestward, (avoiding the Gulf Stream,) and thence from the s!w.
coast, to keep the shore on board, all the way to Halifax.

s white,

league,

I comes

ni, keep

k Head,

aughet's
um Cap,

r to clear
;'s Island
;jhebuclo
he rock."

itward of
iter, with
In 1817,
market of

ay, 1831,
I 45 to 60
Le Have
er to 120
lUthward.

horns, for

frequently

oast; and

|red, and a

seaward,

36 seen at

ler: this

's Beach

rum Cap,

N.VV.,

COAST WESTWAKD OF HALIFAX.

175

Jedore to Canso, should not appro.ich the coast nearer than 10 miles, until abreast of
Torbay. This is a spacious bay, having Berry Head at its western point, and Cape Mar-
tingo its eastern, five miles apart. White Head Island, immediately to the eastward of
Torbay, is the most remarkable land on the coast, and is as a beacon to the pilot; it stands
well out, and from the westward terminates the eastern view. Being ten miles soulh of it,
steer N.E. by E. for Canso lighthouse, a tall white building, which makes well out to sea-
ward, on a small, low isle, called Cranberry hland, and exhibits a good fixed light. The
lighthouse must be brought to bear west, before keeping away; then steer N.N.W. until
George Island bears west; then N.W. and N.N.W. for Cape Argos, avoiding the Cerberus
Shoaty which is very dangerous, and directly in the track. Leave it on the larboard hand.
Cape Argos is the outermost S.E. point of the Gut of Canso; it is bold to approach, and
makes like a round island."— JVauf. Mag. Mai/, 1839.

Mr. Jeffery says, •« We left Haliftix on the 5th July, 1836, with a S.W. wind, moderate
and clear weather over the land. At about 5 miles off, we ran into a thick fog, which con-
tinued all night, and till near noon of the next day, when it »vas found tliat we had been
set thirty miles to the eastward in 24 hours. We had no sight of the land,' as it was
obscured by the haze, but soundings agreed with the chronometer. In thick weather a ship
should never go into less than 60 fathoms, between Halifax and Canso ; for, while in that
depth, she Avill always be eight miles from any danger."

GENERAL REMARKS on the COAST WESTWARD.

From Halifax, westward, to Margaret's Bay, the country appears, from the offing, very
rocky and broken ; the shore is steep-to, and bounded with white rocky cliffs. The high
lands of Aspotogon, on the eastern side of Mahone Bay, are most remarkable; the summit
is very conspicuous; it is 438 feet high, and may be seen at the distance of 7 or 8 leagues.
Proceeding westward from Mahone I3ay, the rocks which surround the shore are black,
with some banks of red earth. Cape le Have is an abrupt cliff, 107 feet high above the
sea : it is bald on the top, with a red bank under it, facing the southwestward. Between
this Ca[)e and Port Medway, there are some hummocks within land, about which the
country appears low and level from the sea ; and on the shore, white rocks and stony
beaches, with several low bald points: hence to Shelburne Harbour the land is woody.
About the entrance of Port Latour, and within land, are several barren spots, which, from
the offing, are easily discerned ; thence, to Cape Sable, the land appears level and low, and
on the shore are some cliffs of exceedingly white sand, particularly in the entrance of Port
Latour, and on Cape Sable, where they are very conspicuous from sea.

]iii I

weather,
ind to the

; by Mr.

[ for the

within a

il is quite

e shoals ;

a well-
; while
from

|are poles ;
^her as to
it would
Is are at-
the ship,
J suddenly
lended, in
1 the S.W.

Bearings and Distances of Places between Halifax and

Cape Sable, &c.

From Sambro' Lighthouse to Magnetic. Miles. True.

ChebuctoHead N.E. — SJ.. N.N.E. ^ E.

Three Fathoms Harbour E.N.E. —15 -. N.E. i N.

Jedore Head E.N.E. ^ E. —23 •• N.E. by E.

Jedore Outer Ledge East. — 25J •• E.N.R.'^'E.

CapeLeHave W. ^ S. —36 • • S.W. by W." f W.

Liverpool Lighthouse W. by S. — 52 • • S.W. by W. i W.

Liverpool Lighthouse to

Cape le Have E.N.E. i E. —16 .. N.E.fE.

Pudding.pan Island E.N. E. ^ E. — 3 J • • N. 60° E.

Liverpool Western Head S.W. _ 3 •• S.S.W. ^ W.

Liverpool Fort Point N.W. by W. ^ W. — 3i • • W. by N.

Isle Hope S.W. i S. — U •• S.S.W.JW.

Shelburne Lighthouse to •

Berry Point N.E. iN. — 2^ .. N.N.E.

the South end of the Westernmost

Rugged Island E.N.E. i E. — 7^-. N.E. by E.

Thomas' or Eastern Rugged Island E. J N. — lOj.. E.N.E.

176 BETWEEN HALIFAX AND CAPE

Shelburne Lighthouse to Magnetic,

the S.W. Breaker of Rugged Island E.S.F. i R.

the Jig Rock (6 feet) S. by K. J li. -

CapeNegro S.VV. j S.

Cape Sable to

Baccaro Point E.N.E. J E.

the Bantam Rock East.

the Brasil Rock S.E.byE.

the Blonde Rock W. i N.

the South Reef of Seal Island W. by N.

the North end of Seal Island W.N.W.

SABLE.

Miles.

TfUf. ~

■ 7i ..

E. \ S.

• 1 ..

S.S.E. 1 E.

. 8 ••

S.S.W.

• 7i ..

N.E. byE. i E.

■ 7 ..

E.N. E. 1 E.

■ 8i ..

E.S.E.iE.

• 16J ..

W. by S.

- 16^ ••

W.iS.

-17 ••

W.|N.

DESCRIPTION and DIRECTIONS.

SAMBRO' HARBOUR.— The Harbour of Sambro', which has thirty families on its
borders, lies at one mile and three-quarters to the N.N.W. of the Lighthouse Island. OS
its entrance is the Bull Rock, already noticed, and there are two other rocks between the
latter and Sambro' Island. The best channel into it is, therefore, between Pendant Point
and the Bull Rock; but vessels from the eastward may run up between Sambro' Island and
the Inner Rock. Within the entrance is an islet, called the Isle of Man, which is to be
left, when sailing inward, on the left, or larboard hand. The anchorage is above this islet,
in 3 fathoms, muddy bottom. This is a place of safety for, and much resorted to by
coasters, in bad weather.

PENDANT HARBOUR, (Port Affleck of Bes Barres,) the next to the westward of
Sambro', has good anchoring ground. The islands on the west side of it are bold-to, and
the ground is likewise good. The depths are from 1 to 5 fathoms.

TENANT BAY, (or Bristol Bay,) between Pendant Harbour and Tenant Basin,*
presents to the eye of the stranger the rudest features of nature. It is obstructed by several
rocks and islets, but, once gained, it is extensive and safe; and in bad weather, (the only
time vessels of consequence should enter it,) the dangers show themselves. The tide flows
here, on the full and change days, at 7| h. and rises about 8 feet.

PROSPECT HARBOUR.— Tliis Harbour is about three miles westward of Tenant
Bay, and is separated therefrom by a large cluster of islets and broken land, the outer
extremity of which is named Cape Prospect, or Mars^ Head. On advancing, the appear-
ance is rugged ; but the harbour is extensive and safe; and, in rough weather, the dangers
in the vicinity show themselves. The inhabitants, about twelve families, are settled on ihe
left or western side, and subsist by the fishery. Two small islands on that side form a little
cove, and on these are the stages.

The eastern channel is between Prospect and Betsey's Islands ; and, to avoid all danger,
you ought to keep more than half a mile from the land, and in 20 and 21 fathoms water,
off Cape Prospect, as there is a 17-feet rock about one-third of a mile south of the Cape,
and within which there is no good channel.

The western entrance is between an islet, called Hobsoii's Nose, on the S.E., and a rock,
named Dorman Rock, on the N.W. There is a breaker, with 3 fathoms over it, at the dis-
tance of two cables' length to the east of the latter. Within the harbour there is a good
anchorage for the largest ships; and, for smaller vessels, in 4 fathoms, where the bottom is
of stiff blue clay.

SHAG HARBOUR, (Leith Harbour of Des Barres,) is the next westward of Prospect
Harbour; it is the N.E. arm of an inlet, of which the N.W, arm is Blind Bay, in both of
which excellent anchorage may be found. In the common entrance without, lies, without
the Hog, a sunken rock, having only 6 feet of water over it. This rock bears S.E. \ E.
nearly a mile and a half from Taylor's Island, (Inchkeith.) In rough weather, with the
wind on-shore, the sea breaks over it ; and, in fair weather, it may be perceived by the
rippling of the tide. There is a good channel on either side. That on the west side is
most difHcult, there being a ledge extending half a mile toward it, from the eastern extre-
mity of Taylor's Island.

Shuldham Harbour of Des Barres.

MAUGARETS BAY

177

'enant
outer

anger,
water,
Cape,

rock,
le dis*

good
lom is

ospect
n)oth of
,ithout
*E.
jth the
Iby the
»de is
1 extre-

DOVEll PORT lies on the western side of the entrance to Blind Bay. It is formed
by Taylor's Island, and several other islands. The best passage in is to the eastward of
these, giving them a moderate berth. The anchorage is within the body of Taylor's Island,
in 10, 9, or 7 fathoms; bottom of mud. In sailing in, give a berth to the reef, which
extends S.E. half a mile from Taylor's Island,

Betwei.,1 the Harbour of Halifax and this place, the coasts are craggy, broken, and
barren : the shore iron-bound and steep, and a tree is scarcely to be seen. Fish, however,
are abundant, and the harbours are most conveniently situated for the fishery.

nXAROABET'S SAY, — This bay is a beautiful sheet of water, about 2.5 miles
in circumference, in length nine, and two rni' :\s wide at the entrance. On every side
are harbours capable of receiving ships of the line, even against the sides of the shores.
To the west of the entrance stands the High Land of Aspotogon, already noticed, the
summit of which, bearing N.W., leads directly to the mouth of the Bay. The shores
at the entrance are high white rocks, and steep-to. On the western side is a narrow
islet, called Southwest or Hoiderness Isle, the south point of which, according to M. des
Barres, lies in latitude 44*^ 34' 25', and longitude 63° 57'. This islet is a body of rock,
about 50 feet in height, and bold-to on all sides.*

On the Eastern side of the Entrance, at 300 yards from East Foint, is a rock uncovered
at low water : and there is, at a mile and a half south from Southwest Island, a ledge
called the Horse-shoe, almost covered and surrounded with breakers, and which bears from
the south point of Taylor's Island VV. by N., 4 J miles : the depths around it are 6 and 8
fathoms.

On the Eastern side of the Bay, at 2]- miles to the northward of East or May Point,
is an irregular projection called Peggi/'s Foint. At a mile beyond this is an isle named
Shut-in Island, w\\ic\\ is 208 feet high, covered with wood, and bold-to; but there are
two ledges between it and the inner part of Peggy's Point, over which the deptiis are
8 and 9 feet. In a southerly gale the water is smooth on tlie lee side of the island, and
the bottom good. At a mile and a half N.E. | N. from Shut-in Island is a smaller isle,
named Luke's, forming a complete break to the sea, and used as u sheepfold. There is
good anchorage on the N.E. side of it, smooth in all seasons; and this is, therefore, a
useful place of shelter.

Within two miles northward of Luke's Isle is a cluster of islets, the Strelitz Isles of
Des Barres,f but the principal of which are now called JolUmore^s Isles. A reef extends
northeastward from the latter, and tlie land within forms the harbour called Hertford
Basin, wherein the depths are from 7 to 10 fathoms, and the anchorage is safe under the
lee of Jollimore's Isles.

Head Haiiboup., (or Delaware River,) in the N.E. corner of the Bay, is an anchorage
of the first class, and so perfect a place of safety that a fleet may be mooied in it, side by
side, and be unaffected even by a hurricane. The lands are high and broken. Ten
families were settled in the neighbourhood in 1817. The islands, at the entrance, are
used as sheepfolds.

Hubbert's Cove, {Fitzroi/ liivcr,) in the N.W. coiner of the bay, may be entered by a
stranger, by keeping the western shore on board ; and a ship dismasted or in distress may
here find perfect shelter. If without anchors, she may safely run aground, and will be
assisted by the settlers.

At the entrance of the cove, toward the eastern side, is a ridge of rocks called Ilubl^ort's
Ledge (Black Ledge); this is about 100 fatlioms in extent, and covered at high water.
It may be passed on either side, keeping the land on board, the shores being bold.

Between Hubbert's Cove and Head Harbour are several indents, with projecting rugged
points. From these places small vessels take building-sand and limestone, the latter
being of a superior quality. Salmon abound here ; and, in the lakes above, are vast
quantities of fine trout.

* At nearly half a mile E. by N. from the body of the isle, there is, however, a single rock,
having 4 lathonis over it, on which the sea breaks in rough weadier : but it can hardly be deemed a
danger.

t It has often been lamented that the bulk and price of the showy work of M. des Barres never
suffered it to come into general use ; and, consequently, the names which he assigned to different
points and places have remained generally unknown.

2 A

178 MAHONE BAY — MALAGUASH.

Long Cove, (Egremont Cove,) 2 miles to the southward of Hubbert's Cove, on tlio
western side of the bay, is a good anchorage with a westerly wind. An excellent stream,
on which is a sawmill, falls into this place. Plence, southward, the coast is bold and
rugged ; but there is no danger, excepting one small rock of six feet of water, close in-shore.

At a mile to the northward of Southwest Isle, in the entrance of the Bay, is the little
harbour called N.W. Harbour, sheltered by an islet, (Horse Isle,) and within which is
tolerable anchorage for small craft : both the channels into it are good. Several families
are settled here. Above this harbour the west shore is rugged and bold.

About 5 miles S. i W. from the point of land which separates Margaret's and Mahone
Bays,* lies Green Island. It is small, and lies 7 leagues W.N.W. | W. from abreast
of Sambro' lighthouse, in latitude 44° 27' 35", and longitude 63° 58' 30".

KABOMS BAV is divided from Margaret's Bay by the peninsula, on which stand
the high lands of Aspotogon, whose appearance, in three regular swellings, is very re-
markable at a great distance in the ofjing, being visible at more than twenty miles off.
This bay is nearly 4 leagues in extent, from N.E. to S.W., and contains numerous islands
and rocks, the largest of which. Great and Little Tancook, are on the eastern side.

Without the entrance, is Green Island, above mentioned ; anotlier small isle, called
Duck Isle, on the opposite side ; and a larger, more to the west, named Cross Island.
Between the two latter is a channel, one mile in breadth.

The Outer LedgCy which always breaks, lies at one mile and two-thirds N.E. ^ N.
from the east end of Duck Island, and W. ^ N. 3 miles from the west point of Green
Island. Another danger, the Bull Rock, lies at a mile to the southward of Great Tancook,
and bears from Green Island N.W. J W. 4J miles; from the east end of Duck Island
N. -y E. 4 miles: this rock is visible at one-third ebb, and from it the S.W. end of Flat
Island bears E. by N., 1200 fathoms distant, and the west point of Tancook Island N. by
W. a mile and three-quarters distant.

Farther up, N.W. by W., 400 fathoms distant, from the west point of Tancook Island,
lies Rocky Shoal ; within which and Tancook Island is deep water. The Coachman is a
blind ledge, a mile and a quarter north of Great Tancook, and visible at low water only.

At the head of Mahone Bay is the town of Chester, which was settled in 1760,
and is surrounded by a country of fine appearance, and abounding in wood. The inha-
bitants are industrious, and the adjacent islands covered with sheep. On approaching
the bay from the eastward, the first land seen will be Green Island, which is round, bold,
and moderately high. Ilence, to Iron-bound and Flat Islands, the distance is about 3
miles ; passing these, which are bo!d-to, you proceed to and between the Tancook Islands,
which are inhabited : the passage is good, and there is anchorage under the isles, in from
12 to 7 fathoms.

On proceeding toward Chester, the only danger is the ledge called the Coachman,
above mentioned. You will just clear the eastern side of this ledge, by keeping the east
ends of Great Tancook and Flat Island in one ; and the western side by keeping the
west end of Iron-bound Island open with the west point of Little Tancook. The islands
off the town render the harbour smooth and secure, the depth in which is from 5 to 2
fathoms.

Chester church open, on the west of Great Tancook, leads clear to the westward of the
Bull Rock, and down to Duck Island.

In Margaret's and Mahone Bays it is high water on the full and change at 8 h., and
the vertical rise is from 7 to 8 feet.

[, OR LUNENBURG HARBOUR.— This is a place of considerable
trade, and its population, in 1817, amounted to 4,200 persons. Vessels are constantly
plying between Lunenburg and Halifax, carrying to the latter cord-wood, lumber, hay,
cattle, stock, and all kinds of vegetables. The harbour is easy of access, with anchorage
to its head.

To sail in, you may pass on either side of Cross Island,t on which stands the light-

♦ Charlotte and King's Bays, in M. des Barres' Charts.

t Cross Island is the Prince of Wales's Island in M. des Barres' Charts. On the eastern point of
this isle, an octagonal light-tower was building in 1834, and it having been, more than once, mis-

CAPE LE HAVE.

179

1760,

he inha-

roaching

|nd, bold,

about 3

Islands,

in from

iderable
nstantly
f hay,
chorage

jer

Ihe light-

point of
ice, mis-

house, showing two lights placed vertically, the lower light fixed, and the upi>er showing a
flash at intervals of a minute ; the channel on the west side of the island is the best. In
sailing through the northern channel, be careful to avoid the shoals which extend from the
north side of the island, and from Colesworth Point on the opposite side. In sailing in,
through the channel to the westward of the island, steer midway between it and Point
Hose; and, before you approach the next point, which is Ovem* Point, give it a berth of
two or three cables' length ; for, around Ovens' Point is a shoal, to which you must not
approach nearer than in 7 fathoms. From Ovens* Point, N.E. three-quarters of a mile
distant, lies the Sculpin or Cat Rock, dry at low water. Your leading-mark, between
Ovens' Point and the Cat Rock is, a waggon-roadway (above the town of Lunenburg)
open to the westward of Battery Point, which mark will keep you clear of a rock of 4
fathoms at low water. The best anchoring ground is on the west shore, opposite the
middle farm-house, in 7 fathoms, muddy bottom. Your course in, is from N.N.W. to
N.W. by N. In this bay, with good ground-tackling, you may ride out a S.E. gale very
safely. The harbour, which is to the northward of the Long Rock and Battery Point, is
fit only for small ships of war and merchant-vessels. Along the wharfs are 12 and 13 feet
of water, and, at a short distance, from 20 to 24 feet, soft mud.

The latitude of Cross Island, according to some recent observations, is 44" 19'. M.
des Barres gives it as 44° 23' 25', in longitude 64° 5' 10". This island is in a state of
cultivation, and on the N.E. is a small nook, in which coasters may lie securely. The
west and south sides of the island are bold ; and, at two miles from the south side, is an
excellent fishing-bank, having over it from 14 to 17 fathoms.

From Green Island the east end of Cross Island bears W.S.W. distant 6 miles. From
the east end of Cross Island that of Iron-bound Island lies S.W. by W. i W., 6i miles:
and from the latter Cape le Have bears S.W. by W. ^ W., 4^ miles.

CAPE XiZi KAVJESf described on page 175, stands at the distance of 12^ leagues*
VV. J S. from Sambro' Lighthouse. At one mile S.E. J S. from this Cape lies the Black
or Le Have Rock, 10 feet high, and 100 long, with deep water around it, 10 to 14 fathoms :
and, at 2| miles W.S.W. J- W. from the Cape, is an elevated rocky islet, called Indian
Isle, which lies at a mile from shore, off the S.E. point of Palmerston Bay, or Broad Cove :
this point is 2| miles westward of Cape le Have.

Palmerston Bayf is two miles in breadth. At the head of it, to the N.W., is Petit
River, a settlement formed by the French, and the farms of which are in fine condition.
From Cape le Have, westward, to Medway Head, an extent of 11 miles, nearly W.S.W.
the land is, altogether, broken and craggy.

PORT MEDWAY, or Metway.— Medway Head, (Admiralty Head of Des Barres,) at
the entrance of this port, is laid down in latitude 44° 10', and longitude 64° 29'. The
entrance may be known by a hill on the head, and a long range of low mgged islands
extending true south, forming its eastern side: it is seven-eighths of a mile broad, and
has a depth of 10 to 4 fathoms. This port is now considerable, both in its navigable
capacity and its consequence as a fishery: in 1817 it contained fifty families, or 276
persons. Five sawmills, on the river above, are constantly employed.

The land to the eastward of the harbour is remarkably broken and hilly. The Southwett
Ledge, or outer breaker, on the starboard side, without the entrance, lies S.E. J S. about
a mile and a half from Medway Head. The Stone Horse, a rock dry at_low water, lies
E. by S, one-third of a mile from the S.W. breaker.

When approaching from the eastward, you will avoid the S.W. Ledge, on which the
sea breaks in rough weather, by keeping the lighthouse on Coffin Island open of the
land to the eastward of it. The course up the harbour is N, ^ E. and W.N.W.

taken for that of Sambro', a St. Andrew's cross was painted on it, as its distinguishing character-
istic ; but as this did not sufficiently answer the purpose, the tower and keeper's house have since
been painted red; the lantern black. The delay and want of decision in some such cases as this,
do no honour to those immediately connected with them. The light was first exhibited on Decem-
ber 1st, 1839.

• Not eighteen leagues, as stated by Mr. Lockwood.

f Mr. Lockwood says, " What Des Barres calls Palmerston Bay." In all instances of places not
previously named, we see no good reason why a name, once imparted, and not an improper one,
should not be established. We have, therefore, retained several names imparled by M. des Banes,
wliich do not appear in some late charts.

180

LIVFRPOOI. BAY PORT MOUTO\.

ZfZVXl&POOZi BAY.— M'e«/er« Head* on the S.W. of the entrance of LrvER-
I'OOL Bay, is represented in latitude 43" 59', and longitude 64° 3R'.

This bay has room sufficient for turning to windward, and affords good anchorage
for large ships with an off-shore wind. Tiie deepest water is on the western shore.
Western Head, or Bald Point, at the entrance, is bold-to, and is remarkable, having no
trees on it. Herring Cove, on the north side of the bay, affords good shelter from sea
winds, in 3 fathoms, muddy bottom, but it is much exposed to a heavy swell, and has
not room for more than two sloojis of war. At high water, vessels of two and three
hundred tons may run up over the bar into tlie harbour: but at low water there are only
10 feet over it. The channel, within, winds with the southern shore, and the settlements
of Liverpool upward.

The entrance bears W. by S, eighteen leagues from Sambro' Lighthouse,-! and VV.S.W.
J W. 16 J miles from Cape Ic Have. Coffin's Island, which lies without it, is distinguished
by the lighthouse already noticed, and which exhibits a light revolving once in every two
minutes. The laud in the vicinity of the harbour is generally rocky and barren, yet the
commercial spirit of the people has raised the town to respectability and opulence, and
they trade to every part of the West Indies. The lumber trade and lishery are flourishing,
and the population exceeds •1,'300 persons.

In Port Medway, and Liverpool Hay, it is high water, on the full and change, at fifty
minutes past seven, and the vertical rise is from 5 to 8 feet.

PORT MOUTON, or Matoon, (Gmnbier Harbour of Ves Barren,) is formed by an
island of the same name, which lies at the entrance, and therefore forms two channels.
Of the latter, that on the western side of the island is so impeded by islets and shoals,
as to leave a small passage only for small vessels, and that close to the main. At a mile
from the island, on the east, is a ridge called Uie Brazil Hacks ; and, from the N.W. end
of the island, a shoal extends to the distance of more than a mile. Within Matoon
Island, on the W.N.W., are two islands called the Spectacles, or Saddle. M. des Barres
.says, " On both sides of the Portsmouth [iiraz//] Rocks, which are always above water,
you have deep channels, and of a sufficient width for ships to turn into the harbour."
With a leading wind you may steer up W.N.W. | W., until you bring the Saddle to bear
S.W. 4" W., and haul up S.W. by W. to the anchoring ground, where there will be found
from 20 to 12 fathoms, muddy bottom, in security from all winds.

At five miles S.S.W. \ W. from the south end of Mouton Island lies an islet, surrounded
by a shoal, and named Little Hope Island. It is only 21 feet high, and 200 fathoms
in length, at 2| miles from the shore. A valuable ship was lost here, in 1815; and Mr.
Lockwood has recommended the erection of an obelisk, or beacon, upon the isle, which
would be of great advantage to the coasters, and to all who approach the coast.

PORT JOLIE. — The next harbour, west of Little Hope Isle, is Port Jolie, (Stormont
River of Des Barres, and Little Port Jolly of others,) which extends five miles inland,
but is altogether very shoal, and has scarcely sufficient water for large boats. The lands
here are stony and barren, but eleven families are maintained by fishing. Between this
liarbour and Hope Isle are several ledges, which show themselves, and there is a sheal
spot nearly midway between the isle and the main.

PORT IIEBERT, or Great Port Jolie, (Port Mansfield of Des Barres,) may be
distinguished by the steep head on the west. Its eastern point, Point Heberi, lies in
latitude 43° 51', and longitude 64° 51' 20". At half a league to the S.W., without the
entrance, is an islet, called Green Island, which is remarkable, and destitute of wood.
The only anchorage here, for large vessels, is in the mouth of the harbour. Above are
flats, with narrow winding channels through the mud. Fifteen families are settled in
the port,

SABLE RIVER {Penton River of Des Barres) is impeded by a bar which admits no
vessels larger than small fishers. The country is sterile, but eleven families are settled
here, A reef lies opposite to the middle of the entrance.

RUGGED ISLAND HARBOUR (Port Mills of Des Barres) takes its name from
its rugged appearance, and the numerous sunken rocks and ledges about it. This place

* Western Head is the Bald Point of M. des Banes.

t Mr. Lockwood says 25 leagues from Cape Sambro', but this is clearly a mistake.

SHELBUHNE HARBOUR.

181

lay be
lies in
ut the
wood.
ve are
led in

lits no
settled

from
place

is seldom resorted to, unless by the fishermen, although, within, the anchorage is good,
in 4i and 4 fathoms. In a gale of wind, the uneven rooky ground at the entrance causes
the sea to break from side to side. At a mile from the western head is a bed of rocks,
named tiie Gull, over which the sea always breaks.

Tliomits or Ibi^ged Island, to the east of the harbour, affords a good mark for it; this
isl' id havinij high rocky cliffs on its eastern side. From its southern point sunken rocks
exiei.d to the S.VV. nearly a mile, and within these is the Tiger, a rock of only 4 feet,
lying south, half a mile from Hug Point, the eastern point of the harbour. Having cleared
these on the outside, liaul up N.N.VV for the islands on the left or western side, and so as
to avoid a shoal which stretches haU'-way over from the opposite side. Pursuing this
direction, you may proceed to the anchorage in the north arm of the harbour.

SKSXiBURNS ZIAZlBOtra, or PORT UOSEWAY— Cape lloseway, the
S.E. point of Roscneatli or Macnutt's Island, is a high cliff of white rocks, the top of
which is partly without wood. The west side of the island is low. On the Cape stands
the noble lighthouse of Shelburne, which has a remarkable appearance in the day, being
painted black and while in vertical stripes, and at night exhibits a small light below the
upper one, by which it is distinguished, at night, from the liglit of Sambro', or Halifax.
The upper light is about 150 feet above the level of the sea, and the smaller light is 36
feet below the lantern.

The latitude of this lighthouse is 43" 40' 30"; longitude, 65^ 12' 35".

This harbour is, altogether, the best in Nova Scotia, but its town has long been in a
state of decline, and some of its streets are overgrown with grass and weeds. In 1784
its population exceeded 12,000; in 1816, it had diminished to 374 persons; but, in 1828,
it had 2697.

The directions for this harbour, as given by Mr. Backhouse, are as follow. (See his Chart.)

When coming in from the ocean, after you have made the lighthouse, bring it to bear
N.W., or N.W. by N., and steer directly for it. Tlie dangers tlial lie on the east side,
going in, are the Rugged Island Rocks, a long ledge that stretches out from the shore
6 or 7 miles, the Bell Ilock, and the Straptub Rock. On the west side is the Jig Rock.
The Bell Rock is always visible and bold-to.

When you have gotten abreast of the lighthouse, steer up in mid-channel. Roseneath
Island is pretty bold-to all the way from the lighthouse to the N.W. end of the island.
When you come up half-way between George's Point and Sandy Point, be careful of
a sunken rock that runs off from that bight, on which are only 3 fathoms at low water;
keep the west shore on board to avoid it : your depth of water will be from 4, 5, to 6,
fathoms.

Sandy Point is pretty steep-to : run above this point about half a mile, and come to
anchor in 6 fathoms, muddy bottom ; if you choose, you may sail up to the upper part of
the harbour, and come to anchor in 5 fathoms, muddy bottom, about one mile and a half
from the town, below the harbour flat. This harbour would contain all his Majesty's
ships of the third-rate.

In sailing in from the eastward, be careful to avoid the Rugged Island Rocks, which
are under water; do not haul up for the harbour till the lighthouse bears from you
W. by N. ^ N. : by that means you will avoid every danger, and may proceed as taught
above.

In sailing into Shelburne from the westward, do not haul up for the lighthouse till it
bears from you N.W. by W. | W.: you will thus avoid the Jig Rock, on the west, which
lies within one mile and a quarter S. J W. from the lighthouse, and is pretty steep-to.

Should the wind take you a-head, and constrain you to ply to the windward up the
harbour, do not make too bold with the eastern shore ; for, half-way between George's
Point and Sandy Point, is a reef of sunken rocks. When you come abreast of them,
you need not stand above half-channel over to avoid them : the Hussar frigate, in plying
to windward down the harbour, had nearly touched on them. On the west shore, abreast
of Sandy Point, it is flat, therefore do not make too bold in standing over.

The ledge of rocks that his Majesty's ship Adamant struck upon, which lies abreast of
Durfey's House, is to be carefully avoided : do not stand any farther over to the west-
ward than 4^ fathoms, lest you come bounce upon the rock, as the Adamant did, and ,
lay a whole \ .i before she floated, and that not without lightening the ship. The east

/ vj

182

NEOItO HARBOUR.

shore has regular soundings, from Sandy Point upward, from 3 to 4, and 5 to 0,
fathoms, to the upper part of the harbour, where you may ride safely in five fathoms,
good holding ground. Your course up from the lighthouse in a fairway, is from
N.W. to N.W. by N.; and when you round Sandy Point, the course is thence N. by W.
and North, as you have the wind. The entrance of Shelburnc Harbour affords a refuge
to ships with the wind off-shore, (which the entrance of Halifax does not,) and there is
anchoring ground at the mouth of the harbour, when it blows too strong to ply to windward.

In sailing from the westward for Shelburne, at night, you must not haul up for the
harbour until the light bears N. by E. ) E., in order to avoid the Jig Hock ; and, when
sailing in, from the eastward, you must not haul up for the harbour till the light bears
W. by N. i N., in order to avoid the ledges that lie off the Rugged Islands, and bear
from the lighthouse E. f S. eight miles distant. You may stop a tide in the entrance of
the harbour, in from 16 to 10 fathoms, sand, and some parts clay, bottom.

Shelburne is a safe harbour against any wind, except a violent storm from the S.S.W.
At the town, the wind from S. by E. does no harm ; although, from S. by W. to S.W. by S.,
if blowing hard for any considerable time, it is apt to set the small vessels adrift at the
wharfs ; but, in the stream, with good cables and anchors, no winds can injure.

It has been observed, in * The American Coast Pilot,* that " Shelburne affords an
excellent shelter to vessels in distress, of any kind, as a small supply of cordage and duck
can, at almost any time, be had. Carpenters can be procured for repairing; pump,
block, and sail makers, also. It affords plenty of spars, and, generally, of provisions.
Water is easily obtained, and of excellent quality. The port-charges for a vessel which
puts in for supplies only, is fourpence per ton, light money, on foreign bottoms. If a
vessel enters at the custom-house, the charges are high : but that is seldom requisite."

NZiCIXlO KARSOUR {Port Amherst of Des Barres) takes its name from
Cape Negro, on the island which lies before it, in latitude 43° 32', and longitude 65° 17'.
The island is very low about the middle, and appears like two islands. The Cape itself is
remarkably high, dark, rocky, and barren, and bears S.W. § S. 7i miles* from Cape
Roseway, or Shelburne lighthouse. The best channel in is on the eastern side of the
island; but even this is impeded by two ledges, called the Gra^ Rocks and Budget; the
latter a blind rock, of only six feet, at a quarter of a mile from the island, on both sides of
which there is deep water. The Gray Rocks lie at a quarter of a mile to the northeastward
of the Budget, and serve as a mark for the harbour.

In the passage on the eastern side of the Budget, the depths are from 14 to 10 fathoms.
With Shelburne light shut in, you will be within the rocks. There is excellent anchorage
on the N.E. of Negro Island, in from 6 to 4 fathoms, bottom of stiff mud. The northern
part of the island presents a low shingly beach, and from this a bar extends over to the
eastern side of the harbour, on a part of which are only 15 feet of water. The river above
is navigable to the distance of six miles, having from 5 to 3 fathoms, bottom of clay.

The inhabitants of the harbour, in 1817, amounted to 463 persons, who subsist by
farming and fishing. They now exceed 500.

The passage on the western side of Negro Island is very intricate, having numerous
rocks, &c. ; yet, as these may be seen, it may be attempted, under cautious decision, by
a stranger, in case of distress.-}-

• Hot ffteen miles, as stated by Mr. Lockwood.

f The rocks in the vicinity of Cape Negro are not the only evils to be dreaded here. In tlie
month of December, 1818, the Mary, brig, of Cumberland, New Brunswick, on her way to Passa-
niaquoddy, struck on the Half- Moon Rocks, near Cape Negro. The vessel filled with water, and
ten of the passengers perished in less than ten minutes. Seventeen got into the boat ; but, i^ being
dark, and the sea running high, the boat was not manageable, and struck on a rock, near the
larger one called Blanche Islet, which was covered with snow. Here, a lady, Mrs. Soden, and her
seven children, with other persons, were drowned. During this time the inhabitants of Port Latour
were plundering the wreck of such clothes and baggage, belonging to the sufferers, as had escaped
the seas. The vessel was sold by public auction, and bought by some inhabitants, on condition that
the properties of the passengers should be given up to them, including what had been stolen from
the vessel ; an agreement which was evaded. Search-warrants were granted, but ineffectually, as
the accused were apprised of the intended visit, by some officers of justice, who were sharers in the
spoil.

After some weeks spent in this way, the surviving passengers were obliged to leave all with the
robbers, some of whom were of high standing in Port Latour and Barrington. (Observer, Nov. 7, 1819.)

OU!

al(

of
up\

CAFE SABLE.

183

pist by

lerous
)n, by

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Passa-

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air the
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In that

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In the

Di the
1819.)

PORT LATOU II ( For* Httldimand of Des Barres) is separated from Negro llarhour
by a narrow peninsula. The extreme points of the entrance are Jeffery Point on the east,
and Haccaro Point on the west. Uetween, and within these, are several clusters of rock,
which render the harbour fit for small craft only.

Baccaro Point is at (he entrance of this port, on the west side; the Vulture, a danger-
ous breaker, liis S.W. by \V. half a league from the point. The Hanttim liock, also half
a league S. by W. J \V. from the point, lias only 4 feet over it, at low water.

HAIlllINGTON BAY.— With the exception of the rocks off Point Baccaro, the Bay
of Harrington is clear ; but there are extensive Hats toward the head of it, and the channel
upward narrows so much, that it requires a leading wind to wind throu<,'h it to the
anchoring-ground, where the depths are from 26 to 18 feet. The town of BAniuNOTov,
seated at the head of the harbour, with its environs, contained, in 1817, a population of
987 persons, ha|)pily situated. The lands are stony, but afford excellent pasturage, and
cattle are, consequently, abundant here. During a S.W. gale, there is good shelter on the
N.E. side of Sable Island, in 5 and 4 fathoms, sandy bottom.

The Western Passaoe, or that on the N.W. side of Sable Island, is intricate, and
therefore used by small vessels only: it is not safe without a commanding breeze, as the
tide sets immediately upon the rocks, which lie scattered within it, and the ebb is forced
through to the eastward, by the bay-tide on the west, at the rate of from 3 to 5 knots.
This passage is, however, much used by the coasters.

CAPE SABIiS. — Saule Island is under tillage, and had forty-seven families
on it, comfortably situated, in 1817. CaI'e Sable is the clilf of a sandy islet, distinct
from the former; it is white, broken, evidently diminishing, and may be seen at the
distance of 5 leagues. From this islet ledges extend outward, both to the east and west;
the eastern ledge, called the Horse-shoe, extends 2.i miles S.E. by S. : the western,
or Cape Ledge, extends three miles to the S.W. The tide, both ebb and flood, sets
directly across these ledges, the flood westward. The ebb, setting with rapidity to the
N.E., causes a strong break to a considerable distance from shore. The position of the
southern point of Cape Sable has been given in latitude 43** 24', and longitude
65° 35' 30" ; but in the note on the Table of Positions, it has been shown that the position
of Seal Island has probably been given too far to the northward, and this, consequently,
has been the cause of the loss of so many ships in coming out of the Pay of Fundy."
Therefore this coast should not be approached without a commanding breeze and clear
weather. Of the stream, &c., M. des Barres says, " Here the tide runs at the rate of
three, and sometimes four, knots; and, when the wind blows fresh, a rippling extends
from the breakers southerly, to the distance of nearly three lergues, and shifts its direction
with the tide ; with the flood it is more westerly, and inclines to the eastward with the
ebb. This ripple may be dangerous to pass through in a gale, as it has all the appearance
of high breakers, although there is no less than 8, 10, 12, and 20, fathoms of water,
rocky ground. At the Cape, the tide, on full and change, flows at 8 h., and rises 9 feet."

BRASIL ROCK. — ^This rock has been variously described, but we have no doubt that
the following is correct. It is a flat rock, covering an area of about 10 yards, and having
8 feet over it, at low water, in calm^weather ; within a hundred yards from its base, are
from 6 to 8 fathoms of water: to the southward, at about a mile from the rock, the
depths are from 30 to 35 fathoms: but, toward the shore, the soundings are regular,
15 and 19 to 20 and 24 fathoms, sandy bottom. The tide, by running strongly over the
slioal ground, causes a great ripple, and makes the rock appear larger than it really is.
From Cape Negro the bearing and distance to the rock are S.S.W. true, or, S.W. | S.
by compass, 10 miles ; and, from the rock. Cape Sable bears W. by N. i N. true, or
N.W. by W. J W. by compass, 8f miles. Its given position is, latitude 43° 21' 30", or,
according to M. des Barres, 43° 24' 13"; longitude 65° 22'.

♦ The recent loss of the Columbia steam-vessel is an example of the dangerous nature of this
coast. She was proceeding from Boston towards Halifax, and on the 2nd of July, 1843, at 1 p.m.,
ran ashore on the Devil's Limb, a rock a mile and a quarter from the land, and one and a half
northward from the lighthouse on Seal Island. This disaster caused the total destruction of the
vessel, but the crew and passengers were fortunately saved. A brig went ashore on the following
day near the same spot. It was caused by an unusually strong inset into the Bay of Fundy, and
by the dense fog which prevailed at the time ; but this, and the uncertainty of the position of the
Cape, ought to have occasioned greater precaution in sounding and looking out. This, we hope, will
be a warning to all vessels to keep well to the southward of Cape Sable.

' 4

184

THE UAV OF FUNDY.

IV. — The bay of FUNDY, and thr coasts urtween
CAPE SABLE and PASSAIMAQUODDY BAY.

CISNIiaAZi OAUTZONS.— An inspection of the Ciiart uf the S.VV. coast of
Nova Scotia, and a consideration of the relative sitiiation of that coast, as exposed to tho
ocean, with the consecju'-nt and variable sol of the tiiics about it, as well as about the
Island Munan, &c., will naturally lead the mariner to consider that its navigation, in-
volving extraordinary difticullies, requires exliaordinary altention. Previous events, the
great number of ships lost hereabout, even wilhin a few years, will justify the supposition.
It is, indeed, a coast beset with peril ; but the peril may be avoided, in a great degree,
by the exercise of skill and prudence. To the want of both are to be attributed many of
the losses which have occurred here.*

In touching on this subject, Mr. Lockwood says that, the necessity of frequently
sounding with the deep-sea lead, and the expediency of having anchors and cables ready
for immediate use, cannot be loo often urged, nor too often repeated. Vessels, well
equipped ami perfect in gear, with anchors stowed, as in the middle of the Atlantic
Ocean, have been wrecked in moderate weather, and so frequently, that such gross idle-
ness cannot be too much reprobated ; and, we may add, too fully exposed.^

TZDZtS* — As the tides are most particularly to be attended to, we shall attempt
a description of them in the first instance, before we proceed to that of the coast, and the
consequent sailing directions.

The Tide about (Jape Sadlf, has been explained in tho preceding section. From
Cape Sable toward the Seal, Mud, and Tusket Isles, the flood sets to the northwestward,
at the rate of from two to three miles in an hour : in the channels of these islets its rate
increases to four or five miles. At the Seal and Mud Islands the ebb runs E. by S.,
S.E., and South; varying, however, with the figure of the lands and the direction of
the wind.

From the Tusket Isles the tide flows to the nort'nward, taking the direction of the
shore, past Ca[)e St. Mary; thence N.N.W. toward Urier's Island. The flood, therefore,
sets but .slowly up St. Mary's Bay, yet with increasing strength up the Hay of I'undy;
still greater, ns the bay narrows upward ; so that the IJasin of Mines and Chignecto Bay
are filled with vast rapidity, and here the water sometimes rises to tin; extraordinary height
of 75 feet. These tides are, however, regular; and, although the wind, in an opposite
direction, changes the direction of the rippling, and sometimes makes it dangerous, it has
little or no effect on their general courses.

The Danceks about Giiand Manan have been distinguished by wrecks as much as the
S.VV. coasts of Nova Scotia; and the best passage is, therefore, on the west of that island.
Here the tides course regularly and strongly ; but among the rocks and ledges on the S.E.
they are devious, embarrassing, and run with great rapidity. At the Bay of Passamaquoddy,
from the S.E. land to the White Islands, the flood strikes across with great strength, and in
light winds must be particularly guarded against.

The Tide of St. John's IIahdour, New Brunswick, will be noticed hereafter, as will
that of Annapolis. Tlirough the Gut of the latter it rushes with great force and rapidity.

Strangers bound up the Bay of Fniidy, to St. John's or Annapolis, should have a pilot,
as the tides in this Bay are very rapid, and there is no anchoring ground until you reach the
Bay of Passamaquoddy, or Meogenes Bay. In the Bay the weather is frequently very
foggy, apd the S E. gales blow with great violence for twelve or fourteen hours ; then shift
to the N.W., and as suddenly blow as violently from the opposite quarter. J

• See note on the preceding page.

t Instances. — A valuable coppered ship, with light airs of wind, drifted on the rocks, although
the fishing-lines were in use at the time ; the breakers heard, and the depth known. In the last
extremity, a kedge-anchor was let go. The ship bilged, and the passengers were landed.

On a point, from which soundings gradually deepen to nearly 40 miles, a large coppered ship
ran; and, having landed her passengers, was sold, as usual, for the benefit of the underwriters.

These are but two out of many. Some appear almost incredible ; but the authority places the
facts beyond doubt.

X This was said by M. Des Barres ; but see, farther, the General Directions, &c., hereafter.

WESTERN COAST OF NOVA SCOTIA.

185

as will
lidity.

la pilot,
[ach the
lly very
[en sliift

Llthoiigh
Ithe last

red ship

Vs.
ices the

" The tpring-tUlet in the Bai/ of Fundu rise to 30 foot perpendicular, and neap-tides rise
from 20 to 22 feet ; tliey (low on full antlcliiinne, nt St. John's, Moogcnes lluy, Annapolis,
H.irl)')ur Deliito, L'l'tang, ami (iiand Manau Island, at 12 o'clock. The tide sets nearly
along sliore."

" In Chifiuectn Ihif the tide Hows with groat ra|)i(lity, ns before menlioiied, and at the
equinoxes rises from ()0 lo 70 feet perpendicular. Hy nic.tns of these hii,di tides, the M.isjn
of Mines, and several fine rivers, which discliar^e themselves alxnit the head of the May of
Fundy, arc rendered niivijidile. It is worthy of lemaik, that, at the »ame time, the (iulf of
St. Lawrence tide, in liuj/ h trie, on the N.K. side uf the isthmus, rises only U feet."

Tho COASTS* XSZiANDSi dbO.— The southernmost point of Stai. Isr.AN'n,
>vliicii hears hoin thai ol ihr led^e «.J ( pe Sable ncaily NV.N.W. .J VV. .'),i leagues, lies
in or about latitude 43" '22i', and longitude (j.'i° 5'.)'. This island is more than two miles
in length, north and sDlUh. The scitfliprn part, coverofl with scroblty trees, is elevated
30 feet above the sea. A dangeious reef extends to one mile south, IVoin the south end of
the island.

Seal Island Lioiit. — Since the 1st of November, 183 1, a lii^hdiouse on the S.W. part
of the island has exhil)ited a conspicuous yi7'<?^ H.iiht, now 170 feet above high water mark,
which may be seen, on approacliing, from every point of the compass.

At about two miles S.S.W. from the lighthouse on Seal Island, lies tho Blnmlc, a rock
uncovered at low water, un which the fti^aie of that name was lost, in 1777. ('lose around
it are from 7 to 10 fathoms. Within a mile westward from the Blonde, arc heavy and dan-
gerous overfalls, which present an alarming fispect. At 4 J miles noith from these is a bed
of shoal ground, of 16 feet, causing a violent ripple.

Off the west side of Seal^Island is the rocky islet called the Devil's Limb,* which may at
all times be seen.

MUD ISLES, sometimes called the North Sp.als, consist of five low rugged islands.
The southernmost is situate at 2i miles from the N.K. part of Seal Island. Between is a
passage fit for any ship, Init there are overfalls of 18 feet at the distance of a short mile
from the southern Mud Island. In the channel are from 10 to 15 fathoms. This channel
lies with Cape Sable, bearing S.E. by E. J E. [£. $ S.] distant 5 leagues.

Wild fowl, as well as fish, abound here; and, on one of the isles, vast quantities of
petrels, or Mother Carey's chickens, annually !)reed. They burrow under ground, diagonally,
3 or 4 feet deep, where they sit on one egg, .and may be seen flitting about the ground in
astonishing numbers, searching for food.

The course and distance to pass from Cape Sable to between the Seal and Mud Islands
are N.W. by VV. J W. six leagues. In this track may be found jjeveral overfalls, of from
15 to 7 fathoms, bottom of gravel, which break violently in spring-tides. The north end
of Seal Island is bold-to one cable's length, 10 to 7 fathoms. The opposite side has a
shoal bank, on which n ship of war struck in 179G.

The TUSKET ISLES, or Tdskets, is the group or cluster lying to the northward of
the Mud Isles, and lo the S.W. of the entrance of Tusket Hivcr. Some of them are of
considerable size, and there are many shoals and ledges among them. On the west of
these isles are Green Island and the Gannet Rock ; the latter, whitened with birds' dung,
is 36 feet above the sea at high water. At about half a league from it, on the S.W., is a
ledge that appears at half ebb, and on which the 0;)o*s?<>n, brig, struck in 1816. Other
vessels have been injured by this danger, which has been heretofore represented to lie at four
miles ^V. by N. from the Gannet.

At half a mile to the N.W. of the north-western Mud Isle is a dangerous ledge, bare at
half-ebb, called the Soldiers, which is mote than half a mile in length from N.N.E. to
S.S.W. At a mile and a quarter N. \ W. from this is another, the Actccon, which thence
extends N. by W. two-thirds of a mile. Half a mile farther, in the same direction, is a
shoal of similar size, having over its centre a depth of only 2 fathoms. The navigation
hereabout is, therefore, to be avoided by strangers.

PUBNICO.— This harbour, little known, is a very good one; it is easy of access, and
conveniently situated for vessels bound to tlie Bay of Fundy, which, in distress, may here
find supplies as well as shelter. From the south end of Seal Island Reef, already described,
to the entrance of Pubnico, the bearing and distance are N.E. i E. 15 miles. The depths

* See note on page 133,
2B

'I'

18G

CAPE FOUIlCIiL'.

between vary from 20 to 16 fathoms, and thence to 12 and 6 fathoms, up to the beach, the
proper anchorage for a stranger. On the western side, above the beach, is a ledge, partly
dry at low water. The total population of Pubnico, in 1817, was 285 persons, children
included.

On sailing toward Pubnico, you pass on the west of John's Island, which lies 2.^ miles
to the southward of the harbour, and the north side of which affords good shelter during a
S.E. gale. Small vessels lie along the beach forming the eastern part of this island.

From the entrance of Pubnico, a course W. by N., 4 leagues, leads clear to the southward
of the Tusket Isles. On this course you will pass at a mile to the southward of the south-
ernmost Tusket, or Bald Isle. A course W. ^ S., 12 miles, will lead between and clear of
the Aclajon and Soldiers' ledges, whence you may proceed either to the N.W. or S.W.
according to your destination.

CAPS FOURCKV* or the Forked CAPE,'which lies in about latitude 43° 47' 30",
longitude C6° 10', is very remarkable, being rocky, barren, and high. The Lighthouse
on the island of Cape Fourchu exhibits a brilliant revolving light, at 145 feet above the level
of the sea; it is visible for one minute and a quarter, and invisible half a minute. The
building is painted red and white, in vertical stripes. The island itself has two narrow
prongs running out to the southward, from which it derives its name; the irdet furmed by
them must not be mistaken for the entrance to Yarmouth, which, of course, lies to the
westward of both of them.

Within this Cape is the harbour of Yarm-'uth, which is small, but safe. Off the en-
trance, at 2i miles S.S,W. i VV., lies the Bags/tot, a blind rock, which is dry at low water,
and runs shoal one quarter of a mile to the southward. In sailing into the harbour, you
may pass on either side of it. There are other rocks in the entrance, and the fairway in is
on the eastern shore, till opposite the point or isthmus on that side. At the top of the latter
stands the battery ; and under its lee, or to the northward, is the anchorage, with good
ground, in 6 or 5 fathoms.

Above the anchorage is the town of Yarmouth, a respectable one, which contained,
with its environs, 4345 persons in 1828. It has been recently a place of increasing conse-
quence, and appears like a rising village of New England. " The little red-coloured Acadian
cottages are succeeded by large frame houses, neatly coloured white; and the occasional
appearance of square-rigged vessels and smaller craft in the harbour, indicates the rising
efforts of a spirit of enterprise."

At a league and a half S. by E. from Cape Fourchu is Point Jegogan (Cape Jehogne of
Des Barres) ; the land between is low. Within the point is the little harbour of .Tekogue,
•which is shoal, and frequented only by the coasters. There are several shoals in the vicinity.
The lands hereabout are good, of moderate height, and well settled.

From Cape Fourchu to Cape St. Mary, the bearing and distance are N. 2- E. 6 leagues :
and from Cape St. Mary to the S.W. end of Dryer's Island, N.N.W. i W. 12J miles.

With Cape Fourchu bearing S.E. by E. ^ E. 14 miles distant, lies the Lurcher, a
sunken ledge of 12 feet at low water, covering an area of about three acres. From the
Gannei Rock to this ledge, the bearing and distance are N.N.W. % W. 19 J- miles ; and, from
the Lurcher to Cape St. Mary, N.E.i E. 18 miles.

The Trinity Ledge, another reef, lies S.W. J W. 6 miles from Cape St. Mary, and
N. by W. 14 miles from Cape Fourchu. This danger covers a space of more than half an
acre, and three small rocks upon it are seen at low tides. Tlie stream sets rapidly over it.
The depth, to a mile around, is from 12 to 15 fathoms.

BRVSiXt^S ZSZiANDi above mentioned, is an island only 3^ miles in extent
from N.E. to S,W., on the western side of the entrance of St. Mary's Bay. It con-
tained, in 1816, 147 persons. On its S.W. side is a lighthouse, the light of which is
about 92 feet above the level of the sea. A rocky spit extends two miles S.VV. from the
S.E. point of the island, and has a rock near its extremity, called the Black Rock. At a
mile farther, in the same direction, is a small shoal of 3 fathoms.*

• On Dryer's Island the ship Trafalgar, of Hull, was lost, 25th July, 1817, at about half-past
eight in the evening. The ship, bound for St. John's, had been running up all the day ; the wea-
ther being thick, could not see any thing: '« At seven p.m. hove the ship to, with her head to the
westward, thinking wo were well over to the westward, sounding in 40 fathoms ; the tide ran with
great strength : and, before we could see the land, we heard the surf against the rocks; got sail

BAY OF FUNUY.

187

iry, and
half an
over it.

extent
It con-
Ivhich is
Irora the
At a

Ihalf-past
Tthe wea-
ld to the
Iran with
got sail

A NEW Lighthouse, lantern, and lamps, have been completed on the site of the old
lighthouse on Bryer's [siand. •' The complaints against t!ie bad keeping of the old light
were universal, and when the old lighthouse came to be taken down, it was then discovered
that eight large posts, which supported the roof, passing up by the lantern, had intercepted
the light about 23 per cent. ; and, by acting as so many screens, made the light appear, as
a vessel altered her position, like a bad or blinking light."* The lighthouse stands about
half a mile N.E. from the N.W. point of the island, is painted white, and shows a brilliant
fixed light at 90 feet elevation,

LONG ISLAND,— The next island to Bryer's, forming the west side of St, INIary's
Bay, is Long Island; it is 10 miles long from N.E. to S.VV., and half a league in
breadth. It is inhabited, and its inhabitants, in 181G, amounted to 135 persons. Long
Island is divided from Bryer's Island, on the S.VV., by a strait, called Grand Passage,
and on the N.E, from the Peninsula of St. Mary, by another, called Petit Passage. In
the Grand Passage the water is deep, but the chaiuiel crooked, and it should not be at-
tempted by a stranger, unless under very favourable circumstances. The Petit P.issage
is about 280 fathoms wide in its narrowest part, and has from 20 to 30 fathoms of water :
its shores are bold-to. On its western side, near the northern entrance, lies KdJi/ Cove,
a convenient place for vessels to anchor in, out of the stream of the tide, which runs so
rapidly, that without a fresh leading wind, no ;•■ 'p can stem it. The south end of Grand
Passage is Hi- miles N. by \V. from Cape St. Mary. That of the Petit Passage is three
leagues to the north-east from Grand Passage.

BAY of St. MARY. — Frotn Cape St. Mary, upward, into this bay, the south shore
is low, and runs out in sandy flats. The north shore presents high steep cliff's, with
deep water close under them. Mid-channel, and above two-thirds up the bay, lies a
rocky bank, with 4 and 4^ fathoms of water, and on each side of which are channels of
12 and 15 fathoms, muddy bottom. The entrance of the River Sissibou, on the south
side of the bay, is shoal, and within has a narrow channel of 2 fathoms of water. Op-
posite to Sissibou lies the Sandy Cove, where small vessels, when it blows hard, may
ground safely on mud, and be sheltered from all winds.

SAV of FUNDV CONTINUED.— -We now proceed with the particular de-
scription of the Coasts of the Bay of Fundy, commencing with Bryer's Island, the light-
house on which has been described.

Off the N.W. side of Bryer's Island are several dangers, which must be cautiously
avoided. Of these, the outer are called the Northwest Ledge, and Betsnus Ledge : they
lie at the distance of 2^ to 4 miles northwestward of the island, and between them and
the shore are two other ledges, with deep channels between them ; but the situations of the
latter are rot exactly known. The N.W. Ledge is 4 miles N, ^ E. from the lighthouse.
Its shoal part is of the extent of an acre of ground, and the whole extent of the shoal about
three- quaiters of a mile.

In the parallel of 44° 15', at 8 miles westward of Bryer's Island, strong ripples of tide
may be found, which may easily be mistaken for shoals and breakers; though the sound-
ings here vary from 45 to 33, and ; gain to 45 fathoms. At 2 J- miles more to the south
are 56 fathoms ; and at 2 miles from Bryer's Island are 40 fathoms. At 5 miles to the
northwestward of this Island no bottom is to be found with a line of 90 fathoms.

The coast from the south part of Long Island to the Gut of Annapolis, is nearly straight,
and trends N.E. by E. 1 1 leagues. The shore is bound with high rocky cliffs, above
which is a range of liills, that rise to a considerable height ; their tops appear smooth and
unbroken, except near the Grand Passage, Petit Passage, Sandy Cove, and Gulliver's
Hole, where those hills sink in valleys.

upon the ship ; but, being so close, the strong tide set us upon the rocks. It being high water when
we got on, run out a kedge to heave her oflf, but all to no purpose. At low water the ship was dry
all round, amongst the rugged rocks, which went through her in difturenl parts; tlie ship having as
nuidi water within as there was on the outside at high water." The passengers were safely hmded,
and a part of the stores saved, which were taken to St. John's to be sold, there being no purchasers
on the island.

* We are indebted for this and much other valuable information to Mr. IVm. Reynolds, Chart and
Bookseller, of St. Jolm's, New Drunswick, whose laudable zeal for the diffusion oi' sudi knowledge
is entitled to the most respectful acknowledgment. By this gentleman we have been informed
that " All the lighthouses in the Bay of Fundy have the best constructed iron lanterns, with copper
hunps, and the improved reflectors : consequinlly are fully to be depended on."

■H'

188

ANNAPOLIS — BASIN OF MINES.

AMNAPOZiZS. — The entrance of the Got of Annapolis, or Digby Cut, lies in
latitude 44" 42', and longitude Cfi** 46^'. The shore, on both sides, without the Gut, is
iron-honnd for several leagues. From Petit Passage, there is a range of hills rising
gradually to a consideraMe height, to the entrance of the gut, where it terminates by a
steep fall. Here you have from 25 to 30 and 40 fathoms of water, which, as you draw
into tiie basin, slionlens quickly to 10, 8, and 6 fathoms, muddy bottdm. The stream of
ebb and Hood sots through ti>e gut at the rate of five knots, and causes several whirlpools
and ed<lies. The truest tide is on t!)e eastern shore, which is so bold-to, that a ship might
rub her bowsprit against the cliHs, and lie in 10 fathoms of water. Foifit Prim, on the
western side of the entrance, runs off shoal about 30 fadioms. Ships may anchor on the
eastern side of the basin, or riiu up eastward, 4 miles, toward Goat Island ; observing,
when within the distance of a mile a)id a half from it, to stretch two-thirds of tlie way over
to the north shore, until \)ast the island, which is shoal all round ; and thence to keep
mid-channel up to the town : the depdis, 4 and 5 fathoms.

There is a lighthouse on Point Prim, the light of which exhibited, as improved in 1835,
is fixed, and 76 feet al'ove the sea. Caution is requisite on apjnoaching the gut, as
Gulliver's Hole, 2 2 leagues to the westward, presents nearly similar features, and a

mistake might be dangerous. "

attended to.

The light-tower is, however, a suliicient distinction, if

There is no difficulty in going through Annapolis Gut, if you have a commanding breeze,
although the tide is very rapid, and the eddies strong. At about one-third through lies
Man of JFar Hock, about a cable's length from tiie south shore : by keeping in mid-
channel you will clear it.

Of Annapolis, Mr. Lockvvood says, " The abrupt precipices of the high lands form
the gut, and cause flurries of wind that course in all directions, and rush violetitly from
the summits of the hills. The tide hurries through the gut with great force. There
is no anchorage, except very close in-shore, near the outer western point. In some
places the depth is 40 to HO fathoms. In entering Amiapolis liasin, the scenery is
inexpressibly beautiful. The farms are becoming valuable and extensive. The herring
fishery is a source of great profit; the fish are so well cured, that die merchants of Halifax
and St. John's give them a decided preference for foreign markets." Between this and
St. John's a weekly packet is established, as noticed hereafter.

ANNAPOLIS to the BASIN of MINES.— From the Gut of Aimapolis up the bay to
Cape Split, the coast continues straight, and nearly in the same direction, with a few
rocky clifTs near the gut, and many banks of red earth under high lands, which appear
very even. In the gut, leading into the Basin of Mine?', from Cape Split to Cape
Blowmedown, and from Cape D'Or, on the north side, to Partridge Island, the land
rises almost perpendicular from the shore, to a very great height. Between Cape Blowme-
down and Partridge Island, there is a great depth of water ; and the stream of the current,
even at the time of neap-tides, does not run less Uian at the rate of 5 or 6 fathoms.

Cape jyOr and Cape Chignecto are high lands, with very steep cliffs of rocks and red
earth, and deep water close under them. You have nearly the same kind of shore to the
head of Chignecto Bay, where very extensive flats of nuid and quicksand are left dry at
low water. The tides come in a bore, -mv^ rush in with great rapidity ; they are known
to flow, at the equinoxes, from 60 to 75 feet perpendicular.

The Isle Haute is remarkable for the great height ami steepness of the rocky cliffs,
which seem to overhang oft the west side. There is a gooil landing-place at its eastern
end, and anchorage at half a mile off, in 18 fathoms, with the low point about N.E. by N.,
where, also, is a stream of water luoning into the sea. The east end of this isle bears
from Cape Chignecto S.W. \ S., 4 miles, and from Cape D'Or VV. * N. 9 miles.

SASXN of I^INES. — Tlirrc are whirlpools off Cape Split, which are dangerous
with spring-tides, and run at about 9 knots. Having )>a;'sed this place, you may come
to an anchor in a bay of the north shore, between Partridge Isle, to the east, and Cape
Sharp, on Uie west. From this spot, if bound to N\ indoor iiiVEii, it will be necessary
to get under way two hours before low water, in order to get into the stream of the
Windsor tide on the southern shore; otherwise, unless with a commanding breeze, a
vessel is likely to be carried up with the Cobequid or Eastern tide, which is the main
stream, and runs very strongly, both ebb and flood. The Windsor tide turns off round
Cape Blowmedown, down to the southward, and then again is divided ; one part con-

NORTH COAST OF THE BAY OF FUNDY.

189

and a
tion, if

fy cliffs,

eastern

■ byN,

lie bears

come

[d Cape

jicessary

of the

leeze, a

|e main

round

irt con>

tinuing its course up to Windsor, and the other forms the Cornwallis tide, running up tlic
river of that name.

In running into Windsor River, a house on Horvton Bluff (within the river on the
west) should be kept in a souih bearing, and the gap in the land formed by Farsborougfi
River, North ; this will take you through the channel between the Flats, which cannot
be passed at low water, by a vessel drawing 15 feet, much before half-tide. Off Ilornton
Bluff the ground is loose and slaty, and a ship will be likely to drag hor anchors with a
strong breeze, particularly at fall and chanjie : perhaps it may be best for men-of-war to
moor across the stream, and full one-third from the Muff.

The Banks and Flats appear to be composed of soft crumbling sandstone, which is
washed down from the surrounding country in great (piHiilities during the spring; and, by
accumulating on them, are constantly increasing their height.

It is liigli Water, on the full and change, at Cape Chignecto and Cape D'Or at 1 1 h.,
and spring-tides, in ^>eneral, rise from 30 to 40 feet. Off Cape Split, at 10| h. rise 40 feet :
South side of the Basin of Mines, ll| h. : rise, 38 feet.

The Basin of Mines and Chignecto Bay are now surrounded with flourishing settle-
ments, and abound in coal, plaster, limestone, and other minerals.

Chignecto Bay runs up E.N.E., and may be considered as the north-eastern branch of
the Bay of Fundy. It is divided from the Mines Channel by the peninsula of which
Cape Chignecto is the western extremity : Cape Enragce lies about 12 or 13 miles within
it, on the north side. Tht^ /iiihthouse on this Cape is a square building painted white, and
showing u brilliant fixed light at 120 feet above the water.

Eleven miles above this, the bay divides into two branches, the one leading to Cinnher-
* land Basin and the River Missiquash, whicli runs across the isthmus, and is the boundary
between Nova Scotia and New Brunswick : the other branch runs norUierly to the J^et-
cudiac River. These parts, like the B isin of Mines, are fast rising into consequence, and
becoming the seat of numerous settlements. The Cumberland branch is navigable to
within 13 miles of Verte B.iy, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence ;* and it is remarkable that,
when the rise of tide in the latter is only eight feet, it rises to above CO feet in Cumberland
Basin.

XfORTK COAST of the BAY of FUNDY, commencing Eastward. — The town-
ship of St. Martin's, on the north shore, to the N.W. by N. of Cape Chignecto, is thinly
inhabited ; the land in the neighbourhood is moderately Rood, but is much broken, with
steep declivities, &c. The weather here is commonly humid, the wind changeable and
blustering, with limited and short intervals of sunshine.

From Quako, at about 19 miles westward of St. Martin's, to the harbour of St. John's,
the land, as already described, is high : the interior hills rise in easy inequalities ; but the
ravines of the cliffs appear deep and gloomy. The indents have beaches ; and Black
River, at 5 leagues west of Quako, although dry from half-tide, is a safe inlet for a small
vessel.

A LtGiiTiiousc has been erected on a small rock, lying off Quako Head, which was
first liglited on the 10th of Septendier, 1835. It is painted white and red, in horizontal
stripes : the light is brilliant and revolving ; twice completely full and dark in every
minute.

QUAKO LEDGE is a dangerous shoal, lying in the middle of the Bay of Fundy, and
off Cape Chignecto. It consists of gravel, and many ships have grounded on it ; and is
about half-a-mile broad by 3^ miles in length, from N.W. by N. to S.E. by S. It lies
about 12 miles S.E. ^ E. from Quako, and 11 miles W. by N. from Isle Ifante. There
are several irregular patches of rocks lying off its N.E. side. It shows at half-tide, and
dries for about 100 yards, havinsj but 1'2 feet of water over it with common tides : half-a-
mile to the N.E., the eddies with the flood-tides are strong and numerous, the ship's head
going nearly round the compass in the space of half-an-hour ; the ebb is a true tide, and
sets in a W.S.W. direction towards the ledge. The soundings are from 7 to 14 fathoms,
at about two cables' lengths all the way round ; but they shoal more gradually from the N.E.
The mark to go clear to the southward of the Quako Ledge, is Cape d'Or, at the entrance
of the Mines Chaimel, on with the south side of the Isle Haute.

* See note on page 141.

190

HAKBOUR OF ST. JOHN.

The BARBOUa of St. JOHN.— The entrance of this harbour lies N. k W.,
1 1 leagues from the entrance of Annapolis, and may be distinguished by a lighthouse on
Partridge Idund, Jit a mile within the exterior points, Cape Maspeck on the east, and
Meogenes Isle on the west.* Partridge Island is about two miles southward from the
city. It equally protects the harbour, and guides the mariner to his destination.

The lighthouse on Partridge Island has been rebuilt, and is painted red and white in
vertical stripes: it exhibits a. fixed tig/it, at 120 feet above the level of the sea, and is
furnished with a bell, to be invariably lolled in thick or foggy wealher.f

Southward of Partridge Island, the bottom for several miles is muddy, and the depth
gradual, from 7 to 20 fathoms, excellent for anchoring. On the bar, west of the island, the
least depth is 10 feet ; but, eastward of it, 16 feet. The anchoring depth, opposite to the
city, is in from 22 to 7 fathoms.

The city of St. John .stands on an irregular descent, with a southern aspect ; and, on
entering the river, presents a picturesque appearance. The river's mouth is narrow and
intricate : many accidents have happened to those who have attempted the navigation
without a pilot.

A breakwater has been erected at the eastern side of the entrance, below the town, for
the purpose of reducing the inset of the sea into the harbour, especially during a southerly
gale. Within the port, every possible focility and convenience is given to ships requiring
repair : they lie upon blocks, and undergo a thorough examination, without incurring the
expense, injury, and loss of time occasioned by heaving down, so strangely persisted in at
Halifax.

St. John's contains about 900 houses and 6000 inhabitants. Within the harbour is a
valuable fishery, in which are annually taken from 10 to 15,000 barrels of herrings, from
2000 to 3000 barrels of salmon, and from 1000 to 2000 barrels of shad. In the most
severe winter it is free from the incumbrance of ice. The country on the banks of the
river abounds in excellent timber, coal, limestone, and other minerals.^

The entrance into the river, two miles above the city, is over [the Falls, a narrow
channel of 80 yards in breadth, and about 400 long. This passage is straight, and a
ridge of rocks so extends across it as to retain the fresh water of the river. The common
tides flowing here about 20 feet, at low water the waters of the river are about 12 feet
higher than the water of the sea ; and, at high water, the water of the sea is from 5 to 8
feet higher than the water of the river ; so that, in every tide, there are two falls, one
outward and one inward. The only lime of passing lliis place is when the water of the
river is level with the water of the sea, which is twice in a tide ; and this opportunity of
passing continues not above ten minutes : at all other times it is impassable, or extremely
dangerous.

After you have entered through this place, called the' Falls, you enter into a gullet,
which is about a quarter of a mile wide, and a mile long, winding in several courses, and
having about 16 fathoms in the channel. Having passed this gullet, you enter a fine large
basin, about one mile and a half wide, and seven miles in length, entering into the main
river of St. John.§

The River of St. John has sufficient depth of water for large ships to the Falls, whence
it continues navigable 60 miles up, to Fredericton, the seal of government, for vessels of
50 tons. At times of great freshes, which generally happen between the beginning of
April and the middle of May, from the melting of the snow, the Falls are absolutely
impassable to vessels bound up the river, as the tide does not rise to their level.

Des Barres gives the Cape or Point Maspeck in lat. 45° 18' 27", long. 65° 57' 35"; but the
t, edited at the Admiralty, gives the latitude as only 45° 13', longitude 05° 59'.

• M. Des

late chart,

t Besides the lighthouse on Partridge Island, there is now a beacon-tower light erected on the
Spit, within the harbour. This light is very beneficial to the port, as ships may now enter it at all
hours of the night. Its situation is on the extremity of a spit or bar on the western or left side of
the entrance to the harbour, which uncovers at two-thirds ebb.

% The coasting trade of the port of St. John has, for some time past, been greatly increasing
with all the northern ports of the American Union, particularly from the Chesapeake to Eastport;
and a steam-boat runs once a week to Boston. (1841.)

§ On Sunday, Aug. 31, 1832, the brig Caroline, Capt. Henry, of 155 tons, passed over the Falls
to Indian Town, with a cargo of coals for the steam-vessels which ply from that place to Fredericton.
This, we have been informed, is the first instance ot a loaded vessel going through j the attempt
having previously been considered as a matter of fearful enterprise.

DIRECTIONS FOR ST. JOHN S HARBOUR.

191

iVV.,

jse on
t, and
>in the

Iiite ia
and is

! depth
nd, the
i to the

and, on
Dw and
i^igation

wn, for
outherly
equiring
ring the
ted in at

lOur is a
;s, from
the most
3 of the

I narrow

it, and a

common

t 12 feet

5 to 8

lis, one

r of the

It unity of

xlremely

la gullet,
[ses, and
ine large
|he main

whence
3ssels of
ining of
psolutely

but the

on the

it at all

|ft side of

licreasing
pastport ;

Ithe Falls
lerictoii.
I attempt

Directions for St. John's Harbour and Meogenes Bay, by

Mr. Backhouse.

" When you have made Meogenes Island, or Partridge Isle,* so as to be distinguished
from the lighthouse on the latter, then make a signal for a pilot, and the intelligence
from Partridge Island will be immediately communicated to the city of St. John, whence
a pilot will join you. Should the wind be contrary, or any other obstruction meet you, to
prevent your obtaining the harbour that tide, you may sfiil-in between the S.VV. end of
Meogenes Island and the main, or between the N.R. end and the main, and come to anchor
in 4 or 5 fathoms at low water, mud and sandy bottom. The mark for the best anchoring
ground here, is, to bring the three hills in the country to the N.E. in a line within Rocky
Point Island,t and the house on Meogenes Island to bear S.E. by S.

" Should the tide of ebb have taken place at the beacon, you must not, by any means,
attempt to gain the harbour that tide, but wait the next half-flood, to go over the bar, as
both sides of the entrance of this harbour are nothing but sharp rocks, dry at low water;
and the tide of ebb is so rapid in the spring, when the ice and snow are dissolved, that all
the anchors on board will not hold the ship from driving.

" On the Nova Scolian side of the Bay of Fundi/, your soundings will be from 50, CO,
70, 80, to 95 fathoms; stones like beans, and coarse sand ; and, as you draw to the north-
ward, the quality of the ground will alter to a fine sand, and some small shells with black
specks. Approach no nearer to the south shore than in AO fathoms ; and, as you edge off
to the N.W. and VV.N.W., you will fall off the bank, and have no soundings."

Farther Directions for Sailing into the Harbour, by the same.

" When you have passed Meogenes Island, edge in-shore toward Rocky Point, [or the
Shag Rock,] until Meogenes Point \Nefiro Head'} is in a line over the N.W. corner of
Meogenes Island; sailing in between Rocky Point and Partridge Island, with these marks
in one, will lead you in the best water over the bar, (15 feet,) until you open Point Maspeck
to the northward of the low point on Partridge Island ; then starboard your helm, and edge
toward Thompson's Point, until the red store, at the south end of St. John's, is in a line
over the beacon: keep them in one until you pass the beacon at the distance of a ship's
breadth ; then haul up N.N.W. up the harbour, keeping the blockhouse, at the upper part
of the harbour, open to the westward of the king's store, situate close to the water side,
which will lead you, in mid-channel, up to the wharfs, where you may lie aground dry, at
half-tide, and clean your ship's bottom, or lie afloat in the stream at single anchor, with a
hawser fast to the posts of the wharfs on shore. — N. B. The tide of flood here is weak, but
the ebb runs very rapidly all the way down past Meogenes Island."

Remarks on St. John's, &c., by Mr. Lockwood and Capt. Napier.

TuE tides of the river, at full and change, flow till half-past eleven. The vertical rise is
18 feet. Equinoctial spring-tides rise 24 to 28 feet.

After the first quarter flood, the tide below the surface runs into the harbour.

During summer, and the depth of winter, the tide generally flows in at half-flood.

In autumn the river is swoln by rains, and between the beginning of April and the middle
of May, by the melting of the ice, and the great quantity of snow that accumulates on the
lands of this vast navigable river.

From these causes, the water streams out to seaward continually, therefore vessels at that
time seldom enter the harbour, without a fresh leading wind. The falls are then impassable,
as the tide does not rise to their level.

The body of the river is 17| feet above low water-mark. Consequently, after the tide
has risen to that height, the water descends, or literally falls into the river.

• These directions should be compared with the Chart of the Harbour.

f This is an islet, lying at a cable's length from the point, and more properly called the Shag
Rock. It is surrounded by sunken rocks.

192 * POUT OF ST. JOHX.

When the tide has flowed twelve feet, the falls are smooth and passable for twenty
minutes.

Above the falls the tide rises four feet ; and at Majorfield, CO miles in the interior, it
rises one foot and a half. After passing the falls, you enter a gullet, which is a quarter
of a mile wide, and two milps long, winding in difFcrenl courses, and having IG fathoms in
the channel. Next to this i^ullet is a fine huge basin, a mile and a half wide, and eight
miles long, entering the main river. There is water sufficient, except in dry seasons, for
vessels of fifty tons, as high as Fredericlon, and in all the branches of the lakes. In the
middle of May, or earlier in favourable seasons, the snow and ice in the country, melting,
make a general overflow in the river, which, in some years, rises so high as to inundate all
the low lands. The nverflowinus were measured, in 1765, by the marks set up at Major-
field ; the water was found to have flowed 17 feet above the common height of the water in
summer." — (liemarks by Chas. Morris, Esq.)

Of the TiUE, Captain Napier, R.N., when commanding II. M. sloop Jaseur, has said,
" The great volume of fresh water which constantly runs down the Harbour of St. John,
in April and May, causes rt conthmal stream outward during that period, sometimes to the
depth of nearly 5 fathoms, under which the flood and ebb flow regularly: the maximum
of its velocity we found to be 4 J knots, and the minimum 2 knots; hut, as the log floated
very deep in the fresh water, and ultimately sunk in the salt water running underneath, it
would not be too much to estimate the maximum at 5 knots, and the minimum at 2^. The
fact of the under tide beginning at the depth of nearly 5 fathoms, was ascertained by sink-
ing a lead down to ihat depth, when it was carried the same way as the current on the
surface ; but, when lowered below that, it was carried in a contrary direction.

PORT OF ST. JOHN. — Signals displayed at Partridge Island, on the approach of
vessels to the Harbour: —

One ball close for one square-rigged vessel.

One ]>all half hoisted, for two square-rigged vessels.

Two balls close, for three ditto.

Two balls separated, for four ditto.

A pendant of any colour, for five ditto.

A ditto under a ball, for six ditto.

A ditto over a ball half hoisted, for seven ditto.

A ditto under two balls close, for eight ditto.

A ditto under two balls separate, for nine ditto.

A flag of any colour, for ten or more ditto.

The above are displayed at the east or west yard-arm, according to the direction in which
the vessels are at first observed ; and as soon as their big can be distinguished, descriptive
colours will be hoisted at the mast-head, in the following order: —

A union jack, with a white pendant over, for a small armed vessel.

A blue pendant, for a merchant ship.

A red ditto, for a merchant briij.

A white and blue ditto, for a foreign vessel.

A white ditto (without n ball), for a topsail schooner or sloop.

A red flag pierced white, for a steam-boat from Saint Andrews and Eastport.

A ball at the must-head, vessel is on shore or in distress.

Should immediate aid be necessary, guns to be fired.

In foggy weather, a gun will be fired from Partridge Island, in return for each heard at
sea. Should a vessel require a pilot, her descriptive pendant will be displayed at a yard-
arm, in the place of a bafl.

Rates of Wharfage, estahlished by Act 54 Geo. III., cap. 9.

For every decked vessel, or vessel of the description called wood boats, not exceed-
ing 50 tons 1 *. 6.'/. per &.-j

Above 50 tons, and not exceeding 100 tons .......... 2*. ()d. -

Above 100 tons, anu not exceeding 150 tons 3s. 6d. —

Above 1 50 tons, and not exceeding 200 tons 5s. Od. —

Above 200 tons, and not exceeding 300 tons 7s. 6d. —

Above 300 tons, and not exceeding 400 tons ••■•.*...• 10*. 6f/. —

' 490 tons and upwards 12*. 6rf. —

ST. JOHN S TO PASSAMAQUODDY.

193

f twenty

terior, it
I quarter
thorns in
ind eight
sons, for
In the
melting,
indate all
It Major-
j water in

has said,
St. John,
nes to the
Tiaximum
og floated
smealh, it
2^. The
1 by sink-
nt on the

)proach of

n in which
iescriptive

lort.

heard at
lat a yard-

3t exceed-

Time/or going through the Falls, near St. John:

■ The falls are level (or still water) at about 3 J hours on the flood, and about 2 J on the
ebb, which makes them passable four times in twenty-four hours, about 10 or 15 minutes
each time.— No other rule can be given, as much depends on the floods in the River St.
John, and the time of high water or full sea, which is often hastened by high winds, and in
proportion to the height of them.

ST. JOHN'S TO PASSAMAQUODDY.— From CapeMaspeck, Xegro Head, the
opposite extremity of the Bay of St. John, bears W. i S. 5i miles; and the coast from
IVeyro Head to Cqpg Musquash trends W.S.VV. 4 miles. A remark, ihle rock, the Split
Hock, marks the Cape; and at a mile fartlier westward is the entrance of Miis(juash
Harbour, a well-sheltered cove, in which there is good anchoring ground in 3 and 4
fathoms.

An irregular coast now succeeds to Point Lepreau, 10 miles W.S.NV. 2 W. Near the
middle of it are the inlets called Dipper and Little Dipper, wliich admit small craft and
boats, Between St. John's Harbour and Point Lepreau the shove is generally bold ; the land
broken and high. Many accidents have happened in the vicinity of the Point, and it should
therefore be approached with caution.

POINT LEPllEAU. — A Lighthouse has been erected on Point Lepreau, which was
first lighted on the 1st of November, 1831, and is now painted red and white, in horizontal
stripes, five feet broad. It exhibits two fixed lights, vertically, one being above the other,
and distant 23 feet. The lower lantern is fixed to the outside of the building, and both
lights can be seen from every point of the compass where they may be useful. The light-
house bears from the easternmost of the Wolves E. by N. 11 miles, and from Head Harbour
Light, (Campobello Isl.) E. I N. about 20 miles. The distance hence along shore, to a
sight of Partridge Island, St. John's, is 6i leagues.

At five miles N.W. from Point Lepreau is lied Head. The irregular indent between is
Mace's Bay, a dtep and dangerous bight, in which several vessels have been embayed and
wrecked. On each side are several clusters of islets and rocks, but there is a good place of
shelter, Polxlogan, at the head of it; and there is good anchorage in the centre, in 3 or 4
fathoms, which will be obtained by entering near the western shore.

GRAND »IANAN,— This island, 11 miles in lengUi, from N.N.E. to S.S.W., by
4 or 5 in breadth, is included in Charlotte County, in the Province of New Brunswick.
The nearest distance from the opposite coast of the State of Maine is two leagues. The
western side is very high ; its cliffs being nearly perpendicular, and about 600 feet high
above the level of the sea. On this side is but one little inlet. Dark Cove, which affords
shelter for boats only. The northern head (Bishop) is equally abrupt and bold ; but to the
southeastward of it is W/iale Cove, having anchoring ground, with 25 to 15 fathoms, in
which ships may stop for a tide, during a southerly gale, but it is exposed to the north.

The eastern coasts of Manan abound in fish, and the interior is in a rapid state of im-
provement. The soil is in general good, and it produces all the species of fir, beech, birch,
and maple, in size and quality adequate to all purposes for which they are generally used.

To the S.E. of ^VIlale Cove, on the same side of the island, is Long Is/and Bay, so
called from the island on the S.E. side of it. The N.E. point of this bay, called, from its
shape, the Swallow's Tail, is high, bold, rugged, and barren. The bay is open, but
possesses all the advantages of a harbour: the bottom is wholly of mud, excepting a ridge
of rocks and gravel that shows itself within the Swallow's Tail, and the north end of Long
Island ; there is also a small cluster of sunken rocks, of 5 feet at low water, at half a mile
from Long Island Point.

Under Long Island, and opposite to the beach, ships may anchor, even locking in the
north end of Long Island with the Swallow's Tail, on a strong muddy bottom, entirely
sheltered from the wind and sea. In the northern part of the bay, bottom of stiff clay,
vessels have frequently been protected during a severe gale.

Half-way down off" the eastern coast of Grent Manan, at a mile from shore, is Great
Duck Island, under which there is good ground ; but here a pilot will be required, as
there are hidden dangers in the vicinity. To the southwestvvard and southward of Duck
Island, lie Pi,oss, Cheneif, and White Head Islands : the latter occupied by a skilful and
intelligent pilot : from these the rocks and foul ground extend 6j miles to the S.S.E.

194

GIIAND MAN AN.

On the southern bank of Great Mannu, the most dangerous ledge is that called the Old
Proprietor, which lios two leagues S.S.E. from Wiiite I lead Isliuid, and covers tlie space
of half ail acre at low water : it is dry at half-tbh. When covered, the tide sets directly
over it, at the rate of four miles an hour. The S.W. head of Maiian open of all the islets
off the south side of that island, will lead clear to the southward of it. The northeastern-
most high land, open of the islets on the oast, leads clear to the eastward of all the dangers.
During an easterly wind, the tide-rips are impassable.

The Thrf-e Islands, (Ki;nt's,) the southernmost of the Manan Islets, are low and
ledgy. The eastern side of the largest is bold to the rocks, which are at all times visible.
Off the N.W. of these rocks is a ledge called the Constable, dry at low water. The.se isles,
with (}reen Islets to the northward of them, afford occasional anchorage, in from 14 to 7
fathoms.

^VooD Isi.ANo, on the south side of Manan, with the S.W. Head of the latter, form a
bay containing excellent ground. The upper part and head of it, in a gale of wind, are
places of security; and here supplies, if requisite, may be obtained from the inhabitants.

Hetweon Wood Island, on the S.W., and Ros-; Island, on the N.E., is the i>assage to
Grand IlAUr.oua, a shallow muddy basin, into which you may enter l)y passing near the
(ircen Islets. It is a convenient place for vessels without anchor or cable, as they may
lie in the mud, in perfect security. At the entrance, which is narrow, the depths aie from
G to 3 fathoms, bottom of clay.

The GANNET, a small rock, 40 feet high, and having many sunken rocks and ledges
about it, stands at the distance of 3\ miles S.S.W. from the'Tliree Islands. Mr. Lock-
wood, many years ago, observed that this would be a tine situation for a lighthouse, which

The ledges and sunken rocks in the vicinity

would be the means of saving many ships,
always break.

The lighthouse has been erected, and was lighted for the first time on the 1st of Decern-
her, 1831. The lantern was originally fitted with red glass, as its characteristic distinction;
but the coloured glass was found to be too obscure in so foggy an atmosphere. It has since
been changed to a brilliant il;)sliing light; the light appearing for 40 seconds, and suc-
ceeded by 20 seconds of darkness. The lighthouse is painted in stripes, vertical, black
and white.*

Tlie tliree low islets, called Maciiias Seal Isles, lie 10 miles to the W. by N. of the
Gannet, with ihe S.W. head of Ornnd Manan bearing E.N.E. about 3 leagues distant.

The bearings of the (iannet Rock Lighthouse from the dangers in the vicinity, as given
by authority, are as follow : — From the Old Proprietor, which dries at three-quarters* ebb
(very dangerous), W. by S. ]- S., seven miles; Black Rock (always above water, 25 feet),
off White Head, S. W. \- W. ; South-west Head of Grand Manan, S.E. i S. ; Northern-
most of the Murr ledges (dry at two-thirds ebb), S.E. by E. ^ E. ; southernmost of ditto,
called Saint Mary's Ledge (always out of water), N.E. by E. ^ E. ; Machias Seal Islands
liights (distant about thirteen miles) E. by S. ^ S.

Between the nordiernmost and southernmost of the Murr Ledges, there is a range of
dangerous rocks and shoals, many of them always above water, and which extend west-

* Tlie Commissioners of Lighthouses, in their specification of the lighthouse, annexed thereto the
following remarks, dated St. John, 4th Oct. 1831 : —

This light, from its proximity to several very dangerous ledges and shoals, ought not to l)e run
for ; it is intended to give timely warning to vessels which are, by the rapid tides about these ledges,
frequently drawn into danger, and too often wrecked.

The dangerous siioal called the Old Proprietor, which dries at three-quarters ebb, bears from this
lighthouse K. \ S. about 7^ miles. St. Mary's Ledge, dry at nil limes, S. W. by W. \ W. 1? miU's.
Northerly from this ledge,"the whole space westerly from tho li;;!itliouse, for the distance of five
miles, is full of dangerous ledges, (several of them dry at high water,) called the Murr Ledges : the
inner or northernmost of these ledges bears from the light W.N.W. nearly, and is dry at two-thirds
ebb.

fVithin the Murr Ledges, there is a clear channel round the southwest head of Grand Manan,
which bears from the lighthouse N.W. i N. about 7^ miles. Black Rock, off White Head Island,
bears N.E. | E. about 8 miles. Vessels, except in cases of extremity, ought not to attempt running
between this rock and the Old Proprietor, as there are some dangers in the way, the ground rocky,
and the tides very rapid.

Tlie S.W. point of the Machias Seal Islands bears from this lighthouse W. ^ S. 12 miles, and the
N.E. rock off these islands W.N.W. about the same distance.

d tlie Old
tlie space
s directly
I the islets
tlieastern-
e dangers.

; low and
es visible,
'liese isles,
m 14 to 7

or, form a
wind, are
liuhitants.

passage to

ij; near tlie

ihey may

IS are from

and ledges
Mr. Lock-
iisp, which
he vicinity

of Decem-
distinction;
It has since
s, and suc-
jtical, black

N. of the
istant.

as given
larters' ebb
|r, 25 feet),
Northern-
it of ditto,
;al Islands

la range of
Itend west-

Ithereto the

I to be run
|ese ledges,

from this

13 miles.

jice of five

Xdges : the

Itwo-thirds

Manan,
lid Island,
l»t running
Ind rocky,

s, and the

l»ASSAMAQUODDY BAY.

195

ward from the lighthouse about four miles ; from this range, farther westerly about eight
miles, lies a datii^erous breaker, called the Roaring Bull ; this may be avoided by keeping
three remarkable headlands near the S.VV. end of Grand iManaii, open.

Lights on Macuias Sral Isi.ks. — On the southernmost of these isles are two light-
houses, fiist li;ihtc(l in September, 1832; by which circumstance of two ii'^hlhouses at the
same station, they will be immediately distingnislied from all oilier lights upon tlie coast,
British or American. Uoth the buildings are painted white : they stand at WQ feet apart,
exhibit brilliant fixed lights, horizontally, about 45 feet above high water, and bo,u' iiom
each other, when in a lino, E.S.K. and W.N.W. with the keeper's house belwci'ii them :
these lights bear W.N.NN'. ■} W. 13 miles, from that on the dan' Kock. When in a lino
bearing W.N.W., they lead clear of the ledges lying to the oastw..rd. If iipproaohin<;- to
the latter, a vessel must, of course, tack or stand off to the southward, into ilcep w;iter.

The following are the bearings of the lighthouse, viz. — From ilio .'nullioiimiost Murr
Ledge (St. Mary's), W.N.W. westerly; Gannet Rock Liglit W. by N. ] N. Ki miles;
Southern Head of Grand Manan, W. by S. J S.; Northern Head of (iriind Manan, S.W.
i W.; Northeast Rock, distant two miles, S.W. by S. ; Little River Ihad, S. by K. ;
Libby Island Lighthouse (American) S.E. by E.

Vessels standing in to the northward, between these lights and the (lannet Rock, should
tack or haul off the moment they bring these lights into one, as they will not then bo more
than three-fourths of a mile from the Murr Ledges, if more than five miles to the east of
the lights.

At 3i miles West from the Seal Island Lighthouse, is a rock, not generally known, and
on which several vessels have struck. It was seen by Captain Johnstone, of the ship
Liverpool, trading to St. John's, in 1834, and is acknowledged to exist by the regular
traders and pilots.

The Channel between Grand Manan and the coast of the State of Maine is from 9 to
6 miles wide; both shores bold, the depths quickly increasing on each side, from 12 to 70
and 75 fathoms ; the greatest depths near Manan, where you haul quickly, from 10 to 75.
This is the best passage up the Bay of Tundy, because the safest, and most advantageous
with the prevalent winds, which are from the westward.

The Wolf Islands, which lie eight miles to the N.E. by N. from Grand Manan, are
from GO to 100 feet in height, steep and bold. The passages between them are deep. 'and
they afford temporary shelter, in the depth of from 20 to 12 fathoms. Retween Alanan
and these Isles, the depths vary from 70 to 40 fiithoms, bottom of oaze and mud.

PASSASKAQUOBDV BAV.— The Bay of Passamaquoddy, with the Cliapc-
neticook River, or River of St. Croix, divide the British American territory frona that of
the United States.* Tiie southwestern side of the bay is distinguished by a lighlhou^i!, on
Quoddy Head, which was erected by order of Congress, in the year 1808. This structure
exhibits a fixed light, which, in clear weather, may be seen seven leagues off. Its lantern
is 90 feet above the sea. Near the lighthouse is an alarm-bell, which during foggy weather
will strike ten times in a minute : its sound, in calm weather, may bo heard five miles off.
From the north head of Grand Manan the lighthouse bears W.N.W. -j W. 7 miles; and
from the Machias Seal Islands N.N.E. I E., 17 miles.

Sent Rocks. — At about one quarter of a mile without Quoddy Head lie two remarkable
rocks, called the Seal Rocks, which, at a distance, resemble a ship. To the eastward of
these there is a whirlpool. In passing here it is therefore requisite to give these objects a
berth of half or three-quarters of a mile before you haul in.

There are several passages into Passamaquoddy Bay ; but particularly the southern,
(commonly called the Western,) the Ship Channel or Middle Passage ; and the Norlhern
(commonly called the Eastern) I'attsogc. Tlie first is that between the isle of Canipobedo
and the main land to the S.VV. The Ship Channel is that between Campobello and Deer
Island : the Northern Passage is that along the New Brunswick shore.

• In November, ISl 7, the commissioners appointed by the respective governments, under the
treaty of Ghent, (the last treaty of peace,) decided that Moose, Dudley, and Frederic Islands, in
the Bay of Passamaquoddy, do belong to the United States; and tiiat all the otlicv islands in the
same bay, with Grand Manan, in the Bay of Fundy, do belong to Gieat Britain, by virtue of the
treaty of peace of 1783. The citizens of the United States conliniic to enjoy the right of navigating
through the Ship Clianncl, between Deer Inland and Campobello ; and, of course, through the
channel between Moose and Deer Islands.

■, I

196

ST. ANDREW S.

At 2^ miles N.E. i E. from the northern extremity of Campobello is the White Hone,
appearing at a distance like a white rock; but it is really a small islet, barren and destitute
of trees, while the isles about are covered with them ; it therefore serves as a beacon.

At the N.E. ernl of Campobello is Head llarhonr, a place of easy access, small, but
perfectly safe, willi 0, 7, and 8 fathoms, muddy bottom. A fruod fi.ved liffhl was first
exhibited on tho extreme point of this harbour, 1st Nov. 18<!9, whicli tnahlcs vessels to
enter at all times. The liiflit is elevated about (iO feet, ami the buildinj;; is white, with a
red crnsi f>w it. The fine harbour, culled Harbour Uetute, lies on the west side of tho
island ; and at its S.W. end is Snug Cove, another good harbour, where there is a Hritish
custom-house. Moose Inland, on the opposite side, belongs to the United States, and
British ships are not allowed to ride there above six hours at any one time. In a fine cove
at the south end of this island a ship of 500 tons may lie, moored head and stern, safe from
all winds, but the anchors are very much exposed with wind from the east.

QUODDY HEAD, on which stands the lighthouse above-mentioned, forms the south
side of the Soutliern P.issage, the entrance of which, between Campobello and the Head,
is a mile in breadth ; but the passage gradually narrows to the W.N.W. and N.N.W., and
at two miles up a rorky bar stretches across, which is dry at low water. At rather more
than a mile within the entrance, you may come to anchor, in 4 or 5 fathoms, well sheltered,
either by day or night. Mere a pilot may be obtained, on firintf a gun and making the
usual signal, who will take the ship to Snug Cove or Moose Island, whence another may
be obtained for St. Andrew's, the River Scoodic, or St. Croix, &c.

Laiige Ships for Passamaquoddy Bay, pass to the eastward of Campobello, steering
N.E. by E. and N.E. toward the Wolf Isles, which lie about 6| miles eastward from the
northern part of Campobello. So soon as the passage between Campobello and the White
Horse bears W.N.W., steer for it, leaving the White Horse at a distance on the nortli or
starboard side, and keeping Campobello nearest on board. You will now, proceeding
south westward, leave a group of islands on your starboard side, and will next see Harbour
Delute, above-mentioned.

Between the Wolves and the north end of Campobello, there is a def)tb of from 60 to
100 fathoms. With the latter bearing S.S.E. or S.E. there is a depth of 19 and 20 fathoms,
where ships may anchor securely from all winds. The courses thence to Moose Island are
S.W. by W. i W. and S.W. 5 miles.

Jf bound from Moose Island up the river Scoodic, as you pass Bald Head, opposite Deer
Island, give it a berth of half a mile, as a ledge of rocks lies off' it. Having passed this
point, the course and distance to Oak Point, or Devil's Head, will be N. by W. 4 leagues.
The latter may be seen from the distance of 10 or 12 miles.

ST« ANDREWS. — 2'he Town and Port of St. Andrtw lie on the eastern side of
the entrance of the Scoodic. A small island, Navi/ Island, forms the harbour. This island
is bold-to on its S.W. side, but eastward of it is a shoal bank, stretching nearly half a league
from St. Andrew's Point. The town is a pleasant little place ; and the harbour being good,
many ships load timber here, which is generally much longer than that of Nova Scotia.
The merchants of this town load timber also at other places, viz. at Oak Bay, on the
Scoodic, and at Rushabec, Didiquash, and Magadavick, on the N.E. side of Passama-
quoddy Bay, all being excellent and very convenient harbours. In the bay, in general, are
from 17 to 25 fathoms of water.

ETANG HARBOUR, which lies to the eastward of the North Passage of Passama-
quoddy Bay, is recommended to the mariner as one of the best and most convenient har-
bours in British America. It has two entrances, which, though narrow, have very deep
water, and either may be taken, according to circumstances. The principal one is a mile
and a half N.E. by N. from White Horse Isle, between two islands. Pain and Bliss. To
run into this place, bring the centre of the White Horse to bear S.W. by S., and run north-
ward with that bearing, until you are past a low, flat, rocky point on Bliss or Etang Island.
Having passed this point, keep the island close on board until you come up to a ledge which
shows itself, and which lies off a round island covered with trees on the larboard side. The
ledge is bold close-to. Having advanced thus far, you may anchor near the centre of the
harbour, inclining under the north shore, in 8 or 10 fathoms. The only inconvenience here
is, the extreme tenacity of the ground, for which every precaution should be taken, that the
anchor may not be lost. As the rise and fall of the tide are considerable, a sufficient scope
of cable should, of course, be allowed.

< ►

Eti

Poi

BAY OF FUNpY

197

llorse,
stitute

11, but
IS firsl
sels to
with a
of the
Hritisii
is, and
le cove
fe from

e south
! Head,

v., and
er more
leltcred,
;in';j tlie
lier may

steering
rom the
le White
nortli or
;)ceoding
Harbour

jm CO to
fathoms,
iland are

iite Deer
sed this
leagues.

side of
IS island
a league
ig good,

Scotia.

on the
assama-
eral, are

assama-
ent har-
;ry deep
a mile
b.ss. To
north-
Island.
le which
le. The
of the
jice here
Ithal the
lit scope

^ entrance of Etang Harbour is

vifh 15 to 11 fathoms at the en-

liore' board, ns a reef stretches

•pef nr i i and ^ f.ithonis. From

n ptuge IP bears K.S.E. J E.

BEAVER HARBOUR.— At 5 miles E. by N. fn'
tliat of Beaver Harbour, another snug place of sMi
trance, and 5 in the centre. In sailing in, keep l*ie >\
half-way over from the opposite side: in the line of ihis
the S.K. point of this harbour. Point Lepreau, noticed
11 miles.

TIDES.— Within the Southern Passage of Passama., iddy Hav conrnoi
from 20 to 25 feet. At Moose Island the tide flows at llA, full and change
when strongest, between Moose Island and Marble Island, and between Deei
CampobcUo, nearly five miles an hour. In the Uay, the stream of tide is s
ceptible. On the eastern side of Grand Manan it is high water at 10 h., spn
and neaps 20 feet.

I«?8 riie
>d runs,

luiid and

cely per-

rise 25,

BEARINGS and DISTANCES of PLACES in the Bay of

FUNDY.

{Vuridlion 15° West, 1836.) Mngnetic Distance.

From Jifdiiii^. Miles.

Bryer's Island Lighthouse to Machias Seal Isles N. W. v W. • • 30

the Gannet Rock Lighthouse* • • . N.N.W. |[ W. • • 2S

the Old Proprietor N. ] W. •• 18

the Southern Wolf N. :i W. . . 43

Point Lepreau Lighthouse • • • • • N. by E. • • 49

St. John's Harbour N.N.H. .i E. •• 62

Machias Seal Isles to Little River Head North. •• 8i

the N.W. Head of Grand Manan N.K. by E. . • 20

Quoddv Head Lighthouse N.E.byN. •• 18

the Southern Wolf N.E. .i E. •• 30

Little River to the S.W. Head of Grand Manan S.E. by J:. J, E. • • 10

N.W. Head of Grand Manan E. by N. • • 16

Quoddy Head Lighthouse to the Southern Wolf E.N.E. . • 12

the North Head of Grand Manan E.S.E. .. 9

the S.W. Head of Grand Manan S. } W. .. 11

Machias Seallsles S.W. by S. •• 18

Head Harbour Lighthouse to W hite Horse Islet N.E. .i E. . . 2^

the Northern Wolf E. i S. • • 9

the Southern Wolf S.E. by E. » E. • • 8

the North Head of Grand Manan S. by E. .^ E. • • 12

White Horse Isle to the Ship Channel S.W. by W. .. 2r^

Latete or North Passage N. ^ W. .. ai

Etang Harbour N.E.byN. •• 1.}

Beaver Harbour E.N.E. | E. •• 8

Point Lepreau Lighthouse E. J S. • • 20

the Northern Wolf E.S.E. ^E. •• 7|

the Southern Wolf S.E. • . 7

the N. Head of Grand Manan S. by E. • • 13

West Entrance of Etang Harbour to Head Harbour S.W. by S. • • 4

North end of Grand Manan S .J E. •• 15

Etang Harbour, South Point, to the Northern Wolf S.E. J E. •• 6

the Southern Wolf S.S.E. ^ E. •• 7

Northern Wolf to a Vigia or Shoal E. ^ N. • . 7

Point Lepreau Lighthouse ••••• E. | N. •• 12

Beaver Harbour N. J E. • • 5

Point Lepreau to the Gut of Annapolis S.E. ^ S. •• 37

Petit Passage South. •• 40

Grand Passage • S. by W, • • 46

Bryer's Island Lighthouse • • S. by W. • • 49

North End of Grand Manan S.W. by W. J W. • • 22

Beaver Harbour Head W.N.W. J W. •• 12

Etang Harbour, South Point W. ^ N. • • 10

198

DIRECTIONS FOft TIIK IJAY OF KUNDV.

GKNKUAL REMARKS on, and Diuf.ctions for the Ray of Fundy.

Siiii'S iiavigaling the H.'. v of Fiindy have to encounter an atmosphere almost constantly
t'nveloj)ed in thick foj-s, tides scllinp with ureat rapidity over the rocks and shoals with
which it ahounds, and adiflicully of ol)lainini; anchoraije, on account of the depth of water:
so tliat, under these circumstances, the most uniftniltnig attention is recjuisite, in orch'r lo
prevent the disastrous consequences which must necessarily attend a want of knowledge
and caution.

ir/ien off Cape Sable, with a westerly wind, and destined for the l?ay, it is best lo muko
tlic coast of tiic United States about the Skuttock Hills and Lillle Manan li<.;htliuiise,
described Iiereafter ; as you can pass with greater safety to the westward of (jrand Manan
than to the eastward, and can have shelter, if required, in the several harbours of that coast.
Add to this, that

Vessels bound up the Buy, to St. John's, &c., should make the coast of Maine, on the
west, rather dian the eastern coast, because it is bold, and the prevalent winds from the
westward may secure the passage ; also that, during the summer months, the sky and
horizon are generally quite clear on the United States' coast, while the shores of Nova Scotia
and greater i)art of the Bay of Fundy are enveloped in fog.

On proceeding to the westward of the JNIachias Seal Isles, be cautious in avoiding the
rOck lying 3^ miles to the west of the lighthouse on these isles, as shown in page 195.

Between Grand Manan and the coast of Maitu; the passage is free from danger ; vessels
beating through, generally stand from side to side, particularly in fogs, the depth being
from 12 to 72 fathoms, with a bold shore on each side, and the tide tlirough regular and
strong. The Wolf Islands may be passed on either side, having deep water close-to : but
aftbrd no sheltered anchorage, except for small fishing vessels in summer time ; they arc,
as already noticed, from 60 to 100 feet high. With light winds, a lee tide, or thick vvciitlier,
you may let go an anchor anywhere between the Wolf Islands and Beaver Harbour, in
good holding ground, in a depth of '20 or 25 fathoms. Point Lepreau is bold-to, but was
formerly dangerous in dark weather, as it projects so far into the sea. Its lighthouse, with
double lights, as described on page 193, is now an excellent guide. Hence to St. John's
the course is free from danger.

When stoering between Grand Manan and Bryer^s Island, the utmost caution is requi-
site during thick weadier, as vessels are frequently drawn amongst the islands and ledges
to the southward of Manan, by the flood's setting directly on them : the most dangerous of
these is the Old Proprietor, which at low water is uncovered for the space of half an acre.
When the wind, therefore, veers at all to the southward, make the best of your way to
St. John's Harbour, or you may secure an anchorage in Grand Passage, or St. Mary's Bay,
as it seldom blows in that direction above eighteen hours without bringing on a fog.

The Prevailing Winds here, and on all the coasts of Nova Scotia, are from W.S.W.
to S.W., nearly as steady as trade winds; excepting that, during the summer months, they
are rather more southerly, accompanied with but little intermission by fog, which requires
a northwesterly wind to disperse it. It is therefore recommended, not to leave an anchor-
age without making arrangements for reaching another before dark, or the appearance of a
fog coming on, which, with a S.W. wind is so sudden, that you are unawares enveloped in
it ; nor to keep at sea during the night, if it can be avoided. Whenever the wind blows
directly oflfthe land, the fog is soon dispersed.

T/)e Tides are ven/ rapjt/, but regular ; and, although the wind against them alters the
direction of the rippling, and sometimes makes it dangerous, it has little or no effect upon
their courses. The flood sets from Cape Sable to the northwestward through the Seal
Islands and Tuskets, at two or three knots in the hour; after which its rate increases
to four or five knots; thence taking the direction of the shore, it flows past Cape St. Mary,
and then N.N.W. toward Bryer's Island ; it sets but slowly up the extensive Bay of St.
Mary, which adds to its strength along the eastern shore; then, increasing its rapidity as
the Bay contracts, it rushes in a bore into tire Basin of Mines, and up Chignecto Bay.

Between Bryer's Island and the opposite northern coast, and for some distance up the
Bay to the eastward, the first of the flood sets strongly to the northward (nearly north) ; so
that it will be extremely dangerous for a vessel to run in the night, or thick weather, from
any part of the southern to the northern coast, without making a large allowance for the set
of the tide, and keeping the lead constantly going. II. M. sloop Jaseur was nearly ashore,
having been set by this tide in a fog 8j^ miles in 3 hours and 10 minutes.

ii
.'I

is
tl
Ji
n;
ar

MACHiAs Day.

199

V. -Thr coasts of Tiir. UNITED STATES, from

I^ASSAMAQUODDY TO THE PliNOlJSCOT RiVKH.

icqui-

Uuy,

v.s.w.

IS, ilicy
requires
anclior-
ice of a
oped in
blows

Hers the
ct upon
Ihe Seal

tcreases

Mary,

of St.

dity as

|ay.

I up the

[til); so

|r, from

the set

I ashore,

TiiF. most remarkable elevations of laixl between the IJ.iy of Passamaquoddy and Cane
Klizabulh are, the Sknttuvic Ilit/s, Mount Jhscrt llilh, and llUli of Vcnofmot, Tlio
Skmtoek bills are five in number, and, at a distanee, appear round; they stand to the
northward of the Port of (JouUlsboroiigii, and are readily distingviishable from any hills (o
the eastward. The Mount Desert Hills may, in clear weather, lie seen from a distance of
15 to 21) leagues. The Penobscot lldls may be seen to the N.W. and N.N.W. over the
Fox Islands. When within 4 or tive leagues of the Mount Desert Hills, the SkuUuck lldls
will bear about N.N.E.

In sailing toward this coast, the lit;htliou!»o on Mount Desert Hock will bo seen : this
rock lies 7. i leagues to the soulliwanl of Mount Desert Island, in latitude 43-' .5 '2', and
longitiulc (jfi° 3i': observe here to make proper allowance for the tide, \c. .\t Mount
Dcseii Uoek the stre.im of flood divides to run wcstwaid and eastward. With the Skuttoek
ilills about N.N.K., and within l or .5 leagues of those of Mount Desert, the tide of flood
sets K.N.K., and the ebb W.S.W.; but at the distance of 9 or 10 leagues from the land,
the current, in general, sots to the S.W., and more westward. From tiie Mount Desert
Hock to the Fox Ishuuls the flood-stieam sots W.S.W. along shore; but it still runs up to
the northward into Blue Hill Sound, Isle Haute Bay, \'C.

The Lifiimioi'sr on Moi'nt Di si;ut Kock is consjiicuous ; and it exhibits n fixed li^ifit,
tinged frd, at .SG feet above the sea, which commenced on the night of tlie'2Ulb Aug. Ui.JO.

ZMCACKZAS BAV,— The entrance of the Bay or Pout of Macuias, in the State
of Maine,* bears N.W. [N. 00° IF.] 15 leagues from layer's Island Lighthouse; N.W.
by W. i W. [ IF. hi/ N.] 22 miles from the lighthouse on the Gannet Hock"; and N.W, j N.
miles from the lighlnouses of the Machias Seal Isles. The last mentioned point and
(iannet Rock are nearly tniu east and west from each other, at the distance of 14 miles,
and between them lie several dangerous ledges. Of these ledges, tho southernmost, called
St. Marj/\s, is a mile and tlirec-ciuarters W.S.NW from the (Jannet

Directly fronting the F.ntrance of Machias, within the distance of a league, are two little
isles, called the Libbce or Ijbj/ Isles, on the southernmost of wi ich is a modern lif^/it/iouse,
exhibiting a fixed light, in or near latitude 44° 3.5', and tlevati d GO feel above the level of
the sea. At a league N.F. J N. from this lighthouse is the S.N\ . end of Cross Island, which
forms the eastern side of the entrance to the Bay.

On advancing toward Machias Bay from the Seal Isles, and steering N.W. i W., you will
gain sight of the Libbee. Isles Liglitltoiise, which is to be left on the larboard side; rounding
these isles, you thence proceed north into the Bay. On this course you will leave a large
white rock, called the Channel Rock, on your larboard side: and unless bound upward into
Machias Harbour, may haul to the westward. When you have advanced half a mile above
this rock, bring a high round island, which is covered with trees, to bear iiorih, when you
may anchor in 4 or 6 fathoms, muddy bottom. If you mean to go up to the town of
Machias, keep on a north course, until you have advanced above a high round island on
your larboard band, when you may steer W.N.W. or N.W. by W, for a point covered with
birch-trees, and having a house on it. On the starboard hand there are flats and shoals.
You may keep on the larboard after you pass this house, until the river opens to the north-
ward, when you may run up to Cross River, and anchor in 4 fathoms.

• Tlie State, formerly Distiuct of Maink, containing, according to tlie census of 1840,
501,79:5 iiiliabitants, is bountlcd on the cast by New Brunswick, as already noticed, and on the
west by New Hampshire. The face of tlie country is generally hilly, but not mountainous; the
coast indented with bays, and abounding with excellent harbours. The soil, on the scu-coast, is
stony and barren, liut more fertile in the interior, producing grain, grass, &c. The minerals are
iron, copperas, sulphur, and ochres. The summer here is short, but agreeable ; the autumn clear
and healthy ; winter long and severe ; spring, as in Canada, very short. The Penobscot, Kennebec,
Androscoggin, and Saco, are its principal rivers. This state is not yet thickly peopled, but slavery
is here unknown. Portland, the seat of the provincial government, is situate on a good harbour in
the S.W., as descril)ed hereafter. The ports of entry for foreign ships are Machias, Frenchman's
Bay, Castine or Penobscot, Wiscasset, Bath, PortlanJ, Falmouth, Saco, and Pepperelboro'. The
names printed in Italics are those of porta to which vessels from or beyond the Cape of Good Hope
are restricted.

200

MACHTAS TO GOULDSBORO .

l\ I

\ ■

Machias is the chief town of Washington County, in the state of Maine. Its present
population is 1351 persons.

Little Riveu Habbouh is about a league and a half E.N.E. fronn Cross Island. It
may afford occasional shelter. Tlie entrance bears N.W. by W. ^ W., 10 miles from the
S.W. Head of Grand Manan, and north, 8i miles, from the western Seal Island. It cannot
be seen until you approach the northern shore; and the pilots say you should not run for it
before it bears N.W. or N.N.W. There is a bluff" point of rocks on the starboard hand,
going in, and an island in the middle of the harbour. On going in, leave the island on
your larboard side, and when you have passed it half a mile you may anchor in 4 or 5
fathoms, muddy bottom, and be protected from all winds. The land between this harbour
and Quoddy Head trends N.E. by E. 4 leagues,

MACIilAS to GOULDSTJORU'.—In proceeding from Machias toward Gouldsboro',
you will pass numerous islands on the starboard hand, with many inlets and good har-
bours, but generally too intricate for strangers to attempt with safety. On quitting Machias
Bay, you hrst pass the Libbee Islands, thence llend Harbour Island, the Wass Islands, &c.
The course and distance from off" the Libbee Islands to a berth off" the Great Wass Island,
are S.W. by W. 10 miles; and from the latter to the Little Manan Isle W. by S. 13 miles.

INIoosPECK Head Light. — On Mistake Isle, three leagues S.W. \ W, from the Libbee
Island light, is a tower, with revolving light, at 54 feel above the sea, and which is eclipsed
twice in every four minutes. It is, therefore, readily distinguished from that of the Libbee
Isles to the N.E. and another on the Little Manan, at 11 miles to the S.W. At 6 leagues
off", the duration of light and dark appears nearly equal ; but, on approaching, the time of
darkness will diminish, and that of light increase. Within the distance of 5 or 6 miles,
there will still appear a small interval of darkness.

On Little Manan, a small islet, is a lighthouse of stone, which exhibits ^ fixed light, at
53 feet above the level of the sea, although the building itself is only '^5 feet high. From
the lighthouse the entrance of the Port of Gouldsboro' bears N.W. J N. A\ miles. At the
entrance is an islet covered with trees on the eastern, and two on the western side. Within
the entrance, the harbour is a mile wide, and you may anchor in from 4 to 6 fathoms,
where you please. The course in is N.N.W., then N. | W. 4 miles; and thence W, by N,
to (louldsboro*.

The Skuttock Hills, already mentioned, form a good mark for Gouldsboro', as they lie
to the northward of the harbour. Hence, by bringing them in that direction, and steering
on that course, you will, on approaching the harbour, see the Little Manan Lighthouse,
which is to be left on the larboard hand.* The latter stands at about a league to the
southward of. the point between Dyer's Bay and Figeon Hill Bay : it is connected with the
land by a rocky ledge or bar, which is partly uncovered with the ebb.

DYER'S BAY. — Immediately to the eastward of the entrance to Gouldsboro' is Dyer's
Bay, which you may Qnter by giving Little Manan a berth of half a mile, leaving it on the
starboard hand. If you bring the light to bear N.E., at three-iuarters of a mile, a N. by W.
course will carry you into the mouth of the bay, leaving a large dry ledge on the larboard
hand: when abreast of this ledge, which is bold-to, give it a berth of 15 or 16 fathoms,
then steer N. ^ K, about 4 miles, where you may anchor, safe from all winds, in 4 or 5
fathoms, muddy bottom.

PLEASANT BAY, or the Mouth of Pleasant River, is two leagues to the N.E.
of Little Manan Lighthouse. Here you pass the islet called Petit-manan, and several dan-
gerous ledges, for this place, therefore, as in all the other harbours of this coast, a pilot
is indispensable.

a berth off" the Great Wass Island, already noticed,
13^ miles; and from the latter to the Libbee light"
10 miles.

GOULDSBOROUGH to Blue Hill Bay. — At two leagues without the harbour of
Gouldsborough, to the S.W. is Scoodic Point, with its three islets, forming the west side
of the entrance of Frenchman's Bay, or the N.E. harbour of Mount Desert. Next follow
the Cranberry Isles, to the S.E. of the same island.

From Little Manan Lighthouse to
the course and distance are E. by N.
house, off" Machias Bay, N.E. by E.

* The pilots say that a ledge, called Moidion's Ledge, and dry at low tides, lies W, by N. 4 miles
from the lighthouse ; a sunken ledge, with 7 feet of water oil it, S.E. by E. 5 miles from the same ;
another of 12 feet, S.S.W. 4 miles.

.M.

, , Its present

ss Island. It
niles from the
id. It cannot
; not run for it
arboard hand,
I the island on
chor in 4 or 5
n this harbour

I Gouldsboro',
ind good har-
itling Machias
S.S IslandH, &c.
: Wass Island,
by S. 13 miles.

om the Libbee
lich is eclipsed
t of the Libbee
At 6 leagues
ng, the time of
f 5 or 6 miles,

I Jixed light, at
it high. From
miles. At the

II side. Within
• to 6 fathoms,
»ence VV. by N.

ro', as they lie
and steeling

in Lighthouse,
ague to the

lected with the

joro is Dyer's

iving it on the

jle, a N.byW.

the larboard

)r 16 fathoms,

Is, in 4 or 5

to the N.E.
several dan-
coast, a pilot

pady noticed,
jibbee light-

le harbour of

Ithe west side

Next follow

jy N. 4 miles
jm the same ;

PENOBSCOT BAY AND RIVER. b.

Baker's Island, which is the outermost of the Cianbprry Isles, is now distinguished b^
a lighthouse, exhibiting a brilliant fixed light, at 70 feet above the sea, which bears from
that on ihe Little Manan W.S.W. 5 leagues.

To the S.S.VV. of the Cranberry Isles are the Duck Islands, off ihe entrance of Blue Hill
Bay, or the S.W. harbour of Mount Desert. To enter tiiis harbour, leave the two Duck
Islands on the starboard side, and Long Island with a cluster of other islands on the
larboard. It is not safe for a stranger to run in during the night, as there is a great ledge,
which is uncovered at half-tide, about one mile from the harbour. This is to be left on the
starboard hand. There is also a long ledge on the larboard side, which extends half a mile
off: there is, however, a good turning channel between. The S.^V. passage is not fit for
large vessels at low water; but, at high water, any one may enter, by keeping nearest to
the starboard shore when sailing in. With the harbour open, you may steer N.W. or
W.N.W., and anchor, when well up, in 5 or 6 fathoms, muddy bottom; where, with
any wind, you will lie safely. Here, however, as in every other part hereabout, a pilot
is required. '•*

PENOBSCOT BAY and RIVER. — This extensive bay is included between
Point Naskeag and Sodgwick Point on the N.E., and White Head on the S.W. : the
distance between these points is 10 leagues; and it therefore includes the Isle Haute, Deer
Island, the Fox Islands, Isleborough or Long Island, and a multitude of small isles, rocks,
and ledges. Through the bay, to the mouth of the river of its name, the western channel
is by the headland on the west, called Owl^s Head: thence, by Isleborough on the west,
and Cape Rosier on the east, to Bagaduce Point or Castine River.

The Eastern Entrance is between Isk Haute on the w^st, and the smaller isles on the
east, through a channel called Long Reach, formed by the shore of Sedgwick on one side,
and Deer Island on the other, until it unites with the main channel between Cape Rosier
and Isleborough or Long Island. Above this, on the east, stands Fort Castine, near to
which is the town of Castine, opposite to Penobscot, which was incorporated in 1796.
Castine is the port of entry.

The noble river which empties its waters into the bay, and which is now decorated with
numerous townships, is the most considerable in the state of Maine,- and has its sources
about 130 miles above the inlet of Castine. The head of tide and navigation is, however,
at Bangor, about 30 miles from the same : but vessels of thirty tons may approach within a
mile of this place. At the entrance of the river is a depth of 10 fathoms.

From Mount Desert Rock and Lighthouse, (noticed on page 199,) to White Head,
having also a Lighthouse with a fixed light, the bearing and distance are W.N.W. 13
leagues. White Head Island has been so called from the numerous white rocks about it.
The light is brilliant and fixed, at 58 feet above the level of the sea; and though of a
secondary class, is important to all vessels entering from the westward by the Muscle
Ledges, on the western side of the entrance.

By proceeding from Mount Desert Rock, on a W.N.W. course, you leave the Isle Haute
and Fox Islands on the starboard, the Seal Rock, Metinicus Isles, and Green Islands, on
the larboard side, and thus arrive off the Muscle Ledge Isla7ids, which lie to the northeast-
ward of White Head lighthouse, on the western side of the bay. In pursuing this course,
yo-.. ,vill see, on the larboard side, a lighthouse to the southward of the Metinicus Isles,
having two lanterns, one at each end of the building, and exhibiting distinct fixed lights,
each at 82 feet above the level of the sea. When these lights appear in one, they bear
N.N.W. The lights are on the outer fFooden Ball Rock, and not on the Island of
Metinicus, as they have been represented on ?.he charts.

On the western side of the bay, at seven |fniles above White Head lighthouse, is OwVs
Head,* having also a lighthouse, with brilMnt fiaed lights, at 150 feet above the level of
the sea. The fairway course to this head^ N.VV. by N. Having advanced to this point,

er|h si

• Owl s Head forms a cove on its norther|h side, in which a vessel may take occasional shelter, as
It lies open to the wind at E. by N. and EiN.E. The directions for sailing in an-, to bring a rocky
point, which will be on the starboard side, to bear N.E., and a le.lgc of rocks that lie without that
point E.N.E., and anchor in 4 fathoms, muddy bottom.

Hereabout the tide of flood sets to the ) northeastward, and the tide of ebb S.W. through the
Muscle Ledges. >

2 D

PENOBSCOT BAY AND KIVER.

200

^uu may bear away for either side of Isleborougli or Long Island ; proceeding, according
to Chart, past Belfast iJay and Brigadier Island, keeping the larboard shore on board.
When you pass Brigadier Island for Old Fort Point, {Fort PownaU,) observe, before you
come to it, that an extensive ledge of rocks lies about three-quarters of a mile t the
E.S.E. of it, which is uncovered at half-tide. These rocks are readily discoverable i

the wind blows, by the breakers. You may pass within a cable's length of Fort F ^ .1 m
smooth water.

Besides the lighthouses above mentioned, for the navigation of the Penobscot, there
is now a small harbour-light on Brrwns Head, which forms the western side of the Fox
Island Passage, with a fixed light at a short distance from shore, and 80 feet above high
water mark. »

On Dices Island, upon the eastern side of the river, at the entrance of Castine Harbour,
is another lighthouse, with a fixed light, at 1 16 feet ; and very useful to vessels going up or
down the river.

On Marshall's Point, at the entrance of Herring Gut, to the S.W. of the Penobscot, and
N.W. of Metinic Isle, there is also a small fixed light, at 30 feet.

' If bound up the river, from Old Fort Point, with the wind a-head, and an ebb-tide, you
may make a good harbour in the East River, at about a league E.N.E. from that point.
The entrance of this river is on the south side of Orphan Island; here you may lie safe
from all winds, and anchor in 8 or 7 fathoms, good holding ground. You leave Orphan
Island, and several rocks which are above water, on the larboard hand. If requisite, you
may anchor to the N.W. of the island, on the starboard hand, before you pass through ;
but, with the wind and tide favourable, you may proceed up to Marsh Bay, keeping
toward the larboard shore. Marsh Bay is a league and a half above Orphan Island. When
passing it, keep nearly in the middle of the river, and you will have neither rocks nor shoals
until you arrive at the falls.

CASTINE. — ^To SAIL up to Castine, &c. by the S,E. and eastern side of Isleborough,
the course is N.E. by N., keeping the island on the larboard hand. To go into the har-
bour, by Bagaduce Point, so soon as the entrance bears E.N.E., run in on that direction,
keeping the middle of the channel on your starboard side until you pass the first island,
giving that island a berth of half a mile ; then haul to the southward, until the island
bears W.S.W., when you may anchor in 8 or 10 fathoms, muddy bottom, and lie safely
from all winds. The tide here rises, on the full and change, 10 or 11 feet, and flows at
10 h. 45 m.

To ENTER PENOBSCOT BAY, /row the. S,W.— On approaching White Head, or its
lighthouse, be careful not to haul in for it until it bears N.E., as you will thus avoid the
ledges of rocks lying without the head. Within these ledges, at about a pistol-shot from
shore, there is a safe passage. In passing the head, to the eastward, you will see a good
harbour, on the larboard hand, called Seal Harbour, and in which a vessel may lie safely
with any wind. In going into this harbour, give the larboard shore a berth, in order to
avoid a sunken ledge, extending about two-thirds over, and which breaks with any sea,
excepting at high water.

Vessels of 60 or 70 tons may double close around the head of the light, and anchor right
abreast of the river in the harbour. Those taken with calm and ebb-tide may anchor any-
where off the light in from 12 to 20 fathoms. If the wind takes you at N.E. and ebb-tide,
ab that you cannot get into Seal Harbour, you may run into Tennant Harbour, which bears
by S. from White Head, about 4 miles distant.

The description of the Coasts of the United States, S^c, S. W. of the Penobscot,
is continued in ike Colombian Navigato^^ Vol. I., published by Mr, Laurie.

,1. Rider, Printer, 4, Bartholome\w Close, London

:eeiling, according
1 sliore on board,
bserve, beforo you
of a mile t the
liscoverable i

\i of Fort F J .1 in

Penobscot, there
1 side of the Fox
\0 feet above high

Castine Harbour,
essels going up or

le Penobscot, and

an ebb-tide, you
. from that point.
! you may lie safe
'ou leave Orphan

If requisite, you
ou pass through;
rsh Bay, keeping
lan Island. When
r rocks nor shoals

le of Isleborough,

go into the har-
on that direction,
} the first island,
, until the island
m, and lie safely
eet, and flows at

^Atte Head, or its
'ill thus avoid the

1 pistol-shot from
)u will see a good
sel may lie safely
lerth, in order to
laks with any sea,

and anchor right
may anchor any-
.E. and ebb-tide,
bour, which bears

'-* '

the Penobscot,
y Mr. Laurie.