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 -'-X'-'^'l 
 
 DESCRIPTION 
 
 OF 
 
 Messrs MARSHALL'S GRAND P£RISTR£PHIC PANORAMA 
 
 OF TH£ 
 
 POLAR REGIONS ; 
 
 TVUICa DISPLAYS 
 
 THE NORTH COAST 
 or 
 
 NOW EXHIBITING 
 IN THE >^»^" ynr nrnr,rrT i,n iii^nnT^^y nrrrm^^ 
 
 Painted from Dnwings taken by Lieut. Beechct, who 
 ACCOMPANIED THE POLAR EXPEDITION IN 1818; 
 
 And Messrs Ross and Saccheitse, who accompanied 
 TIIF. EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER A NORTH-WEST PASSAGl^ 
 
 
 Where undissolving from the first of time. 
 Snows swell on snows amazing to the sky ; 
 And icy mountains high on mountains piled. 
 Seem to the shivering saiior from afar. 
 Shapeless and white, an atmosphci« of clouds, 
 Projected huge and horrid o'er the surge. 
 
 LEITH: 
 
 PRINTED OY WILLIAM IIBRIOT, QUALITY STREET. 
 
 1831. 
 
 ^ricc Sixpence, 
 
 TO UR HAD AT THE PANORAM.<t. 
 

 
 

 DESCRIPTION 
 
 OF TUE 
 
 Nortlj ©oaisit A Spitiftierfien, &c. 
 
 VIEW I. 
 
 Subject — The Dorothea, Captain Buchan, in the vicinity of 
 Cloven Cliff, forcing her way to the edge of the Barrier of 
 Ice, <S*c. 
 
 On ^e left of the spectator, is the Dorothea, Captain 
 Buchan, in tlie act of forcing her way to the edge of the 
 barrier. She is supposed to be nippedi between two floes of 
 ice, which are closing, and inclining her over, on one side ; 
 on the other side of the Dorothea, in the distance, is part 
 of the barrier of ice, which extends from Spitzbergen to 
 Greenland ; on the right, in the foreground, arc Captain 
 Buchan and Lieutenant Franklin, consulting together on 
 their future proceedings ; beyond whom, a little to the left, 
 are Mr Fisher the Astronomer, and other officers, making 
 observations on the latitude, longitude, variation of the com- 
 pass, and dip of the needle, previous to their departure to 
 the westward, in which quarter it was determined again to 
 seek a passage, and In the event of failure, to proceed round 
 South Cape to the eastward of Spitzbergen : on the extreme 
 right over a huge piece of ice, are some of the Larus Glacu- 
 ous, or Glacuous Gull.* In the foreground are immense 
 masses of ice, fragment upon fragment, some of them higher 
 than the main mast, beautifully illuminated with the rays 
 of the sun,-{* which is seen above the horizon. 
 
 ■ ■■■ ■! IIIM . I ■■■Ml 11 — ^^^^^^.^— ^■^■M [■■■I 11 ■ ! ■■■ — ^— — ^^^w^i^W^— ll^l^M^M^^Wi— 
 
 * This elcgftTit bird, called by the Dutch, Burger Meister, being the muter of 
 all other sea-fowl within the Arctic Regions, builds its nest in high dilTs, and 
 preys on dead whales, and small birds. They seldom stray far from the land or 
 ice, are constantly on the wing, and not often seen to associate with each other. 
 
 ^ The sun sets no more here after the 3d of May, when distinction of day and 
 night is lost From the raiddJe jof August, the power of the sun declines; it sets 
 fast in September— day is then hardly distinguishable ; and, by tlic middle of 
 (,)ctober, the sun ta^es a long leave of this dreadftil country ; tlie bays become 
 iVozen, and Winter reigns triumphant. The sun never appears again till about 
 ^le 3d of Fcl^ruary, leaving this dreary country four monttis in dvkn«s8. 
 
4 
 
 The interest exeitcil by the equipment of the late expedition 
 towards tlie North Pole, was of so general a nature, that there 
 is scarcely an indivichial who is not fully in possession of its 
 purport ; but, as no narrative of this voyage has Iiitherto appeared 
 before the public, the following brief account of the operations 
 of the ships, and descriptions of the country they visited, may 
 not prove uninteresting. . 
 
 The Dorothea and Trent, under the orders of Capt. Buchan, 
 quitted £ngland early in May 1818 ; and with favourable winds, 
 pursued their course to the northward. As they advanced the 
 weather became considerably colder ; and, ere they had reached 
 the eightieth parallel of latitude, the ships were cased in ice. 
 The continuation of the sun above the horizon, however, soon 
 dispelled this severity of climate ; and the thermometer fluctua- 
 ted between 40° and 28° Fahrenheit, during the remainder of 
 the summer. 
 
 Few obstacles presenting themselves, the island of Spitsber- 
 gen was approached on the 26th of May. This island, first dis- 
 covered by William Barentz, in the year ISp*, lies between the 
 seventy-sixth and eighty-firKt parallels of latitude, or nearly 400 
 miles north of Norway. Its shores at first present a true picture 
 of dre:irine8S and desolation .* the principal objects which attract 
 the attention, are craggy \ :< ^otains, with tlieir summits tower- 
 ing above the clouds ; deep gtens filled with eternal snows ; and 
 stupendous icebergs. The eye, hpwever, soon becomes fami- 
 liarized to such a scene, and the mind is filled with admiratioi^ 
 of the grandeur and magnificence of its objects. 
 
 VIEW II. 
 
 The Trentf commanded by Lieutenant Franklint far in the 
 IcCf the crew endeavouring to extricate her by carrying out 
 ropes, iSfc.—'Grey Hook, Red Beach^ «S*c. 
 
 In the left centre of this view is the Trent, still far in the 
 ice, from her not being of sufficient weight to separate the 
 pieces, she is just pressed by two fields of ice, ana, in con^ 
 sequence, lifted up several feet, and heeling over ; the crew 
 are endeavo'iring to extricate her by carrying out ropes, ice 
 anchors, &r . Beyond the Trent in tlic distance, along the 
 horizon, is the continuation of the icy barrier, extending 
 from Spitzbergen to Greenland ; the promontory of land 
 on the right in the distance, where you lose sight of the 
 icy barrier, is named Grey Hook. 
 
 The yellow tint over the horizon, behind the Trent, and 
 extending to Grey Hook, is intended to represent the Ice 
 
 unil 
 
B 
 
 (lition 
 ; there 
 of its 
 peared 
 rations 
 1, may 
 
 uclian, 
 winds, 
 :ed the 
 reached 
 in ice. 
 »r, soon 
 fluctua- 
 nder of 
 
 pitzber- 
 Rrst dis- 
 fcen the 
 irly 400 
 B picture 
 h attract 
 8 tower- 
 ws; and 
 les fami- 
 Imiratioq 
 
 ir in the 
 n/ing out 
 
 Par in the 
 arate the 
 , in con- 
 the crew 
 'opes, ice 
 ilong tho 
 xtending 
 r of land 
 [it of the 
 
 rent, and 
 t the Ice 
 
 BUnk, a phenomenon always seen over any compact aggi'e* 
 gation of ice, whenever the horizon is tolerably free from 
 clouds. It is evidently occasioned by the rays of light strik- 
 ing on the snowy surface of the ice, and being reflected into 
 the superincumbent air, where they become visible; but the 
 light which falls on the sea is in a great measure absorbed ; 
 hence the openings occurring in a body of ice are seen in the 
 atmosphere, reflected with the blink, prodticing a perfect 
 map of the ice and water in the air. Ste Scoresby ore Polar 
 Ice. — On the extreme right is Red Beach ; on the foreground 
 on the left is the Larus Arcticus^ or Arctic Gull ;* to the right 
 of which, among some gigantic fragments of ice, are Alca 
 Alle, or Little Awks;"f* a little to the right are some of the 
 Puffin Awks ; J in the centre of the view, on some ice in the 
 foreground, are the Larus Ebumeus, or Ivory Gull ; a little 
 to the right of which are seen some Eider Ducks and Drakes; 
 these birds are very numerous in the bays of Spitzbergen, to 
 which place they migrate to breed ; they are celebrated for 
 their luxurious down, now an extensive article of commerce 
 in many parts of Europe ; beyond them are groups of Seals§ 
 sporting on the ice ; on the wing are the Sterna Hirundai or 
 Great Tern;|| ^"id on the extreme right is Red Beach. 
 
 It was along the western shore of this uninhabited island, 
 that the ships pursued an almost uninterrupted course, until they 
 reached Cloven Cliff, or its northern boundary, where they found 
 
 * This bird feeds on fish that have been caught by other birds, whom it per* 
 secutes till they are obliged to drop their prey, which it catches with great dex- 
 terity before it reaches the water ; they also display a good deal of cunning in 
 watching the flight of ducks from their nests, when they instantly occupy them 
 and devour the eggs. 
 
 ■)■ These little birds are seen in such myriads in the Arctic Seas, as to baffle 
 all description ; they make a continued chirruping noise which from their num- 
 bers may be heard several miles ; they arc so stupid and easily frightened, that 
 they frequently fly to the danger they wish to avoid, and tlius become an easy 
 prey to the Seals, and other animals inliabiting those regions ; tliey nre about the 
 size of a black-bird, dive well, are always putting their bill to the water as if 
 drinking, grow fat in stormy weather, and in Newfoundland are called the Ice 
 Bird, being the harbinger of ice. 
 
 X ^ec Pcnn. Arc. Zoo. Vol. ii. p. 511. 
 
 § These amphibuous animals are so well known as to render any description 
 unnecessary. 
 
 II This graceful little binl surpasses in its plumage every other species of the 
 featheied tribe, found within the Arctic Itcgions. Nature has provided them 
 with such sharp bills, and they are so remarkably active, that they fearlessly dart 
 upon birds of much larger size, and without ceremony rob them of any food they 
 may have collected, and may thus be said to tyrannize and lord it over every 
 other kind of bird except the Burger Mcistcr They have even courage enough 
 to attack the human species, if their nests arc molested by them. 
 
6 
 
 that immense barrier of ice, vrhich has littherto prescribed limits 
 to discovery, and frustrated every exertion to reach the Pole. 
 
 This vast body, composed principally of floes, that vary in 
 thickness from fitteen to sixty feet below the surface of the wa- 
 ter, was what the ships had to contend with. Twice they were 
 led into it by flattering prospects, and each time were beset. '^ 
 The first time, they were witliin two miles of the shore, and in 
 such shoal v^ater that the rocks were plainly to be seen. The 
 second, after penetrating to 80** 14' N. the floes closed upon them 
 and they became immoveable. 
 
 These discouraging circumstances, though they threw a damp 
 (ipoh the most sanguine expectations, served but to redouble the 
 ardour of every officer and seaman ; and, finding the sails alone 
 were insufficient to force a passage, the laborious operation of 
 dragging the vessels through witli ropes, and ice anchors, waa 
 resorted to— an experiment never before made, and now attempt- 
 ed with the determination of leaving nothing undone that might 
 affiird the slightest prospect of accomplishing the important en- 
 tcrprize in view. 
 
 At first this fatiguing duty was rewarded with some degree of 
 success ; difficulties, however, increased as the vessels proceeded, 
 till at length, the compactness of the ice was such, that they 
 could neither advance nor recede. Thus closely wedged on all 
 sides by boundless plains of ice, extending as fur as the eye 
 could reach, the greatest anxiety was manifested in looking for- 
 ward to some change, that should either admit of the vessels 
 proceeding, or enable them to retrace their steps, and seek a 
 passage in some more favourable t}uarter. 
 
 None, however, appeared until the 25th of July, when some 
 channels of water were descried to the southward, into which 
 the ships, aided by a northerly wind, soon forced their way ; 
 and, after four days combating with the ice, against which they 
 were frequently struck with a violence that caused them to re- 
 coil with the concussion, and which nothing but their extraor- 
 dinary strength could withstand, the sea was announced from 
 the mast-head, to the unspetikable joy of every one on board. 
 
 Thus, on the evening of the 29th July, they again found 
 themselves in clear water, after having penetrated full forty 
 miles within the icy barrier, and having been twenty-two days 
 beset among it ; their situation frequently critical ; the ice press • 
 ing with such force against the ships, that the compression rose 
 many parts of the decks, and twisted the pannels of the doors in 
 their frames : sometimes lifting the ships several feet, and often 
 causing them to lie over very considerably on their side. 
 
 * A ship is said to be beset in the ice, when the pieces furm a body so compact 
 as to preclude the possibility «f moving her. 
 
limits 
 ole. 
 
 /ary in 
 he wa- 
 y were 
 beset.* 
 aitd in 
 The 
 m them 
 
 a damp 
 uble the 
 Is alone 
 ation of 
 ors, was 
 attempt- 
 it might 
 rtant en- 
 
 legree of 
 ■oceecled, 
 hat they 
 ed on all 
 I the eye 
 iking for- 
 le vessels 
 td seek a 
 
 'hen some 
 ito which 
 lieir way; 
 rhich they 
 liem to re- 
 ir extraor- 
 nced from 
 I board. 
 ;ain found 
 full forty 
 ;-two days 
 e ice press- 
 ession rose 
 he doors in 
 , and often 
 ide. 
 
 )dy so compait 
 
 It is tlieir approach to the margin of the ice, on the evening 
 of their extrication, which is intended to be represented by this 
 and the foregoing views : when a diversity of scenery was ob- 
 servable, that appeared well calculated to convey a general idea 
 of the nature of the Arctic Regions. 
 
 VIEW III. 
 
 Hed Hill, Red BeucK Red Bay, ^c. with the surrounding 
 sublime Scenery ^ peculiar to this frozen climate. 
 
 On the extreme left is Red Hill, on the right of which is 
 Red Beach^ so named from the colour of their soil : this 
 appears to be the extreme point reached bjr most voyagers. 
 The Hon Captain Phipps, however, after three attempts, 
 succeeded in passing it. It was off this land the Dorothea 
 and irent were beset in the ice for 14 days: on the ice on 
 the left are some of the crew belonging to the Trent, killing 
 Walrusses.* Immense fragments of ice are in the fore- 
 ground on the right, on which are two of the crew ; the 
 boat belonging to the Trent supposed to have put them on 
 the ice ; immediately over which is a whale breathing : on 
 the wing, in the center of the View, is the Fulmar Petrel, 
 or Storm Fowl -f- The Black Gulliemot, or Diving Pigeon, 
 on and over the ice. 
 
 * These hideous animals have been known to attain the length of eighteen fee(^ 
 and girth twelve or thirteen. The head is small, and so connected to the neck as 
 to appear a continuation of the latter ; the eyes are small, and sunk into the head ; 
 their lips are fat, and beset with long bristles ; the skin, wliich is about an inch 
 thick, hangs in folds or wrinkles, particularly about the neck, and is covered with 
 a short bristly hair, of a dirty yellow or greenish tint \ their legs are shott, and 
 feet like those of the seaL These monsters are very numerous about Spitzbergen, 
 and are generally seen collected in groupes, on pieces of floating ice, where they 
 lie huddled togedier, bellowing, or rather grunting like swine, some rolling and 
 others scratching themselves. Sometimes the whole groupe ftdl asleep, with the 
 exception of one, who is set on the watch ; he, however, frequently dozes ; and, 
 at such times they may be easily approached, and killed With a bayonet or lance. 
 The motliers invariably provide for the safety of their young in preference to 
 their own, by plunging it into the sea, even though they should be badly wound« 
 ed. A striking instance of affection was also manifested by a young one towards 
 its mother, who, on seeing its parent killed by the crew, was so exasperated, that 
 the little monster singly attacked the boat ; and, though repeatedly wounded, 
 would not desist, but crawled upon the ice after the men, until a lance entering 
 its heart terminated its existence. 
 
 f This Bird every where abounds within the Arctic circle, and has even been 
 seen in the southern hemisphere by the celebrated Cook. They keep chiefly in 
 the high seas, feeding on dead whales, or whatever ofiers on the surftfce, but will 
 with their strong bills pick the fat out of tiie bucks of the living whales, especially 
 of the wounded, whose bloody track they follow by hundreds, t» watch its risinf. 
 
VIEW IV. 
 
 the continuation of Red Bay, three magm/cent Iceberg*, witli 
 the surrounding country. 
 
 At the far extent of the bay are three magnificent Ice- 
 bergs, of a greenish colpur, covered with snow, rising out of 
 the water hke perpendicular cliifs, and are upwards of a 
 mile and a half in length, and JiJOS tee in height : they are 
 chained or frozen to the land, the creation of ages. The 
 internal part of the island of Spitzbergen, is entirely inac- 
 cessible; high mountains, with their summits towering above^ 
 the clouds; and deep glens, filled with eternal -row: my- 
 riads of the little Auks are flying between the mountains ; 
 imuteuse fragments of ice are on the foreground, in the cen- 
 tre, right and left ; the Dorothea's boat m the bay, with 
 part ot the crew shooting Polar Bears ;-f- the Bear in the 
 miUule supposed to be wounded : in the centre are two of 
 the Laurus Eburneus, or Ivory Gull. 
 
 The icebergs of Spitzbergeu are among the capital wonders 
 of the country, each fills the valleys for tracts unknown, in a 
 region totally inaccessible in the internal parts : the Glaciers of 
 Switzerland seem contemptible to these : one of these exhibits 
 over the sea, a front of 300 feet high, emulating the emerald in 
 colour. Cataracts of melted snow precipitate down various parts ; 
 and black spining mountains, streaked with white, bound the 
 sides, and rise crag above crag as far as the eye can reach in the 
 back ground ; at times, immense fragments break off and tumble 
 into the water, with a most alarming dashing. A piece of this 
 vivid surface has fallen, and grounded in 24 fathom, and spired 
 above the surface 50 feet Similar icebergs are common in all 
 the Arctic Regions, and to their lapse, is owing the solid 
 momitainotts ice which infest those seas, and so conspicuous in 
 every form and feature in this View. Masses have been seen 
 assuming the shape of a Gothic church, with arched windows, 
 and all the rich tracery of that style, composed of crystal of the 
 richest sapphirint: olue, tables of one or more feet ; and oflen 
 immense flat-ro(^'ed temples, like those of Luxor or the Nile, 
 
 -|> These animals have been known to grow to the enonnous length of four- 
 teen feet, and are found almost every where within die Arctic circle. They retire 
 during the winter to their icy dens, where they ara supposed to live in a torpid 
 state, until the sun appears above the horizon, when they stalk forth and devour 
 every thing they meet with. Nature has gifted them with an extraordinary 
 power of scent ; a piece of horse's fat set on fire on board the ships, was sure of 
 attracting some towards tlieni. They arc easily frightened ; but when attacked 
 or wounded, are exccssivi-ly fierce. Baientz teUs us of some of liis seamen bciQg 
 carried off and devoured by them* 
 
 bl 
 til 
 
» 
 
 X Ice- 
 out of 
 5 of a 
 ey are 
 The 
 f inac- 
 ; above^ 
 
 : my- 
 itains ; 
 tie cen- 
 f^ with 
 
 in the 
 ! two of 
 
 wonders 
 ^n, in a 
 iciers of 
 exhibits 
 lerald in 
 us parts; 
 )und the 
 ch in the 
 d tumble 
 :e of this 
 nd spired 
 on in all 
 the solid 
 icuous in 
 )een seen 
 windows, 
 tal of the 
 and often 
 the Nile, 
 
 ngth of four- 
 Thcy retire 
 ire in a torpid 
 h and devour 
 extraordinary 
 s, was sure of 
 rhen attacked 
 seenncn bciQi; 
 
 Supported by round transparent columns of cerulean hue, flout 
 by the astonished spectator. These icebergs, the creation of 
 ages, receive annually additional height, by the falling of sr.ow 
 and rain, which often instantly freezes, and more than repairs 
 the loss by the influence of the melting sun On the left, in the 
 distance, is Red Hill, so culicd from the colour of its soil ; and on 
 the right is Red Bay : on the south-west side of which are the 
 icebergs. It was in this bay the Dorothea und Trent were beaet 
 m the ice 14 days. 
 
 VIEW V. 
 
 The Islands named the Nortvai/Sf Cloven Cliff, and Vogel 
 Sang, with the adjacent countri/. 
 
 On the right in the distance, is Cloven Cliff, so named 
 by the earliest voyagers, from its appearance ; beyond Clo- 
 ven Cliif, more distant, is the Island named Vogel Sang, and 
 immediately on the left of Cloven ClifF, is one of the jslands 
 named the Norways. On the side of the Norway island 
 next the sea, were lately discovered 243 graves, with Dutch 
 inscrintiiius , and near them the ruins of places formerly 
 visei'. tor boiling oil in. Another group of Walrusses at the 
 bottom of the View. The sky on the right is intended to 
 give an idea of the storm rising, which tlie vessels encoun- 
 tered the day after their extrication from the ice. The sea 
 is beginning to rise on the right. 
 
 This view is most beautiful and picturesque; a vast bason 
 surrounded on all sides by islands of various forms, the sun gild- 
 ing the circumambiant ice, and dist^mt mountains. The forms 
 assumed by the ice in this chilling climate, are extremely pleas- 
 ing to even the most incurious eye ; the surface of that which is 
 congealed by the sea-water (for it must be allowed two origins), 
 in flat and even hard opakes, resembling white sugar, and in- 
 capable of being slid on like the British ice ; the greater pieces 
 or fields ai'e many leagues in length, the lesser are the meadows 
 of the seals, on which those animals at times frolic by hundreds ; 
 the motion of the lesser pieces is rapid as tlie current, the greater 
 (which are sometimes 200 leagues long, and 60 or 80 broad) 
 move slow and majestically, and at times are immoveable by the 
 power of the ocean, they then produce near the horizon that 
 bright appearance called the Blink of the ice. The approxima- 
 tion of two great fields, produces a most singular phenomenon ; 
 it forces the lesser (probably several acres square) out of the 
 water; and adds it to its surface, a second, and of. a third suc-^ 
 ceeds, so that the whole forms an aggregate of a tremendous 
 
10 
 
 height ; some of these are seen in the foreground of thia and the 
 preceding Views : these float on the sea like so many rugged 
 mountains, and are sometimes 500 or 6(t0 yards thick ; but the 
 far greater part is concea1e<l beneath the water. These are con- 
 tinually increased in height by the freezing of the spray of the 
 sea, or the melting of the sea which falls on them. In the cen- 
 tre of this view are the Two Islands called the Norways, and on 
 the right is 
 
 Cloven Cliff. — Tl^is remarkable promontory, so called by the 
 earliest voyagers, from its cloven appearance, is the north- 
 western extremity of Spitzbergen, and is that point of land to 
 which the barrier of ice is usually connected ; and on the extreme 
 right is 
 
 Vogel Sang. — This island comparatively luxuriant to the rest, 
 is covered with a variety of lichens, which afford nourishment 
 to numerous reindeer. These elegant animals were found in a 
 very fine condition : the fat on their loins being seven inches in 
 thickness. The sky in this part of the Panorama represents the 
 ttorm rising in the S. W. which the vessels encountered the 
 following day. 
 
 VIEW VI. 
 
 T*he dreadful situations of the Dorothea and Trent encountering 
 the tremendous storms which compelled them to return home. 
 
 On the left is the Dorothea, in tremendous contact with 
 the ice, she is partly heeled over. On the right is the more 
 perilous situation of the Trent, nearly on her beam ends, 
 from the violence of the gale, and the sea ; immense pieces 
 of ice, many hundred thousand tons weight, are tossing in all 
 directions ; the sky dark, and the sea at a prodigious height: 
 the whole displaying a scene of awful grandeur and sublimity 
 beyond description. 
 
 The next day the Dorothea and Trent were in an open sea, 
 steering to the westward, elated with hopes of future success. 
 A few hours, however, had scarcely elapse<l, when the sea rose 
 to a prodigious height, and the gale that had long been gathering, 
 raged with such unexampled fury, that every sail was furled. 
 At this critical moment, the ice was seen so close to leeward, as 
 to hold out little probability of weathering it ; and presented a 
 prospect so truly terrific, that but slender hopes of saving the 
 vessels were entertained. Every rfTort was, however, made to 
 keep off ; every sail was set that the vessels could possibly carry, 
 and each little change of wind taken advantage of: but all 
 would not avail. Ihe ships, half buried in the sea, fast ap- 
 proached the margin of the ice^ which presented a scene of hor- 
 
 i 
 
 r 
 
11 
 
 md the 
 rugged 
 >ut the 
 ,re con- 
 of the 
 he cen- 
 and on 
 
 by the 
 north- 
 land to 
 extreme 
 
 the rest, 
 •ishment 
 nd in a 
 nches in 
 gents the 
 ered the 
 
 mntering 
 n home. 
 
 tact with 
 the more 
 Etm ends, 
 186 pieces 
 jing in all 
 IS height: 
 sublimity 
 
 1 open sea» 
 re 8uccesf. 
 tie sea ruse 
 gathering, 
 was furled, 
 leeward, as 
 presented a 
 saving the 
 sr, made to 
 jsibly carry, 
 of: but all 
 ea, fast ap- 
 cene of hor- 
 
 ror far beyond the power of language fully to describe. From 
 the violence of the waves, immense pieces of ice, many hundred 
 thousand tons weight, were tossed about in all direction, or 
 hurled one against the other. Floes, of several acres in extent, 
 were rent asunder, or crumbled to atoms ; the sea, at the same 
 time, broke over them with such fury, that the whole was buried 
 in foam. This action of the sea, with the collision of the ice, 
 and violence of the wind, occasioned such a noise, that no human 
 "voice could possibly be heard. Such was the formidable body 
 the ships momentarily expected to encounter. To allow them 
 to be ilrivrn broadside on, would have instantly proved fatal to 
 all on board : the only alternative then remained to place the 
 bow between the outer pieces, and, by a press of sail, endeavour 
 to force past them, and penetrate so far, that in the event of the 
 vessels going down, the crews might save themselves upon the 
 ice. This dreadful and only expedient being determined upon, 
 the after-sail was lowered, the helm placed a-weather, and, in 
 less than a minute, the vessels came in tremendous contact with 
 the margin of the ice; through which, by the strength of the 
 "wind, and violence of the sea, they forced a passage. Unfortu- 
 nately, however, the next sea drove in with such violence against 
 ' their sterns, as to bring them broadside to ; where they remained 
 for some time, being thrown from piece to piece ; and striking 
 so hard, that their rudders were smashed, the vessels stove, and 
 their timbers cracking incessantly. In this situation, the provi- 
 sions and boats were prepared for putting on the ice ; when, 
 after a short time, a more favourable change took place. A piece 
 of ice f. '.'. twelve feet thick, which had impeded the progress of 
 tlie Trent inward, was, by a blow of the stem, split in two, and 
 the vessel pansed between the fragments, whera she received 
 such protection as yet to hold out hopes of her safety. 
 
 By four in the afternoon the gale abated, and the Trent forced 
 her way out : the Dorothea had suffered too much to risk the 
 trial. Nevertheless, both ships were in a clear sea early next 
 morning ; but, being so shattered as to render their continuance 
 at sea unsafe, steered for the port of Smeerenburgh, where they 
 anchored early on the morning of the 1 st of A ugust. This port 
 not proving sufnciently safe to admit of the vessels undergoing a 
 repair in it, they were moved to a more favourable one, called 
 South Gat, which was found by the boats dispatched for that 
 purpose. 1'his is the best harbour yet discovered in Spitzbergen: 
 It is surrounded by Ioi\y pyramidal mountains ; the vallies be- 
 tween being filled with snow and itcbcrgs. Here the largest 
 one seen iii Spitzbergen was formed: its width being upwards 
 of a mile and a half, its extent backward two or three more, und 
 height full 300 feet, its front, of a most beautiful berylinc 
 blue, was nearly perpendicular, and wrought into the most fan- 
 ciful forms. In one part was a cave of one hundred feet in 
 width, fifty in heigiit, und of great depth. 
 
■: I 
 
 12 
 
 The mountains, though they wear so barren an appearance at" 
 a distance, are, on a near approach, found to be covered with 
 moss, on which grow several very diminutive plants: none, 
 however, exceed six inches in height. Amongst them were 
 noticed ranunculusses, poppies, and scurvy grass. 
 
 During the stay of the ships in this port, important observa- 
 tions were made ; by which the length of a pendulum, vibrating 
 seconds in so high a latitude, was obtained. The dip of the 
 needle was found to exceed that of England 11°: the former 
 being 82°, the latter 71°. The variation, ascertained to be 24* 
 30' W., being very nearly the same as in England. The lati- 
 tudes and longitudes of the principal headlands were found by 
 celestial observations ; and a trigonometrical survey of the islands 
 and N. W. coast of Spitzbcrgen, was carefully taken. 
 
 By the 30th of August, the ships had undergone such tempo- 
 rary repair as to enable them to proceed to England, though 
 not to prosecute the voyage. The breeze favouring, they sailed 
 out through the southern passage, made the ice, and traced it 
 along to the westward. On the 15th of September, they were 
 so near to the coast of lost Greenland (as laid down in the best 
 charts,) that they momentarily expecteid to see it, having every 
 indication of their near approach. The sea was smooth, and 
 somewhat changed in colour ; the sea-fowl were become more 
 numerous, and several land-birds seen. The anxiety to make 
 this coast, so many years bound in chains of ice, was truly great; 
 but, in the mortification of every one, the thick fog, which for 
 several days had enveloped the ships, continued: a gale, at the 
 same time, came on, which obliged the ships, in their shattered 
 condition, to bear up for England, and relinquish every further 
 attempt to penetrate the barrier with which they liad so long 
 contended. 
 
 VIEW VII. 
 
 CAPTAIN Ross's VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY FOR A NORTH-\^EST 
 
 PASSAGE. 
 
 Subject — The Isabella^ Captain Ross^ and the Alexander, com- 
 manded by Lieutenant Parry^ at the new discovered land in 
 Baffin s Bay, named by Captain Ross the Arctic Highlands. 
 Captain Rosa, Lieutenant Parry, Saccheuse the Esquimaux, 
 and some of the Crew, in conference with the natives, S[c 
 
 In the left centre of tiiis View, is the Isabella, Capt. Ross, 
 ninde fast to the ice ; beyond which, more dir^tant, is the 
 Alexander, Lieutenant Parry ; on the other side of which, 
 are tlie hills of the Arctic Highlands ; in the foreground are 
 groupes of the natives, with their sledges and dogs ; Cnptaia 
 Ross and Licutonau !. I'arry arc presenting tlicm with looking- 
 
 f 
 
13 
 
 uK-fl at 
 
 [1 with 
 
 none, 
 
 1 were 
 
 bserva- 
 
 bratinjf 
 
 of the 
 
 former 
 
 be a*** 
 
 he lati- 
 
 •und by 
 
 e islands 
 
 tempo- 
 though 
 ey sailed 
 traced it 
 ley were 
 the best 
 ng every 
 joth, and 
 icne more 
 r to make 
 uly great; 
 which for 
 lie, at the 
 • shattered 
 ■ry further 
 id so long 
 
 |RTH->»EST 
 
 anrfer, com- 
 red land in 
 Highlands. 
 Esquimauxg 
 ivesy <Src 
 Capt. Ross, 
 mU is the 
 i of which, 
 ^ground are 
 ;s; Captain 
 'ith looking- 
 
 glasses, knives, 5:c ; their astonishment is extreme, at be- 
 holding tlieir faces in the mirrors ; others of the natives are 
 Hogging their dogs to preserve order. 
 
 The Isabella and Alexander sailed from the Downs about the 
 middle of April 181 S. On the 30th, they reached Lerwick in 
 Shetland : and on June 9th, they were in the vicinity of Disco 
 island. 
 
 June 10th. At noon (says the Journal of the Voyage) we fell 
 in with several ships employed in the whale fishery, one belong- 
 ing tu Dundee, the rest to Hull ; they had all been successful. 
 The Governor of the whale islands had informed them that the 
 ice had broken up and frozen again no less than three times this 
 season. This fleet of whalers was seen running through the 
 channel from whence we had come, in hopes of finding a passage. 
 June 1 1th. In the afternoon we hoisted our colours and pen- 
 dent, in compliment to the Danish Flag on whale islands. 
 
 June 14th. At six we fell in with loose ice, and continued 
 sailing through it; firm ice was seen westward. 
 
 We proceeded next day steering along the edge of the main 
 ice, a firm field stretching from north to south ; we sailed on 
 between large floes, and among loose ice, which, as we advanced, 
 became more tremendous, and move closely packed, till at length 
 we had only a narrow and crooked channel for our passage. 
 
 At' eight we saw a ridge of icebergs of every variety and 
 shape that can be imagined, and took sketches of them as they 
 appeared. 
 
 June 17. Waygatt, or Hare Island, was now bearing east of 
 us. We found here forty-five ships employed in the whale 
 fishery, all detained by the ice; and as there appeared little 
 chance of our getting farther for some days, I determined to 
 turn our attention to the best account, and prepared for making 
 observations on shore. 
 
 June 20. Our Esquimaux returned with seven natives in 
 their canc' i or kajuchs, bringing a small supply of birds. 
 
 Their village lying on the south of the bays, appears to con- 
 sist of a few imts made of seal skins, sufficient fur the residence 
 uf about fifty persons. Being desirous of procuring a sledge and 
 dogs, I ofl'ered them a rifle musket for one completely fitted, 
 which they promised to fetch ; with much honesty of principle, 
 however, refusing to accept the rifle till they had brought the 
 sledge ; they soon returned, bringing the sledge and dogs in a 
 boat managed by five women, dressed in deer skins ; the boat 
 was called an umiack, and rowed by the women standing. 
 
 In the early part of the day, July 1 8th, a large bear was seen 
 making towards the ships ; one of the Alexander's men, who 
 Was straying at some distance on tlie ice, first discoveretl the 
 Minimal, und went to nu'(>t it, but so(»n perceiving he wa« no 
 
H 
 
 B'll 
 
 ill 
 
 ' 
 
 i' .li 
 
 11 
 
 14 
 
 match for its ftrocity, he prudently halted, till Messrs Beverlcj-, 
 Skene, and Ross, with some seamen, joined in the attack ; tlic 
 bear made off on their approach, and they had a tedious hunt 
 after it in vain. 
 
 When the weather cleared, we had the pleasure of seeing land; 
 the ship was immediately under sail, and passing several miles 
 in that direction, we fell in with seven whalers, which had got 
 a-head of us while we were beset : we received a message from 
 one of them, the Everthorpe, requesting surgical assistance for 
 the master, whose thigli harl been severely lacerated by a 
 wounded bear, which had attacked and dragged him out of tlie 
 boat ; the animal was pierced by three lances before it would 
 relinquish its grip, when, disengaging itself from the weapons, 
 it swam to the ice, and made off. The poor man though sadly 
 torn, was happily not considered to be in a dangerous state. 
 
 July 30th. It being calm, (says Captain Ross,) I sent ft boat 
 after a whale, which appeared to be particularly marked, being 
 black and white ; he was sonn liarpooned by the Isabella') boat; 
 the first harpoon striking him on the back, a little behind the left 
 fin, and at first appearing to be effectual ; the boat was then car- 
 ried to the edge of the ice, and several lines veered away, bjit 
 after holding a long time, it was perceive<l that he had escaped, 
 but he soon after appeared, about a mile and a half in distance, 
 with the harpoon on his back, being then a loose fish. As he re- 
 mained near the surface, and appeared to suffer from the wound^ 
 the young officers of both ships, who each commanded boats, 
 pulled with emulation to the spot where each expected him to rise, 
 waiting for the moment of his appearance with anxiety. For- 
 tune favoured Mr James Ross, the animal rising nearest to his 
 boat, in which the harpooner enfixed his weapon with a deadly 
 aim, following it by a third and fourth, which made the captive 
 certain : he was now much exhausted, and obliged to remain near 
 tlie surface, thereby exposing himself to the lances ; the blood, 
 at intervals flowing from his wounds, and being thrown up in 
 volumes as he rose to breathe ; at length, becoming exhausted, 
 he had only strength to make a last but terrible struggle. 
 
 August the 6th. — W hile standing off and on, we liad good 
 observations. At half past two, a small opening was seen, 
 wliich, together with the motion of the ice, gave us hopes 
 of forcing a passage : I determined to attempt it, and the weath- 
 er proving fine, the ships were tracked with great difficulty 
 through about a mile of bay ice, to the narrowest of a floe, which 
 obstructed our passage into a pool a-head ; the usual resort was 
 had to sawing, but our labours were soon stispended by the dis- 
 covering of a passage a little to the eastward ; to this therefore 
 we warped the ships through the loose and bay ice, and thus 
 managed to proceed about a mile further. Here we obtained 
 good observations and the bearings of the land. 
 
 beJ 
 
 tail 
 
1 
 
 a 
 
 crlcj-, 
 
 the 
 
 hunt 
 
 land; 
 miles 
 ad got 
 e from 
 ice for 
 by a 
 of tlie 
 would 
 eapons, 
 sadly 
 ite 
 t 
 
 I, 
 
 ^ boat 
 being 
 ^'5 boat; 
 
 the left 
 then car- 
 )vay, bjit 
 
 escaped, 
 distance, 
 As he re- 
 le wound, 
 led boats, 
 im to rise, 
 ity For- 
 rest to his 
 h a deadly 
 he captive 
 emain near 
 the blood, 
 rown up in 
 exhausted, 
 
 ;gle. 
 
 ; Ivad good 
 was seen, 
 e us hopes 
 I the weath- 
 at difficulty 
 1 floe, which 
 il resort was 
 I by the dis- 
 his thercfovc 
 ce, and thus 
 we obtaint'd 
 
 The ships had made very little progress, when we were eur- 
 prised by the appearance of several men on the ice, who were 
 hallooing, (as we imagined) to the ships ; the first impression was, 
 that they were shipwrecked sailors, probably belonging to some 
 vessel that had followed us, and had been crushed in the last 
 gale ; we therefore tacked, hoisted our colours, and stood in for 
 the shore. On approaching the ice, we discovered them to be 
 natives drawn in rudely fashioned sledges by dogs, which they 
 continued to drive backwards and forwards with wonderful ra- 
 pidity. When we arrived within hail, Saccheuse called out to 
 them, in hie own language ; some words we heard in return, to 
 which a reply was again made by the Esquimaux, but neither 
 party appeared to be in the least degree intelligible to the other. 
 For some time they continued to regard us in silence, but on the 
 ships' tacking, they set up a sinuiltaneous shout, accompanied 
 with many strange gesticulations, and went off in their sledges 
 with amazing velocity towards the land. After they had attained 
 tlie distance of a mile or more, they halted for about two hours; 
 as soon as this was observed, the ship was tacked, and a boat 
 sent to place an observation stool of four feet in height, on the ice, 
 on which various presents, consisting of knives and articles of 
 clothing were letl. Either, however, they did not see it, or it 
 did not attract their attention, and a second boat was therefore 
 sent, with directions to leave one of the Esquimaux dogs with 
 some strings of blue beads round his neck, near the same place. 
 It being necessary to examine if there was a passage in tlu9 
 place, wc took the opportunity of their absence to stand towards 
 the head of the pool, which was about four miles oiF, trusting, 
 that in the mean time they would return to the same spot, to 
 which it was also our intention to come back, after examining 
 into the chances of a passage northward. No opening was how- 
 ever found, and we therefore returned, after an absence of ten 
 hours. The dog was found sleeping on the spot where we left 
 him, the presents remaining untouched. A single sledge was 
 shortly after observed at a great distance; but it immediately 
 drove off with great rapidity. 
 
 Being extremely anxious to communicate with the natives, I 
 caused a pole to be prepared, on which a flag was flxed, with a, 
 representation of the sun and moon, pointing over a hand holding 
 a sprig of heath, (the only shrub seen on the shore) This pole 
 being carried to an iceberg, midway between the ships and the 
 shore, was there erected, and a bag containing presents, with the 
 device of a hand pointing to a ship, painted on it, was fastened 
 to the pole within reach, and left there ; the ships in the mean 
 time, being moored in a convenient situation for observing what 
 might take place. 
 
 The gale had now entirely subsided, the weather became 
 beautiful, and the water calm ; circumstances that necessarily de- 
 tained up in our present situation ; which notwithstanding the 
 
16 
 
 iijii 
 
 I . 
 
 It .1 
 
 II 
 
 imperious nature of our orders to proceed with all possible di«i» 
 patci], -ve should have been unwilling to leave, while any chance 
 of a cummunicHtion with a people hitherto unkno>^ n, remained. 
 
 August 10. Myriads of the little awks surrounded us, and af- 
 forded some sport, while they proved no less a treat *^o the 
 pe«)ple. 
 
 y\bout 10 o'clock this day, we were rejoiced to see eighi 
 sledges, driven by the natives, advancing by a circuitous route 
 towards the place where we lay ; they halteil about a mile from 
 us, and the people alighting, ascended a small iceberg, as if to 
 reconnoitre. After remaining apparently in consultation for 
 nearly half an hour, four of them descended and came towards 
 the flag-staff, which, however, they did not venture to approach ; 
 in the mean time, a white flag was hoisted at the main in each 
 ship, and John vSaccheuse dispatched, bearing a small white flag, 
 with some presents, that he might endeavour, if possible, to 
 bring them to a parley. This was a service which he had most 
 cheerfully volunteered, requesting leave to go unattended and 
 unarmed, a request to which no objection could be made, as the 
 place chosen for the meeting was within half a mile of the 
 Isabella: it was equally advantageous to the natives, a canal, 
 or small chasm in the ice, not passable without a plank, se- 
 parating the parties from each other, and preventing any possi- 
 bility of an attack from these people, unless by darts. 
 
 In executing this service, Saccheuse displayed no less address 
 than courage. Having placed his flag at some distance from 
 the canal, he advanced to the edge, and taking off his hat, made 
 friendly signs for those opposite to approach as he did ; this they 
 partly complied with, halting at a distance of 300 yards, where 
 they got out of their sledges, and set up a loud simultaneous 
 halloo, which Saccheuse answered by imitating it. They ven- 
 tured to approach a little nearer, having nothing in their hands 
 but the whips with which they guide their dogs ; and, after sa- 
 tisfying themselves that the canal was impassable, one of them in 
 particular, seemed to acquire confidence. Shouts, words, and 
 gestures, were exchanged for some time to no purpose, though 
 each party seemed, in some degree to recognize each other's 
 language, Saccheuse, after a time, thought he could discover 
 that they spoke the Humookc dialect, drawing out their words, 
 however, to an unusual length. He immediately adopted that 
 dialect, and holding up presents, called out to them, Kahkcitc, 
 " Come on ;" to which they answered, Naakrie, naakrieai-plaite, 
 " No, no — g^Q away ;" and other words which he made out to 
 mean, that they hoped we were not come to destroy them. 
 
 The boldest then approached to the edge of the canal, and 
 drawing from his boot a knife, re|)eated " Go away ! I can kill 
 you." Saccheuse not intimidated, told them he was also a man, 
 nnil a friend; and at the same, threw across the canal some 
 strings of beads, and a checked shirt ; but these they beheld 
 
17 
 
 e cli«i» 
 hance 
 ained. 
 ind at- 
 ♦o the 
 
 ? eighi^ 
 8 route 
 le from 
 
 as if to 
 ion for 
 towards 
 iproach ; 
 
 iti each 
 liite flag, 
 5sible, to 
 \mu\ most 
 ided and 
 le, as the 
 le of the 
 , a canal, 
 f)lank, se- 
 any possi- 
 
 ess addvcs3 
 tance from 
 3 hat, made 
 i ; this they 
 irds, where 
 imvdtaneous 
 
 They ven- 
 
 their hands 
 
 nd, after sa- 
 
 ,e of them m 
 
 words, and 
 pose, though 
 
 each other's 
 mV\ discover 
 
 their words, 
 
 adopted that 
 lem, Kahkette, 
 
 s »Tiade out to 
 oy them, 
 the canal, and 
 ^y ! 1 can UiU 
 vas also a man, 
 the canal some 
 se they beheld 
 
 m 
 
 with great distrust and apprehension, still cAWing, " Go away, 
 don't kiM Us." Saccheuse now thr?w them an English knife, 
 saying, " Take that." On this they approached with caution^ 
 picked up the knife, dien shouted and pulled their noses ; these 
 actions were imitated by Saccheuse, who, in return called out, 
 " Heigh, ynn !" pulling his nose with the same gesture. They 
 now pointed to the shirt, demanding what it was ; and when 
 told it was an article of clothing, asked of what skin it was 
 made. Saccheuse replied, it was made of the hair of an animaV^ 
 which they had never seen : on which they picked it up with 
 expressions of surprise. They now began to ask many ques- 
 tions; for, by this time they found the language spoken by 
 themselves and Saccheuse had sufficient resemblance to enable 
 them to hold some communication. 
 
 They first pointed to the ships, eagerly asking " What great 
 creatures those were ? Do they come from the sun or the moon > 
 Do they give us light by night or by day ?" Saccheuse told them 
 he was a man, that had a father and mother like tliemselves; < 
 and, pointing to the south, said that he came from a distant 
 country, in that direction. To this they answered, ** That cannot 
 be; there is nothing but ice there " They again asked, " What 
 creatures these were }" pointing to the ships : to which Saccheuse 
 replied, that " They were houses made of wood." This they 
 seemed still to discredit, answering, " No, they are alive, we have 
 seen them move their wings." Saccheuse now inquired of them, 
 what they themselves were ; to which they replied, they were 
 men, and lived in that direction, pointing to the north; that 
 there was much water there ; and that they had come here to 
 fish for sea unicorns. It wac then agreed that Saccheuse should 
 pass the chasm to them ; and he accordingly returned to the ship 
 to make his report, and to ask for a plank. During the whole 
 of this conversation, I had been employed with a good telescope 
 in observing their motions, and beheld the first man approach 
 with every mark of fear and distrust, looking frequently behind 
 to the other two, and beckoning them to come on, as if for sup- 
 port; they occasionally retreated, then advanced again, with 
 cautious steps, in the attitude of listening, generally keeping one 
 hand down by their knees, in readiness to pull out a knife which 
 they had in their boots ; in the other hand they held their dog 
 wb'ps with the lash coiled up ; their sledges remaining at a little 
 distance, the fourth man being apparently stationed to keep 
 them in readiness for escape. Sometimes they drew back the 
 covering they had on their heads, as if wishing to catch the 
 most distant sounds; at which time J could discern their 
 features, displaying extreme terror and amazement, while every 
 limb appeared to tremble as they moved. Saccheuse was direc- 
 ted to entice them to the ship, and two men were now sent 
 with a plank, which was accordingly placed across the chasm. 
 They appeared still much alarmed, and. requested that Saccheuse 
 
18 
 
 m 
 
 :;';i|i 
 
 If ' ' 
 
 only should come over : he accordingly passed to the opposite 
 side, on which they earnestly besought him not to touch them ; 
 as, if he did, they should certainly die. After he had used many 
 arguments to persuade them that he was flesh and blood, the 
 native who had shewn most courage, ventured to touch his hand ; 
 then pulling himself by the no&e, set up a shout in which he was 
 joine<l by Saccheuse and the oUier three. The presents were 
 then distiibuted, consisting of tw6 or three articles of clothing, 
 and a few strings of beads, after which Saccheuse exchanged a 
 knife for one of theirs. The hope of getting some important 
 information, as well as the interest naturally felt for these poor 
 creatures, made me impatient to communicate with them myself; 
 and I therefore desired Lieutenant Parry to accompany me to 
 the place where the party were assembled, it appearing to me 
 that Saccheuse had failed in persuading them to come nearer the 
 ships. We accordingly provided ourselves with additional pre- 
 sents, consisting of looking glasses and knives, togetlier with 
 some caps and shirts, and proceeded towards the spot, where the 
 conference was held with increased ^energy. By the time we 
 reached it, the whole Avere assembled ; those who had originally 
 been left at a distance with other sledges, having driven up to 
 join their comrades. The party now, therefore, consisted of 
 eight natives, with all their sledges, and about fifty dogs, two 
 sailors, Saccheuse, Lieutenant Parry and myself — forming a 
 group of no small singularity ; not a little also increased by the 
 peculiarity of the situation — on a field of ice far from the land. 
 The noise and clamour may be easily conceived, the whole talk- 
 ing and shouting together, and the dogs howling while the na- 
 tives were flogging Uiem with their long whips to preserve order. 
 Our arrival produced a visible alarm, causing them to retreat a 
 few steps towards their sledges ; on this Saccheuse called to us 
 to pull our noses, as he had discovered this to be the mode of 
 fKendly salutation with them. This ceremony was accordingly 
 performed by each of us— the natives, during their retreat, mak- 
 ing use of the same gestures, the nature of which we had not 
 before understood. In the same way we imitated their shouts 
 as well as we could, using the same interjections. Heigh, yaw ! 
 which we afterwards found to be an expression of surprise and 
 pleasure. We then advanced towards them while they halted, 
 and presented the foremost with a looking glass and a knife, re- 
 peating the siime presents to the whole as they came up in suc- 
 cession. On seeing their faces in the glasses, their astonishment 
 appeared extreme, and they looked round in silence for a moment 
 at each other and at us ; immediately afterwards they set up a 
 gei.wTal shout, succeeded by a loud laugli, expressive of extreme 
 delight as well as surprise, in which we joined, partly from in- 
 ability to avoid it, and willing also to shew that we were pleased 
 with our new acquaintances. 
 
 The impression made by this ludicrous scene, on Saccheuse, 
 was so strong, that some time ofter he made a drawing of it. 
 
19 
 
 osite 
 kem; 
 nany 
 , the 
 land ; 
 e was 
 
 were 
 thing, 
 ged a 
 tortant 
 le poor 
 (nyself; 
 
 me to 
 t to me 
 arer the 
 nal pre- 
 jer with 
 here the 
 time vre 
 
 irigina^ly 
 en up to 
 
 isisted of 
 logs, two 
 orming a 
 sed by the 
 I the land, 
 vhole talk- 
 ile the na- 
 lerve order, 
 to retreat a 
 ailed to us 
 he mode of 
 accortUngly 
 etreat, mak- 
 we had not 
 their shouts 
 Heigh, yaw! 
 surprise and 
 they halted, 
 d a knife, re- 
 le up in fiuc- 
 astonishment 
 for a moment 
 hey set up a 
 ive of extreme 
 jartly from in- 
 e were pleased 
 
 on Saccheuse, 
 drawing of it. 
 
 being the first specimen we had witnessed of his talents for histo- 
 rical composition. His practice in the art of design, which he had 
 cultivated, in addition to all the other branches of knowledge en- 
 grafted on his Esquimaux education, having hitherto been limited 
 to copying such prints of single figures or ships, as he could 
 procure, as he never received any hint or assistance in this per- 
 formance. Having now at- length acquired confidence, they 
 advanced, offering, in return for our knives, glasses, and beads— 
 their knives, sea unicorns' horns, and sea-horse teeth, which were 
 accepted. They were then instructed by Saccheuse to uncover 
 their beads, as a mark of good will and respect to us ; and with 
 this ceremonial, which they performed immediately, and of 
 which they appeared to comprehend the meaning, our friendship 
 became established. One of them having inquired what was 
 the use of a red cap which I had given him, Saccheuse placed it 
 on his head, to the gi'eat amusement of tlie rest, each of whom 
 put it on in his turn. The colour of our skins became next a 
 subject of much mirth, as also the ornaments on the frames of 
 the looking glasses. The eldest of them, who was also the one 
 who acted as leader, addressing himself to me, now made a long 
 speech, which being ended, he appeared to wait for a reply, I 
 made signs that I did not understand him, and called for Sac- 
 cheuse to interpret ; he thus perceived that we used different 
 languages, at which his astonishment appeared extreme, and he 
 expressed it by a loud Heigh, yaw ! As Saccheuse's attempt to 
 procure the meaning of this oration seemed likely to fail, and as 
 we were anxious to get them to the ship as soon as possible, I 
 desired him to persuade them to accompany us. They accor- 
 dingly consented — on which their dogs were unharnessed and 
 fastened to the ice, and two of the sledges were drawn along the 
 plank to tlie other side of the chasm ; three of the natives being 
 left in charge of the dogs and the remaining sledges ; the other 
 five followed us, laughing heartily at seeing Lieutenant Parry 
 and myself drawn towards the ship <hi the sledges, by our sea- 
 men. One of them by keeping close to me, got before his com- 
 panions, and thus we proceeded together, till we arrived within 
 a hundred yards of the ship, where he stopped. I attempted to 
 urge him on, but in vain — his evident terror preventing him 
 from advancing another step, till his companions came up. It 
 was apparent that he still believed the vessel to be a living crea- 
 ture, as he stopped to contemplate her, looking up at the masts, 
 and examining every part with marks of the greatest fear and 
 ■ astonishment; he then addressed her, crying out in words per- 
 fectly intelligible to Saccheuse, and in a loud tone, " Who are 
 you ? what are you .'' where do you come from ? is it from the 
 sun or the moon ?" pausing betweei> every question, and pulling 
 his nose with the utmost solemnity. The rest now came up in 
 succession, each shewing similar surprise, and making use of the 
 same expressions, accompanied by the same extraordinary cere- 
 nxony. Saccheuse now labouiecl to assure them, that the ship 
 
 > 
 
mmm 
 
 20 
 
 ^:!il: 
 
 was only a wooden house, and pointed out the boat, which had 
 bern hauled on the ice to repair; explaining; to them that it waK 
 a smaller one of the same kind. This immediately arrested their 
 attention. They advanced to the boat, examined her, as well as 
 the carpenters' tools, and the oars, very minutely; each object 
 in its turn, exciting the most ludicrous ejaculations of surprise. 
 We then ordered the boat to be launched into the sea, with a 
 man in it, and hauled up again, at the sight of which they set no 
 bounds to their clangour. The ice anchor, a heavy piece of iron 
 shaped like the letter S, and the cable, excited much interest; 
 the former they tried in vain to remove, and they eagerly inquired 
 of what skins the latter was made. By this time the officers of 
 both ships had surrounded them, while the bow of the Isabella, 
 which was close to the ice, was crowded with the crew ; and, 
 certainly, a more ludicrous, yet interesting scene, was never be- 
 held than that which took place whilst they wei'e viewing the 
 ship ; nor is it possible to convey to the imagination, any thing 
 like a just representation of the wild amazement, joy, and fear, 
 which successively pervaded the conntena:ices, and governed the 
 gestures of these creatures, who gave full vent to their feelings ; 
 and I am sure it was a gratifying scene, which never can be tor- 
 gotten by those who witnessed and enjoyed it. Their shouts, 
 halloos, and laughter, were heartily joined in, and imitated by 
 all hands, as well as the ceremony of nose pulling, which could 
 not fail to increase our mirth on the occasion. Tiiat which most 
 of all excited their admiration, wa$ the circumstance of a sailor 
 going aloft ; and they kept their eyes on him till he reached the 
 summit of the mast. The sails whicli hung loose, they natu- 
 rally supposed were skins. Their attention being again called to 
 the boat, where the carpenter's hammer and nails still remained, 
 they were shown the use of these articles; aid no sooner were 
 they aware of their purposes, than they shewed a desire to pos- 
 sess them, and were accox'dingly presented with some nails. 
 They now accompanied us to that part of the bow from which a 
 rope-ladder Mas suspended, and the mode of mounting it was 
 shown tl em , but it was a considerable time ere we could prevail 
 on them to ascend it; at length the senior, who always led the 
 way, went up, and was followed by the rest. The new wonders 
 that i)ow surrounded tliem on every side caused fresh astonish- 
 ment, which, after a inoment's suspense, always terminated in 
 loud and hearty laughter. The most frequent ejaculation of 
 surprise was Heigh, t/aw ! and when particularly excited by any 
 more remarkable object than the rest, they pronounced the first 
 syllable of the interjection many times, ;with peculiar rapidity 
 and emphasis, extending wide their arms, and looking at each 
 other at the end of the exclamation, with open mouths, as if in 
 breathless consternation. Their knowledge of wood seemed to 
 be limited to some heath of a dwarfish growth, witli stems no 
 thicker than the finger; and accordingly they knew not whu^ tu 
 
iil 
 
 had 
 wa« 
 heir 
 "Was 
 bject 
 prise, 
 ith a 
 jet no 
 f iron 
 erest ; 
 [juired 
 cers of 
 abella, 
 ; and, 
 ver be- 
 ing the 
 y thing 
 nd tear, 
 rned the 
 eeUngs ; 
 n be for- 
 r shouts, 
 tated by 
 ch could 
 liich most 
 f a sailor 
 ached the 
 :hey natu- 
 n called to 
 remained, 
 joner were 
 sire to poa- 
 jome nails, 
 om which a 
 ling it was 
 ould prevail 
 ays led the 
 lew wonders 
 Bsh astonish- 
 jrminated in 
 jaculation of 
 ncitedbyany 
 need the first 
 uliar rapidity 
 iking at each 
 BUths, as if i»^ 
 ,od seemed to 
 ivith stems no 
 ;w not what to 
 
 ihink of the timber they saw on hoard. Not being aware of its 
 weight, two or three of thcin successively seized on the spurn 
 top-mast, evidently with a view of carrying it oft"; and as soon 
 as they became familiar with the people around them, they shew- 
 ed that desire of possessing what they admired, which is so uni- 
 versal among savages. 'I'he only thing they looked on with 
 contempt, was a little terrier dog, judging no doubt that it was 
 too small for drawing a sledge ; but they shrunk back as if i:i 
 terror, from a jiig, whose pricked ears antl ferocious aspect, being 
 of tlie Shetland breed, presented a somewhat formidable appear- 
 ance ; this animal happening to grunt, one of them was so terri- 
 fied, that he becsinie from that moment imeasy, and appeared 
 impatient to get out of the ship. In carrying his purpose into 
 effect, however, he did not lose his propensity to thieving, as he 
 seized and endeavoured to carry off tlie smith's anvil : finding: 
 that he could not remove it, he laid hold of the large hammer, 
 threw it on the ice, and following it himself, deliberately set it 
 on his sledge and made off. As this was an article I could not 
 spare, I sent a person to recover it, wlio followed him hallooing, 
 and soon got pretty near him : seeing tiiat he must be overtaken, 
 he artfully sunk it in the snow, and went on with the sledge, by 
 which we were convinced, that he knew he Avas doing wrong. 
 The seaman on finding the hammer, left off the pursuit, and 
 returned, while he went off and was seen no more that da)'. Short- 
 ly after, another of them who hail received a present, consisting 
 of a small hammer and some nails, left the ship also, putting his 
 acquisitions upon the remaining sledge, dragged it away with 
 liim, and disappeared. 
 
 Among other amusements afforded to the officers and men on 
 board, by their trials on the inexperience of the natives, was the 
 effect produced on them, by seeing their faces in a raagnitVing 
 mirror. Their grimaces were highly entertaining, while, like 
 monkeys, they looked first into it, and then behind, in hopes of 
 finding tlie monster which was exaggerating their hideous ges- 
 tures. A wfltch was also held at the ear of one, who, snpposing 
 it alive, asked if it was good to eat. On being shewn the glass 
 of the sky-light and binnacle, they touched it, and desired to 
 know what kind of ice it was. During this scene, one of them 
 wandered to the main hatchway, and stooping down, saw the 
 Serjeant of marines, whose red coat produced a loud exclamation 
 of wonder, while his own attitude and figure did not less excite 
 the surprise of our tars, who, for the first time, discovered some 
 unexpected peculiarities in the dress of the natives. 
 
 The three men remaining, were now !;^nded down to my 
 cabin, and shewn the use of the chairs, which they did not com- 
 prehend, appearing to have no notion of any other seat than the 
 ground. Being seated, we attempted to take their portraits, in 
 which Lieutenant Hopner, Mr Skene, Mr Bushnan, and myself, 
 were at the same time employed. During this attempt, fearful it 
 
n 
 
 might alarm them, vre amused them with questions, collecting, 
 from tlieni, at the same time, the information we thought it de- 
 sirable to obtain ; and directing Saccheuse to ask those questions 
 which the hurried nature of this visit permitted us to recollect 
 as most essential, and of which the result will appear hereafter. 
 Our drawings being completed, and interrogatories ended, they 
 began to be very inquisitive, asking the use of every thing in the 
 cabin. We shewed them papers, books, drawings, and various 
 mathematical instruments, which produced only the usual effect 
 of astonishing them ; but on being shewn the prints in Cook's 
 Voyage of the natives of Otaheite, they atten^pted to grasp them, 
 evidently comprehending that they were the representations of 
 human beings. The sight of a writing desk, a bureau, and of 
 other wooden furniture, also excited their astonishment, but ap- 
 parently from the nature of the materials only, as they seemed to 
 form no idea of their uses. They were now conducted to the 
 gun.room, and afterwards round the ship, but without appearing 
 to distinguish any thing particularly, except the wood in her 
 construction, stamping on the deck, ;, if in evident surprise at 
 the quantity of the valuable material. In hopes of amusing them, 
 the violin was then sent for, and some tunes were played ; they, 
 however, paid no attention to this, seeming quite unconcerned 
 either about the sounds or tlie performer ; a sufficient proof that 
 the love of music is an acquired taste, and that it requires experi- 
 ence to distinguish between that and similar noises. A flute was 
 afterwards sounded for them, which seemed to exact somewhat 
 more attention ; probably from its resembling, more nearly in 
 shape, the objects to which they were accustomed ; one of them 
 put it to his mouth, and blew on it, but immediately threw it 
 away. On returning to the cabin, some biscuit was produced, 
 and a piece eaten by Saccheuse, before presenting it to them. One 
 of them then took a piece also into his mouth, but almost imme- 
 diately spat it out with apparent disgust Some salt meat, that 
 was afterwards offered, produced the same effect. We now also 
 ascertained their names, that of the eldest Ervick, and that of 
 the two others, who were his brother's sons, Marshuick and 
 Otooniah. Some jugglers' tricks were afterwards exhibited by 
 Mv lUni-rley, which seemed to disconcert them, as they became 
 uneasy, and expressed a wish to go on deck; we accordingly 
 aeeompaiiied them, and by pointing to the pieces of ice that were 
 alongside, attempted to discover to vhat extent they could count, 
 for the purpose of ascertaining the numbers of their tribe: we 
 found, however, they could only reckon to ten ; and on inquiring, 
 therefore, if their country possessed as mair inhabitants, as there 
 were pieces of ice, tliey replied, " Many more," a thousand 
 fragments were perhaps then floating round the ship. The 
 knives had, by this time, been examined by the armourer, who 
 thought they were made from pieces of iron hoop, or from flat- 
 toned nails ; we therefore asked if any plank or wreck had 
 
S8 
 
 iormerly been driven on their shore ; to which they replied, that 
 u piet'f of wood with some nails had come on shoic, nud ''een 
 picked up ; we therefore concluded, that the knives which they 
 had left with us, had been tormeJ from this iron, and conse- 
 quently made no further inquiries They were now loaded with 
 various presents, consisting of some articles of clothing, biscuit, 
 and pieces of wood, in addition to which, the plank that had 
 been used in crossing the chasm was given to them. They then 
 departed, promising to return as £oon as they had eaten and 
 slept, as we had no means of explaining to them what Uvmorrow 
 meant. The parting was attended with the ceremony of pulling 
 noses on both sides. After they had reached and crossed the 
 chasm, they were observed by some men who had been sent to 
 accompany them, throwing away the biscuit, and splitting the 
 plank, which was of teak, into small pieces, for the purpose of 
 divi<ling it among the party. Soon after this they mounted their 
 sledges^ and drove off in a body, hallooing apparently in great glee. 
 
 were 
 :ount, 
 we 
 
 VIEW VIII. 
 
 Subject — Criinaon Cliffs — Captain Ross, Lieutenant Parry, 
 SaccheusCj and part of the crews, playing at foot-ball with 
 the natives. 
 
 On the ice, in the foreground of the view, are Capt. Ross, 
 Lieut. Parry, Saccheuse the Esquimaux, and part of the 
 crews, with groupes of the natives, kicking at each other an 
 inflated seal skin bag, behind which are more of the natives 
 taking care of the sledges. In the middle distance, are the 
 Crimson Clifis, so named from the snow on them being of 
 a deep crimson colour ; behind the cliffs, at a considerable 
 distance, are high mountains covered with snow of the na- 
 tural colour. 
 
 August 11. The drifting of the ice this morning, (continues 
 the Journal) apprised us of an approaching southerly breeze, and 
 made pur situation no longer tenable ; we were therefore obliged 
 to cast loose, and, ailter pass'ng through several narrow channels, 
 and much loose ice, we au anced seven miles further to the 
 westward, and fortunately found a place of safety^ under the lee 
 of a very large iceberg, which lay aground in 150 fathoms. No 
 sooner were both ships fast, than an immense floe of ice, with 
 two small bergs in it, came into contact with the large berg, the 
 corner of which was raised several feet ; a huge piece of the 
 j[)recipice was struck off by the concussion, and fell widt a 
 dreadful crash, breaking the ice below it, and raising a wave 
 that rent the floe in pieces for several hundred yards, and made 
 the ships roll considerably. 
 
u 
 
 A bottle, containing an accuunt of our proceedings, was here 
 left on tlie floating ice. 
 
 We also found, what Saccheuse had forgotten to tell us before, 
 that the iron was procured from a mountain near the shore. 
 They had informed him, that there was a rock of it, or more, 
 (for it could not at this time be ascertained which) and that the 
 pieces from which the blades of their knives were made, were 
 cut off by means of a sharp stone. We now, therefore, had much 
 reason to regret, that the party which landed on the spot which 
 Mr Bushnun had determined to be an island, on the morning of 
 the 8th, had not proceeded further, and that they di(i not exaniine 
 the mountains where it now appeared that this iron was ibuiid. 
 
 August 13. The ice was now closing in upon us, the weather 
 had every appearance of a gale, and we lost no time in seeking 
 a place of shelter, which we were fortunate enough to find close 
 to an iceberg, that was firmly secured to the land ice : in this 
 there was a small bay, in which we were made fast, and were 
 very soon beset as we expected. 
 
 During the three last days, we had seen a vast number of 
 whales, which sometimes came up alongside of the ship to res* 
 pire, and did not seem at all alarmed : we saw also some sea 
 unicorns, and in the mornings and evenings, the pools of water 
 were literally swarming with awks, hundreds of which were 
 daily shot. 
 
 We had not remained long at our new moorings, before we 
 were gratified by the appearance of three of the natives at a 
 diatance. Preparations were acccordingly made for continuing 
 our intercourse, if they should prove to be the same that had 
 been with us, or for obtaining a parley if they should turn out 
 to be strangers. 
 
 The flag-staff, as on a former occasion, was, therefore pitched 
 at some distance from the ships, and the natives were shortly 
 seen to approach it, without much hesitation or alan^i. I'hey 
 were observed to take down the bag which was attached to it ; 
 but after examining the contents, they restored them to their 
 place, and returned to their sledges. Saccheuse was then fur- 
 nished with presents, and sent to speak with them. He found 
 immediately that they were not our old friends, but other natives, 
 who had received from them a good report of us, together with 
 the history of our being people that lived beyond the ice, and 
 that this had prevented any alarm at our appearance. 
 
 On receiving this account, I went with Lieutenant Parry to 
 the place of communication, and perfor-med the ceremonies aU 
 ready described, asf^uring them of our friendship, and inviting 
 them on board— it being propose J that they should drive close 
 to the ships on their sledges : the eldest got into his sledge for 
 this purpose, and we hud thus an opportunity of witnessing 
 the mode in which he managed his dogs. These were six in 
 number, each having a collar of soul skin, two inches wide, to 
 
 <* 
 
25 
 
 were 
 
 ^vhich tlie one end of the thonjr« made of strong hide, about 
 three yards long, was tied, tlie other end being fastened to the 
 fore i)art of the sledge ; thus they all stood nearly a-breast, each 
 drawing by a i^ingle trace, without reins. No sooner did they 
 hear the crack of the wliip. than they ^et off at full spi;ed, while 
 he seemed to manage them with the greatest ease, guiding them 
 partly by his voice, and partly by the sound of the whip ; on 
 approaching our sailors, however, they became so terrified, that 
 it was with some difficulty they could be stopped. They werfc 
 at length fastened to the ice, and one of the younger men, who 
 had come up behind, was left in charge of the whole. They 
 were much delighted with the presents that were now given 
 them ; but as it appeared that they had seen those which we had 
 given to the first party, their surprise was not to be compared to 
 that which we had already witnessed. In return, I received a 
 spear made of the sea unicorn's horn, with a sledge, made chiefly 
 of the bones of the seal, tied together with thongs of seal skin, 
 the runners, or lower pieces, being formed of sea unicorn's horns. 
 I also purchased from them a dog, but with some difficulty, as 
 they seemed very averse to part with it. I chose the one which 
 appeared to Mr Parry and me the handsomest. On examining 
 them, we found that three of them had lost each an eye ; these, 
 as the natives inforund us, having been accidents from the lash 
 of the whip. The dog was bound, and led on by one of the 
 sailors to the ship. The animal was some time afterwards unfor- 
 tunately washed overboard in a gale. 
 
 The other two natives now accompanied us to the ship, and 
 were much astonished at every thing they saw ; but it was evi- 
 dent that they had been prepared to see wonders by our former 
 visitors, as they were by no means so clamorous. 
 
 They came in the smnmer season to catch seals and sea uni- 
 corns, and to procure iron, and returned when the sun left 
 them. We inqui'-ed respecting the iron with which their knives 
 were edged ; they informed us, that it was found in the mountain 
 before mentioned ; that it was in several large masses, of which 
 one in particular, which was harder than the resrt, was a part of 
 the mountain, that the others were in large pieces above ground, 
 and not of so hard a nature ; that they cut it off with a hard stone, 
 and then beat it flat into pieces of the size of a sixpence, but of 
 an oval shape. As tlie place where this metal was found, which 
 is culled Sowallick, was at least twenty-five miles distant, and 
 the weather was very unsettled, I could not venture to send another 
 party to examine it, being uncertain how scmn we might be for- 
 ced from our present situ uon. I therefore offered high rewards, 
 and pressed them to bring us some spei-imcns of it, which they 
 nuulily premised, but never performed. They all shewed the 
 fame dislike to bread and spirits us the others. 
 
 When on deck, and almut to leave us, they pointed to their 
 houses, which were oppo<sitc to the ship, about three miles distant, 
 
 <: 
 
26 
 
 awd could be discerned with tlie telescope. They informed us 
 that the headland we saw farthest to the north, wJiich \v;is six 
 miles off, was called Inraaiiick, and that on the other side of it 
 there was clear sea. Having made them presents consisfting of 
 a small harpoon, with some pieces of iron and of wood, 1 repeated 
 my entreaties that they would bring- specimens of their non. 
 They promised to return with it when they had eaten and slept, 
 together with more of their countrymen, when they departed 
 highly pleased. 
 
 14th. The weather continuing clear, we had good azimuths, 
 and several c ervations on the deviation of the magnetic needle, 
 were also made. In the mean time, the boats were sent to pro- 
 cure \vater-fowl: they returned with three hundred of the little 
 awks, which were as usual served to the ship's company. 
 
 At two in the afternoon, a party of ten natives were seen ap- 
 proaching the ship on their sledges. Mr Parry, Sacchcuse, .and 
 myself went out to meet them ; and among them were glad to 
 recognize three of those with whom we had first communicated, 
 and the one «vho had purloined the hannner. They now came 
 forward, not only without alarm, but without ceremony — both 
 the pulling of noses, and the shakinji' of hands being dispensed 
 with ; and having with them a seal skin made into a bag, and 
 filler! with ;iir, they began to kick it at each other and at us. hi 
 this play we heartily joined, to the great amusement of both 
 parties. i'his toot-ball was the buoy of their harpoon, and we 
 fountl they had killed a sea unicorn during the night, about three 
 miles to the south-eastward of the ship^ ; we immediately asked 
 for its horn, to which they replied it was a female and had none. 
 We now invited them to the ship, and they accompanied us 
 witliout hesitation. They were, however, no sooner on board, 
 than they proceeded both to beg and to steal, laying hands on 
 every small piece of w«km1 they met with, and pocketing every 
 rail they could find aliout the ship. I ])rocured from them a 
 sledge of the same description as the former, and a couple of 
 knives ; they also gave me a piece of drieil sea unicorn's flesh, 
 which appeared to have been parched or half roasted, as it bore the 
 marks of fire. I attempted in vain to procure another dog from 
 them, but they could not be persuaded to part with him. One 
 of them who had a bag full of awks, took out one in our jiresence, 
 and devoured it raw ; but on being asked if this was a common 
 practice, they informed us, that they only cat them in this stale 
 when they had no convenience for cookery. 
 
 We also learnt that the water was clear of ice on the northern 
 side of the Cape; intelligence which could not fail to raise our 
 spirits with the hopes of making some progress as soon as we 
 vere able to move from our present position. 
 
 August the 17th. This morning being clear, I sent to an ice- 
 berg to obtain aznnuths, but owing to the attraction of the boat, 
 ^vhich had ice-anchors on board, no satisfactory result was 
 
27 
 
 N, 
 
 obtiilned. We now discovered that tlie snow on the face of tlie 
 cliffs, presented an Jip])e;ii;ince both iiovel and interesiinjr, being 
 apparently stained, or covered, by .s»nne substance v^hich gave it 
 a deep crimson colour. Many conjectures were fornied concern- 
 ing the cause o*' tliis appearance. It was at once determined that 
 it coulil not arise from the dung of birds, as thousands of these, of 
 various descriptions, were seen repeatedly sitting on the ice, and 
 on the snow, but without producing any such ellect. 
 
 At two P. M. it fell nearly calm, and I sent a boat with Mr 
 Ross, Mr Beverley, and a party, to bring off some of the snow, 
 ami to make their remarks on the circumstances attending it: 
 also to procure specimens of the animal, vegetalilc, and mineral 
 kingdoms, and to ascertain if tliis part of the country was iiilia- 
 bited : tiie boat arrived at the shore, nearly at low water, and 
 found the tiile had fillen nine feet. The party remained two 
 hours on shore, and found the cliffs accessible at the spot where 
 thev landed, but they did n.')t get to the top, being recalled iu 
 consequence of a breeze wliich spr.ung up. ihey >vere equally 
 unsuccessful in meeting with natives, or their habitations, as in 
 procuring specimens of the black fox, many of which they saw 
 juul fired at, but without effect. They found the snow was pene- 
 trated even down to the rock by the colouring matter — a ileptli 
 often or twelve feet, and that it had the appearance of being a 
 long time in that state. We examined the snow by a microscope, 
 magnifying a hundred and ten times ; and the substance appeared 
 to consist of particles resembling a very minute round s.-'cd, 
 which was of the same size, and deep red colour : on some of the 
 particles a small dark speck was also seen. It was the general 
 opinion of the oflicers, that it must be vegetable, and tliis opinion 
 .seemed to gain strengtli, by the nature of the places where it was 
 found. These were the sides of the hills, about six hundred feet 
 high, the tops of which were covered with vegetation of a yel- 
 lowish-green and reddish-brown colours. The extent of these 
 cliffs were al)f)ut eight miles ; behind tliem at a considerable dis- 
 tance, high mountains «ere seen, but the snow which covered 
 these was not coloured 
 
 In the evening, I cuised some of the snow to be dissolved and 
 bottled, when the water had the appearance of muddy port vine. 
 In a few hours it deposited a sediment, which was examined by 
 the microscope: some of it was bruised, and found to be com- 
 posed wholly of red matter: when ap|)lied to paper, it j)rodiiced 
 a colour resembling that of Indian red. I)r W'ollaston seems to 
 concur in that which we orisinally held, of its being a vegetable 
 substance, produced on the mountain immediately above it. It 
 cannot be a marine prodiu'tion, as in several places we saw it at 
 least" six miles from the sea, but always on the face or near the 
 foot of a mountain. 
 
 'A'hatover n.y own notions respecting tlie real nature of the 
 epace passed over in th'j foregoing run, from Cape Saumarez to 
 
as 
 
 Cape Clarence, might have been, and whatever my own e.\])ec- 
 tations were, aa to tlie probabih'ty of an opening in this direction, 
 the ardour existing at home for the discovery of a north-west 
 passage, and the cotifidence with Avhich the supposed situation 
 of such an opening has been transferred to one spot, as fast as it 
 has been found not to exist in another, render it necessary to re- 
 capitulate the circumstances which disprove its existence in this 
 place, which forms the northermost extremity of Baffin's Bay. 
 
 On the 19th of August, at fifty minutes past midnight, the 
 ship being nearly on the seventy- seventh degree of north lati- 
 tude, ten leagues to the westward of Cape vSaumarez, which 
 forms the east side, and the bottom of this bay, the land was 
 distinctly seen. On the 20th and 21st, when off Cape Clarence, 
 at the distance of six leagues, the land which forms the west side, 
 and the bottom ot this bay, was also distinctly seen by the officers 
 and myself, and by these two observations the coast is determined 
 to be connected all round. At each of these periods, this im- 
 mense bay was observed to be covered with field ice ; besides 
 which, a vast chain of large icebergs was seen to extend across 
 it. These were apparently aground, and had probably been 
 driven on shore there by southerly gales. It was also observed, 
 that the tide rose and fell only four feet, and that the stream was 
 scarcely perceptible. 
 
 From these several considerations, it appears perfectly certain, 
 that the land is here continuous, and that there is no opening at 
 the northernmost part of Baffin's Bay, from Hackluit's Island to 
 Cape Clarence. Even if it be imagined that some narrow Strait 
 may exist through these mountains, it is evident, that it must 
 for ever be unnavigable, and that there is not even a chance of 
 ascertaining its existence, since all approach to the bottoms of 
 these bays is prevented by the ice which fills them to so great a 
 depth, and appears never to have moved from its station. 
 
 Being thus satisfied th.it there could be no further inducement 
 to continue longer in this place, and it being necessary to husband 
 the little time yet remaining, for the work which was still to be 
 done, I shaped my course, on the morning of the 21st, towards 
 the next opening which appeared in view to the westward. 
 
 Several copper cylinders, containing- an account of our pro- 
 ceedings, were left on the floating ice, when we left the bay. 
 
 IINIS.