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Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont film6s en commenpant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaftra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole — ^signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbole y signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre film^s d des taux de reduction diff^rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul cliche, il est film6 d partir de Tangle supArieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n^cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m6thode. errata to > pelure, on d 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 mm KAHsjyi cinr o^ikmmm ■i u S*Wxta p^ RiMite'' Ki^lway. tlniMi ^ipi, EgWiH <%, «iii:«S SPwW ^I^^^wP W w^Pi^i** «afcaj- --.«.-. ..,j.,.w. . — ,..t...j ^ , ,...>, -^..^.-.. I.- The j ^CMGANr^NTRA L R AILROAD ' The Niagara Falls Route." Hi .',1 ■)• HENRY B. LEDYARD, President and General Manager, Detroit. A. MACKAY, General Freight Agent, Detroit. E. C. BROWN, General Superintendent, Detroit. O. W. RUGGLES, CJeneral Passenger and Ticket Agent, Chicago. > \ GENERAL OFFICES: Michigan Central Passenger Station, foot of Third Street, Detroit. Grand Central Depot, New York City. Adams Express Building, Chicago. 3 " The Michigan Central is the only real ' Niagara Palls Route ' in the country. t is the only railroad that gives a satisfactory view of the Falls. Every day train stops from five to ten minutes at Falls View, which is what the name indicates — a splendid point from which to view the great cataract. It is right on the brink of the grand canyon, at the Canadian end of the Horseshoe, and every part of the Falls is in plain sight. Even if he does not get out of his car, he can see the liquid wonder of the world from the window or the platform. This is the Michigan Central's strongest hold on popular favor, its greatest advantage, its chief attraction. So long as the waters of that mighty river thunder down to the awful depths below, so long as the rush and roar, the surge and foam, and prismatic spray of nature's cataractic masterpiece remain, to delight and awe the human soul, thousands and tens of thousands of beauty-lovers and grandeur-worshipers will journey over the only railroad from which it can be seen. There is but one Niagara Falls on earth, and but one direct great railway to it." — Col. V. Donan in St. Louis Spettatar. '^m mifSBirrv.- rt'- fjow to I^ee Niagara. The visitor having first reached his hotel as the basis of his explorations, he should first, by means of this map and the descriptions which he will find in the following pages, some of which he njay have read prior to his arrival, obtain a clear idea of the geography and topography of the Falls and surrounding country. He should then take Prospect Park and the walk up the Upper Rapids along the shore of the Niagara Reservation, passing then over the bridge to (loat Island, and aroutTd the island by the upper s'ore to the Three Sisters, and down to the brink of the Horseshoe Fall, returning by way of Luna Island. Having thus obtained a view of the Falls and Rapids from above, of the American side, we will cross the Suspension Foot Bridge and go up through the Canadian International Park to the brink of the Horseshoe, reviewing the entire face of the great cataract. Should his hotel be on the Canadian side he will, of course, reverse this programme. He should then tiescend to the Inclined Railway from Prospect Park, viewing the American Fall from its northern end, and take the trip by the "Maid of the Mist" to the Horse- shoe Fall, returning either to the ferry landing on the Canada side or to his point of departure, to the foot of the Inclined Railway. The Cave of the Winds should be visited by means of Hiddel's Stairs, and the Horseshoe Fall below Table Rock. This done with all attending details, there remain the picturesque views of the River Gorge below, the Cantilever and Suspension Bridges, the Whirlpool Rapids, and the Whirlpool itself, the magnificent views from the ancient lake terrace at Queenstown Heights or above Lewiston, and from the high bluffs on the Canada side, where Falls View overlooks the cataract. In all this the experienced traveler will trust tt) his own legs as far as possible. But however thorough a pedestrian he may be, he must still avail himself of other means of locomotion, and in spite of contrary rumor he will find hack and other fares quite as reasonable here as at other places of resort. Admission Fees and Tolls. Cave of the Winds (with guide and dress) $i oo Inclined Railway (Prospect Park) lo Behind Hortieshoe Falls, with guide and dress, Canada side 50 Museum 50 Whirlpool Rapids (either side) 50 Wliirlpool (either side) 50 Crossing New .Suspension Bridge ... 25 Crossing New Suspension Bridge, extra for two-horse carriage 25 Crossing Railway Suspension Bridge (orer and return) 10 Crossing Railway Suspension Bridge, extra for two-horse carriage 25 Ride in van around Goat Island 10 Ride in van around the entire reservation, with privilege of stopping ofF at anv or every point of interest, and continuing the ride in following vans 25 " Maid of the Mist," from foot of Inchned Railway to Horseshoe Falls, landing on Canada side and return 50 Niagara Falls and Suspension Bridge Street Railway Company, from Soldiers' Monument, Niagara Falls, to Suspension Bridge, fare 5 cents Round trip to the Whirlpool l^Apids, Canada side, via old Suspension Bridge and horse-car line 53 Round trip to Whirlpool R .:'i !■ . Ainerican side, via cars 45 Round trip to Whirlpool, A>as ^can side, via horse-car and transfer carriages 55 Rates of Fare Allowed by Law in the Village of Niagfara Falls, N. Y. For the Use and Hire of Carriages where no express contract is made therefor. For carrying one passenger and ordinary baggage from one place to another in the village (o 50 Each additional passenger and ordinary baggage 25 For carrying one passenger and ordinary baggage from any point in this village to any point in the village of Suspension Bridge i 00 Each additional passenger and ordinary baggage 50 Each additional piece of baggage, other than ordinary baggage i3 Children under tliree years of age, free. Over three years and under fourteen years, half price. Ordinary baggage is defined to be one trunk and one bag, hat or bandbox, or other small parcel. For carrying one or more passengers, in the same carriage, from any point in this village to any p)oint within five miles of the limits of the villagfe, at the rate of $1.50 for each hour occupied, except that in every instance where such carriage shall be drawn by a single horse the fare therefor shall be at the rate of $1 for each hour occupied. Vli^- - ''■ w^wwi HUSH nmuiwiit- liurning Spring Kilt, IMU), by lUmi. MuKally A. to., Uap fuUluhura, Lhiuuco. J^ ?b Table of Contents. " The Niagara Falls Route," from Citv to Surf, ''"" Niagara Falls, by Anthony Trollope, - . ! ^ Niagara, by Henry Howard Brownell, - . ^ Niagara Falls, by George Wm. Frederick Howard, Earl of Derby, " - ci Niagara, by William C. Richards, Voyage au Niagara, par Charles Bigot, . l^ Le Niagara, PoIimk par Louis Frechette, g, EiN Besuch der Niagara-Falle, von Frederick Bodenstedt, - - - 65 Niagara, Gedicht von Frederick Bodenstedt g- The Cantilever Bridge, and How it was Built, - gg Niagara in Winter, by Halley, Taylor and Tissandier, - - - - 73 The St. Lawrence River. -------70 The Adirondacks. • - . . ' From Albany to Boston, ---..... The White Mountains. ... The Luxury of Travel. ... ' - . 100 Z^y^ THE BEST- ^ ACCIDENTS OF * Travel. Sport, or Business »WE INSURKD »a»IN«T BY M: ^-'^■-iii^ ^^^ -Ar- P\lM Aoeident Company of Amerfca, Largest in the World; W I BEST OF LI FECO MPANIESM Rates as low as mill permanently aecurel FULL PAWEKT of policies. I European Travel and Residence ' permitted without extra charge. 1 On ACCinEST rOLICISS the Full ^Principal Sum -will be paid In case \ of loss of both feet, both hands, a \ hand and a foot, or the entire sight \ of both eyes, by accident. One-Third the Principal Sum wiU \ -be paid for loss of a single hand or foot. .Baa Heaourrem to pay AT OITCE I tfc« moat eitortnoua tnaaa of claims I that even great railroad and I ateamboat aeeidenta can bring I upon it. Pays AI'Ii CI^AIMB *m- ' mediately on receipt of aatiafae- r *ory proofa. All poHeiea eoutain liberal Jf on- forfeiture jroviaiona. a. BATTCIISON. puts. ROOMtK OBHUI*. SlC. JOHN C. MORiii*. AwrttKe. —■ A.ociP»*y Js Tyrmcj The Travelers r>- — -!^Ksa-aiw____ Chicago from the Laka. "THE NIAGARA FALLS ROUTE" FROM CITY TO SURF. UVE times a day one may see a throng of travelers gathered within the walls of the Michigan Central Passenger Station, at. the foot of Lake Street, in Chicago, as the hour approaches for one of the finely appointed express trains of this favorite line to pull out on its rapid journey to the rising sun. All classes of the popuhition are found there, and representatives of every nation and every people of the globe ; but, in the summer-time, from the first appearance of civic dust and heat, the predominating element is the summer tourist,— quiet, well dressed, intelligent, knowing the best places to go to and the best means of getting there. For the American, man or woman, is a traveler, and knows how to travel, and, finding himself or herself at that wonderful centre of teeming life and industry, the Garden City of the Lakes, goes eastward by the Michigan Central, " The Niagara Falls Route," to the thousand places of natural beauty and sub- limity, of fashion, of health and of trade, that crowd the eastern and northern portions of our country. And grouped here about the long train of superb coaches led by the iron horse of glossy coat, powerful, and quivering in readiness for the race like a thing of life, the scene is one of interesting activity. The pyramid of baggage rapidly disappears in the portals of the capacious baggage car; the uniformed conductor shouts "All aboard ! " the last farewells are hastily spoken ; the iron horse snorts as he leaps forward toward the mountains and the sea, and off we go. The traveler usually sees but the seamy side of the cities he passes through by rail. Not so of Chicago, as he looks through the clear plate-glass of the Wagner Palace Cars of the Michigan Central. For miles, as he speeds rapidly along, he sees on the one side the lovely lake, placid, rippled or storm-tossed, according to its varying moods ; on the other, verdant lawns and blooming parterres, palatial mansions and villas half hidden in trees and (») i I ii niim i Miin aagJWP''^ 10 FROM CITY TO SURF. shrubbery, telling of the wealth, the luxury and the taste of the wonderful city arisen from its ashes. Then come the charming suburbs of Hyde Park and Woodlawn Park, the busy, interesting town of Pullman, on Calumet Lake, and then the broad expanse of level country. We have a chance now to look about us, and, though the softly-cushioned seats of our ele- gant coach, replete with all the comforts and conveniences that ingenuity can suggest and skill can furnish, woo us to luxurious rest, we hunger, as do all travel- ers, and seek the Dining Car. We find it a palatial hotel on wheels, with all its appointments elegant and tasteful, scrupulously neat and clean. The accomplished chef pre- pares, and the active waiters serve, a sump, tuous and admirable meal that incites us to valiant trencher duty. We linger long at table, for the pleasure of a good dinner is enhanced by the charming panorama that glides swiftly by, and adjourn to the comfortable smoking-room of our palatial Sleeper to crown our enjoyment with the reveries of a cigar from the Dining Car's superbly stocked coffers. At Michigan City (fifty-eight miles from Chicago) we get picturesque glimpses of Lake Michigan, bordered by curious lofty sand-dunes, and with a sturdy-looking light-house at the entrance of the harbor. Ten miles farther we take our last view of the great lake at New Buffalo, worthy of note only as the junction of the Chicago & West Michigan Railway, which takes through cars and sleepers of the Michigan Central through the great fruit region of Michigan to Grand Rapids and Muskegon, famous for their furniture factories, plaster quarries and lumber yards. Three Oaks (seventy-five miles) is a handsome, prosperous village, with encour- aging manufacturing prospects, developed by the famous featherbone in.dustry. Passing Buchanan, we soon reach Niles, on the St. Joseph River, a handsome and well-built manufacturing city of nearly 5,000 inhab- a GiimpM of • Dining cu. itants, in the midst of a rich agricultural region. The Air Line Division to Jackson diverges here, and upon it, two miles beyond the town of Cassopolis, is the summer resort of Diamond Lake, full of natural beauty, with an emerald isle rising from its crystal 'THE NIAGARA FALLS ROUTE." 11 ' arisen from rk, the busy, ^nse of level )ok about us, s of our ele- with all the eniences that rest and skill 5 to luxurious do all travel- ing Car. We :el on wheels, ments elegant 3usly neat and ished chef pre- serve, a sump. It incites us to ig at table, for glides swiftly Dining C*r. ion to Jackson summer resort rom its crystal depths. From Dowagiac (107 miles) stages run to Sister Lakes, a delightful summering place, ten miles from the railroad. The hotel and cottages are located on an elevated pen- insula between Round and Crooked Lakes, covered wflh magnificent shade trees of the original forest. It is a favorite resort for the families of city business men, being within reach of Sunday visits, and marked by freedom, comfort and refine- ment. As we pass on through Michigan, we find all the way to Detroit River a rolling and pictur- esque country, full of fine farms, pretty villages and prosperous towns, with neat stations along the line. The country that the first surveyors pronounced utterly unfit for settlement and habitation has proved, under intelligent agricul- ture, to be of wonderful fertility. Kalamazoo (142 miles), a re- cently incorporated city, with 14,000 inhabitants, is regu- larly laid out, with broad, well-shaded streets, and contains many fine business blocks, costly residences and numerous manufactories, which, in 1886. turned out products valued at more than $6,000,000. The spacious and imposing buildings of the State Lunatic Asylum, a Baptist College and Female Seminary are located here. Nowhere does celery grow larger, whiter, more tender or more delicate in flavor than in the deep black soil about the city, and nowhere is that tooth- some vegetable grown more extensively. The Grand Rapids & Indiana Railroad crosses the line at this ._^^__«^ - ^ point, and a branch of the '^^'^^IKP^*''***^^ "*'**"'*" ^•"*'*' ^'•*°"' •*•'•"•""»• Michigan Central runs out forty miles to South Haven, a charming summer resort on the shore of Lake Michigan. Battle Creek (165 miles) is a well built city of 10,000 inhabitants, at the confluence of Battle Creek and Kalamazoo River. It is famous for its splendid water-power and its manufactures, — particularly of carriages, wagons, threshing machines, agricultural imple- ments and flour, — which are more extensive than those of any other town of its size in the world. It is also the headquarters of the Seventh-day Adventists, who have here their large publishing house, printing books, newspapers and periodicals in a dozen languages. THE nia(;ara falls routk. 18 m Vt o o o Si ^.■> c o ^.—i-.m an excellent college and a magnificent sanitarium i)f high repute, occupying a noble, elevated site. Marshall (178 miles) is a pretty little city of 4,000, famous for its flour, for the valley of the Kalamazoo is a noted wheat region. Some of the finest stock-farms in the State are in this vicinity, and the herds of magnificent thoroughbred horses, cattle and sheep, with pedigrees of royal length, are beautiful to behold. Albion (190 miles) is pleasantly lo- cated at the confluence of the two branches of the Kalamazoo, in one of the richest farming sections of the State, ships flour of a high reputa- tion, and is the site of an excellent Methodist Episcopal College. We leave the river at Parma (199 miles), and in a few minutes stop at Jackson (2io miles), a busy manufacturing city of over 20,000 people, on the Grand River, at the intersection of six railroads. One division of the Michigan Central runs down the valley of this river, ninety-four miles to Grand Rapids, the second city of the State, while another runs northward, through Lansing, the State capital, to Saginaw, Bay City and Mackinaw, Summer CotUgtt tt South Htvtn. MIehlgan Cmlral PuMngar Station it Jaokaon. on the strait of the same name; and a third forms the Air Line to Niles, running through the thriving towns of Homer, Union City, Three Rivers and Cassopolis. Through cars from Detroit run over the former, and from Chicago over the second. The city is regularly laid out, and substantially built. It lies near the edge of the coal deposits of the State, and ■•-rr'-^rwa^*!.*"- \T\ W ) u to i tlill i ammaims^tt^iii^'- "»W im r-, Am "THK NIAGARA KAI.IS ROUTE. 16 the mines cuii be (teen from the curs. The spacious stone buildings of the State Peniten- tiary are located here, and are well worth visiting, the institution being a model one in all respects. The Michigan tlentral Passenger Station hert- was the finest in the State, until the construction of the company's fir.e building in Hetroit. Ann Arbok (34K miles) is built on both sides of the Huron River, has a population of 8,000, and is noted as the site of the University of Michigan. This is one of the leading institutions of learning in the West, and, with no distinction of .sex, very low fees, and a high standard of scholarship, attracts students from ail parts of the country. It has eighty-three pro- fessors, and 1,380 stu- dents in all its depart- ments, under the presi- dency of Prof. James B. Angell, LL. J). The grounds are extensive. UnlvMlly of MichigM. and thickly planted with trees. University Hall, occupied by the departments of literature, science and art, is 347 feet long and 140 feet deep. There are numerous other buildings, including a new fire-proof library, large and valuable museums, and, on a hill a mile distant, a fine observatory, but no dormitories. The Union School building is one of the finest in the State, and accom- modates a thousand pupils. There are five mineral springs in the city, over one of which has been erected a large water-cure establishment, an opera house and several fine churches. The new Michi- gan Central Passenger Sta- tion, recently built of lime- stone, is one of the finest specimens of modern architecture applied to railroad structures. Leaving; Ann Arbor, the train follows and frequently crosses the Huron River, the — " Bright, swift river of the birch canoe, Threading the prairie ponds of Washtenung," — affording many snatches of lovely scenery, despite the rapidity with which it passes them. Ypsilanti (256 miles) is a thriving city of 5,300 inhabitants, noted for its extensive flour and paper mills and other factories, its valuable saline springs and excellent sanitarium. """^^^^ A^^nAtooiq le FROM (IIY l() SURF. Ik.-":'. '■^wv The State Normal School, with nearly cijjht hundred HtudentH, is located here, and here aUo many Detroit business men huve their suburban homes. 'I'he city \h prettily located on the Huron River, which affords ample water-|)ower and lovely bits of scenery. Df.tkoi r (385 miles) is reached in another hour, and the traveler finds it a flourishing, prosperous city of 150,000 inhabitants, whose seven miles of magnificent water front, lined with shipping and crowded with gigantic elevators, clanging foundries and smoke-plumed furnaces, give ample reason for the fine business blocks, imposing public buildings, elegant churches, and magnificent broad avenues of palatial residences not always found in cities of more pretension, 'i'he central point of the city, from which the avenues radiate, is the Campus Mar- tius, where stood the old frontier fort built by Cadillac in 1701, and in which Pontiac besieged the English for eleven months, — surrendered by Hull, and won again by Harrison. Facing it is the City Hall, a hand- some structure in the Italian style, ornamented by marble statues of men famous in the long and event- ful annals of the city. Opposite is a fine monument in granite and bronze to the memory of Michigan's dead in the war of the rebellion, and an artistic drinking fountain pre- sented to the city by ex-Governor Bagley, to whom Michigan owes no inconsiderable portion of her fame and prosperity. The guide book states that " the freight depot of the Michigan Central is one of the most noteworthy structures in the city. It stands on the wharf, and consists of a single room 1,250 feet long, and lo;^ feet wide, covered by a self-sustaining roof of corrugated iron." The new Passenger Station of the same road is probably the finest building of its kind in the State, and is one of the architectural features of the city. The visitor to Detroit should not omit the United States Marine Hospital, just above the city, which commands a fine view of the Canada shore; Fort Wayne, a bastioned redoubt on the river bank three miles below; Belle Isle, ^VMr.^ ||[;hi(jAn(lntfml n n n o I T 5^:>^i\v*' ■meansmBMBK IHK NIAGARA FALLS ROUTE." ir re, ami here etlily located ery. u nourishing, ;r front, lined moke-plumed linj;*. elegant :)un(l in citie* The central ,in which the Campus Mar- id frontier fort 1 70 1, and in d the English surrendered by » by Harrison. Hall, a hand- e Italian style, ble statues of ong and event- y. Opposite is n granite and y of Michigan's the rebellion, ing fountain pre- by ex-Governor chigan owes no that " the freight in the city. It 1 lou feet wide, er Station of the d is one of the omit the United of the Canada elow; Belle Isle, the city'H beautiful iHland park; and GroHse Point, where many wealthy citizens have built magnificent homes, seven miles above the city, at the end of a beautiful drive. At Detroit close connection is made in the company's magnificent I'assenger Station at the foot of Third Street with its Hay t'ity and Mackinaw Divisions, which run 290 miles northward to the straits, the Toledo Division bringing more passengers from St. Louis, Cincinnat and the South, and with the Flint Ik. Fere Marquette and Detroit, Lansing & Northern roads, which traverse the State to the northwestward. Here another Palace Sleeping Cat for New York or for Doston is attached to the long train that our unwearying courser pulls along with seeming ease. On gigantic ferry-boats of steel, propelled by the most powerful engines, we cross the great river, picturescjue with its busy craft. The officers of Her Majesty's Customs pass through the cars; but their sole duty seems that of hurriedly but courteously affixing to each piece of baggage the little label that passes it free of search or duty through Her Majesty's loyal Dominion. Meanwhile we take advantage of the opportunity to mount the hurricane-deck of the steamer and enjoy the animated scene the broad estuary offers, hearing on its bosom every variety of sail and steam craft, and bordered for miles by the attractive city front, from which we can faintly hear the clang of its numerous foundries and machine shops. Far below are the ramparts of Fort Wayne, with the old windmill of Sandwich opposite. Far above are the wooded shores of Grosse Point and Belle Isle. Wonderful speed we make through Canada over the long tangents; but so smooth are the steel rails and so perfect is the con- struction of the cars that we find no unpleasant jarring as we read our paper or our book. And, however great the speed, there is the utmost safety. The Michigan Central has always enjoyed a singular immunity from serious accidents, — an immunity due not merely to good luck, but to perfect construction, admirable discipline and incessant watchfulness. Science has invented a hundred curious automatic devices that stand between us and danger, and the vigilance of the man at the throttle is unabated. We enter St. Thomas (398 miles) over the ravine of Kettle Creek, by a long, high iron viaduct that has replaced the wooden structure portrayed in Picturesque Canada. It is a prosperous and handsome town of 1 2,000 inhabitants, about half way between the Detroit and Niagara Rivers. It owes its prosperity to its railroad facilities, and easy access to Port Stanley, only eight miles distant, the chief harbor on the north shore of Lake Erie. The city is built on an escarpment of considerable elevation, and from its western edge r*C-^--S«'/i» ^> n. ^ MMM ■18> "THE NIAGARA FALLS ROUTE." 19 « 3 C « t -o O o o o 41*: »•''! E o o o > o >> o ■2 iS -commands a magnificent outlook. " As far as the eye can reach, country villas and trim farmsteads stand out in relief against graceful bits of wildwood, or are only half concealed by plantations of spruce and arbor-vitae. Intervening are broad stretches of meadow or long rolling billows of harvest land. Down in the deep ravine at our feet winds a beautiful stream, which has all the essentials of romance, except the name." The St. Clair Division of the Michigan Central diverges here, and here also the Toronto sleeper Th« Canal and the Railroad. -**^iSS^J^^^i^ that has accompanied us from Chicago is taken by the Canadian Pacific and carried to Toronto, the Ontario metropolis. At Toronto Junction it connects with a mag- nificent Parlor Car running through, via Peterborough and Ottawa, and down the wild-rushing Ottawa River to Montreal and also with other cars for that wild and lovely region of the Muskoka Lakes, a very paradise for the angler, the sportsman and the lover of the untamed L::auties of nature. Meanwhile, by day or by night, we hasten onward to meet again the waters we saw at Chicago's front, and flowing majestically past Michigan's chief city, Detroit. At Hagers- viLLE (457 miles), a neat little town of i.ooo inhabitants, con- nection is made with the North- ern and Northwestern Rail- ways for Hamilton and points North up in the Muskoka, Nipissin^ and Simcoe Lake region. At Welland (498 miles) we cross the famous ship canal which has made possible the carriage of grain from Chi- cago to Liverpool without breaking bulk, and, seeing the lumbering old craft in its basins, inwardly contrast the old with the new. Ten miles farther the Michigan Central has very ex- tensive yards at Montrose (508 miles), where is handled the immense quantity of freight brought into and through Canada by the Niagara frontier. A few minutes' ride from Montrose the train comes to the bank of Niagara River, and stops at Falls View, nearly two hundred feet above, and almost over the brink of the Horseshoe Fall. The passengers may alight, and walk to the edge of the bluff, or enjoy the scene from the car windows or platforms. The view is incomparably grand, and the most ■comprehensive to be had from any single point. The eye reaches far up the placid river mmM '5 , im^ ■Ai'^i ) J J.. ,.1- -I- M m '^'tsw:- (») '-7^-^.-=^sA^i^^0aai^ f ff tM! tim \,.mm 'im^'^ 'vm> m -- iiiW W lHl i lJ WIiliWWWWBiWWBIS THE NIAGARA FALLS ROUTE." 21 .i V > s is a upon either side of Grand Island before the water breaks into the surjring, angrj' rapids that rush impetuously to the brink of the dread abyss. Across the boiling caldron below we see the rich, snowy tracery of the American Fall; in mid-river the forest-covered Goat Island^ and directly below the grand curvo -if the Horseshoe, over which pours the emerald flood. Its deep diapason fills the air and shakes the earth, and from the unseen depths rises ever the column and cloud of many-tinted spray, dissolving slowly as ,t soars heavenward. At this point the Michigan Central will erect a building of large proportions and of an architectural character entirely in har- ^^./r^ -•:!?'"*?*>i mony with its purpose and surroundings, that will add greatly to the convenience and enjoyment of travelers. This place was formerly known as Inspiration Point, and of the scene from it Howells wrote : "By all odds, the most tremendous view of the Falls is afforded by the point on this drive (from the Clifton House to the Burn- ing Spring), whence you look down on the Horseshoe, and behold its three massive walls of sea rounding and sweeping into the gulf together." A little way down the river is Niagara Falls, Ont. (511 miles), where, on a bold projection of the river bank, are the Prospect and Clifton Houses, from which very extensive and impressive views are obtained of the whole amphitheatre and its rocky and aqueous walls. Just before reaching this station, the traveler who is on the lookout for it catches a most charming glimpse of the snowy American Fall through the leafy vista * '^^'"v of th« American F.11. of a sunken road. From a point near the Clifton, stretches the gossamer thread of a suspension foot-bridge 1,268 feet long to the American side of the river, and of the views from which Howells gives an admirable description in TAeir Wedding Journey. A short distance below the station is Wesley Park, a kind of Canadian or International Chautauqua. From Falls View to Clifton (512.5 miles) the road passes along and through the International Park now being laid out by the Canadian Commissioners. Here diverges the Niagara Division of the Michigan Central, which runs down the river to Niagara on the Lake, and there connects with steamers across Lake Ontario to Toronto. One of the most charming outings for the citizens of Buffalo or sojourners there is had by taking one of the double daily trains on this Niagara Division at the Union Depot or '^wnyy,' if S2 FROM CITY TO SURF. Black Rock, crossing the International Bridge, and following the Canadian shore of the river, passing Chippewa and Lundy's Lane, stopping at Falls View, following the river caflon to the Cantilever Bridge at Clifton, then making a detour through the hills to Queenston, within sight of Brock's monument, on the heights, and finally taking the delightful sail across the lake to Toronto. Niagara-on-the-Lake makes little noise in the world; but is one of those thoroughly enjoyable summer resorts that sensible people always like to return to. Its loca- tion is charming, the excellent drives in the vicinity are through a rich and beauti- ful country, and boating, fishing and bath- ing may be enjoyed without end. Across the river is Fort Niagara, one of the oldest cmtiievtr Bridg*. fortifications in the United States, and still garrisoned; and but a short distance on the Michigan Central is Paradise Grove, a favorite resort for a day's outing. Continuing on the main line, we cross the cafion of Niagara River two hundred and fifty feet above " the angriest bit of water in the world," by the Cantilever Bridge, one of the most famous triumphs of modern engineering skill and daring. It is 895 feet in length, built wholly of thoroughly tested steel, and, slight as it is in appearance, sustained upon its double tracks, when tested, the enormous weight of eighteen locomotives and twenty.four heavily loaded gravel cars,, with a temporary deflection of but six inches. It is un- doubtedly one of the strongest and safest bridges in the country. In pass- ing over it, there is, a magnificent view of the Falls, the Rapids and the Fath.r H*nntpin't Sketch, 1698. rocky walls between which the surging waters pour, while below are seen the Lower Rapids and the Suspen- sion Bridge. At Suspension Bridge (513 miles) connection is made with the Niagara Falls Division of the New York Central, running to Rochester, via Lockport, and with the Rome, Water- town & Ogdensburg Railroad, whose Sleeping Cars run through from Niagara Falls to- THE NIAGARA FALLS ROUTE." 23 re of the ; the river le hills to aking the ; noise in ance on the red and fifty >, one of the et in length, ned upon its tracks, when the enormous of eighteen stives and four heavily gravel cars, I temporary ion of but six It is un- :dly one of rongest and bridges in the :y. In pass- er it, there is rnificent view ,e Falls, the and the I walls between Id the Suspen- Falls Division Rome, Water- iagara Falls to- ifinr fHfL. I Clayton, near the head of the St. Lawrence; Fabyan's, in the heart of the White Mountains; and Portland, on the sea-shore. An attractive little village has grown up here, with several good hotels and a sanitarium of merit, and a horse railroad has been constructed to the Whirlpool Rapids, a mile or two down the river. Leaving the station, the train backs down on a Y, and then runs up the river to Niagara Falls Station (515 miles), sometimes so close to the edge that one may look down upon the madly turbulent waters far below and get fine views of the Cantilever Bridge, the American and Horseshoe Falls, and the foaming amphitheatre into which they pour. As on the Canadian side, the road skirts the new International Park, which the State of New York, now being seconded by the Dominion, has, with wise liberality, made free to the world for all time to come. The American portion of the park embraces some three hundred acres. Unsightly buildings have been removed, and the shores are gradually retaking the wild natural beauty they wore when Hennepin first gazed upon them two hundred years ago. The hackmen, about whom so much has been written (not always with strict veracity), are controlled by ordinances that prevent annoyance or extortion; neat phaetons run through the Reser- vation to all points of interest, for an insignificant fare; Miller's carriages and transfers take the traveler anywhere at fixed and reasonable rates; and the old charges that met one at every turn, have nearly all been abolished. The Falls, Rapids and Islands have been vividly pictured by the pens of Dickens, Trollope, Bayard Tay- lor and Col. Donan, Tissan- dier. Bigot and Bodenstedt ; and Howells and Warner have graphically described the vil- lage as well in TAeir Wedding Journey and Their Pilgrimage, with which every tourist should be familiar. We will not linger here, therefore. But, passing on, glimpses are had of the white-capped rapids and green islands, with the clouds of spray rising in the back- ground; of the river above widening out until the distant shores lose their sharpness of outline and distinctness of color, with its broiad, placid bosom giving no token of the irresistible power of its current, nor of the fate to which it so smoothly glides ; of fine farms, prolific orchards, neat villages and prosperous-looking homesteads. At Tonawanda (526 miles), New York's great lumber depot, the Erie Canal is crossed ; and soon we pass at Black Rock the International Truss Bridge of the Fort Erie Division of the Michigan Central, completed in 1873 at a cost of a million and a half of dollars, the commodious harbor at the head of the river, and enter the city of Buffalo, halting in the splendid Union Passenger Station on Exchange Street, 536 miles from our starting point. Our entrance into Buffalo beneath the picturesque water-works and beside the canal and lake, is a fit pendant to our departure from Chicago. We see nothing of the squalor of the >"^ •M»«' vated portions of the city are bordered with a profu- sion of shade trees, which adorn also the five public squares of the city and the Terrace, a broad, open space in its busiest section. A portion of the river front is a bold bluff of sixty feet, on which are the ruins of old Fort Porter and the barracks, where several companies of the United States Army are quartered. This bluff and the greater elevations far- ther back, afford fine views of the city, lake and river, the Canada shore and hilly country to the southeast. The most important avenues have numerous fine residences, and many of its public buildings, banks and churches are costly and imposing edifices. The Court House and City Hall is a splendid and spacious granite structure, fronting on Franklin Sti-eet ; the State Arsenal, on Broadway, is a handsome turreted building of limestone ; St. Paul's Cathedral is built of red sandstone, in the early English style, and contains a fine chime of bells; St. Joseph's Cathedral, on Franklin Street, is a fine Gothic edifice of bluestone trimmed with white stone, with a chime of forty-two bells The State Insane Asylum, with a frontage of 2,700 .^et, located in ext.'v ...i ^ grounds adjoining the Buffalo Park, is one of the largest and most favorably noted institutior.b of its kind in the world. The Grosvenor Library, and those of the Young Men's Association and Buffalo Historical Society, as well as the collections of the Society of Natural Sciences, are large and valuable. J rtM THE NIAGARA FALLS ROUTE." as )arterres on agara flows, I an horizon 3,ooo popu- , its growth is the ter- mraerce, for nanufactures J converging >( I.oeaUoD of STATIONS OF 8 OtNTERme IN THt | BUFFALO. lilly country to J of its public irt House and in Sti-eet; the le; St. Paul's a fine chime of of bluestone nsane Asylum, B Buffalo Park, le world. The falo Historical e and valuable. Buffalo also enjoys a superb system of public parks, designed and laid out by Olmsted, embracing about 530 acres, divided among three parks in the eastern, northern and southern sections of the city, with broad bouLvards connecting them, and forming a continuous drive of ten miles. Forest Lawn Cemetery, bounded on two sides by the park, is tastefully laid out, and contains some fine monuments. '• It has a social reputation of its own, which may be described by the term 'gay,' used in its best sense," says Miss Woolson, in Pictur- esque America : •' it has its driving park and annual races; it has its club-houses, its brilliant amateur theatricals, and well-supported public theatres, while its private balls and parties are renowned for their gayety throughout the whole Lake country, with its chain of cities. " The most noticeable fea- ture of Buffalo is its mode of handling grain in bulk, by means of its numerous eleva- tors. These wooden monsters with long trunks and high heads, stand on the bank of the river waiting for their prey. ,„ . .,..,.,..»«. »v In from the lake come the (Frum Sumner a " Inkllntt of Buffalo.") vessels and propellers, laden with grain, from Milwaukee and Chicago, and the tugs carry them up within reach, and leave them to their fate; then down, out of the long neck, comes the trunk, and, plunging itself deep into the hold of the craft, it begins to suck up the grain, nor pauses until the last atom is gone. Within this trunk are two divisions ; in one, the troughs full of grain pass up on a pliable band ; in the other, they pass down empty. In the hold of the vessel or propeller are men who shovel the grain toward these troughs, so they may always go up full; and in the granary of the elevator above are men who regulate the flow of the grain into the shute, and cause it to measure itself, by means of a self- registering apparatus, the whole adjusted and gov- (Prom Sumner's ' ■■■■■'j.v.v/r.oiii Inkllni; ot Buffalo.") BSSi-aiaS M FROM CITY TO SURF. erned by the weight of a finger. It may be that this grain is to go eastward by the Erie Canal; in that case, the canal-boat is waiting on the other side, a man opens another door, the grain runs down another trunk into its hold, and, behold, it is ready for its journey to New York City. The transfer of forty bushels takes less than half a minute, and costs less than half a cent. Americans pass these elevators with but slight attention; every one is supposed to understand their workings, and no one sees anything remarkable in them unless it be their ugliness. But visitors from foreign cbuntries pause before then with curiosity; our uncouth planked elephants on the river banks excite their \\ J^fel'^^RT^I-" 4lfk^ -i-e- interest, and, for written de- scriptions of them, we must go to European books of travel. " Buffalo is attractive by reason of its situation at the eastern end of Lake Erie. It takes its place boldly at the foot of the lake, and catches every breeze and every gale in their full strength. Through the vista of its broad streets, glimpses of blue water meet the eye, and the waves seem full of life, as they dance across the bay toward the gateway of the Niagara River, through whose portal they will soon glide past Grand Island, faster and faster, among the rapids and over the foam -wreathed, misty precipice into the deep, green basin below." Within the huge carapace of the depot, which seems alive with puffing of engines, transfers of baggage, and bustle of passengers ever coming and going, the Michigan Central connects with the New York Central & Hudson River, the only four-track railroad in the world, the West Shore, and the Buffalo, Rochester & Pittsburgh. Two of the Central's tracks are set apart for the immense freight traffic of the line, and two for the passenger trains that fly over the'steel rails with lightning speed, yet with perfect safety, and the traveler soon feels that his chance of realizing on his acci- dent insurance policy is too slight to be thought of. The Sl'eeping Cars leaving Chicago for Syracuse, Boston and New York, run through without change, and the traveler is undisturbed by their transfer at Buffalo from one train to the other. "THK NIAGARA FAI,LS ROUTK." 87 jy the Erie other door, I journey to id costs less every one is them unless th curiosity; of-^' etucoii ■i.T s ever coining ludson River, o, Rochester freight traffic htning speed, ig on his acci- iving Chicago he traveler is All the way across the Empire State we look from the windows upon farmstead and croft, blooming gardens, fruitful orchards and waving grain fields shimmered by gentle breezes, lazily moving canal-boats, rippling brooks, cool pastures and verdant hillsides dotted picturesquely with sheep and cattle, — a thousand scenes of cjuiet pastoral beauty such as Birket Foster loved to d">w. All along and near the line are resorts that tempt the traveler to halt : Lakes ^ .autauqua, Keuka, Canandaigua, Seneca, Cayuga, Owasco and Oneida ; Genesee, Ithaca, Taghkanic and Trenton Fails ; Clifton, Avon, Richfield, Ballston and Saratoga Springs ; Watkins Glen, Canandaigua, Ith- aca and numerous other delight- ful places are not far off. Pop- ulous and prosperous cities, too, appear and disappear. Passing Batavia (574 miles), a pretty village of 4,000 people, with broad and beautifully shaded streets, the site of the State Institution for the Blind, we come to Rochester (606 miles), a busy city of 90,000 inhabitants, noted for its beautiful falls of the Genesee (about a hundred yards from the railroad bridge), with which are associated Web- ster's postprandial speech and Sam Patch's fatal leap; its flour, its boots and shoes, its engines and boilers, its agricultural im- plements, and its nurseries and seeds, its tobacco and patent medicines, its splendid university and lovely cemetery, while Their Wedding Journey has thrown about it a tender, roseate glow of delicious sentiment that induces the sojourner to seek the veritable hotel that Basil and Isabel found so charming. The " old road " diverges from the main line at Rochester, and runs via Canandaigua, Clifton Springs, Geneva Ithaca and Auburn to Syracuse, 104 miles. Lyons (639 miles), the centre of the dried-fruit industry, is passed and the train halts at Syracuse (686 miles), whose extensive salt springs and works will forever preserve it in history, and whose pleasant location at the end of Onondaga Lake, important manufactures and 6ne public buildings make this city of 70,000 people a memorable cne. Chittenango (700 miles) is noted for its iron and .sulphur springs. Oneida (712 miles) Tnirton Folh from tha PInnacI*. ft FROM CITY TO SURF. \f is six miles from the lake uf the same name; at Veroim (716 miles) is another mineral spring, and at Rome (725 miles) are railroad sho|)s, rolling mills and an important lumber market. Utica (739 miles) is a large and handsome city of 35,000 inhabitants, on the side of old Fort Schuyler, possesses extensive and varied manufactures, and is an important railroad and canal centre. Northward to the St. Lawrence runs the Rome, Watertowii & Ogdens- burg Railroad, through a remarkably picturesque country, with numerous gateways to the lake region of the Adirondacks along the line. Eighteen miles from Utica are Trenton ^, Falls, one of the most entrancingiy beautiful and graceful series of cas- cades upon earth. At Utica we are in the rich and picturesque Mohawk Valley, and we continue its descent through Richfield Springs, Little Falls (760 miles), Palatine Bridge and Fonda (whence a little railroad runs up into the Adirondack region) Aibmy. to the old Dutch city of Schenectady (817 miles), onre the council ground of the Mohawks, later a Dutch frontier trading post, and fifty-five ytars ago the terminus of the Hudson & Mohawk Railroad, over which ran the first train on what is now a part of a great trunk system. Union College is located here, and the city counts 14,000 inhabitants now. At this point the Saratoga and Champlain Division of the Delaware & Hudson Canal Co.'s Railroad diverges to Ballston, Saratoga, Lakes George and Champlain and the Northern Wilderness. Halt an hour later we 'Mi into the quaint, historic city of Albany (834 miles), the capital of the Empire State, with a population of nearly a hundred thousand. The terminus of the Erie and Champlain canals at the head of navigation of the Hud- son, and the centre to which several impor- tant lines of railway converge, and with many great manufacturing industries, Albany is a live, active, prosperous city, and occupies a proud commercial position. It has celebrated the two- )'"iy^!H|^Tr hundredth anniversary of its incorporation, and has a flavor of great antiquity to most Americans. Rich in its traditions of Dutch and English sovereignty, in its historic associations with the Revo- lution and the birth and infancy of the Republic, in its literary and scientific accumulations, in its magnificent triumph of modem architecture and interior decoration that crowns its lofty Capitolian Hill, and in its lovely vistas of the lordly Hudson that bathes its feet, it is full of interest to the observant traveler, and worthy of a lengthy halt. Here separate our Palace Cars that started from Chicago and have journeyed so far together. One Sleeping or Drawing- Room Car, as the case may be, goes directly eastward ' ■ ' tX.WI ' WW^^J-' "> ' l«WI"A ' ^.j : ' ,! '«.« t'-,',-«l,TT»i. ' - :' J ' a;. 'C.~ ~-" iier mineral ant lumber the side of ant railroad & Ogdens- ic Mohawics, le Hudson & I great trunk Its now. At I Canal Co.'s he Northern I of nearly a le Erie and of the Hud- everal impor- [e, and with industries, sperous city, cial position, icorporation. Rich in its :h the Revo- :cumulations, owns its lofty et, it is full of •neyed so far !Ctly eastward IHK N^IAGAMA FAM.S ROUTE." MMfR^' 99 uyh the Taghkanir and *',erk iire Mun ' lin*, to the b«ai" (111 green h is bt "h(t the river, and then ' courut ' the no' -'est stream in the Kcautifii uid ever-varying scenes, not Hhalinw led with islands, picturesque JHoad meadows, and lined by jetties and over the Boston ^: Albaii aili .ud, i Huston. We watch it il( isly climbi also, crossing the magniticcnt iron hf ki world through a hundred and fifty miles »( gni one of which is uninteresting. At first the i . with great white groups of ice houses, borders i breakwaters to confine to its channel the waters that wouki too idly linger by the wayside. We can see the Overslagh where the //(j// Afoon anchored and Hendrik Hudson took to his pinnace nearly three hnndrtd years ago. Beyond to the westward loom up tht .solid blue masses of the Helderbergs, full of caverns and fossils, of mystical tradition and of memories of the war of the Anti-Renters. Gradually the meadows nar- row and sometimes disappear, and the numerous bold headlands rise more abruptly from the water. At Hudson (863 miles), the head of .ship naviga- tion, and once an important whaling port, but now a quiet city of 12,000 people, more noted for its iron manufactures, the river has swollen into greater pro- portions of depth and breadth, and we gaze upon the strikingly beautiful panorama of the Catskill Mount- ains beyond it. On a lofty promontory near the city is the home of the artist Church, and from Prospect Hill, 500 feet high, the view of the Catskills is incomparably fine. Four miles below is Catskill Landing, the point of departure for the mountains, and the view of them is varied with every curve in our course and every change in the atmospheric conditions. Round Top is 3,800 feet high, and only eight or nine miles from the Landing, whence the little railway runs to the Kaaterskill House. All along the country is full of • KMtonUii Ftib. old Dutch homesteads, neat, well tilled modern farms and costly villas, most of which, however, are concealed from view by the high bank under which the railroad is constructed along the water's edge. More and more grandly do the hills arise from the opposite side. More and more grandly does the river flow on between its confines or expand into lake-like bays, bearing on its bosom a picturesque fleet of steam and sail. Passing the vast and stately buildings of the Hudson River Insane Asylum, on a commanding eminence, the train halts for refreshments at Poughkeepsie (903 lOiles). From the station one sees little of the city, which is a large and handsome one, ;^^^^£f' The Iron Duke, Catskill Mountains. (80) "TH^, NIAGARA FALLS KUUTK.' 81 lj»j»»«»f;*i, '^^■r. J^" " ii-fS-- SunriM from Shy Top, new L*k« Mohonk. built on an elevated plateau, and possessinj^ eight imiwrtant educational institutions, one of wiiich. Vassar. is probably the most noted female college in the world. Fourteen miles from New I'altz Landing, across the river, is the delightful summi-r resort of I,ake Nfoh.mk. on tht Shawangunk Mountains, 1,24 ^ feet above the sea. Fifteen miles below Foughkeepsie is Fishkill (917 miles), where a steam ferry runs to Newburgh, a handsomely built city of 18,000 in- habitants, on the west shore, where an old gray stone mansion.in which Washington had his headquarters, is still preserved. Just below the broad expanse of Newburgh Bay comes to an end, and wc come to the famed High- lands of th£ Hudson, entered under the precipices of Beacon Hill and Breakneck, with the massive granite crown of Storm King (Butter Hill, we called it when we were boys) towering opposite 1,529 teet above the water. On the steep side of Bull Hill we see Underclif!, the old residence of George P. Morris, and just beyond pass Cold Spring (923 miles), with its famous cannon foundry, immortalized on the canvas of Weir. Opposite, be- tween Storm King and Crow Nest, is the lovely high- land Vale of Tempe. We cross Constitution Island near the spot where Arnold and Andre met, and stop a moment at Garrison's (926 miles), where Col. Comstock, of Grant's staff, was killed. For two or three miles, rounding the point abpve where the river makes a short turn at right angles, we have had a splendid view of West Point, with its great piles of buildings that constitute the National Military Academy,-,ts barracks, academic hall, library, observatory, etc.; its level parade; Kosc usko s monument, gleaming white under the trees; and Sedgwick's and Scott's, of which only ghmpses can be caught. Just below the ferry landing from Garrison's, but on the lofty bluff just beyond the Academy grounds, .s Cranston's (formerly Cozzen's), a famous I ,T f . " ' ' 111-^""—" FROM CITY TO SURF. summer resort. Near by ButtermiI^ Falls tumble over the ledges into the river, and way above, on Mount Independence, the crumbling walls of Fort Putnam can still be distinguished. Just below Garrison's we pass Beverly's house, whence Arnold fled to the Vulture on hearing of Andre's capture. Every foot of the way here and onward is historic ground. Soon we run through a long tunnel under Anthony's Nose, and, emerging into daylight, sweep around the head of Peekskill Bay, with the imposing granite height of the Dunder- burg on the opposite point, and lona Island in the sharp bend guarding the southern portals of the Highlands. Around the foot of the Dunderburg and through the Highlands may be seen some magnificent engineering, where a shelf has been cut out of the solid rock for the construction of the West Shore railroad, now leased by the New York Central. wa.hingion s He«dquartei». Nawburgh. The traveler in the Michigan Central St. Louis and New York sleeper will pass over it ; but the finer view, nearly the whole length of the river, is from the eastern shore. At Peekskill, the home and birthplace of Chauncey M. Depew, the river broadens to an inland lake. The mountains spread apart, culminating to the westward in the solid masses of the distant Shawan- gunks. The banks are still rocky, but less precipitous,, and beauty succeeds to grandeur. Verplanck's Point closes in the southern end of Peekskill Bay, jutting far out into the river as if to meet Stony Point, where Anthony Wayne gained his well-won fame. Below, Haverstraw Bay broadens out to majestic pro- portions, bearing on its bosom as varied and picturesque fleets as any waters in the world. It is always beautiful, whether its peaceful waters reflect the snowy clouds floating in the azure sky above, or are lashed into foam by the black storms that cluster about the Dunderburg, or are hurtled from the crags of High Torn Mountain, to the side of which clings the West Shore track, which here reaches the river from the valley of the Hackensack, back of the Palisades. '--■^tt^BBSMS^fiSw^s^illi ■j M iii tm i i i i i 'w»miinii»'i MMiP^ THE NIAGARA FALLS ROUTE." 38 i^^^^Mm^ urgh. ill pass over istern shore, oadens to an minating to ant Shawan- precipitous,. of Peekskill meet Stony 1-won fame, jiajestic pro- d picturesque It is always s reflect the iky above, or storms that rom the crags ich clings the iver from the Then come Sing Sing (944 miles), with its vast State Prison; Tarrytown (950 miles), with its memories of Sunnyside and Sleepy Hollow, of Washington and Andre, of Diedrich Knickerbocker and Rip Van Winkle; the broad Tappan Zee; the popi:lous suburban city of Yonkers. (961 miles); and then, after twenty miles of the grand unbroken preci- The Highlands of th« Hudson. pice of the Palisades, turn from the lordly Hudson to run down the bank of Spuyten Duyvel Creek, stopping a moment at the magnificent new up-town station at 138th street. We have enjoyed such a glorious panorama as the world nowhere else a.fords, and which remains forever ineffaced in the memory. And we can not but believe forever afterward with the great traveler,' Bayard Taylor, that "there is one river which, from its source to the ocean, unrolls a long chain of landscapes wherein there is no tame feature, but each successive view presents new combinations of beauty and majesty, which other rivers may surpass in sections, but none rival as a whole, — and its name is The Hudson." Along Spuyten Duyvel Creek to Harlem, fifteen miles yet from the Battery, we see the building of the city; splendid villas crowning the heights, and t38fh Street stition. here and there giving way to the solid blocks and paved streets of the metropolis: the elevated railroads show us the presence of urban traffic. At last, after several miles of brick-walled sunken way, we rush into the Grand Central Depot, the only railroad depot in the city of New York (976 'THE NIAGARA FALLS ROUTE." 35 miles), and one in every way worthy of the great financial and commercial metropolis of the Nation. We find ourselves right in the heart of the great American metropolis, having avoided all tedious ferry transfers of person and baggage. The best hotels in the city are not far off, and some are very close at hand. At the door is a station of the elevated rail- way, whose swift trains will quickly whisk us about the city. Street cars, omnibuses, hacks and cabs are ct hand. Baggage does not hinder us; for, when we purchased our tickets at the Michigan Central's office in Chicago, our bag- gage was checked through from our residence to our destined hotel in New York. This is a feature of railroad management ''^ that saves much annoyance and trouble, ''^" and is in vogue in all the principal .,-- cities of " The Niagara Falls Route." v Checking his baggage at home, he may dismiss the subject from his mind, and, reaching his destination in Boston or New York, in Brooklyn, Jersey City or Hoboken, he will find his trunks there about as soon as himself. Our route ends at the Grand Central Depot; but of course the traveler will go farther. He will cross and inspect the wonderful bridge that spans the East River to Brooklyn; he will wander in the winding and shady paths of Central and Prospect Parks and Green- wood Cemetery, the beauty of which has little that is funereal in its aspect; he will go down the magnificent harbor and outer bay, past Bedloe's Island, where towers Bartholdi's colossal statue, munificent gift from the French people, — past Governor's Island, with its antiquated fortifications, — past Staaten Island, with its wooded and villa-covered slopes, — past the grim batteries of Forts Lafayette and Wadsworth, until Sandy Hook is rounded, with Coney Island on the left and Long Branch off to the right, and he feels the mighty pulsations of old ocean's breast. •ff (86) -H ' ^,,.mk.:r9'l'i/imitl*KVi-iW---. •€ NIAGARA FALLS. BY ■a Anthony Tkollopr. ■F all the sights on this earth of ours which tourists travel to see.-at least of all those which I have seen,-I am inclined to give the palm to the .Falls of Niagara. In the catalogue of such sights, I intend to include all bmldrngs, pictures, statues, and wonders of art made by men's hands, and also all beauties of nature prepared by the Creator for the delight of His creatures. This is a long word ; but, as far as my taste and judgment go. it is I wo„M !r ! . ^ ''"°'' "" °'''"' °"' ''^'"^ '° ^'""^'^"'' ^° ^•°"°"«' ^"d so powerful. I would not by th.s be understood as saying that a traveler wishing to do the best with his all that modern art can teach. At Rome, he will be brought to understand the cold hearts h mself w. h a flood o grandeur and loveliness, and fill himself, if he be capab. of such filhng, w.th a flood of romance. The tropics will unfold to him all that vegetation in its greatest r.chness can produce. In Paris, he will find the supreme of polish, the «../«, «//r. of varn.sh according to the world's capability of varnishing ; and, in London, he will find the supreme of power, the n^ plus ulira of work according to the world's capability of working. Any one of such journeys may be more valuable to a man,_nay, any one such journey must be more valuable to a man, than a visit to Niagara. At Niagar^ there is hat fall of waters alone. But that fall is more graceful than Giotto's tower, more noble than the Apollo. The peaks of the Alps are not so astounding in their solitude The valleys of the Blue Mountains in Jamaica are less green. The finished glaze of life in (37) 88 FROM CliY TO SURF. Paris is less invariable ; and the full tide of trade round the Bank of England is not so inexorably powerful, I came across an artist at Niagara who was attempting to draw the spray of the waters. "You have a difficult subject," said I. " All subjects are difficult," he replied, "to a man who desires to do well." "But yours, I fear, is impossible," I said. "You have no right to say so till I have finished my picture," he replied. I acknowledged the justice of his rebuke, regretted that I could not remain till the completion of his work should enable me to revoke my words, and passed on. Then I began to reflect whether I did not intend to try a task as difficult in describing the Falls, and whether I felt any of that proud self- confidence which kept him haopy at any rate while his task was in hand. I will not say that it is as difficult to describe aright that rush of waters, as it is to paint it well. But I doubt whether it is not quite as difficult to write a description that shall interest the reader, as it is to paint a picture of them that shall be pleasant to the beholder. My friend the artist was at any rate not afraid to make the attempt, and I also will try my hand. That the waters of Lake Erie have come down in their courses from the broad basins of Lake Michigan, Lake Superior, and Lake Huron ; that these waters fall into Lake Ontario by the short and rapid river of Niagara, and that the Falls of Niagara are made by a sudden break in the level of this rapid river, is probably known to all who will read this book. All the waters of these huge Northern inland seas run over that breach in the rocky bottom of the stream ; and thence it comes that the flow is unceasing in its grandeur, and that no eye can . perceive a difference in the weight, or sound, or violence of the fall, whether it be visited in the drought of autumn, amidst th* Faiit the storms of winter, or after the melting of the upper worlds "^ ""''*°* of ice in the days of the early summer. How many cataracts does the habitual tourist visit at which the waters fail him ? But at Niagara the waters never fail. There it thunders over its ledge in a volume that never ceases, and is never diminished, — as it has done from time previous to the life of man, and as it will do till tens of thousands of years shall see the rocky bed of the river worn away, back to the upper lake. This stream divides Canada from the States, the western or farthermost bank belonging to the British rrown, and the eastern or nearer bank being in the State of New York. In visiting Niagara, l always becomes a question on which side the visitor shall take up his quarters. ' On the Canada side, there is no town, but there is a large hotel, beautifully placed immediately opposite to the Falls, and this is generally thought to be the best ,H,i.i, i, l,'.i;^ i A ' .' ' .'?ik-:..i ' ", ! !?FJ .'..;.....,jsi». ym nia(;ara falls. 89 1 is not so he waters, 'to a man s no right tice of his enable me t intend to proud seU- rill not say '#i I ^^rM )itual tourist There it ished, — as it f thousands :e. nk belonging w York. In take up his , beautifully be the best [locality for tourists. In the State of New York is the town called Niagara Fulls, and here there are two large hotels, which, as to their immediate site, are not so well placed as that in Canada. I fir'" visited Niagara some three years since. I stayed then at the Clifton House, on the Canada side, and have since sworn by that position. But the Clifton House was closed for the season when I was last there, and on that account we went to the Cataract House, in the town on the other side. I now think I should set up my staff on the American side if I went again. My advice on the subject to any party starting for Niagara would depend upon their habits or their nationality. I would send Americans to the Canadian side, because they dislike walking ; but English people I would locate on the American side, seeing that they are gener- ally accustomed to the frequent use of their own legs. The two sides are not very easily approached, one from the other. Immediately below the Falls, there is a ferry, which may be traversed at the ex- pense of a shilling ; but the labor of get- ting up and down from the ferry is con- siderable; but it is two miles down the river, making a walk or drive of four miles necessary, and the toll for passing is four shillings, or a dollar, in a carriage, and one shilling on foot. As the greater variety of prospect can be had on the American side, as the island between the two Falls is approachable from the American side, and not from the Canadian, and as it is in this island that visitors will best love to linger and learn to measure in their minds the vast triumph of waters before them, I recommend such of my readers as can trust a little — it need be but a little — to their own legs, to select their hotel at Niagara Falls town. It has been said that it matters much from what point the Falls are first seen; but to this I demur. It matters, I think, very little, or not at all. Let the visitor first see it all, and learn the whereabouts of every point, so as to understand his own position and that of the waters ; and then, having done that in the way of business, let him proceed to enjoyment. I doubt whether it be not the best to do this with all sight-seeing. I am quite sure that it is the way in which acquaint- ance may be best and most pleasantly made with a new picture. The Falls are, as I have said, made by a sudden breach in the level of the river. All cataracts are, I presume, made by such breaches; but generally the waters do not fall pre- cipitously as they do at Niagara, and never elsewhere, as far as the world yet knows, has a Ktrry Lindlng, Canadian Side *»vr-^- 40 FROM CITY TO SURF. breach so sudden been made in a river carrying in its channel such or any approach to such a body of water. Up above the Falls, for more than a mile, the wa'.ers ieaj) and burst over rapids, as though conscious of the destiny that awaits them. Here the river is very broad, and comparatively shallow; but from shore to shore it frets itself into little torrents, and begins to assume the najesty of its power. Looking at it even here, in the expanse which forms itself over the greater fall, one feels sure that no stnmgest swimmer could have a chance of saving himself, if fate had cast him in even among those petty whirlpools. The waters, though so broken in their descent, are deliciously green. This color as seen early in the morning, or just as the sun has set, is so bright as to give to the place [one] of its chiefest charms. This will be best seen from the further end of the island, — Goat IsLiiu, as it is called, which, as the reader will understand, divides the river immediately above the Falls. Indeed, the island is a part of that precipitously broken ledge over which the river tumbles; and no doubt in process of time will be worn away and covered with water. The time, however, will be very long. In the meanwhile it is perhaps a mile round, and is covered thickly with timber. At the upper end of the island the waters are divided, and, coming down in two courses, each over its own rapids, form two separate falls. The bridge by which the island is entered is a hundred yards or more above the smaller fall. The w« ciS here have been turned by the island, and make their leap into the body of the river below at a right angle with it, — about two hundred yards below the greater fall. Taken alone, this smaller cataract would, I imagine, be the heaviest fall of water known ; but, taken in conjunction with the other, it is terribly :;horn of its majesty. The waters here are not as green as they are at the larger cataract, and, though the ledge has been hollowed and bowed by them, so as to form a curve, that curve does not deepen itself into a vast abyss, as it does at the horseshoe up above. This smaller fall is again divided, and the visitor, passing down a flight of steps, and over a frail wooden bridge, finds him- self on a smaller island in the midst of it. But we will go at once on to the glory, and the thunder, and the majesty, and the wrath of that upper hell of waters. We are still, let the reader remember, on Goat Island, still in the States, and on what is called the American side of the main body of the river. Advancing beyond the path leading down to the lesser fall, we come to that point of the island, at which the waters of the main river begin to descend. From hence, across to the Canadian side, the cataract continues itself in one unabated line. But the line is very far from being direct or straight. After stretching for some little way from the shore, to a point in the river which is reached by a wooden bridge, at the end of which stands a Th* Cataract abov* Qoat Uland. NIAGARA FALLS. 41 ipproach to p and burst iver is very tie torrents, the expanse mmer could ' whirlpools, jlor as seen ace [one) of s it is called, dls. Indeed, umbles; and It lilwid. the ledge has deepen itself again divided, ge, finds him- and the wrath >at Island, still of the river. It point of the nee, across to he line is very the shore, to a hich stands a tower upon the rock, — after stretching to this, the line of the Icdjjc bends inwards against the flood, — in, and in, and in, till one is led to think that the depth of that horseshoe is immeasurable. It has been cut with no stinting hand. A monstrous cantle has been worn back out of the centre of the rock, so that the fury of the waters converges, and the spectator, as he gazes into the hollow with wistful eyes, fancies that he can hardly trace out the centre of the abyss. Go down to the end of that wooden bridge, seat yourself on the rail, and there sit till all the outer world is lost to you. There is no grander spot about Niagara than this. The waters are absolutely around you. If you have that power of eye-control which is so necessary to the full enjoyment of scenery, you will see nothing but the water. You will certainly hear nothing else ; and the sound, I beg you to remember, is not an ear-cracking, agonizing crash and clang of noises, but is melo- dious, and soft withal, though loud as thunder; it fills your ears, and as it were envelopes them, but at the same time you can speak to your neighbor without an effort. But at this place, and in these moments, the less of speaking I should say the better. There is no grander spot than this. Here, seated on the rail of the bridge, you will not see the whole depth of the fall. In looking at the grandest works of nature, and of art too, I fancy, it is never well to see all. There should be some- thing left to the imagination, and much should be half concealed in mystciy. The greatest charm of a mountain range is the wild feeling that there must be strange, unknown, desolate worlds in those far-off valleys beyond. And so here, at Niagara, that converging rush of waters may fall down, down at once into a hell of rivers for what the eye can see. It is glorious to watch them in their first curve over the rocks. They come green as a bank of emeralds, but with a fitful flying color, as though conscious that in one moment more they would be dashed into spray and rise into air, pah as driven snow. The vapor rises high into the air, and is gathered there, visible always as a permanent white cloud over the cataract ; but the bulk of the spray which fills the lower hollow of that horseshoe is like a tumult of snow. This you will not fully see from your seat on the rail. The head of it rises ever and anon out of that caldron below; but the caldron itself will be invisible. It is ever so far down, — far as your own imagmation can sink it. But your eyes will rest full upon the curve of the waters. The shape you will be looking at is that of a horseshoe, but of a horseshoe miraculously deep from toe to heel ; and this depth becomes greater as you sit there. That which at first was only great and beautiful becomes gigantic and sublime, till the mind is at a loss Amaricwi Fall *nd Foot Bridge Fiom Go*t Idind. j^^^MsusBoeam iHisattri^i^iKS 4t FROM CITY TO SURF. to find an epithet for its own use. To realize Niagara, you must sit there till you see noth- ing else than that which you have come to see. You will find yourself among the waters as though you belonged to them. The cool liquid green will run through your veins, and the voice of the cataract will be the expression of your own heart. You will fall as the bright waters fall, rushing down into your new world with no hesitation and with no dismay; and you will rise again as the spray rises, bright, beautiful and pure. Then you will flow away in your course to the uncompassed, distant and eternal ocean. When this state has been reached and has passed away, you may get off your rail and mount the tower. I do not quite approve of that tower, seeing that it has about it a gingLi bread air, and reminds one of those well arranged scenes of ro- mance in which one is told that t>n the left you turn to the lady's bower, price sixpence; and on the right ascend to the knight's bed, price six- pence more, with a view of the her- mit's tomb thrown in. But, never- theless, the tower is worth mount- ing, and no money is charged for the use of it. It is not very high, and there is a balcony at the top on which some half-dozen persons may stand at ease. Here the mystery is lost, but the whole fall is seen. It is not even at this spot brought so fully before your eye, — made to show itself in so complete and entire a shape, as it will do when you come to stand near to it on the opposite or Canadian shore. But I think that it shows itself more beautifully. And the form of the cataract is such that, here on Goat Island, on the American side, no spray will reach you, although you are absolutely over the. waters. But on Ihe Canadian side, the road as it approaches the fall is wet and rotten with spray, .and you, as you stand close upon the edge, will be Wet also. The rainbows, as they are seen through the rising cloud — for the sun's rays as seen through these waters show them- selves in a bow as they do when seen through rain — are pretty enough, and are greatly loved. For myself, I do not care for this prettiness at Niagara. It is there; but I forget it, and do not mind how soon it is forgotten. But we are still on the tower; and here I must declare that, though I forgive the tower, I can not forgive the horrid obelisk which has latterly been built opposite to it, on the Th« HofiMhM Fill from Goat IiIkm). (Photograph by Gaoigt Barker.) NI;»f;ARA I'ALLS. 43 ou see noth- J the waters IT veins, and 1 fall aH the ind with no Then you four rail and s about it a ninds one of ;enes of ro- told that On lady's bower, n the right led, price six- r of the her- But, never- orth mount- charged for )t very high, it the top on persons may le mystery is is seen. It t brought so ;, — made to te and entire en you come the opposite )ut I think i beautifully. cataract is It Island, on • the. waters. n with spray, , as they are 5 show them- d are greatly but I forget ve the tower, to it, on the Canadian side, up above the fall; built apparentlv-fnr I h;,i . c....a o..„. ...„..„ ,„,.,,, ,, P^.r'^ e:::r,:::° :;::r - good Christian men and women. At such a place as Niagara, taste- less buildings, run up in wrong places with a view to money making, are perhaps necessary evils. It may be that they are not evils at all,— that they give more- pleasure than pain, seeing that they tend to the enjoyment of the multitude. But there are edifices of this description which cry aloud to the gods by the force of their own ugliness and malposition. As to such it may be said that there should some- where exist a power capable of crushing them in their birth. This new obelisk or picture building at Niagara is one of such. And now we will cross the water, and with this object will return by the bridge out of Goat Island on the mainland of the American side. But, as we do so, let me say that one of the great charms of Niagara consists in this, — that, over and above that one great object of wonder and beauty, there is so much little loveliness; loveliness, especially of water, I mean. There are little rivulets running here and there over little falls, with pend- ent boughs above them, and stones shining under their shal- low depths. As the visitor stands and looks through the trees, the ^ rapids glitter before him, and Th. Rapid, .be «,. Am.He«, F.II. then hide themselves behind '"'n^ "■> -•'''Sf)!^, - ■ rBg-^'q}gfJ!i9tM ^ ' l B ^j [ tjg) ) aH i g v£^ 44 FROM CirV 1() SURF. islapils. They flitter and Kpurkic in far diKtanccs under the bright foliuire till the remem- brance is lost, and one knows not which way thry run. And then the river below, with itH whirlpool, — but wc shall come to that by-and-by, and to the mad voyage which was made down the rapids by that mad ca|)tain who ran the gauntlet of the waters at the risk of his own life, with fifty to one against him, in order that he might save another man's property from the sheriff. The readiest way across tt) Canada is by the ferry ; and, on the American side, this is very pleasantly done. You go into a little house, |)a\ twenty cents, take a seat on a wooden car of wonderful shape, and, on tlu- touch of a sprinjj, find yourself traveling down an inclined plane of terrible declivity, and at a very fast rate. Vou catch a glimpse of the river below you, and recognize the fact, that, if the rope by which you are held should break, you would go down at a very fast rate indeed, and find your final resting place in the *u river. As 1 have gone down some dozen times and have *" - -> .1^ come to no such grief, I will not presume that you will be less lucky. Helow there is a boat generally ready. If it be not there, the place is not chosen amiss for a rest of ten minutes, for the lesser fall is close at hand, and the larger one is in full view. Looking at the rapidity of the river, you will think that the passage must be dangerous and difficult. But no accidents ever happen, and the lad who takes you over seems to do it with sufficient ease. The walk up the hill on the other side is another thing. It is very steep, and, for those who have not good locomotive power of their own, will be found to be disagreeable. In the full sea- son, however, carriages are generally waiting there. In so short a distance, I have always been ashamed to trust to other legs than my own ; but I have observed that Americans are always dragged up. I have seen single young men of from eighteen to twenty-five, from whose outward appearance no story of idle, luxurious life can be read, carried about alone in carriages over distances which would be counted as nothing by any healthy English lady of fifty. None but the old and invalids should require the assistance of carriages in seeing Niagara; but the trade in carriages is, to all appearance, the most brisk trade there. Having mounted the hill on the Canada side, you will walk on toward the Falls. As I have said before, you will from this side look directly into the full circle of the upper cataract, while you will have before you at your left hand the whole expanse of the lesser fall. For those who desire to see all at a glance, who wish to comprise the whole with their eyes, and to leave nothing to be guessed, nothing to be surmised, this, no doubt, is the best point of view. You will be covered with spray as you walk up to the ledge of rocks; but I do not think Th« Bridge, 6i>tti Idwidi. NIAGARA FALLS. 4ft Lhc remem- i»w, with its 1 was made ! risk «)f his Vs property »iile, this is :t seat on a kreling down mpse of the held should place in the s and have you will be )at generally place is not minutes, for md, and the oking at the hink that the and difficult. J, and the lad do it with p the hill on r. It is very ive not good own, will be 1 the full sea- have always Americans are nty-five, from about alone lalthy English [f carriages in ,k trade there. Falls. As I of the upper of the lesser le whole with |, no doubt, is do not think that the spray will hurt you. If a man gets wet through going to his daily work, Cnlds, catarrh, cough, and all their attendant evils may be expected ; but these maladies usually spare the tourist. Change of air, plenty of air, excellence of air, and increased exercise make these things powerless. I should, therefore, bid ynu disregard the spray. If, how- ever, you are yourself of a different opinion, you may hire a suit of oil-cloth clothes for, I believe, a quarter of a dollar. They are nasty, of course, and have this further disarl- vantage, that you become much more wet having them on than you would be without them. Here, on this side, you walk on to the very edge of the cataract; anil, if your tread be steady, and your legs firm, you dip your foot into the water exactly at the spot where the thin outside margin of the current reaches the rocky edge, and jumi)s to join the mass of the fall. The bed of white foam beneath is certainly seen belter here than elsewhere, and the green curve of the water is as bright here as when seen from the wooden rail across. But, nevertheless, I say again, that that wooden rail is the one point from whence Niagara may be best seen aright. ' Close to the cataract, exactly at the spot from whence in former days the Table Rock used to project from the land over the boiling caldron below, there is now a shaft, down which you will descend to the level of the river, and pass between the rock and the torrent. This Table Rock broke away from the cliff and fell, as up the whole course of the river the seceding rocks have split and fallen from time to time through countless years, and will continue to do until the bed of the upper lake is reached. You will descend this shaft, taking to yourself oi not taking to yourself a suit of oil-clothes, as you may think best. I have gone with and without the suit, and again recommend that they be left behind. I am inclined to think that the ordinary payment should be made for their use, as otherwise it will appear to those whose trade it is to prepare them that you are injuring thera in their vested rights. Some three years since, I visited Niagara on my way back to England from Bermuda, and, in a volume of travels which I then published, I endeavored to explain the impression made upon me by this passage between the rock and the waterfall. An author should not quote himself ; but, as I feel myself bound, in writing a chapter specially about Niagara, to give some account oi this strange position, I will venture to repeat my own words. In the spot to which I allude, the visitor stands on abroad, safe path, made of suirigles, between the rock over which the water rushes and the rushing water. He will go in so far that the spray rising back from the bed of the torrent does not incommode him. With this exception, the further he can go in the better ; but circumstances will clearly show him the spot to which he should advance. Unless the water be driven in by a very strong wind, five yards makes the difference between a comparatively dry coat and an abso- lutely wet one. And then let him stand with his back to the entrance, thus hiding the last glimmer of the expiring day. So standing, he will look up among the falling waters, or down into the deep, misty pit, from which they reascend in almost as palpable a bulk. The rock will be at his right hand, high and hard, and dark and straight, like the wall of some huge cavern such as children enter in their dreams. For the first five minutes he will be looking but at the waters of a cataract, — at the waters, indeed, of such a cataract as m Approach to the Cave of the Winds. (46) w^BmmssM^sS: NIAGARA FALLS. 47 we know no other, and at their interior curves, which elsewhere we can not see. But by- and-by all this will change. He will no longer be on a shingly path beneath a waterfall ; but that feeling of a cavern will grow upon him, of a cavern deep below roaring seas, in which the waves are there, though they do not enter in upon him; or, rather, not the waves, but the very bowels, of the ocean. He will feel as though the floods surrounded him, com- ing and going with their wild sounds, and he will hardly recognize, that, though among them, he is not in them. And they, as they fall with a continual roar, not hurting the ear, but musical withal, will seem to move as the vast ocean waters may perhaps move in their internal currents. He will lose the sense of one continued descent, and think they are passing around him in their appointed courses. The broken spray that rises from the depths below, rises so strongly, so palpably, so rapidly, that the motion in every direction will seem equal. And, as he looks on, strange colors will show themselves through the mist ; the shades of gray will become green or blue, with ever and anon a flash of white ; and then, when some gust of wind blows in with greater violence, the sea-girt cavern will become all dark and black. Oh, my friend, let there be no one there to speak to thee then ; no, not even a brother. As you stand there, speak only to the waters. Two miles below the Falls the river is crossed by a suspension' bridge of marvelous construction. It affords two thoroughfares, one above the other. The lower road is for carriages and horses, and the Upper one bears a railway belonging to the Great Western Canada line. The view from hence, both up and down the river, is very beautiful; for the bridge is built immediately over the first of a series of rapids. One mile below the bridge these rapids end in a broad basin called the Whirlpool, and, issuing out of this, the current turns to the right through a narrow channel overhung by cliffs and trees, and then makes its way down to Lake Ontario with comparative tranquillity. But I beg you take notice of those rapids from the bridge, and to ask yourself what chance of life would remain to any ship, craft, or boat required by destiny to undergo navigation beneath the bridge and down into that whirlpool. Heretofore all men would have said that no chance of life could remain to so ill-starred a bark. The navigation, however, has been effected. But men used to the river still say that the chances would be fifty to one against any vessel which should attempt to repeat the experiment. The story of that wondrous voyage was as follows : A small steamer, called the Maid of the Mist, was built upon the river, between the Falls and the Rapids, and was used for 'Tsr, Tm' r^ !''.^^Mr : mm-mmmm^-m'm*F*is^m 48 FROM CITY TO SURF. taking adventurous tourists up amidst the spray, as near to the cataract as was possible. The Maid of the Mist plied in this way for a year or two, and was, I believe, much patronized during the season. But in the early part of last summer an evil time had come. Either the Maid got into debt, or her owner had embarked in other and less profit- able speculations. At any rate, he became subject to the law, and tidings reached him that the sheriff would seize the Maid. On most occasions the sheriff is bound to keep such intentions secret, seeing that property is movable, and that an insolvent debtor will not always await the officers of justice. But with the poor Maid there was no need of such secrecy. There was but a mile or so of water on which she could ply, and she was forbidden by the nature of her properties .to make any way upon land. The sheriff's prey therefore was easy, and the poor Maid was doomed. In any country in the world but America such would have been the case ; but an American would steam down Phlegethon to save his property from the sheriff ; he would steam down Phlegethon, or get some one else to do it for him. Whether or no in this case the captain of the boat was the proprietor, or whether, as I was told, he was paid for the job, I do not know ; but he determined to run the rapids, and he procured two others to accompany him in the risk. He got up his steam, and took the Maid up amidst the spray, according to his custom. Then, suddenly turning on his course, he with one of his companions fixed himself at the wheel, while the other remained at his engine. I wish I could look into the mind of that man, and understand what his thoughts were at that moment,— what were his thoughts, and what his beliefs. As to one of the men, I was told that he was carried down, not knowing what he was about to do ; but 1 am inclined to believe that all the three were joined together in the attempt. I was told by a man who saw the boat pass under the bridge, that she made i ig leap down as she came thither, that her funnel was at once knocked flat on the dectt oy the force of the blow, that the waters covered her from stem to stern, and that then she rose again, and skimmed into that whirlpool a mile below. When there she rode with compara- tive ease upon the waters, and took the sharp turn round into the river below without a struggle. The feat was done, and the Maid was rescued from the sheriff. It is said that she was sold below at the mouth of the river, and earned from thence over Lake Ontario, and down the St. Lawrence to Q}xebec.—Nortk America, 1862. ^^' was possible, lelieve, much vil time had 1 less profit- hed him that to keep such )tor will not leed of such md she was The sheriff's ase ; but an S ; he would 3 in this case I paid for the two others to 1st the spray, h one of his le. I wish I were at that n, I was told u inrlined to ide iy ig e decK. oy the then she rose vith compara- ow without a : is said that ;^ake Ontario, NIAGARA. Has aught like this descended since the fountains Of the Great Deep, broke up, in cataracts hurled, And climbing lofty hills, eternal mountains. Poured wave on wave above a buried world ? Yon tides are raging, as when storms have striven And the vexed seas, awaking from their sleep Are rough with foam, and Neptune's flocks are driven In myriads o'er *he green and azure deep. Ere yet they fall, mark (where that mighty current Comes like an army from its mountain home) How fiercely yon steeds amid the torrent With their dark flanks, and manes and crests of foam, Speed to their doom,— yet, in the awful centre Where the wild waves rush raadliest to the steep Just ere that white, unfathomed gulf they enter Rear back in horror from the headlong leap, ' Then, maddening, plunge. A thousand more succeeding Sweep onward, troop on troop, again to urge The same fierce flight, as rapid and unheeding,- Again to pause in terror on the verge. Oft to an eye half closed, as if in solving Some mighty, mystic problem.— half it seems Like some vast crystal wheel, ever revolving Whose motion, earth's,_whose axle, earth's extremes. (49) 50 FROM CITY TO SURF We gaze and gaze, half lost in dreamy pleasure, On all that slow, majestic wave reveals, While fancy idly, vainly, strives to measure How vast the cavern which its veil conceals. Whence come ye, O wild waters ? By what scenes Of Majesty and Beauty have ye flowed, In the wide continent that intervenes, Ere yet ye mingle in this common road ? The Mountain King, upon his rocky throne, Laves his broad feet amid your rushing streams, And many a vale of loveliness unknown Is softly mirrored in their crystal gleams. They come— from haunts a thousand leagues away, ' From ancient mounds, with aeserts wide between; Cliffs, whose tall summits catch the parting day, And prairies blooming in eternal green ; Yet, the bright valley, and the flower-lit meadow, And the drear waste of wilderness, all past,— Like that strange Life, of which thou art the shadow,— Must take the inevitable plunge at last. Whither we know not;— but above the wave A gentle, white-robed spirit sorrowing stands. Type of the rising from that darker grave Which waits the wanderer from Life's weary lands. How long these wondrous forms, these colors splendid, Their glory o'er the wilderness have thrown ! How long that mighty anthem has ascended To Him who wakened its eternal tone ! That everlasting utterance thou shalt raise, A thousand ages ended, still the same, When this poor heart, that fain would add its praise. Has mouldered to the nothing whence it came ! When the white dwellings of man's busy brood. Now reared in myriads o'er the peopled plain. Like snows have vanished, and the ancient wood Shall echo to the eagle's shriek again, And all the resJess crowds that now rejoice And toil and traffic, in their eager moods, Shall pass,— and nothing save thine awful voice Shall break the hush of these vast solitudes. Henry Howard Brownell. fc>y.-!:».'#. NIAGARA FALLS. There s nothing great or bright, thou glorious Fall • Thou mayest not to the fancy's sense recall - The thunder-riven cloud, the lightning's leap The stirring of the chambers of the deep ; Earth's emerald green, and many tinted dyes, The fleecy whiteness of the upper sHes ; The tread of armies, thickening as they come, The boom of cannon and the beat of drum ; The brow of beauty and the form of grace, The passion and the prowess of our race ; The song of Homer in its loftiest hour. The unresisted sweep of human power'; Britannia's trident on the azure sea, America's young shout of liberty ! Oh ! may the waves which madden in thy deep There spend their rage, nor climb the encircling steep • And, till the conflict of thy surges cease, The nations on thy banks repose in peace. George William Frederick Howard. NIAGARA. Majestic torrent, God hath set His seal Of beauty, might and grandeur on thy brow For signs of these to see, and hear, and feel- ' Beneath His shining sky, transcendent thou ! William C. Richards. (51) -f-l^. i U'.'SS VOYAGE AU NIAGARA. PAR CHARLES Bigot. v il — SI » i I'Hudson. E rendez-vous est i\ dix heures A la gare du Central-New- York; nous y trouvons notre hfite, M. Chauncey Depew. Nous y trouvons aussi I'aimable secr<^taire du comity am^ricain, M. Richard Butler, sa fille charmante et son gendre non moins charmant, M. et Mme. Glenzer. Nous prenons place dans le train special prepare A notre intention ; il se compose du wagon particulier de M. Vanderbilt, qui contient une cuisine, un grand salon-salle 4 manger, d6cor6 et meubl6 avec autant de goftt que de luxe, une chambre il coucher, un boudoir coquet k I'arri^re. Nous n'aurions pu trouver tous place dans ce wagon ; un second, fort 616gant lui aussi, a 6t(5 joint au premier. Nous franchissons sui' un pont ie petit bras de mer qui enclOt I'ile oft est bflti New York ; nous voici maintenant longeant la rive gauche de Pendant quatre heures, jusqu'A Albany, nous ne cesserons pas de remonter cette rive, ayant toujours I'Hudson A notre gauche. On a souvent oM6br6 la beaut6 pittoresque des rives de I'Hudson ; on ne la c6l6brera jamais trop. C'est vraiment un des plus beaux spectacles qui se puissent imaginer. Tan- t6t les collines s'abaissent et descendent par une pente douce jusqu'A la 1 1\ i6re ; tantAt leurs sommets bois6s dominent I'eau A pic et resemblent A de superbes falaises. Le Rhin entre Cologne et Mayence, le Danube entre Orsova et Belgrade n 'off rant pas des paysages plus grandioses. La beauts de ceux-ci, c'est qu'ils ne sont pas trop sauvages : I'humanitfi s'y montre A c6t6 de la nature. A n6tre gauche, au delA du fleuve, A notre droite, pr6s de nous sur les collines, nous d^couvrons seulement nombre de villas, de chateaux de tous styles, entour^s de vastes pares. C'est ici que les heureux de la vie choissent de pr^f^rence leur residence d'6t6. A droite de la riviere aussi bien qu'A sa gauche, la vue doit 6tre f^erique. Pour nous, nous ne pouvons detacher nos yeux de ce panorama qui sans cesse se trans- forme, comme un d6cor de th^fttre qui se d^roulerait devant nous. Toujours au premier (58) mmi 54 FROM CITY TO SURF. plan I'Hudson aux eaux jaunfltres, large A peu pr6s comme Test le Danube A Giurgevo, sur lequel passent et se croisent des bateaux d vapeur, des barques, des chalands. Et de I'autre c6t6 de I'Hudson des collines et des collines, des fermes, des chflteaux, des villages ou de» petites villes, des champs et prairies, des bois surtout et des forfits. A midi, nous aperce- vons A mi-hauteur des collines, sur la flVe droite de I'Hudson, West-Point, I'ficole de Saint- Cyr am^ricaine. Aucun emplacement plus admirable que celui-ci. Nos futurs officiers, enfermds au fond d'une cuvette dans la vielle maison bfttie par Mme. Maintenon, seraient jaloux de leurs ^mules du nouveau monde, s'il leur ^tait donn6 de voir leur admirable installation. Un profcsseur de Saint-Cyr voudrait bien pouvoir s'arrfiter et visiter West- Point. Albany franchi, I'aspect du pays change. Nous avons quitt6 I'Hudson, nous dirigeant vers le Nord. Nous remontons un petit affluent de I'Hudson, tantOt rividre, tantAt presque torrent, aux rives sauvages et accident^es. Les villes et les villages sont plus rares ; nous sommes en pleme campagne americaine. Et celle-ci ne ressemble pas A nos campagnes de la France, de la Belgique, de la Hollande, de I'Angleterre ou de TAIie- magne du Sud, ofi la terre a tant de prix, est si disput<^e et si morcel6e. Beaucoup de landes, beaucoup de bruyfires aussi; partout lA oi'i les arbres ont gard^ leurs feuilles, des tons d'up. rouge incarnat, se ddtachant sur le sol noir&tre et I'herbe palie. A la matincJe grise et couverte a succ6d6 une aprds-midi splendide; I'air est 16ger et transparent ; le ciel n'a plus le moindre nuage; nous voyons le soleil se coucher dans toute sa gloire, au milieu d'une aureole flamboyante. Le diner est servi. A peine est-il achev6 joyeuse- ment que le train s'arrfite encore, et, au moment oft Au-d*nu* It chut* Amtricain*. nous y pensions le moins, M. Depew nous annonce que nous sommes arrives au Niagara. II est neuf heures precises; nous avons fait en onze heures exactement I'^norme trajet de New- York aux chutes. Pour nous rendre A I'hdtel, nous n'avons qu'une rue A traverser. Nous sommes bien au Niagara ; tout pr6s de nous, un peu A notre gauche, nous entendons la voix incessante, A la fois sourde et forte, des masses d'eaii qui se pr^cipitent. Nous sommes trop pr6s du monstre pour r6sister A la tentation de I'approcher davantage encore. La nuit est claire, piqu^e d'innombrables^toiles qui scintillent. Une toute petite lune, une lune nouvelle, montre dans un coin du firmament son mince croissant. C'est bien "I'obscure clart6 " dont a parl6 16 po6te. Quand nous sommes at»iv6s, apr^s une de- scente de cinq minutes, au bord. du Niagara, ceux qui ont de bons yeux peuvent d^jA. discerner les deux chutes et I'tle qui les s6pare; lesautresapergoiventseulement, au-dessus des chutf s, les taches blanches qui bouillonnent, au-df,ssous des chutes, comme un nuage blanc qui monte de 1' abime. Dans le silence et le sommeil de la nature qui nous environne,. . I. . ' • ■ ..i.» r ■■ W T I^ ^J^t ;. VOYAGE AU NIAGARA. SA irgevo, sur , de I'autre ;rs ou de> »us aperce- B de Saint- s officiers, m, seraient admirable siter West- ons quitt^ ns un petit orrent, aux illages sont amuricaine. ! la France, Li de I'Alle- sput^e et si r^res aussi; s, des tons noirfttre et e a succ6d6 ransparent ; ns le soleil une aureole v6 joyeuse- moment ofi IS annonce )ns fait en us rendre A. out pr6s de de et forte, davantage toute petite C'est bien fes une de- uvent d^jA. t, au-dessus e un nuage environne. ce qui nous frappe le plus, c'est la grande voix du Niagara, tuujours egale, qui jamais ne s'enfle ni ne s'abaisse ; toujours grave, imposante et inexorable comme la fatality ; plus menaqante qu'aucun ^clat de fureur ; qui paraft d'autant plus formidable qu'on I'^coute plus longtemps. Si j'^tais un grand peintre la plume A la main M. Zola ou M. Pierre Loti par example — et il faudrait se sentir un grand peintre pour entreprendre cette tilche — j'- ssayerais de vous ddcrire, A mon tour, ce que j'ai vu au Niagara. Mon ambition, plus modeste, sera seulement de faire comprendre ce qu'est le Niagara, et de reconter notre visite. Le Nord de TAm^rique forme un immense plateau sur lequel les neiges tombent et s'accumulent durant la longue saison de I'hiver. Lorsque les neiges se fondent, elles d^versent leurs eaux dans les parties basses et centrales de ce plateau, dans cinq grandes cuvettes, dans ces lacs qui s'appellent le lac 'Sup^rieur, le lac Michigan, le lac Huron, le lac firi6 et le lac Ontario. De ce dernier sort le Saint-Laurent, ce fleuve fenorme au cours rapide, aux eaux claires, qui charrie t\ I'ocean Atlantique le trop-plein des eaux de ces lacs. Les trois premiers et les trois plus considerables, les lacs Sup^rieur, Michigan et Huron, communiquent entre eux ; un large canal fait & son tour communiquer le lac Huron avec le lac firi^. Mais entre le lac lilri6 et le lac Ontario un ^norme obstacle, un seuil rocher d'une ^paisseur de trente-six milles, de plus de quatorze lieues, s'6l6ve. Ce seuil de rocher n'a pu arreter I'eau d^bordante ; elle s'est fray^ un passage A travers I'obstacle ; elle s'est ouverte sa voie. Cette voie, c'est la riviere du Niagara. Entre le lac tjt'ii et le lac Ontario ] . difference de niveau est considerable. L'eau du lac £rie a pu franchir le seuil de rochei, elle n'a pu s'y creuser un lit qui, par une pente douce, la conduise insensiblement au lac Ontario. Une chute brusque et violente ne pouvait VS ' ^f^^'- ' ' mj;0ii 66 FROM c:nY ro surf. manquer de sc produire lA ofi {'obstacle s'arrf-terait tout A coup, oh se manifesterait la diff<5rence des deux niveaux. II fut un temps certaitiemeiu oft la chute tin Niagara sc faisait i\ I'entrf'ie du lac Ontario lui-mf'm<.', iV son bord escarpt'i de roucst. I,e Niagara se pn'cipitait clans le lac mf'me, dune hauteur de cent metres au moins, avec sa masse d'eau immense ; et ce devait f'tre alor» un prodigieux spectacle, aucjuel nul homme n'a assist*''. Mais pen A pen I'eau a \is6 la roche A I'endroit oft elle se pn5cipitait ; elle I'a lim6e, entamc-e, dc'-truite ; et ainsi dc jour en jour, d'annc'je en ann6e, de siftcle en si^cle, seloignant de la rive de I'Onlario, la chute du Niagara a recuU' vers le lac Illri^. Elle est aujourd'hui prestiue au milieu de I'espace qui sc'-pare les deux lacs ; A cjuatorze milles de I'un, A vingt-deux milles de I'autre. Le Niagara ne cesse de continuer son a-uvre ; doucemeiu, patiemment, invinciblement, il use la roche de laquelle il se pr(5cipite. On a pu mesurer son travail depuis qu'on I'observe ; aujourd'hui des gc'iologues pouraient determiner approximativement de combien de milliers d'annc^es le Niagara est Ag{\ lis pouraient nous dire aussi dans combien de milliers d'ann(''es il aura achev<5 de creuser entre les deux lacs son passage tourment6 et violent. II n'y aura plus alors de chute du Niagara; il n'y aura qu'un chenal iHroit oft I'eau se pr^cipitera, impc'tueuse, tourbillonnante et furieuse, avec rapiditc'i de la fl^che Mais, de meme que Thumanit^ n'a pas vu le commencement de ce travail, il est possible qu'elle n'en voie pas la fin. Actuellement, je I'ai dit, la chute du Niagara est situ^e au milieu des terres, et voici I'aspect qu'elle nous pr^sente. Au-dessus dc la chute, une masse d'eau large, relativement peu profonde, courant d'une vitesse extreme sur un lit form6 de blocs de rocher d(5tach6s et emport^s par le torrent. Tne ile situ6e au milieu du courant, flanqu6e de quelques ilots plus petits, rile des Ch6vres {Goa/ Island), divise cette masse d'eau en deux bras in^gaux. Le petit bras court A droite, du cat<5 do la rive am^ricaine, car le Niagara forme la liraite entre les fitats-Unis et la Canada ; le grand bras, trois fois large comme le premier, court A gauche, du c0t6 de la rive canadienne, I'eau, violemment roul6e sur ces blocs de rocher rejaillit, bondit, tourbillonne et dcume en tous sens ; ce sont \i\ ce que Ton appelle les " petits rapides." Au-dessous, A I'endroit oft se termine Goat Island, sont les chutes. D'un c6t6, la chute am^ricaine, la chute du petit bras, la petite chute; de I'autre, la grande chute, la chute can- adienne, le Horse-shoe, le Fer-A-cheval, ainsi nomm6e A cause de sa forme. De I'une comme de I'autre, d'une hauteur de cinquante-deux metres, le Niagara tout entier se pr6- cipite dans une immense cuve de roc, aux bords taill6s A pic. Et plus bas maintenant, c'est par une route 6troite, resserr6e entre deux parois escarp6es, que I'eau, incessamment vers^e par les deux chutes, se rue vers le lac Ontario. On a peine d'abord A concevoir au'elle puisse trouver place dans ce chenal resserr6. On n'est pas 6tonn6 d' apprendre qu'elle y atteigne la profondenr effrayante de cent quatre- vingt-dix pieds anglais, pr6s de soixante metres, une profondeur tout juste 6gale A lA hau- teur qui s^pare le niveau de I'eau de celui de rives elles-m^mes. On divine aussi quels effrayants remous, quelles luttes entre les divers courants s'agitant dans cette profondeur de soixante metres. Et c'est en eifet au-dessous des chutes du Niagara, A une distance de m mm W" V()YA(;K AU NIAdARA. 57 c Ontario ic mAme, evait f*tre eau a us<^ . ainsi de ntario, la milieu de de I'autre. ilement, il iis qu'on ; combien imbien de ;ourment6 1 /'troit oft la fl^che >t possible :s, et voici lativement l^tach^s et i ilots plus gaux. Le mite entre court & de rocher ppelle les la chute chute can- De I'une ier se pr6- nant, c'est ssamment sserr6. On nt quatre- A lA hau- lussi quels rofondeur istance de trois niilles environ que se produisent ces gigantesques lourbilloiiH qiu- I'oti nomme les " f^rands rapides " et qui ont coftto la vie au t<^m^^rairc capitainc W'chI). Maintenant que j'ai donni'> au lecteur une image de la scftnc aussi exacte qu'il a d6- pendu de mni, laissez-moi vous reconter bruWement notn- visite. II avail f)U- convi;nue que le lundi matin tout Ic monde scrait prPt A huit heurcsexact- ement : vous pensez bien que personne n'a 6t6 en retard. Les jiromesses du soleil couchant d'hier n'ont pas «5t«'' unc mensunge : le matint^e est radieuse et met la joie dans tous les yeux et tous les coeurs. Nous partons sous la conduite de surin- tendant du Niagara ; car le Niagara est aujourd'hui pro- pri(5t(5 nationale restitut*'" ^ la nature, et une fonction- naire y repr^sente le gouv- ernement. II a bien voulu se faire lui-m6me notre obli- geant cicerone. Nous franchissons le petit bras, le bras amdricaine, sur un pont dont le milieu s'appuie sur un dtroit tiet. En amont, I'eau moutonne, se brise sur les blocs de rocher, rejaillit en crates blanches, puis rebondit et jaillit encore. C'est un bruit qui tantAt s'enfle, tantdt diniinue ; et, sous le pont' avec une imp^tuosit*^- qui, attire, qui donne le vertige, Au-duMut l( Chut* Canaolinne. le COUraUt fuit. II VOUS souvient de ces tableaux oft RuysdaSl a r^present^ des torrents furieux, sautant sur leur lit de pierre ; alentour, un paysage d'hiver nu, d6charn6, sauvage ; sur I'eau noire et qu'on sent claire cependant, des cental.ies de taches blanches qui bouillonnent. Grandissez par I'imagination, en 6normes proportions, un de ces paysages de Ruysda'jl : vous aurez quelque id^e du spectacle que nous offre en cette saison la travers^e dr. petit bras du Niagara. Nous voici dans Tile des Ch6vres, h laquelle il ne manque, pour justifier son nom, que des chdvres. On y trac6 des allees pour les voitures et des chemins plus 6troits pour les KkOM CUV TO SURF. pWtons. Elle est rcmplie d'arbrcs d^ toute essence, d'ofi tomljciit en re moment Ie» dernii'Tcs feuilles. I)j distance en distance, ties inscriptions avertisscnt qu'il fst defendii, sous peine dt- I'amende ct de l.\ prison, de toucher ici A cjuoi que ce soit, de cueillir une fleur ou un brin d'herbe, de casser une branche. Trois ou (|uatre minutes nous Huffisent pour arriver i\ IV-xtremiti'i i;iferieure de I'ile, au bord du gouffre. Ici, un escalier muni d'une rampe soiide a i!t6 ^tabli ; nous traversons un ponceau, nous entrons dans un ilot, et voici devant nous, tout prds de nous, A notrc droite, la chute am6ricaine. Qu'on sc figure une immense table de marbrc A \'6x.trem'\t6 arrondic en forme d'arc de cercle : telle est la petite chute. L'eau arrive rapide, transparente, glissant sur la table de marbre qu'elle semble I6cher ; soudain le terrain lui manque; elle s'^lance dans I'abtme d'une hauteur de L«t Rtpidu CuntditnnM, d* I'll* de* ChcvrM, cinquante-deux metres avec un fracas assourdissant, ddcrivant une l^g6re courbe ; elle avance d'un mouvement tou jours 6g&\, impassible et irresistible. Du fond du gouffre rejaillit presqu'a mi-hauteur un dot d'^cume blanche. L'air est rempli tout autour de nous de fines gouttelettes d'eau r^duite en poussidre. Sur le nuage blanc, sous le clair soleil, un arc-en-ciel nous montre ses sept couleurs brillantes et un peu brutales. Sous nos pieds, presque au niveau de l'eau du gouffre, nous voyons une mince passerelle jet^e parmi les blocs de rocher : c'est ici que Ton pent s'avancer, p6n6trer sous la chute meme, s'aventurer sur la pierre glissante entre le rocher et I'^paisse nappe d'eau qui tombe. Nombre d'audacieuses am^ricaines, se tenant par le main, n'h^sitent pas A se hasarder lA ; mais personne dans la Delegation ne se sent I'humeur assez hardie ou ie pied assez solide pour leur faire concurrence. On assure, du reste, que ceux et celles qui ont fait cette VOVAliK AU NIA(iAKA. inument let est (lefenclii, llir une fleur iftiscnt pour muni d'unc Slot, et voici c figure une > est la petite I'elle semble hauteur de '^'-*'**^ ^^'■■^M. courbe ; elle du gouffre lit autour de sous le clair utales. Sous sserelle jet^e chute mfime, qui tombe. hasarder li\ ; assez solide int fait cette folie ne sunt jjui^re tenti^s de la ri'nouveler ; ( «• (|Ui! Ton en rapporte le plu«, ce nont de» cauchemars. Notre cicerone nous conduit lu.unt'inant de i'.iutre t:Att' de I'ile des (M»i\vres, au bra» canadien du Niat{ara. Nous voici tout pr«>s tic la ttrande chute, du Hontshot ; mais on ne la voit ici (]u'obli(|uenient et imparfaitment. Nous remontons I'tle des ChAvres ; nous franchissons un ilot, puis un second; nou» nous trouvons bientAt au i)or{| de I'eau bouillonnantc. C'est le mi'^me spectacle que celui du petit bras mais combien plus vaste et plus saississant ! I.es blocs entraini'nc sur la rive anu'ricaine, au bord du gouffre. 'I'out pr6s> i\ notre gauche, la ohute am«5ricaine s»' pn'cipitt^ ; au fond, en face de nous, le terrible Horseshoe, le Fer-^MJheval, lance dans I'abtme sa trombe d'eau toute blanche. Jamais nom ne fut mieux choisi que ce nom de " fer-i\cheval." Au centre, le rocher se creuse pro- fond^Jment, tanilis qu'il sasanct ;\ droite et i\ gauche. Quand nous avons bien regard^ ce spectacle, on nous iait preii e place -■ ms un jietit chemin de fer funiculaire qui descend dans le rocher avec une inclinaison df iarantccin({ degn'-s environ. Kn moins d'une minute nous sommes au fond du goi .n ;, presquc au niveau de I'eau. Nous voyons la chute am^ricaine tomber \\ c ' ' « nous, presqii ur nos totes ; nous somm.-s enveloppt'ia dune pluie fine. Lorsque nous remontons, un photographc est la avec ■ poareils tout prets, qui veut prendre le groupe de la Diil^gation. (''est, du reste, une mode ami^ricaine de se faire pho- tographier au Niagara. Et I'air est si pur en effet, que les photographies y viennent admira- blement. II serait difficile d'en imaginer de plus belles que celles que nous voyons ici, de toutes grandeurs, A tons les prix, qui reprt^sentent le Niagara sous tous ses aspects. Nou-i montons maintenant en voiture. Un peu au-dessous du gouffre, nous traverson* le Niagara sur un pont en fer hardi et d'une seule arche; le Niagara est large, en cet endroit, A peu pr6s comme la Seine au ponl des Saints- P^res. 1,'eau est claire, d"un bleu pflle, presque verdiitre, avec un tklat d'eniail persan. C'est pres d'ici que Blondin traversait le iv i, ra et faisait sur son fd ses etonnants exercice», portant sur son dos, tantOt ce poele sur lequel il fabriquuit et mangeaif une omelette au milieu dit passage, tantfit un homme qui certes ne devait p.is f'tre, plus que lui, uii poltron. Le po !■ en fer est 6troit ; il n'a que la largeur d'une voiture. Le givre et les glaces s'y "Cf iinulent en telles quantities durant la saison d'hiver, que I'audace am<'ricaine ^ lle- m(?me a craint qu'en Ic faisant plus large il ne fit';chit sous le poids. Apr6s le succds de I'exptSri^nce, il est question de I't'dargir aujourd'hui. Le pont franchi, nous sommes dans le Canada, sur le domaine de Sa gracieuse Majesty britannique, I'imp^ratrice des Indes. Nous remontons la riye canadienne durant quelques centaines de pas ; nous nous retrouvons au bord du gouffre, tout pres du Horseshoe. De 60 FROM CITY TO SURF. tous les spectacles que nous avons eus jusqu'ici sous les yeux, celui-ci est le plus mag- nifique. C'est un fleuve enorme qui tombe incessamment, avec un fracas assourdissant, du Fer-A-cheval. L'immense cuve s'enfonce devant nous. Rien de plus joli, de plus vari6. de plus harmonieux meme, au point de vue de la couleur, que I'ile des Ch6vres avec son paysage d^jA presque depouillti, \6 rive am6ricaine avec le village Niagara, I'eau verdfttre dans le lointain, le nuage blanc, 6pais au fond, de plus en plus Idger A mesure qu'il s'6l6ve de I'eau bris<5e dans la chute, qui remonte en mince poussidre ; les arcs-en-ciel qui se for- ment ^AetlA et se d^placent, par cette superbe journue, A mesure que le spec'ateur change de place lui-mSme. Mais on n'a gudre la pens^e de s'arrSter A ce qu'offre de gracieux et de joli ce spectacle. C'est i'effet imposant, terrible, du Horseshoe, de sa masse d'eau im- fell \\ A 1 V":; V : ^<^C-- •n^tmth^i % '%^ .■•-^ ■^•^^^ Vue Generale de let Chutea de NIagare, de la Rive Canadienne. ine : ^e, qui s'empare de I'esprit et qui le domine. Les plus bavards eux-mSmes n'euprou- Tent ici qu'un besoin : celui de se tair."*. La roche est plus tendre d' ce c6ie que sur la rive am^ricaine. Cnaque ann^e, le Horseshoe se creuse davantage."" C'est par ici que le Niagara se fraye son lit. Un jour viendra sans doute — dans quelquds siecles — of; 11 passera tout entier de ce c6tfe de I'ile des Chevres, od la chute am^ricaine aura disparu. Nous n'avons plus A visiter que les grands rapides, A quelques milles au-dessous des chutes. En un quart d'heure les voitures nous y ont conduits. Nous trouvons lA un nou- veau chemin de fer funiculaire, qui nous fait descendre presque au niveau de I'eau. Rien ■* Depuis notre voyage un ot)on ber eine, taetd^er innerl^otb beS UnionSgebietea liegt. Fort Shlosher Fall, ber anbere, ber l^alb gu ^ianaba geprt, Horse* shoe Fall (^ufeifen=i5all) gcnannt wirb. $)iefer ift ber grSjjerc, bei einer ®reite von beinol^e 2000 tvu6. 5)od^ ber anbere, obroo^t nur 1069 guft breit, ift ber fd^Snerc, roenn ^ier flber^oupt oerglid^en roerben fann, too [id^ fein gleid^mafiig iiberftd^tUd^eS S3ilb bietet unb }ebcr in feiner Slrt, bet na^erer 93etrad^tung, uberroottigenb roirlt. 93on oben l^erab gefel^en, BetUeren fie beibe an SBirfung; benn in ganger @rd^e geigenifie fi^ nur, roenn mon in i§t tiefgerounbeneS getfenbett l^inabfteigt, um fie mit aufroSrtS gerid^tetem SBlirfe gu betrod^ten. • ^Rir flel, nad^bcm roir ben SBSagen pcrlaffen l^atten, um bie giinftigftcn ^unfte ber 33e» tra^tmtg aufgufud^en, gunad^ft ber oben guerft genanntc fd^m&lere %aU. in bie 3lugen, bii* und 6 (65) mmM riaiMtim iBiU 60 FROM CITY TO SURF. Don ber linlcii i3eitc entgegenj^immertc, al8 luir bie 3d)vitte nad) bcv I)oI)cii .f^auflcbrucfe Icnften, rocld^e jiim conobifc^en Uffv I;inuberful)rt imb miv alS eiii iiiiinibev bcv il^aiifmift erj(l)ien. 3d) flcftc^e, baf} bieje frei unb fu()u buvd) bic Cuft gcfpaitntc ©rude, iibev lucldjc ebon eiii langer 33a()njiig l^inraffelte, bcfjeu (2d)n)cre fie nic^t im gcringftcii jii beroegeii jd)ien, loaljienb fie boc^ felbft jo leid)t unb feiii au^faf), luie aui 3)raf)t gelponiieii, mir atS ''Btxf von Weiiid)eii= l^anb beim er)teii ?liibUcf ciiieii nod) grofjem Ginbrud mac^te, ol8 bcv mit !Doniievget6ie iii bie Jiefe ftuvjfiibc 3(rm bc8 SfJiogarn. 3eiie SBvficfe bot mciiicm 5liige in i^rcr jicvUdjCK O^eftaltnng tvo|j bev lucitcn Spnnnung ein nSttig ubcvfid)tlid)e8 iMlb, iu6t)vcnb bie gciualtigen ai'affermafjen, bie fic^ wov mir fdjiueren S)vangc3 iiber bie gcl^Jiuanb l^crabroa^tcu, nnr oben in cincr geiDifien (>5leid)ma^igtcit fi(^tbar itieben, nad) unten fic^ met^r unb mctir (ofenb, jcrftattcrnb unb (2d)aumfiinfcn jprfi^enb, bie ©d^leier nnb btiljeube aDB6lW)en bilbeten, unter roctc^en bie Sturjftut in roilbcn UBivbeln uom angebriicfe, bic, burd^ 'Dra^tfciic an beiben Ufern gel)attcn unb fonft frei in ber J?uft fd^rocbenb, oon amerifonifc^em ©oben auf engUfcf)en fii^vt. ®ie beftel^t nuS jroci ©tocf^ roerfcn, rocld^e ju gteic^cr ^ext Staum fiir lange 93al^njuge, ^"(li'rocrf alter 3lrt, Steiter unb §u§gongcr bieteu. il?on ber 'iUiitte biefer 93rucfe auS gerool^rten roir juerft bie canabif(^eu J^oHe, boc^ in einer ©ntfevuung, roeld^e fie ni(^t grower erfc^einen lief}, alS bie oor^in gefc^ilbertcn. SKiv fu^ren bann nad) bem canabifd)cu Ufer l^iniiber, roeldt)cS, abgefe^en uou cinem uubebeutenben ^o^en= guge, in jicmlic^er ©utfevnung oom 9lanbe ber 9iiogarajd^lud)t ebenfo fta^ ift roie baS amcri= fouifd^e unb oud^ ebenfo roie bicfeS mit 9iiejen()0telS, 8anbl)Sufern unb inbianifc^en 93ajar8 gefd^mucft ober Bcrunjiert, roie man eS ne^meu mill, ^ier befinbet fid), nal)e am .»*'>ufeifenfall, aud^ ein fogenannted ^ufei. a, unb in geringev 6ntfernung baoon ift ber befte @tanbpun(t, um bie Siiagarofatle al3 ©efammtbilb ju feben. ®ie ftcil obfaUenbe ^icfleninfel (Goat Island) trennt ben oor unS bonnernben ^ufeifen= fall (fo genannt nad^ ber l^ufeifeniormigen gctSroanb, uber roelc^e ev fturjt) oon bem omerifa= nifd^en, unb ber ^Inblid biefer unerfd^opflid^en aBaffcrmaffen, beren aSud^t fic^ in unferer Jifibe om md^tigftn geigt, l^at bet il^rem blenbenben ^arbenfpiel, oon fc^neeigem iOiix^ biS gum fmaragbenen ©riin unb tiefbunfeln Slau, etroaS UebenoaitigcnbeS, rcogu bag feierlid^e ©d^allen, 9flaufc^en, ipifitfd^crn, 3'f^c" ""^ ©tiirmen ber ©turjflut ^alb erl^ebenb, ^Ib be= taubenb mitroirft. SBir ftiegen nad^ bem @efammtiiberbUdf oon oben fo tief l^inab, atd roir f ommen lonuten, um bie ^'yaUe oon unten gu fe^en, roo bie i^eldroanbe, uber roelc^e fie fid^ ro&tgen, in ganger .^d^e erfd^einen, unb flommen bann, einen longen 2Beg mac^eub, biS gur ^6^e ber gfiHe fffbfl empor, roo man einen grofeen SEl^eit ber ]|od^fd)aumenben ©tromfd^nellen, au8 weld^en f}< l^erabbonnern, uberfel^en tann.— „93om 2ltlantif(^en gum (atiUen Ocean". ,»)aiiflcbrucfc d)e ebcn eiii '11, iDat)veiiJ) II '!0iciiid)en= getSfe in bie I Spaniiiiug mil- jc^iuevcn gtcit flc^tbar pvfil)ciib, bie IBivbedi worn ten, niad)tert ben fleflosen ber ,3fi"^f^f leu, gefteljcu, DoHftanbig ; n imb taglic^ iig, nav eben )ic impofante ill ber i?iift jroei (Storf- t, SReitev imb bo^ in einet 2Biv futiren enben ^o^en= lie baS amevi* ifc^en 93ajar8 i^ufeifenfall, anbpunft, iiin ben .^ufeijeiu bem ainerifa= 1 unferer 5Jlal)e Seife bi3 jam baS feicrli(j^e enb, ^olb be= nmen fonnten, n ganjer ^Hf^t er gSOe jrfbft . Id weld^en fl^ . Niagara. Srflb war ber ^immel, als \d) juerfl bid; fo^ 3n beiner mirben ©rijge, 9?iagora ! mt feme* 3)oitiiern fc^dig mir beiw ©d^nH in9 Ol^r, aw mctn Slid pc^ tm ©itc^eii iiodj) btr serlor 3m ftaOftn, uerobeten aBintergefllbe, »crbilflert tntd) Ueiexne SHSoIfeugc' "be. 2)od^ nailer uiib na^er ftets prt' td> eS ft^aHen, Ste weiin SBafferbergt an gelfeit jerpraaen 3!m itnenbUd^en SWeer, oom DrFane ge^ioben, SWit unfld^tbareit $anben gefd()Ieitbfrt mO) oteii. Sa ploftl^ er^ebt fld^ t)ot mir ein ©eflimmer »on »erfprU^enbem ©(i^oum, ber in tigeiiem ©c^immet au« ber lieft aiiffJeigt, urb ein ffioltengeroimmel (grjeugt, »eit gfonjenber al» ba« am ©immcl. Unb id) folge bem Olanj, unb jal)ltng8 t^nt ©id) ein abgrunb auf tJoH bemantener ®lnt, ffio bie mad;tig flttrjenben ©offer Don oben lief unten serflieben mit bonnernbem loben. 2)a wflljit ti unb banmt fle^ unb wirbelt nub gSrt 3tt toermirreuber SBut^, bod^i liebjit^ Derttart ®urd? »erf(^reiernb Oemfii! and berfprU^enbem ©d^aum, 3)o» ft* fd^immernb er^ebt, Uiil)t fc^webenb bie ^loum. Sinn, al8 trflg' er bem ©tanje oer Jiefe 9ieib, Serreigt aud^ ber ^immef fein ffloIfenHeib Unb bie @onue giegt il>re gonje (Btut $inab in bie tofeube SBafferflut, Um in fla(I;tigen iBilbern nod^ @d>onte« )u |eigen, af« an ewigem ©lanae i^r felber su eigen. ®ie ©tnrjflMten Irinfen ben fonnigen ®Ian} * (67) ^M «iil 68 FROM CITY TO SURF. Unb flral|(en i^n toitUt, gcfSttigt gait) Unb wie llttnfKer tnit gottDerliel^utn (9emalttii 9nl {i(^ f((bf) bte erl^abcnflen Silber gcfialtcn, @o fdytint null in bf4 {Rlagara Sorben 9tbe 88(ttt, iebtr Xropfen )um Aaufi(er geroorbtn, Uiib ®df'intxt9 lommt burc^ fie an btu Xag, VU mtnfd^Iid^r* @(^affeu )u bilbrn bftntag. 2)ie SSBogen g(fll)(ii Don ®d;bitl)eit tninfen, ^m btn ®(^aumtiouen fpringeu bliljenbe Suiiten, (Se Idt^ttt in aUen Sormen unb ^arbcu: $ter er^cbtu fii^ ft^immernbt <3tral;(tngaTben, ISovt, ttbtv bie 3ridtnfc( gejogeu, (^rocbt l)o4 etu bUT(^fi(^tiger Wegcnbogtn, Unb barunter bit ^el^roaub flcntmt auf btu 99egtn St« gtnaltigtn , @o fittimifc^ im XBtd^fel, bo^ immtr {i^ gleid^ 3n btaaubtrnbtr SOtad^t urgtmaltigtn @tin9 Unb ^t^Ttr ®ebt(bt bt« @(^aae« unb ®(i^tin«. Irflb war btr ^irrmel, al9 i(^ juerfl liif fol> 3u beinci miibtn ®T5gt, 9iiagaia, Unb bie @onttt roar fd)on im Unttrgt^n %li iO) fam, bi(^ gum (c<}ten SVIale gu ft^n. Unb bu biegefl inid> felbfl tief ^inunterfleigen, Urn bi(4 niir in boUer ®roge gn geigen 3m tiefen, gerounbeuen ^elfenbette. 2)id> umragt teiut fdyimmernbe eergt '-.■itjrf*»i'.ieifei-* 70 FROM CITY TO SURF. .m^i's. ,•?,• 5«pBp^ ^■^.^■■« ^ ^^V,C7 The design is what is known as the cantilever bridge, the principle of which is that of a trussed beam, supported at or near its centre, with the arms extending each way, and one end anchored or counterweighted to provide for unequal loading. It was in practice entirely novel, no other bridge having then been com- pleted upon this principle. Each end is made up of a section entirely of steel, extending from the shore nearly half way over the chasm. Each section is supported near its centre by a strong steel tower, from which extend two lever arms, one reaching the rocky bluffs, the other extending over the river 175 feet beyond the towers. The outer arm having no support, and being subject like the other to the weight of trains, Buiwingtha Pftnofih* c«niii««r. a counter advantage is given by the shore arm being firmly anchored to the rocks on the shore. The towers on either side rise from the water's edge; between them a clear span of 495 feet over the river, the longest double-track truss-span in the world. The ends of the cantilevers reaching on each side 395 feet from the abutments, leave a gap of 1 20 feet filled by an ordinary truss bridge hung from the ends of the cantilevers. Here provision is made for expansion and contraction by an ingenious arrangement between the ends of the truss bridge and of the cantilevers, allowing the ends to move freely as the temperature changes, but at the same time pre- serving perfect rigidity against side pressure from the wind. There are no guys for this purpose, as in a suspension bridge; but the structure Conrtructing Show Arm of th« c.ntii.ytr. jj. complete within itsclf. The total length of the bridge is 910 feet. It has a double track, and is strong- enough to carry upon each track at the same time the heaviest freight train, extending the entire length of the bridge, headed by two " consolidation " engines, and under a side pressure of thirty pounds per square foot, produced by a wind having a velocity of seventy-five *i.* i iil 'iinni II THE CANTII,EVKR IJRIIKIK. 71 is tliat of way, and the rocks ; between pan in the cantilevers 5 feet from {ap of 1 20 nary truss nds of the on is made iraction by nt between [Ige and of T the ends jmperature e time pre- gainst side There are se, as in a e structure The total h to carry tire length jressure of eventy-five ■ ■"■.'■ re Mi, it'' - /■^''.,i»^>'';-*- ' ,v i Im'T'^''^'^ 11 m J ■ ^ ^^ . kl**! iR :x9mKijnfBm miles per hour, and even then will ho strained to only one-fifth of its ultimate strength. The foundations rest on the solid rock ; four blocks of most substantial masonry are carried up fifty feet above the surface of the water, and from these the steel towers supporting the cantilevers rise 130 feet. The load of 1,600 tons that comes upon each pair of steel columns is so distributed that the pressure upon the foundation rocks is only 25 pounds per square inch. From the tower foundations up, the whole bridge is steel, every inch of which was subjected to the most rigid tests from the time it left the ore to the time it entered the structure. • The structure has very much the appearance of an ordinary truss bridge, but, in view of the conditions and surroundings, very different in the manner of its erection. The towers on the water's edge and the shore arms of the cantilevers have, of course, been erected with the help of temporary scaffoldings and a resting point on terra firma, and the superstructure was easily put in place from the shore to the steel towers. Hut after this came the difTicult portion of the work, /. <•., to span the 495 feet across and 239 feet above a roaring river whose force no earthly power can stay. No temporary structure could sur- vive a moment, and here the skill of the engineer came in to control the powers of nature. The design of the cantilever is such that, after the shore arm was completed and anchored, the river arm was built out, one panel or section at a time, by Conrtnjcting th« Rivtr Arm of «h« c«ntii«v«r. mcausof great traveling der- ricks, and self-sustaining as it progressed. After one panel of twenty-five feet was built and had its bracing adjusted, the derrick was moved forward and another panel erected. Thus the work progressed, section by section, until the ends of the cantilevers were reached, when a truss bridge was swung across the gap of 120 feet, resting on the ends of the cantilever arms, thus forming the connecting link. The contract with the Central Bridge Company of Buffalo was signed April II, 1883, and the plans were approved by Mr. C. C. Schneider, Chief Engineer, on the 3d of May. Work was at once begun, and in less than seven months, December I, 1883, the bridge was completed. It was rigorously tested on the 20th of Decem- ber, and, under the tremendous weight of eighteen locomotives and twenty-four heavily loaded gravel cars, showed a temporary deflection of but six inches, proving to be a grand and perfect success. 'K l M WM t^m^aeti^l^ 3u«»ii:£:^ -tjtiS^Ta ammmmmmtmmmmumm* S^M Niagara Falls in Winter, from Prospect Park. From Photograph by George Barker. (72) NIAGARA IN WINTER. .OMPARATIVELY few persons are aware of the scenes of surpassing beauty presented by the cataract of Niagara in winter. Its appearance is then even more attractive and glorious than in the summer. The trees are covered with the most brilliant and sparkling corusca- tions of snow and ice ; the islands, the shrubs, the giant rocks, are robed in the same spotless vesture. Frozen spray, glittering and gleam- ing as brightly and vivaciously as frozen sunlight, encases all things. Niagara Falls is the absolute domain of the Ice King. In bright sun- shine, the flashing rays from millions of gems produce a bewitching effect. "At such a moment, the characteristic attributes of Niagara seem fused and heightened into 'something more exquisite still.' Its intrinsic sublimity and beauty experience a liberal transfiguration. Nature is visibly idealized. Nothing more brilliant or enchanting can be conceived. The brightest tales of magic ' pale their ineffectual fires ' ! Islands who.se flowers are thickset diamonds, and forests whose branches are glittering with brilliants, and amethysts, and pearls, seem no longer a luxurious figment of genius, but a living and beaming reality. One feels, in the midst of such blazing (TO) IM»M»MI—— I— — Mi— — — »«— ■«— — — — II I I ^—^ ^—»i «— — ■■II I I n il III! I II 74 FROM CITY TO SURF. Iclolat and SttiigmiUt under American Fall. Stream being closed below, "and form a natural bridge across it. As they accumulate, they get pro- gressively piled up, like a Cyclo- pean wall, built of huge blocks of ice instead of stone. TIms singu- lar masonry of nature gets ce- mented by the spray, which, rising in clouds of mist as usual from the foot of the Falls, attaches itself in its upward progress to the icy wall, and soon gets frozen with the rest of the mass, helping to fill up the interstices between the larger blocks of which this architecture is composed." This icy wall or mound rises up from the base of the torrent in a bulwark of pyramidal form, in front of the Falls, within a few feet of the edge of the precipice, to a height sometimes of from coruscations, and such glorious bursts of ra- diance, as if the magician's ring had been slipped upon his finger unawares, and, rubbed unwittingly, had summoned the gorgeous scene before him. It is as if Mammoth Cave, with its groves of stalactites, and crys- tal bowers, and (lothic avenues and hills, and star chambers, and flashing grott(/es, were suddenly uncapped to the wintry sun, and bathed in his thrilling beams ; or, as if the fabled palace of Neptune had risen ab- ruptly from the deep, and were flinging its splendors in the eye of heaven." Upon the occurrence of a thaw sufficient to break up the ice in Lake Erie, masses of floating ice, dissevered from the frozen lake and stream above, are precipitated over the Falls in blocks of several tons each. These remain at the foot of the cataract, from the Winter Foliag* on Goat (eland. NIAGARA IN WINTER. 75 rsts of ra- had been nd, rubbed gorgeous Mammoth I, and crys- and hills, J grott( excellent hotels will be found at all these points, and all afford unlimited opportuniti- .or boating, sailing, (TO) mmi. 80 FROM CITY TO SURF. tVvl Entrane* ta th* Lake of th» Thouiv^d litandi. fishing or other forms of pleas- uring. A delightful trip may be had by taking the Island Wandertr, which plies on an intricate route between Alex- andria Bay, Thousand Island Park, Round Island Park,Gan- anoque and Westminster Park, through tortuous channels and amidst the islands of innumer- able shapes, sizes and char- acter ; but to hire a boat and wander at one's own sweet will through the mazes of this marvelous archipelago results in the highest and most unal- loyed enjoyment. According to the Treaty of Ghent, there are r.,692 of these islands, but really more than 1,800 are counted, many of them but a few feet of granite rock, or with but a single tree laving its branches in the cool waters, but others of a thousand acres in area. Some are bare as the hand, some verdant and grass- grown, others thickly umbrageous with forest trees ; and shelving beaches of sand or shingle alternate with precipitous cliffs rising sheer from the channel. Several of these islands — Pullman's, Little Angel, Comfort, Cherry and Wau-Winet — are owned in Chicago, and very many are adorned by buildings in every style, from the modest sum- mer cottage to the magnificent villa and imposing caravansary, and numerous summer-resort, fishing and canoe associations and clubs have their headquarters here. Game is sufficiently abundant at no great distance, and the cold green waters fairly swarm with the gamy mus- kallonge, the bass, the salmon trout and other members of the finny Tho««nd i.i.nd., near Ai.x.ndri. B.y. "Jbc. " During the summcr season. THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 81 f^i JUL. 1 1, 800 are le laving its are bare as and grass- umbrageous 1 shelving le alternate ising sheer al of these tie Angel, lU-Winet — and very |uildings in •dest sum- lificent villa iary, and shing and lubs have Game is no great :en waters |amy nius- Imon trout the finny ler season. I the islands fairly teem with life, and the reticulated channel of the river is flecked with the little sailing yachts and pleasure boats which ply among the islands like gondolas amid the palaces of water-bound Venice. Nor does the .scene close with the wane of day; as the setting sun gilds the nestling isles with his parting ray, and the evening shades draw on apace, the glow of lights from one island is soon followed by the friendly response from another, then another, until the illuminated spectacle rivals even Venice herself in the splendors of a carnival dres»." Leaving Alexandria Bay, which is but twelve miles below Clayton, on one of the fine steamers of the Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company, the tourist enjoys a view of most of the Thousand Islands, which, commencing near Clayton, end with the Three Sisters, near Brockville and Morristown. Although the islands below Alexandria Bay are not so attractive as those above, the scenery generally is of a wild and interesting nature. Brockville (thirty-six miles), the termmus of a branch of the Canadian Pacific, is a sub- stantial town of 7,000 inhabitants, with numerous fine private properties along the rugged river front, and is the prettiest city between Montreal and Toronto. Im- mediately opposite is Morristown, on the line of the Utica & Black River road. Ogdensburg (forty-eight miles), at the mouth of the Oswegatchie, is the largest and most affluent town in Northern New York, and is the junc- tion point of the Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg, the Utica & Black River, and Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain Railroads, and has a population of £1 nearly ten thousand, largely engaged in manufacturing and internal commerce. It has pleasant vistas through its beautiful maples, and an interesting history. T he commingling of the deep brown waters of the Oswegatchie with the clear green of the St. Lawrence is a curious sight. Opposite is the solid-looking little town of Prescott, terminus of a branch line of the Canadian Pacific running to Ottawa, the Dominion Capital. Holow are the first of a .series of rapids, Les Gailopes and the Rapide de Plat, not particularly exciting, but serving as preludes to the greater ones to come. Leaving Dickinson's Landing, the steamer turns out into the swift current, and a mile ahead may be seen the white stormy waters of the Long Sault stretching from shore to shore. There is a sudden cessation of the e«^ine's pulsations, and we feel the strength of the current. Extra men are at the wheel, and others aft at a spare tiller. We plunge over a cascade at "the cellar," and the spirits, even of the nervous, rise. We enter the vast expanse of broken waters, and, glancing at the shore, note the great rapidity of our passage. In front is a vast billow, seemingly motionless as a wall, of the berutiful deep III* Royal, Thounnd lilandt. M FROM CITY TO SURF. n ^i emerald hue we noted in the centre of the Horseshoe Fall at Niagara, and we hold our breath as the gallant steamer cleaves its way, only to meet a second, a third, a fourth beyond it. There are several miles of swift water yet to come; but the passage of the raging billows of the rapids is over in three minutes. Eleven miles below Dickinson's we pass Cornwall, the terminus of the ship canal around the rapids, and four miles farther, on the right bank, we see the Indian village of St. Regis, bisected by the international boundary line, and take our leave of the United States. Dinner is announced as the steamer emerges on the broad Lake St. Francis, twenty-five miles in length. On leaving it we dash down the Coteau Rapids, two miles long, the Cedars, three miles, the Split Rock, most formidable of all these, and the Cas- cades. The waters and ourselves take breath again for the final plunge as we cross the twelve miles of Lake St. Louis, into which are poured the muddy waters of the Ottawa, at Tht Ladiin* Rapids of the St. Lawranot. the head of the island of Montreal. From Lachine we see the bold outline of Mount Royal against the sky and the snowy breastwork of the Lachine Rapids across our path. Opposite the Iroquois village of Caughnawaga the paddles cease to revolve, and, as we drift steadily down, the famous Indian pilot, Baptiste, climbs on board from his bateau and takes command at the wheel, as he has done for forty summers. The current grows swifter and swifter. Down the steep declivity of foam, with rocks and reefs and sunken ledges in front and on either hand, we plunge with an arrow's speed. This side and that the steamer swerves and sweeps, escaping destruction time and again by a hair's breadth. At last, as we glide under the great Victoria Tubular Bridge, above the city, we release the tension of nerves and muscles, and marvel at the skill and courage that has guided us safely through the perils of the descent. The danger, however, is much more apparent than real ; for the sturdy pilots have made these rapids the study of their lives, and no accidents have ever happened. THK Sr. LAWRENCE RIVER. 83 : hold our , a fourth ige of the ship canal 1 village of he United it. Francis, , two miles d the Cas- e cross the Ottawa, at j of Mount ss our path, and, as we his bateau irrent grows and sunken ide and that ir's breadth, release the guided us )re apparent ives, and no Montreal, the metropolis of the Dominion, has a population of nearly 150,000, and a foreign commerce of seventy millions annually. No Canadian city is better known to Ameiicans, and many of our readers will need no description of this picturesque town of gray limestone, with tall spires and glittering roofs and domes backed by Mont R<''al ; its miles of solid limestone quays and docks and wharfs lined with shipping ; its large and magnificent cathedrals and churches ; its spacious market and court-house and city hall ; McGill College and its unrivaled museum, in which, under the tutorship of Sir William Logan, Trollope thought that even he might become a geologist; and the great bridges -over the St. Lawrence. All these, and the beautiful drive through Mount Royal Park and around the mountain, are familiar to all readers by innumerable pictures and descriptions. After one or more nights in Montreal, the tourist may again take one of the daily steamers of this line 180 miles farther down the river to the quaint old city of Quebec. Varennes, fifteen miles below Montreal, has valuable mineral spiings; but the first landing 4nade by the through steamer is at Sorel (forty-five miles), a small place at the mouth of the Richelieu, with good fishing in the vicinity, and in the autumn excellent snipe shooting. Five miles below the river expands into Lake St. Peter, twent)-five miles long and nine miles wide, shallow, with crooked and narrow channel, and noted for its storms. Half way to Quebec is Three Rivers, at the mouth of the St. Maurice, with a population of nine or ten thousand and an important lumber market. Twenty-six miles distant by stage are the famous St. Leon Springs, and thirty miles up the St. Maurice are the Falls of the Sha- wanegan, with a sheer descent of 150 feet, and second in mag- nitude only to Niagara. Nothing more of interest is seen until Quebec comes in sight, rising majestically from the river. This, the oldest, quaintest and most picturesque of Canadian cities, is almost as well known as Montreal. The old city is a walled triaigular tow. chre<; miles in circumference .and with five gateways, three communicating with the lower town, — the St. Louis gate, a l)eautiful Norman structure leading to the Plains of Abraham, and St. John's, opening to Beauport and St. Roche. The leading attractions are the (J rsuline Convent, the great Laval University, the Basilica, and, above all, the superb outlook from the Dufferin Terrace. The drives about the city are very interesting, particularly to the Indian village •of Lorette, and down the beautiful Beauport road to the Falls of Montmorenci, 250 feet high. The Chaudiere Falls, and the Falls of Ste. Anne, are also very wild and beautiful. Passing the Isle of Orleans, below Quebec, the St. Lawrence attains and keeps a width of about twenty miles, with eighteen-feet tides, and the scene is often enlivened by seals and porpoises playing in the clear salt water. Touching at Murray Bay, Rividre du Loup and Cacouna, the Newport of Canada, the steamer crosses the river to Tadousac, 134 miles from Quebec, and passes up the vast wild cailon through which the Saguena} pours Montretl from th« Mountain. 84 FROM CnV lO SURF. its black waters. Lofty peaks and palih.ulea tover on either side ail the thirty-four miles to I'rinity Bay. which is guarded by the majestic Capes Trinity and Eternity, rising grandly two thousand feet above the dark waters six hundred fathoms deep. Of this impressive scen- ery, Bayard Tay- lor said, " I doubt whether a sublimer picture of the wil- derness is to be found on this con- tinent," and How- ells wrote, in A Chance Acquaint- ance, " The rock [Cape Eternity] fully justifies its attributive height to the eye, which follows the upward ^••'" '^"""i' '"'* ^*""'*>'- rush of the mighty acclivity, steep after steep, till it wins the cloud-capt summit, when the measureless mass seems to swing and sway overhead, and the nerves tremble with the same terror that besets him who looks downward from the verge of a lofty precipice. It is wholly grim and stern ; no touch of beauty relieves the austere majesty of that presence. Cape Trinity is yet loftier than its sister cliff ; but it slopes gently backward from the stream, and from foot to crest it is heavily cloth- ed with a forest of pines. The summit is crowned with the mass of their dark green plumes, dense and soft Trinity Gov,, S.gu.«y Riv.,. ^^^ beaUtiful ; so that the spirit, perturbed by the spectacle of the other cliff, is calmed and assuaged by the serene grandeur of this." Statue Point and Les Tableaux are next passed, and then Ha-Ha Bay is reached, with Chicoutimi above at the head of ship navigation. Here is a good hotel, a cathedral and convent, and a new stone college, and the Chicoutimi River, swarming with fish, plunges over a fall of fifty feet before entering the Saguenay. thirty-four d Eternity, ep. Of this immit, when ible with the irecipice. It hat presence, ird from the ream, and •om foot to rest it is eavily cloth- d with a arest of pines, 'he summit I crowned 'ith the mass f their dark reen plumes, ense and soft nd beautiful ; md assuaged reached, with :athedral and fish, plunges THE ADIRONDACKS. "It is the glory of the Adirondack Mountains," says Wallace Bruce, "that no traveler has been able to liken them to any other part of the earth's surface, but that they stand alone in their peculiar type of sublimity and beauty;" and the Rev. Mr. Murray says that an American artist, traveling in Europe, wrote home, that, having traveled all over Switzer- land, and the Rhine and Rhone regions, he had not met with scenery which, "judged from a purely artistic point of view, combined so many beauties in connection with such grandeur as the lakes, mountains and for- ests of the Adirondack region presented to the gazer's eye. " This great wilderness of mountain and valley, lake and forest, within a few hours' ride of the mo.st populous Eastern cities, was, within a few years, very difficult of access, and but little ex- In the Adirondacki. (85) i rnM^iUJM. l i Wl W Ia t,>g»t?jli/ia^*Mim 86 FROM CITY TO SURF ^ plored. New York has recently made it • State Reservation or Parle, and appointed a* its Buperiiitendcnt a gentleman who has i,i de its exploration, survey and protection the chief employment of his life. Lines of rail surround it, sending out here and there little branches to pierce its fastnesses, while the echoes of its solitudes are awakened by the rumble of the great old-fash- ioned stage coaches on its mountain roads. The mountains rise fro!" i pla- teau some ^. , =;; ^^^J^, of which any State can boast crowning her Cap.tohan H,l ^ e deep azu^e the Helderbergs are relieved by the paler hue of the western sky. And fa. do lerThe magnificent heights of the Catskills stand ou. with photographtc sh rpness rclelesf, bu. wi.b such beau.y of color as no pho.ographer can ever dep.c. It is a scene that will live longer in the memory than many of wider note. VILVout beyond the bills of the Hudson, .he route traverses a rich agricultural ^ntL^rr or irrCeSLd the Hudson -b "f ^ ^ ^^^^^ Leaving this sterile but picturesque region, the State hue is crossed, old G'^v'"* ;°»" ^rhl and the region of the Berkshire bills is entered. From this point to the Connecticut (90) J!^ FROM AI.HANY TO BOSTON. 91 ^^'r- \f^ I. juble-track of superior te in New 1 climbs the )ridge from as unrolled The broad before him ed with its een islands, smoke of ler off rises ^dirondacks. of buildings masses of ar down the sharpness depict. It agricultural :s the Tagh- nction of the ton & Albany, lock comes in e Connecticut River every mile of the way is of enchanting loveliness or of remarkable grandeur. Less elevated than many other portions of the great Appalachian system, it lacks none of the elements of beauty and picturesqueness. Right in the centre of this magnificent region is Pittsfield (fifty-one miles), a beautiful city of 15,000 inhabitants. It has a costly and handsome station, numerous fine buildings, an interesting history of a century and a half, and many poetic and literary associations. Here is the old Appleton mansion, in which stood The Old Clock on the Stairs, of Longfellow. Here Lord Coleridge declared that "England has nothing more pleasingly picturesque than Berkshire." Here in the city park, called the Heart of Berkshire, a noble soldiers' monument, surmounted by a fine Color Bearer, by Launt Thompson, testifies to the heroism and patriotic devotion of her sons. Here was the home of Thomas Allen, whose life of rare usefulness and practical benevolence was of more than local beneficence. E.\tensive manufactures, chiefly of textile fabrics, give employment to thousands, beautiful villas abound on the suburban streets, and the lofty Taconic and Hoosac Hills environ the city. A couple of miles distant are Lakes Onota and Pontoosuc, and the hills and mountains .'"are full of romantic points. The Housatonic Railroad runs ■' .southward through "wonderfully picturesque and sometimes ' splendidly gloomy scenery." Northward runs a branch of the Boston & Albany Railroad to ^North Adams, in the Hoosac Valley, famous for its sheep, its cheese, its manufactures and its glorious scenery. Near by is the marble arch of its Natural Bridge, and towering above the valley is the majestic Grey- lock, the highest mountain in Massachusetts, and commanding a view " immense and of amazing grandeur." Leaving Pittsfield, the rocky defiles of the Hoosac Mountains are piereed and the scenes of the passage of the Berkshires repeated. The Alpine character of the landscape is frequently very striking. " In approaching the summit level you travel bridges built a hundred feet above mountain streams, tearing along their deep-worn beds; and at the ' deep cut ' your passage is hewn through solid rocks, whose mighty walls frown over you." Running down the deep descent for thirteen miles to Chester, we follow the winding course of the Pontoosuc, ever fretting in its rocky bed, cramped between the track and the precipitous granite hillsides, leaping down the preci- pices, laughing in the dimpled sunshine, and hiding behind knotty copses of evergreen. On, down the narrow valleys of the Westfield River, the mighty mountain masses seem to constantly crowd upon the vision, and the wooded heights and bare granite peaks contract the sky above; and, when the view broadens out at the lower level, there are "on every side rich valleys and smiling hillsides, and, deep set in their hollows, lovely lakes sparkle like gems." Westfield (ninety-three miles) is a busy village, making two and a half million whips and ten or twelve million cigars annually. It has a fine soldiers' monument and the State Normal School. We pass Pochassic Hill and Mount Tekoa <.t2 TKOM CI ^^' lO SURK on the left, and meet the broad meadows of the Connecticut, basking in their rich iiiherit- an<:c of alluvial soil and unimpeded sunshine. Th'j river crossed on a long bridge, and we enter Springfield (103 miles), a handsome city of over 35,000 inhabitants, with extensive manufactures of arms, cars, paper, metallic goods, etc, employing more than eight millions of capital and seven thousand hands. Unity, Christ and Memorial Churches, tlie (!ity Library, with fii'ty thousand volumes, and the granite Coi'rt House, are all unusually fine buildings. On a park of seventy-two acres stands tht great quadrangle of the United States Armory, where nearly 800,000 stand of arms were .nade during the war of the rebellion. In serried ranks are to be seen 175,000, symmetrically arranged. "This is the Arsenal. From fli>or to ceiling, Like a huge organ, rise the burnished arms ; But from their silent pipes no anthem pealing Startles the villages with strange alarms." Passing through Wilbraham, the seat of the great Wesleyan Academy and famous for its beautiful scenery; Palmer, where th& Ware River and New London Railroad di- verge; and Urookfield, a large, well-to-do, charming village, — we reach Worcester (157 miles), the second city in the commonwealth in wealth and population, halting in the Union Railroad Station, an Boirton tc Albiny R. R. Stitlon, Kneeltnd Stittt. Boston. imposing granite building 5 1 4 by 256 feet, with a graceful stone clock tower 200 feet high. Worcester boasts many noble edifices, and in her soldiers' monument, designed by Randolph Rogers, has one of the finest monumental structures in the country. But her chief claim is to the title of an academic city, and her greatest pride is in her numerous fine schools and higher educational institutions, prominent among which are the State Normal School and the Free Institute of Industrial Science, admirably conducted and richly endowed. It is aJso an important railroad centre, the Boston, Barre & Gardner, the New York & New England, the Providence & Worcester, the Worcester, Nashua & Rochester and the Worcester & Shrewsbury all meeting the Boston & Albany here. Dummy cars and omnibuses run out to the beautiful and popular resorts at Lake Quinsigamond, past which we go in continuing our route to Boston. South Framingham, the Chautauqua of New England, is the junction of the Lowell Division, upon which is Sudbury, the location of Longfellow's IVayside Inn. We pass through the wealthy suburban city of Newton, and thence the route is lined with numer- wniMiiHiiiiik>- ^m I'ROM A I, HAN V TO MOSTON. 08 li iiiherit- klge, and extensive It millions t'.ie C:ity sually fine le United rdt of the IVilbraham, it Wesleyan ous for its '; Palmer, River and ailroad di- eld, a large, ig village, — :ester (157 city in the wealth and ig in the Station, an building 514 boasts many as one of the e title of an and higher hool and the owed. It is York & New jster and the my cars and id, past which ous pretty suburban villages. Brighton, the great cattle market, is passed, tl\e Charles River is approached on the left, the spires of Cambridge and the populous heights of Charlestown are seen, and a fine view is had of tlie compart and more ancient parts of Boston, before running into the elegant depot of the line on Kneeland Street, but a little distance from the cit>'s best hotels. "This approach," .says Bayard Ta, .or, "is almost the only picturesipie city view we have on the Atlantic coast. The broad reaches of water ; the cheerful suburbs on either hand ; the long, gently rising brick hill in front, crowned with the yellow dome of the State House, when seen in the tempered evening light, under a cloudless sky, form an imposing and truly attractive picture. New York, from the bay, suggests commercial activity only ; Philadelphia, from the Delaware, is the tamest of cities ; but Boston, from any side, owing to her elevation, has a stately charm which her prouder sisters do not possess." The salt .sea air is grateful to the traveler's nostrils, and, after he has wandered over Boston Common, under the classic shades of Cambridge, and through the i)eautiful and altogether charming suburbs of the city, bathed in the surf at some of the delightful seaside resorts near at hand, and steeped himself in the historic and literary associations that everywhere surround him, from the Old South Church and Faneuil Hall to Concord Bridge and Lexington C.reen, he is ready for the White Mountains, the lovely lakes of New Hampshire and Maine, shadowed by green hills and lofty mountains and swarming with finny prey. The beautiful city and harbor of Portland, Bar Harbor and Mount Desert— grandest and most delightful of all the numerous resorts on the rock-bound coast of Maine — may be conveniently and speedily reached by the lu.xurious vestibuled limited trains of the Boston & Maine Railroad, or by the International or other coasting steamers which ply to the ports of Maine and the maritime provinces. of the Lowell nn. We pass d with numer- THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. ■mi [he principal entrance to the Wiiite Mountain region of New Hamp- shire is by the Boston & Lowell Railroad from Boston via Concord, or by the Boston & Maine via Portsmouth and Conway. The main line of the Boston & Lowell from Boston passes through the great manufacturing city of Lowell, and thence follows the course of the beautiful Merrimac, through Nashua, Manchester and Hookset, affording, at every turn, varied views of the pic- turesque landscape. From Concord, the charming capital of the State, and an important railroad centre, the country becomes wilder and more mountainous. At Laconia, the Belknap range is seen upon the right, and a glimpse of Mount Washington is caught in skirting the shore of Round Bay. Passing Lake Village, the outlet of Lake Winnipesaukee is crossed, and for four or five miles the road follows Long Bay, across which fine glimpses are had of the Ossipee Range, with Mt. Chocorua on its northern slope. Just beyond, 109 miles from Boston, we stop at the Weirs, the landing place of the steamer Lady of the Lake, which meets all express trains at this station, and plies to Centre Harbor, at the head of the lake, and Wolfboro', on the eastern side. This charming tour of the lake should in no wise be omitted, even if the tourist does not visit the sequestered loveliness of Squam Lake, or climb the heights of Red Hill and Ossipee Mountain for the magnificent views that will well reward his efforts. The crystal waters of Winnipesaukee, " the Smile of the Great Spirit," reflect the shadows of several bold mountains, and surround nearly three hundred islands of various sizes. The poetry of Percival and of Whittier have been often inspired by this romantic region, and Everett declared, after his extended tour in Europe, that his " eye has yet to rest on a lovelier scene than that which smiles around you as you sail from Weir's Landing to Centre Harbor." As we proceed northward the heights of the White Mountain region loom up in varied combinations, and but a few miles beyond the Weirs we can see from the train, beyond Lake Waukawan, the peaks of Moosilauke, Plymouth, Prospect, Sandwich Dome, Tri- Pyramid, White Face and Passaconaway. Plymouth is an important town at the junction of the Pemigewasset branch running up to the Franconia Notch, and is the chief dining station on the line. It is quite a famous and popular resort, and is located in the midst of beautiful scenery and intervales broad and picturesque, with beautiful scattered elms, (94) i THK WHIIK MOUN'IAINS. w K Hamp- Concord, ay. The through Hows the anchester the pic- tal of the ilder and upon the )und Bay. ur or five ee Range, I, we stop ill express Ifboro', on d, even if lie heights his efforts. le shadows izes. The egion, and rest on a g to Centre loom up in lin, beyond 5ome, Tri- le junction hief dining he midst of tered elms, backed by the soft blue of the distant mountains. The main line ascends the valley of Balcer's River, between Mount Stinson on tiie ri),dil, and tlie Motiiit Carr range on the left. Passing Warren, a small but very interesting village, with numerous brooks and ,--/fy.= s«*''2r'' '*..^Zi^- r.-~ ,-,.^.,, ........ ■ '""^--•-••'£^:,;3i«r.^-^_ ,„»:i.- -4;.. *■'«:. vi-B:S- Blni'|.^y* Vl«w of th« Whit* Mountdnt, picturesque cascades in the vicinity, and with the massive form cf Moosilauke (to which stages run from this station) looming up on the right, and lesser mountains on the left, we soon reach Warren Summit, the highest point on the line, 1,063 feet above sea-level, and 150 miles from Boston. As the descent to the Connecticut Valley is commenced, the \'X 1:1 ■•■piUl^iuUIIIIMlLa 9tJ lkt)M ( TIY iO Sl'kl Ixild cliffs of Owl's Heud ure seen upon tlic ri^ht ; and lookiiix buckwurd, tin- lofty mountains remain in sijjht for several miles. The views alon^ the Connecticut Valley l)y Haverhill, Woodsville and Wells River, where connection is made with llie I'assumpsic and Connecticut Valley roads, are exceed- ingly pictures(jue. We pass through Hath, whence sta;;cs run to Swiftwater and other points up the Wild Ammonoosnc ; I.ishon, a town of 2,000 inhabitants and good hotels (for that matter, good hotels and excellent boardinji houses with very reasonable rates abound throughout this region); Littleton, a pretty town of .?,ooo people, whence stages run six miles to Franconia. in the valley south of Mount Agassiz. Five miles beyon; the Clouds, is printed soon after the arrival of every train. On the opposite side from the railway, one may descend the carriage road to the Glen House on the left, or into Tuckermans Ravine on the right, often finding snow arches still remaining in its wild recesses, uncon- scious of summer's coming. From Fabyans to Portland, the route is by the Portland & Ogdens- burg Railroad, passing through the Crawford Notch in "observation cars," open at the sides, and furnished with revolving seats, affording a pan- oramic view of scenery remarkable for beauty, variety and grandeur. The view from Mount Willard at the gate of the Notch, near Craw- ford's, TroUope declared to be unequaled in all the classic Rhine- land, and Bayard Taylor that " It can not be surpassed in Switzerland." Near by are Hitchcock's Flume, Saco, Ethan's and Howe's ponds, Gibbs', Ripley's and Arethusa Falls and Beecher's Cascades. Silver Cascade and Flume Cascade leap down the sides of Mount Webster, and all the way down ths valley of the upper Saco River are vistas of great beauty and picturesqueness. At Glen . Station, connection is made with the stage I'ne for the Glen House up Ellis River Valley, and through Pinkham Notch. This will be found a delightful drive, and indeed, through- out this whole region the traveler will find the old-fashioned stage coach penetrating the mountain fastnesses where the iron horse has not yet ventured, and where nature 'u found wearing her mos; winning as well as her wildest aspects. Seven miles beyond Jackson, on 'SSL THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 99 grade of mstantly ;d much te state- detailed [efferson, Monroe, distance, itain is a on of the i/ this road, a path leads to the Glen Ellis Falls, quite near the road, and a little farther on is the entrance to the Crystal Cascade. The former, one of the loveliest cascades in the entire region, sildes twenty feet over the cliff at a sharp angle, and then plunges sixty feet into a dark pool. The latter, "an inverted liquid plume," eighty feet high, is near the mouth of Tuckerman's Ra- vine, and is best seen not from its foot, but from a high, moss-covered bank opposite. Two miles from the Glen House, on the same road, are a series of picturesque cas- cades called Thompson's Falls, from the upper one of which a most magnificent view is obtained of Mount Washington and Tucker- man's Ravine. North Con- way, thirty-one miles from Fabyans, is a village of many attractions and great popu- larity, in the lovely intervales near Kearsarge Mountain, from the easily attained summit of which magnificent and extensive views are obtained. Passing down the smiling valley of the Saco, and through Fryeburg, we skirt the wooded shore and sandy beach of Sebago Lake, and soon reach Portland, — <•* « * IK {jig beautiful town That is seated by the sea ; " — ninety-one miles from Fabyans, where we may take steamer or rail for Old Orchard beach, Mount Desert and Bar Harbor, Eastport, and other resorts on the coast of Maine and the maritime Provinces. Through Crawford Notch. aco, Ethan's ades. Silver he way down 2SS. At Glen River Valley, eed, through- netrating the iture is found d Jackson, on ^ ft LI jl.lJUIlliiiMHIJ .edition m search of the Golden Fleece, there was no question of comfort about their voyage. It was a travel as all travel was in those early days, full of discomfort and hardship, to which all manly muscles were inured. Indeed, luxury, and even the most primitive degree of com ort, was con- Tidered feminine or effeminate. The idea of luxury found its highest reahzat.on m the picture of Cleopatra in her gilded barge with perfumed silken sails descending the current of the Nile But this little noon-day or evening jaunt was no voyage or travel he r lation of voyagers, from Zenophon and Marco Polo down to Sir John Mandev.lle and m ch more modern days-even to those o, the indomitable Thomas Stevens, tell us ow closely associated were ,.a,„ and ,,.»,V-worW, labor, toil, with 'esi, both in material ami workmanship. A Wagner palace sleeping car is subjected to greater strain and wear than any other piece of cabinet making, and consequently nothing but the best will stand the test. The demand is not merely for a good article, but in all ca.ses for the very best that can be made or bought, and this is justly deemed to be the surest econom in the end. Not a piece of oak or mahogany, of iron or steel, of glass or of rubber, not a piece of Lyons velvet or silk, of Irish linen, nor a blanket of Australian or Californian wool, but must pass the severest inspection. The result is that in strength, combining solidity and elasticity of construction, in beauty of decoration, in perfection of finish and of furnishing, the Wagner cars are unequaled. Nothing is more strongly marked than the perfection of taste that characterizes all the designs and de- corations. The old days of vulgar roccoco and over-ornamentation are past, never to return. Materials are rich. ^Examination m.akes it evident that no expense has been spared. But colors are soft and harmonious, gilding is conspicuous only by its absence, the carving is hand work, and everything bears the unosten- tatious imprint of a thoroughly artistic hand. Besides the new cars now being rapidly turned out, large numbers of old cars — sleeping, parlor, buffet, din- ing, and special, are being constantly repaired and leave the shops, as a rule, with all the new improvements. Prominent among these is the vesti- buled platform, an invention long in use on the postal cars, but newly applied with all the brilliancy of cut glass and glitter of plate, to the Wagner palace cars and the new Michigan Central coaches. The steel frames for these, which give the needed strength, are not cast, but are cut out from rolled plates, in which there is no " weakest spot to stan' the strain." These vestibules, with doors opening upon the steps and lighted by night with the soft radiance of electricity, form a richly carpeted connection between the cars, so that a child may safely play or a lady safely pass from one end of the train to the other without danger of being violently blown to the ground or suffering discomfort from the inclemency of the weather or the derangement of the toilet. The train is, in fact, practically a series of apartments en suite, suitable for the Interior of the Dining Ctr. mm 104 FROM CITY TO SURF. entertainment of a large household with varied tastes, perfectly furnished, brilliantly lighted, thoroughly heated and admirably ventilated, and lull of ingenious devices that promote the comfort and enjoyment of the occupants. _ When the experienced traveler has slept the sleep of the innocent and the just, has read the morning papers, the latest novel, the new magazine or some standard work from the well-chosen library on board, has written his letters and telegrams, has smoked his cigars and chatted with his fellow travelers, he invariably seeks the height of his day's enjoyment in the dining car. The Michigan Central was the pioneer Eastern dining car line, and has always enjoyed the highest reputation for the quality of its cuisine and the character of its service. The managers and the commissary of the Wagner company thoroughly comprehend the wide difference between feeding and dining. The menu, though ample, is not overloaded and crowded by a wilderness of dishes through which the traveler wanders in unsuccessful search for the palatable, but the viands are choice, embracing the luxuries of the best markets, prepared by an experienced (hef and served by deft-handed waiters upon dainty china and snowy linen in the most tempting style. Nothing is wanting to the enjoyment of the most fastidious as he leisurely discusses the successive courses, or sips his well-selected wine, glancing from time to time at the pleasing scenery that glides swiftly by the broad plate-glass window, until Serenely full, the epicure shall say, "Fate cannot harm me, I have dined to-day." n ly lighted, ; promote e just, has lard work IS smoked ;ht of his r Eastern ility of its iry of the eding and derness of jle, but the xperienced 1 the most ious as he r from time ndow, until 'Phe grunswick Boston's Grandi'-st Hoii:l. American Plan. HAHXES &-^DL'XA'L£E, Propricton. o I* *= I S ■& 1 1. 1^ CI European' Plan ^he \/ictoria, I ■a 1* M e at o w •^ a . «»■ |: •II I o I Boston, Mass. BARNES A DUNKLEE, Proprietors. -) AI.80 (- UfvfAl 13rkn«kmah Amherat station, >'ew Hampaliire, 48 milua from Bo>. m l"*^- ^■fV'V"-!.^' I"-'.**" TXX Great Four Track Route. fsjew York (^entral .A.lT'D Hudson River R R. THE ROUTE OF THE "Fast Hail''-^ ^ AND THE FAMOUS ** Niagara Falls Route." Two of the four tracks are dovoted excluelvely to PassetiRer Trains. Thie, In connection with the easy grades, light curves, and superior con- struction, makes the New York Central and Hudson River Railroad THE aAFBST, QUIOKIST, AND MOST OOMFORTA BLKROUTI BETWMN New York or Boston and the West. The NIacara Tall* Ronte ts oyer the Wew Torli Central 4k Hudaon Blver Katlroad In connection with the Mlohlnn Central Hauroad. croaains Nlacara Slyer on the celebrated Cantilever Brldee within a few hundred yarda of the Falla. All tralna atop five nilnutea at Falla View ataUon. at the verae of the great cata- act, and in full view of the raplda iuat above the Valla. All trains airWe at and depart fromtheOrancl Central Station, Sew Yorki the lui'tce.t and Bneat Hallway Station In America. tM£M*t ttn»»MM*0M0f*0****' New Wagner Sleeping Cars Bun regularly to and from NBW YORK AND BOSTON, And make direct connection to and ft-om Buffalo, Cleveland, St. Paul, Niagara Falls, Cincinnati, Manitoba, Toronto, Indianapolis, Denver, Detroit, St. Louis, Texas, Portland, Salt Lake, Kansas City, San Francisco, etc. For Time Tablee or information call on nearest ., ^ Ticket AgentH of the BoMton tt Albany, New • .•;> York Central, the Michlsan Central, or ad- • -Jlm.^ dre»B M. G. ROACH. HENRY MONETT. Ota'l lait'a FtM. Agent, Oea'l Fhi. Afeat, No. «i:i Broadway. New York Citj. Graad Central ■tatlon J»t»flh' TH« WOBI.D-FAMBD IHTOSON BIV»U ■ liiiiiMiai ■> ' THE '•j?t»«V* ' Boston Sc A lbany •^f^'?^' *»V"i. IS THE Only Double Track Route ■ KTWCCN NEWENSLAND AND THE WEST. It Ih well known to t)ii> irnTrllnK pnhlle anronil>liilnc >ll tlii^ €i>nifecially in hotclH and otluT pub- lic biiildingx. When iv piece Is torn ofif, the roll Hwingg against the cutter back of the roll, return- ing to its position ready for the next operation, as shown in the cut. The lengths are measured by the fixture, and every piece must be torn off Bcparatr'y. Morgan Envelope Company, Sold by Druggists and Stationers. SPRINGFIELD, MASS. Miiittii,! ii I .nwm 17 E. C. CI,A.RK. rre^ilcni. NV. F. llUKOliN, Vlce-rresident. J. J, SI,OCUM, Be 1:1. 1. IS, rnnxuivr. ALliEKT J, riTKJX, Suft. ny ler S chenectad y Locomotive Works, SCHENECTADY, N. Y. ~i"^;yjJS^ ^"-i' -" 1 ' ^^ wr . !* (0 Ok flCU 3 4 o . a* 10 3 U J w " Z ■ O « a .1 S k ■ ■■ • Of oE li D w p PI o 5 a. u z 1 i < Z O u ki T HE • WAYNE DETROIT, MICH. An Elegant New Hotel of 200 Rooms. Opened December ist, 1887. Situated Directly Opposite the Main Entrance of the Michigan Central Passenger Depot, from which Baggage is taken to and from without e'xtra charge. PRICES: On the American Plan, $2.50 to $3.50 per Day. •• European Plan, $1.00 to $2.50 «' Rooms with Baths, 50c. Extra. W. P. F. MESERVE, Proprietor. The Clifton House, Niagara Ralls, n TANDS directly in front of the new Jubilee Park, and also faces the State Reservation O the situation of the hotel being acknowledged the finest at Niagara. The Clifton has the e^c/usive advantage of being the only hotel from all apartments and every veranda of which there is a full and unobstructed view of the Falls. This is a fact of importance to all visitors. The view is grand in its extent and beauty, embracing, as it does, the islands, rapids and surrounding country for miles. The highest National and State sanitary and medical authorities endorse Niagara as a health resort. The air is invigorating and pure, the climate salubrious, and in summer the temperature is kept delightfully cool from the spray of the Falls The Clifton House is celebrated for its quiet elegance and many features of comfort and convenience. The apartments, en suite or single, are exceptionailv attractive in appointments, and the cuisine, service and attendance, superior in all respects. Address, by mail or telegraph, GEORGE M. COLBURN, Niagara Kails, N. Y. "fhe Niagara Buffalo, N. Y. THIS NEW and elegant Hotel, the finest in the City, and one of the I finest in the United States, with all modern improvements, situated in the resident part of the city, and commands fine views of Lake Erie and the Niagara River. Spacious verandas are in front and rear. Those in the rear are connected with a beautiful Conservatory, well stocked with rare plant, and flowers. The house is conducted in a strictly first-lass manner. HENRY F. ROESSER, Manager. •«*/ s^d- l one of the Its, situated vs of Lake :he rear are rare plants Fine PNoor Corner of Superior and Bond Streets, one block from Public Square, in the most desirable part of the city, and one of the most perfect and comfortable Hotels in the country. American Plan, $3.00 to $5.00 per day. European Plan, $1 .00 to $2.50 per day^ J^otel J^ichelieu. Soon after the opening of the Hotel Richelieu, the New York World, after a careful inspection of it, said: THE Proprietors, in opening tin* t)eautiful house to tlie public, did more than inaugurate an inn — thejr dedicated a home. There is not one room, from the lowest to the topmost floor, that is not like a beau- tiful apartment in a sumptuous house. The walls are decorated with the finest works of art, the beds are as delicious resting places and as daintily equipped as any couch of rest in the palace of a mi.lionaire. There are no frayed and dusty carpets, no worn and threadbare upholstery, no spreads and blankets eloquent with the record of the departed ; everything is fresh and sweet, alike appealing to physical enjoyment and aesthetic taste. It has been left to the proprietors to strike the key-note of a new departure in hotel living. One can, in " Thb Richbueu," combine the ease of boarding with the comfort and content of a well-ordered and beautiful home. Every part or portion of the entire house carries with it the one idea of comfort and contentment, and the first exclamation of its visitors has invariably been, "Oh! this does not seem like a hotel, it has more the appear- ance of an elegant home." The proprietors have certainly struck the right chord grandly, and persons visiting Chicago who seek comfort and enjoyment away from noise, and free from everything objectionable to the best society, should not fail to give " The Richelieu " a trial, where they will be sure to receive the very l>est of care and attention. Michigan Avenue Boulevard, H. V. BEMIS. O tilOAQO* A. S. OAOB. ^./ :i^ iS a careful an ton — they lot like a beau- the beds are as and blankets iical enjoyment in hotel living. a well-ordered itment, and the lore the appear- cago who Kek iety, should not attention. A.S. OAOB. KIM AH fioinff East or Goinj2[ W('st, Who is unacquainted with the gcojjraphy «if the (-nuntry, will save himself much time, trouble and expense, and acquire a great deal of valuable information from a careful study of this map of the Chicago, ]\ailway. To and from all the flourishing towns and cities designated on its main lines and branches it is the only direct and best route. It also constitutes the true Middle Link in the chain of continuous trans-continental travel, extending West, Southwest or Northwest, via Chicago, to Pacific Coast Points ana intervening localities, and in corresponding opposite directions. ^^d^^ PACiriQ Daily Fast Limited Express Trains, SAVING FIVE HOURS BETWEEN Council Bluffs, Kansas City, St. Joseph and Chicago. Close connections at those points to Union Depots with corresponding Fast Trains, reducing the distance between Chicago and San Francisco and Portland, Oregon, to 87 HOURS. California Excursions Daily. Round Trip Land Excursion and Tourist Tickets at greatly reduced rates. The Passenger Equipment of the entire system popularly known al The Great Rock Island Route (consistto^ of new and elegant Day Coaches, Dining Cars, Pullman Palace Sleeping Cars and Reclining Chair Cars), is incomparably excellent, fully realizing the most advanced ideas, methods and demands of modem railway travel. Via the '' Famous Albert Lea" To S^rit Lake, Minnetonka, Minnewaska, White Bear Lake, and all the Sum- mer Resorts, Watering Places, attractive Scenery, and Hunting and Fishing Grounds of Minnesota, Iowa, Lake Superior and the North and Northwest. Traverses the "Great Wheat and Dairy Belt," to and from Sioux Falls, Watertown and East Central Dakota. To all points in Southern Nebraska, Interior Kansas, Colorado, Texas, the Indian Territory and beyond, via St. Joseph and Kansas City, the CHICAGO, KANSAS & NEBRASKA RAILWAY (Rock Island Route), is the most speedy and direct. It courses through the "Golden Belt," comprising the richest lands of the continent. 'For Tickets, Time Tables, Maps, Land Folders, copies of Western Tiail, or desired information in regard to Rates, Routes, or Connections, apply to any Coupon Ticket Agent in the United States or Canada, or address ^ E. ST. JOHN. Oeneml Manager, CHICAGO, ILL. E. A. HOLBROOK, Ucnernl Ticket and Paasenver Agent, CHicwa NICHi )K HDNDN ROUTE I lo*iiviiu.NiwAiiMriCiKMi y0^ PiinanPilaceCarRinle \i/ — )K IJ^ ^^«tun«y^ BETWEEN fto M MmMla, DMXfMrc SmH, Mm, ••>., AUm ■i O. ItOOIUIICI, OmI fiiimir AfMt, f hlcogo, Indianapolis and T ouis^/iIIb STRAINS lAOH WAY Q * « BETWEEN , • 4^ Chicagq^Louisvine. TOURIST TICKETS are on sale, in season, at all Coupon Ticket Offices in the West and Northwest, to Jacksonville and all Florida Winter Cities, via Chicago and the Monop Route, allowing choice of Pullman Car routes through either Louisville and Mammoth Cave, or Cincinnati and the Old Battle Fields. Send for a "Guide." City Ticket Office, y;^ Clark St. mong the Northern Lakes O OF Wisconsin, Minnesota, Iowa, Missouri and Dakota ARE HUNDREDS OF Delightful Places "•^o-^"- Pass the Summer Months In quiet rest and enjoyment, and return home at the end of the heated term completely rejuvenated. Each recurring season brings to OOOMOIWOWOO, WAUKESHA, BEAVER DAM, FROIITEHAO, OKOBOJt, HOTKL ST. LOUIS, LAKE IWIWNETOHKA, WHITE BEAR, EXCELSIOR SPRIMQS, and innumerable other charming localities with romantic names, thousands of our best people whose winter homes are on either side of Mason and Dixon's line Elegance and comfort at a moderate cost can be readily obtained. A list of SUMMER HOMES, with all necessary informalioo pertaining thereto, is being distributed by the Chicago, Milwaukee dc St Paul Railway, and will be sent FREE upon application by letter to ^ A. V. H. CARPENTER, fleneral Pass«M*r Agant. Mllwaukaa. Wis. EEN lie. upon Ticket LE and all 9 Route, ) either n and rk St. es Dakota NJTHS iletely II. HOTIL I MPS, whoM winter 9 coit can be reto, is being »yi Mllwauku.Wls. Michigan CENTgAL D GONN EGTIONS WAONER PALACE SLEEPING CARS THROUGH WITHOUT CHANCE Chicago to Buffalo, New York, Boston and the East, via New York Central and Boston * Albany BaUroads ; St. Louis to Buffalo, New York, Boston and the East, via Wabaah, Klchi«an Central and West Bhora BaUroada: OSaOAOO TO TOBOMTO, yla Canadian Faolflo Bailway. The Fairy Isle ^of Mackinac, LYING in the northern part of Lake Huron, near the Straits of Mackinac, has, by J reason of its remarkable natural beauty and wonderful salubrity of its atmosphere, been reserved by the United States Government as a National^ Park. It is also the centre of some of the finest fishing and hunting grounds in the country. All this is described and illustrated with considerable detail in a new book with the above title, including some attractive sketches on the subject of Grayling Fishing and Deer Hunting in Northern Michigan. This book will be sent to any address, on receipt of ten cents, by O. W. RUGGLES, General Passenger and Ticlcet Agent, /V llCHIGAN ( TENTRAL teS5!S3SI7^'^ ("The Mackinac Route.") CHICAGO, ILL. f4 IT" prom Sea to Sea. ^ THH Chicago •« North-Western Railway F'ORMS an important portion of the American trans-continental routes between the Pacific and the Atlantic. Passing through the most enchanting scenery and the richest agricultural and manufacturing regions, it gives a panoramic view of the wealth, industry and grandeur of the great West. The carefully arranged Train Service of the North-Western, making close and sure connections with trains of other lines; its superb equipment of Dining Cars, Sleeping Cars and Day Coaches, to- gether with all of the progressive, unique and popular modern ideas of service, combine to place it in the front rank among the railroads of the world. For full information as to points reached, rates of fare, etc., apply at any railroad ticket office, or to the General Passenger Agent Chicago & North- Western Railway, Chicago. J. M WHITMAN. General Manager. H. C. WICKER. Traffic Manager. E. P. WILSON, Gen. Pass. Agent n srican c and mting turing realth, >f the actions ent of es, to- opular in the , rates ;, or to ^ORTH- )ON, Pass. Agent Brown Brothers &f Co, New York, Philadelphia, Boston, AND Alexa ler Brown & Sons, ■ALTIMORE. Members of the New York, Philadelphia and Baltimore Stock Exchange. Execute Orders for all Investment Securities, Receive Accounts of Banks, Bankers, Corporations, and Firms on favorable terms. ^uy and Bell J3ilU of ^xcJ^ange On Great Britain and Ireland, Prance, Germany, Belgium, Holland, Switzerland, Norway, Denmark, Sweden, Aus- tralia, St. Thomas, St Croix, and British West Indies. Issue -Ccmmerxial and travelers' -Credits In Sterling, available in any part of the World; in Francs, for use in Martinique and Guadaloupe; and in Dollars, for use in this country, Canada, Mexico, and the West Indies. Make Telegraptfic Transfers of Money Between this Country, Europe, and the British and Danish West Indies. Make -Collections of grafts Drawn abroad on all points in the United States and Canada, and of Drafts drawn in the United States on foreign countries. It^eir Jjondon ^ouse, Messrs. Brown, Shipley & Co., receive accounts of American Banks, Firms, and Individuals, upon favorable terms. uverpooi. Brown, Shipley & Co. United States GoTernment Financial Agents in England. London. s- ' "1