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Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est filmd d partir de Tangle supdrieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n6cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 S t BI^ GUI CHAR Tin-: BRITISH AMERICAN NAVIGATOR; >"» -I -■■V, - OH SAILING DIRECTORY FOR THE ISLAND AND BANKS OF NEWFOUNDLAND, THE GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE, Breton Ssilanlr, NOVA SCOTIA, THE RAY OF FUNDY, AND THE COASTS THENCE TO THE RIVEll PENOBSCOT, &c. ■M ^ I i! OniOINALLY COMPOSED By JOHN PURDY, Hydrographer; AND COMPLETED, FROM A GREAT • VARIETY OV DOCUMENTS, PUHUC AND PRIVATE, By ALEX. G. FINDLAY. ^ LONDON: PRINTED FOR R. H. LAURIE, CHAKT-SELLER TO THE ADMIRALTY, THE HON. CORPORATION OF TRINITY-HOUSE, kc No. 53, FLEET STREET. 1843. i i i ■A i>_ "■ •'*•.'?•>. : ->'t ^\^jr' ;:iii2£aa£; .■i.":. rriar- r._. y 187056 ADVERTISEMENT. The following Charts will be found particularly adapted to this Work, and are distinguished by the seal, as in the title-page : — 1. A GENERAL CHART of the ATLANTIC OCEAN, according to the Observa- lions, Surveys, and Determinations, of the most eminent Navigators, British and Foreign; from a Combination of which the whole has been deduced, by John Purdy. With parti- cular Plans of the Roadstead of Angra, Terceira, Ponta-Delgada, St. Michael's, of the Channel between Fayal and Pico, Santa-Cruz to Funchal, &c. On four large sheets. With additions to the present time. \6s. ',• The new Chart of the Atlantic may be had in two parts, one containing the northern and the other the southern sheets ; being a form extremely convenient for use at sea. 2. The ATLANTIC, or WESTERN OCEAN, with Hudson's Bay and other adjacent Seas ; including the Coasts of Europe, Africa, and America, from sixty-five degrees of North Latitude to the Equator ; but without the particular Plans above mentioned. Reduced, chiejly, from the larger Charts by John Purdy, and beautifully engraved on two large sheets. 8s. 3. A Chart of the ISLAND and BANKS of NEWFOUNDLAND, and the coasts between Belle Isle and Boston, Cape Cod, (Sec. ; including the Gulf and River of St. Lawrence, Nova Scotia, and the Bay of Fundy : compiled from recent surveys by British and French officers, and the positions adjusted from numerous observations. Con- structed by John Purdy, and drawn by A. G. Findlay. With a new Sailing Directory. 12s, 4. GULF of St. LAWRENCE.— Trtc Gulf of St. Lawrence and Breton Island, on a large scale. From actual Surveys and Astronomic Observations. With particular I'lans of the Gut of Canso, Louisbourg Harbour, Sydney or Spanish River, Ristigouche Har- bour, the Mingan Isles, &c. Two Sheets, 12s. 5. The RIVER of St. LAWRENCE, from Anticosti to Montreal, constructed on the Plan of the former Chart, made under the Orders of Admiral Sir Chas. Saunders, K.B. and composed from the late Surveys, with adjusted Longitudes, &c. Three large sheets, 1842, 12s. 6. NOVA SCOTIA.— Nora Scotia, with a Part of Breton Island; including the Bay of Fundy, and South Coast of New Brunswick ; with Plans of the Harbours of Halifax, Shelburne, Liverpool, &c. Improved Edition, 8$. 7. UNITED STATES.—^ large General Chart of the American Coast, from Halifax, in Nova Scotia, to Philadelphia ; with Plans of the following Harbours, viz. Halifax, St. John's, New Brunswick, Portland, Portsmouth, Newbury-port, Annisquam, Boston, Newport, or Rhode Island, and New York, 10s. 6d For Sailing Directions, &c., see page xxvi. tit sen ERRATA. Page 78, line 20, for Fork read Forteau. 123, 7 from bottom, the latitude of Quebec is 46° 48' 9", should be lat. 46° 49' 8" [lEuteittl nt ^tationci'i^' %}a\l] '^••p.. A !) D II C S S. The following woik was at first intended to have been piiblislied under tlie title of the " Cabotian Navigatoii,"* and to form the first volume of a series which comprehends a description of the Atlantic seaboard of the Ameri- cixn continent, by the late Mr. Joiix Puimv, whose works will remain an honourable and lasting memorial of the zeal and talent which, for upwards of forty years, were so successfully and usefully exerted in advancint^ the science of Hydrography. But, as the attempt would be futile to impose a name upon a territory which has no general designation, however desirable it would be to give the name of Carot to the country that he made known to modern times, the title of the " British American Navigator" has been adopted. Three editions of a previous work on the same subject, under the title of the " Newfoundland Directory," have been honoured with the public approbation; but, from the more complete knowledge we now possess of those regions, it was found necessary to remodel the whole of it, and to abandon a title which would be manifestly inapplicable to its entire contents. The former work was composed from the labours of Captain James Cook, the circumnavigator, whose survey of the western coasts of Newfoundland is still the best we have; from Messrs. Holland, Bouchette, Captain Bayfield, &C. in the Gulf and River of St. Lawrence ; from Messrs. Lock wood, Des Barres, and others, on the coasts of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, &c. ; and these, as far as they were available, are retained in the present work ; but, from the great amount of information we have latterly acquired of these regions, it will be found that the present volume is far more complete than its predecessors. For the eastern coasts of Newfoundland, we have availed ourselves of the works of Captain F. Bullock, W. Bullock, and G. Holbrook, the Admiralty surveyors, which form a complete guide to this singular and rugged coast. In the description and directions for the N.E. portion, we have included the sub- 1 * * See Vol. I. page 2!), of "Newfoundland in 1842," by Sir Ilicliaid Heniy Bonnycastle; an interesting work, containing a complete history and description of the island of Newfoundland. b V ADDRESS. stance of the Instructions given by M, Ch. Lavaud, of the French marine, which will be found of great service ; while on the chart accompanying the present work is given the survey of the Banks of Newfoundland by the same officer, which delineates minutely these vast submarine elevations, and the chart of which is the best description that can be given. The valuable surveys of Capt. Henry Wolsey Bayfield, R.N., F.R.S. (which are still in progress) in the River and Gulf of St. Lawrence, and the coast of Labrador, have given an entirely new feature to our knowledge of that part of our possessions ; and the complete delineation and ample directions which we now have of the northern shore of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, will divest this desolate and inhospitable region of many of the dangers which were formerly so much dreaded, and it will be seen that it can now be navigated with com- parative safety. To Lieut. Charles Hare, R.N., Mr. Jeffery, M.R.N. , Mr. E. Dunsterville, and other gentlemen, we have to express our thanks for many valuable commu- nications, which are embodied in the work ; and, in laying it before the public, we do it with a hope that it will be found worthy of their attention. At the same time, we earnestly solicit communications for its future improvement : these, as being original and authentic, are doubly valuable, as adding to our knowledge, and as being beneficial to the public service. A, G. F. October, 1843. CONTENTS. PAUb GENERAL TABLE of the Positions, or of Latitudes and Longi- tudes of Places described, with the pages in which their respective Descriptions may be found •.. x NOTES referred to in the preceding Table, showing the Authorities, &c., including the Variations of the Compass xvi PHARONOLOGY, &c xxi PART L NEWFOUNDLAND, &c. L— Of the Winds, Currents, Ices, and Passages to Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, &c % Winds, 1 ; Phenomena westward of Newfoundland, 2 ; Currents, &c., 4 ; Wrecks in St. Shot's Bay, Comus, llarpooner, and H.M.S. Drake, 6 ; Spence and Marslial Macdonald, 7 ; Passages from England, in the Spring, 8; in the Fall', 9; Icebercis and Tees, 11 ; Wrecks of the Harvest Home, Lady of the Lake, President, William Rrown, &c., 11, 12; Preservation of Life at Sea, 13 ; General Directions for the Gulf, 13. n. — The Island and Banks of Newfoundland General Remarks and Description of Newfoundland, 14; the City of St. John, 15; Conception Bay, 16; The Banks of Newfoundland, 16; Virgin Rocks, 18. 14 EASTERN AND NORTHERN COASTS OF NEWFOUNDLAND. I. — Cape Spear and St. John's Harbour to Cape St. Francis 19 Cape Spear and Lighthouse, 19 ; Harbour of St. John, and Directions, 19; St. John's to Conception Bay, 20 ; Black Head to Cape St. Francis, 20. IT. — Conception Bay, between Cape St. Fra:)2is and Bacalieu Island.. 20 Conception Bay, 20; Bay Verde, 21; Carbomo ••:;, 21; Harbour Grace, 21 ; Bay Robert, 22 ; Brigus, 23 ; Collier Bay and Harbour Main, 23. III. — Trinity Bay, between Bacalieu and Cape Bonavista .' 9.3 Trinity Bay, 23 ; Old Perlican, 23 ; New Perlican, 23 ; Port Bonaventure, 24; Trinity Harbour, 24; Rugged Harbour, 25; Cataliua Harbour, 25 j Bird Islands, 26. IIII. — Bonavista Bay, between Cape Bonavista and Cape Freels 26 Cape Bonavista, 26 ; Bonavista Harbour, 27 ; Bonavista Bay, 27 ; Blackhead Bay, 27; Great Chance Harbour, AOC III.— Halifax Harbour, and the Coast thoncc westward, to Cape ftabio .. 170 General Description, 170; Halifax Harbour and Halifax, 171 ; Directions for the Harbour, 173; (leneral remarks on the Coast westward, 175; Hearings and Distances of Places between Halifax and Cape Sable, 8cc., 175; S irnbro' Harbour, 8cc., 17fi; Margaret's Hay, 177; Malione Hay, 17H; Malaguash or Lunenburg Harbour, 17R; ('ape lo llavr, 17'.) ; Port Med- way, 179; Liverpool Hay, 180; Port Mouton, 100; Sholburnc Harbour, 181; Negro Harbour, IWi; Harrinjjton Hay, 183; Capo Sable, 183; Hriisil Rock, 183. IV. — The Bay of Fundy, and the Coasts between Cape Sable and Passamaquoddy Bay 184 General (Cautions, Tides, &c., 1B4 ; Seal Island, Mud Isles, and Tusket Isles, 1B5; Cape Fourchu, 186; Hrycr's Island, 18(1 ; Long Island, and the May of St. Mary, 187 ; May of Fundy, continued, 187; Annapolis, 108 ; Masin of Mines, 188; ('hignocto Hay, lO'J ; North Coast of the Hay of Fundy, 189; ()uako Ledge and Lighthouse, 180; St. John's, New Hrunswick, 190; Directions, by Mr. Backhouse, 191 ; Remarks on St. John's, by Mr. Lock- wood and Capt. Napier, 191; Port Signals, 192; Point Lepreau, 193; Grand Manan, &c., 193; Machias Seal Isles, 195; Passamacjuoddy Hay, 195; Qnofldy Head, 196 ; St. Andrew's and Ftang Harbour, 196 ; Heaver Harbour, Tides, 197 ; Hearincs and Distances of Places in tlie Hay of Fundy, 197; General Remarks and Directions for the Hay of Fundy, 190. V. — The Coasts of the United States, from Passamaquoddy to the Penobscot River 199 Mount Desert Rock, 199; Machias Bay, 199 ; Machias to Gouldsboro', 200; Moospeck Head I.i'jthl, Dyer's Hay. and Pleasant Hay, 200; Penobscot Bay and River, 201 ; (^astinc, tkc, 202. r- l.'JI 15 •I OF . 160 . 165 r GENERAL TABLE of the POSITIONS, on of the Latitudes and Longitudes, of the Principal Points AND Places described hereafter ; with the Pages ON which the respective Descriptions may be found. *^* Tlie Longitudes are from the raeridi.jn of Greenwich. Tiie Figures in Brackeis, thus, [4], refer to the Notes subjoined to tiie Table. i) i ! i NEWFOUNDLAND, commencing wrui THE S.E. Coast. ' LATITUDE N. LONCilTUnE W. PAGES. Cape Speau ; Light rev. 27ofU one m. St. JOHN'S; South Head; Light F. [1] Cape St. Francis Harbour Grace ; Light at entrance, F. • > • Cuiboniere Bacalieu ; North point of [2] Bonaventure Head Trinity Harbour ; entrance Horsechops Catalina ; South Head North Head « • • Bonavista Gull Island [3] Young HaiTy Reef • • • Bonavista Bay ; Southern Head Western Head Little Denier Isle • Gieat Black Island ; centre Malone's Ledge Offer Gooseberry Island , . . . . Shoe Cove Point Fools' Isle, off the N.W. Ami Stinking Islands Charge Rock (6 feet) Cape Freels ; Cape Ridge [4] I'reel's Gull Island Outer Cat Island Deadman's Point Rugged Point Brenton Rock • • • • Funk Island ; East point Stark's Breakers • Durell's Lodge, or Snap Rock (10 feet) Inspector Rock (sometimes breaks) • • • Ireland Rock (always breaks) Cape Fogo ; S.E. extremity Offer (Outer) Wadham Isle; centre • • • Fogo Harbour ; Eastern islet [5] ... / ff / " 1 47 30 53 52 33 27 19, 49 47 34 •2 52 3(5 50 ' 15, 19 47 48 4 52 43 41 20 47 42 48 53 5 58 21, 22 47 44 30 53 10 40 21 48 9 1 52 44 4() 20 48 16 30 53 18 10 24 48 21 30 53 10 50 24, 25 48 21 30 53 8 30 24 48 27 38 53 52 25 48 32 28 52 50 6 25 48 42 40 52 59 20 26 48 48 5 52 58 15 20 48 37 15 53 10 20 48 37 15 53 22 26 48 40 50 53 30 50 28, 29 48 50 8 53 32 15 30 48 53 30 53 24 40 30 48 58 20 5.:; 27 30 49 4 40 53 31 30 31 49 9 15 53 30 30 31 49 13 40 53 JO 20 31, 32 49 18 53 17 10 32 49 19 53 20 8 32 49 19 6 53 20 58 32 49 23 25 53 32 20 32 49 25 18 53 37 30 33 49 30 53 54 33 49 41 53 15 32 49 44 21 53 7 20 32 49 41 53 15 3 32 49 54 53 37 43 32 49 47 G 53 50 40 34 49 51 45 53 58 34 49 39 30 53 55 33, 34 49 35 30 54 40 13 33 49 44 20 54 11 36 34 ■els' 'i V- ;f POSITIONS OF PLACES. XI )F THE Points Pages QND. Hrackets, P.U JKS. h), 40 lo, 19 20 21, 22 21 20 24 24, 25 24 25 25 26 20 2(5 2(J 28, 20 30 30 30 31 31 31, 32 32 32 32 32 JO 33 52 n i 52 J2 14 4 3, 34 3 4 Change Isles; N.E. islet Bacalieu Isle ; centre • • - • ••••* Bay or Notre Dame. Toulingnet Harbour; Northern entrance Morton Harbour ; entrance Fortune Harbour; N.W. point Triton Harbour ; entrance Cutwell Harbour ; East point Nipper's Isles ; S.E. point Bisliop's Rock St. John's Gull Isle Promontory of St. John [(>] South Bill Middle Cape North Bill La Scie Harbour ; entrance Pacquet Harbour ; entrance St. Barbe, or Horse Isles ; S.E. point Fleur-de-Lis Harbour; East point Partridfje Point Coney Ann Head ■ Cat Head ; extremity . Little Harbour Deep Head • Orang-e Bay ; entrance • Fourche Harliour ; entrance ■ Hooping or Siuis-Fond Harbour; entrance •■ Canada or Canaiy Bay ; entrance • Rouge Isle ; North point Southern Belle Isle ; N.E. point • Groais or Groix Isle ; N.E. point Croc or Croque 1 1 arbour ; entrancj Fishot Isles ; Northern isle ■ IIow Harbour; entn.nce, W. point Goose Cape ; S.E. point • Cricmaillere Harbour; entrance, E. point Cape St. Anthony ■ Brbhat or Braha Shoal {6 feci) Needles' Rocks, near Braha ■ White Cape, near St. Lunaire Griguet Bay ; East point Cape Bauld Cape Norman [7] LATITUDE N. LONGITUDE W. The SE. Coast of Newfoundland, from St John's Harbour to Cape Rack, and Southern Coasts, thence to Cape Ray. St. John's ; South Head, Li(/ht F. Cape Spear ; Liaht rev. 275 fl. one m, Bull Head '- Cape Broyle ; North point • Cape Baliard Cape Race ., Southern Coast. Cape Pine [8] Cape St. Mary Placentia Harbour 4:) 41- 49 41 49 49 49 49 49 49 49 49 49 49 49 50 50 50 49 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 51 51 51 51 51 51 51 51 51 51 51 51 47 47 47 47 A^^ 46 46 46 47 32 33 37 47 31 .36 37 49 15 35 50 49 36 55 30 59 30 56 5 57 30 59 30 58 58 30 11 6 40 9 20 57 30 7 14 42 30 54 48 58 30 2 25 12 .30 20 17 20 18 .30 21 25 40 26 5 30 25 32 30 3S 15 37 10 34 2 30 53 18 1 3 52 46 46 39 44 14 25 11 54 18 54 28 48 54 41 30 55 55 10 31 34 55 46 55 21 55 16 56 56 56 56 2 3 52 36 52 33 30 55 23 30 55 22 55 55 25 55 31 55 45 18 55 36 40 10 30 56 40 56 .34 30 5(> 27 56 21 11 7 2 40 65 42 55 22 30 55 27 55 41 32 55 34 30 55 51 55 31 55 30 30 55 25 15 55 20 55 22 45 55 21 33 55 21 30 55 20 33 55 47 48 56 27 19 52 41 52 47 27 52 53 23 52 59 10 53 30 2 54 8 45 53 .55 10 pages. 34 34 34, 35 35 35 35 35 35 35 36 36 36 36 36 36, 37 .37 37 38 39 39 39 40 40 40 40 41 42 42 42, 43 44 45 45 46 46 4() 46 47 47 48 49, 78 15, 19 19, 49 49 49, 50 50 50 51 52 53, 54 xn POSITIONS OF PLACES. Little South Harbour Extremity of Placentia Bay Bordeaux Harbour (Ex.) Cape Chapeaurouge St. Pierre ; Harbour Light F. [9] ■ Cape Miquelon Connaigre Shoal • Pass Island Cape La Hune Outer Penguin Island Eclipse Island (Burgeo Ids.) [10] • Cape Ray; S.W. extremity [H]' '•«••« Western and N.W. Coasts of New- foundland. Cod Roy Isle ; South side Cape St. George Red Isle ; S.W. point South Head of the Bay of Islands [12] Cow Head • Port Saunders ; entrance, N.E. point • « Point Rich ; W. extremity Point Ferolle ; Cove Point, N.E. extr, • ■ Anchor Point Green Islet ; N.E. extremity Cape Norman COAST OF LABRADOR, commencing with THE East. Cape St. Lewis ; S.E. point [13] St. Charles Island Belle Isle ; N.E. point {magnetic) S.W. point Battle Isles ; N.E. extremity • ■ Henley Island ; middle of N. side ■ York Point ; eastern extremity Red Bay ; Harbour Isle Loup Bay ; the head of • . • ■ Forteau Point ; extremity ■ Bradore Hills; Notre Dame (1264 feet high)- South Hill (1135 feet) Greenly Island ; N.E. point Bradore Harbour ; flagstaif Point Belles Amours ; S.E. extremity Lion Isle ; Isthmus Mistanoque Isle Dead Cove ; south point • Great Mecattina Point ; S.E. extremity Hare Harbour ; E. side Antrobus Point ; N. side of isle Wapitagun Harbour ; E, point of an islet • • • Cape Whittle ; S.W. extremity of an isle Coacoacho Bay ; outer islet Kegashka Bay ; islet Natashquan River ; entrance, S. point Little Natashquan Harbour, head of Nabesippi River ; First granitic point Watcheeshoo Peninsula ; summit LATITUDE N. O / II 47 43 32 47 49 46 47 45 28 46 54 19 46 A{\ 52 47 8 11 47 23 57 47 29 2 47 31 55 47 22 10 47 36 6 47 36 56 47 52 38 LONGITUDE W. 48 48 49 49 50 50 51 51 51 51 52 60. t2 51 52 52 51 51 51 51 51 51 51 51 51 51 51 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 28 54 33 58 6 12 55 12 .38 36 41 47 2 22 14 30 24 18 37 10 21 24 12 48 1 16 54 15 44 8 58 1 43 55 31 35 25 37 35 11 u4 2 23 19 27 38 26 42 94 9 15 51 46 52 44 10 36 32 33 20 11 48 \0 44 9 12 11 27 7 5 11 49 14 16 26 O I II 53 54 38 53 57 14 52 58 30 55 20 31 56 8 44 56 19 30 55 57 56 11 56 50 23 56 58 7 57 36 59 17 55 55 55 55 55 55 55 56 56 57 57 57 57 57 57 58 58 58 59 59 60 60 61 61 61 62 62 19 13 15 10 59 23 45 59 14 34 59 16 13 58 23 40 57 51 16 57 17 57 57 24 14 57 2 38 56 45 30 56 36 46 55 47 48 38 23 34 32 16 4 26 3 32 19 50 30 52 51 25 24 49 50 56 25 11 50 11 32 10 34 14 6 24 44 38 21 12 7 59 5 59 55 17 7 16 31 1 5 6 46 17 55 15 21 47 43 50 17 15 49 41 3 PAGES. 56 56, 57 56 59 60 61 61 64 ()6 67 70, 71 72 72 72 73, 74 75 75 75, 76 76 77 77, 78 49, 78 79 80 79 79 80 81 81 81, 82 82 82 93 93 92 92 93 94 95 96 96 97 97 98 99 99 100 101 101 101 101 POSITIONS OF PLACES. XKI PAGES. 56 56, 57 56 59 60 61 61 64 66 ()6 67 70, 71 •' 72 72 72 f' 73, 74 75 i'- 75 75, 76 76 77 77, 78 49, 78 :4 \ 4 79 h 80 79 79 80 ■'■; 81 '-"'' 81 81, 82 82 82 93 93 K 92 92 93 E)4 )5 'vi )6 )6 )7 )7 )8 >9 '9 00 01 01 01 01 Appeeletat Bay ; east point Betcliewiin Harbour ; low isle Clearwater Point ; S.W. exf-emity Miiiffan Harbour ; Sandy Point Minjj^an Island ; summit River St. John ; S.E. point Manitou Point ; extremity Point St. Charles ; S. extremity Moisic River ; S.W. point Cartusel Island ; Southern extremity Sever Islands' Bay ; storehouse on E. side • • • Point St. Margaret ; extremity Cawee Islands; Little Isle, W. point Egg Islands ; North I. West point Trinity Bay ; S.W. point Point de Monts; Lighthouse {fixed It. at \00 ft.) Cape de Monts ; southern extremity BRETON ISLAND, the Magdalen Isles, and Anticosti. Louisbourg Lighthouse ; Light F. Scatari Island ; Lighthouse ; Lir/ht rev. at 90 ft. Flat Point, Sydney Harbour; iJffht F. at 160 ft. Cape North on Breton Island Island of St. Paul; northern extremity [14] • {Two Liyhts ; N. fixed, S. revolving, at 140 ft.) Magdalen Islands [15]. Entry Isle ; East point Deadman Islet ; West point Amherst Harbour ; entrance, N. side of Coffin's Island ; N.E. point ^ Northern Bird Islet ; centre Bryon Islet ; East point ANTICOSTI. West Point ; S.W. extremity Cape Hrnry ; S. extremity S.W. Point; Lighthouse; Light rev. at 100 ft. 1 m. South Point East Cape ; Light near it, F. at \00 ft. Bear Bay ; entrance of the river Observation Bay ; West side North Point RIVER of ST. LAWRENCE : N. Shore. Point de Monts ; S. extremity, as above Godbout River ; trading post St. Nicolas Harbour ; Cross Point St. Nicolas Point ; southern extremity St. Giles Point; extremity Manicougan Point ; S.E. extremity Bersimis Point; Southern extremity Jeremie ; trading post Port Neuf ; church Tadousac, at the Saguenay River Chicoutirai, on the Saguenay ; trading post- • • • Coudres Island ; West point of La Prairie Ba\ latitude n. longitude w PAGES. O / a o / ff 50 16 43 62 58 7 102 50 14 21 <53 10 30 103 50 12 35 63 27 4 103 .50 17 32 64 1 5() 105 50 12 56 64 7 31 104 50 17 11 (54 20 16 106 50 17 42 65 14 9 106 50 15 25 65 48 50 106 50 11 24 60 4 41 107 50 5 29 66 23 35 107 .50 13 7 66 24 7 107 50 2 33 66 44 45 108 49 49 29 67 1 57 108 49 38 21 67 10 10 108 49 23 47 61 18 12 109 49 19 23 67 22 2 109 49 18 49 67 23 22 109 45 54 30 59 55 30 158 46 1 30 59 40 158 46 18 15 60 8 30 157 47 3 60 20 20 155 47 14 60 8 17 86, 87 47 17 61 40 30 88 47 16 8 62 12 20 88 47 14 28 61 49 21 87 47 37 30 61 23 88, 89 47 51 2 61 9 11 89 47 47 58 61 24 33 89 49 52 20 64 32 8 90 49 47 50 64 22 44 90 49 23 53 63 35 47 91 49 3 43 62 15 30 91 49 8 25 61 39 59 90 49 30 30 62 24 29 90 49 38 69 62 41 24 90 49 57 40 64 9 90 49 18 49 67 23 22 109, 111 49 18 33 67 36 9 111 49 18 14 67 46 42 HI 49 15 55 67 50 10 111 49 12 34 68 9 3 111 49 6 13 68 12 1 112 48 54 5 68 38 35 112 48 52 53 68 46 52 112 48 37 25 69 6 112 48 8 40 69 46 1 113 48 26 13 71 5 1 113 47 24 48 70 25 2 119 XIV POSITIONS OF PLACES. i , I i QUEBEC ; North bastion [16] Montreal ; Cathedral South Shoiie of the St. Lawrence. Cape Rosier ; extremity • (Jreat Fox Bay ; centre • • Mont Louis River ; entrance, E. jwint Cape Chatte ; extremity Malanc River; entrance, inner S.W. point • • Reef off Little Metis Mount Camille ; summit, 2036 feet Barnaby Island ; N.E. point Bic Island, S.E. reef ; N.E. extremity Ra/ade Rocks ; N.E. rock Green Island ; Lif?hthouse ; Li(//it F. at 70 feet Loup River ; N. point of entrance Brandy Pots ; S. point of South Rock ....... Kamouraska ; N.E. j)oint of Crow Island • • • • Crane Island ; a station on the beach Dauphin Island (Orleans I.) ; S."W. point • • • • NEW BRUNSWICK, &c., Eastern Coast. Cape Rosier, (as above) ; extremity Cape Gaspe ; Flower-pot Rock Gaspe Basin ; Sandy point Douglas, the tow n ; South side " • » Bonaventure Isle ; N.W. point • » • • • Cape Despair Point Paspebiac ; southern extremity Point Miscou • Point Escuminao ; high water mark Richibucto ; entrance Cape Tormentin ; N.E. point Pictou Isle Pictou Harbour; entrance, Light F. at 65//. •• Cape St. George Gut of Canso, Lighthouse at N. end, Liyht F. at lib ft. PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. East Point North Cape • • • • Cape Traverse • Charlotte Town ; church Bear Cape • # . BRETON ISLAND, &c. Cape North (See page xiii) Siboux Isles, at the entrance of St Anne's Bay Sydney Harbour Lighthouse (See page xiii) • • • • Tow n of Sydney ; Barracks Scatari Isle ; Lighthouse (See page xiii) Louisbourg; Lighthouse (See page xiii) Albion Cliff, on the South side of Isle Madame Eddy Point ; entrance of the Gut of Canso. • • • Bear Head ; the islet Ship Harbour, in the Gut of Canso latitude n. o / 46 49 48 49 49 49 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 47 47 47 47 46 51 14 6 51 41 28 29 25 12 3 51 52 35 4 58 48 51 48 45 48 49 48 46 48 29 48 25 48 48 I 47 5 46 40 46 7 45 47 45 41 45 51 8 45 30 34 45 5 37 43 18 44 43 17 35 25 5 36 17 30 12 57 37 4 38 52 44 22 45 43 LONGITUDE W. PAGES. 71 13 73 31 47 64 1 1 48 64 22 52 65 43 35 66 45 19 67 31 29 68 1 39 68 12 55 68 32 2 68 48 30 69 8 9 69 25 14 69 33 49 69 40 47 69 52 48 70 31 22 70 50 54 45 64 10 64 53 I 64 24 I 64 30 64 30 64 Go 64 64 64 63 62 62 6\ 61 29 11 48 9 22 28 41 21 53 9 21 18 32 1 46 31 40 38 33 37 37 43 33 25 38 10 51 12 123 123 )09 110 110 110 113 114 114 114 115 115 115 117 117 118 120 123 109 1.39 140 139 141 142 142 143 144 144 144 146 146, 147 149 148 W 46 27 61 45 152 47 4 63 51 153 46 12 63 28' 152 46 14 62 56 152 45 59 62 16 152 47 3 60 20 20 155 46 24 20 60 27 30 156 46 18 15 60 8 30 157 46 9 m 15 30 154 46 1 30 59 40 158 45 54 30 59 55 30 158 45 28 12 61 2 158 45 30 30 61 15 20 150 45 32 20 61 17 30 150 45 36 24 61 21 25 149 POSITION'S OF PLACES. XV PAGES. 123 123 )09 110 110 110 113 114 114 114 115 115 115 117 117 118 120 123 109 139 140 139 141 142 142 143 144 144 144 146 146, 147 149 148 •I 152 153 n 152 n 152 152 ■ '} 155 ft 156 157 154 158 158 58 , 50 i 50 49 NOVA SCOTIA, &c., Soutiifrn Coasts. Sable Island j the N E. end (17) • > The SoiUheniinost part The West cu.l The Main Land Crow llarhdiir, in Cheihihiieto Bay; Rook Isle Fox Isle, ill Chedahucto Bay Craiiherry Ishiiul ; Li{;lithoiise,7'?ro/^5. v 'lica/,F. Ca])e Canseau, or Caiiso Causo Harbour; Northern entrance (18) Southern entrance • Point Gell, near Raspberry Harbour Wliitehead Island, oil' Whitehaven Berry Head, on the western side of Torbay • • • . Green Island, Country Harbour; South pijint- • Cape Mi)eodon)e,on the S.W. of Country Harbour ^A'hitc Point, on the W. side of Lisconib Harbour jNIarie et Joseph Cape SjH'y • Tanffier Island Jedore Head, on the W. side of Jedore Harbour Shut-in Island ; S.W. end HALrFAx; Citadel Hill (19) Sainl)ro' Lij-hthouse, Liijht F. at 197 /^ (20)- ■ Holderness Island, on the S.W. side of Mar- garet's Bay .... Green Island, off Mahone Bay Cross Island, off Lunenbur 51 (>7 5 30 1 m 39 (>(J 25 on 41 6r> 45 66 50 00 48 00 54 0(> 42 00 34 pages. I 66 49 00 57 07 23 67 30 07 40 07 57 OS 3 30 08 30 08 45 68 48 08 40 08 58 190 190 193 195 197 190 190 190 193 194 193 194 194 195 199 200 200 200 199 201 201 201 202 202 al si el Ll inl thl ha •pa ^ ri^ W( NOTES Referred to in the preceding Table ; showing the Authorities, with some Additional Remarks, including the Variations of the Compass. 1. St. John's. — The longitudes of the S.E. and south coasts of Newfoundland, as deduced from the Observations and Surveys of Capt. Jas. Cook, Lieut. M. Lane, Messrs. Cassini, Verdun, Borda, Pingre, and Owen, are generally from 8 to 3 minutes eastward of those given in the table : Fort Amherst, on which is the lighthouse at the entrance of St. John's Harbour (1' 40' east of St. John's Church) having been given as in lat. 47° 33' 30" N., long. 52° 29' W., or 4' 27" eastward of the assumed position. On the other hand. Fort Townsend (2 minutes west of Fort Amherst) according to the observations of Mr. J. Jones, master of H.M.S. Hussar, in 1828, is in lat. 47° 33' 42" N. and long. 52° 45' 29" W. or 6' 33" west of the given longitude. Amid these conflicting statements, it was thought safer to repeat the position as given in the Atlantic Memoir, 1840, page 41. The magnetic variation at Si. John's is about 27^ west. I V. PAGES. ino 190 193 19.3 197 I9<> 19« ) 190 193 194 193 194 194 195 199 200 200 200 199 201 201 201 202 202 PH SOME 3S. Bland, as \, Messrs. ^stward of |ce of St. 33' 30" ^^ hand, |f Mr. J. 29" W. thought nagnetio f NOTES. XVll %. 2. BACALtFU or lUcALAO IsLAND. — This island is interesting, as being probably the first land of North America discovered by Sebastian Cabot, vvhicii he did at ."» a. m. of the 24th June, 1497 (St. John's day), and named it " Prim.ivist.i.'' It was afterwards culled by the J'rencli " liaccalaos," a name applied to the whole of the island of Newfoundland ; and It was thus called, either from its being the resort of numberless Bacalieu birds, a species of mergus, which are preserved by the le'^islature as forming useful sea-marks, or else from the original Indian name of the cod-tisii, bacal.io. 3. Cape Bonavista. — The Admiralty surveyors, Messrs. George Ho'.brook and \Vm. Bullock, have placed this cape as represented in the table ; but smce that, this and the coast to the northward of it have been stated as being 8' 50" farther westward : we iiave retained the former position. The variation is 29° west. 4. Cape Freels. — In the valuable Survey of the coast northward of Cape Freels, by Lieutenant Fred. Bullock, 1823-4, this cape is placed 4' 10 " south of the same, as given in the survey southward, by Messrs. Ilolbrook and William Bullock, in 1817 : to connect this with the southern parts, we have given the latter authority. Variation 30° west, 5. FoGo Harbour is very secure, and has good anchorage. This, with other harbour."?, has been surveyed by Mr. Thotnas Smith, under the direction of Lieut. Bullock ; and the 'particular plan is the best guide to the harbour. Variation 31° west. 6. Cape St. John, — On the coasts to the northward of this cape, the French have the right of the fishery. The directions for this coast, given hereafter, are taken from the work of Captain Ch. Lavaud, of the French marine ; which gives ample instructions for the navigation between Cape Bonavista and Cape Norman. The variation is here about 31^ west. 7. Cape Norman is placed by Capt. Bayfield in lat. 51° 38' 5", and Ion. 55° 26' 21" W. or 8' 21" more to the west than in the table, which is the longitude assigned to it by Capt. Fred. Bullock. Captain Bayfield's position is probably dependent on that of Quebec; but in the Atlantic Memoir, 1840, p. 50, it is stated that the assumed longitude of (Quebec is perhaps 3 minutes west of the true position : and the longitude of St. John's, as stated above, as observed by Mr. J. Jones, and recorded in Fort Townsend, is about 6' 33" west of its situation, as taken by the Admiralty surveyors. These discrepancies, of Quebec being 3 minutes too far west, and St. John's 6' 33" too much to the east, would reduce the difference between these statements to about one minute ; but, until they are reconciled more satisfactorily, the previous statement is adhered to. The variation at Cape Norman is 34° 20' west. 8. Cape Pine, — It is stated by Sir R. Bonnycastle that it is the intention of the govern- ment to establish a lighthouse on this dangerous cape. The variation is about 26° 30' west. 9. St. Pierre, — A survey of Port St. Pierre, by Lieut, Dupetit Thouars, places the government house, N.E. of the town, in latitude 46« 46' 30'' N., and long. 56=* 9' 35" W. The French astronomers, Messrs. Verdun, Borda, and Pingre, in the voyage of La Flore, 1771, gave the town of St. Pierre in 46° 46' 30" N. and 56° 10' VV.; and in the charts of Captain Ch. F. Lavaud, 1836-8, this result is repeated : thus confirming the determination of the Burgeo Islands, by Capt. Cook, from a solar eclipse in August, 1766. {Phil. Trans. 1767.) The variation is 27° 18' west. 10. Eclipse Island. — See note on page 67. 11. Cape Ray.— Captain Bayfield places this cape in lat. 47° 36' 56', Ion. 59° 20' 10', or 3 minutes west of the position in the table. See note 16. Variation 24° west. 12. Bay of Islands. — The variation is about 28° west. 13. Cape St. Lewis was placed by Lieut. M. Lane, in 1790, in latitude 52° 25' 30', and long. 55° 20' W. This, and the whole of the north coast of the Strait of Belle Isle, have been excellently re-surveyed by Captain H. W. Bayfield, whose nautical directions have been followed in the ensuing work. The variation is about 35* west. 14. ST. PAUL'S ISLAND.— This island, situated in the entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, has been noted for the numerous wrecks upon its shores. It is rendered conspicuous by its two lighthouses, which will render the approach to it less dangerous and uncertain. Captain Bayfield says, •' Vessels bound to Canada, or any ports in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, should endeavour to make the Island of St. Paul, which, being of considerable elevation, and bold all round, may, with care and a good look-out, be made XVIU NOTKS. j ) I : I even in fogs, if they are not very thick." In the night, the lights will assure a vessel of her situation. Variation 'J3'-' 45' W. 15. THE IMAGDALKN I.SLANDS.— In the Atlantic Memoir, pac;e 49, aie the fol- lowing observations : — " Captain Hayfield ])!aces Cape Kay in longitude .'59'^ 20' 10", or three minutes west of that assigneil in tho table; and, in order to pre-crve the trlative positions of the Magdalen Islands, Ike, we are undt^r tho necessity of placing tliem three minutes to the east of that gciilleinan's positions. TiRrtfore, l)y adding these thioe iidnutes, we gam the exact longitude assigned by C/aj)iain B., and as likewise sliowii in the l)eaiilifiil chaitof the islands from the survey of IJcntenunt 1'. E, Collins, R.N., IdlJO." Variation 23° W. J6. QUEBEC. " The latitude of Quebec is 46° 47' 30" N., according to the observa- tions of M. le Marquis de Lotbiniire, M. lledaid, directory of the seminary of yt. Louis, and Captain Holland. M. Mechain computeil the longitude to be 71'-^ 10', by several eclipses of Jupiter's first satellite observed by Messrs. Lotbinifere and Holland, and the pa.ssage of Veims that Captain Holland observed in 1769. All these observations, made at different times, have given very coherent results." Vide American Trans. Vol. I. &c. The above passage, from "Analysis of a General Chart," &c., Paris, 1786, shows the position in which Quebec has hitherto been laid down on the charts ; and it agrees with that given in the Conn, des Terns. ]}ut Quebec has since been exhibited considerably more to the eastward. Mr. Smyth, in his map of Upper Canada, has it in 69" 52' : the error is here enormous. Mr. Wright, in his chart of 1807, 70° '27'. The liecjuisite Tables of 1802 give lat. 46° 48' 38", Ion. 71° 5' 29". Colonel Bouchette, in his work on Canada, 1815, gives 46° 48' 49". N. and 71° H' W. In the years 1819, 1820, and 1821, the officers of II. M.S. Newcastle, provided with four chronometers, made niany observations in the river; and these observations may be judged of by the longitude in which they placed Quebec for three successive yeais, assuming Halifax as in 63° 33' 40"; July 16th, 1819, 71° 12' 48'; June 19th, 18'20, 71° 13' 14"; July 5th, 1821, 71° 12' 25'. The greatest difference is 49", and the mean of the whole is one second farther west than the longitude given in 1819. From these data, we judge that the longitude of Quebec does not exceed that given in the table, which is 3 minutes less than that of Captain Bayfield. Variations of the Comi'ass in and about the St, Lawrence. It has been proved by numerous observations made by the American surveyors, Mes;TS. Jos. and B. i-dlicott, that the westerly variation, in 1800, ceased at or very near the river Niagara, on the south side cf Lake Ontario, or long. 79° W. See the particular plan of the Frontier of Niagara, given on die new map of Canada, &c., published by Mr. Laurie. The variation at Mon- treal was 7° 45' W. in 1834. In and about the same year the variations were as follow: at Contrecour, 8° 45': Lake St. Peter, 10°: Trois Uiviires, 11°: Qtebec, and Isle of Orleans, 15°: Isle aux Coudres, 16° : at Tadousac, on the mouth of the Saguenay, 17*^ : Off the Isle Bic, 18° 40' : Port Neuf, 18° 20' : at Father Point, 19° 45' : Point des Monts, 22° : Seven Isles, 20° 27' : West end of Anticosti, 24° 30' : East end 25° 30' : Mingan Island, 26° : Off Kegashka, 27° 45' : Little Mecattina, 30° 30' : Bradore Har- bour (Strait of Belle Isle), 34° 15' : Red Bay, 35° 30'. Off Cape de Monts, in the River St. Lawrence, there is a remarkable aberration of the compass, which renders it necessary to steer different courses according to the direction of the vessel's head : see note on p. 127-8. The variation at the east end of Prince Edward Island is 21° : Pictou Haiboui", 19°. In Sydney River, Breton Island, and at Cape Breton, 22° west, 17. Sable Island. — In the Colombian Navigator, vol. 1, page xviii. is given a note, which is repeated on page 165 of the present work. 'The latitude of Sable Island iippears to have been given as five miles too far north ; and the west end, according to M. des Barres, 15 minutes to the westward of that, as given by Mr. J. Jones, Master of II. M.S. Hussar, which is probably near the truth. This may have added to the leal dangers of this formidable place. It may be observed that the west end is given in the table in lat. 43° 57', and Ion. 60° 15', or 2' east of that of Mr. Jones, in 1829 ; but, as will be seen hereafter, in the copious description of Sable Island, the rapid reduction in its length will cause as much difference as this. It may be here repeated, that every precaution ought to be used on arriving near Sable Island. The variation, in 1837, was found to be 20° 22' W. 18. Canso or Canseau Harbour is the harbour or rather channel formed by George's, formerly Canso Island. M. de Chabert, in 1750, stated this harbour to be in longitude \f)I KS. XIX a vessel of nie tlie fol- ■20' to", or llie relative ; tlieni three lee iriiiiute.s, lie heautiful Variation the observa- f St. Louis, ', by several md, and the tions, made 'ill. I. &c. , shows tlie agrees with considerably ^^ 62' : the jisiie Tables on Canada, , the officers lions in tlie they placed 16th, 1819, riie greatest he longitude hat given in I proved by -llicott, that e south side of Niauara, on at i\]on- as follow: land Isle of enay, I?*' : Ponit des Id 25° 30' : lad ore Har- ition of the Idirection of Irbou.S 19°. len a note, [nd itppears lio M. des |of 11. M.S. jers of this ^t.43<»57', hereafter, 11 cause as Ito be used '' W. George's, longitude H. 46" 20' N. and 60° 56' W. The latitude here atjrees widi M, des Barres, and tlio lonpi- tude is only 3 minutes more to the east. Mr. Lock wood, on the contrary, makes the latitude 'I minutes more north, an'l the lon<;itude 2 minutes more west. 19. HALIFAX. In Mr. Rappr's valuable work, llu; longitude of Halifax is assumed a? a secondary meridian, in (ji'-' 37' 26" ; but, as this position cannot be considered as finally determiiif^d, we have repealed the longitude as given in the Atlantic Memoir, p. 55, and the Colombian Navigator, vol. i. p. 9 ; and, jiid'^iir^ from the coherency of former results, the lonoilude above is probably luarly 4 niinutis too far west. — See also the note on p. 171 hereafier. 20. SAMMUO' LIGIlTllOl'SR. «' In 1823, the officers of II.M.S. Nietmu, made the longitude of Sambro' li«lit 63"' 30' bV. In 1822 they had m;i(!e it in 63' 30" 0'. and it w;is subsefjuently gained by them as 63° 30' 8". {Mean 63° 30' 22".) M. des Barres gave it as 6.i° 31'. We, therefore, reject a statement of 63° 3.V K'l", lately published." — Co/. Nav. vol. i. p. 20. 21. Cape Sahle. (.'ape Sable and the points to the northeastward, were formerly given as represented by M. des Barres in 1776, whose longitude, as well as latitude, appeared to be r.ciirest to the truth; hiii it niiiy be observed, that M. de Chabert, the French astronomer, in 1750, gave the latitude of the (.ape, from his own observations, as only 43° 23' 45"; Mr. .Tones, in 1829, gave it as 43° 23' 57'; Mr. Lockwood, in 1818, gave it as 43° 27' 40" ; and a chart of the Bay of Fundy, dated 1st May, 1824, has it even so lii'di as 43° 28' 10 ". — See the next note. 22. Seal Island. M. des Barres places the southernmost point of Seal Island in latitude 43° 25' 25", and loiii^itude 66" (•' 35". Later charts have it in latitude 43° 26' 35". But, under the orders of Uear-Adniiral Sir (Jli.is. O^le, Mr. John Junes, of 11. M S. Hussar, in 1828, 18,'9, and 1830, made a series of observations upon the coasts of Nevvfoumllynd, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Ike, some of which have been before adverted to. By tliese observations he places the south point fif Seal island in latitude 43° 23' 51", longitude 65^^ 59' 42", or 3 miles more to the southward than the above; and Lieut. C/ius. Hare, R.N., made, in 1828, some observations, which places the latitude of the south point in 4y° 22' 23", or futir 7niles more to the sonlhicard. This result, which may thus be depended on, v\ill account for so many ships having been yearly cast away on coming out of the Bay of Fundy. On the supposition of these vessels being far enough to the southward to clear all danger, they may have bore away to the S.E., and thus have been lost. — See description and note on p. 183. VARIATIONS OF the COMPASS on the south coast of Nova Scotia.— In the year 1775 the vaiiations were given bv M. des Barres as follow: — North entrance of the Gut of Canso, 16° 0' W.; Crow Harbour, Chedabucto Bay, 14° 50' VV. ; entrance of Liscomb Harbour, 14°; Sable Island, 13° 57'; Halifax lighthouse, 13° 35'; entrance of Shel- burrie, 18° 30'; Cape Sable, 11° 15'. In 1798, Mr. Backhouse, of the navy, found the variation at Halifax to exceed 16 degrees. According to Colonel Bouthette, it was 17° 0' 10" at that place in 1830; at Sambro' lighthouse, in 1828, 16° 45°; and at Cape Sable, 14°; so that since 1775 it has increased nearly 3^ degrees; but whether it is still on the increase hereabout is questionable. 23. BRvrn's Island. — M. des Barres gives Bryer's Island as in latitude 44° 22' 5", and 66° 21' W.; hut we are constrained to follow up ihe correction of Grand Manan and Cape Sable, and thus give it more to the southward. Mr. Jones gives the latitude as 44° 13' 51". PoTNT Prim is also given by M. des Barres as in 44° 4."/ 30" N. (longiiade 65° 46' 30" W.,) four miles higher than the latitude given in the table. 24. CITY OF ST. JOHN.— M. des Barres gave the position of the Cape or Point Maspeck as 45° 18' 27", and 65° 57' 35" VV. It will be seen, by reference to the table, that it is now represented nearly 6 miles more to the south ; and this correction, of course, affects St. John's, and all the coast westward to Passamaquoddy Bay. The variation at St. John's is about 16* W. 25. Grand Manan Inland, &c. — Lieut. Charles Hare, in a voyage outward and homeward, in 1828, made observations for determining the latitude of the S.E. side of d «a« XX NOTES. i': Grand Manan Island, which, he concluded, must confirm, beyond all doubt, that the whole body of that part of the island must be brought southerly, iii order to be correct. Ai ihe time this information was received, we were doubtful of its accuracy, so far a§ these remarks affected (irnml Munan, not suspecting that the charts, then recently pub- lished by authority, could possihiy be incorrect. But Mr. .Innes, before alluded to, made Whitfhead h/e on the S.K. of Grand Manan, in latitude 44° 36' .^9", while in the chart it appears in 44° 41' 0", or 4 miles more to the northward, thus confirming the observations of Lieut llaie, who makes the difference here about five tniles. 26. IsLF.Bono', or Lono Island. — The position of this island was determined, in 1780, by Or. Williams, Dr. Winthrop, and other American astronomers, from a total eclipse of the sun, Sept. 27lh. ^E^^'FOUNDLAND. — On the chart of Newfoundland, &c. accompanyinvt this work, is shown all that is known of the interior of that singular country. It is piincipally derived from a map by Mr. .hike, the late g' olo^ical surveyor ol Newfoumlliirid, which is com- posed from the explorations of Mr. C'oiinack, in his nnsuccessful search for the aboriginal Red Indians, now probably extinct (182'i — 27); of Mr. Peyton and Cipt. Buchan on the River of Exploits; from his personal observations in the River llumber and the Grand Pond, &c. ; from the reports of the native Micmac Indians, and other sources. ( f ('.■ ht, that the correct. y, sn far as •ceiilly pub- f»nd Manan, more lo ihe [ference here ecJ, in 1780, 1 eclipse of this work, is lally derived it'll is coin- le aboriginal iclian on ihe 1 the Grand '':A 'J# f € THK PHAKONOLOGY, Oft DESCRIPTION OF THE L I (, II T- TOWE R S, AND OTHER REMARKABLE OUJECTS FOll DlSTlNCiUlSIIING HEADLANDS, 8fc. NEWFOUNDLAND, and GULF and RIVER of ST. LAWRENCE. CAPE SPI'AFl. — A lighthouse, exhibiting a powerful revolving lisht, at 275 feet above the level of the sea, which shows a brilliant flash at regular intervals of one minute; visible, in clear weather, at eight leagues ofl'. Page 19. ST. JOHN'S. — Upon Fort Amherst, on the South Head, at the entrance of the harbour, a brilliant and fixed light. See page 19. Here are, also, a small battery and signal-post. HARBOUR (iKACE.— On an islet, one of a clusler of rocks at the mouth of (he har- bour, a lij;hihous(', consistinj; of a square wooden house, with a square dove-cole lookmg top lor a lantern, containing an eflieclive and useful fixed liyht. The islet is accessible in moderati'ly smooth weather only, by ladders up the face of its landward cliff. Page 22. PORT ST. PIEIillE, on the island of that name. — A modern lighthouse, near the town, with fixed harbour light, from the 1st of May lo the loih of November, as described in page 60. SCATARI. — An octagonal light-tower, built of wood, on the N.E. extremity of Scatari, first lighted, with argand burners and reflectors, Dec. 1, 18:i9; painted white, with revolving light, about 90 feel above the sea; visible one minute, and invisible half a minute, alter- nately. A boat to render assistance to vessels in distress; and a gun to answer signals, when required. Page 1 j8. SYDNEY, BRETON ISLAND.— On Flat Point, upon the eastern side of the ertrance, an octagonal t(nver, of wood, 90 feel high, and painted vertically led and white. It exhibits a bril iant fixed li^ht at loO feel above the level of the sea; seen, in clear weather, at five leagues oft'. Page 157. ST. PAUL'S ISLAND, off" Cape Nokth.— Two lighthouses, octagonal, and built of wood ; one near its northern, and the other near its southern extremity ; fif wiiich one will always be open, unless to a vessel near the central rocks. The northern light is on a rock, separated from the main island by a passage 26 feet wide: it is painted white, and exhibits a fixfd dioptric ot refracted light, with concentiic lamps and four burners, at 140 feet above the sea. The SouTiiEnN Lighthouse is on the S.VV. extremity of the island. It exhibits a light similar to the northern one, but revolving, at the same lieight. I age 86. GUT OF CANSO. — A lighthouse, on the western sifle of the northern entrance of the Gut of Canso, was establislied in 1842, in latitude 46° 42', and longitude 01° 27'. The tower, painted white, stands at 120 yaids from the shore, and exhibits a fixed light at 115 feel above the level of the sea. It may be seen from the greater p.irl of the Bay of St. George and the shores of Breton Island, as far as Jestico or Poit Hood. There is good anchorage under the lighthouse, with the wind off the land. Page 149. PICTOU. — An octagonal lighthouse, built of wood, on the western side of the entrance. It is painted red and white, in vertical stripes, and exhibits a brilliant fixed light at 65 feet above the sea. Tiie light bearing W. i N. leads into the harbour. Page 146. LQUiSBOURG. — A lighthouse on the eastern side of the entrance to the harbour of Louisbourg, 60 fathoms in-shore, lat, 45" 54' 30', long. 59° 55' 30'. It stands on the site =.»■ XXII THK IMlAU()\()I.O(iV. I ; Ui !l: :i of tlic old French liKhtliouso, (which was siiccfpded hy a hencoii,) and shosvi a Hxed lisht, visililo at sea fiom ofl' ("ape I'ortbiid to the «*iuitlipasterri extromiiy of Ciipe Mn'toii. The li;;hllio(i'««!, (which is a .s(|iiai<' hiiil hiiu:,) is piiinlrd while, with vcrlir.il Mack slnpes on either siih>, in onltr to (ll^tillutlish it fniin oihtr lii;lillu)iis'.'!i, and to lender it conspicuous when the hac k hind is cov(>ied with sti, n circnhir stone tower, 75 feet hiffh. The hjiht. which is hriMianl. rcvoUcs oi'icj- in a inniute, and can l)e seen from N.N.W., Kind hy the we>t and sniiili, to S.K. hy K. Tiie huiiern is elevated 100 feet ahove hij^h afer, and the liuht may ho seen at five leamie;! off. Lighted from the 25th of March lo . 1. .. .1 f .1 _ II /> • ron w the last day of the year. I'a'^'e 91. On IIlaiii I'oiNr, iitur Uiv S. I'l. iwlrtini/i) iif' l/iii islmul, is another lii>hthouse, of the same form, dinierisioiis, ami colour as the ahove, and also huilt of ihe island limesione. The liljht hrii;hl and fixed, at l()0 feet ahov*; ihe sea, shows from W.N.VV. round by South lo N.K. hy N. Heath Point hcinir low, it disippcars helow the hoiizon at the distance of a few miles, and the lii;hthouse then appears like a sail off the island. I'age OU. POINT UE MONTS, on the north ."ide of the River of St. Lawrence, nearly opposite to Cape Cliatte, a tower with a tixed liyht, at ahout 100 feet above the level of the sea ; lyinjj S. b'l" VV. hoin the outer part of Caribou Point; over which, and to the eastward of it, the land may be seen. From the lii;hthouse the western extremity of Point de Monts bears S. 64° W. about one mile; and when a ship is to the westward of the point, the li<;hthouse will appear in one with the outermost rocks off the same. In (he day-time it forms a bold, distinct hinf-ht'nd, tlennle» All will om lionr.l. niiiin-iiiiixt liiud An- iliirt- nny vmitKh.' miiiiiKaH'. t'aii a Imat >r«'t oH'.' niiiiii u"itf. half lioi.tcd, H"'^* inaiiy jh rxoim on nhore '. nuiln ri);aii)jt Vt— il in (li-tri'->* loretiipiiiiM lu'aii Vi'hmI (•..miiiK tu llic i,l;uiil. fort' lipniiiK Alt' yiiii in w.inf «t'|irnviNi(»iii ? the ma«.i-liia(l in tlic i^l.in.l, TliiH a Iki.ii \m1I l)e uH'ininieiiiately. the in.i-t-lu'ad, irke|)l ll>in(r, All will on sliore the liH.^f ynrd-avni Ari- y(.n lomin^ to the island f th«» *«nie, lljlf lioisted, A l)oat cannot uct ofj". the Wfst varil-ar"i N"' '" «•'"* "f proviiiun. the samf hairhoi.>r<(| In want of provision. One ball or more, llaU yard-arm, Ten persons tor c'a( h ball. \Vest yaid .irni, One wrick or more. A flaur under o. ' tiall or more, We-t yard-arm,. . One or more of II..M. Ships. A pendant under one ball or more. West yard- arm, One uf II.M. packets. The Flaj; used on the Island is red, wliite, and blue, horizontally. A Union Jack, or any other Hag, is used by the vessel. Any of the above sii;nals, whrn made, should remain up ton or fifteen ruintitps, or until answered. A uun I'ued, partirularly in hazy weather, will draw the alteniinn of the iidiu- bitants. All other tiays must be kept down when makiii;; signals. {April, UXM .) \\V.\W,V. ISLAND, off the entrance of St. Mary's River, to the eastward of Halifax, is distiiimiislied by a beacon of wood, \Ww^ to 140 fet above; tlie sea, covered at the top, and painted white. It may be seen from G to 8 nulcs otf. I'age IG'2. DFAMIi ISLAND, on the eastern side of the entrance to Halifax Harbour, a beacon of wood, painted white, and 50 feet in heii^'hl. Fage ITii. SAMIUIO' ISL \ND, west of Halifax Harbour, an ocia>;nnal tower, 197 feet hiyh, with a brilliant fixed liuht. Attached is a small party of artillery, willi two 2-4.|)Ounders for signals, &c. Latitude 44° 20' 30", longitude 03'^ 32' 30*. Tagcs 171, 172. HALIFAX HARHOUR, — Slicrhtook Tower, on Maughei's Ileach, a circular tower, with a fixed light, at 58 feet above the level of the sea, as a lealing light for the harbour. Pages 171, 17'J, 173. LUNI'NHlIUCi. — Tpon the S. E. jioint of Cross Island, at the entrance rf Lunenburg Bay, lat. 44" 23', long, 1° ^>' 10", an octagonal lower, painted red, with two li'.ilits placed veiiically, and 30 feet apart. The lower light is fi\ed, and the u[)per so eclipsed as to show a flash at intervals of a minute, abruptly changing from dark to light. First lighted, Dec. 1, 1839. Ttie island is low and thickly wooded. See page 179. LI VFJIFOOL— A lighthouse, 90 feet high, on (Joftin's Is'and, at the entrance of Liver- pool Haibour; of octagon shape, painted led and white horizontally, and exhibiting a bril- liant light, revolving once in every two minutes. See page 180. CAPE ROSKWAY. — Shelburne Tower, on Cape Koseway, ofan octagon shape, painted black and white vertically, and exhibits, vertically, two brilliant fixed lights; the upper and larger being at 150 feet above the level of the sea, the lower light 36 feet below it. Page 181. CAPE SAHLE, Seat. Inland. — A lighthouse on the highest part of the Southern Seal Island, latitude about 4.'i° 24', longitude OS"" 58^'. It is ofan octagon shape, and 5 70 feet high, painted white, with a brilliant fixed light. This is the first liaht seen in approaching the Bay of Fundy. The very dangerous rock, called the hloiide, lies about two miles S.S.VV, (wngn.) from the lighlhoiise. Between the rock and island are some dangers : the ground is rocky throughout, and large vessels, there- fore, ought not to attempt passing between. Page 185. CAPE FOURCHU, on the western side of the entrance to Yarmouth, in lat. 43° 47i', long. 66° 10', a lighthouse, which, since the 15th of January, 1840, exhibits a brilliant re- volving light, visible one minute and a quarter, and invisible half a minute. The building is painted red and white, vertically, and is elevated 145 feet above the level of the sea. J XXIV THE PHARONOLOGY. • ■ -I •«• In a valuable communication which we have received from Mr. \Vm. Reynolds, of tlie city of St. John, New Brunswick, dated 24th October, 1841, this gentleman says, " Several shipmasters, who have passed the Cape Fourchu light, bound in, have described it as one of the best lights on this coast ; indeed there is no part of the public service that has been better attended to than the light- houses, their lanterns, lamps, and reflectors; and. as far as lighting with oil is concerned, will vie in b illiancy with those of any similar apparatus in any part of the world The lanterns, improved 1 iiiips, and reflectors, are highly creditable to the artisans who made them, (at St. John's,) and the laudable exertions and perseverance of the lighthouse commissioners are beyond all praise." Note. — All the British lighthouses in the Bay of Fundy are of wood ; and, with the exception of that on Partridge Island, have all been established since 1828. The shape of each, that of Cape Enrage excepted, is octag(mal; the last mentioned is square. The lanterns are of iron, with large plate glass, and the lamps argand, with reflectors. The diameters of the towers, at the base, are from 25 to 35 feet, tapering upward to the lanterns. BUYER'S ISLAND ; Latitude 44° 14^'.— A lighthouse, painted white, with brilliant Jixfd light, (in lieu of the old and di<;graceful lighthouse,) elevated 90 feet above the level of the sea, and about half a mile N.E. from the N.W. point of the island. Page 186. ANNAPOLIS.— A lighthouse on Point Prim, on the western side of the entrance, with Jixed light, at 76 feet above the sea. The coast hereabout is very bold, and not indented ; the light is therefore intended chiefly as a guide into Digby Basin. Renovated, with reflectors, &,c., in 1835. Page 188. CAPE ENRAGEE, on tiie north side of CniGNEcxo Bay. — A square lighthouse, exhi- biting a brilliant fixed light. The house is painted white, and is elevated about 120 feet above high water. QUAKO HEAD, on the north side of the Bay of Fundy. — A lighthouse on a small rock near this head, with a brilliant revolving light, established in 1835. Light full and dark twice in a minute. The lighthouse is painted white and red, in horizontal stripes. Page 189. ST. JOHN'S HARBOUR.— A lighthouse on Partridge Island, exhibiting a brilliant Jlxed light, at 110 feet above the level of the sea, and having a bell, which is tolled in thick weather. Tiie lighthouse is painted red and white, in vertical stripes. Page 190. Beacon Light. — Within Partridge Island, and upon a spit or bar which extends about half a mile S.S.E. off" Sand Point, and which dries at two-thirds ebb, stands a beacon tower. This lower shows a fixed light, which is eminently useful to the coasting trade of St. John, and to all other vessels having pilots on board, as it enables them to enter the harbour at all hours of the night. The house is painted white and black, in stripes vertically. The light is about 35 feet from high-water mark. For the Signals displayed on the approach of vessels to the harbour, see page 192. POINT LEPREAU, on the north side of the Bay of Fundy. — A lighthouse, erected in 1831, exhibits two brdliunt fixed lights, vertically, one being '28 feet below the other: the lower lantern is attached to the outside of the building, as shown in piige 195. Both lights can be seen from every point of the compass, where they may be useful. In consequence of orders from the home government, this light was, in 18^0, painted red and while, in stripes of five feet broad each, horizontally, in order that it may be seen more distinctly at a distance. The height from the level of high water to the lower light is 25 feet. HEAD HARBOUR, Passamaquoddy Bay {United States).— \ brilliant fixed light on the N.E. extremity of Porto Bello. as a guide to vessels entering the main channel to West Isles, Moose Island, and the inner bay of Passamaquoddy, and enabling vessels at all times to enter Head Harbour. The light is elevated about 60 feet from high-water mark. The building is painted white, with a red cross upon it. Page 196. QUODDY IIE.'\D, opposite to the north end of Grand ^Nlanan, on the west. — A light- house, with brilliant fixed light, at 90 feet above the sea, and which may be seen at seven leagues off". An alarm bell, near the lighthouse, strikes ten times in a minute, and may be heard, in calm weather, five miles off. Page 196. GANNET ROCK, to the southward of Grand Manan.— -A lighthouse with a brilliant jftashiiig, formerly a fixed red light, as described in page 194. This light is intended to wnrn vessels of their approach to the dangerous range of shoals and ledges, extending from the Old Proprietor to the Seal Isles off" iMachias, a distance of about 20 miles. The bril- liant flash appears for 40 seconds, and is succeeded by 20 seconds of darkness. Tlie light- house is painted in stripes, vertically, black and white. I THE PHARONOLOGY. XXV of the city of shipmusters, lights on this lan the light- ed, will vie in ns, improved n's,) and the lise." ; exception of that of Cape n, with large the base, are /ith brilliant )ve the level ige 186. I trance, with ;nded chiefly ;e 188. thouse, exhi- lout 120 feet e on a small ght full and ;ntal stripes. g a brilliant tiled in thick 190. [tends about eacon tower, of St. John, e harbour at ically. The ige 192. , erected in other: the Both lights joiisequence [U white., in jdistinctly at t. Iced light on Inel to West at all times lark. The f% Between the northernmost and southernmost of the Murr Ledges, (see note*, page 194,) there is a range of dangerous rocks and shoals, many of them always above water, and which extend westward from the lighthouse about four miles ; from this range, farther west- erly, about eight miles, lies a dangerous breaker, called the lionrinp Hull. This may be avoided, by keeping three remarkable headlands near the S.W. end of Grand Manan open. MACULES' SEAL ISLES.— On the southernmost isle are two lighthouses, established in 1832. The distance apart is 200 feet, and they exhibit brilliant fixed lights, horizontally, at about 45 teet above high water. In a line they bear VV.N.VV. and K.S.E. Page 195. Vessels standing to the northward, between these lights and the Gannet Rock, should tack or haul off" the moment they bring these lights in one, as tliey will not then be more than three-fourths of a mile from the Murr Ledges, if more than five iriiles to the east of the lights. MOUNT DESERT ROCK.— Lighthouse, with a conspicuous fixed light, appearing red, at .iG feet above the sea. Latitude 43^ 52', longitude 68"^ 3', which may be safely assumed as a point of departure. Page 199. LIBIJEE or Libby Isles, near Machias' Bay. — On the southernmost a lighthouse, with Jirid light, in latitude about 44'^ 35', and 60 fet-t above the level of the sea. Page 199. MOOSEPECK HEAD.— Lighthouse on Mistake Isle, three leagues S.W. -\ W. from that of the Libbee Isles. It exhibits a revolving light at 54 feet above the sea, which is eclipsed twice in every four minutes. A' six leagues off, the duration of light and dark appears nearly equal ; but, on approaching, the time of darkness will diminish, and that of liglit increase. See page 200. LITTLE MANAN.— A lighthouse of stone, with brilliant fixed light, at 53 feet above the level of the sea, and 4^ miles S.E. | S. from the entrance of the Port of Gouldsboro', and five leagues to the southweslward of Moosepeck light. Lat. 44° 24', long. 67° 46'. Page 200. CRANBERRY ISLANDS.— A lighthouse on Baker's hland, the outermost of the Cranberry Isles, with brilliant fixed light, at 70 feet above the sea, bearing from that on the Little Manan W.S.W. five leagues. Lat. 44° 15', long. 68° 6'. Page 201. WHITE HEAD, on the western side of the mouth of the Penobscot. Lat 430 58', long. 69° 1'. — Lighthouse, with brilliant fixed light, at 58 feet above the level of the sea' with that on Mount Desert Rock bearing E.S.E. 13 leagues. Page 201. METINICUS.— On the outer Wooden-ball Rock, two lantern lights, one at each end of a dwelling-house, 82 feet above the sea, and which, when in one, bear N.N.W. Lat 43° 8' long. 68° 45. Page 201. " ' ' OWL'S HEAD, on the western side of the Penobscot. — Lighthouse, with brilliant fixed lights, at 150 feet above the level of the sea, the fairway course to which is N.W. by N. It stands at seven miles above White Head. Page 201. PENOBSCOT Harbour Lights.— One on Brown's Head, the western side of the Fox Island Passage, with fixed light at 80 feet above high water. Another on Dice's Island upon the eastern side of the river, at the entrance of Castine Harbour, with fixed lieht at 116 feet. Page 202. * ^ \* For a continuation of the Lights on the coasts of the United States, the reader is referred to the first volume of the *' Colombian Navigator," which contains a description of and sailing directions for, all the coast westward of the Fenobscot, ^c. .—A light- |en at seven ind may be '.^ a brilliant lintended to [tiding from The bril- The light- ADVERTISEMENT. SAILING DIRECTORIES, &c. 1843. The following Memoirs and Directouies, the productions of the late Mr. JoiJN PuRDY, were proposed by him to form a complete series, and to be bound in volumes as described. The dates of the last editions are subjoined' These now comprise the navig^ation of all the coasts from the Arctic Seas to Cape Horn, the Cape of Good Hope, and ihe Southern Coast of Africa; including- the Cattegat, Baltic, Mediterranean, Euxine, and other inland i!i seas. Von'ME I. — 1. INTemoir, Descriptive and Kxplanatory, to accompany tlie General Cliart of the NoKTHicRN OcKAN, Davis' t'trait, and Baffin's Bay; mcliidin;^ (lie Navigation from Great Britain and Ireland to Spilzbergen and tlie W hite Sea, inclusive, 1830. 2. Sailing Directory for tlie North Se,i, including tlie Kastern Co^ists of Enghmd, Scotland, ivc, 7tl) Kdition, 1842, 3. Sailin-j Directory for tlie Cailegat, Sound, and Belts, 1843. 4. For the Baltic, 1839. 5. Gulf of Finland, 1843. Volume II. — 1. — Sailino Directory for the Enf];lish Channel, 9lh edition, 1842. 2. For St. George's Channel and all the Coasts of lieland, 4th edition, 1842. Volume III.— 1. Sailing Directory for the Bay of Biscay, 1839. 2. For Spain and Portugal, 1839. 3. For the Strait of CJibraltar and Western Division of the Mediterrnnean Sea, with Additions, 18-10. 4. For the (nilf of Venice and Fastern or Levantine division of the Riediteiranean Sea, together with the sea of Marmara and the Euxine or Black Sea; 1834. Additions as above. Volume IV. — Memoir, Descriptive and Explanatory, (o accompany the Charts of the Atlantic Ocean, and comprising Instriictions, General and Particular, for the Navigation of that Sea, with an Appendix, &c. blh ednion, ld40. Volume V. — 1. The British Ameiiican Navigator, or Sailing Directory for New- foundland, the Gulf and Kiver of St. Lawrence, Nova Scotia, &c. 1843. 2. The Colombian Navigator, or Sailing Directory for the American Coasts and the West Indies: Vol. i. Nova Scotia to Florida and Mexican Sea, inclusive; Vol. li. The Great Autillas, Wind- ward Passages, and Navigation of the Gulf Stream, 1839. Volume VL — The Colombian Navigator, Volume the third: for the Caribbee Isles, Guyana, Colombia, Mosquitia, the Bay and Gulf of Honduras, &c., 1839. Volume VIL — The New Sailing Directory for the Ethiopic or Southern Atlantic Ocean ; comprehending the Coasts of Brazil, &c., from Maranliam to Cape Horn ; the Coasts of Guinea, &c. from Sierra Leone to and beyond the Cape of Good Hope, and including the islands between the two Coasts. 1837. ^ NEWFOUNDLAND, &c. »f the late , and to be subjoined' ic Seas to of Africa ; ther inland leneral Cliart I'igation fiom . 2. Sailitig cotland, ivc, 343. 4. For 342. 2. For ir Spain and ecliterrHnean tine division r iilack Sea; ;'harts of the »avigaiion of |ry for New- CoLOMBIAN les : Vol. i. [illas, Wind- Iribbee Isles, lern Atlantic Horn ; the Hope, and if *^* TnnoucnouT this Work, the given Longitude is the Longitude i-rom CiRien- WKH. Tnr. Br.ARiNGs and Courses are those wy Compass, in less where otherwise expressed: l]t;T those given thus [E.N.E.] signiiy the true; AND THE GIVEN DIRECTION OF \\'lNn, TiDE, AND CURRENT, IS TO BE CONSIDERED AS THE TRUE. ThE GIVEN DEPTHS ARE THOSE AT LOW WATER, SPUING TIDE. Variations of the Compass. — The Magnetic Variation in the Environs of St. John's is from 26 to 27 degrees West : in Bonavisla Bay, from 28 to 20 dep:rees. In the years 1833-4, near Cape Ray it was 24 degrees West: at the Isle of St. Paul, 23° 45' : Magdalen Islands, 23=: Eastern point of Prince Edward Island, 21° : Pictou Harbour, 19°: Sydney Harbour, Breton Island, and Cape Breton, 22°. Const of Labrador.— Wr^dore Harbour, 34° 15' W. : Red Bay, 35° 30' : Little Meca- tina,30°3O': off Kegashka, 27° 45' : Mingan Island, 26° : Eastend of Anticosti,25° 30' : West end of the same, 24° 30'. River St. Lawrence.— S>cvcn Isles, 1>4° : Cape de Monts, 22° : Father Point, 19° 15' : PortNeuf, 18° 20': off the Isle Bic, 18° 40': at Tadousac, on the mouth of the Saguenay, 17°: Isle aux Coudres, 16°: Quebec and Isle of Orleans, 15°: Trois Rivieres, 11°: Lake St. Peter, 10° : Contrecour, 8"' 45' : Montreal, 7° 45'. Nova Scotia, Sec. — At Halifax it is 17.J degrees ^V. : off Mahone Bay, 17 degrees: near Liverpool Bay, 16 degrees: Cape Sable, Seal Isles, 14 degrees: at St. John's, New Brunswick, 16 degrees; and Penobscot Bay, 12 degrees, W. I I._Of the winds, currents, ICES, and PASSAGES TO NEWFOUNDLAND, NOVA SCOTIA, and NEW BRUNSWICK, &c. 1. or THIS WINDS. — Th5 Variable Winds which prevail over all the refi;ions liereafter described, are too generally known and understood to require a particular descrip- tion. The superficial currents are actuated accordingly, and they vary with winds which may probably be prevalent at a remote distance, and produce that swell of the ocean by which they are commonly preceded. We have heretofore had occasion to notice that, to the southward of Newfoundland shifts of wind are very common ; and it has frequently happened that, after blowing a gale upon one point of the compass the wind suddenly shifts to the opposite point, and blows equally strong. It has been known that, while one vessel has been lying-to, in a heavy gale of wind, another, not more than 30 leagues distant, has at the very same time, been in another gale, equally heavy, and lying-to, with the wind in quite an opposite direction. This, upon Mr. Redfield's theory, is to be understood as applicable to two vessels falling under the two opposite sides or portions of the same storm. In the year 1782, at the time the Ville de Paris, Centaur, Ilamillies, and several other ships of war, either foundered, or were rendered unserviceable, on or near the Banks, to- gether with a whole fleet of West-Indiamen, (excepting five or six,) they were all lying-to, with a hurricane from E.S.E. ; the wind shifted in suddenly to N.N.W., and blew equally heavy, and every ship lying-to, under a square course, foundered. The winds within the Gulf of St. Lawrence are not so liable to sudden shifts as on the outside, or to the eastward, of Breton Island. The weather to the southward of the Magdaleii Islands, between them and Prince Edward Island, is generally much clearer than on the North. Meeting or the two SrAS.-7-Tlie brig Hecoveuy, Captain T. Hamlin, on her return B If s GENERAL REM AUKS AN'D DIRECTIONS. I'ii I'm !;. 1'-' ' from New Orleans toward Greenock, 21st April, 1822, was proceeding K.N.E. on tlio parallel of 40° toward llie Grand Hank. In the first part of the twenty-four hours the weather was moderate, a breeze sprung up at west, and the vessel made all sail. In the middle part strong gales succeeded, still at west, and sail was reduced. At one a. m. black and gloomy, with rain. At ,'), a strong gale fiom the eastward took the ship aback, and drove lier astern against the o!d sea : it struck the boat, and broke the larboard davit, and a new sea rising with the shift of wind, tlie two seas met in dreadful confusion. With a scend forward the brig dipped the jib-boom under, and broke it otf in the cap ; and, with the scend aft again, stove in the cabin-window. While all hands were employed, trying to secure the boat, repeated seas struck her, and at length raised her above the stern, and unshipt the other davit. They then held on the tackle-fall that was fast to her, and dropped her astern, with the iiope that a favourable opportunity might occur for taking her in, but she filled and broke adrift. From 5 to 8 the wind continued to blow a gale; sometimes at East, then at West, and back again repeatedly ; while the vessel was quite unmanage- able, and lying exposed to the contending elements. At 8 «. m. the easterly wind prevailed, and the vessel was then laid-to under close-reefed main topsail, &c. Lat. at noon, by ace. 40° 2.^', long. 53'^ 0'. Atone, />.///. of the '22d it became calm: the vessel then drifted with the sea, going round and round : but on the next day the wind was fair at S.VV. and the brig proceeded eastward. At one, ft. m. on the 23d, a sensible change in the atmosphere find sea was experienced : from which it was concluded that the Recovery had entered on the Grand Bank. At day-light the colour of the water was found to be altered, and a numerous quantity of ice- birds and niurrs were upon it. On the 31st of October and 1st of November, 1822, the llecovery, on her return from New Orleans to London, at 3.^ degrees more to the southward, and nearly on the same meridians, met with heavy squalls, a strong gale from the N.W., and a high cross sea, which continued for nearly twenty-four hours, and to longi'ude 48°. Here.ibout, therefore, all the seaman's spirit, vigilance, and skill, are required. Between the meridians of 52° and 47° W. 28t!j to 31st July, 1823, Captain Hamlin, in the ship George IV., from the S.W., crossed the parallel of 40" N., all moderate and pleasant weather, with N.W. and westerly winds. Ship George IV., 3d April, 1824, homeward. " Squally and unsettled, with lightning. At noon, lat. 40" 14', long. 50*^ 33'. Next day, variable, with heavy showers. On the 5th, heavy showers of hail, succeeded by a smart breeze from the North. Lat. at noon, 40° 28', long. 46^°." PHENOMENA westward of Newi-oundland, as described by Captain Bayfield. — Among the difficulties of the navigation in the Gulf of St. Lawrence are the fogs and ices. In spring the entrance and eastern parts of the Gulf are frequently covered with ice, and vessels are sometimes beset for many days. Being unfitted for contending with this danger, they often suffer from it, and are occasionally lost ; but all danger from ice is far less than that which arises from the prevalence of fogs. These may occur at any lime during the open or navigable season, but are most frequent in the early part of summer; they are rare, and never of long continuance, during westerly winds, but seldom fail to accompany an easterly wind of any strength or duration. This observation is, however, subject to restric- tion, according to locality or season. Thus winds between the south and west, which are usually clear weather winds above Anticosti, are frequently accompanied with fog in the eastern parts of the Gulf. Winds between the south and east are almost always accom- panied with rain and fog in every part. E.N.E. winds above Point de Monts, at the mouth of the river, are often E.S.E. or S.H winds in the Gulf, being changed in direction by the high lands of the south coast, and have, therefore, in general, the same foggy character. This is said of winds of considerable strength and duration, and which may extend over great distances. Moderate and partial fine weather-winds may occur without fog at any season, and in any locality. In the early part of the navigable season, especially in the months of April and May, with clear weather, N.E. winds are of frequent occurrence, and they sometimes occur at other seasons, in every part of the Gulf and river. The fogs sometimes last several days in succession, and to a vessel either running up or beating down, during their continuance, there is no safe guide but the constant use of the deep sea lead, with a chart containing correct soundings. The fogs which accompany easterly galea extend high up into the atmosphere, and cannot be looked over from any part of the rigging of a ship. They however are not so thick as ^> %■ .4' (JENERAL HEM AUKS AND DIRECTIONS. v.. on tlie hours \\n; I. Ill the one rt. m. hip aback, )ard davit, on. Willi and, witli •ed, tryinc: stern, and id dropped ler in, but sometimes unmanage- l prevailed, on, by ace. lien drifted I S.VV. and ;perienced : Bank. At ilily of ice- relurn from 1 the same 5 sea, whicli lerefore, all Ilanilin, in iderate and lightning. On the t. at noon, lYFIEI.D. — and ices, ith ice, and [his danger, ir less than iiring the !y are rare, >mpany an to restric- which are [fog in the lys accom- the mouth [ion by the character. :tend over fog at any jUy in the [rence, and ling up or luse of the Imd cannot I) thick as ■H: those which occur in calms after a strong wind, and which are frequently so dense as to conceal a vessel within hail ; whilst the former often, but not always, admit the land or oilier objects to be distinguished at the distance of half a mile, or more, in the day-time. The dense fogs which occur in calms, and even in very light winds, often extend only to small elevations above the sea ; so that it sometimes happens, when objects are hidden at the distance of 60 yards from the deck, they can be plainly seen by a person 60 or 60 feet up the rigging. In the months of October and November the fogs and rain, that accompany easterly gales, are replaced by thick snow, which causes equal embarrassment to the navigator. During the navigable season, the prevailing winds are either directly up or directly down the estuary of St. Lawrence, following the course of the chains of high lands on either side of the great valley of the river. Thus a S.E. wind in the Gulf becomes E.S.E. between Anticosti and the south coast, E.N.E. above Point de Monts, and N.E. above Green Island. The westerly winds do not appear to be so much guided in direction by the high iiiiids, excepting along the south coast, where a VV.S.W. wind at the Isle Bic has been seen to become West, W.N.W. and N.W, on running down along the high and curved south coast, until it became a N.N.W^ wind at Cape Gaspe. These winds frequently blow strong for three or four days in succession ; the westerly winds being almost always ac- companied with fine dry clear and sunny weather; the easterly winds as frequently with the contrary, cold, wet, and foggy. In the spring the easterly winds prevail most ; frequently blowing for several weeks in succession. As the summer advances the westerly winds become more frequent, and the S.W. wind maybe said to be the prevailing wind in summer in all parts of the river and gulf. Light south winds take place occasionally; but north winds are not common in summer, although they sometimes occur. Steady north winds do not blow frequently before September, excepting for a few hours at a time, when they generally succeed easteily winds which have died away to a calm, forming the com- mencement of strong winds, and usually veering to the S.VV. The N.W. wind is dry, with bright clear sky, flying clouds, and showers. After the autumnal equinox, winds to the northward of west become more common, and are then often strong steady winds of considerable duration. In the months of October and November the N.W. wind frequently blows with great violence, in heavy squalls, with passing showers of hail and snow, and attended with sharp frost. Thunder storms are not uncommon in July and August ; they seldom last above an hour or two ; but the wind proceeding from them is, in general, violent and sudden, particularly when near the mountainous part of the coast; sail should, therefore, be fully and quickly reduced on their approach. Strong winds seldom veer from one quarter of the compass to another directly, or nearly contrary: in general they die away by degrees to a calm, and are succeeded by a wind in the opposite direction. It is not here meant that they may not veer to the amount of several points. N.W. winds seldom or never veer round by north and N.E. to east and S.E. ; but they do frequently, by degrees, to the S.W., afier becoming moderate. S.W. winds seldom veer by the N.W. and north to the eastward, but sometimes by the south to S.E. and east. Easterly winds generally decrease to a calm, and are succeeded by a wind from the opposite direction. In the fine weather-westerly winds of summer, a fresh topgallant breeze will often de- crease to a light breeze or calm at night, and spring up again from the same quarter on the following morning : under these circumstances only may a land breeze off the north coast be looked for. The same has been observed off the south coast also, but not so decidedly, nor extending so far off shore. Captain Bayfield adds, '* I have occasionally carried the north land-wind nearly over to the south coast just before day-light, but have never observed the south land-wind extend more than five or six miles off, and that very rarely. Under the same circumstances, that is, with a fine weather- westerly wind going down with the sun, a S.W. land-breeze will frequently be found blowing off the north coast of Anticosti at night, and during the early part of the morning. If, however, the weather be not settled fair, and the wind does not fall with the sun, it will usually prove worse than useless to run a vessel close in shore at night, in the hope of a breeze off the land. Such is the usual course of the winds in common seasons, in which a very heavy gale of wind will probably not be experienced from May to October, although close reefed topsail breezes are usually common enough. Occasionally, however, there are years the character of which is decidedly stormy. Gales of wind, of considerable strength, then ill I. , i: 4 GENERAL KEMAllKS AND DIUECTIONS. follow each other in quick succession, and from opposite quarters. The marine barometer, which is at all times of great use to the navigator, becomes particularly so in such seasons. 2. CURRENTS) Sec. — It has been shown in our volume on the Navigation of the Atlantic Ocean, how the Currents generally set, from Hudson's Strait, &c., to tiic Eastern Coast of Newfoundland, and through the Strait of Bell-Isle into the Culf of St. Lawrence. Hence it may be seen, that they also affect the western navigation of the island; and, with the vast ebb of the Iliver of St. Lawrence, which constantly sets down, with great strength, into the Gulf, they produce an accumulation of water, which can escape by the southward only. In the early part of the year, when the snows and ices are in a melting state, the outset must be considerably increased ; it may, tiierefore, be pre- sumed, that there is, in this season, a considerable efflux or stream of water from the Gulf, setting to the south, S.W., and south-eastward. Captain Pornton, a commander who has long sailed in the Newfoundland trade, states that a branch of current, which appears to come from Hudson's l?ay, always sets to the south-westward, off the eastern coast of Newfoundland : sometimes with a velocity of two miles an hour. Its strength, however, varies with the direction and force of the wind. Passing down the eastern coast of Newfoundland, it turns round Cape Race, and sets thence, along the south side of the island, until it meets with the current from the St. Lawrence, a little to the westward of St. Pierre and Miquelon Islands. The combined action of these two currents, with that of the Stream to the southward, may, perhaps, produce that counter current which has been found along the inner edge of the Gulf- Stream : but, be this as it may, it is very probable that it is owing to the influence of the Hudson's Bay current that so many shipwrecks happen on the south coast of Newfound- land, about Cape Pine, &c. For ships coming from the St. Lawrence and thence along the coast of Newfoundland, meet this current ; and, if it happen that they have calms, or light or head winds, it sets them imperceptibly to the westward of tiieir reckoning; and when, supposing that they are to the eastward of Cape Race, they alter their course more to the northward; should the weather, as it often is, be foggy, they get on shore at a time when they consider themselves clear of the land.* At times, it seems, the westerly current may extend farther than the limit above described. In a letter from a captain of the Royal Navy, dated Breton Island, 13th May, 1822, we have the following expressions : — " It frequently happens that a ship bound from England to Quebec, strikes soundings on the Banks of Newfoundland, and shapes her course thence to pass between Cape North, on Breton Island, and Cape Ray, on Newfoundland, into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, without seeing the land, which is hid in fog; and, unable to make a proper allowance for a current that sometimes runs at the late oi' four miles an hour, is swept away to the westward, and runs, with a leading wind, on our iron-bound shores, when her commander fancies he is steering directly into the gulf; a misfortune that is too often announced by the bodies of the unhappy mariners, and the fragments of their vessels with which our shores are strewed. " It should be made known that there is a settlement on Aslipe Harbour, to the south- ward of Cape North ; as, from want of this information, many an unfortunate seaman has perished from cold and hunger, after escaping shipwreck ; and that vessels of any draught of water may safely anchor all round the island, as wind and weather may require. The soundings, at half to three-quarters of a mile, are 7 and 8 fathoms." f But, to revert to the currents. The British frigate, Tweed, on her passage to St. .John's, Newfoundland, struck upon the coast, near Cape Spear, and was wrecked in the night of the 5th of November, 1813. This event, most probably, was the effect of an unknown south-westerly current, or a current setting south-westward, toward Cape Race. To different currents must be attributed the loss of the sloop Cotnus, the transport llarpooner, H. M. ship Drake, the brig Spence, and the Marshal Maedonald, all of which were lost, at different times, upon one spot ; the li'ile bay, called St. Shot's Bay, on the south coast of Newfoundland, and lying between Cape Treels and St. Mary's Bay. The particulars of all these melancholy events are detailed in the follovving paragraphs. ' Substance of a communication to and from the late Mr. Wm. Heron, of Greenock. I Wc trust that (lie Liplitliouses icceiUly established on the island of St. Paul, and which have been described, will materially contribute to facilitate this otherwise dangerous navigation. t. =* GENERAL UERIAIIKS AND J)IUtCTIONS. .5 laroineter, seasons. ion of tlie :., to tlic e Gulf of ion of the sets down, ,vhich can id ices are e, be pre- 1 the Gulf, nde, states sets to the city of two ' the wind. e, and sets om the St. combined f, perhaps, f the (iulf- ?iice of tiie Newfound- lence aloncf 3 calms, or )ning; and oiirse more re at a time e described. 1822, we m England urse thence id, into the >le to make un hour, is jnd shores, tluit is too eir vessels the south- seaman has iy draught luire. The ige to St. ,' recked '\\\ Iffect of an Ipe Race. transport ll of which Bj/, on the Iry's Bay. [graphs. ifhich liavc ** The Currents about Newfoundland are yet imperfectly understood, and among the first notices of them are some Remarks given by M. de Cassini, wiiich ought, long since, to have been generally known. This voyage of M.de Cassini was undertaken fur the purpose of making experiments on M. Lo Hoy's timekeepers, in 1708. The frigate V Enjouce sailed from Havre de Grace on the 14th of June, and the mist over the (Jriat IJank was discovered on the 0th of July. On the 11th soundings were found at 84 fathoms, and a tod was cauijht. The tish and the plummet came up almost at the same instant, and con- firmed the ship's furival at the Uaiik. " The very next day after we had reached the Bank of Newfoundland, the fog and calm overtook us: this is the weather that commonly prevails there.* As the calm continued the whole day, we employed the time of this inaction in fishini;. " The fourteen days we spent from our arrival at the Bank to our landiii-, were one con- tinued series of fogs, which made us very uneasy. The great immber of ships liiat crowded about the Hank, kept us in continual apprehensions of running foul of son)e of them in the fog. Besides, having been for several days unable to observe the latitude, we durst not advance, from fear of striking against the bars of Cape Race. Our charts placed us about the longitude of those rocks, and the computed latitude brought us pretty near them. 'J'iiese last days of our first run were the worst we had yet met with, and indeed the worst of the whole voyage. Transplanted into a horrid climate, constantly choked with fogs, we seemed to be, forever, excluded from the sight of the sun ; nor could we hope to land, whilst this fog intercepted the coast. It was dangerous to go in search of the shore, even when the mist seemed to be dispersing. It is no uncommon thing in this latitude to see the finest clearing succeeded by a prodigious thick fog, and this within half an hour. Then the pilot repents his having approached the land, misled by the appearance of a clear sky, esj)ecially if he has not had time to take a survey of it ; how can he get clear, if the wind is not very favourable? What track shall he pursue to escape running aground? Such are the inconveniences and hazards of navigation, in the latitudes we were then in ; and we were not long before we experienced how critical our situation was. " We waited only for the instant when the weather should clear up, to go and recon- noitre the land, from which we deemed we were not far distant. We thought we Iiad at last attained the summit of our wishes. On the 22nd of July, the finest sky imaginable filled us with hope and joy. The horizon, thougli not quite so clear as we could have wished, seemed, neveiUieless, to promise a sight of land at five or six leagues distance. Cpon the strength of this delusive appearance, we ran directly toward the landing-place, with a brisk wind ; but how great was our amazement, when, without discovering any land, we suddenly perceived, at a small distance before us, the dashing of the waters, wiiich could only be occasioned by the coast, or by rocks or breakers, which the fog concealed from our sight. No time was to be lost ; we tacked about, and made all the sail we could, to get away from a coast where it is dangerous being wind-bound, on account of the violent currents, which may drive the vessel asliore, if she has the misfor- tune to be becalmed. Happily for us, the wind favoured cur fiight, and we made for the Great Bank, there to wait, till a less fallacious change of weather should permit us to go safely in quest of land. " This we had an opportunity of effecting two days after, by the finest weather ima- ginable. Nothing is more gloomy than the sky darkened by that thick and damp fog, as nothing is more beautiful than that very sky, when a north-east wind drives away the fog, and exhibits a well-terminated horizon. The sun was not yet risen, when the mist, which had been constant all the 23d, dispersed in an instant; a clear sky and a fair wind determined us to make directly for land. We set sail at two in the morning ; at eight v.e discovered a small eminence rising in the most distant horizon. At noon the figure of this, and several other points, which appeared as we drew nearer, made us conjecture that the land we saw was the coast of Newfoundland, and that this first eminence was the Chapeau-rojige, or Red-hat. However, we were still too far off to judge with any * At and about tlie Great Bank, these horrid fogs infest tlie air most part of the ytar, and will last eight or ten days successively, sometimes longer. In winter tlicy are not so frequent ; but from the middle part of spring to December, they arc almost constant : they arc, at times, .so tliick, that one cannot ,sec at ten fathoms distanrc. An incessant rain drops from the sails and rigfi;in(f. 'J'hf sea is seldom rough about llic Great Hank. The sailors commonly ask those who come from the fipci! sea, " JIow h llic wcatlio abroad^''' h^ ■ « !!! rli !« ! If j i If i ,' it H I ! f ii, I i 6 GENKUAI. UEMAIIKS AND DIUIXTIOX S. ceitaiiity ; hut at four in tlie afieniooii, being but four Icai^ues distant, wc plainly saw we wore not mistaken. Tiie Uediiat, aiul, in ueneral, tlie wlioU; coast of Newfoundland, is very sleep, and rises very far above llie level of the sea : we first discovctred it at near 16 leagues disiance. The ships that sail in this latitude commonly take notice of this mountain, its form being very distinguishable." The CoMis, lost in St. Sliol^s lUiy, — The Comus, above mentioned, was lost in the night of the 'J4th of October, 10 Hi, at the entrance of St. S/iat's liai/. At .ten o'clock, it was supposed, " from reckoning and double altitude, (which was taken that day,) they were on the inner edge of the Gieen Bank; sounded, and found that they were in 25 fathoms of water, the exact depth on that bank as laid down in the Admiralty charts, which they referred to ; but, for the greater safety of the ship, it tlien blowing very fresh, hauled her wind, with the head cff-shore, and stood on under easy sail. At forty-live minutes past eleven, struck on a reef of rocks, extending from the eastern head bf St. Shot's Bay, into the sea, owing to the amuz'uii; bulravg/it into the different hui/s, and which threw the ship out of her reckoning. The helm was immediately put down, and the sails braced aback, to get sternway, when she was unfortunately caught by a rock, on the lar- board quarter, and bilged before the boats could be got out ; every exertion was used to save the ship, but in vain. At the same time, the weather was so foggy that little more than half the ship's length could be seen." The Harpoon ER, lost at St. Shot's Bay. — The Harpooner, which was lost on the 10th of November, 1816. On the 26lh of October, detachments of the 4th lloyal Veteran Battalion, with a few belonging to other corps in Canada, in ; all 380, embarked on board this ship, and sailed from Quebec for London, on the 27ih. On the passage to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, moderate weather and favourable winds prevailed ; but, on arriving in the gulf, the weather proved boisterous, and the wind contrary. Not a sight of land, nor an observation of the sun, could be depended on for several days. On Sunday evening, November 10, at a few minutes after 9 o'clock, the second mate, on watch, cried out, * the shifts aground .'' at which time she lightly struck on the outermost rock of St. Shot's. She beat over, and proceeded to a short distance, when she struck again, and filled. Encircled among rocks, with the wind blowing strong, the night dark, and a very heavy sea, she soon fell over on her beam-ends, and the dreadful consequence may be readily imagined. We cannot attempt to describe it; and shall only add, that it may be found in BeWs Weekly Messenger of December 22, 1816. It is worthy of particular notice that, the two wrecks occurred within three weeks of each other; and it is an extraordinary coincidence that they should happen upon the same spot. Can we doubt that they were produced by similar causes ? After the publication of these lamentable particulars, it was hardly to be expected that similar events were again to occur on this fatal spot ; but the melancholy loss of his Majesty's ship Drake will long be remembered. II. M. S. Drake, lost at St. Shot's. — The Drake sailed from Halifax on Thursday morning, the 20th of June, 1822, for St. John's Newfoundland. The weaUier being uncommonly fine, and the wind favourable, she continued to steer a direct course for Cape Race : on Sunday morning it came on extremely thick, with a fresh breeze from W.S.W. ; at noon it cleared up for about a quarter of an hour, just giving time to get a good observation of the latitude, which agreed very well with the latitude by account. At the time we supposed ourselves, by our reckoning, to be 90 miles from Cape Race. At six in the evening, having run about sixty miles since noon, and finding the fog still continued, we hauled out four points, intending to have steered S.E. during the night; about half-past seven o'clock, all hands being on deck, breakers were reported to be a-head ; the ship was instantly hauled to the wind ; but, not being able to clear the danger on that tack, we endeavoured to stay the vessel ; but, from the heavy sea, and whilst in stay, her stern took the breakers, and she immediately fell, broadside on, the sea beating completely over her ; the masts were immediately cut away, with the view of lightening the vessel, as well as affording a bridge to save the crew, but without success in either point ; for in a few moments, she bilged, at which time there did not appear the slightest hope of saving a man. The cutter was launched over the lee-gangway, but immediately sunk. A man attempted with a lead-line to swim on shore, but the current setting strong to the northward, he was nearly drowned in the attempt. The only hope remained in the gig, the jolly-boat having been washed away, which was launched in the forecastle; with the boatswain and lead-linc ; a heavy surf washed her upon a rock not in i.. iS saw we [Hand, is near 16 of tliis jt in the o'clock, ly,) llicy re in 2Cy y cliarts, 2ry fresh, forty-five ad bf St. nd which I the suils w tiie lar- > used to Itle more ) the 10th I Veteran on board the Gulf rriving in land, nor ■ evening, 1 out, * the ot's. She Encircled y sea, she imagined. 1 in Bell's weeks of 1 the same lected that iss of his Tliursday llier bein;^ course for leeze from to get a lount. At Itace. At \e fog still [he night ; Irted to be clear the sea, and 1, the sea le view of Success in jppear the Tway, but lie current inly hope led in the rock not ^ '^ m V.V.SVMAJ. HKAr.MlKS AN'l) DIllFCTIONS, 7 communicating with tlic main, and daslied her to pieces, an3 than in tin Sprii^i. i^eht.'rall teer to the loop >4e ao°, lind ac;air i course If hi-n . U^ llah- il/irth\vai-;!<, k ■-■• > vory strict look out; this )),.\ illfl (4"?°) 1 should tiideavoui to prt'servc, or imm;1\ nt nothiiii; to tin- soutliwaid, until u. '<• Capo IS:d)le, Nova Scotia; for it can i •^ i' this track you will lie w idhon' the iiortlieni cd.:i' of the Ciult'-Strcam, and assist* I by u south-' ^stcrly current from tl.c hank* until past that island. '• In the Fa I I, of the year, mv track is far ore to the orlhward On ieavini,' the land as late as tlu; inidille of ( u'lober, or , 'reui.AUi the north-westward until I get as far north as 55", and until 1 ei llion edze to iIm' southward, to tutor the Fianks in latitude 16", s to pass about sixty miles to the southward of Sable Island, as al"> fax, and very sure of my latitude, I mi;;iit bo toni|p|ed to pass to t Island; but, at all events, it would be at a throat ri.-k ; and I should iiul, imd f any cir- cumstances, recommend a stranger to altumpl it; as the weather is mostly toiigy, and the set of the currents unaccountable. 'I'lio soundings on Han(iueroau are incorrectly laid down ill every chart that I have yet seen ; beiii:;, in fact, within one hour's sail of the N.K, liar of Sal>lo Island ; from which cause I onco very narrowly escaped shipwreck. Numerous gannets are always hoveriiiLjf about this island, and are a very excellent indica- tion of your near approach to it, particularly on the South side, " Hy crossing the l>anks thus tar North, you will linil the advantage as you approacii the longitudes of Newfoundland and Nova-Scotia: the strong N.NV. and North gales having then commenced, yoii will fre(iuonlly be compelled to lie-to for two or three days : and should then insure suiHcienl drift, before you are blown into the strong influence of the Ciulf-stream ; which wouhl be the case at a few degrees to the southward, and inevi- tably in a S.S.K. direction, at an inconceivable rate. Last November (IH'24) the rase occurred : the vessel being hove-to, under main-to|)sail and storm-trysail, to the westward of the Banks, in latitude 45", and was, in four days, swept into latitude 'M{°, conse- quently into the Gulf-stream ; when the longitude became also considerably afi'ected, and I took the first oj)portunity of making a N.N.W. course, to get out of it as soon as possible. " To prove tlic advantages of a northern track, late in the fall of the year, I may notice that I have, in one or two instances, read, in the American newspapers, the accounts of very long passages experienced by shif)s which met heavy gales in tlie latitudes of 1^5" and 38°, when several vessels were disabled, and others suhered loss of sails ; yet, on the same dm/, in latitude 54°, 1 had moderate weather from the N.N.K. with top-gallant studding sails set ; which strongly encourages me to believe that the blowing weather, incident to approaching winter, commences southerly, and inclines northerly as the season advances, and not the reverse ; an hypothesis generally formed by English ship-masters, but, in my opinion, certainly erroneous. " I am farther of opinion that the influence of die Gulf-stream, in the i)arallels from latitude 35° to 42°p whether from the warmness of the water or other natural causes, has a strong tendency to attract the wind from a western direction ; as I have invariably found the wind more alterative in the northern latitudes before-mentioned than the southern ones; and it unquestionably must be allowed, by all mariners of any observa- tion, that gales experienced in the CJulf-stream, or its vicinity, blow with much greater violence than they do in that part of the northern Atlantic not under its influence : be- sides, the squalls from the southward or *S.W. are much more sudden and heavy, and near the Banks they are attended with dangerous lightning. The thermometer (an in- strument easily understood) is of the greatest importance for ascertaining your approach to it; and, if bound to the West, I would for my own part, endeavour to avoid its effects as cautiously as 1 would a lee-shore : for it may be depended on, that no ship, however well she may sail, will effect westing in the Gulf-stream with a wind from that quarter ; arid it is to be remembered that its velocity is accelerated according to the strength of those winds ; and its extent in breadth, at a few degrees to the westward of the Azores, is many more degrees dian is commonly supposed. " Tliese observations, I hope, may be useful to my brother mariners engaged in these voyages ; and permit me to say, that they are grounded on the experience of at least one hundred times crossing the Atlantic, in his Majesty's and the merchant service, and in the command of vessels in both ; at one time, in one of nearly four hundred tons burthen, the Waterloo, owned in St. John's, New Brunswick ; and, as the Custom Books at Liverpool C f 10 PASSAGES FROM KNGLAND, &C. i •I '1 ! .' ji can testify, landcil four full cargoes in thirtct'ri followirif; moiitlis ; wliicli, iiicludint; tli»* time r('(|uii'(.'y keepni^; in a hi^h latitude, the bri;,' Ward, myself master, also owned in New Urunswick, performed a voyage out and home in seventy-two days. The same vessel likewise, on the 3rd of October, in24, left the Knglisli Channel, and arrived again ai the Downs on the IJrd of January following. " I must add that, a strong well-found and well-manned vessel alone can perform these voyages ; for they must be maintained with unremitting attention and perseverance. " The necessity and propriety of the above; remarks was particularly exemplified by the Ward, which, on her passing through the Downs, in 18'24, I'.fl ships there which were bound to the westward, weather-bound, and found them there on her return, having been driven back by adverse winds; while she, getting out of the Channel, performed with ea.se a prosperous voyage to St. Jolin's, New Urunswick, and back, exactly in three montiis, assisted by chronometer, thermometer, &c. " In the month of June and beginning of July, and sometimes later, the ices from the Arctic Seas are frequently coming down from the northward in dangerous masses. In the same season the tishing vessels are very numerous upon the Bank, on and about the parallel of 45° N. ; consequently, vessels bound to the eastward, from Nova-Scotia, &c., will avoid both, and most safely cross the Grand Bank, at this time of the year, by keeping in, or not proceeding to the northward of, latitude 44"." The preceding remark, by Captain Hare, has been enforced by the pen of an intelligent writer,* who has said, " Although the voyage to and from North America, between the parallels of 60° and 40°, has always been attended with a degree of peril, from masses of ice which drift to the southward, during the summer months, from the polar regions, yet many an unwary mariner makes his run across the Atlantic without any apprehension of meeting these floating dangers, or without sufficiently exercising a proper discretion and vigilance to guard against coming in collision with them. This is not mere conjecture, but the in- formation of persons who annually perform the voyage, beside the result of my own ob- servation, in accidents which have repeatedly occurred to vessels between Newfoundland and England, and in the number of missing ships on this route. Commanders of ships should therefore bear in mind the imperative necessity there is for using their utmost vigilance and attention when crossing the above-named parallels, especially between the meridians of 30° and 60° West, to guard against coming in contact with these formidable dangers of the ocean. " The New York packet ships, well supplied with every essential equipment, and elegantly fitted for the accommodation of passengers, when making their winter voyage from Liverpool, keep in high latitudes until nearing Newfoundland. This they do for the two-fold object of avoiding the tempestuous weather so generally experienced to the southward, and of obtaining fairer winds ; and thus, by slipping within the mighty stream from the Florida Channel, they evade its retarding influence. The voyage by this route is shortened ; and, although bad weather must be expected, it is not so violent as farther south ; besides which, the eastern current is avoided. I believe it is an unusual thing to meet with ice in this part of the Atlantic in the winter ; but we have the following recent instance to the contrary, so that a look-out should be kept in that season, as well as in the summer, by vessels making the voyage. " It appears that the Emulom packet, on the 26th of February, 18.33, met with much field ice on the coast of Nova-Scotia; and in the latitude of 43° N. and long. 49° W., those on board were much surprised by falling in with a large quantity of strongly packed ice, which reduced the vessel's way to 6^ and 7 knots, from sailing at the rate of 9 knots, under close-reefed main-topsail and reefed foresail. On the 4th of March, she fell in with three bergs, of large dimensions, in a run of 95 miles; and at nine the same evening she was obliged to pass between the two easternmost of these before heaving-to for the night; i I', . ;''!'! « i'l ' /tUantica i' Nautical Magazine, June, 1833. ludiii^ tlif !, disctiarKc antic viKlit lMi:n(;.s and ices. 11 '''V after which, l)y keeping a more northerly course, no more of these dangerous floating masses were .seen. '• From al! accounts it seems that the greatest danger is to he ap)irohende lighten the boat, which they accomplished in a most horrid and revolting manner. One hour after this catastrophe the ship Crescent fell in with them, and saved the survivors. Of the jolly-boat no more is known ! The GREAT WESTERN, April, 1811.— Tiie" Great Wt.stern," steam ship, Captain James Ilosken, on Sunday the 8lh of April, 1811, at 6 p. m. steering west, saw an ice-berg on the starboard bow ; at 7h. 30 m. passed it; at tiiat time four or five others were in sight; at 9 h. 1,5 m. passed several small pieces of ice. In a few minutes after, the ship was surrounded with light field ice, and went on slowly, with the hope of getting through, but it became much thicker, and closely packed : but, at 10 h. 15 m. she succeeded in get- ting her head to the eastward, and by II was entirely clear. Prom that time went slowly, passing several ice-bergs : the night at times very clear : the a\irora borealis very bright. At 3 h. 30 m. of the next morning, again embayed in the ice ; stopped, hauled short round on the keel, and steered out E. by S., coasting the ice for five or six miles ; at 4 h. 20 m. kept her to the westward, running through innumerable ice-bergs, until 8 h. 30 m, when she passed the last ice-berg and point of the field ice. When the sun arose the ice was visible as far as the eye could reach, in an unbroken line from N.E. by E. by the northward to N.VV. by W. : at the same time, ice-bergs innumerable and magnificent were seen in every direction. These ices were to the S.S.E. of the Grand Bank of Newfoundland ; the first seen was in latitude 43°, longitude 48^'', and the last in lat. 42^ 20', long. 50*^. There appeared to be an unbroken field of that extent, and it seems to have extended to lat. 40^°, where it was seen on the morning of the 18th by Captain Bailiy, in the American packet ship ' United States.' Captain Ilosken, in his report, adds, " Several other ships fell in with it in the same longitude, and were entirely stopped, giving them an opportunity of killing seals, vvhicti were on it in great numbers." Some of the ice-bergs were estimated by Captain Ilosken as little, if at all, less than a mile long, and from 150 to 200 feet high. This field of ice was in large masses, some of them not less than 20 feet square by six feet thick, or more. The temperature of the water, when within two miles of the ice-berg first seen, fell sud- denly from 50 to 36 degrees ; air, 40 to 36 degrees. When in the ice the water was 25°, air 28°. During the remainder of the night and the following morni-.g the water was not higher than 30" nor the air higher than .'^''*. Imme- diately after passing the last ice the water became 36 and the air 42 dec^iees. The LONDON, arrived at Liverpool, 3rd June, I3H, struck, un the i2lh of May, against an ice-berg, near thcS.E. side oftlie (Jiand Bank, in latitude 43°, long. 50^°, stove in the larboard how, and lost bowsprit, mam-topmast, '*^cc. > . • ^ k I ^ ■'4 m GULF OF ST. LAW II P:\CE. 13 l»e arrived e ice, and ins vessel number of onie state, tlier boat. 1 off were ler, sailed heard of, r that she linery, or, liicli, stern wever, the Phil;idel- ieng;ers antl f the crew, jolly-boat ; 's after, the in order to iner. One ! survivors. ip, Captain an ice -berg ers were in er, the ship ng through, ded in get- k-ent slowly, very bright, short round 4h. 20 m. 0. when she broken line inumerable st seen was ippeared to [rhere it was lip ' IJniled in the same pals, which less than a bs, some of |n, fell sud- tht and the '. Imme- »i of May, kOi°, stove f In the same season, the Juliet, from Newfound! uid, was a forlnigiit locked up in the ice, without seeing water. ^)RF1IKUS, Pauline, and Isahkli. a.— Captain Cole, of the Oip/icus, who arrived at New York, in June, 1841, reported that, in latitude '17' 30', long. 4<)", weather fogoy, found the ship among ice-bergs, and continued sailing among ice for five days. Some were 100 feet high, and fields several miles long. Was obliged to steer south to got clear of it. The Uromenese ship Vniilinc fell in with several islands of ice on the 18th of May, one of them a berg 160 feet above the water and two miles long. The ship Isabella, Meredith, from London to (Quebec, was struck by an ice-berg on the 9lh of May, in lat. 42° 2', long. 43" 4,")'. The ice broke through the bows, and caused the' ship to fill with water so fast, thnt the crew had barely time to take to tiie boats, without vvater, provisions, or clothing. The ship immediately went down, or disappeared in the fog. The crew continued in the boat, at the mercy of the waves, tmtil the afternoon of the 1 1th, when they were picked up by the Kingston of Hull, bound to I'ictou, and kindly treated. They arrived at Pictou, one man excepted, who died in the boat. The ACADIA, in 1842.— On the 16th of May, 1842, Captain Alex. Ryrie, in the Acadia, off the eastern side of the (irand Bank, in latitude 46'', longitude 47°, saw nearly a hundred ice-bergs, some of them of large size, and one bearing so strong a resemblance, in shape and apparent magnitude, to St. I'aul's in London, that it was at once named after that celebrated calhetlial. The dome was perfect, and it required no extraordinary stretch of imagination to supply the turrets, pinnacles, and other parts of the building. On the homeward passage of the Aradia to Liverpool, June ()th, the same object was seen, and the immediate exclamation on board was, " There is our old friend, St. Paul's." In the interin\ between the two views the ice-berg nad drifted about 70 miles. In our ' Atlantic Memoir,' 18 10, pages 426 to 429, we have given a detail of many other instances in which ships have been lost or materially damaged by the ices ; and we particu- larly recommend to notice the important remarks of Lieut. Evans, R.N., given in page 429 of that work. PRESERVATION of Liie at Sea.— We shall conclude this part of our subject by noticing that, on die 20th of September, lo4C', it was announced that a letter had been received at Lloyd's, from Lieut. Edw. Jennings, R.N., suggesting the general adoption, in rough weather, of life-lines being led fore and aft, both to windward and leeward, so that the men may have something to lay hold of in passing from one end of the vessel to anodier. In addition to this, he advises that each man be furnished with a belt, made gasket fashion, about a fathom and a half long. Tlie utility of this is shown by the wearer, when in an exposed situation, such as on tlie forecastle, conning, steering, ^c, taking two half-hitches witii it, to cither tiie life-line or any of the standing rigging, &c. lie observes, that such a belt could not interfere with t!)c wearer's duty aloft, as at such times the end might be wound round the body and tucked in, so as to avoid inconvenience to the wearer. This hint is worthy of serious notice, and is creditable to its author. GULF OF St. LAWRENCE, &c.— Those bound to the (Julf of St. Lawrence, after passing to the soudiward of the Virgin Rocks, on the Grand Bank and the Island of St. Pierre, should keep a middle course between Newfoundland and Breton Island; not for- getting what has been heretofore said on the Winds and Currents; recollecting, also, that the harbours on the coast, westward of Fortune Bay, are impeded vvidi dangers; there are many rocks about the entrances, and most of the harbours are imperfectly known. The rocks are not to be seen in thick weather, and fogs very much prevail on the coast. Commanders hound to the Gulf will do well to observe that, off the SouUi ('oast of Newfoundland, between the meridians of 56° and 55° o5', and the parallels of 4^" 10' and 46° 15', is a deep gully in the sea, extending in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction, and separating the Bank of St. Pierre from die Green Bank. The method adopted by the French vessels bound to St. Pierre, for- making that island, is as Jollous : — From the longitude of 52° \V., in latitude 45°, they steer a N.W. course (by compass) which carries them across the Green Bank, in about 43 and 44 fathoms of water ; and, when on die meridian of 55" 15', in about 45° 47' N. they suddenly deepen their water, from 40 to 80 faUioms. A farther run on die same course, of about ten miles, carries them across this gully, when they shoalen their water again to :i} and 30 fatlioms ; and, after a farther run of 23 mile.s, they steer about N.N.E. directly for the island, and seldom ornever miss it, (Sec the Chart.)' •^ il,l I t i i If! ! i(i 14 ISLAND AND BANMiS 01' NEWFOUNDLAND. Those wlioliave lost their reckonings, on (iiiding this gully, which mny bo known by tlic water shoaling on the cast and west sides of it, an experiment that is fVecinently made for ascertaining whetlier they are actually in it or not, may safely take it as a /m/i departure. Commanders, not being aware of it, when lliey have found their water deepen from the Green Hank to the westward, have imagined themselves eiiterinu: the Gulf of St. Lawrf rence ; and, by steering a course too far to the northward, iiave been lost to the eastward of Cape Hay, on the rocks of Newfoundland. The lengtii of tlie gully is about sixty miles, in a N.N.E. and S.S.^^■. direction (by compass), and the middle of it is in latitude 4,5° 3 a , iind longitude 55" 20'. — Coniinumcntion of the French Cominandaut to Captain !Sir likhard Grant, R.N. 1833, corrected hi/ the new Chart. The little island of St. Paul, which lies to the north-eastward of Cape North, now distin- guished by its lighthouses, is bold-to, steep, and high; and, with a good look-out, in the ( .1 4l middle of April, when it ceases altogether. In the winter of 1840, ploughing was going on after (Jiiristmas. The winter of' 1841-2 was unusually changeable, and deluges of r:ii/i, storms of wind, and some share of snow, characterised it. March was also a very cold month, and characterised by an unusually furious snow storm. In 183G the number of acres in cultivation was 11,062, and their produce 10,300 bushels of oats, above a lillion bushels of potatoes, and nearly 7000 tons of hay. The number of horses was lo.l, of horned cattle 5835, and of sheep 3103. The inhabitants are for the most part dependent for provisions upon importation. In fact, if it were not for the fisheries, the island would not probably be settled at all; and as it is, large num- bers resort to it only during the fishing season, and leave it during the winter. The settlements are all upon the coast, the grand occupation of the population being exclusively in the fisheries, and in those branches of industry connected therewith. The peninsula of Avalon, on the S.E., which is united to the main l)ody of the island by a low isthmus little more than three miles wide, is the chief seat of the population, tlie settlements on the other coasts being few and far between, and of little individual importance. In these latter settlements, from their little intercourse with each other, the character of eiicfi is singularly diversified, preserving traits of their origin as distinct as if they had been formed yesterdiiy. The original settlers were cithei from .lersey, England, Scotland, Ireland, or France, and their habits vary accordingly. The extent of the fisheries and oil trade is very great. In 1841 more than 1000 sail of vessels entered, and more than 950 left the ports of the island, leaving out of the reckoning the numerous schooners and small craft engaged in the actual fisheries, which amount during each season to somewhere about 4500. In the British fishery each year are engaged never less than 30,000 seamen, with 10,000 boatmen and curers ; and 140,000 tons of produce are annually exported, Britain and her colonies receiving the largest share, while continental Europe and the United States also take great quantities. Cod, mackarel, herrings, capelin, cods' tongues and sounds, salmon, train-oil, seal-oil, seal-skins, some little poultry, with staves, constitute the chief items of export. The largest portion of the exported cod-fish is caught near the island, the banks being now chiefly occupied by French and Spanish fishermen. The export trade in 1840 was 915,795 quintals of dry cod-fish, (each quintal or 100 pounds of dry fish made from three hundred weight of fresh or " green " fish,) 3,206,58(5 gallons of train and seal oils, 63 1 ,385 seal skins, 3,396 tierces of salmon, and 14,()86 barrels of herrings, which with minor articles were valued at £983,961, being an increase on the previous year of £'82,596. The importations consist of salted provisions from Ireland and Germany ; biscuit from Germany ; flour from the United States and \he North of Europe; Indian-corn meal from the United Slates, &c. The total value of the imports for 1840 was £784,045, an increase on the preceding year oi upwards of £73,488. The City of St. John is the principal settlement, and the only considerable town in the island: it is the seat of government, and the bishopric, and chief harbour for the British vessels. Explicit directions for entering are given hereafter, but the following Remarks in addition may be acceptable. The entrance to St. John's Harbour is through the " Narrows," a strait runnmg in a N.W by W. direction about half a mile long, and « 220 yards across in the narrowest jjart, with rocky precipitous heights of 500 feet on each side. There are front 9 to 12 fatlioms of water in the middle of the channel, with toleiably good anchorage ground. The harbour then opens by a turn at right angles, and runs in a S.W. direction for a mile and a quarter, and in front the city of St. .lohn appears climbing up a hill, from Fort William to Fort Townsend, between which are seen the government house and St. Thomas's church; the former a plain pile of dark stone work, the latter a singular wooden edifice with a curious steeple. The ridge of hills on the S.E. side of the harbour is 750 feet high, and on the opposite side of the Narrows is a continuation of the same ridge, called Signal Hill, 510 feet high, on which is the citadel, to which place all vessels are telegraphed from Cape Spear on their first appearance ofl'that place. On Fort Amherst on the South Head, at the entrance of the Narrows, is a brilliant fixed light. At two-thirds the distance from the entrance to the Iiarbour itself, is a rock, on the north side, called the Chain Rock, which with Pancake Island on the opposite shore, contract the entrance at this part; and between them a chain can be stretched when required, to prevent the entrance of any hostile fleet. In addition to this, the fortifications before mentioned, other batteries which command the entrance, and the Crow's Nest, a small battery perched on the lop of a pyramidal mount on the N. of the entrance of the harbour, render the place perfectly secure a^jainst any sudden attack. 16 ISLAND AND liAXKS OF NEWFOUNDLAND. The city consists ol' lori}:^, iiiPtfular, and in some places voiy narrow, streets, the prin- cipal one being called Walor slri;et, whieli has luicn nnicli improved of hUe years. Duck- worth street, the next preat parallel to Water street, is also iniproviny ; and there arc seveial lateral streets, hut St. John's has not yet arrived at mnch arcintectural embellishment. It stretches for abont two miles alonK the harbour, and the 'ground risin;^ about 120 feel from the sea, causes many of tlio side streets to be inconveniently steep. The principal fccTture of the city is its multitude of wharfs and fishing stages whicli line the shore, which with its nnpainted wooden houses give it a sombre and dismal appearance. The city contains 15,0UO inhabitants.* ' 'S I ii "r %\ ;'■!' T/ir I'utranre In St. Jolin's Ilnrhour. Conception Bay, to the northwestward of St. John's, is t!ie richest and most populon? country district in the island, containing, altogether, abont o(),000 iidiabitants, who are distributed in a number of villages or fishing and agricultural hamlets. Upon the small island, named Bell hie, in this bay, wheat flourishes and ripens well ; as do potatoes, oats, iiay, and vegetables. This spot is, therefore, considered as a nursery garden for the neighbourhood. ToiiUnguet or Tivillingate, in the Archipelago of Erploits, is the most northerly British settlement in the Island. The Banks, which have been, in their fisheries, the source of all the opulence in the * The Order in Council, 1S29, which declared St, John (Newfoundland) a free warehousing port, completed the system wliich was meant to Ijc established by a similar measure with regard to Quebec, Montreal, Halifax, Nt. John (New Brunswick), Pictou, Charlotte-town (Prince Edward's Island), and St. Andrew's. Ui\der the operation of those jiorts, flour and bread stuffs were before imported and bonded for export with a certain duty, but they had not the privileges of British colonial productions in the home-market. The necessary effect was, however, to encourage British shipping, and to give it a considerable portion of the American carrying trade. The new Customs Act provides for securing the American carrying trade much further, A clause permits inasts and timber gene- rally to be imported free into the North American colonies from the United States, and allows it the privileges of British production into the I'lnglish market. More of the British shipping is said to l)e employed in the timber than any other trade, and no doubt was entertained that the clause in «|uestion would have the effect of encouraging it. The principal advantage of the last change will, however, fall to the ports of the lower provinces. — Ncicipa/jer, IS2i(. I i jii7 ts, the prin- \Ts. Duck- d tliere arc bellislniier.t. )ut 120 feet ho principal iliore, which ;. The city lost populous uits, who are ion the small do potatoes, garden for tlierly Britisli ilence in the ISLAND A\n HANKS OF NEMFOUNDLAXl). 17 island, are vast submarine elevations, of various depths and very uneiiual ti^ures, as shown by tiie (Ihart. Tiie depths on tiie Great Bank vary from l.'i to HO fathoms. The quality of the bottom varies considerably, bnt it c^eneraliy consists of sand, or sand mixed with shells and gravel, rarely with stones. The eastern faro of the r)aiiks is a clear sand, white or whitish, and often sparklintr. In the gullies and deeps which separate the bunks, and rnoie particularly in the Whale Deep or Trou de hi Haleine, the bottom is found to consist of mud or oaze with a fetid smell, and abounds with ditiereiit sorts of fish ; but more particularly with cod, which is inconceivably lumierous ; for, allhougii fiom 'JOO to 400 vessels have been annually freighted wi'h this article of commerce for nearly two centuries, there appears to be no sensible decrease of the former plenty. A great swell and thick fog usually indicate the place of tiie bank. The cod are usually most abundant where tlie bottom is sandy ; and the least so where it is muddy. The best depth for them is between 30 and 40 f.uhoms, or less water. In the months of February and April, the fish, which in the winter retire to the deepest water, come on the banks, and fatten quickly. The great fishery generally commences on the banks about the 10th of May, and continues until the end of September. Towards the middle or end of May the first shoal of herrings, called by the natives, spring-herrings, appear on the coasts. These are caught in nets and used as bait. In the middl of June, the capelin, a delicate species of salmon, come in, and last till the middle of July, and with them commences the height of the fishery. Towards the end of July and beginning of August the capelin leave the shores, and the young squids or cuttle-fish succeed them in myriads, and supply their place ; and when these are over, they are succeeded by the fall-herrings, or the autumnal herring shoals. This is in Sep- tember, and is the close of the fishery.* There are, generally, in the spring, within 125 or 130 leagues of the land, and between the Outer and Grand Banks, numerous ice-bergs, or ice-islands, that float down with the current from the north-westward, and which, during the foggy weather, are very dan- gerous : even in the months of June, July, and August, there are frequently a number of them : some of which may be seen aground, in 40 or 50 fathoms of water. In thick weather, the place of these may commonly be distinguished by the ice-hlink, a brightness of the sky above them ; or by the breaking of the sea against them, which may also be heard at a considerable distance ; or by the decrease of the temperature of the water, as shown on page 11. f • In Mr. M'Gregor's work, entitled "British Anwrica," 2 Vol. 1S32. is given a copious descrip- tion of the mode ol'lishinp; on the i5anks, the nietliod of curing, Src. , as shown rilso.in tlic "Nautical Ma^nziin','" June, 1832, page 190. — See iiho Jukoss " Exrursiona in NcirfoioKllaud,"' 1812, vol. i. page 228, and l^onnycastle's " Ntiij'oundhuid in IS 12," vol. ii. page KiO. i5y tlie Treaty of Utrecht, 1713, tlie French retained tlie liberty of fishing off die coasts, and of drying their nets on the sliorcs of Newfoundland, within certain limits ; and, by the treaty of 1703, they may also fish in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, but not witliin the distance of tlirce leagues from any of the coasts belonging to Great Hritain. By tlie treaty of 1783, it was defined that, the subjects of France were to enjoy, imder tlie re- strictions of the previous treaties, the fislicries on the casterti, northern, and western, coasts of Newfoundland, from Cape St. Jolin to Cape Hay ; aud this concession was confirmed bv the treaty of 1814. By Convention with the United Statf.s, of the 20th of October. 1818, the people of the said States, renouncing previous claims, have, for ever, in common with British subjects, tho liberty of taking fish on the southern coast, between Cape Kay and the Kaniea Isles, and oti the western and northern coasts, from Cape Ray to the (iuirpon Isles ; also on the shoies of the Magdalen Islands, and on the coasts, bays, harbours, and creeks, of Labrador, from Mount Joli through the Strait of Bell-Isle, and thence northward, indefinitely, along the coast, but withoiu prejudice to the exclusive rights of the Hudson's Bay Company; and the fishermen of the United States have liberty, forever, to dry and cure fish in any of the nnsedlcd hays, harbours, or creeks, of the southern parts of New- foundland, above desciibed, and of the coast of Labrador, but so long as unsettled only, without previous agreement with the inhabitants, &c. — See, farther, the large Map of the Canadas, Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, &c., published by the proprietor of this Work. f August the 2nd, 183C, the ship Bynm, from Liverpool to New York, heavily laden, and having on board 119 or 120 persons, was suddenly struck in a dark night, by an immense iceberg, estimated at more than 100 feet high, near the edg'e of the Grand Bank, in lat. 41° 22', long. 48" 40'. For some time, in a scene of terror, all was considered as lost. The bowsprit was carried away ; and the stem pressed down by the overhanging column of ice : but, happily the hull was sound, and with day-hght the vessel righttd. On the next day three other mountains of ice were .seen. The progress of these ices confirms the existence and direction of the Arctic or Drift current fioni the North, as shown in our Memoir on tiie Atlantic Ocean. u i 18 VIRGIN HOCKS. '■vM m ij' \l. •.HI' i i 11 ' .0 ii 111!! On appioncliing tlie banks, tlif>re will generally be founti a number of sea-fowls, as vialimauks, ronclies, and divers. Tbe lasl-incntioiied are seldom found at more liian ',\0 leagues from the banks ; but malimauks, and several otlier kinds, are frequently seen during the whole passaue ; although not so numerously elsewhere as in the vicmity of the banks, VZRGrZN ROCKS. — In approaching toward Cape Race, (the S.I', point of Ncuf'oundland,) be careful to avoid the fiifi'in llockn, a dangerous reef, lying 20 lca.rues S.IC. ] Vj. [hJ.hi/ .S'.] f:om tlial cape. In gales of wind a heavy sea breaks over them ; and a strong current, which sets about them, often increases the danger. The existence of the Virgin llncks having been (piestioned, it is proper to communicate the following extract of a letter, addressed by Arthur Kemp, master of the brig Indifina, of Dartmouth, to tlic publislier of the Ncwf(mHilland (uizctte : — " On the i'Jc' of October, ISi.!, at noon, I left Cape Hroyle, after a strong gale from S.K., with the wind at W.N.NV. steering S.K. by S. The following morning, at fi a. in., having run 84 miles, I was alarmed with the cry of ' hrcakcrs a-liend,' and almost immediately saw them to such an alarming extent, as obliged me to alter tlie course from S.K. by S. to E. by N., it not being possible to clear them im the other tack. After giving the breakers a good berth, and leaving them to the southward, distant four miles, I hove the main top-sail to the mast, and lay by from 10 o'clock till noon, and observed in latitude 4G° 33', longitude .50° .'■)1' ; the extent of breakers appeared to be about two miles, and were more tremend- ously alarming than I have ever experienced, during twenty-three years that I have (chiefly in this trade) commanded a vessel." The reef has since been surveyed by Mr, Rose, master of II. M, S, Tt/ne, who, with Captain Uishop, of II. M. brig Manlj/, has ascertained its situation. The following are the particulars. The bank in which the shoal is situated, extends E. by N, and W. by S. 4| miles ; its broadest part is about 2"i miles. The soundings are regular from 28 to 30 fathoms, until they deepen suddenly on the outer edge to 39 and 43. The rocks themselves are in 46° 26' 30" N. and 50° 51' 30" W. They extend in an irregular chain, S.W, by W. and N.E. by E. 800 yards, varying from 200 to 300 yards in breadth. The least depth of water is on a white rock, in 4^ fathoms, with 5 to 6i fathoms all round it ; the bottom distinctly visible. Toward the extremities of the shoal are several detached rocks of from 7 to 9 fathoms, with deep water between, and with a current setting over them W.S.W. one mile an hour ; and with also a very confused heavy swell. The vessels were anchored upon the rocks for the space of two days, during which the weather was extremely pleasant, and every way favourable for taking the most accurate observations. Variation 26*^ 30' \V, A copious detail relative to the reef is given in the Nautical Magazine, No. 1, page 10; and it is there noticed that the longitude of the rocks, assuming Halifax dock-yard in 03° 38' 41", is bO° 56' 3.V', but if our longitude of Halifax be correct, 63° 33' 40", the longitude will be only 50° 51' 34" ; and in the chart of the rocks it is stated as 50° 51' 30", although laid down in 50° 56^.* The surrounding bank has been noted as a good fishery. Ships bound to St. John's are, therefore, recommended to keep on the parallel of 46°, or a degree and a half to the southward of the parallel of that port, as and until they approach the outer edge of the Great Bank ; and, when they obtain soundings, to steer directly to the north-westward for Cape Spear, the position of which is given as 47* 31' N. and 52° 33|' W.f • From a comparison of the distances from Cape Race, given by different mercantile commanders, we, however, admit the latter as nearest to the truth. t We are aware that a recent chart of the S.E, and South coasts of Newfoundland places the whole about eiylit minutes more to the West, tlian we have given it. Former diarts had it as much more to tlic Eaut. We still adhere to the statement given in the ' Jt/aiiiic Memoir,' p. 31. The Admnalty chart of Trinity and Conception Bays, KSUj, places Cape Spear in longitude 52'' liU,, and Fort Amherst in o2*-' 37' ; longitudes which may safely be adopted. In a former work, the ' Colombian Navigator,' ISIW, has been shown the probability of an erroneous assumption of longitude for Halifax Dock-yard, and the consequence of so assuming it as a fust meridian. If the chronometric distances have been gained from such meridian, the conse- tjucnce must be obvious, and the error much more extensive than was supposed. ^ n »ea-fowls, ns lore tliau 30 seen during f the banks. .v.. point of ij 20 Icau'ues over tliem ; ;nmnnunicate ; Inditina, of of October, JatVV.N.W. miles, I was 1 to such an )y N., it not good berth, p-sail to the 5', longitude lore tremend- have (chiefly e, who, with following are 4| miles ; its ilhoms, until extend in an ;o 300 yards ^ith 5 to 6.i of the shoal ;md with a n fused heavy g which the lost accurate 1 , page 1 ; lock-yard in |33' 40", the is stated as ;en noted as parallel of IS and until pundings, to is given as Icommanders, Id places the tid it us much p. 34. The Ide 52'' 33i-, [ability of an Isuining it as 1, the coiisc- ST. JOHN S llAUnOUR. ]() EASTERN .AND NORTHERN (OASTS oi I NEWFOUNDLAND. I.- CAPK SPKAR AND St. JOHN'S HARBOUR, to CAPT, St. FRANCIS. Lk.h r-HuusF, o\ Cai'i, Sit.aii. — Since the 1st of Sepleinber, I83G, a light-house cm (Jape Spear has exiiibitcd a ])ovvi'rful revolving liiiht at 27."> ftet above the level of the sea, which, ill dear weatlier, may bo seen at ci;jlit or nine, and in ordinary weather, at five or six leagues off. The liglit shows a brilliant iiasli at regular intervals of one minute. Upon Fort Amht'yst, on the South liead at the entrance to St. John's Harbour, tiiere is shown a liritlhait fiicd li^lil, which may also from its elevation, be seen at a considerable distance. The HARBOUR of ST> JOHN, which is the principal harbour of Newfound. land, is an excellent one, altlioui^h the entrance is narrow, being only IGO fathoms in breadth; willi hi;;li, bold, and pr(;cipilous land on each side.'' The entrance lies N.W. by W., and within will be found to narrow ; as, in the inner part, there is a rock on each j side, but above water. Here the breadtir of the chanirel is only 9.5 fatiioms, and the depth 8. When past these rocks you may run on boldly, without arry fear of dairi;er, only « avoiding a rock oir the soutii side, called I'rossir's lU>ck, on which liiere are orrly 9 feet of water, and lying at about 30 fathoms from the shore, off a reef lying within the King's wharf. Within the harbour you may anchor in any depth from 4 to 10 fathoms, land-locked from all winds, as the harbour within the Narrows lies W.S.W. It is, however, to bo noticed, that there is no possibility of sailing in, unless with the wirrd I'rom S.W. by S. to East. The wind from S.W. to N.K. by N., blows out of t'ire Narrows. Here ships must then anchor-, and warp in, for which purpose there are rings in the rocks on both sides. The following Directions ior St. John's have been given by Mr. Owen. "The entrance of St. John's Harbour, is readily krrown by the block-house on Signal- hill on the North Head, and Amherst Fort on the ^outh Head.f There is a sunken rock, called the Feslul, 50 fathoms without South Head, with only 2j feet of water on it. This rock is about 10 fathonrs long and 7 broad ; the marks for it are, I'ort \\ illiam (which stands within the harbour on the north side) open of South Head, beariirg N. 39 deg. W. ; and the outer Jfush-tjuU Rock open with Cuckold's Head, bearing N. 47 deg. E. The Wash-ball Rocks join the North Head ; they are all above water and steep-to, there- fore not dangerous. The course in the Narrows is N.W. by W., distance 370 fithoms, to C/iain Rock oir the North, and the Rancuke on the South, side. Roth these i-ocks are above water, and steep-to. Sixty-tive fathoms within the Pancake Rock, otr the South shore, lies the Little Pancake, a rocky shoal, dry at low water ; and 80 fathoms within the latter lies a sunkerr rock, called Prosser's Rock, running off 30 fathoms from a rock above water, in form of a saddle, with 18 feet of water in the hollow, and only 5 feet on the outside. It is steep-to, with 5 fathoms close to if. After you have passed Prosser's Rock, you may stand to either shore, as they are clear and sleep-to. You mn.y anchor in what water you please, from 8 to 4 faUioras, muddy bottom. *' The tide of St. John's sometimes rises 7 or 8 feet ; it is not regular, but greatly influ- enced by the wind." Be very cautious, if unacquainted with the coast, that you mistake not the place called Chikli Villi, or Kitty Vitty, for the harbour of St. John's, as it shows an opening like a good harbour, but is tit only for boats, and not safe even ibr these at low water. Fort Aiitfierst, which stands on the South head of St. John's, appears white, and the flagstafi's on the hill, over the North head, will point to the harbour of St. .lohn's: besides these, the • An appearance of the entrance is given by Mr- Owen, on his particular chart of the harbour. f At half a mile S.E. | S. from Fort Amherst is the centre of a narrow bank, having 14 fatiioms over it, and which breaks in rough weather. It extends nearly a iprarter of a mile N.E. and S.W. and has on it, near each end, a depth of 20 fathoms. It is high water in the harbour, oir the full and change, at 7 h. 30 ni. Spring tides rise 5, neap? •4 ft'ct. 20 CONCEPTION BAY. iM.'i i i.1 IJ •!:. course from Cape Spear is N.N.W., and the distance about 4 miles. The position of Fort Amherst, as lately given, is lat. 47° 33 i', long. 52° 37'. Between the harbour of St. John and Cape Spear are three bays ; the first is from St. John's to Low Point, and is called Freshivaler Bay ; the second, from Low Point to Black Head, is called Deadmaiis Buy ; the third is from Black Head to Cape Spear, and is called Cape Bay. ST. JOHN'S HARBOUR to CONCEPTION BAY.— Fuom St. John's to Touijay the course is between N.E. by N. (being at a little distance without the harbour) and N.N.E. distance 7 J miles. Between St. John's and Torbay are several points, which have names ; viz. first CuckolWs Head, on the south side of the Gut of Quidi Vull ; the next is Small Point, which lies 21 miles N.E. j N. from the entrance of St. John's; the third is Sugar-Loaf Point, and it lies N. by E. ) E. half a league from Small Point ; the fourth is tied-Head, lying N.N.E. from Sugar-Loaf, about 2 miles. Between the Sugar- Loaf and Red Head is a Bay, called Logic Bay. The fifth point is the South point of 'Torbay, which lies a mile and a half N. i E. from Red-head. This point of Torbay is the lowest of these points. From the South point of Torbay to the anchoring place, where ships usually ride, the course is N.VV. by W. Here you may anchor in 14 fathoms, against Green Cove. Should you be open of the bay, the course in is West ; for the bay is two miles in extent between the South and the North points. The latter is a low black point, with a flat rock off it, over which the sea breaks: in passing this, from the northv/ard, the course into Torbay is VV.S.W. Torbay is a bad place for ships to ride in with the wind from seaward ; for, being open to the ocean, a great sea falls into it. From Flat Ruck Point, or the North point of Torbay, the course and distance to Black- head, are N. ^ E. 3| miles. Flat Rock Point is a long, smooth, sloping pavement of red sandstone; hence its name. FiioM Black-Head to Cape St. Francis, the bearing and distance areN. by W. ^ W. 3 miles ; Cape St. Francis is a whitish point, and low in comparison with the other land ; but, from sea, the high land over it marks a cove, called Shoe Cove, where boats used to come a tilting, (using the fishermen's expression,) that is, to split and salt the fish they catch, when blowing hard and in bad weather, when they cannot gain the places they belong to in time. In this cove you may haul up a boat to save her, if the wind be out; for with northerly, westerly, and southerly winds, you will lie safely. There is a good place off it for fishing. From Cape St. Francis to the distance of a mile off, triangular-wise, lie sunken rocks, called the Brandys ; the outermost, east from the cape, about a mile and three-quarters. There are also islets, or great rocks above water, the outermost of which lies about three- quarters of a mile E.S.E. from the cape; and the innermost not half a mile off shore; between these islets and the sunken rocks, you may go with boats, and find fresh water ; but men are generally unwilling to venture. Shoe Cove is protected by the rocks. There is another cove, to the northward of the point of the cape, for boats, when the wind is off the shore ; but, if otherwise, it is not safe. IL— CONCEPTION BAY, between CAPE ST. FRANCIS and BACALIEU, or BACALAO ISLE. CONCSFTZON BAV,— From Cape St. Francis to Bell Isle the course is W.S.W., and S.W. by VV. 4 leagues. This island, already mentioned in page 16, is two miles from the shore, against the cove called Portugal Cove. Bell Island is bounded by cliffs, at one point nearly 300 feet high ; about 5 miles long and 3 broad. Near the S.E. end is Lance Cove, a small indentation of the cliff, which, with a beach, are the only landing places. It is very fertile, thus differing from the surrounding land. On the S.VV. side is the Bell, a perpendicular rock 100 feet high, divided fiom the island by a passage of 20 yards, passable for boats in calm weather. The vessels that fish there lie in the little cove on the south side of the island, which will contain five or six ships, according to the rate. From Cape St. Francis to the Island Bacalieu, or Bacalao, the bearing and distance are N.N.E. about 6 leagues. Bacalieu is an island 3 miles long, from north to south, and one mile and a half broad, and is almost inaccessible. Here boat-: were used to fish : abundance I ilion of Fort t is from St. »w Point to ; Spear, and TO TORBAY larbour) and oiiits, which di Viili ; the John's; the 1 Point ; tlie n the Sugar- iilh point of of Torbay is illy ride, the 'ove. Sliould lent betvveen t rock off it, no Torbay is eavvard ; for, ice to Black- ement of red 1 W. other • by W, ith the , where boats 1 salt the fish e places they ,vind be out; a good place anken rocks, ree-quarters. about three- e off shore ; fresh water ; cks. Its, when the lLIEU, ok IS W.S.W., miles from |cliffs, at one id is Lance places. It the Bell, a hds, passable le south side (distance are |ith, and one abundance CONCEPTION BAY. 21 I i of sea-birds, of several sorts, breed here in the summer. Between this island and the main is a channel about 2 miles broad, havinij a sufficient depth for ships. The liai/ Verde unA the S.W. end of Bacalieu lie E. by N. and W. by S. from each other, about a league and a half. Bay Verde. — From Cape St. Francis to the Day Verde Head, the bearing and distance are N. by E. about 5.J leagues ; and, from the head lo the bay, or cove, where ships ride, to the westward of the head, is about three-quarters of a mile. The roadstead is not above a cable's length in extent between the points, which lie N.N.E. and S.S.W. from each other; you lay your anchors in 10 fathoms, and your ship will lie in 5, with a cable out; the stern will then be not above half a cable's length from the stages. The ships that ride here, are forced lo seize their cables one to the other ; and there cannot be, at once, above seven or eight ships. It is a bad and hazardous place for ships, except in the summer time, but the great plenty offish make it desirous, although it is a wild, desert place, very deficient in wood, water, &c. Bay Verde, or Btnj of Herbs, as it is here called, may be readily known by the Island Hacalicu, and also by another head within Bacalieu, called Split Point; as well as by liay Verde Head itself, which is the westernmost; these three heads show very blutl, and very like each other, on coining from the southward : there is no danger in going into Bay Verde but what may be seen. From Bat/ Verde Head to Flumborou^h Head the bearing and distance are W.S.W. -\ W. four miles. Flamborougii-head is a black sleep point, but no place of shelter for a boat, unless when the wind comes from the shore; neither is there any safety between Hay Verde and Carboniere, (7 leagues S.W. i \V.,) excepting two places for boats, the one in the S.W. cove of the Green Baj/, which is but an indillerent place, and lies S.W. ^ VV. about t leagues from Bay Verde, and the other in Sulmuri Cove, whicli is about a league and a half northward of Carboniere. From Bay Verde Head to Green Bay is S.W. J W. about 4 leagues. This bay is about a league over, but has nothing remarkable in it, excepting the S.W. cove above mentioned, and a place at the bottom of the bay, to whicii formerly the Red Indians came every year, for the purpose of obtaining ochre. From the South point of Green Bay to Black-head is S.W. i W. a league ; and from Black-head to Salmon Cove, W.S.W. 4 miles. The latter is a ])lace of shelter for boats, an island lying in the middle ; a river runs up from the cove, which abounds with salmon. CARBONIERE. — From Salmon Cove to Carbonieue, the course is W.S.W. about 4 miles. The Island of Carboniere is at about a mile from the shore. Its south side is low. The harbour is very bold on both sides ; so is the island, between which and the main are rocks, just under water. This is a good place for ships to ride in, and for catching and curing offish. Here are good pasturage and cattle, affording milk and butter during the summer. Carboniere has declined, and therefore has, in parts, a forlorn and deserted air. There is very good anchorage, in clear ground, fair turning in or out, being more than half a mile broad, and 3 miles long ; the depth, 5 to 8 fathoms, and deeper water. To the northward of the point of Carboniere are two coves, in which planters live, and keep boats for fishing ; the northernmost of these, called ClowJi Cove, is fit for boats only, and is about 2 miles above Carboniere Harbour ; the other is called Crocker s Cove, and is close to the entrance of Carboniere Bay. The proper channel in to Carboniere is on the North side of the island, which lies off its southern point; the entrance here being more than a mile wide. Ships may, however, pass on the S.W.^side of the isle; but they must keep in mid-channel, because the ground is foul and shoal on each side, so as to form a narrow passage oidy. To the W.S.W. of Carboniere Island is a small cove, called Mosquito Cove : in this cove ships may ride, but it is seldom used, as it is not convenient for fishing ships, althou'rh the ground is clean, and it has sufficient depth of water, HARBOUR GRACE. — The entrance of Harbour Grace is a league to the southward of Carboniere Island. A rock, called the Salvage, stands nearly in the middle of the channel ; and there is another, called the Long Harry, near the North shore, having only a boat-passage between it and the main, lioth arc of great height above the water. Har- hour Grace is a pretty-looking lilde town, consisting of one long, straggling street, along 22 CONCEPTION' BAY'. i.4- I ,1 I,! ,1 :1 tlie north siilc of the harbour; tho houses hcinc; mostly pniiited whito, and standing on u narrow flat, with a rocky rid^e hehind thetn. The popuhition is ahout 3000.* Within the hay, a bar or Icd^e oxtonds from the South side, more than half way over, as shown in the particular plan of die Harbour. You mav turn into Harbour (Jiaco, all the bay over, from sid(! to side. The Salvas;e may be passed op. eitlier side, as most convenient : and, having; passed within this rock, you may turn !rom side to side, by the lead, till you draw toward the edt;e of the bank, then proceed by the North shore. You may kr w when you are near the bar, or ledge, by two whito rocks on the land, by the water-side, in a bank on the; North side, which show whiter tlian any other part : these arc about a mile below, or to the ca^twanl of, the beach, which is i)iopor to be known: by keeping ne-ir the North shore, you will find 3 fathoms and a half on the bar, and ])resenlly ahcr •!•, .'5, (3, and 7, fatlionis ; but if you stand over to the southward, till you have advanced within the bar, or ledge, you shall not have above 7, 8, or 9, fi et of water: this sand trends S.K. from athvvart the two white rocks above mentioned, and extends close up to the South shore. Ilavinn; passed its outer extremity, you may turn from side to side till within the beach, on the North side, and ride land-locked in 4, 5, or 6, fathoms, or higher up in 7, 0> 9, or 10, fathoms, as you please. Three islets, called II.iiuiour Grace Isj.anos, lie off the South point of the entrance of Harbour Grace, in an East and West direction. On one of these is a li;^hlhouse, perched on the brink of a precipice, consisting of a square wooden house, with a square dove-cot- looking top for a lantern. The island, a block of slate, is only accessible by ladders, and in smooth weather. No vessel should attempt a passage between them and the main, as the ground is foul and shoal, and there are rocks about the islets. J'Voffi Harbour Grace to Cape St. Francis, the bearing and distance arc E. i S., 6 leagues. Bryant Covr, to the southwartl of Ilarlx \ir Grace, is not a place for ships: it is, however, a good place for fish. Ii; the mid.ile of the entrance is a rock above water. You may pass it on either side, and have 4 or 5 fathoms, and then anchor within it in clean ground. Erom Harbour Grace to Spaniard Bay, the distance is about two leagues. This bay is deep and large, and tl jre is good anchoring all over it. It is divided from Buy Robert by a small neck of land only. Bay RoiiERT is about half a league broad. There is very good turning into it, and no danger but what may be seen. You may borrow on either side, and go close to the island which lies on the starboard side of the entrance. The bay is, at least, three miles long. IJeing past the island, or to the westward of it, which is bold-to, you may run up about a mile, and lie land-locked in 9 or 10 fathoms wiUiin the island. Erom the point of liay Robert to Port Grave, the distance is 3 miles. Port Grave is extensive, deep, and very bold, as the other bays are : there is a cove on die stai board side of the entrance, called Sheep Cove, where you may moor oy head and stern, and ride in 4i- and 5 fathoms ; but your anchor to the W.S.W. will be ni 22 fathoms, at about a cable and a quarter's length from the ship. Erom Sheep Cove to Port Grave, the distance is a mile, or rather more; but '^s do « In the month of December, 1820, H. M. sloop Favorite, Captain II. Robinson, visited Harbour Grace, when Lieut. It. Pcarce, of that vessel, made an accurate survey of the port. The town was then considerable, and of respectable appearance. Captain II. describes the harbour as good ; for, " though the space between the end of the bar and the north shore is ratlier narrow, u large ship, well handled, may beat through, or back and fill, in and out, with the tide." Port Grace is a remarkable basin, hollowed out in the cliffs by the action of frost, or the more certain operation of time, in destroying the slate-clay of which the rocks are composed. First an arch is entered, '10 feet wide by 20 high ; and beyond is the basin itself, which is about 300 feet in circumference, and surrounded by perpendicular rocks 120 feet in height, with a border of dwarf spruce at top. At one corner a little aperture, among broken masses of rock, carries off the super- fluous water ; the depth near the centre of the cavity is about 14 feet. v^ On the 18th of August, 1832, an awful and destructive fire broke out and destroyed 100 dwelling houses at this place, with the church, &c., when 600 persons, who in the morning were in comfort and opulence, were before night without shelter and food. I'or the particulars, sec ' Nautical Mapazinc,' Dec, 1832, pp. ()05, (i. H TlllXI'iV HAY. '23 ndiiig oil a way ovur, he Salva^o 1 lliis I'cick, r tliu bank, 1 tlie land, Dtlier part : roper to 1)V///.— From Ihigus to Collier Bay is S.S.W, two and a half or three miles. And from Collier Hay to Salmon Cove or Pool, the distance is nearly two miles and a hall. Ilurliour Main. — This is a t^ood place for fishing, but ships seldom go \\y> so high in the bay. rroin Ihirnt-head, of I'ort (Jr.ive, to ll;ul)our Muiii, the course and distance are S. by W. about three leagues; and from Harbour Main to llo/i/rood S. by E. about two miles; then the land trends aiioiit to the eastward toward Beil hie. Ilolyrood Harbour has W fathoms of water, and good ground. III.— TIUNITY HAY, &c. in twekm BACALIKU and CAPK BONAVISTA. TRINITY BAY. — This extensive Bay, between Bacalieu Island on the S.I-'. and Trinity Harbour on the N.W., is 7 leagues in breadth, and its tleptii, from the entrance, is 2i) leagues. Tlie south point of the entranCi., westward of Bacalieu island, is called the Point of (Jiiates. The next point within is lircak-lieurt Point. Between these points is a small bay, in which boats may lie with a wind from the land of BreaU-heart Point : there is a ledge of rocks, but they are above water. Prom Break-heart Point to Sherwick Point, going into Old Perlican, the course is S.W. by W. .')!j or G miles. To the southward of Break-heart Point is an islet, at soine little distance oliiiie shore, called Scurvj/ Island: between this Island and Sherwick Point, the coast falls in a pretty deep bay, and trends S.S.E. from Sherwick Point about three- quarters of a mile. Oil) Peui.icax. — Sherwick Point is bold; there is a rock off it, above water: this point is the north point of Old Perlican. They who are bound to Old Perlican, cannot go in with a shin to the northward of the island ; that is, between the island and Sherwick Point; altliough it seems a fair passage, yet it is altogether foul ground, and a shoal of rocks extends from the main to the island ; (which island is about a mile and a quarter round, and about half a mile in length ;) therefore, whoever intends for Old Perlican with a ship, must jjuss to the south of the island, between it and the main. Within it is an anchorage, in 4 or 5 fathoms. It is, however, to be observed that there is a rock just even with the water, and some under water, about the middle of the bay, within the island, or rather nearest to the main. Old Perlican has but an indilferent road : and, if the winds come out from N.W., you are forced to buoy the cables, from the badness of ground. The boats go a great way to catch fish, (about five or si.x miles) excepting in the very middle of summer. Sille Cove. — From Old Perlican to Sille Cove, the coast rounds to die Westward, S.\V., and S.S.W. , about six leagues. Sillc Cove is but an indifferent place for shijis, such as Bay \'erde, already described. New Perlican. — From Sillc Cove to New Perlican, the distance is a league. This is a very good harbour, where you may lie land-locked in 5, 6, 7, «, 9, or 10, fathoms. It is very bold and large going in, so that, if you can see the point before night, you may safely run in, there being nothing to hurt you but the shore itself. The easternmost point of the entrance, is cilled Smutty-nose Point, and the westernmost Gorlob Point ; the entrance between is more than a mile broad, and has about 20 fathoms of water. On sailing in, it will be found narrower and shallower, lying in first west, and terminating in a bi^ht, where you may lie land-locked, in a berth half a mile broad; so that you may turn in o° out, and anchor in what depth you please, fr )m 12, 10, 8, G, 5, or 4, fathoms, very good ground. S. by E. i E. f.oin New Perlican, distant 2^- miles, is Heart's Content, a fine spacious hirbour, nearly circular, and excellently sheltered from all winds; it is a thriving place. 24 TlilN'ITY MAUl'.orU. 1 1 III The coast hoars goncrnlly S. liy K. frarii llcnrl''* ( 'oiitent, ami consists n( a low sliorn oi hriulil r^'I •""' yfy slatt'. Twotiiy miles distant (iom Henri's (JonlfMit is \nv Hnrhtiurf a slioal place and diHicidt of onlranco. Almost all this oastt'in sidi; of Trinity Hay is irdiahitfid, Al tin.' In ad of llio l)ay is Dilihj llrtr/four, mid ft miles to the NV . uf tins is Cliaiiplr Ann, n small sotlltniotit. Nine miles N. by I'.. J K. is Ticlilii Ilarhonr Point, llio north nNtrrmity oT a tonuiic of land, forming' a rUep hay on its wcsiem side, at the liollom of wliic li is I'icklc liar/tour; it is a had ancliorirr^ place, N. hy I',, from this, ;) miles, is llie ciilrancf; of the liajf iif' Ihills, (llaie des noiiles) an inlei running; in the s;ui)e direction for () miles, when it. turns to the westward, and approaches Come hy Chance lidrt, at tin.' head of IMacontia Hay. 'I'lie islhmus formed hy these two arms connects the p( ninsula of Ava'on with the main part of the island. It is ahnnt .'i tnilrs hroad, and l.M) or 2()<> feet hiuh, slopin;.: toward Trinity Hay. To the cast of the istlmms is Centre llill, ahoiit toOO or I'JOO feet hi^jli. liawlnm Western Head lies (JJ loacues N. I',, ■] K. from the entrance of the H.iy of Mulls. It forms the eastern ontraiico to the tiuntli Went Arm, an inlet running parallel with Handom Sound, 4 loaguf;s in length. From New I'erlican, the distance over to Uandum Ilcoff, is .5 leagues. These places lie N. ] W. and S. } Iv from each other. In Unndom Sound aie several arms an)rth- ward of that, is a large cove, or arm, called (lot I'dvc, where the le is room enough for .101) or 400 sail of ships to ride, all in clear ground, protected from winds, sea, anil tide. In this place slii[)S lie unseen viiitil it appears open. There ate several other places in this excillent liaibour, in good elean giouiid. The bottom, in all tin; arms and coves of Trinity, is of louuli clay, with l and .') fathoms of water, within two boats' len'.,'lli from the slmre ; and there are (i, 7, H, 'J, 1(>, I'i, and 1 I- fathoms, and some places more, in the middle of the arms and clianneh. Vou may turn in or out, as already noticed, observing your tide, which rises about l feet, and sometimes more. From the llorsccliops to the South Head of CalaliiHt />(^/v, a di.stanf e of miles, the coast rounds to the N.K. About two milts to the iiorlhwaid of the llorsecliops is an indent, named (Irecn Baif, but it is no place for ships to ride or tisli in. Heing past (Jreen May, there is no place or cove for boats till you conit! to Hugged liaibour or to Catalina. From the Soutn Head of ("atalina May to the North Head, the beaiing and distance are N.W. by W. I W. [iV. II'. ()if A'.j. .'ii miles: between the two heads is Rugged Harbour and Catalina Harbour. The'Soulli Head is in latitude ■\H° 21' :i'6". Ili'ooF.D Il.\iiHOun is so called from the numeious rugged and craguy lotks wliicli lie before and within it, above and under water. They who proceed for this harbour with a ship, must pass to tlie northward of all the rocks or islets, and run to the northward till they bring the harbour opcii;|^heii sail in between a round island wliich lies close to the main, and a great black rock, which lies olf the noitli end of all the islets. There is a river of fresh water at the head of the harbour. CATALINA HAilMOUR.— One mile and a half to the norihwurd of Rugged Harbour is the Harbour of Catalina, which is very safe, with good ground, not above 8 fathoms, from 3 to 4, 5, G, 7, or 8 faUioms, as you please. You may, with a leading wind, sail between the small island, which is a little to the southward of the harbour, and have 4 or 5 fathoms at the least, in going through, but it is not above a cable's length broad ; or you may go without that island, to the eastward of it, giving the island a small berth, and so sail in with the middle of the harbour; for, at about half a mile distant from the south point of the harbour, to the east, is a reef, called the liramlijH, upon which, if there be ever so small a sea, it breaks; but you may sail between the island and the reef, or you may go to the northward of it, between the reef and the north shore. A rock, having over it but 9 or 10 feet or water, lies off the north shore of Catalina Harbour, at one-third of a mile within the Mrandys above mentioned ; but between the two is a depth of 10 fathoms, with a continued depth of 7 fathoms more than half a mile along the south shore. Within this, up the harbour, you may anchor in .5 fathoms, land-locked. You may likewise anchor in 3i fluhoms, to the southward of the little green island, at the entrance of Little Catalina, or the N.E, arm of the harbour; or you may run up toward the village or the river-bead, whence fresh water runs down. A kind of bore rises in this place very often, that will cause the water to rise three feet presently, and then down again ; and you may find it so two or three times in three or four hours, at certain seasons. It is a very good harbour, and abundance of the Iieib Alexander grows on the small island. Salmon abound at the head of the harbour. Near a small cove in the N.W. within the small island, is a fire-stone of a glittering colour, called Catalina stone, a species of iron pyrites ; excellent willocks grow on the rocks. From the North-head of Catalina Bay to Flower Point g>' i cliflF, trends N,E. J N. ^i miles. Off the point is a reef of sunken rocks, called Flower Q6 BOX A VISTA 15 A V Uoch ; over which the sea breaks during a swell, and they discover themselves plainly. They lie about half a mile off shore, and extend a mile true Kast. You may yo between Flower Point (which has some rucks lying about it) and the sunken rocks above de- scribed. A mark to go without thiin is, to keep tiie (iuU Island, ofl'Capo llonavista, open of all the land to the southward : this will lead clear without them to the eastward. Bird Islands. — From Flower Point to the two islets called Bird Islands, the distance northward is two miles. \\ ithin the Bird Islands is a bay, with one arm within the south point of the land, which runs up some distance to the west, where ships may ride : another arm, also, runs up within some rocks, which are above water. The bay extends to Cupt Lurjun, half a league farther north. Tiie l>ird Islands abound with willocks, gannets, pigeons, gulls, ifnC, which breed there in summer. From Flower Point to Cape Larjan, the bearing and distance are N.N.E. [iV. ■' If'.] [\% miles; (lie extremity of Cape Larjan is but a low point, oti' which lies a great rock above water. From Cape Larjan to Spiller's Point is N. by E. half a league ; between this cape and Spiller's Point the land falls into a bay. Over the point, between it and Cape Larjan, you will see the high land of Port Bonavista, from a considerable distance off at sea. Spiller's Point is moderately high, steep, and bold-to. [HI.-BONAVISTA HAY between CAPE BONAVISTA and CAPE FREELS. From Spiller's Point to Cape Bonavista, the course is North 2i miles; between is a bay, apparently deep, which persons unacquainted with would suppose to be tlie harbour of Bonavista. Cai'l iioNAViSTA is in latitude 48° 42' 10'. The head of it appears at a distance of a sky-colour. At about half a mile N.N.E. from the cape is a small islet called Gnll Island, easy to be known, being moderately iiigh, but highest in the middle, and makes somewhat like the form of a Fleur-de-lis, or a hat wiUi great brims ; you may see it 4 or .5 leagues off in clear weather; near inhere is from 4 to d fathoms water. To the S.S.W. about 310 yards off is a danger which does not show. AtN.N.l-',. i !•'. 3.^ miles frotn (lull Island lies a rock, which bears the name of Old Harri/, and has only 13 feet of water upon it. The sea breaks over this spot, unless when the water is very smooth. To the N.E. from t!ie Old Harry, within an extent of nearly three miles, are several dangerous spots, wilii from 3 to 4 fathoms : the outer or northern edge of these is called Young Hurry. Vessels when passing, in order to avoid these rocks, must be careful to keep Cape Bonavista open with the westernmnst extremity of a high range of land to the southward, named the Green or Inner Ridi^e. These dangers, together with the long ledge called the Flower Rocks, near Flower Point, above- mentioned, render it very imprudent to attempt making Cape Bonavista in diick or bois- terous weather; and, indeed, at any time, Baealieu Island, between tlie entrances of (/onception and Trinity Bays, is the best and safest land-lall for a stranger bound to any part of Bonavista Bay. There is a channel between Gull Island and Cape Bonavista ; it is nearly half a mile wide, with a good depth ; but it is to be observed, that, in rounding the cape, you may not stand in close, .is there is a sunken rock about 300 yards S.S.W. from die Cuil Island, and another, on the opposite side within die cape, upwards of '200 yards to the N.E. of the land of Green Island, which will be presently noticed. Each has less than 3 fathoms of water. Green Island is an isle half a mile in length, lying nearly parallel with the western side of Cape Bonavista. The passage between admits small vessels only, being narro.v, and some spots have shoal rocks. At a mile and a ([uarter to the westward of Green Island is a small islet called Stone Island, with a reef on its eastern side, but the general depths between are from 8 to Iti fathoms. At a mile to the southward of Green Island is a reef called the Red Itochs, lying off Red Cove, which is terminated by Western Head. In succession after this, between it and the port of Bcnavista, are Red Point, Moses Point, and Sweriy Head ; the two last, with their surrounding rocks, marking the north side of Bonavista Harbour. From Cape Bonavista to Port Bonavista, the courses are south-westward, about four miles. If you come from the southward, and intend for Bonavista, you must leave Green i Ives plainly, go between i above de- avista, open arcl. tlie distance lin tlie south de : ariDtlier tids to Copt ks, garinets, . [A^ ^ If'.] . great rock lis cape and '.ipe Larjan, e off at sea. rUEKLS. between is a I the harbour ;i distance of called Gull , and makes y see it 4 or the S.S.W. ame of Old spot, unless in extent of llie outer or er to avoid St extremity iliie. These oint, above- ick or bois- iiiliatices of iMid to any half a mile e, you may >ull Island, the N.K. of 3 fathoms western side larro.v, and reen Island eral dcjjths '•S b''"rt off between it he two last, about four eave Green I I I'.ONAVISTA r.AV 57 )♦ Island on vour larboard side. You may siil between Green Island and Stone Island, with any ship, witliout danger, tiie channel beint^- safe and bold ; or, you may u" to tiie westward of Stone Island, and run to the southward till you open the harbour of IJona- vista, and are past Mo'^ca Point, and so to the southward of the rocks calbnl the Sircrri/s, which are hiuh rocks, having no passage to the northward of them. Here you may anchor, in from 1 1 to 5 fathoms, as you please, but must always have a good anchor in the S.W, and another fast in the Swerrys, or in the N.W., for westerly winds blow directly into the road. With small vessels you may go betwreen (Jrcen Island and the main, and so to Redhead ; i)Ut the bay between the points (over against (ireen Island) and Redhead is all loul ground. At a little distance, or about a ral)!e's leniith from the shore, is a sunken rock, but bor.ts m.iy go between the shore and it. The s( a breaks on it. Being |iast NVestcrti or Red-head, the course to Moses Point is W.S.VV. ; betwren is a larze bay or cove called Hayley's Cove, where you may anchor on occasion, not advancing too far in, as all its siicre is rocky and shoal. Capt. Bullock, one of the surveyors of Bonavista Bay, &c. has said of 1{on,\vista II \|{- BOin, that it is an anchorage of little or no consideralion, further than being a ven eligible situation for carrying on the fisherv ; being so very badly sheltered that, m N.W . gales, immediately following a continuance of heavy winds from seaward, the water breaks right atliwart the harbour, and sometimes the whole of the fishing-boats founder at their anchors, and not unfrerpiently many of their stages are desttoyed : however, vessels during the summer months, moor under the Swerry Head, in 8 or 10 fathoms ; but, even there, as in every other part of the harbour, the ground is so rocky and uneven, that they are neces- sitated to buoy up their cables. Bonavista is a large and straggling, but pretty-looking place, with a good deal of cultivated ground about it, which is more fertile than the neigh- bourhood of St. .lohii's, but the want df a good harbour prevents its becoming one of the most thriving places in the whole i'-Iand. 30NAVZSTA SAY. — This extensive Hay is limited by Cape Bonavista on the south, and by (':ipe Kreels on the north. The bearing and distance from the one to the other is N. :; K. [A'.iV. 11'.], 11 miles. The position of Cape Bonavista is, hit. 43^ 42', long. .52° t'.)' : that of Cape I'reels, lat. 49" 15' .'30% long. J3° 26' 8". The whole coast between is tortUDUs or much it)denlcd, rocky, difficult, and danuerous: on the south, the land is high and niountanioi:s, and the coast steep und iron-bound : on the noith side it is low and marshy, and from the shore the water is shoal to a considerable distance, abounds with sii;;dl islands, and is encompassed with dangers on every side. The harbours in Bonavista Bay are numerous, and safe when once gained ; but they are, in gener.d, so deeply embayed, the land is so diversitied, and the passages so intricate, that their navigation is seldom attempted, unless by those who, from long experience, have a perfect knowledge of the coa^t : yet, should it become necessary, from stress of weather, or other circumstance, for a siranuer to seek shelter, the places recommended fortius [)iir|)osc are, 7>V//?7*u' and iirent Clunicc Uarbmirs, in the S.W . part of the Bay; New Harbour and Cat Cove on the N.W.* These places are described hereafter. Br.ACKiir.AD \\\\.— Blurl; Ihml is 2; miles S. by W. [,S./r. | U'.'\ from the Harbour of Bonavista, and Soullicrn Haul is S miles N.W. by \V. \ \V. [//V.v^J from Black Head. Tiie latter are the two extremities of lUuckhritd Bui/, which is two leagues in depth. On the S.W . side of this bay, at nearly a league and a half to the southward of Southern Head ate the fishing establishments on King's Cove; but this is even a less desirable place ot shelter than Boiia\ista, lying t of Chance or (ndl Rock, is Deer Island, which is 1] mile long and 300 yards broad : between it and the shore tiiere is a good channel with fathoms water in it. The route from Deer Island to Connectiu!:^ I'oint, is S.S.W. \_S.W. by //'.] distance 7 miles, and between these there is no danger. Connecting Point divides Chandler s Reach mto two arms, one named Clode Sound, the other (iuvse Bay. Goose Bay. — From Connecting Point, (joose Bay runs S.W. by W. to the distance of 6^ miles; by keeping the middle of the cliannel, all dangers will be avoided, as they lie near the shore, Snd the depths will be from 40, 40, and 3o fathoms, until to the west of Lubher^s Hole, when tie depth will vary from 13, 12, 10, and 8 fathoms. After passing (loose Head, when a small island called Shoi^ Island, is seen, steer so as to keep the middle of the channel wliich divides it from Goose Head, and then anchor to the S.E. in 4^ to G fathoms. This bay is very convenient for procuring wood and water. Clooe SorM>.— When two miles from Connecting Point, a vessel can also proceed W. \ N. to Clode iSound, where there are two good anchorages, Loufj Cove and Love Cove. The entrance of the first, 7.^ miles from (,'onnecting Point, is formed by Dividiuif Head ; the anchorage here is in 4.^ to 6i fathoms. The second is 3 miles W. by S. from Dividing Head : it is not very deep, but a mile wide in the opening; the depth of water is 4,J to 10 fathoms. Clode Sound is frequented for the timber which is found at the head of it. Long Islands. — These islands are four in number: the channels between them are nairow, and ought not to be tried without some knowledge of them. The easternmost of iliem is 6 miles from Goose Head, and its south point bears W. \_S.IF. by \\\ -J- fT.] from II. The islands have some covered rocks on the north side, but the most distant is not more than 600 yards from the land. Newman's Solmi is an arm of the sea, 11 miles in length ; Swale Inland, which forms the larboard entrance, is 24 miles from Cape Ponavista, m a W.by N. ^ N. [ IV. by S.\ direction, and 10 miles from Wtstern Head. This island divides the entrance into two passages, one to the south called Swale Tickle, the other Nexcmun\s Sound ; the first very dirticult, and therefore ought not to be used ; the second leads to Sandy CovCy Great and Little Happy Adventure, and lastly North Broad Cove. Sandy Covk is situated to the N. by W. li mile from the N.E. point of Swale Island; it is a very good anchorage, and is veiy easily known by its sandy beacli, 'iie only one on this side of the Sound ; there is no danger in the route which leads to it, and the anchor- age is in 14 to 4i fathoms. To the east of the entrance of this port, at one mile distance, and to the noith of Swale Island, is the Half-way Kock, which is very steep, and at the foot of which is '3\ fathoms ; it forms, with the coast, a channel in which there is plenty of water, but being very narrow, it is but little frequented. Griat and Littlk Happy ADVENTt;RE, at a mile westward from Sandy Cove, are two snug little coves, on the same side of the Bay ; but, from the narrowness of their entrances, tiiey are adapted only for the resort of small vessels : between these places lies a sunken r^•ck about 80 yards from the shore, with only 4 feet of water upon it. The passage iiitr) (treat Happy Adventure is to the N. of Sydney Island. ^ J nONAVISTA HAY. 29 ifest way is, W., comes u in;iy steer :er until you 1 only 6 feet ^tard-howls ; vvl with the he shore on 1 from 11 to • may easily rbour,) is a ;s from sea- name: It IS crs Head, is 1] mile long li 9 fathoms I distance 7 (Hers Reach e distance of I, as they lie the west of ^fter passing to keep the the S.E. in ilso proceed Love. Cove. dinti Head ; m Dividing er is 4.i to ead of it. n them are ernmost of JV.] from tant IS not ivhich forms into two 'i ; the first 7otJtf, Great X ale Island ; nly one on ihe anchor- e distance, and at the s plenty of \e, are two entrances, a sunken Issage into h North Broad Cove. — The entrance to this cove lies to the W.N.W. one mile from Harbour Head; it is a very commodious harbour; the anchorage is good, 'and is easily known by the direction which it takes to the West, and by Kluck Duck Island, which is 10 the South of the larboard side of the entrance, at the distance of half a mile. In coming from tiic east to this anchorage, after passing Harbour Head, steer for Black Duck island, for li mile, to avoid a sunken rock at 300 yards from the siiore ; tiien proceed N. i W. or else N. by W. i W. in order to pass to the North or South of a danger which hes in the midille of North Iboad ( 'ove, and which does not show. The north shore is clear, the south less so, but all danger is avoided by keeping 250 yards distant from it. U hen at the end, there is anchorage in less th;m 22 fathoms, muddy bottom. More to the \N'est on the noith shore, there are several dangerous rocks, the outermost being half a mile fri)ni the land. Wood and water may be procured here. Soi'TH BitOAO CovF,. — There is another harbour on the south side of Newman's Sound called Sout/i Hroad Cove, 3 miles distant frmn the North Cove, and lying S.N\ .by W. ,\ \\ . [>'. ir. />// S-l from Black Duck Island. There is at its entrance a small island wliicii is clear except on its western side, where there is a danger close to it. To enter it, steer so .'IS to leave tl;e island to the larboard, and when in mid-channel between it and the west side of the entrance, bear away to the anchorage which is toward the end, and between 10 and I 1 fathoms depth. To the West of South Broad Cove, and W..'^i.W. from Minchhi's Point, is Miiic/iins Cove, to anchor in which, keep along shore from the point till you have from 9 to 6 fathoms. fUuHow Harhoiu. — The island called the Little Denier, \\h'\c\\ lies off the entrance of Harrow Harbour, is situate in latitude 48° 41', and long. .5;}° 31'. The harbour, which lies south-westward of it, is safe and convenient : it is formed by three islands, llicliard, (loodwin, and Keat ; the entrance is about 500 yards wide, and not very diflicult of access; the harbour is a mile long ; the lower part is rocky, and not well sheltered ; but the upper ])art is completely land-locked, and has good iiolding-ground. The course to this place, from lionavista' (nill Island, is N.W. by W.J W., 2'i miles. On approaching Little Denier, you must be careful to avoid the Outer Rock, lying thvee-quarters of a mile K. -J N. from that island. It has only 4 feet of water on it ; but -. ■ die sea constantly breaks, it is easily guarded against. Between Little Denier and ! hard's Island, there is also a range of rocks, called the Brandishes, at distances from M other, antl extending neaiiy half way over toward Little Denier, with from 14 tn 17 feet upon them : between are channels of 7 and 8 fathoms. These make the northern channel preferable for strantjers without a pilot. To run clear of the Brandishes, you must keep B W/i.'t' i^oiw^ (the projection within the harbour,) a little open to the south- ward of Smokj/ Ridge, (a range of high land at the top of the harbour,) until you bring Hroom Head, N. by E. } E., on witli the middle Shag Island ; the passage is then witii- out obstruction till you near Wedge Point, off which, at 70 yards, lies a sunken rock, with 8 feet of water: you may then sail u|) abreast Pudner's Cove, until you are entirely shut in (iom the sea, and anchor in from 10 to 18 fathoms. There is a small fishing establish- ment here; good water in Pudner's Cove, and abundance of fire-wood.* The land about Harrow Harbour is higher than the neighbouring coast, and may be easily recognized by Its projection. Cow Head, which lies S.W. by W. -J- W. ( West) from Cape Bonavista, forms the Eastern point of Saluoge Ray, which is about 4 miles in length, and contains several fresii-water streams, but does not offer any shelter. Damna HAiuiot'R, (vulgo Dduinablc.) The little island called Ship Island, lies in latitude 48° 45i', long. 53" 34', and at 8 leagues N.W. }. W. [!r. ^ N.] from Cape lionavista; and Damna Harbour lies W. J S. six miles from Ship Island. The island may be known bv a remarkable bald tioint like a sugar loaf. The harbour is we e(J is well adapt for sniidl vessels, but its very narrow entrance discpialifies it for ships of burthen : there a rock off the southern part of the entrance, and another off the northern side of the island which lies in the middle of the harbour ; there is good anchorage all round the island, in 4 to 5 fathoms; sandy bottom: water may be easily procured, but very little wood. Moiiuis CovK is a safe anchorage, situated on the North side of the island bearing that name, which lies to the northward of Damna : in sailing for it keep Ship Island well on J * All the wood on ilic i'oa>t-side is very diminutive, but it is, generally, much larger inland. 30 HON' A VISTA liAV, &C. t J ii board; as you will ilius avoid the reef called llie S/iip JvmAx, which lies to the northward. Having got inside Ship Island, avoid shutting in Lackington liock with Varket Island, (known by its forminir <^vo remarkable hummocks,) as there are several clusters of rocks between Ship and the liorsechop Islands, on the South side: steer for the X'arket until ynii yet abreast of Lackinnlon Kock, then koe|) Lackinuton Rock on'ilie northern extremity of Ship Island untd the V'.irket bears North, to clear two sunken rocks oHlhe N.E. end of Morris Island : you may then sail directly for the (Jove, wl^ich you can enter without fearing obstruction, and anchor in any part of it, in 2.') to /> fathoms, but the western side of the Cove is preferable. Wood plentiful ; water scarce in the summer season. To the N. and N.K. of Mortis Island, there is a great number of islands, surrounded by rocks ; the principal of which are Willis, Cnltel, and Pit-Sninul Islands, but they oiW-r no anchorages, except some coves which are only frequented by the bo;its which cruise in these parts.* Trorn Ship Island, at the distance of 9 miles in the direction of K. by N. ' X. [jV./J. i A'.J is Malonc's I.edfre, and from the same point, E. by N. ii N. [N.E. '} A'.] 10 miles, the rocks of the same name. These dangers also lie N.N.W. ] \V. [iV. H'. Iii/ H'.] 20 miles from Cape lionavista. On Malone's Ledge there is 4 fathoms water. The Snntfi Jirown Hocks lie N.N.IC. :| K. [A'o;-//;] 4 iniles from Malone's Rock. I'"ive miles N.N. 10. ,1 !•:. [iV. I IF,'] from Malone's Rock, are Snntit Brown Rocks ; Muhlle Rock lies N.N.E. [N. ^ M .] 3 miles distant, and S.E. by E. \ E, [£'as7] is a rock called Kaxtern Rock. These rocks are the outermost of those that extend from Ship Island to OH'er or Outer Gooseberry Island. VARIiLTZON. — It may not be unworthy of remark, that the polarity of the Needle is subject to several localities in different parts of Ronavista B.iy, becomin<> gradually less as you get embayed ; and this derangement is supposed to arise from the land's being impregnated with a mineral substance. At the Ciipes, wiiich form the Bay, the variation of the com|)ass was ;)U" 28' ; at Harrow Harbour 28° 30'; and at Great Happy Adventure not more than 28°, in tiie year 181(j. GOOSEBERRY ISLES, &c.— The Gooseberry Islands arc a cluster of islets, near the middle of Bonavista Bay. The (Jfler or Outer Gooseberry is in latitude 48^^ 58;J', longitude 53° 27'. Erom Cape Bonavista, to sail clear of the Eastern Rock, which lies at a mile and a half to the E.S.i']. of the Oilier Gooseberry Island, the course ii N. by W. ^ VV. and froin thence to (,'opper Island, (at the mouth of Greenspond Tickle) N. | E. Here it is possible to obtain pilots for this and the adjacent anchorages, which are XoriTH- WEST-AuM, Nkw llAiiiioi'R, and Cat Cove; there is al.so good holding ground between Greenspond Island and the main ; but, the water is so deep, that a vessel is liable to drift on shore in tlie act of weighing, nor is there sufficient room to veer to a lengthened cable in heavy gales from the S.W., to wiiich i|uarter it is much exposed. f Shm'S coMixo IN FROM THE Eastw.^rd, to i-Qmici Copc Fvecls, have to avoid the Charge Rock, which lies S.E. J S. 2:\ miles from Cape Freels' Gull Island ; the rock has only U feet of water upon it, and is circumscribed by a large spot of rough fishing-ground, having from 8 to .30 fathoms; from the Gull Island you may run immediately southward for the Stinking Islands, taking care not to open Capi' Frf.fls to the eastward of the Gull; this will carry you inside the danger; keeping a good look for the iMid-rocks, which' • Mr. Jukes, in liis Excursions in Newfoundland, (London, 1812) vol. ii. p. 91, describes the singular nature of sonic parts of tliis archipelago, "in the passage between Trinity, or Lewis's Island, (to the N.U. of Pit-Sound Llaiid) and the Frying-pan, the bottom of the sea consisted of luige peaks and mounds of this while ^'raiiitc, risinj^ from the deep and dark hollows. The fextreinc cle.irness of the water rendered these cliffs and peaks all visible as we approached them, though none reached to within three or four fathoms of the surface; and tlie sensation experienced in sailing over them was most singular, and to nie very unconifortalde. I could not look over the boat without extreme giddiness, as if suspended on some aerial hei(,'ht, leaning over a tremendous gulf The same sensation was described to me by a gentleman I afterwards met with, an experienced hunter and sailor, as assailiufj him upon his once, in smooth water, taking a ''uat within the space of some sunken rocks off the Wadhani Islands, on which the water broke in id weather. These rocks he described as three peaks, ri>in}j from an apparently untathomable depth ; and the sensation, as his boat gently rose and fell between them, was so unpleasant, and indeed awful, that he gladly got away as fast as he could." f The course to Uarrow Harbour, from the eastern Gooseberry Rock, is S.SV, ] W. 18 miles; steering from the latter place to Barrow Harbour yon have to avoid Ma/tmc\f Lcdirr, n shoal lying S. I W. one mile from the rock (above wjiter) which bears the same name; it has never less than 4 fathoms, so that, in fine weather, no danger is to be apprehended. i *.' r,0\AVISTA UAV, lS:c noTtliwanl. rket Ishnd, Ts of rocks ,'arkct until rii pxtremily N.E. end of Iter witliout vffstein yido I. rroundod by liey offer no cli cruise in . hy N-i N. N.E. } A'.l iw'.b!, ir.] The Sniiff' liles N.N.lv lies N.N.E. litem Hock. for or Outer )f tlie Needle radiially less land's being the variation )y Adventure ;lets, near the le 4«^ 5Bi', which lies at i N. by VV. kle) N. i E. are Nouth- nid between able to drift [iliened cable Ito avoid the Ihe rock has fiing-;;round, southward [ward of the Irocks, which I describes the , or Lewis's consisted of I The extreme lliougli none In sailinf; over Iboat without ^s gulf. Tlie 3nc('d lunifer l)ace of some lese rocks he lution, its 1)1$ \e gladly got '. IS miles; slioal lyint: less than 4 *.' are just above water, and lie two miles to the N.E. by E. ,', E. of the Stinking Islands ; but a vessel, not bound up the Hay, is enjoined to keep well outside; for should the weather become suddenly thick and fo^"j;y (which is not unfrerpient with an ea-terly wind) she runs a great risk of uetliui: bewildered atnong the innumerable rocks for whicli this part of the coast is remarkable, and from which neither chart nor compass can direct the stranger. At three-quarters of a mile N.N\'. from this CJull Island is a rock witli .'{ f.ithom-^of water upon it. In the winter months, when the north-eastt'rly uales are very heavy and continuous, the sea breaks exceediiiyly high over several spots of the Stinking [ian1t Is/ands to touch each other: you will be then two miles outside the Three liockx, which lie at u mile and a half to the southward of Flower's Islands. The outer of the Three Rocks has on it 3 fathoms of water, the middle It feet, and the inner only 11 feet. Now alter the course to W. ; S. keeping the white face of Chalky Hills, in Locker Reach, a little on the starboard bow, which will carry you clear of Copper Island dangers lying without Shoe Cove Point: should the roughness of the weather ])revent your getting a ])iIot on board thereabout, continue on this course until you bring Shoe Cove Point (which may be distinguished from its bearing a semblance to white marble) to bear N.W. 5 W. : then siiape your course for Indian Bay W.N.W. NKW IIARBOCR is two miles to the westward of Shoe Cove Point. Wiih easterly winds it is rpiite inaccessible, from its narrow entrance: in which case you must continue onward for Cut Cove, lying four miles farther up the Bay on the same side. The Cove is formeAV 01- NoriiE Damk and AKcniPrxAOO or Exi'i-ons. CAPE Fill: ELS is formed of three points, Soutk Bill, Cape Freels or Middle Bill, and North Bill ; it is lined with veiy dangerous rocks and shoals, and therefore, it is neces- sary to give it a wide berth. To the W. of the point of Cape Freels is a tolerably high hill called the Cape Ridge ; its position is lat. 49° 15' 30" N., and long. 53° 26' 8" NV. Gull Island lies S.E. \ S. 2i miles from Cape Freels: it is clear, although at nearly a mile N. by W. from its western point there is a rock called Gull Island Rock. Funk Island lies N.E. by E. 31 miles from Cape Freels ; it is a low and sterile rock, 100 fathoms long from E. to W. and cannot be seen more than 10 miles off, but is easily known from the great quantity of sea birds constantly hovering over it. It is in latitude 49° 44' 15" and longitude 53" T. At GO fathoms to the northward of it, is a sunken rock of 10 feet, on vvtiich the sea generally breaks, and more to the westward are two islets, called the Island Rocks, with a clear passage between them, 70 fathoms in breadth. BuENTON Rock, between Funk Isle and the VVadham Isles; a dangerous rock was discovered on the 28th of September, 1836, during a gale and a very heavy sea, by Capt. FLvan Percy, in the brig St. John, on the autumnal circuit with the Hon, Judge Uienton. Heavy breakers were distinctly seen upon a ruck bearing W. \ S. a little southerly, about 7 miles from Funk Island. The bearing was taken in a fine clear evening, and it was the opinion of all on board, that the rock, though not appearing above water, would take up any vessel. The position is about lat, 49" 41', long. 53° 15'. At 7 miles N. by VV. .} W. [N. W. | IF.] from Funk Island, it is said that a rock exists, but it was carefully sought for by Capt. F. Hullock, and was not found by him. There is a shoal, discovered in 1841, called the Cleopatra Shoal ; its position is doubtful, but it lies N.W. by W. i \V. [/f.] about 20 miles from Funk Island, and at 11^ miles E. by S. \_E. by N. a JV.] from Fogo Head. Snap Hock, or Durell's Ledge.— Al \he distance of 22^ miles N.W. by N. [N.W. by IF. J 11',] from Funk Island is the Snap Rock. It is in latitude 49° 54' N. and longitude 53" 37' 43" ; the sea continually breaks on it, at least in moderate weather, and there is but 10 feet water over it. At one mile E. by N. from it there is from 52 to 40 fathoms, and to the S. by E. 2 miles, 62 to 63 fathoms. Cat Island lies N.N.W. \ W. 6 miles from Cape I'reels ; it is connected with the land by a tongue of sand covered by the sea. It is an excellent place for the fishery, and in summer is crowded, though in winter nearly deserted. Before arriving on the meridian of this island there will be seen on the coast to the south, a remarkable hill, called the Windmill. In coming from Cape Freels, care must be taken not to approach the coast too nearly. The soundings off Windmill Mount, at 3 or 4 miles, in the direction of the VVadham Islands, are from 26 to 27 fathoms, bottom of large stones or gravel ; and oii CAPi: FUELI.S TO CAl'F. ST. JOHN'. 33 ater exceeds bour Hocks, )il()t. Ships .ted, and the it cnnnot be westward of Ruck, which on it : when ger. (ireeiis- e idliahitunts inland, three tlie bearing I bear about from riower 8 feet water ; the Stinlxiiii^ etn ; there is the Stinkini; eels ; on tliis , INCLVDINO idle Bill, and ?, it is neces- olerably high 3° 26' 8" W. ;l] at nearly a i sterile rock, lut is easily in latitude IS a sunken ue two islets, adth. »us rock was ivy sea, by lion. Judge 1 y. a little a fine clear ot appearing 53° 15'. that a rock und by him. is doubtful, at 114 miles ■ong y N. [N.W. 54' N. and ate weather, oin 52 to 40 Ited with t!io fishery, and |the meridian 1, called the |ch the coast [ction of the |vel ; and on ncaring Penguin Island, the depth will not be more than 22 to 24 fathoms, with pebbles; and then in proceeding to Peckford Ishnd, the depth will be from '2i to 27 fathoms. Df.adman's or TniiPASsKs May. — Headman's Bay is formed on theS.lv by Cat Island, and on the N.W. by Dendmaii's Point; th'3 soundings between thom are from to 10 fathoms, the ureatest de|itli bem^; near the point. It is partly sandy and very clean, but of little iinporlaiice, as it dues not offer any shelter against winds north of W.N.NV . and E.S.E. Afier passing Deadman's Point, to N. J W. at the distance of 4^ miles from the point, are the two Penguin Istnnds. There is a pas«ai:e between them and the land, but to the ^\' . of the largest, there are several dangers, which render the diannel narrow and dithcult, and it therefore, ought not to be attempted without a pilot. Tlie coast in this part is low and sandy. Hacgkd Harbour is 3 miles N.W. | W. from the larger Penguin Island, and is open to the N.K. without shelter. The passage to it between the Penguin Islands and the W adhain Islands abounds with rocks and shoals. WADIIAM ISLANDS. — These i>lands are seven in number, arid form several channels between them, the widest of which is about l.J mile broad. The lar;;pst of the islands is I'echford I sin nil, which is one mile long from N. to S. ; it lies 21 miles K. by N. 4 N. [N E. 5 iV.] fioiu Cape Freels. The easternmost, an' dso the most to the N. is cal ed Ojf'ir llaiiliam. The position of the centre of the island is lititude 19" '.ib' 3U" N., longitude 31° 40' 13" W. One mile and thiee-quaiteis to the F..S.F-. of this last island, is the E.S.E. Ground, a shoal on wiiich there is but 10 feet water. To the S.S.W. lies the .,S..S'. If. Hock; and between these two reefs, and nearly a mile S. by W. fVom Ofl'er W adhain, there is a rock called Ttiui C'ihi's liink. As beft)re slated, to the S. of Peckford Islaml, tiieie is, between it and the coast of Newfoundland, siveral reefs and shoals, which render this passage very d.fbcult: the best i)assage, if it is necessary to traverse these islands, is between H'liite Island and Duck Island, or i.ither between this last and d'ppcr l.slnnd, in mid-channel. White Isl.ind is the only one which is quite clear all aioiind ; it may be approached with safety. On the W aiiiiam Islands, the sea-fowl called Mother Curi/s Chicken, breed in vast numbcis. These buds make holes in the qround, in which they lay their egys ; generally consisting of three or four. TliC month of the hole is invariably just large enough to admit one bird at a time, and the stench proceeding from it is very offensive. K^ss may be obtained ; but the operation of collecting them is so disgusting that, unless in c.se of great necessity, they are not worth the trouble and pain which they co.it. Rocky Fishing Gkoino. — To the N.W. of Copper Island, at the distance of 2 miles, is a bank called the Rocky Fishing (ironnd, on which theie is from 15 to 28 fathoms depUi of water; ai.d aiound it, the depth is between 32 and 44 fathoms. It is 'J.^ miles long, and half a mile broad ; and it extends in a W.by N. and E. by S. direction ; its western extiemiiy lies precisely south (true) from the mount on Cape Fogo, 3 miles off. Rocky Hay. — At the distance of lOJ miles W.5?.\V. from Copper Island, is Rocky VoinI, situate in latitude 49^ 25' 15'', longitufle 54" 4' 45", forming the entrance of Rocky Biy, which is >hut in by thiee islands, White Island, Ureen hlnnd, and !\'og<'in l.slnnd, the passages between which are quite dean. Between Rocky Point and W lute Island, there is from 8 to 7i fathoms; between White Islaml and ife |)onit to the S of it, 3,^ fathoms; between White and Green Islands, from 3.^ to 11 fathoms; between Green and Noguin Islands, (3 fithoms ; and lastly, between Noggin Island and the W. point, 14 to If) falhoms. To llie S. of the.se last two isles, that is, between them ami the bay, the depth is generally from 5 to 8 lathoms. At the bottom of Rocky Bay, are three cov(-s, but they are so rocky, that vessels cannot anchor in them, unless it is in that to the S. of Niigi;in Island, which is rather belter than the others ; but this ought nut to be used but in passing. FOGO ISLAND.— Cai'f. Fogo, the western extremity of the island, lies N.N.W. J W., 9j miles from the Oiler Wadliam Island, of which we have given the position. Fo'tq Island is ISJ miles in its greatest length from E. by N. to W. by S. The northern side of the island is very hire and rocky, witli lofty headlands rising perpendicularly from the sea. It has seveial haibours, which are, on the Nortli, S!i(nil Vxti/ and I'ogo llnrbuur ; on the West, //!, f : U" 36 THi; FASTFHX COAST AND WHITF. BAY, Vr—The EASTKRN COAST and WIIITK RAY, from Cape St. John to Oapf, Normw. CAl'F', ST. JOHN is in Int. 40'" ST 30" N. and lonjr. .W 22' 5j" W. It lies S. by E. i K. f.S'. K. i E.] :U) miles, from T()iiliiii,Miet Island, and is liiuh and steep. It is the soulliern limit of the French fishery on the eastern coast of Newfoundland. At 41 miles K.N.F.. from Cape St. .ff)I\n is (ht/l hlotui, \^\mh is (|uite .safe all around ; the depth between it and the cou!>t varies between .'i9 mid 64 falhums ; at a mile to the east there is 82 fathoms. La Sc'ic Harbour is the most s.>uthern port occupied by the Frcncli fisliers. From Cape St. .folin, hither, bear north lor 'l\ miles to dmible the point called ^orth Hi//, then N.W. by W. .1 \V. li mile, and then \V. ] S. [.S.IF. /-// IF.] for 3i miles, to clear to the iiortliward of I'aint L'ir/ieiiais, which is tliit on the left of the entrance of the harbour. Tlu! whole of the c .,ist is safe, and can be, if the wind will permit, kept close the wholo distance, l^a Scie Harbour is exposed to northerly winds, which cause a heavy sea. The anchorage is in from H to :<.J fathoms ; it is not very ^joo oldin;; ground, and chain cables are neces>'ary. The fl^herv in this pert fluctuates ; it is sometimes so considerable as to nearly enuross the entire fishery, and sometimf>s the fish is not found in abundance. To the N.W. by VV. | \V. of I'oiiif Lachcnais, 3^ miles distant, is a shod, lyincf nearly half a mile north of Cupr Ihtnt, which is very lemarkable from a hi^h mountain; the sea breaks over this bank :it all limes, and pariioul.irly on the uncovered rock, ('ajie Hreiit forms the entrance of Cufifusinn H«v, in which is llnr/ionr liound ; to make which, on leaving Cape Brent, beir S.W . J W. [.S. l/y IT. \ //'.] 3 miles. The entrance to the port is narrow, but without danj.;er ; there is never a heavy sea, and if it is wislied, you can •nnchor outside the port, in the first cove, in a depth of 9 or 10| fathoms, iijod ground. The anchoracie wiilnn the port is at the end, on the left hand, and within a rock which lies nearly in the centie of tliu harbour. In either case it will be necessary to moor both fore and aft. It is an excellent place to put into, when the wind blows too stronj^ fioin the N.\V. (piarter to enter I'acquel Harbour, or, when lyinp on the coast, bad weatln-r is ex- pected. Care is necessary, on account of the sniallness of this harbour, to have the anchors ready for moorioj^, and to shorten sail in good time. If the first bay is anchored in, the larboard anchor ought to be dropped at soon as you have doubled ti.e starboaid point, and cany the staiboard anchor towards the point of the inner entrance, veering both cables eciually, and tiien having two anchors aft, to haul as much as po>sible in the bay. At one mile N.F. ij F.. from Harbour Round, is Brent Core, called by the French, Petit Coup de Hache ; it is a fishing place for boats, but ships should not come here, for there is but little depth of water, and the bottom is uneven and rocky. Tliese two harbours are of little importance to the fishery, lying too deep in Confusio-.i Bay for the cod-fish to enter. On the whole of the coast between La Scie harbour and Harbour Round there is not less than ten fathoms water close in-shore. On leaving Harbour Round for Pucqnet Harbour, do not appronch the loft-hand shore too nearly, as there is a rock about mid-way between the entrance of the haioour and the point which forms the entrance of the lower part of Confusion Bay ; it is close in-shore. This last bay is not frequented, as it is open to the winds from the N.E. Pacqui T IIauboiir.— »From Harbour Round to Paccjuel Harbour, first steer K.N.E. for 2 miles, then N.W. by N. [N.W. by IF. J JV.'] 31 miles, taking care to avoid the rocks which lie three-quarters of a mile from the Gros Morne. Pacquet Harbour may be known at its entrance by the high lands wliich lie to the S. ; it is very safe, and can be used by all vessels. The position of the Gros Morne is in lat. 490 58' N. and long. 55° 45' 8" NN". At the starboard point, which is low, are three small rocks and a shoal. The depth of water in the entrance is 23, 21, and 19 fatlioms ; the harbour then separates into two arms ; the one to the N.W., where the fishing establishments are, is commonly called Pacquet, and the other, to the S.W., is called by the French the Baie de Paris. In the north-western arm and a little on the left-hand on entering, is a shoal, on which there is but little water ; it is uncovered sometimes. Vessels anchor more to the N., mooring both forward and astern; the depth is from ll^to 14 fathoms, and .t ruOM CAPF, ST. JOHN' TO C.\I>E NOK.MAN, 37 OUN to It lies S.by . It is the all around ; t mile to the From r!ape h lii/l, tlu'n clear to llie the liarlxnir. sc the wliolo 'y ac'i. The chain cables lerable as to aiice. lyiii'^ nearly lain ; the sea ( 'a|)e I5reiit ce which, on e to the port 0(1, you can !Ond (Trouiid. L'k which lies o(ir both fore f l^ines ; these consist of two large rocks, having between them and the W. point of the bay, a passage, in which is a dej)!!! of fiom 18 to (3ti fathoms, and is about half a mile long; but geneiully the Isles are left on tiie lar- board in going out. To the west of these Islands is CJrifn Bay, which is about ten miles deep, and three in its greatest width. Its depth is very unequal, and varies from 90 to 18 fath(mis, but is very irregular, except at the end, where it lessens from 'I'l to 5^ and 3.i fathoms. At the entrance of this bay, in the direction of N. J V\ . [A'. IF. k iV.] and at a distance of 1^ mile from Ming's Islands, is a low rock, called 'lite S'istrr,s, around which the sea almost continually breaks ; and to the N. by \V. \ W. from this, at half a mile distance, is a shoal, on which there is but three feet water. These are dangerous shoals. From Isle of Pines to Piireon Lslmtd, which forms the southern entrance of Fleur-de-Lis Harbour, the route is N. i W. [iV. IF. if JV.] and the distance 5:f miles. On the north side of this island, but close to it, is a small rock. Fi,Ei'R-DK Lis IlAHBorii is difficult to distinguish when near the shore, although when at a sufficient distance, its position is indicated by a mountain over it, which has the form of the head of a fleur-de-lis, and from which it derives Us name. There is no danger to be feared in approaching the entrance ; but when in the harbour, it will be necessary to keep close on the riyht-hand shore, to avoid a rock, on which there is but 5 or 6 feet water, and which lies nearly two c.ibles' lengtli cast of the south point of the harbour islet. When within the islet, you can anchor in '.i^ to 4 J fathoms, sheltered from all winds. Vessels should not attempt to beat into this harbour ; it is better to anchor to 38 TIIK EASTKUX COAST AND WIIITI. IJAY, the N.R. of the isle, ami then haul further in. There \% more water to the west of the islet than there is in its channel ; also a shi|) drawing more than IG feet, shnuM not endeavour tu ItasH It, hut oii^'ht, on the contrary, to anchor to the S.K. or to the S. of the i.slet, whete will \e found from 10^ to .5.^ fathoms water. WlllTI'i MAY. — At 2i milt's N.W. from the point which forms the slarbo.ird entrance of Fleur-de-lis Harbour, is I'ailritl^c I'oiitt, situate ni lat. M)' ()' 1 V, and loni;. 5t)° ;>' l\" VV. It forms the south ponii of the entrance of While Hay. Tiie wotern point of Little .St. Harbe Island bears K.S.K. [ I'l.li;/ A'.] 10 miles from it. The soundintjs between these two places are 04, 7'2. 106, Ofi, .ind lastly 2(» fithoins near to Little St. Hatbc Maud, with a botloin of black mud. 1 he depth of White ll.iy i^ more than 46 miles, and above Hi in breadth ; it is very safe in its whole extent. (Jeneially, at two miles from the south shore, there is no bottom at IK) fathoms; nor on the north shore at 70 fathoms ; and this eoiitinues, proceed, ing into the bay until within a mile of the River I had, or nearly at the end, close to a small isle called Miller Island; then it is .TJ, '>7, «i, and 10 at the moulh of the river; but it is seldom that the bay is penetrated so far as this, as it has yond harbours on either shore, and of easy access. In the middle of the bay there is no bottom at 119 fathoms. The current runs out of this bay on the south side, bears S.E. ] K. to the heights of Cape Partridge, and enters the bay on the north side. Lotjsfer Ilurlwur lies W.S.W. \ W. [S.W. i S] at a distance of 12 miles from Point. Partrid^je ; it is a small port of a circular form, having a very narrow entrance, and in which there is but 7 or H feet water, although there is found a de|)tli of 10.^ and 1 i \ fathoms when inside. Vessels of a slight draught of water can enter at the proper state of the tide; but it is as well to remark that the tide rises but 4 feet at neap and 6 feet at spring tides, and which is the case in the whole of the bay. It is high water, full and change, at 6^ hours. It is necessary, in entering Lobster Harbour, to keep on the larboard shore, till to the west of the south p(>int of the entrance, on the north of which there is a small rock near the land. At 4 miles S. W. by W. j W. from Lobster Harbour, is the Southern Ann,i\\c first indentation met with in proceeding along the coast from Partridge Point ; it is a large and salt; harbour for a man-of-war ; the anchorage is in 15 to 17 fathoms. When the larboard point is shut in by that of the starboard, a second point will be seen in a S.I'', direction, which leaves, between it and the coast, a very small passage, entirely closed by a mussel-bank, which dries at low water. Heyond this, there is again a depth of 16 fathoms. Hetween Cape Partridge and this harbour there is, close in-shore, a depth of at least <) fathoms, and at a mile distant, 33, 39, and 49 fathoms. To the S.W. by W. J W. of the 'V. point of the South Arm, and IJ mile distant, is the Middle Arm ; at the entrance is a small rocky isle, from whence runs a bank, on which there is but from 5 to 10 feet water. On the eastern side there is another shoal, which runs out from the coast as far as the preceding, so that the entrance may be said to be shut in by them, though there is a very narrow channel, which is nearer the isle than the eastern side. Within this shoal the harbour enlarges, and has a depth of 9 to 2J fathoms water. This port cannot be used but by very small vessels. hauling Point bears W. ,J S. [Sjr. J HM 6i miles from the point of the Middle Arm ; it forms the entrance of the Western Ann, This part of the coast is not so clear as the parts just described, but by keeping at a distance of one mile, the rocks and shoals may be avoided, and of which, those farthest out are near the Pigeon Islands, and the two points we have just mentioned. The Western Arm extends for '2 miles to the S.E., and vessels can enter in safety in 14 and 15 fathoms water ; at the entrance, to the N.R., is Bear Cove, where small vessels can moor, sheltered from the wind, in lOJ fathoms. There is a second called Wild Cove, exposed to winds from the N.W., and with a rocky bottom. This part of White Bay is much narrower, it not being more than 6.^ miles. The N. point of Sop Island bears W.N.W. J W. [fr.SW. h W.] from Hauling Point, 8 miles distant; and that of Coni/ Arm Head, N. J W., [Njr. by N. i \V.] at a distance of 9 miles. Proceeding to the S.W., towards the bottom of the bay, at 6 miles from Hauling Point, there is a small inlet called Purbeck Cove, where vessels can safely anchor in 10 and 11 fathoms. This is the last anchorage on the S.K. side of White Bay, and its approach is without danger. To the W. by N. [fr. by S. J S.] of the entrance of Purbeck Cove, at the distance of 1 J mile, lies the North point of Grnndbys Island, called also Middle Island; it has no shelter or cove for boats; at about 400 yards from the S.E. shore is a shoal, with 8 feet KUOM (APt ST. JOHN TO CAl'E N'OUMAK, 39 est of the islet ; endeavour to ct, where will (oird entrance . 56° :i' i\" W . .illleSt. ii.irbe Bse two places [h a l)()tloin uf in lueadtli ; it re, there is no lies, proceed- losf (o a small ivor ; hut it is lier shore, and eights of Cape ?s from Point ranee, and in dill rathomi iL' of the tide ; rini? tides, and ', at (3 1 hours, till to the west near the land. rst indentation d saft; harhour [I pouit is shut which leaves, l-l)ank, which between Cape ms, and at a istant, is the Ink, on whicli d, which runs be shut in by eastern side, water. This ^liddle Arm ; clear as the loals may be two points and vessels Bear Cove, is a second . This part loint of Sop bt; and that juling Point, 10 and 11 ■approach is distance of it has no with 8 feet f I water on it ; Grandby's Island is distant 1 1 indes from Miller ItlamI, which is within one rnde of the end of White Hay ; continuing the coast, there is found to the N.W. of Miller Island, (iulil Cove, where tlit- river divides into several branches, the streams from which deteriniiie the currents. I'roceediiik? thence toward the N.l'., and then to the northward, we arrive at Spair Point, which is directly H'. (true of (Jrandby's Island, which is l.^i miles fiom the river at the end. The whole of the co.i>t between Spear Point and the end of the bay, is very safe, and ihere is not less than from I'J to 59 fulioms water close to the shore. Sop hbiml, to the N. of Cajie Spear, bears W. J S., [.S'./r. \ W.] 3.1 miles from Par- iridue Point ; it is ai)oiit 3^ miles loiii; fioni W. to Iv, and 1^ broad fioin S. to N. ; near its Sonih side is a small island called iinala' Island ; they form touether, a loii^ passage callf-d Sop'i Arm ; u vessel can anchor just within the northern extremity of Sop Island, where from 20 to 2M fathoms water will be found. To proceed more to the S.NV., it is necessary to keep close to Sop Island, because the coast of the continent is not so safe ; there is a rock at half-way between it and the island, at neatly 3 cables' length from the uncovered rock in mid-channel ; but having passed this rock, there is anchorage either between 8op and (ioat Islands, or between the latter and the continent, in a de[ith of 4{ or U fathoms. There is a cove on Sop Island which bears its name, and to the North of Goal Island, on the continent, two other bays, called Iker Covet. At the distance of 3 J miles N.E. [N. hu K." from the North point of Sop's Island, is the entrance u( Jiifl fathoms, except in a small bay called Itodfnther Cove . lyiii; on the ritjiu hand in enterinsj, and in which a vessel can moor f{)re and aft. This port pro('uces tl e best timber of all those in White May. Frenr/iman's Ctnr is Qi miles N K. '.y K. ^ Iv [S'.X.K. I K.] from the entrance of .lackson Arm, after iloubliiiK a low ponii which ndvaiit -^ a little to the S. by E, ; it offers a good and safe anchorage in 9 or 1 1 > udioins. Proceeding fiom the entrance of Frenchman' "ove N.K. i N. [iV. by E."] 4 miles, vrc come to Conif Arm Head, which is the most rt nurkable land on the western side of White Ray ; it lies \V. \ N. [S.ir. hi/ \V. } ll'.l 2:^\ miles fro Partridge Point, and advances, nearly in a straight line, in the form j: .; peninsula, leaving between it and the continent, (ireut Cornj Arm, which affords no shelter to the tisliin'„' vessels ; hi t in the smaller arm of the same name, lying to the west of Cony Arm Head, there is a vv.) E,ood anchorage for small vessels ; its entrance is not sufficiently deep for vessels of a large draught. Three and a half miles north of Liltle ^'ont/ Arm, is Devil's Cove, which is very narrow, and open to winds from the S.K.; its depth is about 4.1 fathoms. To the N.W. by W. J W., [fr. \ S.] 18i miles from Partridye P. it, and also X. E. by K., [iV.iV.E. \ K.] loj miles from Cony Arm Head, is Great Cat Arm, and 2.^ miles farther in the same direction. Little Cut Arm. In (ireat Cat Arm the depth of water is from 37, 3.'), 29, 27, 24, 20, to 15 fathoms, at the end of the arm, where it is quite safe, and sheltered by the land. At the end of the north point lie some rocks, which are above water; to avoid them, keep quite close to the south shore ; but in going into Liltle Cat Arm, it is belter to keep on the north side, as there is a rock near the land on the opposite side. The entrance to this arm is narrow, and there will be found in it '''^nth of 22, 9, and 3.i fathoms; the least depth of water will be found on the south side ''■c harbour, within the points. To the N.W. \ N., [IT. bi/ JV. I N.] J 5 miles from Partridge Point, and N.E. by K. } K., 6 miles from Little Cat Arm, is Little Harbour Deep, much exposed to winds from the eas»ern quarter, and by no means good as a harbour; '-.tl the north point of its entrance, there are some uncovered rocks, about half a mile fioiL the shore, and inside of them there is a passage, the depth being 13 fathoms; but h( height of the land frequently causes sudden and strong gusts of wind, when it blows from between the S.W. and N.W., and it is therefore advisable, if it is not necess-:ry to close in with the land, to go outside of them. There is no great depth of water in any pait of the bay, and the extremity of the bay, from about midway from it» entrance, is shoal water ; this will be found by the lead, as toward the entrance there is about 20 fathoms, which suddenly slioalens to 5 fathoms on the edge. The north point of Little Harbour Deep, is that of the peninsula which separates it from Union or Grandea Vaclies Cove, of whicli it consequently forms the southern point. This harbour has no more shelter than the former, and is but little, if at all frequented. The north poini of its entrance appears like an island, and lies N.\V. I W., [A'. M'. by \V. I W.] at adistari:;e vf 15 miles from Partridge Point. I I '.i i i il i I. I'; m- ] 1 49 THE EASTERN COAST AND WHITE BAY, From the north point of Grandes Vaches, running 7 miles N.E. by E. i E., we meet with Orange Bay or Great Harbour Deep, which is easily recognised by the low lands at its entrance, which are less elevated than any of the coasis nordi of \N hile Hay ; it is distant 16 tiiiles N. by W. [A', il', \ iV.) from Parlridue I'nint ; this hay is s[)acioiis, and has on the ri'irih side of the e'ltrante a small cove, that is iVeqtifnled by the lishin^ vessels. At 2.J nidt's from ihe points of the enirance, ()i;inj;e May divides into two arms, one to the north-west, and die otiicr to the west ; these two aims have no anchorage, on account of the great depth of water, unless it is at the end of the hist arm. Foruciiii II Alt HO I 11. — In proceeding' along the coast to the north-east, thene.xt is rourche Ilarhonr, at a distance of lOi miles from the entrance of Oraiij^'e Hay. This harbour runs to the west for 2 miles from its south point, tiien to the north, formins; a small bay, and then continues to the west. It is in lhi^ noiiheiii buy, which is very narrow, short, and surrounded by very hi^^h land, that vessels anchor in sixteen filhoms water, muoiint^ fore and aft ; but it can only receive small vessels ; if ships are necessitated to enter Fouichu, they are oblii;ed to proceed to tne end, nearly 15] miles, to anchor in 18 filhoms. The souiidinjfs met with from the entrance aie, on the iioith side, 4.'3, 57, 45, 19, 20; on the south side, 4rt, 3;5, 31, 15, 20; and at the end there ate IB and 14 fathoms. liooi'ivr, or Sans-Fono IIarhoiu, lies N.E. | F., 5 miles from the North entrance of Fourchc Harbour; it separates into two bays, one to the North, the other to the West. You can anchor in the noilliern bay in (j fathoms; it is, in reality, exposed to winds from the south, but there is no danger, if the vessel is properly niooree depth of water varies from 7, 12, 17, to '2\ fithnms, the depth increasing nearer the Bock, and diminishing towaid the reefs. On the south part of the west side of Belle isle is Giicn Island, which is small and about a third of a mile from the .'horc ; about GOO yards to the N.W. of this is a shoal, near which is IG f.iihoms. Between Pelle Isle and the coast of Newfoundland there is no bottom at GO or G5 fathoms excepting near the land, but in mid-channel between it and Canada bay the depth is 82 fathoms, black mud. The sound- ings to the E. of Belle Isle, 1 1 or 12 miles oil", are 07 fathoms, black mud ; ai 7 miles E. of the N. end of the island, 80 fathoms, mud and shells; and 4 miles from the N.E. point to the E. 82 fathoms, brown mud. GiiOAis or Gnoi.x Island. — The channel between Groais and Belle I.sle is 5.J miles broad, the depth on the N. is 43 fathoms, to the S. 39, and in the middle 5 t to 58 fathoms, and generally the bottom here is of brown mud mixed with rotten shells. Tiiere is no shoal or danger in this passage. Groais Island is very high, and its surface is even ; its most northerly point is in lat. 50° 59' kV, and long. 53^ 27' 23". It is nearly 7 miles long from N. to S. and \i\ miles in its greatest breadth. It is very safe on its E., S., and W. sides; but to the N.W. there are several rocks above and beneath water, which extend to the North. To avoid these rocks, keep the north point of the island always to the S. of S.E. J E. At the N.E. point are three small islands called the Sisters, but they ought not to be passed too closely. In tine weather Groais Island may be seen at a di.stance of 15 or 18 leagues. To the E. of the island there is no bottom at (JO fathoms, 3 miles off; but to the N.N.E. at 2 miles the soundings are 67 fathoms, and between the island and the coast, 47, 66, 70, 62, and lastly, 'M fathoms, at less than a mile from the shore. The channel between Groais and Newfoundland is rather above 7 miles broad. From Gonde Mount, at the north extremity of Cape Ilonge, the coast runs to the W.N.W. for nearly a mile and a half, and then again to the E. by N. for G miles, as far as Capo Vciit, forming a large bay, which con irehends within it two smaller ones, separated from each other by u large cape railed h gle Cape. The first or southern bay is called Pillar Pay, and is a good fishing place, but scarcely aflbrds security to the boats. The second to the North, n.. .od Millions Bay, has net more shelter than the former, and is also an excellent tishing-place. The coast of this bay is very high, and may be distinguished from that to the south of it, because it is not wooded in the interior, as well as by being barren near the sea. Millions Bay is on a line which joins the south point of Groais Island, and the N.E. point of Belle Isle. If the mountains on the coast should be covered with the fog on approaching the land. Cape Vent or Cape Rouge may be easily found, according as it is from the north or south that they arr sought. Croc IIaiibour. — The entrance of this harbour is formed on the S. by Cape Vent, which IS in lat. 51® 2' 25", and long. SS" 41' 32", and on the N. by Grouts Point. At FROM CAl'K-^T. JOHN TO CAPE NORMAN. 43 , of which a alhoms ; this e wind is not ; Kongo, and ather abroad, tiie distance around ; the ithoms. On Y/j'n, whicli is 'rom it. 18' and \on^. '. to S.E. It h above and 1. Tlie most ! Isle, named t Ai>;uilletles. d can receive liaid aft into (les the fust, utii Uock will s on tlie S.W. nl ; tl)e de|)ih lie Kock, and Isle is G recti GOO yards to and the coast ^ land, but in Tlie sound- 1 ; ai 7 miles Voni the N.K. 8 is b\ miles o 58 fathoms, Tiiere is no is even ; its |iearly 7 miles ts E., S., and which extend ys to the S. ul they ought a distance of 1, 3 miles off; island and shore. The runs to the liles, as fiir as Ics, separated may is called boats. The r, and is also listinguished as by being lit of Groais |ng the land, Mh or south Cape Vent, Point. At tiie foot of the cape there arc two black, rocky islets, whicij leave between ihcni a passage for boils, when the sei is calm ; a ship can pass cjuile close to the outer one. The entrance of Cioc Harbour is two-third-* of a mile wide; the 3. shore runs first \V. by N. and then to the W. by S, forming the S.W, bay, which offers no slieller from N. or N.l'i. winds; and conserpienlly is never used. A small ves-.el drawing 9 or 10 feet water, can, however, run to the end of the bay, ami lie between the SA\ . islit and the fishiii'^' establishment called Ptlil-JMiiltre, opposite the fishing-stage of this pi. ice, but it will be necessary to moor fore and aft. A liltle within the S.W. bay, there is an uncovered rock on which the sea always breaks ; it is known by the name of the Follr, although the fishers generally call it the tyiudc Rock. In going to the S.W. it must be left to the sturboaid, and as soon as n 's rasstd, bear towards a small bay called liicra dnv, to avoid a breaker which lies in the .iirection of the islet; after this, steer between the islet and Pelit-Maitre. From the entrance of the S.W. bay, the harbour runs N. by W. and at li mile divides into two arms, one to the N. the other to the S.W. ; the first is called the Foml, and the other F.pine-Cadorct . There is anchorage in any part of Croc Harbour, the depth not being more than from 22, 19, 18, 16, 10, and 9 fathoms, though all parts of the bay arc not equally good ; a vessel is well moored (N. and S.) when Cape \'eiit is shut in by Point Genillc ; the tiepth then is 18 or 19 fathoms, and the Iwltom of hard mud of a slate colour. There is also anchorage in V'pine-Cadoret, but it is not necessary l'> jtrnceed so far into the bay. The winds which are strongest in Croc Harbour are those between S.W. and N.W., which generally are in squalls. Nordi-easterly winds are also felt in bad weather, but they nei-er cause a very heavy sea in the harbour. In Kpine-t^adoret, just after passing l)y a narrow creek, which dries almost entirely at low water, there is a convenient place on the rocks, for heaving a vessel down to careen ; the FrLiich ships of war, Olivier and I'lulomele, were hove down here, and the rocks j)repared for the rigging and a capstan. At the end of the arm, toward the W. there is a small river which runs 2 or 3 leagues into the country, and leads into a part of the forest where spais may be procured. ('roc Harbour is the central point ff the French station, and i.< easy to enter and get out of; wood and water are also readily procuied. A frigate can tatk into it, but great attention must be paid 10 veer about in good time, as under the land the wind is uncertain, and fre(|uo.itly takes ab.ick at the moment of tacking about, partieulaily when the wind is from the N.W. and \n s(jualls. Cape Vent is not easily recognised by stnnc;ers, particu- larly in making the land directly from the K. ; it lies N.W. ^ N. [ W. by N. J A'.] 9 miles from the north point cf (Jroais Island. In leaving Croc harbour to proceed to the nordi, after pa^^sing I'oint Grouts, two black rocks are seen, cilled by the fishers the Itfivena. The land hence to Irish Island, runs K. by N. \ N. no irly :5 miles; fro.n thence to the N. K. to the S.W. point of Sl.Julien hlund, which e.\tciuls a inih' to the east. Irish or lUuck hlund is half a mile from that of St. .Uilien : it is a barren rock, beaten by the sea, and very abni|)l. St. Jiilien Island to the N. and 8 miles from the N.l'^. point of Groais, forms the enliance of the large harbour of the same name : liiero are two shoals, one at the south point a little to tlie E., the other on the N.W. side, but they do not extend above liOO yards from the land. All around and close in-shore there is 12, 11, 2(>, and 83 fathoms. The passage between this island and the continent should not be allempted. St. Jur.iF.N IlAitnoi'R. — The harbour of Great St. Julien lies to the S.W. of the northern part of St. .lulicn Island ; to enter it, pass to the N.E. of the island, aiul then steer so as to keep one-third or half a mile off, until the channel which separates it from the coast is seen ; then keep on the larboard shore to clear a shoal which extends from the western shore over nearly a third of the breadth of the harbour. When at the rise of some very low land between two mountains, or nearer the end of the harbour than the esablishments, you can anchor in 7 or 3.^ fathoms, mooring fore and aft. To enter l.iltlc St. Jnlicn Harbour, proceed as if for Great St. Julien to avoid a rocky shoal which projects from (Irftntlcs Oics Island, and terminates in a tolerably large bank ; thence as soon as abreast the entrance of (Jrandes Oies, steer for Liltle St. .lulien, and anchor then m fore and aft. •li OTl]\ fathoms. Like the foregoing harbour, it is necessary to moor The Harbour cf drandts Oies, shut in by die island of the same name, is not fit for the leceptiou of ships, but is \ery convenient for lisiiing- boats. I'nun this harbour the coast runs 1^ mile to the U. by N,, then fur the same distance to the N. by E. I E., and then 44 THE EASTEKN COAST AND WHITE IJAV, f-l W #:■ lo the N.N.W. for one mile, to Grandes Ilettes harbour. The route hither is quite clear, and there is from 10 to 14 fathoms near the coast. Although open to S.E. winds, Grandes Ilettes Harbour being situated at the foot of high mountains, the wind is seldom strong, being checked by them ; vessels lie safely in it in 5 J fathoms water. TuE Ilettes. — The Pelitcs Ilettes form a harbour, which lies E. \ S. from Grandes Ilettes ; the entrance is exposed to the N.E., and can only receive vessels of a less draught of water than 1 1 feet. The entrance is narrow, and vessels must moor fore and aft. At high water, boats can find a passage to the W. communicating with Grandes Ilettes. Haifa mile to the S. of l*etites Ilettes, and from thence bearing to the N.VV. by N. towards Grandes Ilettes, there are several rocky islets and some shoals; and on account of this, a vessel proceeding to Grandes Ilettes ought to leave to starboard all rocks and isles that may be in sight. Those who go lo Petites Ilettes, if coming from the S. of Fishot Islands, should steer so as to pass these islands at not less than half a mile off, in order to clear the shoals of Monk's Island. The depth of 10 fathoms when to the S. of these islets, will be a guide when to bear to the starboard, and which may be done at one or two cables' length from the shoal, if it is judged expedient, steering N.N.E., in order to pass between i'ishot Island and the shoal which separates into equal parts the channel formed by it, and those of Petites Ilettes; then, when a little to tiie N. of E. from this shoal, which is almost always visible, steer so as to pass to the N. of Madame Island, which should not be kept too close, but so as to be east from the entrance of Peliles Ilettes Harbour, and from thence proceed in to the middle of the passage. Some vessels also pass between the shoals on Ilettes Iblund and that which divides the channel. Le I'oi'u IIariiokr, — This harbour, which is lo the N. of that of Petites Ilettes, and VV. by N. from Pisliot Harbour, is very convenient for large vessels that cannot enter Vishot Harbour. For a vessel going to Le Four the route is the same as before described for Petites Ilettes Harbour, only when the entrance of the last-named harbour bears VV. \ N., a look-out must be kepi for liipissc Shunt, which lies precisely true E. from the N. point of the etitrance of Le Four, and to tlie N.N.E. of that of Petites Ilettes. Care must also be taken to avoid a shoul near tlie larboard point, a little to the S. on entering. The passage to the nortli of UVpisse Shoal is most used ; the marks for keeping \n the proper channel and avoiding all the dangers are, *' the islet in front of Fishof harbour open a sail's breadth of Point (Jala on Froiny Isle." At the point northward of the norlhern point of (he entrance of Le Four, there is a considerable reef of rocks; but it is very near the shore, and extends to about midway between the two points. The anchorage in Le Four harbour is to the left of the entrance, faither within than an islet which lies III the middle of the arm extending to the S.W., and which forms the road. FisiioT Isles are a group of islands, of which the largest is on the S. and is called Fishot^ and forms the harbour of lliis name ; the others are called Fromi/, SerpUUtre, and the Norlh-Kust Island; they le.ive between them a passage for ships, and two smaller ones for boats ; but these are not piacticabk' in all weathers, sometimes on account of the will,], and at other times by reason of the wind and sea. In Fisliot harbour there are several rocks; one near the establishment of Anse n t*Kau, called the Ruse, is very dangerous ; another is situated near the middle of the harbour, and at a certain state of the tide there is not sufficient water over it for a small boat. A vessel coming from the S. to enter Fishot harbour, must proceed as we have described for the Ilettes and Le Four, until it comes to the shoal in mid-channel to the VV. Thence, instead of bearing to the larboard, continue along shore until abreast of Point Vide- liidon, and then steer E. by N. \ N. to Hnd the passage, leaving the small islet to larboard. Proceed toward the cslab< lishment on Fromy island to avoid the Ruse rock, then toward Cape Croix, and lastly toward the islet in the harbour. To a vessel coming from the North, there is no danger, and it can range along the Fishot Isles at a third of a mile off. Vessels drawing more than II feet water should not make for Fishot harbour, but rather for Le Four harbour. There is no wood, for firing or otherwise, on Fishot Islands. To the N. of the island on the N.E. of Fishot island there arc several rocks and islands. The nearest is called The Verdons, and the farthest the Cormoruiidicrs. The Great and Little Verdon are clear, but to the VV. of N. from the larger island, and in mid-channel between it and the Cormorandier, there is a rock which is rather dangerous. The Cornio- randiers themselves are surrounded with shoals, atid there is a bank at a quarter of a mile E. from the largr.st. Between the Cormorandiers and Le Four in the direction of VV. by f>. i S. there are several shoals, and an uncovered rock, which is rather more to the west ; FllOAi CAPE ST. JOHN TO CAPE NORMAN. 45 e clear, and Is, Grandes lorn strong, m Grandes ess draught ift. At high tes. Haifa N. towards nt of this, a d isles that hot Islands, Icr to clear e islets, will two cables' lass between rmed by it, al, which is I should not arbour, and between the Ilettes, and cannot enter ire described irbour bears rue E. from ctites Ilettes. to the S. on I for keeping nt of I'ishof iward of the ks; but it is le anchorage I which lies ailed Fishott tre, and the mailer ones ount of the n- there are St', is very a in state of g from the d Le Four, [aring to the er E. by N. the cstab- and lastly no danger, wing moro lur harbour. \m\ islands. Great and kid-channel he Cornio- |r of a mile of W. by the west ; but in all the eastern part between the bank of Great Cormorandier and the 8. of Fishot Islands, there is no danger at a distance of a quarter of a mile from the shore. II AHE Hay. — Fishot Isles on the south and Goose Cape on the north form the entrance of Il.ire Hay, which extends to the west for t7 or 18 miles, and is about 6 miles broad. This liirge bay contains several harbours, which are not frequented on account of their being so deeply seated in the bay. The whole of the south side of this bay is bordered with rocks, but these may be all avoided by keeping to the northof a line between Cormorandier Island and Springs Island, and also thence to Brents Islands. The soundings between Cormorandier and Springs Island are in 28, 30, 36, and 14 fathoms; between the last and Brents Islands, 11, 17, 15, 12 fathoms, close on the shoals which are VV. j S. from Springs Island. Thus the route to the anchorage in Southern Arm is as follows : from Great Cormorandier run toward Springs Island, and it is better to pass to the N. of it, although there is a channel of nearly a mile broad to the south of it, and in which there is not less than \'l fathoms (but it should be passed in mid-channel) ; proceed thence toward the middle of Hrents Island, or toward the North Island, according as the passage IS to the N. or S. of Springs Island ; proceed thus till the western point of the entrance of the Southern Arm is open ; it lies to the west of a small island, and then hear up : the depth now will be 15 fathoms, and it is less than half a mile from Brents Islands. Continue towards the last-named point, and the entrance to the Arm will be seen ; on entering it the course is to the S.W. by VV. that is, in mid-channel; the depth will be 17, 19, 10, 12, and then 10 and II fathoms when arrived in the broadest part, where the anchorage is. \'cssols can also anchor to the W. 2 N. of the most southerly of the Brents islands, in 4J and it fathoms. The north side of the bay is quite clear and safe in its whole extent, and tiiere is a much better harbour here called Uow't Harbour. Its entrance is precisely N. (true) of the eastern side of Brents Islands, and N.W. ^ W, [IK. iy N.] 1 IJ miles from Goose Capo. The hills around it are barren, but small stunted wood may be found in the valleys. This harbour is two miles deep by two-thirds of a mile broad ; it is open to the S.W. and turns to the N.N.W. by which it is shut in like a basin. The depth of water is 10 fathoms. It is easy and safe of access, because on all the north side of Hare Bay from Goose Cape to Hare Island, which is 4 miles to the west of this harbour, there is not the smallest rock ; and there does not exist a single shoal north of the line which joins nreiils Islands, Springs Island, and the Great Cormorandier. Between Brents Islands and How Harbour, the soundings give 18, 22, 23, 24, and 15 fathoms at the entrance of the harbour; between Springs Island and the north coast the depths are 18, 27, 34, 4.*), 40, :58, 34, and 35 fathoms ; between Cormorandier Island and Goose Cape, 27, 32, 31, 1!5 fathoms; and along the middle of the bay from its entrance to the end, passing to the northward of Mrenls Islands, there is 31', 35, 39, 4G, 41, 25,27, 21, 17, 12 and 9 fathoms. Spars and other timber can be procured in Hare Bay. Goose Cape is one of the most remarkable points on the coast of Newfoundland ; it is to be seen from a great distance, and projecting into the sea with a gentle declivity, it has the appearance of a tongue of low land, which in certain positions seems like an island, and separated from the land. It may be also remarked, that Hare Bay being deep and the shores low. Goose Cape will appear entirely detached from the coast to the S., which runs northerly. Its latitude is HI" 17' 20", long. 55*» 32' 32" ; it is 18 miles N.N.E. [N. J W.] from the north point of Groais Island. A little to the N. of Goose Cape and nearly over it, there are three very distinct mountains that are near the coast, and more in the interior, to the N. of Hare Bay, the Capillaire AJountains, which are very high. The .soundings to the E. of Goose Cape, at the distance of 9 to 12 miles, are about 83 fathoms ; the bottom of fine grey sand, and the same depth is found before Crdmaillere Harbour. Goes llAniioua is to the north, and under the cape of the same name, after doubling it ; it is open to the W. by N. At its entrance is an islet, on which iron rings are fixed, on which tow ropes may be affixed, by which vessels can haul into die harbour with con- trary winds. The passage is to the N. of the islet, at a short distance to the N., as there is a small covered rock near it. In the middle of the harbour is a rock called the Baleinc, or If'halc, but it is never covered. V^essels must moor fore and aft in Goose Harbour. Three Mountains. — The harbour of Three Mountains is to the VV. of Point Enrag^e of (lOose Cape, and at the back of Notre Dame Island ; the entrance is on either side of this island. If the south pas.sage is used, keep closer to the island than to the southern side, because there is a rock to the E. of Cape Enragce at two cables' length from it ; the tlepth in ntid-channcl is 20 fathoms, then 10, when off" the islet, which is about mid-way I ir^ H < \ 1! m ^ ■h 1 ' I ;t I ■« IS ; ! 1 li|! 'i t I; ; li 46 THE EASTEllN COAST AND WIIIIE IJAV between Notre Dame Island and tlie land. If the norll em passage is usetl, it is .iIm) notcs- sary to keep close to tlio island, because of a shoal wliicli is about half a niilo to tlio norlli- ward ; afler wliicli run into the harbour, leavin;^, in preference, the islet on tlie slailiuaid. Vessels, anchoring fore and aft, lie licre in ju'ifecl s;ifeiy. CrimaiUcn: Ilarbonr is one of the linest. on the const of Newfoundland, and is an excel- lent port for men-of-war to put into. It has excellent w.itcr and abundance of firo-wood. Its entrance is about half a mile broad, formed, on the South, by (.'ape Uniit-ct-Hns, be- neath which is a cave, washed by the sea, called Whale-IIole ; and on the North by a low, rocky, sea-worn ])oint, called Anchor Point. In cominj^ from the South to ( 'rrmuilli re Harbour, there is a shoal to the north of Notre Dame Island, which care must be taken to avoid ; to do this, keep outside of a line jctininji; the larboard point of the entr.ince and the N.K. point of the island, and when Anchor Point bears to the K. by N. run to the N. by E. to clear a point on the left hand, from which runs a shoal for a cable's length from ii ; then bear towards the end of the harbour, at an equal distance from either shore, and anchor in 12, 10, or 9 fathoms. In coming' from the East or the North, run alonij shore a cable's length distant from Point Sauvages, a steep, rocky point, sea-worn, and on the starboard side on entering (JrimailRre, running to the East from Anchor Point, and then steer N. by W. to enter the anchorage. The bottom is good, and is better in front of the establishment called Banc a I'Ouis than in any other j)nrt. Erom Anchor Point, and in a N. by E. direction, there is a reef of rocks, on which there is but 10 or I i feet water ; thus it would not be prudent to approach this point too nearly, in case the wind should fail. In tacking into Cremailli:re Harbour, bear round as soon as 4.j fathoms arc attained ; and care ought to be taken on account of the land-sciualls and flaws which are met with under (Jape llaut-et- Has. IJetween Crcmaillcre and Fox C'a))e the coast is quite clear and safe. At the distance of4i miles E. by N. \ N. from Point iMiragc'o is (Jape St. Anthony; and in the same direction, li mile farther, is French Point, which is often mistakert for the Cape, although it is to the East of it. This point is in lat. 51° 'J'/, and long. /.5" '^3' 42". St. Am HON y. — Cape St. Anthony, with Fox Point, form the opening of Si. Man 1i, .')4, and 23 fathoms; it aflbrds no shelter, and tlic bottom is of coral. I'ox Point lies to the N.W. by W. I W. of Cape St. Anthony, at the distance of one mile and two-thirds ; it is very safe, and may be approached as well as either side of the harbour. V^■ssels may anchor in any part, from the Horse's Hack to the end of the harbour; and also in ^Uirgarct liny, whiih lies on the light-hand side of the harbour; the depth at the entrance is 'J 4 fathoms, abreast of the Horse's IJack 10 fathoms, and nearer the enti 8, 7, .'> and 4.^ fathoms, good bottom. \'essels moor 1'^ and W. To anchor in INlargarct ISay, keep toward the starboard point, because on the op| osite side the depth for about two-thirds across is not more than /i to 1 1 feet. N.W. by W. from the most .southern point of the starboard side of the entrance of St. Anthony, and t>fVihe lirst bay that is met with on the same side, tiiere are some rocks beiieath the surface of the water ; tliey can be avoided, if the South point before mentioned does not bear to the north of S.IC. by E. before passing to the \\'. of the afore- said bay. IJiir.iiATS, or BiiAiiA. — In proceeding N.E. by N. for three miles from FVench Point, we atrive at the south point of lin/tats Bay. This bay is nearly a mile broad, and is bounded on the north by a point of rocky islets, called the Eptes de Briltut. To the east- ward of the south part of this point, and a mile and a half off, is Brefiat S/ioal, on which there is but 12 feet water ; although it is of small extent, the sea, in bad weather, breaks over it with great fury. It is die most dangerous shoal on all this coast, lletween it and lirehat Hay there is a very good passage, the depth near the F'pces being 22 fathoms ; more to the south 4G and ii? ; m-ar ihe shoal there is 17, 20, and 21 ; at 1 ,i mile to the east, 41 ; to the S.E. two or three miles, 34 and .')3, sandy bottom ; and I J mile to the north, 45 fathoms water, bottom of brown sand. There are fishing establishments, both in Oreat and Little Hrehat, but ships anchor in (Iieat Ihchat; the entrance of it is narrow and diflicult, and wiUi strong winds ai sea, the sea breaks in such a way that it is difficult to find out the liarbour. St. LunaiueBay. — From the Fpees de Rrehat to St. Lunaire IJay, the coast runs the N.N.E. ^ E. ; at the south part of the entratice of the bay there are two islands, called Gruuchain hiaiiils, which have between them a narrow, rocky jMssago, which is sometimes used, it is suid, by boats ; the passage fur ships and other vessels is tu the north rUOM CA1»K ST. JOHN TO CAPE NOUMAX. 47 .iIm) nocts- I llio nortli- ! stuiliuaid. is an excel- ■ firn-uood. rt-Bas, be- ll by ii low, Cremuillire be taken to nee and tlic ibe N. by K. om it ; ilien 1(1 anclior in »re a cable's le starboard 1 steer N. by slublisliniont a N. by E. it would not tacking into ; oujilit to be npe llaut-et- l the dist;uice in the same pe, aliliou'ili /. Miin lini/, jny Harbour. i 3fi, 35, 34, It lies to the ■thirds ; it is V( ssels may in Mdr^arct ilraiice is 'Jl 4i fathoms, 1) toward the licross is not bdard side of |idp, tliore are jioint before lof the afore- [rcnch Point, |roail, and is To tlie east- ;/, on which Liher, breaks It ween it and lioms ; more Ito the east, llie north, 45 In Great and |ind vlinicult, find out the coast runs Iwu islands, to, whicli is [to the north of these islands, and is about one-third of a mile broad. When between the two points of the entrance, there will be seen a-head ilaute-et-Vltile Island, Sutiit hhind, and the I'/nte Islands ; the passages between them are not practicable but for schooners, being connected by a chain of rocks ; on account of this, it is noccssury to kt.c|> ti> the North of them all. (Jn the north side of the bay is Amelia Uurbour, in which, within liougo Islaml, then; is an anchorage. This little bay is sheltered by some islands, of vhich the largest is called lli^li hlaud. It is a safe and commodious roadstead, aiul wood and water can bo obtainor schooners, nelwten this i^l ind and the two islands at tin; oiitraiicc of .St. Lunairo there is a large space, in which is fiund 1 I, IB, or 2(i f.iilioins, ami v('S'>els are here secure from winds that come liom between the south and eist. in going into this, there is a rock which must be avoided, and ovf>r which there is but 10 fi' -t water ; it isli>tlio W.N.W. of the low point of liaute-cl-l'late Island, at 600 yards distaiKc, and .').'i() yards fioni the east point of ilaute-Terre Ishuid, which forms the southern limit of the entrance to the N.W. bay. There is another bay to the soulli-west ; its entrance is very nariow, and the shores rocky ; the deplh of water in it is from 9, .'>, to ,'3^ fatiioms. If obliged to do so, the passage to the south of the most northern of tiie IMate Islands can be tried by a vessel of not greater draught than 8 or 9 feut ; but '^rcat care must be taken to k* ep tlie chaniiLl and not touch, and lor this reason it should not be tried unless there is absolute necessity. St. Lunaire bay ofilis very good anchorage to men of war, \Viui r. C'apk and fiiuoi'KT HAimnr us. — From St. I.unaire Hay the coast runs N.K. \ N. rather more than a mile, to White Cape; it is high, and has a remarkable whitish appear- ance, and, with the most southern of the (iriguet Islands, forms the entrance of iriiitc Cape llar/tour. The entrance is narrow, and to enter the aiichora.;e keep close to the (ape, and then shut it in with the Soutii point of the island ; the (h;|)th is ;3.1 to 4j falhoins. The (jriffuet hla'ids are four in number, including Camel Island, forming between ihem several channels and small harbours, where ffshing- vessels can lie in security, 'i'hoy are entered by leaving < .'amel Island on the staiboard, and the smallot of the CJriguets on the larboard hand. There is also a passage between the centn' island and that on the North, but it is difficult. Cinml Island, the most north and west of these islmds, is very high in its centre, and ditlicult to distinguish from the continent, from wiiich it is only separated liy a small channel, in w hich there is not always a passage even for the smallest boat ; this com- municates witli the end of the Sonth-Uest bay, formed by tlie continent and the iiland. There is anchorage in this bay, which is long and narrow, and has fiom 10 to 4i fathoms depth in it. To enter it, keep well oil' Camel Island, then close in with the West point of the islet in the middle of the entrance, and steer to the West till the Soutli-\\ est bay is seen, and then take the middle of it. To enter the North-Wesl bay, steer toward the West point of the North bay, leaving the islet on the right ; double the starboard point at a little dis- tance oir, and then |)roceed to anchor in 15, IG, 10, and then 8 fathoms. NouTH Hay. — To enter this bay, in rounding the point of the entrance, steer towards the islet lying in the harbour, and pass on either side of it, proceetling toward the end, and anchor in 7 or 5 fathoms. The bottom of this anchorage is not good, and winds from the south and east (piarters cause a heavy sea. Slii|)s of war ought to ])i(;fcr the N.W. bay. Storm Cape, wiiich is to the north of the North Hay of the Ciiguets, lies N.N.K. and SS.W. liW.andS.I with Cape I'artridu^e, at the entrance of Kirpon, or (iuirp