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SIRE, A, .S a Sea Officer addrefling Your MAJESTY on a profeffional Subjeft, I might juftly be accufed of fingular Ingratitude, did I not avail myfelf of this Op- portunity of reminding the World, that the Voyage to explore how far Navigation was praaicable towards the North Pole was undertaken at a Period peculiar- ly diftinguiflied by Your Majecty's gracious Atten- tion to Your Navy. In a Time of profound Peace Your Majesty, by a liberal Addition to the Half Pay of the Captains, re- lieved the Neceffities of many, and gratified the Am- bition of all, at once demonftrating Your Majesty's Regard to their Welfare, and the Remembrance of their Services, I A 2 The -M:. [iv] y The Armament, which followed in a few Months, and Your Majesty's Review of that Armament, which, by the Difpatch of its Equipment, had pre- vented a War, afforded to Your Navy the moft flat- tering and diftinguilhed Mark of Royal Favour, and io Your Majesty an additional Proof of that Ala- crity for Your Service, which had fo recently receiv- ed both its Reward and Encouragement from Your Majesty's Proteftion. Permit me. Sire, to add, that Your Majesty's gracious Approbation of my Endeavours, and the Permiflion I have been honoured with, of infcribing the following Account of them to Your Majesty, are ftrong Proofs of that Indulgence with which Your Majesty receives every Attempt to promote Your Service. An Indulgence^ which, at the fame Time that it cannot fail of animating the Zeal of others niore worthy of Your Majesty's Notice, has added to the moll devoted Attachment, the warmeft Gratitude of, Sire, Your Majesty's moft dutiful Subje£l and Servant, CONST ANTINE JOHN PHIPPS. y' TT^ C s ] INTRODUCTION. THE Idea of a paflage to the Eaft Indies by the North Pole was fuggefted as early as the year ^527, by Robert Thome, merchant, of Briftol, as appears from two papers preferved by Hackluit ; the one addrefled to king Henry VIII. the other to Dr. Ley, the king's ambaflador to Charles V. In that ad- drefled to the king he fays, ** I know it to be my ** bounden duty to manifeft this fecret to your Grace, ** which hitherto, I fuppofe, has been hid." This fecret appears to be the honour and advantage which would be derived from the difcovery of a pafTage by the North Pole. He reprefents in tho ftrongeft terms the glory which the kings of Spain and Portugal had obtained by their difcoveries Eaft and Weft, and ex- horts the king to emulate their fame by undertaking difcoveries towards the North. He ftates in a very mafterly ftyle the reputation that muft attend the at- tempt, and the great benefits, fhould it be crowned with fuccefs, likely to accrue to the fubjefts of this country, from their advantageous fituation ; which, he obferves, feems to make the exploring this, the only hitherto undifcovered part, the king's peculiar duty. To remove any objeftion to the undertaking which might be drawn from the fuppofed danger, he infifts upon ** the great advantages of conftant day-light in ** feas, that, men fay, without great danger, diffi- culty, and peril, yea, rather, it is impoflible to pafs \ for they being paft this little way which A3 f^ they r^ nswBws^ ^^BW" N ^' 4t 4( 4t 6 INTRODUCTION. *' they named fo dangerous (which may be two or three leagues before they come to the Pole, and as much more attcr they pals the Pole) it is clear from thenceforth the leas and lands are as tempe- rate as in thefe parts/' In the paper addrefled to Dr. Ley he enters more minutely into the advantages and practicability of the undertaking. Aniongft many other arguments tp prove the value of the difcovcry, he urges, that by failing northward and pafling the Pole, the navigation from England to the Spice Iflands would be (horter, by more than two thoufand leagues, than either from Spam by the Straits ot Magellan, or Portugal by the Cape of Good Hope ; and to Ihew the likelihood of fuccefs in the enterpixe he fays, it is as probable that the cofmographers Ihoul.' be miflaken in the opinion they entertained of the polar regions being impafTible from extreme cold, as, it has been found, they were, in fuppofing the countries under the Line to be unin- habitable from exceflive heat. With all the fpirit of a man convinced of the glory to be gained* and the probability of fuccefs in the undertaking, he adds, — God knoweth, that though by it I (hould have no great intereft, yet I have had, and flill have, no little mind of this bufinefs : fo that if I had faculty to my will, it ihould be the firil thing that I would underftand, even to attemptj If oiif fees North' ward be navigable to the Pole or no,** Notwitht ilanding the many good arguments, with which he Supported his propofition, and the offer of his own (ervices, it does not appear that he prevailed fo far as to procure an attempt to be made. Borne, in his Regiment of the Sea, written about the year I577> mentions this as one of the five ways to Cathay, and dwells chiefly on the mildnefs of cli- mate which he imagines miifl be found near the Pole, from the conftant prefence of the fun during the fum- mer. Thefe arguments, however, were foon after controverted by Blundeville, in his Treatife on Uni- verfal Maps. In 1578, George Be ic, a gentleman who had beeti with Sir Martin Frobiiher in all his voyages for the difcovery of the North Weft paffage, wrote a very ingenious ft 4t 4C 4( 4€ 4t wmm N ^' INTRODUCTION. 7 ingenious difcourfe, to prove all parts of the world habitable. No voyage, however, appears to have been under- taken to explore the circumpoplar feas, till the year 1607, when ** Henry Hudfon was fet forth, at the ** charge of certain worftiipful merchants of Lon- ** don, to difcover a paffage by the North Pole to '* Japan and China." He failed from Gravefenu on the firft of May, in a fliip called the Hopewell, hav- ing with him ten men and a boy. I have taken great pains to find his original journal, as well as thoie of fome others of the adventurers who followed him ; but without fuccefs : the only account I liavc fcen is an imperfect abridgment in Puichas, by which it is not pofTible to lay down his track j from which, how- ever, I have drawn the following particulars : — He fell in with the land to the Weftward in latitude 73**, on the twenty-firft of June, which he named Hold- with-Hope. The twenty-feventh, he fell in with Spitsbergen, and met with much ice ; he got to eigh- ty degrees twenty-three minutes, which was the Nor- jthermofl latitude he obferved in. Giving an account pf the conclufion of his difcoveries, he fays, *• On ** the fixtcenth cf Auguft I faw land, by reafon of ** the clearnefs of the weather, Jiretching far into ** eighty-two degrees, and, by the bowing and Ihew- *' ing of the flcy, much farther ; which, when I firft ^* faw, I hoped to have had a free fea between the *' land and the ice, and meant to have compafTed this *' land by the North ; but now finding it was impof- ** fible^ by means of the abundance of ice compaf- ** fing us about by the North, and joining to the land ; ** and feeing God did blefs us with a wind, we re- ^* turned, bearing up the helm." He afterwards fidds : *' And this I can afTure at this prefent, that ** between fcventy-eight degrees and an half, and ** eighty-two degrees, by this way there is no paf- ** fage." — In confequence of this opinion, he was the next year employed on the North Eaft difcovery. In March 1609, old ftylc, ** A voyage was fet '* forth by the right worlhipful Sir Thomas Smith, ** and the reft of the Mufcovy Company, to Cherry f* Ifjand, and for a further difcovery to be made to- "■ A 4 ** wards I r: w t. >^v ^^ ,; INTRODUCTION. ** wards the North Pole, for the likelihood of a trada ** or a paffage that way, in the (hip called the Amity, ** of burthen feventy tuns, in which Jonas Poole was ** mailer, having fourteen men and one boy." — He weighed from Blackwall, March the firft, old ftyle ; and after gre^t feverity of weather, and much diffi- culty from the ice, he made the South part of Spitf- bergen on the i6th of May. He failed along and founded the coaft, giving names to feveral places, and making many very accurate obfervations. On the 26th, being near Fair Foreland, he fent his mate jn fhore ; — and, Ipeaking of the account he gave at his return, fays, ** Moreover, I was certified that all *' the ponds and lakes were unfrozen, they being frefh water ; which putteth me in hope of a mild fummer here, after fo fharp a beginning as I have had ; and my opinion is fuch, and I affure myfelf it is fo, that a paffage may be as foon attained this ** way by the Pole, as any unknown way whatfoe- ** ver, by reafon the fon doth give a great heat in this climate, and the ice (I mean that freezeth here) is nothing fo huge as I have feen in feventy- ihree degrees.'- Thefe hopes, however, he was foon obliged to rc- linquifh for that year, having twice attempted in vain to get beyond 79** 50'. On the 3ift of June, he flood to the Southward, to get a loading of fifli, and arrived in London the laft of Auguft. He was em- ployed the following year (161 1) in a fmall bark call- ed the Elizabeth, of 50 tuns. The inftruflions for this voyage, which may be found at full length in Purchas, are excellently drawn up : They direct him, after having attended the fifliery for fome time, to at- tempt difcoveries to the North Pole as long as the fea- fon will permit ; with a difcretionary claufe, to a6l in unforefeen cafes as fhall appear to him moft for the advancement of the difcovery, and intereft of his employers. This however proved an unfortunate voy- age : for having ftaid in Crofs Road till the 1 6th of June, on account of the bad weather, and great quan- tity of ice, he failed from thence on that day, and fteered W b N fourteen leagues, where he found a bank of ice : he returned to Crofs Ro^d ; from whence. *t *t . Njk*^ ^^u^ t •■ INTRODUCTION. 9 whence, when he failed , he found the ice to lie clofe to the land, about the latitude of 80^, and that it was impoflTible to pafs that way ; and the flrong tides making it dangerous to deal with the ice, he determined to ftand along it to the Southward, to try if he could find the fea more open that way, and lo get to the Weftward, and proceed on his vpyage. He found the ice to lie neareft S W and S W b S and ran along it about an hundred and twenty leagues. He had no ground near the ice at 160, 180, or 200 fathoms : perceiving the ice ftill to trend to the Southward, he determined to return to Spitfbergen for the fifliery, where he loft his fhip. In the year 16 14, another voyage was undertaken, in which Baffin and Fotherby were employed. With much difficulty, and after repeated attempts in vain with the Ihip, they got with their boats to the firm ice, which joined to Red-B^ach ; they walked over the ice to that place, in hopes of finding whale-fins, &C. in which they were difappointed. Fotherby adds, in his account, *' Thus, as we could not find what we dcfired to fee, fo did we behold that which we wiftjed had not been there to be feen ; which was great abundance of ice, that lay clofe to the fliore, and aho off at fea as far as we could difcern." On the eleventh of Auguft, they failed from Fair- Haven, to try if the ice would let them pafs to the Northward, or Northeaftward ; they fleered from Cape Barren, or Vogel Sang, N E b E eight leagues, where they met with the ice, which lay E b S and W b N. The fifteenth of Auguft they faw ice fro- zen in the fea of abpve the thicknefs qf an half- crown. Fotherby was again fitted out the next year in 3 pinnace of twenty tons, called the Richard, with ten men. In this voyage he was prevented by the ice from getting farther than in his laft. He refers to a chart, in which he had traced the (hip's courfe on every traverfe, to {hew how far the ftate of that fea was difcovered between eighty and feventy-one de- grees of latitude, and for twenty-fix degrees of Ion* gitude from Hackluit's headland. He concludes the account of his voyage in the following manner : " Now, It €C (C ■" ' ' J; ' '. ^ m •V TO INTRODUCTION. C( «( << << <( or never, tried. In the Journal which follows, I mean to confine myfelf to the occurrences of the voyage as they fuc- ceeded in order of Time ; which, for the conveni- ence of the generality of readers, I have reduced from the nautical to the civil computation. A voyage of a few months to an unhabited extre- mity of the world, the great object of which was to afcertain a very interefting point in geography, can- not be fuppofed to afi^ord much matter for the gratifi- cation of mere ciiricfity. JOURNAL. V iA 1 13 1 [May. %> % *^ I » T * •■ ' r r.vv „ !l L. i rommlfnon for get her fitted f difcoveryto- I the Nore for I ■ ock. od rigged, and es, except the der, with eight I. Lord Sand- lg attention he he equipment, before our de- pleated to the the expedition, down the river ifliions for the to fall down to king under my \ of my way to North Pole, or ty upon a meri- ;ht admit ; and, ake fuch obfer- 1 to navigation, knowledge : in finding free na- vigation I J3 J [May. 8'.V , V/,7^y/rf- R AC EHO 1',. .-^ K iuvd C ' A R C A?^ 5 i T — r t-T- t ' y* ,//' ■- ... 'U — i:Wr,i„//, A' I « 1 '' "* --O i^":^ ./"■//,;■>. i>,n / ^^^l• u \.'>/V /'.*'/>■ Kli C.J:.\S. { >, [ J. A A- T "::? A vf A' if r^-' V X ai K V "-^ l; K ,\ ./ ,^ "-^J- %^ / 1 .; :. II INTRODUCTION. from the Tea, with the greateft fuccefs. Some fmall but ufeful alterations were made in the fpecies of provifions ufually fupplied in the navy ; an additional quantity of fpirits was allowed for each fliip, to be idued at the difcretion of the commanders, when ex- traordinary fatigue or fe verity of weather misrht make — ' it expedient, the ufe of the the rigor of th former navigai dered to be pa when we arriv that one or b the profecutio each (hip were vrf^ t^ v r 1 „i f. ■s . 1 '.-.».' 5 1. If' ilze, to be fit, whole crew, to promote the bute to the fee (hips' companit '-'^^ Asa voyage ' ny opportunitie ^-u' tions in matten provide myfelf . v in ufe, as well or never, tried. , In the Journi . myfelf to the o< ceeded in order ence of the gi i from the nautic ; A voyage of? .hii \ piity of the w^j ^u^ •§:! afcertain a very v). > not be fuppofea va- cation of mere; ,•< '^ , >. ■ -- •■ ,■* « ' ; . , - • . -w- - •? :- . ,*:..■ a^J 'j;.- .ii ••■*: :.*-.». 'f"?! 3. /'. "t. t , t- /. V ' >■»■ ■ 1 '. "i n . ^- ^ ' t ■'■■■.- 'M*. i>i ,;'jj)u<> 4 >t. 1 T' i.o . '\ -I; [•3l [May. JOURNAL. APRIL 19th, 1773, I received my commlfTion for the Racehorfey Avith an order to get her fitted with the greatefl difpatch, for a voyage of difcovery to- wards the North Pole, and to proceed to the Nore for further orders. 23d. The (hip was hauled out of dock. May 21 ft. The fhip being manned and rigged, and having got in all the provifions and ftores, except the Gunner's, we fell down to Galleons. 22d. We received on board the powder, with eight fix-pounders, and all the gunner's (lores. Lord Sand- wich gave us the laft mark of the obliging attention he had fhewn during the whole progrefs of the equipment, by coming on board to fatisfy himfelf, before our de- parture, that the whole had been compleated to the wifli of thofe who were embarked in the expedition. The Eafterly winds prevented our going down the river till the 26th, when I received my inftrudiions for the voyage, dated the 25th ; direding me to fall down to the Nore in the Racehorfe, and there taking under my command the Carcafs, to make the beft of my way to the Northward, and proceed up to the North Pole, or as far towards it as poftible, and as nearly upon a meri- dian as the ice or other obftrudions might admit ; and* during the courfe of the voyage, to make fuch obfer- vations of every kind as might be ufeful to navigation, or tend to the promotion of natural knowledge : in cafe of arriving at the Pole, and even finding free na- . . vigatipn 11 mil II -ft to — [ 14 JOURNAL. [June. vigation on the oppofite meridian, not to proceed any farther ; and at all events to fecure nny return to the Nore before the winter fhould fet in. There was alfo a claule authorizing me to proceed in unforefeen cafes, .according to my own dilcretion ; and another daufe dirc^ing me to profecute the voyage on board the Carcals, in cafe the Racehorfe fhould be loft or difa- blcd. 27th. I anchored at the Nore, and was joined by Captain Lutwidge, in the Carcafs, on the 30th : her equipment was to have been in all refpe£ls the fame a» that of the Racehorfe, but when fitted. Captain Lut- widge finding her too deep in the water to proceed to lea with fafety, obtained leave of the Admiralty to put fix more guns on Ihore, to reduce the complement to eighty men, and return a quantity of provifiont proportionable to that reduction. The officers were recommended by Captain Lutwidge, and did juf- tlce to his penetration by their conduct in the courfe of the voyage. During our ftay here, Mr. Lyons landed with the ailronomical quadrant at Sheernefs fort, and found the latitude to be 51° 31' 30 ", longi- tude o® 30' Eaft. The eafterly winds prevented our moving this day and the following. June 2d. Having the wind to the Weftward of North, at five in the morning I made the fignal to Aveigh ; but in lels than half an hour, the wind (hift- ing to the Eaftward and blowing freih, I furled the topfails. The wind came in the afternoon to N b ^; we weighed, but did not get far, the tide of flood making againft us. 3d. The wind blowing frefti all day Eafterly, we did not move. 4th. The wind coming round to the Weftward at fix in the morning, I weighed immediately, and fent the boat for Captain Lutwidge, to deliver him his or- ders. At 10 A. M. longitude by the watch 56' R. At noon the latitude oblerved was 51° 37' 36' N. At eight in the evening we had got as far as Balfey Cliff, between Orford and 'Harwich. Little wind at night. 5th. Anchored in Hofcley Bay at half paft feven in the evening, in five and an half fathom water. Or- ford Caftle N,EbN. . , Angle June] JOURNAL. »5 \r 38' i8 16 2 20 lOO 59 35 27 Angle between Aldborough Church and Or- ford Light Houfe, Light Houfe and Oiford Churchy OrFord Church and Caftle, - - - - Caflic and Hoi'eley Church, - - - - Hofeley and Bailey Church, - . - - 6th. At five in the morning, the wind at S S W, weighed, and flood out to Tea, finding I might lofe two tides by going through Yarmouth Roads. Exa- mined the log line, which was marked forty-nine feet ; the glafs was found, by comparing it with the time- keeper, to run thirty feconds : at noon latitude obferved 52° 16' 54", longitude by the watch i** 30' 15" E. Angle between South wold and Walderfwick 10° 39* Walderfwick and Dunwich, - - - - 20 2C Dunwich and Aldborough, - - - - 46 53 Southwold N W i N, fuppofed didance three leagues. We concluded the latitude of Southwold to be 52^ 22', and longitude i** 18' 15" E. The dip was 73" 22'. 7th. The wind was Northerly all day, and blew frefh in the morning. We had flood far out in the night and the day before, to clear the Lemon and Ower. 8th. Little wind mofl part of the day, with a ve- ry heavy fwell. Stood in for the land. At half pafl ten longitude by the watch o® 41' 1$" E. At noon the latitude was 53** 38' 37". We faw the high land near the Spurn, in the evening. 9th. About noon Flamborough Head bore N \V" b N diflant about fix miles : we were by obfervation in latitude 54° 4' 54", longitude o® 27' 15" E , makes Flamborough Head, in latitude 54^ 0', tude 0° 19' I5"E. In the afternoon which longi- we were off Scarborough. Almofl calm in the evening. jioth. Anchored in the morning for the tide in Kobin Hood^Bay, with litde wind at N W : worked up to Whitby Road next tide, and anchored there at four in the afternoon, in fifteen fathom, with very lit- tle wind. nth. Calm in the morning ; compleated our wa- ter, live flock and vegetables. At nine in the morn- ing longitude obferved by the watch 1° 55' 30" W ; Whitbey tl i6 J O U R N Whitbcy Abbey bore S i W. A L. [June. Weighed with the vrind at S E, and (leered N £ b N to get fo far into the mid-channel as to make the wind fair Eaftcrly or Wefterly, without being too near either (hore, before ^e were clear of Shetland and the coaft of Norway. 1 2th. The wind at S E, and the (hip well advan- ced) I ordered the allowance of liquor to be altered, ferving the (hip's company one-fourth of their allow- ance in beer, and the other three-fourths in brandy ; by which means the beer was made to laft the whole voyage, and the water confiderably faved. One half of this allowance was ferved immediately after dinner, and the other half in the evening. It was now light enough all night to read upon deck. 13th. The weather ftill fine, but confiderably lefs wind than the day before, and in the afternoon more Northerly. The longitude at ten in the morning was found by my watch 0° 6' W. We took three obfer- vations of the moon and fun for the longitude ; the extremes differed from one another near two degrees : the mean of the three gave the longitude I** 37' E. At noon the latitude obferved was 59° 32' 31". We found a difference of 36' between the latitude by dead reckoning and obfervation, the (hip being fo much more Northerly than the reckoning. The diftance of this log was too (hort by forty-three miles. A log marked forty-five feet, according to the old method, would have agreed with the obfervation within two miles in the two days' run. The circumftance of (leering upon a meridian, which afforded me fuch frequent opportunities of detecting the errors of the log, induced me to obferve with care the comparative accuracy of the different methods of dividing the line, recommended by mathematicians, or praftifed by feamen. In the afternoon I went on board the Carcafs to compare the time-keepers by my watch. At fix in the evening the longitude by my watch o® 4' E. This evening the fun fet at twenty-four mi- nutes pafl nine, and bore about N N W by the com- pafs. The clouds made a beautiful appearance long after to the Northward, from the reflection of the fun below the horizon. It was quite light all nightji ; the Carcafs made the (ignal for feeing the land in the evening. 14th. '' June.] journal; 17 14th. Little wind, or calm, ail day j but very clear and line weather. Made feveral different obfcrvations lor the longitude by the fun and moon, and by my watch. The longitude of the lliip was found by my watch, at ten in the morning, to be 1° i r 45 ' W. The longitude by the lunar oblervations difFcred near two degrees from one another. By tlic mean of ihcrti the (hip was in longitude 2*^ 57 45 ' W. Some Shet- land boats came on board vviih filh. At noon the la- titude by obfervation was 60*^ 16' 45 '. At one in the afternoon the dip was obferved to be 73° 30 ; .ir.d at eight 75*^ 18': the .-'vening calm, and very fine ; liie appearance of the (ky to the Northward very beautiful. Variation, by the mean of feveral obfervations, 22^ 25' W. 15th. By an obfervation at eight in the morning, the longitude of the dip was by the watch 0° 39' W : dip 74^^ 52'. At half paft ten in the morning, the longi- tude, from feveral obfervations of the fun and moon, •Was o** 17' W ; at noon being in latitude 60*^ 19' 8", by obfervation, I took the diftance between the two lliips by the Megameter ; and from that bafe deter- mined the pofition of Hangcliff, which had never be- fore been afcertained, though it is a very remarkable point, and frequently made by fliips. According to thefe obfervations it is in latitude 60^ 9', and longitude O*^ 56' 30" W. At one, obferved the dip to be 75^. A thick fog came ort in the afternoon, with a flat calm ; we could not fee the Carcafs, but heard her anfwer the fignals for keeping company. Variation, from the mean of feVeral obfervations, 25** i' W. 1 6th. A very thick fog in the morning ; latitude ob- ferved at noon 60** 29' 1 7" : the dip was obferved at nine in the evening to be 76° 45'. In the afternoon, the weathci clear, and the wind fair, (leered N N E i fent Captain Lutwidge his further orders and places of rendezvous. 1 7th. Wind fair, and blowing frerti at S S W, con- tinued the courfe N N E : ordered the people a part of the additional cloathing : fiiw anEnglilh (loop, but had no opportunity of fending letters on board, the fea run- ning high. At ten in the morning, longitude by the watch c° I9'45"W at noon, the latitude obferved B * was Hi: 'It * ! i8 JOURNAL. [June. was 6a° 59' 27". The (hip had out-run the reckon- ing eleven miles. I tried Bouguer's log t\)rice this day^ and found it give mtre than the common log. Varia- tion 19° 22' W. x8th. Little wind all day, hut fair, from S S W to S£ : ftill (leering NN£ : latitude obferved at noon 65** 18' 17". At three in the afternoon, founded with 300 fathom of line, but got no ground. Longitude by the watch 1° o' 30 " W. 19th. Wind to the N W. Took the meridian ob- fervation at midnight for the firft time : the fun's low- er limb o'* 37' 30 ' above the horizon ; from which the latitude was found 66'* 54 39" N : at four in the afternoon, longitude by the watch o® 58' 45" W : at fix the variation 19** 11' W. 20th. Almoft calm all day. The water being per- feQly fmooth, I took this opportunity of trying to get foundings at much greater depths than I believe had ever been attempted before. I founded with a very heavy lead the depth of 780 fathom, without getting ground ; and by a thermometer invented by Lord Charles Cavendifti for this purpofe, found the tempe- rature of the water at that depth to be 26^ of Fah- renheit's thermometer ; the temperature of the air being 480 h We began this day to make ufe of Doflor Irving's apparatus for diftilling frelh water from the fea : re- peated trials gave us the moft fatisfa6tory proof of it> utility : the water produced from it was perfeftly free from fait, and wholefome, being ufed for boiling the fliip's provifions; which convenience would alone be a defirable objeft in all voyages, independent of the benefit of fo ufeful a refource in cafe of diftrefs fcr water. The quantity produced every day varied from accidental circumftances, but was generally from thir ty-four to forty Gallons, without any great addition of fuel. Twice ii deed the quantity produced was on- ly twenty-three gaiions on each diftillation ; this a- mounts to more than a quart for each man, which, thoufjh not a plentiful allowance, is much more than what is neceflary for fubfiftence. In cafes of real n^:- celuty I have no reafon to doubt that a much greater quantity -.'■iri^'^f^rrv ter iiv June.] JOURNAL. 19 quantity knight be produced without an inconvenient expence of fuel. 2 1 ft. Afrelh gale at SE all day; fteered NNE* At four in the morning we fpoke with a fnow from the (eal Bfliery> bound to Hamburgh, by which we fent fome letters. At fix in the morning the variation^ by the mean of feveral obfervations> was 23** 1 8' W. longitude by the watch at nine was o** 34' 30" W. Lati- tude obferved at hoon 68** 5'*. 2 2d. Calm moft part of the day ; rainy and rather cold in the evening. At noon obferved the dip to be 77" 52'. 23d. Very foggy all day ; the wind fair ; altered the courfe and ftee-red N E and E N Ej to get more into the mid channel, and to avoid falling in with the Weftern ice, which, from the increafing coldnefs of the weather, we concluded to be near. At feven o'clock in the morning, being by our reckoning to the North- ward of 72°, we faw a piece of drift wood, and a fmall bird called a Redpoll. Dip obferved at nine in the evening to be 81** 30'. 24th. Very foggy all the morning ; the wind came round to the Northward. The dip obferved at noon was 80^ 35'. In the afternoon, the air much colder than we had hitherto felt it ; the thermometer at 34**. A fire made in the cabin for the firft time> in latitude 73° 40^ \ . 25th. Wind Northerly, with a great fwell ; fome fnow, but in general clear. At eight in the mornings the longitude obferved by the watch was 7° 15'E. Made feveral obfervations on the variation* which wc found, by thofe taken at feVen in the morning, to be 17° 9' W ; by others at three in the afternoon, only 70 47' W. I could not account for this very fuddeii and extraordinary decreafe, as there were feveral dif- ferent obfervations taken both in the morning and even- ing, which agreed perfectly well with each other^ without any apparent caufe which could produce an error affefting all the obfervations of either fet. At eight in the evening the longitude by the moon was 12° 57' 30" E, which differed 2® 35' from that by the watch. Little wind at night. 26th. Little wind all day ; the weather very fine and moderate, The latitude obferved at noon was B a 74** f ■ f 20 JOURNAL. [June. 74** 25', The thermometer expofed to thcTiin, which (hone very bright, rofe from 4 1*^ to 61*' in twenty mi- nutes. By each of two lunar obfervations which I took with a fextant of four inches r a^us, at half paft one, the longitude was 9® 57' 30" E; which agreed within thirty-feven minutes with an obfervation mado by the watch at half an hour after three, when the longitude was 8** 52' 30 ' E. Dip 79° 22'. 27th* At midnight the latitude obferved was 74* 26". The wind came to the S W, and continued fo all dayy with a little ratn and fnow. The cold did not increafe. We fleered N b E. At feven in the morning the variation, by a mean of feveral obfervations, was found to be 20** 38' W. We were in the evening, by all our reckonings, in the latitude of the South part of 'Spitsbergen, without any appearance of ice or fight of land, and with a fair wind. 28th. Lefs wind in the morning than the day before, with rain and fleet : continued fleering to the North- ward. At five in the afternoon picked up a piece of drift wood, which was fir, and not worm-eaten : founded in 290 fathom ; no ground. At fix the longi- tude by the watch was 7° $0' E : between ten and ele^ ven at night, faw the land to the Eaflward at ten or tvelve leagues diflance. At midnight, dip 81° 7'. 29th. The wind Northerly ; flood clofe in with the land. The coafl appeared to be neither habitable nor acceffible ; it was formed by high, barren, black rocks? without the leafl marks of vegetation ; in many pla- ces bare and pointed, in other parts covered with fnow, appearing even above the clouds : the vallies between the high cliffs were filled with fnow or ice. This profpeft would have fuggefled the idea of perpetual winter, hadnot the mildnefs of the weather, thefmooth water, bright funfhine, and conflant day-light, given a chearfulnefs and novelty to the whole of this ftriking and romantick fcence. I had an opportunity of making many obfervations near the Black Point. Latitude obferved at noon 7.7 "^ 59' 11". The difference of latitude, from the lafl obfervation on the 27th at midnight to this day at noon, would according to the old method of marking the log have been two hundred and thirteen miles ; which affree;^ Of July.] JOURNAL. at agrees exaftly with the obfervation. At three in the afternoon, brought to and founded no fathom; foft muddy ground : hoifled out the boat and tried the ftream ; found it, both by the common and Bou- guer's log (which agreed exaftly) to run half a knot North ; Black Point bearing E N E. At four the lon- gitude by the watch was 9° 31' E: ai eight the vari- ation, by the mean of nineteen obfervations, 11® 53' W. I could not account from any apparent caufe for this great change in the variation : the weather was fine, the water fmooth, and every precaution we could think of ufed to make the obfervations accurate. The dip was 80® 26'. Plying to the Northward. 30th. At midnight the latitude by obfervation was 78" o' 50". At four in the morning, by Lord Charles Cavendifh's thermometer the temperature of the water at the depth of 1 18 fathoms was 31^ of Fahrenheit's j that of the air was at the fame time 40*^ t. At nine in the morning we faw a (hip in the N W, (landing in for the land. Having little wind this morning, and that Northerly, 1 ftood in for the land, with an intention to have watered the fiiip, and got out immediately^ but was prevented by the calm which followed. At jioon the latitude obferved was 78^ 8'; the dip 79** 30'. At two in the afternoon we founded in 1 1 5 Tathom ; muddy bottom : at the fame time we fent down Lord Charles Cavendifh's thermometer, by which we found the temperature of the water at that depth to be 33" ; that of the water at the furface was at the fame time 40°, and in the air 44° |. Fahrenheit's thermometer plunged in water brought up from the fame depth, flood at 38** f . This evening the mafler of a Green- land fhip came on board, who told me, that he was juft come out of the ice which lay to the Weflward about fixteen leagues off, and that three fhipshad been lofl this year, twoEnglifh, and one Dutch. The wea- ther fine, and rather warm. At fix in the evening the longitude by my watch was 9^ 28' 45 ' E. July 1 ft. Little wind Northerly, or calm, all day : the weather very fine, and fo warm that we fat without a fire, and with one of the ports open in the cabin. At noon the latitude obferved was 78^* 13' 36'; Black Point bearing S 78*" Ej which makes the latitude of B 3 that 1 y It ■» • #^Tf^My(pU»^!! ' Jf^,|WUi^» y^imr^r i I • .1 aa JOURNAL. [July. that ppint nearly the fame as that of the (hips and agre ^s. V^ry well with the chart of this coaft in Purchas. 2d. Little windy and calms, all day ; the weather very fine. At fix in the morning ftve fail of Green ? landmen in fight. At noon the latitude o^ferved w'4s 78** 22' 41". I took a furvey of the coaft, as far a& we could fee ; I took alfo with che megameter the alti- tudes of feyeral of the mountains : but as there is no- thing particularly interefting to navigators in this part of the coaft, I (hall only mention the height of one mountain, which was fifteen hundred and three yards. This may ferve to give fome idea of the appearance and fcale of the coaft. At half paft fix the longitude by the watch was g^ 8' 30" E : Variation 14° 55" W. 3d. Latitude at midnight 78*^ 23' 46" : Dip 80** 45', The weather fine, and the wind fair all day. Running along by the ?oaft of Spitft)erger, all day : feveral Greenlandmen in fight, Between nine and ten in the evening we Avere abfeaft of the North Foreland, bear- ing E b S i S, diftance i i mile. Sounded in twenty fathom : rocky ground. 4th. Very little wind in the morning. At noon the latitude by obfervatipn was 79* 31'. M^gdalena Hook bore N 39^ E diftant about four niiles ; which gives the latitude of that place 79** 34' ; the fame as Fotherr by obferved it to be in 1614. Stood in to a fmall bay to the Southward of Magdalena and Hamburgher's. Bay : anchored with the ftream anchor, and fent the boat for water. About three in the afternoon, when the boat was fent on Ihore, it appeared to b.e high wa- ter, and ebbed about three feet. This makes high water full and change at half an hour pafl; one, or with a S S W moon ; which agrees exa^ly with Baffin's obfervation in 161 3. The flood conies fron^ the South- ward. Went alhore with the aftronomer, and inftru- ments, to obferve the variation. A thick fog came on before we had completed the obfervations. The (hip. driving, I weighed and ftood out to fea under an eafy fail, firing guns frequently to Ihew the Carcafs where we were ; and in lefs than two hours joined her. Soon after (about four in the hours morninff the 5th) the Rock- ingham Greenland (hip ran under our fl;ern, and the mafter told me he had juft fpoke with fome (hips (fon\ "/ wl^icK July.] journal; 25 which he learned, that the ice was within ten leagues of Hacluyt*s Head Land, to the North Weft. In con- fequence of this intelligence, I gave orders for fleer- ing in towards the Head Land ; and if it (hould clear up, to rteer direftly for it ; intending to go North from thence, till fome circumftance fhould oblige me to alter my courfe. 5th. At five the officer informed me, that we were very near fome iflands otf Dane's Gat, and that the pilot wifhed to ftand farther out ; I ordered the (hip to be kept N b W, and hauled farther in, when clear of the iflands. At noon I fteered North, feeing no- thing of the land ; foon after I was told that they faw the ice : I went upon deck, and perceived fomething white upon the bow, and heard a noife like the furf upon the fhore ; I hauled down the ftudding fails, and hailed the Carcafs to let them know that I fhould ftand for it to make what it was, having all hands upon deck ready t4> haul up at a moment's warning : I defired that they would keep clofe to us, the fog being fo thick, and have every body up ready to follow our motions inftantaneoufty, determining to ftand on under fuch fail as ftiould enable us to keep the ftiips under command, and not riik parting company. Soon after two fmall pieces of ice not above three feet fquare pafled us, which we fuppofed to have floated from the ihore. It was not long before we faw fomething on the bow, part black and part covered with fnow, which from the appearance we took to be iOands, and thought that we had not ftood far enough out ; I hauled up im> mediately to the N N W and was foon undeceived, finding it to be ice which we could not clear upon that tack ; we tacked immediately, but the wind and fea both fetting diredly upon it, we neared it very faft, and were within little more than a cable's length of the ice, whilft in ftays. The wind blowing frefti, the ftiips would have been in danger on the lee ice, had not the officers and men been very alert in working the fliip. The ice, as far as we could then fee, lay nearly E b N and W b S. At half paft feven in the evening, the ftiip running entirely to the Southward, i^nd the wea- ther clearing a little, I tacked, and ftood for the ice. When I faw it, I bore down to make it plain j at ten the / a4 JOURNAL. [July, the ice hy from N W to Eaft, and no opening. Very foggy, and little wind, all dvard. I ran in amongft the fmall ice, and kept as dole jAjly.l JOURNAL. 25 clofe as poflible to the main body, not to mifs any- opening. At noon. Cloven Cliff W j- S feven leagues. At one in the afternoon, being ftui amongd the loofe ice, I lent the boat to one of the large pie- ces to fill water. At four we ftioaled the water very fuddenly to fourteen fathom : the outer part of Clo- ven Cliff bore W i N : Redcliff, S i E. The loofe ice being open to the E N E, we hauled up, and im- mediately deepened our water to twenty-eight fa- thom-; muddy ground, with ihells. At half pall four, the ice fetting very dole, we ran between two pieces, and having little wind were (lopped. The Carcals being very near, and not anfwering her helm well, was almofl: on board of us. After getting clear of her, we ran to the Eaftward. Finding the pieces in- creafe in number and fize, and having got to a part lefs crowded with the drift ice, I brought to, at fix in the evening, to fee whether we could difcover the leaft appearance of an opening : but it being my own opinion, as well as that of the pilots and officers, that we could go no farther, nor even remain there with- out danger of being befet, I fent the boat on board the Carcafs for her pilots, to hear their opinion ; they both declared that it appeared to ^them impra6licable to proceed that way, and that it was probable we ihould foon be befet where we were, and detained there. The ice fet fo fad down, that before they got on board the Carcafs we were faft. Captain Lutwidge hoifted our boat up, to present her being ftove. We V/ere obliged to heave the (hip through for two hours, with ice anchors from each quarter ; nor were we quite out of the ice till midnight. This is about the place where mod of the old difcoverers were flopped. The people in both (hips being much fatigued, and the Carcafs not able to keep up with us, without carrying ftudding-fails, I (hortened fail as foon as we were quite out, and left orders to (land to the Northward under an eafy fail : I intended, having failed in this attempt, to range along the ice to the N W, in hopes of an- opening that way, the wind being fair, and the tveather clear ; refolving, if I found it all folid, to fettirn to the Eaftward, where probal)ly it might by ■:■"■■■■■ : ■. ■ • .■ ■ . ' • ■ ' ■ th^t ■"fw 26 JOURNAL. [July. that time be broken up, which the very mild weather encouraged me to expert. 8th. Little wind in the morning, and a fwell fetting on the ice, we were obliged to get the boats a-head, to tow the (hip clear; which they efFe£ted with difficul- ty. A breeze fpringing up when we were within two cables lengths of the main body of the ice, flood in for the land, and attacked at two, to (land to the N W for the ice ; but the weather coming thick between five and fix, I flood in again for the land. It clearing up foon after, I bore away again N W for the ice. At ten, fpoke with a Greenland fhip which had juft left the ice all clofe to the N N W. Between eleven and twelve the wind came to the S W, with an heavy fwell and thick weather. Double-reefed the topfails, and tacked at twelve, to (land in for Hacluyt's Head Land, not thinking it proper to run in with the faft ice to lee- ward in thick weather, without even the probability of an opening ; and propofing if that weather conti- iiued, to compleat the fhip's water, and be ready with the firfl wind, off or along the ice, to look out for an opening, and run in. To avoid any inconvenience which from the experience of the preceding day I per- ceived might happen, from too many running to one place on any fudden order, I divided the people into gangs under the midfhipmen, and (lationed them to the ice hooks, poles, crabs, and to go over upon the ice when wanted. 9th. Having a fair opportunity, and S W wind, ftood to the We ft ward ; intending, when the weather was clear, to make the ice to the Northward, and rua along it. About twelve, clearer ; faw the faft ice to the Northward, and the appearance of loofe ice to the N W : ftood direflly for it, and got amongft it be- tween tv/o and three ; fteering as much to the North- ward as the fituation of the ice would permit. At (ix obferved the dip 8i° 52'. At half paft feven, found the ice quite faft to the Weft, being in longitude 2^ 2' E, by our reckoning, which was the fartheft to the Weftward of Spitftjergen that we got this voyage. At eight the fog was fo very thick, that we could neither fee which way to pufh for an opening, nor where tho Carcafs was, though very near us. That we might July.] JOURNAL. ^i not rilk parting company with her, I was obliged to ply to windward under the topfails, tacking every quarter of an hour to keep in the opening in which we were, and clear of the ice which furrounded us. At four in the afternoon we were in 80° 36 . lOth. We loft the Carcafs twice in the night, from the very thick fog, and were working all night amongll the ice, making very Ihort ticks ; the opening being fmall, and the floating ice very thick about the Ihip. The (ituation of the people from the very fatigumg work and wet weather, made the moft minute precau- tions neceflfary for the prefervation of their healih : wc ijow found the advantage of the fpirits which had been allowed for extraordinary occafions; as well as the ad- ditional cloathing furnifhed by the Admiralty. Not- withftanding every attention, feveral of the men were confined with colds, which afFefted them with pains in their bones; but, from the careful attend incc giv- en them, few continued in the fick lift above two days at a time. At nine in th^ morning, when it cleared a little, we faw the Carqafs much to the Southward of us. I took the opportunity of the clear weather to run to the Weft ward, and found the ice quite folid there; I then ftood through every opening to the Northward, but there alfo foon got to the edge of the folid ice. I was forced to haul up to weather a point which ran out from it. After I had weathered that, the ice clofr- ing faft upon me, obliged me to fet the forefail, which with the frefh wind and fmooth water, gave the Ihip fuch way as to force through it with a violent ftroke. At one in the afternoon, immediately on getting out into the open fea, we found a heavy fwell fetting to the Northward ; though amongft the ice, the minute be- fore, the water had been as fmooth as a mill pond. The wind blew ftrong at S S W. The ice, as far as we could fee from the maft head, lay E N E: we fleer- ed that courfe clofe to it, to look for an opening to the Northward. 1 now began to conceive that the ice was pne cpmpafb impenetrable body, having run along it from Eaft to Weft above ten degrees, I purpofed, |iowever, to ftand over to the Eaftward, in order to afcertain whether the body of ice joined to Spitftier- gen. This the ^uantity*of loofe ice had before ren- dcred|< I l9 JOURNAL. [Julj-. dcred imprafticable: but thinking the Weftcrly winds might probably by this time have packed it all that way, I flattered myleif with the hopes of meeting with no obftru£tion till 1 fhould come to where it joined the land ; and in cafe of an opening, however fmall, I •Was determined at all events to puih through it. The weather clearer, and the land in fight. 1 ith. At half paft four in the morning the longitude by the lunar oblervation was 9° 42' E. And at the fame time by my watcS 9° 2' E. Cloven CliflF S S E, diftant eight miles. This would make the longitude of Cloven CliflF 9° 38' E ; which is within twenty mi- mites of what it was determined by the obferVations «nd furvey taken in Fair Haven. At noon the latitude Obferved was 80° 4' ; Vogel Sang W S W. Little ttrind and a great fwell in the morning. Calm moft part of t\\e day. 1 2th. Calm all day, with a great fwell from the S W, and the weather remarkably mild. At eight in the evening longitude by the watch lo** 54' 30" E : Cloven Cliff S W b S, The Carcafs drove with the current fo near the main body of the ice, as to be obliged to anchor ; (he came to in twenty-fix fathom water. 13th. Calm till noon, the fhip driving to the Weft- "^'ard with the current, which we obferved to be very irregular, the Carcafs being driven at the fame time to the Eaftward. Near the main body of the ice, the detached pieces probably affeft the currents, and occafion the great irregularity which we remarked. We had found an heavy fwell from the S W the fe two days. At two in the afternoon it came on very fuddenly to blow frefh from that quarter, with foggy weather : we worked into Vogel Sang, and anchored with the beft bower in eleven fathom, foft clay. The place where we anchored is a good roadftead, open from the N E to the N W. The Northeaftern- moft point is the (^loven CliflF, a bare rock fo called from the top of it refembling a cloven hoof, which appearance it has always worn, having been named by fome of the firft Dutch navigators who frequented tbefe feas. This rock being entirely detached frortii the other niounlains, and j6ined to the refl of the. ifland July.] JOURNAL. 29 idand by a low narrow ifthmus, preferves 'm all faua- tions the fame form ; and being nearly perpendicular^ it is never difguiled by fnow. Thele circumilances render it one of the mod remarkable points on the coaft. The Northwefternmod land is an high bluff point, called by the Dutch, Vogel Sang. This iound, though open to the Northward, is not liable to any inconvenience from that circumdance, the main body of the ice lying fo near as to prevent any great fea } nor are (hips in any danger from the loole ice fetting in, as this road communicates with feveral others formed by different iflands, between all which there are fafe palTages. To all the founds and har- bours formed by this knot of Iflands, the old EngliHi navigators had given the general name of Fair Haven ; of which Fotherby took ain plat 1614 : that in which the Racehorfe and Carcafslay at this time they called the North Harbour ; the harbour of Smeerenberg, didant about eleven miles, (in which we anchored in Augud) they named the South Harbour. Befides' thefe, there are feveral others ; particul^ly two, called. Cook's Hole, and the Norways, in both which feveral Dtitch (hips were lying at this time. Here the ihore being deep-to, we completed our wa- ter with great eafe, from the dreams which fall in many places down the fides of the rocks,' and are pro- duced by the melting of the fnow. I fixed upon a fmall flat ifland, or rock, about three miles from th& ihip, and almod in the center of thoie idands which form the many good roads here, as the propered place for erecting a tent, and making obfervations. The foggy weather on the 14th prevented us from ufing the indruments that day. I regretted this cir- cumdance much, fearing it would deprive me of the only probable opportunity of making obfervations on ihore in thofe high latitudes, as our water was nearly recruited : however, having little wind with the weather very fair from the i$th to the i8th in the morning, I made the bed ufe of that time. Even in the clear- ed weather here, the fky was never free from clouds, which prevented our feeing the moon during the whole of our day, or even being fure of our folar obfervations, Mr. Lyons never having been able to ffCt 30 JOURNAL. tJuJy. get equd altitudes for fettling the rates of going of the time-keepers. Once indeed '-ve were fortunate enough to oblerve a revolution of the fun, of which I availed myfelf to determine the going of the pendu-^ lum adjuded to vibrate feconds at London. During the courfe of this experiment^ a particular and con* Hant attention was paid to the ftate of the thermome- ler, which I was furprifed to find differ fo little about noon and midnight ; its greateft height was 58°^, at eleven in the forenoon ; at midnight it was 51**. On the 16th, at noon, the weather was remarka-* bly fine and clear. The thermometer in the fhadc being at 49°, when expof^^d to the fun rofe in a few^ minutes to 89*^ -I and remained io for fome time, till a fmall breeze fpringing up, made it fall lO** almofl: in- ftantly. The weather at this time was rather hot ; fo that I imagine, if a thermometer was to be gra* dilated according to the feelings of people in thefe la- titudes, the point of temperature would be about the 44th degree of Fahrenheit's fcale. From this ifland I took a furvey, to afcertain the fituation of all the points and openings, and the height of the moft re- markable mountains : the longed bafe the ifland would afford was only 618 feet, which I determined by a crofs bafe, as well as aftual meafurement, and found the re- fults not to differ above three feet. To try how far the accuracy of this furvey might be depended upon, I took in a boat, with a fmall Hadley's fex»:nt, the angeli between feven objefts, which interfe£ked exadly when laid down upon the plan. \ had a farther proof of its accuracy fomc days after, by taking the bear- ings of Vogel Sang and Hacluyt's Head Land in one, which correipoHded exaftly with their pofition on my chart. On the 1 7th, the weather being very clear, I went up one of the hills, from which I could fee feveral leagues to the N E : the ice appeared uniform and compact, as far as my view extended. During our (lay here, we found the latitude of the ifland on which the obfervations were made, to be 79° 50' ; longi* tude 10^ 2' 30" E; variation 20*^ 3^' W ; dip 82* 7': latitude of Cloven Cliff 79® 53'; longitude 9* $y 30" E: Hacluyt's Head Land 79** 47 ; longi- tude r ■ 1 July.] JOURNAL. jt tude 9® ii' jo" E. The tide rofe about four feet, and flowed at half an hour after one, full and change. The tide fet irregularly, from the number of iflands between which it paflcd ; but the flood appeared to come from the Southward. 1 8th. The calm weather fince the 14th had given us full time to fiiiiih the obfervations, and complete our water : a breeze fpringing up in the morning, I went aihore to get the inllruments on board. Be- tween one and two we weighed, with the wind Wefterly, and ftood to the Northward. Between eleven and twelve at night, having run about eight leagues, we were prevented by the ice from getting farther. We ftood along the edge of it to the South- ward. At two in the morning, being embayed b) the ice, I tacked, and left orders to ftand to the Eaftward along the edge of the ice, as foon as we could wea- ther the point ; hoping, if there (liould be no openings between the land and the ice, that I ihould at leaft be able to afcertain where they joined, and perhaps to difcover from the land, whether there was any profpeft of a paflage that way : At that time the ice was all folid as far as we could fee, without the lead appearance of water to the Northward. 19th. At fix in the morning we had got to the Eaftward among the loofe ice which lay very thick in fhore, the main body to the Northward and Eaftward : the land near Deer Field not four miles off, and the water ftioaled to twenty fathoms. Here we found ourfelves nearly in the fame place where we had twice been ftopped, the ice fituated as before, locked with the land without any paflage either to the Eaftward or Northward : I therefore ftood back to the Weft ward. At noon the Northernmoft part of Vogel Sang bore S W b S, diftant about feven leagues. The weather being very fine, and the wind to the Eaftward, we were, enabled to coaft along the ice to the Weft ward, hauling into all the bays, going round every point of ice in fearch of an opening, and ftanding dole along by the main body all day, generally within a ftiip*s length. 20th. At half after three in the morning the land was out of fight, and we Imagined ourfelves in ra- . ther more than eighty degrees and an half ; fome of the if I ' 3a JOURNAL. [Jiily, I he openings being near two leagues deep, had flatter* cd us with hopes of getting to the Northward ; but thele openings proved to be no more than bays in the iTiiiin body of the ice. About one in the afternoon, we were by our reckoning in about 80° 34', nearly "m the fame place where we had been on the 9th. About three we bore away for what appeared like an opening to the S W j we found the ice run far to the {Southward. 2 1 ft. We flill continued to run along the edge of the ICC, which trended to the Southward . At noon we were in the latitude of 79^ 2,6,^ by obfervation, which was twenty-five miles to the Southward of our reckoning. Finding thi.t the direfition of the iee led us to the Southv/a>d, and that the current fet the fame way, I flood to the Northward and Weft ward clofe along ihe ice, to try whether the fea was opened to the Northward by the wind from that quarter. At nine in the evening we had no ground with aoo fathom «f line. At ten we got into a ftream of loofe ice. The weather fine, but cool all day, and fometimes foggy. 22d. At two in the morning we bore away to the N E, for the main body of the ice ; the weather be- came foggy foon afterwards. At fix we faw the ice j and the weather being ftill foggy, we hauled up to the S S E, to avoid being embayed in it.- The air very cold. 23d. At midnight, tacked for the body of the ice^ Latitude obferved 80*^ 1 3 38". Rainy in the morning j fair in the afternoon ; ftill working up to the North- ward and Eaftward, with the wind Eaftcrly. At fix in the evening, the Cloven Cliff bearing South about fiK leagues, founded in 200 fathom, muddy ground ; the lead appeared to have funk one third of its length in in the mud. At two in the morning, with little wind, and a fwtll from the South Weft, I ftood to the North-^ ward amongft the loofe ice : at half paft two the main body of the ice a cable's length off, and the loofe ice lo clofe that we wore fhip, not having room or way enough to tack ; ftruck very hard againft the ice in getting the fliip round, and got upon one piece, which lifted her in the water for rear a minute, be- fore her weight broke it. The iliips had been fo well ftrenethened. •? \ July.] JOURNAL. 33 ftrengthened, that they received no damage from thefe ftrokes; and I could with the more confidence pufli through the loofe ice, to try for openings. Hacluyt's Head Land bore S 50^^ W diftant about leven leagues. 24th. By this fituation of the ice we were diiappoint- td of getting dire6tly to the Northward, without any profped: after fo many fruitlefs attempts of being able to fucceed to the Weftward ; nor indeed, could I with an Eafterly wind and heavy fwell attempt it, as the wind from that quarter would not only pack the loofe . ice ciofe to the Weftward, but by fetting the fea on it, make it as improper to be approached as a rocky lee jfhore. To the £aftward on the contrary it would make fmooth water, and detach all the loofe ice from the edges ; perhaps break a ftream open, and give us a fair trial to the Northward ; at all events, with an Eafterly wind we could run out again, if we did not find it pra£licable to proceed. Finding the ice fo fall: to the Northward and Weftward, it became a defira- ble objeft to afcertain how far it was poflible to get to the Eaftward, and by that means purfue the voyage to the Northward. Thefe confiderations determined me to ply to the Eaftward, and make another pufli to get through where I had been three times repulfed. In ■working to the Eaftward, we kept as near the body of the ice as poflible. At noon the Cloven Cliff" bore S W b S about feven leagues. At fix we were work- ing to the N E, and at nine we fteered to the S E, the the ice appearing more open that way : we had frefii gales and cloudy weather. Thefliip ftruck very hard in endeavouring to force through the loofe ice. At midnight the wind freftiened, and we double reefed the topfails. It was probably owing to the frefli gales this day, as well as to the fummer being more advan- ced, that we were enabled to get farther than in any of our former attempts this way. We continued coafting the ice, and at two in the morning the North part of Vogel Sang and Hacluyt's Head Land in one bore S 65^ W ; Cloven Cliff" S sa** W ; the neareft part of the fliore about three leagues ofi^. When I left the deck, at four in the morning, we were very near the fpot where the ftiips had been faft in the ice on the 7th in the c'vening, but rather farther to the Eaftward ; C we f 34 JOURNAL. [July, we had pafled over the fame fhoal vater we had met with that day, and were now in twenty-fathom, rocky, ground ; ftill amongft loofe ice, but not fo clofe as we had hitherto found it. 23ih. At feven in the morning we had deepened our water to fifty-five fathom, and were ftill amongft the loofe ice. At noon we had deepened our water to feventy fathom, with muddy bottom, at the dif- tance of about three miles from the neareft land. By two in the afternoon we had pafled Deer Field, which we had fo often before attempted without fuccefs ; and finding the fea open to the N E, had the moft flatter- ing profpeft of getting to the Northward. From this part, all the way to the Eaftward, the coaft wears a different face ; tiie mountains, though high, are nei- ther fo fteep or ftiarp pointed, nor of fo black a colour as to the V/eftward. It was probably owing to this re- markable difference in the appearance of the (hore, that the old navigators gaVe to places hereabouts the rames of Red Beach, Red Hill, and Red Cliff. One of them, fpeaking of this part, has defcribed the whole country in a few words : ** Here (fays he) I faw a more *' natural earth and clay than any that I have feen in all the country, but nothing growing thereupon more than in other places." At two in the afternoon we had little wind, and were in fight of MofFen Ifland, wliich is very low and f^at. The Carcafs being becalmed very near the ifland ia the evening, Captain Liitwidge tooK that opportunity of obtaiiiingthe following exa6t account of its extent, which he communicated to tne. " At lo P M, the body of MofFen Ifland bearing EbS diftant two miles ; founded thirteen fathoms; rocky ground, with light bfown mud, and broken fhells. Sent the mafter on (hore, who found the ifland to be nearly of a round form, about two miles in diameter, with a lake or large pond of water in the middle, all frozen Over, except thirty or forty yards round the ed^e of it, which was water, with loofe pieces of broken ice, and fo ftiallow they walked through it, and went over upon the firm folid ice. The ground betv. een the fea and the pond is from half a cable's length to a quarter of a mile (C its nature and the pl;ice of its growth. Ail that which we faw (ex- cept the pipe-rtaves taken notice of by Doftor Irving on the Low lilard) was fir, and not worm-eaten. 'J he plice of its growth I had no opportunity of a)certainm{^. The n.ture of the ice was a principal obje^ of attention in this climite. We found always a great fwell near the edge of it; but whenever we got with- in the loofe ice, the water Wiis cohriantly fmooth. The loofe fields and flaws, as well as the interior part of the fi.xcd ice, Were tl:U, and low ; with the wind blowing cf Aug.] JOURNAL. 47 blowing on the ice, the loofe parts were always, to ufe the phrafe of the Greenlandmen, packed i the ice at the edges appearing rough and piled up j this roughnefs and height I imagine to proceed from the fmaller pieces being thrown up by the force of the fea on the folid part. During the time that we were fail amongft the Seven Iflands, we had frequent op- portunities of obferving the irrefiftible force of the large bodies of floating ice. We have often feen a piece of feveral acres fquare lifted up between two much larger pieces, and as it were becoming one with them ; and afterwards this piece fo formed a£iing in the fame manner upon a fecond and third ; which would probably have continued to be the effe6t, till the whole bay had been fo filled with ice that the dif- ferent pieces could have had no motion, had not the dream taken an unexpe6ted turn, and fet the ice out of the bay. 19th. Weighed in the morning with the wind at N N E. Before we got out of the bay it fell calm. I obferved for thefe three or four days, about eleven in the evening, an appearance of Du(k. 20th. At midnight, being exa6^ly in the latitude of Cloven Cliff, Mr. Harvey look an obfervalion for the refraction ; which we found to agree with the tables. The wind Southerly all day, blowing frefli in the af- ternoon. About noon fell in with a ftream of loofe ice, and about four made the main ice near us. Wc flood to the W N W along it at night, and found it in the fame fituation as when we faw it before ; the wind frelhened and the weather grew thick, fo that we loft fight of it, and could not venture to ftand nearer, the wind being S S W. 2 1 ft. At two in the morning we were clofe in with the body of the Weft ice, and obliged to tack for it ; blowing frefli, with a very heavy fea from the South- ward. The wind abated in the afternoon, but the fwell continued, with a thick fog. 2?,d. The wind fprung up Northerly, with a thick fog ; about noon moderate and clearer ; but coming on to blow frefli again in the evening, with a great \zd, and thick fog, I was forced to haul more to the Eaft- vvard, left we (hould be embayed, or run upon lee ice. The feafon was fo very far advanced, and fop's as well msmm \i 48 JOURNAL. [Aug. well as gales of wind fo much to be expefted, that tto- thing more could now have been done, had any thing been left untried. The fummer appears to have been uncommonly favourable for our purpole, and afforded us the fullelt opportunity of alceftaining repeatedly the fituation of that wall of ice, extending for mbre than twenty degrees between the latitudes of eighty and eigh- ty-one. Without the fmalleft appearance of any opening. I fhould here conclude the account of the Voyage, had not iome cbicrvations and eJtperiments occurred on the pMfiVge home. '•• ' v'^' • ' •• In il:eering to the Southward we fcori found the wea- ther grovv more rnild, -r rather to our feelings warm. Auguft 24th, VI- faw jupiter: the iij^ht of a ftar was now become almoft ?.s extraordinary a phenomenon, as the fun at midnighi '.yhen v.e firft get v/ithin the ar6tic circle. The wea-.her w :s very fine for iome part of the voyage ; on th: 4th of September, the water be- ing peifedly fmooth with a dead calm, 1 repeated with fuccefs the attempt I hac m; dc to get loundings in the main ocean at grea; depth'., and Itruck ground in fix hundred and eiiihty-ttiree fathoms •, the bottom was a fine foft blue clay. From the 7th of Septem- ber, when v/e Vv'ere off Shetland, till tiie 24th, when we made Orfordncfs, we had very hard gales of wind with little intermifficn, which were conftantly indi- cated leveral hours before they came on by the fall of the barometer, and rife of the manometer; this prov- ed to me the utility of thofe iritruments at fea. In one of theie gales, the harden:, I think, I ever was in, and with the greateH: lea, we lofl three of our boats, and were obliged to heave two of our guns overboard, and bear away for fome time, though near a lee fhore, to clear tlie fhtip of vrater. 1 cannot omit this oppor- tunity of repeating, that I had the greatell reafon on ihis, as well as every other critical occafion, to be fa- tisfitd with the behaviour botli of the officers and fea- mcn. In one ol thefe gales on the I2l\\ of September, Dr. Irving tried the tempeiature of the fea in that date of agitation, and found it confiderably wnrmer than that of the atmofphere. Tliis obfervation is the more intercfling, as it a.grees with a paflige in Plutarch'3 Natural QuelVioiif, not (I believe) before taken notice of, or confirnud by experiment, in which he remarks, that K ^^W" 4t €( md Aug.] J O T7 R N A L; 49 that the fea becomes warmer by being agitated in waves." The frequent and very heavy gales at the latter end of the year, confirmed nie in the opinion, that the time of our failing from England was the projereft that could have been chofen. Thelc gales are as co nmon in the Spring as in the Autumn : th;;re is every reafon to fuppofe therefore, that at an early feafon we fhould have met with the fame bad weather in going out as we did on our return. The unavoidable neceflity of car- rying a quantity of additional ftorcs and provifions, rendered the fliips fo deep in the water, that in heavy gales the boats, with many of the (lores, muft proba- bly have been thrown over board ; as we experienced on our way home, though the Ihips were then much lightened by the consumption of provifions, and expen- diture of (lores. Such accidents in the outfet muft have defeated the voyage. At the time we failed, ad- ded to the fine weather, we had the further advantage of nearly reaching the latitude of eighty without feeing ice, which the Greenlandmen generally fall in with in the latitude of feventy-three or feventy-four. There was alfo moft probability, if ever navigation (hould be prafticable to the Pole, of finding the fea open to the Northward after the folftice ; the fun having then ex- erted the full influence of his rays, though there was enough of the fummer (lill remaining for the purpofe of exploring the feas to the Northward and Weflward of SpitfbergeHo on fa- ea- er, ate an Die h'3 ice hat F I N T s;