■^'iL. & Ax. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. o {./ 'S «'. 9 :/. % C/.A 1.0 2.8 I.I 1.25 1-15 SSI .._ 1.4 M IM M m 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 4 V # f^ :\ \ 6^ % 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^ ^^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibiiographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographical!/ unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. D D D D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagde Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaur6e et/ou peiliculAe Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque I I Coloured maps/ Cartes giographiques en couleur □ Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) I I Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ D Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ ReiiA avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La reliure serr^e peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge intirieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajoutAes lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela 6tait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6t6 film6es. Additional comments:/ Commentaires suppi^mentaires; L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-Atre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la methods normale de filmage sont indiqu6s ci-dessous. Tl tc I I Coloured pages/ D D Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommagdes Pages restored and/oi Pages restaur^es et/ou pellicul6es Pages discoloured, stained or foxet Pages d6co!ortes, tachet6es ou piqu6es Pages detached/ Pages ddtachdes Showthrough/ Transparence Quality of prir Quality indgaie de I'impression Includes supplementary materif Comprend du matdriei suppi^mentaire I I Pages damaged/ I I Pages restored and/or laminated/ I I Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ I I Pages detached/ I I Showthrough/ nn Quality of print varies/ I I Includes supplementary material/ Only edition available/ Seule Mition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been ref limed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont M filmAes d nouveau de fai^on A obtenir la meilleure image possible. Tl P' 01 fil O b( th si 01 fil si 01 Tl St Tl w M di er b( "1 re This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film6 au taux de reduction indiquA ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X ^P 16X 20X Zl 26X MX 28X 32X Th« copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: Library Division Provincial Archives of British Columbia The images appearing here are the best quaiity possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or i'lustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol ^^- (meaning "COI^- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: L'exemplaire film* fut reproduit grAce A la gAn6rosit6 de: Library Division Provincial Archives of British Columbia Les images suivantes ont 4t6 reproduites avec ie plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettet* de l'exemplaire film«, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprimie sont filmAs en commenpant par Ie premier plat et en terminant soit par la derniire page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration. soit par Ie second plat, selon Ie cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont film6s en commenpant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la derni^re page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaTtra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon Ie cas: ie symbole — ► signifie "A SUIVRE", Ie symbole V signifie "FIN ". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmis d des taux de rMuction diff^rents. Lorsque Ie document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est filmA d partir de Tangle supArieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant Ie nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES; WITH A TRIP ACROSS SOUTH AMERICA. BT HENRY E. CROASDAILE, HETIRED LiaCTBNAMT, B.V. LONDON: THB TOWN AND COUNTRY PUBLISHING COMPANY, LIMITED, 23. WABWICK LANE. PATEBNOSTEB BOW. 1873. r,3> ■t —•-•■»■■»■' V PREFACE. .# In offering to the Public these few imperfect sketches of what the Author saw, did, and heard, while sojourning in the far West, he desires not to lay claim to originality — for he believes that many similar incidents are far better described elsewhere by more able pens than his, and he has trod on no new ground — but to rest his plea for their acceptance on whatever merit they may possess as being, to some extent, the records of a naval officer's life while serving on the Pacific station. He made little or no effort to collect information about persons and places, which a more experienced writer would have done, but contented himself with simply jotting down his own experiences and thoughts, and any little incident communicated to him in an ordinary way which he considered might prove interesting. If he may l^ve been a little inaccurate in some ■W <^»»6»»o I IV PREFACE. statements, it is only in trivial points, for which he * * would ask the indulgence of the reader, for there * is no intention to *' extenuate or set down ought in malice." It may be objected, and perhaps rightly, that he has entered too much into particulars of a certain kind, so he must plead in the words of honest Corporal Triro^ — " I believe, an' it please your honour," quoth the Corporal, ''that, if it had not been for the quantity of brandy we set fire to every night, and the claret and cinnamon with which I plied your honour off" — "And the Geneva, Trim," added my uncle Toby, *' which did us more good than all " — " I verily believe," continued the Cor- poral, "we had both, an' it' please your honour, left our lives in the trenches, and been buried in them, too." ' ill he there rht in lat he sertain honest J your ad not ) every ^hich I Trim," re good the Cor- honour, iiried in SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. CHAPTER I. "A Oastilla ya Leon Nuevo mundo dio Colon." Not many years since, it was ordered, by an econo- mical Board of Admiralty, that the oflScers and crew of the flag-ship on the Pacific station were to be relieved, and a new ship's company was sent out in a line-of-battle ship (an almost disused class of vessel, except for such purposes) to Panama, which Isthmus they were to cross by train and take possession of the flag-ship, the old crew of which was to return again to " Merry England " in the line-of-battle ship from Aspinwall. Amongst the new " lot " was the writer of these pages, who will hereafter be dis- tinguished by the personal pronoun "I," and who, if the reader has enough spare time to follow him, will introduce him or her to scenes and people in the " Far West," and endeavour to interest to the best of his powers. As we leave the familiar waters of the Atlantic behind, and approach the mighty continent— large B V t. 2 SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. im> ,' w districts of which are still new, and waiting to sur- render the riches of their mountains and plains to enterprising man — on which I hope to spend many days and see something of its forests, prairies and streams, and also to have a peep at brother Jonathan in his own abode, I shall commence this journal and jot down any incidents of travel, and of '' flood and field," which it may be interesting to refer back to in future years. It was in the month of January, 1870, we ap- proached the shores of America. To many of us it was a first visit, and, therefore, we eagerly watched the nearing land, to gain an early impression of the New World. The view of Colon, or Aspinwall, as the Americans always call it, did not impress us very deeply with a sense of its importance, its only claim to notice being that it is the terminus of the railway, which was, perhaps, the most enterprising undertaking ever accomplished, until the Union Pacific Railway was constructed. All that could be seen from the ship were a few houses standing amid some cocoa-nut trees, on a low shore, along which a heavy surf was breaking — a long shed and buildings on the right, showing the position of the railway station. The neighbouring country was covered with a mass of thick, impenetrable-looking jungle, spread over ranges of low hills. The bay swarmed with sharks, several of which we caught while lying in the roads. To facilitate the disembarking of the M 'Ht;:;.'.' SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. large number of men we had on board — ^nearly eight hundred — ^we went alongside one of the wharves, and thus had the benefit of a railway running almost up to the ship's side, and were able to put all the baggage and stores on the luggage cars as they were landed. Soon after the old ship had thus settled to rest from the fatigues of her journey from England, some of us sallied forth to have a look at the town. Drink- ing bars and hotels were the predominant features in its long and one-sided street, and dirt, curs, and ugly negroes abounded. Not long ago this place was periodically the scene of great bustle and acti- vity; the hotels crowded, the negroes, whom we now see loitering idly about, busily employed as porters, and trains travelling across the Isthmus laden with passengers and freight. This was T^^fore the railway from New York to San Francisco was finished, and when great tides of people flowed to and from California. In the first six months of '68, thirty-six thousand passengers passed through As- pinwall. The steamers from New York were fre- quently so crowded that there was not sufficient accommodation in the town for them, and often the steamers from Panama to San Francisco were not large enough to carry them on. I have been told of men offering three and four times the passage money, in order that they might not be left behind. Aspinwall is situated on a small island some three . ■'. B a SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. miles in circumfcrenco, which is divided from the mainland partly by lagoons and partly by swampy morasses, which render its climate a most un- healthy one for Europeans. The Monday following our arrival, the first division of officers and men started to cross the Isthmus. Wo fell in on the wharf alongside the ship, and marched up to the cars, the drums and fifes leading. It was something new to Jack, crossing an isthmus by trains en masse, and every- one was in the highest spirits. All were in, the engine gave its hoarse whistle, and we slowly glided away from our romaining men and officers, through a crowd of yellow, chattering negroes, along the street of Colon — for the line occupies its centre — where, in the balcony of an hotel, we saw the flag-captain— a general favourite. Cheer after cheer saluted him as we passed, but the train moved quickly on, and, in a short time, we took what seemed likely to be our last gaze at the Atlantic for some years. The Panama Railway was commenced in 1848, and finished in about seven years, after many difficulties and interruptions had been met with, and successfully surmounted. The cost per mile was something over thirty-three thousand pounds, and it is said that a life was lost for every sleeper laid down. The greatest difficulty was obtaining labourers, for the climate was dreadful, and the SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. powerful malaria arising from swamps and masses of decaying vegetation was the deadly foe to be encountered. Natives, Chinese, Negroes, Irish, Germans, and Americans, were successively h. 'Ught to complete this mighty undertaking, and to nearly all it proved fatal ; for few, very few, • ut o'" the hundreds who worked on that perilous railway, survivea. There were men breathing fever wuding b ,amps, fighting pumas and alligators, eaten by noxious insects, evading boa-constrictors and other reptiles, all for a couple of dollars a day. Well may it be called the *' almighty dollar ! " Negroes from the Southern states, and workmen from America, bore the climate best, and finished the work. The vegetation surrounding the line was most beautiful. All the wild magnificent grouping and colouring, only to be seen in the tropics, was here visible to perfection. A rich, dense mass of mangoe and palm, of oranges, limes, and plantains, and thousands of shrubs and parasites, grew in glorious confusion, while here and there we came across a long half-hidden lagoon curving amongst the hills, and occasionally a glade of green grass enhanced the scene. How the enterprising Y& 20 de Balboa ever crossed that Isthmus seems a mystery ; what indo- mitable perseverance he must have possessed ! I can well understand his falling on his knees, when he reached the summit of the hill from which the Pacific was visible, and thanking God for prospering his SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. work so far, and allowing him to be the first European who had gazed on the peaceful blue waters of the wide-spreading western ocean. Doubtless a good deal of satisfaction at having his troubles almost over must have mingled with his expressed thanks. " He bravely accomplished his object, and took possession of the sea and all its bordering lands — having first waded into it, sword in hand — for His Most Christian Majesty, the King of Castile and Leon, his heirs and successors for ever." * But to return to our train full of blue jackets. The line at first led through low swampy jungle, and, at times, over almost shaky morasses. We soon, however, commenced the ascent of the low range of hills which runs the whole length of the Isthmus. The carriages appeared old and rickety, and vibrated tremendously, although going at a slow pace. About the time we gained the summit of the ridge, the train coming across with the first half of the old company of the flag-ship met us, and the two trains stopped abreast of each, other for some minutes. There was great cheering, excitement, shaking of hands among old shipmates, and enquiries about friends at home, fi:om neighboiu's who had recently left; bottles were passed and re-passed from train to train, and not half the little acts by which the men expressed their goodwill towards one « " West of the Missiseippi." Bichardson. SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. le first J waters btless a } almost thanks, d took lands — -for His ile and jackets. jungle, 3s. We the low 1 of the rickety, ig at a immit of first half and the or some I another was performed when the two trains sepa- rated and continuGu their respective journeys. We made a descent of about 300 feet, the incline being steeper on this side than the other, and found our- selves in the station, or under the railway sheds, of Panama. The old town of Panama, which was situated some miles to the southward of the modem one, is barely discoverable now — some ruined walls and grass-grown mounds being the only relics. Yet it was here the first Christian s^ .tlement was formed — the first impress of European footsteps made on the sands of the great Pacific. Vasco de Balboa, although the discoverer of the passage across the Isthmus of Darien and the existence of the rich countries of Peru and Chili, on the shores of the western ocean, was not fated to reap the benefits of his daring achievements, or to be amongst the first settlers on that distant shore. Pedrarias, who, though his father-in-law, was his deadliest enemy, took occasion to prefer a charge of disloyalty to the king against him, and, being governor at Santa Maria, had the power of appoint- ing the judges. Sentence of death was pronounced on this brave and noble man, and, although every exertion to mitigate the punishment was made by the colonists, including even the men who had passed his sentence, his father-in-law continued inexorable, and Balboa was executed; and the ,"'-i-' ■IT- '■w^»^a—p>nipiii— jpppwwnii .^■^, 8 SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. Spaniards beheld with astonishment and sorrow the death of a man who was universally esteemed and admired, and considered more capable than any other of their commanders of forming and accomplishing great designs. Pedrarias, notwith- standing the injustice of his proceedings, was shielded from the punishment he merited, and soon after obtained permission to leave Santa Maria with his colonists, and form a settlement at Panama, the other side of the Isthmus — thus it was that in the year 1517 the old town was founded. The modern town might well have been built even at a date prior to that I have mentioned — it was built, I believe, in the seventeenth century — so truly may it be said that its glory has departed ; what we behold to-day makes us but think of it as it must have been in former times. There stands its remarkable Cathedral, covered with moss, and showing many signs of decay; the front bears traces of having been at one time very handsome, and has the usual number of images of saints let into niches ; but these sanctitied old ladies and *jentlemen look con- siderably the worse for time and wear. There is the old crumbling wall surrounding the town, which must, in bygone days, have rendered it a place of great strength. There are the remains of monasteries and convents, towers and strongholds, and evidences of past wealth converted to the Tiae of present men- mcy on every hand, and all — save the European UL. SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. d quarter - alike bearing the marks of dilapidation and decay, The principal show of active life is at the American liquor bars, and at the landing-place where coolies are unloading lighters. There are many Jamaica negroes both at Panama and at Colon, the remains of the numbers imported to con- struct the railway ; they all speak English, and do the work of porters and servants. I was very much amused one day, while waiting at the landing-place, by a disreputable-looking gentleman of the race of Ham coming up to me, in an independent manner, and saying : " What man-of-war dat out dare, sar ? " I told him her name. "Is she English?" con- tinued my interrogator. " Yes," I replied. *' What she do here, sar ? " he inquired. I gave him a short account, when he said, with a manner half conde- scending and half apologetic : " You see, sar, me British subject, and feel great interest in English affairs, and wish to hear how she do, sar." After which he stuck his dirty old make-shift for a hat on one side of his head and walked off, evidently feeling the full importance of being a British subject, and hailing from the free and independent land of Jamaica. From Panama we went to Tobago, one of the many islands with which the buy of Panama is studded, to take in coal and water, it being used as a coal dep6t on account of the depth of water close to the shore, and there is a beautiful clear spring ^. ./ / 10 SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. just behind the little village. The island is very- pretty and picturesque, and produces large quanti- ties of fruit for the Panama market. Not long ago, the Pacific Steam Navigation Company had their chief dep6t here — ^their factories, store-houses, and a large staff of skilled mechanics and engineers, but they have now removed to Callao, and empty buildings are all that remain. There are great quantities of sea-fowl in the hay, as the many barren rocks and small isHnds afford peaceful opportunities for breeding. The great pelican is to be constantly seen making his vicious dives after little fish, which do not appear to have much peace, as they are chased by their larger brethren in the water, and winged tyrants when they show near the surface. The pelican can swallow some twenty or thirty of its puny prey whole, as I found on examination. Having coaled, &c., at Tobago, we weighed an- chor and commenced our first cruise in the Pacific, intending, if time permitted, to visit the Sandwich Islands ; or, if otherwise, to steer for San Francisco. As it is not my intention to enter into any descrip- tion of a tedious and monotonous sea cruise, but merely to speak of such places as we visit, I will lay aside my pen for the present. "PasB we the joya and Borrows sailors find, Cooped in their wicged sea-girt citadel; The foui, the fair, the contrary, the kind, As breezes rise and fall, and billows swell, Till on Mme jocund mom, lo, land ! and all is w«ll." ' ' IS very quanti- mg ago, id their and a jers, but empty- re great J barren rtunities )nstantly h, which 'e chased I winged ce. The ty of its 1. ghed an- B Pacific, kndwich 'rancisco. '■ descrip- uise, but I will lay 1. I well." CHAPTER II. THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS — DEBATING SOCIETY ON BOAED. We were about eight days from Panama, when we found ourselves not far from the Galapagos Islands, situated on the Line, a few hundred miles from the coast of South America. Great excitement prevailed on board when it became known that we should call at Charles Island, for any break in a voyago is pleasant and acceptable. All our sportsmen were on the qui vive ; guns and cartridges were brought to light, from cases where they had lain undisturbed since our departure from England ; no one talked on any subject but the pro- s'^'^-'tive immense slaughter of wild cattle, pigs, and wild-fowl ; and, had all these anticipations been carried into effect, our visit to Charles Island would have become a famous incident in the annals of the sporting world. On nearing the island, its volcanic origin became plainly visible, for most of the higher hillo were evidently extinct craters, and, so far as we could see from the ship, the vegetation consisted solely of dried-up brushwood, except towards the hills, where 12 SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. this occasionally assumed a greenish tint. Soon after our anchoring we were boarded by a boat con- taining half-a-dozen Spanish Indians — a colony numbering some five-and-twenty of whom we found to be on the island. From one of these, an intelli- gent fellow, we learned that numbers of cattle and wild-fowl were to be had, and that the reports we had read and heard of their existence were founded on fact. As the ship was only to remain till the evening of the following day, we immediately formed a shooting-party, leaving the ship in the natives' boat about noon. But oh ! ye Gods ! how the prospect of coming sport warms the blood, raises the spirits, and makes the true sportsman eager for the slaughter. A mem- ber of our party — one of the excitable sons of old Erin — unable to restrain his passion for the sport until our arrival on terra firma, made the rocky shores ring again with his wild discharges at all chance sea birds that came within a hundred yards of the boat. Strange to say, however, these birds will carry a large dose of shot comfortably, and one after the other they sailed away in total indiflference to the efforts of our sportsman, till at last one stately man- of-war bird, hovering for some seconds within fifteen yards, was made *o feel the skill of our friend, when firing within a reasonable distance. We had to beat up some three or four miles along the shore, to get to the landing-place, which occupied a couple of SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. 13 liours. Our landing was rather difficult, owing to a heavy surf running on a shelving rocky shore ; but it was at length effected on the shoulders of our boatmen, and as some of us were fourteen-stoners, considerable amusement was caused by their narrow escapes from a ducking. At length we are all safe on shore, and away we start along a pathway leading straight inland, over nothing but dust and clinkers, with a perfectly dead and leafless bush around us. The farther we got from the beach, the more intense became the heat, perspiration was oozing from every pore ; but onward we steadily plodded, till at last, gasping and panting, we came in sight of what we were informed was the settlement. It consisted of some eight or ten tent /ormed of dried bullock-hides , spread over frameworks of sticks. Their dusky inhabitants were grouped around these with the exception of some who remained stretched out asleep under the tents, even our unaccustomed visit being insufficient to arouse these listless, lazy crea- tures to curiosity. We received considerable civility from the head-man, obtaining the requisite informa- tion as to the whereabouts of our game, and some half-a-dozen of his people to act as guides and assist to carry. A two-mile walk, with a gradual ascent, brought us to a much pleasanter atmosphere and increasing signs of vegetation ; trees appeared here and there, and the surrounding bush showed that it was pos- ■im^-' S3H 14 *fe 'H, SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. >^" sessed of some portion of vegetable life. Another mile and, on rounding the base of a large hill, we came on grassy glades, and in the distance patches of prairie, with cattle grazing on them, were dimly visible. Now we advanced more cautiously, taking advan- tage of every leafy covering which offered, and peering through boughs into the openings. At length a herd of some thirty or forty was discovered graz- ing quietly, in imagined safety, within a hundred yards of us. Too much eagerness to fire, and the spirit of rivalry which invariably shows itself amongst a large party, prevented a proper amount of execu- tion being done. One calf, however, bit the dust, and a young bull was brought on his knees, though he soon regained his footing and followed in the wake of the rest of the herd, leaving a trail of blood behind. We now divided into two parties, one going in pursuit of the wounded animal, the other stai ting for a lake some distance off, where we were informed wild-fowl and more cattle would be met with. The party which followed the herd of cattle consisted of myself and two others. It was hard work pressing on at a rapid pace over broken ground, through thorny thickets and pathless jungle, but we were re- warded in the end by sighting the bull in a patch of thick scrub close to a small clear stream of water. He was lying down, and glared fiercely at us as we approached, but a bullet from one of our guns enter- ing the fleshy part of his shoulders served to rouse SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. 15 )ther milo 3 came on )f prairie, y visible, g advan- red, and At length jred graz- hundred and the f amongst of execu- the dust, )8, though ed in the 1 of blood him, for, with a great effort, he staggered to his feet and charged right at us ; we leapt nimbly out of his way, and, fortunately, saved ourselves. It was the re- sult of his expiring strength, for, though the impetus of the charge carried him on a little farther, he came down head fii'st, bending the neck half under the body by the force of his fall. After the excitement and hard work of the chase, we were very glad to slake our thirst at the little stream and rest ourselves; we then proceeded to our rendezvous, some large rocks near where we had separated from our fellow sportsmen. The scenery viewed from this spot was very fine ; around all was green, except where some huge barren rock reared its head from amidst the foliage, the dark colouring of many of the tro- pical plants contrasting with the brighter grass. On one side was the hill which lay between us and the settlement, and which had presented a very uninteresting appearance from the sea, having only rocks and scrub right up to the edge of the crater. But the view it now showed was very different ; this side of the crater had been entirely torn away by some mighty convulsion of nature, and the interior, being exposed, revealed one mass of beautiful vege- tation sloping down from the opposite side. On the other hand, the country declined down to the sea in a succession of valleys, which were thickly wooded. The plateau on which we stood was surrounded by hills of various heights, many of them extinct vol- / 16 SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. canoes. Amongst the rocks we found the parent spring of the stream filling a natural basin in the centre of a thicket, which made a pleasant shady retreat from the heat of the sun while we awaited the return of the others. They had been very suc- cessful, and had bagged thirteen brace of ducks and a young pig. As the shades of night closed over the sylvan scene, we retraced our steps to the settlement after a very fair day's work, considering we were perfect strangers to the locality. It was now we found the natives useful in carrying the meat down to the settlement, and they engaged to bring our prizes on board early the next morning. After a wearisome march, we arrived at the village, and, wishing to remunerate our attendants, we gave the head-man a dollar and a half (value 6s.) to distribute amongst them, but they would only take half a dollar, a case of honest modesty beyond all under- standing, a Liimilar one, I may safely say, it had never been my lot to witness previously. The head- man in a civil manner offered any of us who liked to stay on shore accommodation for the night — of what kind I do not know — and promised plenty of shoot- ing next morning, which was, he said, the best time for sport. However, such a villainous stench per- vaded the whole camp, from decaying meat and cattle hides going through the process of drying, that none of the party felt inclined to accept the oifer ; or, as an American would say, could prevail on his the parent Eisin in the isant shady we awaited n very suc- ' ducks and ed over the ! settlement ng we were iras now we meat down ) bring our g. After a illage, and, ve gave the ,0 distribute take half a I all under- say, it had Thehead- vho liked to ht — of what ty of shoot- :ie best time stench per- at and cattle g, that none )jffer; or, as irail on his SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. 17 nose to give a ticket to remain. After a couple of miles' walk in the dark, during which some of us were constantly knocking our shins against the rough stones bestrewing the path, we arrived at the landing-place, and wore again carried througli the surf to the boat, getting on board about 10.30 p.m. The next day another party went shooting, and had good sport. Two boat loads of officers and men also landed for the purpose of hauling the seine, or large net, supplied to the ship. The dress of officers when going for a day's seining is of a very nonde- script character ; the opportunity is seized upon for appearing in the oldest of coats and inexpressibles, well provided with ventilation-boots, which are sure of letting water out as well as in, and, in fact, the general appearance is presented of gentlemen who have had only naval half-pay for some time past upon which to support tliemselves. A good supply of stimulants is always provided to prevent catching cold and rheumatism. Though going nominally for the purpose of fishing, many took their guns, and the scene was more likely to frighten a nervous actor in it out of his wits, than to cause him to feel perfectly at ease, as a continual popping of guns was going on all around, and dead and wounded birds were continually fal%g amongst the fishermen, for many sea-birds — pr in ;.ipally pelicans — were collected round by the sight of fish on the beach and in the shallow water. Sharks also showed the greatest au- c it% SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. dacity, following the captured fish in the net, close up to the shore ; several small ones were caught in it. One of the officers was most pertinaciously at- tacked by a small shark, who followed him into shallow water, a,nd only that he fought hard with a boat-hook which he had with him, and repelled the attacks, he would most likely have suj)plied tlie shark with a delicious meal. The boats returned to the ship in tlu vening- with enough fish for several days' consumption, if the heat of the weatlier had permitted of their being kept. On the 5th February, we spread our wings for a very long flight — possibly, as I said before, to visit the Sandwich Islands, and, if not, for San Francisco — our orders being to arrive at Vancouver's Island by the end of April. However, man only proposes, and unfavourable zephyrs delayed us so long near the Equator, that we shaped our course direct for the Golden City, and had to look forward to visiting the islands another time. Time hangs heavily at sea, and, though perhaps it passes a little faster when once the monotonous round of every-day rou- tine is got into, still there is little active employment, and few events to mark one dav from another. Seeing these things, the captain interested himself very much to give us some amusement at least once a week, and a debating society was started, which met on Wednesday nights, and to which the crew 'i^i SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. 19 were admitted as listeners. Religion and present politics were prohibited. A week's notice was given of the subject, of the introducer of it, and the pro- poser and seconder of his vote of thanks. After these prescribed speeches had been delivered, any- one was allowed to express his opinion. Some of the best subjects we had were " Warren Hastings," " Charles I." *' Superstition and Mesmerism," &c., and though, occasionally, when business was dull, we had to I'sten to dry discourses on '* Salt Water," and some uninteresting statistics of the American navy, yet, as a rule, these evenings were anxiously looked forward to and much enjoyed. ■ ■■X4 ^ c 2 CHAPTER III. ARRIVAL AT SAN FRANCISCO — A TRIP UP THE SAN JOAQUIN RIVER. After passing some sixty days at sea, the frigate to which I belonged might have been seen, on a bright, pleasant day, steaming and sailing up the narrow passage which leads to the harbour of San Fran- cisco. It is supposed by many that the large harbour of San Francisco and its many bays, together with San Pablo Bay, originally formed an inland sea, which eventually burst its barriers at the "Golden Gates" (as the entrance is called), and becamo united with the ocean. The appearance of the gates justifies this theory, for the lieadlands and bluffs on each side are bold and massive, and, so far as can be seen from the water, ranges of hills extend on each hand, which appear calculated to keep the waters back to all eternity. So it is probable that the place where the Golden Gates now open was the one weak link in the chain. Approaching the city from the sea, a, "^ery fine view presents itself, and one on which Califomians properly pride themselves. ■Vfiij,. SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. 21 THE SAN The hills on either side are of a soft, undulating appearance, and are clad in a bright verdure from base to summit. How pleasant and refreshing they looked, after a couple of months on board ship ! Here and there small villages, or the < >litary home- stead of the farmer, surrounded by ^ tie results of his labour, nestling in some pretty valley. As we round the last bluff which shuts in the city, the large bay, bordered by picturesque hills, spreads itself out before us. Many steamers and sailing craft ply their busy mission across its peaceful waters, pointing out by their course the direction where many rising towns Jie hid amidst the distant valleys. Lying to the right of the bay is the golden city itself, that proud boast of California, rising over several hills, and presenting an uninterrupted view of its lines of long, straight streets, and square blocks of houses. There was a great deal of shipping lying in the harbour and alongside the wharves, but they were mostly small craft, engaged in the coast and harbour trade. The inhabitants of San Francisco we found most kind and hospitable. On a first visit to a port, it takes some time to form an acquaintance with people, but we soon found that here the inhabitants were most willing to meet our advances half w&y ; invitations were issued for an afternoon dance on board, and before long our slight friendship ripened into intimacy. Gaieties and amusements were the 22 SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. order of the day. A box at the opera was kindly placed at our disposal, and many of the officers took advantage of it. ,4 Game abounds in great quantities and varieties in California — deer, bears, and almost every descrip- tion of feathered game and wild=fowl. Unfortunately, we arrived just at the termination of the shooting season, and the only birds at all available were snipe, which, as migrators, do not come under the game laws. My friend H and myself, when on shore, soon after our arrival, heard of a very good place some eighty miles up the San Joaquin river, where, as a rule, the snipe remained later than else- where. The place named was a ranch or farm, situated in the Tule lands. These are large tracts of low lying country bo .dering for many miles on the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers. Little of these tracts is at present reclaimed, but they con- tain many a rich harvest for the agricmturist of the future. We made up our minds to accept the invi- tation of Captain F , of the " Amador," one of the San Francisco and Stockton river boats, to accompany him on his upward trip; so, having obtained a few days' leave, we packed up some traps, and started from the wharf in the afternoon. The *' Amador" steamed through the long harbours towards the Strains of San Pablo. Hills rose on either side, their grassy slopes, dotted here and there with herds of grazing cattle and sheep, looking i' j.JM. ^ j...a i iiimwu) i!— WW— SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. 23 r boats, to beautiful in the soft light of the evening. Occasionally we saw a farm-house peep out from amongst a clump of trees, with its canopy of light smoke floating in the evening air. Soon we passed the Straits, and San Pablo Bay lay befo;e us, surrounded by similar green hills and grassy plains ; while a gorgeous sunset bathed the scene in a rich flood of light, reflected in the rippling waves, and over- hanging circles of clouds. " Day closes, and the sun, though weary, Still lingers in his own loved west, And sheds around a golden glory, Ere yet he sinks to his evening rest." The scenery along the river was all fine, though somewhat monotonous. The first town we touched at was Benicia, from which Heenan, the prize- fighter, took his nom de guerre of the " Benicia Boy." We had no opportunity of visiting this classic spot, for we just ran alongside the pier, and, with a bustle and scramble, were off again. Two small towns, called New York and Antioch, were our next stoppages, around which a considerable quantity of land was under cultivation. Antioch is a rising town of some little importance. The coal is shipped here from the Black Diamond mines of Mont Diablo, whose summit is visible, towering like a giant above the surrounding hills, from a considerable distance. Undulating ranges occupy the space between Antioch and the mines, and over these the coal descends on T?T!^P?9fP!BP' 24 SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. trucks, coming the entire distance of thirty-five miles without the use of steam power. We originally intended to visit a ranch belonging to a family named Webb, but, as police-constables say. " acting: on the information we received " as to tie scarcity of snipe there, we determined to go some ten miles further up, and stop with a man named Harrington, who was in charge of a large ranch there. About eleven o'clock wo approached Harrington's cottage, and a few shrill calls from the steamer's whistle brought him down to the end of a rough little pier he had run out for the conve- nience of communicating with the steamers. We tumbled out with our traps, and in a moment more the ''Amador" was lost sight of in the dark- ness, leaving us standing face to face with the man we had aroused out of bed at that untimely hour, not quite knowing how to apologise for our- selves, and explain matters. However, a word or two put things all right, and he conducted us into his house, which was a small wooden aifair, con- tainir.g three rooms ; two on the ground floor, and the one up above where my friend and self stretched, ourselves out for the first peaceful sleep in a steady bed which we had enjoyed for months. Next morning we sat down to breakfast at a little after six o'clock, for early hours were always kept in this establishment. Mrs. H was, of course, our cook, and a very good idea she had of how to prepare a .•■■# SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. 25 thirty-five 1 belonging 3-constables ceived " as nined to go vith a man of a large approached lis from the the end of r the conve- imers. We Dment more I the dark- iG with the at untimely 2^ise for om'- a word or cted us into affair, con- d floor, and 3lf stretched in a steady nths. Next 1 little after kept in this se, our cook, to prepare a breakfast. We were suddenly transported from the unpleasantness of salt meat and hard biscuit, to which a mess is reduced at the end of a long sea voyage, to a choice rejDast in a land literally overflowing with milk and honey. Bittern was our principal dish ; it was the first time I had tasted it, and liked it very much. Quantities of nice, brown, home-made, wheaten cakes, cream, butter and eggs, made up our meal. During our stay, Mrs. H kept up the first impression she made, by her continued good cooking. She gave us a variety of American dishes, including the miners' favourite, bacon and beans. We spent our days in hard walking over soft boggy land, and bagged a good number of snipe, ducks, and bitterns, starting immediately after our early breakfasts, taking lunch with us, and coming home in the twilight to a cheerful inviting meal ready spread, or waiting on the stove and Mrs. H smiling a welcome. The good people were very much jjleased to have us with them, as for weeks they f jr jtimes went without receiving a single visitor. During our short stay I learnt more incidents of rough American lift than I before had had a chance of doing. Harrington was a thorough specimen of the enterprising shrewd American. He was born in Ken- tucky, and had been accustomed to the woods, and the use of the rifle, from a child ; he afterwards went 26 SCENES ON PACIFIC SHORES. to Missouri, where he saw most of the turmoils and lawlessness of that state, where street fights, election rows, bowie-knives, and revolvers were the order of the day. He afterwards crossed the plains of Central America with a party for the gold mines ; but, as each evening was spent in listening to his stories and anecdotes, I will give his account, in his own words, as near as it was possible for me +o write it down during my stay. The narrative has no pre- tension to any extraordinary amount of interest, but still, it is one applicable to large numbers of cases, and descriptive of the dangers and trials the all-powerful allurements of the gold mines are capable of causing their votaries to pass through. ..,-'