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Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clichA, il est filmA A partir de i'angle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite. et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. by errata ned to ent une peiure, fagon A 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 :^&^' :■'» -'-X'-'^'l DESCRIPTION OF Messrs MARSHALL'S GRAND P£RISTR£PHIC PANORAMA OF TH£ POLAR REGIONS ; TVUICa DISPLAYS THE NORTH COAST or NOW EXHIBITING IN THE >^»^" ynr nrnr,rrT i,n iii^nnT^^y nrrrm^^ Painted from Dnwings taken by Lieut. Beechct, who ACCOMPANIED THE POLAR EXPEDITION IN 1818; And Messrs Ross and Saccheitse, who accompanied TIIF. EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER A NORTH-WEST PASSAGl^ Where undissolving from the first of time. Snows swell on snows amazing to the sky ; And icy mountains high on mountains piled. Seem to the shivering saiior from afar. Shapeless and white, an atmosphci« of clouds, Projected huge and horrid o'er the surge. LEITH: PRINTED OY WILLIAM IIBRIOT, QUALITY STREET. 1831. ^ricc Sixpence, TO UR HAD AT THE PANORAM.<t. DESCRIPTION OF TUE Nortlj ©oaisit A Spitiftierfien, &c. VIEW I. Subject — The Dorothea, Captain Buchan, in the vicinity of Cloven Cliff, forcing her way to the edge of the Barrier of Ice, <S*c. On ^e left of the spectator, is the Dorothea, Captain Buchan, in tlie act of forcing her way to the edge of the barrier. She is supposed to be nippedi between two floes of ice, which are closing, and inclining her over, on one side ; on the other side of the Dorothea, in the distance, is part of the barrier of ice, which extends from Spitzbergen to Greenland ; on the right, in the foreground, arc Captain Buchan and Lieutenant Franklin, consulting together on their future proceedings ; beyond whom, a little to the left, are Mr Fisher the Astronomer, and other officers, making observations on the latitude, longitude, variation of the com- pass, and dip of the needle, previous to their departure to the westward, in which quarter it was determined again to seek a passage, and In the event of failure, to proceed round South Cape to the eastward of Spitzbergen : on the extreme right over a huge piece of ice, are some of the Larus Glacu- ous, or Glacuous Gull.* In the foreground are immense masses of ice, fragment upon fragment, some of them higher than the main mast, beautifully illuminated with the rays of the sun,-{* which is seen above the horizon. ■ ■■■ ■! IIIM . I ■■■Ml 11 — ^^^^^^.^— ^■^■M [■■■I 11 ■ ! ■■■ — ^— — ^^^w^i^W^— ll^l^M^M^^Wi— * This elcgftTit bird, called by the Dutch, Burger Meister, being the muter of all other sea-fowl within the Arctic Regions, builds its nest in high dilTs, and preys on dead whales, and small birds. They seldom stray far from the land or ice, are constantly on the wing, and not often seen to associate with each other. ^ The sun sets no more here after the 3d of May, when distinction of day and night is lost From the raiddJe jof August, the power of the sun declines; it sets fast in September— day is then hardly distinguishable ; and, by tlic middle of (,)ctober, the sun ta^es a long leave of this dreadftil country ; tlie bays become iVozen, and Winter reigns triumphant. The sun never appears again till about ^le 3d of Fcl^ruary, leaving this dreary country four monttis in dvkn«s8. 4 The interest exeitcil by the equipment of the late expedition towards tlie North Pole, was of so general a nature, that there is scarcely an indivichial who is not fully in possession of its purport ; but, as no narrative of this voyage has Iiitherto appeared before the public, the following brief account of the operations of the ships, and descriptions of the country they visited, may not prove uninteresting. . The Dorothea and Trent, under the orders of Capt. Buchan, quitted £ngland early in May 1818 ; and with favourable winds, pursued their course to the northward. As they advanced the weather became considerably colder ; and, ere they had reached the eightieth parallel of latitude, the ships were cased in ice. The continuation of the sun above the horizon, however, soon dispelled this severity of climate ; and the thermometer fluctua- ted between 40° and 28° Fahrenheit, during the remainder of the summer. Few obstacles presenting themselves, the island of Spitsber- gen was approached on the 26th of May. This island, first dis- covered by William Barentz, in the year ISp*, lies between the seventy-sixth and eighty-firKt parallels of latitude, or nearly 400 miles north of Norway. Its shores at first present a true picture of dre:irine8S and desolation .* the principal objects which attract the attention, are craggy \ :< ^otains, with tlieir summits tower- ing above the clouds ; deep gtens filled with eternal snows ; and stupendous icebergs. The eye, hpwever, soon becomes fami- liarized to such a scene, and the mind is filled with admiratioi^ of the grandeur and magnificence of its objects. VIEW II. The Trentf commanded by Lieutenant Franklint far in the IcCf the crew endeavouring to extricate her by carrying out ropes, iSfc.—'Grey Hook, Red Beach^ «S*c. In the left centre of this view is the Trent, still far in the ice, from her not being of sufficient weight to separate the pieces, she is just pressed by two fields of ice, ana, in con^ sequence, lifted up several feet, and heeling over ; the crew are endeavo'iring to extricate her by carrying out ropes, ice anchors, &r . Beyond the Trent in tlic distance, along the horizon, is the continuation of the icy barrier, extending from Spitzbergen to Greenland ; the promontory of land on the right in the distance, where you lose sight of the icy barrier, is named Grey Hook. The yellow tint over the horizon, behind the Trent, and extending to Grey Hook, is intended to represent the Ice unil B (lition ; there of its peared rations 1, may uclian, winds, :ed the reached in ice. »r, soon fluctua- nder of pitzber- Rrst dis- fcen the irly 400 B picture h attract 8 tower- ws; and les fami- Imiratioq ir in the n/ing out Par in the arate the , in con- the crew 'opes, ice ilong tho xtending r of land [it of the rent, and t the Ice BUnk, a phenomenon always seen over any compact aggi'e* gation of ice, whenever the horizon is tolerably free from clouds. It is evidently occasioned by the rays of light strik- ing on the snowy surface of the ice, and being reflected into the superincumbent air, where they become visible; but the light which falls on the sea is in a great measure absorbed ; hence the openings occurring in a body of ice are seen in the atmosphere, reflected with the blink, prodticing a perfect map of the ice and water in the air. Ste Scoresby ore Polar Ice. — On the extreme right is Red Beach ; on the foreground on the left is the Larus Arcticus^ or Arctic Gull ;* to the right of which, among some gigantic fragments of ice, are Alca Alle, or Little Awks;"f* a little to the right are some of the Puffin Awks ; J in the centre of the view, on some ice in the foreground, are the Larus Ebumeus, or Ivory Gull ; a little to the right of which are seen some Eider Ducks and Drakes; these birds are very numerous in the bays of Spitzbergen, to which place they migrate to breed ; they are celebrated for their luxurious down, now an extensive article of commerce in many parts of Europe ; beyond them are groups of Seals§ sporting on the ice ; on the wing are the Sterna Hirundai or Great Tern;|| ^"id on the extreme right is Red Beach. It was along the western shore of this uninhabited island, that the ships pursued an almost uninterrupted course, until they reached Cloven Cliff, or its northern boundary, where they found * This bird feeds on fish that have been caught by other birds, whom it per* secutes till they are obliged to drop their prey, which it catches with great dex- terity before it reaches the water ; they also display a good deal of cunning in watching the flight of ducks from their nests, when they instantly occupy them and devour the eggs. ■)■ These little birds are seen in such myriads in the Arctic Seas, as to baffle all description ; they make a continued chirruping noise which from their num- bers may be heard several miles ; they arc so stupid and easily frightened, that they frequently fly to the danger they wish to avoid, and tlius become an easy prey to the Seals, and other animals inliabiting those regions ; tliey nre about the size of a black-bird, dive well, are always putting their bill to the water as if drinking, grow fat in stormy weather, and in Newfoundland are called the Ice Bird, being the harbinger of ice. X ^ec Pcnn. Arc. Zoo. Vol. ii. p. 511. § These amphibuous animals are so well known as to render any description unnecessary. II This graceful little binl surpasses in its plumage every other species of the featheied tribe, found within the Arctic Itcgions. Nature has provided them with such sharp bills, and they are so remarkably active, that they fearlessly dart upon birds of much larger size, and without ceremony rob them of any food they may have collected, and may thus be said to tyrannize and lord it over every other kind of bird except the Burger Mcistcr They have even courage enough to attack the human species, if their nests arc molested by them. 6 that immense barrier of ice, vrhich has littherto prescribed limits to discovery, and frustrated every exertion to reach the Pole. This vast body, composed principally of floes, that vary in thickness from fitteen to sixty feet below the surface of the wa- ter, was what the ships had to contend with. Twice they were led into it by flattering prospects, and each time were beset. '^ The first time, they were witliin two miles of the shore, and in such shoal v^ater that the rocks were plainly to be seen. The second, after penetrating to 80** 14' N. the floes closed upon them and they became immoveable. These discouraging circumstances, though they threw a damp (ipoh the most sanguine expectations, served but to redouble the ardour of every officer and seaman ; and, finding the sails alone were insufficient to force a passage, the laborious operation of dragging the vessels through witli ropes, and ice anchors, waa resorted to— an experiment never before made, and now attempt- ed with the determination of leaving nothing undone that might affiird the slightest prospect of accomplishing the important en- tcrprize in view. At first this fatiguing duty was rewarded with some degree of success ; difficulties, however, increased as the vessels proceeded, till at length, the compactness of the ice was such, that they could neither advance nor recede. Thus closely wedged on all sides by boundless plains of ice, extending as fur as the eye could reach, the greatest anxiety was manifested in looking for- ward to some change, that should either admit of the vessels proceeding, or enable them to retrace their steps, and seek a passage in some more favourable t}uarter. None, however, appeared until the 25th of July, when some channels of water were descried to the southward, into which the ships, aided by a northerly wind, soon forced their way ; and, after four days combating with the ice, against which they were frequently struck with a violence that caused them to re- coil with the concussion, and which nothing but their extraor- dinary strength could withstand, the sea was announced from the mast-head, to the unspetikable joy of every one on board. Thus, on the evening of the 29th July, they again found themselves in clear water, after having penetrated full forty miles within the icy barrier, and having been twenty-two days beset among it ; their situation frequently critical ; the ice press • ing with such force against the ships, that the compression rose many parts of the decks, and twisted the pannels of the doors in their frames : sometimes lifting the ships several feet, and often causing them to lie over very considerably on their side. * A ship is said to be beset in the ice, when the pieces furm a body so compact as to preclude the possibility «f moving her. limits ole. /ary in he wa- y were beset.* aitd in The m them a damp uble the Is alone ation of ors, was attempt- it might rtant en- legree of ■oceecled, hat they ed on all I the eye iking for- le vessels td seek a 'hen some ito which lieir way; rhich they liem to re- ir extraor- nced from I board. ;ain found full forty ;-two days e ice press- ession rose he doors in , and often ide. )dy so compait It is tlieir approach to the margin of the ice, on the evening of their extrication, which is intended to be represented by this and the foregoing views : when a diversity of scenery was ob- servable, that appeared well calculated to convey a general idea of the nature of the Arctic Regions. VIEW III. Hed Hill, Red BeucK Red Bay, ^c. with the surrounding sublime Scenery ^ peculiar to this frozen climate. On the extreme left is Red Hill, on the right of which is Red Beach^ so named from the colour of their soil : this appears to be the extreme point reached bjr most voyagers. The Hon Captain Phipps, however, after three attempts, succeeded in passing it. It was off this land the Dorothea and irent were beset in the ice for 14 days: on the ice on the left are some of the crew belonging to the Trent, killing Walrusses.* Immense fragments of ice are in the fore- ground on the right, on which are two of the crew ; the boat belonging to the Trent supposed to have put them on the ice ; immediately over which is a whale breathing : on the wing, in the center of the View, is the Fulmar Petrel, or Storm Fowl -f- The Black Gulliemot, or Diving Pigeon, on and over the ice. * These hideous animals have been known to attain the length of eighteen fee(^ and girth twelve or thirteen. The head is small, and so connected to the neck as to appear a continuation of the latter ; the eyes are small, and sunk into the head ; their lips are fat, and beset with long bristles ; the skin, wliich is about an inch thick, hangs in folds or wrinkles, particularly about the neck, and is covered with a short bristly hair, of a dirty yellow or greenish tint \ their legs are shott, and feet like those of the seaL These monsters are very numerous about Spitzbergen, and are generally seen collected in groupes, on pieces of floating ice, where they lie huddled togedier, bellowing, or rather grunting like swine, some rolling and others scratching themselves. Sometimes the whole groupe ftdl asleep, with the exception of one, who is set on the watch ; he, however, frequently dozes ; and, at such times they may be easily approached, and killed With a bayonet or lance. The motliers invariably provide for the safety of their young in preference to their own, by plunging it into the sea, even though they should be badly wound« ed. A striking instance of affection was also manifested by a young one towards its mother, who, on seeing its parent killed by the crew, was so exasperated, that the little monster singly attacked the boat ; and, though repeatedly wounded, would not desist, but crawled upon the ice after the men, until a lance entering its heart terminated its existence. f This Bird every where abounds within the Arctic circle, and has even been seen in the southern hemisphere by the celebrated Cook. They keep chiefly in the high seas, feeding on dead whales, or whatever ofiers on the surftfce, but will with their strong bills pick the fat out of tiie bucks of the living whales, especially of the wounded, whose bloody track they follow by hundreds, t» watch its risinf. VIEW IV. the continuation of Red Bay, three magm/cent Iceberg*, witli the surrounding country. At the far extent of the bay are three magnificent Ice- bergs, of a greenish colpur, covered with snow, rising out of the water hke perpendicular cliifs, and are upwards of a mile and a half in length, and JiJOS tee in height : they are chained or frozen to the land, the creation of ages. The internal part of the island of Spitzbergen, is entirely inac- cessible; high mountains, with their summits towering above^ the clouds; and deep glens, filled with eternal -row: my- riads of the little Auks are flying between the mountains ; imuteuse fragments of ice are on the foreground, in the cen- tre, right and left ; the Dorothea's boat m the bay, with part ot the crew shooting Polar Bears ;-f- the Bear in the miUule supposed to be wounded : in the centre are two of the Laurus Eburneus, or Ivory Gull. The icebergs of Spitzbergeu are among the capital wonders of the country, each fills the valleys for tracts unknown, in a region totally inaccessible in the internal parts : the Glaciers of Switzerland seem contemptible to these : one of these exhibits over the sea, a front of 300 feet high, emulating the emerald in colour. Cataracts of melted snow precipitate down various parts ; and black spining mountains, streaked with white, bound the sides, and rise crag above crag as far as the eye can reach in the back ground ; at times, immense fragments break off and tumble into the water, with a most alarming dashing. A piece of this vivid surface has fallen, and grounded in 24 fathom, and spired above the surface 50 feet Similar icebergs are common in all the Arctic Regions, and to their lapse, is owing the solid momitainotts ice which infest those seas, and so conspicuous in every form and feature in this View. Masses have been seen assuming the shape of a Gothic church, with arched windows, and all the rich tracery of that style, composed of crystal of the richest sapphirint: olue, tables of one or more feet ; and oflen immense flat-ro(^'ed temples, like those of Luxor or the Nile, -|> These animals have been known to grow to the enonnous length of four- teen feet, and are found almost every where within die Arctic circle. They retire during the winter to their icy dens, where they ara supposed to live in a torpid state, until the sun appears above the horizon, when they stalk forth and devour every thing they meet with. Nature has gifted them with an extraordinary power of scent ; a piece of horse's fat set on fire on board the ships, was sure of attracting some towards tlieni. They arc easily frightened ; but when attacked or wounded, are exccssivi-ly fierce. Baientz teUs us of some of liis seamen bciQg carried off and devoured by them* bl til » X Ice- out of 5 of a ey are The f inac- ; above^ : my- itains ; tie cen- f^ with in the ! two of wonders ^n, in a iciers of exhibits lerald in us parts; )und the ch in the d tumble :e of this nd spired on in all the solid icuous in )een seen windows, tal of the and often the Nile, ngth of four- Thcy retire ire in a torpid h and devour extraordinary s, was sure of rhen attacked seenncn bciQi; Supported by round transparent columns of cerulean hue, flout by the astonished spectator. These icebergs, the creation of ages, receive annually additional height, by the falling of sr.ow and rain, which often instantly freezes, and more than repairs the loss by the influence of the melting sun On the left, in the distance, is Red Hill, so culicd from the colour of its soil ; and on the right is Red Bay : on the south-west side of which are the icebergs. It was in this bay the Dorothea und Trent were beaet m the ice 14 days. VIEW V. The Islands named the Nortvai/Sf Cloven Cliff, and Vogel Sang, with the adjacent countri/. On the right in the distance, is Cloven Cliff, so named by the earliest voyagers, from its appearance ; beyond Clo- ven Cliif, more distant, is the Island named Vogel Sang, and immediately on the left of Cloven ClifF, is one of the jslands named the Norways. On the side of the Norway island next the sea, were lately discovered 243 graves, with Dutch inscrintiiius , and near them the ruins of places formerly visei'. tor boiling oil in. Another group of Walrusses at the bottom of the View. The sky on the right is intended to give an idea of the storm rising, which tlie vessels encoun- tered the day after their extrication from the ice. The sea is beginning to rise on the right. This view is most beautiful and picturesque; a vast bason surrounded on all sides by islands of various forms, the sun gild- ing the circumambiant ice, and dist^mt mountains. The forms assumed by the ice in this chilling climate, are extremely pleas- ing to even the most incurious eye ; the surface of that which is congealed by the sea-water (for it must be allowed two origins), in flat and even hard opakes, resembling white sugar, and in- capable of being slid on like the British ice ; the greater pieces or fields ai'e many leagues in length, the lesser are the meadows of the seals, on which those animals at times frolic by hundreds ; the motion of the lesser pieces is rapid as tlie current, the greater (which are sometimes 200 leagues long, and 60 or 80 broad) move slow and majestically, and at times are immoveable by the power of the ocean, they then produce near the horizon that bright appearance called the Blink of the ice. The approxima- tion of two great fields, produces a most singular phenomenon ; it forces the lesser (probably several acres square) out of the water; and adds it to its surface, a second, and of. a third suc-^ ceeds, so that the whole forms an aggregate of a tremendous 10 height ; some of these are seen in the foreground of thia and the preceding Views : these float on the sea like so many rugged mountains, and are sometimes 500 or 6(t0 yards thick ; but the far greater part is concea1e<l beneath the water. These are con- tinually increased in height by the freezing of the spray of the sea, or the melting of the sea which falls on them. In the cen- tre of this view are the Two Islands called the Norways, and on the right is Cloven Cliff. — Tl^is remarkable promontory, so called by the earliest voyagers, from its cloven appearance, is the north- western extremity of Spitzbergen, and is that point of land to which the barrier of ice is usually connected ; and on the extreme right is Vogel Sang. — This island comparatively luxuriant to the rest, is covered with a variety of lichens, which afford nourishment to numerous reindeer. These elegant animals were found in a very fine condition : the fat on their loins being seven inches in thickness. The sky in this part of the Panorama represents the ttorm rising in the S. W. which the vessels encountered the following day. VIEW VI. T*he dreadful situations of the Dorothea and Trent encountering the tremendous storms which compelled them to return home. On the left is the Dorothea, in tremendous contact with the ice, she is partly heeled over. On the right is the more perilous situation of the Trent, nearly on her beam ends, from the violence of the gale, and the sea ; immense pieces of ice, many hundred thousand tons weight, are tossing in all directions ; the sky dark, and the sea at a prodigious height: the whole displaying a scene of awful grandeur and sublimity beyond description. The next day the Dorothea and Trent were in an open sea, steering to the westward, elated with hopes of future success. A few hours, however, had scarcely elapse<l, when the sea rose to a prodigious height, and the gale that had long been gathering, raged with such unexampled fury, that every sail was furled. At this critical moment, the ice was seen so close to leeward, as to hold out little probability of weathering it ; and presented a prospect so truly terrific, that but slender hopes of saving the vessels were entertained. Every rfTort was, however, made to keep off ; every sail was set that the vessels could possibly carry, and each little change of wind taken advantage of: but all would not avail. Ihe ships, half buried in the sea, fast ap- proached the margin of the ice^ which presented a scene of hor- i r 11 md the rugged >ut the ,re con- of the he cen- and on by the north- land to extreme the rest, •ishment nd in a nches in gents the ered the mntering n home. tact with the more Etm ends, 186 pieces jing in all IS height: sublimity 1 open sea» re 8uccesf. tie sea ruse gathering, was furled, leeward, as presented a saving the sr, made to jsibly carry, of: but all ea, fast ap- cene of hor- ror far beyond the power of language fully to describe. From the violence of the waves, immense pieces of ice, many hundred thousand tons weight, were tossed about in all direction, or hurled one against the other. Floes, of several acres in extent, were rent asunder, or crumbled to atoms ; the sea, at the same time, broke over them with such fury, that the whole was buried in foam. This action of the sea, with the collision of the ice, and violence of the wind, occasioned such a noise, that no human "voice could possibly be heard. Such was the formidable body the ships momentarily expected to encounter. To allow them to be ilrivrn broadside on, would have instantly proved fatal to all on board : the only alternative then remained to place the bow between the outer pieces, and, by a press of sail, endeavour to force past them, and penetrate so far, that in the event of the vessels going down, the crews might save themselves upon the ice. This dreadful and only expedient being determined upon, the after-sail was lowered, the helm placed a-weather, and, in less than a minute, the vessels came in tremendous contact with the margin of the ice; through which, by the strength of the "wind, and violence of the sea, they forced a passage. Unfortu- nately, however, the next sea drove in with such violence against ' their sterns, as to bring them broadside to ; where they remained for some time, being thrown from piece to piece ; and striking so hard, that their rudders were smashed, the vessels stove, and their timbers cracking incessantly. In this situation, the provi- sions and boats were prepared for putting on the ice ; when, after a short time, a more favourable change took place. A piece of ice f. '.'. twelve feet thick, which had impeded the progress of tlie Trent inward, was, by a blow of the stem, split in two, and the vessel pansed between the fragments, whera she received such protection as yet to hold out hopes of her safety. By four in the afternoon the gale abated, and the Trent forced her way out : the Dorothea had suffered too much to risk the trial. Nevertheless, both ships were in a clear sea early next morning ; but, being so shattered as to render their continuance at sea unsafe, steered for the port of Smeerenburgh, where they anchored early on the morning of the 1 st of A ugust. This port not proving sufnciently safe to admit of the vessels undergoing a repair in it, they were moved to a more favourable one, called South Gat, which was found by the boats dispatched for that purpose. 1'his is the best harbour yet discovered in Spitzbergen: It is surrounded by Ioi\y pyramidal mountains ; the vallies be- tween being filled with snow and itcbcrgs. Here the largest one seen iii Spitzbergen was formed: its width being upwards of a mile and a half, its extent backward two or three more, und height full 300 feet, its front, of a most beautiful berylinc blue, was nearly perpendicular, and wrought into the most fan- ciful forms. In one part was a cave of one hundred feet in width, fifty in heigiit, und of great depth. ■: I 12 The mountains, though they wear so barren an appearance at" a distance, are, on a near approach, found to be covered with moss, on which grow several very diminutive plants: none, however, exceed six inches in height. Amongst them were noticed ranunculusses, poppies, and scurvy grass. During the stay of the ships in this port, important observa- tions were made ; by which the length of a pendulum, vibrating seconds in so high a latitude, was obtained. The dip of the needle was found to exceed that of England 11°: the former being 82°, the latter 71°. The variation, ascertained to be 24* 30' W., being very nearly the same as in England. The lati- tudes and longitudes of the principal headlands were found by celestial observations ; and a trigonometrical survey of the islands and N. W. coast of Spitzbcrgen, was carefully taken. By the 30th of August, the ships had undergone such tempo- rary repair as to enable them to proceed to England, though not to prosecute the voyage. The breeze favouring, they sailed out through the southern passage, made the ice, and traced it along to the westward. On the 15th of September, they were so near to the coast of lost Greenland (as laid down in the best charts,) that they momentarily expecteid to see it, having every indication of their near approach. The sea was smooth, and somewhat changed in colour ; the sea-fowl were become more numerous, and several land-birds seen. The anxiety to make this coast, so many years bound in chains of ice, was truly great; but, in the mortification of every one, the thick fog, which for several days had enveloped the ships, continued: a gale, at the same time, came on, which obliged the ships, in their shattered condition, to bear up for England, and relinquish every further attempt to penetrate the barrier with which they liad so long contended. VIEW VII. CAPTAIN Ross's VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY FOR A NORTH-\^EST PASSAGE. Subject — The Isabella^ Captain Ross^ and the Alexander, com- manded by Lieutenant Parry^ at the new discovered land in Baffin s Bay, named by Captain Ross the Arctic Highlands. Captain Rosa, Lieutenant Parry, Saccheuse the Esquimaux, and some of the Crew, in conference with the natives, S[c In the left centre of tiiis View, is the Isabella, Capt. Ross, ninde fast to the ice ; beyond which, more dir^tant, is the Alexander, Lieutenant Parry ; on the other side of which, are tlie hills of the Arctic Highlands ; in the foreground are groupes of the natives, with their sledges and dogs ; Cnptaia Ross and Licutonau !. I'arry arc presenting tlicm with looking- f 13 uK-fl at [1 with none, 1 were bserva- bratinjf of the former be a*** he lati- •und by e islands tempo- though ey sailed traced it ley were the best ng every joth, and icne more r to make uly great; which for lie, at the • shattered ■ry further id so long |RTH->»EST anrfer, com- red land in Highlands. Esquimauxg ivesy <Src Capt. Ross, mU is the i of which, ^ground are ;s; Captain 'ith looking- glasses, knives, 5:c ; their astonishment is extreme, at be- holding tlieir faces in the mirrors ; others of the natives are Hogging their dogs to preserve order. The Isabella and Alexander sailed from the Downs about the middle of April 181 S. On the 30th, they reached Lerwick in Shetland : and on June 9th, they were in the vicinity of Disco island. June 10th. At noon (says the Journal of the Voyage) we fell in with several ships employed in the whale fishery, one belong- ing tu Dundee, the rest to Hull ; they had all been successful. The Governor of the whale islands had informed them that the ice had broken up and frozen again no less than three times this season. This fleet of whalers was seen running through the channel from whence we had come, in hopes of finding a passage. June 1 1th. In the afternoon we hoisted our colours and pen- dent, in compliment to the Danish Flag on whale islands. June 14th. At six we fell in with loose ice, and continued sailing through it; firm ice was seen westward. We proceeded next day steering along the edge of the main ice, a firm field stretching from north to south ; we sailed on between large floes, and among loose ice, which, as we advanced, became more tremendous, and move closely packed, till at length we had only a narrow and crooked channel for our passage. At' eight we saw a ridge of icebergs of every variety and shape that can be imagined, and took sketches of them as they appeared. June 17. Waygatt, or Hare Island, was now bearing east of us. We found here forty-five ships employed in the whale fishery, all detained by the ice; and as there appeared little chance of our getting farther for some days, I determined to turn our attention to the best account, and prepared for making observations on shore. June 20. Our Esquimaux returned with seven natives in their canc' i or kajuchs, bringing a small supply of birds. Their village lying on the south of the bays, appears to con- sist of a few imts made of seal skins, sufficient fur the residence uf about fifty persons. Being desirous of procuring a sledge and dogs, I ofl'ered them a rifle musket for one completely fitted, which they promised to fetch ; with much honesty of principle, however, refusing to accept the rifle till they had brought the sledge ; they soon returned, bringing the sledge and dogs in a boat managed by five women, dressed in deer skins ; the boat was called an umiack, and rowed by the women standing. In the early part of the day, July 1 8th, a large bear was seen making towards the ships ; one of the Alexander's men, who Was straying at some distance on tlie ice, first discoveretl the Minimal, und went to nu'(>t it, but so(»n perceiving he wa« no H B'll ill ' i' .li 11 14 match for its ftrocity, he prudently halted, till Messrs Beverlcj-, Skene, and Ross, with some seamen, joined in the attack ; tlic bear made off on their approach, and they had a tedious hunt after it in vain. When the weather cleared, we had the pleasure of seeing land; the ship was immediately under sail, and passing several miles in that direction, we fell in with seven whalers, which had got a-head of us while we were beset : we received a message from one of them, the Everthorpe, requesting surgical assistance for the master, whose thigli harl been severely lacerated by a wounded bear, which had attacked and dragged him out of tlie boat ; the animal was pierced by three lances before it would relinquish its grip, when, disengaging itself from the weapons, it swam to the ice, and made off. The poor man though sadly torn, was happily not considered to be in a dangerous state. July 30th. It being calm, (says Captain Ross,) I sent ft boat after a whale, which appeared to be particularly marked, being black and white ; he was sonn liarpooned by the Isabella') boat; the first harpoon striking him on the back, a little behind the left fin, and at first appearing to be effectual ; the boat was then car- ried to the edge of the ice, and several lines veered away, bjit after holding a long time, it was perceive<l that he had escaped, but he soon after appeared, about a mile and a half in distance, with the harpoon on his back, being then a loose fish. As he re- mained near the surface, and appeared to suffer from the wound^ the young officers of both ships, who each commanded boats, pulled with emulation to the spot where each expected him to rise, waiting for the moment of his appearance with anxiety. For- tune favoured Mr James Ross, the animal rising nearest to his boat, in which the harpooner enfixed his weapon with a deadly aim, following it by a third and fourth, which made the captive certain : he was now much exhausted, and obliged to remain near tlie surface, thereby exposing himself to the lances ; the blood, at intervals flowing from his wounds, and being thrown up in volumes as he rose to breathe ; at length, becoming exhausted, he had only strength to make a last but terrible struggle. August the 6th. — W hile standing off and on, we liad good observations. At half past two, a small opening was seen, wliich, together with the motion of the ice, gave us hopes of forcing a passage : I determined to attempt it, and the weath- er proving fine, the ships were tracked with great difficulty through about a mile of bay ice, to the narrowest of a floe, which obstructed our passage into a pool a-head ; the usual resort was had to sawing, but our labours were soon stispended by the dis- covering of a passage a little to the eastward ; to this therefore we warped the ships through the loose and bay ice, and thus managed to proceed about a mile further. Here we obtained good observations and the bearings of the land. beJ tail 1 a crlcj-, the hunt land; miles ad got e from ice for by a of tlie would eapons, sadly ite t I, ^ boat being ^'5 boat; the left then car- )vay, bjit escaped, distance, As he re- le wound, led boats, im to rise, ity For- rest to his h a deadly he captive emain near the blood, rown up in exhausted, ;gle. ; Ivad good was seen, e us hopes I the weath- at difficulty 1 floe, which il resort was I by the dis- his thercfovc ce, and thus we obtaint'd The ships had made very little progress, when we were eur- prised by the appearance of several men on the ice, who were hallooing, (as we imagined) to the ships ; the first impression was, that they were shipwrecked sailors, probably belonging to some vessel that had followed us, and had been crushed in the last gale ; we therefore tacked, hoisted our colours, and stood in for the shore. On approaching the ice, we discovered them to be natives drawn in rudely fashioned sledges by dogs, which they continued to drive backwards and forwards with wonderful ra- pidity. When we arrived within hail, Saccheuse called out to them, in hie own language ; some words we heard in return, to which a reply was again made by the Esquimaux, but neither party appeared to be in the least degree intelligible to the other. For some time they continued to regard us in silence, but on the ships' tacking, they set up a sinuiltaneous shout, accompanied with many strange gesticulations, and went off in their sledges with amazing velocity towards the land. After they had attained tlie distance of a mile or more, they halted for about two hours; as soon as this was observed, the ship was tacked, and a boat sent to place an observation stool of four feet in height, on the ice, on which various presents, consisting of knives and articles of clothing were letl. Either, however, they did not see it, or it did not attract their attention, and a second boat was therefore sent, with directions to leave one of the Esquimaux dogs with some strings of blue beads round his neck, near the same place. It being necessary to examine if there was a passage in tlu9 place, wc took the opportunity of their absence to stand towards the head of the pool, which was about four miles oiF, trusting, that in the mean time they would return to the same spot, to which it was also our intention to come back, after examining into the chances of a passage northward. No opening was how- ever found, and we therefore returned, after an absence of ten hours. The dog was found sleeping on the spot where we left him, the presents remaining untouched. A single sledge was shortly after observed at a great distance; but it immediately drove off with great rapidity. Being extremely anxious to communicate with the natives, I caused a pole to be prepared, on which a flag was flxed, with a, representation of the sun and moon, pointing over a hand holding a sprig of heath, (the only shrub seen on the shore) This pole being carried to an iceberg, midway between the ships and the shore, was there erected, and a bag containing presents, with the device of a hand pointing to a ship, painted on it, was fastened to the pole within reach, and left there ; the ships in the mean time, being moored in a convenient situation for observing what might take place. The gale had now entirely subsided, the weather became beautiful, and the water calm ; circumstances that necessarily de- tained up in our present situation ; which notwithstanding the 16 iijii I . It .1 II imperious nature of our orders to proceed with all possible di«i» patci], -ve should have been unwilling to leave, while any chance of a cummunicHtion with a people hitherto unkno>^ n, remained. August 10. Myriads of the little awks surrounded us, and af- forded some sport, while they proved no less a treat *^o the pe«)ple. y\bout 10 o'clock this day, we were rejoiced to see eighi sledges, driven by the natives, advancing by a circuitous route towards the place where we lay ; they halteil about a mile from us, and the people alighting, ascended a small iceberg, as if to reconnoitre. After remaining apparently in consultation for nearly half an hour, four of them descended and came towards the flag-staff, which, however, they did not venture to approach ; in the mean time, a white flag was hoisted at the main in each ship, and John vSaccheuse dispatched, bearing a small white flag, with some presents, that he might endeavour, if possible, to bring them to a parley. This was a service which he had most cheerfully volunteered, requesting leave to go unattended and unarmed, a request to which no objection could be made, as the place chosen for the meeting was within half a mile of the Isabella: it was equally advantageous to the natives, a canal, or small chasm in the ice, not passable without a plank, se- parating the parties from each other, and preventing any possi- bility of an attack from these people, unless by darts. In executing this service, Saccheuse displayed no less address than courage. Having placed his flag at some distance from the canal, he advanced to the edge, and taking off his hat, made friendly signs for those opposite to approach as he did ; this they partly complied with, halting at a distance of 300 yards, where they got out of their sledges, and set up a loud simultaneous halloo, which Saccheuse answered by imitating it. They ven- tured to approach a little nearer, having nothing in their hands but the whips with which they guide their dogs ; and, after sa- tisfying themselves that the canal was impassable, one of them in particular, seemed to acquire confidence. Shouts, words, and gestures, were exchanged for some time to no purpose, though each party seemed, in some degree to recognize each other's language, Saccheuse, after a time, thought he could discover that they spoke the Humookc dialect, drawing out their words, however, to an unusual length. He immediately adopted that dialect, and holding up presents, called out to them, Kahkcitc, " Come on ;" to which they answered, Naakrie, naakrieai-plaite, " No, no — g^Q away ;" and other words which he made out to mean, that they hoped we were not come to destroy them. The boldest then approached to the edge of the canal, and drawing from his boot a knife, re|)eated " Go away ! I can kill you." Saccheuse not intimidated, told them he was also a man, nnil a friend; and at the same, threw across the canal some strings of beads, and a checked shirt ; but these they beheld 17 e cli«i» hance ained. ind at- ♦o the ? eighi^ 8 route le from as if to ion for towards iproach ; iti each liite flag, 5sible, to \mu\ most ided and le, as the le of the , a canal, f)lank, se- any possi- ess addvcs3 tance from 3 hat, made i ; this they irds, where imvdtaneous They ven- their hands nd, after sa- ,e of them m words, and pose, though each other's mV\ discover their words, adopted that lem, Kahkette, s »Tiade out to oy them, the canal, and ^y ! 1 can UiU vas also a man, the canal some se they beheld m with great distrust and apprehension, still cAWing, " Go away, don't kiM Us." Saccheuse now thr?w them an English knife, saying, " Take that." On this they approached with caution^ picked up the knife, dien shouted and pulled their noses ; these actions were imitated by Saccheuse, who, in return called out, " Heigh, ynn !" pulling his nose with the same gesture. They now pointed to the shirt, demanding what it was ; and when told it was an article of clothing, asked of what skin it was made. Saccheuse replied, it was made of the hair of an animaV^ which they had never seen : on which they picked it up with expressions of surprise. They now began to ask many ques- tions; for, by this time they found the language spoken by themselves and Saccheuse had sufficient resemblance to enable them to hold some communication. They first pointed to the ships, eagerly asking " What great creatures those were ? Do they come from the sun or the moon > Do they give us light by night or by day ?" Saccheuse told them he was a man, that had a father and mother like tliemselves; < and, pointing to the south, said that he came from a distant country, in that direction. To this they answered, ** That cannot be; there is nothing but ice there " They again asked, " What creatures these were }" pointing to the ships : to which Saccheuse replied, that " They were houses made of wood." This they seemed still to discredit, answering, " No, they are alive, we have seen them move their wings." Saccheuse now inquired of them, what they themselves were ; to which they replied, they were men, and lived in that direction, pointing to the north; that there was much water there ; and that they had come here to fish for sea unicorns. It wac then agreed that Saccheuse should pass the chasm to them ; and he accordingly returned to the ship to make his report, and to ask for a plank. During the whole of this conversation, I had been employed with a good telescope in observing their motions, and beheld the first man approach with every mark of fear and distrust, looking frequently behind to the other two, and beckoning them to come on, as if for sup- port; they occasionally retreated, then advanced again, with cautious steps, in the attitude of listening, generally keeping one hand down by their knees, in readiness to pull out a knife which they had in their boots ; in the other hand they held their dog wb'ps with the lash coiled up ; their sledges remaining at a little distance, the fourth man being apparently stationed to keep them in readiness for escape. Sometimes they drew back the covering they had on their heads, as if wishing to catch the most distant sounds; at which time J could discern their features, displaying extreme terror and amazement, while every limb appeared to tremble as they moved. Saccheuse was direc- ted to entice them to the ship, and two men were now sent with a plank, which was accordingly placed across the chasm. They appeared still much alarmed, and. requested that Saccheuse 18 m :;';i|i If ' ' only should come over : he accordingly passed to the opposite side, on which they earnestly besought him not to touch them ; as, if he did, they should certainly die. After he had used many arguments to persuade them that he was flesh and blood, the native who had shewn most courage, ventured to touch his hand ; then pulling himself by the no&e, set up a shout in which he was joine<l by Saccheuse and the oUier three. The presents were then distiibuted, consisting of tw6 or three articles of clothing, and a few strings of beads, after which Saccheuse exchanged a knife for one of theirs. The hope of getting some important information, as well as the interest naturally felt for these poor creatures, made me impatient to communicate with them myself; and I therefore desired Lieutenant Parry to accompany me to the place where the party were assembled, it appearing to me that Saccheuse had failed in persuading them to come nearer the ships. We accordingly provided ourselves with additional pre- sents, consisting of looking glasses and knives, togetlier with some caps and shirts, and proceeded towards the spot, where the conference was held with increased ^energy. By the time we reached it, the whole Avere assembled ; those who had originally been left at a distance with other sledges, having driven up to join their comrades. The party now, therefore, consisted of eight natives, with all their sledges, and about fifty dogs, two sailors, Saccheuse, Lieutenant Parry and myself — forming a group of no small singularity ; not a little also increased by the peculiarity of the situation — on a field of ice far from the land. The noise and clamour may be easily conceived, the whole talk- ing and shouting together, and the dogs howling while the na- tives were flogging Uiem with their long whips to preserve order. Our arrival produced a visible alarm, causing them to retreat a few steps towards their sledges ; on this Saccheuse called to us to pull our noses, as he had discovered this to be the mode of fKendly salutation with them. This ceremony was accordingly performed by each of us— the natives, during their retreat, mak- ing use of the same gestures, the nature of which we had not before understood. In the same way we imitated their shouts as well as we could, using the same interjections. Heigh, yaw ! which we afterwards found to be an expression of surprise and pleasure. We then advanced towards them while they halted, and presented the foremost with a looking glass and a knife, re- peating the siime presents to the whole as they came up in suc- cession. On seeing their faces in the glasses, their astonishment appeared extreme, and they looked round in silence for a moment at each other and at us ; immediately afterwards they set up a gei.wTal shout, succeeded by a loud laugli, expressive of extreme delight as well as surprise, in which we joined, partly from in- ability to avoid it, and willing also to shew that we were pleased with our new acquaintances. The impression made by this ludicrous scene, on Saccheuse, was so strong, that some time ofter he made a drawing of it. 19 osite kem; nany , the land ; e was were thing, ged a tortant le poor (nyself; me to t to me arer the nal pre- jer with here the time vre irigina^ly en up to isisted of logs, two orming a sed by the I the land, vhole talk- ile the na- lerve order, to retreat a ailed to us he mode of accortUngly etreat, mak- we had not their shouts Heigh, yaw! surprise and they halted, d a knife, re- le up in fiuc- astonishment for a moment hey set up a ive of extreme jartly from in- e were pleased on Saccheuse, drawing of it. being the first specimen we had witnessed of his talents for histo- rical composition. His practice in the art of design, which he had cultivated, in addition to all the other branches of knowledge en- grafted on his Esquimaux education, having hitherto been limited to copying such prints of single figures or ships, as he could procure, as he never received any hint or assistance in this per- formance. Having now at- length acquired confidence, they advanced, offering, in return for our knives, glasses, and beads— their knives, sea unicorns' horns, and sea-horse teeth, which were accepted. They were then instructed by Saccheuse to uncover their beads, as a mark of good will and respect to us ; and with this ceremonial, which they performed immediately, and of which they appeared to comprehend the meaning, our friendship became established. One of them having inquired what was the use of a red cap which I had given him, Saccheuse placed it on his head, to the gi'eat amusement of tlie rest, each of whom put it on in his turn. The colour of our skins became next a subject of much mirth, as also the ornaments on the frames of the looking glasses. The eldest of them, who was also the one who acted as leader, addressing himself to me, now made a long speech, which being ended, he appeared to wait for a reply, I made signs that I did not understand him, and called for Sac- cheuse to interpret ; he thus perceived that we used different languages, at which his astonishment appeared extreme, and he expressed it by a loud Heigh, yaw ! As Saccheuse's attempt to procure the meaning of this oration seemed likely to fail, and as we were anxious to get them to the ship as soon as possible, I desired him to persuade them to accompany us. They accor- dingly consented — on which their dogs were unharnessed and fastened to the ice, and two of the sledges were drawn along the plank to tlie other side of the chasm ; three of the natives being left in charge of the dogs and the remaining sledges ; the other five followed us, laughing heartily at seeing Lieutenant Parry and myself drawn towards the ship <hi the sledges, by our sea- men. One of them by keeping close to me, got before his com- panions, and thus we proceeded together, till we arrived within a hundred yards of the ship, where he stopped. I attempted to urge him on, but in vain — his evident terror preventing him from advancing another step, till his companions came up. It was apparent that he still believed the vessel to be a living crea- ture, as he stopped to contemplate her, looking up at the masts, and examining every part with marks of the greatest fear and ■ astonishment; he then addressed her, crying out in words per- fectly intelligible to Saccheuse, and in a loud tone, " Who are you ? what are you .'' where do you come from ? is it from the sun or the moon ?" pausing betweei> every question, and pulling his nose with the utmost solemnity. The rest now came up in succession, each shewing similar surprise, and making use of the same expressions, accompanied by the same extraordinary cere- nxony. Saccheuse now labouiecl to assure them, that the ship > mmm 20 ^:!il: was only a wooden house, and pointed out the boat, which had bern hauled on the ice to repair; explaining; to them that it waK a smaller one of the same kind. This immediately arrested their attention. They advanced to the boat, examined her, as well as the carpenters' tools, and the oars, very minutely; each object in its turn, exciting the most ludicrous ejaculations of surprise. We then ordered the boat to be launched into the sea, with a man in it, and hauled up again, at the sight of which they set no bounds to their clangour. The ice anchor, a heavy piece of iron shaped like the letter S, and the cable, excited much interest; the former they tried in vain to remove, and they eagerly inquired of what skins the latter was made. By this time the officers of both ships had surrounded them, while the bow of the Isabella, which was close to the ice, was crowded with the crew ; and, certainly, a more ludicrous, yet interesting scene, was never be- held than that which took place whilst they wei'e viewing the ship ; nor is it possible to convey to the imagination, any thing like a just representation of the wild amazement, joy, and fear, which successively pervaded the conntena:ices, and governed the gestures of these creatures, who gave full vent to their feelings ; and I am sure it was a gratifying scene, which never can be tor- gotten by those who witnessed and enjoyed it. Their shouts, halloos, and laughter, were heartily joined in, and imitated by all hands, as well as the ceremony of nose pulling, which could not fail to increase our mirth on the occasion. Tiiat which most of all excited their admiration, wa$ the circumstance of a sailor going aloft ; and they kept their eyes on him till he reached the summit of the mast. The sails whicli hung loose, they natu- rally supposed were skins. Their attention being again called to the boat, where the carpenter's hammer and nails still remained, they were shown the use of these articles; aid no sooner were they aware of their purposes, than they shewed a desire to pos- sess them, and were accox'dingly presented with some nails. They now accompanied us to that part of the bow from which a rope-ladder Mas suspended, and the mode of mounting it was shown tl em , but it was a considerable time ere we could prevail on them to ascend it; at length the senior, who always led the way, went up, and was followed by the rest. The new wonders that i)ow surrounded tliem on every side caused fresh astonish- ment, which, after a inoment's suspense, always terminated in loud and hearty laughter. The most frequent ejaculation of surprise was Heigh, t/aw ! and when particularly excited by any more remarkable object than the rest, they pronounced the first syllable of the interjection many times, ;with peculiar rapidity and emphasis, extending wide their arms, and looking at each other at the end of the exclamation, with open mouths, as if in breathless consternation. Their knowledge of wood seemed to be limited to some heath of a dwarfish growth, witli stems no thicker than the finger; and accordingly they knew not whu^ tu iil had wa« heir "Was bject prise, ith a jet no f iron erest ; [juired cers of abella, ; and, ver be- ing the y thing nd tear, rned the eeUngs ; n be for- r shouts, tated by ch could liich most f a sailor ached the :hey natu- n called to remained, joner were sire to poa- jome nails, om which a ling it was ould prevail ays led the lew wonders Bsh astonish- jrminated in jaculation of ncitedbyany need the first uliar rapidity iking at each BUths, as if i»^ ,od seemed to ivith stems no ;w not what to ihink of the timber they saw on hoard. Not being aware of its weight, two or three of thcin successively seized on the spurn top-mast, evidently with a view of carrying it oft"; and as soon as they became familiar with the people around them, they shew- ed that desire of possessing what they admired, which is so uni- versal among savages. 'I'he only thing they looked on with contempt, was a little terrier dog, judging no doubt that it was too small for drawing a sledge ; but they shrunk back as if i:i terror, from a jiig, whose pricked ears antl ferocious aspect, being of tlie Shetland breed, presented a somewhat formidable appear- ance ; this animal happening to grunt, one of them was so terri- fied, that he becsinie from that moment imeasy, and appeared impatient to get out of the ship. In carrying his purpose into effect, however, he did not lose his propensity to thieving, as he seized and endeavoured to carry off tlie smith's anvil : finding: that he could not remove it, he laid hold of the large hammer, threw it on the ice, and following it himself, deliberately set it on his sledge and made off. As this was an article I could not spare, I sent a person to recover it, wlio followed him hallooing, and soon got pretty near him : seeing tiiat he must be overtaken, he artfully sunk it in the snow, and went on with the sledge, by which we were convinced, that he knew he Avas doing wrong. The seaman on finding the hammer, left off the pursuit, and returned, while he went off and was seen no more that da)'. Short- ly after, another of them who hail received a present, consisting of a small hammer and some nails, left the ship also, putting his acquisitions upon the remaining sledge, dragged it away with liim, and disappeared. Among other amusements afforded to the officers and men on board, by their trials on the inexperience of the natives, was the effect produced on them, by seeing their faces in a raagnitVing mirror. Their grimaces were highly entertaining, while, like monkeys, they looked first into it, and then behind, in hopes of finding tlie monster which was exaggerating their hideous ges- tures. A wfltch was also held at the ear of one, who, snpposing it alive, asked if it was good to eat. On being shewn the glass of the sky-light and binnacle, they touched it, and desired to know what kind of ice it was. During this scene, one of them wandered to the main hatchway, and stooping down, saw the Serjeant of marines, whose red coat produced a loud exclamation of wonder, while his own attitude and figure did not less excite the surprise of our tars, who, for the first time, discovered some unexpected peculiarities in the dress of the natives. The three men remaining, were now !;^nded down to my cabin, and shewn the use of the chairs, which they did not com- prehend, appearing to have no notion of any other seat than the ground. Being seated, we attempted to take their portraits, in which Lieutenant Hopner, Mr Skene, Mr Bushnan, and myself, were at the same time employed. During this attempt, fearful it n might alarm them, vre amused them with questions, collecting, from tlieni, at the same time, the information we thought it de- sirable to obtain ; and directing Saccheuse to ask those questions which the hurried nature of this visit permitted us to recollect as most essential, and of which the result will appear hereafter. Our drawings being completed, and interrogatories ended, they began to be very inquisitive, asking the use of every thing in the cabin. We shewed them papers, books, drawings, and various mathematical instruments, which produced only the usual effect of astonishing them ; but on being shewn the prints in Cook's Voyage of the natives of Otaheite, they atten^pted to grasp them, evidently comprehending that they were the representations of human beings. The sight of a writing desk, a bureau, and of other wooden furniture, also excited their astonishment, but ap- parently from the nature of the materials only, as they seemed to form no idea of their uses. They were now conducted to the gun.room, and afterwards round the ship, but without appearing to distinguish any thing particularly, except the wood in her construction, stamping on the deck, ;, if in evident surprise at the quantity of the valuable material. In hopes of amusing them, the violin was then sent for, and some tunes were played ; they, however, paid no attention to this, seeming quite unconcerned either about the sounds or tlie performer ; a sufficient proof that the love of music is an acquired taste, and that it requires experi- ence to distinguish between that and similar noises. A flute was afterwards sounded for them, which seemed to exact somewhat more attention ; probably from its resembling, more nearly in shape, the objects to which they were accustomed ; one of them put it to his mouth, and blew on it, but immediately threw it away. On returning to the cabin, some biscuit was produced, and a piece eaten by Saccheuse, before presenting it to them. One of them then took a piece also into his mouth, but almost imme- diately spat it out with apparent disgust Some salt meat, that was afterwards offered, produced the same effect. We now also ascertained their names, that of the eldest Ervick, and that of the two others, who were his brother's sons, Marshuick and Otooniah. Some jugglers' tricks were afterwards exhibited by Mv lUni-rley, which seemed to disconcert them, as they became uneasy, and expressed a wish to go on deck; we accordingly aeeompaiiied them, and by pointing to the pieces of ice that were alongside, attempted to discover to vhat extent they could count, for the purpose of ascertaining the numbers of their tribe: we found, however, they could only reckon to ten ; and on inquiring, therefore, if their country possessed as mair inhabitants, as there were pieces of ice, tliey replied, " Many more," a thousand fragments were perhaps then floating round the ship. The knives had, by this time, been examined by the armourer, who thought they were made from pieces of iron hoop, or from flat- toned nails ; we therefore asked if any plank or wreck had S8 iormerly been driven on their shore ; to which they replied, that u piet'f of wood with some nails had come on shoic, nud ''een picked up ; we therefore concluded, that the knives which they had left with us, had been tormeJ from this iron, and conse- quently made no further inquiries They were now loaded with various presents, consisting of some articles of clothing, biscuit, and pieces of wood, in addition to which, the plank that had been used in crossing the chasm was given to them. They then departed, promising to return as £oon as they had eaten and slept, as we had no means of explaining to them what Uvmorrow meant. The parting was attended with the ceremony of pulling noses on both sides. After they had reached and crossed the chasm, they were observed by some men who had been sent to accompany them, throwing away the biscuit, and splitting the plank, which was of teak, into small pieces, for the purpose of divi<ling it among the party. Soon after this they mounted their sledges^ and drove off in a body, hallooing apparently in great glee. were :ount, we VIEW VIII. Subject — Criinaon Cliffs — Captain Ross, Lieutenant Parry, SaccheusCj and part of the crews, playing at foot-ball with the natives. On the ice, in the foreground of the view, are Capt. Ross, Lieut. Parry, Saccheuse the Esquimaux, and part of the crews, with groupes of the natives, kicking at each other an inflated seal skin bag, behind which are more of the natives taking care of the sledges. In the middle distance, are the Crimson Clifis, so named from the snow on them being of a deep crimson colour ; behind the cliffs, at a considerable distance, are high mountains covered with snow of the na- tural colour. August 11. The drifting of the ice this morning, (continues the Journal) apprised us of an approaching southerly breeze, and made pur situation no longer tenable ; we were therefore obliged to cast loose, and, ailter pass'ng through several narrow channels, and much loose ice, we au anced seven miles further to the westward, and fortunately found a place of safety^ under the lee of a very large iceberg, which lay aground in 150 fathoms. No sooner were both ships fast, than an immense floe of ice, with two small bergs in it, came into contact with the large berg, the corner of which was raised several feet ; a huge piece of the j[)recipice was struck off by the concussion, and fell widt a dreadful crash, breaking the ice below it, and raising a wave that rent the floe in pieces for several hundred yards, and made the ships roll considerably. u A bottle, containing an accuunt of our proceedings, was here left on tlie floating ice. We also found, what Saccheuse had forgotten to tell us before, that the iron was procured from a mountain near the shore. They had informed him, that there was a rock of it, or more, (for it could not at this time be ascertained which) and that the pieces from which the blades of their knives were made, were cut off by means of a sharp stone. We now, therefore, had much reason to regret, that the party which landed on the spot which Mr Bushnun had determined to be an island, on the morning of the 8th, had not proceeded further, and that they di(i not exaniine the mountains where it now appeared that this iron was ibuiid. August 13. The ice was now closing in upon us, the weather had every appearance of a gale, and we lost no time in seeking a place of shelter, which we were fortunate enough to find close to an iceberg, that was firmly secured to the land ice : in this there was a small bay, in which we were made fast, and were very soon beset as we expected. During the three last days, we had seen a vast number of whales, which sometimes came up alongside of the ship to res* pire, and did not seem at all alarmed : we saw also some sea unicorns, and in the mornings and evenings, the pools of water were literally swarming with awks, hundreds of which were daily shot. We had not remained long at our new moorings, before we were gratified by the appearance of three of the natives at a diatance. Preparations were acccordingly made for continuing our intercourse, if they should prove to be the same that had been with us, or for obtaining a parley if they should turn out to be strangers. The flag-staff, as on a former occasion, was, therefore pitched at some distance from the ships, and the natives were shortly seen to approach it, without much hesitation or alan^i. I'hey were observed to take down the bag which was attached to it ; but after examining the contents, they restored them to their place, and returned to their sledges. Saccheuse was then fur- nished with presents, and sent to speak with them. He found immediately that they were not our old friends, but other natives, who had received from them a good report of us, together with the history of our being people that lived beyond the ice, and that this had prevented any alarm at our appearance. On receiving this account, I went with Lieutenant Parry to the place of communication, and perfor-med the ceremonies aU ready described, asf^uring them of our friendship, and inviting them on board— it being propose J that they should drive close to the ships on their sledges : the eldest got into his sledge for this purpose, and we hud thus an opportunity of witnessing the mode in which he managed his dogs. These were six in number, each having a collar of soul skin, two inches wide, to <* 25 were ^vhich tlie one end of the thonjr« made of strong hide, about three yards long, was tied, tlie other end being fastened to the fore i)art of the sledge ; thus they all stood nearly a-breast, each drawing by a i^ingle trace, without reins. No sooner did they hear the crack of the wliip. than they ^et off at full spi;ed, while he seemed to manage them with the greatest ease, guiding them partly by his voice, and partly by the sound of the whip ; on approaching our sailors, however, they became so terrified, that it was with some difficulty they could be stopped. They werfc at length fastened to the ice, and one of the younger men, who had come up behind, was left in charge of the whole. They were much delighted with the presents that were now given them ; but as it appeared that they had seen those which we had given to the first party, their surprise was not to be compared to that which we had already witnessed. In return, I received a spear made of the sea unicorn's horn, with a sledge, made chiefly of the bones of the seal, tied together with thongs of seal skin, the runners, or lower pieces, being formed of sea unicorn's horns. I also purchased from them a dog, but with some difficulty, as they seemed very averse to part with it. I chose the one which appeared to Mr Parry and me the handsomest. On examining them, we found that three of them had lost each an eye ; these, as the natives inforund us, having been accidents from the lash of the whip. The dog was bound, and led on by one of the sailors to the ship. The animal was some time afterwards unfor- tunately washed overboard in a gale. The other two natives now accompanied us to the ship, and were much astonished at every thing they saw ; but it was evi- dent that they had been prepared to see wonders by our former visitors, as they were by no means so clamorous. They came in the smnmer season to catch seals and sea uni- corns, and to procure iron, and returned when the sun left them. We inqui'-ed respecting the iron with which their knives were edged ; they informed us, that it was found in the mountain before mentioned ; that it was in several large masses, of which one in particular, which was harder than the resrt, was a part of the mountain, that the others were in large pieces above ground, and not of so hard a nature ; that they cut it off with a hard stone, and then beat it flat into pieces of the size of a sixpence, but of an oval shape. As tlie place where this metal was found, which is culled Sowallick, was at least twenty-five miles distant, and the weather was very unsettled, I could not venture to send another party to examine it, being uncertain how scmn we might be for- ced from our present situ uon. I therefore offered high rewards, and pressed them to bring us some spei-imcns of it, which they nuulily premised, but never performed. They all shewed the fame dislike to bread and spirits us the others. When on deck, and almut to leave us, they pointed to their houses, which were oppo<sitc to the ship, about three miles distant, <: 26 awd could be discerned with tlie telescope. They informed us that the headland we saw farthest to the north, wJiich \v;is six miles off, was called Inraaiiick, and that on the other side of it there was clear sea. Having made them presents consisfting of a small harpoon, with some pieces of iron and of wood, 1 repeated my entreaties that they would bring- specimens of their non. They promised to return with it when they had eaten and slept, together with more of their countrymen, when they departed highly pleased. 14th. The weather continuing clear, we had good azimuths, and several c ervations on the deviation of the magnetic needle, were also made. In the mean time, the boats were sent to pro- cure \vater-fowl: they returned with three hundred of the little awks, which were as usual served to the ship's company. At two in the afternoon, a party of ten natives were seen ap- proaching the ship on their sledges. Mr Parry, Sacchcuse, .and myself went out to meet them ; and among them were glad to recognize three of those with whom we had first communicated, and the one «vho had purloined the hannner. They now came forward, not only without alarm, but without ceremony — both the pulling of noses, and the shakinji' of hands being dispensed with ; and having with them a seal skin made into a bag, and filler! with ;iir, they began to kick it at each other and at us. hi this play we heartily joined, to the great amusement of both parties. i'his toot-ball was the buoy of their harpoon, and we fountl they had killed a sea unicorn during the night, about three miles to the south-eastward of the ship^ ; we immediately asked for its horn, to which they replied it was a female and had none. We now invited them to the ship, and they accompanied us witliout hesitation. They were, however, no sooner on board, than they proceeded both to beg and to steal, laying hands on every small piece of w«km1 they met with, and pocketing every rail they could find aliout the ship. I ])rocured from them a sledge of the same description as the former, and a couple of knives ; they also gave me a piece of drieil sea unicorn's flesh, which appeared to have been parched or half roasted, as it bore the marks of fire. I attempted in vain to procure another dog from them, but they could not be persuaded to part with him. One of them who had a bag full of awks, took out one in our jiresence, and devoured it raw ; but on being asked if this was a common practice, they informed us, that they only cat them in this stale when they had no convenience for cookery. We also learnt that the water was clear of ice on the northern side of the Cape; intelligence which could not fail to raise our spirits with the hopes of making some progress as soon as we vere able to move from our present position. August the 17th. This morning being clear, I sent to an ice- berg to obtain aznnuths, but owing to the attraction of the boat, ^vhich had ice-anchors on board, no satisfactory result was 27 N, obtiilned. We now discovered that tlie snow on the face of tlie cliffs, presented an Jip])e;ii;ince both iiovel and interesiinjr, being apparently stained, or covered, by .s»nne substance v^hich gave it a deep crimson colour. Many conjectures were fornied concern- ing the cause o*' tliis appearance. It was at once determined that it coulil not arise from the dung of birds, as thousands of these, of various descriptions, were seen repeatedly sitting on the ice, and on the snow, but without producing any such ellect. At two P. M. it fell nearly calm, and I sent a boat with Mr Ross, Mr Beverley, and a party, to bring off some of the snow, ami to make their remarks on the circumstances attending it: also to procure specimens of the animal, vegetalilc, and mineral kingdoms, and to ascertain if tliis part of the country was iiilia- bited : tiie boat arrived at the shore, nearly at low water, and found the tiile had fillen nine feet. The party remained two hours on shore, and found the cliffs accessible at the spot where thev landed, but they did n.')t get to the top, being recalled iu consequence of a breeze wliich spr.ung up. ihey >vere equally unsuccessful in meeting with natives, or their habitations, as in procuring specimens of the black fox, many of which they saw juul fired at, but without effect. They found the snow was pene- trated even down to the rock by the colouring matter — a ileptli often or twelve feet, and that it had the appearance of being a long time in that state. We examined the snow by a microscope, magnifying a hundred and ten times ; and the substance appeared to consist of particles resembling a very minute round s.-'cd, which was of the same size, and deep red colour : on some of the particles a small dark speck was also seen. It was the general opinion of the oflicers, that it must be vegetable, and tliis opinion .seemed to gain strengtli, by the nature of the places where it was found. These were the sides of the hills, about six hundred feet high, the tops of which were covered with vegetation of a yel- lowish-green and reddish-brown colours. The extent of these cliffs were al)f)ut eight miles ; behind tliem at a considerable dis- tance, high mountains «ere seen, but the snow which covered these was not coloured In the evening, I cuised some of the snow to be dissolved and bottled, when the water had the appearance of muddy port vine. In a few hours it deposited a sediment, which was examined by the microscope: some of it was bruised, and found to be com- posed wholly of red matter: when ap|)lied to paper, it j)rodiiced a colour resembling that of Indian red. I)r W'ollaston seems to concur in that which we orisinally held, of its being a vegetable substance, produced on the mountain immediately above it. It cannot be a marine prodiu'tion, as in several places we saw it at least" six miles from the sea, but always on the face or near the foot of a mountain. 'A'hatover n.y own notions respecting tlie real nature of the epace passed over in th'j foregoing run, from Cape Saumarez to as Cape Clarence, might have been, and whatever my own e.\])ec- tations were, aa to tlie probabih'ty of an opening in this direction, the ardour existing at home for the discovery of a north-west passage, and the cotifidence with Avhich the supposed situation of such an opening has been transferred to one spot, as fast as it has been found not to exist in another, render it necessary to re- capitulate the circumstances which disprove its existence in this place, which forms the northermost extremity of Baffin's Bay. On the 19th of August, at fifty minutes past midnight, the ship being nearly on the seventy- seventh degree of north lati- tude, ten leagues to the westward of Cape vSaumarez, which forms the east side, and the bottom of this bay, the land was distinctly seen. On the 20th and 21st, when off Cape Clarence, at the distance of six leagues, the land which forms the west side, and the bottom ot this bay, was also distinctly seen by the officers and myself, and by these two observations the coast is determined to be connected all round. At each of these periods, this im- mense bay was observed to be covered with field ice ; besides which, a vast chain of large icebergs was seen to extend across it. These were apparently aground, and had probably been driven on shore there by southerly gales. It was also observed, that the tide rose and fell only four feet, and that the stream was scarcely perceptible. From these several considerations, it appears perfectly certain, that the land is here continuous, and that there is no opening at the northernmost part of Baffin's Bay, from Hackluit's Island to Cape Clarence. Even if it be imagined that some narrow Strait may exist through these mountains, it is evident, that it must for ever be unnavigable, and that there is not even a chance of ascertaining its existence, since all approach to the bottoms of these bays is prevented by the ice which fills them to so great a depth, and appears never to have moved from its station. Being thus satisfied th.it there could be no further inducement to continue longer in this place, and it being necessary to husband the little time yet remaining, for the work which was still to be done, I shaped my course, on the morning of the 21st, towards the next opening which appeared in view to the westward. Several copper cylinders, containing- an account of our pro- ceedings, were left on the floating ice, when we left the bay. IINIS.