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Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont film6s en commengant par la premidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaftra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole —^ signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbols y signifie "FIN". Les ca.'tes. planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre film6s d des taux de reduction diff^rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clichd. il est film6 A partir de Tangle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite. et de haut en bas. en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m^thode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 n z^, y SKETCHES 7 OF 1. TOUE FEOM CMADA TO PARIS, BY WAY OF THE BRITISH ISLES, DURmG THE SUMMER OFl«i. By ANDREW LEARMONT SPEDON, AUTHOR OF THK WOODLAND WAU^LEB,— TALES OF THE CANADIAN FOREST,— RAMBLES AMOSO THE BLUE 508E3,— CANADIAN BUMMER EVSXISO TAI.SS, &C. Go where we will — whiaertT wmm we riew Th' iutiatlate eye diMKrrtxv ««ai»«hin)r new ; Scenes, people, laiigxute«, ■tmsiKoit'. faflhions, rLso Tho' old, yet new, and Btnuafv to foreigrn eyeH ; Whilst ART nnfolds its du^ myweriAcu pa^m Of man's own hlBl<:»y thrr/ a nlicajWiad 4jre!«, Even midst the ruinc of di»aianrii£*liifHi towers Times' dial stands, ai>d roarti t&e ancient hoar^, The scenes we view — tite T«ry 4aMi we tread Enshrine the silent hibl«nt» «< i^hc iknd. PRINTED FOE THE AUTHOB, 1868. PRINTED BY JOHN LOVELL, ST. NICHOLAS STREET. 1868. \^ 9S4- CONTENTS. CHAPIER I. Page Introductory Kcmarks— Embark on SS. Moravian at Qucboc— River and Gulfot St. Lawrence— Reflections—Icoberiss— My ship com- panions— Sea-sickness, its effects !— An unexpected interview, in- cidents, &c. — First sight of the Irish coast, Loch Foylo— Arrival at Londonderry, &c.- Description of the town; its walls, histori- cal sketch, sieges, &c.— Departure— Description of, scenery, &c. — Belfast; its manufactures, &c.— Departure to Scotland; passen- gers, &c.— First sight of the Scottish coast— Firoth of Clyde, &c. . 7 CHAPTER II. Greenock, &c.— Description of scenery along the Clyde— Dunbarton Castle— Kilpatrick, originally the i^esidente of St. Patrick— Ship- building, &c.— Arrival at Glasgow; historical and topographi- cal sketch of the city; other characteristics, &c.— Departure- Stirling Castle, &c.— Falkirk; its historical associations, &c.— Lin- lithgow; its palace, &c.— Departure for Edinburgh— Description of the country ; its people, characteristics, railways, &c., &c 22 CHAPTER III. Edinburgh ; hotels, dieting, &o.— Morning stroll— Walter Scott's mon- ument— Calton hill— Arthur Seat— Working Men's Eating Rooms —Imposition of Hotel keepers — "Visit to the house in which I was born— Incident at the Hotel— Visit to the Palace and Abbey of Holyrood; its historical associations— Historical and topographi- cal sketch of Edinburgh ; characteristics of the City, Street criers, Fishwives, &c.— Visit to the dungeons of Burke and Hare, noted murderers— Hugh Millar's house— Parliament BuildiugR— College —Royal Museum— Castle, &c., &c 89 CHAFIER IV. Departure from Edinburgh to the South of Scotland— .Descriptive views of the country and its characteristics as seen from the rail- way—An incidental and unexpected interview— Ualaohields, &c. —Selkirk— Scenery of the Ettrick and Yarrow; characteristiofl of the people, &c.— Visit to Abbotsford; it0 awociations, &c.— Mel- ■jr- IV CONTENTS. Pagb rose town and Abbey— Eildon Hills— Bowden—Drybiirgh Abbey — Cowdenknowes— Earlston— Learmont'8 Tower- The Khyraer's Prophecies; historical associations, &c.— Earlston antiquary— De- parture 57 I'. CHAPTER V. Valley of the Tweed; its scenery and characteristics— Kelso— Queen Victoria's visit to Flours Castle; her reception, &c., at Kelso, and proceedings, incidents connected therewith— Visit to Edenhain, birth-place of the poet Thomson — Sprouston — letholm, residence of the IJorder Gypsies — Linton, and its associations— Jedburgh— Queen's visit to that town, &c.— Historical and topographical sketch of the place— Return to Edinburifh— Departure from Leith to England, by Nortli Berwick, Bass rock, Tamtallan Castle, St. Abb's Head, Berwick, &c.— Departure by rail from Berwick for London; characteristics of the country,&c.— Newcastle— Killing- worth, birtli-place of Robert Stephenson; its associations— Dur- ham, York, &c., with their associations— Descriptive views of country, people, &c., &c.— Arrival at the cityjof London 78 H CHAFIER VI. Morning stroll in London— Historical and Topographical Sketch of the city— Food and Liquor Supplies — Taverns and Coffee-houses— Gas and Coal Supplies— Police and Firemen— Thames, Steamers, Ware- houdcs— Docks— Bridges— Grades of Society— Places of amuse- ment — Post-Office — Scholastic and Charitable Institutions — Churches— Museums— Parks— Palaces-Monument of the " Great Fire "—Streets— Tower— St. Paul's Cathedral— Parliament Build- ings — Westminster Abbey — An interview with " London Sharpers " 97 CHAPTER VII. V Visit to Spurgeon's Tabernacle— Description of Spurgeon ; his stylo of preaching, &C.— Dr. Cummiug, &c., &c,— Sail to Richmond, Kew, Chelsea ; also Greenwich and Woolwich, with description of them, &c. — Visit to the Crystal Palace— Sharpers— Indians and their games, &c.— Departure for J'ranco by Steamer— Passengers —Amusing incidents on board— Arriv al at Boulogne— Descriptions of the town, people, &c,— Departure for Paris by rail— Sketches of scenery, &o., &c.—Criel—Amions— Arrival at Paris 127 CHAPTER VIII. My first improssirns of Paris— Magnificence of the city, &c.— Visit the Madeiiue— Pantheon — Notre Dame and other Churches — How Sat)bath is spent iu Paris- Historical and Topographical Sketch % CONTENTS. V Paob o< the city- Visit, llio Kcolo Militairo -Hold den Invalids— Tomb ofNapoloon I.— TInco de la Concordo and its iissnciations— Gar- dpns and palacoof tho Tuilories. &c.— Champs Klysees— Triumphal Arch— Museums of tho Louvro, Cluny. &c.— An Evening Stroll — Vixit to the celebrated Gobelin Carpet manufactory — Charitable Institutions— Cemeteries — Catacombs — Theatres, &c,— Character- istics of I'arisiun Society, Ac 160 CHAFrER IX. Visit to the Universal Exhibition—Description of its exterior and In- terior— Incidents— Characteristics, &c., connected with it — My im- pressions of the Canadian Department in the Exhibition — Visit to the Bois do Boulogne — Versailles, &c.— Additional Characteristics of Paris— Bull dinARt^. 9 Isle, there being no fog at the time, we had an excel- lent view of the barren and rugged coasts of New- foundland and Labrador, on either side. At length, we bade farewell to the receding hills, and entered upon the high-seas. The feelings of a person at such a moment, particularly for the first time, are in gen- eral of a somewhat peculiar nature. Behind him he sees, perhaps for the last time, the shadowy glimpses of the distant and disappearing land. Before him in immeasurable expanse arises a world of undulating waters peopled by a strange variety Oi innu.merable creatures: he feels, as it were, isolated frcmthe earth — his life, perchance, measured by - Wy a few niches of oak or *ron — subiect to the waves and wnds, and no solid chance of running from danger. Oace more he stretches forth his dim vision over the vaoi expanse, and conjures up the dreary shadows of his soul, which awaken kindred feelings within his heart ; he finds himself but a stranger among many ; he draws more closely to his ship-companions, and strives to glean from those most congenial to himself, a substitute for home-happiness to refill the vacuum of his heart, and relieve the tedium ol the passing hours. Immediately after leaving the straits the air became intensely cold, produced by the number of ice-bergs floating around. During the two days that we saw them, I counted no less than sixty, only one-third of them is above water. Some of them were exceedingly large, and seemed like the hoary monsters of the antedeluvian age. While gazing upon one of them that covered an exten- 10 SKETCHES OP A TOUR Hi m HI !i ^ sivc area, the following zV^-olated ideas dripped out of my poetic but almost frozen fancy : — Hail arctic stranger from thy kindred North ; Land of deep snows and icy pyramid ; Like Noah's dove thou strangely wanderest forth Above a solid world by waters hid. And yet no spot of earth hast thou discover'd, But further venturest from thy native home, Like some lost isle that from its base is sever'd, Or huge sea-monster mid the realms of foam. Thou hast a history — for all things have — A life — perchance a thousand years are thine ; And now thou wanderest forth towards thy grave, Where hotter suns on milder waters shine. Perhaps on thee the Lapland maids have courted. Or some old Greeulander has train'd his deer, Or Iceland hunters in their furs have sported. Or Esquimaux have thrown the fatal spear. And yet perchance thou know'st some sadder tales : Of Franklin's fate thou may'st th' inscription bear ; Perchance thou heard'st his death-distracted wails, Amid the storm that mocked hi$ dying prayer. Perhaps his blood bestain'd thy marble dome, When gushing from the wounds by savage foes ; He may have found in thee an arctic tomb, But southern suns may yet his fate disclose. Like some wing'd insect to the taper's breath Thou flyest southward to the realms of light, Emblem that life is but continued death, A wasting downward to the grave's deep night. My ship companions consisted chiefly of British Canadians. Several of them were wealthy farmers FttOM CANADA TO PARIS. 11 going to purchase cattle for the improvement of their stock :— others, simply on a visit to their native coun- try ; some for the rennovation of their health ; and a few to see the Paris exhibition; also two or three English families homeward bound after a few months sojourn in Canada, perfectly disgusted with the country and its people. In reference to the latter, I may add that instead of months it generally requires years to test the merits of our country and become acquainted with its excellent institutions and developments. There were also a few elderly virgins who had emigrated from Scotland a few years before, for the benefit of a change, and to show their good graces to the Canadian youths ; but were also returning disaffected with the country — its bachelors in particular. On the whole, my companions of the voyage were a very orderly, sociable, and intelligent class. Shortly after entering upon the ocean, the sea being somewhat rough,— the signs of a sudden convulsion in human nature became visible, and ere long a number of volcanoes began to belch forth lava, exhibiting a really terrific aspect ; but after all, it was only an eruption common to such places, and designated by nautical philosophers as " Sea JSiokness,*' Fortunately I was not affected by its spasms, but I really pitied many of those who were ; while, in looking upon others I could scarcely refrain from indulging in a smile ; still it is not a pleas- ing sight to the beholder to witness everywhere around him the groaning outbursts of poor suffering humanity : he feels a qualmish effervescence arise within himself, and turns hastily away with disgusted feelings, to pre- 12 SKETCHES OP A TOUR ,1 serve an equilibrium within his stomach by inhaling a salutary pufFof air from the passing gale. One of our number was a sea captain who had recently lost his ship on a voyage to Quebec ; and was then re- turning homewards. He was a Northern Irelander, a widower, of about 50 years of age, and possessed of an agreeable appearance and manner. During the season of sea-sickness he was attentively kind to the ladies, — ^but more especially to one whom he had in- cidentally recognized as a familiar acquaintance of his younger years ; and on whom he had bestowed a considerable share of his first love. Some 18 years ago, and shortly after getting married to another, she had emigrated with her husband to Canada, and never afterwards had seen the captain until they met to- gether on board the Moravian. Her husband had recently died, leaving her a sufficient competency for life. She was at this time returning to pay a visit to her native isle. The captain paid his addresses to her faithfully ; and their familiar intercourse elicited re- marks from their fellow passengers, — but neither of them appeared to show any uneasiness whatever. During each favorable opportunity they were to be seen, arm in arm together pacing the deck, or sitting closely by each other, whispering their loving joys. This occurrence produced a magical effect upon the captain's appearance. Every morning he devoted two hours to the duties of the toilette, so that he might thereby produce a good impression upon the affections of the widow. All went on swimmingly beautiful until the morning of the day we entered Loch Foyle on the FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 13 inhaling One of ntly lost then re- elander, jessed of ring the d to the I had in- tance of stowed a 18 years ther, she ad never ' met to- land had ;ency for a visit to es to her cited re- either of rhatever. re to be or sitting ing joys, upon the roted two he might affections iful until le on the Northern Coast of Ireland. It appears that they had previously agreed to arise at an early hour so as to have sufl&cient time to adjust their articles and arrange affairs for their projected marriage. At early dawn I heard the captain astir as usual, but earlier. Hav- ing performed his morning oblations he sprucely walked forth, like a man of dignity, to meet his grace- ful paramour. Having waited a short time at the place appointed, and she not having appeared, he walked down into the ladies' apartment and quietly entered the room in which she slept. She and her companions, each in separate berths, were still soundly asleep. He stepped forward softly to awaken her, but either through the excitement of his feelings or his ignorance of the topography of the room, he committed a serious blunder by seizing hold of another lady's foot, and shaking it. The woman imagining that some rat was tugging and gnawing at her extremities, instantly started up, and seeing the figure of a man before her, she wildly vented a terrific screech which was followed by a series of appalling screams. Her companions were also suddenly aroused, and simultan- eously, joined in chorus, awakening every sleeper in the other apartments. The captain, on discovering his error, leaped out of the room, and in his hurry, bump- ed his head against the upper part of the door, — es- caping himself, but leaving his castor behind him as a memorial of the event. At the breakfast-table, one of the under stewards exhibited the hat on the end of a stick, announcing his desire to discover the owner — which brought forth a series of cheers and wit, without 14 SKETCHES OP A TOUR M i M H any person attempting to lay claim to the head-piece. The captain had concealed himself ; but, a few hours afterwards was seen with his fair lady making a hurried exit from the steamer into a smaller one that lay ready to convey them and others up Loch Foyle, to the city of Londonderry. Little incidents were daily occurring which served as food for gossip, and rendered the time on board less monotonous. One, however, of a more serious nature is deserving of special notice. About 4 in the morning, of the first Monday, after our leaving Quebec, a number of us were awakened by a tremen- dous knocking against the door of the steward's room, and several voices demanding him to arise and give them more liquor. He ordered them to go off, where- upon they retired, belching against him a tirade of abilse. Desirous of ascertaining who they w ere, a few of us followed them up stairs, and on reaching the upper deck, beheld five of the cabinites in glorious intoxication, chasing and hauling each other around the deck. One of them was dragging another in wheel-barrow fashion — the legs serving as handles. The rest were endeavoring to appropriate each other, in turn, to a similar purpose, — and this was the novel method of sobering off. A number of the crew and passengers were looking on, laughing and cheering lustily. Suddenly the performance was brought to a close by the appearance of the captain, who reprimand- ed them severely, and ordered them down stairs imme- diately. The floor of the smoking-room, wherein they had carried on their lunatic revelry all night, was covered with broken bottles and tumblers; its win- PE03I CANADA TO PARIS. 15 i-piece. w hours hurried ,^ Y ready the city !curring the time • a more About ' leaving tre mea- l's room, tnd give , where- irade of be, a few ling the glorious around )ther in handles, ih other, le novel ew and heering ght to a )rimand- rs imme- ein they ;ht, was its win- dows, seats, table and lamp were shattered, — the whole presenting a spectacle of the farcical and closing scene of the Bacchanalian drama. This disgraceful affair was gOon quashed. Money will do much to cover the follies of the sons of rich men ; nor were they alone guilty. The steward who had sold them the five bottles of ardent spirits, especially on Sabbath night, was even more sinful than they. The only radical preventive of such evil is to ^ve no liquor, whatever, to any passenger, unless pre- scribed by the doctor on board, and that, too, irrespec- tive of grade, wealth, or distinction. As we approximated the Irish coast the air became warmer, and sea-birds were hovering around in large numbers. On the morning of the 10th day of our voyage, the mountains appeared in view, and before noon the steamer was plying along the silvery waters of Loch Foyle, which separates the counties of Derry and Donegal. When within 25 miles of Londonderry, those passengers wishing to land in Ireland, were passed into a ferry-boat, waiting there for the purpose. The Moravian then wheeled about and proceeded on her journey to Liverpool. I was one of the number who disembarked, on account of it being the shorter route to Scotland, by crossing thither from Londonderry or Belfast. On gazing upon the green hills that receded gently from the shores of the Loch, I was wonderfully impressed with a curiosity of feelings. There was a richness of verdure, and a softness in the expression of the soil, even upon the rocks, that out^ rivaled anything I had previously seen. The land- scape presented a variety of small fields of grain, &c,, 16 SKETCHES OF A TOUR H m mi in I of different shades, hedged m ; the whole resembUng a coverlet of fantastic patchwork. Adjacent to the roads, at short distances were to be seen comfortable- looking farm-houses, each sheltered by a clump of trees. As we neared Londonderry, the scenery assumed a more pleasant and variegated aspect, occasioned by the greater number of trees interspersed over the surface. At length the ancient city appeared in view, its spires and high buildings standing forth in bold re- lief ; we soon neared its wharves. Our baggage was inspected by the Custom-house officers; then with joyous gratitude for my safe journey over the deep, I stepped upon shore, and for the first time had the honor of placing my foot upon the soil of old Ireland, On the wharf were a number of men and boys, ready to convey baggage, &c. Their vehicles were simply hand-carts. How unlike the convenient system of our Canadian conveyance. 1^ umbers of destitute- looking women and children were supplicating alms, or selling eatables, &c.,and on every occasion expressing their gratefulness for favors received, with the hearty ejaculation of " God bless yer sowlj and may ye never want^^ &c. The city, particularly the part within the walls, presents a very ancient appearance. It is, how- ever, pleasantly situated upon an eminence arismg from a bend of the beautiful Loch Foyle. On the summit, is the old cathedral, with its burying-ground. Within its walls are preserved many of ihe relics and memor- ials of the seige of 1688-9. The walls that enclose the ancient part of tLo city are of considerable height, and in some places sufficiently wide for two carriages ITROM CANADA TO PARIS; 11 bo the rtable- f trees, imed a led by er the a view, )old re- ige was jn with e deep, had the Ireland, id boys, es were t system estitute- ; alms, or [pressing Q hearty ye never rithin the t is, how- sing from ) summit, Within i memor- enclose e height, carriages to pass. On their western extremity stands ' Walker's' monument, — plain, but graceful — and bearing an in- scription appropriated to him. Several cannon were lying upon the ramparts, among which was the cele- brated ' Roaring Mag.' Memorable as the seige of 16P8-9, has rendered the name of Londonderry, it does not constitute her only claim to distinction. Many circumstances of a much earlier date distinguish her among the interesting spots of that lovely and in- teresting country. The extreme beauty of the situation, added to its peculiar value as a sea-port, seems to have recommended it from the earliest times as a desirable post. The name by which it was first designed was Berry-Calgah, which signifies " The oak-ivood of the fierce warrior. ^^ In former days the slopes that extend down to the Loch were covered with oaks, and upon the summit of the hill stood the castle of Calgah, bid- ding defiance to the rival clans around, and to the hostile invaders who might approach him from the neighbor- ing coasts. In the 6th century the celebrated Columbs- kill a native of Donegal, selected this tempting site, and erected a monastery thereon, as a house of prayer and devotional retirement for men of piety, who were zealous in the study and propogation of Divine truth. Thus, in the course of years did the warlike castle of Calgah give place to the temple of the Christian patriot which formed the nucleus of the " oahgirt-dty,^^ In 1566 the garrison of the city passed into the hands of the English. Up to that period the native race had held possession, defeating all who had hitherto attempir 9 i'j! \ : . i l • ! . iji '(!(, I 18 SKETCHES OF A TOtJH ed to dislodge them. . In 1600, the work of regular fortification was commenced, enclosing the town with walls, and placing it upon the defensive. In 1649 it stood the seige of 4 months ; and during three fourths of a year withstood the terrible seige of 1688-9. The garrison of the town amounted to 7,343, and the inhabi- tants to above 30,000,all of whom were confined to a very limited space. During the first three and a half months of the siege no less than 9000 corpses were interred. The receptacles of the dead being filled, there was a want of earth to cover the putrefying bodies, and the shells aimed at the living frequently fell among the dead, producing sights and exhumations, the most hideous and revolting. The scenes and suiferings of the p<^ople are described as horrible, and the reality, so overpowering, as scarcely to leave room for the wildest fancy to present an exaggerated picture of the scene. On the following day I proceeded by rail to Bel- fast, a distance of nearly 80 miles. The parts of country through which I passed appeared beautiful and in many places delightfully romantic, affording a number of excellent landscapes, worthy of the pamter's pencil or the poet's pen. The land in general is of an undu^ lating character, arising in places to high eminences, again descending into fertile vales,intersected by silvery streams; and everywhere exhibiting the freshness of verdure, rarely to be seen in other countries. The air, which had been comparatively warm during the morn- ing and the previous day, became raw and foggy, and l^efore I had reached the city of Belfast, the clouds were fROxM CANADA TO PARIS. 19 regular wn with 1649 it e fourths 9. The le inhabi- L to a very If months interred, jre was a 3, and the ,mong the the most fferings of tie reality, n for the ;ure of the ail to Bel- ) parts of lutiful and a number ier's pencil >fanundu^ jnnnences, ^ by silvery •eshness of The air, the mom- foggy, and lloudswere descending in a drizzling shower. This city is conve- niently situated to the river Lagan ; and is much larger, and has a more modern appearance than Lon- donderry. During the last few years it has made rapid progress in prosperity and improvements ; nor has its population hesitated to keep pace therewith, it being at present 160,000, having an increase of 40,000 ill 6 years. It is a city of commerce and manufacture ; and in the export of cattle carries on an extensive trade. During the week previous to my arrival, 4,358 horned cattle were exported, 2788 for Scotland, and the remainder for England. It has an excellent harbor and spacious docks. Nearly 12,000 vessels enter yearly. The exports of 1866 were 11,900,000 tons; and in the articles of linens and yarns, which may be said to constitute its special industry, it was enormous, there being of the former, 102,000,000 yds. exported, and of the latter, the amount was of a corresponding ratio. The afternoon that I landed in Belfast being dis- agreeably wet, and feeling somewhat unwilling to pro- tract a stay, I embarked on steamer that evening for Glasgow, and therefore had not the opportunity of making a tour throughout the city. What little I saw of Belfast, or even of Ireland, I had formed a some- what favorable opinion, particularly of the appearance of the country ; but taking circumstances into conside- ration I must give the preference to Canada, for where the privileges are equal and universal the greater must be the prosperity of the people. I may here remark that the horses I saw in Ireland appeared Ia 20 SKETCHES OP A TOUIl general to be similar to our Canadian ponies, but taller, they were lively in appearance, and trotted nimbly. The Irish jaunting car was quite a novelty to me, it is side-seated, without either railing or cover, and contains two passengers on either side, placed back to back, while the driver sits in front, his back to their sides. Another person can also be accommo- dated with a seat at the rear, and placed so that h*s face is looking behind him. Had such vehicles to pass over some of the jagged roads of our country at the same ratio of speed, in less than five minutes not a vestige of the riders would be seen on board. They may be agreeable to ride upon, but they looked sus- piciously dangerous ; however, they had a light and airy appearance, and presented a striking contrast with the other class of Irish carts to be seen rolling heavily along. With the anticipation of again visiting Ireland, on my return voyage, I bade farewell to it for the time being. The steamer contained a mixed cargo of freight and cattle, — also crowded with pas- sengers, so densely, that there was scarcely a place to sit comfortably in. There were a number of good Irish singers on board ; and these were the boys and girls who knew how to sing with pathetic glee, throw- ing, as it were, their whole soul into the chorus; and had there been sufficient room, no doubt there would have been also a good Irish jig. Nearly all of them had a noggin of the real potheen with them, so as to prevent sea-sickness, and preserve their spirits in excellent humour. Nothing of an indecent or jarring nature occurred, and the whole scene passed off FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 21 pleasantly, with a good sprinkling of mother-wit, for which the Irish are distinguished. Next morning, at dawn, I had the pleasure of seeing, in the distance, the western coast of my native isle, and ere long the steamer was forcing its way towards the Clyde, among some of the lofty isles of the Western Hebrides. The morning was indeed mild and lovely, and the s^m arose in majestic splendor, causing the fog that mantled the summit of the isles to disappear, and showing forth, in romantic loveliness, the twin Cum- braes, and their sister islands. Numbers of fisher- men, in their little boats, were gliding over the smooth surface of the Forth, and the sea-birds were sporting, on joyous wing, over the tidal waters. In the dis- tance, on the isle of Bute, Rothsay appeared, and showed itself as a beautifully-situated and lovely place. This town has become of late years a very fashionable resort ; and during summer, numerous pleasure-boats are daily plying between it and Glas- gow, a distance of over 40 miles. At length, we arrived at the quay of Greenock. The wharf was crowded by men and women and children, all staring as eagerly as if they were trying to make the most use of their eye-sight. Several of the women came on board to sell milk, pics, cakes, &c. A sturdy httle fellow was yelling aloud, in the broad Scottish dialect, " Aipples for sale — uhaul hy aip'ples ; twa for a hapney^'^ &ic. ; whilst another dirty, tattered urchin was selling newspapers, and, with a coarse, husky voice, shouting out — " Glasgah Her-raW — " Bdwr hurrah iSeoats-mun ;^' thus giving good emphasis 22 HKETCHEb OF A TOUR the whole, but prolonging the last syllable, ending with a sort of tip-up of his voice. Freight and pas- sengers for this place were sent ashore. Being desir- ous of getting a better view of the town, I disem- barked also ; and, for the first time since my child- hood, set my foot upon the sacred soil of my Scottish isle. W Hi a t C [I AFTER II. Until within the last few years Greenock was the chief port of commerce on the Clyde for ocean*steam- ers ; but since the river has been deepened up to Glasgow, this town has lost much of its trade. Ship- building has, however, taken its place, and is carried on very extensively, giving employment to several thousand people. Arising from the many furnaces in and adjacent to the town, the air and every thing around have a smoky appearance. Owing to its proxi- mity to the Western Highlands many of the inhabi- tants are Highland Scotch. It has a number of fine buildings, but as a whole, has fe\: attractions of either a natural or architectural beauty. A short distance west of Greenock is the village of Gourick, also a sea- port. At this place, in the loth century, one of the Saints of Scotland kept a shop, in which he conducted a profitable business among the sailors by selling charms written in parchment, which were supposed by them to have the effect of either raising the wind or allaying a storm. I FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 23 Proceeding up the Clyde towards Glasgow, the day being exceedingly fine, I had an excellent view of the scenery. The mixture of woods and cultivated fields over the undulating surface dotted with stately man- sions and industrious villages, — and the succession of such beautiful and majestic views, containing such a variety of character — such a combination of sweetness and romantic loveliness, with the iark outlines of the Argyle mountains in the distance — constituted a scene of real beauty, of unrivalled grandeur, and excited a lively interest in the mind of the beholder. It was surprising to lee the vast number of vessels, of every class arid size, impelled by either oar, wind, or steam, that were constantly plying along the river. The pleasure boats were the most attractive. They wore driven by steam, and their peculiar construction en- abled them to move rapidly. Numbers of them, crowded with passengers, were darting to and fro along the river, as it were, with the rapidity of the dove and the gracefulness of the swan. One of the many objects of attraction along the Clyde is Dunbar- ton castle. It is situated on an isolated rock, 560 feet in height and measuring about a mile in circum- ference. The rock appears to have been projected out of the earth by some strange convulsion oi nature. On its summit and within the walls of the castle is a never-failing spring of water — a rather singular char- acteristic. This castle is noted as being the fortress in which Sir Wm. Wallace was confined for a time after he was betrayed. The highest pinnacle of the rock is called " Wallace's seat." A large two-banded 24 SKETCHES OF A TOUR I sword, said to have belonged to him, has been long preserved within the castle. Further up the river ia the village of Kilpatrick, noted as having been the birth-place of St. Patrick — the patriarchial saint of Ireland ; and the spot by the river shore is still shown where he and his sister — both children — were kid- napped and taken as slaves to Ireland by the pirate O'Neil. As I drew nearer the city of Glasgow, I observed that the signs of an industrious people in- creased. From numerous ship-yards on both sides of the river, issued forth the deafening and incessant din of thousands of hammers of the workmen employed upon the many vessels, chiefly of iron, in every stage of construction. The tall chimneys of a hundred fur- naces, belching forth fire and smoke, gave some idea of the extent to which manufacturing is carried on. I may here remark that Glasgow is the greatest place for ship-building in the world. ' During the last year no less than 130 vessels, principally iron steamers, have been launched from its wharves. Up to the Broomielaw Bridge, over an extent of several miles in length, vessels from every part of the world, closely huddled together two and three deep, lined the wharves on both sides of the river. Such a vast as- semblage of ships with their forest of masts, the busy scenes of lading and unlading, the stupendous work- shops of maikifacture and the massive storehouses along the wharves, together with the varied and un- ceasing din of thousands of workmen and machinery, present as a whole, an impressive and almost bewilder- ing efifect upon the astonished mind of the stranger a3 FROM CANADA TO PAEIS. 25 ho sails up the Clyde within the limits of the Great Industrial City. Having arrived at Glasgow, I procured lodgings, and remained a few days to get a general view of the city. Glasgow received its name from the dense grove which at one time occupied its site, and called by the ancient Britons " glascoed " (darkwoods). The city, now comprising several minor towns, occu- pies a highly convenient situation, and is intersected by the Clyde, similar to that of London by the Thames. It may be called the G-reat Emporium of the Com- merce and Manufactures of. Scotland. Although it does not'possess the elegance and aristocratic elements of Edinburgh — still' it is worthy of being called a great city — particularly great in wealth, industry and popu- lation : it now comprises over half a million of people. It contains a number of fine streets and splendid build- ings, especially in the more modern parts, and its many spires give it an attractive aspect in the dis- tance. Its ancient Cathedral — or the " High-Kirk," as it is called — which was founded by King David I of Scotland, in 1123, appears to have been the nucleus of the city. It is a stupendous and venerable-looking edifice of Gothic architecture — more gloomy than ele- gant in aspect — and though situated in a populous city, it assumes the appearance of sequestered solitude. Besides the Cathedral, Glasgow has a number of an- cient buildings, with which historical associations are connected : such as the college, founded in 1450, also the Hunterian Museum, which contains a large col- lection of rare coins, medals, manuscripts, pahitings, 26 SKETCHES OF A TOUE (i and other relics of antiquity. Glasgow has several squares, in some of which are erected statues and monuments in memorial of great men. But the most extensive space of public ground is that known by the name of " Glasgow Green." It is a sort of common, used as a washing and bleaching park, also a prome- nade ground, and is therefore very useful to many of the citizens. At the western extremity is a space de- voted to public meetings, circuses, and Punch and Judy performances. It is the resort also of drunken loungers and dirty dissipated women and children ; while numbers of portable toy and candy tents, &c., are to be seen scattered over it, the whole presenting a disagreeable picture of degraded humanity. On passing through the Park, I was perfectly astonished at seeing over a hundred women therein washing and bleaching clothes, while the younger ones of their families, including infants, were sitting or sprawling upon the grass, the elder ones romping with each other in noisy festivity — a great sight indeed in the midst of a great city. Were such a scene to present itself upon any of the public promenades of our Cana- dian cities, the inhabitants would become perfectly paralyzed with astonishment, and consider it as an in- decent intrusion upon society. Glasgow, like other towns and cities of the " Old Country," presents many sights, that to the eye of a stranger from this side of the Atlantic, appear remarkably strange and in some cases ludicrous. Indeed, I was utterly asto- nished — yes, shocked to see so many married women and children^ and also young women parading about FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 27 the streets barefooted, and without even a covering upon their heads ; in many cases their clothes soiled and tattered, and themselves looking the very picture of squalid poverty and wretchedness. Such specimens of humanity, I suppose, belong to the " lower orders ;" and I have reason to believe that much of this miser- ably degraded state of society, exhibited in indecent rags, may be at- ributed to drunkenness. I think that if the " city fathers " of Glasgow had any respect to the decencies of city life, and the feelings of foreigners, and also desirous of exalting the condition of the lower orders, they would assuredly use the means of prohibiting such an intrusion upon good society. Be it known that the eyes of a stranger who frequents a place, are always staring — and as a few blots mar the [beauties of a picture so will these little irregularities of [life have a tendency to blemish the good effects that might otherwise be produced. Why not furnish em- [ployment to every vagrant, if needed, and when found [lounging upon the street, to have them arrested at )nce, and give them a week's hard labour in the school )f correction. Such means if properly applied would joon eflfect a visible improvement, at least, banish from )ubUc view, such disgraceful sights, with their demor- llizing effects. Among the number of curious charac- jristics I saw in Glasgow, was a novel method of ad- rertising, by men carrying before them, immense pla- cards suspended from their necks, and pacing to and ro with measured step, opposite the shop containing le articles announced for sale, &c. The progfammes )i theatres are frecjuently exhibited in a similar man- 28 SKETCHES OF A TOUR ner, in the city of London. But I saw even a more wonderful sight than those. It was that of a young dandy swaggering down one of the principal streets, having upon his unmentionable part, a grocer's poster containing the words '''Fresh Oysters, For Sale HereP Either some wag had played him a game, or, he him self, had unknowingly carried it away from some grocer's seat on which he had incautiously sat down where the poster was lying with its paste-side upwards. Had he been only possessed of the eyes of a Janus or influenced to look back like Mrs. Lot, he might have seen a number of persons chuckling at the sight of the ludicrous appendage. Another striking charac- teristic of Glasgow, is the prodigious size of the horses ; in stature they resemble elephants ; and the ponder- ous carts with their massive wheels that roll heavily behind them, appear as if both wood and iron were in abundance, and designed by their maker to outlive several generations. Those animals draw immense loads, and move as if every muscle in their body were composed of iron. Their drivers, attired in corduroy jacket and trousers, with heavy, tacked shoes, move steadily by their side, in the same ratio of slow, but cautious speed. Owing to the streets being laid with stone, and walled on either side by massive buildings of the same material, — the numerous heavily laden vehicles with their iron axles produce such a clanking | and deafening noise, as to render a walk along the I thoroughfares of Glasgow more disagreeable than plea- sant. Owing to the immense quantity of coal consumed | in and around the city, everything connected with the ! fROM CANADA TO PARIS. 2D diii: charac- place is contaminated with smoke. Tlie very sunbeams are impregnated with carlx)n, and even the very citi- Izens themselves assume a dingy appearance. But it lis not bj the hue of the superficial exterior that we I must judge of Glasgow. Look to the massive build- ings of stone-work that line the streets, and the count- less vessels that girt its wharves ; enter its capacious store-houses, its splendid shops, and its manufactories ; I its ship-yards, its banking houses, and number the tall chimneys of its vulcanic-works, and you will form some I idea of the immense commerce, the persevering in- dustry and the stupendous wealth, which form the sub- stantial basis of that Great Emporium. Having visited several places of minor importance in the vicinity of Glasgow, I departed, and soon found myself within the ancient town of Stirling. This town [is situated in a very lovely part of country, near to [the river Forth ; and being upon an eminence, com- mands an extensive view of the surrounding scenery. The older part of the town has a gloomy appearance ; the streets are irregular and narrow ; indications of an I encircling wall of fortification are still visible. The most conspicuous edifice connected with the place is the castle. It has been distinguished through many gene- jrations as a fortress of great strength and peculiar im- [portance. It is supposed to have been erected by the *icts, but since that period it has experienced many jhanges and vicissitudes of a warlike character. It was fee birth-place, and the residence of James II and his lescendants until the accession of James VI to the irone of England. The palace connected with the fort* 1 m-^i ^' I n 'i^r. SO SKETCHES OF A Tota ress, and built by the latter Monarch, is a splendid edifice ; its architecture is an anomaly of the Grecian and Gothic ; the exterior of its walls is polished, and contains a variety of figures, grotesquely formed, but many of them are now sadly mutilated. From the Abbey Craig, on which stands the recently erected monument to Sir Wm. Wallace, a beautiful prospect may be seen : the Campsie, and the Ochil Hills in the distance ; the Vale of Menteith nestling among the | ranges of mountains, and also the river Forth glisten- ing in its serpentine course. Having reluctantly taken farewell of the place, I. proceeded on my journey, and after a ride of several miles through an interesting part of country I entered the town of Falkirk, situated in the county of Stirhng. This town is smaller but more regularly built than that of Stirling. It lies on the side of an eminence and is surrounded by a fine pros- 1 pect of both level and hilly country. It is remarkable for. its associations of the past, many battles having; been fought in its vicinity. Near the town is the site] of a battle fought between the Scots and English m\ 1298, and also another between the Highlanders and| the King's forces in 1746. At greater distances froni^ the town many places are designated as having beeiij the scenes of important contests, among which was the| memorable battle of Bannockburn, fought on the 24tli| of July, 1314, between the Scots and English, and inj ■which the latter lost 30,000 men, and 700 knights.] Not far from Falkirk are the celebrated Carron Iron Works, one of the largest in the world. Their interior! as represented to me, appears to be really marvellous,! iTftOif CANADA TO PARIS. Si but it being late in the afternoon when I arrived at Falkirk, and leaving on the following morning, I had not the opportunity of seeing anything beyond their exterior in the distance. Perhaps had I gone to see them I might have been served up with a blank denial of admission similar to that presented to the poet Burns when he visited them. I may here remark that few countries in Scotland are more worthy of notice than that of Stirling. It has been from time imme- morial the battle ground of many conflicting nations, and the scene of many memorable events. Being at one time the boundary of four kingdoms it was frequently made the battle field of contending armies. It was there that the British Romans terminated their bloody struggle with the Aborigmals of the country ; there too, were fought many of the battles so poetically described by Ossian, and there also, on many occasions have the rival armies of the Scots and English contested for the laurels of victory. Over the ground that had often reverberated by the tread of armied men the hand of peace has planted the seeds of industry, and rich harvests are smihng upon the soil that had often been enriched with the blood of men. Instead of the battle cry and the clash of arms are now heard the din of ^machinery and the voice of an industrious and happy [people. My next stopping place on my way to Edinburgh [was the town of Linlithgow, distant about 30 miles eastward of Glasgow. It is situated in a hollow on phe side of a lake encircled by hills. It is a small old fashioned town, and contains many vestiges of anti- I IV: il i>' Mi i ! I ;i'; 1'-1 m 32 SKETCHES OF A TOUlt quity. Many of the buildings look dim with years ; but the present age has done much to improve the place in the shape of comfortable and elegant edifices. The inhabitants appear to be a primitive but industrious people, and feel proud of the his- torical associations connected with the place. Upon a ridge projecting into the lake and adjacent to the town, stands the ruins of Linlithgow Palace. This distinguished edifice, still bearing the marks of archi- tectural greatness, has frequently suffered from the ravages of war, during which time the Scots and English were alternately its masters. It is celebrated as having been one of the seats of Scottish royalty, and within its walls the illustrious Mary, Queen of Scots, first drew the breath of life. During the time of its more active career it underwent many improve- ments as well as mutilations, until the year 1746, when it was set on fire by the royal troops whilst in pursuit of Prince Charles Stuart, and it has ever since continued in its roofless and dilapidated state. I spent two hours within the walls of this palace, viewing the vestiges of its separate apartments and reflecting upon many of its eventful associations. How- sad indeed is the change it has undergone ! Where are now its gilded halls, decorated with gorgeous tapestry, its royal personages, the gay courtiers, the belted knights, and all the princely guests who once revelled in the luxury of lordly banquets made glorious with rich wines, gushing from crystal fountains and sparkling in golden goblets ? Where are now the smiling faces, the joyous laughter responsive to the jest and song, together , FBOM CANADA TO PARIS. 33 with all the innumerable incidents connected with this ancient seat of royalty ? All are forever gone, and buried in the sepulchre of the mysterious Past, and a death-like silence hangs around those solitary ruins, I which now stand as the melancholy monuments of [departed glory. Indeed there is nothing in the works of art that [appear to me so solemnly impressive as the ruins of jome ancient and distinguished edifice. There is ideed a solemn grandeur in Gothic ruins, and every )art, though silent as its former occupants, is pregnant dth the history of its eventful eras : centuries are 5ondensed within its dilapidated walls, around whose sides the tenacious ivy clings, like a child around the )som of its dying parent, unwilling that it should die, id striving to impart a vitality to the ghastly form, order to rescue it from inevitable fate. Another object of curiosity connected with Linlith- )w is the Cathedral. This noble edifice was erected David I ; it is of gothic architecture, aud exhibits bch elaborate and elegant, workmanship. Bearing )n it the mark of 700 years it now presents an anti- lated and venerable appearance. Having a curiosity visit grave-yards, not as a resurrectionist with pick ^d shovel, but in the antiquated style of " Old Mor- [TY," I therefore entered the old burying-ground ^acent to the Church. It is a venerable-looking place, ing crowded with a variety of monumental piles, |bny of which belong to the dead of former gener- ms, and look grim with age, some containing 34 SKETCHES OP A TOUR inscriptions that would baffle the antiquarian eye-glass of a Capt. Grose to decipher them. In a corner of this hallowed ground is a grave that the finger of reproach has long pointed at, and within it lie the ashes i of one whose history demands but a passing notice. Many years ago a boy by the name of Crawford enter- ed a garden adjacent to the town, to steal fruit, but was arrested by the proprietor, who by way of punish- ment tied the hands of the boy behind his back, and conveyed him to his parents, residents of the town j This act was never forgotten by the boy, a deadlji revenge became seated within his bosom, and he onlj awaited an opportunity to return the punishment Shortly after this event he went to Glasgow to learn trade. One evening, a few years afterwards, whc^ returning on a visit to his parents, and whilst passinj the garden he observed the proprietor working ther by himself. An opportunity being thus afforded hi^ of punishing the object of his revenge, he sprang ov^ the wall, and ere the man was aware of the design, knife was plunged into his heart, and he fell a bleediii victim beneath the hand of his murderer. Crawfof immediately hastened from the place, unseen and suspected of the foul deed. Another person was arrestj on suspicion, tried by circumstantial evidence, narrowly escaped the death penalty. The disappej ance of Crawford from Glasgow was somewhat myst ious, but from certain reasons it was supposed that] had been foully dealt with. Ten years passed ai and the murder at Linlithgow had almost cea^ to be talked of. The occurrence, was, howe\ FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 35 suddenly revived by the appearance of Crawford, who had come to place himself under the power of the magistrates. He stated that he had committed the crime ; and having thus gratified his revenge, had fled immediately from the place to elude the hand of justice, and embarked at Leith as a sailor on a ship bound for the West Indies. Five years he had traversed the ocean, and visited many foreign parts ; but like Noah's dove, found no sub- stantial basis, for his restless conscience. He then en- listed in the French army, served in several cam- paigns, fought in many battles, had lived in every state of debauchery, but neither the fumes of brandy nor the scenes and actions of a soldier's life had power to annihilate or diminish the gnawings of an insatiable conscience. He felt that he had committed an irre- trievable error, and could only expiate the crime by giving his own life in return for the life he had taken ; therefore had he come to pay the penalty thereof. [He was immediately taken under custody and con- lemned, and shortly afterwards beheaded by an instru- [ment he had brought from France for the purpose. In [accordance with his own desire, but against the wishes )f several, his body was deposited within the limits of the burying ground, and a simple stone bearing the likeness of the guillotine, was erected to mark the lesecrated spot, where lie the ruins of a murderer — Detested both by man and God, Throughout eternity and time, . His dust is hidden by the sod That cannot hide his crime. 36 SKETCHES OF A TOUR Having spent a very agreeable day in and around Linlithgow, I departed that evening by railway for Edinburgh, 16 miles distant. But before entering the capital I will briefly make a few additional observations of my tour between Glasgow and that city. The prospect of country intervening these two places, as a whole, may be said to be truly beautiful. The sur- face is undulating and diversified with groves, finely cultivated fields enclosed by either stone walls or haw- thorn hedges, while here and there a stately mansion might be seen peeping out through a clump of trees. The roads, though exceedingly good, are apparently but thinly travelled, and that chiefly by the carriages of the gentry. In many respects, art and nature ap- pear to have lavishly bestowed their beauties around ; so far so good ; but were it not for the antiquities con- nected with the town and villages, they would possess | few other attractions. Rows of thatched hovels are an offensive sight to the eye, and even those houses covered with slate or tile, were, in general, very irre- gularly built ; presenting but a dirty uncomfortable appearance, and can bear but a distant comparison with the neat cleanly- looking houses to be seen through- out Canada. The air, in general, was disagreeabljl raw and cold, and from the density of the atmosphere| the sunlight, notwithstanding the beauteous outlines o| nature, presented everything with a bleak and gloomj appearance, not only then, but during the rest of thd time I remained in Scotland. The hay season bein| scarcely over, I had an opportunity at several place! of seeing persons engaged at hay-making. The FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 87 plements in general were heavy and uncouth. The scythes were fastened to a sort of triangular snath, and in size resembled Wallace's two-handed sword, The hay forks were rudely fashioned, and unwieldy. The common Scotch cart, and waggons of massive strength, but without racks, were used in the drawing in of the hay. Everything, indeed, was compara- tively clumsy and inconvenient, and appeared to be a : century, at the least, behind those of the new world. II also noticed at different places groups of persons en- jgaged m hoeing turnips. These consisted chiefly of jwomen, and' in several cases, the steward, with cane [in hand, like a negro driver, was standing behind them mperintending the work. How lamentable a sight, ideed, in a civilized country as Scotland ; truly the ige of slavery has not altogether disappeared from iong a christian people. Had the soul of a Lincoln mt beheld the sight, he would have shuddered at the itain that yet mars the saixicti^ed freedom of the Scot- lash Isle. Poor deluded creatures that you are ! Why n\\ ye wear out the energies of your lives in daily jrvitude upon the field for a paltry pittance? and rorse than all, to be goaded forward by the merciless rrant behind you, who frowns disdainfully upon your mdition, and perchance, considers you scarcely supe- por to the brutes. Many other characteristics might noticed, but by way of concluding this chapter, I fill only add a few particulars connected with the lilways. The track on this route, and in general iroughout the British Isles and France, consist of ro lines. They are very substantially built, and the 3^ SKETCHES OF A TOT^U fit t !i ! trains run sniootlily upon tlieni, the average speed being between 40 and 50 miles per hour ; the cheap- est fare is one penny sterling per mile. The stations are in general of a superior order ; such excellent rail- ways and station-houses would seem to indicate that the cars are proportionably grand — they are the very re- verse — each car is scarcely one-half the length of those in Canada. They are separately divided into several apartments, each having two doors, by which passen- gers can enter from either side. Each apartment contains two seats, which run parallel across the car, and capable of accommodating from 10 to 12 persons. Within these horrible and closely confined dungeons, passengers must sit vis-a-vis during the distance they design to go. They are literally locked in and crowd- ed together like a herd of cattle, destitute of comfort and convenience, minus water-can or closet, and hav- ing no space to either stretch their legs or stir round upon. There are. four classes of such prisons, and the higher differ only from the lower by exterior polish and cushioned seats. The fourth or inferior class, is term- ed the Parliamentary Train, a very political cogno- men indeed, and suggestive of something aristocratic and fashionable, but in reality they are dirty uncom- fortable pens, and fit only for cattle or convicted cri- minals to ride in. But I forbear to delineate further at present, as the steam whistle of the metallic horse announces our proximity to Edinburgh. The dusky | outlines of the castle hill towering above us, are passed, and in the course of a few seconds I find myself land- PROM CANADA TO PARIS. S9 M within the city of my birth — THE great metropolis )F Scotland. CHAPTER in. Lt being dark when I arrived in Edinburgh, I pro- ceeded immediately to a hotel convenient to the rail- ray station. Tea being ready. I became seated at le table with a number of other travellers. I ob- [erved that the same system of table-serving and diet- ig prevailed there as in Glasgow, &c. Generally in ^ur Canadian hotels, the meals, which consist of a va- hety, are served forth at regular hours. Those wish- ig to partake, become seated as one family, and fcmiliarly participate in the general meal, each par- fcking of what he chooses, and yet all paying equally, fot so in Britain. If at tea, for instance, a tray con- lining a set of dishes, including teapot, with bread ^nd butter, are placed before each person, for which le sliilling sterling, at the least, is demanded. Every Iditional article called for has a separate price ; and lould a person procure a variety similar to what is )t for twenty-five cenra in a Canadian hotel, he will id that his meal will bo valued at nearly four times lat amount. Such a system as this must give a great >al of additional labour to cooks and waiters. Where le tca*^ might be sufficient, perhaps, a dozen or two re in use — the whole of which ihows a waste of eco- )my in both the culinary a7't and art-ic\i\ There is common dish to participate in, — no fiiendlj inter- 40 SKETCHES OF A TOUB fM, I in I course in assisting each other at meals ; each one, in a sense, is perfectly isolated from another, and unless previously acquainted, shows a reservedness, and feels as independently as he possibly can. Nor are these the only objections to this system. When a bill is presented to a person on leaving, he will find that fees for waiters, baggage-tenders, shoe blacks, &c., are at- tached thereto : all of which he is compelled to pay. It reminds me of the grog-bill given by an innkeeper to an Irishman. The leading article, " a pint of whis- key," was followed by a long list of dittos. " By my troth," exclaimed Pat, after having surveyed ^ho whole, " I'll not deny but I got the pint of whishk.: j, sir, and I'll be afther paying ye for it ; but by my holy sowl, the nare a pint of ditto I ever got from ye, yer honor; and faith an' I shan't pay ye a cint for them." The hotels in general have not the same conve- nience and accommodation as those in Canada. Some- times a person has to go through a " close," or climb up a flight of stairs before he arrives at one, and even then it is frequently difficult to get the right entrance, their being, perhaps, other doors leading into apart- ments occupied by different families. They are gene- rally without bar-rooms. Liquor is measured out by the mug when sold, and on no occasion are a decanter and glass set down before a person, with the liberal accompaniment, as in Canada, '^ Help yourself y friend^'* Having taken a gas-light view of a few streets ad- joining the hotel, I retired to bed. I arose next morning at five, and on looking out, the fin^t object 1 ic MOM CANADA TO PARIS. 41 ach one, in a r, and unless ess, and feels for are these hen a bill is find that fees , &c., are at- Delled to pay. an innkeeper ^ pint of whis- )s. " By my thai attracted my notice, was the monument erected to Sir Walter Scott. I immediately started forth on [a morning walk, intending to return for breakfast at I eight. I passed through the intervening gardens to i Princess Street, and got a view of the monument. [From its pedestal four pillars arise, forming the same i number of arches, and joining into a column, that rises to a considerable height. In the middle of the [area formed by the arches, is a life-like statue of the I*' great author" in a sitting posture, and also that of lis favourite dog lying at his feet. I was delighted surveyed +hc ^/^ith the appearance of the graceful tracery of the of whishk dv , ut by my holy from ye, yer nt for them." same conve- anada. Some- ose," or climb one, and even ight entrance, g into apart- ^hey are gene- asured out by are a decanter ith the liberal lelp yourself^ ^v .>lumn and its elegant architecture ; but had its alti- tude been a little higher, or its basis somewhat nar- rower and more neatly formed, it would have given a pelief to the under part, which, as it is, assumes the appearance of a chapel, bearing upon it the expres- lion of a shade to the massive and clumsy. I then lirected my steps to the summit of the Calton Hill, on rhich stands a monument to the memory of Admiral relscii, From this point, I had a view of a con- ftHtrabV part of the city ; but, wishing to procure a >e.tcr, I crossed over to the eastern part of the '^^ old )Wii," ma clambered up to the top of Arthur-Seat. Prom this summit I obtained a splendid view of the beat Metropolis, the Firth of Forth, and the sur- )unding country, all of which were beautifully roman- ic and magnificent. The appearance of the city is, .^ed, singularly picturesque, — a strange variety of , castles, tall buildings, and lofty spires charac- jnsed by an antique and venerable magnificence, 42 SKETCHES OP A TOUEt pleasing ; to the eye, yet, solemnly impressive to the feelings, and as a combination of the sternly beautiful of both art and nature, the city of Edinburgh has scarcely a similar parallel. Having gratified my sight- seeing curiosity for the time being, I descended, and whilst passing through the old town, it being then after the stated hour of breakfast at the hotel, I entered one of those Dieting Establishments, designed for the working- classes and others. These excellent institutions are now in ah; ."' -^very town and city in the British Isles. It would be . joncfit to many if the " city fathers" of our Canadian towns would adopt this economical system % of public-dieting, and regulate the working of such establishments by special laws. They are in general well conducted in Britain and contribute considerably towards the city revenue. Good meals are in readiness ajt all hours of the day, and can be obtained cheaply at regulated prices. Having taken breakfast, for which I paid 12i cents, I returned to the hotel. Finding the charge per day to be exceedingly steep I demanded my bill ; it was as follows : 2s. 6d for supper, ditto for bed. Is 6d for room- waiter, ditto for baggage-tender and Is. for baggage room, amounting in all to 9 shil- lings sterling, equal to 12.25. From the above charge my readers would naturally suppose that I was no less a personage than the Lord Mayor of London, or some ■ other pursified functionary of fashionable life. Be its known however that the only article by the name of) baggage was a small valise, the rest being left inj charge at the station-house. In accordance with the! rules of the hotel it was taken fiom me on entering, andp FROM CAN.VDA TO PARIS. 43 UuclmI ill tlio Ijaggage-room ; for tbLs little act of nicrccn- py kindness I had to pay the Is. Gd alluded to. The )m-waiter also performed his part by showing me a 5eping-apartment, and for this Dominal attendance I had to fork over the ditto referred to etc., etc. This ^en is a specimen of exorbitant imposition, which lacks strongly of dishonesty. Had I remained for a jek or so, waiters' fees would have been proportion- ^y much less. But I would like to know why ivellers are compelled to pay waiting servants in kels. It is a disgrace to any city whose laws of }tice would allow or sanction such a system of " Inn- \klng^^'' and it is an insult upon the liberality of those 10 are made dupes of it. In Canada inn-keepers |y their own " helps''* and leave travellers to their jedom to help those who help them. Having settled bill I departed, and soon procured an apparently spectable place, at one half the price of the other, ras determined to be more cautious in future, and |t be compelled to pay extra fees ; therefore, in this ie as in all others afterwards, I made a previous :eement in accordance therewith. I then directed my |urse towards that part of the city in which my rents had formerly resided, and ere long discovered very house in which I first drew the breath of life, some time I stood gazing upon the devoted, spot sad bewilderment of thought, my fancy, like a kdulum, oscillating between two points of my exis- ice, causing my feelings, like the fingers of a time- Ice, to course over the circle of intervening years, giving a deep and silent jexpression to the varied 1 ! Ml II I ; ii li 1 if I ) III ii II Eii MM 1 1 i I 44 SKETCHES OP A TOUR changes of my eventful life. True, I had no recollect- ed association of the place, still, I had gleaned suffi- cient from my parents to make it memorable to me. Witliin its walk I had received the nucleus of my life, and was issued upon the world ; in a word, it was my place of birth ; and even that of itself was sufl&cient to endear it to my soul, and render it to me the most hallowed spot on earth. My parents belonged, originally, to the south of Scotland ; but shortly after their marriage removed to Edinburgh. My father became partner with a gentle- man by the name of Peter Jamieson, and with him car- ried on the building business until the time of our emi- gratioFv t«^^ / merica. During their ten years' residence in Edinburgh, my parents lost by death the four eldest | 01 their family, myself being the only surviving child. * nn ♦ * ♦ * ' * I spent the remainder of the day in travelling about, to get a general view of the city, and in the evening, returned to my new lodgings. Before retiring to bed I| sat down in my room to indulge in a quiet smoke. Being | thus seated, I was suddenly started from my reverie of I thought by a rap on the door. The waiter entered, and stated that a gentleman, who had just arrived, was| desirous of staying over night, he having failed to pro| cure lodgings elsewhere, owing to the influx of visitors! in the city. " I have come," said he, " to see if you| are willing that I should make a couch for him uponi the sofa within your room, as all our beds are occu| pied." " Well," said I, " if he is a gentleman, ad under such circumstances, I have no objections."- FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 45 [aving finished smoking, I placed my pipe, a favour- ite one, upon the table, and retired to bed, but continued keep '''wide awahey The gentleman at length entered, accompanied by another person and the waiter, mt the latter withdrew immediately. The former ap- )eared to be under the influence of liquor, and his jompanion, like a fawning courtier, was coaxingly per- suading him to retire to bed, and offering to assist him undressing, while the other was repeatedly thank- ig him for his kindness, but rejecting his proferred jrvices. From under a comer of the coverlet I peer- sd out, at the same time feigning myself to be asleep, ^he gentleman had a respectable exterior, and his face le indications of an honest soul ; but the actions and bpearance of the other, were expressive of the cun- ling rogue. Placing his arm around the neck of the )rmer, he whispered to him as in secrecy, whilst with le other hand he appeared to exhibit signs of a fellow \eeUng within his bosom. Suspicious of him I was at lat instant about to uncover my head, and order him rom the room, but being in no way connected with leir proceedings, and thinking that quietness might be better policy, I refrained from so doing. Immediately rter he had given the gentleman the friendly hug, he istily withdrew, intimating that he would call again the morning. On his going out, I observed on the )posite wall the shadow of his arm, apparently in the 5t of snatching my pipe from the table. I instantly )rang up — my pipe was, indeed, gone. I opened the )om-door, and heard his footsteps beating a hasty re- peat down the stairw&j. I immediately rang the bell^ 46 SKETCHES OF A TOUR i I ! the waiter instantly appeared, and I ordered him tfi) give chase to the thief, which he did. The gentlemar' at this instant discovered that his watch was also gono Having hastily adjusted my clothes, I followed in pur suit, and at the outlet of a close on the adjoining street met the waiter and a watchman dragging the villaii^ along between them. On accusing him of the theft he confessed, and returned me my pipe. I accuso'»| him, also, of having stolen the watch belonging to th- gentleman. This he also delivered up, and beggC' hard to be set at liberty. Not wishing to stand as ; witness against him at the police court, after the mari ner he had confessed and restored the articles, I ad vised the others to liberate him this time, but to re member him in future. The waiter and policema:| agreed to this, on condition that he would pay them sovereign each. He immediately gave them all he ha< which amounted to about 20 shillings, and was set fi^' liberty, but not before being searched and getting | severe rebuke from the policeman. Accompanied 1 the waiter and watchman, I returned to my room, m^ found the gentleman waiting anxiously my return.- ^ He felt oveijoyed when his watch was restored him, and liberally remunerated the detective and wai | er. He stated that he had arrived that evening fro* Dundee ; had applied for lodgings at several hotel| but all were filled. The last innkeeper he had calli| upon, had directed him to this one, and on leaving,) person stepped forward, and very friendly offered | conduct him to the place, demanding nothing for lil services but a " dram " by way of friendship. TIie| FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 47 each took a glass, and departed. lie was certain the fellow had drugged his liquor, as he felt its peculiar influence immediately after he had taken it. The villian not having fully accomplished his design ere they had reached the hotel, appeared, however, deter- ! mined upon doing so ; for he had dogged his footsteps [into the sleeping apartment, and under the guise of a [friendly companion, so far effected his purpose, \s I described. The watchman then gave the gentleman a kindly word of precautionary admonition, character- iizinghis case by narrating an incident that had occur- Ired a few nights before. He stated that shortly after the arrival of the night train, two men passed him while on his beat, the one apparently a stranger in the icity. He overheard the other say : " We'll cross the gardens to the other side, as it is much shorter than (by way of the bridge." He suspected foul -play, and [softly followed them. Ere they had descended into the hollow he saw one prostrate the other with a blow, and, also another person hurriedly approach them. — He also hastened forward, and beheld the two busily ravishing the pockets of their victim ; but before they [were aware of his presence, he had seized them firmly with iron grasp and prostrated both to the ground. He then shouted loudly for aid. They struggled eagerly to extricate themselves, and had he not received timely assistance, they would have succeeded. They were [recognized as two of the city " black-legs." Their victim who, by this time, had recovered from the stun- [ning blow, stated that he was an American ; that on [arriving by the train, a person stepped forward to him ,1 i >i i !f R ! i I ,f \.i 48 BKETOHES OF A TOUR i and offered to conduct him to a respectable hotel.— | Such were the circumstances, and such were the con- j sequences. His money was, however, recovered : it j amounted to some $1600. The villains were tried, \ and condemned to penal servitude. The Amercan remunerate d the watchma with a purse containing 20 sovereigns, and expressed his gratitude and happi- ness on finding a " Good Samaritan " so readily when*"; he fell among thieves, and concluded by expressing his determination to keep a good " look-out^^ in future whenever he got into a strange city, as a stranger should always beware of strangers^ On the following day I visited Holyrood, &c. The || original part of this magnificent palace was founded ^j by James the 4th, but not completed until the time nj of Charles II. It is built in the form of a quadrangle, with a front 215 feet long and flanked with double towers. In the centre of che front is the grand en- tra-nce, over which are sculptured the " Royal firms' of Scotland. On my visit to this palace, I was con- ducted by the keeper through the different apartments, a few of which I will briefly notice. The first I entered was the picture gallery — 150 feet long by 24. It k hung round with portraits of a hundred reputed Kings of Scotland, — from the misty times of Fergus I down to the end of the Stuart dynasty. Several oi these paintings were slashed by the sabres of Hawley'i dragoons after their defeat at Falkirk, but were subl sequently repaired. This apartment is historical! interesting from it having been used by Prince Charle ^ a ball-room during his stay at Holyrood. Ofte PRdM CANADA ^0 t»AftT8. 49 stable hotel.— were the con- recovered : it IS were tried, Che Amercan rse contsdning iide andhappi- reacdly when*^ [by expressing owt" in future as a stranger •ood, &c. The Q was founded until the time ■ a quadrangle, jd with double the grand en- " Royal x\.rnis' lace, I was con- ent apartments, Q first I entered g by 24. It \i- andred reputed) nes of Fergus 1 3 }ty. Several o;| )res of Hawley':^ :, but were subi t is historicallj' y Prince Charles' iolyrood. Oftei^ ts its floor reverberated to the tread of this unfor- inate Prince, and how often within its walls have the ly courtiers and the guests of royalty, in rich cos- imes, mingled joyously in the revelry of the music id the dance. 1 then entered Lord Damley's apart- mts, which also contain a number of paintings &c., long which I noticed two beautifully executed pieces ancient tapestry embellished with historical repre- itations. Leaving those rooms, I ascended a stair- ly, and soon found myself in the interesting apart- mts of Mary, Queen of Scots. The ceiling of ^e audience chamber is divided into panelled com- rtments, adorned with the initials and armorial bear- 5S of royal personages, and the walls are hung round bh ancient tapestry, the colors of which are almost iterated by the hand of time. In this apartment is i ancient bed, said to have been occupied by Charles [when resident in Holyrood. It has evidently been one time a magnificent piece of furniture, and its rtains, now mouldering and moth-eaten, are of em- jed velvet. On this bed, Prince Charles the un- bunate descendent of its former occupant, reposed [September 1745, and after the battle of Culloden, conqueror, the duke of Cumberland, placed his upon the same pillow. This room contains also mmber of old paintings, some richly embroidered rs and other articles of furniture, of ancient dj^*? ; it derives its chief interest from its fair but au- bunate occupant, Mary, of whose distressing alter- ^ons with John Knox, it was frequently the scene. 60 SKETOHBS OF A tOVik III I next entered Queen Mary's bed room, the ceiling of) which is also decorated with the emblems and initialsj of Scottish Sovereigns, and its walls adorned with^ tapestry. In this room stands the bed of Queen Mary. Its decayed hangings are of crimson damask with green silk fringes and tassels. Adjoining, was the Queen's | dressing apartment, also her supping room, notedf as having been the scene of the assault i the unfortunate Bizzio. The vivid imagination can easilj realize the particulars of that tragical and tei rible event. The Queen forcibly restrained bj Damley. The overthrown table and scattered vianc — the fierce and scowling conspirators pressing for ward, and the dagger left sticking in the body Rizzio, who crouches behind Mary for protection,-| the bloody assassins then dragging their victim througl the other royal apartments, stabbing him as ^e wei until he fell dead at their feet. The histo ^ am romantic associations connected with these rooi render them, undoubtedly, the most iateresting aparij ments in Scotland, and their melancholy and fadej aspect are in admirable keeping with their tale of soa row and of crime. As a whole, the palace of Holyroo is ft magnificent structure, and with it are connecte many other interesting events. To these royal a| ments James the 5th conducted his youthfid brid( Madeline, daughter of Francis I, of France— in tiie pomp of royalty, amid the aicclamations of enthuuastic multitude ; but within 40 days, the co hand of death was ktid upon her, and the youths H^autiful Queen was carried outy and buried in FftOM CANADA TO PAttlS. 61 adjoining abbey. Holyrood was occasionally the [residence of Mary of Guise, second queen of James the 5th, and mother of Mary, Queen of Scots. It also became the ordinary residence of Mary after her return to Scotland in 1561, and thence occurred those events [which inseparably connect Ilolyrood with her eventful life, and invest its venerable apartments with a thrilling iterest. But I forbear to scrutinize the character of ^ueen Mary, to weigh her virtues and her errors licely in the balance. The genius-loci forbids such an iquisition. Within those walls Mary Stuart is looked ipon only as that lovely, suffering, intensely interesting roman, whose loveliness of person, the graces of her lanner, and tragical death have drawn eloquence from le pens of so many illustrious historians, and whose beautiful countenance has peered tb ough the day reams of many of Europe's mightiest poets. In con- lection with this Palace are the ruins of the ancient |ibbey of Holyrood, erected in the 12th century by )avid I. It is said to have been a splendid edifice id richly decorated in the interior. It contained a umber of chapels with altars, dedicated to different lints, among which was one to St. Crispin, the reputed jpresentative of the shoemakers. Within this abbey, lary, in an evil hour, plighted her honour to the foolish id dissipated Damley. There too, many of the sov- reigns of Scotland have been crowned, and also ried. It contains a number of tombstones, monu- mts, &c., the inscriptions of which are nearly all [iterated. Many are the historical associations con- ited with this once noble and distinguished edifice; u w i|! ■■> i V <\m b2 SKETCHES dl^ A TOUR ! ! but the reckless hand of time, together with tlic ravages of war, have mouldered down its magnificent and ela- borate workmanship into a mass of shapeless ruins. During my stay in Edinburgh, I unexpectedly dis- covered a few old acquaintances of my parents, among whom was a family by the name of Speden, relatives of my own, and with them had the pleasure of occa- sionally spending a few happy hours. Accorapanieil by a friend, I visited a number of other distinguished edifices, &c. I will now briefly notice a few of them, and other characteristics connected with the city. Tin nucleus of nearly every town of any antiquity can bt j traced to the situation of some castle, sea-port, d. j religious edifice. Edinburgh evidently owes its origii '' to the castle and the Firth of Forth. It is pleasantly situated on a number of rising grounds, in the mid? of a fertile and comparatively level country, and pi( sents a picturesque and romantic appearance. It coi sists of the Old and the New town, which are divide by a deep hollow, now the basis of the railway tlia j intersects the city ; access between them is renderol available by two or three very substantial bridges. M old town, better known by the name of "Auld-Reekie| presents in many parts an irregular, old-fashioned a| pearance, whereas the new town exhibits a beauty i modem architecture and systematical arrangeme| scarcely to be equaled in Britain, and as a whole, ui be termed a magnificent and fashionable town, buildings of both towns are composed of stone, and i streets are laid with the same material, which givel Btemness and solidity to the aspect, emblematicall FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 53 le Scottish nation. Edinburgh, in respect to the lumber of its population, commerce, and manufacture, much inferior to Glasgow. However, it is charac- jrized and distinguished as the seat of literature and irisprudence, and the home of numbers of fashionable id wealthy people. Nevertheless there is a consider- ible amount of poverty and wretchedness in the city. ilong the narrow and filthy avenues of Cowgate and Janongate, and in other parts, many dirty disagreeable )oking women and children may be seen parading )out, &c. But much of this misery may be attributed whiskey, of which the Scotch, in general, are parti- [ularly fond. Another variety of attractive objects, jldom if ever to be seen in a Canadian town, are the [umbers of itinerary hawkers of fisn and other articles, irrying them around upon their backs or in hand-carts, id announcing their presence by peculiar cries, such " Caller-Herring^ saxpence a dizzen^'* " ^Tkulk% id Buckles,''^ " Dulse and Tangle,''^ &c. ; whilst jrliaps a dusky looking fellow with portable grindstone sliouting vociferously, ** Shears and razors to grind, griid, to grind, ^^ &c. Then perhaps is setn another, ick as the nether funnel,and with a monotonous melan- loly tone crying out ^' Sweep, -sweep^-he-sweep^^^kG., lich reminded me of the Canadian weather-cock, an- incing the approach of a rain-F. ^orm. With the excep- m of the Indian Avomen of Novth America I never saw [more singularly odd-lockiiig class than the fish-wives, seeing them for the first time I fancied them to have jlonged to a tribe of squaws, peculiar to tlie country, ley V car a number of petticoats of different colours, 54 BKETCUES OF A TOUR i IP ^ifiii ^i ill')' ! I and while one or more hang down, the others art bun- dled around their haunches, which give them a singu- larly bulky and sturdy appearance. The upper part of the body is encased in a sort of short gown, or rather a piece of coarse cloth, with two or more napkins of different hues, enclosing the bosom, while perhaps a rude cap with a number of ruffles, cover the head. These, with the extreme shortness of their petticoats, and their coarse limbs covered with long stockings and brogues, together with their large creel" suspended on their backs, give to them a most antiq. i and gro- tesque appearance. It is quite an amusing sight to i see a number of them returning in the evening to their; respective homes at the sea coast. They walk with a | considerable air of importance, and appear as if they had belonged to some other country beyond the limits of civilization. A visit to the fish-market will repay al stranger. It is there that their characteristics are! fully developed, and where the odour of their tonguesj as well as that of their fish, smacks strongly of Bil| lingsgate and Fisher-row. It would occupy too mucLj space to narrate all the interesting and amusing charj acteristics I saw in Edinburgh. I will, however, no-l tice a few of the chief places I had the pleasure o| visiting. In the western part of the city, adjacent toj the Castle Hill, still exists the noted den of the notorij ous murderers Burke and Hare, who, about the year 1828-9, carried on for some time the business of dc coying unwary stragglers into their house, killing . them, and then selling their bodies to Dr. Knox o| the medical college. By a narrow " close " or lane* IgBfWMUJi FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 55 entered the den — now inhabited — and was permitted take a view of the different apartments. In the jiling convenient to the room in which the victims rere despatched, is still to be seen the trap-door irough which the bodies were passed ; the whole of rhich has a gloomy and murderous aspect, made even lore so by the horrors excited by the imagination, ^hese bloody villains were at length arrested, but not ^ntil they had taken the lives of upwards of twenty jrsons. Burke suffered the extreme penalty of le law ; but Hare, by havihg turned King's evi- dence, was liberated. He at length succeeded in find- kg his way into the wild forests of Canada, and set- led in the district of New London, and having drag- )d out a few years of a miserable blood-stained dstence, he ended his career by committing suicide, also saw the house wherein the late Hugh Miller, le celebrated geologist, resided, and that part of the lilding was pointed out to me where he, in an mad- jrtent moment, and in the feverish madness of an rerheated imagination, blew out his own brains, the laterial tenement of a superior soul, possessed of a >ost profound and exalted intellect. I also visited le Parliament Buildings ; though ancient, they con- a number of fine halls, some of which are ornament- with the busts and statues of great men. In a (>wer apartment is kept the celebrated " Advocates' ibrary." It was founded in 1680, and contains reral thousand volumes, besides manuscripts, coins, fd other curiosities, many of them of a very ancient ^te. The college is a modem edifice. It is divided WW BKET0HE3 OF A TOUR into lecture rooHis, library apartments, museum, &c. As a medical university and school of literature and! science, it is distinguished as one of the highest seats! of learning in Europe. Besides this I visited a num-f ber of other public edifices, such as the High School,; St. Giles' Church, Herriot's Hospital, the Royalj Infirmary, and the Royal Industrial Museum, &c| This latter building is a modern structure: the! foundation stone was laid by the late Prince Albertj during which occasion he contracted a cold, saic to have been the original cause of his untimely fatej This museum, though new, contains innumerable specimens of the three Kingdoms of Nature and also many curiosities of the Works of Art. Amon^ the thousands of objects therein were two that at-| tracted my curiosity the most, — the one was a coflfinec mummy supposed to be 3000 years old. The coffii was embellished with numerous hieroglyphics, repre-j senting a variety of maxims, &c. The other, was the skeleton of a whale, upwards of 100 feet in length] the distance between the outer extremities of the jaws being over 30 feet. It was suspended on highj betwixt the galleries, and presented an appearance that was truly marvellous and interesting. Another oj the wonders of Edinburgh is the castle. It is situatec on the sumnut of a rock several hundred feet in height] Its original existed before the year 452, at whicl time it was taken from the Picts by the Saxon inj vaders. Since that period it has been retaken number of times. It has also undergone many change? and improvements, and possesses a historical interesi FROM CANADA TO PAIUS. 57 lat few such places in Europe can boast of. It ras the temporary residence of Qaeen Mary and the »irth place of her son James the 6th. In 1707 it )ecame the repository of the Royal Regalia of Scotland. The Scottish Coronation crown Of many a sovereign head, Out-lived those ages of renown, And all its rojal dead. On the ramparts were several old cannon, among rhich, I noticed the celebrated, " Mons Meg," — ^bear- ig the date of 1486, — taken at the seige of Norham Jastle, in 1497. It is about 14 feet in length, and )f sufficient bore to allow a person to enter therein. i'rom the summit of the castle an extensive view can >e obtained of the city, and surrounding country, — md while the eye is roving over the variegated pros- )ect of both art and nature, the fancy is, perhaps, jailing up a thousand historical associations of the )ast, and the person awakens from his reverie to realize that he is standing over and in the midst of great city. CHAPTER IV. [aving visited several places in the neighbourhood ^f Edinburgh, I purposed making a tour to the llouthern District of Scotland — that part of country which my parents originally belonged. In accord- pee therewith I got in readiness and walked down to }Q railway station. I entered one of the ear-apart- 58 BKETOHES OF A TOUR ments and took a seat. An elderly gentleman follow- ed, accompanied by a young man, apparently hie son.! The former seated himself on the opposite bench, the other by the side of me ; others came in and filled] up the remaining place. At a given signal the trainj departed, and I soon found myself beyond the pre-j cincts of the city, traversing a fertile and finely! undulating country. Silently I sat by the side of the] little window, directing my attention to the variegated! landscapes, beautified by culture in every part, and! studded with stately mansions of the rural gentry— I peeping out from amid the grandeur of foliagedj avenues and groves ; while occasionally might bel seen some ancient looking village of stone buildings] covered with thatch or tiles. Nor was my eye blind] to the many groups of women working in the fields,; hoeing turnips, or taking up potatoes for market. I wasj really amused at the old-fashioned system of potatoel digging with the grape. The grape is similar to the! manure-fork, with flattened prongs. With this implej ment the diggers delve the rows, advancing by going backward, and at the same time pitching out anii separating the potatoes from the clay. The potatoe^ were being gathered into sacks and weighed for th(| market, upon a sort of portable balance, termed " backs and boards." The Scotch sack cantains ovei! four of oar bushels. It is like many other thing^ peculiar to the country — a burden of Scottish tyrannj — and a vestige of the " Strong Man's World." Hoi? much more convenient and easily to be handled ar^ our Canadian bags. If we do not posBess the physica PROM CANADA TO PARIS. 59 rength of our ancestors, we are assuredly superior ingenuity. When saving gone a considerable dis- ice I observed that the country became more rugged id of a more, barren appearance. Observing also it the railway had several times crossed a winding rulet, and wishing to ascertain its name, I took the >erty of asking the gentleman referred to, who sat )posite to me. He informed me that it was the Gala Water." On seeing that I was a stranger to [e place, and apparently desirous of gleaning in- lation, he extended a few remarks respecting the ream and the adjacent country, with familiar frank- ?s and courtesy. Finding him to be acquainted ^th the route and the country in general, I inquired he knew anything about the village of Bowden; — which he informed me that it was his birth-place, |id that he was then going thither to visit some of his lations. I may here remark that Bowden was also birth-place of my father; however, I literally ^ew nothing of the place or its inhabitants but what lad heard many years ago. " Is there any person or lily by the name of Spedon resides there," I in- rrogated. " Not any now," said he, " formerly there ^re several families of that name, some have emi- ited, others have become extinct." " Well," said " I suppose you were acquainted with them in gen- " 0, yes," said he, " I was acquainted with Jm all, but there was one I was more familiarly mooted with on account of his being a partner th me in the building business, in Edinburgh ; but and his family emigrated many years ago to 60 SKETCHES OP A TOUR America," Looking forcibly into the countenance o^ the gentleman, I said, " please oxcuse me, sir, foil asking if your name is Mr. Jamieson ?" " My namcj sir, is Peter Jamieson," said he, frankly. " Weill sir," said I, "I am happy to meet "with you Mrj Jamieson, and I feel happy to inform you that you( partner referred to was my father ^ Bewildered with such an unexpected discovery, \\\ stared upon me for an instant, but on recovering hij equanimity of feehngs, he stretched forth his hanJ and grasped mine with a friendly and familiar grip! and we shook hands so heartily as to startle ari astonish the others around us. We then entered intJ a lively conversation which was continued until \\ arrived at the station of Galashiels ; at which place parted Avith him and his son, promising assuredly tj pay them a visit if I returned to Edinburgh, whicj place he was still a resident of. The town of Galashiels is situated upon the Gala water, about a mile above its junction with the Twceii Comparatively it has a somewhat modern aspect, anj in general presents a lively and clean-hke appearance! Its inhabitants are apparently a sociable and indua trious class. The Gala affords them excellent facili ties for the manufacture of cloth, &c., which is carriej on very extensively. From Galashiels I proceeded by rail to Selkirk, distant only a few miles. Tlii town is situated upon an eminence overhanging tl River Ettrick. It is embodied with many characterii tics of antiquity, and owing to its location, and proj imity to a fine loch and beautiful plantation, it assumJ PROM CANADA TO PARIS. 61 somewhat romantic appearance. From time immc- lorial it has been noted for its great number of loemakers. St. Crispin appears to have dropped ps leathern girdle upon the spot, and consecrated it first to become subservient to the'/asf, which has ibued its inhabitants with a relish for soles. At the tttlc of Flodden they were all distinguished for their ilour, and though many of them were ignorant of the rc^-tics of war, and better acquainted with feet than ?e-ar7ns, they, however, threaded their way among ic ranks of their antagonists, and like true heroes rery sole of them stuck firmly to the last. At a lort distance from the town and a little above where le Yarrow enters the Ettrick is the place where the [attle of Philiphaugh was fought, and where the bloody [ontrose was defeated. A spot is still pointed out, rere one of the retreating troopers of the defeated irty was singularly destroyed. As he rode up to the Ivor bank and was about to cross, a woman earnestly itreated him to convey her on horseback to the other |de. Having placed her behind him he plunged his )rse into the water. At this instant she drew his dag- jr from its scabbard and pierced him to the heart, )d having pitched his body into the river, she gal- oped off with the horse as a trophy of her valour. Such istances as this were common, even among women, iring the bloody wars of Scotland. In this part of )untry the scenery is exceedingly picturesque, parti- ilarly along the vales of the Ettrick and Yarrow ; which ive been richly celebrated with song, and are still forthy of the poet's inspiration. Having perambulated m 8KET0HES OV A TOtTR for sometime in the neighbourhood of Selkirk I returne( to Boldside, and crossed to the opposite side of thij Tweed, about a mile above Abbotsford, the seat oj the celebrated Sir Walter Scott. Pursuing my coursj along the highway, through a spacious avenue of trees! with a back-ground of woody-hills, on the one side] while on the other coursed the silvery waters of the Tweed, the stately mansion of Abbotsford soon appear-] ed in view. At that moment I felt as if I were approximating some classic temple of the Muses, anc treading upon hallowed ground. Every object appear] ed to fling an enchantment around the spot, anc conjure up the varied associations connected with the great Magician himself. At length I entered the! gateway ard soon found myself in the very presencej of the distinguished edifice. It stands upon the side of an eminence and overlooks a delightful vale alon^ the Tweed. It is surrounded by a beautiful plantation,! and a fine garden richly decorated with flowers. The! building is spacious, but of a singular style and pro-| portions ; its various fantastic gables, irregular project ing windows, chimnies, balconies and turrets, conformj ing to no rules of architecture, yet producing pleasing effect. Many of the details and decorations havel been gathered from celebrated places throughout thel country, as for instance, there is a gateway froml Linlithgow palace ; a chimney piece from Melrosel Abbey ; carved oak from Holyrood, etc. Stones withl carved inscriptions and armorial bearings coUectedl from all parts of Scotland, have been placed at randoml around this distinguished mansion. I may here remarkl imOM. CANADA TO PARIS. lat my father was one of the masons employed at the )uilding of Abbotsford, and this fact of itself excited vithin my mind an affecting interest in addition to its lother associations. Many of the characteristics of Sir IWalter and Abbotsford have been narrated to me by Imy parents, and in this respect also the building and lits surroundings, appeared familiarly to me. Having surveyed the exterior and the grounds, I entered with several other visitors and were shown through the different apartments appropriated to those who from curiosity, or out of respect to the great author are in- duced to make a transient visit to the place. The Library is the largest of all the apartments ; its ceiling I is of richly carved oak. The books are placed in oak leases beautifully carved, and number about 20,000 volumes, many of which are rare and valuable. This room also contains a vast variety of curious and costly articles, paintings, etc., among which are busts of Sir Walter, Shakespeare, etc. Life-like portraits of Queens [Mary and Elizabeth, also that of Sir Walter's eldest [son, an officer in the British army, but who died one [his way home from Lidia ; a silver urn gift of Lord iByron ; also two elbow chairs beautifully carved, a [present from the Pope ; an Egyptian lamp 3000 year's Did ; also a variety of rich presents from the crowned meads of Europe. Adjoining the library is the Study, le room from which have issued those imperishable mtmgs that still continue to delight mankind through ie surpassing genius displayed in them, and which lave reared up for their illustrious author a name in the lis of literature, to perish only with the language <^.i G4 8KETCBES OF A TOUB in which they were produced. Tliis room contains th( writing table, arm-chair etc., as Sir Walter left themJ There were also pictures, shields, cabinets, claymoresj etc. The Hall and Armory contain a vast variety oj curious and ancient articles, relics, &c., among whicl are several suits of steel armour, and specimens ol old military weapons ; Rob Roy's gun ; sword of MontJ rose ; pistols of Bonaparte, found in his carriage aftej the battle of Waterloo ; sword of the notorious and bloody Claverhouse ; thumbscrews used by him U torture the Covenanters with ; Queen Mary's cross ; loci and key of the ancient prison of Selkirk ; keys of th| old Tolbooth of Edinburgh ; hunting flask of Jamej VI. ; iron mask worn by the martyr Wishart at thj stake ; ancient war-horns ; Roman spears and camj kettle, &c., &c. Around the walls are shields presehtinj armorial bearings of Sir Walter's ancestors, and thj various families with whom he claimed kindred f round the cornice is a double line of escutcheons whicl contain the heraldic distinctions of Border families cJ lebrated for their warlike achievements. But the moa interestingly affective of all, are the clothes worn bj Sir Walter previous to his decease. They are lockc within a glass case, and consist of a white hat, bin coat, striped vest and drab trousers, &c., to^cth with his walking stick and forest HoJ natural and life like the whole appeared a yet he solitary and death like they seemed, liiey ^^cori^ the mind back to the period when the mighty niinst occupied that very place, and poured forth those FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 6ft iita))lc productions, so universally esteemed. The >wel indeed had disappeared: the casket only re- lained! and like Elijah's mantle it appeared as if till retaining some of the ihspiration of their former )ssessor, sufficient, at least, to affect the heart with rmpathetic sorrow, and incite a tearful sigh from the )holder. Having spent a very agreeable time in and round Abbotsford I sauntered along the highway to felrose, enjoying the loveliness of the surrounding jenery. This antique little town is delightfully situ- ted upon the south side of the Tweed, and secluded long hills, the most remarkable of which are the (ildons. In the centre of the town stands the cross, )0 years old, twenty feet high, and having upon its )ex the carving of a unicorn supporting the arms of jotland. Several of the houses appear to be built and jcorated with stones taken from the ancient abbey, lich is undoubtedly the most attractive and interest- feature of the place. Melrose Abbey was founded king David I, in 1136, dedicated to the Virgin |ary and devoted to a body of Cistercian uionks. It I said to be the finest specimen of Gothic architecture [d sculpture in Scotland. In general aspect it ia Jgant, and in details superbly grand, even to a ;ety ; and from the beauty of its architecture, the inony of its parts, and the extent of its ruin?, it '^ be considered as one of the greatest objects of [erest to those who visit this portion of delightful interesting country. The surviving portion of the )bey is 2[ ^^ ft. by 137. The arching of the principal E m .1! m 66 StCEICHES Oi> A TOtTR remaining door-way is composed of various membei^ j of the most delicate work. Above the entrance a several niches for statutes, in some of which mutilat^ i figures are still to be seen. Over this door-way isl ^ magnificent oriel window, 24 ft. in height by 16 ft. I g width, and terminating in a pointed arch, divided l^] four bars, the tracery of which remains perfect, sMc^ rises in graceful interlacing curves to a wheel of sevB „, compartments. The mouldings of the arch consist|oi numerous members enriched with fiUetings of folia which rises from two carved busts, and termina«a( with a grotesque head immecjiately above the graceBp^: canopy of a niche which formerly contained a figwcr of our Saviour, and is surrounded by a number of otlJj\| admirably carved figures, &c. The other wind aldo comprise a variety of the finest workmans some of wliich are remarkable for the beauty of tl: proportions and their delicate tracery. Nature been accurately studied through all, and the flo and foliage, etc., are represented with the ut nicety and elegance. In fact the whole buildi which is composed of superior stone and excellent preservation, is so elaborately and delicately o: mented that at every step some new beauty arises, eventually the eye becomes bewildered amidst magnificence of architecture. Within tne building a number of chapels, appropriated to distinct Bonages and services ; and in some of which, the water basins, and kneeling stones, are still rcmai Beneath where the high altar stood, are deposited ^le^ remains of Alexander II, and there also the hea e n r ul e ica stj tl el( 8i PROM CANADA TO PARIS. 67 ous memberB king Robert Bruce. Many other illustrious person - entrance aB ages are also buried within the Abbey. The body of hicb mutilatBthe celebrated magician, Michael Scott, is said to be door-way isB deposited there also. In several of the chapels are ;ht by 16 ft. ■ stones with half obliterated inscriptions which designate ch, divided Bthat the bodies of human beings, who figured in past as perfect, as ages, lie interred beneath. A number of other sin b wheel of scvBgular inscriptions, mottoes, figures, &c., line some parts I arcb consistBof the walls. tings of folia« Leaving Melrose I proceeded to the Eilden Hills, and terminal adjacent thereto, and mounted the highest peak. Their ove the graceBpeculiarity of form is said by the believers of witch- atained a figwcraft to have been the work of the famous wizard of number of otBMelrose, — Michael Scott, who flourished in the 13th other windojcentury, and performed many supernatural prodigies n connection with his Satanic Majesty. On the sum- it of one of these three hills are the remains of a Oman camp, evironed by two fosses and breast works, rom this point I had an excellent view of the beauti- ul variegated scenery around, rendered exquisitely elightful by the graceful windings of the lovely Tweed, hose banks are decorated at every turn with a land- cape ever varying in picturesque beauty. Nor is e view only beautiful in itself, it is historically inter- sting. Over that surface of country are the sites of thousand battle-fields, and other remarkable scenes nd places, many of which are celebrated in Border ry. Situated as it is in proximity to England, its elds have been often crimsoned by the bloody strug- depo»ted|le3 of the Scots and English, and its inhabitants ne- ssarily exhibited in former times the martial charac- tlJ •y jt workmans beauty of Nature and the flo with the ut whole build' ,nd excellent delicately o leauty arises, ered amidst tne building to distinct which, the e still remai lare also the heat 68 SKETCHES OP A TOUR teristics of chivalry. But those times have long sincd disappeared, and the present generations are as mucl distinguished for their peaceful and industrious habit as their ancestors were for their warlike character ani achievements. This delightful region has indeed beer long the subject and the birth-place of song, and ther is scarcely a spot within its precincts but may be do signated as classic ground. In the words of a celebrate author, it is the Arcadia of Scotland and the land ol Learmont and Thomson, of Leydon and Scott. Havin plucked up a few plants of the blooming heather, whicli grows in abundance upon those hills, I descended b the opposite side, and soon entered the ancient villag of Bowden situated at the Southern base of the Eil| dons. This village is the birth-place of my father an others of my ancestors, and on that account it secmo to possess a peculiar interest and attraction. My grca great-grand-father belonged originally to the " Carsi of-Gowrie " in Perthshire ; but during the Rebellioj of Prince Charles Stuart, many of those who were u favourable to it, found it necessary to leave their horn and seek safety in other parts. One of that party w Robert Spaulding my ancestor, who, witli his famil removed to Bowden in Roxburghshire. The bro accent of the Southerners soon converted the na into Spadden, and eventually it became moderniz into that of Spieden, Spedon, &c. Not one bean the name is now a resident of Bowden, the name only to be found on some of the tombstones in the burying-ground of that village. However, I was fj tunate in finding out two or three of my relatives, FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 69 sidents of Bowden ; and during my short stay in the )lace, spent my time very pleasantly with them. The )urial place belonging to the Duke of Roxburghe and )ther noted families, is within and under the old Church lof Bowden. Through the grating of the cellar-window ll got a glimpse of the vault, in which rows of coffins [lay piled above each other, which reminded me of those [of Alio way Kirk, as described by Burns, " Coffins stood round like open presses," &c. [Bowden, though once a Roman villa and a place of 5ome importance, possesses few attractions at present. [t is however beautifully situated on rising ground, imd commands a view of the Cheviot Hills, a.nd other nlaccs endowed with beauty and historical interest. spent a Sabbath in this village, and was well sa- tisfied with the religious observance of the people. During my few Sabbaths in Scotland, I was somewhat mfortunate in not hearing any of the great preachers )f the day. However, I was agreeably impressed |ivith the apparent sanctity of the people in general, lud the respect shown by them towards the ** Lord's )ay." The Sabbath should be considered and ob- served by all Christians as the Holy Day of the ^'uEATOR, and not a hoUday for the creature — Alas ! loo frequently is the reverse among Christians of the )resent age. From Bowden, I proceeded to Dry- )urgh Abbey, distant three miles. This monastery is situated upon a lovely and secluded spot*on the north >ank of the Tweed, around which the river winds >cautifull^ with majestic sweep. The ruins are em- ^ i ) • 70 SKETCHES OF A TOUR bosomed by a fine plantation, among which is a yew tree 700 years old — the lonely survivor of an ancient grove planted by the Monks of Dryburgh. This Abbey was built by Hugh DeMoreville, during the reign of David I. It has frequently suffered from the devastating hand of war, and all that now remains of it are the western gable of the nave, the ends of the transept, part of the choir, and parts of the domestic buildings, among which are the dungeons appropriated as a prison for refractory monks, heretics, &c. St. Mary's aisle is the finest part of the ruins. Its arched roof springs from a variety of clustered columns of beautiful and elaborate workmanship. The area of this aisle is occupied as the burial place of three celebrated families — the Haigs, Erskines, and Haliburtons ; from the latter. Sir Walter Scott is descended ; and his remains, also those of his wife, son, and son-in-law — Lockhart — arc deposited therein. They are encased in beautiful stone coffins, enclosed by a fine iron rail- ing. What remains of the Abbey is now covered with wild ivy and other creeping plants, and even amidst the dilapidated ruins the vestiges of its former greatness are still visible. At a short distance from the valley is a small temple dedicated to the Muses, which is surmounted by a bust of Thomson, author of " The Seasons y Further up the bank is a colos- sal statue of the Scottish patriot, '' Sir William Wallace." The next place I visited was the village of Earlston, in Berwickshire, eight miles from Bow- den. This ancient place is situated near the banks of the Leader — a stream that empties itself into the FROM CANADA TO PAAIS. 71 weed, two miles below Melrose. Towering above le village on the south side are the White and Black [ills. On the summit of the latter are the remains a vitrified Roman fort. The former is characterized the Cowden-knows, so richly celebrated, in song, )r the " honnie hroonfC* which formerly grew thereon, plant peculiar to the country, and exceedingly beau- |ful when in blossom. Adjacent to this hill is the lansion of Cowden-knows, formerly a seat of the an- ient family of Home ; this house has a somewhat itique appearance. In connexion with it and at the )ttom of an old tower is a dungeon, in which one of le feudal barons used to confine and torture his pri- )ners, and afterwards hang them upon a tree conve- ient thereto. In the summer of 1866, this tree was lasted by lightning ; it has a hard, knotty appear- lee, an emblematical /«c %imile of that villainous and ^urderous expression characteristic of its ancient pos- ^ssor. Earlston consists chiefly in one street nearly mile in length, having a triangular market-place and a somewhat ancient appearance. It was there, itil lately, that the celebrated ginghams were manu- Ictured by the Misses Whales., Manufacturing of |oth, &c., is however extensively carried on by Chas. Wilson, Esq., a gentleman who has done much towards ^e improvement of the place. But the most attrac- re and interesting feature in connexion with Earls- ^n is the ruins of Learmont's Tower, formerly the jsidence of Thomas Learmont, better known by the le of " The Rhymer^* who flourished in the 13th mtury,--cotemporary with Sir Wm. Wallace, of whom I il tilii ill i( 72 SKETCHES OP A TOUR he was a congenial companion. He was married to al daughter of the Knight of Thirlstane, and brother-in-BDer law to Sir Richard Maitland and the Earl of Mar.Bbee He was a man of superior talents, and the Father ofBferc Seottish Poetry ; but his works, with the exceptionj of " Sir Tristiem " and " Prophetic lihymes^^ are nol longer extant. He is also distinguished as a prophet or " Mountain Seer," and many of his rhymes and prophecies have been handed down to posterity, and become as " household words " among the people of| Scotland. A celebrated author in speaking of him, says : " EarUton rests its claim to notice upon the\ circumstance of its having been the birth-place and residence of Thomas Learmont, one of the most re\ markable of the Scottish zoorthies, a man d/istinguishcc by the splendour of his character and talents, anc whose name, after a lapse of nearly six centuries, cari ries with it at this day as much of exciting intere^ as it did at the time when he ivas a living reality, anc impressed the signet of his wonderful mind upon the living age.^^ The same writer also says of him ; " Earhton teas the Delphi of Thomas Learmont, com\ monJy called the Bhymer, zvhose romantic histori\ might be the theme of a volume, and tvhose oracular sayings are as yet fondly cherished by the people oj Scotland, as ever the Rhymes of Ennius were bj those of liome.^^ Scotland still feels proud to boast of such a maiij and as a single mdividual I feel happy in the realitj of knowing that lam one of the last of his lineal dc)5\ cendants. FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 73 From history and tradition I have collected a num )er of his wonderful prophecies, many of which have [been truly verified. The following prediction in re- [ference to his own descendants has also come to pass : " Altho' the Learmonts o' Ercildoune Wad rise to mak a noted toun Ere eighteen times the course bad run That father would gie his land to son That no a single inch o' earth Wad fa' to a Learmont's son by birth." Not a Learmont now claims an inch of ground in Earlston, — none but those whose ]5irth-right claims an undisputed inheritance m the " auld kirk-yardy My mother was the last Learmont horn m Uarhton, and her father was the last of that race, who possessed property in the village. A brother older than her died when a child ; her parents also died when she was young, and durmg a portion of her after life she re- sided with an uncle — the father of the late Alex. Patcrson, the celebrated teacher of Lauder Parish School, in which place he taught during an uninter- rupted course of 50 years. t Adjacent to Earlston and convenient to the Leader stands the ruins of tho " Rhymers ToiverJ'^ All that remains of it now is a part of two walls to the height of about 30 feet. It is said to have been a splendid mansion, having an arched roof, and during the palmy days of the Rhymer, many of the nobiUty and knights of chivalry resorted thither, among whom was Sir Wm. Wallace, a friend and companion of Thomas Lcaimont. Many of the stones that once composed 74 SKETCHES OF A TOUR it now figure m other adjacent buildings. To prevent a further intrusion upon the classic edifice, Mr. Charles Wilson of Earlston, himself a descendant of the Rhymer, has purchased the estate, and plastered the walls of the old " Tower," so as to prevent further decay. It is fortunate, however, that a por- tion of it still remains as a memorial of the Rhymer. The following prediction of his, in reference to it, has also been fully verified : " That thorn and nettle would grow aroun* The crumblM Tower o' Ercildoune j An^ rabbit and hare whan a' was gane Wad kittle their young on its auld-heartUs stane." He also predicted the Union of Scotland and England. One day when the elder Bruce was visiting the Rhymer, with his son Robert, then a little boy, after- wards the great Patriot and Restorer of Scotland's rights, Learmont, possessed as it were with immediate inspiration, looked upon the countenance of the boy, placed his hand upon his head, and gave expression to the following : " Thro^ thee shall Scotland yet hefamed^ An^ by thine arm her rights reclaimhi. By thee the Lion's paw shall bleed, An' red shall rin the Burn O Breid ♦ All! tyrants fall aneath thy frown Ere Scotland wears the English Crown." * Bannockburn, FROSI CANADA TO PARIS. 75 In reference to the downfall of England's glory he \so predicted as follows : — England shall rise with peacock pride an^ hueSf To wealthy to dignity an high renown; But feather after feather she will lose Until she lose at length her " triple croivn." Lgain he says :— ** Aneath the English throne^ a homesVs nest will grow That will thro^ foreign power^ become her deadly foe ^ Then Fingan's chiefs will rise, to crop the Liangs mane And England's tyrant power ^ will then 'begin to wane." Several years ago the following very singular pre- [iction of the Rhymer was sent to me. Prophetically contains some of the characteristics of the present " Ere nineteen hundred years have ran Since God assumed the form of man Old things will pass away from view, And earth itself appear as new : The yokit cloud to snortin steed Shall o\r the earth the battle lead : The sun will turn mechanical To paint the glass and print the wall : Seas wilt be girt as with a tether^ Avl lands with metal, bridged thegither : Above, an' under earth, mankind Will fly on wings qf smoke an' wind: The world will change, but still go roun' And thus saith Thomas qf Ercildoune," Learmont's prophecies were chiefly written by him- self in Monkish Latin ; and afterwards received their translation into English or the Scottish dialect by 76 fcJKETCUES OF A TOUll others. Some expressions may bo construed ; bu| on the whole, they bear the marks of being genuine and have given ample testimony to succeeding gen] orations that their great author was really endowcc with the spirit of inspiration. Near to the Rhymer Tower, and sheltered by a clump of trees, is the tomb of a once very powerful and eccentric persoi by the name of Blaikie — a carpenter by trade. A large! stone placed upon pedestals covers his grave. Aroundl its sides the implements of his trade are sculptured! in strong relief, but the inscription has become ob- literated. This stone was prepared by himself many I years previous to his death ; and he used generally tol keep a ooffin in readiness, not scrupling however to| sell it if required, and immediately replacing it. But uotwithslauding all his care Providing iii the Past, Without that needftil article Poor Blaikie died at last. w A large stone, now lying at the side of the Rhymer's Tower, is said to be the one ho used at the end of his long saw instead of another person to assist him. It is over 200 lbs. weight, which shows what prodigious strength he must have been possessed of. I also visited the Kirk and burial-ground of Earlston. One of the corner stones of the Church bears the following | lines : Auld Rhymer's race liies ia this place, PROM CANADA TO PARIS. 77 istrucd ; bul eing genuinol cceding gcij ally endowcc the Rhymer t'ces, is th( ntric persoi ado. A large! ^^e. Aroundl ) sculptured] become ob- imself manyi generally to[ howc in;? it. e Rhymer's I e end of his t him. It is rt formerly occupied a similar position in the ^' Auld irk," which was taken down during the last century, ,nd the present one erected in its stead. This stone limply designates the burial place of the Learmonts ; ,nd many of my ancestors and kindred relatives lie interred there. The Rhymer, however, was not favoured ivith a burial therein. Superstitious tradition informs s that he was conveyed to Elfland by the Queen of ;he Fairies, and like Elijah the prophet, never tasted lof death, perchance — such is the manner of disposin- of those gifted with the spirit of Prophecy. But I have [just reasons for believing that his remains lie interred in Inverness-shire, where he died while on a tour through the North of Scotland. lie appeared to be as well known, and as highly celebrated in the Highlands as in his own neighborhood. I have met with many old Highlanders in Canada who could tell any number of stories about him, and had treasured up many of his rhymes and prophecies. I may here state that the nioito attached to the " LearmonVs coat-of-arms*'^ is " Be-Ready-and-Sure." In company with Mr. Charles Wilson I paid a visit to the Earlston antiquary, Mr. Thomas Gray. He is apparently a man of superior abilities and education, with a very eccentric disposition to treasure up relics of Scottish Antiquity. His rooms contain a variety of rare and curious articles, scarcely inferior to that of Abbotsford. Among them I noticed an almanac 800 years old, written on parchment. Several documents with the Rhymer's name attached as a signature, Also a sword which belonged to him, A crystal wino- m. I^^^H li wKIl 1 ilii 101 HK^' H iHi 1 1 ! ;■ ■■'^JIl'll A:M 1 n aM^K ■ffl iIIhH^ss ■H 78 Bi:»TC;H^S OP A TOUR cup of the celebrated Ralph Erskine. A China cu] that formerly belonged to Queen Mary. These ar only specimens of the thousands of articles he h collected from every part of Scotland. I was indee(| delighted with the sight, and spent a few hours vci pleasantly with the antiquary himself. With feelin^ of a peculiar interest, I bade adieu to Earlston, and re] turned to the Tweed, thence proceeded on my waj towards Kelso, at which place Queen Victoria wai expected to visit on the following Wednesday. CHAPTER V. Proceeding along the valley of the Tweed towards Kelso, scenes of a picturesque and beautifully variegal ted character panoramically appeared, consisting of^ hill and dale interspersed with trees, and intersectedl with streams, with here and there a stately mansionl peeping out from amidst the bosom of luxuriant foliage ;| or, perhaps, the ruins of some ancient edifice that once| figured in the feudal times. In the distance the fa- mous Cheviots reared their magnificient summits, in-l tervened by other ranges of hills interlacing each] other in terraced grandeur, and forming the back- ground of a delightful country. Sheep were quietly! browzing upon the hills, and on either side of the classic Tweed, herds of cattle were gracing peacefully upon the green herbage, undisturbed by the trooper's horn and unconscious of those times when steel-clad foragers might have driven them off to feast some feudal baron I*ROM CANADA tO PAftTS. 79 or the warriors of the English camp. Peaceful are now the verdant banks of the Tweed and its delightful tri- butaries ; and the surrounding landscape bears evi- dences of a superior and industrious people. Along the valleys of those streams, that had often vibrated to the tread of armed warriors and the steeds of war, the iron horse now courses onward with electric speed, thundering amidst those hills that have a thousand times echoed to the troopers' horn, and the din of contending armies. On the summit of Peniel hill, south of the Tweed, stands a high monument erected in com- memoration of Waterloo. Adjacent thereto was fought the famous battle of Penielheugh, between the Earl of Angus and Lord Avers, in which the English suflfered severely — a compensation for the depredations they had committed along the Scottish Border. On the opposite side of the Tweed, the ruins of Lindean Tower, and also those of other venerable edifices are to be seen. Further on, the Tower of Smailholm stands prominently in view. It was formerly enclosed with walls, and clusters of wild rocks, scattered around, even render to it a somewhat stem and impregnable appear- ance. This Tower furnished the subject for Scott's ballad, entitled the " Eve of St. John." Scott spent a portion of his boyhood in this neighbourhood, and he has admirably described many of the scenes and asso- ciations connected therewith. On an eminence in the distance may be seen another castle, formerly the seat of the ancient and distinguished family of Humes. In proximity to Kelso are the remains of Roxburgh castle, erected by the Saxons, but eventually it became a royal 80 SKETCHES OP A TOUIl scat. Many Important events have tran^jnird Avitliml its walls and around it, the most memorable of wliiclij was the death of James II, in 1400, by the bursting! of a cannon, while he laid scige to the place. Owin^ to its position and strength, this castle was the pivot on which turned many of the warlike expeditions of| the Borders. For centuries it continued to be the ob- ject of the hottest contention between the Scots anjl English, until it became utterly demolished, and now scarcely a vestige remains of that distinguished edifice, within whose walls monarchs have held their courts. surrounded by champions of Scottish chivalry ; instead of the noisy and voluptuous mirth of feasting and revel- ry, and the direful clangor of arms, that had often alter- nately resounded, are heard now the gentle bleatin<^| of the lamb, and the swelling note of the winged chor- ister, mingling, perchance, with the rustle of foliage or| the rippled murmurs of the wave, while the peaceful labours of husbandry have been substituted for the military achievements of a warlike people. Adjacent to this castle, and at the outskirts of Kelso, stands the magnificent Caatle of Flews, residence of the Duke of Koxburghe. It is situated on a lovely eminence, and in the midst of a beautiful amphitheatre of ancient groves. From the green terraces in front of the castle expands tl\e verdant lawn, dotted with ornamental trees, and laved at its southern extremity by the waters of the Tweed. Instead of the gloomy frowning aspect so commonly observed in the residences of hereditary nobles, Fleur Castle, seen from a distance, has the appearance of a marble palace, recently conjured up PEOM CANADA TO PARIS. 81 )y the wand of somo great magician. Such was the lansion which Queen Victoria was expected to visit that week while on her tour to Balmoral, by way of the Scottish Border. Kelso occupies a beautiful situation, surrounded by delightful amphitheatre of wood-clad hills, and pre- sents a clean, substantial, city-like appearance. But the most * attractive object connected with the town is the venerable Abbey, erected in the 12th century, )y David I; and though much dilapidated, ; appears to lave been a fine specimen of the Saxon style of archi- Itecture. Of the general effect of the whole ruin, either jconsidered as an architectural pile, or reviewed as an )bject in the landscape, no description can convey an idequate effect. It produces upon the spectator an lidea of massive grandeur and simplicity, and possesses lin common with all objects that are at once vast, sim- Iple and symmetrical, the charm of eliciting admiration the ofbener and longer it is contemplated. In conse- quence of its proximity to tho English Border, Kelso suffered severely during the wars between the two coun- tries, and the Abbey is n^cniloned in connection with the convulsions in which botL were involved. Tho sacred edifice was twice burnt and otherwise suffered much, until in 1545 it was reduced to its present ruinous condition by the English under the Earl of Hertford. But the most attractive and generally interesting fea- ture in connection with Kelso during my stay ♦^here, was the presence of Queen Victoria, on a visit to . leurs' I Castle. The morning of the 21st of August, 1867, i; r 82 SKElTHEf^ OK A TOUR dawned upon the Scottish Border, and with it comJ mencod the din and bustle preparatory to her arrivalj The town was tastefully decorated with arches, and variety of flags, embossed mottoes, devices, &c. At length crowds of people began to stream in, dressedl in their holiday attire, with smiling fiices, expressivel of joyous hearts ; while vehicles of all sorts,. sizes, audi varieties were mingling with the multitudes of footl passengers — all of which added an exciting interestj to the anticipation of the royal visit. The sky that had assumed a gloomy aspect for several days exhi-] bitod the signs of an immediate rain ; but fortunately for the immense numbers of people who had gathereil in from the surrounding country, the clouds began tc disperse, and before 11 a.m., the day assumed a more favourable appearance. No less than 50,000 persons were assembled there, filling up every avenue of tlm town and lining both sides of the road leading from the station ; all eager to get a sight of the Queen.! Several companies of volunteers and others, accomj panicd by their respective bands, occupied the mos prominent places, all ready to give a hearty and corj dial welcome to her Majesty, the first of the crowncc heads of Britain, since Queen Mary, who visited thel Scottish border. At the railway station were a nuinj bor of tlie nobility, ajipoiiited to receive Iler Majestjj among whom were the Duke and Duchess of Roxj burgh and the Duke of Buccleugh. Shortly after 111 o'clock, a cannon fired from Roxburgh castle, anj nounccd the approach of the royal train, which, aft«'r| a few minutes, arrived at the station, llcr Majestj KUU3I r'ANAr)A TO PARIS. 83 md suite alighted, and after a few preliminaries of »ti(|uette Avcre gone through with, the party entered their respective carriages and were driven up through the town, amid the deafening shouts of the populous issemblage, and the waving of handkerchiefs, &c. [jl hud stationed myself at the corner of the station ipinlon, and therefore had an excellent view of the [l^ueen. She was j)lainly attired in black silk, trim- !nod with crape. Her countenance, though somewhat coarse, had a smiling and amiable expression, without 'itlier affectation or conceited dignity. Although as- fc^uming the title of an authoress, her features were not 'xpressive of intellectual capacity ; but, as a whole, FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 95 came gradually developed, until at length he rose above his fellows, and obtained that position of intel- lectual accomplishment, which has distinguished him as one of the greatest men of the 19th century. From Newcastle I proceeded on my way towards the city of London, passing through and % the vicinity of a num- ber of interesting places, a few of which I will briefly notice. First in importance is the city of Durham. It comprises a number of ancient and interesting build- ings, among which is the Cathedral founded in 1093. It is 460 feet in length, and its greatest height 214* It contains the tomb of the venerable Bede, and also that of St. Cuthbert. Further on, is the city of York, noted as being at one time the residence of several of the Roman Emperors. It was enclosed by walls by King Edward I, built on the foundations of the Roman fortifications. It is the capital of Yorkshire ; and con- tains many ancient buildings, among which is the cathe- dral, 524 feet long by 222, having a tower 234 feet high. Bishopthorpe, three miles from the city, is the birth-place of Guy Fawkes, who was chief agent of the " GunpoTrder Plot." Many are the interesting objects in and around York, but time would not permit an examination. Having spent a night and part of a day in the city, I proceeded on my route. The country through which I passed was, indeed, truly beautiful, in many places picturesquely grand, and the people in general appeared to be industrious and progressive. The land was generally of an undulating character, but without that sternness of romantic grandeur characte- ristic of Scotland. Like its inhabitants it had t^ milder 96 SKETCHES OF A TOUR ''ii and softer aspect, and continued the more so, tliel further I journeyed southward. The disposition and appearance of a people are, to a great extent, charac- terized by the climate and country of which they are natives. Go to the rugged north of Scotland, where the craggy hills rear their dauntless summits amidst | the fury of contending elements, where the mountain- torrents dash wildly in foaming grandeur over the shaggy cliflfe, and where nature in every form rises in the majesty of magnificence, sternly beautiful, yet free and romantic, and possessed of a nobleness though rude, yet genuine, as if fresh from the hands of the divine Creator. Go there, I say, and you will find its inha- bitants in both interior and exterior aspect, bearing a similarity of characteristics. Then go southward, and as the climate and the landscape become modified, so will the people also vary. Physical nature has, indeed, a great influence in moulding our characters, as well as our exterior aspect. The spirit of man is a suscep- tible material, and like the galvanized plate of the solar-artist, it generally receives the image of the ob- jects that are presented before it. Proceeding on through Lincolnshire I visited Wolsthorpe, birth-place of Sir Isaac Newton, and saw his study-room, his two sun-dials, and the old arm-chair that was made out of | the apple-tree that led to his gravitation theory, be- sides a number of other curiosities, &c. Further on, is the town of Huntingdon, including Godmanchester, where Oliver Cromwell was bom, and adjacent thereto is Hinchinbrooke House, formerly the residence of his Jamil^. 5^ere^ also', Cowper the poet resided, during PROM CANADA TO PARIS. 97 m rises in which time he became acquainted with the Unwin family. Another interesting place on the route is Welwyn, noted as the place where Dr. Young was rector for many years ; and where he wrote his " Night Thoughts." In the church in which he had so long officiated, his remains are interred. Passing through, and calling at a number of other interesting places, I at length approximated the suburbs of the great capi- tal, and ere long arrived at the station of King's Cross, and found that I had entered the city of London, the great metropolis of England. CHAPTER VI. Having arrived at the station I mounted an ommibus, and after a lengthy ride through some of the densely packed streets, landed at the Old London Bridge, and at a short distance therefrom, arrived at the hotel to which I had been directed, and there found myself in comfor- table lodgings. On the following morning, at 5 a.m. I started out to get a peep at the great city ere the din and bustle of the day would be aroased ; but oven at that early hour hundreds of people were astir, and the sound of vehicles were everywhere heard. Gra- dually the noise and activity of the mommg increased, and ere long, the thoroughfares of London were bust- ling into busied life. Having strolled around for two hours I started on my return course, and on my way passed throu^ the Ssb »uu:ket of Billingagate, noted a 98 SKETCHES OF A TOUR Itill as a nursery of the devil's lingo. Amazed and almost bewildered, I elbowed myself with difficulty through the intricate masses of the jostling crowds, almost suffocated by the odours of fish and the foul puffs ofl loquacious fishmongers, etc. A strange variety ofl men, women and boys ivere hustling around with fish- 1 baskets, or lugging homeward upon their heads their piscatorial purchases. The immense loads that an thus carried, and the skill displayed in balancing them, are really wonderful. Such a practise is common with! the Cockneys, for everywhere, and at all times, maj be seen persons of both sexes with burdens upon their heads, threading their way along with apparent ease. Vehicles laden with fish and other commodities, in dense numbers, were forcing their way along the adja- cent streets, while occasionally their progress was retarded by collision. Beer-shops and coffee-houses! were numerous everywhere ; there the hungry werel voraciously gulping down mutton chops, coffee, etc., and the thirsty, swallowing greedily immense quantities! of their favourite hales. Around the comers of thel doors and streets, groups of loungers and lookers-ODJ were to be seen, some with pale, emaciated faces, iol tattered garbs, looking the ghastly picture of starvatioD,[ and as it were,regaling their keen appetities with al smell of the delicious fumes of the culinary art ; whilst! others with bloated aspect, appeared to be waitingl upon chances, and ready to welcome a mug of porte( as a morning visitor to their thirsty and denude(i| stomachs. After breakfast I resumed my rambles through I FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 99 city, and during my stay of one week I had the plea- sure of seeing a considerable portion of London and many of its distinguished characteristics. London is one of the oldest cities in the British Isles ; it is sup- posed to have received its nucleus from the ancient Britons, as its name originated with them, " JM^ signifying^a river, and ** Dm" a harbour for vessels, but it was subsequently converted into that of London During the Roman age, 1500 years ago, it became a strongly fortified place, enclosed with walls, and under- went many improvements ; but under the Norman and Anglo-Saxon eras, it gradually expanded beyond its former limits, and became of considerable im- portance as a seaport. Notwithstanding the rava- ges of fire and sword, it has gone on steadily increasing in size, population, commerce, manufacture and wealth, until it has become, eventually, one of the foremost cities in the world. It is situated on comparatively level ground, on the bank of the river Thames, and 60 miles from the sea. It now covers an area of 150 square miles, and contains 3,000,000 of inhabitants, a number exceeding the aggregate po- pulation of the Provinces of Quebec and Ontario. It is indeed a city of cities, a mammoth hive of concen- trated existence, and may be classed as one of the wonders of the world. Go in whatever direction you choose, and rows of massive and dingy buildings greet the eye in apparently endless succession. Take a pro- spective view from some central stand-point and the vision is almost paralyzed with the sight ; everywhere around, even into the immensity of distance, is to be 100 SKETCHES OP A TOUR Been the dense and complicated labyrinth of buildings, interspersed with hundreds of lofky spires, turrets, and massive piles, among which, in the hoary dinginess of years, the ancient edifice of St. Pauls, like some huge pyramid, rears its lofty and venerable head. Walk along the walled avenues of the city, and you will see thousands of people hurrying to and fro in bustling ac- tivity, together with hundreds of vehicles laden with freight or human beings. Lines of railway intersect portions of the city, at a height exceeding that of many of the houses. In every direction under ground the steam-horse is whirling along his subterrannean course with fearful rapidity, carrying hundreds of passengers from one point to another. Astounding reality ! even the great city of Babylon, with all its gorgeous ap- pendages, would have paled in insignificance beneath the wonders of this great Metropolis. In the regular- ity of outline, architectural excellence, and exterior beauty, London, in general, is comparatively deficient. The streets are generally narrow, and exceedingly ir- * regular ; the buildings, like those of ancient Babylon, are chiefly composed of brick, many present an an- tique appearance, and look dim with the dust of ages. London, externally, independent of its attractive and interesting character, has but a dingy, insignificant as- pect, and is a most uncomfortable place for a stranger to reside in after the novelty of his fancy has been gratified by the noted characteristics of the place. It is indeed a startling wonder how 3,000,000 of people, concentrated in one city, can be supplied with food and employment Jt is said that upwards of 80,000 r:n"..'« PROM CANADA TO PARIS. 101 have no lawful or visible means of support ; be tbis as it may, the arrangements for the supply of food for the regular inhabitants and the numerous visitors, are, however, of a most extensive character. There are upwards of 50 markets, of various kinds ; the new cattle market occupies*15 acres of land ; the buildings connected therewith cost 12,000,000; upwards of 300,000 horned cattle, and 1,600,000 sheep, are sold annually there. Independent of the live stock, it is said that 10,000,000 lbs. of country killed meat are sold annually in London. The following calculation will give my readers some idea of the supply per year : —72 miles homed cattle, 10 abreast = 120 miles of sheep, do. = 7 miles of calves, do. = 9 miles of hogs, do. = 20 miles of hares and rabbits, 100 abreast = 50 acres densely covered with poultry. A pyramid of bread 600 ft. square and 120 ft. in height ; 400,000 tons of vegetables ; 1,000 columns of hogsheads of beer, each 1 mile in height. Independent of all these, is the enormous supply of other liquors, fruit, and various other kinds of eatables, &c. What a capacious maw ' must the city of Cockneyism have ; wonderful indeed, almost incredible, yet true ; the very idea is sufficient of itself to startle the wildest fancy of the glutton, and strike a death blow to the stomach of the hunger- stricken vagrant. Pyramids of hogsheads and liquor casks sufficient to wall the city round, and containing ingredients destructive to human life, injurious to the comfort of human nature, and pregnant with myriads of various crimes. Think of this, ye votaries of temperance, ponder over this startling reality, and 102 SKETCHES OF A TOUB with the noble spirit of humanity, continue to fight boldly in the subjugation of those " evil spirits,*^ the greatest enemy of mankind. There are numerous breweries and distilleries in London ; some of them have fermenting vessels capable of holding 1500 bar- rels each ; beer-tanks of sufficient capacity to float a small steamer in ; vats containing 100,000 gallons each and 60,000 casks. One of these establishments alone gives employment to 200 horses in conveying the liquor to the taverns of the city, which comprise no less than 8,000, of such places. There are also about 1600 coffee-houses, &c., in which a good meal can be cheaply obtained at any time during the day. These are serviceable institutions to the workmg class, and even the stranger who may visit the metropolis. London is chiefly supplied with water from the Thames, which undergoes a very extensive filtration, the daily quantity distributed averages 50,000,000 gallons. The coal used is principally from New- castle, the annual consumption exceeds 5,000,000 tons. London is hghted with gas manufactured by 30 extensive gas-works, and there are no k . than 2,000 miles of gas-pipes under the city. The main drainage since 1859 has cost over $15,000,000. The erection of local telegraphs to convey messages from one part of the city to another, and of pillar posts for letters, &c., are among some of the recent novelties. The Rre-Brigade is very efficient, nevertheless the fires average 1,000 annually. The Police Force, are also extensive ; they are a fine body of men, and are in general, civil and obliging, especially to strangers yrho FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 103 request information. The old stage-coaches and hackneys are now supplanted by cabs and omnibuses, the former number over 6,000 ; the latter, 1,500. The railways diverging from the city are numerous, and the station-houses are generally of a capacious and magnificent order. Small steamers are constantly plying between different points along the Thames, and are in general crowded with passengers. The river, though considered large and majestic in England, would seem comparatively insignificant to the great St. Lawrence of Canada. Its breadth averages fi*om an eighth to a third of a mile, at London. It rises in the interior ♦f the country and has a course of nea 'y 200 miles; the balt-v r'r effects it to about 30 miles from its outlet, b '^ the tides extend upwards of 70. It is of a somewhat placid nature, and is capable of allow ing vessels of great magnitude to reach London. Unfortunately the beauty of this river is much hidden from the view by the rows of extensive warehouses that line its banks, even to the water's edge. The docks are on a very extensive scale ; the site of one of them required the removal of 1200 houses and 18,000 inhabitants. Some of the storehouses are extraordinary buildings; the tobacco warehouse, for instance, covers an area of 5 acres, and has accom- modation for 24,000 hogsheads. A tunnel constructed by Brunei, for carriage communication, underlies the river, but it has never been fully completed, and only rendered fit for the use of foot passengers. The chief communication is principally carried on by means of numerous bridges ; of which the " London Bridge" f ft .'"'>7l t Hf i^pwiPP 104 SttETCfiES OF A TOttR has the greatest amount of traffic. It is really won- derful indeed, to witness the immense crowds of foot passengers and carriages tb:it are constantly passing over it, forming a continued throng from early morn- ing until the late hours of night, and frequently em- bracing within its limits at the one time, no less than 2000 foot passengers, and 100 carriages containing an additional thousand, — all hurrying to and fro in one densely complicated mass. With peculiar feelings I have occasionally gazed upon the ever-moving and varied crowd ; the scene was truly of a grand and imposing character, affording an excellent opportunity to the physiognomist to mark the varied characteristics of the human face ; but who knows the workings of each soul ? it may throw its flashed of joy > or the shadows of grief upon the exterior part, while the causes are deeply seated underneath, and remain unknown to the spectator. Independent of the various loungers and vagrants to be seen, the citizens in general assume an active and business-like aspect, and are generally well dressed and of respectable appearance. Although distinguished for its enormous wealth and aristocracy, the city is also characterized by its immense poverty, wretchedness and profligacy. The haunts of vice are numerous, its temptations are ensnaring, and of one species alone of fallen humanity, it is said that London contains no les3 a number than 100,000 prostitutes and keep-misses. There are numerous places for public amusement, from the theatre down to the tavern music-hall, where entertainments are ^ven by negro melodists, &c. It is estimated PftOlt CANADA TO PARIS. 105 that 5000 persona are employed in the theatres alone, and about $1,800,000 are spent annually by the public at these places. The freehold of some of the boxes in Her Majesty's Theatre — lately destroyed by fire — ^has been sold for $40,000 each. The General Post Office is an extensive edifice ; the entrance hall is 80 feet long, by 60 and 53 high. The establishment employs over 20,000 persons throughout the United Kmgdom, and has the management of $18,000,000 of annual revenue. It embraces 12,000 post offices, and 3000 letter pillars. 75,000,000 newspapers, 12,000,- 000 book-packets, and money orders to the value of $70,000,000 are delivered annually; besides, 600,- 000,000 letters ; one-fourth of which are in London alone. The city is largely supplied with scholastic and charitable institutions. It contains no less than 200 hospitals, asylums, &c., besides 400 religious and bene- volent institutions ; and upwards of 1000 churches — one-half of which belong to the Episcopalian. London is also well supplied with museums and scientific estab- lishments. The British Museum contains a vast col- lection of natural and artificial curiosities that would take many days to examine ; the library contains 800,- 000 volumes ; the reading-room is of circular form, 140' feet in diameter, with a dome roof 106 feet high, supported without pillars, and cost, in all, $700,000. The National Gallery — another institution — is the chief depository of the pictures belonging to the nation, and contains some of the finest works of the Italian, French, Flemish and Spanish schools of painters. Among some of the most costly pictures, I noticed Murrillos' Holy Eam- F-'^ 106 SKETCHES OF A TOUIt ily, which cost $15,000 ; Raising of Lazarus, 120,000 ; Raffaelle's St. Catherine, $25,000; Ecce Homo, and Mercury instructing Cupid, 152,000 ; St. Paul's Ver- onesis* Family of Darius, $70,000 , besides others of a similar character and cost. London proper contains but few extensive squares or public grounds ; but, of late years, much has been done towards opening up parks, promenades, &;c., in the more distant parts of the city. St. James' Park embraces an area of 90 acres, and is beautifully enriched, in parts, with trees and shrubbery ; in the centre is a small lake, dotted with islets. In this park, adjacent to the parade ground, is a large mortar used in Spain during the Peninsular War ; it is said to be capable of propelling a bombshell to a distance of four miles ; also, a piece of Turkish ordinance, of great length, brought from Alexandria in Egypt. Hyde Park contains 390 acres of ground, intersected with walks and beautified with trees, flowers, &c. On an elevated pedestal stands a collossal statue, cast from the cannon taken at the battle of Salamanca and Waterloo, and erected to the memory of Wellington, and his companions-in-arms. The Great Exhibition of 1851, was held within this park, but the building material has been since removed to Sydenham, 10 miles from London. This park in sum- mer is a favourite resort, and hundreds of people are con- stantly to be seen therein, regaling their senses with the salubrity of the air, and the gaiety of the scene. There are a number of other parks, zoological, botanical and horticultural gardens, of an extensive and magni- ficent character, and well worthy of being visited. Sit- "WW^ ■^ FROM OANADA TO PARIS. 107 uated in James' Park, is Buckingham Palace, the tem- porary residence of the Royal Family : it cost f 3,500- 000, and although not externally enriched with archi- tectural beauty, it is said to contain a number of magni- ficent apartments both for state and domestic purposes. West of Hyde Park is Kensington Palace, formerly a seat of royalty, and the birthplace of Queen Victoria, Lambeth is, however, the most ancient and interesting of all the palaces ; in connection with it is a chapel 600 years old, noted as being the place where all the Episcopal archbishops have been consecrated. At the western end is Lollard's Tower, where some of the nonconformists of former times were imprisoned. Strong iron rings to which the prisoners were bound are still attached to the walls, and in the thick oak- wainscoating many names and inscriptions of a past age are carved, and besides these, many other curios- ities of antiquity are connected with the place. Near the London Bridge stands the monument erected in 1677 in commemoration of the great fire that occurred in September, 1666. It is a fluted Doric column, 202 ft. high, having a gilt finial representing flames of fire. A circular stairway gives an ascent to the top, from which an extensive view can be obtained. By this fire 13,200 houses were destroyed, and 400 streets laid waste. Unfortunately, in rebuilding, an opportunity was not taken to lay out the streets, &c., on a more regular plan, as suggested by Sir Christopher Wren. The old town as it now stands, partakes of much of its former arrangement ; but on account of the rubbish left by the fire, and other casualties, it stands several lOd SKETCHES OF A TOUB m feet higher than it did in the early part of its history. London now comprises 8000 streets and lanes, and con- tains over 400,000 buildings. During the year 1860, no less than 7,500 houses were built ; but the buildings of London are in general small, compared with those of Edinburgh and other cities. The Tower consists of a cluster of structures, of a somewhat dingy and prison- like aspect, surrounded by a wall, and occupying with their garden, &c., about 12 acres. It was founded by William the Conqueror, and since that period many improvements have been added. The interior is an irregular assemblage of short streets and court yards, bounded by various structures : the apartment in which Lady Jane Grey and A.nne Boleyn were imprisoned, were pointed out to me. In the horse-armoury is a long gallery containing an extensive collection of armour, &c., such as hauberks, chausses, baldricks, back and breast plates, chain-mail sleeves and skirts, gauntlets, helmets, frontlets, vamplates, &c. Queen Elizabeth's armoury contains many curious old shields, bows, spon- toons, Spanish instruments of torture, petronels, parti- zans, beheading axe and block, thumbscrews, Lochaber axes, matchlocks, arquebuses, &c. There are also a number of complete suits of armour placed on stuffed figures of men on stuffed horses. In the court-yard are a collection of curious old cannon and mortars belonffins: to different ages and countries. The Jewel-House, a well guarded room, contains a valuable collection of state jewels. Among them are St. Edward's Crown used at all the coronations from Charles II to William IV ; the New State Crown^ made for the coronation of FROM CANADA To PARIS. 109 Jaeen Victoria, and valued at 1500,000 ; the Prince f Wales and the Prince Consort's crowns, the Queen's iadem, the royal sceptre, the orb, and the Queen's rb ; St. Edward's staff", and the rod of equity ; the oronation bracelets and royal spurs; the ampulla or the holy oil, and the coronation spoon ; the silver ;ilt baptismal font used at the christening of the oyal children ; the famous Koh-i-noor y or " mountain f light," formerly the wonderful diamond of Runjeet Singh, Chief of Lahore in India. Through these kpartments and several others I was conducted by a carder enrobed in a curious costume of Henry the jlighth's time, and another clothed with black panta- oons and scarlet hose, surmounted by a stiffly-buttoned acket, similar to the one worn by Dr. Johnson. For heir services rendered to me one shilling only was lemanded. Well satisfied with the sight, I departed nd went on my way rejoicing, and after a walk of hree miles, found myself in the presence of St. Paul's Cathedral. This massive structure is the most promi- lent object in London ; it stands in the centre of a mall enclosed graveyard ; a church is said to have xisted upon its site 400 years before the Norman onquest, and under various shapes and extensions, emained until destroyed by the fire of 1666. The resent edifice was erected under the superintendance f the great architect, Sir Christopher Wren, at a cost f $7,500,000, and occupied 35 years in building. It J built in the form of a cross, 514 feet long and 286 ride. The walls exhibit a double range of windows, 'here are three entrances, each having a portico, one 1 110 SKETCHES OF A TOUR W^M of which has twelve lofty Corinthian pillars, a second order supporting the pediment above. The angles are crowned by two lofty bell towers ; from the centre the great dome arises in gigantic proportions to the magni- ficent height of about 400 feet. The walls present a dull sooty appearance, in many places considerably bleached, and looking hoary with age. To gaze upon this stupendous structure at night, is really an impres- sive sight ; its massive walls, their sombre and hoary aspect, and its lofty domes towering as it were into the immensity of altitude when contrasted with the surrounding edifices, all of which present a majestic and venerable aspect, and impress the beholder with peculiar feelings of awe and reverential solemnity. On entering, the vastness of the interior space, over- arched by the lofty and magnificent dome, produces a wonderful impression to the eye ; the walls have few embellishments ; the choir is, however, adorned with beautiful carving, and the curve of the inner domes contains some e;ccellent paintings. In the cathedral are numbers of statues and monuments to distinguished persons, and in the crypt underneath are the tombs of Wren, Wellington, Nelson, and others. The grand organ is a massive piece of elaborate workmanship. Like Jupiter, it has a voice of thunder, intonating its undulations into melody with a sort of sepulchral solemnity. Six hundred steps give access to the sum- mit of the highest dome, from which a comprehensive view can be obtained. The clock-work and great bell are also attractive objects ; the pendulum is 14 feet long, and the ball attached to its extremity weighs 113 ip^ PEOM CANADA TO PARIS. Ill pounds. The bell is 10 feet in diameter, and in weight exceeds 10,000 pounds. Its tones, which are deep and solemn, are said to be heard distinctly, in a calm evening, at a distance of 12 or 15 miles. Altogether, St. Paul's Cathedral is a stupendous and magnificent edifice, and well worthy of being visited. I also made a visit to the seat of parliament. The building com- prises both Houses ; it is situated close to the river, and was constructed in consequence of the former having been destroyed by fire in 1834. It is a mag- nificent structure of modem Gothic architecture, cov- ering an area of nearly eight acres ; unfortunately it is composed of stone liable to decay. The river front, raised upon a fine terrace of Aberdeen granite, is 900 feet in length, profusely adorned with statues, heraldic shields, and tracery, carved in stone ; the other facades are nearly as elaborate. When completed the building cost over $10,000,000. Every Saturday it is open to visitors ; admission is obtained by getting an order from the Lord Chamberlain. Having thus procured a ticket I entered in company with a number of visitors. The chief public entrance is by Westminster Hall, which forms a vestibule to the chambers of Parliament and their numerous committee rooms. The rooms and stair-cases are almost inconceivably numerous ; and there are said to be two miles of passages and corridors. There are numerous interesting objects connected with this stupendous structure, but I will notice only a few. My previous idea respecting the chambers of the house of Peers and of Commons, was, that they embraced the greater portion of the building ; but on seeing them I 112 SKETCHES OF A TOUR was disappointed ; and considered them of only a very limited and insignificant order, presenting an exceed- ingly dull, sombre appearance. The former is only 97 feet by 45 ; it is so profusely painted and gilt, and the windows are so darkened by deeply stained glasa, that the details are rendered obscurely visible. At the upper end is the canopied and gorgeously gilt throne : near the centre is the woolsack on which the Lord Chancellor sits, surrounded by the cushioned benches for the peers ; at the other end and the sides are galleries for peeresses, reporters, etc. Several frescoes occupy compartments, among which is the Baptism of Ethelbert, and that of Edward III conferring the order of the garter on the Black Prince. In niches between the windows and at the ends, are 18 statues of barons who signed Magna Charta, The chamber of the House of Commons is 62 feet by 45, and is less elaborate in workmanship and embellishments, and has compara- tively a very insignificant appearance. Besides these two chambers there are innumerable royal and state rooms, halls, porches, corridors, towers, lobbies, private chambers, courts, etc. etc., many of which are beau- tifully adorned, but so numerous and complicated, and intersected with passages, etc., that a stranger feels completely bewildered and amazed, and wonders to know for what earthly purpose they were designed. The clock is an object of great interest ; on the four sides of the tower which contain it, are four dial-'plates each 23 feet in diameter. The hour figures are 2 J feet apart: each pair of hands weigh above 240 lbs : the ^ute hands are 16 feet long, and the hour hands 9 VB.0^ CANADA TO PARIS. 113 feet ; the pendulum is 16 feet long and weighs G80 lbs ; the weights hang down a shaft 160 feet. In some of the halls are numerous statues, among which are those of Fox, Pit, Burke, Walpole, Grattan. There is also the Poet's Hall, which contains frescoes of scenes due to the creative genius of many of the celebrated Engliih and Scotch poets. In the royal gallery are some beautiful paintings, among which is a magnifi- cent one, 45 feet by 12, representing the meeting of Wellington and Blucher after the battle of Waterloo. The stained windows are illustrative of events in English history. Connected with this great building there are over 500 statues carved in stone ; besides numerous stained-glass windows, paintings, etc., to an almost indefinite number. Altogether, it is a gorgeous structure of immense magnitude, consisting of many towers, turrets, etc., and most elaborately decorated even to superfluous embellishments. But to be criti- cal, its ornaments and details, in general, are on too minute a scale for the magnitude of the building, and when contrasted with the sombre melancholy-like exterior, appear too flashy and superficial. They are, however, beautiful in themselves, but placed as they are and^in such profuse numbers, they only resemble the tinsel decorations of the savage Indian, and exhi- bit but the effect of a whimsically conceited fancy and an exceedingly bad taste. Nearly opposite the House of Parliament stands Westnunster Abbey. This Cathedral was],founded many centuries ago; but at various times since^ it lu SKSTOHES OF A TOttlt has received additions and improvements. The interior is magnificent ; masses of marble columns separate the nave from the side aisles, beyond which, the eye is attracted by graceful columns, tracery, decorated windows, &c. The walls and side chapels exhibit a rich profusion of statues, sepulchral monu- ments, inscriptions, devices, &c. Above the line of tombs are chambers and galleries, once occupied by grim old ecclesiastics, but now looking solemn and dreary in their antiquity. In one of the chapels is the shrine of St. Edward the Confessor ; also the coronation chadr and the " royal stone^^ brought from Scotland in 1297. Upwards of one hundred shrines and monuments are within the chapels alone ; the choir, transept, and nave, are also enriched with works of sculpture, carving, &c. The Chapel of Henry VII. is admirably grand ; the ascent is by steps of black marble ; the entrance gates display workman- ship of extraordinary richness m brass ; the roof, which is of stone, exhibits an astonishing variety of figures, devices, &c. The stalls are of oak, having the deep tone of age, with Gothic canopies, all elabo- rately carved ; the pavement is of white and black marble ; and beneath is the royal vault where many of the sovereigns of England are entombed. But the tombs in which the remams of Henry VII and his wife were deposited, stand in the body of the chapel, in a curious chantry of brass, admirably executed and interspersed with effigies, armorial bearings and de- vices. It was in this chapel that the " Order of the PatJC^ was formerly conferred, and some of the swords, t*EOH CANADA TO PABIS. 115 helmets, banners, and armorial insignia of the knight- hood, are still there. The Poets Corner is richly adorned with monuments, busts, statues, inscriptions, &c., devoted to eminent authors ; among which are, Chaucer, Spenser, and Shakespeare — Ben Johnson, Milton, Cowley and Dryden — Gay, Addison, Thom- son, and Goldsmith — Gray, Southey, Sheridan and Campbell ; the latest persons of eminence inferred therein are Macaulay and Robert Stephenson. The cloisters and the chapter-house contain a variety of curious old effigies, epitaphs, and inscriptions ; some of which are of a very uncouth and ludicrous character. This Abbey was formerly the place for the inaugu- ration of the English monarchs, among whom was William the Conqueror, who was crowned there in great pomp, over 800 years ago. At the time that I entered the Abbey, divine service was being conducted, so I slid quietly into a vacant seat in the rear. I had scarcely done so, when a respectably dressed gent, carrying an umbrella, came forward and seated him- self on the same bench; before long, he moved closely towards me, and in an undertone asked if I knew if strangers were permitted to examine the interior of the Abbey after service. I answered in the affirmative. Shortly afterwards, the service closed, and I arose to proceed on a stroll through the Church. At this moment, Mr. Ketchum, as I shall call him, very courteously addressed me, and as politely apologized for the liberty of asking if I were an Ame rican, — a countryman of his own — to which I replied that I was a Canadian. ^^ Oh! all right, sir/' said 116 SRETCnES OP A TOUR he, " I simply meant, when I said American, that you belong to the same side of the water as myself. 1 am making a tour through Europe, and whenever I see a person whom I suppose to be either an American or Canadian, I always endeavour to solicit their ac- quaintance ; but," continued he, " I suppose you have not seen the interesting parts of the Abbey, will you therefore accompany me around the interior ?" Such familiarity in a stranger is frequently to be met with in Canada and the United States, but in Britain it is generally unknown, at least, I had hitherto observed a considerable reservedness among the people, unless when parties are introduced, or previously acquainted ; but, as Mr. Ketchum said he was an American, I con- sidered it nothing more than a license of friendship. But to make surer of him, I took another view of his countenance, and at once beheld his character and intentions, and from his accent and manner, i inferred that he was no Yankee, but only a refined Cockney, perchance having spent a few months in the city of New York, and very possibly a graduate of the Presi- deutCriminal University. Be this as it may, I was determined to ascertain if my opinions were correct, and therefore accompanied him through different parts of the building, at the same time inclined to make the best use of my time, while he was apparently anxious to hurry my progress, occasionally intimating that he was perfectly tired of sight-seeing, having seen so much during his travels, ** but,'' said he, " I purpose leaving for New York next week, and when once home, my travels, at least for some time, will be at an PROM CANADA TO PARI8. 117 hendy The pronunciation of the last word induced me to inquire if he were an American by birth. " I am, sir/' said he, " and my parents before me ; I was born in Philadelphia, and am now a merchant tailor in Broadway, New York." Frequently we lost sight of each other among the crowd of visitors, but he was always fortunate enough to discover me aga'n. Hav- ing completed our rounds, we made our exit from the church together, at which time he requested to know at what hotel I was staying. " At the " Yorkshire Grey," near the London Bridge," said I. " Oh, just convenient to the hotel I stay at," said he, *' and I will accompany you so far on your way." We pro- ceeded on, but not far, when he made a sort of wheel- about-halt, and very politely requested me to have a glass of hale, " I seldom take liquor," said I, " and I don't wish for any at present." *' I seldom drink either," said he, " but I feel thirsty and exhausted from travelling about all day, and I dare say you feel pretty much similar ; come, then, let us have only one glass." At this instant I was about to walk oflf, but wishing to probe his intentions a little deeper, I wheel- ed around and entered a beer shop with him. He ap- peared to be perfectly acquainted with the place, for on entering he wheeled suddenly up a stairway, beck- oning me to follow, and we entered a tap-room. Hav- ing pulled a bell-string, he placed a chair for me at the side of the table and then seated himself at the head. We had scarcely sat down when in came a young man, somewhat abruptly, of a roughly rusticated appearance, yet seemingly a good natured sort of i^ "•r-mm^m^^K^mmfm 118 SKETCHES OP A TOUR '-\ fellow, but apparently slightly intoxicated. Assuming the Irishman, he exclaimed : " Arrah, gintlemen, for- give rae ; bedad an' I belave I'va been afther finding my way into the wrong side of the room ; troth an' I wished to git a sup of porter, an' the gintleman below towld me to go aft an' he'd be after following me im- maiditlj, but I hope I haven't molested ye in the laste, yer honors." At this insiant the waiter entered and requested what we desired to drink. " ffale for me," said Ketchum. " Ditto," said I. '* Arrah, yer honour, sir," exclaimed Pat, '* a sup of the best porter for me, but, gintlemen, will yer honours allow me this end of the table to drink wid ye." " Certainly," said Ket- chum, *' at least for my part." 1 also acquiesced. " Faith, an' I'm thankful to ye ; long life to yer honours, and may ye always have a good sup of liquor about ye," said Pat. By this time I began to smell the game about to be played, and found that I had then two strings to my bow ; however, I felt no way alarm- ed, but was determined to scrutinize every movement, and not to budge a wrinkle until I should see greater symptoms, and then to dodge the gamesters with the best military ingenuity I could conjure up. Well, up came the waiter with three mugs of liquor. Pat, who was sitting nearest, removed his porter; the ser- ver was then presented to me, who sat next ; but instead of taking the glass apparently designed for me, I slipped my hand around and took the other, con- sequently Ketchum had to take the remaining one, which undoubtedly was drugged specially for me. *' Well, your honours," said Pat, ** I suppose ye are FBOM CANADA TO FARIS. 119 travellers like myself ; bedad, an' Fm a stranger to the city, but sure an' I'm happy to meet with two sich fine gintlemen as ye'se." " Where do you belong to ?" said K. " To Dublin, sir, where mesilf was bred an' born, every mother's son of us, sure ; an' me name is Paddy O'Murphy." " Well, how did it happen that you have strolled over to London," interrogated K. " Well, gintlemen, if ye plase I will be afther tellin' ye." " Go on then," said K. " Don't be long, as this gen- tleman and I are desirous of leaving immediately," said I. " Well, yer honours, to make a long story short, I will tell ye the whole of it, an' that too, in a couple of Irish minutes. Well, gintlemen, my father had two sons, himsilf an' his brother, an' the nare a bit av a sister he ever had, but me uncle and he went over to Phillamadelphy in the State of Ameriky, an' tharo lie lived every inch av his life an owld widdyir, an' the nare a bit of a child he ever had. But me father was married to Biddy O'Slanna^gan, an' I was the only cliild av the whole family ; but faith, an' they all died, ivery one av them, sure, but mesilf an' me uncle. So I grew up to be a smart lump av a boy, as ye see me ; an' like me owld father, I began to be afther looking out for mesilf, an' bedad an' 1 shoved my hand up to Biddy O'Connel one day, an' towld hur that she had stolen my heart, an' that I would be afther stealing hurs in return. So whin she filt me thurst up me big fisht into hurs, an' saw that I was in earnest, her dar- ling heart jumpt right up to hur xuouth, an' the nare a bit av a word could she spake at all. So I gave her a tinder Mt av a twisht wid me ann^ &a' a nice little 120 SKETCHES OF A TOUR kiss into the bargain, an bedad an she spake thin, an> whisperd, ' Arrah^ Paddy ^ I love yeJ^ * Arrah, my darlin' Biddy,' said I, ' bless yer sowl ! faith, an' I shall soon be afther callin ye Missus Paddy O'Mur- phy.' " Well, gintlemen," continued Pat, " I shall tell ye no more of our courtship ; but, faith, an' I workt hard aftherwards to make a nice little home for mesilf an' Biddy ; but sure an' we" never got married at all, for I gave ivry spare pinny to Biddy, an' the devil-a-haporth was ever left for our wedding." " But, gintlemen," continued Pat, lowering his voice, " I must tell ye the best part av me story. Well, the other day, the praist paid me a visit, an' he towld me that he wished to spake a few words to me." " Faith, an' I suppose you do, yer riverince," said I ; " it is a scowlding you will be afther givin me for not going to confess." " Bedad, gintlemen," said Pat, addressing us, " I staid two Sundays from Church, an' faith, an' I was confessing to Biddy the whole av the time." " Have you been sick, Patrick ?" said the priest to me." " Faith, aju' I have, sir, an' bedad an' I'm sick yet." What has been your trouble, Patrick ?" said he. " No trouble at all, sir," said I ; " only a sort of griping about my heart, and the nare a wink of sleep I can git, an' sure an' I'm draiming the whole of the night." " The praist then put his finger around my wrist and towld me to put out me tongue." " Faith, an' my tongue an' me wrist is well enough ; sure it is me heart that is wrong, an' troth an' I feel as if I had no heart at all." " Oh, I can soon cure you of that," said the priest smiling. " Bedad an' ye can, sir," FBOM CANADA TO PARIS. 121 said I, " but the nare a haporth or money I have to give ye for your medicine." " The praist then began to look seriously into me face, an' at lingth he towld me that me uncle in Philamedelphy was dead." " Arrah, musha me sowl, an is he dead, sir ?" said I. " Bedad an' I'm sorry to hear sich a bad account of him." " So I began to sob,, an' a flood of tares came over my eyes." " But I have better news than that to be telling ye of," said the praist ; ** your uncle has left you the whole of his money to the amount of X60,000." " Faith, an' if that's so, I'm glad he's dead, sir," said 1, clapping both me hands together. " It's the money, sir, that I want, yer riverince, an I'll be afther giving ye a share of it, if ye'U convirt Biddy O'Connel into Missus O'Murphy ; — sure an' have ye any of the money wid ye, yer honour." " Not any, Patrick," said the praist, " I've only received a check for it on a London bank, an' you must accompany me thither." " Faith, an' I will, sir, yer honour, if it's the money I'll be afther getting." " From this moment, my heart felt perfectly relieved, an' early next morning the praist and mesilf left Dublin an' to-day we arrived in London ; so we got the money every farthing of it, sure ; but I gave it all to the praist to take care of it, an' I only kept X1600 to mesilf, an' I intend bestowing the one half to the poor. So I slippt out from his riverince to have a bit of a stroll be mesilf, so I strolled hither and thither until I was nearly choked wid the hait and the dust ; then I walked into a tavern to git a noggin, and met a gintleman there from Manchester, an' we had a 122 SKETCHES OF A TOUR couple of pulls together ; an' by me sowl, he was a gintleman indeed ; an' on laiving I gave him 150 guineas to bestow on the poor of that city." Pat at this instant drew from his pocket a purse filled with glittering guineaa, also from an under coat pocket a large roll of flashy bank-notes. " Look ye here, gintlemen," said he, " this is the sum I intend bestowing ; an I'm willing to give a sum of it to any gintleman, who will act as a friend to the needy, for I was poor mesilf an' knows what it is to be widout a farthing." " Well, friend, if you wish to intrust me with a sum, I shall faithfully distribute it to those I find to be in need of it," said K. " Faith, an' perhaps an' yer in nade of it yersilf," ejaculated Pat. "I hope you don't mean to insult me,", replied K. " Ar- rah, faith, an' its mesilf would be the last man to be guilty of such a trick ; only I wish to know so nething of ye afore I bestow my gift. I always measure a stranger by the money he has got ; but I judge from mesilf, for whin I was poor I was always graiping an grasping. An' sometimes I grasped over me own mug, but since I got my money I feel as if I could give it all to every one but mesilf." " You seem to insinuate that it is money that characterises the honour of the gentleman ; if so, I can show you enough of that," replied K ; and therewith he drew out a clasp- purse filled with guineas, also a large rolls of bills, and showed them to him, exclaiming : " Look you here, friend, at this, and I have a hundred times that amount at home." " Faith, an' that'll do," said Pat, ^' I see yer the right sort of gintleman afther aH ; FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 123 bedad, an I'll give ye X200." Then turning to me, he said, — " An' sure an' is there iny poor in the part of country ye belong to." " Numbers of them," said I. " Well, then, can I be afther doing anything for them," said he. " If you wish to confer a gifl upon them, I assure you I will faithfully bestow it." " Troth, and yer a stranger to me, — an' I always measure a man by his money," said Pat. " He wishes to see what money you have with you, and therefrom, to judge of your honesty and respectability," said Ketchum, " and I suppose the more we can show him the greater will be the donation." " Faith, and ye've towld the truth, sir ; Bedad, an' I see ye understand every word of it now," responded Pat. At this moment I saw that the bubble which Pat had been blowing up so beautifully, had assumed por- tentous dimensions, — and I was at the point of burst- ing it into pieces, by abruptly making my exit, if pos- sible. But I was determined to stand my ground, and see who would play their part of the game best. " Well," said I, if you measure my character by my money, you will find it to be small indeed ; but I can show you certificates if you wish." " Away wid yer surtivigates, — the devil a surtivigate I want to see, its the money I want to see, to show yer respectabili- ty. " Well, you can show him what money you have got with you, said Ketchum ; it will perhaps satisfy him. At this moment I felt somewhat chajgrined, but not afraid, although I had over 'f 100 in my pocket, and no weapon of defense whatever ; so I turned around somewhat abruptly to Pat, and staring sharply into his -Jl ( 'hi ',','1' f. * I 124 SKETCHES OF A TOUB countenance, said, " Well, I have no money to show you, and don't wish to getany of yours ; however, seeing you are yet ignorant of the world and human nature in general, I simply advise you, as a friend, to take care of your money „and don't fool either it or yourself in the presence of strangers ; but above all, I warn you to beware of the " Sharper s of London, ^^ who prolyl about, and are to be found in every hole and corner ; but I don't mean to insinuate that either this gentle- man or I belong to that class ; we are strangers to each other, and wish only to act as friends to you ;— therefore, take my advice, and take care of yourself and money ; do as I do, whenever you travel about a city, just carry enough in the one pocket to treat your- self or a friend, with — and in the other, a six-barrelled pistol to treat those who attempt to molest you." I saw at this instant, that Pat appeared to be crest-fallen ; and Ketchum looked as if he had swallowed a bitter pill. But Pat having mustered up sufficient fortitude, exclaimed, — " Bedad, but yer a gintleman afther all, and I'm thankful to ye for yer advice. Now, gin- tlemen, swallow yer beer, an' I'll be afther traiting ye mesilf an' drinking yer healths." Until this moment the liquor had remained untouched, — so Pat tilted up his glass, and. Ketchum pretended to taste his, but spat furiously out, exclaiming " goodness ; but that ha-^ ia as sour as Lucifer." " Bedad an' if it is, spill ■ lit, and I'll be afther getting ye some of the best." * i^cuO for me," said I, ** it is nearly dark, and my friend and I must be going." " And what time is it by yer watch yer honour," said be. " About 6 o'clock A TOUR FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 125 have no money to show )f yours; however, seein^ vorld and human nature rou, as a friend, to take i fool either it or yourself but above all, I warn you of London ^^^ who prowl every hole and corner ; 5 that either this gentle- is ; we are strangers to ict as friends to you ;— ad take care of yourself lever you travel about a one pocket to treat your- the other, a six-barrelled pt to molest you." I saw ared to be crest-fallen ; had swallowed a bitter d up sufficient fortitude, r a gintleman afther all, yer advice. Now, gin- I'll be afther traitingye s." Until this moment ched, — so Pat tilted up nded to taste his, but " goodness ; but that Bedad an' if it is, spill g ye some of the best." s nearly dark, and my " And what time is it he. " About 6 o'clock said I." " Bedad an' that's a darlin bit of a watch ye've got ; jest sich a one as mesilf wants to be strollen about wid ; will ye sell it, yer honour, and Til be afther giving ye a mighty big sum for it ; well, how much will ye sell it for ?" " 50 guineas," said I, " and no less." " Bedad an' I'll give ye the half, but praps I'll be afther giving ye more afther I trait yese." Hurry up with your liquor then," ejaculated K, — " and we will leave immediately after." At this order, Pat instantly sprung to his feet, shoved the three glasses into the server, and hurried away down stairs, to bring up some of the genuine " London Porter." Being naturally gifted with a keen discernment of human nature, I never had found any difficulty in reading character, and, deciphering the intentions of the heart as represented by either words, actions, or appearance, and was there- fore, always fortunate enough to elude the fangs of any impostor. In this case, I had anticipated their strate- gies, and apprehended the consequences ; but, per- chance, I had ventured a little too far for my own safety ; I knew that several accomplices were connec- ted with the plot, which was ingeniously designed, — First, Mr. Ketchum, the gentleman actor, had so far effected his part; but the waiter and Murphy had failed in theirs ; the story, no doubt, was designed to divert my attention and cover over suspicion, and through the aid of Ketchum, to discover what money I had with me ; attemptmg to buy my watch was also another bait ; and if they failed in dispossessing me of it, they would at least try to procure it by their coun- terfeit money. Murphy going down for the liquor, iu* m SKETCHES OF A TOlTft stead of ringing for the waiter, was, to have it pro- perly drugged and personally given ; and if this failed, their design, no doubt, was to take, by force, every valuable article I had with me. Apparently I was likely to be in immediate danger ; but the most favour- able moment wherewith to effect an escape had come, and to do so with perfect composure and policy ; — so turning towards Ketchum, and also, rising from my seat, I said, " I'm certainly sure that that fellow has been fooling us, and that he has fled ; so I'll just sHp down softly and see if he is below.'* " Oh, not at all," said he, " I'm certain he's all right ; hold on a minute, and we'll get a haul from him yet." *' I assure you, sir, he has gone," said I, " wait just a moment and I'll peep down the stairway to satisfy myself" — and before Ketchum had time to make a reply or retard my progress, I had slipt out of the room, and glided down stairs in a jiffey. In passing towards the door I noticed Murphy and two rough looking fellows in a side room, talking softly together and preparing the liquor ; but just as I had opened the door to effect a passage, a person from behind caught me by the shoulder, exclaiming — " surely yoM^re not off,^^ I sprang from the grasp and gained the street; then wheelmg around I was perfectly amazed to find that the person was none other than Ketchum, who had hurriedly followed me down the staiifl. At this instant, Pat, accompanied by his two accomplices, came forward, and exclaimed, — ^" Arrah, don't ye be a foolmg yerself and ivry one of us in this manner. These two gintlemen are travellers like PtLOU OANAJ)A TO PARIS. m oursilves, and I want to be afbher traiting yese all, come in then wid ye." — " In a moment, sir," said I. " Och, none of yer tomfoolery ; bedad and I will carry ye up meself," said Pat, jokingly, and in fun-like atr tempting to clutch hold of my arm. At this moment one of the London Bridge omnibuses came wheeling along, I beckoned to the conductor, leapt forward, and mounted the top. Then turning towards the four sharpers who were still standing together outside, I very politely doflfed my hat, and made four of the most graceful bows I had ever made, accompanied with the words, " Good hye^ gentlemen,'^ The carriage again rattled along the street, and until it turned a comer I saw them still standing, like Grecian statues, gazing after me with bewildered amazement, while I had the pleasure of bowing them out of my presence, and the good fortune to make my escape and arrive safely at my lodgings. CHAPTER VII. Sabbath had again dawned upon the great metro* polls. I arose, and after breakfast, strolled over to the London-Bridge. Vast numbers, consisting of men, women and children, were flocking thither, to the numerous ranall steamers ready to convey them to different parts beyond the city, to spend the day in recreational enjoyment, the manner in which thousands, even of those who profess, to be Christians, desecrate the " Day of the Lord." I am sorry to think that so 128 SiCETOHES OF A tOtit many advocate the necessity of Sabbath exercise. In Europe the impression is becoming more generally entertained, and the innovations of Fashionable Reli- gion are too frequently to be met with. I am willing to advocate the necessity of whatever would be conducive to benefit physical or moral nature ; but I cannot see the philosophy of additional exercise on the Sabbath to those who have been exercising their bodies all week. True, fresh air is an essential ingredient of health, but, at the least, 50 per cent of those who go hunting for fresh-air, on Sabbath, come back tainted with the foul air of the alcoholic atmosphere, exhausted with the exercises of the day, in many cases, feeling miserable and discontented, and perhaps, a shilling or two mis- spent on unnecessary and injurious indulgences. The Sabbath was designed by the Creator, to be perpetually a day of Sacred Devotion to mankind, and a day of physical rest to every beast of labour. Resting from toil recruits the exhausted energies, and produces a salutary effect. Devotional exercise forms a closer communion between Man and his Maker : it is a medi- cine to the wearied soul, a balm to the troubled con- science, and at length, a ministering angel to the spirit that is ready to close its eyes forever upon the world. Wishing to spend my Sabbath in London in some other way than pleasure-sailing, I determined on em- bracing the opportunity of hearing the Revd. Mr. Spurgeon preach. On my arrival at the Metropolitan Tabernacle, at least half an hour before the service was commenced, a vast crowd was assembled in front of the building, whilst others were continually arriving. Tsn FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 129 Seat-holders are requested to be in their places at a certain time, otherwise their seats are not reserved: they entered by side-gates where officials were placed to scrutinize their tickets. Five minutes previous to the commencement of the service the front doors were opened to all-comers. It was really wonderful to see how eagerly the waiting hundreds rushed inward, and how rapidly the seats were filled. I entered along with the pressing crowd, and seated myself in the first gallery, at the extreme part of the building, directly opposite the preacher's platform. The church is a commodious, and finely constructed building,of Grecian architecture, and fronted by a magnificent portico, surrounded by lofty Corinthian pillars, and finely pro- portioned. The interior of the building is capacious, and of a plain but elegant appearance. The seats in the area are disposed in an amphitheatrical form ; there are two tiers of galleries supported on light pil- lars* The whole is painted in white of a delicate tone, and interspersed with gilding of a light and chastelike appearance. The accoustic properties of the building are excellent, and in striking contrast with many badly constructed churches and public halls. The Taber- nacle is seated for 6000 people, but no less than 7000 are said to be crowded into it every Sabbath. Instead of a pulpit there is provided a spacious platform, abut- ting from one end of the building, in line with the first gallery, and having a railing in front. In the middle of the platform, stands a small table with a desk: behind, the I is a sofa^ on which at intervals of the service 130 SK£TCH£S OF A TOUR preacher may rest. Exactly at a quarter to eleven Mr. Spurgeon very quietly came down an aisle leading to the platform, followed by a number of his church offi- cials, who seated themselves in the gallery behind him. Having knelt a few moments in silent prayer, he arose, and every eye was directed towards him. I gazed intently upon him, and wondered if I were really in the presence of the great Spurgeon. He was appar- ently of the average height, or perhaps a little under ; thickset, of a somewhat clumsy-like, rusticated aspect, resembling that of the workman rather than a pro- fessional gentleman, and although only about 34 years of age he appeared to be over that of 40. His coun- tenance had a pale, inexpressive appearance ; and his head, though not of the highest phrenological order, was prominent in the perceptive faculties. Be it re- membered, that it is not upon the physical exterior alone that intellect depends. Many of the higher order of spirits have been encased in very insignificant tenements. How beautifully is the noble superiority of the soul expressed by the physically inferior but intellectually great Sir Isaac Watts, when he says, " Were I so tall io reach the polo Or grasp the ocean with a t;prin, I must be measur'd by my soul, The mind's the standard of ihe man. Mr. Spurgeon began the service by reading a hymn; which he read through very distinctly. Haying re- peated the first verse, the precentor, who was also upon the platform, stood up and started the tune, FROM CANADA TO PAHIS. 131 the whole congregation also simultaneously arose, and universally joined in the singing, which was animated, yet solemnly melodeous. The sight of so vast an audience, so variegated in aspect, and so visibly seen, was really picturesquely beautiful ; but when accom- panied by the mingled melody of 7000 voices, the eiTect was truly of a celestial order, most solemnly impressive, and required no instrumental accom- paniment nor selected band of choristers to sustain or enhance it. Mr. Spurgeon then knelt in prayer, the whole audience assuming the same attitude, or leaning forward from their seats. After a few moments of intense silence, in this position, he lifted up his voice to God. His prayer consisted of manly and empha- tically devout appeals to the Throne of Grace ^ pos- sessing none of that wearisome iteration, nor of that offensively familiar language, nor puling, manneristic tone, which too frequently characterize the interces- sions of the pulpit : Mr. Spurgeon*s prayers were in- deed prayers in reality. Short, pithy, and appropriate addresses to God, and not carefully prepared sermons committed to memory, and addressed only to the audience, under the guise of prayer, such as too many preachers are apt to indulge in. It would indeed be a blessing to their congregations, if those ministers who read their prayers, or, those whose aiTected zeal over-run their discretion, would take a lesson from Mr. Spurgeon in the right method of prayer. The preacher then selected a chapter and read, occasionally making short comments in elucidation of passages which seem- ed to require it. Having given out his text from 132 SKETCHES OF A TOUR Psalm 100, verse 2, he advanced to the railing, and in a plain but earnestly affective manner, delivered his sermon, during which time he occasionally varied his position, addressing different parts of his audience in rotation. His style of preaching was simple but earnestly impressive, varied in intonation as the sen- tence or sense required it : yet never descending so low as to lose its wonted vigour, nor at times so high and boisterous as to jar harshly on the ear. His voice is unquestionably one of the chief sources of his greatness. There was no affected or ill-placed em- phasis, nor drawling mannerism ; no conventional pro- nunciation, nor straining at effect. He occasionally used strange, even startling expressions, but the real talisman that gives him his power, is, that he preaches the pure gospel of Christ, in plain and appropriate language, easily to be understood by all. There was no darkening of counsel by a cloud of words, no wearisome repetition, no embarrassing divergence from the main argument, which was carried out simply but logically to its conclusion, so as to be easily compre- hended and ever to be remembered. He avoided diving into the depths of theology, so as not to lose his own footing nor embarrass and bewilder his au- dience. In his argument he appeared to deal largely in the objective and concrete, instead of the subjective and abstract, endeavouring to follow the example of Christ, the greatest of all exemplars, who knowing the varied characteristics of human nature, uttered the words of Divine Wisdom with marvellous simplicity, jmd generally with reference, as illustrations, tc fam- ■■■i PROM CANADA TO PARIS. 133 iliar objects which happened to present themselves to his notice as he spoke. It is a consummation devoutly to be wished, that sermons would be made more interesting than they generally are, — not lengthy, elaborate, didactic essays, — but otherwise, character- ized by counsel and earnestly heart-felt pleadings, diversified, explained and enforced by attractive and suitable illustrations, and conveyed in simple and ap- propriate language. Were such the case, preachers would have less cause for blaming the drowsiness of their hearers, — an effect, for which they themselvea are more frequently to blame than they perhaps ima- gine. Mr. Spurgeon is indeed a hard worker in the vineyard of Christ, and in every sense of the word, he spends and is being spent in the service of his Maker ; besides preaching twice every Sabbath, he has prayer- meetings, service, and other meetings, &c., &c., during almost every day of the week. Notwithstanding the faults which have been attributed to him, he is truly a remarkable man — a man of practical genius, an energetic, sincere, persevering and successful labourer in the cause of the Gospel^ and one vvho may be cre- ditably entitled as one of the " men oi the times." Mr. Spurgeon was to preach again at 6 in the evening. At which hour the Rev. Dr. Gumming was also to hold divine service. It was impossible to attend both, so I decided in favour of going to hear the latter, the great Apostle ^j vhe Apocalypse. Therefore, at a seasonable hour, I started in the direction of Crown Court. I followed along Cannon Street, passe i St. Paul's Cathedral, thence by Ludgate and Fle^t 134 SKETCHES OP A TOlta Street towards the Strand. Fleet street is the main ar- tery from St. Paul's to the Western part of the city. It has for a long series of years been peculiarly associ- ated w'.fch literature and literary men. Its old taverns and club-houses carry the fancy back to the days when flourished the giants of English Literature, and conjure up the echoes of the joyous revelry of Ben Johnson and his associates. — the literary banquets of Dr. John- son, Boswell and Goldsmith, — Pope, Dryden, Thomson and Richardson, and a host of other congenial spirits. At the Western extremity of Fleet street is Temple Bar, which consists of a central arch- way and two smaller ones, erected by Wren in 1672, and at that time, designated the Western limit of the city. For- merly the heads of decapitated criminals were placed on the top of Temple Bar, as a terror to evil doers. Leaving the Strand, I passed up by Covent Garden and Bow street, thence undor the colonnade of Drury Lane Theatre, and directly opposite, is the entrance of Crown Court, in which is situated the Scotch Kirk of the Rev. Doctor Cumming. Before entering I cast a glance over the massive exterior of " Old Drury Lane Theatre,*' — that place so full of dramatic associations, and within whose walls some of the brightest suns of the theatrical firmament have shone ; there^ Kean, Kemble, Siddons and O'Neil once flourished amid the magnificence of their genius, and dazzled their audience with the lightening flashes of their own glory. When I arrived at the church, although early by half an hour, numbers of strangers, apparently Scotchmen, were congregated around the door. The manner of FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 135 ingress is similar to that at the Tabernacle. At length I entered with the crowd, and became seated in the basement, at a convenient distance from the pulpit. The church is somewhat obscurely situated, and pos- sesses few architectural attractions ; the interior has. a plain old fashioned appearance. The pulpit is placed in the middle of the one side, — a gallery surrounds the other, and the ends also. All the pews, and even the aisles were filled by the audience, which had in general, a very respectable and even an aristocratic appearance. The congregation having become seated,' his rei'er.mac, ihc great great Dr. Cumming, attired in a plain cioiical gown, entered, and ascended the pulpit. He appeared to be about 60 years of age — slightly above the average height ; and in general, of a very clerical and gentleman-like appearance. His features are very expressive ; countenance, mild and prepossessing, at times shaded by a tinge of melan- choly ; fore-head expansive and prominent, especially in the region of thv^ reflective faculties ; hair of a greyish tinge ; side- 'vhhkers of moderate length ; eyes, large and dark, of a lerious and fearless expression, and over them a pai'^ of spectacles are constantly to be seen. After a few jQoments of silent prayer, the Rev. Doctor arose, and gave out a hymn. The precen- tor, accompanied by a young lady apparently posses- sed of extraordinary vocal powers, commenced the tune ; the audio *ce also stood up, and the singing be- came general. Jo fashionable music box, or note chor- isters, were there, nor air-blower, sweating over his rno^>-handle, to assist in the manufacturing of ardfi' 136 stCETCHEs OP A Totra cial praise to God. It was truly congregational praise, — earnest and animated ; and not the empty and unmeaning sounds of a note hook and finger orchestra^ too frequently to be seen in churches, — while the great majority of the audience remain as silent in the praise of God, as the heathen idols of Hindostan. The service throughout was similar to that at the Ta- bernacle. The prayers were short, earnest, expres- sive and devout appeals to God. There were none sitting in pews lazy-like' dur" a g the time of praise, nor any standing up, boldly, like < i-gazers, at prayer ; those irreverent and unsanctifie. - uke fashions are too frequently to be seen in Presbyterian Churches. The attitude of worship should always be in uniformity to its part. Praise is characteristic of the devotional soul soaring up in melody to God ; and prayer, expressive of the humble, repentant, prostrate and beseeching heart, in close communion with its Maker: — therefore, the attitude of every worshipper, like that of the Israelites of old, should naturally correspond with the object and feelings at the time. The preacher's voice, though not loud, was clear and musical. While preacliing he used no fastidious affectation in gesture, no boisterously emphatic, or low under-toned expres- ssion. His style was natural, serious, and solemnly impressive, — no repetition nor hesitation, nor overstrain- ing of language or comphcation of ideas ; all was deeply beautiful and harmonious — ^rolling onward in its uninterrupted course like some majestic river along an extensive and picturesquely variegated valley. I may here state, that in neither of those two churches were PROM OANADA 1^0 PARIS. ist the devotional feelings of the audience disturbed by the unhallowed presence of collection bags being passed around — a practise too characteristic of the tem- poral nature to be allowed to come in immediate con- tact with the spiritual. Instead of Sabbath contribu- tions in the divine sanctuary, whatever money may be required for Church purposes, should be proportion- ably imposed upon the families of the congregation, and collected with the preacher's salary. Neither the Sabbath nor the Church is ' an appropriate day or place to collect money, especially at that moment when the feelings of the audience are supposed to be purely spiritual, earnest, and devotional ; and when the wings of the Almighty are overshadowing the sanctified altar of religious devotion. Every Christian minister, be of whatever denomination he is, should banish that unhallowed custom from their presence, and hurl the Judas bag into the depths of Pagan ob- livion. I may further add that Dr. Gumming is apparently a profound scholar, an ingenious logician, and a deeply comprehensive theologist; but perhaps a little too ardently ima^native on prophetic themes, and thereby liable to overshoot his mark. Contrasted with Spur- geon, his intellect is of a higher order, and more accurately developed ; his language is eloquent, and his arguments clear and convincmg ; he has a mind capable of soaring, eagle-winged, towards the skies, or diving into the intricate recesses of human nature, with a manly and masterly ability. His sermon was characterized by the simplicity of profound theology, 138 SKETCHES OF A TOUR suited more for the head than the heart, and designed rather for the literary than the illiterate mind ; whereas, the ingenuity of Spurgeon was displayed in his purely simple and ingeniously adjusted thoughts, embodied in plain language, interspersed with startling eccentrici- ties of appropriate illustration, and with unerring aim, directed solely to the depraved heart. Gumming is intellectually magnificent and impressive; and truly pleasing to the theological student and converted Chris- tian, whereas Spurgeon is attractive, striking and persuasive, laying bare the immoral infirmities of human nature, and pointing out to every man as a sin- ner, the Bethsaidan Pool, the Good Samaritan and the Heavenly Physician. Early on Monday morning I took steamer and sailed up to Richmond, 16 miles from London, calling at Kew and Chelsea on my return-way. The vicinity of Richmond is interesting and beautiful, and well worthy of being visited. The most attractive object at Kew '':ro the Botanical Gardens, 75 acres in extent, and containing a rare collection of exotics. Chelsea, now joined to London, is noted for its hospital for old sol- diers. Itg inmates wear an antique sort of garb, and numbers of them may be seen loitering around the neighbourhood ; in one of the apartments I saw over 100 flags that were taken by English soldiers in battle* On the following day I went down to Greenwich, six miles from London, thence to Woolwich, three miles further. Greenwich Hospital is an immense building, and contains over 3000 pensioners, a queer lot of follows they appear to be, attired in garbs as antique as them- PROM CANADA TO PARIS. 139 selves. They are chiefly old sailors and naval soldiers, with countenances tarnished by tropical suns, or bleach- ed by Northern tempests or Arctic frosts ; some were hobbling about ori crutches ; others, with empty sleeves or perhaps, only one eye, and otherwise disfigured. The picture gallery contains numerous paintings and portraits, chiefly of naval victories, -celebrated admirals and navigators. On the summit of the hill in the adjoining park is the famous Royal Observatory, from which place British geographers used to measure their longitude. Woolwich is noted for its naval and mili- tary arsenal, the grounds of which are a mile in length, bounded on the one side by the Thames, and is occu- pied in part by prodigious ranges of storehouses and workshops ; among which is a laboratory for the pre- paration of cartridges, bombs, grenades and shot: a * manufactory for Armstrong guns ; a gun carriage factory, etc., and, besides, a store of war-material, prodigious in extent and most astonishing in ap- pearance. On Wednesday morning I went out to Sydenham to see the Crystal Palace. This building is composed of the material that constituted the Great Exhibition Palace of Hyde Park in 1851. It is 1600 feet in length by 380 at greatest width, and the central transept, 200 feet high. It consists of a nave and three transepts, all with arched roofs, and composed of iron and glass. The immense size, height, and complicated texture of the building presented a most magnificently beautiful and delicate-like appearance, which reminded me of some romantic frost-work of Fairy-Land rather than a palpable reality. On viewing the interior I I 140 SlCE!rOHE8 01* A TOUR felt bewildered with amazement, amid the vast collected variety of the works of both art and nature ; but I will not attempt to delineate in general, as the marvels of this unparalleled structure are too numerous to be described within a limited space. In the building are compartments to illustrate the sculpture and architec- ture of different ages and countries of the world, and the specimens contained therein are numerous. The botanical department is also grand ; it contains a vast variety of rare exotics, among which are the palms, bananas and gigantic ferns of the tropics. There are also a number of foreign animals, fowls, reptiles, etc., also groups representing men and families of different races ; compartments illustrating the products of in- dustry, and in the basement both men and machinery were in motion in the manufacturing of various articles. The upper department contains a collection of 3000 paintings, portraits, etc. In the central transept is the great orchestra constructed for the " Handall Festival" of 1857, and is capable of containing 5000 instrumental and vocal performers. The organ is of immense size, and contains four rows of keys, 74 stops, and 459^ pipes. Convenient thereto is the concert room, which can accommodate an audience of 4000. At each end of the building are water-towers, 300 feet high, they are supplied by water from an Artesian well 600 feet deep, worked by steam engines. The fountains in the gardens adjoining are also supplied therefrom, some of these fountains throw up magnificent streams, 250 feet high, displaying thousands of minute glittering jets in- terlacing each other in a most graceful yet fantastic v*!ft.«ffl*''jiv'JttW'Jr FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 141 manner, and appearing like trellis-work ; when the whole of the water-works are playing, no less than 12,000 jets are in motion. A portion of the water from each tower, is directed in its course, imitative of two cascades each 450 feet in length, 100 in width, and having a water-fall of 12 feet in depth. There were upwards of 10,000 visitors that day at the Crystal palace, and the scenes throughout were inter- estingly attractive. In the early part of the day I incidentally formed a temporary acquaintance with a young Scotchman, then on his way home from Austra- lia. In company with him I strolled over every de- partment of the huilding, and attended the perfor- mances of the orchestra and the concert. I noticed in the programme that at 5 p.m., " Lacrosse'^ and other Indian games were to be played in the park by a troupe of North American Indians. Tired with the exercise of the day, I purposed strolling over to the play grounds and refresh my eyes with a sight of the savages of the Western Continent. I asked my Scotch friend to ac- company me ; but he preferred a repose on one of the lounges in the picture gallery until my return. I then descended the stairway, but before proceeding further, halted a few moments to look at a group of figures re- presenting a family of South Sea Islanders. Just then a gentleman came forward to gaze also. Turning around to me in a familiar style, he said, " That is indeed a very fine group, sir !" I looked at him and replied in the affirmative. " Excuse me the liberty of asking if you are an American," said he. " I am from Canada, sir/' said I, " Well," said he, " I belong to Bo^tonj 142 SKETOnES OF A TOUR U.S., but I am now making a tour for the benefit of my health ; I have felt lonely since I left home, and always feel happy to meet with any one from America." Another London sharper^ thought I, and fo» liwith I left him somewhat very abruptly, and walked smartly to the next stairway, thence descended to the base- ment, but before going out entered a saloon to procure some refreshments. At that instant a person from be- hind tapped my shoulder and asked me to have a glass of porter. On turning around I recognized him to be Mr. " Sharper ^^^ who had followed me down, no doubt, for some selfish purpose. I sternly refused to comply with his request, though repeated, and immediately withdrew, whereupon he followed me to the outside of the building, and oflfered to accompany me through the park, which he said was exquisitely beautiful, particu- larly the floral gardens. I told him I was too tired to do so, and forthwith placed myself ona bench adjacent to the palace. He seated himself also, and handed me a pear to eat, which I put into my pocket, and pulling out my pipe, I said I would try the virtue of tobacco first. Having asked the time of day, and made several personal interrogations, he inquired what had become of my companion. " What companion ?" said I. " The young man I saw with you inside." This was 'evidence enough to substantiate my anticipated ideas of him, and show that he had been dogging our footsteps. Be this as it may, I was determined to probe his intentions, by trying an experiment, so turn- ing to him, I said, " I am but partially acquainted with the young man \ he belongs to Scotland, and is on his -^^31 FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 143 way home from the gold fields of Australia." " In- deed !" said he ; " then I suppose his pockets are well filled v'ith gold-dust.'' " I think so," said I, " for I had the pleasure of seeing a number of his Australian Kangaroo dollars, as he called them." This was a magic thrill to the nerves of " Sharper," and like the magician's enchanted wand, it wrought wonders. I saw at once that my golden words had touched the softer feelings of his nature, and left their sovereign impression thereon ; he became restless at once, and the very seat appeared to be gettiiig too hot for him, and therewith he abruptly rose, exclaiming : " Oh ! by the bye, I promised to meet a person in the palace at this very hour ; but you stay here, I shall return shortly. No sooner had he left than I pitched the pear, which no doubt was drugged, into a cistern near by, then ran forward to a side door, hurried up to the gallery, tapped my companion upon the shoulder, and told him to hasten downward and see the wonderful giant and elephant ; whereupon he followed at quick step ; but on looking behind as I was about to descend the stairway, I got a glimpse of Sharper entering the gallery from the opposite side. On returning to the seat at the outside of the building, I told the Scotch- man what had preceded ; but he only laughed at my apprehensive ideas. A few minutes had only passed when Sharper agaui made his appearance, accompanied by another person, apparently an accomplice. Ap- proaching us very familiarly, he intimated his purpose of haying a glass with his friend, and desired me to brmg in ^y companion and participate. I refused. ■f person ordered. Such arrangements as a whole are truly a comfort and a blessing to many a traveller, particularly women. On many boats 2nd class passengers are little better used than cattle; they are confined in a narrow cell, or subjected to the weather, without comfort and accommodation. In this condition how many a poor sickly mother, with perhaps a helpless family, passes many a long weary hour, it may be, during the chilly and dreary season of the night. I have often wondered why our Canadian Steamer Companies should be so destitute of feeling towards 2nd class passengers. In the oabin every comfort and accommodation, also every article adapted to please and gratify the senses, are r..*^;ili*t*. FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 149 provided for class No. 1 ; whilo that of No. 2 is as diametrically opposite as Hades is to Heaven. Why not imitate the system of the London Steamer Company, and give comforts and accommodation at a proportional figure. Money, I fear, too frequently marks out the great line of demarcation, and gives to its possessor, even though he be a blackguard or a fool, every comfort and enjoyment, and a higher posi- tion in the eyes of the world and himself than he is entitled to ; whereas, many a noble heart beats under a coarse garb, and how many a gifted soul has to cringe under the tyranny of unfortunate circumstances, and sacrifice its dignity too frequently, to the over- ruling power of mercenaries, who ape the gentleman, and yet frown down disdainfully with a tyrant's feel- ings upon poor, suffering humanity. The jolly Englishmen on board had a good time, bottle after bottle of ale, porter and brandy were emptied, and songs, recitations and jokes were dashed off with excellent humor. At length a few of the party became top-heavy, and keeled over. They were soon hurried into their berths to make ampler room in the hall; but not before each was attired in the clothes of another. Next morning they were perfectly astonished at their appearance ; some of them almost doubting their own identity. Among the party that night was a very small pox-indented, insignificant looking Frenchman, who when he became half in- toxicated, began speechifying in a jargon of bastard English, in favour of England and Englishmen in general, which elicited tremendous cheering aud m 150 SKETCHES OF A TOUR applause; one of the party, however, offended him by proposing a vote of thanks to the speaker, whom he would denominate by the illustrious title of Napoleon Bonaparte, La Petite, This proposition started the Frenchman again to his feet ; throwing himself into every form of excited gesture, he dashed oif, boldly, a tremendous volley of denunciations against England and Englishmen, — and told them that Napoleon I, through the treachery of Prussia, had failed to subdue England ; but that Napoleon III could, at any moment if he chose, annihilate England and blot out Prussia from the world, — and at length, he flourished off" with an emphatic outburst of egotistic valour, in a threa- tening aspect, exclaiming boldly — " vous bloody Hang- lishmans — me voight you tout de suite, the best man too ; me voight ; — oui monsieur s ; vous mean mans ; vous cochon, ^c. The Englishmen, wishing to carry on the fun, took all very good naturedly and cheered loudly ; one of them at length arose and proposed a vote of thanks to the speaker and three cheers to Napoleon III ; which was responded to with lusty chorus, all shouting out emphatically — " Vive V Empereur ;''^ vive la France, ^c. This acted like magic upon the better feelings of the Frenchman, and he became excitedly over-joyed, exclaiming—" vous bon Hanglishman, vous amez la France ,je vous aime; vive la Heine, ^c, and there- with he ordered a dozen bottles of porter to the Com- pany ; after which, another vote of thanks was propos- ed, and it was drank in all the glorious honours of up- roarious excitement. At the door of the ladies' apart~ ^j/m'^T^jw'^ FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 151 ment stood a tall, meagre, masculine-like woman, looking on eagerly, apparently much displeased with the proceedings. She was none other than the wife of the little Frenchman ; — and whilst he was gloriously participating in the joyous revelry, she was standing as a silent spectator, assuming a deserted and soli- citous aspect, apprehensive, no doubt, of her husband's safety among such a romantic assemblage of English- men. At length, "little Napoleon" became three- fourths intoxicated, and it was then proposed that he should get a decent removal to bed ; in accordance therewith, they stript off his outer garb, and saddled him with a prodigious overcoat, and slipped him into a pair of long Wellington boots, — the whole of which gave him an antique and grotesque appearance. His wife eyeing the proceedings, and being suspicious of foul play, sprang wildly forward, shrieking vociferously, and throwing her arms lovingly around her husband with excited feelings, she exclaimed : " 0, mon cher mariy sHis te tuent je mourrai avec toL you Hunglis- mans bad mans — you verra bad mans pour kill my mans ; mon cher mari .'" One of the party who could speak French, intimated that they had no inten- tion of injuring her husband, but would put him to bed immediately; whereupon she cooled down considerably, and he was instantly carried to bed in full dress, and the glorious revelry was resumed. She, however, remained on watch, feeling apprehensive of danger to her husband if she retired. About an hour after this afiair, the Frenchman somehow got out of bed and Staggered into the hall, bent double, with one hand 152 SKETCHES OF A TOUB placed over or rather below his stomach, apparently suffering from a spasmodic attack of the gripes, and bawling out : " Oh, mon spouse ; 0, seeourez moiy je me meurs, je me meurs /*' The whole party was again thrown into convulsive laughter by his singular atti- tude and appearance, but his wife again rushed for- ward to tender him assistance. A tumbler of hot brandy and pepper alleviated his sufferings consider- ably, and he was again placed in bed. About two o'clock in the morning the remaining party retired to their berths, and silence in general prevailed, with the exception of some loud snoring. About an hour after- wards the Frenchman was again awakened by a return of his internal pangs, and he began moaning as if suf- fering from intense agony, occasionally exclaiming — Oh ! mon Spouse ; Oh I seeourez moi I His wife, who was still awake, on hearing his well-known voice, be- came alarmed, and therewith slipped quietly into the apartment to ascertain the matter, and if possible alleviate his sufferings. Having stayed a few mo- ments, she hastened back to the ladies apartment, wakened up the stewardess, and from her procured a dishful of mustard, and having placed a thick plaster of it over a cloth, she quietly returned. The apart- ment being dark, and the noise of her husband having ceased for the time being, she groped her way to his berth, as she supposed, but committed a serious error in taking the next, in which one of the Englishmen lay stretched. Believing him to be her husband she re- moved the clothes and placed the prodigious plaster at full length over what she supposed to be the affected FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 153 part. Having adjusted everything nicely, she was about to retire, when the Englishman, beginning to feel the stimulating virtue of the mustard, stirred round a little, uttering a few slumbering ejaculations, which were succeeded by a series of vociferous roars, at the game instant startling up wildly from his couch. Such a tremendous outburst of noise aroused every inmate from slumber, awakening up also the little Frenchman, who began to bawl out most tremendously. The poor woman on discovering her mistake, fled from the apartment, leaving the blistered and bewildered Eng- lishman, who was shoutmg at the top of his voice : — " murder ! murder 1 murder !'* All who were able jumped out of their berths and rushed forward to his assistance and ascertain the matter. The steward, awakened also from his couch, rushed inward with afright, demanding to know what had happened. ** A man is murdered !'* cried one. " 'Tis the night-mare he's been riding," shouted another, &c., &c. A lamp was immediately lighted, and the Englishman was discovered crouched up in a corner, holding both hands over the affected part, apparently in intense agony. " What in the name of goodness is the matter with you?" interrogated the steward, whilst every one around stood gazing at the bewildered man with ghast- ly and benighted horror. " Don't know, sir, only a blood vessel, I believe, has burst somewhere about me," said the Englishman. " Well, what do you suf- fer from ?" asked the steward. " Oh my goodness!" exclaimed the other, " I believe that I'm all on fire inside j bring me water or I'll be burnt alive." " 'Tis 154 SKETCHES OF A TOUR tho gripes he's got," cried one. " Then ^ve him the Frenchman's dose," shouted another. " To bed wi^h you, you drunken scoundrel !" wrathfully exclaimed the steward. "There's nothing the matter with you, only you've ballasted yourself too much with drink last night, and no wonder than you feel the torments of the d 's fire." At this moment one of the Eng- lishmen, a doctor by profession, stept forward, examin- ed the fellow's pulse, and, after a few other examina- tions, discovered the spot. The afflicted parts were uncovered, and lo ! to the astonishment of every eager spectator, a prodigious plaster of mustard, an inch thick, was found to be over them, which proved to be the cause of the whole uproar. To every one present, it was really an amusing incident, and therewith elicit- ed a tremendous roar of laughter and other outbursts of excited feelings. But who the perpetrator of the outrageous insult was, remained for the time being a mystery to them. The Englishman, after swearing out a volume of his irritated feelings, retired again to his couch, and after a few minutes, order and quiet- ness were restored, and without further disturbance, all were permitted to sleep out th e remaining portion of that night. Early on the following morning when on going upon deck, I got a sight, for the first time, of la terre de la France^ and at 6 a.m., the steamer landed at the port of Bologne. Among the first ob jects that attracted my attention was a company of about twenty persons coming towards the wharf with wheelbarrows and hand-carts. From their singular appearance, I could not determiue their occupation, FROM CANADA TO PABIS. 155 nor to what sex they belonged. At first I imagmed them to be monks or a class of nuns, and then sup- posed them to be custom house officers ; but on their near approach I discovered them to be old women whose occupation was in attending upon passengers at steamer and railway stations, carrying baggage to and from the town. Their dress consisted of a short petticoat and jacket of a coarse texture of homespun. Their head-covering consisted of a piece of white linen, in the shape of a night cap, of enormous size, surrounded and surmounted by a number of ruffles, and having a frizzled cape attached to the anterior, the whole of which gave them a somewhat antique and peculiarly strange appearance. The first train for Paris was to leave in half an hour, — the next, at noon : wishing to see the town I remained, with several of the English excursionists until the latter train ; and during the interval, we strolled over a considerable portion of Bologne. This town borders upon the British Channel, and presents a pleasant and lively aspect. The exterior of the houses is of a light colour, and look neatly in form and cleanly in appearance ; in fact everything, even the very streets, are remarkably clean. The people them* selves are characterized by a free and easy, lively genteel aspect, all of which were ia striking contrast with what I had seen in towns of the British Isles. The population is over 40,000. In the hotels the Eng- lish language is spoken, and some of the English cus- toms have been adopted. The old town is situated on a chff behind the port, and is surmounted b^ a splendid 156 SKETOHES OF A TOUR Cathedral, having a dome 300 feet high. The inter- ior is richly decorated with frescoes and inscriptions ; underneath is a crypt of an ancient date. Around the old town the walls and ramparts with their old gates still remain. Adjacent thereto is a column 164 feet high, erected to commemorate the preparations made for the invasion of England by Nap'>leon I. In com- pany with the Englishmen I took train at noon, and proceeded en route for Paris. The passenger trains were similar to those used in Britain, and we were all celled in like a company of criminals. The railway consisted of a double track, and appeared to be kept in excellent condition, — the average speed was about 35 miles per hour. The country through which we passed was comparatively level ; in many places, ex- tremely low and marshy. In such parts, peat-making was carried on extensively. Peat is the principal fuel used in France. Even midst those low grounds I ob- served some of the richest and most beautiful gardens I had ever seen. The gardens were intersected with numerous ditches, or rather, small canals, half filled with water ; the grounds had apparently been raised by the excavations, manure, &c. All sorts of veget- ables of immense growth were to be seen growing thereon ; while some parts were tastefully decorated with flowers, &c. It was quite a romantic and novel sight to see, perhaps, an old woman with short petti- coat, jacket, and white ruffled cap, and large wooden shoes, paddling her small canoe along the narrow canals, from one part of her garden to another, taking an ample survey of the whole', In almost every gar- pyi;! iswi, .tiiiffluimii VROM CANADA TO PARIS. 157 den a person of such a description was to be seen, either sailing along the intersecting cuts, or perhaps, hoeing, watering, or weeding her " belle Jardin,^^ in which the very essence of her soul appeared to be the inspiratory life thereof. The surface of the country in some parts was undulating, in general diversified with trees, chiefly of the willow, poplar, &c. The higher grounds generally presented a bare-like, chalky appear- ance, but no stones were visible anywhere — the houses in general were small and composed of brick and wood, the whole beautifully lime-washed. In form they resembled those of our French Canadians and pre- sented a cheerful and cleanly appearance. The country appeared more densely populated than in Britain ; at least, the land seemed to be occupied by a greater number of agriculturists, and had more of the appear- ance of our Canadian system than that of the aristo- cratic monoply of Great Britain. The system of farm- ing, however, appeared to be behind the age, and re- sembled that which is still to be seen in some of our French Canadian settlements. I observed summer fal- lowing being performed by ploughs set on wheels, and the horses going at tandem. The tillage seemed to be but superficial, and the furrows appeared as if the eyes of the ploughman had been disjointed in their sockets. The gardens were, however, systematically laid out and well cultivated ; — and everything connected with the homestead had a cleanly, well-finished appearance. The grain was being harvested at the time ; — men and women, with scythe and sickle, were busily at work, whilst occasionally was seen an old farmer on his 168 sictTdtiEs or A i!OV^ hay cart, his horses trottino; along at tandem — the whole having a striking aspect to that of Lower Ca nada. The implements had an uncouthly, rude, old fashioned appearance. Scythe handles for instance, were only long, straight sticks, with one nub, and hav- ing a weight fastened to the high upper extremity, so as to counterbalance the heavy scythe attached to the other end, and to give a proper adjustment to the whole, which reminded me of a person trying to swim with ballast stones fastened to his legs to prevent him from keeling over. Carts were universally used The horses resembled our Canadian ponies, but in gen- eral taller, and of a very active appearance ; — no doubt there is a kindred relationship between them, as the sires of our Canadian stock came originally from France, in the 17th century. Homed cattle also, appeared smaller, and more lively than those in Bri- tain — in fact, the very people had also a happy con- tended-like, lively aspect, and resembling our Canadian French in almost every characteristic. The women, including young girls, were generally attired in petti- coats, jacket and ruiffled cap. In the fields, at the station-houses, in the cars — and in fact, everywhere, was to be seen that ever present and universal head- appendage ; many of which were beautifully bleached, frizzled and finished off, and looking as curly and spruce-like as a Scotch cabbage. On the route we passed through some beautiful towns and villages. At the station of Criel one of the Englishmen was ap- pointed to go out and procure at the saloon 6 bottles of wine for the company. On returning to the train, f BOIC OAKADA TO PA&IS. 159 it was beginning to move off, and in the hurry he committed a serious mistake by forcing his w^ into a private apartment filled with nuns. His unexpected and abrupt appearance, with six bottles of wine piled over one arm, produced at first quite a sensation among them — while he, himself, was almost paralyzed with bewildered astonishment. He had rendered himself liable to a severe penalty, but it was then too late to rectify his position with safety. The " Sisters of Mtrcy^'* however, on discovering it to be a mistake, very kindlj indeed furnished him with a seat until the next stopping place. He very fortunately escaped the notice of the conductor, but not the attention of his companions. This mistake afterwards afforded them a subject for wit and humor, and created a no small amount of amusement. At the town of Lille we dis- mounted, got refreshments at the " Buffet^^ or eating rooms at the station, thence took a hurried stroll over a part of the town, and then took the next train on our journey. lAlle is a finely situated town, and comprises many beautiful and interesting buildings. It contains 132,000 inhabitants, is the seat of an important linen manufacture, and is strongly garrison- ed ; the fortifications contain 900 cannon, and are tpabxc jf holding 2000. In the evening we arrived at Amiens^ where we intended to remain until the fol- io^- ing uay. This city contains 59,000 population. I . consists of two parts, and is intersected by the river Somme, The k ver town has a singular appearance from the multiplicity of its canals. The most striking object connected with the place is the cathedral, on9 ti,.* M r«vi 160 SKETCHES OF A TOVa of the noblest in Europe, and built in ^he ISth century, It contains 116 stalls — the wood-work of which is map* \ 164 SKETCHES OF A TOUR then drawing out his coteau, he cut one of them up into pieces 6 inches long, and placed them on the tahle as a part of our breakfast. True enough, it waS only the " bread-tree," for on further examination we discovered them to be rolls of bread baked in that fashion, which is now becoming fashionable in Paris. They are not sold by weight but by measure ; so in- stead of asking for a 3 lb loaf it is necessary to ask for a 3 feet one, in order to be understood. The dining- hall contained a number of small, round tables for 4 persons each. The system of dieting was similar to that in Britain ; but the food was of a more flimsy nature, every article had its stated price, and the charge comprised only that which was ordered. Not- withstanding the great influx of strangers, charges were comparatively moderate in Paris ; no doubt the result of an immense competition. It was, however, necessary to ascertain the rate of fare and lodging, otherwise the charge might be considerably augmented. After breakfast the doctor proposed that he and I should go and visit some of the churches that day, it being the Sabbath. We strolled forth into the midst of the great city ; thousands of people were astir, and numerous carriages were speeding to and fro. The morning sun was shining gloriously with golden hues, amidst a pellucid sky, the air, warm and genial, and bearing upon its gentle wings, as it were, the incense of a thou- sand flowers ; all were beautiful and bright, and of a cheerful and animated appearance. The fancy was delighted, and every feeling ready to burst forth in raptures of exultation ; what magnificent streets and ..^..^l^-mrS:' ' mtm FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 165 majestic buildings, everywhere decorated with lovely trees ! what spacious avenues ! what paradisal groves and parterres of Elysian loveliness, embellished with fountains, statues, and monuments ; wonderfully beau- tiful in all. Dormant must be the feelings of that soul, in the midst of such a delightful scene, that would not exclaim, Paris, the city of the world. The poetic embodiment of beauti/, fashion, luxury and plea- sure. The Elysium of Terrestrial Glory. Hav- ing strolled about for some time, we entered the Made LINE. This edifice, during the time of Napoleon I. was delicated to hero-worship, but afterwards res- tored to its original purpose, and re-consecrated as a church. In exterior it resembles a Greek Temple, and is upwards of 400 feet in* length. It rests upon a pedestal, 12 feet high, and is surrounded by 52 Corinthian columns each 49 feet in height, and 16 in circumference, which support the basement of the roof, the whole of which is of white marble. In the front are a beautiful freize and pediment with figures in alto-relievo. The entablature and ceiling of the colonnade are also richly sculptured; Statues of the favourite saints of France are placed in niches along the walls. The interior is spacious, richly deco- rated with gilding, statues and paintings, and is lighted by 3 cupolas from above. The high-altar is a finished piece of elaborate workmanship. At the time we en- tered, service was being conducted, and throngs of people were entering and retiring incessantly. We remained but a short time and thence directed our course to the Pantheon. This church is also beauti- 166 SKETCHES OP A TOUR fully constructed and richly decorated. It Is of a cru- ciform shape, and from the centre of the cross springs a lofty circular drum, surrounded by a peristyle of 32 columns. Above towers a magnificient dome, 22 columns, 60 feet high from the portico, and support a pediment 130 feet wide by 24 high. The sculpture thereon represents the genius of the Country assisted by Freedom and History^ as distributing rewards to Talent, Valour and Virtue, among which are the figures of Voltaire, Rousseau, Lafayette, Mirabeau, Napoleon and others. The interior is elegant and richly decor- ated. In the crypt underneath are the tombs of Vol- taire, Rousseau, &c. In 1848 the insurgents concen- trated within this church, and during 2 days repulsed the attacks made by the troops. After a brief stay, we left, and soon found ourselves in the presence of the great Cathedral of Notre Dame. This church is situated on the lie de Paris, an islet in the river Seine, and is considered as one of the finest specimens extant of Gothic architecture. It dates from 1163, and its erection was the uninterrupted work of 300 years. Its shape is that of a cruciform, with an octa- gonal east end. The finest part of the building is the west front, with its extensive and beautiful rose window, its elegant open gallery, its profusion of elaborate chisel work, and its two flanking towers, massive, yet elegant. The flying buttresses at the sides are also remarkable, and enhance the general picturesque effect. The towers are 200 feet high. Between the transepts the spire shoots up to a height of 160 feet above the roof, and from its delicate tracery, presents a most splendid PROM CANADA TO PARIS. 167 appearance. The interior consists of a choir and nave, with double aisles and side chapels. Its length is 410 feet, breadth 160 ; and from the floor to the vaulting of the roof, 110 feet. It contains 113 windows and 297 columns. The chief objects in the choir are the statues of bronze and marble, the two archiepisco- pal thrones, the marvellously carved wood work, the richly gilt gates, and above all, the superbly magnifi- cent altar. There are a number of statues, monuments and tablets to noted persons in other parts of the inte- rior. A stairway of 868 steps gives access to the towers, where may be seen the largest bell in France. It weighs 16 tons, and the hammer 1120 lbs. Inde- pendent of its magnificent architecture, Notre Dame is pregnant with historical associations. Within its walls Napoleon I. was crowned, and there, also, the marriage of Napoleon III. took place. We entered Notre Dame in time to hear the closing part of the forenoon service ; a vast concourse was present. In neither of the churches we visited were to be seen that order and attention generally to be found in Roman Catholic Churches in Canada ; but this may be partly accounted for by the number of visitors who were present. Com- paratively, there were few seats, and these were railed in and for members only. The majority of the spec- tators, therefore, had to stand ; many of them, how- ever, were to be seen moving quietly to and fro along the side aisles examining some of the interesting ob- jects. We remained until after divine seiTice, and spent considerable time in viewing the interior and 168 SttETOMES Ot* A I^OtTA other interesting characteristics connected with the magnificent Cathedral of Notre Dame. During the afternoon we visited a few other churches, all of which were exceedingly magnificent and deeply interesting, either on account of their architectural effect or historical associations. Space forbids a ge- neral description ; I will, however, give a short sketch of Sainte Chapel, which is considered as one of the wonders of Paris. This church was founded in 1245, by St. Louis, for the reception of the " Crown of Thorns " and other reputed relics of The Saviour, The most remarkable feature of the exterior is the golden spire, 114 feet in height from the roof. Its de- licate tracery and elaborate workmanship give to it a wonderful and attractive appearance. The interior contains an upper and lower chapel. A spiral staircase leads to the former, which at first sight is sufficient to dazzle the eye with the profusion and brilliancy of its decorations. . The ceiling is of azure blue bespangled with stars, and the walls are interspersed with golden fleurS'de-lk, The windows are of magnificently painted glass, each containing a number of scriptural texts ; there are also numerous other pamtings, and attractive and interesting objects. Royal marriages and corona- tions used to take place within this chapel ; and m other respects, it is connected with many incidents and associations of the past. Besides the 70 Roman Catholic churches in Paris, there are some Protestant meeting- houses, and a couple of synagogues. In the evening we returned to our lodgings, tired with the exercise of the day. On retiring to sleep I felt, however, that my con- rftoif OANADa to ^ARtS. 16d science had become awakened to the reality of having so carelessly spent the Sabbath. True, I had passed the greater portion of the day in churches ; but like Zaccheus of old I was attracted thither by curiosity rather than from a desire to worship my Saviour. It has been fre- quently said " There is no Sabbath in Paris^^^and. should I infer from the general aspect I would corroborate the assertion, in so far as the observance is concerned. Everywhere in that great city were to be seen throngs of people buzzing to and fro in the revelry of pleasure. Shops, cafi^s, and public places of amusement were open ; thousands of ladies and gentlemen sitting on the side-streets, sipping champagne and porter, and perhaps discussing the merits of horse steak. Myriads of chariots on the wheels of pleasure, moving in every direction. Everywhere the din of business was to be heard. Men were pursuing their daily avocations, whilst the buzz of immense multitudes was issuing from inside the walls of the Great Exhibition,'^ Yet no drunken person, no riotous mobs, no disorder or discor- dant sounds were to be seen or heard ; it was the poetic harmony of PZM *The Exhibition was open to vieitors on Sabbath, with the ex- ception of the English and American Departments. ltd SKETOHES OF A TOUE LI VOX Dei !" may sound beautifully upon the eara of Infidelity, and lull the conscience to repose ; but the thunders of God's voice will some day awaken up those sinners to the terrible reality of their condition. Men may go on desecrating the Sabbath, and even blot out that day, as a nominal figure, from the deca- logue ; but the Sabbath in reality, like the soul, cannot be annihilated. Its origin is of God, and though sinners may revel in the desecration thereof, it is ne- vertheless, sacred and universal, and in the order of Creation, shall eternally remain as the - sanctified Sabbath op the Lord. Before proceeding to particularize, I will now briefly notice a few general characteristics connected with Paris. The city is situated in the hollow of a circle of low hills, interested by the river Seine, 200 feet above sea-level, and ff N. lat. It was originally called LuTETiA, was inhabited by a tribe of Gauls named Parii, who after a fierce struggle submitted to the Dominion of Rome. After the introduction of Christianity, Lutotia received the name of Paris after its original inhabitants. From an obscure origin, it gra- dually increased in size and importance, but not with- out many changes of government, until at length, it rose to be an important place. Churches, colleges and hospitals were founded, and as a Seat of Learning it became distinguished throughout Europe. During the last two centuries Paris has undergone many changes in appearance. Old buildings have been torn down and magnificent edifices erected instead. New streets have been formed,squares opened, trees planted, BBS^-iJOmmSUSBi-'iitAmm ^. ftiigl •». FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 171 and also many other improvements. But during the terrible days of the " Great Revolutions^ there was no time to build or even repair. Napoleon, however, came to restore and to extend ; and during 12 years as consul and emperor, he spent nearly $20,000,000 in the improvement of Paris. The river was spanned with new bridges, and lined with commodious quays ; immense and magnificent public buildings were erected, with numerous other works of utility or embellishment. But the present emperor has indelibly and honourably inscribed his name on modern Paris— immensely won- derful are the improvements he has already effected. Independent of public edifices he has opened up, at vast expense, a number of magnificent boulevards^ while open squares, gardens, fountains, monuments, &c., have been profusely scattered throughout the city. Paris was originally fortified with walls, and in the beginning of the 15th century was held by an English garrison for 7 yeare. It now covers an area of 50,000 acres, with a circumference of 25 miles. There are over T0,000 houses, and the population approximates 2,000,- 000. Paris is beyond all doubt the most remarkable city in the world, for the magnificence of its street architecture, the. variety and interest of its public monuments, &c., the display of wealth and taste in its shops, which of themselves are princely palaces ; the singular gaity and liveliness of its inhabitants, and its inexhaustible resources in all that belong to the amuse- ments and pleasures of civilized and fashionable society. In real business and commerce it is inferior to London; its intellectual resources are, however, immense ; its f.,M ^^ mm 172 BttBTOHES OF A TOtTft museums are rich and magnificent ; its squares and public gardens are admirably laid out ; its places of public entertainment exceedingly numerous, and gene- rally well conducted ; its streets and boulevards are so full of caf^s, and the caf^s and streets so full of people, that one might imagine that the whole life of Paris is spent in those places. The Boulevards are the great arteries and thoroughfares in which is the principal circulation of life, surrounded by the bril- liancy of magnificence, and the luxury of wealth. Paris is indeed the heart and soul of France, and the head- quarters of European luxury and pleasure. It natu- rally excites in the highest degree the interest and curiosity of strangers, while those who know it, are conformed in their attachment by the variety and freshness of its charms. On Monday morning I was again awakened by the tread of horses and foot-soldiers taking their usual exercise. Desirous of having a more general view of Paris before entering the Exhibition, the Doctor and I, after breakfast, strolled off on our perambulation. Being strikingly impressed by the sight of so brilliant an army of men, we purposed visiting first the Ecole- MiLiTAiRE, now one of the chief barracks in Paris. This immense and magnificent structure was founded by Louis XV., as a school for the sons of officers killed in battle. Subsequently it was converted into bar- racks, and afterwards used as head quarters of Napo- leon I. It has accommodation for 10,000 men, and 800 horses. Everything connected with the interior has a cleanly appearance, and the management of ^ FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 173 affairs and the conduct of the soldiers are apparently of an orderly and agreeable character. It is situated at the upper part of the Champ-de-Mars, now occu- pied by the Exhibition buildings, &c. We next visited the Hotel des Invalids, This edifice was founded by Louis XIV. as an asylum for invalid soldiers. In front is a beautiful floral garden ; also, a spacious esplanade, bordering on the Seine, and containing several pieces of ordnance taken in battle. The building is of rect- angular form, with five courts of the same shape. The fa9ade is 612 feet long, and is profusely decorated with military emblems. Bronze figures of conquered nations crown the pavillion, and a bass-relief of Louis XIV. on horseback, surmounts the grand entrance to the great court. The interior has an extensive accommodation. There are two kitchens, in one of which, food for 6000 men can be cooked daily. Also 4 dining-halls, each 150 by 24 feet. The inmates wear a long dark-blue coat, with cocked hat and sabre ; among them, a few of the old sol- diers of Napoleon I. were pointed out to us. Out of that once magnificent army of the Qreat Warrior, only the small number of 40 remain, though old and dilapidated in appearance, still they retain the impres- sion of that martial glory that once distinguished them in the battle-field, and which carries the mind back to the wonderful achievements of the Great Napoleonic Era. The Hospital department is commodious and well attended to ; the Library contams 30,000 volumes. Some of the walls are decorated with frescoes, gener- ally representmg the battles of Napoleon I. and his h ■ ■ 'I'll -I 174 SKETCHES OF A TOUR noted generals ; but among none could wo discover the representation of Waterloo, " Well/' said I, " Doc- tor, how is it that Waterloo is not included." " Oh, well, I suppose,'* said he, shrugging up his shoulders, with a sarcastic smile — '^ the French lost too much of their best blood there to have it represented by Water- loo-colours.^^ " But they did'nt lose their honour as a great nation," said I. " Perhaps not," exclaimed the Doctor smiling another sarcastic grin, — ** but the Uar/k was there decapitated by the Lion's whelp^ and also lost some of its finest feathers, which the French attri- buted to fowl play, — therefore it would be impolitic to represent a multilated/ow'Z ; it would be only a carica- ture upon fallen greatness and dilapidated glory." At this moment one of the officers came gliding along. The Doctor eyeing him, very politely gave him the military bow, which was respectfully returned. " That's a general, sir," said the Doctor after he had passed, ** French generals are generally polite, I must really admit that the French people, like their generals^ are in general manly and manneristic, and exceedingly polite even to an Englishmany Wo then moved into the chapel ; the interior of which is studded with numerous monuments to distin- guished warriors; suspended from the galleries arc several hundred flags, taken in battle ; nearly all of them were sadly multilated, many torn into shreds by the bullets of the battle-field. The Dome des Invalids is also a part of the building. It is a bold and pro- minent structure, profusely, decorated. The dome FHOM CANADA TO PARIS. 175 rises from a square pedestal of ♦^wo storeys to the height of 324 feet from the ground. Underneath is the crypt containing the tomb or sarcophagus of Napoleon I. It stands in the centre of the crypt, is composed of reddish-brown granite brought from Finland, and weighs 135,000 lbs. Over the door, in French, is the expression uttered by Napoleon on his death-bed. " I desire that my ashes may repose on the hanks of the Seine, in the midst of that people of France whom I have loved so much,'* The walls of the crypt are also of polished granite ; around the bottom is a covered gallery adorned with bass-reliefs, and supported by 13 colossal figures. On the walls are inscribed the names of Napoleon's chief victories. There are also to be seen the tombs of Duroc and Bertrand, faithful friends of Napoleon. In a small enclosure are to be seen the sword and hat worn by Napoleon at the battle of Austerlitz, also, the golden crown presented to him by the town of Cherbourg, — and 60 flags taken from the enemy. The interior of the building is of the form of a. G ceek cross, with several chapels beautifully ornaracnted, and contain- ing the tombs of distinguished warriors. Gold and colours are lavished on the various altars and the ceil- ing — and a singular effect is produced by the trans- mission of Ught through stained glass, — taken as a whole, it is richly magnificent and most solemnly impres- sive in appearance. The interior was crowded with visitors, and on entering every head was uncovered, out of respect to the memory of the Great Napoleon, and a serious-like expression, like the solemnity of ; ,-;k ' ••"1 r ^ . '* • I'M ';^i ,.,|j v1 176 SKETCHES OF A TOUR death, sat upon the countenance of all present. There, in the silence of death, reposed the ashes of the Great Warrior of the World, who, like Alexender the Great, to gratify an insatiable ambition of glorj, sacrificed the lives of millions of men, — trod through oceans of human blood, — shook thrones and dynasties to their foundations — and sowed broad-cast over the land, the seeds of suffering, sorrow and desolation. The per- manent garrison of Paris numbers 30,000 ; and the Imperial yuard, 20,000 picked men. There are also several regiments of Zouaves, who, from their singular style of loose dress, present a somewhat Arabic ex- pression. The soldiers in general are richly attired in gaudy colours, some of whom have a somewhat fan- tastic appearance ; indeed, it is somewhat difficult to distinguish privates from officers, on account of such rich display of costumes and other embellishments. The step of the French soldier is light and easy, the carriage genteel, manly and dignified, and without that stiffness and solidity which characterize the Bri- tish soldier. In walking along the streets of Paris, a stranger is really astonished by the vast numbers of soldiers that are constantly to be seen everywhere, and the eye is continually attracted by the splendour and variety of their costumes. Leaving the Dome des Invalids, we pressed over the Seine to the Place de la Concorde, — an immense and magnificent square, admitted to be one of the finest in Europe. It hes between the Champs ElysSe% and the Gardens of the Tailleries. It was laid out by Louis XV., but its as- pect has been greatly improved since. In the centre rji^.^firi*..*****" PitOM CANADA TO PARIS. in Stands tlie obelisk of Luxor, brought from Egypt and erected at a cost of f 180,000. It is a monolith of granite, 75 feet high and covered with hieroglyphics. The square contains also some beautiful fountains, chiefly of iron coated with bronze, — the basin of one, \s of polished stone, and 50 feet in diameter. The square is otherwise splendidly uocorated. Light thrones, supporting typical figures of the chief cities of the Empire, surround it. There are also some very spirited equestrian group-. In the centre of this square, during the time of the Revolution, the guillo- tine was erected, and thousands of the citizens were beheaded, among whom were Louis XVI., Charlotte Cordon, Dan^^'^ and Robespierre. Paris contains numerous squ»i s, or open spaces, and nearly all are decorated with trees, statues, fountains, obelisks, or some other beautiful architectural construction. Most of these squares are centres whence important streets radiate, and many recall interesting events in the history of Paris. Among the numerous and mag- nificent monuments in the city, the Colonne Vendome is, I think, one of the most remarkable. It was con- structed out of 1200 pieces of artillery taken from the Austrians by Napoleon I ; the spiral scroll of bass-re- liefs contains 2000 figures, representing various inci- dents, &c., of victories achieved by Napoleon I. From the Place de la Concorde we entered the grove, or what is generally called the Gardens of the TuillerieB. The sun by this time had arisen to the zenith ; the sky was clear and beautifully serene^ tl.^ ;»;!:) m ■'Am 4 178 SKETCHES 01* A TOttB air genial and balmy, the verdant* foliage was radiant, and even the very flowers were smiling with the glo- rious sunshine. All was delightful and enchanting, and the gardens seemed as if smiling in the bloom of Eden ! What a magnificent retreat in the midst of a great city ! how refreshing to the wearied traveller ! how fascinating to the lover of nature, and how salu- tary to the physical condition of a densely-populated metropolis ! The Gardens occupy an area of 60 acres, a considerable portion of which is planted with trees, among which I noticed several of the orange species, said to be upwards of 300 years old. The surface of the grounds is comparatively level, and rendered hard and exceedingly smooth by a composi- tion of cement, similar to that which compose the street-ways. The flower-beds are admirably laid out, and pleasingly intermingled with fountains and statues. Numerous seats are scattered throughout, and hundreds of people were to be seen either sitting or walking about, or sipping wine under the verandah of small cafds within the grove. In the evenings the gardens are brilliantly lighted up, and bands of music enliven the thousands of people who congregate therein. The grove is skirted by the river on one side, on the other by the Itue de Hivoli, one of the finest streets in Paris, and over two miles in length ; while, at the upper end, stand the magnificent buildings of the Tuilleries, the palace and residence of Napoleon III. Having taken some refreshments, the Doctor and I went over to see the royal buildings ; but I don't mean hj this that we had purposed visitmg Napoleon, or to , , -^ , : ,^ >=:^L,iM!ki 1 1 III tfitiiiiilllMllii'li W FBOM CANADA TO PARIS. 179 shout " Vive V Empereur ;'*^ we simply visited only those apartments then open to visitors. The Tuilleriei were commenced in 1564 by Catherine de Medicis ; but new additions were constructed duri»ig the reign of several monarchs. They are now connected with the Louvre, an ancient but noble edifice. The two are connected by wings, and form a magnificent square inside, a part of which is called the Place de la Car- ousal. The combined palaces, with the court, occupy nearly 60 acres of ground. As a whole, they pre- sent a massive and magnificent appearance, and con- stitute an imperial mansion unequalled by any in the world. The Louvre has been used as a palace from the earliest date. The exterior is very striking ; the walls are richly decorated, and contain statues of both literary and military men of France. The interior is now chiefly occupied by fifteen different museums ; a portion of the basement is used for the royal stables the carriage-room contains over 100 vehicles of various kinds, anioi*^ ^hich is the state carriage, which weighs over six tons. In the court, opposite the central pavillion, stands the Arc de Trioinphe^ erected by Na- poleon I. in glory to the French armies, at a cost of iii280,000. It measures 60 by 20 feet at the base, and 45 in height, and is covered with numerous figures and inscriptions commemorative of victories. On the top is a group of bronze, representing a tri- umphal car, drawn by four horses, driven by Victory. A co«ple of mounted dragoons were stationed at the base, and the imperial standard wag waving on the cop, which indicated that the Emperor waa at home, an^ 'iiii ii! 180 SKE'tOfiES OF A TOTTR that it was then useless to apply for access to the royal apartments of the Tuilleries, The museums of the Louvre are always closed on Mondays, therefore we had no opportunity of seeing them until the following day. We retired to the hotel for tea, at six, and at seven started out again, and attended a magnificent open-air concert, in an encloaure in the Champs Ely- 8^68 : the performers numbered about 100 ; from the surrotiTjling trees innumerable globes of light, of varied colours, were suspended — the whole of which impressed the fancy with a resemblance of fairy land ; in fact, the whole of the Champs Elys^es presented a most enchanting aspect : persons of all ages, grades and sizes, were revelling joyously amid the groves. Hun- dreds of chariots were moving to and fro along the ave- nues, their lights sparkling like glowing stars, and per- forming their fantastic motions hke the fairy-figures of some Apocalyptic fireworks. We retired at eleven. Avvoke next morning at five, as usual, and at seven, started oif to get a day-light view of the Champs Ely- sSes, These delightful grounds are studded, in part, with beautiful trees, and extend from the Place de la Concorde to the Triumphal Arch, one and a half miles. Through the whole length extensive avenues, formed by beautiful trees, constitute promenades and pleasure- riding walks. Between four and six in the afternoon, these avenues are thronged with brilliant equipages and fashionable equestrians, which afford a ntranger a good opportunity of seeing the notabilities of Paj'is. The Emperor and Empress frequently ride along these avenues in their ponyoarriage, and on one occasion I fflii«jp»jjpjg»25. FHOM CANADA TO PARIS. 181 had the pleasure of seeing them. He appeared to be tall, and somewhat spare ; his bearing full of dignity and easy self-possession, with an unbending will stamp- ed upon his face ; hair and whiskers of a lightish colour ; and although only about 49 years of age, he appeared to be much older. Numerous fountains are intersper- sed throughout the Champs Mt/aSes ; some parts richly decorated with floral plots ; and among the trees are numbers of /)e^i^8 - FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 185 quires considerable artistic skill. A single piece of tapestrj frequently takes from two to six years in com- pleting it, and costs from 12,000 to |8,000. The larger pieces require the labour of ten to twelve years, the material and workmanship averaging in value from $25,000 to f30,000. One of the largest carpets woven there, now in the gallery of the Louvre, mea- sures 1300 feet in length. The Gobelin carpets in three of the rooms of the Tuilleries are said to have cost $200,000. The delicacy and finish with which the finest paintings are imitated in the carpets and tapestry manufactured there are exceedingly beautiful. None of the productions are sold. They are either used in the decoration of the Imperial Palaces or pre- sented to sovereigns or museums of other countries. We also made a short stay at the Hotel Dieu, the oldest hospital in France, founded in the 12th century* It contains upwards of 1000 beds, and receives annually 13,000 patients. Paris has numerous establishments of all kinds for the reception and relief of the young, the aged, the sick, and the impoverished ; nor does the benevolence of the people deem the brute creation beneath notice, for there are asylums for dogs that are apparently homeless or lost ; every stray dog on the streets is taken to this asylum, and if no person claims it before a stated time, it is sold; many of them are bought by butchers and converted into sausages, &c., for the poorer class. We visited, that day, the largest of the asylums, called the Salpetriere, It comprises 45 different buildings, which cover nearly 80 acres of ground. It contained about 5000 in- i< ^k\ ■ 1^' Pi im IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) '' :\ \ 6^ <^ 'it' #? "^ ///// i \ I 186 SKETCHES OF A TOUB mates, all women, of whom 1500 were insane. Re- turning to the hotel in the evening, wearied and exhausted, we resolved to remain in-doors, and there- fore retired early. During the next day we visited three of the principal cemeteries connected with the city. Paris is indeed remarkable for its burial places. They are generally decorated with tombstones, monu- ments, trees, flowers, and shrubbery, resembling magnificent gardens, and, on the whole, are resorts of considerable interest. The chief cemetery is the Pere-U' Chaise, It comprises 200 acres, and within the present century over 200,000 bodies have been interred therein. It contains 15,000 tombs and 3000 monuments, many of which are of a magnificent character. It is a kind of park, intersected with beautiful walks, planted with shrubs and trees, and decorated with flowers of almost every variety. It is indeed a perfect Elysium for the dead, and should the thousands of bodies reposing therein be ever star- tled up into a rectified existence, they would very likely suppose themselves to be then in Paradise. Many highly distinguished persons lie there, among whom, is Cuvier, Mbliere, Marshal Ney^ Sydney Smith, Maeine, LaFontaine, and B6ranger, Mont Pamasse cemetery occupies an area of 38 acres. From the name, a person might imagine it to be an Elysium of the Muses, Although not picturesque, it has some fine avenues, and comparatively few in- terestingly attractive monuments. Mont MaHre ce- metery comprises 31 acres, and presents a somewhat picturesque aspect ; some very noted persons are in- FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 187 terred therein. Besides these, there are twelve minor cemeteries belonging to Paris ; also, the Catacombs, which are immense subterranean depositories of the dead. They have been formed from exhausted quar- ries, from the material of which a great portion of the buildings of Paris have been constructed. They were appropriated in 1784 to the reception of the dead from the cemeteries of the Innocents and others, about to be converted into public purposes. The remains of no less than 3,000,000 persons have been deposited therein. The skulls and bones are built into the walls of the subterranean passages, with inscriptions stating the place whence they were removed. It is indeed a perfect Grolgotha, and is impregnated with all the horrors and realities of death. It extends underneath a portion of the city ; but no person is allowed to enter therein without a guide ; otherwise, visitors might lose themselves forever among those labyrinths of the dead. Paris is famed both for the abundance and excellence of its dramatic entertainments ; and there are few cities apparently where the dance has so many votaries. Desirous of seeing the Parisian style of the theatre, the Doctor and I that evening at- tended the Lyrique, The interior was gorgeously de- corated, a magnificent sight even in itself. Not a single chandelier or gas-jet was visible. The ceiling was of ground glass, embellished with elegant ara- besques. Above and unseen, were jets of gas arranged in a concentrated mass, which poured down through the crystallated ceiling, showers of softened and equa- lized light. The performance consisted of a lyric- i i ill"! i ill 188 SKETCHES OF A TOUR drama and ballets, which were admirably executed, with good taste and delicacy of expression. One good characteristic in French Theatres is, that no woman is allowed to enter the pit, which is too frequently occu- pied by many of the ruder orders of ma8culine%. Notwithstanding the immense wickedness that prevails in Paris, there is no city probably in the world where the systems of society are better adjusted and pro- tected, and where evil or the objects of foul tempta- tion are less publicly exposed. Immense quantities of liquor are drunk, even in the open streets, by thou- sands of both sexes ; nevertheless, there is no rude- ness whatever to be seen, no mingled jargon of bac- chanalians heard ; and it is a rare thing to see an in- toxicated man upon the street. In Paris, liquor is sipped, not swallowed as in London and elsewhere ; sounds are harmonious, not hard and riotous ; manners are highly polished, like reflecting mirrors ; and dig- nity of self-respect in exterior aspect, and a desire to impress strangers with a favourable opinion of their city and its people, no doubt, has a great influence in modifying the whole. Paris is the seat of fashion, luxury and pleasure ; it is characterized by a grace- fulness of taste, a regularity and enforcement in sys- tem, and the polished manners of its people ; all of which, exclusive of its internal corruption, make it ex- ternally a paragon of style, and a model of imitation to every nation in the world. PROM CANADA TO PARIS. 189 CHAPTER IX. Having seen a considerable portion of Paris we pur- posed visiting the Exhibition, and on Friday morning entered that monstrous, yet magnificent Beehive of the Wbrld^s Industry. But before proceeding further, it is necessary to make a few preliminary remarks. Public exhibitions of this sort are first mentioned by Pliny, as having been held by the Romans during the reign of Nero. But in no age of the world have they attained such an extensive and magnificent character as during the present century. The Universal Exhi- bition of 1867 has, however, been designed on a scale far surpassing in magnitude and grandeur any of those that have preceded it, and constitutes one of the greatest and grandest representations of the Art, In- dustry and Science of the world. The buildings and surrounding enclosures occupy an area of nearly 100 acres, formerly the grounds known as the Champs de Mars, a place where Grand Military Reviews were usually held. It was there where the Fete of the Fe- deration was celebrated in 1790, when Louis XVI. swore Upon the altar of Liberty, in the presence of an immense multitude, to maintain the New Constitution, and there also, Napoleon held the famous gathering and military display after his return from Elba. The chief building of the exhibition covers an area of 40 acres. In exterior it resembles a huge oblong colise- um, and is. chiefly composed of metal framework in- terfilled with glass. Although convenient, and in- 11 il 190 SItBTOHfiS OP A tOtrit geniously designed throughout, externally it presents a massive rather than a magnificent appearance. It is surrounded by a park, studded with delightful gardens, scientifically laid out, containing a variety of exotic and other plants, and designed to unite the picturesque with the useful. In the park were also domestic animals of various species, implements and products of husbandry, &c., &c., displaying the triumphs of the agriculturist, with illustrations of the methods by which those results have been obtained. There were also models of improved houses, churches, furniture ; houses and palaces illustrative of the manners, customs, &c., of the civilized nations of the East ; among which were, mosque of the Sultan, temple of Mariette Bey, Rus- sian village by Russian carpenters, a joint production of 150 different manufacturers ; annexed were stabling and coach-houses containing horses and carriages of Russia. Also, restaurants of all the chief countries, illustrating the methods of cooking, dieting, and the various dishes and liquors peculiar to each country. Also, some very remarkabb and admirable collections of articles from Egypt, India, &c. ; besides, a thou- sand of other ancient and novel productions, &c., of an ingenious and marvellous character, and illustrative of the various characteristics of the different nations of the world. In the centre of the main Building is an oblong uncovered space in the form of a garden, de- corated with beautiful flower-beds, fountains, statues, &;c. From this centre a number of wide passages radiate to the circumference of the building, like the spokes of a wheel ; and these are intersected by others l^ftOM CANADA TO ^AAIS. 191 in circular form, thus giving to each main division, with its different apartments, a sort of angular shape. By following the circular passages in succession, were to be seen on either side the contributions of the dif- ferent countries ; while along the diverging lines, were the varied products of each country separately. The classification of articles comprises 10 leading divisions. The works of art lie in the ring nearest the centre, and the illustration of the common arts occupy the outer belt. Around the latter runs an erected passage, or promenade, in form of a bridge, from which an ex- cellent view is obtained of the workmen and machinery under and on both sides of it, employed in different kinds of manufacture. The machines requiring the use of fire are outside of the building ; but the prox- imity of the Seine affords ample scope for hydraulic process, &c. There are 15 entrances to the grounds of the building, and 16 doors to the building itself. The French and English departments are by far the largest. The design throughout is ingenious and eco- nomical, as it combines convenience, regularity and accommodation in as small a space as possible, the only deficiency being in a lack of a prospective or comprehensive view. The outer circle of apartments of the building are appropriated to saloons and refresh- ment rooms, chiefly French, but some of them assume the character of those of other nations. As the doctor and I approached the building we were startled by a strange variety of instrumental sounds issuing from an upper chamber of one of those apartments, and on in- (][uiry found it to be an African JRe9taurarU and 0^*- i:ff.i, i', III" ij mm -Mi ■m Ml, .'it'il ii: iti.i i Jl;'!'i! I" 111' 1 Ml m 192 SKETCHES OF A TOTTR chestra* Desirous of seeing the interior and its eon- tents, I persuaded the doctor to accompany me therein. The room was filled with gentlemen indulging in the African beverages, &c. On a raised dais was a band of African minstrels, of both sexes. The musical in- struments were peculiarly singular and uncouth. The bass leader was forcing a loud harshly clanking noise out of an instrument which resembled something be- tween a telescope and drum. The others were blowing away vociferously, thumping terrifically, and sweating profusely. The music, or rather the discordant notes, were occasionally accompanied by the wierd-like, grinding voices of the performers, the whole of which was startling and horrifying, and resembling the noise of a nail factory rather than that of an orchestra. On entering, a waiter came forward, conducted us to a seat, and then gabbled out something in the Black Language, " Monsieur^ parlez-vous Frangais ? " said the doctor. " Oui^ Monsieur ^^^ replied the waiter, and then asked us what so^t of drink we preferred. " A glass of water ^^ replied the doctor. " Don't you want anything else," said the waiter smilingly. " Oui, Monsieur y^ exclaimed the doctor. " I want you to stop the noise of those confounded Black-guards who are grinding out such an infernal noise." The waiter smiUngly replied, " If I should do so, we would lose our custom : those fellows are our " 9ign boards.^* " Yes, and your colours, too, I suppose," added the Doctor. Wishing to gratify my curiosity by tastmg the liquor of Africa, I told the waiter to bring ua two glasses of his best African liquor ; he did so, FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 193 for which I paid the sum of 50 cents. On tasting, I was completely disappointed in finding it to be nothing better than lager-beer, of a very inferior sort. The Doctor after sipping a little of this, spilled it under the table, and laughingly exclaimed, " I think the African has gifen us only the essence of his shadow, and made you fay rather dear for the whistle,^^ We then has- tily made our exit from the Africans,who were in reality nothing more than Frenchmen in sable colours. Pro- ceeding a few steps further, our attention was attracted by a sweet melodious voice ; whereupon the Doctor peeped through a door-way that led into the apartment whence the music issued, and beckoned me to follow. We entered :— On a platform was a number of beauti- ful girls, one of whom was performing her part in a melo-dramatic piece, in true Circassian style. The interior was filled with ladies and gentlemen, sipping the liquors of Circassia, attended by pretty damsels as waiters. No sooner had we entered than one of them provided us with a seat, for which kindness the Doctor exclaimed, " merci, madamoiselle,^^ whereupon she spoke in French, and asked him what liquor he prefer- red to drink. The Doctor looked at her again, and with a bow of politeness, again exclaimed, " 0, merd^ madamoiselle P* She again, very politely, made the request. The gracefulness of her manner — the gentle sweetness of her voice — ^the sparkling lustre of her eyes — and the smiling of her fascinating features — atst'dd like magio upon the Doctor's feelings, and he immediately ordered two glasses of Uie best Circassiat^ N ■A ':'■■■''■! •ill it 11 ill I .ii' 194 SKETCHES 01* A TOtTIt wine. In a few moments she returned with them. The Doctor pulling out his purse, inquired the amount. " Quatre franc ^^^ she politely said. " Quatre franc ; c*e8t beaucouptrop cJier!^^ he exclaimed — peering at her through his silver-spectacles, with astonishment. But the gentle sweetness of her honied tongue, encir- cled by the smiles of fascinating charms, were irresis- tible, and the Doctor, therewith, forked over 67 cents for the two glasses, which contained nothing better than raspberry-vinegar. I saw from the Doctor's countenance that he felt chagrined ; whereupon, I stared forcibly at him, and began to whistle. The Doctor returned the look ; and recollecting what he had said in the African apartment, exclaimed, " Con- found the impostors; 1 have been whistled too^^ and therewith he started to his feet, and we hastily withdrew, determined not to pay again so dear for our French whistles. On entering the Exhibition our attention was attracted by the clanking arid whirring of machinery, intermingled with the buzz of the ever- moving multitude. The eye was even more strikingly impressed by the varied and complicated scene around ; it was but a small portion of the whole ; nevertheless, it was startling to the fancy, and interestingly im- pressive and astonishing to the mind. We mounted the circular-bridge promenade, and slowly wended our way around the building. Machinery and ope- ratives, on either side, were busily employed in the manufacture of a variety of articles, surrounded by the varied and innumerable products of the Common Arts ; while multitudes of people, of every size, frROM CANADA TO PARIS. Wj sex, colour, creed, and country, were bustling to and fro. There, might be seen the sable sons of A frica ; the tawny tribes of Asia, — the intelligent European, and the ingenious American ; diversified by their own peculiar costumes, customs and characteristics ; yet all mingling together, under one roof, in one common brotherhood, as one great universal family of the world. We spent the remainder of that day inter- estingly, profitably, and at 6 p.m.,— the hour of general egress — we moved out with the moving throng, and re- tired to our lodgings. That evening we attended the Cirque de V Impiratrice, where a number of eques- trian and gymnastic exercises, of a starthng and aston- ishing character, were performed. Next morning we en- tered the Exhibition ; but shortly afterwards the Doctor and I lost each other among the crowd. I continued, however, to make the best possible use of my time, but saw no person with whom I had been formerly acquainted. At length, becoming wearied with exercise, I went in search of the Canadian Department, in the hope of meeting some of my Canadian countrymen there, so as to rest awhile and have a familiar chat with them. I travelled through among the divisions of the British Colonies ; but nowhere could I discover that of Canada. I then asked of several parties where the Cana- dian Department was ; but of such a place, or such a country, no person appeared to have ever heard, or to bfr in the least acquainted with. In fact, I began to think that Canada was either misrepresented, or des- ignated by some other cognomen, as " The New Do- minion,—" The Colonial Kingdom," — "Lauren- m I 1 111 '^m., l;jii.!»!l: m m 196 SKETCHES OF A TOtlft TiA." — " Norland," fi" Colonia," " Pokauaska KASKANOQUB."— " CaNADENSIS-FrANCOIS," &C., &C. But neither of these names could I see, nor yet any other characteristic of Canada, At length after hav- ing narrowly scrutinized every division in the vicinity of the British Colonies, I incidentally came to a small, singularly-looking, contracted apartmont, having two inlets. I was wonderstruck with its peculiarly barbar- ous-like exterior, and felt curious to know to what uncivilized tribe of Indians or Northern Asiatics it belonged ; on either sides of the portals stood two "wooden pillars, about 12 feet in height, in the form of trees, and having the bark on, surmounted by garlands of leaves, &c. Between these portals were a sort of framework, around which were placed stuffed animals, belonging apparently to Arctic climates. iVmong them I observed some frightful-looking specimens of white owls, having heads like lynxes and eyes as large as tea-cups — also, other eccentric-looking fowls, besides bats, beetles, and butterflies, — and a few specimens of fire-flies, horse-gnats, mosquitoes, &c., preserved in glass bottles ! There were also sot^*^ Northern species of wolves, catamonts, deer, foxes, beavers, &c., inter- lined with flying squirrels, chipmonks, skunks and ground hogs, &c., and crowned on top with a mon- strous grizzy bear, and otherwise embellished with deer-horns, skeletons of animals, &c., -the whole of which had the appearance of a Labradoric managerie. Having viewed the exterior front I ventured to go in- side, at the same time, using considerable precaution, lest some of the chiefs might fiercely prohibit my in- FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 197 gress, as very probably it constituted one of their private wigwams. I, however, entered, but saw no person within. I glanced over the interior, one part of which was devoted to Indian implements and weapons, among which I noticed bark-canoes, bead-work, toma- hawks, scalping knives, bows, arrows and quivers, tvampoons, tatooing utensils and paints, stone-pipes, Mckort^-swords, skin-progers, blue-beech-brooms, birch- bark-parchment, wooden-pens, snoiv-shoes, and moc- casins, also, a variety of other domestic and warlike implements. Along the one side were a numb ■ of small bottles, on shelves, containining samples of cereals and other grains, &c. On the othei, a large collection of gcol.^ical specimens, amounting in v/el^ht to severa' ';ons. There were also packages of Lome- spun cloths, of varied colours, teuks, sashes, coarse moccasins, wooden clogs, &c., and other products of the Common Arts ; while at the furthest end, were specimens of different trees, bark, boughs, leaves, moss, &c., forming a sort of alcove, having a small aperture. I had nearly approximated this part, when all on a sudden my attention was arrested by something stir- ring among Ihe bushes, I started back staring, no doubt, voraciously fearful. The idea struck me that I had aroused the lion-savage from his den, and that he would instantly pounce upon me, — and thereupon, I was ready to rush out of the apartment, when a per- son within the alcove poked out his head and stared at me with a sort of dreamy, bewildered aspect. We both stood and stared keenly at each other for several secon4^ without either of us attempting to bud^e a :'^il ;'i'!!i 'm\ i 198 BK£TOb£S OF A TOUR muscle, I saw from his physiognomy that he had not the appearance of an Indian, but in some respects resem- bled a Frenchman. Mustering up sufficient fortitude I very politely bowed, and addressed him with — " Bon jour^ monsieur. ^^ " Salut, monsieur," he replied ; and forthwith came out of his lair — and when he had stretched himself up to his full figure, he presented a somewhat respectable aspect. " Monsieur^ parlez vous Anglais,''^ said I — *' 0, oui, monsieur, ^^ said he, " Well," said I, " I hope you will excuse me the liberty I have taken in intruding upon your private apartment." " OA," said he, " it is a part of the Ex- hibition, and you are perfectly welcome, sir, and at liberty to examine all its contents." *' To what tribe of Indians does it belong, sir," said I. *' To what ;" said he, somewhat astonished ; then shaking his head, he exclaimed — " Je ne vous comprend pas,^^ Think- ing that he might understand me better in French I said — *' A quelle trihue de sauvages appartient-il,^^ " 0, Monsieur" — he exclaimed, almost petrified with my interrogation — " Oeci est le grand department de la Nouvelle Dominion du Canada,'* " Is it possible that this is the Canadian Department,''* I exclaimed, staring at him, with bewildered amazement. ** Cer- tainly it is, sir,'* said he — " Look up there, sir,** added he, pointing to a sort of sign-board above the alcove. I looked up, and there saw the word Canada in insig- nificant letters, surrounded by maple leaves, and sur- mounted by the figure of a " Beaver " chewing at a maple-branch. " Then," said I, turning to him, " I suppose you are a Canadian," " I am a French FAOM CANADA TO PARIS. 199 Canadian," said he, " and have charge of this De- partment." On telling him that I belonged to Lower Canada also, he was perfectly delighted ; and we en- tered into a lively conversation, which continued until the signal-bell announced the retiring hour. I then wended my way out .of the Exhibition ; but not without reflecting upon the miserably-insignificant representation of my adopted country — a country which now stands in the foremost ranks of civiliza- tion and Christian development, and characterized by industry, commerce, agriculture, mineral resources, &c., — and yet how barbarously represented through tie bungling mismanagement of stupid officials. Un- der the name of Canada, the North West, Hudson Bay territory, and Labrador, were profusely repre- sented ; — but not the real Canada. Why should the exterior front of the department assume the character of the 17th century instead of the 19th. That of the former should have been placed in the shadows of the back-ground. Under the present aspect, Canada was altogether mis-represented ; and like an affrighted child seemed crouching behind the forest shadows of the savage age, and figuring in the World's Exhibi- tion as an insignificant, secluded part, comparatively beneath the notice ()f the passer by. Wearied with the exercise and excitement of the week, I retired early to repose that evening. Instead of 7 days in the city they appeared as 7 weeks. What a vast variety of objects had been crowded into that small space of time ; it seemed as a miscroscopic miniature of a mam" moth panorama. m m m n 200 SKETCHES OF A TOUB Sabbath again dawned upon the Parisian Metropolis. The glorious sun agam kindled the pellucid vapors beneath the azure sky, to warm and invigorate the salutary exhalations of the genial air. Somnus had again doffed hib noctural mantle ; and the inmates of the great city £'^on bustled into busied life, to run another circle on the dial-plate of time. The Doctor and I, wishing to spiend our Sabbath better than the previous one, attended Divine Service twice, and devoted the time to hearing, not seeing ; which proved effectually in bracing up our consciences that day, and producing pleasant dreams during the night. Monday and Tuesday were spent by us within the Ex- liibition. During the four days, I had walked through almost every nook and avenue of the interior ; but nevertheless how few of the thousands of articles I had glanced at, could I either remember or describe, comparatively but few indeed. I had visited the departments of every nation ; I had seen specimens of almost every sort of article in the world, also the most ingenious and elaborate production and work- manship of the manufacturer and the mechanic ; the beautiful and most magnificent representations of the inspiritory genius of the artist, and the most superior and naturally executed developments of the sculptor's chisel ; but in attempting to give either a general or minute description of the whole, or even a part, would prematurely end in a presumptions failure. Instead of four days, four months might bQ profitably spent therein, and that too, without exhausting the vast material. There were over 42j000 exhibitors, tJae PROM CANADA TO PARIS. 201 most of Trhom contributed largely. Therefore, the articles were numbered, not by hundreds, but by hundreds of thousands. To glance only at every article separately would use up every moment of a life-time to accomplish the task. However, I only spent four days amidst the amazing labyrinths of that prodigious storehouse of the World's Industry, and jostling through the buzzing throngs of no less that 40,000 people djuly ; but they were four of the greatest, grandest and most comprehensive days of my existence, and comprised, as it were, a little lifetime even within themselves ; the eye, the fancy, yea, the very soul were strcuned to the utmost capacity ; self, for the time being, was entirely forgotten ; and the very soul felt as if the spirit had protected itself into the attrac- tive, exciting and bewildering scene. In point of magnitude, variety and magnificence, the Universal Exhibition of 1867, has indeed far exceeded the limits of my most sanguine anticipation. It has stamped its signet upon the world as one of the noblest prodigies of united civilization, and one of the intellectually magnificent wonders of the 19th century. Through the Power of Divine Mercy ^ may it he the means of more effectually developing the varied and universal resources of the arts and sciences^ familiarising the worldf and peacefully uniting all nations into one common hrotherhocd, under the Apostolic standards of the Christian Church, Before leaving Paris, I was desirous of visiting a few of the many mteresting places in the vicinity, and agreeably therewith, on Wednesday morning at 8i±, I m m 202 SKETCHES OF A TOUB the Doctor and I started off with renewed vigour ; and after a walk of three miles, entered the Bois de Bou- logne. This celebrated resort is connected with the Champs ElysSes by three beautiful avenues, rendered delightful on either side by lovely gardens, mansions, &c., and forms the favourite riding ground of the fash- ionable nobility of Paris. The Bois was formerly a dense forest, a sort of " game-preserve" for the Kings of France. It is now intersected with spacious avenues and walks, and contains artificial lakes, grottos and grand cascades, &c., which render the whole exceed- ingly beautiful and picturesque. Leaving the Bois, we proceeded to St, Cloud, distinguished for its ancient palace, a favourite resort of Napoleon I., and now fre- quently visited by the present Emperor. Another attractive object is the Park, which is admirably laid out and affords views of delightful scenery on all sides. It contains an artificial, but very beautiful cascade ; also, a number of fountains, one of which throws up a column of water to a height of 140 feet. In connec- tion with this place is a private park stocked with sev- eral hundred deer. Our next place, was the village of Sevres, noted for its manufactures of porcelain, which we also visited ; the whole process of making, drying, &c., was really remarkably interesting ; we also had a view of the Museum in connection with the Works ; it contained a varied collection of the products of the Ceramic art, of every age in the world. There were to be seen specimens of the uncouthly simple clay-pots of our First Parents, and from those, down ^ th^ finest and most elaborate porcelains of the Fr^" PEOM CANADA TO PARIS. 203 sent Time. Having visited one or two other places, we returned to our lodgings. On the following morn- ing at 6 A.M., we mounted an omnibus and proceeded to Versailles, 15 miles distant. This place is chiefly noted for its magnificent palace, founded by Louis XIV., which continued to be a royal residence until the beginning of the Great Revolution. It received a number of improvements during the reign of Louis Philippe, and by him was converted into the deposi- tory of a historical museum. It measures upwards of 1400 feet in length, and presents a magnificent and im- posing appearance. The interior is chiefly occupied with historical collections, consisting of five depart- ments. The subjects of the paintings range from the Crusades to the last Italian war. The most interesting pictures represent incidents and events in the career of Napoleon I. The portraits and busts are almost wholly confined to men of war. It occupied several hours to walk through the various apartments, merely glancing at their contents ; we then entered the gar- dens connected therewith. They are very extensive and exceedingly beautiful ; the fountains are on a grander scale than any I had ever seen, and are nu- merous and varied in design. There are also numer- ous other attractive objects, such as lakes, artificial cascades, circular colonnades, &c., the whole of which render it a most beautiful resort. In the evening, we returned to the city by rail. As I intended leaving Paris on the following morning, I was desirous of get- ting another gas-light view of the metropolis, and, therefore, accompanied by the Doctor and other two .>mm,\ I 111 km lU.H DKf t-iil! wjiitfi' ... Wf'J 204 SKETCHES OF A TOUB Englishmen, I had a walk that evening through the Champs ElysSes, and some of the principal boulevards. Before taking my departure, I will close the present chapter with a few additional characteristics connected vrith Paris. The buildings of Paris are chiefly composed of white limestone : their architecture, particularly of those of modern construction, is graceful and uniform, and as a whole, they present a cleanly and well-finished ap- pearance. The shops are magnificent bazaars. Even those who do not care to penetrate into their interiors will find an inexhaustible fund of entertainment in the shop-windows, which are embellished with a graceful- ness of taste and skill, and present an unparalleled array of all sorts of beautiful and brilliant objects. Scatter- ed throughout the city are vast numbers of public gar- dens and squares. Trees, also, have been planted, fountains erected, the whole of which are designed to impart a hygienic and salutary freshness to the air, rendering it essential to the health of the citizens. The water supply is derived from Artesian wells and other sources : no less than 37,000,000 gallons, at an average, are used daily, only one-third of which is used for domestic purposes. One of the Artesian wells is 1800 feet deep ; another is 2200, and occupied over five years in completing it, costing $200,000. The drain- age of Paris has been effected on an extensive scale, there being over 200 miies of sewers under the city. The main collector is said to be 16 feet high, 18 wide and over 3 miles in length. These works are said to surpass the subterranean wo:;der3 oi ancient Rome. £*BOM CANADA TO PARIS. 205 The commissariat arrangements of such a large and luxurious city as Paris, are necessarily very extensive. The daily consumption of food is computed to be 250 horned-cattle, 300 calves, 300 pigs and 1200 sheep, besides a vast quantity of poultry and game, &c. The Parisians yearly consume cheese to the value of $50,- 000, fish to the amount of l|2,500,000, oysters $400,- 000. The consumption of milk, butter, fruit, vege- tables, &c., is also enormous. Sugar is largely con- sumed, but the French manufacture all their own sugar, principally out of beets. Coflfee is more generally used than tea ; wine is the principal drink, but beer and porter are now becoming fashionable beverages. Horse flesh, and even that of the ass, constitutes a favourite dish among epicures : there are 19 butcher shops in the city for the sale of horse-flesh, as an article of hu- man food ; the price of prime cuts average 20 cents per lb. In general the food of the Parisians is more flimsy and less solid than that used in Britain. The French are generally fond of soups and dainty tit-bits, whereas the true Englishman loves to diet upon some- thing of a more tangible and substantial nature, some- thing that will satisfy his appetite rather than please his fancy. There are numerous manufactories in and around Paris, but many of them are confined to the making of fashionable and fancy articles. No fewer than 150,000 persons are employed in making the mis- cellaneous trinkets, ornaments, &c., known as articles de Paris, In the manufacturing of the various arti- cles of apparel, there are no fewer than 30,000 master manufacturers, and 1,200,000 operatives. Tailoring Hi: n ilit'' ¥ 206 SkSTOBEB OF A TOttlt appears to be the most important business, there being some 28,000 master tailors, and 26,000 clothing estab- lishments in the city. But, be it remembered, that Paris is the City of Fashion* The omnibus system is in the hands of a single company, which maintain 600 carriages and 7000 horses. Seventy-seven millions of passengers are annually conveyed from point to point by these alone. Each vehicle contains 14 inside and 12 outside places. They run regularly between cer- tain points, and answer a similar purpose as our Cana- dian city cars ; the charge ranges from 3 to 5 cents, within the limits of the city. The cabs or fiacres num- ber about 20,000, and are distributed over 80 stand- places. They consist of two classes — the fiacres or voitures — the latter are of a higher grade, and move at a greater rate of speed. The motion of the fiacres is uniform, the horses trot gently along, which gives a sort of graceful bob- bing to the carriage. These vehicles resemble the four wheeled covered carriages now publicly used in Cana- dian cities ; but are decidedly of a superior order. No person can obtain licence as a cab-man until he furnishes certificates of character, and passes an exami- nation in the art of driving and in the geography of the streets. Such a regulatory law would be very necessary to have introduced into the Councils of our Canadian, City-^Fathers, It would be a sort of pre- ventive to danger, and a check upon the imposition of cab-men, and produce a better system oi fare-dealing. The cabmen wear a sort of livery consisting of blue- frook-coat and pants, scarlet vest and glazed hat. l^ROM OAKADA TO l^AttlS. 207 They are noted for their civility and honesty ; and never attempt to accost any person upon the street m soliciting passengers. They are bound to give to any passenger who requires it, a card with their num- ber and scale of fares. There is no furious driving to be seen, nor clashing collision of carriages to be heard. The vehicles follow each other in a train, keeping the right hand side of the street. In looking along one of the principal boulevards, hundreds of these carriages may be seen at once ; the sight is indeed beautiful at gas-light. One evening I counted 130 of them that passed a given point during the space of five minutes; at this rate over 1500 pass per hour. The streets of Paris, in general, are good ; the boulevards are indeed magnificent, they are crusted over with a hard cement, and are constantly kept clean, so much so, that they resemble the floors of palaces more than streets ; the cleanings are sold as manure, and realize annually the amount of $120,000, towards the city revenue. The river Seine intersects Paris. It has a graceful and effeminate appearance, and seems rather to adorn the city than to be useful. Its total length is 47|) miles, and average velocity 20 inches per second. Twenty- seven bridges of a magnificent character connect the two banks, in the vicinity of Paris, and nearly all of them are decorated with statues, monuments, &c. The Port de Jena, for instance, is adorned with sculptured wreathes and eagles. At each extremity are two colossal groups, representing a Greek, a Roman, a Gaul, and an Arab, each curbing a fiery steed. On each bank of the Seine, ejctends a range of eztensiye fmr It l' i m 1 III 111 ' .-•it 208 SKETCHES OF A TOtTtt quays, altogether comprising 12 miles in length, and being planted almost throughout with trees, they form a very agreeable promenade. On the river are to be seen a number of long, covered boats, in which from 200 to 800 women are daily employed in washing clothes, each one paying a small sum for the privilege. There are other boats, which contain bath-rooms and swimming saloons. Besides these, there are nearly 200 bathing places in the city. The money of France is perfectly simple and conve- nient. The franc is the unit, and it is divided into 100 centimes ; 10 centimes are equal to about one penny sterling. A uniform decimal system of weights and measures as well as of coins, also prevails. It is to be hoped that the day is not far distant when a universal uniformity in these and in everything that will benefit mankind will be established among the civilized nations of the world. The administration of Paris is like clock-work. The Prefect is the head of the Municipal Council, and is appointed by the Government ; and he has con- trol over all the public affairs of the city. In or- der to discharge his comprehensive mission he has under his orders 300 officials, 4000 commissaries, inspectors, sergeants de ville, and two legions of the French Gendarmes. The Gendarmes resemble the Irish constabulary, wear a military uniform and are armed with swords and guns ; they number about 6,000. The Sappeurs Pompiers^ 1,000 strong, form a very efficient Fire Brigade. A vast number of sca- vengers are also employed in keepmg the streets dean. FROM OANADA TO PARIS. 209 SO clean, indeed, are the streets in general, and so smooth in surface, that they resemble marble-floors rather than thoroughfares of travel ; water carts are constantly to be seen keeping them cool and free of dust. The Sergeants de ville are similar to our Ca- nadian city police ; they wear cocked hats and rapiers, and in general are very civil and obliging, especially to strangers desirous of information. But in accosting either them or any other Parisian, it must be done with fashionable politeness, otherwise, they will turn silently away. The customary bow, accompanied with Monsieur, s'lb-vous-plait, &c., is indispensably neces- sary : Politeness costs nothing and buys much in Paris, I was frequently amused at the thorough- going and abrupt manner of some of my English com- pamons at the hotel, during the first day or two after our arrival in Parid ; but a change for the better gra- dually superseded it, and before I left, they had doffed the rustic garb of the old English style, and assumed the Parisian costume of fashionable politeness. I laughed heartily on hearing one of them denounce a comrade in very unfavorable terms, because that he had not endeavoured to rub off the jagged comers of his home-made rudeness. In fact, it is impossible to remain long in Paris without imitating to a certain degree the manners and customs of the people, who themselves are naturally polite in manner, graceful in action, and agreeable in disposition, without either a conceited dignity or affectation ; but in order to meet with good success, it is necessary to be acquainted o I II I 210 SKETCHES OF A TOUR with the French language, as comparatively but little English is spoken in Paris, or elsewhere in France. Notwithstanding the graceful character I have given to the Parisians, there are many defects, also, that are deserving of being condemned. The best side of Paris is to be seen in the exterior, which exhibits a sort of artificial policy, resembling a painted and a highly- polished material, while, perhaps, there is rottenness underneath. Paris, with all its immoralities, does not present any external indecencies, so frequently to be seen in British cities ; nor is the appearance of poverty and wretchedness scarcely ever to be seen floating upon the surface of society. No prostitute, if known, is allowed to parade the streets, nor in any manner to expose herself, or even her rendezvous. Whatever may be the unseen licentious immorality of the city, the exterior presents no voluptuous fascination ; and in this respect, Paris is a model to evert/ city and nation in the world. The infidelic principal, how- ever, prevails to a fearful extent. Its object is to stem the current of Christianity, and substitute it with a Socinian Liberalism, Pleasure is the order of the day ; indulgence is the luxury of fashicnahle life, and the Sabbath is the Grand Holiday of the Parisian world, in which every avenue of pleasure is thronged with the gay votaries of Mammon ; all are gaity, gracefulness and pleasure ; but the charm of domestic happiness is, I fear, unknown in that magnificent me- tropolis. Its citizens appears to live, eat, and enjoy themselves in the streets, in the gardens, and other fashionable resorts. Home is a word, which has no FROil CANADA TO PARIS. 211 place in their language, neither does it seem to have a place in their hearts, nor in their household, or their domiciles. Paris is their only and universal home. The social happiness and domestic comforts of the fireside are only a misnomer of Fiction ; all these are sacrificed upon the altar of Fashion, to the God- dess of Pleasure, and Paris is the great centre and circumference of their souls, the cfoat of their affec- tions, and the Elysium of their Terrestrial Exis- tence. CHAPTER X. On Friday morning, at an early hour, I parted vfith. the Doctor and my other English friends, turned my face homeward, and bade adieu to the magnificent metropolis of France. After a few hours' ride on the Paris and Havr3 Railway, I arrived at the city of Rouen, and there made a stay of throe hours. This place is situated on the river Seine, and is one of the most remarkable and picturesque cities in the north of France ; in historical associations, in its magnificent buildings, and in its venerable aspect throughout, it is interestingly attractive. Its population numbers 150,000. It was formerly the old English capital of Normandy. The city is richly characterized by its Gothic work. The cathedral is of immense propor- tions, and is profusely decorated with elaborate work- manship. The church of St, Owen is also large, and very attractive. The interior is elegantly embellished. The Palais de Justice^ a magnificent building, is •; i; 11 212 SKETCHES 07 ▲ TOUR noted as being the place where Joan of Are, in 1431, was tried ; and on the square adjoining, she was burnt as a witch. Besides these, the city contains many interesting buildings, spacious boulevards, &c., and is rich in valuable relics, and the works of sculpture and architecture. Leaving Eouen, I proceeded by the evening train to Havre, situated on the estuary of the Seine, It is one of the most flourishing maritime towns, and regarded as the Liverpool of France. There is nothing of architectural interest connected with it. Its streets are, however, capacious, its in- habitants gay and bustling, and business and pleasure appear to be their general characteristics. On the following morning I took steamer, crossed the British Channel to Southampton, and again found myself upon English soil. Desirous of being in London that night, it being Saturday — I took the first train, and proceeded onwards, and arrived at my destination at a late hour. My object in thus hastening to London, was to embrace the opportunity of again hearing Spur- geon and Dr. Gumming ; but I was disappointed in this, as the former had gone on a tour to Germany— the latter to Scotland; however, I had the pleasure of hearing their substitutes and entering their sacred and distinguished edifices. Early on Monday morn- ing I left the Metropolis and proceeded by the London and Liverpool Railway as far as Rugby — a town si- tuated upon the Avon, and noted for the excellence of its Grammar School, where " Tom Brown " has been made to figure as ohe hero of a tale. By another line of raHway I proceeded to Stratford upon the Avon, PROM CANADA TO PARIS. noted as being the birth-place, and for some time, the residence of Shakespeare. The town is pleasantly situated, and contains many mementoes of the great author. In the old , English Cathedral, a venerable looking place, are busts of Shakespeare, his wife and daughter. In the Town Hall are also a portrait and statue of him. The house in which he was bom is still extant. It was purchased by the government to be preserved as a memorial. There are a number' of other interesting objects connected with Stratford, but space forbids a description. I may, however, mention, that the country through which I passed, was remark- ably beautiful, but not romantic as in Scotland. The surface was comparatively level, consisting of exten- sive and finely cultivated fields and verdant lawns, decorated with trees, intersected by gentle streams, and studded with the stately mansions of the nobility, with, here and there, an industrious village, charac- terized by an antique appearance, rather than archi- tectural and domestic display. Leaving Stratford I proceeded to Birmingham, passing through a beautiful line of country, and several noted towns and villages. This town is noted for its coal and iron mines, its ex- tensive iron works, and the various railways and canals which communicate with all parts of the kingdom. All sorts of metal-ware, from a steam-engine down to a pin, are manufactured there. During the stay of a few hours in the town, I made a transient visit to two or three of the manufactories, and was wonderfully impressed with their magnitude, complicated machin- ery, &c., and the varied processes of operation. I 214 SKGTO0ES 01* A TOtTR remained at Birmingham until the following day, and thence started for Liverpool, remaining, however, a couple of hours on the way, at the town of Warrington, situated on the river Mersey. It contains a number of formidable edifices, and is noted for its iron manu- factories. In approaching the great manufacturing towns of England, the eye is wonderfully impressed by the numerous lofty columns of furnaces, that are every- where around to be seen towering up like monuments, and belching out fire and smoke like volcanic monsters, enveloping the air with masses of carbonic vapour. England is indeed a delightful country. It is not only rich in commerce and agriculture ; but it is formidably great in the industry of manufacture. Though com- paratively small in geographical extent, England, as a nation, is wonderfully great. Wealth is the solidity of its metal basis ; education is the architectural design ; commerce and manufacture form the cement ; the pro- ducts of the labourer and mechanic are the constituent parts ; wliile the luxurious lives of the nobility and aris- tocracy are only the sculptured embellishments that cluster around it, giving an attractive magnificence to the exterior, yet, independent of their intrinsic beauty, are wholly dependent for their support upon the mas- sive and substantial edifice. I arrived at Liverpool in the evening, and procured lodging. On entering the hotel I was somewhat startled by a gentleman address- ing me by name. I recognized him to be an acquain- tance of mine, belonging to St. Andrews, Ottawa, P.O. I was perfectly delighted with the interview, and with lum spent the evening very pleasantly. He had also FROM CAN4.DA TO ^ARIS. newly arrived, and purposed leaving for home by the first Canadian Steamer. A considerable portion of the next day was passed in strolling around the city with my fnend. Liverpool, though not attractively beautiful, is indeed commercially great ; it is the second city in importance in the Kingdom, and contains a population of nearly 500,000. It comprises many splendid edifices, among which, is St. George's Hall, — a massive and somewhat elegant building, in the Grecian style, 480 feet in length, and surrounded by Corinthian pillars of magnificent proportions. One of the most striking objects to be seen in connection with Liverpool is the immensity of its docks, lined with innumerable ships from every part of the world, and extending a distance of about seven miles ; thus giving to the city a com- mercial and business-like aspect. But the most start- ling and impressive feature of the whole, is the im- mense number of prostitutes to be seen on the streets, especially at night. On walking down to the Post Office that evening with my friend, I was somewhat astonished to see so vast a number of young women-t^ arm in arm, and otherwise, sauntering about, and in- termingling with throngs of seamen. Turning to my friend, I said, " I think the young ladies of Liver- pool have a great taste for promenading at gas-light." Looking at me abruptly, he exclaimed — ^^ Ladies, did you say ? Let me tell you, sir, that there is not 1^ lady among them all. No lady walks these streets at night— ev^T^ woman you see, sir, is a prostitute,** '< Possible ! possible P* exclaimed I, startled with the assertion. ^^ I aasure you, sir, it is so,*' said he, and 216 SkETO^S Ot A T6tTft in order to convince me, he stept forward to a police- man, and after a few preliminary remarks referred the matter to him ; who very civilly corroborated the as- sertion. " Indeed, gentlemen ! I am sorry to think that such is the case," continued he ; — " and from good authority I have been informed that there are no less than thirty thousand prostitutes in LiverpooV^ Returning to the hotel we seated ourselves upon the verandah in front ; and for sometime, eyed the passing and intermingling throngs, among which were many of those poor unfortunates ; some of whom were ap- parently beautiful — and their ages ranging from 25 down to twelve years, I was indeed sorry to see girls of such tender years headed and hurried onward to early ruin by others older and more experienced in sin. I felt grieved to see many a graceful looking woman lugged past — leaning on the arm of some foul- mouthed, half-intoxicated monster of iniquity. As the evening hours rolled away, and the fumes of re- peated drinks stimulated their immoral nature, the glaring immodesty of them, upon the street, became disgusting in the extreme, so much so, that gentlemen were insulted and besieged ^by them, — and that too, daringly in the presence of watchmen. — ^Alas ! how many parents that very night may have been lament- ing over their fallen daughters ; — ^yes, daughters, who might, otherwise, have graced the domicile of a loving husband, and become as ornaments to the best society. Paris, with all its immoralities, presents no sights as those of Liverpool ; no prostitute is there allowed to parade the streets ! nor any indecency whatever to be I*R0M OANAbA TO PAAtd. 217 exposed ; why then should not the laws of Britain, of which we boast so much, be not as stringent in this respect, as those of the less religious country of Brance, Boast not of thy greatness^ as a nation, oh England, whilst so foul a blot disfigures thy fair countenance ; thy legislators may be noble and thy ecclesiastics distinguished ; thy Christian charity and benevolence may be wafted upon the winds of every cUmate ; but while thy laws are so ineffectual in the suppression of such glaring immorality, thou cans' t not he spiritually great in the sight of God; instead of sending mission- aries and millions to convert the heathen, and make them even more savage and less happy than they were, better to appropriate the means towards the moralizing and enlightening of those who are under the light of the Gospel, and yet remain within the shadow of immoral darkness ; keeping in remembrance that it will be even more tolerable for Sodom and Gomorrah in the Day of Judgment, than it will be for you. On the following day, in company with my Canar dian friend, I embarked on the S.S. Peruvian of the Allan Line. Among the number who were bustling on board, I noticed some of my old companions by the Moravian. Our mutual recognition effected a happy interview. At length, everything having been adjusted, the motive power was applied to the vessel ; and we departed on our voyage ; two steamers, laden with troops for the Abyssinian campaign, were also leaving at the same time. Night passed away pleasantly. Next morning we were skirting the Northern coast of Pi 111 218 8EETCHIS OF A TOTTR Ireland ; and on our course had a view of the Qiand Causeway, About noon we entered Loch Foyle • and were met by the Londonderry " tender" from which were received the English Mails and 200 pas- sengers. The direction of the steamer was then re- versed, and ere long, she was coursing over the tidal surface of the ocean. My intention had been to dis- embark at Loch Foyle, and take a week's tour through other parts of Ireland ; especially to see the capital : but my acquaintances on board persuaded me to ac- company them. Perchance I was fortunate in doing so, as very probably I might have been considered as great a Fenian as Herod's wife, who had a ^^ head sent her** ; perhaps, captured as an American Hibernian, and made to suffer the hempen extremity of the i^aw, by being su«jpended, like the Habeas CorpuSy upon a Haman-gallows ; or, otherwise, shipped off to Botany- Bay ^ to study the royal science of the shamrock as a penalty for my verdant proclivities. Among the per- sons who came on board at Loch Foyle was a gentle- man from Beauharnois — an acquaintance of mine ; also, a number of other Canadians. But the msyority of the passengers were emigrants, chiefly young men and women, of a somewhat respectable exterior, in general, and exceedingly lively and humorous ; there being several musicians among them, they all resorted to the upper deck that evening, and commenced dan- cing, singing, ka., which they continued to a late hour. Ikfore morning the atmosphere became convulsive ; ,ciid a stiff gale started up the billows of the deep, ^Uknug the vessel to rock terrifically, and arousing up ^ia«M PROM CANADA TO PARIS. 219 many from their slumbers to recognize the stern reali- ties of the ocean ; but more especially, to feel the dis- agreeable commotions of a. squall within themselves — Two young men in the steerage wishing to be in the vicinity of good ventilation, had suspended themselves in hammocks under the ventilatory tube ; and while thus snugly embedded, a tremendous swell came rol- ling over the ship, and a portion of the water rushed down the tube with tremendous force, struck forcibly against the hammock, and prostrated all to the floor. Such an unexpected event startled the bewildered sleepers into wild uproar. Imagining themselves to be washed overboard, they roared vociferously, at the same time endeavouring to extricate themselves from their hammocks, yet clutching hold firmly to each other like drowning maniacs. Down came the steward, followed by three seamen, to ascertain the matter. Others, believing the vessel to have sprung a leak, jumped wildly from their couches, and rushed forward also ; but by the hght of a lamp they soon discovered the poor fellows trembling in their drenched garments, more frightened than hurt, yet appearing like the ghostly images of death. A tumbler of peppered brandy to each, soon set them to rights again, and the farce was concluded by a flourish of uproarious exclamations and laughter. Before uiorning, sea-sickness had be. come so general that only a few were enabled to take breakfast. Like the magician's wand, it was perform- ing wonders and playing its fantastic tricks. Instead of the harp, timbrel and dance, were to be heard the sepulchral groans and the guttural bag-pipes of qualm- ii'ij! m m m 220 SKEl^CflES OS* A !tOtrft ish and convulsive stomachs ; while, from the amount of lava everywhere to be seen, a stranger might infer that a hundred volcanoes had burst open at once, and that Vesuvius was doing homage to Neptune. During the rest of the day the restless sea continued to threaten danger , still, the gallant ship wrestled with, and withstood the gigantic billows, but the maLidy remained unabated. The scenes of the steerage, although sufficient to excite sympathy, were in some cases of an amusing character. In a corner might be seen two or three individuals keeled up into fantastic shapes ; others, here and there, straining their internal machinery with spasmodic energy and eflfort, to get ease, — at the same time, looking as if affected with the horrors of " evil spirits ;" while from almost every pallet and hammock might be heard the convulsive struggles of human nature in endeavouring to regulate its internal disorder. A peep from the hatchway down into the Ladies-Hall was even more attractive and characteristic, a description of which, would, perhaps, be too effective to weak nerves. I will, however, furnish a couple of specimens and leave my readers to their own suggestions. In one corner of the Ladies- Hall, on a mattress, an old Scotchwoman lay stretched out, apparently suffering more from the apprehension of death than real sickness ; whilst her daughter, also ill, was striving to render her assistance. The old woman turning up the white of hei large blue eyes, with a most piteous expression of countenance ejacul- ated — '^ Weel, weel, Jenny lass, has it como tae this at last, after I hae spent a' the best o' my days in FROM OANADA TO PARIS. 221 Bonnie Scotland ; that I'm gaun tae dee by myself, awa' frae a' my friens an acquentances ; and be whummel'd into the sea, an' nae get a decent burial after a'. Oh, that 1 had stayed in Scotland ; But Jenn} lass, will ye no tak me back again, an bury mo aside my auld man in my ain kirkyaird, oh whow mej but Tm deeing,^^ " Oh, mither, mither ! you maunna dee yet," ejaculated Jenny, the tears starting from her eyes. " Weel, weel, send post haste for brither Tammas ; will ye no, Jenny." " Oh, mither, I canna gang for uncle Tarn ; he's no here, ye ken, mither." " Weel, weel, send for doctor Tamson then, an' tell him tae bring some o' his best colic poothers dang wi' him." " Oh mither, ye ken Dr. Tamson's nae here, an' I canna lowp owre the sea tae Scotland for him ; but is there nae thing else I can do for ye', mither." " A-weel, a-weel, a-weel, my bairn; haste ye for Willie Baillie, the Kirk Minister, as fast as ye can ; an' tell him tae be sure an fetch his muckle bible alang wi' him— /or a« sure as daith Fm gaun tae dee ; — oh whow, mercy me, hut it was a black wind that blawed me owre this gaet. If this is Canada, I'ye got enough o' it already ; but if Providence preserve me till I get hame again tae Scotland, I'll warrant ye, its naither gear, nor guids, nor friens in Canada, that will ever tempt me tae traivel again. Mercy, mercy me, Jenny, will ye no fetch the Minister \ or 111 dee afore he M 1 comes. >» 222 SKETOHES OF A TOUR " Ohmither, ye ken the Minister's naehereaither," exclaim'd Jenny sobbingly, " but, mither, is thare naething else that I can do for ye ? Will 1 no mahye a guid kit o porritch, iVll saften yer stammeck.^^ The "word porritch at one time may have produced an agree- able sensation upon her feelings, but on this occasion it had rather a too powerful influence upon her sensi- bilities ; for no sooner had the word been uttered, than another revolution took place within the stomach of the jpoor old woman, and the pump-works were again set in motion. In another corner was an old Irishman, on his knees, stooping over his wife and two daughters, who were lying stretched out on the floor hke bales of cotton. " Arrah, Paddy, but I'm a dying, shure," exclaimed the old woman, " faith, an' I feel the gripes already as if it wur laiches crawlin' hither and tither over my heart, an' they'll be afther sucking ivry haporth o' blood out of my body, shure, och' ahone ! ahone ! " " Arrah, Biddy, dont ye be afther foolia yer soul," exclaimed Paddy, " faith, an'tis only a bit of a cowld ye've got ; or, may be, 'tis the sae thats too strong for ye-" ** Arrah, man, wont ye have pity upon me poor sowl, an' be after givin me a bit of a prayer afore I (fie, och, musha, mavoomeen, culeenah." " Oh ! father, wont ye assist mother, or, faith, an she'll die afore ye commince," cried one of the daughters affectedly. ^* Troth, an I will, me darlm," exclaimed Paddy, drawing out a bottle of whiskey. << Arrah, woman, look FROM OANADil TO PARIS. 223 ye here ; tis a drap o the crathur I'v^ brought ye ; up wid ye, Biddy, an' taisht it, an' faith an' it m\\ be afbhc^r driving the sae diviU put of ye ; bedad, an' it Tfill." At this moment she uncovered her day-lights ; and eying the bottle, stretched forth her hand, exclaiming with apparent joy : " Arrah, Paddy, may the Lord bless ye, ivery inch of ye, shure ; and may ye never be widout a sup o' the craithur, to relaise me gripes, an' be afbher giving my poor sowl a bit of a lift ; Be-gor- rah, here's good to ivry one of ye, my children, an' may it be the will of Pravadence that I may live to see ivry one of ye snugly interred be me side in the owld grave-yard ; an' here's luck to ye, Paddy, an' may ye never die as long a bit of yer sowl remiuns wid-in ye." Scarcely had she put the bottle to her lips when a tremendous wave struck the vessel and sent it keeling to the other side, causing every por- table article within to fly leeward in a jiffey. Away went Paddy, heels over head, to the other side of the hall, followed by Biddy and family, bottle, bed-clothes and all ; also, a number of others, among whom were the old Scotchwoman and Jenny, all went keeling up- wards and over, into one confused mass. When order had been partly restored the voice of poor Biddy was h^krd exclaiming, '^ Bedad, Paddy ; but the bottle is broken, shure ; an ivry drap o' the whishey is sphilt ; but wont ye git me another sup o' the craithur afore I die ! Och ! Musha, me-sowl, ahone ; arrah, Paddy, be quick wid ye ; Och, Musha, ahone ! I'm dying, shure ! an' faith an' I feel me sowl attimpting agin to come owd i>'me; bedad tm' tish ^osmgy a^ah, Ps^dd^, I'iq 224 SKETCHES OF A TOUa dying, och, och, &c.," and with that, it went splatter, dash ; but I will now draw the veil of silence over the distressing scene, and leave my readers to guess in what shape and embodiment the soul of poor Biddy came out ; I have the pleasure, however, in stating, that before two da^'s she became perfectly resuscitated, and this she attributed to the timely assistance of Paddy's spiritual administration in pouring down a new spirit within her, to re-animate and preserve her Bowl. The following day was calm ; and the weather continued so during the remainder of the voyage. Music and dancing were resumed ; and the sufferings of sea-sickness appeared to be entirely forgotten. By a sort of congenial influence arising from a similarity of characteristics, the Canadians, including a few others, formed a society by themselves, and took no part in the noisy and wild revelry ; but rather considered it out of place. They, however, occasionally relieved the tedium of the hours by conversation, and discussing important subjects. On the Sabbath previous to our leaving the vessel, the Eev. Dr. Wilkes of Mon- TBBAL, also a passenger, preached in the cabin and also in the steerage. His discourses were really ap- propriate, and of an excellent character throughout ; they were touching, heart-searching and spiritually affecting. Should I ever be induced to cross the Atlantic again, I would be most happy to have Dr. Wilkes on board as my spiritual adviser. On the Sabbath evening, a number of the ruder passengers clustered together upon the upper deck, and made themselves happy, by on^g songs, many of which 'nou CANADA ro PAWg. 32^ were of a yeryrulgar and licentious natftr« v « of the ve«el attempted to cSir.' f '*' whicli were continued to a late t! P'^<'<"«ng«', ve.7 time that the capSn iSi";;:^ JT^^ ^^'^ be too severely condemned for hav2 Ji, ! *"™°* disgraceful outrage nnnn *u q ^. ^ "^"^^^^ "uch a «»« Lord lJtSZ;b*\^?r,'r ''' ""^'^ ■ndeed, shocking to ibeLt^Z""'-J''"''' wowhipper on board Zi , • ^, °^ *''«""7 Christian of mordity. ' '^^ '^ "*«"'' "Pon the decencies and diet on hoard^'e W.^ft P' '^^''^^ date only two classm nf ^ ^'""^ accommo- :f-<'J^"~i:^m::Lr^;^^^^^^^^ -d between «60 and $65. Eyer^ZJJ?.'''"'^'' age must, before goin^ Shi ^ ^^"^ **^®'' ^'eer- bedding/diet andTfet arS ?"'' '^'""'^ ^* ««»ished him is cooked f!l5'.-' *' *" «>«' « sleepin;whereLltl-S '''^'' ""' ^ ^'^''^ ^ article of luxury Tnn! • '"' ^'^^^'^^'^ ^*b every -dation,w^?jrr;::u?"' ^"^ -- necessa^r to satisfy their ar.rHrV?'™'*'"''*^' are food given to the ^Z,T ' ^^ "' ^''"y The -a-t sort,andrc;Se&T-frj tf' '' ""^ Ij wholesome, and suitable^nS to 'th" "T"'''- blessed with iron nerves in thJ x °'^ ""^^ are 11 ': lit" IS I ii i,! 226 SKETCHES OP A TOUR cially when it is served out in the very apartment ad- joining the berths ; and where some of the most dis- gust'ng scenes of sea-sickness have taken place ; some eating out of dishes they appropriated to several pur- poses, of the most disgusting character. And be- sides all this, surrounded, perhaps, with from 200 to 300 noisy, disorderly emigrants, who generally eat both befoje and after an attack of sea-sickness, as if they were determined to get the worth of their money. Few Canadians, if any, are enabled to endure their condition under such circumstances longer than one day, or perhaps, one meal ; therefore, they must have recourse to other means. By slipping a few dollars into the steward's hand a person may procure some- thing that he can eat ; or, perhaps, some of the under stewards, or other mercenaries of the vessel, watch such opportunities, and present a bait by way of offer- ing to furnish to the person what he may require, for a certain amount. By such means many are thus enabled to outlive the voyage. But all this must be done secretly, so much so that any person of an indepen- dent spirit feels as if he were stealing the stolen pit- tance, although he may have paid ten times its real value ; therefore, in this way, a sort of dishonest spe- culation is carried on, and although it may be consi- dered /r«wc? in one sense, it is in another, a n&cessary evil. The donor considers it a great service, the re- ceiver, a great favour, and although it is bestowed through dishonest selfishness of spirit, it may be considered as a blessing to supply the sick and hungry, the drooping mother, the aged and enfeebled womsa;; T PROM CANADA TO PARIS. 227 and perhaps, many a suffering child, with a cup of tea and other refreshing cordials ; in this sense, it is much better to relieve poor suffering humanity, by bestow- ing upon it the gleanings and fragments of the cabin, instead of throwing them into the ocean, which is too frequently the case. It would be a much better sys- tem, and one from which the proprietors would derive greater benefit, and the steerage passengers, if they desired, could enjoy a greater amount of comfort, if our Canadian Steamer Companies would adopt that of the London Company, spoken of in a previous chapter. Why not have a special apartment, apart from the steerage, to those who may desire to be better accommodated with meals, and let the charge be proportionable with what is ordered. In justice to the Allan Line, I must say that the officers and seamen in charge of the vessel were, in general, very attentive to their respective duties as navigators , and notwith- standing the recollection of the causualties of this line of steamers, a person inclines to feel himself in safety within such a noble vess^.l as the Peruvian or the Moravian^ under such careful and experienced officers. Although considerable inconvenience, and a lack of proper accommodation and comfort may be felt by some persons in the steerage ; nevertheless, this line of vessels is said to be preferable, even in this respect, to thf ' ew York or Boston Linos of Atlantic steamers. Be this as it may, it is well known, howeve*, that during the last few years, the Messrs AUan^ not- ir It ^!!( ■ ■' IIJI»I 228 SKETCHES OP A TOUK withstanding their immense losses, inconveniences and opposition, have worked faithfully and industrious- ly in the promotion and maintenance of a Trans-Atlantic Steam communication ; and, therefore, cannot be too highly commended for what they have accomplished through their indefatigable energies and labour ; and the great benefit they have, in this manner, conferred upon Canada. By way of conclusion to the voyage, I may here state that nothing of a very eventful na- ture occurred d^iring the passage. On the 12th day after our departure from Liverpool, we were all landed safely upon terra firma, at the port of Quebec, from which place each and all of us proceeded onwards to our respective destinations. In conclusion, I consider it necessary to make a few additional remarks, by way of contrast between Canada and the British Isles. Unbiassed by any pre- judice whatever, I will, therefore, give my candid opinions, deduced from my own experience and other sources of information. From my earlier years I had fostered an antipathy against Canada, arising in part, no doubt, from the unfortunate circumstances to which I had been occasionally subjected, during which time I had also cherished an ardent desire to procure a permanent residence in my native land. My mind had been early embued with a love for the romantic legends and historical associations of Old Scotland. In fancy I had travelled its delightful vales and sequestered glens — the Elysian gardens of the goddess of poesy — I had revelled upon the gowany banks of its silvery ^ROM OANADA TO PARIS. 229 ' streams, made musical with the voice of song, I had basked amid the verdancy of its sunny braes, and clambered upon its heathery hills, — the Parnassian Temples of Apollo. I had visited its gothic temples, its ancient castles, and its battle-fields ; yes, — and I had conjured up the patriotic spirit of a Bruce and Wallace ; — the poetical inspiration of a Burns and Scott, and others of the eminent sons of Scottish Literature and Religion ; but above all, Scotland was the land of my forefathers, and the birth-place of my awn existence. No wonder then that my fancy de- lig'' "^d to revel among the charms of that hallowed g/C'und, — to call up a thousand historical associations conriected therewith, and to long with anticipation, to eiyoy the fancied realities, in preference to the rugged characteristics of the hack-woods of Canada^ that rudely cultivated country, with its ungenial clim- ate, and destitute of any associations of what I con- sidered to be of a truly noble or congenial character. With such tVfStered feehngs and prejudices as those did I leave OaiiaJa on my recent tour, with the anticipa- tion alst , C'f e rentually making a permanent residence in my native jov ntry. But anticipations are but sel- dom faithfully realized ; nor were mine in this case ; ^or when I had come in actual contact with the tan* ^ble realities of the country, I felt in a sense, disap- pointed ; and found that I had only been revelling among \q enchanted beauties of imagination. A gradual r?^ "fjrsion of feeling took place ; — and although I had gone to Scotland, as a Scotchman, I returned to i \ 230 sKEiroflEs Op a tour Canada, a confirmed Ganadian, I must, however, «ay that the scenery of the British Isles, particularly that of Scotland is infinitely beautiful, varied, and pic- turesque ; and in symmetry of form, and the architec- tural display of nature's varied designs, it is decidedly superior to that of Canada. But I saw but little of that sunny radiance, and that sweetness of Elysian loveliness, so frequently described in the pastoral poe- try of those countries. The air, particularly that of the more northern p"^*'S^ appeared to be continually impregnated with vaj^( lo cold at times as to be exceedingly disagreeable, and so dense, even when the vlouds had partially disappeared, as to render a dusky hue to the sun-light, and give to the surround- ing scenery a comparatively bleak and melancholy appearance, notwithstanding the architectural beauty and embellishments. I saw none of those golden hues of our Canadian summer suns, — and but little of that genial, health-invigorating warmth of autumn; nor the pellucid radiance of the azure skies peculiar to this country. Travel along the high-ways — exceeding- ly beautiful in themselves — and they appear to be made only for pursified dignitaries to ride on. A splendid carriage, mounted by monkey-fied mer- cenaries, and containing, perhaps, a nobleman, or other specimens of aristocracy — are the vehicles chiefly to be met with. From the comparatively few houses to be seen, with the exception of towns and villages, the country, in general, has a deserted look ; and pre- sents a dulness and even a deadness of aspect. Not PROM CANADA TO PAftlS. m SO in Canada. Mere, the roads, although generally imperfect, are extensive arteries of travel, made lively and life-like by the numerous farm houses on either side ; Jiere, the land is divided into innumerable parts, and personally occupied by the proprietors, who are themselves agriculturists, and form the majority of the population, while in Britain, the land is held by comparatively a few, who monopolize the soil, and, like Egyptian princes, indulge in all the luxury of ar- istocratic life, — living upon the toils of the poor unfortunate laborer, and like leeches, clustering around his heart, sucking the very life-blood of his existence. Farm servants in Britain are in general used by their lordly masters as if inferior to the cattle ; and, apparent- ly, considered as being very little superior to such, even in the scale of humanity. Day after day is with them a continued round of toil — and for which they are but very indifferently paid. They know but little of the world, and even of their own localty,from experience, — " work *' " worh,^^ is the emphatic watch-word oi their superior officer or agent. In Scotland, and in parts of England, servants are engaged semi-yearly at " hiring markets,''' and on these occasions hundreds of men and women flock thither, to await an opportunity of being hired, or in other words,—" to he sold as tvhite slaves to tyrannizing and autocratic slave-holders,'^ Poor, unfortunate people that they are ; I pity their condi- tion ; and so would every true Canadian who has a spark of sympathy and liberality within his bosom. Talk not of negro-slavery with reproachy Oye Britoni^ r 332 SKEDCBES or A TOUtt while so many of thine own people are still in the " House of Bondage." There are Pharaohs in the land who rule with a rod of iron over the Hebrews of the soil. Not only in this, but in every other phase of life, the tyranny of Britain's nobles over the working classes is deeply engraven on the soul of struggling humanity. But such things are not destined to per- petual existence. The seeds of dissatisfaction have been sown within the hearts of thousands, and are now becoming visible upon the surface. The discovery of this continent was a fortunate event in the World's History ; — a favourable disposition of Providence, in opening up, as it were, an asylum for the surplus popu- lation of Europe ;— r.n asylum of which we^ as Cana- dians or Americans^ may feel proud, as well as every British emigrant who becomes an inhabitant of our country. Although proud of the land of our fore- fathers, we should also feel proud of the land of our adopted country, and our condition as a people. Uni- versally we have domestic comforts and conveniences, and national liberties and rights, which many of the inhabitants of European nations are denied. Unfet- tered by the trammels of ecclesiastical Hierarchies, "we are at Uberty to worship God in the manner we may think fit, and that too, independently of the tyran- ny of state^ to compel us to support any church foreign to our own. We have also constitutional rights, as freeholders of the soil, which neither state, tyranny, nor Hereditary titles can deprive us of. We have in- numerable resources, ample scope, and natural and f^ROM CANADA TO PARIS. 233 artificial facilities, for the development and improve- ment of our condition as a nation. Nor are these alone confined to the wealthy or monopolized by the nobi- lity. The field of enterprise is open to every person, irrespective of creed or country. Independent of our own industry and labour, we are also indebted to our American brethern for our present position. They have shown us an unparalleled example in progress and development ; and we have copied largely from them. They have given us a market for our surplus products; and besides, they have infused a spirit of enterprise within us, and introduced their mechanical ingenuity and implements into our midst. Though divided from each other by the natural Line of demarcation^ and separately characterized by our respective Govern- ments,- let us, however, endeavour to draw more closely to each other, in friendship and congenial feelings; and cherish the principles of Justice^ Honesty and Charity^ not forgetting to keep in mind, that an honest principle y a mutual^ amicable^ peace-loving spirit^ are the most substantial fortifications of neighbouring nations. They have constituted for themselves a powerful and extensive Commonwealth, and we are now forming the nucleus of a Corf ederate Dominion. A Confederation, I fear, if not re-adjusted and based upon more economical and universal principles, will prematurely fall to pieces like the deified image of the Babylonish King. Let us, however, endeavour, agree* ably and unitedly, to exert our energies in the further promotion of our welfare ; and if we are not subjected 234 SKETCHES OF A TOVB to the fato of PharaoNs lean cows, perchance we may yet rear a Babel in our midst, and make unto ourselves a Great Nation, What makes a country rich, a nation great ? Good laws and liberty from Church and State, Abundant harvest, and prolific soil, Industrious people — all inclined to toil ; Trade, commerce, education, peace and labour. With every nation as a friendly neighbour ; All these contribute to fill up their places, But Gold supports the whole, and forms the basis. Nearly eleven years ago, when I issued my first publication, The Woodland Warbler, a favourable notice of that work appeared in the New Era, of which Thomas D'^Arcy McGee was editor and pro- prietor. Since that period I have had several inter- views with him ; and on each " occasion he spoke encouragingly of my literary pursuits, and even offered to assist me by his influence, if required, — a kind- ness on his part which, unfortunately, I never em- braced. Now that he has passed away suddenly from our midst, I cannot let the present opportunity pass without giving expression to my feelings. Therefore, in obedience to the impulse of gratitude, and from a high appreciation of his great literary attainments, and out of a deep respect to him as a congenial spirit, I FROM CANADA TO PARIS. 235 have written the following yerses as a tribute to his memory : — IN MEMORIAM. HON. THOMAS D'ARCY McGEE, « Died April 7th, 1868. The treacherous ruffiartf like a savage foe. Stole unperceivedf and dealt the fatal blow ; 27ie Martyr fell, his l\fe was.sacrificed^ And with his blood our union was baptized. Our friend bas fallen — and our nation mourns, Its spirit droops with universal woe ; Whilst in its bosom indignation burns, And flames with yengeance 'gainst his murd'rous foe. When a fond parent dies his household grieves, So do we mourn oui' friend's untimely doom ; Or, when the sun departs, the earth receives The mournful impress of a death-like gloom. Closed are those eyes — forever closed on earth, — Those orbs that sparkled wit's electric light ; Mute is the voice which oft has thunder'd forth An eloquence of soul supremely bright. His harp is muffled with the shrouds of death. That sacred harp of patriotic song ; Whose chords attuned his soul's ethereal breathy And like the echoj shall its tones prolong. There is a void within our Senate Halls ; There is a shadow where his radiance shone ; His toues still linger round their Qothic walls, And echo back— A«'« gone^^fortver gone t i ; ' ^36 SKETCHES OF ▲ TOtE There is a shadow round his hoasehold h«arth-«- A Tacuum, too, made desolate by death ; Where kindred spirits mourn departed worth, Which, like the wreath, exhales a rital brea^^ The hero falls — the human onlj dies. But genius breathes through his distinguished name, And countless millions yet unborn, shall rise To read his history at the lamp of Fame, Its once embodied life his soul outlires. And sheds its radiance in a nobler sphere ; Though dead, his earthly genius still survives. And, sun-like, gilds its intellectual year. Distinguished minds by death do never die, But in the glory of their souls still live ; They come and go, like comets in the sky. Yet seem as sun-orbs by the light they give. Death stalks around in countless varied forms ,' Its Autumn marks the universal year ; Its heart is sterner than Siberian storms , Its breath congeals each sympathetic tear. All shades of life beneath its weapons fall ; The Earth is strewn with wrecks of human life ; Each solemn knell's a warning voice to all. That death shall close life's universal strife. • Mourn, Ebin, mourn thy world-distinguished son. Now sunk beyond thy verge, in Western clime, With minstrel harp resound his dying moan, And chant his requiem through the vaults of Timt, We mourn him also, for our love is great ; His useful virtues make our loss severe ; We'll miss his presence in our Halls of State, And also in our intellectaal sphere. FROM OANADA TO PARIS. 237 No more hit •loquenee will thrill our heart, And cheer our loul with intellectual light, Tet genius will with lunar beams impart A lustre to those scenes he once made bright. " Pkaoi" was his motto— 4till he nobly fought To harmonize the jar of public life ; And from the bitter herbs of wrongs, he sought A remedy to soothe politic strife. With every Christian creed and kin he shared That love of soul which points toward the skies ; Even in his follies honour's course he steered, And vices were but virtues in disguise. Not titles, treasures, nor distinguish'd birth. The sculptur'd marble or the lettered stone. Make men illustrious when they've gone from earth, 'Tis Christian faith and virtuous works alone. For these Heaven rears her monuments of Fame, And stars these virtues in celestial skies ; A selfish glory is a baseless name. But heaven-directed genius never dies. Jfor can his (2te— Heaven registers his worth. And history will enshrine his earthly fame ; The Senate Towers will crumble down to earth, But Time can ne'er efface his deathless name. By Luron's stream,* where savage tribes have fought, And many a chief exhaled his dying breath. Our Chitftairis life by bloodier foes was sought, Their vengeance quiv'ring on the lips of death. He dreaded not the serpent's virus fangs. Nor yet beheld the demon's wizard eye ; His life was measured by a ruflfian's hand, Which gave no warning voice that death was nigh. • Xuron— orffinal name of tlie Ottawa. ^ 238 8K1TCHES OF A TOUR FBOM CANADA TO PARIS. The busy scenes of day lay hushed — the city slept^ And yon fair moon exhaled her radiant breath. When forth the treacherous villain cowardly crept, And doggfd his victim to the gates of death. On fiery wings the deadly missile flew, His soul was pierced, his life was sacrificed ; He fell a victim, but a martyr too, An4 with his blood our country was baptized. The hellish deed was done— Earth groan'd with dread, And Heaven itself with horror stared aghast ; But angels hover'd o'er the honoured dead. And wept to hear his spirit breathe its last. That was a fatal night — its very name Is now engraven on the walls of Tme;-~ A deed so foul, that makes hell blush with shame, And brands a stigma on the book of crime. Inglorious villain — mortal, murdering wretch, A Gain's curse is stampt upon thy brow ; The very earth and heavens condemn thee such, And hell itself detests thy friendship now. Yea, from the dead^ within thy demon cell. Ghosts will arise to haunt thy restless dreams — To scorch thy conscience with the brands of hell. And plunge thy spirit in Tartarean streams. ANDREW L. SPEDON. St. John Ghbtsostom, Chatbauouay County, P. Q., April, 1868, us. N.