58-59 
 57 
 
 G0-6iy 
 
 ttrl'Vlrrr InU 
 
 ^l'«liil'- 1 ^" 
 
 Kj-iATl 
 
 Mv. 
 
 T 
 
 ^,-lM>0 Ho. 
 
 H, n ('tut 1 <. .^a*"' 
 
 ^i.r.-'i'// . ,.,!)'' /" - ■W^-T^ 
 
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 K2:i?>^ ^'-'■•4 ^'^'"'^---^ i "'^ "^ 
 
 
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 TABLE or DISTANCES. 
 
 l.lvcrpuol to Ouetec 
 Qviebtc ■' % ttixouvcr 
 Liverpool " Halifax 
 
 3,047 * .Stall 
 2,463 " tUeci|.) 
 
 ■' " Yokohama ■*•''* 
 
 Vuiii»pu\cr to Sh 
 " " Aui 
 
OF THE 
 
 Connections fhom Atlantic to pacific 
 
 Atao marhlnc 
 by RED NUMBCRS thi tlluslrations in notatijrt ,r 
 
 CANADA Illustrated 
 
 WILLIAK Er^YCE. Publisher. Tcront 
 
 \ iHici.uVfV to >>itlM > 7.);U iiiili'S aif K. 
 
 UvtTpdul to Hcliu KuiiK -rui yin'hiT' M.tli'l mlllJ' 
 
 '■ lit iiu Kcuijf (cm Hiilifiixl 11. '.Ml " 
 '■ AiuklumUNVw Zculiuui) l:'.l'V- " 
 
 Li\tTiii>iil lu Sydnt^v (Au.-itraliu) I3.4r:i uiile; 
 
 " lion* KiinB('''a -Nt'>^ Y(U'k«iul 
 bau.Kmncisco) l-M»79 " 
 
 Llflerenct- in (avor Cunadinii Kovite 
 1,1 B8 miles. 
 
BRYC'.'S TOURISTS' ILLUSTRATED HANDBOOK TO THE CANADIAN DOMINION. 
 
 HISTORICAL 
 
 ADA ^^^^^* 
 
 ' t \. * DESCRIPTIVE 
 
 From Sea to Sea 
 
 C. MKRCl'lR ADAM 
 
 Author r.K "Tmr rNsvi.ivx \mk i n-Wi sr : ItsHisk.kv anh i is Tk,., iu.ks 
 
 KTf., KTC, KTC. 
 
 " I'lCll'RKSnl'K \f( SKOKA," 
 
 X^XJBLISHEIID ^^Y^'^i^Jri^Jl^^^ayc 
 
 / 
 
 BR-STOEl 
 
 (^ ™B08TR£ca ] 
 
TO THF. YOUTH OI^ CANADA 
 
 THE FOLI.OWINCJ I'AfiKS A 1< 1-: DKDICATKl) 
 
 in' tiih koi'k 
 That tiik'. .m\y A\v.\kk\ a j.ivki.ikr Interkst 
 
 IN IllH 
 
 I'ast and Presknt <ik Tiir.iR Country 
 
 And ^)t'i<:KKN iiii-; J)i:sirk in Form a Mork Imimaii-: A' qfAiNi'KN'ij 
 
 wnn ns Varied Beauty and Vast Resoi:rcks. 
 
 TonoNTo, Diccinbcr, lS.<vS. i IIK AUIHOK. 
 
 V.iilficil aiTitrdin^ to Act of tlio l';irli:iiiu lit of C':iii:ul:i in tlif vcur oiii- tiioiisund ri^lit lii'iiilri'd 
 :iiul tijr!ity-ii;;lit liv William Hi<v< k, in llic otlice of the Ministor of Ajfrii-iilture. 
 
 
/^ / //r/)f i C r/)/A . 
 
 ( r/// .V. / > >;; 
 
 'J.. 
 
 
 
 '^ • '' ^' ' '/ ///r / /r /rj r/ C r//u/r/r/. 
 
 ///./// 
 
 // 
 
 
 /./. 
 

 
 
;Ti;i\s^r OH Si^Ji''^^>^:i: ti^^ivivi or i «;. 
 
 1. irilifax. N. S. iln.iu the CitiKl.li. 
 
 •J. Ht. .Jdhii. N. H 
 
 ■M. Queen's Si|uarn, rul)li(; (Tiirileiiv, 
 
 Cliaiiottctown. I', i;. I. 
 ;;. Quebec 
 ri. Montreiil, the Ht. liawrmK.o Uivcr 
 
 H,ii<l N'iutnria Mridyc. 
 t'l. Moiitri'iil, (ircy Nunnery Cliaiiel, 
 7. Mmitreiil. IMiice D'Anues aiiil Ilii' 
 
 Moiiiitiiiii. 
 s. Ijachiiie Kii,i)i(1s,St. Lawrence Kivor 
 ;•. Winter Ice Palace. 
 \'). ToljOKKRuinK. 
 U. I'arlianu!ntHuil(lin(!H, Ottawa. 
 1-'. Library, I'ar'i iront Huildin^'s, 
 
 Ottawa, with Queen's Statute. 
 iJa. Hird's lOye View ot Kint,'stoii. 
 lil). Queen's University, Kingston. 
 1 !. Lake of the Thousand Islands, near 
 
 KiuRston. 
 1 1. International Hridj,'e,Niaf,'araUiver 
 1"). Toronto. 
 
 !(■. New Parliament Huild'KS, Toronto. 
 17. TorontoHt.andPo.stOmce, Toronto 
 IH. Niaf,'ara Falls, from (toat Island. 
 19. Whirlpool Kapids and Suspension 
 BridKe. 
 
 ^o. Winter Sictif, Xiajjara Falls, 
 
 ii, Xiaj^ara friiin Victoria Point. 
 
 iJ, City ipf < iiieliili. 
 
 25. Owen Sotiiul, 
 
 j|. C. P. U. Sle.iiiuT (Owen Sound fn 
 
 Port Artlmil. 
 J5. V. V. U. Crain Elevator, I'oit AVil- 
 
 liaiii, Lake Siiperif)r. 
 ii'i. Port Arthur (head of Lake Siiperior). 
 i-. KaKabeka Fails (near Pmt Artlnin. 
 a*?. Main Street, Winnipejf, Maiiitoba. 
 ill. TIolv Trinity C'lmreli, Winnipeg, 
 .^o. City Hall, Winnii)e^^. 
 if. Parliament Buildin;^s, Winnipt';^. 
 ,^j. l*f>sser Avenue, nranilon, Manitoba. 
 ,V;. Paeific F'spressarriviiitf at Hrandon, 
 3(. Orain Marl^ct, Brandon. 
 ,5.;. Indian with Traverse on the Plains. 
 30. Xorlh- West Indian Chief. 
 XJ. S<piaw with Patioosc on back and 
 
 Tepee (wijjjwam). 
 3''. Resrina, District of Assinilioia. 
 30. Medicine Hat. 
 ^n. Calj;arv, on the C. P. K. 
 
 ■\l. C.itnnore, the Tlni e Sisters. 
 
 ^i. Ilanff— C.P.K. llolel. 
 
 1;. Paiiff -Till Pool, lloi Sprinjfs. 
 
 M. I ttlil>rUljfeC:<.al Mines, .X. W. T. 
 
 4';. Xaturiil Moinnnents, K.icl.ies, N'.W'.T. 
 
 ■\''>. Kickin^f lliirs<! I'ass, lookiniC east. 
 
 47, Monnt Stephen, Rockies. 
 
 4S. Second Mount. lin, Beaverfool. 
 
 ('). West Side Mount.lin, Itnirer's Pass. 
 
 50, Olacier Uanije, from the sunnnit of tho 
 
 Kcickies. 
 
 51. Glacier Hotel and C. P. U. Station, 
 5.*. Kainloops ( Hiitisli Columbia.) 
 
 V,. Cis.v), C. P. K. Fhidge. 
 
 5;. Fraser Canon, showing' four tunnels. 
 
 5j. Suspension Hridije, Cariboo iJiver. 
 
 .:; '. Yale (British Cohnnhial. 
 
 57. Xew W; stmlnster, B. C. 
 
 5*5. Vancouver, B. C, 
 
 50. Canadian Pacific Steiitnei- \iiiIoa(]ini!» 
 
 tea from China. 
 60. \'ictriii:i, 1!. C, from the (^fovernmcnt 
 
 Buildiii;;s. 
 6j. Ksquinialt Dry Dock, near Victoria. 
 
TcDii^ii^erim^rjs. 
 
 r.\r, K 
 
 Iiitroditctory ., , 5 
 
 'I'lu; Mi'iiliiiiu Provinces '> 
 
 ILiIifux iiiul the Xova Scothi Pfiiinsuli 7 
 
 Olluu" riiiccs of Inti;ri>t in Nova Scotia 9 
 
 Windsor, Grand Pre and AnnapoHs Royal lo 
 
 St. John, Frc'dericton, and a Iluii Thronjjlj New Brunswick 1 1 
 
 The Hay of Cluik'ur and tliu Lower !jt. I.awrt'iici! if 
 
 tjiiflu'c, tlic Capital of the French Province v> 
 
 M ontrcal, the " Commercial " Capital of the Dominion iS 
 
 Ottawa, the Political CapiUil of the Dominion .'o 
 
 The Thousand Islands, and "Uunnin^ the Kapids " of the 
 
 St. Lawrence 21 
 
 The Falls ot Niagara 2 f 
 
 Toror.to, the Ontario Metropolis 2-i 
 
 V.KCV. 
 
 'I'lie Province of Ontario, and tlie Great Lakes .• ; 
 
 Hj the CJreat Lakes to the Far West ,5j 
 
 From Port Arthur to Winnipeg .v> 
 
 Winnipeg, the Capital of the Prairie Pr<>\ince ^ll 
 
 The Province of Manitoha and its Uesonrces |j 
 
 Over the Prairies to the Rockies- 
 is Winnipeg to Regina, tlie Capital of the Xortli- 
 
 Wcst Territories 1 1 
 
 3. Regina to the MounUiin Limits of the North- 
 
 West Territories ); 
 
 On "The Rackhone of the Continent " 50 
 
 Uritish Columbia and its Resources 5J 
 
 Throng Ij tlie I'raser Canyons to tlie Coast 5 ( 
 
HALIFAX N.S.( FROM THE CITADELj 
 
CANADA: 
 
 HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE, FROM SEA TO SEA, 
 
 By G. Mercer Adam 
 
 ^HE Canada of to-day, over whose wide-spread 
 v^ domain, from the Atlantic to tte Pacific, the 
 ,PA[lf patriot eye glances with pride, is a theme so 
 *lF vast and one which recalls (especially if the 
 tourist has the historic memory) so much of interest 
 in the drama of the past that the descriptive writer 
 may well feel embarrassed in the choice of material for 
 even a brief sketch of the main features of the country , 
 as he passes rapidly over the ground from sea to sea. 
 Here, on those rich Atlantic shores, from which the 
 iron highway sets forth to span a continent, the his- 
 torical student will recall the founding, amid its then 
 rude environment, of DeMonts' little Huguenot colony 
 on the Bay of Fundy. It lacks but a decade-and-a-half 
 of being three hundred years since then, yet within 
 that space of time how vast has been the change ! 
 How vast even has been the change since CanaLla, 
 which, as a group of confederated Provinces, has 
 just attained her majority, entered Confederation and 
 
 brought within her wideembrace the vigorous colonies 
 and contiguous Provinces on either sea, with the limit- 
 less stretches and Nature's boundless resources that 
 lie between. When the first Stuart King issued his 
 charter which gave the English rights in Acadia, and 
 his successor created the Order of Knights Baronets of 
 Nova Scotia, the whole continent was a wilderness. 
 Bit by bit it has been reclaimed from the desolation 
 of solitude, until what was once a veritable ^t-r^-rt incug- 
 iiita is now "a well-kenn'd land." Not without toil, 
 we may be sure, has this transformation been effected ; 
 but if the toil has been spent there is much to show 
 for the expenditure. Nor is the heritage un^-orthy of 
 the toiler. The Dominion of Canada has a territorial 
 possession out of which the Old World would form a 
 score of kingdoms. It has an area, roughly speaking, 
 of three-and-a-half million square miles, not including 
 the area covered loy the great lakes. In the ciiief lakes 
 of the St. Lawrence basin alone;, you could pui under 
 
6 
 
 CANADA: KROM SKA lO SKA. 
 
 water the wliole of lui^land, Scotland, and Wales; 
 while forty siuh kinj^doms, pi<;ced together, would not 
 cover the entire area of the Dominion. Only by such 
 meagre comparisons can one endeavour to form a con- 
 ception of the vastness of the country. < )f its natural 
 resources no adec^uate conception can he wll ^^ivcn. 
 
 ■ THE MARITIME PROVINCES. 
 
 i'lU -W-i were the e 
 
 vIVlIjjl witness, in the 
 
 f^^ANV were the encounters of which what we 
 Maritime Provinces were the 
 long conflict between the two 
 ■^i:'^>f=- great European nations that for a hundred 
 and fifty years strove for mastery in the New World. 
 In the Acadian wars, not only I'ort R(jyal (Annapolis), 
 Halifax, Louisburg, St. John, and other towns and 
 cities of the Maritime Provinces are identified with 
 the long struggle between the two races; but much of 
 the coast line, from Prince Edward Island, round Cape 
 Breton and the Nova Scotia peninsula, and up b )th 
 shores of the Bay of I'undy, has its historic sites 
 and landmarks, which preserve the traditions of the 
 years of international strife. In this respect, the old 
 Province of Acadia possesses greater historic interest 
 than does any other part of the continent, if, perhaps, 
 we except (Quebec, that " great red rock," which was 
 long the seat and refuge of the forlorn I""rench colony 
 in the St. Lawrence. It would seem as if the Frfnch 
 
 Crown set little store by its Acadian possessions, until 
 the establishment of the English in Virginia and their 
 (extension nortiiward brouglit them into collision with 
 tlie French colonist. The flames of enmity, once kin- 
 died, continued intermittc ntly to blaze and smoulder 
 for a century-and-a-half, until the fall of Quebec and 
 the final retirement of the IVench from the continent. 
 I'he first direct collision between the two nations in 
 .\ca(Iia was Argall's expedition from \'irginia, which 
 captured the. Fort and destroyed the French settle- 
 ment at Port Koyal. This occurred in 1G18. Then 
 came the expedition against the same beautiful land- 
 locked basin and frowning fort, seat out by Cromwell, 
 followed by thv Phipp's expedition from New England, 
 its reinvestment and recapture in the time of Queen 
 .\nne, when its name was changed to Annapolis; after 
 which Louisburg, with its extensive fortifications, be- 
 came the scene of conflict and the grim test of British 
 and colonial prowess. On the fortress o*" Louisburg, 
 the " Dunkirk of America," as it was proudly called, 
 the French expended thirty million livres, only to see 
 it fall with frightful carnage, first, before the assault 
 of ("olonel I'eperall's colonial levies, aided by the 
 British fleet; then, and finally, before Admiral Bos- 
 cawen's armada, assisted by the invincible brigades 
 of GeneralWolfe's command, who were soon to termi- 
 nate, on the Heights of Abraham, French dominion 
 in North America. 
 
ST JOHN N.B. 
 
queen's square public gardens, CHARLOTTETOWN P E.1, 
 
CANADA: I IU)\t S|;A K ) SKA. 
 
 As an incident of tliis strugjjle of races in Acadia, 
 we have that most pitiiul historical pendant, the Kx- 
 pulsion of the French Nentrals, with their helongings, 
 tr >ni the beautiful Basin of Mlnas and tlie land cele- 
 bratt-d in Longfellow's Eviingeinie. St(;rn was th:; 
 necessity for this banishment of the Aca Hans from 
 the reclaimed lands of Grand Pre; but tragic as is 
 the story, it is well to rememlier that the narrative 
 e nl odicd ?ri the poet's romance is not to be taken 
 for history. Other dramatic incidents connected with 
 the period of French occupation of Acadia— sucti, for 
 instance, as the long quarrels of the rival French Gov- 
 ernors, Charnissay and l>e La Tour, and the heroism 
 of the latter's noble wife —we might relate ; but this is 
 hardly the place, even if vve had the space, to deal 
 with history. We can make this passing allusion 
 only, and refer the reader who thirsts for historic 
 f.icts and the details of an enthralling story to the 
 Acadian annalists. Not always, it is to be said, will 
 the reader find the story of the rude beginnings of 
 tlie national life a soothing one; nor will he invari- 
 ably iind it pleasant reading. But, in the main lines, 
 lie will rarely find it dull. It is somewhat the fashion, 
 we know, to assert the contrary, and to speak deri- 
 sively of Canadian materials for a native literature. 
 Tiiis, however, has not been the attitude of American 
 writers; nor, in dealing with inany of the dramatic 
 incidents in Acadian history, have they failed to show 
 
 us how rich is the field for a native literature in Can- 
 ada. Take this whole Acadian country, steeped as it 
 is in the romantic and pictures<iue, with its couple of 
 centuries of history and tradition, with its grand sea- 
 shore views and blue land-locked bays, its lieautiful 
 rivers and fertile vales, its noble forests and mines 
 rich in every mineral, its great sea-pastures teeming 
 with fish, and a people busy, thrifty, energetic and 
 enlightened— and say that there is no field here for the 
 poet and romancist oc for the annalist and historian. 
 Only Ignorance, and wilful ignorance, will assert that! 
 
 HALIFAX AND THE NOVA SCOTIA 
 PENINSULA. 
 
 TI^ALIFAX in its foundation and later annals be- 
 Vr^\ ^"'^^'^ exclusively to the British period of Can- 
 ■\ ';^,'l adian history. In 1749, when the city was 
 •.V. vS founded by Governor Cornwallis, French em- 
 pire in the New World neared its fateful close. The 
 previous year, the Treaty of Aix-ia-Chapelle, which 
 brought to an end the War of the Austrian Succes- 
 sion, terminated hostilities between the French and 
 F^nglish in America, only to break out immediately 
 again, however, in the Valley of the Ohio, on the 
 ramparts of Louisbuig, and on the heights above 
 Quebec. 'Jhe opening of the Seven Years' War saw 
 the beautiful harbour of Halifax fiu.,d with the war- 
 
8 
 
 CANADA : I I!()M SI A K) SKA. 
 
 ships and tr.uisjvirts of tlio expeditions sent out by 
 I'ilt against l.onisburg and Quebec. Here also, 
 during the Revohitionary War, were gathered the 
 royal forces uiiich were launched with such ill-success 
 against the insurgent American colonists; and here, 
 too, after the war, streamed tlie ten thousand exiled 
 l.oyalists who sougiit in tlie wild«.;rness-\vilds of Xew 
 IJrunswick and >iova Scotia new homes for themselves 
 under the Old Flag. 
 
 Representative Government was established in Nova 
 Scotia in 175S, with Halifax as the Capital of the Pro- 
 vince. Nova Scotia front about this time also included 
 Cape lireton and what is now known as New J^runs- 
 wick. In the year 17S4, however, both of these ti'rri- 
 tories were organized as separate Provinces, Frederic- 
 ton liecoming, four years later, the Capit.tl of New 
 Jirunswick, with I'ort Sydney as the chief town of 
 Cape Breton. Jn iSao, the Island of I'ape ]>reton 
 was reannexed to Nova Scotia. I'rince Edward 
 Island (or what was then called the Island of Saint 
 John) on its cession in 1763 by France, became also 
 a part of the Province of Nova Scotia. In 1770, 
 however, it was made and has since remained, a sepa- 
 rate Province, with representation from 1S7J, when it 
 entered Confi-deratifyii, in the Dominion Parliament. 
 
 Approached from the sea, the appearance of Halifax 
 is very striking. Its spacious liarliour, supplemented 
 b) the great water stretches of the North Arm and 
 
 J3edford liasin, is capable not only of giving shelter 
 and safe anchorage to a great fleet, but is large enough 
 for considerable naval manoiuviing. As befits its im- 
 portance as the chit^f naval station of IJritain in the 
 New Worhl, the water approaclies to the city frown 
 with forts and batteries ; while tiie city itself is domin- 
 ated by a citadel, which crowns the elevaticm on which 
 the city lies, at a height of nearly joo feet from the 
 harbour. These military fortifications, which are on 
 McNab's and George's Islands, with the dockyard 
 and citadel, are well worth the tourist's inspection, 
 and vividly recall to the mind of the New World gazer 
 the miglit and prowess of ( )ld ICngland. The harbour, 
 which is open all the year rounil, is the summer head- 
 (juarters of the Imperial North .Vmerican Squadron, 
 and is also much freipiented by foreign men-of-war, as 
 well as by merchantmen, trading vessels, and ocean- 
 going steamers. Along the streets of the city lounge 
 the only British uniforms now to be seen in Canada ; 
 while from tlie citadel floats the only Imperial flag in 
 North America which is daily flung to the bree/:e by 
 British regulars. Ilalitax is practically the last mili- 
 tary foothold Eiigland retains on the continent of the 
 New World, though that foothold is yet a firm one. 
 
 In spite of its magnificent situation and beautiful 
 harbour, Halifax pn;sents but a poor appearance as a 
 town. There are a few fine edifices, including the 
 Province Building, in whicli ;ire the Legislative 
 
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CANADA I |{()M SI A lO Ml \. 
 
 9 
 
 Cliainbcrs and Library; thc» new Provincial liuild- 
 uif,', tlio joint home of the Post Offtcf, Custom llmisu 
 ainl Provincial Musuiini; with a number of cliurclics, 
 lanks and commercial and public institutions. J!ut 
 the town as a whole is disappointing?. Its popula 
 lation, moreover, is small and nnpniK'rt^ssive, The 
 main attractions of tlie place are tiie suburbs and the 
 pretty drives round the water front, with the fine view 
 presented by the harbour and the shipping, and the 
 glimpse of the ocean beyond. Dartmouth, a town of 
 about 5,000 population, is situated on the harbour op- 
 posite the city ; and a few miles south-east of it is Cow 
 Bay, one of the many fine inlets of the ocean resorted 
 to for surf-bathing and for its attractive marine scen- 
 ery. Along the North-West Arm are a number of fine 
 private residences, the houses of wealthy citizens, sur- 
 rounded by pretty ornamental grounds. 
 
 OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST IN 
 NOVA SCOTIA. 
 
 ^HERE are, as yet, no railway facilities for visit- 
 teSs ing the Atlantic ports of Nova Scotia, east or 
 ijf west of Halifax. These must be reached 
 "W either by stage, or viewed at a distance from 
 the steamers of the Boston, Halifax and Prince Ed- 
 ward island Steamship Line, or from those of the 
 Portland Steam Packet Company. The Boston Line,. 
 
 after reaching Halifax, proceeds north tast ward along 
 the coast to the picturesque (lut of (.'anso, entering 
 which it will conduct the traveller to Pic ton and its 
 great coal fields, thence to Charlottetown, the capital 
 of Prince lulward. At Pictou, the tourist, if he 
 wishes, can transfer himself to the boats of the C.ulf 
 Steamship Company, which have a weekly line on the 
 St. Lawrence, and so reach (,)uebec. At Port Hawkes- 
 bury, on the Cape P)r(!ton side of the Cut, connection 
 is made with the Intercolrjui.d system at Port Mul- 
 grave, tiuiice, by way of Anligonish and New ( Glas- 
 gow, westward. At Port Hawktsbury the tourist will 
 find facilities for traversing Cape Breton and enabling 
 him to visit the famed P>ras d'Or Lakes, Haddeck, 
 Sydney, and the historic site of Louisburg. This is 
 a trip, we need hardly say, which no lover of the 
 picturesque, far less the historical student, will fail 
 to take. In the other direction from Halifax, the 
 steamers of the Portland Steam Packet Company 
 make connection south-westward with Portland, 
 Maine, and the railroad system of the United States. 
 The tourist who designs to follow us to the I'ar West 
 through Canadian territory, may leave the seaboard 
 either by the International Railway via Truro and 
 Moncton, or by the Windsor and Annapolis Railway 
 via St. John, thence by a branch of the Intercolonial, 
 until he regains the main line at Moncton. Py the 
 form !r route he will be enabled, if he chooses, to take 
 
10 
 
 CANADA: lUOM SI, A TO SMA. 
 
 tin; ()vt:ii;in(l jouincN to llii: ports wliidi connect with 
 tin; islands of ('■ipo Itroton ami i'rince Mdward, and, 
 if .1 sportsman, to visit tin; marsh lands ronnd Col)*'- 
 (|uid l!ay, at tiic head of tin,' stormy waters of tiu; 
 i'.ay of I'undy. i>y llie latter route he. will deli^lit 
 himself witii a lool< at the historic shores of Miiias 
 i'.asin, C'irand I're and t!u; "Land of ilvaiigelini'. " 
 I'roin this classic ^^round tliere is railway connection 
 ihrou^li a comitry abounding' in liistoric and poetic 
 interest, to Aimapolis Kuyal, whence, a passage of 
 al)oiii (ivi! hours across the Bay of I'nndy, will hrin^^ 
 tiie tourist to St. John, ilie great niaritime port ot 
 New l^riinswick. 
 
 WINDSOR, GRAND PRE, AND AMNAPOLIS 
 
 ROYAL. 
 
 BlIE Windsor and Annapolis Railway has its 
 soutli-eastern terminus at Windsor Junction, 
 
 ^;:' 
 
 /ijljf on tl 
 ^^ fax. 
 
 the Intercolonial, a few miles out of Hali- 
 The run over to Windsor is without 
 interest, for the country, for the tnost part, is rough 
 and rocky. Approaching Windsor the aspect cliang(!S, 
 and the pretty little town breaks agreeably upon us, 
 with its noble river, the .\von — which, however, should 
 be seen only when the tide from the Jiay of I'undy is 
 full— and the beautiful Hasin of Minas beyond. Wind- 
 sor, besides its historic, lias for us an academic and a 
 
 personal interest. It is the seat (jf King's College, one 
 of the oldest educational institutions in Canada, hav- 
 ing a charter from (leorge III. graiUfnl .it the begin- 
 ning of tile century. It is also the old home of Judge 
 naliburton, the genial " Sam Slick " of earlv Provin- 
 cial days and the historian of Nova Scotia. 
 
 Wt: are now upon the scene t){ the tragic expulsion 
 of the .\cadians, which Longfellow has immortalizeil 
 in Evanticitnc , that p^jiuic romance— for it is not en- 
 tirely to be taken for history — which gilds the adjacent 
 meadows of (Irand I're and the fair Hasin (jf Minas. 
 " livangeline" shouul be studied with the " .Vrchives 
 of Nova Scotia" or I'arkman's "Montcalm and 
 Wolfe" as its historical commentary. If this is 
 done, the poetic descriptions of the peaceful, simple 
 .Acadian life of tlie time when tlie tragedy occurred 
 will be seen to be largely mythical. Hut whatever 
 license Longfellow has taken with the history of the 
 deportation of the I'rench Neutrals from (irand I're, 
 the district in which they spent their disatfecied lives 
 will be found in the main faithfully portrayed by the 
 poet, though, curiously enough, his eyes never beheld 
 the place. There, " in the fruitful valley," basking in 
 the afternoon sun, with " vast meadows stretched to 
 the eastward, giving the vill.ige its name," and dikes, 
 " shutting out the turbulent tides," lies the site of the 
 little village of Clrand Pre. There, too, in the dis- 
 tance, risfs tlie lofty J51,Tmidon ; while now and then, 
 
.. r^i 
 
 ' ..... li 
 
 
 — ft-;: 
 
 
 ■ywnufw-pjij^^ 
 
 rij;j^ . - 
 
 
 ■w ^-r 
 
 ^^•'V^. 
 
 MONTREAL, THE ST LAWRENCE RIVER fc VICTORIA BRIDGE . 
 
CANADA; IH()\r Si:\ TO SKA. 
 
 ix 
 
 aloft on the mountains, " sea-fo^'s pitch their tents and 
 mists frcni the mighty Atlantic" are daily pierced by 
 the noonday sun. 
 
 "Waste are those pleasant farms, and tlie f;irniors forever 
 
 departed I 
 Scattered like dust and leaves, when tlie mighty blasts of 
 
 October 
 Seize them, and whirl them alolt, and sprinkle them far o'er the 
 
 ocean. 
 Nannht but tradition remains of the beautiful village of Grand 
 
 Pre." 
 
 Few relics remain of the ancient settlement, save a 
 
 line of willows along the old roads, and a few gnarled 
 
 and knotty trees in the orchards of the rich meadows 
 
 which have been reclaimed from the sweep of the sea. 
 
 Near by is pointed out the place where the Acadians 
 
 were put on board — 
 
 " When on the fallip.!? tide the freighted vessels departed, 
 Bearing a iiition, with all its household gods, into exile. 
 Exile without an end, and without an example in stoi y," 
 
 The railroad from Grand Pre to Annapolis, the 
 ancient capital of Acadia, passes over the great apple 
 district of Nova Scotia, the fertile valleys through 
 which wander the Cornwallis and Annapolis rivers. 
 Annapolis, as we have seen, is the old Port Royal of the 
 times of Champlain, who founded l' onirc dc ban temps 
 as a diversion from the grimness and desolation with 
 which he and his Huguenot colony were surrounded 
 in this Acadian wilderness outpost of Old France^ 
 The town, which is built on a peninsula projecting 
 into Annapolis Basin, is pleasantly environed by a 
 
 range of hills which temper it from the sea-breezes, 
 and is therefore much frei[uented by summer visitors. 
 Its chief object of historic interest is the old fortress, 
 which fronts the Basin, and with its ramparts and out- 
 works covers an area of nearly thirty acres. Though 
 the works aredismantleil and the garrison has long since 
 marched out, the fortress is to-day still worth a visit. 
 
 From Annapolis to St. John, N.B., by steamer con- 
 sumes some live hours. The distance to Digby, at the 
 foot of Annapolis Basin, is seventeen miles ; from 
 Digby across the Bay of Fundy to St. John, is forty- 
 three miles. The sail down the Basin is delightful, 
 and one can imagine how it charmed Champlain 
 and Poutrincourt nearly three hundred years ago. 
 The summer passage across to St. John is usually a 
 pleasant one, though if one be not a good sailor even 
 the slight tidal swell will be a disturbing experience. 
 
 ST. JOHN, FREDERICTON, AND A RUN 
 THROUGH NEW BRUNSWICK. 
 
 La* ('#HE bustling citizens of the great maritime city 
 f4,, -S of St. John trouble their heads little, we 
 
 /'J 'It imagine, with Acadian history. Ihey are 
 
 "W essentially a modern people, and modern for 
 
 the most part is their city — the chief portion of St. 
 
 John having been rebuilt since the summer of 1S77, 
 
 when fire swept over the place, burning some two 
 
12 
 
 I AXADA lltoM SI. A lO SEA. 
 
 lum(lrL(.l acrus of its business ana and causing' a loss 
 of some twcnty-fno millions of dollars. Vet St. John 
 is not lackin}^ in history. Its site was known to De 
 Monts and C^hamplain, wlio visited it in lC'0.\, thoii^'h 
 it was not occupied until thirty years later. Here, in 
 iTjj.j, La Tour erectc;d a tradinj; fort, which for many 
 years became the disputed possession of the ri^'al 
 governors of Acadia, and the scene (jf the heroism of 
 the Lady de la Tour. The harbour also figures largely 
 in naval history, being the scene of many sharp 
 engagements between I'^nglish and French warships, 
 and between the latter and the armed ves.iels of the 
 spirited colonists of New iMigland. The forts ashore 
 have also a tale to tell of military daring in the vicissi- 
 tudes of the times, in the long conllict of the two 
 nations for supremacy in the New World. After the 
 Revolutionary War, to St. John came a British fleet 
 bringing 5,000 " United limpire Loyalists," who had 
 voluntarily exiled themselves to live under the old 
 Britisii flag. Even in modern history St. John has an 
 interesting military record as a garrison town, for 
 during the excitement incident to the Trent affair the 
 city was occupied for a time by the Grenadier Guards, 
 the Scots Fusileers, and other Jlite corps of the British 
 army. In 1862 the garrison, however, was withdrawn, 
 and St. John has since then taken to maritime and 
 commercial, ratiicr than to military, pursuits. For 
 this occupation its situation is exceedingly favourable, 
 
 and with its rival, Halifax, it lays claim (.0 the com- 
 mercial designation of " the Liverpool of Canada." 
 J'or this, like Montreal, it discards the ambition of 
 being the Provincial capital, and is content to see the 
 political carpet-bagger go higher up the river to play 
 in the lobbies of the Legislature his unclean game. 
 
 The City of St. John is now fast recovering from the 
 effects of the great fire. It occupies a commanding 
 situation at the mouth of the St. John River, and with 
 Carleton, its suburb, on the opposite side of the har- 
 bour, has a population of jo.ooo. Portland, a separate 
 municipality close by, brings up the census to a total of 
 nearly 50,000. The chief business thoroughfares of St. 
 John are King and Prince William Streets, on which 
 are erected many fine and substantial buildings. 
 Among these may be n.imed the Post Office, Custom 
 House, the Bank of New Brunswick, and, in another 
 part of the town, the Intercolonial Railway Station. 
 Spanning the St. John River, is a fine Suspension 
 Bridge, seventy feet high; and a short distance fur- 
 ther up, is a new Cantilever Bridge, which connects 
 the Intercolonial with the New Brunswick Railroad 
 and the railway system of the United States. Under 
 the former bridge are the Falls of the St. John River, 
 which have this peculiarity, that at ebb tide in the 
 Bay of I'undy the waters of the river fall fifteen feet 
 into the harbour, through a rocky chasm 500 feet in 
 width, wiiile at full tide the sea makes a like fall back- 
 
MONTREAL, PLACE D'ARMES & THE MOUNTAIN 
 
« ANA DA : 1 KD.M SI.A lO .^I.A. 
 
 13 
 
 ward into the stream. Tlie wli.irvtjs at all seasons of 
 tilt! year present a busy spectacle, and the city's 
 shipping trade and experts are increasing* annn;illy. 
 A iine vie..- ^i the harbour and city is had from 
 I-'nrt Howe, in the neighbouring municipality of 
 Portland. In the vicinity there is much picturesque 
 scenery and abounding sport for the lovers of rod 
 and gun. 
 
 The sail up the St. John to Fredericton, ninety miles 
 from St. John, is a pleasant one, but hardly calhnt; for 
 much description. The scenery is occasionally pretty, 
 mostly pastoral, and therefore restful and tranquillizing;. 
 The river now and then takes on a lake-like aspect, 
 \vh2re it spreads itself over the low lands, which are 
 more than ordinarily fertile. Fredericton itself 
 stands on a level plain, sho.ving much cultivation in 
 the vicinity, and displaying at one bend of the river 
 ("hrist Church Cathedral, a beautiful specimen of 
 i-"arly Gothic, and at another bend, Government 
 House, the residence of the Li'titenant-f iovernor. The 
 Parliament Building is a modest structure, containing 
 the two Legislative Chambers, an^l the Hall of the 
 Superior Court. Fredericton is the seat of the Uni- 
 versity of New Brunswick, whose charter dates from 
 iSjS. It is also attractive to spoitsmen as a rallying 
 point and base of supplies for the fine fishing and 
 hunting grounds of the Upper St. John. Lumber is 
 the principal e.\port of the city. 
 
 Leaving Fredericton to regain the main line of the 
 Intercolonial, the tourist can return either to St. John, 
 th'uce to Monclon, on the Peticodiac River, or go 
 directly northwards to Chatham Junction, by a local 
 line which in part follows the S.W. branch of the 
 Miramichi River. If a sportsman, he will doubtle.ss 
 prefer tlte latter course, so as to hasten his arrival in 
 the far-famed sporting grounds of the Miramichi and 
 the fine fishing regiim of the Restigouche. 
 
 The Miramichi district is still practically a forest 
 wilderness. Over the region, in 18.^5, a great fire 
 raged which burned about 8, 000 square miles of 
 wood, and destroyed a $1,000,000 worth of property, 
 besides occasioning large loss of life. The horror of 
 the time is still spoken of in the locality, for the 
 settlers and woodsmen engaged in lumbering opera 
 tions though taking refuge on logs and rafts on tht; 
 river, amid panic-stricken animal life swimming about 
 in all directions, were unable to escape and fell 
 victims to the devouring elements. On the river, near 
 its outlet in Miramichi Bay, there are two chief towns, 
 rival to each other, though six miles apart — Newcastle 
 and Chatham. The principal industries of both towns 
 are ship building and the exportation of fish and 
 lumber. In the district bear, moose and caribou can 
 be stalked, while partridge, plover and snipe are 
 abundant. In the bay there is also good bass, 
 mackerel, and cod fishing. 
 
14 
 
 CANADA I i;n>r MA ID M.A. 
 
 THE BAY OF CHALEUR AND THE LOWER 
 ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 ■a^?WlIIi next region of iiUt;rest, on onr way Qiiebec- 
 
 tJ t, wards, is the historic I?ay of Chaleiir, the 
 
 /;i ;f' Indian niiiucof \vhi( h sifjnifios "a sea of fish." 
 
 "^^ At ihe hcadof ono inlet of thcbay (tli{!S()nthi;rn) 
 is Bathnrst ; at tlie head of another (the western) is 
 Dalhousie. Both places have become great snmmer 
 resorts, and to both, in the season, tlock tlie enthusi- 
 astic sportsmen of Canada and the neif,dibonrin}» 
 States, with not a few Old Countrymen expert in the 
 use of the rod and gun. 
 
 The historical and legendary interest connected with 
 the Bay of Chaleur is great. II(;re Jacques Cartier 
 put in, in the summer of iHjt, when on his first explor- 
 ing voyage to the New World. Here, in the noble 
 estuary also, towards the close of the French occupa- 
 tion of Canada, came a J^ritish fleet, nnd(!r Commodore 
 T^yron, grandfather of the poet, to attack the French 
 war vessels that lay in the Bay, take them captive, and 
 silence the batteries of a fort situate near the mouth of 
 the Kestigouche. Here, too, is the scene of the Massa- 
 chusetts legend, comm(;morated by the Poet Whittier, 
 of Skipper Ireson's misdeed, in having 
 
 — "Sailed away 
 From a Icnking ship !ii Chaleur Hay,— 
 Sail(!(t av.-ay frotpi a ^inki'in wierk, 
 Willi lii^ null tfjwii's |)coi)lc t):i liir (teck !" 
 
 — a misdeed which earned for him the maledictions, 
 with tarring and feathering, of the irate fisherwomen 
 of Marblehead. In the region are to be found rem- 
 nants of the great Micmac nation, who ouce densely 
 peopled the coast, from Cape ]5r( ton to flaspe, and 
 who were well nigh decimated by the invading hosts 
 of the M<jhawk tribe, just ten years before the Hurons 
 were all but exterminated by the Iroquois. In the 
 Nepisignit River, which empties into Bathnrst harbour, 
 there is good fishing; and twenty miles up the stream 
 are the Grand I'.dls, which attract lovers of the pic- 
 turesque, and in the neighbourhood of which are many 
 beautiful pools, the fisherman's elysium. In the river, 
 trout from four to seven pounds weight and salmon 
 up to thirty pounds are to be found. The forest 
 about also abounds with all kinds of game. The 
 Indian name of the Bay of Chaleur signifies, as we 
 have said, " Sea of Fish," and it is fully justified, for 
 schools of mackerel and sea trout disport in its waters, 
 with other variety of fish, the catch of which is not 
 uncommonly a hundred an hour! 
 
 Dalhousie vies with Bathurst in its attractions for 
 the sportsman. It is beautifully situated at the mouth 
 of the Kestigouche River, surrounded by hills which 
 screen iL from the winds, and from which magnificent 
 views of the Bay of Chaleur and the picturesque coast 
 line of the region may be had. In the famous " Inch 
 Arran House," it also possesses th;it attraciion which 
 
LACHINE RAPIDS, ST LAWRENCE RIVER 
 
r.WADA. 1 IIO.M tsKA K) M.A. 
 
 IS 
 
 is rtlisluil l>y thi)so who si-ek in a first-class hutel tho 
 iiulispensabii- adjunct to comfortable siiinnu-riiif^ by 
 thu sea. It has moreover splendid facilities for boat- 
 ing and bathing, as well as for the occupation of tho 
 Nimrods and I/.aak Waltons who resort to it for sport. 
 At Campbellton, at the head of deep-water navigation 
 on the Kestigouclu!, wo arrive at the boundary which 
 separates tiie rrovince of New Jirunswick from the 
 Province of Quebec. From Sugar Loaf Mountain, 
 near by, a beautiful view presents itself of the scenery 
 of the district, which is rugged and "aried, and from 
 which one can discern the (iaspc McHiiitains, in the 
 distance, and the noble estuary of Chaleur, gleaming 
 in the sunset at one's feet. Thirty miles from the bay, 
 the Restigoucho receives the waters of the Metapedia 
 Iliver, flowing down from the Metis Mountains in 
 Quebec, and one of the finest fishing grounds in the 
 world. Close to the junction of the two royal rivers 
 is Metapedia station and "Eraser's," now the head- 
 quarters of the " Kestigouche Salmon Club." Here 
 the Intercolonial spans the Kestigouche by a fine bridge 
 over a thousand feet in length. In the Metapedia 
 and its tributaries, salmon-fisliing becomes a royal 
 sport, for here, so'ne years ago, H. K. H. the Princess 
 Louise landed one forty pounds in weight, while the 
 scales have been tipped by the catch of others equally 
 fortunate, at fifty-four pounds ! On the Casrapedia, 
 some distance eastward, towards tin- Gaspe district, 
 
 even better fishing is to bt; had, and on that now 
 famous stream is the fishing-lodge of Ilis E.xcellency 
 the C.overnor-deneral. 
 
 Leaving the valley of the Metapedia, the ne.xt 
 important stations we come to on thi; Intercolonial are 
 Little Metis and Kimouski. The tourist will now be 
 aware, by the speech that reaches his ear, and by the 
 picturesijue garb of the linliitttns, that he is in the old 
 French Province. Little Metis is the most easterly 
 and seaward of the many delightful watering-places on 
 tht! Lower St. Lawrence; and, besi(l(;s its attractions 
 asa sumnusr resort, it has in the Little Metis river and 
 in the lakes of the region special attractions for the 
 sportsman. Geese, duck, and sea-fowl are to be found 
 on the coast, while inland, caribou and other large 
 game are to be met with. At Kimouski, where the 
 ocean-going steamers of the Allan line receive and 
 land Her Majesty's mails, there is also good sport, 
 Kimouski Kiver being noted for its salmon and trout. 
 A little way up the St. Lawrence from Kimouski is 
 Hie, and a little way below it is Father Point, an 
 important telegraph and signal station for the ocean 
 steamers. 
 
 Continuing our way Quebecwards, we come to 
 Cacouna, the "Saratoga" or " lirighton " of Canada, 
 as it is frequently and admiringly called. It is the 
 chief summer resort on the St. Lawrence of the fashion 
 of Quebec, Montreal, and of not a few of the cities and 
 
16 
 
 CANADA: FROM SKA '!<> MA. 
 
 towns of th(j Western Province. The town is situated 
 on a beautiful bay, with a fine beach, some two miles 
 from the railway station, and possesses in the "St. 
 Lnwrenci; II.iH" an 'otel capable of accommodatini,' 
 over 600 gui IS. Six miles up tho r-'vcr, is aiiothi r 
 and attractive resort, Kiviire dit Loup, situ.ited n( .ir 
 the continence of the river of that name with the St 
 Lawrence, Tlxre are charminfi vi<!ws, walks and 
 drives about the place; and steamers make it a placo 
 of daily call fur Murray Bay, Tadousac, and the far- 
 famed Sa^nenay River, on the opposite side of the St. 
 Lawrence. Here the tourist should break his j(iunie\- 
 to "do" the Saf,'uenay, the chief tributary of the 
 Lower St. Lawrence and the gloomy outlet of the cold 
 waters of Lake St. John. Few sights in Canada arc; 
 more grand and awe inspiring than this grim river, 
 chasm-cleft throuf,'h the heart of a mountain wilder- 
 ness. " The awful majesty of its unbroken mountain - 
 shores, the profound depth of its waters, the absence 
 of life through many lea;;uesof distance, have made 
 the Saguenay unique among rivers; and it is yearly 
 visited by thousands of tourists as one of the chief 
 curiosities of the Western World " The distance from 
 Riviere du Loup across the St, Lawrence to Tadcusac, 
 at the mouth of the Saguenay, is twenty-five miles, 
 and from Tadousac toChicoutimi, at the head of deep- 
 water navigation on the river, is ninety miles The 
 trip from Rivit-re du Lou']i :\n>\ return consumes the 
 
 best part of two days, If jireft;rre(l, the tourist can 
 make the trip by tri-weekK boac^ fiom Quebec. 
 Murray Jiay on the north shore of the St. Lawrence, 
 and Kamonraska on the south, are both attractive 
 watering-places on tlie way up tu Quebec, Following 
 tin; railway on the sout 1 shore, we beijin now to pass 
 a continuous line of settlements, often prettily situ- 
 ated on ba>s and inlets of the river, the bright tin- 
 roofed spires of the parish churches glittering in the 
 setting sun, At last we reach Levis, opposite Quebec, 
 the tourist's eye being delighted and his heart made 
 expectant, by preliminary glimpses from the car of the 
 great historic city of the New World, its proud citadel, 
 its shipping in the harbour, and the beautiful panorama 
 of the St. Lawrence and the grand river front. 
 
 QUEBEC, THE CAPITAL OF THE FRENCH 
 PROVINCE. 
 
 HE tourist, as he lands at Quebec and ascends 
 j^<ij its steep streets to the citadel, will think him- 
 •'"■'lO self in one of the quaint walled cities or for 
 'W^ tresses of the European continent, and set 
 back in the world's history to some period in the 
 Middle Ages The city is a survival of the past; an 
 interesting, dried specimen of one of the half monastic, 
 half military towns of Old France in the days of the 
 Gttnid Moiiavjui'. Tt is curious to think of it, here 
 
PARLIAMENT B U ILDl NCS , OTTAWA , 
 
Ut 
 
 QUCCN t 
 
 UNIVtRIITlf,KIN0»rON ^^ ^ 
 
 
 BIRDS EYE VIEW OF KINGSTON. 
 
I A.\.\l».\ ; lltO.M SI. A lO SKA. 
 
 17 
 
 swept aside, as it were, in the cnlni eddies of t'le 
 onward current of modern civilization and dominant 
 democracy, which has surged over the continent — it 
 alone preserving in the New World the manners, cus- 
 toms, laws and institutions, with much of the speech 
 and dress, of an Old World people in a feudal a^'e. 
 And how full of memories is the (juaint old place 1 
 Discovered by Cartier three hundred and fifty years 
 ;v^o, founded by Champlain three (Quarters of a cen- 
 tury later, the place still preserves the traditions and 
 maintains much of the civil and relii^ious character of 
 their early time. 'J'he fur trade, it is true, has disap- 
 j)eared, and with it the Indian trapper and woodsman : 
 but the French race remains and Nourishes, and with 
 it Mother Church and the ecclesiastical system whi( h 
 founded and reared the Gallic colony. Nor has the 
 'great red rock," though shorn of its trees and their 
 ni my-tinted foliage, lost much of its old-time char- 
 acter. Since the days of ('artier and Donacona, it 
 has taken on, it is true, a military aspect, and from 
 Its frowning fortifications Frontenac defied and Mont- 
 calm succunibel to an enemy; but its scenic aspects 
 are still grandly the same — the same noble river Mows 
 by it, and the same old Laurentian ranges encircle it. 
 (juebec abounds in monuments of the "old regime," 
 ihough many interesting relics, such as the ancient 
 :; ates of the city, ar(; bm'ng replaced by modorii struc- 
 tures and are yielding to the necessities of a later civil- 
 
 ization. Not a few, however, of the old landmarks 
 remain, and the chief of these should be seen. One of 
 these is the J>asilica (formerly known as the Cathedral 
 of Notre Dame), founded in t()06 by Bishop Laval, 
 but destroyed by Wolfe's batteries at the Conquest 
 .iiid rebuilt thereafter. Another relic of interest is 
 \(itrc Dame dcs Victuircs, built on the site of Cham- 
 plain's " Ahitation de Qiichc'c," and which stands in 
 the market-place of the Lower Town. The Jesuits' 
 College, the Seminary of (Quebec, F^aval University, 
 the Ursuline Convent, the Hotel i);en Convent and 
 Hospital, are all places worthy of inspection by the 
 tourist. The Anglican Cathedra!, the Parliament 
 Uuilclings, Morrin College, and the new Post Office, 
 will also attract the visitor. But the Citadel and the 
 ramparts, the JCsplanade, and above all, Dufferin 
 Terr.ice, w ith its spacious promenade on the brow of 
 the precipitous cliff, and its magnificent view of the 
 harbour and river, will be found the chief attrac- 
 tions. There is hardly in the world a nobler outlook 
 than that from the terrace, which is the favourite 
 promenade of the citizens. From here may be seen the 
 busy wharves and gleaming river, the fortilied bluffs 
 of J'oint Levis, opposite, and off in the distance the 
 Laurentian peaks, with, nearer hand, the Charles 
 River, Isle of Orleans, ,ind the Falls of Montmorency. 
 Delightful is the drive to the latter, and to Beauport 
 and the suburban villages which enrich the environs 
 
!•! 
 
 CANADA; IIJOM SI. A lO M:A. 
 
 of Quebec. Tlie Ileiji^hlsof Abraham, with the tnonu- 
 nient to Wolfe, will not fail to attract the hi^Jtorical 
 student. 
 
 The space will not permit our lingering at Quebec. 
 The journey to Montreal may be made by one of three 
 routes; by steamer on the river, by the North Shore 
 Railway, or liy tlie (irand Trunk. We leave the 
 traveller to make his choice, and hasten on with him to 
 
 MONTREAL, THE "COMMERCIAL" CAPI- 
 TAL OF THE DOMINION. 
 
 ycj 
 
 r^V 
 
 HE fine natural situation and metropolitan 
 appearance of Montreal, which ranks as the 
 first city in the Dominion, will be admitted 
 by all who visit it. Its massive and busy 
 wharves, its thronged thoroughfares, its spacious pub- 
 lic squares and substantial stone buildings, with " the 
 Mountain," rising 700 feet above the river, and having 
 fine, broad streets and numerous palatial residences 
 on its terraced slopes, combine to give it the palm over 
 the other cities of the Dominion. Dike Quebec, its 
 foundation dates back to an early period in the French 
 occupation of Caiiada, and to-day its population is 
 largely of French origin. The city, which is situated 
 on an island at the confluence of the Ottawa and the 
 St. Dawrence Rivers, was founded in 1642, after a 
 solemn religions service, by the Sieur de Maisonneuve. 
 
 On tliat occa^iion, the Indian name (llochelaga) which 
 it had previously borne was superseded by that of 
 "Ville Marie." Later on it took the name of Mon- 
 treal from Mount Royal, the piciuresque eminence 
 wliich crowns the city, and from the charming drives 
 .about which many beautiful views of the town, the 
 noble river, and the country in the vicinity may be 
 had. The evidences of the racial and ecclesiastical 
 origin of Montreal will be noted by the tourist on all 
 sides. Not only are two-thirds of the present inhabi- 
 tants French, but French, in the main, are the civil 
 and religious institutions of the place. Here Mother 
 Church has her special and almost exclusive pre- 
 serve. In every (juarter of the town you will find 
 her churches, hospitals, convents and other places of 
 religious retreat ; while on almost every thoroughfare 
 are to be met the black-robed representatives, male 
 and female, of her various ecclesiastical and eleemosy- 
 nary institutions. The real estate -owned by both 
 orders (Jesuit and Sulpician) of the Church, in this 
 paradise of the Roman priesthood, is enormous. The 
 chief churches of this communion are the Parish 
 Church of Notre Dame, tlie Cathedral of St. I'eter 
 (now in course of erection), the Jesuits' Church, St. 
 Patrick's, St. James, Notre Dame de Lourdes, de 
 lionsecours, and de Nazareth. Architecturally, most 
 
 of tliese are fine edifices ; while some of them 
 
 notably the Jesuits' Church, Notre l)ame de Naz- 
 
INTERNATIONALBRIDGE, NIAGARA RIVER 
 
(AN ADA I I!) »M SI. \ In M.A. 
 
 19 
 
 areth and Notre Daino clc L()urdc;s— are attractive for 
 the beautiful frescoes on their walls and their artis- 
 tic decorations. This deiioininatinn is also rich in 
 many educational and charitaMe institutions, situated 
 in various parts of the city. Many of the hospitals 
 and nunneries supjuirted by the ("hurch will be found 
 worth a visit. The chief of these are the Hospital of 
 the Grey Nuns, founded in 1755, the Hotel ])ieu, 
 founded in 1^)44, and the Semin."t-y of St. Sulpice, 
 founded in 1^)57. Besides these, there are numerors 
 sisterhoods, asylums, schools, theological and secular, 
 and other agencies of the Church, in and about the 
 city, which further manifest the zeal and devotion of 
 this denomination. 
 
 Considering the limited English-speaking and Pro- 
 testant population of Montreal, the churches, colleges, 
 schools, hospitals and other institutions of the Pro- 
 t(;stant denominations, are by no means few or unim- 
 portant. The number of churches, indeed, is large of 
 the principal Protestant bodies, such as the ICpiscopal, 
 Presbyterian, Congregational, and Methodist denomin- 
 ations, and many of their edifices are handsome and, 
 as a rule, beautifully situated. Without being invidi- 
 ous, one may point especially to Christ Church Cathe- 
 dral, for as fine an example of church architecture as 
 the city can boast. Each of the more prominent 
 denominations has its own theological college. The 
 chief institution of .«!erular learning is McCjill Uni- 
 
 versity, which was founded b» Koyal Charter in 1821. 
 It has four separate faculties, one e.aeh in Arts, l.aw, 
 Medicine, and .-Vpplied Science, lour th<K)logical co!- 
 h'ges in tin; city, and two arts colleges out of Montreal, 
 ar(' in affdiation with McCiill. The Art Association of 
 Montrerd is an active and tMitliusiastic body, and has 
 a permanent eshiiiition in the (libb Art Crallery, which 
 the visitor should not fail to see. The scientific ele- 
 ment is largely represented in the city, and possesse;; 
 a museum, library and lecture hall, which may also 
 attract the visitor. Montrealers, proverbirdly, " go 
 in " for out-of-doors sport, and the winter season 
 brings out in unusual activity a large number of 
 associations for curling, skating, snow-shoeing and 
 tobogganing. One of the great winter attractions of 
 the city is the periodical Ice Carnival. The drives in 
 and about Montreal, and around Mount Royal Park, 
 should be "done" by the visitor, whether the season 
 be winter or summer. Their beauty, and the delight- 
 ful views to be had en route, will well repay him for 
 the troublt! and the modest amount expended upon 
 them. The Victoria J]ridge, whicii spans tin; St. 
 Lawrence at Montreal, can perhaps best be seen from 
 the M(nintain ; or, if the tourist prefers a closer view, 
 he may take a suburban train to Lachine, and from 
 there run down the rapids by steamer, passing under 
 one of the immense piers of the bridge. The river 
 trip w ill be found a wild and exhilarating experience. 
 
20 
 
 C WADA ; IKOM SI;a 'I< » Si:A. 
 
 OTTAWA, THE POLITICAL CAPITAL OF 
 THE DOMINION. 
 
 /Cl 
 
 1^ 
 
 'O reach thu Capital of the Dominion from 
 Montreal, the tourist has the choice of two 
 routes, one by land and one by water. 'I lie 
 railway rout(; thither, over the line of tiic; 
 Canadian Pacific, which lies alon<' the north or One- 
 bee side of the Ottawa River, is now an easy journey 
 of some four hours. The route by steamer on the 
 Ottawa will occupy a pleasant summer day. If time 
 is no particular object, the latter route will be found 
 an enjoyable one. I>y it tiie tourist will traverse an 
 interesting section of the great water highway to the 
 West, which used to be taken by the adventia-ons 
 explorers, trappers and missioners of the old French 
 retinue, when hardly any white man knew what perils 
 lay beft)re him in the path of the setting sun. The 
 lower reaches of the Ottawa are identified with many 
 tragic events in Canadian history, in connection with 
 inter-tribal Indian forays, and with the raidings of the 
 Iroquois upon the I'rench voyageurs and colonists 
 settled about the inouth of the river. The massacre 
 at Lachine, which occurred in 1C89, when the fortunes 
 of France in the New World were at the lowest ebb, 
 and the defence in 1660, by Dollard des Ormeaux, 
 with sixteen young Frenchmen, of a fort on the 
 Ottawa, near Carillon, attacked by 800 Iro(]Uois, are 
 
 two memorable incidents in Canadian annals con- 
 nected wiih tl.e Ottawa. The .scene of the; latter is 
 pointed out as the Thermopyla; of Canada. 
 
 Passengers l)y the Ottawa boat usually board the | 
 steamer at Lachine. Leaving the latter, and fTossing 
 Lake St. Louis, St. .\nne isscjon reached. Near by are 
 the rapids of St. Anne, famous as the scene of the poet 
 Moore s Canadian boat-song, " Row, Brothers, Row! " 
 Beyond St. Anne lies the Lake of the Two Mountains, 
 passing through which the steamer enters the river 
 proper. But space will not permit our giving an itin- 
 erary of the route, so we rejoin the tourist at Ottawa. 
 
 At Ottawa, the traveller who has accompanied us 
 thus far up from the .sea, will make his iirst acquaint- 
 ance with the barge and impo tant Province of Ontario. 
 Though the Capital of the great Canadian Doininion, 
 Ottawa is as yet a city in embryo — a corp.paratively 
 new and outlying town on the rough border-land of the 
 Province. Its importance is wholly political. Aside 
 from that, and for the moment keeping out of view the 
 magnificent pile of the I^irliament Buildings, flanked 
 by the Departmental Offices, the place has hardly 
 earned yet a higher appellation than that joco.sely 
 given to it, of an " Arctic lumber village. ' Up to so 
 recent a date as 1S57, it was known as By town, a 
 name which it owed to a Colonel By, of H. M. Royal 
 Engino^ers, who was the constructor of the Rideau 
 Canal, v.hich connects the St. Lawrence and thi; 
 
u. 
 
 TORONTO, 
 
TORONTO STREET & POST OFFICE, TORONTO. 
 
CANADA I KOM M.A TO SI;A. 
 
 SI 
 
 Ottawa. This here reaches the river by a series of 
 locks having a clrcjp uf til'ty feet. Tin; name of the 
 ( ity was cliaiiged to Ottawa when ilcr Majesty, in 
 < ompliance with an acUlrcss from both I louses of the 
 ranadi.m I'arHament, maile selection o( the site as 
 itie permanent Capital of the then united Provinces 
 of Upper and Lower Canada. At Confederation, it 
 l)ecaine the Capital of the Dominion, and liere were 
 erected, on the elevated pl.iteaii which overlooks the 
 Ottawa River, the group of magnificent buildings 
 occupied by the Houses of Parliament, the Library of 
 Parliament, and the State Departments, which consti- 
 tute the chief orn.inKnt alike of the city and tin; I'ro- 
 \ince. These noble buildings, which ar(' among the 
 iinest on the continent, and which have certainly no 
 aichitectural superiors, as examples of Italian-Gothic, 
 will, of course, absorb the attention of tiie visitor to 
 Ottawa, Let him not neglect, however, when he has 
 linished his inspection of the buildings, to take a 
 ramble along the rim of the bluff on which they stand, 
 and view the river far below, with the fretted waters of 
 the Ottawa plunging wildly over the Chaudiere Falls, 
 and tiie i)eautiful expanse o*' country that stretches 
 afar off into the French Province. With the excep- 
 tion of the view from the ramparts of Quebec, the 
 one now before the visitor is the finest in Eastern Can- 
 ada. In the suburbs of the city is Rideau Hall, the 
 residence of Hi? Hy.cellency, the Governor-General. 
 
 At Ottawa, the Western tourist has again a choice 
 of routes, the selection of either one of which must be 
 determined by himself. If he wishes to reserve his 
 tour through Oiit.irio iinli! he has seen the North- 
 West, he may g(i thither direct by way of the Upper 
 Ottawa and Lake Nipissing, and afterwards return tt) 
 tlif I'rovince, entering it from the West. If his object, 
 howevt.T, is to go as early as possi' le to Toronto, the 
 Provincial Capil.il, he may go str, light there by the 
 C. P. R., or take the (Jrand Trunk to Prescolt, on 
 the St. Lawrence, thence westward either by boat 
 or rail. If the choice be by boat, the tt)urist will 
 have tiie opportunity of passing tlirough the famed 
 "Thousand Islands," which gem the waters of the 
 Upper St. Lawrence. 
 
 THE THOUSAND ISLANDS AND "RUN- 
 NING THE RAPIDS" OF THE 
 ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 1^^ ICRH APS no greater pleasure can be experienced 
 i '^ yi bv tile visitor tu l^astern Ontario, than is to be 
 M([)l got frcjin a sail from Kingston, through the 
 •'C Thousand Islands, and down the rapids of the 
 St. Lawrence, to Montreal, if this trip is taken, the 
 tourist had better go directly by rail from Ottawa to 
 the city of Kingston, and there board one of the daily 
 ste-amers of the Roy.il Mail Line, plying between 
 
82 
 
 CANADA I'UO.M SI.A lO MA. 
 
 TDronto and Montreal. In tlio old historic city of 
 K infusion tlu; loiirist will fiml sul(ii:iciU to inlcrnst 
 him (luring lus briit visii. It nctiipu s tlw; sit<! of I'ort 
 I'rontenac, or Cataratiiii, as i.u: Indians called it, wliit li 
 l)layed a promiiu m paii in (lie i'lrrudi rtunnr. Ilrrc 
 I. a Salic, the discoverer o{ tlie Mississippi, built and 
 launched tlu; first vessel to sail on the waters of 1 .al;e 
 Ontario. iHiriiu; the War of i8ij, Kingston rose to 
 importance as a lUitisli naval station and the chief 
 dockyard and arsenal on ihe ('.inadian shores of the 
 F.ake. l"'or a time after the union of the two older 
 iiritish I'rovinci;s, it was also the seat of the Canadian 
 Ciovernment. The chief objects of present-day intertst 
 ill Kingston are ihi! Koyal Military College and (.hu'CMrs 
 University, an important and flourishing institution in 
 connection with the i'resbyterian Church. 
 
 Jioarding the Montreal steamer, an all-day sail of 
 unusual interest and keenest pleasure lies before the 
 tourist in the descent of the St. l-awrenci-. Almost 
 at sunrise the steamer leaves Kingston, and, passing 
 two Martello towers, enters the noble river and im- 
 mediately begins to thread the labyrinth of the far- 
 famed Thousand Islands. These are scattered over a 
 length of nearly forty miles from Wolfe's Island to 
 Hrockville. The islands vary in size, form, colour, 
 and general aspect, assuming an infinity of shapes and 
 tints. There are .about i.Soo of them, Wolfe Island, 
 containing ij.ooo acres, Ixnng the largt^st ; the s'.nailest 
 
 scarcely affording room as a resting-place for Cinder- 
 ella's foot. Some arc covered with the brightest ver 
 dure, others mere barren peaks of rock. Many of the 
 mo^t beautiful have been purchased by private individ 
 n.ds not a few being .\meriians who havi; erected 
 on tliein charming summer houses and made the 
 place gay with flags and bunting. The entire channel, 
 or lake, as we may call it, abounds in sport — fin 
 and feather. The Thousand Isles, however, can be 
 appreciated only by the eye; every description we 
 have yet read fails utterly to give an id(a of their 
 ex(piisite beauty. We shall not add another to the 
 list ; but pass on to the rapids. JJelow I'rescott wi 
 enter upon the first of the series, the "running" ol 
 which constitutes such an exciting pleasure to all 
 visitors to th(; St. Lawrence. The trip has one vain 
 able feature readily appreciated by all. It combines 
 the ma.ximum of exhilaration with the minimum ol 
 danger. These rapids are surmounted, for v<Misels 
 ascending tiie river, by a series of canals constructed 
 and recently enlarged at great expense by the Canadian 
 Ciovernment. The descent by lockage is over 200 feet 
 The first of the rapids is called the Callopes, fr(jm an 
 island of that naini', then tiit! I'l.it, followed by the 
 S.inll, increasing in force, but yet only preparing us for 
 tin; longer and more swift dt scent not far brlow. 
 
 We now reach the first of the more remarkable 
 descents in the bed of the St, Lawrence, and must 
 
NIAGARA,HORSE SHOE FROM GOAT ISLAND. 
 
 NIAGARA FROW, VICTORIA POINT. 
 
n. 
 
 .^Jft;;"*"*'^ 
 
 1 *J^ mj_ 
 
 
 ■Jr^'), 
 
 -.- ■»? drr^ ft 
 
 -V*»> 
 
 CITY OF GUELPH 
 
CANADA IKOM Sl-.A lo M. \. 
 
 23 
 
 T, 
 
 t string our nerves before " shooting " the Long Sault, 
 ' nearly nine miles in length. The steam is siiut oft", and 
 bnt for the exertions of the helmsmen, the boat is at the 
 nurcy of a current flowing at the rate of fifteen or 
 twenty miles an hour. This " going down hill by 
 water " the traveller will find is most exciting. At 
 times the stream glides smoothly in its descent ; at 
 iithers the waters have a light for it, lashing each 
 other, like the waves of the ocean, into a fury, and 
 tnssing the spray upward athwart the bow of the 
 vessel. The deck is an inclined plane ascending 
 from stem to stern, but there is little swaying mo- 
 tion, and tliere is little to alarm the most ner%'ous, 
 escept an occasional thump forward, caused by a 
 sudden plunge in the descent. The wheel-house of 
 the vessel is extra-manned, and, in addition, the 
 tiller at the stern, not used in ordinary waters, 
 assists the wheel. Where two channels meet, at 
 tlie end of Cornwall Island, the rapids give us a 
 parting salute in one chaotic struggle, known as " the 
 Big Pitch." 
 
 Passing the town of Cornwall, the river views are 
 exceedingly fim;. Westward are the tempestuous 
 waters of the Long Sault, dancing and eddying abt)iit 
 the i.slands ; eastward, the smoother surface of Lake 
 St. Francis, flowing almost imperceptibly seaward, as 
 if the wat(>rs were ashamed of the angry scene through 
 which they had lately passed. Just where the turbu- 
 
 bulent waters of the Long Sault begin to pass into the 
 calm of St. Francis, at the village of St. Regis, parses 
 line 45" north latitude, the boundary line between 
 Canada and the United States. Thence to the sea 
 both sides of the river belcMig to the Crown of Creat 
 Britain. The enlargement of the river, in Lake St. 
 I'rancis, owes its formation to the vehemence of the 
 waters of tlie Sault, which has scooped it out like a 
 basin, twenty-live miles long and from five to six in 
 breadth. But our limited space will not permit us to 
 continue, with any detail, the rest of the exciting 
 journey. The other rapids met with are the C!oteau, 
 the Cedars, the Cascades, the St. Louis and the 
 Lachine. These increase in violence on their head- 
 long course down the river, while the trip becomes 
 more exciting, as great masses of rock rise as if to 
 block the way, and the channel is hidden in spray. 
 Our picture of the Lachine Rapids (S) is no exag- 
 geration, but a faithful sketch of the thrilling situa- 
 tion. To add to the grandeur of the scene, the 
 magnificent Victoria Bridge now opens upon the 
 view, and, dashing on under it, the steamer proudly 
 rights herself in calmer waters and is soon at her 
 moorings in Montreal. 
 
24 
 
 CANADA. 1 lioM M.A It) MA. 
 
 THE FALLS OF NIAGARA. 
 
 \'K need not biacket any nei^^lilxjiirin^' city or 
 sij^lit with tlie I'alls of >;iaj,'ara -tlie mecca 
 . „ .'' of every visitor to the New WOrUl. T!u;ir 
 >• 'i-'^'- i naii.e fills the inoutii, as the si^(ht ol them 
 fills tlie inirul and heart, of every spectator of their 
 tiirillin}^ beauty and awe-inspiriiij; inajesi\ . Nor need 
 we linger at Montreal, to tell liow the traveller shall 
 rind his way thither. It will suilice to say, that he 
 will of course make for Toronto, thence, either by rail 
 round the head of Lake Ontario, or by steamer across 
 the Lake, to Niagara. The "Clifton House "is gen- 
 erally the objective point of every tourist, as the hotel 
 directly faces both the American and Canadian I'aUs, 
 and from its windows and verandas an admirable view 
 of the incomparable scene may be had. 
 
 To the local guide-books wt; must refer the \isitor 
 to this stupendous natural wonder, which annually 
 attracts myriads of peo})le from almost every country 
 and clime, including not only the rapt admirer and 
 awe-worshipping beholder of Nature, but the unim 
 pressible holiday- idler or the scurrying traveller, who 
 profanes the memory of the place by hastening oU 
 incontinently to rec(jrd in print liis shallow, immature 
 impressions and cheap moral reriections. P>iu tin; 
 work of no scribbling poet or effusive penny-a-liner 
 can stale the majesty of Niagara. ILappily, of late, 
 
 the cheap shows and vulgar trattic, as well as the in- 
 famous traps for the unwary traveller, which used to 
 disgrace the neighbourhood of the Falls, are now, 
 thanks to ( iovernnieut interference, removed, and one 
 can enjoy undiiiurbed the full beauty and grandeur 
 of the sctfue. (ioat Island, the visitor will observe, 
 parts the waters of the Niagara Kiver into two mighty 
 streams, the one, the smaller, falling over a straight- 
 lined mass of limestone rock, and the otlnr, the 
 larger, sweeping with a thund<:rons noise over a hol- 
 low-curved ledge, int<j the great chasm below. The 
 former is named the American Falls; the latter the 
 Morse-Shoe, or Canadian, Falls. Both should be seen 
 from the American, as well as from the ('anadian, 
 bank of the river ; and ;i handsome suspension bridge, 
 which spans the great cauldron into Vvhich the waters 
 are precipitated, gives facility for viewing them from 
 cither side. The view from the Canadian side is the 
 more grand and comprehensive; while that from the 
 American side gives a more vivid and perhaps lasting; 
 impressicm of the massive force of the headhmg cur- 
 rents. The inagniruent race of the rapids, above the 
 I'alls, should also be .seen by the visitor. This can be 
 viewed both from the bridge which connects Goat 
 Island with the /\meric,aii shore, and particularly from 
 the islands, called tin; "Three Sisters," which lie a 
 little way above tin- Horse-Shoe Cataract. The; intre- 
 pid sight-seer may .also delight himself with views of 
 
23. 
 
 C.PR STEAMER (OWEN SOUND TO PORT ARTHUR) 
 
 
 
 OWEN SOUND. 
 
( AVAOA; lRf)\f SEA TO SKA. 
 
 2ft 
 
 the Falls under Uie arch of waters, as they sweep over ! 
 their projecting ledges of rock— if ho cares to trust 
 himself, enveloped in oil-sl:in suit, to tliecare of trusty 
 guides, who will explore with him the awesome " Cave 
 of the Winds" and "Cave of Thunders." A visit to the 
 I'alls, if practicable, should also bo made in winter, 
 when they are, to some extent, in the grip of the Ice- 
 King. When the winter is a severe one, the spectacle 
 is often surpassingly grand. A view of the river below 
 the Falls, in the neighbourhood of the Whirlpool, will 
 also repay the visitor, even if he contents himself with 
 a momentary glance at it frnm the carriage-way under 
 the railway Suspension Bridge. While in the neigh- 
 bourhood, a visit by rail to Buffalo, at the mouth of 
 the Niagara River, and which is here spanned by the 
 fine structure of the International Railway Bridge, 
 may be taken advantage of by the visitor. It will also 
 repay him to visit Brock's Monument, on the historic 
 ground of Queenston Heights, famed in the annals 
 of the War of 1S12. From this beautiful elevation, 
 a magnificent view may be had of the windings of 
 the Lower Niagara River, of the fine fruit country 
 around, and of the waters of Lake Ontario in the 
 blue vista. 
 
 TORONTO, THE ONTARIO METROPOLIS. 
 
 t^ LITTLE more than two hours pleasant sail 
 across Lake < )iitario will conduct the touri.^t 
 i from the Niagara River to Toronto. "The 
 •*'t^ yueen City of the West," as it is proudly 
 called — unlike (Quebec, Montreal or Ottawa — is no 
 city set upon a hill. It lies on a flat plain, with a 
 rising inclination to the northward, and covers an 
 area of about twelve square miles. It has a spacious 
 harbour, screened from the lake by a fine, island 
 fender, a delightful summer resort of the citizens, and 
 on which may be seen nuiiibt:rless pic»ures(juc cot- 
 tages, and, witliin its enclosure, every species of craft 
 gliding about in the bay. Beyond the wharves, ris ng 
 up from the busy sliorofront, are over two bundled 
 miles of branching stnets, which intersect each oth^r, 
 generally at right anvles, and in which "live, move 
 and have their being, ' nearly a hundred and fi/ty 
 thousand souls. The ch.iel streets devoted to retail 
 business are King and (Jueen, running parallel with 
 the bay and a few blocks north of it, and Yonge Street, 
 cleaving the city in twain and extending to its northern 
 limits. The portion of the city occupied by the large 
 wholesale houses, the banks, financial institutions, 
 loan and insurance companies, the Ciovernment and 
 municipal offices, lies adjacent to the water-front. 
 Close to the water-front, also, is the general railway 
 
26 
 
 CANADA : 1 UOM SKA H) SKA. 
 
 ti.iniinus. The residi-nlial part of the city li(!S chiefly 
 to thi; north and west of the business section, and is 
 utrll set-off and orn.iinentcd by neat villas, rows of 
 detached or semi cietachtcl houses, with boulevards, 
 lawns, and fine shade trees. 
 
 A hundred years af^o, the whole of the now fair Pro- 
 vince of ( )nt,irio was a lorest wilderness, and Toronto 
 was unknown, save as a small J'rench trading-post. 
 In 17031 its foundations were laid by ( iovernor Simcoe- 
 tlu! lirst administrator of the i'rovince, who also made 
 it the Provincial Capital. The name which he then 
 gave it, and by which it was long known, was Little 
 York. In 1S34, it was incorporated as a city, when it 
 assumed the Indian appellation which it now bears — 
 of Toronto. W hen it rose to the dignity of a city, it 
 had a population of less than 10,000: to day its popu- 
 lation, as we have said, is close upon 150,000, and the 
 value of its taxable property amounts to a hundred 
 millions. Its stritles in p<jpulation, in the value of its 
 imports and amount of ratable property are matched 
 by its growth and development in other directions, 
 and by the status to which the city has risen as the 
 great mart and distributing centre of industry and 
 commerce. To it, the rich Province of Ontario, with 
 not a little of the great North-West, is tributary. It 
 has become a v.ist commercial emporium, a great rail- 
 way centre, the literary " hub " of the l^ominion, the 
 inecci of iiiurists. an I'.pisi-op.al .ind .\rrh-]'".piscopal 
 
 S(!e ,and thi; ecclesiastical headcjuariers of numerous 
 denominations, the seat of the Law Courts, the I'ro- 
 vincird Legislature, thtj universities, collegt.-s, ami great 
 schools of learning. In additKjU to all these, it has 
 also become a most attractive place of residence. 
 ISesides its varied modern life and its commercial and 
 intellectii.il activities, Toronto is not lacking in an 
 historic past, and, as antiijuity goes in the New World, 
 it has not a little to feed and to gratify the historic 
 memory. Into this, however, we cannot here go ; nor 
 have we space to deal in any detail with the city's 
 sights. All we can do is to indicate, briefly, its chief 
 attractions, and to refer the visitor to the fuller local 
 sources of information. 
 
 The chief buildings that will strike the eye of the 
 visitor, as he drives through the business portion of 
 the city, will be the public oliices of the DcMuinion 
 Ciovernmeiu, the Post Othce (see illustration), ami the 
 Custom Hou.se; the banks (and, notably, the branch 
 institution of the Hank of Montreal, and the head 
 ohices of the Canadian liank of Commerce); the 
 pal.'Uial offices of the great Insurance, Loan and 
 Financial Companies ; the homes of the leading news- 
 papers; the m.my tine hotels and clubs, and the mas- 
 sive marts oi industry and commerce. .\t present the 
 Legislature, the Local and County Courts, and the 
 municipal machinery, are all poorly housed; though 
 new P.irliamcnt i'nildings, of an imposing character 
 
8S 
 
 -J^-'lt^ 
 
 mmiB 
 
 .f':m-'^ 
 
 mi "i^ 
 
 IB *i rat* tf •' T 
 
 
 PORT ARTHUR I HEAD OF LAKE SUPERIOR) 
 
CANADA: IKoM SKA lO SIA. 
 
 27 
 
 ,-ind worthy of the I'rovince, are now in course of 
 erection in the Queen's I'ark ; while anew site, cen- 
 trally situated, lias recoiitly been ac<iuired for a hrind- 
 ^;jiiij Cuy I Lill and Court I !(jusf. The city's churclios 
 are many and bt^autiful, the diMiominatious seemiiiKly 
 vying with each other as to wliich of them shall adorn 
 Toronto with the most costly edifice. Without int ur- 
 riniii the charge of invidiousness, we may be permitted 
 to name what may be taken as the (inLst buildings of 
 each of the chief sects: St. James' Cathedral (ICpisco- 
 pal), St. Michael's Cathedral (Koman Catholic), St 
 Andrews' (Presbyterian), the MiHropolitan Chur> li 
 (Mctliodisl), Jarvis Street (Baptist), and College 
 Avenue (C'ongregational). In all, the number of the 
 city's churches exceeds one hundred and twenty, 
 exclusive of mission houses, and the headquarters and 
 branch barracks of the Salvation Army. 
 
 Next to the churches, the educational institutions, 
 and notably the National University, are the pride 
 and glory of Toronto. In St. James's Stpiare, are 
 situate the I'rovincial Education Department, the 
 Museum and Art Kooms, and the Normal and Model 
 School Huildings. Here are the headquarters of tlie 
 educational system of Onta"io, presided over by a 
 Minister of Education, wlio is also a member of the 
 I'rovincial Executive. In the (,)ucen"s Pari<, beauti- 
 fully approached by a mile of chcsnut trees, which 
 flank the College Avenue, is the University and t'ollege 
 
 of Toronto. This grand Norman pile is justly consid- 
 ered the fl<jwer and climax of Toronto's architecture, 
 and ranks next, in imposing beauty, to the Parliament 
 Mnildings, Ottawa. The University is gdverned by a 
 Chancellor and \'ice-Cliancellor, with tlie members ol 
 the Senate and Convocation, The affairs of University 
 College are directed by a council, composed of the 
 President, Vice President and the Profe'ssorial staff. 
 There are ten professors attached to the College, be- 
 sides a number of lecturers and tutors. Afhhated 
 witii the University are the theological colleges of the 
 Koman Catholic, the Presbyterian, and tlie P.aplist 
 communions, and the Evang(;lical section of the 
 Anglican Church. Victoria University, the Metho- 
 dist training institution, is about to remove from 
 Cobourg to Toronto, and to be affiliated with 'Toronto 
 University. New buildings, on a new site, for Upper 
 Canada College, are under construction for this old 
 and historic educational institution. The Anglican 
 Communion have, in Trinity University and College, 
 a fine academical insiit.ition and training school in 
 arts, medicine and divinity. It stands in a park of 
 twenty acres, with a background of romantic beauty, 
 in the west end of the city. The great law courts of 
 tlie Province, and the library and convocation hall of 
 the I, aw Society of Upper Canada, are nobly housed 
 in Osgoode Hall, one of the 'hief "show places" of 
 the city. 
 
2B 
 
 CANADA: ll{f)M SKA 'lO si-,.\. 
 
 THE PROVINCE OF ONTARIO AND THE 
 GREAT LAKES. 
 
 KFOKIC the trav(.MliT sets out to maku coiuit'c- 
 ^. tion witli tlu; tliroii'^h liiu- of tin; ("I'K. for tlio 
 J) l"ar Wist, lie will nodnnl)! wisli lo set! a littli; 
 'i«' iiioro of the rich rroviiice of ( )ntario than his 
 visit to tliu l'"alls of Niai,Mra and to Toronto will have 
 permitted. 'J'lui gi'0}^rai)liiral position of Ontario, the 
 mcjst sontherly of the i'rovinccs of tlu; T)oniininn, as 
 the tra^ eller will observe from the map, j^ives it a 
 t,'reat mlvanta^e, in an econornical point of view, over 
 the other Provinces within the ("onfideration. It has 
 another and an important advantage, also, in the 
 proximity of the jjreat lakes, by which it is parti)- snr- 
 roinided, and which not only modify its climate, but 
 materially ct)ntrihute to its trade and commerce. It 
 will be seen, moreover, that the i'rovince is largely 
 intersected by railways, which have given a great 
 impetns to trade and facilitated settlement, besides 
 being an important factor in its civilization. lUit that 
 part of the l'ro\ ince from the Ottawa to the l>etroit 
 Rivers, and from Lakes Erie and Ontario to lake 
 Huron and the Georgian Bay, is not all of Ontario, 
 though it is its chief cnltival)le and populated area. 
 It extends westward, along the north shore of the 
 great lakes, to the Lake of the Woods, adjoining tiu' 
 I'rovinct! of Manitoba; while its iio.t'.iern bonndai\ 
 
 is James H.iy and .Mbany Kiver. Within tlies(! con- 
 fines, its area is .ibout j.'o.ocx) .sijuara miles, or nearly 
 tv.o-tliirds the are.i of Hrifish Columbia, the largest 
 of the I'rovinces of the 1 >ominion. The pojiiilation of 
 ()ntario is in tlie neighbourhood of two millions, a 
 lair showing, it will be .idmitted, for a territory bO 
 much of which has but lately been opened up, and the 
 whole of which, a hundred years ago, was an unbroken 
 wildenu'ss, 
 
 Ontario owiss its first settlement by l''urf)peans to 
 what are termed the United i'".mpire Loyalists, a de- 
 voted band of Kritish colonists who left their honns 
 in the revolted colonies and sought a resting-place 
 under the old (lag, chielly in New Brunswick and in 
 Upper Canada. After the Revoluti(Miary War about 
 Vj,ooo of these Loyalists cam*' into the British .\meri- 
 caii I'rovinces, nearly a tiiird of that number se-ttling 
 on the Upper St. Lawrence, in and about Kingston 
 and the Bay of Quinte, in the Niagara region and 
 along the Petroit Ri\cr. To them, in the main, fell 
 the lot of first subduing the forests, and of bringing 
 the rich tracts of virgin land in what was then known 
 as Upper Canada nnder cultivation. The trials and 
 privations of those Loyalists and the other first settlers 
 in the I'rovince form a pathetic incident in its early 
 annals. But stont hearts and willing hands accom- 
 plished mnrli, .and despUe harassing and impeding 
 ivents, such as the War of tSi,^ and the lont; sirngi'lo 
 
no. 
 
 MAIN STREET.WINNIPEG 
 
CANADA: FHf)M Si: V 'lO Si:\. 
 
 fid 
 
 for self government, the Province was rapidly wrested 
 from the tyrany of Nature and made to become a fair 
 and fertile possession. 
 
 The work of opening np the country was, naturally 
 enough, at first slow ; yet settlement was added to 
 settlement, town to town, and in the latter stages of 
 its development — particularly after the advent of tiie 
 railway era — city was added to city. The industrial 
 and social evolution of Ontario, especially within the 
 last half century, is so remnrkable as to be almost 
 without a parallel in the history of the communities 
 of the New World; and it is so gratifying a circum- 
 stance that its people may well point to it with pride, 
 its progress so far is a good augury for the future, and 
 should inspire its people with increasing hope and con- 
 fidence. Nor is its progress alone material. Education 
 has done great things for Ontario; and the Province 
 can boast of a degree of public intelligence and an in- 
 tellectual and moral status as high as, and probably 
 higher than, the average among the poeples of the 
 Old World. Tliis statement, the visitor to the Pro- 
 vince will find a matter of easy verification, eithe * by 
 an inspection of the schools, by a study of the news- 
 paper and periodical press, or by actual contact with 
 the people. 
 
 Of the material progress of Ontario the visitor will 
 no doubt want to see something ; and a tour through 
 tlie Western peninsula, taking in the cities of Hamil- 
 
 ton, St. Catharines, Brantford, GuelDh, St. Thomas, 
 Stratford and London, will be helpful in forming 
 opinion. I'.ach of these cities may be said to have its 
 own individuality and to represent, in some measure, 
 the industrial characteristics (jr agricultural capabili- 
 tii'S of its own region. St. Cathariiu-s is finely situated 
 in the centre of the Niagara fruit district, and is the 
 ( Iiief town in what may truly be termed the garden of 
 (^i.nada. Nature has ham very bountiful to the region, 
 for it is famed as a i\na grape aiul peach-growing coun- 
 try ; while the city itsijjf is a great resort for invalids. 
 At St. Catharines something v» ill be seen of the Wel- 
 land Canal, that magnilicent artificial waterway which 
 connects Lake Erie with Lake Ontario, and which has 
 been constructed to facilitate navigation impeded by 
 the Falls of Niagara. Hamilton, which its citizens 
 have designated the " Ambitious City," is beautifully 
 situated on P>urlington liay, the "Fond duLac"of 
 early French exploration in Lake Ontario. The 
 busy, thriving i:ity lies prettily between the Bay and 
 that portion nf the Niagara Escarpment that trends 
 north-eastward from the Niagara Kiver to the Georgian 
 Bay, known historically as Burlington Heights. It is 
 the fourth most populous city in Canada and is a large 
 manufacturing centre. For many years it was the 
 I eadquarters of tlie Great Western R. R. of Canada, 
 now incorporated with the Grand Trunk system. A 
 drive or stroll up to "The Gore," the fine public 
 
80 
 
 CANADA: l-'KOM Si;,\ lO SEA. 
 
 gardens in the heart of the city, will cnahlo the travel- 
 ler to see something of the enterprise of Hamilton. 
 Proceeding westward, one of the finest views ni the 
 Provnice, that of the Dundas Valley, may be had 
 from the railway on the way to Brantfurd. This, the 
 county town of iJrant, is situated on a slope o\erlook- 
 ing the Grand J'iiver. Both county and town com- 
 memorate the name of Joseph Brant, the Mohawk 
 chief who so valiantly fought for Britain during the 
 Revolutionary War, His remains rest at a Mohawk 
 village in the Indian reservation, not far from ]>rant- 
 ford. On the reservation is a chapel which possesses 
 a communion service of silver, donated by Queen 
 Anne. In the city itself, there has recently been 
 erected a splendid monument to the memory of Brant. 
 Continuing our way westward, London, or as it 
 has been irreverently called, "London the Less,"' is 
 shortly reached. It is the county town of \.idd!esex, 
 and one of the instances of rapid and yet substantial 
 growth to which C\anadians point with pride. It has 
 all the natural advantages that could be desired for a 
 city save the vicinity of navigation. This lack is 
 partly atoned for by the iine agricultural country 
 which surrounds it and which is tributary to its im- 
 portance and wealth. Picturescjuely placed upon a 
 "bluff," overlooking the Valley of the Thames, Lon- 
 don is worthy of a visit for its scenery alone. A 
 cockney would find himself at home here, so far as 
 
 names are concerned. He could go along Piccadilly, 
 Regent Street, or the Mall, and could cross tiie Thames 
 either by Blackfriars or Westminster Bridge. London 
 is a cathedral city, bmng the seat of the diocese of 
 Huron, and it has a theological seminary and several 
 educational institutions in connection with the Epis- 
 copal Church. The public buildings of the city are 
 for the most part neat, and occasionally imposing. 
 They are chiefly situated on the city's principal 
 arteries, Richmond and Dundas Streets, the latter, 
 like Yonge Street in Toronto, however, being merely 
 the urban portion of a main post road. On these 
 principal arteries of the city, are also to be found the 
 leading churches, among the more notable of which 
 are the Anglican C.urch of St, Paul, the Roman 
 Catholic St. Peter's, the Scotch Church of St. James, 
 and the Methodist (."hurch on Queen's Avenue. 
 
 Branching off southward, in the direction of Lake 
 tLTie, is the thriving city of St. Thomas, which has 
 recently come into note as a railway centre. It is 
 reached from London by the London and Port Stanley 
 R.R., and is on the main line, westward to Detroit, of 
 the ("anadian Paciiic and Michigan Central Railways, 
 by the latter, it has also direct communication with 
 Buffalo and the East. St. Thomas is the seat of Alma 
 College, and of an excellent Collegiate Institute, one 
 of the hundred secondary schools of the Provincia! 
 educational system. 
 
■^ 
 
CANADA : FROM SKA TO SKA. 
 
 SI 
 
 About midway between St. Tlioinns and the Detroi: 
 Ivivcr, i.s Chatham, the county town of Kent, in the 
 nt'i^'hbourhood of tiie St. Clair flats. The flats cover 
 an area of about forty sCjUare miles, "occupied by 
 lagoons and river-islands, forminj^ the paradise of j 
 wild duck and the elysium of the sportsman." The 
 population of Chatham is rather heterogeneous in 
 character, about 500 being of French extraction, the 
 remnants of the old Gallic rule, which has also left 
 traces in the local topography of this county and of 
 the neighbouring county of Essex. There are, more- 
 over, several hundreds of Germans in the town, and 
 as many negroes, the descendants, in the main, of 
 those who escaped into Canada during the slavery 
 regime in the United States. 
 
 On the Detroit River, at the end of the Province, is 
 Windsor, a neat but .small Canadian town, which is, 
 however, overshadowed by the American city, Detroit 
 — its great rival across the river. Detroit, as its name 
 indicates, is of French origin, and has more than 
 once been the scene of sanguinary passages at arms. 
 The early history and varied fortunes of this outpost 
 of civilization have not: yet met a fitting historian. It 
 is intimately associated with Canadian history in both 
 French and English periods. The story of French 
 exploration and adventure — the abortive siege by 
 i'ontiac, foiled by the Ojibway girl who disclosed the 
 scheme — the contest with the French and their Huron 
 
 allies — the rather precipitate surrender to IJrock by 
 Hull — the recapt'.re by the Americans, with all the 
 romantic incidents of the;ie struggles (partly told by 
 Charles Mair, the Canadian poet, in liis drama of 
 Tcciiiiisf/i), would form a most attractive chronicle. 
 
 Our rapidly contracting space, we regret, will not 
 permit our sauntering further over the Provmce. We 
 must at once get back to Toronto and se'. out on the 
 overland journey to the Pacific. Before returning to 
 the Capital, the traveller should however see, if pos- 
 sible, some of the other cities and towns in the heart 
 of the Peninsula. Woodstock, Ingersoll, l^erlin, St. 
 Mary's, Stratford, and Flora, are all thriving towns 
 (Stratford, indeed, is now a city), each being noted 
 for its special industry. Sarnia and (Joderich, on 
 Lake Huron, and some of the growing towns east of 
 Toronto, such as Bowmanville, Cobourg, Port Hope, 
 Jielleville, Peterborough, and Lindsay, should also be 
 seen by the traveller. 
 
 Gait, an important woollen manufacturing town on 
 the Grand River, and Guelph, on the Speed, which 
 joins the Grand River at Preston, should not be over- 
 looked by the tourist on his way back lO the Provincial 
 Capital. Both Gait and Guelph are closely identified 
 with the novelist, John Gait, the author of Lawrie 
 Todd, who, about sixty years ago, was their founder, 
 when he came to the Province as the agent of an old 
 country land syndicate, fimiliarly known as the Can- 
 
32 
 
 CANADA: lltOM SKA lO SKA. 
 
 ad a Land Company. The "Royal City "of Giielph, 
 named by Gait in compliment to the ruling Hanoverian 
 family, is pre-eminently a farmer's town, and th(3 
 chief seal in tlic I rovince of agricultun; [see ilhistra- 
 tion]. It is situated in the choicest of the grain- 
 growing and pasturage lands of Ontario ; and here, 
 naturally enough, is located the Provincial College 
 of Agriculture and Experimental Farm. The town 
 itself is handsome, with more tlian a fair share of fine 
 buildings, public and private. It has the usual supjily 
 of mills and factories, schools and churcht^s. As th(^ 
 centre of a rich grain and grazing country, its market 
 i.-5 always well supplied with all sorts of farm and dairy 
 produce. But we now return to Toronto. 
 
 BY THE GREAT LAKES TO THE 
 FAR WEST. 
 
 HE waterways of Canada have been potent 
 agencies in its commercial and industrial 
 development, and a grea; factor in theopen- 
 ''^'' ing up of the country. They may not have 
 the rich historic memories that cling to the lakes and 
 rivers of the Old World, though they nr(! not lacking 
 in local interest, and many of them have a proud tale 
 to tell of daring exploits and noble heroism. But 
 whatever their history, they are dear to the hearts of 
 numberless pioneers who have either settled about 
 
 them, or bravely probed them in searcii of honest 
 homes and kindly firesides. In the blazoned annals 
 of human endea\'our, these early pioneers and first 
 settlers of the country find no place, however humble; 
 yet to them, and to their toil and suffering, Canada 
 and her people to-day owe almost everything. Besides 
 the great lakes, p(;rhaps the most notable feature of 
 Ontario, as it is also a feature of the entire Dominion, 
 is the immense number of creeks, streams and rivers, 
 which vein the whole country and add to its pictur- 
 esque beauty. As we have said, these waterways have 
 given facilities to commerce and been instrumental in 
 promoting settlement. In early days, moreover, when 
 they were more the resort of fin and feather than 
 they are now, they were the means of supplementing 
 the settler's larder. How servic(!al)le they have been 
 to trade and commerce, in the water-pf)wer afforded 
 by nature, tlie lumberman and miller also well know. 
 In recent years, when the lumber trade has receded to 
 the back settlements, the.se streams and sht^etsof water 
 have been chiefly valued for their picturesqueness and 
 their consequent attractiveness as summe'r resorts. 
 Notably is this the case with the many small lakes 
 and streams that lie beyond Lake Simcoe and along 
 the line of the C. P. R , north and south of the town 
 of Peterljoro'. Most of these will be found worthy a 
 visit by the tourist, either for their romantic beautv. 
 or ns fishing resorts, and, in the season, as the stalking 
 
ROSSER AVENUE. BRANDON MAN. 
 
CANADA : !• I{< ».M M;A 1<» SK \. 
 
 83 
 
 j^roiind of moose and deer. The most attractive waters 
 in the Peterboro' rt-gion are Rice, Scugog, Sturgeon, 
 Ililsam, and Stony Lakes. Those, north of Lake 
 Siincoe, that draw the summer visitor to their waters, 
 are the lakes of theMuskoka chain — Muskoka, Joseph, 
 and Rosseau— and the smaller and easterly group^ 
 tapped by the two branches of the Muskoka River 
 Lake of Bays, I'eninsula, Fairy, Vernon, and Mary 
 Lakes. The Muskoka Lakes are the most frequented, 
 as the number of summer hotels and islands occupied 
 l)v campers prove ; while th(! steamboat service on the 
 lakes furnislies every facility for reaching them. The 
 visitor should not fail, if the season be summer, to 
 iiiike a tour round these charming sheets of water. 
 'I'liey open a panorama of thrilling pleasure and de- 
 light to those who enjoy lakeland scentiry and are 
 susceptible to the charms of Nature in wild open 
 disarray or in coy seclusion. 
 
 I^ut tempting as these resorts are, as well as many 
 others in the Muskoka region, and along the island- 
 gemmed shores of the Cieorgian Bay, of which we 
 have not spoken, we must set forth with the traveller, 
 without further detention, on the through route to the 
 West.* At Toronto, the tourist has the choice of two 
 
 ■Those interested in these lakeland regions of the Free Grant 
 District may, for further and more detailed information, consult 
 the present writer's " Guide to Muskoka " (Toronto: Win Bryco). 
 
 routes to the prairie Province and the Canadian North- 
 West, one wholly by land, and one partly by land and 
 partly by water. By the former, if that be his choice, 
 he will leave Toronto by the northern sc^ction of the 
 Grand Trunk and make cf)nnection at North Jiay, at 
 the eastern end of Lake Nipissing, with the main line 
 of the Canadian Pacific. There he will procecid w(!st- 
 ward, via the north shore of Lake Siipt:rior, to Port 
 Arthur, at the head of that great inland sea of the 
 continent. Here we shall detain him in his journey 
 until we can overtake him by the othijr route, vi/., by 
 rail to Owen Sound, on the Georgian Bay, thence by 
 the fine steamers of theC PK. Co., on Lakes Huron 
 and Superior, to I'ort Arthur, on Thunder Bay. It 
 is perhaps proper here to say, that the west-bound 
 traveller has the choice of a third route, though only 
 in part a Canadian one, viz., that via St. Thomas, 
 Detroit, Chicago and St. Paul, thence by the St. Paul, 
 Minneapolis and Manitoba R.R., through the State of 
 Minnesota, and down the Red River Valley, to Winni- 
 peg. Presuming, however, that the traveller will take 
 the route by the Great Lakes, as the most interesting 
 and enjoyable, of those through Canada at any rate, 
 we shall set out with him over that route and make 
 our way by rail from the Provincial Capital to 
 Owen Sound. 
 
 This route will take the traveller through the rich 
 farming country of Central Ontario, over the C.P.R., 
 
84 
 
 ( WADA: IKO.M Si;A TO SKA. 
 
 a braiicJi liiu.' of railway furiiu;rly known as the To- 
 ronto, Ciniy and JJrucc road, Ijiit now brought unrli-r 
 tlui Canadian I'acilic system. At Owen Sound (sets 
 illnstration), a prettily situated town on an inlet of the 
 Georgian J5ay, on<! or otli- r of the fine Clyde built 
 sttN'imers of the Canadian Pacific Steamship .Line will 
 be fonn 1 ready to sail. These steamers are handsome, 
 substantial vessels, with a decided sea-going look, as 
 befits their work in buffeting the occasional storms of 
 the gnat inl.ind sea of Superior. They are exceed- 
 ingly safe as well as coinfi>rtable, are handsomely 
 appointed, well found, and well olficered. The route 
 through the Georgian Bay and Lake Huron is that 
 known as the south channel passage, and though not 
 so picturesijue as the northern one, is safer and less 
 intric.ite for large v(;ssels with a deep draught. The 
 northern channel passage can be taken, however, as 
 far as the Sault Ste Marie, on smaller steamers; and, 
 if time is no particular object, we should recommend 
 the tourist to take this exceedingly picturesque route. 
 At Killarney, on the Algcma shore, the beauty of the 
 route will begin to reveal itself. From this pretty 
 Indian village to the "Soo," the steamer passes 
 through a devious channel between the mainland and 
 the Manitoulin Islands, the coast line on either side 
 being full of craggy headlands and rugged indenta- 
 tions. The channel itself is studded with innumerable 
 islands, of all forms, sizes, and dcgret's of elevation. 
 
 Soon after passing Killarney, which is a quiet fishing 
 village on tin? rocks, recalling Sijine kindred spots, it is 
 said, in lirittany, we pass into a lovely bay studded 
 with islands as the firmament is studded with stars. 
 < )n the right rise the sterile mountains of La Cloche; 
 on the left is the Great Manitoulin —the abode, in 
 tlie Indian mythology, of Manitoii, the Great Spirit, 
 I'.verywhere are the evidences of geological convulsion, 
 fiuring the reign of fire, earthquake and volcano. 
 Vet the islands have gathered soil to cover their gaunt 
 bones of rock, and stand out like emeralds upon the 
 glassy surface of the channel. The endless variety of 
 these islands is absolutely enchanting. To one who 
 has never visited them, the constant change of scene, 
 the play cf nature, infinite in her resources, can 
 scarcely be conceived. Between the bit of angular 
 rock just emerging from the surface, and the large 
 islands of many thousand of acres, there is an infinite 
 sciries. Some are barren or clad only with moss; 
 others bright with the freshest verdure: on some the 
 warmly-tinted foliage of the Canadian maple, the 
 birch, and the pine, throw an air of cheerfulness even 
 on the rocks of the main shore. 
 
 Twenty-five miles from Killarney is Little Current, 
 opposite La Cloche Island. Here the visitor mav 
 meet with a few worthy successors of the early Roman 
 Catholic Missionaries who suffennl and died foi 
 Christianity in the French n'^'/wf ; and whether 
 
— --•>• . M.I 
 
 _"«**SSi||g 
 
 >»J. 
 
 PACIFIC EXPRESS ARRIVING AT BRANDON. MAN 
 
CANADA; lUoM SKA TO SKA. 
 
 36 
 
 rrutestant or Catholic, he. will not he (lisappuintcd 
 witli an interview, however l)ri(f, with the I-'nlhers on 
 M.initoiilin. Proceeding on our way, we pass succes- 
 sivt!ly, Spanish Kiver, Jitiico Mines, and St. Joseph 
 island, and enter the narrow channel of the St. Mary 
 l-tiver. This rapid and broken current is at once the 
 .utlet of Lake Superior and the boundary line l)etw(!cii 
 Canada and the United States. An hour or two's 
 (lt'lif,'htful sail brings us to the dual town —one on the 
 Canadian and one on the American side of the river — 
 I if Sault Ste. Marie. Both are situated near the f.).)t 
 <pf the rapids which here obstruct navigation betwc(.n 
 Lakes Superior and Huron. The current in the 
 rapids runs at the rate of from fifteen to twenty miles 
 ■m hour, and forms an impassable barrier tJ tiiu 
 passage of vessels of any description. A canal, con- 
 structed on the American shore, obviates the impedi- 
 ment to navigation. 
 
 The " Soo " is beautifully situated, and forms one 
 of the favourite summer resorts in this healtliy 
 region. It ha.s of late sprung into great importance 
 as a railway centre, since the Canadian Pacific con- 
 structed their branch line from Sudbury along the 
 Algoma shore to thi:> point, where it ctmnects with the 
 western railway system of the United States. It was 
 at the Sault, in 1671, that Father Allouet planted the 
 cross and took possession c^ the country in the name 
 of the French King, I.r.uisXrV. The influence of these 
 
 early Jesuit missionaries is .still poti>nt amung the in 
 dian tribes, cvt;n as far west as the Rocky Mount.iins. 
 Leaving the " Soo," a short sail brings us to tht: 
 head of the St. M.iry Kivir and tin.; eiituince tt> Lakt? 
 Superior. This lake, which tlu; Indiruis call " (Jitchee 
 Caimee," or Hig Sea Water, covers an urea of 3^^,000 
 square miles. It is about 40Q miles long by ifio broad. 
 Its shores are almost uninterruptedly rock-bound, the 
 cliffs varying from 200 to 1,500 feet in height; the 
 north, or Cinadian, side being pre-eminently grand 
 and rugged. On the simthcrn side, the objects of 
 interest are the Pictured Kocks, Porcupine ^b)UiUain, 
 the Twelve Apostles' Islands, and the town of Mar- 
 quette, the seat of the rich iron trade of the region, 
 and the distant city of Dulutli, in Minnesota. The 
 steamer takes its course directly across the wid<!st 
 part of the lake, and K ss than twenty-four hours' sail 
 brings us within sight of Isle Royale and the lofty 
 purple promontory of Thunder Cape. The whole 
 north shore, as we have said, is wild and rug.^ed, with 
 beautiful bays and lovely islets, as well as innumer- 
 able streams, that force their way over the rocky 
 barriers. The region about Nipigon Pay, which ex- 
 tends for many miles between the rocky islands and 
 tha dark frowning cliffs of the mainl.tnd, is perhaps 
 the wildest and most picturesque portion of the lake 
 shore. Here, could we visit it on the present trip, 
 the \isitor would find himself in the re-gion where fire, 
 
36 
 
 CANADA: FllOM SKA TO SKA. 
 
 earthquake and vulcano ha\e rcit and melted and 
 hurled about the strata near the surface of the eanh 
 iu tlie most ^'rinily playful of moods. To the sports- 
 man, \vhether v ith rod or gun, the artist, the geoloi^Mst, 
 or the pleasur(;-seeker, this wild archipelago presents 
 unrivalled attractions. The whole ru^'on of tin; north 
 shore of Lake Superior is understood to be rich in 
 mint!rals. Near to Thunder Bay, which the steani(?r 
 enters, to make for Port Arthur, is the once renowned 
 Silver Tslet. This insignificant speck upon the surface 
 of the lake some years ago attained great importance 
 in the estimation of the mining companies, for, w ithin 
 its circumscribed space of about eighty feet siiuare, 
 untold wealth of precious metal was to be gotoutof the 
 mine, and for a time the yield indeed was enormous. 
 Hut we now pass the maj^nificent headland of Thunder 
 Tape, which rises grandly into a nigh bold wall of 
 ([uartz, nearly 13,000 feet above the lake, and steam to 
 moorings in the tliriving modern town of Port Arthur. 
 
 FROM PORT ARTHUR TO WINNIPEG. 
 
 
 'HIS rapidly risin 
 of Lake Suptn ■ 
 'j'' wholly a creatiim of C.P.R. enterprise, though 
 
 ''orthern town, at the head 
 lav be said to be almost 
 
 '^ under the name of Prince Arthur's Landing 
 it dates back to Confederation. Since the opening of 
 the Lake .Superior sivtion of the great national high- 
 
 way, and of the improved steamboat service on the 
 great lakes, the town has risen greatly in importance. 
 It has all the outfit of a great railway centre; and ship- 
 ping port — wharves, docks, elevators, warehouses and 
 stations — and its situation, in the heart of an incredibly 
 rich mineral region, must give it increasing eminence. 
 Its proximity to the Lake Nepigon country, one of the 
 finest of the untapped regions for sport in Canada, 
 will also increase the attractions of the place, for 
 sportsmen, at least. Five or six miles to the west- 
 ward of Port Arthur is Fort William, at the mouth of 
 the Kaministi(iuia River. On this river, some little 
 distance from its mouth, are the Kakabeka Falls (see 
 illustration), I'ort William and the region about has 
 an interesting history in connection with the fur trade 
 and with early exploration in the Far West. For long 
 it was an important Hudson's Bay Depot for furs and 
 stores of all kinds, and at one time it was the head- 
 quarters of the North-West Fur Company, until its 
 union, after a desperate struggle, with the old mon- 
 opoly. Port Arthur has now thrown the old trailing- 
 post completely into the shade ; though it will always 
 be worth a visit, for its historical interest, and for the 
 tranquil beauty of its surroundings on lake, mountain 
 and river. 
 
 We now commit ourselves in earnest to our through 
 trqi, via the C. P. R., to the Pacific. At the station 
 we board the train which has (\)mt! from 'Vlontreul, 
 
35 
 
 1^ 
 
 
 
 *■*■* -* J. jut .«. 
 
 BJFliiii'lffi''''''' 
 
 ^ A2ir' '^'■■***''*^ 
 
 .^y L' ''>tf iijjujyj 
 
 , ; .7T".<i,...>, » .. . 
 
 
 
 INDIAN WITH TRAVLRSE. ON THE PLAINS 
 
 SQUAW WITH PAPOOSE ON BACK& TEPEE . WIGWAM ) 
 
 .-J 
 
38 
 
 REGINA, DISTRIOT OF ASSINIBOIA 
 
 39 
 
 MEDICINE HAT. 
 
CANADA: FHOM SKA TO SEA. 
 
 37 
 
 via Ottawa and Lake Nipissing, and through the laby- 
 rinths of rock and timber that beset the iron highway 
 north of Lake Superior, and which at Port Artluir 
 sets out on the first of the Western sections of this 
 great railway enterprise. I'ort Arthur is precisely a 
 thousand miles from Montreal, and Winnipeg is four 
 hundred and twenty-three miles west of Port Arthur. 
 The time consumed in making the trip from Montreal 
 direct to Winnipeg is two and a half days. The four 
 hundred and twenty-three miles from Port Arthur to 
 Winnipeg, occupies nineteen hours. Prom Port Artliur 
 westward, the road is run on the twenty-four hour 
 system, which abolishes the a.m. and p.m. time desig- 
 nation, and makes the hours from noon till midnight 
 those from 12 to 24 o'clock. By the time-table at 
 present adopted, the hour of departure from Port 
 Arthur to Winnipeg is 14 .'.5 o'clock, or 2.25 p m. : 
 the through express is due at Winnipeg at cj.30 on the 
 following morning. 
 
 It is not a little curious to contrast with this expe- 
 ditious and comfortable travelling 1 etween the head 
 of Like Superior and the old Red River settlement, 
 long known as Fort Garry (now the City of Winnipeg), 
 the long and toilsome mode of getting between these 
 two points, before the recent railway facilities sup- 
 planted the wearisome canoeing and portaging, over 
 what was known as the Dawson route, and the equally 
 wearisome methods of getting over the same ground 
 
 by the old trappers and voyagctirs of the halcyon days 
 of the Fur trade. What is now accomplished in nine- 
 t(>en hours by rail, it used to take weeks of toil to 
 accomplish in the Fur-trading era. When Colonel 
 (now Lord) Wolseley led the Red River expeditionary 
 force, in 1S70, uver this same route, to quell the first 
 Riel rebellion, he was three months In getting over the 
 ground, so many and difficult were the natural ob- 
 stacles in his way. The ciiaracter of the country will 
 be seen by the traveller as he passes over it. It is 
 wild and rugged in the extreme, and can be (jf service 
 only to the lumberman and miner, though it!i wildness 
 and ruggedness constitute its chief charm to lovers of 
 the picturesque. It abounds ia the loveliest and most 
 alluring of lakes, from the tiny pool on the rough 
 Laurentian ridge that traverses the country to the 
 fine sheet of water, with its Ijeautiful setting of timber 
 and rock, historically famed as the Lake of the 
 Woods. Besides these lakes and lakelets, the region 
 is veined by innumerable streams, literally swarming 
 with trout, and very wooing to lovers of the " gentle 
 pastime." Its forest wealth and mineral riches are 
 incomputable, and therefore must be "untold." In 
 verification of the abounding riches of the region, 
 we quote the following from a practical observer, 
 who may also be trusted to be a good authority : — 
 " But wild and rough as it is, this country is full 
 of natural wealth. Valuable minerals and precious 
 
30 
 
 CANADA : FKOM SKA TO SEA. 
 
 metals abouiul, aiul from here, mainly, is prociirtMl 
 liiu timbur to supply the prairies beyond. As we 
 draw nearer to the prairies, {^reat saw-mdls be^^in to 
 appear, with piles of lumber awaiting shipment; and 
 at all tin; stations arc lar,i;e accumulations of timber 
 to be move 1 westward - -firewood, lencin;,', and beams 
 and blocks for all purposes. Many men find employ- 
 ment in these forests, and villages are growing up at 
 intervals. And, strange as it may seem, hardy settleis 
 are clearing the land and miking farms in the wilder- 
 ness ; but these are Eastern Canadians who were born 
 in the woods, and who despise the cheap and ready- 
 made farms of the prairies." The chief stations on 
 tliis section of the railway are Rat Portage and Kce- 
 watin, to the north of the Lake of the Woods, and 
 Selkirk, on the Red River, about half way between the 
 City of Winnipeg and the lake of the same name. 
 
 Before entering the Prairie Province, let us make a 
 brief reference, with some statistical facts, to the 
 Canadian Pacific Railway Co., to whose enterprise the 
 traveller is indelited not only for the facilities which 
 the splendidly ecpiipped road affords in getting through 
 British territory to the Far West, but for the measure 
 of comfort, and even luxury, he will have enjoyed 
 in availing himself thus far of the Company's service. 
 Thougli the Canadian Pacific Railway Company was 
 organized for the purpose of building this great 
 national highway so recently as i.SSi, when it re- 
 
 ceived its charter and entered upon its contract with 
 the Dominion Government, the project of constructing 
 a road across the contiiumt within British territory, 
 and by it connecting all the I'rovincesof the Dominion, 
 was mooted so far back iis 1867, when Confederation 
 was accomplished. The idea grew upon the mind of 
 Canadian statesmen as the project was seen to be 
 necessary to the linking together of the far-severed 
 i'rovinces under Dominion rule, and not only that, 
 br.t as the construction, equipping, and running of 
 the road would be of service to the Empire at large, 
 in enabling the Imperial country to make use of the 
 line for military and postal purposes. In fulfilment 
 of the idea, the Dominion authorities sent out and 
 maintained for many ye.irs large and efficient corps of 
 engineers and surveyors to determine the most feasible 
 route for the line to take, and to gather all necessary 
 information as to the practicability of constructing 
 the road, and to estimate what its probable cost 
 would be. This consumed years of time and cost 
 millions of dollars to the country. After this came 
 several attempts at partly building the road, and long 
 and vexatious delays in negotiating with companies 
 likely to assume the great outlay and responsibility of 
 building it, either on their own account or for the 
 Government. Into all this too familiar tale we need 
 not h(!re and mnv enter, nor need we refi:r to the 
 political controversies which raged round the under- 
 
40. 
 
 CANMOPr THE THREE SISTL«S 
 
 
 ■^::-^f'-jy 
 
 ., ft. ' »■• 
 
 j« : i l i(i>| * < !. I 
 
 -11 iLI 
 
 m I'. 
 
 ^^~ u.lh ^ S«^ '^ 
 
 
 _ • -.;-«,':«-»V«* S" 
 
 aiiia 
 
 
 CALGARY, ON THE C P R. 
 
CANADA: lltO.M sl.A lO MA. 
 
 30 
 
 taking. It will sufHce briefly to say that after much 
 and long iief^'otiation, arrangements were finally come 
 to with the prc^sent Canadian I'acific J<ail\vay Com- 
 pany to construct the road, with the aid of large 
 subventions in money and large grants of land from 
 the Government of the country. The ("omi)any, as 
 we have already said, was organized in i.S!m, and it 
 immediately and vigorously set to work upon its great 
 contract. Its agreement with the Dominion Govern- 
 ment was to complete the line within ten years. Vast 
 as was the undertaking, and almost incredible as was 
 the labour in laying out and building the line, par- 
 ticularly in the Rocky Mountain section and in the 
 wilderness portions of the road lying to the north 
 of Lake Superior, the great work was completed by 
 the close of 1885, and soon thereafter was in running 
 order. Here we must quote from the railway authori- 
 ties themselves, to enable the reader to form some- 
 thing like an adequate conception of this gigantic 
 work, and of the conscientious thoroughness with 
 which the Company has carried out its bargain with 
 the country : — 
 
 "The energies of tlie Company had not been con- 
 fined to the mere fulfilment of its contract with the 
 Government. Much more was done in order that the 
 railway might fully serve its purpose as 9 commercial 
 enterprise. Independent connections with the Allan-. 
 tic seaboard were secured by the purchase of lines 
 
 leading eastward to Montreal and (,)uebec ; branch 
 lines to the chief centres of Iradc; in l'2astern Canada 
 were providefl by purchase and construction, to col- 
 lect and distribute the trafiic of the main line; and 
 other branch lines were built in the North-West for 
 the development of the great prairies. 
 
 " The close of i<SS5 found the Company, not yet five 
 years old, in possession of no less than 4,315 miles of 
 railway, including the longest continuous line in the 
 world, exteiidin:,' from Quebec and Montreal all the 
 way across the continent to the I'acific Ocean, a dis- 
 tance of 3,050 miles; and by the midsummer of I^3.S6 
 all this vast system was fully equipped and fairly 
 working througliout. Villages and towns and even 
 cities followed close upon the heels of the line- 
 builders; the forests were cleared away, the prairie's 
 soil was turned over, mines were opened, and even 
 before the last rail was in place the completed sections 
 were carrying a large and profitable traffic. The 
 touch of the young Giant of the North was felt upon 
 the world's commerce almost before his existence was 
 known ; and, not content with the trade of the golden 
 shores of the Pacific from California to Alaska, his 
 arms have already strt^tched out across that broad 
 ocean and grasped the teas and silks of China and 
 Japan, to e.xchano'e them for the fabrics of Europe." 
 
40 
 
 I ASAI> \ I l{<»M MA 1(» SliA. 
 
 WINNIPEG, THE CAPITAL OF THE 
 PRAIRIE PROVINCE. 
 
 Min.li we have been inakiin^ t'ns clit^russion 
 f/i', our tram has meaiitiiuc einern«(l from tin; 
 :;) nmged woods, maiU; a lirii f halt at Selkirk. 
 ^ '^^^i an:l speeding,' alonj,' the li^'\ Rivv.v Valle\ , 
 lias crosseil a. fine iron bridj^e that spasis the river and 
 I'littTed the- capital of the I'rairie Praviiv.-e, To con- 
 trast the Winnipej^ of to-day with the Ftirt Garry, tiif 
 local Hudson Jiay post of twenty-tive years a},'o, is 
 ri'latively to contrast the modern British metropolis 
 with the Londininm of the Romans; and to reach it 
 from civili/ation was, but a few years ago, as dihiciiit 
 as it was to reach York from Lond-ui at the tinu; of 
 the Heptarchy. Wh.-it tin; i)lace looked like whiMi the 
 I'oniinion, in 1869, actpiired the rights of the Hudson 
 r>ay Company, may be gathered from the following 
 .tccount by an old resident of Winnijieg, when about 
 that time he reached the Red River Settlcjment from 
 the Mississippi : " I remember well," writes this early 
 settler, " the difficulties experienced during my first 
 trip to Fort Garry, the site of the present City of 
 Winnipeg. An Indian pony attached to a rude ox- 
 cart was the only convey. uice to be had, and with 
 that I set out to travel 600 miles over the houseless 
 
 prairie to my destination To-day you may 
 
 make the journey in less than twenty-four hours 
 
 (which originally took im time weiksi, sealf-d m a 
 comfortable I'nllman car, instead of tin: Rid Kiver 
 cart of former years. When 1 first travelled oser the 
 route no horses were to be mt.'t with, no settlers to 
 offer yon hospitality ; the cart trail of the prairie was 
 the only mark to guide you on your w.iv. Is'ow the 
 country is studded with farms and farndiouses; cities, 
 towns and villages have sprung into existence, and 
 radways are to be found running in every dir(;ction. 
 . . . . Never shall I forget the scene that pre- 
 sented itself when I first saw I'orl Garry. Hundreds 
 of Indi.in lodgtis and tejiees covered the plain, many 
 of the aborigines and pk'iin-hnnters having congregated 
 at the spf)t to obtain supplies for the winter hunt. 
 Haifa mile from the fort stood about a dozen houses, 
 the homes and shops of th(! free-traders. There were 
 not, I suppose, one hundred men, all told, living in 
 the place where to-day is a city of over 30,000 inhabi- 
 tants ■' 
 
 And Winnipeg's progress is, in large measure, that 
 of other towns within and without the Province. As 
 if by enchantment, have sprung up villages and ham- 
 lets in favourable locations over the great face of the 
 country. Maps of the line of the Canadian Pacific 
 Railway give but a meagre idea of the number and 
 rapid growth of these yet infant settlements ; and, to 
 .see them with one's eyes, one can scarcely realize the 
 fact that but a few years ago these villages and towns 
 

 
 i 
 
 1^ 
 
 
 
 "^ ''mi7m>'am\ 
 
 43. 
 
 .r"!' 
 
 •Wtn 
 
 :Si 
 
 gSfi^iiPi^ 
 
 <->] 
 
 
 ».V..V.^' '* 
 
 
 A]j^iA 
 
 
 
 BANFF- C.R R. HOTEL 
 
CANADA : T••no^r SEA TO SKA. 
 
 41 
 
 were non-existent and their sites were the virgin 
 prairie. The situation of Winnipeg, though low and 
 flat, ;we can well understand was, in the fur-tradinj^ 
 era, an attractive and advantageous one. It occu- 
 pies the old site of the North-West Fur Company's 
 trading-post, Fort Gibraltar, at the confluence of the 
 Assiniboine and Red Rivers, and aliont tliirty miles 
 south of the outlet of their comliined waters in Like 
 Winnipeg. Situate at the junction of these two noble 
 rivers, which fertilize a great valley, and witli an 
 incredibly rich country around, we can well imagine 
 how the early site of the present city was selected as 
 a trading-post and fur mart by the trappers of the 
 old fur companies, and how it came to be chosen by 
 the ill-fated immigrants of Lord Selkirk's cohjny, at 
 the beginning of the century, as a desirable region for 
 settlement and colonization. Beautiful as was the 
 situation, though the region was a wilderness, the 
 infant settlement had a long and weary struggle with 
 nature, pitifully aggravated by the enmity of the 
 fur-traders, who were hoitile to colonisation, before 
 the day of promise dawned upon their hopes. This 
 story of the Selkirk colony and its contests with the 
 Nor'-Westers we cannot here go into, though it is 
 replete with dramatic incident, for the colony had a 
 painfully harrowing and chequered career. Nor can 
 we deal with the two Reil rebellions and the resis- 
 tance of tiie French half-breed population to the 
 
 intrusion of white settlers and colonists after the 
 country was acquired by the Crown. Those who may 
 feel interested in the North-West and its troubles, 
 during the fur-trade regime, may consult the work 
 issued in 1885, by the present writer, with the narra- 
 tive of the several insurrections that have taken place 
 in the country.* The numerous local histories, and 
 the still more numerous works of travels in Manitoba 
 and the North-West, both Canadian and English, 
 may also be consulted with profit. 
 
 But the old-time, simple and picturesque life of the 
 Red River Settlement has almost entirelj disappeared 
 from the city that now opens wide its arms to the 
 tourist as well as to the land-hungry immigrant. 
 Winnipeg is in itself not only, relatively, a great city 
 and the Provincial metropolis; it is the portal to 
 illimitable stretches of the most fertile land on the 
 face of the earth, capable of sustaining in affluence 
 and comfort at least a hundred millions of people. It 
 is the key to this vast Empire; and fo it chiefly, and 
 it may be for all time, must the thousand miles of 
 smiling prairie that lie beyond the Red River, with 
 
 * Vide "The Canadian Noi th-Wust : Its History ami its 
 Troubles, fion the e:v:'.y days of the Fur-trado to tlic era of tlii; 
 R.iilw.iy aiid tlie Scttl.r; with Incidents of Travel in tiie R(';'ioii, 
 and the Narrative of Three Insurrection-." By G. Mercer 
 Adam, cx-Capt. Queen's Own Rifles, late I'.ditor of The CanaUian 
 Mdiithly, ( ic. (Toronto: Ilnnlir, Ro';c & Co.) 
 
4^ 
 
 CANADA: FKONf SKA 'lO SKA. 
 
 the mighty harvests annually reaped from them, be 
 tributary; as the ten lines of railway that already 
 converge upon the city indicate. Nor ".pn one limit 
 the possibilities of growth and development, even in 
 the near future, when one observes what tlie enerj^'y 
 and enterprise of its citizens have already done for 
 Winnipeg. A stroll through the streets of the city 
 and a glance down Main Street, the chief artery, will 
 apprise the visitor of what has been achieved in a 
 few years, and what iorces, commercial and industrial, 
 have been at work to bring about so surprising and 
 gratifying a result. Already, the public buildings, the 
 fine stores and long lines of warehouses, the banks, 
 land and financial institutions, the churches, colleges 
 and schools of the place, with its varied industries 
 and commerce by rail and river, are such as many an 
 old and long established city cannot boast of, and 
 would be proud to point to, even if its population were 
 five times that of Winnipeg. But we need not detain 
 the traveller with comment of this sort, when he can 
 see so much better for himself what has so far been 
 the progress of the city, and can make his own fore- 
 cast of its future from data gathered on the spot. 
 (See illustrations.) 
 
 THE PROVINCE OF MANITOBA AND ITS 
 RESOURCES. 
 
 ^F the west-bound traveller has no call to regard 
 1,, the limitations of time or money, which so com- 
 \; [ monly impose their stern edicts upon travelling 
 ''4'^ humanity, we would bid him see something of the 
 great Province of Manitoba on one or other of the 
 many lines of railway, besides that of the through line 
 to the Pacific, which, radiating from Winnipeg, inter- 
 sect the Province north, south and west of the Capital. 
 If an agriculturist, or if interested in the capabilities 
 of the Province as a field of great promise to the 
 intending settler, particularly if he brings with him 
 expsrience and capital, he will do well to take a run 
 out of Winnipeg over soma of the local roads that tap 
 the Province in the directions we have indicated, and 
 form his own impressions of the resources of the 
 country. He will find, we feel sure, that Manitoba 
 is not only a land of infinite possibilities, but that, 
 where settlement has been made, the labour of the 
 husbandman has already beea bountifully blessed. 
 Let us first endeavour to gain some idea of the extent 
 and capabilities of the Prairie Province, and of the 
 great farming and grazing lands in the new Territories 
 to the west of it as far as space will permit us to 
 point these out. Manitoba extends from the western 
 boundary of Ontario, long in dispute, but now de- 
 
KICKING HORSE PASS - LOOKING EAST. 
 
CANADA : IKO.M Si;A TO SEA. 
 
 48 
 
 dared to be on a line a little to the east of 95", at its 
 southern boundary, to loi^ 30' west longitude, and 
 from the international boundary (4'/) to nearly 53" 
 north latitude. The desolate territory of Keewatin 
 lies to the north of the Province, sweeping past the 
 western shores of Hudson Bay, to the Frozen Ocean. 
 On the west He the rich districts of Assiniboia, Sas- 
 katchewan, Alberta, and Athabasca, bt)unded by the 
 towering Rockies and liritish Cohunbia, the; Dijminion 
 Province on ihe Pacific. Tiirough these districts run 
 twenty meridians of longitude, and at least ten of 
 latitude, that are adapted for settlement. This vast 
 basin is channelled by great fertilizing streams, and 
 gemmed by the most beautiful prairie flowers, fringed 
 on the north by a sheluring line of forest. For farm- 
 ing and grazing purposes, no land on the planet is 
 more suitable ; the soil is a black alluvium of great 
 depth and almost inexhaustible fertility, broken by 
 occasional groups of low hills, composed chielly of 
 sand and gravel, ?nd by a few alkaline swamps. No 
 account of its amazing productiveness could well be 
 exaggerated; and being comparatively free of timber 
 (a certain drawback, indeed, to the settler, though for 
 fuel purposes there is abundant coal) it is at once 
 ready for the settler's plough. 
 
 The soil of Manitoba, having originally been the 
 bed of a lake, is mai.ily formed of a rich silt depositt^d 
 during the a^ons oi the past. Nowiiere is such tine 
 
 wheat grown as is grown in the Province, and the 
 average yield is high, except in seasons when frosts 
 have affected either the quantity or the qualitv. 
 Potatoes and other root crops yield wonderfuUv. 
 The climate of Manitoba is e.xcessive, and this, with 
 frosts occasionally blighting not a little of the harvest, 
 is the drawback. The temperature ranges from 95" 
 Fahr. in summiT, to 30° ai.I 40" below zer'^ in winter. 
 The mean rainfall is about twenty, and the mean 
 snowfall about fifty, inches. Excessive as the climate 
 is, it is, however, extremely healthy and bracing. In 
 the territories to the westward, the climate is more 
 equable, and the snowfall is much less. There, cattle 
 graze and do well in the open throughout the year. 
 
 Sport in Manitoba, we need hardly say, is now 
 shorn of its griMt glory, in the disappearance of the 
 buffalo. There is still considerable sport to be had, 
 in the shape of elk, moose, caribou, antelope, and 
 'vhiterab'. it, in various sections of the Province. For 
 elk, the chief sporting-ground is the Pembina Moun- 
 tain ; for moose, the Duck and Riding Mountains, and 
 the low lands about Lake Manitoba; for cari!)ou, the 
 country around Lake Winnipeg and the Lake of the 
 Woods; for antelope, the Plains of the Souris River, 
 but chiefly in the territories west of the Province. 
 By the lakes, and about the numerous ponds and 
 rivers, duck, wild geese, cranes, aiul occasionally 
 wliit(! pelii ans are to be met with. 
 
41 
 
 ( AN AHA : IHdM M. \ TO SKA. 
 
 OVER THE PRAIRIES TO THE ROCKIES. 
 
 I.-\VI.\MI'i:(; TO UKCINA, IllK lAlMlAr, <^K 
 
 iiii-: NORTii-wiisr ri:KRiT()i<ii:s. 
 
 f»'-,^Tl'- iH>w comiiit ourselves to the long and 
 4 m ,pl% somewhat monotonous journey over those 
 wl'-'-^ldl twin parallel IkiiicIs of iron that span the; 
 l^c^'j J pi-airie stretches of the West, — once the 
 feeding-ground of countless herds of buffalo, now no 
 more seen, -cMuI that link the Canada on the Atlantic 
 with the greater Canada on the Pacific. Civilization, 
 thougli it ht-.* opened these great prairies to the hus- 
 bandman, has practically closed them to the hunter. 
 It is pathetic to think how swift has been the disappear- 
 ance of animal life from the Plains, After the accpiire- 
 ment of the Territories, a few years sufficed to clear 
 them of the buffalo; and in the recent sale and expor- 
 tation of the herd preserved at Stony Mountain, as an 
 experiment in domestication, we have seen the last of 
 the lordly bison. With the vanishing of the large 
 game and the inswarmingof the white man, how soon, 
 we ask ourselves, may not the red mango? In his 
 case, too, domestication seems a failure, for Nimrod 
 shows little eagerness to tlirow off his apathy and be- 
 come a tiller of the soil. As a ward of the nation he 
 may linger for a while, but his fate, we fear, like that 
 of the buffalo, is to disappear. The destiny of the 
 " half-breed " is, doubtless, more hopeful, for, unlike 
 
 the pure Indian, though he fought against the intrusion 
 of the settler, he has taken rather kindly to agriculture, 
 and is trying to adajU himself to the altered conditions 
 of the countr\'. Still, e\en the half-breed feels uneasy 
 at the advancing wave of civilizaticm ; and as the 
 North-West is more and more opened by railways, he 
 may be found receding at their approach, and per- 
 haps, finally, become one of a degenerate race. 
 
 As we proceed westward, the new and the old will 
 be found strangely intermingled. About the brand- 
 new towns barbarism still jostles civilization, and the 
 luxurious comforts of a " Pullman " contrast oddly at 
 times with the rawness of settlements passed eii route. 
 Yet full of promise are those wide seas of green that 
 now begin to break, in long sweeping billows, on the 
 eye of the traveller. The huge elevators that tower 
 over busy towns like Portage la Prairie and Brandon 
 impress one with the fact that we are passing over a 
 region not only destined to be thechief granary of the 
 world, but which has t.lready become a great wheat 
 mart. And yet not a tithe of the land is at the present 
 time under cultivation ; only here and th°re has it been 
 homesteaded and pre-empted by the settler. 
 
 Since we left Winnipeg we have been following up 
 the course of the Assiniboine River, marked by a line 
 of aspens along its banks, and now at a distance of 
 fifty-five miles from the Capital, we reach Portage la 
 Prairie, a hamlet but yesterday, though to-day a town 
 
r^^g^- 
 
 47. 
 
 MOUNT STEPHEN/ROCKIES 
 
*-^:'Zi'' ' 
 
 '"' 
 
CANADA : FROM SEA TO SEA. 
 
 45 
 
 indeed. Its flour mills and elevators speak eloquently 
 of the rich farming country around, while its stores 
 and busy streets mark it as a thriving and compara- 
 tively populous centre. Its proximity to Lake jNLuii- 
 toba, about twenty-five miles due north, gives the 
 town additional importance. Here the Manitoba and 
 North-Western R.K. branches off, two hundred miles 
 north-westward, in the direction of Prince Albert ar.d 
 the settlements on the North Saskatchewan. On this 
 line are Minnedosaand Rapid City, and beyond tlu lii 
 Birtle, not far from the Hudson Bay post, Fort Elli-e, 
 on the Qu'Appelle Kiver. On the C.l'.K., one hun- 
 dred and thirty miles from Winnipeg, is Brandon, 
 where the railway crosses the Assiniboine and follov.s 
 it and its chief tributary, the Qu'Appelle, for about 
 four hundred miles on the south. Brandon, thorgh 
 not more than six or seven years old, is the largest 
 town west of Winnipeg. Our illustrations will give 
 some little idea of the place, and of the busy scene in 
 proximity to the grain elevators and the line of the 
 railway. To the prospects of Brandon no one can 
 set limits, for a vast and extraordinarily fertile coun- 
 try i.s tributary to it, and it has a charming locaiiou 
 on the Assiniboine. 
 
 Seventy-five miles west of Brandon, we pass from 
 the Province of Manitoba and enter the North-West 
 Territories. Tiie railway, through the district of 
 Assiniboine, follows, for nearly five; hundred miles, 
 
 the course of the Qu'Appelle and the South Sas- 
 katchewan Rivers, and then trends northwards, for 
 two hundred and fifty miles furtlier, through the 
 district of Alberta, to the summit of the eastern range 
 of the Rockies. .Entering the Territories, the traveller 
 will find himself coursing over an apparently bound- 
 less tract of undulating, flower-scented prairie, where 
 the horizon plays all sorts of tricks with the imagina- 
 tion, and where, despite the rate at which you travel, 
 yiiu seem to be no further on the morrow than you 
 were yesterday. Not the features of the landscape, 
 but the meridian lines on th.e map, assure you that 
 you are really making progress. For the most part, 
 moreover, one station is so much like anotli(;r, and 
 one stretch of prairie so much like the one that fol- 
 lows it, that it is hard to believe that you are making 
 headway at all, or that the train that bears you is 
 not a phantom race-hor.sc on a stretch of phantom 
 turf. Yet the hours and the pace tell : we lett Brandon 
 aglow in the afternoon sun, and at midnight we are 
 at QuWppelle, two hundred miles to the westward, 
 and within an hour and a-half's run of Regina. It 
 w IS at Qu'Appelle, in the spring of 18S5, that the 
 North- West Expeditionary Force, sent out from the 
 older Provinces to suppress the second Riel rebel- 
 lion, mustered before entering upon the campaign 
 against the Half-breeds of the South Saskatclu^wan. 
 P>!eak and dreary was the fifty mile march of one 
 
46 
 
 CANADA : FROM SKA TO SEA. 
 
 column of the attacking force over the great salt plain 
 that stretches away north of Qu'Appelle, between the 
 File and the Beaver and the Little and Big Touch- 
 wood Hills. It was well, however, for the invading 
 force that the Indians of the region were friendly. 
 
 Here, in ihis connection, we may aptly refer to the 
 dusky denizens of the plains, whose hunting-grounds 
 the settler has invaded, and whose incoming has 
 driven from Ihe region the game that was their sole 
 '•ubsistence. The traveller, we daresay, will vouch 
 for the accuracy of the representation of Indian life 
 on the plains '/. .en in our sketches (see plate 35-37) ; 
 though, if he has travelled with us thus far on the 
 prairies, he will no doubt have seen more of the 
 " ncble red man " than he now cares to look at, even 
 in a picture. For the most part, the Indians of the 
 North-West are a degraded and dissolute race. Some 
 bands lead a shiftless and vagabond life; though a 
 few have rewarded Government care of them by for- 
 saking their nomadic habits and following agricultural 
 pursuits. Their number in Manitoba and the Ter- 
 ritories is close upon thirty-five thousand; and half 
 as many more inhabit the Athabasca district and tl'.e 
 valleys of the rivers that drain to the Arctic Ocean. 
 Another thirty-five thousand are to be found in British 
 Columbia. The Indians of the North-West may be 
 said to represent five distinct families, viz., the Al- 
 gonquins; the Assiniboines or Stoneys, who are allied 
 
 to the Sioux; the Blackfeet, including the Sarcees, 
 Bloods, Piegans, and the Indians of the eastern slope 
 of the Rocky Mountains ; tlie Chippewayans or Tinnes, 
 a branch of the Montagnais; and the Eskimos, or In- 
 noits, who belong to the Algonquin family, and are 
 allied to the Kamschatkans or northern Mongols. The 
 Manitoba Indians are mainly Algonquin. The tribe 
 to the east of the Province is the Salteaux or Chippe- 
 way, who roam westward from Sault Ste. Marie, 
 round the north shore of Lake Superior, and along 
 the margin of those "liquid battalions" that mark 
 with a " silver streak " the country between the Kam- 
 inistiquia and the Red River. To the north and west 
 of Manitoba are the Christineaux, or Crees, of whom 
 there are two tribes, the Crecs of the Plains and the 
 Wood Crees. The former live in " loges " or leathern 
 tepees (wigwams), while the latter, like the Salteaux, 
 house themselves in birchbark huts. Allied to the 
 Crees are the Muskegons, or Swampies, so called 
 from the swampy character of the district they in- 
 habit — the neighbourhood of the group of lakes 
 which collect the water of the great rivers flowing 
 into Hudson Bay. Not a few of the Cree tribe were 
 leaders in the Half-breed rebellion of 1885 on the 
 South Saskatchewan. West of the Crees are the As- 
 siniboines of the plain and the forest. With the Sal- 
 teaux, this tribe formerly maintained lively relations 
 with the Sioux, to the south; and, with the Crees, 
 

 'J) 
 
 < 
 
 a. 
 
 If) 
 'en 
 
 Ld 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 C" 
 
 < 
 
 z 
 
 D 
 O 
 
 
50. 
 
 GLACIER RA.xlGE, FROM SUMMIT OF ROCKIES. 
 
CANADA: I KOM SKA TO SKA 
 
 47 
 
 they have long been at enmity with the Blackfeet. 
 The hitter are the Iroquois of the West, and with the 
 Bloods, I'iegans, and Sarcees, to whom they are re- 
 lated, are a warlike people. The annual (iovernment 
 appropriation for the support of the Indians of Mani- 
 toba and the North-West Territories, and the main- 
 tenance of the Indian agencies and e:iperimental farms, 
 exceeds a million dollars. Of this large sum, almost 
 a half is annually disbursed for provisions for destitute 
 Indians. This fact, as the present writer has else- 
 where observed, while it speaks well for the liberality 
 of Parliament, ^nd attests the humanity of Canada's 
 treatment of the Red Man, is not creditable to the 
 Indian's industry, or to his disposition to improve his 
 environment. Evidently, in the North-West, savage 
 life, if it has begun, has not advanced far in the effort 
 to raise itself in the scale of being. 
 
 II.— REGINA lO TUli MOUXTAIN LIMITS OF THE 
 NORTH WEST TEURITORIES. 
 
 Regina, though the Capital of the North-West Ter- 
 ritories, hardly gets justice done it by the traveller, 
 unless he makes a l/reak here for a day or two, for it 
 is passed by the westbound train in the dead of night. 
 It has no striking beauty of situation to recommend it, 
 for the country in the vicinity h.is " no feature hut 
 immensity, no character save loneliness." The town 
 
 seems set down on an apparently boundless plain (see 
 illustration), and ha.s as yet a rather straggling, fron- 
 tier look. Had the buffalo not all disappeared, wo 
 could imagine them swooping down and over the 
 place, as in " Sunset " Cox's imagination, they rushed 
 with a whirlwind flight into "Duluth,' snorting de- 
 fiance at the intrusion of a race that rose above the 
 civilization of a buffalo " wallow," But we must 
 speak with btjcoming respect of a town in is:t\ which 
 is the headquarters of that admirable organization 
 and great conservator of the peace, the North-West 
 Mounted Police, and where the deckiimiiig voice of 
 the legislator for the Territories is now to be heard 
 " booming down the corridors of time " A few years 
 hence, who shall say that Regina shall not be the 
 Capital of the Dominion, or even of the Federated 
 Empire, when Macaulay's New Zealander, with his 
 sketches of the British metropolis in ashes under his 
 arm, shall have moved westward to look on the ruins 
 of the Parliament lUnldings at Ottawa, and the charred 
 tit'bris of the adjacent lumber-piJes of New Edinburgh 
 and Hull ? 
 
 From Regina a branch railway line strikes off north- 
 ward, by the western shores of f-ong Lake, towards 
 Battleford and the settlements on the upper waters 
 of the N( rth Saskatchewan. Continuing our way 
 westward on the main line, breakfast time will have 
 brought us to Swift Current, a few miles from the iiend 
 
48 
 
 (A.\.\i».\: lUO.M M.A 1() SI-.A. 
 
 of the South Saskatchewan. We shall have passed 
 ilie town of Moosejaw, and the Old Wives Lakes, 
 ^re;it bodies of alkaline water, the encrustations on 
 whose shores glisten like frosted silver in the morning 
 sun. A visible change, it will be seen, has now come 
 over the face of the country, for since we left <,Ju'- 
 Appelle the plains have become (juite treeless, and 
 agricultural operations have given place, in the main, 
 to ranching. The soil coniinues to be wonderfully 
 fertile, though more adapted to cattle-raising and 
 mi\ed farming. Over the short buffalo grass of the 
 region antelope will now be found bounding, while 
 innumerable gopher, a species of ground sipiirrd, are 
 seen curiously eyeing the passing train. About the 
 ponds wild geese, duck, snipe, plover, with crane and 
 pelican, are seen to stalk ; while on the high grounds 
 are myriads of prairie chicken. 
 
 Just before reaching Medicine Hat, a branch line 
 runs olf due west to the coal mines of Lethbridge (see 
 illustration) on the Belly River, near Fort Macleod. 
 In the valley of the South Saskatchewan lies the rude, 
 scattered town of Medicine flat (see illustration), in 
 an area of mud and sand, from which, after crossing 
 the river, we are glad to reach the high grassy bluffs 
 again, deeply marked with the trail of the van- 
 ished buffalo. Nothing is now seen, for miles and 
 miles, but great stretches of undulating prairie, with 
 occasional herds of cattle grazing on the knolls. In 
 
 this region of the cattle kings, however, we begin to 
 inhale the ozone of a high latitude, for on this, the 
 third of the prairie steppes, we approach the eastern 
 rlanks of the J<ockies. As we pass Crowfoot Station, 
 every eye on the train is strained to catch the first 
 glimpse of the mighty mountain:! that shut in this 
 great, green ocean of prairie. Before we come to 
 (ileichea, they are descried in the far distance, for wt 
 are yet fifty miles from Calgary, wliich lies near their 
 base, though Calgary itself is thirtyhve hundred feet 
 above the sea. Speeding on, by the tree-girt banks of 
 the Bow River, the snowy peaks of the Rockies come 
 more sharply into view, while as we attain the high 
 plateau on which Calgary stands, the mountains are 
 seen to extend across the horizon and form an appar- 
 ently impassable barrier. 
 
 Calgary will be found an experience quite novel to 
 the traveller. The region about is the native heath of 
 the warlike Blackfeet and the great Ranch country, 
 where the cow-boy, gaily attired and well-mounted, is 
 in his glory. Nowhere will one see such horsemanship 
 or a more free and picturescjue life. The Indians, too, 
 will be found in the saddle, clad in bright blankets and 
 mounted on small piebald and parti-coloured ponies. 
 The town, with all its nultiform and reckless life, is 
 usually (juiet and orderly, the Mounted Police, here 
 as elsewhere in the Territories, acting as efficient and 
 assuring preservers of thi* peace. The climate of this 
 
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68. 
 
 
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 Si ' 
 
 
 
 
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 if ' <- - 
 
 KAMLOOPS (BRITISH COLUMBIA) 
 
CANADA: FROM SKA TO SEA. 
 
 49 
 
 region is dciiglitl'ul. lliu " Clunook " wiiuis, wliich 
 blow warmly over the great ranching grounds, temper 
 the severity of even the coUlost winter, and eiudilu 
 cittle to graze on the nutritions grasses of the region 
 all the year round. The country, moreover, is well 
 watered and the foothills are clad with abundant 
 timber. Coal, also, is plentiful. 
 
 Leaving Calgary, which is twenty-two hundred and 
 sixty miles from Montreal, the trend of the line is 
 steadily upward for another hundred miles until wo 
 reach the summit of the first range of tiio KocUies, 
 Northward from Calgary stretch the magnificent 
 ranching districts of Alberta and Athabasca, richly 
 watered by the nninqrcms streams that seara their 
 way down the eastern Hank of the mountains. These 
 streams are the feeders of the two branches of the 
 Saskatchewan, and of the Athabasca and Peace Rivers, 
 which, after fertilizing the great plains through which 
 they course, find their outlet in the chill regions of the 
 Far North. The fertility of these districto, though 
 their latitude is high, is attested not only by the trend 
 on the map of the isothermal line, which includes, the 
 magnificent valley of the Peace River, but by the rich 
 results of practical farming and cattle-ranching on the 
 great area over which play the warm Chinook winds, 
 wooing the rich turf into fragrant blossom and flower. 
 Southward also stretches a fine ranching country, 
 along the base of the foothills, and across the boundary 
 
 line into Montana, liut we have no time or inclina- 
 tion to let these regions, however attractive they may 
 be, divert us from the absorbing interest that lies before 
 us, in the now unfolding gramleur of the ' ' Sea of Moun- 
 tains," into which we are about to plunge. Our view 
 of tho " 'i'hree Sisters," at Canmore, will whet the 
 appetite for what is yet to come, as wo pursue our 
 devious way through the defiles, and in and about the 
 rugged valleys, of the gr(;at backbone of the continent. 
 For a wiiile, the tortuous valley of the J5ow River, 
 along the terr.ices and gorges of which we are now 
 speeding, conceals the great specfncle from onr view. 
 Suddenly, however, the mountains burst upon us with 
 an indescribably thrilling and awe-inspiring effect — 
 the gloom of their deeply-crevassed sides contrasting 
 sharply with the sheen of their towering snow-capped 
 peaks. 
 
 The toilsome ascent of the mountains is happily 
 broken by the halt at Banff. Fiere the tourist, if he 
 is of our mind, will gladly break his journey and 
 sojourn for a time, that he may acquire not only a 
 pleasing memory of scenes of unrivalled beauty, but be 
 enabled to take a leisurely vievv of the mountains from 
 the perspective of the delightful Sanitarium which the 
 C. P. R. has here erected in the Canadian National 
 Park. It was a happy thought to establish this modern 
 un- monastic .'^t. Bernard, on its Pisgah eminence, 
 within view of one of the finest spectacles on the con- 
 
50 
 
 (. ANADA ; IllOM S1;A IO SI:A. 
 
 tinent, and girt a])out by a <nia(lrilatcral of mountains. 
 JBesides the attractions of tho hotul itself, which is 
 finely equipped and beautifully situated, overlooking 
 the well-timbered windings of the Bow River, there 
 are hrt sulphur springs of high medicinal value, with 
 swimming batlis, fisiiing and boating impedimenta, 
 carriage and saddle horses, and all the appointments 
 of a fashionable hostelry in a now famed mountain 
 resort. The National I'ark, which is a Government 
 enterprise, affords delight !ully invigorating drives, 
 amid scenes of wild and romantic beauty, "a dozen 
 mountain monarchs within view raising their heads a 
 mile or more above the hotel." Of these monarchs, 
 the Peak, Dnthill.and the Sulphur and Cascade Moun- 
 tains are the chief, towering aloft as high again as we, 
 at their base, are above the sea. Near to the hotel are 
 the Falls of the Spray River, and in the neighbourhood 
 is Devil's Head L ;ke, a glacier-fed body of water, some 
 fifteen miles long, in which there is good trout fishing 
 with a deep troll. 
 
 Continuing our journey westward, an hour's ride 
 brings us to Laggan, a little station which marks the 
 railway summit of the first range of the Rocky Moun- 
 tains, and is close to the boundary line between the 
 North-West Territories and British Columbia. Here 
 we are a mile above the Pacific Ocean, while the 
 mountains rear their heads another mile above us. 
 This elevation forma the watershed for the rivers 
 
 that, on the one side;, flow by the Columbia into the 
 I'acific, and, on the other, by the Saskatchewan into 
 Hudson's Bay» 
 
 ON "THE BACKBONE OF THE CON- 
 TINENT." 
 
 ROM the altitude we have reached, we begin 
 ^, |_^ coastward to descend, with the streams, the 
 >| V westernflanksof the main range of the Rockies, 
 L ' by the now famed cany<jn. known to engineers 
 and railway men as the Kicking Horse Pass (see illus- 
 tration). The air-brakes are now in requisition as we 
 dart down this rock-ribbed defile, the Kicking Horse 
 River running a race with us in the boulder-strewn 
 chasm at our side. Below, above, and around, tho 
 scene is one of memorable beauty. Crag rises above 
 crag, and gorge deepens upon gorge, as the train, 
 sturdily clinging to tho mountain side, descends to the 
 river valley which here suddenly opens on the view, 
 and from which Mount Stephen shoots up, in awesome 
 grandeur, eight thousand feet over our head (see 
 illustration). Here, fifty miles from Banff, is the 
 station of Field, with its pretty chalet-like hotel, the 
 Mount Stephen House, a resort of artists who are in 
 search of Alpine subjects for thi; brush. 
 

 
 'fy»^ 
 
 •■•ji*^:-"%5- 
 
 
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 ^,^i^ 
 
 
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 'M-: i^^ 
 
 ^ '^'i" ^ 
 
 CISCO-C.PR. BRIDGE 
 
FRASER CANON- SHOWING FOURTUNNELS 
 
CANADA: FHOM SI:A TO SIi.\. 
 
 51 
 
 A two htjurs' run, over fifty miles of indescribably 
 grand scenery, transports the traveller from Field to 
 Donald, where the lover of the picturesque will be 
 tempted to leave the train, to view the beauties of the 
 rohnnbia Valky and pay a visit to the Kootenay 
 Lakes. Donald is also an attraction to the miner and 
 to the sportsman. In the Kootenay District there are 
 valuable gold and sil\er mines, which the railway ncjw 
 aff irds facilities for opening up. For the sportsman 
 the attraction is caribou, the big-horned mountain 
 sheep, and the black and the grizzly bear. At Donald 
 the railway crosses the Columbia River, and, following 
 its waters for a while, cleaves its way through laby- 
 rinths of rock until it enters the Beaver Valley, and 
 begins the ascent of the Selkirk Mountains, the second 
 great range of the Rockies. An hour is spent in 
 climbing the forest-clad flanks of the Selkirks, from 
 the engineering summit of which rise a profusion of 
 snowy peaks of dazzling beauty and of infinitely varied 
 form. Gaining the summit of the Selkirks, via Roger's 
 i'ass (see illustration), the view will be found, if pos- 
 sible, to transcend in grandeur that which we have 
 witnessed from the railroad summit of the Rockies. 
 Here we are in the region of the glaciers, hundreds of 
 feet thick, and therefore the formation of ages, and 
 covering an area, it is estimated, nearly forty miles 
 square. Switzerland, here, has in the routes of modern 
 travel its only rival. In the heart of this magnificent 
 
 region, at *hc; foot of " Sir Donald," a huge ice-clad 
 peak which rises eight thousand feet above the snow- 
 shedded track, the r^'lway company have erected the 
 " Glacier House" (see illustration), another tempting 
 halting-place, within a .short walk of the Great Glacier. 
 Scarcely a more picturesque spot could be chosen for 
 its site, or one that commands a greater array of 
 thrilling views of mountain peak, of cascaded gorge, 
 or excoriated glacier. 
 
 Leaving the Glacier Range of the Selkirks, a hun- 
 dred and fifty miles' run brings us across the CJold 
 and Coast Ranges of the Rockies to Kaniloops, in the 
 valley of the South Thompson River. The engineer- 
 ing difficulties of the early part of this run will strike 
 the tourist with amazement. The curves and loops of 
 the road, along the mountain slojies, and over the 
 winding waters of the Illicilliwaet, put to severe test 
 the composure of the spectatca-, though they add to 
 the charm and grandeur of the scenery. On the 
 way, the Columbia River is again met with, and the 
 lovely waters of the Shuswap Lakes. P)Ut we have 
 now crossed the main elevations of the Rockies, and 
 are making our way by the Fraser River to the Coast. 
 Here let us pause to say a word or two of the great 
 Province of British Columbia ere we terminate our 
 long journey across the continent. 
 
62 
 
 tANADA; !• KOM SKA TO SKA. 
 
 BRITISH COLUMBIA AND ITS 
 RESOURCES. 
 
 ^^^IIOUGH our course through the mountain de- 
 (jl^r iii) tiles, from Stephem to Kamloops, has led us 
 7{l 'If over nearly three hundred miles of the domain 
 ^'' of British Columbia, we have so far seen little 
 of the Province as a habitable colony and a surpass- 
 iiv^ly rieh field for settlement. At Kamloops, Nature 
 siill wears a ru^'ged aspect ; though even in the moun- 
 tains her mien softens, in the lovely fertile valleys that 
 lie between the ridges, and much of the country north 
 and south of where we now are is fit for agriculture. 
 Tlie Province of liritish Columbia has an area of 
 3)0,000 S([uare miles. It extends from Juan de Fuca 
 Straits and the parallel of .|(j', which constitutes the 
 international boundary line, to the meridian 60' north ; 
 and from the Pacific to the meridian of 120° west and 
 the eastern ridge of the Rockies. With the exception 
 of the coast line, one-half of the Province, namely, 
 from the meridian 54' to its northern boundary, is as 
 yet unexplored. Little of the colony was known to 
 the ken of man prior to the explorations of Captains 
 Vancouver and Cook. Until a hundred years ago the 
 Culf of Ceorgia and the coast-line northward was as 
 much an unknown region as was the St, Lawrence, tv\^ ■ 
 and-a-half centuries earlier, to the St. Malo mariner 
 who first threaded its waters. Nor before this period 
 
 had the region been approached from the east. In 
 the closing years of the Dominion of France in North 
 .\merica, the Verandryes had crossed the plains, and 
 were the first of Europeans to see the Rockies. Fifty 
 years later, Mackenzie,oneof the partners of the North - 
 West Fur Co., discovered the great river that bears his 
 name, and, crossing the mountains by the Peace River 
 Pass, explored a route to the Pacific, .\dventure was 
 slow, however, to follow in his footsteps, if we except 
 the enterprise of the Scotch fur trader who discovered 
 and gave his name to the Fraser River. In 1843 the 
 Hudson Bay Company established a trading-post at 
 Victoria, and fifteen years later the British I'arlia- 
 ment passed an .Vet to provide for tlie government of 
 Ik-itish Columbia. In 1866 ^'ancouver was added to 
 the Crown colony on the mainland, and maintaining 
 the name given to the united colonies, the Province 
 was five years afterwards incorporated with the Do- 
 minion. 
 
 British Columbia first attracted attention as a 
 mining country. This occurred in 1857, on the expiry 
 of the exclusive privilege of the Hudson Ijay Com- 
 pany to trade in furs. Some of the old employes of 
 the Company had discovered gold in the Cariboo dis- 
 trict, on the upper Fraser, and news of tliis reaching 
 San F'.ancisco, a wave of excitement swept over the 
 whole Pacific coast and brought on its crest shiploads 
 of gold-seekers and mining experts. Since 1861, it is 
 
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56. 
 
 YALE (BRITISH COLUMBIA) 
 
CANADA : FROM SEA TO SKA. 
 
 63 
 
 said, that fully forty millions worth of gold has been 
 taken out of the Cariboo region alone, while its annual 
 product is still over half a million of dollars. Else- 
 where in the Province placer mining is actively pur- 
 sued, for the country is veined in all directions by 
 rivers and streams rich in auriferous metals. Another 
 great source of economical wealth in the Mountain 
 Province is coal, the mining of which, particularly at 
 Nanaimo, on Vancouver Island, has of late become a 
 vast industry. The Nanaimo coal is an excellent 
 quality of bituminous coal, and is largely shipped, in 
 spite of a high tariff, to San Francisco and the sea- 
 ports of the south, and is also freely drawn upon by 
 ocean-going steamers. Coal is also found in extensive 
 beds on the mainland, and a fine vein of anthracite 
 coal is known to enrich the Queen Charlotte Islands, to 
 the north of Vancouver. 
 
 The lumber trade is another large industry in 
 British Columbia. The resources of the Province in 
 this respect is practically unlimited, and little of the 
 trade iti yet developed. Everyone has heard of the 
 almost fabulous proportions of the trees of British 
 Columbia. For bridge, wharf, and ship-building, for 
 spars and masts, and other commercial purposes, no- 
 where is such timber to be found as the Province sup- 
 plies. The Douglas fir is the monarch of the woods; 
 here it grows to the height of 300 feet, with a corres- 
 ponding girth. Oak, spruce, cedar, hemlock, maple, 
 
 the larch, the yew, and the mountain ash, are all indi- 
 genous to the Province, as are almost all the varieties 
 (f English shrubs and flowering plants. Fabulous also 
 are the fishing resources of this favoured I'rovince. 
 Its estuaries and rivers literally swarm w ith fish, and 
 fish-canning is one of its chief and most profitable 
 industries. The salmon, which is of a variety of 
 species, and weighs from ten to seventy pounds each, 
 is the king of British Columbian rivers. Oolachan, a 
 small oily fish, of the size of a sardine, is, with the 
 native herring, another large and valuable yield of its 
 waters. 
 
 The agricultural areas of British Columbia are 
 nowhere large or centralized. Still the Province pos- 
 sesses, in the aggregate, a large amount of araljle land, 
 though in scattered areas. The railway, and the open- 
 ing up of communication in the various sections of the 
 Province, now enable the settler to get at good farm 
 lands and to reach a market with his crops. The 
 facilities for settlement are good, and the Government 
 is liberal in dealing with the settler. Much of the land 
 is heavily timbered, and some of it, on the mountain 
 terraces particularly, requires irrigation. Consider- 
 able agricultural sections lie to tlie east of the Eraser 
 River, in the southern portion of the Province, also 
 to the west of that river, north of the 51st parallel. In 
 the Peace River district, on the river deltas, and on 
 Vancouver and Queen Charlotte Islands, are also con- 
 
54 
 
 CANADA : I'KOM SKA T(J SKA. 
 
 siderable tracts of rich farming lands. Tlie mild 
 climate of British Columbia is exceedingly favour- 
 able to the raising of all the cereals, root crops, and 
 fruit that belong to the temperate zone. Tiie climate 
 indeed, it we except the excessive rainfall on tlie main- 
 land. IS one of the greatest attractions of the Province. 
 It is much more moderate and equable than in the 
 other provinces of tne Dominion. Thisi due mainly 
 to the influence of what is technically known as the 
 "Japan current," a great volume of warm water which 
 courses across the Pacific and sweeps southward along 
 the British Columbia coast. Particularly delightful 
 is the cbmate in the insular portions of the Province. 
 On Vancouver and the Queen Charlotte Islands the 
 climate resembles that of the south of England: the 
 rrinfall is much less than on the mainland, while snow 
 is a rarity. In the valley of the Fraser the climate 
 IS also mild, and much drier than in higher altitudes. 
 As you go north, the extremes ot climate are more 
 marked and the winter becomes more characteristically 
 Canadian. As a whole, the climate, however, is most 
 delightful, — the heat in r-ummer rarely rising above 
 75° Fahr., and the cold in winter seldom falling below 
 the freezing point 
 
 THROUGH THE FRASER CANYONS TO 
 THE COAST. 
 
 ^IST:' T Kamloops, where v.e have made a rather long 
 V/vvV stay, the tourist will find that he has not yet 
 ^;//,\i escaped from the mountains. The town is 
 '^i-^ finely situated near Kamloops Lake, opposite 
 the junction of the north and south branches of the 
 Thompson River, and close to an old Hudson Bay 
 post, round which have congregated numerous settle- 
 ments. These lie in the plateau between the Gold and 
 Cascade or Coast ranges of the Rockies. We are yet 
 two hundred and forty miles from Port Moody, and 
 have before us a run by no means devoid of interest. 
 The country is still wild and rugged, and retains much 
 of the features of the region we have been passing 
 through. Huge parapets of rock continue to frown 
 upon us, while a perfect chaos of waters seethes and 
 •.exes its way through yawning chasms at our feet. 
 Near Lytlon (named in honour of Lord Lytton, for- 
 merly British Colonial Secretary), the Thompson 
 River precipitates itself into the rent gorges of the 
 Fraser, and until the latter reaches Yale pandemonium 
 seems to be let loose. 
 
 Crossing the river near Lytton, we enter the ter- 
 rible Fraser Canyon (see illustration of the Four 
 Tunnels), and sup, for about four hours, on a feast of 
 horrors. We are now in the heart of the Cascade 
 
NEW. WESTMINSTER B.C. 
 
VANCOUVER. B.C. 
 
CANADA : FROM SEA TO SEA. 
 
 55 
 
 Range, and seem to be entering a series of subterranean 
 passages leading to the Inferno. At one moment we 
 are poised on the face of a dizzy cliff; at another, 
 we are crossing a lofty viaduct ; now we are in the 
 open ; anon we are rushing through the blackness of 
 darkness. At North Bend we come upon one of those 
 openings in the Cascades which are such a relief to 
 theappalling sensesof the traveller in passing through 
 the region. Here we find the Fraser Canyon House, 
 another of those pretty stopping-places which the 
 C.P.K. has happily erected for the comfort of sojourn- 
 ers by the way. Twenty-five miles further on is Yale 
 (see iHustration), the head of steamboat navigation on 
 the Fraser and the outlet of the Fraser canyon. The 
 town, which is one of the most important in the in- 
 terior of the Province, is situated in a most pictures(iuc 
 region, on the old Colonization road to the Cariboo 
 mines (see View [55] on the Cariboo River), and within 
 a hundred and ten miles from the mouth of the Fraser. 
 Here the traveller will be likely to make his first 
 acquaintance with the ubiijuitous Chinaman, and the 
 scarcely less ubiquitous redman of the mountain Pro- 
 vince. The former will probably be found re-washing 
 some abandoned gold-claim en the river, or doing 
 faithful domestic service at one or other of the 
 hotels of the town. The Indian, if he is not loung- 
 ing in stoic indifference, will most likely be netting 
 salmon. 
 
 Leaving Yale, the railway follows the general 
 direction of the Fraser, though only here and there 
 we get a glimpse of it and of the mountain spurs on 
 either side of the river. Fifteen miles below Yale is 
 the station of Hope, a prettily situated town on the 
 south side of the Fraser. Seventy miles below Hope 
 we reach New Westminster Junction ; while five miles 
 further on is Port Moody , and another five miles bring 
 us to Vancouver. The last hundred miles' run, from 
 Yale to the coast, passes through a rough, heavily- 
 wooded country, broken occasionally by bits of marsh 
 land in the vicinity of the streams that flow into the 
 Fraser, and here and there by a small farm clearing. 
 Even to the end of our journey are we reminded of 
 the mountains, for we find them swelling up to hold 
 in their embrace the tide-waters of the Pacific, as 
 they seek a haven in the sheltering arms of Bm-rard 
 Inlet. At the head of this land-locked basin, about 
 seventeen miles from its mouth, is Port Moody. Be- 
 hind it is a background of forest, composed chiefly of 
 hemlock, spruce, and the giant Douglas fir. The forest 
 about is being rapidly cleared to give the railway the 
 needed facilities, n addition to those at Vancouver 
 City, for its western terminal trade. 
 
 Though yesterday but a city on paper, Vancouver 
 is to-day rapidly becoming the Liverpool of the 
 British w^aters of the Pacific. At its wharves we 
 sh;ill find evidences of a commerce which is already 
 
56 
 
 CANADA : I'ltO.M SKA TO SI:a. 
 
 assuming mammolli prc^portions. Here are moored 
 the magnificent stenniers which the great railway 
 company has put on the route over tlie Pacific to 
 Japan and China, with a throng of coasting steamers 
 and sailing ships trading with near and distant ports. 
 Many and varied are their cargoes, — teas, silks, fish, 
 seal-skins, coal and other minerals, and timljer. With 
 such activity at the docks and wharves, the city itself 
 must soon grow and spread over the place. Already 
 streets, with fine stores and public buildings, are being 
 rapidly constructed ; while the city possesses, in 
 " Hotel Vancouver," a hostelry that even now vies 
 with the leading hotels of tlu east. Situated on high 
 ground, near the centre of the town, a magnificent 
 panoramic view is to be had from the hotel windows 
 and galleries, of the unique scency of the city's sur- 
 roundings. Off to the north, si^read out in grar.d 
 array, are the purple masses of the Cascade Moun- 
 tains. South-east, in the far distance, looms up the 
 hoar head of Mount Baker, North-west is the Gulf 
 of Georgia, and beyond its gleaming waters rise in 
 stately grandeur the dark-blue mountains of Van- 
 couver. In another direction, across the broad delta 
 of the muddy Fraser, are the gleaming peaks of the 
 Olympian range that stretch far into Washingtcni 
 Territory ; while in the foreground the white wings of 
 commerce are pluming themselves in tiie Straits of 
 Juan de Fuca for their flight over the waters of 
 
 the Pacific. The scene on every hand is well-nigh 
 matchless. 
 
 Some seven miles from Vancouver is the city of 
 New Westminster, tlie former capital of the Province. 
 It lies on the north liank of the Fraser River, fifteen 
 miles above its mouth. It has had long the start of 
 the mushroom terminus of the national railway ; and 
 though the prospects of Vancouver City are great, 
 New Westminster must long hold its own with its 
 chief rival on the mainland. New Westminster is 
 already a large commercial centre, and the trade of 
 the Fraser River at least must remain tributary to it. 
 Lumber and canned-fish are its chief exports. 
 
 Between the mainland and the Island of Vancou- 
 ver is the island-gemmed Gulf of Georgia, with its 
 north-western expansion of Queen Cliarlotte Sound. 
 At Vancouver City the Gulf of Georgia is about nine 
 miles wide. Its balmy, placid waters play in and 
 about the thousand estuaries, fiords and inlets th.it 
 chafe the coast line on either side. Such ruggedness 
 of coast scenery as is to be seen in British Columbia 
 has perhaps no equal save in the case of the sea-front 
 of Norway. From the international boundary lin(i to 
 Alaska the shore.i are thickly indented with narro-^r 
 deep reaches of water, bordered in most instance; by 
 perpendicular walls of rock. The picturesi]ne charm 
 of a coasting voyage in these waters it is almost im 
 possible to exaggerate. Vancouver Island is nearly 
 
GO 
 
 
 ,^1 "^ry^. ^ ■ r^ 
 
 VICTORIA B.C FROM GOVERNMENT BUILDINGS. 
 
CANADA : FROM SEA TO SEA. 
 
 67 
 
 three hundred miles lon^ and from thirty to fifty 
 miles broad. It is heavily timbeied, and is rich in 
 coal and other minerals, A range of mountains ex- 
 tends the whole length of the island, the peaks of which 
 rise to an elevation of nine thousand feet. Victoria, 
 the chief city and seat of Government of the Province, 
 occupies a commanding commercial position at the 
 south-eastern extremity of the island. It has a com- 
 paratively large but mixed population of whites, In- 
 dians, and Chinese. Its streets and public buildings 
 bespeak the enterpriseof anold and thriving commun- 
 ity There arecharming drives in the neighbourhood, 
 and the genial climate of the island decks with a rare 
 beauty its settlt-d and cultivated parts. It has a fine 
 land-locked harbour, though affording accommodation 
 only for vessels of moderate water-draught What 
 Victoria lacks in this latter respect, is made good in 
 the magnificent harbour and roadstead of Esquimalt. 
 This fine seaport is within four miles of Victoria, and 
 is the naval station for the British fleet in the North 
 Pacific (see illustration of the Government dry-dock 
 Esquimalt). 
 
 But here we must bring our itinerary of the trip 
 across the continent to a close. To the traveller who 
 has accompanied us in these wanderings from the 
 Atlantic to the Pacific, the service we have endeavored 
 to render in these pages may not have been much. 
 
 Whatever it has been, the writer has sought not to 
 weave a romance, but to narrate the truth. In our 
 limited space we could only, here and there, alight 
 Mpon a few ledges of fact, and talk, uninterestingly we 
 fear, of things upon the surface. Matters political did 
 not seem to come within the scope of our little work, 
 consequently, upon matters political we have not 
 touched. The field for the discussion of such topics 
 is a wide and interesting one, but it is not here. 
 Canada, it may be said, is but slowly making her his 
 tory ; yet if she is true to herself— this at least may 
 be affirmed— she has a field in which to make it. What 
 she is most in need of is population, and with it freer 
 access to the markets of her own continent. With 
 these secured, no bounds may be set to the measure 
 of her prosperity. In the intelligent and industrious 
 communities of the seven fair provinces of the Do- 
 minion, Canada has the raw material for a future 
 great nation. May Heaven send the fit potters wisely 
 to shape and fashion it ! 
 
 But we take leave of our task and say farewell to 
 those in whose company we have so pleasantly jour- 
 neyed. Again we express regret for the shortcomings 
 of this litt!3 book. Whatever they are, and however 
 we have failed to interest, may we not un^e that it is 
 something for the traveller to have seen with his own 
 eyes Canada's wide domain — Britain's " Greater 
 Britain ? "