IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. O A Ua v. 1.0 I.I 1.25 1^ M2^ 12.5 •tt 1^ 12.2 it lis IM 1.8 U IIIIII.6 % ^ y] A P^-> '^^ y f^ ^^7 ^'/^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques 1980 Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techriiques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6tA possible de se procurer. Les details de cat exemplaire qui sont peut-Atre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mdthode normale de filmage sont indiqu6s ci-dessous. 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Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required The following diagrams illustrate the method Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent etre film^s d des taux de reduction diff^rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour etre reproduit en un seul cliche, il est film^ d partir de Tangle sup^rieur gauche, de gauche ^ droite. et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n6cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m^thode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 m TH A bCOTIA" LAND "I- I-A'ANGLLINI-: i{KAthi;i» IN r» r., 17 iioi,i??s us : niKiNAu.^cn Tiiss'.cc): ■ft ^"^ ^-^ - r , LD NOS (EN ANGE. f^Jfc^ /"O-O An yu^-fL-y^o- c« ^MSTCHLFS PUR6 FRUIT SYRUPS."^ FLAVORS. Blackberry. Blood Orange. Oherry. Coffee. Ginger. Ginger Ale. Lemon. Limes. * -* Directions for Use. One table spoonful or more to a ((lass of ice, soda or any aerated or spring water. PFeRPAF^ED B^• FLAVORS. Pineapple. Raspberry. Easpberry Shrnb. Easpberry Vinegar. Eed Currant. Sarsaparilla. Strawberry, Vanilla. Price for each Flavor. 75 cents per bottle. $7.50 per dozen. THEODORE METCALF CO., 39 Tremont St., and Copley Sq., Boston. '/■ -»>»- fouRisTs' Clothing CLEANSED OR DYED. -O Tennis Suits and all kinds of clothing for Men, Women and Children cleansed or dyed. The best work possible to be done. ^ liEWATf DO'S §^ French Dyeing and Cleansing Establishment, 17 Temple Place BOSTON. ' * 365 Fifth Avenue, NEW YORK. + BUNDLES SENT BY MAIL OR EXPRESS + »Rin> FOB PRICE LIAT. ESTABLISHED 1B29. LARGEST IN AMERICA. HOTEL LORNE Yarmouth, N. S. EXTENSIVE improvements having just been completed in this house, it now possesses 'fifty Bedrooms, Ladies' Parlor, two Gentlemen's Parlors, Billiard Rooms exclusively for guests; Hot and Cold Baths, Electric Bells, and all modern improvements. This house is conducted on first-class principles, and will be found equal, if not superior, to any house in the Lower Provinces. The LoRNE has one of the largest and most elegant Dressing Rooms in the Province. Passengers on the boat have ample time to get breakfast before the train leaves. The Hotel is only three minutes' walk from the wharf.* Terms moderate to transient and permanent boarders. : ^ " Livery Stable in connection with Hotel. Cabs always in attendance. i' ^ __ J. H. HURLBERT, Proprietor. S W E ETSE R'S "GUIDE" BOO K^ T~-: -^-.^.^^ .•••••• flH^^-^^ — " Incomparable hand-books for the tourist." —A'. )'. Et^eHing Post. THF MARITIMF -^ (iuldetothc chief Cities. Coasts, and Islands of the Maritime Provinces of Canada, and to their .Scenerj' and rinrlii/kiAI-r^ Historic .Attractions : with tiu- C.ulf and Kiver of St. Uwrence to Quebec and Montreal; al.so Newfoundland and PROVINClSi the Labrador Coa.st. With 4 Maps and 4 I'lans. Revised for 1892. i6nio, jd-fo. ■• \oii should take a good guide-lxM>k Sweetser's Maritime Province* U by far the best — contamingeverythinK almut tlie various parts of the Provinces." — British American Citittn. THE WHITE '^ t'Uide to the Peaks. 1'a.s.ses. and Ravines of the White Mountains of New Hampshire, and to the Adjacent Railroads, HiRhwavs. and VillaRes: with the Lakes and Mountains of Western Maine, also Lake Winnepesaukee and the Upper MOUNTAjNSi Connecticut Valley. With 6 Maps and 6 Panoramas, including the new .Appalachian Club M.ips. Revi.sed for 1892. i6mo, f 1.50. NEW '"^ (Juide to the Chief Cities and Popular Resorts of New L'.ngland, and to its Scenery and Historic Attractions. With the _. 1/. . .,_ Western and Northern Borders from New York to Quebec. With 6 Maps and 11 Plans. Revi.sed and enlarged for 1892. ENGLAND. i6mo.$..5o. SOJjU HY HOOKSJBLLBBS. sent, POSTPAItt, BY HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN & CO. BOSTON, MASS. THE YHRMOUTH STEAMSHIP CO. (litv^itedj e^v.TfVlMm* THROUGH TICKELTS AND S-TATEROOMS can be secured In advance upon application to the following agencies; also from all agents on the Windsor & Annapolis. Western Counties and N. S. Central Railways, Davison's. Staillng's and Balcom's Coach Lines: Hodtno, Maa«. New Turk, X. T Worr««ter. Mi Lowell. Lyan. ttalem. Haverhill. Wobnm, Nnrthaniploa. Ma.vnard. HprlnKfield, W»lthani. Taunton, PItchburK. •« M •4 »* M •« •« •• M •« M •• «• »4 • • w I G. HALL & CO., M Chatham St. THOS. COOK & SON, OTJ WashinRton St W. H. EAVES. " Parker HouHc." RAVMONI) & WlinCOMH, •.".m Washinjrton St THOS. COOK & SO.\. •JilJ Hroadway. CEO. Y. LANCA.S IKK. tM Main Strwt. • W. I.. CJIl'KCH & CO. 0. F. RAWSON. R. W. WHKEI.OCK, .W E!»8e.x .st. DENL'^ MLRrHV, i» Appletun St. WALDO TIIOMKSON «: SO.N, H» Central .Sq. W. IIAROV DAVKIN, '.Ml Essex St. FRANK K. WVMAN, :i- Park .St. D. HOOK & SON. FREDERIC B. LEEDS. J. \V. ARNOLD. 1. n. DEANE. E. S. BATCHELDEK, Main .«;t. R. Ci. MARSHALL, x: Hall -St. ARTHUR SANDERSON, .nm Crescent >t. H. \V. PINKERTON, ti Winthrop St. F. C. CURRIER & SON. (HIawa. tint. CA Wlnrlienn. Maaa (iardnrr, *• >'«rth .%dMini>< " ip«wirh. ** Kail River. I'rovldrnre, H. I. >ianrhe»ler, N. H. Yarmouth, N. S, Halifax. Aniia|Mtllit, ** I»«l»b.v. •• Bear Klver. •• llarrinKton. shelliurne. '• i.orkport " Liverpool, ■* l.nnenbnrK. " — • ■ >l. .lohn. >. B Toronto. Of the city, stay thy feet ! Rest awhile, nor longer waste ■» ' Life with inconsiderate haste." SWEET and balmy and joyous in spring-time ; transcendently beautiful and picturesque in summer; inspiring and uplift- ing in its peaceful autumnal e^iandeur ; restful and scintillating with beauty even when the white mantle of winter has been thrown over its varied landscai)e — the most magnificent, hospitable, health-giving, peaceful and alluring resting place ever set apart for tired and care-worn mankind — such is the province of Nova Scotia. Such, indeed, has it ever been, but it is not until these latter days of ours that its existence has become known to others than its open-hearted inhabit;mts. This is not a history of Nova Scotia. It is not a treatise on leciprocity or annexation. It is not even an adequate de- scription of the lovely province, for the writer, the poet, the artist has yet to come to the front who shall ,lo it fidl justice through either of these departments. Let these few lines stand, therefore, simply as a brief and modest suggestion upon that most absorbing of all the t(>pics of modern life — the annual vacation. "VACATION." \\ hat a world of meaning is wrapped up in tliat one t'amiliar, simple word! As inseparable a part of our present existence as the very work from which it brings surcease, the spending of our annual vacation has come to be almost a science in itself, and days and weeks are spent in the attempt to figure out the complicated problem of where the "best time" can be spent amid the newest and most pleasant of surroundings, with the slightest expenditure of time — and cash. With the modern American there is no question as to the vacation itself. It must be had, whatever the cost to him or the discurangement of his business affairs, and the year that finds no vacation chronicled in his diary is a year that is to be counted h>st, indeed. The man and his family who dwell in the city have got to go away to some place that bears some sem- blance, at least, to the countr\ , for a week or a month, and the tendency is to lengthen this period of annual rest rather than shorten it. But where to go ? ' ' i, ' ' T That is the most important part of the question. It is an undeniable fact that the popular vacation resorts of this country, numerous and beautiful as they are, are yearly becoming more and more passe, and the great American public, particularly that portion of it residing within the borders of the New England States, is becoming more and more restless and dissiitisfied, and is looking around eagerly for •' greener fields and pastures new." New Hampshire has its White Mountains, Maine its woods and lakes, \'ermont its green hills and New York its Saratoga and Catskills and Adirondacks; but all these, beautiful though they are, are old and oft-explored, and that means the death penalty for a summer resort in these days of restless activ- ity and universal desire for something new. In this b''issed land of ours there is nothing tliat man can want in reason that is not ac his hand ; and so it is in this emer- gency. Right at the very deople a very Garden of Eden, which can never grow old or tame, where there is room and hearty welc<»me for all who can possibly wish to come, and where the New Englander who once tarries will ever leave his heart. It is a glorious summer garden, this rock-bound, verdant, beautiful, romantic province by the sea. Several hundred years have rolled by since this magnificent outpost of the great Canadian Dominion was discovered, but the work was poorly done, and it is but recently that its real discovery has occurred. Perhaps it would not have been dis- covered yet had not the Adirondacks and the White Mountains come to be such an old story. Slowly and surely, however, the fame <,f this favored section as a health-giving, restful, inspiring place of simimer resort has been spreading abroad, and the annual exv>dus toward its shores has assumed such proportions that an entire revolution in transportation facilities has been made necessary in order that the comfort and convenience of the thousands of tourists may be properly conserved. Happily, Nova Scotia itself has not been revolutionized, however, and it remains to-day, as it undoubt- edly will for years to come, the same unique and picturesque Bluenose land. Those who have found their way thither have stopped and seen and marvelled that such a lovely, romantic and historically interesting region has so long lain undiscovered and unexplored by the pleasure- loving Yankee; and their wonder las deepened into profound admiration as its superb natural beauties and thoroughly local characteristics have gradually been unfolded to them. " surely there can be on earth no fairer spot than this ! " they have exclaimed, as they have rambled through its leafy and balsamic forests, sailed upon or bathed in its pure and sparkling waters, fished in its winding rivers, hunted upon its breezy marshes, or studied the numberless and varied industries peculiar to the countr}' and the quaint and curious characteristics of many of its people. Small wonder that they thus exclaimed! Surely the poei must have had in mind this beauty spot, when in reminiscent mood he wrote: is country, articularly issiitisfied, Maine its , beautiful tlcss activ- this emer- \ bountiful d or tame, who once ncc by the )vered, but been dis- nier resort ohition in its may be undoubt- ither have iiscovered rb natural 1 no fairer thed in its ind varied that they With favoring wiiuls. o'er sunlit seas. We sailed for the Hespe^ides. The land where golden apples grow But that, ah I that was long ago. There are three great features about a vacation in Nova Scotia that will appeal to everybody, aside from the natural attract- iveness of the place itself. It is quickly and comfortably reached, it is a new and unique country when you get to it, and it is a very inexpensive place to live in. Fancy Saratogian prices arc not yet known in Nova Scotia, nor are they likely to be for sometime; and the hospitality for which Nova Scotians have always been famous, particularly when their visiting Yankee cousins were concerned, has not yet become part of the stock in trade of Nova Scotia commerce. This being the case, you „ can spend a week at one of their hotels without having to contribute enough to erect a new building, and you can safely enter 1 into negotiations with a livery keeper without the fear of being obliged to pay the price of the entire tmiiout. But ai>out the getting there. Nothing easier in the world. The only problem is where to make your headquarters when you reach there. There are eighteen counties in Nova Scotia, and it is safe to say that there are an average of at least twenty-five towns or villages in each that vie witli each other in presenting the greatest number of attractions to vacationists ; so that, if a man or woman took twenty-five vacations a year there are enough places in the province to last them at least eighteen years. As most of us have onlv one vacation annually, however, it is plainly seen that none of us will have to worry about where to enjoy it, if we live to be centenarians. There are thousands now who are trying to make the best record in this respect, aiul many of them have been keeping it up for years; for the rule is that once a vacationi.st there, always a vacationist. The manner in which one shall spend a vacation in the Lanil of Evangeline is, of course, dependent altogether upon the length of time given to it, as in all other places. If one is not hampered in this respect, a good plan is to spend a few weeks in leisurely travel through the province, in this way getting a comprehensive idea of its topography, and the characteristics and occupations of the thrifty people who itdiabit its different sections. One will find many interesting contrasts in both these respects, and not « few genuine surprises- Then the traveler can settle down for a few days or weeks in some chosen spot that has particularly struck his fancy, and gain the recuperative rest that ought to form the first principle of a vacation, vary- ing the programme from year to year, to suit one's self. If the intending tourist has a friend who has lived in or visited the 5 m ii ^1 ' t l)lace, tiio wiiole thinji can he settled in a iniiuite. Failing in that, tlie ^'.\KMo^ i ii Sri: amsiiii- C()MI'A\\ 's hurean of inform- ation can \\ iv successfully take the jilaco (f the •• friend in need" and he most happv to do so. H ow TO ' ' o 1 :t Tin -: km -: . " Nothing aside from the usual \acation preparations need he made, when tin- decision to <4() lias heen arrived at. The climate of Nova Scotia is not essentially different from that of New I'2nalls at Halifax. I'ogs are kept on hand on some ])arts of the coast, for the purjiose of heautifying the complexion, hut they are no wor.se and no more numerous than New ICngland fogs — not half so nuich, in fact, as some people ha\e been taught to heliexe. Nf) sleep need he lost, either, on a'coimt of that terrihle ogre, the customs officer. They are not half so much to he feared as the haggage man to whom you will have to en- trust your trunks in Boston. You can change your money into Canadian currencx heCore you start if you want to, hut il" you forget, there are a number of places in the province, notabh Yarmouth. \\ iuri' vou can get it exchanged at ])ar. 'I'his is one result of the close relationship that is growing between the two countries. The most imp()rtant preparation of all has yet to he mentioned, that ol puichasing xour ticket at one of the mmierous agencies of the ^ armoi i h Stkamshii' Comi'WV (a list of which is gi\en further on), and securing \our stateroom. If the " seascm" is well on, you will he wise to do the latter as early as possible, for while the splendid steamers of the line are as commodious as thc\ are comfortable and speetly. they ha\e a limit w hich is bound to be reached sonv time. Perhaps a wortl about these steamers, w hich iiave been termed '* the queens of the Hoston fleet," mav not be amiss right here. TheN are two in number, and are very a])propriately named after the two ports which form their terminii. Thev have become .so famous now that it is scarcely necessary to describe them. I'he contiast between them and the steamers that plied between the two sections previous to their advent is almost startling. The largest of the two, the " Moston," is a steel Civde-huilt boat, am' this is only her second season. She is ^45 feet keel, 35 feet beam with hold 7J^ feet and I2j^ feet, and has expansion engine of 4CXX) nominal horse power, two boilers and smoke stacks and a guaranteed speed of 1 7 knots. Bilge keels and all other modern improvement.s have been supplied. There are over So staterooms, and the total passenger accommodation is from 6 11 ot iiiform- f(l ;it. Vhv i lia\i' a tcn- lill clinihiiifj ble levees of )inL' |)arts of e\v iMvylaiul loiiiit of that ! have to en- >, hilt if you I'liis is one f numerous tirooin. If the line are Perhaps a leie. Thev hecoine so ied between built boat, s expansion nd all other tion is from Yarmouth. ,^ HI i-~ 9' 350 to 400. The (lininji; saloon is forward extending right across tlie ship, and is handsomely furnished. In addition there is a saloon aft on tiie same deck, and a gentlemen's smoking room and a ladies' social hall on the upper deck. There are five water-tight compartments. The cabins, saloons, staterooms, etc., are furnished in mahogan\ and maple, and upholstered ii\ Utrecht velvet. The ship is lighted by electricity, as in her companion, and each has an unexcelled culinary department. The " Yarmouth," though somewhat smaller than the " Boston," is not in the least behind her in respect to accommoda- tions and " modern con\eniences." She is also a Clyde-built boat, and during her several seasons on the route has become immensely popular. She registers 1400 tons, and is very speedy. Both steamers are in charge of experienced and well-known captains, and the courteous oHicers and crews are picked men, whose first duty is the welfare of their passengers. " Safety, speed and comfort," is the motto of the Y ahmoutii Stkamsiiii' Comi-anv, and altogether its steamers are conceded to be the Hnest of the coastwise Heet running out of lioston. Better than all, however, this line is the quickest by many hours to Nova Scotia, and, almost before he has realized he is at sea, the passenger is landed upon the shores of the picturescjue province. . And that brings us back to that vacation again. Having come from the suburbs of l^oston. New ^ ork. Western Massachusetts, or "'way down in Maine," as the case may be, the intending vacationist finds himself at Lewis Wharf, Boston, as much before the hour of the steamer's sailing, as his railroad oi' street car connections ha\ e allowed. Promptly on the hour the boat leaves her dock, bearing a happy and ex- pectant throng on her deck, and lea\ ing a wistful and en\ ious one on the wharf. Almost before she has got beyond hailing distance " full speed" is put on, not to be relaxed again until all l>ut four or live of the 250 miles of watery pathway have been covered. The varied panorama of Boston harbor, with its steam and sail crall. its islands and forts and public institutions, is i rapidly passed, Boston Light and the gilded dome are bidden an affectionate good-by, and with her log-line and black cloud of smoke trailing after her, the good steamer ploughs her rapid way toward the Bluenose land, which is to be reached at (la\ - light next morning, onl} sixteen hours from Boston. Dinner, an afternoon siesta, reading or chatting with companions or new-made friends, a lazy and restful scanning of the ocean with its scattered white sails; then supper, followed, perhaps, by [music in the cabin, another lounge on deck, with eyes already brighter, drinking in the fairy picture presented by the dancing [lights of the haddock fishermen circling around their vessel in their dories, serve to wind up the afternoon and evening. Then comes sweet sleep, if you are one of those who can sleep upon the water, a few more thousand re\olutions of the ponderous engines, and then daylight again — and Nova Scotia 1 7 ; '••■■'• ■ .,'''■■' \ \ :':■■ Tin: COTINTKV iTSBI^b And what is Nova Scotia? ■• Win, il is the iciiul of Evanjjeline, to be sure," replies the knowing American making liis first visit to the coimtry, at whose rugged gate we now stand, as tiiough I'^vangeHne and her sad story and the history of the unhappy Acadians were the Alpha an- )nntrv. if thi territorv an of the North liared with ii , is 300 mih - ted from tin :x),ooo in tin ■s, where Hsli arly one-fiftli s rich farms. » find simph its farms, iibitious turn nd once in a rom tlie cold her factor in Ithy ch'mates loted for the s in the first anted pretty DiGBY. When it conies to u question of what is to be iiad in the way of Hshing and shooting — very important features of a vaca- Jon place — the quickest and best answer is — everything. Transportation, too, is as easy and comfortable as anywhere, ['here was a time, not very long ago, too, when communication was principally by stage coach, a la the wild West; but to- lay the province is intersected by a half dozen well equipped railroads, bringing nearly every part within reach, and these are lupplemented by nearly twice as many coastwise steamship lines, so that one can get almost anywhere in a day. An order to ]>uy or sell stocks in Boston or New York, can be telegraphed from almost every point, unless, perhaps, you are in the woods |ifter moose or caribou, and the mail service is excellent. No, Nova Scotia is not exactly a howling wilderness. The inhabitants, who number 450,000, and are of English, Scotch, Irish, German and French descent, with a few ^housand colored people and Indians, are an exceedingly intelligent and hospitable people, and reasonably progressive. They bupport their religious institutions with an enthusiasm that speaks volumes for their integrity and uprightness, and educate Iheir children in free schools that are supported partly by the public and partly by local taxation. In commerce they cut a lost important figure, the exports of fish, coal, lumber, agricultural products and other commodities aggregating nearly >io,ooo,ooo annually. A very large proportion of this trade is with the United States, where thousands of Nova Scotians liave gone to live, so that the tie that binds the two sections together is a doubly strong one. An immense amount of shipping is owned in the province, its vessels doing a very large proportion of the carrying trade of the world. There are iron, cotton, sugar refining and other manufactures at some of the larger centres, but these are, perhaps, not exactly germane to a summer vacation. The Yankee tourist will find the conditions of government somewhat different when he gets under the union jack than in his own country. The province is governed partly by the general l.iws of the Dominion of which it forms a part, and partly Joy local laws enactod by its own Provincial Legislature. This body sits at Halifax, the capital city, and consists of a Legis- lative Council, or upper house, and a House of Assembly, or lower house. The head of affairs of the province is the lieuten- ant-governor, who is appointed by the Governor General of Canada, representing the Queen, and has an advisory Executive Council to assist him. The history of Nova Scotia, "boiled down" for vacation purposes, is something like this: The province was visited by tlie Norsemen, who evidently didn't know a good thing when they saw it, in the eleventh century, and who left it to be redis- covered by Sebastian Cabot in 1498. In 15 18 the Fvench attempted to colonize the country, as did the Portuguese in 1520 and 1530, when Joan Alvarez Fagundez, with a roval commission and two ships sailed with colonists to Cape Breton. The 1^' Portuguese n'cie largely unsuccessful in thcii attempts at coloni/atiou. The great hay lietweeu Nova Scotia aiwl New Hruiis- wick the\ called Hay I'oudo, from which i^ .lerived its present name, the May of Fundy. In 1^105 tlie first successful settle- ment was made hv Champiain at I'ort Koyal. In loji the territory of Acadie. named hy the ICnglish Nova Scotia, wa- granted h\ Sir William Alexander. In i6^j the conntrv reverted to I'rancc, hut Mngiantl again ca|>ture«l it in 1^154. New Knglandcrs .ook it in 1690. Seven years later it was restored to I'rance. Massachusetts recaptiued it in 1710. Finally, ii 1 713, the country was ceded to England, hy the treats of I'trecht. I'ort\-two \eletN and a light-houM- clad in perpendicular stripes t<» re- lieve it. It seems as though there were no opening there at all. Imt at last it appears, and the steamer, slowing down gradualh as it draws nearer to the entrance, finally sweeps into the long and .serpentine chaimel that ends its tortuous cour.se just wheri the still sleeping city of ^'armouth begins. In a moment the staunch ocean greyhoimd is at her dock, the lines are ma: oniinioii con- I it. liii*,' wall tha' stripes to ri- >\vii ;;ra(iiiallv se just when nes arc Diadi em arc j^oiii;; ' in other por- lore of thc-i On the Annapolis Basin, \\l 4 "Asa summer resort," says Bishop William Stevens Perry, who visited the place a couple of vears ago, "Yarmouth jiDssesses every possible attraction. The sea air is full of life, invigorating, bracing, and ' saltv ' even to the taste. The view of old ocean cannot be excelled. The drives, the walks, the baths are each and all of the best. Charmiu .;, comfortable houses are scattered over the various ridges along either side of the ' Cloven Cape,' and for beautiful homes, attn* tive scenerv, and delightful people, the Gate City of the province of Nova Scotia stands pre-eminent. The gate of Nova S- "lia opens to one all possible pleasures of the forest, the lake, the river and the sea." Thrift and decorum characterize the people themselves, their homes are all tasteful antl their stores neatly kept; churches te numerous, and there iij no poverty in the place. E\eu the common laboring men own their own little homes. A visit !re might give Henry George or Edward Bellamy some new ideas on the solution of the vexed social problem, The tow;i k large and prosperous, containing some 8,of}0 inhabitants, and has an electric lighting system, several public halls, and other #iodern conveniences. The fact that it is the Nova Scotian terminus of the Yarmouth Steamshii' Company is one thing lat assures its future prosperity. The beautiful residence of Hon. L. E. Baker, the president of the company, is one of the eatures of the place, and its doors are always hospitably open to visitors from " the States." The hotel accommodations of Yarmouth are fair, but they are soon to become imexceptionable, and another season will kobably see a Hne smnmer hostjhy erected. The climate during the vacation months is salubrious, the normal temperature ^eing 7° '" 75 (•• gices, and tb.e place is almost entireh free from fevers. Phe countr\ is level, affording magnificent drives all directions, and there ;(re abundant opportunities for salt water bathing and fishing not far from the town itself. Some idea of the o^jportimities foi" fresii water 'shing may be gained trom the knowledge that there are at least 250 lakes In Yarmouth county. Many of these are feeders a the Tusket river, a famous stream which finds its source away in the Juierior and empties into the Atlantic, at a point where hundreds of picturesque little islands are located. The river itself ♦ffords splendid trout and salmon fishing, while the islands form verv fine liead([uarters for wild fowl shooting in the fall and Ji^'inter. I'here are some who contend that the N'ortiimen visited the Tusket Islands, and certain pecidiarly marked stones lave been found there which seem to give color to this supposition. The Tusket Lakes are veritable beauty spots, where one tan forget the cares of the outside world if he can anywhere, and, altogether, Yarmouth and its surroimding country form a inique and picturesque section that must by no means lie passed by, no matter how anxious the tourist may be to get to the :rrander beauties beyond. On trying to leave Yarmouth for the interior of the province, the tra\cler finds himself at a cross-roads, so to .speak, for he can take l1i^^ choice of going to Halifax l)v wa\- of the south sliore and its steamer Hues ami stage coaches, or via Digby and the Annapolis vallev on the other side of the province, by rail. The local steamers of uie Yakmoutii Stkamsuip C''oMl'A^'^ will take him by the fonne\ route, allowing him to touch at Shelburne. Lockport, Liverpool, Lunenburg, and other interest- ing points en route; but perhaps it will serve as well to reverse the route and visit these places on the way back. This much decided, it onlv remains to bid our kind Yarmouth friends gooj-by, board the waiting train, which some imi- tative genius has nanie3 — ^KJFi- TTf-:^- \- Annapolis Basin and river, with historic Annapolis itself nestling almost out of sight in the misty distance. On our left w c would have seen — in fact, we can from the train now — the wonderful Dighy Gap, through whose mile-wide channel tin waters of the mighty Bay of Fundy rush in and out with resistless force, as the tides come and go ; Mt. Beaman, rising majesticall) on the one side, and the long North Mountain range running for miles and miles until it loses its identity in far- away Cape Blomidon, on the other. Then to the right of the beautiful basin we behold the gently sloping side of the South Mountain, dotted with smiling farms as far as the eye can reach, and begin to realize, indee- sibly be looked for in a watering-place. It is eas} of access — within 20 hours of Boston — and is a wonderfully satisfyin;^ place when you get there. Besides the transcendent natural beauty of its surroundings, it has the pu; est of air, the most equ;i- ble of temperatures, the most beautiful of drives and the best of boating, bathing and fishing pri\ileges. The ozone is a tonic, and you can take it on the ground Hoor, or at an altitude of 500 feet, just as you will. In fact, Digby is a sort of combi- nation of seashore and mountain resort, and is lapidly becoming one of the most popular vacation headquarters in the Domin- ion. The popidation of the town itself is quite large, and the people are awake to the value of their heritage. There arc already half a dozen small hotels and family boarding houses, with plans on foot for a big one. There has also been a com- pany organized for the purpose of building summer cottages, which can bo purchased or rented for a ridiculously small amount, and wiiich are doubtless destined to be very popular. Digby was originally settled by the loyalist refugees from New York and New England, l)ut their descendants do not cherish any hard feelings against their Yankee cousins, albeit they did have some little difficulty with them on account of a certain three-mile fishing limit law; so nothing need be feared on that score. The people keep pretty well informed on American aflairs, and will be found very liospitable. There are several churches, and the town can boast of, at least, some social life. Fishing still tonus an important industry of the place, although the glory of the once famous " Digby chicken " has largely departed, and there are extensive farms in the surrounding country. The points of interest near by are not a few . They include the beautiful Acacia Valley, to the south, where a new summer hotel has been erected ; the lighthouse at rock\ Point Prim, at the entrance to the wonderful Gap, and which can be reached in the pleasant drive of an hour or so; a drive to Bear River, the great cherry-growing centre of the province, some five or six miles awav ; a short railroad jaunt to Annapolis, or a climb to the top of Mount Beaman, where a magnificent and inspiring view of the country around can be Hill! Oil our left wr r so ; a dri\ c oad jaunt u> ound can In- I ad. Among the longer drives that can be taken are one to Weymouth, 23 miles distant, and another to Digb) Neck. This is i| narrow point of land that inns from tiie bead of St. Mary's Bay, on the opposite side from that on which the journey from a'armouth was made, and, including Long and Brier Islands, which are virtually a part of it, is about 40 miles in length. Jl'he most important settlements on this Neck are Waterford, 12, Centreville, 15, Sandy Cove, 20, and Westport, 40 miles rom Digby. These are all quiet little fishing settlements, Centreville being on the Bay of Fundy side of the Neck, and «'ova Scotian maritime life can be studied here in its present and most interesting form. There is a hotel at Sandy Cove, nd a daily stage runs the entire distance. The Neck averages only about a mile and a half in width, and some beautiful lews can be had from it. Sand as red as that of New Jersey forms a large part of it, and it contains a rich store of minerals. lany of these can be picked up on the shore by those who know minerals when they see them, and thej' include jasper, agate nd amethyst. Many other ways of spending a vacation in Digby will suggest themselves, and the man 01 woman who can- ot find some enjoyment out of a stay at this delightful place will never be satisfied with a \acation this side of the heavenly ingdom. Well may the local poet sing: " I'm going back to Uigljy, The heat is growing stronger, M I'm going back to Digby, I can stay here no longer. I want the cooling breezes With ocean perfumes laden, My heart turns back to Digby, And I must go." Just now, however, we are going away from Digby, regretfully, of course, but with the consoling thought that there are still other beauties ahead of us, and that we can return again, anyway. Our way lies along the southern shore of Annapolis 15asin, blue and sparkling in the summer sunlight, with just enough sail-craft moving upon its surface to prove that it is a ■reality and not a painting. We are still upon the rails of the Western Counties road, and shall be for the next 20 miles, until Annapolis is reached. This 20-mile stretch comprises the new extension of the railway, opened in 1891, after „Jiaving been talked of for a generation. It gives for the first time unbroken rail connection between Yarmouth and Halifax ;;'»nd the great outside world, communication having formerly been by steamer across the Basin, betw een Digby and Annapolis. m\ m It is not extravagance of language to b;iy tliat a more nuigniticent strctcli of lailwav does not exist in the Dominion ol' Canada, and, brief as has been its existence, scores of writers have aheady gone into raptures over it, and the artists and photographer^ are rapidly getting in their work. It fullv and triumphantly redeems the railway for the possible lameness of its territory between Yannoutli and Weymouth. Several bridges that have the honor of being among the largest and highest in the Dominion span the deep gorges and arc met at various points; and the train also speeds through immense cuts hewed in the solid rock. The view toward the Hasii, as the journey is made is simply sublime. As the traii\ passes over the long bridges at Grand and Little joggin (a nanu- that typifies "mitten" in the Micmac Indian nomenclature), a magnificent view of Digby Gap is had on the left, and an equally inspiring one of the beautiful Acacia valley on the right. Over ravines and through farms and orchards, past cjuaint little huts, from the doorway of which little Indian pajjpooses and their stolid-looking parents peer with interest, the train rushes on, the picture ever changing, vet ever the same in its general scope. The first importuit station, after leaving Digby is Hear River, one of the most delightfully located towns in tiie province. It is situated among the picturesque hills, on tlic banks of the river bearing its name, and has a population of r.ooo. Cherries grow here earlier and in larger quantities than in any other part of the country, and the exportation of these, the shipping of lumber and cordwood to the United States and West Indies, and the l)uilding of vessels, form the chief occupatit)ns of the people. Gold and iron are foimd in the \icinit\. A ride from Digby o\er the hills to Bear Ri^er is one of the best appetizers that could possiblv be recommeiuled, Fhe rail- way station is not within sight of the town itself, and the train crosses tiie river at its widest point, and in full sight of Bein Island, at its entrance. The next station of importance is Clcmentsport, another prettv village among tiie hills, where iron mining and smelting were (mce carried on, as the ruined foundry near the track testifies. From Clcmentsport it is a pleasant drive to Annapolis, if one should stop off to explore it, and roads also lead from it to the romantic Blue Mountain district, south, and the upper Liverpool lakes, which empty into the Atlantic, ,away on the other side of the province. A vacation journey through this region would be a delight to those who like that sort of thing. After leaving Clcmentsport, the Basin loses its identity in the yellow waters of the Annapolis River, wiiich has a mouth proportionate to that of a boa-constrictor. Goat Island, which figures somewhat conspicuously in the early history of the province, but which bears no more relationship to goats than Bear Island does to bears, is next passed, and then the tourist is given his first glimpse of the dykes that arc such a prominent characteristic of this part of the country. For several miles a i6 n ol' Caiiaihi. ihot()graphci> f its territory Olives and ail- aid llic Ba'-ii. ;^gin (a naiiu e left, and an s. past (luaiiii rest, the train leaving Digbv I hills, on tin uantities than ted States and II the vicinitx. ;d, The rail- sight of Real and smeltini; to Annapolis. and the upper through this lias a mouth history of the the tourist i- everal miles a I Kentville. Ill t t long section of these, keeping back the river from the level meadows is followed, and sitting in your chair and looking dreamily out ol" the car window, you can almost imagine yourself in Holland. These are only modest, retiring sort of dykes compared with those to be seen further on, however. Annapolis, and thk Vallby. At last, at last we are in Aimapolis. Annapolis, the historic, the world-famed, the former football of contending races, ihe gateway to the glorious valley beyond which bears its name. Founded as Port Royal in 1605 by the Frenchman, Sieur de Monts, captured in 1613 by an expedition from Virginia, rebuilt then, only to be again captured fifteen years later, then ken several times subsequently by the English, and finally, in 1716, falling for good into the hands of Great Hritain — sucii, brief, is the pyrotechnic history of Annapolis. In 1713 its name was changed to Annapolis Royal, in honor of Qiieen nne. To-day there is little to it but its history. The old fort and sally-port and ramparts are grass-grown and long ago in Uesuetude. Within it still stands the old magazine, with the names of hundreds of tourists can ed or written upon its walls. J'hose of a romantic turn of mind can still find much to interest them in these relics of olden times, and in the old Rice home- stead, 130 years old, which stands in another part of the town. Annapolis itself has a population of about 1,400, and is ehiefiy noted now for its exportation of apples, which are justly famous for their size and quality. There are several hotels in the place, and the drives are many and delightful. The pretty town of Granville, on the opposite side of the river, is reached py ferry, and is worth a visit. The scenery of the La Qiiillc river is charming. Nothing could be more beautifid, either, jhan the scene from the site of the fortress, looking toward the Basin. There are ample facilities for boating, bathing and iishing. As a matter of fact, up to within a comparatively short time, Annapolis has been regarded as the real threshold of the province, and very few tourists have been aware of what the more western section can present in the way of beauty and inter- est. They have even slighted delightful Digby itself, on this account ; but things are a little different now, thanks to the better transportation facilities and the good offices of the journalistic envoys from " the States," who have found their way thither. # In leaving Annapolis, with its pleasant people, its balmy air and inspiring associations, we bid good-by to the Western Ipounties railway and place ourselves in the care of the Windsor & Annapolis railway (they don't call it "railroad" here). >7 ^^iin^. The line of this road is 130 miles long and runs clear through to Halifax, after traversing the 70-niile Annapolis valley, and being tapped by two or three connecting lines. If we are through passengers from Yarmouth, however, there is no change of cars, for the " Paying Bluenose " simply changes engine and conductor, and rushes right ahead. The places passed in thi> wonderfully interesting journey can only be briefly referred to here. The Aimapolis valley itself, while perhaps not more beautiful than some others that might be mentioned, has an individuality all its own. It is one of the richest and most fertile farming regions on the continent, irrigated a part of tJie way by tiie winding Annapolis River. Beyond all things else, its most prominent and enduring feature is the grand North Mountain range of hills, varying from 500 to 700 feet in height, that keep unbroken guard over it from its beginning to its end. Rev. Dr. John Clark, one of the favorite poets of the province, fitlv described this great panoramic wall of green and black, when he wrote: Oil, mountain, ran^in,"^ league 011 lea.nuf, with varying; breadth and height. A wides read majesty by day, a guardian wall by nitjht. On valley side I oft have felt, while lookinj; \i\) to tliee. Secure, as tliough thy massive strength were keeping back the sea. The first important stopping place is Bridgetown, I4 miles from Annapolis, situated in the richest part of the apple- growing country. It was here, at Bloody Brook, that a companv of New ICngland troops were massacred by the French and Indians in the dxiys when the fortunes of Annapolis fluctuated so much like some stocks do to-day. Bridgetown has about a> many inhabitants as Aimapolis, and it is a fine fishing and bunting centre. When the conductor calls out "Paradise," it will be in order to try to work off some new joke upon the name, or el.se listen to some one elst tell the very old one of how some conductors always add, after a pause, the explanatory words, "Nov.n Scotia." This is certainly an earthh- paradi.se, and, as with Bridgetown, it is cultivated very assiduou.sly every year by maM\ Airierican "boarders." A road leads from here across North Mountain to Port Williams, a fishing village on the Bay of Fundy shore, seven miles distant. Lawrencetown is a very pro.sperous and pretty place, and has cjuite important farming and lumbering interests. Twenty-eight miles from Annapolis the train halts at Middleton. This is a small, but very important place — important for two reasons : it is the junction of the new Nova Scotia Central railway, which cuts directly across the province to the Atlantic coast, and you can get lunch here. The railway has its other termini at Bridgewater and Lunenburg, and traverses some of the most rugged and picturesque scenery in the province. It is a splendidly equipped road, too, and ranks as one 01 18 1 )olis valley, and ^re is no change ?8 passed in thi- ;rhaps not mou and most fertiU thinjjs else, its t in height, that nf the provinct, t <»r the apple- the French and vn has ahout a- e name, or elst words, "Nov.i y year by main 2 on the Bay r.f ests. ce — important province to the :, and traverses ■anks as one oi the finest in the Dominion. It makes an addition to the tourist's itinerary that is becoming more and more appreciated every year, for by it he can, in returning from, or going to, Halifax, avoid a repetition of the valley route, pleasant though that "would be again, and enjoy a comfortable railroad jaunt through a new part of the province and a delightful 6o-mile sail along the rock-bound Atlantic coast. The beautiful Nictaux Falls and valley and Nictaux iron mines are near Middleton, from which can also be reached Lower Middleton, VVilmot, Farmington and Margaretsville. The celebrated Wilmot Springs are located about three miles from Farmington. They are delightfully situated, and the waters of the spring have remarkable curative properties for certain Ailments. The time is probali.y not far distant when his will be to Nova vScotia what Poland Spring is to Maine. After Kingston and Auburn comes Aylesford, twelve miles from which the magnificent chain of Aylesford Lakes begins. 'he chief of these is Kempt Lake, about seven miles long. The village of Berwick, which is next reached, reminds us that we are 47 miles from Annapolis, and at the enti'ance to Jie Cornwallis valley, the great and well-named " (Jarden of Nova Scotia." This is the finest agricultural section in the vhole province, and its scenery is unsurpassed. After Watcrvillc, Cambridge and Coldbrook have been passed, the train Stops at Kentville, the most important town l>ctween Yarmouth and Windsor. 25 miles farther on. Kentville is the head- quarters of the Windsor iJc Annapolis railway, and is a thriving and pretty town, of decidedly English tone. The latter fact is due, in some measure, to the presence among the inhabitants of a luunber of retired British officers. The population of Kentville is 3,00c, and the fact that it is tlie centre of sucli a large and rich agricultural district makes it of no little importance commercially and socially. The town is charmingly laid out, and the opportunities tor drives are among the grandest in the )rovince. Ar THK Home ok Kvanoeline. From Kentville, the little Cornwallis Valley railway, 15 miles in length, takes the tourist through the remaining portion of the valley, and into a land that words can do but faint justice to. Not to stop off here and make this enchanting side trip 4vould be simply a crime, the only meet punishment for which would be the forfeiting of all fmthtr vacations. Let Halifax Xjnd Cape Breton and all the rest of the province wait, therefore, until we have made it. i' If time allows, the most satisfying way in which to journey to this lovely corner of the Nova Scotian province is to make .^e trip in a leisurely way behind a span of Kent\'ille horses. If the saving ol time is our object, the little railroad — which has tlie double distinction of being, probably, tiic only passenger railway in tlic world on which a iirst-class ticket over it> entire length can be purchased for fifty cents, and the only one that runs its entire distance between two rows of specially planted apple trees — will make a very good substitute. In going this latter way, the tourist may stop at Canning, half-way along the line, or continue to Kingsport. the terminus of the railway, on tiie shores of the beautiful and historic Basin oi Minas. From this highly favored s|)ot, a wealth of agricultural produce is shipped in steamers and sailing vessels each season. But there is a way to see all this and a hundredfold more at a single glance, and enjoy a scene that it is hard to parallel the world over. This is by getting otl" at Canning, and ascending the steep road that leads to the famous "Look- Off." some four miles awav. It seems more like 40 while you arc getting there, but when the summit of the North Mountiin is reached, and the glance is directed backward over the road whence the traveler has come, such a picture of panoramic beauty is presented as almost stuns the senses. It is only 600 feet above the level of the sea — and mountains of six thousand feet do not count for much nowadays — but the view of meadow, orchard, forest, and marsh land, gemmed with the waters r a •' river and harbor" appropriation to overcome this difficulty, the Indians appealed to Glooscap, the mighty, who broke ^pray the dam, swinging this end of it around into the present Cape Blomidon. Then, for some reason that was not ascertained V^ the news-gatherers of that period, he strewed it liberally with gems, some of whicii are found to this day, in the shape of ^iMSiethyst, agate, chalcedony, etc. It is a fine field for the mineralogist. Grouped around Blomidon, in the Minas region, are various other places of interest that are usually visited from Kings- e waters dt 1 jijljit, Grand Pre and Wolfville by steamer or boat. They include Partridge Island, a favorite rendezvous of Glooscap; Five vered beholder. js in the distxiiit ' mistv nothing- ing, Cornwallif vhich a counter at you want to Evangeline." fni md all the rest. las been "dene ^tia ; but this i^ otia's priceless II to remenihii ng of the loiif,' omidon. This igh. In vvhat- igliinds, which are the huge masses of rock he playfully threw at the Great Beaver when he was demolishing his dam ; Cape Split, a huge mass of rock adjoining Blomidon; Parrsboro, a delightful summer resting place on the opposite shore of the bisin, from wlvjh enjoyable drives and excursions may be made to Eraser's Head; Moose River, with its picturesque water- iill ; and Boar's Back, the remarkable natural causeway of eight miles, for which Glooscap also gets the credit. In fact, ' glooscap had things all his own way in this vicinity until the advent of Evangeline. The fact that 19 rivers flow into the '"iiksin of Minas is enough to show what the diversity of scenery is here. This pleasant side trip o\er, a return to Kentville once more through the same beauteous scenes is imperative, if we want to continue our rail journey. And still we are not half through the province. If we wanted to '' rough it." and enjoy another side trip, we might get booked as a passenger on one of Her Majesty's. 'ttljal mail stages and cut across country to Chester, 46 miles distant, on the Atlantic coast, just as the Nova Scotia Central ' Biailway would have taken us from Middleton to Lunenburg; but we are not going that way this time. About a mile and a , Mlf from Kentville, on the line of the Windsor & Annapolis, is Port Williams, from whence a stage runs daily to Canning, Ijjfolfville, the pretty town famous as the site of Acadia College, is the next stopping place. It is located in full sight of the -BRsin of Minas, the Gaspereau River, and the famous dykes of the ancient Acadians, and those which have been added to ■ l^m by their successors. These dykes reclairi thousands of acres of rich meadow from the sea, and make a beautiful picture ■ ,j|i the train moves through them. It is fro;v. iiere that the most glorious view of all can be had of Blomidon, and one might ,f*'Vt ! lift pass iiere a hiinclrcd tiiiich a vear and not grow insensible to the beauty ot the scene. I'he \ iew tioni the college itsell i worth a thousand miles' journey to enjo\ . There are dri\es as inninnerable as beautiful, and in summer excursion steamer for points in the basin already mentioned leave the town. The view from -'the ridge" is sublime, and includes, not onh what has already l>een described, but the picturesque and fruitful Gaspereau valley on the other side. This is where '• Para disc" ought to have been located. The population of Wolfville is about i.cxx), and the college and seminary, both of whici have graduated many a brilliant young man and woman, are its chief features. There are half a dozen hotels and boarding houses in the place, and it is becoming deservedlv popidar with Amiiicans. Next to Digby. it is probably the best vacatioi place on that side of the province. The Grand Pre station, three miles beumd \\olf\ille, is a \er\ uiuissiiming one. but it is mc^re important than all th< rest of them put together. For is not this tiie \ er\ heart itself of the sacred '" Land of Evangeline? '' Here the train stop' for a moment, in order that the passengers may jjhotograph upon the tablets of their mcmorv the characteristics of this mosi "sadly poetical" place. Here will be pointed out to you the site of the ancient ^Vcadian village, where Evangeline and lici people dwelt together so happily until their sad but necessary ejection, the taiiitly jjerceptible foundation of the old churih, the trailitionary site of the shop of Hasil the i>lacksmith, the old willow trees — sure indication of former I'lencb occupation — and other features of the historic ground. l>ut all tliose tilings can be si'cn \\ itli greater satisfaction h\ stopping off at Wolf- ville, as all who can do so should. Leaving this lovely and romantic scene, llort(jn Landing is next reached. This is but a mile from Grand Pre, and is also a favorite stopping place for tourists and head(|uarters tor excursions. There are a couple of hotels here, where the lisual low Nova Scotian rates obtain. Two miles farther on is Avonport. on the l)anks of the Avon River. Here evidences of ship- ping are seen, and the railway keeps the river company until Hantsport. five miles away, is reached. This is a bustling village, where shipbuilding and manufactining are carried on extensiveb . It has a goodl\ population, owns considerable shipping, and has large interests in freestone cpiarries in the vicinity. From the top of Mt. Densou, near bv, can be had another superb view of the Basin of Minas and surrounding country, and we have the word of ludge 'T. C Haliburton (the famous " Sam Slick "), that there is little in Europe or America to compare with it. The railroad has by this time changed its course in a more easterly direction, and alter the little village of Falmouth, rest- ing in the heart of the rich gypsum district, is passed, the train crosses the .Vvon on one of the tinest bridges in the maritime provinces, and shortly atlerwards rolls into the important town f»f Windsor, and brings the tourist to another interesting and historic stopping place. ^j college itself i; iirsion steainir- :lii(les, not oiiiv where '• Para- l>oth of which s and boauJiiiif e hest vacation ml than all the the train sti»|)> cs of this Frni«t iiijeline ami her the old chiMih. Ii occupation — w^ off at Wolt- and I're, and i> ivhere the i;>iia: idences of ship- lis is a hustling I us considerable l)v, can be had I lalilnirton (the| Falmouth, re>t- n the maritime] interesting and! «-,»; Cape Blomidon, «f«^ ij!^ I ' VV^indsor is uniijue in some of its characteristics. It is situated in that part of the province where the Bay of Fundy runs things to suit itself, and where tides of 40 or 50 feet are taken as an everyday occurrence. As a consequence, the river con- ducts itself on a "now you see it, and now you don't," sort of principle, and vessels have to be tied to the wharf for more reasons than one. This seemed to disturb Charles Dudlej- Warner more than anything else, when he came down and wrote " Baddcck, and That Sort of Thing." Windsor has a population of over 3,000, and is well supplied with churches, banks, hotels and manufactories. It has an immense trade in the exportation of plaster, the average yearly output being over 100,000 tons, and owns about 180,000 tons of shipping. The points of interest in Windsor include King's College, the oldest educational institution in the province, and which is conducted on Episcopalian, or Church of England, lines. It has a very interesting library and museum. "Clifton," the former residence of Judge Ilaliburton, one of the ablest writers, judges and legislators the jMovince ever produced, is located not far from the college, and should be visited by all means. The ruins of Fort Edward, from wiiich another tine view of river and basin can be had, should also find a place in the itinerary. The Indian name of Winilsor was " Fisic|uid," " the junction of the waters," and in by-gone vears the trail of the predatory redskins from the Annapolis ^^^lley to Halifax led through here. The time-table will show the tourist that he is now 46 miles, or two hours, from Halifax. There will be little to divert his attention until the capital city is nearly reached, and, perhaps, he will appreciate this just as much, when the surfeit of sight-seeing he has alread^• had is taken into consideration. The stations passed by the railwa\' on its own line are Newport, Ellershouse, Mt. Uniacke and l?eaver Bank, and at Windsor Junction, which some wag has said has admirable facilities for the })asturage of goats, and the procuring of ballast for breakwaters, the rails of the great Intercolonial system, which weds Halifax witli St. John and Qiiebec, are entered upon. The intervening 32 miles have been through a wooded country, in whose quiet recesses a complete change has come over the physical make-up of the land. From Windsor Junction the journey lies for several miles through a rather wild and rocky country, broken by several lakes that appear on either side of the track. This scene of desolation suddenly gives way to one of the fairest prospects on this side of the province, however, when tlie head of Bedford Basin, 10 miles from Halifax is reached. This broad and deep and placid sheet of water, with nothing to distinguish it from a huge lake save the sea-weed and the marks of the tide upon its pebbly shores, is one oi the favorite excursion points for the Halifax people. The facilities for boating and bathing are unexcelled, and the locality deserves all the good things that have been said about it. At Bedford itself, which is passed bv the train, there is quite a settlement, and several summer hotels. A Halt at Halu ax. I' As the train draws near the city, hidden l)ehind a promontory where the IJasin joins the harbor at the "'Narrows," tliai white building you sec perched upon the hill to the right is the city prison, and those peculiar little iiouses, around which a colony of colored people lounge and little pickaninnies play, is Africvillc, one of the numerous settlements of the colored brother in this vicinity. Richmond, at the northern limit of the city, with its big deep water terminus, at which ocean vessel^ lie, and its immense dry dock and sugar refinery, is next passed, and in a moment more the train rolls into the splendid station of the Intercolonial railway, and the tourist is in Halifax, the Gibraltar of the Maritime Provinces, the famous North American headquarters of Great Britain's army and n.ivv, and the capital of Nova Scotia. Don't mind tiiose clamoring, Niagara-liki hackmen. They don't represent the people of Halifax, any more than do the gloomy and old-fashioned streets tinough whicii. with true hack-driver's instinct, they take you. represent the city itself. Vou will realize before you are in it long that the place which Lord Cornwallis founded in 1749, is something more than a country village, and that you cannot do justice to it in a day. Neither can this unique Nova Scotian metropolis be doiu justice to in a book that is necessarily limited as this is. In the lirst place, there are some 39,000 people in it. There ha^ been just about this number for several years, for Halifax, which is conservative in all things, is consistent even in respect tn its population. The city is spread out over a very wide area, so that this, together with the many things of interest within it. and innumerable attractions outside its limits, makes the thorough inspection of it a matter of days. The city has been written about so much, that its principal characteristics are reasonably well known to the New Kngland public. In the first place, it is an essentially English city, and it could not well be otherwise when its importance as a military and naval station is con- sidered. A great many American journalists who have come and seen and written have failed to take Halifax seriously, much to the disgu,st of its people; but to " go to Halifax" means to find one's self at a very substantial and important place. There is plenty of wealth in the community, wrested from a one-time profitable commerce, and " society " and •• culture " are no more strangers to the place than they are to Boston. The tie that binds it to the latter city is very strong, too, for hundreds of its young men and women have found their way there in the past few years, to make new homes and fortunes for them- selves. That first great requisite, from the tourist's standpoint, good hotel accommodations, are to be found here. Of the several hotels, either the C^ueen or the Halifax, both adjoining in the central part of the city, can be unhesitatingly recommendec". 24 ows," that id which ;i he colored ■an vesseK cHd station American aji^ara-likr gh whicli. more than is be dom riiere ha^> respect V^ within it. en written t place, it on is con- seriously. ^nt placf. e" are nn hundred^ for theni- le sevenil imendec'. * ^- (• .^.-.j On the South Mountain. They will be found to rank with the best in Canada. Once established at one ot these, the visitor will not find the time hang- ing heavily on his hands, for the sights of tiie city are within a few minutes' walk or drive. These include, perhaps first of all, the Citadel hill, rising 300 feet above the level of the harbor, at the back of the city, and from the top of which a glorious and comprehensive view of Halifax and its environs may be had. An impregnable fortress — one of a dozen like it in the vicinity — surmounts the hill, but is not now accessible to visitors who have no "pull" at headquarters. This is really the best way to start out to see the town, for it gives a well-defined idea as to what the place is. Commencing with the old Province Building, where the local pariiamcMit meets, and where tlie provincial library and a fine collection of portraits of famous Nova Scotians are maintained, there is a long list of public buildings and institutions to be seen. Within ten minutes' walk of the Province Building are the Post-office Building, in which is located the splendid provincial museum; the (Queen's wharf, the Ordnance yard, where cannon and shot enough to make a sieve of the sky are kept; tlie new and handsome City Hall, fronting on the Grand Parade ; St. Paul's Church ; St. Mary's Cathedral ; St. Paul's cemetery, where the m inument to Parker and Welsford, the Crimean heroes, is seen; the quaint stone residence of the lieutenant-governor; tlie Academy of Music; the Halifax Club, and the leading banking, insurance, telegraph, railroad and newspaper offices. Then there is the big Wellington Barracks, at the north end of the town, where the red-coated soldiers of Her Majesty arc housed, and the smaller one at the foot of the Citadel; the wonderful dry-dock, 613 feet long; the imperial Dockyard adjoining arid the great men-of-war; the Victoria General Hospital ; the new Dalhousie College ; the institutions for the blind and deaf mutes; the Exhibition Building, and a score of other institutions. One of the most unique and interesting sights of the town is the open market scene in the vicinity of the Post-office, on Saturday. Here, from daylight until dark, may be fount? scores of country people who have pre-empted the sidewalks for whole blocks, and are busy disposing of their poultry, eggs and garden truck to the housewives of the town. They come from miles away, many of them, and the coal-black " darkies," with their berries and "yarbs," and the melancholy relics of poor "Lo," with their baskets and bows, are also there in goodly numbers to add to the picturesqueness of the scene. It is truly an interesting sight, and cannot be duplicated outside of the market-place at Qijebec, where everything is French. Another important event in the rather uneventful Halifax week is the parade of the soldiers to church on Sunday morning. They worship in Garrison Chapel, near the Citadel, and are always headed by their big brass band. It is always in order for the visitor to watch them march into the church, and then follow them in and wit- ness the services. Indeed, Halifax without its soldiers, would be like Boston without its gilded dome. It is in her natural beauties, though, that Halifax scores her greatest triumph, and the chief of these is the lovely Public »5 Garden. Not to visit this would be to fail to see Halifax. It is a little square corner cut out of Paradise, where the social life of Halifax, especially on Saturday afternoon, when the band concerts are given, can be seen in every aspect. Money couldn't buy it from the Halifaxians. Another beauty spot is Point Pleasant Park, a magnificent stretch of virgin forest, witii beautiful driving roads cut througli it. At its extreme end is another fort and martello tower, and an enchanting view of the ocean. There are numerous other drives, one of the most charming being to tiie North West Arm, a beautiful inlet of the sea, west of the city. It is about three miles long and a quarter of a mile wide. Its shores are lined with the elegant estates of some of the most prominent citizens of Halifax, and, in this respect, reminds one of the banks of the Hudson, just above New York. Excursions by steamer can be made to this place, to Bedford Basin. Ct)W Bay (the coming watering place of Halifax), Prince's Lodge and several other points. W'iicn all these are exhausted, there is tiic pretty town of Dartmouth on the opposite side of the harbor, reached by ferry, and with a delightful chain f)f lakes at its back door. Access can also be had through here to the gold mines in the eastern part of Halifax county, the colored settlement at Preston and the Acadian French one at Chezzetcook, and the splendid farm and forest region of Musquodoboit. Wliat with the natural hospitality of the people of Halifax, and the unrivalled bill of fare they can set before one in the way of outdoor antl indoor attractions, combined with the bracing quality of their summer climate, that \ isitor is hard to please, indeed, who will go away dissatisfied with his stay in tiic deliglitful city by tlie sea. To Captivating Capb Breton. When the already deligiited tourist has completed his inspection of the capital city, there are yet a score or more places wherein he can still feast his soul upon Nova Scotia scenery and study still more unique provincial characteristics to his heart's content. These lie along three distinct routes, and a volume might be devoted to each of them. The first of these lies back over the former route as far as Windsor Junction, and through the remaining half of the province, across the Strait of Canso, and tiirough the wonderfully beautiful island of Cape Breton — the Switzerland of North America. The second is to follow this route to Truro and then branch off through the narrow but interesting isthmus that joins the province to the mainland and New Brunswick, continuing around as far as St. John, if desired, hi either case the line of the Intercolonial railway will be followed, and the routes can, therefore, be plainly picked out on a map of the province. The third is the Atlantic coast route, westward from Halifax, taking in the magnificent shore scener}- that lies along this unbeaten path, with its numerous important settlements, and ending the tour at Yarmouth, where it began. 26 We are not ready to turn back yet, liowevcr, and so let it he the first-named route. The train leaves Halifax over the Intercolonial early in the morning, and the principal point of interest between here and Truro is Shubenacadie, 40 miles distant. This is a pleasant farming region, through which a river of the same name runs, and was at one time (juite an im- portant headquarters of tiie Micmac Indians. Some of them still remain, but not exactly in primitive condition. Truro, 22 miles farther on, is a town of about 5,000 inhabitants, and is very pleasantly situated about two miles from the head ofCobequid Bay, an arm of the Basin of Minas. It contains the provincial Normal School, has various industries, and is altogether a very bustling place. It was originally settled by the Acadian French. Truro is a very important railroad junction, and trains usually stop here for meals. The lakes and rivers in the vicinity offer splendid opportunities for fishing. Leaving here, the train passes thnnigh the picturesciue little towns of Union, Riversdale, Landsdownc and Glengarrv, imtil it reaches Stellarton, 41 miles from Triu'o and 103 miles from Halifax. Here we come upon the outskirts of the great coal tields of that part of Nova Scotia, and could spend many an instructive hour exploring the mines and studying the people. Coal mines are much the same the world over, however, and the only special difference between the mines of Nova Scotia and those of Pennsylvania will be found in the character ol the people who work tiiem. The coal mined here is of a soft or bituminous character, and is of almost inexhaustible supply. From Stellarton, a branch runs tucli a book, if an\- thing like full justice were clone the subject, would l)e unwieldy, and would defeat one of its most important objects. In pursuance of this idea, therefore. Cape Breton and tlie other places to be hereafter touched iq)on will be but brieflv mentioned, to be given later on the more extended mention they merit, accom])anied by appropriate illustrations. It is hard, however, to dismiss Cape Breton in this summary manner, for this sea-invaded island is veril\- the fjueen of sunnner resorts. A delicious sample of its beauty can be seen even as the passenger stands upon the wharf at I'ort Midgrave, the terminus of the Inter- colonial railway in Nova Scotia proper, where he is to take either the transfer across the beautiful strait to Port Hawkesbury opposite, there to resume his railroad journey over the New Cape Breton railway, or board the little steamer that will take 2S winter for en passing Jthcr of its somewhat h is a very Hiit in the lish is the »t. Xiniaii, ul a drive decidedly mg rej^i(jn ;ilt water. iiti resene than this le of that toxicatin;,' ^1 if an\- lects. in entioned. kvever, tf» delicious be Inter- kkesbury vill take View from the Look Off, him on an even more romantic journey through Cape Breton's enchanting inland sea. This picturesque strait, which con- nects the Atlantic with the Gulf of vSt. Lawrence and separates the peninsula of Nova Scotia from its insular sister, is about 14 miles long and a mile in a\erage width. Its waters rush between precipitous wooded banks, and thousands of vessels find it a convenient passage way or anchorage every year. Some times whole fleets of them may be seen there, detained by adverse- winds, or majestically making their way through. Not far from Mulgrave, on the West, is Cape Porcupine, high and im- pressive, and toward the Atlantic end are Pirate Harbor, and other picturesquely located places. Crossing to Point Tupper, Port Ilavvkesbury, if we arc to continue the railway journey, some 15 stations are passed, on a run of 90 miles, until Sydne)'^ at the farthest point north usually visited by tourists, is reached. These include Grand Narrows, where the train crosses the great iron bridge, 1.697 feet in length, having seven spans and a draw in the centre; and North Sydney, the great coa) ng station for ocean steamers. .Some of the finest of Cape Breton's renowned scenery is to be seen on this trip, but an excellent pi ui is to make the jounie} one way by rail and another by steamer. The latter conn^xts with the express train from Halifax (which carries elegant l)uffet parlor cars right through to Sydney, by the way), and after leaving Mulgrave sails through the prettiest part of the Strait of Caiiso, and follows the Atlantic shore of Cape Breton until it reaches Lenox Passage. This loveK strait divides the island from (|uaint old Isle Madame, on the further side of which is located the famous French fishing settlement of Arichat. After a brief stop at the west side of Madame, the little steamer ploughs her wav through the quiet waters into St. Peter's Bay, on the Atlantic side of Cape Breton proper. Here the steamer enters the lock of the half-mile canal which coimects the ocean with its inland trii)utary beyond, and saves so many weary miles' sail along the perilous coast. In going through this canal, the interesting village of .St. Peter's, a Scottish settlement, is passed. Near here, too, is Chapel Island, where the Micniac Indians gather each year to hold their quaint ceremony of the festival of .St. Anne. What a picture bursts upon the gaze wiien .St. Peter's canal is finally passed, and the vessel is fairly launched into the placid and crystal waters of the e\ er l)eautiful Bras d'Or ! It is only the beginning, however, of the same beautiful panorama that is to be unfolded to the surprised and delighted gaze for nearly a hundred miles. Cape Breton is about 100 miles long by 80 miles wide, and of the 2,ooo,(X)0 acres, nearly Scx),ooo consist af lakes. The latter are principally the great .salt water inlets. Great Bras d'Or and Little Bras d'Or, very appropriately typifying " the Arm of Gold." The long and narrow island of Boularderie divides the two. and it is the larger of the two passages that is used mostly for navigation. Stretched along the shores of this lovely inland sea arc various points of interest that are touched at by the steamer, notably Grand Narrows, which boasts of a first-class hotel, and Baddeck, the glorious summer home of Prof. Graham Bell, George ;:( If III Kennan, and other notables. Near Grand Narrows (more properly the Strait of Barra) is the magnificent river Denys and its basin, and at Baddeck excursions may be made to the Margaree and Big Baddeck rivers, Whycocomagh, with its beautiful waterfall, and other interesting points. Explorations into the hunting grounds of the untravelled northern highlands region can also be made. At Baddeck, there is usually an interesting Indian camp to be seen in summer. In fact, you can find bands of the once proud Micmacs in almost any part of the province you may happen to visit, and one begins to think the census enumerator made a slight mistake when he gave the country credit for owning only about two thousand of them. Thu scenery at Baddeck is like that at all other points along the journey, sublime — (mly a little more so. Green hills are always at hand, and blue ones in the distance, and if the trip, or a part of it be made by moonlight over the calm and mirror-like waters, with the sweet incense of the forest tempered with the salty fragrance of the ocean blowing in one's nostrils, the for- tunate possessor of this rich privilege will never again wonder why peojjle ra\e over Cape Breton. Another transition comes when Sydnev and North Sydney are reached. Here we are again within sight of the ocean, and 600 miles from Bo'^ton. Here, too, is another and even richer section of tlie great Nova Scotian coal bed, where hundreds of workers are busy night and ilay extracting the l)ituniinous product that is to l>e carried awav in great steamers and sailing vessels, and where the tall and ghostly chinnieys and siiaft houses of the mines uprear themselves on every hantl. Sydney itself, the principal city of Cape Breton, is an interesting place and has a very fine harbor. It can be seen, however, in a few hours. Twenty-four miles away is historic Louisburg, tlie once magnificent fortress, upon which the French lavished 25 years and six millions of dollars in their attempt to make it impregnable. No need to repeat its familiar story here, or to call attention to the peculiar interest it should have to all New Englanders. The old fort is in much the same state as that at Annapolis now, but its historic memories make it well worth a visit. Here, and at Svdnev, ends the more beaten path of the tourist, but the beauties of the route ha\e oidy been barely hinted at. Some dav the great imsettled countrv toward Cajie North will be opened up to the vacationist, iiul a month and more could be spent in exploring the places already familiarly known, and still not yet overrun with visitors. As to the climate of this peerless Scottish-highland region, here is what an expert upon such matters has to say. and smely no more need be said :*• The sunnners of Cape Breton, sav from May to October, may challenge comparison with those < f any country within the temperate regions of the world. Bright, sunnv davs. with balmy westerly winds, follow each other in succession, week after week, while the midday heats are often tempered bv cool, refreshing sea-breezes. Of rain, there is seldom enough ; the growing crops more often suffer from too little than too much." The Isthmus, and Alono the Coast. Good-by, for the present to bonny Cape Breton, and its Gaelic accent and customs, and back once more to Truro, for a fleeting glance at what the busy isthmus has to offer. The Nova Scotian part of this territory is included in the 76 miles between Truro and Andierst. There are 16 stopping places on the line of the Intercolonial railway, each one, of course, leading to half a dozen other interesting places. The first important one of these is Londonderry, from which a branch rail- way runs three miles to the Acadia Iron Works, and from whence stages can be taken for Economy and Fi\ e Islands. At FoUeigh Lake, a few miles farther on, the traveler finds himself on the crest of the picturesque Cobequid mountains, and 607 feet above the sea. From Oxford Junction, a few miles farther still, a l)ranch road runs to Pictou, already described, and also gives access to the pretty villages of Oxford, I'ugwash, Wallace, Tatamagouche and River John. Oxford is noted for its manufacture of Nova Scotian homespuns, and Pugwash has a remarkably fine harbor. The hunting and fishing (both fresh and salt water) are excellent all through this section. Next in order, and just 121 miles from Halifax, is Springhill, whose great coal mines produce double the amount of black diamonds that anv other mine in the pro\ ince does. The terrible expl()sion here, on Feb. 21, 1891, by which 125 people lost their lives, is still fresh in the public mind. From here, a short side journey can be taken to Parrsboro, where the scenery of the storied Basin of Minas. aheadv mentioned in connection with Blomidon and (irand Pre, may be enjoyed. At Maccan a branch railwav will open up another interesting side trip to Joggins, on the shore of Chignecio Bay, which iiiarks th" •"•trtiiest limit of (lie mistv Bav of Fundy. At Joggins there is an extensive coal mine, but of late years it has be- come chiefly famous on account of the construction tiiere of tiie famous Lcary log rafts. These huge rafts, some of them con- taining 27,000 sticks, weighing in all i i.ooo tons, and having a total length of 730 feet, are built on the shore and launched the siime as ves.sels. They are then towed to New York or other points, saving fl^-usands of dollars that would otherwise have to be paid in freight. Mere, too, are to be seen the highest tides of the Bay of Fundy, and they are well worthy the name of high. Regaining the main line of the railway, and passing Nappan, where the government experimental farm is located, Amherst, and at the same time the bounilary line of the province and the narrowest part of the isthmus, is reached. Amherst is one of the most interesting places in the province. Surrounding it are thousands of acres of the richest salt marsh land in the world. It is wonderful in its extent anil wealth, anil New Brimswick, across the line, has been even more prodigally en- 31 ■T'S^'n'T*''" dowed with it than Nova Scotia. One of these marshes is known as the El\ sian Fields. The original French settlers named the place Beaubassin on account of its great beauty. Amherst itself is one of the prettiest and most progressive of towns and has a present population of ^,000. It offers opportunities iniuuuerable for drives and excursions, and a great many sports- men make it their headquarters. The concluding wonder of this part of the province is the partially completed Chignecto Ship railway. This enterprise is designed to carry vessels of any size overland, between the Bay of Fundy and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, thus saving the long and dangerous voyage around the Atlantic coast of Nova Scotia. The isthnuis here is only 17 miles wide, and the idea seems feasible enough. If he desired to, the tourist could now continue his railway journey until he reached Moncton and St. John, taking at tlio latter place either a steamer of the Yarmouth Steamship Company for Yarmouth, one for Digby. 40 miles across the bay, or a train for Bangor, Boston, Montreal, Vancouver, or any other point in the United States or Canada. For present purposes, however, he will allow the railway to bring him back to Halifax again, from wliich place he will set out over the last of tne three routes previously mentioned. Again, as ever, something equallv new and interesting awaits him. Thousands of people have sailed out of Halifax harbor and never known what beauties lav along their path, simply liecause their vessel did not keep close enough to the shore to allow of an inspection of them. There inav have been other reasons, but that is neither here nor there. Halifax is located almost in the centre of the peninsula proper, so that there is a coastline on each side of it to be ex- plored. These are known as the east and west shores, respectively. The east shore is interesting, presenting as it does some of the most famous of the Nova Scotia gold mines, the picturesque region of Guysborough county, terminating in the Strait of Canso, but as yet it can hardly be said to be open to general travel. It is accessible now only by stage. The west shore, however, is the tourist's paradise, and it, too, will receive the description and illustration it deserves at another time. The time is near at hand when certain parts of it will be as popular as those that are better known are to-day. The time may come, too, when this whole coast will be accessible by rail. The two most important stopping places after Halifax are Lunenburg and Bridgewater, ^^hich are reached by the steamers of the Lunenburg & Halifax Steamship Company and the Coastal Steam Packet Company, respectively. In the 65 miles that are passed before Lunenburg is reached, the steamer skirts one of the most forbidding and dangerous sections of this " iron-bound coast," upon whose cruel cliH's many a vessel has plunged to destruction. Numerous little harbors and inlets, where the hardy fishermen dwell, are passed ; then comes Sambro, with its light, then Mar's Rock, upon which the steamship Atlantic was wrecked, in 1S71, and 600 lives lost; then beautiful St. Margaret's Bay, and then Chester, that most glorious of all seashore resorts, with its island-dotted bay, with grand Mt. t - # Hk: ■>;**■ "' 'ip" - ' hI6 - ' i'- -'pg^ j» !ii I :i^'rt.,. On Cape Blomidon. AspotiiLjon (froin whose summit is to be li:id :i most superb view), in tiie distaiue. LuiuMil)uiii is (iiuillv readied, and iiere is found another i)lacc. where, as at Cliester, tlie visitor can well afford to spend da\ s. Lunenl)urg, \\u' old Indian name of which was Malat' stiidiod ami facts learned as to tlie pro- ductiveness of the province in this precious metal that will astonish the stranger. Once having penetrated to this romantic neighborhood, the tourist can take his choice between pushing on further to the great hunting and fishing grounds in and about Lake Rossignol. or follow tiie l^iverpool River to Liverpool, on the .\tlantic coast itself. If he goes to Rossignol, which is the largest lake in the jMoxince, i.: miles hmg and S miles wide, he can pass through a whole series of lakes, and may visit the hunting region of Iiulian Gardens or the Blue Moimtains. He w ill need a guide at anv rate, and if he can secure an Indian one. so much the better. The I^i\eri)(j>)l Lake region is \ery beautiful, but it is often very intricate. It affords magniticent opportunities for "camping out." As to Liverpool, to return to the coast, here is another ideal resting-place, and one which can be reacheil direct from Halifax or Yarmouth by the South Shore line of the Yakmoi ni .S rKAMSiui' Company. Liverpool is one of the most inter- esting towns along the coast, and occuj^ies the site of a former Indian lende/xous — conscciuentK. more (ilooscap legends. It has been a faxorite place for sinnmer visitors for several years, and offers many natural attractions, besides an opportunity to studv lumbering, iishing, shipl)uilding and other industries. It is one of the most important centres for fresh water fishing in the pro\ince. Leaving the rock-bound harbor, the steamer passes Port Mouton, which was \isited bv .Sieur de Monts ii* 1604. Next comes Little Hope Island, famous for its wrecks. Port Joli, and Lockport, This latter point is an important fishing centre, having a large West Indian trade, and furnishes not a few recruits for the Gloucester fishing fleet, as do a great manv other Nova Scotian towns and villages. Carter's Island, with its red light, and (JuU Rock ledge, with its white one, next appear to view. These are followed by Cape Roseway, which has two j>owerful fixed white lights, and then the course lies between the picturescpie banks of a deep and roomy bay. until the town of Shelburne is reached. Shelbnrne is an illustrious example of the might-have-beens, and, indeed, of the has-beens. Its real founders were Loyalist refugees, who came from the L'nited States and settled here in 17S3. intending to make it the capital city of the province. Their plans miscarried, however, and the 12,000 population which the town contained in 17S5, soon diminished to 400, many of the people returning to the land thev had left. Over two million of dollars were sunk in the enterprise, and, altogether, the earlv historv of the place is a melancholy one. To-day there are about 1,500 people in the tow 11, and, besides the magniticent harbor, the points af interest include the Roseway River, and IJirchtown, a settlement peopled by the descendants of Southern slaves, five miles from Shel- burne. A dailv stage runs from Shelburne to Liverpool and ^ armouth. 34 I Tlu' irmaiiider of the coast joiinicv is aloiii;- tlic rockx soiitli-castcrn shore of the pro\ iiice, in the track of pecuHar currents tliat sometimes take wreckaij^e from tlie \ iciiiity of Slielburne itself", awav anunul to tiie eastern sliores of the liav of I'lmdy. Numerous ])oints of interest are ])asse(K inchulinLr Clyde Ri\ei', where lobster-pack innK( K. Ueufoko. Hkkwk K. MKIIHiKIOW N. HOTEL. Amher.st. Lamy. Terriice. I'erkins" Hotel. American Hou.se. Clifton House. Dominion, Oakland Farm, Central House, Cunningham Hotel. Smith's. Randall's. Sea \'iew. Aylest'ord. Hras dOr House. Telegraph. Hedford. Bellevue. Central House. Commercial. Berwick Hotel. Revere. ( Irand Central. Chute's. Bridgetown lintel. PROPRIETOR. .(ieorge McFarlane. \V. B. Canong. ( ieo. 1). Fuchs. C. A. Perkins. Mrs. J. H. McLeod. VVni. .McLellan. A. 11. Riordan. .Mrs. 1). M. .\ichols. Rut us Hale. .Mrs. II. K.Cunningham. H. C. Smith. Mrs. W. Randall. .Mrs. Hosdt. M. .N. Craves. Frank .Anderson. J. Dunlap. J. C. .Morrison. William Wilson. Mrs. X'aughn. Thos. .Murphy. (Ieo. Kirkpatrick. .Mrs. Russell. W. J. (Jleiicross. .Mrs. A. .M. Chute. 1 . J. Ivagleson. TOWN. Bkii)(;i;w..\ ri:i<. C'ANNlNfi. I)l(iHV. (iUAM) .Nakkows. Hai.ika.\. llANTSI'OKr. KiNtiSTON. Kentvii.lk. l,A\VKi:.S( I-.TOW A. HOTEL. i-'airview. I'-ureka, Waverly. Royal Hotel. -Myrtle. Short's Hotel. De Balinhard's. Acacia \'alley, Grand .\arrows, Halifa.x. Queen'.s, Waverly. .Acadian, Royal. Carleton, .American, Hantsport, Kingston, Lyon's, Kentville. Revere. I'orter, .American, Victoria, Flm House, PROPRIETOR. T. L. 1)0) le. Mr. Forshay. A. B. Baxter. J. Daley. W. Hayden. .Mrs. Short. J. A. C. De Balinhard. Capt. Raymond. .McDougall & McNeil. Hesslein & Son. A. B. Sheraton. .Miss Romans. (ieo. .Nichols. L. D. Windsor. Mrs. Margeson. E. W. Dalton. Ja.s. Wall. Capt. West. U. McLeod. Jas. Lyons. Mrs. W. Redden. Rufus Porter. Jas. Mcintosh. C. E. Farrow. A. Phinnev. TOWN. MiODLETON. Mabou. Ml'l-ORAVK. NkW (il.ASCiOW. NOKTH SYUNKV. Oxford. I'akushoko. I'RTOt . I'OKT tfA\VKi:sIH tt POKT HASTIN(iS. Fl'CiWASH. HOTEL. American. Middleton. Murray House. Sea Side, Central. .Murray House. McLeod Hou.se. Windsor. Norfoli<. Vendonie. McLellan House, \'endome, IJeiniont. O.xford. B^ureka House. Waverley House. (Irand Central, Queens, Minas, Kelse House, (i'at. Isl.) Cumberland House. Revere, Weldon House. Cfntrr.I. K v.. American House. Farquliar, Cliisholni House. Central. Acadia, .•\'"erican House, Temperance House, PROPRIETOR. I). Feindel. D. Freeman. Mrs. Murray. J'. A. Grant. C. Whooten. U. Murray. Mrs. McLeod. Mrs. C. Mckenzie. H. Murray. Thomas lieecli. J. R. .Mcl.elian. John Suiitli. John McDonald. N. -S. Thompson. Patrick W'oodlock. Mrs. Wm. .Moore. C. E. Day. D. .McNamara, M. (lavin. J. T. Tipping. A. H. White. C. L, Rood, (ieorge (jeldert. I). I'. Adamson. .Mrs. Cameron. F. .Mc(]innis. Mrs. Chisholm. K. I). Woodlock. Mrs. \\ m. Chapman. W. H. IJrown. J. C. Smith. TOWN. SVDNKV. Kl'KO. TlSKKT. Wai.i.ack. WKv.Morrii. WiNliSilK. \\'oi.K\ ii.i i: YaKMiU 1 II. HOTEL. .McKenzie House. Clarke House, Private Hoarding Prince of Wales. Parker House. X'ictoria. Railway. Learment, Grand Central. .American House, Wallace. Hillside. Jones' Hotel. y\merican Hou.se. Avon, X'ictoria. Clifton. Wind.sor. Somerset. Hotel 'i'homas. .Acadia. Central House. Wolfville. .American. May \'ie\v, Kent Lodge. Waverly. Qu:en. Lome. ^'armollth. PROPRIETOR. H. R. McKenzie. Mrs. Clarke. House, Mrs. Chas. ^L Lorway. A. L. Mckenzie. .Mrs. .Schroder. N. A. Ross. A. S. Murphy. .A. H. Learment. A. Carter. W. H. (lilman. Mrs. Munroe. K. Edgett. Forbes Jones. John Ct).x. T. Doran. I'. Kilcup. T. Ciib.son. \V. C.ibson. I'red Maurice. ■Mrs. t . R. Quinn. H. 1). Farrell. J. W. Harris. Mrs. H. Brown. .Mrs. Halihurton. A. li. iiaxter. !•;. M. Nichols. Fred Ryerson. W. H. S. Dahlgren. 40 a The New Steel Steamer Bridgewater " (Classed Al at Lloyds.) Sails from Halifax for Bridgewater and Liverpool ever}/ Wednes- day morning 8 A. M., and for Bridgewater every Saturday. Returning, leaves Bridgewater every Monday and Thursday morning, at 9 A. M., for Halifax. From Liverpool every Wednesday evening for Bridgewater and Halifax. -iii. ^.i .iii. -iilC ~?N- ^?r -Jf- ^K Tourists will find the sail very enjoyable along the coast and on the Lahave River. The steamer connects at Bridgewater with the Nova Scotia Central R. R., an^ affords a very attractive return trip to parties visiting Lunenburg County by railroad. Fares cheap and accommodations first-class. Agent at Halifax, FRANK DAVISON, JOSEPH WOOD, Central Wharf. J'res. and Man. NOVA • SCOTIA ♦ CENTRAL • RAILWAY :>^. ^(^ S».:r — r — »; This T{ailwdy connects with the M^indsor and Annapolis Railway at Middleton and inns across the province to Itie ATLANTIC COAST AT BRIDGEWATER. MAHONE BAY AND LUNENBURG. BRIDGEWATER It opens up a tine Agricultural district and abounds in hard and soft wood timber. The ride is at- tractive to tourists for its picturesqueness and to sportsmen for ^wmt and fishinjj. At Bridgewater are Stage Lines connecting Liverpool and other points west, and also with the gold mining districts of Caledonia, Brookfield and Malaga. The headquarters are at Bridgewater. F. B. WADE, Ovlana,s;cr. A. W. CHESTERTON & CO. Railroad and Steamship Supplies. STEAM . PACKINGS, . RUBBER . GOODS, . OILS, . WASTE, . ETC., . ETC. No. 49 INDIA STREET BOSTON, IVIASS. V. A. VooD Zc Go. 0<]jVIANUFACTURKRS OF_-^{f ^J I Ij JN ^{c AND DEALERS IN [>0 Office, 371 i^s: 373 Atlantic Ave. * Wcirehoi.ise, 32 Purchase St. TELEPHONE NO,,.... BOSTON. We carry a full line of Cylinder, Engine and Machinery Oils for general work. Marine, Engine and Cylinder Oils a specialty. WRITE FOK PKicK i-isT. Our Olls are filtered and therefore free from acid. This is the Famous ^1 iAZHITE •»• TRAIN 1^ Running between BOSTON AND NEW YORK. Leaving either city at 3 P. M. daily, and due at the other at 9 P.M. SPEED, -^ COMFORT, LUXURY. Of the New York and New England Railroad. It is one of the most ELECANTLY APPOINTED in the world, is equipped with superb DINING SERVICE, and ensures SIX HOURS -% OF HAPPINESS. The popular NOON EXPRESS, leavinij- either cwy at 12 M. and due at the other at (^.^0 P- M., is also an immense favorite with the traveling public. The Washington Express, laivin.!tr Boston'ai 7 P. M., \^x\ the 6.?i^ P. M. Norwich Line express from Boston are also to be recommended. summer tourists can find no better route. . . . Ticket Office, Depot, Foot of Summer Street, and M2 Washington Street, Boston. •^^^Vestgrn GouNTies Railwhy>^^ The Onlii Line Throuuh the Picturm/ifc IVesteni Section of Xom Scotia. "■!'• I*"|f>|<1|<.| .■ ■ I i<*i>iiiiiiii.iar. Comiecting witli Yamoutli S, S, Co. at Yarmontli, and Windsor and Annapolis Railway at Annapolis, lor Weymoutli, Digby, tlie Annapolis Valley, tlie Land ol Eyangeline, Halifax, Cape Breton, and all other points in tlie Province ; and also tor St. Jolin. Boston. New York and all points in llie United Slates and Canada rai.ai.a .a'a"aiiiMii'iiii7alTaH Stage connections are made at Yarmouth and Digby for local points. The Western Counties Railway forms the popular GATEWAY TO NOVA SCOTIA'S SUMMER RESORTS. HEAD OFFICE AT YARMOUTH, N. S. J. EU^lGNElJ., General Superintendenl. Wm. Fimser, General Passenger Agent. ^m " QUEEN * HOTEL " -^^ Halifax, N. S, ^. 'S. SHERATON . . . . iMdiidiirr. If anything can make a visit to Halifax a source of pleasure it is a good hotel. With this in mind we take much pleasure in calling the attention of Travelers and Tourists to this fine hostelry, containing 130 rooms, fitted with all modern improvements. Special mention should be made of the luxurious furnishings of the ladies' i)arlor, the large and comfortable chambers and the excellent cuisine. ()ne visit will satisfy any one of the superiority of the Hotel. The (Jueen is the largest Hotel in the Lower Provinces, and under the able management of Mr. Sheraton, is rapidly leaving other Canadian Hotels in the background. It is the only Hotel in the City of modern construction and management, and its reputation has been well earned. A good time is guaranteed in advance to those who stop at The Queen. Visitors from the " States" will find that the accommodations and service at The Oueen are equal to the best houses in the land. What Our GUESTS Say Oi Us. Tourists and travelers without exception, ^.pMk in warm terms (if their treatment at Mr. A. II. Slieraton's Oueen Hotel. Halifax. The house is most eleuaiitly fitted up. the tal)le and service is lirst-class, and Sir. Sheraton anil his fjenial assistants, do their lx!st to make the guests of The "Queen" comfort.ihle, and admirably succeed. Thi' "Queen" is doing a splendid business.- .lAjr/Z/Wt' Fanner. Thk Ouekn Hotri, Halifax. X. S. Visitors to Halifax will find Thk Qi'KKN !Iori:i. the Ivst liouse in the city. l»ing fitted througl-.out with all modern impro\t- ments, and furnished with new and handsome furniture. The cuisine is the best of any hotel in the Maritime Provinces. - /nf/Z/wtirc . liiierinin. A C'HF.niT TO Hahi- AX. --The Queen is a hotel which for elegance of appointments, thoioiinhness of attendance .iiid completeness of cuisine, cannot be surpassed in tlic Maritime Provinces and probably by very few houses in Canada.— ^7'\\ lavished t'.ie ^pkiidors o( his inianinative Kt'iiius. llauKaite checked to all points, and no dust thrown in I'assenKcrs' eyes, even in this .\ilvertiseiuent. READ THIS : I'he Kaihvav runs through the far-famed Annapolis \allev, the garden of the Maritime I'rovinces. and over tjround where the love-tranedv of EVANGELINE was woven in Lite's shuttle. I'he beauties of seascape .ind landscape cm NEVER lie excelle the ea tward as far as eje can reach, stretch vast meadows pictured bv LONGFELLOW with magic i)en. Cross the Tiaspereaux River. See the cpiiet loveliness of the r..\>in ol Mm.is. .md where I'.lomidon crouches in lonelv grandeur, keepiiiK WATCH and ward over the point of embarkation, from which the .Vcadi.m exiles saw with stre.iminH eves tlie last of their old homes. In the distance lie the h'ive Islands, like precious stones ''set in the silver sea." lie sure and break at Kentville where you can have salmon and trout lishini; to your he.irt's content, with plenty of game alioiit in the .uitiinni, and the best of hotels to m.ike you comfortable, (ioto the l.ook-olf on the North Mountain; th-n throu;4h the (ias|)ereaux \'alley, visiting Wojfville .md Ac.ulia t.'olleue ; then to the < iasijereaux Valley : now on to Windsor, where all TOURISTS visit the home of immortal " SAM SI.ICK." known at liis own fireside as Jud^e llaliburton : see Kinii'^ College, also the immense Gypsum Quarries. Don't fornct to keep an eve on '.he tides that RUSH up hill in the beautiful .\von River. I lave a ylimpse of old I'ort Edward : revel in the t;lorioiis Mountain Scenery ; then im TO HALIFAX where a feast of delight is provided for the Tourist in the great Kortitic.itions, the m:ignitKent llarlxir, the beautiful Garden^, and the linest N.itural I'.iik m the world. Health-seekers won't fail to rememlwr that in traveling BY THE WINDSOR AND ANNAPOLIS RAILWAY they are in one of the Ijest climates on the foot-stool, where the air is the only meilicine rei|uired to keep you fresh as paint. Chicai* I=AKt:s First-class Hotel Accommodation in every Town at Reasonable Rates. Splendid Steamships running in connection to and from Boston and St. John, N. B., While daily connections are made putting the passenger in touch with every Railway in Canada and the States. i;uy .1 Volume of Longfellow, or look up the nearest ^olui^t .\gency. or. Ix.'tter >till. t.ike .i trip to N.iv.i Scoti.i, it you want to know more about The "Land of Evangeline" Route. K. SUTHERLAND, Resident Manager. W. R. CAMPBELL, Gen'l Manager and Sec'y. !l Htlhntic Works. EAST BOSTON, TV^ASS. BUILDERS OF Steamsliips, Steam Yachts, Tow Boats, Marine Engines, Boilers, and Tanlis. j Coppersmith Work and General Repairing. 'I- 1 . K)f IN f 1 f>R.V>' SON S I' L^ ' CARPETS V UPHOLSTERY t-Mi 'i' ♦)*.'•. \\AS|llSlVr»N SI OPR BOYLS70K ST Copynghtsd by the Yarmouth Steamship C" 189V!.