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 «. 
 
J 
 
 SKETCHES 
 
 ON 
 
 THE NIPISAGUIT, 
 
 A RIVER OF NEW BRUNSWICK, 
 
 B. N. AMERICA. 
 
 BY 
 
 WILLIAM HICKMAN, B.A. 
 
 HALIFAX, N.S. 
 PUBLISHED BY JOHN B. STRONG. BOOKSBLLER AND LIBRARIAN. 
 
 LONDON: DAY & SON, LITHOGRAPHERS TO THE QUEEN, 
 
 GATE STREET, MNCOLN'S-INX FIELDS. 
 
 1860. 
 
X 
 
TO HTS EXCELLENCY 
 
 THE RIGHT HONORABLE THE EARL OF MULGRAVE, 
 
 LIEUTENANT-GOVERNOR OF NOVA SCOTIA, ETC. ETC. 
 
 THIS WORK 
 
 IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, BY HIS OBEDIENT HUMBLE SERVANT, 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
t » 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 TiiF, Sketches comprim>(l in the following work were not originally intended for publication, 
 but merely an mementos of n pleasant visit paid by the Author, with fishing-rod and sketch-book, 
 to the banks of the Nipisnijuit. At the request, however, of those whose party he joined there, 
 and other friends, they have been put into the hands of the lithographer, and now make their 
 appearance, attended with a Hhort account, for the purpose of explanation. This apology, if, indeed, 
 it can bo so called, may bo Imrdly considered a sufiiclcnt one for introducing before the public 
 a work of such apparently little general interest. The drawings and description of an almost 
 unknown river, flowing through a remote part of one of the North American colonics, cannot be 
 expected to attract a largo share of attention, more especially when those drawings, the efforts 
 o*' a sclf-taught amateur, but little enhance its merit, while the details contain none of that 
 scientific research which might attract the notice of the geologist or naturalist. Failing, however, 
 in this, there are still two classes of persons by whom it is hoped it may be kindly welcomed. 
 The first, a small one, consists of those who have themselves visited "the rocky river;" who 
 cannot but look back with pleasure to the time they spent there, and who will feel kindly 
 disposed to anything that recalls to tlieir memory, amidst the bustle of every-day existence, a 
 vision of the green trees, cool clear waters, salmon, rapids, canoes, and the other concomitants to 
 that life of health and freedom. The next is the larger body of fishermen in general, and lovers 
 of the noble sport of salmon-iishing, whoso interest in the subject is most specially solicited. 
 
 The Mipisaguit is one of the very few rivers in North America whicL 'tr- salmon still visit 
 for breeding purposes in undiminished numbers ; saw-mills, spearing, netting, aui. what in England 
 would be called poaching, have ruined the rest. Here, however, the fisherman can still, with 
 good tackle, fair luck, and, last but not least, a muscular arm, kill his eight, ten, or even twelve 
 fresh-run salmon a day. This, however, will not be the case much longer : the peculiar nature 
 of the river, the height of its falls, the clearness of its waters, its extreme narrowness in many 
 parts, expose it to every kind of foul fishing. Even now, Indians are leaving their own exhausi<3d 
 streams, and congregating on it in numbers, spearing immense quantities of fish on their 
 spawning-grounds, from mere wanton love of destruction. 
 
 Parties of settl(;rs, too, discovering the lucrative nature of the speculation, camp on the 
 river at certain times, and stretching a deep net across some narrow part of it, for some days 
 capture nearly every fish that attempts to ascend the stream : the salmon are salted and conveyed 
 to the coast, where they are readily bought up by American traders. It is not to be supposed 
 from tills account that good laws have not been made by the Government of the province, for 
 
11 
 
 PRBFACB. 
 
 I ! 
 
 I I 
 
 tho protection of so valuable a stream; hut, tnm\ the thiiily-populntcd state of the country 
 about it, the difllculty of onforciuff them is groat, particularly when the individual interests (if 
 the magistrates are but little enlisted in tho cause. And thus, in a few years it is much to he 
 feorod that the Nipisaguit. like the rest of its fellow strcoms, wiU have little but its old reputation 
 left to glory in: still, there are many plans by means of which it could be saved from such a 
 fate, though it might appear, iierhaps, presumptuous to suggest th.>m bore ; hut if tho contents 
 of tho following pages should in any way attract attention to tho subject l)eforo it be too late, 
 and tho Author thus contribute to the preservation of tho river he loves so woU, his object in 
 publishing them will 1m> fully gained. 
 
 UOVEIINMKNT Hoi 8E, HaUFAX, U.S., 
 
 Jtnrcfi, 1860. 
 
 HiMMiMiMiHHil 
 
liNTHODUCTOUY ClIArrEU. 
 
 TiiK littlo town of ItathurHt, N.U., is built on two small itoninNulafl, formnd by four rivors, 
 wiiicb (li^boueli into tho Hiunu buy, and at almost tlio sarao point. Of these, two, tho Littlo and 
 Middio Ilivors, nro wortliy of but small notice, except, perhaps, for tho numbers of brown trout 
 tliat fn.iiuent them. The tiiird, culled tho Tootoo<,'oo8e, or " River of tho Farios," is an exceedingly 
 beautiful stream ; its clear waters How for a distance of twenty-five miles over a bod of rock ; 
 it abounds with brown and white trout, and contains some very good salmon-pools. The fourth, 
 however, surpasses the others in every particular: its scenery is of tho most wild and varied 
 character, while as a salmon-river it is without a rival in tho known parts of the North-American 
 continent, and, most prob.ibly, in the world. Its Indian name was originally Winkkapiguwick, or 
 " Place of Tnmbled AVaters," which has become, in course of time, Nipisaquit, or Nipisaguit. 
 The lakes from wliicli it takes its rise are at a distance of about ninety miles from the coast, and 
 situate in a perfectly tminhabited part of tho nortli of New Urunswick. The first half of this 
 journey tho river performs over granite, the lait<!r over a i)ed of calcareous formation, thickly 
 strewtxl, however, with granite bouhUu's. 
 
 I'ho (}rand l-'alls are distant about twenty miles from the tide-way, and their height is 
 one htuulred and ten feet ; by them tlie salmon are elfectually prevented from ascending tho river 
 any higher, and concenlraled in a comparatively small part of it ; so that, at the proper season, 
 the stream between the (Irund Falls and tho sea is literally swarming with fish, seeking some 
 place of safety where they may deposit their spawn. 
 
 The first salmon caught with the artificial fly in the Nipisaguit were taken by two residents 
 of Bathurst ami two Ilnglish olRcers, in August 1815, Incited to the attempt by the stories which 
 the lumberers told of tho numbers and boldness of tlio fish, they made an expedition to tho Grand 
 Falls, and in two days killed ninety salmon and thirteen grilse ; they, however, laboured, on 
 this occasion, vuidcr great disadvantages, as they had only one canoe and one gaff between 
 them. Since that time, there have been usually five or six rods on tho river during each 
 season, but seldom more ; still, the fish liave learnt what an artificial fly is, and, with the 
 exception of the first run of the year, are sufficiently shy to render some amount of skill necessary 
 to capture them. 
 
 Halmon are taken in nets in Bathurst Bay, in the month of June, but they seldom ascend 
 the river until July; during that month and August fish arc continually running. The first 
 arrivals consist generally of females alone, after which they arc accompanied by tho males, and 
 in August are followed by large numbers of giilse. The time, therefore, for tho fisherman 
 to arrive on this river is the first week in July, as he may then enjoy eight weeks of uninter- 
 rupted sport. 
 
 All fishermen crossing the Atlantic, will, of course, bring their rods, tackle, &e. ^vith them ; 
 but they cannot possibly make a greater mistake than that of encumbering themselves with a 
 niuuber of superfluous articles. Two good strong salmon-rods, with spare tops ; two or three 
 
iHTBomnoHv ciHHi'ni. 
 
 m 
 
 hundriHl-ynrd Vxnr*, nn Hiif ns coiHi^ttMit vvitli !*tr«iii^fli, wiili winclwH (o miitdi ; Nlii^lo.Kut 
 leii^ihs, Htuincd with ink ; with i,'iill', mid pockct-sculo, -innko up t\w IJNt i>l' iii<ci>NHnrii'<«. 'I'ht' 
 iVwH uiiL'd on thi< stnMii) an* miiiiiII, iiiiil ol' a moImt colour; hut, U!« ninny of tho i'iuum-.iikih uro 
 ox|K>rt tly>iuiik<-ri«, ii kimhI utock of t'onthin-H iiiid mnti'rii'l is almost profDraldit to u lur((i< tuaortitlttiit 
 of rcmly-inado tlifs; n i^un ia not nut ol' pliiou amuni^st th)> outlU, an hoiirH aru to ho miit with 
 on tho river, and Nninllcr k'»"i* i** oonipnnitivoly pluntiful; but a viiluublu piuvo ruint thu rink of 
 h(>in^ ruined in n oiiiioc voyii^o. 
 
 Altii(>U);h situntod in wimt may ho f^jniortilly considortHl lui out-of-tho-wny p«rt of tho world, 
 DnthurMt U vim\y and (juickly roachod in tho prosiMit diiyn of railwiiyH and iitoiimhoatH. In tvn duya, 
 nt tho furthoHt, Cunurd'n Htoumors transport tho travoUor from Livorpool, EiiKlnnd, to Hnlirux, l/.H.; 
 from tluMuv, a throe duyi*' journoy, oithor hy soa or land, hrini^H him to tho niouth of tho Nlplita^ult, 
 Whon, fati^?uod hy continuous travel, iio arrives at llathurst, ho will ftn<l that, howovor iNdiind 
 the rest of the world itn inhahitants may bo in other roHpeets, they are unrivalled for tlieir 
 kindness ond hosi)itality to stranufors. Il(< will rest himself in (wmfort, if not in luxury, lit tho 
 Wellington Hotel, kept hy ono of tho most eccentric and attentive of landlords, Mr. Daldwin ; 
 and can obtain every kind of jirovision for his stay on tho rivor at tho store of Mr. Hmitli, 
 who is well known for his unvaried civility to visitors. 
 
 Before ascendini; the river, however, and commencini; tin' work of i/i'tilnwlinn, it is neeoMHary 
 for the fisherman to hiro a canoe and two men, who will convoy liim and his stores to tho 
 station he has decided upon occupyins^, and assist him in eampini^ and fishing there. Tho 
 canoe-men who aro employed on these occasions, and who are of French entraction, live on tho 
 hanks of the river, and are perfectly acquainted with every jiart of it. For their servict's thoy 
 arc each in tho habit of receiving a dollar a day and their food. It is impossible to s|M'ak too 
 highly here of this class of people ; tho skill with wiiicli they manage their light barks, 
 forcing them up " pitches," guiding them down, or holding them steady and motionless in tho 
 midst of the most rapid stream, to give tins fisherman a better chance of a cast, is only u small 
 part of their accomplishments. They all love fiy-fishing, and are no mean proficients in tho 
 art, though they never spoil their emi>loycrs' sport by attempting to kill fish with the rod, but 
 only give vent to their enthusiasm in tho cause by " galling " the still uncomiuered fish, u 
 proceeding in which they are most wonderfully expert. Tliey are most of them good cooks, can 
 repair rods, tie flics neatly, mend clothes, wash them, maki^ mocassins, and do fifty other things, 
 which cannot Ik; narrated in detail heiti. llosides being honest in tho extreme, civil, and obliging, 
 they aro iwrfoctly sober, drinking little else than tea and iH^ppermint water ; and, last, but not least, 
 they arc amusing companions round the camp-fire, and possess u large stock of storiei and songs, 
 in the singing and narration of which they wile the time pleasantly away. Tho " Vinoaus " and 
 tho " Chamberlains " arc among some of the best-known and most exi)erienccd ; but tlioM nni very 
 few amongst them who will not give satisfaction to any reasonable employer. And now, having 
 brought the sportsman as far as tho scone of his future triumphs, and placed him in the liuiidM 
 of tho men described above, with a wish that every good fortune may attend him, it is time to 
 bid him farewell, and to proceed to a more detailed description of tho ditrcrimt parts of the rivor. 
 
 ' I 
 
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 i!»TB(>i>rrr*mr rnAF^Rk. 
 
 hurwlppd^yaxd Hnt's, a* ftiw «» eott«iit«nt with Mtnmvtli, "jdi uinclu's to iiifiU;li ; «iii^k'.jynt 
 ImiirtU*, sUiBtnl with ink; wUii gatf, siiul jKM.'k#»t.!«wili<, • nmkf ii|i (ho Ijnl of ncci .^firiiM. 'I'lic 
 Am wtOii «»« thi." «tr.'«m ftrv »mnU, Ami <ii' i» wilxjr i^olcur; l>u(., ai uinny '>!' tin- lann-in-n iin- 
 '.<s}«<rt i1y-rHi»kt«rst, ft |:0(>d stoek uf fwtJi-r* ami tiuilihirl is rtlnioi.). |iivrntililc lo u laij.;!- .mNHilnn-iil 
 'tf tviaUy.nMKh,' flie*. a awn 1»» w»' '«»t fr |«Iim«' \i\wn\\(,s{ ih- iuiUii, mh lnvirN an; to lie timl witli 
 «jn Uw rivpp, aud swalWr ^bmi h wjuipwi-ntiroly |ili;rttt!'a) , hut u viilimbln \m'w rmw llio ritk ol' 
 
 A.lthoujfh <trtnAtiui in vyjtiil. maif Ihj '^rn'rilly fttn«iiloro<l dii oul-df-lhc-uay part of lln! world, 
 Hatlitirit IS fsu-jiy funl «j««,*kly nm-iwd id thu {iiVMsnt ikj>> nf I'SkUrtayi and ttlcii'iihuat'* In ten flavH, 
 !it the' I'lirtlM-sl, <^9ii«rr*N sfetisSCTh iransfwrt fhi« irtivellnr itfnn I »vorj>'x)l, Kii|U'luri(l, in lliilil'iix, \'iM.; 
 Iioui tUi-nw, H fhr^T ilav*' loufnny, ♦•if^jiT by «w or liimJ, brin^K hiin In fhi- iiioiilh of lh«! Niiti!«(i;;iiit 
 Wlien, l!ttitru»»(i by twHiwiofts r«-avcj, Iw urriVR'* at I'wihor^l, tu; will tiud Uiut, hownvcr Imhirxl 
 the iTst of \\w world »l<> iuliatMt!ifjt*< may b*' in >A\>vr n'M\vvXn, thf> ;ir.' nnr.'villcd for their 
 kiiidncss and himpitfiljty h rtmu^rtsfs. Hf; will rest liirUNcif in <i<fltlUti, iC not in lutuiy, nt the 
 Wollinicton Ifi.tri, k«-*p'- l)> .iii»- nf tU' riKwl fcccnlri"- aii'l f,tfi<!(tivr tt litndlord*. VI r, Hald«i»i ; 
 an<l can 'dmiin c.wt-- kii,4 nf jirfA'ii^ioH tor hi's stay on 111'- Mv,.r fsi iln- sIdh- ■,! Mr. Smith 
 who is widl kriowin !•>:■ lu.t unsariM ovtiilv tu visitors. 
 
 ISoforc :Lscini<iitiir sh«» rivpr, bov«/»v; r .it.,( 'nitimi'inMnj •/» ..-irX of il,ii/rii)(iOH, it if iif!C(!<i<«iJ*v 
 Tor tho. ft.sh(.'rniaii t<> iun* a cjoxv- iirn! tv.<i moji, wh<' ^iH frnvi-y him nnd his vti'i'ic to ilio 
 5faiion hv h!\A dix'idfd iipoo '>.,-<-ufyi'ia[s ^-o-i wsi.st hi.'i. ui .oinpiri!; nnil ftHJiir..!^ i1i«ti'. Tin' 
 '-ji,!<im»ii;a wii'i Miv i-utplojit! cit ihisi' 'wivw.^ii-.. ioid \vii.. ifr t,f i'Vi'tiidi "xtracti.'!), liv(' on the 
 fisnk* if iiw fn,-j(, .Mid tu-' poff'-rtli a.'<jiLiin«<!iJ with ct.v (mrt 'if ii. Tur th. ir MTiici's thov 
 
 I'M- I'<i(kJ. It is iiiipoHHihlc to s|icak (oo 
 
 • • i' liicv iiianauri' Ih.ir li;,'lit harks, 
 
 >!f'Hi Nli'ady (ind aiolionh-M io th" 
 
 ■ ' -hani'i' ol' a casf , is miiIj a ■.mall 
 
 . t .'Ui.' no moan |if<diciiai(s in tho 
 
 ' •<),';. fu U. kill llxh with tho rod, hut 
 
 ' '' -'4 rtw> •till iin<'oiii{iit-ri.'<i liuli, .% 
 
 ■ I «<f(*4 (il ihiMii irood <'o<>kx, ran 
 
 ■*• ^«.!;»- .kM , .-m*! do fifty i.tlhT liiin(j;M, 
 
 ». «.< It. *;- r.irt-ncu', civil, and (ddixini?, 
 
 .t HfiBfi «f.tn'. 4^,^.■^, and, lilHt, hot nid lca»t, 
 
 ! :-;**»'(» 1 ,1 |;i) ,-. »»,.«id. (,f storiwj and soiil,'h, 
 
 i- ! i'" it-*sntlj^ dtii i' Chi- ■' Vinoaus ' .iml 
 
 '» s «o^' Ufiiiit cVIKTi' (uvu ; liot ttiofc arc Ml-y 
 
 i' • ' .1,'. •! .tsonahlc <'m(»ln( t And oow, hnvinjj 
 . .« mtori" «riuiii|di*, and phu rd Ion, io thi- louidi* 
 i 'i-ofy (fjiod for". NIC may alt< nd hon, r' i» t^in- to 
 « ■■ d.«wtti*ti'-iii d till' din'or<ii( jiart'i ol ilu i-irfr 
 
 at' . ;uMi i«i »i»< 'lAisii .■!■ r^H'ivjvinc u dollar a day and ■ 
 iot,hiy hi-.Tf id lio^ class of pooidi' ; the skill vvith 
 infouif ilu-r.i i;ii " pilt iu*s," Lfnidinii thoni iliovii, or hol<' 
 mtd»t of the moHt rnpid str'uni, lr> u'ivi; tlic lishcrinait . 
 part of thoir iiecon!plishot*;ni> Tlii\\ v\ lovo fly-li^'iti 
 att, tliouirh tlwy oovcr njioil thoir cinii'ktjofH' sport In 
 i/rily pvo APol to tht'ir imtlnj^i'ism in she cause by 
 proct'ciluiiT ill viiiirii they ari' most woiidtirtully c'\p(rt 
 /ppair riwls, lnj tUt'>> ucatiy, im m! <'lnthos, wash thi'oi. u 
 ttUieh '•.iO'Mjt («.' jtarratod in dci.'iil Iutc It.'sidcs hi'ii. 
 tlif'y ur»' i>**t«etiy m/jxt, driukiiiir littlf I'lsi' than '< 
 ihf-y sff»- 'i-naMfiU rtjinpanions round the cniop-'ir 
 .'» Wit' »siuj»i?i)i ioiii iiarratiim of \vh!««!i 'h< ■;■ 
 ♦ he ■' Ciiutt.u'Tlains" arc aiiioriff >o:ii= ■«' 
 iVw anio?i!,'>jt thom who will /lot trr. . ■'! 
 bfoutfht th" .s|iort.sinan us far as lu. 
 of tho ni''ii duswiht'd atMno, mth ■. :-• 
 i»;ii ioiu farewfU, and to procci-d U- .4 v. 
 
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 Tub first sketch is iiitoiuhMl to roprcHdiit timt |mi't of tlin river immediately above the Grand 
 Falls; but no pencil can Huccctssriilly (li'|ti(!t llio wild and solitary character of the scenery. The 
 banks arc formed of immense rocks, lieiipi'd in t^rotcscme confusion by some mighty convulsion 
 of past ages ; between thorn are deep cii'vici'M, some of which arc partially filled up with driftwood 
 and sand, others form wells of water, (flcar as crystal, and of groat depth ; while Nature, aa 
 though ashamed tliat such confusion tthould (txist amotigst lier works, endeavours to cover the 
 whole with the luxuriant mantlo of vegi'tiitioii she, ho lavishly distributes in that part of the 
 world. Over this bed of stone tlio riv(!r Imsteiis, taking one or two little leaps, preparatory to 
 its great fall of one hundred and ten fectt. Above tliis spot, the Nipisaguit is little kno\vn: 
 parties of lumberers have, of course, gone up it, and tiicir camps stand on its banks; but they 
 arc the only traces of human habitalioti between the Falls and their source. A few parties of 
 fishermen, too, have " gone through," /, c, iiavo aMcended the; stream, and by making a portage 
 of about six miles through tho woods, gaiiKMl tlici iiead-waters of tlie Tobiquc, and descended 
 by that river into the St. John's. 'I'his expedition, however, is attended with no little hardship; 
 the numerous rapids, and tiie great shallnwiieNS of inaiiy of the higher parts of tho Nipisaguit, 
 make long portages necessary, a priMceditig wliicli the impenetrable nature of tho bush that 
 clothes its banks, the heat, and, above all, the niOM(|uiloes, render one of great toil and discomfort. 
 There arc no salmon above, as tlieii* nso'tit is ellec'tually stayed by the height of the Grand 
 Falls; but ([uantities of large brown trout exist llicre, greedy and fearless in tho extreme, and 
 easily caught by the most clumsy imitation <»f llie tly, or even by a ()i('ee of red flannel fixed on 
 the hook. The canoe-men tell straiigi! stories of the numbers of moose, bear, beaver, &c., that, 
 attracted by the undisturbed solitude, still IVcipient its banks. .Several species of wild duck, too, 
 arc abundant there; and, in the autumn, many of the tiappers, or young birds, are caught in 
 the vortex of th(! falls, and, by it, iineeri'moiiiously iiitroduced to a new world below, where they 
 ibrm an agreeable variety in tin bill of Inn' of some hungry fisherman. The waters at the head 
 of the Grand Falls once roared and foamed |Imoii','Ii a miicli narrower passage; but, a few years 
 ago, the channel was widened liy blasting, In rdcilitate the descent of timber, and prevent the 
 o'ccurrcnee of "jams" in so dangerous a posit i'ln 
 
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PLATE II. 
 
 TiiK (Iraiid KuIIh, or Lch OrandH ShiiIh, an. tlio Fi'cncli camMvnicn cull them, are, of course, 
 tlio ^;r(>at si^lit of tlio river, and tliti (luimtioii put to the sportHinan on his return to Bathurtit, 
 next to "How many walmon did you kill?" invariably is, "Did you sen the (Irand Falls?" 
 They certainly ore an imposing si)cctacle, and the more so, because as you approach you do not 
 catch glimpses of them from time to time, but como upon them suddenly and at onco, in all 
 their glory of thunder, foam, and rainbows of spray. 
 
 During the many ages of their existence, the Grand Falls have worn themselves back through 
 the soft limestone rock for a distance of nearly a quarter of a mile, so that Uio stranger who 
 would visit them, must tlrst ascend two or three small rnpids, in a canoe, between two walls of 
 lofty pcrpiMidieuliir rock. His attention, probably, during this proceeding, is too much engaged 
 by the dancing motion of his uanoo, us it is forced through the rush and roar of the boiling 
 waters : ho is too intent Ufion watching the skill and activity of the canoomcn, upon whosi; 
 suren(;ss of hand and eye ho feels certain that his life depends, to regard anything else, until, 
 passing roiuid a sharp turn in the rock, he finds himself in comparatively smoola water, in full 
 view, and within a short distance of the object of his search. The Grand Falls descend from a 
 height of about one hr.ndred and ten feet ; and, though not so in reality, present from many 
 points of view the appearance of a perfectly unbroken cascade. At a little distance below them, 
 and in the foreground of the accompanying plate, is the tirst salmon-pool. The fish, returning 
 exiiausted from their unsuccessful attempts to ascend higher, lie in groat numbers in this place 
 of rest, and, on a bright morning, may bo seen drawn up, or rather laid out, in regular ranks 
 across it ; a sight which, though pleasing and instructive to the observer of nature, is on(! 
 that "rihis" the temper of the most patient disciple of Walton, when he has, pcrha^M tried 
 every fly in his l)ook without attracting more notice from them than, perhaps, a lazy wave of 
 tin; tail. It is, bow(!ver, nearly the Ijcst pool of the river, if not too much fished, as, from the 
 h«'igbt of the banks, the sun does not fall upon it until nearly mid-day. 
 
 Then! is one circimistunee connc'cted with the falls of so singular a nature, that it cannot well 
 be passed over here without some notice. The river, as previously stated, after descending the falls, 
 flows through a deep chasm in the rock of altout a quarter of a mile in length. At the mouth of 
 this pass are some shallows, formed by sand and other "detritus" collected there; and on 
 thos(!, at the commencein<!nt of winter, large pieces of floating ice lodge: as they aceunuilate, 
 and the sinison becoine.s mow severe, they gradually form a solid barrier then;. In vain the 
 rising waters overtop it, Ihey but heighten in their efforts the wall of their prison; until, at 
 length, the dam reaches the level of the banks, and changes the hollow pass into a kind of 
 vast reservoir; in this the falls entirely disappear, while a feeble imitation of them trickles 
 
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 incr or llirouirli the ii'c Id-low. 'I'lic next Croak of tho IVost is to covi'i* in tliis new Inko, and, 
 ill a iiiy;lit or two, it i«i siii'ciy liriilijod ovor, Witli tiu^ iijiproucli of spriii;^, howovor, tho 
 lu'iglitciiiMl lcin|i('nilnrr ol' tin- water liy <l(';;rc<'.H dostruys tlm Imrrior liciow ; tlio loii^-iinprisoiiud 
 stromn is t'lvcd, Jiiul A'w (I'minls Sini/s rcsmiio their Ibriner position ; yet Htill tiiey are hid 
 Iroiii view, the lirid^'e of ice iieross the ehniiiiel is the last part of the work tliat yiohU ti» 
 tlie intliienee of tiie sun, tiiid tlie eanoe-nieii alUriii that tliey iiuve stood upon it hitu in tho 
 spriiiy:, liave listened to tlie roar ol' the iiivisihlc eascade, or, looking throiii,'li a (Issure in tho 
 iei', have caught i^limpses of its foam throuu;h tho darkness heueath tlunn. All tluiso tracoH, 
 however, of winter, are i,'oiicrally (piiekly nunoved hy the freshets of sprini^, and tho river is 
 then open, and lit for luniberin*; purposes; hut even in the hoat of niidsuninier the boatmen know 
 where to look for iee, in cuiiniiii^ly-devised refrii;erators of nature ; viz., eool holes in the rock, 
 within the shadow of the falls, when- the sun never penetrates; so that that luxury, at least, 
 is not waiitini; to those who " rou!,'li it" on the Nipisai,'uit. 
 
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 PLATE III. 
 
 The wooden camp rnprcsented in the accompanying sketch, may appear, at first glance, 
 rather devoid of comfort to those who have never experienced the pleasure of living in the 
 open air; but in a climate like that of New Brunswick, it is by far the most enjoyable kind 
 of dwelling-place during the summer and autumn months — at all events, such was the opinion 
 of four fishermen, who, not before unaccustomed to luxury, spent six weeks of last summer 
 there in health and enjoyment, and bade farewell to it, at last, with the liveliest feelings of regret. 
 
 This camp, raised upon a platform of logs, is dry in the wettest weather. It is situated on 
 the side of a steep hill overlooking the river; and so great is the clearness of the waters below, 
 that from it the numbers and movements of the salmon in the pool beneath can be easily 
 marked. On the loft is the sleeping-apartment, an open tent, with its four blankets of i-ed 
 and blue laid in order, and mosquito-curtains above them: below, with its pewter basins, is 
 the wash-hand stand, of rustic architecture. The camp itself is divided into three compart- 
 ments : the first is the sitting-room ; the next the canoe-men's quarters, who, less refined, combine 
 their sitting-room and bedroom in one; while, beyond that, is the larder, sacred to the cook. 
 Tlie odd little bark hut, with the smoke issuing from its roof, is the curing-house for the salmon. 
 In the foi'cground is the well, with its water clear as crystal, and cold as ice in the warmest 
 day, the receptacle of many a noble fish during the sttiy of the above-mentioned fishermen, 
 and especially wlien, on one memorable morning, its ovcrUowing waters bore token to the presence 
 of forty-one goodly salmon within it. To the question of "How can people live in such places?" 
 an answer is easily given, for all days in camp are so much alike, that a description of one will 
 serve for a very good type of the rest. Witli the first light of morning the cook, not forgetful 
 of the early breakfast that is wont to be ratlier peremptorily demanded of him, awakes from 
 his slumbers, lights the fire, fetches the water, and rouses the remainder of the party. By the 
 time that the duties of the toilet, which consist principally of shaking oneself, are performed, 
 and ablutions got through, breakfast is smoking on the table — breakfast consisting, probably, 
 of fried pork and biscuit, perhaps fried salmon, trout, or oatmeal porridge without milk; tea 
 is the beverage usually preferred on such occasions, the alternative being cold water. These good 
 things, in time, satisfy appetites sharpened by the fresh morning air, and an end of eating is 
 made. Then pipes are lit, rods are carried down the bill to the canoes, and the sportsmen, with 
 their attendants, set out for the pool allotted them, and commence the business of the day. 
 At noon, unless it bo cloudy or wet, the sun is on the water, and the fishing, for the time, 
 at an end : each returns to camp, relates his adventures, and compares notes of sport with the 
 others ; the salmon taken are inspected and weighed, and their size and number duly entered 
 in the journal kept for that purpose. Next follows dinner, consisting of pork or beef, boiled, 
 iis a variiition on the fry of the morning, and tea, cold, instead of warm. By this time the day 
 
: I- 
 
 ^2 . J'liATK III. * 
 
 has become insufferably hot : no exertion can even \w contomplattul witlioiit disconifort ; some, 
 stretched at lazy lengtli on the frosh-pickcd spruce houghs, read light literature of the period ; 
 others prepare some? favourite fly for future conquests; the majority sleep. Should a volunteer 
 be found, who, forgetful of self, will venture into the burnt barrens behind the camp, the abode 
 of the mosquito and blackfly, the hot-bed, too, of every kind of wild fruit, grateful " mashes *' of 
 blueberries and raspberries and sugar will reward hini for his exertions, and be eagerly devoured 
 by the rest of the party on their awakening. Instances of such virtuous self-devotion are on 
 record ; but, alas for human nature ! are but few and far between. As the sun, however, again 
 nears the hori/ou, signs of activity begin to display thoniselves in camp ; but a bath in the 
 cold water below is absolutely necessary, to relVesii its inniat(;s after the heat of the day ; down 
 the hill they accordingly proceed, towel in hand, and are soon disporting themselves therein, at 
 a safe distance, however, from the salmon-pools. Tiiis j)roceeding over, some visit the pools 
 they are to fish on the morrow, inspect tluiir inmates, or, if the tish be rising, take n cast or two 
 across them ; others seek the; basin l)elow, tlu! stronghold of the greedy and much-despised 
 trout, and gratify their lore of destruction by taking tlu^m in great numbers. Thus are they 
 occupied until forced to return by the approach of night, when tin? bloodthirsty mosquitoes sally 
 forth to seek their food ; the night-jars wheel and tlutter round the camp, in pursuit of the numerous 
 moths which the light attracts; while large melancholy owls, sitting motionless on the old 
 rampikes round, watch with great apparent interest the preparations for supper. The large wood 
 fire now throws its light on the hall-hidden shapes of tree and rock ; the canoe-men, seated 
 round its blaze, in turn recount their lumbering adventures, or sing long ballads in French patuis 
 or bad English, but nevertheless with good tune and time ; and thus the night wears on, until 
 the moon, rising over the wooded heights, peeps in upon them with her quiet face, a silent 
 warning to betake themselves to tent and blankest ; Jior is the notice unregarded by those who 
 have already begun to doze over the bright log fire, and, in a short time, nothing but the 
 heavy breathing («. e.) snoring of the sleepers breaks the silence of our camp. 
 
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 I«« fefe|M«!i9 «!M»«<''i*»l»l)' >JOt iw fXfTtioii Clin oven be i!Ont<!m|)lM(<(l witlioiit (lisconifort ; sonic, 
 rtmlrfi*^ Jit laj!,v lfina,th ou tl>o frcHh-pickiKl .spruco houf^hs, nnul lii<lil liti-nilurc of the period ; 
 oiH<,;ip«i iiw|n*r»' Mm-* fa%nurifc tly for future comiiic'«t» : the majority sk-ep. (SliouUi a voliiiilein- 
 h" iowid, who, forttwtfut of «elf, \y\\\ venture Into I lie liinnt liarreiis beliiiul tlu' \fimj), tlio ubodo 
 rtf th* (twjao.iiito and Vilaekl'v. ilie ln.( Led, loo, of i-very kind »( >vi!d I'niit, grateful "niaHlies" of 
 htu»'b<?rrus nml raspliorries nnd kiiu'ki uill nmnrd liiiu for lii;» exHrtioiw, and Iw - '.reily (ievourcKl 
 iiy the rpst of tlie jmrty on tlieir uwakeiiiim iiisttineoN of huuU virtuouh «i.'U'-«h'votion are on 
 rfi«>rd, hut, ala- for hiimun luitiiri*! are lint few and far liotwoen. An the mui, lio.vever, again 
 neurs the horiKou, niiriis of aelivily hcuiii to display tliomst lyes in eatup : InU a hath in the 
 ciiid wa*«r Iwdow is ahwlutely nec•»•^4^fl^ y , if) refrenh its innvUes after the ln«at of the day ; uown 
 rhe Kill ^hey w.*oordiai;ly jiroceed, towel id tinud, and ar<' soon dtHpiirtina; themselves therein, at 
 !i jaFc 4»fftnw, however, Iroin the •.(ilo'ori^poold, 'riii* firiceedmir over, some visit the jiools 
 they ixK U> fith on the morrow. in^jMirt their ininate«t, or, if the fish he nuliig, take a east or two 
 at^THA {tH*3i , *-i4ier« Mtik tlie fia^io helou, the stronghold of the urot^dy and muoh-despisod 
 trout, .'M»4 ifititiiV tfii'if iovi of destrti'v'tioii hy Inkini; tliein in ar.-ai nmnlM'r^. ThuM an; tliey 
 mv«ip^>t liBtii t.wftsii to returiL ' y ilie approach id' ?ii','ht, \vlien tin' hliiodtliifily inoscpiitoes sallv 
 forth to M'i'^ ttidr imd ; the lorliijat^ rtheei and Ihilh r I'oiitnl ihi- eaiup, in pursuit of thf; 'lumorous 
 iiiothii «liui« fcti« liixUt attract* ; >» Isdf Inrijf ni(diinelioly owN. (lifting; inorionle** »n the old 
 tfampjiws nmwd, wateli nith urcat apparent interest the fireparntion!* for mipiwr. 'Die lavye. wood 
 ftfr uo* throw-, its liifiii c.h liie )i;i)i liiridcn HhapcM ol ir''c ui'd r'*i:k , th<? eautj«-men, seated 
 uvu!!'! rt* hlrtjn^, ill Uin; f-e<i«nt their lumlvrintf ndvcntijr.'«, nt s\t\!f lont; ballads in I'Veneh jintoin 
 -rt h^t I^Ajihsdi, but e,fiffTUiel.'wii with uo'il iiMiC and um^' . and thus the nii^ht wears on. until 
 iif«' j»^»fc. ffjit;- o\v>^ tlic >»..!(je«l height., (»•.}>* in upon ibeni with her (juiet fiiet", a silent 
 ■v*4-&*,it -f A»»tiiif thwtftw'tvci. »!> iMit :ij: ; '>t .nk"l , nor i^ the notiee vnirt'irarded by those who 
 te« 5!;i*.*it;- fi-jfuw k' (t.'/,<' •;**•! the tiiisifit i.^y t'trc, and, in a .-liiiii, tinn', nuiliiiiu; but tho 
 U^'^ny 'ffi-.tTVi,-**^ f I' ; -fif-riiia "f the ^|l■el^«f• nr> ;l.k^ the i^ilence of our caiii]!. 
 
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PLATE IV. 
 
 The Littlo Falls arc not more than throo miles distant from Les Ommh Sauls; yet the 
 character of the scenery ahout them is of an entirely different description. The river here is 
 rapid and shallow, its bod broad and full of largo stones and boulders, its banks low and thickly 
 wooded; while here and there the course of the stream is interrupted by small islands, caUed 
 interval flats, formed probably from detritus washed down from above: they may be seen in 
 all the different stages of progression, from the barren sand-bank. hardly visible above the water, 
 to the trcc-covercd, fertile island. The soil of these latter is very rich and productive; they 
 abound with every variety of wild bcrry.-uuts, apples, plums, wild onions, mint, and other 
 self-sown articles of garden produce may bo found on them; and. for this reason, they are 
 often visited by the fisherman camped on the river, to whoso little-varied fare of pork and 
 biscuit these gifts of nature form an agreeable variety. 
 
 The Falls themselves cannot be compared with their larger brethren above them; since they 
 are little more than strong rapids, which render a portage necessary. The absence of deep 
 still pools in this part of the river affords but littlo inducement to the large fish to stay there 
 long on their way to the spawning-grounds ; but the shallow, rippling waters above the Little 
 Falls are the favourite haunt of numbers of grilse : these take the fly freely on the clearest 
 day. and give great [)lay in the broad and rapid stream. 
 
 
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I'LATK V. 
 
 Tiir. pnrt (if till! river which hoiirx thi' nnino of Mid linndiiiuf, nml which tlio nccompnnylnif 
 •h-nwinn is intcn(U«tl to roproscnt, is by no moaiiH tho ItviMt curious or picturnscjup spot on tho 
 Nipi^unuit. 'I'ho usually broad l)od of the river is hiM'o contrnctod within ii rocky chnnncl of 
 nhr»\it twenty ynrds in width, through wiiich the waters pour in one long rapid of great force 
 nnd volume. Above this place tho canoe-iucMi land their pjissongors and cargo, but pass down 
 it tbi'mHclves, choosing rather to run tho risk of being drowned than toko tho trouble of portaging 
 their canoes. It is most I'Kciting to sec these fellows following one nnothcr so rapidly down 
 tho pitch, threading their way through tho sharp rocks that surround them with tho greatest 
 skill. Hometimes th; poles with which tlu'y guide their frail harks become tlrmly fixed in somo 
 «'raek in the rock, and are jerked suddenly from their grasp; but it is with them but the work 
 of a moment to snatch another from the bottom of the canoe, and they are again prepared for tho 
 next diflleuKy. It may be renuirkcd, I'.at, going at tiie rat(! they do, tlie slightest collision 
 would sulllco to sink or upset thciii ; in wbicli case their bodies would undergo very much tho 
 samo process that rags do when ;ii)out to be converted into paper, aiul but a very few shreds 
 would bo discovered at the Dtlicr end of tlic channel. 
 
 The high rock in tin- nii'ldle distance forms a good sind picturesfpu; camping-ground, and 
 from its elevated position, it is more free from tho plague of mosquitoes than otiicr parts of tlio 
 river. Tbero nro also man\ very good salmon-pools in tlie neiglib(mrbood of tho Mid Landing, 
 but tho narrowness of the river, unf(H'tunatcly, affords great facilities for netting, and tho 
 lisb there are too much disturbed by such proceedings to render a good day's sport with the 
 rod nt all ex-rtain. 
 
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PJ.ATE VI. 
 
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 The Falls of the Piil)incau arc tho last and lowost rapids on the Nipisa-uit that arc 
 dignified by such a name. Although not of sutriciont altitude to stop tho strong and perse- 
 vering salmon, sca-tvout are unable to ascend them, and, accordingly, assemble in great numbers 
 below. It is hardly necessary to say that, in sucli a salmon-river as tho Nipisaguit, trout-fishing 
 is much despised, and the trout thomsolvos looked upon very much in tho light of vermin by 
 tho ambitious sportsman; they increase and multiply, however, under such contempt. Tlie 
 stories of their numbers and greediness here arc perfectly incredible; who, for instance, would 
 bcUcvc that in less than an hour over three dozen fair-sized trout were taken with a bare hook, 
 without any disguise of bait or artificial ily? yet there arc many witnesses who can vouch for 
 tho truth of this tale. Tho sea-trout here run to a very large size, and a fresh fish of three 
 pounds weight, in the rapid water, will often show great play before he succumbs. So .no of the 
 best salmon-pools in tlie river are in the vicinity of tho Pahiumiu, and very largo fisl: are often 
 liookcd there, but not so certainly captured ; for, if they take down stream iu their first mad 
 rush, tho rugged nature of the rivcr-banks renders it very dilfieult to follow them. Tho ac- 
 companying sketch represents tho best salmon-pool there at rather low water. An endeavour 
 has been made in it to imitate the wonderful colours wiiich the water-stained rocks wear; but 
 so bright are they in reality, that it is impossible to reproduce them on paper. There is a good 
 wooden camp at the Tabineau, and a fair bruUe-road all the way from Bathurst to them ; so that 
 tho fisherman there is in a comparatively civilized locality. There is one drawback, however, 
 to this part of the river, and that is, that it certainly excels all others in the number and size 
 of its moscjuitocs. The n(!w-comcr no sooner arrives there than he is bewildered by the force 
 and fury of their attacks. All kinds of plans are re-sorted to for the purpose of resisting them : 
 some rub their face and hands with "anglers' defence," a compound of lard, camphor, and 
 creosote, or smear themselves with pork-fat, — tiiis may, perhaps, disgust more civilized flics, 
 but on tho Nipisaguit it only attracts them in greater numbers; others wear green veils tightly 
 fastened round the neck, within which defence some half-dozen mosquitoes invariably insert 
 themselves, and then torment at their leisure their distracted victim. The best plan, after a'l, 
 is to " let them bite." If no spirit or wine is drunk, their sting soon ceases to cause anything 
 mcn-e than a momentary irritation, and tho insects themselves, after a time, bccojne tired of a 
 well-bitten sulyect, and seek some newer arriviil I'ur their i>roy. 
 
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PLATE VII. 
 
 Dm you over shoot a rapid, reader P If not, bo assured tlioro is still a sensation untried by 
 you that will iiuk-kcn your pulse, and bring the blood to your check, however blosi' you may be to 
 th(» ordinary excitements of life. Place yourself in a canoo on the Nipisiiguit, and, in imagination, 
 make trial of the experiment : be careful how you take your seat ; although an easy proceeding 
 enough to the initiated, to ono who has never made the attempt, an outrigger skiflf is hardly 
 more difllcult to get into. Once seated in tho centre of your ship, with your luggage packed 
 behind you for a back-rest, your blanket to sit on, rod in hand, and gun beside you, you aro 
 tolerably comfortable, and have everything belonging to you within reach: you are now gliding 
 rapidly down the placid river, which broadens out us it nears the sea; sometimes you pass 
 between high red eliifs that east their sombre shadows over the stream; now past low green 
 bunks and interval-llats, clothed with every variety of tree, flowers, and ferns, where the river 
 dances and ripples joyously on in the bright sunshine ; hero and there, too, a log hut, with its 
 cattle and inhabitants, reminds you that you are approaching the dwellings of your species. 
 Suddenly, on passing one of the bends of the river, the noise of falling waters strikes upon your 
 ear ; ut this sound the canoe-men smile, take their belts up a hole or two, or roll their sleeves 
 still higher on their arms. As you proceed on, tl:e noise becomes louder, almost deafening; you 
 8(H! the smooth lino which murks the heud of the rapid, tho spruy dashing high above the water- 
 worn stones beneath, while all beyond, as far as your eye can reach, is broken water, roaring 
 and foaming over masstis of rock ; — these aro the Hough Waters. 
 
 At about lifty yards' distance from the tlrst pitch the canoe stops, and, as you are wondering 
 to yourself whether you are in your senses, and yet about to descend in a piece of birch bark 
 the cataract before you, the Frenchmen are talking excitedly in their patois, probably debating 
 which is the safest channel in the then state of the water. When this is settled, all the loose 
 articles are packed behind and fastened securely; then, laying down their jjoles, the men kneel 
 in their places, and paddle iu hand, with a wild about away they go. You have hardly time to 
 draw a long breath and grasp your Cshing-rod tightly, before you are on the edge of the rapid ; 
 anothf moment, and you aro in it ; tho light canoe buries her bows in the water as she pitches 
 down headlong; the man in front of you is hid by the cloud of spray; you catch glimpses of 
 rocks flying l)y you, avoided as though by a miracle, and then, bewildci'cd by the noise and 
 rapidity of the inotion, you do not at once realize that you aro floating quietly in the backwater 
 below, and tho canoe-men are already busy in baling out the half-filled boat. Unfortunately, 
 however, as with almost everything else, the excitement of shooting a rapid docs not long 
 survive its novelty ; after one or two more descents, the English sung froid triumphs, and in 
 a short time, reader, you would be seen carelessly curling your moustache, or knocking the ash 
 
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 tVoii\ >Mur ciu'Mi-, oil till' liriiik nl' ii miniaturi' XiiiKurii. Alllioii:;li Hum proetwHliiig i» cortiiinly 
 atti-ml<<(l \«itli soini- aiiimuit of dimgtir, the Nkill iitid i>X|H<ri(me« of tlii< cuu(mvii>«ii iiro no ki*'')'!, 
 tliat nil uccidont is of raro t)ci'urr»'iut' ; and such is the llKlitiicitN of tlio caiiois that wlii-ii pcrft'ctly 
 full ■'• wafer, it will stiistaiii two or tlin-i' |ifopli' in it, iw lon^ an tlu'y riunaiii ittill, witlioiil 
 »'n. ■■ or u])Ni>ttiiii;. 
 
 rhi« aceomimnyingr Hkotuh Ih iatondnd to roproHcnt cunoos sliootiu^ " Williit'ii IMtcli," onn of 
 tlii> host rapidH ou tlio Uou^'li Wators. This part of thu rivor abounds with saliuou, uad, hut 
 for its proximity to the town, would Ih< hy far tlic b<'st station on tho stronui, ui th« IInIi hurt' 
 arc all fresh-run, strons;, and grtM-dy. Last Hummor, two ftinall hoyi, witli wnttic, strinK. and lly, 
 of liomi* inanuiucturc, liookod hctwoon thirty and forty salmon in thu day, though, from tho 
 want of strength, hotli of themselves and taekle, they secured but a vory smuU part of them. 
 
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 frtnu youf I'i^t, on tiw hriiik of n minia(un> Vlfluufs. .VRboMijI* lhi'« prowscdiiit; is ctu-tiiiiily 
 
 that ail afCiiitnit '<* of r,xr« (x cttrrpuw : ami lU'li i» the li^ilitni km of tim .uikm', Ihul when iH'ilrcily 
 fall uf wiifor, H will itu^iuiu tvrn ur tluw* |M<>pln m it, am long i*^ thoy roinuia btill, without 
 sinkina; or Hi»w»ttin>j. 
 
 Th>' at«<)mprtiiyiag »ttt.€'Uih iis uiU^mlod ».i ri5|in>8t'm liUHxt shooiiuK " WiUiu'H I'itcli," uiic tif 
 the Ixsst mpids m Ui', Ifougli WuMtm TUw |'art nl tin rixcr ubmuid/, witli Niilinuii, and, Iml 
 fur it> prtiximity i;. tlt<> lowu. would b- by far the licist .ttfitinu on ilic stvoaiu, us th< ti.sli iifro 
 an; id! fesli-ruu, .«tron«, (md srrwdy Lnsl sunimcr, two «i»;Ul luiys, with watlk-, (.trinir, find ilv, 
 of home manidWr' tiw;, hmikod Iwtm-oa thirty uiid forty sidnion in tin; d;iy, lliou^'h, from the 
 wftut of stroiigrh, both ol thfiuseh t.«<i and tucidc, llwy scttund Imt u yiry sBuail itait of thcjiu 
 
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PLATE VIII. ' 
 
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 „i„ti. . . occHBion , the men, dressed out in their hp«f 
 
 WUI ,t,U go oir, d,..urb tta „o«»(„l l„|,.|,|,a„„ „f ,^ ,„„, ,„„„ "^ 
 
 The part of Batliimt wliid, |. ,„,, ,- ,. . „. . . 
 
 ..1 . . """ P"'"" " connected with the re.1 rf ti,» 
 
 .cttlement by a ,- ,UK»„8lract»d brWgo „r nhont h„lr . •, ■ , 
 
 oont^n, about „% .,rf ,„.„„,. , „ , "" " °^° '° '»»"'• «"'■ "'"Scther, 
 
 Hibernian e, ! ' " ''' '"'"'• '""■• ""' ^'°°°" '^'»''»". though the 
 
 - 2 :: rthm: r: r ^:* ^^"" - '-^ '° ^- - 
 
 .,». wa. the bead.,„.,ter. of the M M , ' " "^'- ''' """ '""'^ "" 
 
 WinkKapig„„ie,. B„H „ th, , "T "'' ''°'" "" ■°"'' "™» ^ "" *"■ 
 
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 out* » bar that ,ie. at the „.„uU, „r .be Ij " """ "°' "°"°"" '" '"'"" 
 
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