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I A 3 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 Map of the Yukon River and District* OVER THE CHILKOOT PASS TO THE YUKON By Frederick Funston T 'HE tourists who every summer crowd the ex- cursion steamers that sail uji the long stretches of the inland passage to Alaska find their view to the north and east everywhere limited by a range of snowy peaks silhouetted like card -board against a sky as clear and blue as that of California. On the one side is a narrow strip of main-land and on the other a thousand islands, large and small, that consti- t u t e soutlieastern Alaska, where are the busy mining town of Juneau, and Sitka, the sleepy old capital. This is the Alaska of the tourist, famous for its great glaciers, its beautiful fiords, and its Thlinket Indi- ans and their totem poles. But beyond the big white range is another and a to- tally diflfereut country, the valley of the Yukon, a great, lone land where winter reigns supreme for nine months of every year, and whose inhabitants are roving Wnds of fur-clad savages. Over in the British Northwest Territory, just across the coast range from Dyea Inlet, Alaska, is a chain of lakes surrounded by snowy mountains and drained by a small stream, which, now roaring between gloomy canon- walls and now gliding among birch-covered hills, bears away to the northwest. On either hand it receives numerous tributaries, some of them of great size, and seven hundred miles from its source leaves the Brit- ish possessions and enters Alaska. After winding for 1,400 miles across this territory it pours its huge flood into Behring Sea. On the lower half of its course the river receives the waters of the Porcupine, Tanana, Koyukuk, and numerous smaller streams, until the lit- tle brook, less than ten feet wide, drain- ing Lake Linderman, has in the 2,100 miles of its course become one of the mightiest rivers on the face of the earth — three miles from bank to bank, thirty feet deep, and with a current of five miles an hour. Four of us were landed with our ef- fects at the head of Dyea Inlet, a hun- dred miles north of Juneau, at day- break on April 10, 1893. My three companions were McConnell, a grizzly old Canadian, Thompson, a miner from Idaho, and Mattern, a good - natured German, who had mined in half a dozen Western States. I was the only one of C^n'ikivt Pass fri'iii t/ir Coast. the paitv who had had any prc-vious the journey. Near our hiiidinof-iilace was Ahiskan experience, but all had roi!u;hed a small Tiiliiiket Indian villaj^e ot'Dyea, it in other countries, and we felt equal whose inhabitants turn an honest penny to the much-vaunted tei'rors of Cliil- every sprin llii- Pass, f'^.- »■.; J life.- ^^R-;."- ■,■■»;■„ ^tT^V. • . ^'W floundering throufj^li the soft snow- under their heavy packs. The snow at this canij) was about two feet deep, and much more fell during the night. Half of the next day was spent in wad- ing through snow from three to six feet deep to the place known as Sheep ('amp, only live miles beyond. Our camp ft)r the second night was at the upper limit of timber, at the foot of the dreaded pass, and only twelve miles from the coast that we had left two days before. Snow had been falling and did not cease luitil the morning of the next day. Roused before daybreak, Ave found the sky clear and the air frosty. Below us was the scattering growth of stunted si^ruce-trees and above the great slopes of snow and ice. Looking for a couple of miles up a large gorge flanked by pi-ecipitous snow-covered mountains, we could see at the summit, tliousands of feet above, the little notch known as the Chilkoot Pass, the gate to the Yukon land. The seriousness of the work at hand was now apparent. Our picturesque retinue of children and dogs was left in camp to await the re- turn of the Indians, and having had breakfast at eight o'clock, the seven Ind- ians and ourselves began the toilsome climb upward. On either hand were the huge masses of the coast range, buried in perpetual snow and ice, nobody knows how deep. The Indians, strug- gling under their heavy loads, stopped for breath every few moments. We four white men had the exasperating task of dragging along the two empty sleds. As we ascended, the snow, which at lower altitudes had been soft, was found to be hard and crusted, being on the last part of the ascent more like ice than snow. At eleven o'clock we had reached the foot of the last and hard- est part of tlie ascent. From here to the summit is only half a mile, but the angle of the slope is about forty- tive degrees, and as we looked up that long trougii of glistening ice and hard- crusted snow, as steep as tlie roof of a house, there was not one of us that did not dread the remainder of the days work As soon as the Indians ascer- tained that the crust of the snow was hard and unyielding they divided the packs, leaving nearly half of their loads at the foot of the ascent, intending to make a second trip for them. The two women who had accompanied us thus far now returned to Sheep Camj), and one of the men, jjroducing a strong l)laited line of rawliide, about one hun- dred feet long, whi(^h he had brouglit with him. passed it under eveiy man's belt, lashing the nine of us together about ten feet apart. The man at the head of tlie line cari'ied in his hands cue of our hatchets, and as we advanced cut footholds in the ice and hard-packed snow. The slope being too steep for direct ascent, we resorted to " zigzag- ging " — thiit is, moving obliquely across the bottom of the trough for about sixtv I; A>i r««M/,, A-// r'Af/.r, <; r. f feet and then turning? at rit^ht angles in the oi^posite s of ba- con, niinin' Lake Lindennan before nif?ht. For several hours the wind had been rising and was now cotnin' snow that one could not see fifty feet. When night came we were so exhausted and so Aveakened by hunger that we decided to abandon the sleds until the next day. In order to mai'k the location a long-handled shovel was stood on end in the snow, and draped with a spare blanket. Then taking each a blanket, Ave struck out through the gathering darkness, down a ravine Avhich Ave correctly judged was the tributary of Lake Linderman. After what seemed an endless struggle through the hoAvling storm Ave reached, at about eleven o'clock, a little clump of dwai'fed sprace - trees, the upper limit of timber. Collecting some dry branches, Ave got on the lee side of a clitt', and after manv fruitless efforts stai'ted a small tire, Avhich smoked and s]>luttered a great deal, but Avas singularly dcA-oid of Avarnith. Wrapped in blankets, Ave huddled together all night, Aviiilo the Avind roared up the canon Avails and i)iled the snoAv about ns. When Ave stretched ourselves out at daybreak the next morning the storm had almost died away. We Avere Aveak and ravenous from hunger and thirst, for Ave had not had a mouthful of food nor Avater since leaving Sheep Camp. After a Aveary tramp of about four miles, Avhich had taken us tiA-e hours, Ave found the sleds entirely buried, nothing but the blanket tied to the shovel being visible above the sur- face. We got out the one Avhicli con- tained the cooking utensils and part of the provisions, and all four taking hold, ruce on the west shore, six miles from its head, having dragged our half -ton of stuff twelve miles. The following day was mai'ked by a unique and successful ex- periment. A strong wind was l)lowing from the south, and in order to utilize it we jDut on to the front of each of the sleds a soit of V-shaped mast, on to which was rigged a tent-tly. Then, with a good wind astern, we went down the lake at a lively trot. It was not neces- sary to pull a i)ouiid. One man mere- ly held on to the tongue of each sled to guide it and keej) it from going too fast. In that day we covered the re- maining twenty miles of Lake Bennett and followed the bank of a short river connecting it with Lake Nares, where we went into camp. Lake Xares is the smallest of this system, being about three miles long and two miles wide. The general surface of the country was quite broken, and to the east wert! lofty mountains. Wherever there was soil there were trees, mostly spruce, pine, and poplar, but the largest not more than a foot in diameter. The snow throughout this region was al)out three feet deep on the level. On going into camp for the night on this journey down the frozen lakes we would \)\\\\ off from the ice to a grove of trees on the lake shore, and after collecting a quantity of dry wood l)uild a fire, and then, preparing the usual rough, but appetizing, camp-meal, would lie down C.iiii/i till I,,i/,, .\',ii ^^gi to sU/ep. Tlie tt-uts were not put up, and usuallv the only attempt iit a l)ocl was a (juantity of spnice-l)oun;lis strewn on tlie snow. Two days of hard work, in Avhich there was no wind to aid us, took our litth' party over Lake Tajjfish to the short river eonnectini,' it with Lake Marsh. Tlie weatlier had heen quite warm for two days and the snow had beu;un to melt perceptibly, but we were niueh surprised to find this stream open in mid - ehannel. Followinj^ the left-hand, or west, bank of this stream for about four miles, we went into camp f iiile above Lake Marsh. On tlie other Ijank, directly opposite, were the Ta^ish Houses. These build- inj^s, two lojj; structures of the Thlinket type, have no permanent occujiants, but are the yearly renig river to the sea, 2.000 miles from the camp on Tagisli liiver, where she was built, and is now th the Avind, and over we went. I lai'd- ed on all fours a dozen feet ahead of the boat ; McConuell and Slattern were thrown against the sail, while bajjfs of tlour, boxes, ^uns, and tools Hew in every direction. The bolster of the forward sled and all the spars and the mast were broken, while the boat itself was badly wrenched. It required an hour to overturn the boat and reload it. We got up what nautical men would call a "jury ricf," and limped over the remaining mile to the foot of the lake. It had taken three houi's and f(uty-two minutes to run the twenty miles from the head of the lake to wliere Ave wei'e wrecked, exclusive of the half-hour lost in putting up the additional sail. The men whom we had distanced did not overtake us, and but two of them reached the foot of the lake before dark. Between Lake Marsh and Lake Lebarge, which is the last and largest of the chain of lakes, there are tifty-tis'e miles of river, but in this short space are the two greatest obstructions to navi- gation in the whole Yukon system — Miles Cafion and the White Horse Kapids. Tlie streajii was about three hundred feet wide, from two to six feet deep, and very switi Great <|uantities of ice were piled up iiloiig the banks and in some jtlaci's large blocks were grounded on si; I low li.jrs. Tin se, with occasion- al boulders nrnlc navigation exciting work. Springhadnow so far advanced that tlu' snow had neai'ly all disap- peared and the weatlier Avas superl). On arriving at the foot of Lake ]\[arsh the boat Avas relaunched iind the sleds placed on board instead of underneath, and the next morning Ave Avere under way doAvn the riA'er. At two o'clock we passed the mouth of the Tahkeena Ri\*er, coming in from the left, and at tiA'e Avent into camp for the night. We knew that A»'e nuist now be near ^liles Cafion, a!id the next morning kej)t a sharp lookout. We had gone scarcely a mile Avhen Ave Avhirled around a bend and saw ahead a low brown rocky ridge, diA'ided by a slit less than thirty feet wide, and at the same time heard the roar of the river in its Avild rush through the cafion. With one impulse Ave pulled frantically for the bank and got a line ashore and around a tree just in the nick of time. Landinu', Ave found in camp seven men Avith their boats. These men had crossed the pass a Aveek before Ave did and had built their i)oats at the foot of Lake ^[arsh, and Avere now engaged in portaging ■^ Thrauf^h Mitfi. Caflrn. them around the canon. This canon was named hy the late Lieiitei.r...t Frederick Schwatka in honor of Cxcneral Nelson A. Miles, who had l)een instru- mental in sendinj? him ou his trip to the Yukon in 1888. The river, which has been about three hundred f. et wide, suddenly contracts to about a tenth of that width, and increasinfr its velocity to twenty miles an hour, ruslies with terrific force throui,'!! a canon with absolutely perpendicular walls a hun- dred feet high. The canon is only three-quarters of a mile lono", and at its lower end the river spreads out into a series of rapidf>, culminating three miles below in the White Horse. There are two ways of passinjf this canon, one by portaging over the hill on the east bank and the other by boldly running through. Some of the men whom we found encamped there were utilizing the former method. The boats were unloaded and dragged out of the water, and by means of a windlass hauled up the hill-slope a hundred I'eet high, and then pulled on wooden rollers for three-quarters of a mile, being linally slid down another hill to the river. The contents of the boats were carried over by the men on their backs. It is the most slavish work imaginable, and uses up the better part of four dfiys. Among the party in cam]) here was a man who had formerly been a Wis- consin lumberman and who announced iu lurid language that he was going to run the canon. He liad set this morn- ing for the attempt, so that wo were just in time to witness the feat. The men, dragging their boats up the hill- side, stoi)ped work and joined us on the cliff a short distance below the heud of tlie canon. The old man steered his little boat into the entrance of the gorge, where it was caught by the swift current, tlu'own up and down like a cork, and in a few seconds was out of sight around the first bend. As he passed underneath we gave him a great cheer, and in a couple of minutes heard a ririe-shot, the prearranged signal that he had jiassed through in safety. In the meanti)ne a couple of young fel- lows fi'om Colorado, whom we left on Lake Marsh, came up, and after a half- h(mr discussion made the attempt. They narrowly escaped destruction, but got ('(Hitrol of their boat again, and in a short time we heard another faint rifie- shot down the river. We had seen both ways f.f i)assing Miles Canon, one requiring four days and tlie other two minutes. We three looked at each other iu an inquii'ing sort of way, and then without a word Avalked down to where the Xancy Hanks was moored against the bank. All took theirplaces, kneelingand facing the bow, ^IcConnell in the .storn, INIattern amidships, and I forward. The oars were placed on })oard and each of us used an ordinary canoe paddle. I must confess that I never felt sicker in mv life than as we shoved Shi'.'tiiit: "■////,■ //,.,■,,■,• A\///,/j. this morn- lit we were feat. Tlie up tlie liill- iiied us on )w the lieud steered his lice of the )y the swift own like a s was out k1. As lie lini a ' fel- we left on 'ter a half- atteiu2)t. iction, Imt n, and in a faint ritle- had seen 'anon, one other two I at eaeh way, and 1 down to ts niooi'ed leir places, kIcConnell ips, and I 1 on board ary canoe I never .ve shoved away from shore and steered for the enti'ance. It was all over so qiiifkly that we hardly knew how it hapiiened. Barely missiii}^ the bi«,' rock at the mouth of the canon, the boat started on its wild rih, and the boat had taken on so much water that she nearly foun- dered before we could bail her out. But a j^reat weight was oit" our minds, for Miles Canon, more than all other things, is dreaded by Yukon travellei-s. Including those lost in 1894, an even dozen of men have had their boats swamped or crushed lil.e eggshells against the canon walls, and not one of them has come alive out of that wild maelstrom of water. Below the canon the river spreads out to its normal width, but is shallow and a succession of rapids. We ran through these for a mile, but after colli(bng with bowl- ders and ice-cakes a d(rn, we waded in shallow water near shore, and so cimld control the speed of the boat, as we could not otherwise do, and prevent its being crushed. Arriv- ing at the head of the White Horse, we went into camp, landed all of our etTtects and sjiread them out in the sun to dry, and remained idle until the next morn- ing. These rapids are half a mile long, and the river has its usual width of three luindred feet except in the lower jiart, where the stream contracts to about thirty feet, and drops through a chute for forty yards. We looked the giound over carefully and spent all of the day after our arrival in carrying the con- tents of the boat through the woods, depositing them at the foot of the rajv ids. We determined to run the now em])ty boat through the rapids as far as the chute, instead of lining it. Ideal- izing that it would be very ditticult to stop where we wanted to, ^IcConnell took his station on the bank near the head of the chute in order to take a line, which we were to throw to him as we passed. Everything work<'d smooth- ly. Slattern and I steered the boat through the ra])idH, and as we neared McConnell I threw a line, which he caught, and taking a hitch around the bowlder, brought us to a rather sensa- tional stop. In this ride I seated my- self in the stern of the boat with the kodak and tried to make a snap shot of the rapids as we ran them, but was so excited that three of the four ex- ])()sures were on the sky, the surround- ing scenery, and the bottom of the boat ; but of the successful one I am not a I'orty M He Cnck. little proud. The boat was (lniti'<>[e(l out of the water on to the rock, around the (lant>erou.s narrows, and we went into eanip at the foot of the White Horse. The next day we drifted down the river twenty-tive miles to the head of Lake Lebarge, wliicli was still frozen, althouj^h the ice was beconiinfj^ <[uite soft. This lake is thirty-two miles lonjjf and eij>ht wide. Here we found in camp Mark Russell, a well-known Alas- kan jji'osjjecter, and three other men, with two boats. After a ain took our seats in the much-butt'eted Nancy. For nine beautiful, cloudless days we drifted down the river to the northwest, rowing' only enough to break the mo- notony of loun^in^- about in the boat. This 2)art of the stream fi'oni Lake Le- barji^e to the mouth of Pelly River is often called by the minei's Lewes River, although it is, as a matter of fact, a part of the Yukon. Great (piantities of ice remained alon<^" the rivei'-l)anks. and as the current was stronj^", there was sure to be an exciting' time whenever we at- tempted to stop to go into camji. The surface of the country was rolling and hilly, backed by low mountains, and was generally wooded in the valleys, the uplands being bare. Caribou and moose were occasionally seen, but we did not succeed in killing any. We passed the mouth of the Teslin or Hota- lin(jua, and reached the mouth of Lit- tle Salmon River, where Ave found a small camp of Tinneh Indians, the first of these people we had met. They were a fine-looking lot of savages, dressed in skins and guiltless of any knowledge of English. In four days we reached the mouth of Pelly River, the site of old Fort Selkirk, burned and looted by Ind- ians from the coast in 1H50. It is a telling commentary on the intelligence of makers of maps that this ()l)scui'e fui*- trading post, abandoned nearly half a century ago and whose only remains are a blackened chimney, sliould still be marked on every map of that I'cgion. The same may be said of Fort Reliance and Fort Yukon, farther down tlie river. The river was now much larger, and Alaska and its Neighbors* { for some distance below the mouth of the Pelly islands were niimerons. AVe passed the mouth of "White River, the great unexplored stream cominsr in from the west, which, witli its milky flood, discolors the Yukon for tive hun- dred miles, and a short distance l)elow, Stewart River, a large eastern tribiitarv. The Yukon was now from half to three quarters of a mile wide, deep antl swift, the banks in some places huire cliffs or palisades 1,000 feet hi}j;h. On the morning of May 23d we passed the big Indian village of Klonjek, but. despite a vociferous greeting from the natives, declined to stop. All day we were swept along between towering cliffs of red and brown rock, and at live o"cl«>ck, rounding a bend, saw below us a group of cabins, surrounding a big storehouse, and in half an hour more were ashore at Forty Mile Creek, the loneliest min- ing camp on the face of the earth, where it is midnight all winter and daylight all summer, and where the mail comes but once a year. AVe were the first arrivals fronx the oiitside for that spring, and brought the year's bud- get of news to the three hundred white men who, in addition to the Indians, at that time foi'med the population of this placer gohl - mining camp of the far north. The village is situated on the left hand or west bank of the Yukon, at the mouth of Forty Mile Creek. There were all sorts of men among the miu- VoL. XX.— 01 ers, who spent their summers in wash- ing gold out of the gulches, and their winters in playing jjoker and spinning yams. Gold was discovered in tlie bars along the creek in 1H84, and subse- quently in the gulches, and placer min- ing has been successfully carried on ever since. NeAV discoveries made in 1893 caused a considerable increase in th*» population, so that there are now more than a thousand men in the camp, in addition to those at Circle City, the recently discovered diggings two hun- dred miles farther down the Yukon, where that stream is intersected by the Arctic circle. We had been just forty-two days in the journey from the coast. McConnell and !Mattern went prospecting for gold, and I never saw them again. The Nancy Hanks had an easy time during the. summer, and later in the season did good service, when I pusheel on farther to the north.