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 T'lSi-IFO RTv^A-TTOTSr 
 
 FOR INTENDING SETTLERS. 
 
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 PUBLISHED BY THF DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTUIiS. 
 
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 FOR INTENDING SETTLERS. 
 
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 Is/IUSKOKIA. 
 
 -AND- 
 
 LAKE NIPISSING DISTRICTS. 
 
 PUBLISHED BY THE DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE. 
 
 OXT^lIIVA.. 
 
 1880. 
 
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INTRODUCTORY. 
 
 In view of the diversity of taste and adaptability of certain 
 settlers for woodlands and a hilly country, containing 
 clear cold brooks and lakes, as compared with the plains of 
 the treeless prairie, the following pages are con' piled from 
 the most recent authorities respecting the Muskoka and Lake 
 Nipissing Districts. 
 
 This compilation is further particularly made in view of 
 the prospect of that portion of the Dominion receiving an 
 added importance from the probability of its being traversed 
 in the immediate future, by a through railway system between 
 the East and the West. 
 
 MUSKOKA AND LAKE NIPISSINa DISTRICTS. 
 
 SUITABILITY FOR SETTLEMENT BY IMMIGRANTS ACCUSTOMED 
 
 TO HILLY COUNTRIES. 
 
 Dr. Hahn, a delegate from Wurtemburg G-ermany in 1878, 
 made the following report of the suitability of the country 
 between G-ravenhurst and Lake Nipissing lor Grerman settle- 
 ment, in which he particularly noticed the progress made by 
 recently established Swiss colonists. 
 
 "By the Northern Railway, he says, by way of Barrie (where 
 the cars change), I went to G-ravenhurst. Here I stayed over 
 for one night in order to see Mr. Cockburn, M P;, proprietor 
 of the steamers plying on Lake Muskoka. He received me 
 most kindly. At 2 o'clock the steamer leaves and arrives 
 at 9 o clock at Rosseau. I might, if I had desired, have made 
 the journey from Toronto to G-ravenhurst in one day ; from 
 7 o'clock in the morning till night. Now 1 had arrived at 
 the Northern point. 
 
 " There is a large hotel here for summer tourists kept by an 
 American. 
 
 " The hotel has existed only two years ; it has a new 
 wooden wing, in which the windows have not even been 
 put in. During the winter it is closed. Down at the lake 
 
 f 
 
 K 
 
 I 
 
 L 
 
there is another hotnl which I would recommend in pre- 
 ference ; and on a peninsula stands the Immigrant House. 
 J "Next morning we start for Magnetawan. The conveyance 
 (a char-a-banc) with two fine horses, is ferried across with 
 me. The road is quite serviceable for some 20 miles. Every 
 mile or so we meet a new blockhouse, and all these houses 
 are biit a few years old. Five years ago an Englishman 
 with a bag of potatoes on his back went towards the north 
 and settled in what is now Magnetawan. (On the 
 maps it is spelled Maganelowan.) At the present time 
 Magnetawan is a village with an hotel, post office, saw and 
 grist mills and several stores. You can here buy everything 
 you may need. Magnetawan is the starting point for the 
 Swiss Colony founded by Madame von Koerber. Some ten 
 Swiss families have settled in the village itself; the others 
 have gone further towards Lake Ni pissing. 
 
 "This country lies under the 46th degr'^e of latitude, that is 
 to say about the same as South Tyrol. The sun is warmer 
 than with us, but not so hot as in New York, the winter it 
 about the same as in the United States, and it does not last 
 beyond the beginning of April ; the greatest cold commonly 
 occurs in January and the first half of February. 
 
 " The soil is Laureutian Grneiss wuth drift sand covered 
 by a layer of mould 
 
 "The forest consists of pines, spruce, the Canadian arbor- 
 vitse intermingled with groups of oak, beech, &c. Here the 
 soil is best. The land is hilly, but does not rise higher 
 than at the utmost 500 feet above Lake Nipissing. From 
 there to Simcoe it is hilly and gently undulating. The 
 harvests are abundant ; they have only suffered a little from 
 the unusual heat last summer. They say the harvest of the 
 second year is usually better than that of the first. 
 
 " The next day we arrived at Commando Creek and the 
 third at Lake Nipissing. The soil grows better the nearer 
 we approach the lake and the forest denser. None of the 
 blockhouses have stood longer than since last October, and 
 yet most of them arc surrounded by 10 acres of cleared farm- 
 land with splendid potatoes, w^heat and oats, corn and 
 
6 
 
 Tegetahl(»s. Wherever we stop to rest tho settlers are able 
 to offer us a good dinner. The cattle are in oood condition, 
 pasturing partly in the woods and partly in fenced lots. 
 Potatoes ripen in six weeks in soil only prepared in June. 
 A good crop of them is expected ; of l)U(kvvheiit also. Fruit 
 trees are only beginning to ))e set out. In the midst of the 
 forest we met a cart, the faruier walking behind it. He stood 
 still before me with the words : ' You are surely also a 
 Suabian V 'Yes, and whence are you ?' I replied : 'Half 
 a mile from Oppelsbohm is my home.' That was a pleasure! 
 I enquired of all the settlers thoroughly al)out their circums- 
 tances. Their unanimous testimony is that any body pos- 
 sesssing 1,000 marks (i|2.')0) can settle in the bush. The 
 proceeding is as follows:— The month of Sei)t('mber is used 
 to select the land. The Provincial Government of Ontario 
 gives to each settler of over 18 years of age, male or 
 female, married or single, 100 acres of land ; a married couple 
 therefore receives 200 acres, and for every child of eighteen 
 years an additional 100 acres. He who resides six months 
 every year on the land, has built a house 16 x 20 feet and 
 cleared at least 10 acres of land, receives the land as his pro- 
 perty. Till then he is secure in possession (as soon as he 
 has built his house and cleared two acres of land), so that 
 nobody can take it from him. 
 
 "As soon as the lot is selected, the man enters the land with 
 sufficient provisions for the winter, cuts the timber for his 
 blockhouse and trims it. When it is ready for erection he 
 asks his neighbours, who help him to put it up. This 
 labour usually requires from 10 to 14 days. Then he clears 
 two acres of land near the house, and so he awaits the 
 winter. 
 
 " The winter is employed to cut more wood, which is 
 burned during the following summer. In June this work 
 has to be finished and the land to be planted with potatoes, 
 spring wheat etc. The garden also is arranged, and if every- 
 thing goes well, a clover field for the cow that has mean- 
 while been bought. A few pigs get fat by winter. 
 
 " Thus the settler is prepared for the next winter, which he 
 
6 
 
 uses again for cutting wood, and so things repeat themselves. 
 It is calculated that an industrious man will, besides his 
 other labour, clear every winter five acres of land, so that he 
 has at the end of five years at least 25 acres under lull 
 cultivation. 
 
 •• About this time also the stumps on the land first cleared 
 begin to rot away. If he has a team of oxen, which as well 
 as the Canadian horses, are much more powerful than ours, 
 he can even do more. 
 
 " Hence it will be observed that with the necessary dili- 
 gence the settler can obtain during the first year enough to 
 supply his absolute wants ; in the second year he can 
 obtain a comfortable subsistence, and in the third a small 
 surplus. Then he can also attend to other things : he begins 
 to sell honey, cheese and cattle. But in any case the settler 
 retains in his own pocket the value of his own la])our 
 (cleared lands costs $20 to the acre ) 
 
 " But people say : "Well, but life in the backwoods is 
 dangerous ! Not at all ! I have not heard of one instance 
 of a wild beast (a bear or wolf; hurting a man. I was told 
 that the bear at the worst sometimes stole a lamb, for in 
 summer he lives on berries, in winter he sleeps ; the wolf 
 hunts deer. 
 
 " Another thinks : Yes, but life in the backwoods is so 
 very lonely. Solitude ceases only too soon. Good land 
 becomes populated with overwhelming rapidity. Where 
 five years ago no human foot had trod, there are already 
 hundreds of homesteads, and I am certainly not mistaken 
 when I say that in ten years the shores of the Nipissing will 
 be nearly equal to those of the Bodensee. 
 
 " The great Pacific Railway passes near by (it is now in 
 course of construction) and in the direction from south 
 to north the North Western Railway will also be continued 
 to this district. 
 
 "The future, therefore, will not lack rapid transport for its 
 produce. At the present time the mail route goes from 
 Rosseau to within three miles of the Nipissing. To the 
 right and left of this road there are thousands of acres of 
 the best land. The forest is full of game, the lakes abound 
 
in the best of fish. 
 
 " On the shores of the Nipissing there are twoKiuv and grist 
 mills. But what is most to be considered is the extniordinury 
 •alubrity of the country. There are no physicians since they 
 would lack occupation. This (country 1 consider eminently 
 suited for Wurtemburgian immigration. 
 
 " It is easily accessible (and the Government pays the poorer 
 immigrants their journey from Quebec to Uosseau, and 
 thence still further freight for their baggage) ; it is salu- 
 brious ; it is fertile. As far, however, as the inhabitants 
 are concerned they are mostly Swiss and English The 
 Sabbath day is hallowed here in the wilderness — the 
 seventh house built in any neighborhood is to all intents a 
 church. (Montreal hiis 164 churches, that is to say on(^ lor 
 every thousand inhabitants.) The people possess manners 
 and general education ; eagerly they await the latest news- 
 paper ; in every blockhouse belonging to an Englishman 
 you will find books. 
 
 *' For five days I travelled in the woods in good health, and 
 found everywhere hospitable shelter. There can be no 
 question as to solitude, for colonization i)rogressos too 
 rapidly. In over-pop alated countries, the law of battle ibr 
 life is said to be justified and to be a law of nature ; here 
 in the backwoods there obtains the law of mutual assistance. 
 Of course one neighbour does not take upon himself his 
 neighbour's labour, but ho assists him, where the other is 
 incapable of doing any piece of work alone for himself; 
 for instance in the erection of a house ; and I also believe 
 any person in real need would not ask for assistance in vain, 
 
 "Thus, through personal observation, I have become ('on- 
 vinced that this portion of Canada is for our Suabians a 
 country that offers all the advantages of their fatherland, 
 without offering any important disadvantages in comparison 
 with their homes." 
 
 These remarks were entirely corroborative of the views 
 expressed by Professor Kaderly, in a report made four 
 or five years previously from which the following extract 
 is taken. 
 
 " Having upon Mr. Beatty's reiterated invitation, made his 
 
8 
 
 farm our hoad-quarters, we began our explorations with the 
 Low«^r Naiiianiiifroiig or South River as it is called by the 
 BoilK'rs Iroiii its last lalls, the future head of steam navigation, 
 down to ils mouth, a distance of about three miles. Naman- 
 itigong, the Indian name, means 'Paint River' from the 
 dark iron rust colour of its waters, which at their head, and 
 during tlu'ir upi)er course dissolve great deposits of a dark 
 yt'llowish iron ochre. 
 
 " T\w lonuginous impregnation in the river water is so 
 8lrong, lliat a white linen two inches under the water ap- 
 jH'ars ass yellow as the ochre itself in its solid state and that 
 the ebullition of a quantity of its water leaves an ample resi- 
 due ol" iron oelire at the bottom of the vessel. 
 
 " The river bottom also is formed by the same metalliferous 
 Nubstanee. The water soft by its other qualities, is very 
 ])ala(uble and wholesome in the highest degree by its ferru- 
 ginous impregnation and is preferred to spring water by the 
 seitlers, trappers and Indians, although good and well sup- 
 plii'd natural wells are abundant in the neighbourhood. The 
 banks of the river are high and crowned with a luxuriant 
 vegiMation, which is rellected with such a clear res- 
 plendence in the smooth liquid mirror, to which the metal- 
 literous impregnation and the rusty bottom serve as an araal- 
 gani. that the navigator in his Indian canoe believes himself 
 on a novel aeronautic excursion through a labyrinth of rich 
 cascades, suspended in the air. Oak, maple, beech, birch, 
 balsam, white and red pine, hemlock and alder in the lower 
 lands, iorni the growth of the forests with a great variety of 
 underwood. The trees are generally sound and of a good 
 height. Fine agricultural soil, a sandy clay loam, is found, 
 with small rockv patches onlv, all alonsr the left bank of the 
 river, w hereas the right bank is generally rocky and broken, 
 with a few smaller spots only of good land and becomes 
 swampy towards the lake, where the river submerges the 
 lower lands in the freshets. 
 
 " The Namanitigong widens from 60 feet at the head of 
 navigation, to 200 feet near the lake, has an average depth of 
 16 feet, and is consequently navigable here for middle sized 
 steamers plyitig on the Nipissingand on the French River. 
 
 i 
 
9 
 
 '* On our second exploratory excursion we followed up the 
 river for several miles in a south easterly direction, and devi- 
 ated then at a right angle to the south west, in the direction 
 of Routh and Jessy. We met with the same predomination 
 of h irdwood in the forest growth, with a thicker crust of 
 humus and a deeper Eubsoil of a greyish argill. The country 
 here is broken by upheaval in places, but nowhere to such an 
 extent as to seriously interfere with successful agricultural 
 settlements. A range of hills of a height from 250 to 800 feet 
 begins near the mouth ot the Namanitigong and follows an 
 almost south-westerly direction to a distance of about ten 
 miles, as I could observe ; but probably much further. I 
 made the soulh-east slopes of this hill range the object of my 
 third exploratory excursion. 
 
 "A few erratic blocks of trap and porphyry obstruct in places 
 the course of a small tributary to the Namanitigong, which 
 winds its way at the foot of the hills. A few out-crops of 
 pseudo-granite and gneiss are perceived along the slopes. 
 Maple prevails here and the manufacture of maple sugar is 
 carried on occasionally by the settlers and trappers of the 
 neighbourhood. The soil on these slopes is a diluvial loose sedi- 
 ment of a sandy, gravelly argill, much resembling the soil of 
 the vine-growing hills on the shores of our lakes, in the 
 French Cantons of Switzerland, and the climate on the south 
 shore of Lake Nipissing is exceptionally mild for that lati- 
 tude, the south-east slopes of the hills are facing the morning 
 and noon sun, and are well protected against northern winds. 
 It is my firm belief that in the course of time vine culture 
 will be carried on successfully in that part of the Nipissing 
 district. 
 
 " Serious frosts, as I was told by the few local settlers, very 
 seldom set in before the b<^ginning of November, and none 
 before the middle of October, when the vintage can be over, 
 if the beginning is made with vine shoots of an early growth 
 from Geneva, Vaud, Neufchatel or from the northern vine- 
 lands of the Rhine. The climate of Canada, and especially 
 south of Lake Nipissing is nearly analogous to that of north 
 and north-west Switzerland. By the middle of April and on 
 the sunny hill slopes at the end of March, all the snow is 
 
10 
 
 away and the vine dressers' work in the vines can begin. 
 
 "The fourth and last of our excursions was to the Com- 
 mandos and Kestoul lakes, a distance of 14 miles from the 
 Nipissinj^ head of Navigation. A trail leads through a dense 
 forest of mostly hardwood trees, with a great number of 
 beaver meadows, some of them covering areas of ten acres. 
 These natural meadows owe their origin to the industry of 
 large beaver colonies. 
 
 " The sagacious and laborious animals dammed creeks and 
 rivulets here centuries ago, and thereby submerged great ex- 
 tents of Ibrest lands transforming them into beaver lakes, on 
 the shores of which they established their colonies, and con- 
 structed their two-story dwellings. The stagnant water soon 
 attacked and putrihed the roots of the forest trees, they fell, 
 one after another, decayed and saturated the water with the 
 substance of their decay, which in its turn precipitated that 
 substance in the Ibrnj of a black humus-deposit to the bot- 
 tom of the lake. In the course of time the beaver dam was 
 broken through by strong freshets, the creek or rivulet 
 resumes its former course in a narrow bed, and the land void 
 of timber now, was soon covered with a luxuriant carpet of 
 grass and wild flowers, a favorite pasture for the deer, and of 
 late a rich yearly hay harvest for the neighbouring settler. 
 
 "The land on both banks of the Commandos river, and on 
 the shores of Kestoul and Commodos Lakes exhibits the same 
 fertile soil that we found on the left bank of the Namaniti- 
 gong, but with a thicker and more regular crust of a black 
 humus, resulting from a more abundant decomposition of 
 organic matter. This tract of land is in fact the best of the 
 whole area I had occasion to visit during the four days* 
 excursion. 
 
 " The left bank of the Namanitigong may nevertheless be 
 preferred perhaps by the first new colonists on account of the 
 proximity to the little village of Nipissing of i he future steam 
 communication with the Greorgian bay and the Ottawa Kiver, 
 the nearest markets for their agricultural products, and 
 finally of the greater facility to establish and' build a waggon 
 road to and through the colony as there exists a wide trail 
 of several miles' length, already from Mr. Beaty's farm to Mr. 
 
11 
 
 Shaw's saw and grist mill, constructed some years ago at the 
 Upper Namanitigong Falls ; but out of working order now. 
 It is thus not only possible, but very probable that the pio- 
 neers of this future colony will establish their camp and 
 build their shanties on the banks of Namanitigong, but will, 
 by a yearly numerous addition of immigrants, take up gradu- 
 ally that whole number of townships and parts of townships 
 encircled with dotted lines on the adjoined map. 
 
 " Before leaving the Nipissing settlement 1 had a walk over 
 Mr. Beatty's farm, which is reported to be the largest and 
 best in that part of the Parry Sound district. 
 
 " Mr. Beatty has 400 acres of very good land ; about 100 
 acres are already under cultivation, whereof 30 acres are fine 
 meadows. He clears out 20 additional acres now every year. 
 The stumps are removed four or five years only after the 
 clearing, when the roots begin to decay. The farm has a 
 numerous and fine living stock, consisting of horses, oxen, 
 cows and pigs. There is new a large and commodious new 
 dwelling house and about a half-a-dozen outhouses, stables 
 and barns, the latter full to the tops of the roofs. Mr. Beatty 
 sold for |2,000 the surplus of his produce from the last year, 
 principally hay, oats, potatoes, peas, beef and pork, and had 
 an ample provision left for the yearly domestic use of his 
 large i'amily. His present market is the extensive timber dis- 
 trict of Mattawan rivers, whither he transports his surplus 
 with his own teams during the winter months. 
 
 " Mr. Beaty srave the following average quotations : — 
 ' •* Hay. — Cuts from IJ to 2^ tons per'acre ; sells it for $40 
 to $50 the ton. Oats— Sowed 2^ bushels to the acre, reaped 
 45 to 50 bushels per acre ; sells it at $1^ to $1| the bushel. 
 Barlky — Sowed 2 bushels to the acre ; reaped 25 to 30 
 bushels to the acre ; sells them at |1| the bushel. Potatoes — 
 Planted 20 to 2'> bushels to the acre ; Harvested 800 bushels 
 to the acre ; sells them at 60 cents to |1 dollar the bushel. 
 
 " All other grains, as wheat (summer wheat and winter 
 wheat), corn, rye, maize, millet, etc., prosper as has been 
 ascertained ; also hemp and flax, melons, tomatoes, and all 
 the sundry kitchen vegetables Kruit trees are being planted 
 now, and Mr. Beaty is confident that he will have a very fine 
 

 12 
 
 orchard in a few years. The lakes and rivers abound with 
 the best fish ; venison also is in great abundance — a whole 
 deer from 2| to 3 dollars. 
 
 " The geological features of the Lake Nipissing Shore 
 District, are of a decided plutonic but nowhere as far as I 
 been able to ascertain, volcanic character. Important geo- 
 logical revolutions seem to have taken place here during the 
 last epoch of the secondary period in the formation of our 
 globe. Great fluid masses of a gneissy granite, and of a 
 metamorphous diorite heaved through the crystalline for- 
 mations which overlaid them, and forced their w^ay through 
 the transitory and secondary crusts, emerged by the Waldean 
 group, submerged it and cooled down. Small Iragments of 
 mica schist and argill acinous slate, grey wacke of the Devonian 
 formation. Lias and Waldean clay of the secondary period, 
 brought up by this upheav^al as also the many different met- 
 amorphoses, which the two eruptive masses contracted in 
 breaking through these different formations tend to argue the 
 truth of this supposition, although to establish the full cer- 
 tainty, a more careful investigation would be required than a 
 simple observation in passing by. Time was short and not geo- 
 logical discoveries, but agricultural explorations were the 
 principal objects of my expedition to Lake Nipissing. I may 
 state here, however, that a careful geological survey would 
 very probably result in the discovery of considerable deposits 
 of good iron bet\veen the head-waters of the Namanitigong 
 and Commandos rivers, the waters of both, but especially the 
 former, being very lerruginous as mentioned already in a 
 former paragraph. I found fragments of iron ore near the 
 mouth of the Namanitigong and on the right bank of the 
 Commandos, near the new road, but had no time to look for 
 the site of bedrocks. Grraphite is in situ in pseudo-granite 
 about a mile from Mr. Beaty's farm. A neighbouring trapper 
 exhibits a fine specimen of copper ore (sulphurets of copper 
 and iron) w^hich he found in situ somewhere on his hunting 
 grounds, but declines to part with his secret Specimens of 
 gold-bearing quartz have often been seen, as I was told, in 
 the hands of Nipissing and Ojibbeway Indians, who oc- 
 casionally come to the Village of Nipissing from the north 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 ' 
 
 i 
 
13 
 
 shore of the lake. Coarse lime is found near the Upper 
 Trout Lake, north east of Lake Nipissing. 
 
 " In passing Maganetawan on our homeward journey, we 
 paid a visit to a fine, well managed farm in the neighbour- 
 hood. Mr. Matheys the proprietor, is an Hanoverian by 
 birth and carries on farming in a German style, which, in 
 many respects, is more rationnl and consequently more profit- 
 able also than the one generally' adopted in Canada 
 
 " His live stock is the best we have seen yet in this 
 country. The farm comprises like Mr. Beaty's at Nipissing, 
 400 acres of very good land, of a\ hich about one-fourth is 
 under a careful cultivation and tw enty additional acres are 
 cleared out here also every year. There is something of a 
 homely attraction in the cleanliness and the general good 
 order which prevails throughout that whole farm, and in its 
 picturesque situation on the right bank of the Maganetawan, 
 which agreeably surprises the visitor, and invites him to a 
 longer stay, than ours could possibly be within the few hours 
 only we had to spare. 
 
 " Recapitulating the results of our limited exploration, we 
 find, that the south east shore of Lake Nipissing, the ])anks 
 of the Namanitigong and Commandos Rivers and the shores 
 of Restoul and Commandos Lakes, an area of about 200 
 English miles, including lakes and rivers or about 80,000 
 acres of good agricultural land (lakes, rivers, and the rocky 
 patches excluded), afford one of the most favourable sites for 
 a new agricultural colony. 
 
 " 1 he striking resemblance which that part of the Nipissing 
 District bears to the north west Cantons of Switzerland by 
 its numerous fine lakes, the mildness and great wholesome- 
 ness of its climate, and the extraordinary fertility of its soil, 
 would make it a splendid new home for Swiss immigrants to 
 Ontario, in whose hands there would soon flourish a " new 
 Helvetia in Canada," as rapidly prospering as her elder sister 
 colony " New Berlin " in the County of Waterloo. The two 
 Swiss agricultural labourers, who accompanied me on my 
 exploratory expedition, are highly satisfied with our results, 
 and communicate them now to their relatives and friends at 
 home. Switzerland, with a population of almost three 
 
I 
 
 14 
 
 millions to an area of little over 500 Geographical square 
 miles of agricultural land and mountain pastures, has not- 
 withstanding its great industry and its flourishing com- 
 merce, a considerable surplus of inhabitants, which is 
 con lerba lanced by yearly omioration to the different points 
 of our globe, where land is in excess and consequently settlers 
 and labour wanted. The Swiss remains more attached to 
 his native country even where settled abroad, than emigrants 
 from other nationalities generally do. He may for the benefit 
 of his domestic affairs and for the welfare of his family, become 
 a citizen often of a foreign country, but he never relinquishes 
 his love and attachment for the Alpine home of his child- 
 hood and his youth. The Mother Country returns the filial 
 affection of her sons, even after she had to give them away 
 to a foreign land. She watches their steps from the distant 
 shores, and rejoices in their success and prosperity in the 
 new home. 
 
 " That the district from which I now return, may soon 
 become such a happy home to hundreds and thousands 
 of his countrymen, is the sincere wish of your obedient ser- 
 vant, (Signed) Jacques Kaderly.*' 
 
 "While these statements were more immediately written 
 for the information of Swiss and German settlers, they con- 
 tain matter of great value to all others whose tastes lead them 
 to prefer the kind of country described to the treeless plains 
 of the west. 
 
 The descriptions of country contained in the preceding 
 pages, are very strongly corroborated by the elaborate work 
 recently published by Messrs. A. Kirkwood & J. J Murphy, 
 on the " Undeveloped Lands of Northern and Western On- 
 tario," from which the following facts are condensed : — 
 
 North and west of Lake Nipissing the land is good, and 
 there is more fertile arable land in the country on the west 
 bank of the Ottawa above the Mattawan, than on the banks 
 below it. A line drawn from Lake Nipisdng to the lower 
 end of Lake Temiscaming with the Ottawa to north and 
 west, and the Mattawan to the south would form a rough 
 triangle, enclosing an extensive area of good hardwood land, 
 in every way well adapted for settlement, touching on one 
 
16 
 
 side a great navigable reach of the ( >ttawa, and on the other 
 a large lake which at small cost could he rendered easily ac- 
 cessible from lake Huron, and on the very route which must 
 be used lor the timber trade now extending to Lake Temis- 
 caming. Lake Temiscaming with its tributary the Hlanche, 
 which enters at its northern end, presents more than 120 
 miles of unbroken navigation. It is the great basin of the 
 ( Htawa and drains an area of over 19,000,000 acres. The 
 Blanche is navigable 60 miles above the lake and for that 
 distance the country is level with very good land as far 
 inland as has been explored. It is a valley extending to an 
 unknown distance with a rock foundation the same as the 
 most productive lands in Canada, and a climate fully equal 
 to any on the north shore on the St. Lawrence. 
 
 Between Lakes Temiscaming and Abbitibe (80 miles in a 
 straight line), the soil is generally a level alluvial over a 
 limestone formation with a heavy growth of hardwood 
 timber and within the latitude of 49°. Mr. Marcus Smith 
 says in his Report of Exploration 1876 : — " Near the west 
 end of Lake Nipissing, there are extensive flats of good land. 
 Up the River Beuve which flows into the north side of the 
 lake near the west end, he travelled two days, and found 
 very fine land covered with soft maple, birch, ash, &c." "The 
 land in the valley of the stream appeared very rich, covered 
 with maple and other hardwoods." South of Lake ISipissing 
 from the hesd waters of the Mattawan, westward, there is a 
 tract of land of good wheat growing quality, extending 60 
 miles. South-east from Lake Nipissing to Lake Opeongo — 
 tne first twenty miles is all good arable land, and about two 
 thirds of the remainder is good with hardwood timber. As- 
 cending the South River of Lake Nipissing, land of excellent 
 quality is found far into the interior. All of the interior 
 country is well watered, with valuable water powers and 
 interspread with groves of white pine of the best descrip- 
 tion. 
 
 FARMING ON FREE GRANT LANDS. 
 
 As respects farming in the Free Grant Districts of Muskoka 
 and Nipissing, the following remarks are taken from an offi- 
 
16 
 
 1^ 
 
 5^ 
 
 ');■ 
 
 fet ■ 
 
 cial pamphlet published by the Ontario G-overnment : — 
 
 The Free Grant Act was passed in 1868, only eleven years 
 ago. The territory was then absolutely a wilderness. Fif- 
 teen townships were first opened for location. There are 
 now ninety-four. The portion of the Free Grant territory 
 known as the Muskoka, Parry Sound, and Nipissing districts, 
 now forms a Parliamentary Division, with a representative 
 in both the Federal and Provincial Legislatures ; and a 
 region that in 1868 had scarcely an inhabitant, has now a 
 population of some 30,000 souls. Portions of the territory 
 are under license to lumberers ; this affords a great deal of 
 work and circulates money among the settlers. Bracebridge, 
 the chief place in Muskoka, is a busy centre, while at Parry 
 Sound, on the Georgian Bay, are large mills and other estab- 
 lishments connected with the local industry. 
 
 The climate is not, for Canada, intensely cold, nor yet dis- 
 agreeably warm. It is unquestionably healthy. Fever and 
 ague are hardly known in Muskoka and the surrounding 
 regions ; pulmonary affections are also very rare. All the 
 cereals grow freely in the district, oats, barley, rye corn and 
 buckwfieat, especially. Wheat-growing increases as the area 
 cleared provides a sufficient extent of warm, dry land for its 
 profitable culture. F'or coarse grains and roots of all sorts, 
 the soil and climate are extremely well adapted, and the pro- 
 gress made has been most satisfactory. Indian corn was 
 raised by the aboriginal owners of the soil, long before it 
 was cultivated by the white man. An instance is mentioned 
 of 1,800 bushels of turnips being raised from 5 acres of new 
 land, not far from Bracebridge, a few years ago. All garden 
 stuffs, including radishes, carrots, peas, x^arsnips, celery^ 
 squashes, and tomatoes, grow in profusion. 
 
 Cattle require to be housed during the winter months, but 
 although this entails some provision for their shelter and 
 keep, the open season is, in Muskoka, eminently favourable 
 for stock-raising, Already there are several very large farms 
 for the raising of improved stock in the district. Tanneries 
 on a very large scale, flouring mills, and several other indus- 
 tries have been established. Every description of hardwood 
 grows in this region with great luxuriance. The whole conn- 
 
 '.hi 
 
It 
 
 try is full of small lakes and streams, the purest water abound- 
 ing in all directions. The soil however is exceedingly vari- 
 able. The Laurentian rock crops up freely, and at some 
 places, especially at the southern and western entrances to 
 the Muskoka district, frequently appals the new comer, with 
 its ominous appearance. But there is plenty of good land 
 nevertheless, and the abundance of moisture makes even some 
 rather unpromising locations far from unprofitable. 
 
 The question of funds is one that should be >vell consider- 
 ed by the settler. We have already pointed out that he must 
 have some means of existence while waiting, at all events, 
 for his first crop. In the case of a settler on free grant lands, 
 entirely new to the country the possession of some .£60, as 
 his first capital, is almost indispensable. For a family of 
 five, the following is an estimate given on authority of the 
 necessary outfit and supplies for the first year. A dollar is 
 about 4s. 2d., sterling, or for the purpose of rough cal- 
 culation, five dollars may be reckoned as representing one 
 pound. 
 
 Provisions necessary for a family of fire, say for one year : 
 « barrels of flour, at $5.26 per barrel |42 00 
 
 2 barrels of pork, at $13.60 per barrel 21 00 
 
 80 bushels of potatoes, at 60c. per bushel... 40 00 
 30 pounds of tea, at 60c. per pound 16 00 
 
 1 barrel of herrings 6 00 
 
 J barrel of salt ^.... t6 
 
 Cost of provisions 1130 16 
 
 SEED. 
 
 20 bushels of potatoes, at 60c. per bushel... $10 00 
 
 3 bushels of wheat, at $1.20 per bushel.... 3 60 
 10 bushels of oats, at 60c. per bushel 5 00 
 
 Cost of seed 18 60 
 
 $149 36 
 
 .OTHER NECESSABIEB. 
 
 laxe $1 60 
 
 1 grindstone 1 60 
 
 1 shovel 40 
 

 18 
 
 100 pounds nails 
 
 2 hoes, at YOc. each 
 
 3 reaping hooks, at 80c. each 
 
 1 scythe 
 
 1 inch auger 
 
 1 inch and a half auger 
 
 2 hand saws 
 
 2 water pails, at 30c. each 
 
 1 window sash and glazing 
 
 1 bake oven 
 
 2 pots, at $1 each 
 
 1 kettle 
 
 1 frying-pan 
 
 1 teapot , 
 
 6 small tin vessels 
 
 3 large tin dishes, at 60c. each 
 
 6 spoons 
 
 6 knives and forks. 
 
 3 pairs of blankets, at $5 per pair. 
 
 2 rugs, for quilts, at 60c. each 
 
 2 pair of sheets 
 
 1 smoothing iron 
 
 Ipig 
 
 3 00 
 1 40 
 
 90 
 
 1 00 
 1 00 
 1 60 
 1 60 
 60 
 
 2 
 1 
 2 
 1 
 
 00 
 00 
 00 
 00 
 60 
 50 
 
 40 
 
 1 40 
 
 26 
 
 1 00 
 16 00 
 
 1 
 2 
 
 00 
 00 
 60 
 8 00 
 
 Add one cow 
 
 Hay for cow, first year. 
 
 46 06 
 40 00 
 12 00 
 
 $247 40 
 Or ^£60 sterling. 
 But many a Free G-rant settler adopts a different course 
 altogether. The head of the family, or one or more sons, if 
 old enough, will leave the rest at home in some of the settled 
 counties, where they are either farming on a larger or smaller 
 scale, or getting a living in some other way, and, going into 
 the bush in Ihe fall, do a certain amount of clearing before 
 the others join them. If, too, a man is handy, and can make 
 arrangements beforehand for the partial employment of his 
 time at wages he may get a settlement by degrees and re- 
 linquish the hiring- out when his own location supplies him 
 
 V 
 
 r 
 fi 
 r 
 c 
 ] 
 
19 
 
 with sufficient employment. A preat many locations in the 
 Free Q-rants are taken up by small farmerp in Ontario, whose 
 means do no! enable them to place their sons on improved 
 farms, but v* ho can assist the younjr settler with a few 
 months' work at a time, especially in winter, when 
 chopping has to be done, and thus almost without money 
 ha gets in time a good farm. There are deer and other 
 game in the woods, and the lakes abound in fish, all of 
 which comes handy enough at a pinch. The latter enable 
 the younger members of a fnmily to contribute something 
 towards the furnishing ol" Jhe domestic board, but sport, 
 however healthy and pleasant, is very apt to disqualify for 
 more practical jnirsuits, and the concentration of the mind 
 on the farm exclusively will pay best in the long run. 
 
 A good autliority on such matters says : " The course for a 
 man with very small capital is as iollows : He goes on the 
 land in September or October and under-brushes as much 
 as he intends to clear the next spring. He then gets up his 
 house and prepares for the winter ; moving in his family, 
 either in the late autumn or the winter, according to the 
 state of the roads. During the winter he chops what he has 
 under-brushed, sometimes, but not often, a little more, 
 usually however, somewhat less. If he has made a fortunate 
 selection, and got good, dry, rolling ground ; if he is also 
 fortunate enough to have a good, dry, early spring, he 
 manages to get his chopping burned off and partly logged, 
 time enough to get in a few potatoes, some Indian corn, and 
 -possibly a small patch of spring wheat. All this helps his 
 family through the summer. By about September he will 
 have got a patch ready for winter wheat, which is then 
 sown and afterwards fenced." 
 
 The abundance of timber, both for fuel and mechanical 
 purposes, is one of the great recommendations to the Ontario 
 Free G-rants. 
 
 QtAME. 
 
 It may be of interest for many intending settlers to know 
 that there is a good deal of game in this part of the country 
 and no game laws to preserve it for the exclusive use of 
 
20 
 
 particular persons. Tho laws simply refer to confining knnt- 
 ing and fishin/;? to th(nr proper seasons, to prevent destruo- 
 tion during breeding Heasons, which would very soon have 
 the ettect of destroying the game entirely, and in this every 
 man in tlie country has mi interest, the property in 'game 
 being common to all. 
 
 The kinds found are the moose, caribou or deer, and tli<» 
 red deer. Of fur bearing animals there are thr silver gf^y, 
 red and black fox, the otter, marten, mink, musk rat and 
 raccoon. The beaver is getting pushed back to more n-rnoto 
 parts. A species of hare, (juite as good as the English hare, 
 is very abundant. Of birds there are almost every des- 
 cription, — swans, geese, ducks, partridges, quails, woodcocks, 
 wild turkeys, &c. There are some wild animals, such as 
 bears and wolves, but Ihey are not troublesome or dangerous. 
 The numerous lakes and rivers literally swarm with fish of 
 the best varieties, such as salmon trout, white fish, trout, 
 herring, maskinonge, bass, pike, pickerel and many other 
 kinds. 
 
 FREE GRANTS AND HOMESTEADS 
 
 Every settler over 18 years of age, is entitled by the law of 
 of Ontario to select or. hundred acres, and every head of a 
 family 200 acres iu the Free Grant districts. The patent will 
 not issue until the expiration of five years from the date of 
 settlement, and then he must have cleared and have under 
 cultivation at least 15 acres, and have built a house thereon 
 fit for habitation, at least 16 by 20 feet. He must further 
 reside on his land continuously for five years, not being 
 absent for more than six months in any one year. When 
 these conditions are fulfilled, the patent will issue, and the 
 settler will hold his estate in fee simple. 'I he settler is 
 allowed to cut such pine lumber as is necessary for his own 
 use, but he is not allowed to cut for sale. The object of this 
 law is in the interest of the settler to prevent these forests 
 from being used as grounds for cutting lumber and then 
 abandoned. 
 
 For the purpose of protecting a settler during his early 
 striiggles, his property is protected from ordinary seizure by 
 
 J 
 
 i 
 
«y 
 
 

 ■O-^rjfeiJvisiiigton 
 
 9iepbens' I. f 
 
 HuntPt. PdrrrPt^ 
 
 ^■2 — ^:*M>tUrh Kiuui/dy 1. 
 
 /'U. /j,<^* Hill ft, 
 
 Jlpl^f I, -. ^ i ■ 
 
 White 
 Books 
 
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 ELEVATED FOnfts^ 
 Punuelsu-chn li, " 
 
 Ft.hClulcotin n " 
 
 FOREST PLATEAU ■.^^.,,,,,^.1. ,^ . ,^ • .g^ ■ ^ .. 
 
 
 'itseailr'T't''' 
 
 
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 P^ 
 
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 Lomotfd '^'" 
 
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 /: 
 
 "^V, 
 
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 k-iJuin //f?ic< 
 
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 •C 
 
 k-^UBttU 
 
 V 
 
|I5 
 
 17 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 21 
 
 23 
 
 25 
 
 26 
 
 ^ ^ V V 
 
 3'^ longitude Woec 1^2° from Greenwich 
 
 1^1 
 
 
 fj^ 
 
 River 
 
 asci 
 
 Inios 
 
 
 lio^ 
 
 l!/ Lake, ^7 
 
 or 
 
 OtakaU 
 
 \ ^ ^akc IToClu»,>unkitt ^^'^ 
 Pttntatamcut 
 
 '\ LuU: 
 
 M .^i^-W Tzentaicat 
 
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 i-hyetffit\e 7^ 
 
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 T^ 1 ^ •"■Ad l-2iij :ijn'«i<? o^^ 'o ^icuncid ■ f , v.<, 
 
 
 SS'ii' a; 
 
 
 
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 lilcotin e^." 
 
 UNbuLATINQ 
 FOUEi T PLATEAU 
 
 
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 Cjn 
 
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 Futis 60 /«. 
 
 tcAeU « L. 
 
 Skookumcht 
 
 1^ 'It 'fT<'PP^»jyfV--er. 
 
 jIlD^ 
 
 
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 110 Vv_R<*i^'" 
 
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 Cache 
 
 
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 j*^ 
 
 
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 tf^v-r 
 
 I£01 
 
 
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 nnan Cr. 
 
 
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 u!l?'^'w'C ^'■"'■.'^ 
 
 
 
 ^Xoto'^^'l 
 
26 
 
 27 
 
 28 
 
 29 
 
 32 
 
 n 
 
 ' \X1 — ^~ — 1 J'' i- '- — \ 
 
 Mt. Fl/r 
 
 Fa Wf;f7.«jte 
 
 Mt.Crillot 
 
 >\^* I <Vl|>UNfAlNSp 
 
 
 fMrmff 
 
 iKrti 
 
 s^4 '/■ 
 
 Hcrb^litoii'i 
 
 
 'Little 
 
 (jJk % 
 
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 \R6^ 
 
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 A' 
 
 
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 ''^„ I Cuneiia 
 
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 lKlaniT'/'(\'p: 
 
 ^ 
 
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 trPPEB PORTION 1 
 of \ 
 
 BRITISH COLUMBIA! 
 
 « 
 
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 ^- 
 
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 •*t- 
 
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 Tin 
 
 
 n, 
 
 iaeo 
 
 
 eail 
 
 MA 
 
 vl 
 
 t'^Ht*-? 
 
 / Dunvegnn 
 
 h.Lalu ''It, Lnniliti 
 
 ^'^J^h 
 
 ;«n'3 I 
 v\."ljiUiUai{ or Eliiitiro 
 ' ,X B'.,,-J„ I. '■, 
 
 liii? 
 
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 t? \ VvT^ -^ fteaiA^^un ftwd 1866 ■ % %'^TfC5 /_ .^x_ ^ Trav\fs^ 
 " • s V<^ i^-Jjm^ErtBlngton 
 
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 L'i^i^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^. 
 
 
 StUlti^ 
 
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 . *•*"/•- «ll-'r. .1:) 
 
 «!b'l. Jaiiifta/ 
 
 Fr5 
 
 
 iLivbiiry I. 
 
 Vk. Banks f\ '. ' r. i-'-^S ^* - ^ i\ ,u 
 
 ^^*>'<. 
 
 'm. 
 
 Boat 
 
 vnx^M 
 
 J 
 
 ::'€ 
 
 Onmi!Ull»T\ v^-—*"^* '""■■'-— '— a i ozena i.. 
 
 T.OIldlia BT^"'! 
 
 ^.»2^^«**- 
 
 MBO 
 
 
 Canuiioiui 
 
 Old Fort* 
 
 Cottoi 
 
 B*«<^ 
 
 T "0* , N \ Chttcotin I., 
 
 \r.. 4. "VU.aS« XlorC'Au. 
 
 ■ uiKir^f ,. 
 
 jlle 
 
 [\etc''^aune 
 /^ Cache 
 
 
 
 V 
 
 '^^ 
 
 ^4- 
 
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 lylf^orbe 
 
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 piminic c^ 
 
 
 
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 51° 
 
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 ^/ 
 
 
 
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 ^ 
 
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 49'= 
 
 R 
 
 48" 
 
 Triaa, 
 
 gle 1- 
 
 n v^ 
 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 To find any place on tho mnp, 
 dr.iw a straisnt line from the 
 lotfers on tiie Ride to join a 
 piinilar line dmwn from the 
 iiuinerals on the top. 
 
 Alexiiiidria G 
 
 Anderson M 
 
 Ashcroft L 
 
 Habine Village E 
 
 Barkcrvllle E 
 
 Bulkiey House E 
 
 Cache Crook L 
 
 Cheinainus R 
 
 Chilco H 
 
 Chilliwhack Q 19 
 
 Clintoji K 19 
 
 Conrox...* ,...0 12 
 
 Cottonwood E 18 
 
 Courchan R 15 
 
 Dease House B 30 
 
 Dog Creek I ]8 
 
 Eltnore - E 32 
 
 18 
 17 
 20 
 31 
 20 
 31 
 19 
 15 
 17 
 
 Obelisk 
 
 English Factory E 28 Okanagan 
 
 KMqiiiinalt S lo Okanngan Mission 
 
 FortJinbino E 81 Old Fort 
 
 Fort (Jnlcotin (J 
 
 Fort Connelly D 
 
 Fort Fraser B 
 
 Fort (ieorgo C 
 
 Fort James B 
 
 Fort Wrangel D 
 
 Fort Rupert L 
 
 Fort She|)herd Q 27 
 
 Granville P ]6 
 
 ( 
 
 (^reat Slide a 
 
 Hnrvey Creek P 
 
 Jl. n. Co. Fort L 
 
 Hogeii's Landing E 
 
 Ho|»e p 
 
 H. 15. Co's. Trading Post. L 
 liKliiin Villiige A 
 
 Indian Village E 29 
 
 Kaiiilooi>« L 21 
 
 K I liiwalaks E 29 
 
 Kispyox E 30 
 
 Kootenay o 32 
 
 l^uldo •• 1> 29 
 
 JiacLaH..che I 20 
 
 Ladiier's Landing Q 17 T^te.JaunoC 
 
 Landing E 31 Van Winkle 
 
 ]aII<K>ot I, IQ Victoria.. 
 
 , - L 19 
 
 M'tfon N" 19 
 
 McDonald's Oil Springs.. E 31 
 
 McLuoci's Fort E 32 
 
 J^'-.tYIo Bay 
 M t,t.-<iui.. . 
 jMoodyvillo 
 Ivaiiaiiito 
 Nascotin Village 
 New Westminster 
 Kicola Lake 
 
 39 
 ]3 
 17 
 1> 
 28 
 7 
 
 11 
 iO 
 21 
 32 
 20 
 8 
 13 
 
 Old Fort 
 Old Fort 
 Old Village 
 Pemberton 
 
 3'incha 
 
 Port Moody 
 
 P(trt Essington 
 
 I'rinceton 
 
 Qucsneile 
 
 <iiieHnelle Forks 
 
 Richfield 
 
 Roman Catholic Mission 
 
 Soton — 
 
 Hhtooiht 
 
 8keena 
 
 Htula Creek 
 
 Homenos , . . . . 
 
 iSooko 
 
 Npence's ISridg^e 
 
 8t. Paul 
 
 Suinas 
 
 Tache 
 
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 4 )^ ^ Lonp'i<^^\f8t from 4 |,° Washington 
 
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 particu 
 ing and 
 tion du: 
 the effe( 
 man in 
 being cc 
 Thek 
 red deer 
 red and 
 raccoon, 
 parts. J 
 is very 
 cription, 
 wild tur 
 bears an^ 
 The nun 
 the best 
 herring, 
 kinds. 
 
 ,*■(, 
 
 .ili 
 
 Every 
 ofOntari 
 family 2( 
 not issu< 
 sftttlemei 
 cultivati( 
 fit for ha 
 reside on 
 absent fo 
 these con 
 settler "v^ 
 allowed i 
 use, but 1 
 law is in 
 from beir 
 abandone 
 
 For th( 
 struggles 
 
 •.jAnse*',; 
 
 m i 
 
 'iHtatti 
 
 I 
 
■•gWPjj^rWia I 
 
 21 
 
 a Homestead law. , ^ , districts should apply 
 
 ected by the nearest Dominion Agent. 
 
 ^^^J<: 
 
 I