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TRAVELS

IN THE

GEEAT WESTERN PRAIRIES

THE AJiAlll'AC AND ROCKY ilIOUXTALNS,

AND IN THE

OREGON TERRITORY.

BY THOMAS J. FARNHAM.

PREFACE.

It \"n» customary, in old times, for till Authors -
to enter the world of lellcrs on tlieir \uinn, and
with uncovered head and u lx)w of ehiirniin;^' i
meekness, write themselves some hrainlcsd dolt's j
" most hunihlc and obedient scrvaut." In
later days, the Bamc feigned suhscrvieney has
fihown itself m other forms. One desires tiiat
Bomc other will kindly pardon the weakness and
imhce,ility of his production; for, although these i
faults may exist in his book, lie wrote under " most '!
adverse cbcumstances," as the crying of a hoixftil
child— the quarrels of his [Kiultry, and utlicr dis.
asters of the season.

Anotlicr, clothed with the mantle of the sweet.
CBt Bclf.coniplac<'n<'y, looks out from his Preface
like a sun-dog on the morning shy, and merely
shinrs uul llir query, " Am I nnl a .Sim .'" while
he wiCUrCB a retreat for his solf-love, in case any
body should supjKjse he ever indulged s>uch a i>iu-
gular sentiment.

Another few of our literary shades make no jiie.
tensions to niDdesty. Tliey hold out to llir world
no need of aid in laying the foundalions of their
fame. .Vnd, however adverse the opinions of the
times may l)c to their claims on inunortal renown,
they are sure of living hereafler — and only regret
they should have lived a lumilred years bcl'ore llie
world was prepared to receive them.

There is another class who — contidcnt tha
they u:iderRtaiid the subjects they treat of, ifnotll.
ing eUe, aiul that, epcaking plain truth for the in.
formation of piaui men, they caimot fail to narrate
matter of interest concerning scenes or incidents
they have vituesscd, and sens itions they have c.^-
perienced — trouble not thenis-elves witli qU'ilnwof
inability or lack of p'jl!.i!i, but speak from the
heiu't right on. These write tiieir names on their
title-pages, and leave their readers at leisure Xft
judge of their merits as they dcvelope themselves
in the work it..jlf, without any si>cciil pleading or
any deiueeatorv prayers to tlie reviews, by

"THE AUTHOR."

INTRODUCTIOX.

The Oiirj:o.\ TEiiiirroav form:* the tcrmiima of
thr;ic travels; and, as lli:it loimlry is an object of
mui'li interest on both sides of the .Vtlaiilic, I hava
thought proper to preface my wanderings there by
a brief discussion of tlie question as to whom it
belongs.

Hv iredics l)elwei'n tlic United .States and
Spain and .Mexico and Russia the southern boun-
dary of Oregon is fixed on the I'-id parallel of
.Vorth Latitude; and Ihcnorlhcriion an East and
West line at .'> ' li)'. North. Us natural boundary
on tlie Ivist i the main ridgr of the Rocky Moun-
tains, situated about -I'H) miles East of the Paciti'o
Ocean, which washes it on the West. From these

Entered accords
three, bv TiiOM.\s

ing to an Act uf Congress, in the year of our Lord ei^hle.n hundred and forty
J. F.vn.MUM, in 'the Clerk's Office oj the Southern Dis^'^"'' Ar*«-V«-;i,

nsdc

Travels in the Great Western Prairies,

data the reader will observe tliHt it is about 600
iiiilee in length and 400 in brentli

authorities referred to, no jurisdiction had been
exercised by tlie subjcctB of any civiUzcd power

According to tlie well cstf.blished laws of Na- i "" any part of llio North-Wcsl coast of America
tions applicable to the prcniis<'s, the title to the between :)" and OOdogrccBof North latitude
Bovereignty over it depends upon the prior diseov.
ery and occupancy of it, and uiron cessions liy

treaty from the first discoverer and occupant. —
These several important matters I proceed to ex-
amine with Grccnough's History of the Northwest
coast of America and the works therein named
before me as sources of reference.

From the year 1533 to 1540, the .SjisinlHli fiov.
cnunent sent four expeditions to explore the North.
West Coast of Americii in search of what did not
exist,— a water communication from the I'a.
cific to the Atlantic. These iloets were severally
commanded by Mazuehi, tirijalva, Bceera and
UUoa. They visited the coast of Califoniia an<l
the South- WcBteni shore of Oregon.

The next Naval Expedition, under the same
Power, commanded by Bartolenie Ferrelo, pene-
trated the North as far as latitude 43° and (Uscov-
cred Cape Blanco.

Juan de Fuca discovered and entered the
•Straits that boar liis name in the year 1592. —
He Bi)ent twenty days within the StraitR in ma-
king himself acquainted with the surrounding

Thus is it shown on how firm and incontro.
vertible data the Spanish claims rest to the prior
discovery and occupancy of the Oregon Terrritory .

But as against England this claim was rendered
if possible more certain by the treaty of February
lOth, 17U3, between Spain, England and Franco
— by which England was confirmed in her ('ana.
diaii possessions, and Spain in her discoveries and
|)iirehaNed jmsscssions west of the Mississippi. If,
then, England has any claim to Oregon as derived
from Spain, it must rest on treaty stipulations en-
tered nito Hubsiquently tn the lOtli of February,
17t)3. We accordingly find her to liavc formed
a treaty with Spain iu the )-ear 180(1, sotthng the
diffictdties between the two powers in relation
to Nootka Sound. By the first article of thcron-
vention, Spain agreed to restore to England those
jwrtinns of the country around Nootka Sound
which r.ngland had so oecujjied in regard to time
and manner as to have acquired a right to them.
The 5th article siipidates as follows :

adjacent, situate to the north of the coast already
occupied by Spain wherein the subjects of either
of the two Hovers shall have made settlements
since the month of April 1789, or shall hereafter
make any. 'l"he subjects of the other shall have
free access and shall carry on their trade without
any disturbance or molestation."

The inquiries that naturally arise here are, on
what places or parts of the North-West Coast did

"5th. As well in the places which arc to lie
restored to the British subjects by virtue of the

country, tracUng with the natives, and in taking ; ^,?S "51''^''; "/ '" "" f '" '^'"'''""f ''"" '"^'°"'l-
■', ^ ... 1 AVest t oast of North America, or of the Island,

jiosscssion of the adjacent territories m the name '

of the Spanish Crown. The Straits dc Fuca en.

ter the land in latitude 49° North, and, running ]

one hundred miles in a South-easterly diree.

tion, change their course North-westwardly and

enter the Ocean again under latitude 51° ;

IJorth. And thus it appears that Spain diseov. \

cred the Oregon Coast from latitude 4i.'° to 49° |

North 251 years ago— and, as will appe.ir by ref- ! tl.is article oi)erate; what rights were grant. ' by

erence to dates, 184 years jmor to the celebrated ■ -^^^ ,„„i (^ ^^,,,,1 patent the V'nited States, as the

English Expedition under Captain Cook. | j^^ccessors of Spain, in the ownership of Oregon,

In 1602, and subsequent years Corran and Vis- i| ^fg hound by this treaty I
caiiio, in the employment of Spain, surveyed many jj These will be considered in their order.
parts of the Oregon Coast, and in the fullowing , dearly the old Spanish settleinintsof the Call-
year Aguiler in the same service, discovered the ,' f„mias were not ineluded among the places or
mouth of thel'inpquariverinjatitiide44° North. :i parts of the Norlli-West Coast on which this ar-

In August, 1774, Pare/, and Martinez under tide was intended to operate, for the reason that
the Spanish Hag discovered and anchored in '[^ Kiigland, the party in interest, has never claimed
Nootka Sound. It lies between 49 and 50 de. } that they were. But on the contrary, in all her
grces of North latitude. !^ diplomatic and commercial intercourse with Spain

In 1774 and 1775 the North- West Coast was j since IHOil, she has treated the soil of the (/ahfor-
explored by Parez and Martinez of the S|)anish j nias with the same consideration that she has any
nervice, as far North as the 58th parallel oflati-'l portion of the Spanish territories in Europe. —
tude. i And since that country has formed a department

On the 6th day of May, 1789, the Spanish cap. jl of the Mexican Republic, England has setup
tain Martinez, commanding two national onned j no claims within its limits under this treaty,
vesecls, took possession of Nootka Sound and the I Was Nootka Sound embraced among the pla.
•iiioiuijifr country. Previoua to this event, say the ccs refcrcd to in thii article ? That woi the onlv

eel 111 f
|ecls

muiilll
aii'l u|

in the Rocky Mounlains, the Oregon Tcrrilor;/, ffc.

icttldiiriit on tlu! Nortli Went ('iKiHt, of the; mil).
jcclB of Si):iiii or Kti;;luinl, nm<lr lictwicii thfi
iiiuatli of April, ITri?, <iii:l llio >\niv i>( 111" (nsily.
iiu^l \v.i;i uiiilfmlili(ll)- (•ml)r;iiT<l in llw 'A\\ Arti.
rlu. Anil so wwi tlif rcniiiinilrr of llir roasi, ly.
in'^ Norlliwiird of Nocilkii on wliicli Spiiin hul
cltiinis. It (lid not cxtciil Smilli of Noulkii Somitl.
Sol an in<-li of wiil in tlic> vallry of the ('nltniil)iii
ami its Irilmt uicM wns incliidcil in tli' provisions
of Irciity of 17(i.').

Our ni'xt inipiiry rcl ilcs to the n;ilnrr :inil ex-
tt'nt of llio riglilH iit Noolka und nurlliward which
Kii'jlund iiC(|nircd by this Ircily. 'J'licy urr
(ktrK'il in tlir conclndin'j; jdirasr of tlir :nii<drl)(".
fo.iM'itcd. Till' suliji'i'ls of liolli till- iT)iitrnclin<;
I'owiTK •' shall have fri'i' across, and slidl carry
on llicirlrado willi'inl distnrliancc or inoUsiition."'
In oIli'M' words llic sulijccls of Kntrland shall have
l.ii; H inic rijjht to est ililisli tradin-j posts and car.
ry on a trade wilii the Indians, as were, or shonid
he enjiived hy SJ)•.lMi^:ll snlijecls in those r(';;ions.
Docs this stipidatiiin ahroriile the Sovi.'rriiriil v <d
.■-^p lin over those Territories ! I)n;;land Ik rsilf
has si'arcely inipu'lenite eiioaffh to nrire with se.
rinnsness a proposilinn sc) ridicnlimsly absurd. A
j;rant of an e([U d riirlil to sellle in a coinitry for
piM'pc)ses of trade— anil a [fnacanty afi'ainst "dis.
tnrbanee"' and " molestation," does not, in any vn.
cahulary of common reason, imply u cession of I he
KovereijTiily of the IciTitory in whiih Ihesoaclsare
to be done. The- niniib.r and nalnre of tlie rijjhis
frranled to Kn;^l;Mid hy I his Ire ity ari' simply a r\<shl
of the joint oe.cnpiiiey of Xootlia and Ihe Spanish
territories to the Nijiiliward for pii'pnscs nt trade
with the, Indians ; a joint tenancy, suhiecl to he
terminated at the will of Ihe owner of the lillelo
the feo and 111'- Sovereijruty ; und, if not Ihiis
tcrminaleil, to he teniiinalevl hy llii' opiTaliens
of the ni'Cessity of thin:'s — the lui'iilnl ilioii of
the trade — the destrii-lion of the Indians llnni-
selves as they should fall hefoa^ the march of civ.
ili/ati'Xi. It eml.l nol have bicna perpelnal riLrhl.
ill the eimteniplation of either of Ihe ei<ntraeliii;r
parties.

Uill there are re irons why the provisions of the

treaty of 17().3 in ver hive been ao.l n vi r can he
hindinij on the rnited .States as ih ■ Mieeessors of
Spain in the Oregon Territory.

There is the evidence of private irentleineii of
tlie niost nndonblcd idiaraed r ^oiii;; lo show, that
iSpain neilliersiirrend' red lo Ensjlandany portion
of Nootka — or ollii r parts of the North- West
Coast; for that if she otVeivd to do do, the oiler was
not acted upon by lliiiiland; — and testimony to
the same elVecl in the deliates of ihe limes in Ihe
Farliainunt of Britain, iu which tliis important

, fiict is distinctly ussertcd, anlhorisi! iih to declitro

I that the treaty of 1 7f i<i was itnnnlled hy Spnin, nnd
so considered by Knijland herself And if Hni^land
did not nil an lo show the worbl thai she aeipiicHced
ill the iioii-liilliliiient of Spiin. t.lie shoiihl have

' reasserled her ri;,r|ils. if she lhoi|i;ht she had any,
and not lefl third parlies to infer that she hail

I (Mliellv aliindoned them. The I 'nitcd States had

I every reasfin to infer such iiliandoiiment ; and in
view of it, thus manilesled. piireliased <)rei,'on
of .Spain. I'lider these ciicinnsl inces, with what
jiisliee can Ihigland, after the hi|me of nearly Intif
a century, come forward and demand of the sni;-
ccssor of Spain ri!,dits in Oreiroii which shir Ihim
virln.illy abandoned — which were refused by
Spain, and to wliii h she never had the shadow of
a ri;,'ht on the score of prior discovery, oceiipan.
cy or |iiirehase > The perpelually controlling im-
pudence aiul selfishness of her iMiliey is the only
plea that hislory will assif^n lo her in aecoimtiii|r
for Ik r pretensions in this matter.

Knjiland also (daces her claim to Dreijon ii|>on
the ri^dil of di.seovery. f.et lis examine this:

TIk first Ihiglish vessel wiiieli visited that coust
was comiiianded by I'raneis iMaUe. lie entered
the I'acilie in ITTH; and. allboiiirh his invn eonn.
try was at peace with Spain, rolilied Ihe towns and
shi|is along the ^le.xiiMii coast with all the hardi-
hood and rccklessncssof a|ir:i lieedpirate, niidere.
ated siieli a sens ilioii alniii; the eoas! that his namo
was a terror lo Ihe people for a i" ill iiry afterwards.
After he had amused himself in this manner to
his salisfielioii. he saibd up 'h" coast to the 45111

j parallel of .North lalilu le. and then returned to the
.')H|li deirrie — ai'cijiled Ihe crown of the native
Prince in the name of his l^neen — cidled the conn,
try .New Albion — reliiiiiid lo lve,r|and. and was,
in virtue of the kiiii;hlliood eonlerred upon him,
clmn<(ed from a pirati to an honest irentlenian.

The p' rtionsol OriMronseen by Ihiikehad been
seen an e.vplored by Ihe .Spaniards several times

! williin the previinis thirty y< .us.

Sir 'J'lionias CaMiidish next came n|)oii the

: coast; hut did not see .so minli ul it as Drake hud.
The celebrated I'aplaiii Cook lollowcd Caven.
dish. He saw the coast in latitude l.'J and 48
decrees. He passed the Sirails ile f'uca wiMiont
.si'ciiid them, and anehoied in Nootka iSound on
the Itith of February, \'il'J. In trading with the
Indians there, he found th it they had wea|H)nsof
iron, ornainenis of bra.ss, and sjioons of .Sj)anisli

' nianiii'aelure. Noolka had bein discovered and
ociaiiiied hy the .Spani.irds 4 vears before Cook
arrived.

The snbseipicnt Ihiglish navigators — Mears,
Vancouver, and otheni — bo far as the Oregon coai

Trnvnl» in the Great. IfViVrn Pniiriet,

TRAVELS. .Vc

w,i5 llir (iilil III' llii'ir luliorn, wrre iuIIhwimk in lliol
Ir.ifks |iniiilc-i| out liy iIip prrvloiix ilisi-nvcrirn of
tlip Spiniirds.

So riids tlir clniin of niis;lund lo Orccon on tlir
rinlil of prior (li-X'ovcry. \;<oppoM(| to Kn;;!.!!!!!,
Spiin'H ri^^hls on lliis principle wire iniiiiilolililc.

Ity till' Iri-ity of Kloriili, r;iliticfl l''ilirti;irv •-'•.M,
IHl'.l, Spiiiii <Milcil lo llic I'liihdSliilix 111 1 ri;;lilh
ill the (.)rc!ioii 'I'frritory. in llic rollowiiii: wohIh :
" Mia Ciiiliolir MiijcHly crdcM to llic s;i.id t'liilid
States idl his iii;litM. cluiinn mid prrliMisionx !o
liny iPirilorirs r ikI and iiorlli ol s lid Wnf ; " iin'aii.
ill); till' I'Jd paralli'l of moiIIi lalitmli', runiMn iic-
iiifj at llic head waters ol llic ArliaiiKa«, mid niir
niii;j went to the I'liciCic ; " and lor hiiiiHel!', liin
liJB licirH and wirpoHPorH rciioiiiiccM all claiiii to
the Raid tcrrilorii k lorcviT."

Hill the L'liiled SlatcH have ri;;htK lo Orrjjon
which ol llicinselves annihilate the pietensions
iiol only ol' i;n;;laiid hilt the world, llur eilizeiis
(irnt diHCovcred that tlie country on which Noot-
ka Sound is iilnaled was an island — tliev lii'st
imvijiateil thai part of the Sirails ile |''nia lyiinr
iH'twi'cn I'liiMfN Soimd and t^iieeii ('harlolte'H
Inland, and diKcovered the main coast of Xorlh-
wt'Bt America, from latitude H to .'ill de^rrres
north. Ainoriran citizens also diRcovercd Queen
C'hurlotle'i! Island, sailed around it, and discovered
the main lanil to the east ol it, as far north as lat-
itude ;').")''. l',iiu;laiid can show no discoveries he-
tweeu these latitudes as important ns these; and
consoqiienlly has not equal rights willi us, as n
disoovcrer, to that ;mrt of Ore;i;on iiovtii of the
4!Mli decree ol laliludc. \Vc also discovered
the Columbia River; and its whole valley, in !
virtue of that discovery, accriicH to us under the
laws of nations. One of these laws is that the
nation which discovcrH the inoiitli of a river, hy
implication discoveis the whole eonnlry watered
hy it. We discovered the inoiilh of the Colnin-
bia and most of its hramhrs; and that valley is
ours as astainsl the world. Ours, also, hy jmr.
chase from Spain, the first discoverer and occu-
pant of the coast. Ours hy prior oecupanev of
its (ircat River and Valley, and hy that law
which gives us, in virtue of such discovery and
occupancy, the territories naturally dependent
upou such valley. Wo are the rijfhtful and sole
owner of all those parts of Orcfion, which are
not watered hy the Colninhia, lyin^ on its iiorlli-
ern and Minthern iHirdcr, and which, in the Ian- j
guage of the law, are nalurally (li pendent upon li oidv response of these martvrs lo hnniaii snpre.

CUVPTKR I.

Tlir. Hpnili/niui— Till- Diiliiiiil ion— Tlir Kiliiraiinn n(
.Mu'f^ — 't'hf Hmila Ke Trmltfrii— Tin* MoriiKnii— Tli«'
IImIV W.ir -Kiiiriinrp ii)K>ii 111." Imtim 'IVrrllnrV— A
hi ii'iii'— All Kih-itiitp ni'iil— A ljO%«— A lluiil— Tlii* llmiKe
Ui.cr— \ Ml I liiii: lui I IViriinsf- Knnz iii< Imliiiis— An In-
itt.iii t'liii'iinipnii-nt— (^finiiril Oriivc— Kiiln*— An Imlinn
anil 111* W.iiit — Kik— .\ riMii|ic»l— Ciipiiin Ki-lly— A Com-
fiirllcNs Ni^lil,

On the '.'Ist of >ray. HHil. the author anil six-
Ircii otherH arrived in the town of liidcpindencc.
Mo. Onr dcsliiiation was the Oiejron Territory.
Some of onr iiinnher soii;;hl heallli in the wilder.
iiesM — others Min(,'iit the wilderness for its own
Hake — and still olhi rs souifhl a residence aiiioni;
the aiicienl loiests and lofty liii;hlH of the valley
of llie Coliniiliia ; anil each aelualed liy his own
peculiar rcanins ol interest heiraiihis piep.ir.itionn
lor leavini; the rrontier. I'aek iiiiili s and horses
and pack-siiddles were purchased and prepared for
i service, liaeoii iiiiil Hour, salt and pepper, siilli-
eii'iil fur ini) niilis, were secured in sacks; onr
jiowdcr-casks wire wrapped in painleil canvass;
and laryje oil-clollis were purchased to protect
these and onr sacks of clolhiiiix I'ioin the rains;
our arms were ihoroiiijiily repaired; liiilli Is were
moulded ; puwder-hurris and eap-hoM's tilled ; and
all else done that «as deemed iieeeiUnl, liefore wii
struck onr lent lorllie Indian 'I'errilory.

Hut Im role leaviii;; this little woodhnid town, it
will he inlerestin;,' to remenilHT that it is the usual
place of rcnde/.voiis and ■•oull'it" for the overland
traders to Santa I'V and other .Mexicii" .States, hi
the month of Mav of each year, these tiaders cou.
^reijate here, and liiiy larjre I'ennsylvaiiiii wa(jons,
and teams of mules to convey their calicooB, cot-
tons, cloths, hoots, shoes, &<•.&<■., over the plains
to Ihtit distant and hazardous niarkel. And it is
(|iiile ainnsiu'T to a ' ,rrccn-liorn," as tho.sp are
called who Inve never liceii rn^a)red in the trade,
to .see the midi s make their first atlempt at prac-
tical piilliiiir. 'Till y iire harnessed in a team two
upon the shaft, and the rcmainiler two abreast in
lonij swiiiirinjf iron trices. And then by way of
initiary iiiliinaliou that they have passed from a
life ol mouoloniius .'onteniplatiou. in the seclusion
of their nurscrv pastures, to the bustling; duties of
the "Sanli I'l' Trade," a hot iron is applied to
the thijjh or shoulder of each with an eiiihrace so
cordially warm, as lo leave there, in blistered iK-r.
feelioii, the initials of their last owner's name. —
This done, a Mexican Spaniard, as chief muleteer,
inonnis the liirhl-hand wheel iiinle, and another
the left hand one ol the span next the leaders,
while four or live olhi is, ns |i)ot-};iiard, stand on
cither side, armed with whips and thongs. The
team is sir.iiiilileiicil — and nov.' comes the trial of
passive obeilii iiee. The chief niuleteer gives the
shont of march, and drives his long spurs into the
sides of the .'iniiual thai bears him; his compan-
ion before lollows liiseAample; but there is no
movement. A leer — an uue.irlhly bray, is the

till
or li

ami

tioii

sum

prei

hill

disi

it. Oregon 'I'errilory, lor all these reasons and
many others which will be found in the energy '
with wliicli, if necessary, our citizeuB will defend i

niai'v. Again the team is straightened; again
the hlfKidy rowel is applied ; the body-guard on
foot raise the shout; and all as one apply the lash.
The untutored animals kick and leap, rear and

it, is the rightful property of thcue United States, li plunge, and fall in their hamcBS. lafina. tbau«

in the Hockij Mountains, the Oreeon Terrilirri/, i^v.

Sec.

I'Im- Kiliiniiinn nf
'■ MnriiKiiia—'rhi'
iin iVrrlinrv-A

lluiii-Tlie liMiiii'

II. Iii.llii,«-Aii In.

llllln._/\„ |,„||„n

"I Kwiy-A Cniu-

■I'llluir 1111(1 nix.
Iiiilc|>iii(|(.|iir,
U^i>li 'IVirilorv.
ill till' wilder.

■™ r>>r itH own

■sidcilCC IIIIKIII^
'" 'll'lllf Vhllcv

|| li_v liis Kuii

■ |'i'|iir,iii(iii»

nil > ^iiid liorM'S

iiid prepared lor

<\ l>l|'P"''. Nlllll.

IN s.ickH ; our
iiili'il I'liiivnKH ;
<w<l to protect
■')iii Ihr riiiiiH;
; ImiII' Is vverfi
•vi'N lilled ; iiiid
ill'id, l)eforoH(!
ilory.

"lliiMil (own, it
it is llie iiKn.il
irllie overland
icir Sliii.K. I„
■KO li.idern eon-
Viinia Wiijronn,

• CMlicOTR, cot.

"verlhrpluins
'■'• -VnclitiK

ill* tlio«c uru
il in tlie Iradf,
'■mi't at pnic-
I" '1 Irani two
v<> al)re»Ht in
I'n l)j' way of
[>!i8Kcd from a

tile Hcclnsion
lin(r (lulicaof

i« applied to
II I'liiliiaep so

WiKlercdjHT.

<.T'n name

lii-riniilelier,
■ind another

llir leaderB,
I'll, stand on
l"llJfN. 'I'll,,
» Ilic trial ot
■''I' «ivfK the
I'lirsinto (he
liis eonipan-
tliere in no
"'•ly, is the.
iiiiin Kiiprp.
|'<<I ; afjain
y-tjuard on
'ly tl>c lash.
J), rear and

the rmilo ; and gcncrnlly enceeod in breiikini ncrk
or liiiili 01 Koine oiii of ilirir nnniher, iinil in raiH I
iiiu a tiiiiiiilt III. 1 1 w I.I ill! (Ill en lilt to any order of :
iiniinals uceiisloiiiiil to Imi:; i ar:i.

Alter a lew lr.iiriiii:;s. Iinuevii'. ol tliix ilii.iiip. i
lion. tl|(y move oil' in tine slyie. \iiil. allli(illi.'h
wiine liieklesH oiii' mnv at iiilervuU lir.ice liimmir, ;
lip to an imeompi'iimiHinir re- ixtaiiec ol kiicIi en. {
eroieliinenl upon Ins Ireedom, xtill, the iii.i|(iiily ^
prelrrriiiu passive oliedieiiee to active p' llmi;, dratr
iiiin onward, till. liUe tli('in.<elveH. IiiniiIiiiiiIh tu tlie i
diHi'ipliiie ol the Iraci H.

'Independence' wax the I'iihI lucation ol'llie Mm:
»i(iH.s' West ol the Mississippi. Hire they laid out
tfroimilH tor tliiir trmple. ImiiIi the ' Lonrs store,'
und in oilier ways prepared the place tor the per.
inunent eRlahlislmiiMl ol their eiimnuimly. Itiit,
heenmintr oi>iio\i(>iis to their ni'ii;hl>iirs, they
crossed the Missniiii, and romiiled the lu.Mi ol ' I'ar
\Ve;i|.' In IhlH ihiy reeoimm need rerl on prac.
tie(Hof their hiilh in their new ahode, and Wi're
ejectnl iVoiil the State hy its iiiililaiy lorciM.

I'he inislortiiiK s ol' thoc piiipl|. seem to h.'ive
arisen Iroin plai'liciiiir upon ei riaiii rides ol a( lion
peculiar to theii'.^elyeH. 'I'lie haMS of these rules
is the ussiiiii|ition that they are the " Saints ol the
AIohI lliirji," to hIioim the i.ord promisi d ol' old
the inheritance ol' the earth; und that as siieli
they have the riijht to take possession ot wlial.
ever tliey niay he inspired to desire. .Vny moans
are jnstitialile. in tlieir Ik lief, to hriii^r alHiiit tlie
restoration to the "Chihlieii ol' (ioil" ol lint
which lie has he(pieathed to them. In ohedienee
to lliese rules ol action, any .Morinon or •' Latter.
Day Saint" lahoriin; lor hire on a "worldly"
man's plantation, el.iimed the rigrht to dirrct what
iinprov(.ments should he mnde on the premisis;
what trecH should he leMed, and what (rroinids
should Iroiii lime to time he eidtivaled, II' this
prerogative (d siiintship w(.ie (luestioned hy tin
warni.hlooiled .Missoinians. they wen- uith jfri at
coolness and (rravity iiiloiineil that their uodly
servants e.\p(-(-led in a short liiiie to he in com.
fortahle iM)ssession ol their iniployeis" premises;
tor that the Latter |)a\s had eoiiie, and with them
Iho .Saints; tli.it wars and carnai;!' wi-re to he e.v.
peeled; und that tin- l,aller.|)ay Trophet had
Irnrned, in iiis eiiimnimicatioiis with the Ciiiirt ol
Heuvrn. thai tin Missonriaiis were to he e.vler.
niinated on the first enlarirement ol the holders of
" Zion ; " and that over tin- (jraves nl tlm.se " eiie-
niies of all riirhteonsness" would sprinif that vast
spiritual temple that was ■• to till the earth."

The provpeet of heiin; tlnis iminolaleil upon tlie
nitur ol .Mormonisni, did nut produce fo iiiiich
hmnihty ami tremhlinir amonij tluw- hardy I'ron.
tiersmen as the pidpl'.et .loe liad henevolenlly ile.
sired. On tli(
that their thro:

was r(-sisteil liy some rntliless and sinful act of
self-deleiiee; and he denniieiatioiis of the

holy hrotherlKHid we.e impiously scorned as idle
words. However, in spite of the irrelijrions wiatli
of these deluded, henighted .Missonriuns, the .Saints
cut timber wherever tliey listed on the domains
that were claimed by tlie people of the world.
And if the " l,ord's hoj;s or imifes " wanted corn,
the farms in the hands of the wicked were re.
sorted to at u convenient hour of the iiiirht for u

eontraiy, the pious inlimation
s would lie (-lit to jrkirily tJod,

Mlpplv. Ill nil Ihene cniici', llie "Sainti" iiliilii.
h'sted II kind refard to llie lia|ipiness even of llie
elieinil b of lliiir t.iilh. Tor whelievi r they l<Mlk
corn I'idlll lielil> in po-^seMi ion ol the Wiillij',. peo.
pic, tiny not only avoided i.\citiii;r unholy wratli
hy allowinir thriiiselyes to In- hcrii ill tin- net, lint,
in order that p(-acc mlpjit reiim ii: the hosoms of
tli(. wii-ked, I yen, the loiimsl possible tlliii, ihey
Hiripped that |M)ilion of llic harvest tiehl which
would he last wi n by the iiiiifoillv owner

The' ( h III I'll iinlitaiit.' linwi ver, beinir iiielhcienl
and weak, the I'rophet .loe declared that it WHS
their (inly to use tthateyci mi ins the l.oid iniithl
fliinish to slrciii;th(-ii thcmselyes. And as one
powerful iiK ans would he the kcepini; its doiil)iH
as mni-h as poshibic liom the world, il wan, lie
s.iiil, the will of Heaven, icvealed to liiin in
)ii'oper form, that in no case, whin called k-fore
the ini!£odly li.hnuals ol this perverse and blind
(leneratiuii, shuiild they uveal, for any cinw-, any
matter or tliiiij; thai michl. in its eoiisefpn-nces.

brinir upon the biothi rl d Ihc inlhclioiis ot those

preli-iided mils of .Iii^lice. by the woild (-:illed
Laws, riiil(-r till' pidteciion of this piuphecVi a
band ol the bretlii'(U was nrftanm'd, cdh-d the
"Tribe of Dan," whose duty it was to take and
brill;; to the " I/ird's ul(ii(-." ni the far Wi-st. any
of the Ixinl'a personal estate whi.h they iiiit;ht
lind in the possession of the world, and wliich
iiiiiiht b(- iiseliil to the •■ .Saints" in adyanciii(f
their kingdom, (ireat ifiMid is saiii to hav<! Ik-ch
(lone by this Tribe of Dan. For the liord's store
was soon tlllid. and the Saints praised the name
of .loe. 'I'he rrophel's l.ici shone with the li)tlil
of an all.siihdiiiim ileliubl at the iii.-reas(. of " Zi.
on." and tin- etlicirncy of his ndmiiiistration.

The .Missonriaiis. howe-.er. W(-re destitute of
the Latter Day I'.iilh. and of just views of tln-
riiibls (Il vised to ihoye. who. in the Lord's iiiune,
should dolroy his adyersarns. .iiid rt-store the
earth to the ilominiuM of milli iiial riirhteonsness.
l'(H)r mortals and deluded sinners 1 They believed
that the vain und worldly eiiai-lniinls ol Ic.
^'islative h(i(ii(S were to pri vail against the
inspirations of the Latter Day I'rophi t ,Ioe ; and
in their iins.metilied zeal, declared the Saints to
Ik. thiey(-s. and uniust, and mnrdiroiis; and tlie
tribe ol Dan to be a pest to theconstitntionulund
ai-knowb (li.'i(l inherent and natural riirht to ae.
(|iiir(-, posMss, and (iijoy prop( rty. Froni lliis
honi'st liidi rince of opinion arost- the '• Morinon
War," wlioM- ureal eveni;: — are they not recorded
in the b(K)k of theehronieles of the " Latter Day
.Saints''' Some »'yents iberc were, liowevcr, not
worthy to liinl record thvri , which may be rela-
ted In-re.

'I'he Cloyeriior (d' .Missouri ordered out the State
Irisips to fi^ht and subdue tin- Mnrinons, and
lak(- Iroiii till ni the pioperty which the " Trihc
of Dan'' had deposited in the •■ Lord's brick
store" 11 the "(-itadcl of /.ion," cslled "Far
West." It U'iis in Is!).-* they appoared helore the
camp of the -• Saints" and comm.inded llii-ni to
siirreiidLr. It was done in the inanner hereafter
described. Ikit before this event transpired, I
am informed that the Prophet Joe opened hi^
mouth ill the name of the Lord, and said it had
bcin revealed to him that the scenes of .lerioho
Were to be re(.mieti.(l in I'ar \Vi st ; that the an.
, gelie liost would ajipcar on the day of buttle, and

Travfls ill ill Grtnt ]Visl(in Prniiirs,

liy llnlr ikiwit L'ivi' victory to llir " S;u;it»." —
Anil Id lliiH (Mil III' iiriliiril a liii :ih|.\viiiU I'l' iiii'li
pilir liiiiirilK III III' riiimil iiroiiiiil llir r.iiii|i, In
HJinw liy lliiM III Ml' luiili rllmi iijfiiliul llir iiilillrry
iif llinr li« M, lliiil llii Ir vln ii!,'lli wmh in llir" lirriihl.
|iliilr III' ii!;li(riiiitni'n ." mill lliiil liny wili' llic
Nililii rx III llii' unlit, ml |iiiitii>ii iil llir Kiiitrilniii
111 ll'iivill. 'I'lhii Uiir liliiliii Ills 111' invlul MIS.
|i> lisr III llii' r;iiii|i III llir "S;iililn." 'llir Mis.
Niiiri liiiyiiiii'N liriKlliil liiiirlillv iiriir llii'ir iiiiKh,
mill nil ih'imsmiiimI Inilli I I'.iiili'sKly |ii'iii tr:il' il the
|ilnr.liiiliril nilll|i.il'l, rrL':irillr-H ul llir illlllliitinn
III ilir I'mpliil. 'i'lii' III .i\ I'll" wirr I'li/i il ii|m.ii
liii'llii' NJiiniii^ liiMl, iiiiil listi iiiii:.' riirn tiinii'd to
iMlrli till' niHliiiii; III' wim;,'h IIii'(iiii,'Ii llir liii|iiliiir.
Till' ili'iiiaiiil III .^iirniii.'i I' \\;\h airniii Iillil inriiill
rr|iral( il ; liill h'iiilli liail Hri/.iil oil liiipi', mill Dr-
lay waH llir ritl's|n iiiir.

At this iKiirliiri' ul' iilliiirK, a nliirily nlil .Misfim.
rimi a|i|ii'iMirlii'il llir InicU ^llll^, pii'kaxc in liaiiil,
apptiri lltly ili'lriliiinril to iln \iiili iii-> In llir wii'icil
(l('|Mi)ii' iiy. (llir 111 till' KislriN 111 nilicMir wliili'iir.
roHt ,11111. mill with prnprr siilriiinil v niailr kniiu'ii
lliat till' '• l.iPiil iil'ilir l-'ailliful ' had liM aliil niito
.lor. llir I'riiplirl. Iliil iMTy liiiiiil raiwil a|/aiii;.|
thai " liiilv Hiriirliiii " xvuiilil iii'^liiiitlv hr willirrril.
'I'hr rniiilici'Kiiian hrsitali il. Iiiil llir liarihliixiil
rharartciistir nl thi'M' iinii ul' Ihr rillr irliiriiinir,
hr rrpliril. " W rll, olil lmI, I'll 1:11 it mi mir liainl
any linw." Tlir awiiil Mow was hlriirk ; Ihr
linild (lid nut wither! " I ilmililrs up now." Kaid
(he daring ni::ii. iiiid with holli hands iiillirird a
lii'Hvy hlow upon a rorioT lirirk. It Innililril to
till' (ri'onnil. and tlir luiildiiiir ipiirkly It II iindrr
till' wriirlit ol a llioiisaiid viyoroiis arms. 'I'lir
ronlidrncr ol tin- Saiiils in tin ir I'roplul wanril.
and a Miirrrndrr lollowi il. Sonu' of 11

hr piiiiripal
men wrrc put in riislody. hill the main hoily wrrr 1
prniiiltt'd to Iravr the Slair without Carllirr 1110.
Irslation. W r allcrwanl mrl many ol llirni
with lliiir 111 rdn. iVr., on llir road troni FarU'isl
to t^iiinry. Illinois. || u.is ^lr(lnl;lv intinialrd liy
Ihr plaiitrrs in thai si riioii ol' ('oiniliy. tli;it Ihrsr
I'lniliraliiid ■■ lainis" loiniil lar;;(' ipianlilii s ol'tlir
•• I,oii1'm rorn" on Ihr •,\ay. wliirh tlirv a|ipropri.
lid as need siigijcHti d |o their own and tlirir aiii. 1
in. lis' wants. j

'I'll;- orijfin of the '• Hook ol "Mormon" was Cor :
some tinir a niysli ly. liilt rrn nt drvi loprinriits
provr il to havr lirrii wnlti n ill \i^\:i liy llir Id \-.
Solomon Spaiildinir. ol .Vrxv ."salriii. in Ihr Stair
Hhio. It was eoniposrd liy that (frnllrman as a
hisloriral roniaiiee ol' the lonir extim't rare who
limit tlir mounds and torts wliirh arr sriittrri (1
over the valley Slates. .Mr. Spailhliiiir rrail the
work while eomposinir it to some ol' hi.; Iriends,
who. on the appeai'aner of the hook in print, were
so ihoroiiLrldy eoiivinei d ol'ils idinlily willi lliero. '
iiiaiioc ol llirir dreeased pastor, thai scireli waH '
iiiadr, and the on<;inal nianiiseript loimd ;inioni,r
his papers, lint their was yrl ii marvel how the 1
work I'onld have [;ol into the h.indsol Joe Siiiilli.
On I'urlher investisralion. liowevi r. il appean d Ihit
tlir Kev. author had enlerlained llaaiyhts ol' piili- 1
hshini; it; and, in pursiianec ot his iiiti iition. had
permitted it to lie a loii<j time in the prinliii^
otlirr in wliieh .*«iilney Uiirdon, who has li|;iiredso '•
]iromiiiently in the hislorv of the Mormons, was at '
the tiino employed. |{ii;don, doiilitless. copied
jKKJr iSiuiuUling's novel, uiid with il, and Ihu aid ii

ol' Joe .Smlih, has Miccicdcd in hiiildiii); np n cyK.

II III ol siipi istilion. wli'i'li, in vili in rs and ImIix'.
, hood, is le.irccly iipialid hy that nt Mahomet.

I .^'ohimon .^paiddin^ waH u ;;riiiltiati ol Dart-

[ limiith Colli lie.

On till III nil olMay, We rnmidourKi Ivcspri pan d

{ to nioM' lor the li'diaii 'I'l rrilory. Our pack. sad.

; (III H Iil iiii' till ii ,ot'i' iiiria d upon the mninals. oiir
K,ii ks ol piii\isions \c. Mindly lai-hi d upon llirlii,
and pi'oli ell d in, in llii' rain that had l,i >;mi In tall,
and I'lii*-! Ivi H wi II iiionnli d and iiimid. wr took
Ihr road llial leads oil' hoiilliw < si I'lom Indipeml.
I nee in the (linclion ol ."^aiita l''e, lint lla rains
that li.iil aeconipanii d li: daily since we lei: I'co.
ria, Nl I III! d di tern 1 1 lied In 1 seorl lis still, our ill-lia-
'tiired Hciowls III the conlrarv nolw illislaiidiui;, —
We had Ir iveird only three miles wl|i u siieh tor.

I niilii lell that wc louiiil il mciisaiy to take fhel.

I Icr in 11 111 i!;hliorinii school. house Idr the niiihl.
It was a disni,il one ; hut 11 hla'/ini; lire within,
and a iiirriy >on<_r Irom a jovial mi iiihcr nl our

J conipaiiy imparled as inu< h consolalion as our
ciri'nmrlaiii'iN seeiiii d toiliniaiid. till we ri spouil.

III to the liowlin'i storm the sonorous evideiici h
III' ^wel I and i|iiiit slnnihi r.

'I'lir lollow iiijr moriiiin.f i '. clear and pleasant,
and wr were early oil ou. .u.ilc. \\ c ci.issed the
stream called liiij 111 lie. a trihiitary of the Missouri,
alioiit I'io'cl •'', and iipjiioaehed the horderol the
Indian ilomaiiis. .Ml ui re an.xions now tosce and
liiiL'iT ovi r ( very olijcel ihal reiiiindid us wc were
still on the coiiliiics of that civili/ation which wc
had iiilii riled I'lom a Ihonsand ircncrations ; a vaNt
mid iiiioerisli ihlc h iriiey ol civil and mcial hajipi.
ness. It was. Ihcrelore, paiiiliil loapproach the last
fmiilier ( uclosure — the last hahilatioii ol the white
man— llic last semhlancc of home. 'I'lie last ca.
liin at Icnjith was approai lied. We drank lit the
well and liayiled on. It w.is iiowheliind UK. All
was heliind us with which the syni|iatliicH of our
yoiinjr days had miMi;lcd their holy mcinorii s, —
Hclorc lis werethc In I li ss plainsof (rreeii, asllicv
li:iil hi 111 since the tlnoil — heanliliil, nnhiokcn hy
liiisli or rock ; uiisoih d Ky ploiii;hor t pailc ; sweetly
Hc( nil il with till lirsl I li>ssoiiiiii;> ol the sprilljr.
'I'llev had hei 11. since lime 1 oiiiinciiccd, ilie llica.
Ire III ilie Indians' prowess — ol their liopcK, joyH
and sorrows. Here. I,y nations, iik the eve of
deadly lialllc cUisi d iiroinid them, they hail knelt
and raised the votive oircriii'.; to lliavcn, and ini.
plored the lavor and priiti etioii of thclircat Spirit
^yllo had fostered their fathers upon the wnitry
mounlaiusof the .\ortli ; and when hravcly dyilijr,
h'.id hornc them to the islands of litdit hi ncatli the
seltiiiir siin. .A lovely landscape this, lor an In-
dian's mi dilution! lie could almost heliohl in
the distance where the plain and sky met, the holy
portals oi his after Kl;.ie — so mazy and lieaiiiiful
was the scene !

Ilavimr li'iveled ahont txvcutyf'ivo miles over
this Lcaiililnl prairie, wc halted on the liankn of
a small sin am at a place called Klin (iroyc. —
Here we pitched oiir lent, tied our horses tostakcH
carried lor that pnipose. and alter considerahlc
dillicully havintr olilaincd luel for a lire, cooked
and ale for the first time in llie Indian 'rerritory.

.\l this encampment linal arran^'cments were
niailc ior our joiiinev over the Prairies. To this
end pi'iivisirns. arm: . aniiiiiinilinr., packs and pack-
saddk'H wtrc ovcrliuulcd, and uii uccouiil taken of

our
diiul

"I'fx 1111(1 Ciili.e.
"I Miilimiii t.
iilii.ili >,l /)„r(.

"■' lvi>|ir( (iiiri,|

"lir|i;i(K.Mi,l.

I' Kiiiiiiiili.. iiiir

'"' 'II'MI fllclii,

' I'::mii III lull,

ll""l. \\V IlKilj

'IN liiili |ii ml.

"ill llii riiliiN

»'■ l<i I'ci.

"lill. 'iiir ill-iiii.

llif^l.iiii|jn;j

'i' II Mii'li Ifir.

'" likr ^\u■l.
'"' 'III' liit'lil,
'. liri' H-itliiii,
ml" T ol our
•ili'iii lis oiir
line r(H|i()ii(l.

11 I viilciir-iH

"ml |ilrili-.illl,
'■ <■l.l^N(•|| III,.

• Ill' .MiHrtiiiri,
'''irdi rill ilir
'»■ 1(1 wr mill
' IIS «(■ wen-
'II uliicli «|.

'ii'iin; II v.-iKi
i-'i'-i.il liMjijii.

"iicli llirl.'iMl
_"lllic«liil,.

'I'll!' I.'IHI l-il.

Iliillk lit llir
lillll IIH. All
"liKs III' our
iiciiiornK. —

<■' II. llNlhcv

I'lliiokcii liy

'!'•; sviTtly

llir Hjiriinr.

'I. ;lic llici.

lldpCK, JOVN
llic cvi' ol'

■ liad kiicll
II. nnd ini.
■ri'iil .Spirit
I'll' wnitry
■<I.V <lyiii^;,
' iiciitli Die
for II M Jn.
lo'lidld ill
'Mllcll.ily
I Ix'iMiiiri'il

ililrs nyrr

l':illl(H (if
(iroyi". —
'londikcH
it^idcriilili.
f, codkcd
I'crritory.
Ills wori'

'/'o lliin
iKljiack.
tfikcn of

in the Rnrli) ^fulnlains, the Oregon Territory, S/v.

ti- . ■■; ■

our rommoii ^tock ofpomlH fur irndr with ilic In. I Tim next dny wr. nmdr .\\m\it \') milfn thruiiKh

dinnn. The rr^nlt (if iIiih rx imlinlioii w.nn, llial llir mud niid r.iiii, nnd Htoppcd fnr Ihi" nighl near

wn dill riiiinid In rcniim licrr a ulnli' nnd noiid | ii wililnry trrr iiixiii ihr liink of a xmnll tributary

buck to llii Kaii/aiis ImiIi:iii mill I'nr -''10 pouniU i of the [iomdi river. Mrrr fortune favorrd our

of lloiir. We well imlii I to lake lliiH Kleji liy i fiisl-deprcnHiirr larder. • liie of the eoinp.iny killed

nMiiriineoH rrecived Iriiiii eertnin IrailorM whom wr ii liirlle, wliieli fiirnii'lied iin nil nil txrellrnt

nift I'oiiiiinf from llie iiiiiiiMlaiiiH, that llie InilVnlo i mipper. 'I'Iiih waH llic indy jfaiii' of any diwrip-

hid not iiilvaiired so l:ir north ;m In fiiniiHli iiit . lion lliiil we liiid neeii Kinec lea iii|r the fnmlicr.

with their riiie liuinp.nliH iih cirlv liy a week or
lortiii^;lit IIH we had rxpi eted. (l|Vii'ern wercnlBo
ehoHiii mid their pnwirH ili lined ; and whatever
leiHiire we loiiiid friiiii the^e ihiliiH diirini; u larry
of two dil^H, w :iH Hpeiil in re^jidiiiLj iiiir>.<'lveH with
htrawlierni H ;ind (roosehi rrnH, wliii h (,'riw in (;rcal
idinndiiiiee iieur niir euiiip.

Dm Irii iiiIk liavmif retinniMl from llio mill with
the llniir liir wliieli i lad Imi ii <le8|i.ilelicd, we
left Kim (irove lai Hie .iii f .liine, traveled iiliinir
the .Santa I'e Ir.iil alHiii, . .iiiIcm, and i ni'am|MMl
upon a hiu'li knoll, rroin which we had an exlen.
hivr view of ilie Hiirp. .niliii!; plains. The i;ra8K
was now alioiit :.eir inelie- in Infill, and lieni and

On the Till, UN llie sun wan Botlinj;, we rniehrd
OHaL'e Kiver — a Hlreain wliieh empties into lllo
.MinKiiiiri helow Jellirwin City. 'I'lir |Hiint whore
we Nlniek it, wiin IUII inilcH HoiilhwrKi of IndriH'ii.
denee. We pilclied our lenl Hnii(,'lv hy a I'opmiof
w'lKiil within It few yarilH (•! it ; Hiaked down our
iimmalH near at hand, nnd prepared nnd ate iiitllO
usual foriii. our evenini; repiiHl. Our eompnny
wa.-. divided into two mewKH, M'ven In one, and
ii(llit in the iillirr. (In the (rround, with CBch n
lin pint eiip and a Ninall round plale of the nnnin
inatriial ; the lirsl lilleil with eotf»i', Ipn, or wa-
ter, the last with fried side haenn nnddiiu(;h fried
111 fat; eaeli with a hiiteher.knifii in hand, and

re Inly iH'auty under llie (JUsIh of ' each iiieHH oiltini;, tiiilor-like. around itH own fry-

rose III inoiil

wind that at iiitervals sw. ,il o' • r it. We reniiin-
ed here a ilay and ii half, wailiiii; for two of our
niindier who hid |roiie in M'areli of a horse that
had left om eneampiiieiit at Kim (irove. The
tune, however, pnsseil a(jreeahlv. We were, in-
deed, lieyond tlic .saneluarieH ol Hoeiety. nnd wv-
ered Irom the kind |iiilsalioiiH of friendship; hut
tlir spirit of the Keii .Man, wild and rrireless ns
Ihe storms he liiitVels, U^an toeiiine over us; and

ini;'pan, rntini; with Ihe ap|M'llte of ti(rora, wni,
perhaps, the tMite.ensemhle oiour company at ■up-
per oil till' huiiki of the ()Ha);e.

There were encamped near iih dome wagonfini on
on their return to Miswjuri, who had liren out to
Couneil (irove willithe proyiBioiiHand that pqrt of
the (tooiIh of the .Santa Fe tradrm, wliieh the trntns
of untrained iiiuleii had liren iinnhle to draw when
they left Iiidepeiideiice. Willi iheHeiiien wepuuHcd
wp sliouhli red our rilles and irallnjM'il nwuy for a i a v-ry aurei'iihle eveiiinj; ! they ainiiHrd lis with

deer in the lines of liinher thai threaded tlii' west-
ern liori/oii. Onrlirsl liiinl in llii depths of the
lieaiiliriil and dr ailliil v ilderuessl It was alleiid.
ed with no siieeess ; Imi was worth the elVort. —
We had heiriiii to hiiiil our fooil.

In llie afliriioon ol the llli. our friends relnriied
with the strayed animals. 'I'iie keepers iimnedi.
ntely tired the siirnal-dun?. and ull wc re mmiii in
rump. Our road on lln ."illi was Ihrou;;!! a rieh,
level prairie, elolheil with the wild (fruns eoinmon
to the plains of the West. .V skirt of hlaek oak
tiiiiher oeeasioiially lined the hori/.oii or slrayeil
up a deep ravine near the trail. The extreme eare
of the pioneiTH III the overland Santa l"e trade was

every where nolieiahle, in tlii! fait that the track j near the fire, and, with the most iinpcrturboblc
ol their rielily-loadcil waijoiiH iievnT approached } eulmncss, commenced Hiiiokiui; the eoiii|)ound of
within inuskcl-shol of these |«iiils of tinilMr. Fif. ^ willow. bark and tobacco with which they are
teen miles' inarch liroii;rlil us to rnir place of en- \ wont to resale Ihciiisrlvcs. When wc Iclt the
runipiuent. A cerlain portion of llie Company ground, one of the men threw away a pair of old
.Tnottcd to lliat lalmr, unpacked the ('oinpaiiy'ij boots, the soles of which were fuHtened with iron
mules of the coimuon-stoek pnjperly, provisions, I nails. t)ur savage viBilers seized upon them with
aininuiiilions, &,o. ; another [lorlioii pilclied t)ic | the greatest eagerness, and in their pantominic
tent; iinolher gathered wood and kiiiijled a lire ; language, aided hy harsh, guttural grunlB, CJn-
wliilc otliers hioiiijht water, und still others put grutulated themselves upon iK'coining the posscK-
seelhing.pols iiiid liyiiig-|>aiiK lo their appropriate i sors of so iiiuch wealth. At 8 o'cljck wo were
duties. .So that at this, as at other times liefore on inarch.

yarns of mouiitain-lif' which Irom time to lirne hod
tloated in, and formed Ihe tire-side legi nds oi ihat
wild iHirder. In the iiioriiing, while wc wcro
saddling onr :inim-ils, two of Ihe Kauzaiii IndiaiiH
came within a lew rods of ..iir camp, nnd waited
for an invitalioii to approach. They were armed
with iimsketB and knives, 'i'lie inanner of car-
rying their firearms was peculiar, and strongly
eharaclcrihtic of Indian ca.ition. The breech wan
held in the right hand and the Imrrcl rested on the
left arm ; thus they are always prepared to tire. —
They watched us narrowly, a8 if to ascertain
whether we were friends or foes; and, upon our
inakiuir signs lo them lo approach, they lookscatN

und after, a few miinites transposed our little
eavalcadc from a moving trixip into an eating.

'I'he morning breezes were bland, and a thou-
sand young flowers giinincd the grassy plains. It

drinking and joyous eainii. A ihunder-slorm vis. , seemed as if the tints of a brighter sky nnd the
iled us diinng the night. The lightning was in- ] increasing beauty of the cartli were lifting the
tensely vivid, .mil the cKplosions were singularly 1 clouds from the future and Bhedding vigor upon

freipieiit and loud. The sides of the heavens
warred like conteiiiliui.^ batteries in deadly conflict.
The rain came in Hoods ; and our tent, not U'ing
ditched around, was flooded booh after the com-
meiicemenl of the storm, and ourselves and bag-
gage thoroughly dreii'-hed.

our hopes. But tliii' illusion lived hula moment.
Three of my valuable men had determined to ac-
company the wagoiierB to the Stales. And as they
filed olVand bade adieu to the enterprise in whieli
they had embarked, and blighted many cheering
expectations of Bocial uitcicoursc along our weary

Travels in the Great Western Prairies,

way-faring to Oregon, tin c,\prr8Pion of deep dis. '
coiirafrempnt shnrlrd cvpry fair. But it was of
»hort duration. 'J'lic drtcrniinalion to prnetnile
tlie vallrys of Orrgon soon swrpl away rvcry f<'<l-
itig of depression ; and, two lunitorH being pent lor.
ward to repleniiili our larder, we traveled hapjiily
onward.

tlio nercRBity wliicli we supposed exiisted of keep-
ing a flinrp look-out among ilH green rr<-ChseB lor
till' lurking savage. Tliif grove is tlie Northern
limit of tlie wanderings of the C'umanches — a tribe
of Indians who make their home on the rich plams
along the Western Ixirdeis of the Heptdilic of
Texas. Their ten thousand warriors, their incoin-

The Osage River at this plaee is 100 yards wide, ' parable horsemanship, their terrible charge, the

with about S.J feet water. Its banks are elollicd
with tiinber of eotton-wood, >\yh andhiekoiy. We
eroRsed it at 8 in the morning; passed through
the groves which border it : and eontinned to lol.
low the .Sant.1 I'e trail. The portion of rouulrv
over wliich it ran to-day. was imdulating and
beautiful ; the soil rich, very deep, and intersect.
rd by three small streams, whieli appeared from
their eourses to be tributaries of tlie C>sa[Te. -\t
night-fall, we found ourselves upon a bight over-
looking a beautiful grove. This we supposed to
be Council Grove. On the swell of the hill were
the remains of an old Kauzaus encampment. A
beautiful clear spring gushed out I'lom the rock
below. The whole was so inviting to iis, weary
and hungry as we were, that w,' determined to

uiicqualed rapidity with which they load and dis-
charge their lire-arms, and their insatiable hatred,
make their enmity more fearful than that of any
other tribe of aliorigines. yortuuately for us, how-
ever, these Spartans of the plains did not appear;
and right merrily did we cross the little s,ivannah
between it and Coimcil (Jrove — a lieautil'ul lawn
of till! wilderness ; some of the men hoping for the
sweets of the bee-tree ; others lirir a shot at a tur-
key or a deer, and still others that among the
drcmj)ing boughs and silent glades might be found
the panting loins of a stately ''Ik.

Council (Irovc derives its name from the prac-
tice among the traders, from the eominencemcnt
of the overland commcree with the Mexican do-
minions, of assembling there for the appointment

make our bed for the night on the spot. Accord- of otTiceis and the establisbmentof rules and regu-

ingly, wc fired signal-guns for the hunters, pitclird
our tents, broke up the boughs which bad been
used by the Indians in building their wigwams,
for fuel, and proceeded to cook our supper. 'I'his
encampment was made by the Kauzaus sixjears
agq, when on their way .^oiith to their annual
buffalo-hunt. A semi.eircular piece of ground
was enclosed by the outer lodges. TiiC area was
fdlcd with wigwams built in straight lines run-
ning from the diameter to the circumference. —
Tlicy were constructed in the following manner :
Boughs of aliout two inches in diameter were in.
serted by thi^ir butts in the ground, and witlied
together at the top in an arched form. Over
these were spread blankets, skins of the butValo,
&.C. Fires were built in front of each ; the grass
beneath, covered w ith skins, made a delightful
couch, and the Indian's home was complete. —
Several yards from the outer semi-eircular row of
lodges and parallel to it, wc found large stakes
driven firmly into tlie earth lor the puqiose of se-
curing their horses during the night. We appro-
priated to ourselves, without hesitation, whatever
we found here of earth, wood or water that could
be useful to us, and were soon very comfortable.
About 9 o'clock our signal-guns were answered by
the return of our hunters. They had scoured the
country all day in quest of game, but found none.
Our hopes were somewhat depressed bv this result.
We had but 100 pount-'s of flour and one side of
bacon left ; and the bull'alo, bv the best estimates
we could make, were still 300 miles distant. The
country between us and these animals, too, being
constantly scoured by Indian liuutrrs, aflbrdcd us
but little prospect of obtaining otlur game. We
did not, however, dwell very minutely upon the
evils that might await us ; but having put our-
selves on short allowances and looked at our
horses as the means of preventing starvation, we
Bought rest for the fatigues of the next day's march.
In the morning we moved down the hill. Our
way lay directly through the little grove already
referred to; and, however we might have ailmired
it» freshness and beauty, we were diterred Ifom

lations to govern their march 'rough the danger-
ous country South nf it. They first elect their
("ommander-in-Chief His duty is to appoint sub-
ordinate leaders and to divide the owners and men
into watelus, and to assign them tlielr several
hours of duty in guarding the camp during the re-
mainder of their perilous journey. He also divides
the caravan into two parts, each of which forms
a column when on march. In these lines he as-
signs each team the place in which it must always
be found. Having arranged these several matters,
the Council breaks up; and the Commander, with
the guard on duty, moves olT inadvaiiceto select
tiie track .ind anticipate approaching danger. —
Alter this guard the head teams of each column
lead otV aliout thirty leet apart, and the others fob
low in regular lines; rising and dipping glorious-
ly ; 2(10 men, 101) wagons, 800 mules; shoutings
and whippings, and whistlings and cheerings, are
all there; and, amidst them all. the hardy Vunkees
move iiappily onward to the siege of the minesof
.Montezuma. Several objects are gained by tliis
arrangement of the wagons. If they arc attacked
on march by the Cumanehc cavalry or other foes,
the leading teams file to the right and left and
close the front; and the hindermost, by a similar
movement, close the rear ; and thu.< they form
an oblong rampart of wagnn.s laden with cotten
goods that efl'ectually shiel.'s teams and men from
the small arms of the Indians. The sam; ar-
rangement is made when tl.cy halt for the night.

Within the area thus formed are tmt, after they
arc fed, many of the more valuable horses and
oxen. The remainder of th- animals are 'staked'
— that is. tied to stakes, at a distance of 20 or 30
yards, around the line. Tiie ropes by which they
are fastened are from 30 to -(O feet in length, and
the stakes to which they are attached are care,
fully driven at such distances ajiart as shall pre-
vent their being ent.iiigled one with another. —

Among the- ■ animals tJie guard on duty is sta-
lioned, standing motionless near them or crouch-
ing so as to discover every moving spot upon tlie
horizon of night. The reasons ataigned for tliis,

entering into the full enjoyment of the scene by i by those who urc wise in such matters, arc that a

in the Hotky Mounta'tns, the Oregon Terrilery, 4'C.

■xistcd of keep.

• n rrooHscs (or
» llir Norlhcni
mcluH — a irihe

till- ricli plains

• Kcpiililic of
s, thrir incom.
If oliarjTo, tlio

load and din.

atial.lcliatiod,
1111 that of any

ly for us, how-
id not appear;
ittip K.tvaiinuh
iH-autifiil lawn

hojiingforlhe

sliot at a inr.
It among the
iii^ht l)c Ibund

^rom the piac
minii npcmont
■ Mexican do.
! appointment
iilcH and rrgn.
;h the danger,
ret ileot tlieir
a appoint sub.
iierH and men
tiieir several
during there.
[e also dividrj
whirli forms
f lines lie as.
I imist always
veral mailers,
inlander, witli
aiicc to select

ig danger

fach eolumn
he otlicrs fol.
ling glorioiiB.
s; slioulingH
lieerings, are
rdy Yankees
the mincBof
lined by tliis
arc attacked
)r other foes,
nd left and
by a similar
> they form
witli cotten
nd men from
e sanu ar.
ir the night,
t, after they
liorseB and
are 'staked'
of 20 or 30
wiiich they
length, and
J are care.
» eliall pre.

another

duty i« sta.
or crouch.
)f upon the
ed for tfiis,
, we that a,

guard in motion would lie discovero<l and firrd !
upon by the caution!-' iiavii<re befoie liis presence i
could lie known ; and f.irtlnr. tinil it is iMijiossi.
blc to (liwern the appioacli of an liidiai, crceiiiii^'
among the grass in the dark, inilcss the cnc of (lie
observer be m) close to the ^noiiiid as to bring llic |
whole surt'aee lying within the range of vision be- '
tween it and liie line of light aiiiimd the lower
edge of the horizon If the camp be attacked, the !
guard fire and retreat to i le wagons. 'I'ln; whole,
body then take ]iosilioiis lor ilcfence ; at one timet
sallying out, rescue the'r animals IVoni the grasp;
of the Indians; and at another, concealed behind
their wagons, load and lire ii|ion the inlriidird with '
all possible skill and rapnli'y. Au'l many v.< re :
the bloody battles fought on lii- ' tr,(il,' and such
were some of ihe anxielii s and diMiircrs that at. '.
tended and still alteiid the 'Santa Ii' 'rradi-.' —
And many are the gravcsalonir llietrack.<if those
who have fallen liclore the terrible cavalry of tl,-!
Cunianches. 'I'liey slumber alone in this ocean I
of plains. Xo tears bedew their ijravcs. No la.
ment of atVcction breaksthc stillnessof tlieirtoinb.
The tramj) of savage horsemen — Ihedeei) bellow.
ing of the butlalo — the ni;.'htly howl of tliehinifrry
wolf — the storms that sweep down at midniiilit
from the groaning caverns ot the 'shining bights;"
or, when Nature is in a tender niooil, the sweet
breeze that seems to wliispi r among the wild
flowers that nod over his dust in the spring — sav
to the dead, " Von are alone; no kindnd boiics
moulder at you.' side."

We traversed ( ■oiincil f irove with the ranie cau-
tion and in the same manner as W( had the other,
a plat(X)n of four persons in advance to sec tln'
first appearance of an ambuscade; behind these
the pack animals and their drivers ; on each side
an unincumbered horseman ; in the n ar a platoon
of four men, all on the look.ont, silent, with
rifles lying on the saddles in front, steadilv wind-
ing along the path that the heavy wamjiisol Ibe
traders had niadeamoni;' ihe matted under-brush.
In this manner we marched half a mill' and
emerged from the (irov<' at a place where the gen-
tlemen traders had a few days before held llieir
council. The grass in the vicinity had been
gnawed to the earth by their numerous animal." ;
their fires still smouldering and smokintr ;

and the rul^ .n the road were fresh. These indi-
cations of our vicinity to the great body of the
traders produced an exhilaratin;; efl'eet on our
spirits ; and we drove merrily away aloii!.'' the trail.
cheered with renewed hojies that we should ovi-r.
take our countrymen and be saved from starvation.

The grove that wc were now leaving was the
largest and most beautiful that we had passed
since leaving the frontier of the States. The tn es.
maple, ash, hickory. black walnut, oaks of several
kinds, butternut, and a great variety of shrubs
clothed with the sweet Ibliage of ,lunc — a pure
stream of water murnmrinu along a gravelly bot-
tom, and the songs of the robin and thrush, made
Council (irove a source of delighls to us, akin to
those that warm the hearts of I'ilgrims in the
great denertB of the F.ast, when they behold iVimi
the hills of scorching sands the green thorn. tree
and the waters of the Imbbling spring. For wc also
were pilgrims in a land destitute of the means of
subsistence ; with a morsel only of meat and
bread per day ; lonely und liungry ; and although i

wc were among the irrassy plains instead of sandy
wastes, we had fri'ezinir storms, temjicsts, torna-
does of lijilitninii and hail, which, if not similar
in the ineaiis. were certainly c(pial to the sand-
storms of the (Jreal .Sahara in the amount of (lis.
conifort tlu'v produced.

Hut we were leavin'r the (jrove and the protec-
tion it might yield to us in such disagrcealili' cir-
eiimslances. On the slinili'ess plain again I To
our right the ])rriirie rose ^radii illy, and stretched
away for ten miles, forming .-i beautiful horizon.
The whole was cnvcn'd with a line coat of grass
a foot ill hiiilit, which was at this season ol the
deepest and ricbi'sl irreen. Itehind us lay a dark
line of liuilH'r, reaebiiuf Irom Ihe (Jrove lar into
the eastern limits olsitjhl, till the leafy tdpsseeined
to wave .'iiid mingle among the grass of the
wil(l swelling meadows. The eves were ])ained
in endeavoring to embrace the view. A sense of
vastiiess — beautil'iil vastncss — was the single and
so'e conception of the mind !

Near this grove are someiulerrsliug Indian ru-
ins. Tl)e\ consist of a cnllectiou of dilapidated
mounds, seeming to indicate the truth of the
legenil of the tribes ivliieh savs that lormcrly this
was the Holy ground of the nations, where tliey
were accusloined to meet to adjust their difficul-
ties and ex.'haiure the salutalious of peace and ce-
ment the bonds of union with smoking and dan.
ciiitr and ]>rayei's to the (Jreat .Spirit.

We had advnncc<l a few miles in the open coun-
try, when we discovered, on the sunumt to the
richt, a small band of Indians. They proved to
be a partv of Caws or Kauzaus. An soon as they
discovered our approach, two of tl'.em started in
dill'erent diieclions at the top of their speed, to
spread the news of our arrival among the remote
members of the party. The remainder urged on
with all practical velocity their pack-horses laden
willi iiKiit. skins, blankets, and other parapher-
nalia of a biintinir excursion. We pursued our
way. inakiii!:; no demonstrations of any kind, un-
til one oil! brave lelt bis party, came towards us,
and stationing himself be^:ide our path, awaited
our near approach. He stood bolt u|)right and
motionless. -\s we advanced, we noted closely
bis appearance and position. He had no cloth-
inn;, save a blanket tied over the left shoulder and
drawn under the rijxhl arm. His bead was sha.
veil cntirily liare. with the e.veeption of a tuft of
hair, about two inches in width, extending from
the centre of the occiput over the middle of the
head to the forehead. It was short and coarse,
and stood erect, like the comb of a cock. His
figure was the perfection of physical beauty. It
was live li'ct nine or ten inches in bight, and looked
the Indian in every thing. He stood by the
roadside, apparently perfectly at ease; and seemed
to regard all surroimdiug objects with .as much
interest as lie did us. This every body knows iy
a disiiniiuishing characteristic of the Indian. If
a Iwilt of thunder eoiii.! iie embodied and put in
living form before their eyes, it would not startle
them from their gravity. .So stood our savage
fiiend, to all appearance unaware of our approach.
Not a muscle of his Irody or face moved, untd I
lode up and prolTered iiim a friendly hand. This
lie seized eagerly, and continued to shake it very
warmly, uttering meanwhile, with great empha-
sis and rapidity, the words " How de," "how,"

Travels in the Great Western Prairies,

"how." Ab soon ns one individual hud with-
drawn his hand Iriini his frasp. In' passed to ano.
thcr, rcpratinjf tlip sanir procrss and lliu same
words. From thr carcl'id watch wc lia<l krptiipon
his niovrniciits since he look his station, we had
noticed that a very dchcalc operation had hern
pcrl'onncd npnn the lock of his irnn. ."^onKiliiii^r
had licen warily removed lhcr<'lriini, and shppeil
into the leathern pouch worn at his side. U'.'e.v.
lu'cled, therefore, that the nover.failin'.' appeal to
our charities wonld he made for somrlliinir ; and j
in this wc wore not <lisappoinle<l. .As soon as the i
grcetiu'^s wore over, lie showed lis, with the most i
solicitous (re^tures. lli.it his |)iece had no Hint. — [
Wo furnished him with one; and he then sijrni- |
(lod to us that he would lik<' sometliini; to put in i;
the pan and liarrel ; and liavinu; ijiven him some, ji
tliinij of all. he de|>arted at the rai>id swiiijrinjgait r
so piTuliar to his race.

As wc advanced, the pr.-.irie liecamc inorr gen. I
tly nmhdalinif. 'I'lie heaving ridtres which ha<l i
made our trail thus far, appear to passover an ini- !
mense sea, the hillowsof which had been clianjred 1
to wavins; meadows, the instant thev had es. |
capcd I'rom tin' endiraces of the tempest, {rave |
place to wide and (fentle swells, scarcelv pcrcep. |
tihlc over the increased expanse in siiriit. 'IVn 1
miles on the dav's march ; the animals wc re tujj.
gin;; lustdy thronu'li the mud. when the advance
guard shouted " Klk 1 E'dk" a.ld "steaks hroiled''
Knd "rihs hoilcd" anil " marrow hones" and "no
more Inmin-rl'" " ( )re!.'on for ever, starve or live,"
as an a|)pointed inmiher of my eompnnions tiled
otV to the chase. I

The hunters circled nroimd thejmint of tlicshar]) |
ridce on which the HIk were fecdin<r. in order to j
hrin<r them hetween themselves and the wind:'
and layinp; closely to their horses' necks, they ]
rode slowly and silently up the ravine towards 1
them. W hilc thes' niovenients were makinij,
the cavalcade moved iiuietly alonu the trail for
Ihcpuriiose of divertinf; the attention of tlic Elk
from the hunters. .And thus were the latter eu;i-
liled to a])pro;ic]i within three hundred yards of
the came he|Vir<' thev were discovered. Hut the
instant — that awful instant to our (ruawing appe-
tites — the instant that they ]M'rceived the eroucli.
injr forms of their pursuers nearintr them, tt.ssiii!: j
their heads in the air, and snutliui_' disdainfully at i
such attempt In deceive their wakeful senses, Ihey
put hoof to turf in line style. The Imnters attem|)t-
ed pursuit ; lint havin;; to ascend one side of the i
ridLTi', while the F.Ik in their tliirht descended the I
other, they were at least four liundred vards (lis- |
lant helVire the lirsl hullel whistled after them. — |
None killed 1 none 1 -\nd we were ohiiired to
console our him'j;er with the hope that three hun-
ters who had hieii despatched ahead this morninir.
would meet with more success. We encamped
soon after this tninnevof ill luck — ate one of the
last morsels of fund that rem.ained — jiitclied our
tent, stationed the lULdit (iiiard. \c., and, laliirned
and faniishi'd. stretched ourselves within it.

On Ihefollowinifdav we made twenty. five miles
over a prairie nearly level, and occasionally marshy.
In the al'ternoon we were favored with what
we luid scarcelv liiiled. for asinsjledav to receive,
since the coimnencemenl of our journey, viz ; all,
several and sinjjnlar tlii' numerous henefitsofa
tiiuiidtr-storm, Ab wv went into camp at night,

the fresh ruts along the trail indic.itcd the near
vicinity of some of the Santa Fe teams. No sleep;
spent the night in drying ourdrenclicd Iwdicsand
elolhcR.

( )n the 1 0th under way very earlv ; and traveled
hriskly alonij, intendin^r to overtake the traderi*
helore nielli-fill Miit anollh-r Ihunder.slorm for
a while arrested the proseculiou of our desires. —
It was aliniit li o'clock when a hiack cloud arose
in the south-east, anollier in the south-west, and
still another in the nnrlli-cast ; and involvinj; and
evolvin;;- tliemselves hke lliose that ai;eompany
loruadfies of oilier eoimlries, the'- rose with awful
rapidity lowirds the zemlh. Mavin^ nujinh'd
their dreadlul masses over our heads, for a mo-
ment they slnitrt;led so lerrilieally that the winds
appeared liushid at the voice of their dread artil.
lery — a moment of din lid battle; and yet not a
lireath of wiiul. We looked up for the eomingof
the ealaslroplie fori'told hv the awful slillncKH ;
and behold the cloud, rent in fraifineuts. hy the
most terrilic explosion of electricity we had ever
witnessed. .And then, as if every enerjjy of the
destroyinir elements had been roused hy this
mijrhly <tl'orl, peal upfm peal ol' thunder rolle,!
aroumi, and up and down the heavens; and th •
burniuif bolts leaped from cloiul to cloud aer'/ss
the sky, and from heaven to earth, in such fcaclul
rajiidity, that the lurid fjlare of one had sca'.celv
lailen on the sii,'ht, when another followed of still
fircaler intensity. The senses were absolutely
stunned hy the conflict. Our animals, partakiuif
of the slupifyiii'j- horror tif the scene, madly hud-
died themselves loifetliir, and became innuovable.
They he'ded neither whip nor spur ; but with
; hacks to the tempi st drooped their heads, as if
waiting their dnom. 'I'lie hail and rain came in
torrents. The plains were converted into a sea :
the sky, overtlowimj; with floods, lifrhtcd by ii
' continual blaze of electrii^ lire 1 the creation trem-
bling at I lie voice of the warring heavens I It was
such a scene as no |)cn can adeipiatelv deserihc.

.After the violence ol the storm had in some do-
i gree abated, we |iursued our way, weary, celd anil
hungry, .\bout Ii o'clock we overtook a -lompany
; of .Santa I'e trailers commanded by f'aptain Kelly.
'I'he gloom of the aliuospliere was such when we
aiiproaelied his camp, that Captain K. sup losed
us Indians, and limk measures accordingly to dp-
fend himself. Having stationed Ids twenty-nine
nil n witliiii the barricade Ibrmed hy liis wagons,
he liiinsell, ai-coinpanied by a siinjle man, came
out to reconnoitre. .And he was not less agree-
ably afl'eeted to find us whites and Iriends, than
were we at the prospect of societv and food.
'I'raders always c'arry a supply of wood over
these naked plains, and it may be supposed that,
dretudied and pelted as we had been by the storm,
we did not hesitate to accept the otVer of their fire
to cook our supper, and warm ourselves, lint thn
rain continued to fall in cold, shivering floods;
' and. fire e.vei jited, we might as well have been
elsewhere as in company with our countrymen,
who were as badly sliellerecl and led as ourselveH.
' We therefore cast about lor our own means of
j comfort. -And while some were cooking our
j morsel of supper, otliers staked out the animals,
; others pitched our tent; and all, when laskH
! were done, hudilled under its shelter. We now
I numhered thirteen. This quantity of hiimun

flesh
diam
heat
some
|)i rs.

SOUiJ

bad

ablei

lll'li

iKiin

mal:

verv

day ;

llion

llie

as u

Ore;^

in the Bochj Mountaiirs, the Oregon Terrilori/, c^r

^.itrd the nciir
-aiiis. NoHlccp;
:licd bodies anil

y ; and travrlrd
ikc the lradt:ri<
undd-.Ftorm for
1 iiiir dcsircH. —
n'k cloud aropr"
oulli-wcst. and
I iiivolviiifr and
at ai'conipanv
•'jsc willi awliil
iving niiiijrici
ads, (or a nio.
tlial the winds
lir dread anil,
and yot not a
tin: coniinfroC
iwi'id slillnpSH;
minis, by the

V we had ever
enerjry of tlio

lused l)y iliis
llinnder rolle,!
vens; and lb •
n cloud acr'iBB
in such fearlul

V had soa'.oelv
)llowc(l of still
TO alisolulely
lals. partakiuif
c. madly hud.
lU-inunovablc.
|)nr; but with
•ir licads, as it'

rain came in
■<l into a sea ;
lighted by a
•realiou trcui.
•(US 1 It was
y deseribo.
id in tomcdo-
ary. cold and
:k a .onipany
aplain Kelly,
leh when we
K. sup )osod
•diufrly to dp.
twcnly-ninc
his wafTons,
man, oamo
lOt less njrrcr.
triends, than
tv and food,
wood over
upposed thai,
by I ho slorui,
T ot their tire
los. Uut Ihn
•rinjr Hoods ;
II have boon
oountrymen,
as ourselves.
ill n'eans (d'
eookiujj our
the animals,
when laskH
I'. ^Ve no\v
r ol hutnuii

llesli, slandinij upon an area of eijrliteon feet in
diameter, ijave oil' a sullleirnl (piaiilily ot animal
heal in a short time lo render our Iremblin;'; lorms
soniewhal eomrortable. We ate ..-'ir scanty sup-
pirs. drank the water (Vom tlie puddles, and
souirht r(sl. Hut all our p.ieks luiu;,' wet, \vr
had no ehau'ie of wardrobe that would have en.
aided us to have doTie so with a hope of success.
\Vi' however spread our wet blaiduts upon the
mud, pot our saddles mulrr our heads, had a soni;
Irom o{ir jolly .loe, a::;l nnisod and shivered until
morniui,'.

As till' suu of the I. 'till ruse, we drove our ani-
nuds li!roiij;li t'oKouwdid ereek. It had been
vciv uMicli swollen liy the rains nf the previous
(lav; and oiu' packs and ourselv(-s were again
thnroM^■h^v wet. liut, once out of the niin anil
the daiitjers of the Hood, our hearts lieat merrily
as we lessened, stop by step, the distance from
Oregon.

IIIAI'TKR II.

Scarcity nf K-ifnt—An Inri li'ia — Ii.i.iinfj niui I^IfatinB—
M*-H- «. K*'iil — 'I'rmlt — Liltic Artnin^fts— A N-iuht-iius
Mi-al-'V n, 1)1— An Oiin-l— A Ilnnl Uhlp-Tli.- IJcliver
am-.' — 'I'll*' Arkagsai; — An All-i,-k— i'l)*' Si.njlil|i(!e (il
Deaili — Tlif FfaM amt ii liit ol I'liil'istiptiy — TUe Tr.uleis
VViilwiiilli «';(! Alvan'Z'ii Teams— A Kri(jtil— A NnUiul nl
Ii.(liah>— 'i hrir ('anip niid Hums— A Treats- A 'IVili.
jv.l — Indian HuiclifrinK — A Hunt nniniig^ itte'ltutTrito — A
Wniinilt't M.in— \ Drive— A Slnrni ami ilsKneni\— Ni(/I)t
nni'ii IS tin- Uiiir.iln— Tlie Cnuniry ami II. e ll«>[iv-'-ri<. — 'iiic
Kuril— \ iMn'iny ami iis Cniiseqiiciurcs— Blislereil Fii ^'er
— IjiliTly- BfHl'.> Kurt — Dl^ttinHlill^.

Our liiiiiters, who had been despatchod from |
t'ouneil (Jriive in soach of gajue, had njoined us ;
in K'ellv's camp. And as our larder had not been
ini|iroved by the bunt, aiiullier party was sent out i
unler oiders to advance to the biitl'alo with all
possible alacrity, and sf'ud back to the main body
a portion of the tirst meat that should be taken. —
Tills was a day of mild and discomlort. Our
p ek and riding animals, constantly amioved by
the >lip|iery clay beneath them, became restilV, ■
ami iiol iulVcipiently relieved themselves nf riders
or packs, with little apparent respect tortile wish-
es of their masters. And yet, as if a thousand
thorns should liatchi 1 out at least one rose, we had ;
one iniMileul of lively interest. For, while halting \
to secure the load of a ))ack.nmlr. whose obslina. ,
ey woiilil have entitled him to that name, what-
ever bail been Ills form, we ispled upon the side
(d' a neighboring ravine several elk and antelope.
The men uttered pleas lor thiir stomachs at the
i-i'_ht of so imicli line meal, and with teeth shut
in the agonv of expi'datioii, primed anew their
rilles, and rushed away lor the prize. Hope is
verv delusive when il hunts elk upon the open
plain. 'Tills fact was never more painfully true
tiem in the present liislauee. 'I'hey were ap-
proached against the wind — the ravines that were
deepest, ami run nearest the elk, were traversed
in suidi manner that the huntsmen were within
rt'll) vards(d"tliembefore they Were discovered ; and
then never did horses run nearer lliclr topmost
Sjieed liir a slake in dollars than did ours tor a
steak of moat. Ilnl alas! the little advantage
gained at the start from the bewlld'red inaction of
the game, began to diminish as soon as those lit et
coursers of the prairie laid their nliiible hoofs to the
sward, anil pledged life upon speed. In tills e\i-
geiiev a few balls were sent wbislhiig after llieiii,
but they soon slept '11 the cuitli, iiisleud ol tlie

pimling hearts tlu-y were dr«ignrd to render piilpp.
hss; and wc retuined to our lonely and hungry
march.

\S ecnonmijod at runset on the banks of a branch
of the .\ikaiis;is. Our ratiiais wiie now rediieed
to one-eighth ot a |.hit of Hour toeach man. This,
as our ciistoni was, was kneti(kd with water, and
baked, or rather dilid. In our Irvhig-pan over a
lire siitilelently distltute of eoiuliustibles In ha\c
satlslldl the most lastldions miser in that llnr. —
Thus rel'reslied, and our clothing dried in the
wind during the day, we hugged our titles to our
hearts and slept smiiidlv.

'I'lie Mill of the lollovving ninrniug was unusu-
ally bright, the sky cloudless and ddlghtfullv
libie. These were new pleasures. Tor the heavens
and the earth luul, till that niorning, since oiir
departure liom home, scoiirgdl us with every (lis.
coiiriigcnient wlileli tlie laws of matter could Jiro-
ducc. .Now all aKMind ussni'ded. Dame Mature,
a prude though she be, seemed pleased that she
had belabored our courage with so little sneccKs.
.\ud, lo add to the joy of the occasion, a herd of
o\en and mules wore feeding and lowing upon
the op|)oslte bank ol llie stream. 'I'liev bolougfd
to the Messrs. ifeiits, who have a trading post
upon the .\rkansas. One of the partners and
Ihlily-odd men were on their way to St. I/iuls.
with ten wagons laden with peltries. They were
also driving down ^'(M) Santa To sheep, /or the
Missouri market. 'J'bese animals are nsiiallv
|imclia.-ed from the Spaniards; ami if lli(; In-
dians |irove far enough Irom the track to permit
the puridiasi r to diive them Into the Slates, his In-
vestiuciit Is imnsiiallv protitable. The Indians too
residing i.long tlie Alexicaii fronller, not liilVe.
(pieutly lind it convenient lo steal large numbers
of mules. \'e., t'rom their no less swarlbv neigh-
bors ; and from the case with wlileh Ihey acipiiip
them, rind themselves able and willing to sell
them lo gentlemen-traders for a very easily ar.
ranged conijieusatlon. Of these several sources
of gain it would siein lliP .Messrs. lients avail
themselves; since, on lueetlng the geiitb men hi
charge of the v.agons bi lore spoken of. heinlornied
us that he had lost thirty Ah xlcaii niulcs and
, seven horses; and desired us. as we intended to
■ pass bis post, lo recover and take Iheni \y,u\i. A
recpiest <d' any kind from a white face in Ihewll-
(Urness Is never denied. .Aecordluglv we agreed
lo do as he desired, if within our power.

W <■ made little progress lo-,lav. Our packs,
thai had been soaked by storm and stream, le-
(piired drying, iid !- r that purpose we went early
into camp. The eniiiilry In wlilidi we now were,
was by no means sacred lo safety ol life, limb or
properly. The I'awnee and ( 'umanche war-par-
ties roam through It during the spring and sum-
mer months, tor plinder and scalps. 'J'he guards,
wliiidi wc had had on I be ale rt since leaving Couueil
drove, wi>rc, tin lefore, earet'ully stationed at night-
fall among the anlmalsarouiid the tent, and urged
to the most careful walchliilncss. Hut no '»• nio-
, listed iij'. In the e.vprcsslve language of the gl.
aiil of our band, prelaiad always with an a|ipro-
prlale sigh and arms aklniho, " \\'e were not mur-
dered yet."

. .bout l"-' o'clock of the 1 lib wo passeal the Little

.\rkaiisas. Our Imntcrs bad been there the pre-

|i viQUs night, uiid hud succeeded in taking a dozen

Travels in the Great Western Prairies,

cat-fisli. Tlu'ir own keen lumber had dovourcd ;
a part of tliciu willioiit pepper, or sail, or l)read, :
iir vejTetalile. 'I'lie reiiuiiiider we foiinil utiaelieil !
to a liiisli ill the Ktreaiii, in uii liiiwliolesoille slate
of drcoiiiposilioil. 'I'liey were, liowever, lakeli im
and exaninu'd l)y llie senses of si(,'lil and smell al- .
ternalely I and viewi il and smelt a|;aiii in refennei'
to onr ravenous palates ; and illli"nt;li some donlit ■
may have existed in reirard tothi' llelin w principle
of devourinjj so nnclr^an a lliinir, onr appetitei< al- !
Iciwed of no demnrrintj. We roasted and ate as I
onr roinpanions had done. j

I had an opporlnnilv al this plaee to tiliservi'
the jrreat extent of the rise and fall of these
streams of llie plains in a sin^'le day or ni^dit. Il
wonid readilv l>e presinneil liy those who liave a
eorreet idea of the floods of water that tiiethnn-
der-stonns of this rejiion jionr upon the lollinjr
prairies, itiat a few I'ules of the channels of a
number of the ereeks overwhieh the storms pass
may I'c tilled to the lirini in an honr; and that
there are phenonu'na of Hoods and falls of water
nccnrrinj; in this vast den of tempesis, sneh as are
found no where else. Slill. with this evidently
true explanation in mind, it was with some dilll.
culty that I yielded to the evideneis on the hanks
of the Little .Arkansas, that that stream had fal.
Un 1.') feel during the last I'J hours. It was still
too deep for the safily of the paek animals in an
attempt to ford il in the usual w.iy. 'l"he hanks
also at the fordinir place were left hy the relirini;
flood, a most inilriendly (inai;nnre : so soft that a
horse \vitho\it hnrden could with tln' ^rrealcst dif.
ticnll v drair himself lhroui;h it to the w.iter IkIow.
In our e.xtrcinity. however, we lied oin- lasliin;:
lines lof;ether. and, attacliinix one end to a stronir
stake on the side we occMpicd, sent the other
across the stream and tied it lirndy to a tree. Our
bupffaijc, saddles and clothiiii,' suspended to hook.-
runuinir toand fmon thisline, were securely passed
over. The hors( s liemi;' then driven across at
llie ill-omened Foial, .and o.irselves over by swim,
miiifj and other means, we s.-iddled anil loade<l oi!r
animals with their several burilenn and ie.c;oin-
menced our march.

The Mill, l.'itli anil llith weie days oi' more
than ordinary hardships. With barely looil enoiijrli
to support lili — drenched daily by thunder-storms
and by swunininu '""I lordini; the nuinerons
drains of this alluvial rejfion. and wearied bv the
continual packiufj and unpaekin^f ol onr animals,
and enfeeliled by the dampness of .ny eoucii at
night, I was so much reduced when I (lisnioiiiiti d
from my horse on tlu' eyeniny of the llith. that I
was unable In loosen the (rirtli of my saddle or
spread my blanket lor re|)nse.

The soil thus far liom the Frontier ap|)eared to
be from 3 to (i feet in depth — jreuerally nndiila-
tiii(; and occasionally, far on the western horizon,
broken into ra(i|red and pieturisipie bliiU's. Hc-
twecn the swells we oeeasionallv met small tracts
of marshy ground saturated with braekisli water.

On the night of the Ititli. near thelioiirofl^
o'clock, we were suddenly roused by the rajiid
trampling of animals near onr eani|). "' Indians 1"
was the cry from '.iie guard. " Indians ! " We had
expected an encounter with them as wc ap.
proaehed the bu'Valo, and were eonseiiuently not
unprepared for it. Iv.ich man seized liis rilleaiid
was instantly ni position to give the intruders a

proper reception. On thev came, rushing furious,
ly in a dense eolnmn till within Hi) yards of our
tent ; and then whcelini; shoii to the left, abrupt-
ly hailed. \ot a ritle bd! or an arrow bad yet
eletl Ihe air. Xor was il so necessary that they
should, as it might have been, had we not disco,
yered Ihat instead of bipeds of bloody ineinory,
they were the ipiadriipeds that had eloped from
the f.itherly care of Mr. Hent. making a call of
cremony upon their compatriol mnles, &.r. tied
to stakes wilbin onr camp.

I i"lh. We were on the trail at 7 o'cloeli. The

sun of a tine morning shone upon onr ranks of

beasts and men. Were I able to sketch the wo.

shriveled visages of my starving men. eontorted

with occasional bursts of wrath upon -Mr. lieiu's

mules as they displayed their ungraleful heels to

us, who had restored them from the indeecnciiH

i of savage life to Ihe dominion of civilized beings,

' my readers wonlrl say that the sun never looked

y. upon biayrr appearaiiees. or a more determined

1 disregard of educated loveliness. Along march

before u- — the Arkansas and its Yish before us —

!; the biiliido with all Ihe ilelic.atc bits of tendcr-loi n

i and 111 irrow.boiies, the remembr.mce of them in.

'spires nil — with all tliise before us, who that has

I; the [glorious sym|)atliies of Ihe gastric sensibilities

within him, can suppose that we did not use the

, spur, whip and goad with a right good will on

i tiiat menioiHble day / Thirty or forty miles, none

but Ihe vexi d plains can tell which, were traveled

[l hy I o'clock. The afternoon hours, too, were

ij comiled slowly. H'eb blurt:-, and bules, and rolls,

[; and salt iieushes allernalely appearing and falling

j, hehiiid us, with here uid there a plat of the thick

j short grass of the upper plains and the stray

jj bunches of the br.ani'hiiig cobinmar and foliated

( prickly pear, indicated that wc were ajiproaching

I some more imiiorlant course of the mountain wu-

* lets than -.iw', we li.id yet seen since leaving the

ma|eslie .Alissouri. " On. merrily on," rang from

|; our parclii d and linncrv nioulhs ; and if the

cheerliil shout did nol allay our appetites or thirst,

,, il ipiickened the jiacc of our mules and BatisHed

|i each other of our determined purpose to ImIioIiI

i; the .\rk iiisas by the light of that day.

i' During lll!^ hurried drive of the allernoon we,

j heea me separated trom one anolher among the

, swellsoycr which onr Iraek ran. Two of 'be ad.

I vanee plate •■ 'ook the liberty, in the absence of

I their I'omn. .11 . ., to give chase to an antelope Ihat

i; seemed to tantalize their torbearance by exhibiting

his fine surloiiis to their view. .\eyer did men

better earn liiigiveness ur disobedience of orders.

One of them crept as I h-.irned half a mile ii|)on

his hands and knees to get williui ritle shot ol his

game ; — shot at .'tilt) yards ilistanee and brought

him down I And nov,-, who. in the tanieness of an

li enough. and-to.s)iare state of existence, in which

I every emoliou of the mind is siii'fi ileil and gouty,

j, can estiin.ite our pleasure at seeing these men gal.

Ij lop into our ranks with this anielope .' Yon may

j, •' guess," reader, you may ••reckon." von may

|1 •' calculate, '• or il learned in the demi-senii-qiiaverti

of inoderii exi|uisiteness, you may thrust rudely

aside all these wholesome and fat old words of the

heart, and •• shrewdly imagine " and still you can-

not eoin[irehend ihe feelings of that moment '. Did

;' we shout ' were we silent ' no, neither. Dili wc

ji gutiier ipiickly uionnd Ihe horse staiiit'd w ith the

iHliiiifT furious.
II y:iids r)f our
ln' Icll, iiliiupl-
iirrow li;i(l yet
s:ily lli:il tl'icy
wi' not disco,
oody inciiiorv,
:id eloped I'roin
akiup a rail ol'
lules, &.r. lied

I'cloelt. 'I'he
1 our riiuks of
nitetoli tile HO.
lien. I'liiilnrleH
"in Mr. lienrs

•.Tlcllll IllfU lo

he iiuleeeneii'H
ivilized liriiiirN,
1 novrr looked
re deleriiiined
A lone inareli
isli before tin —

s offender-loin
■e of Iheni in.
. who that han
e sensibilities
I not use the
Cood will on
rty miles, none
werp traveled
lurs, too, Were
ules, and rolls,
iiifr and fallinjr
lit of the thick
iiid the stray
r and foliated
•e niiproaehing
mountain wa-
'e leaving the
un," raiiK from
i; and if the
elites or thirst,
< and Hatisficii
insp to behold
ay.

alternoon we
r among tl,,.
'wo ol 'lie ad.
he absence of
1 antelope Unit
hy e.xhiliilinjT
ver <li<l men
iiep of orders.
a mile U|him
lie shot ol bis
and brought
inieness of an
ice, in which
'd and gout\ ,
lese men jjal-
? You may
ti," you may
semi-(iuavi'i»
hrusi rudely
words ol the
still you cull,
loineiit 1 Did
ler. Did \\c
icd with the

in the Roehj Mountains, the Oregon Territory, 8fc,

blofiH of thp Hiisprnded animal ? No, nor Ibis. An
involuntary murmur of relief from the most fear.
fill forpbodings, and tlir sudden ball of the riding
animals in tlirir tricks were the only movements,
the only acts that indicated our grateful joy at this
deliverance.

Our intention of seeing the Arkansas that night
however soon banished every ofbcr Ibougbt from
the mind. Whips ami spurs therefore were freely
used iijioii our animals as they ascended tediously
a long roll of prairies ciivereil with the wild grasses
and stinted stalks of the .^im-l'lowi'r. We rightly
conceived this to be the bordering ridge of the
valley of the .\rkiiiisas. Koroii attaining Its siiin-
niit wp saw ten miles of that stream lying in the
sunset like a beautiful lake curved among Ibe
windings of the bills. D was six miles distant —
The sun was setting. Tlie road lay over sirup rolls
of laud that rendered it nearly impossible for us to
keep our jaded animals on a trot. Hut the swtrt
water of thai .Vinericaii Nile, and a copse of tim.
her u|)ou its banks that olVercd us the means of
ciKiking the .-intelope to satisly our insnircrablc bnn-
ger, were motives that gave us new euergv ; and
on wi' went at a rajiid pace while suHicient ligbl
ii'inained to show us the trail.

When within about a mile and a half of the river
a most aimovingcircumstancc crossed our path. —
A swarm of the most gig.intie, and peisrvering
mu.sipiitoes that evi'r gathered Iribule from binnau
kind, ligbtpd on us and dciuaiidcd blood. Xol in
Ibe Icist scrupulous as lo the maimer in which lliev
urged their claims, they lixcd ibemsclves boldly
and without rereinony upon our organs of siglii.
smell, and whipping, the List not least in oursitii.a-
tioii.in siicb numbers, tint in conseipieuee of Ibe
Pinploymenl they g.ive us in keeping them at the
<listauce wliieb ii welLdelincd res[K'el ibr our di.
vine faces would have rendered proper, and in con.
cpienceof the pain which they iiitlieted upon our
restilV animals, we lost the Ir.iil. And now came
ipngmirps, Hoimderiiigs and mud, such as would
liive taught the most li.irdcned relnl in morals
that deviations from the path of dutvleul some.
tiiucM to pain, someliiiies to swamps. Doug per.
sevcrancp at length enabled lis to reai'li the great
" Kiver of Ibe I'lains.''

We tarried for a moment ii|h)ii the banks ol the
sireini, and east about to extricate ourselves Irom
the Kgyptian iilagucs around us. 'I'o reg.iin our
track in the darkness of night now mingled uilii a
dense fog, was no easy task. We however look
the lead of a swell of land that r.an across il. aiirl
in thirty minutes enleicd a path so well m.irked
that we could thread our u ay onward till we should
liiid wood siillicieiit lo cook our supper. This was
a dreary riile. 'i'he stars gave a little ligli! among
themisi, wliieb enabled us to liiseeni on the even
line of Ibe horizon, a small speck that after three
bniirs Ir.ivel we found to be a small grove of colton-
wood upon an islaml. We encamped near it. .\iid
alter our baggage was jiilcd up so as to form a eir.
ele of breastworks for deli'iicc, our wearini'ss was
such that we sink among il supperless. and sbpi
with nolhiug but \\\f heavens over us. And
although we weri'iu the range of the ('iimancbe
bunting as well a.s war-parlies, tin guard slept m
spite of the savage eyes that might be gloating
vengcancp \\\mn our little band. No fpar nor war
wliooj) could huvc Uokcn the Blumbcrg of tlial

night. It was a tPinporary dpalli. Nature hud
made its rxtremr etliirt, and tuink in helplcpsnCBH
till its ebbing pneigies should rpflow.

On the morning of tlip 18lli of June wc were ear-
ly up — early ninund among our animals to jmll
up the stakes to which they werp tied, and drive
them fast again, where iliey might graze while
we should eat. 'I'licii to the care of our noble
selves. We wrestled manfully with the frying-
pan and roisling.stiek ; and anon in the very man.
ncr that one sublime act always follows its prede-
ccssor, tore bone from hone the antelope ribs, with
so strong a gri|) ami with such unrestrained de-
light that a truly ))biloso|iliic observer might liave
(lisivivered in the llasli of our eyes and the quick
energetie motion of the nellier |)ortions of our
pbvslogiiomies, that eating, though an iinconi.
mou, was nevertheless our favorite occupation. —
.Vnd then " catch up," " sadilbson," "packs on,''
"mount,"' "ma'cli," all severally said and done,
we were on the route, hurry-scurry, with forty
loosp mules and horses leering, kicking and briiy-
ing; and some si.x or eight pack aniirals making
every honorable ellbrt to free themselves from scr-
yitiide, while we were applying lo their heads and
cars certain gentle intimations that siieli ambi.
lions views accorded poorly with their master's
wishes.

In uie course of the day we crossed several
tributaries of the .Vrkausas. .\t one of these,
called by Ibe traders Hig 'J'urkey Creek, we were
I'orced to resort again to our (.'bilian bridge. In
conseipience of the s|)ongy natitre of the soil and
the scireily of limber, tliere wa'e more difficulty
here in procuring fastenings for our ropes, than in
any |ircyions insl-auce. We at ienj;lli, however,
obiained pieces of tl(«)dwood, and drove them in-
to the soft lumks " at an inclination," «aid ho of
the axe, " of precisely l.') degrees to the plane of
the horizon." 'I'liiis supported, the slakc« stood
siiflieieiilly llrni for our puqioses ; and our bags,
packs, .<;elves, and beasts were oyer in ii ti'icc, and
ill the lialfof Ibal malhematical fraction of time,
we were repacked, rcmoiinted, and troltiiig' otVat
a generous ptice up the Arkansas. The riv."r iip-
pe.ired (|uite unlike the streams of the East, and
.'~^oulli, and Soiithwesl portion of the Slates i.'i all
its i|iialilics. lis biiiiks were low — one and ai'iall
feel above the medium stage of water, eompofcd
111 an allnvimn of sand end loam as li.ird as a pub.
lie highway, and, in the main, covered with u
species of wiry grass that seldom grows to more
than one and a half or two iiiebes in bight. Tlie
sunllov.cr of slinled growth, and a lonely IiubIi fld
willow, or an ill-shaped sapless, cotton-wood tree,
whose decayed trunk trembled under Ihc weight
of years, together with occasional liliitVs of clay
ami sajid-slone, formed the only alb vi iting fe*..
Hires of llip landscape. The stream itself was
geiieritlly three-quarters of a mill' in width, with
a <-iirrciit oi' five miles per hour. \:atcr tbree and
a hill.' lo limr feel, and of a chalky whiteness.—
It wa.s extremely sweet— so delicifiu.s that sonieof
my men declared it an excellent siil)!ilili.'l(' f"'' """'•

Ce.mped on the bank of the river \,bere the
eoin.aiou tall grass of the prairie grew pb.'U'i'"'-
ly — posted our iiiglit-guarit, and imule a p.li t "'
ov.v meat into a soup for supper. Here I shall t>c
expected by those civilized monsters who live by
caliug und drinking, to give a description of the

Travels in the Great IVrstern Prairies,

inaniicr of innkin? this soup. Il wiih iiulccd a
rare dish. And my Irinwls of iho troiiclicr — y'
who Imvr hrrri ppicrd, niid pcpiicrcd, ;iiiil sidled,
from your youlh up, do not liislorl your imsid pro-
tldieniiKTs when I dcckiro that of .-ill the vulvar
innovations U|H)n kitclicn scirrici' wliii'h <'ivili/.a-
tion has patched upon the '^'ood ol<l style of the
patriarchs, nolhin'j has produced so heaslly an I'f- '
feet upon taste, as Ihesi' self-same condiments of^
Fait, pepper, i!tc. W'oful heresy 1 human nalurc
pe|>perrd and s dtrd 1 Hut to our sou|). It was
iiiadi' of simple meat and water — of |)ure water,
such as kin;rs dranli from tlw streamsoflhe (rood
old land of pyramids and this; and of the wihl
meat oftlie wilderness, unl linted with any of the
albresaid <-ondimcnls— simply iHiilcd, and then
raten with sironi;. durahle irons|K)ons and hnleh-
cr-knivcs. Here I eaimol reslrain myself from
pemiini.' one slrou!; and irrepressilile emotion that
I well rememher crowded through mv heart while
strotehcd upiui my conch after our repast. 'I'hc
exceedinjr comfort o( hody and mind at that mo-
ment undoubtedly jjavc it heinj;. It was an emo-
tion of condolenee l()r those of my fellow mortals
who lire eniraiicd in the mamU'acture ol rhiunia-
tisms and ijout. Could they only lor .an hour en-
ter the portals of prairie liH — lor one hour hnatlie
the inspiration of a linntcr's Iranscendeulalism —
for one hour teed upon tin milk and honey and
marrow of life's pure nnpeppcred and nnsalled vi- 1
ands, how soon would they forsake that ii_rnol)le
emiiloyment — how s<,on would their hissiu'^ aijd
vulj^ar lahoi'atorics of diseasi^ and [iraves lie forsa-
kiMi. and the cruleh and lirandreth's pills lie ir;.,th-
rrerl to the loinlis of (he fathers 1 Ihit as 1 am an
inc'itTereiit practitioner of these suhlime leaehinjrs,
I will Jiass and mlorju my readers that the next
day's mandi terminated in an encampmeni with
the hunters I had sent forward li)r i.'aine. They
liad fared even worse than ourselves. I'our of
the seven days that tlcy had hecn ahsent from the
eompanv, they had been without food. .Many of
the streams, too, that were forded easily hy ns,
were, when they passed, wide and anirry Hoods,
'riicsi'lhcv wereohlifjcd toswim, toihe (freatdan-ij
•rer of then' lives.

On the IHtli, howc-cr. they oviTtook IMes.srs.
Wuhvorth and Alvarez's teams, and w<'rc ircated
with (Treat hospitality hy those ireiillemen. On
the sam(^ day the ' died a hull'alo bull, pulled cdl'
the tlesli from the l,,..:k, and conunenced dryin;; it
over a slow lire preparatory to paekin;;;. On the
niornin(f of the liMh, two of them started oil' for
us \yith some strips oi' meal danj;lin!j over the
shoulders of lli;ir horses, 'i'hcy met us about 1
o'clock, and witli n;; returned to the place of dry.
ing the meat. Our horses were turned loose to
eal the dry [rrass. while we leasted ourselves upon
roasted toniru<' and liver. After this we " caudhl
np" and went on with the intention of encamp,
injr with the ."^anta ['"cans, and after traveling
briskly onward for two hours, we came upon the;
brow of a hill that overlooks the valley of I'.iwnee
Fork, the larrrcst hraneli of the Arkansas on its
northern side. The Santa l''e traders had en-
camped on the east hank of the stream. The
wamins surrounded 'an oval jiiece of (ground, their
shafts or tonirucs outside, and the; I'orwai'il wheel
of each abreast of the hind wheel of the one he-;
I'ui'e it, Tliia arrangement g'dvc thcin u line uu- i

pect when viewed from the hill over which wc
were passini;. Hut wi' had scarcely time to see
the little I deserilie<l, when a t<'rrilic scream of
"I'awnecl" " I'avnec 1 " .'iro.se from a thousand
lonjriies on the farther hank of the river; and In-
dian women and children ran anil shrieked horri-
bly, " i'awnecl" '■ I'awnecl'' as they sou(rhl the
plens and hushes of the nciirhborhooii. \\ i' wi'rc
puz'^led to know the object of such an oulhursi of
savage delicht as we deemed it to be. and for a
lime tliou^hl that we miirht well expect om' hinod
to shnnher with the hull'alo, whose hones lay
blcachintj around us. The camp of the tradcrH
also was in motion ; anus were sei-zcil and horses
saddled with "hot haste." A mom<'nt more and two
whites were {ridlopi]i(r warily ni'ar us; a moment
more hroni,'ht twenty sava;;e warriors in full paint
anil pinmi' around us. .\ ipiiek rcconiioilic. and
the principal chief rode briskly up to me, shook
me warndy by the hand, and wilh a clearly ap-
parent Iricnilsliipsaid " .'^ai'ref(i;ilus"(holy lea;rue,)
" Kanzaus,'' "Caw." His warriors follo'ivcd Ins
example. As soon as our friendly irreetinifs were
discovered by some of the mijior chiels, tliey gal-
loped their lleil horses at full speed over the river,
and the women and chililrcn issued from their
concealments, and lined the bank wilh their dusky
forms. 'J'lie chiefs rode with ns to onr cam|)lni;
trround. and remained till dark, examinin;,' with
ureal interesi llic various articles ai our traveling
cipiipa'^'c- and p'lrticul.-irly our tciil as il unf'liled
ils broadsides like ma;rie. and assumed the form
of a solid white cone. Mvcry arraniji uienl hein(r
made to |ireviiil these aeeompllslied Ibieves from
stealinir our horses. &e.., we supped, and went to
make calls upon our neitrhhors.

The owners of the .'>imta l''e wairons were men
who had seen nmeli of life. Crbanc and bospita.
blc, they received ns in the kindest manner, and
};av(^ us much i;iformalion in rcirird tollw moun-
tains, the best mode of defence, iVc that [iroved
in our experience remarkably correct. Durinjj
the afternoon, llie chiefs of the Kauzaiis sent mi!
a nnmhcr of buH'alo ton(;ues and oilier choice hits
of meats. Hut the lillli discoverable on llieir per-
sons (jcnernlly delerred ns from nsin^' IMcm. For
this Ihry carred little. If their presents were ac-
cepted, an obliualion was, by their laws incurred
on onr part, from which we could only be relieved
by presents in return. 'I'd Ibis rule of Indian eli.
ipietie wc snbmilled ; and a council was aceord-
in;ily held between my.self and the priiicipal chief
tbrouixh an inlerprelcr, to delcrmine upon the
amount and fpadilyof my inilehledncss in this rc-
jrard. The final arranijement was. thai in cfin-
sidcr.ition of the small amount of properly I had
then in poss<>ssion. I would i;ive him two pounds
of tobacco, a sldcdiiiife, and a few papers of ver.
million; but thai, on my reliirn. which would be
in fourleen months. I should he very rich, and
jrivc him more.

'I'o all which obli'iations and pleasant prophe.
cies, I of course cave my mosi bearly eonenrrciua.'.
The ( 'aws, or Kanzaus. are notorious Ibieves. Wc
Ihereliire pul oni a double (rilaril al niu'lit, to wati'li
llieir predatory opi rations, with inslruelions to
tire upon them, if Ihcy uttempted to take our ani-
mals. Neither (.nrird nor instructions, however,
proved ol use ; for the tempest, which Iheexpiri.
cucedold Santa I'dulis liad tsccii mil"* 1<-'>1' "<■

in the Rocky Mountains, the Oregon Territory, tfc.

tliunclcr.cloiul in the nortliwrst ;it iimort, proved ii
more cnicR'nt protection llian the ;irui ol' man. — I
Th(; cloud rose nlowly chirini; the early part of the
ni(;lit, and iipprared to hanir in suspense ol'execnt- '
ing itH awful purpose. The linhlniuir, and lie.ivy
ruinblinp;of the thunder, were friuditful. Jt came
to the zenith aliout I'i o'cloeU. When in that po.
aition, the cloud covered ou<'-half of lh<' lieaveUB. .
and for some minutes was nearly stationary. Af-
ter this, the wind liroke forth upon il ul tlw hori-
zon, and rolled up the dark masses over otu" heads
— now swellin;r, now rendinof to shre<ls its im-
mense folds, lint asyel, not a lire.ilh olairnioved
over the plains. 'I'lie animals slnod motionless
iind silent at the speetaele. The nucleus of elee.
tricity was at the zeiiilli, and thence larjje bolts at
lust leapi'd in every direction, and liuhled for an '
instant the e.ulh and sUies so intensely, that the
eve could not tndure the liriirhtness. The report
that followed was appalliufr. The ground treni-
liled — the horses ami mules shook with lear, and
attempted to esi'ape. liut where could they or
our.ielveH have Ibunil shelter ' The cdoiids at the
next montent appeared in the wildest eonnnolion.
struafjjiinjr with the wind. " Where shall we tly '"
could scarcely have heen s|>oken, liefore the wind
struck our lent. tr)re the sl.akes from the (;n)nud.
snapp<'d the centre pole, and burii'd us in its en.
raged I'olds. Kvery man. ihirlei'u in nund)er, im-
mediately seized some portion and held it willi his
misht. Our opinion at the time w.is, that the
absence of the weiirht of a sinirle man would have
(riven the storm the victory — our tent woidd have
eloped in the iron embraces of the tempest. We
attempted to (il it uji a;rain .after the violeneeof the
storm had in some deirrei' passed over, but were
nntdile so to do. ."so that the remainder of the
niitht was spent in gatberinir u|)our loose animals,
and in shiveriufT under the cold peltinL's of the
rain. The Santa I'Vans. when on march throujrh
thesj plains, are inconstant e.xpcclalion of these
tornadoes. .Xceordiniily, when the sky iit niijht
indicates their approach, they idiaiu the wheels of
adjacent wa;,'ons stronfjly toffelher to pri.'vent them
from beinir upset — an a(u'ident that has olten hap-
pened, when this precaution was not taken. It
niav well be conceived, too, th.it to prevent their
(r(x)ds from beinir wet in such eases, reipiires a cov-
eriu:^ of no <ir(linary powersof protection. Dows
in the usual form, save thai they are hiylu-r, are
raised over louf; snidicn I'ennsylvania wagons,
over which are spretid two or three thicknesses of
woolen blankets; and over these, and e.xlemkd to
the lower cdfTc of the body, is drawn a slroni; can-
vas« covering;, well fjnarded with cords and leatlnr
(itrups. Thnnigh this covering these teiniJcsts sel-
dom penetrate.

At 7 o'clock on the morninj; (d' tbi''J7th, "Catch
up, eatidi up," rani; around the wafions of the
Santa Feans. Innnediattly each man bad his
liand upon a horse or mule ; and ere we, in atlempt-
jliU to Ibllow their e.vamplc, had our horses by the
luilter, the teams were harnessed and ready (or tlie
" inarch." .V nolde siirjit those ti ams were, forty-
odd in nundjcr, their innnensc waj^ons still unmov-
ed, forminj; an oval breastwork of weallb, girded
by an iin|iatient niaf;s of near 400 mules, harnessed
and ready to move again along their solitary wav.
But the interest of the sc<,'iie was nmch increased
wbcu. at tliu cull cit' the uoiuinanUci', tlic two li'K'f,

team after li-am, straiirhlcned themselves into the
trail, and rolled majcslically away over the undu-
lating plain. We crossed the Pawnee Fork, and
visited the ("aw Camp. Their wigwams were
eonslructed of bushes inserted into the ground,
twisled together at the top, and covered with the
bull'alo hides that they bad been gathering for their
winter lodgi'S. .Meat was drying in every direc-
tion. Il had been cut in long narrow strips, wound
arf>nnd slicks standing njirighl in the ground, or
laid over a rick of wiekor-work, under which slow
tires are kepi burning. The slencli, and the s(pi did
a|)pearani-e of the women and children, wcri' not
Mdllcienllv int<Teslirig to detain us long ; and we
traveled on forllie bull'alo nhicli were bellowing
over the bills in adv.inee of us. Tliere appeared
to be about I . "lOO souls : they were almo.st naked ;
and lillby as swim-. 'I'hey make a yearly bunt to
this region m the spring- — lay in a large (pianlily of
dried naat — relurn to their own (errilory in Imr-
vesl time — g.ither their beans and corn, make the
bull'ilo hides, taken before the hair is long enough
for robes, into conical tents ; and thus prepare for
a long and jollv winler.

They take wilh ihem.ou these hunting cxeur-
siiins, all the hor'^es and mules belonging to the.
tribe, lint can be spiU'ed from the laljor of their
lields upon (be Konzas river — no south till they
meet thi' butjalo — build their distant wigwams,
and commence their labor. Tliis is divided in the
liillowing manner between the males, females, and
children: The men kill the game. The women
dress and dry the meat, and ran Ibe hides. 'I'he
inslrumeiils used in killing vary with the rank and
wealth of e.ieh individual. Tlie high chief has a
lance, wi(h a handle six feel and liladi- three feel
in length. This in band, mounli'd upon a fleet
horse, he rides bobHv (o the side of (he (lying buf-
falo, and thrusis il again and again through the
liver or hear! of i>ne, and Ihen anolber of the af-
frigliled herd, till his horse is no longer able to
kee)) near them, lie is thus able to kill live or
six, more or le.-is, at .a single hea(. Sonic of the
inferior chiefs also have llii;se lances; but they
must all be shorter than I bat of his Uoyal Dark-
ness. The common Indians use muskets and pis-
tols. Uilles are an abomination lo Ihem. 'I'he
twisting motiiin of the ball as il enters — Ibe sharp
crack when discharged — and the direful singing
of the lead as il euls the air, are considered synip-
, loms of wileheraft that are unsafe for the red man
lo meddle with. Tliev call Ihem nicdii ines — in-
scrutable anil irresistible sources of evil. The
! poorer clashes si ill uselhe bow and arrow. Nor is
; Ibis, in ihe wi'll-lrained hand of the Indian, a less
, etVeelive w<M|)on ihan those already nienlioned. —
.Vstride a giHid horse, beside a b<'llowing band of
wild beef, le ininj forward upon the neck, and
( drawing his limbs close lo tbesidesof his horse,
; (he naked liimler uses his national weapon with
I astonishing dexterity and success. 2S'ol uiifre-
(pienlly, when liitlin;; no bones, does he throw his
'. arrows ipiile throuirb tliehuli'.do. Twenty or thir-
i Iv thus variously armed, advance upon a herd. —
'i'he chief leads the chase, and liy the time they
; conic along siile the band, the diH'crent speed of (ho
lior'?s has brought them into a single tile or line.
, Thus they run mitil every individual has a buffa.
lo at bis side. Then the whole line (ire guns,
I, tlu'ow anowit or diivc luiicc^i ai> ul'tvii uud m Igii^

Travels in the. Great Western Frames,

UB tho Bficcd of the horprs will iillciw ; iind wldnin
do tliey fail, in encounters of this kind, to hiy ii|)on
the dusty plain numhers of these noble animals.

A cloud of squiiws that had hprii lioverinir in
the nciijhlHuhood, now liinry up, astride of pack
iininiuls — strip oil' liidrs — cut olV the hcst flesh — [
load their puck-saddles, mount themselves on the
top, and move slowly away to the eamj). The
lord» of creation have llnislied their day's l.dtor. —
'I'hc ladies cure the meat in the m;in;iir deseril)e;l
above — Btreteh the hidi's u|kpu the i;roMnd, and
with n blunt woodin adze hew them into leather.
The younger shoots of the trihe durin'.' the day
arc eufjaffed in watcing and [;uardint; ti.e horses
and mules that have been used in the hunt — elian-
(jiuj their stakes from one spot to another of
fresh (rrass, and erouehinjj alouij the hiyhts
around the camp to notice the approach of foes,
and sound the alarm. Thus the Konzas, Kausans,
or Caws, lay in their anmial stores. Unless
driven from their jrame by the I'luvnees, or some
other tribe at enmity with them, they load every
animal with meat and hides about the first of .Vu-
puHt, and commence the march back to their
fields, fathers, and wijjwams, on the Konsas Riv-
er. This return march must present a most in-
terCBtinj; scene in savage life — 7tll) or i^dH horses
or umles loaded with the' spoils of the chase, and
the children of the tribe iKildiu'.; on to thi' packs
with midhi and main, iriUed as eels, and shining
with bntValo [;rease, their fallirrs . lul mothers
loapiuf; on foot behind, with their ^uns |)oi.><ed on
the left arm, or their bows and arrows swunij at
their back ready for action, and turnin'^ their
heads rajjidly anil an.xiously for lurking; enemies
— the attack, the scrcanvs of women and children
— each m.an seizing an animal lor a breastwork,
und surroundins thus their wives and children —
the firing — the dyini; — the contpicst — the whoop
of victory and rejoicin!r^■ of one parly, and the
dojjged, sullen submission of the other — all this
and more hi's occurred a thousand limes U|x)ii
these plains, and is still occurriji!;. Hut if vietn.
ry declare for the Caws, or they march to their
lioine without molestation, how many warm af-
fections spring up in their untamed bosoms, as
they see again their parints and children, and tho
ripened harvest, the wonds, the streams, and bub-
ling springs, among which the glci'fid days of
chUdhood were spent 1 And when greetings are
over, and welcomes arc said, cmbrai-cs exi-hanged,
und their homes seen und smiled upon; in fine,
when all the holy feelings of rcmi'mbr.ince, and
their present good fortune, find vent in the wild
night-dance — who that wears a while skin and
bcntimcntalizcs upon the belter lot of civilized
men, will not believe thai the Indian too, relurucd
from the hunt and from war. has not as much hap-
piness, if not in kind the s imc, and as many sen-
timents that do honor toour nature, as are wrapped
in the stays and lights of a fantastic, m;iwkish
civilization — that llattering, pluming, gormandi-
zing, unthinking, gilded life, which is beginning
to measure mental and moral worth by the
amount of wealth |)ossi>ssed, and the adormnenis
of a slip or pew in church. Jiut to our journey.
We traveled eight miles and encam|>ed. .V hand
of buffalo cows were near us. In other woids, wc
were determined ujmii a hunt — a deiermination,
Uvranaoauwu'AoaluihichjaB will hereafter appear,

were highly disastrous. Our tent having been
pitched, and baggage piled up, the lleetcst horses
tclecled, and the lies! marksmen bf si mounted, wb
trotted slowly along a circling depression of tlio
lilain, that wound around near the herd on the

. leeward side. When we emerged insight of them,
wc put the horses into a slow gallop till withi,!
.'10(1 yards of our game ; and then for the nimblest
heel 1 Jvich was on his utmost speed. We nil
gained n|K)n the herd. Hut two of the horses were
by the side of the lubbers before the rest were with-
in rille.reach ; anri the rillcs and pistols of their
riil"rs discharged into the sh'ck, well-larded Iwdy
of a iioble bull. The wounded animal did not drop ;
the ba'ls had entered neither liver nor heart ; and
away h" ran for dear life. But his unwie;iy fonn
moved Siower and slower, an the dripping blood
oozed from the bnllct-holes in his loins, lie ran
towards our lent ; and we followed him in that

' direction, till within a fourth of a niile of it, when
onr heroes of the ritle laid him wallowing in his
blood, a mountain of flesh weighing at least 3000
pounds. W'f butchered him in the following man-
ner : Having turned him upon his brisket, split
the skin above the spine, and pared it off as fur
down the sides as his position would allow, we cut
ofVllie flesh that lay outside the ribs as far bacli
as the loins. This the hunters call " the fleece."
We ne.ict took the ribs that rise perpendicularly
from the spine between the shoulders, and support

' what is tcrjucd the "hump." Thi?n we laid our
heavv wood axes u|K)n the enormous side-ribs,

■ opened 111'- cavity, anil took out the tender-loins,
tallow. &c., — all Ibis a load for two mules to carry
into camp. it wa'i prepared for packing as fol-
lows : The fleeiu' was cut across the grain into
slices an eighth of an inch in thickness, and spread
upon a sc.itrolding of poles, and dried and smoked
over a slow fire. While we were engaged in this
process, inlbrmilion came that three of .Mr. Heiit's

' nudes had escaped. The proliabilily was that they
had gone to the guardianship of our neighbors,

' the Ciiws. This was a misforlune to ourhonor.i-
ble intention of restoring them to their lawful
owners. Search was immediately ordered in tho
Indian camp and elsewhere for them. It was

. fruitless, 'i'iie men returned with no very favor,
able account of their reception by the Caws, and
were of opinion that farther searidi would be in
vain. Hut bring disposed to try my influence
with the principal chief, I gave orders to raise tho
enmp and follow the Santa FOiins, without refer-
ence to my return, and mounting my horse, in
conipanv with three men, sought his lodge. Tho
wigu ams were deserted, save by a few old women

' and soualid children, who were wallowing in dirt
and grease, and regaling themselves upon the

' roasted intestines of the buffalo. I intpiired for

i the chiefs — for the mules — whether they theni-
j selves were human or bestial ; for. on this point,
i there was room for doubt : to all which inquiries,

] they gave an appropriate grunt. But no chiefor

other pers:>n eoidd be found, on whom any res])on-

! sibilitv could be thrown in regard to the lost nuiles.

! .'Vnd after climbing bights to view the plains, and

I; riding from b;uid to band of Ills Darkness's quad-

jl rupeds for three hours in vain, we returned to our

camp sulljeientlj' vc.ted for all purposes of comfort.

Yet this was only the beginning of the niis-

forluncB of tliis day. During my absence, one

in the Forhf Mountains, the Oregon Territory, Sfc.

nt having been
ic tlcrtrHt horses
)psl mounted, wc
rproBfion of the
lie herd on the
lnsi;r|,t ofthcni,
iillop till withiM
for the iiiifibleHt
Hprcd. We all
r the horNi'B were

• rest were witli.
)istol» of their

vrll-liirdcd Ijody
ml did not drop ;
nor heart ; and

I iinwiiviy form
drippinc blood
loinn. He ran

eil him in that
mile of it, wlicn
allowing in hiH
ng at least 3000

• following man.
lis l)rifiket, Bplit
red it otF bh fur
l<l allow, we cut
ibs as far bank

II " the tleeee."
perpendicularly
ITS. and support
icn we laid our
mous side-ribs,
le tender-loiuH,
) mides to carry
piiching as fol-

the grain into
less, and spread
icd and smoked
( ngaged in this
ecof .Air. IJent's
y was that they

our neighbors,
' to our honora.

their lawful
ordered in the
them. It Was
no very favor,
the Caws, and
•h would be in

my influeneo
lers to raise the
, without refer.
: my horse, in
lis lodge. 'J'hn
rew old wome?i
diowingin dirt
Ives upim the

1 inquired for
■r thi'y them,
on this point,
hieh inquiries,
'ut no ehiefor
>m any respon-
the lost mules.
Ihe plains, and
rknesB's quad,
cturned to our
SCR of comfort.
: of the mis.

■ absence, one

of those potty bickerings, so conimf>n among men '
released from the restraints of society and law,
had arisen Iwtween two of the most (piarrelsome
of the company, terminating in the accidental
wounding of one of thcni. It occurred, as I
learned, in the following manner : A dispute
arose l)etw<!en the parties as to their relative moral
honesty in some matter, thing, or act in the past.
.\nd as this was a question of great [H'rple.xity in
their own minds, and doubt in those of others,
words rail high and abusive, till some of the men,
more regardful of their duty than these warriors,
Iwgaii preparations to strike the teut. The re.
doubtable cond>atant8 were within it ; and as the
cords were loosed, and its folds began to swing ,
U|)on tho i!entre pole, the younger of the braves,
niled with wrath at his oi)|H)uent, attempted to
show how t(^rriblc his ire would be, if once let
loose among his muscles. I'oi' t'lis pur|iose, it
would seem h« seized the muzzle of his lille with
every demonstration of might, power, &ie. and at.
tempted to drag it from among the baggigcr. The
hammer of the lock caught, and sent the i-ontonts
of thi^ barrel into his side. Every thing was done
for the wounded man that his condition required,
and our circuuistanees ])crmitted. Doctor Wal-
worth, of the Santa FiS caravan, then eight miles
in advance, returned, examined, and dressed the
woimd, and furnished a carriage ''ir the invalid.
During the afternoon the high rimf of the ("aws
also visited us ; and by introducing discolored wa-
tcr into the upper oritice, and watching its pro.
gress through, ascertained that the hall had not
entered the cavity. But notwithstanding thatt)ur
anxieties alxiut the life of Smith were much les.
sened by the assurances of Dr. Walworth, and our
friend the ('hief, yet we had others of no less ur.
gent nature, on which we were called to act. Wc
were on tho hunting.grouud of the Caws. They
were thieves; and after the Santa F<'' traders
should have left the neighborhood, they would,
without scruple, use their superior forci^ in ai)pro.
priating to themselves our animals, and other
means of continuing our jouruej'. The Pawnees,
too, were daily expected. The Cuuianehes were
l)rowling about the neighliorhood. To remain,
therefore, in our present eucaiiipuient, until Smith
could travel without pain and danger, was deemed
iertain death to all. To travel on in a manner as
comfortable to the invalid as our condition would
permit — painful to him and tedious to us though
it should Ih! — appeared, therefore, the only means
of safety to all, or any of us. W(! accordingly co-
vered the bottom of the carry.all with gra.ss ai.d
blanket-" laid Smith n|ion them, and with other
blank Iwlslered him in such manner that the
jolting of the carriage would not roll him. Other
arrangements necessary to raising camp being
made. I gave the company in charge of my lieu-
tenant : and ordering hin\ to lead on after mc as
fast as possible, took the reins of the carriage, and
drove slowly along the trail of the Santa F^'ans.
It was continually crossed by deep paths made
by the bufl'alo, as a thousand generations of
them had, in single file, followed their leaders from
(wint to (loint through the plains. These, and
other obstructions, jolted the carriage at every step,
and caused the wounded man to groan pitiably.
I drove on, till the stars indicated the hour of
midnight ; and had hoped by thii tim* to havs I

overtaken the traders, but was disappointed. In
vain I looked through the darkness for the white
einbanknjcnt of their wagons. The soil over which
they had passt'd was now so hard, that the man
in advance of the carriage could no longer find
the trail ; and another storm was crowding iti
ilark pall up the western sky. The thunder aroused
and enraged the bulfalo bulls. They pawed th«
earth and Iwllowcd, and gathered around the ear.
riage madly, as if they considered it a huge animal
of their own species, uttering thunder in defianco
of them. It became dangerous to move. It was
useless also ; for the darkness thickened so rapidly,
that we coidd not keeji the track. My men, too,
had not come i>|>— had doubtless lost the trail—
or, if not, migh* .ain me if I tarried there till tha
morning. I therefore halted in a deep ravine,
which would partially protect mc from the mad.
denarl buffalo and the storm, tied down my at '..
m;ds head to foot, and sought rest. Smith was in
gr»iat pain. His groans were sufficient to prevent
sleep. But had he been comfortable and silent,
the storm |K)ured such torrents of rain and hail,
with terrible wind and lightning, around us, tltat
life, instead of repose, became the object of our so.
licitudc. The horscmaii who had accompanied
mc, had s))read his blankets on the ground under
the cariiage, and, with his head upon his saddle,
attempted to disregard the tempest as an old-fash,
ioiied Stoic would the toothache. But it beat too
heavily for his philosophy. His Mackinaw blank,
ets and slouched hat, for a time protected his un-
gainly Imdy from the eft'ectsof the tumbhng flood.
But when the water began to stream through the
bottom of the carriage u|X)n liim, the ire of the
animal burst from his lank checks like the coming
of a rival tempest. IIu cursed his stars, and the
stars lichind the storm — his garters, and the gar.
ters of some female progenitor — consigned to pur.
gatory tho thunder, lightning, and rain, and wag.
on, alias poor Smith ; and gathering up the sham.
bling timbers of his mortal fraine, raised them bolt
u|)right in the storm, and thus- stood, quoted
•Shakspeare, and ground his teeth till daylight.

As soon as day dawned I found the trail again,
and at 7 o'clock overtook the Santa F<:diui. Hav.
ing changed .Smith's bedding, I drove on in the
somewhat beaten track that forty.odd wagona
made. Still every small jolt caused the unfortunate
man to scream with pain. The face of the coi'Ji-
try around Pawnee Fork was, when we saw it, a
l)icturc of t)cauty. The stream winds silently
among blulTs covered with woods, while from an
occasiond ravine!, long groves stretch out at ri.(ht
angles with itsmtiin course into ihe bosom of the
plains. The thousand hills that swelled on the
iiorizon, were covered with dark masses of bufTalo
|>eiccfully grazing, or quenching their thirst at
the sweet streams among them. But the scene
had now changed. No timber, no, not a shrub
was seen to-day. The soft rich soil had given
place to one of flint and st<nd, as hard as Mc-
.•Vdam's pavements — the green, tall prairic.grast,
to a dry, wiry species, two inches m hight. The
water, too — disgusting remembrance ! There was
none, save what we scoo|)cd from the puddles,
thick and yellow with burtido offal. We traveled
fifteen miles, and halted for the night. Smith was
extremely unwell. His wound was much inflam-
ed and painful. Dr. Walworth dr«a««d it, and «a.

Travels in the Great Western Prairies,

cmirugcd mo tn »u])poBc that no diingcrof life wuh '
to be npprrhi'ndcd. INIy coinpuny joinitl \\\v iit \'i
o'clock, on the 'i'iA, and wc fullowrd in the rear
of the cavalcndc. After mipiwr waH over, and
Smitli made eunifortable, I soiipht from houie of l
tlicm a relation of their forlunew <liirin(; the \)i\»\. \
night. It appeared that they had found tlie biiHa. ;
lo tmublenonui ax noon nn night eume on ; that
tljc bands of bulls not unfrrcpienlly advanced in
great numbers within a few feel uf them, pawing ,
and bellowing in the nioNt threatening manner;
that they also lost the trail after midnight, and
HpcBt the remainder of the night in tiring upon
the bulTalo, to keep them from nnniing over them.
Their situation was indeed dangerous in the ex-
treme. For when buffalo l)econie enrageil, or
frightened in any considerable nundnr, and com-
mence nmning, the whole herd Ktnrt simultane.
ously, and pursue nearly a right-linc courw, re.
gardJess of obetaclcs. So that, had tliey l)een
frightened by the Santa Kt^ans, or myself, or any I
other cause, in the direction of my companionH,
they must have trampled them to death. 'I'he
danger to b« apprehended from such an event was
rendered certain in the morning, when we ])er.
eeivcd that tlio whole circle of vision was one
black mass of these animals. What a sea of life
— of niuscuiur |iower — of animal api)etite — ofhes. '
tttol cnipyment! And if lushed to rage by some
iMjrvading cause, how fearfid the ebbing and flow-
ing of its mighty wrath ! {

On the 23d the buffalo were more numerous '.
than ever. They were arranged in long lines from j
Hie eastern to the western horizon. The bulls
were forty or fifty yards in advance of the bands
of oowB to which tliey severally intended to give
protection. And as the moving embankment of
wagons, led by the advance guard, and Hanked by ■
horsemen riding slowly from front to rear, and
guarded in the rear by my men, made its majestic
way ak>ng, these, fiery cavaliers would march each
to his own band of dames and misses, with an air
tliat seemed to say " we arc here ;" and then back
again to their lines, with great apparent satisfac-
tion, tJiat they were able to do battle for their sweet
ones and their native plains. We traveled fifteen
or sixteen miles. This is the lUstance usually made
in a day by the traders. Smith's wound was more
inflamed and |minful ; the wash and salve ol' the
Indtan chief, however, kept it soft, and prevented,
to a great extent, the natural iuflumniation of the
case.

llic faoc of the country was still an arid plain
— tlie water as on the t22d — fuel, dried bull' lo otl'al
— not a shrub of any kind in sight. .»nother
Btonn occurred to-night. lis movements wert! more
rapid than that of any preceding one which we had
experienced. In a few moments after it showed
ita dark outUnc above the earth, it rolled its pall
over tlie whole sky, as if to build a wall of wrath
between us and the increies of heaven. The flush
uf the lightning, as it bounded uiwn the firmament,
and mingled its thunder with the blast, that came
groaning down from the mountains ; the masses
of inky durknegs crowding in wild tumult along,
as if anxious to lead the leaping bolt upon us — the
wild world of buflulo, liellowmg and starting in
myriads, as the drajniry of this funeral scene of
nature, avast cavern of fire was lighted vp; the
rain roaring and foainiug like a cataract— 411 Uiis, i

a ri-eling world tottering under the great arm of ita
Maker, no eye could m c and lie unblenehed ; no
mind conceive, and ke<'p its clayey tcntmenl erect.
I drew the carryall in which .'>mitli and myself were
attempling to Nh'rp, eliiHc to the >^unta Fe wagons,
secured the curtains as firmly as I was able to do,
spread blankets over the top and 'iround the sides,
and laulie<l them firmly with rn|)«'S passing over,
under, and around the carriage in every direction ;
but to litlle use. The |H'netrating |M>wersof that
storm were not resisted by such means. Again
we were thoroughly <lrenehed. The men in the
tent fared still worse than ourselves. It was blown
down with the first blast; and the |KX)r fellows
were obliged to lie closely and hold on strongly to
prevent it and themselves from a flight less safe
than parachuting.

On the morning of the 21th, .Smith being given
in charge of mv excellent Iiieutenant, with the
assurance that I would join him at the " Cross-
ings," I left them with the traders, and started
with the remainder of my company for the Ar-
kansas.

TIk! buffalo, during the last three days, had
rovered the whole country so completely, that it
apjieared oftentimes extremely dangerous even for
the immeni)e cavalcade of the Santa Fe traders to
attempt to break its way through them. Wo
traveled at the rate of fifteen miles a day. The
length of sight on either side of the trail, 1.5 miles;
on Ixjth sides, 30 miles :— 15X 3=.|.5X 30=1,350
square miles of country so thickly covered with
these noble animals that when viewed from a
bight it scarcely afforded a sight of a sipiarc
league of its surface. What a quantity of food
for the sustenaiu^c of the Indian and the white
pilgrim of these plains I I It would have lu'cn
gratifying lo have wen the Iteam kick over the
immense frames of some of those bulls. IJut all
that any of us could do, was lo ' guess ' or ' reckon '
their weight, and contend al)out the indubitable
certainly of our several 8Up|)osilions. In these
disputes, two buteliiTs took the li.-ad ; and the
Hubstancc of their discussions that could interest
the reader is, •' that many of the large bulls would
weigh 3,(100 |Hiunds and upwards ; and that, as a
general rule, the buffalo were n'.ucli larger and
heavier, llian the donieslicated cattleof the .Stales."
We were in view of \\w Arkansas at 4 o'clock, I'.M .
The face of the earth was visible again ; for the buf-
I falo wen; now seen in small herds only, fording the
river, or feeding upon the bluffs. I*fear nightfall
\ \\v. killed a young bull, and went into camp for
the night.

On tlie25tli we moved slowly along up the bank
of the river. Having traveled ten miles, one of tlie
men slu)t an antelope, and we went into camp to
avoid, if possible, another storm that wus lower,
ing upon us from the North-West. Hut in spite
I of this precaution, we were again most uncom-
fortubly drenched.

! On the 2Gtli wc struck across a sonthem bend

in the river, und mude the Santa FC "Crossings"

at 4 o'clock, P. M., twenty-seventh, we lay at the

j " Crossings" waiting for the Santa Fcuns, and

: our wounded companion. ( )n this day a mutiny,

1 which had been riiK'iiing ever since Smith was

. woundiid, assumed a clear asjiect. It now ap.

peurcd that certain individuals of my company

i had dctcriiiiiicd to leave JriuiiUi to perisli in Uio

encn

Sll|l|>

endr

Sinl
dc<l ;

HHSIl

ordc

won

will

Ihr

iikIi

prcf

liltr
Mirrt
pniv
ion

llllr

in the RnrJcji Mountahm, the Orrcron Territnr;/, \i

• (f<''>t nrniof itH

imMniclu'dj no

f Inilmirit rrcct.

mid inymlf were

iiitii fV wugniiH,

w iiH iil)lc to do,

round Iho Hides,

Hs parwinir ovit,

rvtry direction ;

|iowrr« of Hint

iMi'anH. Again

'lie men in the

"■ It was l)lown

i<! |KK)r fellows

il on Btronfrly to

flight Iras sufo

itii being jjiven
■nant, with tlio
It the "("roBs-
r") nnd started
iiy for tile Ar.

irec ilnys, had
ipletely, that it
U'erouM even for
a Fe trufleni to
Il them. Wo
I a day. 'I"hc
trail, 1.5 miles;
LiX 30= 1,350
'covered witli
iewed from a
t of a S(|iiarn
lantitv of food
ind the whito
iild have Imth
kick over the
"ills. Hut all
«' or 'reckon'
'ic indiihiluhic
iHH. In ihe.««!
•ud; and tho
•■ould interest
te bulls would
aiHl that, as n.
;li larger and
of the .States."
o'clock, r.M,
II ; for the buf.
Iv, fording the
"oiir nightfall
iito camp lor

r up the bank
IcH, one of »(k!
into camp to
it was lower.
Hut in spite
Host uncom.

ulhcm J)end
" Crossings"
we lay at the

Fcans, and
ly a mutiny,

>Sniitli was
It now ap.
ly company
etiaU intlio

eneampminl wli'-re lir w im kIihI ; Iml I'liillnL' in
«u|i|)orterfi nl I'H li^irli.iriiiiH ;i pnipiiMtinii, lliry now
endciivorc'il Id iK'roinplisli llieir (ii'Mi^n liy less oli.
)ri;lionililp niiiiiK. 'I'liey f.iid il w.ih evi<l( nl if
Sinilli rriniiii''il in llie eonipaiiy, it mu»l he divi-
ded ; lor lliat llii'>,piin" en iImiih, could not lon'jer
nsHii('i:ili' with w> liii|iuri- a niiin. An<l lliiil, in
order to prcHiivi- llic iitiily of tin' ri>iii|Kiny, tliiy
would pmpiiHc IImI ariiin'.'ciiiriilH ^lJllMl(l lie ni:i(lc
willi llie S.Milii l'"iNinM tip t ilic liiiii iilfiii^ willi
llii'Mi. Ill llii" winli ;i nnijorily of llic i'om;i iliy,
indiii'eil liy ii laud ililo d<'sir(' lor peai'c, imil Ilie
preHervalioM of our Hiiiall force cnlire, in a c "iilry
tilled with IiiiIImii fill's, riMilily iiiiited. 1 w iR de-
sirtil to irijikr llir arr.iii|;iiM(til ; bill my ellbrtH
prnvi'il I'mitlr^H. (fi'iilli'iMi'ii |r;iilrrs wrri-of opin-
ion III II il would li" InzirdoiiH lor .Smilli, desli. *
lull' of the nil' iiiH of ^l|||l|lorl, lo IniMt himself
aiiionij il pi'iiple of wliosi' lainrii me lir was
i'^iioniiil, anil amoii:; wlioiii lie eniild riiiisri|i|i'iit-
ly ijrl no ( iii|iloymi'iit ; liirtlicr, lliat Smilh had a
ri^'hl lo e\|ii'rt prolrclion Iroiii his eomradi's;j
and lliey would nil, liy any act of theirs, vi lii've |
llii'iii from Ki) sarreil a duly. I riporled to iiiv ,
roiii|iiiiiy lliiH reply, and dwell at Icil'illl u;i<im the <
reiisous assii;Tied liy Ilie lr:iilirH. 'I'll" imiliiieers
were liij.'hlv dis|ili'asi'd Vi"illi llir' sironi.' r'oiiilrjima.
li'Hi ronlaiiii'il ill llii'iii, of llirir iiili'iilioii lo desert
liiiil ; and IkiIiIIv propoM'd lo leave ."^milli in llie
e irry.all, and m'Ti'IIv <li|>arl lor llie iiioiiiiI:umh.—
Hull we iloiie lliis iiiliiiiinii ai-l, I II ive no iloiilil
thill he would II ive lieeii treated witli t'i'eal hii. '
nianily iiiid Uiinliiess, lill he should have recovered
from his woiiiid. Ilul llie iiieaiiiuss of llie
proposition to leave asieli coinpinioiion llie hands
of llmse who liail shown us inilioiinili'il kiiidui'ss,
and in violalioii of III" solemn aifrceuieiil we Iriil
all I'lilered iiilo on llie rroiiliirof Missouri — "to
protect each olher lo Hie l!sl evireiiiilv" — was so
luanifi'sl, as lo cause < ', W'ooil, ,loiiriloii, ( )akly, .1.
^Vooll, ami llliir, lo la!<" <ipei) and slroii,f ground
ai;ainsl il. 'I'liev deelared tint "however nn.
worthy Smilh iiiio-ht he, we could iieilliei' leave
him lo liecaleii liy wolves, nor ii|hiu the merev of
slrainjers; .-ind that neillier sliould lie done while
Ihev had life lo prevent il."'

Ilaviiii; tliusaseerlaiiii".l that I could rely uiK.n
the co-operaliou of these men, Iwn of llie coiupi.
iiy made a liller, on which llic nnrorlunalc man
mi'iht lie liorne lielwccn two iimlcs. In llie af-
lerniKin of llie ;i"<lh, I went down lo the traders,
tivc miles below us, lo briivj him up lo iiueaiiip.
(Jenllemeii Irailcrs ifciieroiislv reriised lo receive
any lliin^r lor tlic usi- of llieir carria-^c, and fur.
uislied Smith, when he lell IIh'IU, with every lillle
comliirt in iheir power for his liilure use. It was
past suiiscl when we left their camp. Deep dark,
iicss s<M)n set ill, and wv lost oiir coiirsi' anion','
Ihc wiiidin;; liliill's. Hut as I hid rc.isfins to sup-
fiosc that my presence in Ihc camp llie ncxi luorii-
ing with i^milh wa.s necessary I'l his welfare, I
drove on till ^ o'clock in Ihc miirnin;^- It was of
no avail ; the darkness hid heaven and earlli from
view, \Vc thcrerorc hailed, lied ihc mules lo the
wheels of the Ciirriaj^e, and waited lor the si;rht of
morning. When it came, v.'c found that we had ',
traveled during the night al. one time up and at i
another lime down Ihc ;^lream, and were then ;
within a mile and a half of the traders' camp, < hi
rcachiiitj my cnuampmcnt, 1 I'oiuid every tliiiijj ,.

ready lor marching — fcnl hack the carryall to ils
owners, and alleinplcd lo swing Smilh in his lil-
ler for the march ; liiil lo our great disappoint*
niciil, il would iiol answer the purpose. Ilow it
was |iossible lo convey him, appeared an impiiry
of the most painful imporiaMcc, We dclilx-raled
long; but an impossihilily birred every ntleinpt
to remove ils dililcullies. We hud no carriage;
wc could not carry him upon our sliiiiildcrs ; it
seemctl impossible for him lo ride on hurHchaek ;
the mill iiieers were moimled; Ihc coiiipany was
ahaid lo slay lunger in Ihc vicinity of theCii-
maiii'he Indians, with so many animals to lenipt
lliem to take (iiir lives; the Santa Fii wagons
were uuiying over llie hills ten iiiilcM away on the
oilier side of the river; Iliad alijurcd Ihc com.
maud, and had no coulrol oyer the movements of
the company ; Mvo of the individuals who had de-
clared lor mer' v Inward Simlli had gone with Ihc
traders; then was but one course lilt— one eftbrt
llril could be ni'idc ; he must allcmpt lo ride tin
easy, gciillc mule. If thai failed, llmse who had
111 Irieiided him would not then liirsikc him, —
Alioiil II o"clock, Iherelbrc^ on Ihc ijlttli, Siiiilh
being carefully moiiiiled on a pai'iiig mule, oiir
faces were liirneil to lleiil's trading-post, llilt
miles up Ihc \rkaiisaN, ( liic of the principal mil.
liiieers, a hard. laced villain of no honest niemorv
iimong the the Iriders ii|ioii llie I'lalle, assumed
lo guide and cnmmand. His malice toward Smith
was oi llie liilli rest ell iracler, and he had an op.
portnnilv now of making il lell. With a grin
iipnii his lonir ,ind wilhcied physiiignoiny, that
sli iilov.a'd oiil the licndisli dilii^ht of a heart long
iiieap able of heller ell lol ions, he drove oft' at a rate
which none but a well man could have long en.
(hired, ll's innlivc for this was easily uiidcrst(Hid,
If we fell behind, he wiiulil gel rid of the wound,
ed man, wliose presence seemed lo he a living ev-
idence of his iiimdei'oiiK intenlioiis, thwarted and
eiisl back blistcriii'r upon his already sulliciently
fold cliariclcr. He would, also, if rid of those
persons who had dcvdled themsilycs to saving
him, be able to induce a large number of the re.
maindir ol the company to put themselves under
his especi il gil inli iiiship in llieir journey through
the moiiutains; and if we should be destroyed by
the ('umanche Indians thai were prowling around
our way, the blickuess of his heart might be hid.
den, awhile nl least, from Ihc world.

'I'hc nipid riding, .iiid Ihc exiremc warmth,
well. nigh proslraleil the rcniaiiiiiig slrcnglh of Ihc
invalid. He (liinled once, ami, had like to have
fdlcii headlong to the ground ; but all this was
dclighl to the sell'-constiliiled IcaiU'r ; and on he
drove, bclabnring his own horse unmercifully to
keep up the giiil ; and ipioliiig Richard's soliloipiy
with a salisfactinn and emphasis, that seemed lo
say "the winter '' of liin discontent had passed
away, as well as that of his ancient prototype in
villany,

'i'hc Uufl'alo wen^ seldom seen during the day :
the herds were heeoniing fewer and smaller, —
.Some of the men, when it was near night, gave
chase to a small hand near tlic tr.ack, and succeed,
ed ill killing a yoniig hull, \ line fresh steak,
and night's rest, cheered the invalid for the fa.
tigucs of a long ride the following dav. And a
long one it was. 'J'wenty-live miles iinilcr a burn-
ins ^ui) ^'^''('' "■ '''S'' '^'ver, and tluec broken ribti,

Travels in the llrcai Wcaleni Prairies,

requirprt the urrntput nttrnlion fwin hin fripniln,
unci thr cxirtioii nl' llir iitiiinHt rnniiiiiiii; nirrnirs
of ihr iitiliirliiniili' in.iii. H.iw tliMiii;li lie w.ih in
rvrry lliiiii; lli:il makcH ii ni.iii rslinmlilc iiiiil v;iln.
itblc lo liiiiiM U Mini iillicrn, Siiiilli WiiH rrallv an
nl)jr<M of |iity, niid llir mcwt ;ihHi<liu>iiH crirc. Ilif
roiirli wiiH K|irrii(l — liiH ni|i (if Wiilcr fii fli friiiii
the Hirriiiii, wiim iilwiiyK hy Iiim hIiIi' — iiinl IiIh fiKid
|irr|)iir('(l ill llic immt |iiil:it.'ililc niitiiiiir wliicli mir
rimiiiiiiliiiK'fN |iiriiilllr(l. Kvcry lliiiij; iiidicd
tilut li.n Irii'iidH (im, iml IiIh frlciidM, for lir wnn
liu'u|mcitiilrd li> iitt.icdi cillicr [\\r (rnod cir llir liiid
to liiH priHoii, bill lliKHC wild I'liiiiiiiiiaiTMli'd IiIn rill).
ilitii>n,) I'oiild (III, WUN d(iii(< tu iiiiiki' liiiii ((iiii.
fortiililc.

Ill (•(iiiMiTlion with this kiiidiirss lichlowcd
on Smith, bIiohIiI he ri|((;ilrd Ilic n;iiiii' nf Mliiir,
nil (lid iiK ch.iiiii' from MisHouri, who Joined
my comiiMiiy !il the ('ninsiinjM of tlii' ArUiiiiHiiH.
A mini of II kiiiilrr hiMrl iicvir cxiwlcil. h'roiii
the pliirr when' lir jiiincd im Id ( )|ci;oii Territory,
when invHclf or (illiers were worn with fiiliirne, or
(liseaBe, or Htarvalion, he \v:ik iiKviiyH ready lo ad-
liiiliiBler whatever relief waH in liin |Miwer. lint
towardit .'^mith in liiH lielpleHS eonditioii he wan
mprriallv ohlinihj;. lledrecHed liin wound daily.
Il(t nlepl near him at niL'lit, and rone lo Kiipply hit"
leant want. And in all the lryi,i|; (liHii'iillieN tlial
ocenrrrd iilon)/ onr perilous joiirncv. it was lii»
(rreatest d<lij;lll to ditrnso pe.iee, eoinforl, anil eon-
tcnliiirnt, to the exl('nt oflii« iiitlneiiee. I can
never for(;et the jjood old man. lie had heeii
elieated out of his properly hy a near relative, of
pretended piety ; iiiiil liad left Die ehoseii hi eiies of
liiH tnilH and hopes ill seareli of a nsidiiiee in llie
wilderiicFS heyoiid the iiiounlaiiis. For the purpose
■ 'I

yellinii ""' 'heir 'aire ; nnH tmmpinp, pnwinj;, full.
111(1 ll|ioll their knees, imd learinix llie earth with
llieir horns; lill, as if iinahle lo keep down Ihe
sil'ely. valve of iheir eoiira^o iiiiy loiiger, IliPy
would liimlile into the nlream, and Ihiiiider, nnd
wade, nnd swim, nnd whip the wall m wilh theii
tails, and Ihiis llirow olVa ipianlily of liraverv per-
frelly irresiHlilile. Iliil, like Ihe wralli and eoiirii(.'i
of eertain nieniln rs of Ihe hipeil race. Iliese niiiiii.
feKtatioiiM wern not hnllel-priMil ; for Ihe eraek ol a
rille, nnd Ihe niiiii; 111 ot a linllet alioni their rilis.
opiTiiled inslaiilaneonsly us an niuiilviie lo nil siieji
like iiervons exeilalioii. We pitehed (Hir lent ill
iiillhl near Ihe river, '('here was no limlier nnur.
Hill after n loiij; and ledioiis Hcareh we (rnllierpd
tire. wood enoiiL'h lo make onr eveniiiu lire.

The f.iHl ndiiiL'of the day had wearied ,'<inith
I'xeeeiliii'ily. An hour's rest in camp had resloreil
ed him, however, lo siieli an exieiil, thai onr aiix
ietv its lo his aliililv lo ride lo lieiil's was miieli
diiniliished. lie: iiolile mule proved too iiimhle inul
easy lo irralify Ihi inaliecof Ihe vairalsinil loader.
The ninhl liioiii.rlii lis its usual Irilmli — n slorm.
Il w.is as Hcvrri a'* any we had experieiieed. Il
We may dislinu'iiitli hdweeii the severilie* ol
these iiwl'iil timinlls of nature, Ihe tliiiiider was
heavier, deeper, more like the expirini; (jroaii of
the woild. '{'he wind also w.ih verv severe. Il
eanie in lonir iiiiHts, loaded wilh larjre dropii of
rain, that struck tliioiiirh the canvass of onr tent,
lis if il had heen cair/.e.

The liisl day <d' June L'ave lis a lovely morning.
The i^rass looked L'recn upon Ihe flinty plains. —
Nor dill the apparent fact that they were doomed
lollie eoiislaiil reeiirrenee of loni; draii(,'lilslakn
from lliein some of the inlerest that ijathrrH
around the hills and dales wilhi'i Ihe lines of the
.■^laUs. There is indeed a wide dilVerenee in the

ofjjelliiiS to the ()rei;on Territory, he had hired

hiniFelf ton i;entleiiiaii of Ihe traders" earavaii. v.illi

the inlentionof iioiii'j lo the eoimlry hy Ihe way of oulliiie of Ihe surf lee and the prodnetions of llies)!

New Mexico nnd Cililiirnia. .\ii lionesl m:in — an reirions. In Ihe plains there are none of Ihe pv.

honornlile man — a henevolenl, kind.sy nip ilhiziiiir
friend — Iip deserves well of those who may have the
good fortune lo heeonie actpiaiiited with his unpre.
tondinc worth.

Ontlie3iMli, Iwpniy.rivc miles up the river. —
This morniiiK the miscreant who acted as leader,
exchanged liorses that he niiifhl render it more dif.
ficiilt for Siiiitli lokeep in company. Diirinjr the
CI tire (lny"s inarch, Shakspeare was on the tapis.
I'oor old genllemairs dust and ashes 1 If lliere
be cars of him nhoiil Ihe ugly world, to hear his
imnii' bandied hy boobicH, and his immortal verse
mangled liy barbarians in civilized elolhing, those
oars Blood erect, and his dust crawled with iiidig.
nation, as lliis savacfc in nature and practice, dis.
charged from his polluted mouth the inspirations
of liis genius.

Tiie fact; of the country ^vns such as tliat found
ever since we struck llu^ river, l/mg sweeping
blufTs swelled away from Ihe water's edge into the
l)oimdless jdains. The soil was a composition of
Rand and clay and gravel. Tin; only vegelation —
the short furzy grass, several kinds of prickly pear,
a stinted growth of the sun flower, and a few de-
crcpid cotton-W(K)(l trees on the margin of the
Btrcnm. The south side of the river was blackened
by th(! noisy builido. And it was amusing when
our trail led us near the bank, to observe the rising ,
wrath of the bulls. They would walk with a state.

crgreeii ridges, the cold dear sprint"!, and snug
tlowerini vallies of .New. Kngland; none of the
pulse of busy men that beats from the .\llanlic
llirouirh Ihe uniat Ixidy of liiiman iiidiislry to tile
weslern border of Ihe repiililie ; none of the sweet
villages and homes of the old .Saxon race. Hut
there are Ihe vast sav.imiahs, resembling ni(dlen
seas of emerald sparkling with flowers, arrested,
while stormy, and heaving, and fixed in elr ma!
ri |Mise. Nor are there lowing herds there, and bl(?n.
ling flocks, that dipendeiKc on man has reiidorrd
subseryient lo his will, lint there arc tlieri^ thou-
sands of lleet and silent antelope, myriads of the
bellowing biilValo, the perpelnal patriinony patri-
mony of the wild, uncullivated red man. And
however other races may prefer Ihe haunts of
tlufir childhood, the well-fenced domniii and tho
stall-pampered beast — still, even they ennnot fail
lo perceive the same fitness of things in the beau-
tiful adaplalion of these eondilions of nature to
the wants and pleasures of her uncullivated lords.
We iiiadi^ ir> miles on the Ist of .Inly. The
blulVs along the river began to be striped with
strata of lime and Hand-stone. No trees that
could claim the denomiiuilioii of timber appeared
in sight. Willows of various kinas, a cotton-
wood tree at intervals of miles, wnc all. And
so utterly sterile was the whole country, that, us
night apiiroaclied, wo were obliged carefully to

of HlJ

eam||
ll<

ipi iril

CMIII|I

mlerJ
111111111
mi-oil
mcnj

IMf
llie
llieiiil
III III
servi

lot

b'.lil.l
saw
that 1
II ho
I'luiil
the
"h.
ibiiM
llie 1
of ol

ly trsad upon the verge of tho bank, ut timei ulmost |i learch along tho rivcr'i bendi for a plat of graii

in Ihe RocJei/ Mounluins, the Ortgon Terrilnrij, ffc.

IR. |mwrii!», full.
a flir riirlli wilh

> krrp (JDU'ti llir
l.V longer, tliry
I'l lliiilldrr, iinil
■il< m Willi ilicii
V "I'liniviTv |iir.

■ idl IIIKJ COIirilirc
"•'', llll'NC llllllll.

ir the inii'k <>l n
"li'iiil their liliH.
iilyiiPloiill Hiieli
in(l (iiir lent III
11" liiiilicr iiriir.
I'll "■!■ jrnllicret!
'imiU lire.

"ciirlril Smilli
np lind reHloreil
I, that our anx
Ill's \v:iH iniieli

too iiiinMi' mill
ij.''!!*'!!'! Iniidrr.
iliiilr— n Morin.
tprririiced. 1 1
(• pcvcrilin* oi
"• llniiider WiiK

lirill^r (rro.-lll ol
ly Kivcre. It
liirjr,. drops of
IBS of our lent,

>vcly ninniinjr.

liiity plains

' Were doomed
draiifihlstakn
lliat irathorH

I' lines of the

I'erence in thii
•lionnof thew!
of the rv-

iL'i, and Hniifr
none of the
the Atlantir,
idiistry to the
' of thcBweol
I raee. But
hlinjr molten
<T». arrewted,
1(1 in eleriKiI
■re, iind blca.
has rendered
' Iheit^ thou.

vriadH of thi!
imony i)atri.
man. And

ic liamitH of
lain and the,

>' cannot fail

I in the bean.
[if nature to
ivalcd lords.
•Inly. 'I'he
striped with

> trees that
tier ajipcared
s, II cotton,
•c all. And
fry, tlmt, us
carefully to
>lBt of grui

of miirinriit Ki/.e to feed our aniinnln. Our en.
•'ainpmeni was \'i iiiilrs above ('hotiaii's Nlulid.
Here wan rcpealecl, Icir the tweiilielli tune, llir
•pi irrel alHiiil llie relative moral nlentfi of the
company 'I'll is \\;\* always a i|iie«lion of deep
iliterepl uilli tlir imilmeerM ; and in inv were Ihe
aiiiUHiiiLr arirmiieiilsaildiiied and iimiHled upon as
ini'onli'Hlihle, Id prove llieniHelves (rriat men, purr
men, and salntii. Iliil as Ihrre was minli ilitlir-
em'e of opinion on maiiv |hiiiiIh inlrodiieeil into
■ he ilehale, the aiillior will not lie ev|>i'elei! lo re-
member all the iiii|i"rlanl lud^emcnls rendered
HI Hie prniiisi H. Il, linwever, my rreolleelioii
serves nie, i| was ad|iidire(l, on the aiilliorily of a
ipiol ilion from .""li lUspeaie, tli 'tour <lislin'_'iiished
leaiiri- was llir "Illy mall ninoii;; us that ever
saw the plains or moiinlaiiis — the only one of us
(hat iver dniM- an o\.vvai;"n up Hie I'latH — stole
a horse anil rille Iniiii his employirs — opeiud anil
plundered a " eai'lii'" of (;rH)dM — and r.in baek lo
the .States Willi well.foumleil preleusioiis to an
"honest eliar.ieter." Matters of this kind In^in^'
thus Halisrailijiily settled, we nave ourwlves lo
the musipiitiM s lor the nii;ht. 'I'hese eomp mioiis
of our Hliepmir hours were iiiiieh ultaehed to us —
an amiable ipnlily that " rims m the bhsxl ;" and
not unlike tlie liirtlirn;hl virtues of aonthiT rate
111 its elVecl upon our liappmeMK.

I I can srareely l)i' imparl lu;; information lo niv
leaili'is to say that We pasw'il .isleepliss nielli. Hiit
il is due 111 llie Lmards cMilside Hie Iciii. to remark,
that eaeh and every of them, maiiil'ested the must
priiiHiwoilhv viyilaiiee, watehliihii'ss, and iniliis.
try, dmiiii; the entire mi,dil. So kern a sense of
duty dill imiHipiil'i beaks impart.

'('be 111 At day we traveled I'J miles, and fell
ill with a liaiid of hiiU'do. 'I'liere lieinir a cpian-
lity of wood near at, hand wherewithal to (!iire
meat, wi' d(leriiiiii''il to dry, in this place, wh it
miifht be niediil, till wc should fall in with hutKi.
lo a^aiii biyniid Ihe liimtiii'i-ifidunds of the
Messrs. Iteiil'-.. ."^oiiie of the nii ii, lor this pur-
pose, filed oil' to the gaiiir, while the remainder
formed the eu • inipnieiil. Tile eliase was spirit-
ed and loii'f. They sin'ei edid. however, in hriu'.'-
iiii; down two noble bullocks ; and led their horwes
in, loaded with Hie ehoieest meat.

III prepnriii;^ and jerkin;; our meal, our man
of the slob 11 rifle here nhsmiied extraordinary
jsiwers in Ihe man i);enient of allairs. Like otli.
cr braves, arm in hand, he reeoiinled the exploits
of his past life, consislin;; of the i ntert limnenl
of HcrioilK iiilriiliiiiin lu b ive killed some of the
men that had left, h id they remained wiHi us ;
and, also, of /loic ilinifriron.s hix irnttit wiiild
linre hern in the settlements and el.sewnere. had
any indii;nily been otl'ercd to his honor able per-
son, or hispiantalion ; of which latter be held the
fee simple title of a "sipialler." On this point
" let any man, or (.iovernincnt even." said he.
" attempt to deprive nie of my inl)oni rii;lils, and
my rille shall be the jiidije lietwceii us." " (joy-
crnment and laws ! what arc tlicy but im]Wsition8
upon Ibo freeman." With this ebullition of wrath
ut the possibility that the institutions of society
inijrht demand of him a rillc. or the tiovernnicnt
a price of u portion of the public lands in his |)08.
session ' J appeared satisfied that be had convinced
us of bis moral acumen, and sat himself down,
with hii woU-fed (uiil corpulent coadjutor, to ilico

the iiirat lor drying'. U'liilc IIiiih enira'.;id, lin

ai;iiiii raisi'd the voier of wisdom. " 'I'hrse ile.

moeralie parlies lor Ihe pi unn 1 I wh it are they '

what IS eipialily any where ' A OiiIkc." " (Jno

iiMisI rule; tbn rest olsy, and no (,'rnmblini;, by

(i**I" The imitinecrH were vastly edilied by

these timely iiihtnietions ; and the man of part*

eeasini; 'o spciik, direeted his atleiitii i ; , iilyin({

the meat. Ili', however, whiii broke lorth a|r, in,

toiiiid laiilt Willi every arran<rement that had hi en

made — anil with his ow n mighty arm w roui;lit

Ihe chiuii,'es be desired, (iod, angels, and devils

wen- alternately invoked liir aid to keep his pa.

, tieiiie up 111 llie trials ol his "resjioiisible stalioii.''

j Me inwhile be was rousing' the lire, aire idy biirn-

I iiii; lierei ly, to more activity and still more, till

] the droppiiiir jrre.ise bl.ized, anil our seall'old of

I nieat w.is wrapped in llamcH. " 'I'ake that meat

ill'" roared the man of |Miwer. ,\o one obeyed,

mil His (ircatness slood still. " Take that meat

itV." he cried a;;ain. with the emphasis and mien

I of an Kmpcror ; not dei;;iiin;; liiniM If lo soil IiIm

j runs, by obeyiii!; bis iiw n comin and. No one

obeyiil. 'I'lii' meat liiirniil rapidly. His ire wa.vd

I'll hit;h ; bis ti elli iiromid U|hiii each other; yet,

I'stranu'c to record, no mortal was so niueli frijjli'.

' < lied as lo li> e<l his eomni.ind. .\t leii'.Mh bis

sublime l.irhc irancc h id an end. The (jicit man

seized the blazini; iiicil. in the spirit in which

.Napoleon S( i/.ed the liriil;;e of liOili, d.islii-d it up.

on Ihe ^I'liund. raisi-d Hie temperalure of his liir

: ners lo the blislerin;; point, and rested from his

labors.
I The moral sense is said lo have l)ern coeval
I and coextensive with the liumaii race. Indeed,
there are niaiiy facts to sii]i|Hirt this opiiiiou. Hut
I a doubt is Honietinies thrown over the exihlence
' of this siibslratiim of liiimaii ris|ionsibilil y. by the
pre|Hiniler.itin!j inlliienee of the baser passions
I over all the hallowed impulses of the social atl'ee.
lions, and the desire to be just. When the bandit
enters the eavc of the lonely forest, (llled wilh
the tiiiils of bis crimes, or the pirate treads the
I (.'oiy deck of his vessel far at sea, doi'S not the so.
; cial priiieiple. the senlimcnt of ri{;ht, of liumuni.
ty. wither, if it ever existed lliere, beliirc the oft.
eii-hi'ated fuinaciMif habiln d vice ' .Nor is thf
case chaii'^ed in the arid plains of the Wesl.-
I The mind that his trloated itself on dishones
j acts, has wrenched Iroiii the widow and orphan
the pill.mic of comlort that the L'raye has spared
'. tliem. has rioti'd ii])on the corpse of every virtue
thai adorns oin" nature, finds no allev'ation of its
■ liab fill propensities, when nothin^r but desolation
and the fearful artillery of the skies op|)OBe their
' manifestation. Hut still, when reason controls,
j who does not believe that in the coinimsitioii of
our mental lain;;, there is a sentiment of moral
titncss. .\nd, iiideid, in my little band there
were some in whose Ixisonis its saitred tires burned
britrhtly under the most liarrassinij ditliculties,
and 1 believe will continue to adorn their charac-
ters with its holy suhduiufj ligbt under the dark-
est sky that malevolence and misfortune will cvpr
cast over Hieii). Nor would I be understood to
confine iIuh tribute of my aft'ection and jrood will
to those that penetrated the mountains with me,
and endured hardshipB, hunger, and thirst with
nie, unioiii; its desolate vallies. There were oth-
en who left the company for the Platte, Santa Fi,

Travels in the Great Weslcrn Prairies,

ami tlic Sntrs, v.lin deserve the liiL'lusl pruise for
their grneroiiH sinlininita, ;iiid patient anil manly
endurance of tiillirinj;.

Three dayn nioie liiliuuin;; travel aloni; the
bank of the ArktinsiH 1 rnu.'hl ns to the tradin'j-
post of the !\Iei--srH. I!enls. It was about H o'clock
in tile afternoon of the ."jlh of Jnly. when we came
in tiiijbt of ilK noble hatllcnienls, and NirueU onr
e.iinivan into a lively pace down the swell of Ihi^
nei^diborinu plain. The stray nudes that we nad
in eliarfre lielonijin!; to the Ifi nts. sccntcci their
old (irazin'r ground, and irallopped cliecrfMlly on.
ward. And onr hearts, relieved from the anxie-
ties that liad nia<lc onr camp, for weeks ])ast. a
travclin'x babel, l<'a)ied for joy as the i;ates of the
fort were thrown ~pen ; aiiil " welcome to Tort
William" — the hearty wi'leonie of fellow-eoim-
tryinrn in the wild wilderness — greeted ns. I'eaee
again — roofs atjain — safely again from the winged
ari-ows of the savage — relief again from the de-
pravi'd suggestions of iiihninanily — bread, ah I
bread again — and a prospeei of a delighlfnl tramp
over the snowv highls between me and ( Iregon.
with a few men of trne anil generoii;- s|iuits, were
home of the many sources of pleasure that slrng-
jfled with my shiridwrs on the first niirhl's tarry
among the hospitalities of '• Fort William.''

i\Iy coiii|)any was to disband hen — the proper,
lylield in common to be divided-.aiid I'a.h individ.
nal to be left to his own resources. .\nd while
these and other things are being done, the read( r
will allow nie to inlrodiice him to the (ireat I'rai.
rie '.Vilderiiess. and the In'ings and millers I here-
in contained.

CIlAi'TKU HI.

Thk Great Prairif Wililerm'ss— iis Kivers anfl Soil— iu
Peoplp and Iheir Terriittrics— Clinc.iaw.'*— (;hirka.'>aws—
Ch»'nikf*c«— (Jreeks — SJcaccis anti Mia-.vnees— Seiiilrn!es
— P'ttlawoniiiies— Wra>4 — [*i'>rtkn>ha.s — Peniias ami Kas-
ka»kia<< — t>Ilowas — Sliawnefsor.*^h^wannis — Delavvairs —
KHosan^— Km kapoos— Sauks and l'\ixr.',— I(>w;i*— Otoes —
Onit^has— Pntk;alis— Pawners, rfnii ant.- — Cariiiikanag —
tnnianche, rrniriains— Kriittinaux— .Naudow is-efl or Hioux
— *:hipp^way<, and llinir tradiliuie..

'I'liK tract of eoiinlrv to which I have thought
il titling to apply l!ie name of the " (Ircal I'laiiie
Wilderness," embraces the terrilory lying bidwccn
the . "States of Iioiiisiana, .Arkansas, and Missouri,
and the I'pper Mississippi on the east, and the
lllack Hills, and the e.i-itern ranire ol' the Rocky
and the Cordilleras moimlaiiis on the west. < lie
thousand miles of loiiLriliide, and two llions iiid
miles of latitude, •J.OIill, 111)11 sipiare miles, cipial to
1 ,:2'<(l,ll(ll),lll»l) acres of an almost mibroken jilaini I
The sublime Prairie Wilderness ! I

The |H)rtion of Ibis vast region UDII miles in
wiilth, along the coast of Te.\as and the frontier of
the States of liouisianii, .\rkansas, and Missonri.
and that lying within the same disiaine of the l']).
per .Alississiiipi in the Iowa Terrilory, |Kissess a
rich, deep, allnvial soil, capable of prodiic-iii'_r ilie
most abundant crops of the grains, vegelablis iVe.
thai grow in such latitudes.

Another [Kirtion lying west of the irregular
wesleni line; of that just descrilxil, "illO miles in
width, extending from the month of SI. Peters
Hivcr to the Kio Del Xorto, is an idmosi nnbro.
ken plain, dcstiliiti! of trees, save here and Ihere
one scattered at inlcrvals for many miles along
the banks of tlu^ sIreamK. The soil, except the
intcrvaUul' iiontu of llic Kiverri, is coinjioscd of

coarse sand and clay so thin .and liaril that it is
diHiciilt for lrav( lers to ])enelrati- it with the
stakes Ibey carry with them wherewithal to fas.
ten their animals or spread their tents. Never.
Ilieli ss il is covered thickly with an extremely
; nutritious grass peiniliar lo this region of country,
the blades of which arc wiry 'ind almiit '2 inches
I in bight.

( The remair.dcr of this (Ireat Wilderi'.ss lyiiif;

I three lie.ndred miles in width along the Kastern

! Radices of the Itlack Hills and that part of the

Rocky mountains between the I'lalleand the Ar.

kansas, and the Cordilleras range east of the Rio

Del \orle, is the arid waste iisiiallv called the

, ' (Ireat American Deser'.' Its soil is composed

of dark gravel ini.ved with the sand. .Some small

: |K)rlions of it, on the banks of the slreimis, are

covered with tall Prairie and bunch grass ; others,

with w Id wormwood ; but even these kinds of

vi-geta.ion decrease and finally disappear as you

apjmii'ch Ihe mountains. A scene of desolation

scarce y cipialed on Ihe eonliiient is this, when

; viewed in the dearth of mid-summer from the

I bases < f the Mills. .Miove you rise in snbliinc

' confusion, mass upon mass, of shattered clills

; through which are sirugirling the dark foilage of

,| stinted shrub-cedars ; while below yon spreads

! far and wide the liMrul and arid desert, whose >-o\.

'I emn silence is seldom broken by Ihe tread of any

' other animal than the wolf or Ihe starved and

■ thirsly horse that hears the traveller across its
.: wastes.

'I"be principal streams that inlersect the (Jreat
, Prairie wilderness are the Colorado, the Urasos,
i Trinity, Red, .Arkansas, (Jreat Platte and the
l' Missonri. The latter is in many respects a no.
ble slream. Not so miicb so indeed for the in.
tcnvairse it opens between the Stales and tla^
plains, as the the; 're of iigricullure and the
: other [)nrsults of a densely populated and distant
' inli'riiir ; for these ]ilains are loo barren lor gener.
al I'ullivalion. liiil as a ehaniH I for the trans,
portation of heavy arlilliTy, inllilary ;-tori's, troops,
iVc, lo posts that miisl ullini.ately bi' established
along onr northern frontier, it will be of the high-
est n.se. In the months t)f April, M^iv, .md .lime
il is navigable for sti .in. boats to the (ileal Kails;
but the scarcity of Water during the remainder
of the year, as well as the searei'y of wood and
coal alonu: its banks, its steailily r.ipid enrreni, its
tortnons course, its falling banks, timber imbed-
lied in till' mud of its eliani:el, and ils constantly
shifting sand bars, will ever prevent Its waters
from being exienslvely naviealed. how gieat so-
' ever may may be the d'lnaud for it. In that
p.irt of il which lies above the mouth of the l,il.
lie Missouri and the trilinlaries tlowiini into it on
either side, are said to be many eb.irmipg and
productive vallies. separated from each other by
secondary rocky ridges sptirsely eoyered with cv.
ergreen trees; and high over all, far in the .South
Wist, Wist, and North West, tower into view,
the ridges of the Rocky Moimlaiiis, whose iiicx-
' lianslihie magazines of ico and snow have from
' age to age supplied these valleys with refri'shing

■ springs — and the Missonri — liie (ireat Platte —
,: the Colnmbia — and Western Colorado rivers with

their tribute to the Seas.
j Lewis and Clark, on tlieir way to Oregon in
I 1SU5, iiwdo the Portu;;e at the iireut l'"«lls, Id

iu the Rochj Mountains, the Oregon Territory, Sft

linnl tliat it ig
Ir- it with tlin
'U-illial to las.
tents. Never-
an exlrrniely
ion of conntry,
[ilKiut i2 ineliea

ilderiN'SS Iviitjj
\<X tlu' Kasteni
at part of the
le and tlie Ar-
ast of the Uio
illy railed llie
il is eoniposed
il. Some small
e streams, are
grass ; others,
these kindii of
<a|)pear as you
' of desolation

is this, when
mer from the
si> in suhlime
ihattererl elills
'ark I'dilaije of

yon spreads
ert, whose sol-
e fead of any
e starved and
Her aeroas its

seet the fireat

0, the rinisos,
altc and the
respeets a no.
ed for the in-
tales and tla^
lure and the
d and dislant
■ren for gener-
I'or the trans.

:-fores, troops,
he eslahlished
!• of the high,
lav, .mil ,hme
■('Jreat Falls;
tiii^ remaimh'r
of \\ ood and
lid enrreni, its
liinher Nuhed.
its eonslantly
nt its waters
low pi cat so-
r it. In that
Ih of the l,i|.
•iii!r into it on
•harniiii'j and
eaeh other hy
ered with ev.
• in tlie ."^outli
er into view,

1, whose iiiex-
)W have from
illi refreshing
Ireat IMalte—
do rivers with

to Oregon in
cut iulLs, la

miles. In this distance, the water deseends 3fi3 '!
feet. The lirst great pite.li is 1)8 feet, the second
1!), the tliird \^, the fourth 26. Smaller rapids
make up the remaininder of the descent, .\lter
passin<j over the I'ortagc with their lioats and
baggage, tlicy again entrusted themselves to
tlic turbulent stream — entered the chasms of the
Kocky mountaina 71 miles alwve the upper rapids i
of the Falls, penetrated them 180 miles, with the
mere force of their oars, against the enrreut, to '
(tallatiii, Madison ami JetVerson's Forks — and
ill tlie same manner ascended .lefTerson's IJivor i
248 miles to the e.xtreine liead of navigation, ma. ;
king from Oie inouth of the Missouri whence they '■
started HUDli miles ; — 429 of which lay among
tlie suhlime crags and clifls of the Mountains.

The (>reut Platte has a course hy its Northern i
Fork of about ITiOO miles ; — and by its i^onthem
Fork somewhat more than that distance ; from
its entrance into the .Missouri to th(^ junction of
these Forks aliout 40(1 miles. The North Fork
rises in Wind River Mountain — north of the
(ireat Pass through liOng's rang<' of the Kock^'
Mountains, in Latitude 42° North. The South
Fork riwB 100 miles We.it of .lames Peak and
within 1.5 miles of the jioiiit where the .Vrkansiis
escapes from the chasms of the Mountains, in
liatitude ,39° North. This river is not navigable
for Btcamlioats at any season of the year. In the
spring floods, tlie Battaux of the .American Fur
traders descend it from the T'orls on its Forks. —
But even this is so liazardous that they are begin- '
ning to prefer taking down their furs in wag</ns
hy way of the Konsas Riverto Westporl, Missouri,
thence by steam-lioat to St. Louis- During the '
summer and autumn months its waters arc tfio
shallow to noatai:anoe. In the winter it is hound
in ice. Useless as it for purposes of navigaation,
it is destined to be of grc;>t valuft in another rc-
sjieet.

The overland iravel from the .Sfate.-i to Oregon
and ("alifoniia will find its great highway along
its b.anks. l*o that in years to come when
the Federal Governmen' shall taki' possession of
its Territory Wvst of the Mountains, the hanks
of this stream will he studded with fortified posts
for the protection of countless caravans of.Vmer-
icaii citizens emigrating thitlier to establish their
alKide ; or of those that are willing to endure or
destroy tlic jictty tyranny of theCalifornian tiov-
ernmeiit, for a residene(^ in that most beautiful,
(iroductive country. ICven now loaded wagon?
can pass without serious interruption from the
mouth of the Platte to navigable waters on the
Columbia River in Oregon, and the Bay of , Sim
Francisco, in Calilbrnia. .And as it may interest
my readers to peruse a description of these routes
given mi' hy difTerent individuals who had often
traveled them, I will insert it. " Land on the
north side of the mouth of the Platte ; follow up
that stream to the Forks, 400 miles ; in this dis-
tance only one stream where a raft will he needed,
and that near the Missouri ; all the rest fordible.
At the Forks, take the north side of the North
one ; 14 days travel to the tlie Black Hills; thence
leaving the river's hank, strike oft' in a North
West dircelion to the ywcet-water branch, at " In-
de;,eiidctice Rock," (a large rock in the plain on
whicli tlie old trajipers many years ago carved the
word " Indepcndciico" uiitl tlioirowu namciii oval

in form ;) follow up the Sweetwater ,3 days ; cross
it and go to its head; eight or ten day's travel
Ibis ; then cross over westward to the head waters
of a small creek nmning Southwardly into the
Platte, thence westward to Big .Sandy creek 2
days, (this creek is a la;ge sliaam coming from
Wind river Moimtiiins mi the North ;) thence 1
da_v to Little Sandy ireek — thence westward over
'1 or 4 creeks to (ireen River, {\\•\^ ii name
.^heetsUadee,) strike it at the niouliirif Horse
creek — follow it down .3 days to I'ilot Bute;
theiice strike westward one day to Hams Fork
of lireen River — 2 davs up Hams Fork — thenco
West one day to iMiiddy Branch of Orcat Bear
River — down it one day to (Jriat Bear River —
down this 4 days to Soda Springs; turn (o the
right up a v.illey a quarter of a mile helow the
Soda .Springs ; follow it uj> in a North West di-
rection 2 days to its head ; there take the left hand
vallev leading over the dividing ridge ; 1 day over
to the waters of Snake River at I'ort Hall ; thence,
down snake River 20 days to the junction of the
Lewis and Clark River.s — or 20 days travel west-
wardly by the .Mary's River — llii nee through a
natunil and easy jiassage in the California .Moun-
tains to the navigable waters of the San .loiquiii
— a iiohle stream emptving into the Bav of San
Francisco." Tlie Platte therefore when consider-
ed in relation to our iiitercomsc with the habita-
ble eoiintrion on the Western Ocean assmnes an
imeipialed imporlancc among Ilii! streams of the
(Jreat Prairie Wilderness 1 But for it, it would
be ini)iossihle for man or beast to travel those arid
jilains, destitute alike, of wood, water and grass,
save what of each is found along its course. Up-
on the head watel. of its North Fork too is the
omIv way or opening in the Rocky ^lounlains at
all praciicable for a c, rriage road throngli Ijieiii.
That traversed by Lew !;• and v 'lark is covered
with ])erpetual snow ; that near tlu delMiuchurc of
(he .Smith liirk of the river is over liigd, and near.
ly impassable precipices ; tliat traveled hy myself
farther south, is, and ever will be impassable for
wheel carriages, lint thi' (ireat (Jap, nearly on
a right line lirtwciu (he mouth of Alissoiiri and
I'ort Hall on Clark's River— the )inin( where the
trails to California and Oregon diverge — seems
designed hv nature as the great gateway between
the nations on (lie Atlantic and Pai'ific seas.

The Reil River has a course of about l.,VMI
miles. 1 1 derives its name from a rediiisli color
of its water, proilueed hy a rich red earth or marl
in its banks, far up in the Prairie Wilderness. So
ahimdantly is this mingled with its waters during
the spr'.ig I'reshets. that as the tloods retire they
leave upon ilie lands they have overfiowed a de-
posit of half an inch in thieklies.'.. Three hundred
miles from its mouth eommence.-- what is called
" The Raft," a covering lormed by drift-wood,
which coneials the whole river lor an extent of
ahoul 40 miles. .\ml so dee|>ly is (his immense
bridge covered with the stdimcnl of (he stream,
(bat all kinds of vegetable eominon in its neigh-
Iniriiood, even trees of a considerable size, aro
growing iipoB i(. The annual iiiundationN arc
said to he cutting a new channel near the bills.
Stcambxits ascend the river to the Rait, and might
go fidv leagues above, if thai ohstruction witc re-
moved Above this latter point the river is said
to be cl)lburral^Bcd by many ruiiidB, i>ituUowH, fullMt

Travels in the Great Western Prairies,

iind saiidburH. Indord, for 70(1 inilcR its broad bed
is rrprcacntcd to bo iui rxtonsivc and |M'rfpct Knnd
bar ; or rallicr a wrics of sand bars ; anionsj wliich
during Ibo suniinrr nionlhs, the water stands in
jionds. As you approach tbi" nioiinlaiiiK, however,
it boconics contrurtrd within narrow hinits over
a gravelly bottom, and a swift, clear, and abund.
ant stream. The waters of the Kid |{iver are so
bnekisb when low, as to be unfit for common use. I

The Trinity River, the Firazos, and Ibc Rio
Colorado, liavc each a course of alniul IliDII miles,
risini; in the plains and mountains on the North
and Northwest side of Texas, and runninj^ South
Southeast into the (Juif of Mexico.

The Rio Hravo del Norte boimds the Circat
Prairie WiUlcrness on the South and South-west.
It is lt),")l) miles loni;. The extent of its uavifta.
tion is bltlo known. Lieutenant I'ike remarks in
regard to it, that "for the extent of four or live
liundrcd miles before vou arrive near tli<' moun-
tuins, the bed of the river is extensive and a per.
feet Band l)ar, which at a certain season is dry, at
least the waters stand in pomis, not ittbrding suf.
lieieut to jiroeure a runnini; cou^.c. NV'lien yon
come nearer the mountains, you tind the river
contracted, a gravelly IkjIIoui and a deep naviga-
ble stream. From these circuinstaiK'cs it is evi-
dent tiiat the sandy soil imbiliis all the waters
wliieh the sources pro'tict I'roni the mounttiins, and
rcnderr the river in diy seasons /r.v,s' imriirnlilf tirr
hnitilnd mill's, than 'JUO from ils source." Per.
haps wc should undeisland the lienUinnt to mean
that .')()<) • iles of sand bar and li'W milcss innne-
diately 1- ,w its source being taki ii from its whole
course, tne reiiiaindir, !l.)0 miles, wonld be the
leu'ithof its navigable waters.

The Arkansas, ul'ti-r ihc Alissoun, is the most
considerable river of the "ouutry under considera-
tion. It takes ils rise in that e!'"<ler of secondary
iiiounlains which lie at the caste! bascof the .\ii.
ahuac Kidge. iu latilude II'- iS'orlh — SO or 1)0 miles
North-west of .lames Peak. It runs .about 'JilO
miles — first iu a southerly and tleii in a south-
easterly dircclion among tlnse mountain ; at one
time along the most eh irmiiig valleys and at an-i 1 uded to prove that their proximity to the whitcH

condition, manners and customs, &c. I will give
a brief account. And it would wcni natural lo
commence with those tribes which reside in what
is called " The Ii.dian Territory ;" a tract of coun-
try lK>unded south by the Red River, cist by the
States of Arkans,iB and Missouri — on the north-
cast and north by the Missouri and Punch Rivers,
and west by the western limit of habitable country
on this side of the Rocky .Mountains. This the
National Govenunent has purchased of the indi.
gcnons tribes at specific prices ; and under treaty
stipulations lo pay them certain annuities in cash,
and certain others in facilities for lea"niug the use-
ful arts, and for acquiring that knowledge of all
kinds of truth which will, as is supposed, in the
end excite the wants — create the industry — and
confer njion thciii the happiness of the civilized
state.

These benevolent intentions of Government,
however, have a still wider reach. .Soon aiter tlia
lOnglish |Hjwer had been extinguished here, the cu.
lightened men who had raised over its ruins the
temples of equal justice, began to make etrorts to
restore to the Indians within the colonies the few
remaining rights that Uritish injustice had left
within their power to return; and so to exchange
property with llicin, as to secure to the several
.•States the right of sovereignty within their several

' limits, and to the Indians, the fnuctionsofa sovc.

I reign [lower, restricted in this, that the tribes shovdd

I not sell their lands to other person or liody cor|X)r.

; ate, or civil authority, beside the (iovcrmnent of
the (Jnited .States; and in some other reRl>eclsre.
stricted, SI) as to pres<'r\-e peace among the tribes,
prevent tyranny, and lead them to the greatest
iiappiness they arc capable of enjoying.

And various iiiid nimieroiis were the etlbrts
in ide to raise and ainelioralc their condition in
iheir old haunts within the precincts of the .States.
IJut a total or partial ftiilure followed them all. In
a lew eases, indeed, thi'rc seemed a certain pros-
pect of final success, if the authorities of the States
in which Ihey resided had permitted them to re-

1 iM nil wlicr" they were. Rut as all experience

other through 1 be most awful ebasms— till it nish-
<'S from theiji with a foainiug curri'Ul in l.ililude
39'^ .North. Kroiu the pl.ice of ils delioiichure toils
(iitr.anee into llie Mississippi is a dislauee oi'lilSl
miles; its total length 'IW.i miles. .Miout TiO
miles below, a tribiilary of this sireaiii. (-alleil the
(irand Saline, a series of sand-bars comiuenee aii<l
run down the river several bimdred luiles. Among
them, during the dry season, Ihe water slaiidsiii
isolated ]hjo1s, with no apparent current. Hut such

induced among them more vice than virtue; and
as the (Jeiieral GoverumenI, before any attempts
had !>■ en niidc lo elevate them, had become obli-
gated lo remove them from many of the Slates in
111 which they resided, both the welfare of the In.
diaiis, and the dulv of the (Jovcrnmcnt, urged
I heir colonization in a portion of the western do.
main, where, freeil Ironi all iinestions of confiictinff
sovereignties, and under the protection of the
I'liion, and Iheir own municipal regulations, they

is thi' (|n iiilily of water sent down fioiu llie moun- '' iiiighl find a refuge from those intlueiices whicli
tains by this noble stream in the lime o! Ihe an-' llircatened the annihilation of their race.

nual frchhcls, that there is siillieient deplli even
upon these bars, to lloat large and heavy boats ;

The " Indian Territory " lias been selected for
this purpose. And assuri'dly if an iuexhauslible
and having once passed these obstructions, they '[ soil, producing all tlii^ necessaries of life in greater
eim be taken up to llie plac-e where the river es- ,j abundance, and with a third less labor than they
capes from Ihe crags of the mountains. IJoals in. j are prod iced in the .\tlantic Slates, with excellent
tended lo ascend the river, should start from tliei! water, fi legrovesoftimlicrgrowiug by the streams,
mouth alKiut the \s\ of i''cbru iry. The .Vrkansasj rocky d.fls rising at convenient distunces for use
will hp iwl'ul in conveying munitions of war lol among the deep alluvial plains, luines of iron and

our southern frontier. In the dry season, flie wa-
ters of this river are strongly iinpregn.ited with
salt and nitre.

There arc alwml Kt,"),000 Indians inhabiting the
Groat Pn ui9 WddnrncH, of whoaa .locial nnd civil

had ore and coal, lakes and springs and streams of
salt water, and innumerable quantities of butTalo
ranging throngh their lands, arc sullieient iiidicu.
tiona that this country is a suitable dwelling-place
for a raccof nicit which is pauiiiK from tliu iavag*

in the Rucky Mountains, the Oregon Territory, S^v.

tc. I will (jive
ni niitiiral to
rrsirio in uluit
tract of coun.
cr, cist by the
"'1 lliR north,
'iinrh Rivers,
itahlp nountry
«• 'I'his the
I of tlie ineli.
'indiT treaty
iilicH in cisli,
iiiiiarlhciiHo.
"lediro of all
x"*'''!, in thn
idustry — and
the civilized

Government,
>ooii niit-r tho
hfre, the en-
its ruins the
ike efForta to
"lies the few
IPC had left
to exchunffe
tlie several
their He veral
nsof a 80VC.
tribes should
Mdy (^orjjor-
'eninient of
respects re.
■r the tribes,
the greatest

i the ellbrls
condition in
" the States,
leuiall. In
'rtaiu proH-
)f the States
heiM to re.
e.«|ierii>nec
) the nhitcM
.'irtue; and
>y attempts
econie ubli.
le Slates in
of the In.
eut, urged
vcHtcra do.
eon(lictin}r
ion of the-
tions, they
lees which

elected for
xhauHlible
ill greater
than they
excellent
e streams,
J"* for use
' iron and
itrea?ns of
of I'litlalo
lit iiidicu.
iiiff-placo
11) lavage

'o the civilized condition, tho Indian Territory has
l)eirn well eliosen as the home of tlies<^ uiilorlunite
people. 'I'liither the (Government, for the last thirty
years, has been eudeavorins; to iii(bic<' tho.se within
the jurisdiction of tho Slates to emiirrate.

'i'he (Joveniment punOiast^ the land wliieli the
emifrratinjj tribes leave — ),'iviu(j I hem others within
the Territory ; transport them to their new alnxie;
erect a ixirtioii of their dwelling's ; ploim^li and
fence a portion of their fiebls; Cuniisli them teach-
ers of aifriculture, and implemints of husbaiuhy,
horses, ealtb <.Vc. ; erect school houses, and sup.
port te^ichers m thein the y'""' ioiin<l; mihe pro-
vision for the siibsistcnci' ol' Iho.se who, by reiison
of their recent emiffratiou, are unable to subsist
theuiselvis ; and do every other act of bcnevoli 'ice
ncei'ssary to put within their ability to enjoy,
not only all the jihvsieal comforts that they left
iKliind them, but also every reipiisiti; facility and
eneourafjeinent to become a r<'asf)nini;, cullivatcil,
and happy (leople.

Nor does thissjiirit of libeialitv stop here. The
great doctrine that (lovernmenl is formed to coll-
ier U])Oii its subjects a greater (legrce ol' happiness
than they could <iijoy in the natural stale, Ins sug-
gested that the system of hereditary chicftaneics,
and its depeiidaut evils among the tribes, should
yield, as circumstance s may permit, to the ordina-
tion of nature, the Huiiremacy of intcllert aiul vir-'
tiic. Accordingly it is contemplated to ns<' tlii' '
most ctficient means to abolish them — making the
rulcrsclectivc-establishiiiga form of government in
each tribe, siinilar in department and diitiis to our
State tiovcrnmcnts, and uniting the tribes under a :
(Jencral (iovcniment, like in jjowers and functions
to that at VVashington. j

And it is encouraging to know that some of the i
tribes have adopted this system; and that the Go. ■
vcrnmeni of the Union has been so far encouraged
to hope for its ailoptioii by all those in the Indian I
Territory, that in 1H.17 orders were i.ssued from
the Department of Indian atJairs, to the .Superin-
tendent of Sur\'cys, toseU'ct ami rejiort a suitabi'
place for the Ceulral (iovcmmenl. A selection
was accordingly made of a charming and valua-
ble tract of land cm the (Isage river, abfuit 7 miles
squ.irc ; Mhich, on account of its cfpial distance
from the northern and southern line of the Territorv,
and the beauty and excellence of the surrounding
country, appears in every waj' adapted to its con-
templated use. It is a little ovir Hi miles from the
western line of Missouri. Any member of those
tribes lliat come into the confederation, may own
property in the district, and no other.

The indigenous, or native tribes of the Indian
Territory, ari'^the Osages, alKiul .'i,.">lll; the
Kanzaus or Caws, 1,7'20; the Omilias, 1,11)11;
theOtoeanil Missouri, I, tiOO ; the Pawnee, 10,111111;
Pimcaii, 800; tjiiapaw, OOO— making •JI,C-liO.—
The tribes that hive emigrated tliitln r from the
States, an'— the Choctaw, l.'i.tiOO. Thisestimite
includes 900 while men, married to Choctaw wo-
men, and GOO negro slaves. The Chickasaws,
r>,:)00 ; the Cherokccs, 29,000. This estimate in-
cludes 1 ,'900 negro slaves, owned by them. 'Phe
Cherokecfl (including !hlO slaves) ' 99,000; the
Creeks (including 303 n.-gro slaves) 99,r)00 ; the
Scnecas aiidShawnces.Kil ; (he .'Vminoirs, l,riO0;
the Potlawatamies, 1,(!,">0; the VVeas, 'JOi; ; Ih"
PiankashuB, 157; tiic Pwrias uiid Ivusk;\skius'

M2; thcOltowaH, 2(n; the Sh.awnceK, S33 ; tho

Delawa.es, 091 ; the Kiekajioos, 100; the Sanks,
(100; the lowas, 1,000. It is to be nn<lerst(H)d
that (he numbers assiirned to the emigrant trilie-s
represent only Iho.'.e portions of tluiii that lia-.e
actually rinioved to the Territory. Large num.
hers of .several tribes arc still within the liordersof
the .Slates. It appears from the alKjve tabb s, then,
tint 79,')00 have li:n! lands assiguid them ; and,
abating the relalls ■ ert'cets of births and deaths
among lliiin in increa^ang or diminishing their
numbers, are a<'tuilly residing in the Territory. —
'i'liese, adiliil to '91,1101)01 the indigenous .-ibes,
amniint to 1) l,SI)l) imdir the fostering cire of the
Ki'dcral (loveninieiit, in a fertile and delightful
country, (iOI) miles in lenglli frnm north to south,
and east iud west I'roni the froiilicrof the Uepub.
lie to i..e deserts of the moun'.aiiis.

'i'lie Choctaw country lies in the exiren.e Houth
of the 'I'errilory. Its boundaries are: on the
south, the Red Kivcr, which separates it from the
Kepnblic of 'I'exas ; on the west, by that line run.
ning from the Red River to the Arkansas River,
whii'b separates the Indian American Territory
from that of .Mixio; on the north, by the Ar.
kaiisas and the Canailian Rivers ; and on the
east, by the Slate of .\rkansas. 'I'his tract is ca-
pable of prodiK'ing the most abundant crops of
the small grains, Indian corn, flax, he;iip, tobacco,
cotton, &e. The western portion of it is poorly
supplied with timber ; but all the distance from
the -Arkans'is frontier westward, '900 miles, and
extending UiO miles from its northern to its south-
ern boundary, the country is cap.iblc of sup|xirt-
ing a jiopniatioii as deusi; as that of England. —
19,900,000 acres of soil suitable for immediate
settlement, and a third as much more to the west,
ward tl at \i'oiild produce the black locust in ten
years after planting, of siiHicient size for fencing
the very eonsidei.dile part of it which iu rich
enough for agricullural purposct will, dimbtlcsf,
sustain any inercasid population oi this tribe that
can reasonably be looked for during the next .500
years.

Tiiey have sullercd much from sickness inci.
dent to settlers in a new country. But there
appear to bi' no nit oral causes existing, which,
in the known order ol things, will renrler their
location perm inenllv uiihi'althy. On the other
bald, since they have become somewhat imirej
to IIk- change of eliiu;ile, they are ipiile as healthy
as the whiles near thiiii ; and arc improving in
civilization and coinlort ; have many large f.\rins ;
much live stock, such as hfirses, mules, cattle,
sheep, and swine ; three flouring. mills, two cot-
ton-gins, eii^bty-cight looms, and two hundred
and twiiitv spinning-wheels ; carls, wagons, and
other farmiu!; utensils. Three or four thousand
Choelaws have not yet settled on the lands as.
signed to them. A jiart of these are in Texas,
between the rivers IJrazo.s and Trinit)', 300 in
number, who located tliemsolv-;s there in tho
time of the general emigration ; and others in
divers places in Texas, who emigrated thither at
various times, twenty, thirty, and forty years
ago. Still another band continues to reside east
of the Misissippi.

The Choctaw \ation, as the tribe denominates
itself, has adopted a written constitution of Gov-
ernment, similar to the Constitution of the Uai-

Travels in the Great Western Prairies,

ted States. Their Deelarution (if Ri-rlils hc jurcs j] tlie Pri'siilent of the Unitod Slates, for the term of
to all ranks and wrts eijiiul ri;;lils, liluTly of 1: "JD years. Also, (ho sum of )j!:i,,")00 is to lie i\|i.

conscience, and triai hy jury, ite. It may be
altered or amended by the National Council.
They have divided their country into four judi-
cial districts. Three of them annually elect nine,
and the otlier tliirteen, members of the National
Assembly. They nie(!t on Ihc first Monday in
October annually ; or(rani7.i' by the election of a
S|)eaker, the necessary clerks, a li(jlit-liorseman,
(stTjjeant-at.arms,) and do<ir.keeper ; adopt by-
laws, or rules for their governance, wliile in ses-
sion ; and make other reifulations requisite for
the systematic transaction of business. The jour,
nals are kv'pt in tli<^ Enirlish langua};e ; but in
the proifress of business are read otV in Choc,
taw. 'I'he iii'climinary of a law is, " He it en-
acted by the General Council of the Choctaw
Nation."

By the Constitution, the Government is com-
posed of four (le|iartments, viz : Iiejrislative, E.\.
eeutive, J\idicial, and Military. 'I'hree judges \\
ore elected hi each district by jxipular vote, who [
hold inferior and sujierinr courts within their res- i!
pcctive districts. 'J'en liffbt-borsc men in each ■
district perform tlie duties of shiritls. .\n act has ■•
been passed for the orpfauization of the militia, i
Within each judicial district an otticer is elected
denominate i a chief, who holds bis ollice for the
term of four years. These cbiefs have honorary 1
seats in the National Council. Their sijjniit'ires |
are necessary to the passage of a law. If lliey '
veto an act, it may become a law by the concur-
rence of two-thirds of the Council. Thus have
the influences of our iiislitulions began to tame
and change the savages of the western wilder-
ness.

At tlie time when the lights of religion and sci.
cncu had scarcely begun to dawn u|Hm them — ,
when tliev had scarcely discoviTcd llie clouds of!
ignorance that had walled (very avenue to ration-
al life — even while the diisl ot ;iiiti(iuuted liarbar-
ism was still banging uikiii tlui}' giinjients — and
the niglil of ages of slotli and sin hi Id thein in its
cold embraces — the fires on the towers of this
great temple of eivil freedom arrested their slum-
liering faculties — mid they read on all the holy ;
baltliinenls, written with beams ol living light,
" All men are, and of right ought to be, free and '
equal." This teaching leads tliem. It was a i
pillar of fire moving over the sili nt grave of the |
past — <'iilightening the vista of coming years —
and, by its winning brightness, inviting them to
rear in the (Jreal-I'rairii' wilderness, a saiicluaiy '
of republican lilierly — oleipial laws— in which to
de|K)site the ark of their own future well being.

The (,'hiekasaws have become -iierged in the
Choctaws. ^VIlen they sold to the Governmenl
their lands cast of the .Vlississippi, tliey agreed to
furnish themselves with a hoini'. This they have
done in the wcslem part ol the Choctaw country,
for the sum of fr)3(),()00. It is called the Chick-
asaw district ; and constitutes an integral part of
the Choctaw body iwlitic in every respect, e.\cept
that the Cliickasaws, like the Choctaws, receive
and invest for their own sole use, the annuities
and other moneys ])rocee(lirig from the sale of
their lands east of tlii^ Misjissippi,

The treaty of 1831) provides for keeping 40
Choctaw youths aX school, under the direction of

plied to the sup|K)rt of three teachers of schools
among them for the same length of time. There
is, also, an ime.xpci ded ' ■•.lance of former annui-
ties, amounting to aUmt )<j!25,IM)0, which is to be
applied to tlu! sup|iort of schools, at twelve difl'er.
cut )ilaces. Sclifsjl-houses have bei'll erected for
this purjxise, and iiaid for, out of this fund. Also,
by the treaty of 1825, they are entitled to an an-
imity of ,$(i,(l(ll), for the sujijiort of schools within
the Choctaw District.

The treaty of the 'Jlth of May, 1834, provides
that !»!3,l)()l( annually, for fifteen yeara, shall be
applied, under the <lirection of the Secretary of
i \Var, to the education of the Cliickasaws. These
i pco]ile have become very wealthy, by the cession
' of their lands east of the Mississippi ii, the I'nited
I States. They htive a large fund applicable to va-
il rions objects of civilization ; .*(l(l,llll()of whii'h is,
i for the presi'iil, applied to puqiosesof education.
j The country assigned to the Cherokces is
n boundeil as HilJows : beginning on the north bank
[! of -Arkansas Uiver, where tlii^ Western line, of
• the State of Arkansas crosses the Uiver : thence
' North 7^ 3,-,' West, along the line of the State of
, Arkansas, 77 ,|,il,.s to the South West comer of
the State ol Miss<iuri ; llienee North along the
line of Alissonri, eight miles to Seiu'ca River ;
1 thence ^"esl along the Southern boundary of the
1 Senecas to Neosho Uiver; thence up said River
' to the ()s;ige I, mils ; thence West with the South
boundiiryoT the Osage lands, ■Jpf J miles; thence
South to the Crick lands, and East along the
North line ol the Creeks, to a point about 1.1
miles West of the State ol Arkansas, ani' iJ
niilcs North of -Vrkans.is Uiver; tlieiii'e Soiilli
, tci Venlii;ris River, tlienee down Verdigris to Ar-
kimsus Uiver ; llience down Arkansas River tn
! the miiiilb of Neoslio Uiver; tlienee South .'13^
1 Wet one mile; tin nee South In^ 19' Wot 33
miles ; theiiee South 1 miles, to the junction of
the North Eork and Canadian Rivers; thence
down the bitter to the Arkansas ; and thence
down the Aik.-insas, to the place of bei;iiming.

They also ou 11 a tract, described, by beginning
at the Soiilh K:ist corner of the Osage lands, and
rimiiing iN'orlh with the Osage line, ;'>l)m'"s;
thence Ivisl L'.'i miles to the West line of .Missiiu.
ri ; ihenee West '2'> miles, to the place of begin-
ning.

They own ninnerous Salt Springs, three ol
which are worked by Cherokces. The amount of
Salt in. inr.lai lured is pmbably alKiut 1110 bushels
pir (lay. They also own two Lead .Muies, —
Their Salt Works and Lead .Mines are in the
Eastern portion of their country. All the set-
tleinents yet formed are there also. It embra-
ces about 2,.'iO(l,()IIU acres. Tlicy own about
ai),OIIII head of cattle, 3,11(1(1 hors<s, ir),f|()() hogs,
G(l(l shirep, 110 wagons, often several ploughs to
one farm, several himdrcd spinning wheels, and
i 100 looms. Their lielils are enclosed with rail
fences. They have erected for theinsi Ives good
I log dwellin'is, with stone chimneys and plank
, lloors. Their houses are furnished with plain ta.
hies, chairs, and licdstcads, and with table and
kitchen furniture, nearly or quite equal to the
dwellings of white people in new countries. —
They have aeven native merchants, and one rcgu-

in the Rochj Mountains, the- Oregon Territory, Sfc.

l"nP till' t.riil <,f
00 JH to lif n|<.
ITN of Kcliools

time. 'I'),,.,-,,
rornicr aiiniii.
"•hicli JH to !)('

twelve (lirtiT.
<ii ereeled li.r
s fund. Also,
led to an an-
icIiooIn williiii

^'•''■1, l)rovideM
•( aix, shall l)o

Seeretary of
isaws. 'J'licRe
>y tlie r( ssion
1'' llie I'liited
ilioal)le to va-
Oof which is,
r eduialion.
'hcrokeiH is
e north hank
'Stem lini; of
iver : Ihenee

the State of
I'st comer of

ll alollir Ih,;

ncca IJiver ;
ndary ol the
|i said l{iver
111 the South
iles ; Iheiioe
St alonjr ilip
It ahout 1.1
sas, nnii i^
euee South
ili^rris to Ar.
las Uivir to

South Ti.T^
)■ \Ve>t :).•)

junction ol
ers ; thence
and thtnec
'uinninir.
y hefjiiininif
■ l.mds, and
, .")() iii''s;
of .Miswiu-
e of bc-riu-

s, three of
amount of
0(1 luLshels

.Mines —
are in the
II the Hit.
It cnihra.
mil ahout
i/lOO ho^rs,
ploughs to
heels, and

with rail
Ives (rood
nd plank
1 plain ta.
table and
liil to the
iintrips. —
one regu-

lar physician, beside R'veral " (piueks." Houses
of entertaiunieiil, with neat and coniforlalile ac-
copuiiiodutions, an> I'ouud anion:; llieni.

'J'lieir wtllenienls are divideil into lour districts ;
eaeli of which elects lor th(^ term of two years,
two menihers of the Nalioiial Couucil — thi^ title
of which is, " The (iencral ('oiiiicil of the Cher-
okee Nation." liy law, il meets ainiually on the
lirst .Monday in ( Jclolxr. They have llirei' chiefs,
which till lately, have he< n chosen liy llie (ieiKTal
t'ouncil. Ilcrcarier, Iheyare to be eledi'd by the
pco|ile. The upprov.il oi IlieChiels is necessary
to the |)ass,i^:e ol a l.iw ; hut an act ujiou which

tlicy have li.xcd their veto, may hcco a

law by a vote of two thirds of the Council. —
TIk' Council eoiisisls of two hiaiicla'S. The
'ower, is deiioininalcd the ('iniiiiiillvr, and the
iipjicr, the ('i)iiiiri!. The ccjiieurrence of lH)th
is necessary to tin' ) :issaj;e ol a law. 'I'lie Cliiels
iiiav call a Counc'i at pleasure. In this, and in
several other r. .-.pects, they retain in some dcjirec
the aulliorily coniinon to hercditarv Chiefs. 'I'wo
.lud^fes heloii:; to each dislrici, who hold courts
when tie<'essary. 'I'wo ollicers, dcuomiii ited
l/i!;lit-liorscrncu, ill each district pcrlorui the du-
ties of .Sheritl's. A company of sl.v orscven l.i^jhl.
h'.rseinen, the leader of whom is styled Captain,
constitute a Nalional Corps of He^rnlatois, to pre-
vent inlraetions ol the l.iw, and to brin;jr oll'cnders
to jiisliee.

it is stipulated in (lie Irealy ol the (ith ol' Alav,
ly-iH, that Ihc 1 nilcd Stales" wil pay .>ii-J,li:iil ail-
nil, illy to the Cherokees for 1(1 years, lo be expend-
ed under the direction of tia.' I'lesidcnl of the
United Slates, in the eilucatiou ol their eliildrcn,
ill l/ieir iiir/i roiiiilri/. ill lellcrsaiul mechanic arts.
-\l3o 3l,0i)!l toward the purchase of a priutiii!;-
press and tyjics. JJy the Irealy of Deecinher :J1),
Ib3,'), the sum of .•Sil.'tO,(l:)t( is proviileil for the
support of enmnion schools, and such a literary
institution of a hi;rher order as may be established
in the Indian country. The aUive sum is to be
added to an education luud of .'i>(.')(l,()OII that pre-
viously existed, makinif the sum of .'ij|-JlMI,(M)(),
wliich is to remain a perniauent school lund,onlv
the interest of which is to be consumed. Tin'
application of this money is to he directed by the
CMierokec Nation under the supervision of the
Tresideiit of the I'nited St itcs. The interest ol
it will be Hullicienl constantly to keep in a Ixiard-
innr si^hool two hundred children ; or ci(;lit liiui-
drcd, if b(jarded by their parenls.

The country of the ( 'reeks joins C.Tjiadian Riv-
er and the lands of the Choctaws on liie South,
and the Cherokei- lands i>ii the l-iasl and North.
Their Kastern limit is about (ii miles from North
to South. Their Western limit the Mexican
boundary.

Their country is fertile, and e.xiiiliils a healthy
ap|K'arance; but of tlu' latter Creek Kmiifiaiits
wlio reached .Arkansas in the Winter and .Sprini;
of 18,'t7, alKiut :il)l) died on the ro.id ; and before
tlic tirsl of October succeidiieT the arrival, about
3,r)UI) more fell victims lo bilious fev(^rs. In the
B;iinc year, 3,)0 of the earlier emigrants died. —
Tliey own Sail Spriiiirs, cultivate com, vegetables.
&.C., spin, weave and sew, and follow other pur-
Huits of eivili/.ed people. .Many of them h ivc
iarfre sb)cka of cattle, llefore the crops of lc>37
hud l)ccii gatliured, tlioy hud Bold cum to the

amount of upwards of .3311, (1(10 ; and vast quaii
iticssliU remained unsold. Even the l'hui;;rantH
who arrived in their eounlry duruii; the w'iuter
and s|)riii;^, jircviou.s to the croppin;; season of
l^-'tT, broke the turf, bnced their fields, raised
their crops for the first time on the soil, and sold
their sm|ilus of corn for §1(1,(100. 'I'liey have
two native m'^rchints.

The civil nfiverumcnt ol this tribe 's less per-
fect than that ol the Chciokccs. There are two
bands; the one nn.Ier .Mi'lnlcr.h, theotb-r under
I. idle IJoclor. Tliat leil by ihe former, brought
willi them lioni llieir old home wrillen laws which
Ihiy I iilbrcc- as the laws ol llieir band. Tlial
uiidir till.' filler made writlen laws alter their ar
rival. Each parly holds a (oncr.il Conncil. The
memliers of each are berchtary chiels, and a
class of men called < 'ouiieilo.s. Ivicli of tlieuc
jjrcat b.inds are divided iiilo lesser ones ; which
severally may hold courts, try civil and criniinal
causes, sentence, and execute, iVc. Laws, how-
ever, are made by the (oiicr.il Councils only. —
and il is beconiin:r eustom.uy to entertain trials
oi eases beli)re these hollies, and to detail soiiieol
their niembeis lor executioners. The I.e;i;islalive,
Judicial, and K.xecutive departineiits of their
(iovernniclil are thus liecnmin;; .ilranjfcly umtid
in one.

The treaty of the (itli .March, IS!)'], stiimlates
that :iii .•innuily of .'«!3,0'l!l shall be expended by
ihe I'liited J^lates, under the direction of the
I'rcsidi III, lor the term of twenty yeais, in the
iducaliou of their children. Another .'ji 1,000 by
the treaty ol the 1 Ith ol February, i^33, is to
be annually expended dnriii;.; the pleasure ol' Con-
irress, li)r the same object, under the direction of
the I'residcnt.

Ill location and irovernniciil, the .Seininolcs are
incr'^ed in tlie Creeks, in the sprin;r of 183li,
aUjut 100 of them emi;rratcil from the I'lasI, and
settled on Ihe North lork of Canadian Kiver. In
October, 1^37, they were reduced by sickness
nearly one. hall. Uuriii^r these awful times of
mort.ihly aiiionir them, some of the de.id were
de|)osited ill the hollows of the slaiidin:; and fallen
trees, and others, lor want of these, were placed in
a temporary eiic|r)snrc of iMj.irds, on the ojien plains,
(inns and other articles of property were often
buried with Ihe ile.id, accordui;; to ancient cus-
tom. .And so fircal is said (o have luvii the ter-
ror of the time, th ll, h iviu^r abandoned them-
selves awhile lo their wjdiii;;s around the burial
places of their friends, lliey tied to the Western
deserts, I ill the |>cstileiicc subsided. Oi the lJ,(W3
emiirralils who li.id reached llieir new homes prior
to Octolier lo3',', not nioie thin 1,(100 remained
alive.

The Senecas consist of tliree bands, to wil:
Senecas -111), Senecas and .'■^liawaiioes i!l 1, .Mu-
li.iwks 50 ; in all Kil. 'i'lic finds ol tiie Senecas
proper adjoin those of i he Cherokees on the South,
ami, abultiiij^ on the .Missouri iKirder, the distance
of 13 miles, extend Norlii to Neosho Kivcr. The
lands of the mixed baud of .Senecas and Sliawa-
iioes, e.xlend .North between the .State of .Missouri
ar.l Nroslio Uiver, so far as to in hide G0,000
acres.

These people, also, are in some me.isure civil-
ized. .'\lo.st of them sjie.dt Ihiirlish. They have
tields enclosed with rail fences, ami raise com and

Teari'h in the Great Wcsit m Prdirie.i,

vcffctahlis siifTicinit fcirtlu'ii' own use. 'I'lii'v own I
about 800 horses, l-JllO rnlllc, 13 vnkc of'oxcn,
iJOO liogs, C> Wiii£oMs, iind liT ploiiijlis — cKvoll in
lic:it, hewed loaf o;i!iins erected liy llieniselves, .■iiid
furnislird with hcdsleiids, ehiilrs, t;dp|es, \e., of
their own inuMnrieliire ; and own inw urist nnil
B.'iw-nnll, ere<'ted id the ex|)ens(' cjI' the I'niti d
Slates. ^

'I'lie eonidry of Ihi' Osifres hen Xorth (d' tlie
Western [Hirtion oftlie ( 'herokee l:in<l-;, eolninene-
iii^ 'J.'i nnles West o|' the St de ol' Missonri, nod
thence, in a wiilth ol ."lO rndisi vtends westward :is
lar as the country '•■>» hi' iidialiteil. In 1S|7,
they nnmhered lO.'illO. W'ari willi the Siouv,
ami other I'ausis, have Irl't only r>,r)00. Alionl hall'
the tribe riside on the cistern portion of their
lands ; the residue in the ( 'herokee eoimlry, in two
villaires r)n Verdii;ris iJiver.

This tribe? Ii is made scarcely any iiii|)roveinent.
Their lields are siiiall and h idiv t'enced. Their
hillH arc constructed ol |i(des inserted in llic L'roiiml,
bent toijethcr at the top, and coverid with bark,
mats, iVc, and some of them with biilliilo and
ilk skins. The tire is placed in the ceiiire, ami
the smoke escapes throiinb an a|>ertme at tlie top.
These huts are liiiilt in villajfcs, ami crowded to.
(Tcther without oriler or arrauuement, and destitute
nl' liiruitiire ol' any kind, evcept a plairorm raised
about two I'eet upon stakes set in the ijrouml.
This e.xtemis aUm^r the side ol' till' but, and may
serve lor a scat, a table, or a Itcdstcad. The j
leirjjiu'^s, and moccasins lor the feet, are si'ldom
worn, except in cold weather, or when they are
travelinir in the (;rass. TIksc, with a leinporary
(Tarmcnl rastened alioiil the loins, and exicndini;
downward, and a bnH'ilo robe or blanket thrown
loosely around them, constitiile the sole waril-
robe of the males anil married females. The un-
in;\rricd females wi'ar also a strip of pkiiii cloth
fiilbt or nine inches wide, which they throw over
(mc sboidder, draw it over the breasts, and fasten
under the op]Kisite arm.

The Osaire, were, when the whites first knew
tlicm, brave, warlike, and in the Indian sense of
the term, in ufllucnt circumstances. They wi-re
the hardiest and fiercest enemies of the terrible
•Sionx. Hut their independent spirit is jrone;
and they have dcjrencrated into the miserable
rondition of insolent, starving thieves. The
(iovcrnnicnl has been, ami is makiii'i the most
treneroils ertiirts to elevate them. The treaty of
\H2'> provides, "that the President of the I'nited!
States shall employ such iicrsons loaid the Osaijes
in their ajrricultural pursuits, as to him may seem i
expedient." I'ndcr this stipulation, !ij!l,'JOO an- :
niiallv have been expended, lor the last fifteen
years. This Ixinnlvof the (iovernmeni, however,
has not been of any permanent benefit to the
tribe. The same treaty of IS-J."), leipiired lifty-
lour sections of land to be laid idV and solrl under ',
the direction <d' the l'rcsi<lcnl of the United
States, ami the proceeds to be applied to the edii- ;
cation of Osajre children. Karly in tln' year
1838, Government made an arranttement by ;
whicll they were to he paid .$".? per acre, for the
whole tract of fifly-linir sections, .'( ti.StiO acres. ■
This eouunulaliou has secured to the Osajre ^
trib*', the sum of ljjiti!t,li!!l for oducation ; a princely
fund for S.rilO individuals. Govtrninent hcred.
jtary chivft«incicB.J

The band of t^uapaws, was orijrlnallv con-
nected with the OsiircR. Their lands lie inmic-
diately north of the Senecas and Shawaiioes, and
extend north between the State of INlissouri on
the east, and .N'cosho IJivcr on the west, so far as
to include ill),l)tll) acres. Their country is south-
east of, and near to the I'oiinlrv of the Osaj^es.
Their habits are somewhat more improved, and
their cireumstancis more comlortahle, than those
of the List iiiiU'd trihi'. Tbev subsist bv industry
at home, cnllivate lields enclosed with rail tences,
and about three. toiirtlis ol them hive erected lor
llieniselves small lo^r dwelbnirs with chinmevs.
I 'nfortiin itely liir the l^uipaws, Ihcv settled on
the lands of the Senecas and Shawaiioes, Irom
wliicli tbev must soon riaiiove to their own. .\
small hand of llicin, I'orly or llftv in nmiiher, have
settled in Texas ; and about thirty others live
amon^' the ( 'boclaws.

The I'ottawalaniies. in cmiifriiliinj to the West,
have imfortmiatelv be^'ii divideil into two liaiids.
One tlioiisanil or litteeii lumdreil have located
themselves on the ■Northeast side ol the Missouri
Uiver, villi miles fioiii the comitr\ d.siirnated by
(lovermnent as their permanent nsidence. Ne.
LOitiatioiis have been had to ell'eet their removal
to their own lauds, hut wiibout success. AlHiiit
tilteen himdied olbeis have sillied near the .Saiiks,
on the Mississippi, and manilest a desire to re-
main there. 'I'be eomilry desiv.nated tor them
lii's on the sources of the ()sa;;e and Neosho riv-
ers. It commences sixteen miles and lour chains
West of the State of Missouri — and in a width
of twenty-tour miles extiinls West two hundred
miles. Ity the treaty of \!^'X), they arc allowed
the sum of ,'jliTO,tltlO for purposes of <'ducalion
and the encourairemeut of the useful arts. Also
hv the same treaty, is secured to them the sum of
.■iji I, 'ill, 01)11, to be 'applied to tli(^ erci'tion of mills,
farm-houses, Indian houses, and blacksmiths'
shops ; to the pnrcba.se of a;rriciiltural implements,
and live stock, and for the support of physicians,
millers, farmers, and blaeksinillis, which the Pre-
sident of the rnilcd Stales shall think proper to
ap|K)int to their service.

The Weas and Piankasli-.is arc bands of Miamis.
Their country lies north of the Pottawatamies, ad-
joins the State of Missouri on the east, the Shawa-
iioes on the north, and the Peorias and Kaskaskias
on the West — lti(),OIIO acres. These peo|ile own a
li'W cattle and swine. .Miout one-lialf of their
dwelliiiirs are conslriK^ted of loirs ; the remainder
of bark, in the old native style. Their fields arc
enclosed with rails; and they cultivate corn and
veiret allies suHicieiit for a comfortable subsistence.
The Piankasha band is less improved than the
Weas. The former liiive a field of about ')0 acres,
made by the (ioverment. The latter have made
their own improvements.

The Peorias and Kaskaskias arc also bands of
the Miamis. 'I'licir land lies imiuediately west of
the Weas; adjoins the Shawaiioes on the north,
and the Ottowas on the west. They own (Itl.OOO
acres. They are iinprovini;, live in loir-bouses,
have small fields (renerally enclosed with rail-
f<!nc,es, and own consider ibli: uuiiibcrs ol cattle
and Bwine.

The hinds of the dttowas lie immediately west
of the Peorias and Kaskaskias, and south of the
tshawaiwe*. The tiiut band of emigrants received

3f.l
inl

hal

in
lb I
sc'l
off

(-'■'
111'

npl
di;

in the liock}! Mountains, the Oref^on Territory, ffV..

liirilllllly con.

"ids lie iiDiiif-
liaw.iiiDcs, ;ifi(l
f AliHsoiiri on
"■I'st, so far tiH
iMtry is Koiilli-
r (Ik' OwiircH.
•'ii|'i""Vr(l, and
'li'. tliun tliosc
'' l>y inilnslry
III l':iii I'rnrcs,
1 11 iiiil liir

nil •■liiiinii'vs.

ii'.v Hiltlcd on

nv.iriiic's, Ironi
ii' own. A
iiiiiiilii T, liavi"

V olliiT.H live

to llic West,
I'l •"■o l)iin(lH.
Iiavi- lo(M|,.(l
I III' MiHwmri

l;sisfii:iicd l)v
i'lrni'c. i\,'..

flirir ivinoval
■'s«. .Alwiiit
ii'lli<'S:iuks,

ilKMO lo IC-

''■'I for tlicni
N<ok|io liv-
I liiiir rhiiins
ill 11 width
Iwo liiindi'cil
uir uliowrd
111 riluciilion
' 11 lis. .'VIbo
I till' Sinn (i(
i"ii of mills,
liliicksniillis'
iiiiplrincnlK,
I'liVsioimiH,
ii'li lilt.' Vrv.
ik (iropcr lo

!"(' Miann'H.
itiiinicM, iid-
llii'Sliawa.
KaskiiskiuH
'o|)li' own 11
ilr of tlirir

iciuaindcr
" tiild.s ari'
«' I'orn and
iilisiKtcnor.

Iji.in the
t CM iirrrs,
avc niadi!

liandH of
ly svvHt of
111' norlli,
1-11 itIi.OOO
nr-lion»cs,
villi rail,
of cattle

tely wpst
li of the

recuvtsd

3fi,n00 acroB, and one which arrived snliscfiurntl- ,
■lO.OnO aorre, adjoininR the first. Thry all live in
(Tood lop.cabin.'i, Invn ficldH onrlnscd with mil-
fcnrrs, raise a conifortablr supply of rorn and
(Tirdi'ti vri;rtal)lrs, ari' lu'iiinninil lo raiw whral,
liiiv"' horses, catllc and swine, a small jfrist-niill
ill operalion, and many olliei convenii'iiees of life
Ih il iiidieale an i'lereasiii'^ desire anion;; llieiii lo
s<ek from Ihe soil, rather than llie chase, the means
of life. Alioiil r.,OI)ll Oltowas, residing; in Mielii-
fran, are s<miii to he removed lo their hrethien in
th'' 'I'errilory. 'I'lie eoiiiilry of IlieOllowas lies
upon Hie wi'Hlern veru'e of Ihe eoiilemplaled In-
dian srllleinenl, and eonscipieiilly opens an
niilimiled rani;r !o Ihe westward. Their (Jov-
rrnnient is hased on Ihe old Hyslem id' Jiidian
Cliieflaineies.

Iininediately on Ihe north of llic Weas and
Piankashas, the 1'oorias and Kask.iskias and
Oltowas, lies Ihe eoimlry of Ihe Shawiieis, or
Shawalioes. It e.xtends aloni; Ihe line of Ihe
Stale of Missouri north '^f* miles lo the Missouri
Kiver at its jniietion with the Konzas, llienee lo
11 |Kiiiil 111) miles on a direel conrse to the lands of
Ihe Kanzans, Ihenee south on Ihe Kanzans line li
niileH ; and from these lines, with a hreadlh of
about t'J miles lo a north anil south line, I'ill
niilcK west of llie Slate of .Missouri, eoiitainin;;
1,1)011,111)11 aeres. Their prineipal settlements are
on the iiorlh-easlem corner of their eoiinlry, he-
Iween the Missouri lM)rder and Ihe Kon/.as IJiver.
iMostof them live in neat-hewed lo^.ealiins.i'reeled
hy themselves, and partially supplied with liiniiliire
oflheirown inaiinlactiirc. Their fields are inclosed
with rail-l'cnces, and snlUeienlly larjie to yield plen-
litnlsnpplicsid'corn and culinary ve[rilal)|eH. 'I'hi'y
keep cattle and swine, work oxen, and use horses for
draught, and own s<inie plonudis, waj;ons and carts.
They lia.'o a saw and ^risl-niill, erected hv < Govern-
ment at an expense ol' aUint .'ii(.'^,IMHI. 'I'his, like
maiiv other cmiirranl tribes, is much S'-allired.
Hesid<s the two bands on the Neosho, already nicii-
tioncd, there is one on Trinity IJiver, in Ti \as, and
others in divers places.

I 'nder the snperiiiteiidi'iicc of Missionarii's of va-
rious dcnomiiiatioiis, these people are m.ikin<.r con-
nidcrable progress in lOduealion and Ihe .Mechanic
Arts. Tliey have a rrinling-l'iess anioii'; them,
from which is issued a niontlily periodical, enti-
tled the " Shanwawnone Kesanlliwan "— Sliawa.
noi' Sun.

'I'lie lands of tlic Dclawares lie north of the
ShawanocH, in the forks of the Kon/.is and .Mis.
souri Hiveis; cxIcndiM;; up the liirmer lo the
Kan/. Ills lands, Ihenee north ".' 1 miles, lo ihc iiorlh-
c ist corner of the Kau/ans survey, up tin' Missouri
'JH miles in .1 direct course to t 'antounient Leaven-
worth, thence with a line westward lo a point ID
miles iiorlh of the north-east corner ol the Kaiizaiis
survey, and then in a slip not more than II) miles
wide, it extends wislwardly aloiiir the northern
Ixiimdary of the Kuuzaiis, liiO miles from the Stale
of Missouri.

Thevlive in the eastern portion of their eoiinlrv,
near the junction of the Konzas and .Missouri
Rivers ; htivc good hewn log-honses, and sonic
furniture in them ; inclose their lields with rail-
fences ; keep cattle and hogs ; apply horses lo
draught; nse oxen andploiiglm; oiillivalo corn
luid garden ve({etableM «uHicieiit for use ; jiave

eommenced Ihe ciiltiirp of wheat ; and own a
j grist and saw-mill, ercrtrd hy the I'nitrd Stntro.
Some of these people remain in the Ijakr ronnlry;
a few are in Texas; about ! 1)1) reside on the f 'hoc.
law lands ne.ir .\rkansas Uiver, 1'2() miles west of
Ihe ."^tatc of .\rkansas. These Intter have aeipiired
Ihc languages of the ('uniaiieli(s, Keawa.s, I'aw-
. CCS, &■•; and are extensively employed as inler-
piclers bv traders from the Indian Territorv. The
Treaty of Septenihcr, \»i>[), provides ;hat'Hti tier,
tionsofthe liinl I 111(1 within the district at that time
ci'di'd to till riiiled States, In' selected anil sold, and
Ihe proceeds apjiiii d lo the snpiMirt of .-^choolH for
the ediiealion ol DelaUMre children. In the year
If^.'l^, Ihe Dclawiiris agreed lo . I conimulation of
>^'l per acre, which secures to them an lOdiication
riiud of-Slfl,!)!)!).

The country of the Kanzans lies on the Konzas
River. 1 1 commeni'cs til) miles wesi fd' the Slate
of Missouri, and Ihenee, in a width of ."10 miles,
exieiids westward as far as the plains can be in.
habited. It is well watered and limheied ; and,
in every respect, delightful. They are a lawless,
dissolute race, roriiicrly they comiiiitted many
depredations ii|hiu their own traders, and other
persons asieniling Ihi' .Mi.ssoiiri Kiver. j5iil,
being latterly restrained in this regard hv lh(^
t'nilcd .States, they have turned llieir predatory
operations upon their red ncighlMirs. In lan-
giiage, habits and eondit in in life, they are, in
elVeet, the same as the ( ) ages. In mailers of
I'caec and War Ihc two tribes an^ blended.
They are virtually one I'eoplc.

Iiikc the O.sages, Ihe K.iiizans arc ignorant and
wrclclied in Ihe exireme; UMeomnionlv servile,
.and easily managed by the white men who reside
among them, .\liiiost all ol lliein live in villages
of straw, bark, Hag ,iud earth lints. These latter
are in the form of a cone; wall two feet hi thick-
ness, siippirled hy wooden pillars within, liikn
the other huts, these have no floor except the

earth. 'I'iic lire is built in III litre of the iii-

Icrior area. 'I'lic smoke escapes at an opening in
the ap'X of the cone. The door is a mere hole,
I through which they crawl, closed by the skin of
some animal suspended Ihcriiu. They cnltivaln
] small patches of corn, beans and melons. They
dig Ihc groinid with hoes and sticks. Tlicu' ticlds
gciiirally are not fi need. 'I'licy have tine, how-
ever, of .'t(l') acres, wliii'h the I'liitid Stales six
years ago ploughed and fenced for them. The
principal Chiefs have log-houses built by the tiov-
crniiient .\gent.

It is eneoiiragiiig, however, to know that tlirse.
miserahle creatures are beginning to yield lo Ihe
elevating indnciK es around llicm. .A Missionary
has indneed some of tin in lo leave the villages,
make separate settle iiienls, build log. houses, \<'.
The linited Slates have liniiished them with four
j yokes of oxen, one waL'on, and other ineaim of
I cnllivating the soil. They have succeeded in
I stealing a large number of horses anil mules ;
i own a very few hogs; no stn"k cattle. Hy a
}; treaty formed with llieiii in IHrJ.'i, Dli sections, or
:2!t,ll II) acres, of good land wire to be selected and
sold to edniale Kaiiz tus children within their Ter-
ritory. Hut proper care not having l«'en taken in
making the selection. '.I.OIIII acres only have lieeii
sold. 'I'he remaining II, 1)11) acres of the tract,
I il is Slid, will Kcarcely sell at any price, eo utterly

Travels in the Great Western Prairies,

wortlilcRR iF it. Urticr only •$! 1,250 liavc been
realized from thin iiiiiiiifit;ent apprnprljilion. Hy
the RuniP trenty.pmviHinii \\m» made Inr the appli-
cation of J^tiflli per annniii, to aid tlirni in .\;;ri.
cnlturi'.

Till' Kifka|Mio lands lii' on tiie north of lln'
l>rla\vari»; rxli nd up the Missonri river ;tll
iniU'H (lirtcl, thence \vrt;t\vard aliiMit I,') miles, and
thenee Honth ~'> niilcK to the Ihluware line, em-
hraeini; 7()H,()(I(I acTcs.

They live on the M'litheastcrn extremity of tiirir
landH, near Cantoninrnl Leavenworth. In regard
to eiviliv.ation, their eninliiion is hiinilar to th.-it of i
the Peorias. 'I'hey ;iie niipinjj n Kurplns of the [

(rraioH, \e. — hav dlle and \\ojth — ,<jj7(lll worth ;

of tho latter, and .'lit) iiead of the former from the
United .States, in ohedienee to treaty Kli|inlatioii» ; '
have alHPiit .'ID yoke of oxi n — 1 1 yoke of them pnr-
ehawd chietly with the prochiee of their farms;
have a saw and (rrist mill, erected hy the I'niled
States. Nearly one. half of the Irihc. are unsettled
and scattered — some in Texas, others with the |
Houtherii trihes, and still others ran^insr the moini- '
tauis. The treaty of ( )etoher lil, liilt'i, |)rovides ,
that the United .sVilis shall pay §.')l)0 per annum
for II) Rueeessive years, for the support of a school, '
purchase of hooks, \.c. for theheneht of the Kieka- j
|)0o tnln,' on their own lamls. A schnol-house and :
teacher have henn furnished in eonforniily with
this stipulation. The same treaty provides JJil,IIUU
for labor and improvements on the Kickapoo |
lands.

The Saukfi, and Keynards or Foxes, speak the '
suiie lanjruajre, and are so perfictly consolidated
hy intermarriaj{e« and other tii s of interest, as, in •
fact, to he one nation. They formerly owned the
northwestern half of the State of Illinois, !ind a .
large p.irt of the State of Missouri. N'o Indian
tribe, except the .Sioux, has shown such darin'j in-
trepidity and such imidacable hatred towards
other tribes. Their enmity, when once excited, was
never known to be appeased, till the arrow and
tomahawk had for ever prostrated their foes. For
centuries the prairies of Illinois and Iowa were tiie
theatre of their exterminatiiiL^ prowess; and to
them is to be attributed the almost entire destruc-
tion of the Missouris, the Illinois, Cahokias, Kas.
kaskias, and Peorias. 'I'hey \yere, however, steady
and sincere in their friendship to the whites ; and
many is the honest old settler on the Ixirders of
their old (k)niinlon, who mentions with the warm-
est feeliiiirs, the resjieethil treatment he has re-
ceived from lliem, while he cut tin' loj;sforhis
cabin, and plou^fhed his " potato patch" on that
lonely and iin|)ioteeled frontier.

Like all the tribes, however, this also dwindles
away at the approach of the whites. A sadden,
iujj fact. The Indians' bones must enrich the soil,
iM'fore the plougli of civilized man r;m ojieii it. — '
The noble lieart, educated by the lempesl to endure
the last pann of departing; life without a erinije of
a imiiiele ; that heart, educated by his condition
to love with all the powers of hein;,', and to hati'
H ith the exasperated mali(.rnity of a demon ; that
heart, educated by the voii'e of its own existence
— the sweet whisperings of the streame — the holy
flowers of spring — to trust in, and ndorc the Cireat
producing and Bustaining Cause of itself, and the
broad world and the lights of the upper skies, must
fatten the corii-iiills of u more civilized race I The

sturdy plant of the \viUlrrnc»a droops under the
enervaling culture of the garden. The Indian is
buried with his arrows and Ikiw.

In IH3:2 their friendly relations withtlieir wliitc
neighlKirs were, I believe, lor the first time, scrioni-
oiisly interriipled. A treaty had been formed be.
tween the chiefs of the tribe and eominissioners,
representing the United States, contiiiiiing, among
other stipulations, the sale of their lands north ol
the Kock Uiver, ite., in the State of Illinois. —
This tract of country contained the old villages
and burial places of the trilii'. It was, indeed, the
saiieluary of all that was yeiierabhr and sacred
among liiem. They winlireil and summorcd there
long before the date of their historical legends.
And on these flowering plains the sjioilsof war —
the loves of early years — every thing that delights
man to remember of the past, clung closely to the
tribe, ind made Ih :ii disRatislied with the sale.
I!l;ick-Ilawk was the. principal chief. He, too,
was unwilling to leave his village in u charming
glen, at the month of Kock IJiver, and increased
the dissatisfaction ol' his p((iple by declaring that
■'the white chiefs had deceived himself and the
other contraetiii'r chiefs" in this, " that he had
never, and the other chiefs had never eonsenled to
such a sale as the while chiefs had written, and
I were attempting to enforce upon them." They
dug up the painted tomahawk with great enthusi-
! asm, and fought bravely by their noble old chief for
their beaiitifnl home. lint, in the order of nature,
' the plough must bury tlie hunter. And so it was
with this truly great chief and his brave tribe. —
They were driven over the Mississippi to make
room for the niarshalled host of veteran husband-
nien, whose strong blows had leveled the forests of
I the .'Vtlantic Stales; and yet unwearied with
planting the rose on the brow of the wilderness,
dcinanded that tlie Prairies also should yield frjod
to their hungry sickles.

I The country assigned them as their permanent

; residence, adjoins the southern boundary of the

the Kiekapoos, and on the north and noitheast the

Missouri river. They are but little improved. —

; I'uder treaty slipuliitions, they have some few

houses and tields made for them by the United

States, and are entitled to more. Some live stock

; has been given them, and more is to be furnished.

The main Imdy of the Saiiks, usually denominated

the .Sauks and Foxes, (sliinated at 1,11(10 .sonis, re.

I side on the Iowa river, in Iowa Territory. They

I will ultimately be removed to iniappropriated lands

; adjoining those already occupied by their kindred

j within the Indian Territory. Ilolh these bands

I number 13,100. Hy the" treaty of Prairie dn

liChien of 1^:10, the Sauks arc entitled to ,«i,')00 a

jyear for the pnrptises of education. Hy treaty of

li Seiitember, l^i|)ti, they are entitled to a school-

! master, a farmer, and blaidisniith, as long as the

I United States shall deem jiroper. Three com.

! .brtable houses arc to be erected for them ; 'MM

'• acres of prairie land fenced and ploughed ; such

! agricultural im|deineiits furnished as they may

need for tlve years ; one ferry-boat ; "JOS head of

I cattle; lOU stock hogs; and a flouring mill. —

' These benefits they arc receiving ; but are making

I an improyident use of them,

I The country of the lowasctmtains 128,000 acres

i: adjoining the northeastern lionndariesof the Sauks,

with the Missouri river on the northeast, and the

greal|
tioii
wbiel
the <|

to till
lilW:|

withl

latter

a IK I

sourl

of 11

tlieil

the

ulxii

rxtti

audi

em r

HOUl

of t|

as i

tra'

froi

leu;

wii

in the Roeky Mountains, the Oregon Territory, \<:

"ps imrler tlip
''"I"' IiKliun JH

Ih llicir wliilc
tunc, Hcrifjiii.
■" I'ormcd lic-
"iiinissioiiciH,
I'li'iJ,', niiiruitr
iiiiIh north ol
"<■ llUnm

"l<l VlllajrcH

inclfcd, (He
"I'd Kucri'd
I'inored llim;
■'cnl Ivirvmin.
>"rlao('ttiir

"lilt dclifrlilH

loHcly lo Ihc
■|lll tin; siilr.
'■ il'\ too,
11 fhiirniinjj
ikI incrciiscd
r'-'l-uiiiK tlint
'Sill' nnd till!
' I'lat he had
t-'onwnUul (o
written, and
'I'licy
•■"■"t enthusi-
old ell ief for
tr of nalnre,
lid KG it uaH

"ivc Irihe

'I'i to make
III husband,
'lie forests i.r
•aried Willi
wilrlerness,
'' yield food

permanent
lary of the
>itheast the
iij)roved

.'■■oiiic f,.„.

•I"' I'liiird
' live stock

t'lirnislied.
iiiiiiinatcd
I' souls, re.
ry- They
ated lands
r kindred
fsc bands
'rairie du
o .'SSOOa

treaty of

a school.
■Iff as the
i'<'e coiii-

i?d; such
ipy may

head of
: mill.—

inakiiijT

"JO acres
e Sauks,
and the

lliey unit

iv the Sal

great Neinalm river on l)ie north. Their nondi- ! is to ho furnished them for the snmfi lcn(jtli of
tion is similar to that of the Sauks. The aid lime. Another treaty obligates the I'nited Sintcii
wliieh they have received, and are lo receive from to ploupli and fence one hundred acres of land
the (Jovernmcnt, is alKiiit the name in iiroportion for tliem, and to expend for the term of ten years,
to their iiuiuIkts. The villa^re of the S.iiiks and !$50n annually, in educatiii!; (/•maha children,
lovvas, are within two miles of each other. The T'lmealis or I'onsnrs, are the remnant of a

The Otoes, arcllKMlescendaiMsof llie Missouris, ' nation of respectahh^ iniportimce, formerly living
with whom lliey uniteil iller the rediulion of the U|H)n Red river, of Lake Winnipeg. IIavin(r

been nearly deslroyed by the Sioux, tliev removed
to the west side of the Missouri riv(T, where they
built a forlifiid villa<;e, and remained sonu^ years;
but beinj; piirKiied by their ancient enemies, the
Sioux, ami reduced liy continual wars, they joined
the Omalias, and so far lost their ori|rinul
character, as to be undiHliniruishablc from them.
They however, after a while, resumed ii separate,
cxislence, which they continue to maintain. They
n side in the nnrtliein extremity of the Indian
Terrilorv. Tbiir circumstances are similar tu
those of the Pawiiei"^.

TIk' r.iwnees own an extensive, counli-j-, lying
west of the OloiS and Omahas, on Ihi' (ileal
I'lalle river. Tliiir villa;ris are upon this stream,
and its lower trilnilarieii. They are said to liavi^
iiboul .•}.')l)(l warriors, .\nionir them are still to
be found every custom of old Indian life. The
earth hut — the sealpiii;; Unite — the tomahawk —
and the scalps of their foes, danj;liiii.j from the
posts in their smoky (hvcllinys— the wild war.
erii 8 — the venerated medicine baj;, with the ralu.
uinet of peace — the sacred wampmn, that records
their treaties — the feasts and dances of peace, and
of war — those of m;irria(;e, and of sacriliee — the
moccasins, and leir;iiiis, and war.caps, and horrid
paintiii^rs — the moons of the year, as March, the
worm moon,' .\])ril the ' iikkhi of plants,' .May

latter tribe by t[ie Sauks ami Koxes. They claim
a isirlioil of liiid Ivin;; i'l the fork between Mis.
souri and (Ireat I'Fatle rivers. 'I'he (iovernmeiil
of the I'nited States undcistaiid, however, that
their lands extend southward from the i'lalle down
Ihe .Missouri to Little Nemaha river, a distance of
alKiul forty miles ; thenee their southeni iHPundary
extends westward up Litlb^ Nemaha lo its source,
and thence duo West. Their western and north,
erii boundarii s are not particularly defined. Their
soullier Ixiuiidary isalKiut twenty. live miles N'orlli
of Ihe lowa'shmd. lly treaty, such of their tribe
as an; related lo Ihc whiles, have an iulerest in a
lra"t adjoinin;f the ^Missouri liver, and exiendini;
IVoiii till! Iiillle .N'emalia lo Hie (ireut Xemalia, a
leu^rth of alHiul Iwenly-ei^lil miks, and ten miles
wide. N^o IndiallH reside fin this tract.

The condition of this people is similar lo that ol'
the Osajreii and Ivair/.aus. The Uniled Stales
(ioveniment has I'eneed and ploughed for theiii
Kin acres of land. In IhilJS, they cultivated ;tO(l
acres of corn. Thev own six plom^lis, furnished
by (iovcrnmeiit. '1 heir pro^enitoib, l!ie Mi«sou.
ris, were, when the French first knew the country,
the most numerous tribe in the vicinity of S.iiiil
IjOuIs. And the (jrcat stream, on whose banks
they reside, and Ihe .St.ilr which has risen upon
their huntin;; ({rounds when the race is extinct,
will bear their name to the [jcneratioiis of coming the ' moon of flowers,' .luiie the ' hot moon,' July

time. They are said to have been an ener;;etic
and thrifty race, Indore they were visited b}' the
iinallpox an<l the destroyiii}; veuffeanee of the
Sauks aixl Fo.xcs. Tlie site of their ancient vil.
laj^e is to be seen on the north bank of the river,
honored with their name, just below where (iraud
river now enters it. 'J'lieir territory embraced the
fertile country lying a considerable distince alons;
the .Missouri, II tjove their villaije — and down lo
the mouth of the ()s;i;;c, and tlienc-e to the Mis.
sissippi. The O.sages consiiier theiii their inferiors,
and treat them oftentimes with (rreat iiidi;rnity-
The Omahas own Ihe country north of the
inoiith of the (Jreat Flalte. The .Missouri river

the ' buck moon,' Aui.;ust the ' sturi^eoii moon,'
Seplemlier Ihe ' corn moon, October the ' travelinpr
moon,' NovcihImt the 'Ix'avcr moon,' December
the ' liuiilini; moon,' January the ' cold moon,'
February the 'snow moon ;' and in reference toils
phrases, the " dead moon," and " live moon j"
and days arc counti'd by ' sleeps,' and their years
by ' snows.' In a word, the Pawnees ere as yet
uiiclianiied by the enliijhtcnini; influences of
knowledjje and reiijjion. The pliilanlliropy of
Ihe United Slates (ioverimient, however, is put.
tinU within their reach every inducement to iiu-
provi ineiil. l!y treaty, .Sii.tHtl) worth of agricul.
lural implements are to Ih: furnished them annu.

is considered its northeaslerii limit ; the northern ally, for the term of five years or lonp;er, at the

and westfrn lHum<lary are undefined. This tribe discretion of the President of the I'nited States;

was formerly the terror of their neiijhiiors. They also, !$ 1, 1)00 worth of live slock, whenever the

had, in early times, about one thousand warriors, President shall believe them jircpared to profit

and a proportionate number of women, and I'liil. thereby ; also )jJ^,(IO(l annually, to 1m> ex]Kndcdin

dren. IJul the small-iKix visited them in the year supporlinw two sinitheries, with two smiths in

1H02, and reduced the tribe to about three liiiii- each; for su]>plvin}r iron, steel, &c., for the term

dred souls. This so dislie.irtcned those that siir. of ten years; also four prist mills, propelled by

vived, that they burnt their vilUiffe and Ixcame a horse |K)wer; also four farmers durinir the term of

wandcriii); pco])Ie. They have at last taken pos. five years. Also, the sum of §1,000 annually,

session ajrain of their country, and built a villajje for ten years, is to be allowed for the 8up|X)rt of

on the southwest bank of the Missouri, at a |ilace schools ainontj them.

chosen for them by the I'nited States. Their These are the einiirrant and native Indians with,

huts arc constructed of earth, like those of the in the ' Indian Territory," and their several con.

Otoes. A treaty made with them in July, 183!), ditions and circumstances, so far as I have l)cen

lirovides that an annuity of !j!5(IO shall be paid lo able to learn them. The other Indians in the Great

them in agricultural nnplements, for ten years Prairie Wilderness will bo briefly noticed under

thereafter, and longer if the President of the Uiii- two division.s — those living South, nnd those liv-
tcd fc>t»tc8 thinks proper. A blacksmith also, J ing North of the Great Platte river.

»e

Travels in the (Ureal Western Prairie*,

Tlitrr iirr living on tlic liriul uiilcrH nl' |{((l riv- '
cr, and l)rt\viTn (Imt rivtr ami llji' Rio llravo drl
Nortr, Ihc. rcin.iinB of twelve (litlerriil Irilirs — ten [
of wliieli have tin nveru(,'e populiitioiinf twolnm-
(Ircd houIb; none of tlieni nninlier morn llinii four I
hundred. The CaninkouiiK and Tetans or Cii. |
jnanrheN, arc more ninnercMis. Thi' fornier live
iib'iut the Bay of St. Ilernar<l. They were always
ininiiciil to the Mexieant* and Spaniards; never |
would Huccuinb to their aulliority, or reeeive their j
rolijriouH tenejiers. And many hard Ipatlles were I
fought in muintainin;; their inile|iendenei' in these
reepeetH. In \!il'i, they amonnlid to alioiil three
thousand individuals ; ni wliieli six hundred were
warriors.

'riieCumaneliPsaresupposed to lie Iwcrily llion-
sandhtroiiK. 'I'lii'v are ii hrave, vaprant tribe, and
never reside hut .. few days in a place; hut travel
north with the ludValo in the .sunnner. and as win.
tcr eomcH on, return willi them to the plains west
of Te.xas. They traverse Ihe, inmunse nyial-v
of eountry exteiuinii; from the 'I'rimty and Urazoti
to the Ued IJiver, and Ihe liead waters of the .\r.
kansas, uud Colorado o( Ihe west, lo the I'aeilic
Oer III, und llience (o the head streams of the
Missouri, und tlienei- Ui their winter hainils. They
liHve tents, made of ni'ally dret.srd skins, in the
form of cones. Tliese, « hen ll.i y stop, are pitched
BO as to forn" streets and squares. They pilch
nnd strike these tents in an aslonishincly short
ispaee <d time. To every ten! is attached two
paek.horscs, the one to carry Ihe tint, and the
other the (Kjlishcd cedar poles, with which it is
spread. Tlicse loaded in u tricf — the saddle lioisi s
Iiarnesscd in still less time — twenty thousand sav-
ages— men, women, children, warriors and chiefs —
st.irlat a signal whoop, travel the day, again raise
tlieir eity of tents to rest and feed themselves anil
animals, for another march.

Thus passes life with the ( 'umanehes. Their
plains are covered with hulValo, elk, deer, and wild i
horses. It is said that they drink the hlood of tin
bufl'alo warm from the veins. 'I'hey also cat the I
liver in its raw state, using the gall as sauce. The
drcBS of the women is a long loose robe that icaelies i
from the chin to the ground, made of deer skin '
dressed very neatly, and painlid with tigiires of
difl'erent colors and signilicatioiis. The dress of
the men is close pautakions, and a himting.sliirt or j
frock made of the sami^ heaulil'iil uiatirial. 'I'hey I
are a warhkc and hrave riiee, and stand in the rela-
tion of con<|uerors amoiig the trihes in the south. ;
The ."Spaniards ( Xew .Me.\ieo are all ai'(iuainled ],
with the strength of their enemy, and their power |
to punish those whom they hale. I'or many are !
the sculps and death dances among these lu<iians, |
that testify of waisaiul tomahawks which have dug [
tombs for that |)oor apology of European extrne- II
tion. 'I'hey are cvcceciinidy fondof stcalingllie oh- I
jccts of their eniinies' atieeti. >n. J'emale children ''.
are sought with the greatest a'-idily, and adopted i,
or married. " Alxiiit sixty years a ;o," as the tale |
runs, "the danghter of the (ioveriior-lM'iicral at:
Chihuahua, wasalolen liy them. The father imme- ['■
diately pursued, and hy an agent after sonic weeks |:
liad elapsed, purchased her laiiv' 'in. I!ut shcrehised |
to return to her parents, anil si iit them these words :
' That the Indians had tat looed her face according
to their style of beauty — had given her to Ix- the
wife of a yoiuig man by whom bIic believed herself J

eiiciente— that her husband treated her well, and
rccouc-iled her to his mode of life — that she would
be iiinde more unhappy by returning to lirr father
under these eircuiiiBtances, than by remniniriK
wlirre she was.' !^he continued to live with li(T
hiiihand in the nation, and raised a family of
ehildicn."

There arc the reniuins of fifteen or twenty tribe*
in that part of the (Jreat I'rairie VVilderiiesH north
of the (ireat Platte, and north .ind west of thn
Indian Territory. They average aliout HOO each.
The Sioux and the Biiiall-pox have reduced them
thus.
i The Kiiistcneau cliieny reside in the Drilinh
|K)s,sessions along the norlhcrn shorcKof Lake Sn-
jicrior. .'■iome hands of them have established
themselves south of latitude l!l degrees Norlh,
near the head waters of these branches of Ked
Kiver of Ijake Winnipeg, which rise wmtli of thn
sources of the IMississippi. They are niodorato
in stature, well proportioned, and of great ai^tivily.
' .Alaeken/.ic remarks that their i^ounlenanees arc
frank and agrceahle — that the females are well-
formed — and their features are more regular and
comely than those of any other trilw! In' saw n|X)n
Ihcconlinent. Tiny are warlike— iimnber al>out
.■|,IMI(I ; hut the Sioux are annihilating them.

'I'he Sioux claim u country eipial in extent to
some of the most powerful cin|)ires of l')nro|M'.—
Tliiir iKinndaricB " coiiimenee at Ihe I'rairie dcR
Chillis, and ascend the .Mississippi on l)oth sides
lo the river iJeCorbeaii, and up that to its source;
from thence to the sources of the .St. Peters, thence
to the ' .Montaigne de la Prairie,' thence lo flic
,Mis,-«)nri, and down that river to the Oinahas,
thence to the sources of the river Des MoinB, and
thence to the place of beginning." They also
claim a large tenilory south of the Missouri.

The country from Kinii liiver to the River de.
(■orlH'au is claimed by them and Ihe CliipjiewayB,
and has been the source of many bloody encoun-
ters for the past "MM years. ThcBe Indians have
coin|uered and destroyed immense nuinberH of
their race. They have swept the banks of Ihe
.Mis.wnri from the (Jreat Falls to the ninnlh of
(jre.it Platte and the plains that lie north of the
latter streaiii, helwecn the Itlack Hills and the
Mississippi. They are divided intonix bands, viz, ;
the .'\lenowa Koulong, which resides around thn
falls of .St. Anthony, and Ihe lower jKirtion of St.
Peter's Kiver; the Washpetoiig, still higher on
thai stream; the .Susselong, on its head waters
and those of Red River, of Lake Winnipeg; the
Yaiiklons of the North, who rove over the plains
on the Imrdrrs of the .Missoiiii valley south of the
sources of the St. Peter's; the Vonktons .Ahnah,
who live on the Missouri near the entrance of
.lames River; the Telons Itniles ; Tetons Okan-
(landau ; Telons IMinnekincazzo, aiul Tetons Sa-
hoiie, who reside along the banks of the .MiKsouri
from the tircat lleml northward lo the villages of
the Riccarees. 'J'hcirs is the country from which
is derivi'd the coloring matter of that river. The
|)laiiis are strongly imiiregnati (1 with GlaulKT B"lts,
alum, copperas, and sulphur. In the sprii ; of
the year immense bhill's fall in the stream; and
these, together with the leacliings from these medi-
cated prairiex, give to the waters their mud color,
and purgative qualities.

Tlicse bajids comprise about 28,000 souls. They

in the RorJcy Mountnina, the (htfron Territory, i^.

Wfll, (ind

hrr lather
(MiinininjT
• with licr
faiiiily of

•nlytrilwB
i< SH north
I'Ht of thii
HOOrach.
|'<(I llirni

rnhniKl iip(m btifTHlo inn' nnil Ihr will! friiiln of
thrir forrnls. Thr form i is prcpiircd for winter,
nnd for travHini; iiRe, in the follnwinfj innnner: —
The Irnn pnrtp < ' 'he bntFnlo nre rut into Ihiii
pheeo, dried over a slow tire, in the Hun, or by ex-
)w>aing it to frost — |Kpmided fine, and then, with a
|«irtion of berricH, mixed with an iipial ipiantity
of fill from the hnmpH and brihldt, or willr mar-
row, in a iNiihntr Htale, mid sowed up tightly in
HaekH of yreen hid«, or paeked elowly in liankels
of wieker work. This " |«'miciiii," an they rail
it, will keep for wvoral years. 'I'liey also use
iniieh ofihe wild liee — avena fatiia — which (;rows
ill preat almndanee on the St. I'eterV, and anion:;
the lakes and head slreamH of t{ed Kiver, ol
\Viiinipeir, and in other |>artH of their territory.
It crows in water from four to seven feel deep wiih
a muddy iHittoni. The plant rises from four to
eight feet alHive the surface of the water, iilmul
the si/.eof the red eatie of Tennessee, full of jomls,
and of the color and texture of hullriislicH ; the
Blalks alHivc the water, iind the hraiiehes which
bear the (Traill, resemble oats. To these slraiiL'c
grain fields the wild duck nnd geese ritiort for fond
in the Fiimnier. And to prevent it from iH'ing de-
voured ))y them, the Indians tie it, when the ker.
ncl is in the milky state, just IkMow the head, into
large biiiiehes. This arr.ingemeiit. prevents these
birds from pressing the heads down within their
reacli. When ripe, thi^ Indians pass among it with
eanops lined with lilankets, into whi<'li they lieiid
thestalks, and whipofflhe grain with sticks; and
so abundant is it, Ihatan expert sipiaw will soon fill
ii canoe. After being galliered, it is dried and put
into skins or baskets for use. Thcv Iniil or parch
it, and eat it in the winter season with their peiiii-
can. 'i'liis plant is found no farllier south than
Illinois, no farther east than .S.mdusky liay, and
north nearly to Iliidt^n's Itay. The rivers and
lakes of the .Sioux and Cliippeway coiinlrvaie said
to prodilie annually several million bushels of
it. It is equally asniitrilioiis and jiiilatable .is the
Carolina rice. I'arverulso says that the St. I'eters
flows through a country producing s|)oiitaneiiiislv
all the neeessaries of life in the greulesi abumi.
aiiee. llesides Hie wild rice, he inforiiis us that
every part of the valley of that river " is filled
with trees bending under their loads of plums,
grapes, anil apples — the meadows with hops, and
many wrls of vegetables — while the ground ,is
stored with edible roots, and covered with such
amazing ipiantities of siigar-inaple, that llicv
would produce sugar enough for any number of
inhabitants."

jMr. Carver seems to have been, to say the least,
rather an iiithusiastie admirer of n.itiire; aiidal.
♦ hough later travelers in the eoimlrv of the Naii-
dowessies (Sioiixl have not l« i ii abli- to Hud
grouped within it all the fruits and fiowersof an
I'jden ; yet that their lands Iving on the Missis.
sippi, the .St. Peters, imd the Ued Rivera, pioduee
ii luxuriant vegetation, groves of fine timber sepa.
rated bj' open plains of the rich wild grasses, and
by lakes and streams of pure water well stored
with fish ; and that tliere are many valuable edible
roots lluTe ; and the wliorlleberry, blackberry,
wild pnmb and crab.appic ; other and later trav-
elers have seen and declared ; so that no doubt
can be entertained that this talented and victori.
ous tribe posscsH a very dciirublo and beautiful

country. .\ revolted band of tiir Sioux enlled
Osini|)oillcH, live near the Kocky .'Nloiintnins u|ion
the .SnBcatehiwine River, n pleas.Tnt ''liampaign
country, alioimding in game. Tliry subsist by
by the cliase, and the spoils of war. Their num.
ber is estimated to be H.llllll. Their dwellings arn
neat conieal tents of tanned liiilValo skins.

The Chippewyaiisor( 'liippeWiivs,weresiip|iosi d
by Iicwis and Clark to inhabit liie country lying
between the (iOHi and ILIth parallels of north lati-
tude, and 10(1 and I Ml degrees of west longiliiile.
< tiller aiilhorities, and I believe the more eorieel,
assert that tlev also occupy the head walcrs oftlic
>lississi|ipi, Oilcrtail and l/cacli, I)e Corbciiii and
Red Rivers, and Winnipeg lake. They are ii
niimeious tribe, speak a copious language, are
linioioiis, v.ignint,and sellisli ; stature rather low ;
features coarse ; hair lank, and not iiifreipiently
a siiiiburnt brown ; women more agreeable (and
who can doubt the fact^ than llie men; but have
.III awkward siile-ala-time gait ; which proceeils
from their Iniiig aceusloineil, nine months in the.
year, to wear snow-shoes, and ilrag sledges of a
weight from SJMII to 100 pounds. They are en-
tirely submissive to their hiisbands; and for very
trilling causes are treated with such cruelty as to
produce death. These people iK^troth their eliil-
dreii when ipiite voiing ; and when they arrive at
jiiiberty the eeremony of marriage is perfoim^d ;
that is, the bridcgriMim |>ays the market price for
his bride, and lakes lier to his lodge, not " for
belter or for worse," but to put her away and lake
another when he pleases. I'liiralily of wives is
eiisloniaiy among llicni. Tliey generally wear
the hair long. The braves (aimetiines clip it in
faiilaslii' forms. The womi ii always wear it of
great lenglli, braided in two queues, and dang-
ling diiwii llie back, .lealous husbands sonietimes
des|Miil llieiii of these tresses. Itoth se.xe.s make
from one to four bars of lines upon the lorehead
or cheeks, by drawing a thread dipped in thi' proper
color beneath the skill of tlmsi' parts.

No people all' more attentive loeomforl in dress
lliati llie Chippeways. It is eoiii|>osed of decrand
fawn skill;", ilressed with the hair on, for the win-
ter, and without the hair for summer wear. Tli»
male wardrobi^ consists of shoes, l< ggins, frock
and ciip, \c. The shoes are madi' in the usual
moccasin I'orni, save that they sometimes use the
green instead of the tanned hide. The leggina
are madi' like Ihe legs of pantaloons unconnected
by a w.iistban 1. They reach to the waist ; and
are siipjKirlcd Ipv a bell. I'nder the Islt a small
piiee of leather is drawn, which serves as an
apron iHl'ore and behind. The shoes and leggins
arc .u'wed together. In the former are [iiil quan-
tities of moose and reindeer hair ; and addition. d
pieces III leather as socks. The frock or hunt,
iiigshirl is in the form of a peasant's frock.
When girded aioiind the waist it reaches to the
middle of the lliigh. The niilti lis are sewed to
the sleeves, or sus|iended by strings from the
shoulders. A kind of tippet surrounds the neck.
The skin of the deer's head furnishes a curious
covering to the head ; and a robe made of several
deer or fawn skins sewed together, covers the
whole. This dress is worn single or double, as
circumstances suggest ; but in winter the hair
side of the undersiiit is worn next the person, and
that of the outer one without. Thus arrayed,

Travels in the Great Western Prairies,

ihr f'hl|iprw.iy will hy liiiiiscU' down im tlio icr, ].
Ill llic iiiiildK' ol' a l;ikc, uiiil rr|Mw in conirort;
:in(l wlun rolcd, nml dim ncuinlxrcd of llic miiow-
driflH III It li.ivr idviri'd liiiii wliilc ll^l(•l•|>, lid
iiKiiinlH liin niiow-nIioi'h, mid tnivilx on witlioiil
Tear ol' IroslH or utoriii. 'I'lir iUvhh of tlm women
dillirs fiiiiii tliiit of null. 'I'lliir lc,rjriiin urr tird
lirlow llic kiii'i' : iiikI tlirlr I'roi'U or I'liniilHc r.\-
li ndN ilcuvii lo llii! aiiklr. MhIIiith iiiiilii' tlirno
(,MiiiirMlH lurijr inoii({li uIhuiI (lie slioiildiTH lo hold
nil iiilUiit; and wlun tnivcliii^; r.arry llicir litlUi
oiH'H ii|><iii llicir l>ai'U» iikxl llie skin.

'I'liclr iiriiiH and (loincntii' ii|i|iiiriiliiN, in iiddilion
lo i;iiiis, &,!■., ol)t;iiiiiil from llic wliilr.i, arc Imiwk
and arrow.!, rifliin^,'-n('lH, and lines iiiiidi' <d' ijireii
di'cr Hkin iIioii^h. and luUof llir Hiiinc niatiri.d lor
cati'liin^ till' ln'uvrr, iih lie cNCapCH from liis lodnc
into llir Wilier; and Hled;ieH and hiiow-sIioih, 'I'he
Hiiow-filioeH are o( very Hii|i<'rior workininisliii).
'I'he iniu r part of the liaine is Hlraiylit ; tin: outer
one IH eiirvdl; the ends are hro\ijr|it to a poinl,
and in front turned up. 'This frame done, they
are neatly plaeed wdli li!clil lhon;,rH of deer skin.
'I'luir 8ledi;es arc made of red lir.trec Iwards,
neatly polished and turned np in front. 'I'he
iiRiiiiH of Biistainiiif; life in the eouiitry claimed
liy tlu'se Indians arc aliimilaiit ; and if snUk-ieiit
loretlioii^'ht were used in layni;^ in food for win-
ler, tli'V minlil live in eonipurative (oinforl. The
W(Hldle^s hills arc Co V' red with a moss that sus-
taiii-i tin: deer and moose and reindeer; and when
lioiled. lorniH a (XelatinouH suhslanec ipiito ac. ■

I :plalilc to the human palate. Their streams and
lakes are stored with the (rrealest uliundance of
valuible lisli. [tut although more provident than
any other Indians on Ihe contiiicni, they often
snll'er severely in llic dead of winter, when, lo
prevent dculli from rold, Ihey lire fioin their
lisliiiijf Flations to their scanty woods.

'I'liey are siipcr.stilious in the c.vlreme. Almost
cv( rv aelioii of their lives is iiithunccd by sonic
"himsiral iiolion. 'I'hey hclievc in the c.xislcnei-
'.: .1 (rood and evil spirit, Ihil ruli' in their several
dc]' nimeiils over the fortunes of men ; and in a
si.ilc of lulurc rewards and punishiru'iils. 'I'hey

II ive an older of priists who administer the riles
of their religion— <dl'er sucriliees at their solemn
leasts, i.'ce. They have conjurois who cure dis-
eases—as rheimialism, tlu.\ and eoiisinnplion.

'• The notion which these people cntcrlain of the
crc.ition is of a very siinjular nature. They hclicvp
that al lirsl llieearih was one vast and entire ocean,
inhaliileil liy no liviiii; creature e.\e.cpt a iiiifjhly
Hird, wliosi' eves were lire, wlios.' jrlaiices were
lij,'hlninj;, and the llappini; of whose winjjs was
lliunilir. On his dcseeiil to the ocean, and touch-
in;; it, the eurlli instanlly arose, and remained on
the surface of the waters. This omnipotent Itird
then called forth all the variety of animals from
the earth except lli(> ('hippewavs, who were pro-
duced from a do(j. And this eircunistanee occa-
sions their avi'ruion to the llesli of that animal, as
well as the people who cat it. This extraordinary
tradition proceeds lo relate that the (jreal, liird,
havinir iinishcd his work, iiuidc un arrow, which
was to be preserved w'illi great care and to re-
main untouched ; but that the C'hippewuys were
so devoid of understniidini; as to carry it away;
and the sacrilcfrc 8f) curugcd the great liird that
he huB never since apiwareU."

" They have nl«o a Iriidilioii nnioni; llicm thai
tlioy oriifiually came from anollnT country, in.
hibiled by very wicked people, and hail travermil
a i;reat hike, which was narrow, shallow and lull
of islaiida, where lliey hail sntVcred i;real misery —
it heini; always winter, with ice and diep snow.
At the ('opperniine liiver, where they had made
the first laiiil, the ground was cnvereil with cop-
per, over which a body of earth had silicic been
collecled to the ileplli of a man's lii);lit. They
believe, also, that in ancient limes, their ancosloiH
lived till their feel were worn out with walkiuc
and their Ihni.its with caliii;;. They descrilie a
delu[;e when Ihe waters spread over the whole
earth, e.iicept the lii(;liest momitains, on the lops
of which Ihey preserved thcmsilvos. They be-
licv(^ lliat immediately after their death they pass
into another world, where Ihey arrive at a lur({e
river, on which Ihey enibark in n stone canoe;
and that a gentle enrreiit bears lliem on to an
exlcnsivc lake, in the ei litre of which Ih u most
beautihd island ; and that in view id' this deli|rht.
ful abode they receive that pid^jenient for their
eondnet durin>; lili: which deterniines their final
slate and undlerablc allotment. If their good
actions are declared to predominate, thoy are
I laiiilod U|inii the island, where tlmrc is to bn no
end to their happinesH ; which, however, to their
notion, eonsints in an elernal enjoyment of sensual
i pleasure iwul carnal (rralificatiou. Itut if there be
I bud actions to wei)rli down the balance, the st«ne
' canoe sinks at once, and leaves them np to their
; chins in water, to behold and regret the reward
enjoyed by Ihe good, and clcrnally struggling, but
I with unavailing endciivors, to reaeli the blissful
island from which Ihey are excluded for ever."

It would be interesting, in closing IhiB notice of
the (ircat I'rairie wilderness, lo give an account of
Ihe devoted ^lissionaries of the various denomina-
tions who arc laUirmg to cullivatc the Indian in
I a manner which nl once licspeukH their goo^i senHC
and honest intentions. Hut as it would requite
more space and lime than can be devoted lo it
merely to jircscnt a skeleton view of their mulli-
f.irions doings, I shall only remark, in passing,
! that llicy appetir lo have ailopicd, in their plan of
operations, the principle that lo civilize these peo-
|de, one of the first slejis is lo create and gratify
those physical wants peculiar to the civilized
state; and also, that the most successful meauB
of civilizing their mental st.ite, is lo teach them
a language which is filled with the learning and
pcienees and the religion which have civdized
lOurope, that Ihey may enter at once and with
: the fuUest vigor into the inimense liarvcsts of
knowledge and virtue which past ages and su[h'-
rior races have prepared for tlicni.

rilAI'TER IV.

four Wn.i.iAM— its Sirumue, Owiien, People, AnImiiU,

I Buf^inrhs. Ailventurrk, and llu/.^rilii — A Oivhion — A Mdrcl)

i —Fori El Puelilu— Trappers ami WUiskey— A (jenius—

A'l AilvfiilunJUs Trnriuois— A Keiilurkinn— llnr^e* bijiI

SiTVaut— A Trnile— A Start— Arkflil.iitti anil Country—

Wnlfiiiin Mow liiliit,— Creek*— Kco Waliaitn — A I'iugue i» f

I Kurpt— t'wrditi'lHS— J.iiil's'ji IV»k— PikeV Peak— A HhUi

— riie Piison 1)1 ilie Arkansas— Kutraiie of ibe Rocky

MouDiaini, — A Vale.

j FoiiT WiLi.iA.M or Bent's Fortoii (lie north side
I of the Arkansas 8(1 miles north by east from Taos
i| in the Mexican dominions, and iilmut IliU miles
;i from the inuiuiiuins, wus erected by gentlemen

ill

owners in IM-3, for pnr

Spaniards of Santa I'c a

Clirymic and < 'unianelii

,,raparallelogr.im,lhcn<

of which are nUml l.'d

western llltl led in li ng

s( veil feel ill thickness a

or cighlicn feci in liigl

Ihroiigh a large g.itew:

which swing a pair of ii

the iiorth-wiHl and soul

cylindrical baslioiis, alKi

:H feet in higbt. The

for the use of llic eanii

command the fort and I

iiili Tior area is divided

and the l.irger of them

|Mirtiou. It is nearly a

story bouses, the well,

are on the north side; i

ranircs of oiic-Hlory liou

Hiuillishop, llii'gale, at

Ihe place of business.

hcrvants have their sli

meiils, and here arc lb

the IndiaiiH in Iheseasi

numbers and barter, an

guardianship of the i

loaded with grape, and

this area a passage lea

wall and tlieone.slory

yard, which occupies

within the walls. 'I'll

mules, tVe. to reiK)sc i

dationa at night, lb'

ami adjoining the wal

strongly built, and la

I,") of those large vehi

vcying Ihe licltrics

thence to the post.

mcr renders it necess,

sun.

The walla of the f(

arc conBtrueled ol ai

nienled together with

lloors of the bnildin

moislcned andlieali'i

lets ; the upper tlooi>

the roofs of all are n

the same material, f

transverse timbers ci

of Ihe houses beiiiL'

tine priimeii'ide in lli

charming climate.

in the business of ll

III be alK)Ut (ill. I'"

charge of one of the

ing lo market tln' I

gathered at Ihe fori

them new slocks o

Another parly is d

meal in Ihe neiglilx

in gnarding the a

daily food on tliebai

parly still, under

trader, goes into s-

trade, t'nc or mo

onolhcr of these par

post defend it and

eomjmny, &c. Kt

in the Rorky Mountains, the Ortgon Territory, ffi:

nwnen in 1839, (br piir|inM-fi «{ trailr with tlir :!

SpnriiiirdK of Snnin I'f iiiiil 'I'aoH, iiml llir Kiil.iw,
( licvcmir lUid ('iliiiiiiK'lii' lull: iiiH. It ik jii IIii' riinii
III II |iai'allrliii;r.iiii, llir iiorthrru iinil Hiiiitlirni nIiIcn
iir\\liirli arc nli'iiil l.'id lirt. iiml tlirraxtcrii ami
wrslrrri Mill li'cl m |riii;tli. 'I'lic walls arr nix or
Hrvc?i I'lrl ill tllirkliiHH at llic lian', and si vriitn ii
or ciiilitriii lift ill liii;lit. 'I'lir lort in intend
lliiKiiL'li a laryr (rali'way mi llir iMHlcrn sidr, in
wliirll Hwiiii; a Jiaii' id' ininirliHi' plaiiU diMirn. At
till' niirtli-wrsl and NUitlirisl rnrnrrn Htaniltu'ii
rvliiiilriral liaHliniiH, alHiiit III I'rrl m iliaiiii'trr and
;t'l fict III liiillit. 'I'ln'Hc arc |prii|)(rlv pi rloralcd
liir the use nl' tlii^ raiiiinn and Hiiiall arnis : ami
I'Miiiniand tin' Inrl and thr pliiinsarnund it. 'I'lii'
inti 'iiir .111 II in divided inlu two parts. 'I'lie one
and the Inner of llieni oeciipiiH tlie iiorlli-e.mtorn
|H)rlioii. It in nearly u mpiare. A raii^'e ol' two
Htnry liiiilKeH, tile well, and tlie lilaeksniitli shop
ale on the iiiirlh Hide; on \\ir west and xoiitli are
ran','eH ot oiie.Htory lionses ; on the c ii^t the hluek-
sniilli Hliop, the ({ale, and the outer wall. This is
the place ol' ImsinesH. IIi lo the ."Wnefs and their
servants have (heir sleepintr ami cookiiii; aparl-
nienls, and here ale the stnrelnaiM. In this are
the IndiaiiH in theseaKon of trade (r,,ther in larjre
nninhers and harter, and trade, and liny, under the
;;iiariliansliip of the (■arinnades of the ha^tioiis
III ided with lifape, and liiiikin'4 upon lliein. From
this area a passaj^e leads lielwein the eastern outer
wall and theone-slory houses, to the ear.il or e. ivy-
yard, whieli neeupies the reinaimler of the spaee
within the walls. 'I'liis is the place tor the horses,
iniileB, iVe. to re|K)se in salcty Iroin Indian depre.
datioiin at iiijjht. lieyond the earal to the wist
and adjoinintj the wall, is the w.iitoii. house. It is
Ktron^rly huilt, and hir(;e eiion<;li to shelter l'^ or
ITiof those lari;e vehicles which are ns<'d in eon-
veyinff the pellricH to .St. Ijoiiis, and gcKids
Ihcneo to the post. 'I'lie loni; ilroiiijht of snni.
nier renders it necessary to jirotect tin in from the
sun.

The walls of the I'oit. its haslions and houses,
are eoiiBlnicteil of adohirs or nnlmrnt hrieks, ee-
iiKiiled tDfiellier with a mortar nfelay. The lower
IliMirs of the Iviiildiirj are in iilc of clay a little ;
iiioistene<l and hrateii liaril with larf^'e wooden mal-
lets ; the iipper floors of the two.story houses and
the roofs of all are made in the same way and of
the same material, and are supported hv heavy
transverse timbers covered \iithlinish. 'I'lie tops
of the hon.ses heiii'i' tlat and (rn-velcd, fuinish a
tine proniinade in tlii' inooiiliifht eveii'.iifjs of that
ehiirininK climate. The ninnlxrof men employed
in the hiisiness of this eslahlishment is supposed
to he alK)Ut (ill. Filteen or twenty <d" them in
ehar(r(! of one of the owners, are employed in tak-
inj; to ninrket the Unlliilo rohes, &:e. which are
!,ratliered (it the lort, and in hrinirini; hack with
them new stocks of (joods for liitnre purchases.
Another iiarty is employed in linntinir Imtlalo
meal in the iieijfhlHirinf; plains; and still another
in I'uardinir the animals while they cut their
daily food on the hanks ol the river. And another
])arty still, under eommand of im experienced
trader, (roes into some distant Indian camp to
trade. Due or more of the owners, ami one or
onother of these parties that chances to lie at the
post defend it and trade, keep the liooks of the
comi)any, &c. Ench of these parties encounters

(lanKerit -'iiil Imrdsliipii from whir.li peiMoni within

the Uiriler^of civili/.iition would shrink.

The country in which the liirt is sitimted is in a
nniiucr the common liiid of several trilMS iinfriend.
ly alike toone anotherand the whiles. The Kiltaws
and ('Iwyeimcs of (lie moimtaiiiH near ."»iiiita !''(■,
and (I, i'awnecH of the (ireat I'latle, eonie to the
L'|>|'er .Arkansas (onieet tin ImlValoin their annual
miirrations to the north; ami on the trail ol these
animals lollow up the ( 'innanelii's. And thus
in the iiionlhs of June, An(;nst and SeptcmlMT,
I here are in the ueiirhliorlKKid of these traders from
liftei II to tw( nty thous.ind sava(»es ready iiiid pant.
liii(,' for plunder and hlooil. Il they cn(;a[;e in l)al_
llini; out old causes of conti iition aiiioui; them.
si'lvit", the .Messrs. Ilents feel eonip.iratively sain
in their solitiiry fortress. Hut if they spare each
other's properly and lives, there are (rri'al anxieties
at I'ort William ; evi'ry hour of day and iii(,'ht is
preirii.int with (laii(;er. These iintamealile sava.
jjes may drive heyonil naili the liulllilo on wliieli
the (rarrison suhsisls ; may he;;irl the fort with their
Icjjions and cut ott' supplies; may prevent thcni
from Ici'din;; their animals iijion the plains ; may
lirini; u|Mm them slurvatioii and the knawinjj their
own iKsh at the door of death 1 All these are ex.
peetations which as yel the iijnorance alone of the
Imliansof the weakin SHof the I'ost, lirevents Ijom
liecoming realities, lint at what momeiil some,
cliieflain or white desperado may (jive them the re-
ipiisite knowli'dire, an uncertainty around which
are assemhled at I'orl William many v ell (rroundcd
fears for life aiiiUmiperly.

Instances of ffle dariii'^ intrepidity of the Cu.
niamlies thai occnncd just before and after my
arrival here, will scrvi to show the ha/, irds and
dangers of which I have s()okcn. Alsiut iln
middle of June, 18311, a hand of sixty of them uji.
der cover of ni(;lit crossed the river and concealed
tliemsi Ivi samonir the bushes that j;row thickly on
the hank near the place where the animals of the
eslalilisliment Iced dnrini; the day. i\o sentinel
iH'injr on duty al the time, their pres<'ncc was im.
observed ; and when inorniiif; eanie the Mexican
hors(!-i;uard nionnted his horse, and with thenoiso
and shoutings usual with that class of servants
when so em])li)yeil, drove his eliar(;e out of the,
lort ; and ridini; rajiidlv from side to side of th-;
rear of the baud, nijri d them on and sisiii had them
iiil)bliii(j the short dry (;rass in a little vale within
ijrape shot distance of the (;uii8 of the bastions. It
is customary for ii (fuard of animals alnml these
tradiiiK-posts to lake his station beyond bis eh iri;e ;
and it they stray from each other, or attempt to
stroll too far, to drive tlicin toi;ether, and thus keep
tlieiii in the best [lossihle situation to be hurried
hastily to the earal, should the Indians, or other
evil persfins, sw<k>|) down n|)on them. And as
there is constant daiijjer of this, liis horse is held
by a lon(f rope, and (;ra/,es around him, thai he
may be in'i':;!le<l quickly at the first alarm for a re.
treat withi.: ihe walls. The faithful guard at Bent's
on the inorniiijj of the disaster I uin relating, had
dismounted after drivin(( out his animals, and sat
n|K)n the ground watching with the greatest fidelity
for every call of duty ; when these M or Ul) Imlians
sprang from their hiding-places, ran upon the nni-
, mals, yelling hombly, and att,.'mpted to drive them
across the riv(T. 'riio guard, however, nothing
I (luuntod, mounted quickly, and drove liis horse ut

Travels in the Great Wcslern Prairies,

fiill speed nmoiiif them. The niuleR and horsep |
hearing his voice amidst the rrighlniniT yells of the :
savages, immediately Flatted at a lively pnre lor i
the fort ; but the Indians were on p11 sides, and he- '
wildered them. The guard ctill pressed llieni on- '
ward, and called for help; and on they rnslicd,
despite the eft'nrts of the Indians to the contiMry.
The battlements were covered with men. They i
shouted encouragement lo thi^ brave guard — " On. j
ward, onward," and the injunction was oheycd.
He spurred his horse lo his greatest speed lioin
side to side, and whijiped the hinderinost of Ihi'
band with his leading rope, lie bad saved every
animal : he was within :J0 yanls of Ihe open irah' ;
he fell: Ibree arrows from Ihe Ihiws of Ihc Cu-
mancbes had cloven his heart. And relieved of
him, tlie lords of the fpiiver galhered their l)rey-
and drfive Iheni lo Ihe lK)rders of Texas, wilhout
injury to life or limb. I saw Ibis faithful guard's
grave. He had lieen buried a few d.iys. The '
wolves liad been iligsing into it. Thus IK or .'ill 1
nndes "nd horses, and their hesi servant's lili', were
lost lo Ihe Alcssrs. IJenIs in a single daj'. 1 have
heei informed also that those horses and uuiles. ;
which mv eompanv had taken great pleas'iie in re. '
covering for them m the plains, were :iiso stocn ui i
a similar manner soon afler my 'ieparlure li>in
the |)osl ; and that genllemen owners were in
hourly cciioclation of un attack ui)on the fort ,
itself. I

The same liabililv to the loss ei life and jirop. !
eriy attends llic^ trailing e.vpeditions to Ihe en-
campmenls of the Irllies. > 1

An anecdote of Ibis ;.^rvii'e v/as related lo me.
An old trappc" wasseni from Ibis fort lo Ihe laitaw i
eump, wilh a well assorted slock of [foods, and a
Imdy of men to guard tbeni. Afler a tedious ma rib
among llii^ snows and swollen sireanisand dceliv-
ilies of the mountains, be <-ame in siubl oi (!ie vil-
lage. It was situated in a sniiken valley .■uiiong
the hideously' dark clifl's of IIk' Kulaw nioiml.iius. ,
And so small was il, and .so deep, liiat Ihi' over-
banging liigbis not onlv proleclcd il from Ibe '
blasts of approaching wuilcr. but drew lo llieir
frozen embrace Ibe falling snows, and left lliisviil.
ley ils grasses ami llowers, wliili' Ibeir own a'vliil
beads were gliilering wilh perpclual IVosls. 'I'be
lrade,-s encamped upon a sm.ill s, ell of land Ihat
overl(H)ked Ibe smoking wigwaui;-. ami i^cnl a ile-
pulalion to Ihe cbi. ' lo parley for Ihe privilege of
opening a trade will. Ihe tribe. 'I'bey wr'rc re.
ceived wilb great h.iughtiness by lliose mouarelis
of Ibe wilderness, and were askeil •* why lliey had
dared euler the Kutaw moniilains wilhoul Ibeir
pcMinissioTi." licinir answered Ibal Ibcy "bail
traveled from Ihe lorl In Ibal place in order lo ask
their biglmesscs permission lo trade wilh llw
fcelaWH ; ' the principal cbief leplied. thai no |ier.
missioii had been i;ivi ;i to Ihcm lo cuuie Ihcrc nor
to remaii;. Theinlervicw einleil ; and the traders
r.innied to llieir camp wilh no very pleas.iul .in-
lieipations an lo Ibe result of their expedition. —
Their baggage was placed alH)Ul for breastworks ;
their animals drawn in nearer, and lied tirinly to
dtakei' ; and a patrol guard slationcd, as theevin.
ing shut in. I'very |ircparation li)r Ihe attack.
winch apr>eared determined upon on Ihe part of
the Indians, being made, they waited lf)r the tJrst
rav of day--thal sign.il of drcadlnl havoc among
alf the tribes — with tho dctoriiuncd anxiety which

fdls the iHisom, sharpens the sight, nerves Ihc arm,
and opens Ibe ear, lo Ibe slightest rustle of a leaf,
so remarkably, among the grave, self.ptissesscd,
and brave traders of Ihe Great Prairie and .Moun.
tain Wilderness. inuring the first part of tho
night. Ihe Indians hurrying to and fro througl. 'he
village — their war speeches and war danci-s -
and Ihe painting their faces wilh red and Mack, in
.illenuite stripes, and an occasional scout wanly
approaeliiug the camp of the whites imlieatcd nn
appclile for a coufiiet thai appeared lo (ix with
prophetic eert.iinty Ibe fate of Ibe traders. Kighl

I himdrcd Indiant* In fitty whiles, was fearful odds.

: The morning light streamed faintly up Ihc Kasl
at last. The traders held their riHes wilh Ihe grasp
of dying men. Another and anolhcr iH'ani kin-
dled on Ihc dark blue vault, an i (me by one
(]nenclicd Ihe sliirs. The silence i.rii,,. lond. rested
on the world. 'I'hcy brealbed heavily, with teeth
.sti in terrible rcs'ilulinn. The hour — the ■noment
— had arrived. Itchind a pro|eeling ledge the
dusky forms of three or four inmilrcJ Kulaws un.
didated near the irround. like herds of bears intent
on their prey. Tlicy approached the h'dge. and
for an instant lay flat on their faces, iind motion-
less. Two or three of them gently raised their
heads high enough to look over n|K)ii the camp of
Ibe whiles. The dav bad broken over half Ihe
lirmaincnt ; the rilles of the traders were leveled
ii-'iu bcliiud the I'.iggag", and glistened faintly ;
a crack — a wb''.op — a sbi.ul — a rout 1 The scalp
of one of Ihe peepers over the ledge bad been Ixired
by the whistling lead lioiii one of Ihe the rilles —

: Ihechief warrior had fallen. The Indians retreated
to their camp, and the uliites retained their [Hisi-
tion ; each watcbiuir Uu' other's movemculs. The
position of the traders was such as to eommaud
the country within long rille-shot on all sides. —

•■ The Indians, tbereliirc, deeliucd an attack. The
iiuuiIk-is of their foes, and perhaps some pruden-
tial consideration as to liavini< an advantagcon.i
location, prevenlcil the traders from making an
assault. Well would it have been lor Ihcm had
Ihcy conlinned to be careful. AUint !• o'clock, the
warlike appearances gave place lo signs of peace.
Thirty or liirly unarmed Indians, dcnuiied of
clothing and of paint, came towards the caiiip of
the traders singing, and dancing, and bearing the
Sacred Calumci, or (■real I'iiic of reaee. A chief
bore it who bad a-ted as lieutenant lollic warrior
that bad been shot. Ils red marble IkiwI, ils stem
broad and long, and carved into bierologlyphicH
of various colors and sigiiilieclions, and adorned
wilh Icalbers of licaiitiliil birds, wi soon recog-
ni/.cil by the traders, and seemed Ihe bearer and
his allendauts a n-ccption iiilo Ibeir camp. Itolli
parties seated lliemsclves in a great circle; the
pipi' was lilleil with lohaceo and herbs from Ibe
venerated mediciiie bag; the well-kiiiilled coal
was rcvcrcnlly placed uism Ihe bowl ; its sacred
stem was then liirned towards Ihe bcavcnsto invite
Ihe (ill it .Sic'il lo ihc solemn asscinbly, and to
implore bis aid ; it was ilicn tiuned towards the
earth, to ivert the intlucnce of malicious demons ;
it wasllun Ikpiiic in a borizonlal position, till it
completed a circle, lo call to their help in the great

: smok", the bcnehcenl, invisible agents which live
on the earth, in the waters, and the iijiper air : the
chief look two whitlii, and blew the smoke first fo.

i, wards licuvcn, und then roiuid U|wii ilic groiuid :

in the RocJ:>i Mountains, tlie Oregon Territory, etc..

and so did othrrii, until nil had inliaird the smoke l|
— llic Imiilh ol Indian tidrlity — and blown it to tlir
earth and heaven loadcil wllh the pionsvows, that
art- supposed to niiiijile with it while il eurlnanion;r
tlielnni;» near the heart. 'I"he (Inef then rose and
said, ill the Spanish laiiifiiaire, whieli Ihe I'aitaws
east of the inoniilaiiis speak well, " Ihat he was
anxious that peaei^ niiijlit he restored iietween the
parlies ; that hiniseJCand people were desirous that
the Iriders shoidd rriuaiii with them: and that it
presents were made to him to the small ainoimt ol
>!!70ll. no ohjeelion wonlrl remain to Ihe proposid
proeee(lini;s ul' the whit's; hill on no aeeoniil
eonid Ihev enter the lOnlaw eoinilrv willioni pay- 1,
iiiir Irihiile in some I'orni. 'I'hi'V '■' ere in the I'ailaw !'
connlrv — the Irihiile was due— (liev had killed ii
Kntaw eliiel'. anil the IiIihiiI ol'a eliiet was line ; hut
that the taller eoiihl he eoinpnimised liy a piompi
I'onipliaiiee wllh his proposilion in regard In the j
presents." Till ehiel liader was e.vplieil in his I
reply. "That hi had eoiiir inlo Ihe eoimtiy to
sell griHiils, not ti){j;ive Iheiii awav \ thai no trilinte
eoidd he paid to him or to inv oilier lailaw ; and
llial if liifhlinij were a desideralimi willi Ihe ehiel
and his people, he would do his pari lo make il
siillieienlly lively to h" iiileresliii!^.'' 'I'he eoimeil
liroke lip Inmiiltiioiisl y. The Indians carried Uiek
Ihe wnmpiim hells to their eaiiip —held war eoiin-
eds — and whippid and ilaiiecd aroimd posts
piinted red, and reeoiml> d Ihiir deeds of valor —
iiid showed hi irh in air, as thev hapeil in the'
.'ren/.y of niimie warfare, the store of sealps Ihal
Itarmshed the doors of the family lod'fes. And
aroinid their eamp-lires, the liillowin;; niirlit, wen
seen leatnres dislorted with the most {.dia'liy
wrath. Indeed, the savages appealed resoK d to
destroy the whites. And as they we .e alile liy
their sii|H'rior mmihers to do so, i' wasiiei'ined ad-
visalile to );et heyond their reach willi all piaeli-
riihle liasti'. At inidniirhl, Iherefore, when the
iires had smoiihlered low, Ihe trailer.-: saddled in
silent iuisle — iMiiind their hales upon Iheir pack-
mules — and departed while the wolves were howl-
inif the hour , and sneeeded by the dawn of day
'H reaehiiii; a ijiirirc wlie ,• they had suspeeled Ihe
Indians — if they had discovered their departure in
Beas.)ii lo reach il— would oppose their retreat. —
On reeonnoiteriiii.', however, il was Ii I clear;
and with joy did lliey eiiler the delile, and luliold
from its eastern opcMiiny^, the wide cold plains, and
the sun risiiiir, red and cheerful, on the dislani
outline of the moriiiii(r sky. V few days alter. Ihey
leaehed Ihe poal — not a lillle sjlad that their llesh
was not rotting with many wii.j had hecii less siie-
e.essfnl than themselves, iii esrapinji death at the
hands of Ihe I'taws. Thus rniis Ihe tfile. liut
lor the insults, i'ohl)eri,'S, and murders, committed
liy this and oilier liihes, the tradeiv Henls have
soiisrht opporl unities lo lake well-measured veil-
(fcaiiee ; and liherally and hravely have Ihey oflen

dealt il out. Itiil lli nseipicnce seems lo have

hieii the exeitinir of Ihe hilli rest eiimily lulween
Ihe parlies: which resiihs in a Irille more ineon-
venienee lo the Inn'. is than to Ihe Indians. For
Ihe latter, to jrratily their propensity to theft, and
their hatred to the liiriner, make an iiniiual levy
u|Kin the eavy-yard of the fortress, which, as il con-
tains iiBiially from r-*!! lo UK) horses, mules, &c.,
furnishes to the men of the loniahawk a very eom-
Ibrtublu and tmliatuctory retribution tor tUc iiihibi- ^

lion of the owners of Ihein upon their iinmenmrial
rlylil to roll and muriler, in niamier and form um
as preserihed hy the customs of their race.

'i'he business within Ihe walls of the post, is
done by elerks and traders. The former of theoc
are more commonly yoiin;; );eiilleuien from the
cities of "heSl.iles: their duly islo keep the Iniokn
of the eslahlishmenl. The iradeis are [fenerally
seleeled from anionir those ilarinit individuals who
have traversed Ihe I'lairie and ^louiilain Wilder-
ness willi sroods or trap-, and understand the best
mode ol dialini; wilh lie Indians. Their duty is
lo wi i;rh siijT.ir, coHie, powder, iS;e., in a ('omiie,.
licnl pml-ciip; and me.isiiiv red bai/e, beads,
ite., and speak the several Indiini I iinjil iifes that
have a name for beaver skins, bnlValo robes, and
money. They are line fellinvs as can any where
be found.

Kort William is owned hv Ihreehrolhers. by ihe
name of HenI, from Si. l/iiiis. Two of iheiii
were at the post when we arrived. They seemeil
lo he llioroin;lily iniliated inlo Indian life ; dressed
like eliiefs— ill moecasins IhoroiiLdily fjaruishiil
with heads and poieiipiiie ipiills ; in Irowsers of
deer skin, wilh lonir IVinuos 'if the same exteiidiu){
aloiiu the outer se.iiii from the ancle .o the hip;
in the splendid liiiiilni!i-shirl of Ihe seme iiiato-
rial, wilh sleeves IVini;ed on the elUiW se.ini from
the wrisi lo the shoulder, and ornainenled with
lliriires of [Kirciipih.' ipiills of various colors, and
lealhern fringe around the lower edL;eof lluliody.
.Vnd ehiels Ihey were in Ihe autlmnly exercised
in Iheir wild and lonely fortress.

A Iradinir esliiblishmenl lo be known iiiiisl \v.
seen. A solitary alnide of men. Me'ckiiiir Wi'altli in
the teeth of dan'^crand hardship, reariiii; ils lowers
over the imcullivated wastes of nature, likeanold
baronial easlle Ihat has willislood the wars and des.
olalions of eentaries; Indian woiiien Irippiiiff
around its hutllciiients in their filitteriii!; moeeasiiiH
and loiiir deer skin wrappers; Iheir children, with
most perfect forms, and the canialion of the Sa.iioii
cheek strujrulinir tliroui;li the shadiiii; of the In-
dian, and 'hatteriii!; now liidii'ii, and now Spanish
or Knijlish ; the urave owners and their elerks and
traders, seated in the shade of the piazza smokiiiii,'
the liiiiifnalivc pipe, )iassiiiii it from one to another,
drauinii ihe precious smoke inlo the limits hy short
hyslerieal sucks till tilled, and then ejeetinir it
throoirh Ihe no-ilrils ; or it may ije, seated around
their rude table, spread with cotl'ee or tea, jerked
hutlalo me.it, and bre.td made of iinliolled wheateil
meal from Taos; or, after eatinir, laid eomfoiiahly
upon their palhls of straw and .Spanish blankets,
and dreamliii; lo the sweet Holes ofatlntr; the
■ (I trappers withered with <'X|H)sure to the leudiiif;
elements, the half-tallied Indian, and hall civilized
.Mexican servants, sealed on the (rroiind around a
larirc tin pan of drv meat, and a lankard of water,
their only rations, rclalini; ailvenliires aliont the
shores of llndsiin's Hay, on the rivers ("olumbia
and .MacUenzii', in the (Jreal I'lairie Wilderness,
and eii' iir Ihe snowy liijjhl- of the mountains;
and di I • riiifT sa(ie opinions alKiiil the destination
of eerlam hands of hulValo ; of Ihe distance lo the
Ulaekliiot connlrv. and whether my wounded inaii
was burl as badly as Bill tin mule was, when the
'• meal parly" was tired iiiKin by the I'limaiiehes;
pri sent a tolerable idea of every tliinir within its
wallH, And it' wv I'dd, tlie opnin^ of tliu gutc«

Travels in (he Great Western Prairies,

iif n winter's iiuiiiiiMi; — tlifriuilioiis slldlnjr in and
out of tlir Iniliiiiis wliosc tents slanil iiround tlie
i'ort, till the whole area is tilled six leet deep willi
their \mvi liiiiiTin'^ hiaek loeks. and dark watelil'iil
rtushinn; eyes ; and traders aiul elerUs hiisv at their
work; and the patrols walking the haltli'nienls ^
with loaded muskets; and the (juirds in the
bastions standinir with hurninjj niitelics hv the
earrouades; and when the sun sets, the Indians
retirin'^f ajrain to tlieir eanip outside, to talk ov<'r
their newly pun-h ist'd hlankels and heads, and to
sinij anil drink and d.niee ; and the niijlit sentinel
on the I'ort that treads his wearv w iteli awav; we
shall present a tiilettd)le vii'w ol' this post ii. the
season of hnsiness.

It was e:isy suunner liiue with ni\n and beast i!
when 1 WIS there. The line davs spi lit in the en-
jovment of its hospitalities were ot [jreat servl<'e
to ourselves, and in reeruitiu';' our jaded iiiiinv i
'1 tie man, too, who had been wounded on 1.
Santa V^ trade, reeovered asiolli^■hinl;l3•.

'I'ho nuiliiH'crs, on tbi' lldi ol' .liilv, started Tor;!
Henfs Fori, on the I'latle ; and invseH'. with tliree '
sound and LTood men. and one wounded and bad',
((111 , strode our auinials and look lr.i',1 i jr.iin for;
t!ie mountains and (Jri'jrciu 'l'(Tritor\ . I'' ve miles
aliove Korl William we e ihie to Koi't V,. I'm-lil i.
It is eonstriieted ot adobiis. and eonsisis ol'a si ries
of one-slors' hiiiifrs built around a (|u:idr:uiLrle, in
the ffcneral style of thf.s'' at Fort Williani. It
lielon^fs to ii company ol' Viiwriean and Mixieaii
trappers, who. wearied with the serviia', have re.
tired to this spot to spend the remainder ol their
<lays in raisin;; ;rrain, ve;ret ibles. horses, imdes,
&,c. for the various trailiie; eslahlisliinents in
llii'se rei;ions. And as the .Arkansas, some lour
miles aliove tli" post, ean be turned from its
course over larj^e Iraets ol' rieb land, these indi.
vidiials miijiil realize Ih' hi|ipiesl results from
their industry ; — for, as it is impossible, from the
looseness of the soil and the seareity of rain, to
raise any thin;' tbereahoul v.illioiit irrijfalion ;
and, as this is the only spot, for a loiiLr dislaiiee
lip and down the Arkansas, wlii're any eonsider-
ahlo tracts oi' land ean be wati r, lliey I'ouldsupidy
the in-ii-K^t with these artiides without any fear of
ron 'c'ition.

Liu these, like the resiiltsof m my li'inest intcn- i
tions. are wholly crippled hy ;i p iiieily of money and ,
a Kuper.dmndance of whisky. The |)roprietor.> are
poor, and when thekei;- isoti tap. die im away their
e.vistence under its dani;eious tascinations. Hence
it is that thesi' men. destitute of the meaiin to carry
on! their ib'si[rns in regard to larmiiiiT, have found
ihemselves not wholly uni'iiiploved in reeliu'j;, roll-
inn; and voiiiiliiei- ; a substitute wliieh many indi-
dividuals of undrliiable taste have before been
known to jin I'er. 'I'liey h ive, lioweyer, a small
stock, oonsistinir of horses and mules, cattle,
sheep and jroats; and still maintain tluir oriijinal
intention of irriiratin;; and ciillivatinf; the land in
the vicinity of their eslahlisliincnt.

\Ve arrived here about I o'clock in the after,
noon ; and, being desirous of purchasing a imrse
;'or one of the men, and uiaking ■.«,\;.f iartlicr ur.
rangements for \i.\ Jou; i 'y- i eon. 'vili-d to Blop
for the night. At tliie place I found .. .< nber of
independent trappers, nl.o, aftel lie pii..;r-hunt.
had come down from the mountains, taken rooms
free of reut, etorcd their fur, and opened a trade for ;,

whisky. One skin, valued at !$ t, buys in that
market one pint of whisky ; no more, no less ;
unless, indeed, some theorists, in tlir vanity of
their dogmas, may consider it less, when plenl.-
i'lilly molliliial with water — a process that in-
creases ill value, as the lancet falters in the en-
ei"gy of its action. For the seller knows that if
the pare liipiid should ,so mollify the whisky as to
delay the lio|)es of merriment too long, another
heaver-skin will be taken Irom the jolly trap|)er"s
pack, and another <piaiitity of the joytiil mixlu.'e
obtained. And thus matters will proceed until
the stores of furs, the hardships of the hunt, the
toils and exposures of trapping, the icy streams
of the wilderness, the bloody light, foot to fiHit,
with the knife and tomahawk, and the long days
and .ightsof fhirsl and starvation, ar" satisfac.
t( '■. cii'iia led in the dreamy felicity tli.il whisky,
n, : brandy and ijiccacuinlia, if pro|)erly ad-

.: d, are iiccuslomei' to produce.

Uneol these trappers was from -Vcw-Ilaiipshire:
he Iiad b; en eduealed at l)iUtnioii!li ('iil!eg(>, and
was, 'dlogether. on<' of the most .■em.i"'-.able men I
eye^ knew. A splendid gentliiiian. a liiiisheil schol-
ar, a critic or F.uglishand Hoiiian lileratiire, a po.
lilic. 'ii. .a irapper. an Indian 1 Mis s!atiir>' was
something more than six feet ; his shoulders and
eliesl were hiviad, and his arms and lower liiiihs
well formed and veiy imiscniar- His l(;reliead
was high and expansive; Causality, Comparison.
I'Jventuality. and all thi^ perceplive organs, to iise
a ])!irenological description, remarkably large ;
Locality was, however, larger than any other
organ in the I'miital region ; llenevobnee. Won-
der, Ideality, l^eereliyeness, Destriietiveness and
.Adhesiveness, Combat iveness, .Self-Fsteem and
Hope were very high. Tbc^ remaining org.ins
were low. Ills head ivas clotheil with hair as
black as jet, "il feu in k'ng'b, smoothly combed
li.) back. He w.is dressed
iii-ings and moccasins; not
I; - person. On my first in-
aldivssed me with the still',
■ C' scions of liis own iiii-
I a iiier that he thought
1 the movement of every
muscle of my face am. , . y word that I nitereil.
-Vnd when any thing was siid of political events
.1 ''• ' States or l')nro|)e, he gave silent and intense
att 't..'!i I left him without any very g.tod im-
p. e f his cir.ir.icler ; iiir I i' rd imhici'd him
to open ..IS compressed momh ImiI oiiei', and then
to make the no very agreeable inipiiries — ■' When
do you st.art ? " and ■• What ■•' .ile do you take .' ''
\{ my second interview, he was inure familiar.
Having ascertained tint hi' was proud of his
li~ari>ing, I approaela d liiiii through that me-
dium, ii "penied pleased at this compliment to
his supen.i!;l,y over thise around him, and at
once bee'er., 'Msy anil talkative. His " .Mina
.M.ter" ,,■ !■ -.ei-, 'cd and redcscrihed ; all the
fields and w.ilks anil rivulets, the beautitui Con-
nccticiit, the evergreen primitive ridges lying
along its banks, which, ia' said, '• had smiled for
a thousand ages on the inarch of decay"; were
successive themes of his gigantic imagination.
Ills descriptions wv]^' minute and exipiisite. lie
s.tw in every thing all that Si'ience sees, together
with all that his capaeiouH Intellect, instrncted
and imbued with the wild funcyiiigs and legends

1 b.angii'g (le
in a dcer-SKin ' i. ;•. .
a shred of e' ,. ■•:
teryiew wi'l; . .
cohl lorma; ,.,
portance ; a. ., le
unobserved, scrulio.

in the Rocky Mountains, the Oregon Territory, etc.

f)f liis rare, could wo. I inquired tlui rrasoii of
his Icaviiii; ("ivili/od lift; for ii |inc;irious livcliliood
in llir wildorncss. " For reasons I'ound in (lie nii-
ture of my nine," lie replied. " The Indicin's eye
euniiot be siilisfied willi it description of thinirs,
how Ix'uutifiil soever iiiiiy he the style, or the har-
monies of verse in wliieli it is eoiive^-ed. For
neither the p'Tiods of burniii); eloipienee. nor the
niifflily find beautiful ereiilioiis of the iinaf.-ini-
tion, ean lUlliosoin llie treasures and reulilies as
tlieyhvo in their own native niaffiiilie.inee on the
eternal nioiintaiiis. and in the secret, untrodden
vale.

As so<jn as you tliriist the plouirhsli ire uiiiler
tlie earth, it teems with woiiiis and useless
weeds. It increases popiilalioii to an unnatural
extent — creates ilu' necessity of |«'iial enact-
ments— builds the jail erects the gallows

spreads over the hiiniaii face a masli of dcreplion
and selfislmess — and substitiiles villaiiy, love of
wealth, a!id power, and ttie slaughter ol millions
for the ffratitication of some royal cnt-throat, in
the place of the siu;,de. minded honesty, the liospi-
talit}-. the honor and the purit)-orili<> natural state.
Hence, wherever .Vjfricullure appears, tlu' iiiercaso
of moral and physical wretehe(lii(>ss induces the
tlioiisaiids of necessities, as tir v are termed, (or
al)ri(bj;ing liumaii liberty; lor fettering down the
mind to the principles o( ri',dit. dciived. not IVoni
nature, but froiu a restrained and 1' iced condition
o'' existence. .\uil hence my ra- e. with mental
and physical Inhits as free as ibe waters lliat
(low from the hills, become nstitV under the
rules of eivili/.cd life ; dwindle to tluir graves
under the control of laws, and eustoins, and
forms, which have grown out of the endless
vices, and the fictitious virtues of anotlicr race,
lied men olten acipiire and love the .'^cii uces.
Hut with the nature which the (Jreat Spirit has
given them, what are all their tnitlis to llicni '
Would an Indian ever measure the liiglit of a
mounlaiii that he could (!ii:'ib ' No. never. The
legends of his irilic tell him nothing aliont <pi id-
rants, and h;iso lines unil angles. Their old braves,
however, have f/rages watched j'lnni the eliHs the
greiMl lile in tlie spring, and the yellow death in
the autumr., of tlicv holy forests. Why should he
ever calculate an eclipse ,' lie always Uncw such
occurrence.'; to lie the doings ol the (Jrcat .Spirit.
Science, it is true, ean tell the times and sc:isons
of their coming; but the Indian, win n they do
occur, looks through .Vature, without the aii! of
Science, up to itsCausc. Of what use is a Famar
tr him .' Ills swift canoe bai. the green emliow-
ered shores, and wi ll-knowii headlands, to guide
its course. In line, what arc the arts of IVacc,
»if War, of Agriculture, or any thing civili/ed, to
him ! His nature and its elements, like tlii' pine
which hIkkIows its wigwam, are too mighty, too
(jraiid, of too strong a fibre, to lorm a stock on
wliieli to engrail the rose or the violet of |Kilisheil
life. No. I must r.inge the hills ; I must always
Im- able to oiil-travel my horse ; I must iilwa3-s he
able to strip my own wardrobe t'roin the backs of
the deer and buiralo ; and to feed upon their rich
loins ; I must alwiiys be able to punish my enemy
with my own hand, or I am no longer an Indian.
And if I ,un nny thing else, I am a mere imitation,
nn a;.!'." The enthusiasm with which these sen-
timci)tB were uttered, iinprtBHcd lue with an awe 1

Imd never previously felt for tiie imliorrowed dig-
nity and indepeiKlcnee of the genuine, original
charaeter of the .American Indians. Knlcclilcd,
and reduced to a slate of dcpi ndeiic" by dise.ise
and the crovdiiig hosts of ci llizcd n."i, we liiid
among tlicin still, too much of their nvn, to adopt
the cliaraet"r of another race ; too much bravery
to feel like a eoiirpiered |>eoplc ; and a preference
of aiiuihilalion to the abandonment of that course
of life consecrated by a thousand generations of
venerated .inci stors.

'I'liis Indian Ins been trapping among the
Kocliy Mouulaiiis for seventeen years. During
that time, he has been often employed as an e.v
lircss to carry news (rom one trading-|K)sl to ano-
tlicr, and from tin' mountains to Missouri. In
these journeys he has been remarkable for the di-
rectness ol his courses, and the cxccediHgly short
spaces of time leipiired to accomplish them. —
Mountains that neither Indian nor white man
ilared attempt to scale, if opposing bis rightdine
trick, be has crossed. .\i!,'rv streams, heavy
and cold from the snows, and plimgiiig and roar-
ing among the girding caverns of the hills, he
has swim ; he has met the tempest as it groaned
over ..ic ]ilains. .md hung upon the Irembrmg
towers of the everlasting hills ; and without a
horse, or even a dog, traversed olten the terrible
aiiil boiindliss wastes of nioinitaius, and plains ;
and desert v.dlevs. through whiidi I Mil tr.iveiiiig :
and the ruder the blast, the larger the bolts, and
the loudi'r the pcils of the dreadlul tempest, wli.n
tb.''.,irtli and the sky s( em joined by a moving
"■.it.uact of tlood and tlame driven by the wind,
the more was it like himself a trie, unuiarred
manil'estatiou of the sublime energies of .Nature.
He says that he never intinds again to visit the
.Stales, or any other part of the rartli •' which has
been torn and spoiled hy the si ivcs of agricnl-
ture." " I shall live." says he, " and die in the
wilderi'ess." .\nd assuredly he slionid thus live
and die. The music of the nisliing waters tboiild
be his reipiiem, and the (Ireal Wilderness bis
tomb.

Another of these peculi.ir men was .m Iroipmis
from Canada ; a stout, old man, with a flat no.fc,
broad face, small twinkling black eyes, a sw.ir-
tliy, dirty eninplexion. a mouth that laughed from
car to ear. and always rcl iliiig soiik' wonil'rliil
tale of a (rapper's life. He was paiticnlarly loud
of describing his escapes (rom (Iw Sioux, and
Itlaekfeel. while in the scrvici' of (lie Hudson's
Hay <'oni|iauy. On one eccasiiai he had Bejia-
rated from his fellow-tr.iiipi .s and traveled lar up
, the .Missouri into a |)articularly beautiful valley.
It was the verv spot he had sought in all his wan-
diriiigs, for a retreat lor liim.-ielf and his sipiaw to
' live in till they sliould die. It appeared I.) him
like the gatcwiiy to the Isles of the IMest. The
lower mountaiiis were covered with (all pines ;
: and alMive and aroimil, e\.-,pt in the east, where
the morning sun sent in bis rays, the bright glit-
tering ridges rose high against tin sky, deidtcd in
the garniture of perpetual frosts. .Mougthe valley
\ lay a clear, pure lake, ill the centre of which
' plaveil a number of tduntains, that threw their
' waiers many feet aliove its surliice. and sending
t tiny waves rip])liiig away to the pebbly shores,
I miide the monntaiiiK and groves that were rctleet-
|i cd from its rich bosom eecm to leap uiid clap

Travels in the Great Wester a Pnuries,

their liamis for joy, at the sacred quiet that reigned
aiiionjj thciii.

The old liuhan pitched his skin tent on Iho
shore, in a little copse of hcinloek, and sit his
traps. Havinir done this, he cxplort^d carefully
every part of the nfi}rhl><)rinir mountains ior in.
};ress and ejjress, " sii^ns," &e. His oliject in
this was toaseerliiiu if the valley were Imiuenled
hy Innnan heinpfs ; and if there were places of es.
cape, if it should h(^ enlen-d hy hostile persons
tliroui;h the pass that led hiiusilf to il. lie lound
no other pass, e.\e( j>t one lor the waters of the
lake throuirh a dn p eliasin of the niotnilain ; and
this was sueli thai no one eould diseend il alive lo
the lower valleys. l''or as he waded anil swam hy ;
turns ilinvn its still waters, he soon louinl hiinseif
drawn hy an inereasinr; eurnnl, wliieh sulliiicnt-
ly indicated lo him thr cause of the deep roar
that resounded I'rom the caverns lieyond. lie ae-
cordini^'ly made the shore, ami elind>ed alonij
anionjf the projeetiiiir rocks till he overlooked an !
uhyss of fallen rocks, into which Ihe stre.im poured
and foamed and was losi in Ihe mist. He re.
turned to his eamji satisliid. He had lound an
undiscovered valley, stored with he;iviraml troul.
and grasses lor his horses, where he could trap
and tlsh and dream awhde in safely. And every ■
morning, lor three deliirliilid weiks, did he draw I
the ijeaver from the deep pools mto which they |
had pluiiired when the ipiick trap liad seized ;
them ; anil strinniici, them two and two tosjcllicr i
over his pack-horse, Ixae them to his camp ; and

Huch Btuir, lie said he had l>eeii ao lonaf away from
j civilization that he could never ajjain enjoy it.
' As Ion;; as he could jret friHid huftalo cows to oat,
the tine water of the snowy hills to drink, and
(rood huckskins to wear, he was satisfied. 'I'hc
mountaineers were free ; he could go and come
when he chose, with oidy his own will for l.iw.
!My inlercoursc with him. however, led mc after-
wards lo assign another cansi' for his ahandon-
mini of home. There were times when we were
encamped at niirht on the cold mountains alK)ut
a hlazinir fire, that he related anecdotes of his
younirer days with an inlensily of iVcliufr which
discovered that a deep fountain of emolioii was
still 0))en in his lx)si)m, never to he sealed till he
shuidiers under the sands of the desert.

We pas-si'd the nijrht of the 1 1 III of .(uly at tlie
I'uilila One of my companions who had, jjre.
viously to the division of my company, used
horses helonfjim^r to an individual who left ns for
Santa Fc, and tlu' excellent .Mr. Blair, were
without ridiiii; animals. It hecanie, therefore, an
'■(lit for them lo purehasi.' here; and Ihe more
. IS there would he no other opportunity to do
so for some hundreds of miles. Hut tliesi^ indi-
viduals had no money nor froi)ds that the owners
of tlic liorsi'S would receive hi c.\cliaii)ri'. They
wanted clothing or cash. And as 1 had a sur-
plus quantity of linen, I hc};an to harjfain for one
of Ihe animals. The first price charijed was enor-
mous. A little lianlerinjr, liowevcr, brought the
o\vnir lo his proper senses; and the articles of

with his lonn side-kiiife stripped otF the skins of |i payment were overhauled. In doing this, my

fur, pinned them lo the ground lo dry, and in his
camp kettle cooked the much prized tails for his
midday repast. " Was it not aline limit that V
asked he, '• heaver as Ihiek as nmsipiitoes, trout
us plenty as water." '• Hut the ungnilly Ulack-
feetl" The sun liad thrown a lew hrlght rays
n|X)n Ihe rim of the eastern lirmamenl, wlien the
Hlackfeet war-whoop rang iiround his teni — a
direful '• whoop-ah hooh." ending willi a yell,
piercing harsh and shrill, through the clenched
teeth. He h id tml one means of escape — the
lake. Into it lie plunged heneatli a shower of
poisoned arrows — plunged deeply- -and swiim un-
der while he could endure the ahsenee of air ; he
rose ; !ie was in the midst of his foes swimming
and shouting around him ; down again ; up to
breathe ; and on he swam with king and power-
ful sweeps. Tne pursuit was long ; hut at last
our man entered the chasm he had explored,
plunged along Ihe cascade as near as he dared,
clung lo a shrub that grew from the crevice of the
rock, and lay under water for the apjiroach of his
pursuers. (Jn they came, they p;iisid, they shrieked
and plunged for ever into the abyss of mist

whole wardrobe was ex|M)scd, and the vender of
horses breame extremelj' enamored of my dress
coal, the only one remaining not out at theclliows.
This he dell rniined to have. I assured liini il
was impo.ssible for me to part with it ; the only
one I |K)ssesscd. Hut he with quite as much cool-
ness, assured me that it would then lie impossible
for him to part with his horse. These two impos-
sibilitics having met, all prospects of a trade wcrt'
sus|)ended, tilt one or the other of them should
yield. After a little, the idea of walking cast
such evident dissatisfaction over the countenances
of my friends, that the coat was yielded, and then
the pants and overoat, and all my shirts savo
four, and various other articles to Ihe value of
three such animals in the .States. The horse was
then transferred to our keeping. .\nd such a
liorse 1 The biography of her mischief, would it
not fill a volume ' And tiiat of the vexations
arising therefrom to us poor mortals — would it not
fill two volumes of '• Pencilings hy thi' Way,'
who.-ic oidy deficiency would lie the want of a love
incident ' Another horse was still necessary ;

but in this, as the other case, a coat was a ' sine

these! veteran trappers i qua nun.' And theri; being no other article of

a blaeksmilh by trade,: the kind to dis|K>s<M>f among us, no bargain could

He left his native .State about |; be made. The night euine on amidst these our

ittle jireparations. The owners of the horses
mil mules iMlonging to El i'uebla, drove their
inimals into the court or quadrangle, around
whieh their houses were built. We gathered our
goods and chattels into a pile, in u corner of the

Another individual
was my guide, Kelly
from Kentucky

twelve years ago, and enlircd the si'rviee of thi
America Fur Company. Since that time, he has
been in the .Stales hut once, and that for a few
weeks only. In bis opinion, every thing was an
dull and tiresome that lie was compelled lo flee

to the mountains again. The food, too, had well I most comfortable rtMun we could obtain, and so
nigh killed him ; "The villainous pies and cake, ' arranged our blankets and bodies, that it would be
bacon and beef, and Ihe nicknaeks that one is i diirieult for any one to make depredations U|>on
obliged to eal among cousins, would destroy the j them during the night, without awaking us. And
constitution o( ua ostricli,'' And if ho <;oulil eat ij after cgnvvrniiig witlj my DwttnoutU friend con-

mil away from

main enjoy it.

'o cowH (o oat,

Id drink, and

iiliHiicd. Tlio

i;o un<l ooiui!

will for law.

, lid nir iiftcr-

r Ills ali;indon-

wliin \vr wcri!

jiiiilaiiis alMxit

ii'f.dotts ol IiIh

liclinf; wliicli

I rniotion was

scaled till lie

sert.

of .Fnly at the
wlio hud, |)r«.
onipany, uwd
«lio li'lt us for
r. lilair, were
llirn fori', un
; and I lie nioro
jortnnity to do
{ut these iiidi-
liat (he owners
;han(;e. Thoy
as 1 had a siir-
)ar|faiu for one
irged was enor-
ir, broiijrlit the
the articles of
loin}; this, my
■ e vender of
Id of my drcHH
It at the cll)owH.
ap.sured liini it
til it ; the only
■ us niiicli cool-
n he iinpossihle
use two ini|K)S-
of a trade wore
f them should
f wulkiii}( cast
le I'ountenances
elded, and then
iiy shins suvo

the value of
'l"he horse wus

And such a
scliief, would it
F the vexations
< — would it not
liy the Way,'
want of a love
itill necessary ;
>ut was a ' sine
itlicr article of

1 haifruin could
nidsl these our

of the horses
)la, drove their
•an(;lc, around
c gathered our
. corner of the
obtain, and so
hat it would be
redations ujHjn
akinj; us. And
uth irieud con-

in the Rocky Mounl'.aiiis, the Oregon Territory, etc

ci-rnin'j the niountainnus roiuitry through which
we were to travel, and the incidents of frustinf;
and biiltle lliut hafl befallen him durinij his trap.
liiniT cveursions, we rclircd lo our couches..

At 8 o'clock on Ihc l;!lh, we were hnrnessed
and on route ugain lor the mountains. I'l was a
tine mellow morning. The snowy peak s of the
W'alfano mountains, 170 miles lo the southwest,
rose hiixh un<l clear in view. The almo-^pliere
was bland like that ol the Indian simimcr in .V( w
Krigland. Five miles travel brou'^bt us lo the
cue inipinent of Kelly's servant, wiio had Ihcm
Hcnl abroad tin: night berore lo (ind gran.< for his
horses. Here atiolber horse was purchased of .t
Wexiean, who had followed us from I'liebla. Ibit
on adjiisling our bagg.igi', it appeared thai Ihri e
animals witc reqiiiied lor Iransporling it over the
broken connlrv which lay Inloie us. Messrs.
Hlair and Wood would, lliercriire, still have but a
single saddle-hoise lor their joint use. This wasi! general dearth
fell lo be a great misrortiine, lH)tli on account of |j a gravish blue.

I art. Embattlcmcnts raised by the ccmniotions of
j warring clcmeiiis — by Ihc storms (hut have galli-
I cred anil marshalled Ihcir armies on tin; higlits in
I view, and poured iheir desolating power over
, these devoted plains 1

I The Arkansas smce we loft Foit William had
I preserved a medium width of a rpiarlcr of a mile,
; the water still turbid ; its general i-oursc cast south-
east ; sf)il on cither sill; as far as the rye could
reach, light sand, and clayey loam, almost dcati-
Illtc of vegelalion.

On the l.')lh Iraveleil aUiut 18 miles overa s/iil

! so light Ibat our animals sunk over Iheir lellocks

I at every slep. During Ihc Ibrenoon we kept along

j the lH)llom lands of llie river. An oecasioual

willow or col Ion-wood tree, ragged and gn:y with

j age, lira willow bush trembling, it almost si'cmcd,

I at ihc tale of desolation thai the winds told in

I passing, were the only relieving features of Ihc

The usual color of Ihc soil was

At \'i o'clock we slopped on a

the hardships of .such a journey on Iih)I, as well ii plat of low ground which the waters of Ihc river
au the delay it would necessarily cause hi the Ij moistened by filtration Ihrougli the sand, and
proseculion of it. Hut these men felt no such L baited our horses. Here were forty or fifty de-
obstacle lo be insurmoimtable, and declared that \' crepidold willows, so [Kjor and shriveled thai one
while the plain and the mountains were before |l felt, after en|oyiiig their shade in the heal of that
them, and they could walk, I hey would conquer il siillrv day, like bestowing alms upon them. At
every dilViculty that lay between them and j 1 "2 o'clock we mounled and struck out across Ibn
( )regon. ,\ftcr we h;id eaten, Kelly's horses were '; plain to avoid a sontliward bend in the river of 30
rigged, and we moved on four or five miles up the " miles in length. Near the centre of Ibis Ix'nd is
liver, where we halted for ihe niglil. Our pro. jthe monlli of the river FontcquelKinir, which Ihc
visions consisted of a small quantity of wheat jl trappers who have traversed it for beaver say rises

meal, a little salt and jicppcr, and a few pounds i
of sugar and cofl'cc. I''i)r meat we di'pended on |
our rifles. Hut as no game appeared during the '
day, we spent Ihe evening in atlempting to take '
cat-fish from the Arkansas, line weighing a
])Oun(l, after niiicb practical angling, was caught — 1
a small consolation surely to the keen uppclilesof
seven men. Hut lliis, and porridge made of wlicit

in .iaincs's Peak 80 miles to the northwest by north.
V>'p. came ui)on Ihe banks of this stream at sun.
set. Kelly had informed nstluit we might e.vpcct
lo find deer in the groves which border its bankp.
.\nd. like a true hunter, as soon as we hailed at
the place of encampment, he sought them before
they should lie.ar or scent us. He traver.sed the
groves, however, in ain. The beautiful inno.

meal and water, constiiiited our snpiK'r that night, cents had, as it afterwards appeared, been lately

hunted by a parly of Delaware trappers; and in
consideration of the ill usage received from these
gentlemen in red. had forsaken their old retreat
for a less desirable but .safer one among the distant
hills in the north. .So that our e.xpectutiong of
iranic and meat subsided in a snjiper of ' tole' —
plain water porridge. .\s our appetites were keen,
it relished well with all. except the Mexican ser-
vant, who declared upon his veracity that ' tolc
was no biieno.' Our guiiie was. if possible, as
happy a' our evening fire as .some one else was
whcii he • shouldered his crutch and told how
batllcs were won ;" and very much for the same,
reasons. For, (hiring Ihe afternoon's tramp, much
of his old hunting ground had loomed insight. —
Pikes and James's peaks showed their bald, cold,
shining heads as the sim wl. And the mniuitaiiin
on each side of the upper river began to show the
irregularities of their surfaces, f'o that as we rodo
along ga/.ing nt these stupendous piles of rocks
and earth and ice. be would often direct his atten-
lion to the outlines of chasms, faintly traced on the
shadings of the clitTs, Ihrongh which various
streams on which he had trapped, tumbled into the
plains. I Was particularly intcrcHted in his ac.
count of Rio Wulfano, a branch of tlic .Arkatisw
on the ;\Ioxicttn side ; the mouth of which is lli
nvlof Iwlow that ol' the Fontcqnobouir. It has

ml brcakfa.st next moming.
.luly l.'l, l.'i miles along the banks of the Ar-
kansas ; the soil composed of siiid slightly inter-
mixed with clay, too limse to rela>u moisture, and
too little impregnated with the niilritive salts lo
produce any Ihnig save a sjiarsc and stinted
growth of bunch grass and sun-flowers. Occa.
iiional blufl's of sand and limestone bordered the
valley of Ihe stream. In the alternoon the ran ire
of low mountains that lie at Ihc eastern base of
the Ureal rordiUeras and Long's ranges became
visible ; and even these, though pigmies in the
mountain race, were, in inid-sninmer. partially
covered wilh snow. Pike's peak in tin: south-

west, and .luines's peak in the norlliwest, at sun-
set showed their hoary heads above the clouds

which hung around them.

On Ihe Mill, made "Jll miles. Kelly relieved

his servant by surrendering to him bis riding horse

for short distauecs ; and others relieved Hlair .ind

Wood in a similar manner. 'I'lie face of the plain

Iwcaiue more broken as we a])proached Ihe moun-
tains. The waters descending from the lower

hills, have cut what was once a plain into isolated

bluff's 300 or 400 feet in higlil surmounted and

surrounded with eolmnnar and pyramidal rocks.

la the dislnnce they resemble immenso fortreBses,

with towers and bastintis an skillfully arranged as „

lUeycoiUd have been by the Iwnt (iugjcutions ofX iwo jirmoipal UanohM. '4'ha ono orJitKWW ii»

Travels in the Great Western Prairies,

Pike's pTiilt, 70 or 80 miles in the Koutli ; tlio otlior
riKcs far in tlic west amonj; the Eutaw nuiiintain!!,
and has a course of about 200 miles, nearly paral-
lei willi the Arkansas.

Vi'c traveled 28 miles on the IGth over broken
barren liillH sparsely covered with shrub cedars and
pines. 'I'he foliage of llies<> trees is a very dark
treen. 'I'hey cover, more or less, all the low hills
that lie alonfT the roots of the iiioiuiIainH from the
Arkansas north to the .'Missdiui. Ilencc the nanu;
" FJlack Hills" is piven lo that |Mirtion of them
whieh lie between the Swuctwater and the nioiilh
of the Little Mis.souri. The soil of our track to.
day was a. (;ray barren loam, gravel knolls, and
blurt's of sand and limestone.

Alx)ul 1 o'clock, P. M., wc met an miheard of
annoyance, ^\'e were crossing a small plain of red
sand, (fazinj; at the mountains as they opened th<ir
outlines of rock and .^now, when, in an instant, we
were enveloped in.a cloud of Hyinj; a nts with (,'ray.
ish winpfsand dark bodies. 'I'hey lit upon our horses'
heads, necks, and shoulders, in such lunubers as
to cover them as bees do tlu! sides of a hive when
alwut to swarm. They ficw aroimd our own heads
too, and covered our hats and faces. t)ur eyes
seemed special objects of their attention. \\'e
tried to wipe them ofT; hut while the band was
passing from one side of the face to the other, the
part that was left bare was instantly covered as
thickly as before with these creeping, hovering,
nauseous insects. Our animals were so nnieh an-
noyed by their jjcrtinacily, that they sto])jied in
their tracks; and (indiug it impossible to urge
them along, guide them and keej) our faces clear
of the insects at the same time, we dismounted
and led them. Having by this means the free use
of our hands and feet, we were able in tlie course
of half an hoiu to pasr the infested sands, and once
more sih: and breathe like (Christians.

We dined at the mouth of Kelly's ("reek, another
stream that has its sourei: in .lumes's peak. l'"n-
eamped at the mouth of ( (ukley's ereeU. auolher
branch of the Arkansas. It rises in the hills llial lie
35 miles to the north, llisaclear, cool little brook,
with a pebbly Iwttom, and banks clothed with shrub
cedars and pines. Wc had a pleasant evening here,
a cloudless sky, a cold breeze from the snow-elad
mountains, a blazing cedar-wood fire, a song from
oiu' merry Joe, a dish of 'tole' and a due couch of
Hand. Uho wants more comforts tlian wc en-
joyed ? My debilitated system had begun to thrive
mider the bracing influence of the mountain air;
my companions were well and liappy ; our horses
uTid mules were grazing u|>on a plat of rich grass ;
we were almost within touch of those stupendous
ridges of rock and snow which stay or send forth
the tempest in its course, and gather in their rug.
gcd embrace the noblest rivers of the world.

July 17. Wc made 20 miles to.day among the
deep gullies and natural fortresses of this great
gateway to the mountains. All aromid gave evi.
dencc that the agents of nature have struggled
here in their mightiest wrath, not the volcano,
but the floods of ages. Ravines hundreds of feet
in depth ; vast insular mounds of earth towering
in all directions, sometimes sunnoiinted by frag-
ments of mountains ; at others with stratified rocks;
the whole range of vision was a flowcrless, blade,
lees desolation ! Our encampment for the night
was at the mouth of Wood's creek, 5 miles from

the debouchure of the Arkansas from the moun-
tains. The ridges on the south of the river, as
viewed from this place, prcaenled an embankment
of congregated hUls, piled one aliovc another to the
region of snow, and scored into deep and irregular
chasms, frowning precipice s, tottering rocks, and
black glistening strata, whose recent fractures in-
dicated that they were continually sending upon
the humble hills IkIow weighty testimony of their
own superior bight and might. Nothmg could
be more perfeetly wild. The sunuuils were
capped with ice. The ravines which radiated
from their aj)iees were /illrd with snow far (jown
their course; and so utterly rough was the whole
mass, that there did not apjicarto be afoot of plain
surface upon it. Eternal, sublime confusion I

This range runs down the Arkansas, bearing m
little south of a parallel with it, the distance of
alHHil .'')(1 miles, and then turning southward Inars
olV to Taos ai.d .Santa Fe. Hack of this ri<l^r( t'>
lh(! westward, and i;oiiiieclC(l with it, there is said
to b<> a viry extensive tract of mountains which
embrace the sources ol the liio liravo del Norte,
the Wolfano, and other branches of the Arkansas;
and a numbir of streams that fall into Klo
('olorado of the West, and the (iulf of Caiifornia.
Among these bights live the East .iiid West
hands of the Kutaws. The valleys in which thrv
reside are said to be overlooked hy mountains of
shining i;laciers, and in every other respect to re.
semblc the valleys of Switzerland. I'hey are a
brave, treacherous race, anil said to number alKiut
8.000 souls. They raise mules, horses, and sheep,
and cultivate corn and beans — trap the beaver —
manufacture woolen blankets with u darniuL'^-
needlo — and intermarry witli the Mexican !Spa.
niards.

Sixty miles east of these monntain.s, and .'iO
south of the Arkansas, stands, isolated on the
plain. Pike's Peak, and the lesser ones that clus-
ter around it. This Peak is covered with perpi'-
lual snow and ice <lown one-lhird its hight. The
sulmrdinatc ones rise near to the line of perpetual
congelation, and stand out upon the sky like giant
watchmen, as if to (iroteet the vestal snows alK)v(!
them from the |)olluting tread of man. On the
north side of tli(! river a range of mountains, or
hills, as they have been called by tho.sc who are
in the habit of looking on the Great Main
Hidges, rise almut 2,000 feet above the plain. —
They resemble, in their general characteriBticn,
those on the south. Like them, they are dark
and broken — like them, sparsely covered on their
sides with shrub pines and cedars. They diverge
also from the river as they descend : and after
descending it 40 miles, turn to the north and Ios<;
themselves in ths bights which congregate around
James's Peak.

On the morning of the 18th we rose early,
made our simple repast of tole, and prepared to
enter the mountains. A joyfid occasion this, —
Tho storms, the nnni, the swollen streams, the
bleakness and barrenness of the Great Prairio
Wilderness, in an hour's ride, would be behind
us ; and the deep, rich vales, the cool streams and
breezes, and transparent atmosphere of tlic more
elevated regions, were to be entered. Wood's
crc(;k, on whieh wc had passed the night, is a
cold, heavy torrent, from the nortliem hills. At
tlitt ford, it was about tltrcc feet deep ai^d Bcvcn

in the Rochj Mountains, the Oregon Territory, etc.

yards wide. Hut the current was bo slronir as to
brar away two of ot"- saddk'-liorws. One of
thriir was my I'uebla animal. She entered llie '
Ktreani willi all the eautiiui neertiwary lor tli<^ re.
unit. Stepiimt; alternately l>aek, forward, and
Hidcwise, and examining the eirect of every lollinji
filonc upon the lawn of her own ;.'ravily> she final-
ly (fathered her ii^'ly lonn u|H)n one of Hull'icient
size and moliility to phmpe liers'lf and rider into
the Ktreain. She Hoateil down u tew yards, and.
eonlrary to my in'*t fervent de-siie, eanie upon
her feel ajjain, and made the land. Hy dint of
■wadini;, and partially drowninij, and oiIht like
a^rrei'ahlc ablutions, we found ourselves nt last on
the ri'^ht tide of the water : and hiivini; bestowed
upon it Kundry connnendatory epithels of lonjr
and approved nsi- under like eireunistanees, we
remounted ; and shiverinir in the Ireeziu'^' winds
from the n<i^bl)orinir snows, trotte<l on at a piee
BO merry and fast, that thiee.cpiarters of an liour
brought us to the buttress of the elitls, where the
Arkansas leaps foaminfr from them.

This liver runs 'illO miles anions; the moiin-
taiiis. 'J'hc first halt of the distanee is auionij a
series of eliarminij vallies, stf)eked with an endless
number of deer and elk, wliieli, in the sununer,
livi' ui)()U the nutritious wild ;rrass of the vales,

ArkansaB, to tlio dividing ridge l)otwccn the wa.
lers of that river and those of the southern head-
waters of (lie south fork of the lireat Platte.

About midway its liiiglh, the trail or Indian
Iraek divides : the one hraneh makes a eireuit
among the bights to the westward, terminates in
till' great valley of the South I'ork of the Platte,
within th(^ mountains, eonmionly e.illid " Hoyou
Salaile ;"' and the other anil shorter bads north-
wardly up the gorge to the same point. Our
guide earefidly ex.iuiined both trails at the di-
verging point ; :ind lluding the more western one
most traveled, and believing, lor this reason, the
eastward one least likely to be oeeupii'd by the
Indians, he led us up it to the foot of the niouu-
tain wliieli separates it from the vales beyond. —
We arrived at a littU' open spot at the base of the
bight about 1:3 o'eloek. 'I'lie slerpest \>;iTl of the.
trail up the declivity was a loose, moving surface
of sand and pel)bles, eoustanlly falling under its
own weight. Other jtortions were j)recipitf>'.is,
lying along overhanging elitls and the '■ i.uis of
deep ravines strewn with fallen rock.. To as-
cend it seemed impossible ; but our old iteiituck-

ian w.is of a difl'eieul opinion.

In his hunting e.\peditions be had often as-

•euded and descended worse steeps with jiacks of

and in the winter, ujion the buds and twigs and j beaver, traps, &,c. .Vnd after a descrijition of

bark of trees. The Hit) miles of its course ue.vt
below is among jicrpendieular clilFs rising' on both
sides hundicds, and sometimes thousands of fiet
in bight. Through this dismal ehunnel, uilh a
rapid ciu'reul down lolly pieei|)iees. and through
compressed passes, it pluiigi'S anil roars to this
point, where it escapes nnhly and irlei'lully, as if
glad for iiaving tied some fe.irful eiliel of nature,
consigning it to j)erpetual im|>risoniMent in those
dismal caverns.

Here we entered the Uocky ]Mouulains tlirough
u dee]> gorge at the right, Ibrmeil by the waters
of a little br(M)k whii.h eonus down from the
north. It is a sweet stream. It b ilibles so -.Ic-
lightfully upon the car, like those that flowed by
one's home, when youth w.is dreaming of the
lioi)es of coming years in the sinile of the hendock
by the family spring. On its banks grew the
dandelion, the angelica, the elder, the alder and
birch, ami the mount ain-tla.v. The pebbles, too,
seemed old aciiuaintancis, they were sf> like
those whieli I had often g itliered with a lovely
sister long since dead, who would teach me how
to select the prettiest and best. The verj' moun-
tains were dark aiul mighty, ami overhanging
and striped with the departing snows, like those
that I viewed in the first years of remembraiu'c
as 1 frolicked with my liiotlK is on the mossy
rocks. We soon lost sight of the Arkansas among
the small pines and cedars of the valley, and this
wo were sorry to do. The good old stream had
given us many a fine cat-fish, and many a bum-
per of delicious water while we traveli'd wearily
along its parched banks. It was like parting
with an old companion that had ministered to
our wants, and stood with us in anxious, danger
ous times. And it was, therefore, ])leasant to
hear its voice come uj) fro.u the caverns like a
sacred farewell while we wound our way up the
valley.

This gorge or valley runs about ton miles in a
nortiiwardly diroclion from the d' bouchitfc uf the

others of a much more diflieult nature, which he
' had made with worse animals and heavier packs,
j through storms of bail and heaps of snow ; and
j alter the assuraneclh.it theKutaw village of tents,
I and women and ehildieii, had passed this not
j many moons ago, we lelt nettled at our own ig-
i noranee oljiossibilities in these regions, and drove
oil' to till' task. Our worthy guide led the way
with his saddle-horse following iiim ; the pack
animals, each under the c.icouraging guardian-
j ship of a vigorous goad, and the men and myself
; leadiuL' our riding animals, brought up the rear.
Now for a long puil and a slr-'iig pull and a pull,
I not .dtogelhcr, but carb leg on its own account.
; Five or six rods of a zigzag claiiiberuig and sli]i-
ping and gathering am! tiigguig, advanced us one
I oil the ascent ; and then a hall for brealh and
stniigtli for a new etVort. And tlie puffing and
j blowing over, a general shout, "go on, go on,"
started the cavalcade again. The pack animals,
i with each 1.51) pounds weight, struggled and
I floundered, as step alter step gave way in the
I .<liding sand ; but they labored madly, and ad.
vaneed al intervals of a few yards end resting,
and on again, till they arrived at the rocky sur-
face about midway theascent. Here a short pause
n]Km the declivity was interrupted by a call of
" onward" from our guide ; and again we climbed.
The track wound around a beetling clilV, which
crowded the animals upon the edge of a frightful
precipice. In the most dangerous part of it my
I'uebla marc ran her pack against a projecting
rock, and for an instiuit reeled over an abyss .Kit)
feel in depth. Hut her fortune favored ; she
blundered away from her grave, and lived to
make a deeper |ilungc farther along the journey.
The up])er half, though less steep, proved to Ix!
the worst part of the ascent. It was a bed of
rocks, at one place small and rolling, at another
large and fixed, with deep openings between
thcni. So that our animals were alnioBt con-
Btautly falling, and l^ itwiiig uixjn the brink of

Trnvch in the Great Western Prnincs,

the clifTK, as tlipy rose nj;aui and made (hrir way
nmonR Ihcni. An hour and a hall' of tliis most
danfjcrouB and lirrsonic chiinhrrinjj drpotiilrd up
in a (jrove of yrllow pincK nrar thr smnniil. f)Mr
aniinalK wrrc covcrrd wllh sweat and dirl, and
trrnd)lc'd as if at tlial instant fn>ni (he riicc. track.
Ni>r were tlirir masters free from ivery ill of
weariness. Our knees smote each oilier with fa-
tijine, as Helshazzar's did willi fear.

Many of the pines on this ridije were two feel
in diameter, and a hmxlred feet lii{;li. with small
chisters id' limhs aronnd the lops. Others were
low, and elollied with slronfj limhs tpiile near Ihe
yromul. I'lider a mnnhir of these latter we li:id
spated onrwives, holding the reins of our riding;
horses, when a slorm arose with the rapidity of a
whirlwind, and poured upon us hail and rain and
Hnow with all iinai;inal)li' liheralily. A most re-
niarkalile lempfsl was this. I'niike those who^e
monotonous jj;roans are hoard amon;; tludni'n
Mountains for days hefore (hey assendile their lii-
ry arounil you, it i-auie in its slreni;th at once,
and roeked the stately pines to their most distani
roots. Uidike those Ion;; " hlows,'' whieh, gene- J
rated in Ihe frozen zone of Ihe Atlantic seas, |1
brini; down Ihe frosly hiasts of (iroenland upon
the warmer climes of Ihe Slates, il was Ihe meet,
intr of dilVerent eurreiils of Ihe aiirial seas, lashiil
and lorn hy Ihe live lhund<r, amonj; Ihe soumlini;
mountains. I'idike any Ihiiiir hut itself, one
portion of it ha<l jjathered its elcelrieily and mist
around .lames's I'eak in Ihe east ; another amoni:
the while hiyhls norlhwest ; and a third amouji
Ihe snow V pyramids of the Kutaws in Ihe soulh-
wcHl ; anri, marshallinir their hosts, met over Ihis
coiuiectinij ridfje helwccu the eastern and central
ranges, as if hv fxciaral haltle to sellle a vexed
question as to the heller liirht lo the I'ass ; and il
was sublimely fonchl. 'I'lie opposini; storms met
i»v\rly at Ihe zenilh. an<l fiercely rolled tojrether
their aUjiry masses. And as if In carry mil the
simile I liave here aUcmpli'd, at the monienl of
their junelion, Ihe elec ricity of each leaped upon
its aniajronist transversely across Ihe lieavi ns,
and in some instances fell ill imiuense holts upon
the Iremblinu dill's ; and Iheii instantly c.ime a
volley of hail as lartje as irrape-shol, suHieienl lo
whiten all the towers of this horrid war. It last-
ed an hour. I never hefore, not even on Ihe
pluiiiH, Haw siieh a moveiiK'nl of Ihe eli'iiients. —
And if anythin!^ had heeu wauling lo eslahlish
Iho theory, this cxhihilinn suHiced lo eonvince
thoKc who saw its movtmeiils and fell its |H)wer,
that these mountains arc Ihe ureal lahoralory of
mist and wind and electricity, which, formed
into Ktorins, are sent in such awful fury upon tlu'
great plains or prairies llial slrcteh away from
their bases to the Slates ; and that Ihii^ alone may
be witnessed the e.vtronie i>ower ol the warring el-
snients.

After the violence of the tempest iiad abated,
we traveled up the remainder of Ihe ascent and
halted a few minutes on Ihe summit lo view the
scene around us. Hehinil was the valley up
which we had lravele<l, covcreil with evcrjrrc( n
shrubH. On the east of this, rose a preciiiitous
wall of stratified rock, 2,00(1 or .•J.OOO feet hi^r],,
Etrctchinjr ofT towards llio Arkansas, and doited
I'.eirt and there with the ninall shrub pine strug^lin^f
(I'oio th« orevioei ul' tho rocki, ■ ■•■. tlio Notiiiiwciit,

the monnlains, less preeipilons, rose one nhnve
another in the dislanee till their blue tops faded
into the semblance of Ihe sky. To Ihe east of
eur iwisilion, there was nothing in si);ht but piles
of mountains, whose d.irk and rajjijed masses in-
creased in liighl and magnilude till they lowered
in naked graiiik iir around .lames's reali. From
that frozen bight ran uU'lo IIk' north that seiond-
ary ra.igc of monnlains lliat lie bclwcen Hie
hc",i(l-walers of Ihe Soulh h'ork of Ihe I'lallc and
Ihe plains. 'I'his is a range of lirown, barren, anil
hiokeu ridges, dcstilule alike of eai'lh and shruh,
with an average bight of HODII feel above the
plain. On Ihe weslern side of il. and north of
Ihe |il,ice where we were viewing Ihein, hills of a
conslaully decreasing highl fall oir for M miles lo
Ihe noilhwcsl, till liny sink in Ihe bcaiiliful val-
lev of Itoyoii Sal.iile, and then rising again lower
higher .lud higher in Ihe west iinlil lost in the
haze about Ihe base of the ,\nahuac range ; a.
vast waste of midusled rocks; wilhoiil a Ihnver
or leaf Id adoiii il, save Ihose Ihal hide their
sweelness from ilH elenial winters in the glens
down which we v ere to travel.

'I'he Analmai- ridiic of the snowy range was vis-
ible for at least 1 1 10 miles of latitude ; and Ihe near-
est point was so f'Vilisliinl Ihal Ihe, dip of Ihe hori-
zon concealed all that portion of il below Ihe line of
periieliial congelation. The whole mass was purely
white. The principal irregularity perceptible was a
slight undulation on the upper edge. There was,
however, perccplible shading on Ihe lower edge, pro-
ilueeil. perhaps, by great laleral swells protruding
from Ihe general outline, liiil Ihe mass, at least
0(1 miles dislani. as white as milk, Ihe home of
Ihe frosts of :.ll e!_res, slrelching away lo Ihe north
by wesi full a hundred miles, unsealed by anv
living Ihiin;. e.ieept perhaps by the bold bird of
our national ar'}i:> ;

** Branil, hifjli, etprmil ami subliinr.
Tlie niOi:k otrtiies, anil Ihe twin o( lime."

is an objeel of amazing gramleur, unequalcd pto.

i bably on the f'ai e of Ihe i;l(ibe.

We left this inlercstiuir pniorania and traveled
down five miles to Ihesiile of a lillle si;vam run.
ning norlh. ami eiieaui|ied. AVe were wel from
head lo fool, and shiveriii'i' with cold. The day

i had inde'il been one of nmcli diseomfort ; yet we
had been well repaid for all this bv Ihe absorbing

! freshness and sublimilv Ihal liuilg around us. 'I'he
lightning bounding on the crags; the thnnder
breaking Ihe slumber of the mountains ; a cooler
eliinate. and Ihe noble jiine again ; a view of the
(ireat .Main snowv range of the " Uoekv, "
" Stone " or ". 'Shining" inountains, soulh of the
Cereal (iap. from a bight never before trodilen by
a civilized lourisl, Ihe. sight of the endless assem-
blage of rocky peaks, among which our weary feet
were yet to tread along unexplored waters, were
Ihe delights which lay upon the track of Ihe day,
and made us liajipy at our evening lire. Our sup-
per of water porridge being eaten, we tried lo slec]).
But the cold wind from Ihe snow soon drove us
from oiir blankets to our fire, where we turned
onrselveslike( 'hrislinns lurkics till morniiUj. The
mountain (lax grew around our encampment.
lOvery stidk was stiircned hy the frosts of the
night ; ajid the waters of the brooks were barred
with ice. This is the birlh-iduce of the Platte.

Fruiu thcw gorge* iii iloodii receive oxintencci

in Hic Roekii Monnlaint, llie Oreffon Tcrrilori/, etc.

nimvr
fndrd

P.IRl of

piliH

iSl'K ill.

)W(ri(l

I'Vom

rioiid.

tlir

Itc anil

II, mill

Klinili,

the

Mill of

lis (if II

lilcH III

"ill Vill-

towrr

till

" (In' "

nmnng llic sturdy solcnm pines nnd niirsip;^ I"-,!!. |j
pcstn, 12 iniirs liorlli of the ArkaiisaK's dcmiirlir. |
mpnl from the nioimlaiiis, mid '10 miles due west 1
from James's Peak.

Oil the inili we tnivelrd in n norlliward eoiirse !
down the little Hlreanis hiirsliiiL.' from the hills and t'
balililiiij; ainollj,' the liiishes. W'c were U|hiii an '
Indian trail full ot sharp uravel that aniioved our |
iinimals exreedin^rly. 'I'ji,., pines were niten dif- ''
lleiilt to pass, SI) tliiek were they, lint the rii.'hl :
emirse was easily diseiivi red aninir^f them, even '
vv hen the soil was m hard as tii have rereived no
impression frniii previous traveling, hy t^inall |
stones wliieh the I'liil.iws had plaeed ammi); the ,
liraiiehes. .Mmiil mid-day we saw seatleriiit; spears
ef the wild lla.v ajfain, and a few smiill slirnhs of I
the hiaek liireli near the w.iter emirses. 'I'lie |
r nilless elimhini; and deseeiidin;,'iir liills prevented
I'lir makini; miieli pmijress. At 'i ii'i'lnili we'
indjred ourselves lint ID miles IVom the last niirht's
1 iieampmi-nt. A eloiid of hiil then liey;inniiis
to pelt and ehill iis, we took shelter in a small I'
(M-ove of pines. Hut as the hail had fallen twoj
iiie!ies in depth over the whole adjuliiinir eoimtrv,
every movement of tlw atmosphere was like a i
lilasi of Deeeniher. 'I'lio eold to sleep ; we there- ]
t'lre liiiilt fires and dried our jiaeks, \e. till the'
howl ot the wolves [raviMiotiee of the approaeh of
moriiinij. 'J'ole for lireakfast. It had Ihiii our
only food for nine days. It seemed slranyie that
we should have traveled lf<!l miles in a eoimtry ]
like that we had passed thronirh siiiee leaving I''ort
\\ illiam, without killiiip; an animal. Hut it eeused
til appear so, when our worthy ijuide informed us
that no iiiiliviiliial had ever eoiiie from the Ar- '
kaiisas, in the refrion of the I-'ort, to the iiioiin- ,
tains, with as little siilVeriii'.' as we had. " It is,"
said lie, "a Htarvintj; eouiiliy; never any came i
found in it. 'I'ho hiiHalo come into these valley i
from the north thioujjh the Itiill Peii ; and ^o out
tliiTe when the Ktornis of the autumn warn Ihern '
to llei ;■! the south fur warm winter ipiarters. I!ut !
that valley oti' iliere, (pointiiii; to a low smooth ''.
vpot in the horizon) looks niii;hly like Moyou ."^a- ''
lade, my old sl.-inipiiur (rrouiid. It it should lie, '
we will have meat before the sun is liehiud the
snow."' We were well pleased with thi.-; prospeet.
( )ur .Mexieaii servant eried at the top of iiis voice
" I'Ista miiy hiieno, Senor Kelly, si, muy hueiio, |
esle Uoyou i^alade ; mueho earne por nusotros." j
And the poor fellow had some reasons for this e.x- |
prission of joy ; for the tole reijimen had hecn to '
iiim what tie- wat( r j;niel of the miidfniir work-'
house was to Oliver 'I'wist, e\eepl that its exeel-
leut ll.ivor had never indueed the .Mexiean " to |
ai^k tor more." He had, on iirevioiisoeeasions, in I
I'onipany with Kelly, gnawed the rihs of many a ,
fat eow in Hovou Salade ; and the instinels of his ^
sloinaeh put him in such a tren/.y at the recol. i
leelion, that althoujrh he eoiild only imdirstand
till' words " linyoii Salade," these were sutlieieiit
to iiiduec him to cross himself from the forest ep to
the ahdomen, and to swear h)- Santa (taudaloupc
that tole was not food for a Christian mouth.

On theSDtli we were earl}- on our way. The I
small prairie wolf that had howled us losleep every 1
eveninjr, and howled is awake every morning i
«'1CP. wo left Indepcndcnee, was continually
greeting UH with un ill-natured growl, as uc rodo
ftlong among hiu hidiug plucov. 'i'ho iUcaiiiB tlitkt |

wvrv mere rivulets 2(1 miles hack, Imviilg received
a thousand (riliutaries, were now heavy and deep
tern iits. The peaks and niountain swells were
clad with hail and snow. I'lVery tiling, even our.
selvi s, shlveriiii; in our hlaiikels, (jave evidence
that we were Iraversinu' the realms of winter. Still
many of the crasses and tlowers that usually
llourish in hi;;h latitudes and elevated places were
tfpiu iiej; aloni; the radices of the lulls, and aided
mill h ill );ivin;; the whole scene an unusuidlv sin-
ijiilar a!-pec(. We were in line spirits, and in the
iiijoynient of a voracious appetite. < hir expect i-
tiouii of haviii;; a shot soon at a ImfTilo, were pcr-
liap- .111 accessory cause of this last, liiit he th.it
as it may, we dodifcd aloii^ anioii;; the pines and
spruce and hemlock and lirs alHnit Id miles, and
ro^:covrr a swell ol land covcied with siiiail trees
in tiillviewofa i|uict little hand of liutl'ilo. Ye
diiliis who presided of old over the trencher and
(fi.h'ct, did not our palates leap (or a tender loin '
A halt — the crecpinir away of our famous old Iven-
tii'kian around a copse of wood — the crack of his
de lOly rille--(lie \\rilliin;f of the hiitl'do '. lie lays
hill'.-' If trenlly down ; all is silent, intense anxiety
if If will rise airaiii and run, us they often do un-
der till' smart of a wound, hcvoud our reach ainonjj
the liills. Nol he curls his tail as in the last
a(_'ni:v ; he voiiiils hlooil and elioaks ; he is ours I
III' 1: oursl 1 Our knives are quiiddy hauled from
th'ir sheaths — he is lulled upon his brisket — his
liidi is slit alonir the s|iiue. and pealed down mid
rib; line siile of it is cut olV and spread upmi the
sand to receive the meat ; the flesh on e;ich siric of
the spine is parreil otV; the moiiili is npened, and
till l.piii.'Ue wrenched from his jaws; the axe is laid
to his rib ; the cavitv opens : the heart — the (at —
llii' (cnder loins — the te|>id blood— the intestines,
of ;;lorious savorv sausafe nicniory, are lorn out —
his lejrs are ritlcil of their jrcneroiis marrow l)one.< ;
all wrapped in the irnru hide, and loaded on ani-
mals, .mil olVio camp in a charniini; }rrovcot while
pine hv a cold slie.un of water under a woody hill I
Ah 1 yes I Who that had seen us stirring our
fires that niirhl in the starlight of bright skes
ainom; llie mountain forests ; who that had seen
the liutV.dll ribs propped up before the eracklill^;
i blaze- -the brisket iKiilinj; in our cami). kettles;
' who thai had seen us with open counlcnanees yield
to these well cooked and drippini; invitations to
I " drive dull care away," will not believe that we
aecepted tlieiii. and chewed and swallowed against
tiiiie, and liuii[,'er. and tole > Yes. we ate that
blessed nit;lil till there was a reiisonable ])resmiip-
tionthitwe had caleii enough. .\iid when we
bad s]iciit a half hour in this delightful einploy-
j nicnl. tli;it presumption was supported by a pil.' of
tjiiawcd bones, that if put together by Uul'jii in
bis best style, would have supported not only that
; but another presmiiptioii to the like etreei. Hut
our hearty old Kciituckian was at home, and wc
; were his iniesls. He sat at the head of his own
I board, and claimed to dictate the number of course
with which we should be served. " No, no," said
he. as Kv rolled away iVoiii the bare ribs strewn
around us, to our couches of pine leaves, '"no, no,
I have eaten with you, fared well, and now you
must put courage u|) while you cat with nie ; no,
no, not done yet ; mighty good eating to come.
Take a rest upon it if you Ukc, wliile I cook un.
other turn ; but I'll \n»wc you to «at till da/ pQO\)t,

Travels in the Ortat Western Prairies,

Our mini licrc- in llic inouiitaiiis iirvfr painH one.
Nolliiii'.; iKirniB liorc but pills ami Irad ; iniiiiy>
the tiinc llial I li.ivo starved six and ciglil days;
ami wlirii I liavr found moat, ate nil nijjiil:
that's llio cntilnm of the. romitry. Wr never Imr-
r<i\v troidile from linnger or thirst, and when we
liave a plenty, we eat the best pieees first, for fear
of beinjr killed by some brat of an Indian lielori'
we have enjoyeil lliem. You may eat as much as
yon ean ; my word for it, this wild meat never
liurtH one. Hut your ehickens an<l bacon. iVe. in
the s<'ttleineiilH, it eaine rifjhl near Hhovini,' me
into llie Keny.m when I was down there Inst.'"
While the (xei'lle.-it man was^jiviii;; vent to lliet.e
kind feelinjis, he was busy makini; preparations
for anothiT eourse. The marrow l)ones were un.
derpoinjj a sovrrc llajrellalion ; the blows of the
old hunter's hatiliel were er.iekinj; Iheni in pieees.
and liiyinj; bare the rolls of " trapper's bnller"
within them. A pound of marrow was thus e.\-
Irucled, and pill into a jjallon of water healed
nearly lotlie boiliiii; point. The blood wliiili hi'
had (lipped from the cavity of the lintlido was then
Btirred in till the mass beeame of the consistency
of rice soup. A little salt and black pcp))cr liuislicil
the preparation. It was a (hie liisli ; too rich,
perhaps, for some of my esteemed aeipiaintaiii'es,
whose dijfcslive ort;ans partake of llic jrcncral lazi-
ness of their habits ; but to us who liad so Ion;; dc.
sired a healthful portion of luiilily excieise in that
(pnrter, it was the very marrow .iihI life-blood oI —
not Grahamism, for our frieixl (.inli iin 1 think
does not Inlieve in marrow and fatness — the miir.
row and fatness and life-blood ol whalsocvcr is
(rood and wli(desomc for famished earnivirons ani-
mals like ourselves. It was excellent, most excel-
lent. It was lictler than our father's foamint; ale.
l''or while it loosed our tongues and warmidoiir
hearts towards one another, it had the additional
erteet of Aaron's oil ; it made our faces to .'^liine
with (Tie isc and ijladncss. Hut the rcmeiubrance
of the palate pleasnresof the next course, will not
allow me to dwell lonjier n|)on this. Tlie crown-
injr deliirht was yet in store for us.

While enjoyin;; the soup, which I have just
described, wi' believed the bumper of our pleas-
ures to be sparkliinf to the brim ; and if our ex-
cellent old trapper had not been there, we never
should have desired more. Hut how true is that
philosophy which tc.iclies, that to be Ciipable of
liappiness, we must be coiKscious of wants ! Oi.r
friend Kelly was in this a practical as well as tlieo-
relioal Epicurean. " No givin<r up the beaver
so," said lie ; " another bait and we will sleep."
.Sayinj; tliis, he sei/,ed the intestines of the Imf.
falo, which had Ircu properly chancd for the
jiurjiose, turned them inside out, and as he pro.
ceeded stuffed them with strips of well sailed and
])ep|M'rcd tenderloin. t>nr " boiidies" thus made,
were stuck u|K)n sticks before the (ire, and roastod
till they were thoronghly cooked and bro«ncd.
The sticks were then taken from their roastiir^r i>o.
Bition and stuck in position for eatinj;. That is to
say, each of us with as fine an appetite as ever
blessed a New-l'hijrlanil boy at his (jrandsire's
Thanksgivinff Dinner, seized u stick spit, stuck it
in tlie earth near our couches, and sitting upon
our haunches ate our last course — the desert of our
mountain host's entertainment. These wilderness
situsagcB would have gratiiiud the appetite of tlioso

who had been deprived of meat a less time than we
had been. The envelopes preserve the jiiiees of
with which while cookinii, the ndlieriuK fat, turned
wilhin, ininirlcsand Ibrnis a pravy of the liiust fla-
vor, .'^nch is a feasi in the inoimtains.

Since Isaviiif; I'ort William wc had been occa.
sioiially erossini; the trails of the I'litaw war par-
ties, and had fell some solieiliide for the safety of
our little band. An overwhelming number of
them mi(;ht fall ii|Hin ns at nifrht i:nil aimihilalu
us at a blow, lint we had thus far selected such
encanipmenls, am! liad such conlidenee in our
rides and in our dofj, who never lailid to f;ivc us
notice of the least niovenient of a wolf or pan-
ther at niirlil, that we had not stationed a Kuard
since leavinj; that post, (hir pnideloo Bnnclioned
this course; alw.ays saying; when llie subject
was inlroilueed that the dawn of day was
the time lor Indian allacUs, and that they
would rise early lo find his eyes slilit after
the howl of the wolf on the hills had nnnouneid
the approach of li^lit. We however look the
preeaulion to eneaniji at nijjhl in a deep woody
irlin, whicii conceali'd the h(;lil of our fins, and
slept with our etpiipments upon ns, and our well
primed rifles across our breisls.

On the moniinK of the 'Jlst wt were awakened
at sunrise, by our servant who had Ihuseaily been
in .search of our aniinalv. Tlie sun rose ovi r
the eastern niounlaiiis brillianlly and jrave prom-
ise of a fine day. Our route lay amonu vast
swelliiiL' hills, the sides of wliie'i weri' eovcred
with en VI s of the larjrc yellow pine and asj)en.
These \\\' r trees exclude every othi r from Ihi ir
society . "iiy stand sf) idosily that not the half of
their number live nnlil they are five inches in di-
ameter. Those also that <;row on the lM)rders of
the ifroves are |;eni rally destroyed, beinij deprived
of tiieir bark seven or eiirlit lei t uji, by tlie elk
which resort to tliein yearly lo rnb oil' the annu-
al i;rowlh of their boms. The .miow on the tops
of the hills was mrltinff, and almii; the lower
edge of it, where the grass was green and tender,
herds of builalo were gr izing. So far distant
were they from the vales Ibrongh which we trav-
ilid, that Ihey appeared a vast colleelion of dark
sjiecks on the line of the sky. Hy the side of the
|iebbly brooks, many beautiful plants grew. A
sjiecics of eonvolviilons and honeysuckle, two
species of wild hops and the mountain flax, were,
among them. Fruits were also beginning to ap-
pear ; as wild |)liini8, currants, yellow and black;
the latter like those of llie same color in the gar-
dens, the former larger than either the red or
black, but of an unph'asant astringent flavor. —
We liad not, since entering the mountains, seen
any indication of volcanic action. The roeky
strata and the soil appeared to be of primary form-
ation. We made 15 miles to-day in a general
course of north by west.

On the 2".Jd we traveled 8 miles through a coun-
try similar to that passed the day before. WV.
were still on the waters of the Platte ; but seldom
in sight of the main stream. Nnmerous noisy
brooks ran among the rolling hills over wliieh wc
rode. During the early part of the morning buf-
falo bulls were often seen crossing our path : they
were however so poor and undesirable that wc
shot none of them. About 10 o'clock we came
upon a. fresh trail, diBtinctly marked by hoofs and

in the Roehj Mountains, the Orei;on Territory, etc.

draRjflnj; lor^r. polcd. Kclloy judjifil i\\cm "nlgiiH"
to be nut more timn 'J'l lioiirH oM, and \n Imvr
brcii mnclc by ii parly of EutaWB which hud piiBHid
into Ilaynu Snhtdc U) himt thr hiitralo. Iloxlili;
liidiatm in our immediate nci){ldKirhoorl was by no
ineaiis an ai;riTahle circuniHtancr lo us. We
roiild not contrnd with any hope ol'sncceBU ajfaiiiHt
l.'>ll lomahiiwltfi and an rqnal iiimdicr of niUHkcts
and Ikiwh and airows. 'I'hcy wuuld alwj frighten
the hiilFalo hark to llie Bull pin and llint pirvcnt
iiH from layinjj in a htmk of meal f.irther alon;; lo
Hup|N)rl us iierciss Ihr desert in advance 'if us. We
therefore drtermined to kill the next hidl that wi-
should meet, lurelhe best pieeis lor paekini;, and
lliuM prepare oiuselveB for a wicj^'e or a retreat, as
eireums'anires nii(rht dietale ; or if the Indians
Hliould ,)revent our obtaining other and better
meat anil y' not interrupt us by any lioHtili- de.
niotislralioi , in purHuini; "ur journry, we nui;hl,
by an eruiHomiial use of what we could pack from
tliiH point, be able lo reach, before we tihould perish
with huiijrcr, llic (fauK! which we hoped to fmil
on tributaries of (jnuid F{iver. We thcreliire
moved on with (;r«at c-aution ; and at alKiul "J
o'lloek killed a lincyounK bull, lie fell in a (jlcn
Ihrouirh which a lilllc brook munnured alon;j lo a
copw just ImIow. 'I'lic bulls in considerable num-
ber were lielehiiii; their sur|)luH wrath on llie other
Hide of the liltU^ wood with us much ajiparent com-
placency as certain aniinalfl with fewer le);s and
iioriiK often do, when there is not likely to l)e any
Ihin^ in l)artieular to opjMiBe tin oi. Hut fortu-
nutely for the rejiiitiition of their j>relentiuiis, as
"fionietimcs iLipjieiis to I heir biped hn'thern, a eir.
ennislancc chanced to occur, when their eouniye
seemed waxiiif; to the burstiii}; slalis on which it
could exjiend its enerjjies. 'I'hc blood of their
Blaughtcred eoinjianion scented the breeze, and on
thry came, 2(1 or more, tail in air, to take proper
vengeance. We dropjicd our butcher knives,
mounted (juiekly, and wore about to acconiniodate
tlicni with the contents of our rifles, when, like
many )ier))eiidieular bi'llowcrs, as certain dinger
comes, lliey tied as bravely as they hud approachid.
Away they racked, for butl'alo never trot, ovirthe
brown barren hills in the northeast, lookinj; neither
to the ri;,'ht nor left, for the lonnr hair around the
head does not |)ernii t nuch aberrations of their
optics ; but onward (jloriously did they roll their
massive bulks — now sinking in the vales ndliow
blowing U|) the ascents ; stopping not an i.isiant
in the career of their indomitul>le eoiirse until
they l<X)ked like crecpinif insects on the brow of
the distant mountain. Having tlms vanquished
by the most consinnmate generalship and a stern
patriotism in the raidis never surpassed by Jew or
Gentile, these "abandoned rebels," we butchered
our meat, and as oni' of the works of returning
peace, loaded it ujmn our atiiinals, and traveled
in search of (|uukinj;sap wood wherewithal to dry
it. 'I'hc traders and tra])pers always prefer this
wood for such purposes, l)ccau8c it is, when dry,
more inodorous than any other; and consequently
docs not BO sensibly change the flavor of the meal
dried over a fire made of it. Half an hour's ride
brought us to a grove of this timber, where we
encamped for the night — dried our meat, and
Eutaws near or far, slept soundly. In f Jiis remark
I should except, perhaps, the largest piece of hu-
man nature among us, who had, aa iiis custom

l| was, curle<l down hard-by our brave old guide
1 and slept at intervals, only an eye at a tini4', for
fear of Indians.

2.'ld. Eightcrn miles to-day among rough pri .
I cipices, overhanging crags, and roaring lorrerls.
There were, however, Iv-tween the declivities and
I among the copses of cotton-WooH, ipiakingnsp and
I Kr, and yellow pine, some open gladi-<i ,-uiil Isauti-
i fill valleys of green verdme, WiiKred by the rivu-
lets gusliing from the stony hills, and spark-
\ \'nvx with be;uitil'ul llowers. i'ive or six miles from
lour hisl encanipiiient we came iqifin thi^ brow ol a
1 woody hill thai overlooked tlu viilley, where llie
|Watei.s on which we were traveling unite willi
I others that come down from the mounlains in the
norlli, and from what is projierly c.illi'd the South
; Fork of the (Jreat l'litl<'. within the niouiilains.
Here we I'oimd fresh Indian tricks; and on lliiil
uceoiml deemed it prudent lo take to the timlii red
higlils Ixirdering the valley on the west, in ordi r
:|to iiRccrlaiil the iHisilimi of the Indiaiis, Iheir
nmulu IS, &ir.. before venliirinu within their reach.
I We aecordinuly li>r Ihrfe hours wound our way
in silince among fidleii timber and thick-set eot-
1 ton. wood — climbed every neighboring height unci
j examined the depressions in the plain which could
not be seen from the lower hills. I Living searched
n the valley tboniiiL'lily in this miiinier, onil per.
('.living from llie peaceable and ('areless beuriii:,'
j of the small bunds of bntliilo around its liorders,
I that if there were Indians within it they were at
|! some distance from our tr.iil, we descended from
jitlie heighlH and struck lhron;;h a deep ravine
l|ni ro.<.s it, to the jimclionofthe norlhern and soiith-
lern walcr^ of tiieslream.

We found the river at Ibis place 150 yards wide,
j and of an average depth of alxml b i'ei't, with a
I current of five miles the hour. Its course henee
lis E. N. E. about IIIO miles, where its rushes
Ij through a magnifiient keiiyon or chasm in the
jieaslejii range of the IJoeky .Mountains to the
I plains of llu^ Ci'rcal I'rairie Wildemes.s. This val-
i icy is a congeries or eollcction of valleys. That
i!is, along the banks of the main anil tributary
streems a vali^ extends a few rods or miles, and is
'neuily or quite se]iarated from a similar one be-
yond, by a rocky ridge or buleor a rounded hill
covered with grass or timber, whiih pn)tru(lcs from
the height towards th(! stream. Tliis is a buirs
eye view of Hoyou Sulade — so named from the
circumstencc that native rock salt is found in some
parts of it. We were in the central |K)rtion of it.
To the north and south and west its isolated plains
risti one above another, always beautiful and cov-
ered with verdure during the inontha of spring and
summer. But when the storms of autumn and
winter come, they arc the receptieles of vast liodles
of snow which fall or arc drifted there from the
Anahnac Ridge, on its western horizon. A sweet
spot this, lor the romance of the future as well as
tiic present and past. The Imffulo have for ages
resorted here about the last days of July, from the
arid plains of the Arkansas and the Platte ; and
thither the Eutaws and Chcyennes from the moun-
tains around tlio Santa F6, and the tshoshonies
or Snakes and Arrapahocs from the west, and tho
Blaekfeet, Crows and Sioux from the north, have
for ages met and hunted and fought and loved. —
And when tlieir battles and hunts were interrupt-
ed by tlto chdls and snows of November, they

TiifcLs in lilt (JrciU Western Pruirici,

Unvi: nrp.TMlod fur llii'ir Mvcriil wiiili r rc.JirlN. —
lliiw wild iiiid Ik iiilitid Ihi |i:iMt iih il ciiiiirM up
llr(1i;ril Willi till' |iliim:iw rd llii; iiimuinilifiii I —
'I'lichr viili'H hliiddiil Willi II lliciiiHniid villiifrrs nf
I'iMiii'.-il xkiii wii^wiiins, willi llirir lliniiNiinds of
(iriH lili/iiii; on llir nlan y linnv id niylil 1 I we
llir dusky fiiriuh crfiucliiii',' iinmiid tln' i;l<(«inx
pill's id' i;;nil('il Idl"*. in liiiiiily frioups wliis|MTiiii;
lllf drr iiiiN id' llii'H' liidf liivi' ; nr l^l(lll■r^ll iiniiiud
llir Ml. iKv. Ill riuiii id H'liii' iioldr rliii'l III tlir liniir
id' iiiiiliii'.;lil, liHli'iiiii!,' In llii' li.ir:iiii;iii' iil' vi'iiu'r-
lUirc iir llir wliiKip 111 vv.ir lliiil is In r;inl llir do.idly
iirrinv willi llii rn>il jM'' i"' "' 'i""'""!!! In.'lil. "r
liiny vvi' mil Ml' lli'iii i;iilliri'i'il. :i riirlrid Ihmvi's
aiiiillid ill! iii;ril Irri', -ill iniMidcilrirli liy tin' lllilsly
triipliii'N III hid! II rriiliiry'K iI.hmi!; drnl.-i. 'I'lir
('l(lr.<l mid rirlii'sl in Hi'iilps risr.s Iniiii llir rriilirid
llir rill!I lIMll Hllvillirrs In llli llir. Ilrir llilll. —
" J'd'lv WIlllriN iiirii, wlirii llir hrvriilli iiuhiii'h i'ust
linrii liimj; nvcr llir (;irrii Imr.sls nf llir l^iil.iw
hills, liiysrir mill (ivr iilliriurn rlril ii Inil^'r („r |||(.
(ilrill .'^piril oil 111" MHiWK ol llir Wllllr illilr.mid
rariird llirlcnur waiiipiliii and i. kins mid llir liidr
III II wllllr liullili). VN I' lillii^ lliriil ill llir (iiral
Spilil's |iid;;i' mid sralril iiiirMlvrs ill silriir.r lill
till' nioipii liad dr;iri iidril llir wislrni ninuiil'iin,
and lliiiii<;lit ii< llir lilimd id iiur lalliris llial Hie
I'linimullrs ll id killril uliril tlir liinoil was liiuiul
and lay on llir raslriii plain. My iiwn l.illirr wa;i
I'i'alpril, and llir liillirrs id Tur olliriti wrir sralprd,
and llirir hlnoily lu-ads wiTr (ruawril liy llir wullC.
W'r roiild Mill livr wliilr mir I'allirr's lodirrs wvrv.
ciiiplv anil tlir si ilps id' llirir iniirdrrors wrrr iinl
111 llir liiil,rrs III' Diir iiinlli'Ts. t )urlit-ails lold us to
niakr tliisr idlrridixs lo llir jrrral npiril wdio hid
fiislrrrd lliriii on llir iiionnlaiiis; and wlirii Ihr
iiioDU was ilowii and llir shulows ol ihr Whilr
Itntr wvtf as dark as llic Ilrir ol' a hrar, wi; said
to the <Jrrat .Spirit, ' .No man ran war with the
arrows rroiii llir ipiivrr of lliy Hlornis; no man's
word r.iii hr heard w lirii thy voirr is anion); the
i'IoiiiIh ; no iniin's hand is slioiiir wlini thy hand
lots liwsr its winds. 'I'hr wolI'Mrnawrd Ihr lirads
ol our lalhrrs miil tin- sralps of llirir innrdrrris
hanj; not in Ihr lodiri's of uiir luolhrrs. (iirat fa.
Ilirr spirit, sriid iiol Ihiiir ainxrr out ; hold in thy
liiuiil llir winds; Irl iiol thy irrral viiirr ihiiwii
tlir (k'atli yrll whilr wr hunt Ihr ninrilrrrrs of our
lathrrK.' [ and Ihr rivr otlirrs thru liuill in Ihr
niiddir of Ihr lodirr a lirr, and in its hritjiil lichl
Ihr (irrat .Spirit saw Ihrwanipiim and Ihr skins
and Ihc wliitr hnll'alo lililr. l''ivr days and niiihls
I and llir livr nllirrs danml and smokril Ihr Mcili-
ciii and lioiit tlir Ujard willi stirks and rhinntril
iiway till' powrr of llir [rrral rdiriii .Mini u that
they nii^xlit not hr ovil to us and liriiiif sirknrss into
our Ixim'H. 'I'lirn wlirii llir slurs wnr shlninsr in
the rlcar sky wr sworr, (I luusl iiol Irll wdial, lor
it was in tlir car of ihr (iirat Spirit,) mid wrnl
out of the lodirr willi our l)osi)m.-< full of miirrr
against llir innrdrrris ofonr fatlirrs, whosr, hours
WIMP in till' jaws of I Iit3 wolf ; and wrnl for llirir
scalps to hill!; thrill in llir liiil;;rs of our iiiollirrs."
Scr liiin strike thr aired trrc with his war rliib,
a(;ain, aj;ain, iiiiir tinirs. " .So iiiuiiy Cuinanclirs
did 1 slay, llir inurdrrs of my father, heforc the
moon wan round iii;ain and la" U|X)ii the eaHlrrn
plain." This is not merely an iinu){ined scene of
former timeB in J3uyou Sulado. All ihn ewtntiul
incidaati Klfttcd, huppviKii) y«arly u\ tk^l Art4

olhi r hnnliirr ^'roniids, win iirvir tlio old liravrii

assriiililed to la leliratr the valorous dmlH (if their

1 yiiuii);i'r days. When tlirsr rxnliiiK M'lalions

wirr linifihril, Ihr yoiiiii; iiirii of llie Irilw, who

' had not yet di»tiiii;uiNlii d IheniwIvrH, werr ex.

Iiorlid lo srrk L'lorv III a iniilar way. And won

' to liini who p.issrd lii^: luinh'iod » ilhout ornainent.

I 111'; Ihr door of Ilis |i)d;;e with the sealps of Iuh

' rnemirs.

I 'I'liis valli'v is slill firipiriilril hy soiilr id llirsn

Irilirs as a siiiiinirr haniil wlini ihr liril id the

plains rriidri's llinii iinrnmlorlalilr. 'I'lii l')iilawi

. Wrrr srouriii'.; il when WI- passrd, Wr Iherrforr

I rniNwil Ihr rivrr to ils iiorlhrrn lunk and followi d

up ilM norlhrni hrmirli riijlil iiiiirs, with rvrry eye

' kenily srareliiii:; for Ihr appr iranrr of furs; and

ni.idr our enranipnirnl for Ihr ni>rht in a dnp

' ill asm ovrrhiiiii; hv Ihr loiii; liranelirs of a i;rovi'

' of whilr pini s. \\r hiull our lirr in Ihr dry IkiI

ofa luoiiiilam lorrrnt, sliaili (I liy IhisIiih on llirsidr

Inward Ihr vallry, and alHivr, hy a dense iiia.^H

of Imiiirhs, mi rUrrlu.dly, as not only lo eoiieral

Ihr hla/.r from .my oiir in tlir vallry, liiil also to

pirvriit Ihr lelleel imi from i;uililiii:; loo lii(;li the

j eoiispienoiis fiiilii);e of Ihe nriirhlKirini; Irres. —

t .Ml mr horHis had frd tliniiselves we lied them

j e' our eoiielii s, that thry iiiit;ht Iiol, in ease.

I < ii'k, hr drivrii aw.iy helorr we had aii

' f y of (l( feiidiii'; lliriii, and wlirii we re.

i lirrii, thrrw wiiler upon our lire that il inii;lit not

; i;uiile the Indians ill a seaieh for us ; put new

j raps upon our anus, and Iriisliiii; to our doi; nnd

ninlr, Ihe latlrr in sin h rawH always Ihr most

skilful, lo scent their approarli, tried to sleep. —

Hut wr wrrr too iirar Ihe snows. Chilliiii; winds

; Slicked down Ihr, valr and drove us from our

hhiiikris to a sliiveriu;; watidi during Ihr remain.

der of Ihe night. Not a rap however, was hurst.

-Vlas for our hravc inleiituins, they ended in an

agile lit.

Our guide informed us that the Euluws reside
on IhiIIi sides of the liliitaw or Aiiahiiae ninuntansj
thai lliry arr eonlinually migrating from oiicsidi!
lo the oilier; thai lliey s[)eak Ihe Spanish lan-
guage; lliat some few half lireeds haveemhraecd
Ihr ( 'alholic failli ; that Ihr remainder yet hold
Ihe simple and siihlime faith of their forefathers,
in Ihe r.vistrncr of our great creating and sustain-
iiig caiisj, mingled with a helief in the ghoslly
visitrxlinns of thrir deerasrd .VIrdirin nien.or di.
: viners : that thry iinniln'r KIDtl fainilirs. He also
stated lliat Ihr Chiyrimes are a hand nf renega-
docs from Ihe. Kiitaws andCiimaneheH ; that they
are less hrave and more Ihirvish than any other
trihe living in the. plains south of .Vrkansas.
We started at 7 o'clock on the mnrning of the
I ^llli, traveled b miU'siii a north by west (lircclion,
: killed another hulValo und wild into camp to jerk
the meat. Again wr were among the frosts nnd
snows and storms of anntlier dividing ridge. t)iir
camp was on the height of land heteween the
waters of the I'latte and those of Grand River,
1 Ihe liirgrst Hoiithern hraneli of the C'olerado of
,; the West. From this eminence wc had a fine
1 view of IJoyou Salade, and also of the Anahnac
!i range, which wr had heforc seen from the ridge
!i between the Arkansas and the southern waters of
J the Platte. 160 miles lo the Bouth east towered
;i tlie bald liead of Jumcs Peak, to iho cunt KH)
;{ milvii iltnttiut, w«r« tha brolr.cn uitd frownini; olitfi

in the Rocky Mountaint, the Oregon Territory, ifc.

thrnuKh wliicli t]i<^ Wmth Tcrk i>r tlir Pliiltp, nftcr
havii>K (rntliiTKil nil iIh tiiouiituin trihiitnrii'H, lor.
ro* iti rnnrini;, (■ai*i,'udr coiirw to tin: plains. To
till! iiortli, the low, tiiiilxTiyl 1111(1 KrniwyhillH, Hoiiir
li|>|M-<l with Hiiow iind olIicTM crowned with tol'ty
puiiti, r.uli'd into u miiooth, dim and ri'Kiilur lion-
vm.

CIIAl'TLU V.

An Aicent— A Miilcrtunc— A D.'illi— Ttic MiiuaUiu o( the
llbiT ('r<M«— Lmpiiie Pinra— Killini; « BuAtli>— Aaw* itn't
Tyranu— i'anllirr, Co. — ()«n(r«nliy— HomiMliinr «l)OUl
Dckcpn'liiii' <hi Cnl<truil<t dI (lie Wfnt— Divuiioif KIiIki^k—
A Sc«n)>— Tunili rUHU l'«rk— A Wnr WUiiop— Mffliiiu nl
Oil) ITrllciw i'rippi-rii— A Ndtalilf Tr.iinp— My Marr—
The KiKiortleol Uir Muuiiulni— Kelly '■ nlj Camp, Ur
—A Urrut Heart- Liule Bear Illwr— Vvifl'lil'i and
Hitterii-14-Tw'i Willie Men a Hquaw and Ohilil— A
Deail nhm— What It Tadelul— Trappini;— HUrkrool ami
Hlou«— A Blmirty Inciileiit— A Ca»e— Hdl Mprinr— The
(Ujuntry~A Hurprme - Aiuerii*aii and ('nnailiau Trappers
The eirand Itirer— Old Para — Ueiili Befiiie q»— $!■ u—
Oetpalr-Bear Hum— Sulphur Puddia— The Hi»er—
Wiif»et and Ihelr Kare— Dti< Katiiii;— 1. ti|> Naake Kiver
-Tulmi— U"iertii_Mnunt«iiii— Muuu>aln Hmientou—
Browii'a Mule— Kort l>avhi Cmckeil— Vil^ndiliip — "tub
lime and Beiiuiiiul— Trail Winierandiu llllariiii'k—
l<o»e— The way in if.'t i W|l«— A Reaiiiiimendaiinn to
(^iffilii>*d PniiplH--T*ie Cntiiradu (if the Wati — riah in.
dlan» — Tlie HMoiihnnle^— An Indian Teiiiperanre N<ict«iy
—The Cr.iwt-Tae Hlickleel-700 •4lielei..».— Tlie Arra.
pahnei, aa4 Oliiianihip aninn); ihein— War Pariie>—
l/>di;c ni the Great H >irii -Itelii^laua Cerrinimiej — The
VowiiiidaM Incident— The tint Staoahunie who mw a
White Man.

The ascent to thiH higlit wits not kr laburiotig
as tliP onfi near the .Vrkiinwia. It lay ii|i the fuee
of n niountniii timt Ibrnied ;i liirger iiiigle with
pinne of the horizon than did the other. But it
waa clothed with a dense forcHt of pines, h species
of double leaved hemlock, and spruce and fir
trees, which prevented our animals from fallinij
over the precipieen, and enabled us to make loni;
sweeps in a zigingf course Uiat inucli relieved the
fatigue of the ascent. We however met hero a
misfortune of a more serious n;tture to us, than
tlic Htonn that pelted us on the other ridge. One
of the horRcH belonging; to our puidc sickened just
before arriviiij; at the summit and refusing to
bear farther the burden which ho iiad theretofore
borne with case and apparent pride, sunk under it.
We roused him — he rose upon his legs and made
a wilUng attempt to do liis duty — but the ))oor
animal failed in liis generous effort. We f bereforo
took off his pack, put it upon luy saddle horse,
and drove him lieforc us to the sunmiit, from
whence we, enjoyed the Iteautil'ul prospect I have
juit described. But we felt little interest in the
expanse of sublimity before us ; olir eyos and
■yinpatliiofi too, were turned to the noble nniinal
which was now suffering great pain. He had
Wen reared in the niountains ; and it seemed to
be his highest pleasure to tread along tlieir
giddy brinks. Every morning at his post, with
the other horse Iwlonging to his master, he would
ktand without lieing fastened and receive his bur-
den ; and with every demonstration of willing-
ness, bear it over the mountaijis and through tor.
rents till his task wait ended in the night citcani|)-
inent. Such a horse in the desolate regions we
were traversing, the bearer of our wearing apparel
and food, the leader of our band of animals, the
property of our k id old Kcntiickian, the one-
third of all his worldly estat- waa no mean ob.

jcct of interest. After noticing him awltiln, w«
|N'reeivcd syniptoiiis of his Uiing iKiinoned, ad-
ministered whatever mediciiicH we [KMWvuHt'd iiiilcd
to the case, and let\ liiiii to his fate for the night.
Kaiii during the day, frost during the night ; icA
in our camp kettU'S an inch in Ihicknciw.

Wu were out early on the moniingof the2,5tli,
and found our guide's liorst- living. VN e arcording.
ly Hitddled, jiacked and started liowii the valley of
a linall head stream of (irand Kiver. The sick
honv! was driven slowly along for alsiiil five milcii
when he refused to go fartlier. It now became
evident that he had Ix'cn eating the wild pars,
nips at our last eni'ampment on the other bide of
lh(^ ndge. That he must (Uc iMu'aine, therefore,
certain, and we unpacked to see the breath from
his lK)dy lieforc he sho'.ild Ijc left to the inercilews
wolves, lie died near daylight down, and as thu
patli liefore us was rough and bushy, we concluded
to remain on the s|Kit for the night. Our anxiety
for the life of this excellent aniniid had well nigli
led us to pass uiiol>s(;rved one of the most singular
eiirtioHities in nature — a erossof erystalized quartz
in the eastern face of a conical motuitain !

There were, on the western side of the stream
which we were following down, a (uilleetion of
biites or conical |>eaks clustered around one, whose
top was somewhat in the fonn of the gable end of
an auciciit church. This cluster was flanked on
each side by vast rolls or swells of earth and rouk,
which rose so high as to l>o capped with snow. In
the distance to the West, were seen through the
openings between the hutes, a nirniWr of spiral
peaks tiiat imagination could have said formed
the western front of a vast holy edifice of the eter.
nal hills. On the eastern face of the gable bute
there were two transverse scams of what appeared
to be erystalized qu irtz. The upright was about
GO feet m length ; the cross scam about 20 feet,
thrown athwart the upright near its top and \ying
parallel to the plane of the horizon. I viewed it be
the sun rose over the eastern moimtains and fell
upon the glittering crystals of this emblem of the
i$aviour°s suffering ; built with the foundations and
treasured in the bosom of these granite solitude*.
A cross in a church, however fallen we may sup.
pose it to be from the original purity of wor»hip,
excites, as it should, in the minds of all reasonablo
men, a sacred awe arising from the remembrance
of the scene in Judea which spread darkness like
the night over the earth and the sun. But how
much more impressive was this cross of living
rock — on the temple of nature where priest ne\'er
trod ; the symbol of redeeming love, engraven
when Eden was unscathed with sin, by God's own
hand on the brow of his everlasting mountains, —
The trappers have reverently named this peak the
" Moimtain of the Holy Cross." It is about 500
feet in hight above the level of the little brook,
which runs a few rods from its base. The upper
end of the cross is adout 100 feet below the sum-
mit. There are many dark aud stately groves of
pine and balsam fir in the vicinity. About the
brooks grow the black alder and the laurel ; tha
honeysuckle and a great variety of wild flowers
adoni the crevices of the rocks. The virgin snows
of ages wliiten the lofty sumn'its around; th«
voice of the low murmiuing rivulets trembles in
the sacred silence : " O soUtude, thou art here,"
tlie lip moves to speak. " Fray, kneel, adore," on«

Travels in the Cheat Western Prairies,

Bcems to hear softly breathed in every breeze. „ It
i» holy ground. '

2Ctli. On march at 6 o'clock and traveled down
the small strear.i which had accompanied us on
the 24th and 25th. As we advanced the vallies
opened, and the trees, pine, ftir, white oak, cotton
wood, quukinjrasp, &c. became larger and taller.
The wild flowers and jrrass became more luxuri-
ant. As we were on an Indian trail, our course
Was as nearly a right line as the eye of that race
could trace ai.iong the lower hills. Hence wo
often left the stream and crossed the woody
swells ; not hilis ; not mountains ; l)ut vast kwoII.
ing iracts of land that rise among tliese vales like
half-buried spheres, on whicli, frequently for miles
about us, pine and fir trees of the largest size had
been prostrated by the winds. To leap our ani-
mals over these, and among them, and into them,
and out of them, and still among them, flounder,
ing, tearing packs and riders — runjiing against
knots and tumbling upon N]ilintery stubs and
rocks, were among the amusements of getting
througli 'hem. The groves of small quaking.isp,
too, having been killed by the elk, in some places,
had fallen across our track so thickly that it Ix'.
came necessary to raise yie foot over one at al.
most every step. Here my Puebhi mare performed
mrny a feat of " high and lofty tumbling." She
could leap the large pines, one at a time, with
satisfaction to lierself; that was wortliy of lier
blood. But tu I tep, merely step, over one small
tree and then over another, seemed to be too muili
condeHCeiision. Accordingly she t<)f>k a firm uu.
alterable stand upon her rcnerveil rights, from
which njither ptdling nor whipping seemed iikciv
to move her. At length she yielded, as great mrn
Hometimes do. her owi. opinion of '.■onstitutiunid
duty to the will of the people, and Uai>ed amoiiii
them with a desperation that ought to have an.
nihilatcd a square mile of such obstacles. But
instead thereof, slie turned a summerset into about
the same quantity of them, and there lay "alone
in her glory," till she was tumbled out and set u|)
again. i

The valley during the dey's journey had aj). i
peared five miles in width. On its lK)rders huiiir
dark mountains of rork, some of wliieh. lying
weslwiird, were tipped with shining iee. Far be-
yond these aj)peareil the Analiuae lidge. .Snow
m the south w.is yet in sight — none seen in the
east and north. The valley ilsi U was nuu.li
broken, with minor roeky declivities, bursting up
between the "swells," and with fields of large
loose Bloni'S laid bare by the torrents. 'I'lie bul.
falo were seen grazing in siuidl detached herds
on the slopes of the mountains near the lower
line of snow, those grein fields of Ihe skies. —
Many "elk signs," treks, &e. were met; but
none of these animals w ere seen. Our guide in- '
formed me that the habit ol them is to "follow!
the snow." In other words, that as the snow in
Bummer melts away from Ihe lowlands, lliey foli
low its retiring banks into the mountains. And
when it begins in autumn to descend again, they
descend with it, and pass the winter in Ihe val-
ley. He also accounted for the absence of the;
male deer in a similar way ; and added that the
do"B, when they bring forth their yoimg, forsake
their male compunionB until the kids are four or
five months old ; and this for ttiu reason that the

unnatural male is disposf 1 to destroy his ofTspring
I during the ])criod of its helplessness. Some rain
I fell to.day.

j 27th. Wc commenced our march this morning

I at 6 o'clock, traveled as our custom usually was,

Ij tdl the liour of 11, and then halted to breakfast ,

,| on the bank of the streaui. The face of the

;| country along the morning's trail was much the

ii same as that passed over the day iH^fore ; often

: be.u liful but ofteuer sublime. Vast sphirical svcHs

1 covered witli bufiido, and wild flowering glen.s

M echoing the voi.;es of a thousand cascades, and

,: coimtlesg nund)ers of lofty peaks crowding the

:| sky, will give perhaps a Tamt idea of it. As the

I stream that we had been following bore to the

westward of our course, wc in the afternoon

struck across a range of low hills to anol'ie--

I branch of it that came down fro.ni thi' eastirn

/' mountains, and encamped n\mn its biinks. Tlu s(^

: hills wc!re composed of hard gravel, ciyered with

; two or three inches of black loaii.. In the deep

I vales the mountain torrents had swcj t away the

'■ soil and left the strata bare for miles along their

I courses. The mountain flax and the large thistU^

' flourished everywhere- The timber wa ; flic same

]t in kind as we had passed the three last days.

' The groves were principally coi.i'ned i.o the lower

portions of the ravines whieli s'--, pt down from

Ihe snowy bights. The A!»ahoiic range in the

] west appeared to dip 'l.eper in the horizon, and

recede i'arlher Inim us. ( ''le half only of its alti-

tiide as seen tmiii the (i, iding ridges was now

visible. We were doubtU a lessening our own

altitude m:iterially. but the dilference in the up.

liareiit liiirht of this ridge was in part [irodiiced

liy its increased distance. It had evidently begun

to tend rapidly towards the f'acific.

An agi'd knight of the order of horns strode iieross
our path near 1 o'clock, and by hisi)rineely lic;iriiig
invited our old trapper to a tilt. His Kentucky
blood could nut be eh.dlenged with impunity. He
! dropped upon one knee — drew a close sight —
clove the bull's lieart in twain and s( lit him groan-
ing upon the sand. He was very poor, but as we
I had riMson to tear that we were leaving the Imf-
faln " beat," it was deemed iirudent to increase
Ihe weight of our packs with the better portion of
his flesh. Aceiirdingly the tongue, heart, leaf fat
I and the " fleece " were taken, and were Ix iii^T
lashed M|«jn our mule, when an attack of liillidus
lir.-iveiy seized our giunt in the extri niities, ami
he began to kick .■iiid be;it his horse for presimi-
in:r to stand on lour leet, or sonic finiilar act,
witfiout his permission, in such gallant style, that
our mule on which Hie meal was placed leaped
I artVightcd from us and droppiil it on the sand.
I Wc were all exiremdy vexed at this, and I be.
i lievc made some disparaging comparisons be-
I tween the intellects of asses and tyrants. Whctlar
I lur mule or .^mith felt most aggrieved thereby
! we wire never inlbrmed. Hut the matter was
j very pleasaiitly disposed of by our benevolent old
! guide. He luined thi' moat with his foot and
kicked it good naturcdly from him, and said in
his hiandist manner, '• iSo dirt in the moiuiting
but sand — the te( lb can't go that ; " anil mounted
his horse for the march, we traveled 2U miles
and encamped.

28th. 18 miles down the small valleys between
the slinrp and rugged hills ; crossed a number of

in the Roclcy Mountains, the Oregon Territory, dj-r.

small streams runiiiiis westward. The moun-
tains nlons our \v:\y ililTrred in rhnructrr from
any wo liiul lierrlol'ore passed. Some, of tli'-in
were composed entirely of earth, and semi .'lipti-
cal in form ; nlliers endjraced tlionsaiids of aeres
of wh.it seemed to he mere elevations of fine
brown pravel, rising swell ahovi! swell and sweep.
iufT away to tlie hijrlit of 201)0 feel ; destitute of
timber save a few slender strips which frrew alon^r
the rills that triekled at long intervals down their
sides. We eneamped a^'ain on the hank of the
main stream. It was 1(11) yards in width ; water
1 i feet deep, current (i miles the lionr.

diJth. To-day we struek (Irand River, (the
[treat southern braneli of thi^ Colorado of the
Wrsl,) 20 miles from our Inst ni(;ht"s encamp,
ment. Ft is lierr 300 yards wide, eiirri'nt (I miles
the hour; water from (i to lOfict in depth —
transparent, hut lik(? the utmosph j of nui'di
liigher temperature than we had met wUli since
leaving the Arkansas. The vallies th.it lie iipon
this stream and some of its tributaries, are called
by the Imnters "'I'heOld I'ark" If the quah-
fyini( term were omitted, they would be well d.-
seribed by their name. M.xtensive meadows run-
ninpr up the v.illevs of the streims, woodlands
skirling the mouutain bases anil dividiu'.' the
plains, over which the antelope, bliek and white
taih'd deir, the IOiij;lisli hare, the big horn oi-
mountain slice]), the griv'y, grey, ri'd and black
bears, and thebutl'alo and elk, r.uige, — a splendid
Park iniieeil ; not old, but new as in the tirst
fresh morning of the creation. Here also are
found the prairie an<l the large grcv wolf, the
American jianthcr, beaver, pole cat, and land ot-
ter. The grisly bear is the largest and most fcro.
r'ous — with hair f a dirt}- brown color, sparsely
mi.ved with those of a yellowish white. The
males not unfre<pienlly weigh ;") or II hundred
pounds. The grey bear is less in size, hair nearlv
black, interspersed along the shoulocrs and hips
with white. The red is still less, s.ay the tra|)pcrs,
an<l of the e»>lor indicated liy the ii ime. 'J"he
black bear is the same in all rcspecis as ili.').--c in.
habiting the States. 'I'he prairie <log is also IoiukI
here, a singular animal parh;dly dL:cril)ed in a
previous page ; but as they niav be lietir' known
from liieutcuint Pike's disenplion of them, 1
shall here introduce it. " 'I'iiev live in towns and
villages, having .an r\'' ''it police established in
their eonnuunitics. 'l"l • sites of these towns are
generally on the br n. of a hill, near some creek
or pond, ill order t' oe convenient to water and
to be e.\emjit Ironi iinnulatlon. Their resilience
is in burrows, which descend in a spiral lorm."
The Lieutenant caused 1 10 ketlles of water to he
poured into one of tlieir IioIc.h iii order to drive
out the occupant, but failed. " Thev ii< ver travel
more than iialf a mile from tlieir homes, and
readily associate with rattle snak s. They arc of
a dark brown color, e.vccpt their bellies, which
are red. They are something larger than a grcv
squirrel, and very fat ; siippcwed to be graminivo-
rous. Tlieir villages sometimi's e.\lciii'. over t«o
or three miles square, in which then' must be in-
numerable hosts of thei.i, as tliere is generallv a
burrow every ten steps. \s you approach the ir
to'vne, you arc saluted m all sides by the cry ot
" v iaiiloiiu'ish," uttered in a shrill piercing man-
nur." Tlie birds of these regions arc tlic spurrow, |

hawk, the Jiiekilaw, a species of grouse, of the
size of the I'.nglisb grouse ; color brown, a tufted
bead, and limbs feathered to the feet ; the raven,
very fM;;e, turkey, turkey-bnzzards, geese, all the
varieties of ducks known in sneli latitudes, the
bald and grey eagle, mctidow l.irk and robin red
breast. (.)f reptiles, the small striped lizard, horned
frog and garter snake, are the most common.
Uattli' snakes arc said to be found among the
(■litis, but I saw none.

\\'c forded (Jrand River, and encamped in the
willows on the uorlhcrn shore. The mountains
ill the west, on which the snow was lying, were
still in sight. The view to Ihe e ist and south
w.is shut in by the neighboring hills ; to Ihe north
and north-east, it was o|)eii, and in the distance
ajipeared the Wind River and other mountains, in
till' vicinity of the ' threat (iap.' During the eve-
ning, while the men were angling for trout, Kellv
give me some account of (Jr.iiid River and the
Colorado of the West, (iraiid River, he Hiid, is
a briinch of the Colorado, it rises far in the cast
among the pn ci|)itous liights of the eastern range
of the Rock^' .Mountains, about midw.iy from thc>
(ireat (Jap and the Keiiyon ol' the .'■Miuth Kork of
theT'lalte. It interlocks the distance of 111) miles
with the walers of Ihe (In at I'latte ; its course
to llie |)oint where we enisscd, is nearly due west.
I'rom thence it eouliimes in a west hy mirth coiirse
lliO miles, where it breaks through the Anahiia-,
Ridge. The elills of this Ki nyon are said lo Iv
many hundred I'eet high, and overlianging; williin
them is a series of cascades, which roar like
Niagara when the river is swollen bv Ihe freshets
in .lime. Alter jiassing this K'enyon. it is said to
move with a dashing, loaming cnrrcnl in a west-
erly direclion TiO mill s. where it unites with Green
River, or .'^licetskadee. and forms the Colorado of
Ihe West, i'rom the junction of these branches
the Colorado has a general eonrse from the north-
east to the south-west, of TOO ■"•''■s lo the head of
the (Jull of Calilornia. Kour nnndred of this 700
miles is an almost imbroken chasm of kenyon —
with perpciuiiciilar sides Imndicdsof feel in liigbt,
at the iKittoni of which the waters rush over con-
limioiis cascades. This kenvon terminales .10
miles above the (iiilf. To this jxiini the river is
navigable. The country on each side ol its whole
course is a rolling desert of brown Ioobc earth, on
which the rains and dews never fall.

-\ few years since, two Catholic ^lissionariesand
their servants, on their way from the mountains !o
Caliiornia. atteni])ted lo desee:id Ihe Color,- i_. >.
They have never been seen since Ihe morning lliev
eomnienced their fatal undertaking. A party of
iLijipcrs and others made a strong boat and manned
it well, with Ihe di Icrminalion ot tloaling down the
river to laki the beaver that they supposed lived
along its banks. IJut tiny found themselves in
such d.inger alter entering the kenyon. that with
might anil main they thrust their trembling boat
ashore and sueeecded in leajiing upon the crags
and lightening it helore it was swallowed in the
dashing torrent. Jiul the dealli which they had
eseajicd in the stream, still tbrcalened them on
the crags. I'cqieiidicniar and overhanging rocks
frowned above them ; these they could not ascend ;
they could not cross the river; they could not as-
ceiid the river, and the I6:unmg cascades below
furUadu the thought of coianutting thcmsclvca

Pavels in the (^reat Weitem Prairies,

Bjrain to tlirir lioat. Nicht cnnie on, and flic
(lifficiill y of kpopinji Ihoir l)oat lioiii Ixiiicf biokrn
to pit'ccs on tlu' rocks, inrroascd tlio anxiotirs of
tluir situation. Tliej' must have |)asscd a liorri.
ble night, — so full of fearful cxpcctalions, of Ihf
rrrtainty of Btarvation on the rrags, or drowniu;;
in the Ptrrani. In the iiioniinij, however, they
examined the roeks a^aiM, and I'ound a small pro.
jeeting crap, some 2(1 feet aliove Ihem, over which,
after many eflbrlH, they threw their small hoat-rope
and drew the noose tau^rht. One of the nuniher
then climlx'd to explori'. lie found a p'atform
above the crag, of sullieirnt size to contain his six
companions, and a narrow chasm in the over-
hanging wall, through which it appeared possible
to pass to the upper surface. Having all reached
the platform, they indooscd their lassoo, and,
bracing themselves as well as they could, with
their rilles in the moving, dry earth benealh tlii'ir
feet, Ihc)' undertook the iisccut. It was so sleep
that thev were ofUii in danger of being plunged
togetiier in the abyss bclriw. Hut by digging
steps in the rocks, where tliey could be dug with
their rifle-barrels, and by making use of their
lassf)0 where it could be used, they reached the
upper surface near simsil, anii made their way
back to the place of depart\ire. The .above is a
mnnntaiii-legend, interesting indeed, but

" I cannot Icll lin*' tlip Irulli mny I)p,
J tell till' talc an 't wa-. loKl to nie."

At day-light, on the 'fOlii, oiu' cavalcade was
moving across the woody ridges and verdant val-
leys between the crossings of (irand River anil its
great north fork. \Vi' struck that stream alxjut
JO o'clock. Its water was beautil'ully clear, —
average depth 'J feet, and current 4 miles the
hour. It is said to take its rise in the moimtains,
near the south side of the '(Ircat 0;ip,' and to
flow, in a soulb-westerly course, through a country
td' broken and barren plains, into (Jraiul River, i2d
miles lielow the crossings. We ascended rapidly
all the day. 'I'here was no tiiil to guide ns ; but
our worthy guide knew every moimtain-top in
Bight. Itee lines through immens'- fields of wild
Hage and wormwood, and over gravelly plains — a
short halt for a short breakfast — a constant spur-
ring, and trotting, and driving, deposited tis at
sunset at the loot of a lofty inoimtain, clothed
with heavy timber. It was the dividing ridgi
bclween the waters of (irand and (Jreen Rivers.
\\'e must crops it. We therefore turned out the
animals to feed — ate a scanty morsel of dried
meat, and went to our couches, for the strength
re<|\iisite for the task. .\l)out the middle of the
night the panthers on the mountain gave ns a
spccinion of their growling capacities. It was a
liideouB noise : lUrp and broken by the most im.
earthly Bcreamsl They were gathering for prey;
for our horses and ourst Ives. We drove up the
animals, however, tied them near the camp, built
II large ami bright (ire, and slept till daylight.

At simrise, on the inorning of the ,'tlsl, we stood
on thcBuniniitof Ihemounlain, at the base of which
we had slept the previous night. It was the very
place from which I wished to view the outline (if
the valley of (irand River, and the snoWy ridge of
the Analiuac. And it was as favorable an hour
for my piiriHise -.s I eoidd have seleeteil from the
whole day. Thu biut liad just risen over the eoBtem

bights, sufficiently to give the valley of the Grand
Uiver to the south-east of me, those strong con-
trasts of light and shade which painters know bo
well how to i;se when sketching a mountain,
scene at early morning, or wlien the Bim is half
hiildcn at night. The peaks were bright, the,
deep shadows sprang <dl" from the western sides,
above faintly, and deeixning as they dcBcended to
the bases, \yhere the <leep brown of the roeks and
earth gave the vales the semblance of uudisturiM d
night. The depression of the valley, as I have
termed it, was in truth a depression of a vast tract
of mountains ; nol unto a plain or vale ; but a great
ravine of bules and ridgi'S, decreasing in bight from
the limitof vision in Ihe north-east, eastand south—
and falling one below another toward the stream,
into Ihe diniimitivc bluflfi on its banks. The val-
ley below the crossing was less distinctly seen. Its
general course only could be dislinguished among
the bare hills upon its borders. Rut Ihe grt^at main
chain, or Aualuiae range, came sweeping up from
the -Arkansas more sublime, if possible, in its aspcci
than will Ti viewed from Ihe bights farther south.
It was aliout 100 miles dislant, the length of the
section in view about Hill ; not a speck on all ils
vast outline. It did nol show as glaciers do; but
like a drift of newly-falk ii snow heaped (/ii moun-
tains — by some mighty eni)rlsof the elements ; piled
from age to age ; and from day to day widening and
highlening ils untold diineusiims. Its \yi(llh, ils
bight, its cubic milis, its mass of rock, of earth, of
snow, of ice, of waters ascending in clouds to
shower the lowl.inds or renew its own robes of
frosts, of waters sent rushing to the seas, are some
of the vast ilenis of this sublimity of existence.
The light of the rising sun falling upon it through
the reniarkably trans])arent atmosphere of these re-
gions, madi' Ihe view exceedingly distinct. The
inlerveuing space was thickly tlottcti with lesser
peaks, which, in the lengthened distance, melted
into an apparent plain. Itiit the elevation of the
great .Vnahuac ridge, iircsenting its broad, while
side to Ihe morning light in that dry, clear, upper
air, seemed as dislinctly se< n as the tree at my
side. An immensity leaning on the vault of
heaven ! In the north-west it manifestly trended
toward the north did of the Great Salt Lake.
Hut I must leave this absorbing scene for the
journey of the ilay. The asci nt of the dividing
ridge, from which I look this extensive survey of all
this vast, iinknown,iinexplored portion of the moim-
tains, was comparatively easy. We threaded, in.
deed, some half-dozen |)reci|)ices in going up, within
an inch of graves TiOO feet deep. Yet, as none of
us lost our brains on the rocks below, these nar-
row and slippery jialbs caimot be remembered in
connection with incidents either remarkable or sad.
With this notice of mountain tunipikes, I will
lie obliged to my readers to step along with me
over the Inild smmnit and look at the descent,
yes, the drurfiil, my friends. It is ii lH>ld one :
one of the men saicf " four miles of perpendicu-
lar ;" and so it was. Or if it was not. it ought
to have been, for many very good reasons of
mathematical propriely that "are as ditficult to
write us to eomprelicnd. It was partially
covered with bushes and t.ecB, and a soft vegeta-
ble mould that yielded to our horses" Itet, but we, by
dint of holding, bracing, and sliding, arrived safe,
ly at the bottom, and joggcU on merrily lix or

in the RocJcy Mountains, the Oregon Territory, S^r.

KCvcn miles over barren rirfircs, rich plains, nnd
woody hills to the head of 'riiinlilcton park. Wc
had turned out our animals to rat, hung our
camp-kettle over the fire to Iwil some hits of (jris-
ly meat tliat we had found anionfr the ruhl)ish of
our packs, and wero resting our wearied frames
in the shade of the willows, conversiiiaf about the
tracks which wc had seen five miles back ; one
BUi)poBiii;r that they were made by Indians, the
Arrapuhoes or the IShoshonieH, while our old jjnidc
insisted that they were mai'o by while men's hor-
ses ; and assigned as a reason for this opinion,
that no Indians could be traveling in that direc-
tion, and that one of the horses had shoes on its
fore feet ; when tlic Arrai)ahoe war-whoop and
tlio clattering of liooft U|wn the side hill alwne,
brought us to our feet, rifle in liand, for a conflict.
Kelley swmed for a moment be in doubt !.s to his
own coneluHions relative to the tracks, and as to
the color of those unceremonious visiters. Hut as
they dashed up, he leaped tlie brook, and seized
the hands of three old fellow-trappers. It was a
joyful meeting. They hail often stood side by
side ,1 battle; and among the solemn mountains
dug the lonely grave of some slaughtered com-
panion ; and together sent the avenging lead into
the hearts of the Hlackfeet. 'I'Ik y were more
than brothers, and so they met. \\\: shared with
them our last scraps of nu'at.

They ijiformed \ib that they had fallen in with
our trail, and followed us umler a Ixlicf that we
were certain friends whom they were ex|>ecting
from St. Louis with goods Im llir post at Hrown's
Hole ; that the Arrapahocs uin> lain iiuig on l.ii).
falo in the Bull Pen. on the north fork of the
Platte ; (hat the Imiiiesor Snakes were starv-

ing on roots on ( Hear River ; that the Blaek-

fc"' and Sioux wir. ni the iieighliorhiMiil ; that
there was no game m the iiiountaiiii t xeipt on
the head-waters of Snake Kiver; ;i!i.| that them,
selves were a [jortion of a parly •■ >iliile men, In-
dians, and squaws, on their way to B' iifs Fort
(m the Arkansas, to meet Mr. Thomps'i, uilh the
goodf iK'fore named ; that we might reasou:ibly
anticipate starvation and the arrows oftheSiou.x.
nnd other kindred comforts along our journey to
Brown's Hole. Air. Craig, tbe cliiel ol the party,
and i)art ownier with Mr. Thompson, assured iV*
that the grass on the ( 'oluiuhia was already dr\
and scarce ; and if there should prove to be ciiougli
to sustain our horses on the way down, that the
snows on the Blue Mountains would prevent us
from reaching Vancouver Idl the .spring, uiul
kindly invited us to j)ass the wuiter at bis Post.
After two hours' tarry with us he and his party
returned to their cain|(.

Tuinbletoirn I'ark is a beautiful savannah,
Htrelching norllnveslerly from our camp in an ir-
regular manner aiiiong groves of pine, spruce, fir,
and oak. Three bundri'd yards from us rose
Tumblcton's Koek, one of those singular spir<'s
found in the valley of the mountains, called
Uutes. It was alniut HI) feet in bight, iii) in di-
ameter at the Ikisc. and terminatiMl at the toj) in
a pohit. Soon after our new ae()uaintaui'es ha<l
left us, we " caught up" .and struck across the
hills in a north-easlerly course toward ibe north
fork of Little Hear River. 'I'he traveling was
very rough, now among fields of loose stones and
bittUca, und now among Uenec I'orcBtH ; no truU to

aid us in finding the way ; new ground even to
our guide. But he was infallible. Two hours'
riding had brought us upon an Indian trail th.at
he had heard of ten years before ; and on we rushed,
reader, among the fallen pines, two feet, three
feet in diameter, raised, as you see. one foot, two
feet from the ground. The horses and mules are
testing their leaping powers. Over they go, nnd
tip ofF riders and packs, A,c., &,c. A merry tinu)
this. There goes my Puebla mare, bead, heels,
and neck, into an acre of cravy logs. Ho, halt !
Puebla's down, mortally wounib'd \vith w.mt of
strength I She 's unpacked, and out in a trico ;
we move again. Ho I whistle that mule into the
track! he'll be ofT that ledge there. Move them
on I move I cut down that sapling by the low part
of that fallen tree ! drive over Puebla ! Thcro
she goes ! long legs a benefit in bestriding forests.
Hold ! hold ! hold I that paek-horsc yonder has
anchored upon a pine ! Dismount ! back her out I
she has hung one side of herself and pack upon
that knot I away I ho ! But silence ! a deer
si)i"ing8 up in yonder thicket I Kelly creeps forward
—halt! hush! Iiii— ! Ah! tbe varlet! he is
gone ; a murrain on his fat loins ! a poor sui)per
we 'II have to-night ! no meat left, reader, not a
particle ; nor eolTee, tea, nor salt ! custom of socie-
ty here to starve ! suppose you will conform !
.Stay, here "s trouble! but they move I one goes
down well ! another, another, and another ! .My
PiK'bla mare, reader, that si.x foot frame standing
there, hesitating lo desi-end that narrow track
around the precipice! she goes over it! bravely
done ! A ten feet Iea|) ! and pack and all stuck
in the mud. That mule, uls<i, is down in tho
(luagmin- ! a lift at the pack there, man I the ae.
tive, tireless creature ! he 's up and oil'. (Jiiide,
this forest is . mill > ! sha' n't get out to-night. But
here we go nrr I y onward ! It is dark eu' igli
lor the lro;;~ "f Kgypt ! Halt I halt I ho I I'uc.
hie down again — laid out among th>' logs ! Pull
.aw I upon that pack there, man 1 In l|> tbe sinner
to hi I teet again lor aiiolber attempt to kill herself,
lii'autilul pirns, tirs, and bemlocks. 'luse. reader;
but a sa-1 '<i hurrieanis has In en let lfH)B(!
among iIki . U'li lung siiu'c. The prostrate shiii-
;lc timber, "h ' 'I would cover a ro(jf over the city
il London ; and make a railroad to run the.
Thames into Holland. H.ilt ! halt! unpack!
we e:niip hi re lo-nigbt. .\ litlle prairie Ibis, eiii-
biisomiil, nesUi'd. ktc, among the swert evergreen
wiK)dlanils. \\ ait a little now, reader, till we
turn In ■• animals loose to feed, aiul we "11 strike
UM n- when withal to dry your wet garments,
.iisperst^ a portion of Ibis darkness. It is dif-
ii'iill kindling this wil bark. Jnsepli, sing a
song! titiil a hollow tree! get some dry leaves !
Thai horse is making into the forest ' better
tie him to a bough ! That 's it; .losepli ! that's a
yoillhful bla/e I give it slii'iiglli ! fied it oxygen !
it grows ! Now for our guest. Seat yourself, sir,
on that log ! rather damp eniufort ! the best we
have I homespun fare! the ton of the eountry !
We're in the iiriineval stale, sir, where the wjul
goes back to its elemeiit-ary impulses — to the re-
pos<' of tirst priiieiples. We regret our inability
lo furnish you food, sir. But as we have not. for
the la.st lew days, indulged much in that merely
animal gralillcation, we beg you, sir, to aceom.
niodato yuuriulf with a disli of xransccndeiUal-

ism ; and wltli us nwait palionlly a liroilcd steak, I
a lew days aloinj ilic track of time to conic. j,

It was 1(1 o'clock at niglit wlicn wc arrived at :
this cnnanipniont. It had been raining in tor. \,
rents ever since nij,rlit.lall. The rippiinfr of a j,
small stream had fiuided us after the darkness I
shut in. Drenched with rain, shivering with ,
cold, destitute of lijo<l, aiul with the appetite of
wolves, we availed oursi Ives of the only comforts ij
within our reach — a cheering pinc-knot lire, and
such slee]) as wc could gel under the open hea-
vens in a pelting slorni. The general face of the '
country through which the afternoon's travel had
carried us, was much broken ; hut the incquali-
licH or hills and valley", to n very considerahleex- (;
lent, were covered with a rich vegetable loam, '\
supporting a heavy growth of pine, spruce, (jua. li
king-asp, vVc. The gliiden that iutervened were
more beautiful than I had seen. i\I any were cov- ['
ercd with a heavy growth of timothy or herds
grass, and red to|> in blos.'^om. Large tracts in i;
the skirts of the tindjcr were thickly set with
.^weet-sicily. The mountain tiax, was very abun-
dant- I had previously seen it in small patches
only ; but here it covered acres as densely as it
\isually stands in liilds, and presented the beauti-
ful sheet of blue blossoms so grateful to the lords
of the plough. I had noticed some days previous,
a few blades of the grasses just named, standing
in a clump of bushes; but we were riding rapidly,
and coidd not slop to examine them and I was
disposcd^o think that my sight had deceived me. ,
What ! the tame grasses of Kuro|)e, all that are j
valuable for stock, the best and most sought by >j
every intelligent farmer in Christciulom ; these ;
indigenous to '.!ic vales of the Uocky mountains .' .
It was even so.

August 1st. As oiu' horses had found little to
eat during the pa.st night, and seemed nmeh worn
by the exceeding fatigues of the previous day, we.
at early dawn, drew them around our camp, loaded
the strongest of ihcJU with our packs, and led and
<lrove the poor animals tlirongli thr< c miles more
of standing and fallen lind>er, to tin opening
on Little Bear River, and turned them loose to
feed upon the first good grass that we l'o\nnl. It
chanced to be in one of Kelly's old ini'ampmenls ;
where he had, some years before, I'ortitied himself:
with logs, and remained 7 days with a sick fellow'
trapper. At that lime, the valley was alive with
hostile Indians ; but the groal man valued the hf)-
ly jirinciples of humanity more than his life, and
readily put it at hazard lo save that of his com-
|>anion. "A fearful time that," said he "the;
redskij'S saw every tuni olour heads during those
seven days mnl nights. liut I bailed our horses :
within reach of my .lifle during the day, and put
them in thai pen at night ; so that tin y could not ;
rush them otr, without losing their brains. The|!
buft'alo were j)lenty In !■ then. The mountains
were then r h. Why, s.r, the bulla were so bold
that they would come ilnso to the fc nee there at
night, and bellow and roar tdl I eased tlnin of i
their blood by ;i pill of lead in the liver. So you I
Bcc I did not go tar ler meat. Now, the moun- ■
tains arc so |K)or ImiI one would stand aright
pood chance of sl.iring if he were obliged to
hang up here for seven days. The game is all
driven out. No plaee'here for u white num now.
Too poor, too poor. \N'hat little wc get, you sec

is bull beef, Forni(!rly, wc ate notliing but cows,
fat and young. ]\Iore danger then to be sure ;
but more beaver too ; and plenty of grease about
the bufl'alo ribs. Ah I those were good times ;
but a white m.-ui has now no more business lierc."

Our general course since entering the moun-
tains at the Arkansas, had been north by west. —
It now changed to northwest by north.

Our horses and nmles, having eaten to their Bat-
isfaction the rich gras,s about our guide's old en-
canijjinent, we moved on down laltle TivM River.
The country, as we descended, became more and
more barren. The hills wi'rc destitute of timber
and the grasses; thejilains bore nothing but prick-
ly pear and wild wormwood. The latter is u
slirub growing from 2 to (> feet in hight. It
branches in all directions from the root. Tiie
main stem is from 'J to 4 inches in diameter at
the ground, the bark rough, of a light greyish col
or and very thin. The wood is firm, fine grained,
and difiicillt to break. The leaves arc larger, but
resemble in form and color those of the common
woriiuvof>d of the g.irdens. The flavor is that of
a compound of garden wormwood and sage :
hence it has received the names of " wild worm,
wood and " wild sage.'' Its stiff and knotty
branches are peculiarly unpleasant to the traveler
among them. It stands so thickly over thousands
of acres of the mountain vallics that it is well
nigh impossible to urge a horse through it ; and
the individual who is rash enough to attempt
it, will 'umself. be likely to be deprived of his
moccasins, and his horse of his natural covering
of his legs. There are two species of the prickly
pear (cactus) here. The one is Ihc plant of low
growth, thick eliptical leaves armed with thorns,
the same as is foi.nd in the gardens of certain cu-
rious people in the .States. 'I'hc other is of higher
growth, olten reaching .3 feet. The color is a
deep green. Il is a coluumar plant without a leaf;
.he surface of Ihc stalk is checked into diamondB
of the most perfect proijort ions, swelling regularly
from the side« to the centre. At the comers of
these figures grr>w stnaig thorns from an inch to
an inch and a ' df in length. Six inches
from the grotin ., branches shoot irom the
parent st.dk in all directions, making an angle
with it, of about l.") degrees, and growing shorter
as the point of union with the central st.alk in-
creases in height. The coiisislency of the whole
plant is .dternalcly puljiy and fibrous. We were
making our tedious way among these tiioniy com-
panioiis, nmsing upon our emply stomachs, when
we were overtaken by two men, a scpiaw and
child, fro|i ("raig'sjparty. They made their camp
with us at higlil. .N'olhiug to eat, sturviiig and
weak, wc followed the example of the s(piaw, in
eating the inner portion of large thistle stalks.

L'd. A\e ros(! at daybreak, sonunvhat refreshed
by sleep, but weak, weak, h.iving eaten but little
for four days. The longings of appetite — they
are horrible 1 Our guide was use<l to long fasts,
and was, Iherefore. little incommoded. He, how-
ever, had b( 1 u out with his rille, since the peep of
day, and as wc were lifting the i)ackB upon our
mules, it cracked in the direction of the trail we
Were about to travel. We h stened away to him
with the eagerness of starving men, and found
bini resting uueoucernedly upon his rille, wailing
lor us to enjoy witli liiui tlic roasted loins of an

iu the Rocky Mountains, the Oregon Territory, Sfv.

elk, which had tumblod from a ncighborinij cliff,
ill obedience to hisimorriiiff aim. Lrivinfj his sud-
dlc-lioise to pack the meat on, our little eavnlcade
pissed aloiifj a m'le, and encani|ii;d among the
willows on the bank of Little Bear Iliv-r. 'l"he
first work, alter turninjj lof)se our animals, was to
Iniild a fire to cook meat. Our squaw companion
thou'^ht otherwiRc. She selected a place for her
camp beneath the willows, cleared a spot wide
enough lor her bed, formed an arch of the Imuijlis
overhead, covered it with apiece of bufTa.o tent
leather, unloosed her infant from its prison, and
laid it upon skins in the shade she had formed.
After this, the horses of herself and husband were
unharnessed and turned loose to feed. .She 'vas a
pood, cleanly, afTectionate body, equall3- devoted
lo the happiness of her child, husband, and horses ;
and seemed disposed lo initiate us into every little
piece of knowleilu'C that would enable us to dis-
cover the wild edible roots of the country, the best
method of taking fish, hoppling horses, Iving
knols in ropes, repairincr saddles. &c., which e.v-
jierience had taught her. Our lire had just began
to burn brightly, when our guide arrived with Ihe
elk. It was very much ' ruised by it.s fall from
the cliir when shot. Yet it was meat ; it was
broiled ; it was eaten ; it w.is sweet. \o bread,
or vegetables, or salt, to the contrary, it was deli.
ciouB. Four days' fasting is confessed to be an
excellent panacea for a bad appetite ; and as all
good and wholesome rules work lK)th ways, it is,
without doubt, a tii.itefiil addition to bad fofjd. I
must, however, bear my humbl(> testimony to the
fact that meat alone, unqualitied with gravy, un.
sprinkled with salt or pepper, unaided by any veg.
etablc or farinacious aceompaniment. is excellent
food for men. It neither makes them tigtrsnor
crocodiles. On the contrary, it prevents starva.
lion when nothing else can be had, and cultivates
industry, the parent of virtue. In all the multiplied
departments of the gastric svstcm.

3d. IJemained in camp all dav to refresh our
animals, to eat, and hear yanis of mountain life.
During these conversations, the great dangers of
u residence among the mountains was often re.
verted to. One class of them, was sai<l to arise
from the increasing scarcity of buffalo and beaver
among them. This cireuinstaace compelled the
trappers to rove over a wider range of country,
and, by consequence, multiplied the chances of
of falling in witli th.' !Siou.\ and Hlackfeet, their
deadliest enemies — enemies on whom no de))en-
dinee could be placed other than this, that they
always fight well whenever and wherever met.
Our new friends related, in this connexion, the
death of one of their old compajiions, a brave old
trapi)er by the name of Redman. This man, and
anolher called MarkhCad, weic (rapping on the
head-waters of (Jreen River, when tliey were dis.
covered by a war party of youiif; S'ouv, and
robbed of their horses. 'I'liis was a grea' annoy,
anee to tliem. The loss of the value of llnir ani-
mals was inconvenient for the pior men ; but the
loss of their services iu transporting tluir traps
and furs, and " pos.sibles. " (clothing, cooking
niensils, 4c.,) was Bovereiy felt. They must re-
cover them or " rarhe ,•" that is, burv iii some se.
eret place in the dry sanil their remauiing proper-
ty ; forsake their hunt, and abandon all their
prospects of gain for the season. Redman had

\r.

lived with the Sioux, and relying on their fonncr
friendshi]) for him in their village, dotcnnlncd to
go with Markhcad and attempt to reason a Sioux
war party into a surrender of their plunder. They
approached them rifle in hand, and held n parley
near the Pilot Hutc. The ri^sult was, that the In.
dians demanded and obtained their rifl^-s, dis.
charged them at their owners, killed Redman in.
stantly, and severely wounded lilfi companion. —
This occurred in the S))ringof 1831).

•1th. We were early on route this morning,
down the banks of Little Bear River ; course
northwest. Our track lay so low, that the moun-
tains were seldom seen. A portion of the Anahu.
ac ridge in the southwest, was the only hight con-
stantly in view. The plains, as they arc called, on
either side of the river, were cut into vast ravines
and bluffs. In their side sometimes appeared a
i thin stratum of slate. Few other rocky strat.i
were seen during a march of l.'i miles. .\l)out 12
o'clock, W(^ came upon a cave formed by the lime-
.stonc and sulphur deposit of a small stream that
burst from a hill, hard by. The water had, by con-
stanjt deposit ions, formed an elevated channel some
five rods down the face of the hillside ; at (he ter-
mination of which, it spread itself over a circid.ar
sirfaee of 1,50 or 2UI) feet in circumference. In
the centre of this, was an orifice, down which tlie
water trickled into the cave below. \a little of
the cave could be .seen from the ground alwve, my.
self and two others attempted to explore it. Wc
found the roof hung with bcaiitifidly chrystalizcd
sulphur, and the bottom strown with largo quanti-
ties of the same material in a pulverized state. —
The odor was so offensive, however, that wc were
glad to retreat before w- had formed a very perfect
es(ima(e of its extent r.ad contents. It was about
six rods long, eight feet wide, and four feet high.
Near it were a number of warn; springs. On the
bluff, a few rods .above it, was a small tract of fused
rocks. In all the circle of vi.fion, however, there
were no elevations that indicate any powerful vol-
canic .action in former times ; nor any from which
these rocks could have Mimbled or been thrown.
The warm springs, however, in the vicinity may,
perhaps, indicate their origin.

The l^ace of the country passed to-day, was dry
and barren. A single quaking asp tree here and
there, on the sterile bottom lauds, and small strips
of cotton-wood, whose tops jiejred from the deep
gorges just aliove the level of the wonuwood plainu,
and a few withered patches of the wild grasses
among the patched bluffs, present its whole as-
pect.

The SUP had nearly set before we arrived .at the
d( sired place of eneainpment, the junction of the
(wo principal forks of Little Bear River. When
within half a 'uile of it, one of the trappers who ha J
joined us suddenly starti ,'. his horse into a ijuick
gallop in advance of the n si of tli.r party. We
were surprised by this sudden movement, and has.
tened after bini. As we rose a sharp knoll, our
surjirise was changed to pleasure, on seeing him
in friendly converse with a white face, a fellow,
trapper, (me of the " white men" of the mountains.
He was a French Canadian, fourteen days from
Brown's Hole. We were soon across the river,
and in bis camp among the cotton. wood. Here
we found thre<' others to w<'lcome us and give us
information ofthc movements of the Indian».—

They had been attacked by a Sioux war party, a
few days before, on Little Snake River, but bad en.
caped with no oilier Iobb than that of a hat and fa.
vorite dog. Their opinion wbb, that we should
have the plrasuru of niprting them on their way to
Brown's Hole. This pro»|)cct was extremely grat-
ifying to our noble old Kentucky guide. " D — n
their eyes," said he, " I'll try to pick up one of the
rasciUf. Rcd)nan was aa fino a fellow as ever
came to the mountains, and they sliot liiin with his
own rifle. He was a fool to U'X them tiavc it, he
ought to have shot one of them, d — n 'em, un<l then
died, if he must."

Our elk meat was dimiiuslmg fast, under the
kind administration of our own and our friend's
appetit«B. And the certain prospect that we should
obtain no more for 8 days, was a source of no in-
considerable imeasiness to us. And yet we gave
Ward, Burns, tlic squaw, and the four French
trappers, being destitute of food, as freely as they
would have given to us imder similar circumstan-
ces, the best piece and as much as tliey would eat
for supper and breakfast. These solitary French-
men were apparently very happy. Neither hunger
nor thirst annoys tliem, so long as they have
•trcngtlj to travel and trap and sing. Their camps
are always merry, and they cheer themselves along
the weary march in the wilderness with the wild
border songs of " Old Canada."' The American
trappers present a different phase of character. —
Habitual watchfulness destroys ever' frivolity of
mind and action. They seldom sr Je ; the ex-
ptcssion of their countenances is watchful, solcnm
and determined. They ride and walk, like men
whose breasts have so long been cxpoued to the
bullet and arrow, that fear finds within them no
resting place. If a horse is descried iji the dis.
tance, they put spurs to their animals, and arc at
his side at once, as the result may be, for death or
life. No delay, no second thought, no cringing in
their stirrups ; but erect, firm, and with a strong
arm, they seize and overcome every danger " or
perish," say tliey, " as white men should," fight,
ing promptly and bravely.

5tli. This moming'we were to part with Burns
and Ward, and the French trappers. The latter
pursued their way to the " Old Park," as they
called the valley of Grand River, in iiursuit of
beaver; the former \%cnt into the bights in the
nouthwest, for the same object, and the additional
one of waiting there, the departure of the Sioux
and Blackfeet. These Americans had interested
us in tllemselves by their frankness and kindness ;
and before leaving them, it was pleasant to know
that we could testify our regard for them, by in-
orea/ring their scanty stock of ammunition. But
for evory little kindness of this descriiition, they
■ought to remunerate us ten fold by giving us
moccasins, dressed deer and elk skins, &.c. Every
tiling, even their hunting shirts upon their backs,
were at our service ; — lilways kindly remarking
when they made an offer of such tilings, tliat "the
country was filled with skins, and they could get a
eupply when they should need them." About 10
o'clock, wo bade these fearless and generous fel-
lows a farewell, as hearty and honest as any that
wa« ever uttered j wishing them a long and happy
life in their mountain home, and they us a plea-
•ant and prosperous journey, and took up our
marcli again, down little Bear River for Brown's

Hole. It was six or eight " c^inps" or day's travel
ahead of us ; the way Infested with hostile Indians
— destitute of game and grass ; a horrid journey !
We might oscai>c the Sioux ; we might kill one
of our horses and so escape death by starvation !
But these few chances of saving our lives worn
enough. Dangers of these kinds were not so ap-
palling to us then, as they would liave lieen when
leaving the frontier. AVe had been (iO odd days
among the fresh trails of hostile tribes, in hourly
expectation of licaring the war whoop raised
around us ; and certain, that if attacked by a war.
party of the ordinary number, we should be dcs.
troycd. We had however crept upon every bight
which we had crossed, with so much caution, and
examined the plains below with ho much care ; and
when danger apjieared near, wound our way
among the timber and bights till we had passed
it, with so mucli success, that our sens); of danger
was blmitcil to that degree, and our confidence in
our ability to avoid it ho great, that I verily be-
lieve we thought as little of Indians as we did of
the li/ards along our track.

We still clung to the stream. It was generally
about 50 yards wide, a rapid current 6 inches deep,
rushing over a bed of loose rocks and gravel, and
falling at the rate of about 'JOG feet to the mile. —
During the day a grisly bear and three cubs and
an elk shov.ed theniselves. One of the men gave
chase to the hears with the intention of killing one
of them for food. But they eluded his pur-
suit by running uilo brusli through which a horso
coulu not penetrate with sufficient speed to over.
take them. The man in pursuit however, found a
charming prize among the brush — a mule — an ex-
cellent pack mule,that would doubtless be worth to
him, at Brown's Hole, $100. It was feeding
qu etly, and so tame as to jiennit liLm to approach
wiil;ln ten yards, without even raising its head
over the liazle bushes that partly concealed it. —
A double prize it was, and so accidental ; obtained
at so little expense ; ton minutes time only — ten
dollars a minute ! 1 But alas for the ^100": Ho
was preparing to grasp it, and tlio muJc most sub.
dcnJy — most won(lerfully — most cruelly metamor-
phosed itself into an elk 1 — fat as marrow itself,
and Hullicient in weight to have fed our company
for 12 days — and fled away before our " maid and
and her milk jiail" companion could shake his
astonished locks, and send a little lead after it by
way of entreaty to supply iih Htarviiig wretches
with a morsel of meat. After this incident liad
imparted its comfort to oiu' disappointed appetites
we passtd on, over, around, in and among deep
ravines, and parched, sterile and flinty plains, lor
the remainder of our ten miles' march, and en-
camped on the bunk of the river. The last of our
meat was licre cooked and eaten. A sad prospect.
No game ahead, no provisions in iiossession I Wn
caught 3 or 4 small trout from the river for break,
fast, and slept. I was much debilitated by want
of food and the fatigues of the joiuncy. I had
appropriated my saddle horse to bear the packs
that had been borne by Kelley's before its death ;
and had, consequently, been on foot ever since that
event, save when >y guide could relieve ine with
thcuscoflu3 sadulc beast. But as our Spanish
servant, the owner and myself, had only his horwi'n
services to bear us along, the iiortion to each
wai f tr from satisfying to our exceeding wcari.

in the Rocky Mounlains, the Oregon Territory, ^.

MM. Dlair and Wood alm>, Imd liad only one
hoMe from El Pcubla. Wo were, therefore in an
ill condition to endure a journey of 7 days — over a
thirety country, under a burning dim — and with-
out food.

Gth. 18 milcB to-day over the barren intervales
of the river. The wild wormwood and prickly
pear were nlmont the only evidences of veijetative
iwwcrB which the soil presented. A rugged deeo-
latio* of loam and sand blufl's, barren vales of red
earth, and an occasional solitary boulder of granite.
No mountains even, to relieve the dreary mo.
notony of the sickening sight. About 1'2 o'clock
it was pleasant to sec a small band of antelope
pjiow thcmBclves on the brink of a bluff. \Vc
halted, and attempted to approach them ; but they
had been liujited a few days before by tlie I'rcnch
trappers whom we had met, and by no means
relished our companionship. Away they ran like
the wind. Our liopes of finding game were at an
end ; the French trajiperB had seen on all their
way out, no other game than tliis band of antelope
Our faithful grey hound could Ix- eaten as a Inst
recourse, and wc traveled on. 0\\r excellent
guide insinfed upon walking nearly all the way
that I miglit ride. Tliis was inestimably kind in
him. But the act flowed from his own goodness.
For, during our long jowmry togethcr,lic had nc\er
failed to take every opportunity to make me com-
fortable. We arranged our camj) to-niglit with
imuKual care, The Siou.x xvere among the hills
on the right, and every preparation was therefore
made to receive an attack icom them. But like
many otiicr expectations of the kind, this vanished
as the beautiful mountain mom dawned upon the
silent desert.

7th. To-day wc traveled across a great south-
ward l)end in the river ; — face of the country a
desert — neither tree nor shrub, nor grass, nor wa-
tcr in sight. During the afternoon wc fell in
with an old grisly bear and two culw. It was a
dangerous business, but starvation knows no fear.
Kelly and Smith, havmg horses that could run,
determined to give chase and shoot one cub,
while the grey hound should have the lionor of a
battle with the other. Under this arrangement
tlie chase commenced. The old bear, unfaithful
to her young, ran alieari of them in her fright,
and showed no other atToction for thcni llian to
stop occasionally, raise herself on her hind feet,
and utter a most i)iteouH screani. Thi horses soon
ran down one cub, and the grey hound the other,
so that in half an hour wc were oti thn route
again with the certaiji prospect of a supper when
wc should encamp. Had wc foimd water and
wood where wo killed our meat wc should have
believed it impossible to have proceeded further
without food. But as necessity ncldoin deals in
mercy, she compelled us in this case, to travel till
dark before wc found wood enough to cook our
food, and water enough to quench our parching
thirst. At last turning from our track and fol-
lowing down a de*p ravine that ran toward the
river, wo came up<m a filthy, oozing sulphurous
puddle which our horses, though they had had no
water the entire day. refused to drink. There was
no alternative however between drinking tliis and
tliirsting still, and wo submitted to the l>>8scr of two
evils. We drank it ; and tlio aid of dry worm-
wood for fuel, boi.'.. i our meat in it- These cubs

were each of almut 12 pounds weight. The liv-
ers, lieiU'tB, heads, and the fore quarters of one of
them, made us a filthy supper. It however served
the purpose of better food as it prevented starva.
tion. Wc had traveled 18 miles.

8th. The morning being clear and excessively
warm, we thought it pnidcnt to ne<'k the river
again, that we might obtain water for ourselves
and animals. They had had no grass for the last
24 hours ; and the prospect of finding some for
the poor animals upon the intervales, w.ts an ad-
ditional inducement to adopt this course. We
accordingly wound down the ravine two or three
miles, struck the river at a point where its
banks were producti'i-e, and unpacked to feed
them, and treat ourselves to a breakfast of cub
meat. Boiled or roasted, it was miserable food.
To eat it however, or not to cat at all, wns tlie al.
temative. Furthermore, in a region wlierc liz-
ards grow poor, and wolves te4m against sand
banks to howl, cub soup, without salt, pepper, iic,
must be acknowleged to be quite in stvle.

Having iM'Coine somewhat comfortable by feast-
ing thus, we traveh'd on dowii this river of de.
sertH xJO miles, and encamped again on its banks.
At this encampment we ate the last of oiv meat ;
and broke the Ixmcs with our hatchet for the oily
marr'HV in them. The prospect of Kuft'ering from
hunger before wc could arrive at Brown's Hole,
iH'canie every hour more and more <-ertain. The
country l)etween us and lliat point was known to
be St) sterile, that not even a grisly licar was to be
hopc'd for in it. It was a (lesert of black flint,
sand and marl, rendered barren by perpetual
drought.

9th. Traveled 23 miles along the river — nothing
to cat, not even a thistle stalk. At night wc tried
to take some f.:;li : the stream proved as ungener-
ous as the soil on its banks.

10th. .Made 15 miles to-day ; country covered
with wild wormwood ; al intervals a little bimch
grass — dry and dead ; face of the country for-
merly a plain, now waslied into hills. Our dog
was frantic with Inmger ; and although he had
treated us to a cub, and servid us with all the fi-
delity of his race, wc determined. in full council
to-night, if our hooks took no fisli, to breakfast
on his faithful heart in tlic morning. A horrid
night we passed ; IS hours without a morsel of
f(X)d ! Our camp was 8 niilef alx)ve the jmiction
of Little Bear and Little Snake Rivers.

lltli. This morning wc tried our utmost skill
at fishing. Tatieiice often cried ' hold,' but the
npiH-arance of our [joor dog would admonish us
to continue our etTorts to obtain a breakfast from
the stream. Thus we fished and fasted till eight
o'clock. A small fisli or two were caught — three
or four ounces of food for 7 starving men 1 Our
guide <lrclared the noble dog must die ! He was
accordingly shot, his hair burnt oft', and his fore
qua ters Ujiled and eaten 1 1 Some of the men
declared that dogs made excellent mutton ; but
im tliis |K)hit, there existed among us what politi-
cians term an lionest difference of opinion. To
me, it tasted like the Jleah of a dog, a sinffed
tliig ; and ajjpetite keen though it was, and edged
by a fast of filty hours, could not but be sensibly
alive to the fa lat, whether cooked or barking,
a dog is still a do i, i very where. Alter our repast
was finished, w saddled up and rode over the

Travels in the Cheat Western Prairies,

pliiinn in a northerly direction for Brown's Hole. |
Wc had been trnvclin;; tlie hist five dajs, in ii wen- 1
trrly coiirw. : and as the river eontiniird in that ■
direction, we h-tt it toseo it no more, I would liuin- ,
biy hiipe, till tln^ dews of Heaven shall cause its ;
deserts lo blossom and ri|H>ii into something; more ■
nutritive than wild wormwoixl and tfravel. |

Wo crossi'd Little Snake Uiver about I II o'clock. |
This stream is similar in size to that we had '

considerable distance inn westerly course — tcrmi.
nates in its own lake. On the banks of this river
there is said to be some vejjetation, as ijrasses,
trees and edible roots. Here live the " Piutes "
and " Land I'itehes," the most degraded nnd
least iiilellfctual Indians known to the trappers.
Thev wear no elothinij; of any description — build
no sliclters. They eat roots, lizards and snaUs.
Their (lersons arc morr disjiusling thiui those of

just left. The water was clear and warm, the i\ the Hottentots. Their heads are white with tlm
ehaiuiel rocky and lM)rdered by barren blutVs. — 1: i;erms of cr.iwliug fdth I They provide notliinjj
No trees grew upon its banks where wc struck it ; '; lor future wants. And when the lizard and snail
but I was informed that higher np, it was skirted |i riiid wild roots are buried in the snows of winter,
with pretty groves of cotton wood. Hut as the , they are said to retire to the vicinity of timber,
JSiou.x war party which had attacked the I dig holes in the form of ovens in the steep sides
French trappers in this neighlxirhood, were proba. i of the sand hills, and, having heated them to a
biynotfar from our trail, perhaps on it, and near ' certain degree, dcposite themselves in them, and

us, we spent little time in examining either groves
or deserts. For we were vain cuotigli to su|)pose
that the mere incident of being scalped here would
not be as interesting, to ourselves at least, as would
be our speedy arrival at t'raig and Thomson's post
— where wc might cat christian food and rest from
the fatigues of our journey. For these, nnd sever,
al other palpable reasons, wc drove on spccdilv and
silently, with every eye watchful, every gini well
primed, every animal close to his fellows, till ten
o'clock at night. We then halted near a place
where wc had been totd by the French trappers,
we could find a spring of water. The day harl
been excessively wann, and oiir thirst was well
nigh insuHernble. Hence the long search for the
cooling spring to slake its burnings. It was in
vain. Near midnight therefore it was abandoned
by all, and wc wrap|ted ourselves in onr blankets, ;
hungry, thirsty, and wenry, and sunk to rest u|M)n
the sand. Another dreadful night ! Thirst, bum-
ing thirst 1 The glands cease to moisten the
mouth, the throat becomes dry and feverish, the
lungs cease to he satisfied with the air they inhale,
the heart is sick and faint ; and the nerves prcter-
naturally active, do violence to every vital organ. '
It is an incipient throe of death. \

'Jlth. We arose at break of day, nnd pursued'
our journey over the gray, barren wastes. This '
legion is doomed to perjietual sterility. In many
portions of it there appears to bo a line soil. But
the trappers say that very little rain or snow falls
upon it ; hence its unproductiveness. And thus
it is said to lie with the whole eountrv lying to the
di.staiice of hundreds of miles on each side of the
whole course of the Colorado of the West. Vast
plateaux of desolation, yielding only llic wild
wormwood and prickly pear. .So barren, st) hot,
so destitute is it of water, that can be obtained
and drunk, that the niouutain sheep and hare
even, animals which drink less than any others i
that inhabit these regions, do not venture there. '
TraveU'rs along that stream are said to be com- 1

sleep and fast till the weather permits them to go

abroad again for food. Persons who have visited

! their haunts after a severe winter, have found the

ground around these family ovens strown with

the uubiiried Imdies of the dead, and others crawl-

ing among them, who had various degrees of

strength, from a bare sufticieni'y to gasp in death,

, to those that crawled upon their hands and feet,

: eating grass like cattle. It is said that they have

no we.i|)onBof defence except the club, and that in

the use of that they are very unskilful. These

poor creatures are hunted in the spring of the

year, when weak and helpless, by a certain class

of men, and when taken, are fattened, carried to

I .Santa Fe and sold as slaves during their minority.

" A likely girl " in her teens brings oftentimes

■SSfH) or 8 ion. The males are valued less.

At alKiiit II o'clock, we came lo a stream of
good water and halted to slake our thirst, and cook
the remainder of our <log mutton. Our animals'
sufl'crings had nearly equalled our own. And
while wc ate and rested under the shade of a tree,
, it added much to our eiijoyment to see the fain-
' islicd beasts regale Ihcnisclves njxm n plat of short
wiry grass beside the stream. Some marks of
dragging lodge |)oliii along the now well defined
trail, imhcatcd to us that a (Kirtion of the Sho-
shoiiic or Snake trils' had lately left Urown's
Hole. From this circumstance wc liegaii to fear
what afterwards proved true, that our hopes of
finding the .Snakes at that post a;id of getting
meat from them would prove fallacious. Our
filthy meal being finished, we gathered up our lit-
tle caravan and moved forward at a round pace
for tlu-ee hours, when tlii^ bliift's o|)ened before us
the lieautiful plain of Brown's Hole. As wo en-
tered it we crossed two cool streams that tumbled
down from the stratified clill's near at hand on the
right ; and a few rods beyond, the whole area
became visible. The Fort, as it is called, jicered
up in the centre, upon the winding bank of the
Sheetskadee. The dark inonntains roso around

pellcd to carry it long distances upon animals, ! it sublimely, and the green fields swept .away into
and draw it where it is jiossible so to do, with a ; the deep precipitous gorges more beautifully than
rope and skin bucket from the th;ism of the ji I can describe.

stream. And yet tli animals frequently die of ] How glad is mnn to sec hia home again after a
thirst and hunger ; and men often save their lives P weary absence ! F.vcry ste]i becomes quicker ua
hy eating the carcasses of the dead, and by il he approaches its sacred [mrtals ; and kind smiles
drinking the blood which thev from time to time |l greet him; and leaping hearts beat uiion his, and
draw from the veins of the living. Between this || warm lips press his own. Tt is the holy sacrament
river and the (Jreat Salt Lake, there is a stream ]! of friendship. Yet there is another class of tlicst!
called Severe River, which rises in the high iila- il emotions that appears to be not less lioly. They
touiix to the S. E. of the lake, and running some || arise wlten, after liaving been long cut off from

in Ihe Rocky Mountains, the Oregon Territory, Sfc.

every iiabit and synipalliy of civilized life, lone
wiindcring amoiij; the deep and silent tiinplcB of
(he r-tcrnal mountains, lonj^ undliom'ly exposed to
llio Bculping liiiife of siivagis and the ajfonies of
starvation, one beholds llio dwrllinj; of eivilized
men — kindred of the (dd Patriot Idood, rearing
their hospitable roofs ainoiit; tliose hijfhts, invitin;;
the houseless, wayworn wanderer forest"; to relax
tlie tension of his enerfjies, elose his long watehini;
eyes, and repose the heart awhile auionjj (jeni'r.
cms spirits of liis own race. Is not the hand that
jirasps your's then, an honest hand ? And does it
not distil by its saered warinlh and hearty eni-
hraee, some of the dearest emotions of wliieh tlio
soul is capable ; friendship unallo\ ed, warm, holy
and heavenly ? Tims it seemed to me, at all
events, as w(' rode into the hollow scpiare and re-
eeivcd from St. Clair, the person in charjrc, the
hearty welcome of an old hunter to " Fort David
Crockett." A room was appropriated innnedi-
atcly for our reception, our horses were piven to
the care of his hoise jruard, iuid every otl.er ar-
rangenirnt within his means, was made, to make
us feel, that wiihin that little nest of fertility,
amid the barrenness of the jjreat .Stony IJanjie;
far from the institutions of law and religion ; .ar
from the sweet ties of Ihe family relations, and all
those nameless endearing iiillueiiees that shed
their rich fraijrance over human nature in its cul.
tivated abiding places; — that there even eould he
(fiven us the fruits of the sincercst friendship.
.Such kindness, can be appreciated fully by those
only, who have enjoyed it in such places ; who
have seen it manifested in its own way; by those
only, who have starved and thirsted in these de.
Berts and been welcomed, and made thriee wel-
come, after months of weary wandering, to " Fort
Jlavid Crockett."

After partaking of t'le hospitality of ]\Ir. .St.
Clair, I strolled out to cvamine more minutely Ibis
wonderful little valley. It is situated in or about
latitude M degrees north ; 100 miles wmtli of Wind
Uiver moimtaiiiH, on the Sheelskadee (Prairie
Cock) River. lis elevation is something more
than 8,001) feet above the level of the sea. It ap.
peared to be about six miles in diameter ; shut in,
in all directions, by dark frowning mountains,
rising 1,.')00 feet above Ihe jiliiin. The Slieetska-
dee, or Cireen Uiver runs tlirongli it, sweeping in a
beautiful curve from Ihe north-west to the soulli-
wost part of it, where it breaks its way through the
encircling mouiilaiiis, between elift's 1 ,000 feet in
higlit, broken and hanging as if poised on Ihe air.
The area of the plain is thickly set with Ihe rich
mountain grasses, and dotted willi little eopscs of
cotton wood and willow trees. The soil is allu-
vial and ea])al)le of producing abmidantly all kinds
of small grains, vegetable. &.e. that an' raised in
the northern .States. Its eliinule is very riinarka-
ble. Although in all Ihe country within 100 miles
of it, the winter nionlhs bring snows and the .se-
VI re cold that we should expect in such alatiludo,
and at such an elevation above the level of the
wa, yet hi this little iifiok, the grass grows all the
winter. .So that, wliili; the storm rages on the
mountains in siglit, and the drilling snows mingle
in the blasts of December, Ihe old hunters here,
heed it not. Their horses arc cropping the green
grass on the banks of the Sheelskadee, while they,
tlicinsclves, are roasting the fat loins of tlio inouii-

I' tain slieep, and laughing at the merry tale and

i song.

r The Fort is a hollow square of one story log

1 cabins, with roofs and lloors of mud, constructed

' in Hie same manner as those of Fort William.

i .Around thest- W(^ found the conical skin lodges of

Ihe S(pMWsof(he while trappers who were away

on their " fall bunt," and also the lodges of a few

I .'>in:ike Indians, who had preeceded their tribe to

this, their winter haunt. Here also were the lodges

of Mr. Robinson, a trader, who usually stations

hiinsell here to tratlie with Ihe Indians and white

trappers. Mis skin lodge was his warehouse ; and

butliilo robes spread U|W)n the ground, his counter,

on which he displayed his butcher knives, hatehelB,

j powder, lead, fish-hooks and whiskey. In ex-

j ehiinge for these articles, he receives beaver skinii

j from trappi'rs, money from travelers, and horses

I from Ihe Indians. Thus, as one would lielievc,

il y\r. Robinson drives a very snug little business.

j .\nd indeed when all Ihe " iiideprndent trappers"

j are driven by aiiproaehing winter into this delight-

' 111! retreat; ami the whole Snake village, 2 or

3,000 strong, impelled by the same necessity, pitch

I tliiir lodgef. around Ihe Fort, and the dances and

merry makinirs of a long winter are thoroughly

coiimienerd, there is no want of customers.

Tliese winters in Urown's Hole are somewhat

: like winters among the mountains of New-Eiig-

] land, in the efl'eets they produce on the rise and

I progress of the art of all arts — the art of love.

For as among the good old hills of my native

elinie, (piiltings, and singiiig.schools, and iwening

dunces, when the stars arc shining brightly on the

snow crust, do sollen the heart of the mountain

j lad and lassie, and cau.se Ihe sigh and blush to

j triumph overall the counsels of maiden aunts and

j. fortune tellers ; so here in this beautiful valley and

I; in the skin lodge villai;. of the .Snakes, there arc

\. bright evenings, be.uniiig stare and mellow moons,

and social circles for singing the wild ditties of

' their tribe, and for sewing with the sinews of the

deer, their leggins, moccasins and butt'alo robes,

I and for being bewitched with the tender jiassion.

i The dance, too, inlivens the village. The musi-

eian chants the wild song and marks the lime by

regular healings with a stick upon a sounding

; lK)ard. And light heels, and sturdy forms, and

bii.xom forms respond to his call. To these and

! oilier gallierings, the young go, to see who are the

; fairest and best and most loved of the throng. Our

j friend Ci.pid goes there too. Yes, Cu|)id at an

j Indiiin dance 1 And there measuring how and

i: arrow with thee who invented them, he often lays

at his fell, I am told, the proudest hawk's feather

thtit adorns thiMirow of Chief or Chiefess. For,

on the moniiug after the dance it not unircquently

; happens that he of the Ixard is compelled by force

I of certain une;isy sensations about the heart, to

; iip|)ly to some beardless one for the balm of sweet

j smiles for his relief. He does not wait lor the calm

hour of a .Sunday night. Nor docs he delay put-

; ting the qui stioii by |H)etleal allusions to the violet

ii and lirmamenl. No ! calm hours and the [Mctry

I' of nature have no charms tor him. He wants

j none of these. Our fiiend Cupid has east an arrow

I; into his heart, bearded with the stings of irrcsisti.

bic emotion; and he seeks that mischievous fair

one, her alone, who selected the arrow and the

victim J her ulono who was a " purticeps criaiinis"

7\-avels '.n the Oreal Wettern Prairitt,

in Ihn loss of that (jront rrntrnl orpnn of his life
c:\llcd in tlic niiniilB of CliriHtian rouMtrirB, " the
hrnrt." " No I liis I'ourw i« vanlly inorr pliilo.
Kophical nnd Hinglo minded (I nicnn no otrcncr to
my coiintryinpn, nonn to you, yc Dritons over tlic
wntcm,) tlmn tlie (jingrr.brcad Huenr-onndy court,
ships of ('hriittinn people, lie firHt pnys hin nd.
droswH lo Ilia band of liorsoB ; boIccIs the nioM
kcautifid and vuluablt; of tliPiii all, and (hen i;orH
with liiH rhoBcn liorBc to the lodge of liin eliuHcii
Kirl'u father or niotlier, or if Imth tliene be dead,
to the lodije of her eldent nister, ties the animal to
the tent pole, and goes away. After his depitrl.
urc the inniateH of the lodge isBiie from it, and in
due form examine the hnrw ; and if it niijiefirB to
be. worth as nineh ns the pirl whom the owner
weks, an interview iB had, tlin liorsi! taken by
the parents or Bister as the ease may be, and the
lover takes the girl. A fair businetis transaetion,
you ])ereeive, my rendcra — " u (|uid pro quo" — a
eompenflnlion in kind. The girl reeeived in ex-
change for Ihe horse becomes the absolute per-
wmal pro|)crty of the <namored jockey, subject lo
be resold whenewr Ihe state of the market and
liis own affection will allow. But if those, whose
right it is to judge in the matter, arc of o|)inion
that the girl is worth more than the horse, another
\» brouglxt ; and if these are not enough, lie of
the heard nniy bring another or get Cupid to shoot
liiB heart in another direction. 'I'here are many
benefits in this mode ofobtaining that description of
legal chatties called a wife, over the mode usually
adopted iunnng us. Ab for example ; Uy lliis
mode tllere is a price given for a valuable article.
Now to my apprehension, this is an improvement
uiK)n our plan. For it removes entirely from ccr-
tain old daddies, the necessity of disiK)Bing of their
daughters by gift, to certain worthless, portionless
young men, who are merely virtuous, talented, hon-
est and indnstrioUB. An evil of no sniiill magin.
tude, as may \h' learned by inquiry in the jjrojier
quarter. Hut the Indian system of matrimoMy
extirpates it. Wealth measures oti" affection and
pro|>erty by the peck, yard or dollar's worth, as
circumstances require; and no young lady of real
gcruiinc property, res|)ectal>ilily and standing, and
family, will think of jilacing her atli^clions upon
a talented, virtuous and industrious, promlaing
and pros|)erous coxcomb of fKiverty ; nor, vice
versa, will a young man of these vulgar qualities.
have the unfathomable barefaccdncss to projiose
himself to a young lady of real genuine properly
rcBpcctf.bility, projierty form, pro])crly face, pro.
perty virtue, property modesty, and property in-
telligence. No, blees the day ! such impudence
will cease to interfere with the legitimate preten-
tions of those who are able — while they declare
their passion mighty, unalterable and pur<', — to
place in the hands from which tlicy receive the
dear object of their property love, the last (|uoted
prices of the family stock. But I [)ass to the con-
Bideration of iinotlier view of this matter that I
deem, if possible, of still greater imjmrtanee. As,
if in disposing of yomig ladies in marriage, a valua-
tion in money shoidd he made of their pro])crtv
beauty, property modesty, property intelligence,
&.C., and rcquirc;d to be paid before marriage,, the
false opinion that honesty, probity, intelligence,
integrity, virtue and respectability can exist with-
out a property basis, would gradually fade '\yia.y

before the influence of our rich daddies' dnugh-
ters, Oh the age that would then bIcBS our earth '.
The piety of the church would fan itself in the
property Jtew. The forum of jurisprinlencc woidd
then echo to the lofty straiim of property eloquence.
The pravcB of Acndemus would brenthe the wis-
dom of property philosophy. The easel of the
artist woidd cast \\\n\\ the caiwnss the inspirntions
of pro|ierty genius. And nuisic. and sculpture,
and poetry, liorn in gam ts, would give place to
another race of these arts— a prr)))erty race, that
could be kept in oiU''s apartments without compel-
ling one to blush for their origin. We should llieii
have a property fitncsB of things, that would place
our property selves in .t state of exalted property
beatitude. It is hoped that the I/Cgislators of the
world will iK'Stow u|«m this matter their most
serious attention, and from lime to time pass
such laws as will aid mankind in attaining thin
splendid and brilliant exultation of our nature,
when the precious metals shall be n univerflal mea-
sure of value.

This is diverging. But after my reader is in-
formed that the only distinct aim I projKjsed to
myself in writing my journal, was to keep the day
of the month correctly, and in other res|)ect»
" keep a blotter," the transition from this Blrain of
true philos<iphy, to a notice of the white men and
their scpuiws, will be thought easy and natural.

If then a w bite man is disimsed to take imlo
himself a squaw among the i^nakes, he nmsl con.
form to the laws and customs of the trilic, that
have been or<lained and established for the regula-
tion of all such matlcrB. .'Vnd, whether the color
in any individual case be of black or white, doeit
not seem to be a (|ue«tion ever raisctl to take it out
of the rules. The only diflerence is, that the pro.
perty, beauty, \c. of Ihe whiles frequently gives
(hem the preference on 'change, and enables them
to obtain the Ixst squaws of the nation. These
connections lx(wccn the white trappers ^oid sepiaws
I nin told, are (he cause of so m;;:., of tiic former
remaining during life in these valleys of blood. —
They seem to love (hem as ardendy as they would
females of (heir own color.

A trader is living there with a young F.utaw
squaw, for whose charms he has forsaken friends,
wealth and ease, and eivilizalion, for an Indian
lodge among all (lie dangers and wan(s of a wilder-
ness. This gendcman is said (o have a standing
offer of iJiTOd for his dear one, whenever, in the
course of a limited time, he will sell her graces.
But it is believed that his heart has so much to do
with his estimation other value, that no eonsidera.
tion eoulil induce him vohmtarily to deprive liiiii.
self other society.

The almvc anecdotes, iVc. were related \r me
dm-ing the first evening I •■■p'-it at Fori JXuid
CrockcK. It was a bright ethcrial iMglit. The
Fort stood in (he shade of (he wild and dark cliffs,
while the light of the moon shone on the wef'ern
peaks, and east a dcipcr <larknes8 into tlu^ inacces.
sible gorges on the face of the mountains. The
Shcclskadee flowed silently am' .ig (he alders — the
fires in the Indian lodges wpic smoiddering ; sleep
had gathered every .miniate thing in its embrace.
It was a night of awful solitude — the grimdeur of
an innnensity of silence I I enjoyed the lovely
scene till near midnight in company with Mr. 8t.
Clair ; and when ut last its exciteiucnts and tlie

in the Roeky Mountains, the Oregon Ttnitery, i(e.

tlirilliii|r plonBurc of boinff rcliovcd from tlio prod. ]
ppcl ol'ildilh Irnm liiiii({<"r ullowcd me to Hlunilirr,
lliiit (jeiitlriimii condurlrd iiir to Iiin own rfM)m iind
bed, und IkkIc mo nccupy Ik>|Ii wlidi! I Hhuulit r<'.
iiiulii with liiiM. lie cxprtwfiod rcirrrt tliiit lie lind
w) liltio proviHioiiH in llic F(irt ; — ii Kinnll .jimnlity
of old jerked meal ; ii little ten iirid tiii(;ur. "Hut,"
N lid he, " Hhiiro it with mc as lori^r uh it IuhIh ; I
'lave huMt(!r« nut ; they will he here in ten or twelve
(layH ; yon have iK'eu utarviiig ; eat while there in
any Ihiiij; lelt -and when all is ),'one we'll have a
moiiiitaiii nheep, or a dot; to keep olV Htarvntion till
the liiinlerH eome in." .My eoiiipanionH and (juide
Were Ichh lortunate. We purchaRed all tlie meat
that either money or (joodHeoiild iiuhiee the Indinns
to sell. It nmoiintod to one day'n Hiipgdy for the
eompany. And »r there was Kiip]H)sed to he no
l^aine within a. eirenit of UK) miles, it heeanio
matter of serioiw ie.ipnry whether we nhoidd seek
il in the direetion of I'ort llall, or on the head w».
ters of Liltif Snake Kiver, 100 miles otl' our pro-
])ir naite toOreijon. In the latter place there were
plenty of llni', lat hutl'alo ; hut on the way to
till! other |Mjint llieri' was nothinj; but antelope,
dillieult to kill, and |V)or. A collateral eircmn-
Ftanee turned the scale of our delilHratioiifl. 'I'hat
eireuuiRlance was dog meal. We could get a
supply of lhe«! delectable animalH from the Indians;
they would k<'ep life in ni till we could reach Tort
llall; and by aid thereof we could immediately
proceed on our journey, cross the IJlue Mountains
before the snow Bhonid render thcni impassable,
and reach Vancouver on tlu; lower Columbia dur.
in({ the autumn. On the contrary, if we soujrht
meat on the waters of Little ^Snake Kiver, it would
be BO late before wc should be prepared to rcBumc
our journey, that we could not pass those inoun-
lains until May or June of the following spring. —
The (k)gB, therefore, were purchased ; and pre.
paratioiiB were made; for our departure to I'ort
JIall, as W)on as ourselves and imr animals were
Burtieiently recruited for the undertakuig. Mean-
wliile my companions ate upon our stock of bark,
ing mutton. And thus we spent 7 days — dehght-
ful days. l'"or nllhough our fan; was humble and
Bcant}-, yet the tlesh began to creep upon our
skeletons, our minds to resume their usual vivacity,
and our hearts to v.'arm again with the ordinary
emotions of human existence.

'I'he trials of a journey in the Wffltem wilder,
neus can never be detailed in words. To be un-
derstood, they nmst Iw endured. Their etrcels
nimn the physicil and mental system are erpially
prostrating. The desolation of one kind und
another which meets the eye every wliere ; the
sense of vaslness associated with dearth and bar.
renness, and of sublimity connected with ■..■tcrnal,
killing frosts ; and of lonclincBS coupled with a
thousand natural causes of one's destruction ;
perpetual journeyings over endless declivities —
among tempests — throtigh freezing torrents ; one
half the time on foot, with nothing but mocca.
sins to protect the feet from the (linty gravel and
the thorns of the prickly pear along the unl)caten
way ; and the starvings und thirstings wilt the
muscles, send preternatural activity into the
nervous system, and through the whole animal
and mental economy a feebleness and irritability
altogether indescribable. But at Fort David
Crockett tlicrc wero rest, and food, and safety ;

and old Fatlior Time, an li« mowed away the
passing moments and gathered them into the
great garner of the Past, cast up<m the Futun- a
fc w blosBoms of hojK', and sweetened the hours
now and then willi a bit of information alioul
this (Mirtion of his ancient dnininion, I heard
from various persons, more or less acipiaintcd
with the Cokirado of the West, a confirmalion of
the account of that river given in the jounials of
previous days ; und also that there resides at the
lower end ol its grcut kenyon a band of the Club
Indians — very many of whom are seven feet in
bight, and well pro|K)rtioned ; that these Indians
raise large quantities of bln<'k beans U|M)n the
sandy intervals on the stream ; that the oval-leaf
prickly. pear grows there from filteen to twenty
feet in bight; that these Indians make molasses
from its fruit ; that their principal wea|Kin of war-
fare is th(; club, which they wield with ama/.ing
dexterity and lorci> ; that they inhabit a wide ex-
tent of country north-west and south-east of the
lower part of this river ; that they have never
lx.cn subdued by the Spiuiinrds, and are inimieil
to all while people. Subseipient inquiry in Cali-
fornia satisfied me that this river is navigable only
'M\ or 10 miles from its mouth, und that ine In-
dians who live iiiHjn its barren banks near thu
(iulf are such as 1 have described.

'I'he Snakes, or Shoshonies, arc a wandering
tribe of Indians who inhabit that part of the
Hocky Mountains which lies on the Grand and
<.;reeii River branches of the Colorado of tiie
West, the valley of tJrcat Hear Uiver, the habit-
able shores of the Great Salt Luke, a considerable
portion of I'ounlry on Snake River almve and be.
low Fort llall, and ii tract extending two or three
hundred miles to the west of that post. Those
who reside in'the place last named, are said tc
subsist principally on roots ; they howev;'r kill a
few deer, and clothe themselves with their skins.
The band living on Snake River subBist on the
fish ol the stream, buffalo, deer and other game.
Those residing on the branches of the Colorado
live on roots, buffalo, elk, deci, the mountain-
sheep, und antelope. The Snakes own many
horses. These, with their thousands of dogg,
constitute all the domestic animals among them.
They have conical skin-lodges, a few caiiip-
kettles, butcher-knives und gmis. Many of
them, however, still use the lx)w and arrow. In
dress, they follow the universal Indiaii costume —
moccasins, leggingH, und the hunting.shirt.
Nothing but the hair elvers the head ; and this,
indeed, would seem ButFicient, if certain state,
ments made in rel.ition to it be true ; as '.hat it
frequently grows four and five feet in lengtli, and
in on(! case eleven feet. In these instiuices, it ia
braided and wound aroimd the head in the form
of a Turkish turban. If only two or three feet in
length, it is braided on the female head in two
queues, which hang down the back : on the
male it is only combed behind the cars, und lays
disheveled around the shoulders. The female
dress lUffers from that of the male in no other re-
spect than this : the shirt or chemise of tho former
extends down to the feet. Beaver, otter, bear and
buffulo skins, and horses are exchanged by them
with the ArrapuhocB, and the American and Brit.
ish traders, for some few articles of wearing ap-
parel ; Bticli as woolen blankets and hats. But as

Travtlt in the Great Western Prairies,

thrir iitock of dkinH in nlwnvR vory I niitnl, tliry
fiiul il nr('(8K;iry I" 1iiih1i;iii(1 it wilh ii ili'li care to
ohiuiii Ihrrrwilli ii (iiipply (if tobacco, uniiH ami
iiMiiiiiiniliiiii.

I'niiii llir llrKt nrf|iiaiiiliin(.'0 of llir wIiiIcb wil'i
tlii'Mi, IIhw pcoiilo liiivc liciii rrmailcililr liii ilirir

UVd'Hioll to Wlir, liiwl lllOHC <-lll('llil'H Rl C''"''"'' V

pr'iiclircd liy llicir riicf. tf |i('iiiiill((l to live In
jicai't' aiiiori|r their iiioiiiitMiiiN. and allowid to limit
llir Imllalo — tliat wamliriii^j patrimony of all (lie
IriliOH — will ir luTcKHily r('(|iiirtH, tlicy inaUi' war
n|Hin noiii', ami Inni none limi^rrv away from tlirir
limiililc alioilrH. lint IIkkc pcarcalili' dis|H>silioii!<
in the wildiriHsH, wlirrc m< n arc li It to the pro.
tcction ol tlicir impiilHcs ami |ilivNical ciicriricf.
have yicl<lcd tin ni litllc proliclion. Tlic Hlaclt.
feci, Crows, Sion.v and laitaws have allciiialcly
I'oiillht thini for the hettir riLdit to the (Mil Park,
and |Mirlioiis ol their Tcrrilory, wilh varied sue.
CCKH ; ami, at the prewnt lime, do those Irihcs
yearly hi iid predatory parliet- iiilo their horderH to
rob them of their liorNS. I ti it as the passi sllironi;h
which they (liter the Snake eoimtrv are liceomiiii;
more and more dcHlilnte of eiinie on which to mih.
hIbI, their visilH arc Icch freipieni, and their mmiher
IcHH formidahle. !^o thai, for Kcveral years, they
liavc hecn ill a Kreal miasnrc reli( ved In mi tin He
aniioyaniM H.

From the time tlicy met r.ewis ami Clark on the
head. waters of the .Missouri to the present day, the
Snakes linvc opened their lodjres to whites,' with
the most friendly h elintrs. And many are the
citizens of the States, and the siihjcels df Hritain,
who li.ive soii(.'ht their villairi s. and hy their lios-
pitalily hcen saved from death anion;.' those awful
solitudes. \ truest anioii!,' lliem is a sacred de-

I the lipBof n navaijp — (<rii(lB to our rarB tlio start.

[ linu rchiike — '■ .Make not, vend not, jjivi^ not to

I lis the nlriiiiu' )riilrr. Il prostrates your superior

i knowlciliic — your eiilari;eil capacities for liappi.

' iiesH — your eiillivatcd iindcrstandin(,'H. It breaks
\iMir strong' laws; il rols down your stroiuj
houses ; il bnrii s yon in the tilthicst ditch of Hin.

; »Jend it not to IIS ; we would rather die by the

: arrows of the lllaekfcel."

I 'i'he ( 'rows are a wandering' tribe that is usual-
ly loiind in the upper plains around llie head-wa-
tcTB of the north fork of (Jrcat I'lallc, .Snake, and
^'ellowatoiic rivers. 'I'lii ir nunibcr is estimated to
be about .'),lllll). '''hey are represented as the most
arrant rascals aim. i ' ilie mountains. The traders
Hay of tlieiii that " tlicy have never been known In
keep a promise or do an honorable act." iNo while

manor Indian trusts them. .Murdenind robbeiy
are their principal employniciils. .Much of their
comilry is well watered, timbered, and capable of
yieldinir an abundant reward to llii' huKbandniaii.
The Hlack:eet Indians reside on the Marias ami
other braliehes of the .Missouri above the (ireat
l''allH. In 1>JH they u'l nbercd about •J..'il)l) lod^'es
or familes. Diirini; that year, llicy stole a blaii
ke'. iron' the American h'lir Company's steamboat
on the \'ellowsmiie, which had belonircd Ion man
who hail did ol Hi sniall.po.\ on tlii^ passage
lip Ihe .Mis.toiiri. The iiifecteil article beinK car-
ried to their encai.ijrii n upon the "hit hand liak
of the .Missouri.'' sjircad the dreadliil infection
anionj,' the whole tribe. They were am.i/.ed at
the appearance of the disease. The red bloleli,
the bile, cont'cslion of the lnni,'H, liver, and brain,
were all new to lliiir mcdiein.mcn ; and the rot-
ten corpse fallim; in pieces while they buried it.

|>OBil(' of the (Ileal .Spirit. His |nnperty, when! struck horror inlii every heart. In their phicnzy
once arrived within their Ciunp, is iimler the pro. i' and ignorance, Ihey increased the number »( llieir
lection ol' tin ir honor and religions principle, sweat ovens upon the banks of the strea:o, and
And should want, cupidity, or any other motive, ! whether the burning lever or the want ol nervous
t(;mpt any individual to disrc.'anf Ihesi

laws ol
llORpitalily, the property wliii h may have In in
stolen, or its e(pnvaleiil. is returned, and llie
ofTendcr punished. The Snakes are a very iiilel-
li(;cnt race. This appears in the eomrorts of their
homes, their well-conslnicled lodjres, Ihe elcn^anee
and useful form of their wardrobe, their horse.
gear. iJtc. lint more especially do(S il exhibit
itself in their views of Sdisual excesses and other
inimoralilies. These are inhibited by immemo.
rial usages of the tribe. j\or (lo(s their code ol
customs ojieratc upon those wroiit^ doincB only
whic 11 originate amoiiu' a savajre people. A\'liat-
evrr indecency is otl'cred llieni by their intereourse
with the whites, they avoid. Civilized vice is quite
as ofl'eiisivc as that which (rrows up in their owr
untrained natures. The noii.usc ol inlo.xieating
li(|lior is an example of this kind. They abjured
it from the commence inint of its inlroduclion
among them. And they fx'wc llic best of reasons
for this custom : — " It unmans us for the hunt,
and for dcfcndinjr omsclyes against our enemies :
it causes umi.ilural dissensions among ourselves :
it makes the Ciiicf less than his Indian ; and by
its use, imbecility and ruin would conic upon the
Slioshonie tribe." Whatever ditlerence of opinion
may exist ,iinong civilized men on this matter,
these Indians certainly reason well lor tlieni-
selveB, and, I am inclined to think, for all others.
A voice from llie depths of the mounlains~-from

aclion prevailed ; whrlher frantic with pain, or
loltcriii!^ in death, they were placed In them,
sweated profusely and plunged into the snowy wa-
ters of the river. The mortality wliii li followed
this treatment w.is a paralh I of the plague in Lon-
don. They endeavored lor a time lo bury the
dead, but these were soon more mimerons than
the living. The evil. minded niediciii-men of all
aues had eoine in a Isxly from the world of splr.
Its, li.id entered into them, and were working the
annihilation of the Dlaekioot race. The tireat
.•Spirit also had placed the Hoods of his displeasure
bcUvccn liimscll and llieiii ; He had cast a mist
over the eyes of their conjiirors, that they might
not know the remedial incautalion. Tin ir hunts
vvcre ended ; their bows were broken; the lire in
the Great Pipe was extinguished lorcver ; their
graves called for them ; and the call was now
answered by a thousand dyinL' groans. Mad with
superstition and fear, brother for.sook sister ; father
his son ; and mother her sucking child ; and Hcd
lo the elevated vales among the western liights,
where the iiil!uciiees of the climate, operating
upon the already wcll.spcut energies of the dis.
I ease, restored the remainder of the tribe again to
I health. Of the 2,M\) families existing at the tlnio
j the pestilence coinnienced, one or more members
[ of bOO only survived its ravages. And even to
I tliis hour do the Ijoncs of 7,000 or 8,000 Black-
I feci, lie, unburied among tlie decaying lodges of

j'« llic liorky Mounlaini, the Oregon Territory, i\c.

(Jn

tlicir diiiMrtcd villu(j(', on tliclmtikHof llin Yellow,
ntori)'. Hut IIiIh iiijllctidii liaK in no wlur liiiinnn-
izrd their IiIihkI thirdly n.iliirc. Ah rvrr before,
they w«i{e exleriiiiimliii;{ war uimim the truderN
iiiKl trupper 1, iiiil the Oregon liichiinH.

The Arriii)ahr)e« riHidc Hoiilli oT the Sn:ikc». —
They wander In the winter waKon over the eoun-
try aUiiit th< head ol' tht (ireat Kenyon of the
Colorado of the Wist, and to a eoiiHiderahle diH-
tance down that river ; and in sunnner hnnt the
hnfl'alo ni the New Park, or " Itnll Pen," in the
" ( Hd I'ark" on (Jraixl Uiver, and in " Itayoii Sa-
lade," on the Hontli fork of tin; I'latte. 'I'heir
nnniher ix not well aNci rtained. Some extiniate
it lit 3,00(1, otIierH more, and others Htill lewi. —
They are Haid to he a hiave — learleBH, thrifty,
iligenioiiH, and |ioK|>it;diie |ii(i|>le. They owiihir(;e
pnMiherH of liorHeH, nnilcs, iIol'S, anil hIii'|'|i. Tlie
do(;s they fatten undent, lliiiie the name Ar.
rapahiKt) — dojr ral(.r». They Miainifaeture the
wof)l of their Hheep into hianki Ih of a very Buperi-
or ipiulity. I Huw many ol till in ; |hikni hhciI one ;
nnd believe Ihrni to In made with winietliiii); in
the form of a darniin;. needle. They appeared to
he wroiip;hl, in the hrst plaee, like a tisliinfj-nel ;
nnd on this, aR a loimdalion, ilarni d so denHcly
that the rain will not pinetratr them. They are
imnally Ktiipi d or eheeked with yellow and red.

Tliere is in lliih tribe a very eurioiis law of nal.
uralizution ; it is based upon pro|)erly. .\ny one,
whether red or while, may avail liimsi If of it.
One horde, wliieh ean run ■ ■' . t'lllieii iit sjiced tu
overtake a bnllalo eow, and another horse or mule,
eapable of hearing; a paik of ^dU pounds, must
be |)osK<ssed by the appliealit.

'I'liew beiny delivered to the pi-iiiei|)al clilif of
the tribe, and bis intentions bi in}r iiiaili' known,
I e is driland ii eiliz.en of the Arrapaboe tribe,
and entitled to a wife and other bi^jb jirivileges
thereunto uppertaininjr. Thus reeojriiiy.ed, he en-
ters Ujion a lib: ol savajre indepelidiiiee. His
wife takes eare of his horses, niaiiiifaetnreH his
saddles and bridles, and leash ro|MK and whips,
his moeeasins, lejf)riiij;s, and lmntin(,'-sliirts, from
leather and olhir materials prijiared by her own
hands ; beats with a woodi n adz ebisbutlalorolK'H,
till they are W)lt and pleasant for bin couch ; tans
jiides lor bis tent eovi linjf, and drajjs from the dis-
tant hills the clean white.pine poliH to support it;
cooks his daily food and places it be!ore him. —
And shoul.. sickness overtake him, and death rap
at the door of his lodi;e, his sipiaw walebes kind-
ly the lust yearniiiffsot the ill partini; spirit. His
sole duty, as her lord in lili , and as a citizen of
the .\rrapahiie tribe, is to ride the horse which
she. saddles and brinfrs to Ins lent, kill the game
which she dresses and cures ; sit and slumber on
the couch which she spreads ; and light the ene.
mics of the tribe. Their languajre is said to be
esKentially the same as that spoken by the .'^nakes
und Cumaneh(R.

'I'his, and other t.ihcB in die mountains, and in
tlie upper plains, have a custom, the same in its
objects as was the ceremony of the "toga virdis"
among the Koinans. AVben ripened into nuin-
hood, every young man of the tribes is expected
to do some act of bravery that will give promise
of his disposition and ability to defend the rights
of lus tribe and lainiiy. Nor can this expectation
bo disregarded. So, in the spring of the year, those

of the age alluded to, iiMoriatc thcmitelveK tO or

W in n band, and devote IbemselviH to Ibe ilulieH
of man's estate in (he following manm r : They
take leave of their friends, and depart to some se.
eret plaei' near the woodlanilH ; collect jhiIcs '.ill or
.311 feet in length, and raise ihcni in the form of a
cone; and cover the structure so thickly with
leaves and Isnigbs as to secure the inli rior from
the gaze of peisiinH outside. They tin ii hang a
fresh Imllido head inside, — near the top of the
lodge where the poles meet ; and In low this,
around the sides, sinpi ml eamp-kettlcs, scalps,
and blanki'ls, and the skin of a white biiir.do, as
od'erings to the (Jreat Spirit. Alter the lodge is
thus arranged, they enter it withinuch solemnity,
nnd commence the ceremonies which are to con-
secrate themselves to war, and the destruction of
their own enemies, and those of Ihetribe. Tim
first act, is to seal tbcmKclvi s in a circle around a
fire built in the centre of the lodge, and ''make
medicin ;" that is, — invoke thi presence and
aid of protecting syirils, by smoking the (ireat
Mystic I'i|)e. One of the/r nnmlier tills it with
tobacco and herbs, places upon Ibe Isnvl a bright
coal from the lire within the lodge, dra«s the
smoke into bis lungs, and blows it hence through
his nostrils, He then si izis the stem with bulb
hands, and leaning forward, touches the ground
Ix'tween his feet with the lower |)art of the bowl,
and smokes again as before. The feel, und arms,
and breast, are successively touched in ;i similar
way ; and alter each touching, the sacred smoke
is inhaled as before. 'I'be pipe is then passed to
the one on his right, who sniokmushis fellow had
done. And thus the (ireat Pipe goes round, and
the smoke rises and mingles with Ibe voliycotler.
ings to the (ireat .Spirit that air suspended i'bove
their heads. Immediately alter this smoking, is
believed to be a favored ume forolTi ring jiriiyir to
the (ireat Spirit. They jiray for courage, miiiI
victory over their foes in the camjiaign they are
aU)Ul to undertake ; and that tliev may In pro.
teeteil I'loni the spirits of evil.miniled medicin
men. They then make a sok nin and irrevocable
vow, that if these medicin men do not make tin in
sick- — do not enter into tlieii bosoms and ilislroy
their strength and courage, they will never again
see their relatives and Inbe, unless Ihcy do so in
garments stained with the blood of their eiiemifs.
Having paRsed through lliesc eeiemonies, they
ris<: and dance to the music of war cbanis, till
they are exhausted and swoon. In this stale of
insi nsibility, they imagine that Ibe spirits of the
brave dead visit them and teach tb< m their duly,
and inform them of the events' that will trans|iiir
during the campaign. Thrie days and nights
are passed in performing these eeiemonies ; dur-
ing which time, they neither eat nor drink, nor
leave the lodge. .Vt early dawn of the fourth day
they select u leader from their number, appoint n
distant plaee of meeting ; and emerging lioiii the
lodge, each walks away from it alinc to tbejilacc
of rendezvous. Having arrived ti.cre, they de.
terinine whose horses are to he stolen, whose scalps
taken ; and commence their march. They al-
ways go out on fool, wholly dejicndent upon their
own energirs for food and every other necessary.
Among other things, it is considered a great dis.
grace to be long without Jiiiut and the mcunii of
riding.

<■

Travels in Oie Great Western Prairiet,

It somctiiMes liapjjPnB that tlii-sc parties are un-
able to satisfy tho conditions of their consecra-
tion durinfr th-; first season ; and therefore are
coni|)clled to resort to some infjenioiis aiid satis-
fttc'ory evasion of tlic obUgations of tlicir vow, or
to po into winter quarters till another opening
spriiij; allows them to prosecute tlieir designs. —
Tiie trappers relate a ease of this kind, wiiieh led
to !i i-urious incident. A war party of HIackfect
had spent the se;iflon in Siekiiip; for tlieir enemies
witliout HuceesH. The Htoriiis of approaehiiif; win-
ter had hegiui to howl around, and a '.i-ish to re.
turn to the lofj fires and IjulValo meat, and liilari-
ti""-, uiid frididships of the eamp of the tribe in the
high vales of the Upper ^lissouri, had become ar-
dent, wlien a lorlorn, solitary trapper, who had
long resided among them, entered their camp. —
Affectionate and sincere greetings passed at the
moment of meeting. The trapper, as is the ens-
torn, was invited to cat ; and all appeared friend,
ly and glad. Hut soon the Indians became re-
Bcrv .1, and whispered ominously among Ihem-
sclves. At length came to the ear of the trapper
liigh word" of debate in regard to his life. They
all agreed that his white skin indubitably indi-
cated t\at lie ..elonged to tlie " (ireat Tribe of
iheir .atural enemies, and that wilh the blood
ef !• white upon thoir garments, they would 'have
fuI.MIed the terms of their vow, and could return
(o their fi lends .-ind tribe. Rut a i)art of them se-
riously questioned whether the sacred names of
f-:^;'daiid i)rotlicr, which they had for years ap-
plied 'o lum, lei'J not so changed his natural rela-
tionship <o ihem, that the tJreat Spirit, to whom
they had made their vow, had sent him among
them in the character wliieh they themselves had
given him — as a friend and brother. If so, they
reasoned that the sacrifice of his life would only
anger Him, and by no means reheve them from
the obligations of their vow. Another party
reasoned that the (jrcat Spirit had sent this vie.
till! amorg them to test their fidchty to Him. —
\lv had indeed been their friend ; they had called |
him brother; but he was hIho tin u natural ene- i
my ; and that the (Jreat One to whom they had !
made their vow, would not release them at all
from its obligations, if tliey allowed this facti-
tious relation of Iriendslup to interfere with obe-
dience to Himsflf. The other party rejoined,
that although the trapix.'r was their natural ene-
my, he was not one within the meaning of their
vov that the takiiv "f his life woidd he an
rvas,. 11 of its saeicd obligations — a blot upon their
ootirage — and an outrage upon the laws of friend-
ship ; that they could find other victims, but that
their friend could not find another life. The
other party rebutted, that the trapper was con-
fessedly their natural enemy ; that the conditiims
of their vow required the blood of their natural
enemy ; and that the (ireat Spirit had sufficient-
ly shown His views of the relativa obligations of
friendship and obedience to Himself in s nding
the trapper to their camp. The trapper's friends
perceiving that the obstinacy of their opponents
was unlikely to yield to reason, proposed as a com-
proinisc, that, since, if they should adjudge the
trapper their enemy within the reqturcments of
their vow, his blood only would be needed to stain
their garments, lliey woidd agree to take from liini
DO much M might be neccwttry for that purpote ;

and that in consideration of being a brother, he
should retain enough to keep his heart aliv(\ —
As their return to their trilte would be secured by
this measure, little objection was raised to if. —
The flint lancet was applied to the veins of the
white man ; their garments were died wilh his
blood ; they departed for their nation's villagt!,
and the poor trapper for the beaver among the
hills.

My worthy old guide, Kelly, Iiad often seen
these mediein lodges. He informed me that many
of his votive offerings U'fort^ mentioned are pi'r-
niitted to decay with the lodge' in which they are
hung ; that the penalty to any mortal who should
dare appropriate them to his use was death. A
certain white man, however, who had been roblxid
of his blanket at the sotting in of winter, came
upt)n one of these sacred lodges erected by the
young Arrapahoes, which contained, among other
things, a blanket that seemed well cidculated to
shield him from the cold. He spread it over liis
shivering frame, and very unadvisciUy went into
the Ariapahoe village. The Indians knew the
sacred dei)ositc, held a council, called the culprit
before them, and demanded why he had stolen
from the Cireat Spirit .' In exculpation, he stated
that he had been robbed ; that the Great Spirit
saw him naked in the wintry wind ; pitied him ;
showed him the aaered lodge, and bade him take
the blanket. " That seems to l)e well," said the
principal chief, to his fellow. counsellors, " the
(ireat .Spirit has an luidouhtcd right to give away
his own projierty ;" and the trader was released.

Among the several personages whom i chanced
to meet at Urown's Hole, was an old Snake In-
dian, who saw Messrs. Lewis and Clark on the
head waters of the Missouri in 1805. He is the
individual of his tribe, who first saw the explorers'
cavalcade. He appears to have Ijecn galloping
from place to place in the oltice of sentinel to the
ShoBonic <'anii), when he suddenly found liimself
in the very presence of the whites. Astonishment
iixci\ him to the spot. Men with faces pale as
ashes, had never been seen by himself or nation.
" The head rose high and round, the top flat ; it
jutted over the eyes in a thin rim ; their skin was
loose and flowing, and of various colors." His
fears at length overcoming his curiosity, he fled in
the direction of the Indian encampment. Hut
being stM'ii by the whites, they pursued and brought
him to their camp ; exhibited to liim the effects of
their fire-anns — loaded him with presents, and let
him go. Having arrived among his own people,
he told them he had seen men with faces pale i*
ashes, who were makers of thunder, lightning,
&c. This informajion astounded the whole tribe.
They had lived many years, and their ancestors
had lived many more, and there were many le-
gends which spoke of many wonderful things;
but a talc like this they never had heard. A
council was therefore assembled to consider the
matter. The man of strange words was Blun-
moned U^fore it ; and he rehearsed, in substance,
what he had before told to others ; hut was not
believed. " All men were red, and tlierefore he
could not have seen men as pale as ashes." "Tho
(ireat Spirit made the thunder and the lightning ;
he therefore could not has seen men of any color
that eo\dd produce it. He had secnlnolhing ; ''•
had lied to his chief, and should die." At tliia

in the Rocky Mountains, the Oregon Tirritory, ifc.

stago of the procccdiniTB, the culprit produced some ' fleas ; tliat tlic Cohiinhia river was unlit for nau.
of the presents whicli he had received from (lie (ration— fit oidy for an Indian fisli-pond. Such a
pule men. Thcsi- beinfj quite as new to thcin us j dcseriiHion of Orcfron— tlie part of the American
pale faces were, it wasdeterinincd "tliiit he should I domain repre'^ented by traders, trappers, and
have the privilege of IcP-ding his jiidKCS to the | travellers, u^- most delightful, beautiful, and pro-
place where he declared he had seen these strange : ductive— was astonishing, unlooked for, and dis-
people j and if such were found there, he should '| eouraging. And did I not recollect that Mr.
be exculpated ; if not, these liieseiits were to be ' Hichardson had reasons for desiring to increase
considered as conclusive evidence against liiiii, that 'i the strength of his party through the dangerous
he dealt with evil spirits, and that he was worthy jl plains towards the States, I should, after having
of death by the arrows of his kinlolks." The i)ale I seen f)regon, be at a loss to divine the purpose of
men— the thuiider.inakers— w( re loiii.;l, and were ij sueli a representation of it.
witnesses of the ixw.r fellow's story. He was re. ■\ If^tli. Mr. RichardsfMi's ae.scriptions of Oregon
leased ; and has ever since been niueli honored and ;'. had the effect to draw off two of my eonipam(,ns.
loved by his tribe, and every white man in the
mountains. He is now about 81) years old, and
poor. But as he is always about Fort David
Crockett, he is never permitted to want.

CHAPTER VI.

An Arrival from Knrl Hall — An Account from Oregon— Re*
lurn of two of my Co.npanions loilie Siauv— \ Slarlling:
(Jonrliiion— An Indian tiuide— A Karcwfll — How a
Ilorsp .Stofiies Geolojfs'— .A Camp— Dotf Matinn super-
ercedett — A Scene— Slipelsli nipt — Kule^ — Dp&ulation —
IMidnigtit Srenp in \\\i\ IMouiitaini— In('ian .lim and tin*
Buffalo — Hunfjry .^^I'tmaclis — A t'^at Sli'H— Pine Eyesighl
— An Old 'I'rappfr i*icked Up — Bwauiilul Dhshti— "Ho-,
H»s"— Mecli llie Bear Killpr— A ^- d 1 Vile — /imniprnian
WriiiuKs «l. as lliey rnluencnd a Sia-'viiijf Horsp —

*'U fi[ti ugh" — Sleanihoal .Sprinif — Natural St)da

Fountains — \piKhlKirii!}^ Land^Cflpp— A Hard Drivp—
Valley of (Jh-ism — Nature's Vaie— a Heavy March—
Passing the Mountains — Maligniiy — A (ItiarnimK Gorgw
— Entrance iitto Oregon— rii,f South Brancti of the Co-
lumbia— l''ori Halt and iis Ho.pitnlities.

17th. An event of Great interest oeenrred this
day. Ft was the arrival of Paul Uiehardson and
three of his companions from I'oit lliill. Tlilsold
Yankee wooilsnian had been upon one of liis fa.'
Vf)rite suminer trips IVoin St. l/ouis to the borders
of Oregon. He had acted as guide and hunter to
a party of missionarirs to the Oregon Indians. —
Several other pi^rsons from the \v<'stc'rn .'States had
aeeonipanicd them ; One with the lofty intention
of eouiini.'ring Caliloriiia ; and otliirs with the in-
tention of trading. iMrining, &(!., on the lower
Cohnnbia ; anil olhrrs to (-x])lore the Roeky
.Mountains, anil the wiiiidirs oi-Xattire along the
shores of the Paeifie. The events of their tour
were freely ilisensscd. They hat' storms of hail
and Innnaii wrath. The eoni|ueri)r of California
had been disposed to iiet the general before he had
received his epaulettes ; had provei', to be so trou-
blisome that he uas expelled froi.i camp a siiort
distance from the frontier; ae.il obliged to ride,
sleep, and eat, at a eoinfortiiile dislanec from his
companions, during ;lv- lemainder uf the jonrnev.
The missionaries, too, Messrs. .Monger and Grit'-
fith, and their ladies, had had eauses of irritability.
.So thitt, between all the eonflieting feelings and
opinions of the parly, their little camp, it was
said, was frei|Liently lidl of trouble. Oregon also
came under diseiission. Mr Rieliardson had
traveled over the territory; knew it wi'U ; it was
not as prodiietive as New Knglanil ; 15 bushels
of wheat to the iicre was an extraiprdinary crop ;
corn and potatoes did ii it yield thi; seed planted ;
rain fell ineessaiitlv live months of the year; the
remainiler was ui, ksseil even with diw ; that the
Indians and white: residing there, had the fever
and ague, or bilious fever, the year about; that

They had no evidence to oppose to his account ;
he had resided two years in the Territory, and on
the knowledge acquired by that meann, had repre-
■-ented it to be in no sense a desirable place of
abode. They tlierel'ore forsook the chase after a
desert, and joined him for the green glades of tlio
valley States. On the morning of the 18th, they
left me. It was the most disheartening event
which had befi'Uen me on the journey. Oakley
and V.'ood had stood by me in the trials and storms
of the plains — had evinced a firmness of ptir|x)sc
equal to every emergency that had occurred —
were men on whom reliance could be placed — hu-
mane men — always ready to do their duty prompt-
ly and cheerfully. It was painful, therefore, to
l)art with them at a lime when their services were
most needed. .Mone in the heart of the Rocky
.Mountains — a traveler through the range of the
Blackfoot jwar-parties— in bad health — no men
save poor old Ulair, and the worse than useless
\ agabond Smith, alias Carroll, to aid me in resist-
ing these savages. I felt alone. I was indeed kind-
vl otTi red quarters for the winter at Brown's Hole.
But if I accepted them, I should find it impostblc
to return to the States the next year. I deter,
mined therefore to reach the Columbia river that
season, iie the risk and manner what it might. — .
-Veeorclinglv I engaged a .Snake Indian, whom the
whites called ''.Iiiii,"ti) pilot me to Fort Hall —
march to eo'n'H'nce on the morning of the 19tl',
— distance iiOO miles — compensation .^)0 loads of
ammunition, and three bimehes of beads.

There is in this valley, and in some other parts
of 'he mountains, a friiit called bullberry. It is
the most delightful acid in the vegetable king-
dom ; of the size of the common red currant,
with larger seeds than arc found in that fruit ;
color deej) red ; grows npon bushes 8 or 10 feet
high, which in general appearance resemble a
young beech tree. Of these berries I obtauicd a
small quiuitily, had a dog butchered, took a j oimd
or two of dried buffalo meat which Mr. St. Clair
kindly gave me, purchased a horse of Mr. R jbin-
son for the use of Blair, and on the moniing of
the lillh of Augu.st left the hospitalities of V'ort
David Crockett for the dreary wastes and starv'ncf
plains between it and I'ort Hall. Blair, Smu ;
and my guide Jim, eonstitnted my whole force.
.\uinerous war parlies of Blaekfeet and Sioux
were hovering over my trail. If discovered by
them, death w.as certain ; if not, and starvation
did not assail us, we might reach the waters of
\ Snake River. At all events the trial was to Im;
\ le de ; and at 10 o'clock A. M. we wcrc winding

what little of himan life was lelt by these causes our way up the Shcet.-ikadec.
of destruction, wkh consumed by im'.squitocs and '\ Of the regrets ut leaving this beautiful little val-
r

Travels in the Cheat Western Prairies,

ey, tlinre was no one that I remember morn vividly
than that of parting with niy old (fuide. Killy was
a man of many r.xcollcnt qualities, llewas brave
'vithout ostentation, kind without makinp; vou feel
uij obligation ; and preferred on all occaHions the
liappinepsofotherB to his own ease or safety- The
river during the twelve miles travel of the day, ap-
])care(l to be alx)iit 101) yards wide, a rapid eur.
rent two feet deep, water limpid. The mountains
on either side ros(^ half a mile from the. river in
dark stratified masses, 1,000 feet above the level of
the stream, (hi their sides were a few shrub cc.
dars. Tho lower hills were eovcred with the hated |
wild wormw(X)d and priekly pear. The banks
were of white clay, alternated with the loose light
colored sandy soil of the mountain districts. The •
rocks were quartz, red sand stone and lime stone !
Our camp was pitched at night on the high bank '.
of the stream among the bushes ; and a supper of;
stewed dgg me.'jt prepared us for sleep. I

20th. At 7 o'clock in the morning we had
breakfasted and were on our way. AVc traveled
three miles up the east bank of the river and came ■
to a mountain through which it broke its way with
n noise that indicated the fall to be great, and the
channel to be a deep rugged chasm. Xear the :
place where it leaves the chasm, wo turned to the
right and followed up a rough, ueep gorge, the (lis.
lance of tivo miles, and emerged into a plain. This
gorge had been formed by the action of u tributary ,
of Green IJivcr upon the soft red sand stone tha't
formed the i)rcei|)ice8 around. It winds in the
distance of live miha to every point of compass. ;
Along nnich of its course alsothe elifli* hang over ,,
the stream in such manner as to render it impossi- j,
ble to travel the water side. Hence tho necessitv,
in ascending tho gorge of clambering over in'i-
H'enso precipices, along brinks of yawning rav-
e-ns, on paths twelve or fourteen inches in width,
with not a bush to cling to in the event of n false ■'
step. And yet our Indian horses were so well usdl
to passL.i of the kind, that Ihey traveled llie m with-
out (ear or accident till the worst were behind us.

How delusive the past as a test of the future ?
I was felicitating myself upon our good fortun(! as :
the caravan wound its way slowly over a sharp
elifV before me, when the shout from the men
in advance, " well done I'uibla,"' hi'.stcncd mc to
the top of the ridge, My Pmbla murwhadlifl the
track. Instead of fillowing a wide, wcll-beaten
way down the monntnin. she in her wisdom had
chosen to thread the shelf of a chlf, which, wide \
at the place where it H]irnng from tin' pathway, i
gradually became narrower till it was lost in the!
|)erpcndieular face of the .Mountain. She was un- :
der a high bulky back at the time, and before she
had qiute explored the nethermost inch of the in- i
teresting stratum she hpi rjied dis|)oscd to trace to its
lowest dip, the centre of gravity was suddeidv
thrown without liie base : and over she reeled, anil
Tcil ten or twelve leet among broken rocks, and
rolled and tumbled (illO feet more of short periten-
dicular descents and inclined plains into Ihe "(ream
below. On descending and axaminingher. 1 found
her horribly mangled — the blood rinuiing from the
nostrils, cars and oilier parts of the iHidy. As it ,
was apj)arent she would sijin die. I stripped her of i;
'-'r packs and gear, drove her to a jjlat of grass *
where she could IiikI food, should kIio need il, and i
left Jier to ber fate. i

': This accident being disposed of we emerged from
this gorge, traveled over barren gravelly plains dot.
' ted with pyramidal hillsof the same material, whose,
sides were belted with strata of coarso gray sand
stone. About ■! o'clock P. M., Jim halted beside a
: little brook, and pointing ahead said " wat, ugh,
u — gh;" by which I understood thatthe next water
on our way was too far distant to be reached that
: night ; and we encami)ed. The scenery to the west
I was very beautiful. An hundred rods from our camp
in that direction rost; an apparently perfect pyra-
I mid of regular stratified black rocks, alwut 601) feet
in bight, with a basilar diameter of about 800 feel,
and partially covered with bushes. Beyond it
some ■")()0 yards, crept away a circling ridge of
; the same kind of rocks, leaving a beautiful lawn
; between. And still beyond, GO miles to tho south-
west, through a break in the hills that lay in clus.
. tcrs over the intervenuig country, a [Kjrtion of the
I Anahuac Kangc was seen, B\i'eeping away in the
direction of the (ireat Salt Lake.

Jim had turned his horse looso as soon as he saw
we were di.^posed to encamp according to hi.s
■ wishes, and was away with his rifle to the hills.
In an instant he was on their higlits, creeping
stealthily among the bushes and rocks, and tho
crack of his rifle and the tumbling of somo kind
of game over th(^ elift's immediately succeeded.
More nimble and sure of step than the mountain
goat, ho sprang down again from clill" to clifl'
reached the plain, and the next moment was in
camp crying " hos, ugh, yes." I seiTt my horse
and b.'-ought in his gauK — a noble buck antelope
of about forty ])ounds weight. In consequence
of this windfall our dog meat was thrown among
the willows for the behoof of the wolves. My
guide, poor fellow had eaten nothing since wo left
the Fort. His tribe have a superstition of somo
kind which forbids them the use of such meat.
A " dog eater'' is a term of reproach among them.
If one of their number incurs the displeasure of
another, he is called "Arrapahoe," the name of
the tribe I)l■eviou^ly described, who fatten these
a ninials for some great annual feast. Jim's
creed, however, raised no objections to the ilesh
of his antelope. He ate enormously — washed
himself neatly — combe<l his long dark hair —
pulled out his beard with right thumb and left
fore finger nails, and "turned in."

2i«t. Twenty miles to-day. The ride of the
forenoon wasover plains and hills of coarse gravel,
destiliu. of grass, timber, or brush, the every
wheii.: present wild wonnwo<id excepted. That
of the alternoon was among broken liills, alter-
nately of gravel and brov.n sand, ben: and there
dotted with a tuft of bunch grass. From some
few of the hills protruded strata of beautiful slate.
The Imltom lands of the river even, were as bar.
Ten as Sahara. The only living things seen, were
the small prairie wolf and flocks of magpie. This
bird inhaiiits the moat dreary portions of the
mountains, and seems to delight in making tho
parched and sil<nt deserts more lonely by its
oruinons eroiik of welcome to its desolate habita.
tion. Tlie raven, indeed, was alioiil us throwing
liis funereal wing u|)on the light of the setting
sun. In fine, lo.day, as often belbre, I tbuntl
nothing in nature from which to derive a singlo
pulse of pleasure, save the vnstncss of dosolate
wastes, the tombs of tho waslungs of I lie Flood I

in the RocTcy Mountains, the Oregon Territory, 9^c.

Near night, howrvfr, wc were gratified to fiud a
few dfcrppid old cotton-wood trees on the bank of
the Shertskadco among which to encamp. Onr
horncF having liad Htlle food for the last 48 hours,
devoured with eager appetite Iho dry grass along
the banks. Since leaving Brown's Hole, our course
had been nearly due north.

M<1. 'I'raveied u)) (Jrcen River about three
miles, crossed it three times an<l took to the hills
on its western side. The course of the river as
fur as seen in this vail, y, is nearly wiiilli ; the hot-
torn and banks generally of gravel ; the face of
the country a dry, hiirren, imdidating plain. Our
course, after leaving the river, was northwest by
north. Alwut 2 o'clock we struck Ham's Fork,
a tributary of (ireen River, anil encamped near
the water side. This stream probably |)ours down
immenso Imdies of water wlien the snow niella
upon the neiglil)orin(r highlands ; for its channel,
at the place where we struck it, was half a mile
in width and iiOO feet deep. Very little water is
said to run in it in July, August and Sej)teniber.
The current was three or four inches in depth,
a rod wide and sluggish. Tliree bules appeared
in the northeast, about \'i o'clock, 15 miles dis.
tant. One of them resembled a vast churi'li, sur.
mounted by a perp( iKhciiliir sliafl of rock, jiroba-
bly 3U0 feet in bight. The swelling base ri'sein.
bled in color the sands of this region. The rock
shaft was dark, i)robably Imsalt. Wy the side of
this, springing immediately from the ])l:iin, rose
anolbcr shaft of rock, about KIO feet high, of
regular outline and aliout lo fiet in diameter. —
Seven or eight miles to the north rose another bute,
a perpendicular shaft bW or fiO feet in bight, rest-
ing uiHJii a base of hills which rise alK)ut .300 feet
above the jilain. lieyond tluse biites to the east,
the country sccincd to lie an open plain. To the
south of Ihi'in extends a range of dark mountains
reaching far into the dimly-disceruCTl neighbor-
hood of lAiiig's I'eak. The whole circle of vis-
ion presented no other nn-iins of life for man or
beast than a few siiuill ]ialeb(sof dry grass, and
the water of the stream. .'\I;my of the sandy blull's
wire covered with the prickly pear and wild" worm-
wood. Generally, liowivcr, nothing green, noth-
ing but the burnt unproduclive waste ajipeared,
which no art of man can reclaim. Vet far in the
north, the snowy peaks of ^\'ind Hivcr .Moun-
tains, and to the southwest a porlion of the Ami-
huae. ridge, indicated that it might be possible lo
tiiid along the borders of tbis great grave of veg.
elation, green vales ami purling brooks lo allevi-
ate the desolation of the scene.

Wc traveled I'l miles to-day and enenmpod
npim the bank of the stream ; cooked supper
and wrapping ourselves in our bl:mk<ls, with
saddles lor pillows, and cuit,'iiu''d by the
starry firmament, slept sweetly among tbi^ over-
hanging willows. i\ear midnight the light of
the moon arousid me. It was a lovdv iiighl.
The stars se<ined smaller than tiny do in
less elevated situations, but not less iHiiulifid.
For, although ihey are not so brilliant, they burn
Hieadijy, brightly on the hours of night in thi>se
magnillcent w;istes. I( was miilnighl. The
wolves are correct time-kee|s-rs. I bad scarcely
viewed the delightful scene iiroimd me, when
tbes<' sleepless sentinelH of the deserts raised their
midnight liow . It rung along the chambers of

' the mountains, was at intervals taken up by ken-
nel after kennel, till, in the deep and distant vales
it yielded again to the all-pervadins; silence of
night. This is one of the habits that instinct has
taught their race. As soon as the first light of
morning apjiears in the east, they raise a rcveilli'
■ howl in the prairies of the Western States, which,
keeping company with the hours, swells along the
vast plains from Te.\as to the sources of the IMis.
sis.-,ippi, and from Missouri to the depths of tlic
lioeky Mountain.:. All day they lurk in silence.
.\t imdnight anetl 'r howl awakens the sleeping
wilderness— more horrible anil prolonged ; and ii
is remarkable with what exactness tliey hit the
hour.

23d. We were u|) this morning before the light ;
and while the sun rose in the (irnat Gap, mounted
our jadc'l horses for the d.ays' ride. As we moved
onwa- ijion the elevated blntT"s which l)order the
rive., the light of the morning showed the biites
clearly on the eastcm horizon. Jim paid little
regard to the course of the stream to-day ; but
struck a bee live for sonii^ object, unseen by ii«,
across the hills — at times among wild wormwood,
at others among sliaqi, flinty stones, bo tliickly
laid over the ground that none but an Indian
horse would travel over them. We occasionally
approacbi'd the stream, and were gratified with the
appearance of a few solitary old cotton-wood
trees on its banks. A |ioor, stinted shrub willow,
too, made great efliat here and there lo prolong
existence, but with little success. Even in one
little no(jk the wild rose, currant and bulllicrry
bushes had the ctVronlcry to bear leaves. About
•1 o'clock, P. .M., small patches of dry grass wore
seen in the ravines. On one of these were five
buft'alo ; but they proved to us mcro delightful
to the sight than to anv other sense ; since I was
unable to induce mv guide to halt a' id hunt them.
Tbis apparentiv unpardonable slul bormiess was
afterward explained. lie had tli > only animal
which could. run fast enough to ipproach thein
— he al'ine cfiuld ride him — and I aviiig lost bis
right tbmnb, pretested that he coul I not discharge
his |)iece from a iMinmig horse, hut liaving no
inle;-|neter with us t" render his furious protesta-
tions intelligible, I atl'-ibuted bis unwillingness to
lay in a supply of good meat hereto mere mali-
cious indiflerence. .\' 5 o'clock we came upon
a pl.it of excellent gra'S around a clump of yellow
pines. Near tbis, v-cary and hungry, wo made
onr camp lor the night ; ale the half of Ilia
meat in our jiossesH.on — a mere mite — and gorged
ourselves with wild 'urrants, which grew plentiful-
ly among the pines, u itil the darkness bade us cease.
Course as ycsteribn ; the hutes out of sight dur-
ing the aften>' ,11. We siijilKised we had trav-
eled 20 mil' s ; wpiither exceedingly warm.

21lli. Uodeon a fast Irol tillalioiit ."! o'clock, I*.
>r. sialic almut 2.') miles. Our route lay over
sar dy and gravelly swells, and the bottom lands
of Ham's Fork; the latter, like the former, were
well nigh destitute of vegetation. \\'hen alxmt
to encamp we had the excellent fortune to espy
an antelope on a blull'hard by. He fell before the
well-levcleil rillc of our one-thumbeil guide. .\
fat one he was loo ; just such an one an the ini-
aginalioufl of our hungry slomacln hail, all the
day, licen figuring to themselves would aff'ord a
plcusttnl variety in the matter of starvation. The

Travels in the Great Western Prairies,

circle of vision, tlie last day "r two, had biTii
very niuch rir('u:iis('rlbed by llio liirrfasini; sizo
o, the umliiUitiiii; liluIVs, anioiiir which our way
usually ran. And from thtir tops, whenever we
chanced to (JO over them, neither (he Mind Kiv-
er Mountains nor tlie Anahuae Kaiifre were visi-
ble. In all direelioMS, lo the limit of siirht, rolled
away the dead, lealUess. thirdly swells. Wolves
and ravens live anionir iluin ; lint whenc' they
dcr'vc subsistence is a diHieuK |ir(jblem even for
themselves to solve. Tlieir houlinifs and iToak-
ings evidently came from famished mouths.

!25th. Fifleen miles to-day alon;; tlie river;
course as on the 2ltli, X. W. by W.. .imonu the
bluffs that border the stream. ( >r if that were tor-
tous, we traveled from bend lo bend over Ibe table
lands on either side. In the valley of the stre;.m
small groves of yoimir and tlirilty eotton-wood
trees, currant bushes, and Ibe hIaeU alder, irave us
hopes of soon seeini;; Ibe grasses and tlouers, and
the cool springs of Ihe highlands, between us and
the Great Beaver River. The day, iiowevi r, was
sultry ; scarcely a breath of wind moved ; the dust
that rose from our track lay on the air as the
smoke of a village does on a still May morning. —
So that these occasion.d apiiearanees of vegetable
life imparted less pleainire than they would have
done if we had been able to see them through ano-
ther medimn than the dripping mud, manufactured
from dust and ])ers]iiralion. Xear mid-day. we
crossed Ibe river Irom its northern to its southern
side, and were emergiuir from the bushes whieb
entangled our egress, when Jim, uttering a shrill
whoop, pointing to a solitary horseman urLnni; bis
horse up tlu' bluff an half mile belowus. Meekon-
inghimtons, we dismounted to allow our ja<led
animals to feed until be should arrive. In the
style of a true mountaineer, he dashed ii]) 'o us on
a rapi<l galloj), greeted us with as lie;n'ty .; fX ake of
the hand as be could have bestowed iijmn i bro-
ther, and asked our names and destinition ; said
his name was " Madison (Jordon, an iiide[)eiident
drappcr, that he was bound lo UroWn's lie le for
his Hijuaw and ' possililrs.' and was glad to sc ns,"
in less time than is usually <niployed in saying half
as much; and accepting an invitation to encamp
with us. he continued to express bis pleasure at
seeing us till our attention was diverted from him
by a halt for the nii;ht.

These remnants of the gical lrappiii!r parties
of Ihe American Fur Company, eommoidv inaki'
Hrown's Hole their winter <juarters. Indeed I be-
lieve the owners of that post to be old Irappirs of
the Company, who, having lost all Ibeir relish lor
former habits of life, bv a loni; 'esidencc' in ihc
mountains, have eslabhshed themselves there in
order to bring around them, not only the means
of subsistence according to their tastes, but their
merry old eoinpauions with their tales, jests, and
songs, and honest ami brave hearts. (Jordon.like
all other trappers whom 1 saw in the mountains,
was convinced that tbere were so few beaver, so
little meat, and so many dangers ami iig lliein,
that '• a white man bad'no business there." He
therefore w.is going for bis s(|Uawand " possibb'S,"
pri'paratoi'v to dc siaiidinix llie Cnhimbia lo open a
iarm in the valley ol Ih. Willamette. He said
that was also the mtenlion of nearly all his IVIlow
trappers. They pio|)<jsed to take with them their
Indian wives and chiklrcn, settle in one nciglibor-

liood and cultivate the earlli or hunt, as inclination
or neeessilv might suggest, and thus |)ass the even-
ing of their days among the wild pleasures of that
delightful wilderness.

ytilh. Course northwest; distance :JI) miles;
some times on the banks of the river, and again
over the swells to avoid its windings. The' eouii-
Iry tbrongh which we passed to-daj-, was in some
respects more interesting Ib.aii any we had seen
siuc<' leaving liiinvn's Hole. Instead of plateaux,
baked and lliuly, or hills of loose nn))roduetive
lf>am and sand, shorn by perpetual drongbl of
tlower. shrub and tree, a journey of 'JO miles over
whieh would hardly cross grass enough to feed a
do/.di horses a single day, Ihe slopes of alhousand
spherical bills, as green as Ihe fields of the Slates
in .May, sent I'orth the sweet fragrance of teeming
ve(retation; littli' stn'ams ran away among tin'
black, white iiiid oninge pebbles; and the dande-
lion, anemone, and other flowers rejoiced in the
spring day breezes which cre|)t over them. It was
.May indeed here. The snow had 1 ilily disap.
peared, and Ibe r.iins had still later been falling as
tlu'v do in April in other places. The insects were
pipini; Ihe note of an opening year. It wastlic
dividing rid^fi' between !!''• tributaries of the ."^beet-
skadee and llnat Hear Rive. ; and yet not a ridge.
When viewed from its hii^best points, it .appeared
an elevated |)lateau of slightly conical swells, so
raised above the vast deserts on Ihe east of it, as to

I attract moisture trom the clouds. The soil of Ibis

' region is however poor, not sullleient to bear tim-
ber. The grasses (rrow rankly over most of its sur-
face ; and those jiarts which are barren, are cover-
ed with red or white sand, thai contrasts beauti-
hillv with the matted green ofother ])ortious. In

I a word it was one (jf those places among the moun-
tains, where all i.^ pure. There Ibe air is dense —

'the water cold — the vegetation fresh; there Ihi:
snow lies nine months of the year, and when it

'evenluallv flees before the warm suns of ,lune

■ and .lulv, the earth is clothed with vegetation al-
inost in a dav. Alioul sunset we deseendi'd a

' sharp declivity of broken rocks, and encamped on
a small steam running north. My indefatigabb'

j.lim Shosbonie killed an antelope tor our suppers.

; An unexpected favor this. l'"or, from tlie repre-
sentatious given me of this part of my route, 1 ex-

' pei'ted to commence here, a long consuming fist,
which would not he broken till I reached Fort Hall

j or my grave.

t!7lli. Our last niglifs encampment proved to
have been on a branch of Ihe Great Bear River —
the principal, if not the only feeder of the Great
Salt Lake. AVe started down alomj' its verdant
li'ile valley about 7 o'clock 'ii the loining. and
reaehid Ihe main river al)ou* 2 .tl. It was 211
vards wide — water two feet ( " and transparent,
enrrmt four miles ])er hour, ' m of brown sand
and gravel. .V Iter feeding our;': als we descended
the river till 1 o'ckick. and ha' on its banks for
the nii;lit. We had traveleil ..() niibs. 'I'lie
mountains which beinmed ill the valli y weii'
generally of a conical form, prill itive, and oflen
verdant. Their height varied from ;")I10 to 2,")ll(l
feet above the level of the stream. The Imtloin
lands were from one lo three miles wide, of a loose,
dry, gravelly soil, covered with withered bunch
grass. By the waler-side grew various kinds of
trees, as quakingasp, black biieh and willows;

in the Rocky Mounlains, the Oregon Territory, c^r.

;ilao shrubs oi' various kinds, as llio black alder, I
small willow, wild wormwood, liliirk (Mirraiit and
service biTi-y. In the ravines of the inoMiituins
gloves of trees sometijues a|i]ieared peering up
luxuriantly aiuougthe blaek projef'liui; elill's.

i28tli. An early risinir, a luirried meal, and a
rapid sadillinf; and paekin<r of horses, started us
I'roui eamp at (i o'i'loc'k. While };ir(lin|r our sad-
die animals — the last act iloue in breakiuir up
eamp in mountain life — Jim's eajrle eye diseerned
in the distanee down the river, '• bos, hos." Indian
like, for We had bet^ome sueh in our habits, we put
new eapsoii our rifles, inoinited ipiieklv, and eir.
< led out behind a barricade of brush-wood in order
to ascertain the number, color and purpose of such
unoen^nionionsintrndt^rs ii|K)n the territories of onr
solitude, .lim ])eercd Ihrou^rh the leaves with the
utmost intensity of an Indian's vision. It was the
[dace for war-parlies of Crows, Sioux and Black-
Ic'-t ; and Ibis early a[i|iearanee of individuals '
a])proaebin;r our camp, was a circumstance that
scented stroti^dy of bows and arrows. Hut sus-
pense became certainty, a pleasant certainty, as .
.lini reined his horse from concealment and <;al.
loped away to the slranjrer, now within rille shot
of us.

A si ron|r and warm shake of the band and vari-
ous conlortionsof the face and uncouth ifcslnresof
reco;rnition between IIkui, eompleti'd their inter-
view, anil the swarthy old trapper apjiroaebed my-
self and na'ii. fie was no less a personayje than the
bear killir. Meek, who li(p;nres in the St. Ijouis
.Museum, with Ihepawsof iin innuense ^rrislev hear
upon his shoulders in front, the liny:ersand thumb of
bis left hand bitten otV, while with bis ri^dit hand
he holds the hunti'r's knife, plun;;cd deeply in the
.■uiimal's juijul.il vein. He accosted me with
" (iood niornintf, how are ye 7 stran^jer in the
mountains, (h :'" And before I eould make a
inonosyllibie reply he continued " Have you any
meat .' ( 'nine, I've got the shoulder oi' a <;oat,
(anteloi)i'.) let ns go back to your eamp and cook
and cat, and talk awhile." \Ve were biuiiessed
for the day's ride, and felt unwilling to lose the
cool hours of the morning ; and much more so, to
eonsumo l]\r generous man's last |)omid of meat.
'I'hanking him therefore for bis honest kindniss,
we Silislied him witii our refusal by the assurance
that we had meat, and had already" breakfasted. —
<>n hearing that we wer.' traveling to the Colum-
bia river, be informed us that we might probably
go down with the Xe/ierees Indians, who. be
slated, were encamped at the lime on Salmon river,
one day's journey from Fort Hall. He was on his
way to Rrowai's Hole for his sipiaw and "possi-
bles," with IIk' design of joining their camp. —
These Indimis would leave their hunting grounds
for Iheir liomis about ten days from that date.—

This was is another renm int of the American
I'ur Company's trapping parties. Ileeame to the
mountains inanv years ago — and has so long asso-
eiiited with Indians, Ih.at bis manners nnieh re.
sembb' theirs. The same wild, unsettled, watch-
ful expression of the eyes ; the same unnatural
gesticulation in eojivirs ition, the same unwil-
lingness to use words wlion a sign, a contortion of
the face lu- body or movmnent of the hand will
manifest tbonc;;.:; in standipig, walking, riding —
in all but eo;nplexion be was an Inchan. Uidding
us good morning and wheeling away to tiic day'n

ride, ho said, " Keep your eye Bliining for the
' Blackfoet. They are about the 'Beer Springs;'
; and slay, my while lioi.sc tired, one camp down
the river; was obliged to 'ciirlic' my pack and
leave him : use bim if you can, and take him on
to the Fort; and look here, I have told you I am
, .Meek, the bear killer, and so I am. Bui I think
the Iwys at the museum in St. Iiouis might have
done me up as it really was. The beast only
'jumped on my back ami stri|)ped oil' my blanket ;
scratched sijme, hut diiln't pull my sbouldcr blade
1 ofl". Well, after be had robbed mo of my blanket,
, I shoved my rille against bim and blew out his
heart. Thai's all — no fingers bitten off, no knillng ;
I merely drove a little lead into his palpitator."—
So saying he spurred his weary animal to a trot,
and was soon I'.idden among the uiuicrbrnsh of the
intia-vales. Aleek was evidently very poor. He
bad scarcely elotbing enough to cover his body.
', .\nd while talking with us the frosty winds which
' sucked up the vally. madehimshiver likean aspen
leaf. He reverted to his destitute situation, and
.i complained of the injustice of his former employ-
ers ; the little remuneration he bad received for
till! toils and dangers he had endured on their ac-
, count, &.C. ; a compliint which I bad heard from
every trapper whom I had met on my journey. —
The valley opened wider as we pursiu'd our way
along its northern side; the soil, the water and
vegetation much the same inquantitj' and (piality
. as those which we had passed on the dTth. The
'' mountains on cillier hand spread into rocky pre-
eiliitous ridges, piled confusedly one above another
in dark threatening masses. .Vmong them hung,
in beautiful wildness from the crevices of the
cliUs, numerous shrub cedars. The mountain flax
was very abundant, and ripe. The root resem-
bled that of perennial plants — the llbrea that of
the annual hluebowl of the States, the flower the
same, the seed vessels the same ; but the seed«
themselves were much smaller, and of a very dark
brown color. This valley is the grain fiidd and
' root garden of the Shoshonie Indians ; for there
grow in it a niunber of kinds of edible roots, whieb
Ibey dig in August, and dry for winter use. There
is also here a kind of grass bearing a seed of half
the size of the eonnnon rye, and similar in form.
This they also gather and pareli and store away

I in leather sacks, for the season of want. These
Indians had been gathering in Iheir roots, &.C. a

' few days ])revioiis to our arrival. I was informed,
however, thai the crop was barely snllicient to
subsist them while harvesting it. But in order
to prevent iheir ( neniies from finding whatevi r
might have escaped their own search, they had
burned over large sections of the most productive
part. This day's ride was estimated at 30 miles.
(.)iir camp at nighl w as in a dense copse of black
alders by the water.slde. -Vte our last meat
for supper. No prospect of getting more until we
should arrive at Fort Hall, four days ride.

20lli. Fp with the .Sim and on mareh. .\flcr
an hour's ride we came upon Meek's while horse.
He came to ns on as fast a gallop, and wilb as
noisy a" neighing, as if /.immerman had never
dipt bis (piill in solitude, and wrote the laws for

; destroying nature lor nature's good. .lini now
put spur to bis noble animal with the regularity of

.\ the march of the tread.nhll. .\ud by w.ay of

II aijology for Ilia liaste pointed to the ground, and

Travels in the Great Western Prairies,

laying his liead on nnf ehoulder and Bnoring, mid
"u — gh, ugh;" wliich being intcrprete<I? mo.int
that our next snoring plac^ was a very, very loisg

Ulissomi, would of theniRolvfs intprr*t all who aie
witnrssing thf irrfoistible movements of civiliza-
tion upon the Amrrican rontinent. Put thisfpot

day's journey away. And our acquainted with I has otherobjects of interent : Itsticolopy and its
Indian firmness, would have rr;.d in his coimte. I Mineralogy, and I might well say the Chemistry
nance while making this eonuuunieation, a detci. j nf it, for thire arc labcriloricfl and gases hero in

mination to reach it before night-fall, whatever
might be the consequences. And so wc did. At
Bunset our camp kettle was bubbling over the bones ;
of a pelican at the " Steamboat spring." The |
part of tlio valley seen to-day was generally covered ■
with a stout coat of bunch grass. This and other !
indications led me to suppose it fiTtile. And yet I
it appeared questionable if it world yielil the or- [
dinary fruits of agriculture without being irriga- '
ted. I noticed however during tlic day's ride a :
number of points at which the waters of the river
might be conducted over very large tracts of ex. ;
cellent soil. The scarcity of fencing limber ap- ;
|)eured an 'obstacle, certainly, but other than this
tliare seemed to me no considerable eauso of doubt
that the valley of tlic Great Bear River will, in the
course of time, become one oi the most prosperous
abodes of cultivated life. Its situation, so remote
from either ocean, only mcrcases our expectation
of such an event, when it is recollected that the
most practicable wagon route Ix'twcen the .States
and Oregon Territory and the Californias, runs
through It. '

The north end of the the Grt.it Salt Lake is 30
miles from our present oncampment, and the luouu-
tains on the Iwrdcrs of the valley are more abrupt
and craggy, the water of the stream more abund-
ant, and the soil more productive, than in the part
already described. A number of creeks also entering
the main stream from the a East, open up among

the greatest profusion will hcrcaflcr occupy the at-
tention of the lovers of these sciences. Tlio So-
da Springs, called by the fur traders Ueer Springs,
are the most remarkable objects of the kind within
my knowledge. They are situated on thc'north-
w(,'flt side of the river, a few rods below a grove of
shrub cedars, am. altoul iiOO yards from the shore.
There are six j^roups of them; or in other wordn,
there are si-x small hollows sunken almut 2 feet be.
low the ground around, of circidar form 7 or 8
feet in diameter, in which there .area number of
foun'aina sending up large quantities of gas and
water, and emitting a noise resembling the Iwiling
of ij.uneuse cauldrons. Tlu^se (kjoIs arc usually
clear, with a gravelly bottom. In some of them
however, grow Iwgsor hassocks of coarse grass,
amor g which areiuany little wells, where the wa-
ter bubbled so merrily that I was teniptcdlto drink
at one of them. But as I ])roc(feded to do so, tlu^
ButVociiing properties of the gas instantly drove
me from my purj^ise. After this rebuffhowever, 1
nuule .mother attempt at a more (.pen fountain, and
('••anic with little ditViculty. The waters appeared
to bo more highly impregnated with soda and acid
than those of .Surotoga ; were extremely pleasant
to the taste, and fumed from thestomaeh like the
soda water of tlie shops. Someof them threw oft' at
least 1 gallons of gas a second. And although they
cast \\\i large masses of water continually, for which
there appeared no outlet, yet at diflcrcnt times of

tlie black hights a numlx-r of lesser and channing ! observation I could perceive no iiu-reaseor dinumi-

vales; and around the union of the river with tho
Lake there arc excellent water, soil and limber, un-
der skies of perpetual spring. (.)f the Lake itself
I heard much from diflcrcnt individuals who had
visited diflcrcnt portions of its coast. The sub.
stance of their stat«ments, in which they all agree,
is that itis about 200 miles long, 81) or 100 wide ;
the water exceedingly heavy ; and so salt, say they
in their simple way, that pieces of wood dipped in
it and dried in the huu are thickly frosted with pure
white salt; that its coasts are generally com|)osed
of swells of s.and and barren brown loam, on whic'li
sufllcient moisture does not fall to susi ain any other
vegetation than tho wild wormwood and jirickly
pear ; that all attempts to go around it in canoes
have, after a day or two of trial, been abandoned
for tho want of fresh water; that the (ireat Bear
River is the (july considerable slreani putting into
it ; that high land is seen near the centre of it ; —
but whether this be an island or a long peninsula
there was a difl'erence of opinion among my infor-
mants. The valleys of the (Jreat Bear River and
its Iributariee, as well as the northern portion of the
Lake, arc Bup[)oscd to be within the territory of the
States.

The immediate neighborhood of our encamp-
ment is one of the UKist remarkable in the Rocky
Mountains. The facts that the trail to Oregon and
("California will forever of necessity, pass within
300 yards of the place where our camp fire is
hurmng ; that near this spot nmst be ercctcrl a rest-
ing place for the long lines of caravans between
thoWborsof the Pacific aud tha waters of the

lion of the quantity visil)le. Thereare fivcor nix
other springs in the bank of the river just below,
I wliosi' waters resemble those I have described. One
' of them discharges alx>ut 111 gallons a minute.
I One fourth of a mile down stream from the So-
I da Spring, is what is called " The Steamboat
1 spring."' The orifice from which it casts its wa-
] ler is in the face of a perpendicular rock on the
i brink of the stream, which seems to have l)een
tri-uod by the depositions of the fountain. It is
8 mches in diameter. .Six feet from this, and on
the horieuntal plane of tho rock, is another orifice
in the cavern below Onajiproaching the spring,
a deej) gurgling, hissing sound is heard under-
I ground. It apiKam to he |)roduced by the gener-
1 at ing of gas in a cavernous receiver. This, when
' the chamlier is filled, bursts through another cav-
j ern filled with water, which it thrusts frcithing and
j foaming into the stream. In passing the suiallcr
I orifice, the pent gas escapes with very much Ibr-
i sanu' sound as steam makes in the escape-pipe of
I a steamboat. Hence the name. The periods of
I discharge an- very irregular. At times, they oc-
' cur once in two. at others, once in three, four or
five minutes. The force of its action also, is sub-
ject to great variation. Those who have visited
jj it often, say that its noise has been heard to echo
far among the hills. When I visited it I could
not hear it at the dislaiice of 200 yards. Then'
is also said to be a difl'erence at diflcrcnt times in
the truiperature of the water. When I examm-
ed it, it was a little al)ove blood heat. Others have
Been it nuicii higher.

in the Rocky Mountains, the Oregm Territory, etc.

The most rsmarkablo phenomenon connected
with those nprings, remains vet to bo noticed. —
Tlic whole river, from the ifitoambont spring to
the Soda npringB, a distance of more than a fourth
of a mile, is a sheet of Hprings, thousiinds in
number, which burst ing throujrh two foot of su-
perincumbent running water, throw thoir foaming
jets, some six inclies, and whuoIoks, above the sur-
face. The water is mueli the same in its con-
Htitucnt qualities, as that of the Soda Hpritigs.

There arc in the iimuediato vicinity of the
Steamboat spring, and on t)ie opposite side of the
river nunierouH rockH with orifices in their centres,
and other evidences of having been formed by in-
tennittant springs that jiavc long ago ceased to
act.

The scenery around these wonderful fountains,
is very wild. To the east northeast, opens uji the
upper valley of Cirerit Bear River, walled in on
either side by dark primitive mountains, beetling
over the vale, and towering on the sky. To the
south southwoet sweeps away the lower valley. —
On either side of it, rise lofty niountainsof naked
rocks, whose wild sublimity contrasts strikingly
with the sweet beauty of the stream and vale
below.

And although statemcnt.'i in regard to what
shall transpire in the future, arc always a work
more befittmg a seer than a joumabst, yet 1 can.
not forbear expressing the belief that the hcalthi.
ness and beauty of tlicir locality — the magnifi-
cence of the scenery on the best routes to them
from the States ami from the Pacific, the mani-
fest suporioritv of these waters over any others,
will cause •' The Soda Springs" to he thronged
with the gay and fashionable of Imth sides of the
continent.

30th. Our sleep had been interrupted at mid-
night by the blazing fires of an Indian encamp-
ment on a neighboring hill. Andonce awakened
by such a cause, the tracks of a war party, prob-
al)ly of Blackfeet, which we had crossed during
the day, were sufficient to put us on duty the re.
mainder of the night- At early dawn, we sad.
died and moved in silence a few Inmdrcd yards
down the river turned to the right around the
Bute in the roar of the Steamboat spring, entered
the " Valley of chasms," and soon brought the
moiuitaiuH on its northern border between us and
our suspicious nrighlx)r8.

This valley derives its name from the numerous
cracks or chasms in the vulcanic rocks on which
it refits. They arc so wide and deep that the na-
tives, for many miles at the lower part of it, have
been obliged to run their trail over the lower
swells of the hills on its norlhwoRteni side. I'p
tills trail Jim rode on a brisk trot, beckoning us
in an ominous manner tn follow, mid keep in a
body near him. The " cut rook" and scoriir lay
evsry where, and crippled the [loor anitiiala at al-
most every step. Onward he led us, with all the
speed which the severest inllietions of spur and
whip could produce, till the shutting in of night
depoiifcd us among the willows on the stream of
the valley 40 miles from our last night's encamp-
ment. The rapidity of our traveling to-day, al-
lowed me little time to examine this singular val.
ley. I noticed merely that it was, like the inter.
vales of Bear liivcr, covered with bunch grass
which the thirsty «uns of eummcr had dried to i

hay. A curious gas spring also attracted my at-
tention al)out !) o'clock in the morning. Its bub-
bling and its beautiful reservoir appeared to arouse
the admiration even of my dogged guide Jim :
he halted to look at it. V'rs, It was even so. —
Jim, for the first time since I had had the honor
of his acquaintance, absolutely slojiped to look at
and admire a portion of the earth. It was u fine
specimen of Nature's masonry. Tin; basin was
alx)ut six feet in diameter; the bottom a circular
horizontal plane ; around the edge rose a rim or
flanclie, eight inches in hight ; all one solid rock.
In the centre of the liottom, arose the gas and
water: the latter was six inches deep, limpid, and
slightly acid. This fountain was situated a few
rods to the right of the trail.

31st. We took to our saddles, and in throe
hours reached the fool of the mountains which
divid« the " Valley of chasms" troin Snake
River. There is a wide depression through the
hights hereof so gentle a declination, tJiat loaded
wagons can pass from one valley to the other
without difficulty. I'p this we turned. It was
covered with green grass and shrubs and trees ;
among wliieh a little brook was whispering to the
solitude. The small birds, too, were chirping
among the bright flowers and bending Ixjuglis;
and on either hand, as if to guard so much lovo-
linoes from the winds of surrounding desolation,
the black crags rose and frowned 1,500 feet in
air. But himgcrl ! Every bud was fed ; every
bird had its nourishment ; the lizards oven weru
not starving. AVo wore. AVhen alxmt half way
up the gorge, one of Smith's horses tired and re-
fused to go farther. The lellow's wound, received
in the plains, had healed; and with strength from
time to time, his petty tyranny towards his animals
increased till being entirely recovered, hesoomedto
h^ve resumed a degree of malignity toward them
whenever they did not obance to comprehend his
wishes or were unable to comply witli them, that
would be incredible if described. In this case,
he cut a strong gad ; and following the slow steps
of the worn-out animal, struck her lengthwise
over the almost denuded ribs as frequently and a?
long as he had strength to do it ; and then would
rest and strike again with renewed vengeance,
until his boast dropped her heed and received his
blows without a movement. Remonstrance, and
the astouishod gazing of my savage guide, only
increased his severity. And thus he continued to
beat the poor animal, till, being convinced against
bis will, that he even coiild not make a dying
horse heed his command, he bestowed upon her a
farewell kick and curse and left her.

.\l)Out four o'clock wc stoorl on the high ground
which divides the waters of the little biiKik which
wc had followed up, from a small head stroaiii
of I'orlnouf. 'J'lie valiuy of the groat southern
branch of tlie Coluinl)ia, was spread out before us.
•Slaking our thirst at a cool spring, we traveled
five miles down the mountain, and encamped in
sight of tlie Trois Hutos. When we halted, I
was too much exhausted with hunger and fatigue
to unsaddle my horse. We bad been on short
allowance most of the time since leaving Fort
David Crocket. The day on which we arrived
at the Soda .Springs, I ate the eighth |)art of a
pelican ; the two last jiast days, nothing. But 1
sutlergd le«i» iivm tltc gimwings ul hunger than I

Travels in the Great Weslern Prairies,

had on the previous iiiRht. A deadly stuiwr per-
viidcd the gastrin and nin-ous systeniH ; a slug-
gish iielion of till; heart, a dimness ol' vision and
l)ainful prostration of every energy of lifi: were
creeping upon me. Alter a little rest, however, I
crept to the bushes, and altera long search, found
two red rose-buds ! These I gladly ate, and wrnt
to my conch to dream of feasts.

The Isl of September wan a tine day. The
tiun was bright and unclouded, as he came in his
strength over the eastern mountains, and awak-
ened us from our shnnbers among the alders on
the bank of Portneuf. [lunger, indeed, was still
gnawing at our vitals, lint sleep had banished
weariness, and added something to the small stock
of on- remaining strength ; iuid the recollection
of past perils — peril. i of Hoods, of tempests, of In-
dian foes — deatli threatened at every step during
a joumey of three months in the plains and
mountains — the inspiring view of the vale of the
great southern branch of the Columbia, so long
;)romised us in hope along our wcarv way — the
fact that we were in Oregon, unmoored the mind
from its an-victies, and shed over us a gladness
that can only be compreheuded by those who,
having sulTered as we bad, have viewed as wo
did, from some bright bight, their sulTerings ended,
in the rich, ripe possession of the objects so ar-
dently sought. We were in Oregon. Fort Hall
lay in the plain before us. Its hosi)italities would
be enjoyed ere sunset. Our wardrobes were over-
hauled, onr razors jint on duty, our sun-burnt
frames bathed in the Portneuf; and equipped in
our best, our hearts beat joyfully back the r.qnti
clattering of our horses' hoofs on the pavements
of the inoimtains, as we rushed to the jdains. An
hour among the sands and wild wormwood — an
hour among the oozing si)rings, and green grass
around them — an hour along the banks of iSap-
tin River — and we jiassed a line of timber spring-
ing at right angles into the plain : and belbrc us
rose the white battlements of Fort Hall ! Aa
we emerged from this wood, Jim intimated that
W'C should discharge our rifles ; and as we did so,
a single armed horseman issued from the gate of
the Fort, approached us warilv, and skulking
among the copses, scanned us in the most inquisi-
tive manner. Having satisfied himself at last
that our skins were originally intended to be
white, he came alongside ; and learning that we
were from the States ; tliat we bad no hostile in-
tentions : that we knew Mr. Walker to be in the
Fort, and would be glad to have our compliments
conveyed to him, he returned ; and IVIr. Walker
immediately appeared. A friendly salutation was
followed by an invitation to enter the Fort; and
a " welcome to Fort Hall," was given in a man-
ner so khid and obliging, that iiothiiig seemed
wanting to make ns feel that we were at home. A
generous flagon of Old Jamaica, wheaten bread,
and butter newly ehurned, and bull'alo tongues
fresh from the neighboring mountains, made their
appearance as soon as wc had rid ourselves of the
e(|uipage and dust of jomncying, and allayed the
dreadful sense of starvation.

CHAPTER VII.

TliH Rocl»y Mountains and llit-ir .Spurs— (Seograpliy of ilie
Miiuntiilii Ucifion — Wyelli— PippaiaiKiHS Mailc — Tlir
(tuUci— Tlif Bi-nvrrCaiclii-rs Briili — Trni« B Ics— Adrli.
linn liom a Minaalery— Orihouf— A Mfrry Mnuntam
Trapprr— Kiwt Dignf tk— EcKinuons Sprinj;*— Volcanic
HpariliM and <;im»in-.— Carho— An olil Clilei— A BinfT—
Boi~ai» Uivcr— Incidrnt of Trade— The Bonalis— Tlir
Dpail Wai!— Furl Boisais, lis f^almon, Bultcrand Urarly
Cliepr— Mnn« Paydlf— Curinsliy— Depariurc— I'a-slnij
Ihi- BluH Mnaalains— Tlie Uranilenr of Tlicni— Tliclr
ForPMs, Fiiiwprs and Torrenu— Decent ot tlje Mountains
—Plain, n (Uirisllan Cranr— Aniv.il at Dr. Wlilirnan'4
Mi!.iii m— Wailawalla — Pcoplr— Firm— Mill— Lriirnini;
TIioukIii— UrIiKion— Mr. KrniiiinKir— Blair— Nez Prrces
— K:icine;— lijilian Ilorie Training— !<al>batli and itujnys
in llie Wilderness.

It will not be uninteresting while pausing here,
and making jireparations to descend Snake, Lew-
is, or Sa()tin river, to lead my readers back over
that portion cif my journey wdiich lay among the
mountains. I do not design to retrace my steps
here, however, in order again to attempt a des-
cription of siifl'erings which can never be dea-
eribed. They arc pasi ; and let their remem-
brance die. But a sneeint account of the region
lying west of the -Vnaliuac ridge, and between
latitudes 3!) and -12 degrees north — its mountains,
its|)lalns, its rivers, See, will, I persuade myself,
be new, and not without interest to the reader.

James's Peak, Pike's Peak, and Ixmg's Peak,
may be called the outposts of a lofty range of
rocky mountains, which, for convenience in des.
cription, I have called Long's Range, c.xteniling
nearly due north from the Arkansas, in latitude
30 degrees, to the Great (iap in latitude 42 de-
grees north.

This range is uncomieeted with any other. —
It is separated from the Wind River Alountains
by the (jreat Gap or Great Southern Pass, and
from the (Jreat Anahuae Range by the U])|)er val-
leys of llie Arkansas, those of the South Fork of
the Platte, and those of Green and Grand Rivers.
Two spurs spring oft' from it to the west : the one
from James's Peak, the other from Long's Peak.
. These spurs, as they proceeil westward, dip low-
I er and lower till they terminate — the hist in the
rough cliH's around the upper waters of the Ar-
kansas, and the latter in spherical sand-hills around
the lower waters of Grand River. The Anahu-
ae Mountains were seen from about latitude 39
degrees to 42 degrees north. This range lies
about 200 miles west of Long's Range, and be
tween latitude 30 and 40 degrees, has a
general course of north northwest. It appeared
an unbroken ridge of ice and snow, rising in some
points, I think, more than 10,000 feet above the
level of the sea. From latitude 41 degrees it
tends to the northwest by west, past the north-
eastern shore of the Great Salt I,ak<' to the north-
ern I'ud of it ; and thence westwardly to a
point south of Portneuf, where it unites with the
range of the Snowy Mountains.

The Snowy Mountains are a transverse range
or spur of the llocky Mountains, whieh rim from
the Wind River Mountains latitude 42 degrees
i north, in nearly a right line to Cape Mendocino,
I latitude 40 degrees, in Upper California. Many
I portions of this range, east as well as west of Fort
I Hall, arc very lofty, and covered with perpetual
1 snow. About 100 miles from the coast of the
j Pacific it intersects that range of snowy peaks
I called the President's Range, vvliich comes down

in the Rocky Mounlaint, the Oregon Territory, etc.

Irom ruRPt'd sonn'l, nnd trrniinaIcK in (lie arid '
pliiind nbout tlio moiilli of tlio ( ^olor.vdo of thi^
WfhI.

The Wind Rivor MountninH iirr n spur which
Bhools from tho ({real iiorllKTu I'hairi, roniinonly
called the RiM'l\y i\Ioiinlain!<, in laliliidc lU do-
l^reeH and odd niiniilcH north; and rinniiu!; in a
wnilheaHterly threction inlo the (iroal Prairie Wil.
dcrnoHs, forniH the nnrllicrn wall of lUi: (Jrcat (iop
or (iroat Soiilliern Pans.

On tlic norlliern Hide id' the Win<l River Peaks,
lire the BonrcPH of .lefleraon, Madison, and (ialla-
tin Rivers' on the Honlhcaslern nide riwH the
Sweetwater, the nortliweatennnoHl branch of the
North Fork of tlie'ireat Platte ; on the southern
Hide the Slicctskade<', or (Jrecn River, tlic north,
em hruneh of the Colorado of the West ; on the
northwcalerii side and north of the Snowy Moun-
tainn, aprinj; the Saptin, Snake, or LewiH River,
the (jrcat southern hraneh of the Columbia.

On the western side of Long's Ranfrc, rises the
Grand River, the prineijial branch of the Colora.
do of the West. It furniphes lour times tlic quan-
tity of water that Green River does. Further
south, in the vicinity of James's Peak, and on
the west side of this range, rises the South Fork
of the Great Platte.

Close under tlic eastern bi\se of the Anahnac '
or Great iMain Range, and ncjirly in latitude 39i i
degrees nortli, arc the sources of tlic Arkansas. |

The immense parallelogram lying within these ;
ranges of mountains, may be dcscribeil by saj'ing!
that it is a desert of arid plains and minor moun- 1
tains. And if this general appellation be cpiali- 1
fied by the accounts given (m previous pages of:
Uoyou Salado — Old Park, &c., very small por-
lions of the whole area — the dcscrii)tion will bo
complete.

Fort Hidl was built by Captain Wyetli, of Hob.
ton, in 1H32, for the purposes of trade with the
Indians in its vicinity. lie had taken goods into
the lower part of the Territory, to exchange for
salmon. Hut competition soon drove him from
his fiBheries to this remote siKit, where he hoped
to be perinitted to purchase furs of the ludiana
witlioiit being molested by tlie Hudson Ray Com-
pany, wliosc nearest post was seven hundred
miles away.

In this lie was disapixiinted. In pursuance
of the avowed doctrine of thai comjiiuiy, that no
others have a right to trade in I'urs west of the
Rocky Mountains, while the use of capital and
their incomparable skill and perseverance can i)re-
vent it, they established a fort near him, preceded
him, followed him, surrounded him every where,
and cut the throat of his pros|)crily with such
kindness and [lolileiiess, tliat VVyelh was induced
to sell his wlioh: interest, existent .and prospeciive,
in Oregon, to his generous but too indefatigable,
bkilful, and powerful antagonists.

From what 1 saw and lieard of Wyeth's man-
agement in Oregon, I was impressed with the
belief that he was, beyond eoniparisoii, the most
talented business-man from tlu! States that ever
established himself in llie Territory.

The busine.''» of this post consists in exchang-
ing blankets, ammunition, guns, tobacco, &c.,
with the neighlioriiig Indians, for the skins of
the licaver and land otter ; and in furnisliijn;
wiiilc men with traps, liorgcs, Buddies, bridles,
n

provisions, &.c., to enable them to hunt these ani.
inals for the Iwnefit and sole use <d the owners —
the Hudson Itay Company. In such cases, th«
horses arc loaned witiiout price ; the otiier arti-
cles of the "oiillit" sold on credit till the termina-
tion cd' the liiinl. And the only seeurity which
the company requires (or the return of their ani-
mals, is l\u: pledge of honor to that cH'ect, and
that the furs taken shall be appropriati'd at a stip-
ulated price to the payment of arrearages.

Goods are sold at this establishment .'iO per
cent, lower than at (lie American posts. NVhilo
trap|M'rs arc paid a higher jiriee for their furs than
is paid the Iiiilians ; are charged less for the goods
which lliey receive in exchangi' ; and arc treated
in every respect by this shrewd company witli
such uniform justice, that the American trappers
even are fast leaving the service of their country-
men, for the larger profits and better treatment of
British ciiii>lijyinent. There is also a company of
men connected with this Fort, under the com-
mand of an American mountaineer, who, follow-
ing various tribes in their migratory cxpeihtions
in the adjacent American and Mexican domain,
collect whatever furs may chance to be among
them.

Ity these means, and various others subsidiary
to them, the gentlemen in charge of this trading
establishment, collected, in the summer of 183t>,
more tiian thirty packs of the best beaver of the
mountains.

We spent the 2d and .3d most agreeably with
Mr. Walker, in his hospitable adobie castle — ex-
changed with him our wearied horses for fresh
ones ; and obtained dried butKalo meat, sugar, co-
coa, tea, and corn meal, a guide, and every other
necessary within that gentleman's power to fur-
nish for our journey to Wallawalla. And at 10
o'clock, A. ^I., of the Itli of September, wc bade
adieu to our very obliging countryman, and took
to our saddles un the trail down the desert banks
of the Saptin. As we left the Fort, we passed
over the ground of an allray, which originated in
love anil terminated in death, ^es, love on the.
western di cdivity of the Rocky Mountains I and
love of a white man for a murky Indian dainc !
It appeari^d, trom the relation 1 had of it, that a.
certain white trapjur had taken to himself a cer-
tain bronze damsel of the wilderness to be liis
slave-wilV, with all tlic^ solemn ceremonies of pur-
chase and payment for the same in sundry horses,
dogs, aiiil loads of aminuiiilion, as required by
the custom in such alVaiis governing; and that
by his business of trajiping for beaver, ite., ho
was, soon after the b.iniiK were proclaimed, sepa.
rated fro ii his belovi'd one, for the term of three
months and upwards, much ag.imst his tender in-
eliiiatiiiii and interest, as the lollowing showeth :
For during the term of his said ab.scncc, another
white man, with intent to iiijure, iVc, spoke cer-
tain leiulcr words unto the said trapjicr's slave-
wife, whiih had the elleet to alienate from him
the piiridiased ;iiid riglilfully possessed atrecUions
of his slave-spouse, in t'avor of lier seducer. In
this said condition did the beaver-catcher find his
bride when he came in from the hunt. He loaded
his rifle, and killed the robber of his heart. Thr
grave of the victim is there, a warning to all who
would trillr with the vested rights of an Ainericau
trapper in the love of an Indian beauty.

Travels in the Oreat Wcslern Prairies,

W« made rV)ut Ion milcii, and Imltcd for the
night. Our guido disolaycd himsrif ii fivo fent
nine inch ^Inut Walluwnllii. JIc had hrcn in the
ecrvico of the IIikIboh Uuy Company many years,
and win, conneqiiently, nHHiduoiw nnd dutiful. —
Yen. consequrnlly bo. For nritlier liidiiui nor
white man is long in their tcrviep without Iciirn.
ing hiB phicc, luul heconiuig active nnd fuithlulin
doing liiH (hit)'. Ab Boon us wo entered camp,
our pack-horscs were Btripjied of their Imrdcns,
mid turned loose to teed; wood was gathered, and
« fire blazing lUiiler the kettles, and " all out
door»" uumedialuly rendered hh comfortable tons,
ai skies ipatigled with stars, and earth strewn
with snowy sand could he made. WalUiwalla
was a jolly oddity of a mortal. 'J'lio frontal re.
jfion of his head had been pressed in infancy most
mrigtneralically into tho form of tho (ierinan idi.
ots ; hia »y*B w*r* forctd out upon the corners of
lh» htad; nii nose bugged the liico closely like a
Ijuiich of atreciioiiato leeches ; hai." black as a ra.
vcn, and fl(/ ■ • over ii pair of herculean slioid-
ders; and fc but who can describe that which
has not its like under the skies. .Such was ( 'ar-
l)o, our I'tdiiiuriu over tlie burnt plains of Snake
River.

The abort rido of tho day, had shown us tho
■western limit of tho |)artial fertility alK)Ut I'Virt
Hall. The earth iiad begiui to be nd, burnt, and
barren; grass sparse and dry ; the shrubs and cot-
ton woods stinted and shrivelled.

The ])laiii of the 'I'rois Uutes is situated between
the Snowy niomitain range on the soulh, and an.
other ridge which, diverging from it al)ovu the
«ourccB of 8aptin llivcr, follows that stream down
to tho Uluo Mountains near Wallawalla. 'Ibis
plain, by experiment, is found to be 8,000 feet
above the level of the sea. In the vicinity of
the post, there is an abundance of gra.^s for tho
eubsistiiicc of many thousands of animals. The
soil in various parts of it, idso, appears well
adapted to tho eultivatioTi "i the small grains and
esculent roots. Hut the tact that frosts occur a|.
most every month of the year, shows the extent
to which the arable sections can be ren<lcred
available for such purjwscs.

The Trois Butcs riso on tlie plain 1.') or 20
miles cast of tho Fort. They are pyramidal
peaks, probably of volcanic origin, of i.',IIOO feet
in bight alwve tlic plain — and l'j,000 feet above
the level of the sea. Around their dark bases
grow evergreen trees; from their sides burst small
brooks, rendering verdant strips of the jdain which
radiate beautifully in all directions from them ;
and over all, during most of the year, bang their
crests of glittering snows I East of the Butes
vegetation continually decreases till it ceases in
tbc black crags which embosom the head streams
of the river.

On the 0th traveled 30 miles down the western
bank of the river ; soil sandy and volcanic, l)ear
ing wdd wormwood — in fact a desert ; crossed a
number of small streams putting into the Sajitin;
on these a little bimcb of grass and a few alders
and willows tried to grow, ^\'hile biuting sit
noon, we were agreeably Burj)rised with un addi.
tion to our company, of n young .Swiss trajiper,
eight years in the mountains ; he Iciuned the silver
smith business when in youth ; afterward entered
a monastery and studied Latin &.c. for the order

of Priests; ran away from the monastery, entered
I the French army, deserted, eauu to Ametira;
j sickened, was visited by n Roman priest who had
I been a classmate with him at the monastery; and
having had a more niunerouH fanuly than was re.
quired by the canons of bis order, had tied to
j America where his orisons would not be disturbed
by tlic cries of infants. On Ins entering our
I trapper's cbamlxT they mutuilly recognized each
other ; nnd horror immediately seized the pious
jiriest at the rccollrelion of the lrnp|ier's sinful-
ness: aim particularly the sin of lorsaking thr
holy places of the niotlur church ; of taking car-
nal weajKins in hands that had been einiiloyed in
making crosses in the sacred jirecinets of tbc
cloister, 'i'lie trapper bad contracted the danger,
ous habit of thinking for himself, and replied to
the godly man in a sharp and retaliatory manner;
and among other things drew a very ungracious
comimrison between escaping from prayers nnd
chants, and fleeing from an unlawful lainily. —
This reference to former delin(|uencies in a eoun.
try to which he had tied to escape the remem-
brance of them, aroused the holy indignation of
the jiricst to such an extent, that he iimnediately
consigned the witness of his fault to worms, and
nnd his sjiul to an apprenticeship at tire eating in
purgatory. Hut our liapper had become a here,
tic 1 la the blindness of iiis heart he had forgot-
ten that the iwwcr to save and destroy the soul of
man, had been committed to an order of men
chosen and set apart as the repositories of that
portion of OmnijHiteiice ; and that whatever er-
rors of conduct may occur in the life of tliese
men, the elHciency of the anatheniutizing and
saving (!onimisBion is not thereby annulled ; and
be rose from his bed and burled at the jiriest sun-
dry counter anathemas in the form of chairs and
shovel and longs ; and he of the consecrated
gown left him without the benefits of his [mtent
absolution. I could perceive in him no rctuniing
belief in the (Jmnipotenl key of the " Itoman
Citbolic n|)ostolical mother church." Instead of
Siiying bis prayers and counting the beads of bis
rosary, be talked of the stirring scenes of a trap-
per's hfe, and recounted the wild adventures of
the moimtains. Instead of the sublime 'J'e Deuni,
he sang the thrilhng martial airs of his native
land. Instead of the crosier, he bore the faithful
rifle. Instead of the robes of sacred oflice, be
wore the fringed deer skin frock of the children
of the wilderness. He was a trapper — a merry
mountain trapper.

Gtli. Twenty-five miles to-day ; face of the
country, black, hard and barren swells ; encamped
on a small tributary of the Snptin , very little
grass for the animals ; found here a family of the
Root Digger Indians ; the man half clad, child-
ren naked, all filthy ; dirt lay in nodules on the
woman's face and ears, .she was clad in a
wrapper of mountain sheep skin.

7th. Twenty miles. About mid day heard a
loud roaring of waters ; descended the cliaBm of
the ri\(r and discovered two enormous springs
bursting from the basaltic clifls of the opposite
shoie. Their roaring was heard three miles. The
lower one discharged water enough to turn the;
machinery of 20 ordinary manufactories. I'lic
water I'oamed and rushed down inclined plains of
rocks the distance of SOO feet. The ooiuitry, an

in lite Ttoilnj Mountains, the Oreqon Territory, etc.

uii(liiliitln({. bnrrfii, volciinic plnin ; ncur tin: rivrr
cut into IiIuIIh; lava ivrry wliiTi" ; wild woriii-
wiHiil HiHJ iinntlirr Hliriililwo feet in hitflil hiiiriii},'
a yrlloiv liloHHom, tlic only wihmI hcoii ; niduiipcd
on n mn;ill Btrcani iilxiul lliron iiiilrii from llir
rivcT, I'oiiikI here Ww. only (;''•'*'" olwcrvt'd dur.
inp llif (lay.

Will. Still on llic wiHlcrn Imiik ti( tlio Knptin ;
river oMi-roiirth of a niilo wide; wairr cxtrcincly
cloar; current fivu nulcH the hour; dcptli of wa-
ter ahoul. four ficl. On tliiMiiHtirn nidi', the Koil
a[>()(arfd a dark miiihh of iinhcddid fused rock,
Ntri'tchinK in brnkeii iiiidulatiunH to llic^ diutunt
higldnntlN. In that dircelion )lt) iiiileii, lay n
run^eiif nioniitainH like an irrejruhir line of dark-
ncHH on the horizon. ICvery thin;; tonehed hy
our horK(~M feet elaimed a voleuiio for itn hirtli-
plaee. Thirty niiU's to-day.

!)tli. l*'aee of the eountry the same aH that
passed over on the t^th — soareely fjrass enoujih to
feed our aninialH, and that dried to liay. The
mountams on the west side of the river gradually
neuring il. No tinilier since we left the iinine.
iliale vicinity of Fort Hall. \Vc eorjkeil our food
with the willow hushes which the Indians liad
killed and rendered dry for such purposes. All
the rocks more or less fused ; many lar(fr tractH of
lava; u inimher of clear little hrisiks lnd)lilin);
over llic cinders of this }{reat hearll- of Xalun^'s
tire. Made 10 miles.

I lltli. l''illecn miles over " cut rock" and worm.
W' "id deserts ; and at mid-day dcscciulcd about
GOO Icet in the chasm of the Saptin, and traveled
alonf the brink of the river u short distance,
crossed at a place called " The Islands," to the
eastern shore.

The river has been dipj)in); deeper in tlic plain
the last tlirce days. A bird's eye view of it for
sixty miles almvc the Islands would present a tor-
tuous chasm, walle<l liv ba.salt, trap, &c.,audsui>l'.
aloiiR the centre ol the valley, from 100 to b ji; ]
feel deep, a black ehasm, destitute of timber and |
other evidcucesol fertility, from acpiarter to half a
mile in width. In the ernlrc ol the bottom rushes '
the Saptin ; over rocks and (jra vel a clear, pure, '
htroufj stream, with a current of five miles to the '
hour: water three and iour feet in dcjilli. Trav- i|
eled seven or eiffht miles from the lord .-md fell in L
with ciifht or tcnspriuffsol limpid water, l)id)blin;; ',
thronKh the llmty crust of ihe plain. 'I'lie sun
was pourinj^r upon ii.s liis fiercest rays, and our,
thirst was excessive. A haltinj;, dismonntiii^'and i
riisliini; to the water, the application of onry^iant's r
lips to the li(|ui<l — a paralysis olhisthirstproduccil '
by Ihe boiling; hot sensation whiidi it im|)arted to |!
liis swearing- iij)i)anitus. prepitrc<l \is to resume our '
ride. Hot spring's, lH)ilinir jiot — no apparent min- 1
oral properties. I

I I til. Traveled to-day .').') miles over an irri'^n- i
lar, rou;;li, imscemly desert ; volcanic stones !
strewn every where on a black, impenetralile, ,
baked surface ; soil too poor lo hear the worm- |
wood — trail t(H> far iMsl lo see the river. At 10 i
o'clock met a jietly eliief of the .Snake Hoot Mifj-
jrers and his son on horsehaek, from Jtoisais river. I
He was dressed in a hlankct coat. <lccr skin pants, |
and moccasins (raruished with cutplass heads and
Btrips of red llaimel ; the boy entirely naked. — I
Carbo having learned from him the situation of i
his tribe, a. few bits of Indian scandal, that wc |

could reacli Doisais river the noxt day, llml wc
could prohably obtain fiisli liors<-8 there, hid copper,
colored highnesH was Icit to pursue his way to Fort
Hall to (ret his (rims repaired, and we continued
oumlo the lower Coluinhin, togct outof thimfravo
of dcHol ition. I had not Rccn an acre of land since
leaving l-'ort Hall capable of producing the grains
or vegelnblcB. Kncaniped on a small brook run-
ning westwardly towards the Sa|)lin.

l^th. On route at (I o'clock of the morning ;
liorscH weary and cripplini' pitifully on the "cut
rock;" face of the eomitryaliBolute sterility ; our
trail near the mountains, aliout !JIIO iiiiles east of
the Saptin. At '.) o'clock caiiK^ lo the bhifl'over-
liMiking lloisais river. Here the valley is sunken
six or seven hundred feet; the wh<ile of it below,
to Ihe limit of sight, appears to have suhsidcd
nearly to a level with the waters of the Saptin. —
Lines of timber ran along lla^ lloisais, the plutk of
green grass and slirubH doited its banks. Tlic
mountains, whence the river came, rose in dark
stratified ridges. Where the stream escaped from
them there was an immenst! chasm, with perpcii
dicular sides, which seemed to open into llii'ir
most distant bases. Horrid crags Ix-etlcd over iln
dismal depths. I^ifty, rocky ridges extended far
into the north. In the west and northwest towered
the nine .Mountains. We descended the bluff,
followed down the lioisais three or four miles, and
crossed the river into an encampment of Snako
fishermen. They were emjiloyed in laying in their
winter store of salmon. .Many liorw's were feed-
ing on the plain. We turned "urs loose ulso for a
bit( I the fresh grass, while we liought finh, &.C.,
and made other arrangements lo improve digestion
and our speed in travelling. Ami our businens
was transacted as follows : For ono large fish-
hook wc bought one salmon ; for one paper of vcr-
million, six biiinhesof spawn; for one butclicr
knife, one leatlu rii fish rope. Curbo cxclianged
horses ; <lis])oscd of one worth five shilhngs for one
worth three, iiiid gave a blanket and ten loads of
ammuiiilion as l«)ot. He was vastly pleased with
his bargain, ami endeavored to show himself so, by
trying to grin like a white man ; but he was not
skilled in the science of manufacturing laughter,
iind made a deplorable failure of it. One of my
own horses, whose feet were worn and tender, was
(xchaiiged with like profit to the shrewd jockies.

These Indians arc more filthy than the Hotten-
tots. They eat the vermin from each other's
heads I Uotli sexes were nearly naked. Their
shelters were made with rush mats wrapped aromid
cones of poles.

Having finished our trading, wc traveled aliout
ten miles <Iowm the stream and cncamiicd upon its
hank. The plains were well covered with grass;
many (lortions seemed susceptible of cultivation.
The bed of the river presented the usual charac-
teristics of a mountain torrent ; broad, shallow,
with extensive bars of coar.se gravel crossing the
channel in all directions. The water limpid; and
its quantity might be expressed by saying that tho
average depth was six inclus — width ten yards —
rale of current three miles an hour. In the month
of June, however, it is said to hring from its ma-
ternal mountains iiiimense Hoods.

I3tli. A hreakliist of iKiilcd spawn, and on
trail at sunrise ; traveled rajiidly down the grassy
intervales of Boisais ; passed many email groves

TraveU in the Oreal Western Prairici,

of liiiilMT. Many Inriiund cinpldyrd in drying I' Swinn Irupiicr wan llic vrry ninn U> (frapplo tho

nalninn, nearly iinkrd, iijid dirty, and niiwralilr,
ran iiflcr iik (nr tnliaccd, and to Iradc linrKrf. All
IndlaiiK have a mania liir lini'tcr. They will Irndc
liir i;>Mid nr ill lo tlirniKclvrn, at rvi ly opportunity.
Ilriclhry licHtl iiH on cvrry Hide. And il'al any
nioijK lit «•<• lM|;an to I'rliritatcoiirHclviHon liavinn
at list, cKcapcd lioni tliiir atnioying prtllioiiB lor
'- xlnnokc" and " Ihih," tiic next iiiMincnl (he air;
woiilil rcHonntI vvilli wliipH and lioofH, and
"tiliinokp," " Hliiiiok<'," " lioH," I'roni linlladozcn

dilriiuna. Ilr lirilird tlinr |roo<' ^id niid th«ir
Fair rnndiict to the I'nrt. Vwr or six of llicm
ipiirkly scir.cd liorBrfi, and, nioimlimj wit'.ont
daddlc or hriillr, lr<l tlir way. Wliih tlicHi-
lhini,'H were htinj; done, horrid wniln ca'iio lioni
their hiitx ainoni; t'"' hnnlirH. .\nd t!iow! who
were with uh reH|Hiiidotl lo tlieni. The only
word iiltiri d was one whieli wmnded like ' yap.'
ThiH they »poke at firiit in n low, plaintive key,
and hIowIv ; and tlien, on a higher note and

new appllcanln more lrniililenoine than their pre. rapidly, as if under Blron(;er eniotionH id (jrief ;
dcccHKorH. No .l( w with old elothen ami a piiieli. ' and tlien fill away n|»ain to the low plaint of
beck wali-h lo Hell, ever pressed eiiHlonierH with | deHponding donow. I notieed, iih we rodii aloiij;,
more iiBHidiiity than did tlieBc savn(;.'S. Ilul when that the tiiilh of many of tlieir liorBcH were Bliorii
we had traveled nliout Ml) mile« from our niirhl of the hair in the nioNl mieouth manner. 'I'lin
ramp lliey all middeidy disappeared ; and neither ; nianen aim were nuKeralily haj;(Tled, Tlio mm
hut nor ShoHlionie were Men more. Tlieydarennt wlio rode them \.ept, and at intervalH waded. I
pasH the houndary lielwren theniBelveH and the ] was afterward informed Ihat their tribe wan mourn,
nonaks. 'I iiig the death of wime of their mniiber who had

Soon after bein^; relieved from tliene pests, our i lately died ; and that it is ii custom with them
i;iii(U',t'arlKi, inlitnatfd that it would be aee<ird. , and other weBlern tribes, on the death of friends,
in(r to tlieruleBof eti(pietlcin thaleountry for him . in war or by disease, for all the siirvivini; rela.
to leave us, unae(|uamlcd though we were with lives to shear the manes and lailH of their liorseH

llieri;;ht trail amoint the 10,111111 that ernsised the
eoiintry in every diieelion, and pi<ieeed to Furt
lloisais to make the important aimnuneoment tliat
lour white fiu'cs were apjirnaehinff the (Kint. I
remonstrated. IJul remonslrancc was mere air in
eomparison with the importanee of doinjr his ihity

to the skin — kill all the animals of tlif deceased —
pile all his pirsonal property around his burial,
place, and mourn, in the manner I have deserilH'd,
for wvcrnl days. Tlieir camp was eiphi miles
south of Tort Itoisais. We rode the distance in
ihree-iiuarters of an hour. Other flonak horse.

n the most apjiroved style ; and away he shot like men joined us along the way. I'ach one, as ho

ovr.r;,|„l4 iiB^ uttered the wail ; and then one and

iMKiiier took it uji and bore it idoug the scattered
line of the cavalcade. It was not very dark —
but it was iiijfht — and all its air was tilled with
these expressions of savajje (jricf. Tears flowed,

ail arrow from the Imjws of his trilx', over hillock
anil through the streams and ctijises till lost from
view. Itwasalsmtl o'clock. The trails were
BonumeidiiH that we found it uscle.is to continue
on any of them. Tor if we selected any single

one, that one branched into many every half mile. 1 and sobs arrested, oftentimes, the wail half s|Hpkeii.
.S) that \\v deemed it bi kI to ' take our cuuise' aH The sympathy of the poor creatnics for each other
the mariner would say, and disregard them alto- 1. apjiearcd very sinccrf, and afliirded stronir induc.e-
gcllier. In followiiij;; thisdelermination we crossed '; nieiitH to doubt the correctniBS of the usually re-
the Itoisais ajjain and again ; lloundcrcd in ipiag. ceiveil opinion that the American Indians |xjsscss
mires and dodged along among whip|)ing iKiughs little of the social atU'Clions. Tiiey ccrtaiidy
and imdcibnish ; and, when unimpeded by Biieh | maiiil'esled enough on this oecasiou to render the
oliBtacles, pelted the dusty jdaiii with as sturdy a hour I passed with them more op|)rcssively pain,
trot as ever echoed there, till llu' sun went down I'ul than I hope ever again lo experience.

and his twilight had left the sky. No Kort yet 1
Nor had we yet seen the Saptin. We halted, held
a eoimeil, determined to " hold our course'' west,
ward; listened, heard nothing but the nmttering
lioisais, and traveled on. in half an hour came to
us a frightful, mournful yell, which brought us to
an instantaneous halt. W'c were within fifty
yardsof the llou.ik Indians — .mil were discovered 1
This is a tierce, warlike and athletic tribe, in.
habiting the banks of that part of Saptin or .Snake
Hiver which lies between the mouth of lioisais or
iteed's Kivcraiid the Dluc .Monntaius. They make
war upon the Ulackletl and Crows ; and lor that '■
purpose (dten cross the Aliiuiilaius thidngli a gap
between the track of Livvis and Clarke and the
' Great (iap.' I!y these wars their number has
been much reduced. They are said to sjicak n
language peculiar lo themselves; and are re
gnrded by the whites as a ticacherons and dan-
gerous race. We had aipproaehcd sf) near ilicir '
"'amp that whatever might be their disposition
towiird us it was impossible to retreat. IJark-

.Mr. I'ayette, the person in charge nt lioisais,
received us with every mark of kindness ; gave,
our horses lo the care of his servants, and intro-
duced us immediately to the chairs, tabic and
edibles of his apartments. He is a French Cana-
dian ; has been in the service of the II. li. Com-
pany more than ".'0 years, and holds the rank of
Clerk ; is a merry, fat old gentleman of .'iti, who,
allliongh in the wilderness all the best years of his
life, has retained that manner of benevolence in
trilles, in his mode of address, of seating yon and
serving you at table, of directing your attention
continually to some little matter of interest, of
making you .«peak the French language ' prrfiiit.
iitnit' whether you arc able to do so or not, n>
strikingly agreeable in that mercurial ])Cople.
The 1 1th and loth were sj)ent very jdeasantly
with this gentleman. During that lime he
I'caKlcd us with excellent bread, and butter made
from an American cow, obtained from some of
the Missionaries ; with baked, boiled, fried and
broiled salmon — .mil, at my request, with some

ness concealed the surrounding country — hid the | of his adventures in the wilileiness.

river and the trails. We could not escape ;j Fort lioisais was CBlablished in 1833, as the

without their permission and aid. Our yoiwg I, post wliciice to oppoBc Wyeth's oj)ciatioiiB at

in the Rock}) Mountains, the Ortgon Territory, <fjr.

Fort Ilnll. Troin it, tlxi Iludnon Hiiy ('ompniiy

Mi'iil lliiir Iriiiliii)/ |)Brti( < over llir I'oiiiiliy muIIi,
ill advniii'f iiml rmv :iliii aiDiiuil cvi ry iiinvtinriil
III U'yclli. And liy iihiii,' lil)fr:illy tin liiiicl hud
liy iimiiiiilly for llml iiiirix^', liny iimlcrnold liir
Amrriciiii lill lie wan lorr ■(! Iimiii iIip coiinlry.
Oil ihn part oniir II. II, Co ii|i:iiiy, I wr nolliin;;
hlraii)r(' or iiniiianly in lliiB (■(■.. iiirt, if looked nt
MH a liiiHiiii'KN trniiHarliiiii. I'ropli' jiaviiii; (((iiul
ri^lilH ill Iniili', UhHiiiiic iirriKharily llii' rclalivc
IHwilioiiH wliirli llirir Nkill anil riijiilHl cnii coiii-
inaiid. TliiH iH till' |ioHili(iii ol Aiiiirii'iiiiM and
llritoiiH ill Orr^oii. liy ii piiKilhiiiiiii'iiiN jinliuy
nil Ilii: iiai't ol llic AniiriiMii (iiivirniiii'nl, ur
liavc (,ivrn Mrilisli huli|rclH an ('(|iial riylil willi
oiir own cili/.iiiH lo Irii'ic in all llial , art of. the
I'lililio Dnniain lyniu \vi hi of llir ItorUy Moun-
tains. In till' cxiniHC of till' rii;litH iIiiih grunted,
the il. II. I'ompaiiy i niploy tlirir iiicoinparablt'
in^rrnuity and iiiiiimiih: wrallli in driviii<; every
Anierieaii liader Iroiii tlic roanlx of tlie Nortii
I'aeiiie. .Vnd who in lo he lilained for lliiH ?
The (Joveniinriit of the I'liited Slal<H, that lian,
tliroiiirli want of windoin or riniiiieHK or jiistiee,
permitted thi'Ke iin|Hirtaiit ii);hlH of ilH eilizeiiH to
he inoiiopoli/.ed hy liirei<{n eapit.di:<i.< for tlie l.-ml

111) V'^lfH'

'I'IiIh l''ort Htund't on the caHtcrn hunk of the
Saptin, eight inilPH nortli of the inoiith of Hoinuis
or lieeil'B Kivor. It eon 'xts of a paralleloirrani
almul lull leet Hquuie, Kiirroiuded hy a ntoekude !|
of jioltH alxmt l.'i feel in hi({lil. It waH filtered [!
on the west nide. A''roHH the a'ea north and !j
Honth ruiiH tlic ]>riii('ipal hnildini;. It iu con- |j
Ktructed of 1oj;h, and eontaiim u la.'ge dining-
room, a hieepiiiu iipartincnt and kitehcn. On
the north Hide of tlie area, in front of this, is the
■tore ; on the Houth Hide, tlie dweliiiifjH of !he
scrvantH ; hack of the main hiiilchnif, ai> oiit-(lo<ir i
oven ; and in the north-east corner of the stockade ]
iH tlie haation. ThiH was Fort lloiBain in IS.'W.
Monfi. Payette was ercctini; a neat adohic wall
nronnd it. He expected soon to 1m' able to tear
away tlio old stockade, and, hcfore this, liaa
donhtless done so.

Amoiiji the curiosities of nis estahlishinent
were the fore wheels, axletree and thills of a one-
horse wapm, said to have been run hy the Amcri-
nun MisBionuriea from tJie .Stale of Connecticut
through tlic mountains thus far toward the mouth
of the Coluinhia. It was lilt here under the be.
lief tliat it could not be taken through the Blue
Mountains. But fortunately for the iie.xt that
hIiuU attcmiit to cross the continent, a safe and
easy jiasBage has lately lH>en discovered hy wliich
vehicles of tliu kind may be drawn through to
Wallawalla.

At 10 o'clock on the Ititli wc found ourselves
Hufticicntly rested to recommence our journey.
Our jiaeks nnd ourselves were sent across the
Saptin in a canoe ; and our liorws Iiavinu swam
it, nnd having been packed and saddled firmly
for a rapid march, and a ' lion Jour' having been
returned by Mons. Payette, with the additional
kind wish of a ' io» voyage' to us, over the
mountains, wc left the old gentleman to hin soli-
tary dominion. He usually collects, during a
twelvemonth, twelve or fifteen packs of beaver,
and employs himself in the salmon Bens<m in
curing large quantities of that fish for the supply I

of other |)oi,t». Our course was down the west
hank of the river. 'I'he soil whs saiul iird clay
mi.ved ill marlv eipi.il projuirlionf'. Il" cciiii|hi.
hilinii IH siirh as lo rcnilir it liiiillMl ; but the iib-
sence of dews nnd rains lorbicls the e.x|Hetalioii
that il will ever be so. Vegrtalion, biiiicb-grasH
and V'ild worniwisid. 'I'ravelid l.'i miles and
eneaniped near a small hiile, at the lisit ol winch
ran a little tributary of tlir Saptin. i'roin thi'
Hoiuh bank of this siream near our cani|i burst a
great nnniber of hot springs— wa'er inipn !,'iiati"l
with sulphur — tenipcraliire at tlii' iMiibng (loiiil.

17th. Soil as on the tracii of ibe llilh, save
that the hills U'caiin' higliir and mo r gravelly. —
In the forenoon eroKsed a brook piiinig inlo the
Saptin. .\t mid-rlay toiiehed the Saptin and left
il again for the hills. .Miil-afleriinon slrncK an-
other small stream and followed up its valUy till
night. I'lstimateiloiir day's |o«rn(v at JtO miles.

IKlh. The hills higher and more rocky- Those
in the dislaneelo th(! west and north wei'i partially
covered with pines and cedaiH. Those iiimiedi-
ately around our track thickly clothed with dry
hunch grass. Some of them bad hci'ii burned
over by the, Indians. Many heaiiliful little valleys
wiTc seen among the highlands. Black birch,
rcse and willow shrubs, and ipiaking-asp Irees on
the banks of the little briKiks. I'liicaini""! 'iiider
tlie elill's of a liiite. The moon «as in the llrst
quarter. Its cold beams barnioiii/.ed well with
the cliilling win<lH of the mountains. The al-
mospliere ,ill the Jlay sinokv, as in Indian summer-
time in the highlaiids of"Ne„- Knglaiid. Ksti-
inated distance travelled, '2^y miles.

lOlh. Forenoon over gently rising conical hillH
clothed with hunch grass; soil in the valleyH
sand and clay. t'(K)ked dinner at L'Arbor seul,
a lonely pine in an extinsive plain. Kncamped
at night on a strei/in coming from tlie Blue Moiiii-
tains in the north west. Distance to-day .'tD
miles.

20th. Track up the valley in which we en-
camjicd the preceding night, over gently undula
ling hills ; high broken mountains on either siih'.
Alsmt lii o'clock came to a very steep dtsrent, a
mile in length. The up|>cr part of it was so pre.
eipitouH th.it the animals with packs were obliged
to make a zigzag track of a mile, lo descend the
half that ilislance. The lower i)art was less pre
cipitous, hut covered with loose vohanie. rocks.-
.\mong these the horses plunged and liruistd
theinsclves badly ; hut fortunately none were se
riously injured. Some rich soil in the valleys ;
heavy groves of yellow pine, spruce and hemlock;
(piaking-asp on thostieami and in the raviries. —
From high swells over wliich ran the trail, we
sa'v an extensive valley, deei)ly sunken among
the lofty mountains in the north east. il aji-
pearcd to lie thickly coated with grass ; some
iwrtions dry, others green. The meadow lark
made its appearance to-day. Toward night wo
came again into the valley which we had entered
at mid.day, and encamiied under a majestic yeU
low pine. Freezing breezes swept down fiom
the woody mountain around us, and made our
fire, blazing high under the dark groaning boughs,
xtremely agreeable. Traveled 25 miles.

21st. A day of severe traveling. In the fore-
noon the trail ran over a scries of mountains
swelling one above another in long and gentle

Travels in the Great Western Prairies,

ascontH, covered with nolilc forests of yellow pine, l!
fir niul linnlock. Aiihiujt tlifHc wcri' finiuciil ■;
glndfn of rifli pa!<tiirc land; irrass yrcrii — ami i
nuirr '■oils hiooks of ]>iii(' water lrai)in!T from tlie
clifl's, or iiuininiriniT amnni.; the sliruhhef. 'I'hi
Bnow.hall, the wax plant, the yellow and hiaek
currant — a speeies ol wliortlcberrv — the nerviee ,
beny — ehokc eherry — the elder — the slirnh maple f
— and all the heantiful lloweni that (feni a nioini- li
tain landscape duriiw^r \[n Bliort KUuimerH, elolhcd
the ground. At l^J n'elnek we entered a deep ra-
vine, at thelx)tlr)in ol which ran a Imjok of sweet
clear water, and dined on its haidi. A dish of
rich cocoa, mush .■ind sii'_rar, and dried hntValo
tongue, on the fresh grass iiv a cool rivulet on tli<'
wild mountains of Oregon 1 Nature slrelehed her
bare and mighty arms around us 1 'I'he moun-
tains hid the lower sky and walled out the lower,
world I We looked upon the licautilul bights of i
the nine Mountains and ale jiniong its spring ;
blossoms, its singing iiim s and lujly baltlcmenls.
10,000 feet almve the seas. In the alternocjii wv
continued to ascend ; vast rolls litfed thenisclvi s
over one anoth.^r in a northerly direction hiL'her
and higher, till in the distance their tops niing- ,
led with the blue of the sky. '

Wo followed this grassy ridge till near •! o'clock,
when wc commenced descending. .V mile over
slowly dcclinhig hills and the descent became
frightful. It appeared to stand 1.')' to the plane
of the horizon. The horses when they turned at
the angles of the zigzag trail, often I'ound the
greatest dilhculty to keep <in tlieir feet. Two
miles of such descent, of hi. icing with miirht and
main, deposited us in a ravine of gn at depth, and
hung far and near with e'ifls and abrupt earthy
bord(rB, partially covered with pines. At the
l)ott jm a brook miming in a northerly direction,
str igglcd and roared an)ong the fallen rocks. Wc
Hide our way with nuieli ditiiculty down '•»
banks a short distanee, crossed it and proceeding
in a northwesterly direction to another s ream
flowing eastward, encanijied among the pines. — :
These valleys were tided with cold wiiuls whieli
rushed through them in irregular gusts, (hilling ,
every thing tliey touched, liut we set tire lo large
piies of dry pine logs in camp, spread our couches,
and Wfiyworn as men ever were, ensconced our-
selves in them for npose. ( 'arlx) did not retire ;
but went whistling almiit among the horses — un-
tied liis wallet ol provisions a".' ate a second
limp — punched the tires and looked at the eastiTn
sky with evident interest. The vales below had
been set on lire liy Indians; and I more than
half supposed that he expee'cd to see some of his
tribe at our (p\arlers. Hut my .upposition was
untrue.

As soon as the moon peeped over the east-
ern hights he roused me to hear in broken
French that our horses had nothing to eat in the
place where they were; and that we being rested
must climb the umuntain to llnd fooil tor them. —
No proposition, and the facts brought to urge .s
adoption, could have been more unfortunately ri'a-
sonable and true — at that particular time. .My
first impulse was :<> order him to his eouci ; but
a hungry whiiiney l.om mv roan pony br-wsing
near me, awakened me fullv to the j)ro[ /iely of
the measure proposed. 1 tlierei6resuniin(,iicdiny
weary limbs mid feet, bruised and idc nud, lo

their best cfTorts, and at 12 o'clock of the night
we were on niareii.

Awhile we led our animals through the langlcil
wood, and then along a steep gravelly sideol the
(diasni. where thi' loolliohi slid .at every step;
then awhile among rolling stones so thickly
strewn upon tin; ground, that the liorses touched
it only when their weight drove their I'cet down
between them ; and again awhile we seemed to
haiiLf on the (litis, and ])ause between advancing
and lollowing the laws of grtivilation to the bed
of the torrent thai battled its way in the cav-
erns far below ; and tlu n '.n the desperati(jn of a
last etVorl, climbed the bank loa ph'-e of safely.
.\t lenirth we arrived at a large indentation in the
lace ot the mountain, up the encircling rim of
which the trail for half a* mile was of compara-
livelv easv ascent. At llie end of this distance,
anotiier dillieidty was superadded to all we had
yet experieneed. The sleeps were covered to the
depth of several feet with " cut rock" — dark shi-
ning cubes Ironi (me lo three inches in (hameier.
with sharp corners and edges. It was well nigh
impossible to force our horses on them. The most
obedient one, however, was at length led and
scourged upon them; and by re|pealing the same
inflictions, ihe remainder were linally induced lo
follow. All walked e.xeept Smith. lli-i iiorse
was " a d — d brute, and was made to eairy him
or die.'' The poor animals would slip, and ^^ather,
and cri|)ple ; and when unable kmger to i^'idurc
the cutting smni' under liieir feet, would suddenly
drop on tlieir liiiees ; but the pain caused by that
position would soon lorce them to rise again, and
struiTcrlr u|) the ascent. An half hour of mch
traveling passed us over this stony surface to the
smooth gras.-'. swells, the surfa(-e of whie'i was
earthy and [ileasanl to the lacerated feet jf our
horses. The green grass grew thickly all around :
the moon iioiired her bright beams through the
frosty air on the slumbering bight."! ; in the deep
pinc'clad vales, burned dimly the Indian fires ;
from mountain to mountain sounded the deep
bass of a thous.and cascades.

We encamped in a grove of pines that crowned
Ihe mountain at .'1 o'clock in the morning.
» i!d. We saddled early, and aseen(hng for two
hours a line of gentle gra.ssy elevations, came to
the besinniii'l of the northwestern declivities of
llie Blue .Mountains. Thi^ trail ran down the ra-
vines of small lirooks llowin;.' nortliwcst, and oc-
easionallv over high swells which stretched down
the plaiii, that lii^s about the south western
branches of the Wallawalla Uivcr, and halted to
dine. In the atteriKMin we struck otl' iiorthwest-
lerlv over the rolling plain. The soil in the de-

, pressions was a light and loose compound of sand
and clay, and sparsely covered with bunch grass.
The swells were of gravel, and generally barren ;
trees on the brooks only, and these few, small,
and of little value. AImiuI 3 o'clock we came
into the camp of a middle-aged Skyusc Indian,
who was on iiis onward march Iroiii the bufi'alo
hu'.l in the niounlain vallies east and norlheust
of Fort Hall. He was a sjiare man of live feet
eight inelies. dressed in a green camlet frock
coat, a black vest, striped colloii shirt, leather
pants, moccasins, and a white felt hat. They
had two children, toys, neatly <dad in deerskin.

,. His camp eiiuipage was very conifortablc — four

in the Pocky Mountains, the Oregon Territory, SfV.

or five cnin,).kctt!ri with tin rnvprfl, a number of
puils with covers, a leathern tent, and an assort-
ment of fine hutr.ilo robes. He had had a very
successful hunt. Of tlio 17 lior.'^i-s in his cara-
van, six were loaded with the best flesh of the
buflfalo cow, cured in the best manner ; two othcrn
bore his tent, utensils, clDthini;, robes, &e. ; four
others were ridden by liiinself and family ; the
five remainins; were used to relieve those that,
from ti-ie to time, mifrht tire. These were
splendi ^ ..iinials, as larjfe us the l.cst horses of
the State.-., well knit, deej) and wide at the shoul-
ders, a broad loin, and very iimali lower limbs
nri'd lect ; of extreme activity and capacity for
endurance.

Learninc: '''''t this Indian was going to Dr.
Whitman's mission establishment, where a con-
niderable number of his tribe had iiitehcd their
tents for the approachiugr winter, I deterniiued to
leave the cavalcade and aceompan)- him there.
My fjuide Carbo, therefore, haviuL'' explained my
intentions to my new acquaintance, departed
with the remainder of his charijc for Fort Walla-
walla, t-'rickie, I'in English " poor crane, "i was
a very kind man. (nnncdiately after the depar-
ture of Carbo and company, he turned my worn-
out animals loose, and loaded my packs upon his
own, gave me a splendid saddle-horse to ride, and
intimated by signilieant gestures that we would
go a short distance that afternoon, in order to ar-
rive at the mission early the next day. I gave
my assent, and ww were soon on the way. Our
course was northeasterly over sharp swells, among
which ran many (dear .and beautit'ul brooks; soil
gravel, loam, sand, and clay, and well covered
with dry bunch gr;i8s, incapable of producing the
grains without irrigation. The swells and streams
run northwesterly from the Blue .Mountains. Our
course was diagonally across them. Having
made about 10 miles at sunset, we encamped for
the night. I noticed, during tlw drive, a degree
of forbearance towards the animals whenever they
erred, and of ufleetion and benevolence towards
each other, in this family of savag(M which I had
never before ob.scrved iii that race. When we
lialted for the night the two boys were Ix'hind.
They had been frolicking with tlieir horw » -mil
as the darkness came on, Icjsl the trail. It t»ts a
half-hour before they maili lb. ir appeariJlee, .<nd
during this time, the worthy p>if<*itn exlubit-.l the
most atV(<:tionate solicitude lor thim One o/
them was but thre(^ years old, and waf lashed to
the horse he rode ; the otii. ' only seven years of
age. Young pilots m '•■ «ildern(*s .it night 1
Hut the elder, true to ti- .lifacity of Ins race,
had taken his course, and .-itruf k the brook on
which we had encainjied, wi\h^ three htmdred
yards of us. The pride of ttw [larcnts at this
feat, and tlieir ardent atta(dim(iil to tin r cliil-
dren, were perceptible iji the pli'usurc witii which
they recLived tiiem at their eVMung lire, and
heard the relation of their childish adventure.

The wiather vas so pleasant that no tent was
pitched. The willows were bent, and buiialo
robes spread over them, rnderneath were laid
other robes, on which my Indian host seated IniD-
aelf with his wife and children on one side, and
myself on the other. A (ire burned brightly in
front. Water was brought, and the evening ab-
lutions having lx;eu pcrforincd, the wiie presciilcd ,

a dish of meat to her husband, and -.no to myself.
There w.is a pause. The wo nan seated li(\roelf
between her children. The Indian then oowed
his head and prayed to (Jod 1 A wandering M.
vage in Oregon calling upon Jehovah in the name
of .lesus (^hrist ! .\fter the pruyer, he gave meat
to his children, .and pasfcd the dish to his wife.

While eating, the frequent repetition of vhc
words .Jehovah and .lesus Christ, in tha moit ro-
verential manner, led me to suppose they worn
conversing on religi( us topics; and thus they
passed an hour. .Meanwhile, the exeeeduig wea-
riness of a long day"s travel admonished me to
seek rest.

I had slumljcred, I know not how long, when
a strain of music awoke me, I w.as about rising
to ascertain whether the sweet notes of Tall** '»

; Chant came to these solitudes from earth or *ky,

: when a full reeoilection of my situation, \nd of

■ the religious h;d)ils of inv host, easily sieved thn
rising inquiry, and induci'd me to observe iii»t»vn|
of disturbing. Thi' Indian family was ouit^:^!

' in its evening devotions. They were kh^w^^N* a
hymn in the Ncz I'erces langua^'. U vmg

; iinislud it, they all knelt and Iwnveii their faces
upon the burt'alo rol)es, and Cricku* prayed long
and fervently. .Vfterwards llwy King another

i hunn and retired. This wa* XK« first b- -ithing
of religious feeUngs that I Ivvl .seen sine* leaving
the .*>tates. A pleasant evidence that the Oregon

; wildcrne.ss was beginniiis; to bear the rose of (iiia-
ron on its thousand hilln, and that on the barren
soil of th(^ .SkyuHi- heart was licginniiig to bud

; and blossom and ripen the golden fruits of faith

, ill .lehovah, and hope in an after stale.

' 'XUl. We were on our way belbrc the sun rose.
The dawn on an Oregon skv, the rich dIuo em-
bankment of niountamsover whi<'h the great day.

' star rais<>d his glowing rim, the blandnesi of th»
air, the velv ambling of the carav.in towani the
nciglilK>ring abode of my countryman, imparted
to my i'liiid and Ividy a most agreealilo exhilara-

I U'm. I rickio and his wife and children als<,>, ap-

' pf«>n>«; to enjoy llio atmosphere and seenery of
t' I -lative valley ; and we went on together mer.
r;i, over till swelling plains and murmuring
streams till .iiiout eight o'clock, when Criekio
spurred his horse in advance of the cavalcade,
and motioned me to follow him.

Wo rode very rapidly ibr alwul three hours
over a country gently undulating, well set with
bunch grass, and intersected with small streams
flowiiii'. northwest The dust had risen in dark
<louds during our ride, and rendered it necessary
to bathe belbre presenting ourselves at the niii.
sioii. We therelbre halted on the b.ank of a little
brook overhung with \\ illows, and proceeded to
make our toilet. Crickie's paraphernalia w.is am-
pie for the pur|X)sc, and showed that among his

' other excellencies, eleaiiliuess held a prominent
place. A small mirror, pocket-comb, soap and a
towel, were immediately produced; and the dust

; was taken from his jiersoii and wardrob* with a.
nicely Uiat wuidd have satisticd an e.xqmsitu on
pavements.

A ride of five nnlcs afterward brought us i;i

i sight of the groves around the inissiou. The
plains far and near were dry and brown. Evsry
ionii of vegetation was dead save the forest trees,
whose roots drank deeply of the waters of tha

8CI

Travels in the Great Western Prairies,

- li ^W •i^ ,! U.-J-.

iitrcnni. Wo ciosM'd llic rivor, paf^sfd the Tndiiin
(lU'iiinpniiTit linrd l)y,tind wcri' at tlic giilc of tlio
mission firlds ill prrseiircol Dr. Wliitiniiii. Ilr
w;iB s|)r;ikiii!,f Skj-nso at tlir lop ol' liis voicr to
fioitic l.izy Indians who were drivinj; llicir rattle
from liii tjardin ; and ^rivinn orders In nlliors lo
yoke Ihriroxcn, jjcl tlii' axis, and fjo inio the I'or-
rsl liir Iho lower sleeperH of llie new niissioii lionse.
iMr. Hall, printer at llie Saiidwieii Islands, s<Min
appeared in workini; rlress. willi an axe on his
pjionlder; next eame Mr. Monirer, pidlinsr the
pine shavings from his li.rrplarie, .Ml sicmed de.
Hiron»to ask me liow long a halloon hne had hrcn
rimning helween the Slates and the l"acilip hy
which single individuals crossed the eonliiienl. —
Tlicoxen, however, were yoked, and icXch glislen.
ini5 in the smi. ancl there was no lime to spend, if
thev would relnrn from their lalwir helore nightfall.
So Ihat the wherjcc and wherefore of my Midden
a|)pear!mre among Ihem, were left for an atter
explanalion. TIk^ doctor inlro<liiee<l me to his
rxei'lleni la<ly, and departed lohis lulK)r.

The ufteriiixm was sjient in listless rest
from the toils of my jonniey. ,\1 sunset, how.
ever, 1 slrolled out anil .ook a liird'n-eye view of
the plantation and plain of the \\'allawalla. The
old mission-lionse stands on the northeasl bank of
tjie liver, alnjut four rods from the water-side, at
the northeast corner of an eiKdosnre eoulaiiiing
nl«)iit ~oU acres ; ;2I)(I of which arc under good
rultivalion. The soil is a thin stratum of clay,
mixed with sand and a small proporlajn of vege.
tahle mould, icsting on a base of coarse gravel. —
Through this gravel, water from the Wnllawalla
filtrates, and hy eapillarv allraelion is raised lo
the roots of vegetation in Ihe inenmhenl earth- — j
The products are wheat, Indian cMirn, onions, tur- I
nijis, rula haga, water, musk and nutmeg melons,
Hquaslus, asparagus, tomatoes, ciicmiihcrs, ])eas,
\-e. in the garden — all of good (pialily, and uhun-
(Unit crops.

The Wallawalla is a pr.'tty stream. Its rliaii.
nrl is )>aved with gravel and sand, and al«ail
three rods in width ; water two feet deep ninning
live or six miles the hour, and is limpid and cool
Ihrongh the year. A hundred vards helow the
house, it makes a heautiful hend to llic southwest
for a short distance, and then resumes its general
direction of northwest hy norlli, along Ihe lM)riler
of Ihe |)laiilation. ( >n the o|iposite hank is a line
of tiinher am" underwood, interlaced with llow'.r.
iiig hramhles. Other small groves occur alMive
anil hclow along the hanks. The jdain almut
the waters of this river is alionl 30 milpK fii|inre.
A great jiart of this siirfaer is more or less cov-
ered v.'itli hunch grass. The hranehes of the
river arc dislriliulcd over it in such manner that
most of it ran he grazed. I'lil from what came
under my own ohservalion, and tiie inforinaliou
received from res])eetahle American citizens, who
had examined it more minnUly than I had time
III do, I sup|Misc there to hi^ scarcely !i,(IOII acres
of this vast e.vlent of surface, wliieh can ever he
made available for the purposes of eiiltivalioii. —
The absence of rains and dews in the season of
crops, and the ini|)ossil)ility of irrigating inueli ol
t on account of the hight of Ihe jjeneral surface
above the streams, will uUiird suflicifnt reasons fur
entertaining this opinion.

The doctor returned near night with his tim-

her — one elm and a number of <iiiaking-asp slicks ;
and appeared gralillid that lie had been alile to
find Ihe rer|uisile number of sulVieienl size to sup-
port his floor. Tea came on, anil passed away in
earnest conversation ahoiil native land and friends
left lliert — of Ihe |)leasiire lliey derived from their
present oecupatinu — and Ihe trials thai hefel them
while' eonuueneiug Ihe mission and afterward.—
Among Ihe latter, was inenlioned Ihc drowning
of their chilli in the Wallawalla Ihe year before —
a liille girl two years old. She fell into llie river
al Ihe place where they took water for family use.
The inolher was in Ihe house, the fallier a short
distance away on the preiin.st s. The alarm was
conveyed to iheiii almost insl.inlly, and they and
ollicrs nishi'd lo Ihe slreani, and sought for il 'ir
child with franlie eageriiessi. Hut the strcig
heavy enrrenl had carried it down and lodged it
in a clump of hush, s under the hank on which
they stood. They passed the spot where it lay,
hut found it tmi late. Thus tin «e devoted ))eople
were herefl, in Ihe most afilieling manner, of their
only child — left alone in the wilderness.

'I'he mori.iij r if Ihe 'Mlh ojiened in the loveliest
hues of the >' > . Siill none of Ihe bcaiily of the
harvest field — none of the fragrance of the ripened
fruits of antiimn were there. The wild horses
were frolicking on the plains; but the plains
smoked with dust and dearlli. The green woods
iuk' the streams sent up their liarinonies with the
breeze; but it was like a dirge over the remains
of the deparlcd glories of the year. And yet
when the sinoking vegetables, the hissing steak,
bread white as snow, and the ncwly.cliurncd
golden butter graced the breakfast table, and the
happy coimlenanccs of counlrymen and country-
women Klione around, I could with dill'ieully 1 c-
licve myself in a eoimtry so far dislant from, and
so unlike iiiv native land, in all its features. Bnt
during brcakfi^l. this iileasant illusion was dis.
jiellcd by one of the causes wliii'h induced it. —
Our steak was of horse-tlesh 1 On such meat
this |Kior family subsist most of the time. They
I (k) not complain. It enables them lo exist to ilo
the Indian good; and thus satisfies them. Bnt
can it satisfy those who give money for the sup.
i jiort of inissioiiaricH, that the allowance made by
! their iigenis for the support of those who abandon
' l>arents and freedom ami home, and surrender not
only till niselves lo Ihe mercy <d the s.ivagcs, but
t''cir olVspriiig also, should be so meagre, ns to
eo.iipel them lo cat horscficsh ! This necessify
: existed in iH.'J'.lat Ihe mission on the Wallawalla,
; and I doubt not exists in lb!.'?.

The breakfast being oyer, the doelor invited

. me to a slroU over liis iiremises. The trarden

, was first examined ; ils location, on the curving

I bank of the Wallawalla ; Ihe aiiple trees, growing

thriflily on ils weslern bordir ; the hcaulifnl to.

mato and other vegetables, hiirdeniiig Ihe groundH.

Xext to the fields. The doctor's views of Ihe

; soil, and its mode of receiving moislure from Ihe

I river, weri^ such as 1 have previously expressed.
" For," said he " in those places where you per-
ceivo the stratum of jfravel to be raised so a.i to

|: intcrru|(t the cajiillary attraction of the sujierin-
^ cumbenl carlh, the crop failed." Then to the
■ new house. The .ulobic walls had been erected
:l a year. It was about ID feel by iiU, um\ o.ie and

II a. hall btories liigh. Tho intciior area consisted

in the Rocky Mountains, the Oregon Territory, etc.

of two parlorn of the ordinary kIzc, Hcparatcd by ||
•in ailnhii' |iortioii. The oiilir door opniiil into ,
one of tlinn; and from this n door in the parti-
tion Ird to tlip other. Aliovc wcrt' to hi' tilrrpiiip '
aparlnicMtH. To llic main hiiildini; wm atlaclit'd
another (if cfpial liijflit designed for a kiti'lien,
with I'liamhcrs alMiVf for ht'rvanls. Mr. Moiijjer
and a Sandwi< li Islander were hiyin;; the il(H)rs, j
nmkiuir the doorn, i.S;r. The hnnher iis( d was a {
very >-iiperior ipiahty of yi'llow pine phmk, which j
Dr. \\'hilman liad cnt with a whip wiw among;
tht lihie Monnt.iins, I.") miles distant. Ni-\t to
the " e.ira' " \ fine yoke of o.\in, iwo eowis an :
.'Vnicriean mil, and the heginnini; of a sloid; of j;
lioys were ti.ereahont. And last to the urist.mill j'
on liio other side of the river. It consisted of a j;
spherical wroni^'ht iron hnrr four or live inches in |
diameter, surronnded hy a connterlmrred surf ice \\
of the same material. The si>herieal hnrr was |!
permant ntly attached to the shaft ol a horizontal
water-wheel. The snr- /undin;; hiirrcd surfac(
was (irmly fastened to innhers, ni Buch a position :
tliut when the waler-whc<l was put in motion, the
oijoralion of the mill was snuilar to that of a ,
coflicnnll. It was a crazy thin;!;, hnl for it the :
doctor was ^rralelul. It would, with the help of i
himself and :vi Indian, grind enough in a da^' to
feed his larnily a week, and tlia>. was hetter than to
heat it \Mth a pestle and mortar. It ajjpeared to
me (pule remarkahle that the doctor could liav<'
niade so many improvements since tlie year 1S,'M. '
Hut the industry which crowded everv hour of the '
day, his untiring energy of character, and the I
very ellicient aid of his wife iu relieving him in a \
great degree from the laljors of the school, are, '•
jierhaps, circumstancen wliich will render possi.
liility probahlc, that in five years one .nun without
funds for such purposes, without other aid in that '
business than tliat of a fellow missionary at short ;
intervals, should fence, plougli, build, plant an :
orchard, and do all the other laliorious acts of;
o|)ening a plantation on tlic faic of that distant i
wildernexs; learn an Indion hmguage, and do the
duties, meanwhile, of a i)byfi(!ian to the associate
stations on the Clear Water and Spokan.

In the afternoon, Dr. \V. ai'.d his lady assembled
the Indians for inslruction iu reading. Forty or
fifty cinldreu between the ages of 7 and Ibi, and
Fcveral older people ijat.hcr on the sliady side of;
the new mission-house at the ringmg ol a hand, ij
bell, and seated themselves in an orderly manner |
on ranges of wooi'en henelKs. The doctor thcnf
wrote monoHyllnblcK, words, and instructive sen- 1
tcnces iu the Nez Ferees language, on a large
hlaeklmard suspended on the wall, and iiroeeeded
first to teach the nature and jxiwer of llu!
lettcfH in representing tiic simple sounds of the '!;
hingiiagc, and then the eonslruelion of words
niul their uses in forming sentences expressive of!
thought. The .sentences written during these
ojierations w<rc at last read, syllable by Hyllabic, ■
and word after woril, and e.vjilaiiied until the sen- .
timents eontaiiied in them were comprehcndod. :
And it was delightful to notice the undisguised,
avidity with which these people would devour a I'
new idea.

It seemed t<i produce ii thrill of deliglit
that kindled up the eoimtenanee and anima- !
ted the whole frame. A hymn in the Nez I;
PeiecB Iniiguaijc, learned by role frym^llicu: teuch- ,,

ers, was then sung, and the o.xerciBes closed with
prayer by Dr. \V. iutlie Baine tongue.

:i,')lh. I was awakened at early dawn by the
inerr3' sounds of clapping boards, the hammer,
the a.vc and the plane; t le sweet melodies of the
parent of virtue, at this cradle M' civilization.
When I rose every thing wasiii inoiion. Dr. VV.'s
little herd was lowing in Ihi^ riv.r; the wild horses
were neighing at the morniiig breeze ; the birds
were <'aroliiig in the groves. I sanl every thing
was alive. iNav, 'lOt so. The .'^kyuse village
Was ui the deepest sliimher, save a few solitary in-
dividuals who were stalking with slow and stately
tread up a neigblKirlng bute, to descry the retreat
of their animals. Their conical skin lodges dot-
led the valli y above the mission, and imparted lo
the morning landscape a peculiar wildness. .As
the Sim rose, the imuales began to emerge from
them. It was a chilly hour ; and their biitlido
lolies were drawn over tlu'ir shoulders, with the
hair side ne.\t the Ixidy. The snow white llesli
side was fringed with the dark fur thai crept in
sight around the edges, and their own l"lig black
glistening tresses li'll over it far down the .laek
The chililren were out in all the biiovancy of
young life, shouting to the ]iraneing steed, or bet.
ting gravel .stones that th" arrows ui>on their little
bows woulil be the (irsl to clip the sturdv thisllo
head upon which they were waging niiniic war.
Tlie women were Inisy at their tires, weaving
mats from the flag ; or sewing mocctisins, leg.
giugs or hunting shirts. Criekie was giving meat
to liis friends, who the past winter had fed him
and taken care of him ivhile lying sick.

'I'liis is the imperial tribe of Oregon. They
formerly claimed a prescriptive right to exercise
jurisdiction over the country down the ( 'olumbia
to its mouth ; and up the North and Senith Forks
to their sources. In the reign of the late high
Chief, the brother of him who now holds that sta-
tion, this claim was acceded to by all the trilM;s
within those districts. But that taleiitedand brave
man left at his death hut one son, wlio, after re.
eeiving a thorough education at the Selkirk set.
tlenu nt, on Red River of Lake \\'iime])e<g, also
died — and with him the imjicrial dignity of the
Skyiisc tribe. The person in charge at Fort
WuUawalla, indeed (kessed the present incum-
bent in better style than his fellows; proclaimed
him high chief, and by tri'ating him with the
forinalii usually tendered to his deceased brother,
has obtained for liim tlie name, but not the re.
siH-ct and influence belonging to the otlicc. lie
is a man of considerable mental power, but has
none of the fire and energy attri'.iuled to his pre-
decessor. The Wallawallas and Tpjicr I'henooks
,ire the only trilies that continue to recognize the
Skyiise supremacy.

The Skyiise are also a. tribe of merchants. Be-
fore the establishment of Forts Hall and lioisais,
they were in the habit of rendezvousing at " Lu
(irande Hounde," an extensive valley in the Rhic
.Mountains, with the Shoshonie* and other Indians
from the valley of the Saptin, and exchanging
with them their horses for furs, butValo robes, skin
tents, iSi,c. Rut since the building of these jiosts,
that portion of their trade is nearly destroyed. In
the winter season, a band of tliein usually dcs.
eends to the Dalles, barters with the Cliinnoks for
salmon, uiut holds cuuiicils over that inciin and

Teavels in the Great Western Prairies,

miserable build to ascertain their misdemcanorB,
and |iunish tliciu tliorrfor by wliippiiiir. TIio Wal-
lawallae, liowevcr, arc tlicir most iiimicrniis and
profitable customnrs. They nia)- well be termed
the tisliermeii of the Skyiise eamp. Tliey liv{:on
lx)tli baaUo of the Columbia, from llie Ubie Moim-
tains to the Dalles, and eni|)lcv 'lieniselves prin-
cipally in takinfj Halmon. I'or tlu <e, tlieir betters,
who consider tishini;- a menial bnsii 'sh, give them
hoixee. Tliey own larjre nnnibersof these animals.
A fikj'use is thouifht to be poor who has but Id or
'■iO of them. They jrenendly have many more.
One fat, hearty old fellow, owns somellnni( over
S},000 ; i\'' '.ild e.veept so many as he needs Ionise
or sale.

To these reports of the Indians, Doctor Whit-
man ^'ave little credence; so at variance were
Konif of the facts related, with what he presumed
the Hudson's Bay Company woidd jiermit to be
done by any one m their employment, or under
their patronajjc — tin; abuse of American citizens,
and the inifientlemanly interference with their
charactiTS and callinfr.

On the niorninjr of the 27th, the arrival of
;\Ir. Ermelinsrer, the senior clerk at l-'ort Mall
from I'ort Wallawalla, created (juite a sen-
sation. IJis uniform kindness to the missionary
has endeared him to them. .Mv eonii)anion, Uk r,
accompanied him. The poor old man had becon. -
lonely and discouraged, and as I had encouiaged
him to e.xj)ect any assistance from me which his
circumstances mifrlil demand, it afVorded me the
greatest pleasure to make his merits known to the
missionaries, who needed an artisan to construct
a mill at the station on the Clear Water. Dr.
Whitman contracted with him for his services,
and Blair was happy. 1 sincerely hope he may
forever be so.

I attended the Indian sciiool to-day. Mrs.
Whitman is an indefaligabh; instructress. The
clnldren read in monosyllables from a primer
lately published at the ('lear ^\'ater station.
After reading, they repealed a number of hymns
in the Nez I'erces, composed by Mr. Smith, of
the Spokan sUition. 'J'hese were afterward sung.
They learn nmsic readily. At nightfall 1 visited
the Indian lodges in company with Dr. Whit-
man. In one of them we saw a young woman
who imagined that the spirit of a Mi'dicin man,
or conjuror, had entered into her system, and \\ as
wasting her life. She w;ih resorting to the native
reu.' "_ '"•' «ueh evils — singing wdd incantations
and wt ping loudly. 'I'lis tribe, lik.- all others
west of tlie mountains, believe in wilchcr.it under
various forms — practice i;le\glil.of-luind,tire-ear.ng,
«tc. They mscrt rough slicks into their throats
and draw them up and do\,n till the i)lood Hows
freely, to make them long-winded <in march.
They flatten the head, and |)erforate the se|(tum
or uarlition of the nose. In this orifice they wear
various ornaments. The more common one tliat
I noticed was a wolf's tooth.

The .Skyuse have two distinct languages : the
one used in ordinary intercourse, the other on ex-
traordinary occasions ; as in war.councils, &,c.
Both are said to be copious and expri'ssive. They
also speak the Ne/. I'ercea and Wallawalla.

On the 28th, , Mr. Krmitinger started for Fort
Hall, and Blair for the t le.ir Water. Early in the
ilay the Indians brought in large numbers of their

There is every variety of color amon;^ them, from
the shining coal-black to the milk-wliite. Some

horses to try their speed. These are a fine rac? of
animals ; as large and of better form and more
ctivily than most of the horses in the States.
■iety of col
ack to th(
of them are jiied very singularly ; as a rof.n body
with bay ears, and white mane and tail. Some
are spotted with white on a roan, or bay, or
sorrel ground, with tail and ears tipped with
black. They are belter trained to the saddle
than those of civilized countries. When an In-
dian wishes an increase of his serving animals,
he mounts a fleet horse, and, lassoo in hand,
rushes into liis band of wdd animals, throws it
upon the neck of a chosen one, and chokes liim
down ; and while in a state of insensibility, ties
the hind and fore fee I lirrnly ti/gether. When
consciousness returns, the animal struggles, vio-
lently and in vain, to get Um.sc. Ilis fear is then
attacked by throwing bear-skins, wolf-skins and
blankets at his head, till he becomes quiet. He
is then loosened from the cord, and rears and
plunges furiously at the end of a long rope, and
receives another introduction to bear-skins, &,c.
After this, he is approached and handled ; or, if
still too timid, he is again beset with blankets
and bear.skins as before, until he is docile. Then
come the saddling and riding. During this train,
ing they uniformly treat him tenderiy when near,
and rudely when he pulls at the end of the halter.
And thus they make of their wild steeds the
most fearless and pleasant riding-animals I ever
mounted.

The course pursued by Mr. Whitman, and
other Presbyterian .Missionaries, to improve the
Indians, is to teach them the Nez I'erces Ian-
guage, according to fixed grammatical rules, for
the purjKisc of opening to them the Arts and Re-
ligion of civilized xNations through the medium
of lx)oks. They also teach them jiractical Agri.
culture and the useful Arts, for the purjiose of
civilizing their physical condition. By these
means, they hope to make them a better and
hapjiier people. Perhaps it would be an easier
way to the same result, if li.ey would teach them
the" English language, and thus epcn to them at
once the treasures which ctntiirles of toil by a
superior race have dug from the mines of Intelli-
gence and Truth.

This was the evening before the Sabbath, and
Dr. Whitman, as his custom was, invited one of
the most intelligent Indians to his .Study, trans-
lated to him the text of Scripture from which he
intended to leach the tribe on the morrow, ex-
plained to him its doctrines, and reiiiiircd of him
to explain m turn. This was repeated again and
again, until the Indian obtained a clear under-
standing of its doctrines.

The '2!)th was the Sabbath, and I had an oppor-
tunity of noticing its observance by the Skyuse. I
rose liefore the i>un. The stars were waxing dim
on the morning sky — the most charming dawn I
ever witnessed. Every possible circumstance of
Bubbmity conspired to make it so. There was
the pure atmosphere ; not a wisp of cloud on all
its transparent depths. The lij^ht [wured over the
Blue Mountains like a cataract of gold ; first on
the upper sky, and deepening lis course through
the lower air, it gilded the plain with a flood
of brightncBS, mellow, beautiful brightness ; the

in the Rocky Mountains, the Oregon Territory, S)V.

i-harms of inornino; lifjlit, on llio lirown, Ixjund-
loss w)litii<l('s of Oi('t;oii. Tlii' liriczt! scarcoly
nistlcil till) leaves of tlio (lyiiifT llourrs ; the
flriiinniinij nl Ihr wninlpcckcr on tlir distant tree,
noiiridi-'d a iiiiinliil diH(i>rd ; so ^raiid, so iiwiiil,
and yrl. so swnt, wen' tlii; imiittcird symplionits
of the suliliiiii' fjiiirl of tlic \\ ildiiiu'ss.

At 111 o'clock the Skyusc asscmlilcd for worsliip
in the o|)cn iiir. Tlic cxcrcisiH ucrc accordin;; to
the I'rcsliytciian foiiji ; llic invocation, the liynm,
till- |)raycr, llicliyinn, (licsiTMii>n,a jiraycr, ahyiiin,
and till" hicssinif ; all in the .Nc/. I'crcis loni;tic.
'I'Ir' jirinripal pccnliarity alxmt tliu services was
the mode of delivering; the discourse. When Dr.
Whitman arose and aiinoiiiiccd the text, the. In-
ilian who had tmn instnicled on the ])rev'oiis
iiii;lit, rose and repealed it ; and as the address
proceeded, repeated it also hy sentence or ]iura.
■.'lapli till it was linishcd. 'I'liis is the cusloiii of
the Skyiise in all their pnhlic s|jeakin;;. And the
henellt rcsiiUin',f I'roni it in this ease, apparently
was, the [rivini;- the doetrmcs which the Doctor
desire.l to incnicatc, a clearer expression in the
jiropcr idiom of the lan!;na;;e. IJuriiifj the re-
cess, the children were asseiiililed in Salihalh
School. In the afternoon, the service was simi-
lar to that of the moniini;. Kvery tliinrr was
conducted with much solemnity. After wor-
Blii|), the Indians (rathcrcd in their lod(res, and
conversed tosr,,.ilicr (toncerninj; what they had
heard. If donht arose as to a;,y jioint, il wan
solved hy the instructed ImUaii. Thus p.isse<l
the Salihath amoni; the Skyiise. The day itself
was one ol' suhlimity ; that day on which the re-
ligious allections of the race go up to their source,
the iiieom|iichensiljle origin of the world.

t)n the •-'IMli 1 hired (rickie to take me to the
Dalles ; and, .Mrs. Whitman having tilled my <iacks
with hread, corn-meal anil other cdihles, I lashed
my packs once more for the lower (.'ohimhia.

ClIAPTKH VIII.

r«fliiig W'Mi Frlf mill— Wall iwnlla Vallny— Fort Wallmalla
—.Mr, Ptthihrui.— TiipCsluinhlii— Counlrv clown lisbankt

— What was Sfun <il Riirli Kartb— Wood, Fire ind WaliT—
Daiazcr, 4ic. Irnni the Ilnifjlib— Fdllini; M lunlain— iMorr.-
in^ Jlyiiin to Hod — W. a iu*s Causeway— A View ot the Fro-
ZHii Subliirt- — Soniewliat ttf Oiikip ami oilier Mnitrrs —
'Tuin Tuni Uriel' an I appurU'iliince^— Dalle'* — Methodist
Kpis opal Mi^sion -Mr. and Mrs Perkins— .Mr. Lee- Mis-
i.iim rieiiiifBi— (lifiyptian ryiaiiiids- Indian — 11 iw Filly
Iiidian^can'FitrlilOnr Busloii— The llrsuUiif a War— Uc-
=CPiit ol the Colmntiia in a Canoe — A Nif^lil on tin* River
— The Poelry of uic WllderneMi- The Cascod''^- Pt.stiii;e

— Dr. .Mcl.auiji.ln— Indian Tomhs— Death— -V I{«ce— The
Uiver and lis Banks— Ni^'hl Airaiii— M'lUnH Wasliinuiim
and JelVersou— Arrival— Fort Vaucouver— British Ho.'pi*
lilily.

SiHIi. ',cft the kind peopleof the mission, at ID
o'clock, li r I'ort Wallawalla. 'I'lavi led 13 miles;
face of the country dry, harrcn, swelling plains;
not an acre capahle of cultivation : soino hunch
grasp, and a generous supply of wild wonnwo<id.
I'lncampcd on the, northern hraneli of the Walla-
walla Uivcr.

t^ctoher I. .\t 10 o'clock, to-day, I was kind-
ly received hy .Mr. Painhrun at Fort Wallawalla.
This gentleman is a half-pay ulhcer in the British
army. His rank in the Hudson Hay Company is
that of " clerk in charge" of this post. He is of
[•'rencli extraction, a native of Canada. I hreak-
fasted with him and his family. His wife, a half-
hreed of the country, has a immhor of heauliful
children. The hreukfast being over, Mr. I'ain.

I hriin invited me to view the preinisco. The fort
I is a plank stockade, with a numher of hnildings
i within, appropri.itcd to the several uses of a store,
j hlacksmilh-shop, dwellings, &c. It has a has.
: tion in the norlheast corner, inounlcd with can-
I noil. The eoimlry around .about has sometimes
j been represented as fruitl'iil and beautiful. I am
I obliged to deny so foul an imputation upon tho
I fair fame of dame Naturi'. It is an ugly desert ;
designed to be such ; made such, and is such. —
.\boiit seven miles up the Wallawalla River arc
two or three acres of givjiind feneed with brush,
j cajiable of bearing an inferior species of Yankee
pumpkin; and another s|«)l, somewhere, of the
fourlli of an acre, capable of producing any thing
I that grows in the richest kind of unmoistened
; simd. I!ut aside fmiii these distiiigiiL«hed e.xeep.
; tioiis, the vicinity of Fort Wallawalla is a desert.
'J'liere is, indeed, some beauty and sulilimil y in
sight, but no fertility. The wild Coluinbia sweeps
aloi:g under its northern wall. In the east, roll
, up to heaven dark lofty ridges of mountains ; in
the norlliwesi, arc the ruins of extinct and terri-
ble volcanic action ; in the west, a half mile, is
' the entrance of the river into the vast chasm of
its lower course, abutted on either side by splen-
didly castellated rocks — a magnificent gateway
for its floods.
I Hut this is all. DesPrt describes it as well as
' il docs the wastes of .\rabia. I tarried only two
hours with the hospitable Mr. I'anibrun. But as
if determined that 1 should remeinbcrthat I would
I have been a welcome guest a much longer titne,
1 ho put Sfime tea and sugar and bread into my
! packs, and kindly expressed regrets that our mil-
tual achniralion of Napoleon should be thus
[ crowded into the eliit-eliat of hours instead of
weeks. A fine eompanioiialile fellow ; I hope he
J will command Fort Wallawalla as long as Brit-
ons occupy it, and live a hundred years afterward.
Traveled down the south bank ol the Columbia
, along the watcr.side ; the river half a mile in
'. width. with a deep strong current ; water very clear.
■\ \ short distance from its brink, on both sides,
rose the cml'.ankments of the cliasm it has worn
' for itself, m the lajisc of ;iges — a noble gorge,
worthy of its mighty waters. The northern one
might properly be termed a mountain running
continuou-.lv alont; the water's edge, 700 or 80(1
' feet in hijvt, iihii U, shining, and sliriibiess. The
southern o'k- consisted of earthy bluft's. a'terimt-
iiig with ^lifl's fn.iu 100 to 100 feet above the
stream, tiirretcd with basaltic shafts, some twen.
ly others 100 feel alxive the subjacent hills. —
Passe, I a few horst-s traveling industriously from
one 'visp of dry bunch grass to another. Kvery
thing unnatural, dry, brown, and detolate. —
C'limlM'd the bights liear sunset, and had an ex-
tens, ve view of the country south of the river. It
' was a treclciis, brown expanse of (iearth, vast roll-
: ing swells of sand and clay too dry to iH'arworm-
wood. No inountaijis seen in thai direction. On
the north they rose precipitously from the river,
and hid from view the country beyond. The
Wallawalla Indians brought un drift-wood and
fresh salmon, lor which they desired " shmoke,"
tobai'co.

'i. Continued to descend the river. Karlyinthe
day, basalt disappeared from the blutls ; and the
country north and isouth opened to view live or

Travels in the Cheat Western Prairies,

ax niilca from llii: stream. It was partially cov-
rrcd with dry Imnrh graiss; (jrnups of Indian
horsos ocrasionally appeared. Hut I was ini.
pressed witli tlie belief thai the jonriieyinKH from
one qiiic' of jrraRs to another, and from these to
water, were sullieient to enfeeule the eoiislitutioM
of the befit horse in Chrislendoni. The wihl
wornnvood, of " blessed memory," greeted my
eyes and nose, wlicrever its Herayseould find sand
to nourish them.

During the day 1 w.is jrratilied with tlu^ Hii;lit
of five or six trees, and these a larife species of
willow, themselves Hjnall anil Ih)W(uI witliai;e;
stones and rocks more or less fused. .\ stroni;
westerly wind hutl'tled nie ; and nnieli of the
time tilled the air with driltini; sand. W f en-
eamped at the water side about thnc o'cloeU. I
had thus a tine opportunity of aseendini; the
liights to view the sonthern plain. 'I'he slopas
were well covered with i;rass, and s(,eiued easy of
atieent ; but on trial proved e.\trcmil3' lalNirious.
1 however climbed slowly and patiently the long
sweeps, for two hours, and gaineil nothing. Nay,
1 could see the uohle river, like a l'>ng line of
liipiid fire blazing with the light of the western
Hun; and the rusli wigwams of the Wnllawallas,
dotting the sands of the op]K)sile shore ; and the
barren bUiH's and rocks beyond them )iiled away
into space. 15ut to the se.itli my vision was
hemmed in by the constantly rising swells. No
extensive view could be obtained from any of the
bights. The sun was fast sinking, and the bills
rose as I advanced. I was so weary that I ef)uld
go little further. But taking a. careful view of
the peaks which would guide me back to my
camj), I determined to travel on till it should be.
come too dark to see what might open before inc.
I eUmbcd slowly and tediously thi! seemingly end-
less Bwells, lifluig themselves over and Injyond
each other in beautiful, hut to my wearied limbs
and longing eyes in most vexatious contimiity,
till the sun dipped his lower rim Ijcneath the hori-
zon. A volcano hurst the hills, thought I ; and
on I trudged with the Uttle strength tliat a large
(piantity of vexation gave nic. Fires blister your
beautiful brows, 1 half ottered, as I dragued my-
iu'lf up the eiw»« ning ejumenee, an<l saw the pla-
teau duclimng in im-gular undulations far into
the southwest — a stordc waste, clothed in the glo.
rics of the last niys of a splendid sunset. The
crests of the distant swells were fringed with
hunch grass ; not a shrub or a tn e on all the
field of vision; and evidently no water ncirer
than the (^ilnmbia. Those cattle which arc, in
the opinion r)f certain travelers, to depasture these
plains in future lime, nuist he of sound wind and
limb to gather food and water the sinie day. I
found myself so wearied on attaining this goal of
my wishes, that, notwithstanding the laleiuss of
the hour. I was literally compelled to seek some
rest tvUirc atlem])ting to descend. I therefore
HCiitod myself, and in the lu.\ury of re[H)se per-
iintud darkness to commence creeping over the
landscape, before I coidd rouse myself to the ef.
fort of moving. And w hen I did start, my style
ol locomotion was extremely varied, and withal
Rometinies not the most pleasa U to everv portion
of the mortal coil. My teel w* f. i" iintaqucnt-
ly twi.-e or thriee the length of tt« d measure in
advance of my body. But the rv-adcr must not

suppose that this eircmnstanee diminished my
speed. No, I continued to slide down the
hills, using as vehicles the small ;;b:irp stones be.
ueatli me, until an opportunity olVered to put my
nether e\lrriuili("s uuiler me aguLii. Once I bad
nearly plunged headlong from a iirecipicc somi^
.'ill led high, and saved )nyscll' by catching a
wormwood bush standing within three feet of the
brink, rinally, without any serious mishap, I
arrived in camp, so completely e.vbaiisteil, that,
without tasting food, I threw myself on my couch
for the night.

.'Id. Thei^arlby hlufi's continued to bind the
chasm of the riv'rr till mid day, when biittri'SHes
of basalt took their place. A little bunch grass
grew among the wild wormwood. Turki^ys,
grouse, and :i spedies of large hare frequently
appeared ; many ducks in the stream. For three
hours before sniisct the trail was rugged and pre-
cipitous, often overhanging the rivi'r, and so nar
row that a mis-step of four inches would have
plunged horse and rider humlreds k( feet into the
Iwiling IliMid. lint as Skyuse horses never make
such (lisagreeable mistakes, we rode the steeps in
safely. Fncaniped in a small grove id' willows
The "river along the day's march was hemmed in
by lofty and rugged" mountains. The roek»
showed indubitable evideneesol ii volcanic origin.
.\s the sun went down, the Wallawalla village
on the opposite shore san;: a hymn in their own
language, to a tune which I have often heard
sung in Catholic, churches, before the image of
the Virgin. The country in the soulli, as seen
from the bights, was broken and barren ; view
limited in all directions, by the unevenness of the
surface.

•Itli. -Vwakcncd this morning by ihe fall of an
hundred tons of rock from the face of the moun-
tain near us. The earth trembled as if the slum-
bering volcanoes were wrestling in its bowels.
We were brought to our feet, and oiieued and
rubbed our eyes with every mark of despatch.
My " jioor crane " and his hopeful .son condts-
ceniled to appear shocked ; an event in an In-
dian's life that occurs as seldom as his birth. I
had stationed myself near the fallen rocks as the
sun's first rays awoke the morning hymn of the
Indian viir.ifi. [I was a sHiet Wild tune that
they sung to (iod among the dark mountains ol
the Columbia. And sweeter, ])erhaps. in such a
])lace, where every motion of the heart is a moni-
tion that one is alone, and every thought brings
with it the remembrance that the social affections
are separated from the objects of their fondness,
and where every moral sensibility is chilled by a
sense of desolation and danger, calling into exer-
cise the resisting and extenninating propensities,
and where the holy memories of home find uo re-
."jionBC but in some loved star in the unchanging
heavens. In such a i)laco how far sweeter than
anything beside is the evidence of the religious
principle — the first teaching of a mother's lovo,
rising over Ihe wastes of nature from the altar of
a pure heait^tbe incen.se of love going up to the
heaveidy presence. At S o'clock wo were on
route ; at 9 o'clock approached the bend in the
river, where it changes from a southwest to a
northwest course. .\t this place the clitT's which
overhang the southern bank presented a fine eol-
lection of basaltic coluiuns. Along the margin of

in the jRock'j Mountains, the Oregon Terrilory, tfc.

the rivfr Iny hillockB of Hroria", piled loprlhor in
iivrry iinapiniiblc form of confusion. Among
♦ hrivi grew connidrrnlilp qnanlitiff of bnnch grass, I
on which a hand of Wallawalla liorscs w<r(' feed. '
iiig. Siind-hillH on the opposite shori; ron- KKIO
feet in the air. Ifasall occurred at iiilervals, in a
more or li'tw perfect ntate of fonualioii, till the
hour of noon, wlien Uic trail led to the liahc of a
ficricH of cohinniM extending Ihree-fourlliH of a mile
down Ihf! haitU. These were more perfectly
formed than any previously seen. They swelled
from a large curve of the mouiitaia side, like the
IwBlioilH of ancient castles; and oik^ Beries of lofty
columns lowered alK)ve another, till the last was
surmounted hy a crowning tower, a little alK)vc
the level of the plain Ix'yon J. And their penta-
gonal lorin, longiiiidinul sections, dark shining
Iracture, and iinmciiKe mas-ses strown along my
way. hetokened me if not in the very im'sencc of
the (Jianl's t 'ausewny, yet on a B|HJt where the
Hame mighty energies had exerted themselves
which huildcd that rare, heaulihil wonder of the
Kmerald Isle. The river very tortuous, and shut
Ml hy high dykcH of hasall and sand hills the- re-
inaiiKlcr of the day ; saw three small rapids in the
('oluinl)ia; encamped at sunset; l(X) weary to
climl) the hiplils.

r>lh. Aros(^ at hrcnk of day, and ordering my
guide to make arrangements for starting as soon
n» I should rctuni, I ascended the iieighljoring
lieights. (irassy undulating plains in all <lirec-
tions south of the river. Far in the norllu'ast
towered the frozen i)eak of Mount Washington, a
perfect pyramid, clothed with eternal snow.s. The
view in the north was heiimicd in hy luoimtainH
which rose higher than the jilac.e of ohscrvation.
On descending, my guide I'rikic complained of
ill-heallli ; and assigned that circumstance as a
rciison why he shoidd not jiroeeed with nie to the
Dalles. I was much vexed with him at the lime,
for this unseasonable (Userlion, and hilicvcd that
the real inducement to his course was the danger
to he ap|)rehcnded from the Indians at the Sliutes.
Hut I uas sorry to learn from Dr. Whitman af-
terwards that the [Kior fellow was actually sick,
and that he sullen il imn'h at the sand hank en-
lamjnnent, where 1 left him. After paying C'ri.
kie fur Ins l.nllihil services thus far along, and
giviii;; him lour days' provision for him.self and
Imy, a VV;dlawalla Indian who had encamped
with us the previous m;_rhl, 'ook charge of t'rikie's
horses, hearing niyscll and jiacks, and led the
way down the river. The " \»n>r crane '" was an
honest, honoralile man ; and I can never think of
all his kind acts to me. Ironi the time I met him
in the plains heyond the Wallawalla mission, till
I left liiiii sick on the hank of thi' Cohimhi.i. with-
out wishing an Mppdrtnmlv to tcsiifv my sense of
iii-i moral woiili and goodness of heart in some
way which shall yield linn a suhslantial rewar<l
for all he sulVered in my service. 'l"wo hour.';"
ride hrought t'l inv ears the music of the "turn
Inmorler;"' the iTiilian-l'higlish lor the " thun-
dering waters" of the Shiites. These arc the
only perpendicular lalls uf the » oUmiliia, in its
course from the jimctiun of its great northern and
southern hianelies. to the ocean. And th<y do
indeed thunder. A stratum ol hlack rock lorm-
ing till' l)ed of the river aliove, hy preservuig its
horizoiitut poititioii, rincH at tlus place above the

n.atural surface of the slream, and forms an nb.
rupt precipice, hanging 60 lift in bight over
the bed l)rlow. The river, when I passed
w«« unfortim.itcly at its lowest stage — still the
.Sliules were terribly granil. The main body id"
the «Mler swept around near its southern bank,
and being there compressed into a narrow rough
channi 1, ehafid its angry way to the brink,
where, bending a massive curve, as if licHilalilig
to risk the leaji, it plunged into a narmw cavern
tiO feet deep, with a force and volume which
made the earth tremble. The noise was prodi-
gious, ileafcihng, and echoed in awful tumult
among the barren mountains. Further towards
the other .shore, smaller jets were rushing from
the iinprisoni'd rocks which elnslercd near the
brow of the elift", into other caverns; and close
under the north hank, and farther down the
stream, thundered another, nearly equal in gran-
deur to the one first described.

On the jiorlions of the rocky stratum left by
the ehathig waters, in we. ring out nnmcrouH
channels below the present situation of thcShulcH,
were the llag huts of 100 Wallawalla fishermen.
They were taking salmon with nvm)\t nets and
lione iiointed spears. These people were filthy
and naked. Some eat by fires swallowing roaiitcd
salmon ; otin rs greasing; themselves witli the oil
of that fish ; others were dressing and drying
them I others stood down on the projections in the
chasms, sweeping their nets in the foaming wa-
ters ; others, mothers, w ere devouring the vermin
from the heads of their children ; imtaiight, un-
elevated, least intelligent, least improvable liiunan
nature 1 It was not deemed safe to remain long
among these savages, wlio had begun to examine
my packs with more interest than strictly honest
intentions towards them seeincd to require, and I
took to the trail again on a fast trot. Some of
them endeavored to follow on loot, demanding a
tribute of '■ Kinoke" for the ]irivilege of jiassing
their dominions. Ihit having none at hand 1
PJishcd on, without regarding their suit, over sand
iiills, beds of volcanic stones, and hanging de
clivities, till rounding a basaltic buttress, 1 came
in view of the little plain on the senlh western
shore of the Dalle? The " Dalles," a French
term for " llat stones," is applied to a |)ortion of
the river here, where, hy a process similar to that
going on at ^Niagara, the w.'tcrs have cut chan-
nels through an immense slrjtnm of blaek rock,
over which they used to iVdl as at the iShutes. —
At low stages these arc of sufiicii iit capacity to
pa.'s all the waters. Hut the annual ll<Mjds over-
How the •' llat stones," and produce a lashing an<l
leaping, and whirling of waters, too grand fortlie
imagiudtion to conceive. These " Dalh s" arc
covcrcil with the huts of the (lieiiookH. a small
band ol a tribe of the same name, which iiiliab.
its the b.inkii of Columbia from this place to its
moulh. Tlii'v llatten their heads and perforate
the .-.cptiim ol the nose, as do the Wallawallas,
Sky use and iScz Prrees.

'I'he depression of the southern embatlkment
i>{ the chasm of the river at the Dalles, extends
iS mill s alonjr the stream, and from a h'if mile
to a mile in width. It is broken by ledges burst-
ing through the surface, and in parts loaded with
iniincnBc lioulders of detached rocks. Along llie
iiQrth.wcHteni border ore groves ot' snmll wliile

Travels in the Great Wesitrn Prairies,

oaks; and on llioliii;liIanilH'inllnt (lircctlnn aro for.
CBlH of pine, Hpnic'caiuloIlK ii'vrri;rriM'n«, dotliiii;;
thn wIioIp ciiiiiilry wi-Blwnrd lo tin' Piiowy |piiiksof
the I'n piHrnt'B Hnniri-. In the soiitliwrsi, sproUrd
willi rlustrrs nf liiiricli fjrassi, is an open rollin^r
plain, wliii.'li slivli'liis hcyoiid lliu rracli of vi«i()n.
In llic north rise sha . iimnntains, liiinlv (dad
witli I'vcrfjrct'n tri'OH . n'oiiijh an oprjnni; anioni,'
till' peaks (if which, apjM'arcd the Hliininj; apex of
Fount AdaniK. In thi- northcasi swccjis away in
brown barrcnncs!", naked ehlli< and siindy wastes.
I had taken a l)ird's-eye view of thi' l>alle» and
the region round alioul, when my IniMan eried
out " Lee liouse." And there it was, a mission
liouBc of the American 1'. K. Methodist Clmrch.
jn charge of Messrs. Lee and I'erkins.

I spent a week al the Dalles mission, ealiui;
salmon and prowini; f.it ; an event tliat hud not
lately occurred in the ri'pul)lie of the mcndiers of
my mortal eoidederaey.

Tlic liuiUlinirs of the mission, .'ire a (Uvelliiifj-
houHC, a house for worshi]/ and for seiiool purposes,
and a wcushop, &.e. The first is a lof; strneturt;
31) hy UO feet, one and a half stories hij,'h. shimrle
roof, and lloors made id ]ilank cut with a whip
Haw from th(' jiiues of the hills. 'I'he lower storv
is divi(Utd into two rooms — the one a ilininjj.room,
tliP other the family apartment of >Ir. Perkins and
lady. These are lined overhca<l and al the sides
witli heautifnl rush mats mannfaetnred liy the In.
diaiis. The upper slory is partitiimed into six dor.
mitorirs, and a school. room for Indian children ;
all neatly lined with jnats. Un<lerneatli is -.m ex.
cellent cellar. The huildinjj desifjued for a house
of worship, was beinij huilt when I arrived. Its
architecture is a cmiosity. The frame is made in
the usual form, save that instead of four main
posts at the corners, and others at considerahle
distiuices, for the support of lateral [;irders, there
were eleven on each side, and six on each end, hi',
bide the corner posts — all eipial in size and leuijth.
Uetwcen these hdlels of wood were driven trans.
ver6ely,on which as lalhiuf,', mortar made of clay
sand and straw was laid to a level with llicir ex.
teriorand interior faces. There is so little fallini,'
wealher here, that this mode of building was con-
sidered sulViciently substantial.

Messrs. Lee and I'erkins were formerly connee.
ted with the mission on the Willamette. Kijrli.
teen months before I had the hap])iness of enjov-
injT their hospitality, they came to Miis spot with
axes on their siioulders, felled trees, plou!;heil,
fenced, and planted 20 acres of land wilh their
own hands, and creeled these habitations of civi-
ligation and ehrisliauily on the bo.som of the howl,
ini; wilderness. 'J'hcir iiremiscs are situated on
olrvated ground, al)out a mile southwest from the
river. Innnc'dnlcly back is u ^rrove of suiall
v.'hitc oaks and yellow pines: a liltle north, is a
sweet spring bnrstuijr from a ledireof rocks whirh
supplies water for house use, and moistens aliont
an acre of rich soil. About a mile to the south,
are two or three hundred ;icres of tine land, with
grove.^ of oaks around, and an ab\inilan , snjiply
of excellent water. Here it was the intention of
the mission to open a farm under the care of a
layman from the .States. A mile and a Inilf lo the
north, is a tract of about two hundred aces. su.s.
ceptibic of beiuji ))lculifully irrigated by a number
of large btreaiiia that pour down upon it licnn the

western mountains. Here, too, (hoy inieinled lo
locate laymen to open farms, ami exirael from the
idle earth the means of feeding themselvc*, the
Indians, and the way-worn while m:m from tlie
bunit soliludes of the mouulains. .No location,
not even the sacred precincis of St. licinard, on
the snows of the Alps, could be heller chosen for
the operations of a holy beuevoleuec. 'I'he In-
dians from many ipiarlers Hock lo the Dalles and
Ihe .Shnlcs m thi' spring, and aidumn, and winter
to purchase salmon; the conuncrcial movements
liclwccn Ihe Stales and the I'acilic, will passthrir
door ; and therein allcr days, the slurilv emigrants
from the Slates will slop, as did the pilgrims on
riyiiionlh rock, lo give grateful praise to lliin
who stood forlli in Iheiraid, not indeed while strng.
glingon the foamy billow, but on the burning
plain and Ihe icy elil!', and in the deadly turmoil
of Indian bailies on the way, and seek food and
rest for their emaciated frames, before entering the

1 woody glens and llowering evergliules of I/iwer
Oregon.

-V saw.mill, a grist-mill, and other maehiiiery
necessary to eiirry out a liberid plan of operations,
arc in eonlemjilalioii. 'i'he fruit of Ihe o;ik, it is
supposed, will su|(porl 1,(111(1 hogs from ihe middle
of August to the midillc of April, The products
of Ihe arable V'"' will siiHice lo make llial num.

' her into marlieiaoie jiork. And as the grass and
other vegetation grow there during the winter

I months, twenty-live or Ihirly sipiare miles of pas-
turage around about, will enable them lo raise, at
a trilling expense, immense numbers of sheep,
horses and cattle. I''ive acres of ground culti-
vated in If^^til, produced 'J.') bushels of the small
grains, 7,"> bushels of potatoes, and considerable
ipiautilies of other vegelables. This was an ex.
perimeiit only eu soil not irrigated. (Miillemen
siip|iose it capable of producing double that
amount, if irrigated. The .season, too, was unu.
sually dry.

Around about Ihe mission are clusters of friable

I sandstone rocks of remarkable, form. Their
bight varies from 10 to 30 feel; their basilar di.
amcters from 3 lo 10 feel ; their shajic generally
resembles that of Ihe obelisk. These, I.") or UO
in number, slandiiig among the oaks and pines,
often in cluslers, and sometimes solitary, give u
slrange interest of antiipiily to the sjiot. .\nd
this illu>icm is increased by a rock of anolhcr
form, an immense boulder resting upon a short,
sk'iider pedestal, and strikingly resembling the
Lgyptian .'ipliyiix. The Indian tradition in re.
gard to Ihem is, that they were formerly men,
who, fer some sin against the (ileal Spirit, were
changed lo sloiic

! ^ At the Dalles is the upper village of the ("he-
nooks. .Vt the .Sliiites, live miles .iImivc, is the
lower village of the W'allawallas. Accordingly

I one of the missionaries, Mr. Lee, learns the Che-
nook language, and Ihe other. .Air. I'erkins, the
Wallawalla. And llicir custom is lo repair, ou

' .'^abbath days, each to his own people, and teach

i them the Cliristian religion. Tlie I'lienooks Hat.

(ten their heads more, and arc more stupid than

i any other tribe on the Columbia, There was one

: among the Dalles bami, who, it was said, resisted
so iibstinalcly the kind elliirts of bis parents lo
crush his skull iiilo the aristocratic shape, that

I they abandoned liuu lo the cuic of iiulure in this

in the Rocky Mountains, the Oregon Terrilor;/, ^.

regard; and miirli to tlin Hcnndnl of IiIh fnniilj*,
hiH liriid (jrcw in tlio imliiral loriii. 1 Haw liini
every (lay while I l-.irrii'd llicrc. Ho wnn t\'\.
dt'iitly Ihc most intcUignit nno of the hand. His
name iB UobIou ; ho eallcd, hctauw. Ilii lorm of
his head rcwmhlrH that of AmcricaiiH, ivImjmi ihr
JndiunH eull •' llontoti," in order lo diHtin(fiiisli
tlicm from " Kinjj (irorjje'a nun," — the HikIh n
Hay C'oini)any (jcnlleiniri. HoHlon, nllhoii(;li of
nic'un origin, hun, on aiconnt of liin 8U|i(.rior cn-
fTjiy and inttlli^jcncc, hucume the war chief of
th('|UulU'H.

On the inorninf; of the Mill, F overhauled my
hajffrafro preparalory to deHcendinjj the river. In
doinjf Ko, I waB miieli vexed to lind that the In-
dians ha<l, in some manner, drawn my sa<ldle to
the window of the work-shop in which it was
depoHiled, and stripped it of Btirrn|is, Blirru|).
Htraps, surcin(;le, (rirths, and crnpper. 'I'lii y had
also stolen my bridle. 'I'he loss of these arlieles
in a region where th(^ like eoidd iiol. he piinhuHed
— articles .so necessary lo me in earryin;; out my
<leBip;nH of travel inn over the lower eonntry,
roused in niethe hitterent determination to reijaln
I hem at all ha/.anlH. And without relleetinj; for
a moment nj>on thedisjiarilv of mnnhershetwecn
my Mingle yelf and 10 or iM) ahle.hodied Indians,
1 armed myself eom])lelely, and marched my
solitary hattalion lo the camp of the principal
chief, and entered il. lie was away. I ex-
plained lo some persona there by Hijfns and a few
words, the ohjcet of my search, and inarched my
army to an elevalcd position and halted. I had
been atationed but a short lime, when the Indians
began to collect in their chiefs lodge, and whis.
per earnestly. Ten minutes tiassed thus, and In-
dians were constantly arriving and euleriint. I
was Hupported in the rear by a lusty oak, and so
far as I remendier, was ready lo exclaim with
Ihc renowned antagonist of Roderick Ohn,

" Come oaa, come all," Si.( ;
but never having been a hero before or since, I
uni not (piite certain that I thought any such
tiling. i\ly wrath, however, was extreme. To
be robbed for the first time by Indians, and that
by Buch cowardly wretches as these Chcnooks
were — the tiltliiest scales of linman nature ; and
robbed too of my moans of <xploring (Jrcgon,
when on the very threshold of the most charniing
part of it, was an ignominy and an inconven.
icnce wortli a battle lo remove. .Inst at the mo-
ment of this lofty conclusion, 3H or 10 Indians
rushed around me ; eight or ten loaded muskets
were leveled at my chest, within ten feet of me,
and the old chief stood within live feet with a
duelling pistol loaded, cocked, and pf)inled at my
heart. While this niovcmcnl was being made, 1
brought my ride lo bear up"n the old cliiei's vital
organs. Thus both armies stood for the space of
five minutes, without the movement of tongue or
muscle. Then one of the brave,* intimated that
it was "not good" for mc to be out with arms;
and that I must immediately accommodate my-
self within doors. Hut to this proposition the
bravery of my army woiMd not sidimil. 1 accor-
dingly informed liiiii io that ed'ect. Whereupon
the opposing army n < nt into a furious rage. At
this juncture of alVairs, Mr. Lee came iiji, and
acted as inlcrpreter. He inquired into the difli-
culty, and was told that the " whole Clienook

tribe was threatened with invamon, and nil the
horrors of a gi ueral war, ind on what account
Ihcy knew not.'' Tlie commander rif my army
reported that they had ri'libcd him, and deserved
such treatment ; ami Ih.il he had taken arms to
annihilate the tribe, uiiIcbs they restored to him
what they had stolen. I was then told that
" it was not good for me to appear in arms, that
il was good lor me lo go into the linuse." To
this, iiiy army with one voice replii d, " nay,
never, nevir leave the gromul or 111,' Chcnooks
alive, tribe or cliii f, if llie stolen properly be not
restored;" and wheeling my baltiliop, drove liiil
cine Hank and then the ollnr of the opposing
liosts, Till viirds into the deplli" of the forests. —
During this movemenl, worthy of the best days
of .Spartan valor, the old chief stood amazed to
sec his followers with guns loaded and cocked,
lice before such infrrioi numbers, .\fler cll'ect-
ing the eom|ilcte route of llu! opposing infantry,
the army under my command took up the old
position without the loss of a single man. But
the old chief was still there iis dogged and sullen
as Indian ever was. (.>n approaching him, he
presented his pistol again near my ehcBt, where-
upon my rilli' was instanlly in a jiosilion to r<'a<'li
his. And thus the renowned leaders of Ihcfc
mighty Hosts stood for the space of an hour, with-
out bioodshed. Perhaps tiie, likc> of that chief
was never seen ; such unbh'nching coolness — ex-
cepting always the heat which was thrown olt' in
a healllifid and profuse pers])iration — and such
perfect undaimlediu ss, e.vf'cpt an imi)li'aBant
knocking of the knees together, produced proba-
Illy by the anticipaled blasts of IJeecmber. Hut
wiiile these exhibitions of valor were being en-
acted, one stirrup was thrown at my feet, and
then the other, and then the straps, the crupjicr,
&c. \c., until all the most valuable articles lost,
were piled before me. The compicst was com.
picte, and will doubtless shed inunortal lustre
upon the gallant band, who, in the heart of the
wilderness, dared to assert and maintain, against
the encroachmenls of a nunierous and weil-dia.
cipiined foe, the "elite" of the C'licnixik army, the
rights and high jirerogative of brave freemen and
soldiers. The nimiber of killed and wounded of the
enemy had not been ascertained, when the troops
under my coimnand departed for the lower country.

In the evening which succeeded this day of
carnag<', the old chief assembled his surviving fol-
lowers, and made war speeches untd midnight. —
His wrath was inimeasurable. On the following
morning, Ihc Indians in thecmploy of theniisBion
left their work.

Almut Id o'clock one of tlic tribe ap|x:arcd with
a pack-horse lo convey Mr. Lee's and my own
packs to the water side. The old chief also ap-
jicared, and bade him desist. He stood armed be-
fore the house an hour, 'making many threats
against the Hostons, individually and collectively ;
and finally retired. As soon as he had entered
his lodge, the horse of his disobedient subject was
loaded, and rushed to the river. An efi'ort was
made lojgct oarsmen for our canoe, but the old
hero of a legion oi devils told them " the high Hos-
ton woidd kill them all, and that they must not
go with liiiii." Mr. Lee, however, did not dcs-
(lair. We followed the baggajre towards the river.
W hen within a quarter of a inilc of it, two Ainc-

Traveli in the Great Western Prairies,

ftbanSi nioiiibriH nf Ricliiinlwin'R p.irty, Mr. Ijti
and nn liidiin or two, llinl tlir olil I'liirl' lind not
Micrrrdcd in iViiililr'niiiir, |(H)k iIk^ raiiop from llic'
IiiihIick, iiiid iMirr il liillir ri\tT on lluir HlioiildcrM.
'I'll! iiilivrs wcrr Htiiljorird licyoiid rillcdliol ii|iom
Ilic rocliB on rillirr nldc ol' tin' wi'v. Iiowk loid nr-
niw'H, iind ;riii>s lit liaiid. Iildiilii llonloii UaH in
••ojMiniind. Ili^ Htooil on (he lollirHl rock (iriiid.
inu his Itclh, iind (;rowlin}f lilir a lilood-lioinid,
" Kodtoiis iiL'li ; " iiiiil H|iriM!;iiii; ii|pon liiH Ihiw,
ilrovi' luH iirroHH into Ilic (rrmmd willi dctiioniuc
inadnrHs. 1 Hlopjird, iiiut dri'W my rillc Ici my
liiri', wlicroiijHiii llicrc uMK a grand rrlrrat licliind
Ihc rockn. Aly army marched nlowly and niajcH- '
tioally oii,aH hccamc thi' ilijrnilvol vcl<'rim viclorH.
The women and children tlr<l I'roni the wiffwanm
hy thi' way 1 and the lenr of the annihilation of
(he whole Irihe only alialod when my wrath wan,
to liieir nnderKlandmif, appeased liy the inlerfe-
reiiec of Mr. Iac. 'I'lniH Ihetrilic was waved from
my venjrrancc — llu' whole iimnher, llfty or »ixty
HlonI HavapcH, were waved! An instanei! of ele-
niency. a parallel to which will Hcarcely he found
in the hislory of past ai^cR.

Iteini; convinced at last, that my inlenlionH to.
ward them had liecomc more paeiCic, six oarsmen,
u Iniwsman. and iitcerhman were readily en};a(rc(l
hy Mr. Lie, andhc Bhov<(l oil' from that memora-
hie haltle.gromid on a voyajro to the Willamette.
'J'hia hand of Indians have In en notorious thievcH
ever since Ihry have liceii known to the whiles.
Their meanne.ss has heen eqnally well known. —
Dislilule of every manly and moral virtue, they
and llieir fathers havt^ linni; around the Dalles,
«'ntcn Salmon, anil rotted in idleness and vice ;
active only in mischi( f, and honest only in their
eronehin}; cowardice towards those lluy suppose
alile to punish their villainy. There is some very ;
curious philosophy amou'^ them : as for example,'
they helicve human existence to he indestruetlhle
hy the laws of nature ; and never diseased, uidess
made s<i hy th(^ Medicin men or conjurers, who
are helicved to entir into the system in an unseen
inanntr, and pull at tlu^ vitals. They also hold
that one i\le(liein man can cast out another. — \
Aceordiuffly when one of them is called to a
])alient, and does not suc-eecil in reslorintj him to
lieallh, he is hi lieved to he accessory to his death,
and is punished as such hy the relatives of the '
deceased. !

Their mode of treating patientR is to tliriiBt tlicni
into a sweat oven, and Ihence reiking with per.'
spiralicm into the cohl .streams. After this, they
are sirelcheil out al len;^lh on the jrronnd, wrapped
very warndy, and kneailed and rolled and rnlilied
\\' it h great sevirily. 'I'he al)dom< 11 is violently
pressed down to the spine, and llie forehead
jiressed with the mighl of the operalor ; Ihc arms
and limbs pinched and rulihrd, rollcii iiud hruised.
iMeaowhile the conjuror is ntlering most beastly
noises. As might be sujiposed, palienis hdioriiig
nnder the febrile diseases are sihiii destroyed. 1]\
order, lio.vever, to keep nji their inlluence among
the pcop!.\ the conjurors of a trilx'. male and le.
male, have eabalaslio dances. After the darkness
of night sets in, they gather together in a wigwam,
build a large lire in the centre, spread the lltxir with
elk skins, set up on end a wide cedar board, und
suspend near il a stick of wood in a. horizontal
jwsition. An individual sciics the end of the

■I Stic

k, nwingR tlie other end njrainiit tlic i-rdnr
Uiard, mill thus hc,it« noisy tiinr to a hiill moro
noisy chant. The dance is comrneneed Bometinirs
by a man alone, and often by n man and woman.
.•\riil various and sir.inge are Ihe bodily eonlor-
lions of Ihe perfoniurs. They jump up and down,
and swing Iheir arms with more and more vio.
lenec as the noise of Ihe singing and Ibumpillg
aecoinpamment iiK'reases, and yelp, and froth at
Ihe mouth, till the musician winds up with tlio
woril " iiali " — !i long strong gutleral gruni ; or
until some oni^ of Ihe dancers falls apparently
dead. When the laller is the case, oni- of the
number walks around Ihc prostrate individual,
and calls his or her name lou<lly nt each ear, at
IIk' nose, lingers, and iocs. After this eerfinony,
the Bujiposed dead shudders greatly, and comeKlo
lile. And thus they continue to sing, and thump,
and dance, and die, and come to life Ihrongh Ihc
night. They aii' said to he very expert at sleight
of hand.

The Chenooks, likiuill oilier Indians, believe in
exisli'iice ali( r dialh ; but Iheir viiws of Ihc con-
ditions of that exislenee, 1 lonld not learii. The
conjurors teach Iheni that lliey themselves shall
be able to visit their tribe alter Ihe iKidy shall
have decayed; and when approaching Ihc end of
their days, inform the people in what shape they
will manifest tliemse^lve. Some elioosi> a horse,
others a deer, others an elk, Slc, und when they
die, the image of their transmigrated state in
erected over their remains.

The reader ia desired to consider Mr. Lee and
myself gliding, arrow.like, down the deep clear
t'olumbia, at two o'clock in the aflernoon of
Ihe loth, and to interest hiniKelf in the liold
mountain embankments dollied with the deep,
living green of lofty pine and lir forests, while i
revert to the kind hospitalities i>( the Dalles mis.
sion. Yet how entirely impossible it is, to relali^
all that one enjoys ii. every muscle of the body,
every nerve and sense, and every aU'eetion of the
spirit when he tlccs from the liarilBliii)s and loneli-
ness of deserts to the comforts of a bed, a chair,
and a table, and lh<' holy sympathy of hearlK
moulded and controlcd by the higher senliments.
I had taken leave of Mr. ami Mrs. Perkins, wilh
Ihe feelings that one experiences in eivili/ed lands,
when leaving long tried and congenial friends. —
TIk! good man urged me to return and explore
with him, during the rainy season in Ihe lower
country, some extensive and bi autiful praini'>,
which the Indians say lie sixty or seventy uilcM
in Ihe north, on l\w east side of the Presi.-I iit'i)
range ; and .Mrs. I', kindly projiosed to web Uiie
my retnrii for that object wilh a splendid stu )!
buckskin, to he used in my journeyings.

Hut 1 must leave my friemls, to inlrodiiee the
reader to the " Island of the lonibs." .Mr. Lee
ixiintcd to it, as the tops id" the cedar Uiard houses
of Ihe dead peered over the hillocks of sand and
rock among w/iicli they stood. We moored our
canoe on the western side, and climbed up a pre-
cipice of black shining rocks iiUO feel ; and wind-
ing among drifts of sand the distance of 100 yards,
came to the tombs. They consisted of boxes 10
or 1:^ feet square on the ground, W or 10 high,
made of cedar boards fastened to a rough frame,
in an upright jiosition at the sides, and hori/on-
tally over the top. <Jii thein iuid about lliein

in the Rocky M»unluins, the Oregon Territory, ^v.

wow th« cooking (itrniiilH nnd otiipr pemonnl
properly of tlic (Icccii^rd. Williiii wcrr llio diiid
bodies, \vr:if)pod in nimiy tliirkiii«H<« ol' dcrr nnd
flk nkinn, tiijlilly InHlud willi Iciillicr llinncB nnd
liiid in n |iilr with their hciidn to thr r;isl. I'n.
dcrncnth Ihi- undrniyrrl lindirs were niiiny bonis
from which the flidh ami wrappings Iwid IHllon : in
Home iiiKtiinrrH ii iiMinhcrof w;i!{oii loads. Tlircr
or four ol' the tondis had };oni' to rninH; and the
BkidlH iind other hones lay strewn on the i;ronnd.
The sknlls were all tliitteni/d. I picked up one
with the intention of hrinjfirii; it to the Slales.
Dnt lis Mr. Ii, a.ssured tne that the hii;h venera.
tion of the livin;; for the deail would make the
nllenipl very dan({iron», I rchiolanlly returned it
to its reytinj; place.

\V> i;li(l<'d merrily down the river till snimet,
ojiil landi'il on the northern shore to snp. The
river hail varied from one to one and a half miles
in width, with rather a Blui{(,'isli current; w.iter
clear, ei«)l, and very deep. Various kinds of
ducks, ilivrrB, &.C. were U|«)n its beautiful surface,
'i'he hair hiuI was alinndanl. The moimtainH
rose nbrnptly on either side from .'iOO to li.OIIII feet,
in sweepinjj hiijlits, clail with evirj;recn trees.
ISomi? few small oaks (;rew in the nooks by the
waterside. .Vmonjr these were Indian wijfWiuns,
constructed of boards split from the rod cedar on
the mountains. I entered soiiie of them. They
were filthy in the extreme; lleas und other vit.
inin snlBciently nbimdaril. In one of them was
n sick man. A withered old female was kneading
and |)inchinif the devil out of him. He was
laborin({ under a bilious fever. But as a " Medi-
cin uuui " was i)idlui;^ at his gall, it was neces.
miry to expel him ; and the old Im^ pressed his
head, bruised his abdomen, Sir. with the fury and
groauiiip; of a bedlamite.

Xot an acre of arable land a))pcarcd along tlic
shores. The Indians subsist on fish, and acorns
of the white oak. The former they eat fresh
durinij the summer; but their winter stores they drv
and preserve in the followin;; manner : The spme of
the fish heinij taken out, and thefiesh beinjj slashed
into checks with a knife, so as to exiMJse as much
surface as possible, is laid on the rocks to dry.
After becoming thoroiiirhly li.ard, it is bruised to
imwder, mixed with the oil of the leaf fat of the
fish, and packed away in (lag sacks. Although
no salt is used in this preparation, it remains good
till May of the (bllowing yi'ar. The acorns, as
soon as they fall from trees, arc buried in sand
constantly saturated with water, where they re-
main till siiriiir. I'y this soaking their hitter
flavor is said to be destroyed.

After supper Mr. Lee ordered a launch, and
llie Indian [laddles were again dipping in the
bright waters. The stars were out on the clear
mght, twinkling as of old, when the lofty peaks
around were heaved from the depths of the vol-
cano. They now liKiked down on a less grand,
indeed, but more lovely scene. The fires of the
natives blazed among the woody glens, the light
canoe skimmed the waters near the shore, the
winds groaned over the inountam lops, the cas-
cades sang [from clifV to elill', the loon shouted
and dove beneath the shining wave ; it was ;<.
wild, almost unearthly scene, in the dee|) gorge of
the Columbia. The rising of the moon changed
its features. The profoundcst silence reigned, save
u

the daith of pnddlci timt echoed faintly from the
shored; our canoe uprang lighllv over the npplini;
waters, the Indian fires Bmonl'tcrcd nmong tho
waving pine^ ; the stars became dim, and tho
depths of till blue sky glowed une vast nebida nf
mellow light. Hut the eastern mountains hid
awhile the orb from sight. The south western
bights shone with its pale beams, nnd cant into
till' deeply sunken river a bewitching dancing of
light and shade, imeipialed by the pencil nf the
wilili si imagiiiatioii. 'i'he grandeur too of grove,
and elill', and mountain, and the miglilvColumbia
wrapped in the drapery of a golden miilnii'hll I
wns wholly loBt. It was the new and rapidly open,
ing piiiorama of the siilihnie wililernesH. And
the scene chiuigeil again when the moon wan
high in heaven. The cocks crew in the Indian
villages; the birds twittered on the Imiighs ; thn
wild lowls sercTiiiril, as her light gilded the chasm
of the river, and revealed Ihi' high rock IslaiiilH
with their rugged crags and mouldering tombs.
The winds from .Mount Adams were loaded with
frosts, and the poetry of the night was fist waning
into an ague, when .Mr. 1,. ordered the steersman
to moor. A crackling pine fire was soon blazing,
and having warmed our Hhivering frames, wo
spread our blankets and slept sweetly till the
dawn.

Ivirly*>n the morning of the Ifitli, our Indians
were pulling al the paddies. The sky was overcast,
and a dash of rain occasionally fell, — thn first I
had witnes.sed since leaving Hayou Salade. And
although the air was chilly, and the heavenii
gloomy, yet when the large idear drojifl ji iltered
on my hat, and fell in glad I'onfiision around our
little hark, a thrill of pleasure shot through my
heart. Dangers, wastes, thirst, starvation, eter-
nal ilearth on the etirth, and dowless heavens,
were matters only of painful recollection. Thn
present was the reality of the past engrafted on
the hopes of the future; the showery skies, the
lofty green moimt.iins, the tumbling cataracts,
the mighty forests, the sweet savor of teeming
groves — among the like of which I had breathed
in infancy— hung over the threshold of the lower
Columbia — the goal of my wayfaring. Hearken
to that roar of waters I see the h.iBtening of tho
flood I hear the sharp ri|)pling by yonder rock 1
The whole river sinks from view In ndvanc« of
lis! The I)0W,-iman dips his paditle deeply and
i]uicklv — the frail canoe shoots to the northern
shorn between a string of islands and the main
land — glides quickly down a narrow channel ;
passes a village of cedar board wigsvams on a
l)caulii"ul little plain to the right ; it rounds the
lower ii.land ; behold the Cascades 1 An immense
trough of boulders of rocks, down which rushes
the " Great River of the West 1 " The baggage
is ashore ; tho Indians are conveying the canoo
over the jwrtage, — and wlulc this is being done
the reader will have time to cxplori; the lower
falls of the ( 'olumbia, and their vicinage.

The trail of the Portage rims near the torrent,
along the rocky slope on its northern bank, and
terninates among large loose rocks, blanched by
the floods of ages, at tlie foot of the trough of the
main rapid. It is about a mile and a half io'if.
At its lower end voyagers reiimliark when th^
river is at a low stage, and run the lower rapids.
But when it is swollen by the amiual freeljets,

IMAGE EVALUATION
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Sciences
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€■■

TraveU in the Great Western Prairies,

Ihcy boar Ihcir Iwate a mile ami n )mlf fiirtlicr
down, whtTc tlic waleT in deep and Irss tuinultii-
OU8. In wulkiiij; down this path, I had a near
virw of (ho whole Irnfrth of the main rjipids. Ah
I have intimated, the In'd of the river here is a
vast inclined trough of white rocks, sixty or eighty
feet deep, about -lOO yards wide at the top, and
diminibliing to about half that width at the Imt-
tom. The length of this trough is about a mile.
In that distance the water falls about 130 feet ;
in the rapids, above and U'low it, alwut iJO feel —
making the whoh^ descent al)OUt 1,10 feet. The
quantity of water which passes here is incalcula-
ble. Hut an approximate idea of it may be ob.
taincd from the fact that while the velocity is so
great that the eye with diflieulty follows objects
floating on the surface — yet such is its volume at
the lowest stage of the river, that it rises and
bends like a sea of molten glass over a channel
of immense rocks, without breaking its surface,
except near the shores ; so deep luid vast is the
mighty flood! In the ,lune freshets, when the
melted snows from tlie western declivities of 700
miles of the Rocky Mountains, and those on the
eastern sides of the President's Range, come down,
the Cascades nuist present a spectacle of sublimity
equalled only by Niagani. This Is tlie passage
of the river through the IVcsidrnt's Range, and
the mountains near it on cither side are worthy
of their dislinLTuished name. At a short distance
from the wailhcrn shore thev rise in long ridgy
slopes, covered with pines and olher terebinthine
trees of extraordinary size, over the tops of which
rise bold black crags, wliich, elevating themselves
in great grandeur one beyond another, twenty or
thirty miles to the southward, cluster around the
icy bas<^ of Mount Washington. On the other
side of the cascades is a similar scene. Inunense
and gloomy forests, tangled with fallen timber
and imix'netrablc underbrush, cover mountains,
which in the Stales, would excite the profoundcs'.
admiration for tlieir majesty and beauty, but
which dwindle into insigniticance as they arc
viewed in presence of the shining glaciers and
massive grandeur of Mount Adams, hanging over
them.

The river alwve the cascades runs north west,
wardly ; but approaching the descent it turns
westward — and, aOer entering the trough south
westwardly ; and having pas.scd this, it resumes its
course to the north west. Hy this bend, it leaves
between its shore and the northern mountains, a
somewhat broken plain, a mile in width, and about
four miles in length. At the up|)er end of the
rapids this plain is nearly on a level with the river :
so that an inconsiderable rrcshel sets the water up
a natural e.lianncl halfway across the bend. This
circumstimec, and the absence of any serious ob.
structions in the form of hills, iVe. led me to sup.
pose that n canal might be cut around the cas.
cades at a trifling expense, which would not only
oi)cn steamboat navigation to the Dalles, but fur.
nish at thisinteresting spot, an incalculable amount
of water pov.-cr.

The canoe iiad been deposited among the rocks
at the lower end of the trough, our cocoa and lioil.
ed salmon, bread, i:utter, |)otatoc8, etcetera, had
lieen located in their proi)er de[M)8ilories, and wc
were taking a parting gaze at the rushing flood,
when the sound of footsteps and an order given

in French to de])osite n bale of goods at the
water side, drew our attention to a heart 3* old gen-
tleman of fifty or lifly.five, whom Mr. I<eo im.
mediately recognized as Dr. McLaughlin. He
was about five feet eleven inches in bight, and
stoutly built, weigliing about '200 pounds, with
large green blueish eyes, a ruddy complexion, and
hair of snowy whiteness. lie was on his return
from London with depatches from the II. B. Com-
pany's Hoard in England, and wilh letters from
friends at home to the hundreds of Hritons in its
employ in the northwestern wilderness. He was
in higli spirits. Kvcry crag in sight was familiar
to him — liad witnessed the energy and zeal of
thirty years successful enterprise — had seen him
in the strength of ripened manhood — and now be.
held liis undiminished energies crowi\ed with the
frosted locks of age. We spent ten minutes with
the doctor, and received a kind invitation to the
hospitalities of his |X)st ; gav<' om' cimrM', freighted
with our baggage, in charge of the In<lians, to
take down the lower rapids; and ascended the
blurt" to the trail that leads to the tidewater below
them. Wc climbed two hundred feet among small
spruce, pine, lir, and hemlock trees, to the table
land. The track was strewn with fragments of
petrified frees, from three inches to two feet in
dianirter. and rocks, (quartz and granitc.ex loco,)
mingled wilh olliere. more or less fused. Soon af-
ter striking the path on the plain, we came to a
beautiful little lake, lying near the brink of the
hill. It was clear and dirp. And around its
western, norlhern, and caslcrn shores, droo|icd the
boughs of a thick hedge of small evergreen trees,
which dip])ed and rose charmingly in its waters.
All around stood the lofly pines, sighing and groan,
ing in the wind. Nothing could be seen but the
little lake and the girding forest ; a gem of perfect
beauty, reflecting the deep shades ol the unbroken
wilderness. A little stream creeping away from it
down the blurt", babbled back the roar of the Cas.
cades.

The trail led us among deep ravines, clad with
heavy frosts, the soil of which was n coarse gravel,
thinly covered wilh a vegetable mould. A mile
from the lake, wc came upon a plain level again. In
this place was a collection of Inilian tondjs, simi.
lar to those upon Ihc " Island of tombs." There
were six or eight in number, and contained a great
quantity of bones. On the boards around the sides
were painted the figures of death, horses, i.ojjs,
&c. The great destroyer bears the same grm:
aspect to the savage mind that he does to ours. —
A skull and the fleshless Iwnes of a skeleton piled
around, were his sjMtdM)! upon these rude resting
places of the departed. One of them, which our
Indian said crMitained the remains of a celebrated
" Medicin man," Imre the figure of a horse rudely
carved from the red cedar tree. This was the
form in which his piisllinninuii visits were lo 1m;
made to his tribe. Small brass kettles, wooden
pails, and baskets of curiaus workmanship, were
piled on the roof.

Thence onward half a mile over a stony soil,
sometimes open, and .\i{ain covered wilh forests,
brought us to our canoe by the rocky shore at the
fool of the rapids. Air. Lee here |)omted nic lo'a
strong eddjnng current on the southern shore, in
which Mr. Cyrus Shepard and Mrs. Doctor White
and child, of thu Methodist Mission on the Willa-

sii

dii

tai

in th'' Rochj Mountains, the Oregon Territory, etc.

•

incite, were capsized the year before, in an attempt
to run the lower rapids. Mr. Khepard could not
swim — had sunk the second time, and rose by tlie
side of the upturned canoe, when he seized the
hand of Ma . White, wlio was on th(! opposite side,
and thus suBtaiiied himself and her, initil some (n-
dians came to their relief. t)ii reachinjj tin; shore,
and turning up the canoe, liio child was found en-
tangled among the eross-bars, dead !

Tlie current was strong where we reimtcrcd
our canoe, and bore us along at a lively rate. —
The weather, too, was very agreeable ; the sky
transp.irent, and glowing with a mild October
sun. The scenery about us was truly grand. A
few detached wisps of mist clung to the dark
ercgs of the mountains on the southern shore,
and numerous cascades shot out from the peaks,
nnd tumbling from one sheh to another, at length
plunged hundreds of leet among confused hcajis
of rocks in the vale. The crags themselves were
extremely picturesque; they beetled out so Ixjldly,
a thousand feet above the forests on the sides of
the mountain, and appeared to hang so easily and
gracefully on the air. .Some of them were basal-
tic. One I thought very remarkable. 'I'he
mountain on which it stood was alx>ut 1,200 feet
high. On its ^idc there was a deep rt)cky ravine.
In this, about 300 feet from the plain, arose a
column 30 or 40 feet in diameter, nnd, I judged,
more than aOO feet high, surmounted by a cap
resembling the pediment of an ancient church. —
Far up 'ts sides grew a number of sltfub eedar.^,
which {had taken root in the crevices, nnd, as
they grew, sunk down horizontally, and formed :
an irregular fringe of green around it. A short
distance further down was seen a beautiful eas. i
cade. The stream appeared to rise near the very i
apex of the mountain, and having run a number ,
of rods in a dark gorge between two peaks, it i
suddenly shot from the brink of a clifl' into the
copse of evergreen trees at the base of the moun-
tain. The liight of the pe.pendicular fall, ap- |
jicared to bo alxiut GOO feet. Some of tlu; water
was dispersed in spray liefore reacluug the
ground; but a large quantity of it tell on the
plain, and sent among the bights a noisy and
thrilling echo. On the north side of the river,
the mouiitains were less precipitous, and covered
with a dense forest of ])ines, cedars, firs, &c. !

The bottom lands of the river were alternately
prairies and woodlands. The former, clad with
a heavy growtii of t'c wild grasses, dry and
brown ; tlie latter, w h pine, lir, cotton. wood,
black ash, and vario .., kinds of shrubs. The ;
river varied in width from one to two miles,
generally deep and still, but occasionally crossed
by sand-bars. Ten or twelve miles Ih'Iow the
cascades we came upon one, that, stretching two
or three miles down the river, turned the current ;
to the southern shore. The wind blew freshly,
and the waves ran high in that quarter ; so it
was deemed expedient to lighten the canoe. To ■
this end Mr. Ix.'e, the two Americans and my- j
self, landed on the northern shore for a walk,
while the Indians should paddle around to the
lower point of the bar. W'a traveled along the
Ireach. It was generally hard and gravelly. —
Among the pebbles, I noticed several splendid
specimens of the agate. The soil of the Hats was
u vegetable mould, ciglitccn inclics or two fuct in j

depth, resting on a stratum of sand and gravel,
and evidently overflown by the, annual floods of
,Iune. The Hats varied from a few rods to a mile
in width. While enjoying this walk, the two
Americans started up a deer, followed it into the
woods, and, loth to return unsuccessful, pursued
it till long after our canoe was moored IhUow the
bar. So that Mr. Id'C nnd myself had abundant
time to amuse ourselves with all r.ianner of home,
ly wishes toward our persevering companions till
near sunset, when the three barges of Doctor Mc
Laughlin, under their Indian blanket sails and
saplin masts, swept gallantly by us, and added
the last dreg to our vexation. Mr. licc was
calm ; I was furious. What, for a paltry deer,
lose a view ol the Columbia hence to the Fort I
But I remember with satisfaction that no one was
materially injured by my wrath, nnd that my tni-
aut countrymen were sufficiently gratified with
their success to euiible them to bear with much
resignation three emphatic scowls, as they made
their appearanct! at the canoe.

The dusk of night was now creeping into tlic
valleys, and we had twenty miles to make. The
tide from the Pacific was setting up, and the
wind hid left us ; but oiu' Indians suggested tliat
the force of their paddles, stimulated by a small
pres(?nt of " shnioke" (tobacco,) would still carry
us in by 1 1 o'clock. We therefore gave our pro-
mises to pay the re(|uircd (juantum of the herb,
ensconced ourselves in blankets, and dojed to the
wUd music of the paddles, till a shower of iiail
aroused us. It was about 10 o'clock. An an-
gry cloud hung over us ; and the rain and hail
fell fast ; the wind from Mounts \Vashington and
Jeflerson chilled every fibre of our systems ; the
wooded liills, on Imth sides of the river, were
wrapped in cold brown clouds ; the owl nnd wolf
were answering each other on the bights ; enough
of light lay on the stream to show dimly the isl.
ands that divided its waters ; and the fires of the
wigwams disclosed the naked groups of savages
around them. It was a scene that the imagina-
tion loves. The canoe, thirty feet in length, the
like of which had cut those waters centuries be-
fore ; the Indians, kneeling two and two, and
rising on their |)ad(lles ; their devoted missionary
surveying them and the villages on the shores,
and rejoicing in the anticipation, that soon the
songs of the redeemed savage would break from
the dark vales of Oregon ; that those wastes of
mind would soon teem with a harvest of happi-
ness and truth, cast a breathing unutterable
charm over the deep hues of that green wilder-
ness, dimly seen on that stormy night, which
will give me pleasure to dwell upon while I live.
"On the bar," cried Mr. Lee ; nnd while our In-
dians leaped into the water, and dragged the ca-
noe to the channel, he |>ointed to the dim light of
the Hudson Hay Company's saw and grist mill,
two miles above on the northern shore. We were
three miles from Vancouver. The Indians knew
the bar, and were delighted to find themselves so
near the termination of their toil. They soon
found the channel, nnd leaping alward, j)lied their
their paddles with renewed energy. And if any
one faltered, the steersman rebuked liim with his
own hopes of " shinoke" and " schejotecut," (the
Fort) which never failed to bring tlie deUnqucnt
to duty. Twenty minutes ol' vigorous rowing

Travels in the Or eat Western Prairies,

moored ui at the Inndini;. A few hundred ynrds
below floated a ship and a Blfwp, scaicoly "ocn
through the fog. Or. Mie shore rose a levee or
breastwork, along which the dusky savapres were
gliding with stealthy and silent tread. In the
distance were heard voices in English Bpeakind'of
home. We landed, ascended llie levee, centered a
lane between cidti /ated fields, walked a quarter
of a mile, where, undor a long line of pickets, we
entered Fort Vancouver — the goal of my wander,
ings, the destination of my weary footsteps !

Mr. James Douglass, the gentleman who had
been in charge of the |iost during the absence of
Dr. McLiughlin, conducted us to a irioni warmed
by a well-fed stove; insisted that I hIiuuUI ex.
change my wet gamienls for dry ones, and prof,
fered every other net that the kindest hoHpilulily
could suggest to relieve nic of the diHcomforts re.
suiting from four months' journeying in the wil-
derneiM.

CHAPTER IX.

Depsrlure from Vanrouver— Wippnloo IstnnH— The Wit.
lninMliiRi'pr— lis Moutl.— Tlie Miiunlainj— Palls— River
abovelheKallj— *rriv*l atllie l<i«erMi"til<'mi'Bl— A Kt'n-
tacliinn— Mr. Johuson nntt his ('uliiii— Tboniat McKay
•dd hi« Mil —Dor.lor Baili-y anil Wile anil >lonii'— The
NelKlitwruie Parmer*— The MeUioilist Eplsci jiil Missl'in
anil Miiii»narle«— Their Moile« i-f Operalion-The Win-
item of (heir Course— Their IniprovenienU, he— Ite'iirn
lo Vancouver- Mr. Young— Mr. Lee's Misfonunf — De
•ceniofUieWillanimr— Indians— Arrival at Vancouver—
Oreeon— lis Mnunlaiiis, llivers ami Soil, anil Climate—
Hhlpiuent for the Sandwich iKlanils—Life at Vancouver—
Deiceit of the ColDnihia- A'lo in— On the Pacific Sea—
The Liut VIewof Oreeen— AcciiunI oi* Oregon, hy Lieut.
Wilkes, Commander uf the lale Kxploriiig E<prdilion.

On the moniinij of Uic 21st, I left tlic Fort and
dropped down me Columliia, five miles, lo Wap.
)>atoo Island. This large tract of low land is
boimded on the south-west, south and south-east,
by the mouths of the Willamette, and on the
north by the C'olumbia. Tin' side eontiguous to
the latter river is alxiut fillien miles in length ;
the side bounded by the eastern mnuth of the Wil-
lamette about seven milen, and that boinuled liy
the western mouth of the same river about twelve
miles. It derives its name from an edible root
Railed WappaUm, which it produces in abundance.
It is generally low, and, in the central parts, broken
with small ponds and marshes, in which the w:iter
rises and falls with the river. Nearly the whole
surface is overflown by the .Tune freshets. It is
covered with a heavy growth of eotton-wood, elm.
white-oak, black-ash, abler, and a large species of
laurel, and other shrubs. The Hudson May Com.
pany, some years ago, ])lace(l a few hogs u|K)n it,
whicli have sulwisted entirely uix)n nx)ts, acorns,
&c., and increased to many hundreds.

I found the Willamette deep enough for ordi.
nary steamboats, the distance of Hi) miles from
its western mouth. One mile below the falls are
rapids, on which the w.atci was too shallow lo
float our canoe. The tide rises at this place
about 14 inches. The western shore of the river,
from the point where its mou'hs diverge to this
place, consists of lofty mountains rising iiimie-
diatcly from the waier.side. and covered with
pines. On the eastern side, l)eautifid swells and
plains extend from the Columbia to witliin five
or six miles of the rapids. They are generally
covered with pine, white.oak, black-ash, and
other kinds of timber. From the point last
named to the rapids, wooded moimtains crowd

I ilown to the verge of the stream. Just below the
; rapids a very considerable stream comes in from
the east. It is said to rise in a champaign
countrj', which commences two or three miles
(nun the Willamette, and extends eastward 20
or 30 miles lo the lower hills of the President's
range. This stream breaks through the inoun.
tain tmniiltuously, and enters the Willamctli
with BO strong a current, as to endanger boats
attempting to pass it. Here were a number of
Indian huts, the inmates of which were busied in
taking and vuring salmon. Between the rapids
and the falls, the country adjacent lo the river, is
similar to that just deseril)ed ; mountains clothed
with im|)enetrable forests. The river, thus far,
appeared to have an average width fif 400 yards ;
water limpid. As we approached the falls, the
eastern shore presented a solid wall of basalt, 30
feet in ]KTpendicular hight. On the top of this
wall was nearly an acre of level area, on which
the Hudson Bay ('ompany have built a log-honse.
This plain is three or four feet below the level of
the water above the falls, and protected from Iho
floods by the intervi ntion of a deep chasm, which
separates it from the rocks over which the water
pours. This is the best site in the country for ex-
tensive flouring and lumber-mills. The valley of
the Willamette is the only jmrtion of Oregon from
which grain can ever, lo any extent, lieeome an
article of eximrt ; and this splendid waterfall can
be apiiroaelied at all seasons, from above and be.
low. by sliMips, schooners, &c. The Hudson Bay
Company, aware of its importance, have com-
ineneed a race-way, and drawn timber on the
gmund, with the apparent intention of erecting
such works. On the op{)osite side is an acre or
two of broken ground, which might be similarly
occupied.

The falls are formed by a line of dark rock,
which stretches diagonally across the stream.
The river was low when I passed it, and all the
water was dischargixl at three jets. Two f these
were near the western shore. The other was near
the eastern shore, and fell into the chasm which
divides the rocky plain before named, from the
clifl's of tlie falls. At the mouth of this chasm
my Indians unloaded their canoe, dragged it up
tlie crags, and having l)orne it on their shoulders
eight or ten mds, launched it U|xiii a narrow neck
of Water by the shore ; reloaded, and rowed to the
I deep water above. The scene, however, was too
interesting to leave so soon, and I tarried a while
. to view it. The cataract roared loudly among the
, caverns, and sent a thousand foaiuing cdd'.'S into
; the stream below. (Countless numlicrs of lalmon
were leaping and Adling U])on the fretted waters ;
savages alnioKt naked were around me, untrained
by the soothing influences of true knowledge, and
the lin|Hs of a |>urer world ; as rude as the rocks
on which they trod ; as bestial as the licar that
giowleil in the thicket. On cither hand was the
primeval wilderness, with its decaying and per-
;ietually.reiiewing energies ! Nothing could be
more inteiiKly interesting. I li;id but a moment
in these jileasiint yet painful reflections, wheir my
Indians, becoming impatient, called me to pursiio
my voyage.

A mile above the falls a large creek comes in
from the west. It is said to rise among tlic
mountains near tlic Columbia, and to run soath

in the Jtochj Moun(ain$, the Oregon Territory, etc.

nnd south.cast anel MBtwardly tlirou|rIi a Rcries of
fine prairim, intrmprrsrd with timlior. AIkjvi; tlio
fallM, the mountains riro iiiinirdiatcly from thu
•A-atpr's cdjfp, clothed with noblr forests of pine,
&e. ; hilt at the distanec of 15 miles almve, their
green ridges give plaeo to jjraBsy and wooded
swells on the west, and tinil)cred and prairie; plains
on the eastern side. This section of tlie river np.
pearcd navijrahle for any craft that could float in
the stream below the iulls.

It was (lark when I arrived at the level country ;
and emerifiiiw guddnnly in sight of a fire on tJie
western hanlt, my Inciians cried " Doston ! Bos.
ton ! " and turned the canoe ashore to pive ine
an opportiiiiily of speakine W'''' <^ fellow country,
man. He was sitting in the drizzlinj; rain, hy a
large lojr.fire — a stalwart six fofit Kentucky trap,
per. After long 8or\Mee in the American Fur
Companies, among the Rocky Mountains, he had
conic down to the Willnniette, accompanied by
an Indian woman and his child, selected a place
to build his home, made an ' improvement,' sold
it, nnd was now commencing another. He en.
ttred my cnnoe, and steered across the river to a
Mr. .lohnnon's. " I'm sorry I can't keep you,"
said he, " but I reckon you '11 sleep better under
shingles, than this stormy sk}'. Johnson will be
glad to see you. lie 's got a good slumtee, and
something for j-ou to eat." ^Ve soon crossed the
sirenm, and entered the cabin of Mr. Johnson.
It was a lie->vn log structure, alxml 30 feet square,
with a mud chimney, hearth and llrc-place. Tlio
furniture consisted of one chair, a number of
wooden benches, a nidi; liudstead covered witli i
flag mats, and several slieet.iron kettles, earthen j
plates, knives and forks, tin pint cups, an Jndian I
wife, and a brace of brown boys. I-jiassed the !
night pleasantly with Mr. .lohnson ; and in the ;
morning rose early to go to the Methodist Episco.
pal Mission, 13 miles alxive. Hut the old hunter j
detained me to breakfast ; and afterward insisted
that I should view his premises, while his Imy
should gather the horses to convey me on my
way. And a sight of fenced fields, many acres j
of wheat and oat-stubble, jiotato-tleldH, and gar-
den, vegetablea of all descriptions, and a barn well
Rloreil with the gathered harvest compensated me j
for the dt'lay. Adjoining Mr. Johnson's farm
were four others, on all of wliich lli-rc wi'rc from
fifty to a hundred acres under ei, ivation, and i
substantial log-houses and barns. One of these !
belonged to Thomas McKay, son of McKay |
who figured with Mr. Astor in the doings of the
Pacific Fur Company.

After surveying these niarkb of civilization, I
found a I)r. Hailey waiting with his horses to
convey nic to his home. We accordingly mounted,
hade adieu to the old trapper of Hudson Bay and
other parts of the frozen north, and went to view
McKay's mill. A grist-mill in Oregon ! We
found him working at lun dam. Near by lay
French burrntonei, and soino [Hjrtionsof Bubstan- j
tial and well-fash i.oned iron work. The frame of j
the mill-hoiise was raised and shingled ; nnil an
excellent structure it was. The whole expense cf i
the fstablishmi-nt, when coinpleled, is expected i
to be #7,(100 r)r .^8,000. McKay's mother is a !
('rce or (Jhipeway Indian ; and McKay is a '
Blrnnge comjKumH of the two races. The con. j
tour of his frame and iealurc*, is Scutch ; his

manners and intellections strongly tinctured with
the Indian. He has been in the service of the
Fur Companies all his life, save some six orieven
years past ; and by his daring enterprise, and
courage in battle, has rendered niinsclf the terror
of the Oregon Indians.

' Leaving McKay's mill, wc traveled along a
circuitous track through a heavy forest of fir and
pine, and emerged into a Ix!autifu1 little prairie, at
the side of which stood the doctor's neat hewn
log cabin, sending its cheerful smoke among the
lofty iiine tops in its rear. We soon sat by a
blazing fire, and the storm that had pelted us all
' the way, lost its unpleasantness in the delightful
i society of my worthy host and his amiable wife.
I passed the night with them. The doutor is a
S(^otchman, his wife a Yankee. The former had
' seen many adventures in C'alifomia and Oregon
I — had his face very much slashed in a contest
with the Shasty Indians near the southern border
of Oregon. The latter had come from the States,
a member of the Methodist Episcopal mission,
and had consented to share the bliss and ills of life
with the adventurous Gael ; and a happy little fam-
ily they were. Tlic next day Mrs. Bailey kindly
undertook to make me a blanket coat by the time
I should return, and the worthy doctor and myself
started for the mission. About a milo on our
waj', we called at a farm occupied by an Aineri.
can, who acted as blacksmith and gunsmith for
the settlement. He appeared to have a good set of
tools for his mechanical business, and plenty of
custom. He had also a considerable tract of
land under fence, a comfortable house and out-
buildings. A mile or two farther on, we came
u|)on the cabin of a Yankee tinker: an odd fel.
low, he ; glad to see a fellow countryman, ready
to serve him in any way, and to discuss tlie mat-
ter of a canal across the isthmus of Darien, the
northern lights, English monopolies, Symmes's
Hole, Tom Paine, anl wooden nutmegs. Far.
tlier on, we came to the catholic chapel, a low
wooden bi'ilding, 35 or 40 feet in length ; and the
parson >.", a comfortable log cabin. Beyond
these, scattCiOi'i over five miles of country, were
15 or 20 farm , occupied by .\merican8, and re.
tired servants f the Hudson Bay Company. —
Twelve cr tliii.-cn miles from the doctor's, wc
came in r;iglit of the mission premises. They
consisted of three log cabins, a blacksmith shop,
and outbuildings, on the east bank of the Willa-
mette, with large and well cultivated farms roiuid
about ; and a farm, on which were a large frame
house, hospitid, bam, i&c, half a mile to the east-
ward. Wc alighted at the last-named es'.ablish-
luent, anil were kindly received by Dr.Whi.c 1
lady. This gentleman is the physician of the
n..sRion, and is thoroughly devoted to the amclio.
ration of the physical condition of the natives. —
For this object, a large hospital was being erected
near his dwelling, lor the reception of patients.
I pasKcd the night with the doctor and his family,
and the following day visited|thc other mission
families. Every one appeared happy in his be.
nevolcnt work — Mr. Daniel Leslie, in preaching
and superintending general matters ; Mr. Cyrus
Slicpard in teaching letters to about thirty half,
breed and Indian children ; Mr. J. C. Whitccomb
in teaehing them to cultivate the earth ; and Mr.
Alunsou Beers in blacksniitliiiig for the inisBion

7\-avels in the Great Western Prairies,

and the Indiniis, and instructing a few yount; men
in his art. I spent four or live days with thrsp
people, and had a tino opportunity lo Icurn their
cliaracterH, tlie ohjcctR they liad in view, and (lie
means tliey tooit to aceomphHli thrin. Tliey he.
long lo that zealous class of Protei^tanlH called
Methodist Episcopalians. Tlieir religious feel.
ings are warm, an<l accompanied with a strong
faith and great activity. In energy and fervent
zeal they reminded mc of the I'lynioulli pil-
grims. So triK in heart, and so deeply interested
were they with the principles and emotions which
they are endeavoring to incidente upon those
around them. Their hospitality and fricrulBliip
were of the purest and most disnitercstcd che.rac.
ter. I shall have reason to remember long and
gratefully the kind and generous maimer in which
they supplied iny wants.

Their object in s<'ttliiig in Oregon, \ iinderst(K)d
lo be twofold : the one and principal, lo eivili/e
and christianize the Indians; the oilier and not
less important, the establishment of religions and
literary institutions for the benefit of white enii.
grants. Their plan of operation on th(^ Indians,
is to learn their various languages, forthe|)ur|ioses
of itinerant preaching, and of teaching the young
the English language. The scholars are also in.
structcd in agriculture, the regulations of a well,
managed household, reading, writinir, arillmietic
and geography. The principles and duties of the
Christian religion, form a very considerable part of
the systsm. They have succeeded very satisfae.
torily in the several parts of their undertaking. —
The preachers of the mission have traversed the
wilderness, and by their untiring devotion to their
work, wrought many changes in the moral con-
dition of thee proverbially deba"''d savages ;
while with their schools they have afTorded them
ample means for intellectual improvement. They
have a number of hundred acres of land under
the plough, and cultivated ehietly by the native
pupils, 'iliey have more than 100 head of horneil
cBttlc, 30 or 40 horses, and many swine. They
have granaries filled with wheat, oats, barley, and
peas, and cellars well stored with vegetables.

A site had already been selected on the oppo.
site side of the river for an academical building,
a court of justice had been organized by the jio-
pular voice; a military corps was about to be
formed for the protecjion ol settlers, and other
measures were in progress, at once showing that
the American, with his characteristic energy and
cntcrpris', and the philanthropist, with liis holy
aspirations for the betterment of the human con.
dition, had crossed the snowy barrier of the moun.
tain, to mingle with the iliisliing waves of the
Pacific seas Uic sweet music of a busy and vir.
tuous civilization.

During my tarry here, several American eiti.
zcns unconnected with the mission, called on me
to talk of their fatlierland, and inquire as to the
probability that its laws would be extended over
them. 1 he constantly re|)catcd inquiries were,
" AVhy are we left without protection in this part
of our country's <lomain ? Why are foreigners
|K3rmittcd to domineer over American citizens,
drive their traders from the country, and make
us as dependent on them for the clothes wc wear
as pre their own apprenticed slaves ?" I could
return no answer to theso questions, exculpatory

of this nutiiinal delinqueney, and, therefore, ad.
vist'd them to emlwdy their grievances in a peti.
tion, and forward it to fongrese. They had a
meeting for that purpoH<', and afterwards |)ut
into my hand, a (Htition signed by 67 " citi-
zens of the United States, and jiersons desirous
of l)eeomi">g such," the substance of which was
a description of the country — their unprotected
situation — and, in conclusion, a prayer that the
Federal Government wouhl extend over them tho
protection and institutions of the Republic. Five
or six of the Willamette settlers, for some rea-
son, had not an op|>ortunity to sign this paper.
The ('iitliolie priest refused to do it.

Tliise people have put fifty or sixty fme fanns
under cultivation in the Willamette valley,
amidst the most discouraging circumstances.
They havi' erected for themselves comfortable
dwellings and outbuilding'*, and have herds of
excellent cattle, which they have, from time to
time, driven up from California, at great expense
of property and even life. And the reader will
find it ditlieull to learn any sufticient reasons for
their being left by the Covemment without the in-
stitutions of civilized Foeiety. Their condition is
truly deplorable. They are liable to lie arrested
for debt or crime, and conveyed to the jails of
Canada ! Arrested on American territory by
British ofliccrs, tried by Hrilisb tribunals, impri-
soned in British iirisons, and hung or shot by Bri-
tisli I'xecutioners I They cannot trade witii the
Indians. For, in that case, the business of Bri-
tish subjects is interfered with, who, by way of
retaliation, will withhold the supplies of clothing,
household goods, &e., which the settlers have no
other means of obtaining. Nor is this all. The
civil condition of the territory being such as vir-
tually to prohibit the emigr.ition, to any extent,
of useful and desirable citizens, they have nothing
to anticipate from any considerable increase of their
numbers, nor any amelioration of their state to
look for, from the accession "f female society.
In tho dcs))eration incident to their lonely lot,
they take wives from the Indian tribes around
them. What will Uuhe ultimate consequence of
this unpardonable negligence on the part of the
tiovcrnmrnt upon the future destinies of Oregon
cannot be clearly predicted. But it is manifest
that it must be disastrous in the highest degree,
both as lo its claims to tl;c sovereignty of that
territory, e.iid the moral condition of its inha-
bitants.

A Mr. W. II. Wilson, su|)crintcndent of a
branch mission on Puget's sound, chanced to he
at the Willamette station, whose iwlite attentions
it aflords me pleasure to acknowledge. He ac-
companie<l me on a numlxir of excursions in the
valley, and to tho hights, for the purpose of
showing me the country. I was als<j in<lebted to
him for much information relative to llie ('owelitz
and its valley, and the region about the sound,
which will be found on a succeeding page.

My original intention had been lo pass the win-
ter in exploring Oregon, and to have returned to
tiie States the following summer, with the Amer.
ican Fur traders. But having learned from va.
rious creditabl(! sources, that little dependence
could lie placed upon meeting them at their usual
place of rendezvous on Green riv^r, and that tho
prospect of getting hack to the .States by tlial

in the RocTcy Mountains, the Oregon Territory, etc.

route would, counoqunntly, l)e exceedingly doubt-
ful, I felt e-on»traincd lo ubundou the uttcmpt.
My next wish was to have pouc by land to Cali.
fornin, and thence hoine throujrh the northern
States of Mexico. In order, however, to accom-
plish this with safety, a force of twenty-five men
was indispensable ; and as that nunibi>r could
not be raised, I was compelled to |rivc up all
hopes of returning by (hat route. The last and
only practicable means then of seeking home du-
ring the next twelve! months, was to go to the
Sandwich Islands, and ship tlienoe for New York
or California, as o|)|x)rtimity might oU'er. One of
the company's vessels was then lying at Vancovrr,
receiving a cargo of lumber for the Island mar-
ket, and I determined to take passage in her.
Under these circumstances, it behoved me to
hasten my return to the C'olumbia. Accordingly,
on the 20th I left the mission, virfitcd Dr. Bailey
and lady, and went to Mr. Johnson's to take a
canoe flown the river. On reaching this place, I
found Mr. Lee, who had been to the mission es-
tablishment on the Willamette for the fall sup-
plies of wheat, pork, lard, butter, &c., for his
station at the " IJallcs." lie had left th'! mission
two days before my departure, and giving his ca.
noc, laden with these valuables, in charge of his
Indians, proceeded down to (he highlands by
land. He had arrived at Mr. Johnson's, when a
message reached him to tlie effi-ct that his canoe
had been upset, and its entire contents d'scharged
into the stream. He immediately repaired to the
scene of this disaster, where I found him busied
in attempting to save some part of his cargo. All
the wheat, and a part of the other supplies, toge.
ther with his gun and other paraphernalia, were
lost. I made arrangements to go down with him
when he should be ready, and left him to call
upon a Captain Young, an American ex-tradcr,
who was settled near. This gentleman liad for-
merly explored California and Oregon in quest of
beaver — had been plundered by the Mexican au-
thorities of $18,000 or f 20,000 worth of fur;
and, wearied at last with his ill-luck, settled nine
or ten ycors ago on a small tributary of the Willa-
mette coming in from the west. Here he has
erected a saw and grist mill, and opened a farm.
He has been a number of times to California for
cattle, and now owns about one hundred head, a
fine band of horses, swine, &c. He related to
mo many inciilents of his hardships, among
which the most surprising was, that lor a num.
ber of years, the Hudson Bay C'ompany refused
to sell him a shred of clothing. And as there were
no other traders in the country, ho was compelled,
during their pleasure, to wear skins. A false re-
port that he had been gtiilty of some dishonorable
aet in CaUfomia was the alleged cause for this
treatment. But, pcrhops, a better reason woidd
be, that Mr. Young occasionally purchased lea-
ver skins in the American territory. I spent the
night of the 12th with the excellent old captain,
and in the afternoon of the 13th, in company
with my friend Mr. Lee, descended the Willa-
niettc as far as the Falls. Here wc passed the
night, more to the apparent satisfaction of three
pecks of (leas than of ourselves. These creature
comforts abound in Oregon. But it was not these
alone that made our lodging at the Falls u rosy
circumstance for memory's wastes. The melli-

fluent odor of salmon oflal regaling our nasal sen-
sibilities, and till! squalling of a copper-colored
baby, uttered in all the sweetesl intonations of
such instruments, falling with the livehest iiotcH
n\mn the ear, made me dream of war to the knife,
till the sun called us to our day's travel.

Five miles bt!low the Falls, Mr. I^ee and my-
self left the canoe, and struck across abfiut four-
teen miles to an Indian village on the bank of the
Columbia opiiosito Vancouver. It was a collec-
tion of nuid and straw huts, surrounded and
filled with so much filth of a certain description,
as to l)e smelt two hunilred yords. We hired one
of tlies* cits to take us across the river, and at
sunset of the 15th, were comfortably seated by
thestovi! in " Bachelor's HalP'of Fort Vancouver.

The rainy season had now thoroughly set in. —
Traveling any considerable distance in open l)oats,
or among the tangled underbrush on fixit, or on
horseback, was quite impracticable. 1 therefore
determined to avail myself of whatever other
irirans of information were in my reach. And as
the gentleman in charge of the various trading.
i |)08ts in the Territory, had arrived at Vancouver
to meet the express from London. I could not have
had, lor this objcst, a more fovorable opportunity.
The information obtained from these gciulemen,
and from other residents in the country, I have
relied on as correct, and combined it with my own
observations in the following general account of
Oregon ;

Oregon Territory is Iwunded on the north by
the parallel of ;)4 (leg. '10 min. north latitude ; on
the cast by the Rocky Mountains ; on the south
by the parallel of 42 deg. north latitude ; and on
the west by the Pacific Ocean.

Mountains of Oregon. DifTcrent sections of
the great chain of highlands which stretches from
the straits of Magellan to the Arctic sea, have re-
ceived difTerent names — as the Andes, the Cordil-
leras, the Anahuac, the Rocky and the Chipe-
wayan Mountains. The last mentioned appella-
tion has been applied to that jwrtion of it which
lies between the 58 deg. of north latitude and the
Arctic .Sea. The Hudson Bay Company, in com-
picting the survey of the Arctic coast, have ascer-
tained that these mountains preserve a strongly
defined outline entirely to the sea, and hang in
towering cliffs over it ; and by other surveys have
discovered that they gradually increase in bight
from the sea southward. The section to which
the term Rocky Momitains has lieen applied, ex-
tends from latitude 58 deg. to the Great Cap, or
southern pass, in latitude '12 deg. north. Their
altitude is greater than that of any other range on
the northern i)art of the continent. .Mr. Thomp-
son, the astronomer of the Hudson B.Co., rejiorts
that he found |ieaks Ijctwecn latitudes 53 and 5G
nortli, more than 20,000 feet above the level of
the sea. That jiortion lying east of Oregon, an 1
dividing it from tbctjreat Prairie Wilderness, v 1
be particularly noticed. Its southern point i m
the Wind River cluster, latitude 42 deg. north,
and about 700 mil.^s from the Pacific Ocean.
Its northern iioint is in latitude 54 deg. 40 min.,
about 70 miles north of Mount Browne, and about
400 miles from the same sea. Its general direc-
tion between these points is from N. N. W. to S.
S. E.

This range is generally covered with perjictua 1

Travels in the Great Wettem Prairies,

mowi ; and for this and atlier cauMti i* (r<^ncr\11y
impaisablc for man or bonBt. There arc, however,
Bcvcral gaps thrnii|(h which the Indiansand othero
crosB to the great Prairie Wildcme™. The nortliem-
most in bctwern ttio peaks Browne and Hooker.
Thin Ib used by tlic fur trade™ in their journeys from
the Cohimbia to Canada. Anotlier hes U^twccn
the head waters of tlie Flathead and the Marias
rivem. Another runti from Lewis and Clarko'g ri-
ver to t)ie southern lieud waters of the Missouri.
Anotlier lies up Henry's fork of the Suptin, in a
northeasterly course to tiic Dig.hom branch of the
Yellow-stone. And still another, and most im-
portant of all, is situated between Wind river cliis.
ter and lying's mountains.

There arc several spurs or lateral branches pro.
trudinfr from the main chain, which arc worthy of
notice. The northernmost of these puts off north
of Fraser's river, and embraces the sources of that
stream. It \h a broad collection of hights, 8pars<-ly
covered with pines. Sonic of its tojis arc covered
with Know nine months of the year. A spur from
I hese passes far down between Fraser's imd Colum-
bi» rivers. 'I'his is a line of rather low elevations,
thickly clothed with pines, cedar, &c. The high-
est portions of tliem lie near the Columbia. Ano.
ther spur puts out on the south of Mount Hooker,
and lies in the bend of the Columbia, above the
two lakes. These are lofty and bare of vegetation.
Another lies between the Flatliow and Flathead
rivers; another between the Flathead and ijpokan
rivers ; another U'tween the Coos-cooskic and
Wu^.icakoos rivers. These spurs, which lie be.
twccn the head waters of the Columbia and the
last mentioned river, have usually been cons-dered
in connection with a range running off S. W.
from the lower part of the Saptin, and called the
Blue Mountains. But there are two sufficient
reasons why this is error. The first is, that these
spurs are separate and distinct from each other,
and ore all manifestly merely spurs of the Rocky
Mountains, and closely connected with them. —
And the second is, that no one of them is united
in any one point with the Blue Mountains. They
cannot tlicrefore be considered " part of the Blue
Mountain chain, and should not be known by the
same name. The mountains wliicli lie between
the Wapicakoos river and the upjicr waters of the
Saptin, will be described by saying that they arc a
vast cluster of dark naked bights, descending from
the average elevation of 15,(100 feet — the altitude
of the great western ridge — to aliout 8,000 feet —
the elevation of the eastern wall of the valley of
the Saptin. The only qualifying fact that should
be attached to this description is, that there are a
few small hollows among these mountains, called
" holes ;" wliicli, in general appearance, resemble
Brown's hole, mentioned in a previous chapter. —
But unlike the latter, they arc too cold to allow of
cultivation.

The last spur that deserves notice in this place
is that which is called the " Snowy Mountains."
It has already been described in this work ; and
it can only be necessary here to repeat that it
branches off frcm the Wind River peak in lati-
tude 41 degrees north, and runs in un irregular
broken line to Cajie Mendocino, in Upper Call-
fomia.

The Blue Mountains are a range of hights
which commence at the Saptin, about 20 miles

above its junction with the Columbia, near the
•Jfith liegrec of north latitude, and run south-
westerly aliout 200 miles, and terminate in a bar.
ren, rolling plain. They are separated from the
Rocky Mountains by the valley of the Saptin,
and arc unconnected with any other range. —
Some of their lofticHt peaks are more than 10,000
feet above the level of the sen. Many beautiful
valleys, many hills covered with bunch grass,
and very many exteniivfl swells covered with
heavy yellow pine forests, are found among them.

The President's raago is in every reRjiect the
most interesting in Oregon. It is a part of a
chain of highlands, which commences at Mount
St. Elias, and gently diverging from the coast,
terminates in the aridf hills about the head of the
(iulf of California. It is a line of extinct volca-
noes, where the fires, the evidences of whose in.
tense power are seen over the whole surfuco of
Oregon, found their principal vents. It has 12
lofty peaks; two of which. Mount St. Elias and
Mount Fuirweathor, lie near latitude 55 degrees
north ; and ten of which lie south of latitude 49
degrees north. Five of these latter have received
names from British navigators and traders.

The other five have received from an Amcri.
can traveler, Mr. Kelley, the names of deceased
Presidents of the Republic. Mr. Kelly, I be-
lieve, was the first individual who suggested a
name for the whole range. For convenience
in description I have adopted it. And altliougli
it is a matter in which no one can find reasons
for being very much interested, yet if there is any
propriety in adopting Mr. Kclley's name for the
whole chain, there might sccni to be as much in
following his suggestion, that all the principal
peaks should bear the names of those distinguished
men, whom the suffrages of the people that own
Oregon have from time to time called to admin-
ister their national government. I have adopted
this course. Mount Tyler is situated near lati-
tude 49 degrees north, and about 20 miles from
the eastern shore of those waters between Vaii-
couvcr'e Island and the continent. It is clad
with perpetual snow. Mount Harrison is situ-
atcd a little more than a degree south of Mount
Tyler, and about 30 miles east by north of Pii-
get's Sound. It ia covered with perpetual snow.
Mount Van Buren stands on the Isthmus l>e-
tween Piiget's Sound and the Pacific. It is a
lofty, wintry jieak, seen in clear weather 80 miles
at sea. Mount Adams lies under the parallel of
45 degrees, aliout 25 miles north of the cascades
of the Columbia. This is one of the finest peaks
of the chain, clad with eternal snows, 5,000 feet
down its sides. Mount Washington lies a little
north of the 44tli degree north, and about twenty
miles south of the Cascades. It is a perfect cone,
and is said to rise 17,000 or 18,000 feet above tlic
level of the sea. Two-thirds of its hight is cov-
ered with perpetual snows. Mount Jefferson is
an immense peak under latitude 41 J degrees
north. It received its name from Lewis and
Clark. Mount Madison is the Mount McLaugh-
lin of the British fur.traders. Mount Monroe in
in latitude 43 degrees 20 minutes north, and
Mount John Quincy Adams is in 42 degrees lU
minutes; both covered with perpetual snow. —
Mount Jackson is in latitude 41 degrees 10 min.
utes. It is the largest and loftiest pinnacle of the

in the Rotky Mountains, the Oregon Territory, Sfc.

Preiidcnt's range. This chain of mount&ins runs
parallel with tho Rocky Mountains— between 300
and -100 miles from them. Itn average lilNtiinor
from the coart of the Paeifie, nouth of hititiulr II)
degrees, is about 100 milcH. The Kpaces bftw ron
the pcakN arc oceupied by elevated liightu.eovercd
with an enorinouH (rrowtb of the several HpeciiH
of pines and tirs, uiid the red cedar ; many of
which rise 300 feet without a limb ; nml are "five,
nix, seven, eight, and even nine fathonin in eir-
eumference at the ground.

On the south siue of the Colnmbia, at the ('as.
endcH, a range of low muuntains puts otF from the
President's range, and running down parallel to
the river, terminates in u point of land on whieh
Astoria was built. Its average bight is aUiiit
1500 feet aliove the river. Ni'ar the Cascadi's
they rise much higher : and in some instances
are beautifully castellated. They are generally
covered with dense pine and (ir forests. From
the north side of the Cascades, a similar range
runs down to the sea, and terminates in ('aix? Dis-
apiw>intment. This range also is covered with
forests. Another range runs on the brink of llic
i-onst, from Cajx; Mendocino in Upper California
to the Straits do Fuca, These are generally bare
of trees.; irierc maBws of dark 8tratifie<l rocks,
piled many hundred feet in light. They rise im-
mediately from the borders of the sea, and pre.
serve nearly a right line course, during their en.
tire length. The lower portion of their eastern
sides arc clothed with heavy pine; and spruce, lir
and cedar forests.

I have de8cril)ed on j)revioUK ))age8 the great
southern brnneh of the Cobnnliia, called .Saptin
by the natives who live on its banks, and the val.
ley of volcanic deserts tlirough which it riuis, as
well as the Cobunbia and its cavernous vale, from
itfl junction with the Saptin to Fort N'ancouver,
!)0 miles from lliu sea. I shall, therefore, in the
following notice of the rivers of Oregon, speak
only of those |)artK of this and other streams, and
their valleys alsjut them, which remain undes.
•ribed.

That jKjrtion of the ('olund)ia, which lies alx)ve
itsjmjction with the Sa|)thi, latitude l(i degrees i
B minutes north, is navigable for batteaux to the
lK)at encampment at the base of the Uoi-kj- .Moun-
tains, alx)Ut the 53d degree of north latitude, a
distune by the course of the stream, of alx)ut
.1110 miles. The ciurent is strong, and inlcrru))t-
ed by five considerable and several lesser rai)i(lH,
at which there are short |)ortages. The country '
on both sides of the river, from its junction with
Uie Saptin to the mouth of the S|)okan, is a dreary
waste. The soil is a light yellowish eom|s)sition
of sand and clay, generally destitute of vegelu.
tion. Li u few nooks, irrigated by mountain
streams, there are fovnid small patches of the
short grass of the plains uitcrsiicrsed with another
species which grows in tufts or bunches four or
five feet in hight. A few shrubs, us the small
willow, the sumac, and furze, upi)ear in distant and
solitary groups. There arc no trees ; generally
noUiing green ; a mere brown drifting desert ; as
fur as uic Oakunagan Uiver, 208 miles, a plain,
whose monotonous desolation is relieved only by
the noble liver running through it, and an occa.
sional cliiV of volcunic rQcksl)ur8tiiig tlirough its
arid Burfacei 1

'I The river Oakanagaii is a large, fine stream,
! originating in a lake of the same name situate in
1 the mountains, alwul 100 miles north of its mouth.
The soil in the neighborhood of this stream is gen-
erally worthless. Near its union, however, with
the Columbia, there arc a number of small jdains
tolerably well clothed with the wild grasses ; and
near its lake are found hills covered with small
timlx'r. On the point oflaiul between this stream
' and the Columbia, the Pacific Fur Company, in
^1811, established a trading-post. This, in 1814,
passed by purchase into the bands of the \. W.
Fur Co. of Canada, and in 1819, by the union of
[ that body with the Hudson Bay Company, passed
into the possession of the united company under
the name of the Hudson Bay Company. It is
still occupied by them under its old name of Fori
Oakauagan.

From this i>ost, latitude 18 deg. fi min., and
' longitude 117 deg. west, along the Columbia to
the Spokan, the country is as devoid of wood an
'. that l)c!ow. The banks of the river are bold and
rocky, the stream is contracted within narrow
limits, and the current strung ami ve.vei! wilh dan-
gerous e(blies.

The .*^])okun Kiver rises among the spurs of
' the Rocky Mountains east southeast of the mouth
' of the Oakauagan, and, after a course of alwut
[ 50 miles, I'ornisthe Pointed Heart Lake 95 miles
ill lenglb, and 10 or li! in width; and running
thence in a noiihwesterly direction about 120
; miles, emptiesi into the "Columbiti. /Miout fiO
j miles from its iismth, the I'licifie Fur Company
j erected a trading-post, which they called the
' " SjKikaii House." Tlicir successors arc under.
, stofid to have abandoned it. .Vliovc the Pointed
Heart Lake, the banks of this river are usually
high and Ixjld miiuiitains, and sparsely covered
with pines and cedars of a fine si/c. Around the
lake there are. some grass lands, many edible
rrxits, and wild fruits. On all the remaining
courst of Ibe sireani, there arc found at intervals,
|iroduelive s|)Ols c.qiable of yielding moderate
, crops of the grains and vegetables. 'I'here is con-
siderable pine and cedar timlier on tb(; neighbor-
ing hills ; and near the ( 'oluinbia arc large forests
growing on sandy plains. In a word, the Spokau
valley can be extensively used as a grazing dis-
trict; but ils agricultural capabilities arc limited.
Mr. Spauldiiig. an American missionar}', made a
journey across this valley to Fort Colville, in
.Alarch of 1837; in relation to which, he writes
to ^Ir. Ia'vI ChainlMTlain of the Sandwich
Islands, us follows : " The third day from
home we came to snow, and on the fourth
came to what I call quicksands — j ains mixed
with pine trees and rocks. Tin; l)ody of snow
ujion the plains, was intcrsjicrsed with baresiKits
under the standing pines. For these, our ]K)or
animals would plunge whenever they came near,
after wallowing in tlie snow and mud until the
last nerve seemed about exhausted, naturally ex.
[lecting a rcstinjj-placc for their struggling limbs;
but they were no less disappointed and discour.
aged, doubtless, than I was astonished to sec the
noble animals go down by the side of a rock or
pine tree, till their bodies struck the surface." —
The same gentleman, ui speaking of this valley
and the country generally, lying north of the Co-
lunibiu, and claiincd by tho United States and

Travels in the Oreat Western Praine$,

Great Britain, lays ; " It is |)ro1>a))ly not worth I
hair the nionry and time that will be spent in talk-
inpf about il."

The country from the Spokan to Kettle Falls, ij
ia broken intu hillRund niountuins thinly covered ;
with wood, and picturesi|UP in oiipearance;
among which there is supposed to Ix; no urable !
land. A little below Kettle Fulls, in latitude 4ti [
dcg. 37 mill, is u trading.post of the Hudson Bay
Company, called Fort Colville. Mr. Spaulding |'
thut describeii it : " Fort Colville is SdU miles >:
west of north from this, (his stution on the Clear i
AVater,) three duy's below Flatland River, one '
day above .'^poii-iii, UK) miles aliovc Oakanugan, '
and 3. Ill miles above Fort W.illawalla. It stands '
on a small pi lin of 2,1100 or 3,000 acres, said to be !i
the only tillable land on the Columbia, above i
Vancouver. There are one or two barns, a black. |
smith shop, a good flouring mill, several houses
for laborers, and nood buildings for the gentlemen '
in charge. .Mr. .McDonald raises this year (1837,)
about 3,500 bushels of different grains — such as j|
wheal, peas, barley, oats, corn, buckwheat, &c.,
and us many potatoes ; has 8J head of cattle, and ;
100 hoys. This post furnishes supplies of provis. i,
ion* fur a great many forts north, south, and r
west. The country on both sides of the stream |i
from Kettle Fulls to within four miles of the lower i
Lake, is covered with dense forests of pine, jj
•prucc, and small birch. The northwestern shore
is rather low, but the southern high and rocky. — i
In this distance, there are several tracts of rich !
bottom land, covered with u kind of creeping red ,
clover, and the while species coinmon to the
states. The lower lake of the Columbia, is about ;
35 miles in length and four or five in breadth. — i
Its shores are bold, and clad with a heavy growth i
of pine, spruce, &.p. From these waters the voy. h
ager obtains the first view of the snowy bights in ]
the main chain of the Rocky Mountaiiifl. \\

The Flalhcad River enters into the Columbia a |
short distance nl)ovp Fort Colville. It is as long 1
and discharges nearly as imieh water as that pari j
of Columbia aliove their junction. It rises near i;
the sources of the .Missouri and Saseatchawinc. — 1;
The ridges which separate them arc said to be |l
easy to pass. Il falls into the Columbia over a r
confused heap of iimiieiiBe rockw, just above the ..
place where the latter stream forms the Kettle ;,
Falls in its jiassage through a sjiur of the Rocky '
Mountains. About 100 miles from its mouth, i;
the Flathead River forms a lake 31! miles long and
seven or eight wide. It is called Lake Kullers.
pelm. A rich and Ix-auliful country spreads off
from it in all directions to the bases oi' lolty iiioun- ',
tains covered with iierpetual snows. Forty or
fifty miles aliove this lake, ia the " Flalliead !;
House" — a trading post of the Hudson Bay Com. ij
pany. ' j,

McGilhvray's or Flat Bow River, rises in the li
Rocky Mountains, and running a tortuous west. ;
eriy course alxjiit 300 miles, among the snowy :
hights and some exieiisive and Komcwhat ])roduc- ^
live vallies, enters the Columbia four miles IxOow
the Iiower Lake. Its banks are generally moun.
tainous, and in some places covered with pine for- ;
ests. On this stream, also, the indefatigable Brit. !:
ish fur traders have a jiost, " Fort Kootania"-— sit. ji
uated about 130 miles from its mouth. Between !'
the lower and upper lakes of the Columbia, are jj

" The Straits," a narrow, compreiwcd passage of
the river among jutting rocks. It is four or fivo
miles in length, and has a current swift, whirling,
and difficult to stem. The upper hike is of Ichs
dimensions than the lower ; but, if |)ouible, sur.
rounded by more broken and romantic scenery —
forests overhung by lofty tiers of wintry moun-
tains, from which rush a thousand torrents, fed
by the melting snows.

Two mile* above this lake, the Columbia runs
through n narrow, rocky channel. This place is
called the Ixiwer Dalles. The shores arc strewn
with immense quantities of fallen timber, among
which still stand heavy and impenetrable forests.
Thirty. five miles above is the Upper Dalles ; the
waters are crowded into u compreised channel,
among hanging and slippery rocks, foaming and
whirling fearfully. A few miles above this place,
is the head of navigation — " The Boat encamp,
ment," where the traders leave their batteaux, m
their overland journevi to Canada. The coun-
try from the ujiper lake to this place, is a collec-
tion of mountains, thickly covered with pine and
spruce and fir trees of very large size. Here
commences the " Rocky Mountam portage" to
the navigable waters on the other side. Its truck
runs leading up a wide and cheerless valley ; on
the north of which, tiers of mountains rise to a
great hight, thickly studded with immense pines
and cedars j while on the south, are seen towering
cliffs partially covered with mosses and stinted
pines, over which tumble, from the ices above, nu-
merous niid noisy cascades. Two daya' travel up
this desolate valley, brings the traveler to " La
Grande Cote," the jirincipal ridge. This they
climb in live hours. Around the base of this
ridge, the trees — pines, &.C., are of enormous size.
But in ascending, they decreas<" in size, till on the
summit they beeome little else than shrubs.

On the table land of this hight, are found two
lakes a few hundred yards apart ; the waters of
one of which, flows ilown the valley ju.st describ-
ed to the Columbia, and thence to the North I'a-
eifie ; while those of the other, forming the Rocky
Mountain River, run thence into the Athabasca,
and thence through Peace River, the (ireat Slave
Lake, and McKenzie's River into the Northern
Arctic t)cean. The scenery around these lakes
is highly interesting. In the north, rises .Mount
Browne 1U,000 feet, and in the south, Mount
Hooker, 15,700 feet above the level of the sea. —
In the west, descends a vast tract of secondary
mountains, bare and rocky, and noisy with
tumbling avalanches. In the vales arc groves of
the winter loving pine. In the east roll away
undulations of barren hights beyond the range of
sight. It seems to be the very citadel of desola-
tion ; where the god of the north wind, elaborates
his icy streams and frosts and blasts in every sea-
son oi' the year.

Frazcr's river rises between latitudes 55 degrees
and 5() degrees north, and after a course of about
150 miles nearly due south, falls into the straits dc
Fuca, under latitude 49 degrees north. It is so
much obstructed by rapids and falls, as to be of
little value for puriKjses of navigation. The face
of the country about its mouth, and for 50 miles
above, is mountainous and covered with dense
forests of white pine, eeilar and other ever-green
trees. The soil ia an indifferent vegetable depu

in the Rocky Mountains, the Oregon Territory, tfc.

mte G or 7 inrliM in drplli, rMlin.; on n utrnliirn
of dinil <ir rcMfHc ijrixvi'l. TIh^ wIi'>Ip rctniuTiinij
jiortlnn of the Viill^y in unld to hr cut xvilli low
monnliiins rimnin.j iiorlliwrstwiirdly iinii wmili-
cimlwiirclly ; tiinoiiir wliicli nrc iininrtiHi' triiolH of
marshcR unil lakrH, rormnl by (-old torri'ntii lioiii
the litglitH tluit rncirrlii (liciii. 'I'lu' Hdil not Uiuh
ocrii|>ir(l, In liKi poor lor BUi;roanful cidtlviition. —
Mr. .Miu'gillivruy. Ilin pu-rnon in cliurijp nl I'ort
Alcx-indiiii, in i&i"!, hhvn : " All tlie vo^clidili'ri
wo plimted, iiotwilliHtnnJinfr llio ntinost cure itiid
precaution, nearly fiiiltd ; nnd the UbI prop of po.
tiilom did not violil oui>-lunrtli of llic Kcrd plant-
fd." 'I'lie linilior of IIiIh tvi/mii coiiHiHts of all Ilic
variclicR of llic tir, tlio Hprure, pini', poplar, wil-
low, cedar, cyprnB, hirdi, and ulilcr.

The oliniile in very pccidiar. 'I'lir spring opcrm
aljoiit the middle of .\pril. l''roni iIiIh time tlic
Wi'allier Ib delii,'litfiil till tlie end C)f .May. In
.Itmo till' Hontli wind blown, and brin^fl ineiHBant
nins. Ill July and .Xu^iist lli" licit is almost in-
Hupp')rtable. In .Sept(!niber, tlie whole valley is en-
velopcd in fogs HO dense, that olijeels lll!l y irdj dis-
tant cannot be seen till 10 o'clock in the day. In
October the It'aves I'lianj;!' their color and hejrm
to fall. In November, the lakes, and portioiis of
the rivers are frozen. The winter months briiiij
snow. It is seldom severely cold. The mercury
in Fuhrenlicil's scale sinks a few days only, as low
ti» 10 or I'J degrees lielow zero.

Til, it part of Oregon bounded on the north by
Shmillamen River, and on the east by Oakanairan
nnd ('ohinibia Uivers, south by the Columliia,
and west by the President's Uaiiire, is a broken
plain, partially covered with the Klmrt and biinrli
({rassfs ; but so destitute of water, that a small
portion only of it. can ever he depastur<'d. Tlu^
e 'em and middle |)orlioiis of it, are destitute of
timber ; — a mere siinhurnt waste. The northern
part has a few wooded hills and slnams, and prai.
rie valleys. Anion;; the lower hills of the I'resi-
dent's Ranije, too, there are considerable pine and
I'lr forests; and rather extensive prairies, watered
by small mountain streams. liut nine.tcntlis of
the whole surface of this part of Orejjon, is a
worlhleBS desert.

The trad Iniunded north by the Cidumbia, east
by the Ulue .Mountains, south by the iJd parallel
of north latitude, and west by tlie I'resident's
Uan;jp, is a plain of vast rolls or swells, of a lif;ht.
yellowish, sandy clay, partially covered with the
short and bunch (jrasses. mixed with tlii' prickly
pear and wild wormwood. Hut water is so very
scarce, that it can never be frenerally fed ; unless
indeed, as some travelers in their praises of this
region seem to Buppo3<', the animals that usually
live by eating and drinking, slionld be able to (lis,
pense with the latter, in a idimate where nine
months in the year, not a particle of riiii or dew
falls, to moisten a soil as dry and loose as a heap
of ashes. l)i\ the banks of the liiilion, John
Days, Uinatalla and Wallawalla Kivers — wliieh
have an average length of 3i) miles — there are.
without doubt, extensive tracts of grass in the
neighlxirhood of water. Hut it is also true that
not more than a filth part of the surface within
25 miles of these streams, bears grass or any
other vegetation. The |)ortion also which borders
the Columbia, produces some grass. Unt of a
Btrip (i mileii in width, and extending from the

Dallps to IliP month of the .'<nptiu, not an
Imndredlh part bears the grasses ; and thn aideH
sides of the eliasm of the rivrr are so prpripitoUB,
that not a fiftieth part of Ibis can be fed by nni-
mals which drink at that stream. In proceeding
Kouthward on the head waters of thn small
streams. John Days and I'matalla, the face of the
plain rises grailiially into vast irregular swelli,
(lestiliile of timber and water. On the lilua
.MoiilittiiiB are a few pine and spruce tr(H.'s of an
inferior growth. On tlif right, tower the whitu
peaks ami thickly wnided hills of the I'resiilent'ii
Uail^e. Thp space southeast of the llhio .Moim-
t tins is a barren thirNty waste, of light, sandy and
idayey soil — strongly uupregnated with nitre. A
lew small Btreims run among tin- sand hills. Uul
they arc W) strongly impregnated with various
kinds of salts. IIS to be unfit for use. These brooks
empty into the lakes, the waters of whi(di are Bait-
er than the ocean. NcMr latitude 13 degrees north,
the Klamet Uiver risCB and runs westerly through
the I'residcnt'n Kiiiige. On these waters arc a
few productive valleys. Hut westwardly from
them to the .Sajitin the country Ib dry and worth-
less.

The part of ( (regon lying between the ,Slrait«
de l''uea on the north, the I'residenls' Ranjfo
on till! east, the Columbia on the south, and the
ocean on the west, is thickly covered with pines,
cedars and lirs of extraordinary size ; and iH'neath
these, with a growth of hriisli and brambles that
defy the most vigorous foot to penetrate them.
There are indeed along the' hnnkt of the Cnluin.
bia, strips of prairie v,>rying from a few rods to 3
miles in width, and oftin several miles in length ;
and even .imicbt the forests are found a few open
s|)accs. The banks of the Cowclitz, too, are de-
imded' of timber for -1(1 miles; and around the
■Straits de Fucaand I'ugets Sound, are large tracts
of open country. Hut the wliole tract lying with-
in tlie lioimdaries just defined, is of little valuii
exee|)t for its timber. The forests are so heavy
and so matted with branibles, as to require the
; arm of a Hercules to clear a farm of 100 acres in
an ordinary lifetime; and the mass of timber in
so great tint an atteinjit to subdue it by girdling
would result in the production of another forest
before the ground could be disencumbered of
what was thus killed. The small prairies among
the woods are covered with wild grasses, and arc
useful iiB pastures. The soil of these, like that
of the timbered portions, is a vegetable mould, 8
or 10 inches in thickness, resting on a stratum ot
hard blue clay and gravel. The valley of the
Cowclitz is i>oof — the soil, thin, loose, and much
washed, can he used as pasture gromid.s for 30
I miles up the stream. At aliout that distance
some tracts of fine land occur. The prairies on
the banks of the Columbia would 1)3 valuable
land for agricultural purposes, if they were not
""iierally overflown by the freshets in June — tiie
, . ■ > !i of all the year when crops are most injur,
ed by such an occurrence. -Vnd it is impusBible
to dyke out the w.itcr ; for the soil rests U|xin an
iinnieiise bed of gravel and quicksand, throujrh
I which it will Icaeh in spite of siieh obstructions.
' The tract of the territory lying between the
. ('olumbia on the north, the I'residentB' range on
I the east, the parallel of -12 deg. of north latitude
|l on the uouth, and the ocean on the west, is the

100

Travels in the Qrtal Weilern Prmrio,

iiUMt beautiful and vuluubln portion nt' llioOr(!|;on
Territory- A k'""' idea "I III" form of jtN nurfuce
may Im' dirivctl from a vii'W of \\n moiinliiiiiH
nn(l riv(TH hh laid dn'.vii on tlii' map. On llir
Noiilli tower tlir liiglilH of the Snowy MoimtainH;
on till- wi'Ht the naked pealtH of the eoant ran(fr;
on tlie north tiie green peiikn of the river ranms
and on tlio east the lofty Nliiiiini; coiich of the
PreHidentii' range, — around »•!• iw^ frozen hum*
ehiKler ii vaHt oolleetion of minor moniitainH,
elad with the miirhtiest pini^ an<l ecMJar forcHlH on
the faee of the ciirth I 'I'hr prineipal riveni are
the Klamct and the I'mpqna in the Hoiith wcnI,
and tlie Williimette in the north.

Tlie I'lnpqiia enleiH Ihew a in lalitn(«' 13 di'|r.
.10 min. .\. Il iN Ihree.foiirthK of a mile in width
at itH month ; water L>J fathomn on its liir ; the
tide !^ts np .'III milrn from the Kea ; itn ImidcH at
rteep and covered with pinew and eodarc, <.Ve.
Aliove tide- water thi! Htrram is broken by rapids
and fallM. Il ban a westerly oourse of about HID
miles. The face of X\\r eonnlry aliout it in wnie.
what broken ; in wiine pariK covered with heavy
|)ine anil rtdar limber, in ullic rtt with (jrnsd only ;
Haid to l«! a fine v^'.ley for cidlivatinn and poHliir.
age. The piiiewon thin river ifro'v to an enorntfais
size : U.'iO feet in hi|r|il — and Ironi LI lo more than
.SO feet in c'reiimferenoe ; !lie c.jncH or need vch.
Htls uro in the fonn of an e(r(j, and often tinuH
more than a foot in length ; the Bcedn are as large
as the castor bean. Farther mntli in another stream,
wliieh joins the ocean !J3 milen from the outlet of
the l'm|H|ua. .\t its moulh are niimy biiyf ; and
the surrounding conn try is Iihm broken iliaii the
valley of the I'Mipqua.

Farther south Ktill, is another Hlream called the
Klamct. It rises, as is said, in tla^ plain cast of
Mount ^(adison, and rnmiing a westerly eonrHe
of 150 miles, enters the ocean Id or .'id miles
south of the I'mpqua. The |iinc and cedar disa|i.
l)ear upon this stream; and instead of llietn are
foimd a myrtaceous tree of small size, whieli
when shaken by the least bi-eeze. ditfiises a deli,
eious fragrance through the groves. 'I'lie face of
the volley is g' itly undulating, and in every re-
spect desirable for eullivation and grazing.

The Willumetto rises in the I'residcnis" range. •
near the sources of the Klamet. Its general
course is mirth northwest. Its length is some.
thing more than :2dd miles. It falls into the Co. '
lumbia by two mouths ; the one 8.'> and the ollu r
70 miles from the 8<'ii. The arable |K)rlion of the ;
vedleyof this river is alxiut l.")0 miles long, by (il)
in width. It is bounded on tin" west liy low \
wooded hills of the coast range; on the south by
tlic highlands around the ti])per Wiiters of the
Umpqua ; on the east by the I'rcsidents' range ; :
and on the north by the mountains that run ak)ng
the Bouthern bank of the Columbia. Its general
appearance as seen from the hights, is that of a
rolling, open plain, intersected in every directien I
by ridges of low nio\mtains, and long lines of
evergreen timlx>r; and dotted here and there with
a grove of white oaks. The soil is a rich vcgeta- :
blc mould, two or three feet deep, resting on a j
stratum of coarse gravel or clay. The prairie
portions of it are capable of prodncitig, «'ith good
cultivation, from 20 to 30 bushels of wheal to the
acre; and other small grains in pro|>ortion. Corti
cannot be raised witiiout irrigation. The vcgeta- i;

blcN common to inch latitudcn yield abundantly,
and of the IxRl quality. The uplands have nn
inferior soil, and are covered with such nn rnor.
iitiins growth of |iiiiih, cedars and lirs, that the
expense of clearing Would be greatly lieytaid
their value. Those tracts of ihe second iMittom
lands, wbirh are covered willi liiiilsM', might lu-
worth subduing, but lorn specieHof fern growing
nn theiit, wliich is no dillienlt to kill as to rctider
thcnt iiearlv worthless for agricultural pur|ioscM.

The elimale of ihc country iM'tween the I'resi.
denls' range and the sea, is very tcni|>ernte. From
till' middle of \\m\ lo the niidiUe of October, the
Westerly wiiiils prevail, and Ihe weather is warm
iiiid dry. .Searei ly a drop of rain falls. Uiiring
Ihc reinainiler ol the year the southerly winds
blow continually, atid bring rains; snmeiimes in
bowers, and at others in terrible storms, that
continue lo pour down incessantly for n ntnnber
of weeks.

There is scarcely any freezing weather in this
section ol Oregon. Twice williin the las! fnrlv
years the Columbia has been frozcit over; bnl lltet
was eliielly caused by the iieeiimnlation of ice
from Ihe upper country. The grasses grow iliir-
ing the winter months, and wither to hay in the
stiniiner lime.

The mineral resources <d' Oregon have not
been inviHtigated. tireat ipiantities of biltiininons
coal have however been discovered on I'ligel's
Sound, and on the Willuntette. Salt springs also
abound; and other fountains highly impregnated
with snlpliiir, soda, iron. & c. are numerous.

There are tiiaiiy wild fruits in the territory that
woiilil be verv ilesirable for cultivation in Ihe gar.
dens III Ihe Slates. Among these are a very large
and delicious strawberry — the servier berry — a
kind of whortli'lterry — and a cranberry growing
on bushes I or .1 feet in bight. The crab apple,
choke cherrv, and thontls'rry arc common. Of
the wilil animals, ibcre are the white tailed, black
tailed, jiiniping and moose deer; the elk; red
and black and grey wolf; the black, brown, and
grisley bear; tlie moitnlain sheep; black, white,
red and tui.ved foxes ; beaver, lynxes, martin, ol.
lers, minks, iiitisUrals, wolvertnes, marmot, er-
mines. wiHidrals, and Hie small ciirleil tailed short
eared dog, coniiiioii among Ihc Chip|H;ways.

t)f the feathered tribe, there an^ Ihe goose, lite
brant, several kinds of cranes, the swan, many
varieties of the duck, hawks of several kinds,
plovers, white eagles, ravens, crows, vultures,
thrush, gills, wood|)eckers, pheasants, jielicuns,
partridges, grouse, snowbirds, &c.

In Ihe rivers and lakes arc a very superior quality
of salmon, brook and salmon trout, sardines, stur-
geon, rock cod, the hair seal, &e. ; and in the bays
and inlets along the coast, are the sea otter and an
inferior kind of oyster.

The trade of (Irejron is limited entirely to the
operations of the Kritish Hudson Bay Coitipany.
\ eoni^ise aecounl of this association is therefore
deemed opposite in this place.

A charter was granted by Charles S?d in K70,
to certain Hritisli subieets associated under the
name of " The Hudson's Bay ( 'ompany," in virtue
of which they were allowed thecvclnstve privilege
of establishing trading factorie., i he Hudson's
Bay and its tributary rivers. ' n". 'ler Ihe grant,
the comjiany took jwincssioii ot liic '.crritory, and

in ihe Hoeloj Monnlmnt, the Oref(on Trrrilor;/, fti;

]01

•nioyci) iu Irailc williniit ii|i|x)Hitioii till I'iH' ;
wlicn wnii oruBiir/.i(l 11 |H)\vtrfiil riviil uiirlor llic
title ol' llic " Niirtli AiiutIi'iiii Kiir ( '(iiii|i:iiiy iit
Cnniiilii." 'riiin coinimiiy wns cliirfly ii)Iii|ioh<'(I
of t'liiiuiliiiii-lHini Niili|i'<'tH — iiicii whoHc nittivc
i'iirr|{y iiii'l tli»r(iu|r|i iii'<|imiritiiii('i' willi the lii-
(liiin clmractcr, |H<('uliiirly (|Uiilllir<l tluiii I'nr (lie
iliiiiircrH iiMil lmr<lHlilpH ol a I'nr liiiiKr'H lil'c in llii'
frozen ri(;ioiiH ol' llriliHli Aiiierieu. Actcoidiinjly
we WHiii (iiid tlie NorlliweMlcrM oiilreiicliiiijj in en-
terpri/.e iind i inniereiiil iiniKirliinee tlieir if km hc.
tivt' neinlilK(r:.i.l Ilndnon'M ll.iy ; anil llujeiilDUHitH
niilnriilly uriHins; iMlwrcn |iarti(»H<i nilu iteri, Icnil.
ill){ to the inoHt baibiiroiiH l)attl(H, lui'l llienarkiiifi
unil liiimini; each ollur'M jotsIh. 'V\i\H nlale of
tliinfTH in IH^I, urrrKteil tlic attention nl' {'arlitu
nirnt. anil an net waHpaHHiil ennHoliilatiiii; llie two
coiii|ianii-H into one, uiuler the title of " 'I'lie lliiil-
koh'h Itay Company."

'I'liiM aBHoeiiition in now, nniler the operation of
their rliarler, in Hole poMHtKhion of all lliat Iraet c'
roiintry Uinnded north by the northern Arrtie
Oeoan ; eaxthythe Duvin' StraltK and the Atlantie
Dreiin; n'lntli and NontliwrMlwardly liy the north.
cm bonndary of the Canudax and a line liiawn
thron)rh ijm centre of Lake ,Sn|)erior ; thence
northweiitwardly to the Lake of the Wood ;
thence west on the 'lOth piirallel of north latitude
to thn Kocky MountuiiiH, and alonj; those nionn-
tuinH to th(! 51lh |iurallel ; thence wiMtwarilly
on that line to a |)oint 9 iimrinu loa(rueH from tiie
racifiR Ocean ; and on the west by a line eoin-
incncing at the laMt inentionril point, and running
northwardly parallel to the I'acifie eoaiit till it in-
tcrncct8 the HIhI parallel of lofii;ilnilc west from
Grecnwieh, Lng., and thenec due north to the
Arctic Sea.

They have also leased for :.'() yenrK, conunencinjf
in Marcli, 1810, all of Ru.-<Hiaii Atneriea except the
pout of .Sitka ; me li imc renewable at the pleasure
of thelLlt. C. They are also in possession of
Orc({on under treaty stipulation between Britain
and the United States. Tlius tliis [wwerfid com-
pany occupy and control luore than one-ninlh of
the soil of tlic jtIoIx'. Its stockholders are Itritish
capitalists, resident in Ureal Britain. From these
are elected a lx}ard of nianapers, who hold their
nieetinns and transact their business at "Tlie
Hudson's Bay House" in I/milon. This hoard buy
i;iK)d(i and ship them to their territory, si II liie furs
for which they are exchunfjed, and do all other busi.
nesM connected with the company's transactions,
cxcejit the execution of their own orders, the
actual businessofcolleetinjf furs, in their territory.
This duty ia entrusted lo a class of men who are
called partners, but who in fad receive certain
portions of the ammal net profits of the com-
pany's business, as a compensation for their ser-
vices.

These gentlemen are divided by their employers
into dirt'erent grades. The first of these is the
Govcrnor.tjcneral of all the company's po.sts in
North America. He resiiles at York Factory, on
the westHhorcof Hudson's Hay. The second class
arc chief factors; Ihe third, chief traders; the
fourth, traders. lielow these is another class, called
clerks. Tliesc are usually younger niembors »{
re§peetable Scottish families. They are not ili.
reetly intcrcBted in the com|>any's profits, but re.
eeive an annual salary of JtlOO, fiMid, ."sui table |

clothing, and a iKiily servant, during an npprrn-
liccHliip of seven years. At the expiration of thi*
term tJiey are eligilile to the traderships, factor-
•hips, iVe. that may bi: vacateii by death or
retirement from (he service. While waiting for
ailvanceineiit they are allowed troiii X'HI) to i.'l:2l)
per annum. The Herva<itscm|)loyed ulmul their
jMists iinil in their jonnieyingH are half-breed Iro-
ipHiis and Canadian rrenchmen. 'I'licw! they
enlist lor live years, at wages varying from ijfM
to l{j|H|) per annum.

An aimual Council comimsed of the tiovernor.
(ieneral, chief factors and chief traders, is held
at York Factory. Ilefore this ls)dy arc brought
til" r I ris of the trade of each district ; pro|)osi.
tioiis I I, I'cw I iiterprisi's, iiiiil modilieations of old
o!ics; '. :tll these iitid other matters deemed iin-
porluut, Is'ing acted u|K)n, the pnieeedings liad
thcj 'U .inil the reports from the several distriits
i.r t'orwaiiled to the U^>.iid of Directors in Imn-
I il'iM, and suliiecled to its tiiiid order.

Thisilriwd company never allow their terri-
tory to beovirtrappeil. l\ the annual reliuii froi.i
any .veil ,ia|ipeil liistrict be less in any year than
foiiiieil\, they order a less nunilKT still to l«;
taken, until tlie beaver and other fur bearing ani-
niiils have time Ut increase. 'I'lic income of the
company is thus rendered iinirorm, and their bum-
liess peijietiuil.

The nature and annual value "f tlic Hudson
Hay Company's biibini'ss in the territory wllich
they occujiy, may be learned from the mllowijig
table, e.vlraeteil Iroin Hliss' work on the trade and
ndiistry of JJritish .\iiicrica, in IflU :

Skins.

Nil.

•HCll X,.

J H

JL. • d.

Heaver...

.l:>fi.!MI

" 1

.". (1

L")8,(i80 II

Muskral . .

..:)7.''),7:n

" II

II <1

;),3ys 5 ti

Fivnx

. .'■^►<,(ll(l

•• II

H II

UVMH

Wolf

. :>,\Mi

" (1

'-iMlH Hi

Hear

. .'LHiVi

" 1

II II

.'J.H.IO

Fox

.■^,;('m

" (1

1(1

i,:m 10

Mink

. !t,',>!l«

" (1

'J:."J Id

liaccoon..

. ;»-'.->

" (1

1 H

'-M 7 li

Tails

. '->,•,>»! 1

" l>

1 II

ill 10

Wolverine

. 1,711

'• n

;i (I

•JGl 13

Deer

t!l.->

'• (1

:i (I

KG 15

Weasel...

00 lU

x:2();t,:iii) u

Some ide.i may be lnriiied of the net profit of
this business, from the fails that Ihi' shares of tlic
company's slock, which originally cost i'lOO, arc
ut 1110 per cent premium, and that Ihe dividends
range from ten per cent u|iward, and this too
while lliey are creating out of the net proceeds an
iiiimense reserve fund, to be exi^nd'-'d in keeping
other pers<inB out of tlie trade.

In 180,> the .Missouri Fur Company estab-
lislird a trading.posi on the heud-waters of the
Saptiii. In IfOG the Noitli-West Fur Company
of Canada established one on Fru/.er's Lake, near
the iiortliern line of Oregon. In March, 1811,
the .Vmeriean Pacific^ Fur Company built Fort
Astoria, near the moulli of the Columbia. In
July of the siiiiic year, a partner of the North-
West Fur Company of Canada descended the
great uortliern branch of the Columbia lo Astoria.
'I'his was the first appearance of the British fur
trader:! in the valleys drained by this river.

On th, llltli of October, !8i;i — while war was
raging iHtween England and the States — the

102

Jh-aveh in the Great Western Prairies,

Pacific Fur Company sold all itB Minhlislmicnts ]
in Oregon to fho Norlli.AVcBt Fur Company of
Canada. On the 1 st of Deopniber followinir, the
British sloop-of-war Raccoon, Captain Black com-
mantlins^, ontsrcd the Coluinhia — took formal pos.
session of Astoria — and changed its nnnic to Fort
George. On the 1 st of Ortol)f r, 1 H 1 8, Fort ( icorne
was Burrendercd by the Hritisli (Jovemmcnl to the
Ctovemnient of the States, according to a stipu-
lation in the Treaty of Cilicnt. Hy the name
Treaty, British suhjects were granted the same
rights of trude and scltlcnient in Oregon as lie-
longed to the citizens of the IJepnblic, for the
term of JO yearn; luider the condition — that as
both nations claimed Oregon — tlic occupancy thus
authorized should in no form alli'ct tlieipieslion as
to the title to the country. This stipulation was,
by treaty of london, August 6, 1827, indefinitely
extended ; under the condition that it should cease
to be in force 12 months from the date of a notice
of cither of the contracting powers to the other,
to annul and abrogate it ; jirovidcd such notice
ehould not be given till after the SOth of October,
1S28. And this is the maimer in which the Brit-
ish Hudson's Bay Company, after its union with
the North- West Fur Company of Canada, came j
into Oregon. " '

They have now in the territory the following
trading.posts : — Fort Vancouver, on the north
bank of the Columbia, 91) miles from the ocean,
in latitude 454°, longitude 122° ,31)' ; Fort George,
(formerly Astoria.) near the month of the same
river ; Fort Nasqually, on Puget's Sound, latitude
47° ; Fort Langly, at the cutlet of Frascr's River,
latitude 4D° 2j' ; F"ort McLaughlin, on the Mill-
bank Soimd, latitude .')2° ; Fort Simpson, on
Dundas Island, latitude ,")ii°. Frazcr's Fort,
Fort James, McLcod's Fort. Fort Chilcolin, and
Fort Alexandria, on Frazer's river and its branch.
M between the o\A and .51i parallels of latitude ;
Thompson's Fort, on Thomp?on's river, a tribu-
rr's river, putting into it in latitude
1 minutes; Kootania Fort, on Flat-
Flathead Fort, on Fluthead river ;
and Boisais, on the .Saptin ; Forti
on the Columbia, above

50' and od
bow river ;
Forts Hall
Colvillo and Oakana?ai

its junction with the Sajitm ; Fort Xez I'erces or
Wallawalla, a few miles below the junction ; Fort
JIcKav, at the mouth of the Umpipia river, lati-
tude 43° 30', and longitude 12 1*^ west.

They also have two migratory trading and
trapping establishments of .'iO or GO men each. —
The one traps and trades in Upper California ; the
other in the country lying west, smith, and east
of Fort Hall. They al.w have a steam-vessel,
heavily armed, which runs along the coast, and
among its bays and inlets, for the twofold pur-
pose of trading with the natives in places where
they hsfve no jwst, and of outbidding and oulsell.
ing any .\mcriean vessel that attempts to trade
in those seas. They likewise have five sailing
vessels, mcasurini; from 100 to 500 tons burthen,
and armed with camion, nmskets, cutlasses, <Si.o.
These are employed a part of the year in 'various
kinds of trade aliout the coast and the inlands of
the North Pacific, and the remainder of the time
in bringing goods from london, and hearing back
the furs for which they arc exchanged.
: One of these ships arrives at Fort Vancouver
ill the spring of each year, laden wit'i coarse wool-

ens, cloths, baizes, and blankets ; hardware an<!
cutlery; cotton cloths, calicoes, and cotton hand-
kerchiefs ; ten, sugar, cofl'ee, and cocoa ; rice, to-
bacco, soap, bends, gun?, powder, lend, rum, wine,
brandy, gin, and playing cards ; boots, shoes, and
ready-made clothing, iVe. ; also, every descrip-
tion of sea stores, canvas, cordage, paints, oils,
chains and chain cables, anchors, &c. Having
discharged these " supplies," it takes a cargo of
lumber to the .Simdwicli Islands, or of Hour and
goods to the Russians at .Sitka or Kaniskatka ;
returns in .\ugust ; receives the furs collected at
Fort Vanc«uvcr, and sails again for England.

The value of jiellrics annually collected in Ore-
gon, bv the Hudson Hay Company, is about
,«iI40.0"l)0 in the I/mdon or New-York market.
The prime cost of the goods exchanged for thcni
is about i§20,l)fl0. To this must be added the
per centagc f)f the ollicers as governors, factors,
&c. the wages and food of almut 400 men, the
expense of shipping to bring supplies of goods
and take bac^k tiic returns of furs, and two years'
interest on the inv<'Bltncnts. The Company made
arrangements in 183!) with the Russians at Sitka
and at oilier jxirts, about the sea of Kamskatka,
to Buppl)- them with flour and goods at fixed prices.
And as they are opening largo farms on the Cow-
elitz, the Unipqua, and in other parts of the Terri-
tory, for the production of wheat for that market ;
anil as they can aftbrd to sell goods purchased in
England under a contract of .50 years' standing,
20 or 30 per cent, cheaper than American mer-
chants can, there seems a certainty that the Hud.
son's Bay Company will engross the entire trade
of the ^''orth Pacific, as it has that of Oregon.

.Soon after the union of the Northwest and
Hudson's Hay Companies, the British Parliament
passed an act extending the jurisdiction of the
Canadian courts over the territories occupied by
these fur traders, whether it were " owned" or
"claimed by (^rcat Britain." Fnder this act,
certain gentlemen of the fur company were ap-
pointed justices of 'he peace, and empowered to
entertain prosecutions for minor ofFences, arrest
and send to Canada criminals of a higher order,
and try, render judgement, and grant execution
in civil suits where the amount in issue should
not exceed je200 ; and in ease of non-payment,
to imprison the debtor at their own forts, rr in the
jails of Canada.

.-Vnd thus is shown that the trade, and the civil
and criminal jurisdiction in Oregon are held by
British subjecls ; that .American citizins arc de-
prived of their own conmiercial rights ; that they
arc liable to be arreslcd on their own territory by
officers of British courts, tried in the American
domain by British judges, and imprisoned or hung
according to the laws of the P/iitish empire, for
acts done within the territorial limits of the Re-
public.

It has frcfiucntly been asked if Oregon will
hereafter nssunie great importance as a thorough-
fare between the States and China ? The an-
I Bwer is us follows :

< The Straits de Fuca and unns of the sea

, to the eastward of il furnish the only good

harbors on the Oregon coast > Those in

\ Puget's Hound oll'cr ivery requisite facility for

the most extensive commerce. Ships beat out

and into the straits with any winds of the coast,

in the Rocky Mountains, the Oregon Territory, t^r.

103

and find in (lummrr and winter fine anchorage at
short intervals on both shores ; and among tlic is-
lands of the Sound, a safe harbor from the prc-
vailinijt storms. From Pugct's Sound eastward,
there is a jjoBslble route for a rail road to the nav-
igable waters of the Missouri ; flanked with an
abundanrc of fuel and other necessary materials.
Its lengtli would be about 600 miles. Whetlicrit
would answer the desired end, would depend very
much upon the navigation of the Missouri. As
however the principal weight and bulk of cargoes
in the Chinese trade would belong to the home,
ward voyage, and us the lumber us(-d in construct-
iiig proper boats on the upper Missouri would sell
in Saint I/)uis for something like the cost of con-
struction, it may |M'rhaps be presumed that the
trade between China and the States could be con-
ducted through such an overland communication.
The first day of the winter months came with
bright skies over the l)cautiful valleys of Oregon.
Mounts Washington and Jeflcrson reared their
vast pyramids of ice and snow among the fresh
green forests of the lower hills, and overl(x)ked
the Willamette, the lower Columbia and the dis-
tan» sea. The herds of California cattle were
lo\»..ig on the meadows, and the flocks of sheep
from the Downs of England were scampermg and
bleating around their shepherds on the plain ; and
the plane of llie carpenter, the adze of the cooper,
the hammer of the tinman, and the anvil of the
blacksmith within the pickets, were all awake
when I arose to breakfast for the last time at Fort
Vancouver. The beauty of the day and the busy
hum of life around me, accorded well with the
feelings of joy with which I made preparations to
return to my family and home. And yet when I
met at the table Dr. McLaughlin, Mr. Douglass,
and othere with whom I had passed many pleas-
ant hours, and from whom I had received many
kindnesses, a sense of sorrow mingled strongly
with the delight which the occasion naturally m-
spired. I was to leave Vancouver for the Sand-
wich Islands, and see Ihcm no more. And I
confess that it has seldom been my lot to have
felt BO deeply pained al parting witli those whom
I had known so little time. But it became me to
hasten my departure ; for the ship had dropped
down to tlie mouth of the river, and awaited the
arrival of Mr. Simpson, one of the company's
clerks, Jlr 'ohnson, an American froiTi St. Louis,
and myself. And while we were making the low-
er mouth of the Willamette, the reader will per.
haps be amused with the sketch of life at Fort
Vancouver.

Fort Vancouver is, as hai been already in-
timated, the depot at which are brought the furs
collected west of the Rocky Mountains, and from
which they are shipped to England ; and also the
place at which all the goods for the trade are land-
ed ; and from which they are distributed to the
Tarious posts of that tenitory by vessfls, battcaux
or pack animals, as the various routes permit. —
It was established by Governor Simjjson in
1824, as the great centre of all commerriul opera-
tions in Oregon ; is situated in a beautiful plain
on the north bank of the Columbia, 90 miles fiom
the sea, in latitude 45^° north, and in longitude
122° wtst; standi 400 yards from the waterside.
The noble river before it is 1070 yards wide, and
from 5 to 7 fathonis in depth ; tha whole surj

rounding country is covered with forests of pine,
cedar and fir. Sic, interspersed here and there
with small open spots ; all overlooked by the vast
snowy pyramids of the President's Uange, 35
miles in the east.

The fort itself is an oblong S(|Mnre 2.50 yards in
length, by 150 in breadth, enclosed by pickets 20
feet in hight. The area within is "divided into
two courts, around which arc arranired 35 wooden
buildings, used as officers' dwellings, lodging
apartments for clerks, storehouses lor i'urs, goods
and grains ; and as workshops for carpenters,
blacksmiths, crMpcrs, tinners, wheelwrights, &c.
t)ne building near the rear gate is occ\ipied as a
school house ; and a lirick structure us a i>owder
magazine. The wooden buiUlings arc constnict.
ed in the following manner. Posts are raised at
convenient intervals, with grooves in the facing
sides. In these grooves jjlank are inserted hon.
zontally ; and the walls are complete. Rafters
raised upon plptis in the usual way, and covered
with boards, form the roofs.

Si.T hundred yards lielow the fort, and on the
bank of the river, is a village of 53 wooden hou.
ses, generally constructed like those within tlie
pickets. In these live the company's servants. —
Among them is a hospital, in which those of them
who Iwcome disoasod arc humanely treated. —
Back and a little east of the fort, is a barn con.
taining a mammoth threshing machine ; and near
this arc a number of long sheds, used Tor storing
grain in the sheaf. And behold the Vancouver
farm, stretching up and down the river — 3,000
acres, fenced into beautiful fields — sprinkled with
dairy houses, and herdsmen nnd shepherds' eottau
jTcsI A busy place is this. The farmer on horse,
back at break of day, summons 100 half-breeds
and Iroquois Indians from their cabins to the
fields. Twenty or thirty ploughs tear open the
the generous soil; the sowers follow with their
seed — and ])res8ing on them come a dozen har.
rows to cover it. And thus thirty or forty acres
are planted in a day, till the immense farm is un-
der crop. The season passes on — teeming with
daily industry, until the harvest waves on all
these fields. And then sickle and hoe glisten in
ti'cless activity to gather in the rich reward of
Ills toil ; — the food of 700 people at this post, and
of thousands more at the posts on the deserts in
the east and north. The saw mill, too, is a scene
of constant toil. Thirty or forty Sandwich Is.
landers are felling llie pines and dragging them
to the mill ; sets of hands are plyi;.;; two gangs of
saws by night and day. Three thousand feet of
lumber per day — 000,000 feet per annum ; con.
stantly being shipped to foreign porta.

The grist mill is not idle. It must furnish
bread stuff for the posts, and the Russian market
in the northwest. And its deep music is heard
daily and nijlilly half the year.

But we will enter the fort. The blicksmith is
repairing ploughshircs, harrow tcrth, chains, and
mill irons ; the tinman is makinj cups for the In.
dians, and camp kettles. Sir. ; the wlieelright is
making wagons, and the wood parts of ploughs
and harrows; the carpenlcr is repairing housea
nnd budding new ones ; the cooper is making bur.
rels for pickling salmon and packing furs ; the
clerks are posting books, and j)reparing the an.
nual returns to tlie board in London ; the sales-

104

Travels in the Cheat Wettem Prairies,

men arc rereiving beaver and dcalinff ont goods,
But hear t)ic voIoph of those children fVum the
Bchool house I Tlicy are llie half-lirecd offspring
of the gentlemen and servants of the cDnipany,
educated at tlie company's e.tpense, preparatory
to being apprenticed tr trades in Canada, They
Jcam the Englisli la.iguage, writing, aritlinietic,
and gcograjthy. The gardener, too, is singing
out his honest .satisfaction, as he Burvej-s from the
northern gate ten acres of apple trees laden with
fruit — his bowers of gra|)e vines — his beds of vo-
gctables and (lowers. The bell rings for dinner ;
we will see tlii' " Hall " and its convivialities.

The dining hall is a spacious room on the sr.
cond floor, ceiled with pine above and at the sides.
Jn the south west comer of it is a large close
stove, sending out sufficient caloric to make it
comfortable.

At the end of a table 20 feet in leri^lii stands
Governor McLaughlin — directing guests and <feu-
tlemcn IVoni neighboring posts to Iheir places;
and chief-traders, traders, tlic physician, clerks,
lUid the farmer, slide respectftdly to their places,
at distant^es froiri the (.iovenior corresjionding to
the dignity of their rank in the service. Th.-,nks
are given to tiod, and idl are seated. Roast beef
and pork, boiled nuitton, baked salmon, boiled
liani ; beets, carrots, turnips, cabba/je and |)ota.
toes, and wheaten bread, are tastefully distributed
over the tuble among a diimer set of elegant
'Queen's ware, burnished wisli glittering glasses
and decanters of various colored Itali.in wmes.
Course after course goes rouiul, and the (iovemor
fdls to his guests and friends ; and eaeli gentleman
in turn vies with liim in dill'using around tli<'
boaril a most generous allowance of viands, wines,
and warm fellow feeling. The cloth and wines 'I
are removed together, cigars are lighted, and a i
BtroUing smoke about the i)remises, enlivened iiy jl
ii courteous discussion of some mooted point of I
natural history or politics, closes the cen'^uionics '■
of the dinner hour at Fort Vancouver. j|

These are some of the incidents of life at Van- !;
couver. But we moor on the lower i«)inl of Wap- I
patoo Island, to regale ourselves with food and ''
fire. 'I'liis istlic highest point of it, ami is said j,
never lobe overllnwn. A bold rocky shore, iiiid ;'
the water deep enough to float the largest vessels, i,
indicate it a site for the commercial mart of the '
island. Hut the southern shore of the river, a ''
half mile Ixlow, is. i)asladoubt, the most impor-
tant point for a town site on the Colunibiu. It ii
lies at the lower mouth of the Willamette — the '
natural outlet of the iM'st agricultural district ofj
Oregon. It is a hillside of gentle acclivity, eo- ■
vcred with pine forests. There is a gorge in the ''
mountains through which a mad from it to the :
prairies on the south can easily lii' constructed. !;
At this place the H. H. Coni|)auy have erected a !'
liouse, anil occupy it with one of their servants.

Having euteu our cold lunch, we left Wappiilon
Island to the dominion of its wild hogs, and took i
again to our Isiat. It was a dri/.ziy, cheerless
day. The clouds ran fast from the sontliwesl, ;
and obscured the sun. The wind fell in irregidar ;
gusts u|)on the water, and made it thtfieult keep- !
mg our Ixiat afloat. But we liad a sturdy old';
Sandwich Islander at one oar, and some four or
five able-bodied Indians at others, and despite i.
winds and waves, idept that uight a dozen miles jj

below tlie Cowelitz. Thus far below Vancouver,
the Columbia was generally more than 1,000 yards
wide, girded on either side by mountains rising,
very generally, from the water side, .2,000 or
.■{,000 feet in height, and covered with dense fo.
rests of pine and fir. These mo<intauis are used
by the ("henooks as burial places. During the
epidemic fever of 1832, which ahnist swept this
portion of the Columbia valley of its inliabitants,
vast mnnbers of the dead were placed among
them. They were usually «Taj)ped in okins,
placed in canoes, and hung "to the lioughs of trees
ti or 8 fcvi from the ground. Thousands of these
were seen.

They hung in groups near the water side. One
of them had a canoe inverted over the one con-
taining the dead, and laphcd tightly to it. Wo
were often driven ck)sc to the shore by the heavy
wind, and alwaj's noticed that these sepulchral
canoes were perforated at the bottom. I was in-
fomied that this is always done for the twofold
purpose of letting out the water whieli the rains
may dejjositc in them, aiul of preventing their
ever being used again by the living.

The .3d was a blustering day. The southerly
winds drove in a heavy tide from the Pacific, and
lashed tlie C'olumbia into 'oam ; but by keeping
under the windward shore, we made steady pro.
gress till sunset, when the incre.ised expanse of
the river indicated that w^e were about 15 miles
from the sea. The wind <Ucd away, and wo
pushed on rapidly ; but the darkness was so great
that we lost our coiu^e, and grounded upon a
saiuli.ar three miles to the north of Tongue Point.
.Vfler considerable trouble, we succeeded in get.
ting off. steered to the northern shore, and hi half
an hour were again in deep water. But " the
shi]j — the ship," was on every tongue. Was it
above or below Tongue Point ! If the latter, wo
could not reach it tliat night, for the wind fresh-
ened again every instant, and tlu' waves grew an-
gry and fearful, and dashed into the l)oat at every
swe(-p of the paddles. \Vc were l)egiuning to
calculate our pros])ectH of another hour's breathing
when the shadowy outline of the ship was
brought between us and the open horizon of the
mouth of till' river, a half mile below us. The
oars struck fast and jrowerfully now, and the
frad boat shot over the whitened waves for a few
niinules, and lay dancing and surging under the
lee of the noble •' Vancouver." A rope was has-
tily thrown us, and we stood upon her beautiM
fleck, manifestly bareU' saved from a watery
grave. For now the sounding waves broke aw-
fidlv all around us. Captain Duncan received us
very kiiully. and introduced us unmcdiately to
the cordial hospitalities ef his cabin. The next
morniiiLr we drop|K'd down to Astoria, and an-
chiired 1<I0 vards from the shore. The eaptrin
an<l passengers landed aliont 10 o'clock ; and as 1
felt peculiar interesi in the spot, immortalized no
less hy the genius of Irving than the enterprise of
.lohii Jacob Astor, I spent iriy time very indus-
triously in exploring it.

The site of this place is thrive quarters of a mile
alH)ve the [sjint of land between the Columbia
and Clatsop Bay. It is a hillside, tbmierly co.
vered with a very heavy forest. The space that
has been cleared may amount to four acres, It is
rendered too wet for cultivation by numberlecs

in (he Rocky Mountain*, the Oregon Territory, 8(c.

105

springB bursting from the Hurfiicc. Tlio back
;rrouii(l iH Btill K forest rining over lofty hills ; in
the foreground is the f !olumbin, and the broken
|)inc hills of the op|X)sitc shore. The Pacific opens
in the west.

Astoria bus passed away ; nothing is left of its
buildings but an old batten cedar door ; nothing
remaining of its bastions and pickets, but a half
dozen of the latter, tottering among the under,
brush. While scrambling over the grounds, we
c!ame upon the trunk of an immense tree, long
since prostrated, which mcasurccl between six and
seven fathoms in circumference. No infonnation
could bo obtained us to the length of time it had
been decaying.

The Hudson's Bay Company are in possession,
and call the jK)st Fort Gimrgc. They have erect-
ed three log buildings, and occupy them with a
clerk, who acts as a telegraph keeper of events at
the moulh of the river. If a vessel arrives, or is
seen laying off and on, information of the fact is
sent to Vancouver, witli all the rapidity that can
\k extracted from ari.is '.nd jjaddles.

This individual also carries on a limited trade
with Die f'henook u id Clatsop Indians. Ard
such is his influenre over them, that he boi-rs
among the company's gentlemen the very distu).
guishcd title of " King of the Clienooks." He is
a fine, lusty, companionable fellow, and I am dis.
posed to believe, wears the crown with quite as
little injury to his subjects as to himself.

In the afternoon we bade adieu to Astoria, and
dro))ped down toward Cape Disapiwintmenl. —
The channel of the river runs from the fort in a
northwestern direction to the point of the Capo,
and thence close under it in a southwesterly
coiu'sc the distance of foiu' niilrs, where it crosses
the bar. The wind was quite bafllmg while we
were crossing to the nortliern side ; and we con-
spiiuently began to anticipate a long residence in
Baker's Hay. But as we near(>d the Cape, a de.
lightful breeze sprang up in the east, filled every
sail, and rushed the stately ship through the heavy
seas and swells most merrily. The lead is dip.
ping, and the sailors are chanting each measure
as they take it ; we approach the bar ; the sound-
ings decrease ; every sliout grows more and more
awful I the keel of the Vancouver is within fif-
teen inches of the bur 1 Kvery breath is suspend-
ed. and every eye fixed on the leads, as tliey are
(|uickly thrown again 1 They sink ; and the
I'hant for five fathoms enables us to breathe freely.
We have passed the bar; and Captain Piuiean
grasps his passengers by the band warmly, and
congratulates them at having escaped Ix'ing lost
in those wild waters, where many a noble ship
niul briwe heart have simk together and forever.

Ott'the mouth of the Colninbia — on the deep,
long swells of the Pacific seas. The rolling siir-
geH Ijooni along the moimtaiuons slinres I Up the
vale 100 mileslhe white jiyramid of .Mount Wa.sli.
iugton towers alxive tlic clouds, and the green lor-
eslB of ) lower Oregon I That scene I shall never
forget. It was t<K) wild, too unearthly to be des-
cribed. It was seen at sunset : and a night >f
horrid tem|>est shut in upon tliik, the author's last
view of Orsjon.

I The following abstract of Commander Wilkes'
I Report on Oregon cantc to iiand while tliis work
j was in press, and the author takes great pleasure
■ in appending it to his work. Mr. Wilkes' statis.
\ tics of the Territory, it will be seen, agree in all
jj essential particulars with those given on previous
pages. There is one point only of any importance
that needs to I..; named, in regard to which truth
requires a protest ; and that is contained in the
commander's concluding remarks. It will he. seen
on reference to ihcm, that the agricultural capa-
bilities of Oregon arc placed 'ibove those of any
part of the world beyond th j tropics. This is a
most surprising conclusion ; at war with his own
aceoimt of the several sections whicli he visited,
and denied by every intelligent man living in the
territory. What I Oregon, in this respect, equal to
< 'alifornia, or the Valley of the Mississippi ! This
can never be until Oregon be blessed with a vast
increase of productive soil, and ('alifornia and our
own imeciualled Valley be greatly chaiiged.

lixlrncts from Ihi: Report of Lieu enant Witkfs
lu the Secretury nf the Nary, ■>/ the rxami.
uiiliun, by the Exploring Expedition, nf the
Oregon Territory.

The Territory embraced under the name of Or.
egon, extends from latitude 43° north to that of
54° 40' north, and west of the Rocky Mountains.
Its natural bcmndaries, were they attended to,
would confine it within the above gcogra]>hical
Ixnmdaries.

On the cast it has the range of Rocky Moun-
tains along its whole extent ; on the south thost;
of the Klamet range, running on the parallel of
42°, aiul dividing it from California; on the west
the Pacific Ocean ; and on the north the western
trend of the Rocky .Mountains, and the chain of
lakes near and along the parallels of 54'-' and 55°
north, dividing it from the British territory. It
is remarkahli' that, within these limits, all the riv-
ers that llow through the Territory take their
rise.

The Territory is divided into three natural
belts or sections, viz:

1st. That between the Pacific Ocean and Cas-
cade Mountains, ( President's range) or Western
section ;

:.'d. 'J'hat between the Cascade mountains au<l
Bine moimtain range, or middle section ;

.'td. That between the Blue and Roekj' Moun.
tain <-liains, or eastern section.

And (his division will equally apply to the soil,
climate, aiul productions.

'J'lie nionnlain ranges run, for the most pari, in
parallel lines with the coast, and. risinn in many
plaei's al«)ve the snow line, (here found to be
11,500 feel,) would naturally produce a ditrerenec
of lemperalnri" between them, and also affect
llieir productions.

Our snrvi ys and exjilorations w<'re l jnfincd,
for the most part, to the two lirst, claiming more
interest from being less known, and more in ae.
cordance with my instructions.

Moi'XTAixs. — 'riieC'aseade range, or that neir

Travels in the Great Western Prairies,

rat the coast, ninn from the southern boundary,
on a parallel with the sea coast, the whole length
of the Territory, north and South, risinfj, in many
places, in hiijh peaks, from 12,000 lo 11,000 feet
above the level of the sen, in regular cones. —
Their distance from the coast lino is from 100 to
150 miles, and they almost interrupt the eomniu-
nication ImbIwccu the srctions, except where the
two great rivers, the Columbia and Frazer's force
u passage through them.

Tlicrc arc a few mountain jiasscs, but they arc
ditRcult, and only to be attempted late in the
spring and summer.

A small range (the C'liiset) lies to the north,
ward of the Columbia, between the coast and the
waters of Pugct'a Sound, and along the strait of
.luan de '•"uca. This has several high peaks,
which rise alx)ve the snow line, hut, from their
proximity to the sea, tliey arc not ut all times
covercii.

Their general direction is north and south, but
there are many spurs or ofTsets that cause this
])ortion to be very rugged.

The Blue mountains arc irregular in their
course, and occasionally interrupted, but generally
trend from north by cast to northeast, and from
south to southwest.

In some parts thev may be traced as spurs or
offsets of the Rocky ^fountains. Near the south-
ern boundary they unite with the Klamet range,
which runs cast and weat from the Kocky Moun-
tains.

The Rocky Mo\m tains arc too well known to
need description. The different passes will, how-
ever, claim attention hereafter. North of 48°
the ranges are nearly parallel, and have the rivers ,
(lowing between them.

Islands. — Attached to the Territory arc groupi
of Islands, Iwirdering its northern coast. Among
these are the large islands of Vancouver and
\Vashinj,'on or (^uecn Charlotte ; the former bo-
inor 2ti0 miles in length and .'iO in width, contain-
ing about 15,000 square miles, and the latter 1.50
miles in length and 30 in liroadth, containing
•1,000 s(iuarc miles.

Though somewhat broken in surface, their soil
IB said to be well adapted to agriculture.

They have mnny good hurbora, and have long
been the resort of those nigac:ed in the fur trade ;
they enjoy a mild and 8:ihil)ri<)us climate, and
have an abundance of fine f'sh frequent ng their
waters, which arc taken in I: rgc quantities by the
natives. Coal of good qu; lity is found, sppci-
mcnu of whieh I obtained. The Hudson's Bay
Company have mideatrialof it, but, owing to
its having been taken from near the surface, it
was not very highly spoken of. Veins of luine.
rals are also said to exist by those aequauited
with these islands.

They Imth appear to be more densely inhabited
than other portions of the Territory. Tlie na.
lives are considered a treacherous race, particu-
larly those in llie vicinity of .lohnson's straits, and
arc to be closely watched when deaUng with
Ihom.

At the southeast end of Vancouver's there is a
small archipelago of islands, through whicli the
canal de Arro runs. Tlicy arc for the most part
uninhabited, well wooded, and coin|)<>se<l of gran-
ite and pudding cton«, which appear to bo the i

prevailing rock to the northward of a line east
from the strait of Juan de Fuca. They arc gen.
erallj' destitute of fresh water, iiave but few an.
chorages, and strong currents render navigation
among them difficult.

The islands nearer the main land, called on
the maps Pitt's Banks, or the Prince Royal isl-
ands, are ol the ramc cliaracter, and arc only oc-
casionally resorted to by the Indians, for the pur-
pose of fishing.

The coast of thcmainland, north of the paral-
lel of JD^, is broken up by numerous inlets called
canals, having perpendicular sides, and very deep
water in them, affording no harljors, and but few
commercial inducements to frequent them.

The land is equally cut up by spurs from the
Cascade range, whicli here intersects the country
in all directions, and prevents its adaptation for
agriculture.

Its value is principally in its timber, and it is
believed that few if any countries can compare
with it in this respect.

There is no part on this coast where a settle-
ment could be formed between Frazer's river, or
'W north, and the northern boundary of 54° 40'
north, that would be able to supply its own wants.

The Hudson's Bay Company have posts within
this section of the country — Fort McLaughlin, in
Millbank sound, in latitude 52° 10' north, and
Fort Simpson, in latitude 54° 30' north, witliin
Dundas island, and at the entrance of Chatham
sound ; but they are only posts for the fur trade of
the coast, and arc suppUed twice a year with pro-
visions, &c.

It is believed that the company have yet no es-
tablishment on any of the islands ; but I under-
stood it was in contemplation to make one on
Vancouver's island, in the vicinity of Nootka
Sound, or tiiat of Clyoquot.

Owing to the dense fogs, the coast is extreme-
ly dangerous ; and they render it at all times dif.
ficult to approach and navigate along. The inte-
rior of th;s portion of the Territory is traversed
by the three ranges of mountains, with the scve-
ral rivers which take their rise in them, and is
probably unequalled for its ruggedness, and, from
all accounts, incapable of any thing like cultiva.
tion.

The Columbia in its trend to the westward,
along the parullel of 48°, cuts off the central or
Blue mountain range, which is not again met
witli until on the parallel of 45°. From 45° they
trend away to the southward and westward, until
they fall into the Klamet range. This latter por-
tion is but partially wooded.

Rivers. — The Columbia claims the first notice.
Its northern branch takes its rise in the Rocky
mountains in latitude 50° north, longitude 116°
west ; from thence it pursues a northern route to
near McCiillivary's Puss, in the Rocky mountains.
At the l)oat encampment the river is 3,600 feet
aliove the level of the sea, (here it receives two
small tributaries, the Canoe river and that from
the Committee's Punch Bowl ;) from thence it
tunii south, having some obstructions to its safa
navigation, aud receiving many tributaries in its
course to C'olviile, among which are the Koota-
nie, or Flat Bow, and the Flat Head or Clarke riv-
er from the eatt, and that of Colvillc from the
west.

in the Rocky Mountains, the Oregon Territory, SfV.

107

This preat river is bounded tliim fnr on its
coirsc by n ranijc of high moiintainn, well-wood-
0(1, and in places rxpandu into a linr of lakes be.
fore it rcacheH Colville, where it id ',',0 lit feet above
the level of the sen, having a fall of ^.lO feet in
i.'30 miles. To the Foiitb of thin it trends to the
westward, reeeivinfj the Spoknn river from the
(•ast, which is not naviffable, and takes its rise in
the t.ake of (.'u;ur d'Alene. Thence it pursues a
wCHterly course for about GO miles, reccivinsf scv-
tral smaller streams, and at its bend to the wiutli
it is joined by the Okanatran, a river that has its
source in a luie of lakes, affordinc; canoe jnd boat
navigation for n considerable extent to the north-
ward.

The Columbia thence paHscs to the southward
until it reaches Wallawalla, in the latitude of •1,'')='
a distance of IGfi miles, receiving; the Piscous,
Y'Akania, and Point de Uoise, or Entyatecwini,
from the west, which take their rise in the (':ih.
cade rani^e, and also its great southeastern branch,
the Sapliii or Lewis, which has its source in tlie
Rocky mountains, ne.ir our southern Iwiundary,
and brinjjs a large quantity of water to increase
the volume of the main stream. The Ijcwis in
not navigable, even for canoes, except in reaches.
The rapids am extensive and of frequent occur,
rcncc. It generally passes between the Hoeky
mountain spurs and the Blue mountains. It re.
ccives the Koos-koos.ke, Salmon, and several oth-
er rivers, from the east and west — ttie former from
the Rocky mountains, the latter from the IJhie
mountains — and, were it navigable, would much
faeilitato the intercourse with this part of the
eountry. Its length to its junction with the Co-
lumhia is ,590 n.iles,

'I'he Columbia at Wallawalla is l.aSG feet above
the level of the sea, and about 3,500 fwt wide ;
It now takes its last turn to the westward, reeeiv.
ing the Umatilla, yuiKncl's, John Day's, and de
Chute rivers from the south, and Cathlatate's
from the north, pursuing its rapid course of SI)
miles, previous to passing through the range of
Cascade mountains, in a series of falls and rapids
that obstruct its flow, and form insurmountable
b.irriers to the ])a8sage of boats by water during
the floods. These difliculties, however, arc over,
come by portages.

From thence there is si ill- water nnvipntion for
forty niiles, when its course is again obstructed
by rapids.

Thence to the ocean, 100 milrs, it is navigable
for vessels of \'J feet draught of water at the low.
est state of the river, though obstructed by many
sand-bars.

In this |)art it roTives the Willamette from
the south, and the ( 'owelitz from Ihc north. The
foniier is navigable tor small vessels OfT miles, to
the mouth of the Klackanms, three milca below
its falls; the latter cannot Im" called navigable ex-
cept for a small part of the year, during the
floods, and then oidy for canoes and barges.

The width of the Columbia, within 00 miles
of its mouth, is much increased, and it joiim the
ocean iHtwecn Cape Diyuppoinlmerit and Point
Adams, forming a sand-spit from each bv dr|Kis-
it, and causing a dangerous bar, which greatly
impedes its navigation and entrance.

Frazer's river next claims attention. It takes
its rise in the Uocky mountains, near the source

of Canoe river, taking n northwesterly course of
MO miles; it then turns to the southw.ard, reeeiv.
ing the waters of Stuart's river, which rises in a
chain of lakes near the northern boundary of the
Territory.

It then pursues a southerly course, receiving
the waters of the Chilcotin. Pinkslitsa, and seve-
red smaller streams, .""rom the west, and those of
Thompson's river, (iuisnell's, and other streams,
from I hi' cast, (these take their rise in lakes, and
are navigable in canoes, by making portages;)
and under the parallel of -1!)° it breaks through
the ('aseadc range in a succession of falls and
rapids, and, after a westerly course of 70 miles,
it empties into the Gulf of Georgia, in the lati.
tude of 11)^ 07' north. This latter |)ortion is nav-
igable for vessels that can pass its bar drawing
10 feet water; its whole length being .350 miles.

The Chikeelis is next in im|)ortance. It has
three sources among the range of hills that inter-
;-ect the coimtry north of the Columbia river. —
.Mter a very tortuous course, and receiving some
small streams issuing from the lakes in the high
ground near the head- waters of Hood's canal and
Pugefs .Sound, it disemlwgucs in Grey's harlxjr;
it is not navigable except for canoes ; its current
i.i rapid, and the stream much obstructed.

To the south of the Columbia there are many
small streams, but three of which deserve the
name of rivers: the Umpqua, Too-too-tut-na, or
Kogues' river, and the Klamet, which latter emp.
ties into the ocean south of the parallel of 40 de-
grees. None of these fonn Imrlmrs capable of re-
ceiving a vessel of more than eight feet draught

' of water, and tlie bars for most part of Ihc ysar
are impassable from the surf that sets in on the
coast. The character ol the great rivers is pecu-
liar — rapid and sunken much below the level of
the eountry, with perpendicular banks; indeed

- they are, as it were, in trenches, it Ix-ing extreme,
ly (lifHcult to get at the water in many places,
owing to the steep basaltic walls ; and during the
rise they are in many places confined by dal'cs,
which hack the water some distance, submerging

j i^lanJs and tractn iif low prairie, giving the ap-
pearance of extensive lakes.

ii Lakks.— 'I'here arc in the various sections of

I. the eountry many likes. The Dkanagan, Stu-

: art's, QuisneU'H, and Kamloop's are the largest
in the nnrthem section.

The Flat How.Cieur d'Alfine, and Kulluspelm,
in the middle section, and those forming the liead.
waters of the large rivers in the eastern section.

The eoimlry is well watered, and there are but
few places where an abundance of water, either
from rivers, spriiigs, or riviUets, cannot bo ob.
tained.

The snialler lakes add much to the picturesque
beauty of the couulry. They are generally at the
headwaters of the smaller streams. The map
will point out more particularly their extent Emd

• locality.

IIauuors. — .\ll the harlxirs formed by the riy.
ers on the sea coast are obstructed with cxtensivo
s:in<l bars, which make them difficult to enter.
The rivers bring down large quantities of sand,
which is deposited on meetinjj with the ocean,

, ciiusmg a gradual increase of the im|)ediment»
already exist Ing at their mouths. None of '.hem

I. can be deemed safe jwrts to enter. The sntrancs

108

Travels in tin Great Western Prairies,

to the Columliia is impraclicalilc two.thircis of the
j'oar, and the difticutty of leaving in rqually groat.

The nortli sands arc rai)idly incrruKing, and ex-
tending further to the noutliward. In tlie memory
of sovcral of thoBC wlio have been longest in the
country, C'apc Disappointment haK l>een enoroaeli.
I'd upon some himdrcd feet bytlic sea, and, during
my short oxpcrienec, nearly half an acre; of the
mnhllc sanilH was washed away in a few days,
'I'liese Bands are known to cliange every season.

The exploration made of the (.'lalsop or South
channel, it i«< hclieve<l, will give more safety to
vessels ca])ahle of entering the river. 'I'he depth
of water on the bar seems not to have ebanged,
though the passage has become somewhat narrow.

(irey's liarlxir will admit of vessels of light
draught of water, (10 feet,) but there is but little
room in it on account of the extensive mud and
sand fliits. A survey was made of it, to whicli I
refer for particulars,

'I'his, however, is not the ease with the liarlwjis
formed within the straits of Juan dc Fuca, of
which there are many ; and no part of the world
affords finer iidand sounds or a greater numlxT of
harbors than can be found here, capable of rcceiv-
ing the largest class of vessels, and without a
danger in them that is not visible. From the rise
and fall of the tides, (18 feet,) all facilities are
atlbrdcd for the erection of works for a great
maritime nation. For further information, our
extensive surveys of these waters are referred to.

("UM.VTK. — That of the western section is mild
tliroughout the year — neither experiencing the
cold of winter nor the heat of summer. Hy my
experiments, the mean temperature was found to
lie M° of Falirenhcit. .

'J'he prevailing winds in the sununer arc from
the northward and westward, and in the winter
from the southward and westward and southeast,
which arc tempestuous. The winter is supposed ■
to last from Decend)er to February : rains usually
begin to fall in November and lust till March, but
they are not heavy though frequent.

Snow sometimes falls, but it seldom lies over
three days. The frosts are early, occurring in the
latter part of August ; this, howevitr, is to be ac.
counted for by the proximity of the mountains.
A mountain or easterly wind invariably causes a
great fall in the temperature ; these winds arc not
frequent. During the sununer of our ojicrations,
I found but l/ircc dcijs noted of easterly winds.

The nights are cold, and afl'eet the vegetation
so far that Indian corn will not ripen. Fruit trees
blossom early in April at Nisqually and Vancou-
ver ; and at the former place on the Itith of May
l)ea8Were a foot high, strawberries in full blossom,
and salad had already gone to seed.

The mean bight of the buronictrr during our
stay at Nistpially was ItD.OKi iuelies, and of the
thermometer ()G° .'iH. Fahrenheit. The llierniouie.
ler at 1 A. M. on the -1th of .Inly was at ,'ilP
Fahrenheit, and on the same day at ::J 1'. M, 'JU'^
Fahrenheit, The lowest decree was 'M° at 1 A,
M. May -Jrid, and at ,5 P. M. of n.e same day the
temperature was 7d° of Fahrenlieit.

From June to .Septend)er. at Vancouver, the
mean hight of the barometer was 'M.'A'i inches,
and of the thermometer 00"' 3;t of Fainenheit.
OiUof lOfi days 7t> were fair, 1!) cloudy, and II
rainy. The rains are ligld ; this is evident from

the hills not hMng wttshed, and having a sward
to their tops, althnu^li of grriil itrrliirity.

The second or nnddle section is subject to
droughts. During the summer the atmosphere is
much drier and warmer, and the winter much
colder than in the western section. Its extremes
of heat and cold are more frequent and greater,
the mercury at times falling as low as minus H°
of Fahrenlieit in the winter, and rising lo \tf[P
in the shade in summer; the daily diU'errnee of
temperature is akiut 111° Fahrenlieit. It has,
however, been found J'xtremely salubrious, [los-
sessing a pure and healthy air.

The stations of the missionaries and |ioHts of
the Hudson Day Company have afforded me the
menus of obtaining information relative lo the
climate. Although full data liavc not been kept,
vet these observations allbrd a tolerably good
knowledge of tlic weather,

III summer the utinosphi're is cooled by the
.strong westerly breezes, which replaced the va-
cuum produced by the heated prairie grouuds. So
dews fall in this section.

The climate of the third or eastern section is
extremelv variable. The temperature during the
day, diftering from M'^ to (iO'^, renders it unfit
for agriculture, and there are but few places in its
northern part where the climate would not ertcetu-
ally put a stop toils ever becoiinng settled.

In each day, from the best accounts, one has
all the changes incident to spring, siunmer, au-
tumn, and winter. Theio are places where small
farms might be located, but they arc few in num-
ber.

Soil. — That of the first or western section va-
ries in the northern jiarts from a light brown loam
to a thill vegetable earth, with gravel and sand as
a .sub-soil ; in the middle ])arts from a rich heavy
ioaiii and unctuous clay to a deeji heavy black
loam on a trap roek; and in the southern the soil
is generally good, varying from a black vegetabh-
loam to decomposed basalt, with stiH" clay, and
portions of loose gravel soil. The hills are gene-
rally basalt, and stone, and slater

Between the Fin]>qua and the iKiundary the
rocks are primitive, consisting of falcon slate,
hornblende, and granite, which produce a gritty
and jHior soil ; there are, however, some places of
rich pruirie covered with oaks.

The soil of the leconil or nnddle .section is for
file most part a light sandy loam, in llie valleys
rich alluvial, and the hills are generally barren.

Tlie third o stern section is a rocky, broken,
and barren country. Stupendous mountain spurs
traverse it in all directions, affording httle level
ground; snow lies on the moimlains nearly if not
quite the year Ihrougli.

.Vcjiiuii.TiiiK, PuomCTioNs, fuc. — The first
section, for tlie most part, is a vvell-tiinbered coun-
try ; it is inlcrscctcd with the sjmrs or offsi'ts from
the Cascade mountains, which render its surface
much broken : these arc covered with a dense
forest. It is well watered, and communieation
between the northern, southern, and middle parts
is dilhcult, on aeconnt of the various rivers, spurs
of mountains, &c.

'I'he timber consists of pines, firs, spruce, oaks,
(red and white,) ash, arbutus, arlior vitie, cedar,
|)oplar, maple, willow, cherry, and tew, Willi a
close undcrgrowlh ol'hrizel, rubus, roses, &c, The

in the Rocky Mountains, the Oregon Territory, ifc.

J09

richest and best soil is found on the second or mid-
dle! prniric, and is brHt ndaplnl for nfrriciilturc,
Uic high and low bring cxcoIImiI for pasture land.

Tlio line of woods runs on the cast side, and
near the foot of the Cascade "-aniro. Tlio climate
and soil are admirably ada|)tc<l for all kinds of
grain, wlieat, rye, oals, barley, peas, &e. Indian
com doert not thrive in any part of this territory
where it has l«^en tried. .Many fruits appear to
wiceeed well, particularly the apple and ])ear. —
Viigctubles grow exceedingly well, and yield most
abundantly.

'I'he surface of iIk' middle section is about one
thousand I'eet jibove the level of the first or west-
em section, and is generally a rolling prairie coun-
try. 'I'liat part lying to the north of the paralUl
of 18° is very much broken with mountain chains
and rivers, eontequently barren and very nigged.
From the great and fref|iR'iit changes in its tem-
perature, it is totally unfit for agricultiuc, but is
well supplied with game of all the kinds that ore
found in the country.

The mountain chains on the parallel of ■IH° are
rnt ofV" by the Columbia as before stated, leaving
lUt extensive rolliiior country in the centre of the
'JVrritory, which is well adapted for grazing.

'I'he southern part of this section is destitute of
limber or wood, unless the worm wood (artimesia)
may be w) called. To the northward of the par.
ollel of 49'^ it is covered with forests. Wheat and
other grains grow well in the bottoms, where they
can be irrigated. The soil in such places is rich,
and capable of producing ali.'.osl any thing.

The missionaries have succeeded ill raising g<K)d
crops. Stock succeeds here even better tiian in
the lower country. Notwilhslaiiding the severe
cold, the cattle are not housid, nor is provender
laid in for tlicm, the country being suificirntly
supplied with fodder in the natural hay that I's
abundant every where on the ]>rairie, which is
preferred by the cattle to the fresh gras.i at the
imttnins.

No attempts at agriculture have l)ecn made in
the third section, except at Fort .''all. The small
grains thrive tolerably well, togeli. <■ with vegeta-
bles, and a. sullicient (piantity has been obtained
to supply the wants of the [K)st.

'I'he ground is well adapted for grazing in the
prairies, and, despite its changeable climate, stock
is found to thrive well and endure the severity of
the winter without protection.

This section is exceeding dry and arid, iiMus
seldom falling, and but little snow. The country
is partially timbered, and the soil much iiii|)ieg-
nated with salts. The missionary station on the
Koos koos.ke. near the; western line of this sec-
tion, is thought by the missionaries to he a irrl
rlimute.

The soil along the river lioltoms is generally
alluvial, and woidd yield good crops, were it not
for the overflowing of the rivers, which check and
kdl the grain. Somr of the tuiest portions of the
land are thus unfitted for cultivation ; they are
generally covered with water before the banks are
overflown in consequence of the quick sands that
exist in them, and through which the water per-
colates.

Tiio rivers of this Territory alFord no fertilizing
properties to the soil, but, on the contrary, are des-
titute of uU substunccs. The temperature of the

Columbia in the latter part of May wa« 42°, and
in September (J8°.

The rise of the streams flowing from the Cos.
cade mountains takes place twice a year, in Feb.
riiary and November, from the rains ; that of the
Columbia in May and June, from the melting of
the snows. Sometimes the rise of the latter is
very sudden, if heavy rains occur at tlial period ;
hut usually it is gradual, and reaches its greatest
bight from the (ith to the l.'ith of June. Its per-
pcndicular rise is from 18 to 'M feet at Vancouver,
where a line ol embankment has been thrown up
to proloc-t the lower prairie ; but it has been gene-
rally ttoodcd, and the crops in most cases destroyed.
It is the intention to abandon its cultivation, and
devfile it to pasturage.

'i'he greatest rise in the Willamette lakes place
III February ; and 1 was informed that it rose
sonielimes lit) to 'lit feet, and quite suddenly, but
soon subsides. It occasionally cauw's nmcli
damage.

Both the Willamette and Cowclit/ are much
swollen by tla? backing of (heir waters during the
hight of the Columbia, and all their lower grounds
submerged, 'i'his puts an cfTectual bar to their
prairies Uing used for iuiy thing but pasturage,
which is tine throughout the year, excepting in the
si-awm of the floods, when the cattle are driven to
the high grounds.

My knowledge of the agrieiillnre of this Ter-
ritory, it will be well to mention, is derived from
visits made to the various settlements, except Fort
Langley and Fort Mall.

The Indians on the dill'erent islands in Puget's
Sound and Admiralty inlel^ciiltivate |Xjtatoes prui-
cipally, which are extremely tine and raised in
great abimdaiice, and now constitute a large (sir-
tion of their food.

At Nisqually the Hudson Bay Company had fine
crops of wheat, oats, peas, fwtatoes, &,o. |Tln!
wheat, it was supposed, would yield fifteen bushels
to the acre. The farm has been two years under
cultivation, and is principally intended for u graz-
ing and dairy farm. 'I'hey have now sevtntv
miUdi cows, and iiiakc butter, &,c., to supply their
contract with the Russians.

The Cowelitz farm is also in the western section,
the produce of wheat is good — about twenty
bushels to the acre. The ground, however, lias
just been brought under cultivation. The com-
pany have here (JOI) acres, which arc situated on
the Cowelilz river, about thirty miles from the
Columbia, and on the former are about erecting u
saw and grist mill. The farm is finely situated,
and the harvest of 1811 produced 7,000 bushels
of wheat.

Several ('anadiaiis arc also established here,
who told me that they succeeded well with but lit.
tie work. They have erected buildings, live com.
fortably, and work small farms of 50 acres,

I was told that the stock on these farms thd not
thrive as well as elsewhere. There arc no low
prairie groimds on the river, in this vicinity, and
it is too far for them to resort to the Kamas plains,
a tine grazing coimlry, but a few njilcs distant.
The wolves make sad depredations with the in-
crease of their flock, f not well watched.

The hilly |iortion of the country, although its
soil in many places is very good, is yet so heavily
timbered as to make it, in tlic present state ' f liic

Travels in Oh Great Western Prairies,

country, vnliiclcsi ; this is also tlio casr witli many
fine portions of level f^round. Tlu're are, how.
ever, large tracts of fiiw prairie, siiilublc for cul.
tivation, and ready for the plough.

The Willamrtle valley is Kiipposed to ho the
finest portion of the country, Ihoiifjh I am of opin-
ion that many parts of the snulliern |)ortion of the
Territory will be fonnd far superior to it. 'I'he
largest settlement is in the northern part of the
valley, some 15 miles almve I lie falls. About 61)
families are settled there, tlm industrious of whom
appear to he thrivinnf. They are composed of
American missionaries, trappers, and Canadians,
who were formerly servants of tlie Hudson's Hay
Company. All of Ihein appeared (o he doini; well ;
but I was on the whole disaiipointcd, fromllie re-
ports that had been made to inc, not to (ind the
settlement in a slate of greater forwardness, eon-
siilerinp; the a<lvantan;c» the missionaries have h;id.

In comparison with our own eountrv, 1 would
Buy that the labor necessary in this 'I'eiritory to
acquire wealth or subsislence is in the prnportiou
of one to three ; or, in other words, a man nuist
work throufrh the year three limes as luueh in the
United .States, to pain the lihe compctenev. 'I'he
care of stock, which occupies so mn<h time with
us, requires no attention there, and on tbe increase
only a man mifjht lind support.

The wheat of this valley yields S.'i to 40 bush-
1.1s for one sown, or '£) to .'I'j bushels to the acre;
its quality is superior to that ;rrown in the United
Slates, and its weifjht nearly four prouiuls to the
bushel heavier. The above is the yield of new
land; but it is believed it will ixreally exceed Ibis
after tbe third crop, when the land has been brok.
in up and well tilled.

After passiiii; mto tbe middle section, tlie eli-
mate underfjocs a decided e,han;rt. ; in phice of tbe
cool and moist atmosphere, one that is dry and
arid is entered, and the crops suli'er from drought.

The only wood or bushseen. is the worm-wood,
rartimcsia,) and this only in places. .VII eidli-
vation has to be more or less carried on by irriga.
tion.

'I'he country bordering the Columbia, alxjve the
Dalles, to the north and soiUh of the river, is the
poorest in the Territory, and has no iloubt led
many to look upon the middle section as perfectly
useless to man. Twenty or thirty miles on either
side of the river are so ; but hiyoiid that a fine
prrazing country exists, and in very many places
there are portions of it that mi^ht be advantage-
ously farmed. On the banks of the W'allawalla.
a small stream emptying into the Columbia, about
25 miles from the company's [lost, a missionary is
established, who raises very (itie wheat on tbe low
bottoms, by using its waters for the purpose of ir.
rigation. This is also the ca.se at the mission sta-
tion at Lapwai, on the Loos-koos-ke, where fine
crops are raised ; grains, vegetables and some
fruits thrive remarkably well. In the northern
part of this section, at t'himekaine, there is ano-
ther missionary station. Near the Spokan, and
ut Colville, the country is well adapted for agri.
culture, and it is successfully carried on.

Colvdle supjilies all the northern posts, and the
missionaries in its vicinity are doing well. The
northern part of this .section will be able to supply
the whole southern part with wood. At Colville
the chongos of temperature are great during the

I 34 hours, but are not injurious to the small grain.
I The cultivation of fruit has been succcsHful.

! FisiiEnirs. — It will be almost impossible to
give an idea of the extensive fisherins in the rivers
and on the coast. They all almund in salmon of
the finest flavor, which run twice a year, begin,
ning m May and October, and appear inexhausti-
ble ; the whole popidalinn live upon them. The
Columbia produces the largest, and probably af-
fords the greatest ninnbers. There are some few
of the branehcs of the Columbia that the spring
fish do not enter, but they are pleiilifuUy supplied
in the fall.

Till' great fishery of the ( 'oluiubia is at 'he Dal.
les; but all the rivi-rs are well sujiplicd. The last
one on the norlhern branch of llu' Columbia is
near Colville, at the Kettle falls ; but salmon are
found almve this in the river and its tnbutarics.

In Urazer's river the sahnon ari^ said to be very
numerous, but not large ; they are unable to get
above the falls some HO miles from the sea.

In the rivei's and sounds are found several kinds
of salmon, salmon trout, sturgeon, cod, carp sole,
fiounders, ray. perch, herring, lamprey icis, and a
kind of smelt, called '• shiiiw," in great abun-
, dance; also large quantities of shell fish, viz;
crabs, clams, oysters, rnu.seles, \-.c., wbieli arc all
used by the natives, and constitute tbe greater
proportion of their food.

AVhales in numbers .irc found along the coast,
and are frequenlly captured by the Indians in
and at the mouth of the straits o, .Imn de l''uca.

(i.\ME. — Abundance of game exists, such as
elk, deer, antelo|)e, bears, wolves, foxes, nniskrals,
martins, beavers, a few grizzly bears and silHeurs,
which are eaten by the Canadians. In the mid.
die section, or that designated as the rolling prai-
rie, no (rame is found. In the eastern section the
bulFalo is met with. The fu r-bearing animals are
decreasing in nundvrs yearly, particidarly soulh
of tbo parallel of -IH^ ; mdeed it is very doubtful
i whether they are sufficiently numerous to repay
I the expense of hunting them.

The Hudson's Hay Company have almost the ex-
; elusive nionn|)oly of this business. They have
, decreased, owing to being bunted without regard
1 to season. This is not, however, the case to tbe
' north ; there the company have been left to exer-
cise their own rule, and prevent the indiscrinii-
nate slaughter of either old or young, out of the
proper season.

In the spring and fall, the rivers are literally

covered with geese, ducks, and other water fowl.

In the eastern section, the butt'alo abound, and

are bunled by the (Oregon Indians, as well as th(^

Black Feet. Wolves are troublesome to the set.

tiers, but they are not so rmniiTous as formerl}'. —

From the advant.iges this country po-ssesses, it

bids fair to have an extensive commerce on .ad-

, vanfageous terms with most portsof the Pacific.

It is well calculated to produce the following,

which, in a few years after its settlement, would

become its staples, viz : furs, salted l)eef and jxirk,

; fish, grain, flour, wool, bides, tallow, lumber and

] ])erhap8 coal. A rea<ly market for all these is now

to be found in the Pacific ; and in return for them

sugars, cofl'ec, and other tropical productions, may

lie had at the Sandwich Islands — advantages that

jl few new countries iwBseas, viz : the facility of a

in ihe Rocky Mountains, the Oregon Territory,

111

market, and one that in time must become of im-
mense extent.

Manufacturing power. — This coimtry, it is
beUeved, affords as many sites for UMtcr power a*
any other, and in many phccs within reach of
navigable waters. The timber of the w-stern
section, to the south of '19°, is not so good as that
of the north. This is imputed to tlie ehmnte
being milder and more cnan jeablc. A great dif-
ference is found between tlic norlii and south
sides of the trees, Ihe one being of ii liard and
close grain, while the other is open and sponwy.

To the norlhof thepirallel of 19^, on Frizcr's
river, an abundnncc of fine timber, for spars of
any dimensions, is easily obtained.

There will always be a demand for the timl)er
of this country at high prices througliout the Pa-
cific. The oak is well adapted for ship timber, and
abundance of ash, cedar, cypress, and arljor vita),
maybe had for fuel, fencinj. Sec. ; and, although
the southern part of the midille section is desli-
tute of timber, it may be supplied from tlio eastern
or northern sections by water carriage.

Intercommunication would at lirst apjiear to
be diflicult between the dilFerent parts of the
country, but I take a different view of It.

Stock of all kinds thrive exceedingly well, and
they will in consequence always abound In
the Territory. The soil affords every advan-
tage for making good roads, and. In process of
time, transportation must become comparatively
cheap.

Settlements. — Tliey consist principally of those
belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, and
where the missionaries have establiseed themselves.
They are as follows : In the western section. Fort
Simpson, Fort Mcl/iughlin, Fort Ijaugley, Nis-
quatly, Cowelitz, Fort George, Vancouver, and
Umpqua ; Fort iSt. James, darbine, Alexandria,
('hilcothin, Kamloop's, (on Thompson's river ;)
Okanagan, ColvlUc, and Wallawalla, in the mid-
dle; and in the eastern, Kootanieand Fort Hall.
Fort Boise has lieen abandoned, as has also Kuima,
a missionary settlement on the Koos-kooske.

These arc all small settlements, surrounded by
pahsades, wstli bastions at their comers, enclosing
the houses and stores of the company, sufficient
to protect them against the Indians, but In no
way to be considered as forts. A few Indians
reside near them, who arc dependent for their food
and employment on them.

These forts, being situated for the most part
near the great fisheries, are frequented by the In-
dians, wlio bring their furs to trade for blankets,
&c., at the same time they come to lay in their
yearly supply of salmon.

Vancouver is the principal depot from wuion
all supplies arc furnished, and to which returns
arc made.

At Vancouver, tlie village Is separated from the
fort and nearer the river. In addition to its being
the depot of the Hudson's Bay Company, there Is
now attached to It the largest farm of the Puget
Sound Company, the stockholders of which arc
generally the officers and servants of the Hudson's
Bay Company. They have now farms In suc-
cessful operation at Vancouver, Cowelitz, Nisquul.
ly, Colviile, Fort Langley, and the Fualitino plains.
about 10 miles from Vancouver, all of which arc
well stocked, and supply the Russian post at >Sit.

ka, under contract, with a variety of articles
raised on them. They have introduced largo
herds and flocks Into the Territory from Califor-
nia, and during our stay there several thousand
head were im;'ortcd. They arc thus doing incal-
culable good to tht Territory, and rendering it
more valuable for fuiure settlers. At the same
tiific, this exerts an ii'flucnce in domcsticathig
the Fndions, not only b ■ changing their habits,
but food, and attaclnng them to a locality.

TliQ Indians of the Tei ritory arc not a wander-
ing race, as soiiic have asserted, but change for
food only, and each fiuecriisive season will ngeer-

' ally find tliein in their old haunts, seeking it.
The sctllemcnts eslabllHlied by the missionaries

. are at the Will anielle falls and valley, NIsqually

' and Clatsop, in the western section, and at the
Dalles, Wallawalla, J.npwtii, ami Chimekaine, on
the Spokan, in the'middlc.

I Those of the middle section are succeeding
well ; and although little progress has been made
in the conversion of the I adians to Christianity,
yet they have done much good in reforming some
of the vices and teaching B«inie of the useful arts,
particularlj- that of ngrlcultiire, and the construc-
tion of houses, which has h^d the effect in ainea.

! sure to attach them to the soil. The men now
rear and tend their cuttle, pb.nt their potatoes and
corn, which latter they excha.ige for buffalo meat
with those who hui . The squaws attend to their
household, and employ themselves In knitting and
weaving, which they have been taught. They
raise on their small patches corn, potatoes, melons,
&,e.. Irrigating the land for that purpose. There
are many villages of Indians still existing, though
greatly reduced In numbers from former estimates.
Populatiiin. — It Is extremely difficult to ascer-
tain, with accuracy, the amount of ;">pulation in
the Territory. The Indians change to their dif-
ferent abodes as the fishing seasons come round,
which circumstance. If not attended to, would
produce very erroneous results.

The following is believed to be very nearly the

I truth ; if any thing, it is overrated :

j Vancouveror Wasliington island 5,000

I From the parallel of 50" to 51° north... . 2.000

I Penn's Cove, Wliidby's island, main land

j (Shatchet trilxO G50

Hood's canal, (Suquaniish and Toando

i tribe)

I At and about Okancgan

Aliout Colviile, SjKikan, &c

[Willamette falls and valley

j Pillar rock. Oak point, and (^olumbla

j river

I Port Discovery 150 i

i Fort Townsend 70 > Chalams

New Dungeness...200 )

I >Vallawalla, including the Nczperces,

Snakes, &c 1,100

; Klllamouks, north of Umpqua 400

Cape Flattery and Queen Hythe to Point

(iranvillc, (Classet tribe) 1250

Black Feet tribes that make Incursions

west of the Kocky .Mountains 1,000

: Birch bay 300

! Frazcr's river (Neamitch tribe) 500

Chennoks 209

'Clatstops 220

i At the Cascadci 150

500
300
•150
275

301)

420

lid

f*rave\t in the Great Western Prairiet,

AttheDallei 250

Y'Akama river 100

UeChuto rivor 185

UinpqiiaH 400

Rogcr'H rivpr 500

KlamctH 300

Shastys 500

KallupugnH GOO

Nisqimlly aOO

CliikcliH ni.il riigct'a Sound 700

Cowclitz. or KlukutackH 350

Port Orchard 150

The whole Territory may bo cslinmlrd an eon-
taining 20,000. Of whites, CamuliniiH and hull'.
breedH, tlicrr are l)ctwrpn 700 and 800, of whom
about 150 are Americans ; tlie rest arc fcltlors,
and the officers and servants of the eompuny. —
The Indians are rapidly decreasing in all parts ut
the country ; the causes an; supposed to be their
rude treatment of diseases, and the dissipated
lives they load.

The white American ijopulation, ns far as I
Itave been able to judge of them, are orderly, and
generally industrious; although tlicy are, with
the eice])tion of the missionaries, men who have
led, for the most past, dissolute lives.

The absence of spirits, as long as it contiir ;oh,
will probably secure them from excesses. Very
much to tlu'ir credit, they have abandoned the
use of spirituous liquors, by consent of the whole
community.

I cannot but view this Territory as peculiarly
liable to the vice of drunkenness. The ease with
which the wants of man arc obtained, the little
labor required, and cons<;<iuent opportunities for
idleness, will render it so. The settlers of the
AVillamctte vidley have, with a praiseworthy
spirit, engaged to prevent the estaldishment of
distilleries, and there are, as yet, no places where
spirits can be Ixiught (to my knowledge) in the
'I'erritory.

It is highly creditable to the Hudson's Uny ('om.
pany, that on a vessel arriving on the coast with
some spirits on lioard, in order to prevent its intro-
duction, they have purchased the whole cargo,
while, at the same time, their storehouses were
filled with rum. They have, with praiseworthy
zeal, interdicted its bemg an article of trade, be-
ing well satisfied that it is contrary to their in.
terest, and demoralizing in its effects on all the
tribes and people with whom they have to deal,
rendering tliem difficult to manage, quarrelsome
among themselves, and preventing their success
in hmiting. Endeavors have likewise been made,
by the ofliccrs of the company, to induce the
Kussians, on their side, to adopt this example, and
do away with it as an article of trade, but liitli-
erto without success.

It no doubt has been one of the causes eflecl.
ing the decrease of the native tribes, as it was
formerly almost the only article of trade.

In the event of this IVrrilory lieing taken |)o».
session of, the necessity of eircumscribing the
\iBe and sale of spirits laimot be too strongly in.
sisted upon by legal enaclmeiil, Ixith to preserve
order and avoid expenw;.

As far as the Indians have come under my no.
tice, they are un inoffensive race, except those in
the northern parts. The deoredations commilled
on the whites may l)c traced to injuries received,
or arise from superstitious motives.

MiSHioNAliiEs. — Little has yet been elleeted by
them in christianizing the natives. They are
principally engaged in the cultivation of the mis.
sion far.ns, and in the care of their own stock,
in order to obtain Hocks and herds for themselves,
most of them having selected lands. As far as
my jHTSonal observation went, in the part of the
coimtry where the missionaries reside, there are
very few Indians to engage their attetitiou ; and
they seemed more oceujiied with the settlement
of the country ami in agricultural pursuits than
missionary luiH)rs.

When there, I made ])arlieular inquiries wheth-
er laws were necessary for their prtdcetion, and I
feel fully satistied that they recpiire iioiu! at i)resenl,
besides the moral code it is their duty toiiU'uleate.

The C'atholio iiortion of the settlement, who
fonn a largo majority, arc kept under good con-
trol by their priest, who is disposed to act in mii.
son with the other missionaries in the pro])er pun-
ishment of all bad conduct.

I cannot close this report without doing justice
to the officers of the Hudson Bay Company's scr.
vice for their kind and gentlemanly treatment to
us while in tlic Territory, and Ix^aring testimony
that, during all my intercourse, and in their deal,
ings with others, they seemed to be guided by but
one nilc of conduct Iiigldy creditable to them, not
only as businessmen, but gentlemen.

They afforded us every assistance that was in
their [siwer lioth in supplies and in means to nc
complish our duties ; there are many persons in
the country whn bear testimony to the aid and
kindness rendered them in their outset ; and of
their hospitality it is needless to speak, for it has
become proverbial.

To conclude, few |iortions of the globe, in my
opinion, arc; to be found so rich in soil, so diver.
sified in surface, or so capable of being rendered
the happy abode of an industrious ami civilized
eomnK.nity. For beauty of scenery and salu.
brity of climate, it is :ot suri)as»ed. It is pccu.
liarly adapted for an agricultural and pastoral
people, and no portion of the world beyond the
tropics can be found that will yield so readily
with moderate labor, to the icanti of mini.

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