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 1 
 
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 1 . 
 
 
 QUEBEC : 
 
 iS IT WAS, AND AS IT IS. 
 
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 QUEBEC: 
 
 AS IT WAS, AND AS IT IS, 
 
 OR, / ' 
 
 A BRIEF HISTORY 
 
 OF 
 
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 THE OIDEST CITY IN CANADA, 
 
 FROM ITS FOUNDATION TO THE PRESENT TIME 
 
 WITH 
 
 A GUIDE FOR STRANGERS, 
 
 TO THE 
 
 DIFFERENT PLACES OF INTEREST WITHIN THE 
 CITY, AND ADJACENT THERETO. 
 
 ftj 
 
 FIFTH EDITION. 
 
 BY CHAS. ROaER, 
 
 PRINTED FOR THE PROPRIETOR. 
 
 1867. 
 
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 PREFACE. 
 
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 Tlio compiler of Ibis little work offers no avulogy for 
 its publication, lie believes, or ratber, be knows tbat it 
 is wanted, and tbat tlie residents as well as tbe visitors 
 wbo are attracted to Quei)ec by its liistoric fame and 
 its unequalled scenery, will find it well wortb a 
 perusal. Quebec is no ordinary or common-place city, 
 for tbough like otlier large communities It carries on 
 trade, commerce and manufactures ; cultivates arts, 
 science and literalur. ; abounds in cbarities, and pro- 
 fesses special regard to tbe amenities of social life, it 
 claims particular attention as being a strikingly 
 unique old place, tbe strong-bold of Canada, and, in 
 fact, tbe key of tbe Province. Viewed from any one 
 of its approaclics, it impresses tbe stranger witb tbe 
 conviction of strengtb and permanency. Tbe reader 
 of American bistory on entering its gates, or wander- 
 ing over its squares, ramparts and battle-fields, puts 
 bimself at once in communion witb the illustrious 
 dead. Tbe acbievements of daring mariners, tbe 
 labours of self-sacrificing missionaries of tbe cross, 
 and tbe conflicts of military heroes, wbo bled and died 
 in tbe assault and defence of its walls, are here re-read 
 with ten-fold interest. Then the lover of nature in 
 her grandest and most ruggea, as in her gentle and 
 most smiling forms, will find in and around it an 
 affluence of sublime and beautiful objects. Tbe man 
 
vi 
 
 THE PUKFACE. 
 
 of science too may be equally gratified, for liere the 
 great forces of nature and her secret ahUiymy may be 
 studied with advantage. Quebec can never be a tann; 
 or insipid place, and with modei-ate opportunities for 
 ad\ancenient, it must become one of the greatest cities 
 of tlie new world in respect of learning, arts, com- 
 mei'ce and manufactures. Tliat it is fast, tliougli 
 perhaps noiselessly, progressing towards industrial 
 groi'vtness, no one who looks at the continually increas- 
 ing number of tall chimneys towering above the 
 surrounding houses in the suburbs will doubt, and 
 the lime cannot be far distant when it will move in 
 this direction with greatly accelerated steps. 
 
 The book, though not without interest to residents, 
 is chiefly designed for visitors, who through its pages, 
 will be directed to the most remarkable objects in the 
 city and its environs. It has been too much the 
 custom with travellers seeking for instructive, plea- 
 surable and healthful recreation, to hurry through 
 this old Cabinet of Curiosities in one or tw^o days, 
 when, in fact, they have hardly commenced to appre- 
 ciate its contents, and, therefore, if by putting this 
 little book in their hands they are induced hereafter 
 to give it a more interested attention, the compiler 
 will be abundantly rewarded for his labour of love. 
 
 No special credit is claimed in the way of originality 
 or arrangement of material, the author liaving freely 
 availed himself of the w^orks of previous writers, but 
 he trusts that the contents will be found to be pertinent 
 and accurate. 
 
 Jiu.ssiiLL's Hou.se, Quebec, May, 1807. . 
 
 ;' I ^ ,i; 
 
 ' • ,,.i. 
 
 •■ii'iJ 
 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Chapter I. 
 
 Formor extent of British Dominion in America — Growth ol' 
 C'anada and United States — Efl'ect of the Conquest of llf)^.* 
 — Discovery ol" the St. Ijawronce by Cartier — Foundation of 
 (Quebec — Progress of the Colony — Champlain surrenders 
 Canada to the Enghsh — ^Tlie ( 'ountry looked upon as worth- 
 less, returned to France — Seminary and Convent established 
 at Quebec — Massacre at Sillery — First Bishop — Sir Hoven- 
 den Walker's fleet lost in the St. I^awrence — Population of 
 Quebec — Visit of Professor Kalm — Appearance of Quebec 
 and neighborhood in 1749 — Present condition of the Forti- 
 fications — Former and present aj)pearance of the Harbour 
 — Interior of a Convent — Reception of a new Governor in 
 1749 — Dog Carts — Shipbuilding— The Habitants—The 
 Ladies of Quebec — And what is to follow. 
 
 Chapter II. 
 
 Remarkable i)eriotls in Canadian History — Increase of Popula- 
 tion — View from Durham Terrace — Consul General a ^- 
 drews on Quebec — General Wolfe and Admiral Saunders — 
 British Fleet and Army opposite Quebec — ^The Bombanl- 
 ment — The Assault at Montmorency — Cook the Navigator 
 — Wolfe and the Poet Gi-ay — ^The Landing — Ascent to the 
 Plains of Abraham — Battle of Quebec — Death of Wolfe 
 and Monument — Death of Montcalm — Surrender of the 
 Town — Sailing of the Fleet — Exultation of the English ** at 
 home " and in America. 
 
 Chapter III. 
 
 The Capitulation — The Cession to Great Britain — Tlie Quebec 
 Act — ^The American Revolution — ^Montgomery's Invasion 
 — General Arnold — Arnold's character — ^The Expedition 
 through the Wilderness — ^The Order of March — A fatiguing 
 Journey — ^The Flag-staff Mountain — Sickness of the Troops 
 — Encampment on Lake Megantic — Descent of the Chau- 
 diere — ^Washington's Manifesto — Arrival at Point Levy — 
 Oossing of the River — Arnold on Plains of Abraham — 
 Arrival of Montgomery — The Siege — British Force in 
 Quebec— The Assault -Skirmish at Pr Us- d€Ville--F fill of 
 Montgomery — Arnold's Attack — Sortie of the Garrison — 
 Loss of the Americans — A Disinterment — Remarks on the 
 Invasion — 1812. 
 
via 
 
 r.ONTKXTS. 
 
 C'ha.Mtei' IV. 
 
 The Robollion— Attack upon Fort jMaMon— Tlio Tompti\tlou— 
 Fncldcnts of tho Escnpo— The Alarm— Tho Aocidonts— An 
 jMicountor in Town— IfousoH of Ifoliigo — Wrath of tho 
 Coninmiidiint— ThoU('r's^'i('^v• of (iuo»)(.*c— Th«^ t'onflagra- 
 liouH of ;Mu.y ami Juno, 1845— The (Jovornniont Hi(hng 
 School Hm-nt. ,. ■• m,^* ,• j, ,^ ,■:■;., . 
 
 €lin|>ter V. ' ' ; 
 
 A Drive— Tho CVmetory— Marino Hospital— ''Chion T>'()r"— 
 Churelios— < 'Jiurchos of England— Proshytorian Churchor.— 
 W(^slovnn, Congrog-itional, and I'.aptist Churohos— St. 
 ratriok's Clnu-ch— Koman Catholic Cathedral— University 
 • of Laval— Water Works— Tlio Music Hall- The Court 
 House— Parliament House— Hotels— Literary Institutions 
 —yho Chaudiert — Lake St. ( 'harlcs— St. Anne. 
 
 CImpter VI. ., ' 
 
 Pleasures of tho Trip— The St. Lawrence ond the watering 
 ])laces— Island of Oilcans- Crane Island- Kaniourasica— 
 
 . Cacouna— Entrance of the Saguenay— Price & Co— Lake 
 St. Jolm— The Crops— Mode of Travelling— The Pcnkol.a 
 
 ' —Russell's Report on tho Snguenay Country. 
 
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 QUEBEC: 
 
 AS IT WAS, AND AS IT IS. 
 
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 chapte:!! f. 
 
 Former extent of British Dominion in America — Growth of Cnnnda and 
 United States— Effect of the Conquest of i 759— Discovery of the St. 
 Lawrence by Cartier — Foundation of Quebec — Progress of the Colony 
 — Champlain surrenders Canada to the English— The Country, looked 
 upon as worthless, returned to France — Seminnry and Convent estab- 
 lished at Quebec — Massacre at Siilery — First Bishop— Sir Hovenden 
 Walker's fleet lost in the St. Lawrence — Population of Quebec — Visit 
 of Professor Kalm — Appearances of Quebec and neighbourhoo<l in 
 1749 — Present condition of the Fortifications — Former and present ap- 
 pearances of the Harbour — Interior of a Convent — Reception of a new 
 Governor in 1749 — Dog Carts— Shipbuilding'— The Habitants' —The 
 Ladies of Quebec — And what is to follow. 
 
 A city more famous in the annals of history, or 
 more picturesfjuely situated than Quebec, ircely 
 anywhere exists. Long the seat of French power in 
 America, it passed in 1759, altogether into the hands 
 of the English, and with it all Canada, so that for a 
 >vhile. Great Britain held dominion over tliat vast 
 extent of territory, from the mouth to the headwaters 
 of the St. Lawrence, and from the source of the Mis- 
 sissippi to the Gulf of Mexico, — which already the 
 Jesuit Fathers had studded with churches, and 
 French Commanders had, if not wisely governed, at 
 least judiciously fortified, — and over all that land 
 
 which the pious zeal of the Pilgrim Fathers, had set- 
 A 2 
 
Q 
 
 CANADA AND THE iJNITED STATES, 
 
 tied and improved, Dulch adventurers liad reclaimed 
 from a wilderness, the London or South Virginia Com- 
 pany had colonized, or which had heen simply 
 granted to some pet lord of a rather privileged king, 
 as a proprietory government — a totality of empire in 
 North America from Hudson's Bay to the mouths of 
 the Mississippi. A. few years, however, after this 
 event, the old English (iolonies of America obtained 
 an independent existence, and Canada, Newfoundland, 
 New Brunswick and No^a Scotia, remained to Great 
 Britain, asylums for United Er^pire loyalists, and the 
 cherished home of those whose peculiar institutions 
 the British people had consented to protect and main- 
 tain. Since then, Canada has rapidly advanced in 
 wealth and population, and Quebec has grown with 
 the Province to great importance as a mi]ila'."y posi 
 tion, and as a seaport and place of business. 
 
 The comparative growth of Canada and the Ignited 
 States, since the former has been a Province of Great 
 Britain and the latter a nation, may be gathered from 
 the fact that immediately preceding that event, or in 
 1753, the English Colonies of New England, Connec- 
 ticut, New York, tl e Jerseys, Pennsylvania, Mary- 
 land, Virginia, North and South Carolina and Georgia 
 contained, with the 5,000 English inhabitants of Nova 
 Scotia, 1,051,000, while the French Colonies of Canada 
 and Louisiana contained only 52,000 people, 7,000 of 
 whom were inhabitants of the latter. ImmediaLely 
 after the conquest of Canada, and especially after the 
 independence of the old English Colonies, the growth 
 and advancement of the latter, compared with the 
 progress in Canada, was very great. The conquest 
 deprived Lower Canada of an accession of new people 
 from Europe. It was a country inhabited by French- 
 
EFFECT OF THE CONQUEST. 3 
 
 men, under the protectorate of Great Britain, and 
 besides the military, such Englishmen as resided at 
 Quebec, Montreal, or Three Rivers, were only factors 
 for the Liverpool or London merchants, and bore no 
 closer relationship to the colonist than the English 
 resident at Canton does to the Chinese. The thirteen 
 United. States, on the other hand, had all become, not 
 personal proprietaries u& Pennsylvania and Maryland 
 were, not the property of personal proprietors, with 
 the government and jurisdiction in the Crown, as in 
 the Garolinas and Jerseys formerly, not plantations the 
 property and government of which rested with the 
 Crown, as in Virginia, New York, and New Hamp- 
 shire, not a property in the people and their represen- 
 tatives, the government being with the Grown, as in 
 Massachusetts Bay, but the property and government 
 in the freemen of the colony as it was in Rhode Island 
 and Connecticut They had secured to themselves in 
 1783, that which Canada only obtained in 1840, and 
 saw perfectea, with some trilling exceptions, in 1853, 
 a government wholly responsible to the people, and 
 thereby a credit in the London Money Market, alTord- 
 hig the ability of making roads and canals, improving 
 rivers and harbours, and of bringing by artificial 
 means, places when unimi)roved, a far way off, in close 
 proximity to each other. 
 
 It is impossible either for an Englishman or an 
 American not to feel an interest in Quebec, long the 
 the chief, and yet the most notable and curious city in 
 Canada. 
 
 The site of the city was first visit d by Jacques 
 Carticr, the celebrated navigator of St. Malo,in France, 
 who, in 1535, being in search of a north-west passage 
 to China, entered the St. La\yrence and made his way 
 
4 QUEBEC FOUNDED. 
 
 to Stadacoiia, a mere collection of Indian huts upon 
 the river St. Charles, below, and to the northward of 
 the promontory on which Quebec now stands. Quebec 
 was founded by Ghamplain in 1608, the agent of a 
 company of merchants who had determined upon mak- 
 ing settlements in Canada. On the 3rd July in that 
 year, Ghamplain selected the base of the promontory of 
 Gape Diamond as the site of a town ; erected huts for 
 shelter ; established a magazine for stores and provi- 
 sions, and formed barracks for the soldiery, not on the 
 hig]iest point of the headland but nearly on the site 
 of the recently destroyed Paj-liament buildings. Hav- 
 ing aflerwai'ds surveyed the lake which bears his 
 name, Ghamplain returned to France to obtain more 
 money and more men, and found a partner in the 
 person of the Gount de Soisson who had been appointed 
 Governor of the new country. De Soisson, however, 
 soon after receiving his appointment died, and the 
 Vice royalty of Ganada was conferred upon the 
 Prince de Gonde, through whose influence Ghamplain 
 was again enabled to sail for Ganada, with some 
 Roman Gatholic Missionaries, who on their arrival, 
 set themselves vigorously to the work of chris- 
 tianizing the heathen. Indeed, churches were soon 
 established from the head waters of the Saguenay 
 to Lake Nepissim. In 1621, the first European 
 was born at Quebec, now a fortified town, and 
 there were more than fifty Europeans in New 
 France ! Six years later, eighteen Huguenots or 
 l-'rench protestants were brought to Quebec by De 
 Gaen ; but Gardinal Richelieu immediately afterwards 
 established the "Hundred Associates," not only to 
 colonize New France, but amply to supply the 
 colonists with necessaries, to send a large number of 
 
 : 
 
 I 
 
SEMINARY. 
 
 5 
 
 clergymen, to be supported by the Associates for 
 fifteen years, and to have glebe or reserved lands 
 assigned to them for sufficient future support. This 
 latter plan of settlement was, however, roughly 
 interfered with by the declaration by England of war 
 against France in 1628, when Sir David Kirk pro- 
 ceeded to the St. Lawrence, burned the Village of 
 Tadousac, and obtained from Ghamplain the surrender 
 of the Fort of Quebec, carrying with him to England 
 all the European inhabitants of Canada. In 1631, 
 Ghamplain was re-appointed Governor of Canada, 
 the country being considered worthless by the people 
 of England ; and colonization was systematically 
 undertaken by the Jesuits. After the death of 
 Champl'.in, which occurred in 1635, the Seminary 
 was founded at Quebec, and the Ursulinc Nunnery 
 established through the instrumentality of the Duchess 
 d'Aiguillon. Next year a very melancholy affair oc- 
 curred at Sillery, which is situated about four miles 
 above Quebec, en the north bank of the St. Law. 
 rence. Four hundred Huron families, men, women^ 
 and children, were massacred by the Iroquois, during 
 service in ihe church. The French were at this 
 period literally confined at Quebec, Three Rivers^ and 
 Montreal ; but, nevertheless, made considerable pro- 
 gress. In 1659, the Bishop of Petrca arrived at 
 Quebec, to preside over the Catholic Church, and was 
 appointed to the Si3e of Quebec by Pope Clement X, in 
 1664. Francois de Laval united the Seminary of 
 Quebec with that of Du Bac, in Paris, in 1796, and did 
 his best for the spread of education, and not a little for 
 the extension of leligion, by obtaining four hundred 
 additional soldiers from France for tlio Garrison of 
 t^uebec, to keep the natives in orde;\ Soon after these 
 
 I 
 
c 
 
 EARTHQUAKE — POPULATION. 
 
 events a rather fabulous earthquake occurred, which 
 filled Quebec with terror, and which is carefully 
 narrated by Charlevoix ; and two years after that 
 occurrence, a Monsieur JoUyet accompanied the 
 Reverend Pere Marquette to the Mississippi, the mouths 
 of which river La Salle afterwards discovered. In 
 1710, New England, being plagued by the Canadians, 
 who allowed their Indians to perpetrate unheard of 
 atrocities, resolved to defebd herself, and asked Queen 
 Anne for assistance. It was intended to send an expe- 
 dition from Boston to attack Quebec. Sir Hovenden 
 Walker, accordingly, sailed for Boston, and there being 
 manned and provisioned by the colonists, sailed for 
 the St. Lawrence, where the lleet was nearly wholly 
 destroyed. About midnight, on the 22nd of August, 
 a part of the lleet was driven among islands and 
 rocks on the north shore, eight or nine transports were 
 cast away, and nearly 1,000 soldiers ^vere drowned, the 
 consequence being that the intended attack upon 
 Quebec was abandoned. Quebec had now 7,000 inliabi- 
 tants, and the banks below the city were laid out in 
 seigniories, the farms being tolerably well cultivated. 
 Professor Kalm, of Aobo, in Swedish I^'indlanu, 
 visited Quebec, in August, 1749, and gives a very 
 interesting account of the then condition and appear- 
 ance of the town and its surroundings. Speaking of 
 the St. Lawrence, he says:— "The river has always 
 (( been a very good defence for the country. An 
 « enemy, and one that is not acquainted with it, cannot 
 (( go upwards, without being ruined ; for in the neigii- 
 « borhood of Quebec^ it abounds with hujdkn hocks, and 
 ,(( has strong currents in some places, whicli oblige the 
 « ships to make many windings." And aft«;r alluding 
 to the supposed origin of the name " Quebec," from 
 
Jf>>.,. 
 
 pnoFEssoR kalm's visit. 
 
 
 Liie Norman " Quel-bec ? " what a promontory or beak, 
 or from the Indian word Quehego — ITow narrow ? 
 (expressive of the sudden narrowness of the river, 
 Professor Kalm says : " The prospect near Quebec is 
 (( very lively from the river. The town lies very high, 
 « and all the churches, and other buildings appear 
 « very conspicuous. The ships in the river below 
 (( ornament the landscape on that side. The powder 
 « magazine, which stands on the summit of tlie moun- 
 <( tain on which the town is built, towers above all 
 '< the other buildings.)) 
 
 « The country we passed by ailbrded a no less 
 « charming sight. The river St. Lawrence flows nearly 
 H from south to north here ; on botli rides of it are 
 « cultivated fields, but more on the west side than on 
 « the east side. The hills on both shores are gteep and 
 <( high. A number of fine hills separated from each 
 (( other, large fields which looked quite white from 
 « tlie corn with which they are covered, and excellent 
 « woods of deciduous trees made the country around 
 « look very pleasant. Now and then we saw a church 
 « of stone, and in several places brooks fell from the 
 « hills into the I'iver. Where tlie brooks are con- 
 it siderable, there thev have made saw mills and water 
 
 7 t> 
 
 « mills. » 
 
 « After rowing for the space of a French mile and a 
 « half, we come to the Isle of Orleans which is a large 
 « island, near seven French miles and a half long, and 
 « almost two of those miles broad, in the widest part. 
 « It lies in the middle of the river St. Lawrence, is 
 « very high, has steep and very woody shores. Ther^ 
 « are some places without trees, which have farm 
 « houses below, quite close to the shore. The isle itself 
 is well cultivated, and within but five houses of stone 
 
8 
 
 PROFESSOR KALM's VISIT 
 
 « large cornfields, meadows, pastures, woods of de- 
 « ciduous trees, and some clmrches, built of stone, are 
 « to he seen on it. » 
 
 Mr. Kalm visits Bay St. Paul, and with the eye of 
 science examines the earth. He conjectures that all 
 the flat ground at St. Paul was formerly the bottom of 
 a river, as a great part of the jilants which are to bo 
 met with, are marine, such as glass wort, sea-milk 
 wort, and seaside pease ; but when he asked the in- 
 habitants w'hether they found shells in the ground by 
 digging for wells, they always answered in the nega- 
 tive. He received the same answer from those who 
 lived in tlie low fields, directly north of Quebec. Now 
 the worthy and learned professor had been ill in- 
 formed, as from the Montmorency to nearly the 
 source of the St. Charles, there is now to be seen layer 
 upon layer of such shells, to the great astonishment 
 of every stranger at all geologically interested either 
 by study or by profession. At Mount Lilac, in Beau- 
 port, and at Marl Farm, in Lorette, marine shells are 
 obtainable in cartloads. 
 
 Kalm more particularly describes the town of Que- 
 bec thus : — The chief city of Canada lies on the 
 western shore of the river St. Lawrence, close to the 
 water's edge, on a neck of land bounded by that river 
 on the east side, and by the river St. Charles on the 
 north side ; the mountain on which the tovv^n is built, 
 rises still higher on the south side, and behind it begin 
 great pastures ; and the mountain likewise extends a 
 good way westward. The city is distinguished into 
 the Lower and the Upper. The lower lies on the river 
 eastward of the upper. The neck of land mentioned 
 before, was formed by the dirt and filth, which had 
 from time to time been accumulated there and by a 
 
TO QUEBEC IN 1749. — THE PALACE. 
 
 9 
 
 rock which lay that way, not by any graoual dimmu- 
 tion of the water. The upper city lies above the other 
 on a high hill, and takes up five or six times the space 
 of the lower, though it is not quite so populous. The 
 mountain on which the upper city is situated, reaches 
 above the houses of the lower city. Notwithstanding, 
 the latter are three or four stories high, and the view, 
 from the palace, of the lower city, (part of which is 
 immediately under it,) is enough to cause swimming 
 of the head. There is only one easy way of getting to 
 the upper city, and there part of the mountain has been 
 blown up. The road is very steep notwithstanding it 
 is winding and serpentine. However they go up and 
 down it in carriages and with waggons. All the other 
 roads up the mountain are so steep that it is very 
 difficult to climb to the top of them. Most of the mer- 
 chants live in the lower city where the houses are 
 built very close together. The streets in it are narrow, 
 very rugged, and almost always wet. There is like- 
 wise a church and a small market-place. The upper 
 city is inhabited by people of quality, by several i:)er- 
 sons belonging to the different officers, by tradesmen, 
 and others. In this part are the chief buildings of the 
 town, among which the following are w'orthy of par- 
 ticular notice. 
 
 I. The Palace is situated on the west or steepest side 
 of the mountain, just above the lower city. 
 
 It is not properly a palace, but a large building of 
 stone, two stories high, extending north and south. 
 On the west side of it is a courtyard, surrounded partly 
 with a wall and partly with houses'. On the east side, 
 or towards the river is a gallery as long as the whole 
 building, and about two fathoms broad, paved with 
 smooth flags, and inclosed on the outsides by iron rails, 
 
la 
 
 THE CHURCHES. 
 
 from whence the city and the river exhibit a charming 
 prospect. The gallery serves as a very agreable walk 
 after dhnier, and those who come to speak with the 
 Governor General wait here till he is at leasure. The 
 palace is the lodging of the Governor General of 
 Canada, and a nnmber of soldiers mount the guard 
 before it, both at the gate and in the courtyard ; and 
 when the Governor, or the Bishop, comes in jr goes 
 out, they must all appear in arms and beat the drum. 
 The Governor General has his own chapel where he 
 hears prayers ; however, he often goes to mass at the 
 church of the Recolkls^ (a kind of Franciscan Friars, 
 called Ordo SlL Francisci striclioris obscrvaiillop^) which 
 is very near the palace. 
 
 II. The Churches in this town are seven or eight in 
 number, and all built of btone. 
 
 The Cathedral Church is on the right hand, coming 
 from the lower to the upper city, somewhat beyond 
 the Bishop's house. The people are at present em- 
 ployed in ornamenting it. On its next side is a round 
 steeple, with two divisions, in the lower of which are 
 some bells. The puli^it and some other parts within 
 the church are gilt. The seats arc very fine. 
 
 The Jesuits' Church is built in the form of a cross, 
 and has a round steeple. This is the only church that 
 has a clock, and I shall mention it more particularly 
 below. 
 
 The Recollets' Church is opposite the Gate of the 
 Palace, on the west side, looks well, and has a pretty 
 high pointed steeple, with a division below for the 
 bells. 
 
 The Church of the Ursulines has a round spire/iLil 
 
 The Church of the Hospital. .Hm^' 
 
 The Bishop's Chapel. .oimibftt-:- ■H:^.-!:^,-:- 
 
LE S^MINAIRE. 
 
 U 
 
 The Church hi the Lower City was built in 1 GOO, 
 after the town had been deUvered from the English 
 and is called Notre Dame de la Victoin. It has a small 
 steeple in the middle of the roof, square at the boltoni, 
 and round at the top. ' 
 
 The little chapel of the Governor General may like- 
 wise be ranked among the churches. 
 
 III. The Bishop's house is the first, on the right 
 hand, coming from the Lower to the Upper Town. It 
 is a fine large building, surrounded by an extensive 
 court-yard and kitchen-garden on one side, and by a 
 wall on the other. 
 
 IV. The College of the Jesuits, which I will describe 
 more particularly. It has a much more noble appear- 
 ance, in regard to its size and architecture, than the 
 palace itself, and would be proper for a palace if it had 
 a more advantageous situation. It is about four times 
 as large as the palace, and is the finest building in the 
 town. It stands on the north side of a market, on the 
 south side of which is the Cathedral. 
 
 V. The House of the Regollets lies to the west, near 
 the palace and directly over against it, and consists of 
 a spacious building, with a long orchard, and kitchen- 
 garden. The house is two stories high. In each story 
 is a narrow gallery with rooms and halls on one or 
 both sides. 
 
 VI. The HoTEL-DiEu, where the sick arc taken care 
 of, shall be described in the sequel. The nuns that 
 serve the sick, are of the Augustine Order. 
 
 'VII. The house of the Clergy, Le Seminaire, is a 
 lar^-e biiilding, on the north-east side of the Cathe- 
 dral. Here is on one side a spacious court, and on the 
 other, towards the river, a great orchard, and kitchen- 
 garden. Of all the buildings in the town, none has 
 
12 
 
 INTENDANT's HOL'SE. 
 
 so fine a prospect as that in tho garden belonging to 
 this house, which lies on the hiqh shore and looks a 
 good way down the river. The .lesuits, on the other 
 hand, liavc the worst, and hardly any prospect at all 
 from their college ; nor have the RccoUcts any fine 
 view from their house. In this building all the clergy 
 of Qucb(?c lodge with their Superior. They have 
 large pieces of land in several parts of Canada, i)re- 
 sented to them by the Government, from which they 
 derive a plentiful income. ., 
 
 VIII. The Convent of the Ursuline Nuns shall be 
 mentioned in the sequel. 
 
 These are all the chief buildings in the town, but 
 to the northwest, just before the town, is : 
 
 IX. The house of the Intendant, a public building, 
 whose size makes it fit for a palace. It is covered 
 with tin, and stands in a second lower town, situated 
 northward upon the River St. Charles. It has a large 
 and flue garden on its north side (now the Gove' - 
 ment wood-yard). In this house all the deliberations 
 concerning the Province are held ; and the gentlemen 
 who have the management of the Police and the civil 
 I)ower, meet here, and the Intendant generally pre- 
 sides. In affairs of great consequence, the Governor 
 General is likewise here. On one side of this house 
 is the store-house of the Crown, and on the other the 
 prison. 
 
 With the exception of the Bishop's palace to the 
 right of Prescott Gate, and on which the ruins of the 
 Parliament buildings built in 1852, and destroyed by 
 fire in the spring of 1 854, now stand ; the house of the 
 IntendaiiL the remains of which were swept over by 
 the great lire of 1845, which destroyed the whole of 
 the suburb of St. Roch ; the Church and residence of 
 
THE HOUSES. 
 
 13 
 
 llio Hecolels, on llie ruins of which stand tlie present 
 Cathedral of the Church of England and the Coiirt 
 House ; and the palace of the Governor General or 
 Chateau St. Louis, destroyed by fire on the 23rd 
 January, 1834, when occupied by the Governor in 
 Chief, General Lord Aylmer, all the churches, chapels, 
 and public buildings, so minutely described by Pro- 
 fessor Kalm, are still extant, and, with the exception 
 of the Jesuits' College now occupied as a barracks by 
 the Queen's troops, still devoted to the purposes for 
 which, before the conqu(;st, they were intended. 
 
 It is interesting to know how -(Quebec, in other 
 rospects, appeared a hundred and seven years ago, 
 and Professor Kalm tells us. 
 
 « Most of the houses, he says, are built of stone, 
 and in the upper city, they arc generally but one story 
 high, the public buildings excepted. I saw a few 
 wooden houses in the town, but they must uot be 
 rebuil' when decayed. The houses and churches in 
 the city are not built of bricks, but of the black lime 
 slates of which the mountain consists, whereon Quebec 
 stands. 
 
 « When these lime slates are broken at a good depth 
 in the mountain, they look very compact at first, and 
 appear to have no shivers, or lamcllx^ at all, but after 
 being exposed a while to the air, they separate into 
 thin leaves. These slates are soft, and, easily cut ; and 
 the city walls, together with the garden walls, consist 
 chiefly of them. The roofs of the public buildings are 
 covered with common slates, which are brought from 
 France, because there are none in Canada, (a mistake 
 by the way, as has since been discovered.) 
 
 « The slated roofs have for years withstood the 
 
 changes of air and weather, without suffering any 
 b2 
 
li 
 
 THE STREETS. 
 
 (l.'im.ign. Tlio private houses have roofs or boards, 
 whicli are laid parallel to the spars, and soiiietiines 
 !o the eaves, or sometimes obliquely. The coriKirs of 
 houses are made of grey small grained lime stone 
 which lias a strong smell, like the stinkstone [nitrum 
 suiUitm^ or lapis sidllus prismatlcus, and tiie windows 
 an; generally encased with it. The outside of the 
 houses are generally w'hitewashed. The window's are 
 placed on the inner side of the walls ; for they have 
 sometimes donble windows in winter. The middle 
 roof has two, or at most three spars, covered with 
 boards only. The rooms are warmed in winter by 
 small iron stoves, which are removed in summer. 
 Thi' floors arc very dirty in every house^ and have the 
 appearance of being cleaned but once every year ! 
 
 « The Powder Magazine stands on the svuninit of 
 the mountain on which the city is built, and south 
 ward of the palace. 
 
 <( The streets in the upper city have a sutficient 
 breadth, but are very rugged, on account of ^1:6 rock 
 on which it lies ; and this renders them very disa- 
 greeable to foot passengers and carriages. The black 
 lime stones basset out and project everywhere into 
 sharp angles, and are very crooked. 
 
 « The many great orchards and kitchen gardens, 
 near the house of the Jesuits, and other public and 
 private buildings, make the town appear very large 
 though the number of houses it contains is not very 
 considerable Its extent from south to north is said 
 to be about six hundred toises, and from the shore of 
 the river along tlie lower town, to thv. western wall, 
 between three hundred and fifty and four hundred 
 toises. It must be observed that this space is not yet 
 wholly inhabited ; for on the west and south sides. 
 
FORTIFICATIONS. 
 
 15 
 
 along the town walls, are largo pieces of land without 
 any buildings on them, and destined to Im; l)uilt upon 
 in future times, when the nuinher of inhabitants will 
 be increased in Quebec. 
 
 II The town is surrounded on all sides bv a high 
 wall, and jspeciall> towards the land. It was not 
 quite completed when I was there, and they were 
 very busy in finishing it. It is built of the ab'ove 
 mentioned black lime slate, and of a dark grey sand- 
 stone. For the comers of the gates they have em- 
 ployed a grey lime stone. TUey have not made any 
 walls towards the water side, but nature seems to 
 have worked for them, by placing a rock there, which 
 it is impossible to ascend. All the rising land there- 
 about, is likewise so well planted with cannon, that 
 it seems impossible for an enemy's ships or boats to 
 come to the town, without running into inmiinent 
 danger of being sunk. On the land side the town is 
 likewise guarded, by high mountains, so that nature 
 and art have combined to fortify it. » 
 
 So says the professor. The same French walls 
 which were then building still exist, the same scarp 
 and counterscap, with some addition made in Sir James 
 Craig's time outside of Lewis gate, while on the 
 summit of the mountain, where stood the Powder 
 Magazine in 1749, stands one of the most solid, inge- 
 nious, and impregnable of modern fortifications in the 
 world — the Citadel of Quebec. Indeed, the whole 
 town is now most strongly fortified and heavily armed. 
 In front of the Seminary garden, where a street of 
 buildings, 80 or 90 feet in height, are at present erecting 
 for Laval University, the Seminary established by 
 Francjois de Laval, Bishop of Petrea, having been raised 
 to the dignity of a University by Queen Victoria in 
 
16 
 
 THE GUNS. 
 
 1854, there is a grand battery of thirty-two pounders, 
 on iroa traversing platforms, a curtain of the largest 
 sized morturs, sixty-eight pounders in Imlf moons, and 
 carronades at the angle, facing the mouth of the St. 
 Charles. On the north side upon the steep over the 
 Palais, there are block houses at the gates, half moons 
 of thirty-two pounders on traversing jilatforms at 
 intervals, and bastions literally load?d with long heavy 
 guns, supported by bomb proof magazines, ready for 
 service, situated inmiediately in rear; the Artillery 
 barracks above St. Rocks, are studded with gunports, 
 and the ramparts, curtains, and bastions facing the 
 Glacis of Gallows Hill grin with long heavy guns, 
 while down and up St. John and St. Lewis streets, 
 carronades are pointed so as completely to sweep them, 
 if need be, and the ditcbes of the old French line of 
 works newly and strongly faced with the mosts durable 
 cut stone are protected by thirty two pounders and 
 even heavier guns without number. 
 
 The Bishop, whose See was in Quebec, was then the 
 only Bishop in Canada (now, in 1857, there are eight 
 or nine, an Archibishop and a Bishop Coadjutor in 
 Quebec, a Bishop in Three Rivers, a Bishop and 
 Coadjutor in Montreal, a Bishop in Bytown, a Bishop 
 in Kingston, and a Bishop in Toronto,) and his diocese 
 extended to Louisiana, in the Mexican Gulf northward, 
 and to the south seas westv/ard. 
 
 When Mr. Kalni visited Quebec, it was the seaport 
 and trading town in all Canada. There were thirteen 
 great and small vessels in the harbour, and « they 
 expected jioie in.)» But no other than French ships 
 could come into the harbour. Now, Russian, Prussian, 
 Norwegi.in, Ihemen, Portuguese, French, American 
 and British Hags can iluUer and have ilutlerecl tJ tbe 
 
 : 
 
THE HARDOrR. 
 
 17 
 
 breeze together in the harbour of Quebec ; and only 
 two years ago there was in the port, a French bark 
 from St. Malo, the birth place of Jacques Gartier, the 
 discoverer of Canada, and His Majesty the Emperor of 
 tlie French's Corvette the Capriclcusc lay under the 
 guns of the citadel, for more than a month, while her 
 commander, the Capitaine de Belveze, made a tour 
 tlirough the country, everywhere meeting with that 
 kind attention, which was extendid by the French 
 Governors and Lheir officials, to distinguished strangers 
 in the days of Kalm. Nay, American vessels of war 
 have passed from the great lakes through the St. 
 Lawrence canals to the ocean, their officers ^)eing fclcd 
 by the garrison, while the ships lay opposite the town 
 making necessary repairs for sea. Times have much 
 changed since then. 
 
 Quebec, yet as beautiful and imposing as she ever 
 was, does buciuess with the whole world, dealing not 
 in peltries only, but in every possible description o-' 
 goods, wares, and merchandize. Instead of thirteen 
 great and small vessels being only to be seen opposite 
 the city, three or four hundred crafts, many of which 
 are upwards of 2,000 tons, may be seen during the 
 business session so thickly packed together in the stream 
 as to form almost a floating, or rather a number of 
 lloating bridges, from one side of the river to the other: 
 — steamships from the ocean, floating steam palaces 
 for river navigation, and propellers from the inland 
 seas of the Far West — the sound of the railway whistle 
 heard above the roar of the mid-day gun. 
 
 The Swedish professor was permitted by the Bishop 
 to visit the largest Nunnery in Quebec, at the solicitation 
 of the Governor General. « The cells of the nuns, he 
 &ays, arc in the highest slgre, o« both si(lcs of tliC 
 
18 
 
 A NUNNERY. 
 
 gallery, and are but small, not painted in the inside, 
 but hung with small pictures of saints, and of our 
 Saviour on the cross. A bed with curtains and good 
 bed clothes, a little narrow desk, and a chair or two, is 
 tlie whole furniture of a cell. They have fires in winter, 
 and the nuns are forced to lie in the cold cells. On 
 the gallery Is a stove which is heated in winter, and as 
 all the rooms are left open, some warmth can by this 
 means come into them. In the middle story are the 
 rooms where they pass the day together. One of these 
 is the room where tliev are at work : and has an iron 
 stove. Here they were at their needle-work, embroi- 
 dering, gilding, and making flowers of silk, which bear 
 a great similarity to the natural ones. In a word, they 
 were all employed in such nice works, as were suitable 
 to ladies of their rank in life. In another hall they 
 assemble to hold their juntos. Another apartment con- 
 tains those who are indisposed ; but such as are dange- 
 rously ill, have rooms to themselves. The novices and 
 new comers are taught in another hall. Another is 
 destined for the refectory, or dining room, in which 
 are tables on all sides; on one side of it is a small 
 desk, on which is laid a French book, concerning the 
 life of those saints who are mentioned in the New 
 Testament. When they dine, all are silent, one of the 
 eldest gets into the desk, and reads a part of the book 
 before mentioned ; and when they are gone through it, 
 Ihjy read some other religious book. During the 
 meal they sii, on that side of the table which is turned 
 towards the wall. Almost in every room is a gilt table, 
 on which are placed candles, together with the picture 
 of Our Saviour on the cross, and of some saints : before 
 these tables they say their prayers. On one side is the 
 churcJi^ and near it is a large gallery, divided from the 
 
 
 tl 
 
THE RECEPTION OF A GOVERNOR IN 1749. 
 
 19 
 
 church by rails, so that the nuns could only look into 
 it. Tn this gallery they remain during divine service, 
 and the clergyman is in church, where the nuns reach 
 him his sacerdotal robes through a hole, for they are 
 not allowed to go into the same vestry, and to be in the 
 same room with the priest. This convent contains 
 about fifty nuns, most of them advanced in years. 
 
 i( The hospital makes a part of the convent. It con- 
 sists of two large halls, and some rooms near the 
 apothecary's shop. In the hall are two rows of beds 
 on each side, within each other. The beds next to the 
 v/all are furnished with curtains, the outer ones are 
 without them. In each bed are fine bed clothes with 
 clean double sheets. » 
 
 Those gentlemen, who came to Quebec from Bos- 
 ton and New York, on an international visit in 1850 
 or 1851, when they were attended by the Mayor and 
 City Council, and shown through the Citadel and 
 Hutel Dieu, will recognize^ in regard to the latter, 
 the accuracy of Kalm's description. 
 
 The reception of a Governor in the time of the 
 French, was marvellously like similar receptions at 
 the present time. « At half an liour after eight, r.:iys 
 Kalm, the new Governor General went from the ship 
 into a barge, covered with red cloth, upon which a 
 signal with canons was given from the ramparts ; for 
 all the bells in the town to be set a ringing. All the 
 people of distinction went dow^n to the shore to salute 
 the Governor, who, on alighting from the barge war 
 received by (the former Governor) the Marquis de la 
 Gallisoniere. After they had saluted each other, the 
 Commandant of the town addressed the rew Governor 
 General in a very elegant speech, which he answered 
 very concisely ; after which all the cannons on the 
 
20 
 
 THE RECEPTION OF A GOVERNOR IN 1749. 
 
 ramparts gave a general salute. The wh( ^e street, up 
 to the cathedal, was lined with men in arms, chiefly 
 drawn out from among the burgesses. The Governor 
 General then walked towards the cathedral, dressed 
 in a suit of red, with abundance of gold lace. His 
 servants went before him in gr^^en, carrying fire-arms 
 on their shoulders. On his arrival at the cathedral, 
 he was received by the Bishop of Canada, and the 
 clergy assembled. The Bishop was arrayed in his 
 pontifical robos, and a long gilt tiara on his head, and 
 a great crozier of massive silver in his hands. After 
 the Bishop had addressed a short speech to the Go- 
 vernor General, a priest brought a silver crucifix 
 on a long stick (two priests with lighted tapers on 
 each side of it) to be kissed by the Governor. The 
 bishop and ihe priests then went tlirough the long- 
 walk up to the choir. The servants of the Governor 
 General followed with their hats on, and arms on 
 their shoulders. At last came the Governor General 
 and his suite, and after them a crowd of x>'^ople. At 
 the beginning of the choir, the Governor General 
 and the General de la Gallisoniere stopped before a 
 chair covered with red cloth, and stood thei-e during 
 the whole time of the celebration of the mass, which 
 was celebrated by the bishop himself. From the 
 church he went to the palace, where the gentlemen 
 of note in the town went to pay their respects to him. 
 The religious of the different orders with tiieir respec- 
 tive superiors like^\dse came to him, to testify their 
 joy on his happy arrival Among the number that 
 came to visit him, none staid to dine but those that 
 were invited beforehand, among which I had the 
 honour to be. The entertainment lasted very long, and 
 was as elegant as the occasion required. 
 
DOG-CARTS — SHIP-BUILDINr.. 
 
 21 
 
 I 
 
 The Governor General, Marquis de la Jonquiere, 
 was very tall and at that time something aho^e sixty- 
 years old. He had fought a great naval battle with the 
 English in the last war, but had been obliged to sur- 
 render, the English being, as it was told^ vastly suj)e- 
 rior in the number of ships and men. On this occasion 
 he was wounded by a ball, which entered one side of 
 nis shoulders and came out at the other. He was verv 
 complaisant, but knew how to preserve his dignity 
 when he bestowed favor.)) . .^ , , . ,, 
 
 DOG-CAUTS. ' • : ; , 
 
 It is only very recently since the use of dogs in the 
 City of Quebec, as beasts of burthen, was prohibited 
 by the City Council. Even yet, some poor people 
 aie allowed to use them in draw'ing wood and w^ater. 
 When Kalm, visited Quebec, he saw two grea' dogs 
 put before a little cart, one before the other. They 
 had neat harness like horses, and bits in their mouths. 
 In the cart was a barrel. The dogs were directed by 
 a boy who ran behind the cart. As soon as the dogs 
 came to the river, they jumped in of their own accord, 
 and when the boy, had filled the barrel, the dogs drew 
 the burden up the hill again, to the house they be- 
 longed to. 1 had seen them bring not only water, but 
 wood, milk, and other things. 
 
 -ti-.Mii.j.f ! 
 
 SHn>-BUILDING. 
 
 'f. 
 
 iiAJ:!v4trfi.i4-;iti:J 
 
 Quebec is now celebrated for the size, synnnetry, 
 and excellent sailing qualities of her ships. Forty or 
 fifty vessels, varying from five hundred to two 
 thousand tons burthen, are annually built here, be- 
 sides steamers and small crafts. In 1748, shipbuilding 
 was, considering the siz'^ of the place, rather exten- 
 sively carried on. Even ships of w'ar were built for 
 
22 
 
 THE HABITANTS. 
 
 the French navy ; but an order had arrived from 
 France prohibiting the further building of ships of war, 
 except those which were ah-eady on the stocks ; be- 
 cause they had found that the ships built of American 
 oak did not last so long as those of European oak. 
 The shipbuilders were compelled to bring their oak 
 timber from those parts of Canada that bordered upo^ 
 New England, because the oak near Quebec was found 
 very small and unfit for use. That which was used 
 was brought from the confines of New England, in 
 floats or rafts on the rivers near those ports, and near 
 the Lake St. Peter which fell into the great River St. 
 Lawrence. 
 
 THE HABITANTS, ., , 
 
 The common people in the country seemed to bo 
 very poor. They had the necessaries of life, but little 
 else. They were content with meats of dry bread and 
 water, bringing all otlier provisions, such as butter, 
 cheese, flesh, poultry, eggs, &c., to town in order to 
 get money for them, with which they bought clothes 
 and brandy for themselves, and dresses for their 
 women; but notwithstanding their poverty, they 
 always appeared cheerful and in high sinrits. Even 
 yet, the same may be said of the habitants ; but 
 there are many farmers in exceedingly comfortable 
 circumsionces, and nowhere in the country is squalid 
 poverty to be met with. They are saving in their 
 habits, but they are, generally speaking, well housed 
 and clad. Between Montreal and Quebec, the coun- 
 try people, on the whole, are in good circumstances, 
 and live certainly much better than the peasants of 
 most European pountries, retaining, nevertheless many 
 of the habits of their forefathers. Strangers visiting 
 
THE LADIES OF QUEBEC. 
 
 23 
 
 Lorette, the Falls of the Montmorenci, the Ghaudiere, 
 St. Foy, Ancienne Lorette, Gharlesbourg, or any of the 
 many beautifully situated villas in the neighbourhood 
 of Quebec, will easily ascertain this for themselves. 
 The exami)le set them by immigrants from the United 
 Kingdom, has not been altogether lost ui^on the habi- 
 tants and the Railroads, now jjenetrating into their 
 midst, will have the elfect of adding to their sk)ck of 
 knowledge, and of arousing them to activity and enter- 
 prise. He who would see yet some remains of French 
 Canada, must take an early opportunity, not of visiting 
 the modernized town of Quebec only, but the people 
 as well as the remarkable and highly interesting places 
 in its vicinity. • :, 
 
 • 1, THE FRENCH LADIES OF QUEBEC. 
 
 The Quebec ladies are equal to the French in good 
 breeding. At one time, they were in the habit of 
 dressing their heads too assiduously, and they are as 
 they were, rather fond of showy dresses and trinkets. 
 The Svvedish professor says of them : The Frenciimen, 
 who considered things in their true light complained 
 very much that a great part of the ladies in Canada 
 had got into the pernicious custom of taking too much 
 care of their dress, and squandering all their fortunes 
 and more upon it, instead of sjDaring something for 
 future times. « They are no less attentive to know the 
 newest fashions; and they laugh at each other, when 
 they are not dressed to each other's fancy.)) He adds, 
 "The ladies at Quebec are not very industrious. A 
 girl of eighteen is reckoned very poorly off, if she 
 cannot enumerate at least twenty love^v These 
 young ladies, especially those of a higher rank, get 
 up at seven and dress till nine, drinking their coflee 
 at the same time. When they are dressed, they 
 
24 
 
 WHAT NEXT. 
 
 if' 
 
 if 
 
 place themselves near a window that opens into the 
 street, take up some needle work, and sew a stitch 
 now and then ; but turn their eyes into the street most 
 of the time. When a your.g fellow comes in, whether 
 they are acquainted with him or not, they imme- 
 diately set aside their work, sit down by him, and 
 begin to chat, laugh, joke, and invent doilbles cntcn- 
 les : and this is i-eckoned very witty.)) The Profes- 
 sor is nearly as severe as the Honorable Amelia 
 Murray with her "Quebec MufTnis,)) Tlie Professor, 
 however, admits that the daughters of people of all 
 ranks, without exception, go to the market and carry 
 home what they have bought, rise soon, and go to 
 bed as late as any people in the town, l^e adds, and 
 bear this in mind, <(the girls of Montreal are very 
 much displeased that those of Quebec get husbands 
 sooner than they !» 
 
 Bidding adieu to the ladies, wo may be excused for 
 drawing attention to what others, since Kalm, have 
 said of Quebec, afterwards we shall describe the battle 
 of Quebec; the siege of Quebec by the American 
 General Montgomery ; the state of Quebec during the 
 Rebellion in connection with the almost miraculous 
 escape of Theller and Dodge from the Citadel; the 
 nature, character, and number of objects worthy of 
 being seen in Quebec as it is ; and the majestic sights, 
 about and below the city, far surpassing anything of 
 a similar nature elsewhere. 
 
 i^ -'::'/-l-'ff'^.,f'.^:<: ft'->5v<'^< ''^'^ 
 
 
 ;;■'}«■ f ,•';-'■■■ 
 
 ■:Cit>r' 
 
 ^* ;•;*''■ ^-t^-J^^'il^JXy^'i 
 
 •'V'.-'i-t 
 
 r^m' 
 
 
 i.M 
 
. - J „ .,u- 
 
 ■ '^.V^ 
 
 'i: > / ' :,; ' : 
 
 CIIAPXF.K II. 
 
 llemarkable periods in C)»nailian History— Increase of Population— View 
 from Durham Terrace — Consul General Andrews on Quebec — General 
 Wolfe and Admiral Saunders — British Fleet and Army opposite Que- 
 bec—The Bombaidment— The Assault at Montmorency— Cook, the 
 Navigator— Wolfe and the Poet Gray— The Landing— Assent to the 
 Plains of Abraham — Battle of Quebec— Death of Wolfe and Monu- 
 ment — Death of Montcalm — Surrender of the T' 'm — Sailing of the 
 Fleet — Exultation of the English " at home " an- in America. , „, 
 
 There have been five remarkable periods when the 
 affairs of Canada liave engaged the attention of the 
 BritiJi Parliament, viz: — 1774, after the Conquest; 
 1791, when the country was divided into two Provin- 
 ces ; 1828, when the people of Lower Canada presented 
 an Address, signed by 87,000 persons, complaining of 
 the partial distribution of Patronage, the illegal appli 
 cation of the public Money uiid of the Trade Act of 
 the Imperial Parliament; 1839, when rebellion had 
 secured Responsible Government; and in 1849, when 
 the British inhabitants, aroused to anger by Lord 
 Elgin's sanction of the Rebellion Losses Bill, burned 
 the Parliament buildings, and made a demand for a 
 peaceable separation from the Mother Country. 
 
 In 1774, Lower Canada contained only 80,000 
 inhabitants — 1,200 of whom only were British, Upper 
 Canada being a wilderness. In 1791, Lower Canada 
 contained 120,000 people, and Upper Canada 10,000; 
 in 1822, Lower Canada had 450,000 inhabitants, and 
 Upper Canada 130,000; in 1839, Lower Canada con- 
 tained 700,000 souls, and Upper Canada nearly 500,000, 
 
•2C 
 
 INCREASE OF POPULATION 
 
 while in IS")!, Lower Canada liad 800,2(H inlia- 
 
 -in all, 1,842,- 
 
 4 •2,000 
 
 bitants, and Upper Canada 952,004- 
 2G5, the City of Qnebec alone containing- 
 souls, or nearly as many persons as there were in the 
 whole country when it was cedcnl to great liritain. — 
 The increase has been chiefly in the newly settled 
 Townships of Lower Canada, and in that part oi" the 
 Province which remained a wilderness long after 
 Quebec had become celebrated in history. (»)nebcc has 
 grown and continues to grow wonderfully ; but its 
 growth has been impeded by the increase and foun- 
 dation of other towns. The external tri.de of the 
 Province is no longer confined to a few Rochelle 
 merchants, who had their warehouses and factors at 
 Quebec ; but is shared by other towns, having 
 extensive back countries, and which, obtaining their 
 imports direct, export in the same manner. Quebec 
 has not, however, as some imagine, been injured by 
 this progress. The only convenient seaport for tluj 
 largest sized ships, her increase of population will bo 
 more rapid in the future than it has been in the past 
 As the land becomes fully settled in the neighborhood 
 of Toronto, and such other places as have doubled 
 their previous population in ten years, the growth 
 of Quebec will certainly not be slower than that ot 
 towns having neither her advantages as a seai)ort, nor 
 her facilities for manufactures, a town yet :"etaining 
 and likely to retain much of her ancient picturesque- 
 ness, while gradually stretching herself from the 
 Church of Notre Dame de la Victoire, in the Lower 
 Town, to Sillery, on the one side, and from the 
 Heights of Abraham, across the River St. Charles, 
 to the Flats of Beauport, on the other. Quebec is 
 worthy of a visit from the intelligent stranger as niuch 
 
VIEW FI\OM DUIIIIAM TKRHACi:. 
 
 27 
 
 for what slio is, as for what sho has been. It is not 
 only that a view, the most magnificent on which man 
 (3ver gazed, is to be had from Dnrham Terrace — the 
 aya bringing together smiling fields, and the intcrmi- 
 nalde primeval forest, the impregnable fortress, and 
 the signs of peaceful industry — grouping, to use the 
 language of Warburton, mountain and plain, sinuous 
 river and broad tran([uil waters, stately sliip and tiny 
 boat, gentle hill and shady valley, bold headland and 
 rich fruitful fields, frowning battlement and cheerful 
 villa, glittering dome and rural spire, flowery garden 
 and sombre forest. — Nor that she is the city from 
 which Ghamplain designed to save souls, the salvation 
 of one of which was, in his opinion, of more value 
 than the conquest of an empire, and ujion which his 
 Most Christian Majesty designed to raise another 
 France to contend with, and keep the increasing 
 wealth and power of England in check ; but because 
 of her position as a place of business. No intelligent 
 stranger can view the number of ships contained in 
 the Port of Quebec, moored at the wharves, at anchor 
 in the stream, or taking in timber at the coves, during 
 the season of navigation, without being struck with the 
 importance of the situation — and in connection with 
 present and future railroads and ocean steamships, 
 without arriving at some idea of the ultimate great- 
 ness of that city, purchased by England with the blood 
 of Wolfe, for the extension of her Anglo-Saxon and 
 Celtic races, her laws and institutions, her manners 
 and her customs, modified by place and circum- 
 stances. '-^ ..;^.;.»^.^,«?r.#j:4'-''4'-v;Ti . .^''■•"'■.'';>K <^H'-'-'' !''.r'' 
 
 ■ Mr. Israel 1). Andrews, Consul of the United States 
 for Canada and New Brunswi(;k, thus speaks of the 
 Harbour of Quebec ;— «The Harbour of Quebec is not 
 
28 
 
 ANDREWS ON THE HARnOLR. 
 
 4h 
 
 unlike that of New York, the Island of Orleans serves 
 as a barrier from the north-east sea, and like Long 
 Island, allbrding two channels of appi oach. A portage 
 of about tlfteen miles on both sides of the river not 
 only affords the necessary wharves, but coves of suffi- 
 cient magnitude to float some tlurty or forty millions 
 of cubic feet of deals, besides staves, lathwood, cic. 
 A fresh water tide, rising eighteen feet at ' springs,' 
 offers no impediment to the shipment of timber the 
 great business of the port, the vessels so engaged 
 being anchored in the stream (which affords good 
 holding ground) where the cargoes are floated to Ihem 
 at every tide.)) 
 
 It was into this Harbour that Admiral Saunders, 
 on the '2Gtli June, 1751), with a largo fleet entered. 
 He had with him the army of a man, whom the able 
 American historian Bancroft thus describes : « His 
 nature, at once atlectionate and aspiring, mingled the 
 kindliest gentleness with an impetuous courage, which 
 was never exhausted or appalled. He loved letters, 
 and wrote well ; he had studied the science of war 
 profoundly , joining to experience a creative mind ; and 
 the vehement passion for immortal glory overcame 
 his motives to repose.)) That man was General 
 Wolfe. The army consisted of eight regiments, two 
 battalions of Royal Americans, three companies of 
 Rangers, Artillery, and a brigade of p]ngineers, in all 
 about eight thousand men : the fleet under Saunders 
 had two and twenty ships of the line, and as many 
 frigates and armed vessels ; on board of one of the 
 shii)s being Jervis, afterwards Earl St. Vincent, and 
 as master of another, James Cook, the navigator, who 
 was destined to explore and reveal the unknown 
 paths and tl|0iiS4ad ]sles of the Pacilic. Tl^e ^re^t- 
 
^vo^FE anl thi: ir.EET. 
 
 29 
 
 Pill had resolvofl lliat lh«; boiiiulJess north ol" the Aino- 
 ricau continent should be a conquest for his country 
 and without regard to seniority of rank, he selected 
 such officers for his purpose as seemed best qualified 
 to carry if out. Wolfe had done high service at 
 Minden and Louisbourg, and the Government of 
 Great Britain had the fuUesL confidence in his energy 
 and capacity, "^''.r^ fleet had scarce anchored in the 
 basin opposite tho -wn before Wolfe; took possession 
 of the Island of Orleans, and occupied Point Levy 
 with a detachment. His prospects were not however 
 encouraging. His able opponent, Montcalm, had cn- 
 irenched the western or rather soulhem bank of the 
 Montmorency, and had thrown up many redoubts be- 
 tween that river and the St. Charles. The stronghold 
 on the promontory of Gape Diamond bristled with 
 cannon ; the population was bitterly hostile ; evei-y 
 man that could bear arms was in actual service, none; 
 but old men, women, and children being left to labor 
 in the fields. Above the city steep banks rendered 
 landing almost impossible. Montcalm, to protcn-t the 
 guardian Citadel of New France, had of regular 
 troops no more than six wasted battalions, but the 
 Canadian militia gave him the superiority in numbers 
 and for nine miles or more above the city, as far as 
 Cape Rouge, every landing place was entrenched and 
 protected. The French, during a furious storm of 
 wind, sent down fire ships among the English ship- 
 ping, which being towed clear of the fleet did no 
 harm, and in the night of the 20lh of June, Wolfe 
 being master of the river, ordered Monckton, who 
 commanded the Brigade of Grenadiers, to Point Levy, 
 where he constructed batteries of mortars and cannon, 
 and bombarded the town,— batteries, the remains of 
 
30 
 
 Tin: nOMBAUDMENT. 
 
 which can now scarcely be traced in the rising and 
 prosporons village which, in a. few years, will be 
 looked upon as a suburb of Quebec. By llio dis- 
 charge of red hot balls and shells, fifty houses were 
 set on fire in a night, and soon the lowei* town was 
 demolished, and the upper seriously injured. The 
 citadel was however beyond their reacn, and every 
 avenue from the river to the cliff was too strongly en- 
 trenched for an assault. No real progress had as yet 
 been made, and Wolfe naturally very sensitive, fret- 
 ted about the matter. He wj>g eager for a battle; 
 ejiger for anything that would relieve him from what, 
 at a distance, might be looked upon as inactivity. 
 He reconnoitered tlie Montmorency, saw that the 
 eastern bank was higher than liiat opposite occupied 
 by Montcalm, landed and encamped, but there was 
 no way of crossing a stream which though not wide 
 boiled impetuously over rocks, whirled in eddies, or 
 precipitated itself down rapids. Three miles higher 
 up tnere was a ford, bnt the bank opposite was steep, 
 thickly wooded, and it had been carefully intrenched. 
 He embarked his men again, and next with Admiral 
 Saunders examined the shore above the town. Sailing 
 along the well defended bank, from the Montmorency 
 to the St. Charles, he passed the deep and spacious 
 harbour, which at four hundred miles from the sea 
 can shelter a hundred ships of the line, and marked 
 the outline of the precipitous cliffs of Gape Diamond. 
 Everywhere he beheld a natural fastness, vigilantly 
 defended, entrenchments, cannoiu boats, and floating 
 ■ batteries guarding every access.* There appeared 
 to be no chance of effecting a landing anywhere. 
 
 * Bancroll. 
 
ASSAULT AT MONTMOUli.NCX 
 
 31 
 
 MeanlMiie, at mid-night, oa the twenty-eighth of July, 
 the French sent down another raft of fire ships, 
 which did no more harm than those sent down 
 a month before. Wolfe returned to Montmorencv, 
 resolved on an engagement there, at whatever risk. 
 Immediately below the Falls of that river, which tlow 
 over a perpendicular rock, two hundred and fifty feet 
 high, amidst clouds of spray and rainbow glories, 
 there is a ford at low water ii(\ar the junction of the 
 Montmorency with the St. Lawrence, and it w'as 
 planned that two brigades should pass the ford at the 
 proper time of the tide, while Monckton's regiments 
 should cross the St. Lawrence from Point Levy at 
 slack tide. The signal was made, the boats crossed 
 from Point Levy, and Wolfe selected a landing place ; 
 but some of the boats from Point Levy grounded 
 upon a ledge of rocks that runs out into the river, 
 and while they were being got off the enemy kept up 
 an incessant fire of shot and shells. Nevertheless the 
 attack was l)egun. Thirteen companies of Grenadiers, 
 and two hundred of the second battalion of tlie Royal 
 Americans, getting first ashore, ran hastily tow'ards 
 the entrenchments, and were repulsed in such disorder " 
 that they could not again form into line, though 
 Monckton's regiments had arrived and had formed 
 with the coolness of invincible valor. A storm was 
 approaching, night was near, and the tide was rapidly 
 vising when Wolfe considered it expedient to retreat, 
 after four hundred lives had been lost. This hap- 
 pened on the last day of July. Soon after Brigadier 
 Murray was sent with twelve hiwidred men .'ibove the 
 town to destroy the French ships and open a comniu- 
 nicatiou with General Amherst who, at the head of a 
 large force, was expected to invade Canada l)y way of 
 
32 
 
 ILLNESS OF WOLrii, 
 
 
 #1 
 
 ■'irl 
 
 Lake Champlaiii and form a junction with Wolfe. 
 Murray only was able to effect a landing at Descham- 
 bault, a village situated half way between Quebec and 
 Three Rivers, and there learned that Niagara had sur- 
 rendered, and that the French had abandonned, re- 
 treating before Amherst, Ticonderoga and Grown 
 Point; i)UL although only opposed by three thousand 
 men, Amherst loitered at Grown Point, and not even 
 a messenger from him arrived. It was thus when the 
 feeble frame of Wolfe sank under the energy of his 
 restless spirit. Yet disabled by fever, he laid before 
 Brigadiers three several and equally desperate 
 methods of attacking Montcalm at Beauport ; but they 
 were all opposed as promising little chances of success; 
 and Wolfe wrote to Pitt, the Prime Minister of Eng- 
 land, in a spirit of such despondency, that England 
 read the dispatch with dismay, and feared to hear 
 further tidings. " My constitution," wrote the General 
 to a friend, ••' is entirely ruined, without the consola- 
 tion of having done any considerable service to the 
 state, and without any prosf ect of it." But the hope- 
 lessnr ^ of Wolfe's position did not reduce him to in 
 activ Securing the posts in the Isle of Orleans and 
 
 oppos - r lebec, he marched with the army on the 
 lifth and » \th of September from Point Levy, to which 
 place he had transferred all the troops from Montmo- 
 rency, and embarked them in transports that had pas- 
 sed the town for the purpose. Admiral Holmes with 
 some ships ascended the river to amuse Bougainville, 
 whom Montcalm had sent up the north shore to watch 
 the movements of *the British armj and prevent a 
 landing. DeLevy was sent to Montreal to i)rotect it? 
 and Nouvelle France began to feel that, it being late in 
 the autumn, the worst was over, as the invading fleet 
 
COOK, THE NAVIGATOR. — THE POET GRAY. 
 
 33 
 
 must soon withdraw from the river. But Wolfe, 
 intently recoanoitering, discovered the cove, which 
 now bears his name, where the bending promontories 
 almost form a basin with a very narrow margin, 
 over which the hill rises precipitously, and saw a 
 path that wound up the steep so narrow that two 
 men could hardly march in it abreast. There were 
 only a few tents on the summit, and he knew, by 
 counting their number, that the post which guarded 
 the path could not exceed a hundred men. A 
 landing at this point was instantly resolved upon. 
 Cook, the great Navigator, was sent to sound the 
 water off Beauport, and plant buoys as if an attack 
 were intended in that quarter, while the troops were 
 kept afloat far above the town. It was a bright even- 
 ing in autumn, that of the 12th of.September, when the 
 heroic Wolfe visited his stations to make his final 
 inspection, and utter his last words of encouragement. 
 As he passed from ship to ship, he spoke to those in 
 the boat with him, of tne Poet Gray, and the Elegy 
 in a country Church Yard. « I, » said he, « would pre- 
 fer being the author of that poem to the glory of 
 beating the French to-morrow ; » and while the oars 
 struck, as it rippled in the silence of the night air, un- 
 der the flowing tide, he repeated : — <, j^, ^,,;js* ■: ■; 
 'ii; " The boast of heraldry, the pomp of power, ; . :< h 
 . i ' And all that beauty, all that wealth e'er gave, ,, „ ' j 
 Await alike the inevitable hour ; u,;* . ,i K 
 
 Tlie paths of glory lead but to the grave." 
 On the thirteenth of September, * one hour after 
 
 * Bancroft, in a foot note, acknowledges that he derived his information 
 of this incident from the late Dr. John Charlton Fisher, of Quebec, to 
 whom the Picture of Qnel)ec, published by Mr. Hawkins, in 1834, is in- 
 del)«ed for much of its liistorical value. , 
 
 The late Andrew Stuart, Esquire, contributed very much of historical 
 value to Hawkins' Picture of Quelwc 
 
34 
 
 THE LAl^DING. — THE PLAINS OF ABllAHAM. 
 
 m 
 
 h\ 
 
 midnight, Wolfe with Monckton and Murray, and 
 about iialf the forces, set off in boats, and without sail 
 or oars, ghded down the river with the tide, followed 
 by the ships, having previously issued a « General 
 Order » from on board Her Majesty's ship Sutherland^ 
 giving an idea of his plan of attack, and of his arran- 
 gements to secure the landing place after a landing 
 had been effected. In three quarters of an hour the 
 ships followed, and though the night had become dark, 
 aided by the rapid ebb tide, they reached the cove, just 
 in time to cover the landing. The troops leaped on 
 shore. The light infantry, who found themselves borne 
 by the current a little below the intrenched path, clam- 
 bered up the steep hill, staying themselves by the roots 
 and boughs of the maple and spruce and ash trees that 
 covered the precipitous declivity, and after a little 
 firing dispersed the gp.ard at the top, commanded by 
 Captain DeVergor, when the rest ascended, without 
 molestation, the patiiway already alluded to. Only 
 one light six-pounder gun was brought up the preci- 
 pice by some English sailors ; a battery of other guns 
 on the left was abandoned to Colonel Howe. When 
 Townsend's division disembarked, the English had 
 already gained one of the roads to Quebec, and 
 advancing in front of the forest, Wolfe stood at 
 Jay-break, with his invincible battalions, on the 
 Plains of Abraham, the battle field of empire.* 
 Montcalm was amazed bevond measure, when the 
 news first reached him. He imagined that only a 
 detachment had landed, done some mischief, and 
 retreated. Bougainville's upward movement, while 
 the English troops were going downwards, had not 
 
 * Bnncroil, pnge 33.1, 
 
 Ki)' 
 
BATTLE OF QUEBEC. 
 
 35 
 
 occurred to him. He was unwilling to believe in the 
 possibility of a landing having been effected, for 
 as far as a pitched battle was concerned, it was his 
 weak side. He might have taken shelter behind the 
 walls of Quebec, and it might have been found impos- 
 sible even for Wolfe to have carried the works. It is, 
 besides, doubtful ihat any benefit would have accrued 
 to the English from such a landing so late in the year 
 had Montcalm done nothing but abandon his intrench^ 
 ments on the Montmoioncy and St. Charles, and have 
 concentrated his whole strength in Quebec ; but Mont- 
 calm did not do so. He at once prepared to aitack 
 Wolfe, and hope to be enabled to drive him into the 
 river again before mid-day. It was with this latter view 
 that he hastily crossed the valley of St. Charles, and 
 before ten in the forenoon, the two armies, one being 
 composed of less than five thousand men stood opposite 
 each other. The English were all regulars ; the French 
 partly regulars, partly colonial corps, partly burghers 
 of Quebec, and partly Indians. For nearly an hour the 
 two armies cannonaded each other. Montcalm having 
 the advantage of position, his army being posted in a 
 crescent shape from what is now the St. Charles road, 
 along the line of the present Martello towers. The 
 French had three field pieces and the English only 
 one. Montcalm sent messages for De Vaudreuil and 
 Bougainville to come up ; bufwithout waiting for their 
 arrival, at last led the French army impetuously to 
 the attack. The French bioken by their precipitation, 
 and by the unevenness of the ground, fired by pla. 
 toons, irregularly, while the English, especially the 
 forty-third and forty-seventh, where Monckton stood, 
 received the shock with calmness : and after having, 
 at Wolfe's command, reserved their fire till the enemy 
 
36 
 
 DEATH OF WOLFE, 
 
 I 
 
 was within forty yards, their lii)o began a regular, 
 rapid, and exact discharge of musketry. Montcalm 
 rushed from point to point, cheering by his example 
 and enco'siraging by his. presence his men, many of 
 whom, unaccustomed to military discipline, could 
 with diflicuity be kept together. He was wounded, 
 and his second in command, De Sennezergues, an 
 associate in glory at Ticonderoga, had been killed. 
 The Canadians at '?ngth, under a hot fire in the open 
 field, began to waver, which Wolfe perceiving, placed 
 himself at the head of the twenty-eighth, and the 
 Louisbourg grenadiers, gave the word to charge, and 
 the French fled before the British bayonet in wild dis' 
 order. Colonel Guy Carleton was injured ; Wolfe's 
 Adjutant General Barre, had lost an eye ; Wolfe him- 
 self had been wounded in the wrist, and as he pushed 
 forward with tht grenadiers, received a second wound, 
 and just as the fortune of the day was decided, a third 
 ball struck him mortally in the breast, Monckton had 
 been shot through the lungs. , , . ^ 
 
 It was while in the agonies of death that Wolfe 
 heard the cry of « they flee,)) and on being told that it 
 was the French who fled, exclaimed, «now God be 
 praised, I die happy.)) ., ,; ^, . . . 
 
 These were the last words of one concerning whom 
 it is our boast, that « Chatham's language was his 
 mother tongue.)) At the early age of thirty-two Wolfe 
 lay dead upon the battle field of the Plains of Abra- 
 ham, where a Monument, containing the simple in- 
 scription. 
 
 HERli!, DIED .. j 
 
 W^OLFE, 
 
 VICTORIOUS. 
 
 ~f¥y 
 
 a monument twice erected — first by Lord Ayhner 
 
 ill 
 
DKATH OF MONTCALM. 
 
 3' 
 
 when Governor in Chief, in 1835, which was carriod 
 away by visitors, piecemeal; and secondly a more 
 imposing anrl very chaste, Anted colnmn, with the 
 same inscription, erected at the suggestion of Sir 
 Benjamin D'Urban, Commander of the Forces in 1849, 
 by ihe Officers of the army in Canada, — may now be 
 seen, and the battle field traced ont as distinctly as a 
 hundred years ago. ,.f?^\v 
 
 Wolfe being dead, and Monckton wounded, the 
 command of the English army devolved upon Towns- 
 hend, brave but not sagacious, and who when De 
 Bougainville appeared in view, declined a contest with 
 a fresh enemy. Montcahn was no more to turn such 
 an incident to account. In attempting to rally a body 
 of fugitive Canadians, in a copse near St. John's Gate, 
 he was mortally wounded. Assured by his surgeon 
 that he would survive for twelve hours, he called a 
 Council of War, and showed that within that time, all 
 the French troops near at hand might be concentrated, 
 and the attack renewed before the English were in- 
 trenched; and when De Ramsay who commanded 
 the garrison, asked his advice about defending the 
 city, he simply replied, «to your keeping I commend 
 « the honour of France. As for me, I must pass the 
 « night with God, and prepare myself for death.)* The 
 day of battle had scarcely passed, when Do Vaudreuil, 
 who had no capacity for war, wrote to De Ramsay, at 
 Quebec, not to wait for an assault, but, as soon as his 
 provisions were exhausted, to hoist the white flag of 
 surrender. 
 
 On the 17th of September, De Ramsay capitulated. 
 Montcalm died on the i4th of September- and was 
 buried within the precincts of the Ursuline Convent. 
 In 1335, His Excellency, General Lord Aylmer, Gov- 
 c3 
 
38 
 
 MONUMENT TO WOLFE AND MONTllALM. 
 
 - Sit 
 
 ernor-in-Gliief of Canada, caused a marble slab, having 
 the following inscription : 
 
 HONNEUR i , 
 
 :' MONTCALM! - .i'^^'^-'- -. 
 Lb destin en lui derobant • t » 
 
 La ViCTOiRB, i '.' ' 
 
 . ' L' A RECOMPENSE PAR 
 
 •H ' ' • '< Une Mort Glorieuse ! 
 
 ■-' i 
 
 
 iic'M yjiTi .i?ii^-' 
 
 L ^'. 
 
 J' I.' I' 
 
 to be placed in the Ursuline Chapel, to the memory of 
 this brave but unfortunate soldier, whose skull, by 
 the way, was dug up ten or twelve years ago, and 
 placed in a glass case, where the curious in relics may 
 see it by applying to the Chaplain of the convent. 
 
 ' Lord Dalhousie, in 1827, raised an Obelisk in the 
 Governor's Garden, which is very conspicuously sit- 
 uated under the Citadel, and not far from the site of the 
 residence of the Governors General of New France, 
 and of their successors, the English Governors-in- 
 Chief of Canada, to both the victor and the vanquished. 
 
 It bears this inscription : • ■' 
 
 >:^ . '■■: t; 
 
 Mortem, virtus, communem. 
 
 Famam. Historia. ■ 
 
 monumentum. posteritas. 
 Dedit. 
 
 and the reader who understands the Latin tongue is 
 further informed by the following additional inscrip- 
 tion, that this monument in honor of these illustrious 
 men — Wolfe and Montcalm — -was erected by George 
 Earl of Dalhousie, Captain General of British North 
 
 "I 
 
EXULTATION. 
 
 39 
 
 America, on the 15th November, 1827, during the 
 Reign of George IV : — 
 
 HUJUSCR 
 IIONUMENTI IN VIUORUM ILLUSTRIUM, 
 
 WOLFE ET MONTCALM, 
 fundamentum, p, c. 
 Georoius Comes de Dalhousie ; . ' 
 
 , In SePTENTRIONALIS AMERICiB PARTlBUa 
 SUMMAM ReRUM ADMINISTRANS ; 
 OrUS PER MU1>T0S ANNOS PRAETERMISSUM, 
 ' Quid DUCI EOREGIO CONVENTIUS? 
 
 AUCTORITATE PROMOVENS, EXEMPLO STIMULANS » 
 
 '^ MUNIFICENTIA FOVENS . , > 
 
 ,,,,,, , - ■ Die Novembris XV. i .' .>-^ ■. 
 
 . . A. D. MDCCCXXVIL, ■■-■ - - . 
 
 Georoio IV. Britanniarum Eege. 
 
 The remains of Wolfe were conveyed to England in 
 the Royal William, an 84 gun ship; and were buried 
 there in a vault, in the parish Church of Greenwich, 
 where his mother, Henrietta, who did not die until 
 1765, lies, and also the remains of his father, the Hon- 
 orable Lieutenant-General Edward Wolfe, who, at the 
 age of 74, had died only in the previous spring March, 
 1759. 
 
 When Quebec fell, " America rang with exultation ; 
 the hills glared with bonfires ; legislatures, the puljjit, 
 the press echoed the general joy ; provinces and fami- 
 lies gave thanks to God. England too, which had 
 shared the despondency of Wolfe, triumphed at his 
 victory, and wept for his death. Joy, grief, curiosity, 
 amazement, were on every countenance."* 
 
 ♦ Bancroft's History of ihe United Slates. 
 
illAPTKR III. 
 
 The ('apitulation — Tho Cession to Great Britnin — The Quebec Act — The 
 American Kevoiulion-^Monljiomery's Invasion — General Arnold — 
 Arnold's Churauler — The expedition through the wilderness — Alatieu- 
 injf journey — The Flag-slafl' Mountain — Sickness of the troops — 
 Enc-unipment oil Lake Megantic — -Descent of the Chaudiere — Wash- 
 ington's Manilesto — Arrival at Point Levi— Cro^sing of the river — 
 Arnold on the plains of Abraham — Arrival ol Montgomery — The Siepe 
 — British Forces in Quebec — The assault skirmish at Pris-de- Ville — 
 Fall of Montgomery — Arnold's attack — Sortie of the Garrison — Loss 
 of the Americans— A disinterment — Remarks on the Invasion — 1812. 
 
 Cii 
 
 By the capitulation, which suffered the Garrison of 
 Quehec to march out with honors of war, the inhabi- 
 tants of the country were permitted the free exercise of 
 their reUgion ; and afterwards in 1 774, the Roman 
 Catholic Church establishment was recognized ; and 
 disputes concerning landed and real property were to 
 be settled by the Coulumc. de Paris. In criminal cases 
 only was the Law of England to apply. 
 
 Admiral Saunders, with all the fleet, except two 
 ships, sailed for England, on the 18th of October, 
 Quebec being left to the care of General Murray and 
 about 3,000 men. After the fleet had sailed, several 
 attempts were made upon the British outposts at Point 
 Levy, Cape Rouge and St. Foy, unsuccessfully. Win- 
 ter came and the suflerings of the conquered were 
 dreadful. The Eraser Highlanders wore their kilts 
 notwithstanding the extreme cold, and provisions were 
 so scarce and dear that many of the inhabitants died of 
 starvation. The Marquis de Vaudreuil, the Governor 
 
THE CESSION TO GREAT UniTAIN. 
 
 il 
 
 General of His Most Christian Majesty, busied himself 
 at Montreal with preparations for the recovery of 
 Quebec in the Spring. In April ho sent the Genqj-al 
 De Levi, with an army of 10,000 men to etVect that 
 object. Di; Levi arrived within three miles of Quebec 
 on the 28th, and defeated General Murray's force of 
 2,200 men imprudently sent to meet him. The city 
 was again besie^:ed, but this time by the Fn^nch. 
 Indeed it was only on the reappearance of the British 
 ships, about the middle of May, that the siege was 
 raised, and De Levi retreated to Jacqnes Gartier. 
 
 Montcalm, who was not only a general but a states- 
 man, is said to have expressed himself to the effect, 
 that the conquest of Canada by England would endan- 
 ger her retention of the New England Colonies, and 
 nltimately prove injnrions to her interests on this con- 
 tinent. Canada, not subject to France, would be no 
 source of uneasiness or annoyance to the English 
 Colonists, who already were becoming politically im- 
 portant, and somewhat impatient of restraint. How 
 far such an opinion was justifiable, is to be gathered 
 from the condition of Canada and the Colonies of 
 Great Britain in America, at this hour. 
 
 Canada was, in 1763, ceded by His Most Christian 
 Majesty, the King of France, to his Britannic Majesty 
 King George the Second. Emigration from the United 
 Kingdom to Canada was encouraged — not to Canada 
 only but to Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. By 
 the treaty of 17C3, signed at Paris, Nova Scotia, 
 Canada, the Island of Cape Breton, and all the other 
 Islands in the Gulf and River St. Lawrence, were 
 ceded to the British Crown.* ) ■ x f > 
 
 * Roger's Canada, page 66, 
 
42 
 
 THK QUEBEC ACT. 
 
 Four districts and separate Provincfs were ceded : — 
 Quebec, East Florida, West Florida, and Grenada. 
 The new Government of Quebec as "(bounded on the 
 "Labrador coast by tie River St. John, and from 
 « thence, by a line drawn from the head of that river, 
 « through the Lake Nipissing ; from whence the said 
 " hno, crossing the River St. Lawrence and Lake 
 (( Ghamplain, in forty five degrees of north latitude, 
 « passes along the highlands which divide the rivers 
 « that empty themselves into the said River St. Law- 
 « rence, from those that fall into the sea, and also 
 « along the north coast of the Baie des Chaleurs, and 
 « Ihe coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence to Gape Rosiers ; 
 « and from thence, crossing the mouth of the River St. 
 « Lawrence, by the West end of the Island of Anticosti, 
 « terminates at the aforesaid River St. John." 
 
 For some years after the conquest, the form of Gov- 
 ernment was purely military. It was, indeed, only in 
 1774, that two acts were passed by the British Govern- 
 ment, one with the view of providing a Revenue for 
 the Civil Government of the Province of Quebec, as 
 the whole of Canada was then termed, the other 
 called « The Quebec Act," defining the boundaries of 
 the Province, setting aside all the provisions of the 
 Royal Proclamation of 1763, and appointing a gov- 
 erning Council of not more than twenty-three, nor less 
 than seventeen persons. And whatever may have 
 been the motive for this almost unlooked for liberality 
 on the part of the mothl^r country, it is not a little 
 singular that only a year later, England's great diffi- 
 culty with her old Colonies occurred. 
 
 « The Quebec Act," was in itself a cause of oftence 
 to them. On the 21st of October, 1774, the following 
 language was made use of by the Congress, in refer- 
 
TIIK AMKHICAN llliVOl.lJTIUN. 
 
 43 
 
 ence to that Act, in an Address to tho people of Great 
 Britain :— « Nor can we snppress our astonishment, 
 « that a British Parliament should ever consent to 
 «( establish in that coimtry, a religion that has deluged 
 « your Island in blood, and dispersed impiety, bigotry, 
 « persecution, murder, and rebellion through every 
 « part of the world. And that we think the Legislature 
 « of Great Britain is not authorized by the Gonstitu- 
 « tion to establish a religion fraught with sanguinary 
 « and impious tenets." The attack was of a twofold 
 nature. Both the sword and the pen were brought 
 into requisition. It was supposed by the discontented 
 old colonists, that the boundary of the lakes and rivers 
 which emptied themselves into the Gulf of St. Law- 
 rence, and had formed the natural barrier between two 
 nations, mitil the peace of Paris of 1763, when Canada 
 passed from the dominion of France to that of the 
 British Crown, formed no boundary to British rule, 
 as the sway of the Anglo Saxon race was now fully 
 established over the whole of the northern part of the 
 continent ; and it was further sujiposed, that it was, 
 therefore, proper to detract, if possible, from the power 
 of Great Britain, to harm the revolutionary colonists on 
 the great watery highway of the lakes and rivers, or 
 to prevent such a united force of Colonial and Provin- 
 vial inhabitants as might counterbalance, in a great 
 measure, the pertinacious loyalists who were to dis- 
 countenance American appeals for justice, — the war- 
 lare, before the declaration of American Independence, 
 being "neither against the throne nor the laws of 
 (( England, but against a reckless and oppressive 
 « ministry.))* Efforts were, for such reasons, made to 
 
 * See ll;e Journal of Charles Carroll, of Caroiton, published by the 
 Moryland Historical Society, Baltimore— page 9. 
 
44 
 
 NfONTCOMERY S INVASION.— GKNKRAl- AHNOI-D. 
 
 lilti 
 
 obtain posspssion of the keys of the Lakes, of the St. 
 Lawrence at Quebec and Montreal. The old colonists 
 wore to make a war of political propagandism on 
 Canada, and they resolved upon the employment of 
 both force and persuasion. Generals Montgomery, 
 Arnold, and Allen, invaded Canada, and to a certain 
 point, with complete success. After the success of the 
 two latter ofTicers at Ticonderoga and Grown Point, 
 Arnold pushed on towards Quebec, through the wilder- 
 ness, and had ascended the heights of Abraham before 
 Montgomery, who had proceeded towards Quebec from 
 Montreal, had arrived. Under these circumstances, 
 Arnold retired about twenty miles above Quebec, to 
 wait for Montgomery. Meanwhile the Governor of 
 Canada, Sir Guy Carleton, had escaped through Mont- 
 gomery's army, in the dead of night, in an open boat, 
 rowed with muffled oars, guided by Captain Bouchette 
 of the Royal Navy, and was now safely lodged in the 
 chief Fortress of America.* , ; r .: ^ ,v^ 
 
 The manner in which the afterwards celebrated or 
 rather notorious Arnold accomplished his perilous 
 march through the wilderness, up the Kennebec and 
 Dead River, through Lake Megantic and down the 
 Chaudiere to Quebec, is highly interesting. The route 
 was now altogether a new one, and the time may 
 come wiien a near water communication for steamers 
 instead of only for canoes and bateaux from Quebec 
 to the Atlantic, may be opened up, the more especially 
 as remunerative gold and copper mines have within 
 the last ten years, been discovered in the neighbour- 
 hood of where the Chaudiere issues from Lake Megan- 
 tic. In 1753, Governor Shirley, of Massachusetts, had 
 
 1^ 
 
 * Koger's Canada. 
 
GENRRAL AnNOLD. 
 
 45 
 
 acquired intolligenco tliat the French had greatly 
 increased their settlements upon each side of the 
 River Ohaudiere, which falls into the St. Lawrence a 
 very few miles ahovc Quebec, and that they were 
 proceeding to make settlements at about thirty miles 
 distance, upon the carrying place that separates tJie 
 liead of the Chaudierc from the Kennebec, this latter 
 mentioned river affording the French a shorter pas. 
 sage by Quebec for making descents upon the Pro- 
 vinces of Massachusetts Bay, and New Hampshire, 
 than any other route; and from which, during the 
 war between them and New England in 1723 and 1724, 
 the Indians made all their incursions and ravages upon 
 the eastern part of Massachusetts Bay. Indeed, in 
 the follovving war, having been told that the Arres- 
 igunnticook, Norridgwalk, and Penobscot Indians 
 wore upon the point of breaking out into hostilities 
 against the English, the same Governor informed the 
 Assembly of Massachusetts, of these several matters, 
 and recommended the construction of a Fort near the 
 head of the Kennebec, and the settlement by English 
 colonists of its neighbourliood to prevent the French 
 from taking possession, and two Forts were conse- 
 quently built, one called Fort Weston, about thirty- 
 seven miles from the mouth of the Kennebec ; and the 
 other. Fort Halifax, about hfty-four. ■ ^ ■■' ' ^ - ^ 
 
 Indeed Mr. Jan^d Sparks, the talented biograi)her of 
 Benedict Arnold, very candidly admits that the Com- 
 mander of the American expedition was not ignorant 
 of the obstacles with which he had to contend, as 
 colonel Montressor, an oihcer in the British a 
 
 'J 7 
 
 passed over the game route, fifteen yeai's before, and 
 written a journal of his tour, an imperfect copy of 
 whicli had fallen into the hand^ of Arnold. Montressor 
 
19 
 
 ARNOLD S CHAKACTEH. 
 
 came from Quebec, ascending the Rivers Chandiere 
 and des Loups, crossing the highlands near the head 
 waters of the Penobscot, pursuing his way through 
 Moose-head Lake, and entering the Kennebec by its 
 eastern branch. He returned up the western branch, 
 or Dead River, and through Lake Megan tic, and this 
 latter was the route taken by Arnold. 
 
 The expedition through the eastern 'vilderness to 
 Quebec, was devised by General George Wishington 
 in August, 1775, he being then in command of the 
 Continental army at Cambridge. He knew of none 
 better fitted for the command of such an expedition 
 than the bold and reckless, energetic, and ready-plan- 
 ning Colonel Arnold, a man of an imperious tempera- 
 ment, dashing, brave, and talented, envied by his 
 equals in rank, lauded by those who knew Ins worth, 
 petted by Washington, as just as he was able, victim- 
 ized by spite, selfish and spendthrift by nature, revenge- 
 ful from the consciousness of neglect, and ultimately, 
 a deserter and traitor almost from necessity, certainly 
 from wounded pride — an able officer, self h, yet im- 
 pulsively generous, a clever man without the ability 
 to keep a friend. 
 
 About eleven hundred men, being ten companies of 
 musketmen from New England, and three companies 
 riflemen from Virginia and Pennsylvania, were placed 
 by the Continental Congress under the command of 
 Arnold. The Field Officers under him were Lieut- 
 Colonel Christopher Green, afterwards the hero of the 
 Red Bank, Lieutenant-Colonel Roger Enos, and Majors 
 Bigelow and Meigs. At the head of the riflemen was 
 Captain Daniel Morgan, renowned in the subsequent 
 annals of the war. 
 
 These troops marched from Cambridge to Newbury 
 
THE WILDERNESS. 
 
 47 
 
 Port, where they embarked on board of eleven trans- 
 ports, on the 18th of September, saiUng the next day 
 for the mouth of the Kennebec. Two davs after leav- 
 ing Newbury Port all the transports had entered the 
 Kennebec, and sailed up the river to Gardiner Town, 
 or rather at Pittstown, situated on the opposite bank, 
 where a company of carpenters had several days before 
 been despatched from Cambridge to construct two 
 hundred bateaux. These being in readiness, the troops 
 and provisions were transferred to them from the 
 shipping, and soon they all rendezvoused at Fort 
 Western. «Here, says Sparks, the hard struggles, 
 « sufferings, and dangers were to begin. Eleven hun- 
 « dred men with arms, ammunition, and all the 
 « apparatus of war, burdened with the provisions for 
 ({ their sustenance, and clothing to protect them from 
 « the inclemency of the weather, were to pass through 
 « a region uninhabited, wild, and desolate, forcing 
 « their bateaux against a swift current, and carrying 
 « them and their contents on their shoulders around 
 « rapids and cataracts, over craggy precipices^ and 
 « through morasses, till they should reach the French 
 « settlements on the Canada frontiers, a distance of 
 « more than two hundred miles.» A party of six or 
 seven men were at this place sent forward in two birch 
 canoes, under the command of Lieutenant Steele, with 
 orders to go as far as Lake Megantic, or Chaudiere 
 Pond, as it was sometimes called, and procure such 
 intelligence as they could from the Indians; and 
 another party, under Lieutenant Church, who was 
 accompanied by a surveyor, was sent on to take the 
 exact courses and distances of the Dead River. Then 
 the army set off' in four divisions, each setting off a 
 day before the other, and thus allowing sufficient 
 
ORDER OF MARCH. 
 
 III 
 
 space between them to prevent any interference in 
 passing up the rapids and around the falls. Morgan 
 went ahead with the riflemen ; then came Greene and 
 Bigelow with the three companies of musketeers ; these 
 were followed by Meigs with four others ; and last of 
 all was Enos, who brought up the rear, with the three 
 remaining companies. Arnold followed in a birch 
 canoe, and pushing forward, passed the whole line at 
 different points, overtaking Morgan's advanced party 
 on the third day at Norridgewock Falls, immediately 
 belo^ which, on the eastern bank of the river, was a 
 wide and beautiful plain, once tlie site of an Indian 
 village, belonging to a tribe callec^ Norridgewalk, and 
 on which were the ruins of a catholic church, where 
 an already extinct race of savages had bowed the knee 
 to the great creator and protector of the human race 
 At the Falls all the bateaux were taken and transported 
 a mile and a quarter by land, a rather difhcult task 
 as the banks on each side were uneven and rocky. 
 Before they were launched again, it was discovered 
 that the boats, having been hastily and therefore im- 
 perfectly made, had become leaky, and much of the 
 provisions, particularly the bread, thereby damaged ; 
 but the leakage may have been caused by the frequent 
 accidents that had occurred in navigating them. The 
 carpenters were set to work to repair damages, which 
 caused a detention of seven days. As soon as the last 
 bateau was launched again, Arnold betook himself to 
 his birch canoe with his Indian guide, quickly shot 
 ahead of the rear division, passed the portage a;t the 
 Carratunc Falls, and in two days arrived at the great 
 carrying place, twelve miles below the junction of the 
 Dead River with the eastern branch of the Kennebec, 
 where he found the two first divisions of the arm v. 
 
 b( 
 
 ii 
 
A Fatiguing journey. 
 
 49 
 
 Up to this time, althongli tlie fatigue was very great, 
 only one man had died ; hut desertion was frequent, 
 and there was considerable sickness. The whole num- 
 ber of effective men did not now exceed nine hundred 
 and fifty. The men oftentimes hud to wade and force 
 the bateaux up the rapid current, so much so that Ar- 
 nold wrote to Washington that his men might have 
 been taken for amphibious, "aS they were great part 
 (( of the time under water. » With only twenty-five 
 days provisions for the whole detachment, he expected 
 to reach the Ghaudiere in } or 10 days ; but was dis- 
 appointed. He had 15 miles to travel, in passing over 
 the great Carrying Place, and with incredible toil the 
 bateaux, provisions, and baggage, which had to be car- 
 ried over the shoulders of the men, were taken from 
 the waters of the Kennebec and transported along 
 an ascending, rugged, and precipitous path for more 
 than three miles to the first of three ponds, which inter- 
 vened, where they were again put afloat ; and thus it was 
 by alternate water and land carriage through lakes, 
 creeks, morasses, and craggy ravines, they reached the 
 Dead River. The men however feasted on delicious sal- 
 mon trout, which the ponds alTord in prodigious quan- 
 tities. For many miles, the Dead River, presented a 
 smooth surface and gentle current, interrupted here 
 and there by falls of short descent, at w liich were carry- 
 ing places. As the bateaux moved along the stream a 
 bold and lofty mountain appeared in the distance, whose 
 summit was whitened with snow. The river, as they 
 approached the mountain, was discovered to pursue a 
 very meandering course, near its base, and the progress 
 was consequently slow. In the vicinity of this moun- 
 tain Arnold encamped for three days and raised the 
 American flag over his tent. There is now a hamlet 
 
m 
 
 SIflKNESS OF THE TflOOrS. 
 
 ic 
 
 on its top called the Flagstaff. Major Bigelow, whose 
 name the mountain bears, is asserted to have ascended 
 to its summit with the hope of discovering the hills 
 of Canada, and the spires of Quebec. However, a party 
 of ninety men was sent back to the rear from his 
 camp for provisions, which were beginning to get 
 scarce, and it had a somewhat awkward effect. Morgan 
 and his rifles were in front, and Arnold followed 
 with the second division. For three days it rained 
 incessantly, every man and all the baggage being 
 drenched with water, and one night while they were 
 endeavouring to take a little repose on the bank, the 
 men were suddenly aroused by the freshet which came 
 rushing upon them in a torrent, and hardly allowed 
 them time to escape before the ground, on which 
 they had lain down, was overflowed. In nine hours 
 the river rose perpendicularly eight feet, and em- 
 barrassments thickened at every step. The current 
 was everywhere rapid ; the stream had spread itself 
 over the low grounds, exposing the bateaux to be 
 entangled in the drift wood and bushes ; sometimes they 
 were led away from the main stream into branches and 
 obliged to retrace their co"r and they were further 
 delayed by portages which became more frequent as 
 they advanced. To make matters worse, by the tur- 
 bulence of the waters seven bateaux were upset and 
 a.; their contents lost. The greater quantity of the 
 previously remaining provisions was lost and the 
 bravest consequently began to despond, especially 
 as they were yet thirty miles from the head of 
 the Ghaudiere. A council of war was held, at 
 which it was decided that the sick or feeble should 
 be sent back, and the others press forward ; and 
 accordingly, Arnold wrote to Greene and Colonel 
 
LAKE MEG ANTIC. 
 
 5^1 
 
 Enos, who were in the rear, ordering them to select 
 such a number of their strongest men as they could 
 sui)r>ly, with fifteen days provisions, and to come on 
 with them, leaving the others to return to Norridgewalk.^ 
 Enos misconstrued the order, retreated with his three 
 coHH)anies, and marched back to Cambridge. Arnold 
 himself hastened onward with about sixty men intend- 
 ing to proceed as soon as possible lo the inhabitants 
 of the Ghaudiere, and send back provisions to meet 
 the main forces ; and now the rain changed into snow, 
 which fell two inches deep, thus adding the sufferings 
 of cold to thoso of hunger and fatigue. Ice formed on 
 the surface of the water in which the men were obliged 
 to wade and drag the boats. Finally, the highlands 
 separating the eastern waters from those falling into 
 the St. Lawrence, were reached. A string of small 
 lakes, choked with logs and other obstructions, had 
 been passed through, near the sources of tiie Dead 
 River, and seventeen falls had been encountered in 
 ascending its whole distance, around which were por- 
 tages. The carrying place over the highlands was a 
 little more than four miles, at the termination of which 
 a small stream presented itself, which conducted the 
 boats by a very crooked course into the Lake Me- 
 gantic, the great fountain head of the Ghaudiere river, 
 a sheet of water thirteen miles long, three or four 
 broad, and surrounded by high mountains. Here, 
 Lieutenants Steel and Ghurch were met, and a person 
 named Jakins, who informed Arnold that the Cana- 
 dians were friendly, and rejoiced at the approach of 
 the army. Arnold and his party, encamped in a 
 large Indian wigwam that night on the eastern shore 
 of the Lake in tolerably good spirits. Next morning 
 he i?ent back instructions to the advancing troops, and 
 
52 
 
 THE CHAUDIERE. 
 
 Cm,. 
 Mil 
 
 c 
 
 II 
 
 ordering Captain Himchet and fifty-five men to march 
 by land along the margin of the Lake, embarked 
 with Captain Oswald and Lieutenants Steel and 
 Church, with thirteen men in five bateaux and a 
 birch canoe with the view of speedily reaching the 
 French inhabitants that he might be enabled to send 
 back provisions to meet the army. In three hours 
 the northern extremity of the Lake was reached, and 
 the Chaudiere entered, the river carrying them with 
 prodigious rapidity on its tide of waters boiling and 
 foaming over a rocky bottom. The baggage -was lashed 
 to the boats, and the danger was doubly threatening 
 as they had no guides. They fell at length among 
 rapids, when three of the boats were capsized, dashed 
 to pieces against the rocks, and all their contents swal 
 lowed up in the foaming flood. Fortunately for the 
 party no lives were lost although six men struggled for 
 some time in the water and were with difficulty saved. 
 This calamity Arnold ascribed to "a kind interposition 
 " of Providence, for no sooner had the men dried their 
 " clothes and re-embarked, than one of them who had 
 " gone forward called out a fall a head," which had 
 not been previouslydiscovered, and by which the whole 
 party would, only for this accident, have been hurried 
 to inevitable destruction. 
 
 • After this they were more cautious, but rapids and 
 falls succeeding each other at short intervals, the 
 birch canoe met with the fate of the three bateaux 
 by running upon a rock. Through its whole extent 
 the stream, raised by the late rains, was rough, rapid, 
 and dangerous ; but the party was fortunate in losing 
 no lives and in advancing quickly. On the third day 
 after leaving Lake Megan tic, being the thirtieth of 
 October. Arnold arrived at what Sparks calls Serti^an, 
 
WASHINGTON S MANIFESTO. 
 
 53 
 
 but which is now called Touffe des Pins^ fho first 
 French settlement, four milles below the junction of 
 the Riviere des Loups with the Ghaudiere, and seventy 
 miles from the lake by the course of the stream. 
 
 Arnold instantly sent several Canadians and In- 
 dians back with flour and cattle. The troops were 
 met marching through the woods near the banks of 
 the river, all their boats having been destroyed by the 
 violence of the rapids. The whole army arrived 
 within four or five days, emerging from the forest in 
 small, detached parties, and greeting once more, with 
 joy unspeakable, the habitations of civilized men. 
 They were received with kindness by the inhabitants, 
 yet hardly reconciled to their British conquerors. 
 The army had suffered terribly with hunger. So ex- 
 treme was the famine that on the last four or five davs 
 of the march dogs w^ere killed and greedily devoured. 
 
 Arnold assiduously courted the good wishes of the 
 habitants, and distributed a manifesto, signed by 
 General Washington, explaining the grounds of the 
 contest between Great Britain and America, and encou- 
 raging them to join their neighbours in a common 
 cause, by rallying around the standard of liberty, 
 Arnold produced a rather favourable impression, if it 
 be true, that old men to this day recount to ther chil- 
 dren the story of the « descent of the Bostonians, » 
 as the only great public event that has ever occurred 
 to vary the monotonous incidents of the sequestered 
 and beautiful valley of the Ghaudiere. Ten days after 
 reaching 'he now, and it must have been so then, 
 beautifully^ situated village of St. Mary, which is some 
 fifteen miles below Tou/fe des Pins, Arnold had arrived 
 at Point Levy. His troops followed, and w^ere all with 
 him at that place on the 1 3th November. Forty Indians 
 
54 
 
 POINTE LEVY. 
 
 c 
 
 c 
 
 were with them, who had joined at Toufj'c des Pwi.s, 
 (Sertigau) and on the march below. But his approach 
 had been made known at Quebec by a Savage, and all 
 the boats on the south, or rather eastern side of the St. 
 Lawrence — the river opposite Quebec being due north 
 and sou til — were withdrawn to prevent his crossing. 
 But Arnold collected some thirty or forty birch canoes 
 and resolved to cross at once. At nine in the even- 
 ing he crossed one party, landing them at Wolfe's 
 Gove, and in the darkness eluded a frigate and sloop 
 stationed in the St. Lawrence, for the purpose of inter- 
 cepting them. The canoes returned, and by four in 
 the morning, five hundred men had passed over, at 
 three separate times, and rendezvoused at Wolfe's 
 Gove. The last party had only landed when they were 
 discovered by one of the British gun-boats, into which 
 they fired and killed three men. It was not safe to 
 return again, and about one hundred and fifty men 
 were left at Pointe Levy. 
 
 > Without a moment's delay, Arnold and his, it is but 
 justice to say, gallant five hundred, clambered up 
 the precipice, where Wolfe, sixteen years before, had 
 conducted his army to the field of carnage and victory. 
 But although, Arnold paraded his troops upon the 
 plains, challenged the Lieutenant Governor Gramahe 
 to surrender or comie out and fight him at once, Gra- 
 mahe did not play the part of Montcalm, but sent 
 repeated discharges of cannon through the embrasures 
 on the walls, and required him to come in, if he could. 
 The garrison of Quebec had no idea, at first, of Arnold's 
 numbers, and no sooner ascertained them than a sortie 
 was determined upon, and the men, at Point Levy^. 
 having crossed the river and joined him, Arnold wisely 
 resolved upon retreating to Pointe aux Trembles, from 
 
THE CROSSING. 
 
 55 
 
 which place ho despatched a messsenger to General 
 Montgomery And it was on the same day that Ar- 
 nold left, that Governor Carle ton arrived at Quebec. 
 The Americains had gained command of the river 
 above Quebec ; and as all the British posts in Canada 
 had been taken except the Capital, this was the grand 
 object to be attained. i vr • ^. ^; ;mi 
 
 Montgomery made all haste to join Arnold for that 
 purpose ; and, leaving a small garrison at Montreal, 
 he embarked about three hundred men, several mor- 
 tars, and Captain Lamb's company of Artillery, on 
 board some of the armed vessel taken at Sorel, and 
 went down the river to Pointe aux Trembles. 
 
 The command now devolved on General Mont- 
 gomery and the two detachments marched immediately, 
 to the Heights of Abraham, where they arrived on the 
 4th of December. ^ 
 
 The effective force of the Americans was only 1,000 
 men, yet it was resolved to hazard an assault. 
 
 Montgomery occupied Holland House, now in the 
 possession of Robert Cassells, Esq., the present mansion 
 having been erected by George O'Kill Stuart, Esq., 
 Queen's Counsel, and formerly Mayor of Quebec, and 
 which is situated on the Saint Foy road. Arnold 
 took up his quarter in a house near Scott's Bridge. 
 
 The following minute account of the siege, assault, 
 death of Montgomery, retreat of the Americans, and 
 the burial and exhumation of the body of a gallant 
 but unfortunate officer, is from Hawkins' Picture of 
 Quebec : 
 
 The arrival of the Governor on the 19th November 
 had infused the Dest spirit among the inhabitants of 
 Quebec. On the 1st December, the motley garrison 
 amounted to eighteen hundred men — all, however, full 
 
5G 
 
 THE GARRISON. 
 
 {C 
 
 c 
 
 m 
 
 of zeal in the cause of their King and conn fry, and 
 well supplied with provisions for eight months. They 
 were under the inunediate commaud of Colonel Allan 
 Maclean, of the 84th regiment or Royal Kmi';rants, 
 composed principally of those of the gallant Fraser 
 Highlanders, who had settled in Canada, and was 
 thus made up. s)»ij.;. '1;* 
 
 70 Royal Fusileers, or 7th Regimeut. 
 
 230 Royal Emigrants, or 84th Regiment. 
 M 22 Royal Artillery. 
 
 330 British Militia, under Lt. Col. Caldwell. 
 
 543 Canadians, under Colonel Dupre. 
 
 400 Seamen, under Captains Hamilton and Mac- 
 ■■l kenzie. 
 
 ,' 50 Masters and Mates. 
 
 35 Marines. f-„.r"v..:',.'\^i'^ >^- 
 
 120 Artificers. ;f^^;^ - - 
 
 1800 Total bearing arms. 
 
 The Seige, or rather the blockade, was maintained 
 during the whole month of December, although the 
 incidents were few and of little interest. The Ameri- 
 cans were established in every house near the walls, 
 more particularly in the Suburb of St. Roch, near the 
 Intendent's Palace. . .* 
 
 , During this anxious period the gentry and inhabit- 
 tants of the city bore arms, and cheerfully performed 
 the duties of soldiers. The British Militia were con- 
 spic\ious for zeal and loyalty, under the command of 
 Major Henry Caldwell, who had the Provincial rank 
 of Lieutenant Colonel. He had served as Deputy 
 Quarter Master General with the army, under General 
 Wolfe, and had settled in the Province after the con- 
 quest. The Canadian Militia within the town was 
 
THli AHSAlJI/r. 
 
 57 
 
 commanded by Colonel LeComte Dupr6, an ofHccr of 
 groat zeal and ability, who rendered great services 
 during the whole siege. General Montgomery, des 
 pairing to reduce the place by a regular siege, resolved 
 on a night attack, in the hoxe of either taking it by 
 storm, or of finding the garrison unprepared in some 
 point. In this design he was encouraged by Arnold, 
 whose local knowledge of Quebec was accurate, 
 having acquired it in frequent visits, for the purpose 
 of buying up Canadian horses. — The intention of 
 Montgomery soon became known to the garrison, and 
 General Carleton made every preparation to prevent 
 surprise, and to defeat the assault of the enemy. For 
 several days the Governor, with the officers and gentle- 
 men off duty, had taken up their quarters in the 
 RecoUet Convent, where they slept in their clothes. 
 At last, early in the morning of the 31st December, 
 and during a violent snow storm, Montgomery, at 
 the head of the New York troops, advanced to the 
 attack of the Lower Town, from its western extremity, 
 along a road between the base of Cape diamond and 
 the river. Arnold, at the same time, advanced from 
 the General Hospital by way of St. Charles Street. 
 The two parties v/ere to meet at the lower end of 
 Mountain Street, and when united were to force 
 Prescott Gate. Two feint attacks in the meantime 
 on the side towards the west, were to distract the 
 attention of the garrison. Such is the outline of this 
 daring plan, the obstacles to the accomplishment of 
 which do not seem to have entered into the contem- 
 plation of the American officers, who reckoned too 
 much upon their own fortune and the weakness of the 
 garrison. 
 When, at the head of seven hundred men, Monl- 
 
o8 
 
 THE PRES DE VILLE. 
 
 r 
 
 Jill 
 
 gomcry had advanced a short distance, he came to 
 a narrow d.^file, with a precipice towards the river 
 on the onf ^de, and the scarped rock above him on 
 the other. This place is known by the name of 
 Pres-de-Ville. Here all further approach to the Lower 
 Town was intercepted, and commanded by a battery of 
 three pounders placed in a hangar on the south pass. 
 Tho Post was entrusted to a Gjiptain of Canadian 
 Militia, whose force consisted of thirty Canadian and 
 eight British militiamen with nine British seamen to 
 work the guns as artillery men, under Captain Barns- 
 farm, Master of a transport, laid up in the harbour 
 during the winter. At day-break, some of the guard, 
 being at the look-out, discovered through the imperfect 
 light, a body of troops in full march from Wolfe's 
 Cove upon the Post. The men had been kept under 
 arms waiting with the utmost steadiness for the attack, 
 which they had reason to expect, from the reports of 
 deserters ; and in pursuance of judicious arrangements 
 which had been previously concerted, the enemy was 
 allowed to approach unmolested within a small dis- 
 tance. They halted at about fifty yards from the 
 barrier ; and as the guard remained perfectly still, it 
 was probably concluded that they were not on the 
 alert. To ascertain this an officer was seen to ap- 
 proach quite near to the barrier. After listening a 
 moment or two, he returned to the body; and they 
 instantly dashed forward at a double quick time to the 
 Post. — This is what the guard expected : the artillery- 
 men stood by with lighted matches, and Captain 
 Barnsfarm at the critical moment giving the word, 
 the fire of the guns and musketry was directed with 
 deadly precision against the advancing column. The 
 consequence was a precipitate retreat — the enemy 
 
DEATH OF MONTGOMERY. 
 
 59 
 
 was scattered in every direction — the groans of the 
 wounded and of the dying were heard, but nothing 
 certain being known, the pass continued to be swept 
 by the cannon and musketry for the space of ten 
 minutes. The enemy having retired, thirteen bodies 
 were found in the snow, and Montgomery's Orderly 
 Serjeant, desperately wounded but yet alive, was 
 brought into the guard room. — On being asked if the 
 General himself had been killed, the Serjeant evaded 
 the question, by replying, that he had not seen him 
 for some time, although he could not but have known 
 the fact. This fai^.hful Serjeant died in about an hour 
 afterwards. It was not ascertained that the American 
 General had been killed, until some hours afterwards, 
 when General Garleton, being anxious to ascertain the 
 truth, sent an Aide-de-Gamp to the Seminary, to en- 
 quire if any of the American officers, then prisoners, 
 would identify the body. A field officer of Arnold's 
 division, who had been made prisoner near Sault-au- 
 Matelot barrier, consenting, accompanied the Aide-de- 
 Gamp to the Prhs-de-Villr guard, and pointed it out 
 among the other bodies, at the same time pronouncing, 
 in accents of grief, a glowing eulogium on Montgo- 
 mery's bravery and worth. Besides that of the 
 General,the bodies of his two Aides-de-Gamp were 
 recognized among the slain. The defeat of Mont- 
 gomery's force was complete, Golonel Gampboll, his 
 second in command, immediately relinquished the 
 undertaking, and led back his men with the utmost 
 precipitation, » ^ ■ 
 
 The exact spot where the barrier was erected 
 before which Montgomery fell, may be described 
 as crossing the narrow road under the mountain, 
 immediately opposite to the west end of a building 
 
 ,s, 
 
60 
 
 ARNOLDS ATTACK. 
 
 I 
 
 which stands on the south, and was formerly occupied 
 as a brev/ery. The battery extended to the south, and 
 nearly to the river. We have caused an inscription 
 commemorating the event to be placed upon the oppo- 
 site rock at Pres-de-ViUe. 
 
 Soon after the repulse of the enemy before the post 
 at Pres-de-ViUe, information was given to the officer in 
 command there, that Arnold's party from the General 
 Hospital, advancing along the St. Charles had captured 
 the barrier at the SauU-au-Matelot^ and that he intended 
 an attack upon that of Prh-de-ViUe^ by taking it in the 
 rear. Immediate preparations were made for the defence 
 of the post against such an attack by turning some of 
 the guns of an inner barrier towards the town ; and 
 although the intelligence proved false — Arnold having 
 been wounded and his division captured — yet the in- 
 cident deserves to be commemorated as affording a 
 satisfactory contradiction to some accounts which have 
 appeared in print, representing the guard at Pres-de- 
 Ville as having been paralized by fear, — the post and 
 barrier " deserted," — and the fire which killed Mont- 
 gomery merely " accidental." On the contrary, the cir- 
 cumstances we have related, being authentic, prove 
 that the conduct of th' Pres-dc-Ville guard was firm and 
 collected in the hour r danger ; and that by their 
 coolness and steadiness loy mainly contributed to the 
 safety of the city. Both - olonel Maclean and General 
 Carleton rendered every justice to their meritorious 
 behaviour on the occasion. i ,, . . 
 
 In the meantime the attack by Arnold on the north- 
 eastern side of the Lower Town was made with despe- 
 rate resolution. It was fortunately equally unsuccess- 
 ful, although the contest was more protracted, and at 
 one time the city was in no small danger, Arnold led 
 
SORTIE OF THE GARRISON. 
 
 Gl 
 
 \ 
 
 his men by files along the river St. Charles, until he 
 came to the SauU-mi-Matr.'ot^ where there was a^barrier 
 with two guns mounted. It must be unrlei-stood that St. 
 Paul street did not then exist, the tide coming up nearly 
 to the base of the rock, and the only path between the 
 rock and the beach was the narrow alley which now 
 exists in the rear of St. Paul street, under the preci- 
 pice itself. Here the curious visitor will find a jutting 
 rock, where was the first barrier. The whole of the 
 street went by tne name of SauU-auMatelot^ fropi the 
 most artcient times. Arnold took the command of the 
 forlorn hope, and was leading the attack upon the 
 barrier, when he received a musket wound in the 
 Jf.nee which disabled him, and he was carried back to 
 the Genen^l Hospital. His troops, however, persevered, 
 and having soon made themselves mxasters of the bar- 
 rier, pressed on through the narrow street to the attack 
 of the second, near the eastern extremity of SauU-au- 
 Matelot street. This was n battery which protected the 
 ends of the two streets called St. Peter street and SauU- 
 au-Matelot^ extending by means of hangars mounted 
 with cannon, from the rock to the river. The old 
 Custom House, then a private house, had cannon 
 projecting from the end windows, as had the house 
 at the end of Saultau-MateloL street. The enemy took 
 shelter in the houses on each side, and in the narrow 
 pass leading round the base of the cliff towards Hope 
 Gate, where they were secured by the angle of the 
 rock from the fire of the guns at the barrier. Here the 
 enemvmet with a determined resistance, which it was 
 impossible to overcome, and General Carleton having 
 ordered a sortie from Palace Gate under Captain Laws, 
 in order to take them in the rear — and their rear 
 guard under Captain Dearborn, having already sur- 
 o2 
 
62 
 
 LOSS OF THE AMERICANS. 
 
 m 
 
 i 
 
 rendered, the division of Arnold demanded quarter, 
 and wei»e brought prisoners to the Upper Town. The 
 officers were confined in the seminary. The contest 
 continued for upwards of two hours, and the bravery 
 of the assailants was indisputable. Through the freez- 
 ing cold, and the pelting of the storm, they maintained 
 the attack until all hopes of success were lost, when 
 they surrendered to a generous enemy, who treated 
 the wounded and prisoners with humanity. 
 
 The,Americans lost in the attack about one hundred 
 killed and w^ounded, and six officers of Arnold'^ party, 
 exclusive of the loss at Pres-de-Ville. The British lost 
 one officer, Lieut. Anderson of the Royal Navy, and 
 seventeen killed and wounded. The following is a, 
 statement of the force which surrendered : •?; 
 
 ■f-i ;■:',? /^^^ 
 
 1 Lieutenant-Colonel, ^ 
 
 2 Majors, 
 8 Captains, ■■■"-i:f\->. 
 
 15 Lieutenants, 
 1 Adjutant, 
 1 Quarter-Master, 
 4 Volunteers, i' : ■ 
 367 Rank and file. 
 44 Officers and soldiers,'wounded. 
 
 r.o.rt'r*; 
 
 ■{■■'»-{\ 
 
 mi'iH 
 
 J ♦. 
 
 Not wounded. 
 
 ihi 
 
 ':\-x- 
 
 at, ■ 
 
 426 Total surrendered. 
 
 ■t I 
 
 By the death of Montgomery the command devolved 
 upon Arnold, who had received the rank of Brigadier 
 General. In a letter dated 14th January, 1776, he com- 
 plains of the great difficulty he had in keeping his 
 remaining troops together so disheartened were they 
 by their disasters on the 31st December. 
 
 The seige now resumed its former character of a 
 blockade, without any event of importance, until the 
 month of March, when the enemy received reinforce- 
 
THE DISINTERMENT. — AFFIDAVIT. 
 
 ments tliat increased their numbers to near two thou- 
 sand men. 
 
 A Council of War was called on the 15tli of Ma^-, 
 and it was determined to raise the seige at once, and 
 to retire to Montreal. 
 
 The following facts relating to the interment and dis- 
 interment of the body of General Montgomery may be 
 relied upon as authentic : — 
 
 In the year 1818, a request having been made to the 
 Governor-in-chief, Sir John Sherbrooke, for leave to 
 disinter the remains of General Montgomery, in order 
 that they might be conveyed to New York, and there 
 reinterred, His Excellency acceeded to the request, 
 which came to him on the part of Mrs Montgomery, 
 the widow of the General. Mr. Thompson gave the 
 following affidavit of the facts in order to satisfy 
 the surviving relations and friends of General Mont- 
 gomery, that the remains which had been so disin- 
 terred after the lapse of forty two years by the same 
 hand that had interred them, were really those of the 
 late General. Mr. Thompson belonged to the army 
 ofWolfe, inl759. 
 
 " I, James Thompson, of Quebec, in the Province 
 " of Lower Canada, do testify and declare — that I 
 " served in the capacity of an Assistant Engineer 
 " during the siege of this city, invaded during the 
 " years 1775 and 1776 by the American forces under 
 " command of the late Major General Richard Mont- 
 " gomery. That in an attack made by the American 
 " troops under the immediate command of General 
 " Montgomery, in the night of the 31st December, 
 " 1775, on a British post at the southernmost ex- 
 " tremity of the city, near Pres-dc-Vilk^ the General 
 " received a mortal wound, and with him were killed 
 
64 
 
 AFFIDAVIT. 
 
 C 
 I 
 
 " his two Aides-de-Gamp, McPherson and Gheesemaii, 
 " who were found in the morning of the 1st January, 
 "^1776, ahnost covered with snow. That Mrs. Prentice 
 " who kept an Hotel, at Quebec, and with whom Ge- 
 " neral Montgomery had previou.sly bouided, was 
 " brought to view the body alter it was placed in the 
 " Guard Room, and which she recognized by a parti- 
 '^ cular mark, which he had on the side of his head, 
 " to be the general's. That the body was then con- 
 " veyed to a house, (Gobert's * ) by order of Mr. Gra- 
 " malie, who provided a genteel coffin for the General's 
 " body, which was lined inside with flannel, and out- 
 " side of it with black clock. That in the night of the 
 " 4th January, it was conveyed by me from Gobert's 
 " house and was interred six feet in front of the gate, 
 " within a wall that surrounded a powder magazine 
 '• near the remparts bounding on St. Lewis Gate. That 
 *' the funeral service was performed at the grave by 
 " the Revd. Mr. de Montmolin, then Chaplain of the 
 " garrison. That his two Aides-de-Camp were buried 
 " in their clothes without any coffins, and that no 
 " person was buried within twenty five yards of the 
 " General. That I am positive and can testify and 
 " declare, that the coffin of the late General Montgo- 
 " mery, taken up on the morning of the 15th of the 
 "present month of June 1818, is the identical coffin 
 " deposited by me on the day of his burial, and that 
 " the present coffin contains the remains of the late 
 " General. I do further testify and declare that subscr 
 " quent to the finding of General Montgomery's body 
 " I wore his sword, being lighter than my own, and 
 
 * Goherl's house was at the torner of St. Lewis and St. Ursule streetSj 
 opposite the City Hall, St. Lewia Street. 
 
REMARKS. 
 
 63 
 
 " on going to the Seminary, where the American 
 *' officers were lodged, they recognized the sword, 
 *' which affected them so much that numbers of them 
 " wept, in consequence of which I have never worn 
 " the sword since. , 
 
 " Given under my hand, at the city of Quebec, 
 *' Province of Lower Canada, 19Lh June, 1818. 
 
 '""*■'"•"'•**"'""*"'■"'*' James TnoMPSon." ^''^'" 
 
 Over the spot where the brave American breathed 
 his last, the late Alfred Hawkins, Esquire, placed 
 this inscription on the Rock of Gape Diamond : ,. , 
 
 HERE MONTGOMERY FELL. 
 ... December, 31st, 1775. 
 
 •I ^ 
 
 'i- 
 
 it 'ii'* 
 
 I 
 
 »t'* 
 
 What the effect on the peculiar institutions and 
 social habits of those who were so well disposed 
 to the « Old Colonists " of England, had they suc- 
 ceeded in obtaining full possession of Canada, would 
 have been 80 or 90 years afterwards, or now, can 
 only be a matter of conjecture, but it is more than 
 probable that they would have been still more quickly 
 displaced for, or amalgamated with a more energetic 
 and enterprising race, and that few of the monu- 
 ments of former times would now have remained in 
 Quebec. The acknowledgment of American inde- 
 pendence, and the peace which subsequently ensued, 
 had the effect of settling Upper Canada and of placing 
 into that section of the country, a race of men, neither 
 blind to their personal interests, nor to the general 
 interests of the country, and some of whose descendants 
 have concocted and assisted in carrying out those vast 
 
66 
 
 1812. 
 
 iC 
 
 schemes in the way of internal improvements of 
 which we can now so proudly boast. 
 
 A second attempt was made to obtain possession 
 of Canada after the declaration of war between the 
 United States and England in 1812 ; but that was 
 even less successful than the earlier attempt had 
 been. No portion of Canada then fell into the hands 
 of the people and government of the United States, 
 although their exploits on the great lakes were 
 creditable to their entreprise, energy, and bravery, 
 and to their race, a race with which they had chiefly 
 
 to contend. 
 
 Operations, on the British side, were then conducted 
 by orders from the Governor-in-Chief, at Quebec, 
 General Sir George Prevost, who afterwards disgraced 
 the British army at Plattsburg. 
 
 ■ 5 , : . , A * i, ' 
 
 ^: 
 

 '\; .-}> 
 
 
 CHAPTER IT. 
 
 The Rebellion — Attack upon Fort Maiden — The Temptation—Incidents 
 of the e8cape — The Escape — The Alarm — ^The Accidents— An En- 
 counter in Town — Houses of Refuge — Wrath of the Commandant — 
 Theller*3 view of Quebec— The Conflagrations of May and June^ 
 1845— The Government Riding School Burnt. 
 
 After the conclusion of this unhappy contest between 
 kindred peoples, Canada began to grow as an English 
 Colony. Immigration was encouraged, and there was 
 a general disposition to cultivate the arts of peace ; but 
 legislation in a new country by men without real 
 representative strength, or fettered in the use of it, as 
 especially were the parliamentary representatives of 
 Lower Canada, could not be otherwise than discon- 
 ti3nted, the more particularly as the official class, who 
 cculd scarcely be called even English colonists, were 
 over-bearing, and presumptuously treated, not only 
 the conquered inhabitants, but such old country peo- 
 ple as were not largely e.igaged in business, or had 
 no government employmei. t. Quebec was then, and 
 for years had been, the h jadquarters of discontent, 
 the place where the talented, and it may be, patriotic 
 L. J. Papineau, declaimed ; where the brilliant Andrew 
 Stuart eloquently defended the rights of Englishmen, 
 and upheld the character of the British people ; where 
 his brother, the late Sir James Stuart, who died Chief 
 Justice of the province, thundered against the tyranny of 
 a privilged bureaucracy ; where the slern and wise John 
 Neilson sought justice without attempting to produce 
 
08 
 
 THELLER. 
 
 k 
 
 I i 
 
 rebellion ; and whero men of lesser mark stirred up 
 the passions of the inhabitants of the Richelieu District 
 until that rebellion was prodnccd, whicli led to another 
 remarkable occurrence at Quebec. After the afifair of 
 St. Denis ; the murder of Lieutenant Weir; the matter 
 of St. Charles ; the storm and capture of the church of 
 St. Eustache; and the battle of Toronto, there were 
 fiUibustering attempts to invade Canada, neither 
 recognized by the government of the United States nor 
 by the bulk of the people, but indulged in by a party 
 sentimental with regard to liberty, and by others to 
 whom plunder and excitement was congenial. In one 
 of these fiUibustering expeditions "General » Suther- 
 land, "Brigadier General)) Theller, Colonel Dodge, 
 Messrs. Brophy, Thayer and other residents, if not 
 citizens of the United States, sailed from Detroit in 
 the schooner «Anne)) for Bois Blanc, which having 
 been « settled,)) an attack was made upon Fort Maiden 
 on the 8th of January, 1838, terminating in the cap- 
 ture of Theller, Dodge, Brophy and some others, 
 General Sntherland having been afterwards captured 
 on the ice, at the mouth of the river Detroit by Colonel 
 John Prince of the Canadian Militia. ' - 
 
 The prisoners, after having been for a time in gaol 
 at Toronto, were transferred, some to Fort Henry at 
 Kingston, and others, among whom were Sutherland, 
 Theller, and Dodge, to the Citadel of Quebec, which 
 was then occupied by a Battalion of the Guards and 
 there imprisoned, but treated with consideration and 
 courtesy. It was not, however, unnatural that they 
 should endeavour to escape They were taken out of- 
 their prison house daily, for an airing, in charge of a 
 guard, and as it would appear, were not altogether 
 denied the opportunity of conversing with persons 
 
THK KSGAPE. 
 
 ()0 
 
 who wero frieit&ly to thorn. Theller, in an account 
 of the Rebellion in Canada, edited, it is said, by 
 General Roberts, of Detroit, himself minutely details 
 the nature and manner of his intercourse with a Mr. 
 P. S. Grace, while under the charge of the military in 
 Cape Diamond, how he succeeded in bribing soldiers' 
 wives and in cultivating the friendship of officers, 
 non-commissioned ofhcers, and men of the guards, 
 much of which is exaggerated, and some of which is 
 evidently untrue. Some of the Serjeants for small 
 presents, Theller asserts, did whatever he required, in 
 the way of bringing books and newspapers from town 
 and articles of food and drink from the canteen, 
 which is undoubtedly true, but no man in the regi- 
 ment either directly or indirectly connived at the 
 escape. It was the result of clever management on 
 the part of Theller, Dodge, and his companions, and 
 of unsuspecting stupidity on the part of the sentry 
 who guarded the door of the prison, and indeed of 
 all who seemed to have had intercourse with the 
 prisoners, the escape was thus effected. On a dark 
 rainy night, late in October, 1838, an iron bar having 
 been previously cut through with a file given them 
 from without,— the sawing having been effected during 
 performances on the shrill fife of one of the flfers of 
 the garrison, which a prisoner had borrowed for the 
 purpose of passing away the time and keeping up the 
 spirits of his companions in misfortune, some of whom 
 were despondent. Theller's conversation seduced a 
 sentry into conversation, next to smoke a pipe, then to 
 drink a tumbler of London porter, drugged with rather 
 more than "three times sixty drops » of laudanum. 
 The sentry struggled hard to prevent the drowsiness 
 that was stealing over him ; he spoke thick and mut- 
 
70. 
 
 BTUPBFACTION. 
 
 c: 
 
 Ic 
 
 ( 
 
 terred that he had never before drunk anything so 
 good or strong. lie walked about in the rain to keep 
 himself awake, and staggered a little. Galled again 
 to the window by the "General,)) he said «ay — yes 
 certainly)) and staggered over. He said he was «well, 
 Sir — fine Sir — right well, never was better,)) andTheller 
 while his companions were getting ready to squeeze 
 themselves through the iron wiudow which had lost a 
 bar, talked to the man of the virtues of strong drink, 
 and particularly of London porter; but added that 
 French brandy was still better. The soldier was not so 
 sure of that, and hiccuped negatively. The great dose 
 of laudanum in porter had not yet produced stupefac- 
 tion, if Theller is to be credited, and half a tumbler 
 of brandy in addition was administered to the simple 
 fellow, who was so fond of all the good things of* life, 
 which " nearly choked him. In a friendly way, 
 Theller then passed his arm through the gratings of 
 one window round the stupified sentry's neck while 
 Dodge passed through, then Thayer held the sentry, 
 while Theller was positively squeezed out by Par- 
 tridge, who immediately afterwards followed, together 
 with another person named Parker. The rain had 
 ceased, but the water pouring down into the tubs 
 which had been placed to catch it from the conduc- 
 tors, and the wind, made noise sufficient to drown 
 the sound of footsteps. One by one they slowly moved 
 along, and got behind a small cook-house that was 
 near. The last man, in getting round to the cooking 
 establishment, unfortunately stumbled over a large tin 
 pail that had been placed to catch water from a spout. 
 The noise aroused the attention of a sentry on the 
 ramparts formed by the roof of the casemates, who 
 looked down, but apparently could see nothing. At 
 
THE 8BNT1UKS. 
 
 71 
 
 that moment a sentry, further on, challenf,'ecl, calling 
 out « who goes there ? » and was answ(M'ed by tlie relief 
 in the usual manner, which satisfied the first sentry 
 as to the first noise. Theller and his companions 
 crouched down as the relief passed. They went on and 
 relieved the post ; tiien relieved the man above and 
 descended. As they again passed, Theller and the others 
 again crouched down, the whereabouts of the relief 
 being indicated by a lantern, carried by an accom- 
 panying drummer boy. Even the features oi the sol- 
 diers were discernible. As the escaping party knelt, 
 Theller covered with the skirt of his coat a bundle of 
 clothes, tied up in a white handkerchief, carried by 
 one of his party, le^t it might attract nrl^ce. Passing 
 a third time, they went forward to relieve the sentry 
 outside of the enclosure. At this time, says Theller, 
 we could distinctly hear the man, whom we had left 
 at the window, pulling in the sheet from over the 
 fence, the noise he made, and the whispering of the 
 other person at the window, arousing the stupified 
 sentry. The guard relief did not hear, being muffled 
 up, and, not suspecting anything, intent only upon 
 their ordinary duty. The opening of the door of the 
 enclosure and the challenge of the other sentinel 
 partially aroused the inner sentry from his stupor, 
 who loudly challenged as they approached. After the 
 usual forms of relief had been gone through, the Cor- 
 poral said to the relieving sentry "go in,)) that was 
 inside of the enclosure, he himself remaining outside. 
 As the relieved sentry came out, the door of the enclo- 
 sure, or wooden paling, round the prison house was 
 again locked. Oar « friend, » says Theller, was the 
 last file, and luckily was it as he rather staggered than 
 marched, and carried his musket in a most indepen- 
 
7v 
 
 THE SLEEP. 
 
 i 
 
 dent mapner. As soon as the sentry got to the guard 
 room, he threw himself on the bed, his condition being 
 unnoticed, where he slept for sixteen hours, and might 
 have slept forever had not the surgeon and the stomach 
 pump been brought into requisition. 
 
 The escaping party moved cautiously forward at 
 respectable distances from each other, along the can- 
 teen, and then got out into the middle of the great 
 square to elude the sentry at the ma'^'izine. While 
 there a serjeant came rushing from the guard room 
 towards the officers' quarters, the red, or as they 
 appeared, dark stripes being visible on a white undress 
 jacket. .It seemed to be an alarm. There were only 
 three sentinels between the escaping party and the 
 llagstaff, where the descent was intended. Ahead was 
 one whose duty was to guard the back part of the 
 magazine and a pile of firewood, which was there 
 corded up, and also to prevent soldiers from going to 
 the canteen. Another stood opposite the door of the 
 officers' mess room. There was room enough i i the 
 darkness to pass three sentinels, and Theller and his 
 companions, no longer crawled bi^t walked upwright, 
 one by one, quietly, but passing along as quickly as 
 possible. Parker, however, after the sergeant passed, 
 Decame much excited and terribly nervous, and lost 
 his way. He made some noise and a sentry challenged, 
 but without answering, the rest hurried towards the 
 half-moon battery where the flagstaff is. Passing 
 round the old telegraph post on the right side, near 
 the stabling attached to the otficers' quarters, a 
 sentinel there with side arms only or as he is technically 
 termed '-a flying Dick," challenged, and Theller 
 asserts he promptly answered "officer of the guard," 
 when the countersiga been demanded, he muttered 
 
TF!E COUNTERSIGN. — THE LEAP. 
 
 73 
 
 near 
 
 I 
 
 —"teen," having learned during the confinement, that 
 the countersign of the guards ordinarly ended so : — 
 seventeen, eighteen, nineteen or such like, and the 
 sentry fancying from the cap with a gold lace-band on 
 it, which having undone his cloak, Theller placed 
 upon his head, that he was one of the officers, >nffer<'d 
 him to pass. Porker iiad got among the firewood 
 and was making a noise. Dodge was running about 
 on the top of the wall, m.aking signals for Grace and 
 other friends who were to be outside, but could see no 
 one there. The haulyards of the flagstaff were then 
 jiartially cut down with a penknife. An alarm was 
 now given by an officer of the garrison, who acciden- 
 tally came upon Culver, one of the escaping p^irty, and 
 in a moment the drums beat and the guard turned out. 
 Th(^ officers rushed out of the mess-room ; an Artille- 
 ry mm detected Parker, and the cry arose that the 
 Americnn prisoners were loose and escaping. Some 
 immediately ran towards the prison, while others 
 dnigged Parker to the guard room, and yet others 
 began to search about for the "General, » Colonel 
 J)odge, Culver, and Hall, whom Parker intimated in 
 reply to a question put to him by an officer, had only 
 come out. There was no alternative, but to jump from 
 the wall to the flat part of the precipice below, on 
 which the wall is built, which Theller first did. For 
 an instant he hung by his hands, then dropped and 
 alighted on his feet on the solid rock, fallifii; back on 
 his head. He was stunned, and lay a minuie or two 
 unconscious. When he came to himself, he heard 
 Dodge inquiring if he was hart, and replied in the 
 negative, telling him to throw dowr. the bundle of 
 cloaks, and leap upon them, Thel!r,r had broken the 
 outer bone of his leg and dislocated his right ankle joint, 
 
74 
 
 THE niTRH. 
 
 *'} I, 
 
 C 
 
 but had been so stiiniiBd llint lie scarcely felt any pain. 
 Culver descended next niu] was stunned, tlje blood 
 gushing from his noso nnd inoiitfi ; be bad, it is said 
 also fractured his leg. flulver was more fortunale as 
 he alighted on the top of a pile of cloaks and was 
 little, if at all, hurt. Dodge then throwing down the 
 piece of rope which he bad cut from the haulyards, 
 to be used in the next descent, also slipped down the 
 wall upon the pile of cloakx and was unhurt. The 
 second descent was made with the aid of the rope, 
 the end of which was held by two of the party, while 
 Theller, with his wounded leg, slipped down over a 
 piece of cedar post which had been accidentally placed 
 against the wall of the ditch ; Culver followed, then 
 Hall held the rope alone for Dodge, and afterwards 
 descended himself as all had done on the first leap, 
 caught as he came to the ground, however, by the 
 rest of the party. Dodge, in saving Hall from falling 
 after or as he leaped, sprained his wrist. The whole 
 party, however, managed to crawl up the outer wall 
 of the ditch, which was faced with dry stone, by in- 
 serting their hands into the interstices and using their 
 feet as well as they could. They rested on the summit 
 of the glacis for a moment, and saw the search that 
 was being made for them inside by the lights that 
 were flashing about in every nook and cranny. Thel- 
 ler, as quickly as he could, bound his cravat as tightly 
 as he could round his ankle, and got up. Hall carried 
 Culver, and Theller leaning on Dodge's shoulder 
 hopped along down the sloping glacis to Des Carrieres 
 street. Their Hall and Culver were helped O' er into 
 the lower Governor's garden, to wait until friends 
 could be sent for them, as a crippling party of four, 
 hobbling through \\w t^tvt^uts .4 the town at that hour 
 
FRANKNESS. 
 
 75 
 
 of the night, might be looked upon with suspicion. 
 There friends were to whistle a particular tune, and 
 receive for answer the word « Canada.)) Theller and 
 Dodge found themselves opposite the residence of the 
 ((Receiver General;)) (possibly the residence of Mr. 
 Jeffrey Hale,) then passed the sentry, stationed near 
 Wolfe and Montcalm's monument, when the sentry 
 mistaking them in their semi-military costume and in 
 the darkness, for British officers, carried arms. They 
 had turned the corner of a street near the residence of 
 Major Perrault, and when near the residence of Sir 
 John Colborijo, which was then in Mount Garmel 
 street, they knocked at the door of several houses 
 which they supposed were occupied by the French 
 Canadians, in whom they thought trust could be 
 placed ; but no door was opened, and they hopped 
 along. Dodge hearing the sound of voices went on a 
 little in advance and said there were two persons up 
 Haldimand street ; and before they got to the head of 
 that street, the party, two gentleman and a lady came 
 ap, whom Theller accost<?d in French, asking what 
 o'clock it was. The answer was, nearly one o'clock. 
 One of the gentlemen had a lantern in his hand, and, 
 Theller says, examined his features, when making a 
 virtue of necessity, he told them his name. The lady 
 seemed frightened, the other gentleman started for- 
 ward to look at him, saying, « Mon dieu ! how did you 
 ('escape from the citadal?)) The reply was, « jumped 
 « the wall. » « Good heaven, » exclaimed the gentleman, 
 ((are you not hurt?)) «My leg, I believe, is broken,)) 
 responded Dodge, who requested to be directed for- 
 ward to his friends. Being asked who they were, 
 Theller said that every Canadian ought to be a friend 
 to them, but the gentleman said he was no patriot and 
 
:6 
 
 THE STREET. 
 
 ! J 
 
 4 
 
 ( 
 
 must apprehend and commit him. Whereupon Thel- 
 ler asserts he put his hand into his bosom as if to draw 
 a weapon, when the gentleman said, «Well, as you 
 «havft been so fvniik witli me, 1 will let you pass and 
 "will give no alarm.); 
 
 After this, they passed something like a nunnery 
 but before getting there, passed a sentry at the door of 
 some officer, ns they supposed, who challenged, but 
 mistook them for drunken officers. They crossed the 
 upper market place, passed down Hope street, and got 
 out through the wicket of Hope gate. The guard was 
 immediately afterwards turned out and Theller alleges, 
 orders given to prevent the egress of the persons who 
 had escaped from the citadel. At or near Lepper's 
 Brewery in Paul street they sat down to rest upon a 
 log of wood outside of a fence which inclosed a ship- 
 yard but did not remain there long. They next met a 
 French Canadian, whose name was Michel, and who, 
 on being informed who they were and what they had 
 done, embraced them. The Canadian took Thelli r on 
 his back and trotted off with him to the house of their 
 friend nearly a mile off in the suburb of St. Roch, 
 Dodge keeping up as well as he could. The friend 
 opened his door and took them in. Theller then sent 
 off word to one of his other friends, either Grace or 
 Hunter, to go for Hall and Culver, left behind in the 
 Governor's garden, and bring them to a place of safety. 
 Dodge went wit>i them as far as the residence of a Mr. 
 Hunter, outside of the walls, and Michel, who was well 
 known was to pass through the gates and conduct Hall 
 and Culver to Grace's home in Couillard street, within 
 the gates. Theller was left behind, with his friend's 
 wife, who bathed his feet, which were then so swollen 
 that his stockings had to be cut off. His broken leg was 
 
 I 
 
 M 
 
Sm JAMES MACDONELL. 
 
 was 
 
 very painful. About, two hours afterwards, the hus- 
 band came back without Dodge, who had been left 
 behind in care of Messrs. Hunter and Grace, who had 
 taken him to a place where he would be safe. Culver 
 and Hall were shortly afterwards retaken in a tavern 
 into which they had gone, and reconducted to their 
 old quarters in the citadel. Theller was taken off from 
 Michel's house in St. Rochs, in a cart, to a barn behind 
 a house situated to the north of Scott's bridge, and lay 
 there for the night among hay ; from thence after his 
 wounded limb had been dressed by a patriot surgeon, 
 he was transported to Beauport, dressed as a habitant. 
 Afterwards he and Dodge were placed together in a 
 hole dug under a stable, in St. John suburbs. On the 
 Srd of November, disguised as priests, they succeeded 
 in crossing to Point Levy, and from thence reached the 
 lines on horseback, scarcely halting until they were 
 in the town of Augusta, Maine. 
 
 General Sir James McDonell, who commanded the 
 Brigade of Guards, was furiously angry when in- 
 formed of the escape of the prisoners. The nunneries 
 and many private houses were searched; rewards 
 were olTf^red, and the different roads leading to the 
 city were guarded. 
 
 The Serjeant of the citadel guard was reduced to the 
 ranks for gross neglect of duty, and the sentry, who 
 had suffered himself to be made stupified, flogged. 
 
 To the grandeur of the prospect from the citadel, 
 Theller bears the following testimony : — 
 
 « The town-major had chosen the most agreable part 
 « of the works for us to walk, and where we could 
 "have the most pleasant prospect; indeed, I believe 
 « there could not be found, on the continent of America, 
 <( a more delightful view, nor a more romantic scenery 
 
 E 
 
78 
 
 A GLIMPSE. 
 
 11^ 
 
 ( 
 
 I? 
 
 « than could be seen from that spot, which was marked 
 « out for the limits of our walk. From it we could 
 '( view the city, as it were Leneath our feet, men busy 
 « about the usual vocations of life, and bustling about 
 « like so many ants, whom, in size from the vast height, 
 « they somewhat resembled ; the beautiful St. haw- 
 « rence before us, which, for miles, we could see filled 
 (( with large vessels of war, frigates and steamships, as 
 « well as those destined for commerce. Opposite us, 
 « on the other shore of the river, was Point Levy, and 
 « below that was the Island of Orleans, with its fertile 
 (( fields and beautiful green verdure and neatly white- 
 « washed cottages, showing that neatness and comfort 
 « was the lot of its inhabitants; and at a far distance 
 '« were the mountains of Maine, to us, although the 
 « past winter's snow had not left their bleak tops, yet 
 « a more beautiful sight, for there dwelt the people of 
 « our country, who lived in freedom and in peace, 
 (( under the protection of the stripes and stars of the 
 « American banner. The mist arising from the falls 
 (< of Montmorency, only nine miles down the river, 
 « with the noise of its cataract, in the calmness of a 
 « summer evening, blending with the hum of the busy 
 « men of the city beneath, and the noise of the mariner, 
 <( as he loaded or unloaded his bark at the wharves 
 '< below, mingled together, cieating a sound far from 
 « unpleasant. Quebec, from that height, and at that 
 '( time, to us, was peculiarly interesting. The quaiiit 
 « and foreign style of its architecture ; the massy and 
 « compact material of which its houses were built ; 
 « its numerous churches and glittering spires ; its 
 « population — their looks, their manners, and their 
 « language — seemed not to belong to America. Nor 
 « did its wall-environed city, defended by numerous 
 
THE ALARM. 
 
 79 
 
 US, 
 
 ^ 
 
 < canons and garrisoned by troops, having the disci- 
 « plino, the arms, and the gorgeous costume of Europe — 
 « foreign in language, features, and in origin, from the 
 « great mass of the people whom they have been sent, 
 « not to defend, but to oppress ; the red-cross flag of 
 « Britain flying above our heads, showed, had we 
 « before been ignorant of the matter, what power 
 « held it in subjection. The numerous vessels unlad- 
 « ing troops and military stores, were pointed out to us 
 « in one place, while at another, accompanied by mar- 
 « tial music, whose strains could be distinctly heard, 
 « we could see detachments of the red-coat regulars 
 « embarking for the upper country, to again crush an 
 tt attempt at insurrection, which the Governor of Upper 
 « Canada feared was about to take place. Pleased at 
 « the sight we had seen, and struck with its beauty, 
 « the half hour destined for our exercise soon slipped 
 « past, and we had to return to our lone dark room, to 
 « await for the next twenty-four hours, the time again 
 « to come, that we might enjoy the same prospect.)) 
 
 THE GREAT FIRES. 
 
 Seven years after the escape of Theller and Dodge, 
 when the country had become politically quiet, and 
 all the ((patriots)) had been either hanged or appointed 
 to office, Quebec again became a place of note. On 
 the 28th of May, 1845, the day being scorchingly hot, 
 witli a high wind and clouds of dust i ashing along the 
 roads, the bells of the clmrches of St. Roch rang out 
 the well known alarm of fire. A large tannery, in St. 
 Vallier street, was in a blaze, and the roofs of the 
 adjoining houses, covered with shingles, heated almost 
 to the point of ignition by the sun, the immediate 
 application of the fire to make them also burn was 
 
80 
 
 THE GREAT FIRES. — L03S OF LIFE. 
 
 C 
 
 Ic 
 
 r 
 
 scarcely necessary. For nearly an liour the fire was 
 confined to the tannery; but about mid-day, the wind 
 increased and carried the burning embers far and wide. 
 The houses on the cliff above caught ; below in the 
 suburb of St. Roch several houses, situated much apart 
 from each other, simultaneously began to burn ; the 
 lieat and the wind more and more increased ; the nar- 
 row streets were filled with people rushing madly to 
 and fro, removing articles of furniture to some sup- 
 posed place of safety; fire-engines were being hurled 
 along from place to place as fast as horses could gallop ; 
 carts rattled about, loaded and unloaded; vehicles of 
 all descriptions were mixed up witli men, women, and 
 cliildren ; soldiers were tearing down houses, if pos- 
 sible to arrest the progress of the devouring element ; 
 but still, lifted up by the wind, the fire leaped into 
 other streets, and far away to leeward the red plague 
 was seen bursting up through the wooden roofs and 
 the planked roads ; overhead and on every side there 
 was fire. It was only arrested at six in the evening, 
 by the blowing up of two houses in the Hue Ganc- 
 terie, near Hope Gate ; the whole of the populous 
 suburb of St. Roch having been destroyed. Nearly 
 for a mile was one mass of flames. Churches, ship- 
 yards, everything, had been burnt over. Next day, 
 many half consumed bodies lay about, and also the 
 carcases of a great number of horses and cattle. 
 This was surely a calamitous enough occurrence for 
 one year ; but Providence had ordained it otherwise. 
 On the same day of the following month of June, at 
 midnight, the cry of fire again arose. In a house not 
 far from St. John's Gate, a conflagration had begun, 
 which was not to be ended until the whole of St. 
 John suburb met the fate which St. Roch liad already 
 
LOSS OF LIFE. 
 
 81 
 
 experienced. The weather was still hot, and simul- 
 taneously through the houses or from roots the flames 
 rose high into the air, sweeping up, as far as the toll 
 gate, one side of St. John street, and the whole of 
 George Mid the other streets to the Gime du Gap, 
 above St. Roch, then spreading slowly upwards 
 towards St. Lewis suburb, by daylireak, in spite of 
 the repeated blowing up of houses with gun-powder, 
 scarce a vestige of the suburb remained, except the 
 chi.nnies of what once ^\ere houses. The very tomb- 
 stones in the church-yard were defaced and the head- 
 boards destroyed. 
 
 In these two fires sixteen thousand people were 
 burned out ; £560,000 worth of property destroyed, 
 and upwards of forty human beings perished. Insu- 
 rance had been elFected to the amount of JG 125,000 or 
 $500,000. A Relief Gommittee was promptly formed. 
 The Merchants and some of the public institutions 
 subscribed largely towards the relief of the sufferers : 
 and appeals were made to England, the United States, 
 and indeed to the world, for aid, which was promptly 
 afforded, upwards of £100,000 having been subscribed. 
 The Queen caused charity sermons to be preached 
 throughout the United Kingdom, and sliowed an 
 example herself by munificently subscribing towards 
 the relief fund. In a very short time, the suburbs 
 "were rebuilt in a more substantial manner, and the 
 streets widened and otherwise improved ; bricks and 
 stones were used in building instead of wood, and two 
 suburbs have arisen upon the ruins of the former 
 ones, pleasant to look upon. 
 
 In June of the following year, the riding school, 
 attached to the Chateau ^^t. Louis, wlu'h had been 
 
IC 
 ( 
 
 82 
 
 THE HfDINC. SCHOOL. 
 
 converted into a Theatre, was aestroyed by fire duuiig 
 the exhibiliou ot Harrison's Diorama, and no less than 
 45 persons, many of whom were peoi.lo of good stand- 
 ing in society, lost their lives. 
 
 :.-•(* '■ yrt 
 
 .K-f >'. ' 
 
 i t 
 
PART II. 
 
 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 A Drive—The Cemetery— Marine Hospital—" Chien d'Or "— rhurcbes— 
 Church of England— Presbyterian Churches— Wesieynn, Congrega- 
 tional and Baptist Churches— St. Patrick's Church— Roman Catholic 
 Cathedral— University of Laval— Water-Woiks-The Music Hall— 
 The Court House — Parliament House — Hotels- Literary Institutions — 
 ?\Iontmorenci — Lunatic Aivlum at Beauport— Lorette — The Chaudiere 
 — Lake St. Charles— Ste. Anne. 
 
 The stranger, on arriving in Quebec, will take care 
 to visit first the Citadel ; then Gap Rouge, taking by 
 the way, a glimpse of the old French fortifications, 
 outside of the citadel glacis, a glance at the shipping 
 from the brink of the precipice ; examine one of the 
 Martello towers on the left as he passes, then wander 
 down to Bonner's field and there see the spot where 
 Wolfe died, and the monument raised to commemorate 
 the circumstance and place ; see the well, not far dis- 
 tant, from which he last drank, enter Marchmont, the 
 residence of John Gilmour, Esquire, on the site of the 
 redoubt that guarded the pass by which Wolfe's army 
 ascended the Plains of Abraham, formerly the pro- 
 perty of Major General Sir John Harvey, who served 
 as Adjutant General of the Forces during the American 
 war; see Spencer Wood, the residence of the Governor 
 General ; Woodfield, the seat of James Gibb, Esquire ; 
 
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84 
 
 THE CEMETERY. 
 
 Ic 
 
 r 
 
 and then stroll through one of the most picturesque, 
 as it is one of the most extensive cemeteries in the 
 world, " Mount Hermon," laid out by an American 
 gentleman— Major Douglas— 32 acres in extent, and com- 
 manding at every turn of its paths a distinct and mag- 
 nihcent view. In this " City of Silence " lies the bones 
 of the once celebrated John Wilson, the Scottish 
 vocalist, and the Reverend Daniel Wilkie, LL.D., one 
 of the ablest preceptors of youth this country has ever 
 known, and to whom monuments have been erected 
 by subscription. 
 
 At Point a Pizeau a road leads down to Sillery 
 Gove, where the massacre occurred. Near by, is an 
 old stone house, formerly occupied by the heroine of 
 " Emily Montague," near which are the ruins of v/hat 
 was once a large stone chapel. Opposite the cemetery — 
 we had almost forgotten to mention it — there is a 
 church of the Church of England, built of stone, ana 
 of rather an agreeable exterior. It was consecrated in 
 1856, by His Lordship the Bishop of Frederickton. A 
 mile beyond, is the villa of Kilgrastin, formerly the 
 property of the Rev. Dr. Mills, chaplain to the garrison. 
 Let the ride then be continued towards the church of 
 St. Foy, from which may be obtained one of the most 
 beautiful panoramic landscape views anywhere to be 
 met v/ith. At a glance may be seen the villages of 
 Ancienne Lorette, Indian LoreLte, Gharlesbourg, Beau- 
 port and the Island of Orleans, with the river St. 
 Charles, meandering through a fertile valley, whose 
 sides rise gradually to the wood-covered mountains. 
 As the town is approached, the General Hospital and 
 the Marine Hospital will come into view. Charlevoix 
 considered the first mentioned as the finest house in 
 Canada, and one that would bo no disparagement to 
 
MARINE HOSPITAL. 
 
 8.1 
 
 the largest house in France. One hundred thousand 
 crowns were expended by M. da St. Vallier, Bishop of 
 of Quebec, wlio bought the ground on which it stands 
 from tli9 RecoUet Fathers, on the building, furniture 
 and foundations. Tlie Marine Hospital was erected 
 lor the reception of sailors and others landin- in 
 Quebec, afflicted with disease. It stands upon a bend 
 of the river St. Charles, near where Jacques Gartie.' 
 wintered in 1535, and held conversatio.i with Don- 
 nacana, the Indian Lord of Canada. The foundation 
 stone was laid by Lord Ay liner, in 1832, and the 
 building which cost ;e-23,0()0, or $92,000, was opened 
 HI I8d4. A wing has since been added, and the struc- 
 ture is one of tlio most admirably situated-except in 
 m a sanitary point of view-andone of the most hand- 
 some of the many public edifices in the city. The 
 exterior is of the Ionic order of architecture, the pro- 
 portions being taken from the Temple of the Muse« 
 near Athens. It contains catholic and protestant 
 chapels, and it contains apartments for the officiating 
 clergymen, the matron, steward and nurses, and wards 
 for about G20 patients besides having kitchen, store 
 rooms and baths. There is a wide entrance hall, a 
 number of examining rooms for the use of the pln4i. 
 cians ; an operating theatre, and a museum ; and 
 ample promenade grounds encircled by a stone wall 
 and iron railing, for convalescents. The entire pre- ■ 
 mises contains an area of six acres. 
 . The resident surgeon is Dr. Roi. 
 
 The institution is supported by a tax of one penny 
 a ton levied on each vessel arriving from sea, and a 
 proportion of the tax upon emigration. 
 
 After this ride, the excursionist will do well to take 
 a walk on Durham Terrace, greatly improved and - 
 
86 
 
 THE «GHIEN DOR.)) 
 
 c: 
 
 Ic 
 
 r 
 
 enlarged by the late Honorable Mr. Justice Ghabot, 
 when that gentleman held the situation oi Chief 
 Commissioner of Public Works. The nature of the 
 prospect may be gathered from the fact that the « plat- 
 form » stands on the side of what formerlv was the 
 Chateau St. Louis, destroyed by fire in 1834, and for 
 centuries the residence of the Governors ol Canada. 
 
 Close to this walk is the « Chien d'Or, » or Golden 
 Dog, over the door of the Post Office, immediately 
 above the steps leading from the Upper to the Lower 
 Town. It is the representation of a dog in relievo, 
 gnawing a bone, under which are the following 
 lines : — 
 
 " Je svis vn chien qvi ronge mon os 
 En lo rongeant, je prends mon repos, 
 Vn jovr viendra qvi A'est pas encote venv, 
 Ov je mordrai celvi qvi jn'aVi'a mordv." 
 
 It is said that this house was built by a Mr. Philbert, 
 who had formerly been a merchant in Bordeaux, and 
 who lived in Quebec in 1712 when Bigot was Inten- 
 dant. Bigot was exceedingly avaricious, and made 
 exorbitant drafts on the Treasurv of his native country, 
 until one of the Queens of France began to suspect 
 that the walls of Quebec were being not indirectly but 
 directly built of gold. The figure of the dog and the 
 inscription were aimed by Philbert at Bigot, and so 
 exasperated liim that, it is said, he procured a person 
 to assassinate Philbert. At all events, an officer of the 
 garrson, stabbed the author of the lampoon as he was 
 in the act of descending the Lower Town steps, who 
 was pursued by Philbert's brother to Pondicherry in the 
 East Indies, and there slain in turn. This story the 
 late Mr. Christie, in a note to his history of Canada, 
 asserts to be fabulous on the authority of Mr. Viger 
 who had investigated the matter. 
 
 s 
 
CHURCHES. 
 
 87 
 
 once 
 
 To the west of Hope Gate, is the building 
 occupied by Montcalm. 
 
 CHURCHES. 
 
 There are now in Quebec five churches of the 
 Church of England, the Cathedral Church near the 
 Place d'Armcs, opposite Durham Terrace ; Trinity 
 Chapel in St. Stanislas Street, near Hie Artillery Bar- 
 racks ; St. Malhev:s Chapel, at the Burying Ground, 
 St. John Street, suburbs ; St. Peter's Church, in Vallier 
 Street, St. Roch ; and the Mariner's Church, Champlain 
 Street ; one in St. Anne Street, in connection with the 
 Church of Scotland, and Chalmer's, or the Free Church, 
 in Ursule Street ; one Methodist Church in St. Sta' 
 nislas Street, near the gaol; one Congregational 
 Church ia Palace Street ; one Baptist Church in St. 
 Helen Street; one Jewish Synagogue in Garden 
 Street ; and about 10 Roman Catholic Churches ; the 
 Parish Church or Cathedral in the Market Place, 
 Upper Town ; the Seminary Chapel, the Ursuline 
 Chapel, the Hotel Dieu Chapel, St. Patrick's Church ; 
 the Church in the Lower Town of Notre Dame des 
 Victoires ; the Ch jrch in St. Roch Suburbs, the Church 
 at Boisseauville ; the Congregational Church, Espla- 
 nade ; and the Church at the Cholera Burying Ground. 
 
 THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF THE CHURCH OF 
 
 ENGLAND. 
 
 This edifice is one oi the most perfect and pleasing 
 specimens of Canadian architecture. Although not 
 much ornamented, the keeping is correct. Buift upon 
 an elevated spot, the steeple, which is of considerable 
 height, being covered with tin, is a very consijicuous 
 mark, and one of the objects most prominent in eveiy 
 ^,^!^H"^^^® ^^6^^ of the city. The giand entrance is on 
 
c 
 
 Ic 
 
 88 
 
 CHURCHES. 
 
 the west ; and the interior is neat and commodious, 
 having extensive galleries on the front and sides. It 
 is furnished with a powerful organ of sweet and melo- 
 dious tune. • 
 
 To an ohserver, the whole situation appears light 
 and graceful, which is increased hy the glittering roof 
 and spire. The walls are of grey sandstone. In 
 length, it extends forty-five yards, by twenty-five 
 yards in breadth ; including a considerable interstice 
 for the altar, and a capacious vestibule. The chief 
 front, with a spacious area is in Garden Street. 
 
 The church was consecrated in 1804. The commu- 
 nion plate which is very magnificent, was presented 
 by George III, as well as the books for divine service 
 and the altar clotli. Within the altar, beneath which 
 are the remains of the Duke of Richmond, a former 
 Governor General who died of hydrophobia, are two 
 marble monuments, one to the late Dr. Mountain, first 
 Bishop of Quebec, and the other to the Honorable and 
 Right Reverend Dr. Stewart, his successor. There are 
 besides a few other handsome monuments around the 
 church, 
 
 The Rectory to which a small chapel is attached is 
 within the enclosure, and, formerly occupied by 
 His Lordship the Bishop of Quebec, a man of great 
 lei,rniiig and of exemplary piety, is now occupied by 
 the Rector of Quebec, the Rev. Mr. Housman. 
 
 Morning service begins at half-past ten o'clock, as 
 well in this as in all the other churches of the Church 
 of England in Quebec. , / , , . _ 
 
 THE CHURCH OF SCOTLAND. 
 
 '■k«- 
 
 ;*>• 
 
 The pulpit of this church is at present occupied 
 by one of the most learned, talented, and eloquent 
 
 % 
 
CHUnCHES. 
 
 89 
 
 It 
 
 preachers of the Gospel in this city, the Reverend 
 John Goolt, D. D. A Church of Scotland has existed 
 in Quebec since 1759 ; but it was not until the sum 
 of £1,547 having been subscribed, a church was built 
 in St. Anne street, and set apart fur the ordinances of 
 christian worship on the 30th November, 1810, by 
 the late Reverend Dr. Spark, who was succeeded by 
 the late Dr. Harkness. It accommodates about 1500 
 sitters. In 1821, it was enlarged. 
 
 chalmer's, or the free church. 
 This is a very beautiful specimen of church archi 
 tecture, built in 1852, and situated in St. Ursule street. 
 It was the scene of the Gavazzi riot. The pulpit is at 
 present ably filled by the pious and learned Reverend 
 William Clark. The church accommodates about 
 900 sitters. 
 
 In the Presbyterian Churches, and indeed in all 
 protestant churches, the church of England excepted, 
 service begins simultaneously. 
 
 THE WESLEYAN CHURCH 
 
 Is a very imposing and large edifice of cut stone, with 
 gothic pinnacles in St. Stanislas street, adjoining the 
 jail. The Wesleyan Methodic ts had a chapel formerly 
 in St. Anne street, and one in the Lower Town for the 
 edification of seamen, the former being erected in 
 1816, but it was not until 1850 that means were found 
 to build the present fine building, and procure an 
 excellent organ with which to praise the Lord of Hoots! 
 It accommodates over 1600 people, and the pulpit is at 
 present filled by the Reverend Mr. Young. 
 
 , ,. CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH. '- 
 
 =. This is a neat, but externally unpretending building 
 in Palace street, nearly opposite Russell's Hotel. In- 
 
90 
 
 CHURCHES. 
 
 C 
 
 Ic 
 
 r 
 
 ternally, it has been comfortably furnished after the 
 manner of the New York churches, and the command- 
 ments and texts of Scripture are painted on the walls. 
 
 BAPTIST CHURCH. 
 
 This church is situated at the upper gate leading to 
 the barracks of the Royal Artillery, near St. John's 
 Gate. It was erected iu 1854 by an earnest but not 
 by any means a wealthy ox numerous Congregation. 
 The pulpit is, however, most respectably filled by a 
 scholar and sincere christian, as he is a pleasing and 
 instructive preacher. — the Rev. David Marsh. 
 
 ST. Patrick's church. 
 
 The Irish Catholics of Quebec, with the aid of their 
 Protestant follow citizens built the Church which is 
 situated in St. Helen street, in 1832. It was dedicated 
 in 1833, amid the hearty rejoicings and the thanks- 
 givings of a generous people. 
 
 It is a fine substantial building, and originally 
 covered an area of 136 by (52 feet ; but has been twice 
 enlarged since then. The Congregation have very 
 recently erected a large and externally handsome 
 Presbytery or Parsonage house for their parish priests, 
 in St. Stanislas street. 
 
 THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL. . 
 
 The largest and internally the most magnificent of 
 
 all the Cliurches in the city, is that which stands in 
 
 the Upper Town Market Place, 216 feet long and about 
 
 180 broad, called «The Church of the Immaculate 
 
 Conception,)) when consecrated by the first Bishop of 
 
 Quebec in 1666. It is divided into a nave and two 
 
 aisles. At the upper end is the grand altar ; and in 
 
 the side aisles are four chapels dedicated to different 
 saints. ^ ^j. .-:.^:-,.i. -i-^^^.,r.^.-~^---.- --^---^.--^ 
 
 I 
 
 li"">: -M 
 
 ;;,«M •■>-<,.' 
 
PAINTINGS. 
 
 91 
 
 During the siege of Quebec in 1759, this Gliurcli -vas 
 set on fire by shells, which were discliarged from the 
 batteries on Point Levi, and all its Paintings and other 
 ornaments were consumed, except the first mentioned 
 in the following catalogue, but which was, when found 
 among the ruins, so essentially injured, tliat the labor 
 of the artist was found necessary to restore the parts 
 that have been mutilated :— 
 
 1. The Altar piece, pourtraying*th3 Conception. 
 
 2. On the north is a representation of Paul, in his estatic 
 
 vision— by Carlo Maratti. 
 0. On the opposite wall, is a design— The Saviour ministered 
 unto by angels — by Restoul. 
 
 4. The painting above the altar in the south nave, is a copy 
 
 of the middle painting over the altar of the Seminary 
 Chapel, 
 
 5. On the pillar above the pulpit is a delineation of tho 
 
 Redeemer on the Cross— by Vandyke. 
 
 6. On the opposite pillar is— The Nativity of Christ. 
 
 7. The Saviour under the contumelious outrages of the sol- 
 
 diers — by Flavet. 
 
 8. The day of Pentecost— by Vignon. 
 
 9. The Holy family— by Blanohon. . 'fn 
 
 Tliere are, besides, other paintings of less interest 
 and value. :; • ; 
 
 All the catholic churches deserve a visit from the 
 intelligent stranger, but the painter or connoisseur 
 in paintings, except in the Seminary and Hotel Dieu 
 Chapels, will find little to interest him elsewhere than 
 in the Cathedral, the other churches of Quebec in 
 which there was anything old having unfortunately 
 been also purified by fire. ' 
 
 '* " THE UNIVERSITY OF LAVAL. ' ' '' 
 
 This institution named after its founder, was raised 
 from the status of a seminary to that of a University 
 
92 
 
 LAVAL. 
 
 C 
 
 Ic 
 
 r 
 
 ill 18G4 by Queen Victoria. It adjoins the Seminary, 
 and has a largo garden in front, and a spacions play 
 ground in the roar or town side of the Seminary. 
 Collegiate buildings are in course of erection on a very 
 magnilicont scale, the medical and other colleges being 
 finished. Formerly, the institution was divided into 
 two branches, distinguished as the <( Grand Seminaire » 
 and the Petit Seminaire. The Grand Seminaire is now 
 the Collegiate Institutioa, in which Latin, French, 
 Mathematics, Bollos-Lettrcs, Moral Philosophy, Natural 
 Philosophy, Astronomy, Chemistry, Drawing, Ana- 
 tomy, Physiology, and a host of other «ophies») and 
 « elegies » are taught. The Archbishop used to reside 
 in the Seminary, as did Laval himself for the last 
 twenty years of his earthly existence; but since then, 
 a new palace has been raised and His Grace and his 
 coadjutor enjoy themselves in a palatial edifice in rear 
 of the Cathedral, built in 1849, which has also accom- 
 modations for upwards of 100 clergymen, and contains 
 besides the portraits of some dozen (baker's or other- 
 wise) of his predecessor's portraits, the best collection 
 of paintings, by eminent painters, to be found in the 
 countrv. 
 
 But to return to the Seminary. It was founded by 
 Monseigneur do Laval de Montmorency, in 163G, during 
 whose lifetime the buildings were twice burned. 
 Originally intended only for the education of catholic 
 clergymen, it now educates all who are sent to it, 
 even in the higher branches of education, for the very 
 moderate sum of £12 10s. a year if boarded, and for 
 only 5s. or 10s. if not. 
 
 The teachers, who are ecclesiastics, receive no re- 
 muneration for their services ; but the medical and 
 other professors are of course paid. " . k -, ,,. > ,^ ,;, 
 
 J 
 
! 
 
 WATER WORKS, &C, 93 
 
 Tho library of tliis institution contains 9,000 volumes 
 and IS, It IS needless to say, very interesting. ' 
 
 In the museum there is a valuable collection of 
 philosophical inst-uments, besides fossils, minerals 
 Indian curiosities, kc. ' 
 
 WATER WORKS. 
 
 Quebec is amply supplied with good water for all 
 purposes, from the Lake St. Charles, above the cata- 
 ract at Lorette, through an 18 inch iron pipe. The 
 capacious reservoir, which is situated about a mile 
 above tJie Indian village, merits inspection. 
 
 The drainage of the town is excellent, and indeed 
 some hundreds of thousands of pounds have, since 
 1854, been expended on water and sewerage. 
 
 A healthier city is not now to be found on the whole 
 continent of America. 
 
 THE MUSIC HALL. 
 
 This is a very large and handsome stone l)uilding, 
 used as a theatre, a concert room, or ball I'oom, and 
 situated in St. Lewis street. After the destruction of 
 tlie Parliament buildings, in 1854, it was used as the 
 place of meeting for the Legislative Assembly, and the 
 voice of William Lyon Mackenzie has been reverbe- 
 rated against its walls, as well as the rather sweeter 
 voice of Madame Anna Bishop and the " Black Swan." 
 
 THE COURT HOUSE 
 
 Stands upon the ground on which the RecoUets' 
 church partly stood, in St. Lewis street. 
 
 It is a plain and not too commodious a building for 
 the purpose intended, which is therein to bring all 
 civil and criminal suits of the district. Its length is 
 forty-five yards, and its breadth as many feet ; but it 
 
91 
 
 6CH00LS. 
 
 C 
 f 
 
 was added to in 1853, and in tho Court of Appeals 
 room sat the Legislative Council of Upper House of 
 Parliament. 
 
 PAHLIAMENT HOUSE. 
 
 A large new building on the site of the palace of the 
 French Bishop, stands immediately inside of Prescott 
 Gate. Within these walls the whole collective v/isdom 
 of the province is now assembled. The walls, however, 
 are only brick, tho building being erected by a gentle- 
 man from Upper Canada, altogether insensible, it 
 would seem, to the beauty of tlie site. When the 
 Government removes to Ottawa it is to be used as a 
 Post Ofjce. 
 
 EDUCATIONAL AND LITERARY INSTITUTIONS. 
 
 HIGH SCHOOL — MORRIN COLLEGE. 
 
 One of the best educational institutions in Canada 
 is the High School of Quebec. It owes its origin to 
 the Reverend Dr. Cook of St. Andrew's Church, who 
 has been the Chairman of the Directors since its com- 
 mencement, and has taken a warm and active interest 
 in whatever could conduce to its elTiciency and suc- 
 cess. We must not omit to mention Morrin College, 
 in St. Lewis street, a bequest from Dr. Morrin, 
 formerly Mayor of Quebec, and of which the very 
 Reverend John Cook, D.D., is principal. Morrin Col- 
 lege is affiliated with McGill College, Montreal. 
 
 The first Rector of the High School, was the late 
 Reverend Daniel Wilkie, L.L. D., who died in 1852, 
 and the present Rector is the Reverend Edwin Hatch, 
 an excellent classical scholar, and an earnest and per- 
 severing teacher. The other teachers are Mr. Wilkie, 
 nephew of the former Rector, an able and attentive 
 teacher and well-informed man ; the Revere...a John 
 
LITET\,VIIY AND HISTORICAL SOCIETY. 
 
 95 
 
 Thompson, teacher of mathematics ; W. A. G. L. Frew, 
 classical master ; Mr. Millar, teacher of French and 
 German ; and W. Doarnally, drill master. 
 
 There are altogether 19 schools, public and private, 
 boys and girls. 
 
 The first school in Canada was kept by Father 
 Lejcune, at Quebec, in 1032. The pupils were any- 
 thing but numerous, when tlie establishment was first 
 opened. There was only a Negro lad and an Indian 
 boy to be taught the rudiments of French, and to be 
 initiated in the art of putting language upon paper 
 with the pen. Lejeuu'^ was not, liowever, disheartened 
 by the unpromising aspect of a first attempt in a new 
 world to instruct the ignorant. On the contrary, he 
 wrote to some friends in France, concerning liis 
 school, in very hopeful terms. A chair in Du Bac at 
 Paris, would not have tempted him to have relin- 
 quished his project of imparting tlie most elementary 
 knowledge to the most primitive child of nature. He 
 was enthusiastic and he succeeded. Next year he had 
 twenty pupils, and his school was the foundation of 
 the famous Jesuits' College, a school of learning, 
 which, when suppressed in 177G, and the buildings 
 converted into soldiers' barracks, was numerously 
 attended, in which the course of study had been 
 similar to that of the college of Louis-le-Grand, in 
 Paris, and which had produced several men of note. 
 
 LITERARY AND HISTORICAL SOCIETY. 
 
 This Society was founded by Lord Dalhousie in 
 1824, and united in 1829 to that for the promotion of 
 Arts and Sciences, contained the most valuable 
 ornithological, mineralogical and botanical specimens 
 of any institution in the province, and has a most 
 
96 
 
 LIBRARIES. — MONTMORENCI. 
 
 C 
 
 c 
 
 I Hi", 
 
 JK 
 
 excellent library ; but it suffered loss during the fire 
 which consumed tho late Parliament Building, in 
 which the Museum and Uie Library were in 1854, 
 and it again suffered from fire in 1862, when many 
 valuable books and manuscript were lost. 
 
 The Library, Museum, &c., are now in the Masonic 
 Hall, opposite the St. Lewis Hotel, corner of Garden 
 and St. Lewis streets. 
 
 There is an exceedingly fine library in the posses- 
 sion of the '' Quebec, Library Association," founded so 
 early as 1779, by Genertll Haldimand, and which now 
 contains at least six thousand volumes. Tne rooms 
 are in St. Anne street, opposite the Church of England 
 Cathedral. 
 
 If all these places are visited in one day, the stranger, 
 0"^ the next, may visit the following places in the 
 vicinity of Quebec ; or as many of them as he conve- 
 niently can: • ■, 
 
 MONTMORENCI. _, 
 
 The justly celebrated Falls of Montmorenci consti- 
 tute an object of inspection with every visitor of 
 Quebec. In clear weather, much enjoyment is realized 
 from the ride, as an opportunity is afforded to examine 
 the soil, modes of agriculture and habits of life of the 
 Canadian farmers ; and also of viewing Quebec and its 
 environs, in a novel aspect. It is generally conceded 
 that the Fall? when the river is full, is the mo:t mag- 
 nificent object in the Province — being replete with 
 beauty and sublime grandeur. The breadth of the 
 stream at the brink is about twenty-five yards, and the 
 velocity of the water in its descent is increased by a 
 continual declivity from some distance above. With 
 the exception of a large rock near the middle of the 
 
NATURAL STEPS. 
 
 97 
 
 bed, the whole is one compact sheet of foam, which is 
 discharged, almost perpendicularly, at the def.th of 
 nearly eighty yards, into a reservoir among tlic rocks 
 below. 
 
 The prodigious depth of their descent, the brightness 
 and volubility of their course, the swiftness of move- 
 ment from the basin swelling with incessant agitation 
 from the weight of the dashing waters, forcibly rivet 
 the attention, and highly elevate the mind of the spec- 
 tator. From the same spot there is a lucid and beau- 
 teous jjrospect of Quebec, with its encircling scenery ; 
 and with an ordinary magnifying glass, the observer 
 can discern all the prominent objects — the steeples, 
 towers, fortifi-cations, principal edifnies, the shipping, 
 the course of the St. Lawrence until it is lost among 
 tlie hills, Point Levi and its vicinity — the north side of 
 the Island of Orleans, the point of Ange Gardien and 
 the shores of the river as far as Gap Tourment. Some 
 vestages of General Wolfe's hattery still remain. See 
 Duncanson's picture. 
 
 At a considerable distance above the Falls, the 
 channel of the river is contracted between high ver- 
 tical rocks, and the water rushes with proportionate 
 velocity. In one part, at about five miles from the 
 bridge, cascades of three and four yards in depth are 
 adjacent to two fine geological curiosities, familiarly 
 denominated the "Natural Steps,» which appear to have 
 been formed by the attrition of the stream occasioned by 
 the melting of the snows, and ihe augm.ented rapidity 
 of the flood Many of these steps are so regular, that 
 they almost develope the process of human art. The 
 perpendicular attitude of the rocks on the east side — 
 the tree crowned summit, the uniformity of appearance, 
 resembling an ancient castle wall in ruins, the preci- 
 
98 
 
 DEAUPORT. 
 
 C 
 
 Ic 
 
 f 
 
 fclly. 
 
 »'"lll 
 
 pices on the western bank, and the foaming noisy'cur- 
 rent pourtray a romantic \Vildness which is very attrac- 
 tive. Observers are amply remunerated for their walk, 
 as conjoined with this interesting object, they witness 
 the continuous descent and the accelerating force and 
 celerity with which the river is propelled to the point 
 whence it is precipitated into the St. Lawrence. 
 
 The Mansion House, which is situated close to the 
 Fall — exactly over which an elegant suspension bridge, 
 at the height of some 80 or 90 feet, hung like a spider's 
 •web, but the towers of which now only remain, as it 
 gave way in the spring of 1856, when a man and a 
 woman in a cart, and a boy walking, were upon it, 
 who were all precipitated into the cauldron — was built 
 by General Haldimand, the last Governor of the Pro- 
 vince of Quebec. It was afterwards occupied by His 
 Royal Highness, Prince Edward Duke of Kent, the 
 father of the Queen, and the room in which he slept 
 can yet be pointed out. The house is at present in the 
 possession of G. B. Hall, Esquire, the proprietor of the 
 extensive saw mills at the foot of the Falls. 
 
 THE BEALPORT ASYLUM FOR THE INSANE. 
 
 This Asylum, lighted by gas, and having a gas cook- 
 ing apparatus, contained in 1859, 80 male nnd 73 
 female patients. The following notice of it is from 
 Warburton's « Hochelaga, or England in the New 
 World. )) 
 
 The Lunatic Asylum for Lower Canada has been 
 for some time established at Beauport, five miles from, 
 Quebec. Three eminent medical men of the city, 
 have undertaken it, under charter from the Provin- 
 cial Government, whicii makes an annual allowance 
 for the support of the public patients. 
 
LORETTE. 
 
 99 
 
 Tlie establishment consists of a large house occupied 
 by the able Superintendent and his family, where 
 as a reward for good conduct some of the convales- 
 cents are occasionally admitted. Behind this is a 
 range of buildings forming two sides of a square, the 
 remaining enclosure of the space being made with 
 high palings. These structures stand in a command- 
 ing situation, with a beautiful view of Quebec, and 
 the broad basin of the river. 
 
 A farm of a hundred and sixty acres is attached 
 to them. 
 
 The system of this excellent institution is founded 
 on kindness. No force or coertion of any kind is 
 employed ; the patients are allowed to mix freely, 
 work, or pursue whatever may be the bent of their 
 inclinations. They dine together at a well supplied 
 table. On one side of the dining hall are the apart- 
 ments of the female patients, on the other those of 
 the males. They each consist of a large well ventilated 
 room, scrupulously clean, with a number of sleeping 
 wai'ds off it J over head is also a large sleeping apart- 
 ment. • , 
 
 LORETTE. 
 
 One of the most agreeable excursions in the vicinity 
 of Quebec, is that to the Indian village and Lake 
 St. Charles. The driver should be directed to change 
 his route on the return, so as to pass by the eastern 
 bank of the river, and thus the varying scenery is 
 partially changed. 
 
 After a considerable ascent, at four miles distance 
 from Quebec, the traveller arrives at Charlesbourg, a 
 very conspicuous village, comprising about 90 houses, 
 thence the western route conducts to Lorettc, and 
 
100 
 
 THE CHAUDIERE. 
 
 C 
 
 Ic 
 
 f 
 
 the easterly course to Lake Beauport, the ride to wliich 
 is amply compensated by the diversified landscape. 
 
 The Indian village is about eight miles from the 
 city, built upon an elevated situation, whence there 
 is an extensively vaj'ied and agreeable landscape, in 
 many points similar to that from Gape Diamond, but 
 also including some attractive novelties of outline. 
 It exhibits a bold and beautiful view of Quebec and 
 its suburbs, and in the extent, it is bounded solely 
 by the distant southern mountains. 
 
 At this village is a charming view of the river St. 
 Charles, tumbling and foaming over the rocks and 
 ledges to a great depth, near which is a Paper Mill, 
 &c. The rugged and perpendicularly elevated cliffs, 
 in connection with the impetuous rush of the waters, 
 although circumscribed in extent, and therefore 
 affording no expanded prospect in the immediate front, 
 yet, as seen from the Saw Mills, and from the bank 
 and bridge at the head of the dell, in its different posi- 
 tions and aspects, constitute an object, which, when 
 contrasted with the more majestic cataracts of Mont- 
 morenci, and the Ghaudiere, or recollected in combi- 
 nation with them, furnishes in memorial, an addition 
 to the varieties, which those stupendous natural curio- 
 sities embody. 
 
 A poetic observer standing on the margin of the 
 river near the Falls, might easily transmute the Gre- 
 cian imagery chanted by the Roman into actual scene 
 before him ; and can almost fancy without any pecu- 
 liar and visionary flights of the imagination, that he 
 beholds around him the principal and most solitary 
 dell of the ancient immortalized Tempe. 
 
m 
 
 THE TUBULAR BniDOE, 
 
 101 
 
 *• Est nemus Huemoniae prcprupta undiquG claucUt .- 
 " Silva ; vocant Tempo. Per qmv: Peneus ab iiuo , 
 " Effusus Pindo, spumosis volvitur uiidia 
 . " Dejectuqiie, gravi tenues agitantia fumos, 
 " Nubila, conducit summasque aspergino sylvas 
 " Inpluit ; et sonitu plusquam vicina facigat." . 
 
 The river at the Cascade is much compressed, being 
 only about 400 feet across ; and the depth in the Pot, 
 as it is usually termed, is nearly 45 yards. Many rocks 
 divide the stream, precisely at the Fall, into three chief 
 currents, of which the westerly is the largest— these 
 partially re-unite before their broken and agitated 
 wav3s are received into the basin, where each dashing 
 against the other maintains a turbulent whirpool. The 
 form of the rock forces a part of the waters into an 
 oblique direction, advancing them beyond the line of 
 the precipice, while the cavities of the rocks increase 
 the foaming fury of the revolving waters in their des- 
 cent, displaying globular figures of brilliant whiteness, 
 while the ascending spray developesallthe varietie'^>of 
 the colored cloudy arch, and enlivens the beauty of 
 the landscape. The wild diversity of rocks, the foliage 
 of the overhanging woods, the rapid motion, the 
 cJDfuIgent brightness, and the deeply solemn sound of 
 the cataracts, all combine to present a rich assemblage 
 of objects highly attractive, especially when the visitor 
 emerging from the wood, is instantaneously surprised 
 by the dehghtful scene. Below, the view is greatly 
 changed, and Falls produce an additionally strong and 
 vivid impression. 
 
 The railway tubular bridge, about a mile above the 
 Falls, is a very fine one, and worth inspection. ^ 
 
 LAKE ST. CHARLES. r 
 
 The distance from Lorette to the Lake h nearly six 
 
102 
 
 LAKE ST. CHARLES 
 
 CSIl 
 
 Ic 
 
 r 
 
 miles, and speedily after leaving the villages the grand 
 prospect and the traces of civilization and human exis- 
 tence become comparatively « faint, and few and far 
 between.)) On the return from the Lake, the effect is 
 instantaneous. Emerging at once by the turn of the 
 hill, from deep solitude and a compact forest, into all 
 the expanse of the extended variegated landscape, 
 discernible at the foot of the exterior mountain, the 
 traveller is enraptured with a display of aboriginal and 
 cultivated drapery, to which memory ever delights to 
 recur. , - . 
 
 The Lake is an enchanting picture ; anrl those who 
 have beheld some of the more renowned European 
 inland waters, have asserted, that it developes imagery, 
 little inferior in natural beauty and creative decoration 
 to those reservoirs which history and poetry have 
 conseoi'ated to perennial remembrance. Upon a calm 
 summer's day, when in the season the forest displays 
 its numberless lights and shades, and the mountain, 
 wood and waters all repose in undisturbed calmness, 
 the quietude of the scene exactly harmonizes with the ' 
 placidness of a good conscience. If the beholder there 
 recalled Henry Kirk White to his memory, he might 
 justly and feelingly soliloquize in the strains of the 
 lamented bard : 
 
 " And oh! how sweet this scene o'erliung with woQd, 
 " That winds the margin of the solemn flood? ^ ■"" 
 " AVliat rm-al objects steal upon the sight — a, *-lf,' - 
 
 " What varied views prolong the calm delight! '-5'jp,i"''' ' 
 " Above, below, where'er I turn my eyes, ' ■'* t>!(«r.' 
 
 ■ ' " Rocks, waters, woods, in grand succession rise!'' vifT 
 
 In outhne. Lake St. Charles is very irregular — it is 
 rather more than four miles in length ; but its greatest 
 breadth does not exceed one mile : and it is subdivided 
 
ST. ANXE. 
 
 103 
 
 lie 
 
 I)} a narrow slrait, into nearly equal portions. Embo- 
 somed between elevated hills, its shores are clothed 
 with that density of wood and diversified foliage, which 
 are so universal in North America ; and thepeal\sand 
 tops of some of the more distant northern mountains 
 are singularly varied in their configurations, and from. 
 their height are exhibited in a very imposing aspect. 
 The points of land which occasionally stretch into the 
 lake are covered with shrubs and a species of trees ; 
 while abrupt rocky bluffs and smaU swampy bays 
 alternately present to the amateur and man of science 
 a rich display of ornament, and materials for geological 
 and botanical research. 
 
 ST. ANNE. 
 
 V'i^om Montmorenci, the ride proceeds to Chateau 
 Richer, or the ruins of a Franciscan Monastery, ])uilt 
 about one hundred and thirty years since. 
 
 About two miles from Chateau Richer, the visitor 
 should halt, and walk a short distance to the Sank i\ la 
 Puce, a small stream descending through a mountainous 
 and woody country, comprises some very romantic 
 falls, where the stream is precipitated in three declivities 
 in succession, and the banks are rich in profusion of 
 sylvan ornaments, and especially when the autumnal 
 foliage displays its multiplied variety of beauteous 
 tints. 
 
 Thence the route leads to Ste. Anne ; and two miles 
 beyond the village, at twenty-eight miles distance 
 from Quebec, the traveller proceeds to visit those 
 interesting Falls. The road ascends a part of the way 
 up the moimtain — there are seen splendid prospects of 
 Quebec and the adjacent country— but without a glass, 
 from the distance, the scenery in the back ground is 
 
I 
 
 lOi, 
 
 THE PRIESTS FAR if. 
 
 Cli 
 
 rallier indistinct. Having attained a level, a rough 
 paMi for nearly a mile and a half conducts the visitor, 
 after a sudden descent into a most solitary vale of rocks 
 and trees, almost a natural grotto, through the centre 
 of which the stream rushes until it escapes by a narrow 
 channel hotween the rocks, and continues roaring and 
 tumbling with augmenting velocity. From below, 
 there is a striking view of the cataract, which, combined 
 with the natural widness and extraordinary features of 
 the scenery, baffle description ; the jjainter alone could 
 convey to the mind the representation with effect. 
 
 The scenery around the Priests' Farm, near Gape 
 Tourment, is very attractive, and the site of the Valley 
 and Falls of Fereole will compensate for the fatigue 
 experienced in descending to them. To complete the 
 excursion, the visitor should arrange, if possible, to 
 stand on Gap Tourment in the morning, there to behold 
 the sun emerging from the horizon. From this bold 
 bluff, nearly six hundred yards above the river St. 
 LawTcnce, to the east, soutli, and west is presented a 
 versified landscape, which includes every variety that 
 the painter can embody. — Mountain and valley, wild- 
 erness and cultivation, land and water, w^ith their 
 ai)purtenances and ornaments. 
 
 VK./.« ;.-\M'rJ 
 
 
 >-^: ■•(>:? ^^^Jsr^' i)t: 
 
 ■^iW^i-" r j^^sv* 
 
 
 
 ' ^mi- 
 
' K'- '' l'\ 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Pleasures of the Trip— Tlie St. Lawrence and the watering places— [slant! 
 of Orleans— Crane Island -Kamouraskn—Cacotina— Entrance of the 
 Sagiienay— Price & Co— Lake St. John— The Crops— Mode of 
 •'^'*^®'''"8^~'^^^*' Perikoba— Russell's Report of the Saguenay Country. 
 
 THE LOWER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 ' THE SAGUENAY. '• "" 
 
 To the mere pleasure seeker or the man of science 
 there can he nothing more refreshing and delightful, 
 nothing affording more food for reflection or scientific 
 observation, than a trip to that most wonderful of 
 rivers, the Saguenay. On the way thither, the scenery 
 of the Lower St. Lawrence is extraordinarily pic- 
 turesque. A broad expanse of water interspersed with 
 rugged soUtary islets, highly cultivated islands, and 
 islands covered with trees to the water's edge, hemmed 
 in by lofty and precipitous mountains, on the one 
 side, and by a continuous street of houses, relieved by 
 beautifully situated villages, the spires of whose tin- 
 covered churches glitter in the sunshine, cultivated 
 fields and lowing herds belaud, and the forest-clad 
 mountain range, which divides the waters flowing into 
 the St. John from those that flow into the St. Lawrence, 
 visible, in the distance, on the other, affords a prospect 
 so enchanting that were nothing else to be seen the 
 tourist would be well repaid for the inconsiderable 
 expenditure in time and money, wdilch the trip to the 
 lower St. Lawrence involves ; but when, in addition 
 
106 
 
 A LANDSCAPE. 
 
 
 gorge 
 sight 
 
 to all this the tourist suddenly passes from a landscape 
 unsurpassed for beauty into a region of priniitivo 
 grandeur, where art has done nothing and nature 
 everything — vvlien, at a single bound, civilisation is 
 left behind and nature stares him in the face, in naked 
 majesty — when he sees alps on alps arise — when he 
 lloats over unfathoma])lo depths, through a mountain 
 —the sublime entirely overwhelms the sense of 
 and fascinates the imagination. The change 
 produced upon the thinking part of man, in passing 
 from the broad St. Lawrence into the seemingly narrow 
 and awfully deep Saguenay, whose waters lave the 
 sides of the towering mountains, which almost shut 
 out the very light of heaven, and from thence again 
 into an ancient settlement, where the piety and zeal of 
 the Jesuit Fathers, ages ago, first planted the cross, 
 and gave Christianity to the Indians, is such as no pen 
 can paint nor tongue describe. 
 
 An American gentleman says : — « The greater part 
 « of American tourists make a great mistake in omit- 
 « ting the Saguenay River. The fare on board the 
 « boat is of excellent quality, and the berths large and 
 « comfortable.)) 
 
 Another gentleman says : — « Before I left Rochester, 
 « on an excursion through Lake Ontario, and down 
 « the St. Lawrence, I was advised not to let slip a 
 « favourable opportunity, if one should offer, after my 
 « arrival in Quebec, for milking a visit to the Saguenay, 
 « and looking for myself upon the bold, rugged, and 
 « very remarkable scenery along its rock-bound shores. 
 « Such an opportunity fortunately was not wanting ; 
 « and after I had spent five days in Quebec — days of 
 « great interest to me — visiting places most deserving 
 « attention in and about that wonderful city — famous 
 
THE ST, lAWIlENCK. 
 
 107 
 
 « ill the worlcVs liistory, about which I liad road, with 
 « tlirilliiii^ interest, wlien I was yet a boy, and of 
 « Wolfe climbing the heights of Abraliam, to flght and 
 a conquer, and die — ' The Gibraltar of the western 
 « continent,' and the capital of the Britisli American 
 « provinces ; learning that the Steamer Sagucnai/^ 
 « Captain Simard, would leave next morning on a 
 « pleasure excursion dowji the St. Lawrence and up 
 « the Saguenay, of which I had heard so much, and 
 « from which the good steamer received very appro- 
 « priately her name, 1 lost no time in making arrafige- 
 " ments for the trip, and through the courtesy of the 
 « agent John Laird, Esquire, and of Captain Simard, 
 « and others, both on the boat and elsewhere, I have 
 « made the trip with great comfort and pleasure.;/ 
 
 THE ST. LAWRENCE AND WATERING PLACES. 
 
 On the south side of the St. Lawrence, a ridge con; 
 mences nearly one hundred miles below Quebec, which 
 taking a south-west direction and passing opposite 
 that city, crosses the boundary line between Canada 
 and the United States, and continues until it meets 
 with the Hudson River. Beyond this ridge at about 
 the distance of 50 miles is another and a higher one, 
 commencing at Cape Rosier, the bold headland at the 
 mouth of the Saint-Lawrence, on the south, or in a 
 military point of view, left bank of the river, which 
 runs in a direction nearly parallel with the river, and 
 with the other chain, terminating upon the eastern 
 branch of the river Connecticut, after a course of 
 nearly four hundred miles. This is the ridge which 
 divides Canada from the United States, and the waters 
 that flow into the Atlantic from those that fall into the 
 St. Lawrence. -» ■ "yvt|:v rj-.vi-;;i?,;, 
 
108 
 
 TUn LAURENTINE MOUNTAINS. 
 
 c 
 
 f 
 
 Upon Iho uortliern slioros of tlic St. Lawrence, 
 Canada is bounded by the rugged steeps, called by Sir 
 W. Logan, the Laurentine mountains, running close 
 to the river, and forming its banks for upwards of 100 
 miles. The most remarkable of these heights is Cape 
 Tourment, situated only about twenty-five miles below 
 Quebec. This ridge from Gape TOurment, takes a west 
 south-west direction for 300 miles, terminating on the 
 river Ottawa, about 120 miles above its confluence 
 with the St. Lawrence. Beyond this ridge is another 
 and a higher, dividing the waters that flow into the 
 St. Lawrence from those that find their way to Hudson's 
 Bay. This last mentioned ridge is a hundred miles, 
 or thereabouts, north of Quebec. -' ' •« ^ 
 
 This is the wilderness region, which to the north- 
 w'ard meets the eye of the traveller as he leaves 
 Quebec for the Saguenay, bidding 
 
 " Adieu to cui-sed streets of staiivs." 
 
 The Falls of Montmorenci gradually appear, and 
 are distinctly visible in their usual ^ji'^ndeur, and the 
 voice of the mingling waters scarcely dies upon the 
 ear when leaving Quebec, with her imposing ci tadel 
 350 feet high, and tin covered cupolas and roofs, the 
 eye rests upon a new harbour to the right filled with 
 vessels of the largest tonnage, chiefly Uie property of 
 a single mercantile firm, distinguished for enterprise 
 and industry. The river about five miles below Que- 
 bec is divided into the north and south channels by 
 the Isle of Orleans, twcnty-o)ie miles long and five, 
 broad, celebrated for its apples, plums, and pears, and 
 originally called the Isle of Bacchus by Jacques Gar- 
 tier, on account of the number of wild vines which 
 in 1535 he saw upon it. This island has good roads, 
 contains live parishes, three behig on the south side, 
 
on LEANS. 
 
 lUl) 
 
 pick 
 
 [ads, - 
 side. 
 
 and lh(» cluuchos aiid tidy villages of St. Lanrenl aiul 
 St. Jean being closo to tlio shoro. Patrick's Ho'.<', 
 wliorc two mammoth vossols wore bnilt twiMilv or 
 more yoaro ago, is a well sholtcrcd cove, wlun'c outwanl 
 I'Onnd vessels como to anchor and await sailing orders, 
 and over which is the highest point of the islar.d. A 
 villa has now been laid out on the point of the island, 
 some neat residences erected, and a steamboat com- 
 munication maintained between the villa and Quebec. 
 On the north side of the highest point of land on the 
 island, the second of a chain of thirteen telegraphs, 
 erected during the last American war, and extending 
 from Quebec to Green Island opposite the mouth of the 
 Saguenay, remains. The electric wire has, however, 
 completely superseded the old mode of Hag and ball 
 telegraphing on land. :i ■< ' 
 
 The Island of Orleans forms part of the county of 
 Montmorenci, there being three counties on the north 
 shore of the St. Lawrence, the county of Quebec, the 
 county of Montmorenci, and the county of Saguenay, 
 and four on the south, Bellechasse, L'Islet, Kamou- 
 raska and Rimouski. . ;.< - \ 
 
 Both sides of the river are covered with houses of 
 stone, covered w^th tin ; and a parish church of no 
 inconsiderable architectural pretension presents itself 
 at every five miles. A few miles below Patrick's 
 Hole, on the south shore, are the churches of St. 
 Michel and St. Valier ; and immediately below the 
 island of Orleans, the river widens to eleven or twelve 
 miles, and numerous smaller islands exhibit them- 
 selves, while Gap Tourment towers eighteen hundred 
 feet into the sky. A few miles farther down — say 40 
 from Quebec — Gross Isle, the Quar-'^^^tine establish- 
 ment, appears, on which ten or twenty thousand immi- 
 f2 . 
 
110 
 
 ST. THOMAS. 
 
 !C 
 
 r 
 
 "Hit 
 
 ■'III I 
 
 grants lie buricl, and immediately opposite on the 
 southern bank, is the thriving village or rather lown 
 of St. Tliomas, one of the stations of the Grand Trunk 
 Railway in I^ower Canada. St. Thomas lies upon the 
 Riviere du Sud, which meanders through one of the 
 most beautiful, highly cultivated, and most productive 
 tracts of country in all Canada. Over the river is a 
 very pretty bridge. ■ ' =■ > s .y. ^ -: 
 
 Lower down, Crane and Little Goose Islands appear. 
 r*roperly speaking, tliere is but one island, as at low 
 water a connecting isthmus can be crossed in vehicles 
 or on foot. About 12 miles in length, they are exceed- 
 ingly well cultivated, and produce more than the inha- 
 bitants can consume, so that the value of the exports 
 exceeds that of tlie imports, and the people are not 
 only comfortable br t rich and happy. Tiiey are some 
 times called " McPherson's Island," after the Seigneur 
 or Seigneurs, whose residence is at the north-east end 
 of the islands. The church and village are on the north 
 side of the island. - -' ,..,,.... ,.: _,,,,,;. 
 
 The Ghrrch of L'Islet de St. Jean next appears on 
 the south shore. It is somewhat romantically situated, 
 being completely isolated at high water from the main- 
 land. The river is here thirteen miles in width, and 
 divided into north, middle, and south channels by a 
 series of islands, connected together by rocky or sandy 
 formations, and not unlike the rich vallev of the south 
 shore of the St. Lawrence, which is intersected by 
 ridges of graywacke and slate, not very high, while 
 the granitic mountains of the north there in seme 
 parts exceed an elevation of 2,000 feet above the river. 
 This circumstance, and that of shoals stretching out 
 from the southern shore, narrow the deep water and 
 forms what is called "The Traverse,'* in which the 
 
THE QUELLE. 
 
 Ill 
 
 iile 
 
 cme 
 
 iver. 
 
 out 
 
 and 
 
 the 
 
 tide runs at the rate of seven or eight knots, 55 miles 
 below Quebec. . . ,.. i ..i^n. ,'x. I> . • ^.- .^.r - . . 
 Goudres Island — we take what follows from the 
 Quebec Guide Book, published by Mr. Sinclair in 1851 
 — is the largest below Quebec except Orleans. It was 
 settled at a very early psriod, forms a parish by itself, 
 and has a church. It is tolerably fertile, but requires 
 its produce for its own population. It belongs to the 
 ecclesiastics of the Seminary of Quebec, to whom it 
 was granted in 1087. After passing the traverse, the 
 settlements on St. Paul's Bay on the north shore, 
 enclosed within an amphitheatre of mountains, present 
 themselves to view. Here commences the county of 
 Kamouraska, which fronts the river for thirty miles. 
 The track of country watered by the Quelle is very 
 productive, and regularly transports to Quebec many 
 marketable articles. Near the entrance of Quelle into 
 the Sl Lawrence a porpoise fishery is carried on to a 
 considerable extent. The village of Kamouraska is, in 
 summer, much enlivened by visitants, who resort to it 
 for sea-bathing. It has the reputation of being one of 
 the healthiest spots in the Lower Province. The islands 
 of Kamouraska are of little value, being almost bare 
 rocks. They afford shelter, however, in stormy 
 weather, to numbers of small vessels that are continu- 
 ally passing hereabouts. The general aspect of the 
 country here deserves the attention of the geological 
 observer. From the bank of the liver a very level 
 tract stretches almost to the foot of the mountahious 
 range behind. The even surface of this tract is in 
 various parts regularly embossed with abrupt masses 
 of granite, varying from twenty to thirty yards of per- 
 pendicular height, and embracing a circumference of 
 three or four acres and upwards. They arc destitute 
 
112 
 
 KAMOimASKA. — CACOUNA. 
 
 C«i 
 111 
 
 IV 
 
 r 
 
 of anything like a covering of soil, and produce only 
 dwarf pine trees and creeping shrubs. On reflecting 
 that the bed of the river is almost dry between the 
 Kamouraska Islands and the shore at low water, and 
 contrasting the position, appearance and striking 
 resemblance of these isolated mounds on terra firma 
 with the adjoining islands, the geologist is naturally 
 led to the conclusion that this level tract was at 
 some period submerged beneath the more widely 
 spreading of « the mighty Si. Lawrence,)) and that the 
 elevations in question formed islands exposed to the 
 action of its waters. Between Kamouraska and River 
 du Loup, a distance of a dozen miles, lie the Pilgrims, 
 a groupe of five islands. At low water carts can pass 
 from 'Me mainland to this group, and the Kamouraska 
 one. Riviere du Loup contains about 100 inhabitants, 
 there being a larger proportion of English and Scotch 
 than is usually found in the smaller towns of Canada 
 east. There is an Episcopal Church here, perhaps the 
 only one eastward of Quebec. About a mile in the 
 rear is a picturesque waterfall of about 80 or 100 feet. 
 To this place and Cacouna, which lies about ten miles 
 below, many families resort foy the benefit of sea- 
 batiung. Cacouna is a rocky peninsula, three hundred 
 and fifty feet high, being connected with the mainland 
 by a marshy isthmus. At Riviere du Loup commences 
 the Grand Portage road which leads to Lake Temis- 
 couata, a distance of 36 miles. Hence is the route wa 
 the Rivers Madawaska and St. John to New Brunswick, 
 and Halifax. The situation of Du Loup is more 
 romantic, but Cacouna lias the advantages of purer and 
 stronger water. Both command an extensive prospect 
 of the St. Lawrence, which is here upwards of twenty 
 miles wide, studded with islands, and bounded on the 
 
THE WHAnrs. 
 
 113 
 
 nty 
 the 
 
 opposite shore hy lofty and rugged mountains. The 
 
 sojourner is enUvened by tho sight of numerous large 
 
 vessels constantly navigating the broad expanse. Green 
 
 Island lies off Gacouna, and has a light-house sixty 
 
 feet above the sea. The light is fixed, and can be seen 
 
 at the distance of from twelve to seventeen miles 
 
 according to the height of the observer's eye from ten 
 
 to sixty feet. The light is shown from sunset to sunrise, 
 
 between the 15th of April and tlie 10th of December. 
 
 Fr:m this lighthouse to the light-vessels at the Traverse 
 
 is fifty-four miles; and for the first thirty miles above, 
 
 the river is divided into the north and south channels 
 
 by numerous islets, with banks and reefs attached to 
 
 tlipm. Among these we may mention Hare Island, 
 
 which is seven miles long in the direction of the River^ 
 
 and the Brandy Pots, off which vessels bound down, 
 
 and waiting for a wind or the tide, usually rendez- 
 voused. ■•r'''^i';.'"> ff<!'-'>' ::h^f :^-fia- ' ;'^•rt.<,■;^', .^^iV^::; ;>f.^. 
 
 The recently erected wharfs, on both sides of the 
 Lower St, Lawrence, are very solidly constructed. The 
 one of Berthier is 535 feet long, 30 wide, 38 high, and 
 has 16 to 17 feet of water when the tide is at the lowest. 
 Dovetailed timber is filled up with boulders of no small 
 magiatude ; the top filled up with shingle ; an excellent 
 side walk of boards and a number of useful mooring 
 
 posts. -i'n;:, .'llU^ ".If ■•2rftt^::i' ?ir:.-::iCJ*' If^ -o^rrt ^rf'-'"?'^ 
 
 Tiie next at ITslet is 1200 feet long, 30 wide, 30 high, 
 and affords a depth of 8 feet at low water. '-•?-- -jrA'ui^. 
 
 At Riviere Ouelle the wharf is 16 feet long, 30 wide, 
 37 high, and 16 feet of water is to be found at low tide. 
 
 At River du Loup, an L shaped wharf, like those 
 already mentioned, affords visitors the opportunity of 
 stepping upon terra firma from a steamer's gangway. 
 It is 1650 i'eet in length, 30 in breadth, 38 feet high, 
 
114 
 
 TADOUSAC. 
 
 c 
 
 and has 16 feet of water when the tide is at the 
 lowest. u, .i.t;^'i'* * *»?'',' ". ■.»<_'•') 
 
 There are also wharfs at Malbaie and at Les Eboule- 
 ments. .^>j.,. ,..;;.,' n;: =: 
 
 But we must enter the Saguenay, the cliffs on 
 either side of which ave of clay. Capes Basque, Dogs, 
 Salmon, and Eagle are described in succession. Between 
 Points Vaclies and Alouettes, where is the junction 
 with the St. Lawrence, the Saguenay is two and a half 
 miles broad, and while the St. Lawrence is only 250 
 feet deep, the Saguenay is a thousand. 
 
 Tadousac, the first settlement of the French in 
 Canada, is situated at the mouth of the Saguenay, on 
 a semi-circular terrace at the top of a beautiful bay, 
 with a sandy beach, and was the principal trading 
 post of the Hudson's Bay Company. 
 
 Here, a hotel for the accommodation of visitors to 
 this most romantic spot has been established, by an 
 association of gentlemen, resident in Quebec, Mont- 
 real, Tadousac, and Chicoatimi And there is, possibly, 
 no more desirable summer retreat for families, any- 
 where to be met with. The view of the broad St. 
 Lawrence, on the one hand, the lofty hills around, and 
 on the other, the wild and rugged banks of the deeply 
 rolling Saguenay, the fine beach and the etherially 
 bright ripple of waters laving it ; the facilities for 
 shooting and for fishing, which the neighbourhood 
 affords, give Tadousac a character and advantages 
 peculiar to itself. The hotel too, built this year by 
 Messrs. S. & G. Peters, is most commodious. It is 
 situated with its front to the St. Lavvrence, and only 
 a very short distance from the fine bay called « Ansc 
 de la Coupe ITslet,)) where sea bathing, in water very_ 
 salt, brilliantly clear and accessible at all hours of tlioS, 
 
K^PBI 
 
 TADOUSAC. 
 
 115 
 
 tide, may be iiKliil';-ed in,— in close proximity to a very 
 curions relic of other days, a chapel bnilt by the 
 Jesuits, three centuries ago, and whi :h no admirer of 
 the zealous industry of the members of the Company 
 of Jesus, for tlie conversion of the heathen, omits to 
 visit. 
 
 The hotel consists of a spacious dining room, drawing 
 room, parlours, lofty and airy bed-room, a billiard 
 room, bowling alley and every thing indeed, which 
 modern taste has adapted to a first class house ; ma- 
 naged by a gentleman of known experience in the 
 hotel line, Mr. Pope, formerly of the Donegana hotel, 
 Montreal. It may be added that several of the leading 
 citizens of Quebec ai'e here erecting for themselves 
 summer residences; and the intention exists of restor- 
 ing the old chapel, in which the religion of Christ was 
 first taught on this continent, to its original condition 
 and appearance. In the journal of the Pere Coquart, 
 S. J., who ministered to the Montagnais at Tadousac 
 and at Chicoutimi in 1746, we find the following notice 
 of the commencement of this church ; a previous 
 building having been burnt down : 
 
 Le 21 de Mars, Blanchard est parti pour alter ecarrir 
 la nouvelle Eglise a Tadousac selon I'engagement par 
 ecrit que j'ay avec lui. 
 
 Le 1 6 Mai j'ai benie la place de la nouvelle eglise 
 et coigne la premiere clieville. 
 
 NoTA. — Monsieur Hocquart Tntendant de la Nou- 
 velle France a accorde toutes les planches, madriers, 
 bardeaux et tons les clous necessaires pour la batisse 
 et je me suis engage pour moi et mes successeurs a 
 dire pour lui la messe de Ste. Anne tandis que I'eglise 
 subsistera pour reconnaitre sa liberalite. 
 
 To return to the hotel, it may be mora particularly 
 
■p^ 
 
 no 
 
 ETERNITIi. 
 
 Ic 
 
 r 
 
 stated that it contains G5 double bedded rooms, tlius 
 aftbrding accommodation to a large number of families, 
 tliat it consists of three stories, and is 120 feet in length 
 by fifty in depth, with wide corridors and two Ijalco- 
 nies, running the whole length of the building. On 
 the 20th of September last not a single piece of scant- 
 ling, window frame or anything else was made ; in 
 November all was prepared and sent down ; and on 
 15111 of May last the hotel was finished to the great 
 credit of the enterprising contractors, Messrs. S, and 
 G. Peters of Quebec. 
 
 The rugged grandeur of the scenery increases at every 
 turn. Gape after cape exhibits itself in naked majesty, 
 towering into the sky, and white porpoises gamble 
 through the inky flood below, or sleep calmly upon its 
 surface. In a few hours, the St. Marguerite, a tributary 
 of the Saguenay, famed for its salmon, about 15 miles 
 up on the right bank, as the Saguenay is ascended, is 
 passed ; and then, assuredly, Alps on Alps, arise. The 
 Petit Saguenay, Avhere Messrs. Price & Go. have a 
 lumbering establishment, soon appears on the left ; 
 that wonderful boulder, the Saguenay Island, resting 
 in 200 fathoms of water, is before us ; the river or 
 lake, for it is as certainly a lake as Lake Oniario or 
 Lake Huron is, swells out to a breadth of 9 miles, and 
 capes Eternite and Trinite, the two promontories of a 
 bay, the one 1500 and the other 1200 feet above the 
 surface of the water, are visible. It is not long before 
 the steamer is placed close under Eternite, when 
 unsuccessful attempts are made to throw pennies upon 
 the rock, and then the steamer's head is turned into 
 the Bay, until the bowsprit seems to touch the oppo- 
 site cape, which like a baie wall, stands up from the 
 water, and touches the very clouds — stone enough in 
 
 i;ii 
 
LAKE ST. JOHN. 
 
 117 
 
 one lump to build such a city as New York. Now, 
 however, the height of the land, on both sides of the 
 river, as it is ascended, begins to diminish, and occa- 
 sional cultivated spots present themselves. Afterwards 
 Grand Bay opens to view ; the Saguenay river proper, 
 that is to say, the discharge of the Lake St. Jean, on 
 which lies the new town of ChicoutiiHi, is passed ; 
 and the extensive lumber establishment of Messrs. 
 W. Price & Co. is soon reached. ^'- =^-"' -'' ' ' ■ ¥ • 
 
 LAKE ST. JOHN 
 
 Lies directly north of L'Islet, or about 40 miles 
 lower down than Quebec, is 50 miles broad and 50 
 miles long, or nearly round, the diameter being about 
 150 miles, the water deep in some parts and shallow 
 in others, the bottom and beaches composed of 
 shifting sands ; the opposite land being quite invisible 
 from any one point, and having waves 15 feet high, 
 during an easterly wind, rolling in upon the shore. 
 Along this lake, which abounds with every variety of 
 fish, and which is fed by numerous and very extensive 
 tributaries, wild peas grow in extraordinary abundance, 
 and even the wild grape, which does not ripen how- 
 ever ; and there are raspberries, blue berries, and 
 cherries Avithout end. Kuspaganish Point is the east 
 bank of the moutliof the Belle Riviere, flowing into 
 the Lake, the ascent, from the summit level of the 
 Saguenay mountains, being here 500 yards. ^ 
 
 - . w. , V I THE ROUTE TO LAKE ST. JOHN. 7L 1! c '7 ' 
 
 From Grand Baic to Gruw.! lirulo the distance is 
 nine miles, in a north-west direction. Grand Brule 
 has its church, its river and saw mill ; the land is 
 level and very fertile, and it is inhabited by about 150 
 families, chiefly French Canadians. From Grand Brule 
 
118 
 
 LAKE ST. JOHN. 
 
 C 
 
 r 
 
 to Potto's Falls, or, as it has been sometimes called, 
 the Portage des Rochers, the distance is 3^ miles, and 
 from Petto's Falls to the head of Lake Kinogomi, 
 which is as wide as the Saguenay, and has well wooded 
 and lofty banks, 18 miles ; and form a perfect gem of 
 a Lake, the Puikoui, a small sheet of water covering 
 only 8 or 10 acres, the distance to Bean Portage is 6 
 miles and the length of the portage 1 mile, which 
 brings the traveller to the Perikoba, a very rapid river 
 that falls into the Kinogomi, or as its Indian name 
 implies, Long Lake, and from thence to the Lake 
 Kinogomishish, 6 miles in length and very deep ; and 
 separated from it only by a tongue of land, 15 yards 
 wide, is Lac Vert. From Kinogomishish a short 
 portage brings the traveller to Riviere des Aulnets, a 
 meandering stream of 6 miles in length which falls 
 into the Belle Riviere and Falls, on the left bank of 
 which is the colony of the Reverend Mr. Boucher,^ 
 numbering about 36 souls. The Belle Riviere is 1*2 
 miles long, and on which there are portages to the 
 Lake St. John. 
 
 RECAPITULATION OF PORTAGES. ' " ''"' 
 
 There are three portages from Ghicoutimi to Petto's 
 Falls ; one portage to the Riviere des Aulnets ; and 
 three portages along the Belle Riviere to Lake St. John. 
 
 THE CROPS. 
 
 The fertility of the country in the neighbourhood 
 of Lake St. John may be gathered from the fact that 
 at Ghicoutimi a farmer has eaten barley of this year's 
 growth made into bread ; while our imformant dined 
 with Mr. Boucher, at Belle Riviere, on new potatoes, 
 green peas and young beans, and saw barley there 6 
 feet 2 inches in height ; wheat upwards of 5 feet in 
 height ; and capital crops of oats and turnips. 
 
TRIBUTARIES. 
 
 119 
 
 MODE .OF TRAVELLING. .,, , ^ 
 
 Our informant was accompanied in his travels ])y 
 two Indians, one of whom carried the birch canoe 
 bottom up, upon his liead, the edges of the canoe 
 resting upon his shoulders, with a band over his 
 forehead, much after the same manner as fisher-women 
 carry their creels, and the other carrying in the '^ame 
 manner, valises, blankets, &c., piled up to a wonderful 
 extent and very heavy. At night, the Indians stuck 
 four poles into the ground, crossed two together at 
 each end, placed a pole across the top, over which a 
 tarpaulin was spread out, and kept down with stones 
 upon the ground, the inside of the tent thus made 
 bemg confortably and carefully strewed with leaves 
 or small branches of trees, while the traveller fished 
 for the supper of the whole partv. In Kinogomi 
 thore are smelts j pike four feet in length ; and trout 
 in abundance. 
 
 THE TRIBUTARIES OF LAKE ST. JOHN. 
 
 We have already alluded to Kuspaganisli Point, and 
 travelling from left to right round the Lake, we may 
 explain that Kuspagan is 4J miles from Kuspanish, 
 which is 4J miles from the Hudson's Bay Post at St. 
 Jean, and situated on the Metabetchuan River, 12 
 miles further west of which is Pointe Blue, 3 miles 
 beyond which is Ouiatshuan River, 3i additional 
 miles, bringing the traveller to Ouiatshuanish river, 
 where a Mr. liudon has planted a colony consisting of 
 7 or 8 habitants, and two mills, the one a grist and the 
 other a saw mill. Still further on is the Shupnashuan 
 river and point, a very short distance from which is— 
 
 THE EXTRAORDINARY RIVER PERIKOBA. 
 
 The Perikoba is one of the most extraordinary rivers 
 
120 
 
 nUSSELL S REPORT. 
 
 C 
 
 Ic 
 
 r 
 
 on this continent. At its mouth there arc a multitude 
 of islands ; for thirty miles its depth is equal to that 
 of the Saguenay ; and its shores though not quite so 
 high as some parts of the Saguenay, are extraordina^ 
 rily high and beautifully wooded. 
 
 iV.l.' 
 
 ■„i'>"-' 
 
 , « ' ) 
 
 ,, ,,: ,.;i, , , THE SAGUENAY. ., v ,.;,-, . ,;;, .•:•!. . 
 
 These great waters all flow into the Saguenay, and 
 it is therefore no wonder that the latter has overflowed 
 Into the St. Lawrence. ' V '"'.'' / 
 
 CHARACTER OF THE SAGT'ENAY COUNTRY AS DESCRIBED BY 
 ALEXANDER RUSSELL, ESQUIRE, OF THE CROWN LANDS 
 
 DEPARTMENT. , 
 
 ^■--••■(^■■«l!>';.'"-l';>K 
 
 From the Quebec Observer^ October \Oth^ 1854. ' ' 
 C. Roger, Editor and Proprietor. 
 
 Notwithstanding its rocky and mountainous charac- 
 ter, the inner Saguenay country contains much good 
 land well adapted for settlement ; and the formation 
 of the country, and the peculiar character and distribu- 
 tion of that proportion of the land which is good, are 
 such as to give it almost the greatest possible value its 
 extent admits, so as to compensate in a great degree, 
 in this manner, and by the extreme richness of soil, 
 for the difference there may be in climate compared 
 with warmer parts of the province. , j .,,' 
 
 The good land, as far as I had the ojjportunity Of 
 observing, occurs in blocks, sufficiently lai-ge to make 
 extensive and at the same time compact settlements ; 
 which for the purpose of organization for religious, 
 educational, and other social objects, and for the 
 maintenance of roads, present advantages that can 
 
THE LAND. 
 
 121 
 
 4 
 
 never be enjoyed in localities wliero the land fit lor 
 cultivation is scattered in small fragments. Not only 
 does the arable land occur in largo blocks, but it \a 
 thoroughly good, with very little exception, and 
 entirely free from stones, which greatly diminishes 
 the labor and consequently increases the profit of 
 cultivation. Even in the vicinity of Grand Bale, 
 where the country begins to be fit for cultivation, this 
 characteristic is strikingly noticeable. On the summits 
 and steep slopes of the lofty and broken bluffs, several 
 hundreds of feet in height, where the high plateau 
 behind breaks down to the -River St. John, the soil is 
 deep, fertile, loam. 
 
 With the exception of the Grand Brul6 (where the 
 soil is sandy) the land continues of a similar character, 
 back to the rocky hills near the post of Lake Keno- 
 gami. Through from Grand Bale to Ghicoutimi it is 
 at least equally fertile ; and though, near the bay, .it 
 is broken into romantic irregularity, the intensity of 
 the vegetation bears witness to the rankncss of the soil. 
 
 Behind Ghicoutimi, where the plateau has an eleva- 
 tion of about three hundred feet, the laud for the 
 distance of eight miles towards Lake Kenogami is 
 exceedingly fertile, even, and arable, — equal in quality 
 to the best land that can be found in any part of the 
 province. Near Lake Kenogami it suddenly changes 
 in character. Barren and rocky hills encompass the 
 Lake, with the exception of one fine tract of four 
 miles in length near the head of it, on ihe north side, 
 along the River Casconia. • 
 
 From the head of Lake Kenogami, traversing the 
 valley of the Riviere des Aulnets and that of Belle 
 Riviere, ^nto which it falls, to the shore of Lake St. 
 John, there is a tract of eighteen miles in length, 
 
122 
 
 METAUETCIIOUAN. 
 
 Ic 
 
 f 
 
 with a varial)le wiiUli, tlio soil of wliicli is generally 
 exceedingly fertile and free from stones ; all of a deep 
 alluvial formation — pi-esonting iiself atthe commence- 
 ment as a high plateau with deep water courses, and 
 terminating on the f-hore of the Lake, in extensive 
 Hats, subject to inundation in the spring, which 
 tliough partly unfit for growing grain on these 
 accounts, will yield continually heavy crops of hay. 
 
 Following the shore of the Lake, at three miles, a 
 little beyond the mouth of the Kushpaganish, the 
 land rises gently in fertile slopes, and the shore 
 becomes a terrace, of about fifty feet in height, with a 
 rich soil free from stones. 
 
 Three miles further at the mouth of the Metabet- 
 chouan, (the most beautiful spot probably in the Pro- 
 vince,) the mountains approach to within half a league 
 of the shore, which becomes less favorable for settle- 
 ment ; but, from high grounds rising from the east 
 shore of the Lake, there can be seen, far in the 
 distance, l)pyond Metabctchouan, a beautiful tract of 
 gently sloping land richly wooded, projecting into the 
 Lake, apparently about nine miles in length and 
 breadth, which those who have visited it describe as 
 very arable rich land. 
 
 Of the couii'ry on the northern shore of the Lake 
 I am unabla ■ o express an opinion, not having visited 
 it ; nor could I obtain any distinct information respect- 
 ing it. It is evident, however that it must be a compa- 
 ratively low and level country, for a great distanco 
 back from the shore. Looking over the Lake from 
 high grounds on the south-east shore, no land on the 
 other side is visible ; but if there were mountains 
 within twenty miles of the shore, or hills sfi half the 
 distance, they would be distinctly seen. We are 
 
LEVEL. 
 
 123 
 
 obliged to believe, Jiowever, that there must be a 
 region of stratiDed limestone, and consequently good 
 land, in that direction, to some considerable extent ; 
 for where the waters of the Lake have cut the high 
 alluvial banks on its south-east shore, their bases 
 exhibit a riass of water, — borne fragments of rocks 
 and stones, chiefly stratilied limestone, and the beacli 
 is covered with them. As they cannot have been 
 brought from the elevated ranges of primitive forma- 
 tion to the south-oast, we must look for their original 
 site to the north and west ; and it is difhcult to say 
 how important the result might be of a geological 
 investigation, prosecuted in that almost unknown 
 
 region. 
 
 '''■*; 
 
 Stjf,,; 
 
 ■h'-!'i'f 
 
 fi i 
 
 My examination of their interior was limited to an 
 excursion of about ninety miles, of which the pro- 
 ITortion of land, fit for settlement, is I think sufficient 
 to form six parishes. As it might seem presumptuous 
 to express an opinion on an examination so limited, I 
 b3g to explain that it was performed with the greatest 
 care. It may be unnecessary to say that Mr. Dalian tyne, 
 who surveyed the greater part of the townships in the 
 Saguenay Territory, has had opportunities of forming 
 an opinion much superior to mine. 7 r ^^i v^- v.u; 
 
 Not having made any exploration on the north-cast 
 side of the Saguenay, I can express no opinion of the 
 countrv behind the front settlements on that side. A 
 very commanding view of it can be obtained from the 
 high grounds behind Ghicoutimi, embracing a great 
 portion of the east end of the great basin of the inner 
 Saguenay, in the centre of which Lake St. John is 
 situated. Far to the right and left, and far to the 
 northeast is seen stretching -m extensive undulating 
 or.hilly plateau, apparently from four to seven liun- 
 
124 
 
 ST. MARGlJEr.ITE MOUNTAINS. — CLIMATE. 
 
 I ^^™»'ti, 
 
 r 
 
 dred feet in height, presenting in many places indica. 
 tions of good land, such as is said to be found there in 
 considerable tracts, and behind rises the range of the 
 St. Marguerite Mountains ; like a gigantic wall ; appa- 
 rently thirty miles distant, and three thousand feet in 
 height. 
 
 From the best information I could obtain, combined 
 with personal observation, I am led to believe that 
 a proportion, equal on an average to one third part 
 on the surveyed townships, is good arable land ; and 
 when the prevailing richness of the arable, and its 
 freeness from stones, are taken into consideration, 
 practical men will at once see that the value of that 
 proportion of the land which is arable, is much 
 greater than it would be were the soil as poor and 
 stoney as in several parts of tbe Lower Province 
 already settled or being so. In some of the back con- 
 cessions of the parishes below Quebec, much valuable 
 labor is lost in improving land (inferior in richness to 
 that of the Saguenay country) owing to the quantity 
 of stones to be removed, and that afterwards occupy 
 part of the land in heaps. 
 
 When it is considered that these localities have no 
 advantage in climate over the Saguenay, the superiority 
 of the latter, as a site for settlement, will present itself 
 more as a self-evident fact than a^ subject of opinion. 
 In respect of a freeness from stones, the land fit for 
 cultivation, of the inner Saguenay, has decidedly the 
 advantage over a great part of the District of Quebec 
 and Eastern Townships, the settlements in some parts' 
 north of Montreal, and much of the Ottawa country. 
 
 With ordinary cultivation on good land, in the 
 Township of Ghicoutimi, as much as sixteen and a half 
 bushels to one, sown of wheat, has been obtained, 
 
CLIMATE 
 
 12^ 
 
 !cupy 
 
 vc no 
 iority 
 itself 
 nioii. 
 t for 
 the 
 jebec 
 parts 
 ry. 1 
 the 
 half 
 inedy 
 
 thirty to one of barley, and from eighteen to twentv- 
 live to one, of oats ; showing two bushels of the latter 
 to the acre and one of the former. Wheat crops have 
 sometimes failed with some of .he settlers, but only 
 when too late sown ; wheat having been sown sometimes 
 as late as the end of June, by settlers late with their 
 
 The climate admits of sowing being sufTiciently early. 
 In the new settlements, in the Township of Labarre, 
 wheat sowing began in 1851 on .the 8th of May, in 1852 
 on the 4th, and in 1853 on the 7th of that month. 
 Lying in the same latitude as »he thriving settlement 
 of the County of Rimouski, where grain' of all kinds is 
 successfully cultivated, the climate of the inner Sague- 
 nay con Id not be supposed to be less favourable. 
 
 Compared with the exterior settlements of Lhe County 
 of Saguenay, on tJie Si. Lawrence, the climate of the 
 inner Saguenay country is no doubt superior, as the 
 testimony of intelligent persons and careful observa- 
 tions takcii of the temperature indicate. This difference 
 can be explained by a little consideration of the forma- 
 tion of the country, with the assistance of the recognized 
 principles of physical geography. 
 
 The settlements in parts of the parishes of IjCs Eboii- 
 lements, Ghemin du Caps, &c., are twelve hundred feet 
 above the level of the St, Lawrence. Li iliis country 
 four hundred and fifty feet of elevation is equal to a 
 degree of northing in latitude. The i)lateau of Chicou- 
 timi is one degree north of LesEboulemenis, butithas 
 nine hundred feet less ofelevation above the sea, which 
 being equal to two degrees of southiiig in latitude gives 
 it an advantage in climate over Les Eboiilements equal 
 to one degree of latitude. The flat lands around Lake 
 St. Jahn are low«i.' than, the plateau oIGUicoutimi, and 
 
12G 
 
 THE GREAT VALLEY.— HAY. 
 
 c 
 
 the influence which that great body of water must have 
 in keeping off late and early frosts, and moderating the 
 coldness of the climate, is too evident to persons of 
 experience to need remark ; and accounts lor the climate 
 being said to be milder there than at Ghicoutimi. The 
 great elevation of the regions that surrond the basin of 
 the inner Saguenay must, by enhancing its depression, 
 increase the warmth of the valley. ,,.,^,„ 
 
 Such a great valley presenting so much alluvial 
 soil, with the features of nature arranged as much 
 as possible in its favor, with the vast basin of the 
 Saguenay as a stupendous ship canal, peneti'ating fairly 
 into it through the broad barrier of mountain c ^'Utry, 
 cannot remain long unimportant. 
 
 I intended to have said something of the extraor- 
 dinary suitableness of the Saguenay country for the 
 growth of flax and hemp, and the advantage of pro 
 secuting it now that improvements in manufacture 
 liave increased the value of the former, and foreign 
 waj' that of the latter, and of the employment in win- 
 ter which their preparation might afford ; and also of 
 the superiority of the Saguenay as a hay growing 
 country, and how advantageous the settlement of it 
 would be for the supplying of beef, cattle for the shi 
 ping and emigrants arriving at Quebec, and its inhfli 
 tants, now tliat the supply formerly derived from the 
 Eastern Townships is drawn away to other markets. I 
 
 Had 1 not already trespassed so far on your atien-* 
 tion, and were it not exceeding the subject referred to 
 me, I might have stated the advantages of a railroad 
 in connecting important localities, where the interven 
 tion of an extensive barren region precludes the poiji-^ 
 lulity of forming such intermediate settlcmenl }}s 
 would be necessary for the maintenance of communi- 
 
NORWAY. |g7 
 
 ration by a common road ; and I might also liave 
 pointed out the certainty of a railroad being reqtiired 
 to the inner Saguenay, as soon as the popuhition there 
 increases as much in proportion as it has done during 
 the last ten years. 
 
 By the most moderate estimates the inner Saguenay 
 territory contains more land fit for cultivation than 
 there is in the kingdom of Norway, wliich has a popu- 
 lation ot upwards of twelve hundred thousand souls; 
 and lest the comparison with Norway should seem to 
 imply anything disadvantageous with reference to the 
 Saguenay, it may be necessary to add that the Norwe- 
 gian peasantry are much better educated, and live 
 iar more independently, and are richer in property 
 than the majority of agricultural labourers in Great 
 Britain. ., 
 
 t 4 
 
1 1 
 
 
129 
 
 KENFREW & MARCOU, 
 
 .? ^^^'^^ HENDEJRSON, KENFREW & CO.,) 
 
 20, BUADE STREET. 
 
 IN ALL THE NEWEST STYLES, 
 
 ENGLISH, FRENCH & AMERICAN, 
 
 ' FllOM THE BEST MAKEliS. 
 
 OF THE BEST QUALITIES AND LATEST SHAPES, 
 
 FOR LADIES' AiSD GENTLEMEN'S WEAK 
 
 VIGTORINES, . 
 
 COLLARS, 
 
 MUFFS, 
 
 GOATS, 
 
 SLEIGH ROBES, 
 
 GAPS, &c., &c. 
 /5- 
 
 t 
 
 I 
 
 Barkwork, Snow /Shoes, Moccasins, Toboggans. 
 
 A LARGE DISCOUNT MADE TO UEALERS FOR CASH. 
 
 HIGHEST PRIGES PAID FOR RAW FURS. 
 
130 
 
 r 
 
 GLOVER & FRY, Ml 
 
 IMPORTERS, 
 
 -# ESTABLISHED 1842. ^' ' 
 
 To Traveller§ and Straiis^cr§ vi§iUng Quebec. 
 
 20, FABRIQUE STREET. 
 
 We wish to call the attention of Strangers visiting this City, to one of 
 the Icrgest and finest Dry Goods Establi>hments in this Province, where 
 Will be found at all seasons a large and choice selection of general Dry 
 Goods ; and we call particular attention to the following Special Depart- 
 ments, which surpass any in this Province : 
 
 SIE.K ©EPAUT^EI^T. 
 
 Black Silks in Moire Antique, Gros Grain, Armure, Princess Cord, 
 Gros de Suez, Glaces, &c.. Colored Moire Antique, in all the new colors, 
 Gros de Suez, Glaceg, Irish Poplins, and the latest novelties in Fancy 
 Silks. 
 
 ]IIAi^TI.K I>E:PARX]VIEr\T. 
 
 In this Department we pay particular attention to have the latest 
 novelties direct ti-om London and Pan's. 
 
 Gros Grain Jackets, newest styles and textures in Tweed Jackets, 
 Waterproof Tweetl Tourists' Mantlet, very useful for Ladies travelling. 
 
 Mantles mnde on the premises^ under the superintendence ot an 
 experienced person. 
 
 IfIII.L.II^i:Rlf DEPAHTTIEilrT. 
 
 Paris Fashions in Trimmed Bonnets and Hats ; Uutrimmed Bonnets 
 and Hats in great variety ; Flowers, Feathers, Head Dresses, &c. 
 
 CI^OXIlIilk& ]>EPAR1\liei\T. 
 
 Always on hand a large stock of Gentlemen's Clothing, in all the new 
 .styles and textures, which for price, style and workma»>phip cannot be 
 surpassed. 
 
 Black Cloth Suits, Tweed Suits, Over Coats, suitable for nil seasons, 
 Pea .lackets, Blanket Coats, Boy's Clothing of all sizes and styles. 
 
 Clothing made to order on the premises, under the superintendence of 
 a first class cutter. All orders executed witi-. great care and despatch. 
 
 eE]\XI.E]»IEI^'jS OOOI>^. 
 
 White Dress Shirts, Fancy Flannel Shirts, Underclothing, Hosiery, 
 Handkerchiefs, Ties, Collars, Braces, Studs, Collar Links, Valises, Carpet 
 BagSj Gents. Wrapping Shawls, Railway Wrappers. 
 
 14, FABRIQUE STREET. 
 FURI^ENIIIMO 000»S. 
 
 I' 
 
 A large assortment of Furnishing Goods of every description, at prices 
 lower than any other store. 
 
 Brussels, Tapestry and Scotch Carpels, Silk and Worsted Damasks, 
 for curtains, Floor Oil Cloths, in all widths, Bedsteads, Matrasses, Looking 
 Glasses, Mirrors, &c. 
 
 The Atllest Taliic siren tor American Currency. 
 

 131 
 
 '' Cmivriff k" & 
 
 One of tlie most largely circulated French Newspapers 
 
 and the best advertising medium for all American 
 i^ manufactures saleable in Canada 
 
 vs.? Published three times a week^ 
 
 Monday, llednesday and Friday. 
 
 Proprietor LEGER BROUSSEAU, 
 
 
 QUEBEC, C. E. 
 
 .f ' 
 
 LEGER BROUSSEAU. 
 
 jk? Importer of Teas and Wines, i. 
 
 BOOK AN^ JOB 
 
 Steam Press Printing Establishment, ■ 
 
 :Sfo, r, Buade iStrect, " 
 
 Fancy Cards, Business, Visiting and Ball Cards, Bills; 
 Plain and Fancy Printing, 
 
 OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. i 
 
 |^o(jli-§intrin(j in all its toancljfs, 
 
 BXECUTED WITH DEifPATCH AND AT 
 
 MODERATE PRICES. 
 
132 
 
 r 
 
 Ivciil 
 
 THE OLD STAND,* 
 
 No. 9, .Tolui Street— EHtnbUshed 1S86. 
 
 . B^ GEORGE HALL & CO., n 
 
 WHOLESALE AND RETAIL, 
 
 Grocers, Wine and Spirit Merchants, 
 
 Have on hand one ol' ihe finest and most extensive assortments of 
 Groceries, VVines, Liquors, &c., ever offered in this city. 
 
 THE FOLLOWING M'll.L BE FOUND IN STOCK : 
 
 I'eas, Coffees, Chocolates, Cocoas, Sugars and Syrups ; also. 
 Potted and Preserved Meats. &c. 
 
 IV I N E S. 
 
 SHERRY" — Doniecque's, Pemartin's, Kingston & Sons', Ysasi & Co.'s, 
 
 J. de Paul, Dufl', Gordon & Co., and Burden's. 
 CURIOUS WINES— Vino De Pasto, Amontillado, verj' \ :\e, very 
 
 particular, of the finest quality. 
 PORT WINE— Sanderman's, Graham's, Taylor's, of various qualities, 
 
 and of the highest grades imported. 
 Burg^indy Port, Common Port and Spanish Red Wines, Sweet Malaga 
 
 for Medical purposes. 
 
 C H A HI P A O N E S . 
 
 Moet & Chandon's, Iroy's, Ruinhart ; Imperial Cabinet, Crescent and 
 Anchor Brands. 
 
 RHENISH WINES. 
 
 Sparkling Hock, Still Hock, Sparkling Mozelle and Hochenheimer. 
 
 BRANBIES. 
 
 Hennessey & Co., Ottard, Dupuy & Co., Pinet, Castillon & Co., Planet 5c 
 
 Co., Jules Robin & Co., Vineyard Proprietors. 
 Dularq, Bellamy Ac Co., Vine Growers. 
 Chaloupin & Co., a few cases very old. 
 Ca."ies Liqueurs, Curacoa, Marasehmo, Noyau, Anisette, Huile de Rose, 
 
 Scubac, Parfait Amour. 
 Barrels of London Porter, Quarts and Pmts. 
 Barrels of Ale, Quarts and Pints — Younger's, Allsopp's, Bass & Kewney 
 
 & Co.'s. 
 Gin— John DeKuyper & Son's, in Hhds. and Cases, Cordial Gin, Old Tom, 
 
 and a variety of Cordials. 
 Fine Old Jamaica Rum and Jamaica Shrub. 
 High Wines, Puncheons, Hhds. and Casks. 
 Scotch and Irish Mall Whisky, Old Rye and Toddy, Family Proof, pure 
 
 and low price. 
 Cheese — English, Queen's Arms, Chedder, Stilton, Berkley, Truckles and 
 
 American. 
 Butter — Crane Island, Frampton and Megantic. 
 Prime Cincinnati Hams. 
 
 Flour — Superfine, Extra and Double Extra, finest quality for family use. 
 
 The above goods are ail of a very choice quality, and selected for 
 
 FAMILY USE, and warranted as good as represented. 
 
 Orders for Fishing or Pic-Nic parties supplied toith the utmost despatch* 
 
133 
 
 W. MARSDEM, M. D., 
 
 Ex. President and Governor of the College of Pliys. 
 
 and Sur. Lower Canada ; Hon. Fel. Med. Bot. 
 
 ' * Society London ; Cor. Fel. Med. Soc. London ; 
 
 ^;. Hon. Pel. Mont. Pathological Soc. ; lloii. 
 
 ^'U0}^ ..Pel. Berks. Med. Soc. and Lvcenm' 
 
 ' ;.4 ' ^'^t. His. ; Hon. Fel. Medico- 
 
 Chirurgical Soc. New York ; 
 &^c., i^c, &c. 
 '. PLACE D'ARMES, QUEBEC. ' 
 
 .m 
 
 .':H^ e 
 
 The most extensive and best selected stock of 
 
 ■ ^._f iSliii f iiiii lo'i 
 
 IN CANADA. 
 
 t SALMON RODS AND FLIES, 
 
 TROUT RODS AND FLIES OF ALL DESCRIPTION, 
 Fishing Baskets, Silk Lines, ^c 
 
 Per Sale at ^ - !. 
 
 BELANGER & GARIEPY, 
 
 Hardware, 
 ^ ^ Fabrique street, Upper Town. 
 
 m^ ut 
 
T 
 
 134 
 
 b 
 
 r 
 
 /'SHEFFIELD HOUSE, f 
 
 No. 8, Fabrlaue Street, i^webec. 
 
 HENRY SMEATON & CO., 
 
 DIRECT IMPORTERS FROM THE MANtlFACTI'RERS OF 
 
 idler anti (^Mxa |Iatclr (ilan\ 
 
 GOLD A\D SILVER WATCHES, CLOCKS, TIMEPIECES, if., 
 
 JEWELLERY, 
 
 Fishing Tackle, Cabinet Goods, Toys, Soaps and 
 Perfumery, Archery, Cricketing materials, English, 
 French and German Fancy Goods, Table and 
 Pocket Cutlery, Spoons, Forks, ike, 
 
 WHOLESALE AND RETAIL. i 
 
 DEPOT FOR STEREOSCOPIC VIEWS. 
 
 HOUGH'S LIVERY STABLES 
 
 AND 
 
 C/imiAGE MANUFAOTORT. 
 
 Saddle Horses, Single and Double Teams, with or 
 without drivers. Always in readiness. 
 
 APPLY AT OFFICE, ST. LOUIS HOTEL. 
 
135 
 
 W. B. VALLEAU k Co," 
 Sailors anir Jrapcrs, , 
 
 jh . -,^ I 
 
 Mmn Jint'iw •ii»»*t0r*' 
 
 ,Bft 
 
 - T': 
 
 No. 9,^BUADE STREKT, 
 
 i' S 
 
 . » < 
 
 .*.»,- . Ii«> 
 
 .^ f< ^--rt^ll-^atf^i ^ 
 
 QUE BEC.f 
 
 MILLINERY AND DRESS-MAKING 
 
 ESTABLISHMENT,,,, 
 
 Importers of all Novelties of the Season, 
 
 COMPRISING 
 
 MOIRE ANTIQUES, 
 
 And all sorts of Real Laces and Trimmings, &c. 
 
 ESTABLISHED IN 1819. 
 
 7 ' ' Mrs. H. JACOBS, 
 
 Collin Street. 
 
130 
 
 i 
 
 •I 
 
 , , . p. I'OULIN 4 SON, (' 
 «att| Italitrs anlr |tl»tlltis, 
 
 No. 33, ST. JOHN STREET, f . . 
 Corner of Jail Hill. 
 
 Depot for the Sale of Homoeopathic Medicines, 
 Estabiislied in 1857. 
 
 10 
 r 
 
 H 
 
 W. DRUM'S 
 
 Cliair and Cabinet Steam xdctory, 
 
 FURxNITURE SHOW ROOMS, 
 103, at, Paul and 9, St, Charles Strceli, 
 
 QUEBEC. 
 
 Has constaiilly on hand a very largo and oxcellcnt 
 
 V assortment of all classes of Furniture, Drawing 
 
 . Room Sets, Mahogany, Rosewood, Black 
 
 Walnut, Oak, Dining-room, Bed-room 
 
 and Parlor Sots, and other Furniture 
 
 of the newest designs and best 
 
 workmanship. 
 
 Terms liberal , and every article sold for what it really is. 
 
 THE TRADE SUPPLIED. 
 
137 
 
 CHAS. M^^DONALD & SON. 
 
 DEALERS IN 
 
 PAPER HANGINGS, 
 
 fiiif Si iLiSii eiiSi fti 
 
 ALSO, 
 
 COAL OIL, LAMPS, &c., 
 
 UPPJCR TOWrV 9IARICKT Pf^ACE, 
 
 Opposite French Cathedral. 
 
 T. LAIDLAW & CO., 
 
 No, 23, St. JTotaii Street, 
 
 IMPORTERS OF 
 
 »i| 
 
 ^fa|It anir #nfg**irg ioolii 
 
F 
 
 Vet; 
 
 138 
 
 E. C. BARROW, 
 
 EXCHANGE BROKER, 
 
 No. 6, Buade Street, 
 OPPOSITE THE POOT OFFICE. 
 
 AMERICAN CURRENCY EXCHANGED ON BEST TERMS. 
 
 SILVER FOR SxlLE. 
 
 English and American Gold always on hand. 
 
 STERLING EXCHANGE NEGOGIATED. 
 Uiicnrveiit Coin!>i 1>oiig^1it stnd ho1<1, 
 
 &c., hc.^ he- 
 
 APOTPxECARIES' HALL, 
 
 BUADE STREET, 
 Oppo»«itc lite »i<3e ol* tl»e Frciicli Cutltedral. 
 
 JOHN S. BOWEN, 
 
 PROPRrElX3R, 
 
 Has coiistaiilly on hand a complete and well selected 
 stock of Toilet Articles, Perfumery, Fancy Soaps, 
 Combs, Brushes, Spon^ios, &c. 
 
 Agent in Quebec for the genuine J. M. Farina's Eau de 
 Cologne, and Piesse and Lubin's Perfumes. 
 
 ALSO, 
 
 A complete stock of the principal Ar 3rican, English and 
 French I'atent Medicines of repute, which are guaranteed as 
 being genuine. 
 
 Soda Water and Nectar from the Fountain, with Cream 
 Syrups of every flavor. 
 
 Presciiptions accurately dispensed and with as much 
 despatch as is consistent with attention and their proper 
 preparation. ,